Class Book. CopyrightN^ CDFXRIGHT DEPOSm Va 1 e n t i n e ' s . CITY OF EW YORK ^1 <><> GUIDE, BOOK By lY COLLINS BROWN Iff mil mB 10 ■mm ^ fit ffi arts tit 'suuaig F reornces' ^iHatverll The moH J^jnozis Build in <^ in JT^ca W^A "Took Mr^eweil^ Kid'mHcers xnS% comey Fearl emd IBroad Streets ^ VALENTINE'S City of New York a guide book (isy WrrHS.X MAPS *«0 ONE Ht,.OKEn.ANnS,XTV.... PAGE PICTURES By Henry Collins Brown Editor of "Valentine's Manual of Old New York New York VALENTINE'S MANUAL, Inc. 15 East 40th Stret Copyright 1920 Henry Collins Brown New York MAR 24 1920 ©CU566165 Press of The Chauncey Holt Company New York City THE INFORMATION CONTAINED IN THIS BOOK Page How to See the City Inexpensively 3 Street Car Lines, Buses, Subway and Elevated Roads 4 Sight Seeing Cars, .Sight Seeing Boats, Aeroplane Trips over the City, Seeing the City from Bus Tops 6-9 What to See. Various trips suggested with routes 8 AVomen Travelling Alone 9 Hotels, Boarding Houses, Furnished Rooms, etc 11 Special Hotels for Women and other information about Plotels in General 12 The Frick Collection of Art 12 The City Itself described in detail. Its Discovery, Rise and Progress 17-29 We start a tour through New York beginning at the Custom House where the City began (1620) by the erection of Fort Amsterdam, and proceed uptown in accordance with its development 30 The Battery. The Statue of Liberty. The Aquarium, Gov- ernors Island, Ellis Island, the Harbor and Shipping. The famous Landing Stage at the Battery. •Distin- guished visitors, from Lafaj-ette to Joffre and the Prince of Wales, received here 30-40 West Street, the "Meal Ticket" of New York, and its enor- mous shipping 47 Th-e Great Transatlantic Liners. The famous thousand- feet docks — the Chelsea Improvement — owned by the City 52-54 Where the Dough Boys left for France, and returned. The great Government Docks at Hoboken 53 East River Shipping and the great Fish Market at Fulton Street 55 Huge Army Supply Base and the great Bush Terminal Docks in Brooklyn 53 Old Broadway. The pride of New York and the Main Street in our Village. From the Custom House to Wall Street 61 Bowling Green, the Standard Oil Building, the Steel Cor- poration's offices. Trinity Church and its famous Dead. 61-69 III Pa. ere The First Skyscraper 70 Out of the Ordinary Eating- Places 75_8i Cabarets, Tea-Dansants, etc 82 Wall Street and the Financial District 84 The Stock Market, the Cotton, Wheat and Produce Ex- ''^^^Ses : S4_^20 The Sub-Treasury. Where Washington was Inaugurated. 89 Famous Banks and Bankers 9996 Old Wall Street ''.'.'.' '.'.9e-^S Fraunce's Tavern, where Washington took -leave of his ^ffl^^^^s .04_^Q7 The famous "Curb" Market and others 108 The Broad Street Hospital and Seaman's Institute 116 Our Civic Centre, City Hall, Municipal Building, etc. . .122-132 Woolworth Building, St. Paul's, Newspaper Row, The Post Office, Hall of Records. The famous City Prison called the Tombs 1*22-132 Our Old City Hall and its historic possessions 134 The Liberty Pole in City Hall in Revolutionary Days 145 To be Erected Again as a War Memorial 147-151 Broadway, North to 42nd Street 153 Map showing the Region just described 155 The Great East Side, Home of the Russians, Italians, Greeks, Swedes, Turks, Hunks, Bulgars, Austrians, Ar- menians, Slavs and Irish. Chinatown and the "Black Belt." The famous Ghetto 157-168 The Bowery. Its Romance and History. Greatly changed. 169-174 Old St. Mark's Church. Old time dives. Bull's Head Tav- ern. The old Bowery Theatre. Old Milestones. Cooper Union 171-174 Roosevelt's Grave at Oyster Bay 177 Big Ideas in Little Places. Original shops with original goods. Winifred Holt's "Lighthouse" and its wonder- ful basket-ware. The idea of personal service 178 Greenwich Village— the Bohemian quarter of New York. Its short-haired women and long-haired men. One of our most talked-of possessions. Its quaintness, etc. 181 From Chambers Street to 14th Street 185 IV Page Another map showing the territory between Chambers Street and Greenwich Village 186 From 14th Street to 59th. Chelsea Village, where the "Night Before Christmas" was written. St. Peter's Church... 187 Jim Fiske, Ed Stokes and Josie Mansfield 188 The Paulist Fathers. The Vanderbilt Clinic 1S9 Gramercy Park and the Players Club 1 SI Where Roosevelt was born 191 Fifth Avenue, the Pride of New York 193-265 Parades on the Avenue during the Great War. Over. Sixty Views are shown, forming the most complete souvenir of these events yet gathered together in one article. Begins on page 194 The famous Hippodrome Show House 258 Bryant Park. "The Little Church Around the Corner." The Pageants of War on the Avenue. The Y. M. C. A., the Y. W. C. A., the K. of C, Jewish, Welfare, etc.. 261 Armistice Day in Fifth Avenue 26.3 Return of General Pershing and End of the War 264 Madison Avenue, Murray Hill, Grand Central Terminal, Madison Square Garden and the Great Metropolitan Tower and Clock 265-269 Forty- Second Street and the great Biltmore group of Hotels. Pershing Square and proposed Victory Hall. 270-276 Map showing third section just visited 277 The Great White Way. Theatres, Movies, Cabarets, Res- taurants and the Night Life 279-283 Map of the fourth section 2S4 Our Wonderful Public Parks. The Bronx, Van Cortlandt, Pelham Bay, Interstate, Bear Mountain, The Zoo, the Botanical Garden and the great Central Park beginning at 59th Street 286 The Upper West Side, Riverside Drive— The Hudson River 295 Map of Upper Section of New York 303 Washington's Headquarters, the Roger Morris House 304 Pershing Square Hotel Group. Biltmore; Commodore, Bel- mont, Manhattan, New Murray Hill 305 Map of City North from Columbia University 311 The Cathedral of St. John the Divine, Morningside Heights, and the Residence of Bishop Burch 313 V Columbia University — Page General View 314 St. Paul's Chapel 315 Low Library 317 School of Mines 317 College of the City of New York 319 New York University Hall of Fame 319 The Lewisohn Stadium 320 Map of Fort Washington Section of New York 322 Metropolitan Museum of Art 323 The Hispanic Museum 325-326-330 Museum of Natural History 326 New York Historical Society 32S American Geographical Society 325 American Indian Museum, Heye Foundation 325 The Numismatic Society 325 Our Wonderful Public Schools 334 The well-known Polo Grounds where the Giants play 336 Coney Island. On the Beach 33S Nearby attractions of Sea, Mountain and PJver reached in a day and return 340-342 Where Prominent Persons Live — Who's Who in New York 346-350 John McE. Bowman of the famous Pershing Square Hotel Group 371 Our Big Money Institutions. Enormous Banking. Power of New York "353 Curious Book — Valentine's Manual — About old New York. 353 Interesting Details About the Great City 356 Some simple Don'ts for Travellers 359 Map of the end of the City at In wood Heights 361 General Information 362 Principal Theatres, etc 3G4 Brooklyn and other Boroughs 367 BESIDES over ONE HUNDRED and SIXTY Views of the City covering every section and made recently for this Guide. VI FOREWORD **I PRAY YOU LET US SATISFY OUR EYES WITH THE MEMORIALS AND THE THINGS OF FAME THAT DO RENOWN THIS CITY." Shakespeare. A/TANY, many years ago our city. rejoiced in a series of Guide Books of exquisite taste and scholarly attainment. For even in those days travellers from far- away lands were constantly within her hospitable gates. She was the belle of the New World and her admirers were legion. "New York is a beautiful city/' writes one, "and the grateful shade of the trees on Broadway is delightful." Some of these books had dainty little steel engravings portraying our principal buildings — City Hall, The Bat- tery, Castle Garden, etc., and were generally written by "A Gentleman Residing in the City." Though small in size they were bravely finished with cloth covers and gilt tops. Today these diminutive volumes are the idol of the collector and the despair of the dealer. As a lover of New York it has seemed to me that something in the line of these half-forgotten Guide Books was due this old city of ours. The little homes of red brick and dormer windows have long ago disappeared. The days of lavender and old lace seem never to have been, in this city of Sub- VII ways and Skyscrapers. Perhaps a Guide Book should be all figures and numbers and maps. Yet I fain would revive the loving personal touch of "the gentleman who resided in the city." How successful the attempt is, courteous reader, I shall leave you to decide. A work of this kind is naturally the product of many minds. I have occasionally quoted from fugitive items in our daily papers, notably the Sun, World, Evening Post, Evening Sun and Tribune. My lecture on Old New York has also been drawn upon. If I have failed in every instance to credit the source of information I do so of necessity, and cheerfully make this acknowledg- ment. The City History Club; Mr. A. J. Wall, the learned assistant librarian of the New York Historical Society, and Mr. Sturges S. Dunham, a member of the bar, are entitled to special mention. Corrections and additions to this Guide are cordially invited. A perfect Guide is the product of evolution and cannot be made at the first attempt ; and its improvement to a great extent lies in the cooperation of the public. The Author. VIII The very first view of New York ever shown to the world. Courtesy N. Y. Historical Society. About 1642. How TO See the City Inexpensively npHERE is no other city in the world in which it is ■■■ so easy to get around^ as New York. If you will get the points of the compass fixed in your mind at the start, it will help you greatly. Standing in front of the Library on Fifth i\venue, at 42nd Street, and looking toward Madison Square you face South; your back is to the North. On your right is West, and on the left is East. Traffic police are stationed at congested points. Stop until they signal you to cross. The ninety-four on horseback and the five hundred and nineteen on foot are out in all weathers, quick to see the movements of every kind of vehicle and alert to adjust every condition that arises to facilitate the travel of foot passengers as well as the saving of time of cars and carriages and all kinds of wagons on wheels. The woman in the car and the man on foot must exer- cise patience when held up at certain hours of the morn- ing and evening by the over-rush of automobiles or of people hurrying to work or to their homes. Almost every location in New York is either "Up- town" or "Downtown," Occasionally you hear "Cross- town" but not often. There is no actual dividing line between up and downtown. If you go South you are going downtown; if North, uptown. Between East and West the case is different. Broadway to 23rd Street and from 23rd Street up Fifth Avenue, is the popular dividing line. To be technically exact, Broadway to 7th Street and Fifth Avenue up from 8th Street, is the map division. All streets are East or West, as they hap- pen to lie on the right or left of this line. It is against the law to cross a street in the middle of a block. Use regular crossings only. No city excels us in the frequency or rapidity of our local transportation. We have surface cars on almost every thoroughfare; a Subway and Elevated System on the West Side and the same on the East. At 42nd Street there is a short line on which passengers may change from the East Side to the West, or vice versa, and con- tinue their journey without extra fare. There is also a Subway line on Broadway to which you can also trans- fer from the same connecting line. Other Subway trains, using these same tunnels, take you to Brooklyn, Long Island City and all the little towns in Brooklyn, as far as Coney Island. The fare to the latter point is only 10 cents and the time about 40 minutes. On each Elevated and Subway station there is a colored map showing the different stations on the route you are going to take. Consult those maps for the station you Mdsh to get off at or ask the guard on the train. He always calls out the name of the next station as the car approaches. Stations are about six blocks apart 4 The house where Theodore Roosevelt was born — No. 28 Twentieth Street. To be restored and kept as a memorial of the Great American East in local trains and a mile and a half on Expresses. All subway entrances on the street are plainly marked "Up- town" or "Downtown." There are separate tracks for Express and Local trains on the Subways, so look for the sign which points to the different tracks. Except on the Sixth Avenue Elevated, the same system applies to the Third and Ninth Avenues. Avoid travel between 7.00 and 9.30 A. M. and between 4.30 and 6.30 P. M. These are the rush hours when the trains are packed to the limit. In all probability the average visitor who does not in- tend to go outside of New York will use one of the two main Subway lines — the East or the West. They prac- tically cover every foot of the entire island and will get you anywhere. Assuming therefore that you are staying in the hotel section, you will find the West Side Subway the most convenient if you are located West of Fifth Avenue; and the East Side Subway if you are East of the Avenue. The group of hotels adjoining the Grand Central Terminal are directly in touch with both systems, as the connecting railway runs past their en- trance on 42nd Street. Trains run on about a two min- ute schedule. The street cars stop only at corners and never in the middle of the block; downtown corners going up, and uptown corners coming down. The Fifth Avenue buses stop on the far side. Bus fare is 10 cents. Taxis have succeeded hackmen. Charge per mile reg- ulated by the city. Inside each taxi the rate card is prominently displayed. Each cab carries a meter which counts the mileage. There is no chance for argument with the driver, as the charge must agree with the dis- tance travelled as shown by the meter. In case of dis- pute, order the driver to take you to the nearest police station. "LET US HAVE PEACE" Grant'sMonument on Riverside Drive at 122nd Street American Studios Four great bridges also connect with Brooklyn. They aiFord fine views and are worth a visit. But the under- ground is much better if you need to save time. Ferries still ply between the city and its neighbors^ but they are seldom used for passenger traffic, except in the case of Staten Island and one or two other instances not likely to be used by the tourist. A popular and much more comfortable way to see the city is by means of one of the numerous sightseeing buses. This has grown to be quite a business. There are several companies with starting points at convenient places, and the points of interest they have selected are the result of close acquaintance with the city. The cost is from one to two dollars. Your hotel clerk can tell you the nearest one to take or consult the list at the back of this book. They have intelligent lecturers, who describe the different points as they go along, which adds much to the interest of the trip. There are two routes generally selected — one through the low^er part of the city below 23rd Street, and the other north, or uptown. That through the lower part of the city gives a comprehensive view from Madison Square down Fifth Avenue and Broadway to Bowling Green, from which point a fine view is had of the Bay, the Statue of Liberty, the Aquarium, and the Battery. The financial district. Stock Exchange, the Bowery, Chinatown, the Italian and Hebrew quarters and Brook- lyn Bridge are seen on the way. The lecturer will call out the different buildings as the car rolls along, giving a brief history of each, which adds much to the interest of the trip. There is also a trip around Manhattan Island by the sight-seeing yachts Observation and Tourist, which is of extreme interest and well worth making. The boats start from Battery Park Pier at 10.30 A. M. and 2.30 P. M. daily, from May 1st to November 1st. They sail up the East River, around the island, through the Harlem Ship Canal, down the Hudson, past the Palisades, Fort Washington, Grant's Tomb and Riverside Park, reveal- ing an unexpected number of interesting features of the shipping and commerce of New York as well as the gigantic Atlantic liners. Another trip starts from the above-mentioned pier at 1.15 P. M. daily^ going down the Bay to Staten Island, past the Quarantine Station, Forts Hamilton, Wads- worth and Lafayette, through the Narrows to the Lower Bay, past Sandy Hook Lightship and Fort Hancock. The yacht rounds the Sandy Hook Lightship (25 miles from Battery Pier), presenting an unequalled view of the entrance to New York Harbor. On the way back to the city a good view is given of famous Coney Island, Brighton and Manhattan beaches. As in the case of the motor buses, here again the lecturer adds greatly to the interest of the trip by his intelligent descriptions. The very latest and up-to-the-minute method of See- ing New York is undoubtedly by the new hourly Aero- plane route. For a genuine thrill, this is highly recom- mended to the tourist in New York. Elsewhere in these pages we have shown a photograph of this Limousine Airboat and call attention to its luxurious appointments. Do not miss this very novel experience. It does not fly in Winter. Fifty mile flight, hourly service, weather permitting. Comfort and safety considered first. $50 per passenger. Women Travelling Alone. Notwithstanding the lurid posters that dot the country landscape depicting the perils of the beautiful girl alone in our great city, it still remains a fact that New York is the best village in the Union for women travelling 9 Statue of Nathan Hale in City Hall Park. "I regret that I have but one life to give for my country" © Brown Bros. alone. And there is absolutely nv, comparison in this respect between it and Continental cities. New York is not perfect, but any woman who encount- ers unpleasant situations in our city has, to a very large extent, her own self to blame for it. Nevertheless, a certain amount of caution is necessary ; common sense is still a valuable possession and should not be left at home while travelling. Experience shows that two women together are practically immune from embarrassing expe- riences, while the solitary visitor is more exposed, espec- ially if the hour is late and you happen to be in certain localities. Abundant protection is afforded the lone young woman on every hand. Almost immediately upon arrival repre- sentatives of the Travellers' Aid Society will direct her to a suitable and respectable hotel or boarding house. In spite of all these precautions, however, some sad hap- penings are matters of frequent record, most of which are mainly preventable. A very good rule is to pursue about the same line of conduct you would at home. You do not permit strangers to become familiar, and when yoa want information j^ou ask a policeman. Do the same here. It is useless to provide bureaus of information, uniformed attendants and other conveniences if the stranger will calmly ignore them. Special Hotels for Women. It is not enough to pick out a hotel in advance by name only. You must also know the exact street num- ber. There are frequently two places of the same name or very similar, but of an entirely different character. Also some hotels do not care to receive women unescorted at a late hour unless reservation has been made in ad- vance. None of the first-class hotels in the vicinity of the Grand Central or Pennsylvania Terminals would think of such a discourtesy, and one of them has an entire floor reserved exclusively for women. The Martha 11 Washington is wholly patronized by women and is open all night. This is the one hotel which was especially built and is meant for women exclusively. Men cannot stop here nor visit above the first floor. New York has 140 hotels of the first class_, with 50,000 rooms for guests. They represent an investment of $300,000,000 and employ 75,000 persons. There are as many ^jiore smaller hotels. The oldest is Fraunces' Tavern, at Broad and Pearl Streets, opened in 1762. The newest are the Pennsylvania and the Commodore, opened in 1919, with more than 4,000 guest rooms. The Commodore has served an entire regiment of 3,000 men in one room. At the same time 4,000 other guests were being served in the various restaurants and dining rooms of the hotel. The Biltmore, with 1,000 rooms and many restaurants, serves more than 2,000,000 meals a year, and uses nearly 600 tons of meat and poultry, 2,500 bar- rels of flour, and all the milk that 300 cows furnish. There are other accommodations at all sorts of prices, and if the length of your stay is at all dependent upon your pocketbook you can arrange accordingly. Very few hotels include meals with the price of the room. You are expected to eat where you choose. This is much the better, as you need not return to the hotel till -bed- time, if you so desire. You are very apt to be quite a distance from it at luncheon, for instance, and the time lost returning would be considerable. A room with bath in a good hotel centrally located can be had from $3 to $4 a day. Without bath $2.50 to $3.50. The hotels of international reputation, like the Biltmore, Waldorf, Commodore, Astor, etc., are about double those figures for an ordinary room; but, of course, there is practically no limit to what you may pay for a special suite. Dining at these hotels is on an equally expensive scale ; but the service is good, the surroundings 12 •A CATHEDRAL OF COMMERCE" The famous Woolworth Building on Broadway just south of City Hall Park. B'wav Park Place Co. are enjoyable^ the music and dancing very entertaining. All this adds to the expense of the food, and your share is included in the check which is handed you at the con- clusion of your repast. Life in these wonderful hotels is as much a source of amusement as any other attraction in New York, and to those to whom it is unfamiliar the indulgence is well worth the cost. It certainly permits a glimpse of cosmopolitan New York at its best, and to many persons is far more interesting than the average theatre. But you can hire a furnished room in a good neigh- borhood for about $10 a week, dine at a cafeteria, or any one of a hundred good reasonably priced restaurants, and then walk through the big hotels afterwards. You can even go into the writing room and send a letter home on the hotel's richly crested stationery if you wish, and no one will object. You can also buy a two-cent stamp for two cents, but a two-cent evening paper will cost you three cents, so watch your step. Yet there is no necessity for reckless extravagance simply because you happen to be in New York. There are lots of other people here, too, and they live in it all the time, and manage to get along quite com- fortable on moderate incomes. Taxis, while comfort- able, are not absolutely necessary. The subway will take you within a few blocks of anywhere, and the fare is only a few cents, even if you ride to the end of its fifteen miles. There is no city in the world where transportation is so good, and between ten and four the cars are not uncomfortably crowded. With a little care the rush hours — between 7.30 and 9.30 A. M. and 4.30 to 7 in the evening — ran be avoided. Another very delightful and inexpensive way of seeing the city is from the top of a Fifth Avenue Bus. This line traverses our most noted thoroughfare through its busiest and most interesting length. The fare is ten 14 cents^ and is about the best ten cents' worth you will get during your stay. The routes very in direction from Millionaires' Row, east of Central Park, to Grant's Tomb, on Riverside Drive and the upper part of the city, which is worth seeing. It is a comfortable ride and not a dull moment in it. Seeing New York from a bus top is equally as popular as seeing London in the same way. THE FRICK COLLECTION. Announcement has just been made that the valuable Art collection made by the late Henry C. Frick has been left to the city as a public museum. This new museum is located on 5th Ave., between 72nd and 73rd Streets. At the present moment of writing it cannot be definitely stated just when this collection will be open to the public but reference to the daily papers will supply the information. 15 THE CITY ITSELF T EGALLY speaking, the City of New Yorii consists ^-^ of five separate Boroughs. What was formerly known as New York is now called the Borough of Man- hattan. It occupies the whole of Manhattan Island. The average person speaking of New York has in mind this particular place. He doesn't even know that it is a Borough and cares less. To him it has always been New York and always will be. The Island lies at the mouth of the Hudson River and is about two miles wide at its widest part and about thirteen long. It contains a little more than 22,000 acres. Including, however, the adjoining Bor- oughs, the size of Greater New York is about 327 square miles. The total assessed valuation of real estate is $8,271,157,608. The population (1920) is very close to six millions. It seems to increase at the rate of about a hundred and fifty thousand a year. The vast number of returning soldiers and their friends have greatly added to the transient population and though the city has more and larger hotels than any other in the world, it has of late found increasing difficulty in caring for its visitors. Even in normal times it is estimated that a hundred thousand strangers are within its hospitable gates every night. No city in the world rivals New York in the magni- tude and rapidity of its growth. It costs over five hun- 17 dred and forty-three millions to run INew York, as against two hundred and twenty millions to run Chicago and only seventy-six millions to run Philadelphia. Pub- lic schools alone cost over eighty-seven millions. In an international sense, it has also grown greatly since the war. Its imports and exports have increased tremendously; there is no comparison between today's figures and those of 1914. In a financial sense it shows corresponding growth. In this one particular it is now perhaps the most important city in the world. London is still great and so is Paris. But the huge expenditures for the late war, the immense loans raised by our own and Allied Governments were largely financed in New York and this will for some time to come make New York a tremendous factor in the world's affairs. In the case of a man grown suddenly great, every little scrap of information regarding his early life is eagerly sought for and treasured. Every detail, no mat- ter how trifling, is of absorbing interest. And so it is with a city. New York, being so young and yet so old, is a fruitful topic for the man in the street, as well as the antiquarian. For you who visit the metrop- olis for the first time, nothing can be amiss that will add to your knowledge of the city and to a better understanding of its origin, its rise and its progress. In the pages which follow, therefore, an attempt has been made to set forth some of its most important char- acteristics and to exjDlain^ if possible, the fascination it possesses for so many different types of people, and its all embracing popularity. "That New York has accepted without protest her role as Siren City cannot be denied," remarks Harrison J. Rhodes. "Indeed, she rather expects waiters and dram- atists to portray the dangers which lurk within her bosom for the pure young men and women from the country. Boston and Philadelphia are not free from evil, Heaven 18 I%8fe B?y«M;'MlfcWflf w^^^^ Beginning of New York's Street Cleaning Department. Calling the roll, 1868 This shows the great improvements, made by Colonel Waring as Street Commissioner. Calling the roll in 1920 knows, but there is something faintly ridiculous in the idea of their luring a man to destruction." And so the great mass of literature produced outside of the city for rural consumption must necessarily feature this jDhase of city life or be forever eschewed by its bucolic con- stituency. Nevertheless, there is so much that is attractive, so much that is uplifting and inspiring, that it is a mat- ter of regret to the real New Yorker that such raisin- formation and drivel is so generally distributed. There is also much, no doubt, over which a veil could be drawn. But that is inevitable in a city so large. The unbiased chronicler of Manhattan, nevertheless, has a vast store- house of facts from which to draw, and needs no help from his imagination. Its Discovery "He was born — no one knows where or when. He died — no one knows when or how. He comes into our view on the quarterdeck of a little shallop of scarcely ninety tons burden. He goes out of it in a crazy boat manned by seven sick sailors, cast adrift in the Arctic seas to perish miserably, the victim of a cruel mutiny." So writes one historian of Henry Hudson, whose name is first identified with New York. He appears to have vanished into nothingness when his great work was done. Even his likeness and autograph are not generally believed to be genuine. No one knows his age at the time he made his discoveries. That he was of mature years is shown by his having an eighteen- year-old son. But whether he was a hale mariner of forty or a grizzled veteran of seventy, has never been guessed. For his perilous journey, in the frailest of frail crafts, Hudson received the munificent sum of $320. In case he never came back the directors of the company agreed to paj^ his widow a further sum of $8Q in cash. 20 Pastoral scene of the extreme north end of Manhattan Island, Inwood Heights Anything but a pastoral scene — the extreme southern end of the same island "Hudson/' John Fiske tells us, "was a notable in- stance of the irony of human destiny. In all that he attempted he failed; yet he achieved great results that were not contemplated in his original plans. He started two immense industries — the Spitzenbergen whale fish- eries and the Hudson Bay fur trade, now the world renowned Hudson's Bay Company; and he brought the Dutch to Manhattan Island. No realization of his dreams, however, could have approached the astonish- ing reality which would have greeted him could he have looked through the coming centuries and caught a glimpse of what the voyager now beholds in sailing up the bay of New York. "But what perhaps would have surprised him most of all would have been to learn that his name was*to become part of the folk lore of the beautiful river to which it is attached; that he was to figure as a Dutch- man instead of an Englishman in both legend and story; that when it is thunder weather in the Catskills, children would say it is "Hendrik Hudson" playing at skittles with his goblin crew. Perhaps it is not an unkindly fate. Even as Milton wished for his dead friend Lycidas that he might become the genius of the shore, so the memory of the great Arctic navigator will remain a familiar presence among the hillsides which the gentle fancy of Washington Irving has clothed with undying romance." In one important respect our city has been particu- larly fortunate. The records of its early days are singu- larly full and complete. This applies not only to its documentary records, but also and more particularly, to its pictorial records. It is an inestimable privilege to know that what we see is an exact and contemporary drawing of what our city looked like at that time. In one respect at least its original settlement by a private corporation was of exceeding value from an historic point of view. The Dutch West India Company, under 22 o n, c 5 O to ;z;« c -or. ^c/3 rt-n s^s TJ m ■s<: .Ic fc4 >. C « OiJ -oc^ ?jx u) c >.f: =S« S (0 :s>5 whose charter the elty was established, left nothing to the discretion of its subordinates. Minute instrueUons eoneernmg the most trivial details were received bv every packet ship. Full directions regardingthe con- struction of the first fort and the loca^tion o{ the sur- rounding houses accompanied Peter Minuit, the fir t Governor General, on his voyage of settlement. Ihe island was purchased from the Indians in 1626 for some trinkets, valued at $24, and Fort Amsterdam IZnTT^"" r' '''' "' ">^ l~t Custom Hot" facing Bowling Green. At this time the island ended there. The streets to South Ferry and Battery Park have since been added. The same is true of both the entIL Kast and West sides of the downtown section Pearl Certain popular errors of these earlv days have re mained uncorrected. We call the Hudso.rR' er the North River, although every one knows that it lies di lork and Brooklyn is called the East River, although .t IS not a river at all, but an arm of the sea Bofh of these errors are inherited from the Dutch, who spoke of Hudson s river as forming the north boundary of their possessions of which the Delaware River marked the south bou„dary-or South River, as they called it The City of the Dutch. to tte'citfoTthe n t'^" V "^^ '''''"' ^^--t -«-ly CO tne city of the Dutch. New Street, a few steps from Broadway, is particularly redolent of these craX dlZ It was the last street opened in this vicinit; and aUhouS 24 The fine portico of St. Mark's Church, Eleventh Street and Second Avenue. Governor Stuyvesant is buried here, and also A. T. Stewart At the hegmmng of things during the Dutch Occupa- tion, the northern limit of this little hamlet, then on the edge of a wilderness, was fixed at Wall Street; and for half a century the settlement was hemmed in by a wooden wall or palisade, which extended from river to river. That's how the street got its name— Wall Street. There was first a cattle guard built along this road by felling trees and piling them, roots out, in a row along the path. A few years later the inhabitants were ordered by Stuyvesant to erect a substantial barrier in place of the guard. This answered the same purpose and in addition protected the settlers from the depreda- tions of bears, wolves, foxes and other animals, but prin- cipally against Indians and nearby settlers. The Dutch were continually in danger of a quarrel with the English on account of European politics, and feared an attack at any time. This structure stood until about 1699, when it was torn down. Meanwhile, it had confined the growth of the city to a very small section and retarded an orderly arrangement of streets. That is why the city below Wall Street is so irregular and confusing. Many of the streets follow the old cow paths. Yet the visitor, with a soul for the past, would do well to begin his pilgrimage in the footsteps of the first settlers. This section contains the earliest pages of New York's history and witnessed the little fur trading post become a hardy pioneer city of almost twenty-five thousand inhabitants, ere the dark days of the Revolution all but encompassed its destruction. Unlike other historic American cities. New York has preserved few buildings erected prior to the Revolution, a neglect which has since been keenly regretted. Con- sequently, while there are many interesting locations in the neighborhood below Wall Street, all of the original buildings have disappeared, and the best we can offer the tourist is a tablet placed on the site of some of 26 Music in the Mall, Central Park. Ten to fifteen thousand are in the audience. U. & U. wLTlZT''"^^"'''' '•^'^''"■"g "*^ f°'-°'er building C„ ton. H '••„ ^^■;^^'-"»Ple' in the corridor of thf torfof th^.