V-iV.' ■ LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 1 Si---:-''- ^i^^B '!-i'-^;i'?'M» fwy^'fk ^. Book ' A . 5^^9v FROM GEYSER TO CANON WITH MARY Cl;^\oTaird awoke and found him- self decorated with a sign, Bargain — Marked Down to 49 cts. He hung it on Simpson, who awoke cured when he read the sign. It was transferred to all the sleepers in turn and effectually dispelled the drowsiness except in the case of Judd, who stoutly maintained afterward that he had been "doped" by some one this morning. Up the Columbia we passed Fort Vancouver, where Uncle Sam maintains a large army post. Eiler was sorry he had left his khaki suit on the train, as the soldiers were traveling to and fro on shore and sentinels posted in all directions wearing the identical breed. We began to get into the really interesting portion of the river scenery, but our view of it was still much hampered by the smoke. Cape Horn was a bold, rocky headland running perpendicularly up from the water. On the right hand going up were to be seen numerous waterfalls, some of them dropping from a great height and dashing into spray before reaching the bottom. Numerous salmon wheels were passed as well as fish pounds, where the salmon are captured by millions. These wheels are turned by the river current. They catch the fish as they come up the river on their buckets and turn them over into a net suspended on the upper side. They work while the owner sleeps and he wakes up in the morning with a barrel of money in his pocket. There was no fishing going on now, as it was between seasons. The run of one breed of salmon had ended and the other had not yet begun. Luncheon was served on the boat at ii A. M. and was very much enjoyed. It was our first experience with Japanese cooks, who proved their skill at their trade. It was a very tasty meal and no fault could be found with it or the service. Our usual appetites had been brought along and all enjoyed the luncheon very much. We had chartered the steamer to go up to and through the Cascade Locks, but we found the trip was going to be much slower than we expected and accordingly gave orders to turn about at Warrendale at 1.15 P. M. We wished to see some little of Portland City and darkness would have overtaken us on our return if we had gone the limit. Going down stream we made a little better progress. The wind had been against us going up, which made the air very pleasant. Going back the wind was with us and the heat grew oppressive, making us hunt for shade. Some of the kodakers tried to get pictures of the rocky shores as we drew near them, as well as of a large quarry right on the shore. We could see by the remains of former drift stuff and the marks of muddy water high up on the banks that the Columbia could be a raging torrent when it got its back up. Now the stage of water was very low and they had difficulty in poking the boat's nose into the lower stage of a landing to take a can of milk aboard. Real milk it was, too, such as we had for luncheon to-day. It was a change from the diluted condensed article upon which we subsist in the Pullman service. We retraced our way down the Columbia and up the Wil- lamette, arriving at the wharf at 5 P. M. A remarkable feature of the day's trip was the fact that the steamer burned nothing but crude oil under its boilers. The fire hole looked as clean as a parlor and the oil being fed automatically, the fireman had nothing to do but watch his gauges. Twenty-five barrels of oil, costing but eighty cents per barrel, sufficed for a day's fuel, so that it is very economical as well as cleanly. No shoveling of coal or ashes, but simply rolling full barrels on in the morning and empty ones off at night. Once ashore, many of the pilgrims boarded trolleys for a ride about the city. Others flew for the stores, which were raided for souvenir spoons, plates and postal cards. Chinatown was run into on our way up from the dock and the chinks curiously looked over. Simpson got a good snap at a young chink who wondered what he was pointing at him. At 6.30 P. M. nearly everybody was at the station and ready for dinner, which had been awaiting them. It was learned through the railroad officials that nearly seventy special and regular trains would pass through Portland to-night and to-morrow on their way 82 to the Conclave City. But one had yet departed and that contained Boston Commandery. By getting Tourist Agent McCoy to work we secured the privilege of going out at 7 P. M. instead of 8.30 P. M., our schedule time, if we could get ready. Some few strag- glers had not yet come in and their arrival was anxiously awaited, as we did not want to get in the rear of any more hoodoo trains that might be on the road. Five minutes before the allotted time, for which other delegations were also waiting, our delinquents turned up and the word was passed to hook the waiting engine on our train. Just as we were about to start three Coeur de Lion pilgrims from Charlestown, Mass., who had been left behind by the Boston train, were discovered in the station waiting room looking very discon- Young Chink solate. Chairman Allen at once extended to them an invitation to consider themselves as the guests of Mary Commandery and accom- pany us to San Francisco unless we should sooner overtake their train. They gladly availed themselves of the opportunity to get ahead and soon made themselves at home. We could only make beds for them in the smoker, but could feed them all right. They were very glad to get in out of the wet with any kind of accommo- dation. They were forced to accompany us all the way to the Conclave City. They had taken the ride up the Columbia River on the regular boat and got back just in time to see their train going out on one of the steel bridges under which the boat passed. They were naturally a little hot under the collar at being left by their fellow-travelers, but cooled off before rejoining them. 83 Mrs. Baird had been complaining of the lack of bathing accom- modations on the train. Doc Righter found a tin foot bath in Portland this afternoon and brought it aboard as a present to Mrs. B., who made arrangements to treat her car mates on the strength of it. At 9 P. M. it was brought in filled with lemonade. Together with cakes and candies, it was passed arour.d, and made a merry time of it in the car. Most of the ladies were read}- for sleep at an early hour, owing to the unusual combination of salt air and the breezes from the smoking pine forests. There was also fewer of the night owls on duty in the smoker and midnight was about the limit for the last of the trombones to play up. Magnolia Drive 84 Sunday, September 4, 1 904 VOTHER bright and clear Sunday morning greeted our waking eyes. We are following a moun- tain stream on an up grade and have two en- gines in front. At the first stop we found that they were now burning wood which appeared to be the most plentiful object in sight. We were making slow prog- ress, however, having only legged 263 miles in 13 hours, but our train crew claimed that we were on time accord- ing to schedule. All the morning we were either skirting or crossing the Calapooia Mountains, except when we were going through them. In one section of seven miles we had to pass through eight tunnels and the air in them did not remind any one of Attar of Roses. We were only aware that this was Sunday by looking at our itinerary, as the railroad section men were all hard at work along the line. Chinamen with their yokes across their shoulders, bearing two buckets of water or other burdens, were numerous and picturesque in their bamboo head coverings. When the section hands would catch sight of ^Mary's canvas badges on the side of the cars we would be welcomed with a cheer or wave of the hands. Thousands of cords of wood lined the road in many places, presumably for the use of the engines on this division. We are now in charge of the Southern Pacific Railroad until we shall reach Los Angeles, the Northern Pacific Road having discharged their duties at Portland. Some of the twists and turns the road makes this morning remind one very much of looping the loop. We could see any number of tracks at once apparently, but they were all the same one. There was the track we had been on, the one that we were now on and some that we were destined to get on if we had good luck, all one above the other. At 9.05 we reached the top of another range, the Umpqua, and crossed over another of the many divides in this country, starting down hill on the other side after squeezing through another tunnel. The distant views from the car windows this morning embraced a finely improved country with growing crops, immense fruit orchards and large herds of cattle. This was the Umpqua Valley, one of the finest in the State. After getting down the mountains we found a still finer section of country known as the Rogue River Valley. Peach orchards were numerous before we got down far and fruit of all kinds was raised in great quantities. Peaches, apples and pears predominated, while plums were also plentiful. Many small towns were scattered along the line of the railroad, but we made no stops except for wood or water. At Grant's Pass at 9.45 A. M. we stopped to change engines. Many people were at the station to see the trains pass to-day, among them one white-haired old Knight who claimed to be a member of Kadosh Commandery of our city. The conductor we had brought out of Portland had given us a fish story in the smoker this morning to the effect that he knew of and we would pass a place where you could walk across the river upon live salmon swimming at the top of the water. The shouts of derision and the grand chorus with which this statement was re- ceived would have abashed anyone but a railroad man. The con- ductor never smiled, but said, Wait! We were running down the course of the Rogue River and the valley showed every evidence of prosperity. Orchards, wheat and alfalfa fields, cattle, sheep and horse ranches lined the whole valley. In the river at all still pools we began to see evidence of truth in the conductor's story, as the salmon could be seen jumping in all directions after insects. At a dam in the river called Gold Ray Dam and near to Gold Hill Station, the salmon below the dam certainly seemed to bear out the yarn we had heard. Their heads were sticking out of tJie water just below the fall in such numbers as to almost justify the statement that a light-footed person might walk across on them. Of course there was no excitement on the train, but it was hard to keep some of the crowd on board, as the engineer was running slow to give us a good view. None of us had ever seen such a sight before and we backed down to the conductor for all we had said. Our dining car commissary, Livezey, said he had been down here before and had been told for a fact that you had to get behind a tree to get a bait on your hook or the fish would have it before you could impale it. Many lava beds showed along the banks of the river, being evidence that there must have been a hot time around here at some period of the world's history. At 11.40 A. M. we pulled up to the station platform at Ashland, Oregon, where the whole town seemed to be on hand. As we had a 86 stop of twenty minutes the train was soon emptied and the pilgrims were gazing upon a pleasant sight. A dozen or more very pretty young ladies, dressed all in v/hite and each wearing a fez with the name of Al Kader Temple of the Mystic Shrine thereon, were busily engaged in making offerings of fruit of all kinds as well as handsome flowers to our pilgrims. This was being done at the instance of their fathers, the Knights Templar of the city, as well as of the Board of Trade. The task seemed to give them as much pleasure as the reception gave to our ladies. They were all imme- diate! v decorated with Mary souvenirs and had to stand repeatedly for pictures in response to the demands of the kodakers. Some of Ashland Girls these took their names also and promised to send them each a picture if they turned out well. Jake Haines was as good as his word and has since forwarded the photos. It was with much regret that we heard the for once unwelcome cry of "All Aboard" sounded, but the cheers given for the Al Kader girls, the Commandery and the Board of Trade were none the less hearty. The peaches received here were some of the finest we had ever eaten and the manner of their acquisition gave them a still greater relish. Immediately after leaving Ashland Station we began to make more wild curves among the Siskiyou Mountains, equal to any over which we had yet passed. At one point we made a run of seventeen miles to gain a half mile. But they enlivened the road and gave us plenty to look at, including many fires burning fiercely amongst the timber. Tunnels galore again beset our route and gas without end found its way through the crevices. At 2.15 P. M. we passed out of Oregon into California, and that State once entered, we began to feel as though we were getting to our destination. Luncheon over, the ladies made frequent journeys to the bag- gage car to stow away all unnecessary baggage in the recesses of their trunks which had been already retagged and marked with the number of the rooms they were to occupy at the San Marco Hotel, which we would reach on the morrow. It was another busy day for Stump, who realized that there was no rest for the wicked, even on Sunday. The room numbers had been forwarded to us at Gardner and were received when we came out of the Yellow- stone. We had been originally quartered at the Seven Oaks Hotel, but the proprietor thereof, upon being written to for the numbers of our rooms, had unceremoniously thrown us down. This was less than a month before we started and we had a signed contract with him two years old. His letter announcing the fact that he would not take us in was as cool and matter-of-fact as if it was an every- day business transaction. A telegram to the Executive Committee of the Conclave at San Francisco set matters right in a couple of days. They gave us better and more convenient and much pleasanter quarters at the San Marco, much to our relief. At 3.30 P. M. a service of song was improvised in one of the cars under the leadership of Al Gregory. Quite a congregation gathered and was ushered into pews regardless of ownership or rent payers. Favorite hymns were called for and sung with a will until 4.10 P. M., when some one who glanced out of the window exclaimed "There's Mount Shasta." The services came to an abrupt close. The mountain had been on our minds all day and we had been anxious to see its snow-covered crown, but fearful lest the hazy atmosphere should spoil our view. But we were not doomed to disappointment this time, as the peak loomed up in fine shape and the view was a grand one. In a short time we got a nearer and better view and Mount Shasta continued to ring the changes for us until 5.45 P. M. Owing to the twists and turns of the road we had it now on one side and then on the other. Occasionally out of sight because dead ahead or directly astern, but the same grand old picture whenever it came in sight. The snow which covered it in huge patches had apparently no intention of ever melting. We now have an oil-burning engine for a change and miss our showers of fireworks which have been changed to black smoke, which is not so heavy as is caused by the Pennsylvania's soft coal. We are still in cahoots with the engineers and have relays riding on the engine. They have a fine view of Mount Shasta from there and enjoy the novelty very much. At 6.30 P. M. we pulled up at the station at Sisson, where are located the Mt. Shasta Springs. It is said that these belong to the President of the Southern Pacific and all trains arc held up here to give the passengers a taste of the waters whether they drink or not. The first half was at the dinner table, but the second contingent was soon off the train and sampling the waters. They also handed quantities of it into the windows of the diner. One spring was fine apollinaris, another was good soda water, while just between the two and in close proximity was pure, plain spring water. The apollinaris came down the rocks in a beau- tiful cascade, embellished on each side with ferns and plants of all kinds, interspersed with electric illuminations. An electric railway was running up the mountain side, which was as steep or steeper than the Pike's Peak road, and fountains were playing in several places. The waste water turned a large water wheel, half hidden in a bed of ferns and lit up with colored electric bulbs hidden in the growth of plants. Altogether it was a fascinating scene and could have been enjoyed for a longer time. John Robbins filled his buckets with the apollinaris gratis to stretch out his supplies. As the party filed into the diner to-night Livezey produced a huge bunch of telegrams, one of which was addressed to each pilgrim on the train. The telegrams were all on the proper Western Union blank, signed by our frater and friend. Judge MilHgan, now Grand Senior Warden of Pennsylvania. At the top of each was the Judge's picture with the smile that seldom comes ofif and the wording was as follows : "With pleasant recollections of Mary Commandery's joyous welcome at the Golden Gate in 1892, I wish for you and accompanying pilgrims the same cordial and fraternal greeting. \lay }our stay in the Conclave City be as interesting and as full of happy moments as was ours twelve years ago. See China- town and add to your knowledge." On the reverse side were printed the menu for to-night's dinner, which was an evidence that the tele- grams had not come through the regular channel. We were unable to gain any further information about them except that they had been handed to Livezey at the station. Conversation to-night drifted largely onto the pleasures ex- pected in San Francisco during the next four days and all resolved at least to follow Milligan's advice and see Chinatown. It was not a late night, as the day had been quite a strenuous one, although nominallv one of rest. Monday, September 5, 1904 HIS morning was one of great expectations as we looked forward to four days of un- alloyed pleasure. Our train did not pull into Oakland Station until 7 A. M. Break- fast had been hurried forward and the first half had got through the meal and had their personal belongings in hand ready to land. Some little time was con- sumed in transferring the baggage to trucks, but not sufBcient to enable all the second half to get through with their meal when, without any notice, an engine was hooked onto the rear of the train and ran the cars out several miles into the car yards. It was necessary to keep the incoming track clear, as trains were constantly arriving from all directions. There was a com- mittee present from Golden Gate Commandery who used all kinds of persuasion in addition to our own to have our pilgrims brought back so that we could cross the ferry. Every minute we had the promise of an engine to be sent for them, but were as often dis- appointed. It was a most tedious hour of waiting before our prayers were granted and the delayed contingent restored to us. What their arguments, prayers and objurgations were at the other end of the line must have been something alarming from all accounts. All hands were held together until they arrived and boarded the enormous ferryboat at 8.15 A. M. Twenty of the Sir Knights had donned their uniforms to be escorted to the hotel. They took their stations on the lower deck of the steamer, while the remainder of the pilgrims were installed in the palatial cabins of the upper deck. The ride across the bay was very pleasant. The air was just cool enough for the ladies to wear light wraps and fine for those who marched. All kinds of craft were at anchor in or speeding across the bay, among which were several of Uncle Sam's warships. When the Union ferry depot at the foot of Market street was reached the uniformed squad was mustered on the forward deck and received a salute from the ladies above. When the boat landed they were marched through the depot to the street, where was drawn up an escort of about one hundred men from Golden Gate Commandery, who stood in open order and presented swords as our little part}' 91 marched through. In advance was a troop of CaHfornia Command- ery mounted upon black horses and wearing their characteristic uniform with its black velvet cape. The escort then took the lead and marched up Market street to Taylor, where they took their leave and returned to the ferry for further duty, while the Mary lads marched up the steep hills of Taylor street to the hotel. On either side of the line of march were immense crowds of Knights Templar and their wives, all of whom had been given a similar Templar welcome upon their arrival. The San Marco was found to be a fine headquarters, centrally located and more than comfortable in the matter of good rooms and bath attachments. In the meantime the balance of the party had been loaded on special trolleys in waiting and expected to reach the San Francisco Trolley hotel ahead of the marching squad. But it happened to be Labor Day and the working element, which has absolute control of every- thing in this union-ridden city, had blocked all the streets with their lines of formation for their grand parade. At every turn the trolleys made they were met by a battalion in waiting and forced to sheer ofif. After about a two hours' ride, during which they saw prettv much all the old and level portion of San Francisco, they were enabled to strike Taylor street and reach the hotel, glad to reach the end of their enforced journey and gain the shelter of their rooms. The baggage had got to the front pavement ahead of every- body. Before half of it had been taken upstairs the elevator went on a strike and the porters were non-plussed for a means to get the balance to the rooms. They did not relish the idea of carrying 92 it up in the old-fashioned way and the manager was afraid to insist upon their doing so, as even he was at the mercy of the labor unions. He wanted no strike on his hands, so he simply looked and mentally "cussed" the elevator for giving out at such an inopportune time. But Mary had resources within herself. Charley Stump and John Robbins had come over with the luggage, and, knowing the ladies were anxious for their trunks, set to work to carry the trunks up and for an hour made hard work of their pleasure. About the time the last trunk was on its way up, the cranky elevator was repaired and enabled to make regular trips. There had been as yet no arrangement made for our meals. The Seven' Oaks Hotel had been engaged on the American plan and the San Marco was run upon the European plan. There was a restau- rant upon the first floor of the building, however, and after some dickering the Committee was able to make arrangements with the proprietor for our meals. We found a part of Kadosh Commandery also rooming at the San Marco, while more of them were located around the corner on Post street. Some of their ladies who were in the vestibule seemed more than astonished when Mrs. Allen walked into the big hotel and greeted her very effusively and pointed her out to some who did not know her. An explanation of this followed a little later when some of them told Mclntyre that it had been currently reported all the way down from Portland to Los Angeles that Mrs. Allen had died in the Yellowstone and that they had unwittingly written home to that effect four or five days before when they had heard the report. It became necessary to head this report off by telegraphing to Philadelphia to her family at once that we had arrived safely at San Francisco with all well. While Chairman Allen was in the telegraph office he saw a messenger boy about to start out with a telegram for Theo. Lines which he took charge of and promised to deliver at once. Returning to the San Marco he handed it to Lines, who finished reading a letter he was perusing before opening the telegram. When he did so he reeled and fell as if struck by lightning. He was raised and placed upon a seat, where his emotion became heartrending. It was then found that the dispatch announced the accidental death of a favorite son who had. unfortunately shot himself while on a gunning expedi- tion down in Maine. The letter he had been reading had been written to him by this same son and the reading of it was followed immediately by that of the telegram announcing his death. Of course arrangements had to be made for himself and Mrs. Lines to return to Brooklyn by the first train. This was not accomplished for some little time, although McCoy made every effort in his behalf, as it was impossible to get sleeper accommodations on any train until evening. We were thus deprived of two of our most pleasant members and a gloom cast over the entire party. They had been delightful traveling companions, and Theo. Lines was ever genial and always ready to lend his aid in making things pleasant for all. Labor and its parade interfered very seriously with the working 93 plans of the restaurant which had engaged to feed us. They had also evidently been accustomed to feeding about sixty people per day and to have a hundred and fifty per meal thrown upon their hands, with a shortage of waiters, placed them at a great disadvan- tage. In reality it was a case where the guests became the longest waiters at luncheon time. The fare was all right, but the service was undoubtedly slower than slow, but we lived through it. Some of the party got tired of waiting and hunted up a "home restaurant" around on Post street. There they enjoyed or claimed to enjoy a country dinner, but the proprietor also bemoaned the absence of his head cook and some of his waiters who had gone to the labor picnic. The first sight of the handsome bathroom accommodations attached to each room was a most welcome one and begat an instan- taneous desire on everybody's part to make use of them. The accumulations of a couple of weeks had to be gotten rid of and the sound of running water filled the air, but the resources of the water company were equal to the occasion and there was no scarcity. The pilgrims lost no time after getting their first meal in start- ing upon their sight-seeing trips. Some took carriages and rode around to inspect the buildings down town and the elaborate Templar decorations which were displayed in every direction. Others took the ordinary cable cars, while some secured the observation cars of which a specialty seems to be made in all the Western cities. Those who went out to the Clifif House and Seal Rocks had a unique experi- ence in addition to the ordinary attractions of the place. Thousands of people had gathered there of whom the majority were visiting Templars and their ladies. A schooner had been run onto the beach in a fog during the previous evening. The crew of the United States Life Saving Station were assisting the crew of the vessel in trying to work her ofif the shore. While the work was going on another heavy fog rolled in from the ocean and in an incredibly short time the warm and sultry air that had characterized the after- noon had given way to a cool air that made light overcoats extremely desirable and comfortable. Many of the San Francisco ladies, who were accustomed to the lightning changes of the climate, had come prepared with furs which they donned and found very comfortable. The fog in a few minutes hid the stranded vessel and the operation of getting her afloat could no longer be witnessed. The Sutro Baths, probably the largest and finest bathing estab- lishment in the world, also came in for a share of admiration by the large number of visitors, many of whom tOok advantage of an opportunity to enjoy a bath in the waters of the Pacific Ocean. The handsome statuary and beautiful flowers and plants of the Sutro Garden were another source of pleasure to the assembled crowds. In another direction, Chinatown with its curious inhabitants, who could not be divided as to sex because you could not tell one from the other by their dress, its odd and in many cases finely stocked stores, its conglomeration of old barracks, iron and wooden bal- conies and varied assortment of ill-smelling localities, was crowded 94 with foreign visitors who came to see or to purchase curious sou- venirs to be carried to Eastern cities. By 6 P. M. tlie majority of the sight-secrs had returned to the hotel for dinner and to make preparations to attend some of the numerous receptions to be held during the evening. (Jne of these was to be given by the Grand Commandery of Penns\ Ivania at the Palace Hotel. Mary had been requested to contribute eight ladies to assist at the ceremonies. Mrs. Allen, Mrs. Stewart, Mrs. Bair, Mrs. Holt, Mrs. Ray, Miss Heist, Mrs. Henderson and Mrs. Hinckle had been detailed for that purpose and all the others resolved to attend the reception for the honor of the old Keystone State. The attendance thereat was exceedingly large and for four hours the crowds in the corridors of the hotel advanced only by inches, while many turned and worked their way back, despairing of ever getting into the reception parlors. Once inside there was a beautiful picture in the line of Grand Ofificers and their ladies, who were holding up ^^^ wKKtmm^-^^.