/._ Class ^L.^^^: Book GopghtN" COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. SOJOURNING SHOPPING & STUDYING IN PARIS SOJOURNING SHOPPING ^ STUDYING IN PARIS A HANDBOOK PARTICULARLY FOR WOMEN BY ELIZABETH OTIS WILLIAMS WITH MAP CHICAGO A. C. McCLURG & CO. 1907 Copyright A. C. McClurg & Co. 1907 . . • Published May 4, 1907 Entered at Stationers' Hall, London, England UBRARY of CONGRESS • Two Cooies ReceWed Copyng-ht Entry CLASS fa, XXc, No. COPY B. THE UNIVERSITY TRESS, CAMBRIDGE, U. S. A. Note THIS little book is intended for the use of women and girls going to Paris, whether for a long or a short stay. My aim has been to give the addresses of suitable hotels, boarding-houses, shops, schools of art, teachers, and places of amusement, — particularly those places to which women may safely go without es- cort; to indicate enjoyable excursions by steamboat, railway, or tramway; to mention the usual charges for board, fees to servants, and prices generally ; in short, to provide the visitor with such information as will save her most of the annoyance that commonly falls to the lot of women who go alone to a strange city. While the book is small enough to be easily carried in a handbag, the information it contains will be found quite full, as well as accurate. The addresses I have given are all known, either to myself or friends, to be desirable, and may be relied on. I shall be grateful to readers who will notify the publishers of any errors they may discover in the book. E. O. W. Baltimore, February 15, 1907. Key to Map The figures in parentheses following many of the addresses in this volume indicate the map square, or squares, in which a particular street lies, and will be found of service in locating addresses. Contents Pagb Passports i Trouble Arising from Ignorance of the Laws . i Carrying and Remitting Money 2 Sending Home Extra Luggage 3 Duties at the United States Custom House on Goods Bought Abroad 4 French Money 7 Tips 8 French Measures 9 Thermometers 9 Cabs, Trams, "Metro," etc 9 Steamboats 12 Hotels 12 Good Railway Hotels 17 Extras at Hotels and Pensions 17 Furnished Apartments 18 Pensions 19 Students' Hostel in the Latin Quarter ... 22 American Students' Club 23 Restaurants 24 Restaurants where Women may Dine Alone . . 25 Restaurants where Women go with an Escort . 25 Tea Rooms . 32 A School of Cooking 33 Dancing 34 Water 34 Milk 35 Help in Shopping, etc 35 Chemists and Druggists 36 Chiropody, Shampooing, Manicuring 36 Washing and Cleaning 37 Viii CONTENTS Page Washing Lists 38 Jewellers 38 Shoes 39 Sunshades and Umbrellas 39 Antique Furniture and Objets d'Art 39 Corsets 40 Lingerie 40 Dressmakers 41 Milliners 43 Buying Postage Stamps 44 Postal Exchange 44 Packing, Storing, and Despatching Goods ... 44 Newspapers and Magazines 45 Circulating Libraries 48 Reading-Rooms 49 Amusements 50 Automobiles 52 Excursions by Automobile and Otherwise ... 53 Hospitals and Trained Nurses 66 English-Speaking Churches and Religious So- cieties 67 Education 71 Students' Associations and Comites de Patronage 80 Libraries 83 Museums and Collections 86 Studios 89 Artists 93 Art Exhibitions of Modern Paintings .... 94 Teachers of Music 9^ Teachers of French 97 Bibliography of Paris loi Vocabularies ^°^ Reference List and Index i37 Streets ^74 SOJOURNING SHOPPING AND STUDYING IN PARIS THERE are a few details, in matters of business, that are as important for people who are living abroad in one place as for those who travel ; in many cases such details are learned only by experience. Passports. — A passport costs very little, and it can be obtained without much trouble. It is absolutely necessary to all travellers in Turkey, or in Russia, or in any Oriental country ; but in France or England it is very seldom required. However, it is much wiser to be armed with one, for the traveller might need to be identified at a post-office ; and in case of accident, or mistaken arrest, or any legal complica- tion, it might save endless annoyance. Any person intending to study in Paris should be provided with a passport and a certificate of the date and place of his birth, for he will find these necessary when he applies for admission into some of the higher schools and courses of study, or for permission to use the various technical libraries and museums. They must be presented also when he wins a diploma. Trouble Arising from Ignorance of the Laws. — Very often a traveller is victimized by unscrupulous people, who take advantage of his ignorance of the laws of the country. In all such cases I strongly advise the victim to go to his Embassy for advice. 2 SOJOURNING, SHOPPING, AND This cannot be too strongly urged in the case of French marriages, for the marriage laws and customs in France are complicated, and very different from those in either England or America. Much misery would be saved if people getting married in France would always apply for advice to their Consul or at their Embassy. The marriage regulations are very strict, and foreigners contracting a marriage in France often think that they have done all that is necessary, and find afterwards that they have not. A great deal of time has to be spent by them in obtaining the necessary certificates, and for that reason people often go over to England to be married ; but even when pursuing this course they should take great care to observe all laws and customs, especially when it is a mixed marriage, — that is, when the parties are of different nations, even though of the same religion. The American Embassy, i8, avenue Kleber (ro). Hours, II A.M. to 3 P.M. The American Consul General, 36, avenue de I'Opera (21). The British Embassy, 39, rue du f^aubourg St. Honore (i 1-12). Hours, II a' M. to 3 p. M. The British Consul, 5, rue d'Aguesseau (12). Carrying and Remitting Money. — As to the methods of carrying money when abroad : a letter of credit is the usual way ; but every one may not be acquainted with the fact that checks may be ob- tained from the American Express Co., in amounts from $10 to $200. The ofifices of the American Express Co. are at 5, Haymarket, London; 11, rue Scribe (13), Paris. At these offices mail for travellers is received and forwarded without charge. The "Travellers' checks " of the American Express Co. are widely known abroad, and are readily cashed at hotels and STUDYING IN PARIS 3 at the leading shops and in all banks ; this makes them sometimes more convenient than letters of credit, as they save the time and trouble of looking up one's banker every time that money is to be drawn. The charge for these checks is fifty cents per hundred dollars, and they may be had for sums of $TO, ^20, ^50, ^100, and" ^200. They are neatly bound in little leather covers. Any that are not used may be redeemed at their face value. Sometimes money is remitted from home in the form of drafts ; but when the draft is cashed, it is both a risk and an inconvenience to keep such an amount of money on hand. If one is staying long enough in Paris, it is convenient to be able to deposit such a sum of money and to open a personal account and have a private check-book. This can be done at Monroe & Co.'s, 7, rue Scribe (13). There is one thing about letters of credit that ought to be carefully noted, and that is the date on which they expire. However large the balance on the letter of credit may be, one cannot draw it after the date on which the letter of credit expires. It is necessary to have a new letter of credit. Of course, one is accredited at home with any balance that has not been drawn. Sending Home Extra "Luggage. — When a person has stayed in one place for even a few months, he is sure to have accumulated things that he may be loath to part with and that would