Qass-Jk Book Mi **mmrpfmmmmmmmmmmMmummnrmmim** omcricc>, •) WW/Tar/f-nm-.i 's- M?/'///s, /// A list of additions and corrections is given at the end of this volume; and any information tend- ing to make it more accurate, useful, or curious, will be thankfully received by the publishers. THE PICTURE OP NEWCASTLE UPQNTYNE. Pons jElii. — In the seventy ninth year of the christian aera Julius Agricola completed the conquest of the country of the Brigrantes. After this he spent three years in subduing the province of the Meataa and in securing his conquests with strong fortifications. These nations were separated by the river Tyne, and all modern antiquaries agree that he built a chain of forts between them ; but no antient author expressly mentions the circumstance, nor have any antiquities been found to establish the conjecture. If, however, it cannot be completely ascertained that Newcastle was the scite of a Roman fort in the time of Agricola, it can with great confidence be as- serted that it became a place of importance under the auspices of iEhus Hadrianus. That emperor came into Britain in the year 120, and built, accord- ing to Spartian, a wall eighty Roman miles in length, from sea to sea. This wall commenced at Pons 3 PONS ^LIX. JElii, upon the Tyne, and ended at Tunnocelum, on Solway Firth, at which place were stationed the first cohort of iElian marines. Hadrian was of the iElian family. He rebuilt Jerusalem, and called it JElia Capitolina. The games at Pincum in Mcesia were of his institution, and called iElia Pincensia. Two medals, one bearing a bridge with five, the other one with seven arches were struck in his reign. The iEiian bridge at Rome has five arches, and as seven might span the Tyne at Newcastle, and the station here bore the name of the iElian bridge, it is not un- fair to suppose that the medal, bearing the bridge of seven arches, was struck to commemorate the build- ing of a bridge at this place by Hadrian. It is cer- tain that Newcastle bridge was of Roman origin, for coins of emperors, both before and after the time of Hadrian, were found in its piers about the time of rebuilding it, after the great flood, in 1771. Late discoveries have also ascertained the real scite of the Roman station here ; for in digging the foundations of the new county court, in 1810, two Roman altars, coins of Antoninus Pius, a beautiful fragment of a Corinthian pillar, large stags horns, and several other Roman antiquities were discovered. Under more than twenty feet of rubbish was also found a deep well, cased with fine ashlar work, It was surround- ed by a square wall, built on frames of oak timber. There were also large remains of other foundations of thick strong walls ; and the whole scite of the court house was nothing less than a chaos of Roman ruins ; a circumstance which clearly points out the high an- tiquity of the town, and at last places it upon a level MONKCHESTER. 3 with the other stations of the wall, as a place still rich in treasures of this kind. Monkchester — Under the Saxon kings of Northumberland, Pons JElii became so famous for its monasteries, as to be called Monkchester; but, when the Danish army under Halden ravaged the banks of the Tyne, it suffered desolation in common with all other places of civilization and religion. In 1074, says Simeon of Durham, three Mercian monks, came to York and desired of Hugh, the son of Baldric, who was then sheriff, a guide to Monkchester, which is now called the New Castle. Arriving at this place, they stayed at it a short time ; but, finding no vestige of the antient congregation of the servants of Christ, they went to Jarrow, where they settled, and, amidst the ashes of the offices of that antient monastery, and its half ruined churches, rekindled that zeal for monas- tic life, which had so long time been extinct in these parts.* Castle of Newcastle.— -Though two centu- ries had been sufficient to sweep away the humble edifices of the relidotis of Monkchester, vet the ve- nerable walls of Pons JElii had so effectually braved the rudeness and the storms of eight hundred vears, that when Robert Curthose, in his return from his expedition against Malcolm, king of Scotland, in 1080, erected a fort upon their ruins, it was called, in opposition to these remains, The New Castle upon Tyne.f As this building protected the bridge from the at- tacks of the Scots, and secured at all times a free pass A c 2 • De Gest. Reg, Acg, col. zo6. f lb- six. 4 CASTLE OF NEWCASTLE. for the English armies into Northumberland, it was a place of considerable importance. Rufus, however, was the first who had to employ his arms against it ; for in the rebellion headed by Earl Mowbray it was one of the castles seized by his adherents* Before the garrison surrendered to the king, their leader fled to Tinmouth, There also he found himself insecure, and fled to Bamborough, in which castle he sustained a long and vigorous siege ; but, yielding to the solicita- tions of the guards of Newcastle, he was betrayed from his strong hold and taken to Windsor Castle, where he died in great wretchedness, after a confine- ment of thirty years^ King John made additional works to this castle, and large sums were expended on its repairs in suc- ceeding reigns. The Black-gate was built by Henry III., and cost 5141. 15s. lid. John Baliol did homage here to Edward I. for the crown of Scotland. Amongst its constables we find the names of Richard duke of Gloucester, several of the Percys, Hugh de Bolbeck, John de Nevil, Sir Ralph de Eure, John de Copeland, and other celebrated names. Several of the old Northumbrian barons, such as Heron, Whalton, Lord Robert de Clifford, the chief lord of the barony of Gaugie, the lords of Devitstone, Wark, and Bolbeck, and the barons of Bothal and Delaval seem to have had houses for its defence within its li- berties. It was, however, so completely stript of its splendour in 1605, as to be let to the incorporated company of taylors, for the paltry sum of 40s. a year; and before that, in the 31st of queen Elizabeth, it is described as a place of refuge for thieves and vaga- CASTLE OF NEWCASTLE, 5 bonds flying from the justice of the town. While the free burgesses assumed to themselves the exclusive right of carrying on trade and manufactories in the town, the Castle Garth continued the resort of ped- lars, and chapman of various descriptions, and is even to this day the rag-fair of the town. It has been a place of considerable strength and beauty. When Newcastle was taken by the Scots, in 1644, sir J. Marley planted cannon upon it, and bravely defended it for eight days after the town sur- rendered. The Bla> k-gate was always the main en- trance, and had a draw-bridge both within and with- out. Besides this there were three posterns in its walls, which were of great strength, and enclosed an area of more than three acres. The keep or great tower was strengthened on the south and west side* with a second wall, in which w r ere one large gateway and two posterns. The e trance into the keep was by a flight of steps on the outside to the second story: / a circular staircase on the south east corner led down to the great hall, and below if to the dungeon. The door ot the main entrance has been ornamented with short pilasters, and zigzag work. On the head of the outside staircase is a small oratory, a^d beneath it the king's chapel, a place of very rich Norman archi- tecture. The wails of die tower have chambers with- in them, and are about fouiieen feet thick. The kitchen was on the nortn side of the first floor, and the kmg^ c< amber on the south side 01 the second floor. Ti.e tower is eighty-two leet high, and the square of it on the outside is sixty two feet by fifty- four. When the soutn part of the inner waR was taken A 3 € CASTLE OF NEWCASTLE* down in 1811, to obtain a way to the County Courts through Bailiff-gate, the base of the keep, still in fine preservation, was exposed by clearing off a large ac- cumulation of rubbish. Its uppermost gallery is more modern than the rest* There is a well on the north- east corner, and conduits from it to the lower stories. The dungeon is supported by one pillar, in the center of which is one of these conduits. The eastern tower of Black-gate, which may be viewed in a yard in the Side, is worthy of observation* The old Moot-Hall was pulled down in 1810. It exhibited at that time a curious mixture of Roman., Norman, Gothic, and modern architecture. Its east- ern wall appears to have been the wall of the Roman station. It is of vast thickness, has a semi-circular door-way, is built of square, tessilated ashlar-work, and ranges with a wall every way similar to itself and whose foundations were discovered under the County Court. At the north end of the Moot-Hall was a range of low Norman arches and pilasters; its roof was sup- ported by two heavy pointed arches; and its front had square windows with stone mullions, and the arms of England quartered with those of Scotland, over the main entrance. Till Elizabeth's time, we are sure the county courts were held in the great tower. After the time of James I. the old chapel of the garrison was converted into a Moot-Hall, and the dungeon of the keep reserved for the county prison during the time of the assizes. The whole of the Castle Garth is in the county of Northumberland; though its inhabitants, since the SI st of Elizabeth, have been subject in all criminal TOWN WALLS. J prosecutions to the sheriff of the county of New- castle. The County Courts are on the scite of the old half-moon battery. Several thousand cart loads of rub- bish were led away before a foundation for this building could be procured. Great care and singular indus- try have been employed in constructing the ground- work of the most massive and durable materials. It is now building under the direction of Mr Stokoe, architect, and is expected to be one of the tinest and purest specimens of Grecian architecture ever attempt* ed in Britain. Town Walls. — Hardyng, in his Chronicle, not only attributes the building of the castle to William Kufus; but, as it should seem, ascribes the origin of the walls of this town to his policy. He buylded the Newcastell upon Tyne The Scottes to gaynstande, and to defende And dwell therin, the people to enclyne The towne to builde and walle as did append He gave them ground and golde ful great to spend To buylde it well and walle it all aboute, And fraunchised theira to pay a free rente out. These walls are mentioned in the charter of the 17th of king John; andEdward I. granted the Black Friars a passage to their garden through the- new wall. The same king, in 1299, united Pampedon with Newcastle, which occasioned the new wall to be built through the close of the Carmelites on Wall- Knoll. A manuscript in the Cotton library says, " that in the reign of Edward I. a person of great opulence in Newcastle was taken prisoner by the B TOWN WAL1S. Scots, and, being at last ransomed by a large sum, lie first of all, began to surround the town with walls. His fellow citizens followed his example, and in the time of Edward III. the whole town was encom- passed with a very strong wall/' Leland tells the same story, and adds, " the strength and magmficens of the waulling of this town far passeth al the waulles of the cities of England, and most of the townes of Elirope." After the completing of the walls, the town was divided into twenty-four wards, according to the num- ber of gates and towers in them. In 1402, nightly watches were kept upon them by one hundred per- sons, at the charge of the inhabitants. Parliament granted 2 ; 564l. towards their repair, after the destruc- tive seige by the Scots, in 1644. Happier times than those they originated in have, however, superseded their utility. The part between Sandhill and Sand* gate was removed at the charge of the corporation, and by order of the privy council, hi 1762. They have also been taken down between the Tyne 'bridge and the scite oi the Closegate; and are altogether much delapidated. The linest remains of them are hi Carliol Croft, behind Charlotte Square, and from the Westgate to White Friar tower. The principal gates in these walls were the Bridge- gate, Closegate, the Postern, Wes'gate, Newgate, Pilgrimstreet gate, Pandon-gate, Wallknoll-gate, and Sandgate. The Closegate was used as a prison af- ter the * ridge fell in 1771. The PosUrn-gate was remarkably strong, having ->atts of oak, iron doors, and a very heavy portcullis. Through it, in the reigo (Jates. 9 of Edward III., three hundred valiant men sallied by night, and rushing into the camp of the Scots, routed the whole army and took earl Murray prisoner in his tent. # Leland calls the Westgate " a mightye strong thinge of four wards and an yron gate/' Tra- dition attributes its building to Roger Thornton, a merchant, who rose from indigence to great opulence, and of whom it has been facetiously said : " In the Westgate came Thornton in With a- happen hapt in a ram's skynn." Newgate, called by Froissart La Porte de Berwick, has been long used as the county prison of Newcastle : its portcullis is still remaining. Pilgrimstreet-gate ' is a very strong edifice, flat roofed, with embi azures, a portcullis and iron gates.'*f- i Pandon-gate, so called from the antient towne of Pampedon, where was the Picts' wall and a Roman tower.'J As old as Pandon Yate is a proverb of great antiquity. The gate of Wallknoll, and the whole of the town wall, across Pandon, may be considered of Roman origin, being exactly on the scite of the Picts' wall. The Bridge- gate and Sandgate * were added in more modern times.' All these gates, except the Westgate, New- gate, and that on Wallknoll have been deemed nui- sances and removed ; and, as the dismantling of West- gate is Jar advanced, it is not likely that either vene- ration for the memory of Thornton, or deference to the monuments of antient times, will long preserve it from destruction. The gates were all embattled, and the walls at all • Johnes' Frois. Chron. f Hutch* Northumb. vol. ii. p. 373, \ Grey's Chor. p. 8, 10 EELIGIOUS HOUSES. points defended with strong towers, " between each of which there were for the most part two watch towers made square with effigies of men cut in stone upon the top of them, as though they were watching, and they are called garret, which had square holes over the walls to through stones down."* The whole circumference of the walls, according to Button's plan, is 2740 yards. They were twelve feet high and eight feet thick ; and strengthened with a foss uniformly twenty-two yards broad. This foss in 1312 was called \ the New Foss/ and at present is styled the King's Dykes. RELIGIOUS HOUSES. NuNNEEYr — In 1086 Agas, the mother of Mar- garet queen of Scotland, and Christiana, her sister, re- tired to a nunnery in this town. Leland says it was of the Benedictine order ; and a manuscript in the Bodlean library ascribes its foundation to a baron de Hilton/f- Speed says it owed its origin to Henry I., and Fordun contends that it was founded in 1135, by David, king of Scotland. It was dedicated to St. Bartholomew. Among other grants to this house there was one of certain property in Hartlepool, "for purchasing smocks for the nuns."§ Its yearly revenue in 12921 was 171. 10s. 7d. Bishop Hatfield, pitying its miserable estate, both with respect to temporals and spirituals, committed € the poor servants ol Christ' here to the care of Hugh de Arncliffe, priest of St. Nicholas, in Newcastle. The hospital of St. Ed- * Bourne, p. 17. f Brand ii. 4.04* § Mado* Form, Ang. p, t* RELIGIOUS HOUSES. l\ mund in Gateshead was appropriated to this institu- tion. It was preserved from dissolution by letters patent of Henry VIII. dated Mch. 30, 1537: but resigned, and was fully suppressed Jan. 3, 1540. Its clear yearly value at that time was 361. 10s. It was situated in the field behind the Nungate, where several pieces of its walls, doors and windows are still to be seen in the premises belonging to the Turk's Head. It became a receptacle to persons not free of the town ; and was therefore pulled down a- bove a century ago : its scite was then levelled and the dene filltd up with its rubbish. * It was from corner to corner eleven score yards.' # Black friars. — This bouse was founded about a. d. 1251. by sir Peter Scot avid his son sir Nicho- las. Sir Peter was the first mayor of Newcastle; and his son was chosen one of the four bailiffs for three different years. It was instituted for a prior and brethren of the order of St. Dominic. They wore a white cassock with a white hood over it, in their house ; and abroad they had a black cloak and hood, over all. They were one of the four orders of men- dicants; and were called in Newcastle Shod Friars, in opposition to the practice of the Grey Friars, who went barefooted. It was in the chinch of this house that Edward Baliolf did homage to Edward III. for the crown of Scotland.^ It is said to have been dependent on the priory of Tynemouth. At the dissolution it consisted of a prior and twelve brethren, and had an annual income * Bourne p. 50. f Rym. Faed. iv. 617. f Knyghtoa de Event Ang. col, 1559* &c. 12 RELIGIOUS HOUSES, of £l 19s* 4d. It was granted by Henry VIII. Mch. 10, 1544, to the mayor and burgesses of Newcastle; and by them in 1552 to nine of the mysteries or an- tient trades of the town, seven of whom have their halls in it to this day. The present remains of it shew that it has been a building of considerable beauty. Its well is still in use and called our Lady's Well. € It is a pity, says Bourne, that those people who are permitted by the companies to reside in it, are not threatened into more cleanliness ; and that the companies themselves are not at the expence of re- pairing the area. Were these things done, it would be a beautiful piece of antiquity, and the entertainment of the curious from whence soever they came/ Augustine friars. The first appearance of this religious order in England was about the year 1£50. It has not been fully ascertained at what time they settled in Newcastle ; though it is generally sup- posed that this house was founded by William lord Ross, baron of Wark upon Tweed, about the year 1£90. It is known on good authority to have exist- ed in 1291. # Though it was a house of great cele- brity, its revenues were extremely small at the disso- lution,, when it was surrendered Jan. 9; 1539, by Andrew Kel, its prior, seven brethren and three novices. These premises in 1540 ad usum domini regis re- servaniur pro consilio suo in partibus borealis. " Tie kings of Northumberland, says Grey, were buried here, and the place in succeeding ages has • Tanner. Bourne, 136. RELIGIOUS HOUSES. 13 been inlarged and beautified with stately buildings, cloysters and a faire church. The kings of England since kept house in it when they came with an army royall against Scotland ; and since the suppression of the monasteriese made a magazine and storehouse for the north parts. Now of late that princely fabrick demolished and layd levell with the ground."* In Le- land's time " it had three or four faire towers belong- ing to it." King James granted it to a Scotchman, who took the lead off it and sold it. He sold also the stones to sir Peter Riddel, who " built the south end of his fine house with them."+ It was in the hands of the cor- poration in 1648, w 7 hen the common-council granted a part of its scite to the Barber Surgeons to build a meeting house on. Pike and gun exercise were per- formed here by the townsmen. The house of cor- rection, a tallow house for the butcher's company, the hospital of Jesus, Blackett's hospital, the hospital of the two Davisons, the charity school of All Saints, a work house and penitentiary house, have been found- ed within its limits. Franciscan or Grey Friars, — This was the most eminent of the four orders of mendicants. They wore a grey habit and were called minors, from their profession of humility. Their house ia this town stood near the mansion of George Anderson, esquire, which Grey calls " a princely house built out of the mines of the Fryers." It was founded by the opulent and commercial family of Carliols, in B • Chor. 13. I Bourne, p. t 5 7. 14 RELIGIOUS HOUSES. the lime of Henry III. After the reformation in this order by St. Bernard of Sienna, his followers were called observants or recollects, and the rest [conven- tuals. Henry VII. expelled the conventuals from this house, and filled it with observants. His succes- sor, however, restored its ancient order ; but it was prevailed upon to surrender, Jan. 9, 1539, when it consisted of John Cray forth, prior, eight friars and two novices. The Franciscans enjoying no property, their house here was of small value at the suppression. This body had a conduit from a fountain called the Seven-head- well, which was walled about and locked up. The spring being abundant they gave the public leave to use it ; but the favour being abused by breaking up the conduit, and changing its course, the brethren obtained a royal grant from Edward HI., in 1342, who was then in Newcastle, to wall it in again, lock it up, and keep the key, as formerly, without infringement of their exclusive right. This well is at the head of Lork-burn and still kept in good repair. The scholastic doctor Hugh of Newcastle belong- ed to this house. Duns Scotus also entered into the order of minors here. This celebrated scholar was born at Embleton in Northumberland, was educated at Oxford, and at Paris became the opposer of Aqui- nas. His works are large and were printed at Lyons in 10 vols. fol. 3 639. Friar Martin of Alnwick, another great scholar, took the habit of St. Francis in this convent, and was buried in it, a. d. 1338. Friars of the order of Sac. — The mo- nastery of this order stood at the foot of Westgate- RELIGIOUS HOUSES. 15 street, near White Friar tower. They were settled here in 1268, and were called, friars of the sac or of the penance of Jesus. Their house was granted by Edward III. to the carmalites of the Wallknoll, on condition that Walter de Charleton, the only survi- ving brother, was supported during his life as became his rank. The Carmalites or White Friars had their first residence on Wallknoll. Edward Dinley, a learned carmalite, flourished among them in 1450. Gerald Spor, prior, with seven brethren and two novices, surrendered it Jan. 11, 1539, when the whole of their possessions amounted to the trifling sumof9l« Us. 4d. Dr. Adam Askew bought the scite of this house in 1740, and built upon it a hand- some mansion, in the kitchen of which some vestiges of the walls and windows of the priory still remain. St. Michael's Priory upon Wallknoll. On their final removal from this place to the house of the friars of the sac, the carmalites by royal authority granted the premises here to William de Acton, a burgess of Newcastle, who gave it to the Trinitarians or Maturines, styled also the order of the Holy Trinity for the redemption of captives. This order had the rule of St. Austin, and wore white robes, with a red and blue cross upon their breasts. One part of their re- venues was appropriated to their own use, another to the poor, and the third to the liberation of christians in captivity 'among infidels. Their house here was surrendered by Thomas Wade, its last master or war- den, Jan. 10, 1539. The east end of the chapel of b 2 16 HELIGIOUS HOUSES. this priory was standing in Bourne's time, and Brand discovered " some .vestiges of old buildings, door- ways, &c. still remaining." St. Mary's Hospital is situated on the south side of Westgate-street. It consisted of a hospital and chapel founded in the time of Henry II. by Ase- lack of Kiilinghowe. He built it on his own ground, and placed in it two friars regular and a chaplain, to serve God and the poor. Provision was also made for indigent clergymen and strangers that were tra- velling. Its benefactors were numerous, " The Hospital of our Lady called Westgate Spittle was founded by the inhabitants of New- castle, for a master, and chaplain, to say divine service for 6 bede folks in the almshouse, and to lodge poor and wayfaring people, and to bury such as happened to die there, and to distribute yearly nine chaldrons of coals among poor people/' If Bourne has given this account on any good authority, it rather relates to some enlargement of the foundation than the origin .of the institution.* Its yearly revenues in 1535 were 261. 13s. 4d. It fell to the crown by statute of 31st of Hen. VIII.; but the house and its rents were still enjoyed, and the community of Newcastle, as usual, presented a mas- ter to the bishop of Durham. The old charter being lost, James I. granted a new one, which decreed that this foundation should in future consist of a master, * There was an inventory of the wardrobe, plate, &c. of this houfe taken in 1444. See Bourne 32. Brand i. 77. Hutc. ii. 390. RELIGIOUS HOUSES. 17 who should at least be a master of arts, and of six un- married poor old men, constituting together a body politic in law, and having a common seal." Dr. " Davar was master of this house and archdea- con of Northumberland when Leland visited New- castle : — he supplied that excellent antiquary with much information. Dawes, the very learned author of Miscellanea Critica, was also some time master of this hospital : He died at He worth-shore. The election of the mayor and officers of the town was held in this hospital in 1512, according to antient custom, as appears by the ordinary of the drapers* company. The chancel of its church was fitted up as an election room in queen Elizabeth's time, and still continues to be used for the same purpose. Magdalen Hospital. — The leprosy, a most lothsome and contagious disease, formerly raged with such violence in this kingdom, as to induce the neces- sity of establishing lazar-houses in almost every town. This hospital was founded by Henry I. for a master, brethren and three sisters, who were to receive per- sons afflicted with this pestilence. The grant was confirmed by a papal bull. Though the institution was dissolved by statute of 31. Henry VIII, it never came in charge before the king's auditors, or paid rent to his receiver. " It was founded," says an authority dated 154G, " for a master bretherene and systers to receyve all suche leprose folks as should fortune to be diseased of that kynde of sickness and syns that kynd oi sickeness is abated it is used for the comforte and b 3 18 HELIGIOTJS HOUSES* helpe of the poore folke of the towne that chaunceth to falf sycke in tyme of pestilence. Yerely valew 91. Lis. 4d." According to Bourne, it had fourteen persons re- siding in it, each of whom was allowed a room/ coals and eight shillings a month. Fifteen others were a sort of out patients, with different allowances, some of eight shillings, some of five shillings and some of two shillings and sixpence a month. James I. in 1611, incorporated it by charter with the chapel of St. Thomas a Becket. By this charter it was decreed, that the united institutions should con- sist of a master, who should at least be a master of arts, and three old, poor, unmarried burgesses of the town, and that the mayor and common council should be patrons ; the master to have a third part pf the rents, and the rest to be divided amongst the brethren. Part of the hospital is still remaining be- tween Vine-lane and Barras-bridge ; and near it are St. Mary Magdalen's Well, Maudlin Meadows, and the Sick Man's Close. Barras is a corruption of Barrows, a term antiently applied to all kinds of burial ground ; and at this place to the cemetery of the lazer house. St. James* Chapel is on the north side of Barras-bridge. In 1542, Edward Burrel, then master of Magdalen Hospital, is also styled " Pre- \dsour, of the chapell of St. Jayrnes and of the lazer house neighe adjoining to the said hospital! ." It was certainly, as Brand thinks, an appendage to the Mag- dalen. " In the east end of it is a dwelling hotise^ RELIGIOUS HOUSES. 1Q the fire place of which stands on the scite of the communion table. Old arches, built up with brick, are still observeable, and the eastern window may be traced out from the stairs of an adjoining house. The whole building is called at present. — " The Sick Man's House." Brand, i. 196. St. Mary's Chapel and Hospital at Jes- mond, existed in 1351. Their founder unknown. The corporation obtained a grant of it from Edward VI., and in the same year sold it to sir John Brand- ling. " There remains one of the little windows of the hospital in the west gable of a house, at present a public house. The chapel has had a north aisle, which is now a stable, and the chapel itself is now a barn/'* Such is the situation of a place, which in former ages was resorted to by " pilgrims, who came from all parts of the kingdom to worship at it."f Jesmond is said to be derived from Jesus Mount ; there having been an artificial mount at or near the village, on which a cross or some image of Christ was placed. St. Lawrence Chapel stood on the edge of the Tyne, a little below Ouse Burn. It was granted by Edward VI. to the corporation. It was called the chapel or chantry of St. Lawrence, within the manor of Byker and in the parish of All Saints. ft The said fre chapell was founded by the auncestors of the late erle of Northumberland toward fyndyng of a prieste to pray for their so wis and all christian sowls, and also to herbour suclj persons and wayfayr * Brand i, 198, t Bourne, p. 81. £0 UELIGIOUS HOUSES. ing men in time of nede as it is reported. Yerely value 60s. In 1558 its annual rent was 111. 8s. 8d. u I found it converted into a lumber room to an ad- joining glass house. The neighbouring work people talk of treasure as being buried in a vault somewhere near it, and suppose it to be haunted by apparitions/'* Ben well Chapel.—-" The old tower of Ben- well Hall was the place where the prior of Tinmouth resided part of the summer; and the chapel, which Mr Shaftoe opens, and supplies for the good of the people of the village, was the priors domestic cha- pel."f There was a register book belonging to it and ending in 1742, in the possession of Mr Rutter, attorney-at-law, in Mr Brand's time. The chapel has been pulled down ; but a vault and a few grave stones still continue to mark the scitb of its burying ground.;}; Maison de Dieu. — Roger Thornton, a wealthy merchant, and a member of parliament, was the greatest benefactor the town of Newcastle ever had. Almost all its antient institutions were indebted to his munificence. He obtained from Henry IV. a licence to alien in mortmain to the corporation a piece of ground one hundred feet in length, and twenty-four in breadth, on which to build a ' House of God/ where certain poor persons should be provided with meat and clothing. It was for a warden, brethren and sisters of the hospital of St. Catharine, called Thornton s hospital. * Brand, i, 395. Bourne, 157. f lb. 113, I Brand i. 111. RELIGIOUS HOUSES. £1 The son of its founder granted the use of its hall and kitchen t for a young couple when they were married, to make their wedding dinner in, and receive the offerings and gifts of their friends ; for at that time houses were not large. ,# In the 37 Henry VI11. 'the value of its ornaments, jew r els, plate, goodes, and catalls, was 62s. 8d. and its clear yearly revenues about that time amounted to 81. Id. It continued in the Thornton family after its dissolution ; for sir Richard Lumley, one of their descendants, by the female line, conveyed it, June 1, 1624, to the corporation for ever. The mer- chants' court was built over the Maison-Dieu ; ,# and the house itself has been converted into warehouses. In Speed's plan of the town, it is the only building "noiicea on hie sandnin. Heaton Chapel. — From the wardrobe account of the 28 Edward I. published by the Society of An-* tiquaries, there appears to have been a chapel at Heaton, at which that monarch attended to hear a bishop of boys perform the vespers of St. Nicholas (Dec. 7, 1299) and on which occasion he gave to this clerical phenomenon, and to certain boys that came to sing \\ ith him, the sum of 40s. Other Chapels. — There have been several other chapels within the boundaries of Newcastle ; but sufficient light has not been thrown upon their history to enable us to discover either the intention of their founders or the time they began to be disused. * Grey's Chor. printed an. 1649. 22 ££LIGI0US HOUSES. In a deed preserved in the archives of Newcastle, and dated Nov. 20, l6l6, a tenement is mentioned u as knowne by the name of the ladies cha^l on Tyne bridged In taking down the tower of the bridge, after the flood in 177 1, a stone coffin and a skeleton were found in it; and on the north side of this tower there was cut, rudely, in stone, on a shield, a holy lamb passant. # There is a remarkable house in Grindon Chare, concerning which there is a tradition that it was call- ed St. John's Chapel. It is built of stone with but- tresses on the outside, and has a crypt, now used as a cellar. Human bones have been dug up about it. Boefhius, Fordun, and other Scottish historians assert that David, king of Scotland, founded a monastery of Praernonstratensians in Newcastle. The village of Fenham belonged to this order ; and Bourne supposes that the chapel of St. Lawrence " was dependent on the Priory of St. John of Jerusalem." There was antiently in the town's hatch a writing indorsed, " The agreement made betwixt the prior of St. John and the towne of Newcastle, touching a water-gate ;" a circumstance which would induce the belief that either their house or some of their possessions were situated near the river. We have mentioned the chapels within the walls of the castle in our account of that place. The villages of St. Peter's and St. Anthony's in the parish of AH Saint's, have probably derived their names from some ecclesiastical establishment; but we have met with neither tradition nor record to support the conjecture. • Brand, i. 47. 23 CHURCHES and CHAPELS. St, Nicholas. This antient and beautiful edi* flee, dedicated to St. Nicholas, bishop of Myra, was founded, a. d. 109 1, by St. Osmund, bishop of Salis- bury, earl of Dorset, and a follower of the Conquer- or .* Henry I. appropriated its rectorial revenues to the church of Carlisle. Its privileges were still more considerably abridged during the episcopacy of Nicho- las Farenham ; and according to a manuscript in the Exchequer its proceeds were divided in the following manner, in 1291: to the bishop of Carlisle, its rec- tor, 381. 13s. 4d. — to the prior of Carlise, 381. 13s. 4d. — to the prior of Tinmouth, 81. — to the vicar of Newcastle (who paid out of his portion, 13 marks a year to his rector) 201. 5s. — in all, 1051. lis. 8d. Henry VIII. among other things, granted " a moiety of the rectory of Newcastle upon Tyne" to the dean and chapter of Carlisle, enjoining the payment of 8l. a year out of it to the bishop of Durham. The pre- sentation to this living is in the see of Carlisle ; but its vicar claims jurisdiction over and right of nomination to the other three parochial churches of this town, as also right of nomination to the chapel of Gosforth. The respective limits of the four parishes of Newcas- tle were settled in 1220, though it is supposed that in the Saxon times the whole town was included in the parish of Gosforth. This church appears to have been burnt down in 1216; and to have been rebuilt, as it now stands, in 1359. It is eighty yards long. The truces of Scot- land were ratified in its vestry, Aug, 13, 145 It f Brand i, 237. Bourne j6» 24 CHTTRCHES AND CHAPELS. u A. D. 1783, a subscription was opened, which produced a very large sum of money, to defray the expences of a plan for converting this church into a kind of cathedral, which is now completed with great taste and elegance; but the antiquary must forever la- ment the alterations, as almost all the antient funeral monuments have been destroyed/' Brand i 247- St. Mary's Porch, stalled in a handsome manner with oak, was till lately used at morning and evening- prayers. The festival of St. George was celebrated by lord Sheffield, president and knight of the garter, in the porch of that saint, in 1617 :— this porch, says Grey, was " built by some of the kings of this land." There were also nine or ten oratories here, the burial places of opulent Northumberland families, and which were endowed with lands and other revenues for the maintenance of chaplains, who officiated at their al- tars, and said daily prayers -for the souls of their founders and those of their families. These chantries at the dissolution were valued at 481. 4s, 6d. " In it are many sumptuous windows; that in the east surpasseth all the rest in height, largenesse and beauty, where the twelve apostles, seven deeds of charity, &c. built by Roger de Thornton, (a great benefactor of this towne) with this inscription, Orate pro anima Rogeri Thornton, fy pro animabusjiliorum fyfiliarum." " In the north part of the same is a shrine of Henry the fourth Percy earle of Northumberland, who was killed by the hands of the rebells in Yorkeshire, gather- ing up a subsidy: he was buried at Beverly, and this CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 25 made in memory of him in his owne countrey, he having a house in this towne, and parish ; and other noblemen and gentry in those dayes in this towne. Orate pro anima Henrici Percy IV. Northumbria, qui per rebellium manus occubuit, fyc" Grey, p. 10. Several antient sepulchral monuments still remain in this church ; and many fine specimens of modern sculpture have of late years been placed in it, especi- ally those in memory of the Ridley, Askew, and other families; but the figure of Religion, on the tomb of the late Rev. Hugh Moises, greatly excels the rest in simplicity of design, and delicacy of execution. The steeple of this church is sixty-four yards high. Its summit is justly considered a very ingenious and admirable specimen of architecture. " It consists of thirteen pinnacles, and two bold stone arches support- ing a large and beautiful lanthorn, on which is a tall and stately spire : the yvhole very much admired."* This work is a superstructure, and, from an inscrip- tion on the arch of the belfry, is supposed to have been added by Robert Rhodes, in the time of Henry VI. It was " much repaired" in 1601; and seve- ral of its pinnacles being blown down by a violent west wind " it was also repaired and restored to its former splendour, in l6.51."*f There is a tradition that during the siege, in 1644, the Scottish general threatened sir John Marley, then mayor, that unless the town was instantly delivered he would demolish the steeple with his cannon. Sir John ordered the chief of the Scottish prisoners to c • Wallij, Northumb, f MS. authority. 26 CHURCHES AND CHAPELS* the top of the tower, and then replied : € If the struc- ture fall, it shall not fall alone: your countrymen shall either preserve it, or be buried in its ruins/ The reply had its desired effect. Knox, the celebrated reformer, preached in this church, between the years 1550 and 1553. Dr. Jackson, whose works were printed in three vols, folio, in 1673, was instituted vicar here, in 1623; and Dr. John Brown, the author of Essays on Shaftesbury's Characteristics, the tragedies of Barbarossa and Athel- stan, and several other ingenious and popular works, was inducted into it in 176 1. The register of baptisms here commences in 1558 ; that of burials and marriages, in 1574. " St. Andrews, the ancientest of all the foure, as appeareth by the old building and fashion of the church."* The arch of the chancel is in the Norman style : the rest of the edifice, heavy Gothic. The parish of St. Andrew is mentioned in theTinmouth chartula- ry, a. d. 1218. The justices itinerant held their courts here, in 1£80; and in 1387 the bishop of Durham granted an indulgence of forty days to such as should contribute to the repairs of this church. There were three chantries in it : one of them dedicated to the Holy Trinity, supposed to have been founded by sir Adam de Athol, of Jesmond, and in which is a tomb bearing this inscription: Hie jacent dominus Adania- rus de Atholl miles & Domina Maria uxor ejus quae obiit quarto decimo die mensis anno dominimille- simo tricentesimo....Animarum propitietur. " In this church is to be seen a pardon of the pope for nine * Grey, p. 1%, CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 27 hundred yeares to come."* The altar-piece, a fine old Italian picture, was presented by Major Anderson. The register commences in 1597 : it has been badly kept. " St. John's, a pretty little church, commended by an arch-prelate of this kingdome ; because it re- sembleth much a crosse."*|- The date and founder of it are unknown. A charter of the 15 Edward I. mentions — venellum quo itur ad ecclesiam Sancti Johannis. Mention occurs of " organes" here in 1570. £ In Bourne's time, there remained in the chancel here the "funnel through which was conveyed on the day of Pentecost, in the times of popery, an artificial dove to represent the descent of the Holy Ghost." In the windows are many curious specimens of painted glass. There were three chantries in it. Its register begins in 1587. John Cunningham, author of i Love in a Mist/ &c. who was born in Dublin, and became a strolling player, was interred in this church-yard, where is a stone with this in- scription: " Here lie the remains of John Cunningham. Of his excellence As a pastoral poet, His works will remain a monument For ages, After this temporary tribute of esteem Is in dust forgotten. He died in Newcastle, Sep. 18, 177S, aged 44." c 2 f Grey p. x%* f Ibid. p. «. \ Bourne, p. 24> £8 CHX3RCHES AND CHAPELS. All Saints' Church is also of obscure founda- tion. It existed in 1286. # "There is few monu- ments or tombes in it. Onely one stately tombe of that worthy benefactor, Roger de Thornton, having a large jet stone, curiously engraven with his armes, and the amies of that noble family of the Lord Lumley, who married a daughter of Thorntons. He died in the reign of Henry VII "+ The brass plate of this monument is still preserved, and has around its bor- der this inscription : X Hie jacet domicilla agnes quo.dam uxor rogeri thornton que obijt in vigelia fancte katrine anno domini m cccc xi. X Hie jacet rogerus thornton m.c.tor novi castrl super tinam qui obiit anno — d.jn. mittesimo eccc xx ix et iij die januarij. This church before the reformation had seven chantries, of which Mr Brand has collected a curious account from the Augmentation Office and other sources. The old building, which was one hundred and sixty-seven feet long, and seventy-seven feet wide, underwent great alteration about the years 1651 and 1655. The chancel, which was wainscoted and stalled with oak, stood upon a large square crypt, the pillar of which was in its centre, and its windows much below the floor of the late church. The old bells were cast out of an equestrian statue of James II., which stood upon Sandhill. In 1783, an act of par- liament was obtained for rebuilding this edifice, which was finished, after a plan, and under the direction of Mr Stephenson, architect, in 1789. It is a very splendid and elegant structure. Its form is circular* * See Bourne, p. 8e>, f Gf€ y? P* ** s OHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 29 On the south it has a fine portico supported by five Ionic pillars. Its spire is lofty : the whole structure built of polished freestone: its pews all of mahogany : and at its entrance is a neat chapel, used at funerals and matins. It cost the parish upwards of 27,0001. There was a chained library here in IQSI* The re- gister began in 1600. St. Ann's Chapel. — " When this chapel was originally built I have met with nothing that gives any account. After the reformation it was neglected and came into decay ; but the town in the year 1682 repaired it, and settled a lecturer there."* The pre- sent neat and spacious structure, was built from a design of the late Mr Newton, at the expence of the corporation, and was consecrated by bishop Trevor, Sept. 2, 1768. The corporation also endowed it, and support a morning lecturer. It has no regis- ters. The Chapel of St. Thomas a Beckett, at the bridge-end, is of obscure origin. It existed in 1248, and Beckett, to whom it is dedicated, was murdered in 1171. It had two chantries in it. By charter of James I. it was incorporated with the hos- pital of St. Mary Magdalen ; and, in 1732, was re paired and fitted up as a chapel of ease to St. Nicho- las. " In 1782 the outside of it was hewn over, and a new steeple built, the old one being taken down to make the passage on to the bridge more spaci- ous."+ It is built upon crypts or arched cellars, which are now used as iron-warehouses. c3 • Bourne, p. 154. f Account of Newcastle ia 1787, p. 15. SO CHAPELS AND MEETXNG-KOUSES. Gosforth Chapels. — These were two chapels of ease to St. Nicholas, one called North Gosforth? the other South Gosforth. The first of them fell in- to disuse about eighty years since. Warburton's MSS. describe North Gosforth as u a small village, in a low ground, with a ruinous chapel." # Except a few grave-stones on the scite of their cemetery, a lit* tie eastward of Gosforth- Lodge, no trace remains of either the chapel or the village. The advowson of the church of South Gosforth was confirmed to Robert [de Insula] lisle by Henry II. " St. Nicho- las is not the mother church" to Gosforth, " but ra- ther the contrary ."f This church has been lately rebuilt on a neat and commodious plan. Ckamlington Chapel, like its mother- church dedicated to St. Nicholas, lies about eight miles north of Newcastle. In it is a marble slab with this inscription: Orate pro anima Thomae Law- son, generosi, qui obiit £ d ° die mensis Julii anno Domini, 1489. Cujus animus propitietur Deus." The Lawsons obtained Cramlington by marriage in the reign of Henry VI., and have held it ever since. Ridleys and Lawsons patrons by turns. CHAPELS and MEETING HOUSES of DISSENTERS. The Roman Catholics, prior to the year 1688, had a meeting house, adjoining the White Hart, in the old Flesh-market. The number of persons of this persuasion, in the parishes of St. Nicholas, St. John's and St. Andrews, in 1705, was forty-seven.J * Brand i. 2>%%> t Bourne, p, %*%. t Brand *• W* CHAPELS AND MEETING-HOUSES. 31 During the rejoicings, on the arrival of the duke of Cumberland in January, 1746, some villains broke into, and plundered a papist chapel in the nun?. After this period they had a chapel in the Close ;* from which they removed to a house at the foot of Westgate-street. They have for some years past had a chapel between Carliol-croft and Pilgrim-street, The Quakers met with great opposition from the clergy and magistrates, under the Commonwealth, at Newcastle ; but with friendly treatment in Gates- head. 4 }- They have for many years had a meeting- house on the east-side of Pilgrim-street, where they have also a burial ground. The Presbyterians of the church of Scot- land have six meeting-houses in this town : namely, in the Castle-Garth, Groat-Market, High-Bridge, (where the reverend John Murray, author of * a His- tory of the American War/ &c. was many years minister) in Silver-street, and at the Garth-heads and Wall-knolLJ - The Seceders from the church of Scotland, call- ed Antiburghers, have a meeting-house in the Close, and a schism from tins sect has, for a few years, occu- pied the old Postern Meeting. The Sally-port meeting-house belongs to the Burghers; and the Glassites assemble in the lane leading downwards from Carpenter's Tower. The Calvinistic Baptists have a chapel near the head of Tuthill-Stairs, where they have a • See Gateshead. f Fox's Journal, p. 281. Brand 340. \ Brand, vol. i. p. 16S, 236, ^zh 3S9» 4°°> 449* 3£ BURYING GROUND. well for the immersion of adults ; and another congre- gation of Baptists assemble in the hall of the Barber- Surgeons. The Unitarian Chapel is in Hanover Square. In its vestry is a library for the use of the members of this body. Their place of assembly, prior to 1728, was between the Close-Gate and Skinner- burn. Several able men have been ministers to this body.