^^ ,, ''IH Entrance to Sutro Baths the reputation of Pennsylvania, headed by Grand Commander Wilson I. Fleming and his lovely wife. Col. Lewis E. Beitler, of Pilgrim Commandery No. ii, of Harrisburg, was Master of Cere- monies, and did the handsome by introducing the Grand Commander to the visitors. In the adjoining parlor were stationed the ladies who assisted to see that all visitors got their share of refreshments and were then passed out by another route to the court of the hotel. By the way, this was, on our former visit to the city, a carriage con- course by which you could drive right into the body of the hotel. It had now been cut off and floored over to make an immense and finely furnished waiting room. Our ladies were relieved of duty and gave way to other details after one hour's service, so that all parts of the State could be represented in the evening's festivities. Other receptions were afterward attended, notably that of Fresno Commandery at Pythian Hall. Here we looked in vain for any of the Sir Knights who had extended the whole-souled hospi- tality of their city to us twelve years ago. While their reception 95 to-night was just as full of kindness and fraternal feeling we missed the familiar faces. Quite a number of California Commanderies held forth at the Mechanic's Pavilion. This was beautifully dec- orated and lighted up, and contained a large number of booths, pre- sided over by beautiful young ladies who did their best to force upon you grapes, fruits, flowers and wines of California production, as well as ice cream and cakes of all kinds. The centre circle was reserved for dancers, for whom a large orchestra furnished music. The crowd of people upon Market and the adjacent streets was simply phenomenal. On both sides the sidewalks were solidly filled and the lines extended nearly as far into the street on either side. The people of the city, as well as the visitors, turned out en masse, to witness the electrical display. Too much cannot be said in praise of the beauty and costliness of this. No city of this country ever undertook to illuminate on such a gigantic scale and never before were such lavish decorations erected. The citizens in gen- eral, as well as the Sir Knights, contributed liberally to the display. Electric lights were not to be noted by the hundred, but by thou- sands and tens of thousands. On Market street, from the ferry building for a distance of two and a half miles up, it seemed as though the street was roofed in with a canopy of electric lights and the street was made as bright as by daylight. Every business house, office building and hotel on this main thoroughfare was finely dec- orated with Templar colors. Templar and other Masonic emblems, all beautifully lined out with colored bulbs. It was a knightly welcome from the California Templars to their fraters from all parts of the country and was appreciated and applauded to the echo. The ferry building at the foot of Market street was resplendent with thousands of green lights which cleverly outlined the high tower and front of the building. On the tower, and visible from all parts of the city, was a huge Maltese cross of red lights. From this ferry depot, where the general scheme of illuminations began, the scene was a brilliant one. Facing it the first thing to attract attention was the word Welcome in lights stretched across the wide street. On either side, about thirty feet apart, were towering white masts, each bearing several dozen of American flags cleverly arranged. From these masts strings of lights were artistically draped across the street. The Masonic Temple further up and just off Market street was ablaze with illuminated Masonic and Templar designs, representing the Blue Lodge, Chapter, Templar and Con- sistory branches of the Order. At the intersection of Market, Geary and Kearney streets was suspended an imposing illumination containing more than 8000 lights. This design was in the shape of an immense bell built of wrought iron. The lower rim alone is said to have weighed eight 96 tons and was forty feet in diameter. Strings of lights radiated from this to the centre far overhead, forming the Hnes of the bell. In the centre of the apex was a large Maltese cross in various colored lights. Below, suspended in the mouth of the bell, was a huge red passion cross and crown with the motto "In hoc signo vinces." x'Vround the inside and outside of the lower rim were many other emblems in colors of every variety. It was one of the handsomest and costliest decorations ever erected. A Court of Honor, constructed of white columns, festooned with the National and Templar colors, extended along Market street for some distance on either side of the bell. Similar bell efifects, but not so elaborate in construction, were to be San Francisco Electric Design witnessed at some of the other intersections. The City Hall was outlined with lights from tower to basement, and made one of the prettiest pictures imaginable. It afforded quite a contrast to the skinny strings of lights set out on oi^r own City Hall buildings at decoration times. It was late to-night, near morning in fact, before Mary's tired and weary "pilgrims" reached their hotel after attending receptions' and viewing the decorations and crowds upon the streets. Still some of the male contingent were not satisfied and formed a party to see Chinatown after the midnight hour had struck. The services of the king of the guides were secured and for three hours the 97 tour of back alleys, dark passages, joss houses, gambling dens, opium joints and other spectacular scenes peculiar to Chinatown, was made. The reformers had been raiding the district for some weeks in advance of the Conclave and it was found difficult to gain admission to all places desired. The aid of the police had to be invoked at times and they used the Chinks with scant ceremony. It was after 3 A. M. when the last party returned to the hotel, all tired enough to get quickly to their rooms and gain a few hours' rest for the duties and pleasures of the morrow. Ashland Girls 98 Tuesday, September 6, 1 904 HIS was a bright and clear morning, but it had got warm during the night, contrary to the usual habits of the brand of weather handed out in San Francisco. W e were accused repeatedly by the natives, during the next few days, of having brought the un- usual temperature with us from the East. Judg- ing from the determined manner with which it followed us around, after leaving Yellow- stone Park, there might seem to be some founda- tion for the charge. With but four exceptions Mary's remaining pilgrims were early at the breakfast table this morning. These were Maneely and his wife, who had gone to stay with a sister who was resident here, and Judd and JMatos who never woke up until the strains of the band, which preceded the Commandery in the Trien- nial Parade, were heard in the street below. By the time they had got up and dressed the boys were off and the laggards were forced to follow to their place in line. At the breakfast table a pleasant surprise was sprung on every- body by the presentation to each one of a handsome souvenir card bearing the counterfeit presentment of Capt. Eiler as Adjutant and Drill Master of Mary Commandery No. 36, K. T., with the familiar words, "Fall in. Sir Knights," printed below. At the top of the cards were the National and Philadelphia city colors embossed in colors and in the lower left-hand corner the date September 6th, 1904. The souvenir evidently came from home from some one who desired the Captain and his men to give a good account of them- selves in the gathering of the hosts to-day. The sword and banner cases in the basement of the hotel were opened at an early hour and, as soon as breakfast was over, the i-of a 99 work of donning equipments and swords began. The heat was in- creasing in intensity as Eiler lined up his command in front of the San Marco at a Httle after 9 A. M. The band engaged for the parade had made its appearance promptly and headed the march to the place allotted Mary in line. There were thirty-eight men on parade, including the officers. The increasing heat deterred some of the others from taking their places in the line. Past Commander Heist had been requested by Grand Commander Fleming to act as one of his aides and thereby secured a horseback ride. p. E. SIR GEORGE EILER, JR. ADJUTANT AND ORI /lARY COMMANDEHV No. 36, K ASTER , PENNSYLVANIA Seats had been secured for some of our ladies upon one of the grand-stands on Van Ness avenue and several of the Mary guidons were entrusted to their care, with which they promised to salute and cheer on the command when it should reach their station. Be it said right here that they kept their promise in grand style, although suffering intensely with the heat and the rough accommo- dations all the time. As the parade was not to start until lo A. M. and would probably not reach the stand until after 12 M., the ladies had some little time during the morning" to continue their siiopping and see more of the city. The two sound sleepers were just able to catch the command before it took its place in the line of parade. Mary was fortunate in having been able to secure a band, as many Commanderies were obliged to parade without. Pennsylvania had the honor of being the only State, outside of California, that was assigned a division of its own. It was the Fifth and, according to all reports of the press and spectators, Pennsylvania made a fine showing in line. Following Grand Commander Fleming and his staff came Corinth- ian Chasseur Commandery on black horses, as escort, and the fol- The Grand Commander's Aid lowing commands on foot in the order named: Pittsburg No. i. of Pittsburg; De Molay No. 9, of Reading; Pilgrim No. 11, of Harris- burg; Northern No. 16, of Towanda ; Coeur de Lion No. 17, of Scranton ; Allen No. 20, of Allentown ; Baldwin 2d No. 22, of Wil- liamsport ; Kadosh No. 29, of Philadelphia ; Allegheny No. 35, of Allegheny City ; Mary No. 36, of Philadelphia ; Reading No. 42. of Reading ; Tancred No. 49, of Pittsburg ; Melita No. 68, of Scranton, and Mt. Vernon No. y^, of Hazelton. Beside these a number of other commands were represented by individual members who paraded with other organizations. It was a creditable showing for a State three thousand miles away and Grand Commander Fleming had a right to be proud of his following. The parade was started from Geary and Kearney streets and moved over Pine, Mont- gomery and Market streets to Van Ness avenue, and down or up that street, for it was up-hill all the way, for seventeen blocks, and countermarched back to Market street. The route was scheduled as about five miles in length, but the heat and the hills made it seem twice that length. The march up the steep incline of Taylor street, which was necessary to reach the hotel, was the last straw that broke the camel's back. From a spectacular point of view the parade was a great suc- cess and acocrding to press reports there were about 12,000 men in line, but these are always subject to be freely discounted. At the head of the column rode our old acquaintance, Grand Captain General Chas. L. Field, as chief marshal, with his staff, followed by 600 mounted Templars of California Commandery No. i, all on black horses. They made a grand sight in their showy uniforms and black velvet cape and acted as escort to Most Eminent Sir Henry Bates Stoddard, Grand Master of the Grand Encampment of the United States, and the Most Eminent the Earl of Euston, Grand Master of the Great Priory of England, who was officially repre- senting King Edward of England at the Conclave. Golden Gate Commandery No. 16, which also had a mounted division, followed the carriages containing other representatives of the King of Eng- land and the Officers of the Grand Encampment. The fraters of Boston Commandery No. i, of Massachusetts, whom we had met in the Yellowstone and who had brought their band from Boston, marched to the place of formation this morning and" then marched back to their hotel. They were entitled by age and number to the right of the line of their State division and found a younger com- mandery occupying that position. The Marshal of the division refused to grant them the coveted place and the Grand Marshal refused to interfere, so Boston declined to parade, but had a parade of their own a day or two later. Everywhere along the line of march Mary's Sir Knights, forty strong and most generally in two divisions, were accorded rounds of applause and thousands of people, seeing the name upon the banner and guidons, cheered for Mary continuously. Capt. Eiler drilled his command along the entire route and made a fine show- ing, being himself almost overcome at the end of the parade by his own exertions. Passing the grand stand where the Mary ladies were seated, they were given an enthusiastic reception by them which spread to the other occupants of the stand as well as to the crowds on the street. As they passed in review before the Grand Master and the Earl of Euston it is safe to say that they presented a very creditable appearance so far as military bearing was concerned. It was after i P. M. and Mary's Knights, despite the weather, kept their place in line until the entire column had passed. Then the Commandery marched back to the San Marco, hot, tired, dusty, thirsty and hungry, with the usual number of Knights declaring. as they had often declared before, that this was the last parade that would find them in line. However, after a good bath and luncheon they felt refreshed and, although a few laid themselves down to rest, the majority were off again to see 'Frisco. Reference must be made here to the boundless hospitality that had been extended to us by the Grand Commandery of California. Just after reaching the hotel yesterday we had been presented with a program of the amusements and entertainments set down for us for the entire week, together with invitations to the same, with which were included car and railroad tickets, tickets for the Chinese play going on at the Opera House, excursions on the steamers on the bay, also across the bay and up Mt. Tamalpais. There were so many of these diversions that no pilgrim could find time to take them all in during the four short days we had allotted for our stay in this city. Carriage rides, trolley rides to the Cliff House, Sutro Baths, Golden Gate Park and the military reservation at the Presidio were indulged in during the rest of the afternoon by some. Chinatown of course had its full share of devotees and some who made excur- sions on the Bay steamers crowded to the rails declared the heat to be greater on the water than it was on shore. An old-fashioned hot wave, with which our people were all more or less familiar, was sweeping over this section of the country and the natives were experiencing the hottest weather known to the records of the local weather bureau and had the promise of more to come. Under pres- sure of the heat our pilgrims tried to find places where ice cream or cold soda water might be purchased. Such commodities are evidently not staple articles, as at home, as there was little to be had in the city unless specially ordered. Still they did not suffer a great deal from the heat, as the air was dry and caused little per- spiration. The packages that came in with the crowd at dinner time to- night from various shopping expeditions would almost have served to start a country store, and when several large packing cases arrived by wagon the assortment seemed almost complete. It began to look as though the train had better be provided with a flexible baggage car. It did not get any cooler toward evening as is usual in this climate, but the heat continued straight ahead into the night. The service in the restaurant had improved to-day and it was possible to get a meal in about the usual hotel time. After dinner everybody was off downtown again. Receptions without number were again in progress, but the principal attractions were the open houses of the California State Commanderies. The Grand Master held a reception at the Palace Hotel, as did our fraters of Pittsburg No. i. Many of Mary's members had plenty of friends in No. I and there were many pleasant reunions at their reception. The throng of last night was repeated in the hotel corridors and the approaches thereto, while locomotion was just as difficult. 103 On Market street the jam was worse than ever. Every vehicle on wheels had been pressed into service, from express wagons and trucks up, and were loaded down with sightseers. It was impossible to secure a carriage for love or money and most of the visits had to be paid on foot. At all the California headquarters fruits, wine and grapes were to be had in unlimited quantities, and Fresno was furnishing all callers with neat badges and pressed boxes of seedless raisins. The electric illuminations lost none of their gran- deur or beauty through repetition and were a constant marvel to the beholder. Golden Gate's reception or open house deserves more than passing notice. Their building was finely illuminated on the front with huge electrical devices. Back of the reception rooms on the main floor was a large ballroom for dancing, where an orchestra was constantly providing music Tor that diversion. Up stairs were many tables with, seats for from four to eight persons, where you could sit comfortably, call for and enjoy any of the refreshments provided. Plenty of waiters made this possible for large crowds. Our visit there was made memorable by the kind- ness of Sir Knight Cornelius Toohey, of Golden Gate, who was one of those publicly decorated by the Earl of Euston for activity on escort duty, along with our old acquaintance, Billy Edwards, of the same command. It was well on to midnight before any of the party returned to the hotel, although it had been a hard day on everybody. The heat continued through the night and open windows were neces- sary to make the rooms comfortable. 104 Wednesday, September 7, 1904 OT ! Hotter ! ! Hottest ! ! Thus the weather might be truthfully described since our advent in the Conclave City. Our en- joyment of our time in 'Frisco, outside of the weather, was perfect. The night had been hot and close all through, a thing unprecedented in the weather annals, and the weather forecast this morning was for a continuation of the heat. In this the Western forecaster excelled his Philadelphia brother in that his prediction not only came true, but the weather he furnished was a record-breaker. Still the pilgrims were early on deck as usual, notwithstanding they had retired late and tired. The ladies seemed to be standing the strain as well if not better than the men. Quite a number of them were nearly exhausted last night between sight-seeing, shopping and long walks in the evening, but they turned out this morning looking as fresh as roses in June. Everyone seemed determined not to lose a minute, except the time spent in trying to get meals, and to see all that was to be seen. At 7 A. M. when we assembled for breakfast the thermometer stood at 85. The morning was perfectly clear and it was apparent to all when the sun showed himself over the mountains across the bay that he meant business. By 2 P. M. the mercury had risen above the century mark. It was the general impression among the resident San Franciscans that the city was in for some earthquake shocks, wdiich they say are pretty sure to follow a hot spell. But they did not materialize during the balance of our stay. If they had, we should have probably put them down on the list among the other entertainments provided by our hosts. It sounded rather comical to us to hear some of the lady residents say that they much preferred an earthquake to a thunder storm, which they rarely 105 have and dread to hear of. Had we been at home these days with the mercury chasing around the lOO mark there would have been little going out of doors for the ladies. As it was, the hotel was at once deserted after the conclusion of each meal. Many took in the bay trips and Mt. Tamalpais to-day and, like the others, insisted it was hotter on the water than ashore. The steamers took them around to view the different fortified stations in the bay, but they were not allowed to land, as the government forbids it. The big feature of to-day was the competitive drill held in Golden Gate Park for the magnificent prizes offered by the Cali- fornia fraters, who took no part in the competition, although giving exhibition drills. Some of the pilgrims went out there .with the idea Strawberry Lake, Golden Gate Park that cool breezes might be found in the Park. In this they were disappointed, but they enjoyed a fine treat in the drills and the sight of the 25,000 people who congregated to witness them. For nearly four hours the drills continued and the prize winners were certainly entitled to all they received, including the glory. When Louisville Commandery marched onto the field they were met by a score of Southern ladies who waved their colors of black and red before them and scattered innumerable flowers in their path. Whether this spurred them on is uncertain, but it was certain that they cap- tured the first prize. It was also certain that when they returned to their quarters victorious every one of the girls had to be kissed twenty-nine times, that being the number of the squad. The judges 106 of the competition were three United States Army officers and their awards seemed to meet with the approval of the spectators, which does not always happen. Louisville Commandery No. 2, of Louisville, was finally awarded the first prize of a massive punch set of beaten copper, finely inlaid Alle Cha with gold and silver. St. Bernard No. 35, of Chicago, took the second prize, a silver fortress, surmounted by a world sphere, which in turn supported the figure of a Knight Templar, The third prize was awarded to Ivanhoe No. 24, of Milwaukee, and consisted of a 107 silver clock on an onyx pedestal. Malta No. 21, of Binghamton, N. Y., was content with the fourth prize of a silver tray with twenty- seven goblets to match. The luncheon hour brought most of the pilgrims together again, only to see them scatter again for the afternoon. Each lady found awaiting her a basket containing much fruit and a small bottle of wine as a present from California Commandery No. i. The ladies of Kadosh and some who were staying there as members of a Ver- mont delegation were treated in a similar manner. All the ladies had also been provided with cards which entitled them to a hand- some souvenir plate from Pittsburg Commandery No. i, when pre- sented at their headquarters at the California Hotel. They were not slow in availing themselves of the privilege or in endeavoring to secure an extra one for some friend at home. During the afternoon and at dinner whenever two or more pil- grims gathered together, there had been mutterings about the way some things had been managed on the pilgrimage. These mutterings* finally resulted in a call for a meeting of the entire party in one of the hotel parlors at 7.30 P. M., when the chairman of the com- mittee would be called upon to explain matters. Promptly at the hour mentioned the pilgrims assembled in the parlor and Chairman Allen was sent for. When he inquired for what purpose, he was informed that a certain matter needed some explanation. When he made his appearance in the parlor and found the entire band of pil- grims assembled, he wondered not a little thereat. When Eminent Commander Stewart started in with a serious expression of coun- tenance to state that the entire assemblage had a grievance to pre- sent, he was requested by the chairman to "spit it out." He then proceeded to say that while up to this time everything had been very harmonious, they were now given to understand that to-day was the Chairman's birthday and that he had neglected to apprise anyone of the fact. Nevertheless every pilgrim was desirous of his having some remembrance of this particular anniversary and he had been delegated to present to Sir Knight Allen a handsomely carved Japanese reception chair as a token of their extreme and loving friendship. The chair up to this time had been, occupied by two of the ladies who now arose and revealed it to the astonished recipient. For several minutes the applause of the pilgrims prevented any reply being made. When comparative quiet was secured no words of response would come to the relief of the Chairman who broke down entirely. Mrs. Allen crossed the room to his side and also gave vent to her feelings. For a few moments there was a sympa- thetic overflow all over the room and then for the next ten minutes the chairman was kept busy receiving the congratulations of the pilgrims and their best wishes for continued health and happiness. Mrs. Mclntyre then presented to Mrs. Allen a gold thimble as a memento of the happy occasion. There was a grand ball given by California Commandery No. i this evening at the Mechanics' Pavilion, which had been magnifi- cently redecorated for the occasion. Being also headquarters for about twenty other California commanderies, a tour of the building was very interesting. It was almost a State Exposition, as the Tem- plars from all parts of the State had brought with them specimens of the particular products of their section and used them for decora- tive effects as well as for general distribution. Fruits were, of course, the mainstay, but minerals played no unimportant part, as did also grapes and wines. The large dancing floor in the centre was finely decorated with bunting and illuminated with colored lights. Autumn foliage was also lavishly made use of and gave a pretty effect. It was said that more than 10,000 people passed through the portals of the Pavilion to-night. There was also a Ladies' Reception at the Palace Hotel, which had pretty nearly as many callers. As on previous evenings Market and adjacent streets were black with people, who were again viewing the illuminations and were all still charmed by the dazzling scene. Nothing was heard except expressions of admiration and satisfac- tion that we were on the spot to behold such a sight or regret that no picture of the same could be had to do it justice. Upon returning to the hotel, many of the pilgrims found in their last batch of mail the notice of the meeting of Mary Com- mandery, containing orders to report at 7 o'clock to-morrow night in the Asylum. Recorder McCune had mailed them just in time and received in return a telegram to be read in the Commandery at its meeting extending the knightly greetings of the Officers and Sir Knights who were representing them at the other side of the Continent. There were few of the pilgrims who had any desire to prolong the night's labors far beyond the midnight hour. It had been a long day, a busy day and a hot day, but withal a most pleasant day and evening. 