increase the bulk and weight of his luggage to such an extent as to add materially to the expense of travelling. Books may be sent home by post, a volume at a time, as they are read. Books that have been used by their owners abroad for a year or more and are not intended for sale can be brought in free of duty ; those in any foreign language, and any in English that have been 4 SOJOURNING, SHOPPING, AND published over twenty years, are also free of duty. For English books of more recent date, the duty is 25 per cent. It is sometimes very convenient to be able to dis- encumber oneself of the season's clothes when the time for them is past. The cost of sending them home is less than the charge for extra luggage that they would otherwise entail in travelling. Such things can be sent by parcel post, or by the Ameri- can Express Co., or even more cheaply by freight through Wheatley & Co., who have agents all over the world. If such things are sent in a locked trunk, the key must be given to the agents in a separate envelope, properly labelled " To be used at the cus- tom house in America," with a declaration of any- thing that the trunk contains that has been bought abroad or that is dutiable. Thus the agent in America can take all the trouble and responsibiHty of getting it through the custom house, and pay the duties and deliver it, or store it until its owner returns to America. Duties at the United States Custom House on Goods Bought Abroad. — There are certain things that one has a right to bring, but not to send, home free of duty. At the present time any traveller enter- ing the United States has a right to bring with him, free of duty, wearing apparel, toilet articles, and similar personal effects in actual use that have been purchased abroad, to the value of ^100. At the cus- tom house an allowance is often made upon things that have been much worn, but the original value must be stated. Things that have been bought abroad should be packed all in one part of the trunk, and the bills or checks of purchase should be kept ready for inspection. This saves trouble when the declaration is made. STUDYING IN PARIS 5 Very few travellers know the rates of duty levied in America on imported articles ; we therefore give a list of things that are duty-free, and a list of the present rates on the things most likely to be bought by the average tourist. Articles that can be brought into the United States Free of Duty 1. Cameras and photographs not for sale or for presentation. 2. Cigars up to fifty. 3. A watch of foreign manufacture. 4. Works of art, — as household goods, — if they have been in possession for one year and are not intended for any other person. 5. The personal effects of a United States citizen dying in another country, if they are accompanied by a certificate from the Consul. 6. Books, libraries, " reasonable " furniture, and other household effects that have been actually in use by their owners abroad for not less than a year, and are not intended for any other person or for sale ; but persons claiming exemption on the ground of foreign residence must have had the same domiciliary ad- dress, or must have paid rent for a house or apart- ment in the same place, for at least a year. 7. Newspapers and periodicals. 8. Tea. The Present Rates of Duty for Various Articles Artificial flowers — 50 per cent. Bicycles — 45 per cent. Bisque ware, white — ^^ percent; decorated — 60 per cent. Books — 25 per cent. Books in foreign languages or published over 20 years — free. Boots and shoes, leather — 25 per cent. Bronzes — 45 per cent. Cameras — 45 per cent. 6 SOJOURNING, SHOPPING, AND Caps, fur or leather — 35 per cent. Casts, plaster — 35 per cent. China, porcelain, or glass (cut or decorated) — 60 per cent. Clocks and parts thereof (excepting china) — 40 per cent. Clocks, china, decorated — 60 per cent; plain white — 55 per cent. Clothing, wool — 44 cents per pound and 60 per cent. Clothing, linen or cotton — 50 per cent; embroidered — 60 per cent. Clothing, silk — 60 per cent. Cologne and other toilet preparations containing alcohol — 60 cents per pound and 45 per cent ; non-alcoholic — 50 per cent. Coral, unmanufactured and uncut — free. Cutlery — variable according to value, about 50 per cent. Dolls and toys — 35 per cent. Drawings — 20 per cent. Embroideries, cotton, linen, and silk — 60 per cent. Engravings and etchings — 20 per cent ; if over 20 years old — free. Fans of all kinds — 50 per cent. Fur articles — 35 per cent ; see Sealskin. Gloves — dutiable according to length, value, and material. Hemstitched handkerchiefs, cotton or linen — 55 per cent ; embroidered — 60 per cent. Hose — dutiable according to value and material. Jewelry — 60 per cent. Marble statuary, see Paintings. Medicinal preparations containing alcohol — 55 cents per pound; non-alcoholic — 25 per cent. Mirrors'" not more than 144 inches square — 45 per cent. Musical instruments, see Pianos. Newspapers and periodicals — free. Oriental rugs — 10 cents per sq. ft. and 40 per cent. Paintings and marble statuary — 20 per cent. Paintings and marble statuary from France, Germany, Italy, and Spain — 15 per cent. Photographic dry plates and films — 25 per cent. Photographic paper — 30 per cent. Pianos and other musical instruments and parts thereof — 45 per cent. STUDYING IN PARIS 7 Sealskin articles — dutiable, even when belonging to the traveller before going abroad, unless they have been registered at the custom house here before sailing. Tea — free. -Umbrellas and parasols, other than paper — 50 per cent; paper — 35 per cent. Underwear, shirts and drawers, linen or cotton — vari- able, about 50 per cent ; woollen — 44 cents per pound and 60 per cent. Watches — dutiable according to number of jewels in movement ; cases dutiable separately — 40 per cent. Water colors — 30 per cent. Wines — variable according to kinds and prices. Wool and things made of wool — variable, according to kind of article and price, generally a very high duty on wool. French Money. — For measures and money the French, like the Americans, use a decimal system, and for that reason it is very easy to calculate in French money. One hundred centimes make a franc ; 5 centimes make a sou ; 20 sous, or 100 centimes, make a franc. A franc is nearly equivalent to 20 American cents ; for it is worth 20 sous, and a sou is of almost the same value as a cent. In large shops the price is not often given in sous, but by small dealers this term is often used. To get the equivalent of francs in American dollars, simply multiply by 2 and put a decimal point before the right-hand figure. For instance, suppose the price is 10 francs: 10 X 2 = 20; point off the ci- pher, and you have ^2.0. Or suppose the price is 18 francs: 18 X 2 = 36; point off the 6, and you have $$.6, or (which is the same thing) ^3.60. In the large shops there is generally a fixed price plainly marked ; but in the smaller ones and in those of milliners, dressmakers, /I'ngeres, etc., the goods can be bought for less than the price first mentioned. 8 SOJOURNING, SHOPPING, AND When buying flowers at the flower markets or at street stalls, it is always safe to say "Too dear," and to offer much less than is asked ; for a foreigner is always overcharged. Tips. — The question of" tips " is often a worry to the traveller, and he generally gives too much. On paying a cabman or a waiter at a restaurant one- tenth of the amount of the bill is a fairly liberal tip. This is very easy to calculate : just move the decimal point one place to the left ; or, if there is no decimal point, place one before the right-hand figure. For instance, if one has to pay a cabman 2 francs 50 (F. 2.50), one-tenth of that would be .25, or 25 centimes; one-tenth of 2 francs (F. 2) is .20, or 20 centimes; one-tenth of 12 francs (F. 12) is F. 1.20. In leaving a hotel or pension the hall porter, or concierge, should be tipped liberally, for the guest is very much at his mercy : he has to forward let- ters, etc. On leaving the ocean steamer the fair tips to give are : Stewardess 10 shillings Table Steward 10 shillings Deck Steward ....... 