LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. e^upSv-V. Qmm¥ ilo.ia.T Shells. .:A^n^ UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. PRACTICAL GUIDE TO WHIST BY THE LATEST SCIENTIFIC METHODS WITH THE LAWS OF THE GAME BY FISHER AMES NEW YORK CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 1891 GvY\2.7- Copyright, 1890, bt CHARLES SCRIBNERS SONS. Press of J. J. Little & Co., Aster Place, New York. CONTENTS. PAGE I. — INTRODUCTORY . .... 1 II. — FORMATION OF TABLE, THE SCORE, AR- RANGEMENT OF HAND, ETC. . . . 4 ' The Score 4 Arrangement of Hand, etc. ... 5 III. — THE SUIT TO LEAD . . . . .7 Original Leads from Strong Suits . . 7 Original Leads from Weak Suits . . 9 Second and Later Leads . . . .11 Return Leads 13 IV. — THE CARD TO LEAD 15 Original Leads from Strong Suits . , 15 High Card Leads from Strong Suits . 16 Special Leads in Trumps . . . .20 IV Contents. Original Leads from Weak Suits Second Leads from Strong Suits Leads from Strong Suits in Detail Leads from Weak Suits in Detail Leads in Partner's Suit Special Leads .... V. — ^SECOND HAND Second Hand on High Cards Led Second Hand on a Low Card Led Second Hand Renouncing Table of Second Hand Play VI. — THIRD HAND .... Play op Third Hand Renouncing page . 20 . 22 . 24 . 27 . 28 . 31 33 35 38 40 42 46 VII. — GETTING RID OF CONTROL AND UNBLOCK- ING 48 VIII. — FOURTH HAND 51 IX. — THE PLAY OF SEQUENCES. DRAWING INFERENCES, ETC. The Play of Sequences 53 53 Contents. PAGE Drawing Inferences ..... 54 Table of Leads and Inferences . .54 X. — THE DISCARD 58 XI. — THE MANAGEMENT OF TRUMPS . . 61 The Trump Signal and Echo . . .61 Other Trump Plays 63 XII. — IN GENERAL . . . , . .67 THE LAWS OF WHIST 71 The Rubber 71 Scoring 71 Cutting 73 Formation of Table . . . . .73 Cutting Cards of Equal Value . . .74 Cutting Out 74 Entry and Ee-entry 75 Shuffling 76 The Deal 76 A New Deal 77 vi Contents. PAGE A Misdeal 78 The Trump Card .80 Cards Liable to be Called . . .81 Cards Played in Error, or not Played to a Trick 84 The Revoke 85 Calling for New Cards . . . .88 General Rules 88 ETIQUETTE OF WHIST 90 Dummy 91 Double Dummy 92 A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO WHIST. Introductory. The theory of modern scientific whist and the arguments upon which it is based are now so gen- erally and well known and understood that no re- statement of them is deemed necessary here. It is assumed that our readers are aware of the importance and advantage of the lead from the long suit, the best use of trumps for its establishment and bringing in, and the combination of partners' hands by the giving of accurate information by correct play. The object of this book is to give the rules and directions for play in the various contingencies of a hand, according to the best authorities, arranged in A Practical Guide to Whist. a convenient form for instruction and guidance. For this purpose all the authorities have been con- sulted and all valuable improvements of the ^* Amer- ican Leads " system adopted. The term ''American Leads " was given to the sys- tem by " Cavendish," out of compliment to Mr. N. B. Trist, of New Orleans, by whom it was originated. It has recently been greatly developed and improved by Trist, "Cavendish," and others into a complete, simple, and harmonious system, which has entirely revolutionized the game. Being founded on true whist principles, and clearly an advance on the old method, it is sure to commend itself to all thought- ful players and students of the game. Conventional plays which are founded on correct principles, as these arc, instead of making the game mechanical as some are disposed to think, really furnish better and fuller equipment and opportunities for the exercise of skill and judgment. The better partners are informed of the contents of each other's hands, the more complete and advantageous the combination ; and tlie new system gives much fuller and clearer information both as to the number and the character of the suit led from than the old. It also, to a con- siderable extent, does away with differences in leads between trumps and plain suits, which never seemed to be based on any very good reasons, and is, in general, more simple and reducible to rules. The plan adopted is to arrange the subject into its Introductory. 3 natural subdivisions, and give under each head all the rules, with brief reasons and the exceptions and special plays properly belonging to it, making, with the Laws appended, a handbook, or guide to play, as full and complete as possible, from the formation of the table to the end of tlie hand. There are ah'eady in existence many admirable treatises on the theory and philosophy of the game, and it is not intended to enter tlie same field here, but merely, as before stated, to furnish a practical guide to play. n. Formation of Table, The Score, Arrange- ment OF Hand, Etc. Partners are usually selected by cutting the cards, the two cutting the two lowest cards playing together against the other two. When five or six persons desire to play, all cut, and the four cutting the low- est cards make up the table, the other or others com- ing in at the end of the game, or rubber, as agreed, in the place of those of the four playing who, on a new cut, cut the highest cards. Partners may, however, be determined by agree- ment if preferred. The Ace is always low in cutting. The Laws in the Appendix give full directions in these matters of the formation of table, score, etc., but it is believed to be desirable to give a brief summary of them here. THE SCORE. The score may be kept in any manner previously agreed upon, either by rubber points, at short whist, in which the games are of five points, counting the lionors, or by games of five, or seven points, without counting the honors. Formation of Table, Etc. lu this country the preference seems to be in favor of not counting the honors ; and undoubtedly the hon- ors, as reckoned in short whist, have too great a pre- ponderance in the score. They cause, however, man}- interesting and critical positions and plays, and add to the variety of the game. The rubber i)oints are con- venient for keeping a record of points made and lost, but a record of games or points made and lost can also be kept by the other system. The method of scoring makes but little difference in the play ; but the style of play at short whist is somewhat more varied than at the game as played without the honors. ARRANGEMENT OF HAND, ETC. On taking up his hand, the player should count and sort it, each suit in regular order, and look it over carefully to form an estimate of its character and possibilities, and the best Avay of managing it. Almost every hand should, of course, be opened by an original leader, upon the theory of the establish- ment and bringing in of his long suit; but as, in practice, it is frequently impossible to carry out the theory, the play after the first round must depend upon the developments of the game. But every hand, whether strong enough to insure the success- ful carrying out of the theor}^, or so weak as to be of no service unless as auxiliary to partner's hand, should be carefully played for all it is worth. It is a convenient and useful arrangement, to place the suits in the same order in every hand, so that the A Practical Guide, to Whist. player can readily turn to the proper suit without un- necessarily distracting his attention from the board. There is no advantage in always putting the ti'ump suit in the same place ; on the contrary, it weakens the player's confidence in his memory, which is important in whist. III. ^ The Suit to Lead, original leads from strong suits. Lead first from your strongest suit. The choice of strong suits from which to lead first is as follows, in order of preference: 1. Lead from six or more trumps. With so many, the chance of your being able to ex- haust opponents is very strong, and you should not be deterred from leading trumps by the turning of an honor on your right, or by a decided advantage in your favor in the score. 2. Lead from five trumps. It is almost always best to lead trumps from five. The exceptions are as follows : a. With five low trumps, and no good cards in the plain suits. 6, With a decided advantage in the score, or only one trick needed to save or win the game. c. With an honor turned on your right, and a poor suit hand. 3. Lead from four trumps with the command of, or well-guarded high cards in, at least two plain suits. A Practical Guide to Whist. Especially if you have no loug plain suit. But it is sometimes better to open your most advantageous plain suit, as : a. With a decided advantage in the score. &. An honor turned on the right. 