* Whitfield's, or lady Huntingdon's follow- ers, have a handsome chapel in Postern-street. The Methodists have three houses in this town. The Weshian sect assemble in the Orphan- House, in Northumberland-street, which was founded by the father of their society ; and in a chapel called Ebenezer on the New-Road : the Kilhamites meet at Bethel, a chapel in Manor-chare. BURYING GROUND. The Ballast Hills, near Ouseburn-bridge, have for a great part of last century been used by the dissenters and poor people of all denominations in Newcastle and its neighbourhood as the place of in- terment for their dead. When this practice origin- ated we have not been able to learn. Grey says it was the u first ballist shoare out of the towne" — €€ where women upon their heads carried ballist" — but neither he nor Bourne mentions any thing about its being used as a place of interment. The ground was enclosed by public subscription, in 1786, in which year there were above four hundred burials here. * Brand i. 4x1* 412* SCHOOLS. 33 The charge for burial is eight-pence to the corpora- tion, and four-pence (at most ten-pence) to the sexton. The burials are all without ceremony, and latterly about six hundred in a year. There is a register for ten years back, but badly kept* SCHOOLS. The Royal Grammar School was found* ed by alderman Thomas Horsley, who was mayor of Newcastle in 1533, and by him endowed with lands in that place, to which the corporation added a stipend of four marks annually. It was conducted in a build- ing on the north-east side of St. Nicholas church-yard. Queen Elizabeth refounded it in 1599? on which oc- casion the establishment was removed into the pre- mises of St. Mary's hospital in Westgate-street ; part of the chapel being converted into a school-room, and the offices into houses for the masters. By the foundation charter it is enacted, that it be called the Free Grammar School of queen Elizabeth ; the mas- ter and scholars to be a body corporate in law, with perpetual succession, to have a common seal, and power to purchase lands to themselves and successors in fee simple, or for term of years, provided they ex- ceed not the yearly value of 401. The mayor, six of the aldermen, and common council are patrons, with power of chusing a master and usher to remain in their places for life, or during the pleasure of the electors. The great tythes of the parish of Bolam belong to it. # Its scholars are eligible to lord Crewe's exhibi- ^©* • Wallis, Northumb. ii. 234. 34 SCHOOLS* tions of twenty pounds a year, in Lincoln College, Oxford. Dr. Hartwell left 101. a year out of the Fishburn estate, near Sedgefield, towards the mainte- nance of one of its scholars in either of the universi- ties ; and Dr. Smith bequeathed the interest of 2001. to Emanuel College, Cambridge, to an exhibitioner from this school. Several eminent men have presided here ; among whom are the following: George Ritchel, a. native of Bohemia, and author of " Contemplationes Meta- physicae ex Natura Rerum et rectae Rationis Lumine deductae, &c. ; — Dissertatio de Cerernoniis Ecclesiae Anglicanae, qua usus, &c. ; and other learned works. He died in 1683, and was buried in Hexham church. Dr. James Jurin was appointed master, in 1710, and resigned in 1715. He was afterwards president of the College of Physicians, and secretary to the Royal Society. While at Newcastle, he published his edi- tion of Varenius' Geography. It was printed at Cambridge, in 1712, and dedicated to Dr. Ben tley. Dawes was elected in 1738, and resigned in 1750. His conduct was at all times eccentric, and in the latter part of his life tinctured with melancholy, and even with insanity. After his resignation, his chief amusement was rowing a small boat on the Tyne, He was buried in Heworth Chapel-yard, near a stone inscribed — " In memory of Richard Dawes, late head master of the grammar school, at Newcastle, who died the 21st of March, 1766, aged 57 years." Be- sides his Miscellanea Critica, he published, with a specimen, proposals for printing, by subscription, the . first book of Paradise Lost in Greek verse, with anno- SCHOOLS. 36 tations. His intimate acquaintance with the Greek language obtained him from Morell, Bowyer, and others, the epithet — EWwmutolto^ Bishop Ridley the martyr, the famous Col. Lilburn, and Dr. Akenside were scholars here; and during the patient, the meritorious, and the learned prece- dency of the late reverend Hugh Moises, lord Col- lingwood, lord Eldon, sir William Scott, and several other eminent persons obtained the rudiments of their education in this seminary. The Royal Jubilee School, instituted in commemoration of his Majesty's entry into his fiftieth year, is a large and elegant structure, on the New- road. It was built in 1810. This most laudable and excellent institution, appropriated entirely to the education of the poor, is conducted on Mr Lancas- ter's plan. It is maintained by voluntary subscription. The corporation have been liberal supporters of it, and the dissenters have shewn great courage, industry, and benevolence in promoting its welfare. The duke of Northumberland is its patron. School of the Trinity House was erect- ed by the fraternity of the Blessed Trinity, in 1712, for the instruction of the children of their brethren in writing, arithmetic, and mathematics. The School- house was rebuilt in 1753. The society pay much attention in choosing a good mathematician to the mastership of this school . # The Chakity School of St. Nicholas was founded by Mrs Eleanor Allan, in 1705, for • Brand, u\ 333* 334. 36 Schools. forty boys, and twenty girls, born in the parishes of St. Nicholas and St. John. The foundress endowed it with an estate at Walls-end, at that time worth 6ll. 19s. 5d. a year; and succeeding benefactors have augmented its revenues with bequests amounting to more than 8501. The School-house is in the Manor- chare, and was built by the corporation, in 1786. # St. John's Charity School was founded in 1705, for forty boys, by Mr John Ord, and en- dowed with the rent of a close, " without Pilgrim- street-gate, called Great Magdalen Close, held of Magdalen Hospital, under the rent of 41. per annum, and now let for £5l."f The corporation provided the School-house. Its revenues are greatly indebted to annual subscriptions. St. Andrew's Charity School, founded for thirty boys, by sir William Blackett, bart. in 1708, had an additional endowment from the son of its founder, for the purpose of clothing the boys. In 179^, a new School-house for this institution was erected in Percy-street, by subscription. The Charity School of All-Saints', in the Manors, for forty-one boys and seventeen girls, was founded in 1709, by a voluntary contribution, in which manner it has ever since been chiefly supported. Other Schools.— Besides the Schools already enumerated, should be mentioned St. Anns Charity School, at the east end of Sandgate ; and the charity- school maintained by the body of Unitarians, who assemble for religious worship at the Meeting-house • Brand, i. 375. f Bourne, p. 29. LITERARY INSTITUTIONS 3J in Hanover Square. There are also Sunday Schools belonging to each of the four churches, and St. Ann's Chapel ; as also to almost every chapel and meeting- house of the Dissenters. LITERARY INSTITUTIONS. St. Nicholas* Library. — There was a small collection of chained books in the library of this church, before the year 1661, when alderman John Cosins bequeathed sixty folios and forty quartos to it. In 1734, sir Walter Blackett built over the ves- try of St. Nicholas, a handsome fabric for the recep- tion of the books of the rev. Dr. Robert Tomlinson, and other benefactors, and endowed the same with a rent charge of 251. a year, to be paid to the library- keeper ; and, in 1745, Dr. Tomiinson, independent of one thousand six hundred books, which he had put in- to this library, bequeathed all the residue of his books to be placed in the said library, and also a rent charge of 51. a year to be a perpetual fund to supply the said library with books. # In the room called the old library, is a M.S. bible, which belonged to the church, of Hexham, and is upwards of six hundred years old. It is beautifully illuminated; but some sacrilegious hand has cut out several of its largest ornaments. The old library, by being seldom opened and never clean- ed, is in a most shameful and wretched state; and Dr. Tomlirison's books have been much injured by the rain beating through the roof, which is falling asunder by neglect. This library is open to the public every morning, holidays excepted, from half-past nine to twelve o'clock. D ♦ Cocjjcil to Dr, Tomlinson's WiU. 38 LITERARY INSTITUTIONS. The Literary and Philosophical So- ciety commenced in 1793. Its leading objects at that time seem to have been the discussion of the se- veral branches of polite literature; inquiry into the situation and properties of the mineral produc- tions of this neighbourhood ; and elucidation of the sciences applicable to commerce. Landscape paint- ing, antiquities, local history, biography, literary intel- ligence, nautical inquiries, &c. were also included within the number of its intended pursuits. Its library was commenced in 1794, and in 1798 its meetings and its property were removed from the rooms the society occupied in St. Nicholas church-yard, to the old assembly rooms, in the Groat-market, where it has since that time been established. It is governed by a president, four vice-presidents, two secretaries, and eight committee men, five of whom are competent to act, and the whole of them annually chosen out of the ordinary members, and intrusted with the manage- ment of the funds. Each ordinary member pays one Guinea a year ; and its annual revenues amounted, in 1811, to upwards of 5251.. The society likewise consists of honorary members, and also of a class of honorary members with the privileges of ordinary members, but this class is restricted to four. Ladies are admitted as reading members. The ge- neral meetings of the society are held on the evenings of the first Tuesday of every month :— they are open to young persons and strangers, and dedicated to the pro- motion of the general views of the institution. Con- versations on religion and politics are forbidden in the society's rooms. The meetings of the committee for LITERARY INSTITUTIONS. 39 the choice of new books, and the general direction of the funds, is on the second Tuesday of every month. Its year commences in March. Ordinary members can admit strangers to a month's use of its very large and valuable library, by a ticket signed by three of the committee. There are collections of plants, miner- als, &c. in its rooms, In 1802, a kindred branch, called the New In- stitution, was engrafted upon the Literary and Philosophical Society, and a part of its funds appro- priated to the maintenance of that well-intentioned establishment, which consists of a permanent lecture- ship on the several branches of natural and experi- mental philosophy, chemistry, &c, and for which a large and very valuable apparatus has been purchased. Ladies and members of the literary society are ad- mitted to these lectures by the annual payment of a guinea, and other persons by paying two guineas an- nually. The Library of the Assembly Rooms was established for the use of the news-room there. It chiefly consists of periodical publications, travels, works on geography, history, and politics; maps, charts, and such like. Circulating Libraries. — Thatof Mr Sands, m the Bigg-market, is by far the oldest and largest in Newcastle. It consists of works in every department of science and literature, and is esteemed one of the best collections of the kind out of London. Mr Marshall's collection in the Old Flesh-market is also large and well chosen; and Mr Oviston has lately established one in the Groat Market. d 2 40 MEDICAL ESTABLISHMENTS. The Infirmary sprang out of the ashes of a small society, that wished to rear up some memorial of the friendship that had existed amongst them, and to whom, on the suggestion of Mr Richard Lambert, an eminent surgeon, and a member of this little body, nothing appeared so useful as an establishment of this land. A subscription was begun for carrying the plan into effect, Feb. 9, 1751. The statutes were con- firmed on the 21st of April, following, when the phy- sicians, surgeons, &c. were chosen, and a temporary house, in G?.How-gate, capable of holding twenty- three beds, was hired. The first stone of the Infirm- ary was laid en the 5th of September; and on the 8th of October, 1752, the edifice was completed. It cost above 30003. Its situation is good — elevated, open, and dry; but the immense clouds of smoke brought from the town, and the glass-houses, by the easterly winds in the spring months, annoy it considerably. Its external architecture is plain, and inclines to elegance ; but its wards were large and crouded, and the whole badly ventilated. These and other inconveniences were re- presented to the public, in 1801, and benefactions, amounting to near 3,000l. were procured to remove them. The necessary additions and improvements were completed, in 1803. The institution is direct- ed by the Bishop of Durham, who is called the Grand Visitor, by six presidents, six vice-presidents, and by governors " who are either annual subscribers of two guineas or upwards/or benefactors of 201. or more, at one time/' Its establishment consists of four physi- MEDICAL ESTABLISHMENTS. 41 cians, four surgeons, a treasurer, chaplain, house-sur- geon, secretary, and matron, besides the servants and nurses. " Sudden accidents or diseases, which require the immediate help of a surgeon, are received at all hours of the day or night, without any recommendation ; patients of all other descriptions cannot be admitted, unless they bring a subscriber's recommendatory let- ter, which must be presented between ten and twelve o'clock, on a Thursday morning, at the Infirmary : the laudable design of which will be most extensively promoted, if such sick persons be recommended who are considered as unable to pay for their own cures," — Infirm. Rep. Its revenues arise partly from funded property, but principally from annual voluntary contributions. Its payments in 1810, were, 3,4331. 14s. 5^d. " From Ap. 1, 1809, to Mch. 31, 1810, it restored to their friends and the community 1,117 persons, wholly freed from their respective complaints ; and from its- commencement to that time, 40,712 cures huve been performed in it. It is matter of satisfactory reflec- tion, that the cures during each of the years, from 1803, inclusive, have been, fortunately, in progressive increase." Infirm. 59 Report. In the governors' room is a very fine full length portrait of sir Walter Blackett, bait, by Reynolds; one of Matthew Ridley Esq. by Webb; one of Dr. Butler, bishop of Durham, and one of Dr. Benson, bishop of Gloucester, all of whom were great bene- factors to this charily, pa 42 MEDICAL ESTABLISHMENTS. The Dispensary was instituted, Oct. 2, 1777, and for several years kept a little below the Queen's Head Inn, in Pilgrim-street. Its establishment at present occupies the hall, built by the Free-Masons, In Low-Friar-street. This charity embraces three important objects, viz : relieving diseases in general, promoting vaccine inoculation, and preserving the lives of persons appa- rently dead from drowning, or other causes. By the annual report, ending Michaelmas, 1810, it appears that 229-1 patients of the first class had been admitted that year, of whom 2165 were cured, 4 relieved, 14 irregular, 35 dead, and 73 remained on the books; and that since the commencement of the charity, 56,285 had been admitted, and 52,572 cured. Vac~ cination was first introduced herein 180i; and 1359 had been inoculated with cow-pox, in 1810, and 9711 from ihe commencement of the method. The third "department was established, in 1789; to this the faculty in Newcastle, and the surgeons at Shields, Howdon-Pans, Winlaton, Swalwell, and Newburn, are medical assistants; but only one instance of re- covery is recorded. The duke of Northumberland is patron, and the rest of the establishment consists of six presidents, four vice-presidents, a treasurer, secretary, five physicians, a surgeon, visiting surgeon, and apothecary. It is maintained by annual subscriptions. Its receipts in 1810, were 5321. 6s. 7 id. " The limits fixed for visiting home patients k e. such as are confined to their own houses, are Shields- road-bridge, and the utmost extent of the town to the MEDICAL ESTABLISHMENTS. 43 west, north, and south. Gateshead is included as a visiting district so long as its inhabitants subscribe thirty guineas annually to the charity. — With respect to out patients, i. e. those who are able to attend at the Dispensary, all the poor inhabitants of Newcastle and Gateshead are admitted, without any restrictions as to limits." Report in 1810. The House of Recovery for Newcastle and Gateshead. AY hen the infirmary was inlarged, Dr. Clark recommended that a part of it might be fitted up as fever-wards ; but the measure, appearing to the greater number of the subscribers unsafe, was o- ver-ruled; and in 1804 a hospital, for the cure and pre- vention of contagious fevers, was opened in the YVar- den's-close, # on the outside of the town's wall, be- hind the Black-friars. It was built by a voluntary sub- scription, which, though unequal to defray the whole expence of the erection, amounted to 14381. 2s. In finishing and furnishing the building, a debt of about 4001. was contracted, which, in 1810, was not wholly liquidated. The receipts of the institution between May 1, 1809 and May 1, 1810, were 1371. 18s. 3|d. * " There is a postern between Newgate and Westgate, whieh goeth into a close, called the Warden-close, where the warden of the priour of Tine-mouth had his house, garden and fish-ponds, &c. sr Grey p. a8. The house of the Black friars was dependent upon Tinmouth. The breast-works, which appear about this place were probably formed during the siege in 1644. There 1 ere fish-ponds here, in 1466. which were supplied through a pipe, the bore of which was of the size of a wheaten straw, from the aqueduct of the monastery. Brand i. 420. The Black-friars was formerly called Bennet-Chessie- friars, i. e. Shod Bennets. "The duke of Suffolk kept his court in their house in the beginning of queen Elizabeth's reign, when he had the command of the northern counties against Scotland." MS, authority. See p. 11. 44 MEDICAL ESTABLISHMENTS The affairs of this hospital are managed by a pa- tron, president, treasurer, secretary, a committee of twenty-four, the medical establishment of the dispen- sary, a matron and inspector. All poor persons la- bouring under contagious fevers, and residing within its limits, are considered fit objects of this institution. Persons, not objects of the charity in a pecuniary view 7 , may also be admitted, by finding their own me- dical attendance, and paying 3s. a day to the hospital. The right of admission is in the governors, (subscribers of one guinea or more a year); but chiefly in the phy- sicians and surgeons. The Lying-in Hospital in "Rosemary-lane, was set on foot in 1760, and licensed, Jan. 12, 1774. Lady Allgood made a bequest to it, of 1001. The establishment consists of a president, four vice presi- dents, chaplain, treasurer, physician, surgeon, matron and midwife, and twelve mid wives to attend on out-pa- tients. Persons to be admitted must bring a certificate of marriage, and be recommended by a subscriber : in sudden cases to be attended at their own houses. The matron to deliver in ordinary cases : the physicians and surgeons to instruct the midwives in obstetrication, and to deliver in difficult cases. Over the charity-box here, is the well-chosen motto : " Because there was no room for her in the inn" The Charity for poor, Lying-in, Married Women, at their own houses, in Newcastle and Gateshead, was instituted ia the winter, a. d. 1760. The midwives of the lying-in hospital attend them in common cases ; and two surgeons and a physician when required. These patients are supplied during the month with MEDICAL ESTABLISHMENTS. 45 proper food and medicines, and also with pecuniary assistance. The Lunatic Asylum for the counties of Northumberland and Durham, was built in 1756, 7, by Mr Newton, architect. It is in the Warden's Close, a retired and quiet situation, suitable to per- sons afflicted with this terrible calamity. It is leased under the corporation for ninety-nine years, at the yearly rent of half a- crown. Dr. Wood has the care of it. When its foundation was digging, an old brass seal inscribed -** Vis et Deus noster* was found. Brand asks — " Can it have been the first seal of the Black Friars ? It certainly belonged to some religious house in Newcastle. Mr Newton gave it to Mr Wardell, then vicar of Cor- bridge." Brand, i. 421. St. Luke's Hospital, now called Belgkove, on the edge of the Town-moor, is appropriated to the same melancholy purpose as the Lunatic Asylum. On St. Luke's day, 1767, it became the property of Dr. Hall; and now belongs to, and is under the management of Dr. Steavenson. The Public Baths were built by Dr. Hall, an eminent physician in Newcastle. They stand a little beyond the VVest-gate, in a grove or garden, the walks of which are tastefully fringed with curious shrubs. Considerable medical skill has been employed here, in the application of the gaseous fluids ; and we imagine we begin to see the comfort and elegance of the Roman age again revived in Britain, in the use of 46 €HARITA£L£ INSTITimOKS. vapour, hot, and tepid baths, the swimming basins, and the cold enclosed baths at this place. At Dr. Hall's death, they were purchased by Dr. Kentish ; and, on his leaving Newcastle, they became the pro- perty of Malin Sorsbie, esquire. CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. Jesus Hospital, called also the Town's Hos- pital, was founded, erected, and endowed by the cor- poration, in 1681. It is three stories high, sixty yards long, has piazzas to the under story, and a fountain before it. It consists of a master, and forty-one bre- thren or sisters, being freemen or widows of freemen, or unmarried sons or daughters of freemen. Its founders, in 1683, purchased a messuage, quay, and garden, in the Close, for 7001.; and an estate at Ed- derly, in the county of Durham, for 16101.; also, in 1675, an estate at Whitle, Northumberland, for 13001. all which estates they settled upon this hospital : but as their rents were found inadequate to their intend- ed purpose, they were sold in 17 16, and the estate of Walker bought in their room. The purchase,, how- ever, having been made contrary to the statute of mortmain, the estate was forfeited to the crown, in which it continued to the year 1724; when, through the influence of Mr Carr, then representative for the town, his majesty's licence and pardon was obtained, and the estate of Walker restored to the corporation, for the purpose of "■ providing a sufficient fund for the maintenance of the poor of the said hospital* for ever." In 1769, the common-council ordered the master's salary to be raised from 61. to 8l. a CHTITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 47 year, and that each brother and sister, instead of 41., should be paid 61. a year : — and, by a resolution of the same body, in guild, Jan. 14, 1811, an order was past, that the sixty poor members of the hospitals, in the Manors, should each, in future, receive 121. a year. Mrs Davison's Hospital, in the manors, was endowed by Anne, widow of Benjamin Davison, in 1725, for six widows of protestant clergymen, merchants and freemen. The foundation of it was made by her surviving trustee, George Grey, esquire, Mch. 2, 1748; who also purchased of the corpora- tion, with Mrs Davison's legacy of 9401., an annuity of 551. payable out of Walker estate. The first edi- fice was built by the corporation in 1725, but that body being appointed patrons of this charity, as also of the hospitals of sir Walter Blackett and Mr Davi- son, a suite of apartments, proper for the three institu- tions, was erected at their common charge in 1754. Blackett Hospital was founded by sir Wal- ter Blackett, bart. in 1754, for six unmarried men, to be poor, decayed burgesses of Newcastle, and by him endowed with 12001. for their maintenance. Mr Davison's Hospital. In 1754 Tho- mas Davison of Ferry-hill, in the county of Durham, esquire, and his two sisters, also gave 12001. to be applied to the support of u six unmarrried women, to be daughters and widows of burgesses." Keelmen's Hospital. — Keelmen,asabody,are first mentioned in 1539. They had a charitable fund in 1697 ; two years after, each of them paid 4d. a 48 CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. tide to it ; and, in 1700, they petitioned the common council for a piece of ground to erect an hospital upon. The lease was taken in the name of the governor, wardens and fraternity of hostmen, for the use and benefit of the keelmen. The building was finished in 1700. It cost above £0001., which was raised by the 4d. a tide. Dr. Moor, bishop of Ely, remarked of this hospital " that he had heard of and seen many hospitals, the works of rich men ; but that it was the first he ever saw or heard of which had been built by the poor." u It is a square building, done in the form of monasteries and colleges, having its low walk around it, in imitation of cloysters. The area in the middle of it, is about eighty-three foot broad, and a- bout ninety-seven and a half foot long."* It has fifty- two chambers in it : one in the south front for general meetings. After many ineffectual attempts to lay this institu- tion under wholesome and practicable regulations, an act of parliament was obtained in 1788, by which its funds should in future be managed. By the bye-laws subjoined to this act, the weekly allowances to sick and superannuated members are as follows : To the disabled, by lameness or sickness, 5s. — to the super- annuated 3s. 3d. — to widows without children, Is. 6d. — to widows having two children, 2s. — to widows having more than two children, £s. 6d. Members unable to work in the keels, to follow any other em- ployment ; but if they earn 4s. or upwards a week, their allowance to be reduced according to the follow- ing table : 'S • Bourne, p. 153, "©• CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 49 If earnings amount to To receive from the fund 4s. a week and under 5s. £s. 6d. a week, os. a week and under 6s. 2s. Od. a week, 6s. a week and under 7s. Is. Od. a week. 7s. a week and under 8s. to receive nothing Bs. or more, to pay 6d. a week to the fund. The late alderman Simpson, of Bradley Hal!, left 1001. to this charity; an act of generosity gratefully acknowledged by an inscription on the south front of the hospital. The General Hospital, or Workhouse for the reception of the poor of the several parishes of the town, had, as an inscription on it sets forth, " an addition built to it at the expence of the parish of All-Saints, with the assistance of the corporation, for the larger reception of the poor of the said parish in 1785." It formed one of the quadrangles of the Augustine Convent, of which two arches over the door ways in the cellar, and many other very evident traces of the walls, are still to be seen. Almshouses. — There was an almshouse near Stockbridge in 1534, but when and for what particu- lar purpose it was founded, are alike unknown.* Christopher Brigham, sheriff of the town in 1495, and mayor in 1504, 5, founded Brigham s Alms* houses, which stood at the angle formed by Pilgrim- street and High-Friar-Chai e. It consisted of several dwellings, and was inhabited, in 1576, by poor reli- gious women. Leland mentions it, and it is marked upon William Matthews's plan of Newcastle, in Speed's map of Northumberland.^ Elizabeth Nyk- E • Brand, I 399, f Ibid, u 34** 50 CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. son, widow, founded an almshouse about the begin- ning of the sixteenth century, for the use of the poor of the parish of All-Saints. Four women, with-ithe allowance of 20s. a year, were to live in it. It stood opposite to the west stairs of All-Saints church . # In Bourne's time the poor women in it had eight chaldrons of coals and twelve shillings a year, but it was then " going fast to ruins." In Bourne's plan of the town, the Spit tal- Almshouse stands in Westgate-street, on the west-side of the gate leading to the grammar school. " It was pulled down not many years ago, and a handsome house erected on its scite/'f "The Society of Clergymen's Sons," as it was called, " in the Town and County of New- castle upon Tyne," commenced, Ap. 7, 1709. Its chief promoters and first stewards were Mr Deodatus Therjkeld, and Mr Nathaniel Clayton. Their first subscription amounted only to 5l. On Sep. 14, of the same year, a similar society was made for the two deaneries of Alnwick and Bamborough; and in ,1725, the two institutions were united. After this, 2 gradually included the whole of the diocese of Durham, with Hexhamshire. The yearly subscrip- tion, in 1731, was £13l. 18s. 6d.; and in 1766, £981. 16s. 7d. In 1773, it was agreed that the an- niversary meetings, which are always on the first Thursday in September, should in future be alternate- ly, at Durham and Newcastle, a rule ever since ad- hered to. Margaret Dorgworth, of Old Elvet, Dur- ham, in 1775, bequeathed 10001. to tlis charity.;}: * Brand, i, 345. Bourne, p. 108. f Brand, i. 105. f Brand,i. 31,6. CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS, 51 Its rules were revised in 1808. The bishop of the diocese is president, who, with the vice-presidents and subscribers of one or two guineas a year, form a court for the management of the funds. The ten stewards, (five laymen and five clergymen) regulate the public meetings. The lay steward for Newcastle is treasur- er. The receipts, in 1810, were, 12811. Os. Id. of which 1701. arises from the interest of 34001. vested in the corporation of Newcastle : — the disbursements in the same year, were 10491* 7s. — 4he balance in hand, in 1809, 1061. 14s. lOd. — and, in 1810, 2311. J 3s. Id. Annual Report for V8l0, p. 30. A New Institution was ingrafted on this society, Sep. 6, 1 S 10. The bishop of Durham founded it with 10001. The chief source of its revenues is, however, expected to be found in the opulent clergy, many of whom have agreed to assist it with 12s. per 1001. on their ecclesiastical income. Lay support is also calculated upon. Benefactions of ten years purchase are accepted instead of annual subscriptions. The fund to be invested in government securities in the name of the bishop and the two archdeacons of the diocese, as trustees, and to accumulate until it amount to a sum equal to supply the charges of the society. A committee of nineteen, five of whom are a quorum, have been appointed to manage the revenues. Unmarried clergymen, or widowers with children, not having incomes exceeding 2001. a year, are to be assisted out of this fund, with 5s. in the pound of their annual premium, in insuring a sum not more than 5001. upon their lives, provided they continue in the diocese, and do not dispose of their policy, which 52 CHAEITABLB INSTITUTIONS. is to be kept in the office of the committee, so long as the person insured continues in the diocese. The insurance to be made in the Equitable Insurance office, New-bridge-street, Black-Fiiars, London, where the assured are mutual assurers one of another. The funds of the Old and New Establishments to be kept thoroughly independent of each other. On Feb. 21, 1811, the benefactions amounted to 117^1.; and the annual subscriptions to 3601. 17s. # The Fund foe the Widows of Protest- ant Dissenting Ministers of every persua- sion was originally intended to have consisted of forty members, in the counties of Northumberland, Cum- berland, Westmoreland, and the towns of Newcastle upon Tyne, and Berwick upon Tweed. There are three classes of members : in the first, the yearly pay- ment is — for the minister, 21. and his congregation, 21. —in the second, 35. — and in the third, 21. They have about twenty widows : those of the first class receive, by half-yearly payments, 20l. a year; the second, 151.; the third, 121. They lodged 2971. at interest with th$ corporation of Berwick upon Tweed, in 1768; in 1783, their stock amounted to 31161. 2s. 5d.;+ and at present is above 50001. Their meetings were formerly held at Newcastle ; at present, at Newcastle, Morpeth, and Alnwick, alternately. They received from the Regium Donum, for many years, 401. an- nually, which of late has been withheld from them, and the want of it has caused material alterations in * Advert, in the Newc. Courant, Sep. %%< 1810, and other papers of the committee. f Brand, i. p. $z6* CriAftlTABlifi iNSTITtJTIO^f^ 63 their statutes. The late Dr. Henry of Berwick, af- terwards of Edinburgh, drew up and digested the statutes, which at present govern this fund. The Association of Protestant School- masters residing in the counties of Northumber- land, Cumberland, Westmoreland, Durham, and the towns of Newcastle upon Tyne, and Berwick upon Tweed, was formed inihe year 1774. To answer the convenience of different members, it is divided into four classes of subscribers, namely, those of 3s. 6d. — of 5s. 3d. — of 7s. — and of 10s. 6d. a quarter; the first of which pays ll. — the second, ll. 10s. — the third, 21. — and the third, Si. entrance. The foI«< lowing rates per quarter have been allowed to the se- veral objects of the benefit of this .society, since the year 1801, viz., # to infirm members of the ist Class a 5 6 To Widows i i io| To Orphans o n 44 ad 3 % 3 — — 1 12 of o 17 of 3d 4 ix o a 3 9 129 4th 6 16 6 * 3 5 7| 1 I4 r | Subscribers must be four years members before they can derive any benefit to themselves or their families. 1 he yearly meeting is holden at 1 1 o'clock on Tues- day in Whitsun-week. The institution is under the patronage of the duke of Northumberland; the rev. William Turner, of Newcastle, is president ; the other officers are a vice-president, a treasurer, and a secre- tary. Its fund, in 1810, amounted to 14501., iu which year it was assisted with 69I. 13s. 6d. in an- nual subscriptions; with 61. 13s. 6d. in benefactions^ e 3 ♦ Scheme of the Schoolm, Assoc, June 4, x$x x» 54 CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. and its whole receipts were, 3291. 17s. 1 J d., and its disbursements, 1821. Is. 3d. The number of mem- bers forty-two. In Benefit Societies in Newcastle, sicker disabled members are usually allowed from six to seven shillings a week, for a stated period. When, by age, or a lingering disorder, they become pensioners for life, their allowance is reduced to 2s. or 2s. 6d. a week. Forty or 50s. are allowed for funeral expences, and widows have each a legacy of from 61. to 101. There are upwards of thirty of these societies in this town, which, altogether, comprise not less than five thousand members. The Bible Society of Newcastle upon Tyne was instituted in 1809. The bishop of Durham i& its patron, and president. The members of Parlia- ment for the town, and the two archdeacons of the diocese of Durham, its vice-presidents. It u adopts" in a great measure, " the regulations of the British and Foreign Bible Society, in London, of which, to encourage a wider circulation of the Holy Scriptures* is the sole object" Subscribers of ll. Is. a year, are accounted members of this society; and of 51. 5s. a year, governors of it. Its affairs are conducted by twelve laymen, assisted by two secretaries; but gover- nors, and every clergyman and dissenting minister can vote at all meetings of the committee. The annual meetings are Thursday in Easter week. The Friendless Poor Society was formed in 1797, and has its meetings at the Baptist Chapel, Tuthill-stairs. It is chiefly patronized by dissenting ministers, and is supported by voluntary subscriptions, CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 55 and a quarterly sermon preached at different meeting houses. Its good intentions are chiefly extended to the relief of persons who cannot be bentfited by the poor laws of England, and to promote Christianity among the poor. "The Religious Tract Society of this town and its vicinity" was instituted in July, 18 1Q. Subscribers of 4s. and upwards, a year, to be mem- bers. It distributes the tracts of the London Tract Society. Annual meeting in April, at the vestry of *Tuthill-stairs Chapel. The Benevolent Society for visiting and relieving the sick and distressed poor, since its institu- tion, in 1807, has distributed about 3801. whereby upwards of seven hundred distressed families and ii> dividuals have been relieved. The funds are under the direction of a committee, who meet weekly to por- tion out the necessary relief. This they commit to other officers denominated visitors ; who carry it to the distressed persons, and converse and pray with- them, The receipts in 1810, were, 1211. 10s. 5|d. There have also been established in this town, " A * Tut-hilt is of disputed derivation. Toat-dead, in Dutch, means a burial-ground. There is a place of the same name in London: " Into Tuttle-fields they went where they had not changed past half a dussen thursts, &c." Jests, &c. printed ia 1607, p. 41. Toot hille, in sir John Maundevile's voyage, seems to mean a hill of observation — " In the myd place of on of his gardyns is a lyttle mountagne where there is a little me- dewe and in that medewe is a lityle toothille with toures and pynacles — and in that littyl foothill wolle he sitten oftentym for to taken the ayr and to disportyn hym," p. 378. — Bourne de- rives tut from tooting or winding with a horn, as if Tuthill had been a place where a horn or trumpet had formerly been sounded at the approach of an snemy. 56 MIDGES. Society for the Discouragement and Suppression of Vice;" and, " A Society in aid of the London So- ciety for promoting Christianity among the Jews." BRIDGES. The Tyne Bridge.— -We have before hinted that Newcastle bridge was first built by Hadrian* Several of the piers of the old bridge were so strong- ly cemented that the use of gunpowder was resorted to in taking them down. The Roman military way leading by Chester-le-Street, from Binchester, to Gateshead, traced by Horsley and Dr. Hunterf- and laid down on the antient map prefixed to the itinerary of Richard of Cirencester, bears testimony to the an- tiquity of this structure. The piers of it, says Pen- nant, " seem originally to have been formed without springs to the arches. This was a manner used by the Romans ; witness the bridge built over the Da- nube by Trajan at Severin."J This mode of build- ing was well calculated for expedition : after projec- tions of stone had been made over the piers, as far as was consistent with strength, the remaining space was traversed with beams of timber and paved upon.$ In one of these piers a piece of parchment was found, with old characters upon it, very fresh ; but, on being exposed to the air, they disappeared and the parch- ment mouldered away. A bridge existed here in the time of Henry II. It appears to have been of wood in 1248, as Matthew * See p. a. f Brit. Rom. p. 104. I Northern Tour, vol. iii. § See coin of Hadrian found in one of these piers, Brand vol, ii. 385. BRIDGES. 57 Paris affirms that the greater part of Newcastle upon Tyne, cum ponie, igne quasi furiosa consumpta est* in that year ; and soon after that time we find land held by the payment of one plank annually to Tyne Bridge.*!* It was swept away by a great flood in 1339? which occasioned 120 persons to be drowned. In Grey's time, however, it was again covered with houses, and shops, and three towers ; u one tower in the south side, the second in the middle, and the third in Newcastle side, lately built upon an arch of the bridge, used for a magazine for the towne ; and an old chapell. There is a blew stone upon the middle of the bridge, which is the bounds of Newcastle, southward, from Gateshead. 'J In 1770, bishop Trevor repaired with stone one of the south arches, which had antiently been a draw bridge, and was at that time made of large oak-beams covered with, planks and paved upon. The arches of this bridge were some of them Gothic, and others scheme arches; they had no regular decrease from the middle to the ends ;§ and the passage over them was narrow and crouded with houses. On Saturday Sept. 17, 177-1, a deluge of rain fell in the western mountains. The Tyne suddenly over- flowed its banks, and marked its progress with terrible devastation. It began to rise at Newcastle about eleven o'clock in the night, and at seven in the morn- ing was at its height. At three o'clock the arches of the bridge were filled up, and about four, three of them, on the Gateshead side, gave way, and seven * Watt's oil. p, 753. f Brand i. 40. I Grey p. 9, § Hutton's Plan of Newcastle. 58 BRIDGES. persons were drowned. Above the bridge the river was seven feet four inches above the usual height of spring-tides; but at Shields, though much damage was done to the shipping there, the sea being kept at a low level by the neap-tides, this flood did not ex- ceed the common height of spring-tides. At this time three ships were stranded on Newcastle Quay; and a vessel took up, at sea, near Tinmouth, " a wooden cradle with a child in it, which was alive and well." The new bridge is three hundred feet long, has nine arches, and cost upwards of 30,0001. The ar- chitects consulted in building it were Messrs Smeaton, Wooler, and Mylne, the first of whom built the Ed« dystone light-house, and the last the bridge at Black- friars, London. It was finished in 1781. But as it was unfortunately built too narrow, its width has since that time been extended to twenty-four feet, by an ingenious contrivance of Mr Stephenson, ar- chitect. He constructed his additional width to the arches on each side, upon the buttresses of the piers, and cramped them to the former work by strong bars of iron, reaching from side to side. It is at present a structure of great strength, convenience, and beauty. The other Bridges " within the towne" were " the upper and neather Deane bridge ; under the last bridge came boats up from the river, and the Picts waU came over that bridge and so along in- to Pandon." # Nether Dene or Low-bridge had a t( very high and antient arch. I am told the rings are to be seen that boats were fastened to, which * Grey, p. 9« PCfBLIC BUILDINGS. 59 brought up the merchants goods ."* Near the place where this bridge stood is Painter-Heugh i. e. the bank where the cables were tied. " The Stock Bridge in Pampedon, where is thought to be the antient market for fish ; where boats came up from the river ."j* PUBLIC BUILDINGS. Exchange. — In Leland's time u a square haul place for the towne"J stood upon Sandhill : it was built by Roger Thorn ton. || The present Ex- change, and the suite of courts and offices attached to it, were finished in 1658. Robert Trollop of York, archi- tect, covenanted with the corporation to build it for 20001. The articles of agreement are in the archives of the Bourne, however, was inform- fili|S|JFf ed that it cost above 10,0001., of which alderman Weymouth gave by will 12001, and the cor- poration contributed the rest. " This building, as to its form and model, is of great beauty, and withal very sumptuous :"§ it has undergone many external alterations since its erection, especially in having its north front, in 1794, and its south front, in 1809, new cased with freestone, and its roof covered with blue slate. • Bourne, p. 8o, 88. f Grey, p. 9. \ ltin. vol. iii. Brand, ii. 29. (| Bourne, p. 125. § Ibid. Before the alterations made in the roof of this building, there was a steeple upon it, among the ?pikes of the weathercock of which, a pair of crows, in 1783, and for several years after, built their nest and reared their young. 60 PUBLIC BUILDINGS. The lower story of this edifice is occupied by the offices of the town clerk, the Exchange coffee-room and the piazzas of the exchange. At the foot of the staircase is a bronze statue of Charles II. in a Roman habit. # On the second floor are the town court or guild-hall, the mayor's chamber, the merchants' court, the revenue office, and the archives of the town. The assizes, quarter-sessions, and other courts of the town and county of Newcastle upon Tyne, are held in the guild-hall, " whose lofty cieling is adorn- ed with various painting, and its floor laid with check- ered marble."f At the west end, over the benches of the magistrates, are full length pictures of Charles II. and James II., the latter of which was ordered a to be taken by some able artist" at the town's ex- pence, in 1686. Both these pictures in a riot, in 1740, were torn by a mob, but the faces escaping without damage, the drapery was restored in 1753. At the other end of this hall, is a portrait of George III. painted by Ramsay, in 1779, and presented to the * In the common-council books, under March 16, 1685, is this order : " a figure of his majesty" (James II.) " in a Roman habit, on a capering horse, in copper, as big as his majesty king Charles I. at Charing- Crosse, on a pedestal of black and ^white marble— to be set up for 8ool. sterling." This work was executed by Mr William Larson, and sir Christopher. Wren certified Aug. 8, 1688, that the artist " had sufficiently performed his work in casting the said statue." Brand i. 31. " It stood on the side of the bull-ring, next the court-stairs. The horse stood upon its hind feet, raised upon a pedestal of white marbhy which was surrounded with iron-pales. It cost the town 1700I. and was confessed the most beautiful and cu- rious of its kind in the kingdom." Bourne, p. 126. At the revolution " a few soldiers, drunk with loyalty as with liquor, assisted with the busy hot-headed Genius of Sandgate, pulled it down and threw it into the river." Ibid. See before, at p. %%, f Bourne, p. i%$, PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 6l town by sir M. W. Ridley, bart. From the guildhall is the entrance into the spacious court-room of the Merchant Adventurers, in which marriage feasts were antiently wont to be held.* Its chimney-piece is very large, and ornamented with curious historical carvings of scripture subjects. The common-council is held,, and the daily business of the magistracy transacted in the mayor's-chamber, in which is to be seen " an engine called the branks," which to this day is sometimes applied to scolds, who presume to exercise their talent in examinations before the magistrates.