5 shillings Bath Steward 5 shillings Room Steward 10 shillings This is for ordinary care during the voyage ; of course, if one requires a great deal of extra attention, more should be given. Ten shillings is equivalent to ^^2.50, or F. 12.50; 5 shillings is equivalent to ;^i.25, or F. 6.25. After a week's stay in a hotel the tips would be : Chambermaid 3 francs Head Waiter 5 francs Under Waiter 3 francs Elevator Boy i franc Hall Porter . ' 8 or 10 francs STUDYING IN PARIS 9 If one spends some months at a place, it is not necessary to tip in proportion ; to let fall a small tip at intervals and to give a good tip at the end is very effective. Foreigners often pay more than is here indicated ; but any guest who pays in this proportion, and after- wards returns to the hotel, will be greeted as an ap- preciative former guest, and be cordially received and treated with proper attention. French Measures. — Instead of our yards and inches the French measure is in metres and centi- metres. A metre is fully 39^ inches, and it is divided into 100 centimetres. If one is going to do much shopping, it is very wise to buy a French tape meas- ure, and so avoid confusion in making calculations of lengths and widths. The liti'e is a measure for liquids, and is equivalent to a quart. It is also equivalent to a pound ; — a pound of cheese is often called a litre of cheese. Thermometers. — Temperature is measured by the Centigrade thermometer, on which zero is at freezing- point. To reduce Centigrade to Fahrenheit, multiply the Centigrade temperature by 9, divide the result by 5, and add 32 to the quotient. For example, if the temperature in a room is 25° Centigrade, what is the Fahrenheit reading? ^^-^ = 45 ; to this add 32, and the result is 77° Fahrenheit. To convert Fahrenheit to Centigrade, subtract 32, mul- tiply by 5, and divide by 9. Thus : 77 — 32 =45 ; and i^^^ =25° Centigrade. Cabs, Trams, " M^tro," etc. — When one hails a cab and has stepped into itj the cabman is obliged by law to drive where directed. He can be engaged either by the hour or for a single '* course"; but if by the hour one must say so on lo SOJOURNING, SHOPPING, AND starting. To take a *' course " is to drive simply from one point to another. In the daytime it costs i franc, 50 centimes and a tip, no matter whether it is a long distance or a short one, provided that it is within the Fortifications. You can stop the cab at an intermediate place to let a person alight, but the cab cannot be kept waiting. By the hour the charge is 2 francs an hour within the Fortifications in the daytime. If one engages a cab by the hour, one cannot pay less than for a whole hour, but after the first hour the payment is calculated by fractions of five minutes each. From midnight till 6 a. m., in Summer, and 7 a. m., in Winter, the charge is 2 francs, 25 centimes the course and 2 francs, 50 centimes per hour. Beyond the Fortifications (and it must not be for- gotten that the Bois de Boulogne is beyond them) the charge for an ordinary cab is 2 francs, 50 cen- times an hour ; and if the passenger does not return in the cab, he has to pay i franc return money when he dismisses the cab. For a short course a taxanietre cab is cheaper. A iaxametre cab is one that has a little machine attached to the driver's seat, in plain sight, which registers distances and prices. By the hour or for long distances a taxanietre cab is sometimes dearer. For luggage on a cab there is always an extra charge of 25 centimes for one trunk, 50 centimes for two trunks, and 75 centimes for three or more. If one has much luggage, it is wise to engage an omnibus, or a cab with a galerie, or railing around the top. The fares for carriages vary slightly at the different stations. It is well to agree on the price when engaging the carriage. If the travelling party is large, with luggage in pro- STUDYING IN PARIS ii portion, an omnibus is better than several carriages, and one can telegraph ahead to the station to engage it. This can be done from any station en route to Paris. An omnibus can be secured to seat from six to twelve persons. The passenger should always ask a cabman for the ticket with his number printed upon it. This aids him in identifying his cab when he comes out of a shop or a place of amusement, and it is necessary in case he has a complaint to make. " Voire numerOy sHl vous plait y Articles left in cabs are supposed to be delivered by the cabman at the Prefecture de Police, where application can be made for them. The Lost Prop- erty Office is at 36, quai des Orfevres (30), beside the Palais de Justice. One can either apply in person, or write, enclosing a stamp for reply. To go about Paris inside of an omnibus is not very agreeable. In the trams there are first and second class seats ; and in those cars as well as in omni- buses there are often seats on the roof, which are not difficult to climb up to, and which are very pleas- ant when the weather is good. When the passenger desires to change from one tram to another, or from one 'bus to another, he can get a ticket called a correspondance, equivalent to our " transfer." By the Metropolitain, or underground electric tram, generally called the " Metro " (a Paris cabman hardly knows it by any other name), one can get very quickly and easily about Paris ; and the Metro is very clean, very cheap (25 centimes for a first-class ticket), and very safe. When one remem- bers the risks of crossing crowded streets and of bad driving in crowded thoroughfares, one realizes that the risk of taking a train in the M^tro is compara- tively small. 12 SOJOURNING, SHOPPING, AND In Paris, as in America, the rule of the road for vehicles is : " Keep to the right ! " When any person is run over, it is not the driver but the victim who has to pay a fine ; and Paris drivers are notoriously reckless. Steamboats. — On the Seine there are small river steamers called bateaux mouches ; in fine weather they are a. very agreeable means of getting from place to place, for the banks of the river are full of interest. For the boats plying between Charenton and Auteuil, and for those between Pont d'Austerlitz and Auteuil, the fare is on week days lo centimes, and on Sundays 20 centimes. For those between Pont Royal and Suresnes the fare is 20 centimes on week days, and on Sundays 40 centimes. At the hours when people are going to or returning from work, and on Sunday afternoons, these steamers are liable to be unpleasantly crowded. Hotels. — For those vvho have but a short time in Paris and who expect to give most of it to shop- ping, it is very satisfactory to be 'in a hotel situated near the shops. Of course, noise in the streets by night and by day is one of the drawbacks to this part of the town. There are many very good hotels here, however, and some magnificent ones. The place Vendome (13) is the choicest situation in the busi- ness part of Paris. One of the leading hotels is H6tel Bristol, 3, place Vendome (13). It has been long established, is well known and very com- fortable. The cooking is quite wonderful. Meals en pefision or a la carte. The price for a suite of rooms is from 40 francs up ; the rooms are all en suite. The prices are gauged by the fact that this hotel is largely patronized by royal personages. King Edward usually stays at the Bristol. H6tel du Rhin, 