4. Lead from a plain suit of five or more,* or the best of two equally loug ones. This is the common opening long suit lead, unless with great strength in trumps. Such a suit may per- haps be established and brought in, or, at least, be useful in forcin<>' opponents and diminishing their trump superiority. The holding of Ace, Queen, at the head of the suit, should not prevent the lead from it. 5. Lead from four trumps, with three three-card plain suits. Especially if you have command of, or high cards well guarded in, plain suits. Little harm can be done by opening trumps with such a hand, even though the plain suits are weak. You can trump nothing, and perhaps maj^ help to establish partner's suit, and ena- ble him to bring it in. But it is sometimes as well not to open the trumps, as : «. When they are very low in rank. 6. An honor is turned on the right. c. You have an advantage in the score, or but one card needed to save or win the game. 6. Lead from your best four-card suit. That containing the highest cards. But, when the only long suit contains no high cards, nothing for The Suit to Lead. instance above the eight, it is usually better to resort to a forced lead from a weak suit, as explained below. A strong trump suit, as above indicated, is the most advantageous to open. But the character of the trump turned, the state of the score, and the general character of the hand, are important ele- ments to be considered in determining whether or not to open with a trump lead. With a great advan- tage in the score, or but one card needed to save or win the game, a more conservative game is usually played. So, when you hold a tenace over an honor turned on the rigbt, it is sometimes of importance to have the lead come to instead of from you, and therefore a plain suit is the best to ojDen first. Other contingencies will occur to the good player, where a trump lead must depend upon his judgment in view of all the conditions. But, generally, with strength in trumps, the turning of an honor on the right should not prevent the lead of trumps, if otherwise riglit, nor should a trump lead be made from moderate strength only, merely because an honor was turned on the left. ORIGINAL LEADS FROM WEAK SUITS. "When the long plain suit is of four low cards only, and you have no strength in trumps, lead from your best three-card suit. The one which contains the highest cards. This is - called a '* forced lead." It may strengthen partner's 10 A Practical Guide to Whist. suit, and, at least, is not likely to do harm. Partner's hand and the fall of the cards will soon show him the character of the suit led from, and he will not be deceived into believing that you are long in it. For this purpose the best suits arc those headed by two or more high cards in sequence — as Queen, Knave — Knave, Ten— or by a Knave, or Ten. If partner has previously led, it may be better to return his suit, un- less it was won cheaply on the first round ; or to lead through a"suit opened by left-hand adversary, especially if fourth hand seems to be weak in it. With a poor hand and desperate score, lead trumps from three or less. Unless partner proves to be strong in trumps and desirous of having them led, there is no chance of sav- ing the game. With a desperate score, if your adversaries opened the hand with a trump lead, lead first from your weakest suit. The highest card of it ; your partner should finesse deeply in the suit, and, on his return lead, should lead the highest of his weakest suit, in which you should also finesse deeply. In this way possibly some defence can be made, keeping your high cards as long as pos- sible. If your long suit was opened by your right-hand adversary, lead from your most advantageous three- card suit. There is, of course, no use in leading up to the strong hand, unless you have the entire control of the The Suit to Lead. n suit, and partner may and very probably will lead the suit through the original leader to your advantage. If partner is out of the suit, lead it for him to trump, unless he has indicated trump strength, or unless you are very weak in trumps. If left-hand opponent can trump the suit, lead trumps unless very weak in them. If an opponent has signalled for trumps, or otherwise indicated strength in trumps, lead the suit for partner to trump even though weak yourself in trumps. SECOND AND LATER LEADS. On a second lead continue your suit. It is disadvantageous to change the suit, unless : a. It is likely to be trumped by an adversary who has not indicated trump strength. 5. Partner is weak and right-hand adversary prob- ably strong in it, and you have not the best card of it. c. In trumps, one of the adversaries is out of trumps. d. You hold the master-card of partner's suit; in which case you should generally lead it at once to get rid of the control and clear the suit for him. If, after the first round, you are obliged to change the suit, you may properly : 1. Lead from four trumps, to protect your suit from being trumped ; 2. Lead from your best three-card suit ; 3. Return partner's suit, if he has led ; 4. Lead a suit opened by left-hand opponent, especially if fourth hand appears to be weak in it ; 12 A Practical Guide to Whist. 5. Lead a singleton, if weak in trumps. A singleton should 7i£ver be led on an original lead, and it is very seldom advisable at any time, except as above indicated, as some one must be long in the suit and will lead it. The lead gives indication of weak- ness, oi course, but not necessarily more so than many other plays. # If your or partner's suit is established, lead trumps from four. Even from three, if opponents have not indicated trump strength, and you have a sure card of re-entry in another suit. But do not lead them for your part- ner's established suit, unless you can get in and lead it to him later. If opponents have indicated trump strength, force them to trump. If they are strong in trumps there is little chance of bringing in your or partner's long suit ; but it may at least be useful to reduce their trump superiority by forcing them to expend their trumps upon it. But do not lead a suit which both adversaries are out of, for the one who is weak in trumps will trump, and the one who is strorg in trumps will discard losing cards of plain suits. Continue a trump lead from strength until one of the adversaries renounces. But, if right-hand opponent is out, it is sometimes well to continue the lead through left-hand opponent to draw his best trump or give the trick to partner with a comparatively low trump. The Suit to Lead. 13 Lead trumps from less than four to stop a cross- ruff. A cross -ruff is very effective in trick making and often defeats very high cards, and it should be stopped as soon as possible if against you. Remaining with the best trump, the only other being in the hand of an opponent, draw the losing- trump. But not if neither j-ou nor partner can lead an estab- lished suit. If opponent's suits are established and yours not, it is better to force out the losing trump with a card of your or partner's suit, which will also help to clear and establish the suit. Force partner if you are strong or he is weak in trumps. But if you are yourself weak in trumps, and have no indication as to whether partner is weak or strong in them, it is usuall}'^ best not to force him, unless an adversary has shown trump strength. If you are both weak, or if you can estabUsh a cross-ruff, it is well to force him. Lead a thirteener to force the fourth hand. If he is strong in trumps ; especially when he holds the last or best trump. But not if you know him to be weak. RETURN LEADS. Return partner's suit at once with the master-card if you have it ; otherwise lead your own suit, if it is a n:ood one, before returnins: his. 14 A Practical Guide to Whist. You should help partner all you can in his suit by getting rid of the control of it, and getting high cards in it out of his way, so as to clear and establish it for him. But if you are stronger in the suit than he is, or have so strong a hand as to warrant your insisting on directing the play, you would be justified in retailing the best card of his suit for re-entry, and instead of returning his, opening your strong suit, or leading trumps. Return partner's trump lead, or lead to his trump signal, at the first opportunity. The responsibility for the hand belongs with one who makes an early trump signal or lead, and his part- ner should co-operate with him and carry out his plan to the best of his ability. A late trump signal or lead, however, does not necessarily indicate very great strength in trumps, and has not the same obligatory force as an early one has. But still, it should be responded to promptly. IV. The Card to Lead, original leads from strong suits. The proper card to lead from a strong suit depends upon the character and number of the suit. High cards are led generally, to take the trick and escape being trumped, possibly to catch other high cards in hands of opponents, or force out higher and pro- mote those held to a higher rank ; and also, to indicate the number and character of the suit. Low cards are led when it is best to reserve such high cards as are held until others are drawn out, and gain the command later ; and also, by the rank of those subsequently played, to indicate the num- ber led from. No general rules can be given to cover all cases of leads, or even a large proportion of them. Each combination requires a particular card to be led from it, as given in the statement of leads, below. The only general rules are : 1. Lead the lowest of a head sequence of three, 1 6 A Practical Guide to Whist. fourth best of a head sequence of four or more, in a suit of five or more, including the King. The old rule, to lead the highest of a head sequence, does not now apply except in two cases ; a sequence to the King, with only four in suit, and a sequence to the Queen, with four or more in suit. Formerly the lowest of a head sequence was generally led in trumps ; now the rule applies to both trumps and plain suits. 2. When a low card should be led, lead the fourth best of those held. Showing three higher cards held : the number of the suit being indicated by lower cards subsequently played, if not on the first round, as it often will be to a care- ful observer. High cards are led from strong suits as follows. HIGH CARD LEADS FROM STRONG SUITS. Ace is led from, 1. Ace, King, and three (in trumps five) or more lower, not including Queen. 2. Ace, Queen, Knave, and one or more lower. 3. Ace, Queen (or Knave), and three (in trumps five) or more lower. 4. Ace, and four (in trumps six) low cards. The Ace indicates a suit of five at least, unless fol- lowed by Queen, which shows four only ; or by the Ten, in which case the suit may be of four or more. The Card to Lead. 17 King is led from, 1. Ace, King, Queen, Knave, without others. 2. Ace, King, Queen, and one lower. 3. Ace, King, and two low ; in plain suits (in trumps lowest). 4. King, Queen, Knave, Ten, without others. 5. King, Queen, Knave, and one lower. 6. King, Queen, and two low ; in plain suits (in trumps lowest). The King indicates Ace, or Queen, perhaps both, and a suit of four at the most. Queen is led from, 1. Ace, King, Queen, and three or more lower, not including Knave. 