/ ^s 014 051 204 7 Conservation Resources Lig-Free® Tvoe I /- How to Paint DIRECTIONS For Applying Paint and Varnish With Best Results Copyright By Sears, Roebuck & Co. Chicago, 111. A7134 DON'T ALLOW^ YOUR PROPERTY TO RUN DOW^N OONGRESS I OCT 21 1904 nfM Paint is as important as fire insurance. A building may never burn, but unless constantly protected by paint it will surely decay. Decay is slow burning. Paint is insurance against decay. As, thjs book is merely intended to give instructions to the users of our Ready 'Mixed Paints and other materials mentioned in same, we have not stated. ^hy thing about prices. We kindly request those interested in our prices on paint and painting material to refer to our General Catalogue, Paint Color Sample Book or Special Price List which will be mailed free on application. As we state on another page of this book, you will find -that any article in this line can be purchased from us at a Very small advance over the actual cost of manufacturing. Here are a few prices as evidence of our ability to save you money on painting material. Seroco Ready Mixed House Paint, guaranteed for five years, at from 85 to 98 cents per gallon, according to the size of the package. Seroco Ready Mixed Barn, Roof and Fence Paint, guaranteed for five years, at from 50 to 65 cents per gallon, according to the size of the package. For complete price list, refer to our General Catalogue or to our Paint Color Sample Book, either of which we will gladly send you free on request. HOW TO APPLY SEROCO HOUSE PAINT THE WEATHER. A dry day should be selected for painting if in any way convenient, ho\ve\ er, paint should not be applied when the thermometer regis- ters below 50 degrees, as good painting cannot be done when the paint is chilled. This thickens it and makes it impossible to do a good job, as the coat will be hea\-y and streaked. THE SURFACE. The surface to be painted must be thoroughly dry and free from dirt and loose parti- cles of paint. This is \-ery important, for the ])esX pamt will not wear when applied on surfaces in poor con- dition. Dampness is another enemy of paint. The surface must be thoroughly dry, otherwise it is a waste of time and money to apply paint over it. In many cases paint is applied on a seemingly dry surface, but on investigation it is found that the wood is water soaked and dry only to a depth of about 3^ of an inch. When the sun beats on the surface, a vapor is formed which must find an outlet somewhere and naturally forces its way through the paint, which, as you may have seen, causes the paint to blister and then peel. Use a painter's duster for general dusting, a scraper, putty knife or wire brush for removing loose paint. A wire brush is especially recommended for cleaning iron, brick and stone and a very handy tool for removing rust off of all iron work. The above articles can be purchased for very little money. (See quotations in general catalogue and color saniple book). FIRST COAT OR PRIMING. The proper application of the priming coat is very important and generally too little attention is given to this work. For new work (a surface that has never been painted before), use a mixture of one gallon of boiled linseed oil and one gallon of Seroco Mixed Paint, stir thoroughly, then apply, rubbing it out well (brush it out well). The priming coat should not be heavy, but plenty should be put on and brushed out well; herein lies the secret of successful painting. On old painted surfaces, use a mixture of 3^ gallon of boiled linseed oil to every gallon of Seroco Mixed Paint and apply in the same manner as aljo\-e. After the priming coat has been put on, putty up all nail heads and cracks. This should be done with a putty knife, as puttying with the fingers does not fill the holes well. SECOND COAT. From four to six days should be allowed for first coat to dry. The paint for second coat requires no thinning and should be applied as you receive it, that is in its natural thickness. Occasionally when the bottom of the can or kit is reached the paint is found to be very thick, this is caused by its not being properly stirred at the beginning of the painting. In such cases add sufficient boiled linseed oil to bring it to the consistency so it will again work easily under the brush. For inside work, where our inside white is used, thin with turpentine if required. LINSEED OIL. Never use raw linseed oil for thinning ready mixed paints or mixing your own paints unless you are thoroughly familiar with the handling of same. Raw linseed oil requires a dryer, while boiled oil will dry without the addi- tion of a dryer. It is an easy matter to add the dryer, but you may use too much, which will result in the paint cracking and then peel off, and again, if too little is used, the paint may not dry. Be sure that the oil you are using is absolutely pure as there is nothing on the market just as good. It is important that the oil be pure as any adulteration may spoil the entire job. It is difficult to detect the adulteration, therefore purchase your oil from a reliable dealer or send to VIS for linseed oil. We purchase direct from the mantifacturers and the manufac- turer's guarantee of purity is stenciled on every barrel of linseed oil and when ordered in full barrels, it will be shipped in the original package as received from the manufacturers and not tampered with in any way. SEROCO BARN, ROOF AND FENCE PAINT. This paint is especially recommended for barns, roofs, fences, and all out build- ings and when properly applied, it will wear many years. It is one of the best preserva- tives and will double the life of your build- ings. We do not select trimming colors, as nearly every color will harmonize with the eight' shades in which we furnish it. Where a white or any light color for trimming is desired, we suggest that our customers purchase the Seroco House Paint for trimming, as mineral paint cannot be made in light colors. There is absolutely nothing poisonous in the above paint and where rainwater is used for drinking purposes there need be no apprehension. When ready to use this paint, if in a can, cut out the entire top; if a kit or barrel, remove the head or cover. The top must be removed entirely otherwise the paint cannot be properly stirred. The oil will be found on the top and the pigments on the bottom, which is quite natural. Pour off all of the oil, then stir thoroughly, gradually adding the oil which you have previously poured off. After this is done the paint is ready for use. Apply with a flat paint or wall brush, 4 inches or over in width. Follow directions as given under the heading, Seroco House Paint. For roofs, apply in the same manner as above stated. SEROCO GRAPHITE-CREOSOTE MINERAL PAINT. Adapted for barns, roofs, etc., but is especially recommended for roofs and all work which is subjected to continued moisture, svich as timbers of buildings close to or partially under the ground, etc. Graphite is the most durable pig- ment, while creosote has long been known as the best wood preservative