, f ^ rj? T - V '<<■ rP" -- i» ' \« ■■<■ v ** f o* ^ i1 /*., .N .'♦., „■.' ap- . o ►,,,- x v ,, e- v*" k« ^ % v > v v s -\> ,. 1*0, V. \' ■> .... '/ ' A- ^ ,. . -P. c. ' '. %>_ ^ Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2011 with funding from The Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/laceguideformakeOOwhit A LACE GUIDE for MAKERS AND COLLECTORS WITH BIBLIOGRAPHY AND FIVE-LANGUAGE NOMENCLATURE Profusely illustrated with halftone plates a?id key designs By GERTRUDE WHITING Graduated as Professor by the Institut Professional N euchatelois de Dentelles : Founder and President of the Needle and Bobbin Club: Lace specialist on the Committee on Occupation of the Department of Public Charities, New York City. NEW YORK E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY 681 FIFTH AVENUE Copyright 1920 By E. P. Dutton & Company All Rights Reserved JAN 25 1920 Printed in the United States of America ©CI A559583 /\A9 I 6 DEDICATION Minnewaska, New Yoek, August 31st, 1917. My Dear Miss Burt : Most of us must put aside costly pleasures now that America is fighting by the side and under the tutelage of the fine, old, lace-making countries ; offering them willing hands, keen eyes, and much besides ; ready to succor and nurse them until they can again clothe fair lands with rich artistic skill ; ready among other things to bring home something of the old world's mellow charm, that the joy of beauty as well as practical ability and high morale may be instilled in American boys and girls. America is eager indeed to encourage art ; that is, the harmony of the material, a link drawing the physical towards the spiritual, and adding to the utilitarian a simple grace, an uplifting charm. But in spite of the sacrifices necessary to aid and save our elder sisters and to develop the best that is in us, we shall not have to forego love and friendly fellowship and gratitude. So the costs of war (and doctors) cannot take from me either the pleasure of association with you or gratitude for your freely given afternoons, helping me to mount these illustrations for the printer when my arms were too lame to work, and for your unselfish patience and encourage- ment. Having unruly arms and other ailments, is truly worth while when it points the way to generous hearts and kind, new friends ! Sincerely, Gertrude Whiting. To Miss Juliet Burt, Cincinnati, Ohio. CONTENTS PAGE Diageam of Samplee Iii back cover pocket Dedication 5 Chaptee I — By Way of Introduction 13 Poem — The Lace Maker 19 Chaptee II — Suggestions 22 Chaptee III — Explanations and Nomenclature 35 NOMENCLATURE 37 Chaptee IV — Eules 69 Chaptee V — Bibliography 243 Index op Bobbin Lace Grounds and Fillings 403 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE The Lace Maker, by Pieter van den Bosch 18 Old Bobbin (From the Author's Collection) 21 Adjustable Easel-like Stand for Spanish Lace Pillow 24 Long, Spiral Spring in Place 25 Showing Bobbins Couched Between Bands of Bibbon 27 Placing One End of Skein Over the Left Thumb 30 Laying the Other End of the Skein Around the Little Finger 31 Bobbins Can Be Easily and Quickly Wound 32 Old Ehode Island Whale-Ivory, Reel, Winder, or "Swift" (From the Author's Collection) 34 A LACE GUIDE for MAKERS and COLLECTORS CHAPTER I BY WAY OF INTRODUCTION " 'In time of war prepare for peace.' For there will be a future. And in that future there will be emulation, if not rivalry, among the peoples of the earth. And the victor's wreath, as well as more substantial fruits will be given to those who can produce most cunningly the things that peaceful people desire — such as chairs, tables, beds, clothing, utensils, adornments, jew- elry, and all things of use or ornament that make men comfortable and tend to to make them joyous. "Then . . . the nations whose workers in dusty factories transform earths into clumsy dishes for common use will get ... a modest or a decent living; but the nations whose skilled artisans, guided by gifted and trained artists, turn those same materials into forms of grace adorned with lines of beauty, will receive fame and fortune, and set their childen's feet on those broad plateaus where knowledge and power and enjoyment are to be had." — Bulletin of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. This little manual is the outcome of six summers' work under the encour- agement of the lace director of the Metropolitan Museum. Eealization of the fact that in 1912 the museum had few examples of meshes except such as ap- peared in scattered bits throughout the delightful collection of berthas, trains, fichus, et cetera, that it was difficult to compare the effects of these stitches worked in different sized threads, in designs and spaces of varying forms, and at different ends of the rooms, and that the few mesh specimens the galleries had, were more or less scantily named, the suggestion arose that a comparative, indexed sampler of bobbin lace grounds and fillings be made. It is hoped that it may prove of use to students of stitchery in general, — or of bobbin lace in particular, — to see how certain meshes are woven; that it may aid those planning to produce lace, either by hand or machine, in comparing and judging effects, in advance, and that it may assist collectors and classifiers to identify lace: for after all, it is the actual stitch which finally determines a variety, only certain meshes being used in a lace of pure type. As different authors and localities use diverse names for the same thing, several appelations have been indicated for many of the samples. The index down the two sides of the sampler should be used as one given with a map : — tracing down from the number noted at the top, and inwards from the letter at the side : the point of junction showing the lace in question. At first an attempt was made to grade and assort the different kinds of stitches ; but this was found impracticable, for as the work grew, meshes found here and there, in the country, in the city, on a gown, in a book, were incor- 13 14 BY WAY OF INTltODUCTION porated. Nor were all by any means exhausted : but some limit had to be chosen, so it was decided to stop when an even gross of samples, or a half-dozen seasons' work had been completed. The two extra meshes illustrated over and above the twelve dozen, are the bobbin-made bands which frame and connect the whole, and one little sample made at the very end for fun, partly because the extra pattern was already drawn, and partly because of a dislike to show preference to one little mite, consigning the other to the waste pape'r basket — though many ought doubtless to be there. Perhaps a word of explanation should be said about the twenty Trude Grounds. They are fancies of the maker's imagination, thrown in for what- ever they may be worth; perhaps out of pique, just to show that, rudimentary as they may be, America has at least the beginnings of an ability to originate her own lace. A. Penderel Moody writes, "Fillings should be to the lace-maker what a jewel is to the goldsmith. The choice of each for its particular setting will call for the exercise of equal taste and discretion. These stitches are known as 'modes,' or 'jours,' in the great outside world, of which the village worker knows so little; needless to say such terms are unknown in the West Country, where as often as not, we talk of them as 'villins.' "The fillings enrich the work, and also by judicious arrangement break up the monotony of a repeating design. "The individuality, if one may so express it, of a piece of lace, is enhanced by these small changes, and while the foundation remains unaltered, each repeat is slightly different, emphasizing the fact that it is not machine-made. ' ' The space to be filled will often vary greatly in shape and size. Here it rests with the worker to decide which is the most suitable stitch to use, and the best point at which to hang on. "It will often happen that by starting at one particular point, some bobbins may be cut off on the one side in time to allow their being used again for the widening of the pattern elsewhere. Naturally, this is a saving of trouble, but the worker must bear in mind when pricking her filling that if, to avoid the use of extra bobbins, she works at a wrong angle, the effect of her work is spoilt. ' ' The illustrations of stitches in this book are taken from the sampler, the patterns or prickings are the ones made and used in connection with it, and the text is an attempt to describe how to weave these nets and modes. Arch- itects' tracing-cloth can be laid over the designs in the book, the cloth moved along two inches at a time until as long a pattern as desired has been traced. Black, waterproof ink is the best for this purpose. The tracing need not be mounted, but can be laid upon Bristol or press-board for greater strength, the same pins holding both board and tracing-paper in place. At first glance the mesh-making instructions will seem bewildering: but if each one is read entirely through just before using it, and then is followed step by step, the making of the lace will unfold without real difficulty. Several of the fillings are complicated and one is apt at the start to forget some detail and have to undo ; but after about one inch of lace has been successfully made, these BY WAY OF INTRODUCTION 15 tricky points will have become impressed upon the mind, and thereafter cause no annoyance. The descriptions are not intended for the absolute beginner; but, on the contrary, presuppose a little knowledge of how to handle the bob- bins ; and of how to adapt or transfer a coveted groundwork to the lace in which it is to be used, or to make of it a plain, solid, insertion by simply adding an ap- propriate edge or finish. However, the privilege has been taken of adding a few general remarks and instructions that it is hoped may not be considered too irrelevant; particularly as they are the result of only limited, personal ex- perience. The more the author studies, the deeper she inquires, the better she realizes the possibilities and complexities of her subject, and the likelihood of error and confusion. There are several books of manual instruction for bobbin- lace beginners, among them : — "The Priscilla Bobbin Lace Book." "Pillow Lace" by Elizabeth Mineoff and Margaret S. Marriage. "The Art of Bobbin Lace" by L. and B. Tebbs. "La Dentelle" by Mme. Marguerite de Brieuvres. "Manuel de Dentelles aux Fuseaux" by Mme. H. H. de Juillien. "D. M. C. Library Encyclopedia of Needlework" (translated into all prin- cipal languages) by Therese de Dillmont. "Bibliothek D. M. C— die Kloppelspitzen, lte Serie." A book giving elementary instruction, unexplained by cuts: but also ad- vanced rules and stitches with illustrations : and one that is recommended in connection with "A Lace Guide for Makers and Collectors" is: — "Devon Pillow Lace, Its History and How to Make It" by A. Penderel Moody. In an article written some years ago, Mrs. Florence G. Weber says, "At Burano in the Royal Lace School under Queen Margherita's patronage, I found splendid conditions. The girls work from nine to twelve, and from two to four. The patterns are all dark colors. They wear clean cotton dresses and dark cotton aprons. Take note, feminine reader, you who put on a dazzling white apron when you sit down to fine work ! It was my good fortune to see the girls come out at noon. They wear a cotton kerchief pinned over the head to keep their hair clean. Their shoes are simply a sole of wood held on by a leather strap over the instep. At every step, the wooden sole clicks on the street. As the girls poured out of the shop, the noise of their shoes reached us a block away, until the whole three hundred pairs of wooden soles clicking over the stone pave- ment produced in me much the same feeling as the musical rattle of hundreds of lace-bobbins. When I hear it blended with the soft voices of my girls, it suggests at once the combination of industry and the joy of youthful content. I was full of theories when I went to Europe : my experience with the girls in our shop had been that lace-making first of all is a joy to the worker. It is a pursuit so refined, so ennobling, that this fact alone is a plea for our industry in Boston. In Europe, my theories proved true. In the lace-making villages, the women are of superior type. They are never idle. Their manners and voices are gentle. Their work is a constant joy. Never did I find one who admitted it a strain 16 BY WAY OF INTRODUCTION upon the eyes. Do not believe all the constantly published paragraphs about lace-makers going blind in factories ! The lace is no longer made under painful conditions — in damp cellars. Good lace-makers are valuable to their employers and skill is to be treasured, not abused. They do not work in dark rooms at all, but in upper stories of well-lighted and well-ventilated buildings. Personal cleanliness is essential at all times." The following paragraph from "Lace-Making in the Midlands" by C. C. Channer and M. E. Roberts gives us another glimpse into the life of the lace- maker, showing us that in England as in Italy "there is a freemasonry between lace workers which, once formed, is very strong; a feeling of kinship which is not easily understood by those outside" — the "spell that lace seldom fails to throw over its devotees. ' ' ' ' There are hundreds of women between sixty and ninety years of age quite unfit for any other kind of work who keep themselves by it in independence; any lace-buyer can count up a large number who keep their husbands as well — husbands past work, crippled, or blind, or bedridden. The old mother living in the son's or daughter's house, past being any assistance in the housework, feels the delight of not being a burden on the hard-pressed children. She can sit at her pillow part of the day and earn the four or five shillings a week which keeps her. Perhaps to the aged the occupation is almost as great a boon as the earn- ings, and this accounts for the intense pleasure with which the work is almost always spoken of. When sons and daughters are all grown up and gone away, the long days may be unspeakably dull to the old couple, but the wife can always make herself happy turning over the bobbins. We went to see a widow, over eighty years old, living all alone, and tried to buy some of her beautiful lace. 'When my husband was alive,' she said, 'he didn't care for me working at it, so I put it on one side; but now he's dead, I couldn't do without it, I should be so dull.' She could not sell us any of her work, she had orders that would keep her busy for months to come. "But it is not only the aged who are glad of the work; .the mother of the family finds it a great help. When the housework is done, and the children are all away at school, she can sit down and work for a couple of hours, and the week's earnings will be a comfortable addition to her man's wages, especially when there is a large family. There is no other industry so convenient for the home. It is clean work and needs cleanliness, for lace must be spotlessly white if the worker is to get her full price. It creates no litter and no untidiness. The pillow stands by the window with a cloth thrown over it and the chair ready before it. When baby is put to sleep, the mother has but to lift the cloth and begin her work : there is no getting out of material and implements, and no put- ting away and clearing up when the children come home to tea. Where certain other work is taken at home, the littered floor and whirring machine make an unpleasant contrast to the tidiness and quietness of the bobbins with their little subdued rattle so pleasant to the ear. Lace-making is not tiring, nor in any way trying ; given suitable spectacles for the old women, it is not at all trying to the eyes — indeed, an expert worker on a lace she knows well, looks at it no more than a needlewoman looks at a long seam. 'I could do it with my eyes shut' is a phrase one often hears of lace-making, but we take that statement for BY WAT OF INTRODUCTION 17 what it is worth. It is not monotonous work, for even in the simplest lace the pattern creates a variety of motion and sufficient occupation for the mind. 'My mother always said that to sit down to her pillow was the best rest she could have after her work, ' we have been told by the daughter of a famous lace-maker. ' ' "Art gracieux, travail bienfaisant", wrote M. Engerand. "Sa nature meme se concilie avec les obligations de la vie rurale; on le quitte et reprend sans dommage. C'est 1 'ideal d'un travail feminin, peu fatigant, presque recreatif, distingue, s'exergant a la maison; dans la belle saison, en plein air ou sous les pommiers ; procurant aux enf ants un salaire presque immediat, permettant aux vieilles de gagner quelque argent jusqu'a la mort. Est-il vraiment beaucoup d'industries plus touchantes, plus interessantes, mieux adaptees aux necessites de la vie des champs?" 18 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS THE LACE MAKER. By Pieter van den Bosch. TEE LACE-MAKER 19 THE LACE-MAKER. When in doubt, when in dread, When her sky's overblown, To the plier of thread- Gentle artist unknown — Comes the blessing of work, Of her fine, quiet work. Her poor form can relax As with pillow she sits, Deftly weaving the flax That is wound on her sticks, On her bobbins is wound, To their spindles is bound. Oh, such merry tools these, Quaintly carved and turned, Tinkling, trying to please With the lullabies, learned As they twist, mingle, toss In life's take, give and cross! As the rhythmic repeat Of their come and their go Soon becalms by its beat, By its cadences, so Her resistance it smoothes, It uplifts and it soothes. From her fingers is shed By the exercise light All the nerve-poison bred Through her worrisome plight ; It unconsciously slips, As it were, from their tips. 20 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS Not, perhaps, sensing how : Yet her sore troubled mind "By the sweat of the brow" — The work's light though in kind — Has ceased fretting, grown clear, Forgot self, forgot fear. Unpreoccupied, free And receptive at last, Like the heart of a wee Little child, unharrassed, Is the thread worker's soul, Ay, her patient-grown soul. She can now hear the voice — ■ That "still small voice" of God's— That leads all to rejoice, Fills their souls with the Lord's Inexpressible peace; Peace which never need cease E'en midst tumult and war, If our part therein's just And we seek nothing more Than the duty we must Carry out and with cheer, Carry on without fear. Thus her struggle so true That her heart's very beat Has rung upward and through To the Heavenly Feet : Yea, her effort sincere To do right, persevere, TEE LACE-MAKER 21 Has brought insight and cheer, Taught her lace-maker's skill — Skill so oft without peer — Taught her faltering will, To work on, not to slack, To "look forward, not back": That God helps us to cope With our troubles, if we Will keep on and but hope, Will but lowlier be, Not obsessed by dismay, Not obstructing the way: Taught her hands and her mind Nimbly forward to fly, Spinning each in its kind, And with patience to ply, Weaving fabrics of worth, Adding grace to the Earth. OLD LACE BOBBIN. (From the Author's collection.) CHAPTEE II SUGGESTIONS "Who would believe/' said the weaver of braid one day to his neighbor the lace-maker, "that 1 ell of thy lace should be worth more francs than 10 ells of 2 carat gold galloon?" "Thou oughtest not be surprised," she answered, "that my merchandise should have a value so greatly above thine; that is because Art is worth more than Matter." — From Thomas de Yriarte, 1750. Teneriffe. In the chapter on Tools in "Pillow Lace" by Elizabeth Mincoff and Margaret S. Marriage, the writer says : — "Here I should like to protest against the hide-bound conservatism that rules — sad to say — especially in women 's handicrafts. Why should we so illib- erally cling to some traditional way of holding the hands in our work as the only correct one ? Why cannot we recognize the fact that our hands are shaped differently, the strength of our muscles balanced differently, that some are stronger in the wrist, some in the fingers, and so can never use their force to best advantage by all trying to pose themselves in some one accepted tra- ditional way? "In many parts it is traditionally correct to hold a great number of bob- bins in the hands while working. It is possible in this way for some to econo- mize the time they would spend in taking up and setting down the pairs in use. But that is no reason why the beginner should feel herself clumsy and amateurish because she can work better with only two pair in hand at a time. This is much less confusing, and I have known a fairly experienced worker to waste more than the time she gained in having the bobbins so close at hand, by being obliged to undo a good part of her work because she had got hold of the wrong pairs. The Flemish lace-makers, who work very fast indeed, retain no bobbins in the hands, but let them all lie in a row on a stiff card fastened across the pillow, lifting each bobbin in turn over the next. "Work in the way that comes natural to you. There is no need to follow slavishly the rules laid down in this or in any other book, in order to become expert. If the instructions given here appear precise and dogmatic, it is be- cause to give a choice of methods confuses and worries the beginner, not that only one road 'leads to Borne.' Later on, the worker, gaining experience, will find short cuts and ways of her own. "Take pains to find the most comfortable pose for working, the best heights for table, stand, and chair, so that you do not have to bend over your work, nor fatigue your arms with raising them unduly. These details, un- 22 SUGGESTIONS 23 noticed at first through, absorption in the work, afterwards make themselves most unpleasantly apparent in stiff neck or arms. "Do not hurry because you have heard professional workers clicking their bobbins at a great rate ; remember that they mostly make one pattern day after day. The amateur has no need to turn herself into a machine, and cannot ex- pect to work as fast as if she did so. Lace-making is a pleasant and soothing employment; if it 'excites the nerves,' as I have heard German ladies com- plain, it is because the worker does not take it in the right spirit, either re- garding it as a task to be finished quickly, or as an opportunity of 'showing off.' " The advantages of the Spanish, lace pillow are many. This upright, cylin- drical pillow, used also by the revivors of Swiss lace-making, can be placed in an adjustable easel-like stand, or its lower end put upon the worker's knees, while the upper end leans upon a chair-back, against a table-edge or wall ; or should the lace-maker be outdoors, a tape or ribbon can be secured behind the pillow by a pin, then this band can be crossed over and behind the worker's shoulders, brought forward and tied around the waist. The disadvantage of this last method is that when one leans forward to inspect a certain point, the pillow tips for- ward with one. Should the chair-backs available be rounded up instead of being scooped, a soft pillow, or a divided air-cushion placed between cushion and chair will keep the former from rolling or sliding. No basket, box, table or foot-stool is necessary. The work is level with the eyes, avoiding a bent-necked, stoop- ing, hollow-chested position, making it unnecessary to hold the arms in a tire- some, spread-eagle way above the work, but allowing the elbows to fall naturally, for the bobbins hang down into the hands, making it possible to manipulate six- teen at once, instead of lifting one slowly above another ; or in an effort to hurry, throwing one out of place too far beyond the other. The hanging of the bobbins keeps the threads taut and the lace smooth, without ugly loops. Suspended bob- bins do not slip out of their nooses as do those lying on a horizontal pillow, nor can they roll sideways and backwards out of place, but naturally remain on the front of the cushion. Brass pins bend and steel ones rust, so that nickel-plated tin seem to be the most all-around. The heads should be small, so as not to obstruct the view of the work beneath them, and so as not easily to catch threads when one is making a serpentine or tape-like design, when, of course, the pins are supposed to be pushed all the way into the pillow. For this reason pins should not be too long, and on account of fine laces, the shanks should be slim. The ordinary pin found in nearly all large American department stores that seems best to fulfil all these requirements, is Kirby, Beard and Company's S.W. Ne Plus Ultra, Solid Head, Smooth, Adamantine Points, % of an inch long. However, special lace- makers ' pins can be bought in Europe. A long fine pin is very useful in reach- ing in among the others to push something into place, or to assist in untying a knot. Long, spiral, steel springs can be obtained, pinned to stand out straight hori- zontally against the cushion, or wrapped around it and hooked behind, at a height or level just above the heads of the bobbins, so the threads will fall between its meshes and remain in place. To prevent having to lift each thread out from 24 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS ADJUSTABLE BASEL-LIKE STAND FOE SPANISH LACE PILLOW. SUGGESTIONS 25 LONG, SPIRAL SPRING IN PLACE. 26 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS a deep cleft between spirals, the spring should be of small diameter ; say a quar- ter of an inch. If it is not brass or nickel plate, it should be kept carefully free of rust. One can conveniently couch hundreds of bobbins or sticks in the order in which they are used by laying a broad tape or ribbon between superimposed lay- ers of them, thus keeping an upper layer from falling into those beneath. A long tape is pinned at its centre to the middle of the pillow, and the right-hand end forms a zigzag back and forth from the centre to the right-hand edge. The left end zigzags back and forth between the left-hand layers of bobbins. Of course, a large supporting pin has to be placed in the middle and at each end to turn or wrap the tape around. The outer edge bobbins should be placed first, the left-hand ones way to the left, the right-hand ones way to the right. Then both sides are filled up to the centre pin, pair by pair. Now the tape, starting at the middle, is laid flatly over this first layer of bobbins, each end of the tape in its own direction over the big end pins. Starting at the centre from where one left off, adhering to respective sides, another layer of bobbins is couched until one reaches the two outer pins ; when the tape going around these pins, returns to be folded around the centre support, so that more bobbins can be added; and so on. When the lace-maker is using the bottommost bobbins at the left of the lace, the other left edge bobbins are laid in the same orderly fashion upon the right-hand ones — with tape between, of course. Thus, first the left is laid upon the right-hand pile, then vice versa ; and if done regularly, the bobbin next wanted will generally be the next to hand. Long stiff pins can be ranged fan-like to sep- arate pairs, or to hang successive pairs upon. This avoids confusion, broken threads, knots, eye-strain and loss of time. Some schools teach that it is advis- able to adhere to a fixed, orderly method of starting lace, and on account of the securing of cutworks, the left 'side has proved the more advantageous to begin from. Therefore, by first couching the right-hand bobbins, the left-hand ones come nearer the top. In many cases, however, it is just as easy to begin weav- ing at the centre without first unpiling the bobbins. To unpile, one lays the top left-hand layer of bobbins upon the top right-hand layer, doubles back the right- hand tape once more, and so forth until the bottom or edge left-hand bobbins are exposed, ready for working. One then works layer by layer towards the centre. A pillow should never be put aside without first securing a ribbon firmly over even the top layer of bobbins and pinning it down tightly, so nothing can slip and no one can inadvertently upset the work. Time is not then lost in recommencing later on. And the pillow, first swathed in a roll of clean, washable linen or silk, can be safely taken about in a shawl-strap or steamer-rug roll. This inside cover should be kept around the pillow even at home, to prevent dust or insects from settling upon the lace, and to lay under and behind the cush- ion when in use, to keep pins on the back of it from scratching wall or furni- ture. Cover and bobbins should be scrubbed before starting a new piece of work ; but bobbins ought not to be soaked, as they are liable to warp. Should a creamy lace be desired, it would be better to rely upon unbleached linen, than upon the discoloration that comes from careless handling, for this of course, rots the thread and lessens the value of the product. Moreover, should the work become more tawny than intended and so require washing, there is risk of spoiling the original SUGGESTIONS 27 SHOWING BOBBINS COUCHED BETWEEN BANDS OF RIBBON. 28 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS charm of its delicate and perishable web. A damp washcloth can be kept in a rub- ber sponge bag or pocket at one's side and used whenever the hands feel sticky. Or those who suffer from moist hands, can use some of the various toilet prepara- tions on the market; keeping the hands soft, nevertheless, by the use of some soothing balm or lotion. When tape laces are made on the Spanish or Mexican pillow, a stiff felt not quite half an inch thick and about ten inches square, is attached to the pillow by one or two pins and turned or tipped from side to side as the serpentine design progresses. The bobbins therefore, always bang in the normal position and do not entangle themselves helter-skelter by catching in pins behind them in the work already completed. Such felt can be procured at a harness shop ; or better still, at a felt manufacturer's. In making long continuous strips of lace, when the lower part of the modern Swiss pillow is reached, a ribbon is laid under all the bobbins, and in tying, the outer bobbins are lifted upward and inward. This bunch is held in one hand while the last incb of work and pins are removed from the pattern. These pins should be laid over the corresponding part of the pattern on the upper part of the cushion, the bobbins so supported that the threads will not pull, and the pins pushed into their new places, thus firmly securing an inch of lace from which to work. In moving, the pins ought not to be pulled out of the lace, but only out of the pricking. The ribbon can now be removed and weaving continued. Art needlework departments and fancy work shops keep pointed and blunt ended tweezers, which save one's nails and fingers a good deal of damage in re- moving pins. The cylindrical pillow is about 26 inches long by 7 inches in diameter. Long clean straw is tightly tied together, some of the heads of the straw placed along- side some of the stalk ends to assure even thickness. If the cushion is thin and slight in diameter, there is less width of surface upon which to spread the bob- bins. When the desired diameter has been obtained, the ends of the straw are chopped off to the correct length. A heavy roll of ticking or denham is sewed tightly over the straw and two circular ends are sewed on. Short or long pattern-prickings canbe used upon this upright pillow, and two or three different pieces of lace can be in the making at once on different sides of the cushion, thus varying the work and relieving possible monotony. Two exactly similar, short patterns can be used on no matter what type of cush- ion, by placing one alternately below the other, and when the first one is all worked and the pins removed, placing that in turn below the one which was pre- viously below it. It is easier to see and work on a dark pattern with light lines than on a light pricking with black lines, as white threads stand out more dis- tinctly against a dark background. Bahrenburg, 401 Lafayette Street, New York City, sells a soft, light green "Mytho" Bristol board No. 533, 20 by 32 inches, that is light enough to show ink marks clearly, dull enough to rest the eyes, and is interlined with muslin to pre- vent tearing; an excellent material for bobbin lace prickings. If one sits with a window or lamp directly to the right or left, one side of the thread is in the lig'ht, the other in the shadow, thus showing more plainly than when the light comes over the shoulder making all the threads dead white, not SUGGESTIONS 29 outlining one against the other. Splendid adjustable lamps now come, throw- ing their light in four directions. The three direction lamps are not fully ade- quate, and the addition of a movable blinder is a great help. The three direc- tions in which many lamps move, are a sliding up and down motion, a swinging to the right and left, and a tilting to the right and left. They should also tilt or turn up and down as well as slide, just as a snake-necked lamp will ; for the light should not shine downwards through the lace pins, casting shadows onto the working space, but upwards through the working place in among the pins, so the work just finished can also be observed. And the light beams should not flare out sideways into one's eyes. There is a modern theory that one should not look through a layer of darkness into a band of light, as this might cause a contra- dictory contraction and expansion of the pupil of the eye. But to execute lace in a diffused light is certainly very trying. The happy medium might be to place oneself in a broad, general light and then add a concentrated light directed solely upon the work. In this connection it may be interesting to note that in European lace-making communities, each worker has a bottle or jar of water tinted blue which she places in front of a candle or lamp to concentrate yet soften the light thrown upon her pillow. In weaving wide lace, also in using fine thread, or for the so-called Italian method (that is, sewing or crochetage), slim, pointed Devonshire bobbins will be found to take up much less room, and their pointedness and lack of protruding flanges (the thread space is indented) allow them to slip easily through a loop. See the illustration in the lower right-hand corner of the sampler diagram. A reel or yarn winder, though convenient, can be dispensed with, as a skein of thread can be held around the left hand and wound onto a spool or bit of card- board in the right hand, by just placing one end of the skein over the left thumb, bringing the skein across the inside of the hand and around, across the back; again over the palm and around the back a second time ; then across the inside of the fingers, a third time, laying the other end of the skein around the little fin- ger. The fingers and thumb should then be stretched apart to keep the thread from slipping off. Care should be taken not to twist one strand of the skein over the other, but to keep the two sides parallel. Some people prefer to shrink each skein before using it. A bobbin winder is an unnecessary article for a lace-maker to store or carry about with her, as the bobbins can be easily and quickly wound by tying a heavy white thread, preferably a tightly twisted or glazed one, single or doubled, to a long pin, and sticking the pin firmly into one's pillow or the upholstered arm of a convenient chair. The point of the pin in this case should be slanted towards one to anchor the work, as in hemming. Here it might be parenthetically said, that in bobbin lace-making, pins should always be placed somewhat at this angle in order that they may not give and allow threads to slip out of place; but they should, however, all slant at the same angle. The heavy white thread referred to in a previous sentence is called a cable. A cable should be, roughly speaking, about eighteen inches long: but many workers prefer a very much shorter one. The loose, lower part, not necessarily the very end, of the cable is customarily held firmly by the left thumb twice around the forefinger of the left hand, com- ing up in front of it. To secure the lace thread to the bobbin, an end should so A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS PLACING ONE END OF SKEIN OVER THE LEFT THUMB. SUGGESTIONS 31 LAYING THE OTHER END OF THE SKEIN AROUND THE LITTLE FINGER. 