2. King, Queen, Ten, and two or more lower. 3. King, Queen, and three (in trumps five) or more lower, not including Knave. 4. Queen, Knave, Ten, and one or more lower. The Queen indicates King, and perhaps Ace, with a suit of five or more ; or Knave, Ten, and one or more lower. The first round will probably show which. NOTE. — The lead of Queen from head of a sequeRce is given here out of deference to the majority of the authorities on the subject. But it would seem to be more in accordance with the principles of the American leads system, as well as simpler and more consistent with the other leads from high head sequences, in five-card suits, that from the sequence of Queen, Knave, Ten, at head of a suit of five or more, the Ten, or lowest of the sequence should be led, as it is in all the other cases. By so doing, a rule could be formulated to cover all cases of leads from such se- 2 A Practical Guide to Whist. Knave is led from, 1. Ace, King, Queen, Knave, and one or more lower. Even though holding the Ten also, as it is best for the sake of uniformity not to go below tlie fourth best in leading ; and with such strength it is not important whether Knave or Teu is led so far as making tricks is concerned. The next card led shows whether only five or six or more of the suit were held originally. 2. King, Queen, Knave, and two or more lower not including the Ten. The Knave indicates King and Queen, and a suit of five or more. The old lead of Knave from head of a sequence is now abandoned in strong suits ; but in weak suits it is still led. quences, as follows : Lead the lowest of a head sequence of three, fourth best of a head sequence of four or more, in a suit of five or more, including the Queen. The old lead of Knave from the head of a suit of Knave, Ten, Nine, etc., is now practically abandoned, since it has been so clearly shown that the practice of covering at second hand, with the King or Queen, is a mistake, as the Ace must lie in third or fourth hand, and second hand does not cover except with Ace, and the special object of the lead of Knave is thus nullified. It would seem that inasmuch as the practice as to covering the Queen at second hand is the same, and for the same reason there is also good reason for abandoning the lead of the Queen from the head of a sequence, especially as by so doing, and confining the lead to the lowest of the sequence, in all these cases definite information is given as to the number of the suit led from, and greater simplicity and uniformity secured. This practice would also simplify the rules for second leads. The Card to Lead. 19 Ten is led from, 1. King, Queen, Knave, Ten, and one or more lower ; Even though holdiug the Nine. 2. King, Knave, Ten, and one or more lower. The Ten indicates King and Knave, and perhaps Queen. By the play suggested in note to the lead of Queen, the lead of Ten would be restricted to live-card suits, and include the lead of Ten from Queen, Knave, Ten, and two or more lower, as the lowest of the sequence, as in other five-card suit leads ; so that the Ten should always show five in suit at least. But the rule is given as stated hy the majority of the authorities. Nine is led from, 1. Ace, Queen, Ten, Mne, without others. 2. Ace, Knave, Ten, Mne, without others. 3. King, Knave, Ten, Mne, with or without lower. Being in each case the fourth best. G. W. P., in *' American Whist Illustrated," makes a special point of leading Nine only from King, Knave, Nine, but this requires the lead of Ace from the above four-card suits, Ace, Queen, Ten, Nine ; and Ace, Knave, Ten, Nine. The Ten always shows King and Knave. The Nine indicates the Ten and two honors ; the first round will show which. All Other cards are led in strong suits only as fourth best, and from all combinations of four or more cards other than those above given, lead, first, the fourth best. 20 A Practical Guide to Whist. The character of the trump turned sometimes necessitates modifications of high-card trump leads as follows. SPECIAL LEADS IN TRUMPS. 1. Lead Ace, then King, from Ace, King, and three or more low, if Queen was turned on the right. 2. Lead Queen from Ace, Queen, Ten, etc., if Knave was turned on the right. 3. Lead Queen from Queen, Knave, Nine, etc., if Ten was turned on the right. 4. Lead Knave from King, Knave, Nine, etc., if Ten was turned on the right. 5. Lead Knave from Knave, Ten, Nine, etc., if Queen or King was turned on the left. C. Lead Knave from Knave, Ten, Eight, etc., if Nine was turned on the right. Other special trump leads may be necessitated by tfie character of the trump turned on the right or left. High cards are led on forced leads from weak suits, as follows. ORIGINAL LEADS FROM WEAK SUITS. Ace is led from, 1. Ace, King. 2. Ace and one lower. Leads from two-card suits are never advisable unless at the end of the hand, when the eituation renders it The Card to Lead. necessary, or when the suit is known to be partner's strong suit. King is led from, 1. Ace, King, Queen. 2. King, Queen, and one lower. 3. King and one lower. But, at the end of the hand, if the suit can go round but once, lead the low from King and one low. Queen is led from, 1. Queen, Knave, with or without one lower. 2. Queen and one lower. Knave is led from, 1. Knave and one or two lower. Ten is led from, 1. Ace, Queen, Ten. But only when absolutely unavoidable, as it is a veiy bad suit to open, and should be held to be led up to or throujj^h, if possible. If the suit can go round but once, lead the Ace. 2. King, Knave, Ten. 3. Ten and one or two lower. From any three-card suit headed by nothing higher than tlie Knave, and from any two cards, if forced to lead, lead the highest. Except, as above stated, when the suit can go round but onccj lead the lower of any two if you have not the Ace. It is not often necessary to open a two-card suit 22 A Practical Guide to Whist. until toward the eud of the hand when some indica- tions have been given as to whose suit it is. In a suit known to be partner's strong suit, not previously led, lead Ace, if you have it, or second best from second and third best ; otherwise lead highest of any three, lowest of any four or more cards you hold of tlie suit. On the same principle as the return lead of highest of two, etc., to clear and help establish his suit without exhausting his high cards. SECOND LEADS FROM STRONG SUITS. On a second lead, in continuing your suit, the card to be selected depends upon the character and num- ber of the suit. Tlie rules, so far as they cover gen- eral cases, are as follows : 1. Lead the master card, if you have it without one or more in sequence with it. If not played on the second round it is in danger of being trumped on the third round. But in trumps there not being any such danger, it is often held back to keep the command. So in plain suits it is well to occasionally retain it, leading a low one, as when : a. Left-hand opponent has second best, and fourth hand is weak in the suit, so that partner may be able to take the trick cheaply. This is more frequently practised, however, in left-hand op- ponent's suit, and is termed ^* underplay." 6. "When trumps are all out, or in your or partner's hand. c. If you are very strong in trumps. The Card to Lead. 23 If the best is likely to draw second best from an opponent, it should be led on second round. 2. After leading a high card, unless you hold the best, or two or more in sequence, including second best, follow with your original fourth best. This play shows exactly two higher cards remaining in your hand, which the fall of the cards on this round and your partner's cards will indicate to him, and the subsequent fall of the cards will show the number you hold, if not indicated on the second round. 3. After leading the lowest of a head sequence, fol- low with the next higher if the suit was originally of six or more ; the next but one higher, if of five cards only. This rule applies to all leads from head sequences in suits of five or more except that from Queen, Knave, Ten, etc. If the Ten were led from head sequence to the Queen in five-card suits, as suggested, the opera- tion of this rule would bo extended to this case also. 4. After leading a low card, if you hold second and third best, lead second best. When the first lead was of a low card, the conven- tional play of lower cards gives information as to the number of the suit led from, although it is often indi- cated on the first round, as when a Two is led, or a Three, and the Two falls, on the trick the lead shows four at most. For other second leads no general rules can be laid down, but the proper cards to be led first and sec- ond from the various combinations in strong suits are given in the following table of 24 A Practical Guide to Whist. LEADS FROM STRONG SUITS IN DETAIL. FROM Ace, Kingj Queen, Knave, and one or more lower, Ace, King, Queen, Knave, without others, Ace, King, Queen, and two or more lower, not includ- ing Knave, Ace, King, Queen, and one lower, Ace, King, and three or more lower, not including Queen, Ace, King, and two lower," not including Queen, Ace, Queen, Knave, Ten, with or without others, Ace, Queen, Knave, and one or more low. Ace, Queen, Ten, and two or more low. Ace, Queen, Ten, and one low. Ace, Queen, and three or more low, LEAD Knave, then King from five, Queen from six or more originally in the suit. King, then Knave. Queen, then Ace from five. King from six or more in suit. King, then Queen. Ace, then King, in plain suits. (In trumps, 4th best, unless with five or more low.) King, then Ace, in plain suits. (In trumps, lowest.) Ace, then Ten. Ace, then Queen from four. Knave from five or more in suit. Ace, then 4th best. (In trumps, 4th best, unless with 7 in all.) Fourth best, then Ace. Ace, then 4th best. (In trumps, 4th best, unless with 7 in all.) The