and will positively prevent decay. Apply as per directions given for Seroco Barn, Roof and Fence Paint. SEROCO SHINGLE STAIN. This is not a paint, but is a thin liquid which stains and preserves shingles and should be used as such only. For a shingle preservati\'e there is nothing that excels a good shingle stain. Shingle stain will not cover as much surface as paint, owing to its penetrating qualities, and where applied with a brush, a gallon will cover about 200 square feet. NEW SHINGLES should be dipped in the stain before shingling; in this way both sides are covered and shingles thus treated wnll never rot or warp and will double the life of same. Get an open vessel, pour in the stain, then dip the shingles in the stain and immediately take out, lay aside and pro- ceed with the next until all of the shingles have been dipped. This can be done rapidly and several hundred shingles can be dipped in a short time. ON OLD ROOFS, apply with a brush as you would paint, but our Barn and Roof or Seroco Graphite- Creosote Paints are recommended for old roofs, as a better finish is obtained and where one side only of the shingles are covered, our Barn and Rooi or Seroco Graphite-Creosote Paints will preserve as well. HOW TO PAINT INTERIORS OF HOUSES. INTERIOR PAINT FOR WALLS, WOODWORK, ETC. Any of the shades of Seroco House Paint can be used for inside painting and make an excellent paint for this pur- pose, excepting white of which we make a special paint for & ^^S_| ^ ^l^ ^ J inside use cahed "Inside White." Inside woodwork, es- ^ f^^rff«,.ni7 I f pecially in the kitchen, is more or less greasy, caused by the steam and vapor from cooking. Wash the woodwork thoroughly with a solution of sal-soda and warm water, about a handful to a half bucket of water, a little soap can be used in connection with same. When dry apply the paint with a flat wall or round paint brush. For painting win- dow sash use a No. 4 or 6 sash tool. PLASTERED WALLS, which have been white washed or calcimined, should first be washed with warm water to remove the white wash or calcimine. In this case use a wall scraper and scrape while wet. When thoroughly dry (allow about twenty-four hours for drying), apply one coat of Seroco Liquid Wood Filler (one gallon of this filler will cover about 300 square feet one coat), which will dry in twelve hours, then apply the paint. For the first coat thin the paint with tur- pentine, in the proportion of one quart turpentine to one gallon of paint. For the second coat apply the paint in its natural thickness ; if too thick thin with tur- pentine. Should the white wash or calcimine be very hard and there is no evi- dence of peeling, the wood filler can be applied over it without washing and no trouble experienced, but should there be the slightest evidence of loose white wash, a satisfactory job cannot be had without removing the coating by washing and scraping, as above explained. Before applying the filler, fill all cracks and holes with plaster of paris ; this is prepared by mixing the dry powder with water to the consistency of putty. Use at once when prepared, as it will harden in a few moments. If ceiling is to be painted do this first, then begin painting at the top in one corner of the wall and work downward. HOW TO APPLY SEROCO GLOSS ENAMEL. While Seroco Ready Mixed Paint is highly recommended for interior painting, those wishing a very high enameled finish, we can recommend the Seroco Gloss Enamel as being superior to anything similar on the market. When applied according to directions, which are very simple, you will have a hard, glossy and indestructible surface and it can be clean- ed at any time with cold water without injuring the finish. This material does not work as freely as the Seroco Mixed Paints, but with a little attention anyone can do a perfect job. It is especially desirable for bath rooms, kitchens, din- ing rooms and bed rooms, where a sanitary wall coating, which will • not spot or be injured in anyway by coming in contact with water, is wanted. DIRECTIONS. The woodwork and walls are prepared in the same manner as directed for Seroco Ready Mixed Paint. (See page 1.) When the surface is ready for painting, remove the entire top of the can and stir the enamel. ONE GALLON SEROCO IGLOSS 1 Then with a 2 or 23^-inch varnish brush apply the enamel, commencing at the top and work downwards. Spread on an even coat and not too sparingly; put on plenty of it, but not enough to cause it to run. Do not brush out as you would in painting; as few strokes as possible will make a better finish. Should the enamel be ver}^ thick, thin Avith turpentine, but do not add more than is necessary. One gallon of Seroco Gloss Enamel will cover about 200 square feet, two coats. For a first class job two coats will haA'c to be applied. Allow twent}^- four hours for first coat to dry before applying the second coat. HOUSEHOLD ENAMEL. This enamel is a very fine article and many a piece of old furnitue can be made to look like new with two coats of enamel. It can be applied on everything and anything with pleasing results; any kind of furniture, iron beds, shelves, wicker work, baby carriages, clocks, mantels, ■fr~~-m:im c:r^-=^ir«»iriiiiH ^°3'^' '^^'^- One-half pint can will cover an ordinary iron I I ''ilj^^^i I f^n O ^^ ^^ ^^-""^ ^''^■^^ change the appearance wonderfully. The ^ Mf/lli\\\'^\\KW^ article to be painted should be washed free from grease. If applied o\-er a ground of the same color, one coat will be found sufficient, but if applied o\'er another color, two coats will be necessary. Apply with a flat varnish brush. A good brush will do the best work. Apply an even coat but do not brush out, as you would house paint. The enamel should be applied the same as varnish; sufficient should be put on, but not enough to make it run. If necessary to thin the enamel, use turpentine only. SCREEN ENAMEL. Screens should be painted every year, otherwise the^F will appear shabby. The work is simple and the time well spent. Dust the screens, then apply the enamel with a flat bristle varnish brush. A little rust will do no harm, but if very rusty, brush with a whisk broom. This enamel can be used on the woodwork of the screens as well as the screen. STOVE PIPE ENAMEL. Old rusty stove pipe can be made to look like the expensive japanned pipe by applying one coat of Seroco Stove Pipe Enamel. If very greasy, wash with sal-soda and water. Rust can be re- moved with a wire brush or sandpaper; a little rust, however, will do no harm. The pipes should be cold when applied ; in about twelve hours they can be used. At first a little smoke will arise and an odor of burning paint will be noticeable, but this will disappear in a short time. Steel ranges and all iron can be renewed by a coat of Seroco Stove Pipe Enamel. ALUMINUM ENAMEL. iitensils The most durable Silver Aluminum Enamel for any inside and outside dec- orations. It will not turn black and is weatherproof. This material is now being extensively used by the United States government on mail boxes, etc. It