^ '^ ,,\. .»> -•- .v> V o ^ ^ r> / y ^ "* o, <.° r) C; ■o. 0© v* v * .0° c o, 1 < f <, X "* \ A >s/hv JAMAICA: ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. BY JAMES M. PHILLIPPO, OF SPANISH TOWN, JAMAICA, TWENTY YEARS A BAPTIST MISSIONARY IN THAT ISLAND. PHILADELPHIA: JAMES M. CAMPBELL & CO., 98 CHESTNUT STREET. SAXTON & MILES, 205 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. 1843. C. SHERMAN, PRINTER 19 St. James Street. - 1 P K E F A C E. The author of the following pages, having been incapacitated for more active labours by protracted personal affliction, formed the resolution of employing the leisure which was afforded him in writing a work on Jamaica, which he ventures to hope will in some measure supply a desideratum long felt and acknov/ledged by the conductors and supporters of our various missionary societies. None but. the invalided missionary knows the bitterness of those feelings which fill the heart, when compelled by sickness to leave behind him his scene of arduous but happy toil, and to revisit his native shores under circumstances which preclude the possibility of engaging in active exertion for the promotion of that cause to which he has consecrated his life. In these feelings, which not all the sympathy and kindness of friends can wholly remove, the writer has largely shared. But should it be found that the present effort of his pen has in some measure supplied that " lack of service" which he hoped to have otherwise rendered, not only will the severity of the trial be greatly alleviated, but throughout his future days it will prove a source of high and joyous satisfaction. Though the manner in which he has accomplished his object will of course be variously estimated, he can most conscientiously affirm, that in all his statements he has at least endeavoured to be scrupulously correct, and to give a faithful representa- tion of Jamaica as it was, and Jamaica as it is. Having been a resident on the island since the year 1823, he has had extended opportunities of acquainting himself with it. And though, with regard to its past history, and present commercial condition, as well as some other particulars, he has been compelled to avail himself of the labours of the historian, yet the greater portion is the result of his own observation and expe- rience. He cannot but indulge the hope that the facts narrated, illustrative of the fervent piety, growing intelligence, and rapidly improving temporal circumstances of those who but a few years since not only tasted the " wormwood and the gall" of slavery, but who, with regard to their spiritual condition, were " sitting in darkness and in the shadow of death," will strengthen the hands and encourage the hearts of those Christian philanthropists to whose benevolent and unceasing efforts the mighty change is, under God, to be attributed. Nor does he feel willing to repress the delightful anticipation, that by these pages feelings may be awakened which shall ultimately contribute to hasten the arrival of the period when not only shall the blight- ing curse of slavery pass away from every land, but " when the knowledge of the Lord shall cover the earth, as the waters cover the sea." It may possibly be thought by some that too many anecdotes have been introduced, as well as too liberal a use made of the peculiarities of the negro dialect. If any apo- logy is required, the author begs to state that he has been governed in this particular not so much by his own predilections and tastes as by the advice of valued friends, who judged that such a method of illustrating the various topics to which attention is directed would be more likely than any other to interest and benefit a large class of his readers — an object at which he considered himself bound to aim. It will not escape observation that prominence has been given to the moral and re- ligious condition of the black and coloured population, and to the encouraging results of missionary efforts among them. To preserve the fidelity of an historical record, the author has necessarily reverted to circumstances of a painful as well as a pleasing character ; and if in so doing he has reflected upon what he regards as existing evils, it has been from a consciousness of vi PREFACE. duty, as it is by such representations that manners and customs are reformed. Most truly can he affirm that he cherishes no improper feeling towards the higher classes of the inhabitants of Jamaica ; on the contrary, it is the most sincere desire of his heart that her governors, senators, judges, and magistrates may be men eminent for piety and equity — that the higher classes of her population, as well as her peasantry, may be truly good, industrious, and happy — that she, as a country, may excel in all that is great, and noble, and distinguished — that she may ever remain connected with Britain, not only politically, but by ties of the warmest affection and holiest sympathies, cemented by the most sacred bonds that can hold society together. As a matter of necessity, the writer is more intimately acquainted with the progress of his own denomination than with that of any other, and consequently has given to it a more full and circumstantial account. Had it been practicable, it would have afford- ed him the sincerest pleasure to have embodied in his work a comprehensive statement of the successes and encouragements of those honoured brethren of other denominations whose labours have been signally owned and blessed. It is a deficiency which he sin- cerely regrets. But having left the island without any intention of becoming an author, and, perhaps, with a too confident expectation of being engaged in more active service during his sojourn in his native land, he did not avail himself of those sources of in- formation which would have been open to him, had he formed the resolution of writing at an earlier period ; and since thus engaged he has been prevented by a variety of cir- cumstances from obtaining that correct statistical information which was requisite to enable him to fulfil his first intention. To these causes alone is the omission to be attributed. Far from him be that attachment to a party which would lead him to re- gard with feelings of jealousy or indifference the labours of those whom, though under another name, he regards as brethren, and honours as the servants of Christ. He can truly say, " Grace be with all them that love our Lord Jesus Christ in sincerity ;" and ardently does he long for the arrival of the day which is destined to witness that delight- ful union of soul and effort which constituted the burden of his prayer who is "head over all things to the church." " That they all may be one, as thou, Father, art in me, and I in thee, that they also may be one in us; that the world may believe that thou hast sent me."* ■ Proposals for the establishment of a college on liberal and comprehensive principles, but designed especially for the education of the descendants of Africa in the higher branches of learning and science, will be found as an appendix, to which the particular attention of the reader is invited. The volume being already increased far beyond its originally intended size, in addi- tion to the impossibility of obtaining all the statistics necessary for the purpose, the author has not added the sketch of missionary stations announced in the prospectus. The omission, however, he flatters himself will not be regarded as important, inasmuch as it may easily be supplied by individual reference to the publications of each Society. As a Christian missionary, whose life has been spent, not in learned seclusion, but in the duties and incessant labours of his office, the author makes no pretensions to literary excellence. His aim has been to produce a work which might be interesting and use- ful, even without those embellishments of diction which, though ever pleasing, are not always necessary. As it is, he commends his volume to the attention of the churches and the blessing of Almighty God, as an humble contribution to the glory of Him in whose work he desires " to spend and be spent," and who, in the days of his flesh, graciously condescended to accept the services of her who " did what sie could." London, September, 1843. * John, xvii. 21. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. CHRISTIANITY. Its nature — Adaptation to the wants and circumstan- ces of the World — Its designs — Its effects — The future glory of the Church — Particular instrumen- tality to be employed — Former neglect of the Church — Subsequent activity — First Missionary Society — Difficulties and Discouragements — Future and increasing Success 9 CHAPTER II. SKETCH OF THE ISLAND. Civil History and Geographical Situation — Discovery — Settlement by the Spaniards — Conquest by the British — Subsequent History 11 CHAPTER HI. PHYSICAL ASPECTS OF THE COUNTRY. Scenery — Mou ntains — Ri v era — Springs — Cascades — Harbours 20 CHAPTER IV. VEGETABLE AND ANIMAL PRODUCTIONS. Sugar-cane, Coffee, Cocoa, Pimento, Cotton — Indigo, Drugs, Corn, Grasses — Garden Vegetables — Fruit, Flowers, Trees — Animals: Wild, Domestic — Birds : Wild Fowl, Domestic — Fish — Reptiles — Insects 24 CHAPTER V. DIVISIONS, ETC. Counties — Parishes — Towns — Villages — Houses ; exterior appearance and interior arrangement — Roads — Geology — Mineralogy — Soil — Climate — Seasons — Hurricanes — Earthquakes - - 30 CHAPTER VI. POPULATION, ETC. Census of the different Parishes, Stock, Land in Cul- tivation, Agriculture, Horticulture — Improvements: Implements, Machinery — Present defective State of Husbandry — Thoughts on Immigration - 37 CHAPTER VII. GOVERNMENT. Council, House of Assembly, Courts of Law, Laws, Public Offices — Ecclesiastical Establishments — IN aval and Military ditto — Taxes, Revenue 43 CHAPTER VIII. COMMERCE. Shipping; Imports and Exports — Monetary System : Coins, Amount of Property, Aggregate Value of Property 47 CHAPTER IX. WHITE INHABITANTS. Their Origin, Settlement, Trades and Professions, Do- mestic Habits, Dress — Social Dispositions and Af- fections — Manners and Customs — Education, Mo- rals, Religion — General Improvement - 51 CHAPTER X. PEOPLE OF COLOUR AND FREE BLACKS. Former condition— Causes of difference of Com- plexion and Circumstances — Political State — Pro- scription from Society of White Inhabitants— Low State of Morals— Removal of Disabilities— Rapid Advancement in civilization and the Social Scale- Present Condition 59 CHAPTER XI. Sect. 1. Political Condition of the Black Popu- lation. — Origin of the Slave Trade — Its Atrocities — Slaves, when first brought to Jamaica, and by whom— Dreadful Nature and Consequences of Sla- very as it existed in Jamaica 63 Sect. II. Abolition of the Slave Trade. — Origin of the African Institution — Efforts for ameliorating the Condition of the Slaves — Conduct of the Jamaica House of Assembly — Insurrection or Disturbance in 1832 and 1833 — Its real Causes — Destruction of Mission Property— Wanton and awful Sacrifice of Negro Life by the Whites — Imprisonment and Trial of Missionaries — Their triumphant Acquit- tal 66 Sect. III. The Apprenticeship System. — Its Im- policy, Injustice, and Cruelty— Inefficiency as a Preparative to Freedom — Special Magistrates — Excited and unsettled State of the Black Popula- tion as the Result of the Operation of this System — Representation of the State of Things by Mis- sionaries—Messrs. Sturge, Harvey, and others 68 Sect. IV. Total Emancipation. — Manner in which it was celebrated — Conduct of the Newly-Emanci- pated — Conduct of the Planters— Subsequent Dif- ferences — Establishment of New Villages— Resto- ration to Harmony and Peace — General Prosperity and Happiness --.... 70 CHAPTER XII. intellectual character of the black people under slavery. Ignorance of Arts and Sciences — Of Reading, Arith- metic, Mechanical Arts, Civil Polity — Alleged De- ficiency of Mental Capacity — Establishment and Operation of Schools — The Negro under Cultiva- tion and Freedom — Notions of his Natural Inferi- ority disproved — Proposal for the Establishment of a College — The great Importance and Advantages of such an Institution — Decline of Schools — Appeal for these objects to the British Public 75 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIII. SOCIAL CONDITION. Negro Villages in Time of Slavery — Houses — Dress of Slaves — Personal and Domestic Habits — Licen- tiousness — Polygamy — Marriage — Treatment of Females — Indolence — Improvement in all these Respects — Opening of a New Township under Freedom — Number of new Settlements established — Growing Comfort and Prosperity of the Country — Evidences of these results 84 CHAPTER XIV. MORAL STATE AND ASPECTS OF SOCIETY. Different Tribes of Africans— Peculiar Characteris- tics of each — Immoral Tendency of their Amuse- ments — Funerals — Superstitions — Characteristic Vices — Contrast presented by the present State of Things — Description of a Funeral as now con- ducted — Causes of the late partial Revival of Obe- ism and Myalism— Decrease of Crime - 92 CHAPTER XV. RELIGIOUS STATE, Sect. I. — Awful Destitution of Religion in the Island during the first Century of its Occupation by the British — Ignorance of the Black People — Idolatry — Superstition — Subsequent corrupted Christianity — Influence of Ignorant and Superstitious Teachers — Desecration of the Sabbath — Paucity of Places of Religious Worship; of Hearers — Clergy — Their unfavourable Opinion expressed to Parliament as to the Instruction and Conversion of the Slaves — Opinions of Infidel Philosophers - - 102 Sect. II. — Arrival of Missionaries — Opposition expe- rienced — Subsequent Success — Abolition of Sunday Markets — Improved Observance of the Sabbath — Number of regular Places of Worship in 1843 — Number of Missionaries — Great Extension of Re- ligion — Village Chapels — Attendance at Places of Worship— Average Size of the largest Congrega- tions — Number of Missionaries of all denomina- tions — Number of Native Assistants - - 106 Sect. Ill — Number of Members in communion with each of the Churches and Denominations of Chris- tians, and aggregate of Inquirers, &c, connected with each Denomination — Size of individual Churches — Manner of admitting Members — Wes- leyans, Baptists — Number added to Baptist Churches at one time ; in one year — Total Number added to Baptist and Wesleyan Churches during the last twenty years - 110 CHAPTER XVI. religious state — continued. Sect. I. — Presumptive Evidences of the actual Piety of Jamaica Churches — Character of the Missiona- ries — Nature and Extent of Scriptural Knowledge possessed by Candidates for Church-fellowship — By Members in general — Manner of Admitting Mem- bers — Great Christian Principle and Feeling mani- fested by them - - . - - - 115 Sect. II. — Description of Inquirers and Catechumens — Nature and Objects of their Connexion with the different Denominations — Usual Term of Probation among Baptists for Church-fellowship — Average Number of Exclusions — Intimate Knowledge pos- sessed by Ministers of the State of their Churches — Discipline, Faithfulness, and Impartiality of its Administration — Christian Consistency of Members — Testimonies — Investigation of Cases of alleged Delinquency — Church Meetings — Members Know- ledge of Scriptural Discipline — Distinguished Pre- valence of a Spirit of Prayer — Piety and Fervour of Social Exercises 122 Sect. III. — Sacrifices made by Members, of Time, Comfort, Property, and Freedom — Persecution — Martyrdom — Spirit exemplified under these cir- cumstances 129 Sect. IV. — Love of Converts towards each other — How displayed — Charity in the Treatment of Of- fences — Attention to Poor and Afflicted — Mutual esteem— Love for the Service of God's House — Attendance on the Means of Grace — Regard for She Interests of Zion generally — Attachment to their Ministers — Astonishing changes in Individual Characters - - - - - - - 136 Sect. V. — Zeal of Jamaica Christians — Their Libe" rality — Their great Personal and Individual Exer- tions — Class and Ticket System — Its Operation in Furtherance of the Gospel — Great Self-devotion of many of the Members of the Churches — Astonish- ing Effects produced by their Individual Labours 143 Sect. VI. — Experience and Conduct of Members in general in seasons of calamity — On Beds of Sick- ness and Death — Their anxious Concern for the Welfare of the Churches to which they belong, and for the general Interests of Religion — Numerous Instances of Happy and Triumphant Deaths of Adults and Sunday-school Children - - 148 CHAPTER XVII. principal instrumental causes to which these great results are to be attributed. Abolition of the Slave Trade — Effects of the African Institution — Of Anti-slavery and Agency Societies — Establishment and operation of Schools — Circu- lation of Bibles and Tracts — Moral Influence ex- erted by Missionaries — Their efforts for the Im- provement of the temporal condition of the People — Insurrection or disturbances in 1832 and 1833 — Establishment and Operation of Schools — Peculiar System of Instrumentality employed by the larger Churches — Spirit of Prayer possessed by the People. Chiefly by the preaching of the Gospel, accompanied by the influence of the Holy Spirit - - 153 CHAPTER XVIII. increased claim of the missionary societies, es- pecially on the sympathies and benevolence OF the christian world. Magnitude of the objects — Past Success — Condition of Africa, St. Domingo, and other neighbouring Islands, South America — Increased facilities which these fields of labour afford — Sympathies mani- fested by the Churches in Jamaica — Demand for these objects on the Christian Public — Sinfulness of neutrality in such a cause — Motives — Way in which this Cause is to be especially promoted 163 Appendix 174 LIST OF ENGRAVINGS. Heathen Practice at Funerals, - Frontispiece- Cocoa, or Chocolate-tree, 26 Negro cutting Sugar-cane, 39 Agricultural Implements, 40 Planter and Negro-Driver, .... 51 Mulatto and Black Female of the Upper Classes, 62 Female JNegro Peasant in her Sunday and Work- ing Dress, 89 JAMAICA: ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. CHAPTER I. CHRISTIANITY. Its nature — Adaptation to the wants and circumstan- ces of the World — Its designs — Its effects — The future glory of the Church — Particular instrumen- tality to be employed — Former neglect of the Church — Subsequent activity — First Missionary Society — Difficulties and Discouragements — Future and increasing Success. Christianity is a system of the most pure and exalted philanthropy. The field which it is designed to occupy " is the world," and its object the salvation of the whole human race, without any distinction of country, condition, or character. Re- velation looks with' the same benign aspect on the sun-burnt negro as on the inhabit- ant of a more temperate clime — to the bond as to the free — to the savage as to the phi- losopher ; all are alike the offspring of the same common parent, involved in the con- sequences of the same apostacy, heirs of the same immortal destiny, and alike ca- pable of being restored to the happiness and prerogatives of their exalted nature. " God has made of one blood all the na- tions of the earth." " Darkness has cover- ed the earth, and gross darkness the peo- ple." And in that great day, when the purposes of God shall have received their full accomplishment, " a multitude which no man can number, out of every kindred, and nation, and people, and tongue," shall join in the eternal jubilee of the redeemed from amongst men. " They shall come from the east and from the west, from the north and from the south, and shall sit down with Abraham, and with Isaac, and Jacob in the kingdom of God." But, as there is no other name given under hea- a ven whereby men can be saved, but Jesus Christ, it is evident that the gospel must be universally diffused, and that " all nations" must be " subdued to the obedience of faith." And to this glorious event both promise and prophecy lead our expecta- tions. " I saw," says Daniel, " in the night visions, and behold one like the Son of man came in the clouds of Heaven and came to the Ancient of days, and they brought him near before him. And there was given him dominion, and glory, and a kingdom, that all people, nations, and lan- guages should serve him ; his dominion is an everlasting dominion which shall not pass away, and his kingdom that which shall not be destroyed."* Thus there is to be a visible and territo- rial, if not an actual, subjugation of the whole world to the power and rule of the Redeemer. Thrice happy and glorious period ! then the reign of darkness is to end and innocence and peace are to be en- throned. Innocence and peace, those bless- ed emblems of millennial happiness and glory. So will a new creation arise as from the ruins of the old, when the various ranks of being, no longer separated, shall form one beautiful chain of happy intercourse. "The wolf also shall dwell with the lamb, and the leopard shall lie down with the kid, and the calf and the young lion and the fatling together, and a little child shall lead them. And the cow and the bear shall feed, their young ones shall lie down toge- ther, and the lion shall eat straw like the ox, and the sucking child shall play on the hole of the asp, and the weaned child shall put his hand on the cockatrice' den. They * Dan. vii. 13, 14. 10 JAMAICA; shall not hurt nor destroy in all my holy mountain ; for the earth shall be full of the knowledge of the Lord as the waters cover the sea."* This representation of the future state of the world, it may be said, is exceedingly delightful ; but how is such a mighty revo- lution to be effected? It is to be effected by the Gospel, accompanied by the Al- mighty power of the Holy Spirit. " But how can they believe in him of whom they have not heard? and how can they hear without a preacher? and how can they preach except they be sent?" Human in- strumentality is necessary in the order of means for the moral renovation of the world. The obligations under which all real Christians are laid should be felt, ac- knowledged, and, to the best of their abi- lity, discharged ; for they come to them not simply as duties, but as commands enforc- ed by the example, and enjoined by the authority, of Christ. " Go ye into all the world and preach the gospel to every crea- ture, "j" Like the apostles, missionaries in every succeeding age were to be " sent unto the Gentiles to open their eyes, and to turn them from darkness unto light, that they might receive forgiveness of sins and inheritance among them which are sancti- fied through faith which is in Christ."^: It is deeply to be regretted that it was not until a comparatively recent period that Christians in general seemed aware of their duty towards the heathen world ; and thus ages were suffered to pass away, dur- ing which it might be said by the eight hundred millions of our race who every thirty years pass into eternity as they cast their eye of distraction up to the frowning judge, " No man cared for my soul." No sooner, however, did the Church awake from her slumbers than she clearly perceived her obligation : then she buckled on her armour, and was resolved, in the strength of the Lord, to take possession of the rich inheritance bequeathed to her. Hence, the formation of Missionary, Bible, Scriptural Education, and Sunday School Societies, and others of a similar nature, at once the ornament and glory of our land. Thus began a new era in the history of the Church of Christ. Such, indeed, on the formation of the first Missionary Society (in modern times) was the novelty of its cha- * Isaiah xi. 6—9. t Mark xvi. 15. $ Acts xxvi. 18. racter, so mysterious and powerful the dif- ficulties against which it had to contend, and such the vastness and grandeur of its aim, that an interest was associated with it unparalleled in any age since that of the Apostles. The object contemplated, in- deed, was regarded as a mighty and glori- ous, yet, in some respects, a dubious en- terprise, requiring deep reflection in the plan, and no small degree of wisdom, cou- rage, perseverance, self-denial, and simple yet firm dependence upon God in the exe- cution. In this light it was viewed by the agents to whom it was at first entrusted. " Our undertaking to India," says Mr'. Ful- ler, " appeared to me, at its commence- ment, to resemble that of a few men who stood deliberating about the importance and necessity of penetrating info a deep mine which had never before been explored. We had no one to guide us, and while we were thus deliberating, Carey said, as it were, ' Well, I will go down if you will hold the ropes ;' but before he went down he, as it seemed to me, took an oath from each of us, that while we lived we would never let go the ropes." Nor were circumstances more favour- able after the arrival of the first mission- aries in Bengal. " Everywhere," says Mr. Ward, " we were advised to go back. Even one or two good men thought the at- tempt utterly impracticable. India, in short, has been long considered an impregnable fortress defended by the gods. Many a Christian soldier, it has been said, may be slain in the entrenchments, but the fort will never be taken." Under such circumstances did the first missionaries enter the field. They laboured long and hard, and, as they had anticipated, against obstacles calculated to appal the stoutest heart ; but, having thus counted the cost, and recognising the principle that no appearances however adverse alter- ed their obligation, they still persevered, " trusting in God." The promised blessing was at length be- stowed. Barrier after barrier began to give way and disappear. This success produced a reaction upon the churches at home, and the heralds of salvation were successively multiplied. And now let us ask, what are the results of an enterprise, the operations of which were so doubtfully and almost in- auspiciously begun? It may suffice to say that the results have exceeded the calcula- ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 11 tions of the most sanguine of the friends of missions. Whole nations have given up their gods. One island after another of the great southern archipelago has renounc- ed its superstitions and assumed the Chris- tian name, whilst, among the habitations of cruelty in the West, there is kindled a light which the united opposition of earth and hell will never be able to extinguish. The cloud of moral darkness which has for ages hovered over the continent of In- dia has begun to retire — the spell of Brah- ma is dissolving — the chains of caste are falling ofF — the wheels of Juggernaut are scarce ensanguined — the horrid custom of self-immolation has disappeared, and the " sacred tide of Jordan mingles with the Ganges." From the borders of China extending along many of the shores of the eastern continent, and even to the interior of Afri- ca, has the light of life extended. In al- most every portion of the globe are church- es and schools rising up, the landmarks of missionary progress, forming a beautiful contrast to the surrounding barrenness and desolation — churches " built upon the foun- dation of apostles and prophets, Jesus Christ himself being the chief corner stone. " In almost every direction we are presented with increasingly bright- ening prospects. In some parts of the field God is not only with his servants, but it may emphatically be said that he has gone before them. The ground appears to be already ploughed up to their hands. They have nothing to do but to cast in the seed, and it immediately vegetates and brings forth an abundant harvest. All that seems wanted is increased liberality on the part of the Church to furnish more labour- ers to gather it in. To change the allu- sion, no sooner is an attack made upon the powers of darkness than a retreat is sound- ed, and all that seems required are rein- forcements of men and increased pecuni- ary supplies to occupy the ceded ground. Allusion is here made more especially to the island of Jamaica, of which, as con- nected with the work of God, the following pages, it is hoped, will furnish some inte- resting particulars. CHAPTER II. SKETCH OF THE ISLAND. Civi! History and Geographical Situation — Discovery — Settlement by the Spaniards — Conquest by the British — Subsequent History. The island of Jamaica is one of the clus- ter of islands called the West Indies, which extends from Florida, in North. America, to the mouth of the great river Oronooko, in South America. They are divided into windward and leeward, or the greater and lesser Antilles. Jamaica (or Xaymaca) is one of the latter group, and signifies, in the language of the aboriginal inhabitants, " a land abounding in springs." It is situated between the parallels of 17° 39' and 78° 34' north latitude, and between 76° 3' and 78° 34' west longitude ; 4000 miles southwest of England ; 90 miles west of St. Domingo ; and 435 miles north of Carthagena, on the South American con- tinent. It is nearly of an oval form, and is 180 miles long, and 60 in extreme breadth, containing about 4,080,000 acres of land, or 6400 square miles. Jamaica was discovered by Columbus on the 3rd of May, 1494, on his second voyage to the New World. He had previously visited Hispaniola and Cuba. When first discovered by the Spaniards, the island is said to have been densely populated by Indians, a race of men (unlike the Charibs — cannibals who inhabited some of the windward islands) benevolent and mild in their dispositions ; of great simplicity of manners; and by no means unskilled m some of the arts of civilized life. They were assimilated, indeed, in these respects, as well as in appearance and language, to the aborigines of the contiguous continent. Sailing a southwest course from the east end of Cuba, Columbus approached the north side of the island, and being defeated in endeavouring to effect a landing at Santa Maria* (now Port Maria), by the hostile demonstrations of the natives, he proceeded to another harbour, a little to the north- ward, which he called Ora Cabessa, and there, after encountering similar opposition, which he subdued by discharging several of his arbaletes, or pieces of cannon, among the assailants, he planted the royal standard of Spain. * So called after th.3 name of h < first ship. 12 JAMAICA The appearance of the strangers ; the re- port of their artillery; and above all, the slaughter they had witnessed, struck the Indians with astonishment rtnd awe. A negotiation was therefore effected, and the invaders were plentifully supplied with the various productions of the island, by an in- terchange of presents. Here the Spaniards remained for about ten days, and, disap- pointed in their expectation of finding pre- cious metals, they sailed again to Cuba. With the exception of a simple survey of the coast, which he commenced at Rio Bueno on the 22nd June, 1494, and which occupied him until the 20th of the ensuing August, nothing further was heard of Co- lumbus by the natives of Jamaica during a period of nine years. Fortunate had it been for these peaceful and comparatively happy islanders, as well as for the Spaniards themselves, had this been the termination of their mutual intercourse ; but other changes and calamities awaited them. Co- lumbus revisited the island on the 4th July, 1502, when, on his fourth voyage after having been compelled by stress of weather to shelter in the Isle of Pines, on the coast of Cuba, and after a disastrous expedition to Veraqua, or the island of St. Christopher, accompanied by his son Diego, and brother Bartholomew, encountering dreadful wea- ther, in which he lost two of his ships, he was driven to Maxaca, an Indian village on the southern coast of Cuba. Here he ef- fected a slight repair of his vessels, and putting again to sea, was driven by a vio- lent storm on an uninhabited part of the north coast of Jamaica, destitute both of water and provisions. To have remained in such a situation would have been a voluntary submission to all the horrors of famine. Although, therefore, his remain- ing vessels were in a foundering state, this intrepid mariner once more turned his shat- tered prows to the deep. The tradewind drove them in a westerly direction, and himself and crews being in great jeopardy of their lives, Columbus ran his vessels on the shore at St. Ann's Bay, called by him Santa Gloria, distinguished to the present time as Don Christopher's Cove. In this shallow bay, protected by a reef of rocks, and otherwise secured from the elements, the weather-beaten and exhausted mariners were afforded temporary security and re- pose. The natives treated them with the greatest kindness and hospitality, little sus- pecting the manner in which their generosity would be repaid. Meanwhile Columbus sought deliverance from his forlorn situation. With this view he despatched his secretary, Diego Mendez and Fieski, two of his most intrepid and faithful officers, in two boats, furnished with ten Indians and six Casti- lians, to Ovando, the Governor of His- paniola, 200 leagues distant, for assistance and supplies. Mendez at the same time was appointed by the admiral to proceed to the Court of Spain, with a memorial to the King. Ovando, to gratify his revenge on Columbus, with whom he was at enmity, instead of affording him the required relief, basely took advantage of the admiral's ca- lamities, by adding to them mockery and insult. A latent suspicion had long been lurking in the breasts of some of his com- panions, that they had incurred the dis- pleasure of the Government at home, and of the Viceroy of Hispaniola, on account of their fidelity to Columbus, and the late oc- currence tended to confirm that impression. A mutiny therefore ensued, instigated by two of his principal officers — the brothers De Porras. Various charges were brought against their veteran commander by the mutineers, as a pretext for their atrocities, and several times, when confined to his miserable cabin by acute disease, were at- tempts made upon his life, which were only fustrated by the skill and bravery of his brother Bartholomew. The mutineers were intent on making efforts to reach Hispaniola. For this pur- pose they seized ten canoes which Colum- bus had purchased from the Indians, with a view to the mutual escape of himself and crews, and manning them with Indians as rowers, whom they forcibly compelled to the task, they proceeded along the shore to the east end of the island — the spot to which they had previously accompanied Mendez and Fieski — when, after plunder- ing the coast, and committing other exces- ses, they stood out to sea. Their frail barks were unable to sustain the fury of the storm that arose, and to secure their own lives they sacrificed those of the In- dians, by throwing them overboard with the baggage. Driven back successively, and at length become desperate by their reverses, the base conspirators vented their diabolical passions on the hospitablelndians — their almost broken-hearted admiral, and his few faithful adherents. Among ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 13 the Indians they committed the greatest enormities, laying waste their provision- grounds, and destroying the lives of all who opposed the gratification of their passions, thereby subjecting themselves and all their unfortunate companions to the most fear- ful retaliation of their benefactors. The Indians, as apprehended, failed in their supplies, and famine began to stare the Spaniards in the face. It was at this pe- riod, and under these circumstances, that Columbus resorted to the expedient of se- curing a continuance of the obedience and friendship of the natives, by foretelling an eclipse of the moon.* Diego Columbus at length reduced the rebels to their allegiance, by an engage- ment in which many of them were slain. But the deliverance of the exiles from their now almost unendurable situation was at hand. In a month afterwards, 28th June, 1504, after the lapse of little more than a year, the vessels despatched from Santa Gloria to Hispaniola under the command of Mendez and Fieski returned, and the admi- ral, with the remnant of his diseased and half-famished crews, immediately departed, leaving the Indians once more in the peace- ful possession of their lovely isle. But the period of their repose was brief. In 1509, three years afterwards, Christo- pher Columbus died,")" and a still more bit- ter cup was prepared for them, the very * " Under the&e circumstances Columbus convened all the Caciques in the neighbourhood, that he might inform them of something which was of importance to their happiness, and essential to theirpreservation. These good creatures attended him ; and he, after complaining of their leaving him and his companions to perish by famine, addressed them in the following words, which he pronounced with peculiar emphasis, as if he had been inspired: — ' To punish you for your cruel conduct, the Great Spirit, whom 1 adore, is going to visit you with his most terrible judgments. This very evening you will observe the moon turn red; after which she will grow dark, and withhold her light from you. This will only be a prelude to your calamities, ifyou obstinately persist in refusing to give us food.' He had scarcely finished this speech, when his prophecy was accomplished. The natives were astonished ; and being easily induced to deeds of benevolence, they, upon a promise of better be- haviour by Columbus in behalf of his turbulent fol- lowers, and assurances of a speedy departure, promis- ed to supply them with whatever they required. He then told them, that heaven, moved with their repen- tance, was appeased, and that nature was now to re- sume her wonted course. They afterwards con- ducted themselves with greater circumspection ; and were, during the remainder of their stay, furnished with the necessary supplies of provision." t The body of Columbus is said to have been con- veyed to the monastery of the Carthusians, at Seville, where he was magnificently interred in the cathedral last dregs of which they were doomed to drain. Jamaica, with its inhabitants, was now given up by the court of Spain to the unrestrained tyranny of Alfonzo d'Ojeda and Diego Nicuissa, between whom it had divided the government of Darien. Dis- putes arose between these rival chieftains as to the division of the lands, and the human property thus placed at their dis- ' posal ; and the consequences of this un- limited power to the unoffending victims of their misrule are almost too dreadful to re- late. Their peaceful villages were every- where destroyed, and hundreds who es- caped the general and indiscriminate mas- sacre, which at length, for a time at least, satiated the thirst of its perpetrators for blood, were doomed to administer to their lust of avarice by interminable slavery in the mines of Mexico or Peru. In the midst of these disputes and remorseless cruelties Don Diego, the son of the Great Disco- verer, who was at that time governor of Hispaniola, having a prior claim to the viceroyalty of Jamaica, instituted proceed- ings against the crown of Castile, with a view to the recovery of his rights, and sent Don Juan d'Esquimel, with seventy men, to take possession of the island on his be- half. D'Esquimel reduced it at very little expense of life or property ; and, in further obedience to his instructions, commenced a colony, and founded the seat of govern- ment on the banks of a rivulet, near the ruins of the ancient Indian village Mayama, on the north side of the island. It was Santa Gloria, a spot hallowed in the affec- tions of Diego's heart on account of the shipwreck and sufferings of his father in 1503, and he named it Sevilla Nueva. His suit against the crown was decided in his favour by the Council of the Indies, and the designation Sevilla Nueva was an appropriate commemoration of that event. The infant colony both claimed and shared the sympathy and attention of its heredi- of that city, and a monument erected to his memory, on which is the following inscription: — A Castilia y a Leon Nuevo Mundo dio Colon. In English, To Castile and Leon Columbus gave a New World. Subsequently, it is said his body was carried from the above monastery to the city of Domingo, in Hispa- niola, and interred in the chancel of the cathedral there. 14 JAMAICA: tary Viceroy; and to promote its general interests, but especially those of a spiritual kind, his brother Ferdinand now arrived from Spain, and established a monastery. These preparations, as may be supposed, were viewed with no little jealousy by the band of Indians that had survived the fatal reign of D'Ojeda and Nicuissa, and they armed themselves in opposition. At length, in utter hopelessness of success, they gra- dually sank into the condition of slaves, the cruelties they had suffered having ex- tinguished almost every trace of their for- mer dispositions and character. " Oft the pensive muse Recalls, in tender thought, the mournful scene When the brave Incotel, from yonder rock, His last sad blessing to a weeping train Dying bequeathed. The hour (he said) arrives, By aucient sages to our sires foretold ; Fierce from the deep, with Heaven's own lightning armed, The pallid nation comes; blood marks their steps; Man's agonies their sport; and man their prey."* "San Domingo, then in all its glory, graced by the presence of royal blood and many of the nobility of Castile, and the seat of fashion in the New World, com- municated its luxuriance and taste to Se- villa Nueva (now called Sevilla d'Oro, from the gold brought thither by the natives); and a splendid city arose, rivalling in mag- nificence the towns of the mother country, but of which not a vestige remains, save * " The manner in which the remorseless Spaniards tortured their unoffending victims was worthy of the goodness of such a cause. They seized upon ihem by violence, distributed them like brutes into lots, and compelled them to dig in the mines, until death, their only refuge, put a period to their sufferings. It was also a frequent practice among them, as one of their own historians informs us (human nature shud- ders at the tale), to murder hundreds of these poor creatures, merely to keep their hands in use. They were eager in displaying an emulation, which of them could most dexterously strike off the head of a man at a blow, and wagers frequently depended on this horrid exercise. It is impossible for words to express the indignation and disgust excited by such merciless cruelty. If any of these unhappy Indians, goaded by their sufferings, and driven to despair, at- tempted resistance or flight, their unfeeling murderers hunted them down with dogs, who were fed on their flesh. Weakness of age, and helplessness of sex, were equally disregarded by these monsters. And yet they had the impudence to suppose themselves religious, and the favourites of heaven ! Some of the most zealous of these adorers of the Holy Virgin forced their unhappy captives into the water, and after administering to them the rites of baptism, cut their throats the next moment, to prevent their apos- tacy! Others made and kept a vow to hang or burn thirteen every morning, in honour of Christ and his twelve apostles! But let us turn from this scene of human depravity ; a scene the most remorseless and cruel ever displayed on the theatre of the world." the memory of the name, the cane-fields on the site of the former capital being still termed Seville."* The government of Don Juan d'Esqui- mel was considered mild and conciliating towards the natives; and in pursuance of his designs for the advancement of the colony, he encouraged the culture of cot- ton, and introduced the sugar-cane and the vine, together with European cattle, which, with propitious skies and a fruitful soil, was more abundantly compensative than all the treasures which, at such an awful sacrifice of life, his predecessors had wrung from the bowels of the earth. Unhappily both for the Indians and the colony the rule of Don d'Esquimel was short. He expired about the year 1519, at his own estate, on the south side of the island, situated in front of a beautiful bay called Sevilla d'Oro, or Esquimel, now Old Har- bour, where he had established a ship- building settlement, and was there inter- red. Under his mild and comparatively equitable government the colony had great- ly prospered. In the short space of ten years three vessels had been fitted out under his direction, manned by 270 seamen, with a view to other conquests, and two new towns were established as branches of Sevilla d'Oro ; Blewfields or Oristan, on the south; and Melilla or Martha Brae, near Falmouth, on the northern coast of the island. Esquimel was succeeded in the Government by an individual of a very different character and spirit, the cruel and avaricious Francis de Geray, a Span- iard who had rapidly advanced himself to wealth and imporlance as the partner of the celebrated Dias, the proprietor of the famed gold-mine of St. Christopher, in Hispaniola. In 1523, Sevilla d'Oro and the other settlements on the coast suffered greatly from a banditti of French privateers or flibustiers, allured by the prospect of spoil. Oristan and Manilla were successively razed to the ground ; and at length the capital itself yielded to the ravages of these lawless corsairs. A safer retreat became necessary than could be afforded by contiguity to the sea, and Diego finally fixed the site of the new settlement near the extremity of a fertile plain, on the south side of the island, which was water- Bridges. ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 15 ed by the clear streams of an impetuous river. It rapidly rose in estimation and importance, and was called by its founder St. Jago de la Vega, or St. Jago of the Plains, to distinguish it, as is supposed, from St. Jago de Cuba. Three years after this event Don Diego Columbus died, and, owing to several circumstances connected with his decease, the prosperity of the country declined, except in the immediate neighbourhood of the new capital, St. Jago de la Vega. Here, in sixteen years from its foundation, industry and wealth had been so stimulated by the security which its situation afforded, that it soon rivalled Sevilla d'Oro when in its greatest magnifi- cence, and gave the title of Marquis to the grandson of the Great Discoverer. On the first possession of the island by the Spaniards the aboriginal inhabitants were estimated at from 80,000, to 100,000 ; and, as an evidence of the atrocities they suffered at the hands of their merciless conquerors, they are represented by the historian Gage, writing in 1637, as having been, in the year 1558, entirely extermi- nated : Quid non mortalia pectora cogis, Auri sacra fames! Hence, owing to European wars and the predatory incursions of hordes of free- booters and privateers, the colony was sub- ject to various vicissitudes until 1596. Shortly before this period the effective strength of the settlers was augmented by the arrival of a considerable number of Portuguese, owing to a union of the Crowns of Spain and Portugal, by which the territorial right of the island was vest- ed in the royal house of Braganza. The trade of the colony was thus greatly in- creased, and chiefly consisted of ginger, tobacco, sugar, lard and hides, whilst the domestic animals, swine, horses, and horn- ed cattle, originally brought from Hispa- niola, had so multiplied as to overrun the island. The capital, thus again feeling the influence of increasing wealth, far ex- ceeded its former prosperity and magnifi- cence. Hitherto, from various causes, Jamaica had never attracted the invasion of a fo- reign European power ; but its fame for wealth and prosperity now became known to Sir Anthony Shirley, a British admiral, who, being at that time cruising in the neighbourhood, invaded it with a large fleet, and effected an easy conquest of it at Passage Fort. Plundering the capital and the most accessible parts of the country of its treasure, he left it for richer conquests. Thirty-nine years afterwards, during which, under the government of Don Ar- noldo de Sasi, the town rose to its highest state of prosperity, it was invaded in a si- milar manner by Colonel Jackson, who, at the head of 500 men, after a desperate en- gagement with the Spanish garrison there of very superior force, also effected his landing at Passage Fort, and committed the same excesses. The termination of the next twenty years, from whatever cause it might arise, saw the inhabitants of this flourishing co- lony enervated by sloth, and oppressed by poverty. The population of the whole island did not now exceed 1500 Spaniards and Portuguese, the same number of mu- lattoes and negro slaves, and eight families of the higher classes. The latter, called Hidalgos, possessed the entire island, which was divided into as many patos or districts between them. A new era in the history of the island approached. Owing to a succession of provocations and injuries on the part of Spain — as well, as is supposed, to re-esta- blish the maritime supremacy of England (now greatly enfeebled) by adding to her colonial possessions, and thus to establish an equality of right to the navigation of the American seas — Cromwell fitted out an expedition for the subjugation of Hispa- niola. The armament consisted of 6500 men, and was committed to the command of Admiral Penn and General Venables. Failing in their attempt on the capital of the Spanish settlements, for which they were afterwards committed to the Tower, they attacked Jamaica on the 3d of May, 1655, which capitulated after a trifling re- sistance. It thus became an appendage to the British Crown, after it had been in the possession of the Spaniards 146 years. From the terms of the negotiation and the delay that occurred in the ratification of the treaty, the conquerors were disappoint- ed in their expectations of booty. The inhabitants had conveyed away into the woods every thing valuable they possessed. Disease, famine and party feuds resulted from the excesses committed by the British army ; and these, added to the defenceless 16 JAMAICA : state of the island, led to renewed efforts on the part of Spain to regain her lost pos- session, but without success. For a time its new occupants revelled in luxury ; but, subsequently, dissipated by indolence and crime, and at length enfeebled by disease and poverty, they became but little supe- rior to the savage monsters they supplant- ed. Thus, among other evidences of their barbarity, Colonel D'Oyley sanctioned the introduction of blood-hounds into the coun- try, for " the hunting of the negroes," as it was savagely expressed in one of the public documents of the time.