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INSTRUCTIONS 
 
 IN 
 
 
 BY 
 
 / 
 
 E. "V^. I3XJR.A.lSriD. 
 
 IRVINGTON, ESSEX COUNTY, NEW JERSEY 
 
 a^ 
 
 .; OF coT?^;. 
 
 u 
 
 NEWARK, N. J.: 
 
 Press of Williams & Plum, 
 
 18T6 
 
Entered according to Act of Congress, in 
 the Year Eighteen Hundred and Seventy-Six, by 
 E. W. DuRAND, in the office of the Librarian of 
 Congress, at Washington. 
 
 5^^' 
 
 5> 
 
 
TO THE PUBLIC. 
 
 Having so frequently been solicited for articles 
 upon Strawberry culture, I have concluded to give 
 the results of my experience in as brief a manner 
 as possible, consistent with the necessities the mat- 
 ter may demand. 1 herewith present this little 
 Book, hoping it may meet with approval, and sat- 
 isfy the requirements of the Strawberry public, not 
 only as a source of information to growers generally, 
 but as a guide for the novice from the beginning 
 to the end. 
 
 In the whole course of my experience, I have 
 been almost entirely self-reliant ; not to say that I 
 am vain enough to suppose the experience of others 
 worth nothing in comparison; but having listened, 
 at the start, to so many conflicting theories, which 
 not only served to puzzle and mystify me to 
 such an extent as to leave me more in the dark 
 than ever, as to any definite course to pursue, but 
 impressed upon me the necessity of experiment, in 
 every possible direction, in order to arrive at any 
 just conclusion. 
 
 Having pursued this course persistently for the 
 last seventeen years, cultivating both for the market 
 and family purposes, combining and experimenting 
 with manures, in different soils, and under various 
 circumstances, forcing upon myself a mass of ma- 
 
terial, and entailing an amount of labor that few 
 would be willing to endure for the value of the 
 knowledge gained. The necessities have been such 
 as to throw nearly the whole labor upon my own 
 hands; finding it next to impossible to procure 
 such help, combined with a conception of the pro- 
 per conditions and essentials. In order to avoid 
 the muddle that hired intelligence would have sub- 
 jected me to, I have had to endure an amount of 
 physical and mental labor, that had it not been for 
 knowledge of both the necessities and attention to 
 the same, I should have broken down under the 
 strain long since. Not only in the preparation and 
 care of my beds for the cultivation of hundreds 
 and thousands of new varities, and incidentals as 
 above mentioned, that being but a fraction of the 
 whole; but in originating seedlings from which 
 vexatious trials and troubles in combination, and 
 necessities in way of experiment, and labor of the 
 brain, none but those pursuing a similar course 
 can comprehend. 
 
 My intention at the commencement of this work, 
 was to give results in way of originating seedlings 
 as well as in cultivation, but finding it would be 
 more of an undertaking than would be consistent 
 with the time and necessities of the occasion, I have 
 concluded to give such experience in similar form 
 at some future time. 
 
 In these few lines of general instruction, no pre- 
 tense is made in a literary way, as regards develop- 
 ment of any peculiar theory, or nice flow of tech- 
 nicalities : such not being necessary for the purpose 
 
of instruction in respect to cultivation of fruit; 
 but simply as presenting such instruction as the 
 necessities may require, in a plain and comprehen- 
 sive manner, avoiding all those (to some), indefinite 
 terms as may only serve to puzzle and mystify those 
 seeking such knowledge in an ordinary way, and 
 consistent with common sense. 
 
 Having honestly given the results of my exper- 
 ience in such a manner as all may easily understand, 
 I leave it to the community to judge how far I may 
 have been successful by my productions of such 
 fruit, now and in future, to be presented to a dis- 
 criminating public. 
 
 E. W. DURAND. 
 
STRAWBEEEY OULTUEE. 
 
 In explanation of the following, I may acknow- 
 ledge that my experience has been mainly upon 
 clay soil, in some cases inclining to sandy loam, 
 never in any case cultivating extensively upon 
 strictly sandy soil, arriving at conclusions on such 
 soil by experiment and observation, confirmed by 
 the experience of prominent cultivators. When 
 preparing for any particular crop, it is well to un- 
 derstand the necessities and requirements in every 
 particular, in order to see your course clearly, pur- 
 suing it unhesitatingly and intelligently, leaving 
 no stone unturned that may assist in arriving at a 
 successful termination. With this end in view, I 
 present such instruction as will, with proper atten- 
 tion, invariably lead to satisfactory results, and 
 reward those so engaged by such a return in a pe- 
 cuniary sense, as will leave no cause of complaint 
 for following faithfully the path pointed out. As 
 in many cases cultivators pay but slight attention, 
 I would impress one thing upon the mind, that 
 it will be necessary, at the start, to understand 
 thoroughly the nature of the soil with which you 
 have to deal. As for Strawberries it will follow, as 
 an invariable rule, that beyond a certain degree, 
 soils made light will not answer, especially when 
 made so with horse manure, or any light, fibrous 
 material. Of course, under such conditions, it will 
 not do to apply immoderate quantities of light 
 manures to soils that are naturally light in them- 
 
8 
 
 selves, or made so by previous cultivation. All 
 soils in proportion as they may contain sand or 
 light vegetable material, must be manured accord- 
 ingly. As near as may be possible to judge, I 
 would recommend it applied as advised, allowing 
 the largest quantity mentioned to stiff clay, and 
 using in moderation as you approach sand, or light 
 soil of any kind, say but one quarter of the great- 
 est allowance, and that of the kind recommended. 
 Of course, it is apparent to all that clay will retain 
 and absorb immense quantities of such material, 
 and last or remain in proportion, while as they 
 incline to sand they are more rapidly exhausted. 
 We may now proceed with the matter in hand. 
 
 AS MANURE AND ITS APPLICATION 
 
 Is of great importance, and one of the first essen- 
 tials, I propose to give the necessities in way of 
 management and distribution. That I have always 
 been, and am still, of the opinion, that compost is 
 most desirable, yet in extensive cultivation it entails 
 too much labor in way of collecting the necessary 
 materials, and the construction of the heap, in order 
 to be complete in way of variety, still for those 
 merely cultivating a family bed, I should certainly 
 advise it. I prefer in all cases to use cow manure 
 as most reliable. 
 
 The preparation I would advise for compost 
 would be cow manure as a base, as an absorbent ] 
 would employ the sediment of a fish pond, muck, 
 sweepings from the city streets, or even rich deposits 
 
9 
 
 of sand and vegetable matter frequently found by 
 the road side. 
 
 Commence with a layer of four or five inches of 
 cow manure, upon that an inch or so of the absorb- 
 ent dirt or muck, upon that a sprinkling of bone 
 dust, upon that a layer of night soil, contents of 
 sink, or garbage of any kind, upon that a layer of 
 absorbent, and so on until the heap is complete, or 
 as high as may be desired. 
 
 If wood ashes can be had, use freely with the 
 dirt or muck, covering it with an extra layer of the 
 same, as it throws off ammonia from the manure 
 when in contact with it, it is well to use a sprink- 
 ling of plaster with the muck or other absorbing 
 material, in order that you may be sure of retaining 
 all gases that may be likely to escape. 
 
 Upon this heap, when complete, throw all slops 
 from the house, if convenient, and allow the heap 
 to remain for fifteen or twenty days ; then turn it 
 over, mix thoroughly, put a layer of the absorbent 
 on top with a sprinkling of plaster, and in a few 
 days it will be ready for use. If the compost is not 
 convenient, use, unhesitatingly, cow manure, never 
 resorting in any case to that of the horse, in way 
 of preparation for immediate planting. Although 
 in many cases a bed prepared with well rotted horse 
 manure may be a very successful operation, yet 
 with a long experience of its uncertain results, I 
 would, in my own case, never attempt it again. 
 I have frequently examined plants from a bed set 
 out after being prepared with, as I supposed, well 
 rotted horse manure, and have found the roots 
 
10 
 
 blackened or burned entirely off by contact with it. 
 Not so with that from the cow. You may find 
 plants growing in a mass of fresh manure of this 
 kind, with roots as fresh and bright as possible, 
 and when compelled to do so, have manured beds 
 heavily with fresh cow manure just previous to set- 
 ting out, with great success, yet I do not advise it, 
 except where time is out of the question, and the 
 necessity is upon you. We now come to 
 
 THE PEEPARATION OF THE GROUND, 
 
 As in this lies the foundation for a successful crop, 
 care and attention should be given to the matter. 
 If possible take it in hand at least one year in ad- 
 vance, or previous to the time you propose setting 
 out your plants. First in order is the 
 
 AMOUNT OF MANURE REQUIRED. 
 
 You may apply at the rate of from fifty to one 
 hundred two-horse loads to the acre for heavy clay 
 soil, divide for three ploughings, using the greatest 
 proportion at the first ploughing, which should be 
 in the spring. Harrow and allow the weeds to 
 sprout; when of sufficient height, plough again, 
 and be sure you allow none to go to seed to give 
 you trouble in future. 
 
 In the fall plough again, using more than half 
 of the remaining manure, reserving the last and 
 smallest proportion for the next spring, which 
 should be ploughed in as early as possible. 
 
