3^ ••-••.'^c •^^^": 'UK' '^0^1 o. ^'VVT*' A bv' ^^-n^. V'^' .!^^>. -.Or 6 " • * *o AT . ^ v./ /^ii&'v X..^ ;;S»io \/ J Lib. Color LIBRARY OF CONGRESS Blk Quan. Trim Thickness^ IjSjEWCASL [bensew^ I': Labels Insert_Mat Mat. GUM [FILLER. iSTUB [filler, TAPE ISTUB^ Icov TRM |_FLS#_ I^JOBJ. [cov# THE CHEMICAL LAUNDRY GUIDE DESIGNED TO TEACH LADIES THE ART OF LAUNDRiU4G CLOTHES ACCORDING TO CHIIMICAl. PRINCIPALS AND THE SUPEtTIOR METHODS EMPLOYED BY CITY LAUNDRIES; - — ci'M AI^■|^,(, ■ AFULLAND EXPLICIT TREATISE LINEN J'OLISHINCI, AND THE SKILLFUL WASHING AND r?ENOVAIION OF AmiCLES OF tVERY MATERIAL OVER THEEE HUNDEED LAUNDKY METHODS. — .v-/ ^AAo...J/|6./C WALLACE W. NlXOr^o/wI^ nne^"^? I.YNCHlJUIUi, VA. J. r. BELL t.S5 CO., 1879. U 1 1 'irh_^ Kntered according to act of Congress, in the year 1879, by ~\/\''>'l°^f^ Wallace W. Nixon, in the oflice of the Librarian of Con- ^ ^ ^'J grcss.at WashiTimon. All rights reservni. ^ '^>5: The Combined Cornisjatcd lHossing and Moldiii;? Iron. m IN! ''I 2.-PURCHASING CONTRACT. ''plIE Self-Ad ju.-ting Shirt Bourd, the Combined Cor- X rugated Cllossing and Molding Iron, nre c-ach ^^(H'ur- ed by United States Letters Patent, (^'o. i.'(i( ;,.".:.{» and No. 210,55 1, granted, July 23rd, '78 and Dec. iSrd, 'is, respectively;) and the Cheniieal Laundry (iuide is secured l)y Copyright. These arliclcs cannot bo pur- chased from any firm or stores, nor are they Ar*/,/ under any circumstances; they are merely given away to purchasers of Family Tvights. It is only tlie Family Right tliat is sold, and for Ihe u^-e of tlie }>ur- chasers only. Any person or persons fonn.d using or manufacturing any of these Patents without a legiti- mate right, will be fully proseoiited. Tt is a part of the consid(M*ati()n of the ])urchasing contract, and is agreed to In' the purchaser of the Family Uight, not to lend the articles. k vi 3-PREFACE. THE Cliemieal Laundry Guide is submitted to the public to supply a want that lias long existed, for a reliable laundry guide tor laniily use. (^lentlemen who Iiave ever had their linen done up at a fashionable city laundr}^ are delighted with the beautiful gloss and pearl linish that is given it. They also admire its clearness and stifihess, and notice how much longer their linen done ujt in that style, keeps clean. They wonder why it cannot be done with the same skill at home. Ladies who send various articles, lace curtains, dresses, linen suits, laces, etc., to the city laundry, receive them back looking as bright and having the same lustre as when bought at the store new. They admire and wonder how it is done, but tlie methods employed are to tliem profound secrets. There is no magic about them, how- ever. The methods are simple and easy to follow. If ladies only understood them, they could have the pleas- ure and satisfaction of doing up articles at home in the laundry style. Every lady knows how to wash and iron in the usual \V3.y ; but ut a large laundry establish- ment, where the most experienced and skilled hel[), ( even the celebrated Frencli humdress from Paris,) is employed, where laundry work is iu process every week- day of the year, where large sums of money are expen- ded in making experiments, it is no wondrr tluit such an establishment should possess methods vastly superior to those employed by the family, or washerwoman. Laundry work is now a profession, as is evinced by the perfection of work attained by the laundries of the East. It is the design of the C^hemical Laniuhy Guide, to teach ladies liow to do up articles in a ; tylc equal to that of the best French laundress. The author has had extensive experience in laundry v.-orlc, having himself worked in one of the best laundries the country affords, and having been engaged for several years in teaching fine laundry work in large cities. He has also visited a number of noted laundries, and investigated and studied their methods. A boolv of this kind, however, in order to l)e com- plete and contain reliable methods embracing every department of scientific laundry work, and fully treating of the successful renovation of articles of every material, must of necessity, partake of the nature of a compiled work. The major part of the methods and directions presented, are those now employed by the best laundries, and the author learned them directly from the laumlries. He is :ilso iiulebted to Muspralt's C'liiMiiistiT applied to tlie arts, Dick's Encyclopedia, (loodliolir.cs Encyclope- dia, Inquire Within, and other sources too numerous to admit of acknowledgenient. Also uumy new and use- ful laundry methoeds and Bf^dding 240 General Index from 253 to 274 -"■^Sr^^ 5.-INTR0DUCTI0N. AT the outset, an ex]tlaiiati()n of the purpose ami scope of the Cliemical T.aiindry (Muide, may be of ben- efit to the l)eglnner in the ait of hm^ hiumli'v v/orl:. Every hidy is in practical pof^ession of the ele- ments of washing and ironing, and this work is in- tended to supplement this practical knowledge, by pre- senting methods that will ali'ord easier and ha]»pier re- sults, make thefinesseof tine laundr}' work famili;ir, and awakena definite interest in this most essential domestic ai't. Ladies are l)y far too conservative. They steadfastly follow old methods, leaving to the specialist in domestic arts, to discover and profit by superior methods, and to accomplish what they never imagined could be done. T^o doubt agents, M'hen introducing this subject, will be often met with the assertion, that ladies already know too much about washing and ironing. Forsooth, there is too intimate an acquaintance with the M'ays our fore- mothers did household work, but in this progressive age xii domestic arts have made wonderful advancement, as well as general science and the polite arts, and there is mnch that can be learned even by the oldest and best lionsekeeper. The interest and satisfaction too, afforded bj' metliods lliat effect quick, easy and admirable re- sults, will turn the irksome tasks of the laundry into pleasures. Although strictly a reference book for family use, tlie Chemical Laundry Guide embraces nearly eveiy method that would be of service to the professional launderer or laundress ; and its careful perusal and stiuly will be very profitable, for many hints will be received thereby, whidi will suggest exjjeriments ncxer before thought of in this branch of domestic economy. When- ever choice and delicate articles of any material retpiire hiundrj'ina' or renovating, the Chemical Laundry Guide may be proiitably consulted. The index at th.e end of tliebook willbe found especially conveniontforrcference. l>y reading the Explanatio:i of the Tiulcx, ( ?,\ 7 ) its plan and arrangement will be ri,'adilv understood. Tlu^ iriCth- ods are numbered, and whorover numerals occur in the context, they refer to the methods of those nu:nbcrs and not to the page numbers ; and to avoid needless repe- tition, where other metliods have an important Ijearing upon the one under consideratien, references are given. It is always advisable to look up the references. Many ladies may think perhaps, that the directions in tliese metliods are too })rccisc and over nice, that it makes little difference, whether soft or hard water, white or yellow soap, one or two washing and rinsing waters be nsed. The fact, however, cannot be too strong- ly urged thnt the more exactness with whicli nice laun- dry operations are conducted, the more perfect and pleasing will be the result. This idea of exactness is recognized in every other science, and why should it not be likewise in this'^ \\^ tlie directions be closely follow- ed, even the most vari;ible methods will rarely fail. Tn several of the departments, and especially in the removal of various stains, two or more methods are pre- sented for nearly the same purpose, and a lady may be pnzzled in respect to which it is best to en)])loy. Nat- ural judgement, however, will seldom lead astra}'. Every method presented is essential to some f(.»rm of laundry work, some case, or some material. It not un- frequently happens, however, in the more varialde pha- ses of laundry work, that one method will produce the desired effect in one case, and a happy result will follow, while the same metliod and precisely the same treat- ment for what is considered a similar case, will have little or no effect ; hence it is necessary to resort to some other treatment, to suit the particular case under ex- periment. To meet all cases, therefore, liaAc the several different methods been introduced. And when any particular one has been eelected for any particular case, and it does not have the desired eftect, it will only be necessary to resort to another, being careful always not to condemn the tirst treatment, until it has been thor- oughly tested, ^uch perplexity is not likely to occur, unless it be with very obdurate cases. The various chemicals employed in the metliods,will not injure the finest fabric nor the most delicate of colors, if used acM-ording to directions. Full directions accompany tlieir use, and where precaution is required, it is stated. No lady, therefore, need hesitate to employ any method, because the chemical agent is not familiar. The cost of nearly all these chemicals are trifling, and they may be obtained of any druggist. -^ -A^ ®l CHAPTER I. 6-GLOSSING LINEN. THE art of[)olisliing linon or giving starclied {irticles the same gloss and pearl iinish they j)osess when first purchased, is little understood outside of regular laundries. It may be easily ac(jiiired,liow(!ver, and its benefits are manifold. One of its chief advantages is, the great length of time that glossed articles will keep clean. Dirt cannot grime into the fabric, but slides ofl" the glassy surface. Everyone is aware, how long new collars and cufFt^ will wear without soiling, — twice as long as the home done up collar. Again, the stiffness is retained by the gloss. Ladies often notice that when articles starched in the usii;d manner, are laid awny, they soon become limp and tlm -tiffness dci'arfs. It Beems as though the starch evaporates. Er-^pccially is 16 this the case in wet weather. Glossed articles, on the contrary, retain their stitihcss in defiance of moisture, for any length of time. Ample proof of this is afforded by new shirts ; may be they Ijiy in stores ibr ye;ti-s, be- fore they arc sold, yet they are always lirm and >^tit ])cncl rated into the linen, it is only on the surface ; merely warm v\ater will dissolve the enamel and remove the dirt with it. The gloss is like a varnish to protect the linen. What brings the gloss so much in demand, however, is the beautiful appearance it l>estows ii])()n linen. l'>vcn to jnnslins it imparts a linen fini -h, ditficult to distinguish from the genuine linen. Tlic remark is often passed, that a gentleman may be ever so well dressed, yet his toilet is incomplete, without the neatly done up sliirt, cufi's, and collar. Nearly everyone has supposed tluit polishing was done by preparing the starch some ]iecnHar w a y or by putting some ingredient in it. This is not the case however. It is done entirely with the iron. Any starched article, calico and muslin, as well as linen, may be taken direct from the drawer already done up, and a 17 beautiful gloss given it simply by the use of the glossing iron. Shirts arc glossed on the sanje principal that boots are blacked. A boot is linst dampened with blacking, then the friction of the brush develops the polish ; after a shirt is ironed, it is slightly moistened with water, and the friction and heat of the glossing iron brings out the gloss. No nuitter from what substance, or in what man- ner the starch be prepared, provided only, the article contains starcli as a l)ody to work upon, a gloss may always be imparted. It is obvious, though, that an ar- ticle nicely starched and very stiff, will take a better gloss than a tlinjsy one. No two ladies, although they may use the same quality of starch and apparently pre- pare it in the same manner, will produce like results; the starch of the one will be pliable, iron smoothly, and have a proper stiffness ; while that of the other, will roll, stick to the iron, and be limpsy. In starch making, a great deal depends \ipon attention to the minutiaj and details. Below is given the laundry way of preparing starch, and the mode of applying it to the fabric. It is tlie most natural and simple way it can be prepared, and will doubtless appear very fiimiliar to many ladies, as just the way they have always done; luit we advise them to give careful attention to the minutiie and de- tails of this method, with the assurance that they will be agreeably suprised at the result. For glossing, articles 18 should be well washed, as the dirt is more apt to he visible than on a phiiii surface. The objection is often ofiered against polishing, that it wears and destroys the fabric. Such aji objection plainly shows that those who express it are entirely ignorant of the subject. As n() chemical is used to produce the gloss, how- can it possibly injure tlie fabric, any more than common ironing i The truth is, articles that arc always glossed will last much longer than when ironed in the usual way; for the obvious reason, they do not soil so easily, tind tlie dirt can be extracted without rubbing the article to pieces. 7.-LAUNDRY METHOD OF PREPARING STARCH. THE proportions given may be varied to suit the number of articles to be starched. Take one ounce of good bought Starcli, and add just enough dear soft water to convert it into a thick paste. Knead it well between clean fingers, carefully breaking up every lump and particle. Ivub it perfectly smooth, so that it may be entirely free from lumps and of the same con- sistency throughout. When tin's has been done, add to the paste nearly or quite a pint of boiling water. It should then be boiled very thoroughly at least half an 19 hour, or even longer. It ^v^]l iron more smoothly, and the full stifiening properties of the starch are better obtained l)y long boiling. !Stir it frequently -while boiling, to keep it frojn burning, and add a few drops of Blueing to give it a clear cast. When not stirring, cover from the dust; cover, also, when removed from the tire, to prevent a scum from rising. It is not neces- Bary to put any ingredient in the starch, unless it be a small (piantity ot the purest Ilog's Lard. For the al)ove proportions of Starch and water, a lump of Lard about the size of a tliimble is sutllcicnt. The Lard prevents any rolling or sticking of Uie starch, and makes it iron smoothly. The starch should always be strained through muslin or a coarse towel. 8.-APPLYING THE STARCH. N starching shirts, it is the liiundry custom to dry them previous to applying tlie starch. It is thought the shirts arc stitl'cr by this means. After drying, dip the bosom and cuffs into the starch while hot as the hand can bear; then spread the shirt out smoothly up- on a table or any hard surface, and, with the hands, work Ihe adhering starch thoroughly into l)oth sides of the linen, at the same time smoothing out the wrinkles. In this way the cloth will take up more of the starch, 30 and the more starcli the h'nen absorbs, of course, the stifFer it will be. By this after rubbing and smoothing out of the wrinkles, blistering also will be avoided. 9-ST ARCHING COLLARS AND CUFFS, IN laundries, collars and cuffs are usually given a second starching. After starching and rubbing in the starch tlio same as for shirts,( 8.) they are made to dry quickly, and arc then in the same manner, given a sec- ond starching, and again allowed to dry. They are not sprinkle 1 in the usual way, but while dry, arc rolled up in a wet cloth or blanket, and allowed to remain until the moisture penetrates evenly through them. It is a kind of sweating process, like the cigar maker sweats leaf tobacco. Treated in this manner, they will iron smoothly, be exceedingly stiff, and can readily be given the enamel-like finish, that always distinguishes the work of a first class laundry. The advantages will more than compensate for the extra labor, as they will keep clean and stiff twice as long as indifferently done up collars and cuffs. It is unnecessary to give shirts a second starching, unless it be desired to have them par- ticularly stiff. 21 lO.-SELF- ADJUSTING SHIRT BOARD. THIS p;it('iit Sliirt Board aids a lady vastly iu do- ing up u iL-hirt neatly, and with ease. It fits a sliirt perfectly about the shoulders and necic, and stretch- es the wrinkles out of the plaits. Many shirts are ex- ceedingly ditiicult to iron without leaving bad wrinkles ; the inner lining having shrunk more than the outside linen, the edges of the shirt front will be badly wrinkled, in spite of every exertion. The Self-Adjusting Shirt Board, however, entirely overcomes this difTicultY. The damp shirt front, srretched over the board, looks al- most ironed ; the iron is merely passed over it to dry out the moisture. The convex neck piece, at the head of the board, causes the shirt band to stand out in prop- er shape, and thereby, the collar will have a better fit around the neck of the wearer. The shirt bosom can also be smoothed clear up to the band. By the use of this board, a lady can iron two shirts, while she is ironing one in the usual way, and is saved the worry of pulling and stretching out the wrinkles with the hands. The Self-Adjusting Shirt Board makes shirt ironing a pleasure. 23 THE SELF-ADJUSTING SHIRT BOARD. ?3 11 -HOW TO USE THE SHIRT BOARD. BUTTON or pin the shirt band in the back, before inserting tlie l)oard in the shirt. Raise tlie clamp at the lout of the board, and holding the shirt bosom tant, smooth out the body of the shirt underneath the clamp, and catch it in the corner recesses; now lower the damp, and the shirt bosom will be held even and in place, entirely free from wrinkles. Do not be afraid of tearing tlie shirt. Make the board stretch out every wrinkle. It cann(»t tear the shirt, as the strain is even over the whole front, far more so than when stretched with the hands. The agents always teach purchasers of Family Right, how to use the Shirt Board ; but the directions here given, will be found convenient for fu- ture I'eferenee. 12.-CARE OF THE SHIRT BOARD. THE use of the Shirt Board for ironing, the pur- pose for which it was intended, Mill not soil the white covering. It is the laying around where dust can settle on it, that soils it. If laid away in a drawer im- mediately after using, the covering will keep clean for a long time. The muslin is cut to fit the board, and the edge is not a " ragged edge," but is neatly turned 24 under and fastened with light gimp tacks. When the covering becomes soiled, the tacks may be withdrawn with a case-knife, and the muslin washed and replaced, the same tacks being used. The softness and smootli- ness of the covered surface of the board admirably ad- apts it for shirt ironing. It is also very convenient for ironing collars, cuffs, ribbons or any small article. 13.-THE COMBINED CORRUGATED GLOSSING AND MOLDING IRON. IN glossing starched articles, it is requisite that only a small surfjice of the glossing iron sliould come in contact with the faln'ic, and hence, in most laun- dries the fiivorlte is the''hecl-irou,"wliich issliaped some- wliat like an ordinary sad-iron with its licel rounded. To produce tlie gloss, after the articles arc ironed and sliglitly moistened, the point of the " heel-iron"' is eleva- ted, and the article rubbed with the oval part of the iron. To polish with that iron, two separate operations are re- fpiired ; one to smooth with the smooth surface of the iron, and the other to polish with the rounded heel; and to produce a thorough polish., numerous rapid mo- tions are rerpiired, with a hard ])ressure of the heel upon the starched article, while the point of the iron is 25 held in an elevated position, which proces-s is tircsoine and straining to the arm of the operator. Tlie (■orni- gated Glossing Iron, ibr which I'nited States Letters Patent were granted, Dec. 3rd, ISTb, is destined i() take the precedence of all other glossing irons. Jt is of recent invention, bnt in some of the leading laujidrii-^f, v.'here it has been introduced, it gives the highest satis- faction. Tlie face of the iron is corrugated, or in other words, is composed of alternate oval li(>cls or ridges, and oval grooves, running across the iron ])arallel to each other. The grooves are open at each end, tliereby entire- ly separating the ridges from each other. Tims each heel produces its own gloss, independently of the other. t4.-ADVANTAGES OF THE CORRU- GATED GLOSSING IRON. TS chief advantage is, the articles do not have to be ironed previous to its use, but it -will smooth and polish at the same time. A shirt front is finished in one operation, thus saving time. Again, it does not re- quire hard pressure, but can be used all day without tiring the operator. In using this iron, the entire cor- rugated face rests on the starclied fabric, avoiding the strain upon the arm, produced in holdingtlie pi>int or heel 26 The Combined Corrugated Ulo^^siu"' and Molding Iron. 27 of the iron in an elevated position, as required in using other polishing irons ; and each one of tlie numerous sur- faces of this iron, produces at each motion of tlio iron, :iii effect equal to the effect of tlie entire one-surface iron, and hence it is readily seen, that tliis iron will polish about as much by a single motion, as a ouosurface iron will polish by as many motions r.s thci-o nve S('i)arate polishing surfaces upon this iron, tlie sinoutliing and glossing being performed at tlie saine time and by the same part of the iron. The principle of glossing is the same as in the use of the " heel-iron ;" jjut the tiresome disadvantages of the latter, are entirely overcome. The iron is provided with a collar molder, composed of a double heel, the object of which is to twitt the collars and cuffs so as to give them a perfect lit. The iron* is also provided with a (torrugated or rounded point, to faciliate the polishing of the small surfaces around the collars and bands of shirts, and between the plaits, ac- cessible only to the point of the iron. The ends of the corrugations forming the longitudinal edges of the face of the iron, are rounded, to prevent catching, wearing, or cutting the goods. 15.-H0W TO OPERATE THE CORRU- GATED GLOSSING IRON. AFTER, the shirt has been adjusted on the board, as in (11,) smooth it with the corrugated Gloss- 28 ing Iron just like an ordinary sad-iron wonld be used, and a iine gloss Avill be imparted to the shirt, with the expen- diture of no more time or trouble than when done np in tJie usual way. After the shirt is stretched (jv<'r tlie Ijoard it is an injprovement to rub the bosom, previous to us- ing the iron, witJi a clean white towel dampened with soft water. To gloss other starched articles, collars, cuiis, etc., spread them out smoothly on the ironing ta- ble, and after rubbing out the wrinkh s with the wet towel, iron them with the Glossing Iroii. Encu where articles are washed and ironed out of the hou.-e, tiiey may be glossed just as well after they are returneil. In that case, place the articles uj)on the hard suifaceof the board, slightly moisten them with soft water, and iron them over with the Glossing Iron, and the}^ will receive a line polish. If the article has been done up for months, it makes no diflference, for a gloss may always be im- parted. 16.-EXTRA FINE GLOSS. IF an extra fine polish be desired, instead of using the wet toM-el mentioned above, rub the surface to be polished with a sponge dipped in a weak Gum- Ara- bic solution, prepared as in ( 2S,) and then the Corru- gated Iron will produce a superb finish. The article 29 should l)e only light ly q)oiiged. rurchasers of Family Ilio-ht will l»e shown by the agent, a practical use of the corrugated Glossing Iron. i7.-M0LDING COLLARS AND CUFFS. MOLDLXG or twisting collars and cufls, is the process of giving them a round shape, whereby the collar neatly fits the neck, and the cuff the wrist. A collar or cuff is never sent outi'roni a first-class laundry, without being thus molded. The operation is performed altogether with the heel of the iron, and the fit is much more perfect than when shaped with the hands. "When these articles are ironed out flat and afterwards shaped with the hands, wrinkles cannot be avoided. Molding a collar is easy to accomplish ; but to do it skillfully may re(|uire a little practice. The process, however, is nnich facilitated by the use of the curved double heel of the Corrugated Glossing Iron, the mode of using which is as follows : — Any lady, by a little practice, may be- come an expert in molding collars. 18~H0W TO OPERATE THE COLLAR MOLDER. THE article is first ironed and glossed, then in us- ing the double heel, the collar or cufl' to be molded, 30 ed, is arranged with one end toward the operator, and the point of the iron in the same direction. The lower rounded surface of the heel is pressed M'itli one hand upon the farther end of the collar, for example; and as tJie iron is drawn toward the operator, the farther end of the collar is drawn bj the otiicr hand in the same di- rection, over the upper rounded surface of tlie heel, which process, with the aid of the heat of tlie iron, curls the collar into the required shape. Cuffs are molded in the same way ; and it is found that the sej.arate roun- ded surfaces or double heel, operate better in this mol- ding process, than one continuous curve or single heel. Collars that are very stiff, can thus be molded to as perfect a fit as could be desired. In the case of stand- ing collarrs, if the heel of the iron is pressed upon the tips of the collar by one hand, and then the iron dra\-. n toward the operator, and at tlie same time, the collar drawn in the same direction with the other hand, tin' tips or points of the collar may be rolled over; anl when worn, the points will curve out from the neck o.' the wearer, and look more artistic than when tunu-d over square. Turn down collars should be first folded over with the fingers, and then molded with the iron. Ladies collars and cuffs should always be molded, ao w^ell as those of gentlemen, for no collar or cuff looks or sets well, unless properly molded. 19.-LAUNDRY STYLE OF FOLDING SHIRTS. THIS is a very neat way of folding shirts, and to some ladies may be of considerable interest. In this style of folding, the cuffs can never get wrinkled or creased; and it is also very convenient when shirts are packed for the jonrney, as they can thus folded, be laid away in a very small space. Lay the shirt with the bosom downward upon the table, and fold l)oth sides over the back, but instead of folding the sleeves parallel with the sides, as is usually done, lay them out trans- versely, at right angles to the front. Now bring the body of the shirt up over the sides. Take one sleeve and fold it directly back, sideways, over the body of the shirt, and turning, lay it down lengthwise with the front, fold- ing the cuft' over the base of the bosom. Serve the other sleeve and cuff in the same manner ; thus the cuffs lay over the base of the bosom, and cannot get wrin- kled. Place a pin through the back and sleeves, at the apex of the angle formed by the upper portions of the sleeves ; this will hold the folds even and in place. If each fold be compactly pressed down with a warm iron, a doz- en shirts folded in this style, maybe placed in a box of the length and width of the bosom, and only five inches in 32 height, and neither the bosom nor the cuffs can get wrinkled or creased. 20.-CARE OF SAD-IRONS. MANY housekeepers are forever vexed with smut- ty and rusty sad-irons. Every time ironing day conies around, much time and patience is wasted in cleaning irons, before they are fit to use. The question occurs, wliy do ^ad-irons rust ? Look how they are usually left laying about in the damp and rain, or wherever it hai^pens. Treated in this way, any iron or steel instru- ment will corrode. A carpenter would be beside himself if his tools were thrown about in so careless a manner. How does he always keep them bright and polished '{ surely not by letting them care for themselves. He frequently oils them, and keeps them in a dry place. Tf ladies would only take a similar care of sad-irons, if they would oil them after using, and lay them away in a dry place, the surface of the irons would keep free from rust. The oil will not soil the clothes ; for after the iron is heated and rubbed with a dry cloth, no trace of the oil remains. Irons cared for in this manner, in addition to keeping free from rust, will iron much more smoothly. 21-SCOURING SAD-IRONS. IN using sad-irons, purtionii of the starch arc liable to adhere to the iron, and the best way of cleaning them, is to scour them with Ihiburiit Brick. Procure some Unburnt Brick, ( the same as is used for scouring knives and forks,) powder it and s})read it out over brown paper, and then rub the iron over it. Sad-irons should never be heated on a stove where all kinds of cooking is in process, for the irons are almost sure to get smut- ted. Before setting on the irons, always clean and well brush tlie stove. It is a convenient j^slan to always have on the ironing table, a piece of jello.y Beeswax tied up in a coarse cloth. When tlic iron is almost hot enough to use, but not quite, rub it quickly with the Beeswax cloth, and tlien with a clean dry cloth. The Corrugated Glossing Iron, altlioagh polished and case-hardened, like steel, will rust and corrode if exposed to the damp ; but if oiled after using, and put in a dry place, it will never tarnish. Sawdust, Bran and Salt, arc all good for cleaning; irons. 22.-SAD-IR0NS DEEPLY RUST-EATEN FREQUENTLY sad-irons become so badly rust-eaten, as to appear entirely ruined, but no iron was ever so 34 badlj scaled or incnisted with oxide, that it could not be cleaned by the following method : — Immerse the iron for a few minutes, in a solution of one part of concen- trated Sulphuric Acid, to ten parts of water. On with- drawing the iron, dip it in a bath of hotLinie water, and hold it there until it becomes so heated, that it will im- mediately dry on being taken out. Afterward, rub the iron with dry Bran or Sawdust, and it will be chemi- cally clean. Paradoxical as it may seem, strong Sul- phuric Acid will not attack iron, with anything of the energy of a solution of the same. In handling Concen- trated Sulphuric Acid, be careful not to let it come in contact with the hands or clothing. 23-NON-CONDUCTING HOLDER. As AD-IKON holder that will not easily conduct heat will be found very convenient in the laundry. Such a holder may be prepared of several folds of cloth, with the inside lined with leather. The outside will be soft for the hands, and the leather will keep the holder much cooler than it Avould otherwise be. A holder of this description, made in leisure moments, will last for years, and saves the bother of hunting paper or rags at every ironing. It has been the aim, by scattering these sim- ple hints throughout the Chemical Laundry Guide, to impress the fact that it is a vast saving of time in the long run, to have everything connected with tlie laun- dry exact, handy and neat. Hy being a tritle precise, far better work will be done, and the drudgery of the laundry will l)e converted into a pleasure. The main secret of the perfection attained by large laundries, is the neatness, order and system which prevail throughout every department. 