GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS y GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO THE PLANTING, CARE AND PROPAGATION OF HOUSE PLANTS, AND TO THE CONSTRUCTION AND MANAGEMENT OF HOTBED, COLDFRAME AND SMALL GREENHOUSE BY F. F. ROCKWELL Author of Home Vegetable Gardening NEW YORK McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY 1912 ct^ V .R7 Copyright, 191 1, 1912, by U McBride, Nast & Co. Published September, 1912 CaA3289l5 FOREWORD There is nothing which adds so much sunshine and cheer to the rooms of a house besieged by winter and all his dreary encampment of snow and ice, as the greenery, color and fragrance of blossom- ing plants. There is no pastime quite so full of pleasure and constant interest as this sort of horti- culture; the rooting of small slips, the repotting and watering and watching, as new growth develops, and buds unfold. Some have the magic gift, that everything they touch will break into blossom; others strive — perhaps too hard — only to gain indifferent results. It is hoped that this book will aid those of the second class to locate past mistakes and progress to future success; and further that it may indicate to those more fortunate ones of the first class the way to more extensive achievements in the work they love. This is not a technical book ; simply an attempt to tell in so plain a way that they cannot be misunder- stood the everyday details of the successful manage- ment of plants in the house and within such small glass structures as may be made, even with limited means and time, a part of the average home. There is another aspect of the case worth consid- FOREWORD ering; so much so in fact, that it is one of the reasons for writing this book. By the use of such modest glass structures as almost everyone can afford not only is the scope of winter gardening enlarged and the work rendered more easy and cer- tain, but the opportunity is given to make this light labor pay for itself. Fresh vegetables out of season are always acceptable and well grown plants find a ready sale among one's flower-loving friends. Cranmere, August ist, 19 12. F. F. R. CONTENTS PART I— PLANTS IN THE HOUSE CHAPTER I II III IV V VI VII VIII IX X XI XII XIII XIV XV XVI XVII XVIII XIX XX Introduction The Proper Conditions: Light, Tem- perature AND Moisture . Soils, Manures and Fertilizers Starting Plants From Seed . Starting Plants From Cuttings Transplanting, Potting and Repot ting • Management of House Plants Flowering Plants Shrubs . Foliage Plants Vines Ferns Palms Cacti Bulbs Veranda Boxes, Window-boxes, Vases AND Hanging Baskets House Plant Insects and Diseases Accessories ;.) PART II— HOME GLASS Its Opportunities . . .; . The Coldframe and the Hotbed PAGE I 6 14 22 29 35 44 51 70 81 90 97 103 no 116 128 132 140 146 149 CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE XXI The Construction of Conservatories AND Small Greenhouses . ... 156 XXII Methods of Heating ...... 167 XXIII Management . 172 XXIV Flowers . 180 XXV Vegetables . 193 XXVI Vegetable and Bedding Plants for Spring 197 Index . . .... . ,., „ . 207 ILLUSTRATIONS A flourishing flower bay Frontispiece FACING PAGE An isolated bay-window conservatory 8 A tiled window-sill garden 9 Preparing flats for the "sub-irrigation" method of water- ing 28 Cuttings ready for sand 2g Geranium cuttings ready for potting 29 Potted cuttings ready for their first shift 40 Striking Rex begonia leaf cuttings 40 "Crocking" in a flower pot 41 Seedlings ready to transplant 48 A flower bay protected with heavy curtains .... 49 Pride of Cincinnati begonia 60 Pansy geranium 61 Primrose (Primula ohconica) 61 The Silk Oak (Grevillea robusta) 72 Otaheite orange 73 Baby rambler rose 80 Araucaria excelsa 81 Screw Pine (Pandanus Veitchii) 88 Rubber plant (Ficus elastica) 89 Vines on an indoor trellis 96 Crested Scott Fern (Nephrolepis exaltata, var. Scholzeli) 97 Propagation of Boston Fern by division 100 A variety of the Fan Palm {Phoenix Roebelenii) . . loi Weddell's Palm loi A pan of forced crocuses 116 Victory gladiolus 117 A second story window-box 128 Iceland poppies and trailing vines in a window-box . . 128 A movable plant table 129 Inside a small greenhouse 148 A small lean-to greenhouse 149 A three-sash coldframe 164 The simplest type of window greenhouse 165 Tomatoes in the greenhouse 196 Cucumbers and lettuce in the greenhouse 197 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS Part One — Plants in the House CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION TO-DAY the garden is in the zenith of its glory. The geraniums and salvias blaze in the autumn sun ; the begonias have grown to a small forest of beautiful foliage and bloom; the heliotropes have become almost little trees, and load the air with their delicate fragrance. To- night — who knows? — grim winter may fling the first fleet-winged detachment of his advance across the land, by every road-side and into every garden- close; and to-morrow there will be but blackening ruins and burned bivouacs where the thousand camps of summer planted their green and purple in the golden haze. And what provision, when that inevitable day of summer's defeat comes, have you made for saving part of the beauty and joy of your garden, of car- rying some rescued plants into the safe stronghold of your house, like minstrels to make merry and cheer the clouded days until the long siege is over, and spring, rejuvenescent, comes to rout the snows ? I do not know which is the more commonly over- 2 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS looked, the importance and fun of keeping the liv- ing-rooms of the house cheerful with plants and flowers in winter, or the certainty and economy with which it may be done if one will use the plain common-sense methods necessary to make plants succeed. Too much care and coddling is just as sure to make growth forlorn and sickly as too much neglect. That may be one reason why one fre- quently sees such healthy looking plants framed in the dismal window of a factory tenement, where the chinks can never be stopped tight and the occu- pants find it hard enough to keep warm, while at the same time it is easy to find leafless and lanky specimens in the super-heated and moistureless air of drawing-rooms. It certainly is true that many modern houses of the better sort do not offer very congenial condi- tions to the healthy growth of plants. It is equally certain that in many cases these conditions may be changed by different management in such way that they would be not only more healthy for plants to live in, but so also for their human occupants. In many other cases there is nothing but lack of in- formation or energy in the way of constructing a place entirely suitable for the growth of plants. To illustrate what I mean, I mention the following instance of how one person made a suitable place in which to grow flowers. Two narrow storm windows, which had been discarded, were fastened INTRODUCTION 3 at right angles to the sides of the dining-room win- dows, and the regular storm sash screwed on to these. Here were the three glass sides of a small conservatory. Half-inch boards made a bottom and roof, the former being supported by brackets to give strength, and the latter put on with two slant- ing side pieces nailed to the top of the upright nar- row sash spoken of, to give the roof a pitch. Top and bottom were covered with old flexible rubber matting which was carried back under the clapboards making a weather-proof, tight joint with the side of the house. Six-inch light wooden shelves on the inside gave a conservatory of considerable capacity. How many houses there are where some such ar- rangement could be made as the result of a few hours' work and thought, and a very small expense. And yet how infrequently one sees anything of the kind. In many instances such a glassed-in window would be all that is needed, sufficient heat being furnished by a radiator under the window within the house. In the case mentioned, how- ever, it was necessary to heat the small gt^een- house. This was done by installing a small gas stove in the cellar, as nearly as possible under the window greenhouse. Over this stove a large tin hood was fitted, with a sliding door in front to facilitate lighting and regulating the stove. From the hood a six-inch pipe, enclosed in a wood casing for insulation, ran through the cellar window 4 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS and up into the floor of the conservatory, ending in a small radiator. These details are given not with the idea that they can be duplicated exactly (although in many instances they might), but to show what a little ingenuity and effort will accomplish in the way of overcoming difficulties. Nor is the reward for such efforts as these re- stricted to the growing of a few more plants. From the actual accomplishments described in the second part of this book, the reader must see that it is en- tirely possible and feasible for one with only aver- age advantages to have during a large part or even all of the year not only flowers which cannot be grown to advantage in the house, but also such vege- tables as lettuce, radishes, tomatoes and cucumbers, and others if desired; and also to give the flower and vegetable gardens such a start as would never be possible otherwise. Do not attempt too much, but do not be content with too little, when only a slight increase in plan- ning and work will bring such a tremendous in- crease in results and happiness. I feel confident that there is not one home out of ten where more thought and more information brought to bear on the things whereof this book treats, would not yield a greater return in actual pleasure than any other equal investment which could be made. Do not be impatient to get to a description of all INTRODUCTION S the results at once. Do not skip over the chapters on dirt and manures and pots and other seemingly uninteresting things, because in a thorough under- standing of these essentials lies the foundation of success. And if a condition of soil, or an operation in handling plants does does not seem clear to you as you read it over, remember that in all probability it will become so v^^hen you actually attempt the work described. Nothing worth while is ever won without a little — and often a great deal — of patient work. And what is more worth while than to keep busy in the constant improvement and beautifying of one's daily surroundings? CHAPTER II THE PROPER CONDITIONS : — LIGHT, TEMPER- ATURE AND MOISTURE AFTER so much advice as to the possi- bility of making conditions right for the ' growing of plants in the house, the inexperi- enced reader will naturally want to know what these conditions are. LIGHT In the first place, almost all plants, whether they flower or not, must have an abundance of light, and many require sunshine, especially during the dull days of winter. Plants without sufficient light never make a normal, healthy growth ; the stems are long, lanky and weak, the foliage has a semi-trans- parent, washed-out look, and the whole plant falls an easy victim to disease or insect enemies. Even plants grown in the full light of a window, as every- one with any experience in managing them knows from observation, will draw toward the glass and become one-sided with the leaves all facing one way. Therefore even with the best of conditions, it is necessary to turn them half about every few days, preferably every time they are watered, in 6 THE PROPER CONDITIONS 7 order that they may maintain an even, shapely growth. As a rule the flowering plants, such as geraniums and heliotropes, require more light and sunshine than those grown for foliage, such as palms, ferns and the decorative leaved begonias. It is almost impossible, during the winter months, to give any of them too much sunlight and where there is any danger of this, as sometimes happens in early fall or late spring, a curtain of the thinnest material will give them ample protection, the necessity being not to exclude the light, but simply to break the direct action of the sun's rays through glass. A great variety of plants may be grown in the ordinary window garden, for which the sunniest and broadest window available should be selected. There are two methods of handling the plants : they may be kept as individual specimens in pots and "dishes " or " pans " (which are nothing more or less than shallow flower pots), or they may be grown together in a plant box, made for the purpose and usually more or less decorative in itself, that will harmonize with and set off the beauty of the plants. The latter method, that of growing in boxes, of- fers two distinct advantages, especially where there is likely to be encountered too high a temperature and consequent dryness in the air. The plants are more easily cared for than they are in pots, which 8 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS rapidly dry out and need frequent changing; and effects in grouping and harmonious decoration may be had which are not readily secured with plants in pots. On the other hand, it is not possible to give such careful attention to individual plants which may require it as when they are grown in pots ; nor can there be so much re-arrangement and change when these are required — and what good house- keeper is not a natural born scene shifter, every once in so often rolling the piano around to the other side of the room, and moving the bookcase or changing the big Boston fern over to the other window, so it can be seen from the dining-room? If the plants are to be kept in pots — and on the whole this will generally be the more satisfactory method — several shelves of light, smooth wood of a convenient width (six to twelve inches) should be firmly placed, by means of the common iron brackets, in each window to be used. It will help, both in keeping the pots in place and in preventing muddy water from dripping down to the floor or table below, if a thin, narrow strip of wood is nailed to each edge of these shelves, extending an inch or two above them. A couple of coats of out- side paint will also add to the looks and to the life of these shelves and further tend to prevent any an- noying drip from draining pots. Such a shelf will be still further improved by being covered an inch or two deep with coarse gravel or fine pebbles. if possible it is well to have the house plants in a place where the moisture and temperature can be regulated for them alone OXJ >, :i rt u r^ I. rf c/^ n '— 03 o; Cu o (\> c 5 o -r. Uh An attractive and efficient lluvver Ijay was made here by water- proofing the floor, building plant shelves and isolating the whole when necessary with the curtains MANAGEMENT OF HOUSE PLANTS 49 is safest to " harden them off " first by leaving them a few nights with the windows wide open or in a sheltered place on the veranda. Those which re- quire partial shade may be kept on the veranda or under a tree. Most of them, however, will do best in the full sun and should, if wanted for use in the house a second season, be kept in their pots. The best way to handle them is to dig out a bed six or eight inches deep (the sod and earth taken out may be used in your dirt heap for next year) and fill it with sifted coal ashes. In this, " plunge," that is, bury the pots up to their rims. If set on the sur- face of the soil it will be next to impossible to keep them sufficiently wet unless they are protected from the direct rays of the sun by an overhead screening of lath nailed close together, or " protecting cloth '* waterproofed. Where many plants are grown for the house such a shed, open on all sides, is some- times made. Care must be taken not to let plants in " plunged " pots root through into the soil. This is prevented by lifting and partly turning the pots every week or so. They will not root through into the coal cinders as rapidly as into soil and better drainage is secured. Watch the soil in the pots, not that in which they are plunged, when deciding about water- ing. For most plants a thorough watering, tops and all, once every afternoon ordinarily will not be too much. 50 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS Plants such as geraniums and heliotrope, which are wanted for blooming in early winter, should be kept rather dry and all buds pinched off. Do not shift them to new pots until two or three weeks be- fore time to take them in. CHAPTER VIII FLOWERING PLANTS THE very important question — " What plants shall be grown in the house ? " — must be left for the individual to answer. In selecting a few to describe somewhat in detail in the first part of this chapter, I do not mean to imply that the others are not as beautiful, or may not, with proper care, be successfully grown in the house. However, most of those described are the more popular — very possibly because as a rule greater success is attained with them. The same is true of the treatment of the other groups — shrubs, foliage plants, palms, ferns, vines, cacti and bulbs, which are classed not upon a strict botanical basis but with reference to their general habits and requirements, my sole object in this book being to make the proper cultural directions as defi- nite and clear as possible. Begonias I think if I were restricted to the use of one class of plants for beautifying my home in winter I should without hesitation choose the begonias. 