* Hitherto, from the conquest of the island by the English, it had been under the in- fluence of a military government. A civil administration was now to be formed, and Colonel Edward D'Oyley was elevated to the office of governor, which took, place in 1661. Jamaica now becamethe rendezvous of buccaneers, and the resort of piratical crusaders; a desperate band of adventurers composed of men from all the maritime powers of Europe. These marauders con- tinued their depredations until the year 1670, when peace was made with Spain. They intercepted the Spanish galleons in their transit with the precious metals to Europe, pillaged towns and villages, and multiplied the number of negro-slaves. The character of the white population at this time was deplorable — composed of disband- ed soldiers, Spanish refugees, hordes of pirates and buccaneers, convicts, and in- dented servants, and the dregs of the three kingdoms, who exhibited every kind of ex- cess, and perpetrated almost every degree of wickedness. In the feuds so rife in England between the Republican and Royalist parties the colonists participated with the utmost ran- cour. It must, however, be said, to the honour of Charles, on his Restoration, that he confirmed D'Oyley in the government, and removed the existing asperities by an impartial bestowment of some valuable im- munities. In September, 1662, Governor * The following orders, extracted from the records of the State Paper Office, will convey a curious pic- ture of the spirit and manners of that age : — " Aug. 14. An order signed Edward D'Oyley, for the distribution to the army of 1701 Bibles. " Aug. 26, 1659. Order issued this day unto Mr. Peter Pugh, Treasurer, to pay unto John Hoy the summe of Twenty Pounds sterling, out of the impost money, to pay for fifteene doggs, brought by him for the hunting of the negroes." D'Oyley was succeeded in the administra- tion of affairs by Lord Windsor, who was deputed to effect a beneficial alteration in the form of government. This nobleman appointed judges of quarter-session and a magistracy; established a militia ; divided the island into parishes, and granted patents of land ; investing it with a complete muni- cipal character. The first assembly was convened under authority of the King in Council in 1664, by Lieutenant-Governor Sir Charles Lyttleton. It consisted of thirty members and a speaker, who enact- ed laws which received the sanction of the King. Its sittings were divided between the seat of government and Port Royal, for the mutual convenience and benefit of the public. Under the administration of Sir Thomas Modyford, a wealthy planter from Barbadoes, a serious dispute arose between the Colonial Legislature and the Crown on the subject of taxation, and the parties by whom the supplies thus raised were to be controlled. In 1670 peace was proclaim- ed with Spain ; and it was found necessary for its preservation, as well as for other reasons, to discourage the marauding ex- peditions of the pirates already noticed, who, now in the height of their successes, infested the seas of the New World, and poured forth their ill-gotten treasures into Jamaica. The most notorious chieftain of these was Morgan, whose name is intimately connected with the history of the islands. He was born in 1635, and was a native of Wales, of the clan of the Morgans of Trede- gar; and, by his extraordinary exploits both by sea and land, was afterwards ele- vated to the dignity of Lieutenant-Gover- nor of Jamaica. At this period, although the island had been possessed by the British but fourteen years, and had been cradled amidst storms and difficulties almost incon- ceivable, it exhibited a degree of prosperity truly astonishing. The white population was 15,198; its effective sea and land forces, 5221 ; and negro-slaves, 9500. Of sugar, pimento, cocoa, indigo, and other properties, there was from 150 to 200. In the following year, 1671, on the accession of Sir Thomas Lynch, still more effective measures were employed for the extension of agriculture and commerce. Very im- portant regulations were also introduced into the laws for the better protection of property and life. ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 17 Morgan, the late pirate and buccaneer, raised to the honour of knighthood for his conquest of Panama, succeeded to the government. His administration was brief, and distinguished for little but an attempt to increase the cultivation of the north side of the island, and for quelling an insurrec- tion of the slaves. He is stated by some historians to have died at Port Royal, where he had resided for several years as a peaceful citizen ; and by others to have expired in England a miserable victim to the influence of the Spanish Court. Morgan was succeeded by Lord Vaug- han and the Earl of Carlisle; and it was under the administration of the former that the African Company was formed which legalized the Slave Trade. In 1688 the Duke of Albemarle arrived as governor, appointed by his patron James II. He rendered himself unpopular by his bigoted zeal in favour of Popery, and interrupted for a time the peace and prosperity of the country. Commerce, however, received under his administration a new stimulus by an extensive immigration of Jews; and Sir Hans Sloane, his Excellency's private secretary, increased the boundaries of na- tural history by adding to it his excellent collection of plants. In addition to the calamities experienced by the planters and inhabitants generally from the predatory incursions of the Ma- roons, now considerably augmented in number by the desertion of slaves from the lawless tyranny of their possessors, they were visited by a succession of calamities stil! more dreadful and desolating. Port Royal, long the rendezvous of the bucca- neers, the mart of the new world, and which had become proverbial both for its wealth and its wickedness, was swallowed up by an earthquake with 3000 of the in- habitants of the island. It occurred about midday on the 7th June, 1692. The sky, which a little time before was clear and serene, was suddenly overshadowed with partial darkness, exhibiting faint gleams of red and purple. The sea was calm. The Governor and Council were met in session. As on the day that Noah entered into the ark, the inhabitants were immersed in their various schemes of business and pleasure; the wharves were laden with the richest merchandise; the markets and stores dis- played the splendid treasures of Mexico and Peru ; and the streets were crowded with people. On a sudden a roar was heard in the distant mountains, which reverberat- ed through the valleys to the beach. The sea immediately rose, and in three minutes stood five fathoms over the houses of the devoted town. Nearly the whole city was deluged, while the spectacles of corpses, mangled by the concussion of the earth, with the shrieks and lamentations of the sufferers, were awful beyond expression. Although no air was in motion, the sea was agitated as by a tempest. Billows rose and fell with such violence that the vessels in the harbour broke from their moorings ; one of the vessels of war, the Swan frigate, was forced over the tops of the sunken houses, and, as if in mercy to the sufferers, afforded them a refuge from still impend- ing danger. Of the whole city, which a few minutes before consisted of 3000 houses, not more than 200 with the fort were left uninjured. The greater part of the wealth and property of the city was destroyed, and, what was more to be re- gretted, because irreparable, all the official papers and records of the island. The whole country felt the shock and shared the effects of the awful visitation. The current of rivers was intercepted, and new channels were formed ; hills were driven together with a crash surpassing thunder ; mountains were riven to pieces, and, fall- ing into the valleys beneath, involved the destruction of hundreds of inhabitants; whole settlements sunk into the bowels of the earth ; plantations were removed from their situation, and all the sugar-works were destroyed; in a word, the outline of everything was changed, and the whole surface of the island almost entirely sub- sided. The sunken houses of the city on a fine clear day are distinguishable beneath the surface of the ocean. Putrefying bodies, exposed in the suburbs of the towns and floating in the harbour, generated a noxious miasm, which swept off 3000 of the suf- ferers who yet remained. As a sad and lasting memorial of this awful calamity, Green Bay, on the opposite side of the har- bour, exhibits the tomb of Louis Caldy,* * The following is the epitaph copied from his tomb situated at a place called Green Bay, opposite the harbour of Port Royal, which the author has re- peatedly visited : — " Here lieth the body of Louis Caldy, Esq., a native of Montpelier, in France, which country he left on account of the Revocation. He was swallowed up by an earthquake which occurred at this place in 18 JAMAICA who was almost miraculously preserved from a watery grave in the midst of the catastrophe. Scarcely had the colonists recovered from the panic and distress into which they were thrown by the earthquake, than they were threatened by the calamities of war. -The French General, M. Ducasse, Governor of St. Domingo, invaded the island with a powerful armament. Fie committed the most wanton and aggra- vated cruelties, and thus added to the mi- series already entailed upon them by the elements of nature and the ravages of disease. He was finally routed by the bravery of the militia at Carlisle Bay, one of the south-side ports. For several years afterwards the colony experienced a suc- cession of favourable events. Port Royal rose again from its ruins, agriculture and commerce were re-established, and the ap- pearances of wealth and splendour revived. This period of peace and commercial pros- perity extended through almost a century, and was interrupted only by the party feuds that arose from the exactions of the parent state. In 1702 Port Royal was almost entirely destroyed by fire, occa- sioned by an explosion of gunpowder that was carelessly exposed to the action of the sun in the roofs of stores covered with a light resinous wood. Devastated in Au- gust, 1722, by a tremendous hurricane, and almost depopulated by an epidemic disease that immediately followed, the seat of commerce was finally transferred to Kingston, which began to be founded after the calamity of 1692. Under the mild and salutary administra- tion of the Duke of Portland, a bill passed the House of Assembly, and received the sanction of the Crown, that was regarded as the " Magna Charta" of Jamaica ; one of the effects of which was to annihilate the unhappy differences which had so long existed between the colonists and the go- vernment at home.* A succession of fa- vourable events followed the war with Spain; whilst the subjection of the Ma- roons, who had so long harassed the island, having been effected under Vice-Admiral 1692; but, by the great providence of God, was, by a second shock, flung into the sea, where he continued swimming until rescued by a boat, and lived 40 years afterwards." * The Revenue Bill, which granted to the colony the immunities of British laws. Vernon and Governor Trelawney, Jamaica attained unexampled prosperity, compris- ing in 1742, besides abundant wealth, a population of 14,000 whites and 100,000 slaves. In 1751 Admiral Knowles at- tempted to remove the seat of government to Kingston, but was finally compelled to abandon his purpose by the remonstrances and threats of the populace. Insecurity of life and property is the inevitable result of so unnatural and atrocious a system as that of slavery, and another insurrection of the slaves occurred, which threatened the destruction of the entire white popula- tion. It was speedily subdued, but the atrocities perpetrated in retaliation by the whites would excite a shudder of horror at their recital even at this distance of time. The success of the British arms during the war perpetuated the prosperity of the co- lony, and led to some important improve- ments. Various public buildings were erected at St. Jago de la Vega ; the banks of the Rio Cobre were adorned by groves of aromatic trees and elegant villas and farms ; sugar estates were established ex- tensively on the north side of the island; and peace and plenty shed their blessings over the land. In 1763 Fort Augusta, the large military establishment which occu- pies a promontory at the entrance of King- ston harbour, was destroyed by the explo- sion of its magazine, containing 3000 bar- rels of gunpowder, ignited by lightning. By this catastrophe hundreds of the resi- dents of the garrison were killed and wounded, and immense property was de- stroyed. The number of negro slaves annually im- ported into Jamaica at this period amounted to 16,000, so that within thirty years the slave population had increased from 99,000 to upwards of 200,000, whilst the total nu- merical strength of the whites did not ex- ceed 16,000. England being involved in a war with her North American Colonies, Jamaica was threatened with an attack from the combined fleets of France and Spain, com- manded by Count de Grasse. The designs of these powerful enemies, however, were frustrated by Lords Rodney and Hood, who gained a signal victory over them off Dominica, on the 12th of April, 1782. A marble statue was subsequently erected to Lord Rodney in the square at Spanish Town, or St. Jago de la Vega, to com- ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 19 memorate the event,* and a splendid pre- sent was made to General Archibald Camp- bell, then Lieutenant-Governor, for the pre- parations he had made in defence. His late Majesty William IV., then a midshipman in the navy, visited Jamaica about this period, and had abundant evi- dence of the loyalty of its inhabitants, who subsequently presented him with a star of the value of a thousand guineas. The year 1795 was distinguished by another war with the Maroons, occasioned by the intemperate policy of Earl Balcarres, which ended in the banishment of that high- minded people to Nova Scotia and Sierra Leone. Although tranquillity was again restored, the colonists, from the very circumstances of their condition, were continually subject to alarm. Their connection with the slave- trade, — their gross oppressions of their bondsmen — and the position of the island in reference to the whole of the New World — all contributed to their insecurity ; but the revolution at St. Domingo (now Hayti), and the general state of affairs in Europe, presented an aspect that threa- tened them with inevitable ruin. Although, however, the worst apprehensions were not realized by the occurrences in the neigh- bouring islands, the expenditures occa- sioned by the destruction of so many of the public works, by the disastrous con- flicts within and around them, added to the state and luxury in which the greater part of the inhabitants now revelled, very materially diminished their prosperity, and their ruin was only averted by a loan of 300,000/. from the parent Government. A fire, which nearly consumed the town of Montego Bay — an apprehended invasion of the French from St. Domingo — a con- spiracy among the slaves in Kingston — the abolition of the slave-trade, and the victories of Lord Nelson and Admiral Sir Thomas Duckworth over the French fleets destined to the conquest of the island — are almost the only occurrences deserving of historical record to the year 1823. The events which have transpired from that time to the present will be recorded else- where. It is, however, not unworthy of remark in the conclusion of this sketch, and that chiefly as an evidence of the great * This statue was executed by Bacon, and cost 3000 guineas, impolicy as well as injustice of slavery, that nearly thirty insurrections of the slave population occurred within the period of its possession by the British, and that the insurrection in 1832 involved the lives of 700 of the slaves, and an expense of 161,596/., independently of the value of property destroyed, which was estimated at 1,154,583/., thus rendering a further loan of 300,000/. from the parent Govern- ment necessary to meet the exigencies thus occasioned. The whole past history of Jamaica and of the West India islands in general, like the prophet's roll, " is filled with lamentation, mourning, and woe." It presents only a succession of wars, usur- pations, crimes, misery, and vice ; " nor in this desert of human wretchedness is there one green spot on which the mind of a philanthropist would love to dwell;" all, all is one revolting scene of infamy, blood- shed, and unmitigated woe, of insecure peace and open disturbance, of the abuse of power, and of the reaction of misery against oppression. " Slavery, both Indian and negro, that blighting Upas, has been the curse of the West Indies ; it has ac- companied the white colonist, whether Spa- niard, Frenchman, or Briton, in his pro- gress, tainting, like a plague, every inci- pient association, and blasting the efforts of man, however originally well-disposed, by its demon-like influence over the natural virtues with which his Creator had en- dowed him — leaving all cold and dark, and desolate within."* The following are the names of the Go- vernors, Lieutenant-Governors, and tem- porary rulers of Jamaica, with the years when they commenced their administra- tions : — Governor, Colonel D'Oyley, 1660 ; Go- vernor, Lord Windsor, 1662 ; Lieutenant- Governor, Sir C. Lyttleton, Knt., 1662; President, Colonel Thomas Lynch, 1664; Governor, Sir Thomas Modyford, Knt., 1664 ; Lieutenant-Governor, SirT. Lynch, Knt., 1671 ; Lieutenant-Governor, Sir H. Morgan, Knt., 1675 ; Governor, Lord Vaughan, 1675, Lieutenant-Governor, Sir H. Morgan, Knt. ; Governor, Charles Earl of Carlisle, 1678 ; Lieutenant-Governor, Sir Henry Morgan, Knt., 1680 ; Gover- nor, Sir Thomas Lynch, Knt., 1682 ; Lieutenant-Governor, Col. Hender Moles- * Martin's Colonies. 20 JAMAICA : worth, 1684; Governor, Christopher Duke of Albemarle, 1687; President, Sir Fran- cis Watson, 1688 ; Governor, William Earl of Inchiquin, 1690; President, John White, Esq., 1692; President, John Bour den, Esq., 1692 ; Lieutenant-Governor Sir William Beeston, Knt„ 1693 ; Gover nor, William Selwyn, Esq., 1702 ; Lieu tenant-Governor, P. Beckford, Esq., 1702 Lieutenant-Governor, T. Handasyd, Esq. 1702; Governor, Lord Arch. Hamilton 1711 ; Governor, Peter Haywood, Esq. 1716; Governor, Sir Nicholas Lawes Knt., 1718; Governor, Henry Duke of Portland, 1722 ; President, John Ays cough, Esq., 1722; Governor, Major-Ge neral Robert Hunter, 1728 ; President John Ayscough, Esq., 1734; President John Gregory, Esq., 1735 ; Henry Cun ningham, Esq., was appointed Governor in 1735, but President Gregory was suc- ceeded by Governor Edward Trelawney, Esq., 1738 ; Governor, Charles Knowles, Esq., 1752 ; Lieutenant-Governor, Henry Moore, Esq., 1756 ; Governor, George Haldane, Esq., 1758 ; Lieutenant-Gover- nor, Henry Moore, Esq., 1759 ; Governor, W. H. Lyttleton, Esq., 1762 ; Lieutenant- Governor, R. H. Ettelson, Esq., 1766; Governor, Sir William Trelawney, Bart., 1767 ; Lieutenant-Governor, Lieutenant- Colonel J. Dalling, 1773; Governor, Basil Keith, Knt., 1773 ; Governor, Major-Ge- neral Dalling, 1777 ; Governor, Major- General Archibald Campbell, 1782 ; Lieu- tenant-Governor, Brigadier General Alur- ed Clarke, 1784 ; Governor, Thomas Earl of Effingham, 1790; Lieutenant-Governor, Major-General Williamson, 1793 ; Lieute- nant-Governor, Earl of Balcarres, 1795; Lieutenant-Governor, Lieut. -General G. Nugent, 1801; Lieutenant-Governor, Lt.- General Sir E. Coote, 1806 ; Governor, Duke of Manchester, 1808 ; Lieutenant- Governor, Lieutenant-General E. Morri- son, 1811 ; Governor, Duke of Manches- ter, 1813 ; Lieutenant-Governor, Major- General H. Conran, 1821 ; Governor, Duke of Manchester, 1822 ; Lieutenant- Governor, Major-General Sir John Keene, 1827 ; Governor, Earl of Belmore, 1829 ; President, G. Cuthbert, Esq., 1832 ; Go- vernor, C. H. Earl of Mulgrave, 1832; Lt. -Governor, Maj.-Gen'l. Sir Amos Nor- cott ; Governor, Marquis of Sligo, 1834 ;* * Martin's Colonies. Governor, Lieutenant-General Sir Lionel Smith, Bart., 1836 ; Governor, Sir Chas. Theophilus Metcalfe, 1839 ; Governor, James Earl of Elgin, and Kincardine, 1842. CHAPTER HI. PHYSICAL ASPECTS OP THE COUNTRY. Scenery — Mountains — Rivers — Springs — Cascades- Harbours. It is said that Columbus, when he first discovered the Islands of the Western world, was so enraptured with the beauty and magnificence of the scenery as scarce- ly to be persuaded but that he had reach- ed the fabled regions of romance. Hence the glowing description which he transmit- ted to his royal patrons, Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain. " These countries as far exceed all others in beauty and conve- niency as the sun surpasses the moon in brightness and splendour." Never will the writer forget the feeling's of wonder and admiration with which he first beheld Jamaica, the most beautiful of the group. He was standing on the deck of the ves- sel as she entered the harbour of Port Mo- rant, at its eastern extremity, lt was at an early hour of the morning, the land wind had died away, and not a breath swept the glassy surface of the dark blue sea. Before him stood the Blue mountains rising by an almost abrupt acclivity from the water's edge, their tops enveloped in clouds, and covered from their base to their highest elevation with huge forest- trees and shrubs of novel appearance and beauty, partially obscured by the dense fog that crept along their sides. On either hand, as far as the eye could distinguish, the margin of the sea was fringed with the mangrove-tree, interspers- ed with occasional clumps of the cocoa- nut and mountain-palm ; far along the en- chanting panorama were dwellings that now caught and reflected the first rays of the sun ; while ever and anon, the full tide played in white breakers or in silver cre- scents on the shore. As you proceed towards Port Royal the landscape becomes more diversified. The mountain range which intersects the island ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 21 appears at intervals disjointed, and dimi- nished also in its altitude, presenting nu- merous romantic inequalities beautified by the art of man. Here, amidst a wild wil- derness, are extensive cane-fields and ver- dant pastures of Guinea grass. There, on the summit of a hill overlooking irrigated and verdant fields redeemed from the forest around, and adding a fresh charm to the landscape, stands some bold edifice in the midst of a cluster of substantial buildings resembling the lordly possessions of feudal times, whilst at a little distance, but half discovered amidst the thick foliage of the cocoa-nut groves which marked their site, and the purple darkness of the inland hills, appear groups of smiling villages. An ex- tensive savannah next presents itself, partly covered with wild luxuriance, a stream of water rushing precipitately down the deep and darkly shaded ravines of the contigu- ous hills upon its level bosom ; whilst in the distance the very summit of the cloud- capped mountains, now diverging from the shore crowned with deep woods and cover- ed with perpetual verdure are disclosed, whilst beautiful mansions amidst pimento and coffee plantations, an imposing mili- tary establishment, with here and there a rural sanctuary lifting up its tall spire above, display themselves through their woody enclosure. Amidst these are cot- tages and buildings of diversified appear- ance and size variously distributed. A range of summits stretching far inland to the west, the Healthshire hills at the en- trance of Port Royal harbour, an extensive promontory before us, and the almost illi- mitable horizon to the south, terminate the novel and stupendous scene. In the interior of the island the splen- dour and beauty of the prospect is, if pos- sible, increased. At every successive step the traveller seems to breathe a purer air and to survey a brighter scene. Here the barren, the fertile, the level and the inac- cessible, are commingled. On the one side is seen a fine valley or glade, fertile and irrigated, stretching along the foot of crag- gy and desolate mountains covered with immense rocks slightly intermixed with a dry, arid, and unfruitful soil; on the other, a narrow and precipitous defile, or deep and gloomy cavern where the sun's rays never penetrate, both enclosed by abrupt precipices, overhanging rocks, and imper- vious woods. In this direction the country is varied with ridges of low forest hills rising gradually from the horizon, flat, level, and standing detached like islands. Yonder an extensive valley presents itself as if enclosed by a lofty amphitheatre of wood along which a river flows, meander- ing until lost between two parallel lines of mountains, as though from the bosom of a vast lake, it had forced its passage through them to the sea.* In the more cultivated districts, as viewed from an eminence, the scene is lively and animating beyond de- scription. The negroes in gangs are em- ployed in the fields cutting canes or weed- ing pastures, numerous herds of oxen with other domestic animals graze on the shorn* fields or browse on the verdant slopes; an endless diversity of hill, valley, mountain, and defile, interspersed with clusters of the bamboo cane and towering cocoa palms, which gracefully wave their fea- thery plumes in the breeze, copses of un- derwood, pastures shaded with lofty trees, plantain-walks, ruinates and extensive fields of sugar-cane, of fresh and variegated foli- age, chequer and adorn the entire land- scape. At a greater distance, the exten- sive and beautiful valley, rich in the pro- ducts of the soil, opens to the eye. The morning mists which still partially hang over it, have the illusive appearance of a vast lake resting on its bosom, or a beauti- ful bay with its islands floating on the sur- face of the quiet waters. Behind are the majestic heights, losing themselves by de- grees in the clouds, distributing light and shade in endless contrast, and presenting to the ravished eye a picture every moment glowing with new attractions. At a still greater distance appears the ocean with the shipping, its waters calm and unruffled, or tossed into fury by the winds. The high mountainous district in general presents to the beholder the sylvan beauties of coffee and pimento plantations, with groves of orange and other fruit trees, which at some seasons of the year breathe the perfumes of Arabia. Along the coast to the N. E., N. W., and S., as viewed from the sea, broken and irregular mountains rising from the midst of lesser elevations, their summits crowned with perpendicular rocks of every variety of shape and form which the wild- est imagination can conceive, are contrast- * Sixteen mite Walk between Spanish Town and Bog-walk Tavern in the parish of St. Thomas in the Vale. 23 JAMAICA: ed with the beautiful and verdant clothing of the open glade, round-topped hills, smil- ing villages, numerous cascades, mountain streams and roaring cataracts. The un- imaginable luxuriance of the herbage, the singular exotic appearance of all around, the green-house-like feel and temperature of the atmosphere, and the fresh flush of vegetable fragrance wafted from the shore, are all calculated to regale the senses, ex- hilarate the spirits, and diffuse through the soul a strange delirium of buoyant hope and joy. Jamaica, in a word, may be reckoned among the most romantic and highly-diversified countries in the world, uniting the rich magnificent scenery which waving forests, never-failing streams, and constant verdure can present, heightened by the pure atmosphere, and the glowing tints of a tropical sun.* " Beautiful islands! where the green Which nature wears was never seen '.Neath zone of Europe ; where the hue Of sea and heaven is such a blue As England dreams not ; where the night Is all irradiate with the light Of stars like moons, which, hung on high, Breathe and quiver in the sky, Each its silver haze divine Flinging in a radiant line, O'er gorgeous flower and mighty tree On the soft and shadowy sea ! Beautiful islands! brief the time I dwelt beneath your awful clime ; Yet oft 1 see in noonday dream Your glorious stars with lunar beam; And oft before my sight arise Your sky-like seas, your sea-like skies, Your green banana's giant leaves, Your golden canes in arrowy sheaves, Your palms which never die, but stand Immortal sea-marks on the strand, — Their feathery tufts, like plumage rare, Their stems so high, so strange and fair! Yea ! while the breeze of England now Flings rose-scents on my aching brow, I think a moment I inhale Again the breath of tropic gale." The great series of mountains which in- tersects the island from east to west is, at its highest elevation, nearly 8000 feet above the level of the sea; but there are other extensive ranges of inferior elevation some- times connected with the larger series, and at other times independent of it. These mountains, some of which exhibit proofs of volcanic origin, vary in their elevation * A gentleman, on his return from Jamaica, being asked to describe its surface, (in imitation of Colum- bus when he described the appearance of Dominica to Isabella of Spain.) did so by crumpling a sheet of paper in his hands — a representation than which nothing could give a better idea of the jagged and compressed appearance of its conical mountains. from 2000 feet and upwards. The highest is the Coldridge, at the eastern extremity of the island ;* the St. Catherine's Peak, to the north of Kingston; the Cedar- valley- ridge, in the county of Middlesex, and pa- rish of St. Catherine, on which stands the village of Sligoville; the Bull's Head, in the parish of Clarendon, nearly in the centre of the island; the Dolphin's Head, in the neighbourhood of Lucea, in the pa- rish of Hanover; and Yallahs Hill, on the southeast coast 6f the county of Surrey. In some of them are to be found magnifi- cient natural excavations. The rivers, including springs and rivu- lets, have been estimated at upwards of 200 in number — about 40 are of the larg- est class. From the mountainous nature of the country, and the huge masses of rock that frequently obstruct their course, they are often precipitous, and exhibit nu- merous and beautiful cascades, now flow- ing on in unmurmuring peacefulness, and anon bursting headlong in the foam and thunder of a cataract. On the north side of the island, near to the spot immortalized by the shipwreck of Columbus and the city of Sevilla d'Oro, where the rocks overhang the ocean, no less than eight transparent waterfalls are beheld at the same moment. Very i~ew of the rivers, however, are navi- gable. Among those that are available for this purpose, the principal is Black River, in the parish of Saint Elizabeth, which is navigable for thirty miles towards its source, but only by flat-bottomed boats and canoes. The others are the Rio Cobre and the Rio Minho, on the south ; and Martha Brae, White, Ginger and Great River, on the north. Before leaving this subject it may be interesting to advert to two natural curiosities in St. Anne's parish, which Dr. Coke thus describes : — " The first is a surprising cascade, form- ed by a branch of the Rio Alto, or High River, which is supposed to re-emerge (after a subterraneous current of several miles) between Roaring River Plantation and Menzies' Bog. The hills in this quar- ter are many of them composed of a sta- lactite matter ; by whose easy solution the waters oozing through the rocks are copi- ously charged with it, so that they incrus- tate all bodies deposited in them. The * The summit of the Coldridge is said to be 8184 feet above the level of the sea. ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 23 source of this river is at a very consider- able elevation above the level of the sea, and at a great distance from the coast. From thence it runs between the hills suc- cessively, broad or contracted, as they on each side approach nearer, or recede fur- ther from one another. In one of the more extended spaces it expands its water in a gentle descent among a very curious group of anchovy pear trees, whose spread- ing roots intercept the shallow stream in a multitude of different directions. The wa- ter thus retarded deposits its grosser con- tents, which, in the course of time, have formed various incrustations, around as many cisterns, spread in beautiful ranks, gradually rising one above another. A sheet of water, transparent as crystal, con- forming itself to the flight of steps, over- spreads their surface; and, as the rays of light or sunshine play between the waving branches of the trees, it descends glitter- ing with a thousand variegated tints. The incrustation in many parts is sufficiently solid to bear the weight of a man ; in others it is so thin that some persons, whose curiosity induced them to venture too far, found themselves suddenly plung- ed up to the waist in a cold bath. The sides of the cisterns, or reservoirs, are formed by broken boughs and limbs in- crusted over; and they are supported by the trunks of trees promiscuously growing between them. The cisterns themselves are always full of water, which trickles down from one upon another ; and although several of them are six or seven feet deep, the spectator may clearly discern whatever lies at the bottom. " The laminse which envelope them are in general half an inch thick. To a su- perficial observer their sides have the ap- pearance of stone ; but upon breaking any of them there is found either a bough be- tween the two incrusting coats, or a vacant space which a bough had once filled, but which having mouldered away after a great length of time, had left the cavity. After dancing over these innumerable cisterns the pellucid element divides itself into two currents, and then falling in with other neighbouring rivulets, composes several smaller, but very beautiful falls. " The other cascade, though so named by the inhabitants, may be more properly denominated a cataract, similar to that of the Rhine at Shaffhausen, in Switzerland. It proceeds from the White River, which is of considerable magnitude; and, after a course of about twelve miles among the mountains, precipitates its waters in a fall of about 300 feet, obliquely measured, with such a hoarse and thundering noise that it is distinctly heard at a very great distance. Through the whole descent it is broken and interrupted by a regular suc- cession of steps, formed by a stalactite matter, incrusted over a kind of soft chalky stone, which yields easily to the chisel. Such a vast discharge of water, thus wide- ly agitated by the steepness of the fall, dashing and foaming from step to step with all the impetuosity and rage peculiar to this element, exhibits an agreeable, and, at the same time, an awful scene. The gran- deur of this spectacle is also astonishingly increased by the fresh supplies which the torrent receives after the rainy seasons. At those periods the roaring of the flood, reverberated from the adjacent rocks, trees, and hills; the tumultuous violence of the cataract rolling down with unremitting fury ; and the gloom of the overhanging wood, contrasted with the soft serenity of the sky, the brilliancy of the spray, the flight of birds soaring over the lofty sum- mits of the mountains, and the placid sur- face of the basin at a little distance from the foot of the fall, form an accumulation of objects most happily blended together, and beyond the power of words to express. To complete this animating picture drawn by the hand of Nature, or rather of Na- ture's God, a considerable number of tall and stately trees, beautifully intermixed, rise gracefully from the margin on each side. The bark and foliage of these trees, are diversified by a variety of lovely tints ; and from the basin itself two elegant trees of the palm species appear like two straight columns erected in the water, and tower- ing towards the sky, planted at such equal distances from the banks on each side, that the hand of art could not have effected, by rule, more exactness and propriety in the positions. " Another celebrated curiosity in this parish is the wonderful grotto near Dry Harbour, about fourteen miles west from St. Anne's Bay. It is situated at the foot of a rocky hill, under which it runs a con- siderable way ; it then branches into seve- ral adits, some of which penetrate so far that no person has yet ventured to discover 24 JAMAICA : their termination. The entrance has a truly Gothic appearance: it exhibits the perpendicular front of a rock, having two arched entrances about twenty feet asun- der, which seem as if they had been for- merly doorways. In the centre of the rock, between these portals, is a natural niche about four feet in height, and as many from the ground. In this niche, it is conjectured, that a Madona was placed at some early period of time; especially as there is a small excavation in the form of a basin at the foot of the niche, projecting a little be- yond the surface of the rock, and seeming to be a proper reservoir for the holy water of the Roman Catholics. But this idea implies the workmanship of art, and that the grotto was anciently inhabited, neither of which circumstances is to be traced in Long's detailed description of the interior recesses, which does not materially differ from the descriptions of other grottos and subterraneous cavities in various parts of the globe." In accordance with the original designa- tion of the island, springs are abundant, especially in the parishes of Kingston, St. Andrew, St. Mary, St. George, and St. Anne. They are found amidst the highest mountains, and meander through almost every ravine: several of them posses me- dicinal properties, as the Milk River, in the parish of Vere, which is thus denominated from its warmth and colour. The bath- springs, two in number — one cold, the other hot — are in the parish of St. David, and give to the village in which they are found its designation — Bath. They are sulphureous and chalybeate, and have been found highly beneficial in several disorders, particularly in those of a cutaneous kind, and in visceral obstructions. The water flows out from the hot spring at a temperature of 120. They are sub- fluvian, and would doubtless, if chemically investigated, disclose important geological phenomena. Bath is situated in one of the healthiest and most beautiful spots on the island, and is a great resort for invalids recovering from sickness. It is indeed considered of so much importance to (he public, that it is supported by a yearly grant from the House of Assembly. The harbours are numerous, and many of them are among the most secure and extensive in the West Indies. The princi- pal of these are Kingston, Port Royal, Old Harbour, Port Antonio, and Lucea. "The total number is sixteen, besides thirty bays, roads, or shipping stations, which afford good anchorage." Kingston is a vast basin, protected by Port Royal and a nar- row strip of land called the Palisades, on the one hand, and the Healthshire Hills and the promontory, on which stands the battery of Fort Augusta, on the other. Port Royal is defended in a similar man- ner. Old Harbour, or the Sevilla d'Oro of Don Juan de Esquimel, which was the rendezvous of the Spanish galleons, has been denominated the best in the world ; and but little inferior to these are the road- steads of Port Antonio and Lucea. CHAPTER IV. VEGETABLE AND ANIMAL PRODUCTIONS. Sugar-cane, Coffee, Cocoa, Pimento, Cotton — Indigo, Drugs, Corn, Grasses — Garden Vegetables — Fruit, Flowers, Trees — Animajs: Wild, Domestic — Birds: Wild Fowl, Domestic — Fish — Reptiles — Insects. The vegetable and animal productions of the island are too numerous to detail. The principal of the vegetable productions is the sugar-cane, the " arundo sacchari- fera" of Linnoeus. It was first introduced into St. Domingo about the year 1520 from Asia, where it had been cultivated from the earliest ages, and from thence into Ja- maica in the early part of its settlement by the Spaniards. It is a jointed reed ter- minating in leaves or blades, the edges of which are finely and sharply serrated. The intermediate distance between each joint of the cane varies from one to three inches in length, and from half an inch to an inch in diameter. Its height is from three to seven feet, and, when ripe, is of a fine straw colour. At successive periods since the possession of the island by the British, several other varieties of this valuable plant have been introduced from the South Sea Islands and elsewhere. Having been the staple commodity of Jamaica and the other West India Islands for a series of years, the circumstances of its cultivation are too well and generally known to render a de- scription necessary. In the highlands, and on the mountainous slopes, the coffee-plant flourishes in almost every variety of soil, and usually yields abundant crops. It would attain the height of fourteen or fifteen feet, but to increase its productiveness it is ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 25 seldom suffered to exceed four or five feet. The leaf is a dark green. It bears a pro- fusion of white blossoms, and afterwards the berry covered with a red sweetish pulp. This valuable plant was introduced into Jamaica by Sir Nicholas Lawes in 1728, who cultivated it on his own estate called Temple Hall, in Liguanee. The cultiva- tion of cotton, indigo, and cocoa or choco- late, which were once valuable articles of export, have long since been discontinued, in consequence, as it is said, of the heavy duties with which they were charged. Of the sixty cocoa-walks which, according to Blome, existed in 1672, not one remains, and scarcely a trace of the once numerous indigo factories. Drugs, dye-stuffs, and spices of various kinds of excellent quality, here flourish in great prolusion. Of corn, the Indian maize only is productive; oats, barley and Victoria wheat have been tried in the highlands, but have not been culti- vated with success. The principal grasses cultivated are a valuable species accident- ally introduced from Guinea, whence it derives its name, and the Scotch grass; among the indigenous varieties are the pimento and a delicate species, called the Bahama grass, of exquisite tint, and which, by throwing out elastic fibres, weaves itself into a verdant carpet which rivals in beauty the finest English lawn. Most of the Eu- ropean vegetables grow in the mountainous regions with comparatively little trouble and expense, and a succession of crops may be produced throughout the year — cabbages, turnips, parsnips, artichokes, cucumbers, leeks, radishes, carrots, lettuce, celery, asparagus, peas, potatoes, &c, &c. The only exceptions of importance are the onion and the cauliflower. But in addition to the European esculents are some of na- tive growth by no means inferior, as the chocho, or vegetable marrow, ocro, Lima bean, Indian kale, tomato, or love-apple of the ancients, plaintains, bananas, yams of several varieties, calalue (a species of spi- llage), cassada, and sweet potatoes. The fruits of Jamaica are delicious and most abundant; and, as with the vegeta- bles, every month presents a fresh colla- tion. Some species are at maturity during the entire year; and not unfrequently are to be seen at the same time on the same tree blossoms and fruit in all stages of growth. There are the bread-fruit, the co- coa-nut, the avocado pear, the custa rd-apple, 3 the mango, the guava, the lime, the lemon, the orange, the citron, the shaddock, the tamarind, the soursop, the sweetsop, the Spanish plum, the guava, the cashew, the papaw, the pomegranate, the grape, the fig, the wall and chestnut, the mulberry, the naseberry, the star-apple, the date, the olive, the melon, the pine-apple, the grana- dilla, &c, &c. Few of the European fruits are to be found, except the apple and the strawberry, and these are degenerated both in size and flavour. In different parts of the island there is an adaptation of soil and climate to the vegetable productions of almost every region of the globe, and it is a matter of regret that hitherto such little attention has been paid to the improvement of horticulture. Among other plants much might be said of the advantages that would result from the cultivation of the sun-flower as a substitute for corn, as well as for me- dicinal purposes. The trees of the island, of which there is almost an infinite variety, are peculiarly novel in their appearance to an European stranger; there is scarcely one which he can identify with any in his own land Among the most beautiful, both for orna ment and use, are the pimento or alspice tree, the papaw, the tamarind, the cocoa and the palmetto royal. The pimento at tains considerable height, and is covered with a dark green foliage, often relieved by its delicate white blossom. The spice is a small berry which grows in bunches, and when ripe is like the elder-berry in size and colour. Even the leaves of this lovely tree, when pressed, emit a strong aromatic odour. In the country they are disposed in different compartments, or in groves crowning the hills and scattered down the declivities, exhibiting a clean verdant car- pet of grass beneath. When swept by the breeze they shed their spicy fragrance through the air, imparting a charm to na- ture indescribable. So powerful, indeed, is the aromatic atmosphere of these groves, that they admit no herbaceous production to thrive within their shadow. The papaw produces a delicious fruit growing as a fungus below its capital of long stemmed, and broad green leaves. The tamarind', besides its fruit, with its umbrageous and delicate leaves affords a delicious shade both to man and beast. The cocoa or chocolate-tree is a native of South America. It somewhat resembles the English cherrv- 26 JAMAICA: tree, and requires a good soil as well as a moist and sheltered situation. The mango- tree (Magnifera Indica) resembles in form [Cocoa -Tree.] the horse-chestnut-tree : its fruit is about the size of a goose's egg, and some of its varieties not unlike an orlean plum in fla- vour. The palmetto royal, with its ver- dant capital of waving branches, which sometimes attains the height of upwards of 140 feet, furnishes also a delicious vegeta- ble. The bombax ceiba, or silk-cotton- tree, the baobab, and the wild fig-trees, are of gigantic size. The ceiba, when hollowed out, has been known to furnish a boat capable of containing one hundred persons. The branches of the baobab, or great cali- bash, extending horizontally, are each, as with those of the ceiba, equal to a large tree. The most remarkable of the trees is the mangrove. It grows in inundated spots along the sea, and propagates itself by its seed in an astonishing manner. Its elastic branches also bending downwards upon the loose muddy soil around, strike root and grow, and thus the original plant diffuses itself in every direction and form. The cedar, the mahogany, the black and green ebony, the lignum vitas, the fustic, the logwood, are too well known to require description. In addition to these, and which are used in building and in orna- mental cabinet-work, are the iron-wood, dog-wood, pigeon wood, green-heart, bra- zillelto, mahoe, and bully-trees, some of which are so compact in grain that they will sink in water. The bread-nut, the wild lemon, the wild tamarind, and others of a softer description, are not less valuable for other purposes. Altogether there are fifty varieties of excellent timber available to the architect, the mill-wright, and the cabinet-manufacturer. Many of the huge forest-trees display thousands of parasitical plants in endless varieties, with flowers of the most delicate and gorgeous hues. Some of the creepers entwine themselves round the trunks of these giants of the vegetable world, and, throwing out their tendrils from the branches on all sides, attach themselves to the ground, presenting the appearance of immense ca- bles, as if designed to protect these kings of the forest from the fury of the elements. Of all the plants of smaller growth, per- haps the bamboo cane is the most orna- mental and useful. Nothing can present a more exquisitely beautiful appearance than clumps of these rising from eighty to a hundred feet in height, and yielding their graceful plumes to the breeze, while at the same time they afford shade and fodder for cattle, and supply some of the most essen- tial wants of the husbandman. Aromatic shrubs and flowers of every variety of size, and which are raised with difficulty in the hot-houses of England, cover the face of the ground; but generally speaking, they are " born to blush unseen, and waste their sweetness on the desert air." After the autumnal rains the whole interior of the country presents the appear- ance of an immense garden, while the sur- rounding atmosphere is perfumed with the most fragrant odour. Very few of the European varieties are cultivated, but they might be introduced with considerable suc- cess. It is lamentable that in a country where nature has lavished the choicest of ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 27 her beauties, and afforded such facilities of ornament, that so little taste has been dis- played by the inhabitants, and so lit tie in- clination manifested to avail themselves of these advantages. Among the less attrac- tive, indeed, but not less useful plants of the wilderness, is the wild pine, which, like the " lovely lotus in the boundless and arid wastes of Africa, enshrines in her bosom the crystal drop for the relief of the thirsty traveller."