can be applied on anything with satisfactor}^ results, such as statuary, clocks, bric-a-brac, picture frames, iron railings or any iron work either inside or exposed to the weather. As with all painting the surface must be clean and free from grease. Apply with a flat camel's hair mottling or color brush (no other brush will do), stir frequently, as the material settles quickly. Will dry in four hours. RADIATOR ENAMEL. A hard drying glossy enamel which when dry is not affected by heat or water. It is made in sex'eral shades and the radi- ators can be painted to harmonize with the surroundings. Radiators are not very artistic, but the appearance can be changed wonderfully by a coat or two of Radiator Enamel. A flat varnish brush should be used for all shades excepting alum- inum and gold, which should be applied with a flat camel's hair mottling or color brush. The enamel is ready to be applied. Thin with turpentine if too thick, excepting aluminum and gold shades. The radiators should first be cleaned and free from grease; if very rusty, use a steel wire brush for removing the rust ; this brush will remove rust in an instant. Apply the enamel when the radiator is cold; after twelve hours, steam or water, as the case may be, can be turned on. At first a little smoke may arise from the radiator, but this will only be for a few moments, for when thoroughly baked the smoke and odor will dis- appear. This enamel can be used for all steam heated surfaces such as boilers, hot water heaters, etc. BATH TUB ENAMEL. A special white enamel for bath tubs. By its use an old iron or zinc bath tub can be made to look like new. The best of care should be taken when preparing the surface, as bath tubs are more or less greasy and when not thoroughly cleaned the enamel will peel. Give the bath tub a thorough scrubbing with a solution of sal-soda and warm water When dr}' sandpaper the surface lightly, then apply a coat of the enamel with a fiat varnish brush, allow about two days for this to dry, then sandpaper again until all gloss has disappeared, when the second or finishing coat can be put on. days for second coat to dry, when the tub will be ready for use. Allow four SEROCO FLOOR PAINT. Considerable experimenting has been done in order to make a floor paint that would dry hard and still retain suflEi- cient elasticity that when subjected to constant foot friction it will withstand the friction and not show scratches. Ex- perience has taught us that floor paints must be made very thin in order to accomplish the results desired. Beware of heavy floor paints, they will not endure the wear. For example, if a heavy coat of paint is applied, drying com- mences at once and the top of the coat dries first, which is quite natural. Now, if you were to examine it under a magnifying glass, you will find that the paint next to the wood is still soft and as the air is excluded, on account of the top being dry, it would require at least thirty days for it to become thoroughly hard. The Seroco Floor Paints are thin and will dry hard in twenty-four hours, also one gallon will cover as much surface, three coats, as the ordinary floor paints would cover with only two coats. Two coats will generally be found sufficient but we advise three coats, which insures a solid surface. HOW TO APPLY SEROCO FLOOR PAINT. OLD FLOORS, which have been painted, should be scrubbed with soap and water. Allow from eight to twelve hours for floor to dry, when the first coat of paint can be put on. Allow twenty-four hours for each coat of paint to dry. On new floors apply a coat of liquid^ wood filler before painting ; the wood filler will dry in eight hours, when the first coat of paint can be applied. Apply with a flat wall brush, 3 or 33^ inches wide. Thin with turpentine. Some parts of the floor receive more wear than others. For this reason it is advisable to touch up same occasionally. Do this before the paint wears through to the wood and you will always have a neat and solid floor. The Seroco Floor Paints can be vised on chairs, benches, toys or any furniture and leave a hard, nrn-sticky surface. PORCH FLOORS or any floors inside and outside should be painted with Seroco Floor Paints. SEROCO FLOOR COLOR VARNISH. This material is something new in a floor finish as it stains and \-arnishes in one operation and is meeting with such success that the very same material is commanding high prices sold under different manufacturers' brands. Two coats will make a hard surface which will wear and look well a long time. Dark oak or walnut will conceal all discolorations in an old floor. It is superior to anything in varnishing around rugs for you can select a color that will har- monize with the rug. Can be used on soft wood floors as well as hardwood and can be made to look like hardwood with A-ery little labor or expense. DIRECTIONS. Treat all new hardwood floors with Seroco Paste Wood Filler (see directions for paste wood filler on page 9). After the filler is dry sand- paper with No. Y2 sandpaper or No. 1 steel wool (steel wool will work better and quicker), remove all dust and apply the Seroco Floor Color Varnish to the whole floor. After twenty-four hours apply the second coat. Should there be very large cracks in the floor, fill them with Seroco Crack Filler, using a putty knife; the crack filler will dry in thirty-six hours, when it should be sand- papered to a smooth finish. NEW SOFT WOOD FLOORS require no filler and the Seroco Floor Color Varnish can be applied without preparing the surface. It is best, however, to put on one coat of yellow floor paint before applying the floor color varnish. This will give it a better finish and any color can be applied over it. OLD PAINTED FLOORS. Apply one coat of yellow floor paint, allow twenty-four hours to dry, then apply the floor color ^•arnish in the same inanner as above. Should the old paint be very uneven, remove it with paint and var- nish remover; this material will soften the paint in an instant and same can then be scraped off with a 3-inch scraper. Use a damp cloth for cleaning floors finished with Seroco Floor Color Var- nish and rub dry with a dry cloth; put the cloth over a broom, as this will make the work easier. Never use any alkaline preparations, soap or ammonia. If there is any grease on the floor, remove it with a soft cloth dampened with kerosene and wipe dry with another cloth. SEROCO FLOOR OIL. A special preparation for floors of residences and stores. Kitchen or dining room floors, which are very much used, will look better and be kept clean with less labor when oiled occasionally. It brings out the natural color of the wood and is less expensive than other floor finishes. It is a sanitary preparation, as all dust coming in contact with the floor becomes lifeless and when the floor oil is used no dust is raised when sweeping. As only a small quantity is required and so very easily applied, we advise that the floor be oiled once a month, as then no dirt will penetrate the w^ood and floors can be kept neat and clean without employing