^ Prisons. — Before Newcastle was made a county of itself, its prisoners were probably confined in the castle. Newgate, " now 7 a prison for debtors and felons," J " is not only the strongest, but also the F * See p. si. f " John Willis, of Ipswich, upon his oath, said, that he, this deponent, was in Newcastle, six months ago, and that he saw one Anne Biddlestone, drove through the streets by an officer of the corporation, holding a rope in his hand, the other end fastened to an engine, called the branks, which was mubled, over the head and face, with a great gap" (read gag) " or tongue of iron, forced into her mouth, which forced the blood, out, and that this is the punishment which tae magistrates dp inflict upon chiding or scolding women," " He, this deponent, further affirms, that he hath seen men drove up and down the streets, with a great tub or barrel, opened in the sides, with a hole in one end, to put through their heads, and so cover their shoulders and bodies, down to the small of their legs, and then close the same, called the new- fashioned cloak, and so make them march to the view of all beholders ; and this is their punishments for drunkards or the like." Gardiner's England's Griev. Discov. p 117. \ Grey, p. 8. " This Newgat, so called because k: John builded y .. gate, as Newcastle is called fro Win. Conquer- ours who built this cattle. Their is an outward gat y\ north builded by Ed: 3 or successors as appe by the arme* w\ h he atcheived in his conquest the many flow- er de Luices in the frontispiece of the ,„..„.. and the B. of Dur* ham arms and towne armes." MS, 62 PUBLIC BUILDINGS. most antient of all the other gates. It is of the same masonry and way of building with that part of the wall which leads to Westgate westward, as far as Ever Tower, which is visibly the oldest part of the wall. The new buildings on each side of it were built, the one, anno 1/02, the other, anno 1706." # u The town and county goal. A clean prison: proper bedding for debtors and felons. I never found any sick prison- ers. Gaol delivery once a year. 1787, Aug. 18, debtors 14, felons, &c. 10."f Bridewell. — " About the middle of the bridge is a large old tower, which they call the tower of the bridge, where lend and disorderly persons are kept 'till they are examined by the mayor, and brought to due punishment, except the crime be of a very gross nature, and then they are removed to Newgate, and there continue till the assizes.J After the flood, in 1771, the Close-gate was the town's Bridewell. The House of Correction was built on a part of the Manors, called the Artillery Ground, used by the townsmen for pike and gun exercise.§ " Proper bedding and firing are allowed. The prisoners were spinning. Aug. 19, 1787, prisoners 6J]\ A peni- tentiary house for the solitary confinement of prison- ers has been added to the House of Correction. The Mansion-house in the Close, opposite Tuthilstairs, was rebuilt in 169 1. Besides the furni- ture, it cost 60001. " It is a building grand and stately ; * Bourne, p. 15. See before at p. 9. f Howard on Lazarettos, p. 198. J Bourne, p. 13a. § Bourne, p. 136. U Howard on Lazarettos, p. 198, PUBLIC BUILDINGS- 63 and, considering the place it stands in, is very ornamen- tal."J The walls of its saloon are hung with buckets fire-caps, fire-arms, halberts, and curious fragments of antient armour. The interiour is sumptuously fur- nished. Among other allowances, the mayor has a state coach, a barge, coals for the Mansion-house, and 13001. a year, towards expences in house-keep- ing. He keeps up great hospitality during the whole of his mayoralty. The judges of assize are lodged and entertained here during their sessions, at which, if no criminal be capitally convicted, the mayor pre- sents each of them, with a pair of white gloves. Trinity House. — The guild or fraternity of the blessed Tnnity, # purchased the scite of their pre- sent house, in 1492, to be held by the payment of a red f 2 $ Bourne, p. 127. • " This house dedicated to the Holy Trinity, was a chan- tery, and dissolved long before the dissolucions of y e Abbysin Hen: 8 dayes as appeareth by many records, given to the ma- rinours of Newc. by Ed. 3. for setting ships out ag\ the town of Dundee in Scotland, who burnt it and tame home with rich bootys, or for some other service at sea performed agt pirates who infested the seas." MS. The history of this body, both as a religious and naval society, has a very dim light upon it till about the year 153c, when as appears by the following en- tries in their books, they had some privileges granted them t " for my lorde Admyrall seyll 46s. 8d. — for sygnet and prevye seyll 4I. 6s. 8d — to kinges grayce for the great seayll 81. 2s." Thty had charters granted them by Henry VIII.,,queen Eliza- beth, James I., Charles II., and James II. The charter of Hen- ry VIII. represents them as incorporated for the encourage- ment of the art of navigation, and with licence to build and embattle two towers, one at the mouth of the haven of Tyne, the other on the adjoining hill, in which Hghts were to be kept every night, and 4d. to be paid to them by every foreign ship, and 2d. by every English ship that entered the port. The other charters, though they altered the private regulations of the society concerning the choice of a master, the number of wardens, &c, and enlarged their marine jurisdiction, in no de- gree infringed upon the main intentions of the first. 64 PUBLIC BUILDINGS. rose annually at midsummer, forever. Before that time, it wo s called Dalton's place. In 1505, they ordered that a hall, chapel, and lodgings for their poor brethren should be erected at their common expence. The present great hall of this house was built in 1721, and cost 669L 7s. 6d. The chapel was fitted up and beautified in 1634, and the bishop of Durham grant- ed a warrant, in 1636, for sermons to be preached in it, by the vicars of Newcastle for the time being, for ever. The widows apartments cost 1 151. 6s. 7|d. in 1724, The buildings of this institution have much the same appearance at present, as they had in Bourne's time, who calls it " a very pretty building, consisting of a handsome square, very monastick in its aspect, having its apartments or lodgings for the inhabitants, a very neat chapel, and a magnificent hall/' p. 144. The twelve widows, in 1785, were allowed each 12s. a month, a gown and petticoat every two years, coals, and medical advice. Several of their poor brethren have also allowances from their funds, which, com- numibus annis, amounts to about 8001. a year. # Custom House. — In 1281, the ■ Cockettum' or Custom-house of this town charged a duty of 6s. Sd. upon three hundred wooled skins, the same sum upon a sack of wool, and 13s. 4d. upon a last of leather.^ Robert Rhodes was appointed to the office of (' countroulier des custumes & subsidies le roi en le port de Novell Castell ste Tyne," in 1440. J In queen Elizabeth's reign " the customer here had a fee of 161. 13s. 4d. and a reward of 261. 13s. 4d. a * Brand, ii, p< 321— 336. f Madox Hist, of the Exch. p, 634. $ Bourne, p. % 13. PUBlIC BUILDINGS. 6S year: — the controler ; fee 4l., reward 101.: — waigh- ters four; reward among them 4l." # The old cus^ tom-house was at the west end of the Quayside ; but, on account of its inconvenience, the establishment, in 1766, was removed to a spacious suite of apartments, built in the preceding year for its reception near the middle of the Quay. The Post- office has been in Mosely-street since 1/89. In 1583 u the packet maie be carried in somer between London and Barwicke in forty- two houres, and in winter in sixty ff and in 1659, it was enacted that u a letter or pacquet post shall come once a week to the town of Penrith, in Cum- berland by the way of Newcastle and Carlisle. "\\ The mail-coach arrives from the south about twelve o'clock in the day, and shortly after proceeds north to Berwick and Edinburgh, and west to Hex- ham and Carlisle. From the north, it comes in about nine in the morning, and goes south at ten : and from Carlisle it commonly reaches this place about ten in the night. Letters to be put into the office an hour before the departure of the mail. The Assembly Rooms were built from a de- sign of Mr Win. Newton, architect, in 1776, and cost in building, furniture, and other expences, 67001. 1 iiis is said to be the most elegant and commodious edifice ot the kind in the kingdom, except the house of Assembly in Bath. The great room is ninety-four feet long, thirty-six feet broad, and thirty feet high. f 3 * Peck's Deisderata Curiosa. vol. 1. lib. ii. p. 4. anno, 1752. f ' k MS. in Cott. Jib. fol. 467. Vespas. c. xiv. p. 113. Pint. 4, B." Brand, ii. 447. y 1% Charles ii. cap. 35, §. x iv, Keble's Statute*, p. u6j. 66 ANTIENT PRIVATE BUILDINGS* The glass chandaliers are very large and brilliant. In the tea-room is a much admired picture of sir John Falstaff, Mrs Ford, &c. by Downman. The room for private assemblies is used as the tea-room at the guild and assize balls. The saloon is spacious and often used at public dinners. In the lower story are two halls, supper-room, coffee-room, # kitchens, &c. There was an act of parliament, 14 Geo. III. to en- able Dr. Fawcet, vicar of Newcastle, to grant a lease of part of his garden for nine hundred and ninety-nine years, and at a rent of £01. a year, for the purpose of erecting this edifice upon.-f- The old Play-House was built in 1748, up- on a part of the walls of St. Bartholomew's church. The Theatre Royal originated at the time that Mosely and Dene-Streets were built, and was opened, by authority of an act of parliament, 21st Jan. 1788, It was built by Mr David Stephenson, architect. Its interior is considered handsome and commodious. ANTIENT PRIVATE BUILDINGS. Amidst the broils and insecurity of the feudal ages, many of the Northumbrian barons found it necessary to have houses within the strong walls of Newcas- tle. Few vestiges, however, remain at present to point out either their situation or their grandeur. The Eakl of Northumbekland's house was in the Close. Henry, earl of Northumberland, Ap. 2, 1482 ; demised this house to his servant George * See before at p. 39. f The old Assembly Rooms are in the Groat*market, and at present occupied by the Literary and Philosophical Society. ANTIENT PRIVATE BUILDINGS. 6? Byrd, under the yearly rent of 13s. 4d., and by the name of the Earl's Inn. # It was that, says Bourne, which has at its entrance a great gate, and a large round ball of stone; and, in the lower part of it, to- wards the river, shews manifest tokens of antiquity. Boljbec Hall, or, as it was called after Ralph Nevil w r as created an earl, Westmoreland Piace, is in "Westgate-Street, nearly opposite Colhngwood-Street. It had only one tenement between it and St. Mary's Hospital.f Though the building upon its scite has an antient appearance, nothing of the original structure remains, except a remarkable wall about eight feet broad, which passes the garden, and has been convert- ed into a terrace : under it is a vaulted passage made of very old bricks, and leading to Nevil tower in the town wall. Lord Scrope had a house in Pilgrim-street; where was also in antient times the Pilgrim's lnn y where the devotees to the shrine of St. Mary, at Jes- mond, are said to have lodged. " It is on the west side of the street, and exactly one hundred and six- teen yards, one foot, from the southmost corner of Upper-dean-bridge. 5 ' % " In the middle of the Side is an antient stone house, an appendix to the Castle, which, in former times belonged to Lord Lumleys, before the Cas- tle was built, or, at least, coetany with the Castle/' The interleaved copy of Grey, has u an appendix to * Brand, 1. 54. f Tenementum — quod 9ituatum est inter mansum hospitalis sancte Marie in le Westgate ex parte una et magnum mansum domini Johannis de Nevill ex altera. From a deed, dated io" t °* \ Bourne, p. 85. 68 ANTlENt FBIVATE BUILDINGS. the Castle" blotted out, and " in y e , head of ye side" inserted at the end of the paragraph. The Scotch Inn, in Newgate-street, directly opposite the Turk 5 s head, " has formerly been a piece of stately workmanship/'* Grey says it " is an an- tient house, with a large gate, called the Scotch Inn, where the kings, and nobility, and lards of Scots lodg- ed in time of truce or league with England."*}* The Vicarage, near St. John's church in West- gate-street, is " situated/' says Bourne, " in the mid- dle cf fields and gardens. Who it was that built it I have not been able to learn. Dr. Ellison repaired and enlarged it in 1694. There is a hall belonging to this house, built in a very grand and stately manner, according to the hospitality of the times it was built in. In particular, it was the place where the vicars of Newcastle were wont to entertain the infenour officers of the churches, the clarks, sextons, &c. at the season of christmas."J There is a pretty certain account of the Roman wall's being discovered in the vicaridge gardens."|[ This house was plundered by the Scots in l644.§ Anderson Place. — This house was built in 1580, by Robert Anderson, merchant, out of the offices, and nearly upon the scite of the Franciscan priory. Sir Francis Anderson, knt., in 16/5, con- veyed it to sir W. Blackett, of Matfen, bart., who added the two wings to it ; an increase of size at the expeoce of uniformity. It came into the possession of sir Walter Blackett, bai t. by his marriage with sir * Ibid p. 5i» f Choro, p. 19. I Eourne, p. %%* jj HorsJey's Brit » Rom. p. 13% §JBrand ? i, i-Oj, ANTIENT PRIVATE BUILDINGS. 69 William's grand daughter ; and in 1782 was sold to Mr George Anderson, whose son, major Anderson, by reason of its having been at two distant periods in the possession of two different families of the same name, has styled it * Anderson Place.' Grey calls it " a princely house ;" and " indeed," says Bourne " it is no less than very stately and magnificent; being sup- posed the most so of any house in the whole king- dom, within a walled town. It is surrounded with a vast quantity of ground ; that part of it which faces the street, is thrown into walks and grass plats, beau- tified with images, and beset with trees, which afford a very pleasing shade : The other part of the grouud, on the west side of it, is all a garden, exceedingly neat and curious, adorned with many and the most beautiful statues, and several other curiosities. " # The statues have been removed, but the rest of the description is still in a great measure applicable to the place. In the garden here a subterraneous passage, pointing towards the Manors, was a few years since discovered, and coins of Edward III., and Henry IV. taken out of it. The parents of Durant, the colleague of Cuthbert Sydenham,^ in the lectureship of St, Nicholas, were buried in the garden here, as appears from a marble tomb-stone remaining in the stable yard. But this house is the most remarkable for its being the head quarters of general Levin, during the cap- tivity of king Charles in Newcastle. That monarch is said to have entered the town, guarded by three • Page 85. f See Wood's Athene, vol. ii. p. 170. 70 ANTIENT PRIVATE BUILDINGS. hundred Scottish horsemen, those nearest him bare- headed. He passed through a lane of pikes and muskets from Gateshead to the general's quarters* He was caressed with bone fires, peals of ordnance, and other marks of rejoicing; and, according to his own confession, no where treated with more honour than here. He had liberty to take his train and play at goff, on the outside of the walls, in Shield-field ; till a design for his escape was discovered, which oc- casioned strict orders to be sent down respecting his person.* There is a traditional account, that he at- tempted his escape through a subterraneous passage from a cellar in this house ; but was caught in his at- tempt to force the iron door at its outlet.f " A little after the king's coming to Newcastle, a Scotch mini- ster preached boldly before him, and when the sermon was done, called for the 52d psalm, which begins : " Why dost thou, tyrant, boast thyself Thy wicked works to praise ? " Whereupon his majesty stood up and called for the 56th psalm, which begins * Have mercy, Lord, on me I pray, For men would me devour." The people waved the minister's psalm, and sung that which the people called for."J " Having an antipa- thy against tobacco, he was much disturbed by their bold and continual smoaking in his presence — a mili- tary presage of the same heathenish barbarity at going to the block at White-hall/'^ When the news reach* * Bourne* p. %$$• Brand, vol. ii. p, 471. f See Desiderata Curiosa, vol. ii. lib. ix, p. 31. J Whitelock's Memoirs, pi 334. § Bourne, p. $3$* OHOSSES AND MARKETS. 71 ed him of the ill success of his arms in Scotland, he took no notice of it, but continued in a game of chess, and was chearful as before.* CROSSES AND MARKETS. "The White Ceo sse was in times of proces- sion a marke to know the borders of the town from the friery in that parish ."f Near it in the middle of the street were a row of old houses, called by Grey " the Hucksters Booths :"J they were pulled down as nuisances several years since. " There is a. tradition still among the inhabitants of this part of the town, that in old times there were many markets between Newgate and White Cross/'^ The ' horse* market- gate' occurs in 1281, and the ' nolt market' in 1662. || From the early existence of markets here, Grey and Bourne conclude that this is the oldest part of the town. The cross was rebuilt in 1687 ; and again by Mr Stephenson in 1783 ; but has since been re- moved to the north side of the new Butcher-Market. The Old Flesh Market. — After king John, in 123 5, granted the merchant adventurers their char- ter, " this town flourished in trade; builded many faire houses in the Flesh-market (then cailed Cloth- market). The merchants had their shops and ware- houses there, in the back part of their houses. In that street the mayors, aldermen, and richest men of the town lived. In after-times the merchants remov- ed lower down towards the river to the street called the Side and the Sandhill.' ^f * Burnet's House of Hamilton, p 305. f MS. \ P. 6. See them marked also on Bourne's plan of the town. § Bourne, p. 39, 5 Brand, i. 178. % Grey, p. 16. 72 CROSSES AND MARKETS. " On the east side of it (Middle-street) is the FlesK- market, I think the greatest market in England for all sorts of flesh and poultry that is sould there every Saterday ; the reason is not the populousnesse of the town that makes it, it is the people of the country, (within ten miles of the town) who makes their pro- vision there, as likewise all that lives by coale trade, for working and conveying coales to the water ; as also the shipping that comes into this river for coales sometimes three hundred sayles of ships." # Towards the south end of this market was a large cross, with a leaden cistern upon it, to hold the new-water : it was pulled down about the year 17^8.^ The New Flesh Market is about seventy- two yards by sixty-three ; is divided into four streets, containing one hundred and fifty- three neat and uni- form stalls; and is built of hewn free-stone, and roofed with blue slate. Its approach, on the north, is from the High-bridge, on the east from Pilgrim-street, on the south from Mosely-street, and on the west from the old Flesh-market. At its entrance from Mosely- street is an offal market and a weigh-house. It was built in 1808. Corn markets* — The market days for corn, in I649> were Tuesdays and Saturdays, when wheat and rye were sold in Pilgrim-street, and bigg and oats between Middle-street and Nungate ; J in which places a* id at which times they are at present holden. Tuesday's market is small. Gale Cross* — In the lower part of the Side standeth a faire crosse with columnes of stone hewn, * Grey, p. i8. | Bourne, p. 53. $ Grey, p. 19. CROSSES AND MARKETS. 73 covered with lead, where is sold milk, egges, butter, &c."|| " There is at the top of it a cistern which holds the new-water.* In 1319 and 1360 it is called Cale-Cross, and in 1653 Keale Cross, terms obtained from having either broth or kale wort, an antient in- gredient for making broth, sold at its It was rebuilt by Mr Stephenson, at the expence of sir M. W. Ridley, bar t. in 1783; but being considered an in- convenience to the street, it was lately presented by the corporation to its donor, and has been set up in his grounds at Blagdon. Sandhill-Market. — In 1393 a proclamation was made commanding all merchandize to be removed from the Sandhill, where the towns people were wont to resort for recreation .+ While the tide continued to flow over this place, up to Low-bridge,;}: the fish- market seems to have been in the old Flesh-market, $ and at the Stock-bridge in Pandon.|| In Grey's time " Sandhill was a market for fish and other commodi- ties." At present this market is daily and very abun- dantly supplied with fish, vegetables, rabbits, and such like. The rabbits are brought from the warrens on the sea-coast, as far as Holy-Island. The gardens of Newburn, Hexham, 8cc. supply a great part of the vegetables. Fish* are brought m the spring months G [| Ibid. * Bourne, p. .123. t Claus. 1 6 Ric. ii. m. 15. Dorso. f Grey, p. 9. § Bourne, p. 54. || Grey, p. 13. * From the time of Henry I. there is frequent mention of the fisheries of the Tyne. Salmon was formerly so plentiful in this river, that apprentices covenanted in their indentures not to be fed with it more than twice a week. In 1755, it sold at id. and ijd. a pound in Newcastle. At Newburn, in 1761, two hundred and sixty salmon were caught at a draught; and, in 74 STREETS. by the Yorkshire five men boats; but the regular supply is from Newbiggen, Cullercoats, and Whit- burn. The Groat Market was in the street which still bears its name. Wool was sold in € the large open 5 towards the lower end of the Groat Market, and Iron a little past the end of Denton-Chare, opposite to St. Nicholas church. In " All-hallows Banck, or Butch- ers Banck, (where most butchers dwell")* there has for many years been a large market for Mutton. The corporation, not many years since, built the Poultry Market at the west end of the High-Bridge, where, as well as at Cale-cross, Butter and Eggs are sold every Saturday. There is a Milk market at the west end of Sandgate. STREETS. The Quay Side extends from the Maison de Dieuf to Sandgate, in length one hundred and three i775,two hundred and sixty-five at a draught, at theLow-Ughts, near the mouth of the river. Brand, ii. 32, 33. Of late years they have been very scarce. Some attribute their decrease to the manufactories and craft upon the river; but the cau*e may be more satisfactorily traced to the lock at Bywell and to the "Winlaton mills, which prevent them passing up the shallow streams in the breeding season. In 1559, as alderman (Grey, p. $*J Anderson (Bourne, p. 133, Brand. 2. 47.) was leaning over the bridge, and handling his ring, he dropt it into the river. Some time after, his servant bought a salmon in the market here, in whicn the same ring was found. The ring is *till in the possession of the Anderson family. It has a fish engraven under the signet, the stone of which, Mr Brand supposed to be an antique. 1 his family have also a deed sealed with it, prior to the date of this occurrence. See a similar tale in Uttlebury's Herodotus, vol. 1, p. 2JZ; and in Collier's Dictionary, under Kentigern. * Grey, p. 18. f There was another house of this name near the Manors i* this town, called also Ward's Alms-house, " John Warde a STREETS. 75 rods, and in breadth, since the removal of the wall, in l662,f from sixty to seventy feet. In 1616, the water-gates in the wall were all, except one or two, locked up in the nights, and a watch set upon the walls to prevent servants from throwing ashes and rubbish into the river.J At present this is " one of the longest and most commodious wharfs in the kingdom."?^ Twenty-one dark, narrow chares lead from the Q lay-side into Pandon, and to the upper parts of Nevv castle. " These have so many times changed their names, and in all probability will so often do it, that it is to little purpose at present to mention them."|| The Close, so called from its having been en- closed on every side with strong fortifications, was in old times inhabited by many opulent families. " Sir John Marley, sir William Blacket, sir Mark Milbank's, and the houses of many other gentlemen are remembered by the antient inhabitants. And, indeed, however the g 2 richemarchant of Newcastelle made a Maisun Dieu for twelve poor men and twelve poor women by the Augustine freres in Newca-itell." Lela.id's Itm. vol. v, p. 114. A deed> dated Dec. 1, 1475, 8a y s ** J onn Wardes almous house stonding in Cow- gate nye the Frer Augu tins lately edified and belded by the said John Warde " Brand, i. 358. It is the " chief alms house in the town. Old Mr Brandling pulled off the lead, on pur- pose to expel the poor people, which he did." Bourne, p. 138. f See p. 8. \ Bourne, p. 132. § Brand, i 20. Grey describes it thus: '* a long key or wharfe where ships may lye safe from danger of stormes, and may unlode their commodities and wares upon the key. In it is two cranes for heavy commodities, very convenient for car- rying of corn, wine, deales, &c. from the key into th^ water- gates, which is along the key-side, or into any quarter of the town." p. 17. U Bourne, p. 133. ?6 STREETS. street itself may be, however mean the fronts of the houses are, within they speak magnificence and gran- deur, the rooms being very large and stately, and for the most part adorned with curious carving."* From the north side of this street, three long flights of stairs ascend the castle banks, viz : Tuthil-stairs, opposite the Mansion-house; the Long-stairs, leading into Bailiff-gate ; and the Castle-stairs, leading to the southern postern of the castle, and remarkable as a great market for shoes and old apparel. Westgate-street, says Grey, " is broad and private ; for men that lives there hath imployment for town and country /'f " It is chiefly inhabited by .clergy and gentry: and indeed it seems all along to have been inhabited by such more than others. In some writings above 400 years old, we meet with the names of some clergymen who lived in this street, not to mention those who belonged to the monasteries and hospitals.";}; Charlotte-square, near the head of this street, was built by Mr Newton, architect, on the property of Bennet-chessie friars, which extends from the Westgate, on one side of the Priory, to the head of Finchale-street, on the other, and is let for the term of one hundred and four years, at 91. a year. Newgate-street. — The antiquity of this part of the town may be inferred from the architecture of the chancel of St. Andrew's church. That Monk- Chester, as Grey and Bourne assert, was here, is mat- ter of very uncertain conjecture. Most of the Saxon * Bourne, p. 126. See also before, at p. f Choro. p. 30. I Bourne, p. 3*. STREETS. ?? towns were on the very scites of Roman forts : from analogy we, therefore, suppose, that Monkchester (of which, in 1074, " no vestige could be found/''*) stood upon the grave of its parent, Pons iElii. The street which stretches from Newgate to Bar- ras-bridge was antiently called Side-gate, at present, Percy-street. Of late years several excellent houses have been built in it. Albion-street, and Albion Place, at the north-west part of it, are both modern. The Parade, at its junction with Nor- thumberland-street, was made in 1809. The burial- ground for Dissenters, on the north side of it, is called in St. Andrew's register, in 1708, " tlie Quigs buring- place, near the Swirll* in Sidgatt."f " The suburbs of Newgate and Pilgrim-street are ruinated in these late wars."{ Gallow-gate (so called because malefactors go that way from the town to execution) in Bourne's time was, " however, be- come again a very tolerable street." § Northumberland-street, reaching from Magdalen hospital, to Pilgrim -street, had so far reco- vered from the devastation in the civil wars, as to be called by Bourne " the most pleasant situation of any within or without the town."|| It is spacious and well built; most of the houses ave gardens behind them. On the east side of it is Saville-row, a retired and elegant street, named in honor of the late sir George Saville. G 3 * Sim. Dunel. Hist. col. 206. * i. e. runnel, or as Bourne explains it c Syke.* f Courant* Jan, 14, 1786. ' ' i Grey, p. 18. § p. 147. (J p. ij!. 78 STREETS. Pilgrim-street, tailed by Grey, the longest and fairest street in the town ; seems to have derived its name from Pilgrims lodging in it, " that came to visit the shrine in Gesmond, or Jesu de Munde.'^f u Near the Pilgrims* Inn, is a place of sanctuary, as \3T had their place of refuge, and their Asylum"** " From Upper- Dean-bridge downwards is the most beautiful part of" this " street, the houses on each side of it being most of them very pretty, neat, and regular ; such as the houses of Mr Edward Harl, Mr Thomas Biggs, John Rogers, Esq,; Thomas Clennell, Esq. ; Nicholas Fenwick, Esq, ; Nathaniel Clayton, Esq.; Edward Collingwood, Esq.; Mr Perith, Mr John White, John Ogle, Esq.; Mr Thomas Waters, Matthew White, Esq*; &c/ ># At present few of these families retain their residences here, the greater part of the street having of late years been converted into shops and inns. The Side, a narrow and inconvenient street, leads from the Sandhill to St. Nicholas church .f Its lower part is generally much incommoded by the carts of carriers, standing in readiness to receive merchants* goods: the upper part of it, steep and strait as it may seem, was the main entrance from the low to the high town, prior to the formation of Dene-street# J Choro. p. 19. ** MS. * Bourne p. 85, f All the old houses at the head of the Side, and on each side of the Middle street, as far up as the middle of the old Flesh-Market, have been lately purchased by the corporation and pulled down, by which the fine old church of St. Nicholas has been exposed, and a large space of open ground obtained between Collingwood and Mosely streets. The row of houses between the old Fle^h-Market and Middle-street is Hkewise destined to the same fate. STREETS. 79 The way from Sandhill to Pilgrim-street was up Butcher-bank, by All Saints church; or along the Quay-side, up Broad-chare and Manor-chare. " The Side is from the one end to the other filled with the shops of merchants, goldsmiths, milliners, upholsterers, &c. J, J Most of these shops, at present, are occupied by flax- dressers and cheese-mongers. Dene- street, so called from the dene or hollow through which Lork-burn passes, was commenced a- bout twenty years since. It ranges north and south between Mosely-street and the Side. This street, and Collmgwood and Mosely-streets, are chiefly occupied by tradesmen, and are generally allowed to contain as excellent shops as any out of the metropolis. At right angles with Dene-street, Mosely- street extends between the old Flesh-Market and Pilgrim- street. It was built a few years before Dene- street, and named after the late Alderman Mosely. Collingwood-street was opened in 1810, and joins the old Flesh-Market and Westgate-street together. The foundation of the Roman wall is said to have been discovered near the east end of it. Pan don is in all antient records written Pamp- don or Pampedene, a term of Saxon origin, signify- ing well-hill^ and probably obtained from the an- tient reseivoir at the head of Pandon-Bank. The boundaries of this antient town are very imper- fectly defined, though it would appear from Grey s account that the Trinity House, the Priory on the Wall-Knoll, and the Augustine Priory, were within its circuit* By a charter, dated Dec. £0, 1299, t Ibid, p, izz* 80 STREETS* Edward I. granted to the burgesses of Newcastle the lands and tenements, with their premises, in Pampe- don, in the manor of Byker, near Newcastle, to be held like Newcastle, in free burgage, and the two places henceforth to constitute one town and borough . # By the term lands and tenements, in Pampedon, without the mention of either town or village, one might suppose the place was inconsiderable at the time of making the grant. The Carmelites or White Friars had, however, a monastry on Wall-Knoll, on the eastern side of Pandon, in the time of Henry III. and, on account, of the town wall, which had been lately built, passing through a field of theirs, and close by their church, and straitening them very much for room, they obtained a grant, dated May 26, 1307? of the house of the Friars of the Sac.f The Austin Friars was built long before that of St. Michael .{ u After the departure of the Romans, the kings of Northumberland kept their residence in this place, and had their house now called Pandon Hall/'§ which was " of considerable bigness" extending in length, on the north, from Stock-bridge^f to Cow-gate, and from Cowgate to Blyth-nook. It is now, says Bourne, in some manner rebuilt, though there are still remain- ing many antient walls and parts of it.|| * Brand, H. 46. f Ibid i. 6o« i See p,p. 13, 15, § Grey p 12 *[ This bridge, Bourne supposes from its name, was formerly made of wood. It was of stone temp. Ed. I. Perhaps it had its name from selling stock-fish at the market antiently held at it. 1! P. 13*. STREETS. 81 Dr. Stukeiy, in his Iter Boreale, p. 64, mentions a seal-ring, found near Pandon, and at that time in the possession of Mr Wai burton, from the engraving of it on whose map, this is a copy. " This place of Pandon is of such antiquity, that if a man would expresse any ancient thirg, it is a com- mon proverb, As old as Pandon. In it is many an- cient buildings, houses and streets ; some gentlemen of Northumberland had their houses in it." # " The Duke of Northumberland had his house in Pandon, called to this day ye Dukes Place/'f " In this part of the town of Pandon, below, is many narrow streets or chaires, and ancient buildings; through the midst of it, the river Tine flows and ebbs, and a bume runs called Pandon burne. This place called the Bume Banck, stands very low ; it is record- ed that in Edward the third's time, an hundred and forty houses was drowned by o\er-fiowing of water; since the houses towards the Key side are heightned with ballist, and a high stone wall, without which wall is a long and broad wharf or key, which hindereth the like inundation.";}; Pandon, at present, is chiefly occupied by ware- houses, and the dwellings of labouring people. Suburbs of Pandon. — Several houses have of late years been built on the out -side of the town wall, in Pandon Dene, and considerable improve- ments been made in Pandon-Bank. There are also * Grey, p. *a. f MS. \ Grey, p. 33. 82 STREETS. a few good houses erected at the head of Pandon« Bank ; and the two ranges of modern buildings, call- ed Pleasant Row and Shield-Field, are well built, and have a high and healthy situation.* " The Suburbs of Sandgate escaped the fury of these civil warres, except some neer the walls of the towne, which was fired."f In January, 1644, we however find, in Rushworth, that the marquis of Newcastle " for the better guard of the town" against the Scots, " set the Sand-gate, a street with- out the walls, and the other suburbs on fire, which continued burning all Sunday and Monday "J When the town was taken, the walls here were undermined by the Elswick and Benwell colliers, and blown up.|| The street called Sandgate is very narrow, crowded, and populous, as are also the numerous lanes that branch each way from it. It is chiefly inhabited by keelmen, a hardy and laborious race of people em- ployed in conveying coals from the staiths to the ships in Shields harbour. At the west end of this street there is a great weekly market on Saturdays, for all kinds of wearing apparel, and on the Sundays, in har- vest, reapers are hired here and atBarras-bridge. St. Ann's is a continuation of Sandgate street, from which it is separated by a runnel called the * In January, 1644. "a smart dispute happened here: the town had raised a fort at the entrance into Shield»field, to gain which the Scots &ent out two parties; one to attack the fort on the east side, the other on the west; in which service, divers of them were cut off by cannon, and particularly Patrick English, the earl of Lindsay's captain-lieutenant, slain." Rush« ■worth's Coll. pt. 3. vol. ii. p, 61 3. f Grey, p. 38. J Ibid. | Brand, ii, p. 467. BOUNDARIES. 83 Squirrel; prior to the jear, 1776, the high way to North Shields led through these streets ; bat in that year The New Road, past the Keelman's Hospital, was made behind them, where a street of handsome houses has been gradually forming ever since. The part of this street, called New Egypt, obtained its name from the large wooden granaries built near it, in the late years of scarcity. St. Ann's Row is agreeably situated on the east side ot St. Ann's Chapel yard. Here the street branches to North Shields, and to the Glasshouses, St. Peter's, Dent's Hole, &c. and, at a short distance, each branch crosses the Ouse-burn, over a stone bridge. The lower bridge, in Grey's time, was of wood, and Bourne says it was built of stone, in 1669. On the side of Ouse-Burn are some extensive manufactories, and its banks of late years have be- come very populous. BOUNDARIES. In the 2d and 3d of Edward VI. all that ground from the Svverle in Sand^ate, by the river Tyne, to St. Laurence Quay, and sweeping away on the north side, from thence to Stoney-ford, and through Great and Little St. Ann's Closes, Durham Close, Baxter's Close, and Lumley Close, till it again join the Swexle, running towards Sandgate, was added to the town and county of Newcastle. The boundaries of the town, before this addition of property, are said to be as follows : From the Swerie r on the east side of the town, along the shores of the Tyne into Elswick 84 PUBLIC GROUNDS. fields, thence into the fields of Fenham, Kenton, Cox- lodge, Jesmond, along Barras-bridge, down a lane to Sandiver-bridge, and through Shield-field, into a lane leading to the Tyne. PUBLIC GROUNDS. Forth.— Henry Ill.by charter dated Dec. 1, 1238, " upon the good men of Newcastle's supplication," gave them leave during his pleasure to dig coals and stones in the Castle Field and the Forth, to assist them in pay- ing their fee-farm rent of 100L # Edward III. gave them the Forth for their good services.*}- By order of the common-council a wall was built, and trees, brought out of Holland, planted around it in 1680. J It was an antient custom of the corporation to go in procession to this place at the feast at Easter and Whitsuntide ; and the vast concourse of young people here at these seasons seems to be the remains of this antient custom .§ It contains eleveu acres of ground, is surrounded by a gravel walk, planted on each side with limes, and is one of the chief promenades of the town. The Castle Leazes, antiently called the castle field, containing one hundred and forty one acres, eleven perches, according to Grey's account, was granted to the town by king John. Adjoining to this, on the west and north, lies the Town Moor, which contains one thousand and thirty-seven acres, one rood, and two perches, and was formerly a wood very famous for oaks, out of which have been built * Gardiner's Eng. Griev. p. 9. f Grey, p. 15, £ Brand, i. 419. § Bourne, p. 146. PUBLIC GROUNDS. 85 many hundred ships and all the houses of the old town of Newcastle. Both these tracts of land were re- presented as the immemorial right of the town in 1356, when Edward III. in his charter to the town confirmed the right of holding them, and of working coals, stones, &c. in them.* The Nun's Moor lies on the west side of the Town's Moor. It belonged to the nuns of St Bartho- lomew, and after the dissolution, was sold by John Branxholme, to Robert Brandling of Newcastle, mer- chant, for 211. The corporation purchased it of Mr Charles Brandling of Gateshead, either in 1650, or l651.f In consequence of a violent dispute between the magistrates and the body of free burgesses, respecting the leasing of a part of these grounds, an act of par- liament was procured, 14 Geo. III. by which the herbage of the Town Moor, the Castle Leases, and the Nun's Moor, was confirmed to the burgesses, and power for its improvement was provided. A resident freeman and burgess, or his widow, has right of stint- age on them for two milch cows. RaceGround . — Newcastle races, formerly, were annually run on Killingworth Moor. In 1695, the common council ordered, that for the future, it should be inserted in the Gazette, that no horse shall run for the plate of this town, that ever run on any course south of the Trent. Cato won the royal purse, of one hundred guineas, on the Town Moor, in 3753; and, three years after ; J the race ground, there, was put H • Bourne, p. 150. f Brand, i. 440, $ Brand, i, 43J. 86 PUBLIC GROUNDS. into good repair. It is two miles around. The Grand Stand adjoining it is an elegant stone edifice, from the galleries of which there is a fine view of nearly the whole of the course. The races are annually in June, and last six days. Watek. — The earliest account of aqueducts into this town is dated 3349* " There be" says Leland, " three hedds of condutes for frech water to the town." The top of Pandon-bank is commonly called 6 Conduit Hill/ and a reservoir still remains behind the houses there, which supplies Sandgate pant with water. The water in Ga!low-gate was intended to be brought into the town, in 1656. There was great scarcity of it, in 1675. Mr Cuthbert Dykes, in 1680, erected a wa- ter engine, without Sandgate, for supplying the brew- houses, victualling-houses, &c. with water from the Tyne. In 1694, Mr William Soulsby treated with the common-council for bringing water from the Castle Leazes, and, in the 9th and 10th of Will. III. there was a private act for the better sup [lying of the town with water, from three springs, on Great-Us- worth Moor ; about which time, William Yarnold, gent, had a lease from the common-council, for erect- ing cisterns and laying pipes in the town for convey- ing the new-water from the great pond, at Carr-Hill. The reservoirs on the Town Moor were foimed in 1770; and, in 1777, about 5001. was expended by the common-council, in preparing aqueducts for convey- inc water from the Spring-gardens into the town. # The public fountains in this town are called pants ■ — a vulgar corruption of pond, as in ' midden pant/ • JBrand, i. 442, 446. PRIVILEGES, CHARTERS, &C. 87 which means a dung-hill pond. Pont-ea-land signi- fies the water land by the pond, the river Pont evi- dently deriving its name from its stagnant course, espe- cially as it passes through the great pond called Prest- wick-Carr. Wells were at first nothing more than open springs, perhaps stagnant at their heads, and hence the term, pants or ponds. Lamps. — There was a proposal made, in 1755, for lighting this town with one hundred and fifty lamps; but it could not boast of this convenience, till an act of parliament, ten years after, was obtained for lighting the streets and other places, and maintaining a regular and nightly watch within the town, and for regulating the hackney- coachmen, cartmen, porters and watermen. PRIVILEGES, CHARTERS, &c. Newcastle was the property of the crown in the time of the Conqueror, whose son, Rufus, having built " Westminster Hall And the castel of Newcastell with all," out of the revenues of the sees of Canterbury, York, Sarum, and Winchester, and of nine Abbies, (i gave them ground andgolde full great to spend To buylde it well and walle it all aboute Audjraunchised theim to paye a free rent out."* That this monarch converted Newcastle into a free borough, and demised it, at a certain yearly fee farm, to its own burgesses, is also plain from the charter of king John, in 1201, calling the rent paid at that time " the old fee-farm." Henry I. granted the inhabit- h 2 • Hardyng'a Chronicle. 88 PRIVILEGES, CHARTERS, &C. ants of this town various immunities,* and Henry II. exempted them from the payment of toll, passage, pontage, hanse duty, and of every other impost for goods, which they could ascertain were their own in any part of the kingdom. f King John, Feb. 7, 1200, raised their old fee-farm from 501. to 601. a year; and two days after, being then in Newcastle, confirmed his father's grant. By charter, dated at Stockton, in 1212, he raised the fee- farm to 1001. a year, and exempted the burgesses from being answerable for any of their property to the Sheriff of Northumberland ; but the most important franchises obtained in this reign, are contained in the charter, dated at Durham, Jan. 28 5 1215. By this they were exempted from being distrained, out of the town, for the payment of any debt for which they were not chief debtors or surety — from trial by dual — from being judged of misrecordia money — from the payment of yeresgyne and scotale — from customs un- • An antient parchment register, in Northumberland-House, contains an article entitled: " These are the laws and customs which king Henry granted to his burgesses of Newcastle." The following are extracts from it. " Whoever {hall hold land in the borough, a year and a day, justly, and without claim, if the claimant be within the kingdom, he is not bound to answer such claimant. If a burgess has a son at his table in his house, let the son have equal liberty with his father. The forfeiture of a burgess towards the bailiff, ought to go to the common fund. In the borough there ought neither to be given merchet, heriot, blood-wit, or stengedwit. Every burgess may have an oven and a mill. If any one sell any of his bread, or ale, it shall be forfeited to the bailiff, who may act thus: if he incurs the forfeit twice, he must pay it; if thrice, he must be punish- ed by common-council of the burgesses. No foreigner to be allowed to cut fish to sell. A burgess may carry his corn out of the country, whithersoever he pleases, without licence," Brand, vol. ii. in latin, p. 130, in English, p. 366. f Brand, ii. 1&8, 132,. PRIVILEGES, CHARTERS, &C. 89 justly levied in times of war ; and obtained the pri- vilege of traversing in the pleas of the crown — of holding justly their lands, tenures, recognizances and debts — that pleas should be held in Newcastle for alt debts or recognizances lent or made there — and that merchants resorting hither with merchandize, should be permitted to stay in the king's peace, and in like manner to depart, after payment of customs become due.* Henry III. confirmed these grants, July 2, 1235,— forbade Jews to reside in Newcastle — allowed the burgesses to work coals and stones in the Castle-field, and gave them the coals and stones of the Forthf — ordained, in 1251, that, to the four bailiffs of the town, a mayor should be addedj — and by charter, dated Oct. 18, of the same year (a. r. 36.) granted them the perpetual right of choosing their own coroners.{{ This is from an impression of' the Seal of the cor- poration of New* castle, taken on green w ax, in 1265. The inscription : Commune si- gillum Novi Castri Super Tynam§ There • Brand, ii. 132, i^g is the representation of a still h 3 f Gardiner's Eng. Griev. p. y> t Wallis* Northumb. vol. ii. p. 187. Brown WiIIi3. I Brand, ii. 138, 141. Bourne, p. iB 7- § Bourne, p. 143* 90 PRIVILEGES, CHARTERS, &C. older seal, preserved in the Vetusta Monumenta of the Society of Antiquaries of London.