^T T ' ^' ^"""'^ " *^'''^' containing the his- Wil I] .' "■" ','' '"''"P*'"" «^ ^'"■t Amsterdam. With these few explanatory remarks we will now be- gm our tour through New York, which we hope wm enlighten and entertain our visitor. In order to present the various sections consecutively and in the order of their development, we shall start where the Dutch started and recording its history as we proceed Assuming that you are in the hotel district at 42nd the Elevated, ,t doesn't matter which, and get ou at' Bowling Green Station. Time, 12 minutes. ^ WHERE THE CITY BEGAN Fort Amsterdam ; Battery Park ; the Custom House ; THE Aquarium; Shipping; Statue of Liberty; Governor's Island; Ellis Island; Etc. /'^OMING out of the Subway you will find the great ^^ Federal Custom House where the Fort used to be. Among other things in the old Fort was a small but somewhat pretentious building called the "Governor's House/' and a very small churchy used by the Dutch in the morning and the English in the afternoon, called the Church of St. Nicholas, or "Church in the Fort." It was the mother of all the Collegiate Dutch Churches in New York, and its direct descendant today is located at Fifth Avenue and 29th Street, which is very proud of its ancestry and calls attention to it by a large sign. When the Fort was finally demolished (in 1790), the -city erected a handsome building on this site, in which to provide a residence for the President, as New York was then the Capitol of the United States. But New York suffered a grievous disappointment; the Gov- ernment moved to Philadelphia and the "Government House," as it was called, was used as a Custom House. In 1812 it was demolished and the ground sold by the 30 city to private persons for three hundred thousand dol- lars. Handsome houses then were built, and Bowling Green (its new name,) became a very fashionable street. Steamship Row. These splendid houses were the wonder of their day. In point of grandeur they far exceeded anything that had yet appeared. They were occupied by families of the first soeial importance. Stephen Whitney, inventor of the famous cotton gin and counted the richest man of his day, lived in the second house from Broadway; Peter Remsen, John Guion, David Austin, Elisha Riggs and Ferdinand. Suydam completed the sextette. At a later date, Commodore Vanderbilt lived in the house at the State Street corner. In spite of all their magnifi- cence, however, these houses for the greater part of their existence were without running water, gas or steam heat. Open fireplaces furnished all the warmth obtainable. The pump that supplied the water was still standing late in the seventies on the southwest corner. Smoke from the great fire of 1835 which prostrated the city, ruined the draperies in these houses and tarnished the silver. During the Civil War the Battery was naturally the scene of bustle and confusion early and late; and when the park was used as a detention camp for Southern prisoners the combination effectually destroyed the quiet dignity of the neighborhood and its fall from social grace was rapid and complete. In the late '60's, the great Cunard Line moved its offices into one of these abandoned houses, to be followed soon afterward by all the other foreign steamship companies — the White Star, Anchor, Inman, Guion, Transatlantique, Holland and others, and the street became known the world over as "Steamship Row." About 1900 the Government finally decided to buy back the old location for the 32 Custom House^ which it did, paying three million dol- lars for whaj had been sold for a tenth of that sum. Nevertheless the land which belonged to the Government in its very earliest days, three hundred years ago, has now reverted to its original owner and probably will never again be permitted to go out of its possession. These foreign companies evident^ liked this pirt of town and clung to it even after the demolition of the "Row." The various offices filtered into the nearby streets, where they are today — State Street, Battery Place and lower Broadway. With the purchase of the Washington Building at No. 1 Broadway by the Inter- national Mercantile Marine Co. and the completion of site at No. 25, to be largely occupied by the Cunard Line, this vicinity may be safely regarded as the headquarters of the Transatlantic trade for some years to come. The magnificent statuary on the Custom House is the work of the noted sculptor Daniel Chester French. They represent the great trading nations of the world. During the late war the statue of Germania was changed to represent Belgium, so that no honor would be done to a state guilty of sinking helpless merchant ships and drowning women and children. The allegorical figures represent the four great continents, Europe, Africa, Asia and America. Inside the building are ten decorative paintings of great excellence, depicting the old maritime parts of the Seventeenth Century, including New Am- sterdam (New York) and Fort Orange (Albany). Leaving the Custom House, we come out upon Battery Park. I walked with my wife for an hour before dinner at the Battery. What a beautiful spot it is! The grounds are in fine order. The noble bay with the opposite shores of Brooklyn and Staten Island, vessels of every description, from the well-appointed Liverpool packets to the little market craft, give life and animation to a prospect unexcelled by any city in the world. — Philip Hone, 1845. 34 The scene is just as entrancing now as it was then. If anything^ it is even more interesting. The shipping is more picturesque. There are new and stranger types of ships. War ships, merchant ships, iron ships, steel ships, wooden ships, air ships, and every known descrip- tion of sailing craft dot the waters in every direction. The bustle of the harbor; the saucy little tug hauling huge strings of loaded barges; the arriving and depart- ing liners; the ferries to Brooklyn, Staten Island, New Jersey, excursions to Coney Island, Rockaway Beach, the Highlands, superb million dollar private yachts, launches and odds and ends of maritime life — all com- bine to make a memorable scene and one never to be forgotten. Opposite the West side of the Custom House is a rather interesting antique — the monument erected by the city in 1818 to mark the South-west bastion of Fort George. It disappeared in some mysterious manner, probably during the filling in of the Battery in 1851. At all events, it was unearthed during the excavations for the subway, and was replaced near the sidewalk in the grounds of the park in 1907. After a stroll along the sea wall we enter a circular- shaped building, one of the most popular in all New York, the Aquarium. This is also one of our most im- portant historical possessions and said to be one of the best known single structures in the whole United States, not even excepting the Statue of Liberty. It was for- merly old Castle Garden and through its portals millions of emigrants passed in the years gone by. That is why it is so well known. All their descendants have heard of it. It was originally built as a fort in 1812 and named after DeWitt Clinton, then Governor of the State. It later became a place of entertainment. It seated 8,000 persons. It is the Nation's great landing place for distinguished foreign visitors. Lafayette came 35 Arrival of the Right Hon. Arthur Balfour, head of the British Mission. Dock Commissioner R, A, C. Smith is on the left, © U. & U. George T. Wilson on right. here on his first visit to America in 1854; "Papa" JofFre, that other beloved Frenchman; the Belgian king, Gen'l Pershing and the Prince of Wales followed. Jenny Lind sang here under P. T. Barnum. It is now under the care of the New York Zoological Society, a private organization, and used as an Aquarium. Its collection of fishes, especially from nearby tropical waters, is won- derful. Seals and sea lions are here, besides huge alli- gators, turtles and all kinds of aquatic curiosities. It is one of the most popular attractions in the city and is visited every year by nearly two million persons^ See tablets. Leaving the Aquarium we turn to the left and see the statue erected to Ericsson, the inventor of the Mon- itor, and the man who consigned all unarmored ships at once to the scrap heap by his wonderful idea. The Monitor undoubtedly saved New York from bombard- ment during the Civil War and Ericsson's fame is some- thing of which New York is justly proud. No wholly wooden ships were ever built by 'the great navies of the world after the performance of the Monitor at Hampton Roads. A little further along is a statue of Verrazzano, an Italian navigator, who visited New York Harbor in 1524, and next to it a steel flag pole to mark a similar pole standing near there when the British evacuated New York. They greased the pole but left the British flag flying. An American soldier, Van Arsdale, successfully climbed the pole and lowered the flag before the British departed and raised the Stars and Stripes in its place. On every Evacuation Day since, a descendant of this Van Arsdale hoists the American Flag on this pole at sunrise. The present pole is a steel mast belonging to the yacht Constitution, one of the preliminary defend- ers of America's Cup. The large building on the left is the Barge Office or 38 landing stage for immigrants from Ellis Island. The ferry boat for Ellis Island also leaves here, which makes an interesting side trip and affords an intimate glance of the process through which all immigrants must pass before reaching the "Melting Pot" proper. A short distance from the barge office is the ferry which takes you to the Statue of Liberty on Bedloe's Island. On arrival at the island the visitor may ascend a staircase inside of the statue and look out upon the harbor of New York and the city from a point just below the head. Both of these trips are well worth the short time spent upon them. State Street, facing the Battery, was in the early years of the last century perhaps the most fashionable and exclusive residential quarter of the city. Here lived the Livingstons, Gracies, Lenoxes, Rogers, Coles, Lud- lows, Mortons, Suydams, and other prominent New York families. The building at No. 7, the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary, is about the only one left in its original condition. There are a few others, but greatly altered. Most of them will also soon disappear. It was a beautiful location, commanding superb marine views, combined with the green lawn and handsome shade trees of the park. The adjoining streets, Broad- way, Greenwich and Washington, just off the Battery on the north, were also residences of well-to-do families. At one time Washington Irving lived at No. 16 Broad- way, with his friend Henry Brevoort. He often strolled up to the corner of Cortland Street to visit the Widow Jane Renwick, whose son became afterwards a professor at Columbia College. His son in turn become one of the foremost architects in the city, chief among his works being St. Patrick's Cathedral on Fifth Avenue and the first of the Grand Central Stations — a marvel in its day. The Municipal Ferry to Staten Island also leaves in this immediate neighborhood at the foot of Whitehall 41 Street. This street was named for Stuyvesant's town house, "White Hall." Washington also departed from this point on his return to Annapolis (1783). Tablet marks the site. If you can afford an hour to make the run over and back, it is well worth the trouble. Boats leave every twenty minutes and you may return on the same ferry that takes you over. A good view of Gov- ernor's Island, Fort Lafayette, Fort Hamilton, Fort Schuyler and Castle William and the Narrows is thus enjoyed. Numerous outgoing and incoming steamers will be passed on the way. The famous Sailor's Snug Harbar may be visited while at the island, and a splendid view enjoyed of the Statute of Liberty on Bedloe's Island. Bedloe's Island was bought by the city from Captain Kennedy as far back as 1758. It was ceded to the Federal Government in 1800, who made it one of the outer defenses of the city by erecting a small fort upon it, known as Fort Wood. There is still the suggestion of a fort in the star shaped walls which surround the base of the Statue of Liberty, which, by the way, was a gift from France in 1883. The pedestal of the statue was erected by popular subscription. Governor's Island, in sight of the Battery, is now military headquarters for the Department of the East and a special permit is required to visit the island. Old "Castle Bill," as Castle William is called, is a huge military prison. The island has a large aviation field, besides other interesting features, and a very interesting museum of war relics. The three streets at the west, running north from the Battery, are quite interesting; West Street, facing the river, for its immense shipping; Washington Street for its polyglot population, and Greenwich Street because of its one time splendor. In fact, Greenwich Street in 1825 was called Millionaire's Row and had for residents 42 © Underbill Bowling Green in front of the Custom House. Battery Park. View of incoming liner. Whitehall Building on right A few members of the Bowling Green Neighborhood Association, West Street near the Battery such families as Brockholst Livingston, John Johnston, James Lenox — the same type, in fact, as occupied ex- clusive State Street. Many of these old Greenwich Street buildings are still standing and this section is today a very curious quarter of New York, inasmuch as it remains a residential section with, however, a great difference socially. From the Battery to Vesey Street and from Greenwich to West Street there is a population of about ten thousand. They are crowded into tene- ments made out of old warehouses and former fashion- able houses now fallen into decay. It is estimated tint more than twenty-seven nationalities are represented. The Irish used to dominate, but they have given way to the Poles. Next come Syrians, then Greeks, Armen- ians and peoples from Palestine and Mesopotamia. Quite a business is carried on in needlework and some of the lace work is quite interesting, and their merchandise is sold wholesale and retail throughout the United States. Some modern loft buildings have lately made their ap- pearance, all tenanted by firms with unpronounceable names. One enterprising dealer announces branch offices in Athens, Pereus, Salonica, Bagdad, Cairo, Rhodes and Alexandria — quite a brave showing for a little shop in New York. Naturally the presence of so many families brings with it a corresponding number of children. Both the children and the mothers have found a great friend in the Bowling Green Neighborhood Association, an organ- ization which has voluntarily taken up settlement work. They have provided a playground, a little hall where dances and social affairs can be had; a modest little library; a babies' clinic and other desirable attributes. The infant mortality, from an abnormally high rate, has been reduced to correspond with the average of the city at large, and in other ways the Neighborhood Associa- tion has made for itself a warm spot in the heart of these friendless foreigners. 45 The magnificent office building on Battery Place, just west of Greenwich Street, is the Whitehall Building and houses the Government Weather Bureau. In very hot weather it is always very much cooler up in the tower of this high building, where the temperature is recorded, and the New Yorker sweltering on the parched side- walks six hundred feet below, always adds ten degrees to what the official figures report. The Whitehall Build- ing is headquarters for shipping, export, coal and oil businesses. Important firms are located here and on the top floor is one of the numerous lunch clubs that abound downtown. The view from the dining room win- dows presents what is said to be the most perfect marine picture to be found on the whole coast. On clear days it is possible to see far beyond Long Branch on the Jersey Coast and to Rockaway on the East. Incoming liners can be seen hours before they arrive. West Street which begins off Battery Park and skirts the city, facing the Hudson, is the great shipping sec- tion. It is one long succession of steamers, ships, piers, docks and ferries. Thousands of wagons, motor trucks and every description of moving vehicle are constantly coming and going. A dimunitive street car traverses practically the whole waterfront. Those interested in shipping will find this mode of conveyance a good way of viewing the scene. The car moves leisurely along and stops frequently. You need plenty of time for a trip on the Belt line, as interruptions are frequent and congestion is so great. But this affords opportunity for study and reflection and to jot down a few thoughts on the Traffic of a Great City. New York is now one of the great Ports in the world. Some say it is the greatest, but London still leads slightly. The section along West Street from about Chambers Street to Desbrosses is known as "The Farm." It is the receiving station for all our huge food supplies and 47 to accommodate the bulky merchandise the street lias been widened an extra hundred feet. Here all the Coast line steamships discharge their Southern produce and the great railroads, tapping the rich farming states adjacent to New York bring their huge contributions to the breakfast table of the metropolis. Apples, po- tatoes, garden truck by the thousands of barrels and hundreds of tons, are received almost hourly. The man- ner in which these goods disappear almost instantly is a caution. They are sold right on the pier, moved out- side to the "Farm" and then removed by their new owners. The new style motor trucks carry off as much as ten tons at a time and as the cars themselves weigh six tons, some idea of the wear and tear on the streets of New York is apparent. But the most amazing thing of all is the tremendous amount of goods continually arriving and departing. Something over eight thousand men are engaged in the work of handling alone. Everything is more or less perishable and must be gotten out of the way at once. No wonder a longshoremen's strike is so serious. The Fruit Exchange is located in Franklin Street. Here come all the fruits, foreign and domestic. One can hardly realize that lemons in lots of twenty-five thousand boxes are frequently disposed of in a few moments. Who in the world has use for so many lemons at one time? Oranges and grape fruit from Florida, Porto Rico and California; apples from Oregon, pmes from Hawaii, and the enormous products of the great fruit ranches of the Pacific Coast, here find an outlet. The New York market has an insatiable appetite. It is seemingly a bottomless pit. Every nation in the known world contributes. Cargoes arrive in endless procession. All the fruit sales are by auction and for cash. It is perhaps the last remaining business in which the old custom of selling to the highest bidder still prevails. And it is on a stupendous scale. Practically 49 the entire foreign fruit trade of the country is con- ducted in the few blocks comprised in the "Farm" we are looking at, with the exception of bananas. These are brought in by the ships of the great White Fleet ol the United Fruit Company and unloaded directly onto lighters alongside the steamers at their docks, lo- cated just a little south of the Farm, and from there shipped direct to all parts of the country. Thousands of bunches are handled daily. Just beyond the "Farm" begins the famous old Ganse- voort Market. There used to be a fort of the same name here m olden days. It resembles closely Covent Gar- den in London. All the Long Island farmers with their garden truck piled way up high and covered with canvas like a hay wagon, occupy one side of the square. They sell direct to the green grocers who come from all parts of the city. Across from the market gardeners are the dealers in all kinds of Live Poultry: chickens, ducks, geese, turkeys, guinea-hens, quail, partridge and every conceivable kind of bird. The New York Central tracks come in here from the West and on their sidings stand the newly arrived re- frigerating cars with dressed meats. Armour, Swift, Hammond, Cudahy, Wilson and all the great packers are represented. It is the great wholesale meat section and supplies the mammoth hotels, butchers, delicatessen shops, etc. Leaving the market we come into the Chelsea Im- provement Section, one of the most notable triumphs of a municipality in the reclamation of a water front. This was formerly a region of antiquated wooden piers, dropping away piecemeal from sheer rottenness. The old ISth Street dock in particular was to the New York boy forty years ago what the old swimmin' hole is to the country boy today. The head of that old dock is now far inland. Delamater's old Iron Works were here in those days and Ericsson, who lived on Beach Street, 50 nearby, superintended the building of his famous iron clad Monitor at these yards. Holland bought his idea for an undersea boat here also and the first practical Submarine was launched from the same yard that pro- duced the Iron Clad. Both these ideas revolutionized naval architecture the world over, and to little old New York belongs the credit of their origin. Something of this prophetic vision appears to be in- digenous to this neighborhood. When the project of reclaiming this run down water front by a series of docks of such immensity that private capital demurred at the undertaking, perhaps the success of the Monitor and the Submarine gave the authorities the needed cour- age to embark on the enterprise as a municipal work. Too much cannot be said of the success of what is now known the world .over as the Chelsea Docks, head- quarters of the great Transatlantic lines, White Star, Cunard, American, etc. They are a thousand feet long. Their massive concrete flooring resists all attempts at wear and tear and will remain after the Appian Way is forgotten. The architect of these docks has also recog- nized the value of beauty in their construction. Mari- time mythological figures ornament the exterior. The lines of the buildings are impressive. It is somewhat difficult to describe exactly the solid satisfaction which perspective gives the beholder. Massiveness and strength are blendefl with the refining influence of chas- tity in design. The broad plazas in front, the generous approaches .from the street, make this Improvement, one of which the city can well afford to boast. Nor is the beneficent result of this superior architecture con- fined to the Docks themselves. The surrounding build- inos are fast being brought into harmony with the digni- fied lines of the Chelsea Improvement, the splendid 51 The great thousand-foot Chelsea piers on North River, ownei by the City West Side shipping centre. Looking up West Street fror Battery Park © American Studios structures of the National Biscuit Company being a case in point. The success of this experiment has been so great that the city is extending the system between ^ith and 59th Streets. Directly opposite these dcoks, on the Hoboken side, is the former home of the great North German Lloyd and Hamburg- American lines. Their once proud fleets now fly the American flag after the most ignominious and contemptible surrender in the history of sea power. These docks have witnessed many stirring scenes during the last two years. Nearly four million American boys sailed to and returned from France from this point of embarkation. The property now belongs to the Fed- eral Government. On this side also are miles and miles of railroad cars bearing another of the city's prime necessities — coal. Trainload after trainload follows each other continu- ously up a trestle to a towering coal heap containing thousands of other tons and are emptied automatically. This huge pile never seems to change. Notwithstand- ing the constant additions by the never-ending line of fresh supplies there is a counter eff'ect in the deliveries to boats, lighters, etc., at the water edge which equalizes things. Resuming our interrupted walk, we come to the 23rd Street Ferries just above the Chelsea docks. Most of the boats are still running except the Pennsylvania. Here you connect with the Central, Erie and Lacka- wanna roads to Jersey City. The passenger traffic, however, now goes by the Hud- son Tubes, the ferries being mostly for vehicles. It remains, nevertheless, an important transit point though robbed of much of its former bustle and would hardly be recognized by the old New Yorker who recalls the days of its bygone lvaiua on way lo Bruuklyn >;avy Yard The Seaman's Church Institute. Memorial Fountain to brave Jack Binns and other heroes of the saddest ^of sea tragedies, the sinking of the "Titanic" of St. Nicholas, in whose custody it now is. This old Dutch City Hall was succeeded by the one already de- scribed on the corner of Wall Street and Nassau. At No. 90 is a tablet commemorating one of the most destructive fires that ever visited any city — the great fire of 1835, which destroyed over twenty million dol- lars worth of property, an almost unbelievable sum for these days. How New York ever survived such a calam- ity is hard to understand. This fire, however, did much to hasten the construction of the Croton Aqueduct, whereby running water in houses became possible, a public benefit which ultimately proved of greater value in many ways than the huge loss caused by this fire. The rather wide street at Coenties Slip is now a small public park — the Jeanette, named after the Herald's Arctic Expedition ship. In the filling-in process of this slip, part of the original fleet of canal boats lie buried, that came from Buffalo to New York Harbor bringing casks of Lake Erie water to mingle with the Atlantic. The magnificent building on the corner of South Street is the far famed Seaman's Institute, which looks after the welfare of Jack ashore. It has been of inestimable benefit to this element, and its admonition to "WRITE HOME," which greets you on almost every floor of the splendid buildings is only one of the really prac- tical good things it has done. A magnificent lantern, on a tower of the roof, discernable thirty miles from shore, is a tribute to the fidelity of the officers and crew of the ill fated Titanic. A tablet records the -main inci- dents of this saddest of all sea tragedies. The Broad Street Hospital and its Wonderful New Additions Near the heart of the financial district and counted a distinct part of it is the Broad Street Hospital, a stone's throw from the imposing building of the Seaman's In- 116 stitute. This institution overlooks the East River and its rapid growth has been marvellous. Starting as a small receiving hospital in 1914, it had its own building only two years later. Its extended service now compels the construction of additional units and by 1920 it will occupy an imposing edifice, second only to Bellevue Hospital. Although most of its cases come from the financial district, there are a great many from along the waterfront, so that the financier and the longshoreman are treated side by side. The first of these new units is to be dedicated to Colonel Theodore Roosevelt; the last to the late Mr. Harry S. Harkness. The first, or original, unit has been named after Herbert Barber, brother of James Bar- ber, of whom Dr. A. J. Barber Savage, superintendent, recently wrote, in dedicating a treatise on group medi- cine: "This work is respectfully inscribed as a token of affectionate esteem and in acknowledgment of that generous financial and moral support prompted by his interest in medical science and that far- sighted vision which made possible the Broad Street Hospital." In the matter of its sponsors the Broad Street Hos- pital is exceedingly fortunate. While the completed list is not yet ready for publication, it is certain that the future board of governors will contain the names of many men celebrated in the world of finance and pro- duction. That Henry L. Doherty, Charles E. Danforth, Elisha Walker, James Barber, Oakley Wood, Dr. Wil- liam H. DiefFenbach, William Hamlin Childs, Col. Wal- ter Scott, Edward L. Wemple, George C. Luebbers, Hon. Charles Strauss, Julien Stevens Ulman, and Dr. Robert T. Morris are already, and have been, associated with the Broad Street Hospital is suggestive of the list as it will appear when finished. No hospital in this respect will be so richly endowed. 118 The Eastern Hotel, a block from the Seaman's Insti- tute, is one of our oldest buildings and the oldest hotel in town. The beams are of solid mahogany, brought from South America as ballast. In former years it was a notable hostelry and entertained Daniel Webster, Rob- ert Fulton, Jenny Lind, Commodore Vanderbilt and other notables. There are quite a few interesting things still to be seen in this neighborhood, but I have covered the most important. In front of the building at the corner of South William and Beaver Streets are four ancient mar- ble columns brought from Pompeii by the late Lorenzo Delmonico in 1840, whose downtown restaurant occupied this building. At No. 13 South William Street is a house built in imitation of the old Dutch style. This is the real estate office of the Amos R. Eno Estate, whose father built the Fifth Avenue Hotel. At 51 Whitehall Street is a tablet to mark the old Whitehall Ferry, where Washington sailed for Mt. Ver- non after taking leave of his officers at Fraunces' Tav- ern, as already described. Whitehall Street was named after Stuyvesant's town house "White Hall," which stood near the corner of Pearl and Whitehall Streets. At 23 another tablet marks the site of the home of the most noted preacher in the early days of the Dutch Church, Dominie Bogardus. His wife, Anneke Jans, owned the celebrated farm which ultimately became the property of Trinity Church. One of Anneke's sisters was not quite competent mentally, and was not present at the time the will was read disposing of the farm to Trinity Church. It is on this alleged circumstance that all this litigation against Trinity arose. For nearly a century unscrupulous lawyers have fattened on the credulity of the heirs of Anneke Jans by claiming that this fact ren- dered the will null and void. The prospect of owning a couple of miles of property in the heart of New 119 York is very alluring and no wonder the poor wretches succumbed to the temptation. Notwithstanding that a law has been passed by the State of New York to pro- hibit any further suits being brought against Trinity on this, or any other ground so far as their property is concerned, the nuisance has not yet wholly abated. We have now quite thoroughly explored the financial district and will continue our trip up Broadway to the City Hall. 120 A view on Fulton Street, named after the inventor of tiio steamship. Looking east, St. Paul's churchyard on left. Underhill KB I ^^ m.