51 52 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS No other plants so combine decorative effect, beauty of form and flower, continuity of bloom and gen- eral ease of culture. There are three types: the flowering fibrous- rooted begonias, the decorative leaved begonias and the tuberous-rooted, with their abundant and gor- geous flowers and beautiful foliage. (These latter are described more fully in Chapter XV on Bulbs.) Begonias are rather difficult to raise from seed and the best way to get them is to go to some good florist and select a few specimens; after that you can easily keep supplied by cuttings (see page 29). The large fancy-leaved begonias (Rex be- gonias) are increased by " leaf-cuttings." Take an old leaf and cut it into triangular pieces, about three inches each way and with a part of one of the thick main ribs at one corner of each piece; this is the corner to put into the sand. These — seven or eight of which can be made from one leaf — should be inserted about an inch into the sand of the cut- ting box or saucer, and treated as ordinary cuttings. The new growth will come up from the rib. (Il- lustration facing page 40). Some of the foliage be- gonias have long, thick stems, or " rhizomes " grow- ing just above the soil ; from these the leaves grow. Propagate by cutting the rhizome into pieces about two inches long and covering in the rooting medium. The most satisfactory way to select your be- FLOWERING PLANTS 53 gonias is to see them actually growing at the flo- rist's. In case selection cannot be made, thus, how- ever, the following brief descriptions may be help- ful. The begonia with the most showy flowers is the "coral" begonia — (in catalogues B. macu- lata, var. Corallina). The flowers, which grow in large clusters, reach half an inch across. Begonias rubra, Alba, Vernon, nitlda and N, alba, Luminosa, Sandersoni and semperilorens, gi- gantea rosea, are all good sorts. For foliage. Begonia metallica, is the most popu- lar. The flowers while not conspicuous are very pretty. B. Thurstoni, albo-picta, and argenteo- giittata are also very attractive, the two latter hav- ing small silvery spots upon the leaves. Of the large leaved Rex begonias new varieties are; frequently introduced. They are seldom im- provements over the old favorites, Philadelphus, Silver Queen, Fire King, Mrs. Rivers and others. One of the most glorious of all flower sights is a plant of begonia Gloire de Lorraine in full bloom. It makes a graceful hanging mass of the most beautiful pink flowers. I cannot, however, con- scientiously recommend it as a house plant. The best way is to get a plant, say in October, which is just about to bloom. Even if you lose it after it is through blooming — they continue in flower for several months — it will have been well worth the expense. But it is not necessary to lose it. When 54 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS through flowering give it less water and keep in a cool light place. During summer keep it as cool as possible, on the veranda, or plunged in the shade of a tree. About September rapid growth will be made and it may gradually be given full sunlight. Gloire Cincinnati is a splendid begonia of very recent introduction and it is claimed to be much hardier than Gloire de Lorraine, but whether it will prove satisfactory as a house plant I cannot say. There are many other beautiful kinds of begonias besides the few described above. If you have room, by all means try some of them. As to soil, add about one-third of thoroughly pul- verized leaf-mould to the potting soil described on page 15, if you would give them the best condi- tions. In watering keep them if anything a little on the '' dry side." They like plenty of light but will do best if kept out of the direct rays of the sun. ^Fuchsia. There is perhaps no plant which more perfectly combines gracefulness and beauty of color than a well grown fuchsia in full bloom. Well-grown in this case does not simply mean that it should have been given the proper care as regards food and temperature. The fuchsia is naturally a somewhat trailing and very brittle-wooded plant. It needs support and the problem is to give it this support FLOWERING PLANTS 55 and at the same time not destroy its natural grace- fulness of form, as is usually done when it is tied up stiffly to a wooden stake. If tied carefully to an inconspicuous green stake by means of green twine this may be accomplished. A better w^ay will be to use one of the stakes described on page 144. Fuchsias are shade plants. The full direct sun- light is likely to prove fatal to their existence. In winter they may be kept in an east or north win- dow, or on the inside of other plants in a south win- dow. If they are wanted to bloom early in the fall keep well pinched back and disbudded during the summer which is the natural blooming season for all the best varieties. For summer blooming, dry off gradually in the fall and keep during the win- ter — until February or March — in a frost-proof room or cellar. After they have been brought into the light, repot and water and new growth will start. Prune back the old branches severely, as the next crop of flowers will be borne on the new w^ood. This is also a good time to start cuttings for a new supply of plants. Old plants — tw^o or three years — will, however, give a far greater abundance of flowers. The most serious enemy of the fuchsia indoors is the pernicious red spider. For details of the proper reception to be given him see page 134. The varieties of the fuchsia, in both single and double flowers, are many. Among popular sorts 56 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS are Elm City, Black Prince, speciosa, Phenomenal. Florists' catalogues list many others, new and for the most part well worth trying. Geraniums. The geranium has been for years, and is likely to remain, the most popular flowering plant of all, whether for use in summer flower beds or for the winter window garden. To some people this wide popularity renders it less desirable, but with those who grow plants for their intrinsic beauty and not because they may or may not be in vogue the gera- nium with its healthy vitality, its attractive foliage and its simply marvelous range of color and deli- cate shadings will always be a favorite. I even venture to predict more ; to prophesy that it is going to be used, as one seldom sees it now, as a cut flower for decorative purposes. I have grown some of the newer varieties with stems from twelve to eighteen inches long, supporting enormous trusses of dull red or the most delicate pink and keeping fresh in vases for days at a time. I find that very few peo- ple, even old flower lovers, have any conception of the improvement and variety which the last few years have brought, especially in the wonderful new creations coming from the hands of the French hy- bridizers. The latest news is that a German plant- breeder has produced the first of a new race of Pelargoniums (Pansy or Lady Washington gera- FLOWERING PLANTS 57 niums) that continues to bloom as long as any of our ordinary bedding sorts. It has not yet been offered in this country, but doubtless soon will be, and it will be an acquisition indeed. The culture of the geranium is simple. For its use as a house plant there are just two things to keep in mind ; first give it a soil which is a little on the heavy side ; that is, use three parts of good heavy loam, one of manure and one of sand; secondly do not over-water. Keep it on the " dry side " — (see page 45). To have geraniums blooming in the house all winter prepare plants in two ways, as follows: First, in May or June pot up a number of old plants. Cut back quite severely, leaving a skeleton work of old wood, well branched, from which the new flowering wood will grow. Keep plunged and turned during the summer and take off every bud until three or four weeks before you are ready to take the plants inside. Secondly, in March or April, start some new plants from cuttings and grow these, with frequent shifts, until they fill six- or seven-inch pots, but keep them pinched back to induce a branching growth, and disbudded, until about the end of December. These will come into bloom after the old plants. The best time for propagating the general sup- ply of geraniums is from September 15th to the end of October. Cuttings should be taken from wood 53 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS that is as firm and ripe as possible, while still yield- ing to the '' snapping test " (see page 30). In all stages of growth the geranium is remarkably free from any insect or disease. The varieties of geraniums now run into the hundreds — a wonderful collection. I shall name but a few, all of which I know from my own ex- perience in selling several thousand every spring, are sure to be well-liked and good bloomers. Geranium Varieties S. A. Nutt leads them all. It is the richest, darkest crimson — usually ordered as " the dark- est red." It is a great bloomer, but one word of caution where you grow your own plants: — You must keep it cut back and make it branch, otherwise it will surely grow up tall and spindling. E. H. Trego is the most brilliant of the reds that I have grown. Marquis de Castellane is the richest of the reds — a dull, even, glowing color with what artists term " warmth " and " depth.'* The trusses are immense and the stems long, stiff and erect. It is the best geranium for massing in bouquets that I know. Beaute Potevine is the richest, most glorious of the salmon pinks — perhaps the most popular of all the geraniums as a pot plant for the house. It is a sturdy grower and a wonderful bloomer. Dorothy Perkins is a strong growing bright pink. FLOWERING PLANTS 59 with an almost white center. Very attractive. Roseleur is one of the most lovely delicate pinks. Mme. Recamier, perhaps the best of the double whites, making a very compact, sturdy plant. Silver-leafed Nutt, very recently introduced, is, I believe, destined to be one of the most popular of all geraniums. It has the rich flowers of S. A. Nutt and leaves of a beautiful dull, light green, bordered with silver white. I am chary of novelties, and got my first plants last spring with the expectation of being disappointed. So far it has proved a great acquisition. New-life is another new sort which has won great popularity, the center of the flowers being white in contrast to the red of the outer petals. This is one of a new type of geranium having two more or less distinct colors in each flower. An- other new type is the " Cactus " section, with petals narrower and recurved. In fact, the geranium seems to have by no means reached its full develop- ment. Foliage Geraniums. The foremost of these is Mme. Salleroi (Silver-leaf geranium). It is un- equaled as a border and for mingling with other plants in the edge of boxes and vases. Well grown specimens make beautiful single pot plants. Mrs. Pollock and Mountain of Snow are other good varieties. Sweet Scented Geranium. This type has two 6o GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS valuable uses ; their delicious fragrance and also the beauty and long keeping quality of the leaves when used in bouquets or to furnish green with geranium blossoms. Rose and Lemon (or Skeleton) are the two old favorites of this type. The Mint geranium, with a broad, large leaf of a beautiful soft green, and thick velvety texture, should be better known. All three must be kept well cut back, as they like to grow long and scraggly. The ivy-leafed geraniums have not yet come into their own. To me they are the most beautiful of all. The leaves are like ivy leaves, only thicker and more glossy. The flowers, which are freely borne, contain some of the most beautiful and deli- cate shades and markings of any flowers, and the vines are exceedingly graceful in habit when given a place where they can spread out or hang down. Like the common or Zonal geranium, the ivy-leafed section has within the last few years been greatly improved. There is space here to mention but one variety (L'Elegantea), whose variegated white and green foliage, in addition to its lovely flowers, gives it a wonderful charm. The Pelargoniums (Pansy Geraniums) — This section contains the most wonderful flowers of all the geraniums. Imagine, if you can, a rather graceful shrub with attractive foliage, eighteen inches or so high and broad, covered with loose clusters of pansies in the most brilliant and har- A "^ -^ 5 r'U X ^ o 3^ ^ >. ^ O u E o ° FLOWERING PLANTS 6i monious contrasts of color, and the most delicate blendings of rare shades, such as snow white and lilac. Unfortunately, these marvelous blossoms re- main but a few weeks at most, and then there is a year's care and waiting. As with the fantastic cacti, all their blossoming energy and beauty seems to be concentrated into one brief but glorious effort. It certainly is to be hoped that the new strain, men- tioned on a former page, will successfully be de- veloped. Pelargoniums are propagated by cuttings, and cared for as the ordinary geraniums, except that they should be kept very cold and dry during their winter resting spell. Cut back after bloom- ing. Heliotrope The heliotrope has long been the queen of all flowers grown for fragrance. It is grown readily from either seeds or cuttings; the lat- ter generally rooted in the spring. For bloom- ing in winter, start young plants in February, or cut back old ones after flowering, and keep growing but pinched back and disbudded, in partial shade during the summer. There are several varieties, from dark purple to very light and white. Lemoine's hybrids have the largest flowers, but are not so fragrant as some of the smaller sorts. By pinching off the side shoots and training to a single main stalk, the plants may be grown as for- 62 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS mal standards, with the flowering branches several feet from the pot, hke the head of a tree. For certain uses they are appropriate, but I think not nearly as beautiful as when well trimmed to shape and grown in the ordinary way. The heliotrope objects to any sudden change, whether of temperature, watering or soil, and will readily turn brown and drop all its leaves. Giving it proper care and cutting back, however, will quickly bring it into good humor again. Petunia The petunia is one of the most easily grown and generous bloomers of all house plants. It is, however, a little coarse and some people object to its heavy odor. The flowers are both single and double, each having its advocates. Both have been vastly improved within the last few years. Cer- tain it is that some of the new ruffled giant singles are remarkably beautiful, even as individual flowers ; and the new fringed doubles, which come in agree- able shades of pink, variegated to pure white (in- stead of that harsh magenta which characterized the older style) produce beautiful mass effects with their quantities of bloom. They are grown either from seed or cuttings, the latter frequently blooming in the cutting box, if allowed to. In raising seedlings, be sure to save all the slowest growing and delicate looking plants. FLOWERING PLANTS 63 as they are fairly sure to give some of the best flow- ers, the worthless singles growing strong and rank from the start. Plants