a scrub brush. DIRECTIONS. Pour a small quantity in a shallow dish or pie plate, then saturate a woolen cloth with the oil, wring out the surplus and proceed to oil the floor by wiping it in the same manner as when washing the floor SEROCO PREPARED FLOOR WAX. Hardwood floors can be brought to a beautiful polish by using the Seroco Prepared Floor Wax. Prepared floor wax for hard- wood floors is becoming more popular e\'ery day. FOR OAK, MAPLE, BIRCH, BEECH and all other hardwoods apply a coat of Seroco Paste Wood Filler (see directions for paste wood filler on page 0). Allow at least tweh'e hours for filler to thoroughly harden after rubbing off, then with a cloth apply a thin coat of Seroco Prepared Floor Wax and polish with a dry cloth. After two hours apply the second coat and polish in the same manner; it is then finished. FOR PINE AND FIR FLOORS apply one coat of oak or mahogany floor color varnish, allow thirty-six hours for varnish to harden, then apply two coats of floor wax as directed for hardwood floors. This material cannot be used on floors that have been oiled unless the floor is first scraped. SEROCO VARNISH STAIN. This material is principally used for renovating old fur- niture and woodwork and gives excellent satisfaction when used for the purpose intended. It can be used on new wood- work where a quick finish is essential, but it will not make as good a finish on new work as the oil stain and varnish. An old piece of furniture, which is considerably marred and worn, can be renewed by a coat of varnish stain. In selecting a color, it is necessary that the color selected is of a similar shade as the old finish; for instance, a piece of furniture fin- ished in mahogany cannot be refinished in light oak by apply- ing a light oak varnish stain. The varnish stain in this case will have to be of a dark color, either mahogany or walnut. To finish a dark piece of furniture in oak, first apply two coats of yellow floor paint ; after the paint is dry, apply the varnish stain with a \-arnish brush. Fur- niture or woodwork, which is of a light color, can be refinished in a darker shade without painting by simply applying the varnish stain. Portions of the old finish will show through the stain "which will give it the grained effect. SEROCO OIL STAIN. A thin liquid for staining new woods and is made in several natural wood colors. This material is used on new wood only which has not been finished and cannot be applied over painted or varnished surfaces. It should not be used as a paint, as it does not cover the wood, it simply penetrates the wood and dries perfectly flat and is finished by a coat or two of varnish being applied over it. Soft or hard pine interior woodwork is usually stained and then finished with two coats of light hard oil finish or interior varnish. Oak is varnished without staining, but some stain it with a light oak stain which gives the surface a better color. As before explained, this material does not cover the wood but leaves the natural grain of the wood. Soft wood interior woodwork is usually grained, but a less expensive finish can be had by staining and then varnishing. This makes a fairly good finish and is preferred by many to the grained. Oil stain is used on new furniture and all new work to be finished in varnish. DIRECTIONS. For hard or soft pine woodwork. Clean off all dirt with sandpaper or steel wool (see page 9 for steel wool), then apply the stain with a flat varnish brush, 2 or 2i^nnches wide. A light coat is sufficient; allow until the next day for the stain to dry. Now prepare some putty and make it of the same color as the stained wood by mixing some of the stain with it. Putty up all nail holes and imperfections, which will be sufficiently dry the following day; now apply one coat of Seroco Liquid Wood Filler with a flat varnish brush (the brush used for staining will do). The filler will dry in twelve hours, when the first coat of varnish can be applied. Light hard oil finish is recommended but interior varnish can be used. One coat of varnish will make a fine finish, but two coats are recommended for durability. Use a new brush for the var- nish. (See full instructions below regarding varnishing.) FOR OAK AND OTHER HARDWOOD WOODWORK. Proceed in the same manner as directed for soft wood, but when ready to fill the wood use a paste wood filler, which is expressly made for hardwoods. (See page 9). Thin the filler with turpentine so it can be applied with a brush. Apply it as you would paint, putting on a heavy coat. Now, as soon as drying has commenced, which will be evident by the gloss disappearing, rub ofT with excelsior or a piece of burlap, rub ofT all of the svn"plus filler and after a few hours it will be ready for the varnish which you can then apply as directed for soft woods. VARNISHING. There is nothing that gives as much satisfaction as a coat of varnish. It is surprising what a wonderful transformation one coat of ^•arnish will make. Any one can do a good job of varnishing and, as the material can now be had at very low prices, it means a saving to you to give the furniture and woodwork a coat of varnish which will act as a preservative; the furniture and woodwork will last longer for it will receive better care. DIRECTIONS. The different varnishes are described which will enable you to select the kind best adapted for the work in hand. Keep tightly corked when not in use. Should the \-arnish be \'ery thick, thin with turpentine, but it is better to take care of the varnish, so it will not thicken, by keeping it corked, as ^■arnish will wear longer when used in its natural state. Clean brushes are necessary for good work, therefore, do not use old paint brushes or brushes that have been soaked in oil. Varnish brushes can be had for so little money that It docs not pay to use an old brush. Varnish should not be brushed out as with paint, bvit should be laid on, that is, spread on a hea\'y coat and e\'en it with as few strokes with the brush as is possible. Of course, too hea\-y a coat will cause it to run and this must be avoided. For old varnished furniture, remove the gloss by rubbing it with pumice stone and water. Take finely powdered pumice stone and mix with water to a creamy paste and with a cloth dipped in the pumice stone give the surface a good rubbing. This is not intended to remove the old varnish, simply to remove the gloss. Wash with clear water and let dry, when it will be ready for the varnish as describe^l. SEROCO CRACK FILLER. A preparation for filling cracks in floors, furniture and wood- work. It is different from putty as it will not crack nor crumble; it dries very" hard, at the same time retaining sufficient elasticity to prevent it from cracking. Old shrunken floors can be made to look e\'en and neat with this preparation. DIRECTIONS. Remove the filler from the can and knead it as you would putty. Occasionally the oil in the crack filler will be found sep- arated from the solid substance; this oil must be worked in again bv kneading It can be appli^^d with the