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RAMBLES IN AMERICA, 
 
 PAST A^D PEESENT. 
 
 ALFRED J. PAIRPOINT. 
 
 AUTHOR OF " UNCLE SAM AND HIS COUNTRY. 
 
 mit lUurtfatiow try $U$# 1. p. f aitpoittt 
 
 " I prize the Past much, but the Present : 
 
 more ! " 
 
 
 
 
 BOSTON : 
 
 
 JO 
 
 *t 
 
 V 
 
 [.FRED MUDGE & SON, PRINTERS, 
 
 
 
 
 No. 24 Franklin Street. 
 
 
 
 
 
 1891. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Copyright, 
 
 1890, 
 
 Alfred J. Pairpoint. 
 
 . 
 
u 
 
 THIS WORK 
 
 IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED 
 
 TO HIS BELOVED SISTERS, 
 
 ALL OF WHOM HAVE EVER ENCOURAGED HIM IN HIS 
 
 LITERARY EFFORTS, 
 
 OF PAST AND PRESENT MEMORIES. 
 
 

THE AUTHOR'S ADDRESS TO HIS READER. 
 
 In dotting down these rambles by the wayside of America, 
 the writer had the twofold object in view, that of uniting 
 amusement with instruction to his readers, and in a pleasant, 
 conversational way has endeavored to describe sights and 
 scenes, by river and land, of this wonderful continent, at 
 which, during a course of years, he has been personally 
 present ; at the same time, to relieve the volume from 
 monotony, has introduced into these sketches, anecdotes of 
 place and character in many phases, whenever and wherever 
 they were to be met with during the sojournings of the 
 author. 
 
 In the concluding chapters of this book, a three-months' 
 trip to England, Ireland, and Scotland is described in a 
 cursory manner, which may prove interesting to people of 
 all nationalities who love reading of past and present events. 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 FART I. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 New Bedford, Mass. 9 
 
 New Bedford Whaling Wharf {Illustrated) . . . . 11 
 
 Portuguese Masquerade ]C> 
 
 Cruise from New Bedford to Philadelphia. (Illustrated) . i2 
 
 Gay Head. Camp-Meetings at Martha's Vineyard . . . 2"> 
 
 " City of Columbus " Shipwreck 28 
 
 Nantucket and Siasconset 30 
 
 Cod-Fishing at No-man's Land 38 
 
 American War Ship " Kearsarge " 40 
 
 President Harrison at Newport 43 
 
 The British North American Squadron at Newport Harbor . 46 
 
 Dorchester, Mass., Revisited. (Illustrated) .... 48 
 
 Lynn, Mass 52 
 
 Pirates' Dungeon Cave, near Lynn 54 
 
 Harvard College, Cambridge, Mass 55 
 
 Early Settlement of Plymouth, Mass 58 
 
 Provincetown, Cape Cod 60 
 
 Hyannis and Sandwich 65, 67 
 
 Cape Cod Canal 68 
 
 Falmouth and Onset Bay 70, 72 
 
 President Cleveland's Wife, Marion, Mass 73 
 
 Taunton, Mass., Revisited 74 
 
 Squabetty, and its Myriads of Fish. (Illustrated) ... 77 
 
 The Insane Asylum at Taunton 80 
 
 Taunton's Great Celebration of June 4, 1889 .... 83 
 
 Providence, R. 1 87 
 
 Gorham Manufacturing Company, Providence .... 90 
 
 The Cotton Centennial, Pawtucket, 1890 99 
 
 State Prison of Hhode Island 102 
 
 Railway String Teams of Horses, Providence. (Illustrated) . 106 
 
 The Falstaff Club . . , 107 
 
 Hunt's Mills, East Providence Centre 108 
 
 American Religion ; its Observances Ill 
 
 Meriden, Conn 113 
 
 New Britain, Conn 118 
 
 Battle-Flag Day at Hartford, Conn 119 
 
 Wethersneld Prison, near Hartford 121 
 
 The Lady of the Rock, Connecticut 124 
 
 Waterbury, Conn., the "Brass City " 127 
 
 The Family Cat, " Mitey." (Illustrated) 131 
 
Vlll 
 
 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 PART II. 
 
 Montreal Carnival Week, January, 1885 . 
 Down the St. Lawrence to Quebec . 
 Return up the St. Lawrence .... 
 Lake Ontario, its Cities, and its Thousand Islands 
 
 Niagara Falls 
 
 The Niagara Suspension Bridge 
 
 Capt. Webb's Fate at Niagara .... 
 
 New York Revisited 
 
 East River Suspension Bridge . 
 New York Confidence Men and their Victims . 
 Coney Island, 1882, 1883, 1889 .... 
 The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Central Park 
 American Peculiarities. {Illustrated) 
 Surprise Parties in America 
 
 Country Board ing-Houses 
 
 Divorces in America . . . 
 
 PART III. 
 
 Baltimore, the " Monumental City'* . 
 
 Washington and its Capitol 
 
 The White House at Washington 
 
 Mount Vernon. Washington's Tomb 
 
 A Trip to a Tobacco Plantation 
 
 Culture and Manufacture of Tobacco. (Illustrated) 
 
 Railway Trip to Philadelphia .... 
 
 Girard College 
 
 The Deluge at Johnstown, Penn. 
 The Mammoth Cave of Kentucky 
 
 From Boston to Chicago 
 
 The Stockyard 
 
 Alleghany Mountains 
 
 The Steamships " City of Rome," " Austral," and 
 
 The Prince of Wales and Mr. Gladstone in Edinbui 
 
 The Prince of Wales and Family at the Forth Brid 
 
 Dublin and Cork 
 
 Loudon and its Environs . 
 
 The English Coast . 
 
 Places of Interest 
 
 Henley-on-Thames 
 
 Richmond Park and Kew Gardens 
 
 Sheffield and Birmingham . 
 
 Westminster Abbey . 
 
 New River Company, London, England 
 
 Across the Atlantic. Queenstown to New York (IUnst) 
 
 Dev 
 ffli 
 
 222, 
 
 244, 
 ated) 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 PAET I. 
 
 New Bedford, Mass. 
 
 Having been located some five years or more in Southern 
 Massachusetts, gave the narrator many opportunities to study 
 its people, and notice the various surroundings of town and 
 country life. New Bedford, Mass., is situated ou Buzzard's 
 Bay, and noted for its picturesque inner and outer harbors. 
 The city of New Bedford, and the town of Fairhaven on the 
 opposite shore, some thirty years ago were the great empo- 
 rium of whaling interests ; vessels of all sizes and tonnage 
 used to come and go all the year round. The homeward- 
 bound ships, laden with whale oil and bone, returning after 
 a successful cruise, was always a jolly time for the officers 
 and crew, but the outward-bound vessels oftentimes left the 
 port with sad-hearted sailors, just parted from their wives 
 and little ones, for a separation of a three or four years' V03-- 
 age, while the younger and more light-hearted seamen trusted 
 in a good catch of whale, and their share of oil money, 
 earned by the dangerous calling. 
 
 The Sunday previous to a whaling ship going on her mis- 
 sion, a religious service is generally held on board, by the 
 chaplain of the Seamen's Bethel, praying for the mariners' 
 safe return. To enumerate the numerous hair-breadth es- 
 capes of these hardy toilers of the sea would fill many a 
 volume ; suffice it to say, lucky owners of vessels, captains 
 and mates, and some few seamen, have made large sums in 
 their successful ventures of long cruises of whale-hunting. 
 At the present time, whaling ships are somewhat scarce at 
 the port of New Bedford, oil being found in large quantities 
 
10 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 in other regions on land. The Pennsylvania oil-wells have 
 taken the place, in most part, of whale oil, and their product 
 is unsurpassed in clearness and brilliancy, though the quality 
 of good sperm-whale oil is much favored by some buyers, 
 though of more expensive character. Quite a sight it is to 
 see a weather-stained and battered whaling vessel arrive in the 
 harbor (surrounded by sailing craft of all sizes), with flags 
 and streamers flying from the mast-head down to the deck, 
 the jolly Jack-tars nearly crazy with joy on nearing home 
 and those they love, after their long absence on such danger- 
 ous business. 
 
 New Bedford "Whalers. 
 
 When a whaling vessel is sighted, outside or in the inner 
 harbor, the " sharkers," as they are termed, put off in sail- 
 boats to meet the ship and board her, and, if possible, help 
 the sailors to spend their hard-earned moneys, by the pre- 
 tended solicitude for "poor Jack's" welfare, in advancing 
 notes, etc., at enormous interest, till the seamen's pay is set- 
 tled at the owner's or agent's office. Why the captains, 
 owners, or local authorities do not protect these sailors from 
 the " sharks " of their hard-won money, is a mystery difficult 
 to solve, for many people in New Bedford and elsewhere 
 have fattened on their victims' dangerously earned wages. 
 And, while the system is a disgrace to the community where 
 it exists, the corruptive influence over the poor deluded gulls 
 of seamen makes them reckless and improvident, and often- 
 times they spend their little all in riot and drunkenness, 
 ending occasionally in suicide, or shipping again to sea for 
 another long voyage, maybe with curses on their lips for 
 those that helped them off again ! But we are informed that 
 within these last few months the Marine Board has taken 
 more interest in the sailors' affairs, and protected them, in a 
 manner, from the greed of the "sharkers," by an enactment 
 made and provided, that, to a great extent, prohibits this 
 usury of the Jack-tar's money. We trust that this humane 
 protection will continue in the seamen's favor, on the return 
 from their hazardous voyages of whale fishery. 
 
 In instancing the danger and suffering of seamen, in the 
 risks of whale hunting, we may cite that of the whaler ship 
 " Napoleon," which sailed from New Bedford in February, 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 11 
 
 1885, with thirty-six men and officers, for the polar seas. 
 The following 5th of May they reached Cape Navarin, when 
 the vessel was crushed between some icebergs, and the ill- 
 fated mariners had to take to the boats, when most of the 
 survivors were either drowned or died of exhaustion on land- 
 ing among the humane tribes of friendly Indians. Mr. J. 
 B. Vincent, a native of Martha's Vineyard, the only survivor 
 
 New Bedford Whaling Wharf. 
 
 (a young man of strong physique) , in his narrative tells of 
 his adventures among the native Esquimaux of those bitter 
 regions of ice and snow, during the two long years of exile ; 
 how kindly he was treated by the natives, until finally res- 
 cued by an American revenue cutter. 
 
 The sufferings and hardships of these unfortunate whale 
 hunters in the arctic regions, when shipwrecked, are often- 
 
12 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 times very severe and fatal ; in this instance of the crushing 
 of the ship "Napoleon," they were unusually so. The first 
 officer of this unfortunate vessel was a native of New Bed- 
 ford, and a friend of the writer of this book, and for two 
 anxious years his young wife and relatives were in ignorance 
 of his fate, till the time of the rescue of Mr. Vincent. 
 
 The illustration of the whaling ship, just returned from a 
 long cruise in the polar seas, whale hunting, back to the port 
 of New Bedford, is a faithful representation by the artist ; 
 and the unloading of the numerous barrels of sperm oil and 
 cargo of bone is a scene often witnessed on the quays. The 
 wharves at the foot of Union and William Streets,— in fact, 
 all that section along the river's front is generally crowded 
 with whale oil, awaiting sale and shipment. The effluvia 
 arising from so much of the product of the whale is very 
 powerful, and has somewhat of a sickening character. 
 
 The battered whaling vessel of many storms, after deliver- 
 ing its cargo, is subject to numerous repairs, necessitated by 
 its three years' voyage, and the sails are drying in the brisk 
 wind, previous to overhauling. Some years ago, a large fire 
 took place on these wharves, of oil and bone, and great 
 alarm was felt for the safety of the town, by the inflammable 
 nature of the conflagration ; but the superior and well- 
 equipped fire department has hitherto been able to cope with 
 fires of all magnitude, by the prompt responding to calls and 
 the zeal and activity of its officers and men. 
 
 'T is a sight, in summer time, to see the big business of 
 the Old Colony Railway, in their excursion season, bringing 
 many thousands of visitors and tourists from all parts of 
 the Union, to the steamboat piers of New Bedford, en route 
 to Martha's Vineyard and other points along the coast. Bos- 
 ton and Providence send their quota of travellers to this 
 favored locality of starting- place of the highway ocean travel. 
 
 New Bedford has some fine residences ; many sea captains 
 and owners of vessels have built their houses and retired 
 into quiet life here, and the elegant, commodious dwellings 
 to be found in this old-fashioned town are not surpassed in 
 the State ; while the wealth in the city is very large, many 
 of the leading inhabitants being millionnaires. And though 
 the natives and residents are a good deal wrapped up in 
 themselves, and form a kind of clique in their society of one 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 13 
 
 another, yet there is occasional kindliness of manner, mixed 
 with their reservedness towards new-comers. 
 
 The most commanding thoroughfare is County Street, 
 where the yards and garden grounds are cultivated with 
 great care and luxuriance by many of the proprietors of 
 these fine residences ; the avenue of sturdy shade trees make 
 this locality popular in the hot season. A ramble along 
 Hawthorn Street and its suburbs, leading into the woods and 
 dells of the countryside, is delightful in the extreme, and, 
 though the falling of the leaf is a somewhat saddened sea- 
 son, in its perennial decay of vegetation, it } T et has a charm 
 of its own in the myriads of beautiful, variegated leaves of" 
 every hue, shape, and color. County Street, within some few 
 years, has added a noble sacred edifice to its number, that 
 of " New Grace Church," an Episcopalian structure of archi- 
 tectural beauty ; an excellent chime of bells was placed in 
 position in the belfry tower, a generous gift of a New Bed- 
 ford citizen. 
 
 The most prominent of recently built residences is that of 
 Mr. John D. Mandells (Hawthorn Street) ; the many gables 
 and tall chimueys of the quaint building remind one of the 
 old English country mansions. The house is built of curi- 
 ous-shaped rock masonry, while the low wall that surrounds- 
 the grounds is constructed of peculiar cobble-stones. This 
 modern-antique structure is said to have cost a large sum in 
 the erection. 
 
 The Wamsutta Mill, at the north end of the city, is one 
 of the largest in the United States ; its chief staple article 
 of manufacture is white cotton cloth, and is known all over 
 the world for its superiority and durability of texture. In 
 passing through the different sections of the building, the 
 noise is most deafening, by the constant rattle of the 
 machinery and whirr and noise of the myriads of running 
 gear and spindles. A very noticeable feature is the com- 
 paratively small number of mill hands employed in a build- 
 ing of its size, and standing on several acres of land, while 
 one beholds, apparently, so few men, women, and girls 
 attending to the feeding of the machines ; though, in reality, 
 we were informed, some twelve hundred hands were en- 
 gaged there in daily toil, before the new wing addition of 
 buildings. 
 
14 K AMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 The same might be said of the companion mill, called 
 "The Potomska," at the south end of the city ; both are 
 fine business emporiums, giving work to many — at small 
 wages, it is true, but as high as Fall River and elsewhere. 
 The close atmosphere of these mills has a sickening effect to 
 a visitor ; the extremely high temperature, made necessary for 
 the cotton-working, must be very trying to the employees' 
 health. In Fall River (the city of mills), when passing 
 through the town, one fine, warm day, it was surprising to 
 see thousands of mill hands, of both sexes, leaving their 
 work at six o'clock (evening), for home, most of them shiv- 
 ering along, beshawled and bundled up, on leaving the heated 
 rooms, as if it was midwinter, instead of summer time. 
 
 New Bedford, Mass., 1890. 
 
 Of the new busiuess premises of retail store trade, erected 
 of late years to the present date, many might be mentioned ; 
 from dilapidated shanties of old-fashioned stores and ancient 
 dwellings, lofty, red brick blocks of buildings have taken 
 their places. A stranger to New Bedford could scarceby 
 credit that such fine, expensive structures would possibly 
 pay for the erection, considering the size of the city. The 
 suburbs of this city have also got the building fever, thanks 
 to the extended line of horse-car travel to the outskirts. A 
 magnificent Odd Fellows' Hall, with stores under, has just 
 been completed, and in the same line of street a movement 
 is on foot to extend the dimensions of the post-office. The 
 commodious and well-patronized opera house, and variety the- 
 atre, Liberty Hall, amuse the citizens with all kinds of plays 
 in the theatrical season. The new railway station, at the foot 
 of Pearl Street, and facing the river front, is a substantial, 
 roomy, well-built depot, of cabled roof, and is much appre- 
 ciated by passengers, after the dingy, suffocating terminus of 
 olden times. An enclosure of grass sward in front of the 
 railway property gives a pleasant effect of beautiful green, as 
 the travellers emerge to and from the depot. There are sev- 
 eral hotels in New Bedford, the leading one of which is the 
 Parker House, a comfortable, home-like hotel, conducted for 
 some years by quite a popular caterer, Mr. Holder Brownell ; 
 and in the summer season, vachtsmen and visitors generally 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 15 
 
 are to be seen here, enjoying good fare, and having a good 
 time, previous to starting to their destinations of Cape Cod, 
 Martha's* Vineyard, and Nantucket. 
 
 The streets of New Bedford are in most part very cleanly, 
 being built on a hilly eminence. The constant rush of 
 water from rains or snow carries away all refuse into the 
 river, on low level below. As the business of the whaling 
 interest is decreasing here, other commercial enterprises 
 have sprung into existence, of various calibre, and where the 
 jolly Jack-tar, with his well-tanned cheeks, once rolled along 
 the wharf streets, now, to a great extent, the pale-faced mill 
 worker or skilled mechanic plods his weary routine of factory 
 life, backwards and forwards to his daily toil as a bread- 
 winner for his wife and children ; much has changed in a 
 few years, and new organizations have sprung rapidly ahead 
 and taken root, such as cotton, woollen, and yarn mills. 
 Various iron foundries of anchor and smith's work and 
 innumerable kinds of business have taken forward steps in 
 this ancient city, and ere long the home of the mariners by 
 the sea will be one vast beehive of manufacturing industry. 
 
 New Bedford has a growing population, and at June cen- 
 sus, 1890, enumerated 45,000 inhabitants, and has no less 
 than thirty churches to look after the welfare of the souls of 
 its people. The Sabbaths in the whaling city are calm, 
 peaceful, and enjoyable ; the meeting-house worshippers 
 attend in all kinds of weather, and are generally a numerous 
 congregation. 
 
 Yachting Season. 
 
 During the yachting season, New Bedford harbor is quite 
 a rendezvous for yacht clubs. The New York, Brooklyn, 
 New London, and Boston Yacht Clubs have in turn annu- 
 ally anchored in our waters, and have had several good- 
 natured rivalry races for prizes, during the summer season, 
 with our local club ; the day's pleasant, breezy enjoyment 
 generally ending with reception or dance at the commodious 
 club-house on the bridge, and oftentimes all yachts in the 
 harbor illuminate in the evening with Chinese lanterns, signal 
 lamps, etc. On such occasions, numerous row-boats, with 
 lady and gentleman occupants, diversify the scene by dart- 
 ing here and there (like will-o'-the-wisp) between the fleet, 
 
16 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 with their tiny signal lights, making quite a weird and roman- 
 tic effect. The visiting yachtsmen are invariably pleased 
 with the clean and well-kept thoroughfares of New Bed- 
 ford. 
 
 The annual review of the New Bedford Yacht Club is 
 always an enjoyable sight, and the local well-trimmed craft 
 invariably turn out in full force. The balcony of the club- 
 house on these occasions is generally filled with visitors, the 
 ladies predominating. The commodore's yacht anchors at a 
 point between the bridge and Palmer's Island, vice and rear 
 commodores' vessels taking their positions right and left of 
 the flag-ship. The yachts then sail in review, saluting as 
 they pass. The vessels then all sail down the bay, and the 
 view of the fleet yachts, with their outspreading sails, is one 
 of exceeding beauty as they dash through the frothy foam 
 to the buoy station, and return homeward. 
 
 Portuguese Masquerade. 
 
 The annual custom in Fayal and the islands of Portugal 
 is to hold, in every year, just before Lent, a masquerade or 
 fandango, — a weird kind of native dance in costume. By 
 the invitation of a Portuguese friend, the writer of these 
 pages was invited to witness at his house the gay carnival 
 gathering. On arriving at the Portuguese quarter, Water 
 Street, New Bedford, quite a number of people of both 
 sexes and all ages had assembled to await the arrival of the 
 procession. While waiting, some fun was evinced by the 
 lively young Portuguese ladies, who good-naturedly proposed 
 an impromptu quadrille, to the music of a banjorette. The 
 young men were bashful and hung back, so the writer was 
 archly asked by a dark-eyed young lady, dressed in blue, to 
 be her partner (it being leap-year), which was cheerfully 
 responded to ; the set was made up, and the primitive band 
 began its melody, when a sudden stoppage took place. 
 The maskers had arrived at the street door, to the number 
 of thirty, and were demanding admittance in the name of 
 the King of Portugal. The prince and princess led the way, 
 then followed knights, officers, and their ladies (all men), 
 according to their rank, and took their station on each side 
 of the long rooms, and with ornamental trimmed hoops in 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 17 
 
 their hands began the weird native dance, peculiar to their 
 country ; the music accompaniment being three guitars or 
 banjorettes, two triangles, and a flute whistle, its shrill 
 chords being the same for fully half an hour. The fandango 
 was kept briskly a-going, country-dance fashion, till the 
 sweat ran down below the masked faces, and an old negress 
 banjo-player's countenance shone like polished ebony, with 
 the warmth of the rooms and exertion of playing, while the 
 boy flutist declared to a friend, in confidence, that "his 
 wind was nearly gone." At length the chief captain blew 
 his signal whistle to cease the everlasting, monotonous dance, 
 and after a little breathing time, a ceremony was gone, 
 through, of some sort of acting play, in Portuguese dialogue. 
 The plot appeared to be in the person of a claimant, an 
 officer, for the hand of the princess, and who brandished his 
 sword fiercely, and offered to challenge 1o mortal combat 
 any one who disputed his claim. A great clamor of tongues 
 arose to annihilate this pretender, as the princess was already 
 affianced to a prince, and their nuptials were about to be 
 solemnized, when this madman of an officer put in his claim. 
 He was, however, speedily overpowered, bound hand and 
 foot, and incarcerated in one of the numerous castles close 
 by. The marriage then took place, without further inter- 
 ruption, the tiresome fandango began again, then the pre- 
 sentation of guests to the newly wedded pair ended this 
 somewhat curious masquerade dance. Comic characters of 
 clowns, old women, and rag babies enlivened the grotesque 
 and animated scene. Visitors of all ages lined the sides of 
 the rooms, standing on chairs, others crowding in passages 
 and staircases, to get a glimpse of the maskers, whose cos- 
 tumes were very fresh, new, and pretty, and the make-up of 
 the young men into young women was truly wonderful. 
 The kind host and hostess were very liberal in entertaining 
 the dancers with wine and cake and other refreshments, 
 before they left for home. We were informed that the 
 maskers call at three or four houses, by arrangement, on the 
 same evening, and go through the excessive fatigue till 
 early hours in the morning. 
 
18 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 "Taking the Crown" at a Portuguese Church. 
 
 On a Sunday in May, 1884, we witnessed a somewhat 
 novel ceremony at a Portuguese church in the south part of 
 New Bedford. The custom is, for seven consecutive Sab- 
 baths after Easter to hold religious services on behalf of the 
 serious-minded man or woman who may wish to become an 
 aspirant for salvation, assuming a kind of penance by 
 " taking the crown," as it is termed. On these seven Sun- 
 days special services and priestly exhortations are delivered, 
 with much effect ; extra choral singing and organ recitals, 
 aided by a Portuguese band of music, assist to make the 
 ceremonial one of very solemn iuterest. At the commence- 
 ment of the service, a procession is formed of the officiating 
 priests, choristers, and a committee of relatives and friends 
 in great number, some carrying lighted candles, others bear- 
 ing red canes of sacred office. They thus march to the 
 chancel, near the altar of the church, the band and organ 
 playing, and the singers chanting till all get to their places. 
 In the case of a lady suppliant for the crown, a procession 
 of girls, dressed in white, attend her as escort down the aisle. 
 When the formal addresses are delivered, interspersed with 
 some excellent singing by the ladies and gentlemen of the 
 choir, a benediction is given by the priest, the sterling-silver 
 crown is placed on the head of the religious aspirant, and 
 the procession reforms, and countermarches along the aisle 
 to the church door, amid much music and singing. We 
 may add that a week of prayer and preparation is enjoined 
 on the applicant, before having the crown ceremony. A 
 sumptuous repast is invariably given at the devotee's house 
 to his friends. 
 
 Fort Phcenix, Fairhaveu. 
 
 Fort Phoenix is an old, dismantled fortress, situated in the 
 town of Fairhaven, opposite to New Bedford ; the place used 
 to be in a very untidy and dirty condition, its chief inhabit- 
 ants being dogs and cats, chickens aud pigs, who made their 
 home amongst the old cannou and neglected gun-carriages. 
 From the summit of the battlemeut tower a fine view of the 
 river Acushnet aud Buzzard's Bav can be seen, and in sum- 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 19 
 
 mer time many picnics take place in the fragrant meadows 
 adjacent to the ruins of the ancient citadel, where clam-bakes, 
 baked beans, and other delicacies are eaten and enjoyed, with 
 Nature's covering for a table-cloth, generally winding up with 
 an impromptu dance, if a fiddler can be found to play a 
 lively jig or polka ; but since the extension of the pleasant 
 ride of the horse-cars to this retreat, a dance-hall and refresh- 
 ment restaurants have sprung up, with a band of music On 
 occasional evenings during the warm season. Fort Phoenix 
 and its neighborhood has become quite a noted place for 
 artists, — in sketching their marine subjects, — and a great 
 resort for the " lovers' ramble," when the soft nothings of the 
 hour are repeated over and over again, mostly to willing ears. 
 A stroll along the seashore, near the fort, is a very pleasant 
 recreation, with the sounds of the soft murmurs of the ocean, 
 the splashing of the tide as it ebbs and flows in its natu- 
 ral wont, and the watching of the white-winged sails of the 
 distant yachts scudding before the wind. The Point road, on 
 the other side of the river and commencement of bay (New 
 Bedford district), is quite a popular drive for all classes, and 
 this pleasant esplanade of some three miles around is much 
 enjoyed in fine weather. About midway of the Point is a 
 large fortress, in good condition, with numbers of cannon 
 and a quantity of ammunition in the citadel's enclosure. A 
 ride around the Point road to the head of the river, at 
 Acushuet Avenue, is shown to most visitors to the whaling 
 city. 
 
 Husking Party at Sconticut Neck. 
 
 "Then come with me, sweet Phillis, ray dear, my lovely bride, 
 We '11 jump into the wagon, and all take a ride." 
 
 A large New Bedford pleasure wagon, drawn by four gray 
 horses, conveyed a very merry party of some sixteen couples 
 of single and married folks to a New England husking, at 
 a pleasant country homestead, situated at Sconticut Neck, a 
 few miles from Fairhaven. Our well-appointed team soon 
 rattled us to our destination, and we then beheld a most 
 curious sight, of weird-like description : by the light of the 
 moon we saw numbers of friends and acquaintances of our 
 own, and numerous neighbors of the farmer's family, already 
 hard at work, at the husking, in the spacious barns and yards. 
 
20 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 The corn sheaves were piled quite high, and as the rows of 
 young men and maidens were busily employed, some good- 
 natured raillery was enjoyed whenever a red ear was found, 
 and the excitement and confusion of the girl, as the finder 
 tried to kiss the young lady nearest him as his reward, accord- 
 ing to custom at these gatherings. AVhen the husking was 
 all completed, we were invited to the farmhouse, where we 
 found a most sumptuous supper provided for us by our kind 
 entertainers, consisting of the time-honored pots of beans, 
 huge sides of corn beef, and pumpkin, apple, and other pies, 
 by the score. Coffee, tea, and light refreshments in variety 
 were there, all of which the visitors did ample justice to, 
 after the arduous duties of husking and flirting. The music 
 of four pieces, kindly furnished by a (New Bedford) friend 
 of the writer's, added much to the enjoyment of the evening ; 
 the merry, lively jigs and country dances were footed with 
 great earnestness to the time of the excellent band. Dan- 
 cing was kept up till the small hours of the morning, when all 
 returned, much gratified at such a pleasant gathering in the 
 old family homestead, and made the countryside echo again 
 with the gleesome song of " Wait for the Wagon, and We'll 
 all Take a Ride." 
 
 Sconticut Neck and Horse-Neck Beach. 
 
 Sconticut is a good locality for catching such fish as scup, 
 flat-fish, perch, etc. ; and to try our luck at the piscatory 
 sport, we borrowed a neighbor's boat, which proved to be a 
 leaky one, and compelled us to take off our shoes and socks, 
 — a great mistake. The lower limbs had better be incased 
 in their hose, than run the risk of the feet being burnt up by 
 a July sun while fishing in an old boat some four hours. If 
 the reader is amphibious, and used to being in salt water 
 very often, perhaps it does not matter about bare feet ; but 
 to a landsman, the exposure to the sun's rays and the briny 
 deep is a painful ordeal, causing much pain and swelling for 
 days afterwards. You had better be cautious, like the 
 " Widow Bedott," who, when asked to be baptized, said, 
 " No, indeed ; she had not been immersed all over for twenty 
 years, and she was sure she would not commence now." 
 Horse-Neck Beach, situated about fifteen miles from New 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 21 
 
 Bedford, and one of those charming inlets of Buzzard's Bay, 
 is much frequented in the warm season, for bathing and fish- 
 ing. A gentleman friend kindly invited the narrator to a 
 day's outing to Horse-Neck, and the recollection of that 
 pleasant recreation- is very refreshing. Starting at early 
 morning in my friend's well-appointed carriage, with a fast 
 roadster, we rattled briskly aloug, reaching" the beach in 
 good time for a shore dinner, cooked to perfection, and pre- 
 sided over by our genial hostess ; then a ramble on the 
 smooth, beautiful sand shore of the famed beach, with the 
 invigorating sea-breeze blowing in our faces, and in the com- 
 pany of friends whom we met there, gave quite a zest to our 
 visit. Our rested horse took us quickly homeward, passing 
 through the neighborhood of Nonquit and Dartmouth, in the 
 evening's twilight, which added much to the charm of such a 
 day's enjoyment, though of past memories. 
 
 Skating and Ice-Boats on Acushnet River. 
 
 During midwinter, the river Acushnet, stretching from New. 
 Bedford to Fairhaven (above the bridge) , is generally one 
 vast sheet of ice, and the season's carnival of skating is wel- 
 comed by thousands of young people of both sexes. The 
 merry performers on the skate appear to great advantage ; 
 ample space on this frozen water is given for the free display 
 of curves, twists, and fantastic evolutions of the swift 
 skaters ; the sharp, crisp air from off the bay fans the cheeks 
 of the young ladies to a rosy hue, adding quite a charm and 
 grace, in the exercise of this healthy enjoyment. When the 
 wind is favorable, the ice-boats spread their sails to the 
 breeze, and the primitive flying machine goes with great 
 velocity over the icy plateau, to the amusement and excite- 
 ment of young and old, who scream and laugh, in hilarious 
 glee, on being carried at the speed of a locomotive. The 
 coasting in America is a great pastime for boys and airls, and 
 others of larger growth ; day and night this somewhat dan- 
 gerous pastime is practised. The double-rippers, or large 
 sleds (when the snow is well hardened), filled with riders, 
 •dash down the hills and declivities at a tremendous pace, the 
 impetus being so great that the misfortune of a collision with 
 an obstruction sometimes is attended with serious results, of 
 broken limbs and occasional fatal hurts. 
 
22 
 
 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 A Cruise from New Bedford to Philadelphia, in Schooner 
 "Julien Nelson." 
 
 i "J 
 
 
 
 i i 
 
 
 if 
 
 A 
 
 
 
 __ JA 
 
 
 
 
 
 m 
 
 
 T ^g§» 
 
 
 W0^-'-~- 
 
 . 
 
 
 ' 
 
 Life on the ocean wave, 
 
 A home on the rolling deep, 
 Where the scattered waters rave, 
 
 And the winds their revels keep! 
 
 Old Song. 
 
 At early dawn, on Friday, June 12, 1885, we heaved up 
 anchor, on board the *' Julien Nelson," at the foot of Union 
 Street, New Bedford, Mass., bound for the Quaker City. By 
 the kind courtesy of captain and mate, the writer of these 
 pages was invited for the cruise. Nothing could exceed the 
 beauty of that glorious June morning, as the vessel left her 
 moorings to drift in the stream, preparatory to getting into 
 the bay. The early sun's rays darted in vivid and playful 
 slanting lines across the waters of the harbor, and the hush 
 and quiet of the yet unawakened day lent a serenity of re- 
 pose to the surroundings on shore. With the freshening of 
 the wind, the foresail and mainsail were set to the breeze, 
 and, as we sailed quickly along the channel course, the order 
 for jibs to be unfurled was promptly obeyed, and we speed- 
 ily made for the bay, the sparkling waves parting, as our 
 gallant vessel dashed through the seethy foam. As we 
 ploughed the limpid waters of Buzzard's Bay, quite a fleet of 
 vessels was our company for miles, with their white, out- 
 stretched wings fully sot, beating out for the ocean. 
 
 The first night at sea, to a landsman, is generally an uncom- 
 fortable one, though, through the captain's kindness, I was 
 provided with the best state-room on board the snug craft, 
 yet the unpleasant motion made one crave for the morning's 
 light. At daybreak we sighted Block Island, the large roll- 
 ing waves, as usual in that locality, being very wild and tur- 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 23 
 
 bulent ; the same evening we brushed by Fire Island, the 
 wind still ahead. On Sunday 'morning, a bright and lovely 
 day, we skirted the Jersey shore, and had a magnificent view 
 of Long Branch, with its pretty cottages and superb hotels. 
 It was quite refreshing to watch the shore, and all the moving 
 vehicles and animated nature thereon, giving a sense of 
 security, as it were, of being in vicinity of the land. As 
 the wind changed, we had to make for the open sea again, 
 with its long, measured, heaving swell," until we reached 
 Barnegat lighthouse, a warning beacon to mariners, on account 
 of the shoals in its neighborhood. The remains of the ill- 
 fated steamer " Guadaloupe," wrecked on this dangerous 
 sand bar, December, 1884, were still there, in the fastness of 
 the reef, when we sailed by, — another sad lesson, like the 
 "City of Columbus" calamity, only happily without loss of 
 life, the sixty passengers and crew being saved. Monday, 
 still out at sea, steering for Five Fathom Bank lightship, 
 twenty miles from Cape May ; the wind light, causing a vio- 
 lent slapping of sails, and a very unpleasant rolling of the 
 vessel, and the sun's intense rays pouring down their fiery heat 
 on our devoted heads. The only escape from this was to 
 find relief in the well-appointed cabin, and try to enjoy a 
 read, or attack a meal prepared for us by the excellent stew- 
 ard. — the healthy sea-breeze making all hands do full justice 
 to the generous table of viands. The wind freshening, we 
 got into sight of Cape May. 
 
 On that evening, while in the bay, the atmosphere became 
 almost stifling, and the sky cloudy to total blackness, and 
 as night closed in, one of those fearful summer squalls took 
 place. The constant, vivid, bewildering flashes of lightning 
 in a manner enveloped us (as it were) in its electric embrace. 
 The whole firmament, right down to the horizon, appeared to 
 be alive with the electric fluid, appearing as sheets of flame, 
 interspersed with loud, booming claps of thunder, echoing 
 along sea and shore with growling murmurs of solemn awe 
 and grandeur. The rain lent its aid of discomfort to this 
 scene of wildness on the ocean, and the numbers of vessels 
 surrounding us caused the captain to promptly order the 
 crew to drop anchor and furl sails, to prevent a probable 
 collision amongst the fleet in the darkness, except when the 
 lightning showed us our dangerous proximity. In a few 
 
24 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 iours the storm ceased, and the somewhat alarmed passenger 
 and weary crew went below and enjoyed a partial night's 
 rest. The sail up the bay, and skirting Delaware Break- 
 water into the river for nearly one hundred miles, was very 
 enjoyable all day Tuesday ; on each side of us were the 
 Jerse}' and Delaware shores, and the beautiful marine' resi- 
 dences and farm-houses, surrounded by charming gardens, 
 were very refreshing to the beholder, after so much sky and 
 water. 
 
 As we closed our journey up the Delaware River, the 
 amount of business in lumber and coal seemed to be im- 
 mense ; all kinds of craft, outward and homeward bound, 
 appeared always on the move, from the well-appointed 
 steamer to the humblest vessel afloat. 
 
 To attempt to describe Philadelphia would almost fill a 
 volume ; the city is teeming with historic interest (and will 
 be spoken of in the section devoted to the Quaker City). 
 Girard College and grounds ; Fairmount Park and its mag- 
 nificent conservatory ; the Zoological Garden near the flowing 
 Schuylkill River ; the colossal public buildings of massive 
 granite and white marble, then in process of erection, bid- 
 ding fair to rival in superb architecture and execution of 
 fine masonry any other city in the Union ; the handsome 
 and commodious railway station of the Pennsylvania com- 
 pany, close by, is another of the great improvements of Phil- 
 adelphia ; the spacious and well-appointed new post-office is 
 still another of the marvels of progress in the City of Broth- 
 erly Love ; the mint, for the manufacture of Uncle Sam's 
 coin, was also taken in for inspection, with the above places, 
 as sights full of interest, by the New Bedford voyager, and 
 he closed his week on shore by a visit to Independence Hall, 
 in company with a New Orleans excursion party. 
 
 On our homeward journey down the Delaware River once 
 more, we espied numerous vessels laying inside the break- 
 water, waiting for the tide or tug-boats to propel the crafts 
 to their destination. The return sail to New Bedford was 
 very enjoyable ; sunny days and fair winds prevailed nearly 
 all the way, glorious sunsets of eventide, winding up with 
 the bright moon's rays at night. The only thing wanting to 
 make the two weeks' cruise complete, was the charming soci- 
 ety of some lady passengers. 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 25 
 
 Camp-Meetings at Martha's Vineyard. 
 
 The well-known Martha's Vineyard, or its more modern 
 title, " Cottage City," is perhaps the best regulated and most 
 patronized of all the revivalists' meetings in America. The 
 Methodists and Baptists carry the sway hereabouts, in their 
 large tabernacles of worship, so that the old custom of tented 
 meetings and tented homes is scarcely ever beheld now. 
 But, as an observer of religious observances, we think the 
 camp-meetings, as a real benefit to sincere conversion, quite 
 questionable, as the mode of converted fervor is too spas- 
 modic, and not lasting in its zeal. Yachting, boating, fish- 
 ing, and flirting form one part of the amusement of the hour 
 to some attenders ; while bathing at all times, and reading 
 seaside novels help to pass the remainder of the livelong day 
 to others, seated in comfortable rocking-chairs. Thus do 
 the genuine camp-followers get through their religious vaca- 
 tion, interspersed with occasional attendance at meeting, 
 when a noted preacher or evangelist singer comes from 
 Boston or elsewhere. 
 
 During the season an amateur fox hunt sometimes takes 
 place ; that is to say, a bag with anise-seed is dragged 
 along the ground, to entice the fox-hounds to follow the 
 trail. It oftentimes happens, however, that some dogs, 
 exasperated at not finding a fox, set to work on a flock of 
 sheep, worrying or killing some fifteen or more, and maim- 
 ing many others, causing much hard feeling amongst the 
 farmers, who sally out on their land, armed with shot-guns, 
 clubs, and pitchforks, to protect their animals ; and one 
 old lady, it is recorded, lately saved her pet lamb from 
 destruction by using a large broom freely and forcibly on 
 the heads and bodies of the murderous hounds. 
 
 The monotony of the life at Martha's Vineyard, unless 
 some lively society is kept up, must be very undesirable for 
 any length of time. Miniature lodging-houses are built 
 along lonely avenues, where the doors of the sleeping cham- 
 bers are generally left open, and the beds visible in the best 
 room, or anywhere else to secure an honest penny, in full 
 view of the passeis-by. The sandy soil here causes intense 
 heat during the day, but cool breezes oftentimes blow over 
 
"26 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 the island at eventide ; and the qniet gloom of these cottage 
 hives is somewhat curious. The sojourners suffer all sorts 
 of inconveniences in their temporary homes, because it is 
 called " camp life," and considered fashionable, and the right 
 thing to do. The only life in the whole affair appears to be 
 upon the arrival of a New Bedford or Nantucket steamer ; 
 'tis then the "campers" and hotel visitors turn out en 
 •masse, either to welcome their friends or ridicule the seasick 
 voyagers. 
 
 The grand wind-up of the season, in the latter part of 
 August, is the great event of the summer vacation. An 
 extensive illumination of most of the cottages all over the 
 bluffs is certainly an impressive sight, particularly in some 
 of the avenues where the Chinese lanterns have full sway ; 
 and the liberal supply of fireworks for two hours, and some 
 bands of music playing, make this evening quite a gala 
 night, the more so if the weather is propitious. Visitors 
 come in thousands from all parts to see this outside show, 
 and the confusion and extortionate demands for lodgings at 
 hotels and cottages could I »e told with much fun. Suffice it 
 to say, one night at this gala time is experience enough 
 in the makeshift cottage life, sleeping in rooms not so large 
 as a closet. Inconvenient as that may be, it is preferable 
 to walking the island, as some have had to do, on illumina- 
 tion night. Before closing this subject, allow the writer to 
 speak of the bathing of this place. It is no unusual sight 
 to see a man emerge from a cottage in some avenue, in full 
 bathing costume of short drawers, and walk in a stately man- 
 ner to the shore, with umbrella over head and cigar in mouth, 
 as proudly as the South Sea Islander did who stole the top 
 boots and cocked hat of a naval officer, and then strutted with 
 them on, as if full dressed for a dandy. The lady bathers 
 generally have water-proof cloaks over their bathing cos- 
 tumes when leaving their cottages, and look a little more 
 becoming in their costumes than their lords and masters. 
 
 A fine outlook can be seen from the Sea View House, of 
 the ocean, on a clear day, which is very refreshing, particu- 
 larly if it is breezy ; and as the eye wanders on the distant 
 line of the horizon it is then, with placid calmness, that the 
 busy man can settle down on the hotel piazza with a fragrant 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 27 
 
 havana, and seem to forget, for a while, common business 
 life, and its many attendant anxieties. 
 
 Martha's Vineyard is the largest of the islands of New 
 England, being twenty miles long, and at its widest point 
 ten miles across. Distant from Boston by rail and boat, 
 seventy-eight miles. The western extreme of the island, ter- 
 minating in Gay Head, is wild and precipitous, but fashion 
 liking the eastern end best, has set the seal of its approval 
 upon the bluff that looks out towards Nantucket. It is no 
 uncommon thing for from fifty to sixty thousand persons to 
 be congregated here in the height of the season. Across a 
 deeply indentiug bayou, or iulet, is the village of Vineyard 
 Haven, where tourists find rest and repose in its quiet locality. 
 
 Gay Head. 
 
 Gay Head is situated on the western point of Martha's 
 Vineyard, about twenty-five miles' pleasant sail from New 
 Bedford. The place is noted for its lighthouse, and the 
 powerful lenses of thick cut-glass of the lantern or apparatus 
 for lighting ; they are among the finest in the United States, 
 and were on view at the International Exhibition, London, 
 England, 1862. This magnificent luminary can be seen on 
 clear nights as far distant as the Point road, New Bedford. 
 
 Gay Head has for its inhabitants a tribe of civilized Indi- 
 ans, settled there some two generations ago ; these people 
 appear to be very industrious, and civil to strangers, gaining 
 their livelihood by tilling the rugged farming land on the 
 island, but their best means of existence is by fishing on the 
 coast ; lobsters abounding there in great numbers. 
 
 When the summer excursion steamers from New Bedford, 
 or elsewhere, made visits to Gay Head, the Indian fishermen 
 used to be notified beforehand to be in readiness with their 
 large whale-boats, — the steamboat company formerly em- 
 ploying these men to convex' the passengers ashore in their 
 strong nondescript whale or surf boats, as there was no pier 
 or landing place for large craft then. There was much 
 amusement amongst the ladies, particularly the elder ones, 
 they being afraid the dusky fishermen might upset them in 
 the water, or run away with their fair selves to the adjacent 
 
28 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 wigwams or huts ; the more prudish of the excursionists 
 positively declined to land, perhaps on account of decorum 
 or timidity : but the young ladies made no demurs, but rather 
 liked the excitement of being rowed a few hundred yards by 
 the 'dear civilized Indians," and the fun of being handed in 
 and out of the boat by a handsome young savage added a 
 good deal of zest to the little romance of adventure These 
 peaceful half-breeds and their squaws and children sell spe- 
 cimens -of the beautiful-colored clays to be found on the 
 overhanging bluffs. The view from the peaks and various 
 highest points looking down on the ravines of the magnificent- 
 colored clays of the cliffs is really grand, and alone worthy 
 of a trip to these shores. 
 
 The captain of the steamer " Monohanset" was always very 
 kind on these and similar excursions, and invariably took us 
 a wide circuit around the Bluffs in sailing homeward, so that 
 a good view from all points of interest was obtainable, and 
 oftentimes the sight was one of great beauty. As the chan- 
 nel between the Vineyard and the main land is the highway 
 of all steamer traffic between New York and the South and 
 eastern parts of New England, the scene at all times is ani- 
 mated, and when a storm threatens, Vineyard Haven is alive 
 with ocean craft of all sorts and sizes. Since writing the 
 above, a very nice, commodious pier has been erected by the 
 steamboat company at Gay Head, thus doing away with the 
 services of our Indian friends and their emoluments ; but 
 true to their nature, they remain perfectly stoical in the mat- 
 ter, and with folded arms and solemn mien witness the land- 
 ing and embarkation of passengers with perfect indifference. 
 
 " City of Columbus " Shipwreck. 
 
 Though the summer season of 1883 was very enjoyable in 
 the vicinity of Ga} r Head, the reverse was the case in the 
 winter time of January, 1884, when the lamentable ship- 
 wreck of the ill-fated steamship " City of Columbus " took 
 place on the reef of locks called Devil's Bridge, a dangerous 
 locality, supposed to be well known to mariners generally ; 
 yet at 3.45 a. m., Friday, Jan. 18, the doomed steamer, on 
 her voyage from Boston to Savannah, was steered to her 
 destruction on the reef, in sight of the lighthouse off Gay 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 29 
 
 Head, and one hundred and nineteen human beings lost, out 
 of a number of one hundred and forty-two passengers and 
 crew. The heart-rending and harrowing details of the disas- 
 ter are no doubt in the memories of my readers, as an event 
 which shook the community of Eastern New England and 
 elsewhere with feelings of dismay, sorrow, and bereavement. 
 To analyze this shocking calamity would be too painful to 
 reiterate in all its melancholy bearings ; but the wailing cries 
 of " Help ! Help ! " on that wintry January morning, from 
 the unfortunate passengers and seamen, were unheeded, 
 except by the sobbing of the waves and the hoarse cry of 
 the storm-dashed breakers, as they again and again fed their 
 fury on the devoted bodies of the lost and the living that 
 clung so many weary hours to the masts of the ill-fated 
 steamer. In the Lord's name, let us draw a veil over this 
 picture of dreadful desolation and wholesale slaughter of 
 over one hundred souls, and in pity's sake try to believe that 
 those in responsible authority must have been dazed, be- 
 witched, bewildered, or something worse, when they deliber- 
 ately, on a moonlight night, steered the doomed vessel and 
 its living, human freight to instant destruction, as if those 
 in command of the ill-fated steamer were lured on to the 
 rocks by some wicked sirens of the deep, in thus crushing 
 Out the lives of so man}- souls in so culpable a manner. 
 Not one woman or child saved, out of the number of thirty- 
 four on board, does not speak very favorably for the 
 bravery or humanity of the male survivors, in this age of 
 chivalry towards the weak and helpless, though it may be 
 some allowance must be made for the powerless state of the 
 frantic men in their lamentable lack of discipline, the sud- 
 denness of the calamity paralyzing all efforts towards duty 
 or order ; and the motto, " Every one for himself," was truly 
 exemplified here, when nearly twoscore of poor women and 
 children were ruthlessly swept away into a watery grave. 
 The cold, pitiful, steely moon's rays must have looked on a 
 sad and sickening scene, when mothers were dashed from 
 their offspring by the cruel waves, amid hurried leave-takings 
 of husbands and wives, brothers and sisters, each clinging in 
 their last earthly embrace of death agony ; and as the rush- 
 ing waters close 1 around them, a wild, piercing cry echoed 
 
30 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 far and wide, almost, as it were, cursing those whose wilful 
 negligence had brought about this tragedy of the sea. 
 
 The writer of these pages had an interview with Capt. 
 Gabrielson and his officers, of the revenue cutter " Dexter," 
 while she was in New Bedford harbor. It may be remem- 
 bered by the reader that the steamer " Dexter" was cruising 
 around Newport station when the captain and his men, at 
 early dawn, espied the wreck of the " Columbus," and the 
 half-frozen men clinging to the masts. Steaming quickly as 
 far as they dared go near the rocks, brave Lieut. Rhodes and 
 other officers and men plunged into the seething waters 
 several times, and rescued all the lives they could ; in which 
 humane work they were ably assisted by the Gay Head 
 Indians in their staunch whale-boats, on that bitter, disas- 
 trous morning. 
 
 In concluding this sad episode of Gay Head, the finishing 
 stanza of Mrs. E. E. Brown's admirable poem of the "Co- 
 lumbus " disaster may be read with interest by my readers : — 
 
 " For ages to come will our seamen dread 
 The terrible rocks around Gay Head. 
 In low, hushed voice, and with hearts of fear. 
 They will speak of the wreck that was buried here. 
 In the midnight wntch they will sit and tell 
 The tale that all of us know so well : 
 Of the many who sank 'neath the waters blue; 
 Of heroes who rescued the struggling few." 
 
 Nantucket and Siasconset. 
 
 Nantucket rests, lonely and remote, far out upon the 
 ocean, and is a pleasant sail of some twenty miles from 
 Martha's Vineyard, — a charming island to spend a summer 
 vacation in. Some good hotels and boarding-houses abound 
 here. The townspeople are of a primitive, kindly race, and 
 pleased to make acquaintance with strangers. Captains and 
 owners of whaling ships and other vessels have located in 
 this place, to spend the remainder of their days, and the 
 hardy, healthy-looking toilers of the sea may be found every 
 day at the wharf-side, amongst the sail-boats, telling yarns 
 to old cronies of their experiences many years ago, and 
 prophesying fair or foul weather on the morrow. 
 
 Nearlv all the business done in Nantucket is connected 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 31 
 
 with the sea, or with summer boarders, who come here 
 every season in great numbers. Some of the old captains' 
 stories of the severe winters on this island are of a pitiful 
 nature. Oftentimes six weeks have elapsed before a steamer 
 could enter the harbor, on account of the ice. With the 
 mails, etc., cut off from the mainland, these isolated people 
 ha\e to content themselves as best they can. 
 
 A lighthouse is erected on the part nearest the dangerous 
 shoal water of the harbor, to warn the mariner of his peril ; 
 for in stirring business times, years ago, wrecks were of 
 common occurrence. There was a time when Nantucket was 
 a rendezvous for a vast fleet of whalers. Those were busy 
 days, before the discovery of coal oil, when the whale-ships 
 would be home after a four years' cruise, riding at anchor 
 outside, waiting to be lightered by the "camels" over the 
 sand-bar into port. In these later years Nantucket has 
 taken a new lease of prosperity, for visitors have found its 
 worth in the invigorating breezes ; handsome villas are being 
 erected on its bluffs, and success seems once more to per- 
 vade the island. The bluefish in these waters are very pro- 
 lific in the season, being caught both by sail-boat and from 
 the surf. The sport in July and the following months is 
 quite exciting. From the south shore, or Surfside, may be 
 seen daily a long line of men and boys, old hands and 
 amateur fishermen, throwing their lengthy trolling lines be- 
 yond the breakers. Of course, the natives can throw the 
 furthest (lasso fashion), and consequently catch most and 
 largest of the bluefish. It is no uncommon afternoon's 
 catch to take as man} 7 as one hundred fish per man, if he is 
 an experienced sportsman. A scene of some excitement to 
 the novice is to see the fine, struggling twelve-pounders 
 dragged through the surfy water to the beach in such quick 
 succession ; it is enough to bewilder a non-fisherman or 
 landsman. 
 
 Nantucket is famed for its fish of delicious flavor, and we 
 can fairly testify to the epicurean treat they were to us in 
 quality and freshness ; the size and numbers of which would 
 have amazed our old angler friend, "Isaak Walton," of 
 years ago, in his gentle but slow piscatory rambles in the 
 quiet nooks of the English rivers. 
 
32 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 Such a glut of bluefish are captured in the season in and 
 about Nantucket, that one cent a pound is all that is offered 
 in the town, but more is gained by sending them to the main- 
 land, and each steamer carries out a good cargo every trip. 
 The late Mr. O'Connor, of the jurisprudence law reputation, 
 from New York, had a fine mansion built on the cliffs. 
 The outlook from the summit of the residence is one of # the 
 best views on the island. The beneficial sea breeze is here 
 felt in all its healthy intensity, and one is not surprised at 
 the choice of the invalided and aged proprietor of the hand- 
 some dwelling preferring his home on the bluffs to any other. 
 The breezes from the ocean bestow such life-giving, health- 
 restoring, and invigorating aspirations of strength, that the 
 sojourner at Nantucket cannot be a long time in precarious 
 health when that splendid natural tonic, the breath of the 
 ocean, is so soothing, pure, and- strengthening, in its foamy 
 beauty, to the invalid and others in want of rest, quiet, and 
 bracing sea air. The surf at South Shore, when the wind is 
 favorable for it, is a sight of surpassing grandeur. In the 
 thousands of miles one has travelled, this magnificent scene, 
 in its peculiar style, surpasses all (Niagara excepted). For 
 many leagues, the grand, unbroken line of surf-breakers roll 
 proudly and defiantly on the beautiful sandy beach, each 
 succeeding one of the incoming huge waves trying, as it 
 were, to outdo the other, in their superb velocity of forming, 
 breaking, and receding, leaving the fine, sandy promenade 
 immediately dry. Many hundreds of visitors in summer 
 time take the little railway ride from Nantucket to Surfside, 
 to view this famed, oceanic, natural sight. Once a year 
 an agricultural fair is held, adjacent to the town. The 
 selection of the site for the fair-grounds was charming, but 
 the poor, thin-looking cattle were pitiful to behold ; and so 
 few in number, any one, to look at the dejected animals 
 munching corn-stalks ravenously, would have imagined a 
 famine to have happened on the island. To call this gath- 
 ering of a few lean cows a cattle fair, is about as consistent 
 as calling a good-sized farm the universe ; but as the drouth 
 of the past season ( 1882) , some farmers explained, was the 
 cause of the poor exhibition, we trust the next summer's will 
 be more bountiful. Some few good-sized vokes of oxen 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 33 
 
 were here, and they, like the other animals, were devouring 
 corn-cobs with avidity. 
 
 Returning from the fair-grounds, we ascended the tower 
 of the highest church in the city, and most unfortunately 
 arrived on the staircase of the belfry just as the great bell 
 of the clock began to strike the hours : it sounded so loud 
 and struck so suddenly that we nearly lost our balance, and 
 were almost precipitated down the steep stairs. On the 
 summit of the tower is a lookout room, guarded by two old 
 men, whose duty it is to take turns in watching over the 
 island, night and day ; in case of tire, to give the alarm ; for a 
 splendid view is here of the island and ocean. On descend- 
 ing, we met the town crier (a noted character) peering 
 through the crevices of the slats of the belfry tower, on the 
 lookout for any passing events, such as an overdue steamer 
 or a strange sail, — in fact, anything of an interesting or 
 sensational kind. — which is duly chronicled in due time, 
 making the town resound with the echo of his tin horn and 
 unintelligible, cracked voice, telling of wonderful news. A 
 few days after our leaving Nantucket, President Arthur and 
 suite landed here for a brief visit of a few hours' duration, 
 the government steamer " Dispatch " lying at anchor outside 
 the bar meanwhile. What the eccentric town crier could 
 have said then, would be difficult to state in these pages ; one 
 can only imagine he must have almost choked himself with 
 excitement and importance dining the stay of the chief mag- 
 istrate of this vast continent on the breezy island. The 
 presidential party was taken, by prominent citizens, to Surf- 
 side and other points of interest in Nantucket, all of which 
 they were well pleased with, and enjoyed very much. 
 
 Since writing the above, various improvements and ex- 
 tensions have taken place around and about Nantucket. 
 'J he narrow-gauge railwa}- line has been extended from the 
 steamboat wharf to Siasconset via Surf side. The quaint old 
 town of 'Sconset, of sandy-soil reminiscences, is brought 
 within easy access to visitors and others The breakwater, 
 when completed, will be a valuable aid to mariners. 
 
 And ere we close of breezy Nantucket, let us remark the 
 strong feeling of Sabbath observance and reverence that was 
 very noticeable amongst many of the sailing masters of this 
 
34 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 island. Very few owners of sailing craft unfurl their sails- 
 on Sunday ; the bronzed, weather-beaten, and rigid-looking 
 sailor countenances shake their heads, " No," in answer to 
 Sunday trips. A deep respect is evinced by some of these 
 mariners for a reverence of the Sabbath Day, — a grateful 
 feeling of thanks for another week of safety and preserva- 
 tion from the perils of the deep, and they thus wish to keep 
 holy the sacred day by quietude and restful behavior. 
 Rough and somewhat uncouth as these Nantucket seamen 
 are, yet they have hearts within them that recognize the 
 Divine power ; and no class of men have better opportuni- 
 ties of judging, when on the ocean, of the might and strength 
 of the Almighty's will, than they have, when brought into 
 contact with a stormy sea, and the wonderful contrast of sun- 
 shine and a still water, thus having ever vividly before their 
 minds the beneficent power of the great Ruler of elements. 
 
 Nantucket Jail. 
 
 An obscure-looking building — once a farmhouse, of small 
 dimensions — is termed, in fancy parlance, '-the jail of the 
 island." The building must have been made near one hun- 
 dred years ago, of rough-hewn logs, and then modernized 
 from its antiquity by being sheathed or shingled. On our 
 entering the yard, a young woman approached us, key in 
 hand, for us to inspect the Nantucket prison. She explained 
 that her father was away that morning, and no prisoners 
 were confined there at present, and that the place was simple, 
 whitewashed rooms, with barred windows and very low- 
 studded ceilings, all of which we found quite true in its 
 veracity. 
 
 Since our visit to Nantucket, quite a noted prisoner is 
 incarcerated there, a William H. Chadwick, who was the 
 trusted cashier of the Pacific Bank of that town. The em- 
 bezzlement of sixty thousand dollars has caused his deten- 
 tion in the county jail. Though the imprisonment is almost 
 a sinecure, the food of the prisoner coming from the keeper's 
 table, he can go out in the yard in the daytime, — that 
 means there is no confinement, — or go further in the town, 
 if he chooses, as he is trusted by the keeper, but, of course, 
 must be in bv nightfall, and not go off the island. 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 35> 
 
 The saddest part of this narrative is the fall of a once 
 honest man ; and the anguish of an invalid wife and the slur 
 of the world on the man's innocent children are not pleasant 
 mementos to the embezzler's mind, even though his island 
 captivity is not a very severe affair ; yet the stain is there, of 
 the once trusted official. 
 
 'Sconset. 
 
 Not all the transient life of the island is visible at Nan- 
 tucket village, by any means ; there is a quantity of it at 
 'Sconset. 'Sconset is seven miles distant from the landing 
 wharf, and when first discovered by the tourist who ventured 
 so far, was a village inhabited by fishermen, a hamlet that 
 was of little one-story boxes of houses, all shingled down 
 the sides, and centring upon a town pump, where it was so 
 sandy that the carts were furnished with barrels for wheels. 
 Apropos of this, the writer and an artist friend lately drove 
 over from Nantucket through a sort of scrub, or miniature 
 pine, forest, without a vesture of team road to 'Sconset, with 
 the express intention to see the old place, and sketch the 
 barrel team. After some research, one of the antiques was 
 unearthed, and drawn out into daylight, when the artist was 
 in the seventh heaven of delight at finding such a prize for 
 a sketch in his coming picture ; while he worked, the narra- 
 tor walked along the fine sandy beach, and explored. The 
 bathing-ground appeared very precipitous, and somewhat 
 dangerous, running steeply down into the sea, but it did not 
 deter young men and maidens from venturing in the delight- 
 ful surf. Ropes, fastened to stout stakes, are provided for 
 the venturesome bathers to lay hold of, and prevent them- 
 selves from being carried away by the undertow. 
 
 Our artist friend sketched the large lighthouse on the 
 cliffs, and finished the sand cart, also drawing some groups 
 of figures on the sands, winding up by strolling amongst the 
 fishermen's homes, now chiefly tenanted by city folks in the 
 season ; we then took our leave of old-fashioned 'Sconset, 
 got into the carriage, lighted another cigar, and drove home- 
 ward to the hotel at Nantucket, with good appetites to enjoy 
 a portion of broiled bluefish and other condiments. 
 
 During our afternoon visit to 'Sconset, one of those fitful,. 
 
36 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 unpleasant, vapory fogs at intervals enveloped the place 
 with its shadowy embrace, so much so that the artist could 
 not thoroughly see his views uecessary for what he wanted ; 
 the fog cleared off somewhat, then came on again, more vio- 
 lent than ever, making our ride home a chilly one. In the 
 fall of the year the island is occasionally visited with this 
 misty pest, in the same way as at New Bedford, New York, 
 and other localities ; beiug situated near the water, the fog at 
 times continues for days without intermission. 
 
