F 127 . S34 H8 I Copy 1 «* MShi THROUGH WATKINS GLEN CI •^ fl THE OLD MILLff ffir DESCRIPTIVE AND ILLUSTRATED GUIDE BOOK OF THE FAMOUS WATKINS GLEN A NEW YORK STATE RESERVATION LOCATED AT WATKINS SCHUYLER CO., N. Y. (HEAD OF SENECA LAKE) FIRST EDITION, 1916 PUBLISHED FOR THE HOPE SOUVENIR SHOP COMPILED BY J. D. HOPE, Agent COPYRIGHTED, 1916, BY J. D. HOPE, AGENT WATK1NS, N. Y M4V 27 1916 'CI.A433215 HE village of Watkins was named after its founder, Dr. Samuel Watkins, a native of England; and was included in the Watkins and Flint purchase. This tract of 350,000 acres was obtained from the State in 1794, by |ohn W. Watkins and Royal R. Flint, representing a syndicate of promi- nent men, and covered a large tract of country around the head of Seneca Lake. Dr. Watkins succeeded to the title of his elder brother's estate at his death, and became the owner of 25,000 acres of land. He came to this locality to reside in the year 1828, where he found only a small hamlet, of between two and three hundred inhabitants. The first settlement having been made in 1788, nine years after the Sullivan expedition, he named it Salubria, a most appropriate name in view of the climatic conditions. He built the Jefferson House, Glen National Bank building, together with several resi- dences; mapped and laid out the village, presented it with a public park, and had it incorporated April 11, 1842, under the name of Jefferson. He married Miss Cynthia A. Cass, an intelligent and well-educated lady of this village, and died in 1851, aged 80 years, leaving to his widow under his will nearly all of his estate. She subsequently married the late Judge George G. Freer, who came to Jefferson from Ithaca in 1851, and at her death made him her principal legatee. Through his influence the name of the village was changed, in 1852, from Jefferson to Watkins, as a fitting tribute to the memory of its founder. He did much for the progress and prosperity of the village : obtaining a new charter in 1861, organized the first bank, and was the leading spirit in establishing the county seat permanently at Watkins in 1868; also, mainly instrumental in the erection of the main building now occupied by the "Glen Springs, " and, in connection with the Hon. John Magee, presented Glenwood Cemetery (over 22 acres) to the village; he also donated the site for the school house, together with the land whereon the Schuyler County buildings are located. He died in 1878, aged 69 years, having ever been a munificent friend and patron of his adopted home. Within the limits of Dr. Watkins' domain reposed for many years, in silence and solitude, the now famous Watkins Glen. The stream that formed it was originally rated as a mill site, and from the number located thereon, in early times, was known for many years as Mill Creek, but with the passing of the industries connected therewith, and its opening as a summer resort, the name it now bears ("Glen Creek") was bestowed upon it. The location of the village is partly on a rocky hill sparsely covered with soil, and a flat, composed of sand and gravel, that has been washed down from the surrounding hills, filling up the deep gorge, a mile wide and three miles long, that was once the continuance of Seneca Lake, and in the center of which a depth of 1,200 feet has failed to find the rock. The stream issuing from the rocky I 3 ] portals of the Glen has had its share in bringing down the material that has filled up this immense cavity, and geologists have estimated that more than 30,000 years have been required in its formation. Through many years the deposits in the valley caused the stream to shift from time to time, north, south or east, wherever the land was lowest, and when Dr. Watkins erected saw and flouring mills within the rocky walls of the amphitheater, he opened for it a new channel half a mile long, due east from the mouth of the gorge, for the more direct flow of its waters. This is its present course, but even now, with the limited amount of silt brought down in times of freshets, dredging has to be resorted to every few years to keep it within bounds. There is no doubt but that in ancient times it must have had a large popula- tion of aborigines, as many relics, exhumed in making excavations for cellars, sewers, etc., go to prove; but nothing in the form of a name seems to have sur- vived. Montour Falls, three miles south, is the site of "Catherinestown," the only Indian village mentioned in the annals of Sullivan's expedition as being at the head of the Lake, which they passed on the highlands east of the valley. Catherine Montour was Queen of the Senecas, whose power was destroyed by this expedition. In 1863, the idea of unsealing this mysterious "book of nature," and opening its successive pages to the eyes of the "outer world," was conceived by M. Ells, a resident of Watkins, who deserves great credit for the measures he took to carry out his plan — by the construction of staircases, pathways, railings, bridges, and a miniature chalet, called the "Evergreen," perched on a shelf of rock near the north end of the present suspension bridge (which connects the banks of the gorge