-^ mm OUR CIVIC CENTER Broadway North from Trinity Church to the City Hall OLD ST. Paul's, the post office, the astor house, the wool- wort BUILDING, TAMMANY HALL, NEWSPAPER ROW, PRINTING HOUSE SQ'UARE, THE MUNICIPAL BUILDING, HALL OF RECORDS, THE TOMBS, ETC., ETC. l^fORTH of Trinity is a magnificent building named ^ after the church. It is in gothic architecture and one of the most notable in appearance on Broadway. Adjoining it is the Realty Building and beyond that at Thames Street is a tablet marking the site of a famous tavern in Revolutionary days, Burns' Coffee House, headquarters of the Sons of Liberty of whom, more here- after. Then comes the well-known Singer Building, the first to possess a tower of important height. Years ago on Broadwa}'-, about opposite the great Singer Building, stood a cluster of buildings which re- calls another curious feature of old Broadway — the mar- kets. This one became known as "Oswego Market." It became a great nuisance and finally the Common Council ordered its removal to the river front near Cort- landt Street, where it changed its name to Washington Market. By that name every New Yorker knows it, but 122 Unique view near the municipal centre of New ^ork. The Post Office, Municipal Building in the middle distance. Park Row Building and old Astor House, Woolworth Building on the left and St. Paul's Building on the right. Note how small St. Paul's Church appears in the centre few realize that it has an ancestry almost as ancient and honorable as any institution in New York. The Hudson Terminal Buildings^ the City Investing Building, the Title Guarantee Trust Company, the Broadway Maiden Lane Building, the Lawyers' Title Insurance Company, old St. John's Church, the father of Methodism in America, just off Broadway on John Street, the wonderful new building of the American Telegraph and Telephone Company on the site of the old Western Union structure, the great National Park Bank and the St. Paul Building, complete the notable structures between Trinity and St. Paul's Chapel. St. Paul's Chapel is our oldest church edifice now standing. Built in 1766, it ranks high among our few colonial treasures. Old St. Paul's Chapel Curiously enough, the Broadway end of the building is the rear, for the church was built fronting on the river; and in the old days a pleasant lawn sloped down to the water's edge, which was then on the line of Greenwich Street. One effect of St. Paul's thus looking away from Broadway, is to give us at the portal an increased sense of remoteness from the great thorough- fare and of isolation from its strenuous life, so that all the more readily we yield to the pervading spell of the churchyard's peaceful calm. It is modeled after St. Martin's in the Fields, London. After the burning of Trinity in 1776, St. Paul's be- came the parish church; here worshipped Lord Howe and Major Andre and the English midshipman who was afterward King George IV. After his inauguration at Federal Hall in Wall Street, President Washington and both houses of Congress came in solemn procession to 124 St. Paul's^ where service was conducted by Bishop Pro- vost, Chaplain of the Senate, and a Te Deum was sung. Thereafter, so long as New York remained the capital, the President was a regular attendant here; his diary for Sunday after Sunday contains the entry: "Went to St. Paul's Chapel in the forenoon." Washington's pew remains today as it was then; it is midway of the church on the left aisle, and is marked by the Arms of the United States on the wall. Across the church is the pew which was reserved for the Governor of the State, and was occupied by Governor Clinton ; above it are the State Arms. The pulpit canopy is ornamented with the gilded crest of the Prince of Wales, a crown surmounted by three ostrich feathers. It is the only emblem of royalty that escaped destruction at the hands of the Patriots when they came into possession of the city in 1784. In the wall of the Broadway portico, where it is seen from the street and is observed by innumerable eyes daily, is the ISIontgomery Monument, in memory of Major-General Richard Montgomery, who commanded the expedition against Canada in 1775, and on Decem- ber 31st of that year, in company with Colonel Benedict Arnold (afterwards the traitor), led the assault upon Quebec, where he fell, mortally wounded. Aaron Burr bore his body from the field, and the Englisl men gave it a soldier's burial in the city. Forty-three years later, in 1818, Canada surrendered the remains to the United States. At that time Mrs. Montgomery, in the forty- third year of her widowhood, was living near Tarrytown on the Hudson. Governor Clinton had told her of the day when the steamboat Richmond, bearing her hus- band's remains, would pass down the river; and sitting alone on the piazza of her home she watched for its coming. With what emotions she saw the pageant is told in a letter written to her niece: 125 St. Paul's Chapel and American Telephone & Telegraph Co. building on Broadway and Dey Street. "At length they came by with all that remained of a beloved husband, who left me in the bloom of man- hood, a perfect being-. Alas! how did he return? How- ever gratifying to my heart, yet to my feelings every pang I felt was renewed. The pomp with which it was conducted added to my woe; when the steamboat passed with slow and solemn movement, stopping before my house, the troops under arms, the Dead March from the muffled drums, the mournful music, the splendid coffin canopied with crepe and crowned with plumes, you may conceive my anguish. I cannot describe it." Curiously enough^ Mrs. Montgomery and Mrs. Ham- ilton each survived the deaths of their husbands nearly fifty years. And what changes they witnessed ! St. Peter's Church, corner Church Street and Barclay, is the oldest Roman Catholic church building in Man- hattan, established 1786. It has a tablet to Governor Dongan, who obtained the first charter for New York, giving the people a voice in the general government. Next comes the post-office, which is directly opposite the Woolworth Building. Inside the street corridor is a bronze bust and memorial to Postmaster Pearson, who did much to remove this branch of the public business from political spoilsmen. Near the Western entrance is a tablet to commemorate the site of the old Lib- erty Pole, erected by the Sons of Liberty in 1765. It stood just North of the post-office. The present build- ing was completed in 1876, but is already superseded by an up-to-the-minute structure opposite the Pennsyl- vania Station on Eighth Avenue, and the building you are now looking at may soon be a thing of the past. A movement to remove the post office and to re-erect the old Liberty Pole which stood in the park in Revolu- tionary days, as a war memorial to the Liberty Boys of 1918 is also underway. A group of ol 1 New Yorkers has the project in charge. A more detailed account of this important undertaking is given in a special chapter. Emerging from the post-office and continuing up Broadway, we pass the old Astor House, for more than 127 half a century the wonder of New York and the best- known hotel m this part of the world. It is now an office building. Across the street is perhaps the most beautiful and impressive building ever erected for purely commercial purposes, the Woolworth Building. No greater tribute to the worth of small things could be devised, for all the world knows that it was built out of the profits of the five-and-ten-cent stores, and that within thirty days after completion it was free and clear of all debts or liabilities of any kind. It is sup- posed to have cost between seven and eight millions. While we are in this building we might speak of the genuine pleasure that the tourist may derive from a visit to any of the numerous towers in certain high buildings which are now available. Constructed origin- ally for ornament, these towers have turned out to be the best revenue producers contained in the building. Some are said to earn a hundred thousand dollars a year. The individual fee, however, is very slight, fifty cents, and the visitor can nowhere receive so much for his money as in a visit to either the Singer, Metropolitan or Woolworth Towers. It is a veritable aeroplane trip with none of the dangers of the real thing. We are many hundred feet up in the air, and it will give you something really inter- esting to talk about for the rest of your days. This ascent is made in regular passenger elevators part way, from which point you ch'ange for another set of elevators that carry you the remaining distance to the top. What happens when you step out on to the balcony of the tower and gaze at the city in the distance below is something that is not easily described. If the weather happens to be one of those wonderfully beautiful days, clear and without a cloud in the sky, as so frequently happens in New York," the scene is bewildering. There is first an uncanny quietness all about you — the roar 128 and the noise of the street completely disappear. Roads that seemed packed with people now seem to have quite considerable patches of space between the crowds, and the figures are dwarfed till they look like little ants running hither and thither. It is quite a thrilling expe- rience. Opposite the Post Office on the East side is the huge 30-story Park Row Building, which stands on the site of one of New York's oldest theatres — the Park. An alley at the rear, still called Theatre Alley, was orig- inally the stage passage to the theatre. Junius Brutus Booth, Edmund Kean, Edwin Forrest, Fanny Elssler, Fanny Kemble, and other noted stars were seen here. A grand ball was given to Charles Dickens during his visit in 1842. Its memory is still kept green in New York. Opposite the City Hall is the entrance to the Brooklyn Bridge, the first and most famous of all the bridges spanning the East River. A very excellent view of the city may be had from the tower on the New York side. It is a short walk on the promenade. Both trolleys and elevated trains cross the bridge, but so many pillars and posts are in the way that any attempt to obtain a good sight of the river and bay is foredoomed to failure. Do not attempt to make use of the bridge dur- ing the rush hours. That is sacred to the mob. The fountain that stands in the park is located a little north of where the first fountain stood, which was erected in 1842, when running water was first introduced into New York. The building corner of Frankfort Street and Park Row, occupied for sixty years by the "Sun" is on the site of the original Tammany Hall headquarters. This was their first permanent location. As this is rather a famous organization, both outside of New York as well as in it, perhaps some details regarding its origin may not be amiss. It came into existence in 1789. Colonel 129 Striking effect of the Woolworth Building at night. Marinus WiUett, one of our earliest Mayors had been n the South negotiating a treaty ^ith the Creek Indian Ind returned to New York with one of their chiefs and twenty-eight warriors of the tribe. They were received wTmuch enthusiasm all along the route and ^^en they Teached New York imagine their surprise to be met and welcomedapparently by a brother tribe At all events, rdergation greeted them dressed in full Indian cos- tum bucktaifs and all, which assumed entire charge of the proceedings and conducted the puzzled Creeks to FederafHall and into the presence of the G-at White Father' Such was the first appearance of Tammany HaU in the annals of New York. It was a eleven piece of advertising and proclaimed the existence of the long expected rival Democratic organization to the rather aristocratic Society of Cincinnati, presided over by Washington, Hamilton and others. Opposite the Sun is the World Building, from whose tower a magnificent view of lower New York and the Harbor may be had. This section is known as News paper Kow/' most of the large dailies havmg their pub^ lication offices here. Frankfort Stree, going East from this corner, was named after the birthplace of Jacob Leisler, the only man to meet death for a purely polit ca offense in all the history of this city. Jacob Street, just below William, is named after his son-in-law, who per- ished with him. This occurred in 1691 and the State later acknowledged its error by restoring the f amily s property. A statue of Benjamin Frankhn patron saint of fhe printers, stands in the middle of the open space fronting the Tribune Building and which is known as Printing House Square. In Duane Street, just east of Park Row is another related branch of the great dailies-the Newsboys Lodg- ino- House-a most worthy organization. Besides car- ing for many homeless waifs and providing warmth and 131 shelter in the winter months, it affords comfortable, clean rooms all through the year. At Christmas they have a Christmas dinner that long ago became famous. This is quite an old institution for New York, as it was founded by J. Loring Brace in 1853. It is now admin- istered bv the Children's Aid ^^oeirtv. 132 % ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^■1 ^^■hLhms . -itfl - ■'' \1-'^ ■- ■ 'im HK^^'1 i 1 ! bills: g $ s r s^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^HBH ^ The Crush at Brooklyn Bridge Every Night Opposite City Hall. OUR CITY HALL TUT A VI NG explored the surrounding environmenL we -*- -■- will now enter the City Hall itself. It is open to visitors from 10 to 4 on week days and 10 to 12 on Saturdays. Ascending the steps, the visitor finds himself in a central rotunda, with curving stairs leading to a circu- lar gallery on the second floor. In this gallery, on the north side stands a statue of Thomas Jefferson. On the south side, opposite the stairs, is the entrance to the Governor's Room, now held ready for the Governor of the State when he visits New York. The furniture in these rooms, of solid mahogany, con- sists of the original chairs and tables used in the old Federal Building at Wall and Nassau Streets. Through a donation of Mrs. Russell Sage in 1909 and Mr. George McAneny, with subsequent gifts amounting altogether to $65,000, these rooms have been restored to their original serene and simple dignity. The few ornaments, clocks, candlesticks, etc., on the mantel shelves, while not his- torically associated with City Hall, have been sought 134 out with much pains and are strictly of the correct period and appropriate in style. One of the valued relics here shown is a portion of a limb of Peter Stuyvesant's pear tree. The building possesses two desks used by Washington in Federal Hall and is filled with a large number of portraits by Trumbull^ Inman, Weir and other well known artists. They are mostly of persons connected with the City or State of New York, Mayors of New York, Governors, etc., also a goodly representation of historic characters not necessarily New Yorkers. The attendant in the Governor's room has been in charge many years and takes great pleasure in explaining all the attractions of the building to those who express an inter- est in them. The present City Hall is the third building erected by the city (1812) for the administration of the muni- cipal affairs. The first was the Stadt Huys, at the cor- ner of Pearl Street and Coenties Slip, erected by the Dutch originally and continued by the English. It was demolished in 1700 and the new building at the corner of Wall and Nassau Streets took its place. It was suc- ceeded by the one we are now visiting (1812). Almost every important happening of an official char- acter takes place at the City Hall and the list of its famous receptions is a very long one. Nearly every big visitor to the United States lands here first, from Lafay- ette to the distinguished returning soldiers, who are here decorated by the Mayor in the presence of notables and the public; so it makes history all the time. Gen'i Pershing and King Albert were among the latest. The offices of the Mayor and the Borough President are still maintained in the City Hall, but the great army of clerks required to conduct the city's business are housed in an entirely different building. When it is remembered that eighty-five thousand persons are on the 135 city's permanent pay roll and that this number some- times is increased to one hundred and twenty thousand temporarih'^ it will be readily seen that the city's needs have tremendously outgrown the office facilities provided for it in 1812. There are many other interesting things to see in the City Hall which, for lack of space^ we are unable to enumerate here^ such as the punch bowf used at the Erie Canal celebration and various other old mementoes of the city's past. Outside the building is a tablet recording the fact that the Declaration of Independence was read to the Continental Army here, July 9th, 1776, General Wash- ington being present. Another tablet brings us sharply to more prosaic things by marking the spot where ground was first broken in the construction of the subway. The statue of Nathan Hale by MacMonnies is one of our most cherished possessions and is well worth a visit by any one at all interested in that splendid character. The Municipal Building Leaving the City Hall we walk a short distance to Chambers Street, where stands the workshop of the city, to which we have just referred, and which is officially known as the Municipal Building. Some 7,500 city clerks are employed here. It is a huge structure, 450 by 300 feet. It is 40 stories high, or 564 feet. It cost about twelve million dollars. A wide vaulted passage allows for the con- tinuation of Chambers Street through the building. It is striking architectually, and its massive sculpture is very impressive. It has not much attraction for the sightseer, as it is strictly a business office building and devotes all its time to the work of the day. The Marriage License Bureau and the marrying facilities are all that is out of the usual. 136 Mayor Hylan greets the young Prince on the steps of the City Hall and presents him with the freedom^ of the City, thereby makine^ him a New Yorker. u. & u. Beyond the great Municipal Building is another quaint little bit of the city's oddities — the little red brick Catholic Church of St. Andrews, the rector of which is also Chaplain of the City Prison. Every morning at 2 A. M. mass is said here for the benefit of night work- ers in this neighborhood and a goodly attendance is the general rule. To those unacquainted with this phase of metropolitan existence, the great number of persons who work at night and sleep in the day is a matter of great surprise. Bryan once made a speech to this class of our population and was surprised to find an audience that filled Printing House Square and extended well back into City Hall Park. St. Andrew's is a land mark downtown and greatly beloved. The residence of Gov- ernor Alfred E. Smith is within a short distance from St. Andrew's, which he occasionally attends. At present a large clear space extends from St. An- drew's back several blocks. This is the site chosen for the new County Court House. The accepted design shows a building modeled after the Coliseum at Rome, and when carried out New York will have a civic centre of great beauty. Nothing can be done, however, to carry out this scheme till the ugly post office is removed. Toward the bridge entrance is another tablet to mark the former site of another of New York's famous Revo- lutionary buildings, removed to make room for the sub- way — the old Register's Office, built in 1758 as a debt- ors' prison. During the Revolution this building was used as a military prison by the British, among whom was no less a personage than Ethan Allen, conquerer of Ticonderago. It was torn down in 1903 and thus dis- appeared another old landmark. Back of the City Hall still stands Bill Tweed's six million dollar Court House. A meaner looking build- ing for the money was never built. It ought to come down. The room is needed and surely if we can afford 138 to dispense with a historic structure like the Register's Office we can afford to be without a reminder of the swindling activities of the Tweed Ring. With this building and the Post Office removed, the park would be restored to its graceful proportions of Colonial days. Another municipal structure, the new Hall of Rec- ords, on Chambers Street, opposite the City Hall, is con- spicuous by the statues of Duane, Colden, Hine, Heath- cote, Stuyvesant, De Vries and Clinton — all eminent New Yorkers of bygone days. The allegorical, groups represent the purchase of Manhattan in 1626 and con- solidation of the greater city in 1898. The interior of the building is of great interest. The records cover practically every phase of the city's history since the beginning. Its collection of old Dutch maps and other items of earliest days is very complete. Inspection of these old documents is readily permitted. The large building west of the Hall of Records is the old store of New York's first Merchant Prince, A. T. Stewart. In the 40's this was the retail store, but later the establishment at Broadway and Ninth Street was erected. In its day the Stewart business was unique for size and earning capacity. Stewart is buried in old St. Mark's Church. His bodj^ was stolen shortly after it was interred and the crime was the sensation of the day. The building was recently purchased by Mr. Frank A. Munsey, the publisher, who will soon erect upon it a buildng to house the Sun and his other publications. The Emigrant Industrial Savings Bank, east of the Stewart Building, is a very rich and conservative institution. The Martin B. Brown Co., a famous city printer, who' prints election ballots, etc., has the adjoining establish- ment. North of the City Hall along Centre Street are some important public buildings that are worth a visit. In the block facing Centre, Leonard, Lafayette and Frank- 139 lin Streets is the Toinbs or City Prison. The span con- necting the buildings is popularly known as the "Bridge of Sighs/' as prisoners after receiving sentence return over this bridge and get their last glimpse of freedom from here. A permit to visit the prison may be obtained upon application to the Department of Correction, 224 Leonard Street. Some interesting mural decorations are contained in the rooms of the Supreme Court. Just above the Tombs is the Headquarters of the Po- lice Department, which contains the famous Rogues' Gallery and the room where the daily lineup of criminals takes place so that the detectives may scan their features for future reference. Other rooms are for the usual requirements of such a department. A large mural painting over the judge's desk in the trial room portrays the same site in early times* This building stands on the site of what was formerly a miniature lake — the Collect Pond. It was 60 feet deep and on it John Fitch sailed the first model of a steam- boat while Fulton and Livingston viewed the trial from the bank. Fulton's attempt succeeded while Fitch's failed, but many persons believed that the idea was the latter's originally, but he did not secure the financial backing necessary to develop his plans, while Fulton did. East of this group of buildings is an Italian section and the much vaunted Chinatown. The civilizing in- fluence of Columbus Park, in conjunction with adequate police supervision, has made this region much less crim- inal than formerly. Baxter Street, too, is now eminently respectable, while the Five Points is perfectly harmless. 142 m^i^ The French Mission Arrives — The late Joseph Choate escorting Minister Viviani and Marshal Joffre from the famous landing stage on the Battery to their reception by Mayor Mitchel at the City Hall. Tremendous crowd that showed Field Marshal Joffre how much New \ ork adinired the great French General. Scene outside the City Hall when the French Mission arrived. /f^ T„t i.- Ncw-yorit May 20, 1 766. Joy to AMERICA ! At 3 this Day arrived here an Exprefs from Bojlo^ v/ith the following mod glorious News, on which //. Gawe congratulates the Friends oi America. Bojlorjy Friday ii o'Clock, i6th May, 1766. This Day arrived here the Brig Harrifon^ belong- ing to yohn Hamock^ Efq; Capt. Shutael Coffin y in 6 Weeks and 2 Days from London y with the following moft agreeable Intellicrence, viz. Broadside Announcing Repeal of the Stamp hc^ THE FAMOUS OLD LIBERTY POLE IN CITY HALL PARK Tl^HEN the present-day New Yorker regards the ^ seething bustle of people and traffic with City Hall Park as a center, and the diminutive cupola of City Hall completely overshadowed by the towering Wool- worth Building and the other neighboring skyscrapers, it is somewhat difficult to realize that our city was for over a hundred years a little less than a rude hamlet on the outskirts of a howling wilderness. Pigs were the main reliance for keeping the streets clean, and as a result yellow fever devastated the village at regular intervals. In 1723, almost a century after its settlement, the white population was only 5,886, with about 1,500 slaves — con- siderably less than is housed in our Municipal Building of today. Pumps were in the middle of the street. The Fire Department consisted of a number of leather buck- ets kept by each citizen in the front hall. 145 To the Inhabitants of this City. WHEREAS fomc unhappy Differences have lately hap- pened bctvveen the Inhabitants aiid the Soldiers ; I am authorized to inform tlie FubHck, That to avoid the like for the future, Orders are ifl'ued by the Gi-.neral, That no Soldiers arc to go out of their Barracks, off Duty, unlcfs under the Command of a Non-commiirioned officer, who is to be anfwerahlc for the orderly Behaviour of the Soldiers, and take Care tiiat they oflbr no Infuit to the Inhabitants ; and this Order will be ftnC^ly obferved till the Amity and Fricndfhip that (lioulJ fubfill among the King's Subjedls, is rcftored ; and in Cafe the Citizens aSufe thorn, they are to endeavour to difcover the Oti'eiidcrs, and report them to a Magiflrate, that they mri) he proceeded againlt ac- cording to Law ; Therefore when Soldiers are fecn marching a- bout in Numbers, the Inhabitants are not to be akirrned, as it will be in Confequence of the above-mentioned Or.'crs. Tnis Precaution it is hoped, will prevent further l\:!5, fcllc^re Peace, and quiet the Minds of the People ; and It is expcc^-uc!,,, that the Inhabitants, on their Parts, will promote every good Infcnticn to prcfcrve Peace and good Order. Jffri^;^' W. HICKS, Myw. Broadside, apologizing for the assaults committed by the soldiers on the Sons of Liberty in defense of the Liberty Pole. While the "palisade" stretched across the city through what is now Wall Street, the settlers used to drive their cattle through the Land Gate just above Trinity Church up Broadway to City Hall Park, then called the Com- mon Lands, or public pasture. The city owned the land and any one could use it who wished. After a while, the jail was built upon it and the poor house and what there was of a hospital. Other city buildings like those on Randall's Island were added later. There were no newspapers, and current events trav- elled by word of mouth or by "Broadsides" pasted up in taverns or on the trees of the "Common" or "Fields." It was exactly a whole century after the settlement be- fore the first weekly paper was started — the Gazette, in 1725, by William Bradford. It was subsidized by the Crown and not till the appearance of John Peter Zeng- er's Journal, some years later, was there a real "peo- ple's" paper. The Journal had the assurance, several times, to criti- cize what the authorities did and was promptly sup- pressed for its temerity. Finally its editor was thrown into jail. This caused great excitement through all the Colonies, and Andrew Hamilton, the greatest lawyer of his day, came from Philadelphia to defend the Journal. He succeeded in clearing Zenger, and thus was won a tremendous victory for liberty, as it established the Freedom of the Press. In the meantime, the City Hall Park became by com- mon consent, the rallying place for all public meetings. The passage of the Stamp Act in 1765 caused intense anger from one end of the Colonies to the other, and the repeal of this obno'xious measure was everywhere demanded. Public indignation found expression in numerous meetings in the "Fields." During the course of the debate in Parliament, a friendly member used the term "Sons of Liberty" in 147 referring to the American Colonists. This name was immediately adopted by numerous secret organizations which sprang at once into existence while the fate of the repeal was in doubt. When the King finally sur- rendered and a peaceful settlement ensued, the grateful people of New York held a huge Thanksgiving meeting on the Commons and, amid great enthusiasm, erected a high pole bearing the inscription, "The King, Pitt and Liberty" — the first Liberty Pole, around which for some time to come the people rallied at the first sign of any attempt to again impose Taxation without Representa- tion. This being the outward and visible sign of inward hos- tility to autocracy, the Liberty Pole met with much dis- favor by the authorities. In a few days this pole was cut down by soldiers attached to the 28th Regiment, then stationed here in the local barracks. The next day, while the citizens were preparing to erect another pole, they were attacked by the soldiers and several of the Sons of Liberty were severely hurt. A second pole was erected, but it suffered the fate of the first. Within two days a third arose and this time it was allowed to stand, as public opinion was again assuming a dangerous aspect. A year later when the citizens gathered to celebrate the anniversary of the repeal of the Stamp Act, the meeting aroused the anger of the authorities, and the soldiers again leveled the pole to the ground. And an- other pole — this time more substantial and bound with iron rings — rose in its place. It stood for three years. On January 13, 1770, an attempt to destroy this pole led to very serious consequences. The soldiers were driven off but returned with reinforcements and attacked a party of Liberty Boys in front of their Headquarters opposite the Commons. They were ordered back to their barracks, but renewed the fight two days later. This 148 encounter suddenly assumed alarming proportions and the conflict lasted two days, in which several lives were lost. Thus was spilled the first blood of the Revolu- tion, and it occurred two months before the Boston massacre. New York rarely speaks of it as an event of the first importance, yet such it really was. This pole, too, ultimately met the fate of its prede- cessors. Matters had now reached such a stage that something had to be done. In order to furnish no further excuse for interference by the authorities, it was decided to erect the pole on private ground just outside the limits of the Common, but for all practical purposes still on public land. The pole was outside the "Fields," but the crowd stood on the Common. By reference to the various Broadsides printed herewith by courtesy of the New York Historical Society, you will be able to see just how the people resented this interference with the Liberty Pole and how they finally bought their own plot of ground and erected a new pole on private prop- erty. The last pole was a substantial structure and stood till after the Revolution. It was a huge mast, 44 feet high, vrith a topmast 22 feet additional, and sunk twelve feet in the ground. It was encased for two-thirds of its length in iron bands and hoops firmly riveted together. It was surmounted by a gilt vane bearing the words — "Liberty and Prosperity," but with no reference to the King, or loyalty, as in the first instance. The temper of the people had radically changed. An attempt to destroy this pole a few weeks later precipitated another situation that threatened to rival in seriousness the affair in which lives had already been lost, and brought the authorities to a realization of con- sequences which they were illy prepared to face. British officers drove the soldiers back to their barracks and a guard was placed about the pole. The soldiers involved 149 were sent South to Pensacola and the pole remained unmolested until 1776, when the British took possession of the city. It was then immediately destroyed. Before this happened, however, Washington had the pleasure of reading the Declaration of Independence to the as- sembled citizens, almost at the base of the Liberty Pole. A bronze tablet on the City Hall commemorates this event. From this brief chronology we see how closely the Liberty Pole is identified with the stirring events that led up to the destruction of Autocracy in the new world (also under a German King, though on an English throne). It has been suggested that the old post office be removed and the historic Liberty Pole re-erected on its site as a memorial to our heroes in the great World War. What a magnificent tribute it would be to our splendid boys, if we were able to erect to their memories this simple monument that means so much. It stands for all our dear country stands for. It is the Soul of America and the symbol of our great Republic. It is the Gettys- burg Speech visualized! Nor is it within the power of marble or bronze to create a structure that would approach it in spiritual beauty and meaning. It seems only yesterday that we saw them marching to camp, mothers, wives and sweethearts clinging to their arms. And when they sailed away, three months later, that inspiring toast, written by one of their number from old Kentucky, Morrow Mayo, comes to mind: "Here's to the Blue of the windswept North When we meet on the Fields of France May the spirit of Grant be with you all As the Sons of the North advance! Here's to the Gray of the sunkissed South When we meet on the Fields of France May the spirit of Lee be with you all As the Sons of the South advance! And here's to the Blue and the Gray as one When we meet on the Fields of France, May the spirit of God be with us all As the Sons of the Flag advance!" * 150 On the base of the monument let there be inscribed these words : In Loving Memory of the Liberty Boys of 1918 PEOPLE OF THB CITY OF NEW VOEK Will the citizens of New York arise to this glorious opportunity? The old City Hall Park restored to its ancient grandeur! An obsolete and out of d^^ build tag remfved, light, air and generous space taking its place in a congested section ! This movement is now under way. Any citizen can help with his approval and his moral support. Talk about it to your neighbors. Bring it up in your schoo s your clubs, your societies and your churches^ f you are a member of a patriotic society bring >' *« fe at tention of your officers Agitate! agitate! agitate JTh Federal Government, heretofore deaf to all entreaties to remove the Post Office, will heed the demand oiaU the people for so obvious and so appropriate a monu ment to its heroic dead ! Every week we should have some good speaker preaching the Gospel of Sound, Patriotic, Amencanism ^t the To!t of the Liberty Pole. We need some rallying ^Uc^some fountain head of inspiration to counteract The mischievious talk of the Bolshevist. The New York Historical Society and the Sons of the Revolution have assumed charge of this move- ment to erect the Pole and eliminate ^e Post Offi e and reports of their progress will be seen in the daily press from time to time. 151 Broadway from Chambers Street North to Forty-Second From a tourist's point of view there is practically nothing of interest in this section beyond the usual run of building devoted to wholesale business. Aside from its being our most notable street there is little else to sav about it. Not till you come to S4th Street, which marks the beginning of^he Great White Way, is there anything except Grace Church worthy of special men- tion. It is simply a long and busy street, just like doz- ens of other similar thoroughfares. There are rows and rows of monotonous buildings, with many a derelict in between. There is nothing to re- lieve the dull drab of existence, as the best sellers say, except the sight of an occasional Christian firm name on a siffn. This startling phenomena is readily recognized by the silent gaping throng that gathers in front of it, rooted to the spot, as it were, by the fascination of the novelty. There is a Broadwav Association that looks after the welfare of this street and does what it can to wake up some of the mediaeval landlords and bring this noted thoroughfare into the position it rightly holds as the pre- mier street of the Western World. Its present collec- tion of worn-out dwelling houses, run-down "iron fronts and motley array of taxpayers is far from creditable. West of Broadwav opposite the City Hall, to the River, and North to 14th Street, is now wholly given over to business and shipping. The side streets are the headquarters of various important industries and about a dozen blocks are given over to the Dry Goods District. At Hudson Street and to the river, Groceries, Canned Goods, Produce, Poultrv and other kindred lines con- gregate. Large loft buildings for manufacturing pur- poses of a heavy nature are frequent, and as you ap- 153 proach nearer to the Village, signs of persons living here are discernible. Most of them have been driven out, but some remain, and lately they have been joined by others. There is little, hovrever, of interest except perhaps the site of old St. John's Church, which the cutting through of Seventh Avenue, recently, has obliterated, till you strike Greenwich Village and the beginning of Fifth Avenue, at Washington Square. We have now covered the principal points in the down- town section. To get our exact bearing see map. We have drawn a straight line at Chambers Street from East to West, clear across the island. All the territory South of this line is what we have just been over. We shall now go East from the City Hall to the great East Side, Chinatown and the Bowery. 