 The river Thames, London. England, in the autumn of 
 the year, has the same misery to put up with, as in America ; 
 though it is oftentimes remarked in the United States that 
 fogs are only to be found in the Old Country, any one who 
 has travelled some on this continent will find that the New 
 Country is blessed with the unpleasant infliction, as well as 
 the other side of the Atlantic. 
 
 A continuation of the Nantucket & Surfside Railway at 
 'Sconset now gives the visitor a quicker and less expensive 
 route, though the ride by team is preferable to a lover of 
 Nature ; in every case where convenient, in the rambles of 
 the author, he ever preferred the primitive coach, stage, 
 buggy, or even sleigh riding, as a diversified change from 
 speed} r locomotive car travelling. Of course, we are speak- 
 ing now of short journeys. 
 
 Wauwinet. 
 
 Wauwinet is a delightful sail of one hour's duration across 
 the harbor from Nantucket's landing place . A pleasant, safe, 
 well-managed little craft sails morning and afternoon (Sun- 
 days excepted) to this seaside resort. Wauwinet is noted for 
 its shore dinners, and the comfortable, cosy, primitive hotel is 
 generally crowded with boarders in the season, — regular and 
 transient. The little cruise across, beiug generally a smooth 
 pleasure ride, is patronized a good deal, — particularly by the 
 ladies and children ; but sometimes, by adverse winds, the re- 
 turn is delayed to some three hours, by tacking ; and if it 
 blows somewhat fresh, the sea becomes rough and unpleasant ; 
 generally speaking, however, the sail is delightfully smooth. 
 Two fishing-lines were lent by the captain to the passengers, 
 and a few bluefish were caught on the journey, the voracious 
 
RAMBLES* IN AMERICA. 37 
 
 fish snapping at a large piece of. bright metal, the hook being 
 attached to it, and in the velocity of the trolling has the 
 appearance of :i bait — the delusion unhappily often ends 
 fatally for Mr. Bluefish. While strolling along the beach 
 at Wauwinet, we saw a sand shark of large size lying 
 there, rotting in the noonday sun ; these monsters abound 
 here in these waters, but are not the species of man-eating 
 sharks; some fishermen in Nantucket occasionally catch 
 them, as the livers are considered good for different medical 
 purposes. 
 
 Woods Holl and Quisset. 
 
 The channel steamer's route from New Bedford to Oak 
 Bluffs and Nantucket has to be made through a somewhat 
 narrow, dangerous, rocky highway called "Woods Holl"; 
 this portion of Buzzard's Bay is noted for its deep, stony berls 
 of rock ; and only experienced pilots or captains that know 
 the tides and currents care to cross this chasm of water and 
 granite. With such velocity does the water dash through and 
 around these rocky beds that the rudders of vessels are 
 scarcely manageable, and no steamer or sailing vessel 
 scarcely ever ventures through Woods Holl at night, but go 
 round by wa} T of Quick's Hole, some nine miles farther, to 
 avoid the miniature " Hell Gate." We trust, however, as 
 millions of dollars have been granted by Senate and Con- 
 gress for the improvement of rivers and harbors of the 
 United States, that a small portion may be used to clear a 
 free passage in this most needed place as soon as possible. 
 About three miles farther on from Woods Holl landing is a 
 verj 7 pretty isolated little inlet or small bay — Quisset, form- 
 ing a snug harbor for yachtsmen on a short cruise to run in 
 and spend the evening, previous to the morning's sail. Good 
 hotel accommodation is here, where some nice dinners are 
 served, as the writer and his friends can testify ; also 
 some excellent fishing is to be had in these waters ; and for 
 quiet-minded individuals and invalids, we would recommend 
 Quisset as just the place to go to for a pleasant short vaca- 
 tion, to rest the mind and invigorate the body by the healthy 
 sea breeze blowing across the land, where the visitor can 
 ruminate at will, with little or no interruption from the 
 outside world. 
 
38 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 Cod-Fishing at No-Man's Land. 
 
 A party of friends invited the writer of these pages to a 
 cod-fishing trip in a sloop yacht of moderate size, "The 
 Starling," to the fishing-ground at the eastern point of 
 Martha's Vineyard, called " No-Man's Land." It was 
 somewhat early in the season, the commencement of May, 
 and uncertain weather for amateur fishermen to venture on 
 the briny deep all night ; we never thought of that, but 
 started at nine o'clock in the evening from the dock at New 
 Bedford, all hands in good spirits at the supposed fun we 
 were to have ; and the wives and children of the married men 
 came to the wharf with tearful eyes to bid us good- by, as if we 
 were going off for a journey to the North Pole, instead of a 
 two days' cruise to the fishing banks. All being iu readiness, 
 the captain and his mate hoisted sail, and away we scudded 
 before the wind, and speedily got outside the harbor to 
 anchor at Naushon for the night. The first mistake we 
 made was, for most of us, to begin smoking briar-root pipes 
 and cigars in the close little cabin below, scarcely large 
 enough to hold six persons, but which double that number 
 managed to crowd into : and in the mean while, as we were 
 spinning yarns, singing songs, etc., the weather had sud- 
 denly changed bitterly cold, and the sea became very rough 
 and unpleasant, with the sharp, breezy wind blowing squally, 
 necessitating closing down the hatchway and making things 
 "taut" in general for the coming gale; but, unfortunately, 
 in making secure from wind and weather, the captain forgot 
 that he thus prevented the only means of egress of the stale 
 smoke from escaping. Never in one's lifetime can be for- 
 gotten the miseries of that night ; inhaling the cigar and 
 tobacco smoke and each other's breaths, brought on most 
 excruciating headaches and tortures of seasickness of the 
 very worst kind ; added to which, there were but few bunks 
 or sleeping places, so each fisherman did the best he could, 
 under the circumstances, — some lying down with another 
 man's feet for his pillow ; others sitting about, half be- 
 wildered and stupefied ; others again, so restless with the 
 close confinement of the miniature cabin, had to go on deck, 
 to be speedily driven back by the cold, icy wind. The nar- 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 39 
 
 rator was so unwell with seasickness and smoke fumes that 
 he fervently prayed for daylight, to breath some pure, fresh 
 air once again. At length a movement was made by the 
 skipper and his mate from off the cabin floor, where they had 
 passed their night's repose, to cast anchor and away to the 
 fishing-ground, as it was now just break of day. The wind 
 had greatly freshened during the night, aud the cold was 
 most intense, so much so that the kindness of the stronger of 
 our party was called into play to the weaker ones ; one in 
 particular seemed to have an ague fit ; a blanket and the 
 capt dn's oilskin coat was found for this unfortunate, who 
 looked more like the "ghost of Hamlet's father" than a 
 brave fisherman at No-Man's Land, suffering, as he was, from 
 the painful effect of the vomiting and faintness. Never in 
 the experience of some of us did a day appear so long and 
 tedious, or cod-fishing so disgusting. After a good many 
 efforts of fishing, and changing the yacht's course, the sport 
 was abandoned for a time, and a chowder was cooked and 
 discussed by those whose stomachs could retain the mess, — 
 the smell alone being enough for most of us. 
 
 At length (to the writer's great relief), after trying one 
 spot and then another all day, and the fishing-ground hav- 
 ing proved mostly a failure, the word was given, "About 
 ship " for home — New Bedford ! No words sounded dearer 
 to the sick man lying on his back in the little cabin, racked 
 as he was with suffering and nausea. The sloop " Starling" 
 was a stanch, good boat to have withstood the strain of that 
 gale on her home stretch ; the waves continually dashed over 
 the deck of the little craft every moment, and the wind get- 
 ting stronger as evening closed in, made it dangerous for 
 those who were able to remain on deck. The skipper was 
 an experienced mariner, and remained at the tiller almost 
 motionless, steering with a firm hand, and his eagle eyes 
 sharply looking aloft at the sails, and giving occasional 
 orders to his mate and others able to assist. Great praise 
 is due to the captain of that little vessel and his assistant 
 for bringing us back safe and sound from injury. Out of 
 the eleven of us that went this miserable journey, some nine 
 were suffering more or less with cold or seasickness, and one 
 young man was heard to exclaim (when at his worst extrem- 
 
40 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 ity) that he would willingly pay a thousand dollars to be 
 placed at that moment on terra firma. For days afterwards 
 some of our party still suffered from the effects of the cold 
 and exposure, and one or two of them had to pay visits to 
 the dentist for tooth-pulling, to allay the gnawing pain of 
 face-ache. No permanent injury remained ; while the ma- 
 jority of the fishermen hesitate now, when a cod-fishing trip 
 is spoken of early in May, off No-Man's Land. 
 
 The American War Ship " Kearsarge." 
 
 The celebrated war steamer " Kearsarge " anchored in New 
 Bedford Roads in the summer of 1882. As is pretty well 
 known, this renowned vessel destroyed the steamship " Ala- 
 bama " in the late Civil War between North and South. It 
 may be remembered by some of the older of my readers that 
 this steamer "•Alabama" preyed upon all small merchant- 
 men of the North, invariably avoiding one of its own calibre 
 and tonnage ; thus many lives and much treasure was lost to 
 the North by the privateering acts of this fleet-sailing South- 
 erner. At length a day of reckoning came. The " Kear- 
 sarge," after many fruitless wanderings, came and anchored 
 opposite a French port, where the "Alabama" had taken 
 refuge. Seeing no alternative. Capt Semmes, of the South- 
 ern vessel, sailed out and gave fight to his enemy. A short, 
 sharp, decisive battle of cannonading destroyed the terror of 
 small craft. Amidst the confusion and cries of the wounded 
 and dying, Capt. Semmes escaped in a yacht cruising in sight 
 of the naval engagement, thus avoiding being taken prisoner, 
 most of his officers also escaping in the same way. 
 
 When, on driving around by the Point road, New Bed- 
 ford (a fine esplanade near the city), one could get a good 
 view of the noble vessel, the "Kearsarge," as she lay idly 
 at anchor in our harbor, on some peaceful government mis- 
 sion, one could but ruminate what a grand service this brave 
 old ship had done, some eighteen years ago, when party 
 feeling and party strife ran very bitter. Capt. Winslow, of 
 the " Kearsarge," might well be complimented on his sea- 
 manship and bravery, in conjunction with his officers and 
 men, by conquering the swift "Alabama," and with one 
 dread blow stop the marauding vessel from doing further 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 41 
 
 mischief. The stars and stripes waved gently at the peak 
 of the man-of-war of such renown, as we passed her, an 
 emblem of stability of the preservation of the Union for 
 which so many fought and bled, — sad enough to remember, 
 even at this length of time, — yet with results so lasting, and 
 blest, we trust, with much good, in the keeping together of 
 a great people under one flag, and in the abolition of that 
 plague spot, the slavery curse of the South, which once so 
 blighted this wide domain and fair land of America A 
 dearly purchased freedom, one would s:iy, in the tragic ending 
 of the Civil War by the death of the nation's idol, Abraham 
 Lincoln, and his brave army of heroic citizen soldiers ! 
 
 Block Island. 
 
 During the summer season, a number of pleasant excur- 
 sions take place from New Bedford, by the steamer " Mono- 
 hanset," one of which is the sail to Block Island and return 
 the same day ; the distance is about fifty miles from New 
 Bedford, and twelve miles from Newport. If the weather 
 is favorable and the sea smooth, much enjoyment is got out 
 of the trip ; but if the bay is boisterous, good-by for comfort 
 to the sufferer. The day our party went proved to be an 
 exceptionally fine one ; the water was as smooth as a lake, 
 and the sun's rays played in and out of the saloon, as if also 
 pleased with the occasion ; music on board chanted its strains 
 merrily, as we sailed along at good speed in the invigorating 
 sea breeze. Arriving at our destination, we found a large 
 excursion steamer, from Newport, had just come in, full of 
 merry faces, — young and old, — all charmed with the beauty 
 and pleasures of the day. With some friends we visited the 
 lighthouse, — one of the many tine apparatuses this country 
 so humanely possesses, to warn the benighted mariner of his 
 peril on this coast. Let me tell the reader, however, when 
 paying a visit to Block Island, to avoid walking through 
 fields and jumping over stone walls, on a scorching hot day, 
 to visit the lighthouse ; the, distance is too far to walk ; better 
 to ride by team than run the risk of sunstroke, for it seemed 
 as if one could never get cool again after that sultry stroll 
 across lots. The visitors picnicked on the green sward, near 
 
42 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 a fine spring of pure mineral water, while others went to the 
 various hotels for dinner, and the three hours allotted us by 
 the genial captain of the steamer " Monohanset," before 
 returning homeward, were much enjoyed on that breezy even- 
 ing sail across Buzzard's Bay to New Bedford. 
 
 Let us add, however, a second journey, in August, 1883, to 
 Block Island, proved very unfavorable to the travellers ; the 
 fine day at starting and the treacherous, calm look of the bay 
 lured us sufferers to our doom of terrible seasickness. Of the 
 number of five hundred passengers, two thirds were sick, with 
 a vengeance, going and returning ; the undertow, or ground 
 swell, caused the steamer to roll with a sideward movement 
 that upset our stomachs to a painful degree, every white- 
 faced voyager vowing vengeance against the journey on a 
 rolling day. The surf, however, was a grand sight to behold, 
 in its fierce magnitude. Some friends — amongst them two 
 or three young ladies — tried to appear brave, but finally 
 collapsed, and paid their respects to old Father Ocean, like 
 the rest of us. 
 
 In September, 1889, occurred one of the fiercest gales on 
 the Atlantic seaboard, which will long be remembered. 
 Coney Island was submerged, the hotels in part destroyed ; 
 Long Branch and Rockaway Beach had tidal waves that 
 swept all before them. Innumerable were the wrecks and 
 loss of life of this week's terrible gale, and the brave 
 deeds of the life-saving men, who did heroic and noble acts 
 of daring to save poor struggling souls clinging to masts 
 of doomed vessels. Block Island, of course, with its wild, 
 tempestuous sea, came in for its share of storm tide. The 
 steamer u Mount Hope," which left Providence for Block 
 Island, Saturday, Sept. 8, with passengers, could not return 
 for them till about a week, and the benighted and bewildered 
 people had to remain on the island and live on fish at the 
 hotels till the gale abated. Some friends of the writer, who 
 were detained on the island, describe the sight of the rolling 
 sea and the immense raising of the surf as a spectacle 
 almost beyond description in its fierce grandeur. 
 
RAMBLES IN AxMERICA. 43 
 
 President Harrison at Newport, R. I., July 5, 1889. 
 
 Newport has had the honor of welcoming many Presidents 
 of the United States to its shores, and to-day extends the 
 hand of friendship to Gen. Benjamin Harrison and the dis- 
 tinguished gentlemen accompanying him. The government 
 steamer "Despatch" brought the presidential party from 
 New London, who were received by Gov. Ladd and Sen- 
 ator Aldrich and dockyard officials. The President and 
 Secretary Tracy, of the navy, and a large party of notable 
 guests inspected the torpedo station, where several experi- 
 ments were made of that wonderful invention. A salute of 
 twent}-one torpedoes was fired from the island with fine 
 effect, the volume of water thrown being immense. A brief 
 visit to the training ship for boys was much enjoyed by the 
 presidential party, but the short stay was not long enough to 
 please the youngsters and their officers, who wanted to show 
 at some length their marine evolutions to the Washington 
 guests. The party, on returning in the captain's gig, from 
 the bow of which floated the President's flag, found carriages 
 in waiting at the Navy Yard wharf, to convey the visitors to 
 the State House of Newport, to be present at an informal 
 reception of the public generally between five and six 
 o'clock p. m. Promptly on time the party drove up to the 
 building, when the President alighted and wearily ascended 
 the steps of the State House, in company with Secretary 
 Tracy, Senators Aldrich and Dixon of Rhode Island, Gov. 
 Ladd, Mayor Coggeshall, and other gentlemen, who stood in 
 a semicircle and received a motley crowd of men, women, 
 and children, white and colored, who eagerly streamed into 
 the building, and shook hands with most of the presidential 
 party. A cordon of policemen had to prevent curiosity 
 mongers from halting in the passageway, as many of the 
 "presented" would linger, and ask ridiculous questions. 
 The President appeared a very tired man ; pale and ashen his 
 complexion looked, partly, no doubt, from the fatigue and 
 heat of the July day, though his good-nature showed itself 
 by his quiet, amused smile and a bow, as he greeted us as 
 we advanced and passed along out by the west exit of the 
 State House. At 6.40 it was found necessary to close the 
 
44 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 doors, ou account, we suppose, of the fatigue of shaking 
 hands with some fifteen hundred people. Among those pre- 
 sented was an infant of a Mrs. Burdick, who, with its 
 mother, was a survivor of the Johnstown flood. The baby 
 was taken in the arms of each of the receiving party in turn, 
 and kissed. The child, when grown up, will be proud of 
 the honor, no doubt, of being caressed by such a renowned 
 company. A grand dinner in the evening was given at 
 Gov. Ladd's cottage, on Bellevue Avenue, to the President 
 and his party, augmented by a number of select Newport 
 guests of distinguished character. At 12 p. m. the party 
 embarked on board the steamer " Despatch" for New York, 
 and when opposite the island, the great marine search-light 
 flashed out from the torpedo station, and a huge column 
 of water shot up in the wake of the illuminator. It was 
 the parting salute to the " Despatch " and its notable pas- 
 sengers, who had had such a brief but such a thoroughly 
 enjoyable time in the capital of little Rhode Island. 
 
 Newport in the Season of July and August, 1889. 
 
 Newport, as a resort of wealth and fashion, is perhaps 
 unrivalled during the summer months, and a fair share of the 
 plebian classes also enjoy its man}' attractions of beach, 
 bathing, and pleasant avenue drives. To a weary city man, 
 a visit to Newport means renewed health and restored vigor. 
 A friend of mine, who has a penchant for strolling on the 
 beautiful beach of velvet sand at almost sunrise, had con- 
 vinced the writer of its healthy effects, and often together we 
 have rambled for a couple of hours, the ocean breeze fanning 
 our cheeks with life-giving fervor. A heart} 7 breakfast at 
 our hotel and another visit to the crowded beach for a bathe 
 are among the delights of Newport. The ocean drive, as it is 
 termed, or a ride to Bailey's Beach, gives a fine opportunity 
 along Bellevue Avenue to view the man}- magnificent 
 cottages and villas for the wealth}'. The numerous stylish 
 carriages and dog-carts, or perhaps village carts, with clean- 
 groomed horses, clash along the avenues, ofteu driven by well- 
 dressed ladies and young girls, the grooms sitting ou the back 
 seat complacently, with folded arms. A nice trip from New- 
 
EAMBLES IN AMERICA. 45 
 
 port to Block Island or Narraganset Pier is very enjoyable, 
 or to Brenton Reef lightship, and sail around the harbor, 
 passing Fort Adams and the mouth of Seconnet River. The 
 last evening of our stay a band concert was given in the 
 park, and fireworks ; also the old tower was lighted up with 
 red-fire, which gave quite a weird effect to the hundreds of 
 faces looking on. My Providence friend and his daughters 
 tired the narrator out with the weariness of promenading on 
 a hot July evening, and we all with one mind returned to the 
 hotel, glad of rest on the garden seats of the cool green 
 sward. 
 
 To drive along the Cliff road and the avenues of Newport 
 on a sunny afternoon is a great delight, particularly in con- 
 junction with the natural adornments of the surrounding 
 neighborhood and the salt freshness of the sea-lined coast ; 
 around you are such palatial residences as only millionnaires 
 are supposed to live in ; a pageant of equipages and a fleet- 
 ing vision of fair faces, their beauty all aglow with the 
 splendid fresh sea breeze and the excitement of driving fast 
 horses in every species of fashionable cart. Of course New- 
 port society of upper-ten is an exclusive one to the class in 
 which it belongs, which causes a sort of hauteur and reserved- 
 ness within its own circle, and which makes the remark of 
 dulness by numerous visitors. Excitement and amusements 
 there surely are beneath that placid front, but the eyes of 
 the multitude are forbidden to view the same. Then again, 
 the Newport society belle, calm as she appears, if her parents 
 grant permission, at least once a week sails across the bay 
 to Narraganset Pier, where the men are said to be so awfully 
 nice, and flirting, dancing, bathing, and ice-cream eating are 
 the order of the day there. Naturally, there is a difference 
 in the gayeties of Newport and Narraganset ; the former 
 rigidly exclusive, the latter free and easy, where all well- 
 dressed-appearing people unbend to each other with slight 
 introductions. To see the enjoyment of the day's excursion- 
 ist to Newport is quite a feature ; riding in the wagonette or 
 stage from steamboat wharf to the various beaches for a dip 
 in the sea ; and on the road, to watch the superciliousness of 
 the dainty miss or madame, as she reclines in regal state 
 amongst the cushions of her carriage, lazily and sometimes 
 
46 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 haughtily gazing with increased wonderment at the continual 
 encroachment of the masses of common, every-day people, 
 who have dared to evade fair Newport during the season, is 
 a sight to behold. The prim visitor of a Newport maiden, 
 as she is seen daintily tiptoeing down from her bath-house, 
 clad in a stylish bathing suit and silk stockings, and the 
 undulating curves of her agile body, makes a fascinating 
 bather. Instead of splashing in, however, as the sturdy 
 excursionist or her friends at Narraganset do, she toys for 
 some time in getting out as far as her knees, then at last 
 makes a decision of a little dive in about two feet of water 
 from a gentle wave. In contrast with this young lady's 
 primness in the surf, others of her less-favored sisters enjoy 
 the ocean rollers as the}' should be enjoyed in this glorious 
 ocean bath. 
 
 Sept. 8th to the 14th, of 1889, was fraught with disastrous 
 results to the bathing-beach restaurant ; the cyclone of wind 
 and surf carried all before them, the dash of the sea reaching 
 across the promenades, and the surf at Spouting Rock was a 
 sight to behold. This memorable time will long be remem- 
 bered as a week's turbulence of Old Ocean, stretching along 
 the Atlantic coast in its violent agitation of upheaving*. 
 The gale was so severe that not any passenger steamer 
 could venture in or out of the harbor during this severe Sep- 
 tember equinoctial storm. 
 
 In June of each year the Quaker Society have a reunion of 
 friends from all parts of the States to Newport, and hold a 
 conference forborne days, to transact their busiuess, religious 
 aud secular, for the ensuing twelve months. 
 
 The British North American Squadron at Newport Harbor. 
 
 The " Bellerophon," flag-ship of Vice- Admiral Watson, 
 the "Canada" and "Partridge," war vessels, came into 
 Newport harbor for a few days, on Aug. 1, 1890, and the 
 advent of these war cruisers was the signal of a general 
 jubilee at the fashionable watering-place, notwithstanding that 
 Prince George of Wales omitted to call here, for thousands 
 of excursionists came from all parts of the Union, by rail and 
 boat. The excitement and anxiety to get on board the 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 47 
 
 "■ Bellerophon " were quite amusing. A fleet of yachts, sail- 
 boats, and small steamers, crowded with people, were seen 
 hurrying across the bay from ten to five, daily, and for a 
 novice to visit the large war-ship was quite interesting, par- 
 ticularly to see the huge gun equipments. We were informed 
 that there were twenty large cannons, twenty-four smaller 
 calibre, and several quick-firing guns, added to which arma- 
 ment about six hundred and fifty Jack-tars and marines, all 
 fully armed, would make the flag-ship a formidable enemy in 
 case of need, though, of course, the latest mode of warfare 
 is of more deadly character, with its torpedo boats, etc. 
 During our stay on board, an informal reception was given 
 by Admiral Watson on the quarter-deck, to American offi- 
 cers and their ladies, also to Newport's notables and upper- 
 ten cottagers. A sentry-guard was stationed at the foot of 
 the staircase, approaching the sacred precincts of the quarter- 
 deck, to keep the excursionists off, but an old lady made the 
 attempt to gain a footing on the companion-ladder, when the 
 young English soldier warned her away. " But," she exclaimed, 
 " I understood this ship was free to everybody to-day." 
 Visitors were courteously shown above and below decks ; 
 everything looking bright and neat, — man-of-war fashion. 
 An episode happened during our visit : a boat-load of desert- 
 ers had put off to one of the adjacent islands, but most of 
 the runaways were speedily recaptured, two being wounded, 
 after some resistance to the armed force sent after them ; 
 some few of the men escaped into Newport, thence to Bos - 
 ton ; but altogether, it was said, when the squadron left th e 
 harbor two days afterwards, some sixteen sailors and marine s 
 were missing. When the excitement of capture was over , 
 and the men put in irons below, the Marine Band continue d 
 its music gayly, the admiral's reception went on again, an d 
 the wine toasts, no doubt, were repeated. By the health y- 
 looking condition of the men of the war-ships, one is a pt 
 to be surprised at their desertion from duty, as they all sign ed 
 for a three years' cruise, and sixteen months had alrea dy 
 elapsed ; but golden America (as some suppose) being clo se 
 at hand, was no doubt the temptation to these young rover s. 
 During the squadron's stay, the New York Yacht Club cam e 
 into Newport waters, and the gala time at the seashore city 
 
48 RAMBJ.ES IN AMERICA. 
 
 was something worth seeing. Every evening the fleet of 
 yachts illuminated, and Commodore Gerry's fine vessel, the 
 " Electra," was arched over by a mass of electric lights, 
 causing a fine appearance. On Sunday all of the yachts in 
 the harbor were decorated with bunting, and the New York 
 Club-house was in constant requisition by the steady flow of 
 well-dressed and handsome ladies and their escort of bronzed 
 yachtsmen, coming over to view the town and pay calls. On 
 Wednesday, Aug. 6, the English war-ships weighed anchor, 
 and sailed in company for Halifax, much to the sorrow of 
 the Newport merchants, who supplied large quantities of 
 stores to those vessels while riding at anchor. 
 
 Before leaving this favored spot of Nature, — Newport, — 
 a few words respecting the visit, which is remembered with 
 much pleasure A kindly invitation to spend a few days at 
 a charming cottage on the Bluffs, surrounded by its own 
 grounds, and overlooking the ocean highway, was enjoyed 
 with much zest ; and a horse and carriage placed at the 
 writer's disposal, and driven around to points of interest by 
 my hospitable entertainer and his worthy family, are remem- 
 bered very pleasantly those sunny August days. The elec- 
 tric cars on tbe Newport roads are a source of danger to 
 carriage occupants, by frightening the horses to an alarming 
 degree, in some instances, though the boon to the general 
 public is great, in the rapid transit around and about the city. 
 
 Dorchester, Mass., Revisited. 
 
 Like "Rip Van Winkle," after his twenty years' sleep, the 
 writer of these pages stepped into the good old town of 
 Dorchester, a place where the author spent two happy years 
 of his early life. Naturally one finds, after many seasons' 
 absence, a great many changes of localities and individuals 
 and old landmarks. Numbers of my friends had passed 
 away to rest ; while others, who were little children years 
 ago, had become men and women giown, most of them mar- 
 ried and have families of their own. The aged postmaster 
 remained in life at our visit, and greeted us with much 
 warmth of feeling, but his feeble frame was fast losing its 
 hold of things on this earth, and the dear old man has since 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA; 49 
 
 been gathered to his kindred. Others remain yet that one 
 remembered long ago ; their locks are now whitened with 
 age, yet their ever kindly welcome to the traveller of other 
 lands was a renewal of the pleasant reminiscences of the 
 past, with still the same old zest of hearty good-will as in 
 former days. Outside of these recollections of days gone 
 by, one sees many innovations in the famed old town, which 
 is now annexed to Boston : new streets, new dwellings, new 
 thoroughfares, and new surroundings, with graded, finely cut 
 roads diverging to the four points of the compass. Horse- 
 car travel and electric cars from Hoston's busy city have 
 taken the place of the time-honored stage of years ago ; in 
 fact, everything has grown fast nnd furious in its progress 
 from the old plodding ways of many winters since. The 
 ancient landmarks are nearly all obliterated, except where it 
 is an impossibility ; and one sometimes feels, in inquiring 
 about certain localities and inhabitants, as if in the asking, it 
 was as a stranger and not as a former resident. Everything 
 seemed changed, in many respects. The old fire department 
 quarters (of which the writer was once a member) were 
 swept away years since, and a more commodious and stylish 
 building erected in its stead, with the jaunty steam fire- 
 engine of modern times, glistening with polished brass and 
 painted in bright colors, thus taking tbe place of the old 
 " Torrent, No. 3," a manual engine that used to be worked 
 by willing hands and stout hearts of the then young amateur 
 firemen of that period. The recollections of the Dorchester 
 fire companies of years ago have some very pleasant rem- 
 iniscenes in them ; visions of pretty daughters of kind 
 parents, bringing the firemen hot coffee and cakes during the 
 hard work of the hour of fiery blaze ; and after the danger 
 was over (all honor to the brave fellows who risked so much 
 to save their neighbors' propert} 7 and fellow-creatures' lives), 
 these same American ladies, by their charming naivete of 
 manner in thanking us for our efforts, added a great stimu- 
 lus of encouragement by thus cheering us on to further good. 
 The smart firemen of to-day, in the pay of the local gov- 
 ernment, dressed in uniform of blue, are no smarter than the 
 dashing young volunteer firemen of twenty years ago, who 
 so ably assisted to propel the manual engine along by the 
 
50 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 long, stout rope to the scene of conflagration, with all the 
 ardor and rivalry of gallant men, " ever ready" to save life 
 and property, at any risk. 
 
 The fire system of to-day is necessarily much improved in 
 discipline, and has become quite a business science, in its 
 methodical exactness and promptitude ; even the very horses 
 in the department are disciplined into the excitement of being 
 on the alert and ever ready ; the really gifted animals on the 
 alarm of fire-bell trot into their places in the shafts or pole of 
 the engine, and, being in part always harnessed, night and 
 day, the cavalcade of humanity and mercy is on its humane 
 and courageous mission within a few moments of its sum- 
 mons. 
 
 Then farewell, dear old Dorchester ! Thy memories of retro- 
 spection have become a mixed enjoyment of pleasure and sad- 
 ness to the wanderer in many lands. Goon with thy changes 
 for better or worse, and, like other towns and cities, those 
 within thy precincts will play their part in life's history and 
 pass away ; others will take their places, and so the world 
 moves around, to the joy and prosperity of some, and to the 
 failure and disappointment of many. Go on, kind old town, 
 in thy whirl of changes and in the evolution of the turnings 
 of Fate's progress. Be merciful, kind Destin}', to the unfor- 
 tunate and weary in the race of life's pilgrimage. 
 
 Before taking our final leave of Dorchester, permit the 
 writer to relate an incident which happened on his first visit 
 to this town, many years ago. Being out of health, he was 
 advised by a physician to try horseback riding before break- 
 fast, to get up an appetite. Accompanied by an American 
 friend we started off one fine morning, well mounted on good- 
 looking chargers ; my companion bestrode a dark-bay horse, 
 mine being (unfortunately) a cream-colored animal. All 
 went well for a time, we feeling exhilarated with our riding 
 exercise on the fresh spring morniugtide, when, lo and 
 behold, two large, powerful mastiff dogs bounded from an 
 open gateway, and barked and jumped at our horses' faces 
 in a most terrific manner. My steed being of light color 
 caused the most attention from the half -mad curs, both of 
 whom continued to snarl, bark, and jump in the most vicious 
 manner, till my horse became entirely unmanageable and 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 51 
 
 took fright, shying from one side of the road to the other, 
 finally throwing me heavily to the ground and leaving one 
 foot caught in the iron stirrup, the frightened animal drag- 
 ging the unfortunate horseman straight along a country cor- 
 duroy road, noted for its roughness of macadamizing ; away 
 went the maddened steed aud dethroned rider, who was 
 dragged, bumped, jolted, and bruised for some distance. 
 
 My thoughts for a few seconds, on looking upward at the 
 horse's fleeting hoofs, ran thuswise : life is not worth much 
 just now, and the visions of dear ones at home passed 
 rapidly, like a disordered dream, before me, as consciousness 
 was fast ebbing away, but, providentiall}-, my foot got 
 released at last from the stirrup, the startled horse dashing 
 off with renewed vigor as he felt lightened aud free from his 
 burden. The cowardly dogs carried on the pursuit for a mile 
 or two, then slunk away ; while the poor seeker after health 
 was assisted to rise by the alarmed bystanders, bruised and 
 bleeding, with garments torn and tattered, lookiug quite a 
 forlorn equestrian spectacle after taking such violent early 
 mornino- exercise, with appetite not improved. My friend 
 
52 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 escaped injury, partly, perhaps, being a better rider than 1113- 
 self, or his horse not being so objectionable in color to the 
 currish mastiffs. Acquaintances advised me to prosecute by 
 law the owners of the vicious dogs, but as no bones were 
 broken, and the writer was more frightened than hurt, he 
 declined to go into litigation. Looking back, after a long 
 vista of years, on this accident, one is almost apt to shudder 
 at the danger of the incident and of the marvellous escape 
 from a most violent death. In more recent years, the narra- 
 tor, when thinking of saddleback riding, invariably picks out 
 an animal dark in color, and keeps his eye and tightened rein 
 at the sight of bounding, vicious brutes of dogs. 
 
 We may add that between the districts of Jamaica Plain 
 and Dorchester is Franklin Park, a fine tract of land of some 
 seven hundred acres in extent. 
 
 Lynn, Mass. 
 
 Lynn is a busy, industrial, seaboard city, situated eleven 
 miles northeast of Boston by the Eastern Railroad, bounded 
 on the southeast by Massachusetts Bay and Nahant. It has 
 a harbor opening towards the south, formed by Nahant on 
 the east and Pines Point on the west, with water sufficient 
 for sloop navigation. The principal rock is sienite, which in 
 some localities has been profitably quarried, and excellent 
 clay for the manufacture of bricks is found. From the ele- 
 vations in the vicinity of the city a most enchanting prospect 
 is presented, comprehending the harbor of Boston, Avith its 
 hundred islands, the spires and domes of the city, with 
 the heights of Norfolk in the background. A chain of 
 beautiful sheets of water, called "The Lynn Lakes," extend 
 along the northeastern section of the city, imparting life and 
 variety to the landscape. Lynn has between thirty and forty 
 farms and many well-cultivated gardens and fine orchards, 
 which indicate careful management. Her population is 
 about forty-two thousand, with a floating, transient number 
 of extras of about eight thousand, — mostly young farmers 
 and others who come to Lynn during winter to work at 
 shoemaking, — that trade paying them bettor in the wintry 
 season than tilling the earth. There are many fine streets 
 and thoroughfares in the city, with some excellent public and 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 53 
 
 private buildings, and also some large factories for the man- 
 ufacture of ladies' boots and shoes, which useful articles seem 
 to be the people's chief business. Steam and horse cars 
 couve}" passengers from Boston, Chelsea, and many other 
 places at frequent intervals, and in summer time, being 
 adjacent to the " Point of Pines " and Nahant, the pleasure 
 traffic must be very good. 
 
 Lynn's Awful Fire, Nov. 26, 1889. 
 
 Since writing the above account of Lynn's industrial city, 
 we regret to add that a lamentable conflagration took place 
 here, similar to the burnt district of Boston's great fire in 
 1872. On Tuesday, Nov. 26, the "City of Shoes" was 
 visited by the greatest fire in its history, and, with but two 
 exceptions, the most disastrous which has ever visited New 
 England, causing a loss estimated at five millions of dollars, 
 loss falling heavily on English insurance offices. A square 
 mile of business premises were destroyed, including several 
 banks and churches, and nearly all the shoe factories, render- 
 ing some hundreds of people homeless and destitute. Flames 
 raged for hours, only stopped at the margin of the ocean. 
 A hopeful feeling amongst the merchants prevails, that they 
 will soon rally from their terrible catastrophe, and rebuild the 
 city of brick and stone in lieu of so many wooden structures 
 and fire-traps. 
 
 On Thanksgiving Day, Nov. 28, 1889, only two days 
 after the great Lynn fire, and where the Boston firemen 
 assisted so nobly, the city of Boston was visited also 
 with a serious conflagration, similar to the one in 1872, and 
 nearly in the same locality of Bedford and Chauncy Streets. 
 About five millions of dollars succumbed to the flames, — 
 chiefly insured in English companies. Unfortunately, sev- 
 eral brave firemen were lost, in their heroic efforts of duty. 
 Surrounding towns promptly responded to the call for help, — 
 Providence being among the number. The writer of these 
 pages was in Boston, Jan. 7, 1890, and inspected the ruins 
 of this fire ; the debris was mostly cleared away, and the 
 work of reconstruction commenced in this unlucky quarter of 
 Boston's fine granite and brick buildings. The insurance 
 report of Feb. 18, 1890, and adjusters' returns of the great 
 
54 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 Lynn fire, show that the total value of buildings destroyed 
 was near five millions of dollars, and of the contents near 
 four millions of dollars. 
 
 Pirate's Dungeon Cave, near Lynn. 
 
 About two miles from Lynn's city proper, and up a steep 
 hill, is a large mass of rock, known far and wide as " The 
 Pirate's Dungeon Cave." The writer and two friends, by 
 paying the person in charge of the rocky estate twenty-five 
 cents each, were permitted to enter the dark abyss, though" 
 our guide speedily lighted lanterns affixed on the rocky, damp 
 walls, and carrying one in his hand, he introduced us to the 
 explorations ; and after the legend is given, the reader may 
 form his own opinion of the veracity of the story. 
 
 This is the " legend " which the narrator found in the little 
 office near the cave, printed at the bottom of a large photo- 
 graph of the rocky eminence : — 
 
 "According to traditional accounts, there formerly existed 
 a cave in this place, which was frequented by pirates. Since 
 the great earthquake in 1658, which closed the original en- 
 trance, no vestige of the cave is discernible, and at that time 
 a pirate, known as Thomas Veal, was imprisoned alive ; hence 
 the place is called ' Pirate's dungeon.' It is believed by 
 many that treasures are secured here, and various attempts 
 have been made to force an entrance to the cave. Some 
 years ago renewed attempts were made to blow up the place, 
 but succeeded only in displacing a mass of rocks. Subse- 
 quently Jesse Hutchinson (one of the singing brothers), 
 under the direction of a clairvoyant, tried to reach the cave, 
 but he abandoned a labor so very expensive and laborious. 
 Afterwards, Mr. Hiram Marble, under the guidance of clair- 
 voyants and spiritual mediums, commenced the present ex- 
 cavations (about eight years since Mr. Hutchinson's ven- 
 ture) ; he has penetrated into the solid rock to the distance 
 of more than one hundred feet, making a passageway eight 
 feet in diameter ; he professed to be guided in his opera- 
 tions by the spirits of the pirates who occupied the cave, 
 communicating through spiritual mediums. Should he verify 
 the predictions of the spirits in finding the cave and treas- 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 55 
 
 ures, it will certainly be an irresistible evidence of the truth 
 of Spiritualism ; but should he fail so to do, it will prove the 
 wonderful faith, patience, and perseverance on the part of 
 the excavators." 
 
 So much for the legend. But the writer was informed 
 that it was as far back as 1851 when Mr. Hiram Marble, 
 Sen., undertook this ardous work for years, failed in his 
 purpose, after spending thousands of dollars, and died, per- 
 haps, broken-hearted. His son took up where his father left 
 off ; excavated at great expense some feet further in the 
 rock, found no treasure, and died comparatively a young man. 
 The rocky estate, we were informed, was mortgaged to its 
 supposed full value. Like Captain Kidd, the once buccaneer 
 of the seas, who was supposed to have buried his treasures 
 in a little inlet near k ' Stony Creek," Conn., called " Pot 
 Island," but it was supposition only, as may be the case 
 of the dungeon pirates near Lynn ; and it seems sad and 
 foolish to venture a fortune in huntiug after a myth, and 
 ruin two worthy men in vain efforts to gain riches by digging 
 and delving bare rocks. 
 
 Harvard College, Cambridge, Mass. 
 
 Cambridge, the seat of Harvard University, and the semi- 
 capital of Middlesex County, is an opulent and elegant city, 
 about three miles northwest of Boston. Aside from its 
 celebrated University, Cambridge has many buildings and 
 other objects of interest to the visitor ; on one side of the 
 Common stands the famous " Washington Elm," under which 
 it is said that the u Father of his Country " took command 
 of the Continental army on the third day of July, 1775; 
 and on Brattle Street is the fine old mansion where he held 
 his headquarters, while at Cambridge, till late occupied by 
 the lamented poet, Henry W. Longfellow. 
 
 Cambridge University was founded in September, 1636. 
 It is not only the oldest, but also the best endowed and 
 most extensive institution of the kind in America. The 
 college gi'ounds embrace an area of twenty-two acres of 
 land, and are almost entirely covered with buildings pertaining 
 to the University. In close proximity to each other stand 
 
56 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 the substantial structures used for dormitories, recitations, 
 Museum, Library, Law School, public worship, Memorial 
 Hall, dining-hall, Gymnasium, and other buildings, bearing 
 the well-known names : Hoi worthy Hall, Stoughton Hall, 
 Holden Chapel. Hollis Hall, Harvard Hall, Massachusetts 
 Hall, Matthias Hall, and many others. 
 
 This University is worthy of its name ; in addition to the 
 usual collegiate course, provision is made not only for the 
 study for what is called the learned professions, — divinity, 
 law, and medicine, — but also for that of dentistry, mining, 
 agriculture, and other arts and sciences. 
 
 The Memorial Hall is a magnificent structure, with its fine, 
 lofty proportions aud really elegant stained-glass windows, 
 and its tesselated pavements, giving a very imposing effect 
 as one enters from the approach entrance. Leading out or 
 from the Memorial Hall is the dining-hall, a noble, spacious 
 building, with the elegance, comfort, and convenience of a 
 large, first-class hotel ; it accommodates as many as six hun- 
 dred students ; by the number of chairs, no doubt all could 
 be seated and served with their meals at one and the same 
 time. Around the walls of this dining-hall are some very 
 fine paintings, mostly portraits of eminent professors, 
 teachers, and benefactors to the college ; also several fig- 
 ures, sculptured in marble, of personages connected with the 
 University. 
 
 The Museum is perhaps the most interesting to the visitor. 
 A number of rooms contain glass cases from ceiling to floor, 
 filled with all kinds of Indian relics, pottery vessels of the 
 antique, skulls, poisoned arrows, mummies, Indian bows, 
 josses, etc. The polite curator kindly showed the writer 
 around the collection, which must number man} r thousand 
 specimens of rarities. The Indian relics of spear-heads aud 
 other implements seemed to be very perfect, and each article 
 is classified, with its record of history. 
 
 The Gymnasium is the best, one would imagine, in the 
 country ; a network of ropes extend from top and across the 
 building, having the appearance of an old-fashioned " man- 
 of-war," with its cordage and all kiuds of apparatus, of 
 spring-boards, swinging trapeze, beds to fall on, etc. ; in 
 fact, the athlete here can enjoy himself to his heart's con- 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 57 
 
 tent, and exercise the body, after the mind has sometimes 
 been overtaxed. The population of Cambridge is over 
 40,000 ; while the census returns of June, 1890, of Boston's 
 population amount to 417,720, showing a gain in the Hub 
 City of 55,000 souls since the census of 1880. 
 
 Nantasket Beach — on Boston Bay. 
 
 The above beach is a favorite resort of the Boston ians 
 during the summer months. A pleasant ride of some eight- 
 een miles brings the traveller to a very pretty seashore 
 place, where a fine bathing-ground is at the service of the 
 man}' thousands of persons who every season paj T tribute to 
 " Father Neptune" by swimming and refreshing themselves 
 by a salt-water bath. At each end of the beachy parade 
 a magnificent hotel is situated, with first-class fare for the 
 hungry or thirsty visitors ; an excellent band of music plays 
 at intervals, afternoons and evenings ; dancing and fireworks 
 at night add to the hilarity of the scene, and combine to 
 make this, Boston's " Coney Island," a most cool sojourn 
 from the heated city. One of the hotels, called Hotel 
 Pemberton, has a finely arranged and well-appointed cafe or 
 restaurant, where the colored waiters are in lull discipline, 
 and obsequious to visitors, and a really excellent dinner 
 is to be had here ; the bill of fare was so numerous in 
 items of good things that a description would be tedious 
 to the reader ; and if the solids were good and ample, the 
 liquids were also, in all varieties of plain and fancy drinks, 
 lemonade, apple toddy, punch, etc. A steam railway carries 
 the passengers all around the beach (if they are too lazy 
 to walk), making a very pleasant ride for those who wish 
 to see all over the place. A few miles further inland is 
 another attractive resoit, called " Downer's Landing," lo- 
 cated by Nature in an inlet of the bay, where good clam 
 dinners are served twice a day, intermingled with dancing in 
 the afternoon and evening, to an excellent band of music, 
 with numerous other attractions of boating, fishing, swing- 
 ing, tight-rope feats, winding up with fireworks. Excur- 
 sion steamers in the summer make frequent trips daily from 
 Boston to this place. 
 
58 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 Early Settlement at Plymouth, Mass. 
 
 The early history of British enterprise in America was 
 from one's earliest recollection ever a subject fraught with 
 the greatest interest to us, and it was in order to satisfy our 
 thirst for information on this subject that we paid a visit to 
 the ancient town of Plymouth, about thirty-seven miles south- 
 east of Boston, remarkable in history as the landing-place, 
 in 1620, of the Pilgrim Fathers, who emigrated in the good 
 ship "Mayflower." The actual rock on which the adven- 
 turers landed has had erected over it a massive granite 
 canopy. This structure cost $32,000, beneath which lies 
 the original rock, and also the portion which was formerly 
 in the enclosure in front of Pilgrim Hall, but which was 
 removed to its present position when the canopy was built, 
 years ago. In a commanding position, on a hill in rear of 
 the town, has also beeu erected, of later years, a magnifi- 
 cent granite monument, " Faith," to the memory of the 
 Pilgrims, which is of national fame, and is considered one 
 of the finest granite structures in the world. In the ancient 
 churchyard (or "Burial Hill," as it has long been called), 
 the oldest tombstone therein of the adventurers is dated 
 1683 (that of William Crowe), though tradition says some 
 of the settlers were buried there as early as 1662. The 
 Pilgrims had to be very particular, in burying their brethren, 
 not to leave any records of the deceased, as the Indians 
 were much exasperated at the great mortality among them, 
 and obstinately held that the invaders had introduced a 
 scourge to afflict the natives. This churchyard stands on a 
 hill about one hundred feet above the level of the sea, and 
 commands a noble prospect of the ocean and surrounding 
 country. The Pilgrim Hall is a sort of antiquarian 
 museum, comprising an interesting collection of papers and 
 curiosities, presented to the town of Plymouth by the de- 
 scendants of these early settlers. We noticed many curious 
 articles brought over in the " Mayflower," such as a small 
 cabinet of very peculiar workmanship, a part of a sea chest, 
 a large, antique sofa, wearing apparel, two Bibles, a couple 
 of old-fashioned wooden chairs (much disfigured by the 
 
RAMBLES "IN AMERICA. 59 
 
 knives of antiquity-bunting visitors) , and otber items. We 
 saw likewise an admirable painting, executed by W. S. Sar- 
 gent, wbicb represents the brave little band of adventurers 
 landing with their wives and children ; nor could one gaze 
 without pity at the forlorn condition of the Pilgrims, step- 
 ping on to the bleak shore, amid ice and snow, accompanied 
 by their beloved partners, whose delicate forms, in many 
 instances, sank beneath the severity of the trials to which 
 they were exposed. The picture is of large dimensions, 
 and we were especially struck by the commanding attitude 
 of Samoset, the friendly Indian chi^f. Another curiosity 
 that we inspected was a parchment deed, sent by the Pro- 
 tector, Oliver Cromwell, to Gov. Wiuslow, dated 1G54, in- 
 vesting the latter with power to act as arbitrator between 
 the English nation and the States-general, with several other 
 letters of an almost equally early date, that can be read with 
 a little patience. Fronting the hall is an iron enclosure, on 
 the railing of which are inscribed the names of those forty- 
 eight illustrious fathers of the Anglo-American Republic, 
 who, driven from their English homes by religious perse- 
 cution, sallied forth across the ocean to plant the stand- 
 ard of the cross in an almost unknown and savage land, 
 thus inaugurating a new era in the history of the world. In 
 truth, looking back through the annals of the last two cen- 
 turies, one cannot contemplate without admiration the vast 
 amount of agricultural enterprise and commercial greatness, 
 that has been achieved in so short a time ; and could the Pil- 
 grim Fathers rise from their graves to see the rich harvest 
 that has since arisen from the humble seed sown by them- 
 selves, they would be fairly astonished that the continent 
 which in their time was tenanted only by the red Indian 
 and the beasts of the forest, is now endowed with all the 
 inestimable blessings of a free government, and offering 
 every incentive of activity and enterprise, not only to her 
 own sons, but to strangers from other lands. 
 
 The Grand Army of Veterans in Boston, Aug. 12, 1890. 
 
 The great National Encampment of the Grand Army of the 
 Republic, held in Boston at the above date, was one to be 
 
60 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 long remembered. This reunion of veterans from all parts 
 of the Union, to the number of forty thousand, marched 
 through the principal thoroughfares of Boston's city, on 
 the cloudy summer's day, amidst much enthusiasm by the 
 myriads of people who welcomed them. The procession 
 took five and a half hours to pass a given point, and it was 
 computed there were one hundred and fifty thousand visitors 
 in the city. Boston was one mass of decoration, of flags, 
 banners, and bunting of all kinds, extending for miles. 
 President Harrison and some members of his Cabinet, 
 assisted by Gov. Brackett, of Massachusetts, Gen. Alger, 
 Commander-in-Chief of the Grand Army, Gen. Butler, and 
 other officers reviewed the aged veterans as they marched 
 past to the music of many scores of bands. On Aug. 14, 
 1890, Col. Veasie, of Vermont, was unanimously elected 
 Commander-in-Chief of the Grand Army. The next En- 
 campment was voted to be held in Detroit 
 
 Provincetown, Cape Cod. 
 
 On one of the hottest days of July, 1883, when the ther- 
 mometer stood among the 9l)'s in the shade, a large party 
 of excursionists embarked on board the palace steamer 
 "Empire State," from Battery Wharf, Boston, en route 
 across the bay to Provincetown. For this excursion, our 
 course lies down the harbor, as far as " Nix's Mate," when 
 we diverge, in order to pass Lovell's and Gallop's islands. 
 We are now approaching George's Island, on which stands 
 a noble fortress. Any hostile fleet entering the port must 
 first force its way through the narrow channel, commanded 
 by the heaviest ordnance in use. On our right is Pettick's 
 Island, and then the high promontory of Hull, which is 
 joined to the mainland by the magnificent Nantasket Beach, 
 back of which rise several green eminences, as Strawberry 
 Hill, Sagamore Hill, etc., crowned by hotels and cottages. 
 Nantasket is connected with the mainland in the town of 
 Cohasset. The extreme seaward point of Hull is a high 
 headland of drift, called Point Allerton. It is the outer- 
 most land of Boston Bay, which embraces between this land's 
 end and Point Shirley ahout seventy-five square miles, and 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 61 
 
 nearly one hundred islands and rocks having names. Near 
 Fort Warren we left the Narrows or Bug Light. Then 
 comes Boston Light, on a rock, connected at low tide with 
 "Great Brewster." On the southernmost part of "Great 
 Brewster" is Beacon Island. It was near here that the 
 " Shannon" backed her topsails, and hoisted her challenge 
 to the "Chesapeake," then lying in President's Road, to 
 come and fight her. Capt. Lawrence, too chivalric a spirit 
 to decline the invitation to combat, sailed, with a drunken 
 and mutinous crew, to defeat and death, bequeathing in his 
 last moments that memorable watchword to his gallant tars 
 (those who remained true to him), " Don't give up the ship ! " 
 
 Having steamed out through lighthouse channel, past 
 Point Allerton, the open sea is before us, and on this 
 intensely hot day, when several deaths from sun-stroke in 
 Boston occurred, the delightful breeze off the broad bosom 
 of the Atlantic Ocean was most refreshing to the jaded 
 people from the heated city, and appreciated accordingly. 
 The steamer now heads southeast, coasting the shores of 
 the historic Old Colony. Numerous rocky ledges and light- 
 houses meet us on our way, as we approach Provincetown, 
 and the large party of vo} - agers are on the alert to catch a 
 glimpse of the picturesque old town. The kk Empire State" 
 steamed gayly up to the commodious landing pifir, with her 
 flags waving, and the magnificent band of twenty-four pieces 
 discoursing martial music, much to the delight of the natives 
 assembled on the wharf. Apropos of the music, a fine pro- 
 gramme of excellent instrumental and soloist performances 
 were given on board, enhanced by quite a young and charm- 
 ing lady singer, named Miss Bessy. Much disappointment 
 was evinced by the great bulk of the passengers, who were 
 not allowed to land, except those who wished to remain over 
 in Provincetown. The writer of these sketches was one of 
 the stop-overs, and intended to explore Cape Cod on terra 
 Jirma. He nimbly leaped ashore as soon as possible, and 
 went along the immense pier, with the burning sun pouring 
 its scorching rays on our devoted head, till we were safely 
 shaded in one of the pleasant, quaint, cosy hotels which 
 Provincetown is so famed for. 
 
 In the mean while the band struck up the tune of the 
 
62 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 " Girl I left behind me," causing some of the ladies on the 
 pier to smile and blush, then the huge craft with its two 
 funnels slowly swung around, straining at its ponderous 
 hawser, and turning her bow homeward, for the sixty miles 
 of ocean travel back to Boston. 
 
 Cape Cod Harbor is a world-renowned haven of refuge 
 for the storm- tossed mariner. Provincetown lies on the 
 slopes and along the foot of the range of highland hills 
 before us, on the highest of which the old Town Hall for- 
 merly stood conspicuous, till burned, some years ago. A 
 new Town Hall has been erected among the residences near 
 the foot of the hill. A tablet is placed in the walls, com- 
 memorating the first landing of Pilgrims on American soil. 
 The harbor is shallow, but is often crowded with shipping, 
 waiting for a favorable wind to get around the Cape. The 
 view from Town Hill is splendid ; the broad, majestic ocean 
 and Massachusetts Bay are visible from its summit. At 
 sunset the sight is very beautiful, and at night the scene is 
 one of grandeur. Overlooking the bay, with its numerous 
 lighthouses, and the calm sea, the stillness around causes 
 one to thank his fortune that he is far removed from the 
 large city's busy turmoil. 
 
 On descending the hill-side to the Pilgrim House, a quaint 
 old hostel, with a kind old landlord, we find that good 
 quarters are here, with nice, comfortable bedrooms and a 
 very generous table, fish at almost every meal, if the visitor 
 so wishes, freshly caught from the bay, and cooked as only 
 shore cooks can cook them. All kinds of travellers are 
 around here : the fat, burly, saucy drummer from Boston or 
 elsewhere, who imagines that Provincetown, or, in fact, every 
 town was made specially for him or his tribe ; his ideas are 
 so very large, and his noisy voice is heard everywhere, inside 
 and outside of the hotel, the conversation constantly of self, 
 being uppermost. The old, stale anecdotes of experiences, on 
 the road and off of it, jar on the ears of the listeners, by being 
 retold with all the impudence and effrontery appertaining to 
 his class. Then again, we had another drummer boarder 
 here, " a gentleman corn doctor " whom we found assorting 
 from his satchel some of the wonderful square-shaped com- 
 pounds of his vaunted remedy for the cure of all kinds of 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 63 
 
 corns, warts, and bunions. Unlike the fat drummer, the 
 corn doctor was lean and genteel-looking, wearing eve- 
 glasses, and with plenty to say for himself, in the recom- 
 mendation of the mysterious corn salve. This gentleman 
 had travelled the country over, according to his own glib 
 statement, as an itinerant vender of the healing plasters. 
 He told us, his plan of operations used to be, on opening 
 his stock in trade at a convenient street corner of a town of 
 an evening, he would commence the preliminaries of business 
 by singing a song to the accompaniment of an accordion, at 
 which he-was an adept. "But now," the "doctor" said, 
 "I do trade different from that, by calling on most of the 
 well-to-do residents of a town, and in a respectful and 
 respectable manner solicit orders for the wonderful corn 
 cure " ; and he informed us that at times he made a good 
 deal of money. The fat drummer insinuated that the salve 
 only burned the sufferer's toes, which caused a belief in the 
 minds of the patients of a riddance of the excrescence. 
 The doctor merely laughed, and said, " No such thing; it 
 cures in time, if they will only take enough of it." The 
 quack doctor's experiences of years ago were very humor- 
 some. One day, after selling all his stock at a country 
 town, a farmer offered to carry him and a party of young 
 men and girls around the district, in a village tip-cart, if the 
 vender would play his accordion the while ; accordingly, off 
 they started, the musical instrument in full force, and the 
 company singing to the strength of their lungs ; when, lo and 
 behold, some rustic wag had slily removed the pin which 
 held the body of the tip-cart together, and in the jolting of 
 the rude vehicle, it fell over backwards, corn doctor, accor- 
 dion, and all the company falling pell-mell together on the 
 roadway. 
 
 The town is built upon a narrow strip of level land, lying 
 between a range of high sand-hills and the shoi'e. The 
 principal street is a narrow thoroughfare, between two and 
 three miles long, skirting the shore, with a raised plank side- 
 walk running the whole distance, and a smooth, tolerably 
 firm roadway, made of shells and loam. Upon one side are 
 the dwellings, facing the harbor ; upon the other are the 
 stores, which we noticed kept open till past nine o'clock for 
 
64 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 the transaction of business. There is one other street run- 
 ning parallel to this, a hundred feet or so back, and immedi- 
 ately in the rear of the houses, fronting upon which are the 
 sand-hills. The town was originally built upon the loose 
 sand, in which vegetation would not grow r , but soil was 
 brought from other parts and mixed with it, and now tall 
 willow, cottonwood, and maple trees and vegetable gardens 
 thrive very fairly in this somewhat artificial mother-earth. 
 The village is built mainly upon one street, which commences 
 some three miles from Race Point, the termination of Cape 
 Cod, and follows for several miles the curving lines of the 
 harbor. The township consists mainly of loose, w T hite sand, 
 which the wind has driven into fantastic knolls, and which 
 are subject to incessant changes. There is not a single 
 farm in the whole township ; the streets and, in fact, all this 
 part of the Cape, are one mass of loose, white sand, and the 
 visitors, on taking their walk around, in a few moments 
 generally get covered with dust and sand. To obviate this 
 little discomfort, brushes are kept handy at the hotels for 
 the use of the tourists ; though one may brush fifty times a 
 day, the clinging, sticky, sandy particles still adhere to the 
 boots and clothing of the pedestrians, so that rough, blue 
 sailor suits are much in vogue here as elsewhere on the Cape. 
 It is a well-known historical fact that the "Mayflower" 
 first entered Frovincetown harbor, and there the first child 
 (Peregrine White) was born. The vessel remained at an- 
 chor there, while a portion of the crew and passengers made 
 explorations in a shallop, looking for a suitable place for a 
 permanent residence. It was this party in the shallop who 
 made the famous "landing" at Plymouth. The associa- 
 tions of the brave little band of men and women who landed 
 here are full of interest, when we remember their trials and 
 sufferings from the time the ship " Mayflower " first anchored 
 at Cape Cod until the following spring found them emerging 
 from the dark valley of the shadow of death, with only half 
 their original number ; so that every foot of the ground is 
 historic and dear to Americans. 
 
 Aside from its importance as a harbor of refuge, Province- 
 town owes its rise, in some measure, to the George's fishery, 
 for which it is admirably adapted and situated, giving employ- 
 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 65 
 
 nient to a large number of men. The population consists of 
 almost every nationality, and numbers some six thousand 
 inhabitants ; the Portuguese appear to be the predominating 
 race. Some of the streets are named after the brave 
 pioneers of years ago, Standish, Bradford, and Wiuslow 
 being easily recognized. The town, having few trees and 
 no gardens to speak of, has a curious effect on the beholder, 
 who walks around in a dazed, bewildered way ot the strange 
 appearance of everything he sees. It realizes the idea of a 
 desert more vividly than any other spot of ground in New 
 England. Great trade is done here in the mackerel fishery. 
 We saw thousands of barrels of these and other fish packed 
 in the sheds at the pier head, awaiting shipment to the big 
 markets. The freight-car tracks are laid all along the fine, 
 long steamboat pier, and the promenade is quite an enjoy- 
 able breezy walk of an evening. The codfish, once so abun- 
 dant here, has now to be sought on George's or Grand 
 Banks ; and the whale, oncet aken so close to the shore, is 
 seldom seen in these waters, though occasionally a capture 
 is made, two whales having been seen lately and shot by a 
 sea captain ; one leviathan being lost, the other towed ashore. 
 The reason for the whales being sometimes found in close 
 proximity to the coast is, the small fishes they feed on are 
 located hereabouts in great quantities. 
 
 Hyannis. 
 
 The journey from one end of the Cape to the other is full 
 of interest. After a very early breakfast at the Hotel 
 Pilgrim, we started from the Province town depot at a quarter 
 past five o'clock in the morning, there being but two through 
 trains daily : early morn and mid-day. It was very refresh- 
 ing, as we breathed the delicious, cool morning air, blowing 
 breezy and fresh from the bay. and the few friends who had 
 got out early enough to see their relatives off tearfully bid 
 their adieus to the departing train that carried their kinsfolks 
 away from kind, quaint old Provincetown, en route to Hyannis. 
 