24-TO PRESERVE CLOTHES PINS AND LINES. CLOTHES PINS are inexpensive articles, and their preservation may appear of little account, yet old clothes pins that have 1)een pro]ierly preserved, are much superior to new ones. They v.ill more firmly fasten the clothes upon the line; and the discouraging sight of the clothes lying in the dirt, which not unfrequently greets a lady after a tiresome washing, will be avoided. If every month or so, clothes pins are boiled a few min- utes, and then quickly dried, they become more flexible and durable. Clothes lines also will last longer and keep in better order, if occasionly treated in the same manner. CHAPTER II. 25.-VARIOUS STARCHES AND THEIR USE. COMMERCIAL starch for laundry purposes, is usu- ally made from wheat or rice. Poland starch is con- sidered superior to the American or English. There are several kinds of domestic starch which may be made in various ways, and ofa variety of substances. They each have their peculiar merits and special uses. Starch for linen glossing has been fully treated in (7), and among the most important of home-made starches are the fol- lowing : — V' 26.-P0TAT0 STARCH. A KNOWLEDGE of making Potato Starch of a good quality is very important, for this starch has the 87 advantage that it can always l)e made at liome. Wash several good mealy Potatoes, grate them into a pan of flean water, and stir the mixture well. As soon as the thick part subsides to the bottom, pour off' all the white water into another vessel, keeping back all the pulj). Again add water to the pulp and pour off the whitened water as before, repeating this ])rocess as long as the water eoines oft' whitish. Let all the whitened water that has been ])oured oif remain nndistnrbed for some time, and the white part will settle to the bottom, leav- ing the water quite clear. This subsided matter is the starch. Pour off' the water and dry the starch in the sun. The starch will generally weigh about one-fifth of the Potatoes used, if tliey are of the best quality. ""^ 27.-TO MAKE GOOD FLOUR STARCH. THE manner of making Flour Starch presented in this method is tlie quickest way it can be prepared;" the starch will be of excellent quality, and the method is much better than the old way of preparing Flour Starch by washing dough. Mix sifted Flour gradually M'ith cold water to free it from lumps, and then stir in cold water until the mixture will pour easily. Next stir it into a pot of boiling water, and let it boil five or Bix minutes, stirring it frequently. A little Lard will 38 make it iron smoother. Strain through muslin. This Starch answers very well for both cottons and linens. ^ 28.-GUM-ARABIC STARCH. PROCURE two ounces of white Gum- Arabic, and reduce it to a powuor. Place tlie powder in a pitch- er, and pour over it Loili-iL;' s^uft water — a pint or more, according to the degree of strengtli desired. Let it remain over night to settle, and in the nioruing pour it from tlie dregs into a clean bottle, cork it, and save ibr use. Tliis starch is used for silks and muslins, and will impart to lawns a newness when nothing else can restore them after washing. It is also excellent for starching thin white nmslins and bol>1)incts, and makes«a delicate sizing for silk ribbon.- and. Irimniings. Gum-Arabic Starch mav he diluted \\ith water, when desirable to have a weak solution. 29-STARCH FOR COLORED ARTICLES. DISSOL^rE and add to every pint of starcli, while boiling, a piece of Roche Alum the size of a thimble. By so doing, the colors Mill keep brighter for a longer 39 time, wliich is very desirable wliere dresses or other ar- ticles of lively colors are often washed, and the trouble is but trill in a:. -^ 30.-GLUE STARCH. GLUE Starch is much used for stiffening printed goods of various material. It makes an excellent sizing, and gives a finish as well as stiffness to the goods. Boil a piece of glue four inches square, in four quarts of water, and keep it in a bottle well corked. 31.-ISINGLASS STARCH. DISSOLVE two ounces of Isinglass flakes in a quart of water, and bottle for use. Isinglass makes a del- icate sizing for silk ribbons and fine trimmings. It is the favorite sizing of the French laundress, and its ex- cellence is now familiar to the best milliners and dress- makers of this country. As a sizing for delicate articles, it cannot be excelled. 40 32.-WATER-PR00F STARCH. THIS is a patent French method emplo3-e(l in Paris.' It consists in passing tlie goods, after being properly starched, throiigli a bath of Chloride of Zinc, at a tem- peratui-e of about 0')'']'':ilir. After several successive washings the starclv will still remain in the fabric. This method is valuable in cases where starched ar- ticles are a great deal exposed to moisture. 33.-NEW PROCESS OF RENDERING CLOTH WATER-PROOF. FABRICS may be rendered vrater-proof by thiB method, without destroying their ventilating quali- ties. Place in a metal vessel of about six gallons ca- pacity, twenty ])Ounds of Sulphate of Alumina cut in thin slices, and in anothc;!" similar receptacle, three pounds of Oleic Acid aiid six (ju;irts of Alcohol. Thoroughly dissolve tlie lailer compound, and stir ]t with a wooden stick for twenty minutes, gradually ad- ding the Sulphate of Alumina. Leave the whole about twenty-four hours to settle; the Oleic Acid and the Alcohol will then bo at the sTirface, and can be de- 41 canted. Filter the remaining (le})osit tlir(»ui.':li llannel, and press it into a cake. This cake caji he dried hy lieat and then powdered. One and a halt" pounds of the powder to twenty gahous of water, will he an ample proportion for applying to silken or linen clothes, and wool will not require more than one pound. It is well to strain the solution. The articles re(juire only to he thoroughly saturated with this solution and dried in the air. This method has been awarded a patent. 34-CONGREE STARCH FOR MUSLINS. SOAP may he disused in the getting up of fine mus- lins, hy treating tliem agreeably to the Oriental custom, which consists in washing them in plain water, and then boiling them in Congree or rice water. After which, they ought not to be submitted to theoperation of the smootliing iron,l)ut should be rubbed smooth with a.glass bottle containing liot water (2P>1.) The water in which Ilice is boiled without being tied up in a bag, is as good as Poland starch, for clear starching muslins. After it is ])oured olf from the rice, tlu^ water should be boiled till it evaporates to a thick consistency, and then strained. 42 35--TO STARCH MUSLINS AND PIQUES IN launJrying tine muslins :anJ )»i>jnf':-, the failure is quite as often in tlu^ ft arching as in the washing. A good sized pailful of stain-h should be used, in which three or four inches of Stearin Candle has b€>en melted while the starch is hot. The starch should be thorougli- ly s(jucc/.c 1 from the goods, and the articles folded whilst damp, between folds of old sheeting or table- linen. It is a good plan to pass them throug^i the wringing machine, as ;dl lumps of starch will be thus re- moved, riijues should be ironed as lightv as possible, and the iron ought never to come in contact ^\'itll the outside surface When absolutely necessary to iron them on the right side, an old cambric handkerchief is the best to |)la(e between the iron and the material Mus- lins look very well v/hen starched and clapped dry while the starch is hut ; then fold in a damp (doth, until they become quite damp, belbre ironing them, tor if nnislins are sprinkled in the usual way, they are cpiite liable to be spotted. 36-TO THICKEN AND STRENGTHEN MUSLIN. D IP the muslin in dilute Sulphuric Acid, which will strengthen it very much, and increase its thickness. 43 This is llie process employed in the I'actoiies of Man- chester, Enghmd. The cotton thus prepurcd, is techni- cally termed "Ijlanhet/' The Acid should In; (piite dilute, and the article should Ite immersed only lor :i few minutes, and then rinsed w ell in clear water. 37.-YELL0W LINEN. LINEN that has acquired a yellow or bad color by careless washing, may be restored to a brilliant, whiteness, if treated according to this method. The process is called in laundries, "The Bleach.'" It is es- pecially nsed for shirts, collars and cuHs, ;ind its object is to give them that clear white appearance these ar- ticles always possess when done up at a lirst-class laun- dry. After the dirt is extracted and the clothes are boiled, they are then }*ut into the " Bleach," which is prepared and nsed as ibllows : — 38.-THE LAUNDRY "BLEACH." TAKE a quarter of a pound of Chloride of Lime, and mix it with sufficient cold water to form a paste. Work the paste entirely free from lumps, put it into a vessel, and add two gallons of boiling water. Allow it 44 to settle, and decant the clear liquid, which is the bleach- ino- llaid. Iniinerse the article in the hquid for five or six minutes, and then without wringing, put them into water scalding hot, and let them remain about fifteen minutes; this is done to neutralize the eliect of the Chloride of Lime upon tlie linen. If this precaution is not talcen, the texture of the goods will be injured. Never attempt to bleach unwashed linen; and avoid using the liquor too strong, for tlie action of t!ie" Uleach " u very ])0werful, and if the linen is left in too long, it v.'ill be rendered rotton. Great care must be taken. Notwithstanding the powerful aetion of the " Bleacli," experience has given iilMindant ]troof that it \\'\\\ not injure tlie goods in the least, if properly used. This process is in use in nearly every laundry establiehment, and is regarded as indispensable in giving clothes a clear, brilliant whiteness. The " Bleach" will also re- move almost any kind of stain, except iron mould. 39.--T0 BLEACH BROWN SHEETING. FmST soak the clothes for twelve hours in strong soap F.u Js. For every twelve yards of sheet ing, take a quarter of a pound of Chloride of Lime and dissolve it in enough boiling water, so that when immersed in the liquid, the cloth may be entirely covered. As spon 45 as soon as the Lime is dissolved, strain the sohition through a coarse clolh; then put the brown sheeting in the strained Lime water, stirring it continually, and after it has remained thus in the liquid for half an hour, take out the cloth and rinse it well in boiling water, to re- move all the Lime water. Then boil it up in strong soap-suds, and hang out to dry. The work of weeks of grass bleaching will thus be accomplished in a day. 40.-GERMAN METHOD OF BLEACHING WHITE GOODS. THIS method consists in employing Oil of Turpen- tine as a bleaching agent. It is a favorite and extensively used method throughout Germany; ;md before American manufacturers learned the proi>er way of bleaching, they were conipelled to send certain kinds of goods to Germany, to be bleached. The Gorman method possesses a great advantage over other methods, for there is no danger of the goods being injured. Dis- solve one part Oil of Turpentine in three parts strong Alcohol. Place a teacupful of this mixture in the water used for the last rinsing; the clothes are to be rinsed in this, well wrung out, and hung in the open air to drv. The bleachinir action of the Oil consists in its 40 changing Oxygen into Ozone when exposed to the light, aiui in the process of drjing, tlie Turpentine dis- appears, leaving no trace hehiud. 41.-T0 STARCH AND IRON WHITE VESTS. PEEPARE the starch for line white vests, the same as for shirts ( 7.) After dipping the vest in the hot starch, lay it on a clean hard surface, and with the liands work the adhering starch well into the vest, at the same time drawing it into proper shape, and smoothing out the wrinkles. Let it dry in tliis shape, and instead of sprinkling, place it without rolling up,-betwecn damp sheets. When damp enough to iron, Hrst pull the vest into its proprn- shape, and smooth out the wrinkles with a damp clotli; then having underneath the vest a very soft ironing surface, do not apply the iron directly on the vest, but place over it a damp cloth, and press the clolh till quite dry. In this vray the twills and llowers will be brought out clear and distinct as they are vrhen new, and the vest will have a proper shape. 42.~RAISED EMBROIDERY AND FLOWERED COLLARS. THE surface on which any kind of embroidered work is ironed should be very soft — composed of a num- 47 ber of folds of liannel. fStretcli out the article smoollilj and laj it on this soft t^urface Avith the right side down- ward, and then press heavily with the iron on the wrong side. The sott tlannel allows the raised portions to sink down, and the flowers and embroidery will not be all pressed together, but will have a clear outline. Tsew linen may be embroidered more easily by rubbing it over with fine white soap, which will prevent the thread from cracking. 43.~D0ING UP LACE CURTAINS. DOUBLE the curtain lengthwise, and tack the ends together with a needle and thread, this being done so that the curtain may easily handled in the water. Prepare a strong lather of white soap and water, and add one ounce of Aqua Anmiouia. Soap should never be rubbed on the curtain, nor should the material itself be rul)1)ed ; sluicing it up and down in the suds will answer quite as well, and does not tear it to pieces. Continue to wash the curtain through succes- sive lathers, until the last one does not appear dirty. Rinse through several waters Avith a little Blueing or Rose Pink ( 63 ) in the last. They may be starched to any degree of stiffness that may suit the taste. Many ladies attempt to iron lace curtains ; but this is folly. 48 They shouM always lie strctclieil tight and tlms al- lowed to dry. Either stretcli tlieiii tipjlitly over (juilting frames, or, having taeked a clean white slieet over the tioor of an occupied room, stretch the curtain tightly over it, and fasten with pins. This is the only correct wav of doing up lace curtains. 44.-LADIES' LINEN SUITS. LINENS properly laundried are elegant sununer costumes; but to most, ladies, the art of preserving the new appearance of linen suits is very iH'rplcxing. Many ladies try to be so careful, that they may wear tliem the wdiole season without soiling them, tor they arc well aware that, when once washed, the color and lustre disappears. The suits most in vogue arc of a hay, straw or amber color. They are made on machijics by factory girls, and are then sent to the laundries to be given the color and finish. The methods cniployed are easy to follow; the lustre and almost any cohu* de- sired may l)e readily given them. For example, if a hay color be desired, take some Hay and steep it just as tea is stec})cd ; ;md after the suit is cashed and rinsed, it is immersed in this Hay tea. Avhich will give the liay color. The lustre is imparted while the linen is being iro4ied, I'reparc a sizing as follows: — Dissolve bought 49 starch in cold water, using just enough water to convert it, by rubbing between the fingers, into a paste entirely free from lumps ; then add soap water to this creamy starch or paste, until the mixture is quite thin. Do not add soap-suds, but a soap solution, prepared by simply dissolving white soap in hot water. Then, while ironing, lightly dampen a portion of the suit with this sizing, and innnediately iron dry the moistened portion. Con- tinue thus until the whole suit is ironed, and the result will be a fine glossy finish. If a straw color be desired, steep Straw into a tea ; if an amber color, obtain some Amber and prepare an Amber tea or solution. Almost any color that may suit the taste may be imparted by steeping a tea of some substance of similar color, and dressing the suit with it. The lusti-e is always added by using tlu^ sonp and starch sizing, as above. 45.-lR0NiNG AND FOLDING TABLE LINENS. IN ironing table linens, there is quite a hnaclc in fold- ing them so that they may be convenientl}' spread over the table, and the creases caused by the folds may not be visible. The snowy table cloth looks much neater, if it presents a smooth even surface. The crea- ses so often seen in the table cloth, which is otherwise 50 faultlessly done up, are too suggestive of the heat of the laundry. By observing the accompanying direc- tions for ironing and folding table linens, a pleasing result will follow. Only one sidt% ut'cour.-e, need be smoothed. First ibid the table cloth the long way, with the right side in, then bring both the outer edges even with the middle crease, thus exposing ibr smoothing half of the right side, a fourth above and a fourth underneath. Xow smooth ail ol" the right side Vv hii-h is exposed aliove and underneath. Next bring over Ijoth of these new creases even with the middh; crease, therein' exposiiig to the iron another poi'tion of the i-ight side above and under- neatli. Iron these j)t)rtions. Tlie middle crease is novr reversed, which brings the last termed creases even with ea('h other, and the remaining unii-oned portion of the riu'ht side abov(^ and underneatli will be exposed for ironin"'. All ol' tlie riglit side Is now ironed, and the table cloth is in eight folds, length wi^e. Finish by fold- ing it crosswise, and bringing the outer edges even with the middle crease. The table cloth will mnv be smoothed and folded in a very convenient form, ibr spreading over the table ; and when spread out, the creases will disaj)pear. This is also a good way of folding napkins and handkerchiefs. CHAPTER III. 46~WASHING. THROUGHOUT the world, wherever man dwells, water is used for cleansing purposes. Previous to its use, however, it may itself require to be cleansed. The impurities of water are of two kinds. Earthy matter, clay, sand, lime, &c., mechanically suspended in it, which mak(!S it appear cloudy and turbid. Then, again, dissolved substances, which contaminate and render the water hard, although it may appear clear and pure. In order to have clothes clear and soft after washing, it is highly imperative that the water used should itself be free from all impurities. The surest way to clarify turbid water is by filtration. The principles of filtra- tion are very simple, and are universally understood. Any box or cask will answer, and Charcoal is the usual material throucrh which to filter the water. The foul- 53 est ditch water, made to pass throngli Charcoal, comes out clear, brisrht and sweet. 47.-SP0NGY IRON FOR FILTERING WATER. IT is confidently stated \)y cliemists that the best filter fi)r impure water is Spongy Iron. Bacteria and germs are not kilk-d Ijy IjeinL?: passed through Charcoal, but are destroyed by filtering through Spongy Iron. The organic matter is destroyed by the oxygen liber- ated by the iron from the water, and the ferrous hydrate resulting fruin the solution by organic matter is re- oxidized by the oxygen dissolved in the water, so that the process of purification is a continous one, and the Spongy Iron is not destroyed by the operation. 48-POPULAR METHODS OF CLEARING V/ATER. M^^ steamboats on the Oliio and Mississippi ers clear the dirty riv(^r watei- l)y adding ground Mustard to it and allowing it to settle. In England and France, as well as in America, a popular 53 method of clearing muddy water is to add a few grains of powdered Alum to it. Two or three grains are usually sufficient for a (uiart of water. TJiis will ef- fectually clear the water, but at the same time it aug- ment's the hardness of the water by altering its chemi- cal composition. By far tlie superior way is by the following method : y 49.-EGG AND VINEGAR METHOD. BEAT an Egg and three tablespoon fuls of Yincgar to- gether. Stir this mixture into a tubful of the muddy water, and let it remain undisturbed until the impurities of the water, together with the Egg mix- ture, settle to the bottom in a 3'ello\\ ish and very dirty sediment. Decant the water from this sediment, and it will be as ckar and pure ?s spring water. This is a Eimple and very valuable method. 50.-HARD WATER. WATER that is hard and unfit for cleansing purposes, on account of the dissolved impurities it may con- tain, will be now considered. Many people use Pearl- ash, or Potash to soften hard water, but these ingredi- 54 eDts are apt to injure the cloth. The method given below cannot be too highly recommended. Water soft- ened by tliis process cannot injure the finest goods nor the most delicate of colors, and it will render tlie clothes clearer and softer than when washed in rain water. It is also very nice for washing the skin, or for any cleansing purpose whatever. It is a costless and easy method. Water thus softened is usually termed " Broke-Water." 51~METH0D OF PREPARING *' BROKE- WATER." FILL a tub or barrel half tuU of wood ashes. Hick- ory ashes are tlie best, hut any wood ashes will answer, and sometimes even coal ashes are used. Sift the ashes through a fine sieve, to separate any black coals they may contain, as these will give the " Broke- Water," or lye, a blackish hue. Next fill up tjie tub with water, and allow it to stand over night. If hot water be used, half an hour will answer. From half a gallon to a gallon of this " Broke-Water," i>ut into a boiler of hot but not boiling water, will cause the impurities of the water to rise to the surfare in a milky skum, which may be easily skimmed off, and the ■water underneath will be as clear as the purest spring 55 water. When tlie liquiil is all iiscfl, more water can be poured on the same ashe:^, and thus tlie " Eroke- Water"' may he prepared whenever it is wanted. f]very family that has been accustomed to use hard water should try this method. 52.~-WASHING CRYSTAL MANY people have a strong prejudice against the use of any preparation except soap to aid in taking the dirt out of clothes. They say it eats the cloth and tnrns it yellow. In the case of many of the so-called washing crystals in market, this prejudice is just; yet chemistry would bo but a meagre science if it could not give a preparation which would be successful in extracting dirt from linen and cotton, ;md combine it in such proportions that it would be entirely harm- less. In laundry establishments, washing fluids are universally used, resulting in a great saving of labor and time, and proving far less destructive to M'earing apparel than the old mode of washing. Surely, any method wdiicli saves labor and time, and accomplishes better results than the old plan, ought to be introduced into the family. Look at the advantages : No rubbing the skin off the hands, nor tearing the clothes to pieces ; a large washing finished before breakfast, the clothes 56 out to dry, the house in good order, all comfortable again for the day, and the family saved from washing day annoyances. Surely, no lamily can forego such comforts. Another great advantage in the use of washing com- pounds, which should not be overlooked, is the small amount of soap that will be I'equired for a washing. A good washing crystal will do away with more than one- half the soap that without it would be necessary. The quantity of soap saved every ye;ir by this means is an item of no small importance. Several plans of washing that are in use in large laundries, and a few formulae for preparing the best washing crystals, are presented. All of them are val- uable methods, and none will injure the goods in the least. A lady may select whichever one is most convenient. 53~PR0F. TWELVETREE'S METHOD, THE plan of washing largely in use in England is called "The Pvecipc of Prof. Twelvetree." It has an advantage in the use of the lime, which possesses strong bleaching properties, and will render the clothes beautifully white. By this method the finest laces, linens, cambrics, &c., can be readily cleansed, with lit- tle trouble. 57 On tlie night previous to washing, select from the clothes to be washed all the coarse and dirty pieces, sep- arating them from the fine. Then soak both lots over night, in separate tubs of soft water. Next, the liquid for a large washing is prepared as follows : Put in an- other tub half a pound of good brown Soap, finely sliced, half a pound of Soda and three ounces of fresh, unslaked Lime. Mix them all together, and add one gallon of boiling soft water. Stir the mixture well to thoroughly incorporate the ingredients, and let it stand till morning. Then strain oft' the clear liquid, but be careful to leave all sediment behind. Having ready in the boiler about ten gallons of boiling soft water, pour in the prepared liquid, keeping back all settlings that may yet remain in it. Then throw in the clothes and boil them about twenty minutes or half an hour. It is a good plan to put an earthen plate in the bottom of the boiler to prevent tJie clothes from burn- ing. After boiling tlie clothes the allotted time, take them out, scald them, blue them, and rinse them in clear soft water, and they will then be as clear and white as snow. If the washing be small, and less than ten gallons of water be required in which to boil the clothes, less in proportion of the liquid of Lime, Soap and Soda should l)e used. In the country, where it is difficult to procure fresh Lime, a large quantity of the liquid can be prepared at one time. Preserved in hot- 58 ties, tightly corked, it will keep for years, always ready for use. 54.-AN EXCELLENT DETERGENT FLUID. THE following washing fluid has proven very suc- cessful : Take two and a half pounds of Salsoda, half a ])oiind of norax, quarter of a pound of un- slaked Lime, two ounces of Salts of Tartar, and one and a half ounce of Li(piid Anunonia. Dissolve the Soda and I'orax in half a gallon of hot water. Let it settle, and when clear pour it off carefully. Then add the other ingredients, and turn upon the whole four gallons of cold water. The fluid is now ready for use, and should be kept in a cask or jug. The night before washing, take six tablespoonfuls to a tubful of clothes, mixing it with four ]>ailfuls of warm water. Soak the clothes over night. IN'ext morning add hot water enough to wasli them with good soap-suds. Then boil tlie clothes. Another tubful of clothes may be washed in the saine water used for the first boiler. One trial of this fluid will show its good effects. The recipe has been sold at a high price, and a great deal of money has been made out of the manufacture of thib fluid. 59 55 -BORAX WASHING CRYSTAL THE washerwomen of Holland and Belgium, so provcvl'iallj clean, and who get their linen so beautifully white, use Borax instead of Soda for a washing crj'stal. Many laundries have adopted this method. It is used in the proportion of half a pound of Borax powder to ten gallons of water. This method will save the Soap nearly one-half For laces, cam- brics, &c., an extra (piantity of Borax is used. For crinolines, requiring to be very stiff, a still stronger so- lution is necessary. Borax is a neutral salt, and will not injure the finest fabric. It is also good to soften hard water, and is excellent for the toilet. 56.-FRENCH WASHING COMPOUND. THIS compound is used by French laundresses, and is now largely cmj^loyed by laundries in this country. It will be found very effectual, and entirely harmless. Dissolve one pound of hard Soap in six gal- lons of water, then add a quarter of an ounce of Spirits of Turpentine and half an ounce of Spirits of Harts- horn. The above (piantity is sufficient for a medium- sized washing. ee 57.--JAVELLE WATER. IT is very convenient to always have on hand in the family the cclebratod Javellc Water, small (jiianti- ties of which will render the most soiled garmentb per- fectly white. It should be used only in small quanti- ties. It is prepared by taking four pound:-; of Salsoda to one }>ound ol" C^hloride of Lime and one gallon of water. Tut the Salsoda into a vessel placed over the tire, and add a gallon of boiling water. Let it boil about fifteen minutes. Next, make the Chloride of Lime free from lumps and add it to tlie Soda, solution. When cool, pour tlie solution into a l;;r:^c jug or bot- tle, cork tightly, and it will keep, always ready for use. The materials are cheap, and the mixture easily made. 58.-VEGETABLE COLORS. IT is hardly necessary to remind ladies that none of these washing or bleaching })reparations should be used in doing up colored articles. .Mthough they do not injure the fabric, they are apt to bleach out and destroy vegetable colors. jSTeither should they l»o used with woolens and flannels, as they will render such 61 materials liarsli. For white goods only can they be profitably employed. 59.-ASS0RTING CLOTHES. IN large washes, much labor and soap can l^e saved by assorting the clothes and soaking them over night, previous to washing them. In assorting the wash, put the flannels in one lot, the colored goods in another, the coarse white clothes in nnothcr, and the fine white arti(;les in a fourth. Wash the fine white clothes first, the coarse white articles in the same water, and then wash the colored goods. The skilful treatment of flannels and colored articles will be fully given in chapters appropriated to them. It is a good plan to save the suds, after washing, to water the garden, or to harden sandy yards or cellars. GO-BLUEING, AGEEAT deal of vexation is experienced by house- wives in the use of blueing. Many blues settle on the clothes in spots and render them streaked. The object of blueing clothes is to clear them and give them a bright look. Articles properly blued will look as 63 fresh and bright as when llioy were new. The chief requisite of a good hhieing is the ability to diffuse it- r^elf tliroughout the rinse water, and to always remain in solutiun, tlie whole water being thoroughly blued, and no particle of tlie blue remaining undissolved to settle on the clothes. Aniline Blue possesses this prop- erty, and is the blue usually preferred by laundries. It is considered superior to others. 61.-ANILINE BLUE. TAKE two ounces of Aniline Blue to half a gallon of clear vrater. Tepid water is the best. Let the Blue dissolve thoroughly, and put the solution away in bottles. The above quantity will last for some time. Use in tlie rinse water from a tcaspoonful to a table spoonful, according to the size of the washing. The proper quantity to be used can be readily determined by the appearanc^e of the water. (.Mothes do not re- quire so very much blueing, nor yet too little. They may have a decidedly blue appearance while wet, but- in the process of ironing and drying the excess of blue disappears, and a brilliant white remains. Nothing can excel the }iure Aniline Dye for blueing clothes, and such is its strength tliat It is the clieapest that can be used. 63 62.-CHINESE SOLUBLE BLUE. CHINESE Soluble Blue also makes an elegant blue- ing for laundry use. It is prepared and used in the same manner, and in the same ])roj)ortions, a;? the Aniline Blue (f!lj. It is a blue powder exceedingly soluble, and, when once dissolved in water, it Ibrnis a clear, permanent blue liquid, entirely free from sedi- ment. It is not even necessary to shake it before using. 