at the site of the old Glen Mountain House), and by announcing, through the press of the surrounding country, that on and after the 4th of July, 1863, Watkins Glen would be open as a summer resort for visitors, and a claimant for a share of the favors annually bestowed upon Niagara Falls, Saratoga Springs, White Mountains, Thousand Islands, Mammoth Cave, etc. The popular response far exceeded the most sanguine expectations. From 8,000 to 10,000 visited the Glen during the balance of the season, and their num- ber has continued to increase annually. From the time of its opening until acquired by the State of New York many years of successful management, by different proprietors, gave it a world-wide reputation, and the dream of the Pioneer, who sleeps in beautiful Glenwood cemetery, came true at last. The names of John }. Lytle, Amos }. Michiner, and Capt. James Hope will ever be associated with the successful management and scenic beauties of Watkins Glen; the two former as proprietors and mana- gers, who built the noted "Glen Mountain House." The latter, a celebrated New York artist, whose reputation as a painter of glen scenery and war pictures had become world-wide, was attracted by glowing newspaper articles and came to [ "4 1 the glen in 1872, where he erected a small cottage and art gallery, which was conducted in unison with the glen management, and during the remaining twenty years of his life transferred to canvas many scenes of this beautiful place, the most widely known being his celebrated "Rainbow Falls," 6x8 feet in size, which has been exhibited in different parts of the country, and with eighty others from his gallery was shown in the New York State building during the "Pan-American Exposition" at Buffalo in 1901. In 1906, "The Watkins Glen Reservation," containing about 105 acres, was acquired from the Andrew H. Green estate of New York City for the sum of $46,512.50, and forever reserved as a State Park for the purpose of preserving it in its natural condition; to be kept open and free of access to all mankind, with- out fee, charge, or expense to any person, for entering upon or passing to or from any part thereof. It was placed under the jurisdiction of the American Scenic and Historic Preservation Society, and its management was placed in the hands of a commis- sion, several of whom were local residents. Most of the permanent work as it now appears was completed during the four or five years it remained under this society. In 191 1, the jurisdiction and control, by an act of legislature, passed from the Scenic Society and was vested in a local board of five commissioners, and in 1915 the number was increased to seven. They are appointed by the governor, and the term of one expires each year. No salaries are attached to the office, but they have power to appoint and fix the compensation of a secretary, superintendent, caretaker, etc., also make rules and regulations for the successful management of the Reservation. Since it became State property many changes have taken place. All of the buildings origi- nally connected with the management have been removed : old wooden stair- cases, bridges and railings have been replaced with tunnels, iron and concrete construction, which makes for safety, greater durability, and facility of explo- ration. Effecting these various changes and improvements many times the original cost has been expended. The property has a frontage of several hundred feet. That on Franklin Street is marked by a massive stone wall, composed of granite boulders of a variety of colors and shapes, gathered from the vicinity within a radius of ten miles. It is pierced by a large arched gateway at the center for the accommodation of autos, teams, etc., and a smaller one at the north corner, for pedestrians. A rein- forced concrete bridge, built by the State, carries the brick-paved street over the stream, and a concrete retaining wall on the north side of the creek extends from the bridge nearly 1,000 feet to the entrance tunnel. Watkins contains a population of about 3,000, and is reached by the Lehigh Valley R. R. on the east hills (Station, Burdett), Pennsylvania R. R., Northern Central division in the valley, New York Central R. R. (Pennsylvania division), [ 5 : on west hill, station at railroad bridge crossing Glen. It is also connected with Elmira by trolley and boat service over Seneca Lake from Geneva in the summer, and is the center of macadam State roads from all directions. The two principal streets, Franklin and Fourth, each a mile or more in length, are brick and macadam paved. It owns its own system of water works, sewers, electric light plant, etc. Both natural and artificial gas are available. Two large salt blocks are located here, with a daily output of thousands of barrels. A fine large school building with an up-to-date curriculum and faculty. The prominent summer resort features other than the glen are the "Glen Springs Sanitarium" and Seneca Lake. The former, one of the most noted and up-to-date institutions on the American continent has catered to thousands from every clime and country, and the system of baths and