 Rapidly we passed through scenery so strange looking and 
 so sandy in appearance, and by villages and dwellings so 
 peculiarly antique in. shape and in weather-beaten colors as 
 
66 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 to give one the impression of a migration to some foreign 
 shore, though the ride was far from being tiresome or weari- 
 some. High hills of sand, gray, sombre, and desolate, 
 covered in some places with a stunted growth of pines or tall 
 beach grass, and in others entirely bare, stretch away on 
 either hand, with now and then a far-off glimpse of the 
 ocean or bay through some sandy ravine These are suc- 
 ceeded by stretches of attempts in cultivated land, showing 
 evidences of toiling tillage, and these in turn by vast, level 
 plains of sand, destitute of vegetation, or by low marshes, 
 caused by some dyke or embankment that has cut off the 
 ebb and flow of the tide. The road winds in and out among 
 these hills and marshes, with many curves between the ter- 
 mini, — almost a complete circle. On the way we espied 
 many thriving and pretty villages, and at the various stop- 
 ping places at the way-stations numerous were the passengers 
 taken in and set down in these quaint hamlets, appearing to 
 the traveller as if most of the " Cape Cod folks " were bent 
 on making the best of their holiday vacation in this glorious, 
 sunny, July month. 
 
 After a run of about two hours, Yarmouth is reached, — 
 a pretty little hamlet, noted for its yearly religious camping 
 attractions early in August. A junction is here for passen- 
 gers to take diverging roads ; some keeping the main-line route, 
 which carries them to Boston and Fairhaven ; and others, the 
 writer included, take the short branch line to the pretty 
 district of Hyannis. A pleasant ride of some four miles, 
 mostly through groves and camping grounds, briugs us to 
 our destination. Stages and carriages meet every incoming 
 train to carry the wayfarers who wish to see the " Port," as 
 it is termed ; a nice ride of some five miles to the shore, where 
 the elite of the summer visitors congregate, and where there 
 is a commodious hotel and some good cottages on the bluffs, a 
 miniature Cottage City. Strolling to the end of the pier, one 
 finds sail-boats and row-boats at hand for fishing or pleasure- 
 sailing ; the invigorating and healthy sea breeze is very notice- 
 able on the tanned cheeks of the sojourners staying here. 
 
 On taking a sail across the bay, we had a fine view of 
 some pretty little islands and a sturdy-looking breakwater, 
 which seemed to defy the action of the waves against its 
 
E AMBLES IN AMEEICA. 67 
 
 solid masonry. Like Nantucket in a less degree, the salubri- 
 ousuess of the sea air is very observable here, and it is 
 accounted a very healthy place for the invalid, or those 
 overworked city men and their wives and families who re- 
 quire rest and change of air and scene. It was somewhat 
 alarmingly noticeable with what freedom quite young boys 
 and girls went out in row-boats and sailing craft, unattended 
 by competent sailing-masters, the rough, throbbing, turbulent 
 sea causing one to think of some likely danger of a sudden 
 squall to these young novices, in the upsetting of their frail 
 little barks. We watched with surprise these adventurous 
 young mariners, going right out into the bay ; and surmising 
 their parents and guardians must have been a queer, care- 
 less set, to have allowed such peril to those most dear to 
 them. 
 
 Hyannis is made up of very genteel residences, with good- 
 sized gardens, in a fair way of cultivation ; a large hotel is 
 located here, and several livery stables for carriage letting ; 
 the whole surroundings of this charming vicinity are very 
 agreeable to the beholder, particularly at the first time of 
 seeing the place, and leave quite a favorable impression of 
 its many pleasant walks and drives. As in most town- 
 ships along the Gape, innumerable fine views are to be seen 
 of Father Ocean in all its purity and grandeur. Returning 
 back to Yarmouth Junction, we once more'took cars on the 
 main line en route to Sandwich, a distance of some twenty 
 miles. 
 
 Sandwich. 
 
 Some friends of the writer were in waiting at the Sand- 
 wich (proper) depot to receive him ; there are three Sand- 
 wiches named on the railway time schedule, but two out of 
 them seem to be way-stations. The chief business and main 
 stay of the town formerly was the Boston and Sandwich 
 Glass Company, since closed (another glass corporation was 
 in formation) , and the Tack Works ; in fact, very little life 
 would be observable in this somewhat stagnant township, 
 without the aid of the factor} 7 operatives. 
 
 The principal topic of conversation of all the towns-people 
 
68 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 in the summer of 1883 was the projected scheme of canal- 
 cutting through the outlying lowlands and marshes of Sand- 
 wich, from Buzzard's Bay to Massachusetts Bay ; a connect- 
 ing link of, we believe,- seven miles of arduous deep delving 
 and cutting ; but the benefits arising therefrom will be of in- 
 calculable value, and thus saving some hundred miles of tedious 
 navigation on this coast of storms ; and if the expensive 
 project is carried out as proposed, land around and about 
 Sandwich will rise greatly in value, by the great undertaking 
 of the Cape Cod Canal, not only just here, but all along the 
 Cape ; real estate will become more valuable by the impetus 
 given to the shipping interest and all connected therewith. 
 
 Cape Cod Canal. 
 
 Jan. 1, 1885. Iu a notice of one of the reports, Mr. 
 Fessenden, treasurer of the Cape Cod Canal Company, 
 estimates the cost of cutting the canal at $7,500,000, and 
 that it will take three years to complete the work. The ma- 
 chine now working, removes three hundred square feet of earth 
 per day, to a depth that will float a contemplated machine to 
 follow after the first, digging it much deeper. It is estimated 
 the annual saving on transportation of coal to Boston by 
 this route over the old will go far toward paying good divi- 
 dends on the cost. It is understood that Congress will be 
 applied to, for an appropriation to aid in finishing the work. 
 The present population is about two thousand five hundred 
 inhabitants. 
 
 Sandwich, considering its sandy soil, has some nice large 
 yards and gardens attached to the better class of residences, 
 and also some pleasant cultivated lots, in rear of the artisans' 
 dwellings, few of whom, instead of drinking their hard-earned 
 wages away, have saved money enough to purchase little 
 homesteads of their own, and can hold their heads up with 
 dignity, as being owners of some real estate ; instead of 
 having the mien and downcast, poverty-stricken look of the 
 miserable drinkiug-man, who fritters away substnnce and 
 health, also ruining the happiness and future prospects of 
 his wife and family, and all those connected with him. A 
 friend of mine has purchased, out of his savings, a small 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 69 
 
 homestead, and added to it a chicken farm ; he and his wife 
 are proud of their little property, and their success in the 
 venture of poultry raising has endeared them to the place, 
 and built up quite a business in the sale of eggs and plump 
 chickens. While staying in Sandwich, from Saturday till 
 Monday, one of those sudden changes in the barometer oc- 
 curred, so peculiar to New England ; the thermometer fell 
 thirty degrees in the night of Saturday and Sunday morning. 
 From the stifling, choking heat of a few hours before, the 
 Sabbath morn ushered in one of the coldest snaps on record 
 for July ; and by the newspaper accounts, this Sunday cold 
 wave partly ruined the Nantasket and other hotel keepers of 
 popular shore places, as the owners had provided largely for 
 a big hot Sunday and Monday ; the result being, tons of pro- 
 visions had to be thrown away. As the wind was almost 
 blowing a gale, interspersed with fitful rain-squalls, we ven- 
 tured to the beach to see the surf in its grandeur, and 
 witnessed a somewhat sad sight of the ravages of the sea. 
 A few hundred yards from the shore was a poor man's sail- 
 boat, rolling in the heavy sfirf , fast becoming a total wreck. 
 The change in the night's temperature had caused the sea to 
 do its work of fury on the little craft, and as the timbers of 
 the vessel parted, and were washed ashore, piecemeal, the 
 owner of the unfortunate craft sorrowfully picked them up, 
 and then laid the pieces out of reach of the boiling, seething 
 surf ; but the loss of his property was too much for him, and 
 the sympathy of the little knot of lookers on nearly over- 
 powered him ; he wandered away from the sight and sound of 
 the angry element that had devoured up his little all. One 
 amusing incident out of the misery was that of a good- 
 natured Irishman, — a sort of nondescript fisherman, who 
 generously endeavored to save the boat, or part of it. 
 Stripping his clothes off, and in the cold, piercing, bleak 
 wind, brave Pat, alone and unaided, dashed into the boiling 
 surf, knife in hand, to cut the cordage and drift the wreck 
 on shore, where plenty of willing idlers would have assisted 
 him, but the brave-hearted son of Erin's efforts were useless. 
 The hull, or what remained of it, was too firmly embedded 
 in the sand to move for one man's strength. Returning 
 from the almost icy water, and his body blue with cold, our 
 
70 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 Irish friend, with all the sang-froid imaginable, redressed, 
 singing and smiling as he put on his garments, just as if it 
 was a warm bath he had emerged from, instead of a very 
 cold one. 
 
 There are many lakes and ponds around Sandwich, and 
 my friends told me in one of these waters some tame fish 
 are located. The finny tribe come to a lachy's call, and 
 receive their daily allowance of food from her fair hands. 
 The lady's resideuce is in close proximity to the lake, and 
 the towns-people often see her feeding her pets. 
 
 Buzzard's Bay. 
 
 Still on the Cape, we dashed onward from Sandwich to 
 Buzzard's Bay, a busy railway junction of the Old Colony 
 Company. Trains from Boston, Fairhaven, and other places 
 are continually going and coming here, particularly in the 
 summer season, when the city relative visits the country 
 cousin for a week or two's fishing. 
 
 In staying over here an hour, for a change of cars for Fal- 
 mouth, what one could see of the place appeared as if the 
 station was settled in the middle of a field, near the inlet of 
 a pretty little bay, emerging from the ocean. Some few 
 genteel residences are seen here, situated in the midst of 
 cultivated gardens, laid out with much taste and great ex- 
 pense ; no doubt a more extended view would lead to many 
 natural beauties of brake and glen, babbling brooks and flow- 
 ing cascades, emanating and branching out of the ever 
 coming and going tide of the Great Lake. 
 
 Falmouth. 
 
 Leaving Buzzard's Bay, and its many trains of incoming 
 and outgoing passengers, some seeking for health, and 
 returning with bronzed faces and bright eyes, we turn to- 
 wards Falmouth, passing on our transit many very pretty 
 seashore resorts, such as Monument, Pocasset, and some 
 others, all coming quietly into notice every year. Young 
 collegians, home for their vacations, accompanied by sisters, 
 cousins, and aunts, assemble here, and enjoy their freedom 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 71 
 
 from study ; drinking in fresh stocks of health and vigor with 
 every breath they draw of the pure and unadulterated salt air 
 of breezy oeeau, close by. Arriving at Falmouth station, we 
 were speedily ensconced in a carriage and driven to the 
 " Hotel Falmouth." This commodious and large hotel de- 
 serves a word of commendation ; the obliging proprietor, Col. 
 Dimick, and his office clerks, are very pleasant folks, and all 
 the arrangements here are very good ; excellent bill of fare 
 and well-furnished bedrooms, and the hotel is situated quite 
 central, and near the water for fishing, boating, bathing, etc. 
 On the following morning of our arrival we inspected the 
 " Heights," another edition of Martha's Vineyard, of the Bluffs 
 district. About sixty cottages dot its surface around Fal- 
 mouth, and the view from their windows must be very 
 charming ; a large, well-appointed hotel is one of the promi- 
 nent buildings of the " Heights." A kindly old gentleman, 
 a cottage owner from Worcester, Mass., took the writer in 
 hand, and generously showed him through, explaining every- 
 thing worth knowing ; how the circle of cottage life is man- 
 aged. Two strong, able men have charge of all the cottages 
 during the winter season, at three dollars per year each 
 dwelling ; their duties being to look after the houses in cold 
 season, cleaning away snow-drifts, and air the buildings oc- 
 casionally ; the same men cut the grass in summer, and fetch 
 and carry pails of water at two cents per pail (this being 
 extra), and attend to the sanitary arrangements at nightfall, 
 by burying the soil from the cottages, there being no cesspools 
 on the place. The view from Falmouth Heights, overlooking 
 the Bay and Vineyard Sound, is extremely beautiful, and 
 it was no surprise to find my kind guide so pleased and 
 contented with his cottage location, far away from the 
 heated city of Worcester. Fishing and boating parties 
 are every day made up from the hotels and residences, 
 when the weather and wind is considered suitable for the 
 outing. Bathing is much in vogue here, and the young 
 people (and old ones, too) paddle and swim in the briny, 
 with all the zest of pent-up city folks, and to their hearts' 
 delight enjoy the delicious freedom of a vacation holiday. 
 A few days after we left Falmouth, a serious accident oc- 
 curred somewhere near the Heights ; a four-in-hand ' ' Tally 
 
72 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 ho" coach, on ascending the eminence, packed with a merry 
 party of gentlemen, was suddenly overturned by the horses 
 becoming unmanageable ; amongst the most injured, Col. 
 Dirnick was mentioned as one of the number ; we trust, how- 
 ever, that he and the other unfortunate gentlemen have long 
 ago recovered from their tumble and shock down the bluffs. 
 
 A short ride of about four miles brings us to Woods Holl. 
 where we take the New Bedford steamer for home. 
 
 Onset Bay. 
 
 One of the pleasantest and prettiest sails out of New 
 Bedford is the trip to Onset Bay. The journey is quite a 
 smooth river ride, and the varied scenery along the Cape 
 shore makes it a very enlivening excursion. As the traveller 
 nears Onset Ba}", a little cluster of islands dot its entrance, 
 with fresh verdure and foliage charming to behold ; the 
 shallow water at low tide oftentimes causes some delay and 
 inconvenience to passengers and to the steamer's landing 
 at the wharf, though through the skilful pilot's good steer- 
 ing and knowledge of the shoals — which here abound — 
 an effective disembarkation generally takes place. Onset 
 Bay, of a Sunday in the camping season, is quite a lively 
 affair, and will bear good comparison with the camping at 
 Martha's Vineyard. In the summers of 1882 and 1883, on 
 some Sabbath days fully six thousand persons were present, 
 the visitors coming by boat, rail, and teams, from all parts, 
 the majority of the company being Spiritualists, who congre- 
 gate here for a few weeks' vacation and spiritual intercourse 
 with evident enjoyment. A very fine band from Middleboro 
 discoursed some excellent music, followed by singing of the 
 society's choir. The speakers on the theme of Spiritualism 
 were invariably ladies and gentlemen of eloquence and ability, 
 and were listened to by the large audience in the grove with 
 much attention. A commodious hotel restaurant has just 
 been built, where visitors can get a decent dinner, and a 
 little further in the bay, across a small inlet, navigable by 
 boats, is a clam-bake dinner, every Sunday while the Spirit- 
 ualists are in session, and which repast in its rough way is 
 very excellent, and seemed to be well patronized. Onset 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 73 
 
 Bay is a very growing place ; the land is being bought up in 
 lots, and will no doubt give a good return to the cottage 
 builders and investors. Some avenues and roads have been 
 constructed, and great progress every year is being made, and 
 a marked improvement enacted in its surroundings. To a 
 lover of retirement (on week-days) this charming bay could 
 be strongly recommended. There are good sailing and fish- 
 ing in the bay, pleasant reunions on land, with the sociable 
 friends along its hospitable shore. The forest fires along 
 Cape Cod, particularly in and about Sandwich, were veiy de- 
 structive the summer of 18H2, and every night during August 
 the fires illuminated the horizon on the Cape shore, and the 
 sight at times was exceedingly grand and imposing. Occa- 
 sionally the flames could be seen as they wrapped the tallest 
 pines ; and the swiftness with which they were consumed 
 gave some idea of the hurrying march of the fiery element. 
 The largest fires were in West Sandwich, another place 
 called Spring Hill, where the flames were at least one mile 
 wide, and burning fiercely, traversing good woodland. The 
 wind was so strong, one day, that the conflagration leaped 
 across one of the widest thoroughfares in Sandwich It was 
 understood that when the fire was at its height, the men had 
 withdrawn all efforts of stopping the flames, their attempts 
 being useless. 
 
 President Cleveland's "Wife. — Marion, Mass. 
 
 About fifteen miles from New Bedford, Mass., is a pleas- 
 ant little township on the Cape, called Marion, — a noted 
 place for summer visitors to pass a few weeks of the hot 
 season in, partly on account of the advantages of the pretty, 
 natural inlet of the waters of Buzzard's Bay, and for yacht- 
 ing, fishing, and bathing purposes. Mrs. Grover Cleveland 
 paid this quaint little hamlet a visit of some five weeks' dura- 
 tion in August and September, 1887, and caused by her pres- 
 ence to popularize Marion from its natural seclusion of a quiet 
 watering resort to a well-known town, far and wide. The 
 writer, having an invitation from a gentleman friend at Marion 
 for a day's sail in his yacht, welcomed the invite, inasmuch as 
 the narrator wished to see the lady of the White House in 
 
74 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 her pastoral garb of unassuming mien. To see Mrs. Cleve- 
 land on the lawn of Gen. Greely's house, watching her host's 
 children sportively playing, she seemed as if eager to join in 
 the youngsters' sports, and to shake off, for the time, at 
 least, the stately dignity of receiving foreign diplomats at 
 Washington and other receptions of her own people. The 
 president's wife entered her carriage, accompanied by other 
 ladies, and escorted by Gen. Greely, bent on a mission to a 
 garden party in Marion. Nothing could exceed the grace- 
 ful bow and smile with which Mrs. Cleveland greeted the 
 obeisance of the scribe, as he stood uncovered while the 
 equipage passed him on the country road. The first lady iu 
 the land of America, as she is termed, appeared very young- 
 looking, of the medium height, dressed quietly in black silk 
 attire, and with a very pleasant, charming, expressive coun- 
 tenance, and it is no great surprise that this apparently 
 amiable lady has won the hearts of Marion folks by her 
 simple, unaffected manner, and raised the once quiet town 
 into a well-known summer resort for Americans and others. 
 
 Taunton, Mass., Revisited. 
 
 After an absence of many years, in revisiting a locality one 
 naturally expects to find many alterations. This was no1 
 the case here, for most of the old landmarks around about 
 the Four Corners had remained, with a few more newbj 
 erected dwellings of the villa and cottage size, the most visi- 
 ble difference being the extension of Messrs. Reed & Barton's 
 works, the celebrated silver ware manufacturers, whose some^ 
 what small business premises of twenty years ago are no\^ 
 replaced by a square of blocks of brick-built workshops ol 
 the most commodious kind. Some of the old hands were 
 found still working for this excellent firm in the same routine 
 way as when the writer first visited Taunton, nearly a quar- 
 ter of a century ago. Another long range of buildings, called 
 the Whittenton Mills, for making cotton cloth, employing 
 some hundreds of men and women in their extensive work- 
 rooms, also made an impression on the traveller of manj 
 lands, who beheld the comfortable-looking mills and the 
 employees' dwelling-houses for the first time. Around and 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 75 
 
 about the " Green," iu the centre of the city, there has neces- 
 sarily been many changes, improvements, and alterations, 
 such as new buildings and stores, a theatre, and a very 
 handsome water fountain adorns the green " sward opposite 
 the City Hotel, and several new churches have been erected 
 within a few years, including a Catholic granite edifice. A 
 line of horse-cars from the Weir to the Whittenton is one 
 of the conveniences which assist to complete the transforma- 
 tion scene now being enacted of life's changes in the forward 
 march of this age of progress. 
 
 Quite a pleasant place is the " Green," particularly on 
 busy da,ys and Saturday morning's auction sales near the 
 ■enclosure, where the farmers buy and sell all sorts of agri- 
 cultural implements, and try to trade off horses and cows, 
 pigs and chickens ; but the great event of the week is Satur- 
 day evenings, when the store-keepers dress their windows 
 to meet the eye of the numerous strollers from all parts of 
 Taunton and the suburbs ; the industrious workers from the 
 adjacent mills and various factories find a rest and relief by 
 a visit to the cheerful " Green," where animation reigns su- 
 preme, and where the promenade (amidst the well-lighted 
 stores) of young men and maidens passing to and fro causes 
 much amusement of recognition. Within a short time a new 
 depot has been erected at Whittenton bj r the Old Colony 
 Railway Company, and an enlargement of the main depot 
 (Wales Street) has been effected, on account of the increas- 
 ing traffic through to Boston, Providence, and elsewhere. 
 Near this railroad station are the very extensive works of 
 Messrs. Mason & Co., who are known over the wide world 
 •for the manufacture of their celebrated locomotives. In 
 April, 1883, Ex-President Diaz of Mexico and suite in- 
 spected these works, while on a visit to the United States, 
 and were much pleased at what they saw in the various pro- 
 cesses of machine working power. The illustrious guests 
 ■also visited Messrs. Reed & Barton's silver-ware establish- 
 ment, and though this manufactory is of a totally different 
 nature from locomotive construction, yet the Ex-President 
 party were quite interested in the unique designs of the or- 
 namental articles submitted to their notice. The Episcopal 
 Church, Saint Thomas's, is a verv nice edifice ; the archi- 
 
76 KAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 tectnral arrangement of the interior is of good church build- 
 ing, and in character with the sacredness of the structure. 
 More up town, near the Four Corners, on Bay Street, is a 
 somewhat plain little church. Saint John's, Episcopal. The 
 writer, on a recent visit to Taunton, was much pleased and 
 impressed with the discourse of the resident officiating 
 clergyman, the Rev. Mr. Mansfield (since resigned), a gen- 
 tleman well qualified for his vocation in his endeavor to save 
 souls ; the earnestness and forcible speaking of the minister 
 were irresistible to the listener, and the sacred edifice deserved 
 to have had a more numerous congregation to hear so able a 
 preacher of the Lord's Holy Word. Both St. Thomas's and 
 St. John's churches some time since had a bequest of five 
 thousand dollars each, kindly bequeathed to them by the late 
 Mr. Crocker, of Taunton. 
 
 Perch Fishing, near Taunton. 
 
 Many enjoyable rides and drives on the outskirts of the 
 city are to be had, and nothing can be more pleasant of a 
 breezy spring morning than to take a dash along the country- 
 side as far as Lakeville and surrounding places, where there 
 are some good cultivated farms, with their busy life of hus- 
 bandry, in the midst of refreshing sights, sounds, and per- 
 fumes of Nature's sweet fragrance ; a good antidote to a 
 worn, weary business man, just released from artificial city 
 life. In fact, the neighborhood of Taunton comprises some 
 of the most beautiful cultivated lake scenery in Massachu- 
 setts ; and there are several streams, abounding with trout, 
 perch, and others of the finny tribe, which often induce the 
 formation of picnic parties among ladies and gentlemen, for 
 the purpose of angling for golden perch, a species of tish 
 very common in the American lakes and rivers, and ex- 
 tremely beautiful from the golden splendor of their bright 
 and shining scales. The narrator was invited to a party of 
 this description, and the place of our destination was a 
 stream running through a romantic glen some miles from 
 town. The ladies of our party were, after some little hesi- 
 tation, prevailed upon to wield their fishing-poles, and decoy 
 some of the wary perches from their watery haunts, vividly 
 reminding one of those lines of Izaak Walton : — 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 77 
 
 " The ladies angling in the crystal lake 
 Feast on the waters with the prey they take ; 
 At once victorious with their lines and eyes, 
 They make the fishes and the men their prize." 
 
 And surely some of my male acquaintances must have been 
 somewhat smitten with the fair anglers' charms, for while the 
 former unhooked the captive fish and furnished fresh bait, 
 they, with true American flattery, stated it as their strong 
 conviction, that the finny victims of these piscatorial charms 
 must have felt more pleasure than pain at being ensnared by 
 such fascinating auglers. We would fancy the poor fish, if 
 they thought at all, came to a very different conclusion. 
 When the day's sport was over, our party returned home, 
 delighted with their trip, and laden with piscatorial spoils, 
 which were afterwards cooked and laid before us, and duly 
 discussed with other delicacies at the supper given by our 
 kind entertainer. The company assembled on that evening 
 was composed partly of English and American friends, the 
 reunion being perfectly in harmony of sentiment, with a 
 strong disposition on the part of all present to contribute to 
 the cheerfulness and merriment of tlie gathering. A long 
 vista of years has passed since this episode just described, 
 and many of the gleeful company have gone to their long 
 rest ; yet the pleasing remembrance of old friends is ever 
 fresh and green in the mind of the narrator, as a cheerful 
 item of past memories. 
 
 Squabetty, and its Myriads of Fish. 
 
 As historian of the present as well as the past of 
 this great continent, kindly accompany the biographer in 
 his rovings to another fishing excursion of quite recent date 
 {May, 1890), and of a totally different character in the 
 habits and mode of catching fish. Before describing the 
 herring fishery, permit the writer and the young friend 
 who accompanied him to say a few words of the road on 
 which we passed. A very pleasant carriage drive of some 
 five miles from Taunton Centre brings the tourist to a vil- 
 lage called Squabetty (once a thriving iron-works), in the 
 East Taunton district. On the road thither, either walking 
 
78 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 or riding, particularly along Dean Street, it is simply delight- 
 ful to watch the pretty flowing river, with its well-cultivated 
 grassy banks aud gardens on either side ; and the old homes 
 of the Dean family are here marked out, with reminiscences of 
 the early transfer of the surrounding lands. A new, sub- 
 stantial bridge at this point crosses the Taunton River to- 
 wards a fine modern-built water-works, a visit to which is of 
 very interesting character. Farther along to a junction of 
 roads we come to a large peach orchard, of very superior 
 kind, and the early bloom of pink blossoms gave a beautify- 
 ing aspect to the well-kept grounds. On descending the bill- 
 side to the valley approaching Squabetty village is a magnif- 
 icent avenue of elm-trees, bending over and clinging in their 
 umbrageous embrace, as it were, which must be, when in full 
 verdure of leafy foliage, a shady retreat of great enjoyment. 
 
 About the middle of April is the usual swarming time 
 for the herrings to leave their sea haunts for the spawning 
 grounds on the Taunton Kiver, in the neighborhood of Mid- 
 dleboro, and that place is the chief station for seining or 
 netting what fish are wanted ; two other fishing-pounds are at 
 Dighton and Somerset. A small dam, or miniature water- 
 fall, is just by the bridge at Squabetty, and in their frantic 
 endeavors to reach the smooth waters of the Taunton River, 
 the unfortunate herrings have an insurmountable obstacle — 
 that of the turbulent weir — to pass ; thousands, tens of thou- 
 sands, perhaps millions of these sturdy, plucky fish attempt 
 to swim against the avalanche, to get over to the glassy 
 stream beyond ; a few pass over, but the majority are thrown 
 back by the dam's current, some injured fatally, while others 
 are thrown bodily on to the shore. In their eagerness to get 
 through, their shining, scaly bodies are oftentimes hurled 
 from five to seven feet high, falling back in the rapid cur- 
 rent, or cast on to the banks. With amazement the visitor 
 beholds this humble and sometimes despised fish show such 
 strength and indomitable will to pass the rapids to its prop- 
 agating home, and in the bright sunlight, the coruscation of 
 the flying myriads of fish almost dazzles the on-lookers by 
 this curious phenomenon of natural wonder. 
 
 To assist the herring tribe, the renters of the waters have 
 invented what is called " The Boxes" ; a sort of plank divis- 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. - 
 
 79 
 
 ion, of strong woodwork, is built and fixed securely in a 
 kind of canal rapid, the other side of the waterfall, thus 
 forming a breakwater in sections, and the velocity of the 
 rushing stream hurls the fish into these safety boxes, where 
 the finny creatures rest, preparatory to another venture into 
 the next division of the boxes, where the fish pant and re- 
 cover their strength for other attempts to go on for a few 
 yards more, when the brave fellows get into the smooth water 
 of Taunton River. 
 
 The writer of these pages was much amused at witness- 
 ing the tenacity of purpose of these fish in preparing to gen- 
 erate their young ; in the same way, small birds will work 
 with their little bodies, with such untiring zeal, in the build- 
 ing of their nests ; and the common herring has a greater 
 value in one's eyes, when we behold their almost savage 
 fight with the watery elements, in trying to get to their 
 yearly abode to propagate, and an observer can feel great 
 
80 I! AMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 respect for this lmmble lish species, in their heroic efforts to 
 reach the river home of their infancy. 
 
 Taunton Insane Asylum. 
 
 This institution, said to be one of the finest and best con- 
 ducted in the country, is situated in the suburbs of Taunton. 
 We were courteously received by the chief medical super- 
 intendent, and shown through the various wards by his 
 assistant surgeon, who seemed to have great influence over 
 the unfortunate patients. To attempt to describe the differ- 
 ent phases of madness of the miserable beings incarcerated 
 here would be too harrowing in detail ; suffice it to say, that 
 religious mania of various grades, excessive rum drinking 
 results, and inherent insanity, running through families for 
 generations, by marriages which are worse than wicked, 
 make up the sum total of nearly all iusane asylums. 
 
 The Taunton asylum is pleasantly situated on elevated 
 ground, a little out of the city ; the buildings, which are large 
 and spacious, command a noble view of the surrounding 
 country. In short, the splendid accommodations for the 
 patients, the admirable arrangements throughout, and the 
 apparently humane, kind treatment of the suffering inmates, 
 all claim for this hospital the character of being one of the 
 noblest institutions in America for suffering humanity ; and 
 vies with the mother country, England, in kindred and good 
 emulation, by endeavoring to alleviate the poor, stricken, rea- 
 son-bereft souls, in their pitiful infirmity. In visiting this 
 asylum, some years ago, the most affecting case in the 
 women's department was that of a young lady, about nine- 
 teen years old ; but though so young, at the point of death. 
 When we entered her little bed-chamber, she partly turned 
 round on her cot, and her countenance bore, as is not unu- 
 sual in such cases, the impress of returning reason, prior to 
 dissolution. The doctor felt her pulse, and whispered in 
 my ear that she was sinking fast : nor could one help think- 
 ing how this bud of fair promise had been blighted, how the 
 joy of her family and friends had been turned by her in- 
 firmity into poignant s"rrow. It was gratifying to observe 
 what kind and affectionate attentions she received from her 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 81 
 
 afflicted companions in confinement, and what care they 
 took to bring her, daily, fresh bouquets of wild flowers, to 
 adorn her death-bed ; a plain proof that even though the 
 lamp of reason burn dim, the affections and sympathies still 
 continue, undiminished in warmth and power. ' k The anxi- 
 ety of those around her," said my guide. " has hourly been 
 more intense, nor scarcely can I enter the ward, without 
 being led to the poor girl's bedside ; for these unfortunates 
 imagine, like some sane persons, that our art can accomplish 
 miracles. However," added he, *' her sufferings will soon be 
 over, for the pulse already is nearly imperceptible, and the 
 unerring sign of returning reason leaves but little doubt of 
 her speedy death." This affecting scene is touchingly por- 
 trayed in the following sonnet, written impromptu by a 
 kinsman of mine, to whom I had mentioned the circum- 
 stance : — 
 
 " Upon a couch she lay — young, sick, and pale, 
 
 Bereft of reason's soul-inspiring beam, 
 She who had trod the hill and riowery dale — 
 
 A village Flora, wandering by the stream. 
 The roses from her peachy cheek had fled, 
 
 The lustre from her bright blue eyes was fading; 
 Those lips now pale, though once so warm and red. 
 
 As though ripe cherries were them shading; 
 Yet not alone, — for she had dreaming been, 
 
 And so dream'd of those then gone forever ; 
 But with those dreams came reason's potent queen 
 
 Yet once again, but soon, too soon, to sever, 
 For quick her bruis'd and weary spirit rlew 
 
 Up to the stars which shine in cloudless blue." 
 
 Since our long absence from Taunton, we found a new 
 wing had been added to the asylum, thus showing the in- 
 crease of insanity. Gloom, however, does not always rest 
 at this hospital. Festivities are provided by the thoughtful 
 managers occasionally, such as theatrical performances by 
 amateurs. Dancing, music, and games are indulged in by 
 the attendants and convalescent patients, the other invalids 
 looking stolidly on, sometimes with a gleam of reason and 
 sunshine on their blank faces. 
 
 The population of Taunton, in the census returns of 1885, 
 was 23,674. The recent census of 1890, when completed, 
 will in all probability enumerate the city about 27, ''00. 
 
82 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 The Floods at Taunton. 
 
 The mouth of February, 1889, will be long remembered 
 as an eventful episode to the inhabitants of Taunton and its 
 vicinity, by the disastrous flooding of the district, caused by 
 the freshets of copious rains, and ice aud snow suddenly 
 melting, thus pouring down on every available low land, like 
 a gigantic avalanche pushed on by rapid, turbid streams ; 
 breaking through dams, tearing bridges from their supports, 
 causing dwellings to totter and fall, factories to sap their 
 foundations, creating consternation and dismay on young 
 and old during the water-king's reign of terror of those 
 days in the sad awakening of the mighty power of rushing 
 waters and ravages of inundations. 
 
 Though the destruction of many thousands of dollars was 
 the result of this direful visitation, yet happily we record no 
 loss of life, though the calamity was felt very severely by 
 small property holders and tenants, who lost nearly all they 
 possessed, insurance on water damage being of no avail in 
 this instance. The fine brick-built factory of Messrs. Reed 
 & Barton's silver-ware works was injured some $10,000, 
 while Messrs. Loveriug's cotton mills at Whittenton suffered 
 to a still larger amount, and many others at the "Green'' 
 and "■Weir" were financial losers by the sudden loosening 
 of the surging element. 
 
 The mayor and City Council of Taunton were equal to the 
 occasion, and promptly, by its action, voted large sums of 
 money to quickly as possible repair the sad havoc made by 
 the floods, which caused immediate work for many men out 
 of employment. The tire department, police, and citizen 
 volunteers of the city worked with a will, night and day, till 
 nigh exhausted, iu their valiant efforts to save life and prop- 
 erty, calling forth much commendation for their energy and 
 bravery towards suffering humanity. 
 
 Hon. Henry M. Lovering, of Whittenton. 
 
 Mr. Lovering, a gentleman well known in Taunton, has, 
 we understand, generously given seven hundred square feet 
 of land in the suburbs of the city, near Scadding's Pond, for 
 the use of young men to play ball, or any other game of 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 83- 
 
 manly out-door sports. The ground will be graded and lev- 
 elled into proper form by the giver, and we may say such a gift 
 is a great boon in a growing neighborhood, where young peo- 
 ple can enjoy themselves untramelled, in a judicious manner, 
 either on Saturday afternoons or summer evenings, besides 
 being on a healthy recreation grassy land, after the confine- 
 ment of the business occupation of the day. The donor 
 deserves the thanks of the numerous recipients of this favor, 
 who, no doubt, will appreciate the offering by many a well- 
 contested game of base-ball in the future. 
 
 The anniversary of the cattle show and fair of Sept. 25, 
 and two following days, held on the outskirts of Taunton, 
 Bristol County, is a yearly event of much interest to the 
 farmer, mill-worker, and artisan, all of whom don their 
 holiday attire during the three gala days' amusement and 
 excitement. Factories and workshops generally shut down 
 on one of the days, when crowds of people inspect the fat 
 cattle, and criticise the trotting races around the well- 
 graded track. The hall for the exhibition of fruits and 
 vegetables, specimens of fine art-work, and choice ladies' 
 needle-work, is always well patronized by sight-seers. 
 
 Taunton's Great Celebration of June 4, 1889. 
 
 Never, perhaps, in the annals of celebration did the citizens 
 of any town or city work with such a will as the Tauntonites 
 did in preparing and organizing the vast event of its two- 
 hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the town's formation. 
 From the year 1639 to 1889 — almost from the day of the 
 Pilgrims' landing at Plymouth Rock — does Taunton trace her 
 two and a half centuries pedigree. And during the day of 
 June 4, 1889, the event was celebrated by story and song ; 
 interesting speeches of old reminiscences, till present time,, 
 were delivered by scholarly gentlemen of Massachusetts and 
 other States. The historical review by Judge Edmund H. 
 Bennett, at Music Hall, was an interesting and masterly 
 address, and, followed by the meritorious poem, by Henry 
 W. Colby, of historical events of the town's rise and prog- 
 ress, impressed its hearers with the many vicissitudes of a 
 two and a half centuries pedigree. Banquets, balls, ad~ 
 
#4 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 dresses, receptions, and Beethoven Society vocal singing, 
 followed by a grand dance in Armory Hall, with Reeves's full 
 hand in attendance, completed the first day's celebration; 
 and great credit is due to the various joint committees, by 
 their many months' efforts of preparation in thus carrying 
 out the wishes of the community of the district. The ban- 
 quet at Agricultural Hall was attended by Vice-President 
 Levi P Morton, Gov. Oliver Ames, and a number of dis- 
 tinguished guests. 
 
 The second day's festivities consisted of trades proces- 
 sion, historical tableaux, singing by children of public 
 schools, etc., concluding by an elaborate display of fireworks 
 in the evening. At eleven o'clock a. m. the procession 
 started on its line of march, passing through some of the 
 leading thoroughfares and a few side streets. The multi- 
 tude of people on the sidewalks and roadways, with the 
 influx of visitors from adjacent towns, numbered up in the 
 thousands. p>ery foot of ground and 'every vantage place 
 of window, piazza, or balcony were crowded with human 
 faces to catch a sight of Taunton's pageant. It is computed 
 that not less than twenty thousand sight-seers came from 
 neighboring cities, thus augmenting Taunton's own towns- 
 people by a large gathering of humanity. 
 
 It would tire the reader to enumerate all that was to be 
 seen on that ever-to-be-remembered Wednesday, June 5, 
 1889 ; but suffice it to say, the historical tableaux, the smart- 
 looking fire companies, the mounted Indians, and the trades 
 procession generally, were a great success of the grand mus- 
 ter of business men and their employees, many of whom 
 worked at their trades in their movable temporary work- 
 shops. 
 
 Every conceivable business was here represented, and in 
 many instances the costly teams of fine horses and equip- 
 ment must have taken much time and care in the prepara- 
 tion for this notable day. A striking feature of one of the 
 many teams of the trades procession was an artistic store 
 on wheels, fitted out for the occasion by Messrs. Heed & 
 Barton, the eminent silver-ware firm, established in Taun- 
 ton over half a century. Securely fixed on this novel and 
 graceful vehicle were displayed silver ice pitchers, tea and 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 85 
 
 coffee services, cake baskets and other numerous works of 
 art, placed on a velvet platform, interspersed with flowers, 
 the whole combined giving a very novel and unique effect ; 
 and the shaking of this curious carriage, drawn by richly ca- 
 parisoned horses, managed by a jaunty driver, ovBr the jolting 
 road, never displaced the numerous pretty and choice goods 
 of artistic skill on this movable store of glitter, in the mid- 
 day sunlight. 
 
 The numerous exhibits, from one end of the procession to 
 the other, were almost inexhaustive, from the raw, crude ma- 
 terial to the finished work of skilled labor, thus forcibly 
 showing what individual effort could do in assisting to make 
 their two centuries and a half formation a success in the 
 way of a great demonstration 
 
 It scarcely need be stated that every factory, mill, workship, 
 and store, also offices of all kinds, were closed to do homage 
 to the ancient town's Jubilee of 18«9. Hon. Henry M. Lover- 
 ing officiated as chief marshal of the day, acquitting himself 
 nobly of his many duties, in which he was ably assisted by the 
 deputy marshal and a number of efficient aids. Carriages 
 containing his Excellency Oliver Ames, Governor of Massa- 
 chusetts, accompanied by staff officers ; his Honor R. Henry 
 Hall, mayor of Taunton (president of the day), judges and 
 notable dignitaries, members of the city government and 
 other officials, gave a dignity b\ T their presence to the time- 
 honored celebration. 
 
 The trades procession, military and civil, with fire compa- 
 nies and numerous historical tableaux, took nearly two hours 
 in passing a given point, and though somewhat lengthy in 
 some of its duplicate teams of business, it did not seem to 
 tire one, but, on the contrary, all seemed pleased at the efforts 
 made to celebrate this great day. Special mention can be 
 made of the first-rate and excellent bands of music, which 
 greatly added to the full enjoyment of the scene ; and the 
 committee of arrangements were not niggardly in their en- 
 gaging such, a goodly number of bands from in and out of 
 town. And another feature, on this beautiful, balmy, June 
 day, was the singing of the boys and girls from the various 
 public schools ; the fresh, young voices of the songsters sang 
 with a zest of health and vigor, and the waving of their 
 
86* RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 miniature flags, as the procession passed their stand (oppo- 
 site the City Hall) , gave quue a picturesque effect. The large 
 triumphal arch, formed with some trouble and expense, 
 looked quite imposing from "The Green's" enclosure of 
 grassy verdure ; the myriads of flags and bunting ably added 
 to the brightness of the pleasant surroundings. The police 
 arrangements were excellent, but the good-natured multitude 
 never required police surveillance, for the masses swayed 
 good-humoredly on the crowded streets. Many women and 
 children, and men also, were foot-sore and tired on that 
 beautiful day, but all classes seemed happy and contented, 
 aud all classes seemed to be represented by old and young : 
 the rich manufacturers and their families, the robust, well- 
 dressed mechanics and mill workers and their wives and 
 children, the burly farmers and their spouses and pretty 
 daughters. 
 
 The wish of the writer is this : that good old Taunton may 
 progress in her future prosperity as successfully as the city 
 has done in the past two hundred and fifty years formation 
 ■of her being. 
 
 As a sequel to the recent anniversary celebration in this 
 city, we may add a very pleasing feature in connection with 
 the festival: that of Taunton, England, sending a very 
 elaborate, engrossed, complimentary address to the citizens 
 of American Taunton. The City Council have instructed the 
 anniversary committee to prepare and send an appropriate 
 reply, of suitable character, and emblematical of the time of 
 early formation of the town. The document will comprise 
 a printed parchment, with hand-painted border of mayflowers 
 and leaves, having at the top a water-color sketch of the 
 lauding of the ship " Mayflower," and at the bottom a view 
 on Taunton River, while in the centre is a very pretty sketch 
 of Taunton Green, looking north ; on either side is a mono- 
 gram of the respective dates of 1639 and 1889. 
 
 The writer of these pages, on taking leave of Taunton and 
 its very hospitable people, must make a grateful confession ; 
 for in all the towns, villages, and cities he has "visited, aud 
 the thousands of miles he has traversed, in no section of the 
 United States has more considerate kindness been given any 
 one than has been showered on this traveller. At all times, 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 87 
 
 * 
 
 in all seasons, whether expected or not, a kindly welcome 
 •ever awaited the visitor, and many days have been spent in 
 the generous homes of these Taunton folks with well-remem- 
 bered pleasure and gratitude. 
 
 Providence, R. I. 
 
 Providence, the capital of Rhode Island .State, and the 
 second city of the six New England States in population, 
 wealth, and commerce, is situated at the head of Narragan- 
 set Bay, and is built on elevated ground on both sides of 
 Providence River, over which there are several bridges, unit- 
 ing the two divisions of the city. The city is irregularly 
 built, but has many good houses, especially in the upper parts, 
 which, being deemed more healthy, are chiefly inhabited by 
 the "upper ten" of the Rhode Island moneyocracy. Provi- 
 dence is a place of great trading and manufacturing activity, 
 having flour, sawing, marble-polishing, cotton and woollen 
 mills, screw factories, iron foundries, shops for making 
 india-rubber boots and shoes, extensive jewelry and silver 
 manufactories, and other metallic works, etc., carried on and 
 aided by powerful steam-power ; besides which, there is a 
 large coasting and oyster-fishing trade, and great pleasure 
 traffic in summer. 
 
 The early history of Providence is full of interest. It was 
 originally settled in 1636 by a body of emigrants under 
 Roger Williams, who had the honor of establishing the first 
 political community founded on the principle of perfect 
 religious toleration. It suffered much during the Indian 
 War of 1765, when many of the inhabitants removed to 
 Rhode Island for shelter ; but in the War of Independence 
 the favor was reciprocated, as great numbers of the rural 
 population sought refuge in Providence. In 1801 the town 
 was almost laid in ashes by a conflagration ; and in 1815 a 
 savage gale occurred, raising the tide many feet above its 
 usual height, and causing a destruction of property to the 
 ■ amount of nearly two millions of dollars. The census of 
 1890 enumerates Providence at 131,558 inhabitants, an in- 
 crease in five years of 13,500 persons. 
 
88 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 Hotels and Theatres, Providence. 
 
 There are several good hotels in this city, the foremost in 
 size being the Narraganset House, erected but a few years 
 ago ; this building, for completeness, space, and loftiness, can 
 compete with most hotels in larger towns. The rotunda of 
 the hotel is very comfortably arranged with easy-chairs and 
 lounges, for the tired traveller to rest and smoke a fragrant 
 cigar in ; and hanging on its wall is a magnificent painting 
 of the death of Lord Nelson on board the ship "Victory."' 
 The Narraganset is a red brick structure, and of great 
 height, also of commanding frontage ; it stands in bold relief 
 as an imposing dwelling-place for the comforts of man or 
 woman either. We can speak well of its interior accommo- 
 dations, its elegance of apartments, and valuable picture gal- 
 lery, and the urbanity of its genial manager and officials 
 generally. There is an excellent lunclieon bar, in connec- 
 tion with the hotel proper, and where some slices of roast 
 beef, with fixings, are very enjoyable to hurried business men. 
 The City Hotel, the Dorrance, and many others of smaller 
 calibre, have all in their way merits as cosy stopping-over 
 places for residents and visitors. The Aldrich House (lately 
 burnt) was an exceptionally homelike, comfortable hostel. 
 
 The theatres are the Providence Opera House, of fair- 
 sized auditorium and spacious stage, and where we have 
 seen Edwin Booth and several English stars act during 
 the season. Various travelling troupes in the play months 
 visit Providence, and some of their starring abilities are 
 more on paper, in picture form, than in artistic reality. 
 Keith's Gaiet}- Theatre is a compact, prettily decorated place 
 of amusement, and during the theatrical season has its 
 share of patronage. The Infantry and music halls, for lec- 
 tures, concerts, and balls, and some minor variety museums, 
 complete the leading attractions of this city. 
 
 Brown University College, Providence. 
 
 The above-named college, situated on Prospect Terrace, is 
 known far and wide as a great seat of learning, and many 
 talented students ememe from these walls to become master 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 89 
 
 minds in Law, Physics, or Divinity, on this continent. The 
 College Carnival is a peculiar institution, held annually, at 
 the end of term time, when every conceivable grotesque 
 dress of masquerade character is brought into requisition ; 
 every species of the " antique and horrible " are burlesqued 
 by these merry student maskers. It was a curious, weird 
 sight to see the long line of procession troop up Westminster 
 Street to its destination, to " burn or bury their books," as it 
 is termed. Clowns, demons, knights, officers of army and 
 navy, skeletons, flower girls, countesses, sheperdesses, and 
 many other individualities are copied by these wild young 
 men, in their vagaries before vacation. Several bands of 
 music enliven this ghastly carnival of torchlight array, for to 
 bury the books, a coffin is carried on men's shoulders, with 
 the supposed offending books in it. Many of the revelling 
 masker's are mounted on horseback. 
 
 Also during the season, a grand lawn party, on the Brown 
 University grounds, is held. We, having an invitation, 
 were much pleased with the animated scene of promenaders ; 
 the elegant toilets of the well-dressed ladies looked very cool 
 and becoming that warm summer evening, and the young 
 students, in their dress suits, and gentlemanly collegian 
 manner, behaved towards their guests in such a very polite 
 manner, that one would not have known them as the same 
 young men of the torchlight carnival parade. The strains of 
 the excellent music, conducted by Reeves, of the American 
 Band, lent additional charm to this picturesque gathering on 
 the lawn. 
 
 Churches in Providence. 
 
 Providence has many church denominations, the principal 
 of which is ' k All Saints Memorial," of High Church ritual 
 service. The singing by the choristers is of -very excellent 
 character. The sacred structure is of lofty architectural 
 proportions, and reminds one of the abbeys in Europe. 
 Adjacent to this Episcopal church, in the same thoroughfare 
 (High Street), is the magnificent pile of buildings which has 
 taken some years to construct, — the large Catholic cathe- 
 dral, now completed. The exterior architecture is of the 
 
90 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 usual fine character that pervades most cathedrals, whether 
 Protestant or Catholic, and the interior is quite in keeping 
 in its decorative beauty with the outside. Valuable paintings 
 adorn the cathedral walls, and the stained-glass windows of 
 sacred subjects are superb in their manipulation. It is said 
 millions of dollars have been expended on the erection and 
 decoration of this edifice. Grace Church is a fine old struc- 
 ture of much sanctity in appearance, while the Union Con- 
 gregational Church, on Broad Street, with its fine quartet of 
 singers, has had many eminent divines in past years, but to 
 individualize the several talented clergymen of this city is 
 not the intention of the writer. We might mention Saint 
 Stephen's Episcopal High Church, in George Street. During 
 the Lenten season of 1889 monthly oratorios were per- 
 formed by a choir of voices of remarkable .talent, the leading 
 singer being a boy, with a pure, sweet voice, of great power. 
 Providence is oftentimes blessed with a flying visit from 
 popular evangelists. Rev. Fay Mills stayed here some 
 weeks, about a year ago. and converted many souls by his 
 pathos of story-telling of benighted people brought to God. 
 In February, 1890, Rev. Sam Small preached twice in the 
 Music Hall. The magnetism of voice and manner was very 
 telling when the lecturer spoke of his early life and vicissi- 
 tudes of a drunkard's downward career. The vivid pictures 
 of heart-broken wives and parents were told with much 
 emotion to a large audience of attentive men, as a warning 
 example to shun alcoholic liquors, and turn to the great and 
 good Muster. Rev. Mr. Harrison (the boy preacher) has 
 done much good here by his exhortations. 
 
 The Gorham Manufacturing Company, Providence. 
 
 No doubt the visitor to Providence has oftentimes, on 
 leaving the depot, seen the name on a large block of build- 
 ings, situated on Steeple Street and Market Square, " Gor- 
 ham Silver Plate Company." 
 
 To enter the inside of this famed factory, or emporium of 
 fine art. silver and gold work, is a rich treat to the unini- 
 tiated. The firm's sterling-silver goods are known all over the 
 American continent ; in fact, all over the known world. For 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 91 
 
 more than half a century, the reputation of these manufac- 
 turers in fine art-work of precious metals has always kept 
 well to the fore, in their laudable endeavors to make first- 
 -lass articles of the best and choicest designs, and no ex- 
 pense or trouble are spared in the excellence of all details of 
 the utmost minutia?. From the chief designers, down to the 
 youngest apprentice boy, a strict attention to discipline is 
 ever manifested by the extensive experience of the general 
 managers and assistants, who for many years have so ably 
 carried the business on to success. The writer of these 
 pages, being well acquainted with the inside workings of this 
 celebrated art workshop, can safely guarantee it being the 
 leading manufacturing silversmiths in America. When trade 
 is good, the firm employs about one thousand hands ; and 
 most of these are skilled workers of the precious metals, 
 and invariably command good wages, which the company has 
 always had the reputation of paying to its men, who ai'e 
 worthy of it. 
 
 A magnificent store and show-rooms, in New York, con- 
 tain many fine specimens of repousse chasing, ornamental 
 engraving, superb die-cutting, damascene, and other styles 
 of skilled artistic work, from the candelabra of many 
 branches to the choice tea and coffee, also dinner, services, of 
 every conceivable pattern and variety of design, chased, en- 
 graved, plain, hammered and etched. From the crude and 
 rough ingots of silver from the mines, thence melted into 
 form of skellets, to be rolled into sheets of certain thick- 
 ness, — of such beginnings are these elegant goods manu- 
 factured in the numerous departments of the Gorham Com- 
 pany. 
 
 Mention may be made of the magnificent display of choice 
 articles exhibited at the Centennial Exposition, Fairmount 
 Park, Philadelphia, in 1876, for which gold medals were 
 awarded the firm ; and foremost among the splendid speci- 
 mens of the artists' cunning was the renowned " Century 
 Vase," designed and modelled with consummate skill, chased 
 and executed with great finish and taste. This masterpiece 
 of work in sterling silver represented arts, commerce, civili- 
 zation, and progress. Each of these were shown in panels 
 of figure work, highly wrought in the modelling and chasing. 
 
02 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 The plaques of tropical fruits and flowers were very fine in 
 the manipulation ; in fact, the whole conception was of rare 
 artistic merit, a credit to the firm who had courage enough 
 to invest some thousands of dollars on one article, and a 
 lasting ci edit to the artists who created such an elaborate 
 design, so emblematical in its treatment of the rise and prog- 
 ress of the American Continent. This Century Vase was 
 exhibited at the Paris Exposition in the season of 1<s,s:i. and, 
 with other choice works of art of the firm's manufacture, 
 commanded much attention and admiration from the myriads 
 of sight-seers in the French capital. A gold medal was 
 awarded the Gorham Company by the committee of judges 
 of the Paris exhibition. 
 
 Apropos of the increasing business of the Messrs. Gor- 
 ham, the firm began operations, in August, 1888, to erect a 
 colossal factory at Klmwood, just outside Providence, on the 
 road to Roger Williams Park. Report says that this range 
 of buildings, with elegant show-rooms and offices attached, 
 will take two years to construct, and fix the factories 
 with machinery and other plant ; and that the expense 
 involved will count up into many hundreds of thousands of 
 dollars. The old factory on Steeple Street had done its 
 work bravely and well ; it was formerly a hotel, with low- 
 studded rooms on some of the floors. The more modern 
 building improvements at Elmwood, of greatly increased 
 light and loftiness, will add very much to the comfort and 
 health of the army of men employed. The author of these 
 rambles and reminiscences wishes the Gorham Company every 
 success in their n< w building enterprise, as their prosperity 
 is the well-being and happiness of many firesides of em- 
 ployees, their wives and children. Since writing the above, 
 the new factory in Elmwood was completed, duly, 1890, and 
 the works assume now one vast beehive of art industry, and 
 no doubt will be visited with great interest. 
 
 Providence, R. I., Fire, at corner of Washington Street. 
 
 On Wednesday, Feb. 15, 1888, at about midnight, the fire- 
 alarm bells rang out their dread summons of peril. The writer 
 of these pages, living in the city of Providence, was awak- 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 93 
 
 <ened from his sleep by the fire-bells ringing ominously, and 
 the lurid glare of a great conflagration close by. Hurriedly 
 dressing and hastily arriving at the scene, we found Chace's, 
 and Billing's blocks, also the Aldrich House, one mass of 
 flame. For hours the doomed district burned with unre- 
 mitting fury, tht; high wind and freezing atmosphere almost 
 paralyzing the efforts of the brave firemen in their arduous 
 duty of that terrible night. Assistance came from Paw- 
 tucket, Olneyville, and adjacent towns, rendering much aid. 
 The well-appointed fire department of Providence did all 
 that heroic men could do in trying to stop the spreading of 
 the conflagration, for it looked, at one time, as if part of 
 Westminster Street would fall a prey to the devouring ele- 
 ment ; but Chief Engineer Steere, with his usual promptness 
 and energy, was around everywhere, directing his able assist- 
 ants, so that danger was over by Thursday morn ; and as 
 the tired-out firemen wended their way homeward, a sorry 
 spectacle they looked, in their rubber coats, being one mass 
 of coated ice, the water having frozen on these dauntless 
 men as they worked the hose on the burning pile. The fan- 
 tastic appearance of the frozen spray adhering to the ruins of 
 that ouce famed hostel, the Aldrich House, brought many 
 visitors from far and near. Loss estimated at nearly half a 
 million, and might have reached much more, except by the 
 gallant labors of the firemen in limiting the disaster. 
 
 The burnt district has been rebuilt in 1890 in a very sub- 
 stantial manner. 
 
 Firemen's Relief Association, Providence. 
 
 The second annual concert and ball, held in Infantry Hall, 
 on Thursday evening, Jan. 23, 1890, was apparently a 
 financial success, as well as socially, by the great dem- 
 onstration at this brilliant gathering of some two thou- 
 sand five hundred persons in the hall and galleries, all of 
 whom were willing to recognize the brave firemen's protec- 
 tion to their city in the hour of need, and by the visitors' 
 presence to aid their organization of the Firemen's Relief 
 Association. The hall was profusely decorated with flags, 
 bunting, and mottoes, and the chief event of the evening's 
 
94 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 festivities consisted of a concert by the famed Reeves's Amer- 
 ican Band, a prominent feature of the programme being a 
 realistic scene of a winter's night alarm, with scenic effect 
 and apparatus, showing the process as it actually exists in 
 the fire stations, from the men sliding down the pole from 
 their bedrooms to the start with engines and excited, well- 
 trained, valuable horses. The drop-scenes on the stage, 
 painted for this occasion, represented the Aldrich House 
 on fire, near midnight. Feb. 15, 1888, and the last scene 
 of the doomed building, with its festoons of icicles, created 
 much applause from the immense audience, in conjunction 
 with Reeves's Band playing the composition of " The Night 
 Alarm." The centre row of the east balcony, which had 
 been reserved for invited guests, was occupied by Gov. 
 W. H. Ladd and his military staff; Mayor Henry R. Bar- 
 ker and aldermen and councilmen also being present. 
 
 The costumes of many ladies in the grand march were of 
 fine character, intermixed with others of more sedate type, 
 while the full evening dress of the gentlemen dancers 
 blended well with the charming toilets of the lady waltzers. 
 
 The writer (accompanied with friends) was much pleased 
 with his visit, and danced several times with fairy-like forms 
 till the small hours of morning. The supper in the drill 
 hall was a centre of attraction from ten to one o'clock. 
 
 Citizens of Providence wish Chief Steere and his noble 
 firemen every success in the future. 
 
 Alfredians at Rocky Point, Aug. 7, 1889. 
 
 The sixteenth annual excursion of the Order of "Alfred- 
 ians" in Rhode Island took place Aug. 7, 1889, at Rocky 
 Point, where it had been held for some years previous. The 
 National Band, forty pieces, headed a very unique parade 
 through the principal streets of Providence. The procession 
 consisted of Alfredians in uniform of the Order, and about one 
 hundred boys and girls in most bewitching costumes. Some 
 of the little tots of girls seemed too young to parade far, 
 but they bore the fatigue bravely, and were watched over by 
 kind, burly policemen ; the day, at starting, was very bright 
 and beautiful, and the young folks' youthful flow of spirits 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 95 
 
 was up to zenith point, in exuberance of the anticipation of 
 the day's frolic. The steamer " City of Newport " carried a 
 very joyous crowd, as the procession trooped on board ; 
 the band giving a popular concert during the sail down the 
 river, and the numerous craft saluting the merry party made 
 things lively on the trip. After a good shore dinner, the 
 old English games began, in the enclosure devoted to races 
 and dances, and it was computed about five thousand per- 
 sons passed through the gates. In the afternoon sports, 
 there were high jumps, low jumps, running races, jumping 
 in sacks, etc. ; but the chief attraction of all was the little 
 damsels, dressed as milkmaids, with their miniature three- 
 legged stools and milk-pails, attended by their zouave boy es- 
 corts. The costumes of these young people were very bright 
 and pretty, the girls being dressed alike, in white dresses, 
 with jaunty little blue-and-red aprons, and colored turban 
 hats ; the dairymaids' song and dance, the butterfly dance, 
 and the ever-popular maypole dance, gave a very good pro- 
 gramme of nimble feet, to the inspiring strains of the music, 
 not forgetting a sailor's hornpipe of two couples, danced 
 with much nautical action Prof, and Mrs. Greene are to 
 be complimented on the drilling of their young pupils ; and 
 also to the committees for a pleasant outing to about ten 
 thousand" people. 
 
 Medical Aid Society, of Providence, 1889. 
 
 For some twelve months past, a movement has been on 
 foot to organize a self helping Medical Aid Society among 
 the wage-workers of factories, mills, and other places of 
 business in Rhode Island. Its object, as its humane origi- 
 nator, Mr. Andrew McCue, explained, at a large meeting, 
 held at Keith's Opera House a short while since, is to secure 
 competent medical aid, by co-operation, to working-men, 
 their wives and children. No family desires to evade the 
 payment of an honorable account within their means, but 
 the burden of doctors' bills, after a long sickness, is fre- 
 quently very heavy. Medical men should not be expected 
 to take care of patients who are unable to pay for attend- 
 ance. The scheme of the proposed Medical Aid Society 
 
96 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 includes the issue of free tickets to the Rhode Island and 
 Homoeopathic hospitals. Rev. Mr. Sheer — who has given 
 much valuable time in furtherance of this proposed society, 
 by his kindly advice and presence at the various meetings — - 
 stated the plans of the organization at some length, and 
 explained that the Aid Society was to be of strictly business 
 principles, managed through factory committees elected by 
 the members, each man paying twenty-live cents per month ; 
 and the sick will be cared for in the hospital and by private 
 physicians, most of whom in Providence have willingly vol- 
 unteered to assist in this good work. Other speakers fol- 
 lowed in explaining the object of this humane idea, particu- 
 larly the chairman of the evening, his Honor Mayor Barker, 
 Rev. Mr. Woodbury, etc. 
 
 This scheme of aiding the working-men and their fami- 
 lies — similar to the facilities given to the wage-workers in 
 Birmingham, England — will, no doubt, in time, when thor- 
 oughly organized, work well ; and as self-help is mostly the 
 best of help, a good chance is here presented for artisans to 
 assist themselves to medical care for a very small payment, 
 which they would never miss ; and it devolves on all right- 
 minded men, who have any pride in themselves and affec- 
 tion for their wives and families, to put their shoulders to 
 the wheel, and help the good work along ; for when this 
 humane scheme has once been launched, there is no telling 
 of the magnitude and the good results that will soon follow 
 such a movement in the aid of suffering humanity. 
 