Card to Lead. 25 FROM Ace, Queen, and two low, Ace, Knave, Ten, and two or more lower, Ace, Knave, Ten, and one low, Ace, Knave, and three or more low. Ace, and four or more low, Ace, and three low, King, Queen, Knave, Ten, and one or more lower, King, Queen, Knave, Ten, without others. King, Queen, Knave, and two or more low, King, Queen, Knave, and one low, King, Queen, Ten, and two or more low. King, Queen, Ten, and one low, King, Queen, and three or LEAD Lowest (4th best). Ace, then 4th best. (In trumps, 4th best, unless with 7 in all.) Nine, then Ace. Lowest, then Ace. Ace, then 4th best. (In trumps, 4th best, unless with 7 in all.) Ace, then 4th best. (In trumps, 4th best, unless with 7 in all.) Lowest, then Ace. Ten, then Queen from five, Knave from six or more in suit. King, then Ten. Knave, then King from five, Queen from six or more in suit. King, then Knave. Queen ; then, if Queen wins, 4th best. King. (In trumps, lowest.) Queen ; then, if Queen wins, 26 A Practical Guide to Whist FROM more lower, not including Knave, King, Queen, and two low, King, Knave, Ten, Nine, with or without lower, King, Knave, Ten, and one or more low, King, and three or more low, Queen, Knave, Ten, Nine, with or without lower. Queen, Knave, Ten, and one or more lower, not including Nine, LEAD original 4th best. (In trumps, 4th best, unless with 7 in all.) King ; then, if it wins, low- est. (In trumps, lowest.) Nine ; then, if Nine wins. Knave from four, Ten from five or more in suit ; if Nine draws Queen, or Ace and Queen, then King from four. Knave from five or more ; if Nine draws Ace and not Queen, then King ; then Knave from four. Ten from five or more in suit. Ten ; then, if Ten wins, orig- inal 4th best ; if Ten draws Queen, or Ace and Queen, then King from four. Knave from five or more ; if Ten draws Ace and not Queen, then King. Fourth best. Queen, then Nine. Queen, then Knave from four. Ten from five or more in suit. The Card to Lead. 2^ FROM Queen, and three or more low, Knave,' Ten, Nine, and one or more lower, Ten, Nine, Eight, and one or more lower. From all other combinations, Fourth best. Fourth best. Fourth best. Fourth best. LEADS FROM WEAK SUITS IN DETAIL. FROM Ace, King, Queen, Ace, King, Knave, Ace, King, and one other lower than Knave, Ace, Queen, Knave, Ace, Queen, Ten, Ace, Queen, and one other lower than Ten, Ace, and two others, lower than Queen, King, Queen, Knave, King, Queen, and one lower, King, Knave, Ten, King, Knave, and one lower. LEAD King, then Queen. King, then Ace. King, then Ace. Ace, then Queen. Ten, then Ace. ( But this is a very bad suit to open.) Lowest, then Ace. Lowest, then Ace. King, then Knave. King, then Queen. Ten, (then if Ten wins, Knave ; if Ten draws Queen, or Ace and Queen, then King.) Lowest. 28. A Practical Guide to Whist. FROM King, and any two others^ lower than Queen, Queen, Knave, Ten, Queen, Knave, and one lower, Queen, and two others low- er than Knave, Knave, and two lower. Ten, and two lower. Any other three cards, Any two cards. Lowest. Queen, then Knave. Queen, then Knave. Lowest. Knave. Ten. Highest. Highest. But if you know the suit is your partner's longest suit, lead the highest of any three. LEADS IN PARTNER^S SUIT. The card to lead in return of partner's suit is se- lected with reference to its being of the most service in taking tricks, or strengthening and clearing the suit and getting rid of the control, and also giving indication of the number of the suit you hold. The general rules are as follows : . Return partner's lead in trumps, or plain suits, with the master-card, if you have it, or second best from second and third best, regardless of the num- ber you hold of it. The Card to Lead. 29 To get rid of the control, and clear and establish his suit for him. Not liaving the best, nor second and third best, return partner's suit with the higher of any two, lowest of any three or more cards of it remaining in your hand. With but two, your hi (Queen, Knave), and three or more low. One lower. Only led in weak suits. (King), Knave, (Ten), and one or more low. King, (Queen), Knave, (Ten), and one or more low. King, Queen, (Knave, Ten), and two or more low. King, Knave, (Ten), and one or more low. When the inferences are in the alternative, the cards held and the fall of the cards will show which is correct. Among other important points to be noted and remembered are : Queen, then low, Knave, then King, Knave, then Queen, Knave, then lower, Ten, then King, Ten, then Queen, Ten, then Knave, Ten, then low. The Play of Sequences, Etc. 57 1. The number of trumps played. 2. The number of your long suit played. 3. The number of times a suit goes round, and the renouncing, if any, on third round, so as to be able to place the remaining cards. 4. The trump signal, if given. 5. The first discard of each j)layer. One of the first things to be noticed in a hand, and remembered, is the numher of times a suit goes round, and the renouncing, if any, on the third round, so as to be able to place the cards remaining. X. The Discard. Not having any of the suit led, the player, unless attempting to take the trick by trumping, must dis- card, or throw away a card of another suit. The proper play of the discard is of great importance, both on account of the information given by it, and for the strengthening and protection of the hand. The first discard is almost of equal significance with an original lead, and later discards require consider- able skill and judgment. The general rules are as follows : 1. If opponents have not indicated a superiority in trumps, the first discard should be from your weak- est suit. And the lowest card, of course, unless calling for trumps. Indication of superiority in trumps is given by a trump call or lead. In the absence of such indi- cation you should preserve your strong suit intact, as long as there is a chance of establishing it. Even if the suit is very long or very poor, it is absolutely nec- essary to indicate your weakest suit by the first discard. 2. If opponents have indicated trump superiority, the first discard should be from your best protected suit. The Discard. 59 There is very little chance of being able to establish your long suit, in this case, and the best defence you can make is to keep high cards guarded in suits which are probably opponents' long ones. The best protected suit is that in which you are most likely to take a trick, and almost always your longest suit, so that the first discard in this case should show your partner your best suit, and guide his play. 3. Discards, after the first, must be made according to the hand, to protect and strengthen it as well as possible. It is impossible to lay down any general rule for sec- ond and later discards. If the first discard was from the weakest suit, it is common and proper to continue to discard from it, even to discarding honors in it, if there is a reasonable certainty of establishing and bringing in your or partner's suit. But, as that is often doubtful, it is not usually prudent to uuguard honors, and the discards must be made with regard to the hand, and the best protection of it all round. If the first discard was from the strong suit, on opponents' declaration of trump superiority, the subsequent dis- cards mu&t also depend upon the hand, care being especially necessary to retain strength in opponents' suits, as the best defence possible. The second discard, therefore, indicates nothing more than that it was the best thing for your hand under all the circumstances, and should not be taken as pointing out any special strength in the suit. On the contrary, it is usually and properly made from a suit in which you have no strength at all, and in which it is impossible to take a trick. 6o A Practical Guide to Whist. 4. Do not unguard an honor, or blank an Ace. The proper card to discard, of course, is the lowest, unless calling for trumps. Honors even in weak suits may be useful to take tricks in opponents' suits and should be kept guarded, unless it is certain that they can be safely thrown away for the sake of making low cards in your long suit. An Ace should not be left bare, as it might block partner's suit, or force you to take a trick, where it would be advantageous to allow your partner to win and take the lead, if possible. At the end of the hand, however, it may be necessary to blank an Ace. It is sometimes necessary to discard an honor in part- ner's long suit, to get rid of the command where there is danger of your being compelled to take a trick away from him and be left without a card of the suit to return to him, so that his last cards are wasted. When you have to discard from a suit of which you have complete control, discard the highest. The dis- card of the second best card of a suitindicatesthat you have no more. A discard (after the first) from a suit, in which you have a major tenace sometimes is resorted to, to induce left-hand opponent to lead the suit. But this is not a high order of whist strategy, and cannot be recommended. 