154 SOUTH Map Showing Down Town Section of New York from . Chambers Street, (Northern line); to Battery Park, (Southern). NOTE. Broadway divides the city into two sections: Stand- ing anywhere on Broadway and looking North all the side streets on the right are referred to as the East side; on the left all the streets are on the West side. Bear this in mind and it will help you to locate yourself very easily. Looking North on Broadway is uptown; looking South is downtown. The description begins at Battery Park and the Custom House, takes in the River front both East and West, goes up Broadway to Wall Street, through Wall and the whole financial district; then back to Broadway and up to City Hall, ending at Chambers Street. 155 THE GREAT EAST SIDE THE GHETTO, THE BOWERY, CHINATOWN, THE ITALIAN QUARTERS, THE BLACK BELT, ETC., ETC. npHE "Great East Side" that you read so much about -*■ in the papers, begins just a little East of the Municipal Building and extends from about Chatham Square and the Bowery, north to 14th Street and east to the river in the downtown section. This is where the "seething masses" live. To those ethnologically inclined, a stroll through these congested neighborhoods is no doubt interesting, but for the average sightseer there is nothing beyond endless crowds, more crowds, and still more crowds. For the greater part they are Italians intermixed with Russian Jews, Chinese, Greeks, Swedes, Turks, Hunks, Bulgars, Austrians, Serbs, Armenians, Slavs and Irish. These make up the "East Side" of the novelist, and includes the much talked of Ghetto. Open air pushcarts and kin- dred sights are much in evidence. It is, of course, inter- esting to see bits of ancient Europe so completely trans- planted into a modern, up-to-the-minute city as New York, and the quaint customs and the still quainter gar- ments affected by the more orthodox of these aliens has a certain amount of interest. 157 In this part of the city largely lives the species known as Garment Workers. It is only natural, therefore, that cloaks, suits, dresses and hats originally designed for more aristocratic quarters should here appear in cheap imitations. Division Street does quite a business in cloaks and suits and — (tell it not in Gath) — the cus- tomers do not all reside in the East Side. Millinery Row is on Clinton Street, and extends from Houston to Grand Street. The millinery shops here are as thick as berries on a bush. There are as many as sixteen stores on a single block, and so close to each other that it seems like a continuous show window. It also appears as if all the ladies' headgear had been called in convention. All the shops are styled either "French" or "Artistic." The show windows are fitted out to imitate the Fifth Avenue shops — parquet flooring, hats cocked at a coquet- tish angle on carved stands, ivory-tinted backgrounds, a blinding radiance of electric lights. They look very im- pressive to the shop girl. The priestesses who preside at these temples of style are saleswomen of a very shrewd and "talky" type. They flatter the looks of the customer. They have little ex- clamations of admiration and gestures of wonderment to deceive the unwary buyer. Their sales talk is a con- stant repetition of "French imported, "chic," "charm- ing," "it fits you beautiful," "awful nice" and other words to beguile the uncertain in their choice. In the matter of fixing a price, these saleswomen, under the subtle tuition of the proprietress, become adepts at "gouging." They will ask you two and three times the normal value of the hat in the hopes of net- ting a "sucker," and sometimes succeed. But those who are accustomed to the wolfish greed of these milliners drive a hard bargain, cutting the price asked in half or one-third. The saleswoman, will then commence a song 159 The Great East Side The push carts under the Manhattan Bridge. The great outdoor market of the Ghetto.— A'. Y. Tribune. of honeyed pleadings and try to wheedle a dollar or more from the obdurate%urchaser. The wise, little buyer, hoTever, presents a stony stubbornness to all her per- suTstons and just as she makes up her mmd to leave, the saUswoman eapitulates, after a last-minute-make-be- lieve conference with the owner. . , , , The remainder of "Millinery Row" is mainly taken up with stores catering to feminine needs in other depart- ments-corsetieres, dressmakers, booterles, glove stores, toUette supplies, ■Vedding-dresses-to-h.re establ.sh- ments-in short, an elongated Vanity Fair. Every etening the East Side girl promenades wim the throngs up and down Millinery Row, indulging m an orgy of window shopping, just like her sister on Fifth Avenue. The Colonel's lady and Judith O' Grady Are sisters under the skm. The open air markets are by long odds the most pie- turesQue feature of the street scenes. They are seat- tercTeve ywhe— the spaces under the Williamsburg Bridge befng particularly active. Certain sections are also known for "bargains. The mecca of the East Side bargain hunter is a strip of Orchard Street between Rivington ='"f 0/^"-^?; Its curbs are forever lined with pushcarts laden with a thousand and one variegated wares, piled high '" colo ful profusion and vividly reminiscent of a" Oriental bazaar in an "Arabian Nights" episode. Jostling and bolster ous crowds are feverishly ranging up «". ."^ «^ ^- li ^^ si ^ ^ 4> rH 4> ?r* rt ■*-» e <« o ?;> rt ,; 2.«iCq « 2 "" SJ ^ .ij _ :s ,„ ^ ra o w £&Sc"S^ "♦-en o o *j cr-S >H 60 ■ _ ^ i; o HI UJ - TO -^ r-i .2 c o CJ t:' o <" F in o From 14th Street to 59th OLD 23rd street home of clement MOORE, AUTHOR OF "tHE NIGHT BEFORE CHRISTMAS." JAMES FISKE, ED STOKES, LOUISE MANSFIELD, LiLY LANGTRY, ALL RESIDENTS OF THIS STREET. ST. PETER's CHURCH, THE PAULIST FATHERS, SLOANE MATERNITY, VANDEREILT CLINICS. CENTRAL PARK. Leaving Greenwich Village the next interesting sec- tion of New York extends from 19th to 24th and from Eighth Avenue to the river. It was formerly a region of highly respectable homes and is locally known as "Chelsea Village," so named by Captain Clarke, after the famous old soldiers' home near London. Clarke was a veteran of the early Colonial wars and settled here about 1750, on the land that is now between Ninth Avenue, 22nd and 23rd Streets and the river. There are still quite a number of residences in this neigh- borhood, but to a very great extent business has prac- tically wiped out the old social atmosphere. The grounds of the General Theological Seminary, covering the block between Ninth and Tenth Avenues, 20th and 21st Streets,, still connects it with scholastic days of the past. Clement C. Moore, whose home was on the corner of Ninth Ave- nue and 23rd Street, has brought fame to this village by his little poem familiar to children the world over — "The Night Before Christmas." Mr. Moore was famous as a theologian and a scholar of great attainments, but his great achievements in the realm of higher thought have been practically forgotten in the fame which came to him as the author of these simple lines. They were first published anonymously in an obscure country paper at Troy, N. Y., in 1822. St. Peter's Church, in this neighborhood, celebrated its 80th Anniversary not long ago and has some interesting historical associations. It stands on land donated by Mr. Moore, as does also the Theological Seminary. 187 On the block between Ninth and Tenth Avenues on 23rd Street, the visitor is still pointed out the house built for Josie Mansfield, a notorious woman, by "Jim" P'iske, one time President of the Erie, whose partner Stokes killed him in the Broadway Hotel in a quarrel over her favor. His residence was on the same street. Lily Langtry also sojourned here during her first visit to New York. Her home is now occupied by the Pasteur Institute. Edwin Forrest lived at 436. On Eighth Avenue, between 23rd and 26th Streets, oc- curred the famous Orange riots in 1873, in which over 200 lives were lost. It was the last clash between the Protestant and Catholic factions in the Irish population of New York. In older days this region was much given over to tar- get companies and parades of exempt firemen. The custom of parading on Thanksgiving Day in grotesque costumes was also more prevalent in Chelsea Village than in most other parts of town. Generally speaking, how- ever, there is little of interest for the visitor from out- of-town, although the old New Yorkers still find interest in London Terrace, Scotch Row, Inspector William's Residence, Pike's Old Opera House and recollections of the Erie Railroad. A purely local celebrity was the Rev. Dr. Campbell, whose successors now conduct an institution peculiar to New York, known as the Funeral Church. Strange as it may seem, very little attention is paid by the modern apartment house builder to the fact that we must all pass away, whether we live in flats or not. Consequently, from lack of accommoda- tions, the custom of resorting to an institution like this Funeral Church has become quite general. The latter is nicely equipped with all accessories for a decorous and well managed funeral, and it is a decided conven- ience to life in a great city — or, more strictly speaking, death. 188 The further up we go on the West Side the more- families we encounter. Business has not yet driven the home builder wholly out of this region, yet it must be confessed that the number of single house dwellers grows fewer each year. Some are still left, but apartment houses are the rule. At 59th Street is the Church of St. Paul, the Apostle^ seat of the Paulist Fathers. It is a very important church and from the number of art works it contains is well worth a visit. Saint-Gaudens, Stanford White and John La Farge, were intimately connected with its artis- tic development. Some of White's best work is seen here. MacMonnies, Martigny, Harris, Pratt, Kelly, Wentwood and others are well represented. In many respects artis- tically, it is the most noted church in the city. Other well known institutions close by are the Roose- velt Hospital, Sloane Maternity, College of Physicians and Surgeons, the Vanderbilt Clinic. With the exception of the Roosevelt, this splendid group of buildings is the joint gift of W. H. Vanderbilt and his children. Fifty-Ninth Street seems a natural dividing line be- tween upper and lower New York. Central Park begins here. It extends from Fifth Avenue on the East to Eighth Avenue on the West. Sixth and Seventh Ave- nues, therefore, come to a temporary halt. At the north end of the park they resume their northward march, the former, however, changing its name to Lenox Avenue. Other avenues also drop their numerical names at 59th Street. Eighth Avenue becomes Central Park West but resumes the old title north of the park. Ninth Avenue becomes Columbus; Tenth Avenue, Amsterdam; Eleventh, West End Avenue. The character of these streets also change for the better and the new names are in harmony with improved conditions. Between 42nd and 59th Streets the population is of a migratory professional character. The theatre, musical! 189 I Maine Monument. Columbus Circle, entrance to Central Park © Edison Co. photo companies^, the movies and vaudeville all combine to at- tract a large contingent^ who reside here for a shorter or longer period, as circumstances demand. The busi- ness of providing entertainment for the public in New York is on a very large scale and from it is drawn the major patronage for the rooming and boarding houses which lie west of Broadway, in what is called the the- atrical district. In this short run from 23rd to 59th Street we have touched only upon the far streets of the West Side. It rightly includes part of the theatrical section, but that is treated separately in another chapter. A Half Forgotten Corner; Gramercy Park, the Players Club and the House where Roosevelt WAS Born. Gramercy Park is a famous little nook nestling be- { tween approaching high buildings in a little square be- tween 20th and 21st Streets just off Fourth Avenue. I The Park was a gift from Samuel B. Ruggles to the i owners of the adjoining property and is a private pos- session not open to the public. Many famous men, in- j eluding Cyrus W. Field, Samuel J. Tilden, Edwin I Booth, etc., have lived in Gramercy Park, which has been I recently subject of sympathetic and delightful little I essay by Mr. John B. Pine, a Trustee of Columbia ! University and a resident of the Park. I On 19th Street an interesting experiment has been successfully carried out whereby several very ordinary I houses have been most artistically remodeled and now 1 present a most attractive and artistic appearance. The 1 block is known as "Pomander Walk." I At 28 East 20th Street, near Broadway, is the house ! in which was born that great American, Theodore Roose- velt, soldier, statesman and ex-president of the United States. At 22nd Street, opposite Gramercy Park, is the of- 191 fices of the Russell Sage Foundation. Admission free between 9.45 to 10 P. M. to the Library of over 12,000 volumes on its specialty, the question of social and living conditions. The Players' Club is at 16 Gramercy Park. The Club House was a gift from Edwin Booth, who made his home in the upper front room. It is still preserved ex- actly as he left it. The club possesses Booth's private library, his prompt books and Shakespearean costumes. During Booth's lifetime it was the custom of all the members in the lounging room to rise as Mr. Booth started to go upstairs and the courtly "good-night, Mr. Booth," makes a pleasant memory. The Club erected a magnificent statue last year within the confines of the jealously guarded Park, of Booth in his favorite char- acter, Hamlet. It is one of the most beautiful works of art in the city. Mr. Quinn is the sculptor. The National Arts Club has its building a few doors west of the Players. It entertains nearly all the liter- ary and artistic lions who visit New York in the season. Leaving Gramercy Park and going West a few short blocks, we now approach what New Yorkers are pleased to think is the greatest street in the world — Fifth Ave- nue. At all events, it is easily the most fascinating, the most beautiful and by all standards the most interesting in the city. It has a distinguished lineage and was for years the most exclusive residential section in town. In these by-gone days, to live "on the Avenue" was of itself an unimpeachable patent of social nobility and even in its transition from fashion to business it has maintained and preserved its old time aristocratic atmosphere. It begins at the Arch in Greenwich Village. Before we enter this historic roadway, let us pause for a moment and recall the stirring scenes here enacted during the dark days of the Great War. The first rumblings of the approaching storm were heard in the 193 measured tread of 100,000 men who marclied in the Preparedness Parade. Solemn and impressive was its meaning — wake up^ America ! In a few weeks the storm broke in all its fury and for the next two years Fifth Avenue is no longer an exclusive New York possession, but becomes a Highway of the World. I Fifth Avenue, looking north from Thirty-fourth Street; the spire of the Brick Presbyterian Church shows in the distance Brown Bros. 1 iM Fifth Aveniie, north from Forty-second Street to the Plaza at Central Park. The distant spires on the right are St. Patrick's Cathedral. Temple Emanu-El on the corner of Forty-third Street A.M Flag Raising Day at the Altar of Liberty on the Avenue at Madison Square. Cullen Bryant, whose home was at 34 West 16th Street. He was at that time one of the owners of the Evening Post, originally established by Alexander Hamilton. There is a statue of him by Herbert Adams on the east side. -. During the Civil War, Union troops were encamped here and the disgraceful Draft Riots began with an attack on the colored Orphan Asylum nearby, at iSrd Street and Fifth Avenue. But the most interesting object in the park is the imposing bust of Washington Irving, heroic size, for many years New York's First Citizen. Irving, who first gained European recognition for American letters, was born in William Street. He was an ardent New Yorker and his whimsical History of New York, which set two continents laughing, sells today as freely as the day it was published. It is now a 257 Sixth Avenue, showing one of the mascots of the Hippodrome, the Elephant. This is cur largest shuvv hoiis Fort-y.-second Street, east from Sixth Avenue. Tlu of the Public Library and Bryant Park, .l^olian Hall in centre north wins classic. The present-day New Yorker places him along with Aristotle, Marcus Aurelius or Homer in point of antiquity, yet he was a trustee of the old Astor Library and largely instrumental in securing the gift to the city from Mr. Astor, and was president of the commission formed to create Central Park. When he went to England in the midst of the War of 1812 he was at once cordially welcomed by Sir Walter Scott and his friends, not merely as a fellow craftsman of distinction, but as an American genius above the petty decisions of Cabinets regarding peace or war. We see him once more in the falling shadows of a closing day. It is in the garden of a friend's house in sunny Spain — and beyond are the storied columns of the ancient Alhambra. Two little girls are on his knee, to whom he is telling strangely fascinating tales. Child- ish laughter breaks upon the quiet scene. In the retired little English village of Hants still lives one of these little girls. Today, as ex-empress of a half-forgotten empire, its people once more in the van of European civilization, does Eugenie Marie de Montijo recall the days of merry, carefree childhood and that cultured, gentle scholar from old New York? Probably not. A recent letter to the writer from Her Majesty's Lady-in- Waiting regretted that the war work of the Empress precluded any literary contributions at present. Other statues in the Park are of Dr. J. Marion Sims and a memorial fountain to Josephine Shaw Lowell, social worker and philanthropist. In the Republican Club on 40th Street, opposite the park, is a collection of rare prints and maps of old New York. The Engi- neers' Club is on the same street. It has a most imposing building. * * -x- * * "The Little Church Around the Corner" is a familiar name for the Church of the Transfiguration, on East 260 29th Street, near Fifth Avenue. The story goes that when in 1871 Joseph Jefferson endeavored to arrange for the funeral of George Holland, a brother actor, at a church on Madison Avenue, the pastor said that he could not hold burial services over the body of an actor. "But," he added, "there is a little church around the corner you can go to." "Then all honor to the little church around the corner," replied Jefferson. "We will go there." From that time the church and its rector, Rev. George H. Houghton (who died in 1897), were held in affectionate regard by the theatrical profession. Many actors have been buried from the church, ^mong them Lester Wallack, Dion Boucicault and Edwin Booth. There is a memorial window given by the Players (the actors' club), in loving memory of Booth. No mention of the Avenue would be complete with- out reference to that wonderful organization, the Y. M. C. A. During the great war work its offices were in the Ziegler Building, corner 43rd Street, but it had two other auxiliary buildings nearby on Madison Avenue. All their work was directed from this vicinity and the whole world knows the gigantic tasks they accomplished. The Headquarters of the Red Cross were also on the Avenue, at 38th Street. The Pageants of War For the last two j^ears Fifth Avenue has been a riot of motion and color. First came the Preparedness Parade, in which over a hundred thousand citizens joined. Then came the drafted men on their way to camp. Dressed in the clothes in which they came from work, surrounded by their sweethearts and sisters, the scene was deeply touching. In a few months these same citi- zen-soldiers again came on the Avenue. This time marching on to war. Trim, alert, guns at shoulder arms, colors flying, bands playing, the boys marched 261 down the Avenue to the enthusiastic applause of the crowd and the shouts of their friends. No one who saw this sight and contrasted these trim, smart looking soldier boys with the nondescript mob of a few months previous will ever forget the effect this transformation produced. It seemed unbelievable. The steady tramp, tramp of the seasoned veteran was in the regular cadence of that marching host, and we rc^^lized as never before that we had an army and an army of fighters. For weeks almost without cessation armies passed down the Avenue. Sometimes it w^as varied by a foreign regi- ment, i/ke the Canadian Highlanders. Then it was a regiment of Poilus direct from France, or Belgians, x\nzacs and Italians. Again it would be a handful of Czecho-Slavs enroute from Russia. Then it would be a host of our own boys, this time from California or Mon- tana or the South. There seemed no end to them. Tramp, tramp, tramp; halt; forwvard, march! And the procession started again. When all the soldiers had gone — there always seemed to be just one more detachment — then came the others. The grand army of Red Cross Nurses; the countless number of war workers of every description; Y. M. C. A. men; Y. W. C. A. women; K. of C. men; Yeoman- ettes; Salvation Army Lassies; Hospital Units; Ambu- lance Drivers; Machine Gunners; Flying Squadrons; Aeroplanes; Army Transport Motors; Motorcycles; Doctors, Surgeons, Stretcher Bearers, First Aid Sta- tions, and every other conceivable contrivance necessary to win the war. Few who witnessed these stirring scenes in the early months of 1918 will live to forget them, and now that it is happily over, none care to do so. It was all very wonderful and very impressive. Yet never again, let us hope, will the Avenue be called upon to witness the like. With all its enthusiasm, all its cheers, the significance of the scene could not be concealed and tears lay close to the smiles and the din of cheering. 262 Armistice Day Througliout this two years of pomp and pageantry the Avenue was keenly conscious of the deep solemnity which underlaid every demonstration. No spirit of lev- ity was ever present. The stern reality of war in all its hideousness brooded over all. Small wonder was it, therefore, that on the afternoon of November 11th a huge wave of uncontrollable emotion swept over the city at a report that the war was over ! Although the news was promptly contradicted, the long pent up feelings of the populace could no longer be held in check. No intimation that such an early ending of the war had been given. The newspapers were still talking of "next spring"; troops were still hurrying aboard trans- ports and everywhere the energies of the people were bent on "winning the war," when a great din of whistles, cheers and noises of every description suddenly rent the air, sending thousands to the windows, to the telephone and to the street to learn the cause of the commotion and to receive in answer the magic word "Peace !" The feelings of the moment beggar description. From office, store and factory poured multitudes. Joining in im- promptu processions, they made for the Avenue. Ve- hicles of all sorts were immediately banished from the thoroughfare, that the seething crowds might have room. There seemed no ordered plan or purpose. People just joined in; they all walked one way. The Avenue was jammed from wall to wall and the whole mass moved slowly in one direction. Flags waved, horns tooted, all sorts of things that would make a noise were hastily improvised. For the first time in nearly four years the air of gloom had disappeared. Oh, the joy, the relief! When the clerks, salesmen, workers and bosses had suddenly walked out and disappeared for the day — offices, factories and stores automatically closed. Some one threw a spool of ticker paper out of a window, hold- 263 ing the end in his hand. The long streamer thus cre- ated caught the popular fancy and in a twinkling all over the city windows were raised and paper thrown out. Some ingenious person let loose a handful of small cut up pieces and this improvement was also imitated. In a moment the Avenue was in a snow storm of paper. When the frenzy had passed it was found that every available book in sight had been robbed of its pages, torn into shreds and sent hurtling into space. The whole thing was so spontaneous that every emo- tion was genuine. Strangers embraced each other. Men and women never before guilty of the slightest social infraction, threw custom to the winds. Locked in arms, long rows of staid and sober citizens joined the march- ing throngs^ sang, two stepped, tangoed and otherwise behaved in a thoroughly indecorous manner. The few wagons that indiscreetly strayed into the Avenue never got out; they were immediately commandeered by a happy joyous throng, who climbed on every available perch and there surveyed the passing show. Looking from a high window on the Avenue the sight was inde- scribable. Thousands were packed as far as the eye could reach. The huge mass swayed this way and that. There was no disorder, no display of bad temper. The police were powerless to cope with the crowd. They swept the traffic men and the iron traffic posts clear off the street. No living thing could withstand this onslaught. All one did was to go along with the crowd. It was an unfor- gettable scene; dramatic in its intensity, striking in its spontaneity. In a few hours the city looked as if a cyclone had struck it, but the disorder only added gaiety to the crowds. Such was Armistice Day on the Avenue. It will never be forgotten. Return of General Pershing and the First Division, Formal End of War Parades. With the magnificent tribute paid to the returning Commander and his victorious troops of the First Divis- 264 ion, the long series of War pageants on Fifth Avenue may be said to have come to a final close. Of all the pictures in all the pageants in the avenue of a thousand parades none will stay fresher on memory's film than that of Pershing on his five mile ride. A soldier of soldiers astride a bay horse, pelted with cheers and with roses, his men following on. A man for the people to spend their enthusiasm upon, for whom they have been waiting. Gen. Pershing, astride a beautiful bay, the eye filling, satisfying picture of the man on horseback — not a man on horseback of sinister foreboding, but a man on horseback of golden performance, he was. A half block up from the stand he had spied his boy and his sisters in the box reserved for their use. He had saluted them with a smile. But now, at just twenty minutes after ten, he was about to salute that which was after all the inspiration of his whole career. Thirty thousand men with all their gear, from airplane to trench mortar, from staff limousine to elephantine truck, from fat breeched howitzer to vicious light mitrail- leuse, from the General's charger to the gargantuan cater- pillars which drew the guns — for three hours and a half they moved without ceasing past the reviewing stand at Eighty-second Street. They left 110th Street on the stroke of 10 in the morning an4 it was 3:20 in the after- noon when the last of them had passed through the Washington Arch. MADISON AVENUE, MURRAY HILL. GRAND CENTRAL STATION AND PARK AVENUE. THE MORGAN LIBRARY, DIANA ON THE TOWER. MADISON SQfUARE GARDEN AND THE HORSE SHOW. THE GREAT METROPOLITAN TOWER. Next in social importance as a residential street in the old days was Madison Avenue. Starting at 23rd Street, this avenue for many years was the only rival to Fifth. Today nothing remains of its former polite 265 The Metropolitan Tower, INIadison Square. ^Madison Square Garden on the left grandeur. The residence of S. L. M. Barlow, a once noted lawyer, stood on the corner of the avenue and 23rd Street. This entire block is now occupied by the vast buildings of an insurance company, which extends back to Fourth Avenue, demolishing in its expansion the old Academy of. Design and the ultra-fashionable Lyceum Theatre, the scene of the early labors of the late Charles Frohman. The New York prototype of Christie's famous London auction room is on the south side. Some famous collections have been dispersed. here, the May Jane Morgan sale, with its famous peach blow vase, among them. The chief features of the huge Metropolitan Building are its wonderful interior stair- way, a reproduction of the similar entrance to the Grand Opera House in Paris, and its tower and clock. The clock dials are of reinforced concrete, faced with mosaic tile and are 26^/^ feet in diameter. The figures on the clock face are four feet high. The minute hand is seventeen feet long and weighs one thousand pounds. The hour hand is 131,2 feet long, weighs 750 pounds. The bells vary in weight from 7 to 15,000 pounds. The tongue weighs 200 pounds, and strikes every hour, and a set of Handel chimes proclaims the quarter hours. After dark a white flash from the summit indicates the hour; the quarter hours in one, two, three, and four red flashes. The clock is visible for twenty miles. Electric power is used and the whole is set 350 feet above the sidewalk. One has to view it from a neighboring high building to get a "close up" and thus realize its immensity. The most important thing from a visitor's point of view is the tower, which is about 700 feet high. Admis- sion to the Observation Gallery is 50 cents. Select a day when the wind blows northwest. Opposite the Metropolitan is Dr. Parkhurst's Church, the last work of the late Stanford White. Critics go in raptures over this structure and point out its many artis- tic qualities. The building is very low and has a dome and minarets like a Moorish temple. Engaged Ionic columns form the entrance. All this may be art, but for a sacred edifice it is the most frivolous looking struc- 267 ture ever conceived by the mind of man. For a "movie" house it vrould be fine. The site has recently been pur- chased by the Metropoltian, and this burlesque on relig- ion will be removed, for which much thanks. On the next block is the highly ornate Appellate Court House, a really dignified and impressive building. The several statues which adorn this building make an inter- esting approach and lend a judicial atmosphere to the structure. The interior mural decorations are much above the average and are justly famous. All the great artists are represented by some of the most important work they have ever executed. By all means visit the Appellate. It is a liberal education in mural painting. Go in the morning when the court is not in session. On the corner of 26th Street is the home of the Man- hattan Club, the leading Democratic club in the city, and the rival of the Union League. The famous Madison Square Garden comes next, occupying an entire block. It is the home of the horse show. This event marks the formal opening of the social season in New York. The building shows the influence of the Alhambra in Spain. The statue of Diana on the tower is famous. Designed by Stanford White, who met his death here in its roof garden at the hands of Harry K. Thaw in 1906. The beautiful offices of the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals is directly opposite. It was found- ed by Henry Bergh. The Society had as its original founders such men as Peter Cooper, James Lenox, Ham- ilton Fish, John Jacob Astor, Jr., August Belmont, John, Wesley and Fletcher Harper. It retains to this day a similar impressive membership. On East 27th Street, just a few steps off the avenue, is the lineal descendant of the old French Huguenot Church that originally stood in Petticoat Lane (see tab- let on Produce Exchange) — the Church du Saint Esprit. The Huguenots from New Rochelle walked every Sun- 268 day to the old church and returned the same daJ^ All the old Huguenot families in the city have been connected with this church in some way or other since its establish- ment in 1688. The avenue is fast filling up with loft and business buildings beyond this point. Few residences now remain. Most of them are vacated by the owners and are await- ing business tenants. The most conspicuous exception is the J. P. Morgan house, occupying the block between 36th and S7th Streets. Mr. Morgan lives in the 37th Street corner. The library is, of course, one of the most famous in the world. Its treasures include some of the rarest items known to collectors. The manuscripts are probably its most unique possessions; they include nine of Scott's novels; Pope's "Essay on Man/' Milton's "Paradise Lost," Burns' "Cotters' Saturday Night/' Dickens' "Christmas Carol/' etc. It is, however, only an aggravation to dwell upon these, as the library is not open to the public and the librarian, Miss Belle De Costa Greene, is not over liberal in granting permission for strangers to pay it a visit. Still, she uses intelligent discrimination in making exceptions, and a properly worded request has been known to produce results. The name Murray Hill comes from Robert Murray, whose farm it was. The American troops narrowly escaped capture at this point, following their defeat at the Battle of Long Island. Aaron Burr was leading them to safety in Har- lem when the British sought to cut off their retreat. Mrs. Murray entertained some passing British Generals and made them so comfortable that the Continental troops were well north of the hill 'ere the officers de- cided to bestir themselves. A skirmish occurred at about Fifth Avenue from 3 8th to 42nd Streets, but by the time the English threw their line across the island the last American soldier had already passed to safety. 