 Narraganset State Fair. 
 
 Narraganset Trotting Park is situated a car ride of some 
 six miles from the city proper of Providence, and the 
 annual fair held here is usually a time of great attraction to 
 Rhode Islanders and many others. The exhibition of stock in 
 the season of 1884 was very fine ; the cattle were large in num- 
 ber, and in good condition, — some splendid specimens of 
 milch cows, enormous draught oxen, and bulls with ancestral 
 pedigree. The track for trotting horses was a well-graded 
 one, and from the commodious grand stand a long-range 
 view could be had of the trotters. The horses appeared of 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. $7 
 
 the average kind which are seen in most cattle-fairs. A 
 number of the choice cattle got prizes, and looked weary 
 enough on the last day of the exhibition A full band of 
 music enlivened the proceedings of the day, and but few in- 
 toxicated people were seen anywhere about, as is the usual 
 case at these gatherings. The season of September, 1888, was 
 the advent ofr a marriage ceremony (from this park) in the 
 car of a balloon, which ascended as soon as the nuptials were 
 completed. Some forty thousand sight-seers gazed at the 
 young couple as they ascended to the sky in Prof. Allen's 
 big balloon. Marriage of itself has enough risks, one 
 would imagine, without tempting more by a public exhibi- 
 tion and hazardous ride in an aerial machine. Publicity of 
 the sacred tie of matrimony should, we think, be confined to 
 the home or the church, and not to the gaze of an excited 
 crowd of morbid curiosity mongers. The young married 
 couple descended into a swamp near North Easton, Mass., 
 and were dragged about two miles before a safe lauding 
 was effected. 
 
 Buttonwoods Beach, and its Neighborhood. 
 
 A pleasant railway ride from Providence of some three 
 quarters of an hour takes the visitor to Buttonwoods. It 
 is charmingly situated on the banks of the Narraganset, a 
 sort of tributary or inlet thereof, and its waters are safe 
 sailing for amateur yachtsmen and others venturesome in 
 small craft. Some kind friends of the writer have often- 
 times invited him to the hospitalities of their pretty gabled 
 cottage, and to varied sails around and about the river 
 and bay in their sail-boat, and many hours of pleasure we 
 have had, cruising on the glassy waters of the inlet. Ex- 
 cellent bathing can be had from the beach, its smooth, sandy 
 shores sloping down the shallow depths making a healthy 
 retreat for ladies and children, unattended with danger. 
 
 To the jaded business man of Providence or elsewhere, 
 Buttonwoods offers many attractions. The convenient access 
 by rail, night and morning, to and from its pleasant sur- 
 roundings, and the calm and quiet of the locality, add to 
 its charm, and cause a longing for the summer season to 
 
98 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 come around. The resort has a commodious hotel, and 
 quite a number of handsome cottages. A good concreted 
 walk forms an esplanade to the beach's front, and is a fine, 
 breezy promenade or drive around the avenues. 
 
 River Dell, on the Providence River, is a sheltered inlet 
 opposite to Green's Island, and almost facing the shores of 
 Barrington and Nayet. It is a pretty little hamlet, composed 
 chiefly of farms and apple orchards, and overlooking the 
 channel waters is a cosy country boarding-house, called tw Cliff 
 Cottage," presided over by a worthy Scotch lady, and where, 
 in the season, clams and other kinds of fish are always on 
 hand, cooked to perfection. Bathing, boating, and fishing are 
 much in vogue here during the summer months. 
 
 Roger Williams Park, Providence. 
 
 Roger Williams Park is a pleasant cultivated enclosure of 
 man}- acres of mostly cultivated land, and in the summer 
 season a great resort for the inhabitants of surrounding 
 districts, and visitors generally, it being a favorite and pop- 
 ular horse-car ride over several routes from the city ; and 
 there is also a railway depot in the park. The chief aud 
 most patronized ride is through picturesque Elmwood, with 
 its many pretty, gabled villas, and cottages of well-to-do 
 people ; and from various avenues of South Providence, 
 great numbers of Sunday and holiday folks stream into the 
 park. A miniature menagerie, which delights the children, 
 is on the grounds, and the pleasant lake furnishes recreation 
 and amusement in the row-boats to 3'oung and old. A new 
 lake, converted out of swamp ground, has just been completed 
 this season, 188!), and with the new granite stone bridge 
 and freshly graded, grassy lawns, will add much to the orna- 
 mentation of the park, and give increased facilities for boat- 
 ing exercise. We believe a deer park of large dimensions 
 is to be made from the waste lands shortly, and it is much 
 needed by the animals in their cooped-up enclosure. In the 
 winter time, skating (when there is ice) and tobogganing on 
 the smooth rivulet are much enjoyed by the young ladies and 
 boys of the various schools, most of the skaters being adepts 
 in the healthy exercise, giving quite a roseate hue to the 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 99' 
 
 peachy cheeks of the fair young damsels. During a part of 
 the summer season, a band of music plays afternoons and 
 evenings on alternative days, and generally draws a big 
 crowd of people. 
 
 Pawtuxet River, a short distance from Roger Williams 
 Park, is much in request during fine weather for rowing and 
 bathing. Its picturesque shores are thronged with visitors 
 during the warm weather, for the invigorating bath and 
 health-giving exercise to the muscles of the body, and 
 Rhode's noted clam-bakes are much in vogue here during 
 the season by holiday makers. 
 
 The Cotton Centennial, Pawtucket, 1890. 
 
 If it had been possible for the venerable Samuel Slater 
 to have risen from his grave and beheld the six clays' jubilee 
 held in his honor at Pawtucket, the good man might have 
 blushed with amazement. For nearly a week the celebra- 
 tion of pageants of no ordinary kind were kept up, and 
 the various committees must have had enough to do, when 
 we remember the labor of organizing entertainments, such 
 as large Sunday-school gatherings, military and civic pa- 
 rades, trades processions, secret society parades, veteran 
 firemen's contests with manual engines, the hall exhibit, 
 boat-races on the Seekonk River ; and to crown all, King Cot- 
 ton's carnival parade of grotesques and carnival ball were to 
 wind up the festivities of the programme. The Englishman, 
 Samuel Slater, the Father of American manufacturers, be- 
 gan his work one hundred years ago. Patient and unweary- 
 ing, his efforts grew as the first cotton-spinning machine 
 came to birth from the brain of this extraordinary man, and 
 gave Rhode Island the palm of his untiring zeal in the cul- 
 mination of his efforts of machine inventing. Pawtucket's 
 old town may well be proud of Samuel Slater ; in fact, all 
 America has benefitted by the inventor of the shuttle and 
 spindle, giving employment to so many thousands of people 
 over this vast continent. And while the multitudes congre- 
 gated at Pawtucket to revere the memory of the ivoiker, and 
 participate in the festivities of the week, few, perhaps, would 
 remember the inventor's early struggles and disappointments 
 
100 RAMBLES IN AMBKICA. 
 
 ill later life, as it so often happens to those whom others 
 benefit by. The cotton industry of to-day, carried on by 
 energetic, wealthy men, has made rapid strides since Slater's 
 time. And we say, in closing, that not only the first cotton- 
 spinning machine industry was founded by him in this coun- 
 try, but he established in Pawtucket one of the earliest, if 
 not the first, Sunday school in America. Mr. Samuel 
 Slater's thoughtful care of those employed by him, and the 
 welfare of the masses generally, has contributed very largely 
 to the fame of the man who has just been appreciated and 
 honored by the recent centennial celebration. 
 
 The Cove, Providence 
 
 For some time a movement has been on foot to utilize the 
 Cove, adjoining the Providence railway terminus. For years 
 the disagreeable smell of this unpleasant, muddy water has 
 been a source of trouble and annoyance to the city by its 
 impurities in hot weather. A remedy is now proposed by 
 the railroad company purchasing the site, aiid with scows 
 empty the refuse, and then fill in the large area for an 
 immense central depot. As many men are now at the work, 
 it looks as if the project would be carried out some time in 
 the future. 
 
 Near by the railway station in Exchange Place is a fine 
 granite monument, with a well-chiselled figure of a Union 
 soldier on its summit ; at the base are numerous cannon- 
 balls, and around the paved square are four very excellent 
 clusters of gas lamps, modelled and executed in accordance 
 with the military trophy in the centre. Almost facing the 
 memorial obelisk is the magnificent City Hall, not long since 
 finished; it is of excellent design, and built of granite; the 
 interior is very spacious, and well adapted for the city 
 government's seat of offices, in the administration of its laws. 
 
 At the cornei- of College Hill and Benefit Street is a noble- 
 looking, brown-stone building, of fine proportions, — the 
 Court House, erected within recent years. 
 
 Within a few years an equestrian statue of Gen. Burnside 
 has been placed on the east side of Exchange Place, near the 
 headquarters of the fire-department building. 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 101 
 
 Champion Boat Race, on Seekonk River, Frovidence. 
 
 Many of my Providence readers may remember the time 
 when Edward Hanlan was in his prime of strength and 
 muscle, and as champion of the world as a sculler, took 
 precedence over all comers. A race took place on the See- 
 konk River, June 17, 1880, for the championship of America 
 and five thousand dollars. Many thousands of spectators 
 were on every vantage ground, to view the aquatic contest. 
 When the word " go " was given, with pistol shot, off the 
 competitors started, and with wonderful precision did Han- 
 lan's stroke tell over the other oarsmen, and he soon drew 
 way ahead, though closely followed by Wallace Ross (his 
 cousin) and some others of the scullers. As far as the eye 
 could reach, Hanlan appeared to have it his own way, and 
 the rounding of the stake buoy was effected without accident 
 or fouling, when the home stretch was began in good earnest, 
 and it was then that we observed Hanlan relax his energies, 
 bend over as if in pain, and stop rowing altogether. Colic 
 in the stomach, it was said, had seized the supposed winner, 
 and thus spoilt one of the finest races on record. Wallace 
 Ross came in first, and was declared champion and winner 
 of the stake money, but great dissatisfaction was heard 
 everywhere. 
 
 Between that time and the present season of 1889 several 
 changes of champion have taken place. Edward Hanlan for 
 many 3'ears did good work, but younger oarsmen have 
 come to the fore ; such names as Gaudaur, Teenier, Beach, 
 O'Connor, Mattison, and Kemp now take the lead in all 
 prominent rowing matches of the globe. Kemp is the pres- 
 ent champion sculler. 
 
 The Doyle 'Monument, at Providence. 
 
 The unveiling of the statue of the late Mayor Doyle, on 
 June 3, 1889, was a tribute of well-remembered reverence 
 and affection towards a good man of this Providence city. 
 For a number of years, Thomas Arthur Doyle was rechosen 
 as its chief magistrate, in consequence of his clear record 
 as a capable business man and official gentleman. The 
 
102 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 statue of bronze, resting on a marble plinth, occupying a posi- 
 tion in the higher part of the city, opposite the cathedral, 
 was unveiled with all due solemnity by a procession of dig- 
 nitaries, religious and civic — also military and masonic 
 organizations. Hut the most pleasing of all the ceremonies 
 were those hundreds of school children located on a tempo- 
 rary platform, who lifted their young voices in tuneful accord 
 in sweet remembrance of the late Mayor, who ever loved to 
 hear the young singers in times gone by. 
 
 The modelling of the Doyle statue was entrusted to Mr. 
 Henry Hudson Kitson, a young artist of rising reputation, — 
 of English birth, — and his home, when in America, being 
 Boston ; but in his studio at Paris the artistic work was 
 begun in cla}- modelling, and in the same city the casting of 
 the figure in bronze was completed. As a work of merit, 
 various opinions are entertained ; but as we are not all edu- 
 cated as art judges, it would be difficult for the majority to 
 tell a well-modelled figure from an indifferent one. 
 
 Nearly opposite the Doyle monument is a fine building, 
 just erected, that of the "■Young Men's Christian Asso- 
 ciation," a noble institute for the promotion of the wel- 
 fare of young men. The kind deeds done by these institu- 
 tions all over the world is a well-known theme, and brought 
 forth good fruit by the humane instigator and originator in 
 far-away London town, England. God grant these efforts to 
 do good to young men may flourish in our midst, and that 
 the magnificent and commodious new Young Men's Christian 
 Association building may become the home of a religious and 
 pure life to the voungmen of Providence. It is said to have 
 cost SI 70,000. " 
 
 State Prison of Rhode Island. 
 
 About six miles from Providence city, in the Cranston 
 district, is situated, on a high, breezy elevation, the State 
 Prison of Rhode Island. The jail is chiefly built of brown- 
 stone masonry, the windows heavily barred with iron, and 
 the whole is surrounded by spacious court-yards; the out- 
 lying farming land, comprising about twenty-five acres, is 
 tilled principally by short-term prisoners, some forty men, 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 103 
 
 in gang, watched over by an armed officer. The interior of 
 the prison is commenced by a spacious reception room, where 
 friends of the offenders are allowed to see and converse 
 with, through a division of wire-work grating, the unfortu- 
 nates in durance vile, on stated days. In company with a 
 courteous official, the writer was shown every nook and cor- 
 ner of the stronghold, — commencing with the view of the 
 two dark cells, where the refractory are placed for punish- 
 ment ; and to judge from a moment's incarceration therein, 
 when the strong blank iron door is closed, it must be a terrible 
 ordeal for any length of time, and a fearful retribution to 
 remain in those dungeon cells of inky darkness. Passing on- 
 ward with my guide, the chair-caning shops were inspected ; 
 also the large boot and shoe factory and wire- screen shops 
 were visited in turn. The busy prisoners have to work in 
 silence (no talking allowed), the only sound being the hum 
 and whirr of machines for shoemaking. Each room has 
 instructors to teach the novices the various trades, and on a 
 small raised platform sits an officer the day long, who con- 
 stantly watches the men at work ; the monotony of the life 
 to the overseer official must be very tiresome in ceaselessly 
 overlooking the apathetic unfortunate culprits, and one would 
 think the prisoners have the best time of it while at work, 
 their minds being occupied by labor. 
 
 Several life -sentence men were amongst the number of 
 shorter term criminals ; one life convict having been in the 
 jail as far back as 1867. Of the present inmates of con- 
 victed murderers, in the year 1889, was one '-Spike Mur- 
 phy," for the cowardly murder of an old citizen, Waterman 
 Irons, of Providence. Murphy was doing his allotted task of 
 shoemaking. A tall, healthy-looking young man, with an 
 intelligent countenance, and far from a desperate look about 
 him, though very sinewy in form. 
 
 In the hospital ward, of southern aspect, the bright sun 
 was streaming in, as if to cheer the convalescent patients 
 with its rays, and numerous plants and shrubs in the corri- 
 dor lent their aid to alleviate, if possible, the gloomy sur- 
 roundings. Pacing the floor was one of the sick men, with 
 bandages swathed around his neck, whose throat some 
 months ago had been severely cut by a fellow-prisoner, in 
 
K>4 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 a desperate quarrel ; the assailant hanging himself a few days 
 afterwards in his cell. 
 
 Three tiers of cells, oblong in dimension, of twenty-six 
 cells each side, give accommodation for three hundred and 
 forty men, that being the number during my visit in Feb- 
 ruary, 1890. 
 
 In consequence of the increase of crime in Rhode Island, 
 a proposed new wiug is to be added in one of the court-yards,, 
 as the prison is overcrowded at present, which fact does not 
 speak very well for our boasted civilization of the nineteenth 
 century, though the kind-hearted resident chaplain tries his- 
 best efforts of good counsel to the misguided criminals. 
 As far as possible, comfort and cleanliness are everywhere 
 visible ; fortnightly every prisoner has a warm bath, in one of 
 the twelve bath-tubs, taking the entire day for the three 
 hundred men to get through the ablution. 
 
 The system of drying the prisoners' underwear, socks, 
 etc., by steam, when the weather is too inclement outside, is 
 quite a novel affair, as well as their patent washing and wring- 
 ing machines. The food, which we inspected and tasted,, 
 appeared good and well cooked. On the parapet of the high 
 wall surrounding the jail-yard are stationed two armed offi- 
 cers, who constantly patrol and overlook all the prison 
 yards, and any prisoner attempting to escape runs the 
 chance of being shot Cows, pigs, and horses, well housed 
 in their barns, are ready for their needful services on the 
 farm when required. 
 
 Not far distant from Cranston Jail is the State Farm, 
 chietly for inmates for small offences and habitual drunk- 
 ards of both sexes ; and the Reform School, well known 
 for refractory boys and girls, during their minority^ We 
 were informed some seven hundred acres of available 
 arable land for farming purposes is connected with these 
 institutions. 
 
 Gen. Viall is the chief warden of the State Prison, who, 
 together with a deputy warden, clerk, and chaplain, and 
 seventeen officers, complete the official staff of this abode of 
 durance vile. 
 
 Methought, on looking down from the upper prison win- 
 dows into the peaceful ravine below, along the Pawtuxet 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 105 
 
 Valley, and viewing the windings of the Providence River on 
 that sunny, breezy day, what a strange anomaly is man, with 
 his fierce, ungovernable passions, immured as some are for 
 their natural life ; and the contrast of beautiful, animated 
 Nature of the outside world going on. within sight of the 
 grim stone jail, makes one ruminate on men and women's 
 wrong-doing, enough to blast their lives here and hereafter. 
 
 The Cable-Car Road, Providence. 
 
 For many mouths of the year 1889, gangs of workmen 
 have been busy, excavating, digging, and delving, to con- 
 struct a cable-car road from AJarket Square to the Red 
 Bridge district; and early this year, 1*90, after many delays 
 of complicated work, the company's cars carry passengers 
 from Olneyville by the horse-car conveyance to Market 
 Square ; the horses are then unhitched and the car and pas- 
 sengers attached to the grip car, and at the sound of the 
 gong, dart up College Hill at a pace that would have sur- 
 prised our forefathers, passing along College, Angel, and 
 Prospect streets at a fairly rapid rate of locomotion. The 
 system seems to work well ; the powerful brakes on down 
 grade, having to be managed by a man in each car, stop 
 without much oscillation. On reaching the termini, near 
 the Red Bridge, the commodious red brick building and 
 works are inspected ; the immense fly-wheel, which is the 
 main power to propel the cars, has ten cables on its drum, 
 and the steam engine that works the machinery must be very 
 powerful. The return journey is made with a little devia- 
 tion, through Waterman Street to Market Square. The cost of 
 the mile and a half of road is said to be two hundred and fifty 
 thousand dollars. This popular, cheap ride, through some of 
 the best localities to the Seekonk River, is much patronized, 
 and thoroughly enjoyed by the thousands of passengers dur- 
 ing the fine weather as a breezy, pleasant outing from the 
 citv. 
 
106 
 
 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 Railway String Teams of Horses, Providence. 
 
 Visitors and townspeople of Providence, in their various 
 journeyings to and from the railway depot, Exchange Place, 
 may have often observed that some of the freight cars drawn 
 by horses are transferred from the main lines to spur lines 
 of rails across Market Square to Canal and Dyer streets, 
 also to Fox Point, Riverside, en route to different fruit, fish, 
 and meat warehouses. A string team, generally composed 
 of seven to eight horses, is attached to the freight cars, and 
 the driver's voice is invariably the guiding rein. A sagacious 
 
 Wi "^ftS 
 
 
 
 and docile leader takes his quadruped companions safely 
 along the route, and it is surprising with what sagacity these 
 really fine horses go about their work in such a business-like 
 manner. For fifteen years has the writer noticed these and 
 similar string teams in the service of the railway company, 
 and the Messrs. Weaver & Sons, contractors and owners 
 of these valuable animals, are to be complimented on their 
 strong-looking horses, and their general good condition. The 
 illustration is drawn with great fidelity, in the sketch of the 
 string team and cars, which the wayfarer can see any day 
 on the above-mentioned routes, the knowing old leader shak- 
 ing his fine, saucy head with pride (as it were), on being 
 
EAMBLES IN AMERICA. 107 
 
 selected as the foremost horse and sort of " boss " over the 
 other seven animals. 
 
 The Cemeteries of New England. 
 
 The burial-grounds of New England are rich in historic 
 interest. " One of the attractive places for antiquarians to 
 visit," says David A. Waldron,- in the Narraganset Historical 
 Register, " is the old cemetery in the village of Little 
 Compton, R. I. Among the dusts of once noted personages 
 is here found that of the first white woman born in New 
 England, Elizabeth Pabodie (daughter of John Alden and 
 Priscilla Mullins), who died May 31, 1717, at the age of 
 ninety-six. The Commons, as this plot is called, is not 
 kept in the best of condition, but over the grave, in the year 
 1882, was erected a granite monument, on one of the plaques 
 of which is a suitable inscription concerning the one whose 
 remains it covers. The following stanza is on the opposite 
 side of the obelisk : — 
 
 " 'A bud from Plymouth's Mayflower springs, 
 Transplanted here to live and bloom ; 
 Her memory, ever sweet and young, 
 The centuries guard within this tomb.' 
 
 " Her husband, William Pabodie, who died Dec. 13, 1707, 
 at the age of eighty-eight years, rests beside her." 
 
 The Falstaff Club. 
 
 This organization was started by a few friends, early in 
 the year 1890, at Providence Cit}', for the purpose of uniting 
 amusement with recreation and instruction. About fifty 
 persons (limited number), mostly young men, formed them- 
 selves into a club, to meet fortnightly on Saturday evenings, 
 in a well-appointed hall, where recitations, singing, instru- 
 mental music, conversation on varied topics of the day. and 
 a supper of light viands and refreshments are the order of 
 the evening. The Falstaff Club is ably presided over by a 
 competent president, assisted by two vice-presidents, a sec- 
 retary, and various committees, elected from time to time, and 
 carry on the business with a code of rules or by-laws. This 
 
108 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 company of gentlemen reminds one somewhat of descrip- 
 tions by famous writers of Old London in times past ; when 
 rare Ben Jonson, Oliver Goldsmith, Boswell, Sir Joshua 
 Lawrence, Sir Peter Lely, and many other celebrities, liter- 
 ary and artistic, used to meet in some cosey hostel, to ex- 
 change wit and repartee, and talk over the events of their 
 day, politics alone being excluded. The more modern club 
 of Falstaffanians are mainly composed of the artists of 
 Messrs. Gorham's celebrated sterling silver-ware establish- 
 ment. As an agreeable evening spent amongst gentlemen 
 of culture, art, refinement, and literary tendencies, allow a 
 member (the writer of these pages) to chronicle the gather- 
 ings, thus assembled every two weeks, as an event eagerly 
 looked forward to with much interest and pleasure. In the 
 summer months of the club, picnics and pleasant outings 
 take place on the Providence River and picturesque Paw- 
 tuxet waters, and an occasional moonlight sail on the bay. 
 in which lady friends will join with their charming presence 
 the boating, dancing, and general good time we have there. 
 May every success attend this new association of the Fal- 
 staff Club. 
 
 Hunt's Mills, East Providence Centre. 
 
 In this locality, situated in the midst of a ravine, with a 
 grove on either side, runs the streamlet from Hebronville 
 and neighboring tributaries, and after passing the dam at 
 Hunt's .Mills, the gurgling, leaping waters play in eddies 
 over and around the innumerable boulders that almost fill 
 the river's bed like a breakwater. To a lover of Nature, 
 nothing can be more picturesque and sublime in its grandeur 
 than looking from the edge of the stream between the over- 
 hanging trees, some touching each other in Uieir umbrageous 
 embrace, with the sun's rays peeping in and out of the foliage 
 far away to the miniature cataract, and watching the leaps 
 and dashes of the glistening rapids as they hurry away to 
 the placid ten-mile stream that empties itself of its puny 
 wrath into the Seekonk River, near the Red Bridge. At 
 Hebronville. a spring (it is said) begins and gathers in 
 strength and velocity from the adjacent tributaries, aided by 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 109 
 
 occasional copious rains, and at length swells into quite a 
 water-fall of some importance when it reaches Hunt's Mills 
 (apparently now an old, disused grain building). It is no 
 surprise that artists and photographers often frequent this 
 secluded spot to transfer on canvas, or otherwise, such imita- 
 tions as it is possible to gain. A pathway takes the tourist 
 iu the grove to all points of interest, and the subdued light, 
 with the distant roaring of the avalanche breaking on the 
 stillness, gives quite a charm to the locality. Near the 
 smoother portion of the waters was a huge tree, hurled from 
 its roots directly across the stream, as much as to say, 
 '•Thus far, but no farther, you may go." But the eddies 
 and bubbles laugh at the obstruction, and whirl under and 
 over the trunk and branches in very sport. In the summer 
 season picnic parties assemble here in force, and try to 
 echo their voices louder than the roar of the cataract, as the 
 waters dash, leap, and form themselves into rapids over the 
 big, rocky boulders standing high out of the river's bed. 
 Situated in this neighborhood, some excellent farms and 
 orchards are to be seen. 
 
 Ice-Cutting. 
 
 This is an interesting and very necessary occupation in 
 the United States ; besides which, in Massachusetts, at least, 
 ice has become an important article of export, and the trade 
 is now quite large to the Southern States, West Indies, and 
 different parts of Europe. Hiding in a sleigh about twelve 
 miles out of Boston to a crystal lake, the process of cutting 
 the ice is thus effected : the upper crust, or inferior ice, is 
 planed off by a machine drawn by horses, after which the 
 fragments are cleared away by an apparatus like a scoop, 
 also drawn by horses. The surface thus pared is clear and 
 glassy, ready for the markers, who draw a line with a sharp 
 instrument, to indicate the dimensions of the blocks to be 
 cut. which are then sawed, until the same are almost severed, 
 when a broad, flat-faced crowbar is used to divide them. 
 The squares are floated into a small canal (cut for the pur- 
 pose) passed on to the ice-houses, and hauled up into the 
 buildings by steam power. The houses in which the ice 
 
110 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 is deposited consist of a range of lofty buildings of large 
 dimensions, and necessarily, also, of great height, owing to 
 the many blocks therein contained. The process of stow- 
 ing these blocks is very peculiar ; they are laid one layer over 
 another, and the interstices filled with snow, so as to make 
 a compact mass, and then covered with tan, in such a way 
 that the whole remains perfectly cold and solid till the following 
 summer. The immense trade done in this way would sur- 
 prise a stranger ; yet when it is considered that every house- 
 keeper is compelled, by reason of the great heat in summer, 
 to make use of this valuable commodity, it is no wonder that 
 it becomes so profitable an article of trade. Ice-cutting 
 seems like cold work to the casual looker-on, yet the work- 
 men are always stripped to the shirt, and appear bathed in 
 perspiration. The after effects, though, are sometimes dis- 
 astrous ; for one of the workmen whom we saw fell into a 
 stupor, as he returned home (the effect of cold after heat), 
 rested on the wayside to sleep, and never woke again. 
 
 Sleigh-Riding. 
 
 •The cold weather and sleigh-riding to some are very enjoy- 
 able, but not to the writer ; the cold is so intense, that care 
 must be taken, or else the nose and ears will be frost-bitten. 
 The cold, bracing air (if you can stand it) is highly salubri- 
 ous, and the health of the inhabitants is, generally speaking, 
 far better and stronger in winter than summer. The snow- 
 storms at times are very violent, and drifting in a night some 
 eight or ten feet. Sleigh riding and driving is to most per- 
 sons a peculiarly pleasant and exciting amusement. The 
 silent smoothness with which the runners dash through the 
 snow, the internal ease and comfort of the conveyance, the 
 gay trappings of the one or more horses that draw, and the 
 numerous sleighs one meets, with fast-trotting steeds, nil 
 contribute to give an indescribable charm to this favorite 
 winter recreation. Ladies are especially seen to great ad- 
 vantage, while employed in this agreeable mode of travel- 
 ling, for their well-assorted wintry costumes become them 
 very prettily ; while their merry, ringing laugh sounds full 
 of life and vivacity, and the clear atmosphere fanning their 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. Ill 
 
 cheeks gives the countenance an air of charming naivete, and 
 paints their complexion with the roseate hue of blooming 
 health. 
 
 It is a merry time, this season of sleigh-riding in the 
 United States ; every person's animal spirits seem unusually 
 light and elastic ; and sometimes companies of twenty cou- 
 ples, of both sexes, are collected to fill a gigantic sleigh, 
 drawn by six horses. Then it is, when all are snugly en- 
 sconced with lap robes and wraps, that, as the poet says : — 
 
 " Obsequious to their call, the docile steeds 
 Yield to the sleigh their necks, and whirl them swift, 
 The joy-hells tinkling as they whirl along, 
 O'er hill and dale, heaped into one expanse 
 Of marbled snow, as far as eye can sweep, 
 With a blue crust of ice unbounded glazed." 
 
 In this case, it is usual to drive to a distant hotel, where, 
 after a merry dance or cheerful chat and singing, they par- 
 take of a well-served supper, and then return home by 
 moonlight, in their swift conveyance. 
 
 Before closing this sketch of wintry pastime, we may add 
 that of coasting, by boys and girls. If ever there was a dan- 
 gerous practice on this earth, allowed by the police, it is 
 this dangerous racing down slippery inclines, with primitive 
 small and large sleds. Every winter has its catalogue of 
 misery, in regard to bruised limbs, and often fatal accidents 
 happening on streets, where passing teams come in collision 
 with the adventurous voungsters, maiming them for life. 
 
 American Religion ; its Observances. 
 
 " The seas shall waste, the skies in smoke decay, 
 Rocks fall to dust, and mountains melt away; 
 But fixed His word, His saving power remains ; 
 Thy realm forever lasts, thy own Messiah reigns." — Pope. 
 
 In no country in the world, perhaps, is there such a 
 splitting of sects, in the Christian Church, as in the United 
 States, where Episcopalians, Independents, Presbyterians, 
 Baptists, Wesleyans, Moravians, Adventists, Unitarians, 
 Universalists, New Jerusalemites, Quakers, Mormonites, 
 Spiritualists, Salvationists, and many other sects, scarcely 
 known by name outside of this continent, such as the Me n 
 
112 GAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 nonites, Shakers, etc., have a substantive existence, and 
 large bodies of church members ; and sad is sometimes the 
 contention that arises from the perfect liberty of religion, 
 ami its total severment from the business of the State. In 
 the Presbyterian, Congregational, Baptist, Wesleyan, and 
 Unitarian churches the mode of worship is as simple as 
 possible ; the prayers are delivered extemporaneously, and 
 differ, therefore, on every occasion, a circumstance which 
 some consider to give them an advantage over the slated, for- 
 mal prayers of other denominations, which deal, they say, in 
 vain repetitions, that make little impression on the heart, 
 and sul stitute the form and the letter that killeth for the 
 spirit that giveth life. The interiors of American churches 
 — or meeting-houses — have a very comfortable look, with 
 their cushioned seats and carpeted floors ; the former, with 
 the hassocks, being provided by the church authorities, in 
 order to preserve uniformity, and avoid that hybrid appear- 
 ance which is so common in many of the European churches, 
 where yellow, green, red, and blue cushion seats offend the 
 eye. 
 
 The Boston and New York churches, in some respects, 
 are beautifully constructed, as regards their interior archi- 
 tecture, are very lofty, and provided with excellent organs 
 and well-trained choirs, engaged and paid for the purpose. 
 In the country churches the service is, of course, much more 
 simple, and the quality of the singing must depend on the 
 resources of the neighborhood ; but we can safely say that 
 in many country towns, church music is to be heard quite as 
 good as in some of the large cities. It were, perhaps, invid- 
 ious to single out for eulogy any particular clergyman, in 
 a country that has so many talented, faithful, and devoted 
 servants of the Most High. 
 
 The clergy, :is a class, seem to be faithful workers, many 
 of them having risen from the ranks, and almost self-edu- 
 cated men. and imbued with deep fervor, high talent, and im- 
 pressiveness. Some of their illustrations are very pathetic, 
 their admonitions so affectionate, their concern for immortal 
 souls so evidently sincere, that it is no wonder that they win 
 the hearts, and often are the instruments, under heaven, of 
 changing the lives of those who come under their influence. 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 1 11 
 
 Meriden, Conn. 
 
 Probably no town or city in the Union, for its size, has 
 more self-made men than Meriden. From a comparative 
 swamp of thirty years ago, it has now become a prosperous, 
 growing city of more than twenty-five thousand inhabitants, 
 most of which people are chiefly occupied in the manufactur- 
 ing interest of hard and soft metal ware, the greater number 
 of the employees being artisans earning good wages ; also 
 many female workers who are very talented in their various 
 avocations, commanding in some instances excellent remu- 
 neration for their industry. Many are the names that have 
 arisen to the foremost rank of fortune in this busy town. 
 Meriden is the highway to New York, being about two hours 
 and a half steam-car ride to the great metropolis; and all 
 through trains from Boston and other points stop here, mak- 
 ing it quite a lively place. On a recent visit to Meriden. we 
 found the busy city much altered and improved ; a large pas- 
 senger station, opposite the extensive works of the Meriden 
 Britannia Company (on the model of the New Haven depot), 
 meets the eye of the visitor, which greatly facilitates the in- 
 creasing demands of traffic, and adds much to the comfort 
 of travellers in the spacious waiting-rooms ; an improved 
 contrast, compared to the dingy ticket-office of years ago. 
 A long, roomy freight depot has also been erected, to meet 
 the numerous wants in that branch of business, and quite 
 a lofty, sightly hotel has been built within a few years ; also 
 a new, spacious post-office, in the rear of which is a modern, 
 commodious theatre, all in the same structure ; Colony 
 Street can boast of a substantial granite Congregational 
 church, erected during the author's four pleasant years' so- 
 journ in sociable Meriden some time since. In fact, impos- 
 ing blocks of new buildings are springing up everywhere, 
 with handsome stores, fitted with plate-glass windows, giving 
 quite an air of business prosperity and bright, animated look 
 to the old town. The people of Meriden are very courteous 
 to a stranger, as a rule, and endeavor to make every one 
 welcome ; the hospitable character of the inhabitants is 
 known far and wide, and workmen once located in this city 
 seldom leave it, unless unforeseen circumstances compel them 
 
114 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 to do so ; even then, the old feeling of wishing to return 
 oftentimes haunts the minds of the absent, for a renewal of 
 the friendly intercourse of years ago. On the upper portion 
 of the town are some fine views of the " Blue Hills" range, 
 from which, in clear weather, can be seen Long Island Sound 
 and other places. 
 
 "Mount Lamentation" and the adjacent hills, in fair 
 weather, have a beautiful tinge of color of bright blue, but on 
 the approach of a storm, the color changes to a sullen-look- 
 ing, ominous gray, and at other times enveloped in a misty 
 vapor. A visit to the " Blue Hills" is always a charming 
 walk or climb, and with a party of picnickers some hours 
 can be agreeably spent, one thousand feet above the level of 
 the sea ; a sharp lookout for snakes is necessary in this re- 
 gion, where the brush and underwood is most dense, for in 
 certain seasons the place used to abound with the reptiles, 
 though most are of the black snake species, without the 
 dangerous poison venom or warning rattle. 
 
 The Connecticut State Reform School., situated inMeriden, 
 is one of the best conducted in the country. The buildings are 
 located on a commanding eminence, in full view of the New 
 York, Hartford & New Haven Railroad, overlooking the city 
 and surrounding country, and presenting one of the fin- 
 est landscape views to be seen in the vicinity. The admin- 
 istration of the school, on 'the part of the State, is vested in a 
 board of eight trustees, one from each county in the State, 
 elected for four years. Two of them are retired each year, 
 and their places tilled by the Senate in executive session. 
 The trustees elect superintendent and other officers. Next 
 to the superintendent, one would imagine, is the farmer of 
 the State farm, surrounding the school, as this officer has to 
 keep a watchful eye on his assistants (the reform I toys). 
 some of whom work on the land, while others learn trades in 
 the workrooms, and though occasionally some of these farm- 
 boys prove runaways, yet the} r are invariably re-captured, 
 and return very penitent to school. 
 
 The interior of all the buildings is most cleanly, and the 
 chapel service is conducted very orderly and with decorum, as 
 the discipline, though not outwardly severe, shows firmness 
 by those in authority. 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 115 
 
 Occasionally some of the best behaved of the boys are 
 taken to concerts at the Young Men's Christian Association, 
 in charge of an officer, and the little fellows seem to enjoy 
 their treat. These reform schools are a great credit to the 
 State in which they belong, in endeavoring to uplift the 
 wayward and vicious boy to be a good citizen. 
 
 The Trotting Park. 
 
 About a mile from the city limits is a good trotting-park, 
 in which is held its annual agricultural fair, with a general av- 
 erage showing of cattle raising. At the trotting and running 
 races are usually seen some fast horses on these grounds ; 
 also at other times in the season, when matches are made by 
 citizens of Meriden to back their trotters against all comers, 
 as the city magnates are well-known owners of some good, 
 fleet animals. A grand stand of ample size is on the giound, 
 where visitors can see all around the track. Some seasons 
 ago a party of Mexican horsemen came to this park to ex- 
 hibit their skill and prowess on their mustang ponies, and 
 certainly such rapid and skilful riding in all manner of posi- 
 tions was truly wonderful ; particularly so, when one looked 
 at the poor, half-starved, ill-groomed animals ; but when the 
 word * l off" was given, away went the mustangs like the 
 wind, running around the track, the riders occasionally lean- 
 ing head downwards, and in other grotesque and difficult 
 postures this band of Mexican horsemen paraded before us. 
 These performers had also a game of polo on horseback and 
 on foot ; both games were played with great rapidity of ac- 
 tion, and with the appearance of some little danger in riding 
 one another down in the excitement of the contest. During 
 the agricultural fair of 18<s9 the show of cattle on these 
 grounds was said to be the finest of its kind, but the fair was 
 much marred by stormy weather. 
 
 There is an old tradition that the name Merriden, or Mer- 
 iden, is compounded of two words, " Merry " and " den" ; 
 and that in an old stone house built in that locality there 
 were so many merry meetings of travellers, that the place 
 acquired the nickname of " Merry-den." At or before the 
 union of the colonies of Connecticut and New Haven, there 
 
116 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 was a, grant made to Mr. Andrew Belcher of a tract of land, 
 containing nearly live hundred acres, on condition of bis 
 building a stone house or fort, with port-holes, and keeping 
 arms and ammunition. With the land he was to have the 
 right of keeping a tavern forever The stone house stood 
 not far from the late residence of Mr. John Yale, in the 
 northern part of the town. 
 
 The Reservoir, at Meriden, Conn. 
 
 The visitor to Meriden may find an interesting excursion 
 by taking the road to ' k The Notch," between West and 
 South Mountains. For the purpose of supplying the city of 
 Meriden with water, a lake or reservoir has been formed, a 
 mile in length, in this gorge. The reseivoir has an area of 
 seventy-seven and one halfacr.es, and derives its waters from 
 the drainage of the various declivities. The peaceful, still- 
 ness of the lake, lying amid woods in this mountain defile, 
 used to be broken by the occasional fishing parlies, who 
 would make the grand old place echo with their voices and 
 laughter, and serve another purpose by scaring the snakes 
 away which might be lying in ambush for the unwary. 
 Many times have the writer and his friends visited this 
 charming locality ; the quiet and serenity of the scene gave 
 us the idea that we were far removed from the haunts of 
 men, instead of being so near to the busy hives of industry 
 on the plains just below. 
 
 Cathole Pass, at Meriden, Conn. 
 
 The narrator of these pages having often walked and 
 driven through this defile of Nature's handiwork, will offer a 
 description thereof. The tourist will find great attraction 
 over the Kensington road to the long, narrow Cathole Gap, 
 or Pass, between South Mountain and Cathole eminence, and 
 fancy at times find a profile of Washington in the outline on 
 the highest pinnacle of mountain view. The Cap is cut ob- 
 Liquely by gorges, and hence its succession of 'summits; the 
 slopes of fallen stones that descend from the heights to the 
 valley originally met at the bottom, where many of the large 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 117 
 
 masses lay piled in heaps ; and the Cathole Pass, once so 
 difficult of travel under Nature's formation, thus merited its 
 name. There is now a good carriage road through it. 
 
 The view from the more southern aspect, over the Meriden 
 region, embraces the far-away hills and dales of verdant 
 country and the rivers flowing to Long Island Sound, and 
 is one of great beauty. The grand pile of rocks at the bot- 
 tom of the celebrated Cathole Pass, derived from the heights 
 above, suggests motion and violence ; yet the boulders of 
 moss-covered gray and green look quiet enough in their sub- 
 lime repose, though the work of falling blocks is still going 
 quietly on at intervals, and will continue as long as storms 
 and Nature's elements displace the huge fragments from 
 their rocky beds. 
 
 '• You can train the eye to see all the bright places in life, 
 And so slip over the hard ones with surprising ease ; 
 You can also train the eye to rest on the gloomy spots, 
 In utter forgetfulness of all that is bright and beautiful." 
 
 The Tornado at WaHingford, Conn. 
 
 While residing in Meriden, some year* ago, the mind re- 
 calls the terrible tornado that took place in the adjacent 
 town of Wallingford. Such a devastation and destruction of 
 human life and property by the mysterious whirlwind was 
 most appalling. In two or three minutes, without warning, 
 the tornado swept over the doomed little city, breaking, 
 crushing, and hurling the frail tenement houses like so many 
 match-boxes ; also, a brick-built school-house came in for its 
 share of demolition. Twenty- four little mounds of earth 
 were seen a few days after the dreadful calamity, in the 
 churchyard near by, — a mute and sad memento of the vis- 
 itation. The deluge of rain and darkening sky accompanied 
 the cyclone around and about Connecticut that fatal even- 
 ing. Though the grief, bereavement, and suffering of that 
 terrible Avhirlwind will be felt in the desolate hearts and 
 homes for many years to come, yet generous, helping hands 
 assisted to restore the wrecked town by bountiful subscrip- 
 tions, to aid the wounded citizens at that lamentable time, 
 
118 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 so that now not a vestige is to be seen of the sad havoc of 
 that dreadful calamity which invaded the peaceful hamlet of 
 Wallingf'ord. 
 
 New Britain, Conn. 
 
 A pleasant ride of some few miles from Meriden, through 
 villages of farming land and the pretty township of Kensing- 
 ton, brings one to the clean, cosey city of New Britain, 
 numbering about fifteen thousand inhabitants, the most of 
 whom are engaged in the extensive hardware trade carried 
 on here by eminent firms. The most noticeable is Russell 
 & Erwin's large establishment, noted for first-class bronze 
 metal and iron ware, the newest and choicest designs of or- 
 namental locks and butts, and other useful articles. The 
 Messrs. Corbin likewise do a large business in fine hardware 
 goods. 
 
 Aliout two and a half miles from the city proper is a sheet 
 of water called " .Shuttle Meadow Lake," in the summer 
 season much frequented by all classes. The narrator has en- 
 joyed, with friends, some pleasant hours in fishing from its 
 shores, and also from a row-boat moored in a sequestred 
 nook, where the placid waters heave gently to and fro in 
 their calm repose. This lake is a popular rendezvous for 
 picnics in fine weather, the German element generally taking 
 tbe lead in these gatherings, and oftentimes have the glee- 
 clubs of this happy race been heard across ''Shuttle 
 Meadow " in their vocal festive reunions, as they sang innu- 
 merable wild, weird songs of their fatherland. 
 
 In the centre of New Britain is an enclosure, or small 
 park, prettily laid out, and planted with trees and shrubs ; 
 also embellished with a large fountain, the cool, splashing 
 waters of which gave a very refreshing look on a hot day 
 From the hotel parlor, opposite the "Green,'' we have 
 oftentimes enjoyed the quiet of eventide, as the shadowy 
 twilight has flickered, wavered, and then vanished for the 
 day. The reservoir on Walnut Hill is a favorite resort of 
 New Britain people and visitors to the town, where, on a 
 clear day, the gilt dome of the Hartford State House is quite 
 discernible ; also many other distant places of interest. 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 119 
 
 A feature of this town is the unusually large size of the 
 yards and gardens belonging to the houses, most of which 
 are kept in excellent order by the thrifty owners. In the 
 north part of the city is the new opera house, a marked 
 improvement on the old barn-like theatre, and near the 
 " Green" is a tall, stately block of buildings, with modern- 
 built post-office, erected within a few years, and other ad- 
 vanced strides of progress, such as a much-needed want, 
 that of a new, modern, spacious depot, with lengthened 
 platform, in lieu of the primitive wayside sort of station ; 
 a freight depot has also been added, of increased dimen- 
 sions, to meet the wants of increasing traffic. 
 
 New Britain has several large churches, presided over 
 by eminent divines, and many Sabbaths have been enjoyed 
 by the writer in these sacred edifices during his twelve- 
 months' stay in the town ; and in the pleasant drives of the 
 outlying districts, in company with friends, many recollec- 
 tions spring up of past years with treasured memory. 
 
 Not far distant from the Strickland House was (and may 
 still be there) the old homestead of the late Mr. Elihu Bur- 
 riit, linguist, writer, and scholar. The aged gentleman was 
 much endeared to his old home, and in his later days could 
 be seen in his garden, quietly ruminating on all (perhaps) 
 that was past and gone, " calmly awaiting the end of his 
 valued life. A school-house adjoining is named after the 
 scholarly gentleman, a fitting emblem of remembrance to be 
 handed down to future generations. 
 
 Battle-flag Day, at Hartford, Conn. 
 
 The good city of Hartford never counted so many persons 
 as it did on the memorable day of placing the flags (in the 
 new State capitol) taken from the enemy during the Civil 
 War, and their own battered but honored standards. From 
 early morn till noon, cars loaded with citizen soldiers came 
 from all parts of the Northern States, to do honor and 
 respect to this great event. The streets were thronged with 
 holiday sight-seers, and the various mottoes and devices of 
 welcome were everywhere ; the streamers flying in the wind 
 and the bands of music playing made it a day long to be 
 
120 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 remembered. The procession of soldiers and civil authori- 
 ties was of immense length, which took some time to pass 
 by, and as the day was a very hot one, kind neighbors fur- 
 nished lemonade and other light refreshments for the weary 
 men on the march in the noonday sun. Gen. Hawley, 
 assisted by numerous military aids, was the marshal of the 
 day, and the governor of Connecticut and his staff were in 
 attendance at the State capitoi to assist in receiving the flags 
 — those liattered tokens of bravery, hardship, and military 
 strife. As each regiment marched past, and deposited their 
 color in the hands of those appointed to receive it, the bands 
 in attendance saluted by a roll of drums in its honor and 
 memory, dimming the eyes of many a veteran of the Grand 
 Army Corps on the ground : brave men. who had fought 
 hard, and gave their sons' best blood to save the old flag, 
 anil save the severance of the Union. 
 
 The Capitol Park was a very animated scene on that day, 
 and was literally tilled with soldiers and people, all bent upon 
 having a good time; and many were the old stories told 
 over again, of how hard-fought battles were lost and won, 
 and the hardships, privations, and sufferings at Bull's Run, 
 Gettysburg, and other blood-stained battle-fields were re- 
 counted again and again to old cronies, separated for years. 
 but brought together to-day from distant States, in company 
 with the few of their old comrades left. All were at the 
 >tcps of the magnificent capitoi to bow their uncovered heads 
 as the salute sounded once more to a torn and battered Hag 
 which was to be sacredly taken care of and revered within the 
 capitoi walls. 
 
 It was a grand time, this storing of the battle-flags, and it 
 was joyful and sorrowful to witness those brave olficers and 
 men, all intermingling and fraternizing after long times of 
 separation in their different localities and avocations of life, 
 once more brought together, perhaps for the last time, as 
 many were aged and bowed in form ; but all stood erect, 
 when the rataplan gave a salute to the next honorable, 
 bullet-shotten, torn standard, that faintly fluttered in the 
 wind, an emblem of the brave hearts that stood around, 
 also tottering and worn from exposure at that fatiguing time 
 of strife, and from intirmi'ies of age ; but still all were able 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 121 
 
 to bold up their heads and march homeward at the last 
 roll of drums, with the proud consciousness of having done 
 their duty at the call of a nation's honor in jeopardy. 
 
 The State Capitol at Hartford. 
 
 The magnificent capitol, on its rising ground, seemed to 
 gain renewed splendor from the associations of the day, as 
 the battle-flags were carefully deposited in their final resting- 
 place, as sacredly as if it was a friend being put away to 
 his last earthly resting-place. Any one of my readers, 
 passing through Hartford, should pay the State capitol and 
 park grounds a visit; the building is a superior one, both 
 interior and exterior. The House of Representatives and 
 the Senate Chamber are as finely equipped, as to comfort 
 and elegance, as any on this continent; there are some 
 chaste interior decorations, both figure and ornamental : the 
 floors are made of tesselated pavement, and are beautiful in 
 the extreme. Taken altogether, the edifice is as commodious 
 as it is elegant, and the Hartford citizens may well be proud 
 of their really fine public building, while the whole State of 
 Connecticut may justly be proud of its capitol. The lofty 
 dome of the structure is seen to great advantage in the park, 
 and the stone carvings of the exterior command attention to 
 its merit as fine work of the sculptor's chisel. 
 
 Wethersfield Prison, near Hartford, Conn. 
 
 On a warm, balmy day of June, 1879, the writer, in com- 
 pany with a friend, visited the above-named prison for the 
 State of Connecticut. The courteous warden showed us 
 through this abode of the convicted. On a rack in a corner 
 of the anteroom was a file of loaded muskets, for the use of 
 the officials in case of riot or attempted escape of the pris- 
 oners confined within. Also to be seen are numerous imple- 
 ments used by house-breakers and burglars, such as gags, 
 skeleton keys, etc, and the pistol (a small one) is pointed 
 out as the weapon that fired the shot which killed the keeper, 
 Shipman, by Hamblin and Allen ; both were then awaiting 
 
122 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 execution for that murder ; eventually, one was hanged, and 
 the other confined in prison for life ; though the primary 
 mover and tempter of the wicked deed, and unfaithful watch- 
 man, was allowed to live his life-sentence. 
 
 The cells or sleeping places of the convicts are very 
 small, but scrupulously clean, and run in corridors of four 
 tiers ; each row of cells has a spring bar, which is let down 
 and closes all the key-holes of that range, when the prison- 
 ers have retired for the night, so that no false keys can be 
 used till the spring bar has been removed. 
 
 All along the entire length of the building is stout stove 
 piping on either side, warmed by two very large coal-fires, 
 even in that warm June weather, the air being obliged to 
 "be kept up to a good temperature, to prevent dampness ris- 
 ing to the walls. 
 
 The number of male prisoners lodged in the cells every 
 night was two hundred and sixty-one ; the female convicts 
 (located in a distant part of the building) numbered but six. 
 We may here mention that a small force of seventeen officers, 
 all told, appeared a very inadequate strength to control, in 
 the event of a surprise or mutiny, so large a body of law- 
 less men, many of whom had the reputation of having been 
 most desperate characters. The bread, molasses, soups, and 
 other kinds of food shown us appeared very excellent in qual- 
 ity, of which an ample supply is allotted to each inmate. 
 
 Passing on to the workshops, we found convicts of all 
 ages, from the almost boy to the white-headed old man, 
 each busily engaged in the occupation of shoemaking in its 
 various branches, under the direction of paid instructors, and 
 likewise under supervision of officers perched on raised seats 
 or small platforms ; the prison rules not permitting prisoners 
 to talk with each other, neither to raise their eyes to look at 
 visitors. In one of these shops (it being his first day at 
 work) was the convict Bishop; his wan face, attenuated 
 form, and dejected mien spoke volumes of the hopeless, 
 inward suffering appertaining to a life-sentence for wife- 
 murder by poisoning. The escape from execution of this 
 man is one of the many strange acts of clemency often por- 
 trayed by the law authorities of the State of Connecticut. 
 
 In all stages of shoemaking these busy criminals work 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 123 
 
 their ten hours per day, retiring to their cells to bed, and 
 possibly to forgetfulness, at a quarter to eight, evenings ; 
 rising to sound of a bell at a quarter to six, mornings ; 
 thence to prayers, afterwards to breakfast and the day's 
 labor. Such is the ordinary daily life of the Wethersfleld 
 convict, in its miserable routine ; and we ma} T mention, 
 whenever any prisoners meet visitors in the corridors, the 
 convicts invariably turn their faces to the wall, and remain 
 in th'it position till the company have passed ; such are the 
 stringent rules. 
 
 Various small articles, such as tooth-picks, paper-knives, 
 and watch-charms, made from ivory or bone, are for sale, 
 manufactured by the convicts in their leisure hours, the goods 
 thus sold being for the benefit of those who made them. 
 
 Crossing a large, grassy court-yard, we observed a senti- 
 nel on duty at the top of its high walls, pacing up and down 
 an enclosed sort of room, watching every prisoner's move- 
 ment as he crosses the jail-yard ; and woe be to the unlucky 
 man who would be rash enough to try for liberty, for a shot 
 from the pointed rifle would speedily end the criminal's mis- 
 eries. 
 
 How gloriously the sun shone that day in the grassy court- 
 yard, but the rays, as the}' danced in and out of the windows 
 of the workshops, must have appeared as a mockery to those 
 pale-faced workers within, in the hopelessness of their 
 drudging life, in expiation of deeds dreadful to think of in 
 this age of enlightenment. What a strange catalogue of 
 crime presents itself here ; men, women, and youths, many 
 of whom, perhaps, in earlier years had a good example at 
 home, now by their desperate and wayward deeds are brought 
 to this pass. Perpetrators of all degrees of crime are here : 
 murderers for money, slayers of wives in fiendish passion, 
 through drinking or jealousy, burglars, coiners, forgers, and 
 the worst of all, the premeditated plotter and poisoner, the 
 last named of whom we will touch as lightly as we can, as it 
 refers to a woman. 
 
 Mrs. Cobb (the poisoner of her husband), when we were 
 shown into her room, was industriously sewing, in company 
 with Mrs. Alexander, of Bridgeport diabolical notoriety, and 
 another female criminal. A lady keeper arose as we entered, 
 
124 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 but Mrs. Cobb perseveringly averted her face from us, and 
 kept her head down to her work. She appeared a woman of 
 robust health, strong and vigorous in form, — a decided con- 
 trast to her guilty paramour, Bishop. Mrs. Cobb has to do 
 her share of washing, ironing, and sewing, and other menial 
 work, the livelong day. 
 
 Naturally a feeling of compassion arises for this or any 
 other woman in such a degraded state, doomed to drag out a 
 lifelong sentence, as it were, in a living tomb, with the dread- 
 ful thought always in mind of the heinous crime of husband 
 poisoning ; the torture of accusing conscience, preying by 
 night and day, must be punishment, indeed, for that crimi- 
 nal intimacy with her convicted companion, Bishop. That 
 a final ending to such lives, so terribly fraught with misery 
 and woe, would be a welcome, one could imagine, to the 
 miserable, misguided, and guilty pair. 
 
 On leaving the gloomy portals of this State Prison, one 
 thought possessed us, that of relief to breathe the pure air of 
 heaven once more outside of its frowning walls, and to 
 ponder how differently the fates of those within might have 
 been, had their headlong passions not have lost their balance 
 of good against evil, and to have inculcated in their minds 
 the good precepts of the Redeemer's guidance by leading a 
 righteous, calm, and godly life, so that the anguish of many 
 a broken heart would have been avoided, and many a lost 
 soul saved ! Well might the poet say of these unfortunate 
 criminals, whose penitence was sincere : — 
 
 " Stone walls do not a prison make, 
 Nor iron bars a cage ; 
 Minds innocent and quiet take 
 
 That lor an hermitage. 
 If I have freedom in my love, 
 
 And in my soul am free, 
 Angels alone, that soar above, 
 Enjoy such liberty." 
 
 — Richard Lovelace. 
 
 The Lady of the Rock, Connecticut. 
 
 The legend of this little story is founded on fact ; history 
 telling us, in all veracity, of the trials, troubles, and vicissi- 
 tudes of a noble-hearted lady, named Alice Heath, who, with 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 125 
 
 her young husband and her father, fled from Great Britain 
 to Connecticut, New England. America, endeavoring to find 
 a refuge from the relentness pursuit instigated against them 
 by the emissaries of Charles II. of England, for the part 
 that this young lady's father and husband played, as two of 
 the judges who assisted at the trial of the unfortunate king 
 Charles I. ; though the two gentlemen in question (Gen. 
 Lisle and Mr. Heath) shrank from the task of signing the 
 death-warrant of the unhappy monarch, deeming that de- 
 thronement, and not bloodshed, was sufficient. 
 
 A brief retrospection may be somewhat interesting to my 
 readers. All students of English history must be able to 
 recall to mind, with especial distinctness, that .period in its 
 annals when the persecuted Charles I. drew upon himself the 
 odium and mistrust of Parliament ; and London witnessed 
 the unprecedented scene of the trial of a king for treason, 
 before a court chosen from amongst his subjects. Of more 
 than one hundred and thirty judges, appointed by the Com- 
 mons, about seventy sat in constant attendance. Chief in 
 rank and importance of these was Gen. Lisle, a man of 
 unwavering firmness of purpose, and his opposition to the 
 fallen monarch was dictated by the purest patriotism and re- 
 ligion. His beautiful daughter, Alice Lisle (afterwards Mrs. 
 Heath) , married one of the younger judges of the unfortunate 
 monarch, a few days prior to the execution of Charles Stuart, 
 and it is on history's record of the young lady's interview 
 with the stern Cromwell, a few hours before the death of the 
 king by the headsman ; her bold pleadings for mere} 7 , on 
 behalf of the fallen monarch, as on her knees she begged 
 long, but in vain ; the canting, hypocritical mouthings of re- 
 ligion were in Oliver Cromwell's speech, as he rudely bade her 
 cease her reiterations on behalf of the " Son of Baliol " ; that 
 he must die, as the gods had so willed it. The passing over 
 of the sanguinary execution, which was a lasting disgrace to 
 the land which bore the name of England ; the great powers 
 given to Cromwell and the Protectorate ; his busy, eventful 
 life, so full of the boldness of character, and his endeavors 
 to restore something like order to his distracted country, are 
 well known to my readers. Cromwell's death, years after, 
 soon paved the way for the return of Charles II., or the 
 
126 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 " merrie monarch," as he was termed ; but how a sou could 
 be joyous and light-hearted a few years after his father had 
 been so unjustly put to death, is beyond the writer's compre- 
 hension. Sutiice it to say, Charles II. had energy enough 
 left in him to give the royal mandate for the searching out 
 and punishment of his father's murderers. 
 
 A few miles from New Haven, Conn., was an umbrageous 
 wood in a green valley, surrounded by various rocky hills, of 
 considerable height, rising in some places, one above another, 
 with great regularity, the highest apparently touching the 
 horizon, and the progressive ascent seeming like a ladder of 
 approach to the sky. It was here, in one of Nature's fast- 
 nesses or cavern, that Alice Heath and her husband and 
 father lay hidden for a long time, food being stealthily given 
 the fugitives by kind-hearted relatives. At length, growing 
 weary of the hunted life, Alice Heath went alone on board a 
 vessel to Kngland, to try to obtain forgiveness for her father 
 and her partner for life. She was seized, on entering Great 
 Britain, and immured in prison for sixteen long years, as a 
 hostage for her friends. The king was not acquainted with 
 the fact, — so says the legend, — and when Alice Heath, by 
 the powerful interest of the Duke of Buckingham, at last ob- 
 tained an interview with the merrie monarch, his Majesty 
 was struck with the lady's devotion to her friends ; and 
 being informed of her strenuous efforts in pleading his un- 
 fortunate father's case before the stony-hearted Cromwell, 
 the king gave at once his pardon to Gen. Lisle and Mr. 
 Heath. The lady's return to America, with the good news, 
 was in time only to see her father (now an aged man) die 
 peacefully on beholding his brave daughter once more. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Heath ended their days in Boston ; and 
 oftentimes, in the gloaming of eventide, the eventful trials of 
 their young life was a subject between them, of gratitude 
 for some years of peace and comfort ; and the sad remem- 
 brance of their fugitive career amongst the verdant hills of 
 Connecticut, when Mistress Alice Heath was occasionally 
 seen as a vapory spirit, emerging from the cavernous recesses, 
 causing disquiet to the simple villagers, who invariably termed 
 her the " Lady of the liocJc." 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 127 
 
 Waterbury, Conn., the " Brass City." 
 
 Waterbury, Conn., is situated in the well-known Nauga- 
 tuck valley, and is ninety-two miles from New York, and one 
 hundred and forty-nine from Boston. The city proper con- 
 tains a floating population of about thirty thousand inhabi- 
 tants, most of whom are busy workers in the brass manufac- 
 tories of the town. The great extent of producing articles 
 of every form and shape of needed usefulness in these hives 
 of industry is something marvellous. A long, steady stream 
 of constant workers, men, boys, and girls, may be seen by 
 the hundreds at seven o'clock a. m. and at six o'clock p. m., 
 wending their way patiently to and from their toilsome 
 labors. In passing through these hives of industry, one is 
 struck with the amount of perfected machinery in working 
 order at these large factories, for labor-saving machines are 
 used as much as possible in every way, from the making of the 
 minutest watch movement to the big brass, easel or church 
 pulpit and lectern, and in fact all articles needed in elegance 
 or domesticity, of hard and soft metal ware. One of the 
 foremost firms amongst the many brass manufacturers of this 
 city used to be the Matthews & Willard Company, whose 
 business premises were of large dimensions, and whose trade 
 was chiefly in decorative and ornamental hard-metal work. 
 The Waterbury Watch Company is another very busy empo- 
 rium which the writer inspected. 
 