4, place Vendome (13), on the STUDYING IN PARIS 13 corner of place Vendome and rue de Castiglione. It runs back to rue Saint-Honore. All the rooms here also are en suite. The house is under the same management as the Bristol, and has an equally good reputation. Both of these hotels are very exclusive. The prices are the same. RiTZ Hotel, 15, place Vendome (13), stands at the head of modern luxurious hotels. It is beau- tifully situated. Some of its side rooms look out on the garden of the Bureau du Ministre de la Justice, and are very quiet as well as airy \ but of course the view is not so entertaining as from those rooms that have windows looking on the place Vendome. There are single rooms to be had at the Ritz, with or with- out a bathroom, and there are some charming suites of rooms. The hotel is quite up to date, and all the appointments are thoroughly sanitary. The Ritz has a beautiful dining-room, very light and airy, and many fashionable dinners are given here. The cuisine and service are excellent. There is a wide gallery or corridor with long windows open- ing on the garden, which gives a feeling of space. In the evening this is furnished with comfortable chairs and small tables ; with softly shaded lights, it makes an ideal place for after-dinner coffee and smoking, while one listens to the delightful orchestra which plays here every evening. The color scheme is charming, and the whole place is in excellent taste. Any lady who goes to the Ritz to dine should wear a smart evening dress (not decolietee) and a hat. Afternoon tea is served in the same gallery at myriads of little tables which look very enticing covered with nice damask and pretty china and silver. On Sundays it is always crowded, and it is wise to engage one's table beforehand. Afternoon tea at the 14 SOJOURNING, SHOPPING, AND Ritz is a very gay and fashionable affair; one sees many French people of fashion there, though prin- cipally Americans attend. Here are to be seen the newest and most beautiful creations of the lead- ing Paris dressmakers and miUiners, and, in Winter, wonderful furs. In the Spring and Summer tea or dinner may be had at the little tables on the terrace under the awn- ings, or under big umbrellas in the garden. The gar- den, though not large, is at all seasons an attractive feature ; even in Winter, when seen through the many long windows, it adds to the charm. Hotel Vendome, i, place Vendome (13), is of the same style as the Bristol and the Hotel du Rhin. There are other very fine and well-known hotels in this part of Paris. Among these are : Hotel de Londres, 5, rue de Castiglione (21). Rooms from 5 francs. This hotel is much liked by English and Americans, There are very nice suites of rooms. The Hotel de Londres is sometimes patronized by royalty. Good cuisine. H6TEL DE Lille et d'Albion, 223, rue Saint-Honor^ (21). A great favorite with English people, and also frequented by Americans. Prices about four or five dol- lars a day for the really best rooms, including meals en pension. Hotel de l'Ath^nee, 15, rue Scribe (13). Is near the Opera, very central, and very comfortable. Price for rooms from 8 francs up. H6TEL Chatham, 17, rue Daunou (13). Much liked by Americans. One hundred and fifty rooms, from 7 to 15 francs. H6tel Westminster, ii, rue de la Paix (13), is very good. Rooms from 6 francs. Hotel Regina, 185, rue Saint-Honord (21), near the Louvre. Many people like it, both English and Ameri- cans. Prices not exorbitant. Cuisine good. Hotel Normandie, 7, rue de I'Echelle (21). This STUDYING IN PARIS 15 is the sort of hotel where women can comfortably go alone. Food and service good. H6rEL BiNDA, II, rue de I'Echelle (21). It is near the avenue de I'Opdra. Many Americans frequent this hotel and like it. Rooms from 5 francs. H&TEL Louis le Grand, 2, rue Louis le Grand (13), between rue de la Paix and avenue de I'Opera. A small hotel. Most conveniently situated for people who wish to be near the shops. Prices very moderate. Pen- sion 10 francs and upwards. Special prices during Winter, by the week or month. All modern conven- iences. Electric lights. Good cuisine. Grand Hotel, 12, boulevard des Capucines (13). A very large hotel in the business part of Paris, containing a thousand rooms. Pension from iB francs. At this hotel is served an exceptional five-franc luncheon. H6tel Meurice, 228, rue de Rivoli (21), has always had an exceedingly good reputation. It was almost rebuilt in the Summer of 1905, and will, we are sure, deserve its good name more than ever. Hotel Continental, 3, rue de Castiglione (21), is very large and very well kept. It is on the corner of the rue de Castiglione, and extends along the rue de Rivoli as far as the rue Rouge t-de-1' Isle, facing the Gardens of the Tuileries. It contains six hundred rooms, and the prices for rooms are from 5 francs up. Excellent cuisine and cellar. Good restaurant where a great many men's dinners are given. Many large balls are given at the Hotel Continental by different societies. For one who wants to make a long stay in Paris, it is sometimes well to be where it is more open, not closed in by shops, and less noisy. There are various hotels and pensions near the Etoile where the situa- tion is elevated and open, with broad streets and good air, and within easy reach of charming walks to the Bois de Boulogne, and of the shops by tram or the M^tro. To go from the Etoile to the Magasin du Louvre by "M^tro" takes not more than ten min- utes. There is one enormous hotel in this part of i6 SOJOURNING, SHOPPING, AND the town that we must not omit to mention for those who hke very large hotels : Elys6e Palace H6tel, 103, avenue des Champs- Elysdes (10). it is most beautifully situated on the Champs-Elysees, not far from the Etoile. It is up-to-date, sanitary, and very comfortable. The cuisine is varied and excellent. There is here a very fine Hungarian band. There are three hundred rooms, and the price per room is from 8 francs up. H6tel de la Tremoille, 14, rue de laTrdmoille (11). This is a very good hotel, where people — Americans and others — often go who intend to spend some months in Paris, as well as those who mean to stay only a short time. H6tel Langham, 24, rue Boccador (10), near the avenue de I'Alma, and nearly opposite the American Church. Has a hundred rooms, prices from 6 to 20 francs. There are also very nice suites of rooms, with bathrooms. The dining-room in this hotel is very attrac- tive. It is much frequented by English and Americans. Well heated; good cooking ; good service. Hotel Columbia, 16, avenue Kldber (10), next to the United States Embassy. A very good family hotel, much patronized by Americans. Good service. Mercedes Hotel, rue de Presbourg (10), near ave- nue Kldber. A very attractive hotel, new and up-to-date. Hotel Splendide, i bis, avenue Carnot (2), near the Etoile. It is a family hotel where Americans often pass the Winter. Well heated and very good. Apart- ments are to be had only en sjiite. Very few, if any, single rooms. Hotel Campbell, 45, avenue de Friedland (2). A family hotel, much frequented by English people. Ninety rooms. Prices of rooms from 5 francs up. Hotel d'I^na, 36, avenue d'Idna (10). Frequented by English and Americans. Has two hundred rooms. Prices of rooms from 4 to 20 francs. Extremely good. Cuisine excellent. On the left bank of the Seine it is not easy to find hotels and pensions that are sanitary and good. The STUDYING IN PARIS 17 buildings are generally old, but there are some that are very pleasant, sanitary, inexpensive, and satisfac- tory. Two hotels that we can recommend are : H6TEL Dysart, 4, square de la Tour Maubourg. This is a small hotel which was once a pension. It is very attractive, sanitary, comfortable, an:l not expensive, with many cheerful, sunny rooms. The cuisine is good. It is very near the Invalides. Hotel des Saints-P^res, 65, rue des Saints-Peres (29). Situated on one of the oldest streets leading up from the Seine, opposite the Louvre. The street is picturesque and full of shops of objets d'art, etc., and has a flavor of old associations. The hotel is said to be very good, and is certainly very attractively situated for one who cares for the old part of Paris. Many Ameri- cans go there. It has fifty rooms. Prices from 4^ francs ; and the other charg-es are moderate. 