269 At the 37tli Street corner, northwest, is the residence of Mrs. Anson Phelps Stokes. The huge granite struc- ture on the opposite corner is the residence of the late Joseph De Lamar, who made millions in mining. The town house of Percy Pyne, 2nd, whose grand- father founded the great National City Bank, is on the north corner of 40th Street, and opposite the resi- dence of William Rockefeller, brother of John D. The rest of the avenue to 42nd Street is given up to busi- ness. At 42nd Street we come into a new region of office buildings, hotels and the Grand Central Terminal. Forty-Second Street and Pershing Square This thoroughfare has immensely expanded during the past few years. It is the main artery of the Grand Central Terminal Zone and its marvellous accessibility has resulted in the building up of a community almost of its own. In the modest language of John McE. Bow- man, it is the "Heart of the World." General Wingate's magnificent Victory Hall is planned to occupy the Park Avenue corner of Pershing Square. The new viaduct is also completed. It is an important section of New York. Four railroad trunk lines have stations on the street. Over 100,000 passengers use the Grand Central Term- inal Station each day. 70,930,934 subway and elevated tickets were sold at 42nd Street stations during the year ending June 30^ 1919. More than 7,000 subway and elevated trains stop here. More than 10,000,000 visitors dine annually in hotels^ restaurants and cafes. It has eleven theatres, with 16,233 seats and an aver- age weekly attendance of 129,864. Nine New York Stock Exchange firms maintain thor- 270 -=&iSa,isr^s;™o^°^°"--= "^^^ M!a\t n^t^"^''^-'; P^^«hi"g Square, Park Avenue and Forty-sec, Also the network of transportation lines, overhead and undergr^un Hill, Belmont, Manhattan, Biltmore. Commodore, .^^tn.ll K,„-u;, re, Commodore. Small buildii Forty-second Street is the end "t Showing group of hotels adjoining the Grand Central Terminal. .ting at this ?oint. The hotels are from left to right. Murray centre is the railroad station. The bridge leading to it across fs new Park Avenue Viaduct oughly equipped branch offices with private wire service. Seven national banks and trust companies and two savings banks. One department store with 2,600 employees. More electricity is used for lighting purposes than in any average city throughout the world. Nearly every kind of business is located on the street. All leading parades cross it. Four churches with over 6,000 members. The New York Public Library, with a circulation of 2,598,109 volumes, is located on the Fifth Avenue corner. One public school with 1,700 pupils and 38 teachers. Five telegraph offices. Two telephone exchanges, handling more calls each day than any city of 250,000 population. Two hundred and fifty new buildings, with an aggre^ gate investment of over $200,000,000, have been erected in this section during the past ten years. Altogether this is one of the liveliest streets in town. The private residences that lined both sides of Mad- ison Avenue north of 42nd Street for the next mile or two are all gone. The Manhattan Hotel occupies the entire block between 42nd and 43rd Streets, and diag- onally across stands the magnificent Biltmore. Beyond that is a great business building and the new Yale Club. St. Bartholomew's Church, with its famous bronze doors, in memory of Cornelius Vanderbilt, is now at 50th Street and Park Avenue. A twenty-story Christian Sci- ence Building takes its place. Two large retail stores among the finest in the city come next, one a men's shop and the other a most wonderful sporting goods house. One of the chain of Ritz Hotels comes next. The criminal activities of Von Bernstorff and Dernburg during our pre-war experience were conducted from this place. 274 Following the Ritz come wonderful apartment houses. They are the last word in luxury. Some are so arranged that in event of the family's absence and the master being detained in town, household routine will go on just the same. Servants enter, do the necessary work, supply fresh flowers and then depart. At night, any kind of a dinner ordered by the master, simple or elab- orate, will be ready at the hour designated by him. Rents of these apartments are from $30,000 to $40,000 per annum. The most expensive ones are fully rented and have a waiting list. We will now draw a line on the map across 42nd Street. That is another natural dividing line. The theatre district, which begins at Broadway and 42nd Street and goes north, will be treated next. Aside from the theatres, we have now sketched practically every- thing of interest below Central Park. 276 i s ^- s s ^ ^ C »> M c h (L) W tf) W J"* t ^-d\\]i. PiMitb III Gramercy Park, erected by '"The I'laAtis" — ihc chil) founded by Booth THE GREAT WHITE WAY THF THEATRES. UNUSUAL NOVELTIES IN PLAY HOUSES. LUX" , Jk^OUS MOVING PICTURE PALACES. THE GIGANTIC HIPPO- ' DROME REVIVAL OF THE "INTIMATE" ROOF GARDENS. C^B^RETS. OUT DOOR PAGEANTS. THE LEWISOHN 1 STADIUMS. MUSIC HALLS. GRAND OPERA COM- ' MUNITY SINGING. LECTURES. INTEL- LECTUAL RECREATION. 4<-pviRECT From Broadwcay, Original New York L^ Cast " So runs the legend on the bills that an- nounce the coming of another New York success to the provinces. And vet many a good play has failed m the Metropolis only to find unbounded success on the road. Oh, the joy of being the rejected stone that becomes the chief stone of the corner ! Well, here you are right in New York, and on Broad- way, too. Some two thousand places of entertainment are open for you. Which shall you choose— comedy, tragedy, light opera, grand opera, vaudeville, circus con- cerf, pantomime, recitals of all kinds, or movies? About seventy-five or eighty of these houses are legitimate, serious theatres, featuring the best productions and em- ploying the highest class talent. The balance are mostly photoplays, ranging from $2 admission down .to five cents. Aside from the theatre, with which every one is famil- iar New York rejoices in several unconventional enter- prises materially different from the usual run. The 279 Hippodrome, for instance, is unlike any other playhouse in America, and everything in it is planned on a scale so enormous as to belittle all others by comparison. It is mainly given up to a performance which pleases the eye more than anything else. It has a perfectly mar- vellous and enormous water tank, which extends under the entire huge stage. It's patent-secret construction enables the players to submerge and disappear com- pletely. No one has yet been able to fathom the mys- tery. It seems certain that they must positively perish. You have hardly recovered from the shock of the trag- edy (?) 'ere the whole host blithely reappear, climb out of the water and burst gaily into song! This is one of the most baffling illusions ever produced in the mimic world. The stage is larger itself than the whole of an ordinary theatre, and the auditorium in proportion, consequently speaking parts are practically out of the question except for the actor with a voice like a mega- phone. The plays are ^ostly spectacular with plenty of chorus singing and several old-time circus acts in which an elephant usually appears. The late Fred Thompson, who conceived the Hippodrome, thought the elephant an emblem of good luck and adopted this for his chief scheme of decoration. We all go there once a year, at least, and oftener when we can pick up some small nephews or nieces to furnish an excuse for going again. The next unique playhouse is undoubtedly the one where moving pictures are given with a wonderful or- chestra of about fifty players, and in addition a good soloist or quartette. The stage is gorgeously grand, pro- ducing a stunning effect. It has special lighting arrange- ments, and the whole schenre is decidedly pleasing and refined. It has certainly done much to elevate the stand- ard of the movies, and is a great success. Other houses have since followed suit, and we now have the Rivoli, 280 the Capitol and the Rialto, in addition to the Strand, and those visitors who have not been able to patronize anything but the local livery stable turned into an open- air theatre will be very much impressed by the elaborate- ness of the movie in New York. At the same time it must be admitted that many small- , er communities saw the possibilities of high class moving pictures before New York did and our first attempt came as the result of representations from out-of-town men. The success which has attended the effort to give the "movie" in a building specially built for them may ultimately suggest to producers that the employment of brains in the construction of the plays themselves might "also prove equally profitable. There are also a number of "intimate" theatres, as they are called— small places seating from one hundred and fifty to three hundred persons. Here you avoid the vulgar crowd and usually see one of those wholly unin- teresting but excessively intellectual productions that re- quire a small auditorium in order that the audience may be seen with the naked eye. This season, however, the show business has been so profitable that several gen- uinely good plays have found their way into these dra- matic cold storage vaults, and have played to capacity. This development has also shown that the small theatre has its attractions, and they have grown in popularity quite amazingly. They also rejoice in a new school of nomenclature, like "The Bandbox," "The Little The- atre," "The Punch and Judy," etc., which is a dis- tinct improvement over naming it after the plumber who built the structure or the gasfitter who owned the lot. That these miniature houses present intelligently se- lected plays that are actuated by a serious purpose is shown by the great success of some of the offerings. "The Better 'Ole" started in the Greenwich Village The- atre, moved up to Broadway and has achieved a nation- 281 wide success. The Provincetcnvii Players^ largely re- cruited from a bunch of amateurs, who played for their own amusement in that delightful Cape Cod hamlet of this name, gave some very creditable performances and showed that there was still a chance for originality in New York. The most ambitious attempt to oifer plays witliout fear of financial results was undoubtedly tried in the heavily endowed Century Theatre. The result proved disastrous. A large fortune was sunk and the results were disheartening. Not alone were the plays worth- lesSj but the attempt proved once more that a genius cannot be developed by any hot-house process. The cry that new writers are not w^anted, that the old clique keeps out everybody else is still the plaint of unsuccess- ful playwrights. The yearly success of unknown writ- ers nevertheless keeps on and each season produces its Eugene Walter and Bruce Bairnsfather or "John Fer- guson." For a slight advance (fifty cents) tickets for all the popular successes are usually obtainable at any of the hotel offices. It is hardly worth while trying to save this half dollar if you want to see the show the night you apply. While this seems something of an imposi- tion, it is really a convenience to persons whose time does not permit of postponement. In London there is a similar charge for "booking," as they call it over there. In both cases the customer is saved the trouble of going to the theatre personally. So don't let this charge spoil your temper and your enjoyment of the evening. There are many other petty exactions in the city infinitely more exasperating than this. The dail}^ papers contain announcements of all the current plays, together with location of the theatre. If time permits it is well to arrange your theatre engage- ments a week or two in advance when you first arrive. 282 There is always more or less trouble to get a good seat at a popular success even with this precaution. The theatre district is quite easily reached from almost anv part of the city. Taxis being smaller, are much better for this purpose than a huge private car and easily obtainable. The entire list of attractions playing in the city is usually displayed in a bulletin board on the newspaper stand of the hotel. The summer season is not the best time to judge New- York theatrically. Most of the best houses are closed, but the girl and music show is generally in evidence all through the vear. The roof garden is recommended for a" sultry night, but it is a sad strain on credulity to describe* any of these performances as entertaining. There is a tendency to improve them each year, how- ever, and it may be that in time they will not be as they chiefly are today— a very poor excuse for taking two dollars from any one's pocket. Along with the hat check extortion, and other petty graft for which the town is celebrated, the average roof garden show has them all beaten to a standstill. In the back of this book is a list of the prominent theatres and their locations. For the most part they are within five minutes of the corner of Broadway and 42nd Street, a pokit easily reached from any part of tow^n by subway, elevated or surface car or taxi. It is the center of the hotel district and the stranger will have little or no diflicultv in finding any particular place desired. A taxi may be had for a trifling sum and their use is a great comfort and convenience. 283 The Aviary, Central Park OUR BEAUTIFUL PUBLIC PARKS central, van cortlandt, bronx, the zoological gardens, the botanical gardens, pelham bay, interstate palisade park and bear mountain. Central Park T N a cit^ so small and so congested as is New York, it is something to brag about that we have given up the most desirable portion of it for the use of the gen- eral public. To deduct 843 acres out of a scant total of 22,000 and deiw ourselves the vast revenue it would produce if devoted to ordinary usage, argues volumes for our public spirit. It is a triumph of the landscape artist and the results achieved out of barren soil, covered wuth rocks, is some- thing scai'cely believable. Work was commenced in 1857 and completed a year later at a cost of four hundred and fifteen million dollars. That is to say, a beginning was made. The work never ends. There are now lakes and reservoirs covering 286 acres; 9 miles of carriage drives, 286 K 1 ^^ J*€ .: •• 'i . ^^^^^^s^ ^J^^MKl /9^^''

«"y-g°- ronnds etc These parks are easily reached by any ot TEast Side sub^va^s and by the West (with a shor transfer). A special Guide Book ,s published by the Zoological Garden management and sold for 25 cents. It is well worth buying, and gives a world of mforma- tion concerning the animals which we cannot give here^ The Monkey House, the Lion House, the Elephant 289 House, the Walrus Pool, the Deer Park, the Fox andj Wolf Dens, the Elk Mange, the Bird Houses, the Aviary j and all the wonderful birds and mammals are splendidly described. Bronx Park is reached directly by Bronx subway to 180th Street or the elevated to Fordham station. Admis- sion is free, except Mondays and Thursdays, when 25 cents for adults and 10 cent« for children is charged. Choose them and avoid the crowds. At the Botanical Garden a guide leaves the front door for the Museum Building on every afternoon at 3 P. M. to escort those who wish to accompany him. Each day the route is changed. This is the only way to properly see the Garden. Palisades Park, Bear Mountain Park and the Hudson River. Two new parKS not generally known to the outside public are the Palisade Inter-State Park, reached by ferry from foot of Dyckman Street, and Fort Tryon Park, at 193rd Street and Riverside Drive, a gift by John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Take West Side subway co Dyckman Street. The former park contains the wonderful pali- sades of the Hudson. It sl,?etches nearly twenty miles along the west bank of the river A vvonderful state road is now ir, process of constructicii and par"^ of it is now open. Striking views of the Hudson and of lower New York may be had frorr. many points on this road. Fort Trvon Park preserves the New York side of the Hudson opposite the Interstate and will be developed in harmony with it. Bear Mountain Park is about forty-five mile? from the city, in the heart of the Highlands of the Hudson. It is reached by several special boats, excursion $1.00, and by the Albany Day Line steamers. The scenery is impres- 290 sive; it is a wonderful possession for any city to have. West Point is only fifteen minutes further on and the two places can easily be visited in the one day. It was that eminent English jurist^ Lord Haldane, who marvelled that so beautiful a river so close to such a large city was not more popular with our people than he divined the Hudson to be^ judging from the few steamboats, yachts, etc., upon it. In this he was emi- nently right. The vast majority of New Yorkers know nothing about the majesty and beauty of this wonder- ful river that lies right at our doors. Coney Island, that land of hot dogs and merry-go-rounds, with its noisy crowd, draws a thousand New Yorkers to one that visits the Hudson. Travellers who have been the world over declare the Hudson has not only no rival, but has nothing even ap- proaching one. All along its crowded slopes nestle quaint little villages, some as old as New York itself. For so important a highway, commerce is strangely absent from its shores. In any European country such a natural and cheap method of communication would be black with sailing craft of all kinds, and huge derricks would be met with at frequent intervals. Nothing of the kind is to be seen on the Hudson. Aside from the few river boats that ply up and down daily, there is only to be seen an occasional brick schooner beating its way to the city or perhaps a long string of canal boats that have come from some point on the Erie Canal or Buffalo, and are slowly drifting to New York. Even the saucy tugboats that impart a w^onderful scene of activity and bustle all over the bay are seldom encountered farther up the river. Perhaps it is just as well. The river bank is almost wholly given up to magnificent private estates and sleepy little villages. Passing Inwood, which marks the end of Manhattan Island, we see just across the river the magnificent New 291 Interstate Palisade Park, which stretches in an unbroken line for nearly twenty miles along the most wonderful of all nature's creations — the Palisades of the Hudson. The States of New York and New Jersey united in the purchase of this magnificent playground for the people, and its acquisition accomplished a two-fold purpose — it added a park of rare natural beauty to the resources of the city, and preserved this most wonderful work of nature, the Palisades. The Palisade Inter State Park can be reached by Ferryboat from the foot of Dyckman Street. Take sub- way West Side and get off at Dyckman Street. It is worth seeing. At Tarrytown the river widens to almost four miles, and forms a body of water called Tappan Zee. It is also quite deep here, and when a sudden squall comes across the mountains from back of Nyack — a frequent occur- rence in summertime — it is apt to raise quite a good-sized cornmotion, the waves reaching quite a respectable height. After leaving the Tappan Zee we enter the southern gate of the Highlands and from now on the scenery is fascinating. In about an hour we have passed Peekskill Bay and are at Bear Mountain Park, in the heart of the Highlands. This park was made largely possible by the gift of over 10,000 acres of land by Mrs. E. H. Harri- man in memory of her great husband, E. H. Harriman, the famous railroad builder. Other land has since been acquired, roads built through, and a number of public improvements added, including row boats, swings for the children and many other attractions. There is no more beautiful spot in the world than Bear Mountain Park, and when New Yorkers fully realize its attractiveness they will go there by the hundred thousands. After leaving Bear Mountain Park the next important point which should be seen by all tourists is undoubtedly West Point, the famous military academy. The cadets 292 can be seen at drill and the grounds visited all in a very short time. This excursion should not be missed. The time consumed is about an hour and a half each way. The return fare is $1.00. It is a side trip well worth making. We are now in the very heart of the Highlands and the scenery is bewitching. Sometimes the boat almost touches the shore, so close runs the channel to the bank. Presently we pass Highland Falls, where the late Mr. Morgan lived, and right above it is the far-famed United States Military Academy of West Point. Directly in front of the Academy is Constitution Island, a present to the government by Mrs. Russell Sage. Beyond the island the river widens out. Crow's Nest, Dunderberg, Storm King, Break Neck and Beacon Mountains tower over the banks. As soon as the steamer emerges from the Highlands, the river opens into beautiful Newburgh Bay, with Cornwall on the west bank, Pollopel's Island in the centre of the river and the quaint city of New- burgh (26,000), county seat of Orange County, directly ahead. After leaving Newburgh, the whole character of the landscape changes and the river flows through a most beautiful and prolific country, well wooded and undul- ating. The stately yacht we have just passed belongs to young Vincent Astor, whose ancestral home, FernclifFe, is just above Poughkeepsie at Rhinebeck, almost adjoining the country home of the Hon. Franklin D. Roosevelt, As- sistant Secretary of the Navy. At Poughkeepsie, how- ever, the trip ends for the day. We catch the down boat from Albany, which lands us in New York about eight o'clock, greatly rested and hugely delighted with all the beauties and wonders we have seen. 293 ^ THE UPPER WEST SIDE Riverside Drive THIS beautiful section begins at 72nd Street and stretches north along the Hudson River to the end of the island at Inwood Park. It can best be seen from the top of the Fifth Avenue 'buses, which traverse its entire length to 135th Street. The Broadway cars, the subway and the elevated all have stations at 72nd Street and the distance west to the Drive is not far. The drive is fast becoming the most beautiful as well as interesting park in the city. All the diverting pano- rama of marine life on the river is spread before the eyes of the onlooker. An anchorage for the Atlantic Division of the Navv extends along the shore from 90th Street up to Spuyten Duyvil. When the fleet is home the scene is one of exhilaration and the Jackies are pop- ular heroes. The broad tree-shaded boulevard, the pedestrian walks the bridle paths and the swiftly moving procession of shining automobiles all tend to make the drive a pop- ular resort for the people of the city on holidays and 295 special occasions. No buildings are permitted except on the east side, and the attractive outlook provided by the Hudson River has brought together a number of well-to-do families who have erected beautiful homes in this part of the city. And the apartments which also line the drive are of a distinctively superior type. One of the most interesting of the former is the home of Charles M. Schwab, at the corner of 73rd Street. It has an added interest to New Yorkers from the fact tliat on the death of Mr. and Mrs. Schwab the house and grounds will revert to the city. The present value of the property is over $3,000,000. All along the drive are other notable houses, monuments and statues. The residence of the late Bishop Potter at 89th Street, and next to the Scliwab house, is one of the most beautiful. At 76th Street is the Hamilton fountain, an ornate struc- ture sliaped as a drinking trough for horses. The Sol- diers' and Sailors' Monument, erected for those who fell in the Civil War. In front of the monument is a copy of Houdin's statute of Washington, a gift from school cliildren. At 93rd Street is the new Joan of Arc statute, part of the pedestal being made from stone which came from the recently demolished prison in Rouen, in which tlie Maid of Orleans was confined. At 96th Street is the Cliff Apartment House. Above the second elevation is a frieze in low relief carrying out symbolically the moun- tain lions, rattlesnakes, buffaloes' skulls and other local environments of a genuine cliff dwelling in Arizona. It is a clever idea and never fails to attract attention. At 100th Street is the Firemen's Memorial. From 116th Street north is perhaps the finest view of the river. At 122nd Street the drive widens out, enclosing a broad centrial triangle containing the chief point of interest along the whole length of the drive — Grant's Tomb. This is perhaps the best-known object in the coimtry 297 from its frequent reproduction in postal cards, engrav- ings, magazines and guide-books 1*^^^;^^%^^^,^^^,^'/ site, and rises to a height of one hundred and fifty feet The mausoleum is open from 10 A. M to 5 P M. It contains the bodies of General Grant and l^^s ^^i/«- North of the tomb is the gingko tree sent by Li Hung Chans-, the great Chinese statesman and admirer of Grant There is a tablet containing an account of this tribute adjoining the tree. v 4. k Bv a curious turn of fortune the great General s tomb is placed so that it seems to guard another little grave —that of a five-year-old child who died m 1797. It is the only grave except Grant's maintained and cared for by the city in one of its public parks. It appears that in years gone by the land was owned by George Pollock in 1790. He afterwards returned to Ireland and subsequently sold the property to Cornelia Ver- planck— all but the little grave in which lay all that he had cared for in America. He sent money to erect a small fence and a headstone in which he carved his affec- tion in the solitary line: TO AN AMIABLE CHILD. When condemnation proceedings were instituted to enable the city to acquire this land for a public park this curious indenture was encountered. Perhaps some sentimental feeling was aroused; at all events, the city accepted the land with the condition that the little grave of an amiable child must always be cared for, and there vou will see it just north of Grant's Tomb. ' A building that is convenient to the tomb is the Clare- mont restaurant, owned by the city and is one to which strangers frequently repair at this point of their travels. It is a very old building, dating back almost to the Revolution. * It has had an interesting history. Viscount ur ,«w park, For. Tryon. The entrance gate from the south ^'^L-cheTCX'SXtn If^^e. iS'Xor^^^^ ^^^ Courtena^y, who occupied it in 1807, viewed the trial trip of Fulton's Clermont from the veranda In 18K) It became the abode of the Emperor Napoleon's brother Joseph. Quite a few changes have been made from time to time m portions of the building, but structurally it remams the same. A very good dinner may be had here amid pleasant surroundings. The viaduct crossing Manhattanville carries the drive io Washington Heights. Houses now practically disap- pear, and the view of the river and of the Palisades becomes more beautiful. The busses, however, branch off at 13Dth Street, and the rest of the distance must be made bj^ private conveyance. You have, however, seen practically all that is to be seen of Riverside Drive although the rural beauty of the drive from this point is very delightful. ^ Just beyond the drive, and what will soon be a con- tinuation of it, is the beautiful new Tyron Park, recently presented to the city by Mr. John D. Rockefeller, Jr' which IS described elsewhere. 302 ^.gnDDnnDnDQDDQDnnnaomQ ^^ goamgdmmDQQDnnDaDaaQQDDQQ nnnnQoooramoQagcoogggr"" nDDD' DDnnnn nnnnnnnnmnnnnnnnDDaoODDDSDnonpn 3 to *- «o 1 ^^ o 'a rt^ 2 2^" to r- a •^ rt tn *" llJUlJiitus&aoaDaoooonoDODm^^ ■§ CIS rt Battle of Harlem Heights.