// l ^ -b' The Art of Making Tatting By Louise S. Hauck p means picot k means kiuu IN order to learn easily and quickly, and without trying one's patience too much, in learning, how to make tatting, it will be wise to read the follow- ing thoughtfully and carefully. The knots of which the tatting is made consist of two stitches. These stitches form little loops through which the shuttle thread must run freely so as not to confine it. You will see in starting the work the consistency of this need. Here is a fact which must be absolutely re- membered in trying to learn. That the stitches are made with the left-hand thread and not with the shuttle thread. The shuttle is where the supply comes from. around the left-hand fingers, the shuttle in the right hand with the thread at the right of the shuttle, holding out the thread of the shuttle with the middle finger of the right hand. Now you will make the first stitch of the knot. Put the shuttle down in the ring against the space thread of the left hand, let the thread pass up be- tween the forefinger and shuttle, then over the shuttle and down between the shuttle and thumb. Now comes the knack of making the first little loop. Give the shuttle thread a little jerk, at the same time bending the left-hand fingers a little, holding the shuttle thread firmly; you will see the little loop In positinn for Jirst stitch First half of first knot In position for second stitch Completed knot of under and over stitches How to hold the left-hand thread and shuttle TAKE the end of the thread between the forefinger and thumb, form a ring around the left hand, spreading out the rest of the fingers a little. You will now have a space between the forefinger and middle finger. In this space all the stitches are made that are used when working with one thread. Now take the shuttle between the forefinger and thumb of the right hand, with the thread at the righ*^ of the shuttle. Have the thread between the left hand and the shuttle about six inches long. If you have the thread too long it will bother you, be- cause you will have to hold the thread out with the middle fingei of the right hand. Now here is the position for the first stitch. A ring of the thread will immediately fall in place. The loop will have the shuttle thread ruiming through it, the left-hand thread will be over the loop, the end thread will then be underneath. The little loop is now brought back to the forefinger and thumb of the left hand by opening the fingers of the left hand. You will see that the loop will slip back easily enough. Hold the first stitch firmly between the forefinger and thumb of the left hand. All the knots are gently held be- tween the forefinger and thumb as you work. The second position for holding the shuttle in mak- ing the second stitch is thus: Allow a loop to form in the ring of the left-hand thread, and pass the space thread up between the thumb and shuttle, over the shuttle and down between the shuttle and forefinger; give the shuttle thread a little jerk; at the Page i same time close the left-hand fingers, hold the shuttle thread firmly and the loop will at once fall in place. Now look at this stitch carefully. (Of course you will understand that the shuttle must be worked in the loop you have formed with the shuttle thread.) You will see that the shuttle thread runs through the little loop, and the left-hand thread will be under- neath the little loop. Now open the fingers of the left hand and let the stitch come close to the first one made and you will have one complete knot. All tatting, no matter how elaborate, is made of these knots, whether it be made of one or two threads. A careful study of these directions will give you a clear understanding of how to make the tatting shown in the following pages. How to make the Picot WHEN you make the first stitch of the knot, do not bring the stitch close to the last knot made, but leave a space long or short as directed, then make the second stitch and bring that close to the right size as you work. The little finger will come in play and do the work for you. In this way: You will learn that by giving the thread a jerk with the little finger it will make the ring on the left hand larger and so, without your knowing it, this will take place. All the fingers of the left hand will come in play as you go on with the work, and by degrees you will learn to work so that you will be able to talk, too. How to work with two threads WHEN you work with two threads, you generally begin with a ring. When you are winding the shuttle to work with two threads, you will then not have need to tie the ends. When your shuttle gives out and it needs re-winding, leave the end quite long so as to tie the end of the shuttle thread to it. This is done with a square knot. To make a square knot TIE the ends close to the work. Lay the left-hand thread over that of the right, put the left-hand 1 — One complete knot open 2 — Complctr hint closed 3 — Six knots n/nd nnp. -mVo/ hpforp hpinn drniinr ij.it L — Ctn.p. r.aim.nlptp. rinn and one picot before being drawn up U — One complete ring first and bring the knot with the picot close to those already made. When you find that the hand thread is getting small, just give the thread of the left hand a pull downward from the forefinger and thumb. As you go on with the work you will also find that it is best to go gently, even if you can work fast. It is not necessary to draw the thread hard in working. You will find that the knots will look more even if you do not pull your work too hard. It is best to give the rings a second pull so that they will not open later on, as you work. It is quite impossible to close the ring properly in the first attempt. You will have to pull the thread too hard and are liable to break the shuttle thread if you attempt to close the ring entirely with the first attempt. By-and-bye you will learn unconsciously to keep your ring just the thread under the thread with the left hand, take the left-hand thread in your left hand, lay the right-hand thread over it, pass the left-hand end through the ring you have formed, take hold of the end with the right hand and draw the knot so that you can have a good look at it. You will have a loop within a loop. Draw this knot just as close to your work as possible, and draw both ends at once so as to make a neat knot. Now cut off the ends. After you have made the ring that precedes the work on the second thread (work made with the spool thread is called a bar), if the bar has only a few knots, wind the spool thread, holding it the same as the shuttle thread, over the outstretched fingers of the left hand and wind it a number of times around the little finger to hold it firm. When you need to make, for example, a bar with five picots, it is best Page 5 to first wind tlie spool tliread over the middle finger, then over the little. If your directions call for a bar of seven picots. then yon may wind the spool