't3* Good Rail^vay Hotels Printemps, rue St. Lazare (4), near the Gare St. Lazare (4). H6tel Terminus, opposite the Gare St. Lazare (4). Magenta ; Hotel du Nord ; both near the Gare du Nord. Hotel de l' Quest, 21, rue Verte, near the Rive Gauche Railway Station. Prices very moderate. Clean, but necessarily noisy. Shady garden. H6tel Meuble, near the Gare d'Orldans or Gare du Quai d'Orsay (2f). Quiet; cheap. In case of having to take a very early train or arriving late at night, one of these hotels may prove to be a great convenience. Extras at Hotels and Pensions.- — When looking at hotels and pensions and asking about prices, it is ad- visable to inquire what the extras are : for sometimes what seems to be a higher price is not so in reality, because it includes so much for which one has to pay z i8 SOJOURNING, SHOPPING, AND extra at other places where the stated price is less. The usual extras are service, light, heat, drinking- water, and wine. Sometimes in a pension wine and water are not considered as extras. With light, heat, and service included, 13 francs would be cheaper than 10 francs with these considered as extras. In the Summer, when the days are long and fires are not needed, of course this does not make so much difference. Scarcely any pensions are really comfortable ac- cording to American ideas of comfort. The methods and degree of heating seldom come up to American ideals. The question of baths, also, is often a serious difficulty. In the ordinary French pension there is no bathroom with hot and cold water, and when there is, it has to be paid for as an extra whenever it is used. In engaging board at a pension, it is necessary to be very firm in inquiring what the extras are. Tout compris is a term capable of various definitions ; the one who says it and the one who hears it do not always understand the same thing. Furnished Apartments. — When there are several in a party, or when one intends to remain a long time in Paris, it is sometimes pleasant to take a furnished apartment, which one can often do by the month. It is very easy and very entertaining to manage the housekeeping, and it need not be more expensive than in a hotel or pension when there are several in the party. The concierge of the apartment is always ready to procure a reliable bonne a touie /aire, who may be engaged by the hour or by the week ; and for plate, linen of all sorts, extra china, or additional fur- niture, one need only to apply to a Bureau de Lo- cationj which will supply linen of good quality, clean and fresh each week, for a very small charge above the cost of the washing. STUDYING IN PARIS 19 For information about apartments, pensions, or French families who will take boarders, apply to Betts Fr^res, i, rue de Castiglione (21). They also change money and are very good people to apply to for a variety of information, addresses of teachers, studios, etc. In leasing an apartment through them.^ it is wise to have them transact the whole of the business, take the inventory, draw up the lease, and receive the rent. Thus legal complications and ex- tortion are avoided, and the extra charge is very small. Very often students in the Latin Quarter and else- where take a whole suite of apartments, sub-letting the superfluous rooms to other students of their acquaint- ance. In this way they can control expense and se- cure privacy, and with a wise chaperon the method is very safe, and the dwelhng more homelike for young girls. Pensions. — As to pensions, what a friend living in Paris says is perfectly true : " It is difficult to give addresses of pensions, unless one has the means of ascertaining whether they are really good or not, and that, I think, can only be done by staying in them." Personally I have not stayed in any of the pensions on my list ; but friends have stayed in some of them, and of all the others I have heard from friends who knew them to be of good reputation. At least they can be trusted as being respectable, and in Paris it is something to be sure of that. Near the Etoile there is a very good pension, which is almost a hotel, kept by Mrs. Thayer and Miss Put- nam, II, avenue MacMahon (2). Prices, en pe7ision, 10 to 15 francs, including light and attendance ; fuel extra. Telegraph address, " Cecilia Paris." There are many Americans here. It is an extremely good place for any woman who is travelling alone. Very comfortable. 20 SOJOURNING, SHOPPING, AND Pension Allion, ii bis, rue de Cluny (38). Six to 8 francs. American Students' Club for Women, 4, rue de Che- vreuse (45). Madame Bailleul, 7, rue de Mdzi^res (37). Seven to 8 francs. Does not take more than ten boarders. Mile. Bailleul gives French lessons. Madame Barbin, 8, rue Garanci^re (37). Five francs and upward. Especially a pension for ladies. Madame Barral, 51, rue d'Assas (37-45)- Seven francs and upward a day; 150, 175, or 200 francs a month for single rooms with board; 150 to 165 each person for two beds in a room. Light and heat extra. Twenty-five to thirty boarders. Extremely good American references. Madame A. Barrd, 12, rue d'Assas (37-45), near the Luxembourg. Forty-five to 50 francs per week. Ten to twelve boarders. M. Beet, 12, rue de la Grande Chaumi^re (45). Mile. L. Bournique, 8^, rue Vaneau (28-36), near the Bon Marche. Madame Bricourt, 92, rue du Cherche Midi (36-37). Good and cheap. British and American Mission Home, yy, avenue de Wagram (2). See page 71. Madame Deflesselles, i, rue Leopold Robert (45). Furnished rooms 40 to 60 francs a month. Madame Delrieu, 225-227, rue Saint-Jacques (30-38- 46). One hundred and seventy-five francs a month and upward. Madame Gregoire, 7, rue Bara (45), near the Luxem- bourg Gardens. Thirty, 35, 40, or 42 francs a week. Twenty to thirty boarders. Madame Guerdon, 7, rue Gustave-Courbet (9-17). Six to 8 francs a day. Very comfortable. Madame Guillier, 21, rue Valette (38), very near the Panthdon. Five francs fifty to F. 8.50 a day; 39 to 58 francs a week; 155 to 250 francs a month. Large garden. High situation. Madame Hawkes, 7, avenue du Trocaddro (17). Good pension. Hostel of the International Guild, 10, rue Chateau- briand (10). STUDYING IN PARIS 21 Hostel of the British-American Young Women's Chris- tian Association, 93, boulevard Saint-Michel (30-38-45). Madame Leipmann's " Pension de la Porte Dauphine," II bis, rue Weber (r), near avenue du Bois de Bou- logne. Eight francs and upward. Garden. American references. Madame Morand, 13, rue Washington (10-3). Five to 6 francs a day. Ma'dame F. Mouroy, 8$, boulevard de Port Royal (46). Forty francs a week, and i franc extra for light. Garden. Small pension, five rooms. Madame Naudin, 22, rue Gustave-Courbet C9-17). Six to 8 francs a day. Madame Pernotte, 117, rue Notre Dame des Champs (37-45). An airy, healthy quarter, close to the Lux- embourg, within ten minutes' walk of the Sorbonne, the College de France, and the Franco-English Guild. Sitting-room. Study. Bathroom. Terms very moderate. Madame Pernotte can give the highest French, Ameri- can, or English references. Pension Rheinsburg, 60, rue Madame (37). Five francs and upward. Residence pour