109 Thursday, September 8, 1 904 NOTHER hot morning greeted the awakening pilgrims this morning. But there was no dis- position to fret on ac- count of the weather. That was only an inci- dent of the trip and taken in as a necessary part of it. As soon as breakfast had been dis- posed of the entire party was again in motion. This was the last chance for shopping in the Con- clave City and its de- votees were numerous, although there was a number who had left the bay trips for to-day as well as excursions on the Key route. For a ten-dollar bill you could secure a special trolley car that would be switched for you over all the lines in town and give a good general idea of San Francisco and its surroundings. Not all of the ladies had yet secured their Pittsburg souvenir plates and it remained for Billy Matos and Chairman Allen to gather' up the unused tickets this morning and carry several pounds of chinaware from the California Hotel to the San Marco. By a lucky meeting with Herman Junker and his fellow-committeeman, Earley, they were enabled to make some addition to the stock for a few of the regulars who had been unable to get with us on this pilgrimage. Several instances were seen on the street this morning of the extent to which the trade unions abuse their power in this city. In front of a large store at one point and a livery stable at another, a man was marching up and down the sidewalk bearing aloft a hug-e placard on a pole containing a warning not to patronize the party inside, as he was "unfair." That such things could be done without any interference from the police force seemed strange to us from the East, but attracted little attention here. By the way, the police force of San Francisco was the most unanimous body on one point we have ever seen. They know nothing- whatever. They neither know the location of any buildings nor the direction of streets, and made no secret of their ignorance. Chinatown was again invaded in force this morning, Mclntyre and John Keen had a great time inducing one of Sing Fat's chinks, who had sold them the chair yesterday, to redeem his promise to go up to the hotel and pack the chair for shipment. They had him coralled several times as they thought, but he managed to give them the slip every time. It was only after Mac raised a regular Irish row in the store and invoked the aid of the police that the Chinaman went along with them and performed the promised duty and did it in good shape. Luncheon as usual found pretty much all hands back at the hotel and they began to show signs of the strenuous time they had had for four days by lingering longer over their midday meal. Before leaving the hotel again it was necessary for all baggage to be packed to give the porters a chance to get it down to the street during the afternoon. This was not as easy a matter as it sounds, because of the additional room that had to be made for souvenirs without end. In the absence of elastic trunks various trials and retrials had to be made until the obstinate packages would take the required shape and close enough to allow the trunk lid to come down close enough for the man to sit upon it until it was locked. Some had already bought additional telescopes and suit cases, and even sent packing cases to the hotel to go with our baggage, so that our departure required one more wagon load than our advent. Of course the Commissary had some boxes of his own to look after, which he was specially interested in seeing carefully loaded. The reasons for this we were to learn later in the day. The afternoon was again utilized by some of the sightseers who made a trip to the University of California, where the Officers of that institution had been giving continual receptions to the visit- ing Sir Knights and ladies. Six o'clock was the dinner hour and it found everyone on hand for the farewell meal at the San Marco. Dinner over, there was no disposition to wander forth again, although the hour of departure from the Third street station was not fixed until 11.59 P. M. This was further evidence that the best possible use had been made of our four days' visit. All hands were more than tired, but happy in their experience of the Conclave City and its hospital people. Among the last evidence of good feel- ing for Mary was a large case of the boxes of raisins from Fresno Commandery sent to the hotel this afternoon for distribution among the ladies. The latter were mostly content to occupy the chairs in the reading room this evening, some few engaged in writing fare- well letters from 'Frisco, while the Knights lounged around out of doors trying to keep cool. They finally drifted away in squads for the station until by 10 P. M. the last batch had left on the frolleys. They soon came together again at the depot of the Southern Pacific, where they had to while away another hour or more. Several other trains were scheduled ahead of our time and they could not back our train in until some of the others got away. Meanwhile we were enjoying a most unearthly smell for that length of time. Where it came from or what caused it none of the railroad people could or would tell us. If we had still been in the Yellowstone we might have supposed that the Mud Volcano had undergone another eruption. About 10.30 P. M. Commissary Mclntyre, who had located our club car and made some inquiries of John, learned that the express wagons after unloading the baggage had gone off with the boxes of which he had been so especially careful. When asked what was in them, Mac answered, salt. You know our supply of salt had run out and we must have plenty of that commodity. There was telephoning in hot haste and as is usual when the 'phone is badly wanted it was not answered. Mac and John at once boarded a trolley car and went back into town to try and locate the expressman. They reached his office only to find it closed tightly. Going across the street to inquire for his residence, they accidentally stumbled upon the man himself and dragged him away uptown to his stable. There the wagon was found with the nine boxes safely reposing under the high front seat where they had been so carefully stowed away. Of course a dozen other wagons had to be moved to get that one out and the Commissary and his assistant had to pitch in and help. Then the boss told them to get back to the station on the cars and he would see that the wagon followed. But Mac was taking no more chances and he and John stuck to the wagon and the salt until they were landed at the depot. Once arrived, volunteers were called for and nine stalwart Knights each seized a case of salt and marched like a gang of stevedores into the station. Here they deposited their loads and were forced to mount guard over them as an attempt was made by some of our Reading fraters, whose train was side- tracked opposite us, to secure a couple of cases for ballast, in which their train was deficient. Thus the Commissary worked his passage out of San Francisco, from which he departed in a much happier frame of mind than he had gone uptown in a couple of hours before. Promptly at one minute before midnight our special pulled out from the station and our too short, but happy and instructive stay in the Conclave City had come to an end. All our knights and ladies went away delighted with the reception that had been accorded them by our hosts, the Knights Templar of California, and the citizens of San Francisco generally. Nothing but pleasant memories survived aomng us of the Twenty-ninth Triennial Conclave of the Grand Encampment of Knights Templar of the United States. A jovial celebration of the event, as well as the return to the comforts and conveniences of the Commissary car, was kept up in that noisy place until a late or rather early hour. Friday, September 9, 1 904 E HAD only a fifty-mile run during- the night and awoke this morning to find ourselves s i d e - tracked at the city of vSan Jose. This stop was not doM^n on our itiner- ary, but was necessary to reach the Big Trees which had been inchided as one of the sights of our journey. It was pleasant weather early this morning and a num- ber of the early rises took a walk up into the heart of the city, which looks pretty much as it did twelve years ago. The few people on deck at the early hour seemed to all belong to the market houses and fruit stores, apparently the only open doors in town, where fruits and vegetables rioted in size and quantity. St. James Park on our way seemed to be a new fixture in the town. A beautiful feature in it was a fine monument to the late President Mc- Kinley. The park is adorned with many towering palms and other semi-tropical plants. As a health resort this city is very much noted, the temperature in Summer rarely going above 90 degrees. Humidity is an un- known quantity and the nights are invariably cool and pleasant Many residents of San Francisco have their Summer habitation here and journey to and fro to attend to business. Breakfast had been advanced to 6.30 A. M. to have us ready in time for the Narrow Gauge train that was scheduled to take us up the mountains at 8.15 A. M. All the party were up early, al- though retiring so late. At this stage of our journey it is surprising with what rapidity they recover from the fatigue of the preceding day. Eighteen hours constitute a day for most of us, while some strove their best to make it twenty. Ervin Hope is the oldest man in the party and the first on deck every day, next to the cooks in the dining car. But he is too old a bird to use up his day at both ends and retires early. Eiler was one of the second half this morn- ing and took a constitutional alongside the train while waiting for his meal. Hearing words of military command issuing from his lips, we wondered whom he had found to put through a morning drill. Looking out to learn the cause of the commands we found he was drilling a flock of geese that had wandered our way. "For- ward, right and left oblique" came the words, and the geese promptly obeyed, giving Cap. a good deal less trouble than some of the men that he had drilled, as he afterward averred. Directly ne brought his column to a halt while Keen took a snap shot of him and his new command. Park, San Jose At the appointed hour our train was run to the Narrow Gauge depot, where a special train of four cars was boarded for a trip to the Big Tree Grove. We were soon running up the Santa Clara Valley, with its thousands of orchards and vineyards, toward the Santa Cruz mountains. Dark streaks, about a yard wide, on the ground on cither side of the train proved to be prunes drying in the sun on wire frames. There were miles upon miles of them and there seemed to be enough ])runes to supply the world. The weather got extremely hot before we were long on the road and there was considerable dust also. Several tunnels, in which the locomotive developed a bad breath, also contributed to make the pilgrims uncomfortable before the Big Tree Station was reached. 114 Going" up the mountains tiirough the tim1)er and heside a run- ning mountain stream, with a great deal of romantic scenery to be achiiired, made the trip a good deal more endurable, although we were glad to escape from the cars as soon as we arrived at 10.30 A. M. Proceeding at once into the grove, the services of a guide were enlisted and the tour of the Big Trees commenced. They are known scientifically as the Sequoia Sempervirens and are in massive- ness second onl\- to the Sequoias of the Sierras in Yosemite Valley. In the hollow trunk of one of the first trees we stopped at Bill Maneely and nineteen lesser pilgrims concealed themselves. On a Eiler's Morning Drill, San Jose previous visit to the grove forty of our party had gotten into the same tree. Maneely did not make up all the difi^erence, as moie could have gotten in, but did not try. In front of the Giant the camera fiends held up the party while they tried to get a picture of them. Some were successful and some were not. The voluble guide would have been talking to this day if the party w^ould have stood to listen to him. Each of the Big Trees had a history which had been wound up in him and had to come forth from him at a certain gait and to a certain amount before he could be induced to move on. Some of the trees are certainly remarkable for height and girth, being over three hundred feet in height and upwards of sixty feet in circumference. As to age some of the stumps show by their rings an age of four thousand years. Having been late in our arrival, our time was necessarily cut somewhat short, although we might have made it longer if we had known of a subsequent delay to which we were to be subjected. On our return trip we were held up at Los Gatos Station, a sort of picnic ground to which the people of San Jose resort. Here an excursion of Foresters, who were celebrating Admission Day, the anniversary of the day upon which California was admitted to the Union, was arriving in several sections, compelling us to wait until all had arrived. Big Trees, Santa Cruz Mountains Meanwhile the weather was growing hotter and the mercury in the cars was rapidly nearing the century mark. The enforced wait naturally made it seem still hotter. At last we were able to secure a clear track and began the run down the mountains more rapidly than we had come up. The motion of the train made some breeze and it became more bearable. We did not get back to San Jose, from which we were to start for Del Monte, until 1.30 P. M. When we had again boarded our own train and John announced that he had plenty of cold lemonade ready for use, there was a unanimous rush for first aid to the heated. That was only one time that the ladies returned heartfelt thanks to John. Neither was 116 any time lost in tackling the luncheon which was long overdue or in getting- the train under way for Del Monte, our next stopping place. Our way laid mostly through an uninteresting country until 2.30 P. M., when we got near to the coast and struck a most wel- come cool wave. In a short time after the ocean came into view and we enjoved fine breezes, everybody drinking them in as a most welcome change. Still later fogs began to gather along the shore and impeded our view to some extent, but it soon cleared again. It was 4 P. M. before we reached our destination on the siding at Hotel Del Monte. Here we found carriages in waiting to take us on the seventeen-mile drive around the coast. About a dozen had been over the drive before and did not care to go again, but elected to spend the afternoon among the beauties of the hotel grounds. The remainder of the party at once boarded the coaches and left for the drive. They had not gone far before the heavy fogs again rolled in from the ocean and made wraps and overcoats very com- fortable. Where these were not at hand the lap blankets came in play. Chris Judd got so drowsy again that he had to be sand- wiched between two other men to keep him from falling out of the carriage. Their route first led through the old town of Monterey, whose old adobe and historic buildings attracted general attention. Al- though a town of only 2000 inhabitants, it looks most prosperous and they were not surprised to learn that it possesses fine schools, electric lights, a good water system, a bank and a public park, besides an up-to-date trolley line, and is also the site of a large military post. Historically it is credited with being the place where in 1840 a State constitution was framed and with being the first capital of the State. Here w^re erected the first brick and frame buildings and estab- lished the first post office and theatre in California. After leaving the town the route ran through Pacific Grove, which is quite a well patronized seaside resort. Lake Majella, Moss lieach, the clashing currents at Point Joe, Seal Rocks which a num- ber of seals and seagulls inhabited, and Cypress Point with its crooked and distorted cypress trees or cedars of Lebanon, which some insist on calling them, were all points of interest on the drive. The black rocks, the swirling currents and the masses of dark sea- weed floating with the waves made the rock-bound coast very pic- turesque. It was not quite so picturesque when the leading coach contracted the old complaint known as a hot box and delayed the procession nearly a half hour. After monkeying with it for that length of time its occupants deserted it and distributed themselves among the other coaches. The fog by this time was falling almost like rain and the pilgrims, becoming chilled through, urged the drivers to take the shortest cut for home. At 6 P. M. they struck the grounds of the hotel and were driven partly through them to enjoy some of the magnificently kept lawns and flower beds and 117 then straight to the train where dinner was awaiting them and warmed them up again. The party that had remained in the gardens spent a very enjoyable time in and around the hotel. The Del Monte, w^hich is well known to travelers from all over the world, is set in the midst of a tract of one hundred and sixty acres of fine old woodland, principally oaks. Some of the old live oaks, with the hanging mqss upon their limbs remind one of the Southern swamp lands. In front of the hotel the gardeners had grown all kinds of flowering plants into Masonic and Templar designs out of compliment to the numerous Commanderies expected to v*sit them this year. Nearby was the Arizona Garden filled with innumerable species of cactus of all shapes and sizes. Palms of immense size were plentiful, rare trees with scientific names attached and curious foliage abounded, and great beds of hydrangeas with blooms of large size lent variety to the scene. Keen had his kodak with him and took various pic- tures of the party here. ^m. ..^ pi ktM ^ -^rj*-'* ?;.. % %_ : \c.*.:.«.^. «i' ' * '"'* ^0^ fg^ V '3 Del Monte Maze But the greatest attraction was the Del ]\Ionte maze, formed of evergreen hedges as walls, rising one above the other until the centre wall loomed surmounted by growing figures like crosses and circles. It is said to be modeled after one of the same kind at Hampton Court in England. Two of Uncle Sam's soldiers were whiling away the afternoon in the gardens. They had mastered the intricacies of the maze and Charley Stump soon became their equal if not superior in that respect. His first attempts to learn the route were frustrated by Mclntyre, who followed in his footsteps and either picked up or shifted the pieces of paper with which he en- deavored to mark the proper turning corners. With guides who knew their road all the party found their way to the centre court and out again, although it required a walk of nearly a mile to cover the whole grounds. In the centre they found a lady with a baby coach and child, who had vainly tried time after time to find her way out and always came back to the same point. She had been waiting there some time, and gladly welcomed our advent, but stuck very ii8 closely to us all the way out. One of our colored porters had been here early in the Spring. Hearing so much talk about the maze he determined to look in, which he accordingly did about 5 P. M. He remained there until 8 A. M. the next day, when he was missed and a party sent out to search for him. The people on his train spent the night at the hotel and did not miss him. Going back to the train one of the party spied a century plant in bloom at some little distance across the garden. After enjoying the novelty for some little time, word was taken back to the train about it, to which the coaching party had now returned. It was growing dusk, but nearly all the party walked back to view the sight as one they might never see again, x^fter dinner a large num- ber spent the evening at the hotel and in the club house adjoining, where a number of games of ten pins were bowled both by Knights and ladies. Here Chris Judd was nodding in a chair on the hotel porch and was invited by one of the bell-boys to adjourn to his room, as sleeping on the porch was not allowed. It was well on to midnight when they broke away from the pleasures of the hotel and left for their train. Here the maze was again the subject of conversation and some of the ladies expressed a desire to explore it. Stump raked out some railroad lanterns and led several parties through with their aid until nearly i A. M. Two of the colored staff were with one party and when Petzoldt declared he saw a rattlesnake they stuck very closely to the light all the way out. Finally all the night owls returned to their home and sought the shelter of their berths for some much needed rest. So ended another busy, pleasant and profitable day in California. rig Saturday, September 1 0, 1 904 HE weather was foggy and damp this morn- ing. We had expected to leave our berth at Del Monte at 4 A. M. and be well out on the coast line before we woke up. Instead of these arrangements be- ing carried out we had again been hoodooed by our old friends from Williamsport and Scranton. They were still behind us, but had started in on the single track of the branch road before we could get out and had de- layed us for two hours again. But all things come to those who wait and we finally emerged from our trap at Castroville onto the main line of the Southern Pacific and started down the coast. There were many sound sleepers throughout the train this morning and a disposition was manifested to lie abed until threatened willi the loss of breakfast. It was 8.15 A. M. before the sun broke through the fog and lent a charming radiance to the mountain scenery of the Coast Range, up which we were working with two engines in front of us once more. One side of the train overlooked a pastoral country, full of cattle ranches, fruit orchards and grain farms. Irrigating ditches cut the landscape in every direction and made the country look like a huge checker-board. On the other side of the train was the mountain range with wild and romantic crags rising away above our heads. When you got your fill of either kind of scenery you had only to change to the other side to enjoy an entirely different brand. Prairie dogs were plentiful along the road and ran to the top of their burrows to sit up in their comical fashion and watch the passing of the train. Kear Salinas we saw the great Spreckels sugar factory, one of the largest in the world, where 300,000 tons of sugar beets are crushed dail\ in the season. A model town, school and post office adjoin the factory, peopled by the families of the employes. At lo A. M. a progressive euchre was started at the dining car tables with forty participants, the committee having issued invitations for the same in the early morning. For an hour and a half the players thoroughly enjoyed their games under the novel conditions. The ladies' prizes were awarded to Mrs. Wells and Miss Robinson, while those for the gentlemen fell to the lot of Ollie Price and John Bowker. At II A. M. we neared the mountain summit and passed through another series of tunnels, seven in all. Here the scenery was very wild, although our elevation was but a thousand feet. The weather had again become dry and much warmer. At San Luis Obispo, where we made a short stop to change engines, we inquired for our old friend, John Williams, formerly of Fresno, but now United States weather observer at the point. He had left the station but a few minutes previously and we missed connecting with him. We were provided here with a bum engine which broke down before we had gone a mile and we had to await the arrival of another, which meant the loss of another hour. If we had suffered this at the station we might have had a view of the first of the old Spanish Missions, founded in 1772, which is here located. Shortly after getting started again we ran past hundreds of acres of sugar beets. At 1.30 P. M. a strong and welcome breeze from the ocean again struck us and at 2.15 P. M. we emerged from a defile along- side the Pacific Ocean. From this point the scenery was very fine and ever changing. We spent a remarkably pleasant afternoon and at 5 P. M. ran into Santa Barbara just four hours late. As 5 P. M. is the hour at which everybody strikes work down here, we had much trouble to get special trolleys for a trip to the Old Mission. Some of the party got impatient, as the hour was getting late, and took what accommodations could be had on the regular cars, while others were fortunate enough to capture a couple of carriages. All managed to get to the Mission at one time, the specials turning up later on. This mission is younger than that of San Louis Obispo, having been built in 1786, but being still in perfect repair. These missions were built at the instance of the old Spanish monks, who came up the coast from Mexico and formed a chain from Monterey down to San Diego. They were located about a day's journey apart by horse or muleback and furnished a resting place for