32 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS BOBBINS CAN BE EASILY AND QUICKLY WOUND. SUGGESTIONS 33 be placed towards the right across the handle flange at the lower end of the spindle and held there for a moment by the right forefinger. Then winding the thread twice down behind the back and up around the front of the spindle, one turns the thread end back towards the left across these two twists, using the left thumb and forefinger, replacing the right-hand finger to secure the reversed end, while one continues to wind three or four rounds of thread on top of it. The worker can then begin using the cable, in the meantime replacing the first right- hand finger by the second if necessary. The lace spool or thread holder is laid in one's lap or somewhere else just below the left hand, and the lace thread comes up to the bobbin on which it is to be wound, behind the little and forefingers, in front of the two center ones of the left hand. This permits of an adjustable ten- sion. The bobbin is held horizontally in the light hand with its head towards the left, the handle sloped slightly to the right to make the thread wind nearer the handle end than the cable end of the spindle. The thread groove around the head of the bobbin or upper end of its spindle just nest to the spreading head flange, is laid in front of and against the cable. The lower end of the cable is then brought up in front of, over the bobbin, and down behind it, making one loop around — without a knot. The bobbin should slip or slide up and down in this loop, so the loop ought not to be kept too tight or the bobbin cannot move. If, however, the cable is too loose, the bobbin will slip out. Practically the whole trick lies in this tension : but that this is easily and quickly mastered, is shown by the fact that some little four-year-old, meningitis patients learned it without dif- ficulty. The cable must be around the stick only, not in with the thread, or the bobbin cannot turn. The two first fingers of the right hand are placed above and down behind the bobbin to the left of its handle-flange, the other two right- hand fingers are similarly placed: but to the light of the flange: the forefinger to the left of the cable, the other three to the right, one over the thread or spin- dle part, two over the handle. This keeps the bobbin properly centered, and these fingers are used to push or slide the bobbin down the cable, allowing the stick to roll. The thumb of the right hand is placed below the bobbin to the right of the cable and handle-flange, in what is the slender part of most bobbin han- dles, thus leaving a clear view of whether the thread is winding smoothly; and pushing the stick upwards on the return movement without the bobbin's rolling. To prevent its rolling, the thumb, of course, grips it more tightly for the mo- ment. Once this simple trick is mastered, it seems very easy and is great fun ; in fact, one feels as though one were playing a game rather than really working. If the bobbins are wound on the two ends of the same thread, winding the first from the spool or ball, then measuring and cutting off what one wants for the second stick, no knot appears at the beginning of the lace. Knots, of course, have to be avoided in the midst of fine w ork, when one is adding an extra pair astride the weavers right in the middle, where there is no seam or pin. Begin- ners find it easier to knot two threads together around a pin at the start of a new piece : for otherwise until a little lace has been woven, securing the threads, one bobbin of a pair, when pulled, pulls up its mate on the other end of the thread. To wind sticks in advance and keep them until needed without tangling, one can 34 A LACE GUIDE FOB MAKERS AND COLLECTORS wind each bobbin rigbt up to the middle of the thread, there making the usual slip-noose, bringing the second stick close up to the first, with not more than a half inch of loose thread between them. Should one wish, an elastic band can then be slipped over the two handles. OLD EHODE ISLAND WHALE-IVORY REEL, WINDER OR "SWIFT." (From the Author's collection.) CHAPTER III EXPLANATIONS AND NOMENCLATURE "The most perfect must by reason of its very perfection lack the impression of life which the very faults and irregularities of human handiwork can alone produce." There are two general definitions of lace : — one, that it is any fancy work which consists of more or about as mnch open space as solid part, including such products as drawn-work, reticello, cutwork, punched-work, darned net or tam- bour work, and Carrickmacross, which is the application of muslin onto net; — the other, that lace is evolved entirely from a simple length of thread, without the foundation or addition of linen, net or any other fabric. Such laces are netting, macrame, needle-point, bobbin lace, knitting, crochet and tatting. Carita says : ' ' The following words of Charles Blanc very graphically con- vey the pleasure that will assuredly result from attempting to work out the many intricate and clever stitches handed down to us through the ages. " 'When we see these traceries so skilfully plaited in which straight lines and curves intermingle, cross, branch out, disappear and recur, we experience a high pleasure in unravelling a puzzle which at first perhaps appeared to be un- decipherable, and in acknowledging that a latent arrangement may be recognized in what at first and at a distance seems an inextricable confusion. ' ' ' TERMS By twisting is meant, placing the right-hand bobbin over the left of the same pair. By crossing is meant, placing the left-hand bobbin of the right-hand pair un- der the right-hand bobbin of the left pair. By sewing, raccrochage or crochetage is meant, hooking one thread of a pair through a small opening, usually a pin hole, by means of a fine crochet hook or pin : then passing the other bobbin of the pair through this loop, and closing the loop by pulling up the first bobbin. By closing is meant making the same stitch after placing a pin, as one made just prior to placing it. By half-stitch is meant twisting, crossing. By cloth or linen stitch is meant crossing, twisting, crossing. By whole or double stitch is meant the half-stitch repeated. By Winkie Pin is meant an edge where the weaver comes out (sometimes twisted, sometimes not) around a pin and returns to its former work. This edge is made up of many tiny loops. ■ By Bohemian Edge is meant an edge where the weaver comes out from its work and (generally after being twisted) is woven through an outside, hanging, 35 36 A LACE GUIDE FOB MAKERS AND COLLECTORS waiting pair; which then becomes the new weaver, going around a pin back into the work proper, while the former weaver hangs idly awaiting the next similar edge operation. The pin is not closed. In this way an extra pair is required, as the weavers alternate in their work. The edge formed has a solid outline. "Wincken" is the Dutch word for a quick movement, hence the English word "wink." A winkie pin edge can be made in less time and with fewer pairs than a Bohemian edge with its outside couples and e*xtra twisting. Just here it should perhaps be added that different authors use various terms for the same stitch or instrument, as indicated in the following five-lan- guage, lace nomenclature. Moreover, teachers vary in their instruction for form- ing even the elementary half, linen and whole stitches. For example: — The "Priscilla Bobbin Lace Book "says: Half throw — twist, cross. Whole throw — twist, cross, twist, cross. The "D. M. C. Library Encyclopedia of Needlework" says: Half passing — twist, cross. Double passing — twist, cross, twist, cross. "Pillow Lace" says: Half stitch — twist, cross. Cloth or whole stitch — cross, twist, cross. "Die Kloppelspitzen" says : Halbschlag — twist, cross. Granzschlag — twist, cross, twist, cross. "A Text Book on Cliray and Torchon Laces" by M. E. Woodward, says: Half point — cross, twist. A point — repeat the preceding. Point matte — cross, twist cross. "The Art of Bobbin Lace" says: Half stitch — cross, twist. Cloth stitch — cross, twist, cross. ' ' Devon Pillow Lace ' ' says : Half stitch — cross, twist. Whole stitch — cross, twist, cross. The Torchon Cooperative Lace Company, formerly of Chicago, says : Half throw — cross, twist. Linen ground — cross, twist, cross. Whole throw — cross, twist, cross, twist. The "Manuel de Dentelles aux Fuseaux" says: Demi-point — twist, cross. Point entier — cross, twist, cross. I have, therefore, chosen the system which appealed to me as the more logi- cal and thorough, although either method uniformly and consistently followed, will give the same result. jM EXPLANATIONS AND NOMENCLATURE 37 In describing the following meshes, the author has often stated that it re- quires so and so many bobbins for the making of a certain stitch. In this case, however, for the sake of making the explanation clear, the stitch has been iso- lated and described as though it were going to be woven all by itself. Should the maker wish to have several continuous lines or columns of any such mesh, not so many bobbins would be required as might at first appear. That is, if the de- scription says that one mesh requires eight bobbins and one is about to make six such stitches side by side, it will not be necessary to use six times eight bob- bins, for there is more or less give and take between pairs; that is, the strand which forms the left edge of one mesh also forms the right-hand border of an adjoining stitch. A LACE STUDENT'S NOMENCLATURE "A small thing may make Beauty, Yet Beauty is no small thing." — Michelangelo. The following lace vocabulary or, more correctly speaking, nomenclature, can be largely supplemented and improved by readers who are linguists or who have studied abroad. There are spaces where missing or more appropriate words can be inserted, giving to each volume an added and individual value. In addition to the knowledge of terms gained by the author in studying lace-making and its history in different European countries, many — very many — diction- aries and technical books have been used in checking and counter-checking, and a number of foreign authorities consulted. The names of stitches and varieties of lace are not included. See the index for a partial list of these: but the nomenclature applies to knotted, knitted, cro- cheted, needle, bobbin, run, applied and mixed lace : not, however, to the machine- made. Designing, laundering and historical terms also are given ; as well as the names of those articles frequently made of lace or trimmed with it, and the tools, materials, et cetera, used in making it. 38 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS ENGLISH FRENCH ITALIAN 1'intelligente SPANISH GERMAN Ability, dexterity, l'habilete, la dex- la desteridad, la ha- die Fahigkeit, die deftness terity, l'adresse bilitad Fertigkeit, die Geschicklichkeit Adapt, to, recon- adapter, ajuster, re- adattare adaptar, ajustar anpassen struct, to construire Admirer : see Ama- * teur Agate : see Puff iron Agent, commission la factrice, le fac- l'agente, il fattore el factor, el agente die Kauferin, die agent, middle- teur, la koop- Kommissionarin, man, collector, vrouw, la facto- der Geschaftstra- buyer, factor resse, l'interme- diaire ger Alb l'aube il camice el alba das Chorhemd Album l'album l'album, il libretto dei ricordi el album das Musterbuch Aloe (tree) l'aloes 1'aloe el aloe die Aloe Alpaca : see Mohair Altar-cloth, cere- la nappe d'autel l'altare la sabanilla das Altartuch, die cloth Altardecke Altar-hangings, al- le parement d'autel il paramento la colgadura de al- der Altarbehang tar-curtain tar Amateur (beginner, le commencant, la 1'incominciatore el aficionado der Anfanger not professional- commencante ly trained) Amateur (lover, l'amateur, l'ama- il dilettante el aficionado der Amateur fancier, admirer) trice Amber l'ambre l'ambra el ambar der Bernstein American (adj.) americain -e americano americano amerikanisch Angel 1'ange l'angelo el angel der Engel Aniline, anilin : see l'aniline l'anilino la anilina die Anilin Dyestuff Antimacassar : see l'antimacassar, la l'antimacassar el antimacassar der Schorner, die Tidy pommadiere, le dessus de fau- teuil Schutzdecke, die Sofadecke zum Schutze gegen Haarolflecke Antique (adj.) antique antico, vetusto, an- ticho antiguo alt, antik Apparatus : see l'appareil, l'usten- l'apparecchio el aparato der Apparat Tool sile, l'outil Applier (of lace) 1'appliqueuse l'applicatrice la aplicadora die Auflegerin Apply, to, onlay, appliquer applicare aplicar auflegen to : see Setting Apprentice l'apprentie l'apprendista el aprendiz der Lehrling, das Lehrmiidchen Apprenticeship l'apprentissage il tirocinio el aprendizaje die Lehrzeit Apron le tablier il grembiale el delantal die Schurze Arabesque l'arabesque l'arabesco lo arabesco die Arabeske Arrangement, dis- l'arrangement, l'ordine la disposition die Anordnung position l'agencement, l'ordonnance Artist 1'artiste l'artista el artista der Kiinstler Asbestos, amian- l'amiante 9 el asbestos der Asbest thus, amianth Assemblage l'assemblage, le il redunamento, la el conjunto das Zusammenset- point de raccroe, commessura zen le rucroc attach, to : see Tie, to Auction, sale : see la vente, l'enchere la vendita la subasta publica, die Versteigerung, Fair la almoncda die Auction, die Gant Authority : l'autorite l'autorita la autoridad dii Autoritat see Connoisseur : see Expert ENGLISH Backed (cloth or linen) (adj.) Background : see Ground Back-stitch Backwards, the wrong way, against the grain Ball, clew : see Bottom Band : see Stripe : see Roii> Band (for cap) Bangle : see Yarn- holder Bar, rod : see Pearl-tie : see Stripe Barker, decoy Baste, to, tack, to Bath - mantle, bath set Bead Bead edge, beading, narrow edge fin- ish : see Edging Beading, seaming, spacing : see In- sertion Beautiful (adj.) : see Pretty Bedspread, count- erpane, quilt Bee Beginner : see Ama- teur Belgian (adj.) Bertha, fall Bib Binding off : see Casting off Black (adj.) Blade Blind pin : see Fal- se stitch EXPLANATIONS AND NOMENCLATURE FRENCH ITALIAN SPANISH 39 monte -e le point arriere a rebours le sac la boule, la pelote, le peloton la bande la passe la barre le raccoleur le trou-trou, l'entre- lac, l'entrelas beau, bel-le le couvre-lit, la courte-pointe, le couvre-pied, la couverture, la couverte de para- de l'avette, l'abeille, 1' apette beige la berthe, le godet Bias, on the bias en biais la bavette, le ba- voir noir la lame ITALIAN SPANISH GERMAN B montato apoyado, sostenido verstarkt il punto in dietro in dietro il sacco il gomitolo, la go- mita la striscia, la lista, la benda l'ala el punto-atras, el pespunto contra pelo, al re- ves el saquito, la bolsa de mano el ovillo la venda el ala, la banda faufiler, batir l'£quipage de bain (descente de bain, sac a o- deurs, serviettes, peignoirs, garni- tures de bain avec volant) la perle la perla la dentelle gtroite il orlo imbastire l'equipage di bagno el reclamo hilvanar el equipo de bafio la passa nastri bello il coltre, la coperta il circolo di cucire el borde, la pestana bello, hermoso la colcha, la sobre- cama, el cobertor la colmena belgica bglgico la ciotola, il sco- la berta dellino sbieco, sghembo al sesgo il bavaglio el babero nero negro la lastra, la lama, la hoja la laminetta der Steppstich riickwarts der Beutel, der Sack der Knauel, der Ball das Band das Haubenband la barra, la stanga la barra, la varilla der Stift der Marktschreier, der Werber, der Schreier reihen, bastan der Bade-mantel el abalorio die Perle el encaje estrecho ? der Kettenzug, der Einsatz schon die Bettdecke das Nahkr'anzchen belgisch der Spitzenkragen die schiefe Rich- tung, in schiefer Richtung, schrag das Latzchen schwarz die Klinge 40 A LACE GUIDE FOE MAKERS AND COLLECTORS ENGLISH FRENCH ITALIAN SPANISH GERMAN Blonde, flaxen, silk- la blonde, la biset- il merletto di seta el encaje o la blon- die Blonden en : see Silk : see te da, hecho de se- Cream colored : da see Ecru Blue (adj.) bleu -e turchino, azzurro, cilestro azul blau Blunt, obtuge gmousse, gpointe, ottuso, grossolano embotado stumpf (adj.) contondant s Blunt (needle) ? l'ago contundente la aguja embotada 1 (sub.) Bob : see Crown Bobbin, stick le fuseau i fuselli, i piombini, i piombi, il maz- zette los palillos der Kloppel, der Spitzenkloppel Bobbin lace, bob- la dentelle aux fu- la trina a fuselli, el encaje hecho con die Kloppelspitze, bin work, pillow seaux, le plat il merletto a palillos die gekloppelte lace, bonelace, piombini Spitze pinwork Bobbin winder : see Winding machine Bodkin : see Stil- le passe-lacet, l'ai- l'argi per passe la agujeta 6 aguja die Durchzienadel etto guille a passer nastro, l'infila- guaine de jareta Bone (fish) (ani- l'arete, 1'os l'osso, la spina la raspa 6 espina, die Grate, der Kno- mal) el hueso chen Bonnet : see Hood le bonnet, la calot- te, la cornette la berretta la gorra, el gorro die Haube Book le livre il libro el libro das Buch Boot-tops, knee- les canons, les bas? la sorta d'ornamen- parte alta de las das Spitzenbesatz scarfs de bottes to a merletti che si metteva ai gambali delle brache sotto Lui- gi XIV botas am Knie, das Schenkelstrumpf, das Hosenbein Borax le borax il borace el borax der Bor Border : see Edg- fell )i II IS [! . ing Bottom, foot le bas il fondo el fondo das Ende Bottom (of thread) le peloton la pelot, la gomita el globo, la pelota der Knauel see Ball Boudoir cap la cornette la cufSa da notte la gorra 6 el gorro de gabinete die Morgen-haube Bout (knitting), le tour la turna la vuelta 1 round Bracelet : see Yarn- liolder Braid : see Plait : see Tape Bran : see Excel- le son la crusca, la simola el salvado die Kleie Branch, flower le ramage, le rin- ceau il ramo la rama, el ramo der Zweig Brass, latten le cuivre jaune, l'ai- il rame, il bronzo la calamina, el la- das Messing, das rain, le laiton ton Erz Bridal (adj.) nuptial nuziale nupcial hochzeitlich Bride : see Pearl- tie Bristol-board, pas- le carton fin il cartone la cartulina die Pappe teboard, press- board, cartridge paper Bronze le bronze il bronze el bronce die Bronze, die Glockenspeise Brush le pinceau •> el cepello der Pinsel Bud le bouton il bottone, il ger- moglio el boton, el capullo die Knospe, der Keim Bullion la cannetille, la fri- la canutiglia, il or- el canutillo der gakrauselte sure, la bisette, pello Goldfaden, das le clinquant Rauschgold EXPLANATIONS AND NOMENCLATURE 41 ENGLISH FRENCH ITALIAN SPANISH GERMAN Burl, to gbouler, rabattre, corriger les infi- galitfis appianare, spianare desnudar noppen Burler l'fibouleuse 1 el que quita los nu- dos en el paflo die Nopperin Burling, flattening l'6boulage, l'affais- sement •> la desmotaci6n das Noppin Burnisher : see Puff iron. Butterfly le papillon la parafalla la mariposa der Schmetterling Buttonhole, to faire le point noue, de boutonniere, de feston fare la festone ojalar, hacer ojales m i t Knopfloch- Stich ausbogen Buttonhole stitch, le point de bouton- l'occiello, il punto el punto de ojal der Knopflochstich close stitch niere, le point de feston, le point nouS a feston, il punto serrato, il pun- to a festone Buttonholing (rais- la brode 9 el bordeado o el ri- Art Alengonner ed,) outlining: beteado con pun- Spitze see Gimp : see to de ojales Outlining thread, see Finishing Buy, to, purchase, to Buyer acheter comprare comprar kaufen l'acheteur, l'ache- il compratore el comprador die Kauferin, der teuse il gabinetto Einkaufer Cabinet le cabinet el gabinete das Sammlungsca- binet Cable le cable, le grelin la gomena, il gher- lino el cable, el cordfin die Schnur Candle-board, pole- le gu^ridon il candelabro el portavela der Leuchterstuhl, board, candle- das Leuchterges- block tell Canopy, tester, ceil- le baldaquin il baldacchino del el cielo de cama der Baldachin, der ing letto, il baldac- chino Betthimmel Canvas, scrim le canevas il canavaccio, il ca- la lona, el canama- die Stickgaze, die novaccio zo Gitterleinwand, der Kanevas Cape la pelerine, le man- il mante, la pelle- la manteleta der Rad-mantel, teau grina der Kragen Cap-string la bride la legaccie, la nas- tria d'una cuffia, d'un cappellino la cinta das Bindeband Carbon, autogra- le papier autogra- la carta azzurro el calco, la copia das Kopierpapier, phic, transfer pa- phique, le papier hecha en papel das Kohlenpa- per, colored trac- bleu de caique, le transparente pier, das Lom- ing paper : see papier lombard bardpapier Tracing cloth Care cloth •> ? nuziale ? eine Deeke, die der Carnation Cartoon l'oeillet, l'oeillet- il garofano girofl£e le carton il cartone Case : see Needle- l'gtui case: see Sheath Cassock, cloak la cotte, la casaque ( worn over a cuirasse) Casting off, binding la chaine de mailles off, chain of stitches 1'astuccio, la busta, la custodia la casacca el clavel el cart6n el estuche la cota de armas el ribete de costura, la c a d e n a de mallas Braut wiihrend der Trauung iiber der Kopf gehalten wurde die Nelke d i s Muster - Vor- zeichnung das Etui der Waffenrock das Abnehmen 42 A LACE GUIDE FOB MAKERS AND COLLECTORS ENGLISH FRENCH ITALIAN SPANISH GERMAN Casting on le montage, monter la chaine, ourdir rimontare tramar anzetteln Caul : see Filet Celebration, jubi- la c616bration la festa la celebracton die Feier lee : see Fair Celluloid le celluloid, le cel- luloi'de il celluloide el celuloide • das Celluloid Centre, middle el centre, le milieu il centro el centro der Mittelpunkt Centrepiece le centre de table il centro di tavola el centro de mesa das Mittelstiick Century : see Peri- od le siecle il secolo la centuria, el siglo das Jahrhundert Chain stitch le point de chafn- ette, la maille en l'air, la maille chainette il punto a catenella el punto de cadena der Kettenstich Chalice cover, la pale, la palle, la la patena la cubierta de der Kelchdeckel paten cover : see voile de bene- plato, la cubierta Pall diction de caliz Chasuble la chasuble la pianeta la casulla das Messgewand - Cheap (adj.) bon marche buon' mercato barato wohlfeil, billig Chemical, chymical chimique chimico quimico chymisch (adj.) Chemise, shift la chemise la camicia, il ca- misciole la camisa de mujer das Hemd Chenille la chenille la ciniglia la felpilla die Chenille Chest, linen chest le coffre, le coffret la cassa, la forziere el area die Truhe, die Lade Chinese (adj.) chinois -e Chinese chinesco chinesisch Christening, bap- les robes de bap- la gonneletta di el vestido bautis- die Taufkleidung tismal clothes, teme battesimo, la ves- mal bearing cloths ta di battesimo Chronogram le chronogramme la cronogramma el cronSgrama das Chronogram, die Zahlbuchsta- beninschrift Chronological, chronologique cronologico cronolOgico chronologisch chronologic (adj.) Church Peglise la chiesa la iglesia die Kirche Circular (adj.) circulaire circolare circular kreisrund, kreisfor- Clamp, vise, hem- le crampon, la il rampone el tornillo mig die Schraubzwinge, ming-bird, clip : clampe, le pince- der Papierhalter, see Weight : see notes die Klammer, Screw ' der Schraubstock Class la classe la classe la elase die Classe Cleaning, cleansing le nettoyage, le nettoiement il nettamento la limpiadura das Reinigen Clew : see Ball : see Bottom Close, to, cover, to, fermer fermare, chiudere, cubrir nadelschliessen shut, to, repeat, serrare to : see Closing stitch Closing stitch : see le point final, le il punto di ferma el punto de remate der Schlusschlag Close, to dernier point Cloth stitch, linen le point de toile, le la punta tela el punto de tela der Leinenschlag stitch, clothing point matte, le work mat, le toils Coarse (adj.) gros -se, grossier -e grosso, grossolano grosero, basto grob, rauh Coffee le cafS il caffe el cafe der Kaffee Coffin le cercueil la bara, il cataletto el atafld der Sarg Cogwheel, notched la roue dentee, la roue a crans, le tournant 'i la rueda dentada das Zahnrad Coif, cap la calotte, la coiffe la souffia, il cap- pellino, il berret- tino, la scazzetta la cofia die Haube Cold (adj.) froid -e freddo frio kalt EXPLANATIONS AND NOMENCLATURE 43 ENGLISH C ol 1 a r , wimple, gorget, whisk : see Falling col- lar : see Standing collar: see Yoke Collecting (stitch) Collection : see Mu- seum Colored, coloured (adj.) : see Dye- stuff Combing cloth : see Razor-cloth Companion piece : see Mate Company, corpora- tion Compass Connoisseur : see Expert : see Au- thority Contraband Contrast Convent, nunnery Conventionalized Cope (choir) Copper Coptic (adj.) Copy Copy, to Cord (fancy) , draw - string, band, string : see Gimp Cork : see Excel- sior Corner Cotta Cottage (work) Cotton, gossypium Couch, to, tack, to catch down, to : see Baste, to : see Outlining thread Couple, to : see Join, to : see Tie together, to Court Covering cloth : see Sheath Cravat, Steinkirk : see Frill : see Jabot Cream (colored) : see Blonde: see Ecru : see Isabel Crease, pucker FRENCH ITALIAN le col, le collet, le il collare collier la collection colons' le peignoir la compagnie, la corporation le compas le connaisseur, la connaisseuse la contrebande le contraste le couvent rendu -e, conven- tional -le la chape le cuivre cophte, copte, coph- tique. coptique la copie copier la ganse, la corde, le lacet le liege le coin le rochet a domicile le coton coucher, batir la collezione die colore il accappatoio, il mantellino la compagnia il compasso il conoscitore, il es- perto, il istrutto il proibito il contrasto il convento la pianeta, la cappa, il piviale il rame, il calde- rone coptico, cofto la copia copiare la corda, la stringa, il lacciuolo la sughera il cantone, l'angolo il rochetto a domicilio, in casa sua il cotone posare, collocare, coricare accoupler, coupler accoppiare la cour la housse la corte la coperta la cravate couleur cafe au lait beige, crema la cravatta, il faz- zoletto SPANISH el cuello el punto de reco- gida la coleccion GERMAN der Kragen le pli, le godet, le la piega, la cattiva faux-pli Colorado el peinador la compania el compas el perito, el cono- cedor el contrabando el contraste el convento hecho convencional la capa pluvial el cobre coptico la copia copiar el cordon, la pre- silla el corcho el angulo la cota, el sobre- pelliz trabajo hecho a do- micilio el algodon ribetear parear, juntar la corte la cobertura, la funda la corbata el pliegue, la plega- dura die Sammlung farbig der Puder-mantel die Gesellschaft der Kirkle der Kenner die verbotenen W a a r e n , die Schmuggehvaare der Contrast der Convent, das Kloster stilisirt der Chorrock das Kupfer Koptisch die Copie copiren, abzeichnen die Schnur, das Schniirchen der Kork die Ecke das kurze Chor- hemd das man n a c h Hause nimmt die Baumwolle aufniilien, flach niihen zusammenkuppeln der Hof die Decke die Halsbinde, die Kravatte die Rahmfarbe die Falte 44 A LACE GUIDE FOB MAKERS AND COLLECTORS ENGLISH Crescent Crochet, to Onchet-hook, Shepherd's Hook Crochet - knitting, Tunisian knit- ting, Victorian knitting Crochet thimble : see Thimble for crochet work Cross, to Cross-section paper, point paper Cross-stitch Crown Crown (of a bon- net), bob Crowns, pin work, spines, thorns : see Rosettes Cuff, wristband : see Ruffle Curtain : see Win- dow shade Curve Cushion (sofa) : see Pillow Cut, to Cutwork Cutworks, lead- works, lerd works : see Tuft Cylinder ITALIAN la luna crescente ricamare a unci- netto l'uncinetto FRENCH le croissant crocheter le guipoir, le cro- chet le crochet-tricot, le crochet tunisien croiser mcrociare le papier quadrille ? le point croise\ le il punto croceato, gros point il punto lungo, il punto croce la couronne la corona le fond de bonnet la forma les couronnes la manchette, le parament, le parement (turn- over) le rideau la ligne courbe le coussin, le car- reau couper 1 ornamenti il manichetto la cortina, il cor- tinaggio la linea curva SPANISH el creciente hacer crochet GERMAN der halbe Mond hiikeln la aguja de gancho die Hiikelnadel el crochet de Tflnez der tunische Hakelstich cruzar kreuzen el papel con lineas das rechnen Papier cruzadas el punto cruzado der Kreuzstich la corona la coronilla el ornamento el puno, la boca- manga la cortina la curva il cuscino, il guan- el cojin, el almo- ciale had6n tagliare cortar le point coupe 1 il punto tagliato la obra de bordado les points d'esprits le punta armeletta ? le cylindre, le rou- leau, la b o u 1 e tournante il cilindro el cilindro die Krone der Boden das Kronenwerk die Manchette, die Handkrause der Vorhang, die Gardine die Kriimme Linie, die Kriimmung das Kissen schneiden, abschneiden die durchbrochene Arbeit die Karos im For- menschlag, der getupfte Tiill der Zylinder D Dalmatic la dalmatique la tonicelle, la matica dal- la dalmatiea die Dalmatika Damask la toile damassee, le damassg, le damas il damasco el damasco de hilo der Damast Dampen, to, mois- humecter umettere mojar befeuchten ten, to : see Wet Danish (adj.) danois -e danese dinamarques, danfe danisch Darn, to broder en reprise, repriser, passe- filer rammendare, supra punto filo zurcir stopfen Darner (needle) l'aiguille a passer l'infila cappio la aguja de zurcir die Stopfnadel Date la date il giorno la data das Datum Dealer, trader le commercant il mercante el interventor, el comerciante der Handler Decorative decoratif -ve decorativo decorativo decorativ, zieren Decrease, to, in- diminuer, relrecier diminuire, scemare decrecer, disminuir vermindern, abneh take, to, dimin- men ish, to, take in, to, narrow, to : see Reduce, to EXPLANATIONS AND NOMENCLATURE 45 ENGLISH FRENCH ITALIAN SPANISH GERMAN Decree, mandate, le decret, l'gdict il mandate el mandate, el de- das Decret, das Ge- ordinance, edict creto, el edicto setz, die Verord- nung Denim, denham 9 ? la tela basta y re- sistente de al- godon eine Art g r o b e s Baumwollenzeug Design : see Sub- le dessin il disegno el dibujo, el trazo, die Zeichnung ject el diseiio Designer le dessinateur, la dessinatrice il disegnatore el dibujante, el di- senador der Zeichner Devil's Broth : see Starch, to Dexterity: see Skill : see Exe- cution Diagonal : see diagonal -e, oblique diagonale diagonal schrag Oblique : see Slanting Diagram : see le plan, !a figure il piano, la pianta el diagrama das Diagram, der Draft Abriss Diamond : see Lo- zenge Diamond shaped en earreau, en lo- sange a rombo, romboide de figura romboide rautenformig, rhombus Dicky-pot V ■> •> 9 Difficult difficile difficile diffcil, dificultoso schwer, schwierig Dilettante : see Amateur Dimension : see Size Dip, to, soak, to plonger, tremper bagnare, tuffare, immergere sumergir, baflar eintauchen, e i n - weichen, tunken Discoloration la decoloration il scoloramento el descoloramiento das Verschiessen, die Verfiirbung Disengaging, de- le degagement lo scioglimento dis- la desatadura, la die Ablosung, die taching, loosen- tacco separacion Trennung ing, releasing Disentangle, to, demeler strigare desenredar, desen- entwirren untangle, to : see lazar Undo, to Doilie, d'Oyley le sous-bol, le des- la tovagliuola, la servilleta pe- das Deckchen sous de vase, la mautilette quena petite nappe, le napperon, la ser- viette de dessert Dollar l'ecu '? dollare, l'ecu moneda de los Es- tados Unidos y el Canada, el es- cudo der Thaler Dot, tear - drop, le pois, la larme, le la gocciola, il punto la gotita der Tupfen, der polka dot : see point lagrima, il pisello Punkt Drop, to Double (adj.) : see double doppio doble, doblado verdoppelt, zwei- Turn, to fach Double faced : see a double face doppio faccia, due de doble cara, de mit zwei Seiten Reversible visi dos caras Dozen la douzaine la dozzina la docena das Dutzend Draft, plan : see le brouillon, l'es- il disegno, la copia el diseiio, el plan der Entwurf Diagram : see quisse, l'ebauche, Laying out le plan Drawing pin : see Thumb tack Drawn-work le point tire\ a fils tires il punto tirato, la sfilatura, il des- filato los calados die Auszieharbeit Drawn-worker, la tireuse de fil il filatoro la perfiladora, la die Fadenzieherin drawn-work caladora maker , Draw out, to, pull tirer tirare tirar ausziehen out, to 46 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS ENGLISH FRENCH ITALIAN SPANISH GERMAN Dress la robe la gonna el vestido das Kleid Dressed pillow le coussin prepare 1 , il cucino fatto per la almohadilla lista das Kloppelkissen appretfi, dispose^ incominciare para comenzar fertig zur Arbeit dressS Dressing, stiffen- l'appret, l'empois l'apprechio la cola der Leim ing, sizing Drop, to (a lacher, laisser tom- Iasciar caseare perder (un punto) fallen lassen, ab- stitch) : see Dot ber, laisser cou- ler sec, seche / gleiten Dry (adj.) secco seco trocken, durr Dutch (adj.) hollandais -e olandese holandfis hollandisch Duty, tax le droit, l'impot il dazio, la gabella el derecho, el im- puesto die Taxe, der Zoll Dyeing, coloring la teinture la tinta, la tintura la tintoreria das Farben Dyestuff : see Col- la teinture, le la tintura el tinte der Farbstoff ored : see Ani- teint, le coloris line l'aquila Eagle 1'aigle el aguila der Adler Easy (adj.) facile facile facil einfach, leicht Ecclesiastical, ec- ecclesiastique, ecclesiastico eclesiastico ecclesiastisch clesiastic, sacer- sacerdotale dotal (adj.) Ecru, unbleached ecru -e crudo -a crudo, que no ha ecru (adj.) : see sido lavado Blonde : see Cream Edging, border : see la dentelle, le bord, il pizzo, il orlo la orla, el ribete das Bortchen, die Selvage : see le passement Randspitze, die Bead Edge schmale Spitze Effigy l'effigie, l'image l'effigie, l'immagine la efigie das Bildniss Eighteenth (adj.) dix-huitieme diciottesimo, deci- mottavo decimo octavo achtzehnt Ell (45 inches, 1% l'aune, l'avant-bras, l'anna, la canna la ana die Elle yards) 1.85 metres (74 inches) Ellipse l'ellipse 1'ellissi el elipse die Ellipse Embroiderer, em- la brodeuse •) la bordadora, la •p bellisher, em- ricamadora broidery worker Embroidery ia broderie il ricamo, la rica- matura el bordado, la bor- dadura die Stickerei Emery, corundum l'emeri il smeriglio el esmeril der Schmergel End, extremity le bout, l'extremite' la fine estremita el cabo, el fin das Ende English (adj.) anglais -e inglese ingles englisch Enlarge, to : see agrandir aggrandire