• •• 1 
 
 THE ADVENTURES 
 
 JA.CAPTAIN^S WIFE 
 
 <■••»■' 
 
 \ - ''•. >*• • : ■ . 
 
 j < • .. j;iE. STRAITS pF, MAGELLAN 
 2 r rO CALIFORilDl in I85P 
 
 O UV Tint: JBTHMItS 
 
Gass T ^ fe 5 
 
Till- \l)Vi:.\TURES 
 
 A CAPTAIN'S WIFE 
 
 (iOiNO TIIKuruil 
 
 THE STi: All's ()!• MA(;K!.LAiSr 
 
 TO CALIFORNIA IN 185 0, 
 
 RETUHNINU BY THE ISTHMUS, 
 
 NKW YORK AND SAN FRANCISCO: 
 A. ROMAN WD (OMrANV, PUKLISHERS. 
 
 'S77. 
 

 Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1877, by 
 
 M. J. RANDALL, 
 
 in the ofiice ol tlie Librarian of Congress, Washington, D. C. 
 
 7/^v 
 
V? 
 
 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN'S WIFE. 
 
 i'Ki.ii.M'- inc >t()iv '»i .1 luji itj California in 1S50, round 
 the Horn and return by the Isthmus, may interest some 
 readers ; if so, come with me. 
 
 My husband was fitting out his steamer for a voyage 
 elsewhere, when he was summoned to take command of 
 a steamship to California, and this being in the Spring of 
 1850, the beginning of the gold excitement, he was glad 
 of this opportunity of seeing this wonderful country. 
 
 f)n the morning of our departure all was bustle and 
 confusion. Kach buoyant with the hope of reaping rich 
 rewards. It was an extraordinary undertaking, such a 
 trip at this period, and the gathered friends dreaded to 
 say good-bye to those who were going upon so long a 
 voyage. 
 
 There were steamboats ready to lake any one down 
 the lower bay as far as small crafts could safely go ; 
 these boats were glad to turn head with their sea-sick 
 mortals on board. Those who were not afraid to be let 
 down from the ship into small boats remained on board 
 with us. In a heavy sea this is not a pleasant undertaking. 
 
 Now comes the cheering. I mean all those who can 
 open their mouths; those who cannot raise their voices 
 must be content to wave their handkerchiefs. The 
 signals were over, and we soon lost sight of each other, 
 "fwas a sad time to those returning, likewise to us on 
 
6 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN S WIFE. 
 
 meeting ice-bergs, but I think, if one came drifting 
 along, we should try to make fast to it and keep it in 
 tow. We must content ourselves with the thought of a 
 draught of cold water when we reach the Straits of Ma- 
 gellan, We cannot expect life to be a bed of roses, and 
 it is well it is not ; had we no trouble to contend with, 
 we should be nothing better than children. It is the 
 trials of life that makes us strong in body and mind. 
 
 On and on speeds the ship ; now and then a sail loom- 
 ing up in the distance, and fish jumping from the water 
 in every direction, as if saying, " What are you doing 
 here } " Sometimes a whale rises and spouts, then mil- 
 lions of little flying fish surround us, like flocks of birds. 
 They are wonderful little creatures, sometimes flying on 
 board ; their inquisitiveness attended with the usual sad 
 consequences. 
 
 Now the Bermudas are in sight ; land never looked 
 more beautiful. How delightful could we step on shore ! 
 But this is not to be, and we cast a long lingering glance 
 at the island as it fades from view, sinking into the 
 mighty deep. 
 
 It will be many days before we see land again, even 
 if we make the best time, so we turn to our floating 
 home for enjoyment, as one iinds resources of happiness 
 in himself after seeking it vainly elsewhere. And there 
 are many things on ship-board to amuse, if we allow our- 
 selves to be happy. Of course there are some who can- 
 not understand being happy at sea, in danger of going to 
 the bottom at any moment. Such people forget that 
 death is no more likely to come to them on the water 
 than the land. 
 
 On we go, with an occasional shower, which is delight- 
 
THF ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN S WIFE. 7 
 
 fully refreshing. Sometimes we speak a vessel, and they 
 ask for papers, as we are so recently from the " United 
 States." 
 
 Now wc are nearing the beautiful Coast of South 
 America ; we see such queer looking sailing craft made 
 in the shape af a triangle, of logs, and with one sail ; in 
 this the natives go out fishing, steering with one oar. 
 One would imagine it would frighten away the fish; evi- 
 dently they were accustomed to them, judging from the 
 quantities ca|)tured. We soon hove in sight of beautiful 
 orange groves. Had you been at sea several weeks with- 
 out seeing land, you perhaps woidd have appreciated it 
 as much as I — it was so lov' U '!>'• r.r^f ^ 'Kt, <..i.- ,]()es 
 not feel willing to leave it. 
 
 We are now off I'ernambuto ; here i.^ a naluial j>ier, 
 extending a mile into the sea, and forming a splendid 
 harbor. The (piarantine officers came on board making 
 a display, as these people are a[)t to do, imagining their 
 little city to be of great importance. We are safely 
 anchored and moored, intpiiring of the officers the state 
 of health in the city ; hearing of several cases of yellow 
 fever, which < ast a gloom over us all, not knowing which 
 of us might fall a victim to this terrible i)lague. IJeing 
 here we must make the best of it. The Captain forbade 
 officers and crew going ashore, except at noonday, or 
 eating any fruit. This was hard indeed, for the finest 
 fruits of every description can be found there, oranges 
 particularly, the best being calletl tlic *' Navel Orange." 
 AH the produce of the country is brought into the city 
 by little donkeys, which endure hardships of all kinds, 
 and are a decided blessing to this people. All the water 
 is brought in upon their backs in two stone jars, such as are 
 
8 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN S WIFE. 
 
 used throughout South America, holding two pails each 
 and slung on either side; jogging, jogging on. They are 
 something like goats, only " more so," as they exist upon 
 nearly nothing, and can climb with wonderful agility. 
 
 This city is not quite so large as New York, you must 
 remember. 
 
 We regretted that we could not have more time to spend 
 in the city, altogether a very queer looking place, the 
 houses being high, with the kitchen on top of the house. 
 This is well arranged, as garlic is an important element 
 in their cookery. But little meat is used in this climate, 
 poultry is plenty, and eggs abundant. This is a con- 
 venience for travellers, wlio are a little fastidious, as their 
 dishes are not delectable, young monkeys being considered 
 especially delicious ! No doubt they are as edible as our 
 squirrels, but the idea is unpleasant, and we are not 
 accustoined \o monkey ! 
 
 The natives have a singular way of disposing of their 
 dead. One part of the large church here is devoted to 
 service, the other to receiving the remains of their dead. 
 In this part of the church, there are vats in the floor, such 
 as tanners use. When a person dies, they are carried to this 
 church where a funeral ceremony is performed. This 
 ended, the body is lowered into a vat, where it is sub- 
 jected to a process which removes the flesh from the 
 bones ; then the longest are measured, and placed in a 
 suitable tin case, marked with the name, then " laid on the 
 shelf" most emphatically; we saw thousand of these 
 cases. Sometimes the bodies are burned. We were 
 glad to leave Pernambuco, not because we feared the 
 " vat process," since only the nobility or those of high 
 position are thus honored. Common people, as soon as 
 
THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN S WIFE. 9 
 
 breath has left the l)0(ly, arc thrown out to the greedy 
 vulture ! Heanni; this we departed in haste, glad to be 
 on the open sea onre more. 
 
 But notwithstanding the Captain's injunctions and pre- 
 cautions, the dreaded yellow-fever broke out on board, 
 and our first and fourth engineers were victims, dying of 
 this scourge. On our arrival at Pernamburo, we thought 
 we should like to remain always, but after learning more 
 f)f the city, were pleased to leave it. What short-sighted 
 mortals we are! In this rase it was a serious mailer. 
 The second day out, occurred the sad scene of a burial at 
 sea, one of our first officers, his body lowered into the 
 ocean; he who filled so responsible a position, having the 
 charge of the propelling power of the ship. In <ases of 
 burial at sea, it devolves upon the Captain to read the 
 service for the dead. This was a painful duty for my 
 husband, it being the first time he had been called upon 
 to |>erform this solemn rite; still more trying since this 
 officer held so important a position. I need not add 
 everything is in a state of anxiety on board, all feeling 
 that the service might next be re.id over their remains. 
 
 Then comes the thought, ** Is the second officer capa- 
 ble .> " When the fourth died it seemed that our ship 
 was fated, only two being left in charge of the engine. 
 
 Several days passed without any more cases of fever, 
 and the two engineers proved themselves capable and all 
 felt relieved. 
 
 We now spoke a ship bound for New York, giving them 
 papers, and forwarding letters to our friends. Shortly 
 after we saw land again, which proved to be Rio Janeiro, 
 which city has a fine harbor, and appeared a very desira- 
 ble place of residence, after our experience in Pernambuco. 
 
lO THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAINS WIFE. 
 
 There are many things here to interest a stranger, 
 one of the most remarkable being the water works, built 
 about three hundred years ago. Surprising that such 
 indolent people, who seem to have hardly energy enough 
 to keep body and soul together, should have built such a 
 reservoir. 
 
 The ladies, who can afford it, are carried about in 
 palanquins, by two or four negroes, as their means allow, 
 their maids walking by their sides with fans. All this 
 style costs but little, as the luxuries of life can here be 
 attained at small cost. 
 
 Here coffee grows in abundance, and all sorts of tropical 
 fruits. We made only a short stay, getting off to sea 
 again. 
 
 Matters going on smoothly once more, we soon cast 
 anchor at Montevideo, where we intended to take in a 
 new stock of coal. But the health officers, who came at 
 once to the ship, asked where we hailed from, and hearing 
 " Pernambuco and Rio Janeiro," ordered our departure 
 at once. So we steamed up the river La Platte to Buenos 
 Ayres, since we could not go on without coal. Here 
 we found new troubles, the officers ordering our ship to 
 be put in quarantine for twenty days, compelling us to 
 fumigate and cleanse the ship before taking in coal. 
 
 It was in our favor that we were in fresh water and 
 surrounded by a charming country. The city is beauti- 
 ful, the perfume of orange groves filling the air. Peaches 
 are raised in great abundance, and dried and boxed, like 
 raisins or figs. The houses are built in a singular manner, 
 first a thick and high wall, three hundred feet square, one 
 large house in the centre, others smaller around it. A 
 gate is opened in the morning and closed at night. 
 
THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAINS WIFE. 11 
 
 Rosas, the dictator, ruled his people with an iron hand, 
 whatever he said hcini; law; if any one o])j)oscd him they 
 Were instantly jnit to death and their heads brought to 
 him. These were salted down in barrels, and it has been 
 said that he had several barrels of heads of the prominent 
 men, in his cellar. 
 
 Coal we must have, therefore we must remain until it 
 was i)ut on board. Soon as this was done, the Captain 
 lost no time in getting off. The river La Plata is truly 
 magnificent, and we had a delightful run to the ocean, 
 once more upon our journey. 
 
 .\t the expiration of the twenty days, we were thankful 
 to .see our ship under way again, but not with the same 
 feelings as we left I'ernambuco, as Buenos Ayres was a 
 healthful place. Of course it was not pleasant staying 
 there so long by compulsion, yet it is often the case when 
 we find there is no getting 'round the inevitable, we sub- 
 mit with more grace than at first seemed jiossible. 
 
 We are now on the broad Atlantic again, this begin- 
 ning to seem more home-like, at least like reaching our 
 destination. As we near the Straits of Magellan, the 
 temperature becomes cooler — all on board ilread going 
 through the Straits, as it is always attended with more or 
 less danger, as there are many rocks and false channels, 
 and it would be a serious thing to run ashore among the 
 Patagonians, as most of them are cannibals. Vessels have 
 gone ashore here, all on board have been killed and 
 eaten, the vessel {blundered and burned At last we 
 steam into these dreaded straits, and the Captain is all 
 anxiety ; well he may be, as the safety of all depends 
 upon his caution. It was a new route to him, his charts 
 his only guide. It was Kite in the afternoon when we 
 
12 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN S WIFE. 
 
 entered, and night coming on, it grew so dark and misty, 
 it was deemed prudent to cast anchor. Casting the 
 lead, it was found that the ship lay in seventy feet of 
 water ; then the anchor was let go. Shortly after, it was 
 discovered that the water was falling fast. The tides 
 here are very wonderful, but no one could have believed 
 that the water would fall seventy feet, yet it did, and 
 much more. At daylight there was not a drop of water 
 within several miles, and we found ourselves high and 
 dry upon the sand. Luckily we did not settle upon a 
 rock near by. You may be assured it was a strange sight 
 ' — our noble ship lying stranded and helpless. But this 
 gave the sailors an opportunity to nail upon the ship's 
 bottom some sheets of copper loosened by the water. 
 