les Dames Etudiantes, 69, rue Ma- dame (37), near the Luxembourg Gardens and not far from the Sorbonne. This is a residence for girls or women who come to Paris for study. It is specially in- tended for those who wish to prepare for examinations at the Sorbonne, the Guilde Internationale, and the Alliance Frangaise. For single room, 250 francs a month. For a room for two persons, with a dressing- room, 200 francs apiece. For a large room divided by curtains into four cubicles, 150 francs apiece. There is accommodation for twenty boarders. The classes are arranged according to the student's knowledge of French, or for private lessons, or for those who v/ish to attend lectures at the Sorbonne, the Guilde Interna- tionale, or the Alliance Francaise. There are also special arrangements made for those who wish to study art or music. No one is received under seventeen years of age. Mrs. Sumner, 226, boulevard Raspail (37-45). Pen- sion, 6 to 7 francs a day. Very comfortable English 22 SOJOURNING, SHOPPING, AND pension. French spoken by Mile. Vantillard, who also gives lessons. Pension Saint-Joseph, 41, rue Notre Dame des Champs (37-45). Many French people spend the Winter here. C. Catting Taulcon, 14, rue Oudinot (36), near the Bon Marche. Six to 9 francs a day; 180 to 270 francs a month. Small pension, four rooms. Madame Tueberdes, 19, rue des Saints-Peres (29), near the Faubourg Saint-Germain. Seven to 8 francs a day. Madame Verley, i, rue Leopold Robert (45). Fur- nished rooms and suites of apartments. Villa des Dames, 'j'j to 79, rue Notre Dame des Champs (37-45). Hotel de famille. Furnished rooms and suites. Table d'hote or restaurant a la carte. Electric light. Large garden. Students' Hostel in the Latin Quarter, 93, boulevard Saint-Michel (30-38-45). — One of the greatest needs for British and American women staying in Paris is being met by the opening of a Students' Hostel in the Latin Quarter. This building is an hotel particulier, with a garden, and a studio in the garden. The house itself offers accommoda- tions for twenty-five to thirty women students in residence. For the benefit of those who may not live in the house a system of baths has been estab- lished in connection with the house \ there are also to be a dispensary and an infirmary, and the services of a trained nurse. On the rez-de-chaussee are the apartments of the lady in charge, the bureau, and the lodging for the concierge. The entresol has two offices for the Honorary Secretary and the Student Secretary, a reading-room, rest room ; also five single rooms overlooking the garden. The first e'tage is entirely occupied by the library, a large restaurant, and cuisine. STUDYING IN PARIS 23 The second etage has a private salon for the resi- dents in the house, and a number of single rooms and double rooms. The third etage is entirely occupied with bed- rooms. Special arrangements can be made to receive music and art pupils, and music pupils will be able to have a piano in their room. This work is under the direction of the Young Women's Christian Association, whose headquarters is at 5, rue de Turin (4), where a similar house has been open for over two years for self-supporting young women and Christian workers passing through Paris. Another branch of the Association is to be found at 44, rue Carabon (12-13), where luncheon, tea, and rest rooms occupy an entire apartment upon the rez- de-chauss'ee. Students or others wishing to visit the Association, or desiring further information, may address Miss Louisa H. Richardson, Ph.D., Honorary Secretary, 93, boulevard Saint-Michel (30-38-45), or Miss Carolyn L. Patch, General Secretary, 5, rue de Turin (4). American Students' Club (often called The Girls' Club), 4, rue de la Grande Chaumi^re (45). This club is in the Latin Quarter, and is very popular with students. No one is taken to board unless she is under forty years of age, 2i bona fide student, and an American. There is a chaperon or matron, and the atmos- phere is very homelike and pleasant. There is a small court or garden, and at the back of this is St. Luke's American Chapel, the only English-speaking church on the left bank of the Seine. This has not really any connection with the Club, although the clergyman and his wife take great interest in it. 24 SOJOURNING, SHOPPING, AND There is accommodation at the Club for about forty boarders, and the charge is 5 francs a day. There is a large reading-room ; and there is a good library, from which students are permitted to take books to their own homes. There is also a large salon (it is so large it can hardly be called a parlor, and yet it is not a hall) where every afternoon from 4.30 to 5 o'clock tea is served to all who come, and there is no age limit. This is a very pleasant feature, but it is not so uni- versally social as it might be ; for groups of acquaint- ances are apt to form and keep to themselves. But this custom has advantages also. In this room there are often entertainments and reunions, and sometimes exhibitions of pictures.. The temperature in the library and other rooms is exceedingly high. This may suit those who spend their days in the great heat of many of the studios, but it is a contrast to what one finds in the pensions of Paris, and other places, where the temperature is often too low for American taste and comfort. Either extreme is rather trying to health, and con- stitutes one of the dangers of living abroad. Restaurants. — Restaurants play a part in the life of the French of all classes that they do not play in either England or America. The French are accused of not being domestic. They are, on the contrary, in the middle and lower classes, very domestic, but they are domestic in pub- lic ! Instead of obliging the mother to drudge at home in her own tiny kitchen to cgok a family Sun- day dinner, as women of the same class do with us, the French families, from the small shop-keeping class upward, adjourn en masse, father, mother, children, and often uncles, aunts, and grandparents, to some restaurant, and there they have a gay and I STUDYING IN PARIS 25 merry family dinner, free from care, which is a rest and refreshment to the whole family. The restaurant and the cafe play an important part in French family Hfe, and it is very interesting to visit those restaurants that are frequented by French people. Restaurants where Women may Dine Alone. — There are few restaurants in Paris where women may go without escort for dejeuner, and almost none where they may dine alone. One may go alone to the smaller hotels that we have mentioned or to any of the following : The Duval Restaurants are to be found all over Paris; they are thoroughly respectable and clean; the charges are very moderate. Chabot's Restaurant, — formerly the famous Gage's, — at the corner of the rue de Presbourg (10) and the avenue Victor Hugo, is very quiet and extremely good. The food is most delicious, and the service is good. The house is patronized by a critical clientele, chiefly French people. Two women may perfectly well either dine or take dejeuner at these places. Restaurants where Women may Go w^ith an Es- cort. — There are other restaurants where it is very amusing and interesting to go, and some of them are of historic interest in a literary and political way ; but many of them are frequented by men only, and to the others women could not go without escort. Some of these restaurants are of world-wide fame for their wonderful *' creations " in the way of food. One of the oldest of the restaurants that are inter- esting, but to which a lady may not go unescorted, is the Tour d' Argent, 15, quai de la Tournelle (39). It has been a restaurant for over three hundred years, for it dates from a. d. 