* Some of them are said to contain a quart of water, and will retain it in certain situations during weeks of drought. It was from these sources that the Maroons were supplied with re- freshment during the extremities to which they were frequently reduced in their con- flicts with the white inhabitants. The most lovely of the indigenous tribes are the granidilla, or double passion-flower; the night-blowing ceres; the African rose; and some of the species of convolvolus and acacia ; the cassia alata, with its golden clusters; and the splendid mountain-pride. Of all the flowers of indigenous growth, however, none present such an assemblage of floral splendour as the great aloe (agave Americana). When in blossom they have a most magnificent and striking appear- ance. The author has seen several in full blossom at one time. The spikes shoot out from the centre of the plant, to the height of from twelve to fifteen feet, and bear branches of flowers in a thyrsus. The flowerets are of a bright yellow colour, and of a tubular shape. Each spike pro- duces hundreds of these brilliant ornaments of nature. Emphatically may it besaid : — " This is the land where citrons scent the gale, Where dwells the orange in the golden vale, Where softer zephyrs fan the azure skies, Where myrtles grow and prouder laurels rise." Of wild animals there were originally but eight species : — the monkey, the arma- dillo, the opossum, the peccari, the agouti, the alco, the muskrat, and the raccoon. The only kind of importance that now re- mains is the wild hog. A large species of this is numerous throughout the woods of the interior, and very destructive to provi- sion-grounds. On this account, as well as for sport, they are sometimes hunted ; but the animal being of immense size, and fur- nished with large tusks, such excursions are extremely dangerous to the assailants. * Hodgson. The domestic quadrupeds are of European origin, and thrive equally with those of the temperate zone. The drudgery of planta- tion-work, and the conveyance of produce to the barquidiers, is usually performed by oxen and mules. It is notorious that, with the exception of the nightingale, or mocking-bird, (turdus polyglottus), that extraordinary phenome- non of animate nature, but few of the feathered tribe are distinguished by the variety and melody of their notes. Their plumage, however, is exquisitely beautiful, and their number, in addition to their va- riety in size and colour, affords a fine field for the gratifying pursuits of the ornitho- logist. The green parrot, the banana-bird, the green todie, the small martin, and the different species of the humming-bird, are the most attractive. The beauty and ele- gance of the latter, in form and plumage, defy description, exhibiting alternately, as it flutters and shifts its position to the sun, all the colours of the rainbow, in exquisite combination — now a ruby, now a topaz, now an emerald, now all burnished gold. " On their restless fronts Bear stars illumination of all gems." Some of them are not larger than a mo- derately-sized beetle, and weigh not more than twenty grains. The most beautiful is the long-tailed species. It has plumes of about six inches long, crossing each other and expanding themselves into a fan- shaped tuft. They are otherwise distin- guishable by their long and slender bills. The mandibles of the bill are finely toothed, or serrated on their edges, and their tongues, which are capable of considerable extension, are terminated by a small fork. This beautiful bird might be much more appropriately called the Bird of Paradise than that which has now the honour to bear the name. All European domestic fowls are abun- dant. Wild-fowl are to be found during some seasons of the year in countless num- bers, and most of them are considered of delicious flavour. Here is the wild guinea- fowl, several varieties of the wild pigeon and dove, of the duck, the widgeon, the plover, the quail, the snipe, and the orto- lan. The ring-tailed pigeon is considered the most exquisite of the winged species. Aquatic birds of the pelican, the flamingo, the gull, the stork, the heron, and the 28 JAMAICA crane kind, abound in the neighbourhood of the coast. Many carnivorous birds are found, but of the buzzard varieties (the catharles of Wilson) only is known. This is vulgarly called the "John Crow." Though disgusting in its appearance, it is of such utility in clearing the country of putrescent carcases, that any person wan- tonly destroying one is by an act of the legislature subject to a penalty of three pounds sterling. The sea-coast, rivers, bays, creeks, with the ponds of sea and fresh water, abound with fish. Of these the calipaver, the mullet, the king-fish, barracoota rock-fish, grouper, jew-fish, the white-bait, and the snapper, are the most delicious, equalling any of the best description in Europe. The flying-fish, the dolphin, the sword, the parrot, the sun, and the boneeto, are among the second class ; and the john-a- dory, the cutlass, the old wife, the torpedo, and the porpoise, among the third. The sea-monsters are the sea-cow, the devil-fish, and the shark. The sea-cow (Trichecus manati) is of enormous size, and resembles the animal from which it derives its name, both in its form and in the quality of its flesh. It is amphibious, and is often found grazing on the banks of rivers. The devil-fish is flat, of amaz- ing breadth, and altogether disgusting in appearance. It is harpooned like the whale, and yields a valuable oil. Among these might with propriety be classed the sword- fish. One of these was caught in King- ston harbour some months since, measur- ing from the point of the sword to the tail 11 feet 10 inches; length of the sword 3 feet 5 inches ; extreme breadth at the shoulder 1 foot 7 inches ; weight 270 lbs. Sharks are numerous, and are of immense size and of great voracity. One of these monsters was caught some time ago near Old Harbour full 10 feet in length, and about the girth of the largest sized man. There were found in his stomach, on open- ing him, fifteen asses'* hoofs and legs from the knee downwards, half an undressed cow-hide, rolled up for tanning, and a piece of beef of about six pounds' weight. Both sea and land turtle are plentiful, as also oysters, craw-fish, and land-crabs. * Asses and mules are imported in large numbers from the Spanish Main: probably this huge creature had supped heartilv altera shipwreck. The oysters are small, and are usually found attached to the roots and stems of the mangrove, which, obtruding themselves into the sea, the oysters fasten upon them. This has given rise to the representation of oysters growing on trees. Turtle is plentiful in the neighbourhood of Kingston and Old Harbour: it feeds on sea-grass. The female lays an almost incredible num- ber of eggs — it is supposed between 800 and 900. They are caught in nets, by the harpoon, or by the hand, by torchlight. When laid on the back they are incapable of effecting their escape. There are two or three species of the land-crab. That distinguished by the name of the mountain- crab, and which is found in particular dis- tricts on the north side of the island, has been considered the greatest delicacy in the world. The habits of these animals are remarkable. In their retreats in the mountain districts, which are generally about one or two miles from the beach, they inhabit the earth and the stumps of trees. They go down to the sea once a year to deposit their spawn, and perform their march in a straight line with the exactest order, allowing no obstacle that can be surmounted to obstruct their course, even climbing over houses and precipitous rocks. Here they remain until the young ones have attained sufficient size and strength for the journey, when they return to their habitations followed by the young fry. They begin to spawn in December and January, and during these months, until May, are considered fit for the table, but are in their greatest perfection in the season of moulting. Another species is found on the south side of the island, but of inferior quality. During the rainy season they swarm, and afford abundant food to the poorer classes of both town and country. By some creole families they are kept for months in barrels, or some other place of security, and, being fed with corn and the refuse of vegetables, are almost as great a delicacy as the mountain species. " These are often found in grave-yards, and feed and fatten on the dead. Hence, while in England the dead are said to be food for worms, in Jamaica they are represented as food for crabs."* Reptiles are numerous, but few of them are venomous. Among these are the nu- * Martin's Colonies. ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 29 merous lizard tribe ; the guano, the came- lion, the galliwasp, and the alligator, or caymen. Of snakes, the silver, the black and the yellow. Of the smaller reptiles, the centipede and the scorpion. The alli- gator is the giant of the saurian race ; it infests the rivers and lagoons near the sea, and is frequently to be found in the neigh- bourhood of Kingston, Old Harbour, Salt River, and Alligator Pond, on the south- ern coast. They are from twelve to fif- teen feet in length, and, notwithstanding assertions to the contrary, do not hesitate, under certain circumstances, to attack man, as on the authority of the public prints, two or three individuals have been killed by them within the last three years. The female generally lays between thirty and forty eggs ; she deposits them com- monly in some sunny spot on the sea- beach, covering them over with sand. They are hatched by the heat of the sun in about thirty days after they are laid, at which time both the male and female alli- gators return. As soon as the young ones are hatched they are borne by the female on her back into the sea, when she teaches them to swim. The eggs have a highly enamelled surface, are of a whitish colour, and about the size of those of the Muscovy duck. The smaller species of lizard is so domesticated that it may be considered a regular inmate of every dwelling, as are also centipedes and scorpions. The stings of the latter have been known to occasion death. Snakes will sometimes defend themselves against an attack by man, but their bite is rarely known to prove fatal. The yellow snake sometimes grows to the length of ten feet ; it is remarkably indo- lent, and is killed and eaten by some of the African tribes. These reptiles are nu- merous in some districts, and not unfre- quently infest dwelling-houses in the coun- try. The writer has in two or three in- stances found them in houses which he has occupied, and once narrowly escaped hav- ing a black snake for his bedfellow. An occurrence of this kind is related as hav- ing actually taken place. A large yellow snake finding its way through the jealou- sies* of a plantation-house, coiled itself up on the bed in which a gentleman was sleeping ; feeling something press heavily upon him in the morning, he opened his * A large description of fixed Venetian blind. eyes, and to his amazement and horror be- held a huge snake close upon his body. He was so terror-stricken that he could neither move nor call for assistance, and in this situation continued until relieved by a negro servant, who had come into his apartment to ascertain the cause of his not having left liis room at his usual hour. It is scarcely necessary to add that the rep- tile atoned for its temerity by its life. Insects crawl upon the ground and float in the atmosphere as numerous as dense forests, gloomy caverns, stagnant waters, and a tropical sun can quicken them into life. Ants, cockroaches, fire-flies, mosqui- toes, sand-flies, chigoes, spiders, bees, and wasps. Ants cover the whole surface of the soil, and so completely infest the repo- sitories of food, that the ingenuity of in- dustrious and cleanly housewives is se- verely taxed for expedients to preserve them from their depredations. The white, or wood-ant, displays on a larger scale the arts and organization for which the spe- cies is so famed in England, and is parti- cularly destructive to houses. Cockroaches are another formidable foe to domestic cleanliness and economy. The fire-fly is a beautiful and harmless insect, of a gray- ish colour, and about the size of a common beetle. It emits a brilliant light from two globular orbs just above the eye ; and the millions of them that in the country flutter among the trees and in the cane-fields on a dark night have a most interesting appear- ance. They resemble a kind of second firmament of luminous points moving with all the eccentric courses of comets and me- teoric balls, and with all the glory that tracks the shooting stars — " And every hedge and copse is bright With the quick fire-fly's playful light; Like thousands of the sparkling gems Which blaze in eastern diadems." The light which they emit is so conside- rable that the cruel practice exists anion" - the negroes of making them subserve the use of candles by securing a number of them in a glass or other transparent vessel. The way in which they are most easily caught is by blowing a fiery stick, thus keeping up a kind of intermitting light si- milar to that produced by themselves. But of all the insect tribes the most annoying is the mosquito, especially to new-comers. It would appear that they have an aversion to blood in which the serum is in excess 30 JAMAICA through disease, or in which the blood is otherwise changed in its constituent princi- ples ; as it consists with universal experi- ence that a European newly arrived is much more liable to their attacks than a native, or an individual who has been for any length of time in the country. It is scarcely distinguishable from the common gnar by ordinary observers. They some- times fill the atmosphere ; and, being fur- nished with a proboscis for puncturing the skin, attack the uncovered parts of the body, or those but slightly defended, and cover them with blisters, which create such an intolerable itching as have occa- sioned very serious consequences to the sufferers. As a necessary protection against their attacks by night, the beds are commonly surrounded by curtains of light gauze, or, as it is called, mosquito-net. In some si- tuations, owing to their numbers and the fierceness of their attacks, the sensation they produce is scarcely endurable; and the only means of obtaining partial relief is by kindling a fire, and creating clouds of smoke. The bite of the small black spider and tarantula is sometimes fatal. The cell of the latter is perhaps one of the greatest of natural curiosities. Bees are numerous ; and, if cultivated and preserv- ed from ants and other enemies, would be- come a source of considerable profit. The sand-fly is a very minute dipterous insect, which abounds on the sea-shore. It is formidable from its numbers ; punctur- ing the skin in the same manner as the mosquito, and occasioning the same sensa- tions as that insect. The chigo is a species of acarus. It penetrates the skin of the toes and feet ; once secured in the cavity it has thus formed, it constructs a bag or nest, — there deposits its eggs, and hatches a numerous progeny. The bag is extracted by a nee- dle ; and, when full grown, is of the size and appearance of a blue pea. If suffered to remain in the flesh for any length of time, its progeny would so augment, each young one producing a separate bag, as to occasion violent inflammation, and proba- bly amputation of the limb. The guinea-worm (filaria aredinensis) a dangerous and disgusting animal, is para- sitic in man- It has been found in negroes imported from Africa from six to twelve feet in length. It is usually found in the thick part of the leg, or round the eye, and sooner or later destroys the life of its victim. CHAPTER V. DIVISIONS. Counties — Parishes — Roads — Towns — Villages — Houses ; exterior appearance and interior arrange- ment. The island is divided into three coun- ties — Middlesex, Surrey, and Cornwall ; and these are subdivided into twenty-three parishes. It contains six towns and twen- ty-seven villages, independently of those which have been recently established by the peasantry. The principal of the old settlements are St. Jago de la Vega, or Spanish Town, the capital ; Kingston, Port Royal, Montego Bay, Falmouth, Savanna- la-Mar, Lucea, Morant Bay, Port Antonio, Annotto Bay, Port Maria, St. Anne's Bay, Black River, and Old Harbour. Spanish Town is situated on the banks of the Rio Cobre, nearly at the extremity of a noble plain, bounded by the Cedar Valley Mountains on the N. and N.W., and is six miles distant from the sea at Port Henderson and Passage Fort. A large square occupies the centre of the town, formed by public buildings in the Spanish American style, which are extensive, and display considerable architectural taste. Government House — including beneath the same roof the Council Chamber, Court of Chancery, and various other offices — occupies the whole of the west side. It is considered the most substantial and com- modious of any building of a similar kind in the West Indies, and was erected by the colonists at the cost of 50,000/. A range of equal extent, called the House of As- sembly, but which includes the County Court-House, and the offices of judicial and other functionaries, stands directly oppo- site. At one end of the northern range is the Arsenal and Guard-House ; at the other, the offices of the Island Secretary, con- nected by a temple that contains a statue of Lord Rodney, erected in commemoration of his victory over the French fleet in 1782, and a beautiful semicircular colon- ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 31 nade. Corresponding with this, to a con- siderable degree, is a range on the south side, containing magnificent rooms for pub- lic amusements, and offices for miscellane- ous public purposes. A considerable por- tion of the area thus formed contains a garden in beautiful order, intersected by gravel walks. Ornamented by choice trees, flowers, and shrubs, and protected from spoliation by elegant palisades, it creates a rational source of recreation and amuse- ment to the elite of the town, for which they are indebted to the taste and public spirit of Mr. Custos Ramsay. The Bar- racks, the Church, the Wesleyan- Chapel, and the premises of the Baptist Missionary Society, in addition to a kw beautiful vil- las that adorn the suburbs of the town, are the principal objects of attraction to the stranger. The population is estimated at about 10,000. Kingston, the great commercial city, and which contains a population of about 40,000 inhabitants, stands on a gentle slope of the Liguanea Mountains (immediately in the rear), which form a part of the highest ridge of the Blue Mountain chain. It is terminated on the east by a small bat- tery, called Rock Fort ; on the west by an extensive lagoon on the road to Spanish Town and Passage Fort ; and on the south by Fort Augusta and the narrow channel by which it is approached from Port Roy- al, from the latter of which it appears al- most enclosed by a semicircular ridge of mountains. The streets are long, formed in straight lines, intersecting each other at right an- gles. As with Jamaica towns in general, many of the streets are narrow and dirty ; and all of them being at the same time un- paved, and infested with domestic animals, reflect but little credit on the city authori- ties. The houses of the principal inhabi- tants are chiefly two stories high, and are enclosed with spacious verandahs in the French and Spanish style. The Church,* the Chapels of Ease, the Scotch Kirk, two of the Wesleyan and one of the Baptist chapels, are large, substantial, and beauti- ful buildings, as are also the Court House, the Military Establishment at Up Park Camp, and the villas, half hidden by the * Beneatli the altar of the church lies Admiral Benbow, and in another burying-place is a tomb which bears the arms and name of the noble family of the Talbots. aromatic trees and shrubs that adorn the skirts of the town, and the slopes of Li- guanea. Port Royal occupies the extremity of the narrow peninsula which is connected with the main land on the east of Kingston and Port Royal harbours. The town, but a miserable wreck of its former greatness, is ornamented with several large and beau- tiful buildings belonging to the naval and military departments, together with some handsome and capacious private houses. It presents an imposing appearance from the sea; groves of cocoa-nut trees in state- ly columns, waving their verdant branches among the buildings ; but the streets are irregular and narrow, and the town alto- gether possesses but little claim to cleanli- ness. Once a place of the greatest wealth and importance in the New World, it is now perhaps the poorest and most wretch- ed ; an occurrence which, owing to the short-sighted policy of the Legislature, and the " spirit and manners of the age," was consummated by the removal of the dock- yard to Canada, and its consequent aban- donment as the chief naval station in the West Indian and North American colonies. Montego Bay towards the N.W. extre- mity of the island, and the chief town of the parish of St. James, is situated nearly in the centre of an amphitheatre of moun- tains, opening only in one direction to- wards the sea. It is considered a flourish- ing and opulent town ; the private build- ings are in general neat and picturesque, having usually a garden in front, display- ing flowering shrubs, shaded by aromatic trees. The streets are wide and tolerably clean. With the exception of the Baptist Chapel, the Court House, and the parish church, it contains no public buildings of magnitude and importance. The square and the market-place are spacious and con- veniently situated, but require a little more of the elaborations of art to render them agreeable as places of resort, whether for purposes of business or pleasure. Falmouth, formerly Martha Brae, stands on the west side of the Harbour, and is the chief town and sea-port of the parish of Trelawney. It is of considerable mag- nitude, and is increasing both in extent and commerce. The houses are mostly built of wood, and are two stories high, neat in external appearance, but, as is the case in general on the north side of the 32 JAMAICA island, exhibiting a very unfinished inte- rior. The characterof thetown is American. It contains some good public buildings, among which are the Church, the Baptist and Wesleyan Chapels, the Scotch Kirk, the Court House, and the Barracks. It possesses also the convenience of a sup- ply of fresh water for domestic purposes by means of an hydraulic machine. As at Montego Bay, the stores and shops are well supplied with merchandise, and the town presents a clean and rural appear- ance. Intersected by several fine rivers, and nearly surrounded by mountains and hills enclosing a highly cultivated district, the neighbourhood of Savanna-la-mar is inte- resting if not imposing, but the town, the principal one of the parish of Westmore- land, situated on an alluvial flat on the beach, is low and unhealthy. It was once nearly destroyed by an earthquake, and seems now ready to submerge in the sea. Some good and substantial houses occupy the principal street, which runs in a straight line from the shore, and some pleasant villas are seen in the suburbs, but it is not distinguished for its public buildings, or its social and parochial regulations. The Bap- tist Chapel, a neat and substantial building, was lately destroyed by fire, but it has been rebuilt, and is an ornament to the town. Lucea, Saint Anne's Bay, Port Maria, and Port Antonio, the chief town of the parish of Hanover, St. Anne's, St. Mary, and Portland are next in considera- tion, all of which are increasing rapidly in extent and importance, and are among the most picturesque and improving on the island. The houses in general are of various style and construction. In the country they are built chiefly of wood. In some instances they are raised on a foundation of stone, in others on pedestals of stone or wood from two to six feet from the ground. The buildings of estates are usually of stone, and in the towns on the south side of the island they are principally of stone or brick. For the admission of light and air, some are protected from the sun and rain, either wholly or in part, by jealou- sies, or by these and sash windows, with Venetian blinds. To most of the houses is attached either a piazza enclosed by jea- lousies or an open colonnade. These, be- ing usually painted green and white, pre- sent a neat and interesting appearance. The inner apartments commonly consist of a spacious hall, a sitting-room, with bed- rooms, and other smaller apartments ; many of them are elegantly furnished, and exhibit floors of polished mahogany and cedar. The kitchen, accommodation for the servants, and rooms for domestic and other purposes, are situated at a distance from the dwelling-house, or are, at least, detached from it, and usually form three sides of a square in the rear of the dwell- ing-house, leaving a court-yard in the centre, shaded by an umbrageous tree. Altogether, the interior of the towns and villages in the island is far from being pre- possessing to a stranger, especially as com- pared with the towns and villages of the other islands, exhibiting the unsightly as- pect of dirty streets, noisy inhabitants, and miserable hovels intermixed with substan- tial and spacious houses. In their exter- nal appearance, however, most of the towns and villages present to the eye of an European a picture inexpressibly refresh- ing and lovely, adorned by the cocoa-nut- tree, the palm, the orange, the shaddock, the lime, together with the umbrageous ta- marind, the box, and the kenap, which in- tercept the fierce rays of the sun, and af- ford a shadow which the panting inhabi- tants both appreciate and enjoy ; whilst, in their suburbs studded with sugar and cof- fee plantations, the eye roams over fields of fresh and vivid green, every where in- terspersed with groves of towering cocoa- palms, plantains, and bananas of rich and variegated foliage, mingled with plants and flowering shrubs of every diversity of form, tint, and perfume. The Roads in Jamaica are a disgrace to a civilized community, and militate consi- derably against its agricultural prosperity. Immense sums of money are annually voted from the parochial taxes and the ge- neral revenue for their repair, but to little purpose. Even the lines of communica- tion between the principal towns are very little belter than river courses, which place the life of every traveller in jeopardy. Deaths from this cause indeed are of fre- quent occurrence. Proposals were made by the legislature at its last sitting to re- medy this great public inconvenience ; and it is hoped that the arrangements for the purpose will be economical, effective, and permanent. ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 33 The whole island presents evident ap- pearances of volcanic origin,* and on the summit of one of the mountains in the pa- rish of St. George, about 3000 feet above the level of the sea, there exists the appear- ance of an extinct crater. It has never been known, however, to exhibit any vol- canic action. Great variety of soil is found in the island. In some districts it is chalky and calcareous, in others, a brick loam of a chocolate colour prevails. Some of the hills are composed of a red uncohe- sive earth containing a mixture of carbo- nate of iron. A deep black vegetable mould and a purple loam of extraordinary vigour usually occurs in valleys in the im- mediate neighbourhood of the high moun- tain ranges. This quality of soil is not unfrequently found in other situations, and is best adapted for the growth of the su- gar-cane and coffee. In the mountain dis- tricts a substratum of dark rich mould of considerable depth is found studded with large masses of lime-stone rock, usually cultivated as provision-grounds. A fine earth is found by the Rio Cobre in Spanish Town, as also in the neighbourhood of Kingston, from which excellent bricks are made. Many of the mountains are cover- ed with lime-stone, and in some places on the coast they oppose an abrupt barrier to the sea. They consist generally of secon- dary lime-stone, associated with deposits of sand-stone, and are commonly of calca- reous formation. In addition to the white lime-stone as one of the principal rocks, is the graywacke and the trap-rock, the lat- ter of which indicates the action of fire. Bastard marble, subcrystalline spar, and lamellated amianthus, occur in some of the parishes in large masses. Marl is formed in many parts of the island, and strata of argillaceous earth. Whole mountains are tIso composed entirely of carbonate of lime. Rock-spar is abundant in the parish of St. Anne ; and in other parts, white * " The appearance of these tropical islands," says the estimable author of ' A Winter in the West In- dies,' " rising suddenly from the sea, and forming steep pyramidal elevations, sometimes of bare rock, other times covered with greenness, leads one to trace their existence to some vast impulse from below. There can be little doubt, I suppose, that they are in general of volcanic origin ; and that they are not of that fathomless antiquity to which some of the geolo- gical strata pretend, is plainly evinced by the circum- stance that the fossil shells and corals, which are found embedded in their mountain tops, are often precisely the same kinds as are still discovered in the Caribbean seas." free-stone and quartz. The former on the north side of the island forms whole strata, and constitutes rocks of amazing magni- tude. Maritime and land shells abound in the great alluvial plains, and coral banks, and madrepores, those magnificent orna- ments of the sea, are found in several parts near the coast, as are numerous vestiges of organic bodies ; whilst on the tops of the mountains both animal and vegetable fossils of an extraneous kind occur. Caves and caverns, some of them of very consi- derable extent, and which are supposed to be connected with the early history of the aboriginal inhabitants, are numerous, and would abundantly repay the investigations of the geologist. Several varieties of lead and iron ores are contained in the mountains of Liguanea near Kingston, as also several species of copper ores and striated antimony. A lead- mine was opened some years since in the same parish ; but it was discontinued, more, it is supposed, on account of want of en- terprise and public spirit than from any deficiency either in the quality or abun- dance of the mineral. A copper-mine in the same neighbourhood is now in progress of being worked, and, if prosecuted ivith vigour, promises considerable pecuniary ad- vantages to the company by whom its operations are undertaken. " The Health- shire hills," says Bridges, " are reported to have furnished the copper which compos- ed the bells of the Abbey church in Spanish Town." Particles of golden mica have been found in districts near the source of the Rio Cobre, and sometimes, near Spanish Town, it has been seen incorporated with potter's clay. Gold and silver particles were evidently found in different parts of the country by the Spaniards, especially in the bed of the Rio Mina in Clarendon, as the remains of lavaderos or basins are still to be seen in which they were cleaned from their solu- ble and extraneous cohesions. Situated within eighteen degrees of the equator, it will naturally be conceived that the climate is of a higher temperature than that of Europe. The thermometer ranges in the lowlands, throughout the year, be- tween 70° and 80° of Fahrenheit, and in the mountains variously, according to their elevation, from 50° to 75°. Were it not for the sea and land breezes, which blow the greater part of the day and night, al- 34 JAMAICA: temately, throughout the year, and the masses of cloud which often interpose be- tween the fierce rays of the sun, the heat in the towns on the coast, during some seasons of the year, would be almost insup- portable. The sea breeze usually blows on the south side of the island, from the south-east. It commences in the morning and gradually increases until the middle of the day; it then diminishes, and dies away at about five o'clock. The land breeze usually sets in between seven and eight o'clock in the evening, increasing until midnight, and ceases about four in the morning. The former of these breezes is occasioned by the cold air moving towards those parts in which the air is rarefied by the sun's heat ; and the latter by the hot rarefied air of the plains ascending to the summits of the mountains, where, being condensed by cold, and made consequently specifically heavier, it descends back in a current to the lowlands. The balmy fresh- ness and salutary influences of these cur- rents can scarcely be conceived by those who have never experienced the fervent heat of the torrid zone. The air is usually buoyant and elastic, almost uniformly equal in pressure, and ex- erting an enlivening influence on the spirits. The temperature of the mountains alter- nates at some periods of the year eight or ten degrees ; but, unlike many parts of the United States, in the same degree of lati- tude, it is not subject to sudden transitions. The coolest and most pleasant months range from November to April, and the hottest and most insalubrious from May to October. During the intervals that elapse morn- ing and evening, between the blowing of the sea and land breezes, as well as during the middle of the day, at all seasons of the year, the heat in the lowlands is dreadfully oppressive, but in the earlier hours of the morning, from four to seven o'clock, the coolness, freshness, and fragrancy of the air is delightful. Owing to the great rarity of the atmosphere there is no twilight, and the shortest day is of two hours' less dura- tion than the longest, thus averaging twelve hours from January to December. There is a difference of four hours and a half in the time of Jamaica and England. When it is eight o'clock a.m. in London it is half past twelve p.m. in Kingston. The ther- mometer of Fahrenheit seldom varies throughout the whole year more than ten degrees. In the hottest months, on the plains, the difference between the tempera- ture of noonday and midnight is not greater than six degrees. The medium tempera- ture of the air may be said to be 75° of Fahrenheit. In the hottest months, July and August, it is sometimes as high as 100° in the shade, and in the mountains it has been known as low as 49°. Considerable variation is observable in different parts of the island in the seasons of the year. Some individuals divide them into four, as in Europe, but generally they are distinguished by wet and dry. The wet seasons range from May to June and from October to November. They are usually preceded, especially in the spring, by coruscations of lightning and peals of thunder, reverberating from peak to peak of the distant mountains, truly appalling to a stranger in the tropics. The horizon thickens with lurid clouds that roll their dense masses along the troubled atmo- sphere; suddenly the tempest bursts; the rain falls in torrents — sometimes almost without intermission for eight or ten suc- cessive days, at other times during a period of several hours each day through several weeks. In the former case torrents dash down the ravines of the mountains with dreadful impetuosity, tearing up huge forest trees in their course, forming hundreds of cascades, rendering rivers impassable, and deluging the towns and villages of the plains. Fifty inches of water, it is estimat- ed, fall on an average throughout the year. The war of elements, as it has been often witnessed at these seasons by the writer, from the summit of a high mountain chain, is awfully and almost inconceivably impos- ing. Vast masses of clouds are collected, and stand like pyramids on the surround- ing eminences. A black volume, deeply charged with electricity, passes majestical- ly along, when suddenly pierced by the spiral tops of the fixed groups it acts on them like the discharges of an electric jar, and streaming and vivid lightning pours in all directions through the vast expanse, tearing immense forest trees to atoms, and carrying swift destruction in its course. At length the clouds disperse, and the clear blue sky appears — the glorious sun again flings abroad his beams, and the tropical summer reigns in all its glory. The sky is now tranquil, and all nature is dressed ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 35 in her richest livery. Nor is the night now less serene and beautiful ; not a cloud floats over the azure sky ; the stars shed their light with but little scintillation ; the splendid southern constellation nearly en- circles the heavens. Venus, like the moon, throws her shadows from the greater ob- jects around, and the sovereign of night, assuming an almost vertical position, seems to rule as mistress of a milder day. There are, perhaps, but few places on the globe to which these lines of Homer can apply with greater exactness than to a West In- dian summer's night : — " As when the moon, refulgent lamp of night. O'er heaven's clear azure spreads her sacred light: When not a breath disturbs the deep serene, And not a cloud o'ercasts the solemn scene; Around her throne the vivid planets roll, And stars unnumber'd gild the glowing pole : O'er the dark trees a yellower lustre shed, And tip with silver every mountain's head : Then shine the vales, the rocks in prospect rise, A flood of glory bursts from all the skies ; The conscious swains, rejoicing in the sight, Eye the blue vault, and bless the useful light." With proper attention to dress and diet, with temperance in the use of food, fruit, and wholesome beverage ; with care against exposure to the mid-day rays of the sun ; with moderate exercise of body and mind, together with other cautions which common prudence will suggest to every reflecting mind — the climate is by no means so insa- lubrious, nor is the heat so oppressive, as is generally supposed, being more charac- terized by its duration than its intensity. The reported unhealthiness of the climate has arisen, in a great measure, from the frequent and excessive mortality of the troops — for obvious causes a very unfair criterion by which to judge. Nor is it to be estimated by its past influence on Euro- pean life in general, as it would probably appear, on investigation, that the mortality has been in most cases occasioned by in- temperance or imprudence.* * Mr. Long remarks, with consid'>rab!e ndiveti, and not a little truth, that "The European keeps late hours at night ; lounges a-bed in the morning; gor- mandizes at dinner on loads of flesh, fish, and fruits; loves roijrnant sauces ; dilutes with ale, porter, punch, claret, and Madeira, frequently jumbling all together; and continues this mode of living, till by constantly manuring his stomach with such an heterogeneous compost, he has laid the foundation for a plentiful crop of ailments. JNot that this portrait serves for all of them: there are many who act on a more rational plan ; though almost all transgress in some point or other. They who have attained to the greatest age here were always early risers, temperate livers in general, inured to moderate exercise, and avoiders of excess in eating." In the mountainous regions it will pro- bably vie in point of salubrity with that of any tropical climate in the world ; an opinion sustained by Dr. Adolphus, Her Majesty's late inspector-general of hospi- tals in Jamaica, and by Sir James Clark, Her Majesty's physician : the one from personal experience and observation, the other in his work on the sanitive influence of climate. Sir James Clark recommends it as a safe temporary retreat* to invalids in the early stages of consumption. The principal disease to which Europeans are here subject are fevers and dysentery, both of which might be considerably alleviated, if not in some instances avoided, by timely precaution. The author has personally known several persons, both white, colour- ed, and black, who have attained the age of from one hundred to one hundred and forty years. On these accounts, and for reasons relating to temporal circumstances, there is perhaps no part of the world to which European farmers, with small capi- tal and large families, could so advantage- ously emigrate. The following precau- tions, by the Rev. M. Hough, B.A., for- merly a missionary in the East Indies, with a few alterations, may be rendered applicable to the West. " I have said that life is often endanger- ed by imprudence as well as other causes. This suggests a few observations that may be useful to future missionaries. Many good men, by inattention to their health and heedless exposure to the sun, have in- capacitated themselves for labour almost as soon as they have arrived. A mis- sionary may not immediately feel any in- convenience from the heat, but he should not too readily calculate upon exemption from its usual influence upon the European constitution. The power of a vertical sun * Sir James, in speaking of the climate of Jamaica, sa y S . — "The temperature of the mountainous dis- tricts, averages, from January to April, in the early morning, 55 degrees ; in the afternoon, 70. From April to June, 60 ; in the afternoon, 75. From June to September, 65 ; in the afternoon, 80. From Sep- tember to December, 68 ; in the afternoon, 75. This may be considered the mean temperature of a series of years." (P. 313.)— He adds — "Convalescents from other parts of the island often derive considerable benefit from a residence of a few weeks only in this region. It is also a safe temporary retreat for con- sumptive as well as other invalids. Lucea, also, has a high reputation for salubrity among the inhabitants, and is often resorted to by convalescents. The cli- mate is cool and pleasant, except during the months of July, August, and September." (P. 314.) 36 JAMAICA: is indescribable, and very few persons in- deed are able with impunity to expose themselves to its fervid rays. A mis- sionary should never go out uncovered during the day. In moving about among the schools and other objects requiring his attention in the immediate vicinity of his home, he ought always to hold an umbrella over his head; and when his duties call him to any distance, he should go if possi- ble in a covered vehicle. To walk a mile in a tropical sun, ivith the heat reflected upon you from the ground, and burning your feet as well as scorching you from above, will generally exhaust the powers of the body, and consequently depress the energies of the mind to such a degree as to render you incapable of attending to the duty you went to perform. " In tropical climates regularity is the grand secret of health. Regularity in every- thing — in exercise, rest, food, and study. In most European constitutions the sto- mach soon becomes deranged by the ex- cessive heat and change of diet ; but its health is most likely to be preserved by a careful attention to the wholesome quality of food, by moderation in the quantity, and regularity in the hours of repast. In his native land a healthy person may despise such precautions, finding them to be unne- cessary ; but to neglect them in hot coun- tries will soon prove fatal to the constitu- tion. " Exercise should be taken in the cool of the day, before sun-rise, and about sun- set. The morning is greatly to be pre- ferred, as the air is then fresh and the ground cool from the dew; whereas in the evening, both are often too much heated to refresh you. In order, therefore, to pre- serve your health, and keep yourself fresh and active for your important work, you should always be out at day-break, and home again if possible before the sun has been up half an hour. I have frequently felt exposure to the sun for the first half- hour of the day deprive me of the refresh- ment received from the previous exercise. Journeys should always be performed early in the morning or towards the decline of the day. To enable you to rise at an early hour you should retire early to rest, other- wise you may suffer as much inconve- nience from the want of sufficient sleep as from any other cause. "The degree and description of exercise to be taken must be regulated by every in- dividual's constitution; in general, gentle exercise is most conducive to the preserva- tion of health. It is of great importance to attend to the first symptoms of indispo- sition. A slight headache might be at- tended with fatal consequences if neglect- ed, as it would generally arise from some obstruction of the system." Let not these hints be thought irrelevant to our present design. The necessity of attending to his health cannot be too for- cibly impressed on a missionary's mind, and cannot be more appropriately given than in a missionary work. Storms and Hurricanes* are less fre- quent in Jamaica than in Barbadoes and some of the other Caribbean islands, or even than they were in Jamaica formerly. They, however, occasionally occur, carry- ing devastation and misery in their train. To one of these awful visitations of the Almighty, although by no means so terri- ble and destructive as those which occurred in 1786 and 1815, the author was an eye- witness. It began its desolating course in the middle of the night, and, with the ex- ception of a few short intervals, during which it seemed to be gathering fresh energy in order to renew its assaults with greater violence, continued until nearly the middle of the following day. It was preceded by an awful stillness oc- casionally broken by an indistinct sound resembling the roaring of a cataract, or the blowing of winds through a forest, by an intermission of the diurnal breeze, — by an almost insupportable heat, the ther- mometer standing at between 95° and 100° of Fahrenheit, — by vast accumulations of vapour moving in the direction of the mountains, — by flocks of sea-gulls, — by a deep portentous gloom gradually increas- ing and overspreading the hemisphere, — by all the omens, indeed, which are said to be their precursors. From three o'clock until nearly the break of day, the lightning was terrific beyond description ; illuminat- ing the whole concave of heaven, and dart- ing apparently in ten thousand fantastic forms, whilst the reverberations of the thunder, echoed back by the distant moun- * Hurricanes are so called from the Indian word hurrica. They are violent tempests of wind, which generally happen a day or two before the full or new- moon nest the autumnal equinox in August and Sep- tember. ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 37 tains, seemed to shake the pillars of the earth, as if commissioned to seal the doom of the world- The rain descended in tor- rents, and an awful, deep, and compact gloom overshadowed the face of nature. The morning of the deluge could scarcely have presented an aspect more dismal. It was a period of fearful suspense and terror. The wind began to blow from the north, but on attaining the acme of its violence, it blew from all parts of the compass, and carried ruin on its wings. In every direc- tion were dismantled houses, shattered fences, uprooted trees, and the ground strewed with shingles, splinters, branches of trees, fruit, and leaves. The writer's garden was a wilderness, and his dwelling house shook to its foundation. Every habi- tation around was closed, every crevice filled up, and every tenant in total dark- ness. All business was of course suspend- ed, and not an individual to be seen but at intervals, when one cautiously appeared to acquaint himself with his situation, and to view the desolation around. Nothing was to be seen or heard but the pelting of the storm and the continued sighs of elemental tumult. " Venti vis Interdum rapido percurrens turbini compos Arboribus magno sternit montesque supremo, Silvefragis vetat flabris."* Lucretius, lib. i., 1272. The last earthquake in Jamaica was that of 1692, which engulfed Port Royal; shocks, however, are of very common oc- currence, some of such severity as to ex- cite considerable alarm and occasion serious injury. One of the most appalling that has occurred for many years was experienced in the month of February last, which, in conjunction with the unexpected appear- ance of a comet and the dreadful calamity, in which these awful dispensations of Di- vine Providence have lately involved seve- ral of the windward islands, has created an alarm which it is hoped will operate bene- ficially upon society at large. * " Oft through the ravaged plain The sudden whirlwind sweeps the furious sale, C'erthrows majestic trees, and with strong blasts, Vexes the lofty mountains." CHAPTER VI. POPULATION. Census of the different Parishes, Stock, Land in Cul- tivation, Agriculture, Horticulture — Improvements, Implements, Machinery — Present defective State of Husbandry — Thoughts on Immigration. The number of aboriginal inhabitants on the first possession of the island by the Spaniards has been variously estimated. According to some writers they amounted to several hundred thousand ; according to others from sixty thousand to one hundred thousand. But to the everlasting infamy of the Spanish name, it is recorded that the whole of this immense mass of human beings vvas entirely exterminated within fifty years of their subjection to their law- less invaders. As previously stated, the first Spanish colony was established by Don Juan d'Esquimel, under the authority of Diego Columbus, and consisted of seven- ty persons. At successive periods this number was increased, although subject to frequent variations, so that on the conquest of the island by Penn and Venables, the Spanish and Portuguese amounted to 1500, with an equal number of negroes and mulatto slaves. Under the British the population rapidly increased, exhibiting in the short space of seven years a total of 2600 men, 645 women, 408 children, and 552 negroes, with 2917 acres of land un- der cultivation. Owing to the unsettled state of affairs in the mother country during the period of the Commonwealth and the early years of the Restoration, the tide of immigration was very considerable. The total number of slaves imported to Jamaica since the conquest of the island to the abolition of the slave trade in 1805 was 850,000, and this, added to 40,000 brought by the Spaniards, makes an aggregate of 890,000, exclusive of all births since that period. Immediately after the abolition of the slave trade, the slave population varied from 300,939 to 322,421.* To the great dis- * According to the return of the Compensation Commissioners in July, 1835, the number of slaves for which compensation was given was 311,692. Of these about 30,000 were children under six years of age, and-of the remainder a little more than one-firth were non-progdials. The free coloured and black people were estimated at 40,000. Estimating these at 44Z. 15s. 2^1 on an average gave 6,161,927/. to Ja- maica, as its share of the 2O,000,O00Z. compensation, being one-thi'd of the total amount. 38 JAMAICA : credit of the public authorities, no accurate census of the island has been taken for many years, and thus no correct statement can be made respecting it at the present time. It is, however, generally supposed that the aggregate population, including 30,000 whites, is now half a million, which is about seventy persons to a square mile. This proportion is small compared with that in other parts of the world, and even with Barbadoes, where there are 600 to a square mile; so great, however, is the an- nual increase of population, as to encou- rage the hope that in a few years it will be more than double. Even at the present time it is fully equal to the demand made upon it for agricultural purposes as well as to the means of its equitable requital. The slock required for agriculture and domestic purposes are oxen, horses, mules, sheep, goals, hogs, poultry, and several European domestic animals. Oxen and mules are almost exclusively used in agri- culture, and are generally equal in size and strength to those of Europe. Horses, except by small settlers and draymen or carriers, are principally used for the sad- dle or drawing gigs and other light con- veyances. Mules* are of great value to * Although this animal, like the species in other parts of the world, is often vicious and untractable, it generally finds its match in the ingenuity and adroit- ness of its negro rider. The following occurrence, with some slight alterations, is related by the captain of a merchant-vessel : — " The negro boys are the most cunning urchins I have ever had to do with. While my vessel was lying at St. Anne's Bay, Jamai- ca, T had to go to Port Maria to look for some cargo ; and on my way thither, near Oracabessa, I came to one of the numerous small rivers that empty them- selves into the little bays along the coast. When at some distance, I observed a negro boy flogging his mule most severely, but before I got up, he had dis- mounted and appeared in earnest talk with his beast, which, with fore-legs stretched out firm, and ears laid down, seemed proof against all arguments to induce him to enter the water. Quashie was all animation, and his eyes flashed like fire-flies. ' Who-o ! you no go ober ; bery well — me bet you fippenny me make you go. No? Why for you no bet? Why for you no go ober V Here the mule shook his ears to drive away the flies, which almost devour the poor animals in that climate. ' Oh ! you do bet — bery well ; den me try.' " The young rogue (he was not more than ten years old) disappeared in the bush, and returned in a few seconds with some strips of fanweed, a few small pebbles, and a branch of the cactus plant. To put three or four pebbles in each of the mule's ears, and tie them up with the fanweed, was but the work of a minute. He then jumped on the animal's back, turned round, put the plant to the animal's tail, and off they went, as a negro himself would say — 'Like mad, Massa!' Into the water they plunged — the lit- tle fellow grinning and showing his teeth in perfect ecstacy. Out they got on the other side ; head and ears down — tail and heels up — and the boy's arms the planter, being much more capable of continuous labour than the other beasts of burthen, less choice in their food, and less subject to the casualties of disease. They are imported from England, America, and the Spanish Main, as are also horses, horn- ed cattle, and sheep. Considerable num- bers, however, of all descriptions are rear- ed in the colony. The price of a steer for agricultural purposes is about 13/. ($63), and of one fattened for the market from 9/. to 10/. ($44 to $48) and upwards. Beef is from 6d. to Id. per lb. (12 to 14 cents) ; veal at Is. (25 cents). Horses, according to their size and breed, may be had at prices varying from 12/. to 100/. ($55 to $450), and mules from 15/. to 50/. ($65 to $220) and upwards. Sheep have a degenerated appearance compared with those of England, but their flesh is savoury. When well managed they are very prolific, and, consequently, a considerable source of profit to the gra- zier — 30s. is the usual price of a lull- grown wether, and the mutton is retailed at Is. 3d. per lb. Goats and hogs are also abundant : the former are kept chiefly for their milk. Pork is of a very superior fla- vour, and is sold at l\d. per lb. Rabbits thrive in hutches, but are seldom raised in sufficient numbers for the market. The price of a full-grown turkey is from 12s. to 16s. ($3 to $4); a goose from 10s. to 12s. ($3 to $4); a Muscovy duck, 5s. ($1 25); a common fowl, 2s. 6d. (62$ cents) ; a Guinea fowl, 4s. ($1) ; pigeons, 2s. (50 cents) per pair; eggs, Is. 6c/ (31 cents) per dozen.* Of dogs, the real Spa- nish blood-hound, and those of the various European and Spanish breeds, ace a usual moving about as if he was flying ; and I lost sight of him as he went over a rocky steep at full gallop, where one false step would have precipitated thein into the sea beneath, from whence there would have been but small chance of escape. A butcher's boy is nothing to a negro boy in these exploits. " About two hours afterwards 1 reached Fort Ma- ria. There I saw, in an open space near one of the stores, standing, or rather leaning against the wall, Quashie, eating cakes; and there also stood the mule, eating Guinea grass, and looking much more cheerful than when I first saw him at the river side. ' Well, Quashie,'] said, 'you have got here, 1 see; but which of you won V ' Quashie win, Massa — Quashie never lose.' ' But will he pay?' 1 inquired. ' Quashie pay himself, Massa. You see, Massa Buccra, massa gib Quashie tenpenny bit lor grass for mule : Quashie bet fippenny him make him go ober de river. Quashie win. Quashie heb fippenny for cake — mule heb fip- penny lor grass.' " *The prices were formerly much higher. ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 39 appendage to almost every domestic esta- blishment, both of the higher and lower classes. Numerous as these animals are, however, throughout the island, cases of hydrophobia seldom or ever occur. Cats are also common, but are not in such uni- versal favour as the dog. By the last authenticated returns, the number of stock, consisting of horses and cattle, was 166,286, with 2,235,733 acres of land in cultivation. The whole island, comprising 6400 sq. miles, presents an entire surface of 4,080,- 000 acres; thus leaving nearly 2,000,000 of acres uncultivated. A considerable por- tion of the latter is situated in the inacces- sible regions of the mountains. There are however, thousands of acres in every re- spect available for cultivation, and which are being rapidly cleared for this purpose by the peasantry. The principal properties on the island of an agricultural kind are sugar and coffee plantations, together with pens or farms for raising stock. A sugar-estate is usu- ally situated in a rich plain or valley, at a convenient distance from the sea ; the cof- fee-plantation in the mountains of the inte- rior; and the pen in a location on the high- lands or on the plains, most convenient for pasturage. A first-class sugar-estate usually con- sists of a large mansion occupied by the proprietor or attorney, and one or two somewhat inferior residences for the over- seer and subordinate agents. Contiguous to these are the works — consisting of the windmill, the boiling-house, the curing- house, and the distillery. Various out- offices, mechanics' shops, the hospital, and the negro-village at a little distance, com- plete the establishment. Sugar estates vary in their extent and value according to circumstances, as with farms in England. An estate (says Stewart, in 1823) pro- ducing 200 hogsheads of sugar, averaging 16 cwt., may be thus valued: — 500 acres of land, at 201. per acre on an average £10,000 (Of which 150 acres, if the land be good, is sufficient for canes, the rest being in grass and provisions.) 200 slaves, averaging 100/. each - - 20,000 140 horned stock and 50 mules - - 5,000 Buildings and utensils - - - - 8,000 Or £25,000 sterling, £43,000 Such an estate would now be sold pro- bably for the same amount, independently of the labourers. In some cases as many as 500 hands were considered necessary to cultivate 500 acres of land. It might be accomplished by half the number. The cane-fields and pastures on all well- managed properties are enclosed by stone walls, or by fences composed separately of logwood, lime, lemon, or the maranga-tree, or by these shrubs and trees intermixed. The extent of a cane-field or pasture is from ten to twenty acres. The fences are [Cutting Sugar-Cane.] 40 JAMAICA usually trimmed to the height of about four feet, and are as impervious as the haw- thorn in England, to which, indeed, the logwood bears a great resemblance. In the orange and lime fences a tree is some- times allowed at regular intervals to attain its natural growth, which thus answers the double purpose of use and ornament. In some localities the penguin, a kind of wild pine-apple, and various species of the cac- tus, together with bamboo and other rails, are used for these intersections. The incipient agricultural operations of an estate consist in clearing the land, open- ing it up in trenches, and holing it for the reception of the young plants — all which is usually performed by manual labour. The time for planting and reaping varies with the seasons and with the climate in different localities. The spring plants, however, are usually put in in February, and arrive at perfection in the following December or January. After being cut down, the canes, which are tied in bun- dles, are conveyed to the mill in carts drawn by oxen, or, from fields inaccessible to such conveyances, on the backs of don- keys and mules. The juice of the cane is expressed by two perpendicular rollers or iron cylinders, propelled by steam or cat- tle, and flows into the boiling-house, where it is manufactured into sugar. The scum and dross occurring in this process (which, contrary to the received opinion in this country, is a remarkably clean one,) toge- ther with the molasses, are passed into the distilling-house, and converted into rum : 300 gallons of which are produced from every acre of land yielding 3 hhds. of su- gar. These processes being ended, atten- tion is immediately turned to the necessary preparations for the ensuing crop, and the general operations of the estate. Almost the only implements of husban- dry in common use are the hoe, the bill, the cutlass, and the axe. The hoe is chiefly used for digging cane-holes, trenching, ditching, and weeding ;* the bill and the cutlass for cutting canes, denuding pastures of underwood and superfluous herbage, and also, in conjunction with the axe, in clearing forest lands for cultivation. Ma- nure is conveyed to the field on the heads * The hoe was first introduced in the cultivation of the West Indian islands to clear the land from roots, as the plough and the spade could not then be used. [Hoe and Bill for Sugar Cultivation.] of labourers in baskets or trays filled by the hoe : exhibiting, in these respects, no improvement on the rude usages of our Saxon forefathers. As yet chemistry has been but imperfectly applied to the purpose of ascertaining the peculiar properties of soils. Nor is the science of agriculture either generally understood or applied to any practical use. Little is done in the way of drainage, alternate crops, artificial grasses, or manuring. Soils are usually wrought until exhaust- ed ; after which they lie fallow for several years ; thus rendering it necessary succes- sively to redeem tracts from the forest to supply the deficiency created, and which can only be effected at a great expense of time and labour. The soil best adapted for the growth of coffee is a deep brown loam. Intervals of about six feet are left between the plants, which are frequently and carefully clean- ed. The berries ripen and are gathered between the months of October and Ja- nuary. After having undergone the process of pulping, it is dried on terraces called bar- . becues, and is then fit for local use or exportation. The pimento or alspice plantations, which are usually connected with those of coffee, sometimes yield two crops a year. The principal season for gathering it is from August to October. " It is broken in" in its green or unripe state, and dried like the coffee. Particulars respecting the mode of cul- ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 41 tivating and preparing ginger, arrow-root, and other articles of export, cannot be de- tailed. Pens resemble the breeding and grazing farms of Great Britain. In all these processes the same disregard to improvement is -manifest. It is calcu- lated that in planting canes, a pair of horses and a plough will do the work of thirty-five men. " The farmer may form some idea of the waste of labour in the West Indies," says an intelligent Ameri- can traveller,* " by supposing his lands to be all cultivated with Indian corn, and no agricultural implements allowed him ex- cept a mule, a pack-saddle, a wooden tray, and a stub hoe." By a thorough reformation of the pre- sent vicious and defective system of do- mestic economy — by an improved system of manuring and cultivation — returns of produce might be successively drawn from a more compact surface of soil ip the im- mediate vicinity of the plantation works. A steam-engine saves the labour of four able hands per diem during five months of the year, besides ensuring a better quality of sugar, and the substitution of animal labour and machinery, as far as practica- ble, would reduce the number of effective hands on an estate to nearly half the num- ber required under the present system. Tt is gratifying, however, to add, that within the last few years some important im- provements have been introduced, which are chiefly to be attributed to the Agricul- tural Societies, originated by C. N. Palmer, Esq., in the year 1834, first patronized by his excellency, the Marquis of Sligo, and now become general. The plough, the steam-engine, the coffee- pulper, a machine for clearing and weed- ing canes, with other instruments of a simi- lar kind, are now being gradually intro- duced. The breed of plantation-stock is considerably improved; — companies have been formed for supplying the towns of Spanish Town and Kingston with water, — for working a copper-mine, and for the production of silk ; and a taste has been imparted for progressive scientific improve- ment, which, it is hoped, will establish the prosperity of the colony on a broad and substantial foundation. Much, however, as has been already ac- Dr. Hovey. complished, very much more still remains to be done. The resources of the country are not at present more than half deve- loped. Its variety of soil and climate is adapted to the cultivation of almost every article that is grown within the tropics and the milder regions of the temperate zone ; whilst its resources of raw material for manufactures of almost all kinds, and which are almost innumerable, may be said to be entirely unemployed, except for local purposes by the peasantry. The old me- thods of cultivation are the rule — the im- provements the exception. The hoe, the cutlass, and the tray,* and others of equal antiquity, still usurp the place of the plough and spade, the muck-fork, the wheel-bar- row, and the tumbril : whilst the practical knowledge of the last century is still re- garded by many as superior to the expe- rience and science of the present day. The price of agricultural labour, com- pared with that of former years, is consi- derably diminished. The amount paid for hoeing an acre of land for canes by a job- bing gang in 1823, was from 51. to ll.i the price now paid is 21. 10s. The rate of wages for jobbers per day was from 2s. to 3s : it is now from Is. to Is. 6d. Stone walls for enclosures, which formerly cost 51. per chain, are now built for 1/. 2s. per chain. And this scale of reduction is ap- plicable to manual labour of almost every kind. Under all these circumstances, it is presumed that the necessity for an increase of our rural population by immigration is questionable, as the diminution of manual labour which these proposed changes would effect would more than compensate for any supposed deficiency of effective hands. All disinterested and philanthropic men, both in Jamaica and elsewhere, concur in the opi- nion that the present immigration scheme is not only unnecessary, but injurious, im- politic, inefficient, and useless ; injurious, from its likelihood to interrupt the progress of civilization ; impolitic, as furnishing a pretext for the continuance or renewal of the slave trade; and altogether inefficient in securing the reduction of wasres or the * "A gentleman purchased a lot of wheelbarrows, with the intention of having the negroes use them instead of trays, in carrying out manure; but they not taking a fancy to the rolling part, loaded them, and mounted the whole on their heads. It is, how- ever, scarcely necessary to remark how rapidly this prejudice will vanish with the progress of intelligence and enterprise." 42 JAMAICA: supplies desired : thus occasioning a useless expenditure of the public money, and a defection among the native peasantry, which may involve consequences of a most serious character. With the various agri- cultural and other improvements suggested, greater facilities of conveyance, a less Tavisti expenditure of the public money, diminished taxation, an improved system of domestic economy, connected with a leasing out of estates to the present mana- ger as a remedy for absenteeism, the pros- perity of Jamaica may be more substan- tially and permanently secured than by any other schemes that may be devised. The following is a calculation lately made by his excellency, the Earl of Elgin, while at Shortwood, the estate of Joseph Gordon, Esq. : £ s. d. Cane-hole moulding according to old system 4 Planting First cleaning Second do. Third do. Fourth do. 12 12 12 8 8 6 12 NEW SYSTEM.* Ploughing one acre — wages of plough- men and boys . . . .56 Planting 12 0' First harrowing one acre, half day — wages for one man driving two steers in tandem, or one horse 2 First moulding do., half day, with a double mould plough, 2s. for the ploughman, and 9d. lor the boy 2 9 Second moulding and third do., 2s. each . . . . . .40 Seven days' feeding, horses or cattle, at 2s. Gd. per day . . . . 17 6-2 3 9 Gain .483 Allowing that, according to the old system, the rattcons took three cleanings, includ- ing moulding and thrashing, at 12s. per acre , . . . . . . . 1 16 ON THE NEW SYSTEM. Three do. at 3s„ exclusive of stock and imple- ments 9 Effecting a saving of . .17 The observations here made with re- spect to the defective state of common hus- bandry, will apply in an equal, or even in * On the Cost of Slave and Free Labour. — A report has been made 'From the Select Committee of the House of Commons on the Commercial Stale of the West Indian Colonies, July, 1842.' Without making any remark respecting the report generally, we now confine ourselves entirely to that part which relates to the cost of production of sugar, as given by the Committee — a greater degree, to horticulture. Horti- culture, indeed, has been wholly disregard- ed, except by a few individuals, who have formed themselves into a society in Kings-' ton ; and missionaries, who have endea- voured to give an impulse to these pursuits among the peasantry of the new townships. Hence, with the exception of the neigh- bourhood of the towns on the soiith side of the island, very few European vegetables are produced, although in all the highlands of the country they would flourish in the greatest abundance, and attain the highest perfection. Adorned, as is this lovely island, with every thing calculated to woo the embel- lishments of art, there is perhaps no spot on the surface of the globe, inhabited by civilized men, where the beauties of nature have been lavished so entirely in vain. Millions of flowers and shrubs, displaying hues and tints which mock all the efforts of the pencil, still remain detached and scattered, forgotten and unknown. No ex- tensive public gardens or pleasure-grounds are here found inviting healthful recreation, and displaying their sylvan beauties to the eye; no walks, shaded and adorned by aromatic trees and shrubs, to tempt the se- "The average cost of production of a hundred weight in the British West Indies, is (with- out any charge of interest or capital) . .15 8 The expense of bringing it to market in Great Britain is 8 6 Making altogether 24 2 The average price of 1831 is . . . . 23 8 Leaving a deficiency of 6 " By this statement it appears that slave labour was cheaper by 6d. per hundred weight than free labour. If in this early stage of the working of emancipation the cost of production has been such a trifle more than during the days of slavery, what may not be ex- pected, by the introduction of a better system of ma- nagement, by the aid of machinery and other im- provements by which it may be considerably reduced ? "But, if we understand the statement aright, free labour is already cheaper than slave labour. In the cost of production, no charge of interest or capital is made. Now, it is a well-known fact, that a much larger amount of capital was required in the days of slavery than under the present system. There wa,s the purchase-money for the slaves. Say that an estate had 200 slaves located upon it, the capital withdrawn amounts to 5000Z., reckoning only at 25Z. per head, being a saving of 250Z. per annum, at 5 per cent, interest; say that 180 hogsheads of sugar are produced of a ton weight each, this 250Z. saved will reduce the cost rather more than Is. 4d per hun- dred weight; instead, therefore, of there being an ad- vantage of 6d. per cent, under slavery, there is ac- tually a saving of lOd. per cent by free labour in the British West India colonies." — Jamaica Baptist He- rald. ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 43 dentary citizen and his captive family be- yond the precincts of their domicile: yet in such a climate few things seem more necessary or desirable ; while from the profusion of vegetable life which every where abounds, it would be comparatively easy of accomplishment. Such an append- age to Kingston and Spanish Town, espe- cially, is a desideratum — and its cost, com- pared with the immense sums lavished on less becoming recreations, would be incon- siderable. A large botanic garden was established several years ago in the village of Bath. It was successively enriched with produc- tions from the islands of the Pacific and Indian Oceans — from Mauritius and the continent of India — presented by Lord Rodney, Captain Bligh, and others, and which promised very considerable advan- tages to the colony ; but, in accordance with that want of taste and public spirit, or as the effect of that apathy or avarice, which then characterized the leading men of the colony, it was finally abandoned, the legislature discontinuing the means for its progressive cultivation. As previously stated, no class of emi- grants is so well suited to Jamaica as far- mers with small capital. Such might most advantageously settle in the moun- tain districts. This would necessarily lead to improvements in practical agriculture, and thus not only facilitate the develope- ment of the resources of the country, but add much to its social happiness and pros- perity. CHAPTER VII. GOVERNMENT. Council, House of Assembly, Courts of Law, Laws, Public Offices — Ecclesiastical Establishments — Naval and Military ditto— Taxes, Revenue. The Government of Jamaica is formed after the model of that of the Parent State, with such variations as the nature of the country is thought to require. It con- sists of a Governor, Council, and Assem- bly, or House of Representatives. The Governor is appointed by the Crown, — has the title of Excellency, — is Commander-in- Chief of the Forces, — Vice-admiral, &c; — is invested with the chief civil authority, and, under particular circumstances, can appoint pro. tern, a successor. The Coun- cil, Which is similar to the House of Lords or the Privy Council in England, is also appointed by the Sovereign at the recom- mendation of the Governor, through the Secretary of State for the Colonies. The Assembly, which resembles the House of Commons, is chosen by a small portion of the people, and enjoys all the privileges of the House of Commons in England. The Governor, the Chief Justice, the Attorney-General, the Bishop, the Com- mander of the Forces, and the Chancellor, are all members of the Council ex officio, and the others are selected from the most respectable and opulent of the inhabitants. They are twelve in number, and are ad- dressed by the title of Honourable. The Assembly consists of 47 members, being two representatives to each parish, and an additional one to the towns of Spanish Town, Kingston, and Port Royal. Its duration is seven years. The qualifica- tion of a representative is the possession of a freehold of 300Z. per annum in any part of the island, or a real and personal estate of 3000/. An elector must possess a free- hold estate in the parish in which he votes of the value of 61. sterling, or at a rent- charge of 30/. sterling, recorded in the island secretary's office for twelve calen- dar months, and the right of voting there- on entered in the parish books, in the office of the clerk of the vestry, or clerk of the common council, six calendar months. He must be twenty-one years of age; and actually pay taxes to the amount of SI. sterling per annum. His specific place of abode must be also registered. He must make oath as to his actual possession of the property ; — present a rent-receipt from his landlord, and pay his taxes up to the term of his claiming to vote, and in con- tinuity afterwards, as a condition of his continued privilege. The Supreme Court, in the extent of its jurisdiction resembles those of the Courts of King's Bench, Common Pleas, and Ex- chequer, in the Mother Country. Its sit- tings are held in St. Jago de fa Vega, or Spanish Town, the capital, three times a year, commencing in the months of Feb- ruary, June and October, and continued through three successive weeks. The Chief Justice is nominated bv the Government of 44 JAMAICA: England. He was formerly assisted by eight or ten colleagues, appointed by the King in council, at the recommendation of the Governor, each of whom received a salary of 300/. sterling per annum, and who sat on the bench in rotation. By a recent law this arrangement is superseded, and his Honour the Chief Justice, Sir Joshua Rowe, is now associated with two duly qualified assistants, the Honourables W. C. M'Dougal and W. Stevenson. They hold their offices at the pleasure of the Queen in council, and have each a patent of office under the great seal of the island, as is the case with the Judges and princi- pal officers of all the other courts, who are removable only by the sanction of the Queen in council. Their salaries are paid by the island, and are as follow : — The Chief Justice, 4000/. per annum, and each of his associates about 2000/. The whole annual cost for the Judicial Establishment is 23,476/. The sum of 7000/. was given as retirement douceurs to the former legal authorities. The other officers attached to the court are Dowell O'Reilly, Esq., the Attorney-General, Clerk of the Crown, Clerk of the Court, Solicitor for the Crown, Island Secretar} r , Provost Marshal or High Sheriff of the Island, with about twelve or fourteen barristers. The Assize Courts have jurisdiction only in each county respectively, and have the same power and authority that the Justices of Assize and Nisi Prius, Justices of Oyer and Terminer, and Justices of Gaol De- livery, have in England. The Courts of Quarter Sessions are con- ducted similarly to those of this country, and are presided over by chairmen, lately appointed by the Home Government, as- sisted by local and stipendiary magistrates. Formerly local magistrates presided over these courts, who often decided cases in which they were personally concerned. The Courts of Common Pleas are held once in three months or oftener, and have jurisdiction over all causes wherein any freehold is not concerned, to the value of 20/. with costs, and no more, but by the aid of a justicias from the Chancellor. The appeal against the decision of these courts lies to the Supreme Court of Judi- cature. They were formerly presided over by local magistrates, subsequently by sti- pendiary and local magistrates associated, but now by a chairman of Quarter Ses- sions, assisted by stipendiary and local magistrates.* The Quarter Session takes cognizance of all manner of debts, tres- passes, &c, not exceeding the value of 40s. Until recently the Court of Chancery was presided over by the Governor, who possessed the same powers as those with which the Lord High Chancellor of Eng- land is invested. The functions of Chan- cellor are dissociated from those of Go- vernor, and a duly qualified individual sustains the office. Court of Error. — This is a court in which appeals are heard by the Governor in council from the Supreme and Assize Courts in the form of writs of error, and which are allowed and regulated by Her Majesty's instructions to the Governor. The Court of Vice-Admiralty decides all maritime causes, and adjudges prizes to claimants. It is a miniature representa- tion of the Vice-Admiralty Court in Eng- land. The Court of Ordinary is for determin- ing all ecclesiastical matters. It is pre- sided over by the Governor, as the repre- sentative of the Sovereign and the nominal head of the Church, who in that capacity inducts into the vacant rectories. The Bishop of London was formerly the dioce- san of Jamaica and of all the West Indian colonies ; but a bishop was appointed spe- cially for the island, including the Bahamas and Honduras, in 1825, with a salary of 4000/. per annum, and an archdeacon with a salary of 2000/. from the home govern- ment. The crown livings were in the gift of the Governor, in virtue of his station as such, but are now in that of the bishop. The clergy are paid partly by a stipend and partly by fees. Of late years the average annual expen- diture of Jamaica for her ecclesiastical establishment has been upwards of30,000/., and which is paid out of the public taxes. The rectors' stipends were estimated by Mr. Bridges, in the year 1835, at 8820/. ; the curates' salaries at 10,550/.; the ag- gregate vestry allowances, 3430/. ; and the average sum drawn from the inhabitants * The stipendiary magistrates are appointed and paid by the Home Government, and'are removable only through the Secretary of State for the Colonies. Richard Hill, Esq., a gentleman of colour, is the Secretary of the Special Justices' Department, and is an honour to the Government of the country. ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 45 for surplice fees, at 5372/., independently of the annual expenditure in maintaining thirty-nine churches and chapels. By re- cent acts of the legislature the fees have been abolished and an annual sum granted instead, which has greatly increased the salaries of the rectors, so that, including grants of money for chapel and school- house building, the expenditure for ecclesi- astical purposes has been increased from 30,000/. to nearly 80,000/. per annum, thus imposing a most unjust and oppressive burden upon the dissenters, who constitute more than half the population of the island. These statements are supported by the following facts : — The Clergy Act, passed December 1840, expressly enacts that no charge be made by clergymen of the Church of England for marriages, christen- ings, and burials, but that they receive in lieu thereof, out of the public treasury, the following sums per annum, viz : — The Rector of Kingston .£600 " " of St. Catherine - 400 " " of St. James 400 " ■' of St. Andrew - 300 With 17 others at 2001. each 3400 Total £5100 Thus the salaries of rectors are supposed to vary from 1500/. to 2000/. per annum each. In the year 1842 there was ex- pended in one parish (Trelawney) for church purposes, including schoolmasters and subordinate church officers, 7,000/. sterling, or 35,000 dollars: about 4s. 2c/., or one dollar per annum for every man, woman, and child within its boundaries. The sum of six hundred pounds was also voted to paupers belonging to the same establishment. The total paid for the church by the island in the year 1841 amounted to 65,919/. 18s. fid., in addition to the 11,000/. by the Bri- ish Government and societies for the pro- pagation of the Gospel in foreign parts, >r, as estimated by the Commissioners of ^ublic Accounts, 77,519/. " There are no tithes in Jamaica," says Mr. Candler,* writing in 1840 ; " a land- ■;ax was imposed in lieu of tithes, and the Church of England clergy are paid their stipends out of the island chest. The fiverage receipts of the rectors are, I under- * Mr. John Candler, of the Society of Friends, per- formed a tour of Jamaica and Hayti in the year 1840, and published some valuable information on the state and prospects of these islands. stand, about 1000/. sterling per annum, and of the curates about 400/. These stipends, with the salary of the bishop and archdeacon, and other ecclesiastical de- mands for new churches and chapels, school-rooms, and national schools, swal- low up about 50,000/. per annum, or one- eighth of the whole revenue of Jamaica ; and from the disposition recently mani- fested by the House of Assembly to gratify the bishop and church, this sum seems likely, if not checked by the people, to go on increasing." There is no Bankruptcy Law in Jamaica, but an Insolvent Debtors' Act instead, which is considered very arbitrary in its requirements. As a security against fraud, the law, until a very recent period, when it was abrogated, required that every person in- tending to leave the island should publish his name for three weeks in the news- papers, and obtain a certificate from the Governor, without which any captain of a vessel with whom he might sail would be liable to a very heavy penalty. Though the constitution of the island is similar to that of England, and the legis- lature enacts its own laws, these laws are subject to the confirmation or disallowance of her Majesty in council ; and while some go into immediate operation on the assent of the Governor on behalf of the Queen, others of a more particular and important kind are passed with a suspending clause, and are not carried into effect until her Majesty's pleasure is known. At the same time the sovereign has the prerogative of disallowing any colonial Act which she has not previously confirmed at any period, however remote. As with all the British colonies, the island is dependent on the Crown and Parliament of Great Britain, who have full power to control it in alt cases whatsoever. Although the common law of England is here in force, it is not so generally with the statute laws. Nor can the latter become laws of Jamaica, un- less recognised by the local legislature. It is well known that the consolidated Slave Act existed as a distinct code, and had reference to slavery and its relations alone. Colonial enactments now relate to those regulations of local policy which are thought necessary to the altered state of things, and to which it is supposed that the statute laws of England are inapplicable. 46 JAMAICA It must be obvious that the entire system of British law is as applicable to the go- vernment of the colonies as to that of the parent state ; and its adoption in Jamaica would be an important boon to the country. It is well known that those laws which have been enacted since Emancipation have not secured to the peasantry those privileges and immunities which they were intended to confer: many of them, there- fore, have been disallowed. Amongst these there are some that are not oniy oppres- sive and unjust, but utterly at variance with every dictate of sound policy, such as the Militia Law, the Hawkers' and Ped- lars' Act, the Election Law, and the Stamp Act. A body of militia is unnecessary, and serves no other purpose than that of impo- verishing and demoralizing the peasantry. The tendency of the Hawkers' and Ped- lars' Act is to create a monopoly of trade ; to form an almost insurmountable barrier to honourable competition ; and to impose the most oppressive restrictions upon the industry of the poorer classes. A hawker and pedlar in England for the sum of 4/. may purchase a license, which enables him to travel throughout England and Wales. In Jamaica he would have to purchase as many licenses as there are parishes, and which, including stamp-duties and clerks' fees, would probably amount to upwards of 100/. This Act is also as useless in the accomplishment of its avowed object as it is unjust and impolitic in its character, in- asmuch as it fails to benefit the monopo- list, is unproductive to the revenue, and in- effectual in preventing the sale of stolen goods. The election law is equally liable to ob- jection : by that mysterious combination of ever-changing difficulties which attends its operation, nearly 300,000 out of the 400,000 inhabitants which the island con- tains, may be said to be entirely unrepre- sented, and, consequently, be excluded from all the common paths of honourable ambition. The Stamp Act was evidently designed to prevent the possession of freeholds by the peasantry, and thus to diminish the amount of that influence which they would ultimately exert upon the legislature and other interests of the country. So unjust and oppressive are its enactments that every effort ought to be made by the friends of civil liberty to effect its disal- lowance.^ Great and salutary as is the change which has been effected in the judicial sys- tem, it cannot be dissembled that great de- fects still exist ; indeed, so palpable have these evils at length become, that conside- rable dissatisfaction has been for some time manifested on the subject, not only by the public but by the legal profession. They have been denounced in the public journals, and loud demands have been made for their reform. The remedies suggested are rules for the government of the inferior courts, and the establishment of island law reports, the latter to be pub- lished annually, for the use of the profes- sion, and the benefit of the public. There- ports to extend to all causes in Chancery, trials at Nisi Prius, and arguments in Banco, to be revised by the judge who heard or tried the cause in Chancery, or at Nisi Prius, and to be then published at the ex- pense of the island, and received as good authority in all its courts. | In the inferior courts great advantages have been derived from the appointment of chairmen of Quarter Sessions, some of whom, the Honourables T. J. Bernard, Mayo Short, and Henry Roberts, Esq., are especially efficient. A thorough reform of the magistracy is, however, imperatively required. So powerfully does prejudice still continue to operate against the poorer classes, so little effect has a change of cir- cumstances effected in the dispositions of the local authorities, and so far is justice removed beyond the reach of the pecu- niary means of the great mass of the peo- ple, that, with a very few exceptions, it may be said to be entirely denied them. Each parish has a Gustos Rotulorum, answering to the office of Lord Lieutenant of a county in England. He is designated Honourable, and has the custody of the parochial records. The affairs of each parish are managed by a vestry, over which the Custos presides. The vestry consists of the rector, churchwarden and * By this Act the legal expense of executing and recording a title for an acre of land will, in some cases, doable or treble its intrinsic value, ft is also supposed to possess a retrospective aspect, rendering all preceding conveyances invalid unless executed by a solicitor at the legal rate of charge., subjecting the present freeholders to the expense of new deeds of conveyance. t Jamaica Morning Journal. ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 47 ten vestrymen. It has the prerogatives of assessing and appropriating local taxes ; appointing waywardens for superintending the repair of public roads ; and also of choosing the different parochial officers. Each parish has also its coroner and clerk of the peace, the duties and powers of which correspond with those of similar offices in England. The business connected with forts and fortifications, of public works, and of pub- lic accounts, is managed by commission- ers, of which the council and assembly are members ex officio. Port Royal Harbour is the rendezvous of the navy. In time of peace it consists of only one or two frigates and several smaller vessels, which are cruising on the station. Here also are the store-houses, the dock-yard, and the necessary conve- niences for careening ships. The military force, including 200 artil- lery-men, is about 3000, comprising four European regiments of the line, and one of Africans from the west coast of Africa. The colonial militia lately numbered from 16,000 to 18,000 men at arms, comprising 20 troops of horse and 23 of infantry, with two field-pieces and a company of artillery to each regiment. The head-quarters for the regiments of the line are Spanish Town, Kingston, and Maroon Town, in Tre- lawny. The principal fortifications are, Fort Charles on the east end of Port Royal', and the battery of the Twelve Apostles; and Fort Augusta, at the entrance of Port Royal and Kingston Harbours. The annual revenue of Jamiaca, includ- ing the local taxes of the different counties, and parish vestries, is estimated at 600,- 000/. It sustains its own government, and its ecclesiastical, naval and military esta- blishments (the salaries of the bishop and archdeacon excepted), besides yielding an annual revenue to the Crown of J 0,000/. The taxes are numerous, and oppressive to the public generally, but especially to the small freeholders : the principal of them are the land tax, the stamp tax, a tax of 20s. on wheel carriages not used in agriculture or for the conveyance of goods, a house tax of 12 per cent, on the amount of rent, a tax on horses, mules, and horned stock ; and a road tax, recently enacted, which levies one dollar, or 4s. Id., per an- num On each male person from sixteen years of age to sixty. As they have been raised with little regard to justice and the pecuniary ability of the public, so have they been squandered with the most reck- less extravagance. Thus, in addition to the 80,000/. absorbed by the national church, the cost of the police establishment amounts to 56,400/. per annum, and that of the immigration scheme, to not less than 30,000/. per annum. From the report of the committee, show- ing the ways and means, the income of the island for ] 842 was estimated at 427,000/., and the expenditure 363,000/., leaving an apparent overplus of 60,000/., thus, as was said officially by one of the members of the legislature, obviating the necessity that was supposed to exist for an income tax. The following extract from a letter late- ly received from a missionary in Jamaica, dated May 23, 1843, abundantly confirms the statements contained in this chapter: — " Our taxes are abominably high. The capitation tax of 4s. per head is felt as a burden, under which the people complain. A poor black man is charged his full amount of tax, sometimes more ; is often refused the discount, though he pays with- in the specified time ; is charged Is. or Is. Qd. for filling up the vestry form, and some of the magistrates demand Is. Id. for ad- ministering the required oath or receiving the necessary declaration : and now, by a most wily and unjust law, a man whose freehold is not worth 10/. per year is ex- empted from militia duty, and exempted also from a vote; so that every voter is liable to serve in the militia, and then the smallest privilege is not to be enjoyed by our peasantry unless they purchase it at about 100 per cent, above its real value." CHAPTER VIII. COMMERCE. SHIPPING; Imports and Exports— Monetary Sys- tem ; Coins, Amount of Property, aggregate Vaiud of Property. From the transition which society has lately undergone, it was natural to expect that in the cultivation of the staple product of the country some temporary disadvan- tages would be experienced. 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Tji i-i CM rf lO © •- © «- s fy ©"cm'co'io"*— "©"© ©> ed o (Oh i— i lO CO i— © >° in t- -a -ejinooin-i-'*©© i-i co . ^J< t^ © © t~ ri o- t- 03 co © © co «o cm i> © © en —i o in co t- 00 03 ^ . ©,^F -* CM <3^ "•* CO •+! CO cm" ■<#*(-*©* CM© 00 © cS o go i-i cm in in o in j^O i-T cm 1-1 >> • rt m M r/2 03 E- a ca W g ft, Pi fe S 32 50 JAMAICA: the authority of the authenticated table of exports for the year 1842, (see preceding page) that the exports exceeded those of 1841 by 13,221 hogsheads of sugar, 3850 puncheons of rum, and 1233 tierces of coffee. This statement is thus noticed and con- firmed by the Editor of the Morning Jour- nal in Dec, 1842 : " We have been favoured with a view of the statements of exports from this island during the present year, and have been de- lighted at perceiving the increase which has taken place over those of 1841. The statement is incomplete, not including the exports from Port Maria, Lucea, and Savan- na-la-mar. , Notwithstanding these omis- sions, it appears that 13,221 hogsheads of sugar, 3850 puncheons of rum, 1233 tierces of coffee, have been shipped in 1842 over and above the shipments of the pre- vious year. Our British as well as Jamaica readers will be gratified at the increased production of our staples, which this state- ment shows, and will join us in the anxious hope that they will continue to increase in the like ratio every year, until our island has reached that pitch beyond which in- creased production becomes an evil." Hhds. Sugar. Pns. Rum. Trcs Coffee. 