— Fro m an old The Roger Morris House WASHINGTON'S HEADQUARTERS ON WASHINGTON HEIGHTS. ONE OF OUR MOST INTERESTING REVOLUTIONARY LANDMARKS. (COMMANDING a superb view of the Harlem val- itj, looking south from 160th Street and Jumel -t'lace, stands what is easily the most important build- ing, historically, in New York— the Roger Morris House, it is reached by the Broadway subway, 157th Street station; walk three blocks to the east. Also by th- Sixth Avenue elevated, getting off at 155th Street. The building was erected in 1765 by Lieut. Col. Ro^er Morris, of the British Forty-seventh Regiment and a member of the King's Council. Morris and Washing- ton were brothers in arms during the unfortunate attack 304 The Roger Morris House, Washington s HeadquarterB at Battle of Harlem. Perhaps the most interesting Colonial building now standing on Manhattan Island, 160th Street and Jumel Place. Take West Side Subway or Fifth Ave- nue Buses. The Van Cortlandt Mansion in Van Cortlandt Park. Washington passed a night here. Contains an interesting and valuable collection of Colonial relics on Fort Du Qiiesne, in which the former was wounded. It is also stated that Mrs. Morris refused the hand of Washington, preferring the dashing young soldier who wore the King's uniform. After the Revolution the estate was confiscated and sold. Meanwhile it looms large in the pages of American history. It is the building most intimately connected with Washington in New York during hostilities. It was occupied by him as headquarters from September 16 to October 21, 1776 — a period of over five weeks. Here he formed plans for the defence of the heights and con- sidered measures for the blockade of the Hudson River. At the same time he issued the remarkable series of gen- eral orders now so eagerly read, and at the same time carrid on the famous correspondence with William Duer, of the secret Committee of Safety. He had under him nearly 8,000 volunteers, for the larger part wholly un- trained, undisciplined and about as motley a crew as ever gathered under any commander. Most of them enlisted for only about thirty days, and never troubled themselves to procure suitable uniforms. Notwithstanding their comm.on love of country and un- doubted patriotism, they were poor material out of which to oppose the regular trained troops of the British, and the result was a severe defeat for the Americans and the capture of Fort Washington. The prisoners were first assembled in the barns on the Morris place, and later transferred to hulks and prison ships in New York. During this exciting period the Morris House was the centre of operations, with Washington as first in com- mand. Upon its surrender to the British, it was occu- pied by Lieut. General Sir Henry Clinton, and became the headquarters of the invaders all through the sum- mer of 1777. In one of the rooms is shown an old table on which Andre wrote a letter to Arnold in the presence of his captors. 306 After Sir Henry's occupancy, the house was used dur- ing- the summer of 1778 and for the continuation of the war by the Hessian generals and their German staff. With the close of the Revolution the romance of the house for the moment ends, to be renewed at a later date by the wife of Stephen Jumel, a wealthy French- man who purchased the house in 1810. As in the case of all Royalists, the property of Roger Morris was confiscated and sold. In the days of its ill fortune it became an inn, known as Calumet Hall, and was the first stop for a change of horses on the trip to Albany, being then eleven miles from the city proper. In 1790 it flashed forth for an instant in all its old- time splendor — the old Commander-in-chief and his cab- inet, after a visit to Fort Washington, tarried here for dinner "provided by a Mr. Marriner," as the old chron- icler records. Among the distinguished guests accom- panying the President were Alexander Hamilton, New York's first and greatest statesman, and Washington's chief councillor in the new government, who was then only about thirty years old; Thomas Jefferson, not yet the world-famous personage in histery he has since be- come as the author of the Declaration of Independence; General Knox, little Nellie Custis, John Park Custis, John Adams, vice-president of the United States; Mrs. Adams and Mrs. Hamilton. Truly a notable gathering and well calculated to once again bring the old house to its old-time dignity. With the departure of these guests the fame of the old mansion seemed also to de- part, and for nearly twenty years it stood neglected and forlorn. Its purchase by the wealthy merchant al- ready mentioned served to restore its fallen fortunes for a period, as we find it for over fifty years occupy- ing a conspicuous position in the annals of old New York. 307 Jumel restored the mansion to the same condition in which it was in Washington's time, thus performing a very valuable public service. When the house finally- passed into the possession of the city for all time, it greatly simplified the work of making the restoration complete. During the Jumel occupation the old house continued to add to its historic reputation. In 1815, after Water- loo, Jumel sailed for France for the purpose of bringing back the great Napoleon here to end his days in exile. But the plan failed and Napoleon died in St. Helena. The Jumels brought back many presents from Napoleon and souvenirs of his reign. His campaigning trunk, a chariot clock from the Tuilleries, a table painted by Josephine and numerous pieces of furniture remained in the house as late as 1889. Stephen Jumel died in 1 832 and was buried in old St. Patrick's Cathedral, then in Prince Street. The next year all New York was stirred by the news that Mme. Jumel had married the notorious Aaron Burr. Since the duel with Hamilton, Burr's fortunes had fal- len to a low ebb and the marriage was looked upon as a money-making scheme. The union did not last long and a separation and divorce soon followed. Mme. Jumel died in 1865, surviving by many years all who connected the Morris House with the Revolution, and was buried in old Trinity Cemetery, at One Hundred and Fifty-fifth Street and Broadway, but a slight distance from the old home in which for so m.any years she was so prominent a figure. A niece of Mme. Jumel then occupied the house for many years. Her husband studied law with Burr, and his friends included N. P. Willis and his sister Fanny Fern; James Porter, the poet; Mrs. Blennerhasset and many other literary friends. Fitz-Greene Halleck, on one of his many visits here, wrote his most famous poem, 308 "Marco Bozzaris," on a stone in the rear of the house which is still pointed out. By this time the people of New York became aroused to the historic importance of this house, and after many attempts the property was finally secured by the city through the Washington Heights Chapter of the Daugh- ters of the American Revolution, assisted by the Society of the Sons of the Revolution. It was then formally opened to the public. Each room now contains many interesting items and is designated by name, so that the contents are readily identified. The most important is called the Council Chamber, and is the large room at the back of the hall. In Wash- ington's time it was known as the Court Martial Room, and contains one of Washington's china plates decorated with the insignia of the Cincinnati. In this room Wash- ington received visits of the sachems of the Five Nations who offered their allegiance to the American cause. The Guard Room has many relics discovered in the neigh- borhood by Mr. Reginald Pelham Bolton, and Mr. Cal- ver, another enthusiast, who discovered a goodly num- ber of old camp sites, graves and other hidden remains of Revolutionary days, containing muskets, buttons, old cooking utensils, uniforms, coins, etc. Washington's bedroom is, of course, an object of par- ticular interest. There are few remaining houses where the father of his country slept for so many nights as in the Morris House. This room is now furnished with colonial furniture, of a character the same as used by Washington while here. The office is also interesting, as indeed is every room which the commander-in-chief is known to have occupied personally. The Lafayette Room is on the second floor and contains the richly carved bed and sofa actually used by Lafayette on. his visit to Charleston, S. C, and one of his gloves. 309 On the second floor in the hall is a copy of the flag used by Washington two and a half years before the making of Betsy Ross' design. It is the English flag, with red and white stripes substituted for the plain red field. Other important items in the house is the Washington table from Fraunces Tavern^ Aaron Burr's trunk, Gov- ernor Bradford's punch bowl, Governor Trumbull's chair and many other colonial relics appropriately disposed throughout the building. The run up to the old headquarters takes not over half an hour and is worth the time. In Trinity Ceme- tery (this must not be confused with Trinity Church Yard, downtown), not far from the Jumel Mansion, are also many interesting things to see. The late John Jacob Astor, who perished on the Titanic, is buried here, as is also Audubon, the great naturalist, and Clement Moore, who wrote that pretty little poem known by children the world over, " 'Twas the Night before Christmas" Every Christmas, the school children of New York gather around the grave and bedeck it with flowers. It is a beautiful tribute. A son of Charles Dickens w^ho died during a visit to this country is also buried here; so we have a reminder of tliat other great Christmas story, "Tiny Tim." 310 Cathedral of olin tilt' Divine. MorninRside Heitflit^ THE ACROPOLIS OF AMERICA COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY, CATHEDRAL OF ST. JOHN THE DIVINE, MORNINGSIDE HEIGHTS, HORACE MANN SCHOOL, BARNARD COLLEGE. npHIS section of the city has been recently described -■- as the Acropolis of America, and extends from Riverside Drive to Morningside Park. These are the grounds of Columbia University. The college grounds proper extend from One Hundred and Fourteenth Street to One Hundred and Twentieth Street, and from Broad- way to Amsterdam Avenue, but the land west of the col- lege gounds proper, from One Hundred and Sixteenth to One Hundred and Twentieth between Broadway and 313 St. Paul's Chapel, Columbia University. Main reading-room. Low Library, Columbia University. II. itue iiy Coii^lantine Meunier, the Belgian sculptor, in front of the School of Mines, Columbia University. Claremont Avenue, and the blocks nortli from One Hun- dred and Twentieth Street to One Hundred and Twenty- first Street, also the land to the east from One Hundred and Sixteenth to One Hundred and Seventeenth Street between Amsterdam Avenue and Morningside Avenue, upon which stand Barnard College, Teachers College, the Horace Mann School and the president's house, are all included in the University buildings. On the frieze of the librarv of the university is inscribed the follow^ KING'S COLLEGE FOUNDED IN THE PROVINCE OF NEW YORK BY ROYAL CHARTER IN THE REIGN OF KING GEORGE II PERPETUATED AS COLUMBIA COLLEGE BY THE PEOPLE OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK WHEN THEY BECAME FREE AND INDEPENDENT MAINTAINED AND CHERISHED FROM GENERATION TO GENERATION FOR THE ADVANCEMENT OF THE PUBLIC GOOD AND THE GLORY OF ALMIGHTY GOD The Broadway subway cars will bring you right to the college entrance from any part of the city in a very short time. The Fifth Avenue motor busses also let you off at Riverside Drive and One Hundred and Sixteenth Street within a short block of the grounds. By this lat- ter route you have the added pleasure of the scenery along the river and the drive, a valued addition to the pleasures of the trip. Every facility is provided strang- ers for a walk through the grounds, and many of the buildings are open for inspection by the public. A model of all the university buildings twenty feet by thirty-five, including all those planned as well as erected — a gift of F. Augustus Schermerhorn, class of '68 — is in the 318 EntraiK to College of the City of New York. Terrace and 139th Street St. Nichola: The Hall of \ :k Uki . ~ t;. , Fordham ersity Heights, basement of Kent Hall, southwest corner One Hundred and Sixteenth Street and Amsterdam Avenue. At 138th Street extending to 140th Street is the col- lege of the City of New York, with free tuition and 7,000 scholars. It is the largest school under municipal control in the world. The block southeast of the college grounds contains a huge amphitheatre known as the Lewisohn Stadium. Besides sports, this immense en- closure is used for pageants, community singing, etc. It is a most useful structure. Leaving the City College grounds we go north on the surface cars to Fort Wash- ington Park which contained the three forts, Washing- ton Tyron and George, and formed the Revolutionary defences of the Battle of Harlem Heights. Many old relics in the way of arms, buttons, cooking utensils are dug up in this neighborhood as the British ^forces stayed here nearly seven vears after the battle. A tablet on the Bennett property at 183rd Street and Washington Ave- nue, erected by James Gordon Bennett, marks the exact site of Fort Washington. At Broadway and 204th Street is the old Dyckman House dating from 1787 and recently restored. It is considered a typical old Dutch farm house. Continuing to the end of the Subway we alight at the entrance to Van Cortlandt Park, which begins at 242nd Street, just beyond the Harlem River m the Bronx. i • i, i There are two points of interest nearby which al- though not in Manhattan, may be included here for the benefit of those who have made the trip with us so f ar— the University of the City of New York, which is famous for its Hall of Fame, the gift of Helen Gould. Much discussion surrounds the selection of the names chosen for this distinction. A few blocks further, at 194th Street and Kingsbridge Road, is a very interesting old building— the home of Edgar Allan Poe. It is contained in a small section of public land called Poe Park. A short trolley ride on the surface car brings us to it. 321 Map Showing Upper Part of the Island Washington Heights Section. North from Washington's Headquarters, Roger Morris Mansion, 160-161st Street to the site of Fort George. At right facing Harlem River old Speed- way, popular in days of trotting horses. High Bridge across Harlem River and old Croton Reservoir. West or left hand side Fort Washington Park facing Hudson River. Fort Tyron and Fort Washington at north west corner 197th Street. We are now at the narrowest part of the island — about J/j a mile from East to West. OUR GREAT MUSEUMS THE METROPOLITAN, THE HISPANIC, THE NATURAL HISTORY, NEW YORK HISTORICAL, THE AMERICAN GEOGRAPHICAL, THE INDIAN, HEYE FOUNDATION, THE MAGNIFICENT GROUP OF BUILDINGS AT BROADWAY AND 155tH STREET NOW COMPLETED. OUR PUBLIC SCHOOLS. I N an educational sense our great public Museums are doing very important work. The Trustees of an institution like the Metropolitan Museum of Art have long ago outgrown the idea that it was simply a place in which to display rare paintings and priceless works of art. The idea now is to encourage the interest in these collections for their utilitj^ as well as their beauty and to seek to benefit industry and the artisan. The Metro- politan now lias a separate department in which the needs of the various workers in any line are carefully com- piled. Every effort is expended to acquaint firms in these lines with the specimens which are in the Metro- politan collection and to encourage visits and investi- gations. In this way the Museum is proving itself a practical helper in the work of the world today and is filling a career of usefulness never contemplated in its earlier plans. 324 The Metropolitan is so vast and so important that we could never do justice to it in the space here at my com- mand. No visitor would possibly think of coming to New York without visiting this magnificent institution with its acquisitions of the last few years outranking any similar institution in the world. It is open daily and on Sundays from 1 to 6 P. M. On Mondays and Fridays an admission fee for vis- itors of 25 cents is charged. The Museum publishes several catalogues of its own at moderate prices, 25 or 50 cents. Wheel chairs to avoid Museum fatigue can also be had. Expert guides for parties at 25 cents per person with a minimum charge of $1.00 per hour, is the most satisfactory and time saving method in which to see the Museum. A visit is a liberal education in itself, and we strongly recommend our friends to put this ex- cursion on the list. A very pleasant route is to go on top of a Fifth Avenue Bus (fare 10 cents), and ride to the main entrance at 82nd Street. The American Museum of Natural History. Is located directly west of the Metropolitan on an extension of Park property and runs from Central Park West to Columbus Avenue. The grounds are ample and attractive. The building is massive and imposing. It is a huge affair ranking next to the Metropolitan in size, and is supported by a combination of private and public enterprise. The late Morris K. Jessup was a great ad- mirer of this institution. The Peary Expeditions to the North Pole were financed by him and the resulting speci- mens brought to the Institution. And Col. Roosevelt delivered his only public lecture on his trip through South America before the Society's members. The many items of interest in this building are, like its neighbor, quite impossible to describe in a book so limited for space as this. Perhaps the most popular 326 exhibits are those showing the Jiomes of native New York Indians. These are arranged in groups with lifelike figures^ the background representing the country in which they lived. Nothing can exceed the interest or the nat- uralness of these groups. The figures seem about to speak and the illusion is perfect. Some of the large reproductions of prehistoric ani- mals are fascinating. The Thunder lizard — as large as a Pullman Car, always has a crowd. It is about 70 feet long and a man just reaches his knee. These and other popular exhibits serve to keep this Museum well in tlie public eye. Classes from the public schools are present every day to supplement their studies by the practical demonstrations afforded by these exhibits. All sorts of birds, animals, whales, reptiles, are shown in practically endless variety. The struggle for exist- ence among the lower forms of animal and bird life are admirably shown in a series of skillfully arranged cab- inets in which the whole scene is enacted before the eye — the little field mouse is slain by the bat; the bat by the owl; the owl by the hawk; the hawk by the Eagle, etc., etc, A life size Indian War Canoe filled with warriors painted and ready for the fray, meets you almost at the entrance. It is an exact reproduction of ^n iVlaskan Tribe and is dramatic in its realism. If the figures were suddenly to break out into song you would not be at all surprised. It is certainly one of the thrills of a visit. This Museum cannot be seen in a few hours. It is so vast, so absorbingly interesting that the visitor whose time is limited should be content with one or two sec- tions. More than that, it is apt to create a confused im- pression of the whole. It will more than repay all the time spent in a visit. 327 The New York Historical Society. On the block bounded by 76th and 77th Streets, Central Park West, just around the corner from the Museum of Natural History, stands the building of one of our oldest institutions — the Historical Society, found- ed by John Pintard in 1804. When completed, the building will cover the entire front of the block and will be a notable addition to our semi-public buildings. The Society will shortly mature plans for the completion of the building by the erection of two imposing towers at the north and south ends. The main structure may also be heightened. When completed, the Building Commit- tee feels assured that the final result will be a notable achievement. While the Historical is open to free ad- mission to the public, it is nevertheless a private institu- tion, supported entirely by its members. In its rare prints of old New York, the society has un- doubtedly the most comprehensive collection of items relating to New York, possessed by any organization, and in its maps, manuscripts and newspapers it has un- doubtedly the finest pertaining to our city that exists. Its library is also of extraordinary value and contains nearly 450,000 volumes, including pamphlets. Under the direction of Robert H. Kelby, Librarian, and his able assistant, Alexander J. Wall, who is also well known as a popular lecturer and authority on local genealogy, the Historical co-operates in a hearty manner with writers and others, seeking assistance, and this Guide is in no small measure indebted to them for many courtesies. It was among the first to endorse the movement to re- move the old post office and erect the old Liberty Pole as a war memorial, described elsewhere in this journal. It is ever in the forefront where New York City his- torv is concerned and a visit to the building is well 329 worth while. The Eighth Avenue ears pass the door. Steps are now being taken to complete the building with artistic towers on the vacant land both north and south of the present structure. When completed, it will be a wonderful addition to an already famous institution of learning and culture. With the formal opening of the newest of our Museums, the Indian, Heye Foundation, the Quadrangle at Broadway and 155th Street is now completed. It would be hard to find a more beautiful or charming section in all New York. The Indian Museum has not yet been thrown open to the public, but the exercises will have been performed ere this book is published, and it is only for us to say that it adds another inter- esting and educational institution to the city of the highest importance. The Hispanic Society of America forms the prin- cipal building in this distinguished group which is lo- cated on an elevation overlooking the Hudson, just where Riverside Drive makes a graceful curve as if to spare "Minniesland," the old home of Audubon, the great naturalist. It is devoted to the advancement of Spanish literture, art and history. The entrance proper is on Broadway between One Hundred and Fifty-fifth and One Hundred and Fifty-sixth Streets, and the Subway station is at One Hundred and Fifty-seventh Street. The Hispanic Societ}^ is thus conveniently reached, and the stranger who decides to spend an hour or two within its walls will have visited one of the most remarkable institutions not only in New York, but in the world as well. In fact, the Hispanic Society probably is better known in foreign countries than it is at home, though in recent years its local fame has greatly increased, partly by reason of the splendid exhibition of Spanish art which it has given from time to time. Its late exhibition of Spanish tapestries is a case in point. Lovers of art 330 were thus enabled to use the best examples of the most famous Spanish creations in this ancient art, and our country thus received the benefit. The growing influ- ence of. all things Spanish and Portuguese in this city has given the society an added importance that is rapidly growing as its usefulness becomes more widely known. The collections of this society, though small_, are of exquisite quality. No attempt has been made to include the varying grades of certain illustrative originals, the idea being to limit the exhibits to the very best specimen obtainable in each class, and also one other that might be described as generally typical. In this manner the so- ciety has gathered examples of wood carving, silver work, ivory plaques and combs of Phoenician origin, Hispano- Moresque plaques, neolithic and Roman pottery, Buen- Retiro ware, azulejos or glazed tiles, Roman mosaics and ecclesiastical embroideries, etc. Most of them are of the greatest rarity. As the society delights to encourage special research in literature and strives to promote new and original in- vestigations so that the result may be literature by itself, it offers special facilities to those pursuing such studies, and its library is, without exception, the most important devoted to this particular field in America. Of ity original manuscripts, first editions, etc.. New York is justly proud. It includes a large collection of early books, including examples of Lambert Palmart, of Valencia, the first printer of Spain, with some specimens of contemporary printers of Germany and Italy for the jDurposes of comparison; first editions of important Spanish authors and a unique special collection, includ- ing nearly every known edition of "Don Quixote" — itself an item of absorbing interest and value; auto- graph letters of Charles the Fifth and the Duke of Wel- lington; manuscripts of George Borrow and Robert Southey; ancient maps and. rare old prints and beauti- 331 fully illumined mediaeval liturgical books. The society gives its cordial co-operation to sincere workers and upon application to the library the treasures of the library are freely placed at the disposal of readers. Reader's cards may be had from the Librarian. It is doubtful if a similar collection of Spanish memorabilia is extant in any other country of the world. Its famous paintings are undoubtedly entitled to the high praise bestowed upon them as they are of excep- tional importance. The Spanish Painter^ El Greco^ is best represented by The Holy Family. Valesquez, the greatest, is represented by the Portrait of a Little Girl, Portrait of a Cardinal, and a full-length, life-size portrait of the Duke of Olivares. Morales: Madonna and Child, and Goya: The Second of May, The Duchess of Alba and General Foraster. Also paintings by Moro, Zubaran, etc., and by Sala, For- tuny, Domingo and Rico. Of the great living Spanish painters, Sorolla and Zuloaga, there is Leonese Peasants; Portraits of Jose Echegaray and of Vincent e Blasco Ibanez, the Spanish novelist now so popular for his "Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse, by the former and family of a Gipsey Bullfighter, and portrait of the painter by himself of the latter. Sorolla, by the way, was introduced to the art public of the new world by the Hispanic, whose notable exhi- bition of his work is still pleasantly remembered in New York. The Hispanic is constantly growing in influence. A bronze bust of Collis P. Huntington, father of the founder and to whom the building is a memorial, is of special interest. It is on the right as you enter. The building is open from 10 to 5 every day of the week, but the library is closed on Sundays and Mondays. 332 There are_, of course^ dozens of other institutions, all doing great work for the city, like the Genealogical and Biographical Society, which devotes itself to family his- tory. The Society of Mechanics and Tradesmen, at 16 West 44th Street, one of the oldest bodies (1785); the Society Library, our first public library, on University Place, and dozens of others. We can only enumerate those likely to have some interest for the visitor. Our Wonderful Public Schools. There are over five hundred and fifty public schools in the city, the attendance of which aggregates some nine hundred thousand pupils. These are located all over the city. New buildings are constantly in course of construction, but the complaint of inadequate service is constant. Each year sees a long article in the papers about "part time" scholars, and various remedies are pro- posed. The reason for this state of affairs is not always lack of school room. Populations in the City have a way of shifting from year to year, that puzzles the authori- ties to know just what to do. One section ol the city will have more than enough school room, while another not far distant will have far from enough. School houses are expensive, and when business suddenly drives out all the families in its particular neighborhood, the mov- ing of the school is not always practical. In addition to this oddity of metropolitan life there is the constant influx of new families from all over the country. More use of the buildings is now made than formerly. Night sessions in many of them for advanced pupils is more or less general, and hundreds of lectures with lan- tern slides and moving pictures, are held every evening throughout the winter season. No admission to these lectures is charged, and almost every known subject is discussed and illustrated at some time or other by a recognized authority. The community idea is also gain- 333 ing ground, and many meetings of purely local interest are held in these buildings. Community singing is also quite an important feature. Central Park has been the scene of many such gatherings on summer evenings, and on Christmas eve quite a celebration is had in Madison Square, on which occasion a Community Christ- mas Tree wonderfully decorated with many electric lights, is an added attraction. "The Black Belt." In the neighborhood of Lenox Avenue, beyond the 130th Streets and extending a short distance East and West, is a section densely populated by negroes. Dur- ing the War quite an exodus set in from the South, and we now have a colored population of nearly a hundred thousand. Long stretches of individual bouses and apartments formerly occupied by whites, have been abandoned to the newcomers. They have a theatre of their own in which legitimate plays are given with a caste entirely composed of negroes, in the daily newspapers. Strange to relate, our colored citizens very early showed puB Supu^p Sop ^ifspj:jsmra :^j[oddns o:^ uopBm[ouiSTp v vaudeville. So the proprietors of the Lafayette Theatre, the negro playhouse at the corner of 137th Street and Seventh Avenue, formed their troupe into a regular stock company and they are now known as the Lafayette Players. This versatile troupe of colored actors will ultimately tour the leading cities of the North and South, playing "Faust," "Madame X." "Tribly," "The Fortune Hunter," "Resurrection," "Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde," "The Rosary," "Seven Keys to Baldpate," and a hundred different dramas, ranging from the classic to Broadway farce. 335 I ~ mmm HISPANIC SOG American Geographical Society, the American Indian Museum, Hej^ on Broadway, .«Sii^ ^^0Sr ,^f .'» ^ ■ ^"^ OF AMERICA dation and the Numismatic Society. A Notable Group of Buildings 156th Streets RANDOM NOTES Nearly opposite old St. John's Methodist Church *on John Street was the site of the second theatre in New York. It was known in Colonial days as the Royal. The father of Joseph Jefferson played here and during the British occupation it was much frequented by His Majesty's officers. Major Andre, who was an amateur playwright of no mean ability, had several of his plays produced here during the Revolution. But what is perhaps its most interesting event was the night when Washington, then President, attended. That well-known song, "Hail Columbia," was composed in honor of the event, and played for the first time by the orchestra under the direction of the composer, Fyles. Few persons are aware of the birth of this popular song, which you see has quite a distinguished origin. * * -X- * 4«- And, speaking of songs, reminds us of another one that has enjoyed lasting popularity, "The American Flag," written by Joseph Rodman Drake, another New Yorker. The rollicking chorus of this ballad, "Three Cheers for the Red, White and Blue," might well be called the father of all the Cohan-Berlin syncopated ragtime-jazz music, now so universally popular. Drake was a contemporary and friend of Irving's. He was a most promising young poet, but died at the early age of twentv-five. His 'Culprit Fay" is one of the most fanciful poems in literature. To Fitz Greene Halleck, his devoted friend, his loss was a sorrow which he never forgot. His lament beginning: Green be the turf above thee, Friend of my better days, None knew thee but to love thee Nor named thee bnt to praise. still remains one of the most touching tributes in English poetry. 338 NEARBY ATTRACTIONS CONEY ISLAND, ROCKAWAY BEACH, THE INTERSTATE PALISADE PARK, BEAR MOUNTAIN, HIGHLANDS OF THE HUDSON, WEST POINT. TT is quite impossible in a book of ordinary size to speak at length of all the features of New York that are more or less of interest to the stranger. Besides the city^ there are its environs like Coney Island, for instance, that are practically part of the metropolis. A quarter of a million people sometimes spend the day at Coney Island, which is one of the really great sights of the world. It is not more than forty minutes from almost any station in the subway, and ranks among one of the most popular resorts near a great city in the world. It fronts directly on the ocean. The bathing is a great attraction, and there is generally a cool breeze blowing. A portion of the beach is now a public park. From the East side, take the subway at 60th Street on the Lexington Avenue line. On the West Side, subway, take the 42nd Street station. You can use any of the stations in between to reach those points, as best suits your convenience. 