agrandar erweitern, vergros- Increase, to sern Enrich, to, adorn, enrichir, orner, em- fatte richo enriquecer, ador- ausschmiicken, be- to, embellish, to : bellir, parer nar, embellecer reichern see Light up, to Entertainer : see Reader Epoch : see Period Establish, to, gtablir, fonder, in- stabilire establecer, fundar etabliren, griinden found, to stituer Excelsior, s t u f - le papier a copeaux l'ecelsore la madera en he- die Holzwolle fing : see Bran : d'emballage, la bras y virutas see Sawdust : see tontisse ligneuse delgados para Cork empaquetar y rellenar col- chones Execution, work- la fagon, l'execu- la fettura, l'esecu- el trabajo die Ausfiihrung, manship : see tion, le travail zione, il lavoro, die Arbeit Skill la fattura Expensive, dear, cher, couteux dispendioso, cara- costoso, caro teuer, kostspielig costly (adj.) : mente, a gran see Valuable : see prezzo Rare EXPLANATIONS AND NOMENCLATURE 47 ENGLISH FRENCH Expert : see Cons- F expert noisseur : see Au- thority Eye (of a needle) le chas, le trou Eyelet l'oeillet ITALIAN la cruna il spiraglio SPANISH l'esperto, il sperto, el experto il sperimentato el ojo el ojete GERMAN der sach Verstiind- das Nadeliihr, das dhr das kleine Loch, das Scbniirloch Factory : see Work-room Fair : see Auction : see Celebration : see Festival Falling collar, fall- ing band, fall : see Collar False stitch, false pinhole, blind pin: see Omit: see Repeat Fan Fancy, fanciful, ornate (adj.) Fancy work Fan-shaped (adj.) Scallop Fascinator, wrap : see Man- tilla Fasten off, to, make fast, to, secure, to : see Tie together, to Felt, baize Festival, jubilee : see Fair Fichu : see Ker- chief Fifteenth (adj.) Filet, netting, caul lace Filigree Filler in of point Filling, plaiting band work Filling maker : sei Maker Fine (adj.) Fine drawing Finger Finger (4% in ches) la fabrique la foire le col rabattu. le rabato, le rabat la fabbrica la fiera, il mercato pubblieo il collare il punto false l'eventail il ventaglio faconne -e, orne -e, di fantasia, affaz- de fantaisie la tapisserie, broderie en eventail la head- la fanchon le feutre la fete, le jubile quinzierne le filet, le lacis, le point conte, la resille le filigrane la remplisseuse le mode, l'ajour, le jour fin -e la reprise perdue le doigt le doigt (18 milli- metres) zononato, ador- nato il ricamo a ventaglio la ciarpa arrestare, fermare il feltro la festa quindicesimo il lavoro di maglia, il punto a maglia quadra, il moda- no, il punto a maglia quadrata la filigrana la rimendatrice al gioi'no fino, delicato •> il dito il dito la f a b r i c a , la manufactura la feria el cuello caido el paso falso el abanico de c a p r i c h o, de gusto fantastico la obra de fantasia en forma de aba- nico el panuelo de ca- beza atar, asegurar das Fabrikgebiiude die M e s s e der Jahrmarkt der Umlegekragen der Fiicher geschmtickt, ver- ziert die weibliche Handarbeit facherformig das Kopftuch festmachen el fieltro der Filz la fiesta das Jubileum, der Festtag, das Ju- beljahr, das Ju- belfest decimoquinto fiinfzehnte la red cuadrada die Netz Arbeit, das Filet, der Gitterground, das Netzwerk, das Filett la filigrana die feine Drahtar- beit la insertadora de die Spitzenflicker- puntos inn, die Spitzen- stecherinn, d i e Spitzenausfiiller- inn el modo die Fiille," der Ein- trag, die Fiillung fino, delicado fein el punto perdido de ? zurcido el dedo der Finger la longitud del de- der Mass von 4% do, del medio Zoll 48 A LACE GUIDE FOE MAKERS AND COLLECTORS ENGLISH FRENCH ITALIAN SPANISH GERMAN Finger-shield, tai- le de ouvert, le il ditale aperto el apoyadedos, el der Schneider-Fin- lor's thimble doigtier dedal de sastre gerhut Finisher, refiner : l'affineuse la ricamatrice, 1' la perfeccionadora, die Vollenderin see Repairer : see amnatrice la afinadora Ironer Finishing : see But- l'achevement la ripassatura la ultima mano, el ? tonholing : see perfeccionamien- Mending of faults to , Firmly, steadily fermement fermamente firmemente fest Fish-shaped (adj.) pisciform ■> pisciforme fischformig Flange le rebord, la saillie la sponda, il risal- to, l'orlo el realce die Flansche, der Rand Flat (adj.) : see plat -e piano, piatto, spian- llano, piano flach, ohne Relief Smooth to Flax, linum usita- le lin, l'afioume lino, sorta di lino el lino der Flachs tissimum, fine dell'Egitto Levantine flax Flax comb : see Heckler Flaxen : see Blonde ^ Flemish (adj.) flamand -e fiammingo flamenco flamish Floss-silk, sleine, la soie plate, la flo- la seta crudo, la la seda floja der Floss sleided silk che zattera Flounce, furbelow, le volant, le godet, il volante, la falba- la falbala die Falbel, das Ge- robing : see Frill la tournante la, la balza brame Flower la fleur il fiore la flor die Blume Flute, to, gauffer, tuyauter, gaufrer, piegare, saldare a rizar, plegar goffrieren to, crimp, to froncer, goudron- ner, goderonner, gaudronner, cre- per connoneinli Fluting, goffering, le tuyautage, le l'impressione sulle el rizado das Goffrieren, die quilling: see gaufrage, d e s stoffe Riische Quille Turgaux Fold, set: see Plait le pli, la pince la piega la doblez, el pliegue, la plegadura die Falte Foliated (adj.) : en feuilles, feuille' a fogliami batido en hojas mit Laubwerk see Scroll -e, a feuillages Footing, bead edge, l'engrelure, le pied, il merletto ordina- el ribete der Kantensaum heading, bead- le bord, la bisette rio ing : see Selvage ■"i? Forked (adj.) fourchu -e, en four- che la forme biforcato, forcuto horcado gabelformig Form, shape, con- la forma la forma, la figura, die Form tour el contorno Foundation la fondation il fondamento el fundamento, la fundaciOn der Grund Fourteenth (adj.) quatorzieme quattordicesimo -a decimocuarto vierzehnte Frame (embroid- le mgtier ft broder il telaio da ricamo el bastidor der Stickrahmen, ery) : see Hoop der Nahrahmen, das Tamburin Fray, to: see Ra- vel, to French (adj.) frangais -e francese francesa franzosisch Fresh, clean frais, fraiche, pro- fresco fresco, nuevo frisch, rein (adj.) : see New pre Fretwork : see Grille Frill, cascade, ja- le jabot la gola, la digiuna la chorrera der gefaltete Bu- bot : see Floun- senstreif ce : see Cravat Fringe la frange, 1'efnle' la frangia el fleco die Franse Fuller's earth, la terre ft foulon, le la terra da digras- la tierra de batan die Walkererde, die Whiting bianco d'Espagne sare o da purgare Tiinche EXPLANATIONS AND NOMENCLATURE 49 ENGLISH Galloon, Orris, Ar- ras Gather, to, pucker, to Gauge : see Mesh- stick Gently Geometric (adj.) German (adj.) Gimp, rib, trolly, cordon : see But- tonholing : see Outlining thread : see Raised Gingles, jingles, beads Glazed, shiny, glos- sy, lustrous (adj.): see Smooth Glove Gold Gothic (adj.) Grille, fretwork,' lattice Groove Ground, grounding, field, background : see Net Grounder, maker of grounds, ground- worker Guimpe (child's) : see Wimple Guipure Gum Arabic Gusset, mitre Hair, locks, tress- es : see Horse- hair Hairpin ( for cro- cheting) Half stitch, half throw, half pass Hand Handkerchief Handle, holder Handmade (adj.) Handsome : see Rich : see Beauti- ful: see Pretty FRENCH TArras, le galon froncer, coulisser la jauge, la mesure doucement geomfitrique allemand -e le cordonnet, la nervure, le fil de crin, le guimp, la brode, le cor- don la cliquette, la per- le de verre glace -e, lustre -e, luisant -e, vitre -e le gant l'or gothique la grille, la grecque, la treillis la ramure, 1'entaille le fond, le champ, 1' entoilage, le treil- le, le fondement la foneuse, la ga- zeuse, la gaziere, la reseleuse, la fondeuse la guimpe la guipure la gomme arabique le gousset, la mitre les cheveux, les tresses la fourche le demi point, la passg de filet, la grillee la main le mouchoir le manche, la poig- nee, l'anse fait a la main ITALIAN G il gallone, il fregio increspare, piegare, raggunzare la misura staza leggermente, dolce- mente geometrico tedesco il cordoncino il peso che si attac- ca alle fuselli lustrato, lucente SPANISH el gal6n, el ribeci- llo fruncir la vara dulcemente geomStrico germanico, aleman, tudesco el cordOn el peso que se une a los palillos lustroso, glaseado GERMAN die Tresse falten, in Falten legen das Mass sanft geometrisch deutsch die Gimpe, der TJm- rissfaden, das) Bandchen die Glasperlen glanzend, mernd schim- der Handschuh das Gold gothisch das Gitterwerk die Rinne der Grund, der Spitzengrund colui o colei che el que hace los fon- ,jj e Spitzengrund- fabbrica veli dos il guanto el guante l'oro el oro gotica g6tico la rete, la reticella el calado 1'antro profondo, la la ranura scanatura il fondo el fondo la guimpa il ghipur, il merlet- to in rilievo la gomma arabica quadratelli la treccia di capel- li, il capello, la ciocca di capelli la forca, il bidente il mezzo punto il mano il fazzoletto, il moc- cichino l'impugnatura, il manico fatto a mano el camisolfn de mu- jer, el canesu la puntilla de hilo fuerte en que los dibujos enlaza- dos forman el ti- su sin fondo la goma arabica, el agua de goma el escudete, el ingle- te los cabellos, la trenza la horquilla la semi puntada la mano el panuelo el mango, el puno hecho a mano macherin das Latzchen die Guipure das Gummi Arabi- cum der Zwickel, die In- ful, die Mitra die Haar-Locke die Haarnadel der Halbschlag, der Gympenschlag, der Netzschlag die Hand das Taschentuch der Griff mit der Hand ge- macht 50 A LACE GUIDE FOB MAKERS AND COLLECTORS ENGLISH FRENCH ITALIAN SPANISH GERMAN Hangers: see Pas- sive pairs Hang up, to pendre, suspendre sospendere colgar aufhangen Hank la botte, la poig- nge, la pantine la matassa la madeja der Strang Head la tete la testa, il capo la cabeza der Kopf, die Spitze Head-dress, tower, la fontange, la l'acconciatura di el tocado der Aufsatz, die head, Fladdal, commode capo s Bandschleife auf fallals dem Kopfe Heading: see Foot- ing Head worker, su- la maitresse-ou- la capo-maestra, il la primera oficiala die Vorsteherin, die pervisor vriere, le chef capo bottega de un taller de erste Arbeiterin d'atelier mujeres, la cargada en- Heart le coeur il cuore el corazon das Herz Heaviness, dull- la matitS il cattivo la pesadez, la es- die Schwerfalligkeit ness : see Showy tolidez Heckler, flax comb, le seran, la seran- il pettine da lino el rastrillo die Hechel hatchel goie, l'aflinoir Hem l'ourlet l'orlo el ribete der Saum Hemp le chanvre la canapa, il ca- nape el cafiamo der Hanf Heraldic (adj.) heraldique araldico heraldico heraldisch Hexagonal (adj.) hexagonal -e, hexa- gone esagonale, esagono hexagono sechseckig Holder : see Handle Hole le trou il forame, il buco, el agujero, el agu- das Loch il pertugio, la jerito bucca Honeycomb le gateau de miel, la rayon de miel il faxo, il Bale el panal die Wachsscheibe, die Honigwabe Hood : see Bonnet le capuchon, la capeline la bauta, il cap- puccio la toca die Haube Hook le crochet, le gui- poir, le croc, la croche l'uncine, l'uncinetto el gancho der Haken, das Hakchen, das Hakelhaken Hoop, tambour : le cercle, le tam- il tamburo, l'ordi- el bastidor, el aro der Reif, das Tam- see Frame bour grto da ricamare burin Horizontal (adj.) horizontal -e orizzontale horizontal horizontal Horn (adj.) de corne di corno de cuerno aus Horn, hornen Horsehair : see le crin il crine di cavallo la crin de caballo, das Rosshaar Hair la crin Hot (adj.) : see chaud -e caldo caliente heiss Warm Housewife, kit le necessaire la cassetta da viag- el costurerito das Nahkastchen Hunting de chasse gio di caccia de caza Jagd (spitzen) Imbricated : see Overlapping Imitation l'imitation l'imitazione la imitacidn die Nachahmung Inch le pouce il pollice la pulgada der Zoll Increase, to, add, augmenter aumentar, ampliare acrecentar, alargar, vermehren, vergros- to ; see Enlarge, to Index finger aumentar sern l'index l'indice el dedo indice der Zeigefinger India ink l'encre de Chine l'inchiostro di la t i n t a de la die Tusche China China, la tinta China Indian (adj.) indien -ne indiano indio indisch, indianisch Initial l'initiale l'iniziale la inicial der Anfangsbuch j stabe Ink l'encre l'inchiostro la tinta die Tinte Insertion : see l'entredeux, la la trina, l'inser- el entredoa der Einsatz Beading bande zione, l'entemel- le, il passamano EXPLANATIONS AND NOMENCLATURE 51 ENGLISH FRENCH ITALIAN SEANISH GERMAN Instrument : see Tool Insular (adj.) insulaire isolano insular, isleno insularisch Interlace, to, en- entrelacer, accoler collegare, intrec- entrelazar, entre- durchflec bten, twine, to ciare, intralci- are, frammettere mezclar durchweben Interline, to entredoubler 1 entretelar zwischenfiitten Intersect, to entrecouper intersecare, attra- versare entrecortar durchschneiden, durchkreuzen Introduce, to in trod aire introdurre establecer, presen- ter vorstellen, bekannt machen, einfuh- ren Inventory 1'inventaire l'inventar el inventario die Inventur, das Inventarium, das Bestandsver- zeichniss Irish (adj.) irlandais -e irlandese irlandes irisch, irlandisch Iron, to repasser stirare, soppressare planchar pliitten, biigeln Ironer : see Fin ish- l'amqueuse la stiratrice la planchadora die Platterin, die er Bugelerin Isabel (adj.) : see isabelle, de couleur isabella, sauro de color isabelino, isabellenfarbig, isa- Cream colored : isabelle amarillo parduz- bellfarbig, mis- see Ecru co farbig Italian (adj.) italien -ne italiano italiano italienisch Ivory l'ivoire l'avorio el marfil das Elfenbein Jabot : see Cravat le jabot la gola la gola 7 Japanese (adj.) japonais -e giapponese japongs japanisch, japane- i|! ill : PI sisch Join, to : see raccorder accordare enganehar zusammenstucken Couple, to Joiner of lace (per- la raccrocheuse l'accordatrice el enganchador der Aufhanger, der son) Anhanger, der Verbinder Joining-stitch : see Sewing Jubilee : see Cele- bration : see Fes- i . ' ■ | tival Kerchief, fichu : see Fascinator King Knee - scarfs : see Boot-tops Knife Knit, to Knitter Knitting-needle Knitting pin, nee- dle end, knitting- sheath, support, knitting shield Knot : see Noose : see Tie, to Knotted work : see Macrame' le fichu, la fanchon, la marmotte, le couvre-chef le roi le couteau tricoter la le tricoteur, tricoteuse Faiguille a tricoter, la broche l'afliquet, le porte- aiguille le noeud K il fisciu, il fazzo- el panuelo letto di capo da donna il re el rey il cotello lavorare all'ago, lavorare a mag- lia il calzettago il ferro da calza, il ferro da calzetta il cannello pei fer- ri da calza il nodo, il groppo, il gruppo el cuchillo, el cor- taplumas hacer media, tejer el calcetero, el te- jedor la aguja de hacer medias 6 de malla el palillo sujeto a la cintura para apoyar la aguja de hacer calceta el nudo das Brusttuch der Konig das Messer stricken der Strieker, die Strickerin die Stricknadel, der Strickstock die Strickscheide, die Stricknadel- halter, das Strick- nadelrohr, das Nadelholz der Knoten 52 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS ENGLISH Lace, pearlin, pearling FRENCH ITALIAN SPANISH GERMAN Lace-bark tree, La- getta Lintearia (vegetable lace) Lace-maker, lace- worker Lace turn : see Winding machine Lace up, to Lacing, string, cord : see Cap- string Lamb Lambrequin, man- tle-cloth : see Tidy Lapel, revers Lappet, tab, pinner Layette Laying out : see Outlining : see Setting : see Lay out, to : see Draft Lay out, to; block out, to ; stake out, to ; mark out, to ; appor- tion, to : see Laying out Leaf, paddle, seed, grain, wheat ear, lozenge : see Tuft Leaf-stitch, mat- ting-stitch : see Tuft Learn, to Left (adj.) Length Lesson Letter Light, illumination Light, fluffy (adj.) Light up, to ; lighten, to ; in- crease the high lights, to ; set off, to ; enhance, to : see Enrich, to la dentelle, le pas- il merletto, la trina las puntillas, el en- die Spitze sement le bois dentelle, le laget la dentelliere lacer l'entrelac, la ficelle, le cordon l'agneau le dessus de che- minee, le man- teau de cheminSe le revers la barbe la layette le trace jalonner le pgtale apprendre gauch -e la longueur la lecon (narrow) (cuts, caje pinkings, pinch- ings) il pizzo (tips, peaks), il passamano, il fimboice, gli mer- li (little turrets, battlements), il tarnete la lavoranta in la encajera merletti allacciare il groppo il agnello il fregi d'intaglio lacear el cordon de enlace el cordero, el bor- rego el emantelete la mostra d'un abite la solapa la falda, la bandel- la le fasce, i pannol- lini la traccia, la mo- stra abbozzare, indicare, piantar delle bif- fe l'armelletta, il fo- glio las caidas de toca los panales la traza marcas los contor- nos la hoja, el pgtalo la punta armeletta el empalletado appren- aprender imparare, dere sinistro, mancino la lunghezza il lezione la lettre la lettera la lumiere la luce, la lume leger -ere leggero eclairer, decharger balenare izquierda siniestra la longitud la lecci6n la carta la luz ligero alumbrar, aligerar der Spitzenklop- pler, die Spitzen- macherin schniiren die Schnur das Lamm die Kaminbeklei- dung, das Zacken oder Bogen Be- hange, die Bek- leidung als Zim- merschmuck. der Aufschlag der Zipfel, der Haubenfliigel die Ausstattung fur ein kleines Kind das zur Schau le- gen, das Heraus- legen verteilen, die Richt- punkte aufstel- len, auszeichnen, abstecken das Blatt der Formenschlag lernen linke die lange die Aufgabe, Lehrstunde der Buchstabe das Licht leicht erleichtern, laden die EXPLANATIONS AND NOMENCLATURE 53 ENGLISH Line : see Row Linen apparel, lin- gerie FRENCH la ligne la lingerie Linen chest : see Chest Linen closet Linen cloth : see Napery Linen house, white goods house Linen press : see la presse Press Linen-stitch : see Cloth-stitch Linen thread Linen trade Lint Little finger Livery Lobster claw : s Puff iron Long (adj.) Long, column treble stitch Loom Loop : see Pearl Loop-maker, ring- let-maker Loop row, first row Loose, slack (adj.) Lozenge, diamond l'armoire a. linge la toile de lin, le linon la maison de blanc le fil de lin la toilerie la charpie le petit doigt, 1'au- riculaire la livree long -ue la bride le mgtier a tisser la bride, la boucle, la ganse, la bou- clette la boucleuse lache le losange ITALIAN la linea la biancheria del corpo, i panni lini la guardaroba la tela di lino la casa di bian- cheria il strettoio il refe il commercio di biancheria il filaticcio il dito mignolo, il dito auriculare la livrea lungo il punto lungho il telaio da tessere la maglia la cordoncinatrice ? lento, allentato il rombo SPANISH la linea la ropa blanca el armario la tela de lino, el lienzo la lenceria la prensa el hilo de lino el comercio de lien- zos el lino el dedo menique la librea largo el punto largo el telar el lazo, el rizo el que hace el rizo la primera linea de aros suelto, destado el rombo GERMAN die Linie die weisse Wasche der Leinenschrank die Leinwand, das Leinen die Weisswaren- hiindel die Leinenpresse der Leinenfaden der Leinwandhan- del die Charpie der kleine Finger die Livree lang das Stabchen der Webstuhl die Schlinge, die Oesen, die Osen der Oesenmacher das Aufschlag los die Rhomboide, der Rhombus M Machine net le tulle mecanique, il tulle, il tulle mec-' el mecanico das Maschinen le tulle fait a la canico Netz machine Macramg, knotted le macrame', 1'en- il punto a groppo el encaje Moresco die Kniipfarbeit work, filet de trelacs, le filet Carnasiere de Carnasiere Maker of modes or la modeuse la giornotrice el hacedor de pun- die Fiillungmach- jours, filling tos de fantasia erin maker Making, working I'execution, la con- il costruzione la hechura, el tra- die Vollziehung, die fection bajo, la ejecueiSn Ausfiihrung Making of : see Pricking of Maltese (adj.) maltais -e, de Mal- te la faille, la mantil- malteze maltes malthesisch Mantilla : see Fas- la mantilla la mantilla die Mantille cinator le Mantle le manteau, la man- te il sopreveste, il so- prebito, il man- tello el manto, la capa der Mantel Manufacturer le fabricant, le ma- nufacturier il fabbricante, il fabbricatore, il manifatturiere el fabricante der Fabrikant Mark la marque la marca la marca die Marke, das Mai, das Merkmal Mark out, to: see Lay out, to 54 A LACE GUIDE FOB MAKERS AND COLLECTORS ENGLISH FRENCH ITALIAN SPANISH GERMAN Marking out, divid- la jalonnement, la il divisione el sefialado das Abstecken, das ing, laying out, division Markieren indicating, stak- ing, staking out Mask le masque, le loup la maschera, il lupo la mascara die Maske Mate, companion- le pendant il riscontro el companero das Gegenstiick piece Materials, furnish- les materiaux, les le forniture, li ma- los avios, los mate- die Materialien, das ings fournitures, 1' tillage ou- teriali riales Arbeitsmaterial Matting-stitch : see Leaf-stitch Measure : see Tape la mesure la mesura la medida das Linead zum measure : see gleichmassigen Mesh stick : see Einstecken der Ruler Stecknadel Medallion, inset : l'incrustation, l'i ap- l'incrostatura, l'in- el embutido, el me- das Spitzen-Medal- see Square plique crostamento, gli pezzi da incasta- re, gli pezzi da intarsiare dallon lion, der Spitzen- Einsatz Mediaeval, medie- du moyen age il medio evo de la edad media mittelalterlich val (adj.) Mend, to raccomoder raccomodare remendar, reparar ausbessern, flicken Mending of faults : le regalage •> el corregido de fal- die Ausbesserung see Repairing : tas mangelhafter see Finishing Spitzen Mercerised (adj.) mercerise -e lucido lustroso mercerisiert, merce- riert Mesh la maille la maglia, la maglia di rete la malla die Masche Mesh-stick, mold : le moule, l'ais a fai- il asse, la tavola di el molde der Strickstab, der see Gauge : see re des filets, la legno Strickstock Measure : see planche a fa ire Ruler les filets Metallic (adj.) metallique metallico metalico metallisch Mexican (adj.) mexicain -e messicano mejicano mexikanisch Middle : see Centre Middle finger le doigt majeur, mfidius le il medio, il dito me- dio el dedo del medio der Mittelfinger Mirror : see Pene- lope Mitre : see Gusset Model le modele il modello, il esem- plo el modelo das Muster Modern (adj.) : see moderne moderno moderno modern New Modesty piece : see la garniture de cor- la garnitura di cor- el encaje de Costi- der Streifen an ei- Tucker sage sagio lla, una blonda que se pone a los vestidos en la parte superior del pecho ner Schniir Modify, to modifier modificare modificar abiindern Mohair, alpaca le mohair, l'alpaga l'alpaca la alpaca das Haartucb, der Mohr Moisten, to : see Dampen, to Monogram le monogramme il monogramo el monograma der Namenzug Moon la lune la luna la luna der Mond Mosaic, tesselated en mosaique mosaico mosaico mosaikartig (adj.) Mother-of-pearl la nacre la madre perla el nacar, la madre perla die Perlmutter Mount, to : see monter, entoiler montare un lavoro montar aufziehen Transfer, to Mummy wrappings les draps de momie 7 la ropa de momia das Mumiengewand Museum : see Col- le musee il museo el museo das Museum lection Mythological (adj.) mythologique mitpjogjpo mitol6gico mythologisch EXPLANATIONS AND NOMENCLATURE 55 ENGLISH FRENCH ITALIAN il chiodo, il chiovo, SPANISH GERMAN Nail : see Took : le clou el clavo der Nagel see Thumb tack il aguto, il chia- vello Nail (2% inches) ? il ottavo (misura) la medida de dos pulgadas y cuar- to, 6 la diecisei- sava parte de una vara das Mass von 2% Zoll Name la denomination, le il nome el nombre der Namen N apery, linen goods : nom la napperie, la nap- la biancheria da ta- la manteleria das Tafelzeug, das see Linen cloth pe vola Leinzeug Napkin la serviette la salvietta, la to- vagliuola la servilleta die Serviette, das Tellertuch Narrow (adj.) Stroit -e strctto estrecho, angosto enge, schmal Naturalistic (adj.) naturaliste naturalista naturalista naturalistisch Needle l'aiguille el ago, il aco la aguja die Nadel Needlecase, needle l'gtui a aiguilles, le il agoraio, il agaio- el alfiletero die Nadelbiichse, book : see Case porte - aiguille, 1' aiguillier ulo, il buzzo das Nadelbuch Needle ends, pro- ? •> el porta-agujas die Strickstiefel tectors Needleful, a une aiguillee el agugliato la hebra eine Nadel-Voll Needlepoint lace la dentelle a l'ai- guille •> il trino ad ago la punta die Nadelspitze Needle threader, ? el ensartador de die Nadel Einfas- threader (instru- agujas serin ment) Needle-work l'ouvrage a l'aiguil- il lavoro ad ago la labor de aguja, die Handarbeit, die le, la tapisserie, la costura Nadelarbeit l'ouvrage de da- mes Net: see Ground le rfeeau, ? dros- chel, le rgzel, le rezeuil. le raz- zeuil, le tulle il rete, il redexelo el rete das Netz, der Netz- grund Netting-needle la navette il spillo di fare rete la aguja de tejer redes die Netz-Nadel Network, darned le lacis, le filet bro- il lavoro di maglia, la obra de malla das Netzwerk netting, spider dS, le point contS il punto a ma- work : see Spid- er New (adj.) : see gliata neuf, neuve, nou- nuovo nuevo, nuevecito neu Fresh : see Mo- veau, nouvelle dern Nightcap le toquet il berrettino el gorro de dormir die Nachtmutze Nineteenth (adj.) dix-neuvieme diciannovesimo, de- cimonono d^cimonono neunzehnte Noose, slip-knot : le noeud coulant il nodo scorsoio el lazo die Fadenschlinge see Knot Norwegian (adj.) norvegien -ne, de Norvege norvegio o noruego norwegisch Oblique (adj.) : see oblique obliquo oblicuo schrag, schief Diagonal Oblong (adj.) de forme oblongue, de figure oblon- gue oblungo, bislungo oblongo langlich, oblong Ochre, ocher l'ocre, l'ochre il octa, l'ocria el ocre der Ocher, der Oker Oil l'huile l'olio el oleo, el aceite das Oel Oil cloth, wax la toile ciree la tela incerata el encerado, la tela das Wachstuch, die cloth encerada Wachsleinwand Olive (adj.) d'olivier d'oliva de oliva oliven 56 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS ENGLISH Omit, to, skip, to : see False stitch Open (adj.) Openwork Organdie, organdi- muslin Ornament Orphrey, clavi Outer pairs Outline, to : see Outlining : see Wheel Outlining : see Out- lining thread : see Buttonhol- ing: see Laying out: see Setting: see Gimp : see Outline, to Outlining thread, outline: see Gimp : see But- tonholing Over, above, upon Overcast, to, whip, to, over-sew, to Overlapping, im- bricated (adj.) Overs Padding Pair Pall, cloak Pall, covering : see Chalice cover- ing Panel Parallel (adj.) Parasol, sunshade Parchment, vellum : see Pattern Passementerie Passive pairs, pas- sives, hangers Paten-cover : see Chalice cover Patronage Pattern, diagram : see Parchment FRENCH passer, omettre, sauter ouvert -e l'ouvrage a jour, 1'- ouvrage a claire- voie l'organdi, l'organ- dis l'ornement Forphroi les paires extfirieu- res cerner, scilloner, border, echelon- ner, batir 1'entourage le fil de trace, le fil de contour, le bati au-dessus, sur surjeter, faire un surjet a imbrique' -e, imbri- c6 -e, enchevau- ch6 -e le jetfi le bourre, l'ouate la paire le pallium le poele, le drap mortuaire le panneau parallele le parasol la cartisane, le par- chemin le passement, la passementerie les paires pendan- tes, les paires de chaine le patronage le patron, le tracg ITALIAN omettre, trascurare aperto il lavoro a giorno l'organdi il ornamento, il adornamento, il fregio ■> bastimentare SPANISH pasar por alto, omi- tir abierto calado el organdi el ornamento la clava los pares exteriores l'orditura il filo di traccia perfilar el contorno, el per- fil el hilo de perfil sopra, di sopra, ol- sobre tre, sulla cucire a sopraggit- hilvanar to imbricato imbricado — P- la borra il paio il pallio il coltre, il panno da morti el assicello parallelo, equidis- tante il parasole la pergamena, la cartapecora il passamano il patronezgo la mostra, il cam- pione el punto por enci- ma la guata, la borra el par el palio de arzobis- po el pafio de atafld, el pafio mortuo- rio el cuarter6n paralelo el quitasol, el para- sol el pergamino, la vi- tela la pasamaneria el par pasivo el patrocinio, el pa- tronato el modelo GERMAN iiberspringen offen die Durchbroch-Ar- beit der Organdi die Verzierung die Keule die Drehpaare in Umriss zeichnen der Umriss der Umrissfaden uber, auf iiberniihen, u m ■ schlingen dachziegelformig das Umschlagen das Unterlegen das Paar der Bischofsman- tel, der Talar, das Pallium das Pallium, das Leichentuch das langlische Stuck parallel, gleichlauf- end der Sonnenschirm das feine Kalbsle- der, das Perga- ment, das Velin die Passementerie die Risspaare das Patronat, die Begiinstigung das Muster, das Spitzenmuster, der Spitzenmodel EXPLANATIONS AND NOMENCLATURE 57 ENGLISH Pattern maker Pearl: see Loop Pearl-maker Pearl-tie, bar, strand, bridge, coxcomb, leg, pearl, half-wheel, tie, bride : see Bar Pearl-tier Peasant Peddler, hawker Peg, plug Pen Pencil Penelope mirror Period, epoch : see Century Petticoat Pewter Photograph Pick up (a stitch), to Pillow (lace) : see Cushion (sofa) Pillow lace : see Bobbin lace Pillow sham Pillow slip, pillow case, pillow-bier, pillow-beer, pil- lowebere Pin Pin, to : see Stick in, to Pincushion Pinhole Pink, to FRENCH la patronneuse, le patronneur le picot, la boucle la picoteuse la bride la brideuse la paysanne, le paysan le colporteur, le ca- melote la cherille, l'epin- gle de bois la plume la crayon le mirroir Pgnelope l'epoque le jupon Tetain la photographie le coussin, le car- reau, le mfitier la manche de para- de ?, le cache oreiller la taie d'oreiller 1' epingle mettre une epingle, piquer une 6pin- gle, poser une epingle la pelote a fipingles le trou d'gpingle, la porte faire des oeillets, trouer, percer un etoffe, decouper suivant un des- sin, chequSter ITALIAN la zoccolaja la smerlatura, il dentello, l'orlatu- ra di ricamo la smerlatrice la bride la bridetrice ?, la lega trice il paesano, il conta- dino il merciaiuolo la caviglia, la ca- vicchia, il piulo, il brocco la penna il pennello lo specchio di Pene- lope l'epoca la gonnella, la gon- nellina il peltro, il stagno la fotografia relever, reprendre rialzare il tombolo, il cus- cino, il guanciali- no la fodera, la fode- retta la spilla pungere il guanciallino da spilli. il torsello la bocca da spilli foracehiare, bucac- chiare una stoffa a disegno SPANISH el hacedor de mode- los la puntilla, el pi- quillo la picadora la ligadura, los hi- los que conectan las varias partes solidas del enca- je, hecho de dos o mas cabos que son o bien como cordones o cu- biertos con pun- tos de remate o bordes la aseguradora la aldeana, el aldea- no, el patan, el labriego, el cam- pesino el buhonero, el ba- ratillero la estaquilla, la cla- vija la pluma el lapiz el espejo de PenS- lope la epoca, el periodo la falda bajera o de barros el peltre la fotografia recoger ( un pun- to) la almohadilla para hacer encajes la cubierta de ador- no para almoha- da la funda de almoha- da el alfiler prender con alfile- res, asegurar el acerico el agujero ojetear, picar GERMAN die Musterzeichne- rin das Picot die Oesermacherin das Bindeband, das Schlosschen die Festigmacherin von Alenconner Spitze der Bauer, der Landmann der Hausirer der Pflock die Schreibfeder der Pinsel der Penelope Spie- gel der Zeitraum, die Periode der TJnterrock das vermischte Zinn die Photographie, das Lichtbild wieder aufnehmen das Kissen, das Koppelkissen, der Kloppelsack die Kissendecke der Kisseniiberzug die Stecknadel stecken das NadelMssen der Stecknadel Punkt auszacken, a u s - schneiden 58 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS ENGLISH FRENCH la tresse, la natte tresser, natter Pinner : see Lap- pet Plain : see Simple Plait, braid, tresse : see Fold Plait, to, braid, to Plaiting : see Fill- ing Platform of pillow la planche, la plate forme Plume, tuft, pan- le panache ache Ply (single), le pli strand Point, Vandyke : la Crete see Scallop ITALIAN la treccia intrecciare l'assa, la piatta- forma il pennacchio la piega la cresta, il dente Poking stick (iron), setting- stick, strut (wood or bone) : see Puff iron Polish, to Polychrome (adj.) Position Pound sterling Press : see Puff iron : see Linen 2>ress Pretty (adj.) : see Beautiful Price Pricker, marker ( instrument) : see Stiletto Pricker, marker (person) Pricking, parch- ment, down, each Pricking or mak- ing of Professional (adj.) see Expert : see Authority Prong Pucker : see Crease : see Gather, to Puff iron, lace awl, polishing iron, agate, raiser, lob- ster claw, bmr- nisher : see Pok- ing stick : see Press Pull, to Pull over, to : see Slip off, to Pupil Puppet, doll, man- ikin la broche, le baton a plisser fraises ou manchettes, composteur, potelet polir les les le le polychrome la position, la pose la livre (25 francs) le lissoir pulire, lustrare, lisciare policroma la posa, la posi- tura, il posizione la lira sterlina el lisciatoio joli -e leggiadre, gentile, vezzoso le prix il prezzo la pointe, l'aiguille il ago da forare a piqueter la pointeuse, la la chi cuce, che chi piqueuse sia di strapunto le pique\ le carton- il pizzicore, li piz- guide, le passe- zilli, il cartone ment le piquage, la pi- qure, le picage, le piquetage professionel -le, professionale la dent de fourchon Foeuf, le fer a can- nonier, le fer a coque, l'alfeoir, la pince, l'aficot il frastaglo professionale il rebbio il puffiture, le branche dei gam- beri tirer, serrer tirare rabattre, rabattre abbassare, scemare les mailles l'eleve il scolare la marionnette, le il manichino Courrier de la Mode, la poupee SPANISH la trenza, el cor- doncillo trenzar la plataforma el penacho la doblez el cuello de encaje Van Dyke el instrumento de hueso o madera que se usa ajus- tando los pliegues de una lechuguil- la pulir (agujas) policromo la positura, la pos tura, la posiclon la libra esterlina el satinador, el lus- trador bonito, lindo el precio el punzon el que pica, el mar- cador la picadura la picadura professional la punta el esponjador tirar cruzar el discfpulo el maniqul GERMAN der Flechtenschlag, die Flechte flechten das Kloppelbrett der Federbusch, der Helmfederbusch einfach die ausgezackte Spitzen, das Zackchen, die Spitze das Stabchen poliren, glatten bunt die Lage, die Stel- lung das Pfund Sterling ? Weissholzer, die Glattmaschine hiibsch der Preis die Pickiernadel die Punktierin, die Musterdurchpau- serin, der Locher- stecher der Kloppelbrief, das Muster, "die Aufwinde" das Durchstechen, des Musters auf Pergament berufsmassig die Zinke der Puffer, das Bii- gel, ? Kobben, der Glattstahl, der Glatter, die Hummerschere ziehen verschranken der Schuler, die Sehulerin die Puppe, die Marionette EXPLANATIONS AND NOMENCLATURE 59 ENGLISH Purl, to ; seam, to, reverse, to FRENCH tricoter a l'envers ITALIAN far la calza a mag- lia a volta SPANISH perfilar GERMAN links stricken Quality Quatrefoil Queen Quick (adj.) Quille : see Fluting Quilling : see Flut- ing Quilter : see Stitch- er Quilting : see Wadding Quincunx Quiver, sheath Raised, embossed (adj.) : see Gimp Raiser : see Puff iron Rare (adj.) Expensive : Valuable Ravel, to ; to ; unravel, to ; reave, to ; reeve. to ; unweave, to Ravellings see see Razor-cloth : see Combing cloth Reader, lay-sister, entertainer, non- worker Realistic (adj.) Reduce, to ; lessen, to ; diminish, to : see Decrease, to Reel, to ; wind, to Refiner : see Fin- isher Removing, loosen- ing, detaching : see Rip, to Renascence, re- birth Repairer of breaks and faults : see Finisher Repairing, repara- tion : see Strengthening : see Mending Repeat, to ; see False stitch Reticular, retiform (adj.) Reversible (adj.) : see Double faced la quality les quatre-feuilles la reine leste, vite la campane, la houppe, la touffe, la ruche la pique, le mate- lass6 le quinconce le carquois en relief, bombfi -e fray, effiler, effiloquer le parfilage, la par- filure, l'emlure le linge a barbe la b£ate realiste reduire devider l'enlevage la renaissance la regaleuse