5. Do not discard a singleton early in the game. As it may be needed to lead to partner's long suit, or one in which he holds a winning card. But when he is strong in trumps, and also, later in the game, when the situation is better known, it is justifiable, depending on the cards held. XL The Management of Trumps. The proper management of trumps, and the de- termination of the right time to lead them, from moderate strength, is the most important part of the play of tlie hand, and requires the most skill and judgment on the part of the player. The rules for leading from strength are generally to be taken with some allowances for peculiar conditions, and hands ; and those for leading from moderate strength upon the establishment of a suit, still more so. The rules for the play of trumps in various con- tingencies of the hand have been already given under their appropriate heads. But some points have either not been mentioned, or only mentioned incidentally, and are of sufficient importance to re- quire separate treatment, even at the risk of some repetition. THE TRUMP SIGNAL AND ECHO. When very strong in trumps, give the trump signal. By playing, unnecessarily, a higher before a lower card. Thus, having no occasion to attempt to take the trick, play the Three before the Two. Or with two 62 A Practical Guide to Whist. high cards in sequence (not the highest), at third hand, play the higher before the lower, in attempting to take the trick. Or at second hand, from Queen, Knave, and one low ; Knave, Ten, and one low ; or Ten, Nine, and one low, play the higher of the two in sequence, unless on a higher card led. The play of the lower of any of these sequences, followed by a lower card, must not be mistaken for the trump signal, as it is proper second hand play. An early signal for a trump lead should not be given without such strength in trumps as to insure the win- ning of the odd card. With six or more, it is always right to call ; but with five, only when an honor is also held, and at least one fair suit. With four trumps, two honors, and a strong hand, it is also justifiable. The responsibility for the hand is properly placed upon one who gives an early trump call, and it imposes on his partner the duty of immediate and absolute obedi- ence to it. For that reason it should never be given without suflScient warrant for it, as before stated. A late signal has not the same obligatory force as an early one, and may be given when, in the judgment of the player, a trump lead would be advantageous, either on account of the ascertained position of the cards or the reasonable chance of bringing in an established suit. Still, it should only be given with good judgment when the position justifies it, and should, of course, be at once obeyed, although the obligation is not so imperative as on an original call. With four or more trumps, echo partner's trump call, or lead. Even though very low ones. The information as to the number held is the important thing here. The Management of Trumps. 63 The echo is given in precisely the same way as the call, and may be made in plain suits, or trumps. The same information is also given in return leads in trumps where there is no opportunity to echo, as before stated. If partner by his play shows four or more trumps, give the echo, or signal, if you hold four or more. As by leading trumps, or refusing to trump a doubt- ful trick at second hand, or by leading a card to force you, opponents not having indicated trump strength. OTHER TRUMP PLAYS. If you are strong, or partner is weak, in trumps, force him if he has renounced a plain suit. If in doubt as to whether he is strong or not, j'ou, being weak, should not force him, unless : a. Opponents have indicated trump strength. 6. You can establish a cross-ruff. c. One trick only is needed to save or win the game. d. You have a good advantage in the score, and part- ner has not led or called for trumps, although having had opx^ortunity to do so. If you are Aveak in trumps, do not force partner. Unless you know him to be weak also, and except in the cases last above mentioned, when in doubt as to his being strong or weak. A too rigid adherence to this rule is often expensive, and good judgment, in view of the situation, frequently finds it advantageous to force partner, or, at least, to give him the option of trumping or not. 64 A Practical Guide to Whist. Lead a thirteener, if you have good trumps, but not the best one. Especially if fourth hand has the best trump. Do not draw the last trump from an opponent, you having the only other, and winning trump, if you have no established suit, and cannot lead part- ner's established suit. Especially if you must lead an established suit of an adversary. It is better to lead your or partner's long suit, to force out the losing trump, as you thus help to clear the suit, and may bring it in with the last trump, which you might not have been able to do, if you had led the trump. But if partner has an established suit, and a sure card of re-entry in a ruit which j^oucan lead, draw the losing trump, and lead to his card of re-entry. Lead from three trumps, or less, to stop a cross-ruff. This rule has already been given. The proper card to lead is given in the rules for leads from weak suits, to wit : the highest, except when with King, or Queen, and two low. If with a strong hand, in three plain suits, you hold but one trump, lead the trump singleton. Especially if partner dealt. Two or more rounds may possibly be drawn out, in one of which opponents will probably play two trumps to one, and the chance of your winning-cards being trumped will be dimin- ished. The Management of Trumps. 63 If strong in trumps, do not trump a doubtful trick. It would be waste of strength. Your trumps are of more value to exhaust opponents' trumps, and bring in your or partner's suit. But with very great strength, as six or more, and sometimes with five, and a very strong suit hand, it is proper to trump in, and lead trumps. With only four trumps and a fair hand, it is wrong to trump a doubtful trick. With three trumps, or less, trump freely. You cannot exhaust opponents' trumps, and yours are likely to be drawn by them unless used in ruliing. The occasion for the play usually comes at second hand. At third hand, on partner's original lead of an honor, if second hand has not covered, you should not trump, even if you know that fourth hand has a higher honor, as such a lead is usually for the purpose of forc- ing it out and clearing the suit, except in the case of a cross-ruff, and when evidently led for a force, or when the trick wins or saves the game, or when the suit can go round but once. Finesse deeply in trumps. To retain the command as late and long as possible. But not on partner's original lead of trumps, except with Ace, Queen, or Ace, Queen, Knave, etc., as it is important to make sure of two rounds. On a later lead of trumps, or opponents' lead, deep finessing is advis- able, unless it is desirable to stop the lead at once to continue a ruff. With Ace, Knave, etc., if an honor was turned on the right, finesse the Knave, on part- ner's lead of a low trump. 5 6(> A Practical Guide to Whist. Holding the best and fourth best trumps, right- hand opponent having second and third best, do not overtrump the third best at the eleventh trick. So as to keep the lead through your tenace, as before explained. With five trumps, be on the lookout against being caught with a superfluous trump. * So as not to be obUged to win the eleventh trick, and lead from a major tenace. Especially when right hand opponent is also strong in trumps. Do not trump, with the last trump, the second round of an opponent's suit. As it would probably leave his partner with one of the suit to lead back to him, and enable him to bring in his last cards of the suit. The next round will probably exhaust his partner. If he has another card of re-entry, it will make no difEerence, anyway. But if you can bring in your or partner's suit, or both, and pre- vent opponents from getting in again, of course it is best to trump. XII. In General. It is not so difficult as is often supposed for a be- ginner to acquire a sufficient knowledge of the rules for practical use. If he will learn thorouglily the rules for leading the five highest cards, and bear in mind that the fourth best is led instead of the lowest, he in-ay, by frequent practice, following the rules so learned, and with constant attention to the cards played, in time become a good player ; that is, be able to remember what cards have been played. The beginner should use the language of the game in its simplest and plainest way until he becomes a master of it, when lie may perhaps take liberties with it, just as the master of any other language may, without obscuring its meaning; wliicli is a very different thing from the broken and senseless jargon of one who does not understand it. One great difficulty is that very many who wish to learn to play will not devote any time or attention to studying the rudiments, but prefer to pick up from others, only a little less ignorant than them- selves, a mass of misinformation, and soon arrive at the conclusion that they "know it all," and 68 A Practical Guide to Whist. resent any intimation that tbey may be mistaken. One form of this misinformation is seen in the per- sistency with which some players, who are beginning to gain some little idea of the purposes of the game, always lead trumps from weak or strong trump suits indifferently, '' to protect their long suit." Another curious notion, quite common among a certain class, is tluit an original discard should always be from the strongest suit, ^ ' so as to indicate it to partner ! " But 2)erhaps the most common fault is that of con- sidering one's hand alone, and paying little or no regard to partner's. Even good players are guilty of this error, but not so much so now as under the old method of play. The object of the new system (Tf play is to utilize both hands to the best advantage, so as to enable each to play twenty-six cards instead of thirteen, as nearly as may be possible. To effect this it is, of course, necessary to play according to the rules, and avoid giving false information. The maxim is old and trite, perhaps, but it is true : that it is more important to give information to partner than to deceive your adversaries. False cards, therefore, should never be played when there is any possibility of their misleading your partner. Late in the hand, when there is no danger of deceiving him, or when to do so can do no liarm, it is justifiable to play false cards in order to mislead an adversary. The beginner should arrange his hand, and hold it In General. 