 The places of amusement in Waterbury are not numerous, 
 but enough for the requirements of its population. Jean 
 Jacques Opera House, recently erected, is quite a neat, com- 
 modious theatre, and man} 7 good travelling companies play 
 here in the season. This opera house is certainly an improve- 
 ment on the old-time theatrical City Hall, with its hard-seat- 
 ing benches, and boys running around with cushions to sit on 
 for an extra dime, over the dollar seat fare. 
 
 The business or store portion of the city, called the " Cen- 
 tre," is located in a valley, or lower portion of the town ; 
 while in the upper part of the city are some fine residences, 
 chiefly occupied by the wealthy. The views from the heights 
 overlooking the environs are quite interesting, particularly 
 where the eye catches the silvery streak of the flowing Nau- 
 
128 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 gatuck River, in its p'ebbly bed of granite. Waterbury some 
 thirty years ago was a very different place from to-day, tbe 
 suburbs of the city being then but mere waste lands. That 
 was before American enterprise built the large mills and 
 factories in the immediate neighborhood. In November, 
 1886, horse-car operations commenced in Waterbury, and 
 some months afterwards a new element of business extension 
 was carried out, that of the Meriden & Waterbury Railroad 
 Company ; and now the two busy cities will be in a manner 
 drawn together by iron bands, and vie with each other in 
 their emulation of good-natured rivalry in trade prospects. 
 
 On Monday evening. April 25, 1887, Gen. W. T. Sher- 
 man and John Sherman (the senator) visited Waterbury for 
 the first time, en route to Woodbury, twelve miles distant, to 
 visit the house of their ancestors, and to look over the graves 
 of their progenitors, buried in the cemetery there. The 
 brothers Sherman, soldier and statesman, looked somewhat 
 alike, the general being the tallest in stature, and most 
 reserved in speech, whilst the financier was inclined to be 
 communicative. Roth men showed their age by their worn 
 look and gray beards, but their unassuming mien and gentle 
 manly bearing soon became apparent to a stranger. 
 
 The wonderful career of these two American citizens calls 
 forth a few remarks. The memorable march through Georgia 
 to the sea, during the late Civil War, will ever be remem- 
 bered as a marvellous military achievement of daring, fatigue, 
 and endurance. Gen. Sherman dashed through the hostile 
 South, accompanied by his brave soldiers, with indomitable 
 courage of trained veterans, though no doubt many poor and 
 weary men fell from sheer exhaustion, but the end was gained 
 — that of glory, as it is termed. And twenty-five years after 
 all this, we behold the once dashing young Sherman, a quiet, 
 reserved, old citizen, on a pilgrimage to the graves of his 
 ancestors. Not many Union generals of the late war remain 
 amongst us. Gen. Giant, the once idol of the army, has 
 gone to his rest, and many other brave soldiers have left us ; 
 while the South has lost its Gen. Lee, Stonewall Jackson, and 
 other gallant men on their side. 
 
 After this digression, we return to our subject. A mas- 
 querade ball, under the auspices of the "German Turner 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 129 
 
 Society," was given in March, 1887, at the City Hall, Water- 
 bury. The writer of theae pages had an invitation, and he 
 donned a naval uniform of antique period, accompanied by a 
 lady as a shepherdess, and went through the arduous effort 
 of dancing with suffocating masks on our faces. The effect 
 that evening was very inspiriting ; the grotesque and comical, 
 mixed up with the sentimental by the various characters 
 assumed, was a curious sort of by-play of the world's ways. 
 The music of the evening was very creditable, and some of 
 the costumes quite elegant. 
 
 Being invited to the St. Margaret's College annual school 
 fair, a very pleasant evening was spent inspecting the goods 
 in the school parlors, the tables being loaded with ladies' 
 specimens of fine needle-work, and fine art productions on 
 sale for charitable purposes. The floral i'ower caused great 
 attraction, by the pretty faces peeping through. At eight 
 o'clock p. m, the audience was ushered into the large school- 
 room of the college, to witness the event of the evening, — 
 the lady pupils undertaking the difficult task of playing 
 Shakespeare's comedy of " Much Ado about Nothing." On 
 crossing the lawn to the door of the main building, we soon 
 found the spacious school-room was utilized for the auditorium, 
 as it were, of a theatre, for the convenience of the hundreds 
 of well-dressed guests of all ages, from the little miss of ten- 
 der years to the young lady in her teens, who apparently 
 received the admiration of their young gentlemen friends as 
 their just due. The extreme end of the floor had a small 
 stage, with some primitive scenery of woodland, a large 
 archery target, and some lawn tennis racquets. The costumes 
 of the young lady performers were well-fitting, graceful, and 
 elegant, and worn as if they belonged to them. The make- 
 up of the fresh young faces of the girls was very peculiar and 
 somewhat amusing. Benedick and the other male characters 
 of the play were all enacted by the young lad}' scholars ; and 
 Shakespeare would have been pleased to see these assumed 
 young cavaliers in silken hose and doublet, and highly 
 polished boots to their shapely limbs, marching about the 
 mimic stage with graceful deportment ; and their fair, rosy 
 faces, embellished with a tiny moustache or full beard, were 
 quite natural, till the voices of the would-be cavaliers were 
 
130 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 heard, then the feminine sounds of articulation were easily 
 discovered, and the warm evening necessitated the various 
 lords aud noblemen to use the fans very vigorously, thus tak- 
 ing away, as it were, the male genuineness of the characters 
 of the play. Benedick and Beatrice, the leading players in 
 " Much Ado about Nothing," acquitted themselves well, as 
 did all the other young ladies ; the only fault, if any, w:is 
 the selection of so difficult a comedy for amateurs. 
 
 The elocution and declamation of the St. Margaret School 
 players showed the training of a master mind in the cultiva- 
 tion of the voice and the gestures at the right time, aud 
 reflect great credit to Prof. Russell, the principal of the 
 college, for his teaching of the pupils under his charge, in 
 this extra branch of young ladies' education, and where so 
 much study has to be inculcated in these modern days of 
 advancement aud refinement. 
 
 The Soldiers' Monument, in Waterbury. 
 
 A fitting memorial, erected on the Green, opposite St. 
 John's Church, is the soldiers' monument, in remembrance 
 of the brave fellows who fell in defence of the unity of the 
 Union. 
 
 The granite obelisk is surmounted by a colossal figure 
 representing the Goddess of Liberty, worked in bronze. 
 On each plinth of column is a soldier or sailor in full regi- 
 mentals, in attitudes of defence, emblematical of their will 
 in the endeavor to maintain intact their country's flag. 
 
 The cost of the soldiers' monument of Waterbury was 
 thirty thousand dollars ; and this tribute of veneration to 
 the brave men of the Brass City (most of whom fell in 
 action) is annually decorated with flowers, and speeches of 
 patriotic character, by selected speakers, are listened to with 
 much zest on the day of decoration. 
 
 Ansonia and Birmingham. 
 
 Quite a romantic ride of some few miles out of Waterbury 
 is the journey to Ansonia by the railway cars. An almost 
 continuous view of nearly perpendicular scenery skirts the 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 131 
 
 Naugatuck River for some miles, passing on our route Hill 
 Rock Grove, a very popular resort for picnic parties during 
 the summer season. Ansonia, Birmingham, and Derby are 
 all busy centres of brass and britannia goods, the towns 
 adjoining one another, the river dividing them by its broad, 
 shining expanse of water, free from rocks and eddies, which 
 are to be found at the source of the Naugatuck River. In 
 the more tortuous and narrow streams navigation of even a 
 small beat is utterly impossible for some miles, but as the 
 river approaches Derby, the addition of much larger streams 
 emptying into Old Ocean causes it to be navigable for small 
 steamers and other craft en route to Bridgeport and New 
 York. We may add that the water-power for mill purposes 
 is extensively used, where practicable, all along the Nauga- 
 tuck River and valley. 
 
 The Family Cat, " Mitey." 
 
 A full-grown feline of unusually large size, of the male 
 species, is a great favorite of our family circle ; from a small 
 kitten it has been domesticated amongst us, and grown grad- 
 ually into the young-tiger-like dimensions of a big cat ; its 
 color is tawny and striped, bearing some resemblance to a 
 wild animal. From its very earliest age its propensity for 
 pugilistic encounters was terrible, when attacked or imposed 
 upon ; though naturally of a quiet, kind nature at home, 
 yet a perfect demon abroad, and woe betide the unlucky 
 tom-cat that crossed the warpath of our pet and favorite. 
 Mitey has been somewhat of a traveller ; born and reared in 
 Meriden, Conn., he was transferred from thence to New 
 York City, where; having arrived but a few hours, he fought 
 and conquered innumerable other felines in quite a scientific 
 manner. Some months later, the animal was brought to 
 New Haven on the day steamer, the writer having charge of 
 his Highness. It being summer time, and music played on 
 the deck, Mite} 7 , in his large basket prison, was placed near 
 the big fiddle, to hear the music, and likewise get the fresh 
 air and sea breeze. When the first tune (a waltz) was being 
 played, the cat chimed in with his solo, much to the surprise 
 of the musicians and the numerous bystanders. 
 
 Lately, since his settlement in New Bedford, Mitev has 
 
132 
 
 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 got somewhat in disgrace, stopping" from home days and 
 nights, and having no regular meals; when at last, in obe- 
 dience to his young mistress's repeated calls of '• Mitey, 
 Mitey," his head appears above the back fence, minus a part 
 of his ear, one eye closed and swollen, the fore paws bruised 
 and torn ; in fact, his whole air and bearing having a most 
 disreputable look of au old warrior, who has been a long 
 time skirmishing on the war-path. 
 
 Mitey is getting on in years now. and cannot show fight 
 with as much vigor as usual, keeps at home more, ami dozes 
 
 by the fire, with one eye elosed and the remaining eye open, 
 on the lookout for any passing enemy in the yard. Quite a 
 number of portraits of the indomitable Mitey, in the various 
 stages of his existence, from the kitten to the matured old 
 veteran, adorn the walls of the house ; these life-like pictures 
 being faithfully executed by the young lady artist who owns 
 Mitey, and who always imagines the turbulent old cat can 
 never be in the wrong, in the various encounters with his 
 different enemies of the neighborhood. Dogs and kittens 
 are an ave'rsion to our friend Mitey. When met with, he 
 majestically walks away, as if they were beneath his notice. 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 133 
 
 One day our parrot got out of the cage, and walked on the 
 floor of the room, where the cat was lying. In an instant, 
 Mitey was on the defensive for a battle royal with the saucy 
 bird, who was continually calling out names offensive to the 
 feline animal. However, after a brief survey of each other, 
 a sort of truce seemed to be entered into, and compromise 
 effected, as they went expeditiously in opposite directions. 
 
 The Cat, Kitten, and Mouse, at Boston. 
 
 An acquaintance of the writer, who keeps a meat market 
 in Faueuil Hall Squa/e, Boston, lately showed to his friends 
 a full-grown cat, who a few weeks since caught a large 
 mouse, and instead of killing the little animal, as most of 
 the feline tribe do, introduced the nearly frightened to death 
 mouse to a small kitten belonging to the cat. It was a 
 strange sight to witness the playfulness of the mouse and the 
 gambols of the kitten, one with the other, in a deep box, 
 where they were kept; the mother cat with them, looking 
 calmly on, no doubt surprised in her catly way at her own 
 forbearance in not sacrificing poor mousey. One day, how- 
 ever, the mouse by some means escaped from the box, and 
 was away four hours ; the cat during that time sat discon- 
 solately on the top of the box, mewing and whining in a way 
 felines do, eventually bringing the little truant from its hid- 
 ing place ; and the owner said, such a fuss of a meeting took 
 place, wonderful to witness, between the old cat and mouse, 
 at the return of the little animal, and they are now better 
 friends than ever. 
 
 A most notable story seems attached to the cat (a slate 
 color) , who it seems formerly belonged to some ship's captain. 
 Far away in mid-ocean, on a slender raft, this same cat was 
 picked up by some humane sailor, and brought to Boston. 
 Not a vestige of a living being was found on the raft ; the 
 cat was the only occupant ; where from, and how long she 
 had been there, is a mystery. It may be she resembles 
 Capt. Marryatt's " Snarleyow, the dog fiend," for her reputa- 
 tion at times of vicious temper, in biting and scratching, is 
 proverbial ; yet to that helpless mouse at her mere} 7 she was 
 kind and forbearing, though her courage in killing rats con- 
 tinues as vigilant as ever, in protecting her master's property. 
 
PART II. 
 
 Tour through Canada. 
 
 " As one who looks on landscapes beautiful 
 Will ieel their spirit all his soul pervade ; 
 Even as the heart grows stiller by the lull 
 Of falling waters, when the winds are laid.*' 
 
 Having long felt a desire to visit a portion of the Canadas, 
 we left the city of Boston for Burlington,' passing through 
 Fitchburg, Concord, and numerous other cities and towns on 
 our wa} r to New Hampshire, amidst most beautiful woodland 
 and wild, natural beauty. Vermont, with her chain of snow- 
 clad mountains, whose summits seem to pierce the sky. is a 
 country presenting scenery of a most romantic ami sublime 
 character. Some of my readers may be acquainted with the 
 story of the White Mountain Notch, where an entire family 
 of nine persons were buried some years ago, under a land- 
 slide from the mountains. On visiting the scene of this 
 catastrophe with a party of gentlemen, we could not help a 
 feeling of awe at beholding the air of desolation that pre- 
 vailed throughout the valley, and especially about the little 
 farmhouse, once occupied by the death-doomed family of the 
 Willeys. After partaking of some cake and wine at an 
 adjacent hotel, our attendant blew a blast on a tin horn, the 
 sound of which immediately wakened up the echoes from the 
 farther side of the mountain. One of our party remarked 
 that the destruction of the Willey family was a dreadful visi- 
 tation. "Yes, sir," said our guide, -'that was a pretty 
 solium accident." 
 
 On reaching Burlington, we crossed Lake Champlain in a 
 steamboat, and truly, after the eternal din, racket, and dust 
 of the railway travelling, a quiet, easy passage over the 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 135 
 
 smooth water was a most agreeable change. American river 
 steamboats, as the reader is aware, have a raised or upper 
 deck, to serve as a promenade for passengers, and command- 
 ing a fine view of the scenery through the chain of lakes ; so 
 that passing a calm evening on deck, while traversing these 
 waters, is a treat by no means to be despised. We took tea 
 on board, and found the evening meal very refreshing, after 
 the heat, dust, and travel of a long day's journey. We 
 landed at Plattsburg, where we slept ; as much, at least, as 
 the mosquitoes would let us ; and early next morning once 
 more embarked and steamed across another portion of the 
 lake to Rouse's Point, at which, being a frontier town of 
 Canada, a custom house officer examined our baggage. 
 Thence we proceeded by railway, passing at a rapid rate 
 numerous French-looking towns and villages, reaching at last 
 the south bank of the river St. Lawrence, opposite Montreal, 
 to which city we crossed over. 
 
 On arriving at this, the chief commercial town of Lower 
 Canada, we were greatly amused to hear the scores of hack- 
 drivers bawling and shouting out, with the power of so many 
 Stentors, the names of the different hotels ; while the police- 
 men stood quietly looking on, with a dejected air, as if they 
 but ill relished their occupations. Our party engaged rooms 
 at one of the best hotels, and then sauntered out to see the 
 city of Montreal. The public buildings are not very num- 
 erous, the leading edifices being the Roman Catholic cathe- 
 dral, the English cathedral church, with its lofty spire, a 
 handsome, commodious post-office, City Hall, etc. Montreal 
 has several large market-houses, but one cannot say that the 
 goods exposed in them looked very tempting, by the thou- 
 sands of flies and insects that hovered around and settled on 
 the wares. The weather, however, was so oppressively hot, 
 that going out in mid-day was almost impossible. 
 
 Montreal Carnival Week, January, 1885. 
 
 As a slight digression in the season's calendar, we might 
 say that the Ice Carnival, which is now quite an established 
 institution in Montreal, is quite in contrast, as regarding 
 temperature, to summer travelling. The winter celebration 
 
136 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 and Carnival for 1885 was brought to a close Jan. 31, so far 
 as the official programme was concerned, by a liberal display 
 of fireworks and colored lights at the Ice Palace. The gay* 
 eties, however, were not yet over, for many visitors remained 
 in the city, who found it hard to tear themselves away from 
 the very pleasant associations they had formed during the 
 week. The palace of ice still stood, and would stand for 
 weeks to come ; the snow-shoers still went on their merry 
 tramps, and the toboggan hills were in their glory. The next 
 few weeks, in fact, were the very best time in which to enjoy 
 Montreal's out-door attractions, as most of the crowd will be 
 gone, and the bustle and excitement will have subsided. 
 The Carnival of 1885 has been very successful ; the visitors 
 were more pleased with the grand wintry sight of the Ice 
 Palace than usual, and the long procession of snow-shoers, 
 skaters, sleighing parties, military attacking and repulsing 
 companies were perfect in their arrangements, and there has 
 been less extortion this year. It is estimated that fifty 
 thousand persons have visited Montreal during the Carnival 
 week ; and as tiny have been accommodated comfortably, it 
 is safe to assume that this recreative sport is growing in 
 favor, and becoming popular ; and it also seems to indicate 
 that the authorities at Montreal are getting experienced in 
 handling her great winter festival of Ice Carnival amuse- 
 ments. 
 
 Down the St. Lawrence to Quebec. 
 
 The tourist when in Canada should take one of the num- 
 erous steamers, say from Montreal, and sail down the superb 
 St. Lawrence River to Quebec, the distance being about one 
 hundred and eighty miles. The interest of the trip is often 
 enhanced by the frequent falling in with the huge floating 
 timber-fields of the lumberers (trading from up the country 
 down to Quebec), who, after collecting the logs cut from the 
 forests, at the mouths of the various rivers flowing into the 
 great lake, form them into immense rafts, but capable of 
 division and subdivision, to allow of their passage through 
 rivers and down the rapids and sloping aqueducts, called 
 slides, common on the St. Lawrence between Lake Erie and 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 137 
 
 Quebec. These rafts have on them sometimes whole fam- 
 ilies, with their bedding and cooking utensils, by means of 
 which they make themselves as comfortable as if they were 
 at home. It is a curious life of hardship and adventure that 
 these Canadian boatmen lead ; and yet they seem always 
 merry and light-hearted ; chorusing, as we passed them, their 
 wild 
 
 " Hi oh ! boatmen row, 
 Singing down the river Ohio! " 
 
 and capering about as if they had never known an hour of 
 trouble. We may add, that at night they always burn 
 beacon-fires on board these rafts, as otherwise they would 
 stand a chance of being run down by one of the numerous 
 steamers passing. 
 
 Quebec. 
 
 Quebec is situated on a promontory terminated by Cape 
 Diamond, at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and St. 
 Charles rivers. The approach to it down the river is ex- 
 tremely beautiful, — the rocky heights on either side, the 
 quantities of shipping riding at anchor, the view of the lower 
 town under the cliffs, and the immense masses of timber 
 logs, partly aground, partly floating in the stream, all con- 
 tributing to give a diversified aspect ; while high above, 
 elevated three hundred and fifty feet above the river, bris- 
 tling with cannon, rises the citadel, which has not inaptly been 
 termed the " Gibraltar of the New World." The soldiers of 
 the garrison looked like healthy, hardy fellows, and on the 
 writer mentioning the severity of the Canadian winters, the 
 guide in attendance said, "We do not mind it; we have to 
 keep the court-yard clear of snow, which gives us plenty of 
 work, and circulates the blood in our veins, and then on the 
 long, dark evenings we have a bit of a dance with our com- 
 rades' wives and daughters." 
 
 The obelisk, erected by Lord Dalhousie in the castle gar- 
 den, commemorates the death of the gallant English and 
 French generals, Wolfe and Montcalm, both of whom fell in 
 the memorable battle on the Heights of Abraham, Sept. 13, 
 
138 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 1759 ; a battle which resulted in the total annihilation of the 
 French power in Canada. 
 
 A little below the Heights, close by the residence and 
 offices of the governor-general, is a handsome terrace, which 
 forms the fashionable promenade of Quebec. 
 
 The city is divided into Upper and Lower Town ; the 
 former on the summit of the promontory, the latter on the 
 shore beneath ; besides which, there are two suburbs, those 
 of St. John and St. Roche, where the streets and houses are 
 much handsomer and more regularly built. The houses in 
 the Upper Town are mostly stone, and some built of brick. 
 The old or Lower Town has narrow, dirty, and in many 
 parts steep streets, and buildings of inferior dimensions ; 
 nevertheless, here is the great seat of business, and the river 
 banks are lined with warehouses and wharves, facilitating 
 the lading and unlading of the shipping. 
 
 Return up the St. Lawrence. 
 
 After a refreshing night's rest at one of the comfortable 
 hotels, where the viands were excellent, particularly the 
 salmon, we bid adieu to Quebec, and once more traversed 
 the noble St. Lawrence. Having resolved to visit Upper 
 Canada, we purchased a through ticket to Niagara Falls, by 
 way of the Lachine Rapids. Some Indians were on board 
 (with their interpreter), most of whom were young men, 
 finely formed, but with repulsive countenances. They had 
 with them a considerable quantity of skins, being in the em- 
 ploy of the Hudson Bay Company as trappers. 
 
 The steamer that received us was a perfect little palace, 
 having a superbly furnished saloon, with velvet chairs and 
 sofas, magnificent pier-glasses, piano, harp, etc., and a well- 
 appointed library of books, newspapers, and magazines ; 
 everything, in short, that the most fastidious traveller could 
 desire. The gentlemanly captain, who headed the well-fur- 
 nished table, played the host with a dignified ease quite 
 pleasant to witness. 
 
 As we are now passing upwards towards Niagara, some 
 notice will naturally be expected of the rapids, so character- 
 istic of the navigation of the St. Lawrence. Thev come 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 139 
 
 down with such violence, indeed, that some of the worst can- 
 not be overcome by powerful steamers, except with the aid 
 of locks. It is a tedious process, this ; we were fully six 
 hours in getting through eight locks, which we had to pass 
 in the twelve miles that these rapids extend. To witness 
 the steamboats passing down the rapids of St. Lawrence 
 River, to nervous persons is very bewildering, the locomo- 
 tion almost exceeding the rate of railway travelling ; but 
 the quick-sighted, experienced pilots steer their vessels won- 
 derfully well and safely through the numerous snags (or 
 stems and branches of trees entangled in the stream channel) 
 and the many strong and conflicting currents that meet on 
 these waters. 
 
 As we journey along in our vast floating hotel, let us 
 glance around on our " conijxxgnons de voyage." A miscel" 
 laneous group, indeed, are they ; of every class, from the 
 grazier, lumber dealer, commercial man, and tourist, to 
 ladies and gentlemen from the Canadas and United States, 
 in the mere pursuit of pleasure. Various were the discus- 
 sions of the topics of passing events, which would often lead 
 to high words, and occasionally continue so long that chilly 
 night, far in advance, would warn the debaters to retire to 
 their state-rooms. The Canadians, we found, as a rule, very 
 courteous and intelligent in their explanations to us respect- 
 ing the agriculture, commerce, and social habits of their 
 country. 
 
 Lake Ontario ; its Cities and its Thousand Islands. 
 
 "And while the vessel swiftly flies 
 Against the stream — direct his eyes 
 To rest on beauties which abound, 
 The rapid river's hanks around." 
 
 We now entered the beautiful, smooth, and glassy-watered 
 Lake Ontario, the most easterly and least elevated of the 
 great Canadian lakes, though still about two hundred and 
 thirty feet above the tide level of the St. Lawrence. It is 
 about one hundred and seventy niil£s long, and near its cen- 
 tre about seventy miles broad ; while its depth is so aston- 
 ishing as somewhat to exceed eighty fathoms, or four hun- 
 
140 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 dred and eighty feet ; twenty feet more than the height of the 
 cross of St. Peter's at Rome ! The sunsets on this magnifi- 
 cent sheet of water were extremely beautiful ; the shape of 
 the streaks was most peculiar, and the various-tinted colors, 
 blending one with another, gave the effect of a splendid trans- 
 parency. The hike is constantly traversed by brigs, scows, 
 and schooners, and by large steamers plying between Toronto 
 and Kingston in Canada, and Genesee, Oswego, and Sack- 
 ett's Harbor in the United States. Its banks are in general 
 level and mostly covered with wood, though now variegated 
 by increased cultivation. On the Canadian side, in particu- 
 lar, the soil is of remarkable fertility, owing to the rotten 
 stumps and clearings of decayed branches and dead leaves 
 from the forests, which combine to form a black, vegetable 
 mould or loam, of profuse richness. 
 
 In traversing Lake Ontario, we passed within sight of 
 Brockville, and we also steamed through the group of the far- 
 famed Thousand Islands, which extend in clusters for some 
 miles, furnishing a series of magnificent views — one suc- 
 ceeding another, and keeping the eye constantly engaged in 
 gazing on the rich, variegated verdure and beautiful wood- 
 lands, with which most of them are covered. The steamboat 
 companies always arrange to pass them b} r daylight, so that 
 travellers need not fear disappointment. 
 
 An anecdote is told in connection with these islands, of a 
 gentleman, who having engaged in the Canadian rebellion, 
 had to conceal himself here from the troops sent after him, 
 under the late Gen. Worth ; and during his long concealment 
 he was regularly supp'ied with provisions by his heroic 
 daughter Kate, who visited him in her canoe, and has 
 acquired the name of the "Queen of the Thousand Islands." 
 
 On arriving at Kingston, we changed steamers for Toronto. 
 The harbor is excellent, having water deep enough for large 
 vessels to lie close to the shore, and attached to it is a con- 
 siderable naval dockyard. In fact, Kingston is quite a gar- 
 risoned town, and has a stronghold named " Fort Heury," 
 and several companies of well-disciplined British troops in 
 its citadel. 
 
 Embarking on another steamer, we traversed about one 
 hundred and forty miles of varied river and land scenery, 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 141 
 
 reached the city of Toronto, and entered the deep, circular 
 bay ; this section of the trip taking about sixteen hours. We 
 had very pleasant company on board, including some good 
 lady singers and performers on the pianoforte. Toronto is, 
 on the whole, a handsome city 7 ; the streets are regularly laid 
 out, and the houses built mostly of stone. 
 
 We again disembarked, to proceed further westward, in 
 another steamer, for Lewistou, on the Niagara River, just 
 below the Falls, which town we reached in a few hours, and 
 there found coaches awaiting our arrival to convey us to the 
 railroad depot, from which a short trip b} - the cars brought 
 us within sound of the Cataract, while we could occasionally 
 see the spray rising like a white mist in the atmosphere. 
 
 Niagara Falls. 
 
 As respects the Falls, so many persons have written, and 
 so eloquently, on this wonder of Nature, that one almost 
 despairs of any attempt at description ; yet as no two 
 writers have ever described them precisely alike, we shall 
 humbly endeavor to record our impressions on viewing this 
 stupendous spectacle. 
 
 On first looking at Niagara Falls, one cannot avoid a feel- 
 ing that we are here within the precincts of God's holy work, 
 the glorious temple of the Great Living Spirit ; and the 
 thought immediately following is — how insignificant, in 
 sight of such a work of the Divine Architect, is man and 
 all man's undertakings ! The deafening roar of the falling 
 waters seemed to resolve itself into steady, stately sounds 
 of majestic music, louder, grander, and more imposing than 
 could have been elicited from all the organs and orchestras 
 in the world. Of the beauteous spray, "one could fill many 
 pages of description, so truly and poetically sublime does it 
 appear, as it rises like a pure white cloud of filmy vapor and 
 assumes a variety of fantastic shapes, ascending high into 
 the atmosphere, every now and tlien receiving the most 
 lovely and varied tints, as it met the sun's rays. 
 
 Cold indeed must the person be, who can gaze on this sub- 
 lime and stupendous cataract without being awestruck by 
 its magnificence, and gigantic, indescribable power. Nay, 
 
142 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 even when we see the wondrous velocity of the rapids imme- 
 diately above the Falls, we shrink with apprehension at the 
 thought how soon these waters are to rush down the mighty 
 chasm, and, in part, be dispersed in mist. 
 
 Niagara often presents a variety of aspects : for at one 
 time we ma}* see it enveloped, as it were, in, and partly 
 hidden by, the beauteous spray ; a moment after, it will shine 
 forth, fully revealed in the sunlight ; and again appearing 
 covered with a dense intensity of gloom that gives it the 
 semblance of a wild, tempest-beaten sea. In short, no one 
 can look with indifference on this majestic scene, no one turn 
 from it, without a feeling of gratitude that he has been per- 
 mitted silently to worship his Creator in this sublime temple 
 of the Almighty power. 
 
 As some of my readers, however, may prefer positive 
 facts to moral reflections, we shall here subjoin a few par- 
 ticulars which will give some practical idea of the stupen- 
 dous grandeur of these Falls. The Niagara River issuer 
 from the eastern extremity of Lake Erie, and after forming 
 several islands, one of them twelve miles in length, and pur- 
 suing a quite smooth course of about thirty-four miles, is 
 first propelled over a succession of rapids, having a descent 
 of fifty feet in half a mile, and is then precipitated over the 
 Falls, which are divided by an island about five hundred 
 yards broad, perched in the very centre of the cataract, in 
 two distinct sheets of water, one of which, on the Canadian 
 side, called, from its concave shape, the Horseshoe Fall, is 
 six hundred yards wide, and one hundred and fifty-eight feet 
 deep ; while the American Fall, on the opposite side, is 
 about two hundred yards wide, and one hundred and sixty- 
 four feet deep ; so that the entire breadth of the river, from 
 shore to shore, is about one thousand four hundred yards ; 
 and the quantity of water hourly precipitated into the chasm 
 beneath has been calculated at 11,524,400 tons. 
 
 The depth of the water, be it understood, is much greater 
 on the Canadian than on the American side ; and hence, 
 while the scarcely hidden limestone rocks below the Ameri- 
 can Fall cause the flood to be broken into foam, the deep- 
 green hue of the billows beneath the Horseshoe Fall is but 
 slightly changed by the crests of foam rising above them. 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 143 
 
 Lastly, the waters, immediately after their union below the 
 cataract, are again contracted into a stream not more than 
 one hundred and sixty yards wide, rushing through a deep 
 trench, bounded by perpendicular, rocky walls, which have 
 been cut by the action of the waters during the lapse of 
 many centuries. 
 
 Some years ago, the narrator, on visiting Niagara, had 
 the curiosity of a young man to inspect the passageway 
 under the Horseshoe Fall. We believe no visitors are allowed 
 down there now, as it is fast closing up, and considered dan- 
 gerous to explore. A spiral staircase once conducted the 
 tourists under the Fall ; flannel and rubber suits were pro- 
 vided us by the guides in attendance ; much care had to be 
 taken, for it was attended with some danger, owing to the 
 slipperiness of the rocky ground, from the effects of the 
 spray, and an unlucky false step would precipitate one into 
 the whirling gulf beneath. We were six in number, and the 
 guide directed us to hold one another's hands and face the 
 rock, having our backs to the immense body of the cataract. 
 We had not advanced far, before our breathing became diffi- 
 cult and painful, from the rarefaction of the atmosphere, 
 and though the falling water in some parts drenched us to 
 the skin, still we were in a profuse perspiration. 
 
 We walked very slowly sideways for some distance, till at 
 length one of our party was reported to be fainting (not the 
 writer), whereupon the guide instantly called upon us, with 
 stentorian lungs (barely heard, owing to the roar of the 
 cataract), to halt, and return sideways, as we had advanced 
 without turning round. It was a curious and bewildering 
 sensation, being directly under so many thousand tons of 
 water ; and when we gave a confused and timid glance up- 
 wards, we had a strange and mingled fear and reverence, at 
 beholding the mighty watery avalanche. The rushing sound 
 of the Horseshoe Fall is indeed most terrific, when heard in 
 close proximity to it ; and when we emerged from the nar- 
 row opening, we felt truly thankful, in spite of all the 
 majesty of the spectacle, that we had escaped unharmed from 
 under the " Horseshoe." 
 
 As the best, and indeed only simultaneous, view of both 
 the Falls is to be had from about three hundred yards on the 
 
144 RAMBLES IX AMERICA. 
 
 river below them, a stout little steamer, called " The Maid 
 of the Mist," used to be brought into requisition, during the 
 season of summer, to carry passengers between the Suspen- 
 sion Bridge and the Falls. A trip this way cauuot fail of 
 proving interesting, even to those least affected by the sub- 
 limities of Nature. 
 
 After a short ride of about two miles, stemming the rapid 
 current, we at length came in full view of the American Falls ; 
 after which we were boldly steered to the very mouth of the 
 Horseshoe Cataract ; whence, after satisfying our curiosity, 
 we emerged from the enveloping rainbow-gilded spray, and 
 then the pilot skilfully steered us back on our homeward 
 way. The magnificence of the scene, as the gallant little 
 steamer passed through the filmy vapor floating around us, 
 can only be appreciated by those who have witnessed its 
 grandeur. Water-proof dresses are provided on board for 
 the passengers, and many a merry laugh rings from the young 
 men and maidens, as they survey one another in their india- 
 rubber disguises. 
 
 The Niagara Suspension Bridge. 
 
 This stupendous and wonderful structure, which spans the 
 rock-enclosed river about two miles below the Falls, was the 
 work of the well-known American engineer, Mr. .1. A. 
 Roebling. of Trenton, N. .1. (of the Fast River big bridge 
 tame, New York). It is suspended by wire ropes, forming 
 a single span of eight hundred feet, and has two floors, the 
 lower one for the ordinary traffic of horses and teams, also 
 foot passengers; that above for railway trains. The main 
 cables, to which Ihe wire ropes are secured, are fastened by 
 massive iron chains, sunk from twenty to thirty feet into the 
 native rock, and rest on cast-iron saddles, placed on the tops 
 of the towers on either side. These cables, of course, are 
 extremely strong, for it is no uncommon occurrence to see a 
 train of heavily loaded freight cars, covering the entire 
 bridge from end to end. To construct any other kind of 
 bridge over this deep and rapid stream would have been 
 almost impossible, and the enterprise was regarded as a 
 complete engineering triumph. 
 
KAMBLKS IN AMKRKJA.. 145 
 
 Casualties at Niagara Falls. 
 
 One day, during our visit, glancing over the theu wooden 
 bridge which overlooked the Horseshoe Fall, a boatman 
 came up to the writer and observed: "Could this bridge 
 speak, what fearful tales it might tell ! I well remember," 
 said he, " a part}*, consisting of a gentleman, his wife, and 
 little daughter, with a male friend, who were looking over 
 this bridge, as you are now. Well, sir, this friend, in the 
 exuberance of his delight at the splendid sight of the waters, 
 caught up the little girl, saying jestingly, ' I will throw you 
 over' ; when the child, startled by the sudden act, leaped out 
 of his arms into the whirling rapids beneath. Instantly, the 
 young man, whose recklessness had caused the accident, 
 jumped into the rushing tide with the intention of saving 
 her, but in vain — they were both precipitated over the 
 Horseshoe Fall. The body of the girl was found, with the 
 head frightfully crushed between two rocks, about a couple 
 of miles below the cataract. The young man's bod}" was 
 never found. Alas, sir," said the tender-hearted fellow, 
 " this calamity shed a melancholy gloom for weeks over the 
 neighborhood " 
 
 " And well it might," thought the writer. The sufferings 
 of the parents must have been beyond expression, when they 
 beheld their darling child whirled about in the eddies of the 
 terrible rapids, and after giving, perhaps, one last look, and 
 uttering one half-stifled death-scream, was borne over the 
 cataract, and parted from them forever. Yet not forever, 
 let us hope ; her sainted soul doubtless awaits in heaven a 
 glad reunion with those from whom she was, by so dreadful 
 a visitation, severed on earth. 
 
 Farewell to Niagara Falls. 
 
 The time which we had resolved to enjoy the wild glories 
 of Niagara having come to a close, we took a last, lingering, 
 fond, farewell look at its fascinating waters, and thought of 
 those beautiful words of Charles Mackay : — 
 
 •'Mighty Niagara, whose voire we hear . 
 Bursting in thunder, loud, sublime, and clear. 
 
146 KAMBLES IX AMERICA. 
 
 Thy glorious waters, like an ocean burled 
 From the blue heaven to overflow the world, 
 Fill us with wonder, as we stand afar, 
 Humbled to think how small and mean we are; 
 And as they rush, and loam, and burst, and roll, 
 They speak high language to the awe-struck soul.'' 
 
 Captain Webb's fate at Niagara. 
 
 In the death of this noted diver and swimmer, the \ 
 has lost one of its most rashly brave men. The venturesome 
 hero, who buffeted his weary way across the English ( 
 nel to the French coast, and accomplished many other 
 at last falls an easy victim to the vast rapids of America's 
 rushing waters. It almost seems as if poor Webb became 
 like some of the famed generals of old, who wept because 
 there were no more worlds to conquer; and our brave swim- 
 mer and rescuer of lives, after doing unheard-of trials of 
 strength and endurance in the water, must needs try to wage 
 war against the great rapids and whirlpools of Niagara. 
 The death-plunge was made in duly, 1883, before a small 
 number of incredulous spectators; the deed seemed to be 
 done in defiance of railway companies and hotel-kee 
 who tauntingly said that Capt. Webb did not mean what he 
 proposed doing. The finding of the body, mutilated and 
 bruised though it was, became a matter of solace to the be- 
 reaved wife, and a source of great satisfaction to the de- 
 ceased man's friends, as reports began to be circulated of 
 the adventurer's landing and hiding somewhere, for a mone- 
 tary sensation. 
 
 Since the death of Capt. Webb, many foolhardy leaps 
 and plunges in the rapids of Niagara have been attempted. 
 with various results; the most notable of all, up to the 
 present date, September, 188!), — and said to eclipse all the 
 others, — were Graham in his barrel and Steve Brodie in his 
 rubber suit, both of whom claim to have gone over the 
 Horseshoe Fall, and were picked out of the seething waters 
 in an insensible condition. 
 
 After leaving Niagara Falls and its attractions, we pro- 
 ceeded by the New York & Erie Railway (Albany brand , 
 eastward. The first and largest place at which we stoppe ; . 
 on our way to Albany, was Buffalo, a busy lake port and 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 147 
 
 commercial entrepot, with a large population and vast, in- 
 creasing trade ; and we afterwards passed through Roches- 
 ter, Syracuse, Rome, and many other towns, arriving at 
 Albany in the forenoon. Albany, as most of my readers 
 know, is the capital of the State of New York, and one of 
 the oldest settled cities in the Union. It stauds on very 
 uneven ground, rising from the right bank of the Hudson to 
 the height of more than two hundred feet, and is, on the 
 whole, a well-built city, having, amoug other public edifices, 
 a Capitol, at the top of the principal street, and near it the 
 City Hall and State Hall, the first and last of which are the 
 seats of the legislative and executive authorities of the 
 State of New York. The railway and Hudson River traffic 
 between Albany and New York City' is very extensive. 
 
 Saratoga, and its Visitors. 
 
 To have been so near Saratoga, and yet not visit it, would 
 be like presenting the play of lt Hamlet," omitting the 
 character of the royal Dane, especially as it was the very 
 height of the fashionable season. A pleasant ride of some 
 thirty miles took us to the place, which is charmingly situated 
 in a champaign country, skirted by hills, intersected by 
 streams and lakes, and presenting occasionally some very 
 beautiful, romantic scenery. 
 
 Historically, Saratoga claims an interest as being the place 
 near which, during the Revolutionary War, Gen. Burgovne 
 and his troops were obliged (Oct. 17, 1777) to surrender to 
 Gen. Gates, the American commander. Its present celebrity 
 and popularity are clue to the saline and chalybeate springs 
 in the vale just below the town, the waters of which are in 
 high repute, both for renovating the over-taxed or inert sys- 
 tem and curing many descriptions of inveterate disease. 
 
 Fine hotels, with beautiful attached gardens, and numer- 
 ous excellent boarding-houses are to be found here. From 
 July to September a living stream of persons visit here in the 
 season, including many of the elite of wealth, fashion, and 
 beauty, from every part of the Union, besides many of every 
 grade of rank and variety of character. In fact, at Saratoga 
 the traA'eller may see the strangely characteristic and strongly 
 
148 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 contrasted features of the whole country brought before hiui 
 at a single view, and study the varying characters of differ- 
 ent States under singularly advantageous conditions. We 
 question, however, whether any other continent could pro- 
 duce a larger assemblage of well-dressed and polite-mannered 
 men, or a brighter array of feminine beauty, than the salons 
 and gardens of Saratoga. The ladies of the South, like their 
 sisters of the North, are in most part celebrated for their 
 symmetry of form and regularity of features. 
 
 Return to New York, down the Hudson. 
 
 On our return to Albany, we took passage in one of those 
 fine floating palaces, propelled by steam, which navigate the 
 Hudson River, between that city and New York. This river, 
 called " The Rhine of America," is constantly traversed by 
 steam vessels, and tugs conveying small craft. Its length 
 up to Troy (six miles above Albany) is one hundred and fifty 
 miles. Its breadth, near Albany, is rather less than a mile ; 
 but below the heights, called '"The Palisades." it widens 
 considerably, and is nearly three miles wide at its entrance 
 into New York harbor. As for its scenery, nothing will sur- 
 pass the beauty of the landscapes presenting themselves on 
 either side of the banks — lofty, bold-looking mountains here ; 
 round, well-wooded hills there ; and anon fertile valleys 
 stretching for miles upon miles on either side of the stream. 
 In fact, the eye never tires of such charming prospects as 
 these. Hither retire the wealthy, the learned, and the fash- 
 ionable of America; nor can we conceive a more delightful 
 abode than one of those elegant and picturesque villas which 
 dot its banks. 
 
 The calm retirement and the sylvan beauties of this 
 romantic neighborhood make it indeed a most welcome re- 
 treat, equally for the retired, wealthy citizen, the successful 
 poet, and the true lover of Nature ; besides, the constant 
 passing up and down of the many steamboats and shipping 
 gives a liveliness that adds not a little t<> the charms of this 
 beautiful river. 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 149 
 
 New York Revisited. 
 
 In the earlier sojourn of the narrator to the Empire City, 
 many years ago, New York was a more primitive city than 
 at the present time. To explain the rapid growth of this 
 bewildering metropolis of 1,700,000 souls (in the census of 
 1890) would certainly fill a volume of its own ; and as many 
 competent writers have already graphically described the 
 emporium of all nationalities, in its progress, suffice it to say, 
 we shall briefly confine ourselves to what came immediately 
 under our notice, between the periods of the first and second 
 visits to this country. The palatial steamers plying from 
 Fall River through the Sound to New York are so well known 
 that a description is superfluous, except, as it may be, on a 
 crowded evening, such as the writer of these sketches wit- 
 nessed, New-Year's Day of 1884, when friends were returning 
 to their city homes, after visiting their country cousins in 
 New England. All the state-rooms wei-e sold, days before 
 sailing ; consequently, sleeping-berths were in great demand ; 
 the remainder of the passengers had to lie on mattresses 
 on the saloon floor, or quietly cloze in arm-chairs and lounges 
 all night. Not being able to get a state-room, a berth was 
 secured in time, the middle one of a tier of three. A tired 
 man can congratulate himself, on finding a resting place at 
 last ; soon, however, a climbing sound was heard, of a per- 
 son reaching the upper berth ; and as the unwieldy body 
 attempted to lie down, the narrator's alarm began, and sleep 
 was almost out of the question ; for every time the heavy, 
 fleshy man in the upper sleeping compartment moved rest- 
 lessly, in changing his position, the lath supports of the 
 narrow bed strained, bulged, and bent, as if the big creature's 
 weight would assuredly break down the couch on the alarmed 
 sleeper below. However, drowsiness overcame the fidgety 
 passenger at last, the lath slats returned to their proper 
 place, and the danger was over. 
 
 But as the noise of the machinery, and the smell of the 
 supper and breakfast preparations are not very conducive to 
 sleep, weary as one was, we thought it best to arise at early 
 morn and made for the deck, stepping over sleeping way- 
 farers in the saloon. We may add, that a trip in the mag- 
 
150 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 nificeut palace steamer " Pilgrim," in the summer time, is 
 enjoyable ; the huge vessel is colossal iu size, elegaut in all 
 its appointments, and with electric lights everywhere, state- 
 rooms included. The cost of this magnificent vessel must 
 have been immense. The band of the steamer discourses 
 sweet sounds on the balmy air, those pleasant evenings in 
 the season. 
 
 To return to our rami ties. On gaining the promenade 
 deck, and fresh, pure air and breeze, we found we were 
 approaching near " Hell Gate," a well-known rocky section 
 of the East River, the danger of which is every year becom- 
 ing less, by the skilful engineering of blasting the rocky beds 
 and widening the channel of this great commercial river high- 
 way. .Soon innumerable lamps began to appear in the long 
 streets near the river's edge, most of which were the renowned 
 electric lights, some of the wharves having the same power- 
 ful luminaries ; and when we sailed past Castle Garden a, 
 perfect blaze of electric orbs appeared iu circle, all around 
 the landing stages connecting therewith ; the sight of this 
 modern innovation of years ago seems to strike a beholder 
 very much. The thronged thoroughfares, Broadway and 
 Bowery, and other prominent business streets, share their 
 appreciation of this wonderful luminary of modern times ; all 
 is bright, of a steely, sepulchral look, where light is needed, 
 while the side avenues are almost in darkness, from the 
 reflected old style of gas and oil lamps, the contrast being 
 very noticeable. All the principal public buildings, large 
 hotels, and newly erected theatres, utilize, where they can, 
 this modern light of electricity. 
 
 In company with friends, we spent many pleasant hours 
 at the first-rate performances given at Union Square, Mad- 
 ison Square, Standard, and Wallack's theatres, while the 
 better class of instrumental music-halls seem to try to outdo 
 each other in their really excellent concerts and decorative 
 buildings of amusement. 
 
 While on the subject of opera, Col. Mapleson has the last 
 few years clone much at the Academy of Music and else- 
 where for the better elevation of singing and operatic instru- 
 mental performances. Such a brilliant array of names of 
 first-class singers as Madames Marimou, Gerster, Marie 
 
GAMBLES IN AMERICA. 151 
 
 Roze, Annie Cary, Minnie Hauk, Patti, Nilsson, Leblache, 
 Emma Nevada, Scalchi, Fursch-Madi, etc, with Signors 
 Campanini, Ravelli, Nicolini, Gassier, G-iannini, Serbolini, 
 
 and man}* other talented artists, added to which a full and 
 efficient chorus and splendid band of nearly one hundred 
 instrumental performers, under the able leadership of the 
 conductor, Sig. Arditi, — speaks volumes for the rich treat 
 of classical operatic music the New Yorkers and other large 
 cities of the Union were blessed with, during the four winter 
 seasons. Col. Mapleson kept his word with the directors of 
 the Academy of Music, when he said he would bring the 
 best available talent in the world to this country; the truly 
 tine voices of the artists have been heard to the echo by 
 many thousands of all classes, who nightly testified their 
 appreciation of these operatic performances, and justified by 
 their plaudits the success of the enterprise. 
 
 The new innovations of modern times to an absentee from 
 New York are the elevated railroads ; trains drawn by smart 
 little engines run every few minutes throughout the day, and 
 on Third Avenue all night. The rush and turmoil of this 
 elevated transit is bewildering to a non-resident of a large 
 and bustling city ; passengers can scarcely get in or out of 
 cars with safety, when the signal is given, and the pant- 
 ing locomotive is off again, a few blocks further, to the 
 next station ; in fact, it is all commencing and stopping. 
 The system of air brakes must be very forcible, for the 
 whole of the cars will be in full motion, one moment, then as 
 suddenly come to a dead halt. Some sad and fatal accidents 
 happen occasionally through this indiscriminate hurry and 
 bustle. Great as the conveniences are to the suburban resi- 
 dents, one almost questions whether the remedy is not 
 worse than the disease, when we see really fine properties 
 in a manner sacrificed by the near proximity of the unsightly, 
 elevated stanchion roads ; and then the horrid noise, night 
 and day, of everlasting, passing trains ; added to which, the 
 red-hot cinders occasionally dropping down on the sidewalks, 
 as it is on the Bowery elevated railway, is enough to sicken 
 some people of modern improvements. 
 
 The Sixth Avenue elevated railway takes the traveller 
 from the Battery, down town, to 155th Street, up town, for 
 
152 RAMBLES IX AMERICA. 
 
 the fare of five cents. Having a call to make up town, we 
 went the whole extent of the Sixth Avenue line of elevated 
 cars to 155th Street, then changed to another company's 
 cars across the bridge over the Harlem River. On alighting 
 at the depot of High Bridge, we walked up the steep incline 
 on to the high level of the bridge, from the summit of which 
 we had an uninterrupted view of the still water of the frozen 
 river for miles, as it lay, calm and still, in its icy bed ; for it 
 was January, 1883, when everything was frozen far and 
 wide, and the curious stillne>s of all craft, steamers and 
 sloops, embedded, as they were, in the icy embrace of this 
 favorite stream, was peculiar. The contrast of these chilling 
 surroundings on this cold morning was very great, when one 
 remembered having sailed on the Harlem River, the previous 
 Fourth of July, when the tidal stream was literally alive with 
 passenger boats, excursion steamers, sailing craft, etc., of all 
 sizes, and the air resounding with the laughter and joyous- 
 ness of the holiday makers ; but in midwinter, except for 
 the merry sleigh-bells of the distant teams, the stillness and 
 solitude that pervaded this lonely but beautiful locality was 
 almost deathlike. As the poet properly says : — 
 
 " No noise is here, or noiie that hinders thought : 
 The redhreast warhles still, hut is content 
 With slender notes, and more than half suppressed : 
 Pleased with his solitude and flitting light.'' 
 
 East River Suspension Bridge. 
 
 Crossing from New York City to Brooklyn by ferry-boat, 
 the traveller has a fine opportunity of viewing one of the 
 greatest engineering triumphs of the world, — the connecting 
 link between two great and rising cities, by its famed sus- 
 pension bridge. This really stupendous undertaking is a 
 remarkable structure in its great vastness and power. Most 
 visitors to New York have seen this marvel of modern times. 
 
 The big bridge was formally opened on May 24, 1883 (the 
 birthday of Queen Victoria, as it happened), by President 
 Arthur, assisted by Mayor Low, of Brooklyn, Mayor Edson, 
 of New York, Gov. Cleveland, and quite a procession of 
 aldermen, common councilmen, and other civil magnates of 
 both cities who took part in the opening ceremonies. Over 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 153 
 
 a million of people are supposed to have been present on this 
 auspicious day. The original architect and engineer was 
 Mr. John A. Roebling, of Trenton, N. J., who met his death 
 by an accident, and was succeeded by his son, Col. W. A 
 Roebling, who, with a staff of engineers, carried out the 
 colossal project. Thus the day for which Brooklyn and New 
 York had waited so many 3-ears, was fully realized, with 
 every success. The hundreds of thousands of persons who 
 have passed over the bridge from 1883 to 1890 can testif y to 
 the magnificent promenade, driveway, and cable-car road, 
 and the superb panoramic view of East and North rivers, 
 with their ever-moving marine parade of vessels from all 
 climes. In the six years of storm and sunshine the big bridge 
 has stood all tests of weather, a remarkable tribute to the 
 skilful engineering staff. 
 
 As the Enst River suspension bridge becomes a "nine 
 days' wonder," we shall ever remember the pluck and energy 
 of the promoters of this vast work, in the achievement of the 
 truly bold and costly enterprise, who, amidst innumerable 
 obstacles, have conquered forthwith. Fourteen millions of 
 dollars, it is said, the bridge cost, and about eighteen years' 
 time was required for its construction, as the work of the 
 approaches from both sides of the river were of great magni- 
 tude, and the dangerous labor of sinking caissons, building 
 towers, and stretching cables was a consummation of a work 
 the world has seldom seen, for magnitude and for splendid 
 engineering skill, aided by a band of stuuby employees of 
 first-rate courage and daring. The eminent divine. Rev. De 
 Witt Talmnge, has lectured very oratorically of this bridge. 
 
 The three days' celebration in New York, in April, 1889, 
 to commemorate the one hundredth anniversary of the 
 inauguration of Washington as President, will long be 
 remembered by New Yorkers and the myriads of visitors 
 assembled to witness the colossal parade of troops, naval 
 brigades, secret societies, and trades processions of miles in 
 length, taking seven hours to pass a given point. The fes- 
 tivities commenced with a naval review of men-of-war, down 
 to the miniature steam- tug with its shrill whistle, — vessels 
 of all sizes formed in line. President Harrison, assisted by 
 Ex-President Cleveland and Governors of States, all did 
 
154 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 homage of inspection to this pageant and those of following' 
 days. The New York and Brooklyn policemen had an 
 arduous time of it in trying to keep the swaying crowd in 
 order. The decorations of flags and bunting were very pro- 
 fuse all over the city, and the hotel-keepers and others 
 reaped a good harvest during the celebration. It would be 
 a difficult task to calculate the innumerable glasses of lager 
 beer that were consumed on those fatiguing days; but the 
 week's loss of business must have been serious items to many 
 struggling merchants and store-keepers, as trade, except that 
 of eating and drinking, was totally suspended. 
 
 The city of Brooklyn at last census, June, 1890, gives 
 800,000 as its population. 
 
 New York Churches. 
 
 During the writer's stay in 1882 of some twelve mouths in 
 the Empire City, he had full opportunities of visiting the 
 various churches therein. Among so many sacred edifices of 
 every denomination, with their vast array of eloquent preach- 
 ers, it would be invidious to select any special one out of its 
 number as paramount to the others ; suffice it to say, a few 
 words about two or three of the most prominent of the 
 Episcopal and other churches may not prove uninteresting to 
 my readers. 
 
 Trinity Church is a fine old architectural edifice, situated 
 in the lower part of Broadway (a few hundred yards from the 
 magnificent block of buildings, the New York post-office), 
 and presided over by a very able and estimable divine, Dr. 
 Dix. Easter Sunday and Christmas Day are gala times in 
 "• Old Trinity." A sight not easily forgotten is seen here on 
 those particular days of religious rejoicing ; the altar and 
 chancel are literally embedded in flowers and sacred decora- 
 tions ; thousands of well-dressed people crowd up all the 
 aisles, avenues, and approaches, the pews, of course, beiug 
 inconveniently filled at an early hour ; and as the mob of 
 sight-seers sway hither and thither, in their efforts to get a 
 foothold in the edifice, the grand, swelling sound of the mag- 
 nificent organ is heard, and the distant voices of the white- 
 robed choristers chanting from the sacristy, as thev walk in 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 1").") 
 
 procession of twos to their places in the chancel, when the 
 full melody of their fine voices is heard to advantage, accom- 
 panied by the powerful strains of the organ ; it is an occasion 
 of great feeling and religious fervor. The large overflow 
 gathering of worshippers remain patiently in their standing 
 position, listening to the eloquent preaching of the pastor, 
 Dr. Dix. 
 
 Before the morning service commences, the sonorous tones 
 of the fine chime of bells is heard on the above-mentioned 
 days to much advantage, and they pour forth with their iron 
 tongues a glowing melody of sacred song, with much sweet- 
 ness of expression, reminding one of years gone by, when 
 the distant church-bells of old English towns and hamlets 
 used to burst on the biographer's ears, while strolling along 
 the banks of the river Thames, near Oxford or Eton colleges. 
 
 Farther up Broadway, near Union Square, is Grace 
 Church, quite a superior, Episcopalian denomination, very 
 genteel church, and exceedingly English in many of its 
 ways, and most of the congregation are very rich. Grace 
 Church has had several munificent bequests left by the aged 
 members of this edifice, some of whom seem to vie with one 
 another as to how large a sum can be expended on new 
 church vestries and similar enlargements and improvements. 
 Many of the worshippers' carriages and fine horses, richly 
 caparisoned, with the well-clothed attendant coachmen and 
 footmen, in their long overcoats, all obsequious to their rich 
 employers, are thoroughly "London" in the upper classes. 
 Also the driving up to the church doors, with a dashing pair of 
 bays curvetting and prancing, the footman jumps down from 
 the box seat, opens the brougham door, and stands immov- 
 able till his master or mistress disappears out of sight, shuts 
 the door with a bang, rejoins the coachman, who whips up his 
 horses to the neighboring mews of Murray Hill or elsewhere. 
 
 But let us follow the owners of the equipage into the 
 vestibule of Grace Church, where ,e observe the word 
 '• silence " conspicuously placed on the walls of the entrance 
 hall ; and certainly a solemnity seems to reign supreme in 
 this sacred place, with its fine architectural proportions and 
 artistic stained-glass windows, and quite a subdued light 
 within. A choir of four voices, a very superior quartet, 
 
156 RAMBLES IX AMERICA. 
 
 supposed to be as good as any in the State, are here, and the 
 singing of the soprano was indeed splendid ; also the other 
 three singers in their particular parts were equal to any 
 church soloists to be met with. Where there is good sacred 
 singing, one invariably finds excellent organ accompaniment ; 
 such was the case in this place. The rector, Rev. Dr. 
 Henry C. Potter, is well known to New Yorkers, and many 
 others outside of the Empire State, as a gentleman of great 
 eloquence and ability ; his fine intonation and modulation of 
 voice are irresistible ; added to which, his commanding pres- 
 ence, in or out of the pulpit, carries his listeners with him in 
 his brilliant discourses of religious teaching. On Saturday, 
 Oct. 20, 18*3, such an assemblage took place in Grace 
 Church as is seldom witnessed in our plain times of church 
 history, to behold the consecration of the Rev. H. C. Potter 
 to the office of Assistant Bishop of the diocese of New York. 
 The ceremonies were very imposing, and participated in by 
 forty bishops and over six hundred clergymen. Such an 
 array of ecclesiastics was enough to turn the head of the 
 young, newly consecrated Bishop Potter, by the sight of so 
 many surpliced brethren. 
 
 New York Catholic Cathedral. 
 
 Among the many fine church edifices in the metropolis, 
 the lately erected Catholic cathedral is perhaps the finest in 
 America. The architectural beauty of the whole building 
 is almost unsurpassed on this continent ; the expensive and 
 artistic masonry work of figure cutting must have cost im- 
 mense sums of money, while the interior is most gorgeous in 
 design and decoration ; the beautiful arch and groined roof, 
 down to the tesselated pavement, were all in keeping with the 
 sacredness and solemness of the structure. We observed 
 many very fine paintings, some of great size, executed by 
 old and modern artists. The afternoon vespers being about 
 to commence, our party were courteously conducted to a pew, 
 where we listened to a very excellent and sensible sermon 
 by the officiating priest, interspersed by some good singing 
 by the choristers, aided by a band of instrumental musicians 
 and some other singers from the gallery. This cathedral is 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 157 
 
 worthy a visit to the stranger in the city, and also its being 
 situated in one of the leading thoroughfares, up town, and 
 adjacent to Central Park, commends its attractiveness : for 
 the pleasant walks and drives in and around the park 
 are charming in fine, weather. The beautiful green verdure 
 of the grassy lawns is seen to great advantage here, while 
 an inspection of the menagerie of all kinds of animals and 
 birds is also worthy attention. 
 
 New York Confidence Men, and their Victims. 
 
 The writer of these rambles recently having occasion to 
 visit New York, will, as concisely as possible, relate an expe- 
 rience with two confidence men, as a warning to others who 
 may travel around. Though an occasional visitor to New 
 York, yet one's appearance must have attracted these would- 
 be sharpers. On emerging from my hotel, satchel in hand, 
 and passing along City Hall Place, near lower Broadway, a 
 pleasant-spoken, smiling man accosted me, and said, ' ; How 
 do you do, Capt. Shaw? I am so glad to see you," and other 
 fulsome compliments. Now, as I never had the honor of 
 holding the rank of captain, I smiled, and said my name was 
 not Capt. Shaw, and that he was mistaken. The fellow 
 declared he was not mistaken. I indignantly and foolishly 
 fell into his trap, by saying, '"My name is not Shaiv, but 
 Pairpoitit, of New Bedford." Then the stranger was very 
 profuse in his apologies for his mistake, bowed and left 
 me. I had forgotten the encounter, when some quarter of 
 an hour afterwards, in quite another part of the city, a taller 
 stranger rushes up to me, smiling and beaming, calls me by 
 name, shakes hands, and inquires how all were in New Bed- 
 ford, how business was, and that he once lived there, and 
 would I oblige him by taking some samples of cloth to New 
 Bedford to friends of his. As he pleaded so strongly, and 
 seemed so earnest to do business, I finally consented to take 
 the samples ; but lo, he had not them with him ; they were at 
 his office just around the corner! Before I had realized the 
 situation, he had stopped a horse-car and we both entered, 
 as it was raining heavily. My good-natured friend paid the 
 fare for both of us ; and then, as if an inspiration came over 
 
158 KAMBLES IX AMERICA. 
 
 me, I thought rapidly and with some consternation, " I am 
 in the hands of ' confidence men ' ; and once in their clutches 
 in some saloon den, my life will not be worth much, unless 
 I freely give up all my money at the mockery of a game 
 at cards with other confederates of the gang." Quick as 
 thought I returned the ten cents to the fellow (for car ride), 
 who, in a faltering voice, as he apparently saw "his little 
 game was up," asked. "Why pay me?" Rising from my 
 seat and fronting him, I answered, "If you want to know 
 why, I will tell you ; but advise you not to ask a second 
 time." Stopping the car at once, in a loud tone of voice, 
 so that the other passengers could hear, I inquired of the 
 conductor if he knew the man who sat next to me. He 
 answered, " No." " Anyway," I said, " do not let him out 
 for a few moments, for if he follows me, I will have him 
 arrested." I alighted, and pursued my way unmolested, yet 
 with some misgivings of being waylaid by some of the con- 
 fidence thieving crowd. 
 