 After the Captain had overcome his astonishment, he set 
 the men to work in earnest. Knowing the water was there at 
 anchoring, he was sure of its returning in due time. 
 When it did begin to flow back, it foamed, rolling in 
 torrents, as if old Ocean had broken loose, and Neptune 
 lost his sceptre. In a little while we were again afloat, 
 the engineer losing no time in getting up steam and 
 under way. 
 
 At first, after the discovery that we were on dry land, 
 we feared the natives might attack us, and were ready to 
 give them a warm welcome ; but they understood the 
 ebb and flow of the tide, and remained on shore, giving 
 us no trouble. 
 
 Fairly started, we began looking about at the wonders 
 of these Straits, and the singularly shaped mountains lift- 
 ing their heads above the clouds, which are never seen 
 excepting in the clearest atmosphere, and are always 
 covered with snow, icicles hanging from their sides. 
 
THE ADVENTURF.S OF A CAPTAIN S WIKK. I3 
 
 Numerous rivulets of cold water running through the 
 valleys, made us long for a refreshing drink from some 
 one of them, but none were willing to risk their lives with 
 the dreadful possibility of making a meal for these 
 savages, liefore leaving the Straits, we were obliged to 
 lay to for a short time, to overhaul the engine. In the 
 meantime, the passengers thought to have a bit of fun, if 
 they could get one of the natives on board, as there were 
 hundreds of them in boats sailing about the shij>. Some 
 of these boats are large, and the natives live in them. 
 The |)assengers prevailed upon a woman to come on 
 board ; they dressed her in fme array, and then led her 
 to a looking-glass, which delighted her, but her pleasure 
 was nothing to that of the passengers. In removing her 
 native dress, they attempted to hide it from her sight, but 
 all efforts to do so were unavailing, for she watched every 
 movement with unceasing vigilance, thinking more of her 
 native costume than the fmery she had been dressed in. 
 When she left the ship and returned to the lioat, she was 
 received by the others with yells of delight and surprise. 
 Soon as she was fairly seated, she began to disrobe, and it 
 was not many minutes before this was accomplished. The 
 hat was rolled as small as possible, and each arti<:le was 
 treated in the same way, and finally stowed away, and she 
 once more herself in her native garment, simply a strip of 
 skin confined about the loins and falling half way to the 
 knee. The skin is from any animal they may ( hance to 
 kill, the rest of the body is entirely naked. The natives 
 are large and muscular, coarse features and a generally 
 ugly appearance. Well for us that we were not at their 
 mercy. 
 
 At last wc \ru f!i.' Straits of Magellan and launched 
 
14 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN S WIFE. 
 
 out into the beautiful Pacific that we have so often read 
 about and seen on many a map. But it is a different 
 matter sitting quietly at home reading about a country 
 and being actually there. This time there was a wide 
 difference, for this Pacific was roaring and foaming; the 
 angry waves dashing on the rocks from forty to fifty feet 
 high, and we wondered why it should have been so 
 named. For awhile all were silent with amazement, but 
 at length the passengers roused, and with one will de- 
 clared the ship could never live in such a sea. The Cap- 
 tain said, " She is a noble ship, has brought us safely 
 over the Atlantic, and now are you afrg^id of the calm 
 Pacific .? " I noticed that he did not think it very peace- 
 ful just then, but he must keep up courage and " go 
 ahead I " It is usually rough, going in and out of the 
 Straits, yet there was one comfort, if shipwrecked, the 
 natives would quickly pick us up. 
 
 Our steamer plunged into the mighty waves, reeled 
 but did not founder ; the engine keeping up her regular 
 revolutions, and all the officers in their places, so after all 
 our fears we came out safely. For several days we could 
 perceive no difference in the roughness of the Pacific and 
 Atlantic, the only difference we noticed was that the water 
 was more salt. Perhaps Salt Lake may have an outlet 
 into this ocean, causing the change! But in a little while 
 we concluded the Pacific had been rightly named, for 
 the sea became " smooth as a mill-pond," as the sailors 
 say. The change was a charming one after sailing so 
 long on the Atlantic. On we go, enjoying ourselves im- 
 mensely ; now and then meeting fishing craft, and often 
 seeing whales. 
 
 The next port we stop at is Valparaiso, likewise a 
 
THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN S WIFE. 15 
 
 Spanish city, entirely unlike those already visiteil by us, 
 but the Spanisli peoj)le are the same wherever you meet 
 them. The city is liilly, houses being built in every spot 
 and niche that a little adobe can stand. The earth ap- 
 pears to have been thrown up l)y an earlh(iuake ; it 
 would not be strange if it went down some day in like 
 manner, as cariht|uakes occur freipiently. Wc feel safe 
 lying in a harbor on board a steamship. There are many 
 fine horses m Chili, being broke to the saddle, as these 
 peoj)le do not care to ride in any other manner. Here 
 we found potatoes, the first we had seen since leaving 
 New York ; also other vegetables. Wheat is raised here 
 in large <iuantities, and the inhal)itants are more indus- 
 trious than any we have seen. 
 
 Again we are off, and fairly out to sea. We have 
 obtained an earthen jug with handles, called a " monkey;" 
 this is to hang upon the side of the ship filled with fresh 
 water. In this way while the ship is running, the water 
 becomes cool. 
 
 We were to have obtained coal here, but finding it 
 could l)e purchased more cheaply by turning back about 
 two hundred miles, the Captain decided to do so, and we 
 returned to Lota, where a coal mine had been newly 
 opened. This coal was !)ituminous, consequently dan- 
 gerous in large quantities, causing combustion. The ship 
 lay at Lota several days. It is slow work doing anything 
 in Spanish countries, for the cry of the people is ever 
 ^^ Poco tiftnpo^' (bye and bye), consc(iuenlly it took 
 some time to coal the ship, which gave us an opportunity 
 to look about. 
 
 The natives pointed out several places where land had 
 once been, but was now covered with water. In other 
 
l6 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN'S WIFE. 
 
 places what had been hilly, now valleys. It is not alto- 
 gether a pleasant thing to feel the earth quaking under 
 one's feet, particularly if unaccustomed to it. With the 
 natives it is an every-day affair. Being of an indolent 
 nature, I presume it is necessary to " shake them up " or 
 they would stick fast to the earth. These matters are 
 rightly ordered. The only carriage seen here is a rude 
 sort of vehicle with two wheels, which are sawed from 
 large logs, and are extremely clumsy. These are drawn 
 by oxen, with a yoke fastened to the horns. If you saw 
 one of these odd carts passing through Broadway, with 
 its load of wine, I hardly think you would know what to 
 make of it. Instead of pouring the wine into vessels 
 they put it into cattle's hides, which are sewed up, with- 
 out being tanned, left as taken off the animal. When 
 these are filled, they appear almost like the living oxen. 
 How they make them secure, I cannot conjecture, but not 
 a drop of wine escapes. It is brought from the sur- 
 rounding country in this manner in large quantities, as 
 the white grape is abundant. 
 
 Soon as the coal was on, we were again afloat, pleased 
 to get off before an earthquake came, as there had been 
 a heavy shock just before our arrival. We felt sad at the 
 thought, that some day the city might sink and all disap- 
 pear. Perhaps our sympathies were lost upon the people, 
 as they do not fret over such insignificant matters. 
 
 We do not expect to cast anchor until reaching Pan- 
 ama, where we hope to be in two weeks. The sea is 
 smooth and lovely, but the air is sultry and scorching. 
 Still there is always something to bear, and since it is not 
 very trying, we ought to be content, and so we are. In 
 this vicinity we meet a large number of whales, some- 
 
THK ADVENTURKS OF A CAPTAINS WIFK. I 7 
 
 times they arj very near, seeming lu know iliey are ihe 
 largest fish that swim, passing along so independently ; 
 when a steamer appears, they must look with wonder. 
 Following in our wake are plealy of sharks, ready to 
 devour whatever is thrown into the water, and should any 
 fall overboaril they would soon be among the missing. 
 As we near Panama, we have heavy rain, with thunder 
 and lightning. Land is seen ahead, a new delight to 
 everyone ; some were to meet dear friends who had 
 crossed the Isthmus to join them, others to ret eive letters 
 from friends at home. None can imagine with what joy 
 this prospect was welcomed, unless they have known it 
 for themselves. Not hearing a word from friends nor 
 seeing even a newspaper for almost three m<jnths. Had 
 we been buried for the same length of time, we could 
 not have more efferiually lost the run of everything. 
 It was not many seconds after the pilot announced 
 " Land in sight I " before it was sounded from mouth to 
 mouth throughout the ship. Our i)assengers had always 
 been delighted, at sight of land, this time they were over- 
 joyed, this little point being more to them than all the 
 land between it and New York. 1 thouglit what a won- 
 derful gift, that we were capable of feeling such delight ; if 
 we would encourage these feelings we should have little 
 reason to ( omplain of being unhappy, since so much de- 
 pends on ourselves. " The mind is its own place, and in 
 itself can make a hell of heaven, a heaven of hell." W'c 
 soon sailed into Panama liay, the city being one hundred 
 miles distant from the entrance. Some were almost dis- 
 posed to make themselves miserable at being still so far 
 from the haven of their delight ; having seen land they ex- 
 pected to immediately greet their friends. 
 
l8 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN'^S WIFE. 
 
 We had much to admire in sailing up, there being 
 many beautiful islands in the bay ; these are covered with 
 luxuriant foliage, and nearly all are inhabited. At last 
 the old city of Panama is in sight, with its broken down 
 walls. For myself I thought of Jerusalem, or some of 
 the cities we read of in the Bible, with its palm-trees, 
 cocoanut and orange groves. 
 
 I have said everyone was delighted, but all heretofore 
 was nothing to the overwhelming joy of those assembled 
 here to meet us — it knew no bounds. There four thou- 
 sand persons awaited conveyance, and had crossed the 
 Isthmus, still remaining in this miserable city, where 
 there were, not suitable accommodations for one hun- 
 dred. Many had been waiting for months a chance 
 to get away, and with little to. eat but fruit. Deaths oc- 
 curred daily from exposure and want. The Panama 
 fever carried off hundreds ; exposure being the principal 
 cause, as people from the States being unable to endure 
 this climate without the greatest precaution, refraining 
 from eating the fruits in excess or drinking much of the 
 water; intoxicating liquors always fatal. In their ravings 
 and delirium, the poor fellows called continually for 
 mother and sisters. Of this fearful sight none can give 
 an idea, unless an eye-witness. Sickness is difficult to 
 bear uncomplainingly when surrounded by friends ; when 
 absent from home how much more trying and sad. 
 
 There are but few points of interest here, the greatest 
 is Old Panama ; the curious feel that they must go there, 
 and they must go on horseback, a distance of ten miles 
 from New Panama. Old Panama, it is said, was sunk by an 
 earthquake about three hundred years ago, the spot where 
 it stood being now partly covered with water. Quite a 
 
THE ADVENTURF.S OF A CAPTAINS WIFK. I9 
 
 forest of trees has overgrown a portion. One looks upon 
 such scenery sadly, thinking of the many souls swallowed up 
 by such a frightful i alamity. New Panama, as it is desig- 
 nated, is no doubt three hundred years old, and looks as 
 if it might l)e three thousand ; it is wisely built on a 
 rocky foundation. There has been a strong wall round 
 the city, which is now partially destroyed ; in this were 
 two gates, one from the sea, the other from th? land, the 
 latter in good preservation , that leading from the sea is 
 broken down. 
 