69 spread open in sucli a way that a glance at it now and then will show it all to him, and in the mean- time devote his whole attention to tlie table, noting each card as it is played, and drawing inferences from it. In time he will come to remember all the cards played, and their meaning, so that the hands of the other players, or, at least, the essential features of their hands, will be revealed to him. Then comes the opportunity for skill and science, and the interest greatly increases. A mere knowledge of the common rules for play is only the mechanical outfit of the player, somewhat in the same way as a knowledge of the moves of the pieces is to a chess- player. Skill consists in the quickness and accuracy of the inferences drawn, the selection of the best cards to play or lead so as to make the most of the strength of the player's side, or defeat or obstruct that of opponents ; to take advantage of position, and make the most of every opportunity. The beauty of the game is that, no matter how far a player advances in his knowledge and skill, he con- tinues to take pleasure in each step, and yet sees that the possibilities ahead are immense, if not abso- lutely inexhaustible. It is only the very ignorant player who thinks he knows all that is to be learned in the science of whist. The most important thing is practice, steady and frequent practice. Fortunately, the fondness for this best of games is spreading, and the opportuni- 70 A Practical Guide to Whist. ties for practice are steadily increasing. Learn thoroughly the few principal rules (omitting the exceptions at first, which can be studied later as occasion arises), and then practise often, and with close attention to the play. Do not allow your atten- tion to be distracted from the table. Do not talk to the players or to outsiders while the game is going on, but watch and notice the play. Do not by any word or gesture give any indication as to the character of your hand. Emphatic play, banging the cards down on table, is in bad taste, and very unpleasant for those with whom you are play- ing. Hesitation before playing is also bad, as it is sure to give valuable information to opponents, and can do no good. It is true that many beginners are perplexed about their play, and stop and try to think what has been played before. But it rarely is of any use, for in nearly every case, unless one knows instinctively, no amount of brain- harrowing will recall previous plays, and the result is equally poor play added to the telltale hesitation. Watch the table, and in time you will come to notice and remember instinctively, not perhaps every card that has been played, but, what is much more important, what cards have ,iot been played, and in whose hands they are. Finally, keep your temper whatever luck befalls you, and never throw your hand down before it is played out. THE LAWS OF WHIST. Verbatim from the Club Code. *4{.* The English Club Code is given here^ as it is the one most generally used and recognized as authoritative. The method oj scoring may be changed^ if desired, without affecting its appli- cation in all other respects. THE RUBBER. 1. The rubber is the best of three games. If the first two games be won by the same players, tjie third game is not played. SCORING. 2. A game consists of five points. Each trick, above six, counts one point. 3. Honors, i.e.^ Ace, King, Queen, and Knave of trumps, are thus reckoned : If a player and his partner, either separately or conjointly, hold — I. The four honors, they score four points. II. Any three honors, they score two points. III. Only two honors, they do not score. 4. Those players, wdio, at the commencement of a deal, are at the score of four, cannot score honors. 72 A Practical Guide to Whist. 5. The penalty for a revoke* takes precedence of all other scores. Tricks score next. Honors last. 6. Honors, unless claimed before the trump card of the following deal is turned up, cannot be scored. 7. To score honors is not sufficient ; they must be called at tlie end of the hand ; if so called, they may be scored at any time during the game. 8. The winners gain — I. A treble, or game of three points, when their adversaries have not scored. n. A double, or game of two points, when their adversaries have scored less than three. HI. A single, or game of one point, when their adversaries have scored three, or four. 9. The winners of the rubber gain two points (commonly called the rubber points), in addition to the value of their games. 10. Should the rubber have consisted of three games, the value of the losers' game is deducted from the gross number of points gained by their opponents. 11. If an erroneous score be proved, such mistake can be corrected prior to the conclusion of the game in which it occurred, and such game is not concluded until the trump card of the following deal has been turned up. 12. If an erroneous score, affecting the amount of * Vide Law 72. The Laws of Whist. 73 the rubber,* be proved, such mistake can be rectified at any time during the rubber. CUTTING. 13. The ace is tlie lowest card. 14. In all cases, every one must cut from the same pack. 15. Should a player expose more than one card, he must cut again. FORMATION OF TABLE. 16. If there are more than four candidates, the players are selected by cutting : those first in the room having the preference. The four who cut the lowest cards play first, and again cut to decide on partners ; the two low^est play against the two higliest ; the lowest is the dealer, who has choice of cards and seats, and, having once made his selection, must abide by it. 17. When there are more than six candidates, those w^ho cut the two next lowest cards belong- to the table, which is complete with six players ; on the retirement of one of those six players, the candidate who cut the next lowest card has a prior right to any aftercomer to enter the table. * e.g. If a single is scored by mistake for a double or treble, or vice versa. 74 A Practical Guide to Whist. CUTTING CARDS OF EQUAL VALUE. 18. Two players cutting cards of equal value,* unless such cards are tlie two highest, cut again ; should they be the two lowest, a fresh cut is necessary to decide which of tliose two deals. t 19. Three players cutting cards of equal value cut again ; should the fourth (or remaining) card be the highest, the two lowest of the new cut are partners, the lower of those two the dealer ; should the fourth card be the lowest, the two highest are partners, the original lowest the dealer. J CUTTING OUT. 20. At the end of a rubber, should admission be * In cutting for partners. t Examiile. A three, two sixes, and a knave are cut. The two sixes cut again, and the lowest plays with the three. Suppose, at the second cut, the two sixes cut a king and a queen, the queen plays with the three. If at the second cut a lower card than the three is cut, the three still retains its privileges as original low, and has the deal and choice of cards and seats. X Example. Three aces and a two are cut. The three aces cut again. The two is the original high, and plays with the highest of the next cut. Suppose, at the second cut, two more twos and a king are drawn The king plays with the original two, and the other pair of twos cut again for deal. Suppose instead, the second cut to consist of an ace and two knaves. The two knaves cut again, and the highest plays with the two. The Laws of Whist. 75 claimed by any one, or by two candidates, he who has, or they w^ho have, played a greater number of consecutive rubbers than the others is, or are, out ; but when all have played the same number, they must cut to decide upon the outgoers ; the highest are out. ENTRY AND RE-ENTRY. 21. A candidate wishing to enter a table must declare such intention prior to any of the players having cut a card, either for the purpose of com- mencing a fresh rubber, or of cutting out. 22. In the formation of fresh tables, those can- didates who have neither belonged to nor played at any other table have the prior right of entry ; the others decide their right of admission by cutting. 23. Any one quitting a table prior to the conclu- sion of a rubber, may, with consent of the other three players, appoint a substitute in his absence during that rubber. 24. A player cutting into one table, whilst belong- ing to another, loses his right* of re-entry into that latter, and takes his chance of cutting in, as if he were a fresh candidate.! 25. If any one break up a table, the remaining players have the prior right to him of entry into any other, and should there not be sufficient vacancies '•'i.e., his prior right. t And last in the room {vide Law 16). 76 A Practical Guide to Whist. at such other table to admit all those candidates, they settle their precedence by cutting. SHUFFLING. 26. The pack must neither be shuffled below the table nor so that the face of any card be seen. 27. The pack must not be shuffled during the play of the hand. 28. A pack, having been played with, must neither be shuffled, by dealing it into packets, nor across the table. 29. Each player has a right to shuffle, once only, except as provided by Rule 32, prior to a deal, after a false cut,* or when a new dealt has occurred. 30. The dealer's partner must collect the cards for the ensuing deal, and has the first right to shuffle that pack, 31. Each player, after shuffling, must place the cards, properly collected and face downwards, to the left of the player about to deal. 32. The dealer has always the right to shuffle last; but should a card or cards be seen during his shuffling or whilst giving the pack to be cut, he may be compelled to re-shuffle. THE DEAL. 33. Each player deals in his turn ; the right of dealing goes to the left. * Vide Law 34. t Vide Law 37. The Laws of Whist. 77 34. The player on the dealer's right cuts the pack, and in dividing it, must not leave fewer than four cards in either packet ; if in cutting, or in replacing one of the two packets on the other, a card be exposed,* or if there be any confusion of the cards, or a doubt as to the exact place in which the pack was divided, there must be a fresh cut. 35. When a player, whose duty it is to cut, has once separated tlie pack, he cannot alter his inten- tion ; he can neither re-slmfile nor re-cut the cards. 