* Edward I, in 1282, summoned the town to send to his parliament, at Shrewsbury, two of its if more wise and experienced citizens :" this is the first ac- count on record, of boroughs sending members to parliament. f In 1293; he confirmed the charters of the 18th and S6th of Henry III. — and at York, Dec. 20, 1298, granted to the burgesses of Newcastle, the lands and tenements in Pampedon, in the manor of Byker, to be united to the town of Newcastle, for its increase, improvement, and security .J Edward II. Dec. 18, 1815, addressed a letter of thanks to the mayor, bailiffs, and good men of New- castle, for their valour and loyalty ;§ next year grant- ed that no purveyances should be made in the town; and by charter, dated at York, Nov. 12, 1318, con- firmed the grants of the 17th of king John, and or- dained that the burgesses should be free of toll, murage and pannage, for all their merchandizes, in every part of his dominions — have trials amongst themselves by their fellow burgesses, unless in matters relative to the king or the community of the town — and that per- sons should not be lodged upon any of them against their will, except when the king should be there with his army, or the justices itinerant in their circuit, when the king's or justice's marshal, under the inspection of the mayor and bailiffs, should provide inns for the free quartering of persons intitled to that privilege.^ * Brand, ii. 141, 14a, 185. f Brand, ii. 198. Hutch. Northumb. vol. ii. p. 406. $ Brand, ii. 143, I47« § Rymer's Fced< vol. iii. p. 544* % Brand, ii, 149, i$% % PRIVILEGES, CHARTERS, SCC. 91 Edward III. made the mayor escheator within the limits of the town;* confirmed several bye-laws agreed upon at a full guild, held at St. Mary's hospital, in VVestgate, relative to the government of the to\vn;f exempted the town from the jurisdiction of the ad- miral, constable, and marshal of England, and from the earl warden of the Marches; J confirmed the for- mer franchises, the right of the herbage and royalty of " the Castle Feld and Castel More; v || granted royal licence for the acquisition of certain lands ;§ issued an ordinance concerning the manner of choosing the mayor and other officers ; and a patent about the measuring of coals. ^[ Richard II. confirmed former charters; gave li- cence for a sword of state to be borne before the mayor; and conceded certain pieces of ground for the convenience of making highways and bridges.* Henry IV. renewed the franchises of the town; and, in 1400, constituted it a county of itself, and en* trusted the government of it to Roger Thornton, mayor, William Redmarshall, its first sheriff, and in- stead of the four bailiffs, created six aldermen, whom he invested with the power of justices of the peace.*|- Henry VI. granted the corporation certain customs to be taken of every ship in the port of the town, and confirmed all former immunities, especially the grant of the 22d Edw. III. of exemption from the admiral, constable, and marshal of England, and the wardeu of the Marches.^ * Brand, ii. 153. f Brand, ii. 155. J Wallis' Northumb. ii. 189. J Brand, ii. 164. § Wallis* Northumb. ii. 190. f Ibid. • Brand, ii. 166, 167. Gardiner's Eng. Griev. p. 13. t Bourne, p. 205, f Brand, ii. 17 J. 92 PRIVILEGES, CHARTERS, &C. By a decree of the star chamber, dated May £, 1516, it was ordered " that on the antient day of election, each of the twelve crafts should present two of their body, which twenty-four, after having been sworn, were to elect four, who had been mayors, al- dermen, or sheriffs of the town, who were to choose eight to themselves, which twelve were to elect other twelve; which twenty- four were to choose a mayor, six aldermen, a recorder, a sheriff, eight chamberlains, two coroners, a sword-bearer, a common clerk, and eight Serjeants at mace." # A decree of the privy council, dated June £3, 1557, increased the number of aldermen, from six to ten. Queen Elizabeth also exemplified and confirmed se- veral former grants ; forgave the town a great arrear in the duty of coal, enlarged its municipal rights by let- ters patent, dated May £0, 1588; and on the ££d of March, 1599, granted the great charter, which constitutes the basis of their constitution, and cost them 6341. 10s. It was, however, the charter of James I. that final- ly and solidly established to this opulent body, its large immunities; that fully defined the time and manner of electing its mayor, sheriff, chamberlains, &c; the duration and office of electors and alder- men ; and that clearly pointed out the nature and ex- tent of the jurisdiction of its magistrates, the pri- vileges of the freemen, and the liberties of the town. The Offices of the Corporation at present are — a mayor, recorder, sheriff, ten aldermen, twenty- * Bracdjii. 179. COURTS. 93 four common-council, twenty-four electors, two coro- ners, a town-clerk, under-sheriff, sword-bearer, clerk of the chambers, eight chamberlains, eight Serjeants at mace, (whereof the water-bailiff, who bears the great mace, and the sheriffs' serjeant, are of the num- ber) a water-bailiff, quay-master, gaoler, corn-inspec- tor, town-marshall, town-surveyor, and common-cry- er; besides the constables of the twenty-four wards of the town. COURTS. The Mayor's Court, held in Guildhall every Monday throughout the year, except in the weeks of Christmas, Easter, and Pentecost, " is a court of re- cord, and of great importance. It preserves the rights, laws, franchises, and customs of the corporation. In it are tried all actions for debt, trespasses, accounts, covenants, broken attachments, sequestrations, or other matters arising within the town and liberties, to any value whatsoever."* It is restrained,^ however, from holding pleas on debts under 40s. except for rent reserved upon lease, and some other causes of action, which the court of conscience does not extend to. Attornies, who have served their clerkship to an attorney of the mayor's chamber, are allowed to plead in it, though they be not freemen, t The Sheriff's Court and the Mayor's " are of similar jurisdiction and practice, and only differ in this particular, viz : that actions are brought only against free burgesses in the mayor's court, and against • WallU' Northumb. ii. 193. f See Common*' JournaIs a vol. x, I Brand, ii. 19c. 94 counts. foreigners and non-freemen in the sheriff's, No ac- tion can be removed from one of these courts to the other ," # In cases where " either of the party can- not stay in town till the day of trial, his testimony in writing will be allowed as good evidence."f It is held on Wednesdays and Fridays,' in every week throughout the year, except the weeks of Christmas, Easter, and Pentecost.J w The sheriff, if he pleases, may sit upon all trials along with the recorder, who is also judge here,"|| The Court of Conscience, or C^urt of Re- quests, was erected by act of parliament, immediately after the revolution, and confirmed by statute of 27 Geo. II. c. 16. § <2. It is directed by the mayor or senior alderman, six other aldermen, and seven com- mon-council-men, annually chosen for the purpose. Three of these commissioners, with the mayor and one alderman, have power to hear and determine all matters of debts or actions, upon the case upon #s- sumpsits not amounting to the full value of 40s. " as they shall find to stand with equity and good con- science" in a summary way, and with or without ad- journments. They can by their beadle levy debts or damages by them awarded, by distress and sale of the creditors goods. It extends to all persons, non-free- men as well as freemen, residing within the liberties of the town ; but not to any debt for rent upon lease of lands, or any real contracts, or debt concerning any testament, matrimony, or ecclesiastical things, though they amount not to 40s. Its charges are limited by * Brand, ii. 190. f Wallis' Northumb. 11. 195. J Chart, of 4% Elis« g Wallis' Northumb. ii. p. io> COURTS. 95 the act to 3d. for a summons, 4d. for a warrant to commit to prison, 4d. for a warrant for seizing and disposing of goods, &c. # Court of Admiralty, or River Court. — Ad- miral jurisdiction was granted by king John, and con- firmed by succeeding princes to the mayor and bur- gesses of Newcastle. Lord Howard, of Effingham, was admiral of this port and the river Tyne, from 1522 to 1 605, when he resigned it to the mayor and burgesses, with power to hold a court of admiralty, &c.f This court is held before the mayor, at such times as he chooses to direct. His deputy, the water- bailiff, gives notice of all injuries done to the river and the breed of salmon, that offenders may be punished according to law.J In Grey's time it was held " every Monday in the after-noon. This is a court of record for inrolling of deeds and evidences."!] The duke of Northumbeiiand is vice-admiral of Northum- berland, and of Newcastle upon Tyne ; and John Davison, Esq. of Newcastle, is his deputy. u There is a Court of Pye-po\vder,§ dun-io* the two faires of Lammas and Saint Luke. A I the privikdges and power that a cjurt-leet can ,ave, is granted 10 tins court "^[ It is tor examining and try- • Act. A° i°. Gull et Man*. f Brand, ii. 17, 20, — The oar placed before the mayor fa his admiralty sessions, has the royal arms, and * A°. R. R. ] a# 4." on one nde; and, on the other, the arms of the town, and u A Dm. 1606 " I Wallis* Northumb. ii. 196, || Choro. p. 17. § Pie-powder courts derive their name from pied-poudreux, du.ty foot, because the court is summary in its proceedings, and pas es judgement on offenders before they can wipe the dust offtheir sh- e9. Bracton calb it justitiam pepoudrous,lib, S tract, x. ca. 6. au. 6. See statute, an. 17. Ed, 4. ca. z. f Choro. p. 17. 96 counts. ing all suits brought for petty differences and offences committed contrary to the proclamation issued at these fairs. # u The Court of Common-council is after the model of the supreme council of the nation. It consists of two houses. One is for the mayor and aldermen. The other is for the commoners. They make all bye-laws for the general benefit of the cor- poration. In this court also, all deeds and evidence are recorded. The mayor can call and adjourn it at pleasure."^ It is held in the mayor's chamber. The Court of Guild is held three times in the year. " The principal business is for apprentices, and sons of freemen, to petition for their freedom. These are called by the style of the company that their fathers or masters were of: this is what is term- ed " calling their guilds/' The wardens and stewards of the several companies attend to prevent any person from obtaining his freedom who may not be entitled to it. An apprentice is called at three different guild days ; the son of a freeman only once."J Objections are heard before the common-council : till they be re- moved, the applicant cannot be sworn a freeman; but, if they be unfounded, he may be sworn into his guild by the mayor, or any of the magistrates. The Quarter Sessions are held by the ma- gistracy of the town, in Guild-Hall, where also are held the annual assizes, in August. By the great charters of Elizabeth and James, the mayor, recorder, and aldermen, are invested with full power, to hold * Wallis' Nor thumb, ii. 196. f Ibid. f Brand, ii, 193. COMPANIES OF FREEMEN. 97 gaol deliveries for the town, and to erect a gallows within its liberties, to hang felons, murderers, and other malefactors, according to the laws and customs of England. The coroners and sheriff are entrusted with returning all juries, inquisitions, &c. whenever the magistrates shall think fit to deliver fce gaol ; and with executing the precepts of the magistrates** COMPANIES OF FREEMEN. Newcastle contains three distinct classes of Free- men. The twelve MYSTEKiEsf by the charter of king James, were each confirmed in their antient right of sending two of its members to the elections i * King James' charter. f This term has no relation to the Greek Mi/ruptw or Latin Mysterium, which are always applied to things sacred, religi- ous, or ceremonious ; but comes from the Romaniek word mestiere, mistera, or misterea, in modern French, metier, a trade. Madox', Firma, Burgi, p 32, The following is a list of the twelve Misteries or trades of this town, in the order they stand in king James' charter, with the year of their oldest or- dinaries annexed r 1 Drapers or Merchants of woollen cloth — . % Mercers - - ■ 3 Skinners - - 1437 4 Taylors - - 1536 5 Merchants of corn or Boothmen - - — — 6 Bakers and Brewers i66t 7 Tanners - - 15 3Z 8 Cordwainers - - 1566 9 Sadiers - . 1459 io Butchers • . 1621 11 Smiths • . I43 6 12 Fullers and Dyers 1477 The merchants of woollen cloth were one of the twelve mysteries, in 1342. About 1650, this company began to be called ' cappers,* a term of reproach bestowed upon them by the Merchant Adventurers, who then began to claim the sole right of being caiied Merchant Drapers, and to usurp the pri- vilege of sending two members to the election of mayors The old society of Drapers, on this account; has become extinct and the Merchant's Society, at present, consists of the united com. panies of Merchant Adventurers, Mercers, and Boothmen. Brand, ii. 313, 98 COMPANIES OF FREEMEN* of mayors, &c. ; the fifteen bye trades/* by the same authority, had their privilege established of sending " one from every of the said fifteen societies" for the like purpose. But the other coMPANiEsf of the town are without this privilege. All the free- men of the town have, however, right of voting at elections for its members of parliament, of making their sons and apprentices free of their respective trades ; and of stinting on the Town-moor. * The fifteen bye trades, in the order of king James* char- ter, with the dates of their oldest ordinaries. Masters & Mariners 1429 Weavers - - 15 % 7 Barber Chirurge- "> onsjwith Chandlers j 44 Cutlers, extinct, no *> ordinary. j"" Shipwrights - 1638 Coopers - 142,6 House Carpenters 1579 Masons - <• 1581 Glovers - - 1436 10 Joiners 11 Millers iz Curriers, with Felt- makers and Ar- mourers 13 Collier?, Paviours,** and Carriage-men 3 14 Slaters 15 Glaziers, Plumb- ^ ers Pewterers, & > Painters - \ 15S9 1656 145* 1563 -1675 7 Upholsterers, Tin- " plate-workers, & ! Stationers - « 8 Sailmakers • 1663 9 Mettors - - 161 1 10 Porters - - 1528 f 1 Hoastmen,a. 24 Eliz. 1581 0, Goldsmiths - 17 17 3 .Musicians, or waits") , (extinct) - J l077 4 Scriviners - 1675 5 Bricklayers - 1660 6 Ropers - - 1648 The Hoastmen*s society is very antient. It existed long be- fore the 24th of Elijz. though their strongest charter was obtain* ed in that year. In it (hey are set forth as a " Guild or Fra- ternity" which had existed in Newcastle " from time whereof the memory of man is not to the contrary, for the loading and the better disposing of sea-coales, and pitt-coales, and grind- stones, rub-stones, and whet-stones." Brand, ii. p 6,59. The following are the names of extinct companies, concern- ing which little is known: Cooks, Sword-slippers, Spicers, Furbishers, Bowyers, Fletchers, Spurriers, Girdlers, and Vint- ners. 99 FAIRS AND POPULATION. Fairs. — King John granted to this town an annu- al Fair to be held on the vigil and day of St. Peter ad vincula, at present called the Lammas fair* Ed- ward II. extended its duration from the 1st to the 28th day of August, on provision that such extension was not prejudicial to the neighbouring fairs.f St. Luke's fair Oct 18, was granted by Henry VII. in 1490.J *' The tolls, booths, stallage, pickage, and courts of pie -powder, to each of these fairs, were reck- oned worth, communibus annis, 121. in Oliver's time."|[ Each of these fairs, at present, lasts for nine successive days; except the show of cattle, sheep and horses, on the Town Moor, which seldom extends beyond the first day of the fair. At these times there are large exhibitions of Yorkshire woollen cloth, in the Old- Fiesh-Market; and of Staffordshire- ware, toys, and various other goods, on Sandhill. There is also an annual fair called the Town fair, on Nov. 22, for fat cattle, called here Marts, from the time Martinmas. Population. — The four parishes of Newcastle, in 1781, had two thousand three hundred and eighty- nine houses, rated to pay window-cess; on Hutton's plan the number is estimated at two thousand four hundred and fifty; the census in 1801, returned three thousand two hundred and seventy-six; and, in 1811, three thousand one hundred and forty-six. The in- habitants in the same district, in 1801, amounted to twenty-eight thousand two hundred and ninety- four; J Brand, ii, 138. f Ibi d. *5* J ftid. *77' (| Bourne, p. 149. LoFC, 100 EIVEH TVNE AND POLICE. and, in 1811, to twenty-seven thousand five hundred - and twenty-seven ; in the month of June, of which year, the number of people in St. Nicholas* parish was four thousand one hundred and sixty-six,— in All Saint's parish, fourteen thousand one hundred and seventy-one, — in St. Andrew's parish, four thousand seven hundred and eighty-four, — and, in St. John's parish, four thousand four hundred and sixty^six. RIVER TYNE AND POLICE. St. Bede is the first author that mentions tliis river by its present name,* The origin and meaning of the name have been much disputed. La Tyne, riviere form&e de deux rivieres. Ty deux ; Tyn, dou- ble. On a 6tendu par abus le nom deTine k chacune des rivieres qui la forment.+ The South Tyne rises behind Crossfell, and in its course receives the Nent* the Tippal, and the Alan. The North Tyne com* niences on the borders of Scotland, and receives the Reed, below Bellingh.am. The two branches join near Nether-warden, and afterwards are augmented, by the Dill, called also Devil's Brook, near Corbridge, by the Derwent (which rises above the Abbey of Blancheland) below Swalwell, and by several smaller streams. In the time of William Rufus, it was proved that this river had, ab omni tempore, been the march between Northumberland and the bishopric of Durham ; and that a moiety of it belonged to each county, while the middle of it was common to all ships and boats. * Eccl Hist. Smith's Edition, p. 183. f Bullet's Memoiressur la X.angue Celtiquc, vol, i,p«34& RIVER TYNE AND POLICE. 101 The conservatorship of the Tyne* appears to have been invested in the Corporation of Newcastle, since the time of Edward II.* though repeated commis- sions have since his time been issued to strengthen his grant. Their jurisdiction extends to high-water mark on both sides of the river, from Spar-Hawk, a rock at the mouth of the haven, to Hedwin-streams, above Newburne, a distance of about nineteen miles, which is annually surveyed on Ascension day, by the mayor, as judge of the Court of Admiralty, and by the river jury, in their barges, attended with a large assembly of their friends and the populace in pleasure boats. " The channel betwixt Newcastle and Tynemouth is of very different width and depth, so that the tide is more rapid in some places than others. The entrance at the Low-lights is very narrow, but forming into a fine large bason, nearly the whole length of Shields, renders it a very large and commodious haven, at the west end of which the tide spreads over the extensive flats of J arrow Slake, and then, for a considerable distance, runs in a broad and deep channel, called the Long Reach, from whence it is obstructed by several windings, till it comes within a mile of Newcastle, whence it again runs in an open stream, a mile and a half above, and is again considerably intercepted in its course by an island, consisting of about twenty-one acres of pasture ground, called the King's Meadows ; after flowing round this island, in two narrow channels, aud through several beautiful windings, it ceases to rise i 3 * Brand, ii. 9* 102 CELEBRATED CHARACTERS* a little above the village of Newburn, about eight miles from Newcastle." Brand, ii. 13, 14, CELEBRATED CHARACTERS. Roger Thornton, the celebrated patron of Newcastle, was the son of Hodgkin Thornton, proba- bly of Thornton in the parish of Hartburn, By his wife,Agnes Law, he had issue John, Roger, and Giles. By his second wife, Elizabeth, daughter of the baron of Greystock, he had issue two daughters, the first married to an Ogle, and the second to Sir George Lumley. This is Mr Brand's account from a Har- lean MS. But it is evident from Thornton's will, that his eldest son's name was Roger, and as lord Greystock's daughter did not die till the year 1440, and the will directs " my body to be buried beside my wife in All-hallows kyrk of Newcastle," without mentioning any wife then alive, we conclude that R. Thornton, " the elder" was only once married, and that it was the daughter of his son Roger, by lady Elizabeth Greystock, to whom sir. G. Lumley was married.* Tradition represents this celebrated character as coming from the country, west of Newcastle, and as poor and badly clothed at his outset in life. He, however, arose to such eminence as to be nine times mayor of this town, and one of its representatives in the parliaments held in the years 1399, 1410, and 1416. He accumulated a large estate ; built the castle of Witton-by-the-waters, now called Nether-witton, and • Sec Bourne, pp. 95 > aiz. Dugdale's Baronage under Lum* ley, Wallis' Northumb. vol. l. p. 5**« CELEBRATED CHARACTERS. ]QS the Westgate of Newcastle ; founded in his life time the Maisoti de Dieu on Sandhill, and a chantry in All Saint's church ; and by his will, dated " the Thurs- day next before yole-day (Christmas day) in the year of our Lord, 1429/' bequeathed considerable sums to the repairs of several churches, to ecclesiastics, and to his servants,* and died on the 3d of January fol- low ing.+ From a twelve years lease executed be- tween him and bishop Skirlaw, in 1401, it appears that he was greatly engaged in lead mines, for this document secures to him, lead mines at Blakden, Aldwode-clough, and Harderake, with a convenient shield in the forest of Weardale, for the feeding of his horses, for the consideration of every ninth load of lead ore.J See before at pp. 9, 28. Robert Rhodes, or Rodes^ was also a great benefactor of the town of Newcastle, and one of its re- presentatives in parliament, m the years 1427, 1428, 1432, 1434, and 1441.§ He and his wife Agnes refounded the chantry of St. John the Baptist, and St. John the Apostle, in St. Nicholas church, in 1428. Henry VI. in 1400, appointed him comptrol- ler of the customs of this port. By an old index of relics in the church of Durham, given in the appen- dix to Smith's edition of Bede, p. 745, we find that Robert ....odes, of Newcastle upon Tyne, a great lawyer, and seneschal of the priory of D irham, who was also a constant and faithful friend of St. Cuthbert, • See his will at length in Bourne, pp. aio, an. f His name occurs in Brand, vol. i, pp. a4, 43, 44, 76, 246, *58>3 6 4, 377, 38*1 3 8 3> 405; and in vol. ii. pp. 101, ioa, actf, 419, 42a, 4*3- J Bourne, p, 305. § Prynne's, 4th part, &c. 104 CELEBRATED CHARACTERS, an assiduous advocate of the rights, maintainer of the liberties, and a fellow of the spiritual chapter of Dur- ham, on the 10th of January, ] 446, gave to the shrine of St. Cuthbert a cross of gold, set with precious stones, and adorned with curious relics. He is called esquire, in 1447; and his name occurs in the years 1451, 1452, and 1461. In 1486, he was one of the bishop of Durham's Justices, at which time his wife also was alive. They were both dead in 1500, when the corporation of Newcastle assigned a tenement for a priest to live in, who should pray for their souls in the chantry they had founded. His arms may be seen under the belfries of the church of St. Nicholas, and St. John. They were also under the belfry of the old church of All Saints, and removed by Col. Villars, from within the gate at Tynemouth Castle, to Dr, Ellison's house in Newcastle. We copied the an- -| nexed representation of his arms from a stone, curiously carved in the Gothic style, and at the vicarage in Corbridge. On the stone is a fillet with an incrip- tion in old English, of which the words Roberti Rodis* are plain enough; the mutilated part was probably Orate pro arrima. Grey is mistaken in calling Robert Rhodes, prior of Tynemouth.f John Rhodes, who was mayor of Newcastle, in 1428, was probably brother to this Robert. Stephen Brown, son of John Brown, grocer, of this town, was knighted and chosen lord Mayor of * See Brand, vol. i. pp. 106,184, a49> *6i, 465,' *6;, 367* 377; and voi.ii. pp. 39> I0I » l82f > ao6 » 7»4« *■' tBra»d,ii.4*3* CELEBRATED CHARACTERS. 105 London, in 1438, for the uncommon zeal and dis- enterested charity he employed in mitigating the ter- rors of a great famine and pestilence, which raged that year in England and France. The poor people were forced to make themselves bread of fern roots. Sir Stepl-en, at his own charge, sent several ships to Dantzick, to purchase rye, with which they so speedily returned as to depress the markets, and check the ravages of famine. He was one of the first, who shewed the way to the Baltic markets in times of scarcity.* Sir Jo hn Marley, asgovernor of the town against the Scots, in 1644, obtaiued great credit. He was sheriff, in 1634, and mayor, in 1637, 1642, 1643, 1644, oo the 14th of .August, in which year, the siege commenced closely. The Scots in all had 30,000 men: the townsmen did not amount to more than 1500.f The earl of Calendar, with 10,000 men, was stationed in Gateshead, and had a bridge of boats at the Glass-houses. General Levin had his head quarters at Elswick. He summoned 3,000 country- men to come with .spades and mattocks.;}; The go- vernour of the town repaired the half-moon-battery, and the castle, at this time ; and, though often sum- moned to surrender, still proudly refused. On the 19th of October, the mines were fired, and furious assault commenced at the breaches, which were de- fended by " scattered shot" from the castle— but, overpowered by numbers, resistance became vain, and • Fuller's Worthies— Northumb. f Bourne, p. 233. \ Whitclock.— Thurloe's State Papers, vol, i. p. 4*. 106 CELEBRATED CHARACTERS. the soldiers of the garrison forsook the walls.* Upon the first entrance of the enemy, the Governour, with Lodowick Lindesey, Earl Crawford, the Lord Max- well, Dr. Wishart and others, that had been most re- solute for holding the town, betook themselves to the castle :f But, on the £2d of the same month, they threw open its gates, and surrendered themselves pri- soners of war. Sir John Marley was treated with great insult and cruelty by the mob, and afterwards persecuted with much asperity by the parliament. He, however, escaped into banishment, where he re- mained till 1658, when he came home, and, as it seems, acted as a spy for the king* J At the restora- tion he immediately came again into favour, and was chosen mayor, in l66l J ohm March, B. D. was born in this town. He was an admirable scholar, a man of strict piety, and a most powerful preacher. Twelve of his ser- mons were published and recommended to the world, in 1693, by Dr. John Scot, author of the Christian Life. He also wrote a work on the Revolution, ad- dressed, in five letters, to Dr. Welwood, which went through different editions.^ "Mark Akenside, born the 9 November, 1721 ; baptized yl 30 of the same month, by the Rev. Mr Benj? Bennet,"|| minister of the meeting-house, * In taking down the walls, at the entrance into Carliol- croft, in July, 18 11, three twenty two pound shot were found in them. f Brand, ii. 466. I Thur. State Pap. vol. vii. pp. 149* 3*3* 5*6, 549> 34& § Bourne, p. 75. I Register of his baptism. See Sra&d, ii. £14* DUKES AND EARLS OF NEWCASTLE, 107 in Hanover-square, was the son of a butcher in this town. Though he carried to the grave a limp in his gait, occasioned by the falling of a cleaver on his foot, when a boy; yet he continued all his life foolishly ashamed of the lowness of his origin. At Edinburgh, he turned from the study of divinity, to physic. He took his degree of M. D. at Leyden, and, in the same year, published his " Pleasures of Imagination." He found a valuable friend and patron in Mr Dyson, who allowed him 3001. a year till he could fix himself in practice. He resided at Northampton first, then at Hampstead. After obtaining a doctor's degree at Cambridge, he was elected fellow of the College of Physicians, and a physician to St. Thomas's Hospital, and to the queen. He printed a discourse in elegant latin, on the dysentery, in 1764; but died, in 1770, and was buried in St. James' church, Westminster.* DUKES AND EARLS OF NEWCASTLE. Lodowick Stewart, son of E-me Stewart, duke of Lenox, in Scotland, baron of Sitringham, in York- shire, was created May 17, 1622, earl of Newcastle upon Tyne, and duke of Richmond ; but, dying with- out issue, the title became extinct.^ William Cavendish, knight of the Bath, baron Ogle, and lord Mansfield, March 7, 1627, was raised to the dignity of b^ron Cavenaish of Bolsover and Bertram, and earl of Newcastle upon Tyne. In gratitude for this and other instances of his sovereign's love, he manned and fortified this town, and the castle of Tynemouth, and gave such other proofs of his * Biog. Brit. f Dugdale's Baronage, vol. iii» p. 416. 108 DUKES AND EARLS OF NEWCASTLE, steady loyalty, that in 1644, he was created marquis of Newcastle. After Charles was beheaded, he re- mained in banishment till the restoration, after which he was made earl of Ogle, and duke of Newcastle, March 16, 1664. His grace wrote several poems and plays, but his treatise on horsemanship is the best known of his works. He died, in 1676. He was succeeded in his estates and honors by his son Henry, who had issue by the eldest daughter of Wm, Pierpont, of Thoresby, Esq, one son, named Henry, and four daughters, Elizabeth, Frances, Mar- garet, and Catharine. Henry died, unmarried, before his father, at whose decease, in 1691, this honor was extinct in the male line; but, John Hollis, who had married Margaret Ca- vendish above mentioned, in consequence of his zeal in promoting the revolution, was promoted to the dig- nity of marquis of Clare, and duke of Newcastle. He died, in 17 H, immensely rich, at his seat, at Walbeck, in Nottinghamshire, of a bruise he received by a fall from his horse, and left a great part of hi§ estate to his nephew, Thomas Hollis Pelham, who, in 1715, was created marquis and duke of JS ewcastle,* titles which became extinct at his death, in 1768. He was also duke of Newcastle under Lyiie, which title descend- ed to Henry Clinton, earl of Lincoln.^ * Magna Brit, vol. iii. p. 6il. f Camd, Brit. Gou^h'b £d. vol, ii. p. aio. vol. iii. 253. 109 SEATS IN THE PARISHES OF NEWCASTLE. Jesmond, an antient village, once in high celebrity for its holy well, and the shrine of St. Mary in the chapel there,* is in the parish of St. Andrews. It appertained to the barony of Ga.ugy in the time of Henry Ill.f It was the residence of Adam de Athol in 1383 J A third of this manor, and of the advow- son of the church, belonged to John Strindlyn, in 3 390§ Sir Robert Stotte came to live here, in 1765; and his mansion-house, called Stotie's Hall, stands on the east side of the village. Sir Francis Anderson, knight, and others, sold possessions here, in 1669, to William Coulson, whose descendants had a residence upon them, till 1808, when they were pur- chased by John Anderson, Esq. of Newcastle, by whom Jesmond House is now inhabited. Heaton Hall, in All Saint's parish, is pleasant- ly situated upon the steep and woody banks of Ouse- burn, and is the seat of M. W. Ridley, Esq. whose father, sir M. W. Ridley, bart. from designs by New- ton, faced it with stone, and added the towers at each end. It was originally built of brick, in 17 13, and intended for convenience rather than pleasure, being at that time in the centre of several large collieries that belonged to the family j| There is a traditional account that king John made Heaton one of the places of his retreat. Robert de Gaugy was greatly in the confidence of that monarch, K * See p. 19. f Testa de Nevill, p 382. J See p. z6« § Escheats, 14, Ric, ii, 5 yniv, Magaa, vol xxxi. p. Si. 110 SEATS IN THE PARISHES &C, and this ville was held of his barony. Ruins here of an old building, fortified on the north, still carry the name of king John's palace/f- Near Heaton, on an elevated situation, is the a.n- tient village of Byker, which, with its park, was held of the king, by Nicholas de Byker, in grand ser- jeancy in 1234.J Robert de Byker died, seized of two parts of Byker and Pampedon, 15th Edw. I. The Percys had it in Henry the Sixth's time; and Edward IV. granted it to his brother Clarence. Sir John Lawson held it in I067, in whose family it has ever since continued. Fenham, in St. John's parish, belonged to the knights Templars, and, with the rest of their property, was granted by parliament, in 1324, to the knights Hospitallars of St. John of Jerusalem. It was annex- ed to the crown at the dissolution ; but, afterwards came to the Riddels of Swinburn Castle, Thomas Riddel obtained an act of parliament to sell it to John Ord, attorney-at-law, in Newcastle : the mines in this sale were reserved ; but, in 1770, sold to the Ords, in whose family the estate still continues. From the east front of Fenham-Hall, is a fine open prospect of the river Tyne, to the haven of Shields, and the ruins of Tynemouth priory. Elswick, in St. John's parish, was one of the pos- sessions of Tynemouth priory. There were collieries f Bourne, p. 114. The manor of Heaton belonged to the Babbingtons, of Harnham, for many years. Sir Henry Bab- bington resided on it, in 1638 ; and a descendant of this family, in a low situation, recovered a share of Heaton colliery j ia 1706. { Testa de Nevil, p, 388, &ci GATESHEAD. Ill " at Heygrove, Westfeld and Gallow-flat," near Els- wick, in 1334. # Soon after the reformation, it was purchased by Wm, Jennison, Esq. whose family held it to the beginning of last century, when it was sold to the grandfather of its present possessor, John Hodg- son, Esq. who has lately rebuilt the house on an ele- gant and commodious plan. Its scite is high and bold, and the prospect from it over the busy scenes of the Tyne, and the line vale of Ravensworth, ren- ders it a very interesting situation. Richard de Benwell, held one part of the ville of Ben well, and Robert de Whitchester, and Henry de la Val the other, by service of each, a fourth part of a knight's fee of the barony of Bolbeck, in 3272.1* The Delavals had possessions here for some centuries. The Shaftoes of this place were a branch of the Ba- vington family : their mansion was joined to the old tower,! but has for several years been untenanted, and is now in ruins. GATESHEAD. Dr. Stukely supposes|| that Gateshead was a forti- fied place of the Romans, and says, he saw stones about it, the recipient parts of their hand-mills. When the New-street was made, an urn, containing a vast quantity of Roman copper coins, was discovered near the church gates. Camden, and other antiquaries, supposed that Gabro centum of the Notitia was here, an opinion sufficiently exploded by Horsley; K 2 • Tinmouth Chartulary, fol. 163. Brand. f Testa de Nevill, p, 383. Wallis' Northumb. ii. p. 174, I See p. %%. | iter B.oreale, p. 69. 112 GATESHEAD. though Dr. Stukely, after finding the place called Ad Capm Caput, by Bede, and seeing a goat's head used at it as a sign, found that Gabrocent«m, in British, signified goafs head, and therefore continued in Camden's opinion. It is, however, matter of some doubt where the Ad Caprje Caput of Bede was situated: His words are, u Adda autem erat frater Uttan, presby teri inlustris, et Abbatis monasterii quod vocatur Ad Caprae Caput ;" which Alfrid translates " Was se AddaUttan brother tbaes mseran msesse preostes and ab- budes thaer mynstres the is nemed JEt Ilregeheafde."* Simeon of Durham, speaking of the murder of bishop Walcher, says it happened at a place called Ad Caput Caprae,^ and in another place, calls it Gotesheved.J In Brompton it is Cattesse hevede.§ As gate signi- fies a street in antient and in the present vulgar lan- guage, some think that Gateshead means the head or end of the road, because a branch of Watliug-street ended here.[| Trinity Chapel was in existence between the years 11 QQ, and 1207, as appears by the following grant copied from the original in the vestry of Gateshead : " Hosmundus Jilt hamonis de Gatesheude om'ib; indentib; fy audientib; has lit fas tarn p'sentib; q'm faturis mVf. Sciatis me dedisse # co'cessisse fy hoc mea carta coyirmasse deo fy capelle s Ve fnitatis de • Smith's Bede, pp. I25>55*« f Historic Ang- col. 48. \ Ibid. col. arc § Historiae Ang. col. 997. || Brand, u 461. Hutch. Durh, ii, 453* GATESHEAD. 113 Gatesheud i* pura' fy p 9 petucH elemosina?n.p 9 salute a'i'e mee et parent u meor et heredu meor. nil. or acras terre culte i 9 harleia ad australem parte 9 p'piores nemori de bejichehelm de cultura scilicet qm accept i excdbium a d'no meo philippo d'i gra dunelmemi epo p hidkektan: liberas. solutas. qetas. ab orrii seruitio et comuetudine fy exac endas de me et heredib; meis libere fy q 9 ete fy honorifice. sicuti aliq 9 eccVia itl capella arfolc liberi 9 . q 9 eti 9 fy hono? jficenti' elemosinam tenet. Testib; d"n 9 o pet\ de Gatesh'. Thoma capelVo. RanuJfo cap 9 Wo. Ric p 9 sana de hortu. Ric 9 hoisun. lamb 9 to flam. Girardo filio Geue. Riginaldo de len. Edmundo tail. 39 Seal remaining, indorsed u Land in Harlaw given to the Chantry of St. Trinity." In 1226, Baldwin gave to God and the Hospital of St. Trinity, in the borough of Gateshead, and to Gerard, the son of Geve its procurator, and to the rest of the brethren there, a farm, at Kyoe, near Lan- chester. This and two other contemporary grants are given by Mr Brand from the originals. Nicholas Farnham, bishop of Durham, in 1248, because its brethren, by reason of their poverty, neither led a se- cular nor a religious life, united this house with trie hospital of St. Edmund ; and, amongst the numerous charters in Gateshead vestry, respecting this institu- tion, one, dated Ap. 28, 1485, calls it " the chantry of the Holy Trinity in the hospital of St. EdmunS the Confessor." The Hospital of St. Edmund the Con- fessor and St. Cuthbert was founded in, k 3 114 GATESHEAD. 1248, by bishop Farnham, and by him endowed with the whole village of Ulkistan ; the old lordship of Gateshead ; the wood of Benchelm, containing forty- three acres, and lying between the arable land of St. Trinity, and the road leading to Farnacres; and with twenty-nine acres of escheated land in Ahires-acyres. By the confirmation charter, it was to consist of four chaplains or priests \ one of them to be master, and cat at the same table, and sleep in the same chamber with his three brethren, and pay each of them £0s. a year. It had a clear revenue of 181. a year, in 1292. In bishop Skirlaw's time it is called " the hospital of St. Edmund the king," # and is said to have consisted of " brethren, sisters, and paupers ;"-f and, in 1448, bishop Neville appropriated it, with its revenues, to the convent of St. Bartholomew, in Newcastle, by the name of " the hospital of St, Ednuuid. the bishop :" This grant was made on account of a fire that had happened in the nunnery, and misfortunes which Lad reduced them to great distress, and in con- sideration of their finding two priests to officiate in the chapel here. In 1544, it had a clear yearly revenue of " ?!• 7s. 9d. which doctor Beilasses now master of the same hath towards hys lyvying, and giveth out of the same four marks by the year to a prieste to say masse there twyse in the weke for the commoditie and easement of the parishioners that do dwelle farr from the parish churche. ,? J After the dissolution, it remained in the hands of the crown ; but masters were regularly appointed to it. Robert Claxton suc- • Hutch. Durh. vol, I. p. 457« f Brand, i. 471. J Brand, i, 475. GATESHEAD* H5 ceeded Dr. Bellasses, and from him the principal farm of the hospital derives its present appellation. " The Hospitalle of St. Edmund/' says an au- thority in the Augmentation Office, " standeth about halfe a myle distant from the parishe churche of Gatishedde;" it is opposite to the Hexham road end. How long St. Trinity Chapel existed before the grant to it, in the episcopacy of Philip of Pictavia, we have no account. Bishop Farnham, in the charter that united these institutions, says : " We confirm to St. Edmund and the four chaplains, in the chspel we have built at Gateshead, &c." words which suffici- ently prove, that each of the hospitals had, at that time, its own chapel ; but the expressions, " I give to the House of St. Trinity, and St. Edmund, in Gateshead, half, &c. ,?# and " Thomas Denom, chap- lain and guardian of the chantry of St. Trinity, in the hospital of St. Edmund the Confessor, inGateshead,"f strongly indicate that the original chapel of St. Trinity had fallen into disuse after the union of the hospitals. The ruined chapel that remains is of that kind of ar- chitecture which began to prevail in Henry the third's reign. " The west end of it is handsomely ornament- ed with a number of pointed arches and niches, though the inside seems remarkably plain. Some steps, at the east end, leading to the altar, are still remainiao* ; near them is a grave-stone, on which is cut a cross, similar to that in the jamb" (architrave) " of the church door at Jarrow : it has also the marks of an inlaid border about it, but the brass is gone. Th« * Deed, dated 1316. Brand, i. 470. f Grig, deed, in Gatesh. vest, dated 14X5* 116 GATESHEAD. arches of the windows (except those at the east and west ends which are entirely pointed (are round with- in and pointed without."* It consists of one aisle about twenty-five yards long, and six and-a-half yards broad. Dr. Smith, in his edition of Bede, printed in 1722, says, no vestige remains of the monastery of Uttan. Of a more recent one, we see a very beauti- ful chapel, scarcely as yet fallen into ruins. Its lead- en roof was taken off about fifty years ago. The low, square, stone gate-way, ornamented with fluted pilasters, which stands before this chapel, was the entrance to Mr Riddle's mansion-house, which, with a chapel within it, on account of the family be- ing Rbman Catholics, was wantonly set on fire, Jan. 28, 1746, by the populace in Gateshead, as the late duke of Cumberland passed through this town to meet the rebel army. This house appears to have been built out of the offices of the monastery (as it is of a style , of architecture which did not prevail till after the dissolution. At present, it is quite in ruins. The ancestors of the Riddles of Swinburne-Castle and Cheeseburne-Grange were many years seated at it, and in their time it was called GATESHEAD-HousEe William Riddle in 1569 was lessee under the crown of coal-mines " cum les water-pyttes in campis de Gateshed/'J The whole of these premises, however, passed out of this family to the Claverings of Callaley, about the middle of last century, and of them were purchased by the late Mr Barras, of Gateshead, who sold them to the Ellisons of Hebbum-Hall. * Grose* Durham. f Jones' Index to Records* &c. vol. iu suh GafaM GATESHEAIK 117 The charters of the " Hospital or free chappel of St. Edmund* king and martyr" being lost, and per- sons being endeavouring to convert its property to their own use, James I. Jan. 4, 1610, refounded it, by the name of " King James Hospital, in Gateshead " By this charter, it should consist of a master, the rector of Gateshead for the time being, and three poor, unmarried men of advanced age, who should form a body politic in law, have a common seal, power to plead, and sue and be sued, and to let leases of ten years. The bishop of Durham to have power to revise the antient statutes, to make new ones, provide for the due celebration of divine wor- ship in its chapel, and to appoint the masters. The three brethren to be appointed by the master, and to have each Si. 6s. 8d. for their support during the life of the first master; and, after his death, the suceed- ing masters to have a full third of its annual profits, and the two other to go to the maintenance of the brethren. In the 51 Geo. III. an act passed to en- able the master and brethren to grant leases of their property, in parcels not comprizing more than an acre, and for terms not exceeding ninety-nine years, and to enable the bishop of Durham to make statutes and ordinances for its government, and augment the num- ber of its brethren, so that the revenues of the present master and brethren may not be abridged. By the schedule annexed to this act, ks present amioal rents from lands and mines amount to 455L; the lands pay tythes to Gateshead church, but are let tythe free. The scite of this institution is on the east side of the high-way, about a mile south of the bridge. " In the 118 GATESHEAD. year 1731, " says Brand, "in the Chapel-garth was. a chapel, wherein duty was performed by the master, with a dove-cote, stables and other conveniences, and three houses for the bedemen, wherein they lived at that time. They have now an allowance to procure themselves lodg- ings, for grass at present covers the sites of the houses of the master and brethren." Between the years 1733 and 1769, # a custom obtained of preaching a sermon at the parish church, in lieu of performing divine ser- vice here, and since that time the old chapel has been disused. The New Chapel of St. Edmund's was consecrated Aug. 7 } 1810; and its burial ground, Aug. 7, 1811. St* Mary's Church. — According to tradition, the * ecclesiola' in which bishop Walcher was mur- dered, stood in the field on the north-east side of the rectory, once called Lawless-Close, and afterwards the Miller's-Field.^ The present edifice, dedicated to St. Mary, is of uncertain origin: its founda- tion and endowment are in the Cotton library, but rendered illegible by the fire which mutilated and de- stroyed so many valuable records in that collection. In 1291, it is mentioned as being at that time, worth 13l. 6s. 8d. a year. The shape and hewing of its stones prove that it has been built out of the ruins of some Roman edifice. In 17 19> an old brass seal was * In this year, Rector Wood " obliged bis predecessors widow and adminstratrix to pay him 300L for the delapida- tions of this hospital, on which he executed to her a general release." Brand, i. 47°« f Brand, u 484. Bourne, 168, GATESHEAD. 119 dug up, under a third pavement, in Carlisle, with this inscription: " S/ Beate Marie deGathesevid;" and in the Augmentation-Office, there is a will dated at Gateshead, in 1427> with a beautiful fragment of a seal of this church, and of which the annexed is a copy .J The Steeple of it was rebuilt, in 1740: It had eight bells in it in Bourne's time : The four spires at each corner were taken down in 1764, and the roof altered. Its pezvs and furniture are neat. Though the registers have a few gaps in them, they are in fine preservation from their commencement in 1559. The vestry-books have also been minutely kept, and well preserved : In one of them is a copy of a letter dated Whitehall, Tuesday 22d June, 1658, by which the twenty-four of Gateshead, because they were thought unfit to. hold any public trust, and to have power of quelling profaneness and other crimes, was dissolved, and a new one appointed in its stead, by his Highness and council. There were four chantries in this church. Se- veral deeds remain in the vestry, which mention the chantry of St. Mary in the north porch of Gateshead church. By one of these it appears that this institu- tion existed some years before the foundation charter-)- was granted in 1330, by Alan, son of Roger Prestre, and " Allan, called Prestre of Gateshead j M for one i Brand, vol. ii. plate of seals, No. 2, p. 184. t Sec it in Bourne, p. 306. 120 GATESHEAD* of these Alan Prestres was chaplain and guardian of its altar in 1523, and in 131 1, he is called " Alauuus dictus Prestre capellanus de Gatesheued." The com- munity of Gateshead were patrons. At the suppres- sion, it was worth 75s. 4d. a year. " The chauntrie of the Trinitie in Gatished was founded by one Alan Prestore by reporte, but no dedeof foundacion is shewed — yerelie value 4l.4s. 2d " By a deed in the vestry, dated in 1330, Alan Prestre, f capellanus de Gatesheued* granted to Isabella Striuolyne a tenement in Gateshead, to be held by the annual payment of two shillings to the altar of St. Mary, in the north porch of St. Mary's in Gates- head, and of eighteen- pence to the altar of St. Trinity in the body of the said church. St. Johns chantry appears to have been founded by John Dolphamby of Gateshead, about the year 1421, in which year he granted fourteen tenements in Gateshead to it. Conan Barton, of Sadbury, Esquire, was its patron in 1496* There was no deed of foundation to be shewed in 1545, when its yearly value was 61. 