11 
 
 If the ground is stony, to save trouble in cul- 
 tivation, it would be well to remove them at each 
 ploughing. 
 
 Your ground is now ready, with the exception of 
 about five hundred pounds of bone dust to the acre, 
 which I would advise distributing at the ploughing 
 that is necessary before setting the plants. It will 
 be well here to give an idea of the best manner of 
 
 PREPARING THE PLANTS. 
 
 The general way is to allow the runners to take 
 root anywhere; but the careful cultivator distributes 
 them carefully and evenly, making each one sta- 
 tionary by putting a small stone or lump of dirt 
 upon the vine, as close as possible to the leaf, at the 
 base of which it takes root at its junction with the 
 ground, previously making the ground soft and 
 loose that they may grow more rapidly. 
 
 In many cases where you have fast growing, 
 strong plants, it is better to set them for making 
 runners the spring of the same year you intend 
 setting out, in order to get them more vigorous and 
 uniform. My plan is to select the first good run- 
 ners, lay them in carefully, when fairly rooted, 
 separate, and place in rich soil about two feet apart. 
 They will make uniformly strong plants that will 
 do to set early in August, and even before that 
 time. 
 
 It is only with certain vigorous plants that you 
 can operate in this way, but where it is possible, it 
 is desirable, as your plants will not only be more 
 
12 
 
 vigorous and regular, but will give you berries of 
 larger and more uniform size than by any other 
 process. In any case lay your runners in by 
 making them fast so the wind may not move them, 
 with sufficient room for each, and leave them for 
 the rain to start, or if you are in haste, and not 
 operating upon too large a scale, you may facilitate 
 matters by sprinkling with a watering pot, until 
 the ground is quite wet which will answer the pur- 
 pose equally as well. 
 
 Your runners should invariably be produced from 
 single plants, or rows not over one year old, as the 
 importance of strength and vigor cannot be too 
 strongly enforced, as it frequently makes the differ- 
 ence between a paying and a non-paying crop. We 
 may now prepare for 
 
 TRANSPIiANTING. 
 
 I have always been an earnest advocate of setting 
 out plants early in the season — I am yet impressed 
 with the importance of so doing, as I have invari- 
 ably been successful when pursuing this course — 
 the last of July or first of August, or even sooner 
 if strong plants can be procured. You gain no- 
 thing by setting plants, not sufficiently matured, 
 and in any case set none at all, rather than those 
 that are Weakly, as you may rest assured they will 
 never repay you for your trouble. 
 
 THE DISTANCE OF THE ROWS APART 
 
 depends upon the kind of plant, and the time of 
 planting; also the use you intend making of the 
 
13 
 
 bed the second year. As regards economy, I wonld 
 advise setting single rows, not more than two and 
 a half feet in width between, for large plants, while 
 for those of natnrally small growth, two feet will 
 be found sufficient. 
 
 Of course, the distance will be varied by circum- 
 stances, as where space is of no account and labor 
 not considered ; and again, in gardens where ladies 
 may wish to gather the fruit, such distance would 
 not afford sufficient room — as crinoline is a difficult 
 thing to handle in contracted rows — under such 
 circumstances three or four feet might be desirable. 
 Yet in cultivating for profit, the narrow widths are 
 to be preferred as entailing less labor in proportion 
 to the returns. 
 
 THE DISTANCE OF PLANTS IN THE ROWS 
 
 must now be considered. It being a matter requir- 
 ing change under various circumstances. It is well 
 to understand the plant or plants you may have 
 under cultivation, and ascertain, by trial, their per- 
 formance as planted close together, or some specified 
 distance apart. Serious mistakes are continually 
 made in regard to this matter; many kinds being 
 placed fifteen or tw^enty inches apart, when in fact 
 each plant would bear nearly as many berries with- 
 in three or four inches of each other. There is the 
 greatest possible difference in this respect — some 
 bearing as many berries each, when crowded, as 
 when standing alone; while there is the greatest 
 change in others. As an instance, I have gathered 
 
 2 
 
14 
 
 from a row of Late Prolific's of 32 plants, 15 inches 
 apart in the row : 28 quarts. Crowd one hundred 
 in the same space, and you would not get five quarts 
 from the whole row. Then, again, it is just the re- 
 verse: one called the Brilliant, gave a splendid 
 crop when close together, while separately they 
 were moderate bearers. And so on indefinitely, 
 there can be no general specified distance. 
 
 You must be governed by your plant, the condi- 
 tion of the soil, and the quality or quantity of fruit 
 you may wish. If your object is a great crop, and 
 your ground able to bear it, select a plant that will 
 endure confinement, and place closely together in 
 the rows. If you wish large fruit give more room, 
 and use younger and more vigorous plants; and as 
 a general rule, the later in the season you set them 
 out, the closer you may place them together. 
 
 In transplanting, be careful as to 
 
 DEPTH OF SETTING. 
 
 Plants should never be set with the crowns below 
 the level of the ground, or in condition to allow 
 the heavy rains to cover them with dirt; as it will 
 frequently destroy them altogether. You will find 
 a small leaf near the crown of each plant, which 
 as a general thing will furnish a criterion as to 
 depth. If you are setting out upon a ridge or 
 elevation, you may set a little deeper to allow for 
 washing away of the earth by the rains; but if set- 
 ting upon a level — which I should invariably ad- 
 vise — be sure not to get below the surface especial- 
 
15 
 
 ly iti heavy soils. There is always at the time of 
 setting plants 
 
 DANGER FROM DROUGHT, 
 
 From which there is no safe-guard; but if you set 
 your plants early, you are in time to re-set in case 
 of failure. 
 
 If it so happens that your plants should be seri- 
 ously injured from this cause, it would be well to 
 replace them with those fresh and yigorous. 
 
 If the ground from which you take your plants 
 appears soft and loose, you may remo-ve each plant 
 with a trowel full of earth, allowing the roots to 
 remain as nature placed them. 
 
 If hard and compact, forming a solid ball of 
 earth, it will be liable to remain so and retard the 
 growth of the plant. In case of this kind of trouble, 
 it will be well to let them remain until a cloudy or 
 wet day, or wet spell of weather, and set them 
 without any soil at the roots, and bear in mind 
 that the later you set them out the closer you may 
 place them together. 
 
 SETTING PLANTS IN SEVERE DROUGHT 
 
 is frequently a necessity, some of my very best beds 
 have been set in this way. At such times be careful 
 to disarrange the roots as slightly as possible, allow- 
 ing the earth to remain on them. Set at the same 
 depth or slightly deeper, and press the whole firmly 
 together, but not too hard. 
 
16 
 
 It is presumed your ground is in condition to 
 receive the plants, that is, the manure distributed 
 thoroughly .through it, in the manner previously 
 advised. 
 
 The practice of setting plants over trenches, or 
 making a hole and filling with manure, and placing 
 the plant upon it, cannot be too strongly con- 
 demned, even well rotted manure will seldom be 
 productive of good results. 
 
 MANURING m TIME OF SETTING PLANTS 
 
 Should never-be resorted to in summer; early in 
 the spring or late in the fall it may answer, but 
 never in dry weather. In summer it is almost in- 
 variably detrimental, and under any circumstances, 
 should never be attempted. 
 
 When setting the plant, if not very wet weather, 
 it is well to wet thoroughly around the root, say 
 half a pint of water to each, and the same quantity 
 should be applied daily, morning or evening, as 
 long as they continue to wilt by the heat of the 
 sun. If properly set as directed, they will soon; 
 recover and do well; if not injured by severe drought. 
 You are now to give them the required 
 
 CARE AFTER SETTING, 
 
 Which should be given as soon as weeds or grass 
 make their appearance. You may proceed with the 
 hoe, rake, cultivator, or even plough, if nicely han- 
 dled, before the roots spread much. My own course 
 
17 
 
 has been to rely entirely upon the hoe and rake. 
 I do not like disturbing the ground after the plants 
 are set, yet it is frequently done with good results. 
 For my own beds, I much prefer the hand cultiva- 
 tor to that of the horse, as I do not fancy rough 
 cultivation. 
 
 As soon as the slighest start of weeds is apparent, 
 a few days after setting the plants, rake the whole 
 bed over, removing all stone and rough material, 
 which will leave it in good condition for future cul- 
 tivation; destroying, by this leveling process, the 
 young weeds and grasses, that if allowed to remain 
 long become dangerous; not only by robbing the 
 plant of its nourishment, but by loosening the root 
 by their removal, especially when making their ap- 
 pearance close to the plant, in which case they 
 should be immediately and carefully removed by 
 the fingers. 
 
 If your plants are injured, or stunted by severe 
 drought, it is better to remove them, or such as may 
 be necessary, replacing them with fresh vigorous 
 ones, that will well repay you for the extra trouble. 
 In this case will be found one great advantage of 
 early setting. 
 