1841 - 22,691 8,29S 7,570 1842 - 36,012 12148 8,803 Excess - 13,321 3,850 1,233 The following is an extract from the Morning Journal of Feb. 13, 1843 :— " Having laid before our readers a state- ment of the quantity of produce imported into London during the years 1841 and 1842, with the stock on hand at Christmas of each year, and shown the considerable increase which had taken place in the im- ports of the latter period, we come now to exhibit the result upon a more extended scale. The return before us embraces the Ports of London, Liverpool, Bristol and Glasgow, and these being the principal ones of the country, the result must be considered pretty correct. " It appears, then, that the imports of the year 1842 of sugar from the West Indies exceeded those of the previous year by 16,076 hogsheads and tierces, and 5354 barrels; the imports of 1841 being 136,974 hogsheads and tierces, and 11,745 barrels, and those of 1842, 253,050 hogsheads and tierces, and 17,099 barrels. " The next article on the list is rum. The imports of this article from the West Indies increased during the last year, as might very reasonably be expected, the sugar crops having been larger. Those in 1841 were 26,647 puncheons and hogs- heads ; and in 1842, 33,814 puncheons and hogsheads; total excess, 7167 pun- cheons and hogsheads. "The imports of pimento in 1842 ex- ceeded those of 1841, by 9333 casks and bags." On this subject we shall give, in the words of Lord Stanley, the present secre- tary for the colonies, in his place in par- liament, an account of the amount and va- lue of exports from the British West Indies, during a few years before and since the abolition of slavery, which is as follows : " When he looked to the average quan- tity of sugar imported into the United Kingdom from the West Indies, he found, that during the six years preceding the ap- prenticeship it was 3,905,034 cwts. ; that during the four years of apprenticeship, it fell to 3,486,225 cwts. ; that during the first year of freedom, 1839, it fell to 2,824,106 cwts.; and that during the second year of freedom, 1840, it fell to 2,210,226 cwts. If the house would permit him to state this case fully and fairly, they would find that the deficiency of the quantity had been made up by the increased value of the produce in the different intervals. For instance, the average value of sugar for the six years preceding the apprenticeship was 5,320,021/. ; and for the four years of the apprenticeship, it was 6,218,801/. In the first year of freedom the amount was 5,530,000/., and in the next year 5,424,- 000/. ; and, although in this year there would be a large reduction, still there would be a fair remuneration for what was lost by the diminution of produce." We may add that, during the past year, the export of sugar from the British West In- dia colonies was 2,151,217 cwts., making an average of 2,395,151 cwts. since the introduction of freedom, being nearly two- thirds of the amount exported during the period of slavery. In the present year, the exports are expected to exceed those of the last, by from 200,000 to 300,000 cwts. The coins until the passing of the act in 1839 for the assimilation of the currency to that of the United Kingdom, were Spa- nish and Portuguese. There were no banks. ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 51 Money transactions with England were car- ried on by means of bills of exchange, usu- ally bearing a rate of premium in propor- tion to their demand in the market, besides the nominal par of exchange. Sometimes the premiums have been as high as 23 per cent. The only paper currency consisted of island checks, issued by the Receiver General upon the security of the island and its revenue. The gold and silver coins were doubloons, pistoles, dollars, half-dol- lars, maccaronies, tenpences, and five- pences. There was no copper coin cur- rent, and the smallest of the silver coin was bd. current or 3d. sterling. There are now three banks in full ope- ration, which have removed a great impe- diment to commercial intercourse, and greatly facilitated the operations of the planter by securing a constant supply of metallic currency, thereby acting benefici- ally, both on the colonies and the parent state. The total amount of annually created property on the island, such as its agricul- tural, vegetable, and animal productions, is estimated at upwards of eight millions, and the total of movable and immovable, such as land, public buildings, domestic proper- ty, and money in circulation, at upwards of forty-four millions. CHAPTER IX. WHITE INHABITANTS. Their Origin, Settlement, Trades and Professions, Do- mestic Habits, Dress — Social Dispositions and Af- fections — Manners and Customs — Education, Mo- rals, Religion— General Improvement. The first white settlers in Jamaica after its possession by the British were soldiers of the armament under Penn, "Venables, and D'Oyly ; immigrants from Ireland and Scotland ; pirates and buccaneers, the lat- ter of whom had long infested the neigh- bouring seas. To these may be added va- rious individuals of respectability, judges and others, who had taken a conspicuous part in the trial of Charles I. Some wealthy planters arrived from' Barbadoes ; Scotch settlers from Darien ; a number of Jewish families, and several naval and military officers. These were succeeded from year to year by artificers and indented servants, together with individuals of different trades and professions, more or less reputable as to character, from the three kingdoms. Some also were from Germany, Portugal, St. Domingo, and several of the French and Spanish settlements. In process of time this heterogeneous mass became amalgamated, and from various local cir- [Planter, attended by Negro Driver.] cumstances, assumed something like a | guished in general as professional men, common character. They were distin- 1 planters, merchants, store- keepers, and 52 JAMAICA tradesmen, with others occupying inferior situations under them. The descendants of these, the present natives of the country, are slender and graceful in form, their complexion pale, and with a more languid expression of countenance than the Europeans ; their features are regular, their eyes expressive and sparkling, their hair a fine flaxen or auburn, their voices soft and pleasing, and their whole air and looks tender, gentle, and feminine. In the furniture of their houses and do- mestic habits, the more respectable of the white inhabitants, native as well as Euro- pean, differ but little from those of the same classes in the mother country. In consequence of the heat of the climate both sexes generally dress in white. As throughout the year the duration of the day and night is nearly the same, there is but little variation in the hours of rising, meals and business. Every* morning at sun-rise, about 5 o'clock, a gun is fired at Port Royal, and again at sunset, about seven o'clock. Five or six is the usual time of rising, breakfast about eight or nine, and a meal called the second breakfast be- tween twelve and one. Among the more respectable classes, dinner is usually served at six or seven in the evening, but few of the inhabitants take either tea or supper. Though the white inhabitants of Jamaica retained in a considerable degree the na- tional customs, as well as many of the domestic and social habits of their Euro- pean ancestors, yet in consequence of the peculiar circumstances in which they were placed, they rapidly degenerated in their mental attainments and general accomplish- ments. The females, excluded from the advan- tages of a liberal education, became addict- ed to pleasures, such as horse-races, dances, and convivial entertainments, thus acquir- ing habits which could not fail to operate unfavourably on their domestic circum- stances and general character. Both sexes became alike the victims of pride, avarice, and prejudice, and, though kind and generous in their deportment to- wards friends and acquaintances, yet to- wards others, especially if their inferiors, they were reserved, proud, supercilious, overbearing and cruel, exhibiting, indeed, an anomaly of character perfectly inexpli- cable, but for the influence of slavery. The aggregate character of the white inhabitants, when composed of such ele- ments, in a country abounding in facilities for the gratification of the worst passions of our nature, and where, at the same time, they were under the influence of no salu- tary restraints, may be in some degree, at least, conceived. Lest, however, the testi- mony of the writer (though drawn from facts collected on the spot, or the result of his own personal observation) should be liable to suspicion, he will adduce represen- tations from historical records ; a portrait shall be given as delineated by men who were too closely connected with the state of things in the colony to be even suspect- ed of exaggeration to the disadvantage of the parties concerned. The character of the white inhabitants was by these writers deplored, and mentioned only with a view either of exhibiting the progress of reform, or of operating as a stimulus to greater im- provement ; an object than which nothing can be more anxiously desired by the best friends of the country. " Many of those," says Mr. Long, " who succeeded to the management of estates had much fewer good qualities than the slaves over whom they were set in authori- ty, the better sort of whom heartily des- pised them, perceiving little or no difference from themselves, except in skin and blacker depravity." The practice of profane swearing was awfully prevalent among them. Without it every sentence they uttered appeared in- complete. Not even the most foolish and unimportant story was related without in- voking thesacred name of God to attest its truth and facilitate its currency. " I have often thought," continues the same author, " that the lower orders of white servants on the plantations exhibit such pictures of drunkenness, that the better sort of creole blacks have either conceived a disgust at the practice that occasions such odious ef- fects, or have refrained from it out of a kind of pride, as if they would appear supe- rior to, and more respectable than, such wretches." But such practices were not confined to the managers and others on estates. The vice of drunkenness pervaded all ranks, often aggravated in proportion to the pos- session of rank and wealth ; — their carou- sals being usually accompanied by gam- bling and all the evils which follow in its ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 53 train. " Many gentlemen of rank in the country impaired their fortunes and re- duced their families to the brink of ruin by such excesses. It was not at all unusual to see one of them, after losing all his money, proceed to stake his carriage and horses, that were waiting to convey him home, and, after losing these, obliged to re- turn on foot. Drunken quarrels happened among intimate friends, which generally ended in duelling, — a species of crime the most awfully prevalent, and resorted to on the most trifling occasions. There were very few who did not shorten their lives by intemperance and violence." " The bulk of the uneducated," says Stewart, "are dissolute in their lives, and shameful in their excesses." Concubinage was almost universal, embracing nine- tenths of the male inhabitants. Nearly every one down to the lowest white ser- vant had his native female companion.* For the most part the only exceptions were to be found in the cases of a few profession- al men, merchants, store-keepers in the towns (principally Jews), and here and there in the country a proprietor or large attorney." " The name of a family man," says the favourite historian of the colo- nists,! " was formerly held in the greatest derision, whilst for a white man to form a matrimonial alliance with a woman of colour, although she might have lived with him for years and borne him several child- ren, would be for ever to forfeit his rank in white society, and to transmit his name to posterity in imperishable infamy." The most shameless adultery was every where prevalent. This sin was so common that groups of white and mulatto children, legitimate and illegitimate, were frequent- ly claimed by the same father, and all brought up together under the same roof. This gross and open violation of every social duty was tolerated without the least injury to character even in the estimation of females of respectability, or any diminu- * Mr. Baillie, a large West Indian proprietor, when examined before a Committee of the House of Lords in 1832, was asked the question — " Can you name any overseer, driver, or other person in authority, who does not keep a mistress ?" He replied — " I can- not." For this profligacy of manners on estates the subordinate white servants were not wholly account- able. The formation of more reputable connexions, by the wretched policy of proprietors and attorneys, would have subjected them to the loss of employ- ment. t Long. tion of public or private respect. Unblush ing licentiousness, from the Governor downwards throughout all the intermediate ranks of society, was notorious in the broad light of day. It revelled in the multiplicity of its vic- tims without resistance and without con- trol. Renny, who published a history of Ja- maica about the year 1807, says, " surely there never was a greater inconsistency than a profession of religion here. In some of the parishes, which are larger than our shires, there is no church ; in others there is no priest ; and when there is, the white inhabitants never think of attending. In a town which contains be- tween 20 and 30,000 inhabitants, there is but one church, whilst the attendance at first sight is really somewhat surprising. When you enter the church on Sunday, you see the curate, the clerk, the sexton, one or two magistrates, and about a dozen of gentlemen, and nearly double that num- ber of ladies. Nothing troubles the white inhabitants less than the concerns of reli- gion. Christianity, indeed, is so contrary in its spirit, in its doctrines, and in its in- junctions, to their conduct, their prejudices, and their interests, that it is not at all sur- prising that even the mutilated form of it which the English church presents to them should be very obnoxious, and, though not much spoken against, yet secretly despised and openly neglected." They paid no ex- ternal respect to the Sabbath. " In the towns," continues the same author, and which is also attested by Stewart, " many of the stores are open on the Sunday, and business is transacted in them as usual, with this difference, that the clerks and negroes generally have that day to them- selves, which the former spend in amuse- ment, and the latter in idleness and de- bauchery." In the country the Sabbath was the grand gala day. The overseers on the different estates in each neighbour- hood " then meet together, dine alternately at each other's houses, and spend the even- ing of the day in conversation, smoking, drinking, playing at cards, or dancing, and sometimes, as it not unfrequently happens, in all these employments." That torrent of iniquity which on other days was direct- ed into its separate and more confined channel, seemed on this sacred day to con- verge around the festive board. There 54 JAMAICA: seemed something in the very atmosphere of Jamaica unfavourable to religion in a white man, for scarcely did he touch her shores, than its most important truths were forgotten, and its most sacred obligations violated. " As to the great part of the white colo- nists born and brought up in the West In- dies," says Mr. Stephens, " I am at a loss for any criterion by which their religious classification can be fixed. Many of them, I believe, have rarely been in a place of worship in their lives. Some, it is sup- posed, have never been baptized." Multitudes of them assumed the scoffers' chair, and publicly avowed themselves the champions of infidelity. The press was also enlisted in the same unhallowed cause, and poured out torrents of blasphemy from day to day; whilst the whole community, regarding religion as hostile to their in- terests as it was opposed to their propensi- ties, opposition to its introduction by mis- sionaries was to be expected. " The first time I preached in Kingston," says Dr. Coke, " a gentleman, inflamed with liquor, began to be very turbulent; till at last, the noise increasing, they cried out, ' Down with him ! down with him !' They then pressed forward through the crowd in order to seize me, crying out again, ' Who seconds that fellow?' — from whose vio- lence I was principally protected by a lady. On my first arrival at Montego Bay, accompanied by a missionary," he continues, " we walked about the streets, looking and inquiring for a place to preach in, but every door seemed closed against us." On the following year he again writes: — " The disposition which had voci- ferated ' Down with him !' had not yet sub- sided. On the contrary, it had raged with greater violence, and persecution had put on a more terrific form." About this time, a new chapel being completed, he says — " It was erected in the circle of danger, and arose amidst sur- rounding storms." i" Soon after," he proceeds, " the perse- cutions we have experienced in this place (Jamaica) far, very far, exceed all perse- cutions we have experienced in all the other islands unitedly considered." Mr. Hammet's life was frequently en- dangered. Mr. B., who first opened his house, several times narrowly escaped being stoned to death. " Often our most active friends were obliged to guard our chapel, lest the outrageous mob should pull it down to the ground." At Spanish Town, it appears, he succeeded in procur- ing a room for preaching ; but even here the same bitter spirit of opposition display- ed itself. " When I entered the room," he says, " I found it filled with the young bucks and bloods, as we used to term the debauchees at Oxford, who, during my sermon, behaved so rudely that I could scarcely proceed." At the Assembly Room at Montego Bay, which he obtained for the same purpose, he continues — " After I had enforced on the audience the great truths of Christianity, a company of men, with a printer at their head, kept up a loud clap- ping of hands for a considerable time. I then withdrew into Mr. Brown's dwelling- house ; but my companion (Mr. Fish, a missionary) lost me, and, going out into the street, was instantly surrounded by the men, who shouted and swore they would first begin with the servant; on which an officer of the army drew his sword, and, stretching it forth, declared he would run it through the body of any one who dared to touch the young man." Things pro- ceeded to still further extremities. At Kingston, and subsequently at Morant Bay, several ministers and members of their congregations were imprisoned. Among the rest was Mr. Gilgrass, a missionary ; and that on no other charge than singing after six o'clock in the evening in his own house. It was under circumstances, too, as far as the authorities were concerned, of a still more intolerant and disgraceful character, as it appears, (and this, it seems, was urged in his defence) that he was merely learning a tune which a brother missionary had just brought from England. "At present," says the same excellent missionary. " I cannot read in the family, or pray, without being cursed worse than a pickpocket, and that by white men who are called gentlemen." Respecting Mr. Hammet, the first missionary who settled in Kingston, he adds — "Harassed with persecution and fatigue, Mr. H. was at this time worn down to a mere skeleton, and the restoration of his health appeared ex- tremely doubtful. His enemies had often killed him in report, and had even in- sinuated that he had been buried by his friends in a clandestine manner." Dr. C. continues — " ' This night,' writes a friend, ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 55 1 we were assaulted on both sides of the house at prayer with a volley of stones, so that some were obliged to' fly to the win- dows to secure the blinds for fear of our sustaining damage/ " Subsequently to this were enacted the most intolerant and per- secuting laws, which aimed at nothing less than the expulsion of the missionaries from the island ; but which, being opposed to the express command of the " King of kings," and, therefore, necessarily disobeyed by his servants, they were frequently subject- ed to the indignities of the judgment seat and the prison. These were, indeed, times of rebuke, and blasphemy, and trial.- The situation of the missionaries was often pain- ful in the extreme ; frequently were they compelled to submit to the mandates of colonial law, and doomed to witness the progress of iniquity, without being permit- ted to raise their voice against it. Time would fail to enumerate the nature and the number of the laws that were successively enacted by the Legislature to arrest the progress of religious knowledge, and rivet afresh the fetters of ignorance upon their unhappy vassals. One of these enactments restricted the communication of Christian instruction to the slaves before sun-rise and after sun-set, the only times when they could possibly attend for such a pur- pose ; another was an act by which every missionary was subjected to a fine of 201. for every negro found in his congregation ; these were followed by a succession of others of the same nature and spirit too tedious to detail, down to the period of the last eventful insurrection in 1832. Thus the whites, notwithstanding their superior advantages, instead of being the most re- spectable and happy members of society, were the most wretched and corrupt — so far from setting a good example to their dependants, they adopted every possible means to impair the reverence due to reli- gion, and to weaken the hinges of moral action. The very term " sectarian" served as a convenient synonyme for ignorance and persecution, while misrepresentation and calumny were most liberally employed to alienate the people, generally, from the hallowed institutions of religion, and to excite their prejudices and their passions against its ministers. The following examples will illustrate and confirm the truth of the preceding ob- servations : — On one occasion, when in the interior of the country, an application was made by a white man for an interview with a missionary, who soon perceived that he had been favoured with a religious educa- tion, and that, although his career had been marked by great excesses, that he was not wholly insensible to moral feeling ; and the missionary, therefore, endeavoured, in a faithful and affectionate manner, to press upon his attention the great truths of the Gospel. The tears started in his eyes, and he exclaimed, with apparent anguish, of heart, "What, sir, shall I do? You have no idea of the degree of wickedness that prevails among the people of my own colour throughout the country. I am a poor man, and, therefore, cannot leave the island, or else most gladly would I do so ; besides, I am now out of employment ; and were it known that I had attended the preaching of a missionary, or were it even known that I had spoken to one (and it will be known throughout the parish before to-morrow night), what think you will be the treatment I shall receive from the over- seers of the different properties when I go in pursuit of employment?" The conclu- sion of his statement must be omitted. On another occasion a missionary met with an individual who had once made a profession of religion, but who had long since awfully fallen, had given himself up to sin, and to work all uncleanness with greediness. He had attended a religious meeting, and the singing, combined with other circumstances, awakening some long slumbering recollections, although partially intoxicated, he requested an interview. He seemed wretched, and repeatedly exclaim- ed, " O, this country ! I am a wretched and miserable man. So far as the body is concerned, I have enough and to spare, but my soul ! what, is to become of that ? I have never had a happy moment, sir, since I turned my back upon God !" An apparently pious and excellent man, just arrived from Scotland, was urged by a near relative to give up his religion at once, as it would ruin and disgrace them both. On his refusal he was turned out of doors, and directed to seek employment as a book-keeper on an estate. He did so ; and on an interview which he sought with his relative (for he seemed to have had the spirit as well as the circumstantials of genuine piety) previously to his entering 56 JAMAICA: upon the duties of his new situation, what does the reader think constituted the es- sence of the parting adieu 1 — " If your religion is not beaten out of you in a few days," said the experienced libertine and atheist, " I shall be sadly out of my reckon- ing." Lamentable to relate, this predic- tion, as has doubtless been the case in hundreds of similar instances, was but too strictly verified. " I have just been conversing," said a friend to a missionary one evening, " with a professional gentleman from the country, on the subject of religion. He wept aloud, and said, ' that Jamaica was a hell upon earth.' " These are plain irrefutable facts. So plain and so irrefutable that the conscience of every man acquainted with the general state of society, if suffered to speak out, would unhesitatingly confirm them. On some estates it was customary for the head book-keeper to read the burial- service at the funerals of the christened negroes. It was so at R. H. ; and on the death of a pious negro the book-keeper ap- peared at the appointed time at the place of interment, and, placing himself at the side of the grave, opened the prayer-book and began the service. He was agitated, and read the few first lines with a falter- ing voice, but when he came to that part of it which refers to the resurrection of the dead, he trembled to such a degree that the book fell from his hands, and running hastily away left the corpse uninterred. The deceased having been much respected, the funeral procession was numerous, com- posed of almost all the negroes on the estate, and others of piety from the sur- rounding ones. These were all witnesses of this spectacle, and were at length obliged to perform the last sad offices themselves. Many of the poor people who were present declared this to be a fact, and moreover asserted that the book-keeper, when his terror had subsided, swore that he would never act as chaplain again. C , a planting attorney who had been a great tyrant to the slaves under his charge, was so afraid of being poisoned by some of them that he would not eat any- thing unless it had been prepared and cooked for him by his house-keeper. He even thought that this was not exercising sufficient caution, but kept a boy, the ille- gitimate offspring of one of the white men on the estate, constantly sitting on the threshold of the cook-house, during the process, to watch lest any negro entered either it or his dwelling, having the door of the cook-house carefully locked in the interval. He at one time thought that his vigilance had been eluded, and that he was slightly poisoned. He was wretched, and his health became gradually impaired. For its restoration he performed a voyage to his native country. During his ab- scence his slaves received more humane treatment, and were comparatively happy. After the lapse of a period which seemed to justify the hope that they would never again be subjected to his despotic sway, and when cheerfully at work on the public road, his return was announced. They heard the tidings with consternation, and on its being added by their informant that he was on the road, and would soon be in sight, they simultaneously threw down their hoes and fled into the woods, shout- ing " O, da buckra da come again, come kill we." Perceiving the terror his appear- ance created he again became wretched, and at last left the island with a determina- tion never to return to it again. As they have lived so many of them have died. Justly may it be asked, " Who ever fought against God and prospered?" Mr. , abhorred by almost all who had a tinge of colour in their complexion, a proprietor and a magistrate, among his other vices, was much addicted to the use of ardent spirits. A short time before his death, though confined to his bed, from which he had no prospect of rising again, he was in a state of constant intoxication. The brandy-bottle which for years had stood constantly by his bed-side was fre- quently emptied during the course of twen- ty-four hours. A few minutes before he ceased to breathe he vociferated so loudly and furiously for more that he was heard at some distance. On entering his cham- ber the blood which had flowed from his mouth as the effect of mercury and fever, was seen besmeared over his face, which, together with his fiend-like ravings, gave such an aspect of horror to his countenance and gestures that even his negro servants and other attendants were afraid to go near him, and their terror was not a little in- creased by the horrible imprecations he uttered and the curses he called down upon them for not obeying his commands. He ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 57 expired on the floor, in the midst of blas- phemies, while attempting to revenge him- self on his attendants for their neglect. Within the last twenty years, but more remarkably since 1838, a very considera- ble improvement has become perceptible in this class of society, especially in the towns, and in particular districts of the country.* Public opinion in the mother country, and more frequent contact with Europeans of both sexes, added to the in- fluence which has been exerted by family men, as Governors, Judges, and profes- sional men in general, have served to sti- mulate the Jamaica females to the-posses- sion of superior accomplishments and the cultivation of more controllable and gene- rous feelings. Numbers of them also have been educated in the first board ing.schools in England, and have therefore, as maybe supposed, effected considerable reformation in the circles in which they have after- wards moved. Some, it is true, have re- lapsed into the listless, apathetic habits of those around them ; but a progressive ad- vancement in delicacy of feeling, liberality' of sentiment, and in all the refinements of polished society, is clearly perceptible. Many ladies in Jamaica, both as to their persons, manners, and general character, would be an ornament to any society in the world. A considerable reformation has also been effected in the moral and social ha- bits of the other sex, especially in the towns. In the country, with some excep- tions in favour of particular districts, and isolated families, it is painful to add that the picture as previously drawn is still but a too faithful representation. So difficult is it for anything short of divine agency to correct inveterate habits of evil, that drun- kenness, profane swearing, concubinage, and licentiousness, with every other kind and degree of wickedness, still prevails to an awful extent, although less unhlushing- ly than formerly. Proprietors, if they cannot be prevailed upon to act from higher motives, cannot fail in a short time to discover it to be their interest, to encou- rage, rather than discountenance, the for- mation of more reputable connexions by managers and others on their estates. Not * The families of the Marquis of Sligo and Sir Lio- nel Smith exerted an especially beneficial influence in elevating the tone and character of society among the upper classes. only is the practice of concubinage awfully demoralizing to all classes and colours, as well as a source of misery to a body of men, some of whom are desirous of culti- vating the social virtues, but from the in- fluence of religion on the minds of the pea- santry, it renders the perpetrators pitiable, if not despicable, in their estimation, and will tend powerfully to prevent the growth of that mutual respect and confidence which are essential to prosperity and hap- piness in a state of freedom. The forego- ing statements may be regarded as descrip- tive of white society in the country dis- tricts at the present day. The exceptions, which are gradually increasing, being from their secluded habits comparatively isola- ted and unknown, do not at present afford any material relief to the dark and forbid- ding outline. It is delightful to contemplate the change which in this respect has taken place in the towns. Here a goodly and rapidly in- creasing number have abandoned their former licentious habits, and have entered the marriage state. Amongst these it must be confessed that the Jews furnish the most numerous and reputable examples. Among them marriages with persons of their own nation have always been common, and are obviously on the increase ; whilst the dis- grace formerly attached to a matrimonial alliance of a white man with a female of colour no longer exists, numbersof the most influential individuals in the colony having broken down the barrier which a popular, but corrupt, prejudice had raised against it. Hence some of the highest civic officers and merchants, with others in all classes of society, have lately married the mo- thers of their families, and have availed themselves of the advantages of a retro- spective clause in a recent Marriage Act, which, under such circumstances, legiti- matizes their children. Embracing all these redeeming features, however, even with regard to the more densely populated and more highly civilized parts of the island, and placing them in the most con- spicuous and advantageous light, it must still be confessed that they are but as specks of verdure amidst universal bar- renness and desolation — as obscured and scattered lights amidst thick and prevailing darkness. These vices are yet to be met with in high places. They "are still patronized to 58 JAMAICA a fearful degree by the examples of mer- chants, tradesmen, and some high public functionaries. It is yet the case, that crimes which in other countries would be considered and treated as a wanton insult to society at large, do not generally ex- clude the guilty parties from the pale of respectable society, or generally operate to their disadvantage among the female por- tion of the community. The reckless de- stroyers of female innocence and happi- ness still unite in the dance, mingle in pub- lic entertainments, are sometimes admitted at the social board, and are on terms of in- timacy with the younger branches of fa- milies. Nor, revolting as it may be to English feelings, is it much otherwise to- wards a known and habitual adulterer. Nor is this all ; the possession of an illicit establishment by a suitor even at the pre- sent day operates as no objection in the mind of a Jamaica female to an alliance with him in marriage. It is not indeed un- usual, in the event of satisfactory arrange- mentsof a pecuniary kind being previously made, for the quondam mistress to assist in the arrangements for the marriage cere- mony, to reside on some part of the pre- mises, or to continue on terms of intimacy with the family of her former lord. When will the respectable families and individuals of Jamaica v/ipe away the re- proach which such practices cannot fail to fix upon their characters 1 That the bar- barism and demoralizing influence of such a state of things are becoming the subjects of increasing discussion among all classes ; that they are repudiated, privately con- demned, and in solitary instances publicly discountenanced, is evident. All that is required in order to correct, and finally to annihilate, the monstrous evil, is for ie- males and family men in general to make against it at once a vigorous and deter- mined stand. With so much that is evil in the moral and social condition of the white inhabi- tants, it will scarcely be expected that a very flattering account can be given of their general progression with regard to the great subject of religion. A darkness in this re- spect thick, gross, and palpable still pre- vails. Not only is there manifested the most awful indifference to the obligations of Christianity, but in numberless cases the most contemptuous disregard of it ; in a word, infidelity, so congenial with long habits, and so suitable with depraved tastes and inclinations, still obtains to a very great extent, fostered and confirmed by the vile publications, few in number though they are, found upon estates, and the almost en- tire restriction of intercourse in such places to corrupt and vicious company. Pre. judice against religion and its professors, however, is becoming far less inveterate and general among all classes of the whites throughout the country. Many have ex- emplified their liberality by assisting mis- sionaries in various ways in the erection of chapels and school-houses, while out- ward persecution has entirely ceased. Multitudes of planters and merchants, who were once the greatest enemies to re- ligion and its professors, are now occasion- ally seen in a place of worship on the Sab- bath. Whilst many have lately become savingly converted to God, have put on Christ by an open profession of his name, have formed reputable connexions in mar- riage, are ornaments to society, blessings to all around them, are confided in, es- teemed, and- beloved by the peasantry, and will unfailingly secure the prosperity of the properties of which they are either the pro- prietors or managers.* The extent to which the change with re- spect to religion has taken place in the towns can scarcely be conceived even by those who are most sanguine as to the pro- * An overseer, or, as he is more properly called in some other islands, manager, is the principal person on an estate under the proprietor or his attorney. A book-keeper is subordinate to the overseer, and su- perintends the labours of the field, and the manufac- ture of its produce. The latter appellation is most inappropriate — a Jamaica book-keeper having no books to keep. One of the greatest blessings that could be confer- red on white servants on estates would be a library of good and useful books. There have been instan- ces known in which two or three infidel publications have been all that some poor book-keepers and others have seen for years, and which, in a lew leisure mo- ments after the toils of the day, or in times of reco- very from sickness, they have been almost compelled to read to beguile the tediousness of their solitary and oftentimes melancholy hours. After all, our white countrymen on estates and properties in the interior of the country have been, and are still, in a situation very far from enviable ; and it is high time that some- thing should be done for their improvement and com- fort. In some large manufactories, &c, in England, pro- prietors feel it to their interest to promote the morals of their dependants, and for this purpose connect li- braries with their establishments, and in every other way endeavour to promote their social and domestic comfort. Surely West Indian proprietors are to be found who only need to be reminded of the mutual advantages to be derived from similar means in order to their speedy adoption. ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 59 gress of favourable events. The Sabbath day is now recognised as the day of God. Hundreds of the most respectable families are seen attending different places of reli- gious worship who a short time since were scarcely ever within the walls of such an edifice. The Bible is no longer a proscribed or unknown book, nor are children brought up either to ridicule its hallowed doctrines or to despise its salutary restraints. Bible societies, school societies, anti-sla- very societies, and various institutions of a similar kind, have at length excited the sympathies and co-operation of the respec- table female portion of the community ; and gentlemen of the first standing in so- ciety are no longer ashamed to advocate the claims of such institutions by presiding at their anniversaries and contributing libe- rally and openly to their funds. The opi- nion that religion consisted only in an oc- casional attendance at the parish church is no longer general. It begins to be regard- ed as a daily and personal concern, and has become the subject of conversation in families where a little time ago its intro- duction would have excited ridicule or con- tempt. Books of all descriptions, many of them the Tract Society's publications, have found their way into private libraries, — are found on drawing-room tables, — and are exten- sively read. Above all, a. family altar is erected in the houses of many leading men in the community, at which they them- selves preside, — a practice which even ten years since would have subjected them in the public newspapers to contempt and scorn, and which, with the exception of a few isolated instances among laymen, was then totally unknown. The elevating and purifying influences of religion are extend- ing themselves among our countrymen and their descendants, encouraging the hope that irreligion and profligacy, persecution and bigotry, the unfailing concomitants of slavery, will disappear with the system which nurtured them to such an awful ma- turity and power. CHAPTER X. PEOPLE OF COLOUR AND FKEE BLACKS. Former condition — Causes of difference of Com- plexion and Circumstances — Political State — Pro- scription from Society of White Inhabitants — Low State of Morals — Removal of Disabilities — Rapid Advancement in civilization and the Social Scale — Present Condition. With the exception of the Maroons, or " Hog-hunters," as the term imports, de- scendants of the slaves whom the Spa- niards left behind them on the conquest of the island by the British, the inhabitants were divided into only two distinctive class- es, white and black ; the external peculi- arities of which determined the condition of the parties as it respected slavery or freedom. In process of time, owing to manumissions granted to domestics as a reward for long and faithful services, toge- ther with those on whom that boon had been bestowed by the House of Assembly, chiefly for distinguished efforts in endea- vouring to restore tranquillity to their oft distracted community, in addition to the favoured few who had been enabled to ob- tain their enfranchisement by purchase, there arose, from among the sons and daughters of Ethiopia, an increasing body of persons of free condition denominated free blacks and people of colour. The lat- ter, descended from an intermixture of whites, blacks, and Indians, soon formed an intermediate race, whom the Spaniards distinguished by appellations varying ac- cording to their approach in consanguinity to their white or black progenitors. Five principal varieties are generally enumera- ted as descending from the original negro stock, the sambos, mulattoes, quadroons, mestees, and mestipbinoes. But to' these refined distinctions, the Spaniards add the tercirons and the giveros, whom they are said to have proscribed and banished as beings of the worst inclinations and prin- ciples. The Dutch recognised gradations still more minute, and which they attempt to distinguish and designate by adding drops of pure water to a single drop of dusky liquor until it becomes nearly trans- parent. A sambo is the offspring of a black wo- man by a mulatto man. A mulatto is the child of a black woman by a white man. A quadroon is the offspring of a mulatto woman by a white man, and a mestee is 60 JAMAICA: that of a quadroon woman by a white man. The offspring of a female mestee by a white man being above the third in li- neal descent from the negro ancestor was white in the estimation of the law, and en- joyed all the privileges and immunities of Her Majesty's white subjects, but all the rest, whether mulattoes, quadroons, or mes- tees, were considered by the law as mulat- toes or persons of colour. A creole, what- ever his condition or external peculiarities, is a native; thus it is customary to say, a Creole white, a creole of colour, or a Cre- ole black. The colonial legislature, gravely assum- ing that recently enfranchised blacks could acquire no sense of morality by the mere act of manumission (although it cannot be doubted but that, in reality, they were in- fluenced by far less exceptionable motives); the political and civil condition of this class was of the most abject and oppressive cha- racter, desirable only when compared with the bondage to which it had succeeded. They were not admitted as evidence against white or other free-born persons in courts of justice, or allowed to vote at parochial or general elections. Like the common slaves, the only mode of trial which they were granted, was by two justices and three freeholders, the judges themselves being probably interested in the issue of the case. Nor did even the people of colour possess immunities to an extent to justify their claim to freedom even in the most restrict- ed import of the term. However wealthy or respectable — and some of them were equally so with many of the more privi- leged whites — their evidence was inadmis- sible in criminal cases, both against white persons and those of their own colour. The right of trial by a jury of their own peers conceded by the British constitution even to foreigners, was denied to them. They were ineligible to the office of ma- gistrates or churchwardens, to serve on pa- rochial vestries, to hold commissions in the black and coloured companies of mili- tia, or to sit on juries. To this catalogue of disabilities may be added those created by the 35th section of the colonial statute, which enacts, " that no Jew, mulatto, In- dian, or negro, shall be capable to officiate, or be employed, to unite in, or for, any of the public offices therein mentioned." They were not eligible to the office of a common constable, or even to the situation of over- seers or book-keepers on estates. Not only were they excluded from the privilege of representing their own colour in the colonial assembly, but they had no elective franchise, and were consequently denied the right of even voting at elections for the return of white members to the assembly, and thus virtually refused all right of re- presentation. It was even held illegal for them to possess property beyond a certain amount, lest they might acquire an influ- ence which they might one day exert " in- juriously to the island." Thus in an act of assembly passed in the year 1762, it is declared " that a testamentary devise from a white person to a negro, or mulatto not born in wedlock, of a real and personal estate exceeding in value 2000/. currency, or about 1200Z. sterling, shall be void, and the property shall descend to the heir at law." They were not allowed to possess either a sugar or a coffee estate ; and no one of them, except he possessed a settle- ment with ten slaves upon it, could keep any horses, mares, mules, asses or neat cattle on penalty of forfeiture.* Those who had not settlements were obliged to furnish themselves with certificates of their freedom under the hand and seal of a jus- tice, and to wear a blue cross on the right shoulder on pain of imprisonment. If free coloured individuals were convicted of con- cealing, enticing, entertaining, or sending off the island, any fugitive, rebellious or other slave, they were to forfeit their free- dom, be sold and banished. Unless the fact could he incontestably certified by documents, there was a legal presumption against the freedom of a black or coloured man, and in the event of the inability of such individuals to produce satisfactory documents, cases which were of constant occurrence, he was committed to the work- house, worked in chains, ultimately sold by auction to defray the expenses of his imprisonment, and himself and his poste- rity doomed to perpetual bondage. On every hand were they goaded by oppres- sion as cruel and unnatural as it was un- just and impolitic. Fear is the offspring of tyranny and the companion of guilt ; hence the whites were continually conjuring up dreams of rebellion and massacre. Scarcely therefore could these inoffensive people meet together without being sus- *Long, vol. ii.,pp. 321-323. ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 61 peeled of insurrectionory designs. Nor were the whites negligent in devising ex- pedients to banish the most influential of them from the colony as persons of dan- gerous principles. This object indeed they effected in the year 1823, by the operation of an alien act introduced into the Legisla- ture for no other purpose. The first vic- tims of this disgraceful statute were Messrs. Lescene, Escoffery, and Gonville, whose cause was so ably and triumphantly plead- ed before the British parliament by Dr. Lushington. Not only were they oppressed and bowed down by the operation of unjust and cruel laws, but there was yet another circum- stance connected with the condition of the coloured and black population, in some re- spects still more painful. The most inve- terate prejudices existed against them on account of their colour. Hence they were universally prohibited all intercourse of equality with the whites, and if of such an opprobrious distinction they ventured to complain, they were often insultingly told that they were " the descendants of the ourang-outang;" that their mothers hunted the tiger in the wilds of Africa ; and that, but for the generosity of their sires, in place of possessing freedom and property, their lot would have been to dig cane-holes be- neath the discipline of the driver's cart- whip. At church, if a man of colour, however respectable in circumstances or character, entered the pew of the lowest white man, he was instantly ordered out. At any place of public entertainment designed for the whites, he never dared to make his ap- pearance. With the people of colour, in- deed, the whites, like the Egyptians in re- ference to the Israelites, held it an abomi- nation even to eat bread. This senseless prejudice haunted its victims in the " hos- pital where humanity suffers, in the prison where it expiates its offences, and in the grave-yards where it sleeps the last sleep." In whomsoever the least trace of an Afri- can origin could be discovered, the curse of slavery pursued him, and no advantages either of wealth, talent, virtue, education, or accomplishments, were sufficient to re- lieve him from the infamous proscription. Under these circumstances, who can be surprised that, among this class also, there should have existed an awful laxity of mo- rals? Unlike their white progenitors, how- ever, they were not generally chargeable with the vice of drunkenness, with opposi- tion to the spread of religion, nor with bigotry, infidelity, and persecution. In every other respect, especially in licen- tiousness, they but too faithfully followed the example of the privileged orders. Al- luding to the people of colour, says Stewart in 1823, " few marriages take place among them. Most of the females of colour think it more genteel to be the kept mistress of a white man." They viewed marriage as an unnecessary restraint. Worse than this; — and can it be heard by Christian parents without a thrill of horror 1 — in hun- dreds of instances, mothers and fathers gave away in friendship, or sold, their daughters at the tenderest ages for the worst of purposes, or became the guardians of their virtue for a time only to enhance its future price. " Bred only and completed to the taste Of lustful appetence, to sing, to dance, To troll the tongue and roll the eye." These were not isolated cases, exceptions rather than general rules ; so common was the practice that negotiations for these purposes were carried on at noonday. Such was the debasement of moral feeling, that the most infamous excesses were per- petrated without a blush of shame, and among this class also there was one uni- versal riot in the vicious indulgences of an indiscriminate sensuality. Parents the reckless murderers of the innocence of their own offspring! Wan- ton and infamous abandonment of every fine and virtuous feeling ! Alas ! for the influence of slavery. By the efforts of a few noble spirits among their body, amongst whom as the most conspicuous and influential were Ri- chard Hill and Edward Jordon, Esqs., to- gether with Messrs. Lescene, Escoffery, and Gonville, their disabilities were at length removed, and they were admitted to a full participation of civil privileges with the whites. This occurred in the year 1828. Relieved from those proscrip- tions by which they had been enthralled and bowed down, they as a body immedi- ately began to advance in the scale of civi- lization, intelligence, and virtue, so that at the present time they discover a renovation of character and a degree of improvement in manners, customs, and knowledge, of which history, in a similar space of time, 62 JAMAICA : scarcely affords a parallel. In their houses, dress, personal appearance (complexion ex- cepted), general deportment, wealth, mo- rals, and religion, many of them are on an equality with the most respectable of the whites. Nor are they less so in the higher attainments of the mind. There are now to be found among them men of talent, learning, and accomplishments, who would do honour to any community. They fill the public offices, practise as solicitors and barristers in the courts of law; are found among our tradesmen, merchants, and estate proprietors ; are directors of our civil institutions ; are enrolled among our magistrates ; and have even obtained a seat and influence in the senate. The genero- sity of the females of colour has ever been proverbial ; and their kindness to strangers suffering from the diseases of the country has won for them universal gratitude and admiration. Neither are they less remark- able for their social and domestic qualities. There have always been found among them some who in no respect suffered by a com- parison with the most respectable of the whites. For several years this number has been increasing, and soon, by the posses- sion of equal advantages, every thing like a characteristic distinction between these two classes will be lost. " Children we are all Of one great Faiher, in whatever clime His providence hath cast the seed of life, — All tongues, all colours ! Neither after death Shall we be sorted into languages And tints — white, black, and tawny, Greek and Goth, Northman and offspring of hot Africa; Th' all-seeing Father — he in whom we live and move — He, th' indifferent Judge of all — regards Nations, and hues, and dialects alike: According to their works shall they be judged." With this advancement on the part of the more educated portion of the people of colour there has been also a corresponding improvement on the part of the working classes and the higher orders of the blacks. The latter have advanced to that degree in the scale of civilization and intelligence formerly occupied by the people of colour, and the former to that previously held by their more favoured white brethren. In no respect do these now differ from the middling and lower classes of trades- men and others in England. Their eyes have long been open to the disgrace and sin of concubinage, and marriage among them has become common. The eye of the Christian is now delighted, especially on the Sabbath, by the spectacle of multi- tudes of these classes with their families walking to and from the house of God in company. As in every other community, some may live together unhappily, or may violate the sacred compact, but with the great majority it is otherwise. None can be better hus- [ Mulatto and Black Female of the upper classes.] ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 63 bands, better wives, more affectionate parents, or better members of civil society. Nor are any people in general better dis- posed towards the great subject of religion. CHAPTER XL Sect. I. Political Condition of the Black Po- pulation. — Origin of the Slave Trade — Its Atro- cities — Slaves, when first brought to Jamaica, and by whotn — Dreadful Nature and consequences of Slavery as it existed in Jamaica. Sect. II. Abolition of the Slave Trade. — Origin of the African Institution— Efforts for ameliorating the Condition of the Slaves — Conduct of the Ja- maica House of Assembly — Insurrection or Distur- bance in 1832 and 1833 — Its real Causes — Destruc- tion of Mission Property — Wanton and Awful Sa- crifice of Negro Life by the Whites — Imprison- ment and Trial of Missionaries— Their triumphant Acquittal. Sect. III. The Apprenticeship System. — Tts Impo- licy, Injustice, and Cruelty — Inefficiency as a Pre- parative to Freedom — Special Magistrates — Exci- ted and utisetiled State of the Black Population as the Result of the Operation of this Systpm — Re- presentation of the State of Things by Missiona- ries — Messrs. Sturge, Harvey, and others. Sect. IV. Total Emancipation. — Manner in which it was celebrated — Conduct of the Newly-Emanci- pated — Conduct of the Planters — Subsequent Dif- ferences — Establishment of new Villages — Resto- ration to Harmony and Peace — General Prosperity and Happiness. Section I. — It has been already stated that, previously to its possession by the British, negroes had been imported into Jamaica by the Spaniards, a crime to the commission of which they were impelled by avarice, regarding it as the best means of supplying the want of labourers cre- ated by the destruction of the aboriginal inhabitants. In thus making merchandise of the bodies and souls of men they fol- lowed the example of the Portuguese, who began the infamous traffic in 1442 at Cape Bojador, under their celebrated navigator Anthony Gonzalez. Great numbers are said to have been imported into Jamaica as early as 1551, under the sanction of Fer- dinand V. of Spain. But the first cargo of which we have any authentic record was conveyed to the island by some Genoese merchants in 1517, to whom the Emperor Charles V. granted a patent for the annual supply of 4000 slaves to his West Indian possessions generally. The traffic was found to be lucrative, and the lust of avarice obliterating all sense of justice and every feeling of huma- nity, it was soon participated in by all the great maritime powers of Europe. The first Englishman who thus disho- noured himself and his country was Cap- tain, afterwards Sir John Hawkins, who, in conjunction with several wealthy mer- chants in London, fitted out three ships on this execrable enterprise in 1562. Sanctioned by Charles I. and II., as well as by succeeding monarchs, to such an extent had it increased under the Bri- tish flag, that, in 1771, one hundred and ninety-two ships were employed in the trade, and the number of slaves imported was from 38,000 to 40,000. The hapless victims of this revolting system were natives of the African conti- nent — men of the same common origin with ourselves, — of the same form and de- lineation of feature, though with a darker skin, — men endowed with minds equal in dignity, equal in capacity, and equal in duration of existence, — men of the same social dispositions and affections, and de- stined to occupy the same rank with our- selves in the great family of man. The means by which they were obtain- ed were in the highest degree unlawful and unjust. Their inhuman captors had no- thing like a colourable pretext to assign for their rapacity : their fiend-like purposes were accomplished by violence, fire, and every other instrument of devastation and murder which sagacity could contrive, or the lust of avarice prompt. Every tie, hu- man and divine, was violated. Nobles and princes were severed from their tribes and territories ; husbands, wives, and children from jeach other. They were barbarously manacled, — driven like herds of cattle to the sea-shore, often- times at a distance of some hundreds of miles, exposed to the burning heat and pestilential atmosphere of their sun-burnt lands, and ..then crowded into the holds of slave-ships. Arrived at the destined port (for a veil must be cast over the horrors of the middle passage), these poor wretches were sold at public outcry to the highest bidder, — were driven in chains (frequently naked) by their purchasers to their respec- tive domiciles, and the greater part of them doomed to toil almost without rest or inter- mission, until relieved by death from their captivity and suffering. Chiefly by the self-denying and arduous 64 JAMAICA : exertions of the eminent philanthropists Sharpe, Clarkson, and Wilberforce, aided by different religious bodies, but especially by the Society of Friends, the righteous indignation of the British people was at length aroused by the atrocities which this hateful traffic involved, and, no longer able to resist the united claims of reason, justice and humanity, in 1807 the imperial parliament decreed its abolition. While, however, this act prevented the importa- tion of fresh victims into the colony, slavery itself, with all its enormities, still existed. Those already brought were re- duced to a state of vassalage, the most de- grading to which human beings could be subjected, stripped of every right that life holds dear, outcasts from the common privileges of humanity, deprived of the essential attributes of man, without a legal claim to the produce of their own labour, or even to the possession of their wives and children. Driven to their labour by the cart-whip, classed with appurtenances of the estates to which they belonged, and bred for the exclusive purposes of sale and labour, their condition was not distinguish- able from that of the passive brute. As though to keep their spirits in perpetual prostration, and to extinguish every spark of the man within them, many were branded like sheep or oxen, with the ini- tials of their owner's name, an indignity to which they were liable as often as their purchaser was changed. They were per- petually liable to arbitrary, indecent, and excessive punishment. The most trifling circumstances could easily be magnified into crimes which would nerve the arm of the despot to whom this power was dele- gated, and who, at his pleasure, could in- flict whatever punishment he chose, with- out any regard to condition, sex or age. Not only did the task-master torture the bodies of his vassals by the whip, but he also corrupted their morals by his licen- tiousness. There was no law either to guard the chastity of a female slave, or to avenge any insult that might be offered to her violated honour. Nay more, the simple expressson of nature on the part of a slave as he witnessed the ruin of his wife, his mother, or his daughter by any of the white fraternity, was legally prohi- bited, and an attempt to protect them might be punishable with death. Thus, as they had no protection in their domestic inter- course, so neither had they any security in their sympathies and sorrows. They were subject to punishment at all times, which was inflicted by various legalized instruments of torture, by the common stocks, the thumb-screw, the field stocks, the iron collar, the yoke, the block and tackle, and the cart-whip. For running away from severe usage, a slave was deemed rebellious, and might be mutilated. Acts for which a white man would be only imprisoned were deemed capital crimes in a slave. If any event transpired which could be construed into an insurrection, these poor creatures were shot like wild beasts, or hunted down with blood-hounds; if they made the least re- sistance they were hewn to pieces ; if taken, were doomed to banishment or hope- less imprisonment. If actually concerned in treasonable practices, they were con- demned without trial, and expiated their crimes by sufferings inflicted with a wan- tonness of cruelty never exceeded by the most degraded barbarians. While however their oppressors, as ca- price or passion dictated, could thus inflict upon their wretched vassals sufferings al- most beyond endurance, a slave who raised his hand by nature's instinct for his own protection, or struck, or dared to strike, or used any violence towards, or compassed or imagined, the death of a master or mis- tress, was doomed to suffer death without benefit of clergy. On the other hand, the murder of a slave by a white man was a venial offence, and from the inadmissibility of slave evidence often escaped punish- ment altogether. The slave was therefore entirely unprotected from the tyranny of his master, nor could he be a party in any civil action, either as plaintiff, defendant, informant, or prosecutor, against any per ~ son of free condition. Thus he was pro- tected only as an inferior animal. Should he be maimed by a free person, the damage would not be awarded to him, but to his master. Even the natural right of self- defence was denied to a slave. Notwith- standing, however, his exclusion from the protection of the law, he was liable to its restraints, and thus underwent the miseries of a beast of burden without enjoying its immunities. Such was the penal code to which the slaves were subjected. The manner in which they were tried was, if possible, still more disgraceful and op- ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 65 pressive. On charges which did not affect their lives, it was competent for a single justice, or for two at most, to de- cide. The little huts in which they resided, lowly though they were, yet being of their own ejecting, the rural spots which they k had cultivated around them, and the trees >y which they were embosomed, planted by their own hands, and beneath the shade of which they had so often rested from their toils, and especially the circumstance that these spots were hallowed by the tombs of their friends and kindred, would natu- rally beget local attachments of -a most powerful, and almost superstitious charac- ter. But from these spots, thus hallowed by affection, thus endeared by all the feel- ings which constitute home, and perhaps the only objects that ever awakened the tenderness of their hearts, they were liable to be torn away for ever, and with it, from their wives, their children, and all the com- panions of their youth, torn away either at the caprice of their master, or in execu- tion for his debts — sold by auction to the highest bidder, and carried into a strange and unknown neighbourhood. " Numerous and cruel though the op- pressions are, by which the poor negroes are degraded, tormented, and destroyed," says Mr. Stephen, " there are two which I have regarded as by far the worst, not only because the most general and afflic- tive, but because they give birth, and viru- lence, and tenacity to almost all the rest — I mean the truly enormous amount of field- labour to which the negroes are coerced, and the almost incredible degree of parsi- mony with which they are maintained." Their labour, under the fervent heat of a tropical sun, was indeed cruelly execessive, sufficient, during a comparatively short period of time, to expend the vigour and exhaust the spirits of the strongest and most energetic frame, inasmuch as they had to perform by manual operation those processes which, in every other country, are performed by horses, oxen, and ma- chinery. In thousands of instances did it induce exhaustion and weakness, sick- ness, and premature death, facts of which no question can be entertained, it having been proved to a demonstration that the destruction of human life in those islands where sugar is most cultivated has been going on at a rate which, were it generally to prevail, would depopulate the earth in half a century.* And for all these wearisome labours they received no wages ; their toil was purely unrequited — unrequited not merely in a pecuniary sense, but frequently as it re- spected lodging, clothing, and food. Nor from their wretched condition was there any prospect of deliverance. The better their behaviour the more likely were they to be detained in bondage. No legal faci- lities were afforded by which they might be enabled to purchase their freedom, even if they possessed the means ; on the con- trary, the law actually interfered to pre- vent masters, who might be thus inclined, from giving them their liberty. They would have had one solace, had this dreary doom been only their own ; but it was not. It was hereditary. Slavery seemed to be a taint in the blood which no length of time, no change of relationship, could obliterate; it was entailed on the posterity of the slave to the remotest period. Their children and their children's children, through each successive generation, were heirs of the same inheritance. But there is still another light in which the condition of the negro must be viewed. Not only were their bodily sufferings al- most beyond endurance — not only were they consigned by thousands to a prema- ture grave, and given over to dreary, hope- less, and hereditary bondage, but their cruel task-masters carefully excluded them from all opportunities of Divine worship, and thus interposed their power between them and their Creator, as though deter- mined to retain them in ignorance of the gospel, as the only effectual means of per- petuating the existence of their inhuman system. Thus, as clearly expressed in the Consolidated Slave Act of 1816, they were not permitted to attend a place of worship, or to engage in religious duties in their own habitation, without a special license from the magistrates. And for the crime of worshipping God without their masters' permission they were ever liable to punishment. " O for the day when slavery shall not be Where England rules, but all her sons be free;. When Western India, and Mauritia's isle, Loosed from their bands, shall learn at length to smile; When colour shall no longer man degrade, And Christ by all shall be alike obey'd." * See Sir Fowell Buxton's admirable work on the Slave Trade. 66 JAMAICA : Section II. — This state of things con- tinued until the year 1814, a year dis- tinguished by the pledge given for the abo- lition of the traffic by the representatives of the great powers of Europe at the Con- gress of Vienna, which led to discussions in the British Parliament on the subject of slavery as it existed in the colonies. At the same time awful disclosures were con- tinually being made by the African Asso- ciation, a society formed on the 14th of June, 1807, by the great philanthropists of the day, Clarkson, Wilberfbrce, Brougham, Stephen, Macaulay, Buxton, Allen and others, for the promotion of the general in- terests of the African race, and of which his Royal Highness the Duke of Glouces- ter was president. Missionaries of different denominations becoming more numerous, more familiar with the atrocities of the system, and less able to submit to the pru- dential restraints enjoined upon them by the societies to which they belonged, added their testimony as eye-witnesses to the mass of evidence already before the public, and the sympaties of the country were again powerfully excited. Mr. Wilberforce, now greatly enfeebled, was succeeded, as the great parliamentary champion of the African race, by Thomas Fowell Buxton, Esq., who, like his predecessor, with a heart deeply imbued with philanthropic feelings, and unappalled by the difficulties and obloquy which stared him in the face, in March, 1823, brought forward a resolu- tion in the House of Commons, " declaring that slavery was repugnant to the princi- ples of the British Constitution and of the Christian religion, and that it ought to be gradually abolished throughout the British dominions." It was intended that this re- solution should be at once succeeded by ameliorative measures ; and though the motion was rejected by the House, yet the feelings and sentiments of the nation were not to be disregarded ; and to allay the general excitement, one of a similar, though less comprehensive kind, was sub- stituted by Mr. Canning. This was at length adopted, and recommended to the consideration of the Colonial Legislature. It was received by them with indignation, and finally rejected with contempt and scorn. Ebullitions of feeling against the missionaries of different denominations, but against the Baptists missionaries in particu- lar, were now more violent than ever. They were denounced, both by the white portion of the populace, by the press (long the vehicle of malignant and vulgar defama- tion), and by the Colonial Legislature, as being in league with the Anti-Slavery So- ciety, by whom the Government was in- stigated to effect their ruin. In common with missionaries of other denominations, they were frequently cited before Commit- tees of the House of Assembly for the most contemptible of purposes — harassed with warrants for not serving in the militia, cir- cumscribed and impeded in their benevo- lent efforts by oppressive laws, and treated with all the indignity and virulence which prejudice and mortified tyranny could dic- tate. In Barbadoes and Demerara these feelings, no longer capable of control, were vented in the demolition of a Wesleyan chapel, accompanied by other outrages, which were consummated by the murder of the missionary Smith. These grievances, with the means adopt- ed for their redress, together with the factious opposition of the colonists to the reasonable requisitions of the Government, served to diffuse still more widely a know- ledge of the evils of the existing system, and had the effect of uniting all classes and societies of professing Christians in a prompt and determined effort for remedial measures. The Anti-Slavery Society was more than ever diligent in the diffusion of its publications — lecturers were appointed to traverse the country to inform more generally the public mind — the pulpit lent its aid to the same great object, as the re- sult of which, petitions from all parts of the land poured into both houses of Parlia- ment in such numbers that the appeals could no longer be withstood. The Colo- nial Legislature was requested by Lord Goderich, in 1831, to reconsider the de- spatches of Earl Bathurst in 1823. The recommendation was again treated with general contempt, while the most inflam- matory speeches were made throughout the country, both in public and private, against the missionaries and the British Government, accompanied by menaces of rebellion on the part of the white inhabi- tants against the parent state, and a trans- fer of their allegiance to America. In one intance they were accompanied by an act of lawless violence, connected with the Wesleyan missionary and chapel, at St. Anne's Bay. At night, while the white ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 67 company of the militia was on guard, the house of the Rev. Mr. RatclifFe, in which he, his wife, and children resided, was violently attacked by a party armed with fire-arms, who, without the slightest pro- vocation, lodged fourteen bullets within the walls. This occurred in December, 1826, and was brought before the House of Com- mons in the month of March following by Dr. Lushington. These circumstances had the effect of exciting the suspicions of the negroes that freedom bad been granted them by the King, but that it was withheld by their masters, which led to the resolu- tion on the part of some of the slaves in the parishes of St. James and Trelawney, to test the truth of the report by a refusal to work after the Christmas holidays, except for wages as freemen. Among the leaders and others in this movement were found individuals connected with the Baptist and other churches in the parish of St. James ; no sooner however was this known to the missionaries on the spot than they exerted themselves to the utmost to undeceive the misguided multitude. This object it is pro- bable they might have accomplished, but for the measures that were instantly adopt- ed by the authorities. Martial law was proclaimed, and the militia, composed chiefly of the planters in the districts, exas- perated to the direst revenge, commenced hostilities. Retaliation was provoked, and the most wanton and horrible cruelties per- petrated by the whites, accompanied by outrages on the Baptist missionaries, and the destruction of the Baptist and Wesleyan chapels in the neighbourhood. These atro- cities were sanctioned, and even abetted, with but one or two exceptions, by the magistrates and other local authorities, who at length committed the missionaries to prison on suspicion of their having instigat- ed the " rebellion." This suspicion was magnified into a charge, and they were tried for their lives. The vilest and most despicable means which diabolical malice and depraved prejudice could devise were employed to fix the guilt of this charge upon them, but not a single accusation could be substantiated. The principal suf- ferers in these shameful outrages, whose hardships and indignities were almost in- describable, were Messrs. Gardner, Bur- chell, Knibb, Abbott, Whitehorn, Baylis, Kingdon, Taylor, and Barlow, Baptists ; and Messrs. Bleby and Box, Wesleyans. But for the high patronage which they en- joyed, it is probable that both the Presby- terian missionaries and the Evangelical clergy would equally have shared in these disgraceful outrages. " Usually the best friends of mankind," says a quaint writer, " those who most heartily wish the peace and prosperity of the world, and most earnestly strive to pro- mote them, have all the disturbances and disasters happening charged on them by those fiery vixens who really do themselves embroil things, and raise combustions in the world." So in the present case. Fourteen chapels were destroyed belong- ing to the Baptist Missionary Society, with private houses and other property, amount- ing to 23,250/.* Six chapels belonging to * The following letters, which the author, who was then in England, received from his esteemed mission- ary brethren, the Rev. J. Clarke and H. C. Taylor, who were supplying his church in his absence, will illustrate the spirit by which these caluminated mis- sionaries were actuated, as well as the dangers which surrounded them. After stating that the rebellion was a contest carried on by wicked men for the perpetuation of slavery, Brother C. continues — " It is consoling to think that God will maintain his cause, and in his own time turn the councils of the wicked into foolishness. Our trust is in him : and daily we appear in his house to present our supplications at his throne of mercy in the name of our adorable Redeemer — and we know that we are regarded. For many weeks past we have kept a regular watch to protect the chapel, as we had good evidence that many wicked men had united in order to pull it down. " Three persons, not connected with us, came for- ward and made affidavits, certifying that they had been invited by a Mr. to join in this evil work. The case was represented at the Peace Office, and Mr. H. was bound over to keep the peace. But we are far from being secure, as prejudice still runs ex- ceedingly high, and those in power are quite as bad as others. " What a fearful tale will soon be told you, and is now being told of Jamaica ! What will be the conse- quences we cannot tell. Many a night have we lain down in your house in Spanish Town, expecting to be aroused before morning to attempt to prevent the destruction of the premises. Blessed be God! all is yet safe ; and we trust he will restrain the violence of wicked men, and overrule all past evils for the glory of his own great and holy name." — August 11, 1832. " Things are still unsettled," says Mr. T.; " the ne- groes do not fight, but fire places, and retire to the woods and hills. If reports are true, I by no means consider myself safe ; and I think it not very unlikely but that one or more of the ministers of religion will be sacrificed. The whites are thirsting for our blood. All is quiet, I am happy to say, on the south side of the island, so far as regards the slaves ; but as to the whites, they are striving with all their might to breed disturbances, by pulling down class-houses, threaten- ing the missionaries, and punishing the slaves for praying. I was on Monday had up to the Peace Of- fice. Three affidavits were sworn to against me for seditious preaching, but as the affidavits were contra- dictory of each other, the object of the parties was defeated. On the following Sabbath one of these ia- 68 JAMAICA : the Wesleyans were demolished, with a total loss of 60007. in property. To carry out a project long cherished and threaten- ed for expelling all the dissenting mission- aries from the island, and which it is sus- pected was the real origin of the insurrec- tion, a Colonial Church Union was formed, and a system of persecution continued, un- paralleled in the history of modern times. Meanwhile Mr. Knibb of the Baptist Mis- sionary Society, and Messrs. Duncan and Barry, of the Wesleyan body, sailed for England, followed by Mr. Burchell, whose united statements and appeals, accom- panied and sustained by the evidence fur- nished by themselves and others to both houses of parliament, on the subject of slavery in general, excited, to a degree hitherto unparalleled, the indignation of the British people, and the thought of ameliora- tive measures was lost in the determination, that slavery itself should cease. Not con- tent with inflicting sufferings almost beyond endurance upon the bodies of his wretched vassals, and consigning them to a prema- ture grave, the monster had now lifted up his palsied hand and attempted to interpose his malignant power between his victims and their Creator, as the only means of perpetuating his own existence. This was to wage war with Omnipotence, and his doom was sealed. Christians of every denomination, pa- triots and philanthropists of every rank and name, simultaneously arose and pe- titioned with united voice and with a firm- formers came again, thinking, probably, I should no- tice the Peace Office business, but I made no allusion to it whatever, determining, as I have ever done, to aim at winning souls. I therefore chose for my text — ' Except ye repent,' &c. " The chapel was very full ; several white people were there whom I never saw before. This day poor Brother Nichols and his wife came from St. Anne's Bay. A set of ruffians entered the chapel there by force on the Friday night about ten o'clock. They beat out the windows, and threw out the benches. Brother N. called out murder, and the depredators ran away. " Things are now more alarming. You have heard of the destruction of the chapels on the north side, but the Governor issued a Proclamation against it. This destruction of the chapels occurred when mar- tial law had ceased, not by the blacks, but by the whites ; who therefore are the rebels now ? " Troopers were about all last night. We go this morning to the Custos to know what is to be done. There is a rumour now abroad of a conspiracy to burn down all the chapels in Kingston and Spanish Town. Our people were guarding ours all last night ; the women, especially, are determined to defend it to the last. Several of our missionary brethren, with their wives, have fled hither for refuge," ness and determination not to be resisted or delayed, that liberty, immediate and un- conditional, the birth-right of every man, should be at once enjoyed by Africans and their descendants, throughout the British dominions, equally with other subjects of the realm. Section III. — The great cause, as it might be supposed, was espoused by the reformed parliament under Earl Grey, which assembled May the 14th, 1833, and was brought forward by Lord Stanley, then Secretary for the Colonies. The re- sult was the substitution of an apprentice- ship system during a period of twelve years, afterwards reduced to six years, with a compensation of twenty millions as an indemnity to the planters. This boon was hailed by the slaves and by their friends, both in England and the colonies, with the greatest public demonstrations of joy- The following is the substance of the Act introduced by Lord Stanley, and which passed the British parliament on this memorable occasion, one of the bright- est that stands upon the statute-book of English law and English freedom, the Magna Charta of negro rights : — " Be it enacted, that all and every one of the persons who on the first day of Au- gust, one thousand eight hundred and thirty-four, shall be holden in slavery within any such British colony as afore- said, shall, upon and from and after the said first day of August, one thousand eight hundred and thirty-four, become and be to all intents and purposes free, and dis- charged of and from all manner of slavery, and shall be absolutely and for ever manu- mitted ; and that the children thereafter born to any such persons, and the offspring of such children, shall in like manner be free from their birth ; and that from and after the first day of August, one thousand eight hundred and thirty-four, slavery shall be and is hereby utterly and for ever abolished and declared unlawful through- out the British colonies, plantations, and possessions abroad." In the meantime the Earl of Belmore, during whose administration these dis- graceful outrages occurred, was recalled, and the Earl of Mulgrave succeeded as Governor. By a happy combination of ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. wisdom, firmness and energy, added to liberal and enlightened views, his Excel- lency, now the Marquis of Normanby, re- stored tranquillity to the distracted commu- nity, and induced the legislature to accede to the proposals of the parent state. After nearly two years of almost ceaseless effort and annoyance his Excellency relinquished the government, a step to which he was urged by personal and relative affliction. The Marquis of Sligo was now appointed to see this great measure carried into effect, a duty which he nobly performed. And when at length the memorable day arrived on which this boon was to be be- stowed, it was welcomed and celebrated throughout the island with high and holy joy — welcomed and celebrated not only for the immediate blessings which followed in its train, but as the dawn of temporal liberty to the world, and the harbinger to the degraded sons of Africa of " A liberty Which monarchs cannot grant, nor all the pow'rs Of earth and hell confederate take away, Which whoso tastes can be enslaved no more — The liberty of heart derived from heaven." Man now ceased to be the property of man. The former slaves were now to labour, not at the caprice of an absolute owner, en- forced by the whip of an arbitrary and irresponsible task-master, but by settled rules. They were now to be under the influence of known and settled laws, admi- nistered by special and duly appointed magistrates, on sufficient evidence in open courts — their evidence was now received in a court of justice — they were admitted to a participation of civil privileges with freemen — they could rear their own chil- dren, and dispose of their own property : but this was all. They had not yet the right of self-disposal and self-management — not yet the privilege of selecting their own employments, or of choosing their own masters : and, as it is unreasonable to suppose that the faults of years were to be eradicated in a day, or the tyranny of the passions to be crushed in an hour — that the man who had treated the slave as a brute would regard him as a man and a brother from the simple act of manumis- sion, the humane and well-intentioned pro- visions of the Act were evaded and neu- tralized by local enactments and by partial and vicious adjudication. While, however, it is confessed that the system was less harsh and revolting than actual slavery in some of its features, it was far from being so in others. It was only a modification of slavery — a substitution of half measures for the whole: and hence it not only failed to accomplish the end designed, but in some respects was made an occasion of greater oppression than slavery itself — it was slavery disguised : " and disguise thyself as thou wilt, still, slavery, still thou art a bitter draught." During the short period of two years, 60,000 apprentices received, in the aggregate, one-quarter of a million of lashes, and 50,000 other punishments by the tread-wheel, the chain- gang, and other means of legalized tor- ture ; so that, instead of a diminution, there was a frightful addition to the mise- ries of the negro population, inducing a degree of discontent and exasperation among them never manifested under the previous system ; and which, but for the influence exerted by the Governor, the missionaries, and some of the special ma- gistrates, would, in all probability, have broken out into open and general rebellion. It was, in a word, a scheme fraught with greater difficulties in its operation than can be conceived. It was expensive, partial, criminal, and altogether useless — of no avail but for the purposes of dissension, strife and anarchy — " Nam timor eventus deterioris abest." It was unsatisfactory to all parties, and beneficial to none. In ad- dition to the evils it entailed on those more immediately concerned in its operation, it was a source of the most unparalleled diffi- culty, labour, and obloquy, to the noble- minded individuals under whose eventful and successive administrations it was car- ried on.* It was defective as a system abstractedly considered ; and it had, in ad- dition, to contend against obstacles insepa- rable from inveterate custom, and morally insurmountable. It therefore failed — and failed signally. It was obnoxious to the master — hateful to * "The whipping of females, you were informed by me, officially, was in practice; and I called upon you to make enactments to put an end to conduct so repugnant to humanity, and so contrary to law. So far from passing an Act to prevent the recurrence of such cruelty, you have in no way expressed your dis- approbation of it. I communicated to you my opinion, and that of the Secretary of State, of the injustice of the cutting off the hair of females in the House of Correction, previous to trial. You have paid no at- tention to the subject." — Speech of the Marquis of Sligo to the Jamaica Mouse of Assembly. 70 JAMAICA: the slave — and perplexing to the special magistrates. Placed, as these latter indi- viduals were, almost entirely at the mercy of the planters, few had the moral courage or the moral principle to withstand the consequences of a faithful and conscien- tious discharge of their duty. Among the few whom no bribes could seduce, and no threats intimidate — some resigned their office in disgust — others sunk beneath the pressure of excessive labour, anxiety, and persecution. Of those that survive, the names of Hill, Palmer, Maddan, Daugh- trey, Baynes, Grant, Bourne, and Kent, will be distinguished and cherished by the great mass of the inhabitants to the latest posterity. Slavery ivitt admit of no mo- dification. Under these circumstances, representations as to the nature and effects of the Apprenticeship System were soon made by the Baptist Missionaries ;* by the philanthropic Joseph Sturge and Thomas Harvey, who personally acquainted them- selves with its results; and successively by the noble-minded Governors, the Mar- quis of Sligoj" and Sir Lionel Smith ; and truth and justice for the last time stood forth and demanded the fulfillment of their claims. Within the short space of about six months, deputations, varying in num- ber from 140 to 400, assembled in London from different parts of the three kingdoms ; Downing-streetand Westminster Hall were again besieged ; and petitions, signed by upwards of one million of British subjects, in which 450,000 English, 135,000 Scotch, and upwards of 77,000 Irish females — a mighty host, marshalled and led on by the piety, talent, learning, eloquence, and phi- lanthropy of the best portion of the public * The following is a specimen of the language used towards the missionaries at this period by some of the members of the Honourable Plouse of Assembly. It was used by the Hon. A ^~^~ ' n a debate on a bill to legalize marriages by disslfeting ministers. — " The report of a committee appointed to inquire into the working of the Apprenticeship System would that day be presented, by which it would be clearly shown that the evil which now prevailed — that the non-working of the Apprenticeship System, indeed all the mischief of the present day — was to be attributed to the interference of the sectarian preach- ers ; they were a set of lawless miscreants in whom no faith was to be placed, from whom no security could be obtained. They had no reputation to lose, or character to give weight to their evidence in a court of justice." t The Marquis of Sligo, who is a large proprietor in Jamaica, nobly confirmed his sentiments by libera- ting all his apprentices before the act of final eman- cipation was carried, which had great influence on the abandonment of the system. press* — imperatively demanded the aboli- tion of the System on the ground of a vio- lation of the contract by the planters. For a time the boon was delayed, and the Bri- tish Lion was provoked to anger : he put forth his might, and the monster Slavery was no more. Section IV. — At length the advocates of liberty and the champions of the op- pressed reaped the glorious reward of their self-denying and philanthropic labours. On the glorious and never-to-be-forgotten 1st of August, 1838, 800,000 African bond- men were made fully and unconditionally free. " An act of legislation the most mag- nanimous and sublime in the annals of the world, and which will be the glory of Eng- land and the admiration of posterity, when her proudest military and naval achieve- ments shall have faded from the recollec- tions of mankind ;" an event which trans- pired at the most auspicious period of the history of the world — at a time of the most profound and general peace ever enjoyed since Augustus Ca?sar shut the gates of Janus — when the crown of the mightiest empire of the world had just been placed on the youthful brow of Victoria, the be- loved mistress of a free people. When a century shall have passed away — when statesmen are forgotten — when rea- son shall regain her influence over preju- dice and interest, and other generations are wondering at the false estimate their fore- fathers formed of human glory — " on the page of history one deed shall stand out in whole relief — one consenting voice pro- nounce" that the greatest honour England ever attained was when, with her Sovereign at her head, she proclaimed the slave is free, and established in practice what even America recognises in theory: that all men are created equal — that they are endoiced by their Creator ivith certain tmalienable rights — that among these are life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness. On the evening of the day preceding that which witnessed the actual bestowment of the inestimable boon on the apprentices of Jamaica, the towns and missionary sta- * Very valuable assistance was especially given on this occasion in London by " The Sun," " The Globe," " The Patriot," " The Morning^Herald," and the diffe- rent religious periodicals, and seconded by a large por- tion of the provincial press, as well as by that of Ire- land and Scotland. ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 71 tions throughout the island were crowded with people especially interested in the event, and who, filling the different places of worship, remained in some instances performing different acts of devotion until the day of liberty dawned, when they saluted it with the most joyous acclaim ; others, before and after similar services, dispersed themselves in different directions through the towns and villages singing the national anthem and devotional hymns, occasionally rending the air with their ac- clamations of "Freedom's come;" " We're free, we're free; our wives and our chil- dren are free." On the following day the places of worship were thrown open, and crowded almost to suffocation; in many instances even the whole premises of a missionary establishment were occupied. Sermons were preached applicable to the event, devout thanksgivings to Almighty God at the throne of grace, mingled with songs of praise, ascended up to Heaven from every part of the land. The scenes presented exceeded all description. The whole island exhibited a state of joyous ex- citement as though miraculously chastened and regulated by the hallowed influences of religion.