thread around the middle finger, then the third finger, and lastly around the little finger. This will prevent you from unwinding the thread around the little finger and rewinding in order to give you enough thread to complete the bar. Care must be taken when work- ing with two threads so that you turn your work properly, or you will make the bar in the wrong place. For example, if you are going to make a bar with a ring at either end, you will have to turn your work up or down as the case may recjuire. This you will have to determine. Directions for Making Ring Tatting SIX knots, one picot. Six knots, one pioot, six knots, one picot, six knots. Draw shuttle thread up tightly so as to form a single perfect ring. Now, to make the second ring: No. 3 — Begin by leav- ing a little space from the first ring. Six knots. With a crochet hook, or a good-sized pin, pull the hand thread through the last picot of the ring just made, and put the shuttle through this loop and draw the thread close to the six knots previously made. Thus continue to make rings for the plain design of tatting. The ring with three picots in the center is made with- out a knot between each picot. No. J, — The ring with five picots is made begin- ning with five knots, one picot, five knots, three picots with knot between each picot, five knots, one picot, five knots, close. No. 5 — Three knots, one picot, three knots, five picots, one knot between each picot, three knots, one picot, three knots, close, three knots. Join to first picot of ring just completed and proceed to finish ring. Simple Edges and Insertions for Handkerchiefs, Infants' Garments and Underwear No. 6— Edge— Four knots between each picot in the small rings, eight knots between the single picots and one knot between each of the five picots, turn and repeat tlielargering, joining at the first picot. The insertion isthelargeringthrough whichyoucanrun ribbon. Sew on the garment as it is, or crochet a single stitch in each of the five picots with five in chain between the rings. No. 6 — Erlge and Insertion No. 7 — Insertion — Four knots, one pi- cot, four knots, three picots with one knot between each picot, four knots, one picot, four knots, close. Turn, repeat the ring. Turn, four knots, join to picot four knots, three picots with one knot between each picot, turn. Proceed working these rings, joining each to the preceding one after making the first four knots of each ring. No. 7 — Insertion No. S — Clover leaf No. 8 — Clover Leo/— Six knots between each of the picots. The rings must be made close together. No. 10 — Clover leaf insertion and edge, with two threads No. 10 — Clover' leaf insertion and edge tvith two threads — Begin with a small ring. Four knots, one picot, four knots, five picots with one knot between each picot, four knots, one picot. draw together. With the s])Ool thread work six knots, then make the second ring like the first. Then the bar with six knots. Proceed to make the clover leaf given before with six knots, one picot, six knots, one picot, six knots, one picot, six knots, one picot, six knots, close and repeat three times to make three rings of leaf. Repeat bar wi*l. six knots, then two small rings, then a clover leaf. Xo. !)- -Insertion with two threads No. !) — Insertion — Four knots between each picot in the rings — six knots in the connecting bars. No. II Edge and heading for underwear No. 11 — Edge and insertion. Tiro threads — Ring: Six knots one picot, four knots one picot, one knot one picot, one knot one picot, one knot one picot, four knots one i)icot, six knots, close ring. With the spool thread: F.ight knots, one picot. eight knots. With the shuttle: Six knots, join to the first picot toward you at the left and proceed to work like the first ring. Then proceed to work on the spool thread as the preceding bar. There are six chain cro- cheted between each picot in the centers of each bar. Page 6 A 36-inch centerpiece decorated with butterjiies, and edge No. 8, made from 20 thread Butterfly No. 2. Two Threads THE body is crocheted with a fine, straight steel needle, and made as directed for butterfly No. 1. Directions for mitking the wings — A word about spacing: It would be utterly impossible for me to give you the exact length of thread for each space required in making this beautiful buttei-fly. You will have to look at the print of the butterfly, and use your good judgment. The spaces may be easily de- fined if you will read ahead a bit, and find out how large the ring will be when finished, and thus leave a space accordingly. If you make a few spaces, you will then see just how much you are to leave for the space which the following ring will occupy. You be- gin one-half of the butterfly with the eye. If you have just filled your shut- tle there is no need for you to tie a knot, your threads are ready to go to work. If you have a shuttle and you want to add the spool or ball, tie a square knot, and cut off the ends close to the knot. Taking the knot between the thumb and fore- finger of the left hand, make a ring. Rings are all made with the shuttle thread alone, unless directed otherwise. Bars are all made with the spool or ball thread wound around the little finger of the left hand and the shuttle thread runs through the knots of the bars. All rings and bars are begun with a knot. There is one knot between each Nightgowns, chemise-yokes, combinations and collars, as well as centerpieces and towels are made attractive by tl. ye butterjiies picot unless directed. Make a long picot between the short picots. Always end the short picots with one knot. A knot follows a long picot, then the rest of the short picots follow. Make a ring with 5 knots, 1 p, 5 knots, close. This is the eye. Leaving a tiny space, ring 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. Turn this ring so that the p points toward you and the base of the ring from you (the base of a ring is the place where the ring is closed). Now make a bar with 3 ps, turn the ps of the bar toward you, make a ring, 3 knots, join to the p of the ring you made last; 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. Turn, bar, 3 ps. Turn, 3 knots, join to p of small ring, 3 knots, 1 p, quite long, 3 knots, close. Turn, bar, 3 ps, turn, ring, 4 knots, join to the long p, 4 knots, 1 p, quite long p, 4 knots, close. Turn, bar, 5 ps. Turn, ring, 4 knots, join to the long p, 2 knots, 1 long p, 2 knots, 1 long p. 4 knots, close. Turn, bar, 7 ps. Turn, ring, 7 ps, join to the first long p. 3 ps, 1 long p, 3 ps, 1 long p, 3 ps, close. Turn, bar, 7 ps, join to the first long p. Bar, 7 ps. Turn, ring, 7 short ps without a knot between each p, join to the next long p, 4 knots, join to long p of small ling, 4 short ps, 1 long p. 4 short ps, close. Space, ring, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, join to long p between the short ps, 3 ps, join between the ring with the short ps and the next small ring, 3 ps, join between