 I take the liberty of recounting this experience to my 
 readers of an attempt in broad daylight at extortionate rob- 
 bery by a gang of men who, when successful, fatten on their 
 victims by this system of confidence extortion, when in the 
 villains' power. 
 
 A more suave, polite-appearing class is scarcely to be met- 
 with than these scouts of a den of thieves, who infest all 
 large cities, and waylay the unwary. Having travelled ex- 
 tensively, the world over, I do not know how I came almost 
 to fall into their net by giving my real name. As a warning 
 to others who might commit the same error, never hold con- 
 verse in any way with strangers in or on the street, nor be 
 tempted to say who you are : otherwise, ill-usage, drugging, 
 and robbery, or perhaps worse, might be the result from 
 contact with these eyesores of society, who live in laziness 
 all their days, from the pockets of their occasional prey. 
 
 Coney Island, 1882, 1883, 1889. 
 
 This favorite seashore resort, situated a short distance 
 from New York City, differs materially to-day from what it 
 was twenty-live years ago, when quiet family people would 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 159 
 
 journey there for the fine sea bathing and fresh sea breezes. 
 What changes are there now! Certainly, the bathing and 
 breezes remain, but all comfort of seaside quietude is gone 
 forever to those of steady-going habits. 
 
 In the place of a few unassuming cottages of years ago, 
 •colossal palace hotels now reign supreme, with miles of 
 avenues and pleasure grounds ; bands of music are attached 
 to each hotel, and sometimes they number as man}' as sixty 
 performers. Gilmore, Levy, and other eminent soloist musi- 
 cians are there in the course of the season, with their respec- 
 tive bands ; the enormous expense for music alone to the 
 hotel proprietors must be a very heavy item of expenditure, 
 but the business done no doubt compensates for the outlay. 
 Coney Island is a great place for a day's excursion, and 
 many thousands of persons from the adjacent cities, in the 
 hot season, avail themselves of this cool, breezy, gay place, 
 enlivened as it is with every amusement the heart can desire. 
 But to stay at the hotels, as myriads do every summer, 
 must be tiresome ; the noise and turmoil of so much pleasure 
 seeking becomes very wearisome and monotonous in a short 
 while, except to the fast, giddy young men or women who 
 frequent Coney Island often. 
 
 The miles of long stretch of beautiful sandy beach is un- 
 . surpassed, and will always be the same to the lovers of bath- 
 ing, for Nature cannot be altered ; but the wonderful trans- 
 formation of a quiet retreat, in times past, to a summer's 
 carnival of pleasure, is almost surprising in its change. 
 
 Early in September, 1889, great havoc was clone Coney 
 Island by a fearful gale of wind and surf, lasting several 
 clays, and in part destroying the hotels aud Manhattan Rail- 
 way by its great violeuce. 
 
 Jerome Park Races. 
 
 This fashionable resort for running races is much patron- 
 ized in the season. Situated but a short railway ride from 
 New York, it is a very pleasant spot for such recreation. 
 The same as in England, most of the racing here is by 
 saddle-horse running, with jockey riders in appropriate cos- 
 tume of silk jacket, velvet cap, short pants, and top boots 
 
1GU RAMBLES IX AMERICA. 
 
 completing the costume of the little men in miniature who 
 bestride the thoroughbred colts. 
 
 The excitement and risk of the flat and hurdle races is 
 sometimes attended with sad results ; though the owners and 
 book-makers of the high-mettled steeds do not care for the 
 fatalities of flood and field, so that their favorite horses do 
 but win by getting first place, and the}' can pocket the bet- 
 ting proceeds. 
 
 We witnessed, while there, a dismounted jockey, lying 
 lifeless on the green grass, thrown violently from his horse, 
 while racing at break-neck speed, till the poor, excited ani- 
 mal threw his rider to the ground by stumbling, then re- 
 covered itself, and at once, with the instinct of being first at 
 the judges' stand, dashed wildly on, riderless, around the 
 course, till stopped by the grooms. 
 
 Jefferson Market Police Court. 
 
 Strolling into the above place one afternoon, a case of un- 
 requited love was made manifest. A young Creole girl 
 preferred the charge of annoyance against a young man a 
 few shades darker than herself. She told the magistrate 
 how she had been subjected to much annoyance by the per- 
 sistency of the prisoner following her about wherever she 
 went, and wanting to walk with her. In answer to the com- 
 plaint, the young mulatto said they were once engaged to be 
 married, but lately Juliana had refused his addresses, and 
 tried to shun him, but he loved her so, he could not live 
 without her. The kind-hearted justice tried to make a recon- 
 ciliation between them, but the dark-complexioned lady 
 would not listen to the magistrate's conciliatory words, and 
 turning her back on her devoted admirer, exclaimed, " I 
 never would have him as long as he lived ! " The Court, 
 fiuding his efforts unavailing to make peace and reunited 
 love between them, told the ardent young darky that the 
 penalty of annoying the girl was to be sent to jail for one 
 week, as a lesson to him, and to cool his ardor in running 
 after young girls who cared nothing for him. When the 
 magistrate's decision was given, the tears streamed down the 
 dusky face of the would-be lover with such painful force 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 161 
 
 that the justice relented, by sending the girl away first, and 
 finished up by giving poor weeping sable tl Romeo" a repri- 
 manding and dismissal, with the full promise never to annoy 
 his Juliana again. 
 
 Among the many curious robberies in New lork City, 
 one was told the writer, of a young woman of an unfortunate 
 class, who, on going into a liquor saloon at night for some 
 cordial, stupidly took a roll of bank bills from out of one of 
 her stockings. The idle, thieving ruffians, who hang around 
 bars, opened their greedy eyes at the sight of the girl's 
 money; they speedily followed her to a lone'y street, then 
 violently seizing her by the waist, threw her bodily into an 
 empty ash-barrel (head foremost), so that the thieves could 
 the more readily rob the poor miserable woman of the money 
 from its hiding-place. 
 
 Some friends and the narrator were coming home late at 
 night from a grand masquerade ball, and passing through 
 one of the side streets, between Broadway and the Bowery, 
 in the gloom and shadow, a few yards distant, we beheld 
 three men. One was quite drunk, aud propped up against 
 the railing of a house, while his companions were busy rob- 
 bing him, without violence, however. As we hurried 
 towards them, the highway robbers ran different ways : and 
 as we passed the intoxicated man, we heard him exclaim, 
 •• What are you doing to me? Leave me alone ! " So much 
 for drunkenness and saloon companions, to be robbed and 
 fleeced almost under the shadow of the police headquarters. 
 
 A newly appointed police magistrate in New York City, 
 some years ago, combined a small business as bronze manu- 
 facturer with the meting out of justice. One day, one of 
 his workmen, noted for irregularities, was brought before the 
 justice for the misdemeanor of drunkenness. The magis- 
 trate, of course, pretended not to know the delinquent, and 
 gravely gave the prisoner a severe lecture of reprimand, and 
 inflicted a nominal fine. Even this small amount the defend- 
 ant did not possess, but sat in a dazed sort of way within 
 the enclosure of the court till the money was forthcoming. 
 Towards the end of the day's official business, the justice, 
 wiping his glasses to go home, apparently for the first time 
 noticed the trembling and penitent workman sitting there. 
 
162 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 and severely said, " What do you want here?" The half- 
 sobered man replied, in a nervous tone, "■ I have not paid my 
 fine, your Honor ! " The administrator of the law paid the 
 money, and with much pretended harshness exclaimed, " Get 
 out of here ! " The now really sober man was not long get- 
 ting awa}-, down street. What a pity it is, the wretched 
 appetite for strong drink ! This trembling and abject crea- 
 ture was well known to be a thoroughly good mechanic (often 
 the case with drinking- men) , and situations with excellent 
 wages were freely offered to him, without avail ; he never 
 could work steadily, the result being a chronic state of hard- 
 up in money matters, invariably winding up with penury and 
 misery, and, if possible, worse than that. 
 
 The Summer Sanitary Corps of New York City. 
 
 Forty-eight physicians and two female doctors, recently 
 appointed by the Board of Health, started on their mission 
 of mercy to alleviate suffering humanity on the sunny, scorch- 
 ing 1st of July, 18!)0. This corps of the medical fraternity, 
 under the guidance of the sanitary commissioner, inspect the 
 tenement districts of the sick and poor during the heated 
 term of July and August, visiting, counselling, bringing hope 
 and life to thousands of needy families. Few cities have a 
 better organized or more generous charity than this, a charity 
 which the poor and lowly may all accept without any false 
 notions of independence. We all know what the side and 
 back street miseries of large cities, like New York's over- 
 crowded tenements, are like ; squalor, indigent poverty, 
 neglect, and suffering and other causes produce much sick- 
 ness, particularly among the young and helpless The laud- 
 able system of distributing circulars in English, German, and 
 Italian, .giving simple instructions for the treatment of sick 
 children, is a humane benevolence worthy of imitation by 
 crowded cities generally. The physicians thus appointed, 
 in their mission of good work, receive at the rate of one hun- 
 dred dollars per month. 
 
 The census men of 1890, having completed their task of 
 enumeration of the United States, state the figures amount 
 to <J-1 ,00\000. This nation, which at the struggle for hide- 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 163 
 
 pendence some three generations ago, was hardly 3,000,000 
 strong, now outranks in population all the great powers, ex- 
 cepting Russia. This marvellous and rapid growth of popu- 
 lation and progress is in a measure the outcome of the con- 
 stant influx of cosmopolitan emigration, in conjunction with 
 American enterprise. 
 
 The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Central Park. 
 
 Numerous are the visitors and residents in New York who 
 neglect the opportunity of visiting the above-named Museum 
 of Art, either through the want of kuowledge of the gems 
 contained, or some other cause. The pictures by old and 
 modern masters in the eastern galleries are worthy many 
 hours' attention, and are such as to engross the artistic taste 
 of student and connoisseur alike, in the excellence of the 
 many talented paintings produce'd. Among the names of 
 artists of distinguished ability may be mentioned those of 
 David Teniers, of the Flemish school of old masters, Sir 
 Joshua Reynolds and Sir Peter Lely, of English renown of 
 ancient masters ; while France is ably represented by the won- 
 derful modern works of that famed artist, Meissonier, and 
 the celebrated '-Horse Fair" picture of Rosa Bonheur. 
 The galleries of modern sculptures in the hall are well worthy 
 of close attention ; the statuary therein exhibited are very in- 
 teresting products of the sculptor's chisel, while in the rooms 
 devoted to artistic silver and bronze work there is much to 
 charm the connoisseur in metals, wrought out with great 
 manipulation and skill by the cunning hand of man into such 
 beautiful shapes and of fine design in embossing and chasing. 
 Porcelain, in every variety of shape and color, is also exhib- 
 ited here in the galleries, of which the eye never wearies of 
 its many beauties. 
 
 Near by the Metropolitan Museum of Art is the building 
 devoted to Natural History, and to all lovers of natural 
 science a sight is here worthy of much admiration, from 
 small insects to the largest quadrupeds in Nature, which are 
 in well-preserved condition, and arranged in classified order 
 of their species. 
 
164 
 
 RAMBLES IX AMERICA. 
 
 American Peculiarities. 
 
 Ill American small towns or cities the custom is somewhat 
 peculiar, in regard to their houses. In many cases, when a 
 visitor calls, the initiated scarcely ever makes for the front 
 door in asking admittance, but invariably goes to the back 
 or side door, which is generally left unfastened. The front 
 approach, or best entrance, is hermetically sealed by being 
 bolted and double-locked; consequently the bolts and liars 
 
 '^MMk^f^^l^M^w-^^^ 
 
 ^m* 
 
 get rusty from cvery-dav want of use, — so much so that 
 when a novice of a caller ventures up the front steps and 
 rings the door-bell, there is much turning of keys, and a gen- 
 eral wrestling of unused, rusty locks is the result ; and a look 
 of chagrin from the housewife to the bold invader, for break- 
 ing the spell of closed doors. What the motive is, it is hard 
 to say, unless it may be to protect the parlor carpet from 
 muddy boots, or perhaps a gladsome ray of sunshine might 
 dart into the- sanctum and spoil the furniture. 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 165 
 
 Another peculiarity in soire country towns is, that a 
 stranger may pass through streets of houses and never once 
 see a living form in the front part of the dwellings. It re- 
 sembles a village in a state of seige ; window shutters closed 
 in barricaded sorts of rooms, excluding God's blessings of 
 air and light. But the economical housewife would exclaim, 
 41 My best carpet from the sun and dust must be saved, and 
 in the winter the cold must be kept out." All the domestic 
 business of an American home is generally transacted at the 
 back or side doors of the house ; and perhaps it is a piece 
 of impertinence of the writer to question such ways. 
 
 Meeting an American acquaintance, with very blackened 
 face, we inquired the reason of the .<oot. He replied, "I 
 have been wrestling with a stove." From the term, one 
 would imply that a pugilistic encounter had taken place ; 
 not so at all ; the stove needed a thorough cleaning with 
 black lead, and bad, in the figurative language of our friend, 
 to be ''wrestled with"; because, one would suppose, the 
 stove didn't like it. Then again, that old bone of contention 
 between husband and wife, the refixing of stove-pipe,, when 
 more harsh words are used on the occasion than any since 
 the pair were united in wedlock. 
 
 In due time the house-cleaning of spring and fall comes 
 around in American homes, and it is something wonderful to 
 behold ; the busy matron enveloped in a large apron, the 
 female help clad in the same way, with a turban also on her 
 head ; and both mistress and maid make a clear onslaught 
 on the devoted home, on a certain day ; every carpet is taken 
 up. and every picture taken down ; the bedding hung out of 
 the window ; everybody cross and ill-tempered ; babies, if 
 there are any, always crying amidst the confusion of sweep- 
 ing, scrubbing, window-cleaning, etc. ; in fact, everything is 
 turned topsy-turvy. Then a thoroughly true housewife, when 
 she has made everybody miserable and herself worn out with 
 the periodical house-cleaning, sits down and has a good cry ; 
 but a reaction at last takes place ; the carpets and furniture 
 are allowed to be replaced, and the poor, chop-fallen husband 
 is permitted to come home in peace once more, till the next 
 six months is up, and then the cleaning goes on again. The 
 cleanliness and thriftiness of American homes are worth v 
 
166 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 of imitation by other countries ; if ever so humble, the 
 abodes in America are invariably neat and cleanly ; the best 
 is made of a little, oftentimes, and the houses are never 
 slovenly. In truth, the wages earned in this country are 
 sufficient to secure and keep good homes, if the husband is a 
 temperate and industrious person, and the wife a willing- 
 helper. 
 
 The mania of weighing and being weighed is quite an in- 
 stitution in the United States amongst all classes, from the 
 rich land-owner down to the poorest artisan ; all have the 
 infection ; it is practised on the new-born baby, a few hours 
 old, and goes on from the school-boy and school miss in 
 their teens to the decrepid old man and woman. If a sum- 
 mer's vacation is on hand, a rush for the scales is made by 
 both sexes, to keep account how much flesh is gained or lost 
 during the holiday trip ; if a headache or toothache occurs, 
 the weighing business is again in requisition ; if some persons 
 are sick twenty-four hours, and the scales are to be got at, 
 the balance of probable loss is calculated with minute exact- 
 ness. On Saturdays the school-children copy their elder-. 
 and have their picnics in the weighing line, to the annoyance 
 of the family grocer; the youngsters trotting 'around tin- 
 neighborhood, in and out of every store that keeps Fair- 
 banks's standard or any other weighing machines ; and when 
 thoroughly tired out, go home, report, their condition of so 
 many pounds more or less than a week ago, and then make 
 an inroad into the Saturday's baked beans ; and try by that 
 means to recover their status of weight, if any is lost. 
 
 Of the observances of most American funerals, the usual 
 custom is to give notice by newspapers or otherwise of tin- 
 death of the deceased, and relatives and friends are invited 
 to the house of mourning on a certain day ; religious ser- 
 vices are generally held at the residence of the departed 
 one, and all the formula of a mixed gathering takes place. 
 People from all parts come ; some who never knew the 
 deceased, but wish to be present, perhaps to hear the death- 
 lesson inculcated, or more frequently from morbid curiosity : 
 women with shawls and dresses of every variety of color, 
 red feathers and green veils on the bonnets or hats ; in 
 fact, no semblance of outward mourning or w e is notice- 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 167 
 
 able ; the corpse is viewed after the clergyman's remarks, 
 and the sight-seers go away, satisfied with having done their 
 duty. Some of the old ladies (regular attenders) boast of 
 how many funerals they attend in a week, and seemed sur- 
 prised that others do not follow the same example. This 
 reminds the writer of an anecdote, several years ago, when 
 hanging was prevalent for minor offences in England ; one 
 friend met another, inquiring why the other was not at the 
 execution lately; the friend replied that he "seldom went 
 to any hangings now, — in fact, he scarcely took auy kind 
 of pleasures lately." 
 
 Whether it is the nature of the climate of America, or 
 force of habit that cannot be controlled, or something else, 
 it is difficult to say what causes such unpleasant expectora- 
 tion from so man} - males and females in this country. One 
 might almost imagine this vast continent a suffering multi- 
 tude of persons afflicted with catarrh. Nothing can be more 
 unfortunate than an affliction of this kind (whether real or 
 imaginary, is left open to doubt). Not only young people, 
 but their elders practise this disagreeable habit of coughing, 
 expectorating, and spitting the day long, and then go for 
 that panacea of all cures, the water-faucet. Fifty times a 
 day, or more, is the incessant demand made on the water- 
 supply tank, for those supposed to be suffering with catarrh, 
 or those idly-disposed ones, just to pass the time, listlessly 
 waiting, while a quantity of water wastes away, to get a 
 glass or two of the cool beverage. When one enters a hotel 
 dining-room the obsequious waiter speedily brings a glass of 
 water, however cold the weather may be. Ice-water, of 
 course, is used in such large quantities during the summer 
 season, as oftentimes does more mischief to the stomachs of 
 the imbibers than the worst kind of rum they could swallow ; 
 competent medical authorities have proved this. It is far 
 from the writer's intention to recommend strong liquors, 
 except when strictly necessary in cases of sickness ; but 
 much safer drinks than ice-water, to pour into overheated 
 bodies, are lemonade, tea, coffee, barley-water, etc., to 
 assuage one's thirst with, and satisfy the yearning for some- 
 thing liquid, in the hot season of the year. 
 
 Another curious feature here, amongst the voung men 
 
168 RAMBLES IX AMERICA. 
 
 generally, occurs whenever a theatrical performance (or 
 show, as it is called in country towns) takes place. When 
 the amusement is over, a long file of men and bo\'S in line 
 fringe the edge of the sidewalk, their motto being, one would 
 suppose, to see and be seen ; also stare ladies out of coun- 
 tenance, make all kinds of remarks, good, bad, and indif- 
 ferent, to those who emerge from opera house and con- 
 cert hall. Even church-going folks do not escape being 
 looked over, for the i,ou»g body-guard is always on hand, 
 and ever on duty in all kinds of weather, to watch their vic- 
 tims, oftentimes for slander or criticism. Why this standing 
 abuse is passively submitted to by pastors of churches, and 
 allowed by the police authorities, is a mystery to many, and 
 an enigma to others ; the sidewalks should be swept off, 
 and kept clear of such ill-mannered people. 
 
 Still another ; a most peculiar notion some young men 
 have, in storm or sunshine, is that of hanging or loafing 
 about the most public street corners, and during evenings 
 loitering in doorways, staring females out of countenance as 
 they pass by, chewing and spitting on the sidewalks most 
 offensively, making the promenade at these coiners far from 
 pleasant. The police sometimes make a faint effort to stop 
 this nuisarce, but in a mild sort of way, truly in such a man- 
 ner that the idlers still exist, and the evil continues. A 
 Saturday night's promenade in most towns is something re- 
 markable. Stores are open late, and a constant flow of 
 pedestrians is kept up ; young men and girls do the " go as 
 you please" walk till their limbs ache, and then they dissolve 
 (like the witches in " Macbeth") into thin air to their habi- 
 tations. 
 
 While on this subject of peculiarities, and with all due def- 
 erence to Americans of every class, one word on the item 
 of dress (men's dress, of course). Without doubt, the 
 majority of citizens of this country are better clad than any 
 other nation in the world ; the skilled artisan of this continent 
 appears invariably well dressed, and bears comparison with 
 others in different countries ; the circumstances of better 
 paid wages gives the resident mechanics here a much fitter 
 opportunity to dress well ; they can afford it, and they have 
 the good taste as well as the means to do it; and we find 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 169 
 
 the new-comers from the other side of the Atlantic speedily 
 fall into the same views ; discarding their old-fashioned 
 coats, with rounded shoulders, for others of American cut 
 and style, though that sort of style is somewhat overdone. 
 A Yankee, full dressed in a winter overcoat, if he is ever so 
 thin and spare, will look a goodly sized man, in the big- 
 garment of innumerable paddings ; the coat shoulders are 
 wadded and padded, and stick out like a*soldier's epaulet ; 
 and it is very ludicrous sometimes to observe, while walking 
 behind these lay figures in an overcoat, the different move- 
 ments of the arms ; for as they move up to the shoulder, that 
 part of the limb remains stationary, as it is encased in a bed 
 of padding, giving the moving individual an appearance of 
 one of Mrs. Jarley's wax-work figures, on the rampage, just 
 wound up for the day. A notable feature oftentimes with 
 young Americans of both sexes is, that they seem invariably 
 to have gone to school with almost every one of their 
 acquaintances who is mentioned in their hearing, a pecu- 
 liarity quite common among all classes. 
 
 "Surprise Parties" in America. 
 
 Surprise parties in the United States are an institution 
 entirely its own. A number of friends arrange together to 
 have a good time at a certain person's house, who is supposed 
 to be surprised, and whom most of the conspirators know. 
 Music is provided and refreshments of all kinds are generally 
 very liberally brought b} 7 the ladies of the party. The band 
 of surprisers meet at an acquaintance's residence at a stated 
 hour ; then the little procession pairs off, each person carry- 
 ing a pot of beans, a pie, or basket of eatables ; the} 7 march 
 to the victims' dwelling, burst in upon them, and take pos- 
 session of the house or tenement. Then comes the fun. A 
 number of the lady visitors put on clean aprons, and attend 
 to the culinary department in the kitchen, preparatory for 
 supper ; others go in for music, dancing, and flirting ; while 
 some of the ladies and gentlemen of the party appear as if 
 they were carved out of stone or wood, so inanimate are they ; 
 sitting listlessly yawning, and staring at one another ; seem- 
 ing to take no interest in anything, and utterly wearied with 
 
170 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 the surprise business. The master or mistress of the house, 
 whether they are surprised or not, always endeavor to 
 pretend they are, ami bustle about good-naturedly, making 
 everybody welcome to their home. The writer of these 
 sketches has spent some very agreeable evenings at these 
 gatherings, in the pleasant society of kind friends and ac- 
 quaintances. 
 
 • 
 
 The Hack Office. 
 
 Idlers at the hack office are a curious mixture of transient 
 and stationary humanity, something between the barbers raid 
 shoemakers — shop gossips ; the livery-stable sanctum is the 
 great emporium centre of attractive outpouring of thought. 
 From early morn till dewy eve the news is gathered in from 
 far and wide of people's doings, in. the city and out of it : any 
 passers-by are swiftly chronicled, criticised, and looked over 
 by the idlers, w r ho seem to spend most of their existence in 
 lounging around the office and barn of a livery stable, lazily 
 reading newspapers, spitting, chewing, and occasionally en- 
 forcing their arguments in low, coarse language, and some- 
 times comparing notes of disparagement on other men's 
 horses, in or out of town. The proprietors of livery stables 
 are generally a decent set of hard-working men, who would 
 be glad to get rid of. their daily pests (the barn-idlers), 
 who hang about the hack office like an incubus. When in- 
 dustriously inclined for an odd job, they make an effort to 
 drive, being too lazy to pull off their coats and work at a 
 trade like a man, but prefer to fritter away their time 
 amidst the close odors of a stable. What on earth is the 
 attraction at the hack offices? Is it the fondness for horses? 
 If so, why not imitate the dumb creatures, and work, like 
 them, for their living ; if, on the other hand, it is sheer idle- 
 ness, we cannot envy their choice, shut in a little room, a 
 few feet square, inhaling the unwholesome atmosphere of 
 stale, reeking tobacco, or probably giving and taking coarse 
 jokes, not in a very commendable manner. The regularly 
 employed drivers and hostlers at livery stables look on with 
 contempt at the " loafers," who seem to be always in the 
 way. 
 
GAMBLES IN AMERICA. 171 
 
 American Sewing Societies and Festival. 
 
 . These • associations, somewhat peculiar to the United 
 States, consist of companies of ladies, who elect from their 
 own bod} 7 a president, secretary and other officers, their 
 praiseworthy object being to assist the .poor by the labor of 
 their nimble fingers. The members each subscribe' so many 
 dollars annually, to form a fund for materials, charitable 
 gifts, etc. Meetings for business are held weekly, and the 
 sewing work is performed at the houses of all the members 
 in turn, and sometimes in the parlor of the church to which 
 the members of the society belong. This is unquestionably 
 a good institution to assist the poor ; yet the ill-natured have 
 denounced some of these gatherings as mere coteries for 
 gossip and scandal of their neighbors. Be this as it may, 
 these societies are exceedingly creditable to the female por- 
 tion of America, on account of the sympathy and aid they 
 furnish to the poor, gladdening the hearts of the desolate by 
 the timely gifts of clothing in the severe seasons. These 
 societies occasionally give a grand fete, or fancy fair, to help 
 the exchequer, when the gentleman friends are invited to 
 assist in the business arrangements. 
 
 The writer had the pleasure of serving as one of the com- 
 mittee, and was much struck by the profuse liberality of the 
 townspeople in bringing gifts in aid of the festival, such as 
 cakes of every description, tarts, hams, tongues, pumpkin, 
 pies, artificial and natural flowers, fancy ornaments, etc., 
 and other presents to grace the counters of the fair traders in 
 the bazaar. Several gentlemen, mostly clergymen, addressed 
 the meeting on the subject of temperance, and the evil con- 
 sequences of its opposite. 
 
 We may here mention an ingenious Yankee device for 
 drawing the dollars from the visitors' pockets. Independ- 
 ently of the stalls for the sale of fancy goods, a miniature 
 post-office was erected ; a gay-looking structure, adorned 
 with flags and flowers, looking indeed more like a beautiful 
 boudoir than a post-office ; to serve at which, a pretty young 
 lady was selected as post-mistress, in order to attract the 
 young gentlemen, and induce them to inquire at the office for 
 letters. The fair president of the mail then asks them the 
 
172 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 name of the letter inquired for, and other young ladies are 
 inside, acting as clerks, who quickly write the name given on 
 the envelopes of the letters, which are handed to the appli- 
 cant on payment of fifteen cents. Should the young gal- 
 lants offer a larger coin, he seldom gets any change, as the 
 object is to receive every tiling, give back nothing. The 
 insides of the letters contain bits of poetry, feigned lovers' 
 epistles, moral maxims and a variety of subjects suitable for 
 either sex. the missives for ladies and gentlemen being care- 
 fully kept apart to prevent confusion. 
 
 In later years, sewing-circles are getting more in the spirit 
 of the age, about once in every two weeks. Young people are 
 invited to these social gatherings ; the girls are supposed to 
 assist the elder ladies in sewing, but their eyes are more often 
 fixed on the entrance door, the later hour in the evening being 
 tin- advent of the young men escorts, who claim they come to 
 fetch their sisters, cousins, or nieces home ; but we are inclined 
 naturally to believe that the young gallants' object is to carry 
 home some one else's sister, other than their own, by the sit- 
 ting apart from the older ladies at supper, and playing off 
 the flirtations that old and young are mostly so fond of 
 under the shadow of the church, and in the presence of the 
 good-natured pastor and his wife, who look smilingly on at 
 the turtle-doves. 
 
 Drinking Practices in America. 
 
 " 'Prink, drink,' the demon cried : 
 • Away with care and sorrow ; 
 Be happy while yon can to-day. 
 And never mind the morrow.' " 
 
 The bar-rooms, or saloons, in the United States, differ 
 materially from those in England, for few of them have a 
 vestige of a seat, however tired a person may be. Yet 
 the license authorities in Boston, 1S!)0, have established 
 the law that bar-drinking shall be abolished, and every 
 applicant for a dram must be seated at a table, and the 
 beverage brought to him. And though they have loads of 
 bottles, liquors, and cigars, there are few attempts at show 
 and splendor, at any rate in the Eastern States, that 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 173 
 
 characterize the Western States and some parts of Europe. 
 When two friends meet (particularly in large cities) and 
 shake hands, the first words after the welcome universally 
 are, " I guess we'll liquor," or have a drink ; then adjourn 
 to the bar. If brandy or whiskey be the stimulant called 
 for, a bottle, containing perhaps a quart, and nearly full, 
 is handed to the customers, with a couple of small tumblers, 
 into which they pour what they please ; and as there is no 
 fixed limit, a greedy dram-drinker may regale himself to his 
 content at low cost. The more general custom in these bar- 
 rooms is just to cover the bottom of the glass with the 
 liquor, gulp it down, and then cross over the road to some 
 other dram-shop, to get another dose, and so on ; the price 
 of each drink being ten cents for liquors, and five cents for 
 lager (and of course the charge is more at hotels) ; thus 
 enabling those who wish, to get drunk at a small expense ; 
 for the American liquor, be it remembered, is considerably 
 above proof, and very fiery and impure. As for good liquors, 
 they can, of course, be purchased at a certain price, but 
 only at the best and most respectable hotels. It were, 
 undoubtedly, much to be desired that the bad habit of dram- 
 drinking should gradually diminish in operation, for it pre- 
 vails among all classes of the community, and entails much 
 misery and privation to wives and poor children of drinking- 
 men. 
 
 There is a peculiarity in American bar-rooms that would 
 be well worthy of imitation in other countries ; never, 
 scarcely, does one see a woman enter them, either as an 
 applicant for drink or to serve behind the bar. We do not, 
 of course, mean that women there do not partake of the 
 inebriating cup (whether beer or spirits) at all, but very 
 seldom are those disgusting scenes of female intoxication 
 and debauchery seen on the streets of American cities that 
 are daily occurrences in London and most of the great towns 
 throughout the British Empire. When such habits are in- 
 dulged in by American women who are abroad, it is not at 
 public bars, but when they are sitting quietly in oyster and 
 other so-called saloons, protected by curtained partitions 
 from the public view; and granted, even, that this shows a 
 bad state of morals, females do not incur that loss of self- 
 
174 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 respect which would result from their exposure in the garish 
 brilliance of au open English bar. Also, there are none of 
 those pretty, well-dressed, showy, and coquettish barmaids, 
 who are too often employed as a lure to attract liquorish- 
 toothed elderly and young men, who often spend hours in 
 chatting to and flattering the girls behind the counter — the 
 chief object of whose graciousness and amiability is to 
 bring grist to their employer's mill, and laugh in their sleeve 
 at the dangling gallants. 
 
 Country Boarding-houses. 
 
 The boarding-houses of America, especially in country 
 parts, are matters of necessity to a single man ; in some 
 villages and towns there are neither hotels nor restaurants, 
 so that he has no alternative. Different customs prevail in 
 establishments of this kind, but when the rate of payment 
 is generally high, it is rather hard to be compelled to eat 
 whatever a landlady may choose to provide, whether agree- 
 able to the palate or not, or whether one be sick or in 
 health. Nevertheless, like the laws of the Medes and the 
 Persians, which never alter, the arrangements cannot be 
 changed ; and, therefore, at first we felt this mode of living 
 somewhat tiresome, though one gets used to it, after a time, 
 and could relish apple or pumpkin pies for breakfast as well 
 as the best of them. 
 
 The private boarding-houses, in pleasant families, are 
 agreeable enough ; but when a boarder is daily reminded by 
 a stingy proprietress of the high price of provisions, or 
 some family squabble is reproduced at the dinner, one is apt 
 to leave it with any but agreeable impressions. 
 
 At one of the houses where the writer resided, we had an 
 old landlady about whose dinners there was a peculiarity 
 quite the reverse of pleasant. At a stated time, say twelve 
 o'clock, all the boarders were supposed to be in their places 
 at the dinner-table ; but the old lady, the presiding genius 
 of the house, and her husband also, would insist upon having 
 the dinner served up half an hour previously, in order to 
 supply to each individual his or her portion. 
 
 The idea was capital, and a master-stroke of economy ; 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 175 
 
 bat the result unhappily was, that we always had a cold 
 dinner, which is anything but agreeable. Yet the boarders 
 submitted to this martinet's whims without a murmur, fear- 
 ing to be unpopular with her, if the}* interfered. 
 
 This same lady was quite a character, in her way, for she 
 devoted herself with especial diligence to the reading of 
 newspapers. Her depth in this sort of knowledge was 
 immense ; and with such skill in political lore, that she could 
 fully sustain an argument on any subject, however great the 
 opposition, rocking her two-hundred-pound body, meanwhile, 
 in her sturdy rocking-chair, and laying down the law so 
 loudly, and with such strong emphasis, that she soon drove 
 her opponents from the field. 
 
 One more anecdote respecting her, and we have done. 
 The sultry, hot days of Jul}' and August threw the chronicler 
 into a low fever, during which, I must in justice say, the old 
 lady attended me with great kindness. One day, however, 
 I was feeling worse than usual, having no relatives in the 
 township, and being despondent and lonely, which doubtless 
 was portrayed in my looks; when, perhaps for the purpose 
 of cheering the patient, this Job's comforter in petticoats 
 observed, '-Young man, it would be a great pity, I guess, 
 to have to bury you so far away from your friends ! " 
 
 AVhile on the subject of boarding-houses, let us observe 
 that a great deal depends on the boarder making himself as 
 agreeable as he can to the host and hostess, as well as to the 
 other guests of the house ; for a sour-tempered person will 
 find himself subjected to a thousand petty annoyances. In 
 many families with whom we have resided, we can speak in 
 the highest terms of praise, both of their general household 
 arrangements and individual kind attentions. 
 
 Divorces in America. 
 
 Divorces on the American continent are alarmingly on the 
 increase, particularly in the New England States. Compe- 
 tent authorities say, in this section of the country as many 
 as "two thousand families are broken up, every year," as the 
 practical result of the free-and-easy facilities of procuring 
 divorces. It is no uncommon sight to witness a mere girl- 
 
176 RAMBLES IN' AMERICA. 
 
 wife, sometimes the mother of one or two children, called a 
 •• divorced woman," and oftentimes she seems proud of the 
 appellation ; though invariably the young wife has to return 
 home to her father and mother, or perhaps has to go hack to 
 the old drudgery of workship or mill, which she thought she 
 had escaped from, by marrying a good and kind husband. 
 If her friends are in a well-to-do position, the "divorced 
 wife " becomes an inmate of the old home, and lapses into 
 a sort of domestic eyesore. The husband, lie he young or 
 old, feels that he is a free man again, can flirt with other 
 women, and the world smiles benignly on. He dreams of 
 his late marriage as a kind of nightmare, from which he has 
 so easily escaped ; never thinking of the young girl, in the 
 bloom of her youth and freshness of her early life, who gave 
 up all for him, left a good home and kind parents — for 
 what? for a few months of mockery, called marriage; the 
 sacred bond which is as easily annulled and broken as it 
 was made 
 
 What is the cause of divorces? The answer given, some- 
 times, is desertion, neglect, cruelty, incompatibility of temper., 
 and many other causes, the chief of which is deception one 
 towards the other. A young couple will court a few months, 
 arrange to marry, and in many cases the man will tell an 
 untruth as to his earnings or his position in life ; the honey- 
 moon is scarcely over, when the wife finds she has made a 
 great mistake in marrying; she is no better off than when 
 she was single ; she cannot even dress so well now, out of 
 her husband's small pittance of wages, as he is not a stead}* 
 man, which she finds out to her sorrow, and the moody wife 
 feels keenly the disappointment of her early discouraging 
 life. The husband, quick at discernment, soon perceives 
 the coldness of his spouse, and the estrangement once com- 
 menced, soon culminates into a separation or divorce. Or it 
 may be that the right pair have not come together ; one may 
 be better educated than the other, their tastes and habits 
 perhaps totally different; and the spectacle of a refined, 
 cultured woman being linked to a coarse, illiterate man is 
 enough to make a reawakening and a craving to be free 
 again. Or a frivolous couple may many after a few weeks' 
 courtship, tire of one another in as many months, rake up a 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 177 
 
 quarrel, and relatives on both sides advise a speedy divorce. 
 This is the sad sight one sees every day in New England, 
 the section of the country where it is supposed the inhabi- 
 tants are better taught in the world's way of deportment and 
 learning than the West and South ; and if the number of 
 schools and churches in the Eastern States were of any 
 avail to keep the holy words and sacred ceremony of matri- 
 mony before one's eyes, then indeed marriage laws should 
 be looked upon as a serious, religious compact to be invio- 
 lably respected, and not ruthlessly trampled on, as it is even- 
 day of our lives. What an example to the rising generation 
 which is growing up, with their quick ears and sharp eyes, 
 so eager to learn of the scandals and divorce cases heralded 
 in our daily journals ! The young men or maidens soon pick 
 up the levity of learning how to get rid of a bad bargain, 
 when their time comes in the marriage line. The moral effects 
 of such training are radically bad, and if not checked by the 
 Legislature in some way, the consequences will be that the 
 holy bond of matrimony will be held by some with as little 
 respect as among the savages, out West. 
 
 The eminent divine, Dr. Dix, of Trinity Church, New 
 York, in his'late lectures on marriage, alluded most strongly 
 to the great and increasing evil of divorce. He stated some 
 unpalatable truths, and pronounced some principles that can- 
 not be set forth too often nor too strongly. He dwelt with all 
 the abhorrence of a man of keen moral sensibilities upon the 
 rapid increase of divorce, and the peril to society which it 
 indicates. He spoke in withering terms of the record New 
 England has made, calling it " the centre of this moral cess- 
 pool." And with a divorce rate of one to every fourteen 
 marriages in Massachusetts, one to every eight in Connecti- 
 cut, and figures almost as bad in the other States, it must be 
 confessed that his burning words are deserved. Dr. Dix 
 thinks that marriage is coming to be looked upon as a civil 
 contract, and no more. " The notion," said he, " that mar- 
 riage is only a civil contract, terminable, like other such con- 
 tracts, at the pleasure and convenience of the parties, is and 
 must be in the brain of every advocate and approver of 
 divorce." The lecturer went on to say, in his vigorous style, 
 that if the New England States go on with the alarminglv 
 
178 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 increase of divorce, he declared, in his opinion, " we are not 
 much better than the Mormons." 
 
 His deductions may be unpalatable, but the operations 
 of the divorce laws in the Eastern States prove there is much 
 truth in what he says. A persistent movement to obtain 
 uniform divorce laws in all the States is about the only legal 
 remedy which would have any efficacy. Such discussion 
 of the question as that given by Dr. Dix is of vastly more 
 benefit, because of its educational value, than any legislative 
 enactment, that is raised above the convictions of the 
 people. 
 
 " Life is like a game of chess — each one holds his rank, 
 according to his quality ; but when the game is over, kings, 
 queens, and knights, and all the rest, are thrown into one 
 common box." — President Grevy. 
 
PAET III 
 
 By Steamer, from Boston to Baltimore. 
 
 On leaving Boston Bay, one is much struck by the pic- 
 turesque beauty of the numerous little islands which dot its 
 surface, and shine in the sun's rays, looking like patches of 
 gold, which became more brilliant as the fiery circle went 
 down, and all except their own crimsoned tree tops were 
 immersed in the gloom of fast-approaching night. The sun, 
 indeed, as seen at sea, either when it rises or when it sets, 
 is a sight of exquisite beauty, of which a landsman can 
 scarcely form any conception, until he sees it declining, like 
 a radiant ball of fire, and finally dipping below the horizon, 
 leaving the vast expanse in the gloaming of night. Such 
 was our first evening ; but during the night a most unfavora- 
 ble change took place, materially subversive of our personal 
 comfort ; for the rain came pouring in a vast deluge, and the 
 wind blew in fitful gusts, and gave every indication of a 
 rising storm ; for Cape Cod is always considered a rough 
 coast, at all seasons of the year. On retiring to my state- 
 room cabin for the night, a fearful headache and nausea 
 attacked me, with the usual accompaniment of seasickness ; 
 and truly the writer wished himself anywhere but in the nar- 
 row bed, listening to the howling of the wind, feeling the 
 vessel pitching and tossing, as she battled with the elements, 
 groaning ever and anon as though in pain, when a huge 
 wave gave her a more than usually powerful broadside. 
 This trip of some five huudred miles to Baltimore is very 
 pleasant in fine weather, but quite the reverse in a gale of 
 wind. After passing Cape Cod, which has such a world- 
 
180 RAMBLES IX AMERICA. 
 
 wide reputation for its fishery, and Cape Henry, farther 
 south, we next passed Smith's Island, and finally entered 
 Chesapeake Bay and the Patapseo River, reaching the busy 
 city of Baltimore at early morning, not a little fatigued by 
 the buffeting we had endured in the sea trip from. Boston. 
 
 Baltimore, "The Monumental City." 
 
 Baltimore is a city of large and increasing dimensions, 
 having some twenty years ago a population of about 140,000 
 inhabitants, while to-day the census estimate of June, 1890, 
 presents a population of 437,000 souls. Thus the Monu- 
 mental City in a quarter of a century has more than trebled 
 its rate of living humanity, and steadily grown in commerce 
 and favor. 
 
 Baltimore has many obelisks and landmarks, foremost 
 among which is the Washington Monument, a marble column 
 one hundred and sixty-three feet high, surmounted by a 
 colossal figure of that distinguished general. The view from 
 the top of this eminence is most magnificent, looking on to 
 the adjacent towns and villages as they lay extended like a 
 map at our feet ; while on one side the majestic ocean rolled 
 in calm grandeur, and on the other, the fertile, well-planted 
 country presented to our view a panorama of no ordinary 
 kind, extending to a distance of many miles. 
 
 The city of Baltimore some years ago had forty churches, 
 of all denominations, and six large markets, well supplied 
 with meat, fish, and vegetables Much fun and amusement 
 were created, at seeing crowds of colored people catering here 
 for their masters or mistresses. When a colored girl meets 
 a colored man, they bow and courtesy to each other half a 
 dozen times, and then comes a series of giggles and hand- 
 shakings, interspersed with questions about Uncle Johnson. 
 Cousin Jackson, and numerous other darkies of their 
 acquaintance. 
 
 In the hotel (the Maltby House) where we stopped, there 
 was some fun caused by the hilarity of the colored waiters 
 in playing jokes on one another, when out of sight of their 
 employers, and after the work of the day is over. One poor 
 fellow was beaten by a brother darky about the head with a 
 
K AMBLES IN AMERICA. 181 
 
 broom, till his skull sounded again, and, so far from resenting 
 it, he seemed to treat it as an excellent practical joke. 
 
 Baltimore has extensive railway communication with all 
 the most important cities of the Union ; among which is a 
 branch line of thirty-eight miles to the federal capital of the 
 United States. It is along this line that we shall now con- 
 duct the reader. 
 
 Washington and its Capitol. 
 
 This celebrated city stands on an elevated point of land, 
 formed by the confluence of the Potomac and Anacostia 
 rivers, and covers some ten or twelve square miles, with 
 streets regularly hud out, crossing each other at right angles, 
 while several broad avenues and well-planted gardens con- 
 nect the different parts of the city. The public buildings 
 have all the splendor becoming a great nation. The Capitol, 
 which is wholly built of marble, is one of the finest senate and 
 congressional houses in the world, and cost a fabulous sum 
 of money in building. The ground on which it stands is 
 elevated seventy-throe feet above the Potomac River, and 
 commands a fine prospect of the surrounding country ; and 
 the building covers an area of two or more acres, having a 
 frontage of three hundred and fifty-two feet, surmounted by 
 a central dome one hundred and twenty feet high ; besides 
 which, there are two smaller cupolas at tie termination of 
 the wings. The entrances on each front are approached by 
 long and wide flights of steps, above which are handsome 
 Corinthian porticos, leading to the rotunda, immediately 
 under the dome. The approach to this hall is adorned with 
 sculptured figures of "Peace and War"; events in the 
 struggle of the white man and the Indian ; the Pilgrims 
 Landing at Plymouth ; Capt. Smith delivered by Pocahontas ; 
 Penn's treaty with the Indians ; and lastly, a noble, colossal 
 statue of George Washington. It contains, likewise, in the 
 large circular dome, panels of some good paintings, on sub- 
 jects connected with American history ; as u The Landing 
 of Columbus in 1492 " ; the discovery of the Mississippi, in 
 1541, by De Soto; the embarkation of the Pilgrims from 
 Delfthaven, in Holland, July 21, 1020; the baptism of 
 
182 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 Pocahontas in 1613; the Declaration of Independence 
 at Philadelphia, July 4, 1776; the capture of Gen. Bur- 
 goyne, at Saratoga. Oct. 17, 1777; the surrender of Lord 
 Cornwallis at Yorktown, October, 1781; and Washing- 
 ton resigning his Commission to Congress, at Annapolis, 
 Dec. 23, 1785. All of them are beautifully executed, and 
 the groups of figures so tastefully and naturally arranged by 
 the painter's skill, that the very look of them seemed to carry 
 the spectator back to those scenes of national strife, which 
 caused so much bloodshed between the colonists and the 
 mother country. We need scarcely say that these paintings 
 form a leading attraction to the thousands of visitors who 
 throng the capital during the session of Congress. On the 
 west of the rotunda is the library, with its many thousands 
 of volumes, arranged in arched alcoves ; and around the 
 room are three tiers of galleries, the railings of which are 
 of gilt bronze, having a very gay appearance. 
 
 In the upper part of the south wing is the Hall of Repre- 
 sentatives, a semicircular chamber ninety feet long and sixty 
 feet high, surmounted by a dome, supported by twenty-four 
 Corinthian pillars of variegated and white Carrara marble. 
 The Speaker's chair is raised above the Moor and covered by 
 a canopy, beneath which, behind the chair, is the statue of 
 " Liberty," while over the door is another of "History.'* 
 standing on a winged car, covered with the signs of the 
 zodiac, which are used to form the hours of a clock. 
 
 The writer having, a letter of introduction to one of the 
 members, was, through his influence, seated amongst that 
 august body, instead of the gallery reserved for strangers. 
 My congressional friend pointed out the leading politicians 
 of the day, as the orators were debating their different views 
 of the question before the House. 
 
 The Senate Chamber is in the second story of the north 
 wing, and resembles that just described, except in being 
 smaller, as sixty senators do not require so large a space as 
 two hundred and sixty members of the House of Representa- 
 tives. This, the superior chamber, is also more splendidly 
 furnished than the other. 
 
 My kind companion introduced us to the Capitol grounds, 
 extending over many acres of cultivated gardens. 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 183 
 
 The White House, at Washington. 
 
 The other leading public edifice is the White House, or 
 official residence of the President of the United States. 
 This is a somewhat unpretending stone building, two stories 
 high. Ihe apartments within, especially the largest State 
 rooms, are admirably suited to their purpose, and splendidly 
 furnished. The mansion stands in the centre of cultivated 
 gardens, extending down to the banks of the Potomac. 
 
 The narrator of these pages was fortunate in being at 
 Washington in time to attend the President's last reception 
 of the season. On entering, we were received with entire 
 absence of formality, and ushered, along with a stream of 
 visitors, into the State drawing-room, luxuriously furnished, 
 and lighted with numerous chandeliers, which reflected their 
 brilliance on the fair guests who sat around the apartment, 
 arrayed in delicate toilets of every hue and color, tastily 
 contrasted by juxtaposition with the more sombre-colored 
 apparel of the sterner sex. The reception was unusually 
 crowded, and martial music was played during the evening, 
 as the guests paraded around the spacious State apartment. 
 
 The President's levee was held in a smaller adjoining room, 
 and as we entered, we were met by the marshal, who, being 
 apprised of my name, etc., introduced me to the President 
 of the United States, who advanced with a polite bow, cor- 
 dially shook hands with me, conversed for a moment, and 
 we bowed and passed < n, to make room for the numbers 
 who were to follow. The President's lady was also present, 
 who seemed much fatigued with the duties of the evening. 
 
 During the session of Congress, Washington is a very busy 
 city. All the hotels, large and small, are crowded with mem- 
 bers of Congress and visitors from all parts of the Union. 
 
 Mount Vernon. — Washington's Tomb. 
 
 A steamboat, starting twice a week, some years ago, used to 
 convey passengers to Mount Vernon, the once residence and 
 now the resting-place of the immortal George Washington. 
 The departure pier at the city of Washington was crowded 
 with passengers en route to the scene and home of America's 
 
1$4 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 great patriot. Mount Vernon is situated about fifteen miles 
 from the city of Washington, on the Potomac River. 
 
 It was a lovely May morning, warm for the season, and 
 the banks of the calmly flowing Potomac looked bright and 
 beautiful, both on the Virginia and Maryland shores; while 
 the hills in the background on either side seemed, with their 
 dark forests, to set off the light-green trees and shrubberies 
 nearer the river. The prospect, as we glided along the stream, 
 was very enchanting ; now pretty, picturesque-looking houses 
 with green verandas and sun blinds, placed in the midst of 
 trim, neatly cultivated gardens, would meet the eye; then 
 thickly planted groves of pines, oaks, and hickories, and 
 occasionally a mile or two of tobacco plantation, producing 
 an amount of the fragrant weed larger, perhaps, than is 
 raised in any part of the world. 
 
 On landing at Mount Vernon, and pursuing our road 
 towards the tomb of "Washington, it was with no ordinary 
 emotion that we approached so revered a spot ; and one 
 could see from the serious looks and silent footfalls of the 
 visitors how great was their veneration for a place made 
 sacred by being the depository of all that remains on earth 
 of America's immortal patriot general, George "Washington, 
 and his beloved wife, Martha. 
 
 The monument covering the vault in which his remains were 
 deposited (Dec. 11, 1800) is a plain building, being within 
 the grounds attached to the house ; and if any one would 
 form an adequate idea of the real but unpretentious great- 
 ness of his character, we would recommend him to take a 
 trip down the beautiful Potomac to Mount Vernon, and as 
 he passes through the pleasure-grounds, notice the quiet, 
 unassuming style in which the great general lived when 
 relieved from the cares of the army and State. At the time 
 of the writer's visit, some years ago, the mansion remained 
 much as it was left by Washington ; it may be all dismantled 
 now. 
 
 The narrator has lately seen the magnificent mausoleum 
 of the illustrious Wellington and Nelson in St. Paul's Cathe- 
 dral, London, England, and the crypt which contains the 
 remains of the great Napoleon I., at the palace of Invalides, 
 in Paris, of such solemn grandeur; but the quaint, plain 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 185 
 
 stone outline of all that remains of George "Washington tells 
 its own story in the couplet by the writer. Peace to the 
 memory of the great and good man whose ashes rest at 
 Mount Vernon, and around whose shrine reposes truth and 
 virtue. 
 
 A Trip to a Tobacco Plantation. 
 
 Being anxious to make some acquaintance with the pro- 
 cess of cultivating the tobacco plant, we took the ferry on 
 the. eastern branch, with the view ofJvisiting some tobacco 
 farms on the Maryland side of the 
 Potomac River. The following obser- 
 vations, made chiefly on the spot, of 
 the culture and manufacture of to- 
 bacco, will, I trust, be considered to 
 furnish some useful information on 
 the subject of the much-used tobacco 
 plant, and its cultivation in Maryland 
 and Virginia. 
 
 Tobacco, or tobasco (so called from 
 a province of Yucatan, whence the 
 Spaniards first adopted the name) , 
 was originally imported to Europe in 
 the middle of the sixteenth century, 
 and the Englishman who introduced 
 it into Great Britain was the cele- 
 brated traveller, Sir Walter Raleigh, about the year 1585 ; 
 he being the first to introduce the practice of smoking this 
 narcotic plant. When or how its use came into vogue among 
 the Eastern nations is not certainly known ; but they have 
 adopted it for several centuries, perhaps even before the dis- 
 covery of America by the Western nations. 
 
 Tobacco is sometimes used medicinally, but its employ- 
 ment in that way requires extreme caution. It is far more 
 commonly used either as a stimulant and sternutatory in the 
 shape of snuff, or as a masticatory, by chewing it in the 
 mouth, or as a sedative vapor inhaled in smoking ; and in 
 the last of these ways it is supposed, by many, to furnish 
 innocent and legitimate recreation, when used in modera- 
 
186 EAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 tion. At all events, thirty million pounds of tobacco are 
 annually consumed in the British dominions, realizing for 
 the government a revenue of more than five millions ster- 
 ling, — a pretty strong proof that the weed is held in high 
 estimation by vast numbers in every class of Britishers. 
 Nay, even the red Indians, in the countries where tobacco 
 is indigenous, consider it the choicest offering they can 
 make to their gods, and use it in all their civil and religious 
 ceremonies ; besides which, they deem airy compact or treaty 
 made over the calumet, or pipe of peace, as sacred and 
 inviolable. Smoking, however, though the first, is not the 
 only mode of using it ; for the juices extracted by chewing 
 have been deemed by some to possess a cordial quality, for 
 alleviating fatigue and hunger (be that as it may, the un- 
 healthy appearance of inveterate tobacco chewers bespeak it 
 as a practice attended with baneful effects to the constitution 
 of man). 
 
 Culture and Manufacture of Tobacco. 
 
 For the purpose of chewing, the inhabitants of the settle- 
 ments in the interior of America manufacture it by a very 
 simple process — spinning the leaves, when properly cured, 
 by means of a wheel, into a twist, thicker or thinner as may 
 be required, and then folding into rolls of about twenty 
 pounds each, to be ready for use. In this state it will keep 
 for many years, becoming milder by age. When wanted, it 
 is cut off in lengths for chewing ; or broken into small bits 
 of shreds for smoking ; or, thirdly, placed in moderately 
 small pieces near a fire, and then pounded or rubbed to a 
 powder for snuff. 
 
 The tobacco plant is cultivated in Asia as well as America, 
 but by far the largest quantity sent to Great Britain consists 
 of the unmanufactured leaves exported from Maryland and 
 Virginia, in which States alone about one hundred and 
 twenty million pounds are raised, either for home or foreign 
 consumption — about two thirds of the quantity exported 
 being sent to Germany and Holland. 
 
 The hospitable planter at whose house I was staying 
 informed me that I was rather too early in the year (May) 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 187 
 
 to see the tobacco plant as it ought to be seen by strangers, 
 unaware of the rapidity of its growth ; but we shall give the 
 result of his descriptions, adding facts also which I gleaned 
 upon the spot. It appears there are several species of the 
 tobacco plant, distinguishable chiefly by their flowers, and 
 the way in which the leaves are inserted into the stalks. 
 
 The two kinds most cultivated are the " Oronokoe " and 
 the " sweet-scented," which differ from each other only in 
 the shape of their leaves — those of the former being larger 
 and narrower. Both are tall, herbaceous plants, of erect 
 growth and noble foliage, rising in their native soil to a 
 height of seven and sometimes nine feet, while the stalk, 
 covered with a green, velvet-textured, clammy coating, is 
 upwards of an inch in diameter near the root. The leaves, 
 which are of a spear-shaped oval, have a dark-green hue, 
 and without pedicles, embracing the stalk by an auriculatedS 
 base, and grow alternately either side of it, at a distance 
 of two or three inches from each other. The largest leaves 
 are about tweut} r inches long, but they decrease in size as 
 they ascend, till they are not more than ten inches long and 
 four broad. The leaves, however, in their earlier stage of 
 growth, are not more than six inches long, of a full-green 
 hue, and rather smooth in texture, the roughness and yel- 
 lowish hue being the result of age. The stalk of the plant 
 is terminated upwards by large bunches of flowers, collected 
 in clusters, of a delicate red hue, with edges, when quite 
 blown, inclining to a pale purple ; and these flowers succeed 
 one another till the end of summer, when they make room 
 for the seeds, which are veiy small, kidney-shaped, and of a 
 brown color; each capsule containing about 1,000, and a 
 single plant producing about 350,000 seeds, which are ripe 
 about September, and when dried, are kept in bags for the 
 following season. 
 
 The Oronokoe — or, as the seedsmen call it, the long Vir- 
 ginia tobacco — is better suited to northern climates, as the 
 plant is stronger, and the leaves have a richer fragrance and 
 potency than in the other kind ; the sweet-scented, which 
 flourishes mostly in sandy soil and warm climates, growing 
 also with greater rapidity than the former, and being alto- 
 gether much milder and more agreeable in flavor. Lastly, 
 
188 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 the Nicotiana is much cultivated as au annual garden plant ; 
 for it attains a majestic height, and exhibits a most elegant 
 appearance, with its fine, luxuriant leaves, and large clus- 
 ters of flowers crowning the summit of each individual stalk. 
 
 The best ground for the tobacco plant is a warm, rich 
 soil, not subject to be overrun with weeds ; and in Virginia, 
 that most usually chosen is a warm but light, sandy soil, the 
 best situation for a plantation being the southern declivity 
 of a hill, or some spot by a wall or bank, sheltered from the 
 keen winds of the spring months. The plants, however, 
 must at the same time enjoy a free current of air, or else 
 they will not thrive. 
 
 The tobacco plant, being an annual, is of course raised ex- 
 clusively from seeds ; and great care must be taken in pur- 
 chasing the same, for the sowing of bad seed often results 
 in the loss of the expected crop. The good and bad, how- 
 ever, are not distinguishable by the eye ; and if the planter 
 be not provided with seed of his own raising, he must rely 
 solely on the honor and principle of the seedsman. The 
 seeds are sown early in April, in beds prepared for the pur- 
 pose, with warm, rich manure ; and in case of frost, after 
 the seeds have begun to germinate, mats must be thrown 
 over the beds at night, supported by poles at such a height 
 as not to crush the infant plant, but again removed soon after 
 sunrise, that the sun and air may exercise as much as possi- 
 ble their maturing influence. This is continued till the plant 
 has attained a height of about two inches, which it reaches 
 in a month from the time of sowing, when the period arrives 
 for transplanting. 
 
 The transplanting is done about the middle of May, much 
 in the same manner as we do with lettuce ; the ground is 
 carefully prepared for the plant by being ploughed or dug up, 
 and made as mellow and light as possible with good vege- 
 table manure. Great attention must also be paid at this time 
 to keep the earth soft and free from weeds, taking care to 
 prune off any dead leaves adhering to the bases of the stalks ; 
 and when the plants begin to flower, cutting off the heads, so 
 that only twelve or sixteen of the leaves may be left to re- 
 ceive the whole nutriment, and thus become larger and thicker. 
 When the tobacco is intended to be a little stronger than 
 
EAMBLES IN AMERICA. 189 
 
 usual, only twelve are allowed to remain ; wheu unusually 
 powerful, only ten or eleven ; while, on the other hand, if 
 the planter wishes to ljave an especially mild crop, he suffers 
 from eighteen to twenty leaves to remain on the stalks. This 
 operation is called" topping the tobacco," and is much better 
 done by the finger and thumb than with any instrument, be- 
 cause with the former, the pores of the plant can be closed 
 up at the time of plucking the leaf, which cannot be done with 
 the latter, the consequence being, that the juices of the plant 
 are impaired. 
 
 When the tobacco plant has reached maturity, and is fit 
 for gathering, the stalks are severed as near as possible to 
 the root, this work being usually done a little before sunrise, 
 on days that promise to be fine. Thus far accomplished, they 
 are placed carefully on the ground, and there allowed to re- 
 main exposed to the sun throughout the day, or, at all events, 
 until the leaves have been entirely iviltecl, that is, made lim- 
 ber and flexible, so as to bend any way without breaking. 
 Should there, however, be heavy and continuous rain, when 
 the plants get ripe, they must be cut down and housed with 
 all possible despatch. The places in which they are thus 
 sheltered are barns or sheds, on the floors of which the plants 
 are thinly scattered, until the leaves become limber, and then 
 laid in heaps to ferment, care being taken to turn them about 
 occasionally, in order that the whole may be equally fer- 
 mented ; and the longer they lie in this condition, the darker 
 will the color of the tobacco become. This process is termed 
 "sweating the tobacco." The plants, after lying thus for 
 about three or four days, are next laid in a heap, and pressed 
 down with heavy logs for about a week ; and while the tobacco 
 is in this state, the planter usually introduces his hand into 
 the middle of the heap, in order to ascertain that there is no 
 excess of heat ; should it be so, some of the pressure is re- 
 moved, great care being taken with this stage of the process, 
 as on the right or wrong performance mainly depends the 
 excellence or inferiority of the tobacco. 
 
 When this process, termed the "second or last sweating," 
 has been gone through, the leaves are stripped from the 
 stalks, after which they (the leaves) are tied up in bunches 
 or hands, which, after being sprinkled with sea or common 
 
190 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 water, are twisted into rolls, and in that shape exported to 
 Europe or elsewhere. Some persons, however, substitute 
 cider or white wine for water, with the view of giving the 
 tobacco a finer flavor. 
 