 Our ship lay off, fronting the city. In a few days we 
 steamed down to the island of Taboga, a beautiful spot 
 to lay at anchor. There was plenty of water running 
 down from the mountains, which are high and steep. 
 This island was a rendezvous for pirates, who were the 
 terror of the Pacific. History says they built a church 
 there , pirates generally do not get credit for such holy 
 deeds. What motive prompted this is hard to say. 
 Belter give them credit for even this small act of piety, 
 taking into consideration the opportunities they had to 
 rob and j)lunder. 
 
 Again coal is to be taken on board, and a few passen- 
 gers ; soon as possible ; also some repairs to the ship, 
 before either were received. Several persons pleaded 
 to come on board, and the Captain could not refuse 
 since they were so uncomfortable at Panama. Soon the 
 ship was ready, and steamed ba<k to Panama, lying there 
 to receive passengers who eagerly came on board ; this 
 sight was a sad one, as they came from the landing to the 
 ship in every .sort of craft that could be obtained ; under 
 some circumstances this would have been amusing, but it 
 was anything but that, since so many were sick. When 
 
20 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN S WIFE. 
 
 the tide ebbed they were carried by natives to the small 
 boats, distant about a quarter of a mile, over sharp 
 stones and reefs in their bare feet. At high tide the 
 boats came up to the wall, where once the gate stood. 
 Here the tide rises twenty-three feet. In two days they 
 were all on board, and we on our way to California. 
 What a crowd to be stowed away. There were twelve 
 hundred, and only sixty-four state rooms. The rest of 
 the passengers must sleep as best they could ; you may 
 believe they were thickly packed on the deck, the offi- 
 cers scarcely having room to move about. Notwith- 
 standing this, all were orderly and quiet ; too happy to 
 find fault. Two elderly persons, who had crossed the 
 Isthmus, died from fatigue before we were out of sight 
 of Panama. For several days we kept in sight of the 
 coast which is level at different points, upon which grow 
 clusters of palm-trees, with here and there groves of 
 orange and lemon trees, with occasionally a tall cocoa- 
 nut, with bananas, pine apples and other tropical fruits. 
 As we neared the Gulf of Tehuantepec, the sea assumed a 
 rougher surface; heavy seas are often encountered in 
 crossing this gulf. 
 
 The Captain had his fears about the Lota coal, and 
 they now became a stern reality, as the coal is found to 
 be on fire in the centre of the pile, there is no way to 
 put it out but to remove it. Imagine this work to be 
 done, in this torrid climate, and then it must be kept a pro- 
 found secret, for should the passengers discover the 
 danger there would be more trouble than in extinguishing 
 the fire. The firemen were set to the work, and it was sev- 
 eral days before it was accomplished. All the time this 
 work was going on, the passengers would come every now 
 
THE ADVEXTURl < AI'TAIN S WIFE. ri 
 
 and then to the Captain and say, ** I think I smell some- 
 thing burning." My husband would turn it off as a joke, 
 and say, ** We must have a big fire to cook enough to 
 keep you all eating. " and at other times would say, *' If 
 you ( ould .see the quantity of coal 1 am compelled to 
 burn, you would not wonder." In this way they were 
 kejjt (juiet. 1 met a lady, whose husband commanded a 
 coal shij) ; she told me she had been on board three 
 times when the coal was on fire, and in one instance they 
 were two weeks before they reached a harbor, and the 
 last few days, the deck was so hot, they could scarcely step 
 upon it. All they can do in such a case, is to shut down 
 the hatches ami caulk them, making cver)'thing air-tight, 
 this being their only safety, as su< h a large mass of coal 
 cannot be managed. If they < an keep afloat, until a 
 harlxjrcan be reached, then the hatches are raised and the 
 ship is left to burn. It was well for us we had but a 
 small (juanlity of this kind of coal. Not many days 
 after, the boy in the storeroom set a can of alcohol on 
 fire ; this also was extinguished without the knowledge of 
 the pas.sengers. It is fortunate that they do not know all 
 that hajipens; a ca.se where " ignorance is bliss." There 
 is nothing I fear as much as a fire at sea. I was once on 
 a steamer that came very near being entirely consumed. 
 I pray it may never be my lot to have that sad experience 
 again. In case of fire, nearly everyone loses all presence 
 of mind; the very time of all others they ought to work, 
 they do nothing. If everyone would help with a will, 
 fires might almost always be conquered. 
 
 In a few days we arrived at Acapuloo, where the 
 harbor is secure, shut in from all rough seas. This city 
 is the most singular of all we have seen, there being no 
 
22 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN'S WIFE. 
 
 regularity of streets, with here and there an adobe hut. 
 There are no doors m these houses, lattice-work gates 
 instead There are two churches ; one nearly destroyed 
 three hundred years ago, perhaps by the same earth- 
 quake that buried Old Panama. There must have been 
 a pretty good shaking up about this time. Not maiiy 
 years ago the steeple of the other was cracked nearly 
 from top to bottom. The people never repair churches 
 shaken down by an earthquake, as they are extremely 
 superstitious. We arrived soon after they had expe- 
 rienced a violent shock, several houses having fallen from 
 its effects. They frequently travel from here on mules 
 to the City of Mexico. Acapulco is fearfully hot, 
 and as soon as the coal was stored the Captam lost rro 
 time in getting once more to sea. It might blow a gale 
 outside, and one would never feel a breath m this snug 
 little harbor; in other words, this hot little town Deaths 
 occurred almost daily. Among these were a husband and 
 wife, within a few hours of each other, leaving two uttle 
 girls ; one about five, the other eight. The parents did 
 not expect to die, and being delirious from the first 
 attack, did not make any arrangement. And the uttle 
 girls could only say they had lived in Philadelphia, and 
 Sad a grandmother there, but in what street they could 
 not tell. They were taken to San Francisco, and my 
 husband found a good home for them, sending word to 
 the grandmother; fortunately she was found, and as soon 
 as possible came for them. . ,1,^ 
 
 We were in sight of the coast, the entire way to the 
 Gulf of California. About two hundred miles from 
 Acapulco, there are two volcanoes. At night we saw 
 volumes of fires rising from the tops of these mountains. 
 
THE AOVENTCRKS OF A C/TPTAIN S WIFE. 23 
 
 During Uie day smoke alone was seen. Many miles 
 along this coast stretc h mountains of sand, not one green 
 shrub growing upon them. The thought arises, should 
 we be shi|>wrecked and obliged to seek such a shore as 
 this, with no prospect of dis( overing a drop of water, 
 except where thousands of hideous snakes and wild 
 beasts came to drink I The thought makes one shudder, 
 that su( h a thing might be possible. On reaching the 
 Gulf of California, we experienced heavy weather for 
 two days. We are now several hundred miles from San 
 Francisco. How anxious every one is to see this city, 
 not because they expect to see a place of great beauty, 
 neither one of comfort. What then ? Every one hoj)es 
 to make money; and what will not people endure to be- 
 ( ome rich ? Occasionally we met with some sort of 
 craft coming from the land of gold. We always spoke 
 them, if possible, incpiiring how matters were in the land 
 of promise ? never asking the question if there were any 
 places to live in, or anything to live upon. On arriving 
 they will have something to think of besides gold, yet it 
 will be necessary to get this, to obtain the wherewithal to 
 live. The first place of any note after crossing the Gulf 
 of California is San Diego. Here we are at last in Cali- 
 fornia : only twelve miles, however, from the boundary 
 line of Mexico. Never mind if it were only one, we 
 should still be perfectly happy only to get our feet on 
 something that belongs to " Unt le Sam," and see the 
 glorious stars and strij)es in the harbor and on the land. 
 I never saw the old flag look more beautiful. This Wes- 
 tern world lends its enchantment ; it is no wonder we are 
 enchanted, the climate is so mild and lovely. The 
 thought comes, why have we been so long finding this 
 
24 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN's WIFE. 
 
 Western world ? If it had been less lovely, we that had 
 been months on the ocean and through the hottest 
 climate under the sun, would have thought it so. Here 
 is one of the oldest missions established in this country. 
 I rather think these old fathers would have been better 
 pleased if Uncle Sam had kept his numerous family at 
 home. But they cannot help it now ; if only one of 
 these missions had stood on the site where the old Fort 
 was located, and where the first gold was found, they 
 would still have had their own way. As it is, Uncle Sam's 
 boys are coming by sea and land. I v/onder some inge- 
 nious Yankee does not get a balloon perfected, so they can 
 come through the air. However that is only a matter of 
 time. These Californians look with astonishment at 
 every steamer that arrives. There are not many houses 
 here except those belonging to the Mission and the Priests, 
 and these are of adobe. This people do not trouble 
 themselves to raise anything that does not take care of 
 itself. Grapes are here, and oranges, lemons, and figs, 
 all flourishing with scarcely any cultivation. The great 
 coast-range at this place is somewhat removed from the 
 harbor, just enough to make a site for a beautiful town, 
 and no doubt, some day, there will be one. 
 
 At last we are in the Harbor of Monterey, which is 
 about one hundred miles from San Francisco ; the town 
 consists of a few adobe houses. The people do not 
 seem to enter into the bustle and confusion that is only a 
 hundred miles away. Uncle Sam cannot make his 
 adopted children, his^ after all. They have been too 
 much indulged, blessed with a glorious climate, no land 
 to clear before they can begin to live. But their adopted 
 brothers will be apt to teach them a lesson. The coast 
 
THE ADVENTURKS OF A CAPTAIN S WIFK. 25 
 
 along here is charmin;^ ; the mountains sloping down to 
 the ocean, covered as it were, with green velvet, anti hun- 
 dreds of. wild cattle and horses grazing and capering 
 about, as though it were a delight to live. People can 
 cross the ( ountry from here to San Francisco if they 
 desire. Wc ditl not remain long here. The next harbor 
 will be that of the Golden (iate. Now all is confusion ; 
 every one getting ready to land. Some are going to the 
 mines, others will remain in San Francisco. Among the 
 numbc-r scan ely any one has quite deiided what to do ; 
 one thing all agreed U|>on, that is they muNl make money. 
 At last the long looked-for Ciolden Gate is in view, 
 and liie delight of the passengers is beyond description. 
 Surely this is a gate, it being scarcely half a mile across 
 the entrance. The Bay of San Francisco is most beau- 
 tiful ; forty miles in length and from eight to ten in 
 width. Our journey is now finished, and San Francisco 
 lies before us. If it was this city we had come .so far to 
 see, we should have been sadly disap])ointed. Since no 
 one cared how it appeared, it was nothing. The only 
 thought was, how t(j make the most money, and everyone 
 on landing set about it with a will. If it were necessary 
 to wlieel a barrow, they did so, I thought, could these 
 j)eople have taken hold of work with the same entiuisiasm 
 in any other country, they wouM have accomplished as 
 much as here. At this time, there were no servants here, 
 and ea< h one was seeing how well he could care for him- 
 self. Gentlemen who had offices, were their own " boy," 
 running on errands and sweeping out. I do not believe 
 these offices would have been swept so frequently, had 
 not that little pest, the flea, kept the new comers on the 
 alert. It requires some patience and great forbearance 
 
26 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN's WIFE. 
 
 to become used to these torments. In many places they 
 seem to be as numerous as the grains of sand, causing 
 strangers to pass many a sleepless night. .Amusing 
 stories are told of these little insects. 
 
 Here, in the months of July and August, the Trade 
 winds blow furiously every afternoon. If one walked out, 
 they must move rapidly or be buried by the sand. These 
 winds, blowing in but one direction, forming mountains 
 of sand, do not affect all parts of California, only near 
 San Francisco. 
 
 In many respects California is very wonderful. One 
 may start from San Francisco, and within two hundred 
 miles the climate is so variable, that the clothing must be 
 changed once or twice to be comfortable ; in San Fran- 
 cisco, you would require such clothing as you need in 
 New York in October, and this is suitable for the whole 
 year. In Sacramento it is very warm in summer, without 
 these winds, but the winters are decidedly cold. 
 