growing outdoors during the summer may be cut back, potted up and started into new growth. The singles bloom more freely than the doubles, especially indoors. After blooming, cut the plants back to within a few inches of the root, repot or give liquid manure and a new growth will be sent up, and soon be in blossom again. Primroses Of the deservedly popular primrose there are two types, the Chinese primrose (Pri- mula Sinensis) and Primula obconica. Both are favorites, because of their simple beauty and the remarkable freedom and constancy with which they bloom. Another advantage is that they do not require direct sunlight. Primroses need no particular care. The soil may have a little extra leaf-mould and should slope toward the edges of the pot, to prevent the possibility of any water collecting at the crown of the plant, which must be left well above the soil when potting. The easiest way to get plants is to buy small ones from the florist every spring. They may be raised from seed successfully, however, if one wall take care to give them a shaded, cool location during the hot summer months, such as a cold frame cov- ered with protecting cloth, or any light material 64 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS that will freely admit air. From seed sown in Feb- ruary or March they should be ready to bloom by the following Christmas. It does not pay to keep the plants over for a second season. There are numerous varieties. One very small sort, P. Forbesi — sometimes caled Baby Primrose — is exceedingly floriferous. Several plants of this sort put together in a large pan make a most beauti- ful sight, and will do well as a decoration for a cen- ter table. Until recently P. obconica was inferior in size of flower to the Chinese primrose, but the newer strains, under the name P. grandiflora Hmhriata, or Giant Fringed, are quite wonderful. Some of the individual flowers are over an inch and a quarter across, and range from pure white to deep rose. If you cannot obtain other plants of this type from your florist they will well repay the trouble of start- ing from seed. Snapdragon I feel somewhat doubtful about giving this comparatively little known flower a place among the especially recommended plants. Not on the basis of my own experience with it, but because in the several books in my possession which deal with house plants, I do not find it mentioned. There certainly can be no question that the long spikes of flowers in pure white, light and dark reds, FLOWERING PLANTS 65 deep wines and clear yellows, with combinations of two or more of these in many cases, are among our most beautiful flowers. They stay in blossom a long time, each stalk opening out slowly from the bottom to the top of the spike, like a gladiolus. They seem, in my own experience at least, to stand almost any amount of abuse ; this spring several old plants that I had abandoned to their fate insisted on coming to life again and trying to vie with their younger progeny in flowering. Snapdragons are easily raised from seed, or prop- agated by cuttings. For winter blooming sow the former in March or April, grow on in a cool place and keep pinched back to make bushy plants. If you have limited room, let one stalk blossom on each plant, so that you can avoid selecting dupli- cates. Cuttings may be taken at any time when the weather is not too hot. Take the tops of flowering shoots which have not yet matured so far as to be- come hollow. The varieties have been greatly improved, that now sold as Giant-flowered Hybrids being the best- There is also a dwarf type and of still later intro- duction a double white. This will undoubtedly break into the other colors and give us a valuable new race. With the directions given for the foregoing, and also on pages 6 to 50, the following brief instruc- tions should be necessary to enable success with the (£ GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS Other flowering plants which are worth trying in the house for winter blooming. OTHER FLOWERING PLANTS Ageratum — Valuable for its bright blue flowers and dwarf growth, going in well with other plants. There is also a white variety. Make cuttings in August, or cut back and pot up old plants. Alyssum — Good with other plants to produce a light bouquet-like effect. White. Fall and dwarf varieties. Seed or cuttings. Balsam — Beautiful colors. Take up and pot after blooming in garden. Only double sorts worth while. Candytuft — Colors. Good for cut flowers. Seed or cuttings. Cannas — New dwarf hybrids, named varieties have beautiful flowers. Give rich soil, lots of sun and water. Dry off after flowering. Carnation — This beautiful flower is not well adapted for house culture. It may, however, be grown in five-or-six-inch pots, using a heavy soil, keeping in a cool temperature, about forty-five de- grees at night, watering regularly and spraying daily with as much force as possible. For further in- formation about growing the plants, see Part II., page i8i. Carnation Marguerite — These are much better suited for the trials of house culture. While not FLOWERING PLANTS (^i as large, they are in other respects fully as beauti- ful. Take up the best sorts from the flower garden, cut back severely and keep shaded until new growth starts. Chrysanthemum — This is another beautiful flower not well suited to house culture. However, if you have room, — it wall take an eight-, nine- or even ten-inch pot for each plant — and want to go to the trouble, you can have it indoors. For cul- tural directions see Part II, page 185. Daisies, Double English Daisies — The bright lit- tle short-stemmed daisies, seen so frequently in spring (Bellis perennis) are not often used as a house plant, but make a very agreeable surprise. Start from seed in August; transplant to boxes of suitable size, and on the approach of freezing weather cover gradually with leaves and rough man- ure or litter in a sheltered, well drained place. Bring them in as wanted from January on. Daisy, Paris or Marguerite — Beautiful daisy- like flowers, very freely borne, in two colors, pure white and delicate yellow. Root cuttings in spring and keep pinched back for winter flowering. Grow in rather heavy rich soil, with plenty of water. Patience Plant (Impatiens) — This old-fashioned but cheery flowered plant resembles the flowering be- gonias in looks and habit. It grows very rapidly and is one of the most indefatigable bloomers of all plants. Spring cuttings grown on will make good 68 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS flowering plant for winter. Give plenty of water. Lobelia — This favorite little plant bears starry blossoms of one of the most intense blues found any- where in the realm of flowers. Grow^n easily from fall sown seed, or cuttings. Star of Ishmael and Kathreen Mallard are two named varieties recently introduced and great improvements. Maker nia — (Honey-bell) — Of great value for its fragrance. Grow on from summer cuttings. Mignonette — Another flower owing its popular- ity to its fragrance. Start winter plants by sowing in two-inch pots in July or August, several seeds to a pot. As soon as well started, thin to the best plant. Grow on, keeping cool and well pinched back. Give support. There are several newer named varieties that are great improvements over the old type, especially in size of spike. Colossal, Allan's Defiance, Machet, are all fine sorts. Pansy — If wanted for winter blooming, take cut- tings or start from seed, as described for Daisy (Bellis perennis). The seed bed must be kept cool and shaded. Salvia — One of the most brilliant of all flowering plants. For winter make cuttings in August, or take off suckers with roots at base of plant. They like heat. Keep thoroughly sprayed to ward off red spider. Piqueria or Stevia serrata — Another fragrant flower. Root cuttings in January or February and FLOWERING PLANTS 69 grow on for blooming from November to February. Stocks — What I said abut snapdragons on page 64 might well be repeated here. Start from seed in August or September. They are very easily grown. In addition to their beauty — they resem- ble a spray of small roses — is their entrancing fragrance. Only the double sorts are good. There are many fine new sorts. Abundance, a beautiful delicate pink, will be sure to arouse your enthusiasm. Verbena — If any of these old brilliant favorites are wanted, start from cuttings, being sure to use strong new growth which may be induced by spad- ing up and enriching the soil in August, and cutting back the plants. Verbena, Lemon — See page yy. Violets — See Part II (page 183). There is one thing which the beginner cannot be told too often, and which I repeat here, as it has much to do with the success of many of the above plants. Do not fail to pinch back seedlings and cut- tings during their early stages of growth, to induce the formation of stocky, well-branched plants. This must be the foundation of the winter's returns. CHAPTER IX SHRUBS THE shrubs of dwarf habit available for growing inside in winter are numerous and valuable. They include a number of the most attractive plants one may have, and as a rule will stand more hardships in the way of poor light, low temperature and irregular attention than any of the other flowering plants. They differ from the other flowering plants in several ways. They are harder wooded; the rest- ing spell is more marked and they make growth and store up energy for flowering ahead of the blossom- ing season. Their differences in habit of growth naturally in- volve differences in treatment. In the first place, they are harder to propagate; in many cases it is better for the amateur to get plants from the flo- rist than to try to raise them. This is not such a disadvantage as might at first appear, because most of them can be kept for several years, only im- proving with age. The " snapping " test (page 30) will not apply to many of the shrubs when taking cuttings. In 70 SHRUBS 71 this case they are made from the new growth after it becomes firm and well ripened. It should be fresh and plump, and rooting will be made more certain by bottom heat. Often cuttings of hard- wooded plants, such as oleander, are rooted in plain water, in wide-mouthed bottles hung in a warm place in the sun, the water being frequently renewed or kept fresh with a lump or so of charcoal. Many of the shrubs are beautiful for summer blooming on the veranda or in large pots or tubs. These may be kept over winter safely by drying off and keeping in a frost-proof cellar where they will get little light. In this way they will come out again in the spring, just as hardy shrubs do out-of- doors. The earth should not be allowed to get dust dry, but should not be more than slightly moist; very little, and often no, water is required, especially if mulching of some sort is put over the earth in pots or boxes ; but it should not be any material that would harbor rats or mice. The leaves will fall off, but this is not a danger signal, such plants being deciduous in their natural climates. It will be best to keep such plants as are to be stored in the cellar, from the time there is danger of frost until about November first, in an outbuilding or shed, where they will not freeze. This makes the change more gradual and natural. The temperature of the cel- lar should be as near thirty- four to thirty-eight de- grees as possible. About March first will be time 72 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS to start giving most plants so treated heat, light and water again, the latter gradually. The fact that growth is made in advance of the flowering period means that the summer care and feeding of such plants is very important. Plenty of water must be given, and frequent applications of liquid manure or fertilizers, or top dressing. Flowering shrubs that bloom on last season's wood, like hydrangeas, should be pruned just after bloom- ing. Abiitilon — The Flowering Maple (Abutilon) is an old favorite, but well worthy of continued popularity. It is practically ever-blooming, which at once marks it as highly desirable. The pendu- lous flowers are very pretty, coming in shades of pink, white, yellow and dark red. The foliage is also beautiful, especially that of the variegated vari- eties, than which very few plants are more worthy of a place in the window gardener's collection. New plants, which will grow and bloom very rapidly, are propagated by cuttings rooted in the fall or spring. Give the plants when indoors plenty of light. Old plants, for which there is not room in the window garden, may be wintered almost dry in a cool place and allowing the leaves to fall off. The varieties are numerous. Some of the best are Santana, deep red ; Boule de Neige, pure white ; Gold Bell, yellow; Darzvini tesselatum; Souvenir de Bonn and Savitzii (the latter the most popular of Grcz'illca robtista, the Silk Oak, is easily grown and an ex- ceedingly graceful shrub for growing indoors Otaheite orange. Their rest period should be given during November, December and January SHRUBS 73 all variegated) ; Eclipse and vexillarium, trailing in habit. Acalypha — Valuable for its variegated foliage. For use in the house root cuttings in early fall. The old roots, after cutting back, may be kept on the dry side to furnish cuttings in spring for the garden plants. Aralia — Aralia (Fatsia Japonica) and 'A. J. vari- egata, especially the last, are two of the most dec- orative plants one may have. They are not widely known — very likely because they are difficult to propagate. Easily kept. Get from florist. Ardisia — (Ardisia crenulata) is the best red ber- ried plant for the house. It is a dwarf, with very beautiful dark green foliage. While kept healthy it will be laden constantly with its attractive clusters of berries, one crop lasting over the next. Seed- lings make the best plants, and are readily grown. Sow in January to April, and plants will flower within a year and thereafter be perpetually deco- rated. Old plants can be topped (see page 86) and make fine specimens. By all means give the ardisia a place in your collection. Aucuba — The Gold Dust Plant : one of the beauti- ful shrubs and especially valuable for decoration because doing well in such shaded positions as inner rooms, or by doorways. Strong tip cuttings — six to ten inches — can be rooted readily in the fall. Give a soil on the heavy side. 74 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS Azalea — The azalea is the most beautiful flowering shrub — if not the most beautiful of all winter flowering plants. With proper treatment an azalea should do service for several years, becoming more splendid each season. You will probably get your plant when it is in full bloom. At this time, and during the whole growing season, it requires abundant water. The best way to make sure of giving it a thorough one, is to stand it for half an hour in a pail of water. Keep it in a rather cool place, say forty-five at night, and the flowering season, which should last several weeks, will be prolonged. With the azaleas you must do the work for next year's success as soon as the flowering season is over. After repotting, keep in a temperature of fifty to fifty-five degrees at night. There are three types of azalea suitable for win- ter blooming, the Indian, Ghent and Mollis, of each of which there are several kinds. The Indian type has the advantage of not blooming without its leaves, as the others do. The best way to select the varieties wanted is to purchase when in bloom. It will not pay the amateur to attempt propagation. Bouvardia — Pink, white or red flowers, sweet scented. Propagated by root cuttings, but as the plants are good for a number of years, the best way is to get them from the florist. Old plants may be divided, small enough to go into number three SHRUBS 75 pots. Give either cuttings or divisions about sixty degrees at night after potting, which should be in spring, until put outdoors. Keep pinched to shape. Then bloom from late fall to February. Brozvallia — A very attractive flowering shrub, easily grown in a cool room, with plenty of sun- light. Sow seeds in 4-inch pots in August, thinning to three or four. Repot to 6 inches. Cuttings make good plants. Best grown as standards. B. data is especially valuable because of its deep blue flowers. B. Jamesonii is orange. Roezlii and