 LATE SETTING OUT 
 
 May sometimes produce a very fine crop, I have 
 lately seen a superb crop from plants set between 
 the 10th and 20th of October, yet I would never 
 advise such a proceeding; as under unfavorable cir- 
 cumstances you are likely to fail, especially in such 
 
18 
 
 soils as are likely to be affected by frost; as ground 
 of this character not fairly settled heaves badly, 
 throwing the plants out in a wholesale manner, 
 especially when not well rooted. All beds in this 
 condition should be protected by carefully covering 
 before cold weather affects them; as from this cause 
 alone your plants may be entirely destroyed. In all 
 late setting, for after cultivation — in displacing 
 weeds — do not disturb the ground more than is 
 actually necessary; use the hoe and rake as lightly 
 as possible, allowing the ground to settle and be- 
 come compact, as the limited time will allow, as 
 plants in loose or freshly worked ground invariably 
 suffer most from the action of frost. We may now 
 pay attention to 
 
 MANURIXa FOR WINTER. 
 
 It should not commence too soon, especially when 
 using fresh manure; as uncombined ammonia is 
 liable to injure the plants. If the weather should, 
 be cool, you may commence in September, if not, 
 wait until it is. 
 
 You may commence by applying a small quantity 
 of bone dust, say a small hand full to each plant, 
 if ten or twelve inches apart — if closer not quite so 
 much — distribute near the plant, and cover lightly 
 with earth, or throw some absorbent, such as pow- 
 dered peat or muck over it. You are now ready for 
 
19 
 HEAVY MANURING. 
 
 Which^ if cow manure or compost, may be used to 
 almost any extent, care being taken not to cover 
 the plant. 
 
 Horse manure may be nsed for this purpose, es- 
 pecially in heavy soils; but in all cases I prefer that 
 of the cow spread between the rows, close to the 
 plants, under the foliage if you wish, but not over 
 it. My plan is to spread rapidly between, without 
 touching the plants, from two to four inches in 
 depth. You arejiow 'prepared for 
 
 COVERING FOR WINTER. 
 
 For this purpose, you may use either of the fol- 
 lowing; partially rotten hay, or bedding from 
 manure, or combination of the same, with saw dust; 
 or exhausted tan bark; such as the refuse of an ice 
 house; salt hay; sawdust pure; or if judiciously 
 used fine horse manure. 
 
 Partially decomposed hay from horse manure I 
 prefer, as being mixed more or less with the manure, 
 makes an excellent non-conductor of heat, and yet 
 leaves a sufficient circulation of air to prevent the 
 plant from receiving injury, as is frequently the 
 case from being too closely covered. 
 
 In the spring there is no necessity for its removal, 
 as it will break up under cultivation with the hoe, 
 and yet act as a mulch to protect the fruit from 
 being injured by dirt in case of heavy rains. I sel- 
 dom resort to any of the long kinds of covering, 
 
20 
 
 as I object to its removal in the spring, and the ne- 
 cessity of spreading again before the berries are ripe, 
 in order to keep them clean, making a material 
 addition to the labor. Saw dust, exhausted tan 
 bark, or fine horse manure may be used, but it will 
 require an extra amount of fibrous material to keep 
 your berries out of the dirt in the spring; as cover- 
 ing of this kind will mix more or less with the 
 dirt in cultivation, and spatter badly with the 
 heavy rains. 
 
 Caution must be used in applying tan bark, as it 
 frequently contains poisonous matter in combina- 
 tion for the purpose of tanning; it would be well- 
 to let it remain exposed to the rain for a year or so 
 before using. 
 
 Salt hay may be considered the best covering 
 where no objection is made to its removal for cul- 
 tivation. Of course, under the horse arrangement^ 
 all covering of any length of fibre must necessarily 
 be removed, and as this material does not fill the 
 ground with seed, I consider it preferable. Aside 
 from such objection, any fine fibrous vegetable 
 material will answer. 
 
 Where the plants have been allowed to run to- 
 gether in the rows, the best covering is fine horse 
 manure sprinkled over, leaving the plants partly 
 projecting through, as when so situated they are, 
 in a degree, self protecting, and as the fruit is sel- 
 dom so heavy in proportion, and consequently self- 
 supporting, it will need but slight mulching on the 
 outer edges of the rows to protect its fruit from the 
 dirt. I have beds of strawberries between my rows 
 
21 
 
 of pear trees, that nature attends to as nicely as 
 may be desired. ^When shedding the leaves in the 
 fall, the wind distribntes them around the plants, 
 forming a perfect protection. But I would advise 
 the use of leaves in no other way, as they will mat 
 over the plants in such a way as to prevent the air 
 reaching them, in which condition they are almost 
 sure to perish. 
 
 THE TIME FOR OOVEKINa 
 
 Is just before the ground begins to be affected by 
 frost, as considerable harm may be done to small 
 plants by slight freezing; especially in moist ground, 
 or that recently worked, which, if effected seriously, 
 should be under-drained, previous to setting the 
 plants; allowing this precaution has not been taken, 
 paths or ditches should be made at least one foot 
 below the surface of the bed, not over 20 feet distant 
 from each other, running parallel, with sufficient 
 fall to relieve the bed of all surplus water, and 
 emptying where tlio wash of the bed may not be 
 lost. The bed being now prepared for winter, may 
 rest until necessary to receive 
 
 ATTENTION IN SPRING. 
 
 Which is required as soon as the plants raise 
 their foliage sufficiently to disturb the covering, 
 which may be brushed off the top to relieve it. 
 But where removal of the covering is proposed, 
 and the necessity for cultivation becomes apparent. 
 
22 
 
 by the growth of weeds and grass, the cultivator or 
 spade may be used; but my invariable rule is, to 
 disturb the ground as lightly as possible. Yet I 
 have seen both spade and horse cultivator used with 
 seemingly beneficial results; and the same in regard 
 to even ploughing. 
 
 By some the plan is adopted of spading in the 
 manure, as a preparation for setting out the bed 
 anew, as soon as the berries are gathered, ^which 
 plan 1 have seen work remarkably well. 
 
 Yet I am constrained from my own experience, 
 to repeat my former remark and conclusion; that 
 all serious disturbance of the soil in the spring, is 
 more or less injurious to bearing plants. 
 
 The simple necessity is apparent, of keeping the 
 beds free from weeds and gi'asses, with as slight 
 disturbance as possible. Our next attention is 
 required in 
 
 PICKING. 
 
 As soon as the berry is fairly ripe, which is no 
 easy matter to determine at times, it may be picked. 
 Yet there is not only a difference of opinion in this 
 .matter, but circumstances dictate different courses; 
 some varieties when seemingly ripe, and in just the 
 condition to pick, will gain in aroma and sweetness 
 by remaining upon the vines a day or two longer; 
 while others Avill be entirely ruined by the same 
 course. Black Defiance, for instance, may remain, 
 after receiving its full color, for a period of ten days, 
 and even longer, under the most trying circum- 
 stances, and lose but little of its aroma ; while some 
 
23 
 
 of the soft varieties will perish immediately upon 
 ripening, and even before, in consequence of too 
 mncli rain or heat, and in some cases, from rapid 
 changes, incidental to the strawberry season. Of 
 course, in such cases, the cultivator must be the 
 judge of the existing necessities. 
 
 In many cases, careless and destructive pickers 
 are employed. The berries are crushed by the feet, 
 the vines are mangled and broken down, bearing 
 stems torn off greeu berries and all, or tAvisted and 
 broken, so'that those remaining will not ripen, and 
 the ripe fruit so crushed by careless handling, as to 
 be ruined for market purposes, by the time they 
 arrive at their destination. All troubles of this 
 character must be carefully looked after by the cul- 
 tivator, in order that the crop may be a success. 
 And here let me remark, for the benefit of consum- 
 ers as well as producers, that the strawberry should 
 invariably be picked with the calyx remaining upon 
 the berry, as nearly all lose their aroma in a very 
 short time after parting with it. It is to the fruit, 
 what the cork is to the bottle of champagne. 
 
 The- crop having been gathered, preparation may 
 now be made for 
 
 CULTIVATING THE SAME PLOT 
 ANOTHER YEAR. 
 
 There are various dispositions in this respect, 
 that of the least trouble, is to allow the runners to 
 take root near the paient plant, making a row of 
 ten or twelve inches in width, or more, depending 
 
24 
 
 upon the width of the original rows. Another is to 
 run a small plough between the rows, malnng a 
 furrow large enough to receive manure, without 
 throwing the dirt over your plants. Fill the same 
 with compost or cow manure, level the dirt over 
 it, and it is ready to lay the runners upon. 
 
 A better way is to remove every other row; then 
 prepare the vacant space by ploughing and manur- 
 ing, as directed, allowing the remaining rows to 
 make beds of plants, two feet or two and a half 
 wide, according to the original width, by laying or 
 distributing the runners over it, or laying them in. 
 
 In preparing beds of this kind, after the new 
 plants are well rooted, you are to take out the old 
 plants, while the space occupied by them, serves as 
 a path between the new ones. It is always well to 
 remove the old plants, after they have served the 
 purpose of making new ones. 
 
 if as before proposed the original rows were two, 
 or tw^o and a half feet apart, and well manured for 
 winter, if you prefer, you may fork the manure 
 in between the rows, allowing the new plants to 
 occupy the new space, the same as when running 
 the furrow and manuring. 
 