12s. 8d. St. Loys chantry was also founded by John Dol- phamby, about 1442, and had Conan Barton, of Sad- bury, Esquire, for its patron. Both these persons' names occur in grants in the vestry, but neither the chantry of St. John, nor of St. Loy, are mentioned, Richard Jackson, appears to have been its last incum- bent, and to have had, in 1553, a pension of Si. a year. It is not mentioned in the Augmentation-office certificate of colleges and chantries for this county and Northumberland, in 1545 e GATESHEAD. 121 Meeting Houses. — George Fox, the apostle of the Quakers, in his journal says: " we could not have a publick meeting" among the people of New- castle, but " we got a little meeting among friends and friendly people at the Gateside; where a meeting is continued to this day, in the name of Jesus/' The place, here alluded to, was in Pipewell-gate, in the house which has for many years been a tavern, with the sign of the Fountain. The Presbyterian meeting- house in the Half-moon-lane, was opened Jan. 1, 1786, and is in communion with the church of Scot- land. After Gateshead-house was burnt by the mob, in the last rebellion, the Roman Catholics removed from the chapel there, to one in the Close, in Newcastle. Dr. Theophilus Pickering, Jan. 9; 1701, founded a free school for all the children of the parish of Gateshead, in the A N c h o r a g e* adjoining the church, and endowed it with three hundred pounds, appoint- ing the rector of Gateshead, patron, and enjoining the master to teach Greek and Latin, writing, arithmetic and navigation : — also to read every morning a chap- ter of the bible, and a prescribed form of prayer in the school, and to end in the evening with a chapter, a prayer, and with singing a psalm ; and to attend morning and evening prayers with all his pupils, every school-day, at Gateshead church, Hauxley Stephen- son, and his brother Thomas, each left 40s, a year to this institution. New School. — The idea of commencing a school in this town, on the improved system of edu- L • Dues for Anchorage in the Tyuc vere paid here, till the claim vai lost in a mx at law. 122 GATESHEAD. cation, was first started in the beginning of the year 1808, and was proposed in a letter to Dr. Prosser, then rector of the parish; but, as the Doctor was soon after removed to the archdeaconry of Durham, some delay occurred in executing the plan. Mr Ellison, of Hebburn, offered the parish the beautiful ruin of St. Edmund's Chapel, on a lease of ninety- nine years, at half-a-crown a year, and his w r orkmen calculated the expence of repairing and fitting it up, at 4001.; but, as the dwelling-houses and chapel of King James' Hospital had so long reposed in neglect and ruins, it was proposed that a new edifice should be built to answer the double purpose of a chapel for that institution, and a school for the education of the poor. This proposal was, with difficulty, agreed to. While the new edifice was building, the subscribers to the institution hired a room, in which upwards of two hundred and fifty scholars were educating, partly on the Madras, and partly on the Lancastrian method. The edifice cost 13311. 12s. of which 6991. 18s. was raised by donations;— 631. 8s. by a charity sermon preached at Gateshead church, by Dr. Bell, the father of the system ; — 3001. by loans, to be repaid with interest in ten years; — and 3691. Is. 8d. remains yet to be paid. The annual subscription for support- ing the system, in 1800, was 1271. 6s. 6d.; and, in 1809, 1051. 14s. 6d. Six hundred and three boys had been admitted into the school from its com- mencement, Sept. 5, 1808, to Jan. 19, 1811. The new building was finished and in use, Aug. 7, 1808. The Alms House is on the east-side of the main street, and has this inscription cut in stone in its front; GATESHEAD. 123 " Tliis Alms House, built at the charge of Thomas Powell, late of Newcastle, who by his last will and testament, did leave and bequeath all his estate, real and personal, towards the purchasing and building the said house, and appointed Charles Jurdon, George Surtets, William Stephenson, trustees, 1731." At present it is occupied as the Poor House for the parish. Privileges. — Philip of Pictavia, bishop of Dur- ham, coufirmed to the burgesses of this town, liberty offorestage in Gateshead Park; the same burgage liberty that the burgesses of Newcastle enjoyed, and all the usual customs they had till then possessed in the € Saltewellmedowe', as was contained in the charter of his predecessor Hugh of happy memory . # In 1553, this town was by act of parliament annexed to Newcastle; in the next year the act was revoked; and in 1555, bishop Skirlaw granted the Saltwell- meadows to the corporation of Newcastle, on a lease of four hundred, and fifty years, and at £l. 4s. a year, as also all the tolls of Gateshead, at 4l. 6s, a year. Bishop Barnes gave a seventy-nine year's lease of the manors of Gateshead and Whickham, to queen Eliza- beth, who, in the next year, consigned it to the cor- poration of Newcastle; and, after many changes, on its reversion to the see of Durham, in 1716, the Park and manor of Gateshead were granted on a twenty- one year's lease, renewable every year, at the yearly rent of 2351. lis. 4d. to William Coatsworth, Esq. from whom they descended to Cuthbert Ellison, Esq. the present lessee. • Charter in the Vestry. 124 GATESHEAD. Freehold Borough lands*— There is no clear evidence concerning the manner this borough became possessed of its Freehold property. In 1.351, we find it holding of its own right the " Wyndemylnehiil, Lang-flat and Stone-flat;" and, in 1563, it contended with Matthew White, gentle- man, and " Margaret Sutton, the mother," concern- ing certain common- rights in his estates of Redheugh and Haerlaw. Cows were stinted in these pastures, May 18, 1607, at fourteen-pence a head. Of late years they have been enclosed with strong thorn fences, and much improved, Each resident borough-holder has right of pasture upon them for one milch cow. Gateshead Fell^ contains about six hundred acres. The bishop of Durham, as lord of the ma- nor, is seized of the soil and royalties, and the borough- holders and certain other freeholders in the parish of Gateshead, 'by antient usage, have right of common upon it. The cottages here were held by the pay- * Apud Brauncepith p'mo die Maij, A°. Elizabeth Reginse Jertio In the matter in contraversye between the Bailife, Burgesses and other thinhabitants of Gatesyde for the usage of com- mon of pasture within the fields of the same : It is ordered by the hon'able Henry, Earle of Westm'land, the L. Eury and Mr Skynner, Deane of Duresme, that the said common of pas- ture shalbe used and occupied according to one decree, made by the L. president and counsel of the north part, bearing date the xxvth of August, in the thirty and one yerc of the reigne of our late sov'ayne Lord King Henry the Eighth, untill such tyme as the same shalbe otherwise ordered by the L. Presi- dent and councell that now is. H. Westmerland, William Eure, R. Skynner. f William the Conqueror gained a decisive victory over the army of Edgar Etheling, Malcolm king of Scotland, and cer- tain Danish pirates, on Gateshead Fell, in 1068, and after that recovered Newcastle, and laid it in ashe«. GATESHEAD. 125 ment of small annual rents, in equal moieties, to each of these parties: but, as many of them were ill-built, and afforded asylums for gangs of beggars and vaga- bonds, to the annoyance of the neighbourhood, unci the increase of the poor rates of this parish, an act of Parliament was procured, in 1808, empowering com- missioners to divide the common, to pull down the cottages prejudicial to the divison, and to sell all the rest, their respective tenants having liberty to dispose of their materials, and to have the option of purchas- ing at the commissioners valuation. An act also passed in the same sessions for making this district a distinct and separate rectory and parish of itself ; and for building a church upon it, for which, and the expences of the act, a sum not exceeding 10001. should be raised by rates upon the occupiers of lands, houses, mines and quarries, within the dis- trict, at the expiration of seven years from the passing of the act. Foresters appear to have been appointed by the bishop in regular succession. Roger de Tickhill, who held that office in 1348, had an allowance of three halfpence a day, and the same wages were con- tinued from that time, to 1438, when the " Park- keeper" had a halfpenny a day added to his salary for the " custody of the tower" of Gateshead, with other profits, and a robe, or 8s. in lieu of it, every Christmas day, This town was governed by a Bailiff, a patentee officer under the bishops of Durham. The names of several persons who filled this office, occur as witness- es to charters in the vestry, from 1316 to 1020, whet* h c 3 126 GATESKEAfr. it was held by sir Thomas Riddel, knight. The borough petitioned the bishop to appoint them a new one, in 1772, setting forth that since the death of Robert Delaval, whose patent was dated in 1681, that officer had been discontinued, and that they had still in their possession a seal in- scribed, as in the annexed copy* The bishop referred the matter to his Attorney General; but as yet no bailiff has been appointed. The Steward of this borough sat in its courts, with the bailiff, in 1&14. By the parish books and other records it appears the church- wardens managed the stinting of the Benchehelm grounds, and Gateshead Fell, in the seventeenth cen- tury, but that these, and the other concerns of the borough have, since the beginning of the last century, been managed by two Stewards and four Grassmen. Courts. — We find the Bailiff of Gateshead hold- ing a court in this town, in 1415; and, in 1614, a head-court of the corporation of Newcastle, was held here before Thomas Riddell, Esq. bailiff, and George Nicholson, steward. Lord Crewe's lease to Mr Coats worth, comprises the right of holding a Halmote- court, &c. in the manor of Gateshead, which of late years has been annually kept, by Mr Ellison's direc- tion, under the presidency of Mr Clayton, town-clerk of Newcastle. The neighbouring magistrates also hold a petty sessions every Saturday in thek room, in the Goat-Inn. Corporation. — Tobias Matthew, bishop of Duiham, granted a charter for the incorporation of GATESHEAD. ]£7 several trades in this town, in 1594 ; and, in 1446, the inhabitants seem to have exerted their endeavour to convert their borough into a corporation. Bishop Cousins, in 1661, incorporated, at their own request, the drapers, taylors, mercers, hardwaremen, coopers, and chandlers, of Gateshead; and, in 1726, the churchwardens of Gateshead, granted a lease of twen- ty-one years, of a house on the west side of the church-yard, as a meeting-house for the companies of dyers, fullers, blacksmiths, locksmiths, cutlers, joiners, and carpenters. All these companies at present are extinct. This town at present is badly supplied with water. In 1615, Robert Ellison, of Newcastle, merchant, let certain springs on Gateshead Fell, which had for- merly run to the Heworth Mills, in trust for the peo- ple of Gateshead, for forty-one years, at 6s. 8d. a year ; # but since these springs were, by act of parlia- ment, granted to the town of Newcastle, no reserva tion being made for public fountains in Gateshead, the community have suffered great inconvenience. Pipe-well-gate and Pipe-entry, have their names from conduits, which lead into them from springs in the field adjoining Mrs Barras' house. A conduit also formerly came from the head of the Half-moon-lane, to the main-street. There was, also, a well, under a large oak, at the head of Oakwellgate, in which street, three strata of pavement have been discovered,*}* The Toll-booth stood in the main-street, a lit- tle below the west end of Oakwellgate- chare. In 1700, it was used as a school-room, but afterwards ♦ Original lease# « f Brand, i, 48a, 128 GATESHEAD. converted into a Bridewell, and taken down when the Lock-upJiouse was built at the head of the church- stairs. In a suit at York, in 1577, between Richard Natrass and the town of Newcastle, respecting a free Market and Fair in Gateshead, witnesses depos- ed that they had seen a market or fair held twice a week, on Tuesdays and Fridays, when wheat, bigg, and cattle, used to be exposed to sale, about a cross, between the toll-booth and the pant or conduit; and beans, peas, oatmeal, and other goods, and merchan- dise sold at the " Brige-yate." The Post-Office was established in 1772, and at first intended to be only temporary during the re- building of Tyne-bridge ; but as it was found a great convenience to the town and neighbourhood, it has since been made permanent, The Population between the years 16Q0 and 1700, was computed at seven thousand persons. In 1801, it amounted to eight thousand five hundred and ninety-seven, and, in 1811, to eight thousand seven hundred and eighty-two. Prior to the year 1745, the great post-road came down St. Mark's lane, and entered Gateshead at the Half-mcon-lane. In that year, six feet of earth was taken off the old Bottle-bank, the rock opened above the west end of Oakwellgate-chare, and the pm- fold, which stood in the middle of the street, opposite to the Five-wand-mill, removed to the WindmillhilK The New-Street was made in 1790. St. Ellin s street is mentioned in 1324, and the Palace-Place, sup- posed to have been a residence of the bishop of Pur- GATESHEAD. 129 ham, in 1614. There is a house called king Johns Palace, at the head of Oakwellgate. The loyal sir John Cole had his gardens and residence between the main-street and Oakwellgate. His mansion was afterwards tenanted by Henry Jenkins, Esq of Barnes, in the county of Durham, In 1762, it was convert- ed into a manufactory of broad-cloths; and of late years has been occupied by Messrs Macleod, as a porter brewery, It had been splendidly furnished, as appeared by a chimney-piece in an upper room, which was finely ornamented with scripture histories, &c. carved in oak. About the year 1278, it was customary for the king of Scotland, the Archbishop of York, the prior of T)nemouth, the bishop of Durham, and Gilbert de ■Umfranville, by their bailiffs, to meet the justices coming to Newcastle, to hold pleas, and to ask their liberties of them, at the head of Gateshead, at a cer- tain well there, called the Chille-welL A large con- course of gentlemen with the sheriff of Northumber- land, to this day, annually meet the judges of the northern circuit, at a place on Gateshead Fell, called the Sheriff's-hill. Redheugh, about the year 1440, was held, in capite, of the bishop of Durham, by a family of its own name, with whom it continued till their name was extinct in coheiresses. In 1563, it was the pos- session of " Matthew White, gentleman, and his mother, Margaret Sutton/' and before that had be- longed to his brother Anthony, and his father Wil- liam. It was purchased by Dr. Askew of Newcastle, and a,t present is the summer residence of his grand- 130 COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. son, Adam Askew, Esq. patentee high sheriff for the county of Durham. " Saltwellside-Gbange" belonged to John Hedworih, Esq in 1595. It was purchased of the Liddles, of Moor house, near Carlisle, by Joseph Dunn, Esq. who resides at it, and has much improv- ed its appearance, Gateshead Park. — In 1350, John Gategang died, seized of a tenement of thirty-three acres, in the parish of Gateshead, called the Old Park; and, in 1365, Sibilla, widow of Gilbert Gategang, held the Park of Gateshead, by paying a pound cf pepper. The mansion-house was built by Mr Coaisworth, and at present is the property of Cuthbert Ellison, Esq. of Hebburn-Hail, and the residence of his sisters the Misses Ellison. COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. Felling-Hall was the seat of Thomas Surtees, Esq. in 1331, who had free warren in his manor. In 1605, it belonged to Robert Brandling, Esq. who held it of the dean and chapter of Durham, by military service:* this family resided here, till Gosforth-house was built, and since that time this seat has been occu- pied by the agents of their colliery here. Heworth is the name of a chapelry under Jar- row, and contained in 1801, two thousand eight hun- dred and eighty-seven inhabitants, and in 1811, two thousand nine hundred and five. The lands of Upper and Nether Heworth were given to the monastery of Jarrow, prior to the conquest.^ The prior of Dur- » Hutch, Durh. vol. ii. p. 480. f Ibid, p. 481. COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. 131 ham had a park and free warren here, in 1248; and at present the lands are all lease-hold, under the dean and chapter of Durham. Wardley stands about two hundred yards north of the Roman way, called Raking-dike, which runs between Lanchester and South-Shields. At present it consists of a farm-house, surrounded with a deep, broad ditch, forming an oblong square, and enclosing about four acres. He b burn-Hall. — In the time of Henry I. " Heberine" had three fisheries belonging to it, call- ed "Peth-yare, Sywyne~yare,Uthward-yare." # North and South Htbburn belonged to the monastery of Jarrow, till the dissolution. The old mansion-house was built in the manner of the border towers, and was the residence of Robert Hodslion, Esq. who died Sept. 15th, 1624, aged 68, and afterwards of his son sir Robert. In 1656, " Mr Clavering, and Adam Shephardson, was to contrive a way from the Colepitts about two miles from the castle, under ground, into the castle of Tinmouth, for to relieve the enemy with provisions, if need required : And for that purpose, there was great store of provision laid in, and to be laid in Hebburn-House : And that there was eighty firelocks, and a great number of stilettoes laid into Fellon-House."*j- Soon after this time it was purchas- ed by the family of its presen^possessor, Cuthbert Ellison, Esq. The mansion-house was much en- larged about twenty years since, and great improve- ments have been lately made by planting belts and • Brand's Newc. vol. i. p. 6. t Thurloe's State Papers, vol, v. p. 57*, 132 COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. clumps of wood in the grounds, and throwing the high- road between Newcastle and South-Shields, on the north side of the house* That Jabrow was either a fortress or village dur- ing some part of the time that the Romans inhabited Britain, is evident from the discovery of two inscrip- tions here, during the rebuilding of the church, in DIFFVSIS 1783. The first of them is on PROVINC a tablet such as were usually BRITANNA-AD put up in the fronts of temples VTRVMQVE and other public buildings, and EXERCiTVS is read by Brand, in this man- ner : " Diffusis provinciis in Britannia ad utrumque ostium exercitus posuit : i* e. The army erected this on the extension of the Roman dominion in Britain, from the western to the eastern sea." The other is OMNiVM FIL on the fragment of an altar, HADR much mutilated. Ithaspro- ANI GI SS FIAT bably been erected pro salute VATIS of all the adopted sons of SIT.... Hadrian. But besides these, two square pavements of Roman brick were discover- ed, when the course of the road was altered near the east end of Jarrow Row, and foundations of build- ings, bearing all the marks of Roman masonry, have frequently been found in the fields, on the north side of the church. Taking advantage here, as they usually did in other places, of a Roman ruin, the Saxons began to build a church, which, according to an inscription still preserv- ed in it, was dedicated to St. Paul, April £3, 685. It was consolidated with the monastery of Monkwere- COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. 133 mouth, the foundations of which were laid in 674, and the joint institution, called the monastery of St. Perer and St. Paul. This place, by Bede, and succeeding writers, is called Gvrwy or Gyrvy, which is the Saxon name for a marsh. The isle of Ely was called South-Girwa, and the Saxon root, Gyr, modernized into Car, is, to this day, applied to the fens of Durham and Northum- berland.- King Egfrid granted the ground to build the edifices of this institution upon, and endowed it with fony hides of land. 5 * It was founded by St. Benedict, and is first Abbot was Ceolfrid, who obtained for it, from King Altnd, ei^ht hides of land, near the river Fresca, which were afterwards exchanged for twenty hides, w hich laid more contiguous to trie monastery in the village of Sambuee.-f' Under the auspices of Ceolfrid and Benedict there were near six hundred monks in these two houses. St. Bede, who is said to have been born at Monckton,J a village a mile west of this place, received the rudiments of his education here, and at Hxham; and, takiug the tonsure, spent the remainder of his life in great piety and unwearied application to letters in this house. He was the best divine and historian of his time. His works were numerous, and those of them that are extant were published in one volume folio, at Cambri Ige, in 1722, with notes and a large appendix, by Ih John Smith, prebendary of Durham. He died May 26, 735, and was u buried here," says Tuigot, " in a porch built to his Louoi on the north side u£ the church; where M • Bsedat Hi&t. Abb, UUirem. & Gyr p. 395. f lb. 3^g. \ Hailing. Chrou. v. 1. p. 154, 134 COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. to this day is shewn a little stone mansion in which he was wont to sit, and meditate, and read, and write/* About the year 1020, Elfred, a priest of Durham, and a famous collector of the remains of saints, stole the body of St. Bede, and carried it to Durham, where it was honourably deposited in the same coffin with St. Cuthbert. Concerning this celebrated cha- racter, almost all that is known is given in Smith's appendix to his works. There is a holy vcell > near Monckton, which still bears the name of this saint, and in which persons, yet alive, remember to have seen great numbers of infirm and diseased children dipped in expectation of their being restored to health: A large concourse of people also used to resort to it on Midsummer eve, with bone-fires, music, dancing, and other rural sports, but these customs have been many years discontinued. The monastery of Jarrow was frequently plundered and burnt by the Danes. It had, however, the hon- our of affording the first asylum to the restorers of the monastic life in the Northumbrian provinces ; # and was presented with the monastery of Tynemouth, and the body of St Oswin, by Earl Waltheof : but, in 1083, Karilepho, bishop of Durham, made it and its sister at Wearmouth, cells of the convent of Durham, in which stale it continued till the dissolution, wl.en, according to Speed, it was worth 40i. a year, a sum at which it had been valued, in 1291. • Sec before at page 3. COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. 135 BASILICA HUJUS The church was re- VETUST1SSIM.E built, in 1783, when PARS OCCIDENT A LIS this inscription was RESTAURATA EST placed in the west ANNO, 1783. end of its porch. The chancel and tower remain in the same state as they were in at the dissolution. One of the bells is inscribed SANCTE PAULE ORAPRO NOBIS, and concerning it, Brand observes u it is doubtless the one that was placed at the first in the church of the monastery. It has two fleurs de lis on it, which sufficiently intimate in what country they were cast." # Speaking of Wearmouth, Bede says, that Benedict brought vessels for the altar, and the robes out of foreign countries, and his masons and glassmakers from France .f That the fleurs de lis were in the arms of that country, before this time, is evident from the ac- count of the fabulous banner sent from heaven to Clovis, the first christian monarch of France.^ In the vestry here, is still remaining the celebrated chair of St. Bede. || It is of rak, and of the rudest species of workmanship. The legs and seat appear very antient ; but the boards on the back are modern. Numerous virtues are attributed to it, particularly that of assist- ing fecundity, on which account brides are often insiahed in it immediately after marriage : many a fair pilgrim, too, has borne away pieces of this won- M 2 • Hist, of Newc. v. ii. p. 49. f Smith's £d p 295 I See Edmondson's Cornp. Bod of Heraldry, v. 1, p. 3. |J See a drawing of it in the Anticj. Rep, vol. ii. p. 163. 136 COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. der-working relic* to place them under her pillow, confident that the man she dreams of, under so power- ful a charm, is destined to be her husband. The remains of the monastery are few at present, having suffered much, within the last century, from the hands of rapacity and civilized barbarians. Short Saxon columns and Saxon tombs are scattered a- ?RERC3vTI'» T^. k° ut on * ts sc ^ te * At the recto- fE'SVERE *• %1S r ^ c ^ -^) ton * s x ^ s fragment of an J&C RVCE^'tif j ||jl inscription, taken hence by Brand ; E lilt and which evidently relates to u Huaeberctus," who was abbot here, and contem- porary with Bede. But this inscription, which is placed over the arch of the tower, be* tween the nave and 1DEDICO10BASILIEKE SCI PAVLi VMKLMAI SCLFKfblABBEIVSEtlaHhe most valuable .Q'KLeS DOAVCTORtSUtemry curiositv re- ( C0Nt)lTORISrANMOIH]lmaining here." h was in the north wall of the old church. Leland quotes an uncertain author at Whitby Abbey, who speaks of it in this manner: " Inscriptio ibidem re- perta in quadiato saxo majusculis Uteris Komanis sculpta :- — i Dedicatio Basilic se S. Pauli viiii calendis Maij, anno xv° Ecfridi regis. Oolfridi abbatis ejus- dem. q. m ecclesiae de«> autore conditoris anno iiii.' " # " I translate it" says Brand u as follows, taking in the two QQ'S. — The dedication of the church of St, Paul on the 9th of the kalends of May, in the J 5th * X^el, Coi. vol. iv. p. 4$. COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. 137 year of king Egfrid, and the fourth of Ceolfird, abbot, and, under God, the founder of the said church/' Lord Eure of Witton Castle, Durham, obtained a royal grant of the possessions of this house, which was dated Jan. 6, 1535: At present, the Impropria- tion is in different lay hands: great part of the old endowments, in 1083, went to the church of Dur- ham, which still holds them. The population of this parish, exclusive of the two chapelries, was, in 1811, three thousand one hundred and ninety three; and inclusive of them, twenty-one thousand four hundred and sixty- eight. That South Shields was a fort or station of the Romans, is evident from the antiquities found at it, on a hill, at the entrance into the harbour, called the Lawe, which is a Saxon term applied to fortified places, as well as to tombs, and conical hills. No light has been thrown upon its Roman name: the Ad Tinam of Richard is at Fordun in Scotland. " Va- rious Roman coins, broken inscriptions, and the re- mams of a Hypocaust or Sudatory were dug up here, hi 1798 : a slight drawing of the latter is in the pos- session of Nicholas Fairies, Esq. of this town, as well as some fragments of the building, and several Roman coins, particulaily a small gold one, in very high pre- servation, of M. Aurelius Antoninus."* There is alsor an altar, in the Durham library, found here, in the beginning of last century ; and another engraved in the Philosophical Transactions,*)- and Bourne's New- m 3 ? Beaut, of Eng. and Wales, vol, v. p. 158* t No. 146, 138 COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. castle, # and read thus by Horsley : " Dm matribus pro salute imperatoris Marci Aurelii Antonini Au- gusli pit f etuis. .♦... lubens merito ob redituJ'f The original is carved on the sides and back with sa- crificing instruments. It has probably been erected on account of the safe arrival here of one of the em- perors, from some coasting voyage. It was sent to Norwich, and is supposed to be lost. Some other altars were built up in a quay. Mr Gougb thought that the two inscriptions found at Tynemouth had been taken from this place; a conjecture entirely groundless. A road branched from Watling-street, and coming through Braneepeth-park, over Durham-mc or, and Harbmss-moor, and passing Lumley Castle, a mile east of Chester-le- street, without any appearance of communication with it ; went in a direct line to South- Shields. There was an elevated Roman pavement at the high end of this town, a^d another on the n rth- side of the river, near the Waifs-end. Raking or Meken-dyke was a high cast of earth, in few places visible at present, that came from Lanchester to a fort at Stanley, thence past Causey Hall, over Blackburn Fell, to Kibbles worth, Laratsiy, Ay ton-banks, and down Leam-tane to this place. Its name is probably Saxon, meaniiig the road in a straight line* Ralph Higdtn, m his Poiychromcon, says that a Reken-dyke passed from the w T est ol England to Tynemouth. South Shields, like its sister on the north side of the Tyne, has rapidly increased in opulence and size since the teeth of the charter laws began to be broken, * P. 17& t Brit, Rom. p. *8/, COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. 139 Its population, with that of Westoe, Harton, and the out farms, as far as J arrow bridge, in 1801, amount- ed to twelve thousand nine hundred and nine: In 1811, the same district contained fifteen thousand three hundred and seventy. The church is dedicated to St. Hilda. In 1402, Hemmingburg, prior of Durham, committed to the care of its chaplain the inhabitants of Les Sheels, Harton, and Wiveston, with a moiety of fees and oblations, certain fish called St. Hilde-fish, and a mark a year from the master oi Jar- row. The edifice having grown with the in* rease of population here, no trace of the old chapel has, for many years, been observable. In 1810 and 181 1 it was altogether rebuilt, except the steeple, the south and west walls, and part ui the east wall: a single roof was thrown over the whole structure, the pillars taken away, and the pews of the galleries, and the ground rLor all new fitted u;>: the expence of this amounted to upwards of 4,0001. Here are seven Dissenting Meeting Houses; the most important of which is that of the Methodists, which was opened Feb 26, 1809, cost 3,800h, and is capable of hold- ing one thousand seven hundred persons. Bishcp Trevor, in 1770, granted a Market to be weekly held here on Wednesdays; ana, two years after, annual Fairs, on June 24th, aud S< p. 1st; but none of these have flourished much. The Matket-place is a spa- cious square, in the centre of which stands the Town* Hall, where the neighbouring magistrates hold Feity Sessions on the first Wednesday alter the Quarter Sessions at Durham, and regularly after that on the same day, once a fortnight, throughout the year : in 140 COTTVTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. this also should be held, twice a year, under the au- thority of the Dean and Chapter of Durham, who are lords of the manor, Court Leet, and Court Baron, the former for making presentments, &c. and the lat- ter for recovery of small debts. In this town are not less than thirty Benefit Societies for affording relief to sick members, orphans, families of impressed seamen, persons in captivitv, and annuities to widows* There are several Public Schools, in one of which Joseph Bulmer, Esq. of Laygate, gives education to thirty boys, and clothes them, once a year, at his own ex- pence. Measures have been taken for approaching parliament, in the next sessions, with a bill for estab- lishing a watch or police here, and lighting and other- wise improving the town. On the Law Bank facing, the sea, is a guard home, and a battery of four guns, con- cerning which Whitelock, in his memorials, says : the Scotch under general Lesley, in 1644, u took a great fort over against Tinmouth, which commands all ships coming in or going out of Newcastle, and five pieces of ordnance, arms, powder, and some prisoners, and lost but nine men." Heie are large manufactories for all sorts of glass* The Salt trade, that in the beginning of the last century, was carried on by several of the most opulent families in the neighbourhood, and employed about two hundred large iron pans, is at present confin- ed to four or five pans: but this loss is well repaid by the rapid increase of other trades. Eighty years ago South Shields had only four ships belonging to it : now it is said to have five hundred ; besides twelve dry docks, several of them double, and a great many COUKTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. 141 building yards.* Concerning the Mill Dam, Mr Smeaton observes : " it is a place that, if the trade requires it, may be properly converted into a wet dock, that would hold a great number of ships: the corporation of Newcastle leas^ it as a ballast shore, and are industriously employed in filling it up. * The Life Boat owed its origin to a society of gentlemen, be-* longing this town, who held their meetings at the Law House. Inconsequence of the melancholy loss of the Adventure, of Newcastle, in 1789, tv they called a met ting of the inhabitants of South Shields, at which a committee was- appointed, and pre- miums were offered for plans of a Boat, which should be the best calculated to brave the dangers of the sea, particularly of broken water. Many proposals were presented; but the pre- ference was unanimously given to ]VIr Greathead's. who was immediately directed to build a boat at the expence of the com- mittee." The utility of the new vessel was first experienced Jan. 30, 1790, when it put to sea for the ' glorious purpose of rescuing some unfortunate mariners, who were the sport of the tempest in the effing; a number of cork jacket* being provided for the crew, in cave their boat disappointed the expectations of the inventor, and failed in it- object: but the precaution was urn ece^sary; floating like a feather upon the water, it rode triumphantly over every raging surge, ar.d smiled at the hor- rors of the storm. 'I he wreck wa> approached in spite of the elements; a. id the wretched crew, equv.'iy affected with astonMiment and extacy. beheld the Life huat (never wa> name more happily imagined or more appropriately bestowed) alo .g- sic e of their shattered vessel, and offering retuge fn m ihe tre- mendous aby-s, that was opening to swallow them up for ever. Restored to life and hojve, they were removed and conveyed to land, to the unspeakable joy of the benevolent proprietors of the plan; who had thus the douh'e gratification of ^eei.)g that the Vessel wa- calculated 10 answer its intention 10 the com- pletes! manner, and of re cuing, at the same time, seveiai lei- low creauin* from inevitable de truction "* As this u etui invei tion is now known in almost all the maritime parts of the globe, a description 01 its principles would be needless here. Mr Great head has been rewarded with 1200I voted to him by the hou-e of Commons; and been honoured with a meoaiiion from the Humane ociety; with a diamond ring from the Em- press of Russia; and with other marks of distinction for the share he hau. in its invention • See Letter to R, JBurdou, Esq. from the Rev, W. Turner. 142 COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. Westoe is a handsome and respectable village, a mile south of South Shields. Bishop Walcher when he re founded the monastery of Jarrow endowed it with " the village of Gyrvv and its appendants, name- ly : Preostun, Munnecatun, Heath wrthe, Heabyrun, Wivestun and Heortedun.* Mars don, i. e. Sea-hill, lies three miles south of South Shields, and is remarkable for its bold shores, and the fanciful forms into which its rocks have been washed by the sea. The parts detached fr *m the main land are still covered with their antient verdure, and are rude resemblances of towers, pillars, and arches. One of them, greater than the rest, is sup- ported by numerous columns, and its southern limb forms a high and wide arch, through which the waves, in high seas, are tremendously grand. They are composed of different strata of limestone : that which is of a chalky nature, is, in many places, formed into regular ranges of Saxon pilasters, with capitals of va- rious forms and sizes. The lock upon the tops of the hills is composed of stellated, semi-crystalized limestone, exceedingly curious. Bold EN is the name of a parish, in which are the villages of East and fVeat Bolden ; in the latter of which stands the parish church, a neat edifice 'of old founda- tion, and architecture, but much '» modernized. The Bolden Buke had its name from its frequent mention of services in this manor, in which were thirty-two villains, each of whom held two novates of land, con- taining thirty acres, under the severe tenure oi labuur- * Sim. Dun. col. 24* COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. 143 ing three days in each week, excepting the weeks of Easter and Pentecost, and thirteen days at Christmas ; besides making various payments. Whitburn parish lies on the sea shore, between the parishes of Monkwearmouth and Jarrow. The church is an old Gothic eoitice, at present under re- pair. The village is neat and much frequented in the bathing season. Here is the residence of lady Wil- liamson, relict of the late sir Hedworth Williamson* Several Roman copper coins were discovered at this place, most of them Constaiitines, one of Maxentius, two of Licinius, and several of Maximianus. St. Bega founded a monasterv at Monkwear- mouth. After her, Benedict Biscop, the father of the benedictines, in 674, under the patronage of king Egfrid, founded and built, at this place, the monastery of St. Peter; afterwards consolidated with Jarrow. He had his masons out ot France, whence also he brought glassmakers, artificers till then unknown in Brit in, to glaze the windows of the church and mo- nastery Before that time windows in England were latticed, or made of linen cloth, stretched over wooden frames. After its devastation by the Danes, it was again laid in ruius by the Scots in 1070. Its history is joined with that of Jarrow till the dissolution, when its annual value was 261. 9s. 9d. The town of Monk- wearmouth contained, in 1801, 5342 inhabitants; and Moukwearmouth-shore 4239- Shi} -building, and its dependant branches afford the chief employment of the place. On Fulwell hills in this pariah, in 1?59> two Roman coins, an urn of unbaked clay, and the skeleton ot a man, nine ieet and a hair long, were 144 COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. discovered in a sloping ridge of limestone rubbish, twenty five yards long, a yard and a half high, and six yards broad at its top. The tibia of the skeleton were twenty seven inches long, the head lay to the west, defended by four large flat stones, and the coins were near the right hand. Hylton Castle is a building of considerable grandeur, and was the seat of the Hylton family from the time of king Ahelstan to 1746, when John the last male heir died, leaving his estate to sir Richard Musgrave of Hay ton Castle, Cumberland. In 1758 it was purchased by Mrs Bowes of Gib^ide, and at present belongs to the earl of Strathmore After be- ing shut up and neglected for a long time, it was let to Mr Temple of J arrow, who repaired it, and the domestic chapel, and resided in it a few years. In 14o0 a it consisted of a hall, four chambers, a chapel, two bams, a kitchen, and a house called the Gate- house/' which exactly answers to the center of the present building. Its battlements are finished with human statues, and its corners with circular tur- rets. The large additions were made in the seven- teenth century, and much of the estate alienated for the purpose. The whole edifice is scattered over with the arms of the Hyltons, and the families they have allied with. At Hayton Castle there is a manu- script account of the antient possessors or this seat, in which it is observed that many of them were re- markable for their iearnin and piety ; but those that have figured in arms are almost innumerable : " Since the time of the Conqueror, one of them was slain at Feversham, in Kent; one in Normandy; one at COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. 145 Menlz, in France ; three in the Holy Wars, under Richard the first ; one in the same, under Edward the first ; three at the battle of Bourdeaux, under the Black Prince ; one at Agincourt ; two at Berwick upon Tweed, against the Scots; five at Market Bosworth ; and four at Flodden Field.'** Sunderland. — Bede says he was born in the territory of the monastery of Uiuraemuda and Ingyr- vium, which the Saxon translation renders : J fas io accened on mndorlande thces ylcan mynstres % where some manuscripts read rumorland i. e. privileged dis- trict. This town is noted as a borough in the Bolden Buke ; and bishop Pudsey's charter, 1 154, is addressed u Burgensibus nostris de Weremue" and has in it these words, De Burgo de Werernue, alias JVeremouth, modo Sunderland juxta mare, which passages indicate it was a borough or privileged place before that time. Neither Leland nor Camden mention it, because its name was involved in Weremouth. Bishop Morton, in 1634, incorporated the burgesses and inhabitants, by the title of mayor, twelve aldermen, and common- alty of the borough of Sunderland, and granted a market and annual fairs ; but, in the distraction of succeeding times, the charter was suffered to expire. This town, however, was of inconsiderable importance till the last age, in which it has increased much in size, commerce and wealth. In 1 80 1 , it contained 1 2,4 1 2, inhabitants. Its chief trade is in coal : but it also ex- ports lime, glass, and grindstones. Upwards of 300,000 Newcastle chaldrons of coals are annually shipped here, and about 500 keels employed in con* N • Hutch. Durham, y, ii. p. 150. 146 COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. veying them down the river. The mouth of the har- bour has been greatly improved of late years by pro- tecting it with piers. The parish was separated from Bishopwearmouth, in 17 1 9- The church is spacious and underwent large repairs, in 1 7 35. An elegant Chapel of Ease was built, about 1770, under the patronage of John Thornhill, Esq. The principal Methodist Meeting was opened in 1753. Here is a Jews Syna- gogue, and Meeting-houses for Presbyterians, Baptists, Quakers, Independents, &c. A Charity School for girls was founded in 1770, and since that a blue coat school for boys. The Humane Society commenced, in 1790; the Dispensary, in 1794; and the Sub" scription Library y in 1795, though the edifice for it was not erected till IbOl. Here also are a large Assembly Room and a Theatre, two Banks, and Bar* Tacks sufficiently large for eighteen hundred men, in* dependent of officers. But the chief glory of this town is the Iro n Bridge begun in ] 793, and finish- ed in 1796- It owed its origin to Rowland Burdon, esq. who with the assistance of Mr Thomas Wilson, engineer, invented, and obtained a patent for the plan on which it was constructed. It cost 27,0001, The arch is the segment of a circle, about 444 feet ia diameter, and is £36 feet eight inches in its chord, or span ; it is formed by six ribs, each consisting of 105 blocks which butt on each other in the same manner as the voussoirs of a stone arch. The spring of the arch is only 34 feet; and the spandrils filled up by iron circles, placed upon ribs, and gradually di- minishing from the abutments to the centre : these support the platform which is of wood, covered with COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. 147 gravel in the middle and free-stone foot-paths on the sides. In this structure was employed 46 tons of malleable, and 214 of cast iron. The centre of the arch is nearly 100 feet high at low water. Bishopwearmouth, in 1801, contained 6126 inhabitants. It was called in king Athelstan's time " the delightful villa of South Weremouth." The church was rebuilt a few years since : Hutchinson sup- posed it almost as old as Athelstan's time. " The rec- tor of this parish, for the time being, is Lord of the Manor, and holds his courts, the customs and copy- holds of which are of the same nature as those of the bishops of Durham/'* Near the church is an Almshouse for twelve poor men or women, founded in 1727 ; and a similar house on Wearmouth Green was built and endowed, in 1725, for other twelve poor men or women. Houghton-le-Spring is a pleasant village, re- markable for the hospitality and exemplary life of its primitive rector., Bernard Gilpin, called the Apostle of the uorih, from his unwearied labour in spreading the gospel amongst the barbarous people of the Scotch and English borders. His memory is still preserved here by a good tree-school and hospital of his founda- tion. In the church is his monument inscribed : BERNERD OBIT QUA • GILPIN RE RTO DIEM CTOR HV ARTII AN JVS ECCLLE DOM. 1585. The church is neat, is in the form of a cross, and has its tower rising from its centre. The rectory is N 2 Hutch, v.ii, p. 514. 148 COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES* very opulent ; and the village remarkably neat and healthy. Penshaw i. e, woody-hill, is a village situated near a hill of its own name, and has a chapel, under Hough ton-le-Spring, built in 1754. That Chester-le-street was a station of the Romans is implied in its name, and evident from the coins and antiquities that have been found in its church-yard, and neighbourhood. The Saxons call- ed it Cunceastre and Cuneagester, under which name it was the see of a bishop forty-three years. Bishop Beck made its church collegiate, with an establish- ment of a Dean, seven prebendaries, five chaplains, three deacons, &c. in which state it continued till the dissolution, when its revenues, estimated in the reign of Edward I. at 1461. 13s. 4d. were only valued at 77l. 12s. 8d. The church is a handsome stone edi- fice, with an octagonal spire, one hundred and fifty-six feet high, and one of the finest in the north of Eng- land. In its north side are a series of monuments, with effigies of the deceased ancestry of the noble family of Lutnley. The village, being on the great post road, and contiguous to several extensive col- lieries, has increased in size of late years. In 1801, it contained one thousand six hundred and sixty-two inhabitants. This is one of the bishop's copyhold manors, and is of extensive jurisdiction. It gives name to the ward, and has a coroner : there was also, antiently, a forester here. Lumley Castle, one of the seats of the earl of Scarborough, stands proudly on elevated ground, tufted with forest trees, and gradually sloping, on the COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. 149 south and west, to the river Wear. It forms a quad- rangle, with an area at its centre : at each corner are projecting, octangular turrets, with machicolations overhanging their base. The south front, though modern, is partly in the castellated style; but, on the east, the projecting gateway, guarded by turrets, and a machicolated gallery, and bearing six shields deeply engraven in stone and charged with the arms of sir Ralph Lumley, a contemporary of Richard II.