63.-R0SE PINK. . THE French laundress very frequently employs Eose Pink instead of blueing to (dear delicate ar- ticles. It is considered much supei'ior to bhu^ing for line nnislins, laces, and various silk goods, as it will impart to delicate articles a very ])right and beautiful a])pearancc. Rose Pink may be procured of tiie chemist, and is used in the same M'ay ;is the Indigo Blue. Tie up a small quantity in a piece of llaiind, and squeeze drops of the Pink into the water until it is colored a pale ])ink. We would recommend ladies to try Kose Pink whenever they may have occasion for doing up delicate white articles. IT •'-^va CHAPTER IV. 64~S0AP OF DOMESTIC MANUFAC- TURE. ^T^IIE quantity of Soap consumed Ly a nation J_ would 1)0 no inaccurate measure whereby to es- timate its wealth and civilization." This remark of Leibig, uttered centuries ago, is as true to-day. Soap is indispensable to every human being. The manufac- tui'e of Soap is stri/tly scientific, and a complete treatise would fill \(>lmiies. Tliis work will give only a few nietliods for the domestic manufacture of Soap, whereby ;ai excellent quality of soft, hard and toilet Soa])S, can be easily made, with economy, at home. To those hidi(,'S who delight to experiment and improve upon old methods, this chapter Is especially devoted. S 65.-S0FT SOAPS. OAP is a chemical combination of some fatty sub- stance with Caustic Lye. Soft soap differs from hard 65 soap in having Potash as its alkaline base, instead of Soda. It is more or less pasty and gelatinous. Manufacturers of commercial soft soap obtain Lye from Potasli, but in domestic manufacture it is usually supplied by Ashes. To make good soaj), it is essential at the out- set to understand how to make good Lye. In the fol- lowing method a few hints are given which may be of service : 66.-T0 MAKE GOOD LYE. WHEN it is not desirable to use Potash, hickory Ashes are the best for making Lye, but those made from sound beech, maple, or almost any kind of hard wood, will answer. A common barrel set upon an inclined platform makes a very good leach. A bet- ter way is to make a box or trough in a Y shape, hav- ing its sides terminating in a point, and provided with an orifice at the lower end. The box should be pro- vided with legs, and mounted high enough to allow of a vessel being placed underneath to receive the Lye which runs out of the bottom. This style of leach is much preferable ; for the strength of the Ashes is bet- ter obtained, and the box may bo taken apart and laid away when not in use. First put in the bottom of the leach a few sticks, and spread over them a piece of car- pet or woolen cloth, which is better tlian straw. After 60 a lew indies of Ashes have been put in, add from four to eight qnarts of Lime. As jou fill up with Ashes, moisten and tamp them down well. Tamp the firmest in the centre. It is ditRcult to obtain the full strength of Ashes in a barrel withont removing them after a few days' leaching, v/hen they should bo well mixed up and replaced. First, throw off the top, and add new Ashes to make nj) the proper cpiantity. It is best to use boiling water for the second leaiching. The L3'e nmst be concentrated by boiling till sufficiently strong to float an egg or sound potato. 67.-TO PRESERVE GREASE. THE proper care and treatjucnl o.' IIk- fat or grease is very iniportant, and the vxtwi attention given to this matter will l)e well repaid by tlic superior qual- ity of soap that will result from tiic pui'ified grease. Boil all the scraps, rinds and bones in a weak lye, and tlie purer grease in clear water. After the mixture cools, take off the cake of grease and strain, it. Tt is well to thus occasionally treat the fat as it is saved ; ibr, when kept a long time impure grease liecomes of- fensive. Before consigning it to the grease-tub, care must be taken to dry off all the water, so that the grease will keep sweet. The best way to collect dripping is to put tlie grease while warm into water that is nearly cold. Any impurities it maj rontuin will pink to the bottom. 68.--T0 PREVENT FATTY SUBSTANCES FROM TURNING RANCID. BOIL, for ten minutes, about eight pounds of the fat with three pounds of water, containing half an ounce of common Salt and a quarter of an ounce of powdered Alum. Strain off the water, and then gently simmer the clarified fat with half an ounce of Benzoin and a pint of Rose Water. Skim off the grease and let it cool. Fat thus treated will keep sweet for years. 69.-T0 MAKE SOFT SOAP BY EM- PLOYING POTASH. FOR a barrel of soap, take twelve pounds of Potash to fourteen pounds of grease. Dissolve the Pot- ash over night in two pailfuls of hot soft water. In the morning, ponr it while hot over the grease, which must have been previously rendered down and put in the barrel. Put more water on the Potash that re- mains undissolved, and, when hot, add it to the grease as 68 before, and so continue until all tlie Potash has been dissolved. Fill up the barrel more slowly with cold water, finishing it the next day. It should be stirred very frequently through tlie day, and for several suc- cessive da3^s. Before using, allow it to rest for three months in a cool cellar. This method furnishes a very good quality of soft soap. 70.-TO MAKE LYE SOFT SOAP. TAKE about four gallons of Lye obtained by Method (66) to twelve pounds of clear grease. Boil the grease and lye thoroughly together. Then add more lye as it is obtained, keeping up a slow fire and often stirring, until a barrel of soap is forrijod. Al'ter boiling together the twelve })ounds ot grease and four gallons, of l}'e, tlie mixture may tlien be [nit in the barrel and the rest of tlie lye added tln^i-c. By this cold proeet^s good S(»ap will be ibrnied, il' fre([uently stirred. The heating process, however, is tiie best, if the weather be clear and there \>c ])]enty of time. 71.-C0MCENTRATED LYE. AMTLD, salvy, soft soap, of excellent quality, and one that will be ready for use in a few days, can 69 be qiiicklj made as follows: A prepared Concentrated Lye, put up in pound boxes, may be purchased of any druggist or grocer, at small cost. In some iron vessel, dissolve a pound of tliis Lye in two quarts of soft water, and add four pounds of grease, scraps or rinds. Boil the mixture thoroughly until every bit of fat dis- appears. The longer the boiling is continued, the bet- ter will be the soap. Then put it in a barrel and add soft water, well boiled and scalding hot, until the soap is as strong as desired. Special directions usually ac- company the boxes of Concentrated Lye. 72.-LABOR-SAVING SOAP. AN excellent Soft soap may be made from the wash- ing crystal of Method' (54). Take one quart of the fluid, slice into it three pounds of common yel- low soap, and add two pounds of Salsoda. Boil the mixture in three gallons of soft water, then strain it, and it will be immediately fit for use. Four gallons of soft soap will thus be made, wdiich will prove une- qualed for all jmrj^oses wherein soft soap is needed. The night previous to washing, put the clothes to soak; and to every pailful of water in which they are boiled add a pound of this soap. They will need no rubbing ; merely riiiae them, and they will be perfectly clean and 70 white. This soap may be riglitly styled Labor-Saving Soap. 73.-TURPENTINE SOAP. SLICE up three pounds of brown soap, and melt it in seven quarts of water. Then put it in a stone pot, and add nine tablespoon fuls of Spirits of Turpen- tine and six of Alcohol. In using Turpentine soap, make very liot suds with some of the soap, and soak the clothes in it for half an hour. Then wash them out and rinse as usual. This soap is particularly valu- able for blankets and quilts, as it thoroughly removes the dirt with very little rubbing. 74.-T0 CONVERT SOFT SOAP INTO ■ HARD SOAR PUT four pailfuls of soft soap into a kettle, and, while boiling, stir into it by degrees about a quart of common Salt. Boil until all the water evaporates from the curd, and then draw off tlie water with a siphon, or by tilting the kettle. Pour the paste into a wooden frame, in which muslin, well powdered with a mixture of Lime and Starch, has been placed. Any wooden box large and tight enough will answer, and the muslin slntuld exteiul over the sides of the box, so that the soup ma}' ho easily lifted out. When the soap hceomes iirni lift it out, and when nearly dry cut it into hars with a brass wire, and let it harden. A little powdered llesin assists the soip to harden, and gives it a fine yellov/ color. W the soft soap he very thin, a larger quantity of Salt nnist be used. 75-HARD SOAPS. THE domestic manufacture of hard soaps is attended with no more lal)or or troulde tiiaii is niot in the making of soft soaps. A very fine and pure (juality of hard soap can be nuide, without difficulty, at home. The main difierence between hard and soft soap is in the alkaline base. The alkaline base of hard soap is Caustic Soda; and the more solid the fat used, the firmer will be the resulting soap. 76.-HOME-MADE CAUSTIC SODA. DISSOLVE six pounds of common washing Soda in four gallons of warm water. Next, slake six pounds of clean fresh Lime, using only as much water as is needed to perfectly crumble it. Stir tjie slaked 12 Lime and the Soda solution togetlicr, and add four gal- lons of boiling water. Stir the mixture thoroughly and let it settle. Then pour off the clear lye for use. 77.-DOMESTIC HARD SOAP. PUT the Caustic Soda, prepared in the manner and quantity given in Method (76), into a clean iron ket- tle, and add during continual stirring twelve pounds of clarified fat, dusting in, a little at a time, four ounces of finely powdered Borax. Let the mass gently boil for ten or lil'teen minutes, or until it thickens and be- comes ropy. Then have in readiness a clean, tight box, lined witli a piece of ninslin large enough to c^xt/and well over the sides, to allow of the contents being afterward conveniently lifted out. I'our the mixture from the kettle into the box, and allow it to stand a few days to harden. When sufiiciently hard, turn it out on a ta- ble, and cut it into bars with a brass wire. Soap thus made, and left to harden in a oool, dry place, will be hard enough for use in a month. 78.-CONCENTRATED LYE HARD SOAP. FILL an iron kettle two-thirds full of the concen. trated lye of Method {6G), aivJ add to it melted fat, a ladleful at a time, stirring constantly till the mixture becomes creamy. Tiieii ?idd Salt in small quantities at a time, stirring without intermission, until a perfect ring can be made on the surface with a stick. Then let the lire go out, and the soap will rise to the surface and harden as it cools. Tilt the kettle to draw the lye from under the soap, or else lift out the soap and lay it where it will dry hard enough to cut into bars. 79.-HARD WHITE TALLOW SOAP. THIS is a fine white soap, of excellent quality, and is made as follows : Dissolve two pounds of Sal- soda in one gallon of boiling soft water. Mix with it two jxDunds of fresh slaked Lime, stirring occasionally fbr several hours. Then fet it settle. Pour off the clear li(juid ami add two pounds of Tallow, and boil the mixture till all the Tallow is dissolved. Cool the paste in a flat box, and when sufficiently firm cut into bars or cakes. It may be scented by stirring in the desired perfume as it cools. 80.-CHEAP FAMILY SOAP. A DD to ten quarts of water six pounds of Quick- lime (Shell Lime is best) and six pounds of com- 74 nion v,";ishiti2: Soda. Tut all toi^ellicr, and lot tliom stand nvi'i' night to ('!e;ir. in tlio morning, al'lrr boil- ing !l)(' mixture for half an houi-, draw olf the lye, and add to it one jiound of common Kesin and seven pounds of ahiiost any kind of fit. I>oil the mass for Jialf an hour. Let it stand till cool and cut into bars. This kind of £^oap is largely used in hiundry establish- ments. 81.-MYRTLE SOAP. DISSOLVE two pounds and a quarter of white Potash in five quarts of water, and add to this solution ten pounds of Myrtle Wax. L>oil the whole over a slow tiro till it turns to soap. Now add a tea- cuj)ful of cold water, and l>oil for ten minutes longer. At the end of that time, turn it into moulds or tin pans, and let it dry for a week or ten days before turn- ing it out of the moulds, it may be scented by stir- ring into it, just l)efore turning it into the moulds, any essential oil that has an agreeable perfume. This soa]) is excellent for sliaving and for chapped hands. It is also very good for eruptions on the fiu-e. It will be fit for use in three or four weeks after it is made, but it is better to let it stand nearly a vear before usins". 75 82.-CHEMICAL SOAP. THIS is an admirable soap lor removing grease spots. It is the same soap tliat has often been peddled tlir(_>ughout the country, and the process of manufacturing it claimed to be so wonderful and se- cret. It is easily made, however. Take an ounce of Fuller's Earth, and just moisten it with Sj)irits of Tur- pentine. Then add one ounce each of Salts of Tartar and the Ijcst (piality of Potash. AVork the whole into a paste with a little soap. 83.-0X GALL SOAP. GALL soap, so valuable in washing fine silk goods and ribbons, is prepared in the following manner: Heat a, pouiui of Cocoanut Oil in a coi)per vessel to H()° Fahr., and add to it, during constant stirring, half a pound of Caustic Soda. Heat iti anotlier vessel half a pound of white Venetian Tur])entine, and when (piite hot stir it into the first ncsscI. Then cover this vessel and gently heat it for four liours, after which time increase the fire till tlie contents become ]»erfectly clear. Npxt add a ])ound of Ox Oall, and then stir into tlic inixture a ,^ufti(;ient (piantity of perfectly dry 76 Castile Soap to cause the whole mass to yield but little under the pressure of the tinger. From one to two pounds of Castile Soap would be required for the above quantity of ingredients. AVhen it cools, cut it into cakes. No soap can be manufactured which can excel the deter- gent properties of Ox Gall soap. It will not injure the finest colors. 84-TOILET SOAPS. THE making of toilet soaps is in reality more simple and easier to accomplish than the manufacture of plain soaps. With very little trouble and expense enough toilet i^oap can be made at one time to last a family for years. If the directions be strictly followed, toilet soaps can be made at home vastly superior to the average market article. The chief requisite in making toilet soap is neatness. The liner kinds of scented soaps, having emollient properties, are rarely made di- rect by the perfumer, but have for a base some well se- lected coTumon white soap, which must be cleansed and ])uriried. To be adapted for perfumery, the base should be ])erfcctly neutral, firm and free from all un- pleasant odors. The process employed for refining the body soap is called " Crutching." 77 85.-"CRUTCHING." CUT up the soap which lias been selected for the base as line as meal, which tits it to be readily melted. Mix it with Ilose and Orange Flower Water in the proportion of half a pint of each to twelve pounds of the soap. As it becomes fluid, stir it thor- oughly till the paste becomes uniformly coiisi^tent and smooth throughout. For this purpose, the pei-fumer uses a stick having a cross-piece at one end like an in- verted T, or crutch. Hence the term, " Crutching.'" AfteT the first crutching, allow the paste to cool, and then melt and thoroughly crutch it again, but without using tlie fragrant water. When the paste begins to cool again, add any desired coloring matter, and lastly the perfume, which is reserved to the last to a^■oid any loss by evaporation fi-om the hot paste. When cool, put the paste into frames and allow it to harden fur a day or two. Then cut it with a brass wire into cakes of any desired shape and size. Crutching constitutes the principal treatment in making toilet soaps, and it is now only necessary to give the proportions of ingredients for several superb varieties. 78 86.-H0NEY SOAP. USE lor the Imse live por.iuls of ^^•]lite eiird soap Melt tmd cTutcli it with one jiouiul of white Honey. Then shM three onnees of Stora.x and an ounce and a lialf of )»o\vdered Benzoin. Prepared in the ahove ])roportioii<, it will make a mild and very agreeable r=oap for toilet nt'e. 87.-MUSK SOAP. USE for the base three pounds of the best quality of Tallow soap and two ]K>unds of Palm Oil soap. Alelt and erutdi with ])OwdtM-ed Cloves, Pale Poses and GilliHowers, each iialf an ounce. Peri'unie witli Es sence of Berganiot and Essence of Musk, each half an ounce. Tinge with Spanisli Brown, one ounce. 88.-CELEBRATED WINDSOR SOAP. W flNDSOR soap, so celebrated as a toilet articde, lias for its base fine white curd soa]), five pounds ; Cocoanut Oil soap, one pound. Perfunid with a mix- ture of Attar of Carraway,two ounces; Attars of Thyme 79 and lloseiuary, each h:ilt' an ounce, tind Attar.- of Cas- sia and Cloves, each one-fourth of an ounce. To make the ]>ro\vn Windsor, add a little y(diow soap to the white base, and color Avith Camniel. The White and Brown Windsor are among the tinest toilet soaps that are manufactured. 89-GLYCERINE SOAP. USE for a Lase any mild toilet soap, with which aljout one-twentieth of its weight of Price's Gly- cerine has l)een intimately incorporated while in a melted state. Tinge it of a red or rose color witli a little Tincture of Arcliil or of Dragon's Blood. It is vai'iouslv scented, hut Oil of Berganiot or Hose Gera- nium, supported wir!i a little Oil of Cassia, is its fa- vorite perfume. 90,-ITALlAN HONEY SOAP. CUT into thin slices two pounds of good yellow soap. Place it in a double saucepan and keep water boiling aroun; are presented in this chapter, and they embrace nearly every variety of stains. Many of the chemical agents used in these methods are probably unfamiliar to most persons; but tliis fact should never deter them from employing the methods, whenever they may have an occasion for removing stains from valued articles. They are methods in every-day use, and are the most relia1)h' and jn-actical that can be used. The various chemical-; may be obtained from any druggist. Wherever any precaution should attend the use of them it is fully stated, and, as far as possible, their cliemical action i- explained. It is often difficult to determine whether a stain will come out easily or not. Frequently, what apj^ears to be a stain difficult of removal comes out Ijy the sinqilest method ; vice versa, simple stains often require careful treatment. Of course, the simpler the remedy competent to effect the cure, the better. The following stain methods end)ody not only distinct classes of stains, but methods for general cases are aL o given. AVhen the origin of the stain is obscure, a gen- eral method will be found very useful. Ladies can use their judgment in regard to which method is the most applicable to the particular case they niay have for treatment. If one expedient fails, resort to another. Persevering and repeated application will rarely fail. 92.-STAINS PRODUCED BY VEGETA- BLE JUICES. FRUIT stains, wine stains, and those produced by colored vegetable juices, are often nearly indeli- ble, and require various treatment. They may always be removed, however, if a little perseverance is exer- cised. Among the expedients resorted to, the follow- ing are the most effectual. Always carefully examine the linen, and extract all stains of this class previous to washing ; for the stains are apt to be set so firmly by soap-suds that their removal is rendered exceedingly difficult. 93-FRUIT STAINS IN LINEN. To remove fruit stains in linen, rub each side of the portion stained with yellow soap ; then tie up a piece of Pearl-ash in the cloth and soak it well in hot water, or boil it if the stain be obstinate. Afterward, expose the stained part to the action of the air and sun until the stain disappears. 84 94-WINE STAINS IN LINEN. THIS is a simple and generally a very successful method of extracting wine stains : Hold the stained part of tlie article in milk that is boiling on the stove. Usually this will soon take out the stain, and the process is attended with no injury whatever to the fabric. 95 -SPECIAL AGENTS FOR OBDURATE CASES. OBDURATE fruit and wine stains of almost any variety may be removed by using some one of the folloA\ing ingredients: A weak solution of C-hlorine Chloride of Lime, Spirits of Salts, Oxalic Acid, oi Salts of Lemon, in warm water. Quite iVctiuently, a little Lemon Juice will be sufficient. Each of tho.-;e ingredients should be diluted witli warm witter, and the stained part should ]>e well washed with water only, previous to apjdying them. Let the stained por- tion lie In the sohition about two minutes; after which, the article should be rinsed in warm water, free from soap, and then dried. Stains of tliis (dass may some- 85 times be taken nut by ^lakiii^ the linen in sour But- termilk, and then n it with a. little Sherry. A'"t;^r wa.sliinij;, no trace of the stain will be left. The a;'id which tlie Slierry contains decomposes the salt, and Chlorine (Bleachin^j; (las) is set free, wliich destroys the vegeta- ble coloring matter of the wine. If it is a port wine stain, the Sherry should be likewise added to the salt, as the port also contains acid. 97.-ACID AND TEA STAINS. SPIRITS of Hartshorn, diluted with an equal quan- titj of M'ater, will often remove stains produced by acids, tea, wine or fruits. After the application of the Hartshorn, the article should be well rinsed in cold w;iter. In difficult eases it may be necessary to repeat tlie application several times before the stains are entirely removed. 86 98.-0LD FRUIT AND WINE STAINS. FRUIT and wine stains which have remained for some time, and have become seemingly indelibly Bet, should be subjected to this treatment : Eub each side of the stain with yellow soap, and then apply very thickly a paste of Starch atid cold water. Rub the paste well in, and expose the linen to the action of the sun and air until the stain disappears. As it becomes dry, sprinkle it from time to time with a little water. If not removed in three or four days, rub off the paste and renew the process. A second application rarely fails. 99.-STAINED NAPKINS AND TABLE- CLOTHS. NAPKINS, table-cloths or other white fabrics that are stained with coffee or fruits, previous to being put into soap-suds, should have boiling water turned over them, and be allowed to soak until the water be- comes cold ; then rub out the spots in this water. If they are put into soap-suds with the stains in them, the suds will set the stains so that no subsequent washing will remove them. Table-cloths and napkins will be 87 far Icrs likely to become ptai?u"l if tliey arc alwajg starched a little, as the starch has a tendeucj to pre- vent eutt'eo and juieeti of fruits from penetrating into tlic texture of the eloth. lOO.-PROCESS OF SULPHURATIOR ULPHUROUS Acid Gas is often (>niployed to bleach out stains, and is very cfiectu;i]. It ninj be generated at, the nionienl of iisinir bv l^urninp; a little piece of sulphur under the wide end of a small paper funnel, the npper orifice of which i,- a])plied near the stain, which must be previously moistened with hot water. Coffee and chocolate stains, when every other means fail, nuiy be removed l)y carefully washinij; in very hot water, and then subjectiniz; the spot to sulphura- tion. In the case of slight stains, a lighted sulphur match held uiuler the stain will produce sufficient Sul- pliurous Acid Gas to bleach out the stain. Stains caused by any vegetable acid can generally be removed by sulphuration. Sulpliuric Acid diluted with water, or water acidu- lated with a little Muriatic or Oxalic Acid, is very ef- tectual in removing fruit stains. Care must be taken not to have the acidulated water so strong; as to eat a hole in the cloth. As soon as the stain is out, rinse in Pearl-ash water, and then through fair water. lOl.-TO REMOVE IRON RUST. STAINS of iron rust are frequently quite obstinate and their removal very difficult to accomplish by the direct application of any reagent. If, however, the nature of tlio stain be changed, or a new stain be cre- ated, the now stain, together with tlie iron rust, can be readily removed. First, moisten the part stained, with Ink, and then remove the Ink with Muriatic xVcid diluted witli hve or six times its weight of water. In this treatment it will be found that the old and new Btains have been simultaneously removed. This is a very effectual method, even in the most dithcult cases. 102-INK SPOTS. SPOTS of common or indelible ink may be removed by saturating them with Lemon Juice, and then rubbing on common Salt. Afterward, place tlieni where the hot rays of the sun will shine on them for several hours. As fast as they dry, rub on more Lemon Juice and Salt. When Lemon Juice is not easy to 89 obtain, Citric \c'u\ iiiakr>s a good substitute. Iron rust may soinelimcs be removed iu the same manner. A solution ot Chloride of Lime (3S) is also largely em- ploye 1 in laundries tor removing ink spots. Soaking cotton goods that have common ink s})ilt on them, in lukewarm sour milk, Avill frequently be successful. 103.--DEL1CATE FABRICS STAINED WITH INK OR IRON MOULD. To extract ink or iron mould from delicate linen fabrics, wet the s]>ots with Milk and then cover them with common Salt. Then lay them in the heat of the sun, and wet them occasionally as they dry. Another way to take out ink stain is to dip the spot in melted Tallow. This is the best plan to employ for tine, delicate articles. 104.-ESSENTIAL SALTS OF LEMON. ESSENTIAL Salts of Lemon, so useful in extract- ing ink, iron rust and many otlier stains from linen and cotton, is made as follows: Take one ounce of Oxalic Aciil in powder and mix it with four ounces cf Cream of Tartar. The mixture ought to be pre- 90 served in small round boxes. In using, wet tlie linger with water and dip it in the powder ; then gently rub the spot, keeping it rather moist, and the stain will dis- appear without injury to the lal)rie. This preparation is not the Lemon Essence Ubod in lemonade making, but, if swallowed, is very poiK)nous. Jt should l)e la- beled, poison . 105.-IR0N RUST AND INK STAINS OF LONG STANDING. THE removal of these stains is a matter of some difficulty if they have renuiinel long on the fa- bric. It cfin be done, howevur, l»y ap])lying Oxalic Acid in powder upon the spots, which must be pre- viously moistened with water. yVfter tlie acid has been well rubbed in, it should be thoroughly washed out ; for Oxalic Acid is highly corrosive tf) textile fabrics. Care should always be exercised in employing strong acids; for they are very apt to injure and rot the cloth. 106.-YELL0W SULPHIDE OF AMMONIA. THIS method is free from the objections against the use of strong acids, and will remove stains of long standing almost immediately. Wet the marks ot ink 91 or iron mould with Yellow Sulphide of Ammonia, by which they will bo iiuniediately blackened. Allow it to remain a minute or two for the stains to become well blackened. TluMi, with water, wash out the ex- cess of Ammonia iSulphide, and treat the remaining::; black spot with cold dilute ^Muriatic Acid, whereby it will be immediately removed. Finally, wash well with water. 107,-TO EXTRACT MILDEW. FROM the nature of mildcAr stains, it is obvious that their successful re.imval may 1>c attended with some difHculty. Several methods are here presented. A lady can easily determine which is best ada})ted to any particular case. If one method fails, try another. In removing mildew and many other stains, a great reliance may be placed upon the l)leaching powers of " Old Sol." Rub soap thoroughly on the mildew spots; then scrape some Chalk, and rub that also over the spots. Lay the linen on the grass in the heat of the sun, and its rays will bleach out the spots. As it dries, wet it a little, and the mildew will come out, at the farthest, in the second application. 93 108-STARCH AND SALT METHOD. ANOTllEIl successful way oi" icuioviiig mildew is to mix togetlier soft Soap, i)o\vdered IStiircli, half a^ jnuch Salt as Starch, and the juice of a Lemon, and apply the mixture to the spots with a brush. Let the article lay on the grass day and night until the mildew disappears. This recipe is a good one. 109.-CHLORIDE OF LIME, TAKE two ounces of Chloride of Lime and pour over it a quart of I»oiling water ; tlien add three quarts of cold water. Steej) the mildewed linen in this solution for ;in hour, when every spot will he (ex- tracted. On taking the linen out of the solution, itu- merse it inmiediately in boiling water, and let it soak for fifteen minutes (38). Fruit and wine stains may also be removed in this way. Some grades of linen which have contracted mildew may recpiire rejieated applications for two or three days, rinsing out and bleaching in the sunshine after each application. 110.-OXALIC AND CITRIC ACID SOLUTION. A VERY good solution for extracting mildew may be prepared by mixing together Oxalic Acid, Citric f)3 Acid and Milk. Ptub it well into tlu* spots; repeat hS it dries? ; tliorouglilj wash an*] bleacli on the grass. Quite often niiklew ma}- ho removed l)y simply dipping the stained portion in sour Buttermilk, laying it 'u\ the sunshine, and, as soon as it is white, rinsing in fair water. Ill-STAIN METHOD FOR SUMMER USE. THE juice of green Tomatoes thickly mixed with Salt will remove stains of Narious kinds from white goods. The mixture is applied to the stain, and the article then exposed to tlu^ action of tlu» sun. During the sumuu^r and fall, when articles are most likely to become stained with fruits, cVrc, this will be found a very practical method, as the ingredients can be readily obtained. It can be used ibi- white goods only, as the Tomato Juice will desti-oy coloiv. On ac- count of its simplicity and inability to injure the cloth, it would be advisable to try this method Ix^bre resort- ing to others. .\ great variety (tl" stains, fruit, wine, ink, iron rust, mildew, iVc., e\»n when they aiv (juite obstinate, will yichl to this Ireatnu'iit. I 112.-ACID AND ALKALI STAINS. F the discoloration has been produced by acids, Aqua Ammonia will generally remove it, If it has been 94 produced by Alkaline Substances, moderately strong Vinegar should be a2:)plied. When the article is deli- cate, the Vinegar slionld be discolored by being filtered through powdered ('harcoal. Acid stains on linen may also l)e removed by wetting the part ainJ applying some Salts of WorniM'ood (Carbonate of Potassa). Then rub tiie Salts ol" AVu-iiiwood well into the cloth, with- out diluting it with water. These agents will almost immediately neutraliz3 tlie stains, Ii3.-NITRIC ACID STAINS. WHENEVER nitric acid in any quantity falls on an article, it is apt to burn a hole through the fabric, and, in tJiat case, it would be useless, of course, to try the following method. If the stain be slight and the threads not actually consumed, then the original color may be restored by this method : Apply to the stain a solution of Permanganate of Potassium ; then, while the fabric is moist, expose it to the fumes of burning sulphui- (100), I 114.