 The tobacco plant, moreover, is subject to the ravages of 
 a most destructive insect, called the tobacco worm, to protect 
 it against which is one of the chief concerns of the cultiva- 
 tor. To destroy these insects, or at least to keep them under 
 (for it is quite impossible to exterminate them altogether), 
 every leaf is carefully searched, and as soon as one is found 
 to be wounded, the cause of it is at once destroyed ; and so 
 rapid are the ravages they commit, that without constant 
 vigilance against their attacks, whole fields of plants would 
 soon be ravaged ; nay, even if any be left on the leaves 
 during the curing process, they prove equally destructive. 
 These vermin are found chiefly in July and August, and 
 the method of getting rid of them is called " worming the 
 tobacco " The insect is of a peculiar horned species, but in 
 what way it is produced or propagated is unknown. It is 
 first discernible when the plants have gained about half 
 their height, when the little creature appears as large as a 
 gnat; after which it lengthens out to the size of a worm, 
 and at last attains the magnitude of a man's finger. It 
 is of regular shape from head to tail, indented or ringed 
 round at equal distances, about a quarter of an inch apart, 
 at each of which indentations a pair of claws spring out, 
 by means of which it clings to the leaf of the plant. Its 
 mouth, which resembles that of a caterpillar, is placed under 
 the fore part of the head, the top of which is crowned b} 7 a 
 sharp-pointed, stiff horn, of a brown color, and about half 
 an inch long The color of the worm is in general green, 
 interspersed with yellowish white, and the body is covered, 
 like the caterpillars, with short, fine hair. 
 
 Having thus attempted to describe the culture and mode 
 of curing the tobacco plant, which is a subject of no little 
 interest, on account of the great commercial importance of 
 the product, I shall return to my kind host and his family, 
 from whom, in the several walks that we took together 
 around the plantation, the scribe gained most of the above 
 particulars. Finally, on taking leave of my generous enter- 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 191 
 
 tamers, they — though I was a perfect stranger — warmly 
 pressed me to renew my visit at my earliest convenience ; 
 and after being carried to the ferry station by a fleet horse 
 and wagon, I stepped on board the ferry-boat en route to the 
 Potomac steamer, on the other side of the river, and ere 
 long was once more at my hotel in Washington, not a little 
 pleased at having so agreeable a time, and gaining so much 
 valuable information respecting the tobacco plantations of 
 Maryland and Virginia. 
 
 Railway Trip to Philadelphia. 
 
 Our stay at Washington being ended, we boarded the cars, 
 en route to Philadelphia, and speedily rattled the train on its 
 way to Baltimore. Along the road might be seen various 
 groups of colored men, playing foot-ball and other games, 
 which gave the swarthy players ample opportunity for laugh- 
 ing, jumping, leaping, capering, and the thousand other antics 
 which colored people are so fond of exhibiting. In the shunt- 
 ing of cars across some parts of the suburbs of Baltimore, 
 years ago, mules used to be brought into requisition ; and it 
 was fine fun for the darkies, cracking their whips to accel- 
 erate the speed of their four-in-hand team, with exclama- 
 tions such as, "Get up, Miss Nancy ! " " Go along, Massa 
 Pete ! " and soon, according to the animal's name. We were 
 much diverted on our way by the sight of numerous grinning, 
 sable Dinahs, with grotesque-looking turbans on their heads, 
 of nearly every color and design, with little pickaninnies 
 capering around them, as only negro children can caper. 
 
 At length we reached the farther suburb, the engine was 
 again attached, and away we went into the open country, 
 being speedily removed from the gaze of the hundreds of 
 dark e3*es that watched the cars. We crossed several sec- 
 tions of rivers and lakes, which, as we hung over them, as it 
 were, in the dim twilight, looked anything but pleasant ; 
 for if any casualty had occurred to the train, in all pi'obability 
 a watery grave would have ended the joys and sorrows of 
 most of us. 
 
 We may mention here, that twilight in America is not of 
 such duration as in some parts of Europe. Nor will we go 
 
192 RAMBLES IN AMEKICA. 
 
 to the length of the Irishman, just landed, who, seeing the 
 moon at its full, confidently told a companion that the moon 
 in America was not as good as that in Ireland, sure. But 
 it is very noticeable how short are the twilights on this conti- 
 nent, almost suddenly changing from partial day to the 
 sable darkness of night. 
 
 We had now reached the State of Pennsylvania, first 
 settled by the celebrated Quaker, William Penn, in 1680, 
 and so well known for the important part this State played 
 in the great struggle with England for American independ- 
 ence. Pennsylvania is rich in natural resources, being abun- 
 dantly provided with valuable iron ore, almost inexhaustible 
 fields of bituminous and anthracite coal, with salt, limestone, 
 oil, and other mineral riches. The anthracite coal burns simi- 
 lar to coke, without smoke or flame (unlike the bituminous or 
 soft coal), and evolving sulphurous vapors, to obviate injury 
 from which, most housekeepers use an iron vessel filled with 
 water on the top of the stove, for the purpose of collecting 
 and consuming the fumes on its surface. At Pittsburg, 
 bituminous coal is very largely used for smelting purposes. 
 
 We now changed cars for a short steamboat ride across a 
 river ; after about an half -hour's journey on the water, we 
 again take the cars, having had good opportune for refresh- 
 ment on board. On we rattled toward the Quaker City, 
 which we reached a little before midnight. Ere we arrived, 
 our attention was called rather amusingly to an altercation 
 in the cars, about a seat, which a young passenger had 
 unconsciously taken from an irascible old gentleman, who 
 would take no apology, but proceeded to high words and 
 gesticulations, and even when somewhat appeased by the 
 other's deprecatory tone, kept mumbling and grumbling till 
 he fell asleep. 
 
 On arriving at Philadelphia, the writer went to a very 
 pleasant hotel near the Exchange building, quite central in 
 its location to all places of interest. Not to tire the reader's 
 patience too much, a brief description may not be uninter- 
 esting. Philadelphia is the third city in the Union, and 
 quoted in 1890 at approaching 900,000 in population. It 
 stands on a somewhat elevated plain, about three miles from 
 the confluence of the Delaware and Schuylkill, and extends 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 193 
 
 from one to the other, nearly two miles in breadth, running 
 also four miles along the Delaware, which is here one hun- 
 dred and twenty miles from the ocean. The plan of the 
 city is formal, like some others in America, and is nearly a 
 parallelogram, having the Delaware on the east, Schuylkill 
 on the west, Vine and Cedar streets being the boundaries 
 north and south. The two principal thoroughfares are 
 Market and Broad streets, which cross each other almost at 
 right angles, and divide the city into four nearly equal sec- 
 tions ; but the great resorts of fashion are Chestnut and 
 Walnut streets, which contain the leading stores. 
 
 Sitting on a rock in one of the pretty, ornamental, square 
 enclosures, the narrator felt a curious sensation, as if some- 
 thing larger than a spider or mosquito was stealthily climb- 
 ing up one's back, and on hastily rising, found that we had 
 disturbed a fine squirrel, who, however, came in front of us, 
 nothing daunted, and begged for biscuits or crackers, nuts, 
 etc., usually given to these pretty creatures by good-natured 
 loungers. The little animal became very friendly, leaped 
 into our lap, and extended his paws for the accustomed 
 donation. Patting and stroking would not do, so he speedily 
 ensconced himself on some one else's lap, who had come 
 provided with offeriugs for our little friend. 
 
 To endeavor to enumerate the many excellent buildings 
 and institutions would only weary the reader, but one that 
 cannot be overlooked we shall now describe. 
 
 Girard College. 
 
 Girard College, situated about a mile from the city proper, 
 is a magnificent orphan school, founded by a bequest of 
 more than two millions of dollars, left by the late Stephen 
 Girard, by birth a Frenchman, but who came out to America 
 in early life, as a friendless, deserted boy. His first situa- 
 tion was as a lawyer's junior clerk, or shop lad, to sweep out 
 the office and make himself generally useful. As he grew 
 up, by indomitable perseverance and strict integrity he rose 
 step by step, acquiring the esteem and confidence of his 
 employers, till at last he became connected with the most 
 extensive transactions of commercial enterprise in the United 
 
194 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 States. In fact, in the course of a few years, the poor, 
 friendless boy had by his own unaided efforts become mer- 
 chant, ship-owner, and millionuaire. 
 
 During the insurrection and massacre of St. Domingo, in 
 1806, the wealthier inhabitants sent their valuables on board 
 of the ships lying at that port, Mr. Girarcl being the owner 
 of the vessels. The revolt against the French tyrant, 
 Dessalines, happened sooner than was expected, and most 
 of the citizens were slain in the sanguinary tumults which 
 ensued. The property on board Mr. Girard's vessels was 
 duly advertised ; but alas, the owners were no more ; so, after 
 allowing the usual time to elapse for claimants to appear, 
 the property in due course became his. What he did with the 
 bulk of it is sufficiently apparent from the erection of this 
 magnificent college for fatherless children. 
 
 Some time during our visit there were five hundred boys 
 clothed, boarded, and educated in all the branches of liberal 
 learning at the expense of the founder, and we were informed 
 there are surplus funds for one hundred more children, were 
 there sufficient accommodation of extra buildings. Singu- 
 larly enough, in his will, Girarcl expressly stipulated that no 
 ecclesiastic, missionary, or minister should hold any appoint- 
 ment in the college, or be admitted, on any pretext, even as 
 a visitor, within its precincts. This restriction seemed to 
 intimate a wish in the founder to exclude the object of his 
 charity from all religious education ; but the difficulty was 
 got over, by liberally interpreting a clause in the deed, 
 directing that " all pains should be taken to instill in the 
 minds of the scholars the purest principles of morality." 
 From this it was inferred that he had no intention of exclud- 
 ing the use of the Bible ; and hence the directors bound the 
 president of the college to hold family worship twice a day, 
 and to perform divine service, either himself or by some 
 lay deputy, twice on each Sunday. 
 
 The building consists of a central mansion, with a long 
 portico, surrounded by a colonnade of Corinthian pillars ; 
 besides which, there are two other buildings or wings at the 
 sides ; the whole are constructed of the purest white marble. 
 The establishment is divided into five sections, four of which 
 are for the accommodation of the boys and the numerous 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 195 
 
 teachers and officers. The dining-halls are very spacious, 
 and a great array of knives, forks, plates, etc., are laid to 
 receive the viands at each meal. The bedrooms are light and 
 airy, and with the bed linen, scrupulously clean ; the soldier- 
 like regularity of the wash-room was noticeable, along which, 
 on each side, hung, on their respective pegs, long lines of 
 bright bowls, with their necessary adjuncts of soap, towel, 
 and tooth-brush, with a faucet for each boy to stand at, 
 while performing his ablutions. The exceeding regularity 
 of these arrangements convinced one that nothing had been 
 neglected that could conduce to the welfare of these father- 
 less children. 
 
 The several schools are judiciously arranged with reference 
 to the capacity of scholars, so that each one has a fair chance 
 of bringing out his talents under competent instructors, 
 either in the rudimental or advanced branches of learning, 
 the foreign languages, or the arts and sciences. 
 
 At length the time for recreation arrived, when the boys 
 were allowed to leave their studies for a twenty-minutes' 
 recess ; such gambols, capering, and half-mad vagaries were 
 truly diverting, causing one to think how great were the 
 blessings conferred by this uoble institution on so many 
 friendless children, who, but for it, might have been wan- 
 dering the streets, associating with the worst characters, and 
 finally have become inmates of prisons, or outcasts from the 
 world. 
 
 May such colleges be found in every land, training up 
 youths to become honest, useful citizens, whether in profes- 
 sions or trades, honorable merchants, or enterprising capital- 
 ists, like the noble-minded founder himself, whose marble 
 statue adorns the entrance hall. 
 
 We may add, in closing, that Philadelphia has three hun- 
 dred and fifty-two miles of street railway, at the present 
 time. 
 
 Jersey City. 
 
 A ride of about four hours by rail and boat brought us to 
 Jersey City, which lies on the right bank of the Hudson, 
 just opposite New York. The neighborhood is very fertile, 
 
196 ' RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 and furnishes the markets of the Empire City with dairy 
 produce, vegetables, and fruits, especially peaches, of a 
 most delicious flavor, immense quantities of which are daily 
 sent across the Hudson. On our arrival we crossed at once 
 to New York to see a friend, who being busy, gave me the 
 address of his residence in Jersey City, kindly bidding me 
 to stay with him for a few days. Wishing, however, to go 
 to the Italian opera at the Academy of Music, near Broad- 
 way, it was arranged that after the performance was over, I 
 should recross the feny and join my entertainer at supper. 
 
 A Misadventure. 
 
 After the opera, I crossed the river, as agreed ; but judge 
 of my confusion, kind reader, when the realization came of 
 having lost my friend's address, as I was totally unac- 
 quainted with the localities of Jersey City, besides it being 
 near midnight. Memory, however, served me with part of 
 the address, and seeing a house, where I thought my friend 
 lived, gayly lighted up, I gave a loud knock at the door. 
 My embarrassment was not diminished when the door was 
 opened by an elderly gentleman, quite a stranger to me, 
 and I found that I had disturbed a pleasant evening party. 
 Confused at the mistake, I apologized and withdrew, though 
 not before I had received the earnest commiseration of one 
 of the most charming and beautiful young ladies my eyes 
 had ever beheld, whose image, as I now write, seems indeli- 
 bly before me, in her floating white drapery, her fair blond 
 hair in luxuriant waves falling around her shapely neck, and 
 the sweet vivacity of manner as she kindly welcomed the 
 belated traveller to rest in her father's house for a while. 
 All this, after a lapse of years, is vividly engraven on one's 
 memory, enough to make him exclaim, with the poet 
 Byron : — 
 
 " Sweet girl, though only once we met, 
 That meeting I shall ne'er forget. 
 I ■would not say — I loved ; but still 
 My senses struggled with my will. 
 Perhaps it was not love ; hut yet 
 Our meeting I shall ne'er forget. " 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 197 
 
 At last, tired and dispirited, I found my way through the 
 darkness to a hotel near the ferry pier. In the office I 
 noticed several sleepy drovers and cattle jobbers, awaiting 
 the arrival of the cattle- cars. The hotel clerk stared at the 
 pallid, weary countenance before him, and seemed half 
 inclined to refuse the bed and shelter asked for, but at last 
 he showed me to a small bedroom and waited for payment 
 of the night's lodging, which I handed him with a smile, 
 quite convinced that if I had gone to a wrong house before, 
 I had now, at all events, gone to a wrong hotel. Fatigued 
 and vexed with myself, I retired at once to rest, and was 
 soon asleep ; but alas, my repose was of no long duration. 
 It was still dark when I was suddenly awakened by a fearful 
 noise, a perfect chaos of sounds, just below my window. 
 Rising in bed to recover nn^self, and remember where I was, 
 the clamor seemed to gradually die away. Presently the 
 turmoil was renewed with greater energy, in the shape of 
 frightful, discordant bellowing, caused by the recent arrival 
 of a cattle-train. As far as regards fear, my mind was at 
 rest, but the constant din effectually deprived me of all 
 chances of sleep. 
 
 By daylight I was not long in finding my friend's house, 
 to which I was admitted fully an hour before he had risen. 
 When he and his wife came, the relation of my night's ad- 
 ventures made them both laugh heartily ; but the lady liked 
 the little episode of the vision in white at the evening party 
 the best. However, a good breakfast and cheerful morning's 
 chat, with a fine, fragrant havana afterwards, soon set me to 
 rights, and we both started to the ferry-boat for New York. 
 
 The Deluge at Johnstown, Penn., April and May, 1889. 
 
 Before leaving this section of the book, a few words re- 
 specting the dreadful disaster at Johnstown may be read with 
 interest. All the civilized world was shocked to learn of the 
 fearful deluge. The anguish and heart-rending scenes 
 enacted on that eventful night of visitation are without par- 
 allel in this century. The rushing waters poured down from 
 the broken embankment, caused by the wilful neglect and 
 unheeded warnings of the rottenness of the dam, culminating 
 
198 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 in the loss of those hurried to eternity by the deluge of seeth- 
 ing waters from the weakened reservoir ; thus sweeping away 
 at a blow hundreds of innocent lives and fifteen hundred 
 homes of men, women, and children. The imagination can- 
 not carry one sufficiently to the anguished cry for help of the 
 drowning multitude, as they beheld their dear ones sinking 
 into the roaring torrent before their very eyes. As time 
 rolls on, the town will be rebuilt, probably on its old land- 
 marks, and the deluge of the valley of death will in part be 
 forgotten, to make room for other calamities of wind and 
 tide, though we trust of less degree ; but no time can erase 
 the thought of how weak we mortals are, when compared to 
 a convulsion of Nature like this, when angry waters get 
 beyond their limit, and death and destruction are the result, 
 and our boastful supremacy of strength is as a straw floating 
 against the fierce billows of the ocean's tide. 
 
 The Mammoth Cave of Kentucky. 
 
 On the great continent of America, Nature is to be seen in 
 all her immensity and sublimity, on a most gigantic scale. 
 Her lakes of inland seas, her rivers, her cataracts and great 
 rapids, her mountains and valleys, are all silent and wonder- 
 giving attestations of what we say as to the sublime and 
 majestic grandeur which characterizes them, one and all. 
 Poets, painters, and tourists have written and painted their 
 praises, with pen and brush, with all fidelity ; but, naturally, 
 descriptions are feeble and futile, compared to the great 
 reality of this wondrous land. And as the Mammoth Cave 
 of Kentucky is so astoundingly wonderful, and comparatively 
 but little known to the masses of mankind, the narrator will 
 endeavor to describe it, and lay a few facts of reliable in- 
 formation and character before his reader, which he thinks 
 may prove interesting. 
 
 The traveller from the Eastern States, intending to visit 
 the Mammoth Cave of Kentucky, would go by way of Cin- 
 cinnati (the Queen City of the AVest), then to Louisville, one 
 hundred and thirty-three miles. Ninety miles farther on 
 towards Nashville the tourist reaches a comfortable inn, 
 called " Bell's Hotel," which makes a good halting-place for 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 199 
 
 refreshment; thence about ten miles more, and the lt Cave 
 Hotel " is reached ; which being quite adjacent to the won- 
 drous cave,, all anxiety for a comfortable abode is over. 
 The hotel has been enlarged from time to time, to meet the 
 wants of increasing visitors. The " Cave Hotel " is very 
 spacious in its accommodations, and the annexes being sur- 
 rounded by colonnades and piazzas, the visitor can have ex- 
 ercise under cover, during wet weather. Venison and other 
 good things are here in abundance, and a fiue kitchen garden 
 and orchard furnish vegetables and fruits for the table. 
 Many of the parties lodged at the hotel are in the habit of 
 exploring the cave more than once. 
 
 And now for the " Cave," unequalled by any other known 
 in the world. In order to explore only one of its avenues, 
 which is nine miles long, the visitor starts immediately after 
 breakfast. The entrance to the cave is about two hundred 
 yards from the back of the hotel ; leaving it, the tourists 
 pass down a beautiful ravine, having on each side towering- 
 trees, their foliage forming a magnificent arch overhead, so 
 umbrageous as to shutout all sight of the blue sky. Around 
 and about grape-vines are entwined, which flourish in fine 
 luxuriance. It is a charming and romantic spot, descending 
 gradually to the bottom of the dell, and turning sharply 
 round to the right hand, the visitor approaches the entrance 
 to the Mammoth Cave. He is now at its arch, having made 
 a descent of some thirty feet of rude stone steps. A small 
 stream of water here falls from the front of the crowning 
 rock, its dripping sounds being wild and weird ; the abyss 
 below receives it. Let the visitor now look backward ; all is 
 utter gloom, enough to make him exclaim, "This is chaos ! " 
 
 Each company is accompanied by an experienced guide, 
 who places in each of their hands a lamp, which he furnishes 
 with oil from a canteen swung around his back. The jour- 
 ney underground is then commenced. The first objects which 
 attract attention are wooden troughs, which conducted the 
 water in its descent to the " hoppers " or mills, when the 
 cave was used for the manufacture of saltpetre. Having 
 proceeded onward, a doorway is reached, set in a rough stone 
 wall, stretched crossways, and so blocking up the entire 
 cavern. We proceed through this passage, which is called 
 
200 RAMBLES .IN AMERICA. 
 
 the " Narrows," then make a gradual descend, and we are in 
 the great antechamber of the cave. How awful and solemn 
 is the surrounding darkness ; no glimmer of light anywhere ; 
 blackness reigns triumphant, around and above you ! The 
 guide now lights a few fires, and the effect is truly wonder- 
 ful. More than a hundred feet above your head is a gray 
 ceiling, at once majestic and spectral ; then appear buttresses 
 and stalagmite columns, and intricate and delicate draperies 
 in this weird chamber. We all remain silent, as if awe- 
 struck with the dumb beaut} T of the underground region, 
 which causes a sensation in the brain of utter and tingling 
 bewilderment. 
 
 To give anything approaching a thorough description of 
 the cavern is far from our purpose, as indeed it would fill a 
 volume of its own. In fact, no writer can fully describe 
 this marvellous excavation of Nature's handiwork. At right 
 angles are two passages running into this huge chamber. 
 The passage on the right is designated the " Bat room," 
 where tens of thousands of these ominous-looking creatures 
 are seen hanging from the walls, seemingly dead or torpid 
 during the winter, but when spring comes the place knows 
 them no more. Those visitors who enter the great bat 
 chamber will have a suspicion that they are passiug into 
 infinite space. This impression will continue for some time ; 
 the walls of the cave are so dark as not to admit a single 
 reflection from the torches carried on ordinary occasions. 
 
 The wayfarer now enters the main cave, or grand gallery. 
 This is a wonderful tunnel, and extends for some miles ; it 
 is a truly magnificent avenue, filled with objects of great 
 interest to the naturalist and all inquiring minds. Just 
 picture to yourself an immense wall lit up as if by magic 
 (t, e., Bengal lights) , with its carved cornices and sculptured 
 or arabesqued architraves, coming and going, in its flicker- 
 ing, brilliant phantasm. 
 
 The Star Chamber is considered by most visitors to be one 
 of the grandest and most impressive of the sights of this 
 underground region. It is a superb, long hall, with perpen- 
 dicular arches on either side, and a flat ceiling ; the side 
 rocks are of a light color, and stand out in bold relief against 
 the dark, shady ceiling, which is studded with innumerable 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 201 
 
 sparkling substances, resembling stars. The guide at this 
 chamber takes the lantern from each visitor, and places 
 them in a hole in the rock, to subdue the light, enhancing 
 the effect, and making the illusion more perfect. 
 
 The narrator would weary the reader with minute descrip- 
 tions of the Crystal Chamber, Echo Halls, stalactitic domes, 
 Church Chambers, gothic rooms (with natural pulpits), 
 Devil's Arm-chair, Elephant's Head, Lovers' Leap, also many 
 others, which are so replete with wonders, as truly naturally 
 formed chambers or avenues of the grand work of the Crea- 
 tor, that, like looking on the sublime Niagara or the grand 
 and picturesque " Giant's Causeway,'* one feels lost in admi- 
 ration of the really bewildering and gigantic beauties of 
 these created wonders of the world ! 
 
 The Bottomless Pit, like a ' horseshoe in form, has a 
 tongue of land twenty -seven feet long, which runs out in the 
 middle of it From the extremity of this land, a bridge of 
 substantial workmanship has been thrown o\ertothe cave 
 on the opposite side. .Some idea of the derth of the pit, 
 and of the awe which a contemplation of it arouses, may be 
 imagined, when we state that it is the custom of the guides 
 to let down pieces of lighted paper into the ab\ ss below, 
 wh ; ch, descending lower and lower, ultimately vanish from 
 the vision, though long before they are burnt out or extin- 
 tinguished. • 
 
 The Snow-ball Room, as it is called, is well worthy of 
 notice, being some two hundred feet in length; and if a 
 number of school-boys had just finished their day's sport by 
 throwing some thousands of snow-balls against the roof, 
 while a similar number lay in confusion about the floor, and 
 all petrified, it would present just such a scene as you wit- 
 ness in this hall of Natuie's earthly frolic. These petrified 
 snow- balls (so say the scientists) are a perfect anomaly 
 among all the extraordinary forms of crystallization. They 
 result, it is supposed, from unusual combination of the 
 sulphate of lime and magnesia, with carbonate of the for- 
 mer. 
 
 The Styx River is the smallest river in the Mammoth Cave ; 
 havii g passed it, the tourist finds himself on the banks of the 
 Lethe River. The rugged, abrupt rock scenery at this point 
 
202 RAMBLES IX AMERICA. 
 
 is very grand and imposing. "The boats in use here are built 
 to carry twelve persons in each ; the passage down the river 
 is replete with suppressed pleasure, and novel and weird-like 
 feeling of romantic interest. The wonderful character of the 
 place and surrounding scenes, and its cavernous magnifi- 
 cence, must naturally cause mingled feelings of awe and 
 admiration. The rippling of the current gives a subdued 
 and musical cadence to the ear ; and so powerfully does 
 sound vibrate and repeat itself in this section of the cavern, 
 that the report of a pistol is like some heavy artillery in its 
 echoes of thunderings and murmurings, dying away in the 
 far distance. While gliding down this stream of Lethe, 
 oftentimes a whole boat's company have joined in song, 
 spontaneous, as it were — the effect has been ( ne of solemnity 
 and joyousness ; and when a full band of music has been 
 tried on the P2cho River, what the result has been can better 
 be imagined than described. 
 
 The EcIjo River is three miles in length, and it is in this 
 river, and others in Mammoth Cave, that those very extraor- 
 dinary fish, the "white eyeless," are to be found. On a 
 close and minute inspection of these fish, not any appear- 
 ance of an eye is distinguishable, nor have the skilful anato- 
 mists of all times, who have experimented on these curious 
 specimens of the finny tribe, been more successful. Indeed, 
 it has been asserted by scientists, naturalises, and men 
 eminent in their professions, that these fishes are not only 
 without eyes, but also portray other anomalies in their organ- 
 ization highly interesting to lovers of science. Some writers 
 also affirm that animals of the rat species, yet half rabbits, 
 with many other breathing and visual oddities, are to be 
 found in these underground regions. At the time the rivers 
 of the Mammoth Cave were first crossed (1840) and since, 
 several endeavors were and have been made to discover 
 whence the '"white eyeless" come, and also whither they 
 go; though various conjectures have been formed, yet noth- 
 ing definite or satisfactory has come to pass. All is still 
 in doubt, and will continue so, w T e presume, to the end of 
 time. 
 
 The barometrical measurement of the rivers in the Mam- 
 moth Cave has been frequently taken ; but scientific men 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 203 
 
 cannot agree on the subject. The prevailing opinion of the 
 rivers is, that they are emptied into the Green River, the 
 Ohio, or the ocean ; they must run a great distance under 
 ground, and have a very trifling descent. Most accounts agree 
 that these rivers in question are generally pure and fresh water ; 
 while the mineral springs and other medicinal waters are much 
 sought after by consumptive and dyspeptic patients. 
 
 As the salubrious air of the Mammoth Cave is a great 
 promoter of appetite, after some hours of rambling, the 
 contents of lunch baskets are in great requisition, and a 
 large, flat rock, called the " Dining Table," at the termina- 
 tion of Cleveland Avenue, is often used in lieu of more 
 domestic furniture ; and as many as one hundred visitors 
 have set around this Nature's table, and regaled and rested 
 themselves. Here, by the aid of guides, the banquet is 
 often spread; the tourists, being in the cave from morn till 
 dewy eve, greatly need the refreshment. In the midst of 
 laughter and story-telling, after sitting awhile, the enjoy- 
 ment is abruptly broken by a hint from the guide that the 
 river may possibly rise, and their retreat be cut off ; then 
 how sudden is the move ; the uplifted morsel is dropped 
 from the mouth, and what a rattle and gathering up of 
 plates, dishes, knives, forks, etc., there is ! But it is only a 
 ruse of the chief guide, to get the sight-seers out of the 
 cave before midnight. 
 
 The effect on entering the outer world again is somewhat 
 peculiar. With a grateful feeling of relief one emerges 
 from the cavernous researches, and looks on the fair earth 
 with renewed pleasure ; though the ten hours of instructive 
 study just witnessed is uppermost in the thoughts of all, as 
 they wend their way to the pleasant home comforts of the 
 Hotel de Cave. 
 
 The ownership of the Mammoth Cave is in the possession 
 of St. George Groghan, Esq., son of the late Dr. Groghan. 
 The proprietor is a resident of Louisville, and a gentleman 
 of great enterprise. He has made many discoveries in the 
 cave, and altered parts of avenues of low altitudes to con- 
 venient walking promenades. It is said visitors seldom or 
 ever contract cold on entering or departing from the cave. 
 No noxious or dangerous animals or reptiles trouble the 
 
204 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 caverns with their presence. No impurity of air is ever 
 experienced in the cave's recesses ; in every part of this 
 region combustion is perfect. Decomposition, and its loath- 
 some adjunct, putrefaction, is unknown there. The water 
 of the cave is exquisitely pure, and is generally fresh; and, 
 as before mentioned, has one or two sulphur spiings. There 
 are two hundred and twenty-six avenues in this magnificent 
 cave, forty-seven domes, eight cataracts, and twenty-three 
 pits. The tempeiature of the place is 59° Fahrenheit, and 
 it remains precisely the same, winter and summer. No 
 sound — not even the loudest peal of thunder — can lie 
 heard beyond the distance of one quarter of a mile in the 
 cave. 
 
 In concluding this sketch of the eighth wonder of the 
 world, the narrator, ere he closes, would warn the venture- 
 some tourist not to leave the presence of the guide by stray- 
 ing away, in too e-iger anticipation of exploring, as the 
 following incident will relate : — 
 
 Some years ago, a young man (a miner), new to the cave, 
 was sent with an older workman to the Salt Room, for the 
 purpose of digging a few sacks of the required article ; the 
 young fellow — like most young men — was a little vain, and 
 wishing to show off his bravery, declined the older man's 
 advice and warning, and went off alone farther in the inte- 
 rior. Several hours elapsed, and the wanderer not return- 
 ing, his companion and fellow-workmen became alarmed. A 
 consultation was speedily held, and six volunteers arranged 
 to search ; they were negroes, and previous to their starting 
 on their errand of mercy were stripped half naked. It may 
 therefore be imagined how extraordinary was their appear- 
 ance. The young miner, in the mean while, had of course 
 lost his way, stumbled over a rock, and dropped his lamp, 
 which was immediately extinguished. The frightened man 
 prayed for help in his terror, but hours passed away, and he 
 in utter darkness was conjuring up all manner of demoniacal 
 fancies ; madness almost seized him ; he thought he had 
 quitted earth, was disembodied — in fact, he was in the place 
 of torments reserved for sinners. He tried to gaze around 
 him. Merciful powers! what were those moving figures? 
 He had never seen anything hke them. They were spirits 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 205 
 
 sent to drag him to punishment ! He heard their yells. 
 Were ever mortal voices like the wild outburst ringing in his 
 ears? Never, never! Nearer and nearer they come. He 
 tries, in his wild, agonized delirium, to beat them off. It is 
 too late, for still they come ; he is conscious of their hot and 
 hissing breath ; their arms are outstretched to clutch him ; he 
 will soon be in their embrace fast locked. Horrible ! Horri- 
 ble ! They have him — they are not devils, but miners like 
 himself. He soon recognizes his fellow-workmen, and knows 
 that he is a saved man! "Hurrah! hurrah! hurrah!" 
 Never did the Mammoth Cave reverberate with such hearty 
 shouts as on the memorable occasion of the miner's rescue. 
 In the words of the poet, we might say : — 
 
 " Father, how wide thy glory shines, 
 How high thy wonders rise! 
 Known through the earth by thousand signs, 
 By thousands through the skies. 
 
 " For the grandeur of thy nature, 
 Grandbeyond a seraph's thought; 
 For the wonders of creation, 
 Works with skill and kindness wrought." 
 
 Since writing the above respecting the Mammoth Cave, 
 Louisville, Ky., on March 28, 1890, suffered a disaster un- 
 precedented in the history of this State, — that of a cyclone 
 of fifteen minutes' duration, devastating the city, and de- 
 stroying nearly one hundred lives and two thousand five hun- 
 dred peaceful homes. The terrible whirlwind passed on to 
 adjacent towns with its relentless fury, and sacrificed life and 
 property as long as the tornado swept across the face of the 
 unfortunate country. 
 
 From Boston to Chicago. 
 
 The night ride in an excursion train from Boston to 
 Chicago is full of interest. Starting in the bewildering 
 darkness from the Boston & Lowell depot, we emerged into 
 the far distant country with great rapidity ; the passengers' 
 lively talking, in the confusion and ex< itement of getting 
 off, simmers down to incoherent murmurs, then to silence, 
 until the conductor of the train passes through for tickets, 
 
206 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 thus awakening up some irritable old man or woman. A 
 change of engine and engineers takes place every so many 
 miles in long-distance travel ; also a change of conductors 
 and brakemen about every fifty miles. 
 
 The rush for breakfast next morning at the first stopping 
 place was very amusing, each person jolting the other, as 
 twenty minutes ate only allowed, and the bewildered attend- 
 ants are flying hither and thither at the clamoring demands 
 made to satisfy the "inner man." Many a character of 
 strong mind could be observed at those times, the noisy and 
 boisterous getting their fill long before the more timid and 
 diffident get anything. Bashfulness does not pa} 7 on the 
 road ; one must lose his identity for a time, to live at all on 
 railway journeys of some hundreds of miles 
 
 On arriving at Burlington, Vt., news of President Gar- 
 field's untimely death reached our ears, and words more 
 forcible than polite were expressed in vengeance against the 
 assassin, Guiteau. As we push on towards the Canadian 
 frontier, custom-house officers board the train, and examine 
 our baggage, valises, etc., which causes much fluttering 
 and excitement amongst the lady passengers, most of whom 
 imagine they have something in their satchel chargeable for 
 excise duty. 
 
 When we arrived at Montreal we found all public and pri- 
 vate buildings draped with mourning emblems of woe, and 
 flags were half-mast high, the " Union Jack" and the " Stars 
 and Stripes" side by side, in solemn rivalry, as it were ; each 
 ensign endeavoring to pay veneration to the murdered Presi- 
 dent. 
 
 Montreal. 
 
 The city of Montreal is reached by crossing the Victoria tubu- 
 lar bridge, over the St. Lawrence River. The structure is built 
 of iron, with stone supports, and the ventilation of the huge 
 tube is attained by a kind of port-holes at intervals, making 
 a curious, subdued light within. The length of the bridge is 
 unknown to the writer, but it must be some hundreds of 
 feet, and is a magnificent work of engineering skill. 
 
 The Montreal railway depot was one of the worst ap- 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 207 
 
 pointed stations to be seen in any city of its size ; dirty, 
 ill-managed, and inconvenient. 
 
 No proper waiting-rooms or lavatory were provided, and 
 the tramp-like appearance of the weary travellers from all 
 parts of the habitable globe, sitting on rough benches or 
 on the floor, gave the aspect of the place a " Castle Garden " 
 look, without its order or cleanliness. The building itself 
 was a very poor one, and somewhat of a disgrace to the 
 Canadian authorities of so important a city ; the difference 
 being very noticeable after travelling through the large cities 
 of the States, and seeing some of their well-appointed rail- 
 way stations. 
 
 Fair at Montreal. 
 
 Having to wait some ten hours for arrangements of the 
 railway people for another locomotive, gave us a fine oppor- 
 tunity to visit the annual agricultural fair, held on the out- 
 skirts of Montreal ; and it is but justice to say, the quantity 
 and quality of the stock exhibited was the finest we had seen 
 on this continent ; the immense enclosures and pens for 
 cattle were surprisingly large. Great amusement was here 
 for the sight-seers — horse and pony racing for prizes, and 
 plenty of good music. The military bands accompanying 
 the lieutenant-governor and his escort being on the fair 
 grounds, gave a great edat to the whole proceedings. We 
 were told some thirty thousand persons were present at-this 
 agricultural meeting, while the mixed -patois of the Canadians 
 sounded somewhat strangely to an English ear. 
 
 Montreal Catholic cathedral is a fine edifice, with some 
 magnificent paintings on its sacred walls. 
 
 Toronto. 
 
 Once more in the cars, we again pressed onward, and 
 reached Toronto after some hours' ride. The welcome stay 
 of half an hour for refreshments was well spent, and invig- 
 orated the -weary traveller. Coffee, tea, cold chicken, sand- 
 wiches, and lager beer were disposed of very quickly, and 
 relished exceedingly, as no other opportunity for comforting 
 the inner man would occur for fourteen hours. Dunns: our 
 
208 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 short stop at Toronto it was noticeable that the railway 
 officials swept out the cars, opcuing the doors and windows 
 to let in pure air, a very necessary precaution, as some pas- 
 sengers must needs spend their time in apple-paring and 
 eating peanuts, leaving the shells as a sort of remembrance 
 of their slovenliness in the long car-ride. 
 
 Toron;o depot is just the reverse of Montreal, being 
 cleanly, spacious, and well looked after, and with good 
 waiting and refreshment rooms; the structure appeared 
 newly erected, well ventilated, and lofty. 
 
 At 12, noon, the bell of the locomotive rung its signal for 
 departure ; we scampered to our seats, and away we went, 
 tearing and dashing through the country the rest of the day 
 and all the following night ; while at every town or village, 
 mourning flags and streamers of bunting waved sadl} T in the 
 wind, sighing, as it were, a mournful requiem on the tragic 
 death of the nation's favorite. Screaming, panting, and 
 rushing along, the " iron horse" gallantly carries its load of 
 human freight in the great line of cars towards our destina- 
 tion ; and as evening again closes in, conversation gradually 
 subsides, and men, women, and children nod and sway once 
 more with the oscillation of the swift transit, till finally all 
 ej'es are closed in forgetfulness of fatigue, except when the 
 tired wife leans her head more comfortably on her husband's 
 shoulder, or the devoted lover rearranges the wraps for the 
 twentieth time for his darling. Presently the car door 
 dashes open for another inspection of tickets by the new and 
 relentless conductor ; the sleepy passengers slowly awake to 
 consciousness, inwardly vowing vengeance on the Grand 
 Trunk Railway Company's rules, show their tickets, get 
 them punched, turn over and go to sleep again, if possible. 
 
 The travelling public are great water drinkers ; if anything 
 displeases an American (male or female), it is the lack of 
 water supply. The repetitions of the doses of the beverage, 
 out of dirty pitchers find glasses, were surprising to behold. 
 A constant trot to the filter or receptacle is kept up, night 
 and day ; or if a car-boy brings the watery fluid along, 
 numerous outstretched hands are seen to grasp the misty- 
 looking glasses, to satisfy the ever-thirsty souls. .Some others 
 of the passengers strengthen themselves by drinking, on the 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 209 
 
 sly, something stronger than water, with all the innocence of 
 old campaigners of the rum or cordial bottle. 
 
 Port Royal.' 
 
 On reaching Port Royal the cars are placed on steam fer- 
 ries, and we were transported across Lake George, and are 
 again in the United States, though not before the Canadian 
 custom-house officials gave us a token of their regards as a 
 farewell souvenir, by coming around with their eagle eyes to 
 once more inspect our valises and travelling satchels, detain- 
 ing some and passing others, causing much anxiety amongst 
 the ladies, who perchance had bought some articles in Mon- 
 treal, and were afraid of their being confiscated. 
 
 As we proceeded further westward, we observed miles of 
 freight cars, with upper and lower compartments for hogs, 
 and cars full of oxen lined the side tracks, just come in from 
 the far West ; the poor animals seemed very jaded and quiet 
 in their narrow, penned-up places, awaiting their final desti- 
 nation and destruction. The immense number of hogs seen 
 on the road are almost bewildering, so that one is apt to 
 think the forests of the far Western world must be overrun 
 with these animals. We could always tell, even when a long 
 distance away (if the wind blew in our direction) , the vicinity 
 of the " large pig tribe," for the effluvia from their hides was 
 very powerful, and not a pleasant perfume. 
 
 Chicago. 
 
 After many delays, to allow other trains to pass, and 
 several false alarms, we at last sighted Chicago, or rather, 
 the suburbs. The grand junction of the railway companies 
 of the West is at this point, and forms many miles of freight 
 cars, of all colors, shapes, and sizes. The land in this dis- 
 tiict appeared of the most fertile kind ; black, loamy earth on 
 all sides seems to abound at the commencement of the prairie 
 soil. 
 
 A good impression of Chicago is not gained from the 
 outskirts of the city. Before alighting at the depot of 
 the Grand Trunk Railway, busy men on the dirty, grimy 
 
210 RAMBLES IX AMERICA. 
 
 wharves meet the eye everywhere ; the din and noise were 
 most deafening, and the muddy waters about the wharfage 
 had a very sickening look ; added to which the soft-coal 
 smoke of the numerous tug steamers and locomotives causes 
 a gloomy look to the surrounding atmosphere, and a sense 
 of depression to the new-comer in the city. 
 
 But once away from all this, in the city proper, quite a 
 revulsion of feeling pervades the visitor on his arrival. 
 Elegant hotels of immense dimensions and magnificent public 
 buildings meet the eye in the principal thoroughfares, and 
 fine business stores in the chief streets of commerce are some 
 of the leading features here. Also showy restaurants and 
 lager beer saloons, with large placards on the outside, notify- 
 ing that a free lunch is ready to be served on that day ; soup, 
 fried sausages, and other dainties are given away, so that 
 the purchase of a glass of beer entitles the hungry man to 
 all this free entertainment of liberty ; and the first-class 
 arrangements of these bar-rooms bear good comparison with 
 most of the dingy saloons of other cities in the Union. 
 
 The business of all kinds done in Chicago must be im- 
 mense for so young a city ; such hurrying to and fro of 
 the people, in the same excitable manner as the New Yorkers 
 have in their thronged thoroughfares. 
 
 To describe Chicago would take a volume of its own, but 
 a few leading remarks to my readers may not be deemed 
 inappropriate. In the telling of the rapid growth of this 
 Western city, one cannot go back of the present century — 
 in fact, hardly previous to this generation ; and yet in that 
 brief space of time it has accomplished what would have 
 required hundreds of years in more pretentious places, and 
 generations not been able to achieve for any other city on 
 the Western continent. 
 
 While the entire population of the county in which Chicago 
 is situated was only 10,201 in 1«40, the city alone in 1881 
 numbered more than 500,000 persons; and in 18!)0 the gov- 
 ernment census enumerates Chicago at 1,101,253 people, 
 and it now ranks the second city in the Union. The growth 
 of commerce and business for the same time has not been 
 lacking to the increase in population. In 1850, the manu- 
 facturers and wholesale dealers did a business of $20,000,- 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 211 
 
 000; this had increased to $764,000,000 in 1879. In the 
 year 1880 it had reached 8910,000,000. 
 
 It must be borne in mind that during the last number of 
 years the city of Chicago has passed through an ordeal of 
 fire second to none in modern times. Between the sunset 
 of Sunday, Oct. 9, 1871, and the same hour of the succeed- 
 ing day, there were destroyed in the very heart of the city 
 17.450 buildings, which, with the property contained in them, 
 represented more than two hundred million dollars ; and yet 
 only eight years after, the city was rebuilt in greater magnifi- 
 cence and splendor, and has almost doubled its population. 
 
 The Crib. 
 
 Chicago is supplied with water by two colossal pumping- 
 works, with the enormous pumping capacity of 76,000,000 
 gallons per da} r , both drawing their supply from the same 
 source, called the" Crib," situated over two miles out in 
 Lake Michigan, and to which a small steamer conveys visit- 
 ors twice a day, to view the apparatus or pumping works. 
 Just previous to our leaving the wharf in the steamer for the 
 "Crib," a drunken man tried to get on board, when he 
 slipped and fell overboard into the murky water ; the screams 
 of the ladies and the coolness of some Germans, eating pea- 
 nuts, who never moved in any way, or left off munching the 
 nuts, were very amusing ; the man was fished out, partially 
 sobered, and taken, half bewildered, to some other "crib" 
 by a policeman. 
 
 The Chicago River provides more than forty miles of dock- 
 age, and Lake Michigan furnishes an outlet to the seaports 
 of the world, by way of the great chain of lakes and the St. 
 Lawrence River ; while the great railroads radiating from all 
 directions put the city in communication with the world by 
 land. By the statistics of the post-office department, Chicago 
 is only second in the amount of post-office business trans- 
 acted. 
 
 The streets of Chicago are like the avenues of New York, 
 running at right angles, and are easy to the stranger in find- 
 ing his way around, as all directions are by the points of the 
 compass, north, south, east, and west. The streets in the 
 
212 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 best localities are well paved with macadamized roads, and 
 in some parts with wood blocks. 
 
 Since the big fire of 1871, great improvements have been 
 made in the new public buildings ; fine structures have been 
 erected in the place of the old wooden dwellings and shan- 
 ties, the most noticeable being the new post-office, custom 
 house, and court house, all of them colossal in size, built of 
 granite, and of good design. 
 
 Palmer House. 
 
 The hotels, such as the Palmer House, about defy descrip- 
 tion. The magnificence of this establishment is almost be- 
 yond comparison in grandeur. It stands on a large area of 
 ground in one square block, and is built of granite ; the in- 
 terior arrangements are such as to suit the most fastidious ; 
 elegance and comfort are here combined, and the well- 
 trained colored attendants are very polite and attentive. 
 In truth, the Palmer House is an abode of bewildering 
 space, luxuriousness, and ease, with everything for the well- 
 appointed table that money can purchase, from the prairie 
 chicken to the sweet-eating lake perch. The interior deco- 
 rations of this hotel are superb, and the entrance hall of 
 tesselated pavement is very fine : the whole surroundings 
 are such as we Eastern people could hardly believe to exist 
 in a Western city of such rapid growth. 
 
 Electric Light in Chicago. 
 
 Nearly all the large hotels and business premises are 
 lighted by electricity, a noted tailor's establishment having 
 as many as sixty small electric lights, and the customers in 
 the oyster saloon basement of the large building appeared 
 like a sepulchral race of beings, all blue and steely-looking, 
 by the action of the luminary, as if they were moon-struck 
 while devouring the bivalves. The strong electric light in 
 many parts of the city gives a poor reflection to where the 
 old-style gas jets flit their feeble rays. Some writers on 
 Chicago have said that much bad element exists among its 
 citizens in the city's midst ; if it does, one has to look 
 
KAMBLES IN AMERICA. 213 
 
 around for it, as in any other large city. The people here 
 we found, as a rule, courteous, agreeable, and off-hand, 
 quick in manner, and all seemed bent on making money and 
 spending it. 
 
 On one of the sultry days we went for a few hours' fishing 
 on Lake Michigan, whose waters wash the esplanade of the 
 windy city. A tug steamer took us about two miles in the 
 stream to a long pier, then in process of erection ; poles and 
 lines were provided at small cost, and we found men, 
 women, and children by the hundreds fishing awa} r , and 
 catching the finny tribe as soon as the lines were thrown in ; 
 a pailful of fine perch could he taken in two or three hours. 
 While intently watching for a bite, a stranger at my side 
 deliberately drew from his hip pocket a pistol, and dis- 
 charged the weapon so quickly and kept firing so rapidly at 
 some wild ducks a short distance off, that one felt a little 
 farther down the pier was advisable, as the ever-ready pistol, 
 the curse of this country, is always on hand for bird or man. 
 
 Sunday in Chicago. 
 
 Chicago on a Sunday is a free and easy place, so many 
 beer saloons open all day in high glory ; also some business 
 stores, though the better portion remain closed as in any 
 other city. '1 he theatres are mostly open, excepting Hav- 
 erley's ; matinees in the afternoon, crowds surging in for 
 tickets on the Sabbath like any other day. We were told 
 that the Western German and Bohemian element in a man- 
 ner control affairs here, and the authorities either will not or 
 dare not inteifere with such a state of things. Gambling is 
 much carried on in this as in most Western cities. 
 
 By the Chicago newspaper accounts on Monda}* mornings, 
 one would think most of the crime of the week is committed 
 in the low dives, saloons, or singing-halls on Sunday even- 
 ings ; clubbing and shooting (sometimes fatally) are the 
 results of this baneful disregard of the Sabbath day. They 
 seem to act as if Sunday was nothing to them ; excursions 
 here, there, and everywhere ; mone}--making and pleasure- 
 seeking run riot, to the utter exclusion of everything else. 
 Naturally, numbers of good, respectable families deplore 
 
214 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 this desecration of the holy day, and some of the clergymen 
 condemn it in a mild way in their churches ; but the earnest- 
 ness seems wanting to suppress it, and the system lias grown 
 up with the new city as part and parcel of its government. 
 One might say with Shakespeare at such a time as this : — 
 
 "A gloomy picture this morning with it brings ; 
 The sun for sorry will not show his head." 
 
 We found that in consequence of the cutting of rates, a 
 great deal of travel was done between Kansas, Chicago, and 
 other cities, coming and going to alt points ; some visiting 
 long neglected parents, others to see brothers and sisters 
 and family connections, after many years' absence. A fine- 
 looking young man journeyed fourteen hundred miles to see 
 his aged father, and recalled how he hoped to find the old 
 man well, and how he longed to see him, to hear his loved 
 voice again, after so many years' separation ; and then 
 thought of the good-by, perhaps for the last time. The 
 young fellow's eyes dimmed when he realized this, and 
 he said, " Sir, I am afraid this is my last visit to the old 
 
 man ! " 
 
 "And swiftly will the destiny close on us." 
 
 Kansas Boy in Chicago. 
 
 Riding on the horse-car to one of the parks hereabout, a 
 bright-eyed, brown-cheeked boy sat beside me, with a rifle on 
 his knee. On questioning him about the use of the tire-arm, 
 he smiled as he answered me naively, kt I have come all the 
 way from Kansas to Chicago, on purpose to buy a little 
 stock of ball cartridges for my rifle, because we cannot 
 get them at home so good." So many hundred miles for 
 such a purchase seemed astounding ; but the smart youngster 
 explained that he was fourteen years old, that himself and 
 another boy of his own age were hunters in the woods in 
 Kansas ; and that they got their living so many months of 
 the year by shooting birds and taking them to towns and 
 selling them ; and they also earned some money for destroy- 
 ing obnoxious little animals which were a pest to the farmers' 
 crops, and for the riddance of which the young hunters 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 215 
 
 received a small bounty per head. With their parents' con- 
 sent, these youngsters lived their wild life, and from the art- 
 less way in which he spoke of it, one had no reason to 
 discredit the story. On asking about his return to Kansas, 
 he stiid, " I came here yesterday, and I am off to-night. I 
 have got my stock of bullets, and I am all right ; so good-by 
 to you, sir." 
 
 Theatres in Chicago. 
 
 Chicago has several good theatres. We visited two of 
 them. Haverley's new opera house, just then finished build- 
 ing, is a spacious structure, and would seat a large assemblage. 
 The interior decorations were somewhat coarse and showy- 
 looking, giving the idea of a sort of gingerbread look to the 
 place. We were told the theatre was built in a short time, 
 which perhnps accounted for the quick way of doing the 
 decorative work of the proscenium and ceiling. However, 
 a good, roomy stage and excellent scenery gave the oppor- 
 tunity for doing full justice to one of Shakespeare's comedies, 
 both in stage appointments and players, Messrs. Rohson and 
 Crane, and their daughters, playing the chief characters. 
 
 McVicker's Theatre is an older place of amusement, and 
 like all opera houses a few years built, has begun to look 
 dingy and faded. The same might be said of New York, 
 London, and Paris theatres ; the gas and bad atmospheric 
 ventilation ruin all good artistic coloring in a very short 
 time. 
 
 During our stay in this city we heard the Rev. Mr Swing 
 give an elaborate oration on the death of Gen. Garfield, in a 
 large and commodious Music Hall, of very superior character 
 for sight and sound ; also we heard some good solo singing, 
 and a well-trained choir added to the enjoyment (a solemn 
 one) on that occasion. Our party went on Sunday evening 
 to a large Methodist gathering, the theme being also on the 
 President's tragic death ; speakers of eminence were there, 
 and spoke their thoughts very fluently. Some of the church 
 services in Chicago seem to be held in large halls, over stores, 
 and we had some difficulty in finding our particular one, up 
 two flights of stairs, right opposite a large showily lighted 
 
216 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 saloon. The position seemed inappropriate to the sacred 
 character of its calling, but the residents did not appear to 
 be annoyed. 
 
 A visit to the fire department of this city is an interesting 
 one, consisting, as it does, of three hundred and seventy-six 
 officers and men, and corresponding number of hose and 
 hook and ladder companies. 
 
 There are about two thousand acres of ground in and 
 about Chicago devoted to parks, and when completed by im- 
 provements they will be fine recreation grounds for the 
 people ; the cost of securing this laud was five million dol- 
 lars. 
 
 There are several tunnels in Chicago, the most prominent 
 of which is Lake Tunnel, completed in 1865, extending from 
 the water-works to the "Crib' in the lake, two miles long, 
 through which the water is conducted to the main works, 
 supplying the city with as pure water as can be found in the 
 world. 
 
 Racine. 
 
 Racine is situated about sixty -five miles from Chicago, on 
 Lake Michigan, and the sail by steamer in fine weather must 
 be very delightful, but unfortunately our day changed from 
 fair weather to foul ; and as we had heard such alarming 
 accounts of Lake Michigan's fury when in a storm, it did not 
 allay our fears. Numerous and fatal shipwrecks happen in 
 the rough and boisterous season of these " inland seas," 
 steamers and sailing vessels foundering at times in their 
 treacherous waters, with all on board ; however, it was not 
 so bad with us. 
 
 We arrived safely at Racine, a small city or t >wnship of 
 18,000 inhabitants. The trade chiefly carried on here is in 
 carriages of durable manufacture, wagons, trunks, britanuia 
 ware, and other metals. The town is situated on the banks 
 of Lake Michigan, and many fine residences are seen of self- 
 made men of the place, who either partly own the stock of 
 the busy factories, or are superintendents of the same. 
 
 A kind friend entertained t'ie writer at his home on arrival, 
 and as it was Saturday evening (promenade night in country 
 towns), we were shown all the tk lions" of the place. 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 217 
 
 Milwaukee is about twenty-five miles from Racine ; and 
 several appointments, taking us back by the midnight steamer 
 to Chicago, prevented our seeing what is said to be a very 
 charming city, though a great gloom has fallen on the town 
 by the (then) recent calamitous and dreadful fire at a hotel 
 there, where so many visitors and employees were sacrificed 
 to the fiery element, and which conflagration caused a great 
 sympathy of feeling throughout the length and breadth of 
 the land. 
 
 " 'T is over, over! here is no present now; 
 All life lies in the past." 
 
 The Stock Yard at Chicago. 
 
 The Stock Yard of Chicago is about five miles on the out- 
 skirts of the city proper, and taking the horse-car we are 
 carried over one of the numerous drawbridges which cut the 
 town, as it were, in two sections; we are thence taken 
 through what one would call old Chicago, for the poor aspect 
 of some of the streets, with such a motley collection of shabby 
 tenement houses and cottages, caused one to think that the 
 big fire swept away a miserable number of dwellings, if the 
 better quarter was anything like these poor, squalid places. 
 
 Arriving at the Stock Yard, we found almost a small town 
 within the limits of its walled enclosures and spacious en- 
 trance gates. The large area of many acres, for the recep- 
 tion of cattle, etc., from all parts of the West, comprises a 
 little municipality almost of its own, for here were hotels, 
 banks, police stations, aud numerous places of business, 
 such as offices, etc., for the owners and buyers, besides the 
 miles of pens for the cattle. 
 
 The hog trade done here is well known as the head centre 
 of the pork-packing business of the world, for they are 
 slaughtered, dressed, and sent off to all parts of the globe. 
 The immense supply and demand for pig meat must be won- 
 derfully large, for we were told by one of the officials of the 
 Yard that as many as some three thousand hogs were killed, 
 dressed, and packed away in a day ; and on invitation to 
 visit the shambles or slaughter sheds, to see the practical 
 woi kings of the system, a few moments' insight was enough 
 for a lifetime. 
 
218 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 On entering the building or shed, we found a large, ram- 
 bling-formed, rough place, with large tables or benches run- 
 ning down the centre ; on each side of which stood a row of 
 uncouth-looking men and boys, dressed in water-proof over- 
 alls and aprons, and all besmeared with blood. These 
 worthies were laughing, singing, cursing, and swearing, and, 
 armed with knives of all sizes, were at their unpleasant work 
 of disembowelling the hogs, after scraping the hair off the 
 creatures from a scalded bath. 
 
 The most painful sight of the whole affair was the commence- 
 ment of the necessary tragedy. An innocent-looking small 
 boy gently drives the poor hogs with a whip, up an incline 
 from the pens, into a partitioned sort of avenue which narrows 
 at one end, so that two men easily seize the first victim which 
 comes, fasten a rope and chain around its hind legs, head 
 downwards, when the body of the pig revolves round by a 
 kind of derrick to the executioner, who stands prepared with 
 a long, sharp knife, and at once plunges the steel blade 
 into the throat of the animal ; the blood pours out in streams, 
 and the carcase is still kept revolving until its quivering flesh 
 is thrown into the scalding hot-water bath; it remains there 
 a few seconds only, is then lifted out and passed on to the 
 tables, and rough butcher men, with their water-proof aprons 
 and sharp knives, do the rest of the business, that of scraping 
 the bristles off the skins of the hogs while the body is warm. 
 The carcass is then dissected for dressing and packing. 
 
 Of course, it is necessary that some persons should have 
 to do this unpleasant work of preparing food for us, but the 
 brutalizing influence it must have, particularly on young men 
 and boys, we fear is somewhat great; however, our grand 
 relief was. to get away outside of the Stock Yard aud its 
 mysteries as soon as possible. 
 
 Since our visit to Chicago in 1881, the pioneer Western 
 city has grown in population, wealth, and commerce, aud 
 to-day, in 1S90, commands great attention from all classes 
 on the American continent and the world generally. The 
 contention respecting the location of the proposed World's 
 Fair has been decided by a recent vote of Congress in favor 
 of the lake city, Chicago, to be held in 1893. The work 
 required by the various committees in the furtherance of the 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 219 
 
 organization will need some skilful handling in the comple- 
 tion of this big undertaking. We trust, however, that no 
 animosity of bitter party feeling from other disappointed 
 cities will take place, and prevent the great exhibition from 
 becoming a positive success, financially and socially. 
 
 Chicago to New York. 
 
 The day of our departure to return eastward happened to 
 be the day of the funeral obsequies of the lamented President 
 Garfield, so that we found some difficulty in reaching the 
 Pennsylvania, Pittsburg & Fort Wayne depot ; the streets 
 being blocked with soldiers, populace, and vehicles, as the 
 line of procession was forming in near imitation of the real 
 funeral pageant then taking place at Cleveland, Ohio. Cer- 
 tainly Chicago had done her share in the way of mourning 
 processions and display of grief . From the magnificent Court 
 House, down to the humblest dwelling-place, black drapery 
 was visible everywhere, interspersed with flags at half-mast. 
 
 The railway station we were leaving is said to be the long- 
 est depot building in America. As we moved homeward, 
 we were much surprised to find such solid, well-built track- 
 bed road ; every few miles a watchman is stationed in a little 
 wooden house, to protect the railway road, and to give notice 
 when out of repair. The whole of the foundation of the 
 track level appeared to be laid with macadamized stone, and 
 throughout the mauy hundred miles traversed on this line to 
 New York (via New Jersey) we observed the same uniform 
 and splendid line of car-road, with steel rails and double 
 track. The reputation of this company is well deserved, and 
 in all its arrangements of speed and comfort is almost un- 
 approachable by any other corporation of railway manage- 
 ment in the country. The handsome, large, lofty, and well- 
 lighted cars are unsurpassed, excepting the New York, New 
 Haven & Hartford Railway Company on which road the cars 
 ai'e invariably good ones, but not so large as the Western, 
 whose sleeping, drawing-room, and ordinary cars are elegant 
 in their appointments, and beyond praise for comfort and the 
 rapidity of the travelling and making of connections ; they 
 are far better managed than many other lines of long or 
 short distance travel. 
 
220 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 Alleghany Mountains. 
 
 The run homeward was of much briefer duration by some 
 houis than the circuitous route we had traversed westward, 
 by the Grand Trunk Railway ; but the chief charm of the 
 whole journe}' (after a short stop at Pittsburg for breakfast) 
 was the ascent and view of that magnificent work of Nature, 
 the Alleghany Mountains. A large observation car is 
 attached to the train for those who wish for an uninterrupted 
 view of the many miles of mountainous scenery of so grand 
 a character, interspersed by hill, dale, and valley ; the incline 
 of the ascent is very gradual by the engine and train, and 
 the descent is carefully managed by competent engineers, so 
 that no danger whatever is felt or experienced. 
 
 To express the magnificence of that morning's charming 
 ride would be simply impossible, it was so different from 
 what one had seen before in this wonderful country, so full 
 of natural scenery. The varied, wild, weird-like views of 
 mountain and glen, forest and lake, on either side of us, 
 were grand indeed. The e3'e never wearied in those four 
 hours of such a banquet of Nature in all its sublimity ; the 
 clear, beautiful sight was like a vision, and not to be for- 
 gotten for many a long day to come. With the poet we might 
 
 say : — 
 
 " Majestic monarch of the cloud! 
 Who rear'st aloft thy regal form, 
 To hear the tempest trumpings loud, 
 And see the lightning lances driven! " 
 
 We might add an item of interest to our readers ; the 
 recent census of June, 1890, enumerates Alleghany City at 
 105,000 population. Alleghany County numbers 500,000 
 inhabitants. While the busy, bituminous city of Pittsburg 
 counts 240,000 people, mostly industrious workers in coal 
 and iron. 
 