Grandiflora, blue or white. Daphne — D. odora is easily grown and very fra- grant. As ornamental as orange or lemon and very free flowering. Give almost no water in winter, or store in cellar. Plants good for many years. Genista — A beautiful evergreen shrub, bearing freely in spring clusters of pea-shaped yellow flowers, richly fragrant. Cut back after flowering, and in fall put in a cold room, forty degrees, or a frame, giving several weeks rest. Cuttings may be rooted readily in spring, when pruning the plants. Grevillea robitsta — The Silk Oak is grown with the greatest ease and makes an extremely graceful, beautiful plant, either by itself or as a center for fern dishes, etc. Sow in March and grow on with frequent shifts. Hibiscus — One of the most brilliant flowering ^(i GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS shrubs outside of the azaleas, with single and double flowers. Give a warm, sunny spot. Large plants can be stored in the cellar. Cuttings in spring or summer will furnish new plants. Hydrangea — This is another popular flowering shrub, often had in bloom inside in the spring, but personally I do not consider it suited for such use. The flowers are rather coarse to bear close inspec- tion, such as a house plant must be subject to: they are far more effective in masses out-of-doors or used as semi- formal decorations about paths or stoops, for which purpose they are unsurpassed. If you care to have them bloom indoors, get small plants from the florist, or start cuttings of new growth in spring, taking shoots which do not have buds. After flowering, cut back each branch and grow on, in a cool airy place with slight protection from noonday sun. Take into the house before frost, and gradually dry off for a rest of six weeks or more in a cold room. Then start into growth. Plants for flowering early in the spring outdoors should be treated in the same way during summer, and wintered in the cellar, as directed above. Take up to the light any time after first of March in the spring, but be careful to harden off before setting outside. The varieties of the hydrangea are several, some being entirely hardy farther north than New York, but the sorts best for house and tub culture are not. SHRUBS 77 Most of them will come through some winters, but it doesn't pay to take the chance. H. Hortensia Japonica is the blue flowering vari- ety; the color will depend much, however, upon the soil. To make sure of the color, dissolve one pound of alum in two quarts of ammonia, dilute with twenty gallons water and use as a liquid fertilizer. Thomas Hogg is a beautiful pure white, quite hardy. H. h. Otaksa, pink, is one of the most popular. Lanfana — Easily grown flowering shrub, trailing in habit, with small flower clusters of white, pink, red, yellow or orange. New dwarf varieties best for pot culture. Cuttings root easily. I have never cared for this plant, and its odor is not pleasant to most people. Lemon — The best lemon for house culture is the Ponderosa, or American Wonder, of comparatively recent introduction. Most florists now have it. Easily grown and a very attractive plant. The fruit is good to use. Lemon Verbena '(Aloysia citriodora) — Many people consider this the most delightfully fragrant plant grown. Certainly no window garden should be without it. Early in September cut back old plants, if in the garden, and pot up. New growth will quickly be made. Plants kept in pots should be rested in early winter by keeping dry and cool. Spring cuttings root easily. Oleander — A beautiful old-time favorite, with 78 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS fragrant blossoms of red, pink, yellow or white. Give a very rich soil and plenty of water when growing. Rest after flowering. Cuttings are rather hard, but will root with care. Orange — There are several sorts suited to house culture, and they should be more frequently tried, as a well grown plant will have flowers, green fruit and attractive golden oranges almost all the time — to say nothing of its foliage beauty and delightful fragrance. Their rest period should be given dur- ing November, December and January. Otaheite Orange is the one most commonly grown for house culture, and while the fruit is of no use for eating, it has the more valuable advan- tage of remaining on the tree (which is eighteen to twenty-four inches high) for months. Satsuma is another good sort. Kumquat (Citrus Japonica) is also very attractive. Reinwardtia (^known usually as Linum trigynum) — Another attractive flowering shrub, with light or bright yellow flowers. Cuttings will root with bot- tom heat in April. L. tetragymtm is a companion variety. Roses — Those who will take the proper pains can grow roses successfully in the house; but as a gen- eral rule satisfactory results are not obtained. The first essential to success is the use of the right varieties and those only. The second is a moist atmosphere ; the third is cleanliness, — insect enemies SHRUBS 79 must be kept off. For soils, growing in summer, etc., see Part II, page i88. The best varieties for house culture are the Crim- son Baby Rambler (Mme. Norbert Levavasseur), Pink Baby Rambler (Anchen Muller), Crimson Rambler, Clothilde Soupert, Agrippina, Hermosa, Safrano, Maman Cochet, White Maman Cochet and La France. If the plants are set in a window-box (see page 9) about one foot apart, they will be more easily cared for than in pots. They may be treated in two ways, (i) After blooming, cut away most of the old growth and enforce rest during the summer. Start again in October and grow on in the house. (2) Grow on through the summer and dry off in the fall as the leaves drop. Store in a cold place (a little freezing wnll not hurt) until about January first. Then prune back severely — about half — and bring into warmth and water. A combination of the two methods will give a long flowering sea- son. Swainsona — A shrub of vine-like habit, bearing flowers, white and light pink, which greatly resem- ble sweet peas. The foliage is unusual and very pretty. It should be trained up to stakes or other supports and cut back quite severely after flowering. Sweet Olive (Olea fragrans) — This is still an- other fragrant flowering shrub and one of the very easiest to grow. 8o GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS The house shrubs, having harder stems and tougher leaves than other classes of plants, will stand many hardships that to the latter v^ould prove fatal. They are, however, particularly susceptible to at- tacks of red spider and scale. Keep your shrubs clean. If you do not, in spite of their seeming immunity to harm, you will have no success with them. Syringing, showering, washing, spraying with insecticides, even giving a next-to-freezing rest, — all the remedies mentioned in Chapter XVII on Insects and Diseases — may at times have to be re- sorted to. But, at whatever trouble, if you want them at all, keep your shrubs clean. Baby ra - , Tit'*"- * |L^ aby rambler rose. Few varieties of rose will stand the dry air and dust that oppress most house plants Araucoria cxccha. Give little water in winter and a cool, even temperature CHAPTER X FOLIAGE PLANTS THE foliage plants depend very largely for their beauty upon making a rapid, un- checked growth and being given plenty of sunlight. In many of those having multi-colored and variegated leaves, the markings under unfav- orable conditions of growth become inconspicuous and the value of the plant is entirely lost. There- fore, where the proper conditions cannot be given, it will be far wiser to devote your space to plants more suited to house culture. Aspidistra, araucaria, Pandanus and the rubber plant are exceptions; two of them being remark- able for their hardihood under neglect and igno- rnce. While many of the foliage plants will live under almost any conditions, it must be remem- bered, however, that the better care they receive the more beautiful they will be. Achyranthes — Achyranthes are still popular as bedding plants, as they furnish good coloring. They may be used as house plants also, but in my opinion are a little coarse. Take cuttings in Aug- ust for new plants and keep on the warm side and rather dry in winter. 8i 82 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS Alternanthera — These little plants are unique and brilliant, and a few will be worth having in any collection. They make dense, shrubby minia- ture bushes a few inches high, very attractively col- ored. Take cuttings in August; give rich soil, on the sandy side, plenty of light and heat. A. versicolor has leaves bearing a happy contrast of pink, crimson and bronzy-green. Tricolor is dark green, rose and orange. There are numerous other attractive varieties. Anthericiim (A. variegattmi) — The foliage is shaped like a broad blade of grass and very prettily bordered with white. Of the easiest culture, doing well in the shade. Propagated by division. A. medio-picta is another variety, often considered more attractive than the above. Araucaria — The several araucarias should be much more widely known than they are. Their beauty has made them popular as Christmas gifts, but most of the fine specimens which leave the flor- ists during the holiday season find their end, after a few weeks in a gas-tainted, superheated atmosphere, with probably several times the amount of water required given at the roots, in the ash barrel. They are, when one knows something of their habits of growth, very easily cared for. Little water in win- ter, and a cool even temperature, are its simple re- quirements. The araucaria is, I think, the most beautiful of FOLIAGE PLANTS 83 all formal decorative plants. Its dignity, simplicity and beautiful plumelike foliage place it in a class of its own. The branches leave the main stem at reg- ular intervals, in whorls of five, and the foliage is a clean soft green, lighter at the tips. Propagated by cuttings from leading shoots, not side shoots. The two varieties ordinarily used are A. excclsa glanca and A. e. robusta. Some time ago I saw a specimen of a new variety, not yet put on the market, and the name of which I have forgotten. (I think it was stellata) The outer half of each branch was almost white, giving the whole plant a wonderful star-like effect. Aspidistra — The aspidistra is the toughest of all foliage plants — if not of all house plants. It has proved hardy out-of-doors as far north as Philadelphia. The long flat leaves grow to a height of eighteen to twenty-four inches, springing directly from the ground. Its chief requirement is plenty of ^vater during the growing season. New plants are readily obtained by dividing the old roots in Feb- ruary or August. There are several varieties and those familiar only with the common green sort (A. elatior) will be surprised and pleased with the striking effective- ness of the variegated, (A. e, varigata) and with the spotted leaved A. punctata. Caladiiim — This is another popular plant for which I have never cared greatly myself. It seems 84 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS to have no personality. Well grown plants, how- ever, give most gorgeous color effects. Buy bulbs of the fancy-leaved section, and start in February or March, giving very little water at first. Take in before the first sign of frosts. When growth stops, dry off gradually and store in warm cellar ; or better, take out of pots and pack in sand. Do not let them dry out enough to shrivel. Coleits — The best of all the gay colored foliage plants, but tender. To keep looking well in winter they must have plenty of warmth and sunlight. Root cuttings in August. They grow on very rap- idly. Make selections from the garden or a florist's, as they come in a great variety of colors and mark- ings. DraccBna — The best of all plants, outside the palms, for centers of vases, boxes and large pots. Small plants make very beautiful centers for fern dishes. The colored section need to be kept on the warm side. Give plenty of water in summer, but none on the leaves in winter, as it is apt to lodge in the leaf axils and cause trouble. Draccena (Cordyline) — Indivisa, with long, nar- row, recurved green leaves, is the one mostly used. The various colored sorts are described in most catalogues. Leopard Plant — Farfugium grande, better known as Leopard Plant, has handsome dark green leaves marked with yellow. It is of the easiest culture, FOLIAGE PLANTS 85 standing zero weather. Old plants may be divided in spring and rooted in sand. There is a newer variety with white spots, very beautiful. The far- fugium is now more commonly listed as Senecio Kaempferi. Pandamis — The Screw Pine is another fav- orite decorative plant, easily grown. The leaves are two or three feet long and come out spirally, as the name indicates. As they get older they curve down gracefully, giving a very pleasing effect. The soil for pandanuses should contain a gener- ous amount of sand. Give plenty of water in sum- mer, little in winter, and be sure that none of it lodges in the axils of the leaves, as rot is very easily induced. New plants are produced from suckers at the base of the old ones. Pandamis titilis is the variety most commonly seen. P. Veitchii, dark green bordered with broad stripes of pure white, is much more decorative, a really beautiful plant. P. Sanderi is another good sort, with golden yellow coloring, that should be given a trial. Pepper. — Some of the peppers make very attrac- tive pot plants on account of their bright fruit, which is very pretty in all stages of growth from the new green pods, through yellow to bright red. Buy new plants or start from seed in spring. They are easily grown if kept on the warm side. Celestial 86 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS and Kaleidoscope are the two kinds best suited for bouse culture. The Rubber (Ficus.) This is the most popular of all formal decorative plants. At least part of the secret of its success undoubtedly lies in the fact that — almost literally — you cannot kill it! But that is no excuse for abusing it either, as there is all the difference in the world between a well cared for symmetrical plant and one of the semi- denuded, lop-sided, spotted leaved plants one so frequently sees, and than which, as far as ornamenta- tion is concerned, an empty pot would be far more decorative. The rubber requires — and deserves — a good rich soil, and in the spring, summer and fall, all the water that the soil will keep absorbed. Give less in winter, as an excess at this time causes the leaves to turn yellow and droop. As the rubber is more difficult to propagate than most house plants, and specimens will not get too large for several years, it will be best to get plants from the florist. It frequently happens, however, that an old plant which has been grown up to a single stem, becomes unwieldy, and bare at the bottom. In such cases the upper part may be re- moved by " topping " and the main trunk cut back to within six to eighteen inches of the pot or tub, and water withheld partly until new growth starts. The old stem may thus be transformed into a low, FOLIAGE PLANTS 87 bush plant and frequently they make very hand- some specimens. The topping is performed by mak- ing a deep upward slanting cut, with a sharp knife, at the point you want in the pot for your new plant. In the cut stuff a little sphagnum moss ; remove this after a few days and wash the cut out with warm w^ater, removing the congealed sap. Insert fresh moss and with strips of soft cloth tie a good hand- ful over the wound. Keep this moist constantly until the roots show through the moss, which may be several weeks. Then pot in moist earth, not wet, and syringe daily, but do not w^ater the pots for two or three days. Sometimes pots cut in halves and the bottoms partly removed are used to hold the moss in place. August is a good time to propagate. Ficits elastic a is the common rubber plant. The " fiddle-leaved " rubber plant (F. pandurata) is an- other variety, now largely grown. It differs from the former in having very broad, blunt leaves, shaped like the head of a fiddle, which are marked by the whitish veins. Two other beautiful plants are F. Cooperia, having large leaves with red mid- ribs, and F, Parcelli, with leaves marbled with white. They should be given a higher temperature than F. elastica. Saxifraga: S. sarmentosa