le ravaudage, le remaillage repeter retiforme a deux endroits Q la qualita le quatro foglio la regina lesto, snello, spedi- to la frangia, il mer- letto piegato en forma di arnia la stoffa cosi detta, l'imbottir, il trapunto la quinconce la faretra R in relievo, rose, rilevato sfilare, sfilacciare gli filacce il ceccio da barba il leggitore, il man- tenitore realista ridurre addipanare il levare il risorgimento, il rimascimento la regalatrice il racconciamento ripetere, ricomm- ciare rete rivocabile la calidad el cuadrifolio la reina veloz, acelerado, ligero el pliegue en forma cilindrica die Qualitat das Vier-blatt die Konigin schnell die Troddel, Quaste die la cajera, el picado das Steppen el quincunce el carcaj en relieve das Quincunx der Kocher erhaben selten deshilar, desenlazer auftrennen, aufzieh- en la hilacha Ausgezuptes, ausge- zogene Faden el babadero, el ba- das Bart-Tuch bador la lectora ? realista reducir devanar el soltar realistisch vermindern haspeln, aufwinden das Wegnehmen el renacinniento die Renaissance el reparador, el der Ausbesserer apisonador la reparaci6n die Ausbesserung das Ausbessern repetir reticular wiederholen netzformig que admite posiciSn umkehrbar 6 direccion opue- sta 60 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS ENGLISH FRENCH ITALIAN SPANISH GERMAN Bib : see Raised : see Gimp Ribbon : see Stir- le ruban il nastro la cinta de seda das Band rup Rice le riz il riso el arroz der Reis Rich, handsome riche ricca rico reich (adj.) : see Beau- tiful: see Pretty / Right hand side droit -e destro derecha rechts Right side, front Fendroit il ritto el lado derecho die Rechterseite Ring l'anneau, le rond, le cercle il anello el circulo, la cera, el anillo der Ring, der Kreis Ring finger le doigt annulaire il dito anulare el dedo anular der Ring Finger Rinse, to rincer sciacquare enjuagar auswaschen, aus- spulen Rip, to dficoudre scucire rasgar, hender auftrennen Rococo (adj.) Rocaille, Barocco, Roccoco, rococo rococo churriguersco rococo Rod : see Bar Rolling, whipping le point roule il arrotolamento ? el enrollado, el en- rollamiento, el arrollado, el arol- lamiento der Rollsaum Rose la rose la rosa la rosa die Rose Rosette (general la rosette, le noeud la rosetta, la gala la rosa, la roseta die Rosette use) , rose Rosettes (minute les couronnes, les le cornoa la rosa, la roseta, die Rosetten, die thread works) : fleurs volantes, el rosetSn Rosette see Crowns les rosaces Rough (adj.) rude, ebouriffe' -e rozzo, rude, abba- ruff a to erizado, encrespado rauh, roh, uneben Row : see Line : le rang, le tour l'ordine, la fila la fila, la Hnea, la die Reihe see Band hilera Royal (adj.) royal -e reale, regio real koniglich Rubbing : see Trac- l'impression l'impressione, l'im- el frotamiento der Abdruck ing pronto Ruff la fraise, la roton- de il eollare alia spag- nuola la lechuguilla die Krause Ruffle, hand ruff, la manchette, l'en- il manichino, il la vuelta, el puno die Manschette, die parte : see Cuff gageante, la pa- gode manichetto Handkrause Ruler : see Tape le tire-ligne, le re- il stecche la regla das Lineal measure : see gle, le reglet, la Mesh-stick : see reglette Measure Runner : see Ta- le chemin de table la striscia el tablero der Tischlaufer, der blecover Laufer Russian (adj.) russe russo ruso russisch Rust, to rouiller, se rouiller arrugginire, arrug- ginirsi, irruggini- re enmohecerse rosten, verrosten Sacramental (adj.) de benediction de benedizione sacramental sacrementlich, sa- crementarisch Saint Ann la Sainte Anne Sabbia Anna Santa Ana die Heilige Anna Salary les appointements, 1'onorari, la sportu- el salario die Besoldung, das le traitement, les la, la ricompensa Gehalt honoraires Sample 1'echantillon il campione la muestra das Muster Sampler, sam cloth Fexemplaire l'esemplare el ejemplar das Modelltuch, das Musterblatt, das Sticktuch Sand le sable la lazanta la arena der Sand Sawdust : see Ex- la sciure, la sciure la segatura el serrin das Siigemehl celsior de bois Scale, proportion Fechelle la scala, il propor- zioni la escala der Masstab EXPLANATIONS AND NOMENCLATURE 61 ENGLISH FRENCH ITALIAN SPANISH GERMAN Scallop : see Point : le feston il festone la recortadura der Bogen, die Zack- see Shell : see en Fan-shaped Scalloped (adj.) dentele" -e, feston- a festoni, scaglia di festoneado ausgezackt, ausge- ne -e, en ecailles pesce kerbt Scarf : see Tidy 1'echarpe la sciarpa, la ciar- la banda die Scharpe School l'geole pa la scuola la escuela die Schule Scissors les ciseaux gli forbici las tijeras die Schere Scraps, remnants les restes il avanzo, il resto los restos der Abfall, die Kleinen Stiicke Screen le paravent il paravento la pantalla, el biom- bo el tornillo der Schirm Screw : see Cla mp la vis il vite die Schraube Scroll (spiral) : see l'enroulement, ] ,'en- il avvolgersi, la vo- el encaracolado, el der Schnorkel Foliated jolivement, le ceau rin- luta, il incartoc- ciarsi adorno en espiral Seal le cachet, le plomb il piombo, la marca el sello das Siegel Secular, lay (adj.) : seculier -e, laique secolare, laico secular weltlich see Reader Sell, to vend re vendere vender verkaufen Selvage, selvedge : la lisiere la cimossa la orilla das Salbende, die see Edging : see Kante Footing Serpentine, vermi- serpentin -e, en ser- serpentina serpentino schlangen-artig culate (adj.) pent, tortueux -se, vermieuleux -se la parure, l'assorti- il assetto Set el juego die Garnitur ment, la garnitu- Setting : see Out- la sertissure, le ser- la incastonatura la engastadura, el die Einfassung lining : see Lay- tissage engaste, la mon- ing out : see Ap- tadura. ply, to Setting-stick : see Poking-stick Setting up (of 1 ? la montadura das Aufsetzen loose petals) Seventeenth (adj.) dix-septieme diciassettesimo, de- cimosettime decimo septimo siebzehnte Sew, to coudre cucire, cusire coser nahen Sewing, joining 1 e crochetage, le la cucitura, il cuci- el cosido, el engan- das Heften, die Zu- (lucky stroke?), raccrochage, le to che sammenhakelei, accroaching point de raccord, das Zusammen- le point de rac- hakeln croc, le point ; de rucroc Shade : see Win- dow shade Shaded (adj.) ombre' -e, nuancg -e digradato sombreado schattiert Shape : see Form Sharpen, to ; grind, aiguiser affilare, aguzzare amolar, afilar schiirfen to ; whet, to Sharps ? •> la aguja de coser de forma mas larga y mas del- gada 7 Shawl le chale lo sciallo el chal, el panolon, el paliuelo gran- de la vaina, la cubier- der Shawl, der Schal Sheath : see Cover- l'gtui, la gaine , le il astuccio, la cus- das Besteck, das ing cloth : see fourreau, la no- todia, la busta ta Futteral, d i e Case quette, la feuille Scheide de corne, la trousse Sheet le drap il lenzuolo la sabana das Bettuch Shell : see Scallop la coquille de Jacques St. la chiocciola, la lu- maca la concha die Muschel 62 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS ENGLISH FRENCH ITALIAN SPANISH GERMAN Shift, to changer cambiare cambiar wechseln Short (adj.) : see court -e corto corto kurz Squat Showy, for display, d'apparat di pompa, ostenta- ostentoso pruukhaft ostentati ous zione (adj.) :see -Heavi- ness Shrink, to se rfitrecir, se rape- scorciare, ritirarsi, encogerse, atortar- sich zusammenzieh- tisser, rfitrecir diminuire se, disminuir e n, einschrump- fen, zusammen- trocknen Shuttle la navette la spola, la spuola la lanzadera das Weberschiff- chen, der Schiit- Sicilian (adj.) sicilien -ne, de Si- cile siciliano siciliano ze sizilianisch Silk : see Blonde la soie la seta la seda die Seide Silver l'argent il denaro la plata das Silber Simple, plain simple semplice, senzo or- sencillo -11a, sim- einfach (adj.) : see Easy namenti, senza fasto ple 1 Single (adj.) seul -e, simple solo, sola, semplice, unico tinico, solo einfach Single faced (adj.) a simple face semplice de una cara einseitig Single stitch, small la petite maille ser- il semplice piccolo el punto sencillo das einfache Stiib- close stitch ree, la chalne ser- punto chen Sitza ree ? sitza ? sitza ? sitza ? sitza Sixteenth (adj.) seizieme sedicesimo decimo sexto sechzehnte Size, dimension la grosseur, la l'estenzione, la gros- el tamafio, la di- der Dicke, die grandeur sezza, la grandez- za mension Grosse, die Starke Sizing, stiffening : see Dressing Skein l'Scheveau la matassa la madeja die Striihne, die Fitze Skill, dexterity : see l'habiletfi, la dexte- la destrezza, la des- la habilidad die Geschicklich- Execution rity terita keit Skirt la jupe il gonne, la gon- nella la falda, la saya der Rock Slab la plaque la tavola la plancha die Platte Slanting (adj.) : de biais, en 'biais, a sghembo, a sbie- inclinado, sesgado schief see Diagonal incline^ -e co, a schiancio Slashed, paned crevg -e, a. crevgs, staffilato, tagliato, acuchillado geschlitzt (adj.) fendu -e sfregiare, (aper- tura nelle mani- che per mostrare la stoffa al diso- to) Sleeve la manche la manica la manga der Aermel Slider le glissoir de come che sdrucciola, la passante la plaucha corre- diza transpar- ente der Schieber Slip, to glisser, passer, une sdrucciolare, scivo- perder un punto gleiten maille -un point lare para volver a pour le repren- cogerlo dre le tour sui- vant Slip off, to : see glisser, couler, colare, lasciare deslizar verschrilnken Pull over, to lacher, retourner Slit, opening, line, la riviere l'aperto la abertura der Schlitz band Slow (adj.) lent, lente lento lento, tardfo langsam Smock, shift, shirt le sarrau il pastrano, il gab- bano la blusa de obrero der Kittel Smooth (adj.) : lisse, uni -e liscio, piano, unito liso, llano, iguel eben, glatt see Flat: see Glazed Smuggling la contrebande il contrabbando ej contrabando der Schleichhandel, des Smuggeln EXPLANATIONS AND NOMENCLATURE 63 ENGLISH FRENCH ITALIAN SPANISH GERMAN Soak, to tremper bagnare, animol- lare remojar durchnassen, in der Weiche liegen, einweichen Soap le savon il sapone el jabon die Seife Soda la soude la soda la sosa, la soda die Soda Soft (adj.) mou, mol -le, deli- cat souiller molle blando zart Soil, to imbrattare, ingroz- ensuciar beschmutzen, be- zare, macchiare sudeln Song, verse, tell la chanson, le il canto, il canzone, la cancion, la can- das Lied chant la canzonetta tinela Spanish (adj.) espagnol -e, d'Es- pagne spagnuolo espanol spanisch Spider : see Net- l'araignee il ragno, il aragno la arafla die Spinne work Spin, to filer filare hilar spinnen Spindle la broche, la bo- il fuso, la bobine, el huso der Strickstock, bine, la casse il contraforte, l'infornapana der Stengel, die Spindel, ? Spille Splice, to Spisser 9 empalmar splissen Spool la bobine il rocchetto la canilla, el car- rete die Spule Spray, shoot, ten- la vrille, le brin, la il viticcio, il cap- la ramita, el pim- das Reis dril, sprig : see brandille, le rin- reolo pollo Tack ceau Sprinkled, sown, seme' -e, mouchete seminato, sparge- goteado sprenkelich, spren- powdered, strewn -e rato kelig, fecken (adj.) Square : see Medal- le carrfi il quadrado el cuadro, el cuad- das Viereck, das lion rado Quadrat Squat, dumpy, trapu -e atticciato truncado untersetzt truncated (adj.) see Short Stake out, to : see Lay out, to Stamp out, to ; affiquer, bosseler, lavorar d'incavo, dar figura redonda, aufstechen round out, to : refouler, f a i r e fare risaltare realzar see Puff iron ressortir Standing collar, le collet montant il collare Medici el cuello de Medici der Medicikragen Medici collar, standing ruff: see Collar Star I'fitoile la Stella la estrella der Stern Starch, to (Devil's amidonner, goud- insaldare almidonar stiirken Broth — early ronner, empesser name for starch) Steel 1'acier il acciaio el acero der Stahl Steeping, macera- le rouissage il macerazione la mojadura, la ma- das Tunken, das tion ceraci6n Tauchen Stencil le patron, le poncif, le poncis il modello el patron o moddo calado para es- tarcir die Schablone Steps, in (adj.) : en Schelons per iscaglionli escalonado staffelweise, s t a f- see Zigzag felformig Stick in, to ; put enfoncer, mettre, affondare, fissare picar, punzar einstecken up, to : see Pin, to Stiff (adj.) planter raide, empes6 -e duro, inflessibile tieso steif Stiffening : see Dressing Stiletto, punch : see le poingon il punteruolo el punzon die Pfrieme Pricker Stirrup : see Loop : •> la staffa el estribo der Bugel see Riboon Stitch le point, la passfie il punto, la pun- la puntada, el die Masche, der tura, la maglia punto Spitzenstich, der Schlag, der Stich Stitcher, quilter, la piqueuse la piatrice, il ma- el colchonero die Stepperin coucher terassaijo 64 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS ENGLISH Stomacher Straight (adj.) Strand Straw Streaked, striped, scored, striated (adj.) : see Stripe Strengthening, re- inforcing, back- ing : see Repair- ing Stretch, to ; give, to (intr. ) Stretch, to ; pull, to (trans.) Stripe : see Band : see Line : see Streaked : see Bar Stroke, to ; dispose, to Stroke Studio : see Work- room Study, to Stuffed (adj.) Style, fashion Style, manner, taste Subject : see De- sign Sumptuary laws, Office of Pomp Sun Surplice, stole Swaddling band Swiss (adj.) Symbol Symmetrical (adj.) Tablecloth Tablecover : see Runner Tack, sprig, flat nail : see Nail Tailor's thimble : see Finger shield T a 1 i t h , tallith, praying scarf, mantel Tambor: see Hoop Tambor-work Tangle, to ; snarl, to Tape, braid FRENCH le corsage lacS droit -e la meche, le cordon la paille strie' -e, rayS -e ITALIAN il corpetto, il busto, la pettiera, il gustacuore dritto il cordone, il cor- doncello, il cor- doncino la paglia strisciato le rentoilage, le il rinforzamento renforcement, Faction de forti- fier preter, s'elargir, s'fitendre etendre, tendre la raie, la rayure cedere stendere la riga striquer, riser le trait Fatelier regula- rendere, regolare il tratto lo studia gtudier rembourre -e la mode, la vogue le style, le ton, le cachet, le gout le motif, le sujet les lois somptuaires le soleil le surplis la bande d'emmail- lottement suisse le symbole symfitrique studiare imbottirato il modo, la voga il tuono, il stile, il gusto il soggetto, il mo- tivo le legge suntuaria il sole la fascia svizzero il simbolo simmetrico la nappe la tovaglia le dessus de table, la tavolina le tapis la semence, la bro- la bullettina quette le taled la broderie au tam- bour emmgler, entortiller le ruban de fil, la rivi&re de toile il taled il tambur SPANISH el peto, el corpino derecho el cabo, la hebra la paja estriado GERMAN der Latz gerade die Ducht, die Kar- desle, die Schnur eines Strickes das Stroh streifig la ribeteadora, la das Verstarken cosedora estirar extender, estirar la raya alisar, igualar los pliegues con la aguja el toque el taller estudiar llenado, relleno la moda la manera, el gusto, el tono el motivo, el sujeto el arreglo suntuario el sol el sobrepelliz la mantilla, el panel suizo el simbolo simetrico el mantel el tapete la tachuele sin ca- beza el talid el tambor scompigliare, im- enredar brogliare il nastro di filo, di lino, di cotone la cinta de lino o algodon sich dehnen lassen spannen der Streifen ausrauhen der Strich das Atelier studiren gestopft, v o 1 1 ge- pfropft die Mode der Styl, die Man- i e r , der Ge- schmack das Motiv die Aufwandsge- setze die Sonne die Stola das Wickelband schweizerisch der Sinnbild symmetrisch, eben- massig, gleich- massig das Tischtuch die Tischdecke der Stift der Gebetmantel, der Talar die tamburirte Ar- beit verwirren das Zwirnband, das Biindchen EXPLANATIONS AND NOMENCLATURE 65 ENGLISH FRENCH ITALIAN SPANISH GERMAN Tape measure, le metre en ruban la misura la cinta para medir das Bandmass, das line : see Ruler : Rollmetermass see Measure Tassel: see Tuft le gland la nappa la borla, el borl6n die Quasta Tatting la frivolity l'occhi el encaje de hilo hecho a m a n o con lanzadera das Occhi, die Eri- volitiiten Tatting pin and 1 ? el alfiler y anillo •> ring usado para hacer encaje de hilo con lanzadera Tawdry, trashy, vilain, -e, ordinaire, comunaio sin elegancia geschmacklos ge- poor, ordinary, pauvre, maigre, putzt, flitterhaft, common (adj.) miserable wertlos, unniitz Tea le the 1 il te el te der Tee Teach, to enseigner ammaestrare, is- truire, insegnare ensenar lehren, unterrich- ten Teacher, instructor l'institutrice, l'in- l'istitutore, l'isti- el maestro, el pre- die Lehrerin, der stituteur tutrice ceptor Lehrer Thick (adj.) epais -se grosso, fitto espeso dick Thickness Fepaisseur la grossezza el espesor die Dicke Thimble, thummel, le dS Fanello da cucire, el dedal der Fingerhut thumb-hell, fin- il ditale, il ditali gerling chiuso Thimble for crochet le dS pour le cro- ? el dedal para hacer der hakel Finger- work, crochet chet sur metier crochet hut thimble Thin (adj.) mince sottile, leggiero delgado diinn Thread le fil il filo, il refe el hilo der F a d e n , der Spitzenzwirn, der Zwirnfaden Threader : see Needle threader Thumb le pouce il pollice el pulgar der Daumen Thumb tack, draw- la punaise ? la tachuela der Reissnagel, der ing pin : see Reisszwecken Tacit : see Nail Ticking- la toile a matelas, le coutil il traliccio el terliz der Zwillich Tidy, chair-back : le dossier pour fau- l'antimacassar la funda para mue- das Schutzdeck- see Scarf : see teuils, etc. bles chen, der Scbo- Antimaca ssar : ner see Lambrequin Tie together, to ; attacher, Her attaccare, legare, atar, ligar, unir zusammenbinden attach, to : see legate Couple, to : see Fasten off, to : I see Knot Tight, taut (adj.) serrg -e, tendu -e stringato, teso tieso, bien cerrado straff, gespannt Tighten, to serrer stringare estirar fester machen, spannen, anzieh- Tin, white metal l'gtain, le ferblanc il stagno, la latta, il ferro stagnato el estano, la lata en das Zinn Tippet la pelerine la pellegrina la esclavina der Halskragen, der Palatin Token, coin le jeton, le gage la fiscia, il gettone, il pegno la medalla das Zeichen Tool, instrument : Finstrument l'istrumento, l'or- la herramienta, el das Werkzeug see Apparatus digno instrumento Top le haut l'alto el encabezamiento das Obereteil Torn, rent (adj.) deehirS -e squarciato, lacerato rasgado zerissen Tow la filasse la stoppa di canapa la estopa der Werg Towel l'essuie-main l'asciumano, la sal- vietta la toalla das Handtuch Towel sham, throw- le cache linge il eiocehe spende la cubierta de ador- das Oberhandtuch over sopra no para toalla fit; A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS ENGLISH Trace, to ; calk, to ; rub, to ; pounce, to Trace through, to Tracer Tracing: see Rub- bing Tracing cloth, pa- per: see Carbon paper Transfer, to : see Mount, to : see Carbon paper Transfer paper : see Carbon paper : see Tracing cloth FRENCH tracer, calquer, fai- re une impression tracer, buriner, cal- quer la traceuse, le tra- ceur ? le papier de cai- que, le papier transparent, 1 a toile a calquer, le papier vegetal, le papier gelati- ne, la toile d'ar- chitecte transferer, remon- ter ITALIAN calcare, punteggia- re un disegno, copiar un diseg- no passando una punta sui tratti tracciare, calcare, copiare il tracciatore il punteggiare un disegno la tela d'architetto .SPANISH trazar, calzar, ha- cer una impre- sion GERMAN nachzeichnen, kal- kiren, durchpau- sen delinear, calcar el trazador trazar, pausen calcai', copiar en una placa trans- parente el papel de calcar die Vorzeichnerin der Umrisse die Pause die Pausleinwand, das Pauspapier trasferire, rimonta- re, reprovvedere transferir, tar remon- iibertragen Trash, camlet le camelote la cattiva mercan- zia, l'opera di po- ca entita la mala mercancla der Kamelott Tray le easier lo scompartimento el cajoneito der Fachkasten Trefoil le trefle il trifoglio el trfibol der Klee Tresse : see Hair : see Plait Triangle le triangle il triangolo el triangulo der Dreieck Triangular (adj.) triangulaire triangolare triangular dreieckig Trimming, guard- la garniture, la pas- il guarnizione la guarnicion der Besatz, die Ver- ing sementerie zierung Triple, treble (adj.) triple triplo, triplice triplice, triplo dreifach Trousseau le trousseau il corredo el equipo die Aussteuer Truck system, pay- le paiement en na- il pagare in natura el pago en la mis- der Lohnzahlung in ment in kind ture ma forma Waren T-square l'equerre la squadra, la nor- el eartabon, la es- das Winkelmass, ma cuadra das Winkeleisen, das Winkelholz Tucker : see Modes- la collerette, le tour il collaretto, la gala el escote der Bruststreifen, ty piece de gorge der Halsstreifen Tuft (raised), By- le point d'esprit la macchia, il fiori- el copete die Musche zantine, Medici dessus, la touffe, ni, il fiocco, la or Florentine la mouche, la nappa eutwork, over- houppe stitches : see Tas- sel: see Cut- toorks : see Leaf : see Leaf stitch Tulip la tulipe il tulipano el tulipan die Tulpe Turn around or tourner, retourner girare, volgere girar, volver umkehren back, to ; reverse, to : see Double Tweezers les pincettes il pinzette, le mol- lette las tenacillas das Zangclchen Twist, to ; simple tordre, tortiller torcere torcer drehen twist, to Twisted (adj.) corde -e, tordu -e attorto rctorcido, torcido verschlungen Twister (machine) le croise-fils 9 la maquinilla para ? retorcer hilos EXPLANATIONS AND NOMENCLATURE G7 ENGLISH FRENCH Under, beneath, be- au-dessous, sous low Undo, to defaire Unemployment le chomage, le chau- mage Unravel, to : see Ravel, to Untie, to denouer, detacher, dfilier ITALIAN sotto, di sotto, iu- feriormente disfare il sciopero, il scio- pro, il tempo che se passa senza la- vorare sciogliete SPANISH debajo, abajo deshacer, desatar el desocupado GERMAN unter auflosen die Feierzeit desligar, desatar, aufbinden soltar Valance la pente la balza, il penda- glio, il drappelo- la gotera der Bettkranz Valuable (adj.) : de grande valeur, ne di gran valore, pre- precioso, que vale wertvoll, kostbar see Expensive : precienx -se zioso mucho see Rare Variety, sort, kind l'espece, la variete la specie, la varie- te la variedad die Gattung, die Art Vegetable (adj.) vegetal -e vegetale vegetal pflanzenartig, vege- tabilisch Veil, fall la voile, la faille il velo el velo der Schleier Veil (hanging) le velum il velo, la bandinel- el velo der Vorhang (for the Host) la Veined (adj.) (rai- veine -e venato venoso, veteado geadert sed) Vertical (adj.) vertical -e verticale vertical senkrecht, vertikal Vestment le vetement , l'habil- il vestimento, l'ab- la vestimenta das Gewand, das lement bigliamento Kleid Victorian (adj.) victorien -ne Vittoria victoriano -a victorisch Virgin la Vierge la Virgine la Virgen die Jungfrau Wadding : see Quilt- ing Waist Warm, tepid (adj.) see Hot Warp, chain Wash, to Water Watering place, spa, summer re- sort Waves, undula- tions, overlap- ping loops, rip- ples, folds Wax Wax-cloth : see Oil- cloth Weaver, worker, runner Web Weight : see Clamp 1'ouate la blouse, le corsa- ge tiede la chaine (fils ten- dus) laver Feau la ville d'eau des flots la cire le trameur, le con- ducteur, la pai- re de remplissa- ge le tissu, la toile le poids, le plomb, la pelote lourde — w l'ovatta, la bamba- gia, l'imbottitura la blusa tiepido, tepido l'ordito, la catena lavare l'acqua l'acque, i bagni l'anella il tessitore el entreforro la blusa calido, tibio la urdimbre, la te- la, la cadena lavar el agua el balneario la onda, la ondula- cion la cera el tejedor, el traba- jador il tessuto, la tessi- el tegido, la tela tura il peso, el piombo el peso die Wattierung, die Baumwollwatte, die Fiillung die Taille warm der Weberzettel, die Kette waschen das Wasser das Spaa die Kriiusel der Wachs das Schusspaar, der Weber das Gewebe das Gewicht G8 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS ENGLISH FRENCH ITALIAN SPANISH GERMAN Wet (adj.) : see mouill6 -e bagnato, umido mojado, humedo nass Dampen, to Wheel: see Out- la roue la ruota la ruedecilla, la das Rad line, to: see rueda Winding ma- chine Whip, to: see Over- cast, to / White (adj.) blanc, blanche bianco bianco weiss Whole stitch, dou- le point entier , le il punto finito el punto completo der Ganzschlag, der ble pass, whole point matte, le Doppelschlag, (2 throw, gimp, mat, toile, la double Halbschliige) math passee Width la largeur la larghezza la largueza, la lar- gura die Weite Wimple (nun's), la guimpe, la 1 jar- il soggolo, la gor- la toca, el grinon der Brustschleier, gorget: see Guim- bette giera, la benda der Wimple, das pe Brusttuch Wind, to ; hank, to pelotonner aggomitolare devanar, reducirlo a ovillo kniiuelenbilden, wickeln, aufwic- keln Winder, reel le devidoir Farcolaio, il guindo- lo el aspa die Garnwinde, die Garnhaspel, der Haspel, die Zwirnwinde Winding l'enroulage 1'aggomitolare el ovillar das Wickeln Winding machine, le devidoir, le bo- il guindolo, il arco- la enrrolladora pa- die Wickelmaschine bobbin winder, binoir laio, il avolajo di ra palillos lace turn, wheel fuselli Window shade : see le store la persiane, il pa- el transparente der Fensterschirm Curtain rasole, il legno Wood le bois il legno la madera das Holz Woof, weft (shut- la trame la trama la trama das Gewebe, der tle thread) Einschlag, der Eintrag der Warf Wool la laine la lana la lana die Wolle Work, opus l'ouvrage il lavoro la obra, el trabajo die Arbeit Work bag le sac a ouvrage il sacco el saco de labor der Arbeitsbeutel Work basket la corbeille a vrage ou- la paniera de lavo- ro la cesta, la canasta der Arbeitskorb Work box la bolte a ouvrage l'astuccio da lavoro el costurero, la caja die Arbeitsschach- de labor tel, das Zwirn- kiistchen Worker : see Wea- ver Workroom : see l'atelier, l'ouvroir il lavoratorio, la el taller die Werkstatt Factory : see bottega da la- Studio voro, l'officina Worsted, yarn le fil de laine, laine filee la la lana filata el hilo de lana das wollene Garn Wrongside, back I'envers il rovescio el reves die Riickseite Yak la yack l'iaco el yak ? Yack Yard le metre (39 Eng- la jarda la yarda die englische Elle lish inches) Yarn-holder, bangle, le bracelet il s m a n i g 1 i o, il el brazelete para die S p a n g e , der bracelet braccialetto, il anello da poise hilo de lana Garn Haspel Yoke, chemisette, 1'empiecement 1'empiecement, il el peto de blusa, el das Achselstiiek dickey, gorgias : devanti d ' u n e frente de blusa see Collar blusa il zigzag Zigzag : see Steps, le zigzag el ziszas, el zigzag der Zickzack Chapter IV RULES FOR MAKING "The whole value of lace as a possession depends on the fact of its having a, beauty which has been the reward of industry and attention. That the thing is itself a price — a thing everybody cannot have. That it proves, by the look of it, the ability of the maker; that it proves, by the rarity of it, the dignity of its wearer. ... 7/ they all chose to have lace, too, if it ceases to be a price, it becomes, does it not, only a cobweb? The real good of a piece of lace, then you will find, is that it should show, first, that the designer of it hath a pretty fancy; next, that the maker of it had fine fingers; lastly, that the wearer of it has worthiness or dignity enough to obtain what is difficult to obtain, and common sense enough not to wear it on all occasions." — Ruskin. LINEN OR CLOTH STITCH JOINING BANDS. The rule for making linen stitch or cloth stitch is : — cross, twist, cross. The quarter inch bands in this sampler are made of six hanging pairs and a weaver. i The half-inch bands are made of twelve pendant pairs and a weaver. The one inch bands are made of twenty-four pairs and a weaver. 69 70 □= A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -a LINE A, COL. 1, / Net Stitch, Lattice Ground, Demi-Point, Toile Ouverte, Point Reseau. For this first sample twenty-four pendant bobbins and a weaving pair are needed. It is made entirely of simple half-stitch, for which the rule is twist, cross. This operation is repeated from left to right across the top row, then from right to left across the one below, and so on until one reaches the bottom. By making the same stitch a second time at each edge; that is, by repeating it after placing the edge pin, before starting the next row below, the edge can be made firmer. □= -□ RULES FOR MAKING 71 =□ LINE A, COL. 2, Virgin Ground, Pin Check, Pink Check, Ornamental Ground, Binche, Cinq Trous, Point Carre. This is the Variation of Virgin Ground, generally known as Cinq Trous, belonging originally to Binche Lace. Each motif or block requires four pairs, two of which enter at the upper left-hand corner, two at the upper right. To make the upper left-hand ornament, twist and cross. The upper right-hand ornament is made in the same way. Two center pairs, one coming from the left and one from the right, are twisted and crossed. A pin is placed at the n- :□ 72 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS a === =□ LINE A, COL. 2— Continued, Virgin Ground, Pin Check, Pink Check, Ornamental Ground, Binche, Cinq Trous, Point Carre. ' center top and is closed by twisting and crossing. This is repeated at the center left, center right and center bottom. The ornaments at the lower left and lower right are now made as they were above by twisting and crossing without pins. At the edge of the lace, the ornament is made before tying the threads or entering a cloth-stitch band, and is again made after coming out from the cloth- stitch band. If the above instructions are followed, every pair will have been twisted once before it intersects another pair. The essential difference between Cinq Trous and Virgin Ground is that the ornaments of the former are more open, making the corner holes more prominent, as they are only twisted and crossed, while the Virgin Point orna- ments are twisted, crossed, then again twisted and crossed. Another method of making Cinq Trous is that of following a zigzag line running downwards from right to left, the points of which occur at the middle top and center base of each little solid block of Cinq Trous filling, the maker using only two instead of four pins; that is, omitting the two side ones. At the beginning of each zigzag, after baving twisted the threads and made the cloth-stitch, one places a pin without closing it. To descend one step of the zigzag stairway, one makes a half-stitch with the two left-hand pairs, a similar half-stitch with the two right-hand pairs, next twisting the threads and making a linen-stitch with the two pairs now lying nearest the center. At this point one places the next or second pin without closing it. To remount a step, one puts aside the two pairs at the right of the pin, taking up two new pairs at the left, and with these two new ones and the two directly left of the pin, one repeats what one did in descending the stair. One leaves two pairs aside only at the foot of a step. At the base of the whole stairway, after having finished the stitch and having placed a pin, one again makes a complete stitch without removing the pin or using another, to finish off; exactly as though one were about to redescend ; and it is well to see that the big bars or bands of solid and open Cinq Trous are parallel in both directions. a ==P □= RULES FOR MAKING 73 =□ LINE A, COL. 3, Malines, Mechlin, Ijsgrond, Fond de Glace, Eisgrond. f*Wi •m It requires eight pairs to make a Malines mesh, two pairs on each vertical side of the mesh braided three times. The two innermost pairs, one from each braid, are now twisted twice each and coming together, form a new braid for a lower or succeeding mesh. The meshes thus formed are six-sided, having two braided sides and four twisted ones. -□ 74 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS o= =□ LINE A, COL. 4, Trude "A" Ground (original) (American.") Each mesh requires seven pairs. One should always cloth-stitch with the two pairs that descend, no matter from which direction they come, before passing or laying them — without cloth-stitching — between the two threads of the pair that traverses the lace horizontally. A pin should be placed between the two descending threads under the horizontal pair to sustain the joint and avoid confusion. Every pair should be twisted once between stitches, except in the center of the large open star, where each bar or ray of the star should be twisted twice. □= — □ RULES FOR MAKING D' 75 LINE A, COL. 5, Star Mesh, Double Ground, Point de Paris, Point de Six, Eternelle, Point Double, Trenne, Chantilly, Fond Chant, Engelsche Grond, Dentelle de Grammont. This pretty and durable stitch is made in the same way as that described under Line C, Column 5, except that each pair is twisted once before every encounter, and a pin is placed beneath each cross to support it. The actual stitch is a linen-stitch. □ r -□ 76 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS P= =□ LINE A, COL. 6, Point du Mariage fait a la Torchon au Demi-Point. rafl Each motif in this case requires two parallel, vertical pairs and two inter- secting, diagonal pairs. The point of their intersection comes between the two parallel, vertical lines. Each time that the worker, coming from the upper left- hand, traverses another pair, whether a vertical or another diagonal, it and its mate are twisted and crossed once. A pin is placed and they are twisted and crossed to close it. The weaver coming from the upper right-hand, and the two parallel pairs, do likewise wherever they encounter other pairs. The pins should not be removed until the work is finished, as the threads pull easily. This mesh is quickly made ; but does not wash well. See Line A, Column 5. a- □= RULES FOR MAKING 77 LINE A, COL. 7, Square-meshed Valenciennes of Honfleur (braided 1 or IVsj times). Each mesh requires four threads to a side. These threads are braided once between joints. The two pairs which, after the tressing, are at the inside next each other, now cloth-stitch and the joint is supported by a pin. The right-hand one of the pairs is twisted once after the joint, but the pair going towards the left remains untwisted before entering the new plait. The two outside, hanging pairs of the braid are, however, twisted once before they enter into the new braid below, which is the beginning of a new mesh. Thus only the interior pairs linen-stitch, and the two outside pairs, which are twisted once, hang idly while the cloth-stitch is made. This joint is spoken of by some writers as being braided once, and by others as being braided one and a half times ; the discrepancy of description being caused by an extra cross in the braiding, for =D 78 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS cf— — — ■ ■ - a LINE A, COL. 7— Continued, Square-meshed Valenciennes of Honfleur (braided 1 or \\'» times). immediately after and immediately before each joint, there must, in square Valenciennes, be a cross. If one braids by crossing, twisting: then the cross must be added at the end. If one plaits by twisting, crossing: then a cross must be made at the beginning, after the joint is finished. It is less confusing to work across the lace in a horizontal line. One can make the right-hand braid which is about to enter into the joint, placing the right-hand pair astride a pin to keep the plait from coming undone: then making the left-hand tress, and with these bobbins in the hand, finish the joint. This method can be reversed when one is working in the opposite direction. Then holding the two center pairs firmly in hand, one can detach the right-hand pair, pull all into shape and place a pin. This Valenciennes is strong, clumsy and very slow to make. D D RULES FOE MAKING 79 LINE A, COL. 8, Devonshire Pin Filling. if .:! 