-M1LK STAINS. N extracting milk stains, they should be first soaked in Benzoin to remove the fatty portion of the milk; and afterward in warm Borax Water, ;ts ^l^'ni^• a.^ it can be made, and containing Potash in the pioportion of half an ounce to a ])int of Borax Water. iSome- times old milk stains ai'c very ditticult to remove, and reqnii-e continued applications. 115.-~PERSP1RATI0N STAINS. THE stains produced by perspiration aie not unfre- quently quite obstinate. The best wny to remove them is to apply a strong solution of Soda. A concen- trated Soda solution seldom fails t<> bleach out the stains. Afterward, the part should be tliorougldy rinsed in warm water, to prevent the Soda from in- juring the fabric. 116.-T0 DISSOLVE OLD BLOOD STAINS. OLD blood stains that have become set may be dis- solved out of the cloth l»y this treatment : Apply to the stains a solution of Iodide of Potassa in four times its -weight of water. The Iodide of Potassa should be then washed out with warm water, and it will be found that the blood stains have entirely disap- peared. 96 117.-T0 REMOVE STAINS OF IODINE. \7AKI0US preparations of Iodine are laroelj em- plojetl for medicinal applications, and their use is always dreaded on account of the bad stains tliey leave Stains of Iodine may be removed by rectified Spirits; or, what is still better, any Tincture of Iodine may be prevented from leaving a stain after it is used. Add a few drops of litpiid Carbolic Acid to the Iodine Tinc- ture, and the latter v.iU leave no stain. A ixood medi- cal authority reconnuends Carbolic Acid as renderino- the efficacy of Tincture of Iodine more certain. i18.-ANlLlNE RED (MAGENTA). STAINS of aniliiic red may be readily extracted by the application of Cyanide of Potassa. Simply soak the stained portion of the article for a few min- utes in a weak solution of Cyanide of Potassa, which will neutralize the stain. The article should be well rinsed immediately after the application. This is a niBver-failing method. '119.-S00T STAINS. STAINS caused by soot, or contracted while hand. ling stove-pipes, are usually not difficult to extract. 97 In case,:^ Avliere simple meuus I'ail, the following method may he sueeessfully employed : First, wash the spot witli Sulpliuric Acid dihitel with water, and tlieii rinse in eleui- w at<'i-. Cai-e mnst he taken to sutiieientlj di- lute the Siilj.liuric Aeid, or else; it may injure the cloth, 120.-TAR, PITCH, RESIN, PAINT, ETC. Tins metho.l includes all eases where the staining suhstanee i> of a resinous eharaeter : Pour on the spots a little Alcohol, and let it soak in abo\it half an hour. Then ruh it gently, and it will be found that the Alcohol has dissolved out the glutinous quality, so that the residue will easily crumble out. Chloroform, also, is an exeelh-nt medium to v<'move paint stains from articles. Portions of dry white paint that have resisted the action of Alcohol, Ether, or Penzoin, are at once removed by Chloroform. Tuipentine or Alco- hol wdll answer very well when the stains are fresh. 121.-YELL0W CLAY STAINS. WHENEA^EP red shale and certain varieties of clay come in contact with wliite goods, they leave conspicuous i-cd or yellow stains. In wet weather, the bottom of white JJrt.- are es])eeially liable to be- 98 come discolored with shale or clay mud. Yery often stains of tliis kind cannot be washed out with soap and water, witliout rubbing tlie article nearly to shreds. The best and speediest way of removing such stains is to pass the skirt or discolored article througli the Laundi-y " Bleacli " (38). Tliis process will entirely obliterate every trace of the stain, and at the same time give tlie article a beautiful whiteness. 122-GREASE SPOTS. SCOURING drops, which will remove spots of grease from linen or any other material, may be made by mixing together Spirits of Turpentine and Essence of Lemon, of each one ounce. The Essence must be newly made, or it will leave a circle around the spot. This metliod is applicable not only to linen and cotton, but is also excellent for extracting grease from silks, woolens, or goods of any material. 123-NON-METALLIC STAINS. THIS method possesses general powers, and will remove nearly all stains which are not metallic. Mix two tablespoonfiils of water with one of Spirits of 99 Salts (Muriatic Acid) Let tlic stained part lie in tliis mixture for one or two minutes, and then rinse in cold water. Tliis treatment will be found particularly use- ful in renmvin'j^ staiu^ from v.'hito napkins and table- cloths. 124.-SC0URING BALLS FOR GENERAL USE. IN order to remove a stain the cause or origin of which is doubtful, a composition is requisite which possesses various powers. Egg scouring balls, the for- muha for preparing which is given below, are excellent for such a purpose ; Dissolve a quarter of a pound of white Soap in a glassful of Alcohol, and beat mto this the Yolks ot four or five Eggs. Add, gradually, a lit- tle Spirits of Hartshorn, and then incorporate with the mixture sufficient Fuller's Earth to convert the whole into solid balls. Prepared in this manner, the balls will be always convenient for use. In removing the stain, wet the stained part with soft water, and then rub it with a ball of the above composition, which should be well worked into the cloth. Then thoroughly wash out the composition. Egg scouring balls will re- move almost any stain except ink spots and stains caused by various solutions of iron. 100 125.-STAIN MIXTURES. SOME laundry establishments ahvdjs keep on hand stain mixtures for general use. Such mixtures are very valuable in eases where the nature of the stain is not understood. Also, for stains for which there is no special method ; or, when a method whicli seems to be particularly adapted to certain cases fails to remove the stain, then a general stain mixture can be advan- tageously employed. Two of the best stain mixtures for general use are given beU^\\- : Mixture No. 1. — Dissolve half an ounce of Sorrel in half a pint of water, and add two ounces of Spirits of Wine. Shake them all \\v]\ toiictlicr Ajiplv the mixture to the stain with a s|)oip_':('. Mixture No. 2. — Mix together an ounce each of Sal Ammonia and Salts of Tartar, and add one pint of soft water. 126-TO RESTORE SCORCHED LINEN. ALTH(3UGII appearing an iii!i)ossibility, yt-t even where articles are badly scorched, the color can be restored. The composition used for tins purpose will doubtless seem to be prepared from singular mgre- 101 clients; but experience lias |irovc(! that it will successfullj accomplish the desired re>ult. It is liardlj necessary to state that it is needless to apply the composition it' tlie texture oi" the linen is so much Inirnt that no strength is left. Nothing, in that case, could ])revent a hole from being formed, although the composition by no means tends to injure the fabric. If. however, the scorching is not quite through and the threads not ac- tually consumed, then the application of the composi- tion, followed by two or three good washings, will re- store the linen to its original color. The marks of the scorching will be totally effaced, and the place will eeem as white and perfect as an}' other part of the linen. ^lix well together two ounces of Fuller's Earlh I'efluced to powder, one ounce of Ih'rd Guano, half an ounce of cake Soap finely scraped, ami the juice of two large onitms. The onions should be sliced, beaten in a mortar, and ]>res:-ed. Hoil this mass in half a pint of strong Viufgar, ;-tin-ing it from time to time, till it forms a thick l!(|uid (•om]»ound. Spread this composition thickly over the scorched part, and let it renuiin for twenty-four hours. If the scorching was light, one application, with the assistance of two subsequent washings, will be sufficient to restore the whiteness. If, however, the scorching was strong, a second coating should be jriven after the removal of the first, and this likewise allowed to remain for lo2 twenty-four liours. Al'ier the linen has been washed two or tiiree times, an J the scorciiing is still visible, apply the composition again, and a complete cnre will seldom fail to be effected. It rarely ever happens that a third application is necessary. The remainder of the composition may be kept for future use by preserving it in a gallipot, covered and tied over with bladder. CHAPTER VI. 127.-CARE OF LINEN. IT is an excellent plan and consistent with economy, to carefully examine and repair all articles which re- quire it, previous to consigning them to the laundry. Much after work is often thus saved. It is also prudent to number articles, and so arrange them after they are washed, that they may have their regular turn and term in domestic use. When linen is well dried, aired, and laid away for use, nothing further is necessary, ex- cept to secure it from damp and insects. 128.-AR0MATIC HERBS. AN agreeable way to protect linen from insects, is to intersperse among the drawers and shelves a judicious mixture of aromatic shrubs and flowers, cut up and sewed in silken bags. The mixture may con- 104 siBt of Lavender, Thyme, Roses, Cedar ^^havings, pow- dered Sassafras, Cassiii, Ligiiia, iS:r., to which may be added a few drops of Attar of Koses, or other strong scented perfume. 129.-LAVENDER SCENT BAG. THE drawers and linen may be nicely perfumed, by a Lavender Scent Bag, which cnn he made as fol- lows: Tal<(! half a pound of Lavender Flowers^, free from stalk-; half an ounce each of dried Thyme and Mint, a (juarter of an ounce each ol ground Cloves and Carraway, and one ounce of common Salt, dried. Mix the whole well together, and sew up the product in silk or cambric bags. 130.-T0 KEEP AWAY MOTHS, BEETLES, ETC. SEAV up a piece of Camphor in a linen bag, and place a few of these bags in tlie drawers, among the lin- en and woolen goods, an-l neither motli nor worm will come near them. Brimstone, in rolls, put away with articles, M-ill prevent moths, and no odor is imparted to the clothes. 105 131.-AN AGREEABLE PERFUME. A VERY pleasant perfunie, and also a preventive against moths, may 1)e made of the following ingre- dients: Take one ounce each, of Cloves, Carraway Seeds, Nutmeg, Mace, Cinnamon, and Tonquin Beans^ and then add as much Florentine Orris Root as will equal the other ingredients put together. Grind the whole well together, and then sew it in little bags, and place them among the clothes, 132.-A DELICATE PERFUME FOR KID GLOVES. THE following, is an excellent perfume for kid gloves, ribbons, laces, tfec. Take one drachm each of Ambergris and Civet, and add a quarter of an ounce of Flour-Butter. Mix them all well together. Rub the gloves over gently with the perfume, applying it with fine cotton wool, and press the perfume into them 133-LAYING AWAY SUMMER GOODS. I T is customary with many ladies, to wash, starch and iron summer clothing when laying it away for the 106 winter. Tlie goods are laundried just as if they were to be worn in a day or two. This is very bad policy; for starched articles, when laid away for months, with- out use, are extremely liable to turn yellow and mildew. In such cases, the best way is to simply "rough-dry" them, that is, wash and strongly blue them, but do not starch or ev'en iron them, and roll them up for laying away, instead of folding. Lace curtains, and all deli- cate summer goods, when laid away "rough-dried," will be found uninjured when wanted again. 134.-INDELIBLE INK. IT is obvious, that in a well regulated family, every article should be marked with the owner's name or initial, and carefully numbered. Trouble is often had in obtainiuLj a c;ood indelible ink for marking clothes. Many marking inks, although black when first applied to the linen, become gradually washed out, and a yellow- ish stain only remains. A good indelible ink should have the following properties: It sliould flow freely from the pen, without running or blotting. It should not require very strong or long-continued heat to develop the required hue. ]\[erely passing a hot iron over the marks, or by liolding the cloth to the fire, should bring out a perfectly black mark. 107 It should not injure tlic texture of the finest fabric. A recipe is given below for an indelible ink, from the formula of Jules Guiller, a celebrated chemist. This ink can be easily made, and answers all the above requisites. 135.-FORMULA FOR MAKING INDELI- BLE INK NITRATE of Silver, - - - 5 drachms, Distilled water, ... 12 " Powdered Gum- Arabic, - - 5 " Carbonate of Soda, - - - 7 " Ammonia, - - - - - 10 " Dissolve the Carbonate of Soda in the Distilled "Water, and diffuse through the solution the pow- dered Gum-Arabic. Distolve the Nitrate of Silver in the Ammonia, and commingle this with the other so- lution. Next, warm the mixed fluids in a flask, by which they become at first grayish black and partly coagulated, subsequently brown and clear ; then, when ebullition begins, very dark, and of such a consistency that the ink flows readily from a pen. No precipitate forms in this ink; and by boiling, its color becomes darker. Prepared in the above manner, it produces very black marks upon linen. It can be used with a 108 clean steel pen, and is also very suitable for marking with stamps or stencil plates. 136.-SURE METHOD OF DISINFECTING. A KNOWLEDGE of some simple and effectual ]nethod for disinfecting wearing apparel, bed clothes, or otlier fabrics, which have become infected with contagious matter, is not un frequently of great importance. Where not only the dreaded small-pox and yellow fever, but even the jiiorc connnon con- tagious disease?, scarlatina., measels, typlius and malarial fevers prevail, articles in the si(d< ron:)! ;nid about the person of the patient quickly, become infected with tho poison and readily spread the disease. In all such cases disinfection should be thorough before the articles are put to further use; and the knowledge of the best jiieth- od for accomplishing this purpose will be of great value. The precaution may prevent the sickness or death of loved ones. During the terrible yellow fever epidemic of'TS, when the merciless scourge swe}»t over the sunny South, nearly depopulating the beautiful valley of the Mississippi, it became the duty of the Post Office and Treasury Departments at AVashington, to adopt the surest method possible for disinfecting mail matter. 109 money packages, and all articles coining from the in- fected cities. The protection of the government clerks, npon whom devolved the handling of snch matter, de- manded that the method shonld be absolutely certain. After elaborate experiments, the disinfectjug agent selected was Gasoline. It was found tliat when letter.-., money packages, or packages of linci, cotton, woulen, or silk goods were saturated with (lasoline, the liqnid evaporated almost immediately, leaving the article thoroughly disinfected, and without the slightest injury to the color or texture of the finest fabric. This was an important discovery, as Gasoline is undoubtedly the surest and best disinfectant for such a purpose. In all" eases where it is necessary to disinfect articles impreg- nated with contagious poison, immerse them in Gas- oline; or, where immersion is impracticable, sponge the surface M'ith GJasoline. hi less than live minutes, tlie liquid will evaporate, leaving not the slightest trace of its presence, and the disinfection v/ill be etTectual. 137,-TO RENDER GARMENTS FIRE- 'y PROOF. TO render garments fire-proof is a very simple oper- ation, and, in certain cases, a knowledge of the process may be of advantage. A solution containing no five per cent, of Pliospliate of Ammonia will render dress goods, into which it i:^ rubbed, perfectly fire-roof. Tho]-oughly saturate the goods with tlie solution, and dry them away from the fire. Even if gunpowder is exploded yn goods thus treated, they will only char, not blaze. CHAPTER VIL ISa-IMPROVED METHOD OF CUTTING AND MAKING SHIRTS. PERHAPS a treatise on shirt manufacture may ap- pear to be beyond the limits of a Laundry Guide ; yet tlie art of neatly laundr^'ing and glossing sliirts has been presented so explicitly that it seems a pity to bestow such labor upon an illy-fitting garment. However beautifully done up a shirt may be, the etfect is vastly impaired if an accurate fit be not possessed. How often on Sabbath mornings, while the clean linen is being donned, is the serenity of the day broken and the wife or mother made uncomfortable by impatient fault-findings. Every lady, the happy possessor of a husband or son particular and difficult to please, is fa- miliar with such a scene. An uncomfortable fittina; shirt is, in truth, perfectly abominable to the wearer ; and gentlemen are so proverbially foult-finding in this 112 rcppcct tliat we present to ladies tliis chapter on Im- proved Shirt Cutting and Making, witli tlie confidence that it will be Ingldy a(.-ceptab]e. it is well understood that both tlie quality and dura- bility of the shirt of home manufacture are far supe- rior to those ol' (iistoin make, and it is no more labor to have the home-made shirt of a correct tit than of an imperfect one. The troultle of cutting is the same, and no more stitches need be taken. Noi- is thei-e any par- ticular skill demanded in acquiring this ai't, so little understood, of neatly fitting a sliirt : all that is needed is some plan whereby exact measurements may be taken ami applied, in consequence of wliich the fit of the sliirt will be accurate. Former charts and designs for cutting shirt patterns have been so vague and dilii- cult to coiuprehend that the}' are of little value. They perplex rather than aid the maker. The method here presented was taught us by a professional shirt-maker, one who has the reputation of making a sliirt fit as neatly as a glove. This method is so natural and easy to understand, and, withal, so reliable, that any lady, who never in her life made a shirt, can, b}' its aid, readily cut and make one, either for the smallest boy or the largest man, that Avill set admirably. Surely, the satisfaction and pleasure which such a shirt affords, both to the wearer and maker, is of no small en- joyment. lis 139.-SELECTI0N OF MATERIAL. IT will idwayd be found the most economical in the long run to procure the best brand of muslin out of whicli to make the shirt. Every one, of course, has tlieir preference. Very thick, heavy muslin, however, althougli it may be of excellent quality, is not the best for this purpose. It is hard to wash and iron, and in wearing is apt to crack and bi-eal:. Some fine brand of light v/eiglit is preferable, and the sliirt made of such quality of muslin will last much longer. 140.-SHRINKING THE MUSLIN. BEFORE cutting the material, it should always be shrunk. This can be well done by washing the muslin in warm soap-suds, and then hanging it in a position wliere the hot rays of tlie sun will quickly dry it. This process will prevent many familiar complaints of shirts becoming too small, or of the linen in the bosom and cuffs getting looser than the lining, faults so common in the shirts of manufactories. lU 141.-C0MM0N FAULTS IN THE FIT OF A SHIRT. THE principal parts of a shirt are, the body, yoke, sleeves, and the bosom ; besides these, there are several minor parts — collar, cufTs, bands, gussets, and tongue. By observing the wrinkles which form in a shirt during a day's wear, faults in its fit may be readily ascertained. The most common are, that it is not cut out enough in the neck, is too long on the shoulder, and across the chest is too broad. The first of these faults causes the bosom to bulge. By the two latter, wrinkles and creases are formed around the arms. These faults may be easily guarded against, if the proper measurements be taken. 142.~SEVEN MEASUREMENTS. \ GOOD fitting shirt requires seven measurements, i 1 :^nd these measurements cannot be taken with too great accuracy. They are as follows: First. —The length of the garment. This measure- ment is taken from the nape of the neck downward,' and may be longer or shorter at will, preference vary- ing' in regard to the length of the shirt. 115 Second. — Tlie breadth of the chest from one arm to the other. I'hi.rd. — The length of the bo.^om. For this, two measurements are required. The hrst, directly in front, from the base of the neck to t'ae waist. The second, from the top of the shoulder, where it joins the neck, to a corresponding point of the waisr. Fourth. — The length of the shoulder. This is taken from tiie point where the shoulder joins the neck to the tip or extremity of the shoulder. Fifth. — The size around the neck. This should be taken in the smallest part of the neck, allowing one incli over the measurement. Mark this in full, and also mark one-third of it. Sixth. — The length of the sleeve. Measure down the inside of the arm, and allow two inches more for the length on the outside. Seventh. — The size of the wrist, taken loosely. 143.-DIMENSI0NS OF A SHIRT OF MEDIUM SIZE. NOW, in order to give these measurements more clearness, the dimensions of a medium-size shirt will be assumed. Suppose the length of the prospec- tive shirt to be a yard and an eighth ; the length of the 118 sleeve five-eighths of a yard, and three-eighths suffi- cient for 3'oke, bands, &e. Three and a fourth yards of material, seven-eighths in width, will accordingly be required. From this quantity cut off what is to be used for sleeves, yoke, &c., and there is left for the body two and a fourth yards, twice the assumed length, since the shirt is made of two breadths. Double the two and a fourth yards in the width, and cut apart — one breadth beins; for the back, the other for the front. 144.-THE MODERN SHIRT-FRONT BREADTH. THE front breadth of the modern-styled shirt, hav- ing a shield-shape bosom, is now prepared as fol- lows : Fold the muslin in the length, having the edges at t!io lop and bottom exactly even. First, take the sec- ond uioasureinent (li2), which is from one arm to the other across the chest, or from A to B, Plate F The more exactness with which tliis measurement is taken, the neater the front of the shirt will fit. This is one of the most important points. Having the muslin folded, only one-half of the measurement across the chest is needed. Mark this, and let it remain until the third measurement is taken, which, as before stated, consists of two — tlic first, directlv in front, from the 117 PLATE I. M0DER2S' SHIRT — FRONT BREADTH. 118 base of the neck, C, to the waist, D ; tlie second, from the shoulder at the neck, E, to a corresponding point, F, of the waist, Now, hollow from the base of the neck. C, to the shoulder, E. Bj hollowing in this manner, a sure lit at the neck will be gained, and the bosom can never bulge or wrinkle. 145-SHOULDER MEASUREMENT. NEXT, obtain the shoulder measurement. Measure from tlie point, E, Plate I, where tlie shoulder joins the neck, to the tip of tlie slionlder, G. This should be carefully taken ; for no shirt will set well if it be too long on the shoulder. Kow, cut the armhole from the tip of the shoulder, G, to the point, B, of the chest measure, by hollowing gradually until cut in to the point, B. As this is but half of the front of the armhole, hollow the other half outward until tlie joint, H, under the arm, is reached, two inches fi.rthei- out than the point, B. Shape the body of the sliin by hollowing it as represented in Plate I. The front breadth of the shirt is now cut, and is ready lor the bosom. T 146.-THE SHIELD EOSOM. HE bosom may be home-made or bought ready-- made, at will, and may be of any style of plaits 119 fancied. It should always be lined with heavy white drilling, or, if muslin be used, with three folds. The drilling, however, is always the best. Tlie bosom should be set on over the muslin of the shirt, leaving the muslin for an extra lining- Too great paiiii- cannot be taken to have the bosom well lined ; for it protects the linen from cracking or breaking, the linen can be starched stiffer, and a liner gloss may be imparted. Care must also be taken to set the bosom on straight. This object is easily attained by creasing the bosom length- wise in the centre, likewise the front of the shirt, and then basting in the bosom, placing crease to crease. The bosom should be stitched on with a double row of stitching, about half an inch apart. It is customary to attach to the base of the bosom, in the centre, a pointed bit of cloth, double — the tongue, K, Plate I — which h provided with a buttonhole, corresponding to the but- ton in the waistband of the drawers, ar\d is designed to keep the shirt bosom well in its place when worn. Stitch a small band on the edge of the bosom to con- ceal the edge. Finish the bottom of the breadth with a small hem, and then three small eyelets worked in the bosom completes the front breadth. 130 PLATE II. BACK BEEADTH. 131 147.-BACK BREADTH-PLATE II. THE back breadth will now bo considered. Fold this breadth lenthwise in the centre, and cut the back opening, A to B, about eight or ten inches in length. To prevent the shirt from gaping at the back, lay a wide hem on the left side. In this hem the but- tonholes are worked. Face the other side of the open- ing with a strip of muslin about an inch wide, and sew the buttons on this facing, which is much better than a hem for firmly holding the buttons. Lay the hem over upon the facing, and fasten them together, M'ith a double row of stitching, at the bottom. Previous to shaping the armholes of the back, it is always best to sew on the yoke. Gather the back on each side. Lay the gathers neatly, making the gath- ered spaces correspond on each side, and fasten with thread. The back breadth is now ready for the yoke. 148.-THE YOKE. THE yoke is cut as in Plate III, which represents one-half of it, laying as it should be cut upon the material. For an exact fit of the yoke, take its mea&- 133 nremcnt nnroc-, t-;c hnr-k from one shoulder to the B A other, from C to D, Plate II. Oiiij one-hiili" of thid incabureinent is rc(|uired, us the joke is cut in four pieces, two pieces being for the lining. Make the shoulder of the yoke, A— ■ B, Plato III, the same length as the shoulder of the front breadth (14.5). In depth, the joke may be of any length desired. Hollow the neck a little from A to C. Cut in this manner, the yoke will have an excellent fit. PLATE III. HALF OF YOKE. 149.-J0INING THE BREADTHS. ^"OW sew the shoulder of the two breadths together, M and hollow the armholes of the back to corre- spond with those of the front. The armholcs of the back, however, need not be hollowed so deep as those of the front ; ibr the fit of the shirt is not at all aflected whether the back be cut narrow or wide. Shape tlie body of the back under the arms as represented in Plate II. Finish the yoke with buttons and bntton- holes. Now seam up the sides, leaving them open 133 about four inches at the bottom. It will be found useful to put in small gussets at the points where the side seams begin to be open. 150.-NECK BAND. AS the neck has been already cut out, ascertain if it be correct by applying the neck measurement, which was taken the exact size of the neck in the smallest part, and an inch over the measurement al- lowed. The neck is now finished with the binding, made to be about an inch wide, and upon which are sewed the buttons to hold the collar in place. After being doubled, the binding should be hollowed in front to a half-inch, the hollow beginning at a point corre- sponding to the point where the liollowed part of the bosom begins. Run the cut parts in a small seam on the wrong side, turn the band on the right side and stitch it on the upper edge. After this has been done, the band is basted on the shirt and stitched. The body of the shirt is now finished. In taking the fore- going measurements and applying them, the Plates representing each piece will be found of great as- sistance. 151.-SLEEVES. THE sleeves are cut in the manner following : Lay upon the lap-board or work-table the five-eighths 124 D E F PLATE IV. FOLDING OF SLEEVE. Q A PLATE V. FOLDING OF SLEEVE. 135 of a yard of material reserved for this purpose, and fold over eaeh side to meet in the centre, the material being folded in such a hianner that the cut edges \vill be represented by the letters A, Bj C and D, E, F, Plate TV, and the selvages meet in the line 13, E. The two sleeves, each five-eighths in length and onc-liulf or' the width of the material in Ijreadth, are now lying upon the work-table, but not cut apart, and the first care is to unite them still more by basting togetlier the two selvages and securing that seam well in its place, as represented in Plate IV, by pins at the top and bottom. Tlius prepared, fold it diagomilly, as repre- sented in Plate V, the selvages meeting from the point, B, downward. Cut from G to H, and sew together each portion of the basted selvages. The sleeves, each with its gore, are now ready. Before being sewed up, however, they should be gathered at the lower edge, and about an inch left plain at each end near the open- ing. This opening at the bottom of the sleeve should be about three inches in length. Face its upper side with a strip of muslin about an inch wide, pointed at the top and stitched on both sides. Face the otlier side in a like manner. The sleeve will thus have a nice finish. 152.-CUFFS. NEXT in order are the culfs. The measurement of the wrist is taken loosely, and the cuff is cut 126 about four inches in depth, and i-on:i.lo 1 at the corners. It should be composed ol" linen and lined with two folds of heavy white drilling (1-16). Seam the linen and lining together on the wrong side; then turn on the rightj and finisli around the edge witii two rows of stitchins;. Baste the cuif on the sleeve, sewing the gathers down on the inside and basting the linen on the top, and the wliole will then be ready for stitching. 153.-INSERTING THE SLEEVES. THE bottom of the sleeve being thus finished, sew- up the sleeve and prepare the top. Usually the top of the sleeve should be about the same size as the armliole into which it is to be fitted. It may be larger, and then gathered a little on the top, which plan is preferred by some. On no account, however, should it be smaller. In basting in the sleeve, place its seam upon the seam of the shirt, bringing the gore on the back. Stitch the sleeve in plate VI with a wide hem, and stitch it down sleeve finished. a second time. If the sleeve be too short, a facing 12 around tlie armholc may be made. The cuffs are pro- vided with buttons and buttonholes, and also with but- loles for the sleeve- tons. The shirt of modern le is now complete. 