 When the rainy season began, people thought they 
 could never endure it; but their invincible courage and 
 energy did not fail them. If their tent leaked, they set 
 to work and prevented it. If sticking fast in the mud, they 
 drew out their feet, leaving boots behind, if they could 
 not be extricated without taking too much time, for time 
 was money. At last they discovered that money must be 
 expended in making themselves comfortable and taking 
 care of their health. They said, " We must have better 
 protection from the weather than these tents afford. 
 There were no boards, no timber of any size within 
 twenty or thirty miles. To build adobe houses, would 
 occupy too much time for these busy people. It was not 
 long before Boston and New York discovered the wants 
 
TUF. ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN S WIFE. 27 
 
 of California. It was not altogether because this country 
 needed lumber so much, that they responded so rapidly 
 to the eager rail, but visions of nu^i^cts of gold expected 
 
 in return. 
 
 When the lumber arrived, the pulling up ui huu>cs was 
 an interesting sight. A good-sized house, with several 
 rooms, could be constructed in a single day ; the family 
 moving in»o it at night. This I saw. Many houses came 
 all ready to put up. It is now no wonder, since it occurs 
 freipiently. 
 
 They were not always house-carpenters. Many of them 
 had never tried their skill in this way before, but when a 
 thing had to be done, they never turned aside. Such 
 energy and perseverance never fails. If San Francisco 
 attains any eminence, these should have the glory. The 
 manner of building n house was. first to lay some beams, 
 and then put the floor down. Next set up a few timbers, 
 then nail boards on to them to hold them up. Muslin, 
 instead of plaster, to fmish the rooms. When < ompleted, 
 one would fmd himself in a pretty nice-looking house, 
 never thinking it had grown up like a mush-room. 
 Condemned vessels were also changed into dwellings, the 
 occupants thinking themselves highly favored to have so 
 comfortable a home. In many respects they were quite 
 convenient. Instead of a carriage coming up to your 
 door, a boat would take its place. You could catch fish 
 for your breakfast in your back yard, and then go in and 
 cook them. There was not much ceremony used at this 
 time. There were but few house-keepers; no one to 
 scold, if things were not kept in proper place. I mu.st give 
 the gentlemen credit for doing so well. Many learned to 
 be quite skillful as cooks, but were very willing to re- 
 
28 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN's WIFE. 
 
 linquish these duties when their wives joined them. 
 Some of the first bakers had their ovens built in the open 
 air, houses built over them when they got time and the 
 necessary money. Several stores brought their first 
 stock in half a dozen trunks. It was surprising how soon 
 ail nations discovered that their goods would bring a high 
 price if brought here. In a wonderfully short time every 
 kind of extravagant goods could be found ; and there was 
 a ready market for them. 
 
 The California women were delighted with fine dress, 
 the brighter the color, the better they were suited. They 
 would put on the gayest attire, and sit down on the floor, 
 or the ground, with perfect equanimity. They never are 
 at ease in a chair. Many of these people spent the value of 
 their entire ranches for dress. They are generally fond of 
 good beds, and their mattrasses are stuffed with wool ; 
 this makes a very pleasant bed to sleep on, but the wool 
 must be washed every year to keep it nice. Game 
 abounds, which is a great blessing. No one need starve, 
 if they will work. California is no place for lazy people. 
 If a man does not work, he seems out of place. It is 
 such a stirring country, that sometimes the entire earth 
 shakes. If some of our Eastern cities had a good 
 shaking 1 think it would do them good. 
 
 The Priests prophesy, that some day the country will be 
 swallowed up by an earthquake. How much of it, I do 
 not know ; I never heard where it was to begin or end. 
 Such stories were intended to frighten the new-comers. 
 If this was their intention, they soon found out they were 
 not dealing with a credulous, superstitious people, but 
 with the Yankees, who do not scare easily. I believe if 
 some of them thought there was any danger of the gold 
 
THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN S WIFE. 29 
 
 and silver mines being swallowed, they would stay until 
 the last moment, to get all they could before it went 
 down ; as it would be such a [)ity to have it lost. 
 
 While the gold lasts and the country does not sink, the 
 people that have come to this country are made up of 
 energy and perseverance. None else would endure what 
 they must. In the first place, of course, all will not be 
 prosperous ; it seems sad they should not, since they 
 have struggled so hard to win. But such has never 
 been the case, and never will. It is well we do not know 
 what is in store for us. One thing is certain ; jjrosperity 
 does not always bring happiness, nor adversity, mi.sery. 
 If one is always prosperous, they !)ecome like a ])etted 
 child, and are ready to snarl at everything that < rosses 
 their path. When we have trials in this world it teaches 
 us that self is not the greatest object of life, after all. 
 The truly great of this world have forgotten self. If all 
 cannot be rich, I hope all may be happy. 
 
 About San Francisco, there are several placesof interest; 
 one. Telegraph Hill. All on arriving, must visit this, 
 particularly .Americans, as the flag of the country waved 
 from the top of a tall staff erected there ; this could be 
 seen at a great distance ; even at the Ciolden ('»ate, where 
 every .Xmeric an entering, could see this glorious emblem 
 of lil)erty, and take ( ourage, for wherever the stars and 
 stripes are unfurled, he is sure of protection. From here, 
 much of the surrounding country can be seen ; ac ross the 
 bay lies Oakland, eight or ten miles distant. The atmos- 
 phere is so clear, that even small objects can be dis- 
 tinguished readily. 
 
 South of West lies the Mission Dolores, where there is 
 a Church, built three or four hundred years ago. At- 
 
30 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN S WIFE* 
 
 tached to it are a number of buildings used as schools, 
 and occupied by the Priests. The interior of the church is 
 dark and dingy ; upon the walls hang a few pictures. There 
 are no seats, the congregation kneeling ; if they required 
 anything to kneel upon, they brought it with them. How 
 singular to see a Church here ! it is surely grand to find 
 this emblem of civilization in this distant country. 
 
 Beyond are hills, looking as if they had been piling — 
 piling up for ages. For several miles we rode over these 
 hills, finally reaching a pretty Spanish town, not much in 
 itself, the houses being mostly adobes. This is surrounded 
 by the beautiful valley of San Jose, It appears a lovely 
 spot to live in, although there is really nothing inviting, ex- 
 cept the valley. Thousands of horses and cattle roam wild 
 over these hills and valleys. There is something strange 
 in this sort of life, but one soon tires of it, and sighs for 
 civilization. Wild oats cover the entire country, and 
 grapes are as natural a product as oats. Here you see 
 numerous clusters of oak trees, resembling at a distance 
 an old orchard. There are neither roads nor fences, and 
 the method of getting about is upon horse-back. 
 
 It is quite a long ride around the Bay by the Mission 
 and returning by way of Oakland. The country is lonely, 
 cattle and horses roaming at will, with no barrier to pre- 
 vent; the only thing they fear being vaqueros. 
 
 It is amusing to see the Spaniards throw the lariat ; 
 they can lasso an animal at will, and apparently with no 
 effort ; yet when one considers that it has been their sole 
 business for a life-time, it is not to be wondered at — this 
 wild life is all they know. 
 
 Oakland is, as are all those towns, beautiful in shrub- 
 bery and flowers. There is a chain of mountains not far 
 
THK ADVENTURF.S OF A CAPTAIN S WIFK. 3 1 
 
 distant, Mt. Diabolo being the highest. From San Fran- 
 cisco it can be distinctly seen. Although there is no 
 snow at Oakland, still, after a cold storm, the lop of Mt. 
 Diabolo is covered with snow, as are many others in 
 California. 
 
 Crossing from San Francisco to Oakland was an under- 
 taking of considerable importance, as all were obliged to 
 take a sail or row-boat, and one must beware the rising 
 of thick fog, which coracs up so suddenly. From here to 
 Benicia is a charming ride — a day's journey — distance 
 about forty miles. IJenicia is a noted place as the United 
 States barracks are here ; this is thought by many to be 
 the most important city in California, being so beautifully 
 situated at the outlet of Sacramento River, the harbor 
 being one that shipping can lie in safety, in all weather. 
 In case of trouble with foreign powers, the hill surrounding 
 this harbor could be fortified to defy the world. The 
 country for miles back, is diversified with hills and valleys, 
 and not a tree to be seen, except here and there a group 
 of scrub-oaks. In the month of March, the country is 
 entirely covered by wild oats, and flowers of every hue 
 remaining in bloom a great portion of the summer. What 
 a pity there were not more people here to enjoy this 
 beautiful country, as so many might be spared from our 
 crowded cities. Sonoma valley is about thirty miles dis- 
 tant from IJenicia, anil is V^all.'jo's place of residence. 
 Bcni( ia is the name of the General's wife. He was 
 Governor of California when the .\mericans took posses- 
 sion of the ( ountry. They imprisoned him for a short 
 time ; he making no resistance. I suppose the officers 
 thought they must do something to show the people they 
 were conquered. The General once owned all the land 
 
32 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN S WIFE. 
 
 between this and Sonoma, with the horses and cattle upon 
 it ; a pretty good sized ranch. All these horses and 
 cattle were corralled once a year and branded with his 
 initials, insuring them against being killed by others. It 
 would seem to one unused to it, a difficult task to catch 
 the young colts and calves when there is not a fence in all 
 these thirty miles. The question arises, ^' how can it be 
 done ? " If one has never seen the Californians corrall 
 wild cattle, they might think it impossible ; however it is 
 not difficult, as the people are accustomed to it. 
 
 Bringing so many together upon so large a ranch, it 
 requires quite a number of vagueros. I have seen many 
 thousands brought together in this way and kept in con- 
 finement as long as was necessary, by constantly riding 
 around them, flourishing the lasso to keep them in. In 
 case one breaks out, a vaquero rides after him, throwing 
 the lariat, which seldom misses its mark in the hands of 
 these experts. , If disposed to be ugly, they catch him by 
 the two feet, throwing him to the ground. When again 
 upon his feet, he quietly walks back to the corrall, finding 
 it is of little use to break through an old established 
 custom. If I were left to choose, I think I would rather 
 not have a master, if his name must be burned into my 
 hide. So it is and must be, as long as the Californians 
 continue to rule the country, which will be but a short 
 time. The wild cattle are being killed off very fast, there 
 are steamers and vessels bringing their thousands to be 
 fed. Since beef is the principal food, these cattle must 
 soon disappear. Scarcely anything is raised here, beans 
 being the principal article of produce. All the Califor- 
 nians are particularly fond of them. Even potatoes are 
 not raised. Little trouble is taken to cultivate anything; 
 
THF ADVENTURKS OF A CAPTAIN S WIFK. ^^ 
 
 there is scarcely a fruit tree to be found, or berries of any 
 descriiition. 'I'lie inijuisitive Yankee would soon discover 
 what the soil would [)roduce, but there is but little chance 
 for cultivation until they build fences; none think of re- 
 maining long enough for this, everyone expecting to 
 obtain a fortune and return home in a few months. In 
 this, no doubt, many will be disappointed, as every one 
 cannot be a millionaire. Of course they will not go 
 home to become a jest and laughing stock to their friends. 
 Many remain because they love a wild, roving life, and 
 more for the best of reasons ; they have not money to pay 
 the return pa.ssage. So, in one way and another, the 
 country will be settled by people who came from all i»arts 
 of the world. It has been but a short time since no 
 language but Spanish was spoken, now many; it seems 
 almost bv magic. A ride from Benicia to Sonoma was in 
 many respe« ts interesting, but was attended by more or 
 less danger from the thousands of wild cattle, as the trip 
 must be made on horseback. If your horse happens to 
 take it into his head that he would rather have his liberty, 
 he at on« e throws you and dashes off to have a good 
 time. When you have picked yourself up, you look with 
 horror upon your animal rolling on the ground to get rid 
 of the rest of his burden. It does not take him long to 
 accomplish this, and then if you like, you can pick up 
 your saddle and walk. If you chance to meet with a 
 vaquero, he will lasso your horse, and if you like, ride it 
 around for a short time and apply the Spanish si)ur in a 
 way that will cool a horse's spirit as nothing else will. 
 You will be very apt to finish your journey without your 
 horse showing any will of his own. The country is 
 generally a succession of hills and dales; in every direc- 
 
34 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN's WIFE. 
 