the Page If second and third small rings, 3 ps, close. Space, ring, 5 short ps. without a knot between the ps, join be- tween tlie next 2 riiig:s. 5 more short ps, close. Space, ring, 5 knots, join to the center of the 5 short ps, 3 knots, join between the next two small rings, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. Space, turn, 3 knots, join to p of last ring, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. Turn the wing up. Space, ring, 5 knots, join to second space, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. Leaving a space, thread around this ring you have just made, join the shuttle thread to the p. Beginning close at the join, 3 quite short ps, join between the ring with the short ps and the large ring, 7 ps, close. Space, ring, 5 ps, join to the center of the 7 ps, 3 ps, join in the last space, 5 ps, 1 long p, 3 ps, close. Space, ring, 5 short ps without a knot be- tween, join to the first p from the base of the large ring, 3 short ps, 1 long p, 3 short ps, 1 long p, 3 short ps, close. Ring, space, 3 knots, join to the first long p, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. Ring, space, 4 knots, join to p of small ring, 4 knots, join to long p, 4 knots, 1 p, 4 knots, close. Space, ring, 4 knots, join to p of small ring, 4 knots, join between the 2 rings with ps, 4 knots, 1 p, 4 knots, close. Space, ring, 3 knots, join to p of small ring, 3 knots, join to long p, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. Leaving a space, join shuttle thread to bar. Bar, 5 ps, join between the first 2 rings. Bar, 5 ps, join between the next 2 rings. Bar, 5 ps, join between the next 2 rings. Bar, 5 ps, join between the next 2 rings, bar, 5 ps. Turn, ring, 5 ps, join between the first 2 rings, 3 knots, join in ^^f the next space, 3 knots, 1 long p, 3 knots, close. Bar, 3 ps, V^ join between the joined p and the base of the ring. Bar, 5 ps, join in the last space. Leaving a lit tie space, join shuttle thread to p of last ring, then join between the 2 rings, then join at the bar. On these threads you will later on sew the body. Now join back to the bar with the 5 ps, thus mak- ing 2 threads which you will sew to the body. You will not make the threads any tighter than those that you made in the first joining; if you ilo the thread will pucker the rest of the work. Hold the wing up, the eye down and pointing to the left. Beginning close at the bar make a ring with 3 ps, having 2 knots between each of the 3 ps, close. Leaving a space around this ring you liave just made, join the shuttle thread to the center of the 3 ps. Space, ling, 3 knots, join to the next p of the same ring, 3 knots, join to the second p of bar, 3 knots, 1 long p, 3 knots, close. Space, ring, 3 knots, join to long p, 2 knots, now bring up the spool thread through the second p of bar. Slip the shuttle through this loop and draw down the spool thread, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. Leaving a space, join shuttle thread to p of ring, then join to the last p of the same bar to which you made the other joins. Bar, 5 ps, turn, ring, 5 short ps, without a knot between, join in the first space, 5 short ps without a knot between, join in the first space, 5 short ps, 1 long p, 5 short ps, close. Turn, bar, 5 ps. Turn, ring, 5 ps, join in the long p, 5 ps, 1 long p, 5 ps, close. Turn, bar, 7 ps, join to the long p, bar, 7 ps. Turn, ring, 7 short ps, without a knot between, join to the center p of the 5, 3 short ps, 1 long p, 3 short ps, close. Space, join shuttle Ihreiul to long p. Without changing position of work, ring, space, 5 ps, join between the secoid ring and the ring with the shcit p, 3 ps, 1 long p, 3 ps, close. Space, ring, 5 knots, join to the center of the first 3 ps, 5 knots, join to long p, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. Leav- ing a space, join the shuttle thread to the p of ring, then with- out leaving a space, (Continued on page 8 A beautiful clover-edge for a plate-doily, ceu tcr- piece, yoke or collar made from fine thread Clover Border MAKE a ring of 5 knots, 6 p (al- ways with 1 knot be- tween in every case in these directions where ps are men- tioned), 5 knots, close. Now, continuing, attach an- other thread and make 8 knots, catch into first p of previous ring. 3 knots, catch into next p of first ring, 3 knots, catch into next p, and continue until you have worked into each p of the ring, after which make 8 knots and close this outside ring. Now, with the single thread, make the small inner ring again; then continue with a double thread to make the outside ring. Continue with a third clover leaf, then fasten threads securely and cut them. Make sufficient of these clover leafs to go entirely around the doily or other article. Arrange the clover-leaves as shown in the illustra- tion, and sew them securely together. Madefroincoarse thread this would he effective mi towels, centerpieces and ninners of heavy linen Now, to make the stems, commence at one of the points where the leaves are sewed together, with 2 threads. Make 6 knots, 6 p, 6 knots, and attach thread at base of group of 3 leaves. Then continue with the double thread, making 6 knots, fasten thread through last p of previous half ring (or stem), 6 p, 6 knots, and fasten in next junction- point of clover-leaves. Continue in the same man- ner until you have gone entirely down the strip. The final edge may be done either with tatting or with crochet; the latter is quicker and far easier to sew to the linen, the tatting making a harder edge. For the tatting, one makes with the double thread, 1 knot, catch into a p; 1 knot, catch into next p, etc., etc. For the crochet, make 1 chain into a p, 1 chain; 1 chain into a p, 1 chain, etc., etc. Page 8 Butterfly No. 2 {Continued from page 7) join between the ring with the short ps in small ring. Then join between the next 2 rings. Turn the fin- ished wing down and leave quite a space. Turn, 3 ps, join in the space between the join and the base of the same ring (that is, the ring below the one with the ps), 2 ps, join in next space, 2 ps, join in next space, 1 knot, 1 long p, 5 ps, close. Do not draw this ring tight. It should be oblong. Space, 2 knots, join to the first p of the oblong ring (from the base of the oblong ring), 2 knots, 1 p, 2 knots, close. Space, 3 knots, join to p of small ring, 3 knots, join to the next p of oblong ring, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. Space, 3 knots, join to p of small ring, 3 knots, join to long p, 3 knots, close. Space, 5 short ps, without a knot between the ps, join to last space, 5 short ps, close. Join shuttle thread to bar, leav- ing a space long enough to go around the 5 short ps. Bar, 5 ps, join between the 2 first rings, bar, 5 ps, join between the next 2 rings, bar, 5 ps, join between the next 2 rings, bar, 3 ps, join between the large and small ring. Turn finished wing up, the eye point- ing to the right. Ring, 2 knots, 