154-SHIRTS OPENING IN FRONT. ALTHOUGH the modern shirt with shield-shape bosom, will wear a much longer time without be- coming wrinkled, and is far easier to iron and gloss, it is not liked, however, by some gentlemen. Elderly gentlemen, especially, and working men, prefer the old style, with the bosom opening in front. For such, de- signs are also given. The plan of cutting and making a workino; shirt, the bosom of which is usually made of the same jnaterial as the rest of the shirt, will be first considered, as the same plan, with slight varia- tions, is applicable to the fine shirt of an elderly gen- tleman, the cutting and making of whicli can be after- ward more readily explained. In the description of both these styles of shirts, many of the details of shirt- 128 making are omitted, for the reason that they have been so fully presented in the oonsideration of the modern shirt that repetition is useless. In all cases of perplex- ity, therefore, a lady is referred to tlie first part of the present chapter. Only the points of diflference are given in the styles following. 155.-W0RKING SHIRT. AVV ORKING shirt may be made of either coarse or fine material, and the measurements required are the same as those for the modern shirt (l-i2). Double the material and cut the two breadths apart. First, prepare the front breadth by beginning with the bosom. For this purpose, cut a slit, A B, Plate YIII, down directly in the middle, beginning at the top of the breadth and making the slit the length indicated by the second measurement of the bosom (142). From the bottom of the slit, then cut across on each side the transverse slits, B C and B D, leaving uncut on the outside a space of six or eight inches. The edges of the slit, A B, are now to be turned down and hemmed, the hem being about an inch in width. On the hem of the right side the buttons Mill later be sewed, Mhile in that of the left, E, which is to be stitched as indi- cated by the dotted lines, the buttonholes will be worked. Then make two or three plaits at each side 139 PLATE VIIL FRONT BREADTH. 130 of the hem, and hold them in their place by basting threads at the top and bottom. The plaits are repre- sented in Plate VIII by the letters F and G on the left side, the right half being left in course of preparation in order that the explanation may be clearer. After the plaits are thus prepared on both sides, lay the hems evenly one over the other, and secure them in this position, with pins or with stitches at the top and bottom, until the neck has been hollowed out. This last cannot be done until the back and front breadths have been joined together. Now, gather the lower edge of the transverse slit, C D, laying and fastening the gathers so as to make the gathered space of the same length as the breadth of the shirt bosom. Two little strips about an inch wide are next prepared to cover the gathering. Turn over the edges of each strip, and baste one strip upon the outside of the shirt, half upon the bosom and half upon the gathering. Secure this band in its place by a row of stitches across each edge. The other strip is then basted on the wrong side of the shirt in a corresponding position, and hemmed down all around. The lower edge of the breadth is finished with a narroM' hem. T 156.-BACK BREADTH. ^HE back breadth is next prepared. First, gather the upper edge, A to B, Plate IX, straight across, 181 PLATE IX. BACK BREADTH. 138 leaving six or eight inches plain on each side. Then lay the gathers and fasten them, making the gathered space to correspond with the width of the shirt bosom. Hem the lower edge of the breadth to match tlie front. !Now, prepare the yoke. 157-THE YOKE. THE yoke of the working shirt is put on above the gathers at the back, and is cut by the same meas- urement and on the same plan as the yoke of the modern shirt. In Plate III (148), half of the yoke is represented laying upon the material as it should be cut. For this yoke four pieces just alike are required, and tliey should be seamed in the centre. The yoke, however, is much preferable made whole. In that case, double the material before cutting, and thus the seam in the centre will be avoided. Baste the yoke upon the gathers, and stitch them together. 158-JOINING THE BREADTHS. THE two breadths of the shirt are now ready to be joined together, which is done by basting the shoulder of the yoke, from the neck to the shoulder 133 tip, upon similar parts of the front. After shaping the body of the breadths as represented in Phites VIII and IX, fell up under the arms, leaving an opening at the bottom about four inches in length. A\ hen the two breadths of the shirt are thus joined together, hollow the garment out in the neck from I, the bate of the neck, to H, Plate VIII, the point where tlie shoulder joins the neek — the points I and IT being given by the two measurements of the bosom (142), The neck is now ready for the binding, as it has already been cut out m the back. Finish the band with buttons and buttonholes. Prepare the sleeves as in (151), and the working shirt will be completed. 15a-ELDERLY GENTLEMAN'S SHIRT. IN the working shirt, the garment has been consid- _ ered made of the same material tliroughont. but in the case of fin.e shirts opening in froiit. the bosom and cuffs are usually made of linen or percale, whichever may be fancied. With, the exception of variations in inserting the bosom, the elderly gentleman's shirt is cut and made, in all respects, similar to the working shirt. The bosom is inserted as follows : H 160.-THE BOSOM, AVING cut the required length, A to B, Plate YIII, remove the whole portion, H, 0, D, Kj 134 whicli, in the working shirt, was made into plaits, and use instead a lengtli of linen or percale equal to the length cut away. Iletain the whole breadth of the linen to use, if needed, in forming the plaits. Thit^ breadth, divided in the centre, gives the two halves cf the bosom. The hems and plaits are formed in a man- ner similar to those of the working shirt, and the two halves are then stitched in tlioir proper places, the stitching beginning at jtlie top at each side. It is more desirable to line the bosom, as any bosom will always last longer, better retain the starch, and is susceptible of a finer gloss, if well lined. In the case of lining the bosoir, cut the fqont breadth similar to the Iront of the working shirt (155). Cut the front down in the centre the same length as the bosom ; baste on the bosom, letting the muslin of the shirt serve us an ex- tra lining, and then stitch the bosom on v>ith a double row of stitching. The under lining may be left loose or caught to the plaits, at will. Finish the shirt in the same manner as the working shirt. 161.-T0 STRENGTHEN THE BOSOM. TO strengthen the bosom in the part i:;ott likely to wear, it is a good plan to put a false liem under- neath the left hand hem, and in this false hem to work 135 the buttonholes. It must, of course, be a little nar- rower, so as to be entirely out of sight when the gar- ment is worn. If preferred, the hem of the shirt itself may be a little narrower and receive the buttonholes. A strip of muslin stitched on the outside wholly con- ceals it, and represents the hem. In either case, any repairs of the buttonholes are concealed, or the whole strip may be removed with but little trouble. 162.-COLLARS. FOR further instruction in the art of shirt-makings the construction of the collar will now be ex^ plained. Originally, the collar was a part of the bhirt itself; but, of late years, it has assumed an indepen dent existence. It would appear, judging from the ever-increasing variety of new names applied to this article, that the varieties of collars must be endless. All may be reduced, however, to tliree original types, the many varieties being simply differences of height, or of the contour of the edge. These three styles are : the standing collar, the turn-down collar, and the col- lar divided in the back. 13G PLATE X. BTANbiNO COLLAR?. PLATE XI. TCEN-DOWN COLLAR. 137 163.-C0NSTRUCTI0N OF COLLARS. ALL collars should be made Ibtir-ply, as, by this means, they retain stilTneos mnch longer, and can be more elegantly laundried. In all of the many va- rieties, a binding is required, which should be cut a lit- tle longer than the neck band of the shirt, and be pro- vided with buttonholes corresponding to the buttons on the neck band. For this binding, prepare two strips about an inch wide, and cut them sloping towards the extremities. The collar proper should also be hollowed out a little, as represented in Plates X and XI, some- what more for a turn-down than for a standing collar. The collar divided in the back is cut in four pieces, and put together so that one-half overlaps the other. Cuffs of every size and shape are also mad^ separate from the shirt. In tliis case the wrist band should be made two inches wide, and the cuffs should be provided with buttonholes for the sleeve-buttons, and with addi- tional buttonholes by which to attach them to the buttons of the wrist band. ' — ^ ^ -^-r— t^JJ^^p^'^— ^-^ THE CHEMICAL LAUNDRY GUIDE, I*^%^I^a^ II. )?jrQj^"^ CHAPTER VIIL t64.-PRINTED GOODS OF DELICATE COLORS. No dress is more becoming to a lady than the bright and glossy print or percale, when it is new. The soft shades and delicate colors are charming. In how fchort a time, however, is the lustre gone and the dress faded and dingy through careless washing The methods by which the gloss and blight colors of any materinl may l)e preserved arc; ca?y to follow. To be sure, more time and atten- tion will be required than the usual sliglit that is given this class of goods, but the result will more than com- pensate for the extra labor. As well might a lady hope for "good luck" with a cocoauut cake baked in the unwashed pan in which onions have been cooked, as to expect delicate prints to look nice washed in the dirty water through which the general washing has passed. 140 The best way is not to do np articles of delicate color on the day of the general washing, but to give them a morning by themselves. Undertake them only in clear, bright weather. The methods presented in this chapter are applicable to colored goods of various materials^ — percales, piques, chintzes, cambrics, nierinoes, prints, lamas, mousse-de- laines, ginghams, lawns, printed muslins, alpacas, bom- bazines, bombazets, book muslins, &c. In the methods presented for the treatment of vari- ous colored goods, it is supposed that the articles are delicate and of some value. It would be needless, of course, to take such pains with old and dingy calicoes. In doing up new and choice goods, however, it will certainly pay to preserve the new apjjearance and briirht colors. 165.-GENERAL HINTS FOR WASHING COLORED GOODS. COLOEED articles before they are put into water should have every grease spot extracted, as the spots cannot be very well seen when the whole of the garment is wet. No soap is necessary for calicoes, unless they are very dirty. In that case make a strong milk-warm lather 141 and immerse the article in it, instead of rubbing soap on the material. Soft soap should never bo used I'or printed goods, ex- cept the various shades of yellow, which look the best washed with soft soap and not rinsed in fair water. Other colors should be rinsed in fair water. Never vv ash colored articles in hot soap-suds ; that which is milky-warm will answer quite as well, and will not extract the colors so much. Never boil or scald colored goods, nor allow tliom to freeze, as the colors will be irreparably injured. Always dry tliis class of goods in tlie shade, or, if the weather be wet, dry them by the fire. Tlie best prints will fade if hung in the sunshine. Colored articles should not be allowed to lie m water long, but should be w-ashed fast, always using as much expedition as possible. 166~GENERAL HINTS FOR IRONING COLORED GOODS. A GREAT deal of care is often taken in washing goods of delicate colors, but their color and appearance afterward are injured by careless ironing. If the following hints be always observed, the injury in ironing will be avoided : 143 As soon as tlicy are dry enongli, iron them immedi- ately. Do not allow thorn to lie damp over night, nor sprinkle them. These j)recautions will protect the goods from getting spotted. Do not smooth them with a hot sad-iron. Pink and green colors, althoiigli they may withstand the wash- ing, are quite liable to change as soon as a hot iron is applied to them, the pink turning purple, and the green blue, L'sually it is best to iron on the wrong side, but, if it be desirable to iron on tlie right side, use an iron only moderately warm. An excellent plan is to place a piece of muslin between the material and the iron. 167.-TO SET VARIOUS COLORS. OXE of the chief difficulties to be overcome in washing fine colored articles is the tendency of the colors to mix or run together. The permanence of al- most any colored fabric— silk, woolen, or cotton — may be preserved in washing by previously soaking them for some time in Mater, to every gallon of which has been added a teaspoonful of Ox Gall. This will effec- tually keep the colors from running. Colors are also preserved l>y washing the goods in luke-warm Qx Gall water, in the proportion of a teacupful of Gall to four 143 gallons of water. The Gall should be well mixed with the water. 168-TO PRESERVE OX GALL IT is a good policy to have a bottle of Beef or Ox Gall oonstantly in the ho'ise. It is ro often con- venient, and can be bought of the butchers at a trifle. It may be kept for several months by pressing it out of the skin in which it is enclosed, adding Salt to it, and preserving it in bottles, tightly corked. Ox Gall is a delicate and excellent cleansing agent. It is a liquid soda soap. It is not so good, however, for the purity of white articles, as it has a greenish tinge. 169.-AGENTS FOR SPECIAL COLORS. THE following substances are remarkably success- ful for preserving special colors, and should al- ways be used whenever such colors are washed. A teacupful of Lye in a pailful of water, will im- prove the color of blacks when it is necessary to wash them. A spoonful of clear Vinegar in the rinsing water of pink, red, or green colors, will brighten and keep 144 tliem from mixing. Soda answers the same purpose for purples and blues. The "Broke-Water'' of ('51,) is excellent for bright- ening mixed colors and keeping them from running. 170 -TO RENDER THE COLORS OF NEW GOODS PERMANENT, IF new goods, before they arc ever washed, are sub- jected to the treatment afforded by this method, their colors will be permanently set, and but little attention need be given them in the future. Di;-'solve three gills of Salt in four (piarts of boiling water. Put the nev\r goods in the solution while it is hot, and let them remain until it becomes cold. By this means, their colors v\ ill be rendered permanent, and will be less likely to fade in subsequent washings. 171.-WASHING GOODS OF DELICATE COLORS. COLORED articles of various materials, printed calicoes, cambrics, chintzes, ginghams, merinoes, alpacas, mousse-de-laines, lamas, bombazines, percales, 145 piques, &e., require nearly the same method in wash- ing, and are treated as follows : Turn the inner side of the dresses out. Use water that is only lake-warm, and make a strong lather of white soap before putting in the dresses, but do not allow soap itself to come in contact with the material. Wash them through successive lathers, until the last lather does not liave a dirty appearance. Do not allow them to remain long; in the water, but wash them as fast as possible ; and then rinse quickly through two clear cold waters. Dry in the shade. Have the sad- irons ready heated, and while the articles are still a little damp, or just dry enough to iron, bring them in and iron at once. Never sprinkle and roll them in coverings till next day. If it is not convenient to iron immediately, let them hang till quite dry, then on the following day, slightly moisten and fold them a quarter of an hour before ironing. Either iron them on the wrong side, or place a piece of muslin between the goods and the iron. In this method the directions are general and apply to any colored material, but nothing has been said about setting the colors and keeping them from running. For this purpose various colors require different ingredients, both in the wash- ing and rinsing waters, and the subject is fully con- sidered in methods (167) and (169.) If a slip be 146 obtained from the store for testing the durability of its colors, give it a fair trial by this method. 172.-0RIENTAL METHOD OF WASHING BRIGHT COLORS. IN the countries of the East very dashing and bright colors are in vogue, and Americans are indebted to the Oriental ladies for this skillful method of doing up bright colors. Its chief advantage is, tliat no soap is used, and the lustre of the goods as well as the color is preserved. Boil two pounds of Rice in two gallons of water for tliree hours, or until the Rice becomes soft. After which, pour tlie whole into a tub and let it stand to cool until about luke-warm. Then place in the articles and wash them till the dirt appears to be out, using the Rice in place of soap. Next make another prepa- ration of Rice and water in the same quantity as above, but this time, strain the Rice from the water. Save the strained water to riii^e with, and mix the pulp with w^arm water. Wasli the goods through the latter till quite clean, and then rinse them in the water in which the Rice was boiled. This rinse water answers in place of starch, and the articles will keep nicely 147 stiff when they are worn. Even dew will not affect them. A dress shonld be taken apart and hung as smoothly as possible to dry. When dry, do not use an iron, as it is liable to scorch; but rub it with a smooth, round, glass bottle, tilled with hot water. ]t is. the best plan to buil the Rice on the previous day and merely v/arin it the next morning, as then the washing can qn:cl<'y i)roceed. On no account allow the goods to lie da: lip, even for an hour, or the colors will run. Complete the whole operation at once. The brightest and most delicate goods of any material can be treated according to this method with the most pleasing success. 173.-FRENCH METHOD OF WASHING PIQUES AND PERCALES. THE French method of washing piques and per cales has always afforded very gratifying results. Prepare some rather warm, but not hot, lather of soft water and the best white soap. Wash the dresses through this lather, one at a time, but do not soak them. As soon as the first lather looks soiled, squeeze the dress from it, and at once wash it again through a fresh lather. When thoroughly clean, rinse in pure 148 cold water, and lastly in water slightly blued. Squeeze, but not wring, the water completely from the dress, and hang it in a shady place to dry. The general hints (166) will give the proper way to iron piques and percales. 174.-TO BLEACH FADED ARTICLES. MAjSTY colored articles of the choicer kinds of material when too badly faded to be presentable, can be bleached and then worn or else used for other purposes. Wash the articles well in very strong hot soap- suds, and then boil it until the color seems to be gone Again wash and rinse it, and dry it in the heat of the sun. If still not quite white, repeat the boiling. At this stage of the process, the goods may be subjected to the action of the Laundry " Bleach," (38), or treated according to the German Method of Bleaching White Goods, (40), and a clear and brilliant white will be the result. 175.-TREATMENT OF CHOICE TABLE- COVERS. BRIGHT table-covers of cotton and worsted, silk and worsted, or printed cloth, can be done up 149 easily and will look elegantly by this method. Prepare a soap liquid, by dissolving one bar of mottled soap and one pound of Pearlash in four gallons of scalding water. Have ready three tubs, and put in the lirst, one pailful of cold water and three gallons of soap liquid, in the second, one pailful of cold water and two gallons of soap liquid, and in the third, two pailfuls of cold water and one gallon of soap liquid. In another tub, prepare a rinsing water of six pailfuls of cold water with a tablespoonful of Oil of Vitriol in it. If it be a cotton and worsted cover, wash it through the three soap waters, rinse it through the Vitriol water for live minutes, and lastly rinse it out of clear cold water. Fold it smoothly, and without wringing, hang it up to drain dry. For a silk and worsted cover, use the three soap waters and rub it well, but instead of the Vitriol water, rinse the cloth well in two pailfuls of water in which have been dissolved two pounds of common Salt. Einse through two cold waters after the salted one, and hang the table-cover to dry in a warm room. Wash a printed cloth through the three soap waters, rinse through two cold waters, with a tablespoonful of Oil of Vitriol in each, and then rinse through one clear cold water. If a variety of table covers of different mixtures are to be washed, they may each be passed through the 150 same soap waters, but use for each their own rinsing water. Always fold, drain, and dry quickly in a warm room, so the colors will not run into one another. To iron table covers, lay them under a damp sheet and press with a heavy sad-iron. CHAPTER IX. 176.-W00LENS AND FLANNELS. IX doing up fine "woolen articles, a little extra care will preserve their new, bright appearance and soft glossy finish. In a few details, articles of wool recpiire a treatment in wasliing, diflercnt from goods of other material. The fibers aie arranged differently, and are of a chemical composition, unlike the fibers of either cotton, linen, or silk. Examined under the microscope, wool fibers are found not to lay straight and regular, like those of cotton and linen, but on the contrary, are intricately interwoven and twisted around each other. Hence the peculiar laundry treatment these articles re- quire. The process of rubbing, which may be applied to cotton and linen without injury, knots the fibers of the wool together and causes a thicking of the fabric, and consequently, a shrinking in its dimensions. In the case of woolens, therefore, rubbing should never bo employed. Sluicing the article up and down in the water is the proper cleansing treatment. 152 "Wringing also twists wool fibers out of place and canses fulling. The water should be pressed or squeezed out. Such is the chemical composition of wool, that soap coming in direct contact with the ma- terial, renders it harsh ; and for this reason, woolens should always be washed in hot suds only, without Soda or washing crystals. The temperature of the water in which flannels are immersed, is also a matter of importance. It should be neither cold nor scalding hot, and yet it should be as hot as the hand can bear. The several waters through which Avoolen articles pass — washing, rinsing, and blueing waters, should all be of the same temperature. If these peculiar demands of woolens and flannels are regarded when they are laundried, the results will be, they will not shrink, and the softness and original lustre will be preserved. 177.-TO REMOVE GREASE FROM WOOLENS AND FLANNELS. PLACE underneath the article to be cleansed, a sheet of blotting paper or a woolen cloth; then rub the spot with some pure Benzoin, and the grease and dirt will disappear as if by magic. Be sure to place the blotting paper or the cloth, underneath the garment to 153 be operated upon, otherwise, a circular stain will be left, very difficult of removal. The Benzoin drives the grease through the fabric, and it is absorbed by the pa- ])er placed underneath. After the spot is removed, still continue to rub till all the Benzoin evaporates. This must be done, or the Benzoin itself will leave a stain. Care should be taken in handling Benzoin (213). 178-SPIRITS OF AMMONIA. ANOTHER successfal way of removing grease from woolen articles is, to rub the spot with a piece of flannel or a sponge moistened with Spirits of Ammonia. This method is especially adapted to cases where the grease has been long in the fabric. This alkali is the most effective agent known iV)r removing grease from woolens. It unites with the grease to form a soap, which readily washes out with a little water. 179.-BLACK STAINS ON SCARLET WOOLEN GOODS. PERSPIPvATION generally leaves black stains up- on red flannel, but the dark spots may be removed as follows: Mix Tartaric Acid with water, until the water acquires a pleasant taste. Then saturate the 154 black spots with the acidulated water, taking care not to have it touch the clean part of the garment. Rinse the spot immediately in fair water. Weak Pearl- ash water is excellent to remove stains produced by acids. The Pearlash water should not be made so strong as to injure the fabric. 180-SHRINKING FLANNELS. PREVIOUS to making up flannel articles, it is well to shrink the material. The articles are then not so liable to shrink, nor will they require much attention in future washings. Soak the flannels first in cold hard water, and then in hot soft w^ater. Then, without wringing, hang them up to drain dry. This process will shrink flannel so thoroughly, that it is not apt to full in subsequent washings. 181 -WHITE WOOLENS, IF it be desired to keep white woolens from shrinking when washed, do not rub soap upon them, but make a good suds of hard soap, and wash the flannels in it. Wash them in a second suds; and then place them in a clean tub, and pour over suflBcient warm water to 155 cover them, and allow them to remain nntil the water becomes cold. A little Indigo in the; warm water will give the woolens a brighter appearance. If it is desired to have the flannels shrink so as to make them thick, wash them in soft-soap suds, and then rinse them in cold water. 182.-COLORED WOOLENS. WOOLENS of plain or variegated colors, have a strong tendency to fade in washing, and the col- ors are quite apt to mix. This difficulty may be guard- ed against, by immersing thcin in warm water con- taining a small quantity of Beef Gall, before permitting soap-suds to come in contact with them. A tablespoon- ful of Gall to a gallon of water, is about the right pro- portion to use (167). 183-HOT SUDS FOR FLANNELS. To keep fine flannels soft and bright, they should be washed in clean hot suds. They will have a clear- er and brighter appearance, if the suds be colored with a little blueing. They will be softer, if they are hung 156 out directly from the Buds, without being rinsed. Wool- ens of all kinds will be improved, if washed in rather hot suds. 184.-METH0D OF WASHING CHOICE WOOLENS AND FLANNELS. PRIOR to washing, beat out of the articles any dust or mud adhering to them. Prepare some hot suds by cutting into slices good white soap, and boiling it in soft water. Do not use the suds boiling hot, but let it bo as hot as tlie hand can bear, when the articles are put in. The woolens should not be rubbed with soap, nor sliould the material itself be rubbed. Sluice the article up and down in plenty of suds. In this manner, pass them through a suds several times, every time changing the suds, until they are perfectly clean; and tlicn instead of wringing, squeeze out the suds water. Patent clothes wringers are a vast improvement upon h:ind labor, for this purpose, as without injury to the f ibr.ic, tliey press out the water so thoroughly, that the articles dry in considerable less time than after the most tliorough hand ^'ringing. After rinsing, squeeze out the water and dry in the open air, if the weather will admit of the articles drying quickly; otherwise, dry in a warm room, but avoid too close proximity to the fire. 187 185.-IR0NING FLANNELS. FINE flannel and woolen articles, which are desired to be particularly nice, may bo made as soft, glossy and fuzzy as when they were new, provided the surface over which they are ironed is very soft, and provided a piece of damp cloth is laid over them, and tliis cloth pressed until it becomes dry. The iron should never come in direct contact with the woolen, as it will press down the nap so tightly, that the goods will have that old appearance that nearly always marks them when they have been once washed. This method of ironing is especially adapted to smoothing red flannels. 186.-W0OLEN BLANKETS. INSTEAD of ironing large woolen blankets, it is an easier and better plan to treat them in the manner following: While they are just a trifle damp, fold them p large folds, and place them between two boards or table-leaves, and lay on the top a heavy weight. Let them remain in this position, until they are dry. This plan smoothes them better than the sad-iron. 158 187~SC0TCH METHOD OF WASHING WOOLEN SHAWLS. SCOTCH laundresses tire noted for their skill in doing up fine plaid shawls, and the method they use is the following: Scrape finely, a pound of soap, and boil it down in sulHcient water. As it cools, beat it with the hands till it becomes a sort of jelly. Then add three tablespoonfuls of Spirits of Turpentine, and one of Am- monia. Wash the shawl well in this mixture. Rinse in cold water, until all the soap is dissolved away, and then rinse in salt water. Fold it between two sheets, taking care not to allow two folds of the shawl ti^j lie together. Use the salt in the rinsing water, in the ease of bright colors only that are liable to run. In ironing them, place a piece of muslin between tlie shawl and the iron. Washed according to this method, plaid shawls will look as bright as new. 188.-T0 CLEAN WOOLEN CLOTHES. THIS is one of the best methods known for scouring woolen clothes. Mix half an ounce of Sulphuric Ether and half an ounce of Aqua Ammonia, with three ounces of soft water. Eub the article well with a sponge, frequently wetting the sponge in this mixture, 159 until the dirt is removed. Then sponge with clean water. Next, lay over the article a coarse towel, which has been saturated with water and wrung out, and press the towel with a hot iron. While the steam is yet rising from the clotli, brush it down with a clothes brush ; and the article will have a decidedly new ap- pearance. 189.-T0 WASH RED FLANNELS. FLANNELS of the brightest red or scarlet, when soiled, can be washed by these directions, and they will never lose their color. Mix a handful of Flour and a quart of cold water together, and boil them for ten minutes. Add this to some warm suds, and wash the flannel gently, rinsing rather than rubbing it. Then rinse it through three or four warm waters. Soft, or Olive soap should be used for woolens, in preference to hard soap. 190.-TO PRODUCE A BEAUTIFUL WHITE ON FLANNELS. FLANNEL turned yellow by age, may be whitened by soaking it for some time in a solution of hard soap, to which strong Ammonia has been added, and then drying in the sunshine. This is the process which man- 160 ufactures employ for bleaching flannels, and the pro- portions the}' use are, one and a half pounds of hard Boap, fifty pounds of salt water, and one and two-thirds pounds of strong Ammonia. For home use, the same proportions may be used, but reduced to suit the quan- tity of material to be bleached. 191.-A QUICK METHOD OF BLEACHING FLANNEL, A BEAUTIFUL white may be reproduced on flan- nels turned yellow by age, in a shorter time than that required hy the previous method. Soak the flannel for a quarter of an hour in a dilute solution of Bisulphate of Soda, to which has been added, under constant stirring, a little dilute Hydro- chloric acid. Keep a cover over the vessel containing the solution. After soaking the goods the allotted time, rinse them thoroughly in rather liot water. This last method is very speedy. 