— this with the three stones of mullioned windows, grated with iron, and the narrow terrace, guarded by a cur- tain, that runs along the brink of a precipice, affords a grand model * of the taste of antient times, and, in truth, has a most august appearance. As both royal and episcopal licences were obtained by sir Ralph, in 1339, to repair and embattle this house, it is sup- posed that the first structure was raised by his prede- cessor, Robert, in the reign of Edward I. The great hall is ninety feet long, and has a gallery for min- strelsy : in it is a picture of a knight in full armour; also portraits of seventeen of the most distinguished members of the family, beginning with Liulphus, a nobleman of the court of Edward the Confessor, and ending with George Lumley, who was put to death for treason, in 1537. Most of the furniture, except the family pictures, was sold, in 1785; and some of these at the death of the late Earl. The first resi- dence of the Lumleys was at the village of Lumley, a mile south of the castle where are remains of a very old house : and also an hospital founded by sir John Duck, bart. for twelve poor w^meu and a chaplain.* n 3 * Pennant, 319, 3*6, Hutch, ii, 41 &• 150 COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. Lambton Hall was formerly called Harraton Hall, and was the seat and estate of the D'Arcys, who conveyed it to the Hedworths, the last male of whose line died, in 1688, leaving two daughters, co- heiresses, the elder of whom married Ralph Lambton, Esq. of Lambton Hall y on the opposite bank of the Wear. The moiety of the younger, who married sir William Williamson, baronet, was purchased by the X-ambtons, in 1714. The Hall is a modern building, by Bononi. The approach to it is by a large flat bottomed boat, from the south side of the river, which is delightfully clothed with hanging woods. There is a current tradition that an enormous worm or serpent, which infested the river near this spot, was killed by one of the Lambtons, by means of a coat of razors; and a broken statue is pointed out by the vulgar, as proof of this tale. A conical eminence in the ground here is said to have been its den ; but there &re no records of any event, on which this fable could be founded. Ravensworth-Castle — In the oldest records concerning them, the village here is written Raffen* swarth and the castle Raffemhelm, the first signifying the estate, the second the fortress of RafFen, who was probably some Danish possessor of them. Bishop "Flambard granted this, and other manors, to his nephew Richard, to be held by homage and knight's service. In bishop Hatfield's time, from 1345 to 1382, mention occurs of " the lady of Ravenswarth" and " Elianora, countess of Ravenshelm," about which period this property belonged to a branch of the Lumley family, with whom it continued till their Country seats and villages. i5t heiress married sir Henry Boynton, whose only daugh- ter married sir Henry Gascoyn, of whose descendant, sir William Gascoyn, the manors of Ravensworth, Lamesly, and Eighton, were purchased, in 1607, by Thomas Liddell, Esq. ancestor of sir Thomas Henry Liddell, bai t. their present possessor. The old castle was pulled down in 1808, and is now rebuilding on a beautiful gothic plan, by Nash. Near Ravensworth Castle is a Stone Column, concerning which there is a tradition, that it was one of the Crosses erected to hold markets at, during the great plague at Newcastle, in 1635. The produce of the country, at that time, was not allowed to be exposed to sale, at a less distance than three miles from the town. The pedestal of one of these crosses remains on the Sunderlaud road edge, a little east of the third mile-stone, and the cross in Long-Benton is said to be of the same date, Lanchester was supposed by Camden to be the Longovicum of the Notitia Imperii, and by Horsley to be the Glanoventa of the tenth iter of Antonine; but the conjecture of the latter being destitute of all good criticism, we shall rest in the opinion of the father of English antiquaries, till either the Epiacum of Ptolomy or the Lineojugla of the Anonymous writer of Ravenna be proved to have been here. Within the last century, and in the memory of persons yet alive, the whole scite of the Roman station here was over- grown with thorns, brambles, and hazels; and though its irregular ruins have for several years been levelled, and its area and suhurbs laid under agriculture, yet it still exhibits one of the most conspicuous remains of a Roman fortress remaining at present in south 152 COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. Britain. Its form is a parallelogram ; the length of the vallum or wall, from east to west, being one hun- dred and eighty-three yards, and its breadth, from north to south, one hundred and forty-three yards. The three following altars appear to have beea Saade either in the reign of Severus or Caracalla* PIO TFLTITIANIS- V-S-LL * M Brit. ¥vt{ crurv^ws Titos ^>^ccag Tmcwos Xi/UKgjgog. Kom. p. <293. JEsculapio Titus Flavins Titianus tribunis votum solvit libentissime merito. Ibid. The stone bearing these inscriptions was discovered by Horsley. Contrary to the general mode, it is in- scribed both on the back and front A Roman au- thor, speaking of Britain, says it K was clara Gnecis et nostris monu- ^^ mentis: but this and " the famous £%> altars at Corbridge," dedicated to Hercules and Astarte,are "the on- ly instances of the Greek character used in such inscriptions iir Britain." Ibid. Jovi optimo maximo vexillatio cohortis Varduloram civium JBo- manorim eyuitum mill, v. s, L COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. 15$ NVM.AVG KT. GEN. COH. II. VARDVLLORVM. C.R.EQ. * bVB.AN. TISTIO. ADVEN Numeni Augusti it genio cokortis secunda Vaidullorum civium Ro- manorum equitum mill, sub AntUtio Advento, TO.LEG.AVG.PRPR. Legato Augusti propm- F.TITIANVS. TRIB. tore, F. Titianm tribunus # # # R dat dedicatque rite. All these altars appear to be oi the same date, from the mention of either the tribune Titianus or the Var- dulians. This Titianus might possibly be the same as one, that was Procurator of Alexandria, and whom Caracalla put to death with one of his favorites called Theocritus. The Varduli were a people of Spain, and are men- tioned by Mela, 1. hi. c. 1. and Pliny, 1. v. c. £9. Their names are also found in three inscriptions, be- longing to Rochester in Northumberland, one of which is dedicated to M. AVRELIVS SEVERVS ANTONINVS; and another to the God of the Sun for the health and the safety of the emperor M. AVRELIVS ANTONINVS. They appear to have been a part of the twentieth legion, which, from the following inscription, as well as from those be- longing to Gordiai/s time, was either wholly or in part occasionally quartered here. 154 COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES, The principal buildings, within the walls, were the armamentaria and principia, the rebuilding of which is recorded on a stone, bearing the following inscription, and now in the Dean and Chapter's library in Dur- ham. IMP. CJESAR. M. ANTONIVS GORDIANVS. P. F. AVG. PRINCIPIA. ET. ARM AMEN TARIA. CONLAPSA. RESTITV IT. PER. MECILIVM. FVSCVM. LEG. AVG PRPR. CVRANTE. M. AVR. QVIRINO. PR. COH. i. L. GOR. When Gordian was emperor, and M. Fuscus lieutenant governor of Britain, these barracks and magazines, which had fallen into decay 7 were re* paired by A. Quirinus, prefect of the first cohort of the Gordian legion. The infantry, which composed a Roman legion Were of four kinds, called velites, bastali, principes and triarii. The principia included the repository of the eagles, and the quarters of the principes. The ar* mamentaria were military depots, or magazines for arms. Dr. Hunter and Mr Gale first published their re- marks on this, and the following inscription, in the philosophical transactions for a. d. 1717. IMP. C2ES. M. ANT. GORDIA NUS. P. F. AUG. BALNEUM. CUM. BASILICA. E. SOLO. INSTRUXIT. PER EGN. LUCILIANUM. LEG. AUG. PRPR, CURANTE. M. AUR. QUIRINO. PR. COH, I L. GOR. COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES* 155 The emperor Gordian, by his legate Egnatius Lucilianus, and under the inspection of A. Quiri- nus y prefect of the first cohort of the Gordian le* gion, built this bath and basilic. The only room of the bath whose dimensions could he as- certained, was about four yards J square. Its walls were plaster- ed with a substance similar to its flooring, and this altar was found at its east end. Fortunes Augmti sacrum Publius Mlius Atticus prafectus ~=r~^ votu>n solvit libentissime merio Hutch. Durh. vol it. pg. 360. This and the three preceding monuments are in the Dean and Chapters library, in Durham. C. N. IMP. M. ANT. Ccesari nostro imperatori GORDIANO Marco Antonio Gordiano, pio, PIO FELICI. feliciy augusto. AVG. GENIO. PRAETORL Genio Pratori Clau* CL. EPAPHRODITVS. dius EpaphroditusClau- CLA V DI AN VS. dianm tribunus cohortis TRIBVNVS. COH. secunda Lingonum ro- ll, LING, V.Lt P.M. turn libensposuitmerito. 156 COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. DEO Deo Silvano Marcus Di- SILVANO dius provinciate beneficiarim MARCVS DIDIVS corisulis. v. s 11. m. PROVINCIALIS Similiar dedications to the BF. COS. silvan god have frequently VS. LL. M. been met with ii i this country. Vide Reinesii Syntag.pgg. 138, 141, 148. Gough's Camd. vol. iii. pgg. 117, 159. ^ & 11 V ill # # Cohortis octavce centu* ^OFPIFROCVIt ria QPF Proculi. This was found last year, as were also two altars of little note, and two rude sculptures, all at FoRDj the seat of W. T. Greenwell, Esq. Bishop Beck, in 1283, made Lanchester Church collegiate for a Dean with two assistant vicars ; ar*d for seven prebendaries, the three first each to find a vicar chaplain, at his own charge, and the other four a vicar in holy orders : the dean also to provide pro- per ministers for the several Chapels of Ease in the parish. Bertram Monboucher, in 1S89, held the manors of Tar>field, Beamish, and Cawsey. Tan field has a chapel at it, once dependant on Chester ; it is a neat new edifice : the mansion house was once the seat of the Dawson family, afterwards of the Davisons. COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. 157 Cawsey Hall has its name from the Raking Dike: it belongs to the Claverings. Beamish continued in the Monboucher family for several generations. After them it seems to have belonged to a Harbotell, and to have passed from the Hylton family by marriage of a coheiress to Morton Davison, esq. of Beamish. His family also failing in male issue, their large possessions went by the female line to sir John Eden, baronet. Beamish-hall stands in a warm sheltered vale, by the margin of the Team ; the grouuds around it have a bold, irregular feature, and the sides of the hills are clothed with young plantations of great ex- tent. Here is a park well stocked with deer. Over the deep and romantic dell of Cawsey-burne, near Tanfield, is a remarkable structure, called Tan- field Arch, built by the Grand Allies, in 1729, to obtain a level for the passage of coal waggons. The span of the arch is 103 feet: it springs from a- butments about nine feet high, and, being semicircular, the entire elevation is about sixty feet. It cost 12,0001. Its architect was Ralph Wood, a common mason, who having built a former arch of wood, that fell for want of weight, committed suicide, from a dread of this beautiful structure experiencing a similar fate. It is at present neglected and falling to ruins. Whickham, in the time of the Bolden Bake, had thirty-rive villain tenants belonging to its manor, each of whom held fifteen acres of land at l6d. rent, ex- elusive of services, which were severe. The church is antient, but no way remarkable. The village con- tains several very excellent houses, and commands an o 158 COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES* extensive and interesting prospect. East of it, about a quarter of a mile, is Dunstan Hill the delight- ful villa of John Carr, esq. It stands among ir- regular groves of forest trees, and overlooks a long reach of the Tyne, finely terminated by Newcastle Bridge. Gibs ide, a seat of the earl of Strathmore, was a possession of the Merleys, in the year 1385 ; in the reign of Henry VIII. Roger Blackiston, esq. and his wife Elizabeth, daughter and heiress of Richard Merley, had livery of it ; and, at the conclusion of the seventeenth century, sir William Bowes acquired it by marriage with the heiress of sir William Blackiston. The mansion has a sequestered scite on the southern bank of the Derwent. Among the pictures here, is one of Rubens' wife, whilst pregnant, in a fruit shop. The approach is through a wood of venerable oaks. In the grounds are ; a Banqueting House ; an Ionic Column, one hundred and twenty feet high, and sur- mounted by a colossal statue of Liberty ; and, at the end of a beautiful terrace, a Chapel of modern archi- tecture, having a fine dome and portico. The land- scape scenery in this neighbourhood is # xtremely rich. Mr Ambrose Crawley, about the year 1690, re- moved his iron works, which were then in infancy, from Sunderland to Winlaton, a place, at that time, consisting only of " a few deserted cottages/' Winla- ton corn mill, in the next year, was converted to his use, and the concern soon spread itself to Swalwell and other places in that neighbourhood. In J 705, a chapel, capable of holding three hundred persons, was built at Winlaton, for the use of the workmen. COUNT*Y SEATS AND VILLAGES, 159 Schools too were established, and a code of laws drawn up, which, in a great measure, have superseded the general law of the land, and become locally establish- ed. " To put these laws in execution, a court of arbitrators was constituted at Winlaton, to be holden every ten weeks, for hearing and determining case3 a- mong the workmen, to which all have an appeal. The fees are fixed beyond innovation, at a moderate rate. This institution has the most happy and ex- tensive use, as it quiets the differences of the people, protects their claims to justice in an easy and expedi- tious manner, preserves them from the expences and distress of the common law, and the noisome miseries of a prison.' # Winlaton, and Winlaton mill, in 180 1, contained three thousand and twenty-one inhabitants. The chief branches carried on here are the making and grinding edge-too!s, manufacturing files, and slit- ting bars of iron into nail rods. The works at Swal- well are on a greater scale : Anchors of the largest size, mooring chains, pumps and cylinders for steam engines, all kinds of cast metal utensils, and, in short, almost every form of which iron or steel is susceptible is produced in these works. Their principal con- sumption, besides Newcastle and the adjoining coun- try, is in London. The company have warehouses at Greenwich and in Thames Street, London, and con- stantly employ two vessels of three hundred tons bur- then each, in carrying their goods thither. Axw ell Park is the principal seat of sir Thomas Oavering, bart. whose ancestor, Serlo de Burgh, o 2 • Hutch. Dur, ii. p. 443. 360 COUNTKY SEATS AND VILLAGES, came into England with the conqueror. Edward I. gave them the surname of Clavering, from their barony in Essex. Tiiis mansion is an elegant building of Payne's architecture : it is surrounded by undulating ground, embellished with irregular groves of forest trees. Swalwell Bridge is a good object from its east front, which has also parts of the Tyne, Newcastle, and Gateshead in sight: from the south, the fine wood- lands of Gibside are very beautiful. The Claverings were first seated here in Queen Elizabeth's reign; and their mansion, called White-house, stood half a mile west of their present residence. Stella formerly belonged to St. Bartholomews, in Newcastle. The Hall, which is a large, venera- We structure, was built by the Tempests, of whom the Widdringtocs obtained it by marriage. At pre- sent it is a seat and occasional residence of John Townley, esq. Ryton is a village, delightfully seated on the southern banks of the Tyne, and contains several handsome buildings, inhabited by opulent families* The tower of the church is terminated by an octangular spire of frame-work covered with lead, rising to the height of one hundred and eight feet : it forms a good object from the river and many parts of the vale. On the north side of the church yard is a large barrow, twenty feet high, and covered with trees ; it has never been opened : but a similar one near Brad- ley Hall in this parish was, some twenty years since, found to contain a kistvaen, in which a human body had been interred. As the army of William Wallace marched down the north side of the Tyne, in 1297* COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. lGl the inhabitants of Ryton, thinking themselves securely defended by the depth of the river, provoked the Scots With such opprobrious language, that a party of them came over and plundered and burnt the tillage.* Bradley Hall was the seat of sir Francis Anderson, in 1685. It was purchased by the late J. Simpson, esq. ; was a few years since occupied by sir T. H. Liddell, bart. and at present by Thomas Wilkinson, esq. Prudhoe Castle was the capital seat of the barony of the Humfranvilles, into which they were enfeoffed by William the Conqueror. The Scots, in 1174, and 1244, besieged it in vain. The Tailboys family obtained it, after 1381, by marriage; but for- feited it at the battle of Hexham. The crown then granted it to the duke of Bedford ; and soon after to the Percys, its present possessors. It was tenant- ed in 1557 ;f but, in 1596, is called " an old ruinous castle." It stands, as its name implies, on a proud height; and, as the landscape around it is peculiarly excellent, its large extent, broken walls, and crumbling towers, at every point of view, make a fine appearance. Minster Acres, the seat of George Silvertop, esq. is surrounded with young plantations. The country around it, both in appearance and profit, owe much to the improvements made here by this family. Cor bridge was a borough of the Clavering family, and antiently sent members to Parliament. Tradition represents it as once having five churches j o 3 * Knighton inter x. Script, col. 2491. t Lodge's Must, of Brit, Hist, vol. i. p. »5* 162 COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. but at present, as in Henry I. time, it has only one r which has been built out of a Roman ruin. Near this town, in 1735, was found a silver table, finely embossed with heathen gods, and weighing one hun- dred and forty-eight ounces; and, in 1736, a silver cup, twenty ounces in weight, on which is the christian monogram. In the church yard here were found the two celebrated Greek altars: the first inscribed to Hercules, the second to Astarte, in the following hexameter verses: Ar^fTflS Ewjuoy pzo-woccs TlovXxzp /jc-'avcflwcs?* In the church yard also is a curious old tower. The town in Leland's time was much diminished; and in 1801, contained two hundred houses, and one thousand and seventy-two inhabitants. West of it, a short distance, may still be seen the traces of Corstopi* turn, a Roman city, at present called Corchester , the ruins of which king John turned o*er, in hopes of finding hidden treasure, but was disappointed. Op- posite to it, on each side of the Tyne, are vestiges of a Roman bridge. Aydon Castle is a large ruin, interestingly seat- ed on the brink of a precipice. Here is a large stable with an arched roof and stone mangers. The whole edifice has been girt with a strong outward wail. It belonged, in 1272, to a family of its own name; af- terwards to the Raymes of Bolam, and at present to sir W. Blackett, bart. Near it is Ay don House, the seat of B. W. Wastell, esq. Bywell was the capital seat of the barony of COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. l6S Hugh Baliol, and held by the service of five knight's fees to the crown, and of thirty to the ward of Newcastle, The earl of Westmoreland forfeited it, in 157 1 ; after which, it was purchased by the Fenwicks, the widow of the last of whom lately married the Rev. Septimus Hodgson, whose seat was built by Wm. Fenwick, esq,, about thirty years since, from designs by Payne, The town was once considerable, and had a great trade in iron work for the use of the border cavalry. It con- sisted of two parishes, the churches of which still re- main in use* At present it contains few inhabitants j but is in truth a charming place. The old castle of the Nevils; the piers of an antient bridge; the water fall over the Salmon-weir; a mill; two churches f Mr Hodgson's house; a few picturesque cottages;, and the finely wooded banks of the Tyne, all group together within a narrow compass. Ov ingham had a house for black Canons, found- ed by one of the Humfranvilles ot Prudhoe; its pos- sessions, after the dissolution, came to the Addison family ; and by marriage to the Bigges of Benton and Lindon House. This town has annual fairs, April 26, and Oct. £6 ; also a royal grant for a market. Its church is in the cathedral form, WylaMj in king John's time, was a manor of the priory of Tynemouth, and, in 1567, of the crown. John Blackett, esq. resided at Wylam Hall, in 1692; and at present it is the seat of Christopher Blackett, esq. Stamfordham, with Heugh, is a manor of Ralph Riddell, esq. The town is neatly built. In 104 COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES* the church is a cross-legged figure. The market cross was built by tir J, Swinburne, bart. in 1736; and the free school, founded and endowed with valuable landa at Heugh, by sir Thos. Widdungton, kiit. in 1663. In the lawn of the vicarage is a large and beautiful larch. The fain> here are on the second Thursday in April; and August 15, if a Thursday, if not, the Thursday after. Cheeseburne Grange was a possession of the church of Hexharn: In 1567, it belonged to Gawin Swinburne ; afterwards, to the renowned fa- mily of Widdriugton, from whom it passed by mar- riage to the grandfather of its present possessor, Ralph Riddell, esq. Close House was formerly a chapel and chan- try, founded by one of the Ratcliffes, and endowed with half the manor of Houghton. The family of its founder sold it to Reed, in 1560; and, in 1620, Reed sold it to Robert Bewicke, esq. an alderman of Newcastle, and ancestor of Calverley Bewicke, esq. the present proprietor of this delightful residence. Heddon-on-The-wall was a manor of the barony of the Bolbecks, who gave its church to the Abbey of Blancheland : part of the chancel here is in the Saxon style. In 1752, a wooden box, full of Roman coins and fresh medals, was found in the Roman wall at this place. Each wick Hall is the seat of Ralph Spear- man, esq. This manor w as given to Hexham pri- ory by the Delavals of Seaton, about the year 1130. After the dissolution, the Hall was the seat of Roger COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. 165 Fenwick, esq. from whose family it went by an heir- ess to Ralph Scourfield, esq* ; and from him to John Bell, esq. whose eldest daughter, in 1748, married George Spearman, esq. father of the present owner. New burn e, properly Newborough, was given by king John to the Claverings of Waikworth, and in his reign was a place of importance, and enjoyed many exemptions and privileges. It was given to the Percys by Edward III. In the church are tombs of the Delavals. This place is remarkable for the mur- der of Copsi, earl of Northumberland ; and for the defeat of the king's forces, under lord Conway, by the Scots, under general Lesley, August 25, 1640. At present it is a populous village, chiefly of note on account of its early gardens. Denton was a manor of Tynemouth priory, and aftewards belonged to the Errington family. By the death of John Rogers, about the year 1758. Denton Hall descended to Edward Montague, esq. grandson of the first earl of Sanwicfa, who left his large property to his v» idow, the able and elegant defender of Shake- speare against Voltaire. She died in 1800, leaving her property to her nephew, Matthew Robinson, now Matthew Montague, esq. There seems to have formerly been a chapel and a burial ground here. North and South Dissington were estates of the Delavals soon after the conquest. The latter still continues in the family ; but the former was sold by admiral Delaval to the Collingw oods, from whom it descended to Walter Spencer Stanhope, esq. of Cannon Hall, Yorkshire, its present possessor. The Hall is tenanted, at present, by general Ker. 166 COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. Wolsington, part of the possessions of Tyne-' mouth priory, became the residence of the Jennisons in Elizabeth's reign, if not sooner; the last of them sold it to James Dagnia, esq. of Cleadon Hall, in the county of Durham, a famous amateur painter ; who also sold it to Matthew Bell, a merchant in Newcastle, and ancestor of Matthew Bell, esq. its present proprietor. Ponteland means the water land of the PonL It was a member of the barony of Mitford ; and ap- pears to have had a castle at the time of the battle of Otterbourne. A peace between England and Scot- land was negociated here, in 1£44. The church is an antient structure, and was formerly collegiate. Here is a charity school, founded and well endowed by Mr Richard Coates, who died in 1719« North Milburne was a manor of the Mitford barony, and given by Simon de Divelston, to Hexham priory. After the dissolution, Milburne Grange be- came the seat of Bertram Anderson, and was by him conveyed to the Horsleys, its present owners. South Milburne was also a part of the Mitford barony. It belonged to Thomas Bates, of Halliwell, in 1567; whose descendant, Ralph Bates, esq. has lately erect- ed a curious and elegant mansion here, called Mil* bume House. Kirkley was also a manor of the Mitford barony ; and, for several generations, a seat of the Eures of Witton Castle, in the county of Durham. In latter times it has belonged to a branch of the Ogles, and at present is the residence of Nathaniel Ogie, esq. COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES, 167 "Prestwick Carr is near a hamlet of the same name by Pont- Eland. In summer it covers about ten acres, but much more in winter. In a very dry summer it had so little water, that many roots of trees were visible, and in some the marks of the axe were easy to be distinguished."* It abounds with pike, and is resorted to by great abundance of water fowl. South Gosforth, in the barony of Whalton, came to the Lisles, by maniage of the daughter of Richard Canvilie, m Henry the second's lime, and continued in their family in 15fi7, io which year, North Gos forth (that in Henry the third's time was the barony of " Richard Curtayse,"*}*) belonged to sir Robert Brandling, knight banneret. Soon ?f- ter the reformation this family resided at Alnwick Abbey, and for several descents were seated at Felling Hail, till the late Charles Brandling, esq. Irom de- signs of Payne, built Gosforth House, which at pre- sent is the principal seat of his son, C. W. Brandling, esq. one of the members in parliament for Newcastle upon Tyne. 'Pigg's Folly. At the Three Mile Bridge, by the side of the Morpeth road, is a curious Stone Pil- lar covered with texts of scripture, and erected by one Pigg. This man, says Bourne,* " in the time c f the Rebellion, took down a stately cross firm and com- plete, that stood at the end of Barras Bridge, before the chapel. He called it idolatry, and thought to make * Wallis' Northumb. i. 14. f Teste de Neviil, p 392 Villa Rad'i &up' Tayse. Rac 1 ' sup' Tay*>e tenet in capite de d'uo Rcge Goseford del Sura* p' dimid* feodu' de vet'i feoff' " Esch. i. Ed. i* * P. 1,53. See also Pennant's, North. Tour. 168 COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. his own use of it ; but it was broke by some who hated it should be prophaned. He was a rebel and a very great enthusiast, a monument of his whimsical head, is this pillar, which very deservedly to this day bears the name of Piggs Folly" Blagdon is the seat of sir Matthew White Rid- ley, baronet, one of the representatives in parliament for Newcastle upon Tyrie. It was purchased of the Fenwicks, by Matthew White, esq. of Newcastle, who built the mansion here, which his son Matthew, who was created a baronet in 1756, enlarged and beautified : at his decease this estate devolved upon his brother in law, Matthew Ridley, esq. of Heaton, the father of the present baronet. Cramlington was in the barony of Gaugy, and gave name to an antient family, long resident here. The Lawsons obtained it by marriage, and entailed it upon Mr Cardonnell, of Chirton, who has lately re- paired the family residence. In the chapel is a mar- ble slab, inscribed : " Orati pro anima Thomse Law- son, generosi qui obiit £do* die mensis Julii a. d. 1489* Cujus animus propitietur Deus." KiLLiNGWORTH was a manor of the Morpeth barony. The village stands on elevated ground. Here is the elegant mansion of H. U. Reay, esq. — also the seat of the late admiral Roddam, at present the resi- dence of the rev, R. H. Williamson. Backworth was one of the manors of Tynemouth priory. Since the dissolution, it has for many years been the residence of the ancestors of R. W. Grey, esq. its present owner. This seat was built from de- signs of Newton, COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. 16§ Long Benton descended from the barons of Morpeth to the present earl of Carlisle, who, in 1800, sold it to the Brandlings and Browns, the latter of which families has its seat at this place. The parish church stands at a short distance from the vil- lage: it belongs to Baliol College, Oxford; and had a chantry in it, dedicated to St, Mary. Little Benton, in Henry the Thirds time, was held under the baronies of Heron and Heppel. In 1282 it was the Lordship of the Scropes, of Mash- am, Yorkshire ; and since that time has had various possessors. Thomas Bigge, esq. obtained it by mar- riage with a coheiress of John Hindraarsh, esq about the year 1/30 ; and the two mansions here were built by his descendants. Benton House, which is of brick, has been lately sold to Mr Brown of Long Benton, and is at present occupied by his son-in-law, William Clarke, esq. Little Benton is the residence of Thomas Hanway Bigge, esq. Walls end is called by Camden pagula infre- quent; but at this time contains several excellent houses. Its Old Church stood very inconveniently upon the brow of a hill, and was approached by a very long flight of stairs. The New Church, by the side of the North Shields road, was built under au- thority of an act of parliament, and opened in 1809. In this paiish, opposite Jarrow, is How* don Pans, a populous village, having a dry dock, a ship-building yard, and a ropery. The village of Chirton is rendered remarkable for being the residence of " Ralph Gardiner, gent." author of that swtie and querulous stricture on the 170 COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. corporation of Newcastle, called " Englands Griev- ance Discovered, in Relation to the Coal Trade." Here also is the seat of John Collingwood, esq. which devolved upon him on the death of his brother, lord Colling wood. Also the seat of Adam Mansfield Lawson de Cardonnel, esq., author of " Picturesque Antiquities of Scotland :" it had for many generations been the residence of the Lawsons of Cramlington : and, on the death of the last of them, devolved, by will, on Mr Cardonnell, North Shields. The Prior of Tynemouth, in 1£92> had built a quay and twenty six houses here, which were tenanted by fishers, brew T ers and victuallers, rich enough to supply loading and provisions for one or two hundred ships ; but, at the suit of the corporation of Newcastle, all these erections were removed. Be- fore that time, the place consisted only of a few Shiels, a provincial name for hovels, inhabited by fishermen. This place, however, in the time of the common- wealth, was of importance enough to complain to His Highness and Council of the want of a market; and Cromwell had certainly complied with its request, had not the breaking up of parliament prevented him. The plague raged violently here, in 1635. The Church was consecrated, in 1668, and since that time has been much enlarged, and ornamented with a steeple, in which are six musical bells, which were presented to the parish by James Storey, esq. in 1788. The oldest part of the town is a long, narrow street on the brink of the river, and, in bustle and con- fusion, bears a strong resemblance to Wapping. The upper, or new town, is a creation of the latter part of COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. 171 last century ; and the improvements and enlargements in it have of late years been carried on in an extensive scale. Dockwray Square, a place of considerable neatness, is the most fashionable part of the town. The Theatre is of brick, small, but neat, and built about the year 1799. The Methodists of the Old and New Connection have each a Meeting Home here; as also have the Presbyterians, Independents, Quakers, Burghers, and the Roman Catholicks. A- mong the late improvements may be enumerated a Subscription Library; a Dispensary; Schools for the education of boys and girls, on the Lancastrian plan ; an elegant new r Inn, built by the duke of Northum- berland ; and a Market Place, also of his Grace's formation, one hundred and ten yards by seventy. This nobleman, in 1S04, gave licence for a weekly market to be held at North Shields, within his manor of Tynemouth, en Fridays ; and for annual fairs on the last Friday in Apul, and the first Friday in Novem- ber. In this town are also a spacious dry Dock, se- veral Ship-building yards, extensive Roperies, Salt- pans, &c. At the foot of it are two light-houses for the use of ships entering the harbour, main- tained by the Trinity House, in Newcastle: and near them Clifford's Fort, built in 1672 ; taken by the Scots, in 1G44; and which effectually commands all vessels entering the river. But the glory of North and South Shields is their harbour, about a mile and half in length; and in which two thousand ships may commodiously ride at anchor : in spring tides it has water sufficient for vessels of five hundred tons burthen. The shipping of this port, at present, are 272 COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. calculated at a thousand, whereof North Shields Is supposed to have three-sixths, South Shields two- sixths, and Newcastle the rest. Tynemoutpi is supposed to have been the scite of a Roman fortress, as two inscriptions, belonging to that people, were found at it in 1783 : one of them an altar, dedicated to Jupiter, by JElius Rufus, pre- fect of the fourth cohort of the Lingones ; the other is upon a tablet, such as were placed in the fronts of buildings, and is usually read : " Gyrum, cumbas, et templum fecit Caius Julius Maximiuus Leglonis sextse victricis ex voto." Edwine, king of Northumberland, about the year 625 y built a small chapel of wood here, in which his daughter, Rosella, took the veil. # His successor, St. Oswald, rebuilt it of stone. St. Mary's oratory was about this time a place of great celebrity for inter- ment. St. Oswin, king Edred, and Henry, hermit of Coquet Island, were buried here; as also, in suc- ceeding times, were Malcolm, king of Scotland, and his son, prince Edward. After the terrors of Danish invasion were over, Tosti, earl of Northumberland, rebuilt the monastery and church from the foundation. The new chapel of St. Mary occurs under the year 1336, about which time lord Henry Percy gave 100 marks, and above one thousand trees, towards the re- paration of the houses of the prior and convent. Parts of the walls and arches of Tostis edifice may be traced about the transept and nave of the church ; the architecture of which agrees with the time of Henry III. It was dissolved January 12, 1539; at which * Lei* col. vol, iv, torn, £££• p. 4*. COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. 173 time it was in possession of twenty-seven villas in Northumberland, estimated at 7061. 10s. 8 £d. a year. The church continued parochial till 1659, when its roof began to fall in ; and, as the parishioners were often debarred the liberty of a free resort to it in the civil wars, a new one at North Shields was commeno ed, in 1659, and consecrated by bishop Cousins, in 1668. Since that time this beautiful and magnificent structure has suffered greatly from the attacks of time and military barbarity, though enough of it still re- mains to shew its antient extent and grandeur. The little oratory of the Virgin, at the east end of the chancel, which, till of late years, was preserved in great perfection, has been converted into a magazine foi military stores, and has had its windows walled up. The cemetery continues to be used. Tynemouth Castle was two months besieged by William Rufus, during the defection of earl Mow- bray ;* and, in 1379> it is called " a certain fortified and walled place, to resist the malice of the enemies of the kingdom." In queen Elizabeth's time, its gar- rison consisted of a master and six inferior gunners ; and at that time, says Camden, it " gloried in a no- ble and strong castle, which, in the language of an old writer, ' is made inaccessible on the east and north side, by a rock over the ocean ; but, on the other sides, on ac- count of its lofty situation, is easily defended." It was garrisoned by the king's forces in 1642; but surren- dered in 1644, when thirty-eight pieces of ordnance and much provision and ammunition were found in it. Colonel Iilburne, its deputy governor, revolted in p 3 * See before, at p. 4, 174 COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. favour of the king, in 1648 ; but the place was storm- ed, its garrison put to the sword, and Lilbum's dead body decollated, and his head fixed upon a pole ! Af- ter long neglect, the batteries were repaired ; and the castle made a depot for arms and military stores in 1783. At present, there are few remains of the an- tient fortress, except the gateway, which has been much deformed by alterations. The salary of the governor of Tinmouth Castle is £841. per annum, that of the lieutenant governor 1731. On the north- east side of the castle is a light-house, for the direction of ships on the coast. It is a lofty building, has an oil light, and is considered one of the best light-houses on the coast. Close by the light-house is a battery of heavy ordnance, with mortars for shells for the de- fence of the shipping. The Village of Tynemouth is well built, and iducIi resorted to in the bathing season. Warm and cold baths have been lately constructed here, in the Prior's Haven. West of the village are Tynemouth Barracks, calculated to hold six hundred men, ex- clusive of officers. CtJLLEKCOATS is a small village, inhabited chief- ly by fishermen, but, like Tynemouth, resorted to as a bathing-place, and having warm and cold baths. Be- hind it is a neglected Quaker burial ground. Coals were formerly shipped here ; but the pier of the haven lias been long thrown down. The Monk's Stone, near the village of Monk- seaton, is the pedestal of an antient cross. The place in which it stands was called, in 1320, Rodestane COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES. 175 More; and, in 1757, Cross Close Pasture. It has this inscription upon it in modern letters : " O Horor to Kill a man For a Piges head," a motto, which Grose, with much hesitation, attributes to one of the Delaval family belabouring a monk with his hunting gad, so as to occasion his death, for stealing a pig 's* head from the spit, at Seaton Delava!. The prior of Tynemouth had a tower at Whitley, at which the people of the village, by the tenure of their lands, were required to give to the convent of Tynemouth, a large annual feast, called i le conveyes 5 on Innocent's Day. At present this is a pleasant and genteel village. The Delaval family came Into England with the conqueror, to whom they were related: they were seated at Seaton Delaval in 1121, if not sooner. Their antient castle was removed when the present mansion was built ; but the domestic chapel, a neat Saxon edifice, remains. Sir John Vanburgh was the architect of this princely structure. Its porticos, hall, and saloon are very noble; and the kitchen and stable admirably constructed. A fine Obelisk, about half a mile from the house, has been happily placed in the dead flat towards Tynemouth. The Mausoleum was built by the late lord Delaval, in memory of his son, w 7 ho died about his twentieth year. At present, this is a seat of Edward Hussy Delaval, esq. of Dodding- ton, in Lincolnshire. The harbour of Seaton Sluice was formed by sir Ralph Delaval, bart. " Charles the Second, who had a great taste for matters of this kind, made him collector and surveyor of his own port. 38 It is called 176 COUNTRY SEATS AND VILLAGES, Seaton Sluice, from the sluice and, floodgates which sir Ralph invented, to scour the harbour. The new entrance into it is cut through a fine freestone rock, and is nine hundred feet long, thirty feet broad, and fifty-two feet deep. The harbour holds about four- teen vessels, each of two or three hundred tons bur- den. The salt trade here has given way to that of coals, copperas, and glass* Opposite to the village of Hartley is Bate's Island, on which was formerly a chapel of the Vir- gin, and a hermitage, both desolated. Lord Delaval formed a small harbour here, for refuge to the fisher* men in storms. ROMAN WALL. Hinc atque hinc extat vetus urbs, olim inclyta bello, Et muri disjecti et propugnacula lapsa. jfrlons Catbarina* It is allowed, on good grounds of criticism, that the Roman general, Julius Agricola, about the eighty-second year of the Christian aera, built a chain of forts parallel with the Tyne and the Irthing, from the German to the Irish ocean. The emperor Ha- drian came into Britain in a. d. 120, and, accord- ing to Spartian, built a wail eighty miles in length, to divide the Romans and the barbarians: and, forty years after, Lolius Urbicus, in the reign of Antoninus Pius, conquered the Britains, and made another wall of turf across the island. # Dion Cassius and Hero- dian speak of Severus passing the rampires, which were the boundaries of the empire in his march against the Caledonians. They both flourished about his time, and both wrote copiously on his achievements; but neither of them have a word about any wall or barrier that he built. Herodiau, indeed, says that this emperor was cautious in building bridges through the marshes, that the legions might march and fight on firm ground ; and Ziphiline, in his abridgement of Dion, speaking of Britain, has this passage, " We possess only about half the island. In attempting to reduce the Caledonians, Severus had nothing but fatigue to endure : he cut down woods, levelled hills, drained bogs, and built bridges: the enemy never ap- * The wall of Urbicus extended from the Forth to the Clyde; and abundance of infcriptions have been dug out of its ruins, which minutely elucidate its history. 178 ROMAN WALL. peared in numbers ; he fought no pitched battle ; but* in hardships and skirmishes, fifty thousand of his men were cut off." Many years after his death, Spartian, an historian not of the best credit, asserts that he drew a wall from sea to sea ; that this was the chief glory of his reign ; and that this procured him the sur- name of Britannicus. Succeeding authors, on this subject, are very contradictory, some affirming that he really built a wall of stone; others, a vallum of earth ; but others, greater in number and credit, that he only repaired the vail of Hadrian. From the number of the last we select the testimony of Richard of Cirencester : " The lieutenant, Virius Lupus, did not perform many splendid actions ; for the glory of his reign was intercepted by the unconquerable Seve- rus, who, having put the enemy to flight, repaired the wall of Hadrian, now become ruinous, and restored it to its greatest perfection. Had he lived, he intend- ed to extirpate the very name of the barbarians, but he died by the visitation cf God, among the Brigan- tes, in the city of York." In 416 a legion, the last that was sent, came from Rome to the protection of the Britains, and assisted them in building a solid wall of stone, from sea to sea, between those cities, which the turbulence of former times had rendered necessary, and where Severus had formerly made a vallum of *urf. This is Bede's ac« count, derived from Paul Orosius and Gildas, authors, whose testimony is perhaps not of the most indubit- able kind ; but it is the best the times they lived in have afforded. Bede was borne in Wearshire, a. pro- vince between the rivers Tyne and Wear, near their ROMAN WALL. 179 source. u This wall," continues he, u hitherto so famous and still so conspicuous, the Romans, with such assistance as the Britons could afford, built at public and private cost: it is eight feet broad, and twelve feet high, as is evident to beholders even to this day." This account is also not a little strengthened by a passage in Ammianus, where he recommends in his " Art of War," addressed to the emperor Theo- dosius and his sons, " castles to be built on the fron- tier of the empire, a mile asunder, and joined with a firm wall and strong towers; and that these fortresses should be garrisoned by the adjoining landholders" Hadrian's Vallum, near Portgate, consists of a mound cf earth, nineteen feet broad at the base, and near ten feet high ; sixteen feet north of this is a second mound, ten feet broad at the base, and having on its north side, a ditch twelve feet deep and twenty-one feet wide; and, twenty-eight feet north of the ditch, a third mound of earth, thirty-three feet broad at its base.