each night for the traveling brother. Our party was escorted through the building by some of the monks who are its sole inhabitants and then to the garden in the rear where Jake Haines profaned the sanctity of the place by working his camera. This did not catch the skull'of one of the departed brethren which is imbedded in the wall above the back door, for what purpose is unknown. After being shown through the building and taking a tramp up a stone stairway as narrow as the proverbial entrance to Heaven. to the belfry, they were invited to one of the monk's cells where rosaries were for sale made of Job's tears, a berry that is grown upon the grounds. Nearly everyone secured one or more, and being asked if they wanted the purchases blessed, asked how long it would take, as our time was limited. His answer of "some minutes" seemed to render the party uncertain as to whether they could wait or not. A more enterprising monk broke in and said he could bless them in a lump in a few short seconds. Trade immediately became more brisk and after sales seemed to be at an end the blessing was quickly performed, or we supposed it was. Being all in Latin, it migfht have been the other wav for all we knew. Convent Garden, Santa Barbara On our return trip many of the party switched off to the beach for a bath. They found the hour too late for a plunge in the surf, but took much comfort in the finely appointed enclosed bathhouse, which was soon ringing with shouts of laughter at the antics of the swimmers. Eiler, Kessler, Heist, Miller, Wells, Brehm, Stewart and a dozen others gave exhibitions of their skill in the water and coming down the steep sliding trough at the rate of a mile a second. Charles Stump was one of the most active swimmers and nothing gave him more satisfaction than to come down the slide on his back with a Santa Barbara urchin sitting on top of him. Bowker backed water after going to the top of the slide and looking down, until the jeers of everybody present drove him up again. Those who attended the baths had a serious time in getting their dinners. Some who knew the appointed hour took dinner at the restaurants in town, while others who went back to the train to take chances had to go into town again for dinner or go hungry. This was quite a risky undertaking as the cars only ran at long intervals after dark. However, all were finally supplied and none missed the train. At ii P. M. our special was again under way for Los Angeles, where we were to spend two days without much chance for idle time. All appreciated this fact and little time was lost after the train started before retiring for the night. Hot Lunch 123 Sunday, September 11,1 904 AYLIGHT found Mary's special side-tracked in the Southern Pacific Station at Los Angeles, where it had been dropped at 4 A. M. Early rising was one feature of the day and the pilgrims were soon outside enjoying the balmy air of a beauti- ful Sunday morning. Before breakfast there was hot haste to find open barber shops in which to sacrifice the hirsute adornments that had been accumu- lating on some of the faces since leaving San Francisco. The union shops appeared to be the latest to get down to business and the so-called scabs conse- quently secured the early trade. Breakfast was to be served at an earlier hour on account of the trip w^e had scheduled to Santa Catalina Island. This required a seventeen-mile railroad ride to San Pedro before the twenty-one miles by steamer could be taken out on the Pacific Ocean. There had been considerable discussion previous to this morn- ing as to whether the trip would be likely to cause sea-sickness and there was some disposition manifested to cut it out on that account. It was impossible to get the exact number of tickets required until almost time for the train to start. The beautiful morning and the little breeze that was blowing finally carried the day for the majority and there was but a round dozen that declined. At 9.10 A. M. the ocean voyagers boarded the train for San Pedro. In laying out our trip we had not counted upon this being a Sunday and conse- quently a holy day. Neither did we make any calculation on the holy day crowd that we found on the train, which was not only crowded to the doors, but beyond the doors down to the bottom steps. The train ran very slowly and made numerous stops, as it appeared to us only to allow the train hands sufificient time to collect 124 the tickets. Upon arriving at the wharf at San Pedro the train was unloaded and it appeared to the unsophisticated as if the jam of people surrounding the gang-plank of the steamer Cabrillo, for which we were booked, was larger than the capacity of the steamer warranted. Much time was occupied in getting the crowd aboard, during which the crowd outside amused themselves by throwing nickels and dimes overboard to be dived for by a number of sunburned urchins who were disporting themselves in the water for that pur- pose. It was w^onderful with what facility they recovered the coins thrown into the water, some of them actually reaching the money before it struck the bottom. One or two of the most active had their mouths so full of nickels that they could not shout or talk. It remained for the less wealthy ones to let out the constant "throw us a nickel, mister," to keep the fun going. Some of the party had a few pennies in their pockets and threw them over. The winners of these prizes came to the surface with the coins in their hands and indignantly threw them back at the crowd, pennies not being current in California except at the Post Ofifice. The water w^as so clear that the urchins could be watched clear to the bottom as they struck out for the spoils. The Cabrillo, however, was like the crowded trolley car, always having room for a few more, and when the crowd had gotten on board they all found accommodations either on the upper or lower decks. At first there was a scarcity of chairs, but the steamer had hundreds stowed away in the hold which were hoisted out by the bougey head porter until all were supplied. Instead of a rough sea which some of the pilgrims had feared to encounter after getting beyond the breakwater, the ocean was as smooth as the proverbial mill pond. The air also was warm and fans were needed rather than extra wraps. A number of the pilgrims invaded the bridge, right under the captain's eye, and were allowed to remain there unmolested. The bulk of them secured chairs on the shady side of the lower deck w^here the sun never touched them during the whole trip. Here they put in the time by singing all the old familiar hymn tunes they could recall, while many of the other passengers joined in. As the steamer ran out through the shallow water it appeared of a pale green color and many of the party remarked that they had always heard that the Pacific was blue. In a very short time they had occasion to laugh at their first impression as the water, when we got a little distance ofT shore, was a most heavenly blue, and so con- tinued all the way over to the island. The pier at Avalon, which is the only spot on the island where a port could be built, was reached at 12.15 P- M., and the crowd got ashore much more quickly than it had been embarked. Two score men and boys, scantily clad, were here repeating the same scene of diving for coins on the outside of the steamer and alongside the pier. The bottom of the bay was plainly 125 visible with immense schools of young fish darting along through the clear water. A special steamer had been secured for our return at 2 P. M., and the word was passed for all who desired to return at that hour to be on hand promptly. Consequently no time was lost by the majority in taking in the principal sights to be seen. There were some, however, who decided that the first duty was to look after the wants of the inner man and hunt up luncheon, in which matter they reckoned without their host. The crowd was so great that lunches were very slowly served and quite a few of them were obliged to remain over until the Cabrillo made her return trip at 6 P. M. The first rush was of course for the glass-bottomed boats, from which to view the Marine Gardens at the bottom of the sea just out- side the bay. These boats have a well built up in the centre some two Avalon, Calalina Island feet high with a plate glass set in at the bottom. Around the well a dozen to fifteen passengers can find room to sit comfortably and look down through the bottom at the wonders to be observed. These are beyond our ability to describe adequately. Sea weeds and marine plants of many colors, some of which were of immense size, covered the bottom in places with a dense growth. Others grew sin- gly and allowed of sandy patches between, which were full of shells of all kinds, fish of many colors, lobsters, and we even saw a devil- fish, or octopus, lying in wait for his prey at one spot. There was an immense number of gold fish of all sizes, which the boatmen said were not good to eat, as they lived ofif the vegetation at the bottom and their meat tasted of it. It is as well that this is so, becaue they darted about in such numbers, and their bright color set oflf the weeds very much. There were silver fish also, and an electric fish which 126 seemed to be studded with points which looked like an electric spark. Lew Matlack was one of those who had s^one without luncheon and was chewing tobacco vigorously to fill out the time and the vacuum. Being totally carried away by the beauty of the scene upon which he was gazing, and forgetting altogether that he was looking through glass, he let go his mouthful, as he thought into the water, but it fetched up on the glass in a beautiful splotch. Everybody was dumbfounded for a moment, of merrimeitand then let go a volley that woke Lew up. He nearly broke his back and used up all the handkerchiefs he owned or could borrow to get the glass clean, while the crowd encouraged him with all kinds of advice and sug- gestions how to do it. One of the ladies on board becoming sea- sick from gazing too steadily downward and the motion of the boat, Lew was unanimously chosen to hold her head as a reward for the entertainment he had added to the boat ride. The boat was not kept stationary after being pulled out to deep water by a steam launch, but was rowed around over water from twenty to one hundred feet in depth. Li the deeper w^ater many schools of food-fish could also be seen, some of them very large in number. Some of the plants even in deep water looked as though you could reach down and grasp them in your hands. They did not lie down on the bottom, but stood up like trees and were said to be supported by air sacks growing upon them. Many of them contained great clusters of flowers that certainly looked verv much out of place under water, as the plants waved to and fro with the motion of the water. Hours could be consumed in gazing upon the wonders of the submarine gardens without the sight becoming at all tiresome. On shore the beach w^as a Coney Island on a small scale. All kinds of souvenirs were on sale at the houses or shanties, from postal cards up. Parties who had been out fishing were being pho- tographed wdth rods in their hands and the ocean for a background, with their spoils hung up on a butcher's rack between them. Weigh- ing machines and all the other devices for catching stray nickels or dimes abounded. Barkers for the different boats made themselves hoarse with their stentorian efforts to catch business, as did some of the same tribe for the lunch stands and r'estaurants. Some who essayed to get lunch after seeing the sights had to leave most of it untasted and run for the boat when the whistle sounded, so long was the lunch ordered in being served. But the proprietors always halted them long enough to collect the four or six bits contracted for in advance. Allen Commandery, of Allentown, was in Los Angeles and came on the same excursion with us to the island. The steamship company had asked us to allow any of their number who wished to return at 2 P. M. to come with us, which request was, of course, cheerfully granted. The Falcon, a much smaller steamer than the Cabrillo, had been detailed for this service, and her whistle was blown promptly at the appointed hour, all hurrying on board who could make the pier. Many others desired to go up at the same time, 127 but the courtesy could be extended only to the members of the two Commanderies or the boat would have exceeded the limit of passen- gers that it was entitled to carry. As it was, we made a nice, genial party of 125 Knights and ladies, who enjoyed the return trip immensely. There was oceans of room, cords of geniality, and the wind was ahead, making quite a pleasant breeze and a little more sea, to which the Falcon rocked a little, being so much smaller than the other steamer. Flying fish in great numbers were to be seen on the way back, rising sometimes in a large school as they were pursued by their enemies of a larger growth. They often made quite a flight and glist- ened in. the sun as though they had been polished. A large steamer passed us, bound up the coast, flying Old Glory, the sight of which, rippling and waving in the fresh breezes, created unbounded enthu- siasm on board, and called for many patriotic expressions. We were out of sight of land for more than an hour, during which time we came near having an episode that might have been fatal to the good spirits of the company. An incautious cry of "Fire !" seriously alarmed those who heard it as they saw smoke issuing in quantities from behind a closed door. The steamer hands were prompt in their duty and found upon investigation that a large box of matches in the store room had exploded or gone ofif of its own accord and set the room on fire. It was well that the fire was promptly discov- ered and as promptly quenched. About 4 P. M. the mountains on shore loomed up like shadows, and were gladly welcomed as harbingers of the distant land to which we were bound. At 5 P. M. we had once more reached the steam- ship dock and landed to take our train back. The train was in wait- ing all right, but the engine to draw was non est. It had been sched- uled for just the hour at which we landed, and was awaiting, as the locomotive was not, neither were the cars doors unlocked. After much racing around and questioning of railroad employes, who as usual knew nothing, one was found who could phone authoritatively, who promised an engine in a few minutes, and who admitted us to the cars. The few minutes grew into quite a number, and meanwhile the male contingent amused themselves, and the ladies looking on, by playing duck on davy and baseball, with oranges for balls. The lat- ter did not survive many hits, and when they gave way it was sure to be as some one caught them in their hands, which fact furnished much amusement to all the other fellows. Finally the promised engine arrived and made first-class time back to the station at Los Angeles without any aggravating stops. We connected with that point at 6 P. M., just in time to demolish a much longed for dinner in conjunction with the stay-at-homes who had arrived in advance of us. That dozen who had remained behind this morning had taken the trolley cars first to South Pasadena, where they had stopped at the Ostrich Farm and viewed all its attractions over. Big birds, little birds, alive and stuffed, eggs, feathers and all the concomitants 128 that go to make up ostrich breeding and ostrich j^jrochicts, were care- fully inspected. From thence they took the cars again for Pasadena proper. Looking around for carriages, from which to view the beautiful residences of the town, they struck a tally-ho owner who, for a consideration, took the entire party around on a ride which repaid them richly in the beauty and variety of residence and lovely gardens that they saw. They had previously endeavored to find some luncheon, but the restaurants would not supply any one until the luncheon hour of twelve. Charley MacNamee tried to hypnotize a red-headed waiter girl into serving the party, but without any suc- cess. After their ride they finally secured their meal and then paid a visit to the Masonic Temple, where a delegation of ladies were in waiting to extend the courtesies of the city to all Templar visitors. Ostriches, South Pasadena They were performing that duty to perfection, and made things very pleasant to their callers. Upon the return of the pilgrims to Los Angeles they also called at the Masonic Temple of that city, where they found a large amount of mail, which they brought to the cars and distributed, and which made a very welcome addition to the pleasures of the day. The Knights of Los Angeles Commandery were also making all visitors welcome, as well as furnishing them with free tickets for 'excursions when called for. This evening the Southern Pacific tried to outdo itself by shift- ing our train down into the yards in the centre of half a dozen more. With running trains on the open tracks and shifting engines dodging in and out, it looked very much as if some of us might realize upon our accident insurance policies before the night was over, but we all came safely through by exercising great care. Some of the pilgrims 129 who felt piously inclined to-night, found their way to church, and happened to drift into the one of which Bob Burdette is pastor. Whether their identity was known to the dominie is uncertain, but they were very much astonished to hear a sermon upon "Corrupt Philadelphia," in which he described our home city as the blackest spot on earth, politically and morally. Whether he actually believed what he said, or was only working off one of his old so-called humor- ous lectures could only be guessed at. The party that was left at Avalon to-day spent a very pleasant afternoon, taking plenty of time for their observations, going out as far as the Seal Rocks and exploring the shores of the island on which ||\,^v. '.. V;.. ^;-.- -^ J iHk ^k ' ^.:'' A Catalina View they found pleasant gardens of palms and other tropical plants. Surf bathing also fell to their lot. They claimed the night ride on the steamer to be much more pleasant than that by day, and thought they were well rewarded for their enforced stay. They arrived at San Pedro about 9 P. M., but owing to some sort of a wreck on the railroad, they were delayed in getting started for home until ii P. M. It was midnight when Los Angeles was finally reached, and they had a tiresome hunt for the displaced train. Hotels and restaurants in the neighborhood of the station were eagerly sought by the belated tourists and raided for what they could supply. They had eaten nothing since noon, and the light lunches they were able to secure tasted better than any ordinary banquet. 130 Monday, September 12, 1904 NOTHER bright and clear morning- greeted us upon awakening from sound slumbers, but it bid fair to warm us up again be- fore the day got very old. As the day was to be a go-as-you-please affair, and to be devoted entire- ly to individual sight-see- ing, there was little con- cern about the weather. The morning meal was quickly disposed of and as quickly the pilgrims dispersed in squads ac- cording to their own in- clinations. An early morning run was taken up to the Masonic Temple, where another bunch of mail was received. Los Angeles Commandery was also giving out badges, on which were hung a wooden mission bell, finely printed souvenir books of the city, as well as cooling and refreshing drinks, in addi- tion to the free transportation tickets to near-by points. Most of yesterday's steamer party went to Pasadena to-day, stopping off at South Pasadena to see the Cawson Ostrich Farm. There, after examining the stock in the store of plumes, eggs and stuffed birds, and purchasing some as souvenirs of the visit, they entered the farm proper. The entrance is surrounded by palm trees, cactus gardens, roses in abundance, and well laid out walks, the whole combination making a beautiful garden. The tour of the farm itself was most interesting. There are about 250 of the dilapi- dated looking birds in the different corrals, and they seemed glad to have visitors call upon them, as they rushed to the fences and grinned pleasantly at their callers. It was necessary for the guides to warn the visitors all the time not to get too close, as the big fel- lows make a practice of grabbing at anything that glistens in the sun, and would as soon swallow a diamond stud or gold badge as a bite of apple or orange. 131 One of the guides supplied the party with oranges, and the way a whole orange would slide down that long neck excited the admiration of all. They could be watched going down the whole length until they finally disappeared. "Such a neck for cocktails or high balls !" was the general exclamation of envy from the male visitors. Anything is legitimate diet for an ostrich, from pebbles to lighted pipes, pieces of glass, jewelry or tennis balls and one is solemnly accused of having swallowed a gimlet. When once mated the pairs of birds remain true to one another, evidently not believing in divorce laws. They take turns in sitting on their eggs, the one in the day time and the mate at night. Maneely bought an egg with Swallowing an Orange the declared intention of having it hatched at home. When he found that the tour of duty of the male bird came on at night he gave up the idea at once. He was persuaded by his wife not to buy one of the stuffed ostriches, but shortly made an excuse to return to the store and rejoined his party with a huge package containing the ostrich, which he intended taking home for another souvenir. Continuing their journey, they struck Pasadena after another short ride. Although more of a winter than a summer resort, the city looked beautiful this bright day, and while the sun was warm the ^ir was very pleasant. Immense palms and flowers innumerable surrounded the beautiful residences and fine hotels which embel- 132 lished the city. When we uiulerstand tliat this is not the flower season proper, we can only wonder what the gardens look like when the season for their fulness is at hand. Everybody was made wel- come at the Temple by the Knights of Pasadena Commandery and Palm Avenue, Los Angeles their ladies. Some of the party made the tri]) up Mt. Lowe by the electric railway, and were not anxious to repeat the experience, as there are many points that look dangerous, if they are not actually so. After luncheon, others made a trip to another Old Mission, the San Miguel, which is several miles outside of the town. This mis- sion was founded in 1797, and is considered by many as the most interesting of its kind in California. It remains to-day as it was built, retaining the original decorations and valuable altar, all of which were the work of the Indians, who worshipped here. Not far from the mission some of the party saw what was said to be the oldest grapevine in the state, its age being estimated as one hundred and fifty years. Its trunk was like that of a tree, nearly a foot in diameter. Although it is one of the features of the place that visitors are expected to see, it is located in a beer garden, where the only other attraction was a nickel in the slot machine, which soon absorbed all the loose change possessed by the pilgrims present. After the return to Los Angeles, the balance of the day was spent in carriage rides about the residential portion of the city and shopping in the business district. The southwestern portion of the city has the finest residences, gardens, drives and walks that it has been our pleasure to see on this pilgrimage. Chester Place looks like a collection of millionaire's palaces, and other parks and terraces are nearly equal to it in beauty and elegance. While many of the streets and avenues are private, all are open to the public. There was a private avenue a block long, lined on either side with palms of a great height. The only hindrance to the free use of this was a sign at either end calling for horses to be walked through over the cement pavement. Some of the avenues were lighted with groups of elec- tric lights that might have formed good decorations for a ball room, and the plants were handsome enough to fill hothouses in the East. The stores also proved a great attraction to the ladies, who always returned to the train loaded up with souvenirs. A number also took the train this afternoon for Long Beach, a seaside resort, where they had fine surf bathing and a good time generally. Our train was not scheduled to leave Los Angeles until after midnight, but notice was given that any one not on board by 10 P. M. would be obliged to meet the train at the Santa Fe depot, to which it would be shifted about that hour. In the meantime the Southern Pacific backed us again into the station and tried to choke all hands by letting the Pintsch gas, which is used on Pullman trains, escape while recharging the tanks of the cars. It was of no use to protest or ask for the removal of the train into fresh air, as the lordly sta- tionmaster wished no instructions in regard to his business. We could only hope that he would be put in the Pintsch gas reservoir at some day in the great future. Rather than risk missing connection with the train, nearly everybody reported on time and rode to the Santa Fe on our special. In the club car the weary pilgrims spent the remainder of the time until the train pulled at 12.30 A. M. for Riverside, our next stop. By I A, M. John had succeeded in clearing the last of the night owls from his domain, and found some rest for himself. This was another of the strenuous days of the pilgrimage, and the labors thereof assured a sound night's sleep. 