1 *4 MKuamMSk *.i:i:&SI.!ufe ijCVMKIiSfei **■:»■*:■:■: *p §iil?:p$j:i ■•••■ 9:. This is an easy, pretty jour. The outworks are placed alternately below each other. At the bottom of a cutwork a pin is placed, when the pairs are twisted three times, cloth-stitched through each other, and again twisted three times going in opposite directions, but horizontally, towards the tops of other points d 'esprit or leadworks. At the top of a new cutwork, the pairs entering it cloth-stitch. Here a pin is placed and the pairs, after being twisted three times, are ready to form the new leadwork, which must be made long enough to reach the pin hole below. □= zD 80 □= A LACE GUIDE FOB MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -a LINE A, COL. 9, Devonshire Four Pearl Filling. n||| IP to This filling is worked diagonally in sets of four pearl pins joined by four braided bars. Bach bar requires two pairs, and should be made long enough to reach from the bottom of one set of picots to the top of the next set. At the top of one of these motifs, one takes the inside couple on the left, twists it three times ; puts up a pin in the top hole ; passes one of the weaver threads around the pin from the right to the left ; and its mate from the left to the right ; then twists the pair once and closes the pin by making a linen-stitch with the outside couple. The two central pairs, one from the upper left and one from the upper right, now cloth-stitch and twist once. The two right-hand pairs linen-stitch Q= RULES FOB MAKING 81 a — p LINE A, COL. 9— Continued, Devonshire Four Pearl Filling. and another picot is made at the right-hand pin hole in the same way as at the top, and the pin is closed by cloth-stitching the picot pair with its mate and twisting them once. The left-hand pearl pin is made in the same way. Then the two center, bottom pairs, each one already twisted once, linen-stitch. Next the two right-hand pairs cloth-stitch and the inner pair of these two makes the fourth picot. These two pairs continue downwards toward the right, braiding until they meet the next motif. The two left-hand pairs are also plaited until they meet another set of pearl pins at the lower left. n D 82 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS LINE A, COL. 10, Devonshire Diamond Filling. imp Jiiitf nliff :!!'«l After finishing the oblong cutwork, each pair is twisted three times and each cutwork is supported by a pin placed in the two upper of the four holes. This division leaves a pair of bobbins outside of each pin with two couples together in the center. These two upper, inside pairs linen-stitch through each other, and a pin is placed between them to support the joint, when they are twisted three times. They then continue downwards in their respective direc- tions; one to the right and one to the left; and here each one linen-stitches through the pair it meets coming from the cutwork above, when each pair is again twisted three times. The two pairs now at the center, cloth-stitch through each other and are twisted three times. Here the two lower side pins are placed. One is now ready to make the long, rectangular point d 'esprit, diagonal bands between the attractive, middle five hole, diamond openings. These cut- works are made in the usual way: but are about twice as long as the standard square point d 'esprit. =D RULES FOB MAKING 83 LINE A, COL. 11, Trude "D" Ground (original) (American). Two pairs to a joint are required for this pattern, which, is made on the diagonal, with two pins placed right below each other forming a double joint. The two threads coming from the upper left-hand are twisted twice and those coming from the upper right-hand are twisted twice. The two center bobbins are crossed and a pin placed below. The pairs are again twisted and crossed, and another pin placed, which is closed by twisting and crossing. □= =□ 84 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS a - =p LINE A, COL. 12, Trude "G" Ground (original) (American). Three pairs or bars enter at each upper side of the diagonally tipped squares. Each of these six bars is twisted three times between squares. Every other square is made of cloth-stitch, and every other one is grilled instead of being solid, each pair twisted once between the linen-stitches. The squares are thus alternated. A pin is placed below each one to sustain it : but. no others are used. Q= =0 D= RULES FOR MAKING 85 =D LINE A, COL. 13, Trade "I" Ground (original) (American). IV« feg i**^*? Twenty-one pairs were used in making this sample, the horizontal pair going from left to right, then back, and so on, as a weaver. Each line on the pricking represents two threads twisted. The long diagonal, vertical and hori- zontal pairs are twisted four times; the short vertical and horizontal pairs are twisted once. The vertical and horizontal threads weave through each other with a linen stitch each time they intersect. The diagonals in the small squares are not twisted, as the former twisting holds over. The diagonal threads entering the small squares at their right- hand upper corners are placed under the vertical and horizontal pairs without a stitch. The diagonal threads entering the small squares at their left-hand upper corners are placed over the vertical and horizontal pairs without a stitch. a= -□ 86 A LACE GUIDE FOB MAKERS AND COLLECTORS D ' ■ LINE A, COL. 13— Continued, Trude "I" Ground (original) (American). At the bottoms of these tiny squares, the diagonal threads that enter at the left, leave at the right by passing under the other threads. The diagonals that come from the right go out over the vertical and horizontal ones without a stitch, so as to prevent their slipping either up or down or from left to right. At the centers of both the large and small squares, the two diagonal pairs intersect and weave through each other with a linen stitch. These intersections should be supported with a pin. a === = a RULES FOR MAKING 87 LINE A, COL. 14, Trentino ri i", ■As** +Zz~~s:±^ -SJ* ^ts?-:^ wmsiul. r SSft T-uBiS It requires two pairs to make each wheel or roue, aud eight pairs more to fill each spider. Linen-stitch and half-stitch spiders should be alternated. The wheel pairs are twisted twice between the pairs they cross, and each pair just inside of the wheel, or just outside of the body of the spider, is twisted twice. Two spider legs enter at the extreme top, two at each upper side, and two at one side. Two legs leave horizontally at the opposite side from which the two pairs enter, two leave at each lower side, and two at the bottom. In the linen- stitch spider filling, the two top spider legs enter and leave in the opposite direction from the two pairs entering at the side, so that four pairs weave towards the right through the four pairs that weave towards the left, making an even square. In the half-stitch spider body, the upper pair entering at the □= =0 88 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS D C LINE A, COL. 14— Continued, Trentino. upper side is used as a weaver, and crosses to the center of the opposite side, taking in the two legs entering there. It then returns to the center of the first side, taking in the remaining upper side pair; then it weaves to the lower part of the opposite side. This makes three cross threads. One must be sure that it is really the two wheel or encircling pairs that meet at the bottom. One braid stitch is made at the bottom after the wheel is finished, between the left wheel pair and the spider leg pair to the left of it, and between the right-hand wheel pair and the leg to the right of that. One is then ready to start the spider right below. The entrance and exit of the horizontal side legs make it necessary to make one row of spiders from the left to the right and the row below from the right to the left. A short, horizontal braid is made between spiders; also a diagonal braid connections of lower legs from one spider cross- ing over downwards through a reverse braid to become the upper legs of the spider one row diagonally below. a- CF BULES FOE MAKING 89 =□ LINE A, COL. 15, Triangular, Fan-Shaped Points d'Esprits or Cut Works. r^sjT'».»;i--. : . '••i : i~:-"b- :-'i- ^7* '■'■-■ -- : £«3 It requires four threads to make one fan, and the fans are woven exactly as outworks or leaves are, but started wide at the top and gradually tapered to a point at the bottom. At the foot of one fan and the top of another, one should make sure that the two entering threads at the right and at the left are twisted round each other, so that two independent threads will not be seen bridging between triangles. The top of the new fan should be supported by two pins spread as far apart as the triangle is to be made wide. Another pin should be placed under the finished apex at the bottom of the triangle. □= =□ 90 A LACE GUIDE FOB MAKERS AND COLLECTORS =0 LINE A, COL. 16, Abruzzian Mezza Cambruccia. i. ^t • ♦ • *► «i V «£ % S^r «^tf WV w £ «£ ^' >•* » m' «^I< ;:;:•<* .^' „W „• . ,-r _• - «* ; ; It requires four threads to make each one of these spiders. Two pairs twisted once enter at the left-hand top of the spider and two pairs twisted once enter at the right-hand top of the spider. This spider is made as the ordinary spider is : but the centers should be arched by pulling the outside threads tighter than the inside ones, and holding the inside ones up in the air while working around the pin. This arched shape can be better preserved by placing a support pin just at the base of the spider. The two pairs that leave the spider going towards the left are twisted once and enter the spider next below towards the left. The two threads leaving at the right are twisted once and enter the spider just below on that side. Or =□ RULES FOB MAKING 91 LINE A, COL. 17, Trude "N" Ground (original) (American). :«ir «y fa** *4P i^r . sf &? i * £ € fip if* V W W W*** ■'y*P f £P 1&P VAT Mi sir *««5«t.,,; ;■•»*»*, -~" ,, »-.-";;" *MP*' This net is made by twisting once, then crossing, twisting and crossing, placing a pin and closing it by crossing, twisting and crossing. This mesh is made on the diagonal ; is very simple, and as the strands are interlocked, it is much firmer and less apt to shift than Torchon Ground, for which it can gen- erally be substituted. ;□ RULES FOR MAKING □= 95 =□ LINE B, COL. 2, Virgin Ground, Ornamental Ground, Fond de la Vierge, Point Carre. •■ 4 £t£fl£fl$- & Vf J. I*-, * fa This is the plain, ordinarily used Virgin Ground. Four pairs and four pins are required for the making of each square; two pairs enter at the upper left to form the upper left-hand ornament, which is made by twisting once and crossing, and twisting once and crossing without pinning. The same is done at the upper right-hand corner. The two center pairs, one from the right and one from the left, now twist and cross : a pin is placed at the center top, and is closed by twisting once and crossing. This stitch is repeated at the center left, the center right and the bottom; then the two lower ornaments are made, just as the two top ones were, without pinning. These lower ornaments serve as the upper ones for succeeding squares below. =D 96 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -a LINE B, COL. 3, Brussels, Droschel, Vrai Reseau (fait sans epmgles), Drochel. 3 -•. la- See Line C, Column 3. Brussels hexagonal ground requires four pairs to each stitch, the two vertical sides of the stitch being braided four times. The braided pair of each plait, now towards the center, is twisted twice ; and the two pairs being brought together, form a new vertical plait. Thus each mesh is sis-sided, having two braided and four twisted sides. This ground, having one braid more than Mechlin, is slightly more open. =□ RULES FOR MAKING 97 LINE B, COL. 4, Trude "B" Ground (original) (American). '..w. M*WiSittv£sIrii!£*: This ground, requires five pairs to each mesh. The pendent pair is twisted once between stitches. At the star-center where the three pairs traverse each other, none of them are twisted, but the two diagonal pairs should linen-stitch and be placed or laid between the two threads of the horizontal pair. Here one should place a pin between the diagonal pairs, under the horizontal one, to support the joint and serve as a guide. The horizontal pair should be twisted twice in the long space that occurs above and below the star-centers, between vertical pairs. D= 98 □= A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS LINE B, COL. 5, Lattice Ground, Gekreuzter Gittergrund (3 twists). •..#• ;~ • I '•'- '.:'.':;'--":;?■'.'•'-' •■■-; : t'™J" Four pairs are required iu making this stitch, two that fall vertically and two which run diagonally. The joints formed hy the weaving of the oblique pairs through each other should be supported by pins. The vertical pairs are twisted three times between intersections; the diagonal pairs once. All joints are formed by cloth-stitching. -□ RULES FOR MAKING 99 0= -D LINE B, COL. 6, Twice-twisted Virgin Point — mit zweimal gedrehtem Schlusschlag. Two pairs enter each motive or block at the upper left-hand and two at the upper right-hand. Each square requires eight pins. The four ornament, or corner pins, are placed thusi ; then the central stitches inside of the ornaments are held in place by pins placed thus • The two pairs entering at the upper left-hand are twisted twice and crossed. Here a pin is placed and closed by twisting twice and crossing. This is the upper left-hand ornament. The same process is repeated for the upper right- hand ornament. Now the two center pairs, one from the left and one from the right, are twisted twice and crossed. A pin is placed at the center top and closed by twisting twice and crossing. This stitch is repeated at the center left ; that is, twisting twice, crossing, placing a pin and closing it by twisting twice and crossing. The same is done at the center right and again at the center bottom with the two middle pairs. One is now ready to make the lower, left- and right- hand ornaments. These done, one has only to twist the pairs twice in order to make the centers of the squares below; for the lower ornaments of one square serve as upper ornaments to succeeding squares. 100 □== A LACE GUIDE FOB MAKERS AND COLLECTORS : LINE B, COL. 7, Square-meshed Valenciennes of Ghent or Gand and Menin (braided 2 or 2 ] /2 times). See Line A, Column 7. This Valenciennes is made in the same way, except that the sides of the meshes are braided two or two and a half times, the joints being made in the same way as those of Honfleur. =D BVLES FOR MAKING CF 101 LINE B, COL. 8, Devonshire Cushion. Four pairs are required for each motif: two pairs at the upper left and two pairs at the upper right cloth-stitch, are twisted three times, pinned and closed with a linen-stitch. "When all four couples have been worked up to this point, the two outside ones are twisted three times and hang idly while the leadwork is being made, waiting to join in again below it. The two inside pairs are each twisted once and proceed to make the outwork. After it is finished, they are again each twisted once and cloth-stitched through the two outside couples which have been awaiting them. A pin is placed below each of these joints and the pairs are twisted three times and closed, ready to continue. zD 102 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -D LINE B, COL. 9, Devonshire Hexagonal Bar Filling. Each bar requires two pairs, but at the joint four pairs are worked together. Here the threads are used double, two bobbins being passed over two others, so that the stitch made is identical to that made by only half the number. At this intersection the pairs should be crossed and twisted and again crossed and twisted. Now the couples divide, two working to the right and two to the left. Each one is now twisted and crossed three successive times. The pairs nearest the pin holes are twisted three times. One thread is put around the pin from right to left and its mate from left to right, when the pair is twisted once and re-enters the braid. The braid is made by twisting and crossing three successive times. Then a second pearl pin is put up; and the braid again twisted and crossed three times. a= J3 □= RULES FOR MAKING 103 LINE B, COL. 10, ? «*■ . I"* St Ji ^*"^ lfc ** 1?^ [if - 5*855 K *— *^ •IB ' ^ ^.SK. . -*. . ^»*„i_ There are two pairs in these vertical bands, besides the weaver. The latter is twisted three times around each winkie pin. Each pair that enters into the cutwork (the weavers from the two sides) is twisted once before entering the points d 'esprit. But the cutwork weaver should be twisted twice after the lead- work is finished before cloth-stitching through the band to the other side. This filling is worked from the left to the right, as the left-hand cutwork must be finished before the one slightly below it to the right can be begun. =□ 104 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS ~-Q LINE B, COL. 11, Trude "E" Ground (original) (American). Two pairs to a joint are required for this pattern, which is made on the diagonal, with two pins placed right below each other forming a double joint. The two threads coming from the upper left-hand are twisted twice and those coming from the upper right-hand are twisted twice. The two center bobbins are crossed and a pin placed below. The pairs are twisted twice and crossed and another pin placed, which is closed by twisting twice and crossing. =□ BVLES FOB MAKING 105 — Q LINE B, COL. 12, Dice Holes, Slanting Hole. I it *'"**' Wi IP ill w w ll W ili Sii This is a cloth-stitched ground alternated with a grilled ground. The con- ductor runs back and forth from left to right, and then from right to left hori- zontally through the pendant pairs : but the opened and closed squares themselves are placed obliquely; that is, their sides or margins are on the diagonal. The solid and open parts are made by linen-stitching: but in the open parts both the worker and the pairs it traverses are twisted twice. In starting an open grill, there is first one open square, the next time three grilled squares, then five, next seven. Then one decreases similarly. There is thus one hole at each side, left and right; one at the top and bottom center and seven holes across through the middle whether counted vertically or horizontally. In this connection it may be interesting to refer to Line D, Column 14 and Line H, Column 16. □= 106 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -a LINE B, COL. 13, Point de Tresse with Plain Picots in Lower Joints. :jt'T;:;..u';V.-i5:5:?ir;:.-.- : ' -."■■.-•:«i-:v. • -*j;: :"<»k.l" !' • ; "~ _ "" - A.W ;; i .2:!: This sample requires twenty pairs, four to each braid. The picot just below the lower joining of each two braids, is made with the left-hand thread in the same manner as usual. The threads should be twisted before they are crossed, as crossing would push the picot up the side of the braid. The braids then intersect each other with a linen-stitch. D= -U □= RULES FOR MAKING 107 ==□ LINE B, COL. 14, A Spotted Italian Ground. — n — ; — \ This pretty ground is very quickly and easily made. Pour passive or vertical pairs besides the weaver are required in the making of each spot. These four pairs are each twisted once. The two center ones then cloth-stitch and are twisted once : a pin is placed and closed by linen-stitch- ing; and these two central pairs are again twisted once. One pair now works towards the left and one towards the right, each cloth-stitching with a remaining vertical pair. A pin is here placed between the two left-hand pairs, and another pin between the two right-hand ones, all four are again twisted once, and are now ready to be cloth-stitched four times by the working pair. The spot or dot pairs are not twisted again until the weaver has woven through them four times. ;D 108 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS LINE B, COL. 14— Continued, A Spotted Italian Ground. The weaver works all the way across the lace from one side to the opposite edge , then back j without being twisted either between dots or in traversing them : but the conductor can be twisted twice, if one wishes, at the edge of the lace beyond the outermost columns of spots. The bottom or end of the circle is completed in the same way only reversed, that it is begun — by placing a pin below the last line of the weaver between the two left-hand pairs of the dot, and another pin between its two right-hand pairs ; then by twisting each pair once, cloth-stitching the two left-hand ones and cloth- stitching the two right-hand ones ; then twisting each pair once more, linen-stitch- ing the two that are now in the center, twisting them once, placing a pin, closing it by a linen-stitch, again twisting these central pairs once, so that they may be ready to linen-stitch through the other two pendent pairs. D O □= RULES FOR MAKING 109 LINE B, COL. 15, Fat, Maltese Petals, Leaves, Seeds, Grains, Wheat Ears, Paddles mM m Wmim Each leaf is made of four threads woven as are the ordinary Cluny petals ; but made very fat or wide, even though one leaf overlaps another. A little prac- tise enables one to produce even edges. D= =D 110 0= A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS LINE B, COL. 16, Abruzzian or Pescolane Cross Pattern. This pattern is the same as Line A, Col. 16 — Mezza Cambruccia — except that between an upper row of spiders and the row beneath it, each pair of threads leaving one spider passes obliquely through two other sets of threads before en- tering a lower spider. Thus little, hollow, diagonal squares or double crosses are formed between spiders. The two pairs of threads that leave the lower right- hand end of an upper spider pass obliquely to the right into the left-hand upper end of the next spider just below to the right, and vice versa. Each of these pairs of threads is twisted once between intersections with other pairs of threads. D= RULES FOB MAKING 111 =□ LINE B, COL. 17, Trude "O" Ground (original) (American). Hi is hum Iff? The linen is four pairs wide ; the grille only two. Each pair is twisted once in the grille work. A supporting pin should be placed between threads at im- portant junctions to help one find the place, and to keep the line straight ; but should not be left in place more than one line back, or one cannot pull up the loose, spread threads which the pins leave. The twisted pairs spread or push the cloth-work away from them, and this pushing inward of the linen must be specially guarded against on the long sides. Where the grille and cloth edges meet, the margin pair always belongs to the linen. D= 112 A LACE GUIDE FOB MAKERS AND COLLECTORS =D LINE B, COL. 18, Moulinet. This ground was originated by Mme. H. H. de Juillien and took a prize at one of the leading expositions in Milan. Sixteen pairs are required for the making of each mesh, as two braids enter at the upper left and two at the upper right of each little solid square. In making these squares, one must be careful to spread out one 's threads in order to prevent the appearance of a hollow streak in the center of the square. In weaving this solid dot, one cloth-stitches the innermost pair of the inner, upper, left-hand braid through the pairs of the two right-hand braids. Then one uses the other pair of the inner, upper, left hand plait and again linen-stitches down through the right-hand pairs. One can now reassemble the two pairs of the upper, inner left-hand tress and begin a new one sloping towards the right below the solid square. Returning to the upper left-hand, one uses first the inner and then the RULES FOR MAKING 113 i a LINE B, COL. 18— Continued, Moulinet. outer pairs of the remaining braid as weavers, cloth-stitching them successively through the four pairs coming from the upper right. This done, the solid square is completed and can be supported at its base by a pin. The braids should not be made too long or they will buckle up or out. Loops or picots occur at each side of the center of every plait to relieve the straightness and stiffness of the lattice background. The picots here shown are the plain, ordinary ones, but knotted picots can be used instead should one prefer. Those picots used in this sample, which fall to the right of a braid, are made by using the rightmost thread of that plait, placing a pin under it with the point towards the left, raising the point downwards towards the right over the thread, and sticking the pin into the indicated dot on the pricking. To prevent a gap in the braid, one should make the picot immediately after twisting, and should recommence the tress by twisting, pulling the threads up tight. The picot on the left of the braid is made by using the leftmost thread, holding the pin in the left hand, placing its point downwards towards the right under the thread, bringing it downwards, up over the thread, towards the left and into the indicated pinhole. n . , - n 114 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS =D LINE C, COL. 1, Plain Hole Ground, Torchon, Reseau Stitch, Einfacher Locherschlag ]A&h:&mim WBskL i-m This very simple net ground is made by twisting and crossing, and placing a pin. The pin is closed by twisting and crossing. The mesh runs obliquely. □= J3 RULES FOR MAKING 115 LINE C, COL 2, Scotch Broom Stitch, Point Jesi^et oa Genet, Ziergrund mit Schragstreifen-Mostertiog. C * ■ . ikSUR! This requires three pairs. One enters, divides, and becomes one of the two, long, parallel lines. A second pair divides, and forms the other of the two, par- allel lines. Then a third pair enters at the upper left. This stitch is made from right to left by twisting and crossing once each time. The little bars or barrettes between the two, double bands of parallel lines are made by twisting three times. When one reaches the edge of the lace on the left, the pairs have to be knotted and cut off unless they form part of a long, continuous pattern made by the French 0= 116 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS □ r ■ q LINE C, COL. 2— Continued Scotch Broom Stitch, Point Jeunet ou Genet, Ziergrund mit Schragstreifen-Musterung. ' method. The worker entering at "1" intersects a parallel line by twisting and crossing, and continues towards the left, twisting and crossing through the second, parallel line, then twisting and crossing with the barrette that enters at "2." Here a pin is placed and closed by twisting and crossing. As one descends towards the right, one intersects by twisting and crossing ; a pin is placed at " 3 " and closed by twisting and crossing, which leaves a barrette pair hanging towards the right ; this is twisted three times and is now ready to enter the set of lines in the band below. Then one works to the left towards "4-," where another bar- rette enters from above. D= RULES FOB MAKING D= 117 LINE C, COL. 3, Brussels, Droschel, Vrai Reseau, Point d'Angleterre Net, Drochel. ti&ssm H I See Line B, Column 3. This mesh, made with the support of pins is, in the hands of an amateur at least, much more regular and pleasing than when pins are not employed. The ground requires four pairs to each stitch. Commencing with the vertical side, one braids twice — thus making a whole-stitch. A pin is then placed and closed by the repetition of the two plaits or whole-stitch. This finishes one vertical side. The other vertical side is made in the same way. After these two are finished, one can begin the two lower oblique sides. One pair should be taken from each braid ■ — the pairs which lie nearer the center. These should each be twisted twice, and should then be brought together in position for forming the next vertical braid. One thus produces a six-sided mesh with two braided and four twisted sides, the latter coming at the top and bottom of the mesh; the plaited edges, at the two sides. rD 118 a— A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -a LINE C, COL. 4, Rose Ground, Scandinavian Ground, Point du Mariage, Gelosia, Tulle Double. Rose Ground is practically the same as the small-meshed Tulle Double, except that the pins are differently arranged so as to make a more open mesh. The pairs are twisted twice and crossed, then pinned, again twisted twice, and crossed to close the pin. A stitch is made between the pairs one and two, and a pin placed at three. Then a stitch is made with the pairs four and five and a pin placed at six, then a stitch is made between the pairs seven and eight, and a pin placed at nine, et cetera. "When one has reached the end of this row, one starts again at the upper right, using the pairs ten and eleven, placing a pin at twelve. Then using ten and twelve, placing a pin at thirteen ; then using three and thirteen, placing a pin at fourteen ; then using three and fourteen, placing a pin at fifteen, et cetera ; leaving one pair hanging after each stitch. Every pin is closed without exception. D= =□ □= RULES FOB MAKING 119 =□ LINE C, COL. 5, Old Buckingham, Fond de Milan. -:?==7r 7; ?flf *;irr ' :•* " :Tr : ri? ?= : ! t s Jfrj ---•"- : ***iv. Each stitch requires four pairs, and none of them should be twisted. One should work from the right to the left all the way across the piece, cloth-stitching each pair as one encounters it, working the cross and the passive pairs in a diagonal line descending towards the left, momentarily considering the pair that comes from the right as a weaver. A pin should be put through the center of each cross. Then one should return in the other direction, weaving the pears that should now be hanging ready. D= =D 120 A LACE GUIDE FOB MAKERS AND COLLECTORS '-Q LINE C, COL. 6, Slavonian Style Virgin Point, "Point a la Vierge" nach Slavischer Art. >. • .0. ; .< O.L&. >■<>.< This form of Virgin Point requires four pairs and two pins to each motif or block. One pin is placed at the center top ; the other at the center bottom. The upper, left-hand ornament should be made with the two pairs that enter at the upper, left-hand ; twisting once, crossing, twisting. The same is repeated at the upper, right-hand corner. Then the two center pairs are taken, one from each ornament, twisted once and crossed. Here a pin is placed and closed by twisting and crossing once. The two pairs, which are now at the left, are twisted and crossed once. The same is done with the two pairs at the right. The same is repeated with the two pairs now at the center, that is, one from each side. Here another pin is placed and closed by twisting and crossing once. The two, lower ornaments, one at the right and one at the left, are now made by twisting, crossing and twisting once. These two lower ornaments serve, of course, as upper ones for squares that are to follow. zD RULES FOB MAKING 0= 121 LINE C, COL. 7, Square-meshed Valenciennes of Courtrai and Menin (braided 3 or SYz times). •••■•r.ttt : *■* See Line A, Column 7 and Line B, Column 7. The Valenciennes of Courtrai and Menin is made in the same way as that of Honfleur, except that the sides are braided three or three and a half times. D= =□ 122 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -D LINE C, COL. 8. Devonshire Brick, Mignonnette. [ <»jC3I]iZ3C*!j» m <•_« 3**^* •••■■a litis!' M-dwf^ahtnUm - aam-»ms-s4m v.'.'.6 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS LINE C, COL. 12, Trude "H" Ground (original) (American). Three pairs enter at the upper left-hand cornex*, and three at the upper right- hand corner. The ground is entirely made of half-stitch : but it is twisted twice outside of every pin to reinforce it. Beginning at the upper left-hand corner, with the left pair as conductor, one weaves through the middle and right-hand pairs, pins, closes, works to the lower left of the little, corner ornament ~jT Then works toward the right again, entering the big square. The upper right- hand ornament is made in just the reverse way, starting thus \ from the right, and working towards the left to meet the weaver of the opposite ornament. They meet at the center top of the large square. Here a pin is placed, each =D RULES FOR MAKING 127 D q LINE C, COL. 12— Continued Trade "H" Ground (original) (American). pair twisted twice, and the pin closed. Each weaver works back towards its own side, through two, pendant pairs and is pinned and closed at its side of the large square. Then the weavers work towards the center bottom ; meet and go out into the two little square ornaments: the right-hand weaver now becoming the upper left of the succeeding, large square and therefore doing what was before done to make the upper left ornament. It leaves the large square, works towards the right is pinned and closed, ] t /"- works towards the left, is again pinned and closed, and proceeds into the next large square. The opposite, corresponding weaver does just the reverse. This ground would not wash well. zD 128 □= A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS LINE C, COL. 13, Point de Tresse with Plain Picots in Side Joints. fca%^g Pour threads are required for each braid. The plaits and joint are made as usual. If the picots are made before the joint, they push up onto the sides of the plaits above the exact intersection. Therefore, they should be made im- mediately after the joint, and the braiding which follows should be full and tight so as to push the picots up into place. These are the ordinary picots, one made to the left with the outside, left-hand thread and one to the right with the outside, right-hand thread. Twist both pairs after finishing the picots. d= =□ □= RULES FOB MAKING 129 =□ LINE C, COL. 14, An Italian Spider with Eye. Wf MM • III. •• "..»