3 ps, join to next space, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. Turn, bar, 3 ps, join to first p of the ring you just made. Join in next space and p. Cut off ends, tie square knot, cut off close to the knot. You will now sew the wings to the body as directed for No. 1 butterfly. Dainty and fine for underwear or, coarser thread, for pillows Butterfly No. 3 RING, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. Leaving a lit- tle space, ring, 3 knots, 2 ps with 3 knots be- tween the ps. Bar, make 3 knots, 3 ps, with 3 knots between each p, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, 1 long p, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. Turn the picots of this bar up, repeat this bar and join to long p. Repeat the first bar and ring, repeat the bar and join to long p of ring. Repeat the bar and join at base of ring. (Base of ring is where the ring is closed.) Hold the work so that the bars you made first are toward you. Repeat the bar and join to long p. Repeat the bar and join at the base of the ring. Repeat the bar and join between the base of the second ring you made and the bar thread. Join the shuttle thread to the center of the 3 ps of second ring. Bar, turn the eye down, repeat the same bar, and join to center p of bai\ Ring, 1 knot, 5 ps. Join to center p of next bar, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. Leaving a space around the p, join the shuttle thread to the center of the 5 ps of ring. Re- peat the bar and join to the next p of same bar where you joined the last ring. Turn the eye to the left. Ring, 5 short ps, join to the center p of the next bar, 5 short ps, close. Turn, repeat the bar, join to center of the 5 short ps. Turn so that the eye points toward the left. Ring, 5 knots, join to the first p of the bar around the ring, 1 knot, join to the next p of same bar, 5 ps, close. Without chang- ing position of work repeat the bar. Ring. Turn, 7 ps, join to center p of next bar, 7 ps, close. Turn eye down, repeat the bar, join to the center of the 7 ps of ring. Turn, 7 short ps, join to the next p of same bar where you made a join before, 5 knots, join to center p of next bar, 7 short ps, close. Turn eye down, repeat the bar, join to the center of the 7 ps. Turn eye up, ring 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, join to p of same bar, 7 ps, close. Turn eye down, repeat the bar, join to the center of the 7 ps, repeat the bar, join at the base of the ring, repeat the bar, join in the last p of the last bar, leaving a space, join the spool thread to the center p of bar. Leaving a little space, join to center of next bar. Leaving another space, join to center of next bar. Space, ring, 6 ps, join to the next p of same bar, 3 ps, 1 long p, 3 ps, close. Turn the wing down and the eye to the right. Re- peat the bar, join to the long p, repeat the bar, join to the third p of bar, turn eye up, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, join between the bar and the base of the ring 'vith the short ps, 3 knots, 1 long p, 3 knots, close. o_t Cut off thread ends quite long and tie a square knot, cut off the remaining ends. Now you are going to make the bars around this wing. Join the two threads between the second ring you made and the first bar. Be sure you tie a square knot. Holding the eye to the left, beginning close at the bar, make a bar, 5 ps, join to the center of the 3 ps of bar in the preceding row. Make 3 more bars, making tlie join in the center p of each bar — thus making 4 bars to this point, bar, 2 ps, join in next p of same bar. Without changing position of woi'k, ring, 3 short ps, 1 long p, 3 short ps, close. Repeat the bar, join in ne.xt p of same bar. Repeat the bar, join to cen- ter of the 5 ps in ring, repeat the bar, join in last p of next bar, 3 ps, join to first p of next bar, bar, 3 ps, join in next p of same bar. Bar, 3 ps, join in the long p. Bar, 3 ps, join in the first p of the next bar. Bar, 5 ps, join to second p of same bar. Bar, 3 ps, join to first p of next bar. Bar, 2 ps, join in next p of same bar. Bar, 5 ps, join over the first space with the 2 threads. Bar, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, join to the first p of the next bar and the 2 threads, re- peat this last bar, join over the two threads in the next space. Repeat this bar, join at the base of the last bar. This completes the upper or the first wing. Directions for Making the Second, or Lovyer Wing HOLDING the wing up and the eye to the left, join the spool thread to the first p of bar. Space, ring, 3 knots, join to p of next bar, 3 knots, 2 ps with 3 knots between the ps, close. Leaving a little space, 5 short ps, join to center p of small ring, 3 short ps, join to p of next bar. Turn eye down, bar, 5 ps, join to center of the 5 short ps. Turn eye up, repeat this bar, join to the center p of the 5 ps of bar of the finished wing. Turn wing down, eye to the left, ring, 5 short ps, join to the first p of next bar, 11 short ps, close. Turn wing up, eye to the left. Bar, 5 ps, on the same bar, 3 knots, 3 ps with 3 knots between each p. join to the center of the 11 short ps. Without changing position of work, ring, 3 knots, join to the first p of bar, 3 knots, 1 long p, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. Tui-n the wing down. Repeat the bar, join in the long p, bar, 4 knots, 3 ps, with 4 knots between each p, join to the first of the 5 ps to the right. Turn, bar, 7 ps, join to the center p of first bar. Bar, 5 ps, join to the second p. Turn wing up and eye to the right. Ring, 9 ps, join to p of next bar, 3 ps, 1 long p, 3 ps, close. Turn wing down, eye to the right. Pngc !) bar, 3 knots, 3 ps, with 3 knots between each of the 3 ps. Join to the long p. Repeat this bar without turning, ring, 3 knots, join to lirst p of i)ar, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, 1 p, 3 knots, close. Join the spool thread to the top p of this ring, join to bar, leaving a space (that is, the bar between the 2 rings). Repeat the bar with 3 knots, 3 ps with 3 knots between the ps, join to the second p of ring (from the base). And over the two space threads, turn the wing up and the eye to the right. Turn wing down, eye to the left, bar, 7 ps. Join at little ring. Bar, 5 ps, join in the first p of bar, without turning, ring, 3 short ps, 1 long p, 3 short ps, close, 7 ps, join to center p of ne.xt bar. Repeat the bar, join at the base of the ring and the bar. Cut off ends and tie a square knot. This completes the second or lower wing of butterfly. For making body, see page one. Repeat the rings to complete the butterfly. JVii.s' new ust; oj tatting on yu-t footing makes a beautiful trimming Narrow Tatted Edging for Net Ruffle IN this edge, a fine net was used, the tatting being made of a No. 50 crochet cotton. Start by making a group of 3 tiny rings, as follows, with the single thread: 2 knots, 1 p, 2 knots, 1 p, 2 knots, close first ring. Two knots, catch