* After the services of the day at Spanish Town, which were deeply interesting, the congregation collected in and about the Baptist Chapel, numbering full 7000 souls, were to be addressed by his Excellency the Governor. These, with the children of the schools, which amounted to 2000, accordingly walked in procession to the square opposite the Government House, headed by their pastor, displaying flags and banners, which bore a variety of interesting inscriptions. Although joy brightened every countenance, the procession moved on with all the apparent solemnity of a funeral, and in a few minutes after it made its appear- ance, his Excellency the Governor, sur- rounded by the bishop, his honour the Chief Justice, and other high official func- tionaries, addressed the immense mass of apprentices thus congregated, in a speech characterized by much simplicity, affection, and energy. During the delivery of the speech, his Excellency was greeted by reiterated and enthusiastic cheering, being * Even the irreligious part of the community on this memorable occasion seemed inspired with re- ligious feeling, and flocked in crowds to the House of God. regarded by the people as their friend and benefactor. After about an hour, the mass having given three cheers for the Queen and three for Sir Lionel, followed their pastor to the Baptist mission premises, cheering him in the most enthusiastic manner. Arrived in the immediate neighbourhood of the chapel, the multitude surrounded him, grasped him in their arms, and bore him, in the midst of shouts and caresses, into his house. The enthusiasm of the mul- titude being now wound up to the highest pitch, they declared themselves unwilling to separate without greeting the different flags. The flags and banners were accord- ingly unfurled, and for nearly an hour the air rang with the shouts of exultation that were thus poured forth from thousands of joyous hearts. The school-children had remained be- hind to sing several airs before the Govern- ment house, and just as the mass were cheering the last banner, upon which was inscribed in large capitals, " We are free! we are free ! our wives and our children are free!" they all entered, and, adding their shrill voices to the rest, raised a shout that seemed to rend the air. Over the two prin- cipal entrances to the chapel were three triumphal arches, decorated with leaves and flowers, and crowned with flags, bear- ing the several inscriptions of " Freedom's come," " Slavery is no more," " Thy chains are broken, Africa is free;" while in addition to these, and the flags and ban- ners borne by the procession, one was seen waving from the cupola of the metropolitan school-rooms,* bearing " the 1st of August, 1838," ornamented by a painted wreath of laurel. The bethel flag floated over the chapel, and the Union Jack over the minis- ter's house, which is situated in the mid- dle of the two. ORDER OF PROCESSION. Teacher of the Sunday-School, with Union Jack. Master of Metropolitan Day-School — Mr. Kirby. Superintendent of Sabbath-School, Wm. Groom, Esq. Children and Teachers, bearing at regular intervals flags and banners with the subjoined devices, " Education, social order, and religion." " Wisdom and knowledge the stability of the times." " Knowledge is power." " Peace, industry, and commerce." "Freedom's bright day hath dawned at last." The Pastor. Deacons of the Church. Connected with the Mission premises, 72 JAMAICA : 10. 11. 12. Two silk flags — " Glory to God," " The slave is free." Singers. Two silk flags — " Victoria," " Sir Lionel Smith." JVlass of about 500 persons. Large banner borne by four — " 1st August, 183S." Mass of about 500. Twosilkflags, "EarlofMulgrave," "Marquis of Sligo." Mass of about 500. Three silk flags — " Sturge," " Brougham," " Liberty." Mass of about 500. Flags with the following inscriptions were distributed variously throughout the remaining part of the procession : 1. " Am I not a man and a brother ?" 2. "The day of our freedom." 3. "England, land of liberty, of light, of life." 4. " Ethiopia bends her knee to God and gives him glory." 5. " Freedom shall henceforth for ever be enjoyed throughout the British empire." 6. " Equal rights and privileges." 7. " Philanthropy, patriotism, and religion, have, under God, achieved for us this glorious tri- umph.'' 8. "Emancipation in peace, in harmony, in safety, and acquiescence, on all sides." 9. " Truth, justice, and right have at length pre- vailed." 'Let strife and conflict from these lands be driven, And men and masters fill the path to heaven." 1 May the cause of mercy triumph in both hemi- spheres." ■ The 1st of August, 1838, never to be forgotten through all generations." On the evening of the following day a charitable bazaar was opened at the metropolitan school-rooms, which were most beautifully illuminated and adorned by characteristic transparencies. His Ex- cellency the Governor and suite were present; his honour the Chief Justice and lady, several members of the Council and House of Assembly, several military offi- cers, and most of the respectable and influ- ential inhabitants of the town and neigh- bourhood. " Altogether the number of visiters and persons assembled could not," says a respectable spectator, " have been less than 4000." Several rural fetes were held on different estates in the same parish in commemoration of the event, attended also in some instances by his Excellency the Governor and suite, and in all cases by proprietors or their representatives, as also by magistrates and other respectable por- tions of the community. Of these, it may not be uninteresting to afford the following specimen which occurred at the Farm Pen, the property of Lord Carrington, and which united the peasantry of that nobleman and Lord Seaford. From previous reports, and the general belief that his Excellency the Governor and suile would honour the entertainment with their presence, considerable interest was created throughout the neighbourhood. As soon as his Excellency and aide-de- camp arrived within a few hundred yards of the scene of conviviality, his Excellen- cy's horses were instantaneously detached from the carriage, and replaced by some of the most athletic young men of the two properties, who drew it along at full speed, amidst the waving of banners and the deafening cheers of the people. His Excel - lency was then conducted to a kind of rus- tic saloon prepared for the occasion, where he was received by the Honourable Joseph Gordon, the attorney of the estate. The tables were stretched along a beautiful lawn between the great house and the negro village, and were enclosed in their whole extent, which could not have been less than 200 feet, by a beautiful and highly-finished fabric of evergreens, adorned with chaplets and festoons of flowers. The exterior pre- sented to the eye, at a distance, the ap- pearance of a spacious arcade in the Gothic style — the graceful cocoa-nut branch taste- fully woven, forming the numerous arches and columns. The inside was fitted up in a style still more chaste and elegant, being, in addition to the ornaments culled from Nature's garden, supplied with various articles of household furniture, and adorned with flags of different colours, on which were inscribed the names of the illustrious living characters who, under God, had achieved the glorious triumph they were met to celebrate. Every thing being announced as ready, the company, numbering about 300, ad- vanced to the repast. The minister then invoked the divine blessing upon it in the verse beginning with — " Be present at our table, Lord," which was sung by the assembly with such a becoming seriousness as gave a tone to the whole proceedings of the evening. The Honourable Joseph Gorden presided. On his right was seated his Excellency the Governor. The other guests were vari- ously distributed around, among whom ap- peared several ladies and gentlemen of the first respectability. The tables were very tastefully laid out, the necessary apparatus having been kind- ly lent by different respectable inhabitants in the neighbourhood, and the viands, ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 73 which were partially supplied in the same manner, were abundant and of excellent quality. The appetite at length subdaed, the whole company rose and gave thanks by singing — "Praise God from whom all blessings flow." Although scarcely any intoxicating drinks were used, it was natural on such an occa- sion that toasts should be given. The pre- sident accordingly gave the health of Her Majesty the Queen ; this was responded to with rapturous applause, and was succeed- ed by a verse of the national anthem, which was sung with great effect. The health of Sir Lionel Smith, as the representative of Her Majesty, followed, and the words, "to the health of our excellent Governor" were « no sooner pronounced than one simultane- ous and enthusiastic shout of applause burst forth from the assembled multitude. The choir again struck up — " Joy, for every yoke is broken, And the oppressed all go free, Let us hail it as a token That our much loved land may be Blessed of the Lord most high, Ruler of the earth and sky. "In blest communion may we all Keep holy freedom's festival; Let shades of difference be forgot, Parties and sects remembered not, While Christians all with joy agree To keep the Negro Jubilee." His Excellency returned thanks in a very excellent and appropriate speech, ex- pressing his confident hope of the future prosperity of the country as the result of the late glorious event, and exhorting both masters and servants to the cultivation of feelings of mutual confidence and good will, as the best means of securing it. It would convey but an inadequate idea of the reality to say that the advice was ap- preciated. It was responded to by accla- mation, amidst which his Excellency re- tired, highly gratified with everything he had heard and seen. The late noble-minded and beloved Governors, the Earl of Mulgrave and the Marquis of Sligo, were remembered with equal honour and enthusiasm. The head man on the property next arose, and in a respectful manner request- ed that he might be allowed to propose a toast, adding that he was sure it would meet with the warmest approbation of all present : it was the health, long life, and happiness, both in time and eternity, of 6 Lords Carrington and Seaford, with that also of their esteemed and liberal-minded attorney, Joseph Gordon, Esq., a proposi- tion that was loudly greeted, as was also Mr. Gordon's acknowledgment, both on behalf of the two noble Lords and himself. The scene was overpowering, and could not fail to produce a salutary effect on all present. This was closed by singing to the tune " America" — " O Lord, upon Jamaica shine With beams of sovereign grace, Reveal thy power through all our coasts, And show thy smiling face ; " Amidst this isle exalted high Do thou our glory stand, And like a wall of guardian fire Surround our favoured land." • Feelings of esteem and gratitude were expressed towards the minister and his family present on the occasion, in which the honourable president united, as also to the special magistrates of the district, who severally expressed their obligations in return. Cheers were now given for Lord Mulgrave, for Lord Sligo, for Clark- son, Wilberforce, Buxton, Brougham, and Sturge ; for the ladies of Great Britain and Ireland ; for the missionaries and other philanthropists in Jamaica, and for the friends of liberty throughout the world. The meeting then separated, each indivi- dual going peacefully and joyfully to his home. This was nearly the last of the entertainments held in commemoration of this glorious event, and it may not be im- proper, therefore, to follow the account with a few observations. The conduct of the newly emancipated peasantry throughout the island would have done credit to Christians of the most civi- lized country in the world. At none of their repasts was there anything Baccha- nalian. Their behaviour was modest, un- assuming, and decorous in a high degree. There was no crowding, no vulgar fami- liarity ; all were as courteous, civil, and obliging to each other as members of one harmonious family ; all were also clean and neat in their persons and attire. There was no dancing, no noisy mirth, no carous- ing, no gambling, or any of the rude pas- times and sports which often disgrace sea- sons of public rejoicing in England ; neither did there seem to be the least desire on the part of the people so to commemorate the 74 JAMAICA event. All expressed their sense of the obligations under which they were laid to a faithful and conscientious discharge of the duties they owed to their masters and to one another, as well as to the civil au- thorities. Ministers of religion were ear- nestly invited to preside, or to direct them in all their arrangements. God was uni- versally recognised as the giver of the bounties enjoyed, and from first to last He was regarded as the Great Author of their deliverance from bondage. Their conduct was admitted by every respectable be- holder, and even by those who were not in- fluenced by the best of motives in mingling with the spectators, as unexceptionable. The masters, who in many cases were present, frankly recognised the new-born liberty of their former dependents, and congratulated them on the boon they had received, while both expressed their de- sires that all past differences and wrongs might be forgiven. Harmony and cheer- fulness smiled on every countenance, and the demon of discord for a season disap- peared. On some of the properties where these commemorative festivals were held, the people, with a few individual excep- tions, went to work on the following day, while many of them presented their first week of free labour as an offering of good will to their masters. Thus, the period from which the worst consequences were apprehended, passed away in peace, in harmony, and in safety. Not a single instance of violence or insub- ordination, of serious disagreement or of intemperance, so far as could be ascertain- ed, occurred in any part of the island. Nor was there any interruption, on the part of the labourers, to the ordinary cul- tivation or business. Commended for their past behaviour, encouraged and urged by ministers of all denominations to continue to exemplify their fitness for the boon they had received, as well as to facilitate the progress of emancipation in America, in the islands that surrounded them, and throughout the world, by a continuation of industrial habits for reasonable wages, the greater part appeared on the different properties on the Monday of the following week. Most of the estates, from the in- creased labour that had been expended on them previously, and which had been ob- tained at a high price from the apprentice in his own time to the neglect of his own provision-grounds, were not in immediate need of labourers ; and thus, to the aston- ishment of the newly-made freemen, their offers of service were in some cases reject- ed, and they themselves treated with in- difference or hauteur. It soon became evident that a general determination had been formed to take advantage of the feel- ings and dispositions thus displayed, and render them available to an uncontrollable lust of avarice and power. In a word, freedom was sought to be made more abun- dantly compensative than slavery ; and now was the time to make the attempt. For this purpose the most oppressive and impolitic expedients were adopted. In many cases the domestic stock of the pea- santry, their provision-grounds, and even their houses, were destroyed. In others, and which was general, demands were made for rent of houses and grounds from every inmate of a family, and to an extent which more than equalled in a given time the amount of wages received by them conjointly — exactions which would have produced a larger revenue to the proprietor than the agricultural products of his estate. These and similar acts of oppression were justly but temperately resisted. Bickerings and heartburnings were the result. The planters persisted in their designs ; and at length multitudes of the labourers were compelled to sacrifice their feelings of at- tachment to their domiciles, and to esta- blish themselves in their own freeholds. Hence, and from no other cause, arose those reports of insolence and idleness which were so widely and perseveringly circulated- against the peasantry. It is delightful to add that the injustice and im- policy of such conduct have now become generally manifest ; so that the causes of mutual dissatisfaction are now to a con- siderable degree extinct. There are, how- ever, some laws, as already noticed, which press unfairly on the great mass of the people ; but it is hoped that, from motives of good policy as well as from good feel- ing, they will be speedily annulled. In other respects, equal right and liberty are enjoyed ; and, with these privileges, peace, prosperity, and happiness. " Great was the boon, my country, when you gave To man his birthright, freedom to the slave, Rights to the wronged, and to the glorious rolls Of British citizens a million souls — Their growing minds from slavery's sink to lift, And make them worthy of the God-like gift." . ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 75 CHAPTER XII. INTELLECTUAL CHARACTER OF THE BLACK PEOPLE UNDER SLAVERY. Ignorance of Arts and Sciences — Of Reading, Arith- metic, Mechanical Arts, Civil Polity — Alleged De- ficiency of Mental Capacity — Establishment and Operation of Schools — The Negro under Cultiva- tion and Freedom — Notions of his Natural Inferi- ority disproved — Proposal for the establishment of a College — The great importance and advantages of such an Institution — Decline of Schools — Ap- peal for these objects to the British Public. The best informed among the slaves imported into Jamaica were the Mandin- goes, and those of neighbouring nations from the banks of the Senegal. Some of these, especially the chiefs and princes of the tribes, displayed some acquaintance with Arabic, but their knowledge of the language generally was very superficial. Very few had any idea of the art of com- putation by figures, nor did the great bulk of them display any acquaintance with the simplest form of lettered knowledge. Ac- cording to a tradition current among them, they were under an impression that they were prohibited the knowledge of letters by a decree of the Almighty — a tradition which it is probable originated with their oppressors for purposes by no means diffi- cult to imagine. They believed that at the creation of the world there was both a tvhite and a black progenitor, and that the black was origi- nally the favourite. To try their disposi- tions, the Almighty let down two boxes from Heaven, of unequal dimensions, of which the black man had the preference of choice. Influenced by his propensity to greediness, he chose the largest, and the smaller one consequently fell to the share of the white. " Buckra box," the black people are represented as saying, " was full up wid pen, paper, and whip, and ne- gers, wid hoe and bill, and hoe and bill for neger to dis day." Previous to the year 1823 there were not more than one or two schools in the whole island expressly for the instruction of the black population. Hence they were generally ignorant of the art of reading ; while their improvement was universally opposed by the planters as inimical to the future peace and prosperity of the island. It is generally admitted that they were not deficient in taste or ability for music, but their songs, which were usually im- promptu, were destitute of poetry or poetic images. On estates, or in particular dis- tricts, there were usually found one or more males or females, who, resembling the improvis*atori or extempore bards of Italy and ancient Britain, composed lines and sung them on their festive occasions. These ballads had usually a ludicrous re- ference to the white people, and were gene- rally suggested by some recent occur- rence.* They were alike ignorant of any method for computing the 'periods of time. The only means by which any of them as- certained, with any degree of certainty, the date of particular events, was by a kind of artificial memory, such as a recur- rence to remarkable seasons of the year, to earthquakes, and hurricanes. Some of them calculated by the revolutions of the moon, their Christmas carnivals, or the arrivals and departures of Governors. Hence but kw could fix any event nearer than twelve months from the period of its occurrence ; and scarcely any of them were acquainted with their own age, the age of their children, or that of their do- mestic animals. With the exception of the Aradas, and one or two other tribes from the Gold Coast, they were almost wholly unacquainted with the mechanical arts and manufactures, while of civil po- lity or the use of civil institutions they were equally ignorant. Instances, indeed, were common in which interruptions of social peace and petty misdemeanors aris- ing among themselves were decided by the head men on the property, or in the neigh- bourhood where they occurred ; but their decisions were for the most part arbitrary, selfish, and vindictive, being usually given either under the influence of bribery, fa- vour, or intemperance. For this latter purpose, intoxicating drinks were fre- quently supplied to them before they pro- * " Sangaree kill de captain, O dear, he must die! New rum kill de sailor, O dear, he must die ; Hard work kill de neger, O dear, he must die. La, la, la, la," &c. The following is frequently sung in the streets: " One, two, tree, All de same; Black, white, brown, All de same, All desame. One, two, tree," &c. 76 JAMAICA: ceeded to adjudicate from a superstitious notion that intoxication was absolutely es- sential to a proper understanding and dis- posal of the case. Enthralled and bowed down by a system that reduced them to the level of the brute, and at the same time carefully excluded by their superiors from every means of improvement, they were altogether destitute of taste and genius. Unallured by the enjoyments of civilized society and by whatever is sublime and beautiful in natural scenery ; — the dwarfs of the rational world, their intellect rising only to a confused notion and imperfect idea of the general objects of human know- ledge ; — their whole thoughts, indeed, con- fined within the range of their daily em- ployments and the wants of savage life. By some writers they have been described as an inferior species of the human family, incapable of advancing beyond a certain point in the acquisition of knowledge — the connecting link between the animal and intellectual economies, affiliated to the ourang-outang, and, like that animal, ac- tuated not by reason but by instinct. Hence they were said to be unable to com- bine ideas, to compare, to argue, to judge, or to do any thing comparable with the performances of perfect men. In pursu- ance of the infamous theory which sought their affinity with the monsters of the woods, they are represented by a Jamaica historian and planter,* unable to place a table square in a room from a defect of vi- sion similar to that of an ourang-outang. " I have known them fail in this," says he, " after numberless endeavours, and it is the same in other things, so that such as are bred carpenters and bricklayers are often unable, after many tedious and re- peated trials with the rule and plumb-line, to do a piece of work straight which an apprentice boy in England would perform with one glance of his eye." Hume, in his observations on the native African, says, "They are inferior to the rest of the species, and utterly incapable of the higher attainments of the mind." Montesquieu pronounced them not hu- man beings, but as occupying an interme- diate rank below the whites, and destined by their Creator to be the slaves of their superiors. An attempt has been made to trace the affiliation of some of the tribes, Lorij particularly the Angolahs, the Whydahs, and the inhabitants of Benguela, with the ourang-outang, and a conclusion has been drawn to the advantage of the latter in the supposition of their possessing the same means of improvement. Such was the state, and such the opinions entertained of these poor degraded beings by their lordly task-masters, as well as by the disciples of a proud and false philosophy, and hence the brutal treatment to which they were doomed and the degrading epithets by which they were designated. It now re- mains to exhibit the contrast between their past and present intellectual condition, and thus assert for them that rank in the scale of being which they are destined by na- ture and Providence to attain. It has been stated that but few instances have occurred in which the negroes im- ported into Jamaica displayed any acquain- tance with the arts and sciences. Nor, owing to a want of the necessary oppor- tunities, are many to be found at the pre- sent day who possess any thing like an acquaintance with these branches of know- ledge. It is otherwise, however, with re- gard to elementary education. Such has been the progress of school instruction, within the last few years especially, that thousands of adults are now enjoying its advantages. By the published reports of 1841, there were belonging to different denominations of Christians throughout the island, as nearly as it could be ascertained from the imperfect data supplied, about 186 day- schools, 100 Sabbath-schools, and 20 or 30 evening-schools ; the latter chiefly for the instruction of adults. Of the day-schools, 48 are said to have been connected with the National Church, 22 with the Mico Charity, 25 with the Wesleyan, 61 with the Baptist, 14 with the Church, and 16 with the London Mis- sionary Societies, independently of those belonging to the Moravians and Presbyte- rians, the statistics of which the writer has not been able to procure. These alto- gether are reported to contain about 62,240 scholars ; but, deducting for irregularity of attendance, for Sabbath-scholars inclu- ded in the lists of day-schools, for the number of schools formerly connected with the National Church and Mico Charity which have been since closed, the present number is estimated at about 30,000. ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 77 As an evidence of the proficiency that is being made by these children of Ethiopia in the various branches of learning taught in these institutions, it is only necessary to introduce one or two extracts from reports which have been published on the spot by disinterested individuals, who have attended examinations of the scholars. The extracts will refer to the Metropolitan schools in Spanish Town,* established in 1825, as their operations are personally known to the writer, but they may be adduced as specimens of all the well-regulated schools on the island. Says a gentleman in 1830, but five years after their establishment, " I witnessed the examination of the chil- dren in the lower classes with peculiar pleasure and interest ; but the elder chil- dren in the upper classes truly filled my mind with wonder and admiration. After reading portions of the Holy Scriptures and the ' History of Greece,' they were very minutely interrogated on those por- tions, and their answers were so correct that I could scarcely help blushing at my own ignorance. Their facility in arithme- tic was surprising — sums in Reduction, Proportion, Practice, Fellowship, and Vul- gar Fractions, were worked with such ra- pidity, that the examiner could scarcely keep pace with them. In the sciences of geography and astronomy the whole school appeared enthusiastic ; the whole world, as it were in a moment, was divided into continents, islands, oceans, seas, and lakes : zones, longitude and latitude, the twelve signs of the zodiac, motions of the earth and its distance from the sun, were all described with an expertness and accu- racy I could scarcely have believed. Upon the whole, it far surpassed all that I ever saw in England." These, it will be re- membered, were children of negroes, or their immediate descendants, very few of whom five years before had seen a book, and who in their habits and manners dif- fered but little from those in a state of savage nature. Similar testimony was borne by the Honourable Alexander Bravo, a large pro- prietor, who presided at an examination of the same schools in 1839. "The performances of the infant class were indeed astonishing. In spelling, read- * These schools, during eleven years, have been supported chiefly by the London Central Negro's Friend Society. ing, writing, recitation, grammar, and natural philosophy, in which some mere children had actually made proficiency, marks of improvement were exhibited in every class ; the same in arithmetic. The children were many of them very profi- cient in geography and the use of the globes, but I must not restrain the expres- sions of my admiration as well as surprise at the exhibition of the boys in geometry. Their demonstrations were well examined and found perfectly correct ; and I will not withhold the pleasing and amusing fact, that one of the scholars had shown his own ingenuity, as well as the practical utility of the science, in the construction, from wood, of a most ingenious pair of compas- ses, which had been imitated and percepti- bly improved upon by the other scholars of the class." To these testimonies the writer cannot forbear adding that of another im- partial witness, who was present at the ex- amination of the same schools in 1842, and who signs himself " A Stranger in Ja- maica." At this meeting the Honourable Judge Bernard presided, and Sir Joseph de Courcey Laffan, one of the directors of the African Civilization Society, with many other gentlemen of respectability, attended as deeply interested spectators. This tes- timony is the more important, as the most successful competitors on the occasion were two black boys, one the son of an African in the army, and the other the son of a re- cently emancipated slave.* After referring with great satisfaction to the progress of the younger classes, he continues : — " The elder classes also read in Scripture with great satisfaction to the visiters. They were then examined in ciphering, which task they performed correctly, as the solu- tions to their questions were exhibited to the visiters to avoid even the shadow of a fallacy. Some of the older boys answer- ed geometrical questions with great preci- sion, showing that they must have under- stood the subject well. I was equally amused with the elocutive part of the ex- amination. Some of the children had com- mitted long pieces to memory for recita- tion. The visiters expressed their admi- ration of the exhibitions by continued de- monstrations of applause." In addition to these acquisitions they possessed also a * Alexander Fuller, now gone as a missionary to A frica. 78 JAMAICA : considerable knowledge of civil and sacred geography, of biblical antiquities, and of the emblems, figures, parables, types, and most remarkable passages and chapters of the Bible. There was scarcely one who, besides his other acquisitions, was not able to recite chapters of the Bible and hymns from memory. On a former occasion one little boy repeated two hundred and thirty- eight hymns and three chapters, compris- ing sixty-six verses, almost without mis- take or hesitation. A little girl recited, with equal facility and correctness, forty- nine hymns and eight chapters of the Bible, the chapters containing two hundred and forty verses. The two boys, to whom al- lusion has been made, and who attracted the particular notice of Sir Joseph Laffan, exhibited specimens of beautiful penman- ship and maps of their own construction. A similar testimony to the astonishing proficiency of many of the negro children in the various branches of useful know, ledge, has been borne by their excellencies Sir Lionel Smith and Sir Charles Metcalfe, who have honoured the schools with their presence at the annual examination of the scholars. The two school-mistresses and the master, superintendents of the different de- partments of these schools, were once slaves, and acquired all the knowledge they pos- sessed in the institution over which they now so ably preside. By the operations of the normal schools, of which there are several, a considerable number of native young men and women have been quali- fied for the important situation of teachers, and in most cases are conducting the schools under their charge as efficiently as masters and mistresses from Europe. In addition to what has been said of the proficiency of the negroes in the various branches of scholastic knowledge, their at- tainments in music and psalmody must not be omitted. Most of them are possessed of fine voices, and are by no means defi- cient in taste. The singing at many places of religious worship, where the choir is composed almost entirely of blacks and their descendants, is but very little inferior to that at places of worship in England ; and, were the same advantages enjoyed by the one class as by the other, not the slightest difference would be discernible. Hundreds of them are self-taught profi- cients in the use of the various European instruments of music. Many can play beautifully on the violin, the clarionet, and the flute, without a knowledge of notes; and when regularly instructed in the science are by no means inferior in ^skill and execution to the whites. The band of the 2nd West Indian Regiment, now in Spanish Town, is composed almost entire- ly of liberated or recaptured Africans from Spanish and Portuguese slave-ships, and their performances will bear a comparison with those of any other regimental band in her Majesty's service. Any imputation of ignorance of the me- chanic arts and manufactures now cast upon the black population of Jamaica would only excite the ridicule or contempt of those who are personally acquainted with them. There are now to be found amongst the black population throughout the country, comprehending individuals of each tribe, operatives, mechanics, and masons, carpenters, coopers, blacksmiths, sailors, pilots ; and it may be added, from their knowledge of the properties of medi- cinal herbs, and their skill in applying them to different disorders, veterinary surgeons and medical men ; whilst in the towns are also shoemakers, cabinetmakers, carvers and gilders, watchmakers, jewel- lers, &c. &c, who manifest as much skill, and perform their work with as much ac- curacy and taste, as workmen of the same description in England. Most of the houses and public buildings — churches, chapels, court-houses — were built chiefly by slaves ; and to the slaves equally with the free blacks and people of colour have the white inhabitants been indebted, not only for their common works of art, but for nearly every article of local manufacture. So far from being now ignorant of civil polity and of the use of civil institutions, it is questionable whether any people in the world, placed in the same circumstances, possesses an equally correct acquaintance with these subjects ; whilst the superior style of cottage architecture every where apparent since freedom (when such cot- tages became their own), their furniture, and the gardens that surround them, are sufficient refutations of the charge of de- ficiency of taste for the useful and orna- mental. Not less unfounded is the impu- tation that they are deficient in inventive and imitative genius. Even among the most untutored of the African race these ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 79 I qualities have been sometimes displayed in 1 a degree truly astonishing. They have been manifested not only in the construc- tion and manufacture of articles of domes- tic use, but also (and that without any pre- vious instruction) in the higher branches of mechanics. Their locks and bolts, together with oiher contrivances for security and convenience, are a sufficient evidence of the truth of this assertion ; to which may be added, their contrivances for cooking, manufacturing sugar of their own produc- ion, as well as various other things of do- mestic utility. The faculties of wit and imitation in the legro race are also remarkable. Scarcely iny foible or peculiarity of gesture or ac- :ent is discoverable, in a stranger especial- y, but it is mimicked to the life, often to he no small amusement of groups of spec- itors. Instances have frequently occurred i which white men have seen themselves xhibited as subjects of amusement to the k'hole fraternity of a negro village, and an nstance is recorded in which it afforded a alutary lesson to the object of ridicule. It /as in the case of a drunken planter. [earing on a certain occasion the sound f considerable merriment in the direction f his negro settlement, curiosity induced m secretly to ascertain the cause, when beheld a negro personifying his own stures and habits when in a state of in- ication, amidst the convulsive laughter the multitudes of men, women, and dren gathered around him. The whole f; v.ie had such an effect upon him that he » ;:x again indulged in similar excesses. r imitative faculty is equally displayed < 3 acquisition of trades and arts. Thou- s of them are not at all inferior to r of the whites, either in sound sense , sneral information. In a word, the h skin and the woolly hair constitute inly difference which now exists be- : 1 multitudes of the emancipated pea- y of Jamaica and the tradesmen and ;ulturists of England. |ior are the intellectual faculties of this ; mniated and oppressed people in any . . oect inferior to the rest of the species; t y have simply been suspended from action, and the absence of those influences nich were necessary to their developement. •lany of their common adages are as much distinguished by shrewdness and sagacity as the maxims and proverbs of more civi- lized nations. To convey an impression of covetousness, with reference to any in- dividual, they say, " Him covetous, like star-apple," because that fruit is distin- guished for its tenacity. of adhesion to the tree. When they wish to represent du- plicity, they say " Him hab two faces, like star-apple leaf," the leaf of the star-apple tree being of two colours, a bright green above and a buff below. To convey the impression of wisdom, forethought, and peaceableness of disposition, they say, "Softly water run deep." "When man dead grass grow at him door," expressive of the forgetfulness and disregard by which death is succeeded. " Poor man never vex," denoting the humility which is usually the accompaniment of poverty. Mr. Edwards mentions an instance of shrewdness and sagacity on the part of a negro servant which is not often surpassed. Exhausted by a long journey he had fallen asleep. On being awoke, and told some- what sharply that his master was angry because " him da call, call, and him keep on sleep, and no heary," he facetiously re- plied, " Sleep no heb massa." " Wilberforce," said a negro on one oc- casion, in the midst of a group of his com- panions — "Wilberforce — dat good name for true ; him good buckra ; him want fo make we free ; and if him can't get we free no oder way him will by force.'''* During an examination of a black ser- vant in the Catechism, he was asked by the clergyman what- he was made of? " Of mud, massa," was the reply. On being told he should say " Of dust," he answered, " No, massa, it no do, no tick togedder." A negro, when in a state of heathenism, contracted a debt to a considerable amount. Being frequently importuned for payment, he resolved to be christened, and afterwards, on application being made, replied, with considerable nctivete, " Me is new man now ; befo me name Quashie, now me Thomas, derefo Thomas no pay Quashie debt." A gentleman is reported to have said to a Christian negro, " What do you think of * A negro, having purchased a hat, was observed to take it from his head on the fall of a shower of rain, and to manifest considerable anxiety to preserve it from the wet. On being remonstrated with for his supposed stupidity in thus leaving his head exposed, he wittily observed — "Hat belong to me, head belong to Massa." 80 JAMAICA: the doctrine of election?" He made no reply, but instantly brought five pieces of wood. These he placed on the table, and then taking two of the five, leaving the other three, ho said, " There, massa, dat what we mean by election." The following anecdote in illustration can scarcely be withheld. It was related to the author by the son of the principal party, as an evidence of the ingratitude and ferocity of the negro character. A white man had often beaten one of his slaves very unmercifully for the most trifling offences ; the latter, after a punish- ment unusually severe, preferred a com- plaint against him before a bench of magis- trates, which had the effect of securing a reprimand by them to the master. Highly provoked with the presumption of the slave for thus daring to expose him in open court, the master meditated the most determined revenge. Some time after, sending the slave into a summer-house situated in a secluded spot in his garden, he resolved to wreak upon him the vengeance he had meditated. Instantly seizing a large stick, he entered the house, and securing the door, vociferated, " Now, villain, I'll teach you to take me before the magistrates. You try to injure my character, do you — I'll make you pay dear for it, I'll warrant you. Nobody can see me here, and you'll have no witness now," at the same time beginning to beat him unmercifully. The slave, being a powerful man, on hearing the latter sentence, immediately seized the weapon, and wresting it from the master's hand, retaliated on him, saying, "If me no hab witness to prosecute massa, massa no heb witness fo prosecute me," and continued the flagellation until the assailant was obliged to cry for mercy, which was shown him by the victorious Quashy, on condition of a solemn pledge by the master that he would never notice the circumstance to his disadvantage — a promise which, from self- ish motives, he was induced to preserve inviolate. The lowest and most unintelligent of the tribes are the Mungolas. Their stupidity, however, has often been more feigned than real ; thus, when attracting the gaze of multitudes at their annual carnivals by their grotesque appearance and ridiculous gambols, they have been often known to indulge in the keenest satire and merriment at their own expense, repeating in chorus, " Buckra tink Mungola nigger fool make him tan so." So far from being more de- ficient in acuteness and discrimination than other men, none can penetrate more deeply than the negro into character, or form an opinion of strangers with greater correct- ness and precision. The idea of their inability, even in their most untutored state, to combine ideas and pursue a chain of reasoning is equally erroneous, as is evident from the following defence, said to have been made before a bench of justices in one of the country parishes by certain negroes who had run away from their work. The judges on the occasion were two medical men. The complaint having been preferred, the defendants were seve- rally called upon to state their case. The object of the first was to render the charac- ter of the accuser odious, to conciliate the feelings of the Court to himself, by drawing a contrast between the cruelty of the overseer and the clemency of the judge, as well as to excite sympathy by a narra- tion of his sufferings. The second illustrates the hardships of his case, by instituting a comparison be- tween his own lot and that of a woodpecker, and urges, that having been born as free as that bird, the overseer had no more claim to his services than he had to those of the woodpecker. He draws a compari- son between the condition of the two, to the advantage of the latter, and. ridicules the idea that he was neither to build his own house nor to have any shelter before going to work for the overseer, concluding his defence by a recital of the punishment inflicted on him. A third had been charged with inatten- tion to poultry committed to her care, owing to which many of them had died. She was required by the overseer to pay for them, and in default of it was to be punished. Indisposed, or unable to pay, and dreading the threatened punishment, she had absconded. It will be observed that she attempts to conciliate the chief magistrate, by flattering him with her opinion of his medical skill ; proves his inability to counteract the designs of Om- nipotence, with regard to the death of any of his patients; appeals to him, if under such circumstances he would be justly charged with a want of attention, or re- quired to pay any penalty for the loss of his patients, and hence infers the injustice ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 81 of the demand made upon her under similar circumstances. The defence of the two latter only will be given, and that briefly and in their own dialect. " Massa," said the first of them, address- ing the senior judge, " me bin no heb no house, and when me bin cut one bread-nut tree me see how one woodpecker bin build him house in the tree, and me tink say, poor me boy ! The woodpecker is better off than me, him hab plenty time for build him house and mind him pickinniny, and when woodpecker da sleep in the mornin, him no fraid of bad busha for flog him be- cause him no turn out before day to do buckra work, and me tink it was berry hard me for live worse than woodpecker, and busha say me lazy, and him will build house for me, and me tell him say, him must look at woodpecker house, so say if busha bin built it, and me ax him why him no make woodpecker cut bread-nuts, and dig cane-holes, so busha flog me till me most dead. Posin you youself handsome somebody like you, blong to him, him would flog you till you most dead too." " Massa," said the other, " me bin fowl- house woman, and the truckies (turkeys) dead na me hand eberry day, so busha say me must pay for dem. Now, massa doc- tor, you is cleber person to cure sick some- body, and if dem can cure, you will cure dem, but if dem time come for dead, dem must dead, for though massa doctor berry cleber, him can't do more dan God. Same fashion, massa, if da trucky time for dead come, dem must dead. Now, massa doc- tor, pose neger sick in the hot-house, and dem time for dead come, and God make dem dead, it no would be berry hard you for pay cause dem dead ? So it berry hard me for pay for de trucky dead, and busha say him will flog me, so me run away." By such an array of incontrovertible facts, the natural inferiority of the negro in mental capacity and his consequent un- susceptibility of the advantages of culture and instruction are proved to be utterly fal- lacious. But additional evidence may be afforded as the result of repeated and im- partial experiments. In schools, of which the writer has for many years had the di- rection, both white, coloured, and black children have begun the alphabet and ad- vanced together in the same school for years, their advantages in every respect being equal ; and whether it has been owing, on the part of the white pupil, to parental indulgence, or to the influence of climate, or, on the part of the black, to the absence of these causes, or to a more implicit dependence on their own resources, in almost every instance the black and brown children have made the greatest pro- ficiency, and have appeared to the best advantage at public examinations. One little boy, the son of a Mungola and a Papaw, two of the tribes described by an historian* as almost " The lag of human kind Nearest to brute of God designed," but whose appearance, according to the theories of phrenologists, presented some of the finest indications of mental capacity, could read the New Testament at the age of four years and a half, and answer any ordinary question from it that might be proposed ; at the same time giving indica- tions of powers of memory truly surpris- ing. At the age of six years, continuing to improve in the same degree, he had made considerable proficiency in writing and arithmetic, and given proofs of a rich and rapidly-expanding intellect, which, at such an age, have seldom been surpassed in children of a fairer skin. Nor is this a mere isolated case, but one out of many that might be selected, as the result of nearly twenty years' experience and ob- servation, both in town and country dis- tricts. The writer is fully persuaded that our coloured and black fellow-creatures are equally as capable of being conducted through every stage of mental discipline and taught to arrive at as great a height of social and intellectual improvement as has ever been attained by the most privileged Europeans. The equality of the African race in mental endowments with other nations was abundantly evidenced in former ages; nor, where the like advantages have been en- joyed, are we without similar examples in our own. Among African divines are the names of Clemens, Cyprian, Augustine, and Tertullian; Terence among her poets; Hannibal and Asdrubal in the list of her heroes. Africa is said to have been the parent of the arts and of civilization ; to * Long, 82 JAMAICA: have given to Spain the first principles of refinement and philosophy ; and even to Greece and Rome their earliest rudiments of learning and abstract science. " She exhibited the first approach to alphabetical writing by hieroglyphic emblems; the first great works in sculpture, painting, and architecture ; and travellers even now find Egypt and Carthage covered with magnifi- cent monuments, erected at an era when the faintest dawn of science had not yet illuminated the regions of Europe," — "If glorious structures and immortal deeds Enlarge the heart and set our souls on fire, My tongue has been too cold in Egypt's praise — Queen of the nations, and the boast of times, Mother of science, and the house of gods; Scarce can I open wide my lab'ring mind To comprehend the vast idea big with arts and arms, So boundless is its fame."