340 A very delightful route to Coney Island is by boat. Starting from 129th Street and sailing down the North River, touching at Pier 1, near the Battery, we get a splendid view of the docks and shipping of New York with the tall buildings in the background, and the ever- changing scenes of river traffic on our right. As we pilot our way into the bay the historic Governor's Island appears on our left and the famous Statue of Liberty on our right. Passing these landmarks we sail along the beautiful shore of Bay Ridge — another Brooklyn sub- urb — with its fine residences and its splendidly built Shore Road stretching all the way down to Fort Hamil- ton and the Narrows. At this point we emerge into the ocean and get a taste of the ocean breezes at first hand, and if our voyager is at all languid from the effects of the heat, the oxygen of the Atlantic transforms him, in an incredibly short time, into a most lively and vivalcious pleasure seeker. The Rockaways and Jamaica Bay. Next to Coney Island, Rockaway Beach is the most attractive of all the nearby resorts and in some respects it is even more delightful than its famous neighbor. The trip by water is a most pleasant one. To those who go to Rockaway by train the fishing stations on Jamaica Bay, just before reaching your destination, present a curious and rather perplexing puzzle of winding water ways, zig-zagging and crossing each other in an inter- minable maze. But the fishermen who frequent these perplexing waters know all the outs and ins, the deeps and shallows, the currents and eddies of this most strange fishing ground. The sensation of crossing this bay is peculiar. You wonder whether you are on land or water. Besides Rockaway Beach itself, where the crowds go, there is the beautiful Rockaway Park, a few miles far- ther west on the beach — a quiet and select place. And 341 in the other direction there is the fashionable Far Rock- away with its incomparable stretch of sandy beach, and Arverne with its many fine residences. For any one who likes a trolley ride through the country, a very pleasant way to return from Far Rock- away is to take the trolley car which starts from near the station and crosses the island to Jamaica. There the street car or elevated may be taken to New York. The trip this way consumes more than two hours, but is most enjoyable and gives the traveller a view of a very fine suburban part of Brooklyn and the village of Jamaica, itself a residential section of Brooklyn, which is growing very fast and is building up with handsome residences. From here car lines run to Flushing, Corona, College Point, and thence back to New York by Queensborough Bridge. Sandy Hook and Back. For a purely ocean trip nothing can surpass the sail to Sandy Hook and back. It matters not how the tem- perature may be on land, old ocean never fails to roll and toss and blow to your heart's content. The swift steamers that ply between the city from the foot of Liberty Street to the Atlantic Highlands usually carry a full passenger list. Many of them do not leave the boat at Sandy Hook, but come right back. All they want is the ocean breezes and the invigorating effect of real deep sea sailing. It is a pleasant trip, costs $2.50 return fare, and takes about one hour each way. The trains connect with the railroad running to all the famous Jersey Shore resorts you have heard so much about — Long Branch, Ocean Grove, Asbury Park, Sea Girt, Elberon, Spring Lake, Bradley Beach, etc. There are also some delightful short trips to Long Island by motor car or railroad. Oyster Bay, where 342 Roosevelt is buried, is about an hour out. Garden City, with its famous hotel, cathedral and great publishing house of Doubleday, Page & Co., and Camp Mills. Other resorts further out include Wheatley Hills, Old West- bury, Piping Rock, South, East and AVest Hampton — all containing the Summer homes of wealthy New York- ers. A ride on the Jericho Turnpike or on the famous Motor Parkway, that extends fifty miles into Long Island to Lake Ronkonkoma, is well worth taking. Con- sult the Long Island Railroad time table for further particulars. North of the city in Westchester County are two or three particularly interesting places. Long Vue, on the highest point of land near the city on the Hudson River, affords magnificent views of the river and in all direc- tions. It is about 40 minutes out by motor or by rail. The nearest station is Hastings-on-Hudson on the New York Central. Briar Cliff Lodge, about forty miles out, is another delightful resort. Gedney Farms, at White Plains, and the Hotel Gramatan, at La-wrence Park, Bronxville, are also well worth a visit. Yonkers, Irvington, (Washington Irving's home,) Tarrytown and its old Sleepy Hollow Cemetery, nearly 250 years old, and containing the only Dutch church standing (built in 1688) in this part of the country. Here are the graves of Andrew Carnegie, Washington Irving and the captors of Major Andre. John R. Rocke- feller and his brother, William, live just north of Tarry- town, besides that of many other well known people. These are all on the Central lines within an hour of the city. On the eastern side of the county are the pretty little villages of New Rochelle, Larchmont, Greenwich and Cos Cob. They face the waters of Long Island Sound and provide homes for some of the vast army of New York commuters. They are on the New Haven Railroad. 343 Trolley cars connect all these little places in some way or another^ and on an open car in Summer the trip is very pleasant and the country very beautiful. It is doubtful if any other large city has quite so many attractive environs as Nevr York. As a Summer resort itself, it is among the most popular in the country. With a few trifling exceptions the weather, even in July and August, is not at all uncomfortable and almost every night a cool breeze springs up and the evenings are enj oyable. Seashore, river and mountain are all readily reached within a few hours from the city. All the places we have mentioned can be visited and return with ample time for sight seeing, within a day. Even Atlantic City is reached within two and a half hours and special trains in the Summer on Sundays make the trip there and back within the day, allowing nearly six hours at the beach. And Block Island, twenty miles out in the ocean from the end of Long Island, is another Sunday one-day trip. In short, there are many numerous delightful outings, including a day's deep sea fishing out in the broad At- lantic, that is easily and cheaply made from the city. Golf, tennis and baseball, by world famous clubs and players, are of almost daily occurrence and no one need lack for amusement of any kind in or around New York. The famous Forest Hills tennis courts are fifteen minutes out on the Long Island Railroad, and the Polo Grounds are at 155th Street and Eighth Avenue. Dozens of golf clubs are near the city. Outsiders in New York The United States Census Bureau gives the following list of outsiders who are living in New York City: Alabama 2,165 Nebraska 934 Arizona 393 Nevada 239 Arkansas 577 New Hampshire 2,857 California 4,827 New Jersey 69,898 Colorado 1,105 New Mexico 360 344 Connecticut 25,235 Delaware 2,003 District of Columbia 4,781 Florida 2,399 Georgia 6,798 Idaho 341 Illinois 12,938 Indiana 4,356 Iowa '. ... 2,712 Kansas 1,266 Kentucky 4,520 Louisiana 3,331 Maine 6,693 Maryland 12,562 Massachusetts 34,977 Michigan 5,238 Minnesota 2,138 Mississippi 1,02S Missouri 5,443 Montana 458 North Carolina 10,736 North Dakota 152 Ohio 16,549 Oklahoma 194 Oregon 360 Pennsylvania 54,904 Rhode Island 5,655 South Carolina 8,229 South Dakota 199 Tennessee 2,425 Texas 2,387 Utah 320 Vermont 5,205 Virginia •. . . 28,862 Washington 753 West Virginia 1,279 Wisconsin 3,190 Wyoming 341 NEW YORK'S GREAT WAR MEMORIAL As the chief city in the Union, New York will un- doubtedly erect a magnificent monument to the Heroes of the Great War. Mr. Rodman Wanamaker is chair- man of the Mayor's Committee and the following prom- inent citizens are the members : Adams, Dr. P. H. Adams, Herbert Adamson, Robert Agar, John C. Albee, Col. E. F. Alexander, Major Gen. Robert Anderson, EUery O. Appel, John W., Jr. Appleton, Gen. Daniel Auchincloss, Gordon Babcock, W^oodward Caker, George F. Baker, George F., .Tr. Baker, Stephen Baldwin, Le Roy W. Bannard, Otto T. Bartlett, Paul W. Barclay, J. Searle Battle, George G. Baylies, Edmund L. Beal, Gifford Beard, Anson Berolzh-eimer. Philip Berwind, E. J. Berry, Lt. Col. C. W. Bigelow, Ernest A. Blair, John Inslee Blashfleld, Edwin H. Boomer, L. M. Borden, Col. H. S. Bowman, John McE. Boyle, Edward F. Brady, Nicholas F. Brannon, Dr. J. W^. Breed, William C. Brown, Charles S. Brown, Dr. Ellsworth Bruckner, Henry Brunner, Arnold W. Bullard, Major Gen. Robert L. Burch, Rt. Rev. C. H. Burr, William P. Burrell, Rev. D. J. Calder, William M. Cameron, W. Scott Campbell, H. D. Candler, Duncan Carey, Frederic F. Chalfin, Paul Chaplin, Dr. H. D. Choate, Joseph H. Clarke, E. A. S. Clarke, T. B., Jr. Clews, Henry 345 Cockran, W. Bourke Coler, Bird S. Compton, George B. Conboy, Martin Connolly, Maurice E. Cooke, G. E. Cooke, Dr. R. A. Cooke, Robert Grier Cortelyou, George B. Coudert, Frederic B. Cowdin, John E. Craig, Charles L. Cravath, Paul D. Crowninshield, Frank Cruger, Bertram de'N. Cruger, Major F. H. Curran, Henry H. Cutting, R. Fulton Davie, Col. Preston Day, William A. Day, Joseph P. Davies, Julien T. Davison, Henry P. Dodge, Cleveland H. Delafield, Richard De Rahm, Frederic F. Dillingham, C. B. Donovan, Col. W. J. Drayton, J. Coleman Dreicer, Michael Drennan, Thomas Du Pont, T. Coleman Dunn, Robert R. Duffleld, Rev. Howard Dwyer, John F. Dyer, Gen. G. R. Edgar, N. Le Roy Edwards, William H. Elkus, Abram L. Emerson, Guy Enright, Richard E. Fairchild, Samuel W. Faxon, William B. Finley, John H. Fish, Major H., Jr. Fiske, Haley Fiske, Rear Admiral Bradley A. Foley, James A. Posdick, Raymond B. Foster, F. de P. Franklin, P. A. S. Freelander, J. H. French, Amos Tuck French. Daniel C. Frew, '\^ . E. Friedsam, Michael Frissell, A. S. Frost, John S. Gallatin, Albert E. Gibson, Charles Dana Gleaves, Vice Admiral Albert Glennon, Rear Admiral James H. Goff, John W., Jr. Golden, John L. Goodrich, Lieut. Col. David M. Gordon, Gordon Grant, Rollin P. Griscom, Lloyd C. Guerrin, Jules Guggenheim, S. R. Guggenheim, E. A. Gunnison, Herbert F. Harding, J. Horace Harmon, John N. Harriman, Joseph W. Harriman, Oliver Harries, John A. Harris, Tracey Hyde Tlarvey, George Hastings, Thomas Iiawkes, McDougall Hayes, Rt. Rev. P. J. Hedges, Job E. Hemphill, A. J. Higgins, C. M. Hogan, Edward J. Holt, Dr. L. Emmett i^Toppin, William W. House, Col. E. M. Houston, Herbert S. Hoyt, Allen G. Hoyt, Capt. Lydig Hulbert, Murray Huntington, A. M. Huntsman, R. F. R. Iselin, Adrian James, Arthur C. Jenks, Jeremiah W. Johnson, Alfred J. Johnson, Bradish G. Johnson, Robert U. Juilliard, Frederic A. Kahn, Otto H. Kane, Grenville Kaufman, Louis G. Keep, Charles H. Kelsey, Clarence H. Kernochan, Frederic Kingsley, Darwin P. Knott, David H. Kountze, Lieut. Col. W. de Lancey Krech, Alvin W. Kuntz, George F. Lahey, William J. Lamont, Thomas W. 346 / Lamb, Charles R. Larkin, William P. Lavelle, Rt. Rev. M. J. Leach, John A. Lee, Frederic G. Ledyard, Lewis Cass Leslie, Warren Lewis, William E. Lewisohn, Adolph Lorillard, Pierre, Jr. Lowrie, Charles N. Lindeberg, H. T. Lynn, Preston P. McAdoo, W. Gibbs McAdoo, William INIcAlpin, Dr. D. H. McAteer, Howard McCormack, John McCarthy, Thomas D. McClellan, George B. McCook, Philip J. MacDonald, Henry McGarrah, Gates W. MacMonnies, F. W. Mackay, Clarence H. Manning-, Rev. W. T. Mansfield, Howard Marling, A. E. Marston, E. S. Milburn, John G. Miller, Dr. Frank E. Mills, Major Ogden L. Moran, Robert L. Morgan, J. P. Morgan, William F, Morris, B. W. Moore, John B. Mott, John R. Murphy, Patrick E. Munsey, Frank Murchison, Kenneth Nast, Conde Newberger, J. E. Newton, Byron R. Nicoll, Delancey Xixon, Lewis O'Brien, Morgan J. Ochs, Adolph S. Ohl, J. K. Olcott, E. E. O'Ryan, Major Gen. J. F. Osborn, Henry F. Parker, Alton B. Parson. Col. W. B. Patchin, Robert H. Patten, Thomas G. Peabody, Charles A. Pell, Herbert C. Perkins, George W. Pitcher, Lewis F. Pendleton, Justice F. K. Phipps, John S. Polk, Frank 1 .. Pomroy, Frank Ij. Pope, John Kusis^ii Porter, W. H. Porter, A. D. Porter, Gen. Horace Post, Augustus, Pratt, Carroll H. Presbrey, Frank Prosser, Seward Pulitzer, Ralph Pyne, Percy R. Reid, Ogden Reid, Daniel C. Deiland, Rev. Karl Rhines, Isaac O. Riegelmann, Edward Richie, John M. Ricliardtj, Eben Robbins, Arden M. Robinson, Capt. M. D. Robinson, Edward Rogers, Jason Robbins, Very Rev. H. C. Robinson, William S. Rockefeller, P. A. Root, Elihu Roosevelt, F. D. Ryan, Allan A. Rvan, Daniel L. Sabin, Charles H. Satterlee, Herbert L. Sayer, Francis B. Schiff, Mortimer L. Schwab, Charles M. Scribner. Charles Seligman, Henry Shanks, Major Gen. David C. Shaw, John M. Sheldon. Edward W. Shepard, Finley J. Sherry, Louis Shulhof, Otto B. Sinclair, Harry F. Sinnott, James Sinnott, John F. Smith, Alfred E. Smith, R. A. C. Snyder. Valentine P. Somers, Arthur S. Spedden, F. O. Stanchfield, John B. Stern, Louis Stetson, Francis L. Stettinius. E. R. Stewart, W. R. Stillman, James A. 347 Stimson, Col. H. L. Stires, Rev. E. M. Strong, Benjamin Sutphen, Henry R. Swann, Edward Swartwout, Egerton Talbot, Richmond Talley, Alfred" J. Tams, J. Frederic Thayer, E. V. R. Thomas, Augustus Thompson, Col. J. De Mont Timlow, William F. Trowbridge, S. B. P. Tuckerman, Paul Twitchell, H. K. Vail, Theodore N. Van Dyke, Dr. H. Vanderbilt, W. K., Jr. Vanderlip, Frank A. Vogel, Martin Wagstaff, David Walker, A. S. Wallace, J. N. Walsh, William E. Warburg, Felix M. Waterman, L. E. White, Gaylord S. White, James G. Whitehouse, J. N. de R. Wickersham, G. W. Wiggin, Albert H. Williams, Lt. Col. R. H., Jr. Williams, Talcott Wilmerding, Lucius Wilson, George T. Wingate, Gen. G. W. Winthrop, H. R. A committee of the Victory Hall Memorial Associa- tion, consisting of George Gordon Battle, James E. Cushman and Mrs. C. C. Rumsey, daughter of Mrs. E. H. Harriman, called on President F. H. LaGuardia of the Board of Aldermen, to discuss the erection of the hall on the site of the old Grand Union Hotel, Park Avenue, Forty-first to Forty-second Street. This is a very ambitious project, the building alone costing over ten million dollars. It has not yet been fully decided upon, but is one of the many suggestions made for the Monument. 348 ' ' ' ii ^^^HHIHHBHf WHERE PROMINENT PERSONS LIVE \ VERY prominent resident of the city passed away ''^^'-just recently. Mr. Andrew Carnegie. His late home occupies the block between 90th and 91st Streets. The best known residents of the city are perhaps J. P. Morgan and J. D. Rockefeller. The latter does not live exactly on the Avenue, but just a step west on 54th Street, and the former on Madison Av-enue, corner 36th Street. Many of the persons mentioned in the following list live on Fifth Avenue above 59th Street, East of Central Park. This mile or so contains the homes of New York leaders in society, finance and commerce. A ride on top of the Fifth Avenue 'bus going to 110th Street will take you past the section and by reference to this list you can easily keep informed as you ride by. A leisurely walk is of course likely to prove more satis- factory, as the 'bus doesn't give you time for more than a fleeting glimpse. Mr. J. P. Morgan, 231 Madison Avenue. Mr. John D. Rockefeller, Jr., 10 West 54th Street. Mr. Robert W. Chambers, 43 East 83rd Street. Mr. Vincent Astor, 840 Fifth Avenue. 349 Mrs. Burke Roche, 23 West 53rd Street. Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt, 1 West 57th Street. Mr. Theodore N. Vail, 150 West 59th Street (Navarro). Mr. Arthur Curtiss James, 39 East 69th Street. Mr. Cleveland H. Dodge, 90 Park Avenue. Mr. Henry E. Huntington, 2 East 57th Street. Mr. Archer M. Huntington, 15 West 81st Street. Mr. George Grey Barnard, 454 Fort Washington Avenue. Miss Elsie Janis, 55 W^est 71st Street. Mr. Julian Street, 151 West S6th Street. Hon. Franklin D. Roosevelt, 47 East 65th Street. Mr, George F. Baker, 258 Madison Avenue, Mr. George F. Baker, Jr., 260 Madison Avenue. Mr. Thos. F. Ryan, 858 Fifth Avenue. Mr, Francis L.ynde Stetson, 4 East 74th Street. Mr. John G. Milburn, 16 West 10th Street. Col. M. Friedsam, 400 Park Avenue. Mr. I. N. Phelps Stokes, 118 East 22nd Street. Mr. Samuel Sloan, 45 East 53rd Street. Mr. Nicholas F. Brady, 989 Fifth Avenue. Mr. George B. Cortelyou, Riverdale-on-Hudson. Hon. Lindley Garrison, 399 Park Avenue. Mr. Frank A. Munsey, "Sherrys". Mr. Ogden Reid Mills, 2 East 69th Street. Dr. Samuel W. Lambert, 130 East 35th Street. Pres. Nicholas Murray Butler, 60 Morningside Drive. Mr. John Drew, 96 Central Park West. Mr. David Belasco, 115 West 44th Street. Mr. George M. Cohan Mr. Arthur P. Williams, 117 West 58th Street. Mr. Otto Kahn, 1100 Fifth Avenue. Hon. George M. Wickersham, 30 East 70th Street. Miss Elsie Ferguson, 294 Riverside Drive. Miss Jane Cowl, 186 West 86th Street. Mr. H. O. Havemeyer, 1 East 66th Street. Mr. Reginald de Koven, 1025 Park Avenue. Mr. Victor Herbert, 321 West 108th Street. Mr. Irving Berhn, 30 West 70th Street. Mr. Irvin Cobb, 116 West 120th Street. Mrs. Richard Harding Davis, 19 Sheridan Square. Mr. Chas. Dana Gibson, 127 East 73rd Street. Mr. H. P. Davison, 690 Park Avenue. Mr. Frank Vanderlip, Plaza Hotel. Mr. Samuel Untermeyer, 2 East 54th Street. Mr. Charles M. Schwab, Riverside Drive and 73rd Street. Mr. Theo. Roosevelt, 201 West 74th Street. Capt. Archie Roosevelt, 201 West 78th Street. Col. E. M. House, 115 East 53rd Street. Mrs. Sayre (Pres. Wilson's daughter), 173 West 81st Street. Mr. Jacob Schiff (Mortimer L. at 2 East 80th Street). Mr. August Belmont, 820 Fifth Avenue. Mr. Brander Matthews, 337 West 87th Street. Sig. Enrico Caruso, Knickerbocker Hotel. Miss Louise Homer, 38 West 64th Street. Miss Geraldine Farrar, 290 Riverside Drive. Miss Mar>' Garden, 196 Central Park West. Miss Mary Pickford, 240 West 68th Street. Mr. Douglas Fairbanks, 119 Central Park West. 350 Mr. James B. Duke, 1 East 7Sth Street. Mr, E. H. Sothern, Hotel Lorraine. Miss Julia Marlowe, Hotel Lorraine. Mrs. H. P. Wnitney, 871 Pifch Avenue. Miss Eva Tanguay, 160 West 96th Street. Miss Blanche Bates, 630 West 121st Street. Mr. Fredk. McMonnies, 110 West 56th Street. Mr. Geo. Innes, Jr., 525 Park Avenue. Miss Maud Adams, 960 Park Avenue. Mr. W. R. Hearst, 137 Riverside Drive. Ml'. Rube Goldberg, 420 W^est End Avenue. Mr. Payne Whitney, 972 Fifth Avenue. Mr. Chas. F. Murphy, Fifth Avenue and 44th Street. Mr. Delancey Nicoll, 23 East 39th Street. Mr. W. B. Osgood Field, 645 Fifth Avenue. Mr. W. T. Hornaday, Zoological Park. Mr. Rodman Wanamaker, 37 West 56th Street. Mr. Howard Chandler Christy, 15 West 67th Street. Mr. Grantland Rice, 450 Riverside Drive, Mr. John McGraw, 228 West 112th Street, Col. Wm. Hayward, 120 Broadway, Gov. Al. Smith, 25 Oliver Street. Mr. Ralph Pulitzer, 17 East 73rd Street. Miss Frances Starr, 220 West 45th Street. Miss Anne Morgan, 219 Madison Avenue. Mr. De Wolf Hopper, 27 West 49th Street, Mr. Fred Stone, 27 Madison Avenue. Mr. Job Hedges, Union League Club, 1 West 39th Street. Mrs. John Perroy Mitchel Mr. Nathan Straus, 645 West End Avenue. Mr, Adolph Lewisohn, 881 Fifth Avenue, Mr, Harrison Fisher, 15 West 67th Street. Miss Ida Tarbell, 19 Sheridan Square. Mr. Ernest Thompson Seton, 6 East 58th Street. Archbishop Hayes, Madison Avenue and 50th Street. Miss Emma Goldman, 19 Avenue B, Ex-Gov. Charles E. Hughes, 32 East 64th Street, Hon. Elihu Root, 908 Fifth Avenue. Hon. Chauncey M. Depew. 27 AVest 54th Street. Judge Alton B. Parker, Metropolitan Club, ]\Tr. D. G. Reid, 907 Fifth Avenue. Mr. Frederic K. Coudert, 124 East 56th Street. Mr, Clarence Mackay, 834 Fifth Avenue. Mr. Joseph Hergesheimer, 160 Central Park West. Mr. Richard Le Galliene, 123 Riverside Drive. Dr. Lyman Abbott, 431 Fourth Avenue. Mr. David Warfield, 196 West S6th Street. Mr. Lionel Barrymore, 117 West 74th Street. Mr. Chas. Scribner, 9 East 66th Street. Mr. Geo. H. Putnam, 333 West 86th Street. Mr. James W. Gerard, 9 East 91st Street, Mr. Rex Beach, 17 West 66th Street. Bishop Burch, Amsterdam Avenue and 110th Street. Mr. Rupert Hughes, 37 Morningside Avenue. Mrs. Willard Straight, 1130 Fifth Avenue. Mr. W. Bourke Cockran, 107 East 73rd Street. Mr. Herbert L. Pratt, 907 Fifth Avenue. Mr. James K. Hackett, 58 West 71st Street. 351 Mr. T. C. Dupont, 11 East 78th Street. Mrs. J. G. Stokes (Rose Pastor), 88 Grove Street. Bishop Charles H. Burch, Amsterdam Avenue and 110th Street Mr. William Dean Howells, 50 East 58th Street. Mr. Hamlin Garland, 71 East 92nd Street. Mr. James Montgomery Flagg, 33 West 67th Street. Mr. Frank J. Sprague, 71st Street and West End Avenue. Mr. James Lane Allen, 460 West End Avenue. Miss Viola Allen, 167 West 81st Street. Mr. Winthrop Ames, 270 Park Avenue. Miss Margaret Anglin, 33 West 42nd Street. Miss Gertrude Atherton, 547 West 145th Street. Mr. John Kendrick Bangs, 145 East 63rd Street. Mr. Bernard Baruch, 135 West 79th Street. Mr. Balhngton Booth, 34 West 28th Street. Mr. Gutzon Borgium, 166 East 3Sth Street. Mr. Wilham J. Burns, 233 Broadway. Mr. Arthur Brisbane, 112 East 61st Street. Mr. William A. Clark, 13 West 102nd Street. Miss Rose Coughlan, 253 West 42nd Street. Mr. Timothy Cole, 507 West End Avenue. Mr. Kenyon Cox, 134 East 67th Street. Ml-. Palmer Cox, 145 East 70th Street. Miss Henrietta Crosman, 186 West 93rd Street. Miss Rachel Crothers, 138 East 40th Street. Mr. Alan Dale, 257 West 128th Street. Mr. Walter Damrosch, 146 East 61st Street. Mr. Robert W. De Forest, 7 Washington Square, N. Mr. Richard Delafield, 40 West 46th Street. Miss Elsie de Wolfe, 2 West 47st Street. Mr. Dwight Elmendorf, 201 East 68th Street. Miss Maxine Elhott, 109 West 39th Street. Mr. William Faversham, 187 West 69th Street. Miss Minnie Maddern Fiske, 135 West 69th Street. Mr. Simeon Ford, 43 West 74th Street. Mr. Daniel Chester French, 12 West 8th Street. Mr, Daniel Frohman, 145 West 79th Street. Mr. Elbert H. Gary, 856 Fifth Avenue. Mr. Giulius Gatti-Casazza, 832 Riverside Drive. Miss Grace George, 137 West 48th Street. Mr. Cass Gilbert, 42 East 64th Street. Mr. Walker Whiteside, Hastings, N. Y. Mr. Montague Glass. 376 West 78th Street. Col. Edward H. Green, 215 West 8Sth Street. Miss Louise Closser Hale, 27 Washington Square, N. Mr. Will N. Harben, 145 East 63rd Street. Miss Frances Burton Harrison, 653 West End Avenue. Mr. George Harvey, 171 Madison Avenue. Mr. Al. Hayman, 1430 Broadway. Mr. Oliver Herford. 167 West 74th Street. Mr. Peter Cooper Hewitt, 18 East 33rd Street. Mr. Robert Hilliard. 176 East 61st Street. Mr. Herbert C. Hoover, 173 East 81st Street. Mr. Walker D, Hines. 122 East 70th Street. Mr. Wallace Irwin, 183 West 93rd Street. Mr. William Travers Jerome, 103 East 84th Street. Mr. .Heywood Broun, 195 Claremont Avenue. MF'-Charles Rann Kennedy, 156 East 38th Street. 352 Mr. George F. Kunz, 601 West 110th Street. Mr. Thomas W. Lamont, 49 East 65th Street. Mr. Isaac V. Marcosson, 18 West 25th Street. Miss Edith Wynne Matthison, 734 Riverside Drive. Mr. James S. Metcalf, 2 West 67th Street. Mr. Henry Miller, 50 West 112th Street. Mr. Francis D. Millet, 146 East 73rd Street. Mr. Cleveland Moffett, 621 West End Avenue. Mr. Henry Morg-ehthau, 30 West 72nd Street. Mr. Joseph Pennell, 132 East 32nd Street. Mr. Michael I. Pupin, 1 West 72nd Street. Mr. Burr Mcintosh, 102 West 42nd Street. Franklin P. Adams ("F. P. A."), 6]2 West 112th Street. Mr. Philip D. Armour, 1067 Fifth Avenue. Mrs. Sara Cooper Hewitt. 144 East 39th Street. Mr. Paul Dana, 1 Fifth Avenue. Mr. Lispenard Stewart, 6 Fifth Avenue. Miss Kitty Cheatham, 274 Madison Avenue. Miss Norma Tallmadge, 318 East 48th Street. Miss Marguerite Clark. 311 West 28th Street. Miss Clara Kimball Young, 33 West 42nd Street. Mrs. Marv Pobej'ts Rinehart. 823 Riverside Drive. Miss Ethel Barrymore. 167 West 85th Street. Mr. Arthur Williams, Union League Club. Fifth Avenue Section Mrs. John Jacob Astor No. 840 Mr. Edwin Gould " 936 Mr. Francis Burton Harrison " 876 Rev. Alfred Duane Pell " 929 Mr. William Rockefeller " 689 Mr. Thos. F. Ryan " 858 Mr. Jacob H. Schiff " 965 Mrs. Finley J. Shepard (Miss Helen M. Gould) " 579 Mr. B. N. Duke " 200 Mrs. Marcus Daly " 225 Mr. Anthony J. Drexel, Jr " 1051 Mr. Fred'k S. Flower " 612 Mr. Henry Clay Frick 5th Ave. cor. 70th St. Mr. Robert Goelet No. 647 Mr. S. R. Guggenheim ? " 743 Mr. Rob't L. Gerry " 816 Mr. Wm. Guggenheim , " 833 Judge E. H. Gary " 856 Mr. Geo. J. Gould '] 857 Mr. Adrian Iselin, Jr " 711 Mr. Wm. E. Iselin \\ 745 Mr. Philip Lewisohn " 923 Mr. Mortimer L. Schiff " 932 Mr. William Salomon " 1020 Mr. Sam'l Untermyer " 675 Gen. Cornehus Vanderbilt " 459 Mr. Wm. K. Vanderbilt " 660 Mrs. Wm. K. Vanderbilt, Jr " 666 Mr. Harrv Payne Whitney " 870 Mrs. Frank W. Woolworth ", 991 Mrs. O. H. P. Belmont No. 477 Madison y 353 Mrs. H. O. Havemeyer 5th Ave. cor. 66th St. Mrs. E. H. Harriman 5th Ave. cor. 69th St. Mr. James Speyer No. 257 Madison Ave. Mrs. Andrew Carnegie 5th Ave. cor. yist St. Mr. James B. Clews Sth Ave. cor. S5th St. Mr. James B. Duke 5Lh Ave. cor. 78tii St. Mrs. Ogden Goelet 608 5th Ave. Mr. Elbridge T. Gerry 2 East Glyt St. Judge A. R. Lawrence 69 Washington Place Mr. Ogden Mills 2 East 69th St. Mrs. Herman Oelrichs 5th Ave. cor. 57th St. Mrs. Hamilton McK. Twombly 27 E. 55th St. Gen. Cornelius Vanderbilt 5th Ave. & 57th St. Senator William A. Clark 5th Ave. & 77th St. Mr. John D. Rockefeller 4 West 54th St. Mr. Wm. H. Vanderbilt 5th Ave., 53-54th Sts. WESTCHESTER-BILTMORE COUNTRY CLUB The newest, and what w^ill probably be the most pop- ular, nearby resort is the Westchester-Biltmore Country Club, under the direction of John McE. Bowman, presi- dent of the Pershing Square group of hotels in New York City. It is situated between the villages of Har- rison and Rye, in the most picturesque part of West- chester County. There are two 18-hole golf course;?, bridle path, i3olo field and a miniature lake for skating in the winter time. It is regarded as the most wonder- ful recreation center in the world. 354 OUR BIG MONEY INSTITUTIONS New York's Enormous Business as Reflected in its Bank Clearings^ Imports and Exports "DROADLY speaking, the size of any city's commerce is more or less indicated by the bank clearings pub- lished every week. We append the table as of August 23, 1919, from the New York Evening Post. It fortu- nately gives the figures not only for New York, but for ten other leading cities, and the comparison of the figures is very interesting, 1919. New York $3,618,214,375 Chicago 509,696,896 Philadelphia 361,456.100 Boston 273,719,890 Kansas City 220,500,000 St. Louis 141,512,533 San Francisco 125,000,000 Pittsburgh 111,722,475 Detroit 77,500,000 Baltimore 74,294.351 New Orleans 50,772,263 An idea of the business done by the banks may be gained from a study of the standing of the seven largest. 355 Compare these with similar figures published in your own town of your local banks and you get a better idea of New York's importance in the financial world. These figures are also from the official statement of May 10, \919. Net Net demand Capital. Profits. deposits. National City Bank $25,000,000 $54,132,000 $669,870,000 Chemical National Bank 3,000,000 9,578,700 59,844,000 Atlantic National Bank 1,000,000 958,200 15,406,000 Nat. Butchers & Drovers Bk. . 300,000 109,500 3,992,000 American Exch. Nat. Bank... 5,000,000 6,167,200 88,735,000 National Bank of Commerce.. 25,000,000 25,651,800 271,986,000 Pacific Bank 500,000 1,134,800 17,800,000 Chatham & Phenix Nat. Bank 3,500,000 2,822,400 90,697,000 Hanover National Bank 3,000,000 17,363,900 126,668,000 Citizens National Bank 2,550,000 3,286,300 36,238,000 Metropolitan Bank 2,000,000 2,404,600 31,363,000 Corn Exchani?e Bank 4.200,000 8,290,700 135,224,000 Importers & Traders Nat. Bk. 1,500,000 8,163,800 25,424.000 National Park Bank 5,000,000 19,439,300 168,186,000 East River National Bank.... 1,000,000 626,000 8,501,000 Second National Bank 1,000,000 4,066,500 17,038,000 First National Bank 10,000,000 31,297,500 146,757,000 Irving National Bank 4,500,000 6,112,000 126,352,000 N. Y. County Nat. Bank 1,000,000 421,800 12,135,000 Continental Bank 1,000,000 642,200 6,257,000 Chase National Bank 10,000,000 16,870,700 275,633,000 Fifth Avenue Bank 200,000 2,301,400 20,176,000 Commercial Exchange Bank.. 200,000 858,100 7,578,000 Commonwealth Bank 400,000 762,000 8,542,000 Lincoln National Bank 1,000,000 2,067.000 18,604,000 Garfield National Bank 1,000,000 1,342,000 12,871,000 Fifth National Bank 250,000 397,600 7,753,000 Seaboard National Bank 1,000,000 3,782,400 47,076,000 Liberty National Bank 3,000,000 4,704,900 55,183,000 Coal and Iron Nat. Bank 1.500.000 1,333,600 12,781,000 Union Exchange I, at. Bank... 1,000,000 1,271,200 18,329,000 Brooklyn Trust Co 1,500,000 2,289,800 28,498,000 Bankers Trus' Co 15,000.000 17,361,200 231,923,000 U. S. Mortgage & Trust Co.. 2.000,000 4.551,000 53,311,000 Guaranty Trust Co 25,000,000 28,525,700 481.915,000 New York's part in the five Liberty Loans is equally interesting. The results were as follows: Quota Subscribed Subscribers Allotment First $ 600,000,000 $1,186,788,400 985,150 $ 617,831,650 Second 900,000,000 1,550.453.450 2.182,017 1,164.366.950 Third 900.000.000 1,115.243,650 3.043.123 1,115,243.650 Fourth 1,800,000,000 2,044,931,750 3,004,101 2.044,931,780 Fifth 1.350,000,000 1,875,000,000 3,000,000 1,850,000,000 3.56 The imports and exports figures are also of interest. In 1918 the Imports were 1,251,790,373 Exports were 2,616,850,680 Total , 3,863,641,053 In the first four months of 1919 the Treasury Depart- ment writes me no less than 4^,379 vessels entered and cleared the Port of New York. The figures for export and import for 1919 so far available indicated a vast increase over the huge aniount reported for last year. The figures before the war, 1913 and 1914, were a good deal less than half the present returns. Vast additional dock space on Staten Island has re- cently been provided to meet this increased foreign business. The English ocean liners are also erecting special large new office buildings in lower Broadway on a scale that gives some idea of the immense business which they expect to do when they finally strike their stride. The huge buildings formerly occupied by the North German Lloyd and the Hamburg-American went out of existence, coincident with the suicide of their principal creator, Albert Ballin. Vast as the business of New York has been with for- eign countries in the past, it bids fair to totally eclipse it in the near future. Some Valuable New York Buildings. Name Equitable Building Mutual Life Woolworth New York Life Bankers Trust Co. . . Hanover Nat. Bank. American Surety Co. United "Bank Bldg. . . A.mer. Ex. Nat. Bank Guarantee Trust Co. Assessed Name Assessed Valuation Valuation $25,000,000 N. Y. Telephone $2,700,000 9.500,000 Butterick 1,300,000 9,500,000 Western Electric 1,770,000 4,000.000 Havemeyer 1,080,000 5,800,000 Met. Opera House.. 3,750,000 4,000,000 Macv's Department 2,425,000 Store 6,900,000 2,375,000 Johnson Building... 3,300.000 1,800,000 Herald 2,500,000 3,000,000 Mills Hotel No. 3... 1,235,000 357 Nat. Bank of Com.. $2,500,000 U. S. Realty and Improvement Co. . 6,000,000 Western Union CO. . . 6,500,000 City Investing Co... 6,625,000 Singer Building 7,000,000 N. Y. Tel. Co 5.060,000 Havemever Bldg. .. 1,875,000 Broadway Bldg. Co. 2,650,000 Woodbridge Building 1,850.000 Washington Bldg 2.000,000 Bowling Green 3,250,000 American Exp. Co.. 3,800,000 Adams Expr. Co 6,500,000 Empire Building 4,100,000 Carroll Building 2.250,000 Standard Oil 3,200,000 Lower Broadwav Realtv Co 3,300,000 Columbia Trust Co. 3,000,000 Manhattan Life 3,700,000 Stock Exchange 5,200,000 Commercial Cable Building 2,650,000 Produce Exchange.. 3,750.000 Mills 4,150,000 Morgan Building 5,100,000 Trust Companv of America 2,325,000 American Mutual In- surance Co 2,850,000 National City Bank. 5,500,000 Bank of Manhattan. 2,700,000 Mechanics and Metals Nat. Bank. 2,800,000 United States Exp. Company 2,700,000 Saks and Company. $3,070,000 Gimble Brothers De- partment Store . . 6,630,000 Pennsylvania Rail- road Terminal 14.830.000 Printing Crafts Bldg. 2,700,000 National Cloak and Suit Company 2,300,000 Knickerbocker Hotel 3,700,000 Long Acre Bldg 2,375,000 Fitzgerald Building. 2,100,000 Claridge Hotel 2,270,000 New York Theatre. 2,550,000 Putman Building... 2,560,000 Astor Hotel 3,875,000 Strand Theatre 2,360,000 The Belnord Realty Companv 3,500,000 John J. Astor 2,400,000 W. W. Astor 1,090,000 Rogers Peet Co 2,800,000 Hecksher Building.. 2,100,000 The Aeolian Co 2,275,000 Stern Brothers 6,000,000 Harvard Club 1,250,000 Hippodrome 2,250,000 Plaza Hotel 8,100,000 Biltmore Hotel 8,700,000 Belmont Hotel 4,450,000 Manhattan Hotel... 3,750,000 St. Regis Hotel 2,700,000 Gotham Hotel 2,700,000 Oceanic Investing Company 2,625,000 Postal Life Building 2,275,000 Andrew Carnegie... 2,425,000 Electric Light and Power Co 5,910,000 A Curious Book About Old New York. The Recent Revival of "Valentine's Manual. Although the New Yorker as a rule is apparently not particularly interested in the history of his city, that is to a large extent merely his habitual indifference to mat- ters which he considers personal to himself. As a matter of fact, New York is the only city in any country which supports an annual publication devoted solely to the city's past. Nothing about the present appears in its pages, everything must have the sanctity of age before it is 358 admissible to its columns. As books go, it is also ex- pensive — $20.00 per copy, in leather — yet it enjoys considerable circulation. If any of my readers are of an enquiring turn of mind and would like to know how New York used to look, how its old social life was con- ducted, how it grew up — in short, all the items that would go to make a biography — let him look between the pages of Valentine's Manual of Old New York, edited by the author of this book, Henry Collins Brown. The history of this unique publication strikes its roots also deep into the past. It was first published by the city itself in 1816 — a hundred years ago — as the "City Hall Directory." In 1840 it was enlarged and changed its name to the "Manual of the Corporation of the City of New York." The city discontinued it in 1866 and it lay dormant for half a century. In 1916 a number of old New Yorkers revived the ancient publication, giving it the name of the old editor, Valentine, who conducted the former series for the city from 1840 to 1866 and gained much fame thereby. To those who have enjoyed this little Guide and have antiquarian tastes, we can with safety suggest the "Man- ual" as the next addition to their library. Any bookstore has it. 359 •l llllllll llMMi lllllll i llll l lll l ll i l i l l llllll l l l l l l lM m. '9. \'^ , |.