36. When the pack is cut, should the dealer shuffle the cards, he loses his deal. A NEW DEAL. 87. There must be a new deal t — I, If, during a deal, or during the play of a hand, the pack be proved incorrect or imperfect. II. If any card, excepting the last, be faced in the pack. 38. If, whilst dealing, a card be exposed by the dealer or his partner, should neither of the adver- saries have touclied the cards, the latter can claim a new deal; a card exposed by either adversary gives that claim to tlie dealer, provided that his partner has not touched a card ; if a new deal does not take place, the exposed card cannot be called. * After the two packets have been re-united, Law 38 comes into operation. t i.e., the same dealer must deal again. Vide also Laws 47 and 50. 78 A Practical Guide to Whist. 39. If, during dealing, a player touch any of his cards, the adversaries may do the same, without los- ing their privilege of claiming a new deal, should chance give them such option. 40. If, in dealing, one of the last cards be exposed, and the dealer turn up the trump before there is reasonable time for his adversaries to decide as to a fresh deal, they do not thereby lose their privilege. 41. If a player, whilst dealing, look at the trump card, his adversaries have a right to see it, and may exact a new deal. 42. If a player take into the hand dealt to him a card belonging to the other pack, the adversaries, on discovery of the error, may decide whether they will have a fresh deal or not. A MISDEAL. 43. A misdeal loses the deal.* 44. It is a misdeal t — I. Unless the cards are dealt into four packets, one at a time in regular rotation, beginning- with the player to the dealer's left. II. Should the dealer place the last {i.e., the trump) card, face downwards, on his own, or any other pack. III. Should the trump card not come in its regular order to the dealer; but he does not lose his deal if the pack be proved imperfect. * Except as provided in Laws 45 and 50. t Vide also Law 36. The Laws of Whist. 79 IV. Should a player have fourteen ^ cards, and either of the other three less than thirteen, f V. Should the dealer, under an impression that he has made a mistake, either count the cards on the table, or the remainder of the pack. VI. Should the dealer deal two cards at once, or two cards to the same hand, and then deal a third ; but if, prior to dealing that third card, the dealer can, by altering the position of one card only, rectify such error, he may do so, except as provided by the second paragraph of this Law. VII. Should the dealer omit to have the pack cut to him, and the adversaries discover the error, prior to the trump card being turned up, and before looking at their cards, but not after hav- ing done so. 45. A misdeal does not lose the deal if, during the dealing, either of the adversaries touch the cards prior to the dealer's partner having done so, but should the latter have first interfered with the cards, notwithstanding either or both of the adver- saries have subsequently done the same, the deal is lost. 46. Should three players have their right number of cards — the fourth have less than thirteen, and not discover such deficiency until he lias played any of his cards,! the deal stands good ; should he have played, he is as answerable for any revoke he may * Or more. t The pack being perfect. Vide Law 47. X i.e., until after he has played to the first trick. 8o A Practical Guide to Whist. have made as if the missing card, or cards, had been in his hand ; ^ he may search the other pack for it, or them. 47. If a }3ack, during or after a rubber, be proved incorrect or imperfect, such proof does not alter any- past score, game, or rubber ; that hand in which the imperfection was detected is null and void ; the dealer deals again. 48. Any one dealing out of turn, or with the adver- sary's cards, may be stopped before the trump card is turned up, after which the game must proceed as if no mistake had been made. 49. A player can neither shuffle, cut, nor deal for his partner, without the permission of liis oppo- nents. 50. If the adversaries interrupt a dealer whilst dealing, either by questioning the score or asserting that it is not his deal, and fail to establish such claim, should a misdeal occur, he may deal again. 51. Should a player take his partner's deal, and misdeal, the latter is liable to the usual penalty, and the adversary next in rotation to the player who ought to have dealt then deals. THE TRUMP CARD. 52. The dealer, when it is his turn to play to the first trick, should take the trump card into his * Vide also Law 70, and Law 44, paragraph iv. The Laws of Whist. hand; if left on the table after the first trick be turned and quitted, it is liable to be called;^ his partner may at any time remind liim of the liability. 53. After the dealer has taken the trump card into liis hand, it cannot be asked for;t a player naming it any time during the play of that hand is liable to have his highest or lowest trump called. J 54. If the dealer take the trump card into his hand before it is his turn to play, he may be desired to lay it on the table; should he show a wrong card, this card may be called, as also a second, a third, etc., until the trump card be produced. 55. If the dealer declare himself unable to recollect the trump card, his highest or lowest trump may be called at any time during that hand, and, unless it cause him to revoke, must be played ; the call may be repeated, but not changed, i.e.^ from highest to lowest, or vice versd^ until such card is played. CARDS LIABLE TO BE CALLED. 56. All exposed cards are liable to be called, and must be left § on the table ; but a card is not an exposed card when dropped on the floor, or else- where below the table. * It is not usual to call the tramp card if left on the table, t Any one may inquire what the trump suit is, at any time. X In the manner described in Law 55. § Face upwards. 6 82 A Practical Guide to Whist. The following are exposed * cards : I. Two or more cards played at once.f II. Any card dropped with its face upwards, or in any way exposed on or above the table, even though snatched up so quickly that no one can name it. 57. If any one play to an imperfect trick the best card on the table, J or lead one which is a winning card as against his adversaries, and then lead again, § or play several such winning cards, one after the other, without waiting for his partner to play, the latter may be called on to win, if he can, the first or any other of those tricks, and tlie other cards thus improperly played are exposed cards. 58. If a player, or players, under the impression that the game is lost — or won — or for other reasons — throw his or their cards on the table face upwards, such cards are exposed, and liable to be called, each player's by the adversary ; but should one player alone retain his hand, he cannot be forced to aban- don it. 59. If all four players throw their cards on the * Detached cards (i.e., cards taken out of the hand but not dropped face upwards on the table, or dropped face downwards on the table) are only liable to be called, if named ; tide Law 60. t If two or more cards are played at once, the adversaries have a right to call which they please to the trick in course of play and afterwards to call the others. t And then lead without waiting for his partner to play. § Without waiting for his partner to play. The Laws of Whist. 83 table face upwards, the hands are abandoned; and no one can again take up his cards. Should this general exhibition show that the game might have been saved, or won, neither claim can be entertained, unless a revoke be established. The revoking players are then liable to the following penalties : they can- not under any circumstances win the game by the result of that hand, and the adversaries may add three to their score, or deduct three from that of the revoking players. 60. A card detached from the rest of the hand so as to be named is liable to be called; but should the adversary name a wrong card, he is liable to have a suit called when he or his partner have the lead.* 61. If a player who has rendered himself liable to have the highest or lowest of a suit called, fail to play as desired, or if when called on to lead one suit, lead another, having in his hand one or more cards of that suit demanded, he incurs the penalty of a revoke. 62. If any player lead out of turn, his adversaries may either call the card erroneously led — or may call a suit from him or his partner when it is next the turn of either of tliemf to lead. * i.e., the first time that side obtains the lead. + i.e., the penahy of calling a suit must be exacted from which- ever of them next first obtains the lead. It follows that if the player who leads out of turn is the partuer of the person who ought 84 A Practical Guide to Whist. 63. If any player lead out of turn, and the other three have followed him, the trick is complete, and the error cannot be rectified ; but if only the second, or the second and third, have played to the false lead, their cards, on discovery of the mistake, are taken back ; there is no penalty against any one, excepting the original offender, whose card may be called — or he, or his partner, when either of them * has next the lead, may be compelled to play any suit demanded by the adversaries. 64. In no case can a player be compelled to play a card which would oblige him to revoke. 65. The call of a card may be repeated t until such card has been played. 66. If a player called on to lead a suit have none of it, the penalty is paid. CARDS PLAYED IN ERROR, OR NOT PLAYED TO A' TRICK. 67. If the third hand played before the second, the fourth hand may play before his partner. 