palm of the hand, but in most cases a putty knife will do better work. For dark floors and furniture, mix a small quantity of dry burnt umber with the crack filler and make it as dark as you like by adding more of the dry burnt umber. SEROCO PASTE WOOD FILLER. For filling the pores of hardwoods such as oak, maple, mahogany, ash, etc. All new woods should be filled before finishing, as then the \-arnish will not pen- etrate the wood but will remain on the surface. DIRECTIONS. Remove the substance from the can and place it in a larger can, then add turpentine or benzine and stir thoroughly, add sufficient turpen- tine so it can be applied with a brush. Use a flat wall brush. When drying has commenced, which will be evident by the gloss disappearing, rub off the surplus with excelsior or a piece of burlap. The filler will dry in twelve hours, when the first coat of varnish can be applied. For an extra smooth finish, after the filler is dry, give the surface a rubbing with No. 1 steel wool. SEROCO LIQUID WOOD FILLER. This material is intended for filling soft woods and is ready to be applied. It makes an excellent wall filler for plastered walls, in fact, there is nothing on the market that will work as well as the Seroco Liquid Wood Filler. It thor- oughly seals up the pores in plastered walls and is the best undercoat for paint. DIRECTIONS. Apply the filler with a fiat varnish or paint brush. A thin coat will be sufficient. The filler will dry in twelve hours, when the surface is ready for the paint or varnish. The wood filler takes the place of one coat of varnish and a coat of varnish applied o\'er it will produce a better finish than two coats of varnish without the filler. STEEL WOOL AND SHAVINGS. j%^-^^'J'^^— ■ -^"--7 '■ "''='''' ■" ^ This is a German invention and has been used I sTEEL | wooL ^ by German woodworkers over twenty years. It is now V"^^^^^"^'^^ ' ' \^ ^ ^^ ^^m^ extensively used in this country and found superior to sandpaper for many purposes. It is a mass of fine fibers of steel resembling curled hair, which while sharp does not scratch, but will cut as smoothly as the finest sandpaper, emery or pumice stone. Used for rubbing down fillers and varnishes, it takes the place of sandpaper or pumice stone and will be found a much better article to use. For finishing mouldings and working around curves, which can not be done with sandpaper, the steel wool adapts itself to the shape of mouldings and car\'ings. No. is \-ery fine and used in place of the finest sandpaper; No. 1 is slightly coarser and used for rubbing down fillers; No. 3 is still coarser and is used in place of sandpapei; No. 1, 3^ and 2. Steel shavings are used for removing old paint and varnish and for cleaning floors and rough work in general, also for remo\ing rust on iron utensils, farm machinery, sto\-e pipes, radiators, in fact, any and all iron work. SHELLAC. Liquid shellac consists of dry shellac mixed with wood alcohol. It is used by furniture manufacturers for first coating on fine furniture. This material does not penetrate the wood, but remains on the surface and dries hard with a high gloss similar to varnish. It comes in two colors, orange and white; the orange shellac is used when it is not necessary to preser\'e the grain of the wood. It is also extensively used for shellacing knots and sappy streaks before painting, as the shellac will prevent the resin from working through the paint. White shellac is used when it is desired to preserve the grain of the wood. Apply shellac the same as varnish. Simple GRAINING COLORS IN OIL. The colors listed under the heading, " Grain- ing Colors in Oil," are used for graining purposes only and are put up in paste form. To prepare same add boiled linseed oil ; very little only is re- quired, for the color should be heavier than ordin- ary paint, otherwise it will run and spoil the work. Should you find it too thin, add dry whiting or a small quantity of putty to thicken it. Several years ago a new roller was invented (as illustrated and listed in our paint sample book), with which everyone, without the least experience, can do a perfect job of graining and the natural grain of any wood so imitated that it is impossible to distin- guish the natural grain from the grain made by the graining roller. Doors which formerlv were painted can be made to look like oak with the graining roller without the assistance of the experienced grainer. directions sent with every set of Davis Improved Wood Grainers. SEROCO PAINT AND VARNISH REVIVER. Here is a great money saver, something you cannot afford to be without; it will raise the dead, that is, in the life of paint and varnish. Where the paint or varnish is in good condition, but very greasy, dirty or dull, this article will remove the grease, dirt, etc., and bring out the original color of the paint and luster of the varnish. This reviver combines the properties of a cleaner as well as a renewer for any painted or varnished surface. It will remove the grease and dirt spots from painted and varnished surfaces, and by a little rubbing it will produce a finish equal to new work. This reviver possesses particular ad- vantages o^•er other articles of this class, as it combines the property of cleaning and polishing in one operation, and saves going over a surface a second time. DIRECTIONS. The dry dust and dirt should be dusted off, then apply the re\'iver with a cloth or rag or cotton waste ; allow to remain on the surface for a few minutes, then wipe dry and rul:) with a clean piece of waste or cloth. SEROCO PAINT AND VARNISH REMOVER. This preparation is used for softening old varnish, paint, shellac, wax, enamels, etc., when it can be wiped off with excelsior or a cloth. It is the best preparation on earth for removing old finishes, as it does the work perfectly and leaves the surface as clean as when new. It will not change the color of the wood nor will it injure the hands of the operator. The Seroco Paint and Var- nish Remover works like magic and is a great time and labor saver and econ- omical as well, for one gallon will remo\-e over 300 square feet of varnish or paint. DIRECTIONS. Apply with a brush or cloth. The old finish will at once become soft, when it can be removed with excelsior or a cloth; then wipe the surface with a cloth saturated with benzine or turpentine, when it can be re- ' finished. SEROCO FURNITURE AND PIANO POJISH. The best polish on earth, guaranteed not to injure the finest finish. It is the best on earth and sold for less money than any other, as a pint can is sold at a lower price than a four-ounce bottle of other makes. It is used by high class furniture and piano manufacturers who would not use any other. Seroco Furniture and Piano Polish is adapted for use on old as well as new furniture. It has the advantage o\-er other polishes of not gumming up the corners and, therefore, will not collect dust or dirt. Applied as per directions on the package, it will be found to remo\'e the dull appearance incident to var- nished surfaces during damp or muggy