 tion the cattle cover the land, illustrating the saying, 
 ''the cattle on a thousand hills," they seem so playful 
 and happy. Why should they not be ? up to their knees 
 in the wild oats all summer. When the fall rains begin, 
 then their troubles come on, since they have nothing but 
 oats to live on, and now the goodness has been washed 
 out of them. The new springs up with the first rain, but 
 of course gives but little nourishment while so young, and 
 the ix)or cattle and horses have to endure great privations 
 for want of food. It does not excite pity for the poor 
 things, it saves people the trouble of killing, as thousands 
 are killed every year for their hides, But that no longer 
 will be, unless the gold gives out. If the young oats are 
 of but little use to the cattle, they are enjoyed immensely 
 by the wild geese, which come here by the million and 
 stay about two months. One can have goose for dinner 
 till weary of the dish, and they are quite good eating. 
 The coyote, no doubt, is well pleased that there are so 
 many of them. This coyote is one of the cunningest of 
 animals, something like the fox, only more foxy. I think 
 there was never anything so saucy. When you are riding 
 along, he will sit down and look at you, as much as to 
 say, " I'm not afraid." If you fire at him, he will dodge 
 the shot ; it is seldom you can hit him. When the geese 
 leave, everybody had better look out for their chickens. 
 There are quantities of quails, so there is but little danger 
 of this animal dying out. When you first come in sight of 
 Sonoma, the valley resembles an old orchard : it made me 
 sad to think they were nothing but scrub-oaks. A short 
 distance beyond is a range of mountains covered with a 
 dense forest of red-wood timber. It resembles hemlock 
 in brittleness, and mahogany in color. The town of 
 
TIIK ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN S WIFE. 35 
 
 Sonoma amounts to l)ut little; the General's house and 
 vineyard being the greatest attraction. The houses are 
 adobe ; his is large and roomy; the wall around his vine- 
 yard is likewise adobe. He is extremely hospitable, and 
 is often imposed upon by the new-tomers. His own people 
 know better than to presume upon his kindness. He has 
 several varieties of fruit trees; instead of grape-vines, his 
 are grape trees, set about eight feet apart. He employs 
 (luite a number of Intiians, who will not work unless 
 compelled. These make the adobe brick, which are 
 made of clay, and dried in the sun, being from three to 
 four feet s<piare. The wall of an adobe house is very 
 lhi« k ; the people do not rare how much ground their 
 houses cover, or how mu< h it takes to build, as there is 
 plenty of this cheap material waiting to be used. In this 
 valley there are several hot springs. About forty miles 
 distant, is one of the wonders of the world, called the 
 ( .eysers. Here one would think there was a steam whistle 
 blowing; the place where this steam comes from may be 
 near the i)lace we read nf', none need wish a warmer. Vou do 
 not care to linger long upon the very verge of what seems 
 so much the place to which we intend to send our 
 enemies. We feel like hurrying away lest there be some 
 mistake and we go instead. The water is hot enough to 
 
 boil an egg. 
 
 The country about here is very rough, the only mode 
 of travelling is on horseback ; some timber and plenty of 
 chaparal, which is difficult to get through. Woe betide 
 whoever happens to meet Mr. Grizzly here, he being at 
 home, and I think you would wish yourself there. In 
 the small streams there are plenty of trout, and also 
 abundance of game in the mountains. .Vfier a trip of a 
 
36 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN's WIFE. 
 
 week, we found ourselves in the pleasant valley of Napa, 
 which is not far from Sonoma, and is a delightful valley. 
 From here the ride is charming through the Suisun val- 
 ley to the Sacramento. Along here you meet plenty of 
 digger Indians, who are usually short and fat, with jet 
 black hair growing down to their eyebrow^. They take 
 no care of themselves and are hideous looking enough, 
 having no energy to make themselves tidy or even trouble- 
 some. They are revengeful, not minding killing a white 
 man meeting him alone or in the dark, or any out of the 
 way place. In the fall they frequently set fire to the 
 wild oats, for no other purpose than collecting the grass- 
 hoppers, after the flames have passed over and roasted 
 them. This miserable species of humanity are seen with 
 baskets and bags picking them up for food. I have never 
 tasted them, but those that have say they are very sweet, 
 and not unlike our shrimp. I cannot see why they are 
 not as good. Occasionally we came to an adobe. The 
 Sacramento Valley is where the Sutter's Mill is located, 
 and always will be a famous spot on account of gold 
 being first discovered here. The site where the people 
 decided to build the city of Sacramento is like the bed 
 of a lake, no doubt it was. The natives of the country 
 have a tradition that this was once covered with water. 
 People were willing to take the chances, and it saved 
 them the trouble of clearing a place to put up their 
 tents. The river is several feet above the town, and 
 there are mountains in every direction. This place must 
 become a great city if the gold mines continue. The 
 people who have crossed the plains, and those who have 
 come by water meet, and it is from here the miners start 
 
THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAINS WIFK. 37 
 
 to reach nearly all the mines, and return here when bound 
 for home. 
 
 It is a lingular sight t<^ look upon a gentleman who 
 has been here six months or more. He resembles a 
 gorilla or wild man more than a human being. It is said 
 if gentlemen are without ladies' society that they become 
 demoralized; there certainly appears to be truth in this. 
 They had but little time to devote to making their toilet, 
 even had they the desire. All their energy was retpiired 
 for work. A man who could successfully battle with all 
 the hardshi|)s of this time must be strong in mind and 
 body There were plenty such to be met. Who would 
 have tllOl1^ht there were so many thousands who could 
 endure sm h pri\alions. As the gold they took from the 
 mines, were they tried in the furnace. The hardships 
 that these people had to endure who crossed the plains 
 were often frightful ; sometimes their horses and < attle 
 driven off by the Indians, and they left to starve, unless 
 picked uj) by some parly that had been more fortunate 
 than themselves. Others started too late in the sea.son 
 anil were snowed in. There are so many ways that they 
 suffered, who t ro.ssed the plains. They often started from 
 home with but little knowledge of the country they had 
 to pass through. If they chanced to come across old 
 Ilrigham c»r any of hi^ followers, they led them astray if 
 they coulil; no doubt they were often worse th in the In- 
 dians. After their numerous trials they thought them- 
 selves (juite happy to be permitted to see the land of gold. 
 Although their trials had just commenced, they found it 
 was not a land flowing with milk and honey ; no honey, 
 l)lenty of cows, but very little milk; for the cows could 
 not be induced to let them come near enough for that. 
 
38 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN's WIFE. 
 
 They have had their own way too long, and will soon 
 find they have different masters to deal with. A cow 
 that has been brought across the plains is valuable, be- 
 cause she has been educated, and the horses the same. 
 Such is not the case with the California horse. Submis- 
 sion has been forced upon him, and whenever he can 
 retaliate he does, by throwing his rider over his head. 
 These men that have endured so much in crossing the 
 plains and the miseries of the sea, now pack their mules 
 with provisions, tools, and as little clothing as possible, 
 thinking before the last is worn out, they will have made 
 their fortunes. When they arrive in the gold region they 
 do not pick up gold without an effort as they fondly 
 hoped they might, but instead of this they were up to 
 their knees in mud and water, and when night came they 
 must spend a part of it in cooking. No doubt they 
 would almost as soon have gone without, but they knew 
 that if they did not take the best care of themselves it 
 would not be possible to endure this kind of life long. 
 Many a one lost his life in trying to take care of what he 
 had toiled so hard to gain. There were here many who 
 did not hesitate at murder. Gold they must have, and 
 they thought their time too valuable to work for it. 
 This was the place to show what stuff men Avere made 
 of ; the noble were more noble, the degraded more 
 degraded. In most of the mining districts the snow fell 
 quite deep in winter, and then they could do nothing but 
 stay to watch their claims. Sometimes sick from expo- 
 sure, without common comforts. When the miners get 
 ready to go home they do not think of going by way of 
 the plains, as it is shorter by sea, so they must return to 
 Sacramento, this being as far as vessels of any size can 
 
THE AnVKNTLRKS OF A CAFTAIN's WIVK. 39 
 
 go. They take passage in anytliing they can obtain. 
 The river is very narrow and crooked, you fear every 
 moment you may run into the shore, the hanks heing low 
 and marshy land. Tiie mosquitoes here are something 
 to be dreaded, and the salmon in tlie river are as nu- 
 merous as the mosquitoes on shore. 
 
 After a tedious trip down the river we again reached 
 Benicia ; the steamships generally come here, as the 
 works are at this place, and nearly every ship needs some 
 repairs. Here the t attle are to be taken on board for 
 food, on a trip down the coast ; they must be taken on 
 alive, as there is no ice, and they are killed as needed. 
 The manner of taking them on board seems a serious 
 undertaking. The herdsmen understand their part, 
 bringing them to the ship. The task of getting them on 
 board belongs to the ship's ofticers and crew, and this is 
 by no means an easy oj)eraLion. A sling is made of can- 
 vass and ropes, whi( h is placet! round their bodies ; to 
 this are atta( hed tackles, and then they are hoisted on 
 board, and placed in strong pens. Wild cattle do not 
 enjoy travelling by water. While lying here the Ca])tain 
 and ofticers have a gay time visiting at the barrac ks ; the 
 army officers have but little to do save looking after a 
 banil of Indians now and then. When everything was 
 ready we started for San Francisco ; there is much to be 
 admired in running this short distance. Here are many 
 poor fellows who intended returning home had they not 
 been anxious to add more to their hard earnings by 
 gambling, there being man> of these temptations in 
 this city. Every possible way sharpers can invent to get 
 the gold from these miners who gave almost their lives to 
 secure it. In this place sharpers swarm like bees in a 
 
40 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN's WIFE. 
 
 flower garden. Another class, with less shrewdness to 
 draw the money from them by gambling, enticed them 
 in some out of the way place, robbing, and if possible, 
 placing them beyond all possibility of being discovered, 
 by pushing them into the dock, or disposing of them in 
 the easiest manner.. These desperadoes effected this 
 easily, as law could not be enforced, being in the hands 
 of men of little or no principle, who were willing to take 
 the money which had cost some one his life. So in one 
 way and another many that came here never got any 
 farther towards home. They found it was as difficult 
 to take care of the gold when it was obtained as to get it 
 from the mines. 
 
 Here we must take on passengers and whatever is nec- 
 essary for a trip down the coast. When this was accom- 
 plished we started for the Golden Gate which we had so 
 recently entered. What a difference ! Those who came 
 were buoyant with the hope of obtaining gold ; now 
 many who have it are broken down in health. Money 
 cannot compensate for this loss. Had we both, we could 
 enjoy life. Others who would not remain in this country 
 for all its gold. The channel through the Golden Gate is 
 very narrow, and great care must be taken, as there are 
 many rocks and false channels. On a steamer one feels 
 safe. We pass very near to Seal Rock, where thousands 
 of seals are sunning themselves, regardless of slipping 
 into the water. These seals make a peculiar barking 
 sound or growl, I hardly know which to call it. 
 
 Outside the Gate are several islands on which are de- 
 posited thousands of eggs by a peculiar bird, something 
 like a wild duck. People call them gulls eggs, but this is 
 a mistake. The eggs are as large as a goose egg ; when 
 
IHt A I»V hS i f Ri.>> (»h A CAI'IAIN'S WIFE. 
 
 41 
 
 cooked the white bein^; a bluish tinge, and in substance 
 glue-like, the yolk of a deep orange. Some are fond of 
 them. Hen's eggs are from four to five dollars a dozen, 
 and hard to obtain at that price. 
 