192 -TO RESTORE THE GLOSSY FINISH. THE glossy finish of woolen goods is always re- moved by washing, but it may be restored by the accompanying plan. Brush over the cloth the way of 161 the nap, with a brush dipped in very weak gum water, (28). Lay over it a sheet of paper or a piece of muslin, and pLaee it under a weight or in a screw press until dry. This treatment is valuable for restoring the dull spot often left after washing out a stain. Of course, if the woolen articles are old and dingy, nothing could restore the original linish, but w^ith new goods this method is successful. 193 -TO WHITEN FLANNEL OR WOOLEN HOSE. WET the woolen yarn or hose with weak suds, wring it out, and then hang it on sticks or a cord stretclied across a barrel, in the bottom of which powdered Brimstone or Sulphur is burning. Two tablespoonfuls of Brimstone is sufficient. Tlie barrel must be tightly covered. If they are not white enough by one application, repeat the process. Hang the yarn in the open air for a day or so, to remove all odor of the Sulphur. Then wash the yarn and rinse it through blueing water. Be careful not to let the Sulphur blaze or scorch the hose. 194-LAMBS' WOOL HOSE. WOKS TED or lamb's wool stockings or other knit articles should never be mended with un- 163 Blininken worsted or lamb's wool ; because the latter being new it shrinks when washed more than the hose, and draws them up till the toes become short and narrow and the heel has no shape left. First M'ash the new yarn so that it will correspond with the old. 195.-" TUB-WASHING" AND BLEACH- ING WOOL IN bleaching wool it is essential to tirst free it from its natural grease. The following is the method used in large mills, where several tons are always cleansed in one scouring. This mill process is termed '' tub-washin. and pour over them a pint of boiling water, (/over the vessel containing the liquid, and let it stand wliere the water will keep warm, if possible, The next day. boil it again, strain it and add a dessert- spoonful of Alcohol. Sponge the silk 071 the rigl.r side, keeping the liquid worm; and iron immediately on tlie wrong side, with an iron oidy moderately hot. Bv thus steeping tlie kid glove, certain portions are 181 dissolved, and a decoction is obtained possessing ad- mirable pro])erties for restoring silks. For black silks, use a black kid glove; and for light shades of silk, use white or light kid gloves. For this purpose, it is well to save old kid gloves of \"arious colors. Tlic solution will answer without the Alcohol, but is much better with it. By this method, the silk is not only cleansed, but a beautiful lustre is added. 223.-SILKS SLIGHTLY SOILED, WHEN silks are but slightly soiled, they may very frequently be renovated in the following simple way: Sponge the silk with warm water and soap; then place it on a hard board, and rul) it dry with a dry cloth. Afterward iron it gently o!i the inside, using the hard board for an ironing surtace. Old black silk may be im])roved by sponging it with White Lye. In this case, the ironing must be done on the right side, a thin paper being placed under the iron to prevent glazing. 224.-SILK STOCKINGS. w THITE, or silk stockings of fanc}^ colors, will last / twice the usual time, and can be kept soft and 183 looking like now, if treated by the accompanying method. Heat some soft water, and while it is on the lire cut into it slices of good yellow soap, sufficient to make a lather. Put in the stockings while the lather is wari^!. but not scalding hot, and wash them through two such lathers. A wineglassful of Gin in the first lather is an improvement, as it greatly facilitates in the removal of the dirt. Rinse them in luke-warm water, and then pass them through a water tinged with a little blueing. Eose pink, (63), such as is used for line muslins and laces, is better than the blueing. After rinsing, place the stockings between towels and let them get almost dry. Tiien lay them out on a small sheet very smooth and flat, just as they are when first purchased. Tack them to the sheet with, a needle and thread, then turn the sheet over them, and pass them through tlie mangle. If it is not convenient to have them mangled, run be- tween weighted rollers; the next best plan, is to put about six stockings, one upon the other, between nms- lin, lay them on a stone doorstep, and roll them in the same way that dough is rolled with a rolling pin. They should not be mangled or rolled in towels, as the pat- tern of the towels would be impressed upon them. If the stockings have lace fronts, they will more particu- larly require the tacking mentioned above to make them look nice. No Washing Soda or Crystal of an} 183 kind should be i:sed. Do theui as quickly as possible, and not leave them lying about. A good laundress takes as much pride in doing up a silk stockiiig elegant- ly, as she would a white vest. 225.-W ASHING SILK SHAWLS. MANY ladies never attempt to wash fine silk or woolen shaws. They are afraid to make the ex- periment, but by this simple method these articles may be washed without mixing the colors, and they will be as soft and bright as when first purchased. Pare and grate raw, mealy Potatoes, and add two f[uarts of cold water to every pint of the Potato pulp. Let it stand five hours, and then strain through a sieve, rubbing through as much of the Pototo pulp as possible. Let the strained w^ater settle again, and when very clear, carefully turn the water ofl' from the dregs. Xext place a clean white cotton sheet over a perfectly clean table, and lay on the shawl which is to be cleaned, and tightly pin it down. Dip a sponge that has never been used into the Potato water, and rub the shawl until it is clean. Then rinse in clean water, usintr in this rins- ing water a teacupful of salt to every pailful of water. Next spread the shawl on a clean level place, where it will dry quickly. If hung up to dry, the colors are apt 184 to run and the shawl will be rendered streaked. Fold it up while still damp and let it remain half an hour. Then either pass it through a mangle, or wrap it in a clean white sheet, and place it under a lie;ivy weight till it becomes dry. If there arc any grease spots on the shawl, it is best to remove them before the washing is begun. 226.-DAMASK AND BROCATELLO TAPESTRY. TAPESTRY Avhich has some parts raised above the ground, representing flowers and other figure?, are usually considered difficult of renovation ; but the rich- est and m.ost elegant iiowered curtain, either silk aii'l cotton, silk and worsted, damask, terry, or broeateilo, may be restored to nearly its original beauty by tlie ac- companying treatment: First dip the curtain into Camphene; then lay it on a board, and with a brush, rub it first on the wrong side and then on the right. Dip the curtain again into the Camphene, and then rinse it in some fresh Camphene. Let it drain a minute or two. Wipo it with a linn, ur cotton sheet till all the moisture possible is absorbed; and then brush it with a dry brush of soft hnir. Ha-ng 185 it in the open air for a few hours to take away the odor of tho Cainphene. Dampen the curtain by placing it between moistened sheets. Iron with a damp cloth between the curtain and the iron. A gallon of Cam- phene is sufficient for each curtain width. 227.-SILK COVERINGS AND WORSTED REPS. SILK or worsted rep furniture of any kind or color, may be iVeshened as follows : First place a sheet un- der each piece of furniture as it is cleaned, to catch the fallinir litter. Then dust Indian Meal over the article and rub it with a stiti'brush till it is clean. When silk cushions or silk coverings to furniture become dingy, rub dry bran on them gently with a woolen cloth, till they become clean. ^■^^1 % '^r^t^(->^"^'^J§g)^^-^7^ -f-^ CHAPTER XL 22a-LACES, SATINS, AND VELVETS, THIS may be appropriately styled the ornamental chapter, for it treats of the finest articles of a lady's wardrobe, laces, crapes, veils, satins, velvets, silk ribbons, trimmings, kid gloves and furs. It is obvious that the costlier the article, the more valuable will be a knowledge of the art of preserving and renovating it. Every spring, summer, antumn, and winter, goes forth from Worth, the Parisian Artist de ?node, a change of fashions. "As well out of the world as out of fashion," so four times a year must a lady seek the aid of the dress-maker and milliner. In the bustle of changing and remodeling, how essential for economy is a perfect knowledge of the skillful renovation of cost- lier articles. In the matter of economy alone, the fol- lowing n.iethods recon.imend themselves. They are methods which the most skillful Parisian milliners, dressmakers 2::d laundresses employ. 187 229-TO CLEAR STARCH LACES. STARCH for laces should be made thicker, and used hotter than for linens. After laces have been well washed and dried, dip them in the thick hot starch in such a way that every part may be thoroughly starched. Then press out the excess of starch, t^pread them out smoothly on a piece of linen, and roll the whole up together, allowing them to remain half an hour, when they M'ill be dry enough to iron. iSTever clap laces between the hands, as it injures them. Cambrics do not require starch so thick as nets or laces. Cold or raw starch is preferable for book muslin, as some of this material has a thick clammy appearance if starched in boiled starch. Fine laces are frequently wound around a glass bottle to dry, as by this uj.eans they are kept from shrinking. 230.-IR0NING LACES. IT is far better not to iron laces at all, especially line lace; but in the case of ordinary laces and worked muslin, it will sometimes answer to pass a cool iron over the back of the lace, with paper between the iron 188 and tlie lace. Raised point can be laid face downward on several folds of liannel, and the ivory punch or lob- ster claw inserted behind the raised portions. This, however, is rather a delicate operation, and perhaps had better not be attempted, for in the old nnwashed lace these portions are not so prominent. To produce something of the same eilect in ironing embroidery, ordinary lace, crochet, guipure cV art, anti- macassars, &c., have several folds of flannel beneath, press the point of the sad-iron Avell into the raised por- tions, and iron on the wrong side. 231,-lRONING FINE LACES, THE finer kind of laces require a special treatment for smoothing them. When the lace has been starched and dried and is ready to be smoothed, spread it out as evenly as possible on the ironing cloth, and pass over it, back and forth, as quickly as possible, a smooth round glass bottle containiuijc hot Wiitcr, r-'iviu'i* the bottle such pressure as may be rcciuircd to perfectly smooth the lace. Sometimes the lace may be passed over the bottle, care being taken to keep the lace even and smooth. Either way is much better than to smooth laces with a sad-iron, for the iron is apt to turn the lace 189 yellow. In filling the bottle -with hot water, do not fill too fast or the bottle may break. 232.-TO WASH WHITE SILK LACE, OR DELICATE BLOND. 11 /TA^l ladies may think this a rather long process, J^Vl ^^d one reqniring too much care; but some blond lace is very delioitc and valuable and cannot be roughly handled. By following the directions of this method, ladies will surely be pleased with the results. Take a black bottle covered with clean linen or mus- lin, and wind the blond around it, not leaving the edge outward but cover it as you proceed, and secure the ends with a needle and thread. Set the bottle upright in a pan containing a strong lather made from white soap and, very clear soft water. Place the pan in the sunshine, and gently with the hand rub tlie lather up and down on the lace. Keep it thus in the sunshine every day for a week, changing the lather daily, and always gently rubliing the lace every time tlie lather is re- newed. At the end of the week, take the blond oft' the bottle, and without wringing, pin it backward and forward on a large pillow provided with a clean tight case. Every scallop must have a separate pin, or more 190 than one, if the scall(ip? are not very small. The plain edge nnist also be piniied down to make it straight and even. The pins should be of the smallest toilet size. Wlien quite dry remove the blond from the pillow, but neither starch, iron, or ])ross it, simply lay it in long loose folds and put it auay in a paste-board box. 233-REVIVING BLOND LACE. QUITE frequently blond lace, although but little soiled, has a wilted appearance which makes it look almost ruined. In such cases, it is not necessary to go through the long operation required by the pre- vious method. The lace when but slightly soiled, can generally be revived by breathing upon it, and then briskly shaking and flapping it. The process may be repeated several times. 234.-FINE THREAD LACE. FINE thread lace may be washed in the same man- ner as th? blond, (232), or the process may be modified a little. When the thread lace has been attached to the bottle, take some of the best Sweet Oil and thorouohlv saturate the lace. Have ready in a 191 kettle a strong latlier of soft water and wliite Castile Soap. Fill the bottle with cold water to prevent its vaulting, then cork it well, and stand it ii])right in tlie suds. To prevent the bottle from shifting alxmt and breaking while over the fire, tie a string around its neck and secure the string to the eai-s ot the kettle Let it boil in the suds for an hour, or nntil the lace is clean and white all through. Then drain off the suds and dry the lace in the sunshine, keeping it still attached to the bottle. When dry, remove it from the bottle, and wind it around a white ribbon block ; or lay it in long folds within a sheet of smooth white paperj and then press it in a large book for a few days. It is a good idea to add about twelve drops of Aqua Ammonia to the lather for washins; laces. 235.~PARISIAN METHOD OF WASH- ING POINT LACE. By following the directions given in this method, ladies may wash and finish their own point lace as skillfully as the best French laundress. Prepare a basin of strong white Castile Soap suds, and add a tea- spoonful of powdered Borax. Baste the lace to be washed very carefully upon two folds of flannel with 192 fine cotton. Soak the lace thus arranged in the soap mixture for twenty liours, or longer if very dirty, changing tlic suds several times. Next lay it to rinse in clear soft water for about three hours, changing this Vv'ater once. Do not wring it, hut squeeze out the water, and place tiie flannel with the lace still attached td it, lace downward, upon two folds of dry flannel. Lay the flannel on a table and smooth it with a hot iron. During the entire operati(jn tl:e lace must re- main basted to tlie flannel, and wlien it is pressed, must lie sandwiched between t!ie dry and damp flannels, and pressed upon the latter, AVhen the lace is perfectly dry, rip it ofl" the flannel, and it will be found elegantly laundried. 236.-SUGAR SIZING FOR LACES. A SOLUTION of white Sugar makes an admirable sizing for laces. Dissolve twelve lumps of pure white Sugar in a teacupful of hot water. More or less of this sizing can l)e prepared, according to the quan- tity of lace to be starched. Pour it into a pan and add a little blueing or Eose Pink, (03). Dip each piece of lace separately in the sizing; and instead of wringing, squeeze out the excess of sizing. 103 237-CREAMY TINT. THE choicest kinds of laces have a peculiar creamy tint. The more valuable the lace, the richer this creamy tint will be. This much prized tint can be easily imparted to almost any kind of white lace, and it will be a very clever imitation of the costly article. Sim})ly sponge or dip the lace in cold coffee. The decoction should be made pure, from Mocha, or the genuine old Java. It must not be made too strong, however, or it will impart too brown a tint. 238.-MAGNESIA AND FRENCH CHALK. FINE laces may sometimes be cleaned by covering them with French Chalk or Magnesia, and thus laying them away for a week. At the end of that time, brush off the powder, and often the lace comes out perfectly clean. This method is so simple and attended with so little trouble, that it is advisable to try it before resorting to more difficult expedients. In about two-thirds of the cases where it has been tried, it has proved highly successful. 194 239 -TO WASH BLACK LACE. RUSTY l>lack lace can be beautifully restored by this treatniont. Dissolve Spirits of Wine and Borax, of each oik^ teaspoonful, in half a teacupful of very soft watei-. Squeeze the lace through this liquid three or lour times; then rinse it in a cnp of hot water, in which a lilack kid glove has been steeped. After which, pull out the edges of the lace, and when it is nearly dry, ])ress it iu a heavy l)Ook for about two davs. 240.-SILVER AND GOLD LACE. THIS method will be found very valuable in clean- ing regalia suits, or any silver and gold trimmings. Lay the lace out smoothly on a piece of woolen carpet or a woolen cloth, and brush it free from dust. Prepare the cleansing powder by burning Roche Alum, powdering it finely, and sifting it throngh a lawn sieve. Rub this powder over the lace with a fine brush. By thus doing the tarnish Avill be removed and the brightness restored, provided the threads of the lace are not too badlv worn. 195 241.-T0 WASH A WHITE LACE VEIL ''piIERE is probably no article of fashion so easilj j[ soiled, and their successful renovation so little understood, as lace veils. They may be skillfully waslicd, however, without the slightest injury. Prepare a good lather of white soap and clear soft water. Immerse the veil and let it gently simmer for a quarter of an hour; then take it out, but be sure not to rub or wring it, merely squeeze out the water. Rinse it through two cold waters with a few drops of liquid blue or Rose Pink, (63), in the last. Next starch the veil by passing it through some clear G urn- Arabic water, or some thin Rice water. Stretch it out evenly and pin it to dry on a clean linen cloth, making the edge as straight as possible, opening out all the Bcallops and fastening each with pins. When dry, lay a piece of thin muslin over it, and iron on the wrong side. 242.-TO WASH A BLACK LACE VEIL T O a quantity of Ox Gall, add hot water sufficient to render it as hot as the hand can bear, and it is 196 well to add a little Musk to perfume the Ox Gull. Fuss the veil tlirougli this water, squeezing but not rubbing it; and rinse through two cold waters, tinging the last with a little Blueing. After it is dry, dress it in a sizing prepared by pouring boiling water on a sniaU piece of Glue, (30); then sc[ueeze it through this sizing, and pin it out to dry on a linen cloth, laying it very straight and even, and taking care to e\('n]y pin the edges. When it dries, iron it on the wrong side, having laid a linen cloth over the ironing blanket. Any article of black lace may be washed by tlie same process. 243.-T0 REMOVE STAINS FROM BLACK CRAPE. BY this method stains can l>e removed not only from black crape, V)ut from mourning dresses also. Boil a handful of Fig Leaves in two quarts of water until the decoction evaporates to a pint, then press out the leaves, strain the liqui !, and bottle for use. Crape, 7nourning dresses, bombazines, &v,., need only to be rubbed with a sponge dipped in this liquid, and the desired effect will be instantly produced. 197 244.-T0 RESTORE RUSTY ITALIAN CRAPE. HEAT half a pint of Skim Milk and water in equal proportions, and when ?calding hot, dissolve in it a piece of Glue an int-li scpuire, and then remove from thoiire. Fir&t clean the crape l\v rinsing it in Yinegar, and then stiflien it by dipping it in Milk solution. Squeeze it out and clap it till drv, and then smoftth it with a liot iron. A slieet of paper should always he laid over it when it is ironed. Gin is also excellent to restore rusty black crape. Dip it in and let it become saturated with the Gin. Then clap it dry, and smooth it o\it with a moderately hot iron. Italian crape may also be died to look as bright as new. 245.-WATER STAINS ON BLACK CRAPE. WHEN a drop of water falls on a black crape veil or collar, it leaves a (conspicuous white mark. These marks may be obliterated as follows: Spread the crape out on a table and place a large book on it to 198 keep it steady, and lay a piece of old black silk under- neath the stain. With a large camel's liair brush dipped in common black ink, go over the stain, and then M'ipe off the ink with a bit of old soft silk. It will dry immediately and the white stain will be no longer visible. 246.-T0 WASH A CHINA CRAPE SCARF. WHEIn" the fabric is good, these articles of dress can be washed as frequently as may be required, and no diminution of their beauty will be discoverable, even when among other colors of the pattern, the deli- cate shades of green are employed. Make a strong lather of wliite soap and boiling soft water, and allow it to cool. When cold, or nearly so, wash the scarf quickly and thoroughly in it ; then dip it immediately in cold hard water, in which a little Salt has been dissolved to preserve the colors. Give it another rinsing, and squeeze out the water, and hang it out to dry in the open air. Always pin it at its ex^ treme edges to the line, so that it may not be folded together in any of its parts. The more rapidly the scarf dries the clearer and brighter will it appear. 199 247-RIBBONS, VELVETS AND SATINS. VELVETS, satins, silk ribbons, and trimmings, re- quire nearly the same treatment as is applied to silks for removing great^e, spots. The methods for washing this class of goods are also similar to the silk methods. To avoid needless repetition, ladies are referred to the various silk methods, (l!>7) to (221), whenever they may have occasion to renovate velvets, satins, or ribbons. A few methods, however, are spe- cially adapted to these materials. 248-SOILED RIBBON. A MIXTURE of Alcohol and finely rectified Ben- /~\ zoin is excellent for cleaning soiled ribbons. It 1 is applied with a clean sponge. Be careful not to get near a fire or burning lamp, under pcnalt}' of an ex- plosion, (2^■^). Colors taken out by acids or vegetable juices may be readily restored by the use of Aqua Amm.onia; which may be applied to any fabric or color without doing the least injury. 900 249.-ISINGLASS SIZING. ISINGLASS sizing is much used to impart to ribbons gauze, or silk scarfs, a fine gloss and finish. After the dirt, grease spots and stains have been removed, rinse the article thoroughly in water, in which has been mingled a little Isinglass Starch, prepared as in method (31). Gum Arabic Starch, (28), is also good for the same purpose. 250.-CREASED RIBBONS. TO restore creased ribbons, lay them out smoothly on a clean board, and dampen them evenly all over with water, using a very clean sponge. Roll them smoothly and tightly on a ribbon block of greater width than the ribbon and let them remain until dry. Wrap them in brown paper, and lay them away until wanted. 251-WRINKLES IN SILK SCARFS AND HANDKERCHIEFS. THIS is a very good way to remove wrinkles from silk scarfs and handkerchiefs. Moisten the sur- 201 face evenly with a sponge and some Wheat Ghic, and then fasten the article with toilet pins, around the shelves or on a mattress, taking pains to draw out tlie article as smoothly as possible. When dry, the wrinkles will be invisible. Some silk articles are much improved when moistened with Glue or Gum Water, which must be very weak. 252-TO STIFFEN SILK TRIMMINGS. SPONGE the surface of. the silk with a very weak Gum Arabic solution, (28); or with equal parts of Ale and water, and iron on the wrong side wdiile it is damp. These are favorite methods with milliners, and are largely employed when old silks are used for trim- mings, and it is desired that they should be particularly stiff. 253.-WRAPPING RIBBONS. WHEN laying ribbons away in drawers, it is a bad plan to wrap them in newspapers. The Chlo- ride of Lime used in the manufacture of Mdiite paper and newspapers is quite apt to bleach or fade delicate colors. Use instead, son:ie soft brown paper. White or 203 light shades of ribbon and satin, when laid away, should be wrapped first in blue tissue paper, and then with brown paper on the outside. For wrapping any delicate colored goods, the smooth yellow Indian paper is the best that can be used. 254.-T0 EXTRACT GREASE FROM VELVET AND SATIN. POUR a little Turpentine over the spot and rub it _ briskly with a piece of clean dry flannel, until the spot becomes quite dry. If the first application is not successful, repeat the operation ; then brush the place well and hang the article in the open air, so that the unpleasant odor of the Turpentine may be removed. 255 -TO RAISE THE PILE ON VELVET, '"I^HE pile or plush of velvet when pressed down X may be easily raised and made to appear as glossy as when new. Hold the wrong side of the velvet over the steam arising from the boiling water until the pile rises. Another way is to lightly dampen the wrong side of the velvet, and hold it over a pretty hot iron 203 but yet not hot enough to scorch. The steam arising will penetrate the velvet and the plush may be raised with a brush. Still another way, is to place a clean hot brick upon a wet cloth; hold over the velvet, and the steam will raise the pile. To give the gloss, rub well between the hands a small quantity of pure Lard, which must be entirely free from salt. Use only enough Lard to barely oil the hands. Lay the velvet out smoothly on a table, and gently pass the oily hands over the plush side. This will restore the glossy appearance, and can be used for either silk velvet, or velveteen. 256 -TO CLEAN WHITE & FLOWERED SATINS. PREPAEE a mixture of equal parts of sifted stale Bread Crumbs and powdered Blue. Thoroughly rub the satin all over with this mixture ; then shake it well and dust it off with a clean soft cloth. If the satin is embellished with gold or silver flowers, rub the flowered portion with a piece of soft ingrain velvet, which will restore it to its original lustre. Next pass the satin through a solution of fine white hard soap, at a hand heat, drawing the satin through the hand. 204 Rinse in lukewarm water, dry it, and finish by pinning it out smoothly. Brush the flossy or bright side with a clean clothes brush, the way of the nap. Imj)art a fin- ish by dipping a sponge into sizing, prepared by boiling Isinglass in water, (31), and rubbing the wrong side. Rinse a second time, use the brush again, and dry near the fire or in a warm room. Silks also may be cleansed by this method, but dispense with the brushing process. 257.-K1D GLOVES. FEW ladies are aware that kid gloves can be reno- vated as perfectly as any other article, yet such is a fact. Tiie methods presented in this department are easy to follow, and will afford admirable results. It will be found the most economical to purchase the very best quality of kid gloves, for w^henever they become soiled they can be readily cleansed and be made as good as new. Good gloves can be renovated a number of times, until they are worn out. They will thus outlast several pair of cheap gloves. Ladies who wear kid gloves in hot weather and who perspire freely, will find that injury to the gloves may be prevented if they will apply to the hands before drawing on the gloves, com- mon dry Corn Starch. S05 258.-STAINS ON KID GLOVES. STAINS may bo removed even from the most delicate colored gloves, bj ?uppending them for a day in an atmosphere of Ammonia. This may be accomplished by placing strong Aqua Ammonia in tlie bottom of a tall glass cylinder or a glass fruit can. Be careful to re- move from the sides of the jar, any of th.e Ammonia which may spatter upon them, Attacli tlie gloves to the stopper and suspend them in the jar, and the Ammonia gas will neutralize the stains. The gloves, however, must not come in contact M'ith the liquid Ammonia. W 259.- WASHING KID GLOVES. THEX kid gloves are so badly soiled that they / require washing, the following method will be found very valuable. Old kid gloves will look nearly new, they will be soft, glossy, smooth, elastic and pos- sess a good sliape. Spread out the glove smoothly and neatly on a cloth folded three or four times. Have ready a little new Milk in one saucer and a piece of nice hard Soap in another. Dip a piece of soft flannel in the Milk, and with the flannel thus moistened, rub off a goodly quantity of the Soap, and begin to rub 206 the glove downward towards tlie lingers, holding it firmly with the left liand. Continue this process until the glove, if white, looks of a dingy color, although ck'an; or if colored, until dark and spoiled. Lay them away to dry, or what is better, place them on tlie liand and rub tliciii (h-y witli a piece of soft flannel. They will soon look like new gloves. 260.-FRENCH KID GLOVES. I^IIIS mctliod of cleaning French kid gloves is the one practiced in Paris, and for a long time the secret was zealously guarde 1. Since its introduction in this country, th(3usands of dollars have been saved. The method is exceedingly simple. Draw the gloves on the hands and wa'^h them in some Spirits of Turpen- tine until they become quite clean. AVash them just as if you were washing your hands. When clean, hang them in a v.-arm place to dry, or better, where there is a current of air, and the unpleasant Turpen- tine odor will disappear. 261.-T0 CLEANSE GLOVES WITHOUT WETTING. I T may be an advantage to cleanse gloves without wetting them, as it would be impossible for them to 207 shrink. Make a niixturo of dried Fuller's Earth and powdered Alum in cqnul parts, and havinii; laid the gloves upon a clean board, apply the mixture on each side with a common stiii' brush; then dust olf the pow- der, and sprinkle them well with dry Bran and AV bit- ing, and again dust them. This treatnu nt, if tluy ;;re not exceedingly greasy, will reu'ler them quite ch-an. If they are much soiled take out the grease with Crumbs of toasted Bread and powder of burnt B(Mf.; then pass them over with a woolen cloth dipptd in Fullers Earth, or Alum powder. In this manner they mav be cleansed witliout wettino; them. 262-OPERA GLOVES, OR KID GLOVES OF LIGHT SHADES LADIES are well aware how readily opera kid gloves become soiled. They can rarely be worn but once, for nearly every thing with which they come in contact leaves its mark. Those who are fond of wearing kid gloves of this style, can appreciate a suc- Qessful method of renovating them. Magnesia, Moist Bread and India Paibber are each ffood to clean kid rrloves of Hu-ht color. The substance should be thoroughly rubbed on the glove, and when brushed off, the glove will be found quite clean. Some- 208 times, however, gloves of very delicate sliades are so badly soiled that they cannot be cleaned by this treat- ment. In such cases the color may be changed by dyeing them with a decoction of Saffron. The color will then be changed to yellow or brown, according to the strength of the Saffron decoction. Prepare the decoction by steeping Sali'ron in boiling water for about twelve hours. The top edges of the gloves must be well sewed together, to prevent the dye from staining the insides, and the best way of applying the dye is with a sponge. A teacupful of the Satiron decoction will be found sufficient for one pair of gloves. 