* These four works keep ail the way a constant, regular parallelism one with another. The best spe- cimens of them are on Tipper-moor, where the great ditch is hewn out of a stratum of whinstone. It commences at Newcastle, and ends at Drumbrugh. The wall, vulgarly attributed to Severus, has a ditch on its north side, twenty-one feet wide at the top, and generally about fifteen feet deep. It is faced on each side with ashlar work, in many places formed on piles, the inner filling stones pretty large, broad, and thin, set on edge obliquely in mortar above the earth, and in clay beneath it. Its thickness is from seven to • Warburton's Survey, prefixed to his Vail. Rom, 180 &OMAN WALL. eight feet. At both ends it extends beyond Hadriaris wall ; with which work it keeps no regular parallel- ism. A paved military way has every where attended it on the south, It had eighteen stations upon it, with seventeen intervals between them; at the distance generally of a Roman mile, were castella, eighty three in number, each sixty-six feet square, and having the Wall itself for their north side; and between each of these were four watch towers, each four feet square. So far it was, perhaps, necessary to premise concern- ing the wall in general ; we shall now proceed to par- ticularize the remains of this stupendous work ; and, in doing so, shall, in the briefest manner possible, de- scribe its eighteen stations, in the order they stand in the Notitia Imperii." Segedunum was garrisoned by the first cohort of the Lergi, and at present is called Walls-end, on account of the great Stone Barrier terminating here. By the people in its neighbourhood, the scite of the station is sometimes called the Well-laws : it has been about one hundred and forty yards square. In Hors- ley's time, there were hillocks of stones and rubbish ; distinct traces of the ramparts of the fort ; and evident remains of two turrets at the western and eastern cor- ners of the station, and auother at the south-west corner. A wall and other works have extended to the margin of the river, as appears by grass-grown heaps of masonry. The engines of Walls-end colliery stand nearly upon its scite; and its foundations and outworks have been frequently exposed in sinking shafts and making waggon- ways. Besides immense quantities of horns and bones of various animals, frag- BOMAN WALL. 181 xnehts of pottery, Roman tegula, coins, rings, and such like, are continually turning up here ; this place has produced four centurial stones a id an altar dedi- cated to Jupiter, all given in Horsley. This forged inscription was published in the New- HADR castle Journal, Aug. 6, 1775, MVR.COND.... and is given by Pennant as au- HOC MAR... thentic. There are many visible POS.COSS.D... remains of the wall and ditch, be- tween this place and Newcastle; and Walker and Byker have their names from castella upon it. Pons JElii, now Newcastle, was garrisoned by the Cohors Cornoviorum. We have before noticed that Hadrian's vallum ended here, and that this sta- tion had its name from that emperor, who was of the iElian family. The Stone Barrier passed on the north side of St. Nicholas' church, and Mr Horsley was of opinion, that the east wall of this station ran at right angles from it through St. George's Porch ; that each side measured six chains ; and that the val- lum of Hadrian formed its southern rampire. The lower part of the wall, which formed the east side of the late Moot Hall, and is still standing, is beyond all dispute a part of the walls of Pons iElii: it has the, same breadth, bearing, and mechanical feature of the foundations of a wall discovered under the New Courts ; and a low Roman door-way walled up, and its tesselated ashlar work, are convincing proofs of its origin. " I am of opinion," says Brand, * that the inscriptions belonging to the station Pons iElii are all built up in the old keep of the castle, and that a rich treasure of this kind will some time or other be 9 182 ROMAN WALL. discovered lurking in its almost impregnable walls by future antiquaries." Condercum was the station of the Ala Prima Asturnm. Its scite is near Benwell, two miles from Newcastle. The Carlisle road crosses it ; and a wag- gon way was made through it, in 1810. There are plans of it, and of the bath discovered near it, in Brand's History of Newcastle, drawn in 1751, by the late Robert Shafto, esq. to whom the greater part of it belonged at that time. The altars and inscriptions found here are at the Rectory of Rjton. One of them was found in 1669, and is supposed, by Baxter, to belong to the consulship of Palma and Senicio; but Horsley refers it to the time of the emperors Marcus Aurelius and Lucius Verus. The original is somewhat defaced. The altar, dedicated to Jupiter Dolichenus, a god of mines, is mutilated at the top, but its inscription is remarkably perfect.^ Reinesius has an altar dedicated to the same god in this manner " J. O. M. Dolycheno ubi ferrum nascitur;" and Horsley observes : " it may not be improper to re- mark, that there is a coalry near Benwell, a part of which is judged by persons best skilled in such affairs to have been wrought by the Romans." The follow- ing inscription is given by Mr Brand : • Jovi optimo maximo Dolicheno et numinibus Augusti pro salute imperatoris Caesaris Titi iElii Hadriani Antonini Augusti Pii patris patriae et legionis secundae Augustas Marcus Liburnius Fronto centurio iegionis ejusdem votum solvit lib ens merito, Horsley. ROMAN WALL. 183 MATRIBVS CAMPEST ET.GENIO.AL^E PRI.HISPRNo RVMASTVRVM GORDIANJE.T. AGRpPA PRJE.TEMPLVM A So.... .... TITV1T Matribus Campestribus et Genio alec prima Hispanorum Asturum ob virtuiem appellate Gor- diana Titus Agrippa templum a Solo restituit* The chasms are caused by erasures designedly made. Camden has an inscription, found at Old Carlisle, which mentions the Ala Augusta Gordiana ob vertutem appellata, and the Vardulians, who, like the Astures, weie a people of Spain, and are mentioned on stones at Lanchester, and Riechester, under the reign of Gordian the Third. This emperor was murdered a. d. 244; supposing, therefore, this temple to have been first erected by the soldiers of Agricola, about the year 80, it was only about one hundred and twenty-eight years old at the time it was rebuilt. A remarkable altar inscribed LAMIIS TRIBUS was also found here: these goddesses are supposed to be the same as the three harpies, Aello, Ocypite, and Ctlasno. In trenching the ground on the north side of the station here, many coins, large conduits, several small altars, and fragments of inscriptions were discovered ; # and, when the iron rail-way was made, the founda- tions of several buildings appeared. Opposite the second milestone from Newcastle, the foundations of an exploratory tower were found, o2 * Brand,!. 606. 184 ROMAN WALL. At Denton-burn there is a piece of the stone wall, nine feet broad, and having an apple tree growing out of it ; and, a little east of Heddon-on-the-Wall, another piece with the facing stones on the north side. Vindobala was garrisoned by the Cohors Prima Frixagorum ; and at present is called Rutchester, in books; but, by the people who live at it, Rood- Chester? a name probably derived from some Cross which has formerly stood here. Hadrian's vallum runs about a chain south of this fortress, and the Stone Barrier passes from the middle of its east and west ramparts, which, on the enemies side, have been strongly guarded with towers* The suburbs have been very large ; and, as usual, on the south side. On the western brow of the hill is a large cistern, hewn out of the rock ; when found, it was divided into two com- partments, by a stone partition, and had a three foot- ed iron candlestick, a small instrument like a tooth pick, and a great quantity of large bones in it ; for what purpose it was designed is extremely uncertain. Some centurial stones ; a broken statue of Hercules, removed to London by Mr Duane, # in 1761 ; silver fibulae; coins of the lower empire; and bricks in- scribed LEG VLV. have been found here. Also, in the castle stead, east of the station, in 1766, two poor labourers found an urn full of gold and silver coins, many of which they disposed of, but Mr Arch- deacon " recovered, as treasure-trove, near five hun- dred silver and sixteen gold ones; almost a complete series of those of the higher empire ; among them se- * Stuku Ca\aus. I* 187* ROMAN WALL. 185 veral Othos, most of them in fine preservation."* The altar in the Rector's garden in Gateshead was brought from hence : its inscription is singular, and, in our opinion, should be read thus : Regi Christo Hominum. Valentisimi Regi, Arbitro Iiominum. Jehovah Regi. This has probably been a dedication of some christian soldier in the Roman army. Part of the tower of the Rutchester family still re- mains here ; and their domestic chapel, being made use of as a cow-house, was pulled down about forty- four years since, by its owner, to prevent the possi- bility of its future desecration. The estate belongs to Walter Fawks, esq, of Farnby in Yorkshire, and was purchased by his uncle, Ascough Fawks, esq. of Mr Archdeacon, who inherited it from John Rogers, esq. of Denton. At the village of Harlow-Hill, a piece of the Stone Wall remains; and, west of it, opposite Welton, in the ruins of a castellum, was found a stone inscribed LEG.II.AVG.F. and now in the stable yard at Welton Hall. This Welton shews the vestigia of a considerable town, and, in our opinion, is the Ad Murum of Bede, the royal villa of king Osweo, and where bishop Finian, in 653, baptized Peada, king of the Middle Angles, and Sigberct, king of the East Saxons.f W 7 est of this village, the two barriers are, in many places, very fresh ; and the facing stones of the foundation of the Stone Wall appear in long paral- lel lines, uniformly 10 feet broad, along the middle of the high-way. 83 5 Wallib' Northumb, ii. 168. f Smith's Bede, p. 12s, 1*6, 386 ROMAN WALL. Hunnum, or Halion Chesters, is the fifth sta- tion in the series of the Notitia, and was garrisoned by the Ala Saviniana. It lies on both sides of the high-way; but especially on the south, where the walls, ditches, and different offices of the interior of the station appear in large and confused heaps of ruins. The south-east corner seems to have been round, and a heap of ruins there, larger than at other places, plainly indicates the remains of a fallen tower. The column mentioned by Brand still lies here. A- mong the inscriptions belonging to this place, the most curious is one that mentions the Ma Sabiniana, which corroborates the testimony of the Notitia, that that wing was in garrison here. The Second Legion has left its name within a civic garland. Abundance of stags horns, heaps of mussel shells, and several copper coins have been turned up among these ruins. This ring was found in harrow- ing the adjoining ground, April 5, 1803. It is of pure gold ; we^hs eight pennyweights, fifteen grains ; is set with a small blue stone, slightly injured ; and is at present worn by Lady Blackett, of Matfen. Portgate was a border tower. Opposite the seventeenth milestone both the rampires appear mag- nificently, especially the ditch of the wall, which is broad, deep and sharp. In descending the hill, to- wards Chollerford Bridge, several yards of the wall remain: it has thorns growing upon it; three courses ROMAN WALL. 187 of aslilars remain at ihe bottom ; towards the top, it consists of filling stones, placed in rows featherwise over each other; and, from the strength of the cement that binds them, has a hard and craggy appearance. A stone was also found here, inscribed by the Second Legion. H Where Watling-street passes the Wall there is a visible track of a square gate, and the ditch belonging to the Wall manifestly goes about the other half of it, the inner half being so visible. This gate seems to be of much the same size with the castles, sixty feet square, only these are wholly within the Wall, but the gate within and without."* A little way below Chollerford Mill, in a line with the wall, the Tyne has been crossed by a stone bridge evident remains of which may easily be traced in dry seasons. It has not stood at right angles against the stream, but slanted from the west to the east. Its foundations appear like a fine pavement in the bed of the river. All the facing stones have been joined to- gether with horizontal dove-tail cramps, soldered into their matrices with lead. It is remarkable, in the re- mains of this structure, that the largest stones are pierced with lewis-holes, a circumstance which suf- ficiently proves that that invention was used in antient architecture. Cilurnum, or Walwick Ckesters, was the quar- ters of the Ala Secunda Asturum. It stands on sloping ground on the western bank of the North Tyne, and, according to Warbui ton, its walls measur- ed five hundred and seventy feet from east to west, # Gough't Camd. iii, 21 6* 188 SOMAN WALL. and four hundred from north to south. "There ard large ruins within the fort, the shape and whole di- mensions of which are yet visible* The ruins of thel out-buildings shew themselves betweea the fort and! the river ." # At present these remains are grass- 1 grown, but the lines of the station are still percepti- 1 ble: within its area is a large vault lately discovered. In a grove behind Chesters, the seat of Nathaniel Clayton, esq, there is a good specimen of the Stone Wall and its ditch ; and, near it, in a summer- house, several antiquities, the produce of this sta- tion. One of these is a broken statue of Europa in freestone. The drapery of the goddess is well design- ed, and neatly executed ; but the bull is much too small : its feet rest upon a sinuous, scaley fish, symbo- lical of the sea, and the pediment of the statue has a neat border in bas relief. The head, legs, and tail of the bull, and the head and arms of Europa, are broken off. It is remarkable that this daughter of Agenor is here executed standing on the back of her metamor- phosed lover, whereas Ovid says, * * * Aufa eft quoque regia Virgo, Nefcia quern premeret, tergo considcre tauro. * * dextra cornu tenet; altera dorfo Impofita eft: tremulse finuantur flamine veftes* The most interesting inscription here is on a free- stone table, neatly moulded around, but broken into four pieces. The letters, though remarkably legible, are much complicated ; many of them have been pur- posely erased \, and all the lines are imperfect on the right, by a part of the stone being lost, * Horsley's Brit. Rom, ROMAN WALL, 189 IMP CAES AVREL- AVG . P iB-P- ....OS.. .PP DiVLm. DIVrSEVER.NEP- , CAESAR IMPER ^ ALiEIIASIVR V .... VSTAT... ERVNTPERMARIVM- VALER ... INSTANTE SEPT1MIO NILO P . ^E...... DEDICATVM.IILKAL.NOVEM GR..EO ET SEL. From the remains of this remarkable tablet may easily be gathered, that it was erected by the second wing of the Astures, in the first or second consulship of Alexander Severus/f- to commemorate the rebuild* ing of some edifice ruined by age, and which was de- dicated on the third of the kalends of November. The Astures were a people of Spain, and are men- tioned on inscriptions at Benwell, and Great Chesters : Horsley contended they were the Asti, a colony in Liguria** Lampridius, one of the authors in the Augustine History, says of Alexander Severus: " in Britannia (ut alii volunt in Gallia) in vico cui Sicila nomen est eum occiderunt ;" and Hovedeu and others say, that Alfwald, king of Northumberland, was slain at a place called " Scile-Chester, juxta murum" We do not pretend positively to assert that Cilurnum, Sicila, and Scile-Chester are names of the same place ; but they bear a strong similarity, and, by the fluctuating orthography of antient times, there are numerous examples of names farther distorted than these from their original form. f See Gruter, p. cxc. No. 8, 13, p. mlxxviii. No. 7, 2. • Brit. Rom. p. xoj. 190 ROMAN WALL. Horsley has a few sepulchral and centurial inscrip- tions, and certain figures in relief, found in Cilurnum, but none of them any otherwise important than as objects of curiosity. The sepulchral stones, now at Walwick grange, were found by the side of the Roman road, between that place and Chesters. At this station, a military way has left the wall, and proceeded in a curve, by Newburgh and Little Ches- ters, to Caervoran, where it has again joined it. Mr Warburton, contrary to the opinion of Horsley and Gordon, thought that the Maiden-way from Kirkby- thore in Westmorland, down South Tindale, to Caer- voran, came this way to the bridge of Cilurnum, and, after crossing Watling-street, proceeded on the line of the Devil's Causeway 7 into Scotland, near Berwick- upon-Tweed. Between Cilurnum and Magna, the remains of the two barriers are more perfect than in any other part of their whole course. Hadrian's work generally sweeps around the feet of the hills, while the Stone Barrier as generally leaves it, and traverses the brows of precipices, and the tops of the highest hills. Procolitia, according to the Notitia and an in- scription found at it, was garrisoned by the Cohors Prima Batavorum. It stands in a high bleak situa- tion. The ground about is rich, and its scite irregu- lar with heaps of ruins. The military way which ac- companies the Stone Barrier has entered its east and gone out at its west gate. There have been suburbs on its west side, where also is a fine spring, about seven feet square within, cased with hewn stone, and having a pillar lying beside it, and heaps of ruins, as if ROMAN WALL. 191 it had once been covered with a house. At present it is called Carrawbrugh. In old writing it is spell- ed Carrozve and Carhongh, which evidently mean the city of the height. Burgh and Caer are nearly synonyma. Two beautiful altars were discovered here, and removed by Mr Warburton to the library at Durham, where they are at present. The first of 1. FORTVNiE them confirms the Notitia COH. I. B ATAVOR in placing the first Batavian CVIPRAEEST Cohort here; and the se- MELACCIN1VS condis a dedication « to MARCEL LVSPBZE. the welfare of the Roman 2. FORTVNiE People by Caius Julius P R Raeticus, a centurion in CIVL.RAETICSC.LEG.VI.VIC. the sixth Legion." " About half a mile south west from Carraw, upon a high ground, is a square fort, now called Broom- d)kes; it is as large as the fort of Carrawbrugh, and probably has been for exploration, or for the sestiva of this fort."* Sewing Shields castle was mistaken by Cam- den for the Station of Hunnum : " but, says Horsley " I saw nothing that was Roman in it. The castle itself, now in ruins, and the motes beside it, are un- doubtedly of much later date. And I observed seve- ral trenches thereabouts, particularly a large and long one, which reaches from Busy-gap cross the passes between the mountains. But these are all on the north side of the wall, and must certainly have been made in later times for securing the neighbouring • Horsley, 192 ROMAN WALL. passes. Probably they are no older than the times of our famous Mosstroopers, who might conveniently shelter themselves among these hideous mountains and mosses." Much of the wall was last summer taken up, in this neighbourhood; to build certain farm offices at Sewing-Shields: seven courses of stone were found, in many places, beneath the earth : a few centurial stones were also discovered. Here is the Cave of the Enchanted Warriors, and a high, rude stone, called King Ethel's Chair. Busy-Gap is about a mile west of Sewing-Shields, and by tradition reported to have had its name from the many hot contests that have been at it between the Romans and Caledonians. Borcovicus, or House-Steads, was the station of the Cohors Prima Tungorum, as appears from the Notitia, and several inscriptions. It stands on the brink of a rocky eminence, and has the Stone Wall for its northern rampart. The ground before it slopes towards the south ; and, on the west, where it is most fertile, it has been formed into flights of broad ter- races, a favourite method among the antients, of cul- tivating the sides of hills. The fort is about seven chains in length and five in breadth. Its area, on the north side, is nearly plain; but its southern part is covered with confused heaps of ruins, broken columns, pilasters, mouldings, figures of gods, and warriors. Dr Stukely, with much propriety, calls this, the Tad- mor of Britain, and Horsley tells us that "the vast ruins of the station and town are truly wonderful." The suburbs, divided into streets and squares, extend over several acres ; and traces of buildings are dis- cernible on the south and west, to the distance of KOMAN WALL. 195 twenty furlongs, On the margin of the brook, a little east of the station, are the remains of a bath. " There may be two or three other stations in Britain (as Bard- Oswald, Elenborough and Lancbester) that exceed this in Btunber and variety of inscriptions, but none equals it in extent of ruins of the town, or number, variety, and curiosity of its sculptures/'* On ChapeU hilly a short distance south of the station, are ruins of a temple " of the Doric order ; a large fragment of a Doric capital lying prostrate by it some years ago, consisting of two torus's plain ; also many broken columns."^ Gordon saw five or six altars within the ruins of this temple \ and two of them, dedicated to Jupiter by the first cohort of the Tungrians, are given in Horsley ; in whose work are, also, another altar to Jupiter, one to Mars, one to Hercules, and one to the Deae Matres, all by the same cohort. To this place also belong several sepulchral stones, and curious figures carved in relief, especially three stones, on each of which are cut three female figures, supposed to re- present the Deae Matres, the Parcae, or some such deities. A mile west of B orcovicus, near Milking-gap, was discovered, in the foundations of a castellum, a lar^e stone with this inscription. Wallis says, the stone is IMP. CAES. TRAIAN at Ridley Hall; and, HADR1ANI AVG. if his information LEG. IL AVG. was correct, as to its A PLATORIO NEPOTE being found in the LEG.PR.PR, wall usually attribute R • Horrtey,i48. f Wallis Northuuib. ii 38. 194* ROMAN WALL. ed to Severus, it involves the accounts of the authors of the two barriers in deeper mystery than ever. It confounds all former criticism ; and induces the be- lief that some of the castella of the Wall are as old as the time of Hadrian; anr* that this, in particular, had been built as an out-post, or exploratory tower, to the barrier of that emperor. Vindolana, according to the Notitia, was gar- risoned by the Cohors Quarta Gallorum. It is some- times called the Bowers, but generally Little Chesters. It stands a few chains south of the military way from Walwick Chesters to Caervcran, and a mile and three quarters south of both the walls. A narrow paved way has led from it to Hadrian's work. Its ramparts are seven chains in length and four in breadth ; and visible quite round: their corners have been guarded with circular towers. Within their area, the ground, though grass grown, is very irregular. On the south- east, the ground slopes rapidly into Bardon Burn ; and on the west and south-west are the remains of a town. The ruins of a bath were discovered on the west side, fifty yards from the ramparts. Here is a hill called Chapel Steads, and, near it, a bog in which great quantities of urns have been found. Within the hedge, on the north side of the via vicinalis, where it crosses Bardon Burn, is a mile pillar and a large barrow; and, a mile farther west, in the Causeway hamlet, a similar pillar, broken in two. In a corner of the Well-house is an inscription to Mars ; in a field, a little north of it, one to the Dii Manes ; and farther north, an altar with a deer standing under a tree, and below it two fawns, in the eating posture, in circular ROMAN WALL. 19^ niches. A stone found here, and metamorphosed in- to a tombstone, now in Beltitigham chapel yard, seemed to corroborate the testimony of the Notitia, that a troop of Gauls had been quartered here. Camden found an altar at Mekrig, a village on South Tyne, Hedicated to tne Syrian goddess b\ Calpurnius Agricola, who was propreior in Britain under Mar- cus Aurelius, and thought it had been removed from this place. The bricks here are inscribed LEG. VI. V. VV arhurton found a rude figure of Mercury, and some Roman sandals here, and gave them to the Royal Society. Where the military way branches off to Great Chesters, there are four tumuli, or barrows, called the Four Lawes. The Romans erected tumuli of turf over the graves of their soldiers, especially over those who fell in any miserable manner in battles, or by treachery, or in a massacre: as in the case of the soldiers of Varus : primum extruendo tumuio cespi- tem Caesar posuit, gratissimo munere in defunctos, et praesentibus- doloris socms.* In this neighbourhood, on a hill, is also a monument called the Mare and Foals: it consists of three rude pillars of stone, two of them broken in the midst; 4 )' At JEsiCA, or Great Chesters, the Notitia places the Cohors Prima Astorum. This station is a little larger than Little Chesters. Its ramparts are better preserved than those of any other station of the wall, and the lines of the pmt or ium, qit(estoriu/n, and other remarkable buildings, are still very fresh : two of its * Taciti Ann Lib i. f Hutch. Northumb. v. i. p. 49. 196 feOMAN WALL, ditches also remain, and large vestiges of a town on the south and east. " Some pieces of an iron gate and hinges have been found in the ruins not long ago." # Camden has an altar found here, which had been erected to the welfare of Desidienus JElianus (a pratfect) and his family, in the consulship of Tuscus and Bassus, a. d. 258. Here also are some curious sculptures, one in particular, representing two victo- ries, each on the wings of an eagle, and holding a vexiUum; and below them two wild boars rushing furiously past a tree towards each other; this has doubtless been set up as a type of victory over the Caledonians. Some Roman tomb-stones remain in the neighbourhood. In digging up the foundations of a large building in the upper part of the station, in 1767; was found a very large stone, nearly square, with a handsome moulding, and the following in- scription : — Wallis calls it " imperfect, by two frac- tures, at each corner, at the bottom, whereby half of four lines are wanting, besides some letters." We* copied the part in Roman letters from Mr Brand'* ^rawing; that in Italic, is from Wallis. "imp- c^es. m. avr. seve rvs alexander- pf e avg horrevm vetv * state con laps vm m coh ii astvrvm s-a a solo restitverynt provincia recent maximo leg. wg. prp..,. sal marti med leg a tvs co. ii. et dext* • Horsley. ROMAN WALL. 197 From which it appears that the second cohort of the Jstures were in garrison here, and not, as the Notitia lias it, the Jirst cohort of the A&ti. Brand has copied the inscription to the margin of the frac- tures on each side, which shews that either the stone was larger when Wallis saw it, or that the letters in Italic are not to be depended upon. The part CO. II. ET DEXT. may perhaps relate to L. Tur- pilianus Dexter, who was consul with M. Melius Rufus, in a. d. 225, and the fourth year of the reign of Alexander Severus ; but, if the seventh ard eighth lines were provincia regente Maximo legato augwtali propratore, as we suppose them to have been, then LEGATUS CO. II. would well enough apply to Maximus, who was second time consul in the twelfth year of that emperor, though it appears that Ovinus Paternus was at that period his colleague in the con- sulship. The ninth line has probably referred to the kalends of March. From the place where this stone was discovered, we may infer that it was usual with the Romans to have their granaries within the area of their stations. Among the cliffs, near Walliown y is a Well, near which Horsley s.w a Roman stone. It has been in- closed. Wallis supposes that Paulinus baptized king Egfrid here; but Hutchinson inclines to think it was Edwin, king of Northumberland, who supplied the wells by the way sides with iron dishes, for the con- venience of travellers. Magna, in the Notitia, is the eleventh station of the Wall, :«nd was garrisoned by the Cokor$ Prima Dal/uatorum, Its modern name is Caervoran p B3 398 ROTMAN WALL. which probably means the tozm and castle. Mr Brand saw a stone at Glenwhelt, a village near this station, inscribed CIVITAS DUMNI, or " The City of the Hill," and hence concludes that this place was antiently called Dtimnum. It stands about twelve or thirteen chains south of both the Walls; and, within its ramparts, contains about four acres and a half. The ramparts and ditch are still dis- cernible. The suburbs have been on the south and west, on the descent towards the Tippal. " The military way, called the Maiden Way, passes through this station, and, as is said, goes to Beaucastle, which is about six miles from it."* The altar inscribed — " Deabus Nymphis Vetia mansueta, et Claudia Tur- fainilla iilia votum solverunt libentes," was formerly at Blenkinsop Castle, but at present is in a garden- wall at Glenwhelt. The inscriptions found here, though numerous, are mostly mutilated, and little worthy of observation, except one, in the end of Mr Carriers bam, inscribed— COHORS I. BATA- ' VORUM F. i. e. the first cohort of the Batavians made this : — and another, which Mr Brand translates thus- — " To the god Mars and the deities. . . .Julius, the actarius of the cohort, and Aotius, the centurion, and Servius Valerius Gracchus, erected this from the ground, performing a vow." Tacitus informs us that Agricola, in his famous battle with Galgacus, at the Grampian mountain, fought the enemy awhile with missile weapons*, until he cheered the three Batavian and the two Tungrian cohorts to charge the enemy : — " donee Agricola tres Batavorum cohortes, ac Tun- * Horsier. SOMAN WALL. 199 grorum duas cohortatus est, ut rem ad mucrones ac inanus adducereiit."* " Abundance of antiquities, of various sorts," says Horsiey, " have been dug up in this station and town. When I was last here, I purchased a Roman ring, with a victory on a Cornelian, but coarse." A human skeleton was found at the east end, when the road was made into Cumberland; also, some years after, a brass lar, and an aitar, inscribed " Deo Veterino;" both in the possession of the Rev. H. Waste!! of Newbrough. A statue of a Roman soldier, having above his left shoulder a lion recumbent, struggling with a deer under his paws, beautifully executed, was found in 1760, and given to Mr Wallis, who speaks of abundance of stags horns, and cinders of coals being turned up here. " I saw here," says Brand, " Oct, 7th, 1783, five square bases of columns, and some curious gutter stones. On opening a tumulus on the east of the station, there was discovered a remarkable hollow sepulchral stone, which contained a small quan- tity of black liquid, and two gold rings." There are also, on the garden- wall here, two or three fragments of inscriptions, a millstone, a broken statue, and se- veral other Roman antiquities. Thirlzcall Castle is the remains of a strong old border tower, and was the residence of a family of its own name for many generations. As a building, it has no relation to the Roman Wall, though it is said to have derived its rame from the Scots piercing the wall here ; for, says Fordun, Thir/wall, ill Latin, is Murus Perforatus. There is to the south, in sight • Julii Agricolas Vita. 200 ROMAN WALL. of it, a camp with a single vallum and foss, called Slack Dykes ; and, west of it, a quarter of a mile, another camp. " On the west side of the rivulet called Poltross, and near Mumps Hall, Severus's ditch appears large and distinct, being detached about eight yards from the wall. I measured it about thirty feet wide at the top, and fifteen at the bottom, and its depth about ten. I saw no remains of a bridge either at Poltross or Irthing."* Amboglanna, or Burdoswald, was the station of the Cohors Prima Mlia Dacorum. It stands up- on a large plain, at the head of a steep descent to- wards the river Irthing, having the out-buildings chief- ly on the south-east. The castrum forms a parallel- ogram of one hundred and twenty yards north and south, by eighty yards east and west. Horsley found the foundation?- of the houses within this fort very visible : he measured the thickness of their walls, and found them to be about twenty-eight inches, and the distance, or breadth of the passage between the rows of houses or barracks, to be no more than thirty-two inches. In the northern part of the station there seemed to be the remains of a temple. The turrets in the south rampart, on each side of the gate, were also, in his time, very visible ; and over against the entry were the ruins of the Praetonum, with a house or two upon them. Camden found six altars here dedicated to Jupiter Optimus Maximus, by different tribunes and preteUs of the Cohors Prima JElia Da« corum j an inscription to be read, Pro salute domini ♦ Horaley. HOMAN WALL. 201 ftostri maximi ac fortissimi Imperatoris Cassaris Marci Aurelii Maximiani sedificavit ; and LEG. VI VIC. PF. F. i. e. " The sixth Legion, victorious, pious, and happy, made this." Horsley published other two altars to Jupiter Optimus Maximus, found here ; and, one hundred yards eastward, in a kind of ruin, were dug up two more altars, dedicated to the same deity, by the Cohors Prima iEiia Dacorum Postumiana, by two different tribunes.^ Here also were found dedications to Mars, and the god Cocis; a stone, which had been placed in some edifice by the First Cohort of the Second Legion ; and several infe- rior inscriptions. Mr Brand found a sepulchral stone in the milk- house, which he translates thus, u To the Dii Manes of Aurelius Concdidus — he lived one year and ten da^s — the son of Aurelianus Julianus the Tribune ;" the original of this is at the Rectory at Ryton ; most of the originals of the others were once at Naworth Castle, from whence they were stolen by sir Thomas Robinson, and Dr. Graham, of Nether- by* A little west of the brook, Banks-burn, at a house called Hare Hill, in Horsley 's time, was the highest part of the Wall then to be met with, but the facing stones were removed : " We measured/' sa\s he, " three yards and a half from the ground; and no doubt half a yard more is covered, at the bot- tom, with rubbish :" at present, this part is ten feet high and five yards long. Petri an a was garrisoned by the Ala Petriana, t Gent. Magaz. 1746, 53%. • Brands Newc. vol 1, p 614. 20£ ROMAN WALL. and is at present called Cam beck Fort, or Castle- steads. It lies almost opposite to Brampton, between Cammock beck, or Cambeck, and the Irthing, having the former lunning past its north-east wall, under a steep bank and declining ground, scattered with foundations, sloping from its south-east front to the Irthing. Its longest side is about four Gunter's chains, and the shortest, two and a half. Some houses have heen built out of its ruins, which, from the black- ness of the stones, appear to have suffered by fire* Great numbers of nails, and brass and iron run to- gether into lumps, have been found ; also tiles, about an inch thick, ten inches by nine, having a ledge to bang them on roofs, and made of a close yellowish earth. Mr Goodman of Carlisle mentioned much earthen ware of various shapes and colours, a small carnelian seal, and sent copies of several inscriptions to Mr Gale.f Horsley found this fort covered with wood, in which state it remained, in 1783; but Hut- ton says, its foundations have been razed and a gen- tleman's house built upon its scite. It is detached from the wall to the south about twelve chains. Lord William Howard of Naworth gave to Cam- den drawings of an altar to Jupiter Optimus Maximus, and of an inscription on a square stone, both of which mention the first cohort of the Tungrians : They were both of them much mutilated; the latter of them found in an antient hypocaust, but neither of them extant to gratify Horsley 's " earnest wish to see them " This hypocaust is described in the Gentle- man's Magazine, for ] 74 1 . In Holland's edition of f Rcli tone, called by us sea-coals." Some authors think that Pliny's description of AmpeJitis answers to this substance : — " it is very like bitumen : its test is — if it be reduced to wax when subjected to oil, and if it remains black after exposure to fire. It is chiefly used in beautifying the eye- lashes and -in dying the hair." George Agricola seems to think that coal is the same as the Thracian stone of Pliny, which that author says, kindles like quicklime, by water, but not by oil. The antients, however, are frequently so incorrect in their classification both of genera and species, as to render their descriptions in natural history extremely confused and equivocal. £18 COAL TRADE. number of Roman coins was found some years ago.' 7# Add to all this, that Siculus Flaccus enumerates them among the articles buried in the earth, over which boundary tumuli were raised, for which custom, St. Augustine assigns this pertinent reason : u Is it not a wonderful thing, that though coals are so brittle, that with the least blow they break, with the least pressure they are crushed in pieces ; yet no time can destroy them ; insomuch that they who pitch landmarks are wont to throw them underneath, to convince any liti- gious person, who shall affirm, though ever so long after, that no landmark was there." Our Saxon ancestors called it Graefan, a name re- corded in a grant to the abbey of Peterborough, which secures to that house " twcrtffothur gr&fan ;"f and, also, apparently left at Pittencrief in Fife-shire, where a coal mine, the first of which any mention oc- curs in Scotland, was granted to the abbey of Dum- fermline, in 1291* During the Danish usurpation, no mention of it occurs. Rise and Progress of Newcastle Coal Trade.— King Henry the Third, says Gardiner, in 1239, granted to the good men of Newcastle, " licence to dig coals, and stones, in the common soil of that town, without the walls thereof, in the place called the Castle-field, and the Forth ; and from thence to draw and convert them to their own profit, in aid of their fee-farm rent of 1001. per annum." This king was also, afterwards, graciously pleased to give them all the stone and coals in the Forth, adjoining to the former. An inquisition preserved in the Additions • Whitaker's Manch» f Saxon Chron. COAL TRADE. 219 to the History of Matthew Paris, dated in 1245, not only mentions sea-coal (carbo maris) but even speaks of the wages of the persons employed in making pits to dig them from ; and a like document, made in 1280, says, that the revenues of this town had increas- ed so much by the sale of coals, that at that time it was worth 2001. a year. So great was their use in London, in 1306, that parliament complained to the king of their infecting the air with noxious vapours; in consequence of which two proclamations were issued, prohibiting their far- ther use, and containing strict orders to inflict fines upon delinquents, and to destroy all furnaces and kilns in which they were used. But necessity and exnerience soon triumphed over ignorance and pre- judice; a debt of 10s. was incurred for this article at the coronation of Edward the Third. Mention oc- curs of a vessel trading to Newcastle, from France, with corn, in 1325, and of returning freighted with coals. The Priory of Tynemouth, in 1330, let a colliery, called Heygrove, at ' Ehtemjke,' for 5l. a-year ; an- other in the East-field there, at six marks a year; be- sides which, they had one in the West-field, aud an- other near Gallow-flat, on the same estate, in the years 1331 and 1334. These mines, in 1530, were let for 20l. a-year, on condition that more than twenty chaldron, of six bolls each, should not be drawn in a day ; in 1538, two pits were let here by the same house, for the yearly rent of 501. ; and, in 1554, queen Mary granted a lease of twenty-one years, of all the mines within the fields and bounds af Elstwick,' at the annual rent of 631. t2 220 COAL TRADE. The manor of Collierly, in the parish of Lunches- ter, is mentioned in bishop Hatfield's survey, between the year 1333 and 1345 ; and that prelate's successor, in 1384, appointed a supervisor of his mines of coal snd iron, within his royalty, and in the districts of ^Norhamsbire and Islandshire. Edward the Third granted licences to Newcastle, to work coal in the Castle-field and Castle-moor; is- sued orders concerning coal measures ; suffered coals won in the fields of Gateshead to be taken across the Tyne in boats to Newcastle, on condition of their paying the usual customs of that port ; and after that to be sent to any part of the kingdom, either by land or water, but to no place out of it, except to Calais. Pope Pius the Second, in his commentaries, pub- lished under the name of John Gebellin, relates that when he visited Scotland, he was witness to poor people receiving, at the churches as alms, stones im- pregnated with inflammable substances, which they burn in the place of wood, of which their country is destitute. That the coal used in 1512 was of an inferior kind, may be inferred from the Northumber- land Household Book, which asserts that " coyles will not byrne withowte wodd." " Their greatest trade," says Harrison, in his Description of England,* " beginneth now to growe from the forge to the kitchen and hall, as may appeare alreadie in most cities and townes that lye about the coast, where they have little other fewell, excepte it be turffe or hassocke. I marvell not a little that there is no trade of these into Sussex and Southampton-shire, for want where- * Prefixed to Hoi. Hist. vol. i, p. 397, Ed. 180;. COAL TRADE. 221 of the Smiths doo work their iron with chareoale." And Stowe observes, " within thirty yeares last, the nice dams of London would not come into any house or roome where sea-coales were burned : nor wil- lingly eat of the meat that was either sod or roasted with sea-coal tire." In 1582, queen Elizabeth obtained a ninety-nine years lease of the manors and royalties of Gateshead and Whickham, at the yearly rent of ninety pounds'* This was called the Grand lease, and caused an im- mediate advance in coals. The queen, however, soon after transferred it to the earl of Leicester, who afterwards assigned it to his secretary, Thomas Sutton, the founder of the Charter House. Sutton again, in consideration of 12,0001. transferred it to sir William Riddell, and others, for the use of the mayor and bur- gessess of Newcastle. This lease was much complained of on the score of monopoly. By the records of Whitby Abbey, it ap- pears that coals brought from Newcastle and Sun- derland, sold at Whitby, in 1396, at 3s. 4d. a chal- dron. In the time of Henry the Eighth, the Trinity House, in Newcastle, paid Is, a chaldron for coals; in London, they cost about 4s. ; and, " in France, they were sold for thirteen nobles per chaldron;* Tne grand lease put the trade into a fever. While Suiton held it, the price in London was 6s. a chal- dron ; but, on its assignment to the corporation of Newcastle, they rose to 7s. and soon after to 8s. la 1590, the current price in London, was advanced to 9s.; upon which, the lord mayor complained to the lord treasurer Burleigh, against the town of New* t 3 222 COAL TRADE, castle ; setting forth that the society of Free Hosts consisted of about sixty persons, who had consigned their right of the grand lease to about eighteen or twenty, who engrossed the collieries at Stella, Ra- vensworth, Newborn, &c, and, therefore, requested that the whole of them might be opened, and the price fixed, at a maximum of 7s. a chaldron. An interesting account of the coal trade at New- castle upon Tyne, dated February 28th, 1602, is preserved in the books of the fraternity of Host men.* At that period there were twenty eight acting fitters or hostmen, who were to vend by the year, nine thou- sand and eighty tens of coals, and find eighty live keels for that purpose. In 16 15, the trade appears to have employed four hundred sail of ships, one half of which supplied London, the rest the other parts of England with coal. At this period, the French are also represented as trading to Newcastle for coal, in fleets of fifty sail at once, serving the ports of Picardy, Normandy, Bretagne, 2cc. as far as R chel and Bour- deaux, while the ships of Bremen, Embden, Holland, and Zealand, were supplying the inhabitants of Flan- ders with the same article. In 1616, by the Host- men's books it appears that thirteen thousand six hun- dred and seventy -five tons of coals were shipped from this port: in 1622, the vend was fourteen thousand four hundred and twenty tons. But, when the town fell into the hands of the covenanters in 1640, * Camden derives their name from the latinized word Oustmanni) that is, the east men, who came from Germany and other parts, and settled in different ports of Engiai d and Ire- land for trading purposes. " Oaste," at Newcastle, always meant a stranger who came to buy coals. COAL TRADE. £23 the coal trade, which before that event is said to have employed ten thousand people, sustained an immense loss: every one fled, thinking the Scots would give no quarter, and more than one hundred vessels, that arriv- ed off Tynemouth-Bar the day after the fight, hear- ing the Scots were in possession of the town, re- turned empty. The evil ended not here; for in Jan- uary, 1642, an ordinance of parliament prohibited ships from bringing coals or salt from Newcastle, Sunderland, or Biyth; and succeeding restrictions made every species of fuel so scarce in London, that coals at that period sold for 41. a chaldron. General Lesly, in 1643 prevented the mines being fired, by- order of the marquis of Newcastle. Aftei the town, in 1 6 14, fell into the hands of the army of the parliament, the House of Commons began both to govern it and to manage the coal trade themselves. In January, 1645. they also ordered five hundred tens of the coals of delinquents to be granted to the corporation of Newcastle, for the use of the poor and infected of that place, and, among other purposes, towards re- pairing its walls. Calamities, however, were felt un- der the reign of the patriots. In the winter of 1648, fuel was so excessively scarce, that many of the poor in London, were literally starved to death ; a circum- stance at that time attributed to sir Arthur Hasilrigge, governor of Newcastle, for his severe imposition oi 4s 8 a chaldron on coals in that port; but this oppression was soon after removed. " Many thousand pe )ple," says Grey, in his Cho- rographia, printed in 1649, u are employed in this trade of coals; many live by working tiieni in the 224 COAL TRADE. pits ; many live by conveying them in waggons and wains to the river Tine; many men are employed in conveying the coals in keels, from the staiths, a-board the ships : one coal merchant employeth five hundred, or a thousand, in his works of coal, yet, for all his labour, care, and cost, can scarce live of his trade ; nay, many of them have consumed and spent great estates, and died beggars. I can remember one of many, that raised his estate by the coal trade ; many I remember that have wasted great estates. I shall illustrate this by a story of two Spaniards, brothers, who travelled into the West Indies, with that estate and means they had acquired: One of the brothers was a miner, to employ many slaves in silver mines; the other brother was to be an husbandman, to pro- vide corn, sheep, and other provisons for the miner and his men ; much silver was got out of the ground by these miners ; the husbandman got monies out of his stock for his commodities. After many years delving and labouring in these silver-mines, at last the mines were exhausted and decayed, and all the money, which he had got for many years labour and cost, was run into his brother's the husbandman's hands, and all his stock upstanding ; he living all that time of the profit that his ground yielded." " So it is with our coal-miners; they labour and are at great charge to maintain men to work their collieries; they waste their own bodies with care, and their collieries with working ; the kernel being eatea out of the nut, there remaineth nothing but the shell ; their collieries are wasted and their monies consumed. This is the uncertainty of mines ; a great charge, the profit uncertain." COAL TRADE. 225 li Some South gentlemen, upon hope of benefit, come into this country to hazard their monies in coal- mines. Mr Beaumont, a gentleman of great ingenuity and rare parts, adventured into our mines, with his 30,000: , who brought with : .im many rare engines, not known thea in these parts; as the art to bore with iron rods, to try the deepness and thickness of the coal; rare engines to draw water out of the pits; waggons with one horse to carry down coals from the pits to the staiths, to the river, &c. within a few years, he consumed all his money, and rode home up- on his light horse." " Some Londoners, of late, have disbursed their monies for the reversion of a lease of colliery, about thirty years to come of the lease : When they come to crack their nuts, they find nothing but shells; nuts will not keep thirty years; there is a swarm of worms under ground that will eat up all before their time ; they may find some meteors, Ignis fatuus y instead of a mine." " Now this trade of coal began not past four score years since. Coals, in former times, were only used by smiths, and for burning of lime. Woods in the South part of England decaying, and the city of London and other cities and towns growing populous, made the trade for coal increase yearly, and many great ships of burthen built, so that there were more coa T s vended in one year, than were in seven years, forty years by-past. This great trade hath made this town to flourish in all trades." # In 1655, about three hundred and twenty coal * See Harleian Miscel, xi, 263, 364. 