134 Tuesday September 13,1 904 HE train arrived at Riverside at 4 A. M., and we awoke to find it anchored beside a large irrigating ditch, the same location which we occupied twelve years ago. A short distance in front of the train was the main street of the city, along which trolley tracks were now laid and cars running. Little time was lost in securing break- fast, as carriages had been or- dered for a drive at 9 A. M., and the pilgrims were looking for- ward to a delightful ride through the thousands of orange groves at this place. Some of those who got through their morning meal early took a walk down town as far as the New Glenwood, Riverside's Mission Hotel. This hostelry, now one of the attractions to Western tourists, had in its architec- tural design all the main features of the old missions of Southern California. With the grounds it occupies an entire block. Its exter- ior and interior excite the attention of the visitor and make him feel like remaining for a time. The inner court, with its mission garden, the mission arches, the tiled roofs, the clinging vines on the outside, together with the timbered ceilings and quaint windows of the inside, make a picture long to be remembered. The tiles which cover the roof of the cottage in the courtyard, had been taken from one of the old ruined mission buildings and were a century and a-half old and looked fair for another century or two at least. Going inside we found a number of Sir Knights from Washing- ton and Baltimore, who were just getting breakfast. They had been also booked for the Riverside drive, but had been delayed on the road until they were obliged to give it up, and just run up and down the trolley road before they started again on their way. Among them we were glad to shake hands with Frank Thomas and his wife, and Bennett Allen, of our Columbia Commandery friends. McCoy appeared to know pretty much everybody in the party, as he was for some years ticket agent at Washington, D. C. Close by the hotel on the same avenue was a new Carnegie Library building, also looking more like an ancient mission than the 135 missions themselves, although much wanting in the appearance of age. , Breakfast being in an advanced state at an early hour, and the agent of the livery stable being at hand, the hour for the ride was changed to 8.45 A. M., at which time the carriages were at hand and were immediately comfortably filled. Some of the teams were at first driven through the courtyard of the new Glenwood to give the occupants an idea of the special features of the building from the outside. Then the route was taken up through some of the business streets and residence section of the town before starting on the drive proper through the orange grove. Then mile after mile of the latter was traversed, most of which were in a new section of country Carnegies" Library from what we had seen on our former visit to Riverside. Thousands and tens of thousands of orange and lemon trees could be seen in terraced rows, like soldiers on parade, on every side. Right up the slopes of the hills the orchards extended wherever water coaild be induced to run to assist in their culture. On our former visit here the orange groves all seemed to be on the level, but now that is all changed. The remarkable system of irrigation is as much a curiosity as the trees themselves. Through fifty miles of main canals and five hundred miles of lateral systems the water is distributed to the groves ; 80,000,000 gallons of it are required for the daily supply. In some places on the slopes of the hills it seemed as though the water was running up. 136 Many fine residences, surrounded b}- mas^nificent nowers and plants of all kinds, were located among the groves, and it is a pleas- ure to the proprietors to have visitors drive through the finely kept grounds and enjoy with them the beauties of their ])laces. Unfor- tunately for the pilgrims it was not the orange season, but many of the trees still bore their burden of fruit, to give them an idea of how the trees can be laden. The lemon trees also contained plenty of the specimens of that fruit, which is more or less in season at all times. Pomegranate trees were common among the plants surround- ing the residences, while the choicest palms, century plants and all semi-tropical growths abounded. Six of the century plants, in full Oran jrove, Kiverside bloom, with stalks from ten to fifteen feet in height, were counted in the course of our drive this morning. Our trip through the new groves extended over a period of over two hours. We were then driven on to a grand boulevard, now in course of construction, and partly finished. It is a magnificent thoroughfare, lined on both sides with hundreds of gracefully drooping pepper trees, all of which were beautiful this morning, with thousands of bunches of their red berries. Down the centre w^ere laid out flower beds of the width of an ordinary street, with stately palms lining each side at close inter-- vals and flowers of all kinds sandwiched between. When we look out upon our bare gardens and snow-covered streets this winter, we will wonder if such things can be in the same country, although we can see now in the distance the San Jacinto Mountains, with tlieir peaks showing many patches of snow. We did not need its presence any closer, as the morning has been as fair and the air as pleasant as any one could wish for. The drive, in fact, was perfect in every way. There is no dust on any of the roads, because they are soaked with crude oil two or three times each year. This treatment does away with all need of sprinkling, and the com- bination of oil and dust makes the road almost like asphalt, but more yielding. Leaving the boulevard, we turned off and visited the Sherman Institute, an Indian Training School on the plan of that at Carlisle. Riverside Coach It is surrounded by spacious grounds and many fields under cultiva- tion, in which the Indian boys were at work. Many of the young redskins were passing to and fro who looked contented and happy at the prospect of becoming good citizens at some future date. Fur- ther on we ran across a Riverside Chinatown, a rough-looking settle- ment of frame shanties, with laundry signs on a good many of them. Driving back through the city proper we passed White Park, in a pavilion of which a brass band was playing. The park itself con- tains a garden of cacti, which is said to contain a specimen of every known species of cactus in the world. Another stop was made on 138 the return trip at the Glenwood, when the party ahghted and had a good view of the interior of the hotel. Most of them stocked themselves up with packages of Glenwood postal cards, showing the outside and inside views of the house. Stump and Widdeman had secured an independent rig for the ride in the shape of a small runabout, with which they took in all the sights with as much enjoy- ment as those who had other persons to drive them. They kept up with the procession all the morning. There was little time to spare when the coaches returned to the train. Everybody was ordered aboard and the train left on time, at 12 M. At I2.20 P. M. a stop was made at San Bernardino. Across the valley from the station is Arrowhead Mountain, which shows Century Plant, Riverside near its base a large fissure like the head of an arrow. This sign was the cause of a Mormon settlement here years ago. Traveling south from Utah in search of new lands to settle, the bishop accom- panying the train of travelers took this a sign that they should remain here and start anew, because the arrow pointed to the ground. At the station, where are located large railroad shops, we came across numbers of Philadelphia machinists who were working m these shops. Three hundred and twenty-five of them had emigrated from the Baldwin shops, the Pencoyd Iron Works and the South- wark Foundry. They were very glad to meet with some one who could talk old Philly to them. Some of them had brought their fami- 139 lies out, but most of them would have sooner been back in Phila- delphia but for the good wages they were earning here. At I P. M. we were again off on our road with two engines to assist us in climbing another mountain range. The principal objects of view after leaving San Bernardino were the different species of desert vegetation. Prickly pears, greasewood and sagebrush flour- ished in all their glory, but did not look inviting enough for any one to wish for samples. Up in the mountains clouds had gathered in ominous blackness, and the thunder was rolling and reverberating around the hills and through the gorges at an alarming rate, and directly the rain came down on our train in torrents. At 2.15 P. M, Sombri iexican Somorero we ran into a heavy hail storm at an elevation of 7,000 feet, and, as the engineer could not see the track ahead of him, the train was halted until the hail was over. It sounded on the cartops as though we were being bombarded with Catling guns. We reached Victoria at 3 P. M. and stopped to take on water and oil, having oil-burning engines again towing us. All the motive power on this section of road being of that type. At 3.30 P. M. another progressive euchre w'as given in the dining car by Mrs. Henderson and Mrs. Bowker. at which the ladies' prizes were awarded to Mrs. Charles Reese and Aliss Milligan, and the gentlemen's to Charles Reese and Charles P..ur. 140 Gold is found in paying- (juantities in tlio hills and mountains around here, and we passed a large smelting works just before reach- ing Barstow at 3.55 P. I\I. In the few minutes that we stopped at that station, we were called to by a lady to view some underground lodgings, which she said was the only place cool enough for the railroad men to get any comfortable sleep in this climate. They were dug into the sandy soil about six feet and ran up about four feet above ground, the outside being banked up with more sand. Inside they were as neat and tidy bed-rooms as you would wish to see, looking white and cool enough to invite a nap at once. We had but a few minutes to take it in. but we certainly enjoyed the novel sight. Belle Since the hail storm we had been running through cool and pleasant airs, which continued all the afternoon. At one time for more than an hour the train ran in the shadow of a large cloud, which seemed to hover over us right along, while the sun shone brightly all around the shadowy spot. So the crossing of the desert had given us but little discomfort. Many beds of lava were passed this afternoon, and a number of extinct volcanoes reared their empty craters in the hills beyond. At 5.30 P. AI. we stopped at Ludlow, a water station in the midst of the desert. At some points this after- noon we had been below the sea level, but no water is to be found 141 here except at the water stations, to which it is hauled in especially constructed cars. The only traces of vegetation were again the cac- tus, sagebrush and greasewood bushes. The Santa Fe conductor for this division, while hobnobbing with the boys in the smoker, was questioned as to what could be raised in this section of country. His answer was : "You can't raise anything around here but hell ; you do not even have to raise an umbrella." At 9.15 P. M. We reached the Needles, the last station in Cali- fornia. It lies on the Colorado River, which is here the dividing line between California and Arizona. The town takes its name from two tall pillars of rock, just off the river bank between which the railroad runs before crossing the river on an iron bridge. The sta- tion was to-night bright with lights, and alive with people. Most of those outside were Mojave Indians, who were anxious to sell strings and ornaments of beads, clay pipes and other pottery of their own manufacture. The pilgrims were off the train at once and mingling generally with the dirty-looking Mojaves for barter like their Quaker ancestor. Two bits was the minimum figure at which most of the wares were quoted, ranging upward to one dollar. Indeed their vocabulary seemed confined to two, four and six bits and one dollar. Doc. Shriner, who is one of the most indefatigable seekers after information upon our train, asked one of the squaws as to what tribe she belonged, and received the regulation answer, "Two bits." We were informed by one of the white men near by that most of the Indian men, who stood around in stolid indifference, while the squaws made sales, were employed by the railroad com- pany, and could talk English by the yard if necessary. But when a trainload of tourists were to be taken in and done for, their language was very limited. Shriner had been loaded with statistics at every station on the roads over which we have passed, and if he has not forgotten them knows all the distances, elevations, temperatures and populations of the entire route. When he could not think of anything else to ask a man he would inquire what his wife's maiden name was and of what his mother-in-law died. At one end of the station platform was a squaw with a papoose tightly wrapped in endless covering, face and all, until it was a mystery how it could breathe. A buck who stood behind and was evidently her lord and master, was ^sked whether she would not show its face. He replied she would for ten cents. The cash was at once produced, but the grey mare proved the better horse, and the squaw absolutelv refused to compiv unless the ante was raised to "two bits." Another squaw had a papoose nearer the station doorway, whose little eyes were bright as black beads, but who was evidently afraid of the curious white strangers crowding around to see him. A strong effort was made to buy the copper-colored infant, and bids were successively offered all the way from two bits to two dollars 142 for him, but each one was received with a negative shake of the head and a tighter grip on the infant redskin. Manecly said he would buy it if it was stuffed, but did not want to take home any hve stock. Many of the party had loaded up with live stock in California in the shape of fleas, especially in San Francisco, where bitter complaints were made of the ravages of that insect. But it is expressed by the native Franciscans that a flea belonging in that city will never leave the place, so much does he love his native place. This is probably true, as there were fewer inquiries after leaving that point as to "how your bites were getting along." The usual stock of trinkets was purchased at the Needles to be added to the large amount already stored upon the train. Whenever a stop at any station is made there is always a grand rush to get off if only for a minute or two, as it serves to break the monotony of railroad riding, and you stand some chance of adding to your stock of information. We were off again at lo P. M. with every prospect of a warm night. Our engineer had orders to run slowly beyond the Needles, as there had been heavy showers reported ahead of us that might have caused washouts on the track. There were jolly parties on the train to-night, and it was again late before the last one retired for the night. ■'I .// 143 Wednesday, September 14, 1904 HILE we looked for warm weather during the night, we woke tip this morning with the Pullman blan- kets pulled up snugly around us. What had caused the change we did not know, neither were we aware of the time, but merely obeyed the natural instinct which makes you draw up the covers in your sleep when the cool air strikes you. It was still quite cool and pleasant at an early hour this morning, but we were sorry to learn that we were five liours behind time. There had been heavy rains for three weeks preceding, and numerous washouts had taken place, so that heavy trains like ours were compelled to run slowly. In addition to this necessity there had been a strike on the road, which made good engineers and firemen scarce. This, by the way, reminds us that one of the parading union men in San Fran- cisco gaily bore his sign around among the visiting knights with the legend thereon : "Do not patronize the Santa Fe Railroad, as it is unfair." We gained one of the hours in time last night that we lost on our way to the West, wdiich made an unexpectedly early rush to breakfast. Some of the second half were still at that meal when we arrived at Williams at 9 A. M. instead of 4.30 A. M., when we were scheduled to be here. There had been some wild yarns told us on the way here of the tough citizens of Williams, who would walk through the train and pick up grijis or suit cases at their pleasure and decamp with them. Some of the ladies had been needlessly very much alarmed thereby, as we found about the same class of people around the station as at other points. 144 Here we were to branch off for the Grand Canon of Arizona, a sight of which we had been anticipating with much pleasure for some days. The weather had got quite warm again, and clouds were gath- ering around as though another thunderstorm was in prospective. A raid upon a store adjacent to the station for souvenirs was productive of little results. The scarcest article in Williams was said to be water, there being but one well in all the town. The owner thereof had a monopoly, and knew how to work it just as well as Rocke- feller. There was no scarcity of saloons, however, and some of them were crowned with unique signs, such as "Life Saving Station" and "Palace Thirst Parlor." The station platform was crowded with stranded passengers, en route for the canon, who had arrived late for the morning train, and were forced to wait for the regular train at 2 P. M. Among these were Tom Hare, a member of Mary, and his friend and fellow trav- eler, Doc. Mayer, who had run against us in San Francisco. We were besieged by dozens of people to take them upon our train, but had to decline. It was a not very congenial task where so many ladies were concerned, but we could not accommodate them. We oft'ered to let the railroad authorities attach cars to the train, but they were rather dubious about taking our train in as it was, the road being built of light rails and is a ramshackle affair at best. We did finally take on a half-dozen men who could accommodate themselves to life in the smoker. They included Hare and Mayer and four Knights from Cincinnati and West Virginia, who were returning home independent of their commands. The ladies enjoyed a grand sight during the run up the canon road in the shape of wild flowers. These grew in the greatest pro- fusion, there being beds, half acres and whole acres in a bunch. Now a bed of purple daisies, then a solid white mass of them, and again a perfect feast of yellow blossoms. So they alternated all the way up to the canon on either side of the road, some of them even grow- ing up between the stones of the ballast on the road bed. Prairie dogs were also numerous, and a few jack rabbits scudded before the noise of the train, disappearing as quickly almost as attention could be called to their appearance. Luncheon was advanced to an earlier hour, so that no time need be lost after our arrival at the canon. We should have had all day there, but the lost time must come oft" our stay. It was aDout i P. M. when the train pulled up at the station, and all hands were off in quick time. There was a number of steps to climb to get up to the level of the Bright Angel Hotel, from in front of which the first view of the Grand Canon is to be enjoyed. A few drops of rain were fall- ing and heavy clouds were whirling around over our heads, but they formed no hindrance to the rush for the view. The storm finally sheered off and broke on the other side of the canon, but as this was thirteen miles across it did not interfere any further with our plans. 145 Why the name of Bright Angel was applied to the one-storied log cabin, unpainted building which answers at present for a hotel, was a mystery to all. It also applies to the trail by which you go down from this point to the bottom of the canon. There it is more applicable as, if your horse should slip going down, you stand a very good chance of becoming the being after whom the place is called. When it is applied to the view, the first the pilgrims had of the place, the cognomen is also all right. Any other high-sounding title would answer equally as well. Although walking boldly down to the prac- tically unprotected edge of the canon, the first impulse is to draw back, not a little, but to some distance. The sort of attraction which impels some persons to feel that they must jump down from any ^•^. ^.t^^-di Ibk ^^ #i»9» M^TT?^ ^^ ^^^K^HHEst . "I^^I^^B^^bbsHjL- W^^^^fM^^ bE^»' sPi p^^^^ ^^^^^^^^B^^^' SI^^^^^^^BK»^ .^^^^^ma^S^^^ ^^^ Grand Canon of Arizona high altitude seems to come over you with redoubled force at this place. A sheer precipice falls away at your feet for several thou- sand feet, with nothing but bare rock to stay your fall if you should go over. On every side are buttresses, forts, towers and pinnacles in all fantastic shapes imaginable, evidently worn so by the erosion of some mighty flood of water ages ago. Towers, minarets, pulpits, steeples and fortresses can be seen as though shaped by the hand of some designer. A walk of a few yards in either direction seems to change the shape of whatever you are looking at and it takes on new beauties. And then the colors of many hues, the red predominating over all, beside blacks, whites and greys of all shades in regular lines in 146 the opposite banks. Down in the depths of the canon the Colorado River ran along like a silver band apparently a few feet in width. In reality it is from four to five hundred feet across. The trail at this point, down which tourists are taken on horseback, is only a narrow footpath at the start, which soon apparently dwindles down to noth- ing and disappears to the eyesight altogether. In the valleys at the bottom was what had the appearance of a block of white stone, perhaps three feet by four. When the field glasses were leveled upon it. it proved to be seven wall tents side by side. Horses and men were also walking about that were invisible to the naked eye. The depth of the canon here is 4,500 feet, or about five-sixths of a mile from the bank where we stood. As the river at the bottom is 2,500 feet above sea level, our elevation was 7.000 feet altogether. On the opposite side of the canon the cliffs rose for another 1,100 feet, and it was the face of these that was colored with the grey and black strata of some kind. The width of the gorge at this point is thirteen miles, and the canon is two hundred and eighteen miles in length, carrying its beauty and ruggedness all the way. So clear was the atmosphere that the opposite bank did not appear more than a couple of miles away at the outside. Coaches similar to those in use in the Yellowstone, were in wait- ing to give us views from other points of this side of the canon. These were quickly occupied and driven first to Point Rowe and Cyclorama Point. The trail, which was dignified by the name of road, and led to these points, was cut through an almost impene- trable forest, most of which was composed of gnarled and knotted cedars. There was no getting through except by the trail, as every- where else were fallen trunks of trees and thick underbrush, together with thousands of cacti of a dozen different breeds. As to the trail itself, nobody can appreciate its fine points except one who has ridden over it in a stage coach. No description can do justice to the hills, hollows, bumps, stumps or rocks which embellished the way and gave variety to the ride. It took a nervy, cool-headed driver to guide four fresh horses over it, and through the narrow passes and extremely short turns it made at some places. As an aid to digestion, though, it was a grand success. From Cyclorama Point the same grand features were to be seen as at Bright Angel, only there was a greater scope of the canon in sight. Everywhere you turned fresh features appeared, and were received with many exclamations of wonder and pleasure from most of the party, although many drank in the view in silence, awed by the grandeur of the whole scene. The thunder storm was still in full swing on the farther side of the canon, and the clouds would darken the sun for some minutes. Then it would break through and light up the colored pinnacles in a blaze of beauty, only to be shaded again in a little while. After this view the coaches were driven back past the train and on to Grand View, where was another grand view indeed. Taken 147 altogether, the canon was the most stupendous and awe-inspiring of the works of Nature that we had yet seen on this or any other pil- grimage. It was calculated in the most striking manner to impress upon man what an insignificant atom he is upon the surface of this earth, and how little his works will bear comparison with those of Nature when she gets down to business in earnest. Some of the party expressed a preference for the canon of the Yellowstone over that of Arizona. It is hardly fair to bring the two into comparison, they being on such totally different scales. Each is grand in its own way, but the Grand Canon of Arizona is on such a stupendous basis that it is not fair to belittle it bv contrast with smaller thinsfs. A wall of the Grand Canon of Arizona Matos, Hare and McCoy had secured horses to ride in prefer- ence to taking a coach, and tore around the trail with a guide on their own hook. At Cyclorama Point, Matos was tendered the use of a white horse called Jim, if he would go back to the stable for it. It was the horse that President Roosevelt had ridden on his visit to the canon. Of course Matos seized the opportunity to sit where the President had sat, and returned with the guide for Jim. Returning on the narrow trail with the fresh horse, they suddenly met one of the coaches on its way, and had to turn out of the road quickly. The guide slipped through all right, but Matos struck the trunk of a tree with his knee with great force. It was first feared that the 148 knee cap was broken, but when he found that it was not Matos con- tinued his ride to the end. But after his return to the train he was found lying on the floor of the car unconscious, and Doc. Righter was called to administer to the patient. While the doctor was attend- ing to the injury the patient again collapsed. He was crippled up for several days, but fully recovered before reaching home. There is a new hotel building nearly completed upon an eleva- tion overlooking the canon, which will be ready for the tourist of next season. It seems quite an undertaking to put up a large hotel here, for which all supplies will have to be brought for many miles, even the necessary water being hauled there. But Western enterprise Is equal to all these things, and takes chances of repayment that seem prohibitive at the outset. The usual store, with curios and souvenirs of all kinds, was found at the canon, and was thoroughly overhauled by our pilgrims. Many of them were disappointed that we had not been long enough here to make the descent into the canon on horseback or astraddle oi a burro. But it is an all day journey, and our schedule of course would not permit of lying over for another day. The party that had gone down this morning at an early hour only came up a few min- utes before we left this evening. They had been thoroughly drenched with rain on their trip and were in sorry plight. There was a Boston Knights Templar train on the track adjoin- ing ours, and as all our party were on "deck, an effort was made to have our train go out ahead of them, but we got lost in the deal after being made quite sure of the game. We did not get away until 6.25 P. M., while dinner was under way. By the time the meal was over darkness had set in and shut out our view of the country on the way down. Williams was not reached again until 10 P. M. The station was shrouded in darkness and no one left the cars during our fifteen minutes' halt there before we switched out on to the main line again. After leaving Williams the last of the pilgrims began to drift berthwards, the greater number of them having retired earlier. The shaking up during the afternoon ride had tired most of them sufficientlv. 