weather. It is perfectly harmless and will not affect the varnish in any way. Another advantage it possesses is the small amount of labor required in applying it ; being free from greasy substances, it requires but very little rubbing 10 to bring the surface to a brilliant polish, at the same time removing all ordinary dirt and grease spots. It can be used as well on ordinary furniture as on the finest piano, organ or other highly finished work. DIRECTIONS. Remove all dry dust or dirt from the surface to be polished. Shake the can well before using. Saturate a piece of wadding, cotton or any soft material with the polish and rub well on the surface. Only a few minutes will be required to obtain a brilliant and smooth finish. Then with a perfectly dry and clean piece of cotton, rub long enough to remove all moisture from the finish. When not using the polish keep the can well corked. SEROCO BUGGY AND CARRIAGE PAINT. Improved machinery and increased demand has reduced the cost of painting material to the extent that today, a strictly high grade, durable buggy paint made of the very best material, can be purchased for 50 cents per quart can. No need of tra^'eling the roads in a gray looking vehicle. It is not a difficult thing to do, anyone can do the work and make a good job of it. DIRECTIONS. Begin by removing the wheels and have the vehicle rest on barrels or any supports. Procure some No. 2 sandpaper and sandpaper the body and running parts. After sandpapering the body and running parts, put on the wheels and sandpaper them in the same manner. It is not intended to remove the old paint, simply to take off the gloss and even the surface. After sandpapering, give it a general dusting, when the vehicle is ready for the paint. If any grease is on the hubs, clean off with benzine or tur- pentine; it is ad\-isable to give the hubs a coat of orange shellac, which will pre- A'ent any grease, which should remain on the hubs, from working through. Remove the wheels and begin on the body. Apply an even coat of paint with a bristle or badger hair varnish brush, next paint the running gear, then put on the wheels and give them a coat o.f paint. It is needless to say that this work should be done out of the way of dust. Allow about twenty-four hours or until the next day for first coat to dry ; now should there be any imperfections such as holes, cracks and dents, putty them up with a putty made in the following man- ner: Make a stiff dough "by mixing whiting with some of the paint you are using, then add about one-third white lead ground in oil ; work smooth by knead- ing; if too thin add whiting. Putty up the imperfections using a putty knife. The putty will dry in twelve hours, then sandpaper the putty spots to even them and' apply the second coat of paint, which proceed to do in the same order as above. Steel wool is highly recommended to use in place of sandpaper. SEROCO WAGON AND IMPLEMENT PAINT. For painting wagons, farm implements and all machinery used on the farm. DIRECTIONS. For one-coat work, sandpaper the parts lightly; after dusting, apply the paint with a 1, 1 3^ or 2-inch varnish brush. Spread on a heavy coat, but do not brush out, the fewer the strokes, the better the finish. The paint will dry in less than twenty-four hours, but three days should be allowed for it "to thoroughlv harden. For two-coat work, apply in the same manner as directed for Seroco" Buggy and Carriage Paint. On one-coat work the new paint must be of the same color as the old paint on the wagon or implement, otherwise two coats will have to be applied. Thin with turpentine only if too thick. Use No. 2 sandpaper or No. 3 steel wool for sandpapering. Steel wool is recom- mended for such work. FRENCH OCHRE IN OIL. Pure French yellow ochre ground in linseed oil in paste form. Some painters still use this material for priming, but we do not recommend it for this purpose, as the best paint will not wear when applied on a surface primed with ochre. It can be used for priming when mineral paints are used. This material goes through a thorough process of grinding, therefore, is far superior to dry ochre mixed with linseed oil by hand. To prepare it for priming (that is painting the lirst coat), add boiled linseed oil in the proportion of 5 gallons of oil to 100 pounds of ochre ground in oil. VENETIAN RED IN OIL. This material is prepared in the same manner as French ochre in oil and used for the same purpose. PUTTY. Made from whiting and pure linseed oil, A very cheap article is now being made, consisting of whiting and marble dust mixed with a mineral oil, and is absolutely worthless; when used for puttying window glass, it will crumble in a short time. Pure linseed oil putty can be purchased at 2)^ cents per pound, therefore, why use a cheap article? When puttying window glass, use a putty knife, which can be had from 5 cents up, as a -better job can be done with the proper tools. Should the putty become hard from age, soften with linseed oil, kneading it while you add the linseed oil. COLORS IN OIL. These colors are in paste form and used for tinting paints. We cannot go into detail as to how the different shades are produced and if you are inexperienced and desire a certain shade, you cannot do better than to purchase the Seroco House Paints and be on the safe side by being protected tinder the five-year guarantee. To the painter who desires the best colors, we can recommend the Seroco Colors in Oil as being superior to any on the market for strength and tone. DRY COLORS. These colors are in their natural state as they come from the manufac- turers. Some mix the dry colors with linseed oil for painting barns, etc. This is not recommended, as you really have nothing but a coarse mixture, which will not withstand the weather, as you have a porous paint. Seroco Barn Paint is the cheapest in the end, for then you have a paint that is thoroughly ground, which makes it strictly weather proof and will wear three times as long. Dry colors are principally used for tinting calcimine and making graining colors. PURE ZINC GROUND IN OIL. Oxide of zinc ground in pure linseed oil. It is now extensively used in con- nection with white lead in making paint and improves the paint wonderfully. Sulphur and gas fumes have very little effect on paints made with w^hite lead and zinc. French zinc is principally used for making a flat white paint by thin- ning with turpentine and a little dryer added. This paint will produce ajlat finish, that is without any gloss, a coat of varnish must be applied over it. will produce a fine glossy white surface for any interior work. SEROCO WHITE LEAD IN OIL. A combination of zinc and pure white lead ground in pure linseed oil. It is made by the latest improved ma- cninery and when mixed with pure linseed oil, it will make a Ijetter paint than strictly pure white and has been thoroughly tested. We recommend this white lead to those who prefer to mix their own paints, but the inexperienced should not bother with mixing their own colors when the highest grade of