^-^~«l-^j ^., 4 B o Ihe Oe Witt I'luiton, first locomotive INTERESTING DETAILS « ABOUT THE GREAT CITY 'X^HREE and one-half million people travel every day -*- in the subways and elevated railways, and over one and one-half million in the surface cars. A passenger train arrives every 52 seconds. There is a wedding every 13 minutes. Four new business firms start up every 42 minutes. A new building is erected every 51 minutes. 350 new citizens come to make their homes every day. 4 transient visitors arrive every second. There were 814,045 telephones in New York on July 31, 1919; more than in Chicago, Boston and Buffalo combined; more than in all the states south of Mason and Dixon's line and west of the Mississippi. The telephone girls are the first to know it when New York gets nervous. Then the big centrals light up like Christmas trees. There are other things that show in the little signal lights. A shower keeps people off the streets and in- creases the 'phone traffic by about 100,000 calls, and 361 on the day the Lusitania was sunk the jump, in the Rector station alone, was from 71,526 to 92,055. A fire or an explosion may suddenly light almost every lamp in the nearby centrals, as the whole neighborhood de- mands information at once. More than 615,000,000 gallons of water are consumed daily. It comes from the Catskill Mountains. One of the deepest shafts of the Catskill Aqueduct is at the cor- ner of Clinton and South Streets, and another is at the crossing of Delancey and Eldridge. Each is as deep as the Woolworth Building is high. Each year this city adds enough people to make an Atlanta, a Hartford or a New Haven, and for each addi- /ed daily. It has been estimated that the increase in pop- 1 ulation from the time the work on the first Catskill aque- Hional person another hundred gallons of water are need- duct was begun until its completion was greater than the entire population of Chicago. New York's first barber shop for women is open at the Hotel Majestic. While New York State gets along on $70,000,000 or $80,000,000 a year for expenses. New York City requires $300,000,000. Chicago, $50,000,000; Boston, $30,000,- 000; Philadelphia, $46,000,000. A child is born every 6 minutes. 30 deeds and 27 mortgages are filed for record every business hour of the day. Every 48 minutes a ship leaves the harbor. Every night $1,250,000 is spent in hotels and restaur- ants for dining and wining. An average of 21,000 persons pass daily through the corridors of the largest hotel. Over 25,000 through the largest office building. 7,500 people are at work daily for the city in one building — the Municipal Building. 362 300^000 pass the busiest points along Broadway each day. More than 1,000,000 immigrants land every year. 3,750,000 people live in tenements. 105 babies out of every thousand die. 1 00 gallons of water is supplied each individual daily. Street lighting costs $5,000,000 yearly. The public parks cover 7,223 acres. Land reclaimed by filling with street sweepings covers 64 acres. It takes 1,800 drivers to collect city refuse. The public schools cost over $87,000,000 annually. The foreign commerce is nearly one-half of the entire country. Three million messages are sent and received by tele- phone daily. 100 new telephones are added each day. Subways and elevated traffic increases 100,000,000 yearly. More people living in its confines than in fourteen of our States and Territories. The record for being the greatest purchasing muni- cipality in the world, not excepting London. More than one-half the population of the State of New York. The majority of the banking power of the United States, which has two-thirds of the world's banking power. An annual population increase of more than 100,000, besides its own product of births. 1,562 miles of surface, subway and elevated railways, operating 8,514 passenger coaches, carrying daily 4,849,- 012 passengers on cash fares, and 419,779 on transfers. A density of population (in Manhattan) of 96,000 per square mile, six times that of any other city in the United States. Chicago, the next largest city, has 10,- 789 per square mile. 363 Some Simple Don'ts Don't ask a pedestrian where a certain street is. He is usually too busy to stop, and if polite enough to stop, won't know. No New Yorker knows anything about New York. Consult this Guide. Don't cross the street in the middle of a block. In Paris they arrest you for doing that, in New York they simply run you down. Use the corner crossings only. Traffic police guard important crossings. "Stop" and "Go" as they direct. Don't leave finger rings and personal jewelry on the wash stands of public dressing rooms while you go out- side to telephone. It is bad form, especially if you want to wear the hardware again. Don't buy the Woolworth Building, Brooklyn Bridge, the Metropolitan Tower, the City Hall or any prominent structure because a stranger happens to want to sell it to you for a few hundred dollars. Buy Thrift Stamps instead. The Gold Brick industry is still a flourishing business in New York. Don't hand your baggage to a porter outside Grand Central Terminal unless he wears a red hat. These out- siders are not allowed to pass the gate and you get stung for another quarter from the gate to the car. This is a species of petty imposition which the railroad company itself ought to suppress, but doesn't. 364 Don't travel with a dog. Bring somebody else's kid if you can't your own. Children are great company. Don't take the recommendation of strangers regarding hotels. Enquire of the Travellers Aid Society, whose representatives are in the stations. Don't get too friendly with plausible strangers. Bu- reaus of information are in every hotel, policemen are on every street corner, telephone books are handy and there is little excuse for the deplorable results that sometimes follow a departure from this advice. Don't gape at women smoking cigarettes in restaur- ants. They are harmless and respectable, notwithstand- ing and nevertheless. They are also "smart". Don't forget to tip. Tip early and tip often. This is where they raise the palms for Palm Beach. Don't block the sidewalk. New Yorkers will gather in crowds to see a young lady demonstrate a new razor in a shop window or a safe going up the side of a building. Ignore such gatherings ; show our ex-hicks that you come from a real town. Don't judge the importance of a man by the number of times he is "paged". That's old stuff! Don't telephone if you are in a hurry. Walk. It's quicker, though it used to be the other way 'round. Don't act, however, as if you were another Daniel in a Lion's Den, simply because we have pointed out a few obvious precautions. New York is just like your own home town, only bigger and the vast majority of its people are decent, likeable citizens. But there are also others. 365 End of the City at Inwood Heights. North from Fort George to Inwood Hill and Spuyten Duyvil Creek and Northern end of Manhattan Island. Ferry to Inter State Palisade Park at Dyckman Street. Dyckman House at 212th Street and Haw- thorne Avenue. Old Kings Bridge spanned the Harlem just beyond the Elevated. New Isham Park at 215th Street. Go down the road at extreme end of Inwood Hill to Cold Spring, see Indian Rock House and great Tulip Tree 6^ feet in diameter, possibly 300 years old, also place where Hudson landed with part of crew. We are now at the end of Manhattan Island on which is located the nIH Ciiv r,f ■Nr*>w Vr,»-lr tir^,„ ^r,^1^A +V, » "Tt^r-r^,,rrU ^f A^a r, Vi o tf -. r, " GENERAL INFORMATION Patronize legitimate shops and regular stores, of well-known^ reliable establishments follows: A list Re STAURANTS Alps Restaurant, 1022 Sixth Avenue. Archambault, 2678 Broadway. Bal-Tabarin, 1646 Broadway. Browne's Chop House, 1424 Broadway. Louis Bustonoby, Sixth Avenue and 40th Street. Cafe Boulevard, Broadway and 41st Street. Cafe des Beaux Arts, 80 West 40th Street. Campus Restaurant, 900 Columbus Avenue. Castle Inn Restaurant, 3360 Broadway. Childs Restaurants, Throughout City. Churchill's, Broadway and 49th Street. Delmonico's, Fifth Avenue and 44th Street. Drakes Restaurant, 119 West 42nd Street. Engrel's Chop House, 61 West 36th Street. Fifth Avenue Restaurant, Fifth Avenue and 23rd Street. H. Gertner, 1446 Broadway. Gossler Bros., Inc., 900 Columbus Avenue. R. M. Haan & Co., 13 Park Row. Healy's Restaurant, 30 East 42nd Street. Jack's Restaurant, 761 Sixth Avenue. Keen's Engrlish Chop House. 107 West 44th Street. Lafaj'ette Restt^iirant, 9th Street and University Place. Lorber's Restaurant, 1420 BroadM^ay. Lusser Restaurant, 149 West 43rd Street. Mouquin's Restaurant, 454 Sixth Avenue. Palais Royal, 1590 Broadway. Pes WofRn^ton Coffee House. 11 East 44th Street. Rig-ETS Restaurant, 43 West 33rd Street. Rector's, 160O Broadway. Rog-ers, 801 Si^th Avenue. M. Strunsky. 34 West 35th Street. Wolpin's Restaurant, 1216 Broadway. Haberdashers Samuel Budd, 572 Fifth Avenue. John David, Broadway and 32nd Street. Herald Men's Shop, 1217 Broadway. Emanuel Kalish, 1243 Broadway. Kaskel & Kaskel, 535 Fifth Avenue. Nat Lewis, 1578 Broadway. Rollins. 1296 Broadway. Wallach Bros., Broadway and 29th Street, and Branches. Weber & Heilbroner, 1505 Broadway and Branches. General Outfitters Brill Bros., 44 East 14th Street, and Branches. Brokaw Bros., 1457 Broadway. Brooks Bros., 346 Madison Avenue. Browning King & Co., 1265 Broadway. Monroe Clothes Shops, 50 East 42nd Street, and Branches. Park Taylor, Inc., 1333 Broadway, and Branches. Rogers Peet Company, 842 Broadway, and Branches. Department Stores B. Altman & Co., Fifth Avenue and 34th Street. Bloomingdale Bros., Third Avenue and 59th Street. Gimbel Bros., Broadway and 33rd Street. James A. Hearn & Son, 20 West 14th Street. H. C. F. Koch & Co., 132 West 125th Street. Jas. McCreery & Co., 5 West 34th Street. R. H. Macy & Co., Broadway and 34th Street. Rothenberg & Co., 34 West 14th Street. Saks & Co., Broadway and 33rd Street. John Wanamaker, Broadway and 10th Street. Jewelers Black, Starr & PYost, Fifth Avenue and 48th Street. Robert S. Chapin, 634 Fifth Avenue. Darcy & Hayes, 366 Fifth Avenue. Dreicer & Co., 560 Fifth Avenue. Frederics, 547 Fifth Avenue. B. M. Gattle & Co., 630 Fifth Avenue. Hallmark Jewellers, 469 Fifth Avenue. Theodore A. Kohn & Sons, 321 Fifth Avenue. Marcus & Co., 544 Fifth Avenue. Reilly & Cheshire, 512 Fifth Avenue. 368 Principal Theatres and Amusement Places Audubon — Broadway & 165th St. Academy of Music — E. 14th St. & Irving PI. A I ham bra— 7th Ave., 126th St. American — Eighth Ave., 42nd St. Astor — Broadway and 45th St. Adman Hall— 29 W. 42nd. Belasco — 44th St., near Broadway. Berkeley Lyceum— 19 W. 44th St. Booth— 22 W. 45th. Broadway — Broadway, 41st St. Carnegie Lyceum — 57th St. & 7th Ave. Carnegie Music Hall— 57th St. & 7th Ave. Casino — Broadway, 39th St. Century — Eighth Ave. and 52d St. Circle^ — Broadway and 60th St. Cohan's — Broadway, 43d St. Collier's— 41st St., east of Broadway. Colonial— Broadway and 62d St. Comedy — 41st St. bet. Broadway and 6th Ave. Cort— 48th St., east of Broadway. Criterion — Broadway, 44th St. Daly's— Broadwav, 30th St. Eltlnge— 236 West 42d St. Empire — Broadway, near 40th St. Fifth Avenue — Broadway, near 2Sth St. Forty-eighth St. — 48th St., east of Broadway. Forty. fourth St.— 216 W. 44th St. Fulton — W. 46th St., near Broadway. Gaiety— 46th St. and Broadway. Garden — Madison Ave., 27th St. Garrick — 35th St., near 6th Ave. Globe— Broadway, 46th St. Grand Central Palace — Lexington Ave., 46th St. Grand Opera House— 23d St., 8th Ave. Hackett— West 42d St. Harris— West 42d St. Herald Square — Broadway, 35th St. Hippodrome — Sixth Ave. and 43d St. Hudson— W. 44th St. Irving Place — Irving Place. Keith's— 14th St., near Broadway. Knickerbocker — Broadway, at 3Sth St. Lenox Lyceum — E. 59th St. Lexington Opera House — Lexington Ave., 58th St. Liberty— West 42d St. Lincoln Square — 1947 Broadway. Little — 44th St., west of Broadway. Longacre — 4Sth St., west of Broadway. Lyceum — 45th St., near Broadway Lyric — 43d St., near 7th Ave. Madison Square Garden — Madison Ave., 26th St. Majestic — 59th St. and Broadway. Manhattan— West 34th St. Maxine Elliott's — 39th St., near Broadway. Metropolis— E. 142d St. and Third Ave. Metropolitan Opera House — Broadway, 40th St. 369 Murray Hill— Lexington Ave., 42d St. New Amsterdam — 42nd, 7th Ave, New York— Broadway, 44th St. Palace — Broadway, 47th St. Punch and Judy— 44th St., east of 7th Ave. Playhouse— 48th St., east of Broadway. Princess — 29th St. and Broadway. Proctor's— (1) 23d St. (2) 58th St. (3) Broadway and 28th St. (4) E. 125th St. Rialto— 42nd and 7th Ave. R I vo 11— Broadway and 49th St. Savoy — 34th St. and Broadway. Schubert— 225 W. 44th St. Strand— Broadway and 48th St. Stuyvesant— West 44th St. Thirty-ninth Street— 39th St., near Broadway. Victoria— Broadway and 42d St Vitagraph— Broadway and 43d St. Wallick's— Broadway, 30th St. Weber's— Broadway, 29th St. West End— 12.5th St., Sth Ave. Winter Garden— 50th St. and Broadway. Moving- Picture Shows are scattered throughout the city in every section, and range in price from 5 cents to 25 cents, though special attractions are as high as $2.00. 370 The Man Who Entertains You in New York — - John McE. Bowman^ Who Runs Six of the Big New York Hotels. Elsewhere in these pages we have made reference to the fact that the great hotels of New York are themselves an object of keen interest to the tourist. Here gather prominent men and women from all parts of civilization. It is a kaleidoscopic view of the world at large; the movement, life and gaiety of things, form a never-ending source of attraction. The modern hotel of the first class is so vastly su- perior to anything even dreamed of in the past that no comparison can be made. The famous Pershing Square group is perhaps the most conspicuous example of the new school in public entertaining and is so readily ac- cepted as the highest type of the new era that a sketch of the young man resiDonsible for this wonderful de- velopment is of more than passing interest. We no longer speak of the head of such a vast enterprise as a hotel man. He is the executive of a huge business organization, employing millions of capital and with a working force exceeding ten thousand persons. The office requires ability of so many different kinds as to make its holder distinguished even among the many Captains of Industry and Finance in a great city like New York. One of the main differences between the old and the new type of big hotel executive is that the modern host lias practically ceased to be a host at all. Unlike the late George C. Boldt, whose personality was the corner stone of the Waldorf-Astoria, and who ^vas a familiar figure in the lobby, John McE. Bowman takes extreme measures to avoid the public rooms of any of his hotels. Bowman operates six great New York hotels — the Biltmore, the Commodore, the Manhattan, .■^71 the Belmont^ the Murray Hill, and the Ansonia. He also controls two great resort hotels, the Belleview, at Belleair, Florida, and the Griswold, at New London, Con- necticut, and the Westchester-Biltmore Country Club at Rye, N. Y. His recent jDurchase of the Sevilla, at Havana, is his first excursion into foreign fields but Is not likely to be his last. Though only forty-three years old, his is probably the most responsible hotel job in the world. You might stay at the Hotel Biltmore in New York for a year without ever catching a glimpse of Bowman. Rarely does he ever set foot in the lobby. If he wishes to go from his office, on a balcony floor of the hotel, to a room opposite, he is likely to take an elevator to the basement, and then come up again on the other side, like a prairie dog. Indeed you might have difficulty in seeing Bowman even if you went to his office; for he finds that, with six New York hotels to manage, it is essential to practice rigid conservation of his time, and frequently he is in- accessible except by appointment. This is not because Bowman doesn't enjoy meeting people — for at heart he is a rollicking, sociable boy — but because he believes that he can make the seven thousand guests in his hotels more comfortable by devot- ing his energies to work of a purely executive sort. Bowman knows by experience that a journey of only one hundred feet through the Biltmore lobby requires at least half an hour ! Somebody among the guests recog- nizes him as the manager and stops him to ask a question. By the time he has finished with that guest, another one is waiting for him with other questions or requests. And all the while Bowman has something in his own mind that he is extremely anxious to dispose of. Consequently, because he is in a hurry to be on his way, he is not at the moment quite the ideal person to extend hospitality and to pat on the back the guest within his doors. Moreover, the interruption interferes with his train of thought and makes him less competent for the moment to handle the executive task on which he has set out. Bowman, therefore, delegates the genial host function to assistant managers, whom he pays well for being cour- teous talkers, good hand-shakers, and discreet arbiters of guests' minor difficulties. "They handle the guests far better than I can," ex- plains Bowman, "for they have nothing else on their minds. In order to have plenty of patience and poise in liandling the public, a man should be free from finan- cial and organization worries. For that reason, I aim to see to it that our assistant managers, who have most of the actual handling of the public, do not have to concern themselves about anything else." There you have the theory on which the directing head of this biggest hotel enterprise remains personally an invisible force in the background. Because he is not often seen about the premises, a guest might receive the impression that Bowman is not on the job. And that brings us to another Bowman theory — that he can, in a sense, be on the job more by being on it less. That sounds paradoxical, but here is the idea: He believes in a short, intensive day for an executive, rather than a long, dilly-dallying day. Sometimes Bowman works six or seven hours and then dashes up to his farm in Westchester County until the next morning. And he believes he accomplishes vastly more by this system than if he were at his desk, with precision and regularity, the same number of hours each day. He gets a tremendous amount of work done, because, by virtue of his frequent hours of recreation, he comes Z7Z to his work fresh, full of enthusiasm and physical en- ergy. He eats and sleeps when he feels most like it, and he works somewhat the same way. That is, when he feels particularly energetic he may work without cessation from early morn until late at night, without even going out for a meal. But he doesn't plan to do that every day, for he does not regard his job as an endurance test. Moreover, Bowman finds that much of the really im- portant work of an executive can be done better away from one's office than in it. He can think out a problem better, oftentimes, while chopping down a tree at his farm than while seated at his desk. Bowman, of course, has a lot of energy and initiative and a knack at making capital of previous experience, else his career would not be such a record of proceeding, mainly upward. Only a comparatively few years ago he was connected with Durland's Riding Academy. His love for horses still clings to him, and with Mr. Vander- bilt he now runs the Annual Horse Show in New York, but the story of his being a truck man is unfortunately not true. It made a picturesque background. Bowman's first hotel job was at a little resort in the Adirondacks, when he was only nineteen years old. Be- cause of the short season there, he desired a permanent place at some good hotel in New York City. A wealthy man gave him a letter of introduction to the manager of what was then one of the best hotels in New York, a place that Bowman had thought a suitable field for his talents after seeing a picture of it in a little booklet. With this letter of introduction in his pocket, and the assurance of his acquaintance that it would indubitably land him some kind of position in the big hotel. Bowman burned his bridges behind him and came to New York to make his fortune. He mailed the letter of introduc- tion to the hotel manager, and requested permission to 374 call. But he got no response. He wrote again and asked for the return of his letter of introduction. Even then he got no reply, and he formed a strong opinion about the character of the man who had exhibited what seemed to him such gross and needless discourtesy. Years later Bowman became president and directing manager of the company that took over that same hotel, and his first official act was to discharge the manager who had failed to answer his letter. He did not dis- charge him to" vent personal spleen, but because he thought the man lacked that sense of courtesy and con- sideration which should be among the qualifications of a successful manager. Having failed to get the hotel job he sought in New York, Bowman had to do whatever work he could find. Frequently he was obliged to be so economical that each meal was a genuine problem. He found that the food in the cheaper uptown restaurants was of such a light, frivolous nature that it failed to stick to his ribs. Con- sequently, it was not unusual for him to walk from up- town New York clear down to the lower end of the Bowery in order to find food that was both substantial and cheap. He has distinct recollections of the satis- fying qualities of the beef stew that was available at one place for the sum of ten cents. To-day Bowman is mak- ing capital of the knowledge he gained as to food values in those difficult days. Incidentally, right in this connection. Bowman thinks that there might be less complaint over the high cost of food if people made the same effort that he made, to locate good food at reasonable prices. "The truth is that, with a proper system of distribu- tion, high prices in hotels really ought to make for cheaper prices in the less pretentious places. I have in mind particularly the item of meats. The more the dealer can get for the choicest cuts of meat, the more 375 cheaplj^ he should be able to sell what is left. Hence high prices in hotels for the choicest cuts of meat should have a tendency to reduce the cost to the consumer of the slightly less desirable cuts, in the cheaper restau- rants. However, in practice it does not always work out in just that way.'* After he had knocked about New York in various jobs, Bowman was more convinced than ever that hotel work was the only line in which he could permanently be satisfied. He determined that he would work not only in a hotel, but in one particular hotel, which he had selected as a desirable place to learn the business on a high-grade basis. The hotel he had in mind was the Holland House, famous for its cuisine and for being the first modern hotel in the United States to adopt the European plan of serving only a la carte meals. Bowman did succeed in making the acquaintance of the proprietor of this estab- lishment, one Gustav Baumann, and agreed to be a bright young willing worker if Baumann would employ him. Later on, he became Baumann's secretary. Baumann headed a company that put up the Hotel Biltmore and Bowman was to be its manager. A few months after the hotel was ready for occupancy, Baumann died. In a short time Bowman had so thoroughly convinced the board of directors of his ability, that he not only was permanently retained as manager but was made president of the company. Then he branched out, and he has now bought four other hotels, besides building the new Hotel Commodore. Thus, Bowman, who only a few years ago came to New York to hunt a job, finds himself at the topmost place among hotel operators. He must satisfy the daily wants and whims not only of seven thousand guests but also of seven thousand employees — for in a big modern hotel there is, on the average, an employee for every guest. 376 OUR SISTER BOROUGHS The Boroughs of Brooklyn, Bronx^ Queens AND Richmond T^HIS is the second Borough in importance of the Boroughs that make up Greater New York, and is said now to slightly exceed Manhattan in the actual number of residents. It has certainly grown tremen- dously in the last year or two and has a larger physical area. It is essentially a city of homes. Most of its people have business in New York. It is connected by four bridges and three subway tunnels, to which more will soon be added. Greenwood Cemetery in Brooklyn was at one time a great mecca of tourists to New York. So much so, that Brooklyn was at one time described as "lying between Pleasure and the Grave." It is, nevertheless, one of the most beautiful Cities of the Dead in the world. Public taste has changed of late years and Greenwood has to a certain extent lost its attraction to visitors. Yet one will never regret an hour or two spent in this God's Acre. Many noted men and women are buried here, and the beauty of its monuments, its shaded paths, its atmosphere of profound peace, yields a restful sensation that is long remembered. If time permits, pay a visit to this old hallowed spot. It is something you will never regret. Brooklyn is as different from New York as day is from night. It thinks differently, lives differently, acts differ- ently. Marshall Wilder became rich through his famous bon-mot : that the subways were built so that a New York man could go to Brooklyn without being seen. It is a city of churches, as well as of homes, and has a strong religious life. It cannot seem to outgrow its village origin. It has, however, a rare intellectual life. People from abroad and our own people from other states speak of Brooklyn as a beautiful city. It often perplexes the Brooklynite to know what this terra means. Evidently it is not meant in the sense that a statue is beautiful or even a building, for there are only a few conspicuously fine statutes or buildings in the bor- ough. And yet it is evident to any one who has been in Brooklyn even for a short time that the description is true. There is something in the atmosphere that induces the kindly feeling, and perhaps this again is produced by the long streets and avenues of homes, for Brooklyn is preeminently the city of homes. Already the population numbers over two millions and the influx of people is growing greater with every new bridge or tunnel that is built. Happily there is an immense area yet to be filled up, land that is admirably suited for the building of homes and all within easy reach of business centers in Manhattan. Of the five boroughs of Greater New York, Brooklyn has distinctively the flavor of Art and Letters. The trend of the population is easily discerned in the large audiences that attend the lectures given almost every night during eight months of the year at the Brooklyn Institute and elsewhere. A Brooklyn audience, as has often been remarked, is discriminating and exacting. Perhaps no teacher or lecturer embodies the Brooklyn idea more distinctly than our late minister to Holland, 378 Henry Van Dyke, himself a Brooklyn man and a fine scholar. His unafFected manner, his extensive knowl- edge of literature and his mastery of the arts and subtle- ties of humor, represent in actual life the ideals of the Brooklyn mind. On the other hand, the utilitarian side has its votaries, as is shown in the crowded halls of the various institu- tions offering technical instruction, with also such ad- vantages for social recreation as have always character- ized tiiis city. Even without the attractions of splendid theatres and great amusement places, Brooklj'^n contrives to get along in these matters perhaps even better than Tier sister borough of Manhattan. As for the drama, Brooklyn has several dramatic societies which, although entirely composed of amateurs, rival some of New York's best companies and surely furnish amusement and recre- ation far excelling them. These societies have produced some of the best talent in the histronic art. Ada Rehan, who lived in Brooklyn with her mother a great part of her life, was wont to say of them that they were the nurseries of New York's dramatic talent. Music also has its votaries, and the many societies for the cultivation of this art contribute greatly to the pleasure of living in Brooklyn. An orchestra composed entirely of women and led by a woman gives three concerts every year -during the season, and its performances can scarcely he rivalled anywhere. As an art center Brooklyn has achieved distinction and contributed her full share of glory to the country. There are a number of art schools and art clubs in Brooklyn. In one of these clubs, the Two Hour Sketch Club, made up partly of earnest young artists and partly of ambitious amateurs, one of Amer- ica's most virile and famous artists. Frederic Remington, was a member during a part of his student days. He is remembered today by those of his associates who re- Tuain for his strong, daring and progressive methods, 380 and loved for his warm, generous and manly spirit. The Brooklyn Institute of Arts and Sciences is to be credited with much of the impetus that is given to the intellectual life of the city and it undoubtedly supplies also that higher order of amusement which takes the place here of the mammoth movie palaces of other large cities. The Museum is on a par with the finest in New York and the building, which is beautifully situated in Institute Park, on Eastern Parkway, one of Brooklyn's finest boulevards, will vie in size and beauty with any that has been erected for this purpose anywhere. The famous collection of paintings by Tissot, depicting the life of Christ, and the water color paintings by Sargent are alone well worth a visit, but there are many other collections of rare and valuable objects to be seen. Not far from the Museum is the plaza, on which stands the magnificent arch, crowned with the work of Amer- ica's greatest sculptor, MacMonnies, and here also is Park Slope, a residential section containing many of the finest homes in Brooklyn. Directly through Prospect Park from the plaza is the fair and enticing suburb of Flatbush, which has been frequently spoken of as the most beautiful suburb of any in the United States, ex- celling the famous suburbs of old Boston. Perhaps the only thing to criticise is its newness, many of the fine old Dutch houses having disappeared. The America of today, with its merchant princes and its palatial homes, is quite in evidence here, but not, however, to the exclusion of the more modest cottages and dwelliftgs of that class which has made Brooklyn the city of homes. A walk along Ocean Avenue is a delight and may be continued all the way to the ocean. One ©f the old landmarks of Flatbush which still remains and is cher- ished is the old Erasmus Hall, a school of "ye olden time." It is enclosed now by the great buildings of the Erasmus Hall High School, a seat of learning which 381 ranks perhaps first among New York's public schools. The great, massive tower on the principal building makes one think of the old college towns of Europe. Oppo- site Erasmus is the Dutch Reformed Church, the oldest on Long Island. Brooklyn is well provided with colleges and schools — Adelphi College is an old Brooklyn institution, and Brooklyn College, the center of Catholic instruction for the city, is the most recent. Pratt Institute and the Arbuckle Institute are mainly for instruction in tech- nical subjects and have a very large attendance of both sexes. The Polytechnic is for young men and is a pre- paratory school. There are several other seminaries, academies and private schools. On the grounds of the Arbuckle Institution is a fine statute of Henry Ward Beecher as he appeared on the platform. To the query, where is Brooklyn's business district, the answer might well be given there is not any, for there is no stock exchange, no financial district, no curb market, no produce, no cotton, or wool exchange, no newspaper row and no great railway centers. There is, however, a fine shopping district with several establish- ments rivalling the best in Manhattan. From Flatbush Avenue to the Borough Hall on Fulton Street there is 8 succession of fine department stores, and the sidewalks in the neighborhood are crowded from morn till night with a continuous stream of Brooklyn's fair daughters, giving a few moments of their precious time to the prac- tical affairs of life. Further on beyond the Borough Buildings is the old and aristocratic section, which still retains its old time air of exclusiveness, though fast undergoing great changes. Columbia Heights, at all times regarded the ideal residence quarter, is a bluff rising high above the sea level and overlooking the river and the bay. No finer site could be imagined for a residence and the 382 n^ti(; LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 221 711 9 «