149 Thursday, September 15, 1904 HIS was another bright and lovely morning, al- though the warm weath- er that seemed to have adhered to our progress generally since coming out of the Yellowstone, bid fair to continue to- day. On our advent this morning we were in- formed by the train crew now in charge that we were an hour behind time. We were follow- ing the course of the Lit- tle Colorado River, down whose bed the water was rushing in torrents from heavy rains that had fallen last night or ahead of us this morning. The water had a familiar appearance, and might have passed for good old Schuylkill if we had not known it was far away. It was cutting away the half sandy banks in huge slices, and mixing the material with the water as it raced by. The same rain that raised the river water kept us free from any dust on the train, for which it had our thanks. At the rate we were running our conductor informed us we would not reach Santa Fe, our next stopping place, before 4 P. M. As this would leave us but an hour in the ancient city, we made arrangements to leave there at 6 P. M., stretching our visit another hour. At 7.30 A. M. we passed the boundary line between Arizona and New Mexico. Having traversed the whole width of the former state from west to east, we now started in to cross the latter to the northeast corner. At 8.10 A. M. we made a short stop at Gallup, a mining town, in which the principal mines on the main street seemed to be devoted to the production and refining of old rye and kindred products. The first one to greet the crowd as they got off the train was an old Philadelphian, a graduate of the House of Correction, who 150 recommended that institution as a fine place of residence and Tom South as a gentleman who could be depended on to give you quar- ters in it every time. "Have you got enough to buy a drink?" was his salutation to Mclntyre. "Sure/' said Mac, and rushed him across the plaza behind the slat doors of a saloon. Emerging there- from a minute or two later with a beatific grin on his weather- beaten countenance he launched out into a history of his tramps from Philadelphia to the Pacific shore and through the Wild West. Then seeing that Ollie Price looked the personification of good nature, he struck him for another trip behind the slat doors and a couple of additional slugs. If the train had been held up a little longer the old stager would have been the happiest man in Gallup. As it started he raced after us and shouted not to forget to see Tom South on our return. Just beyond Gallup we passed several coal mines which seemed to be worked to a great extent, judging from the number of cars on their sidings. There were plenty of Indians in sight to-day, but none very inviting as to appearance. At 9.20 A. M. we passed over another Continental Divide, a mountain top feature that seems to be quite numerous on the line of our travels. From the summit the waters fovind their way on one side by way of the Colorado and its tributaries to the Gulf of California, while those on the other side of the mountain ultimately found their destination in the Gulf of Mexico by way of the Arkansas, Missouri and Mississippi rivers. Goats in immense flocks were a new product that showed up this morning. What pasture they occupied seemed to be cropped pretty close and there was no reserve of tin cans in sight for them to fall back on. Adobe houses also began to be plentiful, all of which are built but one story high and in two sections, with a wide open passagew^ay between. The open space appears to be used as a dining hall and sleeping place in hot weather, sought for coolness as the air can blow freely through when there is any. Indian tepees and shacks were also numerous. Through these the air can circu- late freely as can the rain when it comes. Curious formations abound in the red conglomerate of the foothills which line the sides of the valleys here. At some time the water has borne away the softer material between them and it requires but little stretch of the imagination to line out among them castles, chapels, forts or towers without number. As the train turns on its winding way they seem to shift and wheel and form new combinations like a kaleidoscope on a large scale. We seem to be getting in touch with civilization again this morning when we strike a large cornfield, the property of some of the Pueblo Indians, into whose quarters we are now about to intrude. At ii A. M. we struck Laguna, a large Indian village or pueblo, where the usual number of squaws was in waiting to dis- pose of their pottery wares and specimens of turquoise found in this neighborhood. The Boston train, which had been running just 151 ahead of us for some time, was held here for a visit to the village, while our train pulled out ahead. Another Indian village at Isleta was reached at 12.20 P. M. Little time was spent liere, although the Indian traders were actively calling attention to their wares. Pottery was getting to be a drug on the market and the squaws refused to part with the silver bracelets and other ornaments which they wore. We pulled in abreast of the fine new station at Albuquerque at 12.45 P. M. There we had a stop for twenty-five minutes and the pilgrims swarmed at once into the handsome curio store at the station. Here was every opportunity to satisfy the craving for souvenirs from a stock which embraced everything from postal cards to Navajo blankets or Mexican drawn work. In a rear room were several Indian women weaving the blankets on their peculiar Indian Pueblo, Laguna looms and in one corner a little Indian maiden but five years of age was serving her first apprenticeship to the business. The little one was the Subject of much curious inspection on the part of our pil- grims, but rarely turned her head from her loom. Several Indian women were located on the asphalt walks outside the building with the usual stock of pottery to sell. Numerous attempts were made to engage them in conversation, while some of the kodakers got their pictures, but with only partial success. The coflfers of the bazaar were considerably richer when we left Albuquerque at 1.25 P. M. and the pilgrim pockets correspondingly lighter with the number of packages on the train still on the increase. Numerous Indian villages were encountered in the next few miles, the most prominent among them being those of San Felipe and San Domingo. All of the houses are built of adobe bricks 152 with a playground on the roof for the younger children, with the wall raised up all around to prevent them falling out. On the walls of nearly every one of them hung huge bunches and festoons of red . material which looked like decorations. Upon inquiry we found that this was Chile con Carne drying in the sun. This is a combina- tion of the red pepper pod and jerked beef, a red-hot combination with which the Indian is wont to tickle his palate at every meal. Another progressive euchre was in progress this afternoon, at which the ladies' prizes were awarded to Mrs. Bowker, Mrs. Crist and Mrs. Harry Reese, while the men with the highest scores were Charlev Reese, H. Wilson Sheiblev and Billv Patterson. 1 Salesladies. Albuquerque Irrigation canals and ditches outlined the section through which we were passing this afternoon, the most of it being cultivated by the Pueblos. A gang of Indian laborers were cutting a large ditch, close by the train, in which some women appeared to be bearing an equal burden with the men, digging away as unconcernedly as if it was an every-day matter with them. We are now following the course of the Rio Grande River, or what would be a river if it had some water in it. The dry bed of the stream was there to indicate its location, but the only water was what was contained in a few holes here and there. Flocks of sheep were numerous and large along the river bed, most of them seeking for water in the holes. 153 At 2.30 P. M. we came to a halt at Los Correllos. which was highly recommended to our notice by the railroad men as the tough- est town in the United States. A number of men were playing some kind of game with a large round skin ball on a square marked out on the ground. As we were not hunting for trouble we did not even inquire what the name of the game was. Any ordinary set of travelers would be satisfied with the appearance of the town and the inhabitants who stood around. .V grazing country for burro followed along which those diminutive beasts of burden were to be seen in droves Mclntyre said we had at last come into the headquarters of Democrats. They appeared to be as obstinate as of yore, as we saw a man, who was endeavoring to lead one by a rope halter, being towed the other wav as fast as the burro could back. Indian Pollery Sellers Lamy was reached at 3.15 P. M. From here we had to back the train up a mountain spur for an eigEteen-mile run to Santa Fe. As we gradually rose the scenery became very rugged and pic- turesque. Wild flowers also grew in abundance along the tracks as well as plenty of timber. We ran alongside the Santa Fe Station at 4.10 P. M. and immediately disembarked. Some took carriages for a tour of the old town, while others preferred to walk, stopping on their way to inspect the new County Court House, one of the very few changes in the appearance of the place since our last visit. A few minutes brought the party to the heart of the town with its 154 plaza and bandstand, its monument to the soldiers of the Civil War, its curio stores and museums. Our friend, J. Gold, was doing busi- ness at the old stand, but had many more competitors. In the back yard of one of the stores was a disconsolated looking American eagle confined in a wire cage. He declined to have any intercourse with his fellow-countrymen. Even when a dog's tail was intro- duced through the wires, within a tempting reaching distance, he only yawned and stretched out one wing. The old Alud Palace is now in the possession of the Historical Society, but we found it tightly shut up, as it is closed to the public after 4 P. M. The majority of the party then went to visit the old San Miguel Mission, one of the main attractions of the city. This ancient building was erected in 1582, although some historians give the date as 1545. Either one is old enough, but you can take your choice. The building is of small size, being about 70 by 25 feet. The walls are from three to five feet in thickness of the adobe brick and they bid fair to stand the storms of centuries to come, as does its companion old-timer, the Mud Palace. On one of the beams supporting the gallery is cut a Spanish inscription which is trans- lated as "The Marquis of Pennela repaired this building by the Royal Ensign Don Augustus Flores Vergara, his servant, A. D. 1710." The ages of the ancient altar and the painting above it are unknown. On either side of the altar were paintings of the Annunciation by Gio- vanni Cimabue of the date A. D. 1356. A very interesting lecture by one of the fathers attached to the convent adjoining the old chapel gave these and other interesting facts to the attentive pilgrims. Just to the north of the mission is a two-storied adobe building which is the remains of an old Indian pueblo and is much older than the church. Some historians claim it to be the oldest building in the country. The Mud Palace was erected in 1598 and was the seat of government by Spanish, Indian, Mexican and American governors in succession for over three hun- dred years. The collection of curios on board the train this afternoon rivaled all others for variety, ranging from Indian baby rattles and leather postal cards up to filigree jewelry and Mexican drawn coun- terpanes, and a smoking den could have been fitted out from among it in excellent style. When the train was reached we were met by a report that Charley Stump had found a long lost brother and wanted to intro- duce him to us up in the baggage car. Of course the crowd all flocked there to see him. He had certainly found another stump, but it had been so long dead that no one could tell its age or its name. Wliile the pilgrims had been sightseeing Charley had been prospecting on his own account and discovered the petrified stump of a big tree about two feet in diameter and three in length. It was a curiosity from the petrified forest of Arizona and Charley simply appropriated it. Its weight of about 350 pounds obliged him to 155 secure assistance with which he got it to the train, where it took a half dozen men to Hft it into the car. After it had been sufficiently admired and handled to make sure it had turned to stone^ Stump informed the pilgrims that as soon as he could secure the services of a cold chisel he would split it up so that every pilgrim could have a good-sized specimen to take home, a promise which he after- wards faithfully carried out. We left Santa Fe at 6 P. M. and ran down the mountains again toward Lamy and the main line. On the way we were treated to one of the most gorgeous sunsets we have yet seen on the trip. The sun went down like a huge ball of fire and as it disappeared behind the western mountain range the effect on the skies was truly majestic. For more than an hour after its disappearance the red glow illumined the horizon as though an immense fire was in progress and only gave way gradually to the shades of night. The evening after dinner was spent in laying plans for the morrow, w^here so many attractions divided the time with the ascent of Pike's Peak, which was to be the main event of the day for the majority. It was again a late hour before the party broke up for the night, the smoker and club car having many attractions after an enforced absence of even only a couple of hours. H^v^^^v^sV^^^^^^^I mi/^' ^W HH^I^^^k' ^'r^l^^^l fl ^I^^K' 1 H L 1 ^^^iflSt^^^^^^M fcjrHS-iSP^ 1 1^ -' > " u Summit ot Pike's Peak 156 Friday, September 1 6, 1 904 AME through La Junta, Colorado, at 5.10 A. M., only one hour be- hind. We were pass- ing through a good, wholesome section of country when we got out of our berths this morning. At 7 A. M. we passed through Pueblo, stopping only for a few minutes, during which time we got morning papers. These told us of a se- vere storm the previ- ous day in Philadel- phia, during which they had a tremendous rainfall. It was a per- fect morning here and those who had elected to go up Pike's Peak congratulated themselves on having made that choice. Fifty-four of the party were on the list. Some of the others had been dis- suaded from the Peak trip by medical advice which made a bugbear of the rarity of the air. Several had made the ascent before and did not care to go again. Arrangements had been made for a special train at 9 A. M. and we were near enough to schedule time to make certain that we would reach the station in time for the special. We ran into Colorado Springs at 7.30 A. M. and were there taken in charge by the Colorado Midland, who ran us down to Manitou over their road and left us side-tracked at their station, at the top of a high hill overlooking the entire city. All those for the Peak at once started for the Cog Wheel Depot. McCoy said it was only a short walk and some of the party followed his lead and found the walk a pretty stiff one in this altitude. More took the trolley at the foot of the hill and reached the depot without any other exertion except that of taking a nickel from their pockets. The station from which the trains are boarded is a pretty stone structure at the mouth of Engelman Canon, between the Manitou 157 and Hiawatha Peaks. Rushing down through the Canon is Ruxton Creek, a fine stream of water whose source is in the perpetual snows of the Peaks far above. Tickets were soon procured for the party and, as the car would only accommodate fifty, a few were put on another train just start- ing to relieve us of the surplus. Charley McNamee had intended to go along, but was told by some one at the station that the trip had to be made through a large iron pipe which ran up the mountain from the end of the station platform. After one look at it Mc- Namee decamped and was not to be found when the car left. Soon after 9 A. M. our special left for its trip up the Peak, passing through fine scenery. The trains consist only of a single car and its attend- Manitou ant locomotive which pushes the car up from behind. The car is built in such a fashion that, on the average incline, the seats are level. The road has the regulation T rail track on either side, but in the centre is a double-cogged track into which a wheel in the centre of the engine is toothed to fit and give the impetus that forces the car up or holds it in coming down. The toothed wheel has alternate teeth on either side, taking a separate hold on the centre track, thus making every provision for safety. There were more than a few who felt some misgivings about being affected by the air on top of the mountain, but they neverthe- less took chances, and none of them appeared to be worrying over 158 it. Fortunately none of the parly was affected to any serious extent during the entire ride. Some of them complained of a shortness of breath and used but little exertion after reaching the top, while others complained of their hearing being slightly affected as long as they remained on the Peak and for some hours after reaching the bottom again. Doc Righter distributed some sugar pills when the train started, advising the recipients to take some if they felt dizziness overtaking them. The trip up the Peak is a most fascinating one and it is hard to find words that will adequately describe it and the sensations attending it. Several stops were made on the way up. At the altitude of 10,000 feet a beautiful view of the surrounding country Summit Pike's Peak was to be had, including the Garden of the Gods, which seemed to be but a little distance below us, although several miles distant. Fifteen hundred feet higher we passed the timber line, after which there is nothing to be seen but rugged rocks. Little stones, big stones, bigger stones, boulders and great rocks are spread before you in endless variety. Once in a great while a little moss appeared or a handful of dirt that gave foothold to a little Alpine plant with a small blue flower. These we afterwards found were forget-me- nots. 159 Off on the low side, sometimes near and sometimes out of sight, was the mountain trail up which you can go on burros or shank's mare. When it got up towards the top it seemed like a precarious foothold in many places among the loose stones. Yet we passed a number of people who were footing it up, hatless, coatless and per- Halt on Pike"s Peak spiring in great shape. They were earning all the glory that could be gotten out of it. Several times the engine stopped to take water from convenient tanks that were filled from pipe lines running up the mountain. At one of these stops Iiilly Brehm took a picture of 1 60 the special. The train ran with a jerky motion which was not at all pleasant. At times this was increased to such a violent extent that the engineer would slow up and regain our original form, but it was all part of the experience and only caused much laughter. ^ In about two hours the summit was reached and the pilgrims, feeling none the worse of the trip, left the car and mingled with the crowd of tourists of whom there were now five carloads at the top. The view from the Peak was a magnificent one or rather a series of them. Spread before us on all sides was a panorama which included 60,000 square miles of territory. Colorado Springs six- teen miles distant and Manitou nine miles down looked like gardens laid out in square beds. To the south were the Seven Lakes, the Raton mountains of New Mexico and the famous Spanish Peaks or twin breasts, the cities of Pueblo, Florence, Canon City and Altman, the latter being the highest incorporated city in the world. Cripple Creek, from whence on the average 25,000,000 dollars in gold is annually shipped, seemed to be but a short distance away. As Cripple Creek was to be our objective point to-morrow, it pos- sessed a more than passing interest to us. To the West was the range of Sangre de Cristo mountains, topped out with snow. In the northern direction lay the city of Denver, but owing to haziness in the atmosphere, it was not visible to us to-day. Under the lee of the stone building at the top quite a lot of snow was lying which was utilized by some of the party to make snow- balls which accidentally found their way among some of the numer- ous groups that were posing to have their pictures taken. There was also plenty of snow in the crevices down on the side of the Peak. A couple of the Seven Lakes had every appearance of being frozen over, as the railroad employes said they actually were. We did not get close enough to them to make sure of the fact. The building at the top is occupied by the United States Observatory, a restaurant, photograph gallery, telegraph station and another sou- venir shop. In the store and the restaurant highway robbery is com- mitted in the most unblushing manner. Samples of coffee, sand- wiches and pie were doled out at fifteen cents per sample with plenty of sauce from the waiters as condiments. The attendants on store and restaurant had evidently never been taught that civility costs nothing or that sugar catches more flies than vinegar. A number of telegrams were sent from the station and Petzoldt was not satis- fied with less than seven to his own share. That the world is after all but a small place was evidenced by our meeting on top of the Peak, Chief Engineer James C. Baxter, of the Philadelphia Fire Department. He had gone West with another commandery and was now on his homeward trip like our- selves. He received a cordial greeting from many of our fraters who knew him well. Just before i P. M. the several trains made preparations to descend. As they pulled out to the starting platform there was a wild scramble for seats regardless of the train upon which the 161 ascent had been made. A regular football scrimmage ensued at each car door as it came down and the cars were filled with more than their complement, only to have the surplus weeded out by the conductor who would only allow the seats filled. They finally got off one by one, the engines backing down in front to do the holding back act. They had not proceeded far down the mountain before one of the engines was disabled by bursting a steam pipe. It had to be side-tracked on a little spur of track farther down. As the succeeding trains came down they were obliged to take on a pro- portion of the stranded passengers who had to stand in the aisle. Baxter was one of the unfortunates, but took the matter philosophi- cally. At a telephone station, where we waited for orders, a little Summit Pike's Peak girl boarded the trains with little bunches of forget-me-nots, gath- ered on the mountain, which she quickly disposed of among the passengers. Just after starting down quite a young man, who had been particularly active at the summit, darting here and there with his camera and having all sorts of fun, collapsed in one of the cars. A doctor and several of his friends had hard labor for an hour to get him into shape again, the breath seemingly having left him for good. About half-way up is a printing office from which the Pike's Peak Daily News is issued. When we left the station at the foot a 162 youiit? lady reporter distributed slips of paper to the passengers with a. request to write their names thereon. When the train came down opposite the News oflfice it was again boarded by some one with a supply of the papers on which all the names had been printed since our ascent. The number was soon exhausted, each tourist desiring one as a souvenir. The foot of the mountain was reached a little after 2 P. M. At the station was a mob of Boston tourists which scrambled and gouged for a seat in the cars to make the ascent, equal to the crowd at the top who had desired to come down. One trip of the kind appears to satisfy most all of the party. They were glad to be able to say that they had been up Pike's Peak, but did not especially hanker after a repetition, at least just at present. Quite a number of the pilgrims secured burros for a ride back to the train, but the majority were satisfied with the trolley cars. Luncheon was still on tap for them and was quickly disposed of, as time appeared to be precious. In the meantime those left down in Manitou had also been en- joying themselves. Some had been shopping both in Manitou and Colorado Springs, which is soon reached by trolley. Rides to North and South Cheyenne Canons, the Garden of the Gods and up the Ute Pass. The last is the route of the old Indian trail through the mountains, used for centuries back, but is now broadened and made into a fine driving road. The example of the left-overs was quickly followed by the Peakers after luncheon. Carriages were in demand as well as burros, the ladies taking to the latter form of con- veyance with great gusto and all being anxious for their pictures to be taken while on one. Maneely and Simpson and their wives were photographed on burros in the shadow of the balanced rock in the Garden of the Gods and Maneely 's burro has been swaybacked ever since. Rides were also taken through Williams Canon to Williams Cavern and up the Ute Pass to the Cave of the Winds. These are decorated with stalactites and stalagmites and curious formations like the Luray Cave. Down in the cavern, Mrs. George Kessler ran into a friend, in the dim candle light, whom she had not seen for years, another evidence of the smallness of our earthly habita- tion. Afternoon and evening many took the trolleys to Colorado Springs, whose fine stores had ereat attraction for the ladies. Some of the Knights called at the office of the Colorado Springs Gazette and were given a joyous reception by Col. George Nox MacCain, who was formerly a member of Governor Hastings' military family and well known in Philadelphia Masonic circles. He is now president of the Gazette Publishing Company. After showing the boys through his new quarters he announced that he had a telegram to the Commandery from St. Louis, which he proceeded to read, as follows : 163 St. Louis, Sept. 15th, 1904. Mary Commaudery, Knights Templar, Colorado Springs, Col. Pennsylvania State Building, ladies' reception room, at your disposal for headquarters during your stay in St. Louis. Thomas H. Garvin. This proved a welcome invitation to the ladies in the morning, as it assured them a resting place at the World's Fair, and Col. Garvin came in for a goodly meed of praise. Arrangements had been made with the Colorado Midland for our trip to Cripple Creek to-morrow in return for their kindness in giving us trackage at this point. About 10 P. M. a party of bull- dozing railroad men from the Colorado Short Line made an appear- ance in the smoker headquarters and tried to induce us to make a change in our arrangements. They were sent to the right-about by Mclntyre who gave them his opinion in no undecided terms. There had been a thunderstorm up on the Peak this afternoon which cleared the air considerably. Some of the Boston Command- ery were seen after dinner at the Cliffe House, who said that their party had suffered very