1582 ! It is not at all gorgeous 26 SOJOURNING, SHOPPING, AND and imposing. Its exterior and its interior are both very plain. The first impression it makes on most visitors is that it is like a country inn, with its sanded floor and plain furnishings. A creative spirit reigns here, — Frdddric, of culinary fame. He makes wonderful dishes, and names them for famous men who have praised them, — " Filet de Lievre Arnold White " ; " Poulet du Docteur Prendergast " ; " CEufs William Ravel " ; " Salade Lynch " ; *' Pois Wane- maker" (not the Wanamaker of American fame, but the British chaplain) ; " Peche Austin Lee " (of the British Embassy). But the best known and most renowned dishes made by Frederic are " Sole k la Carnival " and " Canard a la Presse." The most wonderful circumstance connected with this last dish is to see Frdddric prepare it in the dining-room. The spectator feels as if he were as- sisting at a religious rite, and the " presse " fills him with the same awe that a guillotine might. Fr^ddric does it all with solemnity and with gravity of demeanor, as a serious ceremony — as a mystery — in a hush of profound silence. All the waiters in white aprons stand about, like acolytes, awed and silent, deeply interested — or feigning to be so (for the French are always dramatic, and like a bit of sensationalism). It is finished, — the rite is done. Fr^d^ric simply disappears; and it only remains for his faithful vassals to serve the result to those who await it — and it is worth waiting for ! On the back of the menu of the Tour d'Argent is a poem by Monsieur le Marquis Lauzi^res de Thymines on the " Creations de Fr^ddric," which is fitted to the air " La Corde Sensible." Although the quai de la Tournelle (39) is above the He de la Cit^, and far away from the centre of the town, the Tour d'Argent is much resorted to by visitors to Paris. With all its age and old associations and quaint surroundings, it seems a little incongruous to see on the menu near "A. D. 1582," " Tildphone 823-32"! But Paris is a place of such sharp contrasts that to those who have sojourned there for a time nothing seems surprising. Also in the oldest part of Paris, and not far from the Tour d'Argent, is another well-known restaurant, STUDYING IN PARIS 27 LapiSrouse, 51, quai des Grands-Augustins (30V It is nearly opposite the part of the He de la Cite where the Palais de Justice stands^ and near the Pont Neuf (30). Perhaps that is why it is the resort of so many lawyers, magistrates, and other wise men, with a plentiful sprinkling of frivolous and every-day folk as well. It is a quaint, old-fashioned, low-ceiled place. Its cuisine is excellent, and its cellar is noted for its old Burgundy and some wonderful old cider brandy. Foyot's Restaurant, 22 bis, rue de Vaugirard (37) and 33, rue de Tournon (37). This is much frequented by people for supper after performances at the Theatre de rOdeon, and has also a clientele of artists and literary and military men. On the other side of the Seine, near the centre of the town, are many restaurants of the first class, and some that have very interesting historical, politi- cal, and literary associations. One of the oldest of those still existing is the Cafe de la Regence. It was founded in the seventeenth century, and became the notable resort of literary men and chess players. Two very famous men were accustomed to play chess here, who also played it on a huge scale with human beings for their pawns, — Robespierre and Napoleon Bonaparte. Typically enough, Napoleon is said to have been " a rough, impatient player, and a bad loser." Most of these very old cafes were in the neighborhood of the Palais Royal. The Regence has been moved to 161, rue St. Honore (12-21-22) ; it has recently been fitted up with much splendor, and looks very modern. Chess players of European fame still resort there, but they do not form a large proportion of its clientele now, as in the early days. Cafe Corazza, 12, Galerie Montpensier (21), and Cafe Valois, 173, Galerie Valois (21-22), were turbulent places during the days of the Revolution. All these old cafSs were dangerous places at that time, for they were 28 SOJOURNING, SHOPPING, AND haunted by spies ; and an indiscreet word in the expan- sive companionship of dinner often had serious and unexpected consequences. Among the modern restaurants of which Paris is full there are many of the first class, and some of them are noted for their wonderful cuisines and fine cellars. Some of these are for men only, but there are many that women who observe les convenances may go to provided they have an escort. Very often these restaurants have some special creations of their own, and any guest who orders dishes that are the specialite de la maison is apt to get something unusual and very near perfection. When an inexperienced foreigner wishes to give a luncheon or a dinner at a restaurant, it is often very difficult for him to choose a menu. One way to solve this difficulty is for him to engage his table and order his dinner beforehand, and if he consults the waiter about the menu he will generally find the result very satisfactory. Sometimes it is well to ask the waiter to suggest a menu to be covered by a certain sum, and then add to it if one feels inclined. But it is always more amusing to order what strikes one's fancy at the moment, and should any perplexity arise, the waiter is always ready and interested to make suggestions. Cafe de la Paix, 12, boulevard des Capucines (13). has a good cuisine, an excellent cellar, and won- derfully good service. The specialties here are " Truite Saumonde " and " Sauce Verte." This is a very fashion- able place for smart suppers after the opera and theatres, when the chocolate, for which it is famous, and the brioches are perfection. There is always music in the evening. In adjoining rooms a motley cosmopolitan crowd gathers to smoke, drink, and listen to the music. During the early days of the Third Republic the Cafe de la Paix was a meeting-place for the Imperialists. STUDYING IN PARIS 29 DuRAND, I, place de la Madeleine (12), is a very fashionable restaurant. The specialties here are eggs and " Tournedos Durand." A great many people come here for suppers. It is very popular with English and Americans. Larue, 3, place de la Madeleine (12), on the opposite corner from Durand 's, is a very good first-class restaurant. ViAN, rue Daunou (13), opposite Henry's, is a quaint place. All the cooking is delicious, and the chicken salad is noted. Green corn is always displayed in the window during the season, a most unusual sight in Europe. The prices here are moderate, and the inex- perienced diner will always find himself treated with consideration. It is a very favorite place with English and Americans. Cafe de Paris, 9, place de la Madeleine (12). People often resort here for supper after the theatre. Cafe Riche, 16, boulevard des Italiens (13), is an old and well-known restaurant. It was extremely noted in the time of the First Empire. It has been recently renovated and finely decorated, and is a first-class res- taurant with a sumptuous cuisine. Marguery, 36, boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle (14-15), ad- joining the Theatre du Gymnase, is a first-class res- taurant, and much frequented by foreigners. Its French clientele is of the rich bourgeois class. The specialty here is '' Sole k la Marguery" or " Sole k la vin blanc," of which the sauce is made of strong fish stock. The cuisine is delicious, the wines are good, the service is good, and the prices are moderate. The establishment is all in excellent taste as to decora- tions, and is most conveniently planned and arranged for comfort and good service. There is a large dining- room, but if any person desires privacy there is no extra charge for the cabinets particuliers. There is also a wonderful grotto where one may dine ; it is full of grow- ing ferns, and its walls are covered with greenery. There is a large Gothic hall for banquets and wedding break- fasts. In the Summer guests may dine at little tables behind a hedge in the open air, or on a portico. Indeed there are few places where there is so much variety in decoration and surroundings. 