treatments, coupled with its wonderful mineral springs, are pronounced equal to any on earth. It remains open all the year and caters to a coterie of summer visitors. Seneca Lake, thirty-six miles long and from one to five miles wide, is the largest and most remarkable of the finger lakes of Central New York. With an average depth of 600 feet it fills an immense gorge with sparkling cold water, and its clean rocky shores and gravelly beaches are rarely met with. From a depth of 200 feet to the bottom it maintains an average temperature of 7 degrees above the freezing point the year around; and within the memory of the white man it has never been completely frozen over, except four times — 1855, 1874, 1885, 1912. The absence of large feeders prove it to be an immense spring; only two other lakes in the world possess similar characteristics. In summer many cottages and campers line its shores, and the finest trout and bass are taken from it in their season. It is connected with and used as a part of the barge canal system. A boat service of several months is maintained between Watkins and Geneva, situated at opposite ends of the lake. A topographic and theo- metric survey is appended. [ 6 ] atkins glen, worn through the Portage and Hamilton Groups, is a deep tortuous canyon, with cliffs from one to three hundred feet high, cut through the rocky strata of Glen Mountain, in an easterly and westerly direction, hy a stream of pure water, having its source in springs, scattered through the highlands, that rise a thousand feet above the level of Seneca Lake to the west ot the village, and terminating at Entrance Amphi- theatre ; it is broken in its descent from section to section into cascades and pools ot rare beauty. In making a tour of the glen from the village, we enter the grounds from Franklin Street, and find ourselves in a beautiful little park, laid out with flower beds, paths and fountains, also a building for the accommo- dation of visitors ; nearby, is a concrete band stand, from which the Indian trail leads up the wooded bank. A section is reserved for the parking of autos, thousands of which are accommodated every season. [ 7 ] Franklin Street ' Main Gateway, Watkins Glen Reservation [ 8 3 Entrance Grounds, Watkins Glen Reservation Fountain and Pavilion, Watkins Glen Reservation E 9 ] Entrance Cascade [ 10 ] Entrance Tunnel Passing through the Amphitheatre we pause before the ponderous, awe-inspiring rocky portal, 150 feet high which bars further progress, except by a tunnel that lias been Masted through the solid rock, winding upward sixty feet or more and emerging at Sentry Bridge, a massive concrete structure spanning the gorge, which here is very narrow. C 11 3 The Old Mill Pausing on the bridge for a view through the entrance we have just left we catch a glimpse of the smiling valley and green hills beyond, and marvel at the wonderful works of the great Creator. [ 12 ] swr m - Glen Alpha From here we view the Entrance Cascade as it leaps into the large pool below. In the wall of rock which bars our vision up stream may be seen a small tunnel. A dam once existed at the head of the cascade and caused the waters to detour and flow through this tunnel down to the mills. A pool was formed above that gave the name of Stillwater Gorge to that portion of the Glen. [ 13 ] Upper End of Tunnel and Sentry Bridge Gaining the rocky path above, we pause after reaching a point over the Entrance Cascade, and take in the upper end of Entrance Tunnel and Sentry Bridge, with the wild weird gorge below over which we have just passed. I 14 ] Minnehaha Falls A few rods further in our journey, upon rounding a turn in the path, we arrive at Cavern Gorge. Facing us is the Minnehaha Falls, and in the distance we catch a glimpse of Cavern Cascade. Ascending the iron stairs, clinging closely to the rocks, we pause at the top for a back view. r 15 ] Point Look-Off from Below I 16 ] ■+ r~\--i Frowning Cliff High above on our left rises "Point Look-Off," 140 feet above the stream, and the rough and rugged mass of rocks overhanging us is the Frowning Cliff. [ 17 j Cavern Cascade The impression of Cavern Cascade is one that clings to the visitor, after many others have faded from memory, and the first thought as we view it is that we have reached the end of our journey. The shelving rock over which the stream leaps into the depths of the immense cauldron, carved out of the solid rock by countless ages of effort, is buttressed by ponderous walls, which preclude the idea of scaling. The pool at this place is one of the largest and deepest in the Glen, and before the debris from rock cutting at the tunnel and other points had been dumped into it had a depth of sixty feet or more. Formerly the "long stairs" of forty-three steps led up in front of the Cascade, and the upper end rested in the remains of an ancient pool, which is discernible to-day. As we pass into the cavern back of the falling water there opens before us a spiral tunnel in the north wall, and when the water is high the roar at this point is deafening. Hastening on we are soon at the view point above, gazing into whirl- wind gorge. From here