263-GENLEINE. GANLEIXE 1-i a French composition for cleaning kid gloves. Dissolve three Troy ounces of Soap by heat in two ounces of water, and when nearly cold add two ounces of Javelle Water, (57), and one drachm of Aqua Annnonia. AVork the whole into a paste, which is to be rubbed over the glove with flannel until it is sufficiently clean. 264.-EXCELLENT PERFUME FOR GLOVES. T AKE of Damask or Rose Scent, half an ounce; Spirit of Cloves and Mace, each a drachm ; Frank- 209 incense, a quarter of an ounce. Mix them well together and lay them in papers, and when hard press the irloves between them. The gloves will take tlie perfume in twenty-four hours, and hardly ever loose it. (132). 265.-FURS. IN cleaning furs, strip them of their stuffing and binding, and lay them in as flat a position as possi- ble. They should then be subjected to a very brisk brushing: with a stiff clothes brush. After the brush- ing, any moth-eaten parts must be cut out, and neatly replaced with bits of new fur to match. 266.-SABLE, CHINCHILLA, SQUIRREL, FITCH. FURS of these varieties should be treated as follows: Warm a quantity of new Bran in a pan and actively stir it to keep it from burning. "When well warmed rub it strongly into the fur with the hand. Eepeat the rubbing two or three times; then shake the fur well and give it a sharp brushing to entirely free it from dust. SIO 267.-WHITE FURS, ERMINE, MINEVER, ETC. LAY the fur on tlie table and rub it well with Bran moistened witli warm water. Rub the fur with the moist Bran until the Bran becomes dry, and then rub it again with the dry Bran. The wet Bran should be put on with flaimel, and the dry with a piece of book muslin. Liglit furs, in addition to the above, should be well rubbed with Magnesia, or a piece of bool: muslin, after the Bran process. Dry Flour may be used in place of the wet Bran. It requires a very thorough rubbing to clean ermine and minever, and they should always be rubbed against the way of the fur. 268.-STRETCHING. FURS are usually much improved by stretching, which may be managed as follows. Dissolve three ounces of Salt in a pint of soft water. Strip the fur of its binding and stuffing, and then with this solu- tion sponge the inside of the skin until it becomes thoroughly saturated. Care must be taken, however, 211 not to wet the fur itself. Next lay it carefully on a board, uith the fur side downward in its natural posi- tion. ±\o\v stretch it as nmcli as it will bear to the required shajK', and fasten with small tacks. The dry- ing may be hastened by placing the skin at a little dis- tance from the fire, where the warmth will strike it. 269.-T0 PREVENT MOTHS IN FURS. IN the month of April or May, beat fur garments well with a small cane or elastic stick. Lap them up in linen, without pressing the fur too hard, and put small lumps of Camphor between the folds. Lay the fur away in this state, in well closed boxes. \Yhen the furs are M-anted for use again, beat them well and expose them to the air for twenty-fonr hours, and the unpleasant odor of the Camphor will disappear. If the fur has long hair, as beaver or fox, mix with the Cam- phor an equal quantity of strong Elack Pepper in poAV- der. A keg in which whiskey has been kept, is the most reliable place to put away furs during the summer. CHAPTER XII. 270.-GENTLEMEN'S CLOTHING. LADIES are naturallj very apt in renovating their wearing apparel, hut many ladies, compelled per- haps by necessity, or induced by a prudential turn of mind, closely study such economy, and from con- tinual practice a v>'onderful skill and adroitness is at- tained. They seldom purchase new clothes, yet these ladies dress in excellent taste, and their wardrobe is as complete as one upon which three times more money has been expended. To but few persons, however, does it ever occur that gentlemen's clothing can be just as advantageously renovated. Whenever their clothes be- come a little rusty, gentlemen usually purchase a new suit, never thinking tliat by proper renovation a second service could be obtained iVom the old one. By skill- ful management, garments which have become too shabby even for wearing about home or while at w^ork- can be readily converted into respectable Sunday 213 clothes; even where they have worn glossy or thread- bare, the original appearance can be restored, A small unpretending sign, ''Gentlemen's Clothes Cleaned ami Repaired," may be seen in every city of the civilize) world. In these little clothes-cleansing establishments, constant experience determines the very best methods to employ. A careful treatment according to the methods here presented, will produce a wonderful change in the appearance of old clothes. 271-GREASE SPOTS, GREASE is tlie most common cause of gentlemen's clothes becoming soiled, and the spots usually dis- figure the clothes more than anything else, for the grease not only spreads over a large surface, but the dust which invariably settles on it becomes incorporated with the grease, and adds to the disfigurement. Various agents ;irc used for removing grease spots, but the dis- advantage with most of them is, they do not entirely extract the grease. The spots may be invisible for a time, yet tliey soon reappear. Benzoin is extensively used and with good success. A very genteel old gen- tleman, whose clothes always appeared new and seemed to never wear out, when asked how he kept thcDi look- ing so well, answered, that he bought "Benzoin instead 214 of new clothes. lie had not houglit a new suit for four years, but every year lie bought a gallon of Benzoin. 272.-PEARLASH AND LIME LIQUID. THIS liquid thoroughly extracts all the grease frcm the cloth, and the method is one of the best known for this purpose. To certain vegetable colorr-^, however, it is highly destructive, and in such cases should never be used; for other coloi-s it is entirely harmless. Dis- solve one q-iart of Lime in as much soft water as v»-ill dissolve tli3 Lime and leave about a quart of clear water, af. jr the solution has been well stirred and allowed to settle. Let it stand about two hours, and then decant the clear liquid from the dregs into another vessel. I^ow add to this clear liquid half an ounce of Pearlash; stir the mixture, and when it settles bottle for use. Before using, the liquid should be diluted with water to adapt it to the strength or delicacy of the color of the cloth. It is applied with a coarse sponge, rubbing out the grease, and rinsing with clear water afterward. 273.-T0 REMOVE ACID STAINS. N OTHING can be better than Chloroform to restore the color of garments when destroyed by acids. 215 "When any acid has accidently or otherwlt-c destroyed or clianged the color of a ganneut, Aqua Aiunionia sliould tirt^t be applied to neutralize the stain. A siuh- Bcquent application of Chloroform will then rccloru the original color (204), As far as possible, treat the htaiu as soon as the accident happens. 274.-T0 REMOVE ALKALINE STAINS, ODA, lye, and many other alkalic.; produce stains upon dark garments. Such stains can generally bo made to disappear by the prompt application of Acetic Acid. When the cause of any stiiin is known to be an alkali, saturate the spot with Acetic Acid, and the Acid should then be entirely removed by a liberal application of water, I'ure Cider Vinegar may be used instead of Acetic Acid. 275~TO REMOVE PAINT AND WAX STAINS. FIRST remove with a knife, as mucli of the wax as possible, without injury to the cloth. Drop a lit- tle Benzoin on the stain and rub it gently with a sponge 216 repeating this process until tlie stain disappears. Stains caused by substances ot* a resinous nature, as turpen- tine, pitch, resin, &:c., may be removed by pure Alcoliol. To remove paint or varnish, Chloroform is the most successful agent that can be em. ployed, (211) (204). 276.-STAIN METHOD FOR GENERAL APPLICATION. THIS method will remove stains of various kinds fro'u broadcloth, and in a great many cases will prove quite sufficient. Take an ounce of Pipe Clay that has been ground very fine, and mix it w itli twelve drops of pure Alcohol and the same quantity of Recti- fied Spirits of Turpentine. AVhen it is desired to re- move a stain from broadcloth, moisten a little of this mixture with Alcohol, and rub it on the spot; let it remain until dry, and when the powder is brushed off it will be found that the stain has disappe;i.red. The removal of stains is very thoroughly considered in the chapter on silks. Many of the metliods tliere pre- sented would apply equally as well to gentlemen's cloth- ing. It is unnecessary to repeat them here, but in case of stains in gentlemen's, clothes which do seem to be ->17 covered by the Jiiethotis in this departmeut, llie stain methods for silks (197) to (211), may profitably be con- sulted. 277.-METH0D OF CLEANSING BROAD- CLOTH. THIS method for cleaning, or rather washing gentle- men's garment?, is presented with the assurance that it will give the very best of satisfaction, as it is one of the most effective methods that can be employed. Dissolve half a pound of Saleratus and one Beef Gall in four gallons of warm water. L-ay the garment on a table and scour it thoroughly in every part wdth a clothes brush dipped in this mixture ; the collar of a coat and the grease spots must be repeatedly rubbed, the brush being frequently dipped in the mixture. When this has been done, rinse the article up and dov»'u in the mixture; then rinse it up and down in a tub of cold soft water, and without wringing or pressing, hang it where there is a current of air to drain and dry. Fasten a coat up by the collar, and as it dries shake it occasionally and pull it into its proper shape to prevent it from shrinking. AVhen perfectly dry, it is sometimes the case with coats that nothing more is needed; in 218 other cases it may be necessary to dampen the parts which look wrinkled, and either pull them out smooth with the lingers or press them with a warm iron, plac- ing a piece of bombazine or thick woolen cloth between the iron and the article. Finish bj thoroughly airing. For dark colored cloth garments, it is a good plan to add some Fuller's Earth to the Gall mixture. "When nearly dry, the nap should be laid the right way and the garment carefully pressed; after whicli, a brush moistened with a drop or two of Olive Oil, should be passed over it several times, which will give it a fine' finish. Garments cleansed in this manner, provided the directions be strictly followed, will look just as well as new. We have often seen it tried with unfailing success. 278-COLORED PANTALOONS. COLORED pantaloons look very well when washed as follows : Add one Beef Gall to about four gal- lons of fair warm water, and wash the pantloons in this mixture without using soap. "Without Avringing, hang them up to drain until partly dry, then lay them on a hard surface, and press them on the wrong side while slightly damp. 319 279 -CLEANSING GARMENTS V;iTH SOAP BARK. IN tropical countries there are trees bearing red saponaceous berries, wliich the inhabitants use as a substitute for soap in wasliing clothes; the bruised bark also produces a lather like soap, on being "agitated in wate-r. The detergent properties of Soap Bark are feuperior to soap, and it can be freely used on fine fabrics and delicate colors which would be injured by soap. So great is its value for cleansing purposes, that the ground bark is now an article of commerce and can be found in any drug store. It is admirable for cleaning cashmeres of delicate shades, silks and woolen goods; the greasiest coat collar, when other agents fail, can be perfectly cleansed by its use, and it will render the sorri- est old felt hat sailed with dirt and grease, as good as new. Soap Bark is prepared and used as follows: Dissolve a tablespoonful in a teacupful of boiling soft water. Any quantity in similar proportions, may be prepared and bottled for future use, nnd it is a good plan to always keep a bottle of it in the house. It is applied with a sponge, rubbing the article until it is saturated, and then rinsing in clear water. The solution is more effective when applied as hot as the hand can bear. It 220 can be freely used on any wliite goods, and is entirely harmless to the finest colors. Five cents worth of Soap Bark will renovate a gentleman's w^hole wardrobe. 280.-TO RENOVATE RUSTY BLACK CLOTH. DISSOLVE an ounce of Aniline Black in a bowlful of boiling water. First sponge the articles well with soap and hot water, rubbing the nap down with the sponge ; then sponge them all over with the Ani- line Dye, being careful to keep them smooth and to brush downward. In this simple manner, faded or rusty black clothes can be given a perfect black, and the color will not crock or rub off. 281.-T0 RAISE THE NAP ON CLOTH. WHEN cloth has worn glossy its original appear- ance can be restored by this method, or even where it has worn threadbare the nap may be raised. Soak the garment about an hour in cold water, which will swell the fibres and cause it to thicken. Now put it on a hard surface and rub the threadbare por- 221 tion with a half-Worn hatter's card, or a prickly thistle until the nap is raised. Hang it up to dry and with a stiff brush lay the nap the right way. 282.-SPRINGING PANTS. IT is well known tliat pants made by a regular tailor have a much superior set than when ^^made by a tailoress. The chief point of superiority is the perfect spring at the ankles, by which the p:int> curve out symmetrically and hang faultlessly over tlie shoes. There is no reason, however, wlij' a lady sliould not be able to accomplish this; it requires a little strength and that is about all. It may be done as follows, with an ordinary sad-iron. The front half on each leg only is sprung and the spring begins about seven or eight inches from the bottom. Fold the cloth in the length exposing the wrong side, and as the outside seam is farther in front than the inside seam have the fold a third nearer the outside edge, so that the spring maybe directly in front. Make the cloth quite damp and have the iron as hot as possible without scorching. Pressing tlio iron upon the cloth with the right hand, pull the cloth with the left u^ing considerable strength, and at the same time give the iron a twisting move- ment, until the required curve is sprung. By making 223 an experiment upon & piece of cloth it Avill be seen how readily cloth may 1)o sprung. Thi> CorniLi;a,teJ Cllo-Bing Iron (13,) is v.'ell adapted for springiui^' clot'.i, fur i:i tuj twisting process, the ridge-3 hold the clotli witliowt slipping. Cut after a good pattern and jiroperly sprung, pants made at home will set as elegantly a^ when made Ly the fashionable merchant tailor. 283.-PRESS1NG PANTS. NEW pants, no matter ho'.v good tiie material or how well made, soon draw up and become baggy at the knees. This difficulty may be easily remedied. Draw eacli leg over a narrow press board, dampen the goods, and press out t'le sag witli a hot iron, having an old cotton cloth between the material and the iron, to prevent scorching or glazing. After the pants have once drawn up and been pressed ont, the sags are not so liable to return. 284.~MAKING OLD CLOTHES NEW. T URNlI^G garments is an ingenious way of making them last a long time. Shabby coats, overcoats, 233 vests, pants, and .even old faded liats, v\-lien the elotli is reversible, may be readily turned and the result is a new article. There are large linns engaged in this business; cast-off clothing is bought up and after bein^'' skillfully turned is sold again as new goods, tlie most acute observer failing to detect the fraud. Now if you are liable to buy an old garment that has thus been made new, would it not be advisable to have the turn- ing done at home and receive the benefit of the econ- omy. Tlie process is very simple and tlie expense trifling. Take off the binding and separate the out- side cloth from the lining, then rip the seams apart and reverse the cloth, thus exposing the bright new side. No cutting or fitting is required, and it is only neces- sary to attach the cloth to the same lining again, sew on new binding and buttons, and the result is a bran new garment. The only care to be taken is in revers- ing the buttonholes, but this may be done so neatly that they will never show that they have been worked over; or the buttonholes may be sewed together and the buttons sewed above them and then new button- holes worked in the other side. Very frequently the wrong side has a different color, and when turned an intimate friend would admire the new suit. Twilled and basket goods and also blue flannel or otlier woolen goods that have a finish on the wrong side may be pro- fitably reversed ; and in a similar manner a soft felt 224 hat may be turned. This process i^ better than elean- ing or dyeing. Ladies are ever turning their wearing appare], wliy not treat gentlemen's clothes with the same prudent regard. Try it and the result will be astonishing. The great economy to be gained surely recommends this process. -i-^jo CHAPTER XIII 285.-REN0VATION OF CARPETS. TO most gentlemen house cleaning is associated with cold dinners and a grand uproar. ISTo doubt the ordeal is as great for ladies; and the methods in this department are presented with the confidence that they will be welcome. It is on such occasions that the city husband appreciates the amenities of city life, for in nearly every large city there are men whose sole occu- pation is the renovation of carpets. They are profes- sional carpet cleaners and do a thriving business. Under their skillful management the most soiled in- grain, tapestry, Brussels, or Turkish carpet is renovated, and no one would know but what it was a new carpet. They go to a dwelling, take up the carpet, thoroughly renovate it and place it on the floor again, looking like a carpet fi-csh from the store; the entire work being done in an incredibly short time. The secret of their success in making soiled carpets look so well is, that although the carpets are thoroughly washed and rinsed 236 they are at no stage of tlie operation allowed to become soaked through. The following is the process, a little modified to adapt it for home use. 286.--CARPET CLEANERS' METHOD, WHEN the carpet is taken up, hang it on a line or lay it on the grass and whip it first on one side and then on the other, with pliant whips until entirely free from dust. Have the floor thoroughly scoured and dried and tack down the carpet firmly. If the carpet is so much soiled as to require further cleaning proceed as follows. Take a pailfnl of cold spring water and put into it about three gills of Ox Gall; and take a second pailfnl of clear cold water and add sufficient Vinegar to produce a sour taste. Now with a soft scrubbing brusli, rub some of the Ox Gall Water upon the carpet and scour briskly, which will raise a lather; then wash the hither off with a sponge dipped in the Vinegar Water. To prevent the carpet from being soaked througli, scour only a yard S(|uare at a time. Frequentl'y change the Vinegar Water. As soon as the lather is removed rub the carpet with a clean dry cloth. When the washing is finished, open the windows to allow the carpet to dry more quickly. Any particularly dirty spots should be rubbed with 227 nearly pure Gall. A carpet treated in this manner will be greatly refreshed in colors, particularly the greens. 287-GREASE SPOTS. THE method employed by carpet cleaners for ex- tracting grease spots is very speedy and simple. Grate on the spots a thick layer of Potter's Clay, cover it with a sheet of brown paper and set on a warm iron. The heat of the iron melts the grease and the Potter's Clay ab>.orbs it^ and the powder can bo afterwards s.wept off. It may be necessary to repeat the process several times to extract all the grease. Care should be taken not to liave the iron too hot, try it first on a piece of white paper, if it turn the paper brown or scorch it in the least, it is too hot. 288-BORAX WATER. ANOTHER effectual way to extract grease spots from carpets is by the use of Borax AYater. Mix a little soap in a gallon of soft water and add an ounce of Borax. Wash the spots well with this solution, applying it with a piece of clean soft flannel, and the 228 gi'ease spots will soon disappear. If there are grease spots on the floor, remove tliem with Potter's Claj, (299), before the carpet is taoked down. 289™OIL ON CARPETS, WHEISTEYEII oil is spilt on carpets apply as soon as possible plenty of Wheat Flour or Whiting, wliieli will absorb the oil and keep it from spreading. If the oil is near tJie seams rip them apart and put Whiting on the floor under the carpet. Xext day sweep up all the Flour above and under the carpet, and if the oil has not entirely disappeared, again apply the Flour. 290.-MAGNESIA PASTE. ALMOST any kind of grease spots may be removed from carpets by Magnesia Fastc. Scrape and pound toget])(>r ]\ragnesia in the lump and Fuller's Earth, equal (juantities of each, and after the ingre- dients are well mixed, pour over them a quantity of boiling water, sufficient to convert them into a paste. Lay the past/> as hot as possible upon the grease spots and after it has remained about a day, and the compo- 239 sition has become dry, brush it off and it will be found that the spots have disappeared, (238). This method is valuable, especially for Brussels or carpets of thick texture. 291.-CARPETS SLIGHTLY SOILED. OFTEN Carpets that are but slightly soiled may be cleaned and brightened by this simple treatment. After the dHist has been thoroughly whipped out, spread the carpet on the clean dry floor and ta(Jv it down Fare some raw potatoes and grate them over the car- pet, then rub them about with a new broom, which process will refresh the carpet greatly. Let it become thorouglily dry before walking on it. 292.-TO PREVENT MOTHS IN CARPETS. ANY one of a benevolent disposition, who has ever, on house-cleaning day observed the prudent house- wife attentively examine the edges of carpets for moths, would surely wish that these little insects grew as large as bed bugs, so that such excessive straining of the eves miorht be avoided. 230 When carpets are taken up, if there is any appear- ance of moths, sprinkle powdered Brimstone on the floor, befor the carpet is laid down again, and it is a good plan to let it remain after the carpet is tacked down. Tobacco and Black Pepper are also much used for this purpose, and will effectually guard against moths. 293.-T0 PRESERVE CARPETS. IT is very advisable in laying down carpets, to first cover the floor with large sheets of paper, which will prevf^it the dust from rising between the boards, and where the floor is uneven, it will prevent the car- pet from being cut by the sharp edges of the flooring. By adopting this precaution a carpet will last much longer. Straw matting is better than straw to })lace underneath car])ets, as the matting is smooth and even and the dust v.-ill not sift through it. 294.-TRANSP0SING THE BREADTHS. THIS prudent plan of managing carpets is doubtless familiar to many ladies, but to others it may be a novelty. Certain portions of the carpet about the entry and around the hearth, which are the most nsed^ always wear rapidly, while the back breadths that are little used, remain as bright and crood as nov.-. nefore 231 the most exposed parts are too badly worn, it ia good policy to transpose the breadths and bring the unused portions into service. The whole carpet can be tliuti made to wear eTenl3'' and twice the usual service will be obtained. 295-STAlR CARPETS. STAIR carpets should always have a strip of paper placed underneath them. The strip should be placed just over the edges of each stair-step, as this is the place where the carpet generally first wears through. The friction of the carpet against' the boards underneath will be thereby lessened. The strijiS should be about four or five inches in breadth, and within an inch or two as long as the carpet is wide. This plan will preserve a stair carpet in good condition a much longer time than it would otherwise keep. A strip of old carpet answers better than paper. 296-SWEEPlNG CARPETS. PERSONS who are accustomed to use refuse tea leaves while sweeping the carpet and find that they leave stains, will do well to employ fresh cut grass in- stead. It is better than tea leaves for preventing dust and gives the carpet a very bright fresh look. Moist 233 Bread is also good. In the room of the sick, strew fresh cut grass and flowers cut in pieces or pulled apart, over the carpet before sweeping. They will give a sweet pleasant fragrance, quite agreeable tc the pa- tient, and thev will prevent the dust from rising. 297 -MANAGEMENT OF BROOMS, iY bestowing a little extra care upon brooms, ladies can coulinunlly receive the benefit expressed in the familiar adage, "a new broom sweeps clean.'' On every wa?!iing day, immerse the brooms for a few minute? iu boiling soap-suds, which process wiil render the broo.u-head pliantly tough, so tliat it will never cut the carpet. When brooms are not in use, ladies usually stand them against the wall, and the weight of the broom causes the broom straws to bend out of their proper shape. If they are always hung up by the handle, this trouble will be avoided. Managed in the above manner a broom vrill last much longer and always sweep like a new broom. 298.-FLOORS. IN some countries it is not customary to cover the floors with carpet. Throughout all the Southern States, the absence of carpets is especially noticeable; 283 many a county in tiic Sduth might be traversed and not a single carpet r^ecn even among tlie wealthiest classes. The tidy liousevrives of tho^e countries, how- ever, are as particular about keeping the floor of the best room clean and spotleb!^, as they would be about the choicest Brussels carpet. Nothing of course can excel a thorough scrubbing with soap and water to clean dirty floors, but there arc many substances, how- ever, like oil, grease and ink, wliich penetrate into the pores of tlie wood, and cannot be extracted with soap and water. To remove such stains a special treatment is required. 299.-0IL AND GREASE SPOTS. TO remove oil or grease spots i'rom floors, employ the following method. Take a quarter of a pound each of Fuller's Earth and Pearlash, and boil them in a quart of soft water, While the mixture is hot, lay some of it on the spots and allow it to remain about ten or twelve hours, at the expiration of which time, scour off the mixture M'ith sand and vrater. If a floor is badly covered with grease spots, it should be wash.ed over with this mixture the day before it is scoured. Fuller's Earth and Ox Gall boiled together, form a very j^owcrful cleansing mixture for fl.oors. Strong 234 Pearlash water mixed with sand, and rubbed on floors or tables stained with grease, is also considered one of tlie most effective means that can be used to extract grease, SOO.-INK, PAINT, VARNISH, &C. INK stains upon floors, and also stains produced bj any liquid containing coloring matter, can always be removed as follows: When soap and water will not affect these stains, wasli them thoroughly with very strong • Vinegar or salts of Lemon. Paint, varnish, &c., can be removed from floors by Spirits of Turpen- tine or chloroform. The several classes of stains in- cluded in this method can be removeil from carpets also by the use of the same agents. 301-TO KEEP FLOORS OF A GOOD COLOR. AN excellent way to scour floors and at the same time keep them of a good color, is the following: Mix together Lime one part; sand three parts, soft-soap two parts. Apply a little of this mixture to the floor with the scrubbing brush and rub thoroughly; then rinse with clean water and rub dry. This will also tcep away all sort of vermin. 233 302.-MAHOGANY COLOR FOR FLOORS. IT often happens that diuing-rooni, kitchen, and other floors are exceedingly troublesome, consequent upon repeated spilling of grease, and upon coiitiuued care and M'orry on the part of the tidj housewife, in striving to guard against such accidents. The finest hotels and most aristocratic families have rec(Mitly adopted an admirable plan of dressing floors, which give to them a rich brown or mahogany-like color, thus entirely doing away with spotting and scouring of grease spots. Take quarter of a pound of Burnt Umber to half gallon of Linseed Oil, and add a small quantity of Litharge, to act as a dryer. Mix the ingredients and heat to a boiling temperature, then while the prepara- tion is hot, rub it into the floor with a flannel cloth. If preferred a small (puintity of Spanisli Brown may be added, which will give a still brighter hue. If a a fine finish is desired, the floor may be occasionally wiped with a waxed brush or cloth. The above quan- tity of the dressing will be ample for a room of mode- rate size. A floor thus dressed should never be scoured with soap, sand, or any other scouring preparation whatever. When it becomes soiled by the settling of dust, (which is likely to be till repeated washings), merely wash it with skim milk, butter-milk, or even 236 dish water. This treatment of floors possesses several advantages: it is decidedly labor saving, as the floor never requires scouring — even if grease falls upon it there will be no spot; again., it is cconoinical, fur no soap need ever be applied. The prime object, l;o'.vc\er, is to give the floor the same elegant appearance tmd rich color possessed by old mahogany furniture. The dressing should be repeated at least once in twelve months. SOa-CLEANING STRAW MATTING. THAW matting may be readily cleaned and its color preserved by this treatment. Make a solution of Salt and soft water, using considerable salt, but have it completely dissolved. Rub the matting with a large course cloth, frequently dipping it in the solution; after which, the matting should be well wiped until dry. The use of the Salt will prevent straw matting from turning yellow. 304-CARE OF OIL CLOTHS. To clean oil cloths and keep them looking fresh, wash them once a month with skim milk and water, in equal proportions; then every three months 237 wash them in boiled Linseed Oil. Use very little oil, but rub it well in with a rag, and then polish with a piece of old silk. With this kind of treatment oil- cloths will last for years and always have a bright appearance. Never use a brush, or soap, or very hot water, as the paint will be thereby injured. 