severely from the rarity of the atmosphere while up on the mountain and that more than half of them had been affected thereby. Midnight had come and gone before the last of the pilgrims returned from their evening tramps and toiled their weary way up the steep hill to our train. Laguna, New Mexico 164 Saturday, September 17, 1904 ATE to bed and early to rise was the motto of the party this morning. A special train was to call for us right at home this morning at 8.15 A. M. and two hours before that time all were astir. Antici- pation of our ride to Cripple Creek was partly the cause, but many also wanted to get another ride on a burro this morn- ing and jolly parties were on view at the station platform at an early hour. Harry Heist made his appearance clean shaven and was hailed at once as Father Moriarity, dressed up in a raincoat backwards and mounted on a horse to have his picture taken as one of the original Mission settlers. The horse belonged to the agent of the burro stables here, who had called to bid his customers of yesterday good- bye. While he was talking the horse was utilized for rides up and down the hill. There were numerous demonstrators of the art of fancy riding, especially the boys, Frank Reese and Harry Hinckle, Jr., Billy Ray and Jim Keller also managed to ride to the bottom of the hill and back without killing the horse. The morning had opened crisp and fresh and all were in good spirits for the ride of forty-five miles ahead of us. Meanwhile another detachment of burros was brought up the hill and short trips made on them and poses for pictures taken thereon. Mrs. Crist was beguiled into getting on one, thinking her husband was going with her on another. As her steed moved ofif down the hill alone she made tempting offers to one of the colored porters to lead him by the bridle, but Harry had his berths to get in order and was obliged to leave her to her fate, but the burro -brought her back all right. Promptly at 8.15 A. M. the special drew up beside us and was as promptly occupied. It consisted of two closed cars and an observation car entirely open. Seats in the latter were at a premium in short order. The price held but for a few minutes after starting 165 and then fell away below par. Within the first couple of miles we passed through eight tunnels, and the clouds of smoke and barrels of cinders that drove into the observation car from the two engines that were pulling us drove all but a half dozen into the other cars. It was also very cold there, but the few who stuck it out professed Father Moriarily to enjoy life in the open air much better. After a short ride in the open country up the Ute Valley the road enters a mountain gorge through which it runs for miles. The tendency is upward all the time and a grade of four per cent, or over two hundred feet to a i66 mile is a common occurrence. The precipitous rocky walls rise a couple of thousand feet above your heads on one side of the car and on the other side, far down in the bottom of the gorge, is a sparkling stream, the Fontaine que Eouille, which dashes down over a rough, rocky bottom, making a perfect picture. The building of the road through this gorge is considered a great achievement in railroad engineering. All through the mountainous ride to-day the sides of the hills were marked with prospect holes looking like woodpecker holes in the sides of the trees. Sometimes up near the top, again in the centre and close to the bottom you could see where dozens of miners or prospectors had dug into the hills a little way in search of the root of all evil and left their marks in the shape of little heaps of debris. Cripple Creek Railroad Occasionally one would dig a long trench along the face of the hill in a vain search for some evidence that would lead to a trace of the gold he w^as in search of. Altogether they were reminders of many a day of toil and probably privation on the part of the gold-seeker. After getting out of the gorge the remainder of our journey was simply a succession of the wildest and most romantic scenes imaginable. The evergreen of the trees that lined most of the hills mingled well with the colors peculiar to the mountains and with the dashing little waterfalls and the numerous quiet lakes or ponds formed a series of never-to-be-forgotten pictures with the rugged rocks towering over all. As for curves there is probably no railroad in the country that can equal it. The train was continually twisting in and out like a snake, thus presenting a change of scenery all the 167 time. It was an easy thing- at times to look out of the windows of the first car into those of the last. The entire trip was uphill and the puffing- locomotives seemed to have all they wanted to do to pull our light train. At one point a signboard marked the eleva- tion of 10,600 feet. Pike's Peak was occasionally in view, but excited little attention in the face of newer attractions. The first town we passed was Gillette, a typical mountain min- ing camp. Five miles further on we began to find the paying gold mines and entered the true field. Rounding Bull Hill many mines were in full view at one time, most of them having their names painted on signs on the hoisting derricks. The names are of all varieties, such as Isabella, Pharmacist, Acacia, Vindicator, Lillie and Victor. From this point on the gold producers were as thick City Cripple Creek as fleas on a dog. There were also many prosperous-looking towns along the line of the railroad. Independence, Portland, Eclipse, Victor, Elkton and Anaconda were passed in quick succession. Victor was far below the grade of the road and we had to run about a mile past it and then back down a steep siding to the station. Many inquiries were made as to whether we would have a chance to go down into one of the mines, but we had been advised by the railroad men not to make the attempt on account of the big labor troubles here. Although there had been war and bloodshed between the union miners and the authorities we saw no evidences of that state of aflfairs. Cripple Creek was reached at 10,40 A. M. and the pilgrims divided up in parties to do the town, and for the next hour and a 168 half were busily engaged in doing it. The main street had a fine lot of stores to interest the ladies, as well as numerous curio shops. We had rather expected a small town with a curious collection of temporary frame buildings and an overplus of saloons. When we were ushered through a handsome depot onto a main street lined with tall brick buildings forming a business quarter incident to a populous city of several square miles, our astonishment was genu- ine. When we were informed that after the city was practically destroyed by fire these same brick buildings were all rebuilt in four months we concluded that we were truly amidst a nest of hustlers. And yet if the gold gives out some day, as it is almost certain to do and has done in most mining cities, this scene of life and activity will become as barren again as it was previous to the discovery of the precious metal. The light air at this point seemed to affect more of the party to-day than that of Pike's Peak did on yesterday. Ollie Price especially suffered from dizziness, but he might have got that from walking up hill in some of the back streets of the town. Luncheon had to be provided for here, and there were plenty of places to secure it. The National Hotel was called upon by a few, but most of the party patronized the cafes and restaurants on the main street. The Delmonico was the entertainer of about one- half the crowd, who were well supplied both in quality and quantity. One side of the restaurant was partitioned off into booths or boxes to accommodate four persons. If you ate in a booth you must eat a quarter's worth or pay that amount anyhow, as you were informed by a sign over each one. If you occupied a toadstool at the counter you simply paid for what you ordered. The chinaware was a relic of the stone era. Although spotlessly clean and of pure white, it was all a full half inch in thickness and of generous size, being probably used as ammunition in case of a riot or an attack on the restaurant. The first course of soup resulted in a generous bowl of good home-made article, the eating of which precluded taking any more lunch on the part of a good many. An order for beef- steak brought in enough meat for three men, with a full measure of potatoes to match. The dessert of rice pudding was served in individual pans, in which it was baked, about six by nine inches in size and full two inches deep. Apple dumplings resembled a small football and they had twisted doughnuts four inches by eight by actual measurement. Everything was of the best quality, how- ever, and no one had occasion to go hungry from the Delmonico. Either breathing the rarified air above ground or working in the depths of the earth must breed excellent appetites here if we can judge from the ordinary bills of fare supplied at the restaurants. Another constitutional around the town was necessary to settle our luncheon and then we strolled back towards the train. A de- serted gold mine just back of the main street still had all its para- phernalia in good order above the ground and its picture was taken as a sample of the work necessary to carry on operations. At 12.45 169 p. M. we again boarded our train and resumed railroad travel. Another more than enjoyable ride ensued on the back track. Every- body agreed that there was more rugged and picturesque scenery crowded into thirty miles of this road than could be enjoyed on any other road that we knew of. Pike's Peak came in prominence again and seemed to have more snow showing on it than we had seen this morning, so they probably had a snowstorm up there. They are liable to these at most any time. Going back through the Ute Valley tunnels we reached Manitou to find that our train had been run down to Colorado Springs Union Station, preparatory to leaving to-night for Kansas City, The special took us down to the same location after leaving off some of the party at Manitou who wished another trip around that town. Gold Mine, Cripple Creek There being plenty of spare time, about twenty-five of the party resolved to take another burro ride through South Cheyenne Canon. They boarded a trolley and were soon at the entrance to the Canon. Here a difficulty ensued in regard to fitting out the party with animals. One-half the burros were equipped with side saddles which were of course appropriated to the use of the female con- tingent, but they would have none of it. They were rough riders and would ride hairpin fashion or not at all. The consequence was that most of the men had to use the side-saddled burros and learn to hang on by one leg. 170 The party finally got started, but the burros evidently scented rain in the air and refused to go out of a walk in order to give the crowd a ducking. Their premonition were correct, as the rain soon came down heavily and the burros enjoyed it immensely. When the Seven Falls was reached at the head of the Canon there was a bedraggled group of riders, but none the less jolly and noisy. The pilgrims rested at that point until the heaviest of the rain was over and then, during a lull in the storm, hastened back to the en- trance as fast as burros can be made to hasten. When that point was reached the rain had ceased and when the shelter of the trolley was attained the sun came out and gave them pleasant weather. Manilou Cavalry Meanwhile the other pilgrims, many of whom had fallen very much in love with Colorado Springs were making a farewell round of the city. A few slight showers fell, accompanied by high winds, but did not dampen their ardor in the least. The stores were the principal attraction, but the Antlers Hotel, one of the best known hostelries in the country, had many visitors and admirers. Trolley rides were taken all around the city and the crowd seemed loth to give the place up finally. Mclntyre and Keen, like many others who wanted to be fresh shaved for Sunday, drifted into a barber shop. Finding the pro- prietor also furnished baths, they asked if he could accommodate 171 them with one. "Certainly," said he, as he looked them both over from head to foot. Calling to one of his assistants he said : "John, fill up the little tub for this little gentleman and fill the big tub for the large gentleman." Mac says they were accommodated accord- ing to their size, but Keen insisted that the boss thought Mac needed the most washing. By 6 P. M. the party began to drift into the train for dinner and all were on hand before 7 P. M., when we were scheduled 'to leave. We did not get off, however, until 7.30 P. M., at which time the train started out on its long trip to Kansas City. The crowd was tired out with the two days' outing around Pike's Peak and was unanimously of the opinion that a party has seldom had the experi- ences crowded into two days that they had just finished enjoying. After dinner for some time all were busily engaged from the smoker to the rear of the train in relating events that had occurred. Later on in one of the cars a German picnic was held, at which Mrs. Kessler, Mrs. Eiler, Mrs. Miller and Mrs. Schuehler were hostesses. Bologna and Sweitzer sandwiches, sweet pickles, lemon- ade and other good things were daintily served. In another car progressive euchre again held sway by invitation of Mrs. Charles Reese and Mrs. Harry Reese. The winners of prizes were Miss Price, Mrs. Hinckle, Mrs. Crist and Messrs. Sheibley, McCoy and Bair. Thus came to an end two days of varied pleasure, interest and instruction that have seldom been equaled and naturally all were sorry to leave Manitou and Colorado Springs with their interesting environs. 172 Sunday, September 18, 1 904 FTER a storm comes a calm. Following the ad- ventures and strenuous life of the past week we expected to quietly spend this day in rest, as it nat- urally should be. The more so as we expected the two succeeding days to be scenes of renewed activity at the World's Fair. Consequently there was not so much early rising as usual. This state of affairs was ac- centuated by the fact that we had again picked up an hour of our lost time in the night by advancing eastward. At 6.30 A. M. we passed through Kingsley. At this hour the Rovers were promptly on hand for their morning meal with the exception of Judd. At the first call for breakfast at 7 A. M. there were many vacant seats, which was an anomaly on this trip. We were now running through the great Kansas corn belt and a fine pastoral country it was. Everything looked peaceful and undisturbed on this fine Sabbath morning. The weather was also peaceful, as it was getting warm and there was little air stir- ring. We had got down to level ground again during the night and had no rarified air to contend with. Stopped at St. Johns at 7.40 A. M. Just beyond this station there was a flock of wild pigeons that arose from a cornfield containing thousands of the birds. This used to be one of the most common sights in the West, but the slaughter of the birds wherever they had a roost has been such that the sight is now a very uncommon occurrence. At Hutchinson at 9 A. M. we were enabled to get out for a short walk, being obliged to wait for a train coming in the other direction. The walk was cut still shorter by the luiexpected quick arrival of the train. At 10.15 A. M. we made another stop at Newton, where we 173 were able to secure Kansas City and Topeka morning papers. Just beyond the station, when we had started again, a couple of genuine cowboys were rounding up a herd of steers to get them into a cattle pen in front of which cars were waiting to load them up for the Eastern markets. It was now getting very warm in the sun, but a cool air was blowing in the car windows. Florence was passed through at 11.05 ^- ^'I- The ladies were again on their travels to and fro from the baggage car, disposing of souvenirs in their trunks and getting out a fresh invoice of dress goods to shine in at the Fair. The diary keepers and long letter writers also had a chance to make up for lost time and let the folks at home know where we were at. Luncheon made an agreeable break at noon in the monotony of the ride. There was little to be seen outside but cattle, cornfields and the regulation patterned country towns and villages we had been looking at all our lives in the East. At 1. 1 5 P. M. we passed through Osage City, where they were mining coal on both sides of the track. It was a very hot afternoon and the Commissary had ordered his shop to be closed all day, not only on account of the day, but also because we were passing through a Prohibition State. Sundry sly hints that he gave out here and there as to the consequence likely to happen if any deputy sheriffs or constables should come on board the train were swallowed in some cases hook and line and afforded Mac some of the heartiest laughs he has had on this trip. At Emporia this afternoon during the few minutes we had on the platform Jim Keller made a speaking acquaintance with a young lady who was standing there with some friends. His fraters kindly warned the young lady by shouting from the windows and platforms "He's married" and "We'll tell your wife" with other encouraging remarks. He finally borrowed a Mary pin and pre- sented to the lady just in time to jump for the train as it moved off. The young lady was so taken by surprise that she hardly expressed her thanks. Thinking to express them more fully she sent a letter to the Commandery containing them. We had thought to print the letter in these pages, but as she describes Jim therein as old, fat and bald-headed we refrain from doing so out of regard to his feelings. At 4.40 P. M. we pulled into Kansas City's Union Depot and vacated the cars for an hour or two for a sight of the city. We were told that our train should be in waiting for us again at 6 P. M, in time for our dinner. With this understanding the party sought the outside of the station and took trolley cars indiscriminately as they happened along. So quickly was this done that we failed to receive notice that two special trolleys were in waiting for our use and con- sequently could not avail ourselves of the courtesy tendered by our Missouri fraters. One car going north ran its passengers into a Blackville suburb from which they quickly retraced their way and went eastward into a fine quarter of the city. 174 Many of the restaurants and light lunch wagons downtown had Chile con Carne posted up as one of the attractions of their bills of fare. The trolley cars of every branch were overcrowded and re- minded us very much of the elastic trolleys of our own home. Shortly after 6 P. M. everyone gathered into the station expecting to walk into the train and partake of dinner. But a careful search of the tracks revealed no Mary train. Minute after minute passed and stretched into an hour, but there was still no sign of the missing cars. Interviews with station agents, train dispatchers, railroad agents and anybody with brass buttons on his coat, resulted in no satisfac- tion. The agent of the Missouri Pacific, which was to take us in charge from here to St. Louis, was finally coralled in a second story office of the building. He pretended to talk over a 'phone to the yards where our train was side-tracked and promised to have it very shortly. Very shortly proved to mean another forty minutes and our people were meanwhile roosting around on baggage trucks, trunks or anything else that came handy. It being Sunday night, we were inclined very much to agree with David, who said in his haste that all men were liars. If David had amended his assertion by saying all railroad men he would have gotten our unanimous vote. It was 7.40 P. M. when our train at last pulled in and allowed the pilgrims to find comfortable seats and get to work at their belated meal. At 8.30 P. M. the train pulled out again and ran a couple of miles down the track for another stop, halting beside a suburban train full of noisy Sunday excursionists. Our Commissary depart- ment had opened up after leaving the station and we were besieged by the young- people on the other train with requests for a cooling draught of any kind. At another stop made a little further on a number of tramps, who tried to beat their way to the Fair, had to be chased from the trucks by the train hands several times before we got away without them. It was an elegant moonlight night, but sharp lightning was playing around the horizon. The weather was hot, our tempers had been still hotter at the station, but a good dinner and cooling refresh- ments later on reduced us to our normal state. Later on we ran into a heavy rain storm. The patter of the rain on the roofs and car windows made us feel thankful that we were under shelter. A vote of thanks were formally returned to Billy Matos for his share in securing headquarters at the Pennsylvania Building at the Fair. The Night Owls were in full force in the smoker to-night and exchanged reminiscences until a late hour. 175 Monday, September 19, 1904 MNING fiercely when we awoke this morn- ing. It was a bad look- out for our first day at the Fair and it had every appearance that it would keep up until after we had pulled into the Union Station at 6.30 A. M. While lying there the clouds broke away and it for- tunately remained clear during the balance of the day, and evening. Breakfast had been advanced a half hour in order to give us all the time possible through the day. The second half being urg- ent in requests to the early birds not to dally too long over their morning oatmeal and mush. As a result the meal was over long before we had reached the location at which we were to be sidetracked. We did not know where this was to be when we went into the station and were afraid to have anyone leave until it was known, so that all would know here to look for us to-night. It proved to be at Pastime Park, where the Terminal Railroad had a yard for the stowage of its spare cars. To reach there we were taken over the Belt Line road and made the entire circuit of the city in so doing. Down along the muddy Mississippi, past the levee with its now infinitesimal fleet of river steamers, past all the lumber yards and sawmills in town, iron foundries and all other kinds of industrial buildings, we ran over to the butt end of nowhere. That was Pastime Park. It was not a great distance from the Fair Grounds, but some muddy streets had to be traversed before reaching the trolley cars that ran that way, unless you walked two blocks down the main line of the 176 Wabash Road. The one good feature the place possessed was pri- vacy. That it was private but lonely past redemption could not be denied. We were, however, only to make use of it for one night, but one was sufficient. Application had been made to the Wabash to sidetrack us inside the grounds where they had trackage for their own trains, but coming from the Pennsylvania the answer could be foretold. It was well on to 9 A. M. before the last of the pilgrims struck out for the Exposition, all reaching there without any greater mis- haps than muddy shoes. Automobile rides and runs around the intramural railway were first in order to get the lay of the land somewhat. There was land enough to satisfy almost anybody, as the weary tramps between buildings did not rest one particularly after strolling up and down aisles for an hour or two. Taking the cars on the railway did not improve matters much, as its stations were located about midway between buildings and involved much walking. It is not our purpose to attempt any descriptions of the Fair buildings or their contents, as they have been fully ventilated in the newspapers. We will note, however, that wherever anything was to be found on sale in the buildings you would find a hook-nosed individual in charge of the sales or overlooking the returns from the same. Any old price was asked for the souvenirs of all kinds and if you gave more than half of what was demanded you got well stuck. We were to stay all day and evening in the grounds and consequently had to lunch and dine there. There was where the legalized highway robbers got their work in again. Except at the Inside Inn, where you got a fine meal at reasonable rates, all the other large restaurants on the grounds had made up their minds to allow their owners to retire after the Fair was over and they lived up to that requirement. The various exhibition and State buildings were fully explored. The Pennsylvania Building was a handsome one and nicely fitted up, but was given rather an obscure location on a back alley of the Inside Inn. The big policemen guarding the Liberty Bell looked very natural and homelike, especially the big Matzoth with the huge nose that guards the crossing at Juniper and Market streets. They were very tired of their job and longed for the time when they would be relieved. Everybody entered their names in the big register in the reception hall and checked their umbrellas and wraps which the hot and clear weather made unnecessary. The buildings were the main attention until closing time, and then the Pike had full sway for the evening. There was not much new there. The same old barkers and fakirs, the same old Arabs and camels in procession, the same old hooche-kooche shows occu- pied the floor and drew the same old quarter or half dollar. The fire-fighters gave a good exhibition and some of the other shows had good features. The illuminations at night were on a fine scale, 177 but after the blaze we had seen at San Francisco did not excite much enthusiasm among our party. They were rather more enjoyed in the expectation than in the reahty. The FiHpino exhibition was one that attracted a great deal of attention and gave much satisfaction. The concert that the civilized residents or Visayans gave drew fine audiences all day long. They gave exhibitions of their national dances, sang their native songs, accompanied by their own orchestra in very good time, and acted little pantomime plays. When they wound up their show by play- ing and singing the Star-Spangled Banner in very good English and perfect time, they aroused their audiences to an enthusiastic pitch. When you were informed that the performers knew no Eng- lish six months previously their present attempts seemed really re- markable. The Negrotes and Igorotes were, of course, of a much lower intelligence. They could ascend a lofty tree in their grounds with the agility of a monkey and slide down again as quickly as a snake. The naked little rats who shot at nickels with bow and arrow had learned to bid the people who got in the line of their shots to "stand back" and to exclaim "pretty^ good" when their aim at a nickel proved true, Jake Haines adopted a little wild scion of the Igorotes for a couple of days and had his picture taken as protector of the infant. We could tell now that we had got within reaching distance of home by the numbers of friends and acquaintances we would run across in the Fair, many of whom were members of Mary. But all were too busily engaged to waste time in more than a passing greeting and inquiry as to what kind of times we had had. It was a late hour when the bulk of the pilgrims returned to the train to-night. The train hands had been amusing themselves by watch- ing the captive balloon go up and down inside the enclosures, seeing the reflection of the illuminations and the searchlight as it was projected around the country and down into the city. Gasoline flares had been placed in a line within view of each other from the train ^ to the trolley cars to guide the pilgrims, and Charle> Stump remained for a long time at the road to point them in the right direc- tion. By midnight but a few remained out. One party came up the railroad and were driven off by a Wabash train, to the infinite alarm of Mrs. Mclntyre who thought her last hour had come. One belated couple did not reach the train until nearly morning, having taken a wrong turn from the trolley and lost their way. There was no policeman in sight and they tramped over half the suburbs of St. Louis in a vain attempt to locate either themselves or the train. Just as they had about given up in despair they saw the banner of Mary on the side of the smoker. Tiptoeing along the train to get in without their late arrival being known, they found every vestibuled step shut in tightly. While trying to rap on Haines win- 17S u^^,-A hv a mrtv of niclit owls who were smoking dow *ey "•.7; J^Xtms OT n Iftecfon the train they found to frrSvpl secret They brought m enough clay on then teet to starr TwhArd and were given away in the morning by the porter, who ^woTe they I'd -^ all over St. Louis to give him the job of h:s life. Devil's Ink Well 179 Tuesday, September 20, 1904 ECAUSE it was to be our last day in St. Louis seemed to be no reason why there should be any hurry about turning out this morning. Every- body went to bed tired out last night except the party of smokers and the lost couple, and they retired early this morn- ing. Most of the party was out bright as dollars again, although the weather was still very hot. The sun came up clear and started in im- mediately to attend to business. Prior to leaving the train orders were isued that all the pilgrims should meet at the Pennsylvania Building at noon, as arrangements had been made to have a photo- graph of the entire party taken on the steps of the building. Quite a number of the party took the trolley cars down to the heart of the city to-day before going to the Exposition. They wanted souvenirs of St. Louis in addition to those from the Fair, and had to make the rounds of some of the stores to secure them as well as to make some purchases on the Club account. It was a long ride to and from Sixty-sixth street to Fourth, and the morning was all too short for the necessary business, but some little time remained for sightseeing before the rendezvous at the Pennsylvania Building. But the crowd began to drift in to that point toward the noon hour, where they found that the official photographer, William H. Rau, of Philadelphia, had his assistants with an immense camera and tripod set up in the road in front to take a 14x17 photo, which would distinctly show all the faces of those taken on it. Some little time was taken to group the party, during which time Custodian Garvin had the building closed to visitors and the big policemen tried to keep all intruders from the steps. But with all precautions three or four ringers managed to get into focus when the shutter was snapped. 