a path leads out of the Glen, and we can visit Point Look-Off. The site ot the Old Glen Mountain House and Hope's Art Gallery, or Glenwood Cemetery, until acquired by the State, all had to climb up to the level of the Suspension Bridge in going through the gorge. The section over which we have passed is known as the lower glen. [ 18 ] Cavern Cascade C 19 ] 1 Upper End of Vista Continuing on under the Suspension Bridge we are in the "Vista," near the upper end of which we discover a small tunnel on the right, giving access to a staircase leading to Forest Clift and Lovers' Lane. [ 20 ] Stairs at Lovers' Lane This section is traversed by two paths that unite at the- Cathedral, one near the water and an older one higher up. They are connected at Forest Cliff by concrete steps. Advancing on the lower one we pass Diamond Falls, Narrow Pass, and at the Sylvan Rapids get our first glimpse of the Cathedral. C 21 j The Cathedra] The Cathedral can only be viewed in its entirety from the south side of the stream. It is an immense oblong amphitheatre, nearly an eighth of a mile in length, with the Central Cascade at its upper end, rocky walls from ioo to 200 feet high, and a nearly level floor. It is the longest and largest scene in the glen. C 22 ] Cathedral Reflection Is a view looking clown from the center and shows an ancient clump of trees nearly ioo feet high. The Baptismal Font is a beautiful pool near the upper end. [ 23 ] Central Cascade Sixty-five feet high, with a deep pool at its base, is the half-way mark between Franklin Street and the railroad bridge. Pulpit Rock, one of the highest in the glen, looms up on the south bank at this point. [ 24 ] Rocky Path From the Cathedral, a flight of stairs leads to Rocky Path, the upper end of which passes through the fourth tunnel at Folly Bridge. i 25 : Poets' Dream The view looking into the Cathedral from this point is called "Poets' Dream. [ 26 ] Glen of the Pools The next section, "Glen of the Pools," so named from the number ot rocky basins it contains, and from its upper end Rainbow Falls and Triple Cascade bursts upon our view. C 27 ] Rainbow Falls and Triple Cascade Rainbow Falls is the most celebrated and longest remem- bered of all the varied and beautiful scenes of this wonderful place. The combination of the three cascades in the stream, coupled with the veil that trickles from the southern cliff, falling over the rocky path that leads behind the spray, probably has no duplicate in the world, and once seen it is indelibly impressed on the brain never to be effaced while reason sits enthroned. The brilliant rainbows seen from various points, as it is illuminated by the sunlight stream- ing into the gorge, are responsible for its name, and in passing the spray several are disclosed by looking through it, and from the bridge above a look back will frequently discover one. In winter, ice formations at this point block all attempts at travel. [ 28 2 Rainbow Falls and Triple Cascade [ 29 ] Pillar of Beauty Glen Arcadia next claims our attention. On the left the "Pillar of Beauty," hoary with age, and covered with moss, lichen and ferns, springs upward from a beautiful pool that laves its base, and as we pass into the narrow passage beyond the Artists' Dream untolds before us. [ 30 ] Artists' Dream I his view is considered by many to be the finest in the (Hen. e 3i : Pluto Falls As we come to Pluto Falls, on which the sun never shines, the air gets damp and cold and the whole general impression suggests Dante's Inferno. [ 32 ] Spiral Gorge Spiral Gorge shows the wild region just passed through. C 33 ] Elfin Gorge And after viewing Elfin Gorge and I 34 ] Fairy Pool Fairy Pool, we emerge from the high rocks into the Lovers' Ramble, that extends to the railroad bridge, one mile and a half from Franklin Street. C 35 ] Jacob's Ladder Contains 134 steps and leads to the elevation above, which is nearly 800 feet higher than Seneca Lake. A path leading back over the hill can be taken from this point, which ends at the lookout in Glenwood Cemetery, where a fine view of the village, lake and valley is obtained. [ 36 j -a > V r H 03 4-1 03 L 37 ] J3 '5 O O 3 o D U CO C [ 38 ] '.. O en rt « a SI , c * B ' - B -g | "2 - o.c : 3 > 3 3 O O "g j= O on o ■- O JT 60** 4; "u '« u n 11'^ tr. °. ■- « » ttfc JO jg ° < < O * SB -O c +-> z Oh C o -a c h < •J e^_o B > C 3 - Mo O £ w. ■ B.2-S c £ -o I < "* a, £ £ E c £ 3 o S 2 u I SJj'jj [ 39 ] SENECA LAKE 15 oo above. Topographic Survey by N FW YORK Ttaeonietric Survey by Prof. E. A.Fuertes, 1,u " ' v N ' Dwight w. Smith, J 880. Wathint Glen "I 18 FEET DEPTH. GREATEST DEPTH OF LAKE Depth in feet at whicjb Theometric Survey was made at dates iudicated on s. &0- the opposite side of the scale. Laoo Change of only oue degree Fahi in 150 feet of depth. and below this /280- 300 ft.from surface of Lake change only slight and not veriued. I -Wo Vahr. at surface Aug. 1st to Sept. 1.1891. Well-water at 47 feet being 51° Average temperature for dates given. Seven degrees above freezing, change not perceptible during the Summer of 1891. Diagram of Seneca Lake THE MATTHEWS-NOR VORkS, BUFFALO, CLEV LIBRARY OF CONGRESS