 Of the two plans, I much prefer the latter for 
 small beds; having adopted this one for the last few 
 years, and found it very successful. By keeping the 
 rows very narrow, almost to a single row, you may 
 continue in this way for years, manuring between 
 the roAVS for winter, and using bone dust as before 
 advised. 
 
 Yet when cultivators prefer, as I do, the largest 
 
25 
 
 berries, it is better to use new ground each year, 
 making the bed, as at tirst proposed, one year in 
 advance, and setting single rows. 
 
 This plan I should invariably pursue, if I had 
 facilities for so doing, as the ground is left in superb 
 condition for anything, and you may return to it, 
 in a year or two, if properly treated, with every 
 prospect of success. 
 
 One objection, and a very serious one, is that 
 grounds occupied by strawberries, year after year, 
 are liable to be infested with the grub, or insects 
 peculiar to the plant, desti'oying them to such an 
 extent, as to seriously interfere, and sometimes, as 
 in case of severe drought, ruin the whole bed. 
 For which reason, and the favorable action of new 
 ground, I prefer a new bed each year. We may 
 now pay attention to 
 
 PLANTS AND THEIR PECULIARITIES, 
 
 Of which it is well to be able to discrimmate, as to 
 their liability to thrive under the circumstances in 
 which they are placed. The first of which we will 
 denominate the 
 
 RAPID GROWER, 
 
 It is the one adapted to heavy soils, such as blue 
 and yellow clay, that sometimes require stimulants, 
 being always retentive, and often sluggish in action. 
 As all soils of this character, require a rapidly 
 maturing plant; it will be well for the cultivator to 
 
 3 
 
26 
 
 step carefully before venturing too far, and be sure 
 of the adaptation of the plant to its position. The 
 want of such knowledge, being a frequent cause of 
 failure. It being advisable in any case, to test vari- 
 ous kinds in comparison, upon a small scale, for two 
 years, before planting' extensively, as in many cases 
 valuable plants will not accommodate themselves to 
 the sudden change in soil and climate, that is re- 
 quired by removal under widely different circum- 
 stances, in so short a time as one year. 
 
 It is unfair and unjust to suppose, that a plant 
 must do well when removed to conditions directly 
 opposed to those of previous years of occupation, 
 and to which it had become adapted. 
 
 In many cases, what might prove the most valu- 
 able of all, is thrown out and condemned, simply 
 because it did not do well at the first trial, which in 
 nine cases out of ten, may be attributed to some 
 other cause than the right one. The experienced 
 cultivator may be able to determine in a short time, 
 the requisites of a plant for a new position. If he 
 finds it a rapid grower, making strong vigorous 
 foliage, and a stout crown, or additional ones as 
 scapes, he may be satisfied, so far it is right; if its 
 performance in way of fruit is s^itisfactory, that is 
 generally sufficient. Still it may not give such re- 
 sults the first year, and yet perform splendidly the 
 second or third year; and even those that are satis- 
 factory at first, may not always remain so, depending 
 upon material sometimes in new ground that may 
 be easily exhausted, and difficult to supply. It is 
 
27 
 
 always well to test new plants in various positions, 
 before conclusion. 
 
 COLD CLAY SOIL. 
 
 As a general thing, rapidly growing vigorous 
 plants, are a necessity in a soil of this character, 
 while a slow grower may do wonders in a light rapid 
 soil, in a warm climate, and bearing immense ber- 
 ries, it may become worthless in a cold slow one, 
 making at the start, little or no preparation for 
 fruit, being stunted and worthless in both fruit and 
 foliage. Again I have seen the most reliable varie- 
 ties in clay soil and cold climate, when transferred 
 to light soil and a warm one, run to excess of 
 foliage, and produce nothing in way of fruit. 
 
 The only way of getting at the matter properly, 
 is to try various kinds, giving sufficient time to 
 adapt themselves to the necessary changes. 
 
 LIGHT SOILS. 
 
 It is frequently the case, that plants are con- 
 demned as being weak in light soils. In my various 
 experiments in order to test the peculiar effects of 
 different manures upon plants, I have frequently 
 had my attention called to the evil effects of making 
 the soil too light and porous for strawberries. 
 
 Finding those placed in a bed made very light 
 with horse manure did not do well, I at once sus- 
 pected the cause; the plants appeared weakly, and 
 would make no foliage, although considered vigo- 
 
28 
 
 rous growers, upon removing them, I found they 
 had made immense roots, and although I had raised 
 the finest crops previously in the same bed, I found 
 it useless to undertake to get fruit, or even respect- 
 able plants, from it for years after. 
 
 Not being fully satisfied in regard to the matter, 
 I set various plants near my stable, where the soil 
 had been made exceedingly light with the same 
 material, notwithstanding it was originally a heavy 
 yellow clay; although very rich, the foliage would 
 not grow. 
 
 I allowed them to remain one year; upon remov- 
 ing them by pulling them up, I found the roots 
 came easily out of this light, feathery material, and 
 while the plants were yet in my hand, the roots 
 were still fast in the ground, eight feet distant, and 
 how much longer they may have been, I did not 
 take the trouble to ascertain, that length being 
 quite sufficient. The only conclusion that could 
 be arrived at was, that the strawberry requires soil 
 that will cling closely to the root, that its absorbents 
 may be able to act. And so frequently has this 
 same trouble presented itself to my notice, that I 
 am thoroughly convinced, and have been for years, 
 that all soils made light with excess of vegetable 
 fibre, are unfit (while in such condition), for 
 strawberry culture. 
 
 SETTING PLANTS IN LIGHT SOILS. 
 
 It is generally on account of the trouble last 
 mentioned, that cultivators insist upon setting 
 
29 
 
 plants in the spring, finding it almost impossible 
 to make them root in warm weather. In this case, 
 the plant is enabled to sustain itself, under mode- 
 rate warmth, and sufficient moisture, where ii could 
 not endure the heat and drought of summer, and 
 the young plants upon which the crop depends, 
 are supported by the parent plant while rooting. 
 In all cases where plants are 
 
 WEAK IN FOLIAGE, 
 
 And still remahi so, after having sufficient time to 
 adapt themselves to their new position; I would 
 not advise their use to any great extent, until satis- 
 fied more fully of their endurance; although you 
 may at first, under favorable circumstances, get a 
 fine crop of large berries. Yet such plants are not 
 to be depended upon; frequently (not in all cases), 
 being deficient in vitality. Before condemning 
 such plants, be sure the fault is not your own, and 
 that your soil may not be deficient in material, 
 necessary to sustain them. 
 
 NARROW LEAF OR SLENDER FOLIAGE, 
 
 Such as have long, light leaf stalks, should be 
 thrown out in any case, as detestable under any 
 circumstances, being unable to endure wind or 
 storm, lopping down, and exposing the fruit, to 
 both sun and rain. Even under favorable circum- 
 
30 
 
 stances, when ripening fine fruit, they are seldom 
 reliable, and had better be dispensed with. Not 
 so with 
 
 THE STOUT LEAF VIGOROUS GROWER, 
 
 They are reliable, if accompanied by a correspond- 
 ing amount of fruit; being enabled by their great 
 vitality to endure climatic changes, and guard their 
 fruit, from both rain and sun, with a good, stout 
 leaf stalk, defying the wind, and perfecting its fruit 
 almost invariably. Yet such plants sometimes, 
 have their drawbacks, and among them, is a dispo- 
 sition to an excess of 
 
 RUNNERS BEFORE FRUITING, 
 
 Or rapid running, which may be produced by using 
 stimulants too freely, in which case, it is not to be 
 considered a defect; yet when naturally disposed to 
 do so, is a very serious one, absorbing its strength, 
 and weakening itself, to such an extent, as to be 
 unreliable under unfavorable circumstances. These 
 latter are not, however, to be confounded with those 
 able to endure the strain, and still maintain their 
 strength; especially when bearing their fruit large 
 to the end, and ripening it well. In such cases, it 
 matters but little, at what time the runners may 
 appear, and if in addition, the old plant maintains 
 its original foliage, or throws up a new set of strong, 
 vigorous looking leaves; depend upon it, that is 
 
31 
 
 your plant for cultivation, and will generally be 
 found perfectly reliable. 
 
 it is not always safe to put too much dependance 
 upon 
 
 SLOW EUNNERS, 
 
 As it is frequently the case that they are deficient 
 in vitality, and being exhausted by bearing fruit, 
 do not possess sufficient strength to make them. 
 When united with strength and endurance, accom- 
 panied by clean, unspotted fohage, long after fruit- 
 ing, it may be considered an advantage. 
 
 I have been forced to the conclusion that plants 
 
 VITALITY AND ENDURANCE, 
 
 As they retain their foliage after bearing, and 
 making new plants; but where the parent seems 
 exhausted upon its making runners, and as the 
 foremost advance, those behind are found to lan- 
 guish, being unable to bear the strain of the new 
 plant. You may be sure of one of two things; 
 that your soil is sadly wanting in material necessary 
 to sustain a naturally vigorous grower, or that you 
 are cultivating a plant unsuited to your position. 
 Be sure your soil is not wanting in this respect, 
 before condemning on this account. It not unfre- 
 quently happens, that the bed is completely ex- 
 hausted by a heavy crop of fruit, which may have 
 been perfected by stimulants, or sustained by some 
 temporary allowance, such as light surface, or 
 liquid manuring, or that the amount of manure in 
 
32 
 
 the first place was insufficient. In the latter case, 
 the most 
 
 RELIABLE PLANTS 
 
 Will drain the soil completely, searching out every 
 particle of nutriment to perfect its fruit, and when 
 its end is accomplished in that direction, and under 
 such circumstances, it is very plain that the plant 
 can no longer sustain itself; and such as might 
 have shown vigor and strength, give out at once, 
 with a feeble effort at self resuscitation. 
 