• '»» • fit) J, «M« II 3ft2 8WS;r K30 |>s as «bS &F {Hi ^Rtf^H^PW" Ha r/ Four pairs enter about the top of each spider, two acting as outside or en- circling pairs. These two cloth-stitch through each other at the top of the spider, one then working towards the left, the other towards the right. These same pairs meet again at the bottom of the spider, linen-stitching through each other to finish it. The other two pairs that enter just below the top, one coming from the upper left, one from the upper right, cloth-stitched through the outlining pairs and meeting each other just inside of them, linen-stitch through each other and then pass out of the spider again in the same manner as they entered. Two other pairs do likewise in the lower part of the spider's body just before the encicrcling pairs re-meet, thus forming two small crosses inside of the spider, one at its upper, one at its lower end, leaving a hole or eye in its center. The spider should not be made too long, and its body should be supported at each end by a pin. There is no twisting inside of the spider-body, nor are its edges twisted. But outside, every pair is twisted twice before intersecting every other pair that it meets ; and it traverses all of these by linen-stitching. =•□ 130 □== A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS LINE C, COL. 15, Thin Cluny Petals, Leaves, Armelle, Armeletta, Grains, Seeds, Wheat Ears, Paddles. These petals are made like those of Line B, Col. 15, except that they are at- tenuated in form. -o RULES FOR MAKING 131 =□ LINE C, COL. 16, Abruzzian Lescatelle. This is the same as line B, Col. 16, or Abruzzian Cross Pattern, except that it requires six pairs to make each spicier, and that between spiders the three pairs leaving an upper left-hand spider cross diagonally through the three pairs of threads leaving the next nearest right-hand spider. □= =Q 132 A LACE GUIDE FOR. MAKERS AND COLLECTORS LINE C, COL. 17, Trude "P" Ground (original) (American). The pairs are twisted four times and crossed and one must be careful to take up the correct pairs. The pins are not closed. On one horizontal line a pair works across towards the right, twisting four times and crossing as it goes. "When it returns, it weaves from the right towards the left. This reverse action tilts the circles slightly first to one side, then to the other. The horizontal pair always works with the very next hanging pair it encounters. Between the hori- zontal lines, wherever two pendant pairs meet each other, they are interwoven with the same four-twist-and-ci - oss stitch. =D RULES FOR MAKING □- 133 =□ LINE C, COL. 18, Genoese Grilled Six-leaved Marguerite. Each leaf or petale requires four pairs. Every pair is twisted once between intersections. One pair serves as a weaver and is fastened Winkie Pin fashion — that is, outside the leaf around a pin, the same pair continuing as weaver. There are three pins on each side of every leaf. After the last passage or inter- weaving of the conductor nearest the center of the "Marguerite," each pair including the weaver, is twisted once ready to make the "Marguerite" or daisy center. Here, if two leaves intersect, they do so like two Cluny braids, two pairs used as one single thread. If three intersect, the two top diagonal ones cloth-stitch like two Cluny braids, and a pin is placed ; then the third horizontal leaf, cloth-stitches through these upper two, each two upper pairs being used as one single thread. The pin is now removed and replaced below the triple intersection, and is closed by again cloth-stitching the eight diagonal pairs, using two pairs as one thread. □= -□ 134 A LACE GUIDE FOB MAKERS AND COLLECTORS OF Z Q LINE D, COL. 1, Twisted Hole Ground, Tulle Double, Maglia di Spagna. This net is easy, strong and dainty. Is made by twisting twice and crossing, placing a pin, and twisting twice and crossing to close it. =□ □= RULES FOR MAKING 135 LINE D, COL. 2, Flemish, Trolle Kant, Fond Armure, Spinnekop. One of these meshes requires six pairs like the six legs of a spider, two at the left, two at the top, and two at the right. The body is made by means of half-stitch. A pin should be placed at the top and the bottom of each spider between the central legs. One begins below the top pin by making a half-stitch. Then the right-hand leg traverses with a half-stitch all the right-hand pairs, and the other leg all the left-hand pairs. Then one returns to the two central pairs making another half-stitch, and again traversing for the second time all the right-hand and all the left-hand pairs. One then returns to the center and does this a third time. Then to finish the body one half -stitches with the two pairs now at the center and places a pin below them. Now one uncrosses the two legs at the left and the two at the right, which should be twisted only and not crossed between one spider and the following one. Only the central legs begin and end with a full half-stitch. □= 136 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS LINE D, COL. 3, Droschel de Bruxelles, Drochel. ••iiim.iiiW-iJ The principle of this mesh is the same as that described under Lines B and C, Column 3 ; except that at the top and bottom there is only one twist, and that the sides are twisted and crossed six times. This is not the usual Drochel de Bruxelles. □= =□ D- RULES FOB MAKING 137 =Q LINE D, COL. 4, A Flemish Filling', a Lille Mode. :^Pl&fllS^ KiPJiw^S * iSHi^s %*7< &31 r^ This is made in almost the same way as Line C, Col. 4, ' ' Rose Ground, Scan- dinavian Ground, Point du Manage, Gelosia, Tulle Double," except that the pins are so arranged as to make the mesh more circular, less elliptical ; and that the pairs are twisted three times before each crossing instead of being twisted only twice. 138 Q= A LACE GUIDE FOB MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -D LINE D, COL. 5, Plain Lattice Ground, Filet, Einfacher Gittergrund. ess; m l's;:S« I $®iii*e£ •I::! W :•':'< Ml «i ::■ --■:: Every pair is twisted three times between intersections. The joints are made by linen-stitching. A pin should be placed in the center of each joint and left there until the corresponding joint on the line below is ready to be pinned. The upper pin should then be removed in order to prevent leaving a hole; but it is necessary to use pins in order to preserve the alignment of the threads, which must be pulled well into place. n- =□ RVLES FOR MAKING □= 139 LINE D, COL. 6, Ornamental Ground with Striped Effect in Diagonal Squares, mit Streifen-Musterung in Karo-Einteilung. Ziergrund The two pairs entering the upper, left-hand ornament are twisted once, crossed and twisted once. The two pairs entering the upper, right-hand orna- ment are treated in the same way. The two pairs now at the center, one from the left and one from the right, are twisted once and crossed. Here at the center top a pin is placed and closed by twisting once and crossing. The pairs lying upon the pillow may now be considered in their order from left to right as first, second, third and fourth. The third and fourth pairs are twisted once and crossed. A pin is placed at the center right and closed by twisting and crossing. Then the third and second pairs are twisted and crossed without pinning. Then the second and first pairs are twisted once and crossed; a pin is placed at the center left and closed. Then the second and third pairs are twisted once and crossed ; a pin is placed at the center bottom and closed, and one is ready to make the lower ornaments as they were made above. □= =□ 140 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS D= =D LINE D, COL. 7, Square-meshed Valenciennes of Bruges, Ypres and Alost (braided 4 or 4Vss times). •:■ -■ ■■■• . ---j.7-".V.- :.;:.'.i:. - jr_'. !,:_:.:.- See Line A, Column 7, Line B, Column 7 and Line C, Column 7. The square-meshed Valenciennes of Bruges, Ypres and Alost is made in the same way as that of Honfleur, except that the sides of the meshes are braided four or four and a half times instead of one or one and a half times. This " Val" ground is more open and clear than the three mentioned above, throwing any pattern worked upon it into greater contrast and distinction. Tbe mesh described under Line E, Column 7 forms an even clearer background. D= J3 RULES FOR MAKING 141 LINE D, COL. 8, Devonshire Taunton 1 1 S-: After making the leaf-shaped outwork, a pin should be placed to support it and the pairs twisted three times. They each cloth-stitch, and are twisted three times, one going to the left and one to the right, where they meet pairs coming from other petals, through which they linen-stitch. Pins are here placed, the pairs twisted three times ; the pins closed ; the pairs again twisted three times. Each pair now travels back to its own original line of vertical petals. At the top of the leaf, its two pairs meet and cloth-stitch. The joint is supported by a pin ; the pairs are twisted three times and are ready to begin a new leaf. =□ 142 Q= A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -P LINE D, COL. 9, Trude "C" Ground (original) (American). Three pins are placed, one directly above the other, through the centers of the squares, and one pin to each side. The first three support three small crosses; the fourth and fifth, that is, the two to the side, support large crosses. Beginning directly above the top center pin ; that is, the uppermost of the three, the pairs are twisted twice and crossed; a pin is placed. The pairs are then twisted once and crossed; a second pin is placed and the pairs are twisted twice. Crossings are then made with the pairs at each side ; pins are placed under these long crossings to support them, and one is now ready to twist twice and begin over, the third pin at the bottom and the first pin at the top of a motif being the same. D= =□ RULES FOB MAKING 143 =□ LINE D, COL. 10, "Bohemian Edged" Devonshire Bars and Cutworks. :\: :/ :\ ■ / : \ :■/ :\ ■/ \ / :\ \/\ •A \ ■/ !:\ is±/z \- /- V si /:• V /; ^: /5 \: /: \- '/% V; /'■ Six pairs are required for each bar, and two couples for each band or zig- zag of cutworks. The center or solid part of the bars is made by linen-stitching. At their edges the weaver is twisted twice, cloth-stitched through the outside or edge, pendant pair, which has already been twisted twice, and hung outside of the pin : the former, pendant pair turning inwards and becoming the new weaver, is twisted twice before it enters the solid part of the braid. The leaves or petals are made in the usual way. At the point where they touch the braid, the leaf pair next to it, cloth-stitches in and out of the braid, a pin being placed in the center of the stitch to hold both the braid weaver and the leaf. =□ 144 □= A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS LINE D, COL. 11, Tulle Double or Redina Point de Paris Variation. VV V -.. § 5 ■ x v V v * *X*X* All the threads should be twisted twice between stitches. Where the diagonal threads meet after having been twisted twice, the two inner ones should be crossed, a pin placed, the pairs twisted twice, closed by crossing, and again twisted twice, ready to cloth-stitch through the horizontal threads, which should also be twisted twice. =D n= RULES FOE MAKING 145 LINE D, COL. 12, Torchon, Russian or German. This is a scrawny-looking ground, which does not wash well. The ground is entirely made of half-stitches. Three pairs enter at the upper left and three at the upper right. Pins are placed at the top, bottom and two sides of the large shaded square, and at each corner of the small squares. The part of the pattern that is worked over the little square — at the upper left- hand corner of the big, shaded square — is begun by weaving from the left towards the right through the middle and right-hand pairs, placing a pin and closing it, returning towards the left through the same pairs to the lower left- hand corner of the little ornamental square, around a pin there which is closed, towards the right to the top center of the big, shaded square. Another ornament is made in the same way reversed at the upper right of the big, shaded square. Thus one weaver from each side meets and crosses at the top of the big dark 146 A LACE GUIDE FOB MAKERS AND COLLECTORS a c LINE D, COL. 12— Continued Torchon, Russian or German. square. Here a pin is placed and closed. After passing this pin, one weaver hangs at the left, the other goes to the right, half -stitching through the remaining pairs until it reaches the right-hand center pinhole, which is closed. One now works through the pairs hanging at the left, straight across to the left hand center where a pin is placed and closed. Then one works back towards the right to the center pin at the base of the large, shaded square. The pairs are now ready to make the little ornaments, which, though they are below the particular large, dark square upon which one has been working, are above large squares which are to follow ; so that from here on the rule duplicates. See Line C, Column 12. D =D RULES FOR MAKING 147 LINE D, COL. 13, Point de Tresse with Plain, Side Picots. -.:■■ These braids are made iu the usual way, aud of course must not be made too long. The picots are made in the ordinary way ; that is, by using the right- most thread for making the right-hand picot, placing a pin under the thread with the point downwards towards the left, raising the point downwards towards the right over the thread, and sticking the pin into the indicated dot on the pricking. To prevent a gap in the braid, one should make the picot immediately after twisting, and should recommence the tress by twisting, pulling the threads up tight. The picot on the left of the braid is made by using the leftmost thread, holding the pin in the left hand, placing its point downwards towards the right under the thread, bringing it downwards, up over the thread, towards the left and into the indicated pinhole. "When interweaving the braids through each other, one should make a cloth- stitch, using two bobbins as though they were one, and supporting the joint by a pin. =D 148 Q= A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -a LINE D, COL. 14, An Italian Filet with Toile Dots. •^'•••••••222!22£S- E ! !?f**»***2» i «22i22tf;i ;^2fS22*«« fl *»2ii X. x: XI ±_ jj N Four pairs enter at the top of the dot and the weaver traverses it in cloth- stitch twice from the right and twice from the left alternately, working all the way from one side of the lace to the other through both twisted grille and linen- stitch dots. Each pair should be twisted once in making the grille. Pins are used only at the encountering edges as supports, or to guide one so as to avoid confusion. They should be placed in the middle of the cloth-stitch — that is, one thread above, one below, and one each side of the pin. D= =D o= RULES FOR MAKING 149 LINE D, COL. 15, Double Picots. These cannot be made on both sides of a braid at the same spot, as that would leave an ugly hole in the plait, so one must make all the picots either towards the upper or towards the lower side of the tress. In this sample they are made downwards, towards the lower side. The pins holding the picots should be pricked right into the line of the braid, not to one side, as that would pull the plait to one side, out of plumb. Two of the braid threads are used for making the picots — the two that fall conveniently towards the lower side. The right-hand thread is wrapped first under, then over the pin; the left-hand one first over, then under the pin. The pin can be placed in the hole, and first one thread, then the other wrapped around it. □= -□ 150 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -a LINE D, COL. 16, Abruzzian Piscitelli. Two pairs make the long, vertical spider or fish (as the name indicates) bodj', which is not twisted except at the two ends. It is made of cloth-stitches like a spider, but is not pulled up around a central pin as is that animal. The weaver or horizontal pair cloth-stitches all the way across the lace in one direc- tion, returning in the other, passing four times altogether through the bodies of each parallel band of fish. The fish come directly below one another. The working pair is twisted once between fish, but is not twisted while passing through their bodies. At the top and bottom of the band, above and between the passings of the weavers, at the beads and tails of the fish, the two fish pairs are each twisted once, cloth-stitched through each other and again twisted once, in readiness to enter and form the fish directly below. It is well to hold these bodies in line by supporting the cloth-stitches above the fish by pins, which are not, however, closed, but which should be removed when the next crossing is made, so that the threads may be pulled up tight, leaving no conspicuous open- ings. a= =□ □= RULES FOR MAKING 151 =□ LINE D, COL. 17, Trude "Q" Ground (original) (American). Each pair is twisted twice between outworks. Pins are used only for sup- port. The horizontal line which traverses the ground between the outworks — - that is, the one touching the point d 'esprit diamonds at their lower and upper tips— is cloth-stitched with the pair, which in the cutwork just finished was the weaving thread and its mate, thus securing the weaver ; but is only laid between the two threads of the pendant or scaffold pair, in order to keep the joint as small as possible. At the foot of each open diamond, the two hanging pairs cloth-stitch through each other before meeting the horizontal pair. The cutwork weaver should be left unmistakably longer than the other threads for at least several stitches after the lerdwork is finished, or it may be inadvertently pulled and ruin a point d 'esprit made some way back. o= =□ 152 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS a — ~ LINE D, COL. 17— Continued Trade "Q" Ground (original) (American). Pour threads are required for each cutwork. In starting at the top of a solid diamond, one proceeds in the usual way to make a triangular or fan-shaped point d 'esprit. See Line A, Column 15. When the center side is reached, how- ever, one exchanges the two left scaffolding threads for the two outside ones — which have first been twisted twice — that are found hanging directly to the left. A pin is placed between the two pairs to support their linen-stitch joint, and the two outgoing pairs are twisted twice to help keep the formation firm. At the center of the right side of the solid diamond, the weaving thread and its mate should be twisted once before cloth-stitching to avoid showing a long, loose thread. This pair is then exchanged hy linen-stitching through its right-hand neighbor from the outside, and a pin is placed beneath the stitch. When making the exchange at the center of the sides, the two left-hand threads of the cutwork must be woven and secured before the two right-hand threads, laying the weaver meanwhile across some pins above, and taking it down only when' ready to exchange it. The two new pairs now entering at the right side, now make the lower half or triangle of the diamond. Here at the bottom of the solid fomi, one can pull and wind all the bobbins evenly ; not so at the sides. After working the weaving pair through the bottom of an open diamond to the right of its former position, the threads should be very gingerly pulled into a smooth twist, not touching or coaxing the weaver until the other threads are right, then using this pair again as the weaver for the next cutwork below at the right. a - □ RULES FOB MAKING OF 153 LINE D, COL. 18, Trude "S" Ground (original) (American). :''-*s*t*tiiih-&:: %&\ Each of these star formations consists of six equilateral triangular points d'esprits or outworks, which are held in place by a pair of twisted, horizontal threads that pass first to one side, then back to the other along and between the horizontal tops and bases of these outworks, never through their apeces. The horizontal pair is twisted three times between intersections or encounters, and cloth-stitches through the points d'esprits pairs. Under the horizontal, twisted pair and between the left-hand pendant threads of the cutwork at its broad base, a pin is temporarily placed. Another one is put inside but not between the two right-hand threads. After the three scaffolding threads have been pulled into place, any loop or irregularity left by the weaver should be carefully drawn out. =□ 154 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS g - q LINE D, COL. 18— Continued Trade "S" Ground (original) (American). In finishing a cutwork, whether at its bottom or at its apex, the weaver and its mate should be tied once with a granny knot; first, to prevent slipping, and second, to make the point sharp and small. Keep the weaving thread long to distinguish it and to avoid accidental pulling. Pins must be used between the upper and lower apeces, where they meet, to hold the upper triangle until the one just below is made. The three framework threads should then be pulled until the pin hole is closed. It may be found helpful to lay the weaver across two pins up out of the way of the work until one is again ready to use it. □ =a RULES FOB MAKING 155 LINE E, COL. 1, Tulle de Dieppe. ..'.V m This net is obtained by twisting the pairs three times, crossing, placing a pin and closing it by crossing. It is made on the oblique. □= =□ 156 □= A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS z o LINE E, COL. 2, Petits Pois de Dieppe t&m. £ 4k i tsi These spiders are made in the usual way ; see Line IT, Column 2 ; the two center top pairs, however, are twisted three times and then cloth-stitch, having a pin placed above the joint before entering the spider. At the bottom of the spider the two center pairs, after making the joint, have a pin placed directly below. Thus there are two pins between spiders vertically above each other. The side spider legs are also twisted three times. C\- =□ □= RULES FOB MAKING 157 LINE E, COL. 3, Tulle (Bruges?) (2 twists). This niesk is formed by twisting two bobbins twice on each side of it, crossing their central pairs, placing a pin beneath the cross to support it, and again twisting the pair now at the right-hand and the pair now at the left-hand, twice each to begin a new mesh. a. 158 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS ■-u LINE E, COL. 4, Plain Torchon Spiders. Each spider requires six pairs. In this sample each pair has been twisted three times between spiders. Pins are used in the center of the spider bodies only. These centers should be raised to give an arched effect. This is done after the first half of the spider body is woven, by holding the pairs nearest the pin up high and tight against it while closing it, closing the other, outer pairs lower down and close to the pricking, and pulling the outer pairs up tight, so that the inner ones cannot sink down into them. The spider is made by cloth-stitching the three left-hand pairs in consecutive order through the three right-hand pairs, putting up a pin, and closing it by cloth-stitching all the pairs through each other in the reverse direction. The three legs that came in at the upper right of the spider go out at the lower right and form the three upper left-hand legs of another spider. =0 a- RULES FOB MAKING 159 =□ LINE E, COL. 5, Buratto, Filet. llllii! mini Sliiiil lilliil I«Ii Sliiiil This ground has been much used as a network upon which to embroider. It is usually woven, but directions are here given for making it with bobbins on a lace pillow, should one wish to. The vertical pairs are twisted three times between intersections. The single horizontal thread is simply laid between them at regular distances and sup- ported, at least at every other crossing, by pins, which keep the whole from pulling out of alignment. These pins should not be left in long or they will spread the twisted threads, leaving holes behind. 1G0 □= A LACE GUIDE FOE MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -LJ LINE E, COL. 6, Ornamental Ground with Zigzag Diagonal Stripes, Ziergrund mit Streifen-Musterung in Zacken-Einteilung. This Virgin Point is made fundamentally the same as the Ornamental Ground with Striped Effect in Diagonal Squares, Line D. Column 6, only the two pairs leaving the bottom of the square or block instead of intersecting each other, are separated. The upper pair, working upwards to join by a half -stitch the lower pair of the block above; and the lower pair, intersecting by means of a half-point, the uppermost pair of the square below. Thus the block is pulled apart into a zigzag. It is best to make the squares as one works down- wards from right to left, and then make the ornaments as one reascends from left to right. At the edges, where certain pairs are lacking, the stitches should be made as much as possible like the others, proceeding in the same way. □= =□ RULES FOB MAKING □= 161 LINE E, COL. 7, Square-meshed Valenciennes of Alost and Ypres (braided 5 or 5Yz times). See Column 7, Lines A. B, C and D. The mesh of Alost and Ypres is made in the same way as those described above, except that the sides of the mesh are braided five or five and a half times, producing a peculiarly distinctive and clear-cut ground. d= 162 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -a LINE E, COL. 8, Devonshire Second Swing Filling. *«*. :.'« "V This stitch is apt to look slovenly unless it is carefully made. After a eutwork has been finished, a pair from the left, twisted three times, cloth-stitches through the lower, left-hand pair of the eutwork, also twisted three times; the pairs are again twisted three times; a pin is placed and closed by linen-stitching. Here the pairs are once more twisted three times. The left-hand pair enters the lower eutwork; the right-hand pair works towards a new circle on the lower right. This filling is made from the upper left to the lower right : first a whole row of outworks, then a whole row of circles, et cetera, alternately. No pins are used for the outworks themselves, but only in the circles. The eutwork weaver enters at its upper left and leaves at the lower right. a. =D D= RULES FOB MAKING 163 =□ LINE E, COL. 9, Devonshire Honeycomb Filling. Fifteen pairs were used to make this sample. Each pair is twisted between crossings and each crossing is supported by a pin, but not closed. The pricking is made on the square, not on the diagonal. Two pairs are crossed at the upper right-hand corner and a pin is placed below. Then the top of the large opening is made by crossing, and here another pin is placed. Then the small space to the left of the large opening is made by crossing. In this way one works all the way across from the right to the left of the lace ; then recommencing at the right, one makes a row of little crosses at the center sides of the small squares on the pricking. The large, long crossing at the right must always be made before the almost parallel one at the left is started. The long crossings come at the center top and bottom of the squares on the pricking. 164 a— A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS =0 LINE E, COL. 10, Binche Mode. §i & §* & ?«e it &t «? *m x: : : : . . •X- ■ • : : : :*: : : : : : : : x Six vertical threads and a weaving pair are required for each bar, one to the right and one to the left of the zig-zag, and one pair is needed for the zig-zag itself; the braid part of which is made in conjunction with a borrowed worker, which the zigzag transfers to the bar opposite the one from which it was borrowed: borrowing a new worker from the second bar, et cetera. After exchanging weavers, one should make two pins' length only of the vertical, cloth band before beginning a zig-zag braid, as this furnishes a firm foundation against which to pull. The conductors are twisted twice around the winkie pins at the P= RULES FOR MAKING 165 3 =U LINE E, COL. 10— Continued Binche Mode. side of the upright bars ; also before and after crossing in and out of the zig-zags. The zig-zag makes three braid stitches with its newly borrowed weaver. Though this stitch is simple, it is confusing, so the bar should not be com- pleted more than two pin holes ahead of any of the rest of the work. The uppermost conductors must be exchanged and braided in before the next lower pin hole of the opposite cloth bar can be worked. The zig-zag spine always hangs between the bars, and two weavers cannot enter two, opposite, cloth bands at the same time. The zig-zag pair itself must not be used by mistake for a weaver, although the braid pair nearest the bar is always used as the exit conductor. One must be sure to twist both pairs twice before uniting a new weaver and the spine. n • . , n 166 □= A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -a LINE E, COL. 11. Point de Paris Variation with Tressed Sides. *9M9Mim Hh'i I ■Hi- The sides of the four vertical pairs should he braided four times; the diagonals twisted twice below the horizontal line and twice above it. The weaver or horizontal pair is twisted twice between stitches, aud linen-stitches through the diagonals. D: =;□ □= RULES FOR MAKING 167 =□ LINE E, COL. 12, Torchon. This requires the entrance of five pairs at each upper side of the small, solid junction-square formed by the crossing of the oblique bands of the design. Half -stitch should be used, and the weaver must not be confused, as using the wrong pair leaves an ugly hole. The two weavers, one from the left and one from the right, meet at "1," the topmost, central, point of the small, solid, diagonal junction-square. The right weaver closes the pin, returns towards the right and continues as general weaver, going from points 1 to 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6, where it closes with the third pair, which again becomes a worker, each weaver continuing in its own direction; "4" and "5" are the only pin holes in the big, outer, open square that do not connect with something. They are above the ft zD 166 □= A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS --u LINE E, COL. 12— Continued Torchon. lower, central point of the solid junction-square that is formed by the crossing of the diagonal bands of the design. The ornament in the center of the large, open square is formed by dropping a pair out of the oblique bands after closing each pin, two coming out of each upper side and re-entering the lower sides of the big square after having made the ornament. The ornament requires five pins, closed by half-stitches, each pair twisted twice between pins, but not in closing. a= □- RULES FOB MAKING 169 LINE E, COL. 13, Point de Tresse with Knotted Picots. One should use the right hand for the right-hand edge, placing a pin to the left under the rightmost thread of the plait, over the thread to the left of it, drawing the left-hand thread towards the right, under the right-hand thread, pointing the pin downwards and up over the right-hand thread, drawing this latter up under the left-hand thread, through the long loop formed between the two original hanging threads, bringing the pin out with this right-hand thread and placing it in its pricked hole. The bobbins now cross. One should now cross the right-hand one of the next pair on the left over the left-hand one of the picot pair. For the left-hand one does the same reversed, with the left hand, but in finishing one should cross the left-hand bobbin over the right and the same one on over the left-hand one of the next interior pair. □= 170 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS a — = LINE E, COL. 13— Continued Point de Tresse with Knotted Picots. Another rule is, just to twist and cross after making the left and right picots the same as for an ordinary one, and to twist before making a picot. The author prefers this method. When interweaving the braids through each other, one should make a cloth- stitch, using two bobbins as though they were one and supporting the joint by a pin. CF RULES FOR MAKING 171 =□ LINE E, COL. 14, Italian Spiders with 4 Twisted, Horizontal Bars. The wavy, upright lines of the spider are made of four pairs, untwisted in the spider-body itself, though each pair is twisted once between intersections in the open part of the pattern. All the joints are linen-stitched. The two pairs coming from the upper left cloth-stitch in consecutive order through those coming from the right, and a pin is placed to support the upper apex of the spider. Then the horizontal pairs weave through the body, and the spider is closed by repeating in the reverse direction the process just outlined for beginning it. The base of each spider is supported by a pin, and the horizontal pairs are also supported by pins where they cross in the center of the spider. Through the body proper run four horizontal bands or pairs. These are twisted once between spiders and once in the open center of the spider, forming a river or n= 172 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS- AND COLLECTORS - --•■■-- -Q a LINE E, COL. 14— Continued Italian Spiders with 4 Twisted, Horizontal Bars. open eye. They are not, however, twisted as they weave through the upright, wavy pairs. The open part of the pattern between upper and lower rows of spiders is formed by each of the lower right-hand legs of an upper left-hand spider being twisted once and linen-stitched in consecutive order through the lower left-hand legs of an upper right-hand spider, which should also have been twisted once. But one must not forget to twist those legs again after they have completed one linen-stitch and before they begin another, so that each side of the little square is twisted once. After this square is completed, each leg is twisted once before beginning new spiders. RULES FOR MAKING 173 =□ LINE E, COL. 15, Marguerites a Six Petales (one sided joint). No. 1 Each leaf is made of four threads ; — six radiating leaves making one ' ' Mar- guerite. " These may be supported by pins here and there at the end of one petal and before commencing the next or wherever else it is found convenient. These six-leaf joints are necessarily one-sided. The two upper petals being finished, cloth-stitch through each other, each pair being used as a single thread. Here, if the horizontal petal comes from the left, it cloth-stitches through the left-hand four threads which come from the right-hand upper petal. Then a pin is placed. The four horizontal threads now cross-stitch again through the same four threads they intersected before, which closes the pin. The horizontal pairs now form the left-hand lower leaf. The other two pairs which come from the right-hand upper leaf, linen-stitch through the remaining two pairs which come from the upper left-hand leaf and which now form the lower right-hand leaf. "When the horizontal leaf comes from the right-hand side, the method of procedure is exactly reversed, as shown in this diagram. The centers of these daisies should be raised by holding the pairs next the pin higher than the outer ones and by pulling these latter tighter than the inside ones. d= 174 .1 LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS a= -u LINE E, COL. 16, Trude "K." Ground (original) (American). This ground is similar to those illustrated and explained under Column 16, Line D ; Column 16, Line G ; and Column 16, Line F. The working pair cloth- stitches all the way through each band of fish from the right to the left, then back, making four trips altogether. The workers are twisted once between bodies, as are also the oblique, passive pairs between linen-stitches: but the weavers are not twisted in passing through the actual fish. Not counting the heads and tails of the fish, the oblique pairs cloth-stitch through each other once between fish, forming one open square below the tail of one fish and the head of another. The fish are placed directly below one another. Where the diagonal pairs meet to form a fish — that is, at their heads — they linen-stitch and are twisted once, the stitch being supported by a pin. The same procedure reversed is used to form the tails; that is, the pairs are twisted, a pin is placed and a linen-stitch made. =Q D= RULES FOR MAKING 175 =□ LINE E, COL. 17, ? Each line on this sample represents two threads. In the long spaces, they are twisted four times: in the short spaces, once. The joints are made by cloth- stitching. A pin is placed in the center of each joint to keep the lines straight : but is taken out and used again in the next lower line as soon as that is made, to prevent pin gaps. All threads should be pulled taut. 176 a= A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -a LINE E, COL. 18, Marguerites a Centre de Toile. Four threads are required for each leaf, and four leaves enter each "Mar- guerite" or daisy at the top, two at the left and two at the right. After making the long, slim petals, the eight left-hand threads cloth-stiteh through the eight right-hand threads, forming a small square placed on the diagonal. The four threads making their exit at the lower right-hand side of the square become the two lower right-hand leaves of this particular linen square, and at the same time the two upper left-hand leaves of the square obliquely below. The remain- ing eight threads are woven into two lower left-hand petals, becoming in turn the upper right-hand petals of a square diagonally below. Pins should be placed at the lower ends of the leaves to keep them from unravelling until the little square dots are finished. However, when these pins are removed, all holes and loops must be carefully pulled out before new petals are commenced. A sup- porting pin should be placed below the lower corner of the square to hold it in place. None of these pins are closed. □= RULES FOR MAKING 177 LINE F, COL. 1, Redina, Maglia di Spagna. This net is obtained by twisting three times and crossing, placing a pin, twisting twice only and crossing to close. This mesh is made diagonally, and is similar in effect and strength to Tulle Double, though slightly more open. D= zD 178 □= A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -P LINE F, COL. 2, Les Mille Pattes. mm ■ * • • This is a series of spiders made with four pairs of bobbins, each pair twisted three times. The pairs coming from the upper left linen-stitch in consecutive order through those coming from the upper right. A pin is placed and closed by repeating this process in the reverse direction: so that the upper left-hand legs of the spider are also its lower left-hand legs, becoming the upper right- hand legs of a new spider on a lower line. To raise the centers of the spiders one should hold the innermost pairs of the joint somewhat up in the air against the center pin, pulling the outer pairs especially tight in closing them, so that the inner pairs cannot sink down into them. See Line E, Columns 4 and 2. 