into last picot of first ring, 2 knots, 1 p, 2 knots, close ring. Third ring. 2 knots, catch into final picot of second ring, 2 knots, 1 p, 2 knots, close ring. Fasten another thread at this point and continue as follows: Over double thread make 6 knots, 1 p, 6 knots. The group of small rings is repeated, then the 6 knots, 1 p, 6 knots, on the double thread is again made. In making the groups of small rings, do not draw them up too closely together, as the effectiveness of the design is largely produced by these tiny rings having been spread out to form an edge on the net. If desired, the design may be reversed, i. e., the large semi-circles on the double thread may be used to form a scalloped edge, in which case the tiny groups of small rings should be drawn closely together to lie upon the net. This edge is suitable for handkerchiefs, infants' dresses, bonnets or sacks; for neckwear, fichus, un- derwear, aprons, vests, also for negligees and boudoir caps. A beautiful edge for neclavear, underwear, centerpieces, luncheon sets. Made from gold or silver thread, this would be very effective on a chiffon blouse or for trimming an evening dress Wide Tatted Edge Representing Groups of Flowers and Leaves WORKING with the single thread, start a leaf as follows: 7 knots, 1 p, 7 knots, 1 p, 7 knots, 1 p, 7 knots, close ring, forming it into along oval care- fully. Do not try to pull ring up tightly; this would spoil the leaf-form. Now fasten in a second thread, and with first thread make 1 knot to hold second thread firmly in position. With first thread make the first flower in spray as follows, leaving the thread at least J-inch long, or long enough to enable you to fasten flower against the final picot in the oval leaf. Make the flower-ring with 2 knots, catch into the above-mentioned picot, 2 knots, 1 p, 2 knots, close. Leave the thread sufli- ciently long to form a sort of stem to finish this flower; it should reach almost to the base or point of the leaf at the bottom of the group of flower-stems; now over the second thread, make 1 knot, after which you are ready to make the second flower in the group. The flowers are all made in same manner as first one, only instead of making the first picot, you catch thread through the final picot of the preceding flower. In each flower you make the stems a trifle longer, so that the central flower forms the apex of a tiny, cone-shaped spray. The final two flowers should have shorter stems. Between each flower, fasten the stems to the second thread with 1 knot. After making the final flower and returning to the second thread with a knot, you are ready to make an- other leaf at the base of the spray. Using the single thread, make 7 knots, catch into final picot of last flower, 7 knots. 1 p, 7 knots, 1 p. 7. knots, close ring and shape carefully into leaf-shape of same size as first leaf. Now, on 2nd thread make 7 knots, catch into final picot of last leaf; 9 knots, 1 p, 7 knots. Now, form another leaf with the single thread: 7 knots, catch into picot just made on double thread; 7 knots, catch into central picot of previous leaf; 7 knots, 1 p, 7 knots, close leaf, pulling into shape. Now make 1 knot over double or second thread, and from here start again to make the little spray of five flowers. Continue until you have the desired length. The edge of the net may be rolled when this edge is applied, or a tiny hem may be made. Page 10 Medallion for collar MAKE a ring with 12 ps, 2 knots between each p. Beginning with 2 knots, and ending with the twelfth p. Close, leaving a space about J-inch. Hold the ring up and make a ring, with 5 knots, 1 p, 1 knot, join to first p of large ring, 1 knot, 1 p, 5 knots, close. Space, 3 knots, 13 ps, with 1 knot between each p, 3 knots, close. Turn this ring down. Space, 5 knots, join to p of small ring, 1 knot, join to the next p of first ring you made, 1 knot, 1 p, 5 knots, close. *rurn, 3 knots, join to first p of ring with the 13 ps, 1 knot, join to the next p of same ring, 7 ps, with 1 knot between each p, 3 knots, close. Repeat the small ring, mak- ing the 2 joins. Turn, space, 3 knots, join to first p of ring with the 7 ps, 7 ps, 3 knots, close. Turn, repeat the small ring, making the 2 joins. Turn, space, 3 knots, join to first p, 1 knot, join to next p, 13 ps, with 1 knot between each p, 3 knots, close. Repeat the 2 rings with the 7 ps, and proceed as di- rected until you come to the last ring with the 7 ps. You will now make 5 ps, turn the work to the left and join as though you were working on the wrong side. Edge and Medallion for Collar This edge is viade from fine thread for the collar, but when developed in heavy cotton or linen it ivill be suitable for towels, pillow-cases and runners Without changing position of work, 1 knot, join to the last p and finish the ring, close. Cut off the shuttle, leaving quite an end. With a crochet hook bring the end of the thread through the small ring at the base (which is where the ring is closed). Then bring the thread up through the last ring you made, and then through the first p, crochet 1 stitch; cut off the end. This medallion might be used on a centerpiece, joined together to form yokes on under- wear or infants' dresses, or to edge a collar. Edge of collar * RING 4 knots, 1 p, 4 knots, 1 p, 4 knots, 1 p, 4 knots, 1 p, close. Turn, leaving J-inch thread. Repeat 2 rings. Join third ring after first 4 knots, in last p of first ring, turn. Ring 4 knots, join in third p of second ring, 3 knots, 1 p, repeat 9 times, 7 knots, close. Turn, leaving J-inch of thread, ring 4 knots, join in last p of third ring, 4 knots, 1 p, 4 knots, 1 p, 4 knots, close. Turn, leaving |-inch thread, ring 4 knots, join in last p of large ring. 4 knots, 1 p, 4 knots, 1 p, 4 knots, 1 p, 4 knots, close. Turn, leaving J-inch of thread and repeat from beginning. An insertion for underivear, children's dresses, bags, aprons and towels ONE knot between each picot in these directions. Thread may be fine or coarse. Commence with the group of 3 rings, as fol- lows: (A) Make 6 knots, 5 ps, 6 knots, close; repeat twice, forming a group of 3 rings. Now, attach another thread and t)n it make 5 knots, 3 ps, 2 knots, make a ring with 6 knots, catch in final picot of last ring in group of 3, 3 knots, 1 p, 5 knots, close ring. On double thread make 2 knots, 3 ps, 2 knots; now form another small ring with 5 knots, catch into picot of first small ring, 3 knots, 1 p, 5 knots, close ring. On double thread make 2 knots, 3 ps, 2 knots. Make another ring with 5 knots, catch into picot of second small ring, 3 knots, 1 p, 5 knots, close ring. On double thread make 2 knots, 3 ps, 5 knots. Re- peat from (A) until the strip is sufficiently long. A duplicate strip should be made for the other side of the insertion. In joining the two strips — which should be done during the process of tatting the second strip — the three central picots of the central ring, in the group of three large