 Many of the best plants are condemned under 
 just such circumstances, but few cultivators being 
 aware of the amount of material necessary in the 
 soil, to sustain plants bearing heavy crops of berries. 
 This trouble is more apparent, and more likely to 
 be encountered, in light soils, they being more rapid 
 in action, or as I should say, the plants acting more 
 rapidly, in consequence of facilities offered the 
 roots for penetrating, and easily absorbing its food- 
 The same result may be anticipated, and more sure- 
 ly encountered, by such cultivation in easily ex- 
 hausted soils. 
 
 Many of our best and rapidly growing plants, 
 require a rich, retentive, or clay soil, with the ap- 
 plication of but little stimulating matter, and 
 withal, it may be set down as an invariable rule, 
 that all plants of great value, require 
 
 VERY RICH GROUND, 
 
 Being exhorbitant feeders, exhausting the ground 
 rapidly, and producing in proportion, as they are 
 
33 
 
 supplied with the necessary material. Serious mis- 
 takes are made iu this resp ct, ms some soils are 
 deficient in carbon, and wanting in material to sus- 
 tain and develop its fruit, and generally of a light 
 character, and rapid in action, are wholly unfit for 
 such purpose; while m such condition, and it is 
 not unusual to see people apply bone dust, pou- 
 drette, or fresh horse manure, where stimulating 
 matter is wholly unnecessary, and eyen hurtful, 
 producing a luxuriant growth of foliage, with a 
 scant supply of fruit. The crop being a failure, 
 under such conditions, the plant is considered a 
 worthless one by the cultivator, who in nine cases 
 out of ten, is unable to determine where the trouble 
 exists. We sometimes hear of fine crops of berries 
 being raised npon 
 
 POOR GROUND, 
 
 Which may be rich in essentials for producing fruit, 
 without sufficient stimulating matter to make a re- 
 spectable show of foliage ; the natural inference is, 
 that the plant must be a fine bearing one, not dis- 
 posed to run to vine. Frequently the whole plot 
 will be exhausted in a year or two, and the advocate 
 of poor ground cultivation is at a loss to determine 
 why he succeeds so poorly under similar circum- 
 stances, on the same plot. It is easily perceived, 
 that what may have been considered poor soil, and 
 in reality is so for some purposes, is the most de- 
 sirable for this one, and in most cases success may 
 
34 
 
 be readily accounted for. Instances of this kind 
 are not unusual, — as a spot may be selected, to all 
 appearance as poor as possible, at the surface, un- 
 derlying which is a bed or layer of peat or black 
 muck, possessing an almost unlimited supply of 
 fruit producing material ; or what may have been 
 the bottom of a fish pond, the surface of which 
 may appear poor, yet remaining almost inexhaust- 
 ible for our purpose. In such cases, the plant 
 receives, the credit, and is highly praised, while, 
 under different circumstances, the same kind is 
 condemned as unfit for cultivation. 
 
 An enviable reputation is sometimes gained for a 
 worthless plant under accidental combinations, 
 while some of great value may be considered as 
 worthless from the same cause. 
 
 PLANTS AS EFFECTED BY CLIMATE. 
 
 The most valuable plants may suffer from severe 
 and almost incessant rains, destroying or scalding 
 their foliage. In view of the fact that such a state 
 of things is unusual at the time of the year that 
 we may expect dry weather, such quality may not 
 be considered an objection, especially as such plants, 
 generally, withstand the opposite extreme in way 
 of drought. While those of this description may not 
 do well for a wet and warm climate, yet would be 
 the very thing to withstand the severe drought of 
 our summers, making a good growth at the most 
 desirable time ; while a plant of the opposite char- 
 
35 
 
 acter could not be depended upon at all, from its 
 inability to endure dry weather, usual to our climate 
 at time of setting out. These peculiar effects are 
 mentioned that cultivators may not be over hasty 
 in their decisions regarding plants as fitted for 
 peculiar positions. 
 
 TESTING & CHOOSING FOR LOCALITIES. 
 
 A nice discrimination is required, by trial, of 
 numerous varieties, to be enabled to select such as 
 may be fitted by nature to occupy certain positions, 
 giving the best returns in accordance with proper 
 cultivation. 
 
 The cost being trifling, when compared with 
 results, while those so engaged are laying the 
 foundation for almost invariable success. 
 
 QUALITIES EEQUIEED. 
 
 One ot the most desirable qualities in any plant 
 is endurance, or, in other words, strength and 
 vitality ; that may be manured to any extent, as 
 before advised ; possessing sufficient foliage to pro- 
 tect its fruit, making vigorous plants, capable of 
 resisting drought ; and making headway against 
 minor troubles, and insuring a successful return in 
 pi'oportion to its proper cultivation. 
 
 Various qualities being desirable under different 
 circumstances, each must choose according to the 
 position they may occupy. One being far from 
 market, may require a berry that will endure rongh 
 
36 
 
 carriage; while such quahty may not be desirable 
 to one near a market. Again, for family purposes, 
 flavor miglit be the main consideration, and yet to 
 an extensive cultivator for market, it might be 
 considered as of no account, — the public, as con- 
 sumers, having but little discrimination in this 
 respect. And so on indefinitely, each must be the 
 judge of the most desirable qualities, and be enabled 
 to make such tests properly, and accordingly. 
 
 EXCEPTIONS. 
 
 Although, as a general rule, the most vigorous 
 plant is the most desirable, yet there are exceptional 
 cases. For instance, where an experienced cultivator 
 is enabled, by being thoroughly posted, to mannge 
 a very valuable but difficult plant, possessing 
 peculiar properties, — producing results beyond those 
 less favored, by a knowledge of the necessities and 
 conditions of such plants. And as I before re- 
 marked, people must choose according to the qual- 
 ities they prefer. One may require a very rich 
 berry to eat directly from the vine ; another one 
 that will remain a long time without injury, until 
 they are ready to use it for the table, or to reserve 
 to send away at stated periods ; and I might con- 
 tinue in this way indefinitely, but of those prefer- 
 able for particular purposes, each must be the judge 
 of necessary qualities. 
 
 NEW GEOUND PREFERRED. 
 
 The best results are almost invariably produced 
 upoji ground not before occupied by strawberries. 
 
37 
 
 or at least for some years ; for this reason I would 
 advise those not well acquainted with all the re- 
 quirements, if possible, to select space for a new 
 bed every two years, not before so occupied ; es- 
 pecially, where a great proportion of the largest 
 and finest berries are required, with less trouble in 
 picking, weeding, &c. Although the return may 
 not be so great, in way of quantity, for market 
 purposes, yet for family use they are much more 
 satisfactory ; and, if prepared properly in ad- 
 vance, there is not the same trouble in eradicating 
 obnoxious weeds aud grasses. Another objection 
 to continuous cultivation is, that the ground is 
 likely to become infested with that pest 
 
 THE GKUB, 
 
 from which I have never been able to protect my- 
 self, except by removal to another plot. It may 
 not be generally understood that there are two dis- 
 tinct species of this pest, yet so much alike in 
 appearance as to be a difficult matter to distinguish 
 between them, the one apparently harmless, the 
 other the greatest nuisance existing, as an enemy 
 of the strawberry grower. The difference in ap- 
 pearance is that the destructive one being rather 
 slender in comparison than the other, and although 
 attaining nearly the same size, yet never quite so 
 stout and bulky. The one living entirely upon 
 dead matter ; and the other entirely upon that 
 alive. The non-destructive or harmless one, is 
 
 4 
 
38 
 
 found in manure, while the other is making its 
 ravages in the strawberry beds and grass lands, 
 destroying the roots of both to such an extent, in 
 time of drought, as to nearly ruin them, and would 
 entirely, if it was not for their power of recuper- 
 ation in making roots to replace those destroyed. 
 For reasons of this character, I prefer setting out 
 a new bed each year ; especially, when desiring 
 quality in preference to quantity ; although doubt- 
 ful if the new beds can be made to equal those 
 broad rows of the second year in way of returns in 
 cash. We may now notice the prominent or 
 
 GENEKAL CAUSES OF FAILUEE. 
 
 The first of which lies in the attempt to found a 
 new bed upon an old one. Although 
 
 OONTINIOUS CULTIVATION 
 
 may be successful for years under certain circum- 
 stances, such as occupying space between the rows ' 
 well manured and prepared by the winter's coat, 
 as previously advised. The plants in this case 
 occupy partially new ground, and are supported by 
 the parent plant until firmly rooted. Not so with 
 the old bed, ploughed or dug up and newly set 
 with detached plants. 
 