30 SOJOURNING, SHOPPING, AND Laurent, Champs Elys^es, near the Rond Point (n), is a charming place for dining, especially in the Spring, when the horsechestnuts, that are such a striking charac- teristic of Paris in May, are in bloom. Dinner is laid on little tables in the open air, which are sheltered by a hedge of oleanders in tubs. An awning is overhead ; and the softly shaded electric lights, the trees, the stretches of grass, and in the distance, on the Champs Elysdes, the twinkling lights of the cabs like fire- flies, all look very pretty. If it were not for the distant rumble of wheels and the faint tinkle of the bells of the cabs, one could well imagine oneself on the lawn of a country house. The cooking here is very good, but the prices are not small ! Ledoyen's, Champs Elysdes (12), below the Petit Palais, is also a first-class restaurant. Here on "Var- nishing day " many smart people come for dijeuner; on that day frivolous costumes and the newest creations of the leading dressmakers and milliners make a contrast to the serious-looking artistic and literary folk who also con- gregate here. Armenonville, in the Bois de Boulogne, is a most attractive place. It is in the midst of the Bois, with nothing in sight to remind one that a large city is near. It is on the Allde de Longchamp, which up to mid- day is the haunt of all the fashionable world of Paris whose pleasure is riding and seeing those who ride. It is the " Rotten Row " of Paris. A great many fashionable Frenchwomen drive out here in their carriages, which they keep waiting while they walk. After their morning's ride in the Bois, many people have luncheon at the restaurant of Armenonville. The cooking here is very good and the wine excellent. The place is a fashionable resort for afternoon tea. When the weather is cool, it is served inside the restaurant, which is like a huge glazed veranda. When the weather is fine, it is served at little tables outside under the trees. A very fine Hungarian band plays in the season dur- ing both tea and dinner. Tables should be engaged beforehand. The scene at the dinner hour is very animated, with STUDYING IN PARIS 31 music and lights, and the gay world all in evening dress. This is one of the few restaurants where evening dress is almost obligatory. The women wear smart toilettes (not dicolletie) and hats. There are little thatched summer- houses, lighted with shaded electric lights, which are most enticing places for dining when the weather is warm. The scene is at its best on a Sunday after the races. Pavillon Royal, in the Bois de Boulogne, is more a cafe than a restaurant, and is greatly resorted to for afternoon tea. It is a most attractive place, and people who are not too exigeant may have very nice little luncheons there. It is quieter than at Armenonvillle, although very gay and animated. Sitting at table, one looks out on a really beautiful view of the lake. Caf]^ de Madrid is another very attractive restaurant in the Bois. It has much the same charm as Armenon- ville, and the low, rambling house looks very picturesque in the evening, with the brilliant lights and the gay com- pany of diners. When the weather is fine, dinner is served in the open air. One of the curious sights to the foreigner in Paris is a bourgeois wedding. A carriage may be seen — sometimes it is lined with white satin ! — containing a veiled bride, the bridegroom, and generally the maid of honor and the best man. It is followed by other carriages, or by an omnibus if the people are not rich enough for carriages, filled with the parents and relations, all in gala costume. After the marriage ceremony they generally drive out through the Bois de Boulogne to the Cafe de la Cascade, which is a favorite place for wedding breakfasts for people of that class. The dancing and other festivities often last till a late hour. There is an old restaurant near the Palais Royal, Au BcEUF A LA Mode, 8, rue de Valois (21-22). The cook- ing is good, and the place has in its atmosphere a touch of former times. The clientele is chiefly of the French bourgeois class, and it is an interesting and amusing place to go to because it is so thoroughly French, and so different from much that is usually seen by tourists. Men and women of the world are much the. same everywhere, and for this reason there are not such 32 SOJOURNING, SHOPPING, AND distinct differences in the fashionable restaurants of different countries as in those of a humbler class. It is an interesting experience to visit the Brasserie Universelle, 31, avenue de I'Opera (13-21), where they have wonderful hoj's d^ceuvre; and the Caf^ Viennois, where there is music in the evening. These are both very amusing and entertaining places to go to if one is interested to see things that have a distinctly French character, but they are not fashionable. Tea Rooms. — There are many tea houses in Paris, where an hour may be spent very pleasantly among lively people. Rumpelmayer's, on the rue de Rivoli (31), is well known and always filled with a gay crowd at the tea hour. At this house the sherbets and other drinks are made of spring water only, so they are quite safe, which one cannot always feel sure of at other places. Columbin's, on the rue Cambon (20), is another old and well-known tea room. These two places are much frequented by Enghsh and Americans. At the Ritz, in the place Vendome (13), there is always a gay crowd at the tea hour, and there one may be very sure of seeing the latest and most exquisite cre- ations of the leading French dressmakers and milliners. On Sundays it is well to engage one's table ahead. In the Spring the Ritz is particularly charming, for there is a lovely garden, and tea is served at little tables out- side on the terrace under the awnings. The tea at the Ritz is specially good, and may be bought by the pound in boxes. There is a very nice, quiet English place called the Val Rosa, 5, rue Cambon (12-13), nearly opposite Col- umbin's, where the tea and scones and English muffins are delicious. One of the oldest tea rooms in Paris is at Smith's Librairie, on the rue de Rivoli, number 248, near the place de la Concorde (20). It is over the bookshop. Chabot's, on the corner of the avenue Victor Hugo and the rue de ^ Presbourg (10), is one of the best places near the Etoile ; and many French people resort there. STUDYING IN PARIS 33 In the Bois de Boulogne tea may be had at the Pavillon Royal. In fine weather the guests sit at little tables outside under the trees, and are pleas- antly entertained with the orchestra and the gay crowd and the movement of the people walking and driving past. In Winter, after a cold, fresh walk in the Bois, it is delightful to sit inside the warm glazed veranda sipping tea or chocolate, and looking out at the sunset behind the pine trees and over the lake. The restaurant of Armenonville, on the avenue des Acacias (1-2), is an attractive place for tea ; there are little thatched summer-houses which make a very agree- able shelter, besides the tables under the trees. There is an orchestra also, but in neither of these places is there music during the winter months. The Chalet des Iles is on an island in the lake in the Bois; it is a pretty Swiss-looking