ready mixed paint can be purchased for 98 cents and less, per gallon, according to quantity desired. The above white lead will take 6 gallons of oil to 100 pounds of lead. This 12 STRICTLY PURE WHITE LEAD. We handle the following brands of pure white lead, Red Seal, Shipman, Eckstein, Southern and Collier. These brands are all made by the same process, made in factories located at different places, but they are all controlled Jdv one concern, therefore, there should not be any difference in quality. Put up in 12^, 25, 50 and 100-pound kegs. The above white lead will take 6 gallons of linseed oil to 100 pounds of lead for a light paint and 5 gallons of oil for a heavy paint. GRAPHITE PASTE PAINT. Consisting of pure graphite aftd boiled linseed oil, thoroughly mixed by ma- chinery. Is a dark slate, the natural color of graphite. Very many use it for painting smoke stacks and iron work and it seems to give good satisfaction. To prepare it for painting, add 3 gallons of boiled linseed oil to 121^ pounds of graphite, which will make 4 gallons of ready mixed graphite paint. DRY GRAPHITE OR PLUMBAGO. The best grade is used for painting purposes and lubricating; the best is known as air floated and the very purest on the market. The next grade is principally used in the manufacture of stove polishes and paints. Large quan- tities of this graphite is used in foundries. COLD WATER PAINT. This material is made by a patent process and comes in the form of a dry powder. It is prepared by mixing with cold water; it must be mixed according to directions, otherwise it cannot be used. To prepare it properly, first make a paste of the powder by mixing a little water with it, stir thoroughly until you have a smooth creamy paste, then thin down by adding more water until it is of the same consistency as oil paint. Use a calcimine brush for applying the cold water paint. While the manufacturers recommend the cold water paint for outside pur- poses, we do not guarantee it to give satisfaction for this purpose. We handle the best cold water paint on the market, but to recommend it for outside work is out of the question, as no paint mixed with water will preserve your build- ings. Seroco Cold Water Paint is an excellent article for interior work to be used in place of any other lime preparation. It is superior to whitewash, as it does not rub ofT and will last longer than whitewash. It is adapted for rough interior walls, whether of plaster or wood, basements, interiors of barns, sheds, chicken houses, etc. Easily applied and quick drying. For interior walls of residences we recommend the Seroco Sanitary Calcimine; this material will make a better finish and can be removed with water at any time. The cold water paint cannot be washed off. SEROCO SANITARY CALCIMINE. Prepared calcimine is fast taking the place of the home made article and is becoming more popular e\'ery day, as the product is now so perfected that anyone without the least experience can do a good job of calcimi.iing. The article is prepared and only requires mixing with cold water. Prepare it by first mixing one part of the powder with one-half part cold water, add the water slowly while stirring; after the lumps have disappeared, slowly add one- fourth part more water and the mixture is ready for use. If the old calcimine is very dirty, remo\'e it from the walls with water and a sponge or cloth, but if not \'ery' dusty simply brush off any loose parti- cles and apply the new calcimine over the old coating. 13 THE CARE OF BRUSHES. Keep brushes in a cool or damp place and as near the floor as possible. Exposure to heat will cause the wood to shrink and the best brush to shed bristles. A brush should never be condemned be- cause it contains a few loose hairs. A careful person will get these out before putting the brush into use. Swelling a new brush is a very important item. Under no circumstances should a new brush be put in water to swell with the bristles down in the water, for water soaked bristles will always work fiabby, and if the bristles are of fine quality, they will nearly always twist. Put new brushes in the water with the handle down, as shown hi the illustration, letting the water come to the ferrule and not any further. This will swell the handles without soaking the elasticity out of the bristles. Old paint brushes, which* have become dry, treat in the same manner. Paint brushes, which have been once used in paint, can be put in water with the bristles in the water without injuring the bristles, as explained in the following: A good method for preserving used paint brushes is to suspend them in water by running a wire through a hole in the handle of the brush and allow the water to cover the bristles only. Another way is to drive nails through the side of a wood bvicket and suspend the brushes on the nails (see illustration.) If desired to store away paint brushes, wash them in turpentine and then in warm soapsuds, then store them in a cool place. Never put varnish brushes in water; they can be swelled the same as paint brushes, but the bristles should never touch water, whether a new or old brush ; keep them suspended in raw linseed oil when not in use. Never use a varnish brush for any other purpose, but use it for varnishing only. Never attempt to varnish with a brush which has been used in paint ; you will never do good work with it. Never put a brush in newly slacked lime, as it will destroy the bristles. Many brushes are ruined in this manner and then returned to the seller with the claim that the brush is of inferior quality. Camel's Hair Brushes. Camel's hair and fitch brushes will last longer ar,d work better, if, when not in use, they are rinsed in turpentine and washed in warm soapsuds. Then keep them in raw linseed oil. A FEW SUGGESTIONS. Washing Paint. When soapsuds are used for washing old paint before re- painting, be sure and rinse off well, otherwise it will pre\-ent the paint from dry- ing, partictilarly on greasy work. When paint fails to dry, take equal parts of japan dryer and turpentine and apply all over with a brush, rubbing it well in the paint. Painting on cloth and paper. Alcohol shellac mixed with any dry color will make an excellent paint for painting ornaments or letters on cloth or paper. Removing paint from clothing. Saturate the paint spots with equal parts of turpentine and ammonia, two or three times if necessary; this will soften the paint when it can be washed out with soapsuds. Hard Putty — How to remove. Take muriatic acid and with a brush or cloth fastened to a stick apply to the putty, which will soften it, when it can be scraped off with a putty knife. The acid, after the putty has been removed, shovild be rinsed off. A FEW WORDS ABOUT SEROCO READY MIXED PAINT, THE HIGHEST GRADE READY MIXED PAINT ON THE MARKET. We are the only house in the trade that does not buy a gallon of paint to sell again. We make every gallon of paint that we handle. We market the very best paints at about one-half the prices_asked by all others for paints of equal quality, and