tricolor is the commonly known strawberry geranium, or beefsteak plant. It has a quite unique habit of growth and is best dis- 88 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS played where its numerous runners have a chance to hang down, as from a basket or hanging pot. The runners are easily rooted in soil. There are numer- ous varieties, with flowers of red, white and pink. Sensitive Plant (Mimosa pudica) — This is a pretty little green-leaved plant, the never-failing in- terest in which lies not in its beauty, however, but in the fact that it shrinks and folds up when touched, as though it belonged to the animal king- dom. It is easily grown from seed. Tradescantia — This is otherwise known as spider- wort, Wandering Jew, Creeping Charles and under other names. It is a very pretty running or trailing plant, of the easiest culture, its chief require- ment being plenty of water. Cuttings root easily at any time. There are several varieties, among them being discolor, a variegated leaf, and Zehrina multi- color, the leaves of which give almost a rainbow effect in their wonderful diversity and blending. For those familiar only with the old green variety it will prove a great surprise. Zebra Plant (Maranta zehrina) — This is another easily grown decorative plant with tropical looking, large leaves. While usually listed as Maranta ze- hrina, it is really a calathea and the plants of this genus show a variation in their markings unsur- passed by any. Zebrina and most of the varieties, of which there are many, should be grown in the shade, with plenty of water and a minimum temper- 3 O c^' r The rubber plant (Ficus of all formal clastica), perhaps the most popular decorative house plants FOLIAGE PLANTS 89 ature of sixty degrees all the year. C. piilchella and C. intermedia resembles C. zehrina and can be grown in a cooler temperature. Do not allow the plants to flower. Increase by division. CHAPTER XI VINES A NUMBER of the vines make very excellent house plants, though one seldom sees them. This seems rather strange when one takes into consideration the facts that they are easily grown and can be used for decorative effects im- possible with any other plants. If there is one particular caution to be given in regard to caring for plants in the house, it is to keep the foliage clean. Naturally a vine that runs up the window trim, and maybe halfway across the wall to a picture frame, cannot well be sprinkled or syringed; but the leaves can be occasionally wiped off with a moist, soft cloth. Keep the pores open; they have to breathe. Cissus discolor — This altogether too little known vine has the most beautiful foliage of any. The leaves are a velvety green veined with silver, the under surfaces being reddish and the stems red. It is a rapid grower and readily managed if kept on the warm side. New plants may be had from cut- tings at almost any season. C. antarctica is better known and easily grown. Clematis — This popular outdoor vine is some- go VINES 91 times successfully used as a house plant, and has the advantage of doing well in a low temperature. Cuttings rooted in June and grown on will make good plants, but the best way will be to get at the florist's two or three plants of the splendid new varieties now to be had. Cobcca scandens — The coboea is sometimes called the cup-and-saucer flower. It is very energetic, growing under good conditions to a length of twenty to thirty feet. The flowers, which are frequently two inches across, are purplish in color and very pretty. They are borne quite freely. The coboea is easily managed if kept properly trained. As the plant in proportion to the pot room is very large, liquid manures or fertilizers are de- sirable. Either seeds or cuttings will furnish new plants. The former should be placed edge down, one in a two-inch pot and pressed in level with the surface. They will soon need repotting, and must be shifted frequently until they are put in six- or eight-inch pots. Coboea scandens variegata is a very handsome form and should without fail be tried. Hoya carnosa — This is commonly known as the wax plant on account of its thick leaves and wax- like flowers, which are a delicate pink and borne in large pendulous umbels. It is easily cared for ; give full sun in summer and keep moderately dry in winter. Leave the old flower stalks on the plant. 92 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS Cuttings may be rooted in early spring in pots, plunged in bottom heat. The Ivys — The ivys are the most graceful of all the vines, and with them the most artistic effects in decoration may be produced. I have always won- dered why they are not more frequently used, for they are in many respects ideal as house plants ; they produce more growth to a given size pot than any other plants, they thrive in the shade, they withstand the uncongenial conditions usually found in the house, and are among the hardiest of plants suitable for house culture. And yet how many women will fret and fume over a Lorraine begonia or some other refractory plant, not adapted at all to growing in- doors, when half the amount of care spent on a few ivys would grace their windows with frames of living green, giving a setting to all their other plants which would enhance their beauty a hundred percent. The English ivy (Hcdera helix) is the best for house culture. A form with small leaves, H. Don- erailensis, is better for many purposes. And then there is a variegated form, which is very beautiful. Large cuttings, rooted in the fall, will make good plants. Hedera helix arhorescens is known as the Irish ivy and is a very rapid grower. The German ivy (Senecio seandens) has leaves the shape of the English ivy, and is a wonderfully rapid grower and a great climber. It lacks, how- VINES 93 ever, the substance and coloring of the real ivy. It is, nevertheless, valuable for temporary uses, and a plant or two should always be kept. Cuttings root freely and grow at any time. Manettia — This is a cheery, free flowering little vine, especially good for covering a small trellis in a pot. The brilliant little flowers, white, blue or red and yellow, are very welcome winter visitors. Cut- tings root easily in summer and the plants arc very easily cared for, being particularly free from insect pests. Give partial shade in summer. Mimosa moschahts — This is the common Musk Plant which, according to one's taste, is pleas- ant — or the opposite. It is of creeping habit and has very pretty foliage. There are a number of varieties. That described above is covered with small yellow flowers. M. m. Harrisonii has larger flowers. M. cardinalis, red flowers and is dwarf in habit. M. ghitinosns is erect in habit, with salmon colored flowers, very pretty. Moneywort (Lysimachia Nummularia) — This is a favorite basket plant, as it is a rapid grower and not particular about its surroundings, so long as it has enough water. While the flowers are pretty, being a cheery yellow, the plant is grown for its foliage. New plants may be had by dividing old clumps. Morning-Glory — This beautiful flower is seldom 94 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS seen in the house, but will do well there if plenty of light can be given. Neither vines nor flowers grow as large as they do out-of-doors, but they make very pretty plants. Nasturtium — Another common summer flower that makes a very pretty plant in the house. Start seeds in August and shift on to five-or-six-inch pots. There is also a dwarf form and other sorts with variegated ivy leaves that make splendid pot plants. Of the tall sorts some of the new named varieties, like Sunlight and Moonlight, give beautiful and very harmonious effects. They will be a very pleasant surprise to those familiar only with the old bright mixed colors. Othonna crassifolia — This pretty little yellow flowered trailing plant, sometimes known as " little Pickles " is quite a favorite for boxes, or as a hang- ing or bracket plant. It should be given the full sun but little water in winter. When too long, it it may be cut back freely. Root cuttings, or the small tufts along the trailing stems, in spring. Smilax — In some ways this is the most airily beautiful and graceful of all the decorative vines. And it is valuable not only for its own beauty, but for its usefulness in setting off the beauty of other flowers. It is very easily grown if kept on the warm side, and given plenty of root room. Care should be taken to provide green colored strings for the vines to climb up, as they make a very rapid VINES 95 growth when once started. The best way to pro- vide plants is to get a few from the florist late in the spring, or start from seed in February. New plants do better than those kept two seasons. Sweet Peas — Of late years a great deal has been done with sweet peas in winter, and where one can give them plenty of light, they will do well inside. Plenty of air and a temperature a little on the cool side, with rich soil, wall suit them. Start seed in very early fall, or in winter, accord- ing as you want bloom early or late. There are now a number of varieties grown especially for winter work such as Christmas Pink, Christmas White, etc. Five or six varieties will give a very satisfactory collection. The fragrant, beautiful blossoms are always welcome, but doubly so in win- ter. Do not let the flowers fade on the vines, as it increases the number of flowers to have them taken off. Thunbergia — The Thunbergia, sometimes called the " butterfly plant," is the best all-round flowering vine for the house. The flowers are freely pro- duced, average an inch to an inch-and-a-half across, and cover a wide range of colors, including white, blue, purple, yellow and shades and combinations of these. Its requirements are not special: keep growing on during summer into a somewhat bushy form, as the vines will grow rapidly when allowed to run in the house. It can be grown from seed 96 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS but cuttings make the best plants. Root early in spring, and by having a succession of rooted cuttings blossoms may be had all winter. Thunbergia laurifolia has flowers of white and blue; T. fragrans, pure white; and T. Mysorensis, purple and yellow. One too seldom sees miics Ubcd indoors, although they are easily grown and can be made most decorative The Crested Scott Fern {Ncphrolepis cxaltata, var. Scholzeli) is one of the most beautiful developments from the Boston Fern CHAPTER XII FERNS FERNS, although there are not many varie- ties of them available for culture indoors, are probably more universally used as house plants than any other class of plants. Their culture is not difficult, although it differs somewhat from that given most of the plants described in the pre- ceding pages. In the first place, ferns want a porous soil, say two parts screened leaf -mould, one sand and one old manure or rich loam, the latter being preferable. In the second place, they should be given a warmer temperature, a minimum of fifty-five de- grees at night being very desirable, although not ab- solutely essential. The third requisite in success with ferns is a moist atmosphere, as well as plenty of water at the roots. If the pots are carefully drained (facing page 41) as they should be, and the soil properly porous, it will be almost impossible to over-water at the roots. Great care should be taken, however, not to wet the foliage, particularly where the sun can shine on the leaves. When the fronds must be wet, to keep them clean, try to do it on a warm day, that they may 97 98 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS dry off quickly near an open north or east window. They should always be given as much light as pos- sible, without direct sunlight, and as much air as possible while maintaining the proper temperature. Many of the ferns can be increased either by run- ners or division, and these are easily propagated at home. Those which are grown from spores (the fern's seeds) it will be better to get from the flo- rist's. Most of the ferns belong to one of three groups, the sword ferns (Nephrolepis), the maidenhairs (Adiantum) or the spider ferns (Pteris). The dis- tinguishing feature of the sword ferns is their long pointed fronds; the maidenhairs command atten- tion by their beautiful feathery foliage, in some varieties as delicate as the filmiest lace; and the spider ferns, seen usually in mixed varieties in dishes or fern pans, are attractive for their shades of green, gray, white and silver, and compact growth. THE SWORD FERNS The old widely popular sword fern was Nephro- lepis exaltata, but the original form has been almost entirely replaced by new varieties developed from it, the most widely known of which is the Boston fern {N, ex. var. Bostoniensis). The wide popularity of this fern is due to both its beauty and its hard- iness, as it will stand more ill usage than any other FERNS 99 house fern. It grows rapidly and makes a hand- some plant at all stages of development. THE SCOTT FERN A well grown large Boston fern requires a good deal of room, and the long fronds — three feet or more in length — are apt to get damaged at the ends. For these reasons the Scottii fern, a develop- ment of the Boston, is for some purposes a better plant. Its fronds are like those of the latter, but shorter and proportionately narrower, and the habit of the plant is much more dense and compact. It makes a very satisfactory plant. THE PLUMED TYPE Another fern developed from the Boston is Whitmani, in which the fronds are not so long but the foliage is so finely divided that it gives a decided plumey effect. The Whitmani is perhaps the best of this type for house culture as the others, under adverse conditions, are likely to revert to the Bos- ton type of frond. Piersoni and Elegantissima are exceptionally beautiful, but must be given careful attention. Scholzeli, sometimes called the Crested Scott fern, is very beautiful and well w^orth trying. THE MAIDENHAIRS Of the beautiful, but delicate, adiantums perhaps the one most frequently seen in the florist's window is A. Farleyense, with its drooping, lace-like, light green leaves. It is not, however, suited for house 100 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS culture and while it can be made to succeed, do not waste time in trying it until you have mastered the growing of the hardier sorts. However, just because Farley ense is so delicate, do not feel that you cannot have any maidenhair fern. Croweanum is another beautiful adiantum, and as its fronds are much firmer than those of most of this class, it withstands the trying conditions of house culture very satisfactorily. Another maiden- hair, often called the hardy Farleyense, is Adiantum c. V. imbricatum. As its name suggests, it looks very much like the Farley fern, but it is suitable for house culture. It is a very satisfactory fern. And just recently there is another from England called the Glory fern (Glory of Moordrecht). I have not seen it, but certainly from photographs and what the horticultural journals have said of it, it will make a very fine fern for the winter garden. THE SPIDER FERNS The name given Pteris ferns is descriptive of only part of them, as they vary greatly. They are com- monly used in made up dishes, or with other plants, but most of them will make fine single plants as well. P. Wilsoni is a popular sort making a compact plant with a unique tufted foliage of light clear green. P. cretica is dark green, or green lined with white, according to the variety. Victories is perhaps the best of the several variegated Pteris'. ;3 U3 P ^^ a rt CXM-H o ,__, a p p M-H c/) o rt rt u tJO .