180 Immediately after the picture was taken Eminent Commander Stewart requested all the pilgrims to gather in the Ladies' Reception Room, which had been set aside as the Commandery's headquarters. There he announced that it would be proper for the 'Frisco Club to extend thanks to Colonel Garvin for his hospitality to them. The suggestion was immediately approved and, on motion of Past Com- mander Heist, a committee consisting of Heist, Eiler and Matos was appointed to draft resolutions of thanks. The committee, after a short session, returned with the following resolution, which was read and unanimously adopted: Resolved, That the Sir Knights of Mary Comniandery and the ladies accompanying them, forming the 'Frisco Club of Mary Comniandery of 1904, do hereby extend their hearty appreciation and sincere thanks to Hon. Thomas H. Garvin, Custodian of the Pennsylvania Building at the Louisana Purchase Exposition at St. Louis, Mo., for his courtesy and kindness in extending the use of the Ladies' Reception Room in that building to the members of the 'Frisco Club during their sojourn in the World's Fair City, September 19th and 20th, 1904. When Colonel Garvin was called in, and Sir Stewart presented to him the resolution, he thanked him for the courtesy and said that no greater pleasure could have been afforded him than to be able to extend to the pilgrims of Mary Commandery the use of the building. Nearly all the party took their luncheon to-day at the Inside Inn, it being the most convenient place after the meeting just held, and had the pleasure of seeing a quick response made by the World's Fair Fire Department to an alarm coming from the Inn. Sitting around on the chairs of the front porch enjoying a smoke after their lunch, the party thought the firemen were running to exercise their horses, but it was afterwards found that a genuine alarm had been turned in for a slight blaze in the kitchen. Fortunately it was easily put out without the aid of the department which had re- sponded quickly and in goodly numbers. The afternoon and evening were a repetition of yesterday, so far as sightseeing and search after amusement on the Pike were concerned. The Filipinos again received a large share of attention and the camera fiends took special delight in reproducing their coun- terfeit presentments. Nor did the islanders object, having no doubt gone through a long course of training in that respect since the opening of the show. Last night each section of pilgrims had seen something that laid over anything in the grounds. Upon exchang- ing experiences these were found to be far apart, and to-day they exchanged and visited each other's pet hobbies and endorsed or con- demned their opinions. It was so hot yesterday that every one who had carried wraps around all day without needing them and with manifest discomfort, resolved to leave them at home to-day, especially as the weather this morning proved a continuation of the same. About 3 P. M. to-day the air took on a sudden change and got very perceptibly cooler, and from that time on to the departure of our train to-night the want of those wraps was sincerely lamented, as it gradually grew still colder. There was a wide difference of opinion in regard to the Boer War exhibition. Some thought it, with its genuine Boers, real, live Englishmen and machine guns, the most reaHstic scene that could be put on the stage. Others claimed it was nothing like the real thing. So you paid your money and took your choice. All were pretty unanimous, though, about the fruit exhibits in Horticultural Hall. For size, quantity and beauty the grapes, apples, pears and other exhibits were unequaled. Some of the States had built fine pavilions and made grand exhibits of fruits, both fresh and canned or bottled. Our train was to be returned during the afternoon to the Union Station, from which point we were scheduled to leave at ii P. M., so that it was necessary to leave the Fair by lo P. M. Some of the tired ones began to leave after getting dinner at 7 P. M. The Ter- minal Company had been running trains between the grounds and Union Station regularly at all hours, which had got to be called the shuttle trains from being constantly shot back and forth over the one track. The cars were built like freight cars, with a sliding door on the side for entrance and rough seats with straight backs. If you did not get a seat there was plenty of standing room. But a few minutes were necessary to reach the station where the early comers had a wonderful sight in the crowds of people who jammed the station until 10 P. M., although being sent off by train loads every few minutes. For size, our Broad Street Station and Reading Terminal could be put inside and nearly lost. There are thirty-two tracks with plat- forms between, and the electric engines of the Terminal road have to bring in and take outside all trains to keep smoke and gas out of the building, which is a somewhat dark and forbidding-looking place, although the roof is lofty and covered with skylights, which leaked in great shape during our stay here yesterday morning. There was an outer space, open to everybody, which was black with people, who could scarcely move or turn on account of their num- ber. Sliding gates admitted those whose train was shortly due to an inner space, which was still fenced off from the train shed. From this another examination of tickets allowed the fortunate holders to get to their trains when they pulled in. Two high flights of steps leading to bridges, which crossed to the upper floor of the station and led to the streets, allowed incoming passengers to get through without mingling with those who were outward bound. On each bridge was a man with a megaphone, who announced in each direc- tion the name of the train which was coming in and the number of the track on which it was located. For two or three hours it was a more wonderful show to watch the crowds arriving and departing from the station than it was to wander around the fair grounds. There was a Bureau of Information down stairs that was well named, as it kept all the real information 182 that it possessed, if any, tightly locked up in its drawers. If the same number of anxious inquirers had besieged the windows of that every night since the fair opened, they must have filled two or three insane asylums from the officials on the inside by this time. Our train was backed in at lo P. M., and all the bees that were in at once swarmed into their hive, and were glad to get there. Mr. and Mrs. Bowker were to leave us here, intending to stay a few days longer at the fair, in company with friends they had met. Again we had an offer to be sent out ahead of the regular train if all our party should be on hand a few minutes ahead of its start- ing time. Of course there had to be three or four loiterers to keep us on the anxious bench for the final quarter of an hour. But they sauntered in within three minutes of the time and we were started out promptly with a clear track ahead at ii P. M. Notwithstanding the fact that it was a dead tired party of pilgrims, no one seemed disposed to retire early. All realized that we had but one more night to spend on the train, and it was long after midnight when the relation of experiences and funny incidents ceased to resound through the cars. John Robbins was prepared for an attack on his department when the train came in, and the commissary was never so crowded as on that night, A proof of the picture taken to-day had also arrived at the train, and that was an additional inducement to remain up and give orders for the same. After the ladies had retired from the smoker, that car was the scene of an improvised "Night in Bohemia" for another hour. Songs and stories of the trip, good, bad and indifferent, made the time pass pleasantly until the fraters were compelled to seek their berths for a few hours' sleep. So came to an end our two days at the World's Fair, crowded to the last moment with instruction and pleas- ure. 183 Wednesday, September 21,1 904 OOL and pleasant weath- er greeted us this morning as a fitting climax for our last full day upon the train, which had become so much like home to us. Everybody had been tired out last night and slept well during the few hours they had to rest. We arrived at Indianapolis at 6.40 A. M. Our schedule allowed us an hour and a quarter stop here, but as the hour was too early to see much, and there was little to be seen anyhow, it was resolved to cut the time short and take in an additional hour in Pittsburg this evening. Ervin Hope had resolved to take the back track from here to Chicago and visit a son who was living there, and left us at this point to make the trip. After breakfast the pilgrims packed their trunks for the last time and had Stump check them for their home addresses. We passed through Richmond, Indiana, at 8.45 A. M. A short walk outside found the air crisp and cool even in the sun. Our streak of hot weather had been left behind somewhere for good. The country through which we were riding this morning made a fine showing- as an agricultural district. In the orchards the trees were so laden with apples that the limbs had to be propped up. Corn was of a surprising height, and the fine fields of tobacco gave much encouragement for future pleasure to the occupants of the smoker. Soon after leaving Richmond, we crossed the Ohio line and reached Dayton at 10.05 A. M. The next short stop was at Lima at 10.30 A. M. Much regret was expressed this morning that the pil- g-rimage was drawing so nearly to a close. Many wished that it was just beginning, and not a few would have liked to go right out over the same grounds again. 184 There was a number of pretty features connected with the morning ride. The pilgrims of car C presented Doc. Wells with a handsome travelling satchel as a token of their esteem, and in grate- ful remembrance of many kindnesses shown them. Charley Bair was spokesman for the donors, and the doctor, in acce])ting the gift, said it would be a constant reminder to him of the many pleasant hours spent on the San Francisco pilgrimage. The ladies of car A had planned a surprise for Mrs. Allen, but before it was over, several others were sprung. While down town in St. Louis yesterday Mrs. Holt, acting as chairlady of the con- spirators, led the crowd to the souvenir spoon case in a large jewelry store, ostensibly to increase her stock of spoons. Asking advice from her companions, she took one selected by Mrs. Allen, another by Mrs. Mclntyre, and a third by Mrs. Stewart, as the prettiest in the case. Nothing more was thought of Mrs. Holt's collection until to-day, when the ladies were called together by Mrs. Mclntyre, who had some remarks to make. Addressing the President of the Auxil- iary as "Mother Allen," she referred to the pleasant associations of the trip, as well as many others, and asked her to accept from the ladies a token of the esteem and love which they all felt for her. Mrs. Allen, who was much affected by the surprise as well as the manner of the presentation, thanked the ladies for this and all other kindnesses showered upon her during the trip. She then turned to Mrs. Stewart and furnished her with another surprise by presenting a box containing a testimonial to her from the ladies of the car. Mrs. Stewart also returned her thanks for the remembrance and for the pleasant time she had, adding, "I would like to take another trip like it right now." Mrs. Allen then turned to Mrs. Mclntyre and administered the third knock-out by begging her acceptance of a like testimonial from the ladies of the car in requital for the pleas- ure she had afforded them by her company on the trip. After Mrs. Mclntyre had feelingly responded, each of the recipients fell to examining their presents, and each found the spoon of her own selection at the store yesterday. Three more surprised and grateful ladies would be hard to find. x\t 1 1 A. M. every one was called to meet in the dining car for special business. When all had assembled. Eminent Commander Stewart administered another solar plexus blow by presenting to Sir Knight Mclntyre, on behalf of the entire club, a handsome cut- glass punch bowl with ladle and cups and base, stating that the whole was a slight testimonial of the appreciation by the pilgrims, male and female, of the laborious work performed by the Commis- sary on this pilgrimage. Mac. was so much affected by this thought- ful remembrance of his fellow travellers that he could not respond for a few moments, but recovered himself shortly and gave vent to his thankfulness in a short speech. For a half hour afterwards he was kept busy by the individual pilgrims, who wished to also per- sonally thank him for his many kindnesses to them. Mac. also had a little innings of his own by presenting to Dr. Wells a handsome i8.s stein from the World's Fair, as an individual token of his apprecia- tion of the doctor's kindness. Columbus was passed through just at noon, as the luncheon was announced. After lunch the train appeared to be making- such good time that Billy Henderson and some others in the smoker amused themselves by timing it from mile post to mile post with their stop- watches. For a long distance we ran more than a mile a minute, in some instances as low as fifty-three seconds. Dennison was the place of a short stop at 2.15 P. M. Ten minutes later we passed through a dry oil field. Hundreds of idle derricks dotted both hills and valleys, some of them quite new and sound, and others that had fallen into decay. A little later a succession of tunnels was encoun- tered, so close together, that the lights were kept lit for some time. We ran into the station at Pittsburg at 4.10 P. M. and were booked for a stop of three hours. Everybody went out for a look at Pittsburg, and most of the party took trolleys as the best medium for a sight of the city. It was after 5 P. M. now, apparently closing time for the business houses down town, and the streets were full of hurrying throngs, pushing homeward. Some of the party went for a final shot at the stores, among them being Mclntyre and Allen, who sought a final plenishing for the commissary and remembrances for our Pullman conductors and Tourist Agent McCoy. The train hands had been taken care of by the committee during the afternoon. All tipping had been interdicted during the trip by the committee, and to-day porters, waiters, cooks and Charley vStump received their gratuities in a lump sum, which made them all feel good. Harry Heist also left us at this point, having business to attend to in the morning. Seven o'clock found every one else back at the station ready to begin the final run for home. Here some of vs were treated to another and quite a pleasant surprise by fmding our old friend Brooks, who had been conductor of our dining car on our other California cruise twelve years ago. He seemed as much pleased as ourselves to meet so many of his old friends and make some new acquaintances. He was now in charge of the station din- ing-room, and looked pretty much as of yore, except that he had grown stouter. He had also taken our advice of twelve years ago and got married. At 7.10 P. M. the train pulled out of the station for Philadelphia, running as first section of the regular train at that hour. At the same time the first call for the last dinner sounded. It was a fine wind-up to the meals of the trip and was, as the menu indicated, given in honor of Sir Knight C. P. Allen and Mrs. Allen, the Chair- man of the Committee of Ways and Means and the President of Mary Auxiliary Association. Under their pictures on the obverse of the menu was the motto "Pleasant Memories" and in the lower corner the words, Pilgrimage of Mary Commandery No. 36, K. T., to San Francisco, August 22-September 22, 1904. On the reverse side was the menu, as follows : 186 En Route Home from Triennial Conclave at San Francisco, Cal., 1904 DINNER TO SIR KNIGHT C. P. ALLEN AND MRS. C. P. ALLEN SOUPS Consomme Stewart Chicken Gumbo a la Brehm FISH Baked Flying Fish Caught at Catalina by Mclntyre Mary's Lamb — Filer Sauce Stuffed Ostrich a la Maneely ENTREES Fritters a la Bair VEGETABLES Kessler's Schuetzen Potatoes Hinckle's Oranges Plain Bread SALAD Harry Heist Judd's Bread Brown Bread Cake Cheese Coffee DESSERT Anna Price Ice Cream Fresh Fruit Marmalade Bent's Water Crackers Cocoa Tea Home, Sweet Home — "Gregory" Dining Car Coronado September 21 1904 188 After dinner the sleepers were the scenes of many farewell gatherings. In Car A a full house held a thanksgiving service, under the leadership of Doc. Shriner, for the completion of our pilgrimage without accident of any kind. Gregory led the singing portion of the services and all the pilgrims joined in with a will. At 9.30 P. M. we stopped at Johnstown where the party suffered another diminu- tion by the departure of Mr. and Mrs. Crist who resided at that place. It took them quite a long time to get around and say good-bye. At 9.45 P. M. we passed long lines of coke ovens which lit up the sky with their red glare. It was a perfectly beautiful moon- light night and all remained up to have another good view of the Horseshoe Bend. As we drew near to the famous curve the lights in the train were turned low and the train slowed up to give us as effectual a view of the moonlit scene as possible. It was passed in practical silence, so much did the beauty of the whole view affect the feelings of the lookers-on. At Altoona at 10.30 P. M. a short stop was made, but little time was spent outside the train, as the weather hacl got extremely cold. There was one of the Pennsylvania trains for the World's Fair just leaving Altoona. No sleepers were on the train, but everybody had disposed of themselves in the chair cars in efforts to sleep and many queer postures were the result. All meetings were adjourned to the smoker for comfort and extra blankets were ordered for the berths. Many of the pilgrims bade one another good-bye before parting for the night, as some had determined to start for home as soon as we reached Broad Street Station. They promised to have a first reunion at the Auxiliary meeting on Wednesday night next and another on Field Day, October ist, 1904. In the thirty-one days that we had spent together, we had practically become one large family with all the family wants cared for by other people, nothing but good fellow- ship had marked the entire Pilgrimage of the 1904 Frisco Club of Mary Commandery and it was no wonder that all regretted the end- ing of a memorable trip. In the Club car, as it was generally called, farewell songs were sung until a very late hour, and when the final toast was given the refrigerators were closed down and locked for the last time. The trip was then officially at an end and all hands repaired to their berths for the night. Thursday, September 22, 1 904 OME AGAIN" was the cry that awakened a number of the pilgrims as the train ran into Broad Street Station at 4.30 this morning-. It had been suggested that we have some heat turned into the cars last night, but it was thought that it would make it hot and stufify for sleeping. This morning we were doubtful about the pro- priety of refusing, as the heat would have been very welcome. It was not only cool for dressing in the cars, but actually cold. Double blankets had hardly been sufficient in the night and overcoats were hastily donned this morning. Some of the party had got off at Thirty-second street as we came in and others departed as soon as we struck ihe station. Others were more leisurely in their departure, getting up about 6 A. M. and taking breakfast in the station restaurant. Quite a number of friends and relatives called at an early hour to see some of the party, but were even then too late in some instances. The baggage and commissary cars were unloaded at an early hour and their contents taken downstairs. The Committee stripped the side badges off with the aid of some of the waiters who were on deck, but had to wait until 7 A. M. for a wagon to take the Com- mandery property over to the Masonic Temple. Shortly after that hour not one of the pilgrims was to be found about the station. Thus came to an end a memorable tour of nearly nine thousand miles by the representatives of Mary Commandery No. 36, K. T. of Pa., which added one more star to the already lustrous crown of that body. * 190 Roster of the Frisco Club of 1904 Mr. David W. Stewart, Philadelphia. Mrs. David W. Stewart, Philadelphia. Miss Eleanor F. Stewart, Philadelphia. Mr. William H. Brehm, Philadelphia. Miss Elizabeth C. Brehm, Philadelphia. Mr. Charles S. Bair, Philadelphia. Mrs. Charles S. Bair, Philadelphia. Mr. Clifford P. Allen, Philadelphia. Mrs. Clifford P. Allen, Philadelphia. Mr. William McIntyre, Philadelphia. Mrs. William McIntyre, Philadelphia. Mr. George Kessler, Philadelphia. Mrs. George Kessler, Philadelphia. Mr. Harry H. Heist, Philadelphia. ■ Miss Ada M. Heist, Philadelphia. Mr. Alfred K. Gregory, Philadelphia. Mrs. Alfred K. Gregory, Philadelphia. Mr. George Eiler, Jr., Philadelphia. Mrs. George Eiler, Jr., Philadelphia. Mr. Henry Q. Hinckle, Philadelphia. Mrs. Henry Q. Hinckle, Philadelphia. Master Harry Hinckle, Philadelphia. Mr. Charles W. Miller, Philadelphia. Mrs. Charles W. Miller, Philadelphia. Mr. James W. Baird, Philadelphia. Mrs. James W. Baird, Philadelphia. Mr. William Henderson, Philadelphia. Mrs. William Henderson. Philadelphia. Mr. Lewis E. Herring, Philadelphia. Mrs. Lewis E. Herring, Philadelphia. Mr. John K. Keen, Philadelphia. Mrs. John K. Keen, Philadelphia. Mr. J. E. M. Keller, Philadelphia. Mrs. J. E. M. Keller, Philadelphia. Mr. William H. Maneely, Philadelphia. Mrs. William H. Maneely, Philadelphia. Mr, Lewis T. Matlack, Philadelphia. Mrs. Lewis T. Matlack, Philadelphia. 191 Mr. John Musselman, Philadelphia. Mrs. John Musselman, Philadelphia. Miss Euzabeth Musselman, Philadelphia. Mr. Oliver C. Price, Philadelphia. Mrs. Oliver C. Price, Philadelphia. Miss Anna Price, Philadelphia. Mr. William I. Ray, Philadelphia. Mrs. William I. Ray, Philadelphia. Mr. Charles P. Reese, Philadelphia. Mrs. Charles P. Reese, Philadelphia. Mr. Harry D. Reese, Philadelphia. Mrs. Harry D. Reese, Philadelphia. Master Frank Reese, Philadelphia. Mr. Lewis C. Schuehler, Philadelphia. Mrs. Lewis C. Schuehler, Philadelphia. Mr. H. Wilson Sheibley, Philadelphia. Mr. H. Wilson Sheibley, Philadelphia. Mr. George W. Simpson, Philadelphia. Mrs. George W. Simpson, Philadelphia. P. Frailey Wells, M. D., Philadelphia. Mrs. p. Frailey Wells, Philadelphia. Thomas Shriner, M. D., Philadelphia. Miss Bessie Shriner, Philadelphia. Harvey M. Righter, M. D., Philadelphia. Mrs. Thomas Holt, Philadelphia. Miss Mary A. McCune, Philadelphia. Miss Martha Milligan, Philadelphia. Miss Elizabeth Patterson, Philadelphia. Miss Julia Robinson, Philadelphia. Mrs. John T. Schmidt, Philadelphia. Mrs. Elizabeth Seary, Philadelphia. Mr. Jacob Haines, Philadelphia. Mr. Ervin T. Hope, Philadelphia. Mr. Charles C. Judd, Philadelphia. Mr. George M. Laudenslager, Philadelphia. Mr. Charles McNamee, Philadelphia. Mr. William W. Matos, Philadelphia. Mr. William Patterson, Philadelphia. Mr. Louis H. Petzoldt, Philadelphia. Mr. Theodore F. Lines, Brooklyn, N. Y. Mrs. Theodore F. Links, Brooklyn, N. Y. Mr. John B.Case, Flemington, N. J. Mrs. John B. Case, Flemington, N. J. Mr. William A. Crist, Johnstown, Pa. Mrs. William A. Crist, Johnstown, Pa. Mr. John F. Bowker, Conshohocken, Pa. Mrs. John F. Bowker, Conshohocken, Pa. 192