 This plan should never in any case be resorted 
 to, although there are instances of successful culti- 
 vation, among those thoroughly conversant with 
 
39 
 
 the matter, yet as a general thing, nine hundred 
 and ninety-nine in a thousand will result in failure. 
 The most frequent cases of this kind occur in 
 garden culture. So frequently the complaint is made 
 ** my bed in the garden did not do so well, though 
 I manured and took the greatest pains with it;" 
 and very often the best plants upon trial are con- 
 demned under such circumstances. Now my advice 
 in regard to this matter is, if you can find no other 
 place than an old strawberry bed to set out a new 
 one upon, set out none at all, for, do as you will, 
 you are likely to fail under the most favorable 
 circumstances. Next in order is the trouble arise- 
 ing from the indiscriminate use of 
 
 FRESH MANURES 
 
 just previous to setting out the plants — and especial- 
 ly horse manure, and such as decompose rapidly, 
 throwing oft' ammonia to such an extent as to suffo- 
 cate the plant. Not only is the root destroyed by 
 rapid . decomposition or disorganization of such 
 material, but the plant being deprived of suste- 
 nance that has been furnished by the parent plant, 
 as soon as separated, is placed in a position to be 
 ruined by contact with such gasses, as in its par- 
 tially helpless condition it is unable to endure. It 
 is easy to perceive the difference, in way of endu- 
 rance, of a new plant while connected and drawing 
 its nourishment from the parent, and one separated 
 and thrown upon its own resources, as at such time, 
 
40 
 
 the extreme heat is, in itself, sufficient for the plant 
 to overcome, independently of such draw-backs as 
 enumerated above. Another prolific source of 
 failure arises from 
 
 MAKING THE SOIL TO LIGHT 
 
 with an excess of vegetable fibre, even such as 
 muck or peat — which in a clay soil is invaluable, 
 — is, in a light soil, of no value in most cases ; and 
 where used to excess (in such soils) is detrimental, 
 for the reason as before stated, that the strawberry 
 root requires material that will cling closely to it 
 enabling its absorbents to act effectually. The 
 same trouble exists in the use of horse manure, 
 especially in light soils — and even in heavy soils, 
 when used to excess, is ruinous in its action for 
 present purposes. 
 
 Yet when perfectly and thoroughly rotted, and 
 becoming of a pasty consistency, the plot may 
 again be used successfully. When in such con- 
 dition time and trial can alone determine, as perfect 
 disorganization varies materially under different 
 circumstances. An old garden spot is generally in 
 such condition, and if not previously occupied by 
 strawberries, will give a superb crop. The same 
 in regard to various pieces of new land, rich in 
 both vegetable and mineral matter, will frequently 
 produce astonishing results, leaving the novice to 
 wonder why, with all his manuring, he has never 
 been able to produce similar results since his first 
 
41 
 
 trial. It frequently happens that sand occupies the 
 surface beyond the requirements of cultivation, in 
 which case, such are termed 
 
 LEACHY SOILS, 
 
 and may be considered the poorest and most un- 
 profitable of all ; yet if clay can be reached with- 
 out great expense, they may be greatly benefited by 
 a liberal supply of the same, and for lands of this 
 character it is well to compost all manures with 
 clay as an absorbent. 
 
 STIMULANTS IN WARM WEATHER 
 
 should never be used, especially upon poor ground, 
 — where it is, apparently, most needed. The plants 
 not being strong and of slow growth, the conclusion 
 is they should be hurried or pushed ahead. When 
 in this condition, they are unable to endure the 
 action of the gasses arising from such material, 
 and are consequently injured or destroyed alto- 
 gether. Guano, night soil, fresh horse manure, or 
 those that throw off ammonia rapidly, should be 
 used with great discretion in warm weather, or not 
 at all; even with absorbents they require to be used 
 with caution, and are generally productive of more 
 harm than benefit, — but may be used to advantage 
 later in the season. My own plan is never to use 
 them, except in very cool weather, covering them 
 with some absorbent (as before advised) for sup- 
 
42 
 
 plying the material required by the plant in the 
 spring. Another great mistake is in allowing the 
 
 WEEDS AND GRASS 
 
 to make sufficient growth to injure the plant by 
 their removal. If the ground is disturbed by the 
 hoe or rake upon their first appearance, or while 
 very young it will be found a very easy matter to keep 
 them down, and retain the plants and bed in nice 
 condition; but if neglected to long it not only en- 
 tails greater labor, but may destroy your prospect 
 for a fine crop, by disturbing your plants, 
 proving such a laborious process, that you will 
 wish you had never attempted raising a bed of 
 strawberries at all, when by a moderate amount 
 of labor at the right time all this trouble and irri- 
 tation might have been avoided. 
 
 It is often the case that every care is taken to 
 prepare a bed for the reception of 
 
 WEAKLY OR NEGLECTED PLANTS, 
 
 depending entirely upon the strength of the soil to 
 make them grow. This is a serious mistake from 
 whxch the cultivator should be carefully guarded, 
 very often is it the case from this cause alone the 
 crop is only one half, or one third, what it should 
 have been, had the plants been strong and vigor- 
 ous. I do not refer to young or small plants, if 
 showing sufficient vigor, as they will often do 
 
43 
 
 better than those left too long, but to those appear- 
 ing weakly, be the cause what it may. I have in- 
 variably been successful in proportion as I have 
 avoided 
 
 SETTING PLANTS LATE IN THE SEASON, 
 
 Although some kinds do not require the same 
 length of time to perfect their germs as others, 
 still it is best to give them all sufficient time, and 
 by setting early you will be the gainer. 
 
 My best results have always been from setting 
 my plants in Jialy and August; although fine crops 
 have been raised by setting as late as the first of 
 October, I should never advise such a course, or 
 pursue it, except as a matter of compulsion. 
 
 I have often heard this complaint; " I have set 
 my plants out too early, they have got their growth 
 and are failing." Indifferent varieties may do so, 
 but first class plants never, unless material is want- 
 ing in the ground to support them; in this case, 
 all are liable to such trouble, it being unreasonable 
 to suppose, that strength can be sustained without 
 sufficient nourishment. Again, you will find plants 
 under favorable circumstances, to have made a su- 
 perb growth, sometimes in an old bed, the result of 
 stimulating ; but when the time arrives for pre- 
 paring their germs in the fall, will present the 
 appearance of premature old age, either from ex- 
 hausted ground, or from the fact of the necessary 
 material to support it never having been applied; 
 
44 
 
 and here let me caution all cultivators, against the 
 excessive use of all 
 
 STIMULATING MATTER, 
 
 Such as contain a great amount of ammonia; or 
 nitrogen in its various combinations. Among these 
 as prominent, are guano, bone dust, some of those 
 termed phosphates, hen manure, night soil, pou- 
 drette, urine, and all of this character, although 
 very useful in their proper place, are detrimental 
 when out of it, and may even become deleterious, 
 when used to excess. They may be found very use- 
 ful in heavy compact soils, cold and slow in action, 
 and especially those well impregnated with carbon 
 in any form, such as black muck or peat, or old 
 manures, that may have lost a great proportion of 
 its stimulating property, as is often the case with 
 those not composted; when used to any extent in 
 the last mentioned soils, may be accompanied by 
 stimulants, and great advantages derived from their 
 action. It is well, in any event before using freely, 
 to be sure you have sufficient carbon in some form, 
 in the soil, to keep pace with the growth of plant 
 produced by the former. The invariable effect of 
 excess of stimulants, (when the plant is able to en- 
 dure them), is foliage without fruit, or in such 
 proportion, as fruit producing material may accom- 
 pany it. 
 
 ACID IN THE SOIL. 
 
 Soils of the last named character may contain acid in 
 excess, and are termed sour, which is often the case 
 
45 
 with low, wet, undrained lands. In the preparation 
 of such for strawberry purposes, it is well to use 
 alkalies in proportion as they may be necessary. 
 Lime, wood ashes, plaster, &c., with thorough 
 drainage, and frequent ploughing, may be made 
 very productive. 
 
 It will sometimes occur, even under the best laid 
 plans, that plants may suffer from intense heat, 
 and sometimes be destroyed, the 
 
 EFFECT OF DROUGHT, 
 
 At the proper time for setting plants, we are likely 
 to meet with trouble of this kind. 
 
 When setting plants in summer, there is more or 
 less danger of continued dry weather; and as we 
 are unable to determine when it may come upon us, 
 it is best to prepare for such an emergency, by set- 
 the plants as early as may be consistent with the 
 strength of the new runners. In well prepared 
 ground, with vigorous plants, the setting of the 
 new bed may commence early in July, and continue 
 until the first of September, if the weather will allow, 
 it may be necessary to continue until cold weather 
 sets in; but I should prefer to finish invariably by 
 the first of September, if a large crop was the in- 
 tention at the start. In case of failure of the plants 
 by protracted drought, you may have an opportu- 
 nity to reset in time for a good crop. With failure 
 from this cause, in late setting, you are helpless. 
 As before advised, when setting in dry weather, I 
 prefer the plants with the earth around them, if 
 
46 
 
 the soil from which they are taken be loose and 
 mellow, if not, there is no alternative but to wait 
 for wet weather, and set them out without the earth. 
 The greatest trouble I have had to contend with 
 in setting new beds, has been the 
 
 GRUB DESTROYING THE ROOT, 
 
 And from which I have never been able to protect 
 myself. Salt I believe will destroy them; but as 
 danger exists of killing, or injuring the plants by 
 its use, I prefer replacing those so destroyed, having 
 found no effectual manner of exterminating this 
 pest. 
 