0= =□ RULES FOR MAKING 179 Q= =Q LINE F, COL. 3, Tulle Ground, Lille, Filoche, Fond Clair, Fond Simple, Point de Brabant, Trolly Net, Tondern, Arras, Marche, Point de Hollande, Dutsche Slag. B^gfdHfe-;^'; See Line E, Column 3. This ground is made by twisting the sides of the meshes three times each ; then crossing the inner thread of each pair, placing a pin beneath this joint to support it, and again twisting three times the pairs formed at the right and left. □= =D 180 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -o LINE F, COL. 4, Potten Kant, Flemish, Antwerp. This ground requires four pairs to each mesh, two entering at the left and two at the right, and two correspondingly leaving at the lower left and two at the lower right. The two upper left-hand ones cloth-stitch through each other before entering the main square of the design : but those at the right have already linen-stitched in finishing the preceding square. The conductor or weaver comes from the right-hand, cloth-stitching through the two left-hand pairs. A pin is placed here at the left of the middle of the side of the solid square. The weaver should be twisted once around the pin and cloth-stitch back through the two pairs that came from the left ; but in addition, through the one waiting at the right. Another pin is placed at the right of the square opposite the first pin. The conductor is twisted, returns towards the left with- out pinning and finishes the square. Each square requires two pins directly opposite each other, causing the weaver to run a little uphill in returning from the left toward the right. The solid squares follow each other diagonally, the workers always travelling from the right towards the left, and one pair always working from the left towards the right, cloth-stitching through the vertical pair at the beginning of each solid square. -D RULES FOE MAKING 181 LINE F, COL. 5, Un Forsd Hollaitdais, Filet. WB%^8§& WMsmimmmM^ This filet was made with seven, hanging pairs and a working pair. Bach pair is twisted twice between joints. The joints are made by cloth-stitching. Pins are placed under the joints to keep them in place; but an upper line of pins is removed as soon as a lower line is reached in order that no gaping holes may be left. =□ 182 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS LINE F, COL. 6, Lccherschlag. This plain, but pretty ground, is procured by twisting once, crossing, pinning, twisting twice, and then crossing to close. It is made on the oblique. □= □= RULES FOR MAKING 183 =□ LINE F, COL. 7, Valenciennes Mixte. The making of this ground is similar to that of the square-meshed "Vals": see Line A, Column 7. After the braided sides have been made, one should weave the linen-stitch as in the square-meshed "Val," not twisting these two pairs before cloth-stitching; but twisting them both once after the linen-stitch is made, before beginning the new braid. The outside, or pendent pairs, are twisted once as in the square-meshed Valenciennes. D= zO 184 A LACE GUIDE FOB MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -a LINE F, COL. 8, Devonshire Swing Filling, Spot Stitch, and no Pin. As A. Penderel Moody says, "Either name refers to the working of the stitch, no pins are necessary, and the same worker is swung from each cutwork to the one below." Although Moody's book on "Devon Pillow Lace" suggests making this stitch from the right to the left, it seems perfectly easy to follow the general rule of making it from the left to the right, except, perhaps, in some peculiarly formed space. The weaver would then always come between the lower right of an upper cutwork and the upper left of a lower cutwork. In working from the left, the two left-hand or skeleton threads of a cutwork are secured with the following stitch below or to the left of it in order to give a firm foundation against which to pull, for one cannot pull the weaver of a working pair without misshaping the cutwork. This is, perhaps, what Penderel Moody means by working from the right to the left, as the work would progress in a diagonal line slanting that way. The weaver itself should always be left long to distinguish it, and the same one should be used in each successive cut- work to avoid ever pulling it unduly. The pairs should be twisted three times between points d 'esprit. □= RULES FOE MAKING □= 185 LINE F, COL. 9, A Lille Jour. This is made on the basis of Point du Mariage, but each second motif alternates and is cloth-stitched. The pricking is on the diagonal. At the bottom of the Point du Mariage motif where the solid part begins, the two center pairs linen-stitch; a pin is placed, the pairs are twisted twice and the pin is closed. The weaver then works towards the right, working through the right- hand mariage pair, which should first be twisted twice; here the pairs again cloth-stitch; another pin is placed; the pairs around it are twisted twice and weave towards the left. Here at the left, the pair hanging from out the mariage □= 186 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS a LINE F, COL. 9— Continued A Lille Jour. motif, must also be twisted twice. At the center left and right of the solid motif, the weaver cloth-stitches through the mariage motif at its side ; pins are placed and closed. The worker here in the space between the two motifs, is twisted only once, in order that the solid part may not be pushed back, but remain as wide as possible. At the bottom of the solid motif, the two center pairs cloth-stitch ; a pin is placed : but here one recommences the mariage stitch. Point du Mariage or Tulle Double is described under Line C, Column 4. At the sides where the mariage motif meets the weaver of the solid spot, the mariage pair should be twisted twice before and twice after the intersection. a =Q RULES FOB MAKING 187 =a LINE F, COL. 10, Devonshire Toad-in-the-Hole. The little cutwork toad is guarded by four cloth-stitch walls; each wall requires four pairs, and each cutwork two. This pricking is made on the diagonal. Each cutwork pair is twisted three times; then the cutwork is made and the weaver and its mate are looped together once to avoid unnecessary pullings. The weaver should be left longer than all the other threads, that it may always be distinguished and not inadvertently pulled. In all cutwork fillings, one should work from the left to the right ; then starting again at the left, so as to secure the two left scaffold or foundation threads of the cutwork with the next stitch before weaving the point d 'esprit worker into its succeeding stitch. After the cutwork and the looping are finished, a supporting pin is placed below the leadwork and both cutwork threads are again twisted three times. These lead- works should come exactly in the middle of each square. The cutwork pairs are =□ 138 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS a ' : c LINE F, COL. 10— Continued Devonshire Toad-in-the-Hole. now ready to cloth-stiteli downwards, each couple on its respective side through the four threads on each side that are going to make the wall directly below. This done, the cutwork pairs are again twisted three times and are ready to make new points d 'esprit, the same weaving threads being used throughout from upper row to lower row as workers. Before starting a wall one must cloth-stitch the two upper left-hand pairs and the two upper right-hand pairs; when the right-hand inside couple becomes the weaver, working through the remaining pairs at the left, so that the first pin is placed at the upper left. At the edge of the wall, the workers are twisted three times around the winkie pin and woven back into the wall. "When the last of these wall holes has been reached, the bobbins are again divided into two sets; the two wall pairs at the lower right, after having been intei'sected by the weaver, cloth-stitch through each other and pass towards the right; the weaver and the remaining left-hand pair linen-stitch together towards the left. These two sets are now ready to intersect the descending, diagonal, cutwork pairs. When the wall sets thus divide, they run horizontally. D — □ RULES FOR MAKING 189 —n LINE F, COL. 11, Trude "F" Ground (original) (American). >. . o . < > ■ o ■ < o.-e Each shield in this design is made of four threads; two coming from the left and two from the right. The pins are' placed directly below each other and the pricking is on the square ; that is, vertical and horizontal. The pins are placed above the joint to hold it down. The sides are braided four times and the tops and bottoms are twisted twice, crossed and twisted twice. This mesh loses its shape in washing. D= mo D- A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS =u LINE F, COL. 12, A Fancy Zeccatello. Bach linen-stitch spot is made up of eight threads, and each complete motif requires four linen-stitch spots with an open, twisted cross between. All joints are made by cloth-stitching. A weaver and a pendant pair enter at the top of the linen, left-hand, upper square. Here a pin is placed and closed. Then one weaves towards the left corner of the square, places a pin and closes it. Then to the right-hand lower corner of the same square, where another pin is placed and closed, then to the bottom, where a pin is placed and closed, the threads then entering the square directly below. The upper, right-hand, linen square of the motif is made in the same way, but reversed; that is, a pin is placed first at the top, then at the right-hand corner, then at the left, then at the bottom. The other two pairs, which enter at the tops of these two linen spots, after cloth-stitching through their centers, emerge below, coming towards each other, □= =D RULES FOB MAKING 191 3 - - =n LINE F, COL. 12— Continued A Fancy Zeccatello. ready to intersect and form the open cross in the center of the motif. Each pair is twisted once, cloth-stitched, twisted again, cloth-stitched through the second, opposite pair and again twisted once. In finishing the two lower blocks, one is really starting new ones below to the right and left; the right-hand lower square becoming the left-hand upper square of a succeeding motif. The grill- like, twisted, center threads are now cloth-stitched into the lower blocks to form their bodies. It should be remarked that these squares are not exactly opposite : — the uppermost pair in leaving a higher square, crosses through the grilled center and enters the middle of tbe lower square to the other side: the pair coming from the middle of the upper block crosses and enters at the lower part of the side of the square below. -□ 192 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS a== ===== — === LINE F, COL. 13, Valenciennes Picots. These plaits are braided in the usual manner, and the linen-stitch joints are made as in Lines D and E, Column 13. The right-hand pair is here used to make the picot. It is twisted three times and followed by an ordinary picot as explained under Line B, Column 13. To complete it, one crosses the two threads of the pair, takes the exterior thread alone and places it in the reverse direction over and around the pin. One then twists the pair three times, and having twisted the waiting, unused pair of the braid, recommences plaiting. Q= =D EVLES FOB MAKING 193 LINE F, COL. 14, Italian Open-eyed, Cable-like Spiders. ■"••-•'JSK\W •'!.'■'•& § •'*? Eight threads enter at each side of the top of every spider, cloth-stitching in consecutive order through each other. Each spider is closed in the same way, but reversed, at its base. At the upper left of the spider inside the innermost pair, a pin is placed and then this pair linen-stitches through its mates towards the left. Once outside the spider, this pair is twisted once. Here it meets a corresponding pair — also twisted once — coming in the opposite direction from the spider next to the left. These two now cloth-stitch and the joint is sup- ported by a pin, each pair being twisted once after the joint. These pairs there- fore exchange, each one working towards the opposite spider, linen-stitching through it till it reaches the inside, where in the same way that a Bohemian edge is made, the newly-entered pair becomes the inside spider pair and the former inside spider pair exits around a pin by linen-stitching outwards through the other pairs and doing as was done before, just above. In all, there are three such exchanges on each side of every spider, so that three pins are placed be- tween spiders and three pins on the inside of each side of every spider. □= =D 194 □= A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS LINE F, COL. 15, Demi-Marguerites. v.-.T. • These half-daisies alternate with braids that are ornamented with a pieot on each side of the middle of their long sides. The centers of the marguerites should stand up as has been described elsewhere under Line F, Column 2. Pins are placed at the beginning or end, as it may be, of each petal, at the point where it joins a braid. The horizontal leaves have to be added at either the left or the right, according to which marguerite is ready first or according to one's preference of direction in weaving: have to be added in the air; that is, cloth-stitched through an incoming braid, using two threads of the braid as one thread, before the center of the daisy is made, in order that the new pairs may be well anchored. The centers should be made in this case the same as in an eight-leaved daisy. See Line G, Column 15. =D □= RULES FOE MAKING 195 LINE F, COL. 16, Trade "L" Ground (original) (American). 18ff»fira!a»Sf!ll • - ; k2sL ■•'"•ft :^!?!SrS?J:;<"»: :<•»•"•» *;., ■:- - See Column 16, Line E, and Column 16, Line G. The method of working is similar to that of Trude"K" Ground, but the bodies of the fish are placed alternately below one another instead of directly below each other as in Trude "K" Ground; and instead of the diagonal pairs passing through each other only once — not counting their exits and entrances into fish — they, in this case, cloth-stitch through each other twice between tails and heads; and are twisted once between stitches. The horizontal workers are also twisted once between fish, but not while working through the bodies ; and the fish pairs themselves are twisted once at the head and tail, where pins are placed before finishing each body with a cloth-stitch. 196 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -u LINE F, COL. 17, Dieppe Three-Thread Valenciennes. Each braid requires three threads and should be made by placing the right- hand thread over the center thread ; then the left one over the center one. This should be done three times with each braid between intersections. The joint is made by cloth-stitching the four threads nearest the center, placing a pin below the linen-stitch to support it and avoid confusion. Meanwhile one thread should be left idly dangling each side of the joint. These idle, side threads are again taken up and braided after the joint is finished. The braiding is recommenced in the same way as before, by placing the right thread over the center, then the left one over the center. D= =a RULES FOR MAKING a= 197 — o LINE F, COL. 18. Tulle Double Done on the Square. •IS— A— A— A This ground is made in the same way as that described under Line D, Column 1, except that the pricking is not on the diagonal, and the threads run vertically and horizontally instead of obliquely: the horizontal threads being used as the weavers, working from left to right on one line and from right to left on the succeeding one; in other words, alternately. □= -D 198 0= A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS LINE G, COL. 1, Tulle de Vienne, Genre Valenciennes. Pins are used in this net only to sustain the joints, but are not closed. The two pairs, one from the left and one from the right, are each twisted three times ; then crossed, twisted and crossed to form the joint. RULES FOR MAKING D= 199 LINE G, COL. 2, Round Spiders in Twice-twisted Hole Ground, les Arraignees Rondes. Each of these spiders requires six pairs to form the legs, three at the upper right and three at the upper left. Two more pairs are needed to form the circle around the spider, and another two pairs to form the square around the circle. The spiders themselves are made in the usual way; as, for example, in Line H, Col. 2 ; the legs twisted three times : but the circle around the spider is made, if the pairs have not already been twisted, by twisting them twice and crossing, placing a pin, and crossing to close it. The square outside of the circle is made in the same way. 200 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS =D LINE G, COL. 3, Tulle (5 twists). The principle of this mesh is the same as that described under Lines E and F, Column 3 ; except that the sides are twisted five times, making it appear less even and well-balanced than the ground of Line F, Column 3. n- =n RULES FOR MAKING D= 201 LINE G, COL. 4, Round, Open-eyed, Brabant, Binche Spiders, Oeil de Perdrix, Reseau Rosace, Point de Flandre. Eight pairs are needed to make this very pretty, but somewhat complicated spider. Six pairs for the body proper ; three entering at the upper left, inside of the circle ; and three at the upper right, inside of the circle. At the top of the circle, the inside, or first two pairs which meet, are cloth-stitched through each other, the joints supported by a pin, partly to avoid confusion. These two en- circling pairs then cloth-stitch through the spider legs, being twisted once between stitches. At the bottom of the spider they meet again and once more cloth-stitch through each other, the joint being supported as before by a pin. Each spicier leg is twisted twice. In order to make this body, the prominent part □= =□ 202 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS =□ LINE G, COL. 4— Continued Round, Open-eyed, Brabant, Binche Spiders, Oeil de Perdrix, Reseau Rosace, Point de Flandre. of which is the open eye at the center, so made that it cannot close, because the pairs pull away from each other, some of the pairs have to be split or separated, one thread from its mate. The top, center or first, upper, right-hand pair passes continuously from the top to the bottom of the spider, cloth-stitching through whatever pairs it meets: but keeping to the right of the pin. The second, upper, right-hand leg does likewise; the third, upper, right-hand leg cloth-stitches through whatever pairs it meets; but keeps above the pin and passes from the upper, right-hand side of the spider to the lower, left-hand side of the spider. The first, upper, inside, left-hand leg separates, its left-hand thread lying idle until there is another separate thread to take for its mate, when it cloth-stitches through the pairs it meets, keeping to the left of the pin. Its right-hand thread does likewise, but passes to the right of the pin, around it, below it, and back to its original mate. The second, upper, left-hand pair splits in the same way. In fact, its two threads become respectively the mates of the two preceding threads. After passing around and under the pin, the original pairs rejoin each other. The third, or lowest, left-hand, upper leg does not separate ; but keeps on the underside of the pin, passing from the upper left to the lower right of the spider. In this way, there are six threads to the left of the central pin and six to the right. Each spider leg is twisted twice just inside of the circle, outside of the spider body, as noted above. The pairs outside of the circle are each twisted once and in couples cloth-stitch through each other, making crosses; are again twisted once, and are then ready to pass into another circle. The top and bottom center legs combine with the wheel or circle : the other two legs crossing each other. □= =□ 0= RULES FOB MAKING 203 LINE G, COL. 5, Bohemian Ground. !:::^«*«4«i0fll«fli49«9*'.-;:: :- : : r -^##§a99»« »»e »•»«►:-;-;■- *ftMaaMMfc«)«*ta£:'' : JBfiS**#4M*0'a»a*fci .. aaa9»s»a««9«9»9»;:: : -:*t^atiaaa99§9at9«^v •••!( ::::::::::::::: '.- - 1 1 1 . 1 1 II II I 1 1 This is a very simple filet mesh, every pair being twisted once between joints, the joints being made by linen-stitching, and the horizontal pair being used as weaver, working from left to right on one line and from right to left on the nest lower one. The joints should be supported here and there by pins in order to retain the alignment: but the pins should not be left in long or they will spread the threads and so leave ugly gaps. a= =D 204 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS D= LINE G, COL. 6, Reseau Simple, Analogue a Celui de Lille, d' Arras, de Marche, de Tondern, de Buckingham. HM:?!^ >%H*V^ Two pairs are required to make this stitch arid they should be twisted three times between joints. In making the joint, the left-hand thread of the right-hand pair passes under the right-hand thread of the left-hand pair, com- ing out above it and falling forward and downward, now forming a new left- hand pair. The other joint-thread passes forward and downward towards the right, forming a new right-hand pair. A pin should be placed below this knot to sustain it. This is an exceptional stitch in bobbin lace making, as the passing of the bobbin through the loop really forms a loose knot. a= □= RULES FOE MAKING 205 — D LINE G, COL. 7, Round-meshed Valenciennes (singly twisted joint, centuple braid) (Bruges has triple braid). See Line A, Column 7 and Line F. Column 7. The sides of the meshes in round Valenciennes are made in the same way as those of square or mixed Valenciennes, but the joints are more open and weaker. The sides of this particular ground are braided five times. The joint is made by twisting each of the two inner pairs once after finishing the braid and before cloth-stitching, and twisting once the pair coming towards the left after linen-stitching : but not the pair going towards the right, before beginning the new plait below. The outside hanging pairs should be twisted once between braids. □= =□ 206 □= A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -a LINE G, COL. 8, Devonshire Cutwork Net. Si^^s&giia^i « &M IB ■ m in ■ ni • B • III III". Ill' • IB • III « • Ml • • 'ill'. 'ill' III hi . Ja • • in'- 'm' m' • 'h( •] m' 'ill' • in' This net is much more regular in appearance than Point d 'Esprit Net. It should be worked from the left towards the right in order that the left-hand or foundation pair of the outworks may be pulled into shape and secured with adjoining stitches; as the weaver of the right-hand pair cannot be pulled, but must be left especially long so that it can always be recognized. Any dragging on the part of the weaver would spoil the shape of the point d 'esprit. When the cutwork has reached the desired size, the weaver is passed through a loop made by its mate ; and pulled gently into shape, a pin being placed under the leadwork to support it. The cutwork pairs are now twisted twice and the weaver can be placed carefully aside, temporarily out of the way. The cutwork pairs are now ready to cloth-stitch through the plain net pairs on each side of them. These :plain net pairs are twisted three times between joints and linen-stitched through each other wherever they meet, which is directly above and below the cutwork and to the left and right of it. After passing through the square net, the cutwork pairs are twisted twice before a new leadwork is commenced. RULES FOB MAKING 207 — Q LINE G, COL. 9, Devonshire Wire Ground. The pairs in this case are always twisted four times between joints; the joints are made by cloth-stitching and are supported by pins; but the pins are not closed. □= =□ 208 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -a LINE G, COL. 10, Devonshire Wall Filling. Eight threads are required for each wall. The weaver starts at the upper right, cloth-stitching to the upper left, and is twisted three times around the winkie pin. There are three pin holes to each side of the wall. At the bottom of the wall, after the lowest right-hand pin has been placed, the weaver cloth- stitches again to the left and with the left-hand hanging pair, passes over into the top of the left-hand, lower wall, cloth-stitching once en route through the pair it picked lip. The two, right-hand pairs coming out of the upper wall at its base now cloth-stitch through each other and pass into a lower wall at the right. The weaver for this lower wall is the weaver that came from the wall above it, to its right. =D D= RULES FOB MAKING 209 LINE G, COL. 11, Round-meshed Valenciennes of Harlebeke, Bruges, Courtrai, Bailleul (braided 4 times) (often twice, Denlelle episcopale). . . J'ii i?'i I r 3; J^~jgti % - rt:l&, The sides of this Valenciennes each require four threads and are braided four times. "When the sides are braided only twice, the lace is called Dentelle episcopale. The joints are quite open, giving the effect of a round Val with two little open dots between the larger holes. The vertical, pendant pairs which hang outside of the joint, are each twisted twice between upper and lower braids, and the interior pairs of the braids which cross each other by means of a linen-stitch between braids, are each twisted twice both before and after the cloth-stitch. See Line A, Column 7. □= =□ 210 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS LINE G, COL. 12, Zeccatello. Three pairs twisted twice, enter each solid spot at the upper left ; and three pairs twisted twice, at the upper right. The two central pairs of each of these sets, intersect with a linen-stitch, and after a pin is placed at the top of the little, linen-stitch square, are closed. A similar stitch is made at the bottom of the little square. No pins are used elsewhere. 0= =D RULES FOR MAKING 211 LINE G, COL. 13, Irish Ground. HmSi3f The braids are made in a horizontal zigzag, the downward points held down by pins until a lower line joins and holds them. The braids should not be made too long. When one reaches the second line or lower row, one should pull one pair of the second line bobbins by means of a crochet-hook under and around the downward point of a preceding line ; passing the other pair of the second or lower line into the loop of the two hooked-up threads, pulling the knot thus made well on top of the joint into plain sight. One is then ready to braid again. This ground is supposed to look slightly rough and clumsy, giving to the mesh a rustic appearance. Cfc =D 212 A LACE (HIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -0 LINE G, COL. 14, Italian Spiders with 2 Horizontal Bars. ■■?.-:-.. TTnri:;;:t*\?»ajjfrr;";' This easy ground requires a horizontal weaviug pair and two pairs for each spider. The upper left-hand spider pair cloth-stitches through the upper right- hand spider pair, the joint being supported by a pin. Then the working pair runs from left to right, cloth-stitching through the two spider pairs, being twisted twice between spiders, and immediately returns from right to left through the same spiders in the same way. Bach spider pair is twisted once between spider bodies. The spiders are terminated in the same way that they are begun, only by the reverse process. =□ □= RULES FOR MAKING 213 LINE G, COL. 15, Marguerites Centres a Huit. rs;r5??---?' ; •Hi*. •f.trfl aSBjSjaaaamg JijL This firm, attractive ground is easy to execute — provided one enjoys the making of leaves. Each pair can be considered as one thread or each thread can be worked individually. The two left-hand petals cloth-stitch consecutively through the top and upper right-hand petals. Here a pin is placed and closed, the center being arched in the way described under Line E, Column 4. Should one prefer, one can work from right to left instead of from left to right : the idea in either case being to linen-stitch the two, upper petals through two, other, upper petals. "Where the horizontal petals meet each other, a pin should temporarily be placed, but removed before the second petal is entirely woven in order that the threads may slip up and fill the hole left by the pin. Between daisies, where the petals form a cross, they linen-stitch through each other and the joint is supported by a pin. □= rD 214 Q= A LACE GUIDE FOB MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -o LINE G, COL. 16, Fish with 2 Horizontal Bars. I ' i • - : »> iiv. aV ; •«. •* »j ;•• • • •..•■ •••••• '$£'■'■ •Hr; .■■it • •• i a::* The weaver or horizontal bar passes twice through each so-called fish. The weavers and all other threads are twisted twice between fish and between other stitches, but the body of the fish is not twisted after the two pairs which form it, have cloth-stitched together at the top, nor until after they have cloth-stitched together at the tail. The fish are placed alternately below one another. Between bands of fish — that is, below one band and above the next — the passive or oblique pairs cloth-stitch through each other twice, not counting the exit and entrance into the fish bodies. Any pins used as supports, should soon be removed to avoid leaving unsightly gaps behind. □= =□ a^ RULES FOB MAKING 215 =□ LINE G, COL. 17, Trude "R" Ground (original) (American). ■W Tf V- Vif .*_ d l?!stt = 7* > ' ■; ; ' ; k 1 1 S= 5 f *?■ i H tri UJ This mesh is strong, hut rather confusing to make. The under or lower ground runs vertically and horizontally, each band having four pairs, twisted four times between the line-stitch squares. No pins are used in this part of the work except to hold up the weaver, which working back and forth from one side of the lace to the other, forms the horizontal lines. The superimposed design runs diagonally, two pairs twisted four times between intersections, weaving through each other by means of a cloth-stitch, made just over or above the twisted parts of the under-ground. To connect the two grounds, one should lay one thread of the diagonal over- mesh between two threads of the under-mesh, following the direction in which both are travelling, taking care to keep the diagonal threads on top. One ought □= 216 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS always to connect the first, two appropriate pairs which meet, so, when travelling from right to left: — /^ jj so, when travelling from left to ST \ * When working over right : — the horizontal hars, 111 IV the top or next to the top horizontal weaver is twisted once before it connects with a diagonal super-band, then it is twisted three times. The diagonal strand is twisted three times before and once after its connection when it meets the top or next to the top weaver-band of the under-rnesh, here for example : — — — __ VI Then one cloth-stitches this diagonal pair with its mate, placing a pin below the cross-joint in the center of the linen-stitch to support the joint. This pin should be removed before much work has been done, so as not to leave a hole behind it. When the horizontal weaver returns to this spot on the next lower line * Y/l the first diagonal pair it meets should have one thread passed through it to steady the structure, thus: — /--\._ or, thus: — Z v according to the Viii In- direction in which the weaver is travelling. This prevents the super-structure from slipping up or down. Over the vertical twists, f J / 1 the diagonals are X similarly attached to prevent their slipping sideways, thus:- thus: — ■ MfN These black dots indicate connections, or slipped-in threads, - m - Xl/ not pin holes. The pins used are placed at the center of the diagonal joints thus : All £ i XIII x/v D - D RULES FOE MAKING 217 =□ LINE G, COL. 18, Trude "T" Ground (original) (American). This sample requires ten pairs, four for each outwork, and a weaver. The outwork should be separated by a horizontal weaver bar running from left to right and vice versa, fastened at each end to afford a little firmness. The same design worked with several vertical bars is less satisfactory on account of less stability while working, besides its requiring more threads. Each pair is twisted three times between encounters or intersections. Pins should be temporarily placed below the cutwork weaver, and between the other cutwork threads while pulling these gently into position. The left-hand cut- work pair should be adjusted first, and the weaving pair knotted once before □= =□ 218 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS □ =1: LINE G, COL. 18— Continued Trude "T" Ground (original) (American). twisting it three times. The weaving pair should be kept oh the right hand, and the weaver itself longer than its mate. This same weaver must be used as the conductor on the cutworks below, so as never to use it as a side thread and thereby pull it too hard. After the three other threads are pulled out smooth, the weaver is pulled, and if necessary its knot is slightly lifted up into place close under the outwork or point d 'esprit with the help of a long sharp pin, the weaver's mate being firmly held meanwhile. The pins should be left in place until ready to start a new cutwork. Then the two right above the point d 'esprit should be removed to prevent leaving loops behind. Other pins that are in one 's way, may be pushed down, but not quite all the way in, that they may be easier to grasp and later remove by means of fine embroidery tweezers. =□ RULES FOB MAKING D= 219 =□ LINE H, COL. 1, Twice-twisted Hole Ground, Dieppe Gronmd, Hole Stitch with Twice-twisted Thread, Locherschlag mit Zweimal gedrehten Faden. This Twice-twisted Dieppe Ground is slightly easier than the regular, French Tulle de Dieppe, as it is twisted twice instead of three times between joints. The joint itself is made in the same way; that is, by crossing, twisting and crossing, placing a pin and closing it by crossing, twisting and crossing. □= =0 220 Q— A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -a LINE H, COL. 2, Les Arraignees Carees en Tulle Double. Each spider requires six pairs, three entering at the upper left and three at the upper right; these pairs or legs are each twisted three times, above and below the spiders. The spider bodies are made in the usual way. That is, the three upper, left-hand legs cloth-stitch through the three upper, right-hand legs. A pin is placed in the center ; the inside pairs are held high in the hand and the outside pairs are pulled specially tight in closing this spider, so as to make a little prominence at the center of the body, and the pairs on the left are cloth-stitched through those on the right to close the pin. The little row of open squares between spiders is made at the points of encounter between three right- hand legs of an upper spider, coming down to meet three, upper, left-hand legs of a lower spider; and at the center, top, bottom, left and right of the square, which frames the spider. At these points, the pairs which meet, if not already twisted, are twisted twice and crossed. Here a pin is placed and closed by twisting twice and closing. This is Tulle Double. a= =a RULES FOR MAKING 221 LINE H, COL. 3, Fond de Brides. m mm .::;. I* The scrolls and figures of bobbin lace were at first made to touch or overlap in order to hold together. Later they were held in place by twisted, braided or f ancily worked cross-bars of thread, known as ' ' brides. ' ' The throwing across or arrangement of these "bridges" became more and more regular as lace-making advanced, until they suggested network and led to the making of established and recognized grounds. There is no real rule for the making of Fond de Brides, except that it should be so twisted, braided, or otherwise entwined as to form a more or less equal and evenly spread out amount of open and solid, of light and dark, of evenly arranged, equally large pseudo meshes. D= 222 □= A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -P LINE H, COL. 4, Eyeless Spiders, Fond de Neige. These eyeless spiders; that is, spider bodies without pin or other holes in the centers, are made with six pairs to each spider. The pairs or legs, entering at the upper left and upper right and leaving at the lower left and lower right, are twisted twice each between spiders ; also the two legs entering at the top and leaving at the bottom. But these last, vertical pairs cloth-stitch through each other at the top of the spider having a pin placed above; and then spread out, cloth-stitching through the legs entering at the upper and lower left and upper and lower right, so as to form a circlet or wheel around the body of the spider, thereby squeezing the center of the body more compactly together. At the bottom of the spider, these encircling pairs cloth-stitch again through each D= RULES FOR MAKING 223 LINE H, COL. 4— Continued Eyeless Spiders, Fond de Neige. other, have a pin placed below the joint and are twisted twice. They are then ready to cloth-stitch again and enter the top of a lower spider. Inside of this wheel, the two, upper, left-hand legs cloth-stitch obliquely through the two, upper, right-hand legs and become the two lower, right-hand legs and are twisted twice and are ready to enter a spider below at the right. The upper, right-haud legs become the two, lower, left-hand legs, are then ready to enter another spider below to the left. No pin is placed in the centers of these spiders. □ = :D 224 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS -a LINE H, COL. 5, Genoese, or Reticella Mode. Z-rfr&^t .