* Among the distinguished Africans, of later times are Friedg, of Vienna, an emi- nent architect and musician; Hannibal, a colonel in the Russian service, celebrated for his mathematical and scientific attain- ments; Lislet, of the Isle of France, a member of the French Academy ; Arno, a doctor of divinity in the university at Wirtemberg; Ignatius Sancho, of our own country ; and Francis Williams of Spanish Town, Jamaica ; the latter of whom was sent to a grammar school in England by the Duke of Montague, afterwards to Cam- bridge, and was a good politician, mathe- matician, and poet. His Latin poem ad- dressed to General Haldane on his as- sumption of the government of Jamaica was regarded as one of the first produc- tions of the age. There are also the names of Toussaint, Petion, and others in Hayti ; Payanga in South America, with a list too numerous to recount. In Jamaica at the present time there are many of the descendants of Africa, of whose names delicacy forbids the men- tion, but who, amidst all the disadvantages with which they have had to struggle, do not suffer by a comparison with the most » talented and accomplished Europeans, and who, had they been placed in more favour- ed circumstances, would have shone among the most distinguished men of any age or country. The sons of Ethiopia have been too long despised by the proud descend- *The identity of the negroes with the ancient Egyptians has been disputed, but in the opinion of the writer with no sufficient reason. ants of a more favoured fortune. All classes have agreed together to point at them the finger of scorn, and to hurl to- wards them the missiles of reproach. The man of science has been too ready to unite with the more flippant accuser ; learning and eloquence have descended from their elevation to assist in the mean assault; rank and station have joined in the inglo- rious crusade ; half the civilized world, smitten with the demon of cupidity, had em- barked with a loathsome zeal in the unna- tural strife. But other times are gradually opening, and the great drama of African fortunes is imperceptibly shifting. Though her ancient glory lies shrouded behind the cloud of dim mysterious antiquity, another era is about to dawn upon her race, and a brighter and more steady radiance than that which she has lost to settle upon her history. With the testimony of distant ages, and the evidence afforded by passing events, it will be difficult for any, except they be men possessed of unblushing im- pudence, to persevere in the ungenerous calumnies repudiated and condemned. Proofs of the claims of the great colour- ed family to intellect and social equality with those of a more favoured skin, will be accumulating with ever-augmenting ra- pidity amidst the new influences of these passing times. The most sceptical will be compelled to yield to the attestation of daily multiplying facts, and the most pre- judiced to abandon for very shame their vicious predilections and opinions. The oppressed offspring of Ham will rise at the life-giving call of Christianity, and meekly array themselves in beauty and in power. Acquiring a taste for knowledge and a love for virtue, they will receive into their midst the germ of all vitality and the secret of all strength, and the period is not, it is fondly hoped, so remote but that some pro- mise of it already illumines the horizon. When gently led forward by the humane of every nation they shall, under the egis of an overshadowing Providence, run a career of honourable progression in all that adorns and elevates the species, with the boasting inhabitants of some privileged climes. To realize these anticipations nothing is required but the introduction of a liberal and enlarged scheme of sound education among the more respectable classes of the coloured and black population. These ad- ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 83 vantages, now the exclusive inheritance of their brethren of a fairer skin, must be ex- tended to them, and seminaries of learning and of science be raised and consecrated to their use. It is time that intelligent and aspiring youth, who are distinguished from others only by their outward hue, had the means of assembling in halls of their own, safe from the taunts of folly and of pride. The establishment of a College in Jamaica, after the model of University College in London, by no means an insuperable task, would be of incalculable advantage to the descendants of Africa in the western islands,* and do more than all else to ex- pose to the ridicule it deserves the senseless distinction which it is the study of so many to perpetuate and extend. There are thou- sands in England who would rejoice to aid in so glorious an effort to elevate the co- loured and black population in the scale of learning, and to raise them to their just and proper position among the nations of the earth, while the faintest prospect of so important a step in the path of improve- ment inspires the breast of the writer with delight. To this desirable object he begs to awaken the attention of gentlemen of colour abroad, and of high and honour- able minds at home.f It would be the most glorious compensa- tion the British public could award the de- scendants of Africa in Jamaica (for com- pensation is still their due), were they to erect, as a monument of emancipation, a seminary of learning of this description, which, independently of benefits of a higher kind, would enable our black and coloured brethren to take their proper rank in the republic of letters, and thus not only wipe away the stigma so long fixed upon them by infidel philosophers, but destroy for ever the pretext which is urged for their degradation. Some years since the writer published addresses on this important sub- ject to the middling and higher classes of the colony, accompanied by a prospectus of such an establishment, which excited considerable attention and sympathy. The object, however, was considered *The importance of such an institution to the civi- lization of Africa also would be incalculable. t It is a pleasing fact that a native of St. Domingo lately obtained the highest honours at the University of Paris, and that a negro is now a student ia one of the Colleges at Cambridge. impracticable, unaided by the Christian public in England. Engaged as that pub- lic was in endeavouring to abolish slavery, pecuniary aid from them could scarcely be expected, and the purpose was abandoned. The great struggle with slavery having at length so successfully terminated, and the necessity for such an institution having greatly increased, it is now especially de- sirable that the plan should be carried into operation. To inform the friends of the African race more particularly of its na- ture and object, and to stimulate them to aid the establishment of it, particulars are given in the Appendix. " What," says the late Dr. Mason Good, alluding to the progress of the arts and sciences in Africa, " produced the dif- ference we now behold ? What has kept the Bambareens,* like the Chinese, nearly in a stationary state for, perhaps, upwards of two thousand years, and has enabled the rude and painted Britons to become the first people in the world, the most renowned for arts and for arms, for the best virtues of the heart, and the best faculties of the understanding 1 Not a difference in the colour of the skin; but, first, the peculiar favour of the Almighty ; next, a political constitution which was sighed for, and in some degree prefigured, by Plato and Tully, but regarded as a master-piece beyond the power of human accomplishment ; and, lastly, a fond and fostering cultivation of science in every ramification and depart- ment, "f Numerous as are the common schools in Jamaica, and efficient as they have been in accomplishing the objects for which they have been established, it cannot be forgot- ten that a vast amount of ignorance yet re- mains. It is estimated that full one-half of the population are yet without the means of instruction : a reflection which becomes the more painful from the circumstance that during the last two years, school operations, instead of increasing, have diminished throughout the island from want of funds. % * "The kingdom of Bambarra, of which Timbuctoo is the capital, it is supposed, was as completely es- tablished and flourished in Caesar's time as at the pre- sent moment." t Jamaica Almanac. + The subjoined official document, while it will sustain the representation here made of the late de- crease in the number of schools, will, at the same time, show the progressive advancement of education, 84 JAMAICA: The greatest calamity at this crisis of the history of Freedom, next to that of the diminution of the public means and ordi- nances of religion, would be the decrease of school instruction ; and the present chapter cannot be concluded without pre- senting an earnest appeal to the Christian public to continue and increase their efforts, both for the support and extension of these institutions, until, freed from the difficulties attendant on the establishment of new set- tlements, added to a better appreciation of the advantages of education, parents will be able and willing to support them, inde- pendently of foreign aid. CHAPTER XIII. SOCIAL CONDITION. Negro Villages in Time of Slavery — Houses — Dress of Slaves — Personal and Domestic Habits — Licen- tiousness — Polygamy — Marriage — Treatment of Females — Indolence — Improvement in all these Respects — Opening of a New Township under Freedom — Number of new Settlements established — Growing Comfort and Prosperity of the Country — Evidences of these results. The negro villages were, in general, situated amongst groves of fruit-trees, pre- senting to the eye at a distance, especial- ly in the full blaze of the sun, an appear- ance very far from forbidding ; but on a nearer approach they were unsightly, and, owing to the offensive effluvia arising from quantities of decayed vegetable matter, far from healthy. The houses were thrown together without any pretence to order or arrangement ; and, with a few exceptions, were wretched habitations. They consist- ed of posts put into the ground at the dis- tance of about two feet asunder; the inter- mediate space being closed up with wattle, daubed over on the inside with mud. In some instances they were divided into two or three apartments, but thousands consist- ed of one room only. This served the whole of the family for all domestic uses. and its occasional interruptions, from the year 1800 nearly to the present time : — " In 1800, the children taught in all the schools in Kingston, including Woolmer's, which was then the only public school, amounted to 315. They increased gradually, but slowly, till 1831, when the numbers were 4088. In 1832 they decreased to 3738. In 1836 they amounted to 7707 ; in 1837 to 8753 ; and in 1842 the numbers decreased, as already stated, to 6525." — Morning Journal, Feb. 9, 1843. At night all huddled promiscuously round a fire kindled in its centre ; and with scarce- ly any other covering than their scanty and well-worn daily apparel, they sought the refreshment and repose necessary for a renewal of their daily toil. A few wooden bowls or calabashes, a water-jar, a wooden mortar for pounding their Indian corn, and an iron pot for boiling the farrago of vege- table ingredients which composed their daily meal, comprised almost all their furni- ture. The beds used by the more decent and civilized were wooden frames, with a mat of rough material, raised about a foot from the earthen floor, and their covering a blanket. A few cottages might exhibit a somewhat nearer approach to the customs of civilized society ; but these were excep- tions to the general rule. Each house was surrounded by a piece of garden-ground, and the village, in general, was intersected by narrow, straggling, and dirty lanes. The dress of the males consisted princi- pally of a coarse cap or hat, and a pair of Osnaburgh trousers, or a shirt of the same material ; that of the females of a hand- kerchief tied in a turban-like manner round the head, an Osnaburgh under-garment, and a coarse blue baize petticoat. Shoes or stockings constituted no part of their apparel, except on very particular occa- sions. So little did they respect the decencies of life, and so little were these observed towards them by their superiors, that boys and girls of seven or eight years of age were accustomed to work together, or to roam at large, entirely destitute of cover- ing. In this state it was not uncommon for them to be employed as domestic ser- vants. Nor was it unusual for both sexes at thirteen years of age, and in stature almost men and women, to wait at table, at parties composed of white ladies and gentlemen, with no other covering than a long shirt, or a loose habit of a similar description. Multitudes were exceedingly filthy in their persons. Some were particular in their diet, and scrupulously clean in the process of its preparation; but with others cane-rats, cats, putrid fish, and even rep- tiles and animals in a state of decomposi- tion, were their common food.* * Rats were a common article of commerce in the public markets. ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 85 The sanctities of marriage were almost unknown ; there was no such thing, indeed, as legitimate marriages among the slaves. This sacred institute was ridiculed by the negroes, and regarded as inimical to their happiness. Under such circumstances the state of society can be easily conceived. Licentiousness the most degraded and un- restrained was the order of the day. Every estate on the island — every negro hut was a common brothel : every female a prosti- tute, and every man a libertine. Many aged individuals have frequently assured the writer that among the female slaves there were none who had not sacrificed all pretensions to virtue before they had attained their fourteenth year ; whilst hundreds were known to have become mothers before they had even entered upon their teens. Polygamy was also common. So far as an agreement between themselves was concerned, they may be said to have formed a matrimonial alliance ; but their affection was liable to frequent interrup- tions, and divorces were consequently of common occurrence ; whilst the manner in which the ceremony attending the latter was performed, was not a little singular, and far from insignificant. On such occa- sions they usually took a cotta, a circular pad formed of the plantain-leaf,and dividing it, each of the party took half. Regarding the circle as a symbol of Eternity, and the ring of perpetual love and fidelity, it was a ceremony that certainly did not inaptly express their eternal disunion. Like the inhabitants of all uncivilized nations, the men treated the women as inferior in the scale of being to themselves, exercising over those who composed their respective harems a kind of petty sovereignty. The women usually cooked the food of their acknowledged lords, waited upon them with all the obsequiousness of devoted ser- vants, and assisted them in the cultivation of their grounds, and the sale of their pro- duce. Sometimes this assumed superiority degenerated into the most vexatious ty- ranny ; the consequences of which were often terrible in the display of furious and vindictive passions, which not unfrequently led to a dissolution of the whole relative connexion. Their social condition was therefore deplorable. Unameliorated by any firm domestic ties, their homes, if such they could be called, were embittered by all the dark passions of the fallen heart — by " hatred, variance, emulation, wrath, strife, envying, revelling, and such like." The indolence of the negro race has ever been proverbial : hence the necessity, as their enemies have argued, of the frequent application of the whip, and various other modes of legalized torture, as a stimulus to labour. " I have seen some," says Mr. Long, " so exquisitely indolent, that they have contracted very bad ulcer3 on their feet, by suffering multitudes of chigoes to nestle and generate there, rather than give themselves the trouble of picking them out." The general idleness of the people is usually assigned as the cause of most of the punishments inflicted upon them during slavery ; and, to a considerable degree, the representation is correct. Let it, however, be remembered that, under the circum- stances in which they were then placed, they had not a single stimulus to industry. From this revolting picture we turn with pleasure to the contrast as exhibited in the progress of the last twenty years. There is not generally so great an improvement in the size, structure, and interior arrange- ment of the cottages upon estates as might have been expected, but in those which form the new villages that have been esta- blished throughout the island since the abo- lition of slavery, the difference is striking. Most of these are in all respects equal, and some of them superior, to the tenancies of labourers in the rural districts of England. They vary in size with the number of the family. In general they are from 20 to 30 feet in length, and from 14 to 18 in breadth. They are either neatly thatched, or shingled with pieces of hard wood hewn somewhat in the shape of slates. Some are built of stone or wood ; but the gene- rality are an improvement on those on es- tates, being plastered also on the outside, and white-washed. Many are ornamented with a portico in front to screen the sitting- apartment from the sun and rain : while, for the admission of light and air, as well as to add to their appearance, all of them exhibit either shutters or jealousies, painted green, or small glass windows. There is usually a sleeping-apartment at each end, and a sitting-room in the centre. The floors are in most instances terraced, al- though boarded ones for sleeping-rooms are becoming common. Many of the latter contain good mahogany bedsteads, a wash- hand stand, a looking-glass, and chairs. 86 JAMAICA : The middle apartment is usually furnished with a sideboard, displaying sundry arti- cles of crockery-ware, some decent-looking chairs, and not unfrequently with a kw broad sheets of the Tract Society hung round the walls in neat frames of cedar. For cooking food, and other domestic pur- poses, a little room or two is erected at the back of the cottage, where are also arrang- ed the various conveniences for keeping domestic stock. The villages are laid out in regular order, being divided into lots more or less intersected by roads or streets. The plots are usually in the form of an oblong square. The cottage is situated at an equal distance from each side of the allotment, and at about eight or ten feet, more or less, from the public thoroughfare. The piece of ground in front is, in some instances, cultivated in the style of a Eu- ropean garden : displaying rose-bushes, and other flowering shrubs among the choicer vegetable productions; while the remainder is covered with all the substantial vegeta- bles and fruits of the country, heterogene- ously intermixed. In this description there is an especial reference to the settlement at Sligoville* — a view of which is here an- nexed. This township was commenced in 1885, anticipative of the necessity that would exist for such establishments in the inci- pient operations of freedom, both as a re- fuge for the peasantry, and for the general advantage of the country. The representation being partially given from memory, may not be so correct in some of its details as could have been de- sired ; but the object for which it is design- ed is to give a comprehensive view of the township as to its situation, appearance, and character. These remarks equally apply to the representation of Clarkson Town by which it is succeeded. The following; testimony was borne to the former a few months since by a medi- cal gentleman in a private communication to a friend in England : — " I visited Sligo- ville, and remained there a week. Every allotment of land is now sold, and many of the people are applying in vain for more. This township is in a very prosperous con- dition. The canes, provisions, and fruit, are equal, if not superior, to any in the * Named in honour of the Marquis Sligo, when Governor of Jamaica. island. Many of the settlers had not a penny when they came ; but they worked, and paid for the land by its produce. They have erected comfortable cottages, and are now living in perfect happiness, as far as human happiness can be perfect. They have no anxieties; and are eminently grate- ful, both to Christians who worked for, and to the God who gave them freedom." A sketch of Clarkson Town, with the circumstances attending its opening, may serve to convey a still more correct idea of the progress of social improvement throughout the country. This township is beautifully situated in the centre of a long valley or glade, form- ed by two ranges of mountains, rearing their summits to the clouds, and nearly meeting at their base. Beheld from a mountain pass immediately in the rear of the settlement, two or three sugar-estates are visible in the distance ; and beyond them, by an accommodation of the fore- ground to avoid obstruction from the trees which are in process of being cleared away, are seen the towns of Kingston and Port Royal ; whilst, as an additional element of interest and beauty in the picture, the ports disclose their shipping, and the harbour the small craft, that are perpetually skim- ming to and fro over its surface, with now and then a merchantman or man-of-war homeward or outward bound. The settlement is already of considera- ble extent, and is gradually increasing. The cottages are of comfortable size, con- taining about three rooms each, and are very substantially built. The v township contains at present but three principal streets, one of which, by an angle in its centre, is divided into two, named Victoria and Albert. Along these, leaving a piece of garden-ground in front, the cottages are ranged on either side, at equal distances. The interesting ceremony of opening the township took place on the 12th day of May, 1842. A considerable number of people were attracted by the occasion ; and, as its principal objects were to secure an opportunity of preaching the Gospel and administering advice, accommodation for a large auditory had been provided be- neath a cluster of old forest-trees, on the mountain-side, and in a situation which commanded a view of the whole settle- ment. It was a most romantic spot — the mountains forming an amphitheatre, cover- ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 87 ed with trees and shrubs of varied foliage and beauty, arresting the clouds as they floated along the sky, " With thicket overgrown, grotesque and wild, Access denied, and overhead up grew Insuperable heights of loftiest shade, Cedar and branching palm," whilst their sides, and the extended and lovely valley below, presented in beautiful contrast a garden reclaimed from the wide waste around by the arts of peaceful in- dustry. In consequence of the reverberation of sound along the narrow defile which the township occupies, a shout of the voice was all that was necessary to attract the company to the place of meeting. Ac- cordingly, at the appointed hour, the words, " Come to prayers," being vociferated two or three times by one of the most robust and active of the villagers, who ascended the summit of a detached hill for the pur- pose^ every individual in the settlement was seen wending his way to this rural sanctuary ; the aged and infirm supporting themselves on a staff, and others more vigorous climbing the steep ascent with quick and eager step : all, at the same time, with countenances that betokened the pleasure which such a summons had created. The pulpit was a rude table, covered with a white cloth, and situated close to the huge trunk of one of the group of trees already mentioned. The hearers were seated almost in semicircles on planks affixed to uprights placed in the ground, beneath the shade of the wide-spread branches, altogether presenting a most novel and interesting spectacle. The writer commenced the services, and delivered an address containing, as is usual on such occasions, advice on the subject of personal and relative duties, urging on all present the advantages of a conscientious and faithful discharge of them, both as evidences of their piety towards God, and as necessary causes of their temporal pros- perity and happiness. The Rev. Thomas Dowson preached an energetic and appro- priate discourse, relating, in an especial manner, to the spiritual interests of the hearers. The service was then closed by prayer and praise. These preliminary engagements being ended, the writer proceeded to the cere- mony of naming the town, and accord- ingly proposed its being called " Clarkson Town," in honour of the celebrated phi- lanthropist of that name, to whose long and untiring efforts on behalf of the Afri- can race the great boon of emancipation was mainly to be attributed, detailing some of the difficulties this venerable man had to encounter, and the sacrifices he was called to make, in the prosecution of his arduous work, deducing from the whole his pre-eminent claim to their most grateful remembrance. This address was received with cordial responses, and the designation, " Clarkson Town," by men, women, and children united, resounded throughout the valley. " The venerable Clarkson, and his asso- ciates in the great work of securing liberty to the slave ! May they live to hear of still greater triumphs of their philanthropy ! May they persevere in their benevolent efforts until slavery and the slave-trade shall perish in every land ; and may they be at last crowned with immortal honour and happiness in heaven !" was repeated by the crowd with the greatest enthusiasm, and followed by loud and long-continued cheering. A statement of the circumstances which led to the establishment of the township, together with the leading incidents which had hitherto marked its history, was then read : an extract from which, designed especially to show the advantages of its locality, is here subjoined. " Although the settlement is at present small and insignificant, it is probable it may soon become of considerable magni- tude and importance, as a plan is con- ceived of cutting a canal from a little above Kingston harbour to the foot of the moun- tains near which the town is located — a design which, if executed, will be of almost inconceivable advantage to the estates in the neighbourhood, bring a vast tract of land into cultivation now abandoned in morass, afford facilities for the conveyance of produce from the adjoining parishes, and thereby increase cultivation in them to an extent hitherto unprecedented. " May this infant township rise under the blessing of Almighty God, and may its inhabitants, to the most distant poste- rity, united in bonds of Christian love and fellowship, be as one family, with one feeling to prompt and one principle to | govern !" 88 JAMAICA : This part of the ceremony concluded, the writer proceeded to name the streets of the town, and arriving at the most conve- nient part of the principal street, he pre- faced the designation by a short address, congratulating the peasantry on their loy- alty to their sovereign, in desiring the as- sociation of Her Majesty's name and that of her Royal consort (a general case in all the new townships) with their social pros- perity and happiness. And on his saying aloud, " I name this street « Victoria,' in honour of our beloved sovereign, by whose gracious will and pleasure the great boon of freedom was bestowed upon you and your children," all united in loud and suc- cessive cheers, followed by singing in chorus two or three verses of the National Anthem. The circumstances attending the naming of the street in honour of Prince Albert were similar, as were also those which accompanied the naming of the remainder, among which was " Gurney Street," in remembrance of Joseph J. Gur- ney, Esq., who, as described in his ' Win- ter in the West Indies, in 1841,' visited the settlement, and was delighted both with its appearance, and the manners, intelligence, and hospitality of the people.* At the conclusion of the business of the day the two ministers who conducted the ceremonies, together with the friends who accompanied them, retired loaded with caresses and followed by benedictions until the interesting spot had vanished from their sight. The writer could not help specula- ting, as he paced the winding solitary ascent to his home, on the emotions of which the venerable Clarkson and his noble coadjutors in the cause of African liberty would have been the subjects had they but witnessed the scene — had they beheld the activity and light-heartedness manifested both by young and old, from the earliest dawn of day. Had they heard their mutual salutations — their hearty cheers and enthusiastic benedictions on the instruments of their deliverance from tem- poral and spiritual bondage ! Had they but seen the evidences of their industry and providence — of their contentment and happiness — these noble-minded men and women would have required no other re- compense, they could have desired no higher honour. Nor will their names or Winter in the West Indies, p. 116. their deeds ever be forgotten — they will descend to succeeding generations em- balmed in the grateful recollection of the whole posterity of Ham, when the memo- rials of the tyrants that oppressed them shall have perished. The number of similar settlements that have been established since the period of emancipation, and the extent of such free- holds, is almost incredible. It is difficult at present to ascertain the precise number of either, but on a rough calculation the villages can scarcely be estimated at fewer than from 150 to 200, or the number of acres of land purchased at less than 100,000. Equally imperfect must be any general statistics respecting them. As nearly as can be ascertained, the number of heads of families who have purchased land is about 10,000,* and the number of cottages erected about 3000. The amount paid for land thus purchased is estimated at 70,000/., and the value of the houses 100,000/., thus making the total cost of land purchased by the peasantry in the course of four years, and of cottages erected by them, 170,000/. The names which these simple-minded villagers attach to their unpretending dwellings, though a trifling incident, is not without interest, as one of the lighter indi- cations of their progress in social taste and improvement. A specimen of these is here given. Victoria Comfort Castle Happy Home Content * As a proof that the above calculation is not ex- aggerated, an extract from a speech delivered, in the House of Commons, March 22, 1842, by Lord Stan- ley (the present Colonial Secretary), is here inserted : — " The next statement he (Lord Stanley) would read to the House, was by a Stipendiary Magistrate. He said it would appear wonderful how so much had been accomplished in the island, in building, plant- ing, and digging, and making fences, without a ces- sation of labour on the part of the population. The reason was, that the emancipation from bondage to new hopes, new desires, and new responsibilities, strengthened the exertions of the negro, and enabled him to labour in his own plantation, and to spare time to labour in the plantations of others. And to that statement was attached a most singular docu- ment, which showed the number in one parish, not of those who had landed possessions, but of those who had entered their names as being the owners of pro- perty liable to taxation, and who had stated their wil- lingness as free men to bear their proportion of the public imposts. In that parish, in 1836, there were 317 names; in 1840, 1321; and in 1841, 1866: and the number of freeholders, who had become free- holders by their accumulations and industry in the island of Jamaica, was in 1838, 2114; and in the space of two years, in 1840, their number had in- creased to 7340." ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 89 Pleasant Hill Happy Wood Occasion Call* Envy Not Albert Thankful Hill Good Hope Happiness Save Rent Heart's Love Adelaide Happy Hill Campbell's Delight Thank God to see it Happy Retreat A Little of n>y Own Industry Canaan Mount Zion Happy Hut Free Come Happy Grove Content my Own Jane's Delight Paradise Come See Fisherman's Home Freedom Liberty Content Comfortable Garden You no come 1 no got Pleasant Farm Among the appellations by which the villages themselves are distinguished are the following : — Victoria Normanby Vale Lionel Buxton Gurney Albert Sligoville Clarkson Brougham Sturge Adelaide Wilberforce Macauley Harvey Thompson. As an e\ 'idence of the improvement which has taken place, the decencies of society are no longer outraged by insuffi- cient and filthy apparel. Seldom, indeed, is an individual seen, especially on the Sabbath, except in the most becoming attire, — in every respect as good as that worn by persons of the same class during thesummer in England. The dress of the women generally consists of a printed or white cotton gown, with a white handker- chief tied in a turban-like manner round their heads, and a neat straw hat trimmed with white ribbon ; while some, especially the young women, wear straw bonnets and white muslin dresses. This improve- ment has extended itself, not simply to the mere article of dress, but also to its condi- tion. It is uniformly distinguished for its cleanliness, whilst the economy with which it is preserved in a climate where, from insects and other causes, it is so liable to destruction, is truly remarkable. [Female Negro Peasant in her On occasions when their best garments are to be worn, such as on the Sabbath, at funerals, at meetings of friendship, and during the public holidays, they are car- ried to the spot by each individual respec- * Becase him have 'casion. On asking a good man who had given this designation to his freehold its meaning, he replied— "If any person have business wid me, him can come in ; but if him don't want me in pottickler, me no wants him company, and him no 'casion to come." t " If you don't come to trouble me, I don't go to trouble you." Sunday and Working Dress.] tively in a basket on the head, and no sooner does the occasion cease than they are as carefully replaced in the basket, cleaned, and consigned to the family chest. Contrary to the prevailing opinion in Eng- land, the taste of the females is no longer characterized by the love of gaudy colours. From the circumstances in which they have been placed, it can scarcely be ex- pected that the qualities by which the female sex is so conspicuously adorned in Britain should be equally displayed by 90 JAMAICA : these daughters of Ethiopia. Modesty, a sense of shame, together with a refined and delicate sensibility, are however be- coming increasingly apparent. The savage custom of impaling and eat- ing reptiles and unclean animals no longer exists. Polygamy is now highly disreputa- ble, and is universally regarded not only as sinful, but as subversive of social in- terests and domestic happiness ; nor less so are concubinage and general licentious- ness. Since the celebration of marriage by missionaries of all denominations has been legalized — which right was conceded to dissenters in general by an Act passed by the Colonial Legislature on the 2d of December, 1840 — the ceremony has be- come so common as to be an almost daily occurrence. Out of a population of 420,000, not fewer than 14,840 marriages have taken place annually since that period, being a proportion of one in 29 : indeed, every- where marriage is now the rule, and con- cubinage the exception.* Their ideas of the marriage state are entirely changed. It is now associated with everything virtuous and honourable in human conduct. It is by no means un- common, when a married man is charged with inconsistency and sin of any kind, that surprise should be expressed on the ground of having entered into that rela- tion ; while those who worthily discharge its duties and obligations are invariably re- garded as individuals deserving the highest respect and esteem. In some districts, the circumstances under which a newly-married pair return to the plantation or a newly-formed village are peculiarly interesting; nearly all the inhabitants, together with friends and ac- quaintances from the neighbourhood, go out to meet them attired in their best gar- ments, and forming themselves into two parallel lines, through which the bride and bridegroom, with their attendants, pass, shake them heartily by the hand, and in- voke a thousand blessings on their union. In other instances, no sooner is the ap- proach of the party announced than they are immediately surrounded, and the ear is filled with the clamour of congratulation. The first appearance of a negro pair at the House of God after the ceremony, usually presents an interesting scene. " God bless * See Candler's Journal, p. 23. you, my sister, my broder, my friend ! me wish you much joy !" accompanied by other external signs of sympathy which none but the negro race can so eloquently and beautifully express, are uttered in con- cert by multitudes of voices. Nor are the principles by which the con- jugal, parental, and filial relations are sus- tained, either imperfectly understood or faintly developed. Mutual harmony and tenderness, every mild virtue and soft endearment, which gives to home its solace and its charm, is now to be seen in lovely exercise in many a negro family. Comparatively humble as are their thatched and mud-walled cottages, they are associated in the minds of their sable tenants with pleasures that never cloy, and which leave neither stain nor sting behind. "Many a family presents a group worthy of the painter's pencil and the poet's song — a scene to excite the pa- triot's hope and the Christian's joy — a scene which ministering spirits view with high complacency, and a living sanctuary where the promised presence of the Saviour dwells." Amidst the stillness of a Sabbath evening, after their return from the House of God, often is such a family seen sitting beneath the shadow of the trees which overhang their cottage, engaged in singing a hymn or in listening to the reading of the Scriptures, or religious tracts, " none dar- ing to make them afraid." " Embosomed in his home He shares the frugal meal with those he loves ; With those he loves he shares the heartfelt joy Of giving thanks to God." A surprising improvement is apparent in the manners and intercourse of the people at large. They no longer exhibit their former uncouth address and their sullen aspect and carriage, but are respectful to their superiors, graceful in their manners, and social in their dispositions. They never fail to return an act of civility even to a stranger on the public road, though they may be groaning beneath the heaviest burdens, and seldom are they known to offer an insult except under circumstances of great provocation. Towards each other they manifest a politeness and respect sometimes approach- ing to extravagance. The lowest of the peasantry seldom meet without exchanging salutations, accompanied in general by mu- tual inquiries after the health of each other's ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 91 families. This practice is so general that among friends its accidental violation has often led to unpleasant consequences when not followed by an apology. Gratitude for favours received, respect for old age, love of offspring, generous compassion for the distressed, ardent and disinterested friendship, have, by the most prejudiced writers, been universally acknowledged to be redeeming qualities of the African char- acter ; qualities the developement of which is daily becoming increasingly manifest. However justly the charge of indolence and improvidence was formerly brought against the peasantry of Jamaica, it is now no longer of general application. The term indolent can only be applied to the black population in the absence of remunerating employment. But even then they labour in their own provision grounds. Jamaica peasants loitering along the roads, — associated in groups in their villages for the purpose of idle gossip, — lounging about their residences, — or spending their time and money at taverns or places of similar resort, are seldom to be found. On returning from their daily labour the men almost uniformly employ themselves in cultivating their own grounds or in im- proving their own little freeholds, and the women in culinary and other domestic pur- poses until driven to their frugal repast and to repose by darkness and fatigue. As to the great bulk of the people, making allowance for the influence of climate, no peasantry in the world can display more cheerful and persevering industry. These facts have not only been confirmed by mis- sionaries and disinterested men throughout the island, as well as by Messrs. Gurney, Candler, and other philanthropic and highly respectable travellers, but by the public journals of the colonists themselves,— journals which are considered the organs of the most respectable portion both of the commercial and agricultural communities. The editor of the Jamaica Morning Jour- nal, a high authority, so lately as the 17th of February of the present year, thus speaks : — " The colony remains in that quiescent condition which is so favourable to im- provement, and it is gratifying to observe, as the result of this state of things, the im- petus which has been given to the agricul- tural societies, and the formation of literary ones. We do not recollect ever to have seen such vigorous efforts put forth for the improvement of the people and of agricul- ture as have been within the last few months. " Except as to the want of labourers, we have no complaints ; and, whether re- garded socially or politically, the state of Jamaica at present is as favourable as could be desired by the most ardent lover of peace and quiet. The planters are looking forward to large crops, and are cheered by the hope that they will yet be enabled to recover themselves from the almost ruinous effects of the late drought." The evidence of Sir Charles Metcalfe from various circumstances will be re- garded as important and decisive. It is contained in a despatch to Lord Stanley, and read by the Secretary for the Colonies in the House of Commons on the 22d of March, 1842. Six years after the passing of the Emancipation Act, and at the end of the second year of Sir Charles Met- calfe's government, he said, " The present condition of the peasantry in Jamaica is very striking. He did not suppose that any peasantry had so many comforts, or so much independence. Their behaviour was peaceable, and in some respects cheer- ful. They were found to attend divine service in good clothes, many of them riding on horses. They sent their chil- dren to school, and paid for their school- ing, and not only attended the churches of their different communities, but sub- scribed for their respective churches. Their piety teas remarkable ; and he was happy to add, that in some respects they deserved what they had. They were generally well ordered and free from crime, had much improved in their habits, and were constant in their attendance on divine worship themselves, and in the attendance of their children, and were willing to pay the ex- penses.'''' The following graphic description of the prosperous condition of Jamaica, by J. J. Gurney, Esq., will not only form an appropriate conclusion to the present chap- ter, but at the same time illustrate and con- firm its statements :— « The imports of the island are rapidly increasing; trade im- proving ; the towns thriving ; new villages rising up in every direction ; property much enhanced in value ; well-managed estates productive and profitable ; expenses of ma- nagement diminished ; short methods of 92 JAMAICA labour adopted ; provisions cultivated on a larger scale than ever ; and the people, wherever they are properly treated, indus- trious, contented, and gradually accumu- lating wealth. Above all, education is rapidly spreading; the morals of the com- munity improving; crime is in many dis- tricts disappearing ; and Christianity as- serting her sway with vastly augmented force over the mass of the population. Cease from all attempts to oppose the cur- rent of justice and mercy — remove every obstruction to the fair and full working of freedom — and the bud of Jamaica's pros- perity, already fragrant and vigorous, will soon burst into a glorious flower."* "Say what avail'd, till Freedom's heav'nly band Deign'd to revisit this forsaken land, That spicy forests here their burthens bear, And the rich pine perfumes its native air, That, void and sapless in less favour'd fields, Here the full reed divine ambrosia yields ; For long her fate the hapless island wept, Whilst o'er her plains the Hydra slavery swept ; From shore to shore the growing ruin spread, And Justice died, and Mercy, frighten'd, fled. Till Freedom bade at length these horrors cease, And call'd to joy, and brotherhood, and peace. Oh, think, late lords of slaves, what numbers groan In all the pangs from which you freed your own ; Think too, late bondsmen, and with pity melt, How millions feel what you have felt!" CHAPTER XIV. MOHAL STATE AND ASPECTS OF SOCIETY. Different Tribes of Africans— Peculiar Characteris- tics of each — Immoral Tendency of their Amuse- ments — Funerals — Superstitions — Characteristic Vices — Contrast presented by the present State of Things — Description of a Funeral as now con- ducted — Causes of the late partial Revival of Obe- ism and JVJyalism — Decrease of Crime. Section I. — Imported, as the slaves originally were, from such an immense continent as that of Africa, the regions whence they were supplied extending 2000 miles from north to south, and 600 from east to west, inhabited by various nations * It is delightful to add that this state of things con- tinues to the present time ; a fact confirmed by the testimony of the present Governor, the Earl of Elgin, in a reply to an address presented to him when per- forming a tour of the Island, dated Lucea, April 8, 1843: — " I have observed with much gratification the periect cordiality which subsists between all classes and denominations of Her Majesty's subjects in the island ; and, large as were my expectations, they have been surpassed by the beauty and fertility of the country." differing materially from each other in civilization, religion, manners, and cus- toms, it may be inferred that their tempers and dispositions would also vary accord- ing to the circumstances of the tribe or nation to which they belonged. The most distinguished of the tribes brought into the colony were the Mandingoes, the Foulahs, and others, from the banks of the Senegal, the Gambia, and the Rio Grande; the Whidahs or Papaws, the Eboes, the Con- goes, the Angolas, the Coromantees, and the Mocoes, from Upper and Lower Guinea. The Mandingoes, the Whidahs, and the Congoes, are said, in general, to have been docile, civil, obliging, and peaceable, in their natural tempers and dispositions ; but effeminate both in body and mind, and but ill able to endure the sufferings and toils of slavery. The Eboes are described as crafty, frugal, disputative, and avaricious ; also as haughty, fierce, and stubborn; often manifesting a spirit of despondency, which not unfrequently urged them to the com- mission of suicide. Many of the Angolas and Mocoes are said to have been canni- bals. The Coromantees, the inhabitants of the Gold Coast and its vicinity, are re- presented as " possessing all the worst passions of which imbruted humanity is susceptible," — the tribe that had generally been at the head of all insurrections, and the original and parent stock of the Ma- roons : characteristics which, it is proba- ble, were to a considerable degree the re- sult of their condition, rather than of their nature. Their aggregate character when amalgamated into one society, under the influence of slavery, is thus described by an historian as the result of personal know- ledge and observation: — " In their tempers they are, in general, irascible, conceited, proud, indolent, lascivious, credulous, and very artful. They are excellent dissem- blers and skilful flatterers. They possess good-nature, and sometimes, but rarely, gratitude. Their memory soon loses the traces of favours conferred on them, but faithfully retains a sense of injuries; this sense is so poignant that they have been known to dissemble their hatred for many years until an opportunity has presented of retaliation." " A debasement of all the mental faculties, and the destruction of every honourable principle," says another author, " seems to be the never-failing consequence of slavery; so that even the ITS PAST AND PRESENT STATE. most high-spirited and courageous negro becomes, after remaining a few years in slavery, cunning, cowardly, and, to a cer- tain degree, malevolent. The general dis- position of the negroes in Jamaica, there- fore, but to which there are some excep- tions, may safely be asserted to be thievish, lazy, and dissimulating." ""Hytt/a-u yag t' ugsTHC st.7rociivvntt tv^uoiret Zsuc 'AVifOS, EUT"' £v fJI.IV X.a.TO. ioVXIOV YtTTdLg 6A»(7 : ^'% \ .<> -o M '>- v° W 0°. ■I - 3 r :. ■ * *• J ^ * \> o x **V \ v < j . 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