305 -OIL MARKS UPON WALL PAPER. THOUGHTLESS persons are quite prone to tilt back a chair and rest their heads against the costly papered wall of the parlor or drawing room ; and the invariable result is a conspicuous oil mark. Visitors children too, delight to pass their greasy hands over satin wall paper, to see if it really is as soft as it looks, or they try to pick of the gilt flowers. The mistress of the house views the mischief with dismay, but polite- ness keeps her silent. These oil marks may be removed however, as follows: Mix to the consistency of cream finely ground Pipe Clay with water. Put a layer of the creamy mixture upon the spots and let it remain imtil dry. It will dry by the following day, when the powder may be easily removed with a penknife or brush. The drying may be liastened by covering the mixture wnth a sheet of paper, and then applying for a few seconds, an iron only moderately warm. On using 238 India Rubber to remove the dust taken up by the grease, the paper will be found restored to its original whiteness and opacity. This simple method has proved highly successful, and was remarkably so in an instance where the folio of a ledger had exhibited the marks of candle grease and snuff for more than twelve months. ^ — ^-^ %? CHAPTER XIV, 306.-RENOVATION OF BEDDING AND FEATHERS. IT is a curious condition of our existence that about eight liours in every twenty-four, a third of a life- time, must be passed in repose. Then too, the scenes, sights, and sensations of dreamland are pleasanter, and ofttinies far more' thrilling or frightful than real ones. Nothing can excel a good bed for genuine luxury. What a sweet sense of comfort it imparts, when after the worry and labor of the day, its never failing aid is souglit to invigorate the fatigued brain or muscles, and liow rehictantly is tiie cosy nest among the soft feath- ers relinquished on cold mornings. Feather beds are iKMr-Iooms highly prized. Often they are transmitted from mother to daughter, and from grandara to pos- terity until they become nearly as cherished a family heritage as ancestral estates. Feather beds never 240 wear out, but with age and use the ticking becomes soiled and the feathers heavy and matted together; yet by proper renovation from time to time they will afford many generations comfort. A few methods are presented. Xo apology need be offered for their introduction in the Chemical Laundry Guide, for the value of such methods is shown by tlie premiums awarded them by societies devoted to the interests of science and art. 307.-RENEWAL OF FEATHER BEDS. IN cities there are establishments where feather beds are perfectly renovated by steam, but the process employed would be impracticable for home use. By the accompanying simple treatment, however, feather beds that have become soiled and heavy can be readily rendered clean, sweet, and light. At first sight, the process may appear to be detrimental, yet it is not only an easy method, but attended with perfect suc- cess. Without emptying the beds, thoroughly scour the ticking with a clean stiff brush and strong hot soap-suds ; then lay them on the roof of a shed or some other clean place where the rain will fall on them. In very dry weather, th.ey may be made wet 241 by several thorough Bprinklings witli a watering pot, but the wetting is much better effected by the rain. When thoroughly soaked, let them dry in tlie hot rays of the sun for six or seven consecutive days. Shake them up well and turn them over cxery day. If exposed to the night air they will become damp and then mildew, so they should bo covered during the night, for the idea is, after they are once soaked through, to have them continue to dry witiiout receiv- ing additional moisture. Tliis plan of washing the bed-ticking and feathers makes them very fresh and light. It is far easier than the usual mode of empty- ing the beds and washing the feathers separately, and it answers quite as well. Care must be taken to thoroughly air the bed before using it. a38.-CLEANSING FEATHERS. THE following method of cleansing feathers of their animal oil gained a premium from the English Society of Arts. To every gallon of clean water that is used add a pound of Quicklime. Stir the Lime and water well together, and when the undissolved Lime precipitates in a fine powder, pour off the clear Lime water for use. Put the feathers to be cleansed into a tul), and pour over them a sufficient quantity of 243 the solution to cover them about two inches, after they have been well stirred about therein, and allowed to settle. Wlien thoroughly moistened, the feathers will sink to the bottom, and should be allowed to thus soak for three or four days; then lay them on a sieve to drain off all the foul liquor. The feathers should be afterwards washed in clean water and dried upon nets, the meshes of which may be about the fineness of cab- bage nets. They should be shaken on the nets from time to time, and as they dry they will fall through the meshes and are to be collected for use. Plenty of air will be serviceable while they are drying. The process will be completed in about three weeks; and after being thus treated, the feathers will only need beating to free them from any dust which may have settled on them. 309-HAIR MATTRESSES. HAIH mattresses, even the most expensive ones, by nse soon become hard and uneven, and are then anything but comfortable. The reason why they get in this condition in so short a time is, tliat at manufac- tories where hair mattresses are made, the hair was never properly picked free from bunches. The hair is usually stored away in large quantities, where it be- 243 comes matted together in knots and bunches. In this condition it is made into mattresses, and although at first the mattress seems smooth and even, as soon as it sustains a continued weight, as a person Ijing upon it, tiie bunches become apparent. If a mattress that has become haru and dirty be subjected to the accompa. nying treatment, it will be rendered a better mattress than when first bought. Simply rip the ticking apart and wash it; then carefully pick the hair free from ])unches and let it reiriain in a dry airy place for seve- ral days. When the ticking is dry, fill it lightly with the hair and tack it together. The liair is not likely to again get in bunches. 310.-W ASHING BED FURNITURE. IN washing all sorts of heavy bed furniture it is a wise plan, before immersing the articles in water, to shake olF or beat out as much of the dust as possible, as thereby the labor of cleansing will be greatly do- creased. In the case of colors, and especially mixed colors, no Soda, Pearlash, or Washing Crystal should be used, as the colors might be injured. Mottled soap is the best to employ for these articles, and use plenty of soft water, not hot, but warm. On wringing out of the second washing water, dip each piece immediately 244 into cold hard water for finishing. Shake them out well and let them dry as quickly as possible. If it be desirable to starch them, the starch may be stirred into the rinsing water. 311.-HEAVY COUNTERPANES AND QUILTS. IN the case of very heavy cottons, counterpanes, quilts, itc, which to wash and wring in the usual way is very tiresome, a mode of scouring may be adopted with advantage. Cut into thin slices a pound of mottled soap and add a quarter of an ounce of Potash and an ounce of Pearlash ; then pour a pailful of boiling water over the mixture, and let it stand un- til the ingredients completely dissolve. Now put into the scouring tub a pailful or more of v arm water and a bowlful of the soap solution. Lay in the counter- pane and pound it well witli a clothes pounder, often turning the counterpane over in the tub. When this has been done, wring it across a hook or wooden peg, which manner of wringing is effected as follows. Swing the middle of the counterpane over the peg, turn the opposite ends of the article around each other, place a clean clothestick between them, and then 245 wring by twisting caronnd the stick. In this Wcaj the article may be wrung with ease and as dry as possible ; the liarder it is wrung witliout tearing it, the better. After this first scouring, pass the counterpane through a second liquor prepared like the first. Wring it out again and rinse in clear cold water. (The first and second liquors need not be wasted, but other cotton or woolen articles may be passed through them.) Now pour into the rinsing tub a sufiicient quantity of boil- ing water and add a small quantity of the soap solu- tion, just enough to produce a thiii lather; then add about three tablespoon fuls of liquid blue, and the acid of the blue acting upon the alkali of the Pearlash and soap will cause a slight fermentation or effervesencc. Stir this blue liquid w^ith a stick and immerse the counterpane. Again use the pounder about five min- utes and the counterpane will be colored a fine azure blue of light shade, but as it dries in the sun and M-ind the blue mostly disappears, leaving a brilliant white. 312.-BED COVERS IN RELIEVO OR EMBOSSED WORK. BED furniture of embossed patterns, or ornamented with prominent flowered figures, or fashioned in 246 relievo or raised work, require a special treatment in ironing, or else tlie embossed and relievo work will be all pressed together and the prominent portions apt to become glazed. In fact, they onght not to be sub- mitted at all to the usual process of smoothing, but should be folded while quite damp as in (313), then laid between two clean boards or table leaves, a heavy weight placed above, and in this position allowed to dry. Treated in this way the embossed pattern will have a clear outline. 313.-IRONING AND FOLDING SHEETS, BED SPREADS, &C. THE following method of folding sheets, counter- panes, and bed spreads allows the articles to be conveniently spread over the bed, and in the case of outside bed spreads, the creases made by the folds will disappear. It is the plan used by the soldiers of the French army for folding army blankets. It is unneces- sary to iron but one side, and the proper side to iron is usually the right side, but sometimes when the counterpane is of a choice design of flowers or raised work, it is best to apply the iron to the wrong side. Beo-in by folding the article lengthwise with the sur- 247 face that is to be ironed on the inside; then take tlie outer edges and bring tliem even with the middle crease, tlnis exposing for ironing half of the surface that was folded in, a breadth above and a breadth underneath. After both of these breadths are ironed, bring over the newly formed creases even with the middle crease, and two new breadths will be exposed for ironing, one above and the other underneath. After ironing these new breadths, reverse the middle crease, which will bring the last formed creases even, and when the unironed portion thus exposed above and underneath is smoothed, one surface of the article will be ironed and properly folded lengthwise. Now fold it crosswise and bring the outer ends even with the mid- dle crease, and the ironing and folding of the bed spread will be completed. 314.-BED BUGS. THE discussion of the renovation of beds and bed- ding cannot be more appropriately dismissed than by presenting a bed bug exterminator. History does not record the time when man was first annoyed by bed bugs; so their advent is a matter of speculation. They can hardly be of ancient origin, however, for they 248 would surely have been included in the plagues that were sent to make the hard heart of Pharoah relent. The presence of chinches is usnally regarded as an index of filth and careless housekeeping, yet such is not always the case, however. In large cities especially, nearly every family is troubled with these little pests. The walls and floors of houses contain millions of them, and unless the greatest precaution is taken they will not remain there, but sally forth on nightly forages. Again, the former occupants of a house may have loft them, and wlicn discovered by the tidy honsewife she has "conniptions." There may also be imported cases but it would hardly be convenient to place a quaran- tine upon visitors. By stringent measures, however, the enemy may be vanquished. 3I5.-TO DESTROY THEM WHEN IN THE WALLS AND FLOOR. BED bugs may be totally annihilated when in the walls and floors by the fumes of burning Sulphur. Close tightly every crack, tire-place, window and door of the room, then for several honrs let Brimstone burn on Charcoal in an iron kettle. Afterward thoroughly air the room. This plan will also effectually destroy cockroaches. 249 316.-T0 KEEP THEM AWAY FROM THE BEDS. THE most successful substance that can be employed for driving away chinches is Quicksilver. It can- not be applied by itself, but requires a vehicle or menstruum to convey it. It is frequently mixed with Lard, but the "Whites of Eggs are much superior, for a mixture of Quicksilver and Eggs will not in the least injure the furniture. To the Wliites of four or five Eggs add about a tablespoonful of Quicksilver, and cream the whole well together. Be sure to add the Quicksilver before beating the Eggs. Apply the mix- ture with a feather wherever they " most do congre- gate." Tansy strewn over the slats or sacking bottom of the bed is very eifectual for driving them away. Filling the crevices of the bedstead with Putty, or if old, painting or varnishing it, will often keep them 317.-SPIRITS OF NAPHTHA. SPIRITS of Naphtha rubbed with a small painter's brush into every part of the bedstead is a quite 250 Biire way of freeing it from bugs. The mattress and binding of the bed should be examined and the same process applied there, as they generally harbor more in these parts than in the bedstead. Five cents worth of Naphtha is sufficient for one bed. ^*fS 318.-EXPLANATION OF INDEX. THE General Index has been arranged with a view of making it of the most convenience possible for ready reference. It will be readily seen by glancing over its columns, that the promise of the Chemical Laundry Guide has been fulfilled : — tluit there is scarcely an article of any material that admits of wash- ing or renovating, but what has been considered; that there is hardly a method or process employed by the professional Launderer that has not been presented. The numbers in the Index, as well as the numerals throughout the book, refer to the numbers of the meth- ods, and not to the page numbers. The m.ethods are ar- ranged alphabetically; and when any reference is sought, refer to the noun representing the desired process, or to the name of the material under treatment, and not to qualifying words, for examples ; if it be desirable to raise the plush of velvet, a suitable method is given under Velvets ; if point lace is to be renovated, refer to Laces; if a wine stain is to be extracted, the process will be found in the column of Stains. The Index, however, 352 is very complete and difficult}' in finding any method will rarely happen. Each chapter too, prevents a dis- tinct department of skillful laundry work. Whenever any delicate laundry experiment is proposed, or when a difficult laundry operation would be of advantage but is deemed perhaps impossible, it always will be profitable to refer to the Chemical Laundry Guide. 319-GENERAL INDEX. Advantages of Corrugated Glossing Iron 14 Alpacas — Oriental Method of Washing 172 Alpacas — Treatment of 164 Aniline Blue 61 Antimacassars — Ironing 230 Applying Starch to Shirts 8 Aromatic Herbs 128 Bedding — Renovation of. 306 Bed Bugs 314 Bed Bugs — To destroy in Walls and Floors 315 Bed Bugs — To keep away from Beds 316 Bed Covers in Relievo or Embossed Work 312 Bed Furniture — Washing 310 Beds— Renewal of Feathers 307 Bed Spreads — Folding and Ironing 313 Beetles — To keep away from Linen 130 254 Benzoin — Ctiution in Using 213 Benzoin Stains — To remove 212 Black Reviver — For Silks and Leather 219 Blankets— Ironing Woolen 186 Bleach — For Brown Sheeting 39 Bleach— For Fade:l Articles 174 "Bleach"— Laundry 39 Bleaching AVhlto Goods — German Method 40 Bleaching Wool 195 Bleaching AVoolens and Flannels 191 Blond Lace— To Revive 233 Blond Lace— To Wash 232 Bine Anihnc 61 Bl ue— Chinese Solu able 62 Blueing Clothes 60 Bobbinets— Starch for 28 Bombazet — Treatment of 171 Bombazine — Treatment of 164 Book Muslin— W^ ashing 171 Broad Cloth— Cleaning 277 Brocatello Tapestry 226 "Broke Water"— Method of Preparing 51 Brooms — Man agemen t of 297 C Calicos — Treatment of 164 Cambrics — Treatment of. 171 255 Cainbrics — A\''asliing — Oriental Method 172 Care of Lin en 127 Care of Linen — An Agreeable Perfume 131 Care of Linen — Disinfecting 136 Care of Linen — Lavender Scent Bag 129 Care of Linen — Laying away Summer Goods 133 Care of Linen — Marking Articles 131 Care of Linen — To keep away Moths, &c 130 Care of Oil Cloths 304 Care of Sad-Irons 21 Care of Shirt Board 12 Carpets — Renovation of 285 Carpets — Borax 288 Carpets — Carpet Cleaners' Method 283 Carpets — Carpets slightly Soiled 291 Carpets — Grease spots 287 Carpets — Magnesia Paste 290 Carpets— Oil on Carpets 289 Carpets — Stair 295 Carpets — Sweeping 296 Carpets— To Preserve 293 Carpets — To prevent Moths 292 Carpets — Transposing the Breadths 294 Chintzes — Treatment of 164 Chocolate Stains 100 Clay Stains — Red Shale and Clay 121 Clothes — Assorting 59 256 Clothes Lines — To Preserve 24 Clothes Pins~To Preserve 24 Clothing — Gentlemen's 270 Clothing — Cleaning with Soap Bark 279 Clothing — Cleaning Woolen 1 89 Clothing — Cleansing Broadcloth 277 Clothing — Colored Pantaloons 278 Clothing— General Stain Method 276 Clothing — Grease Spots 271 Clothing— Making Old Clothes New 284 Clothing— Pearlash and Lime Liquid 272 Clothing — Pressing Pants 283 Clothing — Springing Pants 282 Clothing— To Raise the Nap on Cloth 281 Clothing— To Remove Acid Stains 273 Clothing — To Remove Alkaline Stains 274 Clothing — To Remove Paint and Wax Stains 275 Clothing— To Render Water-Proof. 33 Clothing— To Renovate Rusty Black 280 Coffee Stains 100 Collars — Construction of. 163 Collars— Different Styles of. 162 Collars — Molding or Twisting 17 Collars — Raised Embroidery and Flowered 42 Collars — Starching 9 Colored Articles — Starch for 29 Color of new goods rendered Permanent 170 257 Colors — Oriental Method of Washing 172 Colors — Printed Goods of Delicate 164 Colors — To Set Various 167 Colors— Yegetable 58 Contents 4 Corrugated Glossing and Molding Iron 13 Corrugated Glossing Iron — iVd vantages of. 14 Corrugating Glossing Iron — Care of ... = .. 20 Corrugated Glossing Iron — How to Operate 15 Cotton — Stains on , 91 Counterpanes — Ironing and Folding 313 Counterpanes — To Wash Heavy 311 Crape 228 Crape Scarf — To Wash a 246 Crape — To Restore Rusty Italian 244 Crape— To Restore Stained Black 243 Creamy Tint of Laces 237 Crotchet — Ironing 230 "Crutching"— Toilet Soap 85 Cufis — Molding or shaping 17 Cuffs — Starching 9 13 Damask Tapestry 226 Disenfecting Apparel — Sure Method 136 258 Elderly Gentlemen's Shirt — Cutting and Making. ..159 Embroidering New Linen 42 Embroidery — To Iron 42 Explanation of Index 318 Extra Fine Gloss 16 Family Eight 1 Feather Beds — Renewal of ,307 Feathers — Cleansing 308 Feathers — Renovation of. 306 Filtering AVater through Charcoal 46 Filtering AVater through Spongy Iron 47 Fire-Proof — To Render Garments 137 Flannels 176 Flannels.— A Quick Method for Bleaching 191 Flannels— Hot Suds for 183 Flannels — 1 roning Red 185 Flannels — Shrinking. 180 Flannels— To Produce a Beautiful AViiite 190 Flannels — To Remove Grease from 177 FlanneJs — To Restore the Glossy Finish of 192 Flannels— To AA^ish Red 189 Flannels — Abashing Choice 184 Floors 298 259 Floors — To Ilemore Ink, Paint, Tarnish, &e 300 Floors — Mahogany Color for 302 Floors— Oil and Grease Spots 299 Floors — To Keep of Good Color 301 Flour Starch— To Make Good 27 Folding Shirts — Laundry Style 19 Folding Table Linen 45 French Chalk 103 French Scouring Drops 199 Fruit Stains on Linen and Cotton 93 Furs — Management of. 205 Furs — Sable, Chincliilla, Squirrel, and Fitch 266 Furs — Stretching 2G8 Furs— To Keep away Moths 2C9 Furs — White, Ermins, Minever, &c , 2G7 Gauze— To Gloss and Finish 249 General Index 319 Gentlemen's Clothing 270 Ginghams— Oriental Method of AV ashing 172 Ginghams — Treatment of 1 64 G loss— Extra Fine 10 Glossing Iron— Corrugated Glossing and Molding... 13 Glossing Iron. How to Operate 15 Glossing Linen 6 Glossy Finish of Woolens and Flannels 192 m Glue Starch 30 Grease Spots 122 Grease Spots of Long Standing 178 Grease — To Preserve 67 Giii Pure D'Art — Lace — L'oning 230 Gum Arabic Starch 28 Handkerchiefs — Folding and Ironing 45 Handkerchiefs — AVrinkles in Silk 251 Hats, Felt— To Kenovate with Soap Bark 279 Holders for Sad-Irons 23 Honey Mixture 221 Hose — Lamb's Wool 1 94 Hose— To Whiten Flannel or Woolen 193 Hose— Washing Silk 224 I Indelible Ink 134 Indelible Ink — Formula for Making 135 Ink Spots— To Pemove 102 Introduction to Fine Laundry Work 5 Iron and Starch White Yests 41 Ironing and Folding Table Linen 45 Iron Kust— To Eeniove 101 Isin o-lass Starch 31 Javelle "Water 57 Kid Gloves ,257 Kid Gloves — French .260 Kid Gloves — Ganleine 263 Kid Gloves— Opera Kids of Light Shade 262 Kid Gloves — Perfnine for 132 Kid Gloves — Perfume for 264 Kid Gloves — Stains on 258 Kid Gloves— To Clean without AYettmg 261 Kid Gloves— Washing 259 L Laces 228 Laces — Creamy Tint 237 Laces — Curtains Laundrjing 43 Laces — Curtains Laying Away 133 Laces — Fine Thread 234 Laces — L'oning 230 Laces — Ironing Fme 231 Laces — Magnesia and French Chalk for 238 Laces — Parisian Method of Washing Point 235 Laces — Perfume for Delicate , .132 Lace&— Reviving Blond 233 263 Laces — Silver and Gold 340 Laces — Sugar Sizing for 236 Laces— To Clear Starch 229 Laces— To Wash Black 239 Laces— To Wash White Silk or Blond 232 Lace Yeil— To Wash a Black 242 Lace Veil— To Wash a White 241 Lamas — Treatment of 1 64 Lamas — Washing 171 Lamas — AVasliing — Oriental MethoJ 172 Laimdrj " Bleach " 38 Lavender Scent Bag 129 Lawns — Starch for 28 Lawns — Treatment of , 1 64 Lawns — Washing 171 Lawns — Washing — Oriental Method 172 Leather — Black Reviver for 220 Lemon — Essential Salts 104 Linens — Care of 127 Linens — Glossing Linens — Laying Away for Summer .....133 Linens — Marking 134 Linens — Stains on 91 Linens— Suits, Color and Lustre 44 Linens — To Bestore Scorched 126 Linens— To Whiten Yellow 37 Lye— To Make Good 66 268 IM Mahogany Color for Floors = 302 Matting— To Clean Straw 303 Mattresses — Hair , 309 Merinoes — Treatment of 16 i Merinoes — Washing 1 71 Merinoes — Washing Oriental Method ..... = 1 72 Mildew— To Extract.. 107 Milk Stains ..114 Modern Shirt Cutting and Making 144 Molding Collars and Cuifs 17 Moldcr — How to Operate 18 Molding Iron 13 Moths from Carpets 292 Moths from Clothes 130 Moths from Furs 269 Mourning Dresses 243 Mousse do Laines— Treatment of. 164 Mousse de Laines — Washing 171 Mousse de Laines — Washing — Oriental Method 172 Muslins— Congree Starch for 34 Muslins— To Shrink 140 Muslins— To Starch 35 Muslins— To Thicken and Stren£cthen 36 £64 IV Napkins — Ironing and Folding 45 Napkins — Stained .... 99 Napkins — Stains on AVliite 123 Napkins — Vegetable Stains 92 Naphtha for Bed Bugs 317 Nap— To Raise on Cloth 281 Nap — To Raise on Velvet 255 O Oil Cloths— Care of. 304 Oil Marks upon Wall Paper 305 Ox Gall— To Preserve 168 Ox Ga]i Soap 83 Paint — To Extract from Any Material 210 Pants — Pressing > 283 Pants — Springing 282 Patterns — Cutting Shirt 138 Percales — Treatment of. 171 Percales — French Method of Washing 173 Percales — Oriental Method of Washing 172 Perfume for Clothes 131 Perfume for Kid Gloves 132 265 Perfume for Kid Gloves 264 Piques — Treatment of. 171 Piques — French Method of Washing 173 Piques— Oriental Method of Washing 172 Piques — To Starch , 35 Plaid Shawls— To Wash —Scotch Method 187 Plush on Velvet — To Raise 255 Potato Liquor 218 Potato Starch 26 Preface 3 Preparing Starch — Laundry Method 7 Printed Goods of Delicate Colors 164 Printed Goods — Washing. Oriental Method 172 Printed Table Covers 175 Prints — Agents for Special Colors 169 Prints — General Hints for Ironing 166 Prints— General Hints for AVashing 165 Prints— French Method of Washing 173 Prints— Oriental Method of Washing Bright 172 Prints— To Bleach Faded Articles 171: Prints — To Render Colors Permanent 170 Prints— To Set Various Colors 167 Prints— AVashing Goods of Delicate Colors 171 Purchasing Contract 2 Quick Method of Bleaching Flannel 191 260 Quilts — To "Wash and Wring Heavy 311 li Kibbons 228 EibbonB 24T Ribbons Creased 250 Ribbons — Isinglass Sizing for 240 Ribbons — Perfume for 1S2 Ribbons Soiled 24S Ribbons— To Stiffen 252 Ribbons — Wrapping 253 Rose Pink 63 "Rough Dry" — Laying Away Summer Goods...... 133 Rust Eaten Sadirons 22 S Sad-irons— Care of «•• 20 Sad-irons— Encrusted with Oxide ". 22 Sad-irons — Holders 23 Sad-irons— Scouring 21 Satins 228 Satins— Colored or White— To Wash 217 Satins— Detergent Fluid 202 Satins— Treatment of........ 247 Satins— To Clean White and Flowered 256 Satins— To Extract Grease from 254 867 Scarf— To Wash a China Crape 246 Scarf— Wrinkles in Silk 251 Shawls, Plaid— Scotch Method of Washing 187 Shawls— Washing Silk ..225 Sheeting— To Bleach 39 Shirt Board— Self- Adjusting 10 Shirt Board— Care of.... 12 Shirt Board — How to Use 11 Shirts — Improved Method of Cutting and Making... 138 Shirts— Selection of Material for 139 Shirts — Shrinking tlie Muslin , 140 Shirts — Common Faults in the Fit of 141 Shirts — Seven Measurements 142 Shirts — Dimensions of Medium Sized 143 Shirts — Modern. — Front Breadth .144 Shirts— Shoulder Measuremen t 145 Shirts— The Shield Bosom 146 Shirts — Back Breadth 147 Shirts— The Yoke 148 Shirts — Joining the Breadths 149 Shirts— Neck Band 150 Shirts — Sleeves 151 Shirts— Cuffs 152 Shirts — Inserting the Sleeves 153 Shirts — Opening in Fron t 1 54 Shirts— Working ..............155 Shirts, Working— Back Breadth 156 308 Shirts— The Yoke of Working .....157 Shirts — Joining the Breadths of "Working 158 Shirts — Elderly Gentlemen's 159 Shirts — The Bosom 160 Shirts— To Strengthen the Bosom ,1G1 Shirts— Collars ...102 Shirts — Construction of Collars .,103 Shirts — A Pleasure to Iron 10 Shirts — Laundry Style of Folding.. 19 Silks — Renovation of 1 96 Silks — Acid Stains on Yiolet 205 Silks— Aqua Ammonia for 203 Silks — Benzoin Stains on 212 Silks— Black Reviver for 219 Silks— Chloroform for 204 Silks— Detergent Fluid for 202 Silks— Egg Method for Cleaning 201 Silks— French Chalk 198 Silks — French Scouring Drops 199 Silks — Honey Mixture for Cleansing 221 Silks— How to Use the Black Reviver 220 Silks Lightly Soiled 223 Silks— Old Pitch, Varnish, or Oil Stains 211 Silks— Ox Gall for 206 Silks — Potato Liquor for 218 Silks — Preserving the Colors of 216 Silks — Requisite Conditions in Renovating ......215 269 Silks— Spermaceti, Olein, and Sterin Stains on 208 Silks — To Kemove Grease from 197 Silks — To Tiemove Grease from 200 Silks — To Remove Paint from 210 Silks — To Remove Resin Spots from 209 Silks — To Remove Wax Stains from 207 Silks — To Renovate with old Kid Gloves 222 Silks— To Wash 214 Silks — Washing 217 Silks— Washing Silk Shaws 225 Silks— Washing Silk Stockings 224 Silks— Washing Silk Tapestry 226 Silks— Worsted and Silk Reps 227 Soap Bark for Cleansing Purposes 279 Soaps of Domestic Manufacture 64 Soaps — Making Soft 65 Soaps— To Make Good Lye for 66 Soaps — To Preserve Grease for 67 Soaps — To Prevent Fatty Substances from Turning Rancid 68 Soaps— To Make Soft-Soap with Potash 69 Soaps— To Make Lye Soft 70 Soaps — Concentrated Lye for 71 Soaps — Labor Saving 72 Soaps — Turpentine 73 Soaps — To Convert Soft-Soaps into Hard 74 Soaps — Hard 75 970 Soaps — IIome-Made Caustic Soda 76 Soaps — Domestic Hard 77 Soaps — Concentrated Lye Hard 78 Soans— Hard White Tallow 78 Soaps — Cheap Family , 80 Soaps— Myrtle 81 Soaps — Chemical 82 Soaps — Ox G all 83 Soaps — Toilet 84 Soaps—" Crutching" 85 Soaps — Honey 86 Soaps — Mush 87 Soaps — Celebrated Windsor 88 Soaps — Glycerine 89 Soaps — Italian Honey 90 Springing Pants 282 Stains on White Linens and Cottons 91 Stains— Acid and Alkali 112 Stains— Acid and Tea 97 Stains — Aniline Red Magenta 118 Stains — Blood Stains of Lono; Standing; 116 Stains— Claret and Port Wine 96 Stains— Clay and Shale 121 Stains — Essential Salts of Lemon for 104 Stains — Fruit 93 Stains— Fruit and Old Wine Stains .'. 98 Stains — Grease Spots 122 271 Stains — Ink Spots 102 Stains — Ink or Iron Rust on Delicate Fabrics 103 Stains — lod i ne 117 Stains — Iron Rust 101 Stains — Iron Rust and Old Ink Spots ..105 Stains — Iron Rust — Sulpliide of Ammonia l()(j Stains — Method for Summer Use Ill Stains— Mildew 107 Stains — Mildew— Starch and Salt lOS Stains — Mildew — Chloride of Lime 109 Stains — Mildew —Oxalic Acid 110 Stains— Milk Ill Stains- -Nitric Acid 113 Stains— Non-Metallic 123 Stains on Napkins and Table Cloths 99 Stains — Perspiration 115 Stains — Process of Sulphuration 100 Stains — Scorclied Linen 126 Stains — Scouring Balls for General Use 121 Stains— Soot 119 Stains — Special Agents for Obstinate Cases 95 Stains — Stai n Mixtures 125 Stains— Tar, Pitch, Resin, Paint, &c 120 Stains — Vegetable Juices 92 Stains — Wine Stains in Linen 94 Starch — Applying to Shirts 8 Starches and Their Use 25 273 Starch — Congree for Muslins 34 Starch for Colored Articles 29 Starch — Gum Arabic 28 Starch— Glue 30 Starch — Isinglass 31 Starch — Laundry Method of Preparing 7 Starch— Potato 26 Starch— To Make Good Flour 27 Starch— To Starch Collars and Cuffs 9 Starch— "Water-Proof 32 Sulphuration — Process of 100 T Table Cloths Stained 99 Table Cloths— Stains on 123 Table Covers— Choice 175 Table Linen — Iron ins and Foldinnc 45 Tapestry — Damask and Brocatello 226 Toilet Soaps 84 Trimmings 228 Trimmings— To Stiffen Silk 252 Tub— Washing Wool 195 Veils— To Wash a Black Lace 242 Yeils— To Wash a White Lace 241 267 90 273 YelvetooTis ;../ 255 Velvets 228 Velvets— Chloroform for 204 Velvets— Detergent P'lnid for 202 Vel vets — Grease on '. J 1)0 Velvets— The Treutmcnt of 247 Velvets — To Extract Grease from 254 Velvets— To Raise the Pile on 255 Vests— To Starch and Iron White 41 Wall Paper — Oil Marks upon ....' 305 Washing - <:....■::■}}':^!.^^. ::: 4t> Washing Compound^ — French. . . :'.:'.'.'. .lil 56 Washing Compound'^-Javelle Wat6r... ;.!..... 57 Washing Crystals 52 Washing Crystals — Borax 55 Washing Crystal.^— -Detergent Fluid... ...........i. .v.. 54 Wasjiing Crystals-rr-Englisk Method ^. ...'.... ^^AiJlW 58 Water Hard y:.\.-i.X^i?:....^ ,.v..'J.:' 50 Water Hard — Method of Preparing " Broke Water". 51 Water Turbid — Popular Methods of Clearing 48 Water Turl>id — To Clear with Effffs and Vinegar... 49 Water-Proof— New pTcleess of Rendering Cloth 33 Water-Proof Starch .' 32 Water Stains on Black Crape 245 Wine Stains 04 274 AVoolen Clothes — To Clean ...188 Woolen Shawls — Scotch Method of Washing 187 AVoolens 176 Woolens — Black Stains on Scarlet 179 Woolens— Colored 182 Woolen — Spirits of Ammonia for 178 Woolens — To Remove Grease from 177 Woolens — Washing Choice 184 Woolens— White 181 Wool — Tub Washing and Bleaching 195 Working Shirt — Cutting and Making 155 Worsted Reps 227 Worsted— Table Covers 175 Wrapping Ribbons 250 Wrapping — White Satins .....253 Yellow Clay Stains 121 Yellow Sulphide of Ammonia 106 Yellow Linens — To Bleach 37 9^ V ♦ AT "^ • A '^ '" % ^-^"^ **" V* "* • • • ^v> * *> » * ' "Pa,. a** 5, 'o , * • A •ft '^..^' - HECKMAN BINDERY INC. ^^fJUN 90 wi^ N. MANCHESTER, LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 230 764 9 « !:ip;|