 Fairly under way again down the coast, and the Trade 
 winds blowing ; nearly all the passengers sick, particu- 
 larly those who crossed the plains, who think it fearfuUv 
 rough. If they live to reach the Atlantic they will 
 change their minds. We shall soon run away from these 
 winds ; in doing so we leave cool weather ; it is now be- 
 coming intensely hot, which we must endure the entire 
 way, until within a few days of New York. Several of 
 our passengers were taken ill, from their exposure in the 
 mines and elsewhere, some with that dreaded cholera. 
 One poor fellow, on being told by the doctor that he 
 could not recover, sent for the Captain, and wanted to 
 know if there was any way his body could be sent home, 
 as he could not bear to be thrown overboard. The Cap- 
 tain said he would put him in a barrel of spirits and send 
 him to his father. He took the Captain's hand, saying, 
 *' If you promise me this I shall die in peace." Taking 
 from his finger a valuable ring and his watch he requested 
 the Captain to see that his parents received them. Hav- 
 ing a large amount of gold and handsome presents he 
 was carrying home to his friends, which he had obtained 
 in India and China ; like a noble-hearted man desiring 
 to show them at home something of the countries he had 
 visited. .Ml these he gave to the Captain, saying, "I 
 know you will see them delivered." Little did he know 
 what a difficult task this was to fulfill. After his death 
 the Captain carried into effect his promise. The passen- 
 gers must not hear of his death, or they would insist upon 
 
42 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN S WIFE. 
 
 his being thrown overboard, since he died of cholera. 
 After they had retired, he put him into spirits, with the 
 assistance of the doctor; a difficult task since it must be 
 done so secretly, and after, to keep the barrel out of sight. 
 It was the Captain's intention to send him round the Horn 
 from Panama by sail. Everything went on smoothly for 
 a few days, when some one discovered that the body was 
 on board. Now arose confusion and demands that some- 
 thing should be done about this matter. There are 
 always some persons on board a ship who stir up things 
 generally. Soon the Captain was informed that if he did 
 not have this person's body disposed of they would un- 
 dertake it for him. The assurance of the barrel being 
 filled with spirits, air-tight, and that no harm could re- 
 sult failed to satisfy, and as we were within a short dis- 
 tance of Acapulco, where we were to take on coal, he 
 determined, on arriving, to have the body interred, fear- 
 ing their threats might be carried into execution. The 
 barrel was taken ashore and buried, thus making all con- 
 tent. The Captain informed the father where his son 
 was buried, and that it was his earnest request that he 
 should be taken home and buried where his parents and 
 friends could drop a tear, and strew flowers on his grave. 
 The Captain expected to receive a letter on his return 
 trip, requesting that the remains should be sent on, but 
 instead, the father said, coolly, that his son might as well 
 lie where he was ! Our money, falling into other hands 
 is not always used as we wish. 
 
 From Acapulco we had a pleasant trip to Panama, and 
 we are now anchored in front of the city. All who were 
 homeward bound felt that they were really quite near 
 New York. Some had crossed the Isthmus, and knew 
 
TUF. ADVF.NIURKS OK A CAPTAIN's WIFK. 43 
 
 wliat an undertaking il \va^, but most had come by the 
 overland route or round the Horn. Either delightful 
 comj)ared with what was in store for them. But it must 
 be crossed, as it lay between them and their friends. 
 What will not jieople endure for those they love.' 
 
 Few ladies had attempted this journey; at this time 
 there were (juile a number. Now comes the task of 
 1 licking out a mule that you think will carry you safely. 
 It is but little use to pick and choose; there they stand, 
 looking as meek as if they had no will of their own. 
 When you have paid your money and attempt to mount, 
 you will find they have all the will. In vain you try to 
 have your money refunded. Vou have made your choice 
 and must do the best you can with your bargain. It is 
 often a very bad one. Vou have bought your mule and 
 can do what you like with him. Their owners are well 
 aware that you only want the animal to cross with, and 
 they are certain that when he is gladly dismissed on the 
 other side he will return, to be resold and again return. 
 If they would only take you across it woidd not be so 
 bad a bargain, but they often break down, and if you 
 cannot obtain another you must go on foot. There is no 
 su( h thing as hurrying this peoj^le, it is always ** jjoco 
 tiemjjo." After a long and tedious time mules and mule- 
 teers got started; under different circumstances it would 
 have been amusing to see our party mounted. There a 
 man twice the size of his mule, and here a mule com- 
 pletely covered with baggage; the sick being carried in 
 hammocks by natives, the muleteers running alongside of 
 the mules, urging the animals, which are almost exhausted 
 with crossing and re-crossing. The muleteers carry a 
 strange looking knife, resembling a case knife, from 
 
44 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIn'S WIFE. 
 
 three to four feet in length ; with this they cut down all 
 obstacles, and do not hesitate to use it upon these over- 
 worked mules, having no mercy on the poor beasts. For 
 quite a distance from Panama the road is tolerably good, 
 and we went jogging along admiring the beautiful foliage, 
 all sorts of monkeys, jumping from one tree to another; 
 birds of the most brilliant plumes, some singing beauti- 
 fully, others screaming, all making their own peculiar 
 noise. The most wonderful bird is the scavenger, which 
 is protected by law ; they scarcely wait for the last breath 
 to leave the poor mule, which falls by the way, before 
 they begin to devour him. But they do not feed entirely 
 upon animals ; if any person was so unfortunate as to 
 die by the way, they were soon disposed of by these 
 birds. 
 
 No one but those who were on the spot will ever know 
 how people suffered who crossed this Isthmus. Our 
 good road soon came to an end ; we entered the swamps 
 where some of our weakest mules got mired, and after 
 fruitless attempts to rescue them they were left to die. 
 It would not do to waste time. 
 
 Now the baggage which had been strapped upon the 
 mule until one could scarcely see the poor animal, must 
 be taken off. A difficult matter to make a selection of 
 what must be thrown away and what retained, as no one 
 has taken more than seemed absolutely necessary for the 
 journey. But when we get into so tight a place that we 
 must choose between life and our treasures we can soon 
 decide, and so it was here. You would see entire ward- 
 robes spread out, and a few articles of clothing selected, 
 as in many cases the owner must take them upon his own 
 back. When he was loading the poor beast until not 
 
TUt ADVENTURKS OF A CAPTAIN's WIFE. 45 
 
 another article could be got upon him, he did not see the 
 Slough of Despond which would cause a change of load. 
 The mule, if he is as thoughtful as determined, would say, 
 if gifted like lialaam's ass, " Vou may load mc down, but 
 soon we .shall change places," then, perhaps, you would 
 feel, " if 1 had been more merciful my mule would not 
 have stuck fast in the mud, and I had not been compelled 
 to make such a sacrifii e. And all this is nothing com- 
 pared to my own misery.' It is the best policy to be mer- 
 ciful. Those who would not be considerate to the poor 
 animal, would heap burdens upon their neighbors. Some- 
 times they are compelled, as in this case, to shift the 
 pack in a way that comes too near home. 
 
 It does seem as if there was no bottom to these mire 
 holes. If there is, no poor unfortunate that has gone 
 down has ever returned to report experience. It was 
 enough for us to know that our mules often went out of 
 our sight. The mules, if permitted to have their own 
 way, will shun these dangerous places; instinct teaches 
 them to avoid places they can't get out of, and you cannot 
 always say as much of their masters. There are several 
 children in the party, who are carried upon the backs of 
 natives in a rude sort of chair; it could not have been 
 far removed from those in which Eve's babies were car- 
 ried, they certainly could not have had any ruder speci- 
 mens. These are strapped upon the backs of natives 
 with strips of hide. These natives adhere most scrupu- 
 lously to .Vdam's costume before he left the garden. The 
 poor childprn were so much amazed that they did not 
 dare to cry. My little boy, then about two, would put 
 out his hands imploring every time he came near me. 
 
46 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN's WIFE. 
 
 Before we got across, the children grew quite fond of 
 their nurses, or the sugar cane they gave them. 
 
 The forest here looks as if it had nothing else to 
 do but to grow ; all sorts of beautiful trees and plants ; 
 immense leaves, from ten to twenty feet long, banannas, 
 pineapples, bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, all waiting to be 
 plucked by whoever wants. The cocoa-nut is used prin- 
 cipally for the milk ; they pierce it and drink the refresh- 
 ing liquid. The bread-fruit must be roasted to make it 
 palatable, then it can be cut into slices. One would say, 
 '' How favored is this people ; how thankful they must be 
 for so many blessings ; they have never been deprived of 
 them and do not know how to appreciate them. Occa- 
 sionally we came to cool springs in the mountains, and 
 there would dismount and refresh ourselves. All around 
 were beautiful flowers ; one of the most lovely is called 
 the Holy Ghost flower. It is like the purest white wax, 
 and resembles a dove with spread wings. These people 
 have the greatest reverence for this singular flower, and 
 disliked to have us pluck it. Of course it is a super- 
 stition, but for all that, it revealed a tenderness of heart, 
 their cherishing protection of this frail little flower. 
 
 Whenever we made a halt, the inquisitive monkeys 
 would collect in the tops of trees and chatter as only 
 monkeys can. It even exceeds a country sewing society. 
 Perhaps they detected some resemblance. A gentleman 
 shot one, and it cried in such a human way that he felt 
 as though he had committed murder. 
 
 Sometimes the mule would take it into his head to try 
 the woods, and then you had better look out for your 
 clothing. If you ever got back into the path, with hair 
 dishevelled and garments torn, you may consider yourself 
 
THE ADVENTURKS OF A CAPTAIN's WIFl . 47 
 
 fortunate. Those donkeys have but little regard for 
 { lolhing, knowing their masters do not indulge in such 
 superfluities. It was surprising to see the clothing that 
 was strewn all across the way. Handsome oven oats, 
 enough to make the fortune of a Chatham Street pawn- 
 broker. A good mule and a strong umbrella are indis- 
 pensable If one has these, they may consider themselves 
 fortunate. Sometimes we must go down mountains that 
 were like the side of a five-sior) house. In making the 
 lies* ent, to avoid slipping head fir>t, we must turn and 
 hold fast to the tail, a proceeding more comforting to us 
 than the animal, and in ascending, we clasped both arms 
 around his neck. Such a loving crowd in ascending, 
 so humble, when we descended. If this mode of travel 
 lasts long, the mules will soon have neither head nor tail. 
 The houses are something to be admired for their airy 
 look. They have the appearance of a roof (3n stilts. 
 
 How the people ]>rolect themselves against the wild 
 beasts, is something we could not understand. They 
 know what to protect themselves against. The little 
 li/ard, so repulsive to us, is as harmless as a fly, and not 
 half so disagreeable. The ants here are a fearful i)est, and 
 there are many varieties. No one that has ever tried to 
 separate them from the sugar will call them lazy. I 
 never saw any one cooking but twi{ e ; once they were 
 boiling squash, and the other rice, whi( h from the sicken- 
 ing smell, we judged had been kept a little too long in 
 that hot climate. We did not care to get near enough 
 to find out what it was. On one occasion we saw 
 some picaninnies b'-inging watermelons, and at first sight 
 the melons looked as though they had legs and were 
 running towards us, as if they had picked themselves, and 
 
48 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN'S WIFE. 
 
 were now coming to be eaten. But when they came 
 nearer, we saw one of Adam's boys behind each melon. 
 I was ready to believe anything, as I had heard such 
 marvellous stories from those who had crossed the 
 Isthmus. The melons that grow here are not like those we 
 are accustomed to. They are like an old-fashioned churn, 
 such as you see in the country, being from two to three feet 
 in length, and sometimes more than a foot through. 
 They certainly look big enough to run alone. 
 
 We constantly met people bound for Panama; they 
 looked as though they expected to " see the elephant," 
 and they probably thought we looked as though we had 
 seen it. If seeing the elephant signifies going through 
 any amount of difficulties, we have, most assuredly. It 
 is said misery loves company, if this is the case, each 
 company saw enough to satisfy the most depraved. We 
 have one comfort ; this experience cannot last long, if we 
 don't break our necks, we shall soon bid good-bye to our 
 mules and muleteers. And if we do, they will bid fare- 
 well to us and turn us over to the tender mercies of the 
 scavenger bird. Some of our mules proved to be far 
 better than we could ever have thought — and others 
 worse than the most vivid imagination could depict. As 
 for my donkey, he was as thoughtful as he looked, shun- 
 ning all the bad places he possibly could. I soon found 
 he knew far more than I did, and was quite willing to 
 acknowledge it and let him have his own way. And I 
 think he appreciated this confidence, as when on one 
 occasion I went over his head into the mud, instead of 
 his leaving me, he stood close by, as much as to say, " I am 
 sorry for you, I will do my part, and you must do the rest." 
 When I was again on his back, he trotted along proudly, 
 
THE ADVENTURKS OF A CAPTAIN S WIFE. 49 
 
 as much as to say, " I have not left my rider in the mud." 
 I should have gladly brought him with me, if it were 
 l)ossible. But it would have dejirived others, who were 
 compelled to cross, of a valuable companion. As we 
 were riding along, seeing so much that was strange, our 
 Yankee propensity was urging us to fmd out what they 
 were. Hut for once, we were defeated. We might as 
 well a>k the mules we rode, as the muleteers that ran 
 alongside, unless wc were so forUmate as to understand 
 Spanish. I never shall forget the one word " Cararnba !" 
 .md the accompanying slap of the long knives on the sides 
 of those poor mules. If these umbras got hold of a pistol, 
 ihey thought themselves made; and it mattered little 
 whetlier it was good for anytiiing or not. They would 
 dro[) it in the mud and water, but this did not hurt it for 
 their use. It will not be long, however, before they will 
 learn the use of fire-arms. 
 