rings, should be omitted; instead of making these picots in the dupli- cate strip, the thread should be caught through the picots in the first strip, always, of course, with 1 knot between each picot. The outside edges may be finished with tatting, using two threads. Or it may be finished with simple chain-stitch in crochet. In either case, the worker must use suflJicient stitches to make the edge lie straight; this depends upon the worker, therefore no set number of stitches for the edge can be given. In each of the open spaces formed by the joining of the two strips of tatting, a spider-web is formed with the same thread used in the tatting. As may be seen from the illustration, this is formed by four threads running twice from side to side, the center then being woven with the needle, the thread run back, again and fastened off securely. Page 11 A Most Dainty Yoke for Baby's Dress Directions for Making the Yoke with the Forget-mc-oots GET your starting point as directed. Two threads. With the shuttle tliread, seven Itnots, one picot, seven knots, close. With the spool thread, begin with the knot, make seven picots with one knot between each picot. With the shuttle, seven knots, join in picot of ring, seven knots, close. Make seven knots, one picot, seven knots, close. With the spool thread, holding the rings toward you, repeat the bar. Turn, and repeat the two rings (see narrow edge), to complete forget-me-not and so on. You will continue making the first part until you have eighteen bars, thus also making eigh- teen forget-me-nots. You are beginning at the back of the shoulder. Continue making these rows until you have three complete rows of the design. Then make one row with seven forget-me-nots, when you come down to the seventh flower, make three more of the half of the row, then make four com- plete rows for the center-front of the yoke, coming down the last half of the row, making only seven Complete flowers. Then make the three complete rows for the second shoulder part, making liars along the edge of the three complete rows until you The yoke reatlij to sew 171 come to the row of bars. Make four complete rows for one-half of the back, then make the second back part. Make two complete rows for the band, making it long enough to overlay a distance; lap the band over to the second flower. Cut ofl^ the remaining ends. To close the back of the yoke, sew the but- tons on the same way, and make little loops to cor- respond. This yoke fits a child one year old. It is made of No. 60 cotton. * 'J The beginning of the yoke Showing the completed dress, for which any foundation pattern may be used. The cuffs are made by repeating the rows of forget-me-nots Baby's bonnet, sack, bib and slip dress4s may be finished with plain riiitj tatting No. 5 Page n A luncheon set decorated in tatting Medallion for Centerpiece. Tvro Threads RING with the shuttle 3 ks, 3 ps with 3 ks be- tween the ps, ending with the 3 ks, close. Re- peat the ring, making the join in the first p. Repeat this ring. With the spool thread, bar, 7 ks, 1 quite long p, 7 ks. With the shuttle, 5 ks, join to the first p, 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, close. Ring, 5 ks, join to the first p, 5 ks, 5 ps, with 1 k between each p, 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, close. Ring, 5 ks, join to the first p, 2 more ps, with 5 ks between each p, close. Bar, 7 ks, join to p of bar, 7 ks. Repeat the 3 small rings, and then repeat the 3 large rings, ending with the bar. Join to the base of the first ring you made in this medallion. Tie a square knot, cut off the ends. THE possibilities of tatting for use in dining-room linens are illustrated in the luncheon set of centerpiece, plate-doily and bread- and-butter doily. The centerpiece is twenty- seven inches in diameter, edged with a simple border done in coarse Medallion. Two Threads NINE ks, one quite long p, 9 ks, close. Turn this ring toward you. Ring, 5 ks, 1 p. 5 ks, close. Bar, 3 ks, 1 p, 3 ks. Ring, 9 ks, join to the quite long p, 9 ks, close. Repeat the small ring and bar until you have made 7 large rings and 7 small rings, ending with the bar which you join to the base of the first large ring you made. Join the thread to the p of bar in the preceding row. Bar, 5 ks. Ring, 3 ks, 7 ps with 1 k between each p, 3 ks, close. Bar, 5 ks, join at the base of the next large ring. Bar, 5 ks, join to the first p of ring, 3 ps, with 1 k between Used for finishing the edges thread, and two rows of tatted medallions arranged in clusters. The twelve-inch plate-doilies are decorated with the same edge and a single row of medallions, while the small doilies are simply finished with the edging. £dge for Centerpiece. One Thread RING, 5 ks, 3 ps with 5 ks between each p. Turn and repeat the ring. Turn, 5 ks, join to p, 5 ks, 5 ps with 1 k between each p, 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, close. 5 ks, join to p, 2 ps with 5 ks between each p, close. Bring the thread back through the first of the 3 rings which form the leaf and join. This is to bring the 3 rings close together, as they constitute the clover leaf. Now join the thread to the first p. Turn clover leaf down and repeat the first ring, making the join. Thus proceed fi'om the beginning until you have made the required length. A pretty edge for towels, pillow-cases, children 'sdresses, underwear and aprons. Another 'medallion for a luncheon set each p, join to p of small ring, 3 more ps, 5 ks. join to p of bar in the preced- ing row, 5 ks, 3 ps, with 1 k between each p, join to p of small ring. Thus proceed as directed until you come around to the ring you made in this row. After you have made the last join in the small ring, you will have to join the bar after making the 3 ps, to the first p of ring to correspond with the other side, then you will make the 5 ks. Cut off the threads, leaving quite an end, tie with a square knot after you have made the join at the base of the ring at the starting point on this row. Clover Edge. Two Threads FIVE ks, 1 p, 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, close. Beginning close to this ring, 5 ks, join to first p, 11 ks, 3 ps, with 1 k between each p, 11 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, close. Beginning close to this second leaf of the clover, repeat the first leaf, making the join after the first 5 ks. Another simple edge for linens, to be made from coarse thread or fine Join, turn the clover leaf to- ward you and make a ring. 7 ks, 1 p, 7 ks, close. With the spool thread make 3 ks, 3 ps, with 1 k between each p, 3 ks. Ring, 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, close. Repeat the bar. Then repeat the clover and then the bar. Thus proceed until you have made the required length. Page 13 Directions for Making the Edge at the Side of the Runner ONE k, 6 ps without a knot between the ps, 1 k, close. Leaving a little space thread which you will use to sew on the