the only reason we can do this is because we are manufac- turers. In buying paints from us, you are not paying a price that includes a profit to the jobber, wholesaler or retail merchant. You are buying directly from the manufacturer and you are paying a price that covers only the first cost, the cost of the m^aterial and labor, with only our one small manufacturing profit added. You are buying as cheap, or cheaper, than your dealer or any other dealer buys. You are saving all his profits, and you are getting a better grade of paint than you could otherwise secure. All of our oils, pigments and other materials are bought in very large quan- tities at the very lowest contract prices. Everything we use is carefully inspected and analyzed for quality and purity, something that smaller dealers and most manufacturers are not in a position to do. We employ the most up to date and modern labor saving paint mixing and grinding machinery. We run our paint factory the year round, and we are able to operate it on a most economical basis. All this helps to make our prices as low as they are. Every operation is intended to reduce cost but to maintain quality, and our customers get the benefit of e\-crv effort we make in these directions. 15 THE SUPERIORITY OF SEROCO READY MIXED PAINTS TO THE PAINTS MIXED BY HAND. There is no reason nowadays for trying to mix your own paint. We claim and we can assure yau that our Ready Mixed Seroco Paint is as superior to paint made of white lead and oil and stirred to- gether in a bucket as the electric lamp of the present day is superior to the tallow candle of former gen- erations. It is surely evident that a paint manu- factured with modern machinery and the best ma- terial at its command, caij produce an article far superior to the man, even though he is a practical painter, who buys lead and oil and mixes it in a tub with a ladle. It is certain that modern machinery can mix the materials more thoroughly and at a smaller expense than a painter or individual with a pot and stick. Our modern paint mixing and grinding machinery does the work with wonderful thoroughness. To make good paint you must grind and knead the oils and pigments together by ma- chinery, as the friction of the mill stones heats the oil, making it run more freely. It puh'erizes the pigments and soaks every particle of the materials with oil, making a paint that is smooth, co\'ers well, and works thoroughly under the brush. If you are not convinced of the advisabiUty of buying a good, high class, ready mixed paint like the Seroco, just for an experiment try the old way of mixing the paint Avith a tub and stick. Then, after you have thoroughly stirred your oil, white lead, and tints in the tub, take your putty knife and spread a little of this paint on a pane of glass. Rub it out well with the putty knife and you will see that it is all streaked by the small particles that ha\'e not- been ground. In plain words your paint is not good. It is not mixed thoroughly. It will not cover well or v/ork well or do a good job. Don't waste time trying to mix your own paint. There is nothing in it. No advantage whatever. In fact, trying to mix your own paint might well be compared to a farmer who would use a flail to thresh his grain instead of taking advantage of the modern time and labor saving threshing machines. It is economy to paint thoroughly and often. Painting is cheap compared to lumber and other building material. A good coat of paint goes so far to- wards preser\ing woodwork of any kind, so improves the appearance of the article on which it is applied, that the cost of the paint is nothing compared to the advantages of painting. It will repay everyone handsomely to keep his buildings of all kinds, buggies, implements, etc., well painted. Money in\-ested in paint is the cheapest kind of economy. HAVE YOU OUR PAINT COLOR SAMPLE BOOK? If you have not received our Paint Sample book showing samples of the actual colors of all the paints we make, do not fail to write for it and we will be glad to send it to you entirely free of charge. This sample book contains S5 samples of the different paints we manufacture, together with descriptions and prices, and if you have not already received this paint sample book, do not fail to write and asic for it. It will be sent to anyone by mail, postpaid, free on application. 16 HOW TO ASCERTAIN THE QUANTITY OF PAINT REQUIRED. Measure the length, width and height of the building ; the height is measured at one corner of the building and not necessary to measure to the highest point of the gable. For instance, the building measures 20x30 feet — 20 feet high, now you have two sides, 30 feet in length each, and two ends, each 20 feet wide; add these together, which makes a total of 100 feet; multiply this by the height, which is 20 feet and the result, 2,000 square feet, is the number of feet to be cov- ered with paint. One gallon of Seroco Ready Mixed Paint will cover from 225 to 300 square feet of surface, according to the surface; some surfaces are very porous and absorb more paint than others, therefore, in figuring we suggest that the basis of 250 square feet to the gallon be taken. Now you divide 250 into 2,000, the result will give you the number of gallons required for two coats, which in this case is 8 gallons. Example : Front 20 feet Rear 20 feet Side 30 feet Side 30 feet Total 100 feet Multiply height 20 feet_ Total ^OOTquare feet Divide by 250)2,000(8 gallons ABOUT THE COVERING POWER OF SEROCO READY MIXED PAINT. Seroco Ready Mixed Paint will cover more surface than any other paint on the market. We do not claim that our paint will do more than it actually will do; a trial will convince you of this. Our paint in most cases will cover more than 300 square feet to the gallon, but it is better to be on the safe side and avoid any inconveniences of a shortage. Should you have some paint left, it is cer- tainly not a loss, as good paint can always be used around the house. Selecting Colors. In order to assist our friends in making proper and suit- able selections for "ta-imming, we have selected three trimming colors for each shade of paint ; these are designated by the numbers printed on the right of every sample in our color sample book, with the exception of a few positive colors which are never used for the body of buildings. You can select any of the num- bers gi\-en with the assurance that the colors will harmonize and have a pleasing effect. For instance, if color No. 208 pearl is desired for the body, we recominend No. 215 cream, or No. 233 slate or No. 250 azure. blue for the trimming color, any of these colors will look well and harmonize perfectly and only a matter of taste as to which to use. If you are in doubt as to which of the three trim- ming colors to select, we would suggest that you look at other buildings and note the different color combinations, you may find something similar and get an idea as to the appearance when on the building. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 051 204 7 m