^ -^ ^iw >•'-' rt ^ en Kn m rt Oi. c o £ N 03 33 >- TiD M^ OJ • S ^ J^ Lt JD Fig. 7 — ^The best arrangement for heating a greenhouse by hot air, is to run a brick or cement flue from the furnace around under the benches and Into the chimney over the fire AA — storage space; B — furnace; C — chim- ney; DDD — benches; E — furnace door. and rising, draws the hot air from the furnace around through the flue with a forced draft. This forced draft accomplishes three other good things : it does away with the escape of noxious gases into the greenhouses, lessens the accumulation of mois- ture and dust from wood smoke, and distributes the heat much more evenly throughout the house. The furnace may be built of solid brick, with doors and grates and an arched dome, and the flue should be of brick for at least one-third the length from the furnace into the house; for the rest of the way ce- ment or vitrified drain pipe will be cheaper and bet- ter. The flue should have a gradual upward slope for its whole length and will vary in size with the METHOD OF HEATING 169 house to be heated, from five to eight or nine inches in diameter, the latter being sufficient for a house 60 by 21 feet. The flue should be raised a little from the ground, and at no point should any wood- Fig. 8 — Hot water is undoubtedly the most sat- isfactory method of heating the small green- house. The diagram shows a i|-inch supply pipe leading out from the boiler, with i-inch returns under the benches, making a satisfactory system for the lean-to type described in detail in the previous chapter. work be nearer than six inches to it. Very small houses, especially if not started up until January, may be heated by an ordinary wood stove with the stove pipe run the length of the house, but such an arrangement will give off a very drying and uneven heat, and require a lot of attention, to say nothing of its danger. 170 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS By far the most satisfactory way will be to use hot water. If the size of the house will not justify the purchase of a small heater — a second-hand one may often be had at a very reasonable figure — a substitute may be had by inserting a hot-water coil in a stove or in the house furnace. In one Fig. 9 — For the larger greenhouse of the isolated double-slope type, 21 x 50 feet in size, a 2-inch supply pipe, with five li-inch returns under the outer benches, will secure a tem- perature of 55 degrees. of the diagrams is shown an arrangement of pipes for heating a house 21x50 feet, and in another piping for lean-to described in the preceding chapter. With the small pipe suf- ficient for such a house as that illustrated in the lat- ter diagram, the work can be done by anyone at all acquainted with the use of pipe tools; if possible, the pipes should be given a slight downward slope, METHOD OF HEATING 171 say one inch in ten feet, from as near the heater as practical. For all this work second-hand piping, newly threaded, will answer very well, and it may be bought for about four cents per foot for one-inch pipe; six cents for one and one-half inch, and eight cents for two-inch. In putting the stove or heater in place, it should be sunk below the level upon which the pipes will run, and attention should also be given to the matter of caring for the fire, remov- ing ashes, etc., making the management of these things as convenient as possible. CRaPTER XXIII MANAGEMENT EXPERIENCE only can teach the beginner just how to manage his vegetables and plants in this new winter garden. But at the out- set he must remember one thing: If it is true that he has control of his miniature world of growing things it is also true that he can leave nothing, as he does with his outside garden, to the treatment of nature. The control is in his hands — the warmth, the moisture, the fresh air, the soil — none can be left to chance; he must think of them all. And before going into details, which might at first be confusing, let us take up the elements of this little world over which we are to reign, and try to elucidate first a few general rules to guide us. The house, after countless little delays and unforeseen problems conquered by personal interest and in- genuity, is at last ready, and the bare board benches look ugly enough in the bright, hot sunlight. How are they to be converted into a small Garden of Eden, when all outdoors is chained in the silent desolation of drifted snow? Here is a new task. No longer Nature's assistant, the gardener has been given en- tire management of this new sort of garden. It is 172 MANAGEMENT i73 almost a factory, where he must take his raw ma- terials — earth, water, heat, light, and the wonder- ful thread of life, and mold these all into a hun- dred marvelous forms of beauty and utility. Some- thing of art, something of science, something of business, must all be brought to his interesting work. Let us begin then at the bottom. What is the best kind of dirt to use? It should be friable, so that it will not bake and cake in the pots ; rich, that the little plants may readily find ample nourishment ; porous, that water may be soaked up readily, and any surplus drained off freely. A soil answering all these requirements is made as follows : cut from an old ditch or fence-side, thick sods, and stack them with the grass sides together to rot. This heap should be forked over several times, when it has begun to decompose. In dry weather, if within reach of the hose, a good soaking occasionally will help the process along. The sods should be cut during spring or summer. To this pile of sod, when well rotted (or at time of using), add one- third in bulk of thoroughly rotted manure — cow and horse mixed, and a year old, if it can be ob- tained — and mix thoroughly. If the soil is clayey or heavy, add enough coarse sand and make it fine and friable, or use a larger proportion of the manure. Leaf -mould, from the w^oods, will also be good to lighten it with. This one mixture will do for ail your potting. Keep enough of it under 174 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS cover, or where it will not freeze, to last you during the winter and early spring. Store some of it in old barrels, or in boxes under the greenhouse bench, if there is not a more convenient place. For very small pots, run it through a half-inch sieve. For the larger sizes, three inches and up, this will not be necessary — just be sure the ingredients are well mixed. Proper temperature is more likely to be the be- ginner's stumbling block than any other one thing. Different plants, of course, require different treat- ment in this respect; and just as your corn and beans will not come up if planted too early in the spring, or carrot or pansy seed in the heat of July, so the temperature in which a coleus will thrive would be fatal to the success of verbenas or lettuce under glass. It will often pay, where a variety of things are to be grown in the small greenhouse, to have a glass partition separating it into two sec- tions, one of which may be kept, either by additional piping or less ventilation, several degrees warmer than the other. So, while a general collection of many plants can be grown successfully in the same temperature, it is foolish to try everything. Only actual experiment can show the operator just what he can and cannot do with his small house. Even where no glass partition is used, there will probably be some variation in temperature in different parts of the house, and this condition may be turned to MANAGEMENT I7S advantage. The beginner, however, is more likely to keep his house too hot than too cool. He may seem at first to be getting a fine quick growth, and then wonders why things begin to be lanky, and yellow, forgetting that his plants can get no air to breathe, except what he is careful enough to give to them. For the majority of those plants which the beginner is likely to try — geraniums, petunias, begonias, fuchsias, abutilon, heliotrope, ferns, etc., a night temperature of 45 to 55 degrees, with 10 to 20 degrees higher during the day, will keep them in good growing condition during the winter, pro- viding they are neglected in no other respect. So long as they are not chilled, they cannot have too much fresh air during sunny days. Make it your aim to keep the temperature as steady as possible — the damage done to plants is as often the result of sudden changes in temperature as of too high or too low a temperature. If it is easy to overdo in the matter of temper- ature, it is even more so in watering. A soil such as described above, when watered, will absorb the water rapidly, and leave none of it standing upon the surface of the pots after a few moments. Prac- tice, and practice only, can teach just when the soil has been sufficiently saturated. It should be wa- tered until wet clear through, but never until it becomes muddy. And when watered it should not be watered again until dry — not baked and hard. 176 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS but a condition indicated by a whitening of the sur- face, and the rapidity with which it will again soak up water, a condition hard to describe exactly, but at once recognizable after a little practice. Dur- ing the dull winter months, it will be sufficient for most plants in the greenhouse to receive water twice a week, or even less often, but on the coming of warm spring days, more frequently, until care is needed daily. There are some old fogy ideas about soft and tepid water, which may help confuse the beginner: they accomplish nothing more. Recent experiments, made by one of the State ex- periment stations, have confirmed the experience of practical florists, that the temperature of water used, even to ice water, has almost absolutely no effect — the reason being that the water applied changes to the temperature of the soil almost before it can reach the roots of the plant at all. And hard and soft, spring and cistern water, have like- wise been used without difference in results. The main thing is to attend to your watering regularly, never letting the plants get dried out or baked. Not the least important of the " arts " which the worker under glass has to acquire is that of potting. From the time the cuttings in the sand bench are rooted, until the plants are ready to go outdoors in the spring, they have to be potted and repotted. The operation is a very simple one when once ac- quired. To begin with the cutting: Take a two- MANAGEMENT 177 inch pot (a few of the geranium cuttings may re- quire a 2 1-2 inch pot), fill it level with the sifted soil and with the forefinger make a hole large enough to receive the roots of the cutting and half its length, without bending the roots up. With the thumbs press down the dirt firmly on either side of the cutting, and give the pot a clean, short rap, either with the hand or h)y striking its bottom against the bench f which should be about waist-high) to firm and level the earth in it. With a little practice this operation becomes a very easy and quick one. Place the pots side by side and give a thorough watering. Keep in a shaded place, or shade with newspapers, for four or six days, and as soon as growth begins, move the pots apart, to allow the free circulation of air before the plants crowd. The time for repot- ting in a larger size pot is shown by the condition of the roots; they should have formed a network about the side of the pot, but not have remained there long enough to become tough or hard. They should still be white " working " roots. To repot, remove the ball of earth from the old pot, by invert- ing, striking the rim of the pot against the edge of the bench (a light tap should be sufficient), taking care to have the index and middle finger on either side of the plant stem, to hold it readily. Put in the bottom of the new pot sufficient earth to bring the top of the ball of roots, when placed upon it, a little below the rim of the pot. Hold 178 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS this ball firmly in the center of the new pot, and fill in the space about it with fresh earth, packing it in firmly, using either the fingers or a bit of wood of convenient size. As a usual thing it is best when shifting to use a pot only one size larger. For pots above four inches in diameter, provide drainage by *' crocking." This is accomplished by putting ir- regular shaped bits of stone, charcoal, cinders or pieces of broken pots in the bottom, being careful not to cover or plug up the hole. If the pots are placed directly on the bottom of the bench — board, slate, tile or whatever it is — they will dry out so quickly that it is next to im- possible to keep them properly watered. To over- come this difficulty, an inch or two of sand, or two or three inches of earth, is placed on the benches. When placing the pots upon this covering, work them down into it, just a little, instead of setting them loosely on top of it. There are several insect pests which are likely to prove quite troublesome if given a start and the proper conditions in which to develop — crowded plants, too much heat, lack of ventilation, too little moisture. Prevention is the best cure. Burn to- bacco stems or tobacco dust, used according to di- rections, every week (or oftener if required), and see that no bugs appear. One or two of the strong- est brands of tobacco dust for sprinkling are also used successfully applied directly to the insects on MANAGEMENT i79 the plants, but my experience with most of these has proved them next to worthless. (See also Chapter XVII.) It is not nearly so interesting to read about the various greenhouse operations as it is to do them. It is work of an entrancing nature, and no one who had never taken a little slip of some new or rare plant and nursed it through the cutting stage and watched its growth till the first bud opened, can have an idea of the pleasure to be had. In the next chapter I shall attempt to explain just how to handle some of the most satisfactory flowers and vege- tables, but the inexperienced owner of a small greenhouse who wishes to make rapid progress should practice with every plant and seed that comes his, or her, way, until all the ordinary operations have become as easy as falling off a street car with him. Mistakes will be made, and disappointments occur, of course, but only through these can skill and efficiency be obtained. CHAPTER XXIV FLOWERS THERE are a number of greenhouse crops which are easily within the reach of the amateur who has at his disposal a small glass structure. One is apt to feel that something much more elaborate than the simple means at his hands are required to produce the handsome flowers or beautiful ferns which may be seen in the florist's window. It is true that many things are beyond his achievement. He cannot grow gigantic Amer- ican Beauties on stems several feet long, nor pre- sent his friends at Christmas with the most delicate orchids ; but he can very easily have carnations more beautiful, because they will be fresher if not quite so large, than any which can be had at the glass- fronted shops ; and cyclamen as beautiful, and much more serviceable, than any orchid that ever hung from a precarious basket. To accomplish such re- sults requires not so much elaborate equipment as unremitting care — and not eternal fussing but reg- ular thought and attention. There is, for instance, no more well beloved flower than the carnation, which entirely deserves the place it has won in flower-lovers' hearts beside, if not i8o FLOWERS i8i actually ahead of, the rose. As a plant it will stand all kinds of abuse, and yet, under the care which any amateur can give it, will produce an abundance of most beautiful bloom. Within a comparatively few years the carnation, as indeed a number of other flowers, has been developed to nearly twice its former size, and the number of beautiful shades obtainable has also increased many times. To be grown at its best the carnation should have a rather cool temperature and plenty of ventilation, and these two requirements help to place it within reach of the small greenhouse operator. If only a few plants are to be grown, they may be purchased from a local florist, or obtained by mail from a seed house. If as few as two or three dozen plants are to be kept — and a surprising number of blooms may be had from a single dozen — they may be kept in pots. Use five- or six-inch pots and rich earth, with frequent applications of liquid manure, as de- scribed later. If, however, part of a bench can be given to them, the results will be more satisfactory. The bench should be well drained and contain four or five inches of rich soil, such as already described. If it is too late to compose a soil of this kind, use any rich garden loam and well rotted manure, in the proportions of five or six to one. For plants to begin blooming in the early winter, they should be put in during August, but for one's own use a later planting will do. For this year, if you are too i82 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS late, get a few plants and keep them in pots. Next year buy before March a hundred or so rooted cuttings, or in April small plants, and set them out before the middle of May. Cultivate well during the summer, being sure to keep all flower buds pinched off, and have a nice supply of your own plants ready for next fall. In putting the plants into the bench (or pots) se- lect a cloudy day, and then keep them shaded for a few days, with frequent syringing of the foliage, until they become established. Keep the night temperature very little above fifty degrees, and not above seventy-five in the daytime, while sixty will do in cloudy weather. As to the watering, they should be well soaked when put in, and thereafter only as the ground becomes dry, when it should again be wet, care being taken to wet the foliage as little as possible. In the mornings, and on bright days, syringing the foliage will be beneficial, but never in dull weather, as the leaves should never be wet over night. As the flower stems begin to shoot up they will need support. If you can get one of the many forms of wire supports used by commercial flo- rists, so much the better; but if these are not obtain- able the old method of stakes and strings (or pref- erably raf^a) will do very well. To obtain large flowers the flower stems must be " disbudded " — that is all but the end bud on each stalk should FLOWERS 183 be pinched off, thus throwing all the strength into one large flower. If, on the other hand, the ter- minal bud is taken off, and several of the side buds left, the result will be a beautiful cluster of blooms, more pleasing, to my mind, than the single large flowers, though not so valuable commercially. There are any number of wonderful new varie- ties, but the white, pink and light pink Enchantress, and one of the standard reds will give satisfaction. VIOLETS Requiring even less heat than the carnation is the old-time and all-time favorite, the violet. With no greenhouse at all, these can be grown beautifully, simply with the aid of a coldframe. But where a house is to be had, the season of blooming is, of course, much longer. The essential thing is to get strong, healthy plants. As with the carnations, if only a few are wanted, they may be grown in pots, using the six-inch size. The soil, whether for pots or benches, should be somewhat heavier than that prepared for carnations, using one-fourth to one- fifth cow manure added to the loam or rotted sod. If a bench is used, select one as near the glass as you can. Take in the plants with as little disturbance as possible, and keep them shaded for a few days, as with carnations. The plants will require to be about eight inches apart. As for care, apply water i84 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS only when the bed has begun to dry, and then until the bench is soaked through. Pots will, of course, require more frequent attention in this matter than a bench. Keep all old leaves picked off and the soil stirred about the plants, with syringing and fumi- gating as suggested on page 134. The temper- ature will be best as low as forty-five degrees at night, and as little above fifteen more in the day- time as possible. Where no artificial heat can be had, a fine crop through the spring months may be had by making a smaller frame inside the regular coldframe, and packing this space with fine dry manure, as well as banking the outer frame. This arrangement, with two sash and mats in the coldest weather, will keep the plants growing most of the winter, and certainly the abundance of fragrant blooms at a season when flowers are most scarce will amply repay you for the trouble. Some prefer the single to the double blossoms. Marie Louise and Lady Hume Campbell (double blue) ; Swanley White, and California and Princesse de Galles (single blue) are the best varieties. Plants may be purchased of most large florists or from seedsmen. FERNS Many of the decorative ferns may also be grown to perfection in the small house, at a moderate temperature, fifty to sixty degrees, the nearer sixty FLOWERS i8s the better. The Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltOr- ta Bosfoniensis) and its improved form, Scottii, are two of the best for house use, and if grown in the greenhouse until of good size and form, they will make unusual and very acceptable holiday or birth- day gifts. A few small plants obtained from the florist and kept where they do not get a direct glare of light, watered frequently enough so that the soil is always moist (but never " sopping " ), and plenty of fresh air in bright weather, will rapidly make fine plants. If you happen to have a few old plants on hand, they may be increased readily by di- vision. Separate the old crowns into a few small plants. Don't make them very small or they will not renew as readily. Keep them, if possible, a lit- tle above sixty degrees, with plenty of moisture. Loam and sand, to which is added about the same amount of leaf-mould, will make a proper soil. Asparagus ferns will also respond to about the same care, though thriving in an even lower temper- ature. Asparagus plumosiis nanus, the Lace fern, is especially delicate and graceful and makes an ideal small table plant to use with flowers. CHRYSANTHEMUMS These are propagated by cuttings, which root very easily. I would suggest, however, dipping them first in a wash of one part Aphine to thirty- five parts water, and then rinsing in clear cold i86 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS water, in order to rid them entirely of any black aphis there may be present. Give them a clean start, and it will be much easier to keep them clean, as they must be kept to make good healthy plants. If you have not already a stock on hand, I would suggest going to some florist's in the chrysanthemum season and making a list of the varieties which par- ticularly please you. Later, say in February or March, you can get cuttings of these, already rooted if you like, but it's more fun to root them yourself. Pot off in two-and-one-half-inch pots, and shift on as rapidly as the roots develop. Use, after the first potting, a very rich soil, and give plenty of water. Chrysanthemums are yery gross feeders and the secret of success with them lies in keeping them growing on from the beginning as rapidly as possible, without a check. Keep at about fifty-five degrees and repot as frequently as required. If they are to be grown in a bed or bench, have the soil ready by the first part of June. The dis- tance apart will be determined by the method by which they are to be grown — six or eight inches if to " single stems " w^ith the great big flowers one sees at the florist's; about eight, ten or twelve if three blooms are to be had from each plant. Of course that will be determined by individual taste; but personally I prefer the " spray " form, growing a dozen or more to each plant. They should be syringed frequently and given partial shade. A FLOWERS T87 j:(()f)d way is to spray onto llic roof a mixture of lime-water, about as thick as milk, or white lead and naphtha in solution. As soon as they arc well established and growing, decision must be made as to how they are to be grown. If more than one flower to a plant is wanted, pinch out the big top bud and as the side buds develop, take them all off to the numljcr of flowers required, two, three or more as the case may be. If sprays are wanted, pinch out the end buds of these side shoots also when they get about three inches long, and all Init a few of the side buds on the shoots. If at any time during growth the plants seem to be checked, or lose their healthy dark green color, it is probable that they are not getting enough food and should be given top dressings or liquid manure accordingly. Or if one docs not want to devote space in the greenhouse to them for so long a time (although they occupy it when there is little other use for it) the plants may be grown in pots, the final shift be- ing into six- or seven-inch. They are kept in a cool house, or in a vShaded place out-of-doors, plunged in coal ashes. One advantage of this method is, of course, that they can be brought into the dwelling house while in bloom. In either case, the plants must be watched care- fully for black fly, which can be kept off with i88 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS Aphine. The plants will also need supports of twine or wire, or stakes, whether in the beds or in pots. The usual method is to cut back the plants after blooming, store in a cold place and start later into new growth for cuttings. A better way is to set a few plants out early in the spring — one of each variety will give an abundance of plants for home use. Cuttings can be taken from these that will be just right for late flowers. These stock plants are cut back in the fall, taken up and stored in a deep box, keeping as cold as possible without freezing. Varieties are so numerous, so constantly chang- ing, of so many types, that it would be unsatisfac- tory to give a list. The best way, as mentioned be- fore, is to get a list of the sort you like, while they are in bloom at the florists. ROSES It is much more difficult to grow good roses than to grow either chrysanthemums or carnations. They are more particular as to soil and as to tem- perature, and more quickly affected by insects and disease. Nevertheless there is no reason why the amateur who is willing to be painstaking should not succeed with the hardier varieties. Some roses are much more easily grown than others. Plants may be grown from cuttings of the ripened wood, which FLOWERS 189 should have become too hard to comply with the ** snapping test " (see page 30) used for most other plants. By far the best way for the beginner, how- ever, is to buy from the nurserymen or florist. This is especially true of the many sorts which do better when grafted on a strong growing stock. There are two ways of buying the plants : either in the dormant state, or growing, out of pots. In the first way you get the dry roots and canes (2- year olds) from the nursery as early as possible in the spring and set them in nine-inch pots to plunge outdoors, or boxes, allowing 6 x 6 to 12 inches for room if you want them for use in the house in the winter. Cut back one-half at time of planting, and after watering to bring the soil to the right degree of moisture, go very light with it until the plants begin active growth, when it is gradually in- creased. As with chrysanthemums, as the plants get large, fertilizers and liquid manure must be given to maintain the supply of plant food. Let the plants stay out when cold weather comes, until the leaves have dropped and then store until De- cember or January in a cold dry place where they will not be frozen too hard or exposed to repeated thawings — a trial that few plants can survive. Bring into warmth as required. The above treatment is for plants for the house. For the greenhouse bench get plants that are grow- ing. They should be clean and healthy, in four- or 190 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS five-inch pots. They are set 12x12 to 12x16 inches apart, depending upon whether the variety is a very robust grower. The best time for setting is April to July first, according to season in which it is desired to get most bloom. As a rule early plant- ing is the more satisfactory. One of the most important points in success with roses is to provide thorough drainage. Even when raised beds are used, as will generally be the case in small houses, wide cracks should be left every six inches or so. If the house is low, room may be saved by making a " solid " bed directly upon the ground, putting in seven or eight inches of prepared soil on top of two or three inches of clinkers, small stone or gravel. The preparation of the soil is also a matter of great importance. It should be rather " heavy," that is, with considerably more clay than average plant soil. Five parts rotted loam sod, to one to two parts rotted cow manure, is a good mixture. It should be thoroughly composted and rotted up. When filling the bench press well down and if possible give time to settle before putting in the plants. The plants should be set in firmly. Keep shaded and syringe daily in the morning until well estab- lished. Great care must be taken to guard against any sudden changes, so that it is best to give venti- lation gradually and keep a close watch of temper- FLOWERS 191 ature, which should be kept from fifty-five to fifty- eight at night in cold weather. Care should be taken to water early in the morn- ing, that the leaves may dry off by night. At the same time it is well to keep the atmosphere as moist as possible to prevent trouble from the red spider (see page 134) which is perhaps the greatest enemy of the rose under glass. As large growth is reached, liquid manure or extra food in the form of dry fertilizer must be given, a good mixture for the latter being i lb. of nitrate of soda, one of sulphate of potash and ten of fine bone. Wood ashes sprinkled quite thick upon the soil and worked in are also good. As the plants grow tall, they will have to be given support by tying either to stakes or wires. It is v/ell to pick off the first buds also, so that mature growth may be made before they begin to flower heavil}^ The plants should at all times be kept scrupu- lously clean. The roses suited for growing in pots or boxes, to be dried off and brought into heat in January or February, are the hybrid perpetuals, and the newer ramblers, Crimson, Baby White and Baby Pink. For growing in benches, as described, the teas are used. Among the best of the standard sorts of these are Bride, Perle, Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, Bridesmaid, Pres. Carnot, Meteor, Killarney. New 192 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS sorts are constantly being tried, and some of these are improvements over old sorts. The catalogues give full description. For growing at a low temperature, fifty-five de- grees or so, the following are good : Wootton, Papa Gontier, red ; Perle, yellow ; Bridesmaid, large pink ; Mad. Cousin, small pink ; Bride, white. The above will make a good collection for the beginner to try his or her hand with. CHAPTER XXV VEGETABLES WHILE tomatoes and cucumbers require a high temperature; lettuce may be grown easily all the year round. A good method is to grow three crops of lettuce during the fall and winter, and follow with tomatoes and cu- cumbers in the spring, when the high temperature required can be more easily maintained. Lettuce is a low-temperature plant, and there is no reason why the small greenhouse owner should not be able with ease to supply his table constantly with this delicious salad. As with the carnations, and violets, if there is no part of a bench that can be devoted to the lettuce, a few plants can be grown in pots. If this method is used, the seedlings should be pricked off into small pots. When these begin to crowd they will have to be given six to eight inches of room, and the pots plunged in soil to their full depth. But it will be more satisfactory to devote a part of a bench, a solid one if possible and in the coldest part of the house, to the lettuce plants. Well rotted manure, either horse or mixed, and a sandy loam, will make the right soil. The first sowing of seed should be made about August 193 194 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS first, in a shaded bed out-of-doors; the seedlings transplanted, as vv^ith spring lettuce, to flats or an- other bed. By the last week in September these will be ready to go into the beds prepared for them, setting them about six inches apart for the loose and eight for the heading varieties. The bed should be well drained, so that the soil will never stay soggy after watering. The soil should be kept fairly dry, as too much moisture is apt to cause rot, especially with the heading sorts. Syringe occasionally on the brightest days, in the morning. Keep the surface of the bed stirred until the leaves cover it. Keep the temperature below fifty at night, especially just after planting, and while maturing. And watch sharply for the green aphis, which is the most dangerous insect pest. If to- bacco fumigation is used as a preventive, as sug- gested, they will not put in an appearance. The first heads will be ready by Thanksgiving, and a succession of plants should be had by making small sowings of seed every two or three weeks. If the same bed is used for the new crops, liquid manure, with a little dissolved soda nitrate, will be helpful. If a night temperature of sixty degrees can be assured in part of the house, tomatoes and cucum- bers may also be had all winter. If the house is only a general purpose one, held at a lower tempera- ture than that, they may still be had months before the crop outside by starting them so as to follow VEGETABLES I9S the last crop of lettuce, which should be out of the way by the first of April. The seeds of either need a high temperature to germinate well, and may be started on the return heating pipes, care be- ing taken to remove them before they are injured by too much shade or by drying out. In sowing the cucumber seed, pots or small boxes, filled about half- full of a light sandy compost, may be used, these to be filled in, leaving only two plants in each, as the plants get large enough, with a rich compost. If there is a solid bed available, a trench filled with horse manure, well packed in, will act as a hotbed and help out the temperature required for rapid growth. If fruits are wanted for the winter, the tomatoes should be started in July and the cucum- bers early in August. They should be given a very rich and sandy soil, and the day temperature may run up to eighty degrees. Until the latter part of spring, when the ventilators are opened and bees have ready access, it is necessary to use artificial fertilization in order to get the fruit to set. With a small soft brush, dust the pollen over the pistils. With the English forcing cucumbers, this will not be necessary. While fruit is setting, the houses should be kept especially dry and warm. The vines of both tomatoes and cucumbers will have to be tied up to stakes or wires with raffia. They should be pinched off at about six feet, and, for the best fruit, all suckers kept off the tomatoes. 