runner, repeat the ring, mak- ing the join after the first knot. Always make a knot after each join. Repeat until you have the de- sired length. Medallion for Runner. Two Threads. MADE with No. 20 crochet cotton or coarse linen thread. If you wish to make the runner of tan linen, you may use the tan carpet warp. With the shuttle thread make a ring, 7 ks, 1 p quite long, 7 ks, close. With the spool thread make a bar, 5 ps with 1 k between each p. Ring, 3 ks, 13 ps with 1 k between each p, 3 ks, close. Ring close to this ring, 3 ks, join to first p, 16 ps, with 1 k be- tween each p, 3 ks, close. Ring, 3 ks, join to first p, 13 ps, with 1 k between each p, 3 ks, close. Holding this clover leaf so that the center leaf points to the left, repeat the bar. Turn the work so that the ps of this bar point toward you, make 7 ks, join to the long p, 7 ks, close. Hold the clover leaf up and the small ring between the finger and thumb, re- peat the bar. (The picots must be opposite each other.) Without changing the position of your work, ring, 3 ks, 6 ps with one k between each p, join to the center of the 13 ps of the third leaf of the clover. Six more ps, 3 ks, close. This is the first leaf of the clover. Proceed to make the second leaf as di- rected. Then make the bar with the 5 ps, holding the center leaf of the clover to the left. Then repeat the small ring, making the join in the long picot, and thus proceed until you have made 5 small rings in the center, 5 complete clover leaves, and the first and second clover leaf of the sixth clover. You will now make the first and second leaf of the clover, the 3 ks, and the 6 ps of the third clover leaf. Now here is the place where you will make the join. You have one-half of the third clover leaf made, now join to the center picot of the very first leaf you made. To do this you will have to lay your double to the left. Just fold the work over, then make the remaining ps to finish the leaf and close. Leaving the work as it is, repeat the bar, then the small ring, then the last bar. Cut off both threads long enough to tie, which you will do with a square knot. Then cut off the re- maining ends close to the knot. Medallion for Centerpiece or Nut Baskets MAKE a ring with 10 ps, and 1 k between each p, close. Leave a space thread almost J- inch and make a ring. Three ks, 1 p, 2 ks, join to first of the 10 ps, 2 ks, 1 p, 3 ks, close. Leav- ing a tiny space, make 2 ks, close. Leaving a tiny space, make a ring, 5 ks, with 3 ps, having 5 ks between each p, ending with the 5 ks, close. Space, 2 ks, close. Tiny space, 5 ks, join to first p. 1.5 ps, without a knot between the ps, 5 ks, close. A tiny space, holding the ring you just made toward you, 2 ks, close. Tiny space, 3 ks, join to p of small ring, 2 ks, join to next p of center ring, 2 ks, 1 p, 3 ks, close. Tiny space, 2 ks, close. Tiny space, repeat the last ring, close, tiny space, 2 ks, close, tiny space, repeat the small ring that is joined to center ring, close. Tiny space, 2 ks, close, tiny space, 5 ks, join to first p of the 15, 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, close. Tiny space, 2 ks, close. (The spaces are all tiny. ) Space, repeat the small ring that is joined to the center ring, close. Space, 2 ks, close. Space, repeat the ring with the 15 ps, close. Space, 2 ks, close. Space, repeat the small ring joined to center ring, close. Space, 2 ks, close. Space, repeat the ring with 15 ps, space, 2 ks, close. Space, re- peat the ring with the 3 ps with 5 ks, between the ps, close. Space, 2 ks, close. Repeat the ring with 15 ps, close. Space, 2 ks, close. Space, repeat the small ring joined to center ring, close. Space, 2 ks, close. Space, repeat the ring with 15 ps, close. Space, 2 ks, close. Space, repeat the ring with the 3 ps. Space, 2 ks, close. Space, repeat the small ring, join to center ring. Space, 2 ks, close. Space, repeat the ring with 15 ps, close. Space, 2 ks, close. Space, repeat the small ring joined to center ring, space, 2 ks, close. Space, repeat the ring with the 3 ps, space, 2 ks, close. Repeat the ring with 15 ps, close. Space, 2 ks, close. Space, repeat the small ring joined to center ring, space, 2 ks, close. Space, repeat the ring with the 15 ps, making a join to the picot of first join of this row, thus closing the medallion. Space, 2 ks, join at the base of small ring around the center ring. These may be joined to form a yoke. Page H Suitable for night-gowns, cheTnises, children's dresses and novelties Forget-me-not Insertion and Beading. Two Threads. RING, 7 ks, 1 p, 7 ks, close. With the spool thread beginning with 2 ks and ending with two 2 ks, make bar with 5 ps with 1 k between each p. Re- peat the ring, join to p. Bar, 9 ks, 1 long p (a good J-inch), 9 ks. Repeat the ring with the 7 ks, 1 p, 7 ks, close. Repeat the bar with the 5 ps, then repeat the ring. Thus proceed until you have the desired length. You will have to end the work with the second ring. This is necessary so that you will have a good finish at either end of your work if you wish to use the insertion for a garment that is open in the front. If you wish to close your work so that the in- sertion will be closed forming a circle, you have be- gun with the rings, therefore, you will have to end your work with the bar of 9 ks, 1 p, 9 ks. Then you will join the work at the base of the first ring you made. For insertion that is to be open, you will make a bar of 7 ps, then repeat the ring, join to p where you have already made a join. Then repeat the bar with the 5 ps, and then you will repeat the ring and join in the same place where you have already made 2 joins. Thus you will have 4 rings in all. Then bar, 9 ks, join to long p. 9 ks, and then proceed work- ing the rings and the bars until you come to the end of your work. Tlien finish with a bar of 7 ps, join to base of ring. Tie with a square knot, cut off the spool thread only. Now with the shuttle thread only, you will make the rings at the top and lower edge of the insertion. Join your thread to the first picot of the bai-. Ring, 3 ks, 6 ps with 1 k between each p, 3 ks, close. Leaving a little space, join thread to third picot. Repeat (making the join in ring after the 3 knots) to the first picot of the first ring, join to fifth picot. Then make two more rings, join to the first picot of bar, repeat as directed from the begin- ning of this row, until you come to the end of the last bar with the 5 ps. Then make the rings as di- rected at the other end of the insertion. Ttto Dainty Patterns in Tatting for Handkerchiefs Blue and White THIS dainty little pattern of tatting is done in blue and white No. 70 thread. Wind the shuttle with white and tie it to the blue. Ring, 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, draw up, chain with the blue 10 ks, draw tight, again ring 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, and so on until the desired length, then go back and fasten in first picot