 We frequently came to streams where the banks on 
 either side were fully fifty feel high, the mules climbing 
 these banks, which seems impossible. But they put their 
 little feet firmly in the earth, and if you keep firmly hold, 
 they will bring you safely through. 
 
 In the rainy seasons the streams overtlow the banks, 
 and then the mules must swim across. The heavy 
 showers that fall belong entirely to this tropical climate; 
 the streams rising thirty or forty feet in a few hours. 
 A short time before we crossed, a man and his wife and 
 two » hildren were carried down the stream. One expe- 
 riencing the effect of a shower here will never be likely 
 to forget his thorough ducking. We often came to passes 
 that seem to be cut through the rock, just wide enough 
 for one mule to pass through at a time; in meeting, one 
 
50 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN S WIFE, 
 
 must back out, as there is no possibility of passing. If a 
 mule falls, here he must remain, all passing over him. I 
 remember my mule walking over one, still alive ; it almost 
 seemed as if he were stepping on me. Before entering 
 these gorges a muleteer advances, hallowing, to warn 
 others not to approach until his party is safely through. 
 Sometime there must have been a road across here, as 
 spots of the paving remain here and there, but earth- 
 quakes and time, with heavy rain-falls have destroyed it. 
 After travelling all day through gorges, up hills, mired in 
 swamps, fording streams, we stopped where we were to 
 spend the night. Our hotel did not look very inviting, 
 although it was the best this part of the country afforded. 
 When we have the best we should be content. This 
 hotel was a building of four posts, with a roof, a ham- 
 mock or two stretched underneath for the comfort of the 
 guests ; there were several of these hotels. It was much 
 better than to have been in the open air, as the roof pro- 
 tected us from the rain. Coffee is to be had, such as it 
 is ; some sugar, but no milk. The sugar is so filled with 
 black ants one cannot take the trouble to separate them. 
 We drank coffee as we should have taken medicine, as 
 we felt the need of something. If one does not provide 
 food for themselves they will not be likely to find it here, 
 the natives giving themselves little trouble in cooking, living 
 almost entirely upon fruits. 
 
 Before the rush to California they had plenty of 
 chickens, now they cannot supply so many. We were 
 glad to be under shelter, and slept, although the lizards 
 were running over us all night ; these little things being 
 perfectly harmless, but rather too familiar to please 
 people unaccustomed to them. Our sleep was sound, 
 
THK ADVENIL'RES OF A CAriAlNS WIFE. 51 
 
 and nothing disturbed it until morning; wc woke to find 
 the muleteers collecting our mules, for on arriving here 
 they had turned them loose, to feed ui)on whatever they 
 might find. This is not much, since there is no gra^s. 
 They feed upon the leaves and weed^; the poor things 
 after their tedious journey are obliged to seek enough to 
 live unon for the next day's journey. Wc did not see 
 how they could be got together the next morning, but 
 they did come. The natives under.sland this climate and 
 take matters easily, which is the only way to do. They 
 are called weak and la/y, but they carry enormous packs 
 across the Isthmus. About a mile beyond Cruces is an 
 immense anchor, how it came there none (an tell, al- 
 though some say that Captain Kidd, the pirate, was tak- 
 ing it to Panama ; this is a mere supposition, but if it 
 were so, there must have been a better way of trans- 
 porting things than at present. Nearing Cruces we find 
 the road something better; this was good news, as we all 
 fell we could not endure such hardships much longer. 
 On reaching this place we find it to be a dirty little town, the 
 houses much the same as those we had seen elsewhere, only 
 more numerous. Here is an old church, into which 
 persons, mules and goats wander as they please. Here 
 we bid adieu to our mules. We had really be( t»mc 
 attached to these poor creatures, and felt sorry to think 
 they must turn about, going back with the passengers 
 waiting here, to California. lUit we had little time to 
 spend in symjathy for anything but ourselves. Here we 
 were huddled together in this town, which could not accom- 
 modate properly one hundred persons, and there were 
 more than two thousand. Soon as the passengers can be 
 taken off the boats we are ready to go on board, feeling 
 
52 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN S WIFE. 
 
 that these boats were an improvement compared with our 
 manner of travelUng, but those who came up on the 
 boats thought diiferently. Here we obtained tortillas, 
 yams, and stewed chickens, as we thought, but it was whis- 
 pered by knowing ones that it was "Jocco." The sug- 
 gestion was not pleasant. When we saw the native wo- 
 men making tortillas and baking upon dirty stones, we 
 did not feel inclined to eat them. 
 
 At this point navigation ceases. The bungoes are here 
 gathered together, and we are preparing to embark. The 
 boatmen say we shall have a long trip down, as the water 
 is getting low. The Chagres river being a strange one 
 from this fact, that when the water is high, there is 
 danger of having their boats entangled in the tops of 
 trees ; when low, must get out, dragging them over shoal 
 places, and this was troublesome enough. We antici- 
 pated on reaching this place that it would not be long 
 before we should see the Atlantic, and on board the steam- 
 ship, and homeward bound, but we were doomed to 
 disappointment, being so long upon the river, was very 
 unpleasant. The bungoes had few comforts upon them ; 
 sometimes they had an awning, sometimes not, and in 
 case of a shower you were drenched. When the rain 
 ceased, the. sun is so powerful here that it shone down 
 scorchingly. It was sometime before we got ready to 
 start; those persons who were supplying us with food 
 being anxious to retain us as long as possible, there being 
 plenty of men who could not endure to see the gold 
 leave the place. Many a robbery was placed upon poor 
 natives that was committed by our own people. 
 
 After the day is pretty well spent in preparations, we 
 leave this town, hoping to reach the Atlantic in safety. 
 
THE ADVENTURF.*; OF A CAPTAINS WIFE. 53 
 
 We are to expert diffirulties, trials and delays for five or 
 six days, perhaps longer. The bungoes are something 
 between a s<:o\v and row-boat, and will acrommodate 
 from ten to twenty persons. Of course it is < ustomary to 
 crowd them, and we did not object, as safety was to be 
 thought of in point of numbers. 
 
 On the first night our boatman tied the bimgoe to a 
 tree on shore, leaving us to ourselves. Our boat had an 
 awning over it. so we decided to remain on board. 
 When the boatmen left us some of the passengers fol- 
 lowed them and found them in a hut dancing a fandango. 
 They found this to be the custom of the country, so we 
 decided our boat was to be tied to the shore, our fears 
 were quieted that they were in no worse (]uarters. We were 
 prevented from sleeping by this dancing, and they be- 
 cause of their fun. Soon as it was daylight some of the 
 party went in search of them, finding them lying asleep 
 in the bushes. By rousing one, and paying him, he 
 moved awav, as was supposed, to the boat ; a second and 
 third being similarly roused and paid, but a// had decided 
 thev were not ready to go, so hid themselves away again, 
 determined to move only when they were ready. So we 
 were obliged to < ontenl ourselves and look about for 
 breakfast, which consisted of fruit alone, this being all 
 we could obtain, and that to be eaten sparingly. About 
 nine o'clock we were off. hoj>ing we should not meet with 
 another fandango at night, feeling a little more comforta- 
 ble and enjoying the scenery. The river banks are cov- 
 ered with crocodiles, snakes and lizards, and the cham- 
 eleon, the strangest of all. As he ran along whatever he 
 crosses, of that color was he ; green grass, he was green ; 
 over the brown earth, he was brown ; he is from two to 
 
54 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN S WIFE. 
 
 three feet in length, and his flesh said to be suitable for 
 food. In the tree tops and in the bushes, and along the 
 banks, are thousands of monkeys chattering , parrots 
 also, of every description, and birds of brilliant color ; 
 vines drooping from the trees to the water below. The 
 trees, banks and hills all covered with flowers of the 
 brightest hues, but it is not safe to pluck them, as the 
 most beautiful are poisonous. Here surrounded by every- 
 thing so lovely, we were miserable. I could but think 
 our cold northern winter preferable. 
 
 We are voyaging on, congratulating ourselves upon the 
 progress made, when our boatmen suddenly halted. We 
 did not think it late in the afternoon, but they did. This 
 time the passengers accompanied them, and reached the 
 'hotel,' which, wonderful to relate, disclosed beds, two or 
 three cots with sacking covering. We hoped our boat- 
 men would be content to sleep here ; but we were mis- 
 taken ; they were soon started for the village and another 
 fandango. They never tire of this diversion. Our re- 
 freshments were tortillas, coffee and another " stew," the 
 ingredients of which we did not care to inquire into, 
 deciding it best to eat and question not Here grow 
 watermelons of monstrous siz^, with banannas and pine- 
 apples, which tempted many to eat, afterwards becoming 
 ill in consequence. 
 
 Again we find it difficult to start off, our boatmen, as 
 they had lost two nights sleep, and did not care if they 
 reached Chagres in five or ten days. Enjoyment seems 
 to be the business of their lives, being as happy as the 
 monkeys, frolicking and chattering. It is plain that the 
 more civilized we become, the more difficult it is to live. 
 
 It was amusing to see the women washing ; they rub 
 
THE ADVENTURF.S OF A CAPTAls's WIFK. 55 
 
 the clothing wiih soap-root, something growing liere 
 which resembles an onion, and wading into the water, 
 they obtain a large, tlat stone, and i»la( ing the ( lothes up- 
 on it they pound them with another, and after rinsing, 
 spreading them on the sand to dry. As they are drying, 
 they go from one piece to another, pulling and smoothing 
 them into shape — this is all the ironing they get. lUii 
 there is not much washing, the women who indulge in 
 clothing at all, wearing but one garment, tlounc ed from 
 tup to bottom, and often made as neatly as any lady 
 could make them. They also embroider very neatly, 
 having a way of their own, pulling out threads and replac- 
 ing them with their own ingenuity. If they have a towel, 
 it will be embroidered at both ends. In Panama )ou see 
 some of this work that is i)eautiful. 'I'he pantaloons 
 of the men are of white linen ; they who have a wardrobe 
 are, of course, of the " upper ten ; " the common people not 
 troubling themselves with so trifling a matter \\n\ will 
 notice that in the more uncivilized j)ortions of the world, 
 that the women are more industrious than the men. We 
 could always tell when we were Hearing one of their towns, 
 by the cjuantities t)f j)icaninnies swimming in the river. 
 Vou would almost think they were a tlock of ducks, being 
 about the same color, and they can swim eipially as well. 
 Every now ami then you see a small row-boat with a 
 fairy-looking Senorita clipping along so smoothly. At 
 first sight, one would think she was flying. Many of these 
 young ladies are extremely pretty, and with their peculiar 
 dress and a pretty little Panama hat, a sweet and simple 
 picture that lends en( hantment to the scene. It may be 
 truly said of these: they '* paddle their own canoe." 
 The scene is lovely beyond description, surrounded as 
 
56 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN's WIFE. 
 
 they are, by all these tropical trees and vines, and fruit 
 and flowers, and not a single care. They know nothing 
 but this, and are happy. No end to this beautiful 
 scenery ; it is forever the same. When one tree has run 
 its course, it falls and another takes its place. No chil- 
 ling blasts ever intrude on this paradise. How different 
 it was with us — poison in every flower, monsters at every 
 turn, death in all the fruit. We knew too much and 
 were miserable. The natives told us there were some 
 large sugar plantations back in the country. We saw 
 plenty of it, but it was made in cakes looking like maple 
 sugar, only somewhat darker. The people and the sugar 
 have nearly the same hue, a little refining might benefit 
 both. Coffee also grows freely ; you can always obtain 
 that and Chilian peppers, if nothing else. It is said the 
 people eat so much pepper and garlic, that the turkey- 
 buzzard refuses to eat them when they are dead. What 
 little I have seen of these ravenous birds, I should think 
 a little salt and pepper would be just the thing. 
 