68. Should the third hand not have played, and the fourth play before his partner, the latter may be called on to win, or not to win the trick. to have led, and a guit is called, it must be called at once from the right leader. If he is allowed to play as he pleases, the only penalty that remains is to call the card erroneously led. * e.e., whichever of them next first has the lead. t At every trick. The Laws of Whist. 85 69. If any one omit playing to a former trick, and such error be not discovered until he has played to the next, the adversaries may claim a new deal ; should they decide that the deal stand good, the surplus card at the end of the hand is considered to have been played to the imperfect trick, but does not constitute a revoke therein. 70. If any one play two cards to the same trick, or mix his trump, or other card, with a trick to whicli it does not properly belong, and the mistake be not discovered until the hand is played out, he is answer- able for all consequent revokes he may have made."^ If, during the play of the hand, the error be detected, the tricks may be counted face downwards, in order to ascertain whether there be among them a card too many : should this be the case they may be searched, and the card restored ; the player is, how- ever, liable for all revokes which he may have mean- while made. THE REVOKE. 71. Is when a player, holding one or more cards of the suit led, plays a card of a different suit.f 72. Tlie penalty for a revoke : I. Is at the option of the adversaries, who, at the end of the hand, may either take three tricks from the revoking player J — or deduct three * V4de also Law 46. t Vide also Law 61. X And add them to their own. 86 A Practical Guide to Whist. points from his score— or add three to their own score ; II. Can be claimed for as many revokes as occur during the hand ; III. Is iapplicable only to the score of the game in whicli it occurs ; IV". Cannot be divided^ i.e., a player cannot add one or two to his own score and deduct one or two from the revoking player ; V. Takes precedence of every other score, e.g.^ the claimants two — their opponents nothing — the former add three to their score — and thereby win a ti-eble game, even should the latter have made thirteen tricks, and held four honors. 73. A revoke is established, if the trick in which it occur be turned and quitted, i.e., the hand re- moved from that trick after it has been turned face downwards on the table — or if either the revoking player or liis partner, whether in his right turn or otherwise, lead or phay to the following trick. 74. A player may ask his partner whether he has not a card of the suit which lie has renounced ; should the question be asked before the trick is turned and quitted, subsequent turning and quitting does not establish the revoke, and the error may be corrected, unless the question be answered in the negative, or unless the revoking player or his partner have led or played to the following trick. 75. At the end of the luind, the claimants of a revoke may search all the tricks."^ * Vide Law 77. The Laws of Whist. 87 76. If a player discover his mistake in time to save a revoke, the adversaries, whenever they think fit, may call the card thus played in error, or may require him to play his highest or lowest card to that trick in which he has renounced ; any player or players who have played after him may withdraw their cards and substitute others ; the cards withdrawn are not liable to be called. 77. If a revoke be claimed, and the accused player or his partner mix the cards before they have been sufficiently examined by the adversaries, the revoke is established. The mixing of the cards only renders the proof of a revoke difficult, but does not prevent the claim, and possible establishment, of the penalty. 78. A revoke cannot be claimed after the cards have been cut for the following deal. 79. The revoking player and his partner may, under all circumstances, require the hand in which the revoke has been detected to be played out. 80. If a revoke occur, be claimed and proved, bets on the odd trick, or on amount of score, must be decided by the actual state of the latter, after the penalty is paid. 81. Should the players on both sides subject them- selves to the penalty of one or more revokes, neither can win the game ; each is punished at the discretion of his adversary."^ * In the manner prescribed in Law 72. 88 A Practical Guide to Whist. 82. In whatever way the penalty be enforced, under no circumstances can a player win the game by the result of the hand during which he has revoked ; he cannot score more than four. (Vide Rule 61.) CALLING FOR NEW CARDS. 83. Any player (on paying for them) before, but not after, the pack be cut for the deal, may call for fresh cards. He must call for two new packs, of which the dealer takes his choice. GENERAL RULES. 84. Where a player and his partner have an option of exacting from their adversaries one of two penal- ties, they should agree who is to make the election, but must not consult with one another which of the two penalties it is advisable to exact ; if they do so consult they lose their right ; ^ and if either of them, with or without consent of his partner, demand a penalty to which he is entitled, such decision is final. This rule does not apply in exacting the penalties for a revoke. Partners have then a right to consult. 85. Any one during the play of a trick, or after the four cards are played, and before, but not after, they are touched for the purpose of gathering them together, may demand that the cards be placed be- fore their respective players. * To demand any penalty. The Laws of Whist. 89 86. If any one, prior to his partner playing, should call attention to the trick — either by saying that it is his, or by naming his card, or, without being required so to do, by drawing it toward him — the adversaries may require that opponent's partner to play the highest or lowest of the suit then led, or to win or lose ^ the trick. 87. In all cases where a penalty has been incurred, the offender is bound to give reasonable time for the decision of his adversaries. 88. If a bystander make any remark which calls the attention of a player or players to an oversight affecting the score, he is liable to be called on, by the players only, to pay the stakes and all bets on that game or rubber. 89. A bystander, by agreement among the players, may decide any question. 90. A card or cards torn or marked must be either replaced by agreement, or new cards called at the expense of the table. 91. Any player may demand to see the last trick turned, and no more. Under no circumstances can more than eight cards be seen during the play of the hand, viz. : the four cards on the table which have not been turned and quitted, and the last trick turned. * i.e., refrain from winning. ETIQUETTE OF WHIST. The following rules belong to the established Eti- quette of Whist. They are not called laws, as it is difficult — ^in some cases impossible — to apply any penalty to their infraction, and the only remedy is to cease to play with players who habitually disregard them. Two packs of cards are invariably used at Clubs : if possible this should be adhered to. Any one, having the lead and several winning cards to play, should not draw a second card out of his hand until his partner has played to the first trick, such act being a distinct intimation that the former has played a winning card. No intimation whatever, by word or gesture, should be given by a player as to the state of his hand, or of the game.* A player who desires the cards to be placed, or who demands to see the last trick, t should do it for liis own information only, and not in order to invite the attention of his partner. - The question "Who dealt ? " is irregular, and if asked should not be answered. + Or who asks what the trump suit is. Etiquette of Whist. 91 No player should object to refer to a bystander who professes himself uninterested in the game, and able to decide any disputed question of facts; as to who played any particular card — whether honors were claimed though not scored, or vice mrsci — etc., etc. It is unfair to revoke purposely ; having made a revoke, a player is not justified in making a second in order to conceal the first. Until the players have made such bets as they wish, bets should not be made with bystanders. Bystanders should make no remark, neither should they by word or gesture give any intimation of the state of the game until concluded and scored, nor should they walk round the table to look at the different hands. No one should look over the hand of a player against whom he is betting. DUMMY Is played by three players. One hand, called Dummy's, lies exposed on the table. The laws are the same as those of Whist, with the following exceptions : I. Durmny deals at the commencement of each rubbei-. II. Dummy is not liable to the penalty for a revoke, 92 A Practical Guide to Whist. as his adversaries see his cards : should he * re- voke and the error not be discovered until the trick is turned and quitted, it stands good.t III. Dummy being blind and deaf, his Partner is not liable to any penalty for an error whence he can gain no advantage. Thus, he may expose some, or all of his cards, or may declare that he has the game, or trick, etc., without incur- ring any penalty ; if, however, he lead from Dummy's hand when he should lead from his own, or vice versd, a suit may be called from the hand which ought to have led. DOUBLE DUMMY Is played by two players, each having a Dummy or exposed hand for his partner. The laws of the game do not differ from Dummy Whist, except in the following special law: There is no misdeal, as the deal is a disadvantage. * i.e.. Dummy's hand. If Dummy's partner revokes, he is liable to the usual penalties. t And the liand proceeds as though the revoke had not been dis- covered.