 There are but few insects, aside from the one 
 mentioned, that are troublesome, with one excep- 
 tion, they may be dispensed with as unnecessary of 
 notice. This exception is a small boring worm, 
 about the size of a small pin, half or three-quarters 
 of an inch in length, of dark brown color. Its 
 action is to bore through the crown of the plant, 
 either destroying or injuring it to such an extent 
 as to be unfit to remain. Fortunately this insect 
 is not very numerous, and as no cure has been 
 found for it, we can only supply the place of the 
 plants destroyed. 
 
 CHANGE OF POSITION 
 
 may sometimes be detrimental. It is well, not only 
 for this reason, but as a matter of convenience, to 
 raise your new plants near your proposed bed, or 
 
47 
 
 ill similar soil ; it being well to determine in ad- 
 vance, if soil and plants are suited to one another, 
 as too great a change may produce unfavorable 
 results, especially when brought from a great dis- 
 tance — at times doing poorly at first, yet perform- 
 ing splendidly when thoroughly acclimated and 
 and used to the soil. In preparing your bed, atten- 
 tion must be paid to drainage, otherwise your plants 
 may suffer by the washing of dirt over them, or 
 away from them, and also be in danger of being 
 thrown out by the frost. Even if underdrained, if 
 the position should demand it, provision should 
 be made for surface water in excess, by such depth 
 of path around, as the necessities may require. 
 
 PROTECTION NECESSARY FROM ACTION 
 BY FROST. 
 
 In beds, properly prepared in well drained lands, 
 there may be no necessity for protection from frost 
 by covering with any material; the soil being 
 sufficiently light and dry as to remain without 
 heaving or throwing the plant above its original 
 position, or out of the ground altogether. But 
 this will not answer in clay soils, many of this 
 character being the most retentive, and valuable 
 for continuous cultivation, will need a good cover 
 of from one half to an inch in depth, in order to 
 protect them thoroughly. In many of these, with 
 advantage in way of drainage, and with good cul- 
 tivation, it might appear that no necessity existed 
 
48 
 
 for covering in certain winters, from the fact of 
 snow lying upon them nearly all the time, neces- 
 sarily protecting them as nicely as may be desired . 
 It may happen that a series of favorable winters 
 will induce the cultivator to wholly neglect, or 
 cover very slightly, as his plants has seldom suffered. 
 While in such condition, a winter unfavorable from 
 the absence of snow, and the efiect of continual 
 freezing and thawing, has stolen the march upon 
 him, and being unusually severe and trying, upon 
 examination in the spring he finds his beds nearly 
 or quite ruined. For this condition of things it 
 will be well to prepare, and if the nature of the 
 soil is such as to be effected seriously by any winter, 
 it would be safe to cover regularly and invariably, 
 as even in porous soils plants are sometimes in- 
 jured that are left unprotected, to a greater degree 
 than many would imagine. 
 
 In those grounds where covering may be neces- 
 sary, where the rows may be closely together, I 
 would advise covering with salt hay, or similar 
 loose material, over the whole surface, not only as 
 being more effectual, but retaining its place better, 
 being less liable to disturbance from wind. 
 
 Regarding the liability to injury in winter, it 
 must be acknowledged, that light soils have an ad- 
 vantage in this respect; as but slight necessity 
 exists for care at such time. 
 
 ADVANTAGES OF LIGHT & HEAVY SOILS. 
 
 It is no easy matter to determine which character 
 of soil should be preferred for cultivation of the 
 
40 
 
 strawberry, so much depending upon the natural 
 advantages in certain localities for manuring, in 
 way of procuring material peculiarly fitted to the 
 plant, and its necessities. 
 
 In many respects the ad vantages lie on one side, 
 while upon the other, they may be fully equal in 
 certain respects, each depending in a great measure 
 upon the surroundings and dispositions of those 
 so engaged. While, lor cei'tain reasons as presented, 
 I may prefer a stiff clay soil, yet I am well aware 
 of the natural advantages of a light one, and shall 
 endeavor to give, impartially, the credit due each. 
 
 For continuous cultivation, I prefer, most deci- 
 dedly, a stiff clay soil ; as the strawberry, in most 
 cases, will require very rich ground, it is easily 
 perceived that a soil of this character will absorb 
 and retain a greater amount of material necessary 
 to supply the demand made by such exhorbitant 
 feeders ; being very retentive, it seldom loses, either 
 by evaporation or drainage, enabling you to apply 
 manure almost indefinitely; without the evil effects 
 arising from a soil too light; and as the most neces- 
 sary material in its cheapest forms is light; it is 
 apparent, that this matter must be limited in such 
 soils. 
 
 In all cultivation of the strawberry, with the 
 desire for a heavy crop of fruit, it is a matter of 
 necessity, that the soil be well supplied wdth carbon, 
 this material existing as the main component in 
 black muck or peat, and the manure as before ad- 
 vised for general use; such being light in themselves 
 when applied in such quantities as may be necessary 
 
50 
 
 for the supply, and development of the berries, and 
 continued cultivation, it may at once be seen 
 that a large amount of such material would not 
 answer in a light soil, as it is almost invariably a 
 difficult matter to make the plants grow in propor- 
 tion as the ground is made too light with it; and 
 while such material may be detrimental in such 
 cases, it is just the reverse in heavy soils. 
 
 Year after year, heavy applications may be made, 
 and still the heavy clay may retain it without be- 
 coming sufficiently light and porous to interfere 
 with the growth of the plant, and yet become 
 sufficiently so to work pleasantly — continually im- 
 proving in such respect — and when used no longer 
 for this pui"pose, will be found to have retained all 
 the material not exhausted by the strawberry. It 
 is at once apparent, that for continuous cultivation 
 with the expectation of heavy crops of berries that 
 a clay soil is a necessity. On the other hand a 
 light soil may be preferred by many for the ease 
 and pleasure with which it may be worked, being 
 less compact and more easily handled, generally 
 producing a fine crop the first year, with much less 
 trouble in the cultivation, and scarcely any danger 
 of heaving or being destroyed by frost. 
 
 Still it must be born in mind, that rotation of 
 crops is a necessity in this case. I would not ad- 
 vise the continuation of the same plot more than 
 two years, — the first being well prepared with 
 manure that will not lighten the soil to much, de- 
 pending upon heavy mulching for the second year 
 of cultivatition. 
 
51 
 
 It may be considered as a certainty, that it is not 
 safe to depend upon a crop, after the expiration of 
 this term, in light soils. Yet in this, as in all others, 
 there are exceptional cases, as before mentioned, by 
 an almost inexhaustible supply underlying the bed, 
 which may not be perceptible to those having but 
 slight experience: and even to those that have, a 
 combination of circumstances may produce such 
 an effect as will sometimes puzzle the most ex- 
 perienced. 
 
 In conclusion let me repeat the one piece of ad- 
 vice most necessary — keep your beds clean and free 
 from weeds and grass, by timely attention, and 
 careful setting in time of drought, and proper at- 
 tention to advice herein given, and you will be sure 
 to succeed. 
 
 E. W. DURAND , 
 
OOiSTTEIs'TS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 MANURE AND ITS APPLICATION, 8 
 
 Compost. 
 
 Material necessary. 
 
 Construction ot the heap. 
 
 Absorbents, use of. 
 
 Compared effects of various kinds. 
 
 The best and most reliable. 
 
 Fresh manure, the use of. 
 
 THE PREPARATION OF THE GROUND, 10 
 
 Time required. 
 
 Amount of manure required. 
 
 Application. 
 
 Ploughing, when necessary. 
 
 PREPARING THE PLANTS, . . 11 
 
 Laying in. 
 
 Strong plants, treatment of. 
 
 Healthy plants, importance of. 
 
 TRANSPLANTING, . • . . . . 12 
 
 Early setting. 
 
 Weakly plants, advice as to. 
 
 Late setting. 
 
54 
 
 PAGE 
 
 THE DISTANCE OF THE HOWS APART, 12 
 
 Various widths necessary. 
 Economy in cultivation. 
 Large and small plants. 
 Family beds, widtJi of rows. 
 Single or double rows. 
 
 THE DISTANCE OF PLANTS IN THE 
 
 EOWS, 13 
 
 How to ascertain. 
 
 Trials necessary to determine. 
 
 Comparison. 
 
 Changes required. 
 
 Early and late setting. 
 
 DEPTH OF SETTING, . . . . 14 
 
 In heavy and light soils. 
 Setting too deep, danger of 
 Washing by rains. 
 
 DANGER FROM DROUGHT, . . 15 
 
 Injury from drought. 
 
 Manner of treatment. 
 
 Difference in loose and compact soils. 
 
 SETTING OUT PLANTS IN SEVERE 
 
 DROUGTH, ; .... 15 
 
 Course to pursue. 
 Condition of soil. 
 