of first ring, chain 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, and so on and fasten in eveiy picot. This design may be used as a beading on under- wear, babies' dresses, bonnets or children's clothes, or, in fine thread, for joining lace and insertion. Lavender and White WIND the shuttle with lavender No. 70, tie to ball of white No. 70, using white for the chain or second thread, ring, 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, draw up, chain 10 ks, ring, 5 ks, join in picot of first ring, 5 ks and draw up. So on until 4 little rings are joined to- gether; in the third chain make a picot between the five double, chain 2 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, 1 p, 2 ks, ring, 5 ks, 1 p, 5 ks, draw up chain, 5 ks, join to picot in last chain, 5 ks, ring, 5 ks, join in picot of last ring and so on. Beading-insertion with One Thread THREE ks, 6 ps, with 1 k between each p, 3 ks, close. Leaving a little space, make 2 ks, close. Another little space, 2 ks, close. Repeat the ring. Turn the first ring you made up or from you, a little space, 2 ks, close. A little space, 2 ks, close. Re- peat the ring joining after the first 3 ks to the first p of ring. Thus proceed until you have made the re- quired length. This is very pretty for underwear and children's dresses and it is very easy to do. Buy a "Bob-o-link" Two-Piece Tatting Shuttle i Here is the shuttle that's easy to wind. Made of two pieces with tubing centers which telescope. To wind, pull sides apart and wind thread as easily and quickly as on a spool. Then put together; the sides hold hrm and the tubing center keeps the points exactly opposite. Can't get out of "fix." The "Bob-o-link" easy-to-wind shuttle will make your tatting a// pleasure. An iWea/ gift, too. Several styles and sizes : German Silver 25c; Sterling Silver $1 to $3; soHd gold $10 to $20. If your jeweler hasn't the genuine "Bob-o-link" two-piece tatting shuttle, write us. EISENSTADT MFG. CO. Manufacturing Jewelers ST. LOUIS, MO. 014 083 261 For Tatting and Crocheting From experience you know that Corticelli is the best silk for sewing and embroid- ering. We now invite YOU to try CMC Cordonnet — the new crochet cotton made by the Corticelli Silk Mills, which has a snowy whiteness, a sparkling lustre, and a round, even thread equal to any cotton made. CMC Cordonnet is best for lace-making, crocheting and tatting. Look for the "kitten head" trade-mark. Put up in three sized balls as follows. \^orticelli l^jLercerized V^'ordonnet Corticelli Mercerized Cordonnet Art. 92 ( Gold label ) is put up full n ci{;lit 7 10 o7. ('011^)0 on a hall (the same as D M C) and is made in Snow White in sizes 3, 5, 10, 15, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, and SO. Sold by dry goods stores. Corticelli Mercerized Cordonnet Art. 66 (Silver label) is made in Snow White in sizes 3 to 100 and in Ecru in sizes 3 to 70; also in these colors in sizes 10, 30, 50, and 70 only: Pink No. 291; Beauty Pink No. 294; Light Blue No. 20S; Blue No. 213; Yellow No. 345, and Wistaria No. 387. Linen No. 355 is made in sizes 3 to 70 inclusive. Price, white or colors, 10c per ball. By mail Ic extra. 8^" Corticelli Mercerized Cordonnet in white and colors has more yards per ball than most other makes. Corticelli Mercerized Cordonnet Art. 43, esjie- ciallvfor tatting, a STiiall hall containing 1/S oz. of cottiin in size 70 in white and the following six colors : Light Blue No. 208; Blue No. 213; Pink No. 291 ; Beauty Pink No. 294; Yellow No. 345 and Wistaria No. 387. Alsointhe following shaded colors: SlKuled Blue No. 283, Shaded Pink No. 284, Shaded Yellow No. 285, and Shaded Wis- taria No. 287. Price per ball, 5c. By mail Ic extra. Made at the Cui ticelli Silk Mille. Florence. Mass. Corticelli Crochet and Tatting Silk A smooth, rounil thre:Kl, very high lustre m.ade in a large number of beautiful colors. This is the silk to use for tatting. It is also largely used for crocheting neckties, piu'ses, betided hags, etc., unless one pre- fers Corticelli Purse Twist, which is put up on long black spools. , Select your favorite color from this list and order from your dealer. If he does not carry Corticelli in stock do not accept ,'i substitute, but send direct to us and we will tell you where you can obtain "Corticelli. " Popular Colors in Corticelli Crochet Silk Wild Rose Pink Old Rose Dark Old Rose New Rose Laurel Green Fern Green Black Dark Lavender Violet Old Gold Rose Persian Blue Blue White Pure White 1192 Cream White 1193 Cream 1134.5 Champagne 1124 Pongee 749 5 Yale Blue 905 Baby Blue 792 Copenhagen Blue 91.^2 Navy Blue 1092.4 Apricot llfie Platinum Gray 1076.4 Helen Pink 1060 Scarlet 1062 Cardinal Princess Pearl Crochet Cotton A full size, lofty, smooth and lustrous thread of just the right spin and twist to produce, the best results in crocheting and knitting bags, belts, sweaters, shawls, scarfs, collars and slippers. Made in these beautiful colore: Blue No. 'M; Ecru No. 358; Pink No. 300; Deep Pink No. 237; Blue No. 433; Brown No. 335; Green No. 46; Lavender No. 392; Yel- low No. 344; Cream No. 476; Gray No. 384; Linen No. 355; Baby Blue No. 423; Tan No. 357; Light Yellow No. .342; Light Green No. 47; Black No. 470; White No. 474; Dark Green No. 4.5; Rose Pink No. 239; Dark Lavender No. 93; Dark Brown No. 337; Golden Orange No. 468; Baby Pink No. 235. Put up in two sized balls: Art. 453, No. 3 coarse and Art. 455, No. 5 fine, a big ball containing iH oz. cotton each. Price per ball 25c; L,y mail 3c e.xtra. Art. 83 and Art. 85, email balls containing- '^ oz. of cotton, inade in colore 34, 46, 93, 235. 237. 300. 335. 337, 344, 355. 357, 358. 384. 423. 470. 474. and 476. Instruction Books Corticelli "Lessons in Crochet." Book No.l. beautifully illustrated, with simple in- structions telling just how to take each stitch, showing new designs in edgings, inser- tione. boudoir caps, scarfs, ehawls. sweaters, nut baskets, lingerie hats, etc. Price 10c. Corticelli "Lessons in Tatting," Over 150 original tatting models especially for those who love this beautiful form of needlework. Complete instructions for unusual designs in edginj-rs, insertions, merlallions, luncheon sets, doilies, nut baskets, tabic scarfs, candleshades, children's aresses. lingerie waists, nightgowns, collars, yokes, etc. Postage paid, for lOc. Corticelli "Lessons in Crochet." Book No. 2, will be issued October 1. 1916. Beautiful models are now being designed for it and will include the very newest ideas in filet and other forms of crochet, with plenty of holiday suggestions. Price 10c. postage paid. Corticelli instruction books are sold in nearly all Art Needlework Departments, or will be mailed on receipt of price. CORTICELLI SILK MILLS, 70 Nonotuck St., Florence, Miss. Art y ^ym^ Ill mil 1 1 mil III ill 014 083 261 Hollingei pH S3 MOl Run F03 /^ LIBRARY OF CONGRESS iijiiiiiiiijiiiiiiiiiiiilliiililliiii 014 083 261 3 • Hollinger pH 8J Mffl Run F03-2245