- -r"?i ■■•■■■ - •■(•WMit'llSUHiS.V ft'M'lllWtlSiaitito- i:;:.*<-«fliii»»iiu««iii times) — Line E, Col. 7 161 Antwerp ; Potten Kant ; Flemish — Line F, Col. 4 180 Armelle, Thin Cluny Petals, Leaves, Armeletta, Grains, Seeds, "Wheat Ears, Paddles— Line C, Col. 15 130 Armeletta, Thin Cluny Petals, Leaves, Armelle, Grains, Seeds, Wheat Ears, Paddles— Line C, Col. 15 130 Araignees Carrees en Tulle Double, Les — Line H, Col. 2 220 Araignees Rondes, Les; Round Spiders in Twice-twisted Hole Ground — Line G, Col. 2 199 Arras ; Tulle Ground ; Lille ; Filoche ; Fond Clair ; Fond Simple ; Brabant ; Trolly Net; Tondern; Marche; Point de Hollande; Dutsche Slag — Line F, Col. 3 179 Arras : see also Reseau Simple — Line G, Col. 6 204 B Bailleul, Bound-meshed Valenciennes of Harlebeke, Bruges, Courtrai, (braided 4 times) (often twice, Dentelle episcopate) — Line G, Col. 11. 209 Bar, Hexagonal Devonshire Filling — Line B, Col. 9 102 Bars and Cutworks, "Bohemian Edged" Devonshire— Line D, Col. 10 143 Bars and Cutworks, Devonshire Winkie Pin — Line C, Col. 10 124 Binche, Virgin Ground, Pin Check, Pink Check, Ornamental Ground, Cinq Trous, Point Carre-^Line A, Col. 2 71 Binche Mode— Line E, Col. 10 164 Binche Spiders, Bound, Open-eyed Brabant, Oeil de Perdrix, Reseau Rosace, Point de Flandre— Line G, Col. 4 201 "Bohemian Edged" Devonshire Bars and Cutworks— Line D, Col. 10 143 Bohemian Ground — Line G, Col. 5 203 403 404 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS PAGE Brabant, Arras, Tulle Ground, Lille, Filoche, Fond Clair, Fond Simple, Trol- ly Net, Tondern, Marche, Point de Hollande, Dutsche Slag — Line F, Col. 3 179 Brabant, Bincbe Spiders, Bound, Open-eyed, Oeil de Perdrix, Beseau Bo- sace, Point de Flandre — Line G, Col. 4 201 Brick, Devonshire, Mignonnette — Line C, Col. 8 „ 122 Brides, Fond de— Line H, Col. 3 221 Bruges, Bound-meshed Valenciennes of Harlebeke, Bailleul, Courtrai (braided 4 times) (often twice, Dentelle episcopale) — Line G, Col. 11. 209 Bruges, Square-meshed Valenciennes of Alost, Ypres and (braided 4 or 4^ times)— Line D, Col. 7 140 Bruges ( ?), Tulle (2 twists)— Line E, Col. 3 157 Brussels; Droschel; Vrai Beseau (fait sans epingles) ; Drochel — Line B, Col. 3 96 Brussels; Droschel; Vrai Beseau; Point d'Angleterre Net; Drochel — Line C, Col. 3 117 Buckingham: see also Reseau Simple — Line G, Col. 6 204 Buratto ; Filet— Line E, Col. 5 159 Byzantine, Medici, Florentine Knots — Line H, Col. 13 234 Chantilly; Star Mesh; Double Ground, Point de Paris; Point de Six; Eter- nelle ; Point Double ; Trenne ; Fond Chant; Grammont; Engelsche Grond— Line A, Col. 5 75 Cinq Trous; Binche; Virgin Ground; Pin Check; Pink Check; Ornamental Ground ; Point Carre — Line A, Col. 2 71 Cluny, Thin Petals, Leaves, Armelle, Armeletta, Grains, Seeds, Wheat Ears, Paddles— Line C, Col. 15 130 Courtrai, Bound-meshed Valenciennes of Bailleul, Harlebeke, Bruges, (braided 4 times) (often twice, Dentelle episcopale) — Line G, Col. 11. 209 Courtrai, Square-meshed Valenciennes of Menin and (braided 3 or 3% times)— Line C, Col. 7 121 Cross Pattern, Abruzzian or Pescolane — Line B, Col. 16 110 Cushion, Devonshire — Line B, Col. 8 101 Cutwork Net, Devonshire— Line G, Col. 8 206 Outworks, "Bohemian Edged" Devonshire Bars and — Line D, Col. 10 143 Outworks, Devonshire Winkie Pin Bars and — Line C, Col. 10 124 Outworks, Triangular, Fan-shaped Points d'Esprits or — Line A, Col. 15.. . 89 D Demi-Marguerites — Line F, Col. 15 194 Demi-Point; Net Stitch, Lattice Ground, Toile Ouverte, Point Beseau — Line A, Col. 1 70 Dentelle episcopale; Bound-meshed Valenciennes of Harlebeke, Bruges, Bailleul, Courtrai (braided 4 times) (often twice, Dentelle episcopale) —Line G, Col. 11 209 Devonshire Bars and Outworks, "Bohemian Edged" — Line D, Col. 10. ... 143 INDEX OF BOBBIN LACE GROUNDS AND FILLINGS 405 PAGE Devonshire Brick ; Mignonnette — Line C, Col. 8 122 Devonshire Cushion — Line B, Col. 8 101 Devonshire Cutwork Net— Line G, Col. 8 206 Devonshire Diamond Filling — Line A, Col. 10 82 Devonshire Double Ground Pin — Line C, Col. 9 123 Devonshire Four Pearl Filling — Line A, Col. 9 80 Devonshire Hexagonal Bar Filling — Line B, Col. 9 102 Devonshire Honeycomb Filling — Line E, Col. 9 163 Devonshire Mignonnette ; Devonshire Brick — Line C, Col. 8 122 Devonshire Pin Filling — Line A, Col. 8 79 Devonshire Point d 'Esprit Net— Line H, Col. 8 227 Devonshire Second Swing Filling — Line E, Col. 8 162 Devonshire Swing Filling; Spot Stitch— Line F, Col. 8 184 Devonshire Taunton — Line D, Col. 8 141 Devonshire Toad-in-the-Hole— Line F, Col. 10 187 Devonshire Wall Filling— Line G, Col. 10 208 Devonshire Winkie Pin Bars and Cutworks — Line C, Col. 10 124 Devonshire Wire Ground— Line G, Col. 9 207 Diamond Filling, Devonshire — Line A, Col. 10 82 Dice Holes; Slanting Hole— Line B, Col. 12 105 Dieppe Ground; Twice- twisted Hole Ground; Hole Stitch with Twice- twisted Thread; Locherschlag mit Zweimal gedrehten Faden — Line H, Col. 1 219 Dieppe, Petits Pois de— Line E, Col. 2 156 Dieppe, Tulle de — Line E, Col. 1 155 Dieppe Three-Thread Valenciennes — Line F, Col. 17 196 Double Ground ; Star Mesh ; Chantilly ; Point de Paris ; Point de Six ; Eter- nelle; Point Double; Trenne; Fond Chant; Grammont; Engelsche Grond— Line A, Col. 5 75 Double Ground Pin, Devonshire — Line C, Col. 9 123 Double Picots— Line D, Col. 15 149 Droschel; Brussels; Vrai Reseau (fait sans epingles) ; Drochel — Line B, Col. 3 96 Droschel; Brussels; Vrai Reseau; Point d'Angleterre Net; Drochel — Line C, Col. 3 117 Droschel de Bruxelles ; Drochel — Line D, Col. 3 136 Du Puy Point de Paris Variation or Lock Stitch; Torchon Mode — Line H, Col. 6 225 Du Puy, Tulle— Line B, Col. 1 94 Dutsche Slag; Arras; Tulle Ground; Lille; Filoche; Fond Clair; Fond Sim- ple ; Brabant ; Trolly Net ; Tondern ; Marche ; Point de Hollande — Line F, Col. 3 179 E Einfacher Gittergrund; Plain Lattice Ground; Filet — Line D, Col. 5 138 Einfacher Locherschlag; Plain Hole Ground; Torchon; Reseau Stitch — Line C, Col. 1 114 406 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS PAGE Eisgrond, Malines, Mechlin, Fond de Glace, Ijsgrond — Line A, Col. 3 73 Engelsche Grond; Ckantilly; Star Mesh; Double Ground; Point de Paris; Point de Six; Eternelle; Point Double; Trenne; Fond Chant; Gram- niont — Line A, Col. 5 75 Episcopate, Dentelle ; Round-meshed Valenciennes of Bailleul, Harlebeke, Bruges, Courtrai (braided 4 times) (often twice,"Dentelle episcopale) —Line G, Col. 11 209 Eternelle ; Chantilly ; Star Mesh ; Double Ground ; Point de Paris ; Point de Six ; Point Double ; Trenne ; Fond Chant ; Grammont ; Engelsche Grond — Line A, Col. 5 75 Eyeless Spiders ; Fond de Neige — Line H, Col. 4 222 Fancy Zeccatello, A— Line F, Col. 12 190 Fan-shaped, Triangular Points d'Esprits or Cutworks — Line A, Col. 15.... 89 Fat Maltese Petals, Leaves, Seeds, Grains, Wheat Ears, Paddles — Line B, Col. 15 109 Filet, An Italian— with Toile Dots— Line D, Col. 14 148 Filet ; Buratto— Line E, Col. 5 159 Filet; Plain Lattice Ground; Einfacher Gittergrund — Line D, Col. 5 138 Filet; Un Fond Hollandais— Line F, Col. 5 181 Filoche ; Brabant ; Arras ; Tulle Ground ; Lille ; Fond Clair ; Fond Simple ; Trolly Net; Tondern; Marche; Point de Hollande; Dutsche Slag — Line F, Col. 3 179 Fish with Two Horizontal Bars— Line G, Col. 16 214 Five or Six Sided Milanese Mesh— Line H, Col. 11 231 Flemish ; Potten Kant ; Antwerp— Line F, Col 4 180 Flemish ; Trolle Kant ; Fond Armure, Spinnekop — Line D, Col. 2 135 Flemish Filling, A; Lille Mode, A— Line D, Col. 4 137 Flemish Filling— Line H, Col. 9 229 Florentine, Byzantine, Medici Knots — Line H, Col. 13 234 Fond Armure ; Flemish ; Trolle Kant, Spinnekop — Line D, Col. 2 135 Fond Chant ; Chantilly ; Star Mesh ; Double Ground ; Point de Paris ; Point de Six ; Eternelle ; Point Double ; Trenne; Grammont; Engelsche Grond— Line A, Col. 5 75 Fond Chant (Palliser) ; Point de Paris; Fond Clair— Line C, Col. 11 125 Fond Clair; Point de Paris; Fond Chant (Palliser)— Line C, Col. 11 125 Fond Clair; Arras; Tulle Ground; Lille; Filoche; Fond Simple; Brabant; Trolly Net; Tondern; Marche; Point de Hollande; Dutsche Slag — Line F, Col. 3 179 Fond de Brides— Line H, Col. 3 221 Fond de Glace; Malines; Mechlin; Ijsgrond, Eisgrond — Line A, Col. 3 73 Fond de la Vierge ; Virgin Ground ; Ornamental Ground ; Point Carre — Line B, Col. 2 95 Fond de Milan ; Old Buckingham— Line C, Col. 5 119 Fond de Neige ; Eyeless Spiders— Line H, Col. 4 222 Fond de Neige ; Punto di Neve— Line A, Col. 18 93 INDEX OF BOBBIN LACE GROUNDS AND FILLINGS 407 PAGE Fond Hollandais, Un; Filet— Line F, Col. 5 181 Fond Simple ; Arras ; Tulle Ground ; Lille ; Filoche; Fond Clair; Brabant; Trolly Net; Tondern; Marehe; Point de Hollande; Dutsche Slag — Line F, Col. 3 179 Four Pearl Filling, Devonshire — Line A, Col. 9 80 Gand, Square-meshed Valenciennes of Menin, Ghent or (braided 2 or 2% times)— Line B, Col. 7 100 Gekreuzter Gittergrund; Lattice Ground (3 twists) — Line B, Col. 5 98 Gelosia; Bose Ground; Scandinavian Ground; Point du Mariage; Tulle Double— Line C, Col. 4 118 Genoese Grilled Six Leaved Marguerite — Line C, Col. 18 133 Genoese, or Beticello Mode — Line H, Col. 5 224 Genre Valenciennes ; Tulle de Vienne — Line G, Col. 1 198 German or Bussian Torchon — Line D, Col. 12 145 Ghent, Square-meshed Valenciennes of Menin, Gand or (braided 2 or 2y 2 times)— Line B, Col. 7 100 Einfacher Gittergrund ; Plain Lattice Ground ; Filet — Line D, Col 5 138 Gekreuzter Gittergrund; Lattice Ground (3 twists) — Line B, Col. 5 98 Grains, Fat Maltese Petals, Leaves, Seeds, Wheat Ears, Paddles — Line B, Col. 15 109 Grains, Thin Cluny Petals, Leaves, Arm elle, Armeletta, Seeds, Wheat Ears, Paddles— Line C, Col. 15 130 Grammont; Chantilly; Star Mesh; Double Ground; Point de Paris; Point de Six; Eternelle; Point Double; Trenne; Fond Chant; Engelsche Grond— Line A, Col. 5 75 H Harlebeke, Bound-meshed Valenciennes of Bruges, Bailleul, Courtrai, (braided 4 times) (often twice, Dentelle episcopale) — Line G, Col. 11. 209 Hexagonal Bar Filling, Devonshire — Line B, Col. 9 102 Hollandais, Un Fond, Filet— Line F, Col. 5 181 Hole Ground, Plain, Torchon; Beseau Stitch; Einfacher Locherschlag — Line C, Col. 1 114 Hole Ground, Twice-twisted, Dieppe Ground, Hole Stitch with Twice-twisted Thread, Locherschlag mit zweimal gedrehten Faden — Line H, Col. 1. . . 219 Hole Ground, Twisted, Tulle Double, Maglia di Spagna — Line D, Col. 1 134 Holes, Dice ; Slanting Hole— Line B, Col. 12 105 Hole, Slanting ; Dice Holes— Line B, Col. 12 105 Hole Stitch with Twice- twisted Thread; Dieppe Ground; Twice-twisted Hole Ground ; Locherschlag mit zweimal gedrehten Faden — Line H, Col. 1 219 Honeycomb Filling, Devonshire — Line E, Col. 9 163 Honfleur, Square-meshed Valenciennes of (braided 1 or iy 2 times) — Line A, Col. 7 77 408 A LACE GUIDE FOB MAKERS AND COLLECTORS PAGE Ijsgrond, Malines, Mechlin, Fond de Glace, Eisgrond — Line A, Col. 3 73 Irish Ground— Line G, Col. 13 211 Italian Filet with Toile Dots, An— Line D, Col. 14 148 Italian Ground, A Spotted— Line B, Col. 14 107 Italian Open-eyed, Cable-like Spiders — Line F, Col. 14. -. 193 Italian Six Legged Spiders with Eibbons — Line H, Col. 14 235 Italian Spider with Eye, An— Line C, Col. 14 129 Italian Spiders with Four Twisted Horizontal Bars — Line E, Col. 14 171 Italian Spiders with Two Horizontal Bars — Line G, Col. 14 212 Lattice Ground ; Demi-Point ; Net Stitch ; Toile Ouverte ; Point Eeseau — Line A, Col. 1 70 Lattice Ground; Gekreuzter Gittergrund (3 twists) — Line B, Col. 5 98 Lattice Ground, Plain ; Einf acher Gittergrund ; Filet — Line D, Col. 5 138 Leaves, Fat Maltese Petals, Seeds, Grains, Wheat Ears, Paddles — Line B, Col. 15 109 Leaves, Thin Cluny Petals, Armelle, Armeletta, Grains, Seeds, Wheat Ears, Paddles— Line C, Col. 15 130 Lescatelle, Abruzzian — Line C, Col. 16 131 Lille; Arras; Tulle Ground; Filoche; Fond Clair; Fond Simple; Brabant; Trolly Net; Tondern; Marche; Point de Hollande; Dutsche Slag — Line F, Col. 3 179 Lille : see also Reseau Simple — Line G, Col. 6 204 Lille Jour, A— Line F, Col. 9 185 Lille Mode, A ; Flemish Filling, A.— Line D, Col. 4 137 Locherschlag— Line F, Col. 6 182 Locherschlag mit zweimal gedrehten Faden; Dieppe Ground; Twice-twisted Hole Ground; Hole Stitch with Twice-twisted Thread— Line H, Col. 1. 219 Lock Stitch or Du Puy Point de Paris Variation; Torchon Mode — Line H, Col. 6 225 M Maglia di Spagna ; Eedina — Line F, Col. 1 177 Maglia di Spagna ; Twisted Hole Ground ; Tulle Double — Line D, Col. 1 134 Malines; Mechlin; Ijsgrond; Fond de Glace, Eisgrond — Line A, Col. 3 73 Maltese, Fat Petals, Leaves, Seeds, Grains, Wheat Ears, Paddles — Line B, Col. 15 109 Marche; Arras; Tulle Ground; Lille; Filoche; Fond Clair; Fond Simple; Brabant; Trolly Net; Tondern, Point de Hollande; Dutsche Slag- Line F. Col. 3 179 Marche : see also Reseau Simple — Line G, Col. 6 204 Marguerites a Centre de Toile — Line E, Col. 18 176 Marguerites a Six Petales (one sided joint) — Line E, Col. 15 173 INDEX OF BOBBIN LACE GROUNDS AND FILLINGS 409 PAGE Marguerites Centres a Huit — Line G, Col. 15 213 Marguerites, Demi Line F, Col. 15 194 Marguerites, Genoese Grilled Six Leaved — Line C, Col. 18 133 Mechlin; Malines; Ijsgrond; Fond de Glace, Eisgrond — Line A, Col. 3 73 Medici, Florentine, Byzantine Knots — Line H, Col. 13 234 Menin, Square-meshed Valenciennes of Courtrai and (braided 3 or 3y 2 times)— Line C, Col. 7 121 Menin, Square-meshed Valenciennes of Ghent or Gand and (braided 2 or 2y 2 times)— Line B, Col. 7 100 Mezza Cambruccia, Abruzzian — Line A, Col. 16 90 Mignonnette ; Devonshire Brick — Line C, Col. 8 122 Milanese Mesh, Five or Six-Sided— Line H, Col. 11 231 Mille Pattes, Les— Line F, Col. 2 178 Moulinet— Line B, Col. 18 112 N Net Stitch ; Demi-Point ; Lattice Ground Toile Ouverte ; Point Reseau — Line A, Col. 1 70 O Oeil de Perdrix, Round, Open-eyed, Brabant, Binche Spiders, Reseau Ro- sace ; Point de Flandre — Line G, Col. 4 201 Old Buckingham ; Fond de Milan— Line C, Col. 5 119 Open-eyed, Round, Brabant, Binche Spiders; Oeil de Perdrix; Reseau Rosace ; Point de Flandre— Line G, Col. 4 201 Ornamental Ground; Binche; Virgin Ground; Pin Check; Pink Check; Cinq Trous ; Point Carre — Line A, Col. 2 71 Ornamental Ground; Virgin Ground; Fond de la Vierge; Point Carre — Line B, Col. 2 95 Ornamental Ground with Striped Effect in Diagonal Squares, Ziergrund mit Streifen-Musterung in Karo-Einteilung — Line D, Col. 6 139 Ornamental Ground with Zigzag Diagonal Stripes ; Ziergrund mit Striefen- Musterung in Zacken-Einteilung — Line E, Col. 6 160 Paddles, Fat Maltese Petals, Leaves, Seeds, Grains, Wheat Ears — Line B, Col. 15 109 Paddles, Thin Cluny Petals, Leaves, Armelle, Armeletta, Grains, Seeds, Wheat Ears— Line C, Col. 15 130 Pescolane or Abruzzian Cross Pattern — Line B, Col. 16 110 Petals, Fat Maltese Leaves, Seeds, Grains, Wheat Ears, Paddles — Line B, Col. 15 109 Petals, Thin Cluny Leaves, Armelle, Armeletta, Grains, Seeds, Wheat Ears, Paddles— Line C, Col. 15 130 410 A LACE GUIDE FOB MAKERS AND COLLECTORS PAGE Petits Pois de Dieppe— Line E, Col. 2 156 Picots, Double— Line D, Col. 15 149 Picots, Point de Tresse with Knotted— Line E, Col. 13 169 Picots, Point de Tresse with Plain — in Side Joints — Line C, Col. 13 128 Picots, Point de Tresse with Plain, Side— (Line D, Col. 13 147 Picots, Point de Tresse with Plain — inLower Joints — Line B, Col. 13 106 Picots, Valenciennes — Line F, Col. 13 v . 192 Pin Check ; Binche ; Virgin Ground ; Pink Check ; Ornamental Ground, Cinq Trous ; Point Carre— Line A, Col. 2 71 Pin Filling, Devonshire — Line A, Col. 8 79 Pink Check; Binche; Virgin Ground; Pin Check; Ornamental Ground; Cinq Trous ; Point Carre— Line A, Col. 2 71 Piscitelli, Abruzzian — Line D, Col. 16 150 Plain Hole Ground; Torchon; Reseau Stitcb ; Einfacher Locherschlag — Line C, Col. 1 114 Plain Lattice Ground ; Filet ; Einfacher Gittergrund — Line D, Col. 5 138 Plain Side Picots, Point de Tresse with — Line D, Col. 13 147 Plain Torchon Spiders — Line E, Col. 4 158 "Point a la Vierge" nach Slavischer Art; Slavonian Style Virgin Point — Line C, Col. 6 120 "Point and Flat," Abruzzian— Line H, Col. 16 238 Point Carre, Binche; Virgin Ground; Pin Check; Pink Check, Ornamental Ground ; Cinq Trous— Line A, Col. 2 71 Point Carre; Virgin Ground; Ornamental Ground; Fond de la Vierge — Line B, Col. 2 95 Point dAngleterre Net; Brussels; Droschel; Vrai Reseau; Drochel — Line C, Col. 3 117 Point d 'Esprit Net, Devonshire— Line H, Col. 8 227 Point de Flandre, Round, Open-eyed Brabant, Binche Spiders, Oeil de Per- drix, Reseau Rosace — Line G, Col. 4 201 Point de Hollande ; Arras ; Tulle Ground ; Lille ; Filoche ; Fond Clair, Fond Simple; Brabant; Trolly Net; Tondern; Marche; Dutsche Slag — Line F, Col. 3 179 Point de Paris; Chantilly; Star Mesh; Double Ground; Point de Six; Eter- nelle ; Point Double ; Trenne ; Fond Chant ; Grammont ; Engelsche Grond— Line A, Col. 5 75 Point de Paris; Fond Clair; Fond Chant (Palliser)— Line C, Col. 11 125 Point de Paris Variation, Du Puy or Lock Stitch; Torchon Mode — Line H, Col. 6 225 Point de Paris Variation with Tressed Sides — Line E, Col. 11 166 Point de Paris Variation, Redina or Tulle Double — Line D, Col. 11 144 Point de Six ; Chantilly ; Star Mesh ; Double Ground ; Point de Paris ; Eter- nelle ; Point Double ; Trenne ; Fond Chant ; Grammont ; Engelsche Grond — Line A, Col. 5 75 Point de Tresse with Knotted Picots— Line E, Col. 13 169 Point de Tresse with Plain Side Picots — Line D, Col. 13 147 Point de Tresse with Plain Picots in Lower Joints — Line B, Col. 13 166 INDEX OF BOBBIN LACE GROUNDS AND FILLINGS 411 PAGE Point de Tresse with Plain Picots in Side Joints — Line C, Col. 13 128 Point Double, Chantilly, Star Mesh, Double Ground, Point de Paris, Point de Six, Eternelle, Trenne, Fond Chant, Grammont, Engelsche Grond— Line A, Col. 5 75 Point du Mariage; Rose Ground; Scandinavian Ground; Gelosia; Tulle Double— Line C, Col. 4 118 Point du Mariage fait a, la Torchon au Demi-Point — Line A, Col. 6 78 Point Jeunet ou Genet; Scotch Broom Stitch; Ziergrund mit Schragstreifen- Musterung— Line C, Col. 2 115 Point Reseau; Net Stitch; Demi-Point; Lattice Ground; Toile Ouverte — Line A, Col. 1 70 Points d'Esprits, Triangular, Fan-Shaped Cutworks or — Line A, Col. 15. . . 89 Potten Kant; Flemish ; Antwerp — Line F, Col. 4 180 Punto di Neve ; Fond de Neige— Line A, Col. 18 93 R Eedina ; Maglia di Spagna — Line F, Col. 1 177 Redina or Tulle Double Point de Paris Variation — Line D, Col. 11 144 Reseau Rosace; Round, Open-eyed Brabant, Binche Spiders; Oeil de Perdrix ; Point de Flandre— Line G, Col. 4 201 Reseau Simple, Analogue a Celui de Lille, d 'Arras, de Marche, de Tondern, de Buckingham — Line G, Col. 6 204 Reseau Stitch ; Plain Hole Ground ; Torchon ; Einf acher Locherschlag — Line C, Col. 1 114 Reseau, Vrai (fait sans epingles) ; Brussels; Droschel; Drochel — Line B, Col. 3 96 Reseau, Vrai; Brussels; Droschel; Point d' Angle terre Net; Drochel — Line C, Col. 3 117 Reticello or Genoese Mode — Line H, Col 5 224 Rose Ground; Scandinavian Ground; Point du Mariage; Gelosia; Tulle Double— Line C, Col. 4 118 Round-meshed Valenciennes (singly twisted joint, centuple braid) (Bruges has triple braid) — Line G, Col. 7 205 Round-meshed Valenciennes of Harlebeke, Bruges, Courtrai, Bailleul (braided 4 times) (often twice, Dentelle episcopale) — Line G, Col. 11. 209 Round, Open-eyed, Brabant, Binche Spiders; Oeil de Perdrix; Reseau Ro- sace ; Point de Flandre — Line G, Col. 4 201 Round Spiders in Twice-twisted Hole Ground; Les Araignees Rondes — Line G, Col. 2 199 Round Valenciennes (doubly twisted joint, triple braid) — Line H, Col. 7. . . . 226 Russian or German Torchon — Line D, Col. 12 145 Scandinavian Ground; Rose Ground; Point du Mariage; Gelosia; Tulle Double— Line C, Col. 4 118 Scotch Broom Stitch ; Point Jeunet ou Genet ; Ziergrund mit Schragstreif en — Musterung— Line C, Col. 2 115 412 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS PAGE Second Swing Filling, Devonshire — Line E, Col. 8 162 Seeds, Fat Maltese Petals, Leaves, Grains, Wheat Ears, Paddles, — Line B, Col. 15 109 Seeds, Thin Cluny Petals, Leaves, Armelle, Armeletta, Grains, Wheat Ears, Paddles— Line C, Col. 15 130 Six or Five Sided Milanese Mesh— Line H, Col. 11 ; 231 Slanting Hole ; Dice Holes— Line B, Col. 12 105 Slavonian Style Virgin Point, "Point a la Vierge" nach Slavischer Art — Line C, Col. 6 120 Spagna, Maglia di, Twisted Hole Ground ; Tulle Double — Line D, Col. 1. . . . 134 Spider, An Italian, with Eye— Line C, Col. 14 129 Spiders, Eyeless ; Fond de Neige — Line H. Col. 4 222 Spiders in Twice-twisted Hole Ground, Bound; Les Araignees Bondes — Line G, Col. 2 199 Spiders, Italian, Open-eyed, Cable-like — Line F, Col. 14 193 Spiders, Italian Six-Legged, with Bibbons — Line H, Col. 14 235 Spiders, Italian, with 4 twisted Horizontal Bars — Line E, Col. 14 171 Spiders, Italian, with 2 horizontal Bars — Line G, Col. 14 212 Spiders, Plain Torchon — Line E, Col. 4 158 Spiders, Bound, Open-eyed, Brabant, Binche; Oeil de Perdrix; Beseau Bo- sace ; Point de Flandre — Line G, Col. 4 201 Spinnekop; Flemish; Trolle Kant; Fond Armure — Line D, Col. 2 135 Spot Stitch ; Devonshire Swing Filling— Line F, Col. 8 184 Spotted Italian Ground, A — Line B, Col. 14 107 Square-meshed Valenciennes of Alost and Ypres (braided 5 or 5y 2 times) — Line E, Col. 7 161 Square-meshed Valenciennes of Bruges, Ypres and Alost (braided 4 or 4% times)— Line D, Col. 7 140 Square-meshed Valenciennes of Courtrai and Menin (braided 3 or 3 1 /) times) —Line C, Col. 7 121 Square-meshed Valenciennes of Honfleur (braided 1 or l!/> times) — Line A, Col. 7 77 Square-meshed Valenciennes of Menin, Ghent or Gaud (braided 2 or 2y 2 times)— Line B, Col. 7 100 Star Mesh ; Chantilly ; Double Ground ; Point de Paris ; Point de Six ; Eter- nelle ; Point Double ; Trenne ; Fond Chant ; Grammont ; Engelsche Grond— Line A, Col. 5 75 "Sunspots"— Line H, Col. 12 232 Swing Filling, Devonshire, Spot Stitch — Line F, Col. 8 184 Swing Filling, Devonshire Second — Line E, Col. 8 162 Taunton, Devonshire — Line D, Col. 8 141 Thin, Cluny Petals, Leaves, Armelle, Armeletta, Grains, Seeds, Wheat Ears, Paddles— Line C, Col. 15 130 Toad-in-the-Hole, Devonshire— Line F, Col. 10 187 INDEX OF BOBBIN LACE GROUNDS AND FILLINGS 413 PAGE Toile Ouverte, Net Stitch; Demi-Point; Lattice Ground; Point Eeseau — Line A, Col. 1. . . . . 70 Tondern; Arras; Tulle Ground; Filoche; Fond Clair; Fond Simple; Bra- bant; Trolly Net; Marclie; Point de Hollande; Dutsche Slag, Lille — Line F, Col. 3 179 Tondern : see also Reseau Simple — Line G, Col. 6 204 Torchon— Line E. Col. 12 167 Torchon Mode, Lock Stitch or Du Puy Point de Paris Variation — Line H, Col. 6 225 Torchon ; Plain Hole Ground ; Eeseau Stitch ; Einf acher Locherschlag — Line C, Col. 1 114 Torchon, Eussian or German — Line D, Col. 12 145 Torchon Spiders, Plain — Line E, Col. 4 158 Trenne; Chantilly; Star Mesh; Double Ground; Point de Paris; Point de Six; Eternelle; Point Double; Fond Chant; Grammont; Engelsche Grond— Line A, Col. 5 75 Trentino— Line A, Col. 14 87 Tresse, Point de, with Knotted Picots— Line E, Col. 13 169 Tresse, Point de, with Plain Picots in Lower Joints — Line B, Col. 13 106 Tresse, Point de, with Plain Picots in Side Joints — Line C, Col. 13 128 Tresse, Point de, with Plain, Side Picots— Line D, Col. 13 147 Tresses with Open Hooked Joints — Line H, Col. 17 239 Triangular, Fan-Shaped Points d'Esprits or Cutworks — Line A, Col. 15. . . . 89 Trolle Kant ; Flemish ; Fond Armure ; Spinnekop — Line D, Col. 2 135 Trolly Net ; Arras ; Tulle Ground ; Lille ; Filoche ; Fond Clair ; Fond Simple ; Brabant; Tondern; Marche; Point de Hollande; Dutsche Slag — Line F, Col. 3 179 Trude Trude Trude Trude "A" Ground "B" Ground "C" Ground "D" Ground Trude "E" Ground Trude Trude Trude Trude "F' "G' "H' Ground Ground Ground I" Ground Trude "J" Ground Trude "K" Ground Trude "L" Ground Trude "N" Ground Trude "0" Ground Trude "P" Ground Trude "Q" Ground Trude "E" Ground Trude "S" Ground Trude "T" Ground original) (American) — Line A, Col. 4 74 original) (American) — Line B, Col. 4 97 original) (American) — Line D, Col. 9 142 original) (American) — Line A, Col. 11 83 original) (American) — Line B, Col. 11 104 original) (American) — Line F, Col. 11 189 original) (American) — Line A, Col. 12 84 original) (American) — Line C, Col. 12 126 original) (American) — Line A, Col. 13 85 original) (American) — Line H, Col. 15 237 original) (American) — Line E, Col. 16 174 original) (American) — Line F, Col. 16 195 original) (American) — Line A, Col. 17 91 original) (American) — Line B, Col. 17 Ill original) (American) — Line C, Col. 17 132 original) (American) — Line D, Col. 17 151 original) (American) — Line G, Col. 17 215 original) (American) — Line D, Col. 18 153 original) (American) — Line G, Col. 18 217 Tulle (Bruges?) (2 twists)— Line E, Col. 3 157 414 A LACE GUIDE FOR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS PAGE Tulle (5 twists)— Line G, Col. 3 200 Tulle de Dieppe— Line E, Col. 1 155 Tulle de Vienne; Genre Valenciennes — Line G, Col. 1 198 Tulle Double Done on the Square— Line F, Col. 18 197 Tulle Double or Eedina Point de Paris Variation — Line D, Col. 11 144 Tulle Double; Rose Ground; Scandinavian Ground; Point du Mariage; Gelosia— Line C, Col. 4 118 Tulle Double; Twisted Hole Ground; Maglia di Spagna — Line D, Col. 1. . . . 134 Tulle Du Puy— Line B, Col. 1 94 Tulle Ground; Arras; Lille; Filocbe; Fond Clair; Fond Simple; Brabant; Trolly Net; Tondern; Marcbe; Point de Hollande; Diitsche Slag — Line F, Col. 3 179 Twice-twisted Hole Ground ; Dieppe Ground ; Hole Stitch with Twice-twist- ed Thread ; Locherschlag mit zweimal gedrehten Faden — Line H, Col. 1 219 Twice-twisted Virgin Point — mit zweimal gedrehtem Schlusschlag — Line B, Col. 6 99 Twisted Hole Ground ; Tulle Double ; Maglia di Spagna— Line D, Col. 1. . . . 134 Valenciennes, Dieppe Three-thread — Line F, Col. 17 196 Valenciennes, Genre ; Tulle de Vienne — Line G, Col. 1 198 Valenciennes Mixte— Line F, Col. 7 183 Valenciennes Picots— Line F, Col. 13 192 Valenciennes, Round (doubly twisted joint, triple braid) — Line H, Col. 7.. . 226 Valenciennes, Round-meshed (singly twisted joint, centuple braid) (Bruges has triple braid)— Line G, Col. 7 205 Valenciennes, Round-meshed of Harlebeke, Bruges, Courtrai, Bailleul (braid- ed 4 times) (often twice, Dentelle episcopale) — Line G, Col. 11 209 Valenciennes, Square-meshed of Alost and Ypres (braided 5 or 5y 2 times) — Line E, Col. 7 161 Valenciennes, Square-meshed of Bruges, Ypres and Alost (braided 4 or 4!/2 times)— Line D, Col. 7 140 Valenciennes, Square-meshed of Courtrai and Menin (braided 3 or 3% times) —Line C, Col. 7 121 Valenciennes, Square-meshed of Honfleur (braided 1 or l l /o times) — Line A, Col. 7 77 Valenciennes, Square-meshed of Menin, Ghent or Gand (braided 2 or 2y 2 times)— Line B, Col. 7 100 Vienne, Tulle de ; Genre Valenciennes — Line G, Col. 1 198 Virgin Ground; Ornamental Ground; Fond de la Vierge ; Point Carre — Line B, Col. 2 95 Virgin Ground ; Pin Check ; Pink Check ; Ornamental Ground ; Binche ; Cinq Trous ; Point Carre — Line A, Col. 2 71 Virgin Point, Slavonian Style; "Point a la Vierge" nach Slavischer Art — Line C, Col. 6 120 INDEX OF BOBBIN LACE GROUNDS AND FILLINGS 415 PAGE Virgin Point, Twice-twisted — mit zweimal gedrehtern Schlusschlag — Line B, Col. 6 99 Vrai Reseau (fait sans epingles) ; Brussels; Droschel; Drochel — Line B, Col. 3 96 Vrai Reseau; Brussels; Droschel; Point d'Angleterre Net; Drocliel — Line C, Col. 3 117 W Wall Filling, Devonshire— Line G, Col. 10 208 Wheat Ears, Fat Maltese Petals, Leaves, Seeds, Grains, Paddles — Line B, Col. 15 109 Wheat Ears, Thin Cluny Petals, Leaves, Armelle, Armeletta, Grains, Seeds, Paddles— Line C, Col. 15 130 Winkie Pin Bars and Cutworks, Devonshire — Line C, Col. 10 124 Wire Ground, Devonshire — Line G, Col. 9 207 Ypres, Square-meshed Valenciennes of Alost and (braided 5 or 5% times) —Line E, Col. 7 161 Ypres, Square-meshed Valenciennes of Bruges, Alost and (braided 4 or 4!/2 times)— Line D, Col. 7 140 Zeccatello— Line G, Col. 12 210 Zeccatello, A Fancy— Line F, Col. 12 190 Ziergrund mit Schragstreifen — Musterung, Scotch Broom Stitch; Point Jeu- net ou Genet — Line C, Col. 2 115 Ziergrund mit Streifen — Musterung in Karo — Einteilung; Ornamental Ground with Striped Effect in Diagonal Squares — Line D, Col. 6. . . . 139 Ziergrund mit Streifen — Musterung in Zacken — Einteilung; Ornamental Ground with Zigzag Diagonal Stripes — Line E, Col. 6 160 Line B, Col. 10 103 Line E, Col. 17 175 Line H, Col. 10 230 Line H, Col. 18. (first) 241 Line H, Col. 18. (second) 242 I ilHlBP ^cw 3 tBWBCjiw*fcgi>a feM»^» » -«^,j. - .-■ Col. 7. I 'ol. 8. EXECUTED BY THE AUTHOR ORIGINAL IN THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART. NEW YORK CITY Net Stitch, LuHe.OWA Dam-Point, l'..i|. Onverlo, Point IKeeM. Virgin Ground, PinW, P»* cl »* O™"""'"" 1 Orouno, »""*«■ Cm « T Malinoe, Mechlin ijfcrond, Pond dc Qlnee. Trudp "A" fl 1 (orieiua!) ( American). Sl.,t -Meah DonbleOJv? 1 -''« l '"™' p '-* si <- Eternelle, Pt. Double, Trenne, Clnuitilly, Fd. Chant, Orammont. En|jel„he Qrou.l Point du Mnriogj'fo'l > " Tmtal "" n «"i' P °''"- Suuen-nieahed ValeM*"' °' Honfleiir (braided 1 or V- Devonshire Pin Filling. DovoHBliire Four par! Filling. Col. -I. t'ol. 5. Col. G Tulle liu Puy. „. .... . Virgin Ground Oruueontal Ground, Pond dc la Vicrgc, Point Onrrc Urnm-ls, Droichel Vtai R&omi Unit aana cpinglca). Trude "B" Gronad (original) (American). Lattice Ground, 0*i.«' Giltcrgrund (3 timtn). Tmoc-tmated Vintia Point-nut r.vioial gedrchtcm Schlus8chl«g, Sunore-meahed vStion™ of Sic Ghent or Good braided ■-• Devonshire Cm a I levonshiro Hexagonl Bar Filling. AN INDEXED, COMPARATIVE SAMPLER OF 145 MADE TO THE SCALE Of NO. 70 D.M.C. LINEN THREAD AND MADE IN NEW YOR mm Col. l. Col. J. Col. 3. Plain Hole Ground, Torchon. R.Wuu Siit-h. Kiufncher I hn.-Mug Scotch Broom Stitti Point Jeonel oh Genet, Ziergrund mit Sehrngstrcfen-Mnstemng. Broads, Drosehd, Vrflln^n, Point dVAxgleUrre^t. _ Rase Ground, Scandinavian Ground, Point du Manage, GHos,.-,. Tulle Double. Old Buckingham, Few! de Milan. Slavonian Style Virgin Point, "Point a la V.erge" nnch Sliivwh Squarc-mcshed ValtftiennM of Courtrai rind Me Devonshire Briek, Jlignonnette. Devonshire Double Ground Pin. Col. I. Twisted Hole Groin* Tulle Double, Mnglia « ..I. 2. Flemish, Trolle Kant Fond Armure. Col. :t. Droschcl de Hnixella. Col, 1. A FI.-iul.s1i Pilling. sJLuTc Mode. Col, 5. Plain Lattice GrouS, Pilot, Einfncher Gillcrgruud. Col C. OraamontalOroundSrilh Striped Effect in Diagonal Squares, Ziergrund nut Streifen-Mus Col, T. Square-meshed Vnlefieiiniw of Bruges, Ypres and Alost (braided 4 or 4% times). Col. 8. Devonshire Taunton. Col, D. Tnide "C" Ground [original) (American). Col I Tulle do Dieppe. Col. 2. Pctits Pos dc Dieppe- Col. 3. Tnillc (Brogesl) (2twisls| Col, 4 Plain Torchon Spiders. Col, 5. Col. 6. Col. 1. Burotto. Filet Ornamental Gronnd with Zigzag Diagonal Su n ..,, V.^iv I m>i s-ir-n Sqoare-meshed Valenciennes of Alost and Ypres ' hraide#NP*f vonshire Bars ami Outworks. Point de Paris Variation. 'Bohemian Edged Tulle Double or He Torchon, Russian o Point de Trcsse with Plain, Side Picots. An Italian Filet with Toile Dots. Double Picots. Alnizziun Piseitelli. Trade "Q" Ground (original) (American) T.-uili. "S" Ground (original) (American).