196 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS The best varieties of tomatoes for forcing are 'Lorillard, Stirling Castle and Comet; of the cucum- bers, Arlington White Spine, Davis Perfected and the English forcing varieties. If you do not like to stop having lettuce in time to give up space to cucumbers or tomatoes, start some plants about January first, and have a hotbed ready to receive them from the flats before March first. With a little care as to ventilation and water- ing, they will come along just after the last of the greenhouse crops. A point not to be overlooked in connection with all the above suggestions is that any surplus of these fresh out-of-season things may be disposed of among your vegetable-hungry friends at the same step-ladder prices they are paying the butcher or green-grocer for wilted, shipped-about products. And don't get discouraged if some of your experi- ments do not succeed the first time. Keep on plan- ning, studying and practicing until you are getting the maximum returns and pleasure from your glass house. Tomato plants, slartcd in pots, ready for transplanting into the bench The tomato plants in full bearing. The vines are severely pruned and tied up to sticks or twine CHAPTER XXVI VEGETABLE AND BEDDING PLANTS FOR SPRING WHILE it is true that there are many ways in which one may save money with a small greenhouse all through the year, the best chance for making money is by growing vege- table and bedding plants in the spring. Bedding stock is what the florists term geraniums, coleus, begonias and other plants used for setting out flower beds in the spring. In every community a large number of such plants are used and the case will be rare indeed in which one will meet with any difficulty in disposing of quite a number of such plants among immediate neighbors and friends. The number of plants which can be grown in the spring with even a very small house and a few sash is quite surprising. The secret of the mystery lies, of course, in the fact that in their early stages, seed- lings and cuttings, the plants occupy very little room ; while as soon or soon after they are transplanted or shifted to large pots they are shoved outdoors into coldframes. As the tender vegetables, such as to- matoes, peppers, egg-plant, etc., are not started until after the hardier ones, cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower, 197 198 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS etc., the frames can be filled up again usually as fast as emptied. In the same way heliotrope, salvia, coleus and other tender plants follow pansies, daisies, carnations, etc. It will thus be seen that to grow these plants to the best advantage, a cold frame, or better still, both a coldframe and hotbed, will be used in conjunction with the small home greenhouse. Directions have already been given (see Chapter IV) in these pages for sowing, starting and trans- planting seed. VEGETABLES The dates for sowing are about as follows in the vicinity of New York. Allow about a week's dif- ference for every hundred miles of latitude — earlier in the south, later in the north. February ist — Cabbage, cauliflower. February 15th — Cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, beets, lettuce, onions for plants. March ist — Lettuce, celery (early), tomato (early), beets. March 15th — Lettuce, tomato (main), egg- plant, pepper. For one's own use or special orders, cucumbers, squash, lima beans, potatoes sprouted in flats of sand, may also be started, but there is no market demand for them. April ist — Celery (late), cauliflower; (in sods or paper pots), muskmelon, watermelon, corn, for special use. BEDDING PLANTS FOR SPRING 199 After being started and pricked off into flats, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, beets, lettuce, and celery are kept inside just long enough to get well established, and then put outside in a tight frame. Harden off as well as possible before put- ting out, as a freeze the first night might injure them. After that slight frost on the leaves will not injure them, but if they freeze stiff, apply cold water in the morning — ice-cold is just as good — and shade until they are thawed out. If very cold it will be necessary to protect the frames with shut- ters. Beets and lettuce will not stand quite so low a temperature as the cabbage group. By the time the plants are pretty well grown, cloth-covered frames may be substituted for the glass ones, and these may be used elsewhere to cover the tenderer plants such as tomato and egg-plant. After the first of April they will not need any protection. Last spring I had several thousand cabbages covered twice with several inches of snow, and hardly a one was lost. Tomatoes, peppers and egg-plants require differ- ent treatment. They are heat-loving plants, and not only succumb to even a slight freeze, but will be so checked by a low temperature, even if not touched by frost, that they will amount to little. They should be kept growing as rapidly as possible. They will also require a second transplanting. Those wanted for the retail trade are put a dozen 2O0 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS in a box, three or four inches deep and 7x9 inches. Care must be taken not to let these plants run up tall. Always give all the air possible while keeping up the temperature, which should be from fifty to fifty- five at night. Get them outdoors as soon as the weather becomes settled, where they could be pro- tected in case of a sudden late frost. BEDDING PLANTS Most of the plants used for flower gardens and lawn beds come under the three following classes: (i) Those grown from seed; (2) those grown from cuttings; (3) those of a bulbous nature. Almost all of the first group are sown in the spring in flats in the greenhouse. Two important exceptions, however, are pansies and English daisies (Bellis perennis). They are sown early in the fall, as already described, and the plants wintered over in a frame or protected outdoors. For the retail trade they are put up in small boxes or " pansy baskets " made for the purpose. While small plants, just beginning to bloom, are the best, it seems very hard to convince a customer of it and they will often choose a basket with four or five old plants loaded with bloom in preference to a dozen small ones. Asters, alyssum, balsams, candytuft, celosia, co- leus, dianthus (pink), lobelia, mignonette, petunias, phlox, portulaca, ricinus, salvia, verbenas, vinca, BEDDING PLANTS FOR SPRING 201 roses, zinnias, may all be started from seed. The greatest scret of success is to keep the plants from crowding, and keep pinched back to make bushy- plants. Salvias and coleus are the tenderest of these plants. The others can go out to the frames, if room is scarce, as soon as the weather becomes settled. PLANTS FROM CUTTINGS The method of choosing and rooting cuttings has been outlined in a previous chapter (see page 29). In greenhouse work the main difference is that they are taken in much larger quantities. For this reason it is usually convenient to have a cutting bench instead of the flats or saucers used in root- ing house plants. The bench should be three or four inches deep, filled with medium coarse, gritty sand, or a substratum of drainage material. If possible, have it so arranged that bottom heat may be given — this being most conveniently furnished with pipes under the bench boxed in. (The temper- ature required for most cuttings will be fifty to fifty- five in the house with five to ten degrees more tinder the bench.) The cutting bench should also be so situated that it readily may be shaded, as one of the most important factors of success is to prevent the cuttings from wilting at any time — especially just after placing in the sand. After rooting, the cut- tings are put into small pots or flats as already ex- plained. 202 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS Spring stock of some plants, such as geraniums, are rooted in the fall — September to November. Others, which make a quick growth, such as pe- tunias, not until early in the spring, — last of Jan- uary to April, but for the most part in February. In the former case, cuttings are taken just before frost from outside plants, or later from stock plants lifted and taken indoors; in the latter case, stock plants are taken in and carried through the winter in a more or less dormant or resting condition; being kept rather dry and started into active growth in January. The new growth furnishes material for cuttings, which are grown on as rapidly as pos- sible. The following plants are treated in one of the above ways; further details in any case may be found in the first part of the book: Alternantheres Heliotrope Begonias, fibrous rooted Ice Plant Coleus Paris Daisy Cuphia Petunias Geraniums Salvias Ivy Geraniums Vincas German Ivy BULBOUS BEDDING PLANTS The bulbous plants are started directly in pots, or in flats and transferred to pots, as described in indi- vidual cases in the preceding pages. BEDDING PLANTS FOR SPRING 203 Cannas, tall Caladiums Cannas, dwarf flowering Tuberous rooted Dahlias Begonias are the sorts for which there is most demand. CONCLUSION Condensed as the latter part of this book has had to be, I trust it may give the reader a glimpse of the pleasure, and even of the possibility for profit, that is offered by the small home glass house. Do not feel that because you cannot have a large greenhouse, with all the modern equipment, that it is not worth while to have any. Many of the large establishments in the country have grown from just such small beginnings as have been described or sug- gested here. Possibly you would never be interested in the commercial side of your under-glass gardening, even though success crowned your efforts. There is not, however, any question about the fun and healthy pleasure to be had, and I can wish you no more gardening joy than that the coming year will find you with at least a modest amount of " home glass." THE END INDEX INDEX Abutilon, 72. Acalypha, ^Z- Accessories, 140, Achj-ranthes, 81. African Blue Lily, 123. Ageratum, 66. Alternanthera, 82. Alyssum, 66. Amaryllis, 122. Anemone, 126. Anthericum, 82. Aphis, 133. Araucaria, 82. Aralia, '^Z- Ardisia, yz- Aspidistra, 83. Auciiba, TZ- Azalea, 74. B Bay-window, 3, 9. Balsam', 66. Bedding plants — grown spring, 200. Begonia Rex, 53. Begonias, flowering, 51. Blood Flower, 124. Bone meal, 141. Botivardia, 74. Browallia, 75. Bulbs, Dutch or Cape, i Bulbs, for winter bloom, Cacti, no. for 17- 116. Caladium, 83, 125. Calla, 121. Candytuft, 66. Carnations, 66, 180. Cannas, 66. Chinese Sacred Lily, 127. Chrysanthemum, 67, 185. Cissus, 90. Clematis, 90. Cobcea Scandens, 91. Coldframe, 149. Coleus, 84. "Crocking" pots, 178. Cuttings, preparation of, 29. Cuttings, propagation of, 30. Cucumbers, 194. D Daphne, 75. Disbudding, 182. Diseases, 137. Dracaena, 84. E Easter lily, 120. English ivy, 92. Farfugium, 84. Ferns, 97, 184. Fertilizers, 19, 145. Flowering maple, "12. Foliage plants, 8r, Achyranthes, 81. Alternanthera, 82. Anthericum, ^2. Araucaria, 82. 207 208 INDEX Foliage plants (Continued) Aspidistra, 83. Caladium, 83. Cissus, 90. Clematis, 90. Coboea scandens, 91- Coleus, 84. Dracaena, 84. English ivy, 92. Farfugium, 84. German ivy, 92. Hoya Carnosa, 91. Ivy, 92. Leopard plant, 84. "Little Pickles," 94, "S- Manettia, 93. Moneywort, 93- Morning-glory, 93. Musk plant, 93. Nasturtium, 94. Othonna, 94- Pandanus, 85. Pepper, 85. Rubber plant, 86. Saxifraga, 87. Sensitive plant, 88. Smilax, 94. Sweet peas, 95- Thunbergia, 95- Tradescantia, 88. Vines, 90. Zebra plant, 88. Frozen plants, treatment of, 199. Genista, 75. Geranium, 56. German ivy, 92. Gladiolus, 124. Greenhouse, construction of, 156. Greenhouse, management ot, 172. Grevillea, 75. H Hanging baskets, 130, 143. Heating apparatus, 3. Heating of greenhouses, 167. Heliotrope, 61. Hibiscus, 75. Hotbed, 149- House plants, 44. Hoya Carnosa, 91. Hydrangea, 76. Hyacinths, 118. Insects, 132. Insect diseases, remedies for, 138. Iris, 126. Ivy, 9^. K Kerosene emulsion, 139. L Lantana, "^T. Leaf-mould, 141. Lemon, 'JT. Lemon verbena, 'J'J. Leopard plant, 84. Lettuce, I93- Lily-of-the-valley, 125. Light, proper amount of, 6. "Little Pickles," 94, "S- Lobelia, 68. M Mahernia (honey-bell), 68. Manettia, 93- Manures, 17, 145- Manure, liquid, 48, 145. Marguerite carnation, 66. Mealy bug, 135- Mignonette, ^. INDEX 209 Moisture, amount of for plants indoors, 12. Moneywort, 93. Morning-glory, 93. Musk plant, 93. N Narcissi, 118. Nasturtium, 94. Nitrate of soda, 20. Nitrogen, forms of, 18. O Oleander, ']']. Orange, 78. Othonna, 94. Oxalis, 120. Palms, 103. Pandanus, 85. Pansy, 68, 200. Patience plant (impatiens), 67. Peat, 141. Pepper, 85. Petunia, 62. Phosphoric acid, forms of, 18. Pots, 143- Potting, 38, 176. Potash, forms of, 18. "Plunging" pots in summer, 49. Primroses {Primud) , 03. Propagation, from cuttings, 30. Propagation, from' seed, 22-27. Propagation, "saucer system," 32. R Ranunculus, 126. Red spider, 134. Reinwardtia, 78. Repotting, 40, Resting periods of plants, 47. Rex, Begonia, 53. Root aphis, 136. Roses, 78, 188. Rubber plant, 86. Salvia, 68. Sash, lean-to, 164. Saxifraga, 87. Scale, 136. Sensitive plant, 88. Shelf, for plants, 8. Shrubs. Abutilon, 72. Acalypha, JZ- Aralia, y^. Ardisia, y^. Aucuba, yz- Azalea, 74. Bouvardia, 74. Browallia, 75. Daphne, 75. Flowering maple, y2. Genista, 75. Grevilla, 75. Hibiscus, 75. Hydrangea, 76. Lantana, yy. Lemon, yy. Lemon verbena, yy. Oleander, yy. Orange, 78. Reinwardtia, 78. Roses, 78-188. Swainsona, 79. Sweet olive, 79. Slips, preparation of, 29. Smilax, 94. Snapdragon, 64. Soil, ingredients, 141. Soil, for greenhouses, I73- Soil, for pots and boxes, 14. 210 INDEX Sphagnum moss, 141. Spirea, 126. Steria, 68. Stocks, 69. Sub-watering, 24, 142. Swainsona, 79. Sweet olive, 79. Sweet peas, 95. Temperature, for plants, in- doors, II, 45. Temperature, for green- houses, 174. Thrips, 136. Thunbergia, 95. Tomatoes, 194. Tradescantia, 88. Transplanting, 35. Tuberous begonia, 124. Tulips, 118. Vallota, 123. Vases, 129. Vegetable plants, started un- der glass, 197. Veranda boxes, 128. Verbena, 69. Verbena, Lemon, ']']. Vines, 90. Violets, 183. W Watering, 45. Watering, for greenhouse, 175. Window-boxes, 128. Window-box, construction of, 9-10. Worms, 137. Zebra plant, ■■\PR 1958