 Improper modei of setting out plants. 
 Manuring in time of setting out plants. 
 
PAGE 
 
 CARE AFTER 8ETTIXG OUT, . . 10 
 
 Immediate care. 
 
 Manner of cultivation. 
 
 Caution in removal of laroe weeds. 
 
 LATE SETTING OUT, . . . . 17 
 
 Risk of drought late in season. 
 .As effected by frost. 
 Precautions in covering. 
 
 MANURING FOR WINTER, . . 18 
 
 Time to commence. 
 / Fresh manure too soon. 
 
 r^j •• Quantity to use. 
 
 7 Applying bone dust. 
 
 -«» 
 
 HEAVY MANURING, . . . . 19 
 
 Quantity necessary. 
 Character of, for certain soils. 
 Manner of applying. 
 
 COVERING FOR WINTER, . . , 19 
 
 Variety of covering used. 
 Character of covering not removed. 
 Amount necessary. 
 Fine manures, when used fo covering. 
 
56 
 
 PAGE 
 
 THE TIME FOR COVERING, . . 21 
 
 Small plants as afiected by frost. 
 Late settiDg of plants. 
 Freshly worked ground, 
 lu accordance with drainage. 
 
 ATTENTION IN SPRING, ... 21 
 
 When required. 
 
 Removal of covering. 
 
 Preparing for cultivating another year. 
 
 Various courses pursued. 
 
 PICKING^ 22 
 
 When to pick certain varieties, 
 ©fleet of rain and lieat. 
 Retaining or losing aroma. 
 'Careless and destructive pickers. 
 Necessity for the calyx on the berry. 
 
 cultivating the same plot 
 
 ano;ther year, .... 23 
 
 Various courses pursued. 
 Removal of alternate rows. 
 Ploughing and manuring. 
 Ilemoval of old pLmts. 
 Preparation for cnntinous cultivation. 
 Best course for fine fruit. 
 
07 
 
 PAGE 
 
 PLANTS AND THEIR PECULIARITIES, 25 
 
 RAPID GROWERS, .... 25 
 
 Necessities in heavy soils. 
 
 Effect of stimulants on such plants. 
 
 Adaptation to position. 
 
 Stimulating, when necessary. 
 
 Time required in change of position. 
 
 COLD CLAY SOIL, .... 27 
 
 Character of plant necessary. 
 Plants unsuited to certain soils. 
 . Climate in connection with soils. 
 Combined action upon plants. 
 
 LIGHT SOILS, 27 
 
 Plants weak in light soils. 
 Effect of different manures in such soils. 
 Soils made too light with manures. 
 Plants exi>ending their strength in root. 
 Experiments in light soils. 
 Character of soil required. 
 
 SETTING PLANTS IN LIGHT SOILS, 28 
 Time for setting in light soils. 
 Care required. 
 Endurance of plants in hght soils. 
 
 WEAK IN FOLIAGE, .... 29 
 Change of position frequently the cause. 
 Often deficient in vitality. 
 Exhausted ground. 
 
58 
 
 PAGE 
 
 NARROW OR SLENDER FOLIAGE, . 29 
 Reliability of this character. 
 Endurance of such plants. 
 
 STOUT LEAF, VIGOROUS GROWERS, 30 
 
 As acc^iftpanied by fruit. 
 General reliance. 
 Protecting the fruit. 
 
 RUNNERS BEFORE FRUITING, . . 30 
 
 Weakness of such plants. 
 
 When reliable. 
 
 As carrying out its fruit. 
 
 Foliage in connection after fruiting. 
 
 SLOW RUNNERS, . . . . . 81 
 
 Various causes. 
 
 When reliable. 
 
 Under what circumstances desirable. 
 
 VITALITY AND ENDURANCE, . . 31 
 
 Deficiency in plants. 
 
 Judging unjustly. 
 
 Temporary or surface manuring. 
 
 RELIABLE PLANTS, .... 32 
 
 Exhausting the soil. 
 Want of proper nourishment. 
 Causes of failure of such plants. 
 Deficiency in light soils. 
 Character of soil required. 
 
59 
 
 PAGE 
 
 VERY RICH GROUND, ... 32 
 
 Production in proportion. 
 
 Carbon required. 
 
 Stimulating matter, where necessary. 
 
 Causes of failure. 
 
 Unjust condemnation of plants. 
 
 POOR GROUND, 33 
 
 Deceptions in some cases. 
 
 Causes of failure. 
 
 Success accounted for. 
 
 Instances. 
 
 Accidental reputation of plants. 
 
 PLANTS AS AFFECTED BY CLIMATE, 34 
 
 Effect of incessant rains. 
 Endurance in drought. 
 Growth at the most desirable time. 
 Hasty decisions. 
 
 TESTING AND CHOOSING FOR 
 
 LOCALITIES, . . . . . 35 
 
 Nice discrimination required. 
 As fitted to occupy positions. 
 Returns in accordance with cultivation. 
 Comparing costs with remits. 
 
HO 
 
 PAGE 
 
 QUALITIES REQUIRED, ... 35 
 
 Endurance. 
 
 Foliage for protection of fruit. 
 Resisting drought. 
 
 Qualities required under various circum- 
 stances, 
 Discriminating. 
 
 EXCEPTIONS, 30 
 
 Management of difficult plants. 
 Advantages of experience. 
 Certain qualities desired. 
 Individual preference. 
 
 NEW GROUND PREFERRED, . . 36 
 
 Reliability of new ground. 
 
 Largest and finest fruit. 
 
 Weeds and grasses. 
 
 Objections to continous cultivation. 
 
 Quality in preference to quantity. 
 
 THE GRUB, 37 
 
 Two distinct species. 
 
 Difference in appearance. 
 
 Where found. 
 
 Effect in time of drought. 
 
 Continuous cultivation of the same plot. 
 
 GENERAL CAUSES OF FAILURE, 38 
 
61 
 
 PAGE 
 
 CONTINUOUS CULTIVATION, . . 38 
 
 General exceptions. 
 Detached plants in old beds. 
 Uniform failure, cause of. 
 Garden culture. 
 
 FRESH MANURES, . . . . 39 
 
 Uncombined ammonia. 
 Horse manure. 
 Rapid decomposition. 
 Effect of escaping gases. 
 
 MAKING THE SOIL TOO LIGHT, . 40 
 
 Excess of vegetable fibre. 
 Character of soil required by the root. 
 Results from new ground. 
 Perfect decomposition. 
 
 LEACHY SOILS, 41 
 
 How benefitted. 
 Composting for such soils. 
 Absorbent necessary. 
 
 STIMULANTS IN WARM WEATHER, 41 
 
 Plants destroyed in poor soil. 
 Manures detrimental. 
 When used to advantage. 
 
(;;3 
 
 PAGE 
 
 WEEDS AND GRASS, . . . . 42 
 
 How to destroy them. 
 Evil effects of neglect. 
 Trouble and irritation avoided. 
 
 WEAKLY OR NEGLECTED PLANTS. 42 
 
 A serious mistake. 
 Comparison of plants. 
 Small plants. 
 
 SETTING PLANTS LATE IN THE 
 
 SEASON, 43 
 
 Time required. 
 
 Plants failing. 
 
 Indifferent varieties. 
 
 Premature old age. 
 
 Plants, preparing their germs. 
 
 Want of necessary material. 
 
 STIMULATING MATTER, . . .44 
 
 Ammonia or nitrogen. 
 
 Manures containing a great amount. 
 
 When useful. 
 
 When detrimental. 
 
 As necessary to certain soils. 
 
 Effect when not accompanied by carbon. 
 
()3 
 
 PAGE 
 
 ACID IN THE SOIL, .... 44 
 
 Undrained lands. 
 
 Preparation of such for berries. 
 
 Use of alkaline matter. 
 
 EFFECT OF DROUGHT, ... 45 
 
 Early setting out, benefits of. 
 Time for setting out. 
 Failure from late setting. 
 
 THE GRUB DESTROYING THE ROOT, 46 
 
 The use of salt. 
 Replacing plants destroyed. 
 Other insects. 
 
 CHx\NGE OF POSITION, ... 46 
 
 Advice in regard to position. 
 Time required. 
 Accidental results. 
 Necessities in way of drainage. 
 
 PROTF]CTION NECESSARY FROM 
 
 ACTION BY FROST, ... 47 
 
 Light soils as affected. 
 Effect upon clay soils. 
 Advantage of drainage. 
 Protection by snow. 
 Influence of favorable winters. 
 
64 
 
 PAGE 
 
 ADVANTAGES OF BOTH LIGHT AND 
 
 HEAVY SOILS, .... 48 
 
 Natural advantages of eacli. 
 Depending upon surroundings. 
 Clay soil preferred. 
 Keasons given for the same. 
 Carbon for clay soils, necessity of. 
 Difficulty from the same in light soils. 
 Effect of carbon upon clay soils. 
 Effect of carbon upon light soils. 
 Light soil why preferred by many. 
 Treatment, light soil, considered. 
 Light soil, continuous cultivation. 
 Exceptional cases. 
 Circumstances producing effects. 
 
 CONCLUSION, 51 
 
 Advice necessary. 
 Attention at all times. 
 As attended with success. 
 
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