 The Steamship "City of Rome." 
 
 While crossing the North River, at New York, and observ- 
 ing a splendid model of an ocean steamer, just arrived from 
 Liverpool, England, the writer was curious enough to ask her 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 221 
 
 name, and also gleaned the following facts, which are now 
 submitted to the reader. 
 
 The steamship ' ' City of Rome " was built a few years ago 
 by the Barrow Shipbuilding Company, on the Clyde, origi- 
 nally for the Inman fleet, but soon after sold to the Anchor 
 Line, and is to-day a favorite ocean flyer between Liverpool 
 and New York. At the launching of this magnificent 
 steamer, more than usual interest was attached to the inci- 
 dent, owing to the fact that she was the largest vessel in the 
 mercantile service, and in engines the most powerful. 
 
 The "City of Rome," in structural proportion and design, 
 presented a remarkable contrast to the late " Great Eastern" 
 steamship, to which she stood next in magnitude on the 
 ocean highway ; the latter vessel resembled a stately ark, 
 with towering walls and ponderous hull, massive and stupen- 
 dous rather than elegant. The conditions are reversed in the 
 newer product of naval architecture. 
 
 The " City of Rome " is of great length, of tapering form, 
 symmetrical lines, and graceful mould, so that the inex- 
 perienced observer is scarcely able to realize her enormous 
 dimensions ; her tonnage is returned as being 8,82G tons. 
 The length of this leviathan vessel is 586 feet, her breadth 
 of beam is 52 feet, and her depth of hold 75 feet, while 
 her beautifully modulated line suggest to the beholder an 
 impression of buoynnt grace rather than that of vast magni- 
 tude ; yet her carrying power, notwithstanding the clipper 
 bow, rounded stern, and trim masts, is as great as any other 
 vessel afloat. 
 
 The magnificent engines are intended to work constantly 
 at 8,000 indicated horse-power, although capable of develop- 
 ing upwards of 10.000. A technical description of the en- 
 gines would hardly be intelligible to the unprofessional reader, 
 and it is enough to say that they are not ouly of giant power, 
 but include all the latest improvements for economizing force, 
 and holding them under the readiest control. 
 
 This fine steamer can carry about six thousand tons of 
 cargo and oftentimes as many as two thousand human 
 beings across the Atlantic. The internal arrangements and 
 appointments for the convenience of passengers and crew are 
 of the most admirable character. The state-room berths of 
 
222 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 the cabin passengers are spacious and airy, while those for 
 the emigrants, of whom the " Cit} r of Rome" carries an 
 immense complement, are open, well lighted, and well appor- 
 tioned. The saloons, boudoirs, smoking rooms, bath-rooms 
 and drawing-room parlors are furnished in a luxurious style, 
 with rich ornamentations, and every appliance to make the 
 voyage pleasant and comfortable ; all the principal apart- 
 ments and engine-room are lighted with electric light 
 (Stevens's lamps), and the scene at night is as brilliant as at 
 noonday. The vessel is, in fact, a floating palace, and 
 though others of the great ocean-going steamships may rival 
 her in this character and speed, none excel her in luxury, 
 while in capacity and engine power she is in the front rank 
 of England's mercantile marine. This magnificent vessel, at 
 the time of my writing, was under the command of Capt. J. 
 Kennedy. 
 
 Since the " City* of Rome" was built, other superb steam- 
 ers have been modelled and launched, such as the " Etruria," 
 '* Aurauia," and " Umbria," of the celebrated Cunard Line of 
 ocean greyhounds; the "America," of the National Line, a 
 fleet sailer ; with the sister ships of the Inman Company, " City 
 of New York" and " City of Paris." The latter vessel was 
 the queen of the seas up to February, 1890, for speed ; her 
 latest record across the Atlantic being six days and foui teen 
 hours. Each of these vessels' tonnage is returned at the 
 colossal figures of 10.500 horse-power each. A new vessel 
 for the White Star Line, called the " Majestic," said to be 
 of immense power, is now champion of the ocean. 
 
 The Steamship "Austral." 
 
 The " Austral," of the Anchor Line, chartered for Atlantic 
 trips during the summer of 1*84, is a fine model of a vessel ; 
 not so large as the k ' City of Rome," but spacious enough to 
 accommodate eight hundred passengers of all classes, and 
 two hundred officers, seamen, stokers, trimmers, engineers, 
 stewards, waiters, etc. 
 
 The writer of these pages was one of the thousand souls 
 that traversed the wide waters of the Atlantic in September. 
 1884, on the return journey to America from a three months' 
 
RAMULES IN AMERICA. 223 
 
 visit to kind relatives in Scotland and England ; and from 
 the occasional fearful rocking and lurching of the huge 
 vessel, we do not recommend the equinoctial gale month 
 (September) as a pleasant time to travel. Cold, cutting 
 winds and rain-storms made the trip very unpleasant; about 
 two thirds of the passengers were prostrated with seasick- 
 ness, and of that charming complaint the narrator suffered 
 very much. One afternoon in particular, some persons said 
 they were altering the sailing-gear ; anyway, while we were 
 quietly reading on deck, the huge, two-funelled and four- 
 masted steaiiK r gave such a roll to one side that passengers 
 and all kinds of crockery were sent flying in every direction. 
 Some of us closed our eyes for the return lurch, thinking of 
 a capsize, but the sturdy vessel righted itself, and the 
 blanched faces of the passengers was a good subject for 
 jibes by the unfeeling crew. 
 
 Another little episode in connection with this steamship 
 About eleven o'clock at night, the wind blowing a stiff 
 breeze, we were awakened in our cabin berths by a large 
 body of water forcing its way into our sleeping apartment. 
 We immediately thought that the ship had sprung a leak, 
 and everybody awoke in a moment ; sitting up iu bed, with 
 the aid of the electric light, could see a steady stream pour- 
 ing in. Some of us began hurriedly to dress, while one 
 young fellow, an Irishman, fresh from Dublin, with no other 
 apparel but a night-shirt on him, leaped from his berth, ran 
 to the compauionway, and there screamed, " Watch ! Mur- 
 der ! The ship is sinking ! " etc. He told us afterwards that 
 not a soul on deck paid the least attention to him, so he came 
 down and waded through the water to his bed again, i he 
 officer t,f the watch came calmly along, some time after- 
 wards, and said the leakage was caused by one of the large 
 water tanks bursting, and advised us to go to sleep, 'if pos- 
 sible, once more. The young Dublinite was a singer of 
 some repute, but the promenade on the deck in his thin ha- 
 biliments caused him to have a severe cold and loss of voice. 
 We may mention that among the f lightened passengers at 
 this time were two deaf and dumb young men, who, when 
 they saw the '* leakage," sat bolt upright in their berth, and 
 talked like inspired mutes, with their finger vocabulary, till 
 the excitement subsided. 
 
224 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 Great credit is due to the liberality of the Anchor Line 
 Company for the bountiful table of all sorts of viands. The 
 chief steward, in his order for the da} T , was never niggardly 
 in his bill of fare. Everything promised in the first and 
 second cabins was faithfully carried out, and no doubt the 
 steerage accommodation was a fair average of excellence, 
 considering the small fare charged for the voyage. 
 
 Steamship " Devonia." 
 
 So much for the " Austral." Let us glance back for a 
 few moments to another of the numerous steamships of the 
 Anchor Line fleet, the "Devonia," a fine, spacious vessel, of 
 somewhat less tonnage than the " Austral," but to the inex- 
 perienced, a fair-sized boat to manage in foul weather. 
 Leaving the pier at North River, New York, with the salu- 
 tations and good wishes of kind friends, we started, in com- 
 pany with the " Arizona," the " Fgypt," the " Britannic," 
 and some French and German steamers, all on a summer 
 cruise to Europe. The larger and more powerful steamers 
 soon outstrip those of smaller calibre, and before night we 
 all got separated, and then began the discussion on the 
 merits of the different favorites of the ocean highway. 
 
 A trip from New York to Glasgow is one of those treats 
 only to be met with in midsummer time. With the excep- 
 tion of the disagreeable fogs on the banks of Newfoundland, 
 the voyage was almost on a calm sea, and fine weather over- 
 head. As the Fourth of July was one of our ocean days, 
 the celebration was kept up by all the passengers; pride 
 lost itself in the distinction of classes for a while, and all 
 went in for a real good time throughout the day. The cele- 
 bration included racing around the spacious vessel, jumping 
 in sack§, procession of antiques and horribles, concerts in 
 the afternoou and evening, also recitations and speech 
 recitals in commemoration of the day of independence. 
 Scotch. English, Americans, and Irish all joined in celebrat- 
 ing, the ladies taking a prominent part in the festivities ; 
 dancing on the quarter-deck concluded the celebration of the 
 Fourth of July, 1884, on shipboard in mid-ocean. Extra 
 delicacies in the eating and drinking line were provided by 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 225 
 
 the chief steward, and the purser had charge of the concerts 
 and dancing. The captain, officers, engineers, and the 
 small army of sailors and helpers all seemed to thoroughly 
 enjoy the national day. 
 
 A trip to Europe by the Anchor Line embraces a good 
 deal ; particularly if the tourist travels b} T way of Glasgow, for 
 the steamer touches at Moville via Londonderry, in Ireland, 
 skirting the Emerald Isle, in all its beauty of lovely green 
 tints of verdure ; and then we have a fine view of the 
 " Giant's Causeway," looking very grand and majestic with 
 its dark, frowning headland, overhanging bluffs, and fissures 
 of the steep Causeway. The scenery about Antrim and 
 Deny, in fact, all the sister counties in Ireland, seems teem- 
 ing with fresh, natural beauties. 
 
 As the " Devonia " speeded on, we approached the west 
 eru coast of Scotland and the wild rugged landscape of 
 moorland ; although the brown heather seemed in direct con- 
 trast to the glistening green we had lately left, yet the pic- 
 turesque mountains and glens, hills and dales of the beautiful 
 Mull of Cantarre, Isle of Arran, and other magnificent views 
 of natural scenery would almost bewilder the traveller in 
 choosing between the two styles of verdant green and rocky 
 mountain celebrities. 
 
 We glided along past other points of great interest, histor- 
 ically as well as naturally, till we sighted Greenock, a 
 Scotch seaport of some enterprise, and the rendezvous for 
 custom-house officers to examiue passengers' baggage, all 
 articles therein being passed without delay or trouble. We 
 wish we could say as much for the New York officials. Such 
 confusion, such tumbling out of trunks at the barge office in 
 New York, was almost bewildering ; then the delays by the 
 cabin passengers' baggage getting mixed with other steamers' 
 luggage recently arrived. As a natural consequence, nearly 
 everything entering America (except individual clothing and 
 personal effects) has a duty put on ; and it is laughable to 
 see how persistent some officers are to ferret out, while others 
 are somewhat good-natured in their search. It reminds one 
 of the old proverb, " They strain at a gnat, and swallow a 
 camel." They let go, and pass sometimes, most glaring 
 breaches of the law, and detain goods of a most trivial value 
 
226 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 overnight, to be returned uext da}-, compelling passengers to 
 stay at a hotel and incur expeuses, through their red-tape 
 vagaries. 
 
 But to return from this digression, and get to Glasgow 
 from Greenock, which can be done by river or rail ; we pre- 
 ferred the latter, having had nearly enough of water travel- 
 ling for the present, and trusted in viewing the shipbuilding 
 yards along the Clyde at a future time. 
 
 As it is not our intention to dilate at length on descriptions 
 of the Old Country, but confine ourselves in most particulars 
 to the New Worl 1, a few words about Great Britain may not 
 be uninteresting to the general reader ; but any attempt to 
 describe the immensity of London, England, would require a 
 large volume of its own. 
 
 The Prince of Wales in Edinburgh. 
 
 We met some hundreds of Americans in all parts of 
 Europe, particularly about Edinburgh, which is a starting 
 point of historical interest ; and we were especially fortunate 
 (tint is, if one is fond of royalty) in being present in Ediu 
 burgh on Aug. 23, 1884, when the Prince and Princess of 
 Wales, their two sons and three daughters, arrived in the 
 Scotch city, and visited the forestry exhibition, — a collection 
 of various Scottish woods in their crude state, and also in 
 the perfection of mechanical finish. 
 
 The Queen's eldest sou looked as fat and jolly as ever ; 
 his wife, the Princess of Wales, appeared as young, pretty, 
 and amiable as when first married. Their sous and daugh- 
 ters seemed healthydooking young people ; the princesses 
 were very plainly dressed, without any apparent ostentation 
 whatever, looking like young ladies just returning from 
 school studies ; the oldest daughter, Louise, was married to 
 the Karl (now Duke) of Fife during the season of 1889. 
 
 The illustrious visitors were the guests of the Karl and 
 Countess of Roseberry, of Dalmeny Park, situated about six 
 miles from Edinburgh. This estate is very large, compris- 
 ing many miles of forest, wood, and deer land, also acres of 
 cultivated gardens. The young owner of this fine domain is 
 very popular in Mid-Lothian ; the canny Scotch people appre- 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 227 
 
 ciate his liberal and kindly nature, in his strenuous efforts 
 for political reform of long-standiug abuses. His amiable 
 wife, the Countess of Roseberry, is the daughter of Baron 
 Lionel Rothschild, and her dowry at her marriage a few 
 years ago was said to be something away up in the millions. 
 
 The Prince of Wales at the Forth Bridge. 
 
 About two miles distant from the Roseberry property is a 
 quaint old burgh or township, called " Queensferry," at pres- 
 ent brought greatl} T into notice by the stupendous undertak- 
 ing of difficult and dangerous big-bridge building from its 
 shores. The Forth railway bridge, then being constructed 
 across the wide part of the Frith of Forth, an arm of the sea, 
 and lately completed, is one of the marvels of engineering 
 skill, and will admit of vessels, of eveiy tonnage, sailing 
 under. The structure is somewhat similar in construction to 
 the Brooklyn East River bridge, excepting the Forth bridge 
 is of cantilever design, and with such invariably rough wind 
 and weather, as often happens on the Scotch coast, made 
 this colossal work a serious and hazardous experiment 
 of cantilever bridge building. A cablegram from London, 
 March 4, 1890, informs us that ''The new great cantilever 
 bridge over the Forth, near Kdinburgh, was opened to-day 
 by the Prince of Wales, in the presence of many eminent 
 engineers, railway directors, and a great mass of spectators. 
 The day was kept as a holiday in Edinburgh, Leith, and many 
 surrounding towns, causing much rejoicing over the opening of 
 the bridge." Thus the great railways of Scotch and English 
 interests will be materially enhanced by the connection of 
 both shores, Queensferry and Fife, and a saving of time to 
 travellers. The Prince and Princess of Wales and family, 
 also Mr. Gladstone, then Premier of England, were much 
 interested in this Forth bridge undertaking. 
 
 It was interesting to notice the big, burly Scotch, English, 
 and Irish workmen look on with curious eyes at the august 
 party of royal visitors, and these poor fellows no doubt 
 wondered how it was that some were so rich, without work 
 (except Gladstone) , and others so poor with work. 
 
 Many casualties and fatalities happened during the build- 
 
228 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 ing of this bridge, and the writer saw ambulances ready at 
 the hotel near the river side, and was told that surgeons were 
 in daily requisition to attend to the poor unfortunate bruised 
 workers. 
 
 Baronetcies have been conferred upon Mr. Thompson, the 
 chairman of the Forth Bridge Company, and Sir John Fowler, 
 consulting engineer of the work. Mr. Baker, the chief en- 
 gineer of the bridge, and Mr. Arrol, the contractor, have 
 been knighted. Thus these gentlemen have been honored by 
 the Queen of England, as a tribute to their skill and ability 
 in carrying out an undertaking second to none in the way of 
 difficult bridge building. The cost of this cantilever struct- 
 ure is said to amount to a fabulous sum, viz., 3, 1 77,206 
 pounds sterling, and it took several years to complete it. 
 Fifty thousand tons of steel were used, combined in spans of 
 unparalleled size, for this greatest work kuown to the civil- 
 ized world. 
 
 A short carriage ride from Queensferry takes the tourist to 
 the Earl of Hopetoun's estate, situated on the banks of the 
 Frith of Forth, and is called the "Versailles of Scotland." 
 The private garden of flower grounds is truly magnificent, 
 comprising ninety acres, and the forestry land and deer park 
 beyond are splendid ; hundreds of fallow deer were seen 
 quietly grazing in the glades. We saw two trees, planted 
 the da} r before our visit by the Prince and Princess of Wales ; 
 and two other trees were shown us, planted by the King of 
 Denmark and his daughter (the Princess of Wales) while on 
 a visit ten years before. The mansion of the Earl of Hope- 
 toun is built of gray granite, and is in the French style of 
 architecture ; the mansion is very spacious, and beautifully 
 furnished and decorated. 
 
 The Right Honorable Ewart Gladstone in Edinburgh. 
 
 During our stay with kind relatives in Edinburgh, the 
 Honorable Ewart Gladstone was making a tour through Mid- 
 Lothian, and giving addresses to immense audiences on his 
 views of the franchise bill, and defending his policy against 
 the antagonism of the House of Lords. We were presented 
 with a ticket of admission to hear this wonderful political 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 229 
 
 orator, in the large, covered building called " Waverley 
 Market," holding some twent}' thousand people. The im- 
 press of that marvellous voice, as we listened on the edge of 
 that great crowd of upturned faces, was truly interesting. 
 Full, mellow, and sonorous, with good emphasis, the veteran 
 statesman deliveied his views with manly unction and much 
 independence; and as he and his party, including the Earl 
 of Roseberiy, left the thronged hall, a deafening shout of 
 approbation vibrated through the building. The equipages 
 of his young host (Roseberry) were truly regal ; most of the 
 carriages have four horses, with postillions, preceded by 
 outriders and mounted police. The royal escort is generally 
 made up of mounted dragoons. 
 
 The Royal Blind Asylum at Edinburgh. 
 
 Before bidding adieu to Edinburgh, where the writer has 
 passed many happy days with hospitable friends, please follow 
 him into a very meritorious building, called The Royal Blind 
 Asylum and School, at Edinburgh In company with a 
 Scotch gentleman, the narrator a few years since visited the 
 above institution. About two hundred and fifty blind per- 
 sons, mostly men, were in the asylum. Nearly two hundred 
 of these were engaged in different kiuds of industry, and all 
 of them appeared anxious to do what they could towards 
 their own maintenance. As we were shown through the 
 various departments, it was astonishing to witness the alac- 
 rity and ingenuity of the afflicted inmates, by the aptitude 
 displayed in the different workings of their handicraft. 
 
 Brushes, mats, mattresses, and all kinds of plain and 
 fancy baskets were some of the articles manufactured there. 
 The weaving was most interesting ; the working of the 
 shuttle and threads of the looms seemed to be executed with 
 close precision. In the mattress room our attention was 
 directed to the fine but sightless face of a middle-aged man, 
 who grew quite animated and eloquent in his conversation 
 with us, respecting the large concourse of people who would 
 probably be at the monster meeting, to be held that evening 
 in the Waverley Market building, to listen to Mr. Glad- 
 stone, in his great address on the franchise bill to the electors 
 of AJ id-Lothian. 
 
230 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 In another room, a blind man was shown ns as an extreme 
 case of affliction. This unfortunate some years ago went 
 to his bed for slumber, and when the sun rose in the morning 
 the patient realized the sad fact that his sight had left him 
 in the night-time. His resignation was wonderful, and when 
 we evinced our sympathy, the poor fellow smiled, and said 
 the affliction happened a long time ago, and he was quite 
 reconciled to his fate some while since. 
 
 In the anteroom of the building were a number of porters. 
 or messengers, awaiting to be sent out with goods or mes- 
 sages to various parts of the city. Most of these men were 
 totally blind, yet able to find their way about the " Modern 
 Athens." as if by instinct, for Nature seems to have furnished 
 them with very subtle and acute powers of hearing each and 
 every motion of sound. Groat praise is due to those noble- 
 hearted gentlemen, the founders and donors of this admir- 
 able institution, on behalf of suffering humanity. Any 
 American tourist, travelling to Europe, and visiting Scotland, 
 would be much interested by inspecting this Asylum for the 
 Blind. A large store, or show room, for the sale of articles 
 made by the inmates, is in the front part of the building. In 
 saying a last word of this laudable effort to assist the unfor- 
 tunate, and of this home and shelter for the afflicted of God's 
 creatures, and, as we may say, a refuge for those who, were 
 it not for such grand institutions, would in some cases almost 
 die of despair and discouragement, in ruminating on their 
 blank and sightless lives, and dark future before them. It is 
 pleasant to remember that England and America stand side 
 by side in their Christian-like endeavors to alleviate pain and 
 misery. Occupation, with remunerative encouragement, takes 
 away, in some measure, the shadow from the patients' lives, 
 and replaces a joyousness at times surprising to many of 
 us to witness, when we, with our glorious vision unimpaired, 
 behold the grandeur of the beauties of Nature and Art, and 
 yet oftentimes murmur at our lot in this bright world of ours. 
 
 Excursions from Edinburgh. 
 
 Every fine morning in summer time, Princes Street (the 
 leading thoroughfare of Edinburgh) is teeming with tanned- 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 231 
 
 faced tourists, many Americans among them, hastening to 
 the various excursion stages to Roslin Castle, Queensferry . 
 and other places. Tlie drivers of these four-horse coaches 
 are a sort of relict of bygone days ; they wear a faded, stained, 
 scarlet coat, and an old-f:ishioned white hat, a typical Jehu of 
 years ago, when Pickwick used to go abroad with Mr. Weller, 
 senior. As we started in car or stage together, for the day 
 or more, the company generally fraternized, and often very 
 enjoyable times were spent thus, the Americans seeming 
 pleased with all they saw, whether it was Edinburgh City or 
 the ancient Castle, with its beautiful garden surroundings. 
 Calton Hill by night gives a magnificent effect of illuminated 
 views from its many terraces, looking down on the new town 
 and below on the old town, with its circular range of electric 
 and gas orbs, the myriads of which give the charming old 
 city a wild, weird, and curious spectacle of panoramic vision, 
 as far as the eye can reach. Arthur's Seat, being the highest 
 peak, has superb views therefrom ; Holy rood Palace and its 
 dark deeds of years ago ; Sir Walter Scott's magnificent monu- 
 ment ; quaint old Stirling Castle, and its murders and bloody 
 strife, on the adjacent fields of Bannockburn, between the 
 English and Scotch ; Brace's monument, towering on the 
 heights ; looking, as it were, towards the Bridge of Allan for 
 a calm haven of rest from warfare. Then the charming 
 windings of the Frith of Forth River make a steamboat ride 
 very pleasant from Leith harbor to Stirling. 
 
 Innumerable prett}* places there are on the coast, such as 
 Portobello, Mussulboro, Aberdoir, sea-shore resorts in fine 
 weather for tourists and natives. Some fine mornings, 
 parties meet together for a few c^s' sojourn to the beauti- 
 ful Trossachs, of which so much has been said and sung, 
 and for charming scenery it is supposed to be unsurpassed, 
 in its weird, wild grandeur of hill and lake views. 
 
 In quitting Edinburgh, one feels like leaving an old friend ; 
 yet we are in the cars en route to the busy city of Glasgow, 
 where in two hours' time we alight and proceed to the wharf 
 for the steamer to carry us across the Irish Channel to 
 Dublin ; dropping down the teeming, murky Cl} T de River, of 
 ship-building industry fame, to Greenock, to take in more 
 passengers. The indefatigable Yankee was on board, and 
 
232 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 had his share of a rough roll across the Irish Channel, the 
 chopping seas and cross-currents making the fifteen hours' 
 sail generally a sickly passage. 
 
 Dublin. 
 
 On entering Dublin Bay, the sight in the morning repays 
 one for the discomfort of the night before. There was the 
 usual confusion on landing, hack and cab drivers swearing 
 and quarrelling to get the first passenger to fleece, importu- 
 nate beggars in patches and rags offering their services for 
 baggage carrying, etc., and till one is whirled away from 
 the racket to his hotel, no peace is given. 
 
 Dublin Oity is divided by a narrow river called the Liffey, 
 and has numerous bridges. The best public buildings ap- 
 peared to be the Four Courts, though thrre are man} 7 others. 
 Sackville Street has some good stores, and is the fashionable 
 promenade. Guinness' Stout Works is an immense build- 
 ing, employing some hundreds of men. 
 
 The Castle and other places of interest were pointed out 
 by the Irish car-driver, with a mixture of sarcasm and dry 
 wit. The jaunting-car is qui'e peculiar to the country, but 
 they go fast, and one can view everything, besides hearing 
 the remarks of the ragged driver. He wanted to know if I 
 was from New York, and fifty other questions of the same 
 calibre ; how he would like to go America, etc. He con- 
 tinued talking and expatiating, as we drove through Phoenix 
 Park, a magnificent place, with many fine old trees and 
 beautiful emerald-green grass land. As my guide pointed 
 out the spot where Lord Cavendish and Mr. Burke were 
 murdered, almost opposite the viceroy's mansion, he sud- 
 denly said, " Look, there is a fine view." It was truly a 
 magnificent sight, looking out from the park. Then he 
 said, " There is another sight, not quite so pleasant, " point- 
 ing in the direction of Kilmanhain Jail, " where the poor 
 boys were brought out and slaughtered ; bad luck to the tpal- 
 peens that done it!" I remarked quietly, " The poor boys 
 should not commit murder!" All over Phoenix Park were 
 mounted constabulary stationed, as well as foot police, 
 placing everybody, as it were, under strict surveillance and 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 233 
 
 espionage. The burly car-driver gave the officials a few 
 curses as we left the park, and soon afterwards stopped at a 
 tavern, where he said they sold the best whiskey and stout 
 in Dublin. In paying this man for the ride, and giving him 
 his dram monev, we were satisfied for one day's recreation in 
 Old Ireland. 
 
 A few miles from Dublin is Kingston harbor, a splendid 
 seaport, where vessels of large size can ride at anchor in its 
 roads. The Duke of Edinburgh and the channel fleet were 
 off Kingston during our short visit. The Queen's second 
 eldest son is admiral of these fine men-of-war, and hoisted 
 his pennant on the flag-ship of one of the largest. The 
 clean, orderly appearance of these steam war-ships was very 
 noticeable, and the healthy-looking jack tars appeared as if 
 they could fig'd when needed. 
 
 Dublin to Cork. 
 
 The long steam-car ride from Dubliu to Cork gives the 
 tourist a fine opportunity of seeing many Irish counties, 
 passing through Tipperary, Limerick, Clonmell, Kildare, 
 and several others. As we proceeded, some painful scenes 
 of parting at the country stations were witnessed ; the old 
 father and aged mother clinging in a wild embrace over a 
 daughter or son, about leaving for America, sobbing and 
 wailing as the conductor gave the signal, and friends trying 
 to separate parents and children, was a melancholv scene ; 
 but it is astonishing how soon the young people recover from 
 the separation, when on board the ocean steamer, and do 
 any amount of flirting. 
 
 In due time we arrived in Cork, which is a pretty lively 
 city, with some business pretensions, and like Dublin, a 
 narrow river divides the town. A very pleasant sail down 
 Cork harbor in fine weather is truly enjoyable, the scenery 
 being quite picturesque. 
 
 We arrived at Queenstown's natural harbor (a few miles 
 from 'Cork) on a Saturday evening, and next morning at 
 nine o'clock we were ordered on board a tug to meet the 
 New York steamer " Austral," which was expected from 
 Liverpool about that time ; her big hull did not come in 
 
234 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 sight, however, till twelve o'clock, noon; when we immedi- 
 ately boarded her, en route to America once more, this being 
 the fifth experience of the writer's crossing the Atlantic. 
 
 London and its Environs. 
 
 When in London (this journey) the narrator was pleased 
 to give several American gentlemen and ladies some infor- 
 mation respecting the great metropolis and its environs, 
 including such institutions of recreation and learning as the 
 British Museum and its magnificent reading-room ; South 
 Kensington Museum and fine-art galleries; the Health Ex- 
 hibition at the superb Albert Hall ; the horticultural Mower 
 shows, and the Botanical and Zoological Gardens, Regent's 
 Park. 
 
 The finest parks in the world may be chosen from the 
 following : Hyde Park, St, James Park, near Buckingham 
 Palace and gardens, and Regent's Park are situated west- 
 ward ; southward is Battersea Park, on the banks of the 
 Thames River, a truly magnificent place of modern formation 
 for the people, with recreation grounds for cricket, base-ball, 
 and bicycle-riding avenues ; while to the north there are 
 Alexander Palace, Finsbury and Victoria Parks, a great 
 boon to the poor workers of East and North London. 
 
 In connection with these public enclosures, there are fine- 
 art exhibitions in buildings built for the purpose, and of the 
 yearly exhibition of choice, beautiful flowers of these parks 
 it would take long to tell. One pleasing feature is, that at 
 the end of each summer season a distribution of flowers is 
 made to the deserving poor, on application to the park 
 authorities, and the gladsome sight of little potted shrubs 
 ' decorating the window sills of the hard workers of this 
 immense city is often witnessed. 
 
 There are numerous other parks outside of London, of 
 which we shall speak later on. 
 
 In the western district of London the renowned Royal 
 Academy's annual exhibition of pictures by modern artists, 
 on view at Burlington House, is always attractive. The 
 National Gallery, in Trafalgar Square, is a building devoted 
 to the works of old masters in art. Overlooking this gallery 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 235 
 
 of ancient memories is the Nelson Column, built of granite ; 
 and the "little admiral" on his lofty pedestal seems to be 
 looking towards Westminster Bridge, and surveying the 
 " Queen's Navee," and no doubt is surprised at the innova- 
 tions of modern warfare by iron-clads from the old double- 
 deckers of wooden ships in Nelson's time. We may add 
 that at the base of Admiral Lord Nelson's monument, as if 
 on guard, are four colossal lions in bronze, modelled by Sir 
 Edwin Landseer, while the four sections of plaques around 
 the plinth are emblematical of the different sea-fights by 
 Nelson and his brave officers and sailors against England's 
 enemies. These works of art are executed in bronze metal, 
 and the figures stand out in bold relief. 
 
 Concerning the immense fabric of the Houses of Parliament 
 (Lords and Commons) a day's visit of its interior and exte- 
 rior would not suffice to survey its beauts 7 of architecture and 
 magnificent surroundings ; millions of dollars were spent in 
 its building, and many years were taken in the completion of 
 the colossal and superb erection of this ornamental and figur- 
 ative pile of artistic sculpture work. 
 
 Nearly opposite to the Houses of Parliament is the venera- 
 ble Westminster Abbey, with the stain of all weathers for 
 centuries darkening the ancient structure in its many nooks 
 and corners. The interior of this historic building, with the 
 numerous sculptured kings, queens, knights, fair ladies, and 
 people of note, is mute evidence of the passing away of 
 greatness, lying in dust beneath the Hag-stones of the abbey. 
 In its proper place a concise description of this ancient edifice 
 will be offered the reader for perusal. 
 
 A wonderful improvement to London and Londoners is 
 the noted Thames Embankment, which reclaimed some hun- 
 dreds of acres of black mud and wharves and transformed 
 them into beautiful garden promenades for the people ; a 
 work of years, costing a mint of money, but the many mil- 
 lions of pounds sterling were well laid out for the welfare 
 of humanity. There are numerous granite and iron bridges 
 which span the Thames River, and connect north and south 
 districts with the ever-restless, teeming population of London, 
 wending their way backwards and forwards, in pursuance of 
 their daily business. 
 
23(5 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 The English Coast. 
 
 For some miles down the busy Thames River are numerous 
 popular shore resorts, commencing with Greenwich Park, a 
 noted place for Britishers to take tea and shrimps, flirt, 
 dance, and play at the game of kiss-in-the-ring, on Easter 
 or Whitsuntide. A large government building called Green- 
 wich Hospital and Training School for orphan boys, is situ- 
 ated here, where hundreds of poor lads are boarded, clothed, 
 and educated, mostly for a seafaring life. A large ship, 
 fully rigged, is in the school-yard for the pupils' instruction, 
 care being taken to place netting about the vessel, in case of 
 boys falling from aloft. Some eminent naval officers have 
 in early life graduated from this institution. Adjacent to 
 this humane retreat used to be the old pensioners' or decayed 
 seamen's home, for worn-out sailors of her Majesty's service. 
 In the hospital museum are to be seen Admiral Nelson's coat 
 and vest, with the shot-hole received on board the Hag-ship 
 "Victory." at the battle of Trafalgar, which ended in the 
 valiant hero's death. About five miles down the river 
 Thames is Woolwich dock-yard and arsenal, known all over 
 the world for its large ordnance and armory manufactories, 
 the English government employing some thousands of men 
 making the munitions of warfare. Woolwich Common is a 
 large tract of land used for military parades and manoeuvres, 
 similar to the camp at Aldershot. Away down the river at 
 this point it widens considerably. On approaching the 
 ocean are situated places dear to English people, Gravesend, 
 of famed popularity, Margate, Broadstairs, and Heme Bay. 
 also Ramsgate, are sea-shore resorts much frequented in the 
 summer time for the fine beach bathing and a general good 
 time of fun and frolic, or rest in the quieter districts. Still 
 farther along the coast line are the towns of Deal and Dover, 
 in full view of the shifting, treacherous Goodwin Sands, 
 which in winter time is a fearfully dangerous locality to mari- 
 ners. The Deal lifeboatmen are invariably spoken of as 
 great heroes in venturing out in a gale to save life, often at 
 the risk and loss of their own. 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 237 
 
 Places of Interest. 
 
 The open spaces of London (seldom spoken of by writers), 
 such as the green, cultivated squares, are somewhat wonder- 
 ful in their number, considering the increased value of land ; 
 but as a recreation ground for the fortunate children whose 
 parents' houses surround the enclosures, the boon must be a 
 very agreeable change from the noisy rattle of the paved 
 streets. 
 
 Many are the innumerable theatres, music halls and other 
 places of amusement, such as Madame Taussad's noted life- 
 like wax-work exhibition, etc. 
 
 The Tower of London, with its deeds of blood, on Tower 
 Hill, is historic enough, but painful to ruminate on, though 
 visitors still flock through its ancient portals, and view the 
 racks of arms and see the royal diadem and jewels, protected 
 in an iron cage. The sufferings and deaths of the martyrs, 
 years ago, are vividly explained to the tourist by a " yeoman 
 of the guard" on duty at the Citadel. 
 
 Adjacent to the Tower of London is the Royal Mint, 
 where the British coin is manufactured. A file of soldiers 
 continually guard this building as they do the Bank of Eng- 
 land at night. East and West India docks, St. Katharine's 
 docks, and miles of other docks and wharfage are in this 
 neighborhood. 
 
 We leave this busy place for the Whitechapel district, 
 where the miscreant and vile assassin, the so-called "Jack 
 the ripper," performed his exploits of wanton, diabolical 
 butchery on an unfortunate class of defenceless women, 
 which is almost without parallel in its significance, when we 
 consider the army of police officials in London and its en- 
 virons ; and yet this fiend in human form, up to date, has 
 not been captured. 
 
 Leaving this for a more pleasant subject, though in the 
 same locality, we allude to the noble building called u The 
 People's Palace," where are accommodations for twenty-five 
 hundred poor bo} r s and girls, who are thus taken care of, 
 learn trades, and are taught in various branches, including 
 the sciences. Occasional concerts at cheap rates of two 
 pence and three pence admission are some of the boons of 
 
238 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 this laudable undertaking. A large gymnasium, a spacious 
 swimming-bath, and a large rotunda, with seats for tired 
 wayfarers, are other thoughtful items for the poor of this 
 district. The kindly donors who organized the People's 
 Palace felt it was a needed waut, and a commemoration of 
 the Queen's Jubilee. The Bank of England, the Mansion 
 House, headquarters of the presiding Lord Mayor of London, 
 and Guildhall all lay nestled together, as it were, flanked 
 with a whole host of venerable churches and St. Paul's 
 Cathedral, near by ; and the innumerable other places of 
 interest almost forbids the writer to go on, as the Rarahle> 
 would never be ended in this Babylon of a city. 
 
 But a few words, in passing, about the ancient corpora- 
 tions or guilds of London. The Lord Mayor of the city of 
 London is chosen annually from the aldermen of the ward in 
 which he belongs. These old institutions date back for cen- 
 turies, and foremost amongst the number of guilds are the 
 Goldsmith Company, partly so called, as this company is 
 deputed by the English government to assay or test all man- 
 ufactured silver and gold articles made in Great Britain, and 
 to examine by competent assayers and determine whether 
 the goods are made of the standard quality of metal provided 
 by law. The articles are left at eight o'clock in the morning, 
 and returned at eventide, if found correct. A duty per 
 ounce is paid to the government, and so much per ounce. 
 termed " marking," paid to the assayers for their trouble. 
 The silver and gold ware are then stamped with the official 
 die mark, and all purchasers can tell whether the goods are 
 genuine sterling metal or not. Severe punishment is inflicted 
 on those who attempt to pass off spurious goods with forged 
 government marks thereon. We might mention that in the 
 mixing of the alloy with the pure silver or gold, should there 
 be any error, intentional or otherwise, the assay office has 
 the power to break up the articles, however costly, which they 
 do, after a second or third test. 
 
 By the charter of these rich guilds or companies, certain 
 gifts to the poor freemen of the city of London are ex- 
 tended, such as quarterly moneys, and sometimes food left 
 over from banquets such as I am about to describe. Coming 
 to an interesting episode in the writer's life in connection 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 239 
 
 with Goldsmiths' Hall, we (my sister and myself) were 
 invited by a kind friend with vouchers to a grand ceremony 
 reception, and ball, given once in three years by the wor- 
 shipful company of goldsmiths in their magnificent banquet- 
 ing and dance halls. The side tables almost groaned with 
 the weight of silver and gold plate belonging to these mer- 
 chant primes, and champagne with other wines were to be 
 had any time during the evening, ad libitum ; the menu also 
 was of the choicest and most costly kind. The well-trained 
 butlers in attendance at this sumptuous repast did their duty 
 very obsequiously and well. The writer of these pages had 
 the pleasure and honor of dancing with more than one of the 
 aldermen's fair daughters on this festive occasion, and the 
 toilets of the ladies were among those dazzling sights which 
 are enough to bewilder any young man. The clear, rosy 
 complexions and bewitching vivacity of those pretty English 
 girls made them look very fascinating, as they glided around 
 in the graceful waltz or moved in the more demure lanciers, 
 the nimble feet of the dancers keeping time to the brilliant 
 music, and the surroundings of wealth altogether was suffi- 
 cient to cause a sigh that this exhilarating scene might last 
 longer than a few hours' duration. The superb ball-room of 
 the Goldsmith Hall, with its enrichment of carvings and 
 decorative architecture, was a sight to behold ; and in- 
 numerable shrubs, flowers, and exoties were placed at all 
 convenient angles, on balconies and stairways, making the 
 ancient hall look as if touched with a fairy's wand.. The 
 gentlemen of the party, in their faultless full evening dress, 
 looked gallant as they escorted their beautiful partners 
 around the numerous anterooms, listening to the military 
 band, and whispering the soft nothings so often told on 
 such occasions. Several years have elapsed since this scene 
 of festivity took place, but my fair sister till this day, when 
 thinking of past memories, occasionally tells her little sons 
 and daughters how their Uncle Alfred took her to a grand 
 gathering at the renowned Goldsmiths' Hall. 
 
 On resuming from this digression, the patient reader will 
 accompany the writer along by the now open enclosure of the 
 glorious and grand old pile of architectural beauty, Saint 
 Paul's Cathedral, so full of historic interest as the resting- 
 
240 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 place of England's heroes, soldiers, and sailois, who fought 
 and hied for their country. This magnificent edifice was 
 the greatest work of the eminent architect. Sir Chiistopher 
 Wren. 
 
 Passing round the cathedral to Ludgate Hill and Fleet 
 Street, we come to a labyrinth of courts and alleyways, near 
 where Temple Bar formerly stood, and where the famed 
 writers of days gone by. Ben Jonson, Oliver Goldsmith. 
 Boswell and many others used to meet at their club gather- 
 ings at the old-fashioned coffee-houses .and taverns, for dis- 
 cussion and hilarity. We pass on to what used to be called 
 Temple Gardens, in the midst of which stands a line, ancient, 
 sacred edifice, named " The Temple Church." The windings 
 of Old London are here perceived, running down to the 
 banks of the Thames embankment, and the venerable build- 
 ings in the quadrangles, courts, and alleys are chiefly occu- 
 pied by lawyers, barristers, and benchers of the Temple. 
 The writer of this book, years ago, on Sabbath days often 
 visited Temple Church, listening to good sermons and excel- 
 lent singing of the well-trained choristers. A calm, subdued 
 tone always seemed to rest in this sacred place, just aside 
 from the busy hum of Fleet Street. The pillars supporting 
 the interior roof of the stately Temple Church were found 
 out by accident a few years since to be encrusted with a sort 
 of cement, which being carefully removed, discovered pol- 
 ished marble, and the pillars have been since thoroughly 
 restored. 
 
 Memorable of Temple Gardens in times past is the episode 
 of Judge Gascoine and Prince Henry, afterwards King Henry 
 VI. of England. A friend of the prince (a young noble- 
 man) was about to be sent to prison for some miner offence, 
 when Prince Henry, exasperated at the judge's decision 
 against his boon companion, suddenly rushed forward and 
 struvk Judge Gascoine on the face. In those days of the 
 early fourteenth century, royalty was almost supreme ; but 
 the learned judge did not shrink from his duty, and speedily 
 had his young princely assailant arrested, and sent to prison 
 with his high-born friend. When the old King Henry V. 
 was informed of his son's disgrace, he coincided in and 
 applauded Judge Gascoine's firmness. 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 241 
 
 The prince, awakening to a consciousness of his error, sub- 
 milted without resistance to the jailers, and suffered his pun- 
 ishment with a humility which provoked from his father's lips 
 the celebrated exclamation : " Happy the king who possesses 
 a magistrate resolute enough to discharge his duty upon such 
 an offender, and happy the father who has a son so willing to 
 submit himself to the law." 
 
 It may be interesting to my readers to relate that in this 
 part of London, near the Strand and Temple Bar, it has been 
 my privilege at various times to meet the immortal Charles 
 Dickens, as he wended his way to his publishers. Calm and 
 dignified he ever appeared and in deep thought, no doubt 
 ruminating of the many characters woven together in his 
 writings from his fertile brain. Great are the changes around 
 and about London since Dickens's death, but his name will 
 always live in the memories of present and future generations 
 as the champion of the poor and lowly. 
 
 '! he Thames Tunnel, the popular underground Metropoli- 
 tan Railway and numerous other places might int* rest the 
 reader in the great metropolis, but we must ramble on for a 
 while outside of London. There is the ever-attractive Crys- 
 tal palace, at Sydenham, looking a little the worse for wear 
 in the summer of 1884, but the charm of the ornamental 
 garden grounds still remains, and the colossal fountains, with 
 their many-hued sprays, accompanied with firework displays, 
 are themes of never-ending pleasure to holiday folks. In the 
 same county of Surrey is the unpretending but unique picture 
 gallery at Dulwich. 
 
 Windsor, in Berkshire, is a quaint old town, full of past 
 events in relation to grand old Windsor Castle, with its 
 numerous turrets, quadrangles and court-yards, and memo- 
 ries in connection with historical associations as abodes of 
 royally, for centuries, and is always replete with much inter- 
 est to people from all climes. The Home Park, looking from 
 the castle windows, is a fine stretch of beautiful cultivated 
 land, with herds of deer grazing at their ease and security. 
 A pleasant drive through the Home Park takes one to 
 Virginia Water, a noted, placid lake. Kton College and 
 grounds, a short distance from Windsor, is worthy of notice. 
 We visited the chapel on Sabbath day, and the nine hundred 
 
242 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 college students, mostly wealthy men's sons, with their bright, 
 healthy Knglish faces, was a comfortable sight to see of the 
 well-to-do class of fortunate humanity. Quaint old Hampton 
 Court palace and gardens (the home of decayed nobility), 
 situated within view of the famed Thames River, has many 
 pleasant associations. The vinery in the conservatories is 
 said to produce some of the finest grapes in the world. 
 
 Henley-on-Thames. 
 
 During the regatta season, Henley is much patronized by 
 American and Knglish visitors. Beautiful women, elegantly 
 dressed, accompanied by fashionable -looking gentlemen, 
 attend this popular gathering of riverside fashion. Some 
 years ago, visiting friends at Henley (near the old bridge) 
 for the boating season, gave the writer good opportunity to 
 observe the myriads of faces attending the aquatic carnival 
 of balmy June. The placid flowing river Thames is seen 
 here at its best; miniature islands dot its surface for miles, 
 and the various windings of the stream give a peculiar 
 charm to this famed floating rendezvous. Oftentimes at 
 early morn have we, in a light boat, rowed along by the side 
 of its charming, umbrageous banks, the numerous willow.-, 
 and other drooping trees dipping into the calm waters. The 
 eight-oared and single-scull races are exciting events of the 
 season in this bon-ton place, in the same way as the Oxford 
 and Cambridge universities' annual eight-oared boat-race 
 from Putney Bridge to Mortlake are the grand aquatic con- 
 tests for the masses of people of every degree that line the 
 shores at this popular time. 
 
 Numbers are the quaint, beautiful nooks and corners of 
 old Father Thames in its solitude beyond Richmond, such as 
 the neighboring hamlets of Hampton, Sunbury, Teddingtou, 
 Cookam, Marlow, Oxford, and other innumerable well-known 
 fishing haunts, so dearly prized by the angler in his piscatory 
 rambles, either at shore or gliding on the silent stream by 
 fishing-boat, up the river. 
 
E AMBLES IN AMERICA. - 243 
 
 Richmond Park. 
 
 A few -miles nearer to London is Richmond Park, and a 
 drive through Bushey Park to Richmond is almost beyond 
 description, when the chestnut-trees are in bloom ; the beau- 
 tiful foliage of large growth extends through about four miles 
 of umbrageous avenue, and while the bloom lasts, thousands 
 of visitors from all parts view this unique specimen of Na- 
 ture's handiwork. 
 
 Richmond, in Surrey, is always a popular resort, being a 
 pleasant ride of about twelve miles from London, by road or 
 rail ; the journey to the quiet old country town is always 
 popular. It is situated on the banks of the flowing Thames 
 River, and just outside of the town's limits is Richmond 
 Park, with its glades of woodland scenery, and hill and dale 
 verdure for the countless herds of fallow deer and hind 
 pasturing quietly there. This spot, overlooking the placid 
 river below, is famed in picture and song ; some artists were 
 sketching the fine views during our short visit there. 
 
 The " Star and Garter " hotel is well known to English 
 people, and we guess to many Americans also. Being adja- 
 tent to the entrance gates of Richmond Park, the prospect 
 from the upper windows of this famed hostelry is truly 
 charming, when one has rested, and partaken of a good din- 
 ner here. We think it a very appropriate spot, as the poet 
 did when he composed that old and once verv popular song, 
 " The Lass of Richmond Hill." 
 
 Kew Gardens. 
 
 Taking a seat in one of the fast little river steamboats, we 
 soon arrived at the well-known and justly celebrated Kew 
 Gardens. The extent and culture of this mnguificent domain 
 of Crown lands is truly astonishing and interesting. Miles 
 of conservatories and greenhouses are in these gardens ; and 
 on a national holiday, like Whit-Monday, some 100,000 peo- 
 ple pass through the grounds, and seldom injure any of the 
 well-preserved shrubs or plants devoted by the government 
 for the recreation of the masses, be they rich or poor. 
 
 These are some of the leading attractions to strauaers and 
 
244 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 tourists of other lands. Nearly all these places named above 
 are easy of access, and mostly free in the charge of admission. 
 The new Inns of Law Courts in London might be mentioned, 
 in passing, as the last completed building of large size ; eight 
 years were consumed in erecting, and some persons say the 
 structure is a failure, internally and externally. Bad venti- 
 lation, draughty, long passages, and something wrong with 
 the sound in the -Judges' Court and Chambers, make the 
 new Law Courts, which cost almost a mint of money, a very 
 unpopular building enterprise. 
 
 It would be out of my province, as a chronicler of " Ram- 
 bles in America," to dilate on topics of another country, yet 
 it is well known that Americans are interested in other coun- 
 tries ; so I will in a cursory manner just give a passing glance 
 on two or three items in closing, this book. The writer would 
 strongly advise all his friendly readers to take a trip across 
 the Atlantic, and view for themselves the amount of historic 
 lore to be found in London, Scotland, Ireland, and Wales, 
 and the numerous laige provincial cities and towns, such as 
 Manchester, Liverpool, Leeds, York, Sheffield, and Bir 
 mingham. Of the two latter cities, they have been wonderfully 
 improved and extended in the ten or twelve years since our 
 last visit. 
 
 Sheffield, in Yorkshire. 
 
 Having an evening to spare, the writer inquired of a store- 
 keeper the best theatre in Sheffield. The merchant informed 
 him that for a good night's entertainment he would suggest 
 the " Star Music Hall," owned by a man called •' Squint 
 Milner," who formerly trained Jem Mace, a fighting man of 
 notoriety. The variety show was a curious place of amuse- 
 ment of the rough-and-ready kind for the unwashed element 
 of the city, grimy from their work, and mostly collarless, 
 with the pallid hue of the workshop on them ; they sat list- 
 lessly sipping their beer, sometimes making remarks on the 
 male or female singers, or in conversation amongst them- 
 selves ; very quiet and orderly. The band of three pieces 
 was very weak, in contrast to the shrill voice of the Amazon 
 singer on the little stage. But the most puzzling feature of 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 24."> 
 
 the place was the concert hall picture gallery. The works 
 of art were of all sizes, mostly framed, and the pictures varied 
 in talent and tint, being good, bad, and indifferent; the to- 
 bacco smoke of the nightly revellers had somewhat dimmed 
 the painting subjects, and taken the varnish from the can- 
 vases, causing the begrimmed and fumed wall to serve as a 
 dark background for the old and modern masters. The taste 
 of the owner of these oil paintings, however, was not a vul- 
 gar one, as most of these pictures testified, being free from 
 offensiveness to the sensitive eye. 
 
 We visited the Messrs. Rogers' Cutlery Works in this city, 
 and as quantities of their goods are used in America, a word 
 or two may prove interesting. The courteous manager (Mr. 
 Donaldson) deputed a man to show the writer through the 
 building. We saw the process of steel knife-blade making 
 in all its branches ; ivory handles of pen, pocket, and table 
 knives were commenced and finished. There are three 
 branches of workshops of this firm in the city, employing some 
 fifteen hundred men and boys. The workshops are very old- 
 fashioned and small, and divided up for forging, butting, and 
 grinding. The English factories do not bear comparison 
 with the New England workshops and mills ; with good light, 
 spacious, and well ventilated, the workrooms of America 
 give men a fair chance to live their time out. In the well- 
 appointed show-room of the Messrs. Rogers, a large-bladed 
 handle knife is shown the visitor ; it has 1,885 blades, one 
 for each year of the Christian era. A new blade is added 
 every year ; soon a larger handle will have to be made. The 
 Prince of Wales, a few years ago, was much interested and 
 pleased with this huge-bladed weapon. 
 
 Birmingham. 
 
 From Sheffield to Birmingham is a very pleasant railway 
 ride of some seventy-five miles, passing through the busy 
 manufacturing towns of Derby, Nottingham, and Tamworth, 
 with a goodly show of English scenery of a very damp kind, 
 for it was rain, rain, rain, day after day ; light showers in 
 Scotland, heavy downpours in the Yorkshire district, but 
 without the proverbial fog, which tourists to Great Britain 
 
24»! RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 are so fond of dilating on, though vapory fog is found in 
 New England now, almost as often as in old England. 
 
 Arriving at the depot of this city, one is struck with its 
 magnitude and loftiness. This luisy station's trade for rail- 
 way passenger and goods traffic is enormous. A fine line of 
 express trains run daily to London and other business 
 centres. The magnificent depot of Birmingham, just fin- 
 ished, in its extension and alterations of immense amplitude, 
 stands side by side with St. Pancrass (of London), Great 
 Northern, Northwestern (Euston Square), Southwestern, or, 
 in fact, any big depot in the world. 
 
 Sunday evening in Birmingham is quiet and orderly as a 
 Sabbath should be. In company with some friends, we 
 went to church, evening service, heard a good discourse, and 
 a pleasant recital of the oratorio of "Judas Maccabeus," by 
 the minister, then very beautifully sung by a well-trained 
 quartet and chorus of good voices. 
 
 Next day we inspected the leading thoroughfares of the 
 city, and fine stores In the evening visited Birmingham 
 Opera House, to see the renowned French tragic actress, 
 Sara Bernhardt, perform in one of the best selections from 
 her repertoire. So much having been written favorably of 
 this talented actress as a great artiste of the lyric stage, we 
 must indorse the world's opinion of this gifted lady, for her 
 power of tragedy acting is almost wonderful ; some of her 
 deep tragic scenes were almost too painful to witness, by their 
 close intensity in the resemblance to real acting of life-drawn 
 conception of character. The exertion of such violent out- 
 bursts of passion in her declamation, one would imagine, 
 would be too much for Mich an apparently weakly formed 
 woman. She must have inward strength somewhere, for there 
 was no lack of vitality in her tragic force of delineation on 
 the stage. Madame Bernhardt was well supported in her 
 company. 
 
 Day's Music Hall, in Birmingham, is one of the hand- 
 somest in Great Britain, and almost surpasses the late Al- 
 hambra Concert Hall, Leicester Square, London, which was 
 destroyed by fire some } - ears ago, but since rebuilt. Day's 
 Hall was crowded to the doors on the night we entered the 
 building, and the entertainment was first class in most every 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 247 
 
 particular. The usual motley assemblage of both sexes was 
 there, from the apprentice boy to the drivelling old man, and 
 a sorry sight was the young girls of tender age present at 
 this Babylon of mirth and revelry, interspersed with sugges- 
 tive jokes and coarse singing. The design and architecture 
 of this place are magnificent ; there is not a vestige of pillar 
 of any kind to obstruct the view of the spacious stage and 
 well- painted scenery. 
 
 Before saying farewell to Birmingham and it* kindly peo- 
 ple, just a word or two respecting a very popular resort on 
 the outskirts of the city, called " Ashton Hall," a fine build- 
 ing, with museum combined, giving recreation with instruc- 
 tion in its various rooms. The grounds of cultivated gardens 
 attached to the Hall were in splendid condition, the chief 
 and favorite shrub being the geranium in all varieties, formed 
 into beds and plots of different designs, in borders of other 
 flowers and plants. Children, attended by their parents and 
 nurses, flock here in great numbers, and enjoy the fragrance 
 of the beautiful flowers of this domain, liberally extended 
 to them by the munificence of Birmingham's kind-hearted 
 donors. 
 
 Westminster Abbey. 
 
 A few clays prior to our departure for New York, we 
 entered the sacred pile of buildings, AVestminster Abbey, 
 and the minor canon who preached the sermon was the chief 
 officiating clergyman of the five assisting ministers of that 
 Sunday morning service. The discourse was suitable to the 
 occasion, with a good deal of practical good-sense and some 
 pathos, delivered in a very pleasant manner. The speaker, 
 on looking around the venerable cathedral, noticed quite a 
 number of strangers present, mostly Americans, and called 
 attention to the fact by remarking how many were there for 
 the first and last time, perhaps ; and by the next Sabbath 
 day would in all probability be scattered far and wide, to 
 the four quarters of the globe ; and in sequence, as it were, 
 bidding the majority a final farewell in a theme of religious 
 exhortation of the good-will of the Almighty in protecting 
 us, thus far, in the perils of land and water ; impressed us 
 
248 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 with the attributes of the divine power and counsel, and led 
 his hearers,, in grave earnestness, to endeavor b}' a godly 
 Christian life to merit the merciful intercession. The sing- 
 ing and chanting by the fifty men and boy choristers ( in 
 white surplices) were very solemn and imposing. 
 
 The cloisters of the grand old abbey appeared much 
 decayed and in a crumbling state, similar to some other old 
 cathedral cloisters in England ; but we found St. Giles 
 Cathedral, of Edinburgh, in a good state of repair, being of 
 more modern erection; and Canterbury Cathedral edifice 
 in a fair state of preservation. The verger of this abbey 
 points out to the inquisitive traveller the exact spot where 
 Thomas a Becket was struck down and ruthlessly murdered. 
 
 Venerable Westminster Abbey, though in parts crumbling 
 from old age and the action of the weather, and blackened 
 by exposure to rain and wind-storms, yet retains its many 
 vivid associations of days gone by ; and the numerous aisles 
 are more frequented by visitors of all nationalities than even 
 the grand, imposing Saint Paul's Cathedral and crypt, which 
 contains the remains of a long list of warriors and other 
 eminent personages who have served their country's welfare. 
 In looking on Charles Dickens's grave, at Westminster Abbey, 
 though in close proximity with the illustrious dead, the plain 
 brass tablet of his name on the fiat tombstone indicated, as 
 it were, the unassuming character of the great novelist, 
 moralist, and truthful sketch writer of those of the humbler 
 classes who laid dearest to his heart. 
 
 Spurgeon's Tabernacle seemed to be a great resort for 
 Americans ; in fact, quite cosmopolitan in its way of wel- 
 coming all coiners, of every clime. The Sabbath day on 
 which we went to hear the celebrated divine, we were fortu- 
 nate in finding him at his post of duty, as his health is now 
 very precarious. The Rev. Mr. Spurgeon spoke with all his 
 old-time eloquence and earnestness, and with powerful 
 though dulcet tones exhorted his hearers by forcible Chris- 
 tian truths. The reverend gentleman has been much enfee- 
 bled of late years with illness, but his remarkable reasoning 
 voice is strong yet. with great pathos at times, as if the soul 
 of the divine preacher seemed to vibrate with intensity of 
 purpose, in his great wish to aid his fellow-men. The Tali- 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 249 
 
 ernacle is said to hold eight thousand persons, and was filled 
 in every part. 
 
 New River Company, London, England. 
 
 In closing this section of my book, on the vast metropolis, 
 London, a paragraph from the New York Morning Journal 
 of July 19, 1889, wherein is a cablegram announcing shares 
 at a fabulous figure, may be read with interest : — 
 
 " London, England, July 18, 1889. — A single share of 
 the New River Company, which many years ago was origi- 
 nally sold at the par value of £100, was disposed of at auc- 
 tion yesterday for the immense sum of £122,81)0. This 
 company supplies half of London with water, and owns 
 many valuable estates, running down to the river's bank, 
 which have increased in a course of years to almost fabulous 
 worth. The financial growth of the famed New River Com- 
 pany is something tremendous. Last year it declared a 
 divid nd of £2,610 on each share." 
 
 The source of the New River we think commences from a 
 spring in one of the Knglish counties of Herefordshire, flow- 
 ing through beautiful hind till it reaches the suburbs of Lon- 
 don, and then is conveyed through large pipes to the mam- 
 moth city. The scheme of supplying London with good, 
 fresh, filtered water came from a Mr. Huuh Mydelton, a 
 gentleman of means, who, with some wealthy friends, invested 
 their all in this expensive project, and became poor by its 
 comparative failure ; in time others took up the scheme, and, 
 after passing through various vicissitudes, it ultimately, in 
 after years, resulted in great success. The originator was 
 knighted by the monarch then ruling, Charles I., and money 
 was subscribed sufficient for the wants of Sir Hugh Mydel- 
 ton, for his grand efforts. The writer of these rambles, 
 when a boy. often used to fish in the beautiful New River, 
 on the outskirts of London, to keep the water, we boys used 
 to say, k< from getting fishy." But the river keepers invari- 
 ably warned us off with threats of arrest, though the same 
 officials used to net the waters at night-time. In some parts 
 the New Hiver is very narrow, and appears as quite a small 
 stream 
 
250 
 
 RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 
 
 Across the Atlantic ; Queenstown to New York. 
 
 In returning to America from Great Britain, after a pleas- 
 ant sojourn of three months' duration, and at the termination 
 of a somewhat rough September voyage, we arrived safely 
 in New York harbor by the steamship " Austral " (spoken of 
 above) en route to my (then) New Bedford home. 
 
 Kindly allow me, before 1 close these Rambles, to say : in 
 describing our wanderings by sea and bind, my chief difficulty 
 has been like many other writers, who cannot represent all 
 
 
 they see ; the task is, what to leave out, which is oftentimes 
 very puzzling, as there is so much that is edifying and beau- 
 tiful of the world's grand arena, which to omit mentioning is 
 no easy matter. One can only hope, in the many journev- 
 ings spoken of, that the spirit ami the wide range of travel 
 have been entered into with careful accuracy, as it would be 
 almost impossible to describe in true form the varied beauties 
 of Nature's great and sublime handiwork as they really are, 
 and how inadequate would any pen-picture be, however 
 graphically written. In thanking the patient reader for his 
 company in my " Rambles of Past and Present Time," we 
 trust that the descriptive sketches of place and character 
 
RAMBLES IN AMERICA. 251 
 
 herein depicted may have been such as to amuse, instruct, 
 and beguile the tedium of a passing hour ; and, like the 
 artist's illustration of the ocean steamer just hove to at her 
 moorings, the writer of these pages can rest for a time, after 
 his manifold labors, which, though attended with many cares, 
 have ever been a great source of pleasure to him. 
 
 The End. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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