 Occasionally you see numbers of huts along the river 
 banks. In hammocks slung from one tree to another, 
 may be seen lazy ' hombres ' swinging to and fro. The 
 hammock is of great use to the people here, and is made 
 of almost any kind of strong bark. 
 
 Our boatmen insisted on stopping often along the way, 
 calling upon their friends, while we would leave the 
 bungoe and walk about ; although there was little 
 pleasure in this, especially as we were told of the trouble- 
 some and dangerous insects, everywhere to be met with 
 in the sand. The gigger once beneath the skin of the feet, 
 you must remove them speedily, or the consequences will 
 be disastrous. This insect resembles a small maggott, 
 
thf: advenil-res of a captain s wife. 57 
 
 when it inserts itself under the skin, it causes severe irri- 
 tation, all of which the natives understand, but we pre- 
 ferred to escape from such an experience. 
 
 As wc proceed, showers are less frequent, conse<iuently 
 the water is low, and our men arc obliged to use long 
 poles to propel the boat over shoal places, doing better 
 than one would suppose, as they are so unused to labor. 
 The ll)ird night it was after dark before our boat was 
 made fast. We had heard of boats being capsized, 
 and were glad to remain upon the boat and get what 
 sleep we could there. Many boats had come up with us, 
 there being so many passengers, ai ( i)min()(Liti()ns were im- 
 possible to be had. 
 
 To-night, our boatmen being pretty well laligiicd with 
 previous rcvcllini:. retired earlier fr^m their dissipation 
 and dancin^ 
 
 Again on the move, and iMttenn- (.uimiw^ ih.il ai 
 nightfall we may be at Chagres. Sometimes we were in 
 company with the other boats, pleased to keep together 
 as much as possible. We made better time to-day than 
 since we started, and are as cheerful as circumstances will 
 permit. Suddenly our boat is headed for the shore, 
 running it upon a sandy bank, and our boatmen went 
 away to pluck sugar-cane, which grows here in great 
 (juantities : they care for little else if this is within reach. 
 They had been absent but a little while, when our ears 
 were filled with the bellowing of a wild bull, roaring as 
 nothing else can. Not a cheerful position with our boat 
 dragged upon the sand, and our protectors, we knew not 
 where. We concluded it would not be safe to .shove off 
 the boat before their return, as we depended entirely on 
 their guidance. Luckily, they too heard the creature's 
 
58 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN's WIFE. 
 
 roar, and suddenly made their appearance, evidently as 
 glad to seek the boat as we vvere to have them. Instantly 
 they darted in and pushed off, and the maddened bull 
 appeared upon the very spot, roaring and tearing up the 
 earth in every direction. They declared that, had the 
 water been shallow, nothing would have saved us from 
 the fury of the beast. For a long time he followed upon 
 the bank, where we could hear his bellowing. Finally a 
 bend in the river bore us from him, and indeed we were 
 thankful to escape. Wild hogs are numerous and create 
 great terror among the natives, who fear them as we do 
 bears. 
 
 We find, after all, that if we must be in this country, 
 our "hombres" are really necessary. After our escape, 
 we did not feel like complaining of anything, so went 
 upon our way quietly, concluding our fright was not with- 
 out its lesson, since our boatmen did not now care to stop 
 by the way so often. Shortly after this, they informed us 
 that in all probability we should reach Chagres before 
 dark, which was joyful news, indeed ; and we willingly 
 forgave these poor fellows who had been the cause of our 
 sleepless nights, but shall not soon forget our efforts at 
 keeping cool, with the thermometer at 120. 
 
 Our fears were awakened by thinking that the steamer 
 w^ould not be at the place of destination to meet us on 
 our arrival. However, as the river widened, and being 
 told we were near its mouth, we became less apprehen- 
 sive, knowing it must lead us to what we so much desired. 
 
 At last the long-looked for Chagres was in sight, a 
 miserable collection of huts. This was not what we 
 strained our eyes to see. And then we turned a short 
 bend in the river, and the first object that met our view 
 
THE ADVF.NTURES OF A CAl'TMNS WIFK. 59 
 
 wa> ihe glorious Stars and Stripes wavini; from the top- 
 mast of the steamship. How every American loves this 
 flas ! if he does not, he has no claim to the name. In all 
 foreign countries, it seems to say, " Protection to Ameri- 
 cans. " If we have never been out of its sight, we know 
 not how much we love our national emblem. 
 
 We did not wait here long before the steamer's boats 
 were sent to take us on board, which caused us much 
 delight. Many of our passengers had already arrived, 
 and looked as comfortable as though tiiey had never seen 
 a bungo. Their change was like the chameleon. 
 
 The boats kept coming down the river until all were 
 reported on board, and all were anxious to know if every- 
 one has arrived. How sympathizing we are with those 
 who are in trouble like ourselves. It is a good thing 
 having these lessons, as we discover that wo h ivc more 
 interest in others than we supjjosed. In prosperity we are 
 apt to be |)roud, selfish, overbearing and disagreeable. 
 
 Having once got ** cleaned up," we begin to look for 
 something good to eat. The meat on the steamer is none 
 of the best, having been brought from New York, but 
 there was plenty of other food. 
 
 Early the ne.xt morning we got off, and some of our 
 *' hombres " came out to bid us good bye. The first day out 
 we have heavy rains, with such thunder and lightning as no 
 other place can boast, but it would take more than this to 
 make us un< on\^ortable. 
 
 .\fter a few days we came in sigiu of the bcaiititul 
 Island of Jamaica. Long before we reached Kingston 
 the fragrance of orange groves was wafted to us, as if to 
 say "Welcome." Wc went ashore and found it to be 
 
6o THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN's WIFE. 
 
 lovely indeed, but like the South American places, dirty, 
 and the people miserable. 
 
 Here we were to take in coal. I had heard this work 
 was done by women, but when I saw the operation was 
 completely disgusted. Large tubs are filled with coal 
 while the lazy men standing by, would occasionally lend 
 a hand, raising the tubs to the heads of the women, who 
 trotted along with their loads, singing their native songs. 
 Doubtless their masters compel them to sing in order to 
 make a show of their being happy. 
 
 The American Consul was a friend of ours previous to 
 coming here, and we found that he had married a native 
 woman, who was extremely pretty and fair complexioned 
 compared with those about her. One of her nieces had 
 recently returned from Europe, where she had been edu- 
 cated. I was somewhat astonished on meeting her to 
 fmd her no fairer than an African of the truest type. 
 
 The Consul lives in as much style as this country 
 affords, his house being spacious and elegant; each 
 bedroom large enough for a reception room, the floors 
 inlaid with woods of different colors, and daily pol- 
 ished with pure orange juice, this process commen- 
 cing at four o'clock in the morning. At five a servant 
 brings a cup of coffee, which must be taken, as it is con- 
 sidered a necessary accompaniment to the toilet, but I 
 preferred taking a nap, having been kept awake by the 
 polishing process. Breakfast was served at six o'clock ; 
 fruit is then eaten, this being the most suitable time in 
 this country. Breakfast over, a carriage was in readiness 
 for a drive, my seat being beside the niece, whom I found 
 to be an agreeable young woman. Evidently without a 
 thought of her jet black complexion, and her charming 
 
THK ADVENTURKS OF A CAPTAIN S WIFE. 6l 
 
 conversation led mc to forget it also. We had a delight- 
 ful drive, among orange groves and through the town. 
 The flower of the cactus arc as various as numerous, and 
 here is an alnindantc of coffee grown, together wiih all 
 kinds of tropical fruit, and it is not astonishing that the 
 inhabitants are indolent, they really lie down under the 
 trees and wait for fruit to fall. I have seen instances of 
 this laziness my.self. 
 
 The principal orange groves lie back of the town, 
 and among mountains, and it is said the climate is cool. 
 Notwithstanding our agreeable visit, we were charmed to 
 learn that the steamer was ready tn sail, their being much 
 sickness in Jamaica. 
 
 On our way we saw numeiuu^ iMaiui^ rtncred with 
 orange trees, and many a mile we sniffed their fragrance. 
 It is expected that no more stops will be made by the 
 steamer until we reach New York. Between here and 
 the Island of Cuba are several dangerous channels, these 
 we were willing to pass through without making a call. 
 
 The second day out, we spoke a steamer bound for 
 Chagres, and obtained papers from New York, which was 
 really a treat, and as there were but two or three, and 
 each passenger must see them, they were passing all day 
 from one to another, and many questions were asked. 
 When they had gone the rounds they looked as poor and 
 dilapidated as though they too had crossed the Isthmus. 
 When one sees a newspaper daily, it often seems as if it 
 contained but little news, but be deprived of them a month 
 or more and every word is read with great interest. 
 
 Now, "tJie Island of Cuba looms up ahead," " Land " is 
 called out, and all eyes are turned in the direction indicated, 
 and a juvenile rushing into the cabin assures his mother that 
 
62 THE ADVENTURES OF A CAPTAIN's WIFE. 
 
 " Cupid is to be seen," which news makes an old lady 
 laugh, saying, " Young man, I don't think you have yet 
 seen Cupid." It was not many hours before we were run- 
 ning alongside, the passengers willing to proceed on the 
 voyage, having seen so much misery and beauty combined, 
 if they were weighed, I do not know which would out- 
 weigh the other. 
 
 These islands are very beautiful. We were near enough 
 to inhale the odor of the flowers; had we seen nothing 
 more of South America than this, we should have thought 
 this indeed the paradise of the world ; but we do not for- 
 get the reptiles, poisonous flowers and bugs ; so we leave 
 this tropical luxuriance without regrets, soon will meet 
 the cool breezes of our northern clime, and intend never 
 to complain of cold weather again. 
 
 We reached the wonderful Gulf Stream, the atmosphere 
 appearing entirely different, being murky and smoky. 
 
 Once across, and all hot weather is left behind. Every 
 sail we meet with, seems like the face of a friend. Most 
 of our number are Americans, who had left some part of 
 the United States for California about a year before ; 
 some had crossed the plains, some gone round the Horn, 
 all had their troubles, which were not a few, and all began 
 to count the revolutions of the wheel, propelled by the 
 engine, straining their eyes for the first glimpse of land. 
 
 It was not long before it was shouted, " Land Ahead ! " 
 and never had these words been more welcome than at 
 this time ; nor will these words ever be greeted with louder 
 shouts than when our passengers, with one accord, shouted 
 them from stem to stern. A pilot soon came on board, 
 and shortly after, our steamship was running into the 
 
THK ADVENTLRKS OF A CAPTAIN's WIl K. 63 
 
 harbor of New York, if not the finest, one of the finest in 
 the world. 
 
 A thought comes sending our blood chilling through 
 our veins, like a snow s(juall in December ; we ask our- 
 selves : *' Shall we meet all those we left behind ? " 
 
 The sight of Fort Hamilton breaks in upon our sad 
 reverie, and a knowledge of there being something to do, 
 besides thinking, as we are nearing home. 
 
 Next, Castle Garden is in full view; most places here 
 change; but this building is like an old and tried friend; it 
 remains the same. When our steamer neared the docks, 
 the place appeared as one mass of human beings, and 
 every one upon the steamer looking an.xiously to see if 
 friends awaited their coming. 
 
 Then the lines were thrown ashore and made fast ; and 
 not many minutes passed before friends were greeting 
 friends. I thought, '* Where are those who left this place 
 one year ago for the golden land ? Some few only are 
 here." 
 
 Passengers bid good-bye tQ each other, and then cheers 
 have been given for the steamer ; the sailors have gone 
 ashore to take the cup of welcome with friends, and pos- 
 sibly some of the officers have followed their example. 
 And I now bid the reader adieu ; if you have been inter 
 ,«.». .1 -n my narrative, I am well repaid 
 
LEAg'12