226 COAL TRAD2. keels appear to have been employed on the Tyne, each of which, in that year, carried eight hundred Newcastle chaldrons. On the twentieth of August, 1662, a petition, praying for redress of grievances inflicted by the coal-owners and overmen, was signed by two thousand colliers, in order to be presented to his majesty, but was never sent. A political speculator, in a work called * The Grand Concern of England/ printed in London, in 1673, among various other proposals for bettering the state of the nation, advises that this trade in future, be managed by commissioners empowered to supply all parts of his majesty's dominions with coals. " I need not," says he, " declare how the subjects are abused in the price of coals; how many poor have been starved for want of fewel by reason of the horrid prices put upon them, especially in tkne of war, either by the merchant, or the woodmonger, or between them both. The price at that time, he computes at about 7s. a Newcastle chaldron ; the freight at 6s. the city duty at 3s.; and lighterage, wharfage, and cartage, at 4s. u If, then, three Newcastle chal- drons, computed at 3l. make five London chaldrons, and they be sold at 51. 10s. there is very nigh half in half gotten thereby : considering then, how many hun- dred thousand chaldron of coals are spent every year, by a moderate computation, it will appear that near 200,0001. per annum advantage may arise hereby to the public, and the subject also receive a great bene- fit by the same." Sir William Petty, in his Political Arithmetic, es- timates the coal shipping of Newcastle, in 1676, at COAL TRADE. 227 about eighty thousand tons, of which a considerable part was probably foreign built; for, in 1685, we find an act of Parliament laying a duty of 5s. a ton on all such shipping, under the plea of the serious de- cay of ship building in the ports of Newcastle, Hull, Yarmouth, Ipswich, and other ports on the eastern coasts of England, occasioned by the great encourage- ment to foreign ships. In 1699, says Mr Brand, fourteen thousand ships are reported to have been employed in this trade, carrying three hundred thousand Newcastle chaldrons annually to London, of which two-thirds went from Newcastle : the oversea trade employed nine hundred thousand tons of shipping. The masters of the Trin- ity-House, in answer to a proposition of the House of Commons, in 1703, asserted that six hundred ships one with another, each of eighty Newcastle chaldrons, with four thousand five hundred men, were requisite for carrying on this great branch of commerce. u A number both of ships and men, that had been engag- ed therein for three years last past." From 1704 to 1710, the average annual export from Newcastle, was one hundred and seventy-eight thousand one hundred and forty-three ; from Sunderland, sixty-five thousand seven hundred and sixty chaldrons. In 1764, the trade from the Tyne encreased coastways twenty thousand chaldrons, London measure, and forty thou- sand, like measure, into foreign parts ; and in this year, three thousand seven hundred and twenty-seven vessels cleared from that river for the coast, and three hundiea and sixty-five for foreign parts, all coal laden# On an average for six years, ending at Christmas, £28 COAL TRADE. 1776, there were annually cleared at the Custoni- House of Newcastle, two hundred and sixty thousand chaldrons to London ; ninety thousand to other British ports; two thousand to British colonies ; and twenty- seven thousand to other foreign parts — in all three hundred and eighty thousand Newcastle chaldrons. The following Synopsis of this trade, from New- castle, is drawn from an authentic source : Year. Coastwise. Oversea. Plantations. Total Chaldsm 1802 494,488 ' 41,157 2,844 538,489 1803 505,137 42,808 1,516 549,461 3804 579,929 48,737 3,852 632,518 1805 552,827 47,213 2,360 602,400 1806 587,719 44,858 1,249 633,826 1807 534,371 25,494 1,848 561,713 1808 6i3,786 14,635 1,026 629,447 1809 550,221 12 640 1,992 564,853 1810 622,573 16,9">1 2,310 641,834 1811 634,371 15,818 2,136 652,325 Blythb, being considered as a member of the port of Newcastle, in 1610, had a duty of Is a chaldron laid on all coals exported from it ; but a petition, representing them as places of distinct inter- est, being presented to the House of Commons, the duty was ordered " to be laid down and no more taken up." # In 1638, however, we find Newcastle, Blythe, and Berwick, paying to the king, " Is. per chaldron, costome, and to sell them again, to the city of London, not exceeding 17s. the chaldron, in the summer, and 19s. the chaldron, all the winter."f An ordinance of the Lords and Commons, in 1642, • Brand, ii, 276. f Gard, Epg. Griev, p. j6« COAL TRADE. 2Q.Q prohibited coai9 and salt from being exported from Blyth; but the trade in these articles was very flourishing here, while Newcastle continued to hold out against the army of the Parliament in 1644. Af- ter mentioning, with no little asperity, the civil and natural disadvantages that Northumberland laboured under in his time, Mr Gardiner says, " but it would be otherwise if gentlemen might be reimbursed for such sums of money, as they would expend, to vend coals out of Hartley, Blvthe and Bedlington rivers, which be convenient places to vend them at." # The coal trade at Color Coats excited the jealousy of the Newcastle hostmen, 1683. The average vend at Blythe and Hartley for seven years immediately be- fore the year 1797, was about 35,000 chaldrons; and during the last three years their exports were— in 1809, 48,052,— in 1810, 47,330 ; — in 1811, 53,958 Newcastle chaldrons of coals. Sunderland is mentioned with Blythe, in- 16 10, in the imposition of, and exemption from, Is. a chal- dron on coals exported. Bishop Morton, in 1634, granted a charter to this port, in which the specified articles of exportation are — sea-coals, grindstones, rubstones and whetstones :f it began to be of import- ance about the year 1654. The hostmen of New- castle, jealous of its increasing consequence, in 1661, endeavoured to shackle its coal trade with a duty of Is. a chaldron. From 1704 to 17 10, its average an- nual export was 65,760 chaldrons. We subjoin a table of the present extent of the vend of coal at this u • p. !*?• t Hutch t Durht vol, ii, p. 3**» 230 COAL TRADE. place, premising that the account of the staithmen is supposed to be extremely accurate. CUSTOM-HOUSE ACCOUNT. Totals-worn to by Tear. Coastwise * Foreign* Total, the Staithmen* 1806 £91,317 2,622 309,174 283,821 1807 291,317 4,274 295,591 297,531 1808 348,938 2,058 350,996 330,230 1809 324,455 973 325,428 311,837 1810 371,120 1,889 373,009 356,905 J 1811 317,740 1,729 333,034 317,740 " Ordinances of Parliament, 12th May, 1643. Ordained that there be a free and open trade in the ports of Sunderland, in the county of Durham, and Blithe in the county of Northumberland, to relieve the poor inhabitants thereabouts, by reason of the rapines and spoyis, those enemies of Newcastle have brought upon them, in those two counties, they all be- ing in great want and extremity.' 5 — Gardiner s Eng. Griev.p. 194. Number of men employed in this trade.— In 1792, Dr Macnab estimated* the num- ber of persons receiving employment from this trade, on the rivers Tyne and Wear, at 64,724, of whom 26,250 belonged to the Wear : and 6,704 were pit- men and boys belonging to collieries on the Tyne : the rest on the Tyne as follow : Fitters and runners — - - - 103 Keelmen, boys, boatmen, &c. 1547 Trimmers, ballast heavers, &c. - - - - 1000 Pilots and Foymen 500 Seamen and boys 8000 In building and repairing ships and keels 946 * In kh Letter on the Coal Trade, addressed to Mr Pitt, COAL TRADE. 231 Purveyors for ships and keels — - - - 1 100 Coal factors, clerks, heavers, ,&c. 2000 And if \ of these have families, and 7 ^g 425 three in a family unemployed 3 Total on theTyne supported by this Trade, 38,325 Mr Bailey in his " General View of the Agricul- ture of the County of Durham," printed in 1810, enumerates thirty-four watersale collieries in that county, which at that time annually vended 1,333,000 chaldrons of thirty-six bushels, and employed 7*011 men: in the same district he was also informed there were thirty-five landsale collieries, vending 147*080 chaldrons of thirty-six bushels, and employing 382 men. The keelmen on the Wear amounted to 750; casters, trimmers and fitters, to 507* " and as the coals carried to the Tyne are nearlv in the ratio of 8 to 5, of those carried to the Wear, the men em- ployed on the Tyne" in the Durham Coal Trade " will be about 2000, making the total on both rivers, 3,257. "9 So that from this calculation it appears the total number of men, employed in the above ca- pacities, in the county of Durham, is in the propor- tion of 10,650, to 1,480,080 thirty-six bushel chal- drons of coals. Besides these, however, this trade " gives employment to a great number of workmen of various descriptions, as carpenters, masons, smiths, founders, ropers, ship-builders, &c* Sec. Out of these no account could be obtained." f From Mr Bailey's tables it also appears, that the Avatersaie collieries of Durham annually send to the Tyne about 701,000 thirty-six bushel chaldrons of u2 232 COAL TRADE. coals, and employ 3,265 men in mining them : and, as this is nearly half the annual average export of this river, we conjecture that the Newcastle coal trade employs about 6,530 pitmen ; and, from the preced- ing data, that the total number of pitmen employed in the seasale collieries of Blythe, Hartley, Newcas- tle, and Sunderland, in 1810, amounted to 9>724. Coal Measure, — One Newcastle chaldron contains sixty-eight Winchester bushels, and weighs fifty-three hundred weight: eight of these chaldrons make one keel, and twenty-two of them one ten. A London chaldron is equal to thirty-six Winchester bushels. Probable Duration. — One chaldron of thirty- six bushels, says Mr Bailey, weighs twenty-eight cwt. and a cubic yard of coal one ton, consequently, with an annual vend of 1,333,000 thirty six- bushel chal- drons from the water-sale collieries, there are 1,866,200 cubic yards of coal every year wrought in the county of Durham. Taking, therefore, the average thick- ness of all the workable seams, added together, at five yards, and the extent of the coal field, in that county, at 40,000 acres, 365 years will elapse before the whole of it be raised. " This estimate is made on the supposition that the district is all whole coal ; but, as a considerable portion of it has been already wrought out, it is probable that there is not more coal left than will serve the consumption much more than 200 years." Dr. Mac Nab estimated the extent of the coal field of Northumberland and Durham, at twenty miles by fifteen, and supposed that one square mile COAL TRADE. 233 was sufficient for the consumption of one year and a quarter : a calculation that would extend the life of the coal trade to 375 years; but, to use the quaint language of Grey, as c the nuts have been cracked and the kernels eaten' in a large portion of this dis- trict, the period of its exit may be fixed at a much shorter date. Duty on Coal.— Edward the Third, in 1379, imposed a duty of 6d. a ton, every quarter of a year, upon ships trading from Newcastle with coals. How long this continued is uncertain. In 1421, there w r as " a custom payable to the king of £d a chaldron on all coals sold to persons not franchised in the port of Newcastle;" and, about the year 1599, queen Eliza- beth demanded such great arrears of this duty, that the town, finding itself unable to pay them, agreed to charge themselves and successors for ever to pay Is. per chaldron. On this affair Gardiner observes,* that u the queen conceived that twelve pence upon every chalder would be better for the future, and, well paid, would rise to a greater revenue then the two-pence in arrear could endamage." At this time the duty on coals exported beyond the seas was 5s. a chaldron. James the First revived the two-penny duty, and liis successor, besides the duty of twelve-pence, fettered the trade with several arbitrary impositions. Even the patriotic House of Commons on the 15th of July, 1664, loaded this trade with 4s. a chaldron duty on all coal shipped coastwise, a grievance which continued with few interruptions till the 11th of Sep- tember, 1648, when it was entirely taken off, u 3 * P. i* fi34 COAL TRADE. By an act of Parliament made in 1667, after the great fire in London, a duty of twelve-pence a chal- dron was granted to the lord mayor and others/ of that city, to enable them to rebuild it : this duty was only to continue till 1677, but not being found suffi- cient it was increased to 3s. a chaldron, to continue till 1687. Parliament also imposed a duty of 2s. per chaldron, or ton, on sea-coal imported into London, from May 1, 1670, to June 24, 1677, and 3s. per chaldron from the last date, to September 29, — three-fourths of the money raised by the former act, and one-half of it raised by the latter, to be employed in rebuild- ing fifty-two parish-churches, and one-fourth of this one-half to be applied exclusively to rebuilding St. Paul's. And, in 1685, another act laid on Is. 6d. a chaldron, to continue from September 29, 1687, to September 29, 1700, two-thirds whereof was ex- pended upon St. Pauls. On the 18th of September, 1677, king Charles II. granted to his natural son, Charles, duke of Rich" mond and Lenox, and failing him and his heirs, to Louise, duchess of Portsmouth, and the heirs of her body, the reversion of the twelve- pence, subject to an annuity of 5001. to sir Thomas Clarges, his heirs and assigns, at a yearly reserved rent of 11. 6s. 8d. This impost continued in the Richmond family till the year 1800, when they sold it to government for the yearly payment of 1 90001. a sum much inferior to its present value. In 1795, Parliament ordered 5s, a chaldron, of thirty-six bushels, Winchester measure, to be laid on COAL TRADE. 235 tliis article ; if exported from Scotland 5s. per ton, over and above all duties then existing. From this period the amount of duty has been too fluctuating, and the regulations imposed by Parliament too nu- muerous to particularize. We shall, therefore, close this head with enumerating the present duties paid in Newcastle, — coast duty Is. 4d. and town's dues 2d. a chaldron each. Paid in London, — King's duty, Qs. 4d.; war-taxes, 3s. 2d; metage, 8d,; orphans' duty, 6d.; and Id. market dues, per London chal- dron: also, \ d. lord mayor's dues, and Id. Trinity dues, per Newcastle chaldron. Corporation Dues. — Mr Brand informs us that the Corporation of Newcastle annually received 10,0001. in the latter end of the reign of queen Eliza- beth, frcm a duty of 4d. a chaldron on coals shipped from their port. In 1609, a decree of chancery con- firmed the payment of 2d. a chaldron on all coals shipped to Lynn Regis, in Norfolk, to the mayor and burgesses of Newcastle, " towards their charge in repairing wharfs, &c." From the letter quoted be- low, they seem to have demanded Is. a chaldron on coals exported to foreign countries ; # but on what plea does not appear. * " Mr Maior, I have receaved this very day lettres from the Rt. Honourable the Lord Treafurer and Lord Cottington requiring me to iett you understand that the 12 pence by the marchants, owners and masters of ships payd unto you, or to the factors or clerks of the office upon the forraine vent of sea-cole, must be restored unto the foresaid marchants and the rest which hath made payment thereof; and that there may be no delay herein, I shall deseire you that you will looke up- on their lettres of attorney for the receipt thereof,andto satis- fy them accordingly: and thus, &c." Indorsed " A copie of my Lord of Durham's lettre to Mr Maior to repaie the i2d a chaldron upon coles upon the forine vent of lea-coles."— trinity House fiwfo, 236 COAL TRADE. In 1643, the hostmen agreed to pay 3d per chal- dron, independent of the former 3d. for three years, to be applied to the defence of the town, and a year after extended this payment to four years; in 1645, however, we find this body petitioning the Commis- sioners of England and Scotland to take off the 3d. a chaldron, by which we should probably understand u the former 3d." The Common-Council, in 1650, ordered this impost to be paid in the town's chamber; and the same year the Trinity-House resolved to maintain their immemorial claim to 3d. a chaldron, of the hostmen, for their free parts of ships, which claim the mayor and common-council were surrep- titiously endeavouring to add to the revenue of the corporation. Twelve years after, the hostmen find- ing that endeavours were using to confirm this de- mand by an act of Parliament, they made an order to oppose the measure. In 1706, the hostmen made a fruitless attempt to rid themselves of the duty of Is. per chaldron, which their charter, made in the twenty-fourth year of queen Elizabeth, secured to that queen and her successors, kings and queens of England, for ever. Non-freemen of Newcastle, were regularly charged 4d. a chaldron in the town's chamber, for all the coal they exported, till the year 1793, when sir William Leigh ton commenced a suit against the mayor and corporation, in which it was proved that half the charge was groundless : the claim to it has > conse- quently, been relinquished, and the town's dues are now fixed at 2d, per chaldron, to every description of persons. COAL TfcADE. 237 Price of Coal. — Under this head it may be necessary to premise that the weight and quantity of gold and silver coin in circulation will always be re- gulated by the quantity of bullion in the market, and by the demand of it for private uses; that the price of human labour will be proportionate to the average supply of corn ; and that the average price of other necessary articles will be influenced by the price of human labour. This doctrine, however, is only gene- rally applicable to the coal trade ; for, as the consump- tion of coal depends much upon the state of the sea- sons and of our manufactures, and the supply of it is equally affected by the first of these causes, and by peace and war, the trade in it w ill, at times, be raised to dilirium, or sunk into lethargy, and its prices, ac- cording to the demand for it, be low, moderate, or exorbitant. The following table is collected from Mr Brand's History of Newcastle, from the Gentle- man's Magazine, and other authorized sources. Ytar. Prici j per Chaldron, Where told. 1395 £o 3s. , 4d. Whitby Ab 15 i 2 5 the best kind Alnwick G ib. 4 2 inferior ib. 1536 2 6 Newcastle, ib. 4 London, 1550 12 per load ib. 1582* 6 ib. 1585* 8 ib. 1590* 9 ib. 1626 7 6 Newcastle, 1653 9 ib. 1635 10 ib. * The advance in price, in these years, was attributed tQ the Grand lease. 238 COAL TRADE. Tear, Price per Chaldron, Where sold. 1637 # £0 17s. Od. summer London. ib. 19 winter ib. 1644 4 siege of Newc. &c. London. 1653 10 Newcastle. 1655$ 10 London. ib. )£ Newcastle. 1667§ 1 10 London. 1701 18 3 ib. ib. 10 6 Newcastle. 1703 11 ib. Staiths. — Stathe, stade, and steed, are Anglo- Saxon terms formerly applied to single fixed dwell- ings, or to places on the banks of rivers, where mer- chandise was stored up, and, at which, vessels could lie to receive it. In 13S8, the prior of Tynemouth let, for two years, at 40s. a year, a plot of ground; in Newcastle, upon which sea-coal had been usually laid up, and which was at the west head of a house, upon the Stat hes,* which in modern language is, as if one said, upon the wharf \ or upon the quay. In a lease of a colliery at Elswick, executed in 1538, provision was made for " sufficient Way leve and Stathe leve." The u Black Steath" stood near Hebburn Colliery, and is the only one marked on the map of the river * This year the king appointed a company of coal monopo- lizers, who were to purchase all the coals that could be export- ed from Sunderland, Newcastle, Blythe and Berwick, and pay to him a duty of is per chaldron; but not to sell them at more than the above prices in London. \ In this year it was agreed that 136 Newcastle chaldrons should equal 217 London chaldrons. § This maximum fixed by order of Parliament, * Quamdam placeam terre in villa predicta super quam earbones marini reponi consueverunt et que est ad austrafe caput domus quam predictus prior et suus conventus de Tyne- muth habent in predicta villa Novi Castri super le Stathes, &e. —-Brandy i'u l$$. COAL TRADE. QoQ Tyne, prefixed to Gardiner's England's Grievance, which was first published in 1655, These places were also formerly, and are, even yet, by the keelmen, called dikes, probably on account of their being diked or defended from the river, for dike, in the north of England, has always a mixed meaning be- tween defence and limit: in the present instance, however, it seems to have been peculiarly applied to those repositories for coal, which were uncovered: the stathes of the present day are provided with roofs/ under which coals are deposited in dead seasons of the trade; and with stages and spouts, from which they are poured into keels, or vessels, when the de- mand for them is immediate. Keels. — Ceol, as well as Scipurn 9 wsLS a general term for ships among the Anglo-Saxons ; though it seems we should fetch the origin of the word keel from keles of the Greeks, and the celox of the Ro- mans—a small swift sailing vessel. By statute of the 9th of Henry the V. cap. 10. commissioners were ap- pointed to measure the portage of keels on the river Tyne. Before that time they had been usually made to contain twenty chaldrons a-piece ; but, as person* not franchised of Newcastle, paid a duty of 2d. per chaldron to the king, in order to evade a part of it, they encreased the portage of their keels, unknown to the officers of the royal revenue : this statute, there- fore, went to order the true portage to be marked upon all these vessels, on pain of forfeiting them. At present they are made to contain eight chaldrons each. They are a strong, oval, clumsy-looking vessel, sometimes navigated by a square sail ; but generally 240 COAL TRADE. by two long oars — one on the side plied by two men and a boy, and one at the stern by one man, who not only assists the others' motion, but at the same time steers the keel and corrects the bias given by the side oar, # The stern oar is called the swape, probably from its great power, as the old, upright churns, which were wrought by a lever, and a half revolving axle, were called swape-churns. Chaucer says, — And swappe the fryer wyth bircan rodde. Suipan, in the Icelandic tongue, means a quick motion ; and to swap the door, in common language, is as much as to say, shut it violently. When, by contrary violent winds, neither sails nor oars can be used, the keels are pushed forward through the shallow parts of the river, by a long pole fixed a- gainst the bed of the river, and the keelmen's shoulder, while they walk on each gunnel from head to stern, in a strong, stooping position. This pole is called a pooey, a word seemingly akin to appuy, the name of the balancing pole of the French rope dancers. Formerly the holds of the keels were much below the gunnels, a circumstance which occasioned great labour in casting the lading : at present they are only about twenty inches from them, but, have a contrivance called a stage, to enlarge them on three sides with boards, which can be raised, lowered, or intirely taken away, according to the bulk of the lading. The Sunderland keels, on account of the shallow- ness of the Wear, are broader and more flat-bottomed than those of the Tyne, and are generally managed by one man, or by an old man and a boy. * Sec Stukt Itin. and Pennant's North, four. COAL TRADE* £41 Keelmen. — The bargemen of Tynemouth priory, In 1378, were called Kelers. The person who man- ages the swape is the captain of the keel, and, as in Dutch sloops, is called the skipper, which in modem language signifies the ship's man. We read of riots and combinations for increase of wages and redress of grievances among this body of men in 1654, 1710, 1750, 1776, 1794, and 1809. A combina- tion for such purposes is, both by the colliers and keelmen, called a ' Steek/ that is a sticking or re- fraining from their master's work, and an obstinate ad- herence to their own demands. They formerly call- ed themselves keel bullies, or keel brethren, but the term has now almost lost its better signification, and is used by way of reproach. The women who swept out the keels, at Newcastle quay, as they passed from the ships, were styled keeldeeters: to deet, means to cleanse, and, applied to corn, has the same force as to zcinnow: this practice is now discontinued. At the forty eighth page of this volume, we enlarged upon the origin and revenues of the Hospital belonging to this body; at present, we have only to add, that they have an annual procession through the streets of New- castle, on Saint John's day, the anniversary of the estabhsment of their society. Waggon-Ways were, till of late years, construct- ed entirely of square w r ooden rails laid in two right parallel lines, on wooden sleepers ; but all the new ones are of cast iron rails, which rest upon sleepers of stone. Their origin is doubtful. In the year 1600, among other regulations made " at a Court*'* of the hostmen's company, wains were ordered to be x COAL TRADE. all measured and marked, for it appeared, " that from tyme out of mynd yt hath been accustomed that all cole waynes did usuallie cary and bring eighte bouiSs of coles to all the staythes upon the ry ver of Tyne," but of late several had brought only or scarce seven boils. The same record mentions " two small maunds or pannyers holdinge two or three pecks a-piece." From which passages it plainly appears that coals at this time were not only led in carts along the ordinary roads, but that a practice then prevailed of conveying them on horse-back. Among the rest of the " rare engines" introduced by master Beaumont into the coal trade, one was " Waggons with one horse, to carry down coales from the pits to the staiths to the river."* Lord Keeper Guilford, in 167 6, thus describes them : " The man- ner of the carriage is by laying rails of timber from the colliery down to the river, exactly straight and parallel; and bulky carts are made with four rowlers, fitting these rails, whereby the carriage is so easy, that one horse will dr^w down four or five chaldron of coals, and is an immense benefit to the coal mer- chants." " Mr Hutchinson,* in his History of Du» ham, says, that waggon-ways were first made and used in this county, by Colonel Liddell, of Ravensworth; but, upon examining the books at Ravensworth castle, * See quotation, at p. %%$ • This author, in his View of Northumberland, vol. ii. p. 416, asserts that " waggon ways were first used in this neigh- bourhood, soon after the Revolution, by Mr Allan, of Flatts, in the county of Durham; and on the Tyne, bv Charles Mon- tague, Esq ; at Stella; but he advances no authority for the assertion. COAL TRADE. 243 Mr Robson (the present agent) informs me, that the first sraiHi bills are in 1671, in the time of sir Thomas Liddell Colonel Iiddeli's grandfather, and seven years b fore the colonel was born. Joshua French was then staithman, and from his bills, beginning with that year, it appears that coals were then led by wag- gons to Team staith "f In declivities, where the convoy has not power to regulate the full waggon downwards, and one horse is insufficient to draw it upwards when empty, recourse has been had to the simple but effectual contrivance of fixing a large coiling wheel at the head of an In- clined Plane, and after uniting the waggons with the rope of the coihng-wheel, drawing the light waggon up by the weight of the laden one. This invention originated with the late ingenious Mr Barnes, and was first put in practice at the colliery at Benwell. It is described in the third volume of the Agricultural Magazine. In situations where the laden waggons have to. ascend declivities, the counterbalanc- ing power is obtained from a steam engine at the head of an inclined plane, as at Ayton-banks, on the Urpeth waggon-Way: the White House inclined plane, on this way, is sixteen hundred yards in length : six laden waggons, sometimes nine, bring up as many empty ones here: the rope which it is now using, June the eighth, 1812, was first employed, May the six- teenth, 1810. Through the other parts of this way, one horse draws three waggons chained together, both to the colliery and to the staith. f Bailey'e Surv. of Durh. p. 3^, 244 COAL TRADE* These waggons at first were emptied by shovels: at present they have a trap-door in their bottom for this purpose. The convoij, otherwise called the tiller, used to retard the motion of the waggon in descents, where no horse is required, till of late was only ap- plied to one wheel, but by a modern contrivance has been extended to both. " The size of a waggon, to carry fifty hundred weight of coals, is as follows : Length at the top, seven feet nine inches, breadth at the top, five feet; length at the bottom, five feet, breadth at the bottom, two feet six inches; perpen- dicular height, four feet three inches. "* Origin of coal. — Whether the different strata of coal, like those of clay and lime which accompany them, are to be ranked among the substances coeval with the creation of the globe, or they are to be classed among those secondary productions of nature, formed by inundations of the sea, depositions in water, or vol- canic convulsions of the world, is a matter of enquiry still at issue among philosophers. Certain it is, how- ever, that in all the strata which accompany this sub- stance, abundant remains of animals and vegetables are daily discovered, and that coal itself is often mixed with the forms of organized bodies. The coal in the parish of Bovey, near Exeter, is found in large masses, re- sembling the trunks and branches of trees rudely crushed together. Similar phenomena have also been observed in Iceland, near Luxemburgh, at Brull, near Cologn and Bonn, and at the bottom of that chain of mountains which runs from Lyons to Stras- burgh. • Edin. Encyc, in vcrbo, Coahry* COAL TRADE. 245 u All the strata incumbent on coal contain a great variety of vegetables, or the impressions of them; and particularly the bamboo of India, striated and jointed at different distances; the Euphorbia of the East In- dies, the American ferns, corn, grass, and many other species of the vegetable kingdom, not known to exist in any other part of the world in a living state They are inclosed in the solid substance of 5 tone and clay."* The roofs of some of the coal mines near Dipton are variegated with impressions of jointed canes, ferns, vetches, &c. The schistus beds in the Holling-Hill pit, near Felling, afforded beautiful specimens of pine cones, ears of barley, and roots of turnips, the last of which were converted into iron-stone. In the schistus beds in the colliery at South Shields are also fre»- quently discovered the shells of cockles and of other marine animals. Sometimes large trees are found, extending out of the strata of indurated clay, into those of sand-stone, as at Kenton, where are seats of stone, hewn out of one of these remarkable fossils, that shew the yearly rings of the tree and the roughness of the bark: As far as the rock was cut through, this tree could be traced even to its smallest branches ; and the stratum in which its roots were fixed seemed one uninterrupted continuation of vegetable impres- sions, a circumstance which strongly favours the con- jecture, that in some convulsion, or deluge of the earth, the outer surface was covered with soft clay, which thus received and preserved the impressions of the plants which it buried, x 3 * Whitehurst's Orig. and Form. p. aoj, 246 COAL TRADE* il It is matter worthy of notice, that the superior strata contain iron-stone, coal, and vegetable impres- sions, but no marine productions whatever. And that the inferior strata, which are limestone, contain the exuviae of marine animals, but no vegetable forms." We conclude the preceding observations in the words of the judicious Whitehurst : " As all strata accompanying coal, universally abound with vegetable forms, it seems to indicate that all coal were origin* ally derived from the vegetables thus enveloped in the stone or clay. And we may say as much of the origin of iron ; for the same strata also produce iron- stone; for wherever vegetables are observed to de- cay in stagnant ditches, the waters thereof appear ©chrey." # Different species of coal. — Coal, as a genus, is described by naturalists as a solid, inflam- mable, and bituminous substance, which, alter its oil and other volatile principles are expelled, can sustain a red heat without further decomposition. Accord- ing to Williams, there are six different species of it. 1. Newcastle, or Caking Coal, which from its fat, bituminous nature, burns to a cinder, and emits a thick smoke : the best varieties of it produce very lit- tle ashes. Kirwan says it is composed of charcoal and bitumen, mixed with a small quantity of argil; it is also commonly debased with pyrites and other foul admixtures. Its specific gravity is from 1,25, to 1,37* It abounds in the counties of Northumberland and Durham, and forms the great staple of the trade • p. ao4, COAL TRADE. 247 of the ports of Newcastle and Sunderland. In Scot- land, it is called cherry coal, and is found in consider- able abundance, at Balmule, near Dumfermline, in Fifeshire. 2. Rock coal commonly burns to a cinder, and produces a few ashes, but does not, like caking-coal, melt and run together in the lire. There are many varieties of it, some of which are excellently adapted to culinary purposes, but most of them more produc- tive of ashes than the caking-coal. It is found in great plenty " in the counties of Edinburgh, Linlith- gow, Fife, Stirling, Lanark, and other parts of Scot- land; and likewise in Shropshire, and several other parts of England." 3 Splent coal burns freely, is stratified with re- markable regularity, and breaks with difficulty across the bed of the strata, but at the natural transverse cutters it ea ily splints into thin broad flags like boards, which kindle almost as readily and burn as freely as the bituminous pines. A variety of it, which is of a bright, lustrous black, and " is amongst the best coal in the world for culinary and all domestic uses, is called run splent by the Scotch colliers." This spe- cies is very common in all the coal districts in Scot- land, and in some parts of England. 4. Cannel- coal, also called parrot-coal, has its name from its burning with a clear, bright flame, like a candle, which, in the dialects of Scotland ana some of the northern counties of England, is pronounced cannel. As it is of a good black colour, has a smooth, solid, and uniform texture, and takes a good polish on the lathe, it is often turned into different sorts of ves- 248 COAL TRADE. sels, and made to answer many of the purposes of jets'. It is found in great abundance in different parts of Scotland; but the finest of it is obtained atHaigh, near Wiggan, in Lancashire, where it rises in large blocks. The beds are about three feet in thickness, dip one yard in twenty, and are found at great depths, with a Mark bass above and below. A sum- mer-house at Haigh Hall is entirely built of cannel- coal.* 5. Culm } or blind coal, has the singular property of emitting neither flame nor smoke; but burns with a clear, strong, glowing heat like charcoal. iS It is re- markable," says Williams, " that when a quantity of culm has been all on fire in a grate or furnace, and after every particle of it has been burning with a clear, glowing heat,/ when the fire is either extinguished or suffered to go out of itself, what little culm remains in the grate or furnace, has no marks of fire upon it. Even the surfaces of the small bits, which remain un- consumed, retain the same glossy black colour, the same texture and bright appearance as before, and partly of some other species of flaming coals." 6. " Jet has a near resemblance of the finer varie- ties of cannel-coal, excepting that the cannel-coal has an uniform texture, without any visible grain, and bieaks in any direction with equal ease; whereas jet has the apparent grain of wood, not readily breaking across, but it cleaves easily length-ways, like the splent- coals. It is found in England, and in other parts of the world, in detached masses of various sizes lodged in other strata," or in clay pits. Mr Williams ii* * Aikia's Manchester, p. 395. COAL TRADE. * "249 dulges the supposition that there are strata of it with- in the solid supeificies of the globe, as well as of the other fossil coals, specimens of all which are found in like situations anrt circumstances as jet. Stratification — Over the surface of the whole globe it will b- found, on attentive observation, thafcAthere are two distinct systems of stratification, evidently formed at different periods of the world : one of these, philosophers call Primeval, the other Secondary. The frimeval stratification consists of beds or parallel masses of porphyre, granite, schistus, lime- stone, and different other species of stone, always lying in a direction perpendicular, or diagonal, to the horizon, as if they radiated from the centre of the earth, or were the keystones to the mighty arch of the abyss or Tartarus of the ancients No shells, vegetables, nor other species of organized bodies are ever found amongst them ; no stratum of granulated sandstone ; no rounded stones; nor any thing to form the least shadow of proof that the world had been girt with a zone of waters, or tenanted with any species of living creature prior to their creation. This sort of stratification runs through the western parts of Scotland, Cumberland, Westmorland, and Wales. The secondary kind of stratification consists of layers of granulated sand-stone, lime-stone, indurated clay, iron- stone, and coal. It always lies in a sloping, horizontal direction, and is intimately mixed with the remains of various organized bodies. Shells, and the exuviae of marine animals, are most abundant in the 250 COAL TRADE. different species of lime-stone; the beds of schistic or indurated clay are impressed with multitudes of vegetable forms; and the strata of sand-stone, in which the fewest petrefactions of plants or animals are found, have retained the forms of forest trees, al- ligators, and other strong bodies. It is also remark- able that many of the schistus beds not only yield a large quantity of alum, and are strongly impregnated with marine salt ; but that they are mixed with nodu- les of iron, in the centre of which, shells of cockles, mussells, and especially in the neighbourhood of "Whitby, the C rnua Ammonis — the beautiful shell of the Nautilus, still retaining many of its spangling hues, are found converted into rich ore of iron. Between the primeval and secondary systems there is also generally found a chain of hills, consisting of various kinds of rounded stones, pebbles, sand, and breccias, mingled with micaceous spangles, and firm- ly agglutinated together with a black coloured mud, as if they had originated in the chaos of waters which immediately preceded the morning when i( on the watry calm His brooding wings the spirit of God outspread And vital virtue infused, and vital varmth Throughout the fluid mass, but downward purged The black, tartareous, cold, infernal dregs Adverse to life/' These hills, too, are always of a conical or of some other sweetly rounded figure, a coincidence which fa- vours the conjecture, that they were formed by the vertiginous fury of the " vast immeasureable abyss, COAL TRADE. 251 Outrageous as a sea, dark, wasteful, wild, Up from the bottom turned by furious winds and Surging waves." The system of stratification, to which the coal fields of Northumberland and Durham belong, commences on the primary rocks, in Westmorland, Cumberland, and the Cheviot-hills. Its lowest stratum, in some places, is a red, gritty schistus, imbedded with large balls of iron-stone, as in the channel of the Lowther, below the Abbey of Shap ; and near Rosegill Hall, in Westmorland ; at other places it consists of thin al- ternate layers of lime-stone, sand stone and schistus, as may be seen near Linbrid^e, in Coquet-dale, and in Cottonshope,in Redesdale. The lower and middle courses of strata, such as commence in the mountain of Crossfel 1 , and about Harnham, in Northumber- land, are very various in their thickness, and consist of schistus, lime-stone, and sand-stone, of unequal specific gravity ; but, generally, very solid and com- pact : while the lime-stone continues, the coal is in thin seams, and of a soft and sulphureous quality: but as soon as the highest courses appear, which almost exclusively consist of alternate beds of schistus, sand- stone, and coal, the veins of coal are more numerous, thicker, and of a very superior quality. The follow- ing section will serve to illustrate this paragraph. Bampton Fells* Knife Scar* CrossfclL Newcastle* £52 COAL TRADE. Each stratum, though of a compound quality, is with respect to those above and below it perfectly homogenous ; that is, a stratum of schistus may lie be- tween two layers of sandstone ; and though it be mix- ed with iron and petrified vegetables, yet the sand- stone uniformly keeps a regular parallelism with the upper and lower surface of the schistus stratum, with- out ever mixing with it ; and so with respect to the rest. But exceptions from this, as from other gene- ral rules, may be found, In both the high and low main, in the coal mines at Felling, a bed of schistus, called the Heworth band, commences nearly under the high-way from Newcastle to Sunderland, and gradually increases towards the south, in the form of a wedge, dividing that, which at the river Tyne was one seam of coal, into two distinct seams, which at the river Wear are many fathoms asunder. Many of the strata, indeed, are somewhat in the form of a double wedge, imperceptible both in their origin and conclusion. The wedge, called the Heworth band, consists of different strata of sand-stone and schistus, in the Sunderland coal district. This, we believe, is the principal kind of horizontal irregularity in the se- condary strata. A variety of perpendicular and di- agonal fractures, denominated troubles; and by the miners in the neighbourhood of Newcastle particular- ized into backs, hitches, dikes, and troubles, rend the whole strata asunder from the top to the bottom, and divide the great coal field into thousands of lesser in- closures^ COAL TRADE. ®5S The perpendicular black lines in this section repre- sent dikes: the oblique lines bb are slip dikes, and cc are hitches as far as they extend through the secondary strata : in the primeval strata they represent the partings or backs between the beds of porphyre, granite, &c. The lines aaa represent coal veins : the perpendicu- lar white lines are shafts of a coal pit ; and the white sloping lines, the excavations made in working away the coal veins. The section is made on the supposi- tion that the horizontal strata commenced on an un- even foundation, and were formed by depositions of organized bodies, lime, sand, mud, and clay, in al- ternate desertions and returns of the ocean. Backs are perpendicular chinks, having no other effect than to divide the seam between the roof and the floor by a narrow crevice, sometimes beautifully polished, and at others filled with dusty feruginous particles, filtered downwards from beds of iron-stone for these chinks extend through the whole thickness of the strata. When the seam is thrown from its re- gular inclination, by parallel segments ot a circle, the place is called a skew. Y 254 COAL TRADE. Hitches raise or depress portions of strata in a small degree; but never remove one parting, either upwards or downwards, out of sight of the other. Dikes are perpendicular rendings-asunder of the solid strata, sometimes two or three feet broad, some- times several fathoms. They seldom break the uni- form inclination of the strata, though they almost al- ways shatter and debase its quality to a considerable distance on each side of them. They have their spe- cific names from the substances with which they are filled. The Whin-dikes are filled with basalt, a substance that has apparently issued hot from the interior parts of the earth, as the coal veins on each side of it are reduced to a cinder, and the other strata severely scorched. Of this kind, a remarkable one extends from Ayton in Cleveland, by Bolam, in a right line, to jCockfield Fell, in the county of Durham, where it is a down-cast to the north of three fathoms ; u the breadth is seventeen yards of whin-stone, which seems to have been in a state of fusion when it filled up the fracture ; as the seam of coal, for some feet dis- tance on each side, is turned to a sooty substance, which becomes a cinder as the distance from the whinstone increases, and by degrees assumes the na- tural appearance of coal, with all its properties: this takes place about fifty yards from the whinstone. On the under surface of the stratum, incumbent on that part of the seam which is converted into cinder, there is much ore of sulphur, in angular forms, of a beauti- ful bri°ht yellow. The cinder burns clear, without I any smoke, and keeps a durable heat." # Whin-dikes | * Bailey's Surv f of Durban*, p. 33. COAL TRADE. 255 are also found at Butterby, near Durham, and in the colliery at Walker, near Newcastle. The Stone-dikes are filled with softer and more imperfect materials than those of whin, though some of them are both hard and dry. In general, however, they are full of horizontal and longitudinal fissures, and let down considerable quantities of water. Clay dikes are the most numerous. They are generally dry, and have the property of turning " wa- ter so effectually, as to force it to rise to the surface, and burst out in wells or springs, which are often in- dications of dikes, by a series of them being found in a right line." Rubbish-dikes are filled with sand, clay, and rounded stones, apparently swept from the surface in- to the chasm, by the agency of water. They always produce much water, and are a great inconvenience to coal mines; except when they happen to cross a glen, towards a low river, and leave the coal-field dry* Slip- dikes, among the strata of lime-stone, are the great receptacles of metals and beautiful spars. In the coal-fields they are usually filled with hard masses of the substances of the adjoining strata, con- fusedly mingled together. They have their name fronv the idea that they were caused by large fields of strata slipping, or sinking, from their original situation. They do not alter the general dip ; but merely separ- ate the corresponding strata, either upwards or down- wards, in an oblique direction. When the miner approaches one of these, and finds the vein, corres- ponding to that which he has been working, thrown Y 2 £55 COAL TRADE. below his feet, he calls it a down-cast-dyke : but, if it be thrown upwards, it is then an up-cast-dyke» Troubles may be called dikes of the least de- gree: they are not real separations, but crazy and shattered irregularities of the strata. They cause sudden, but short alterations of the dip, and, in these cases, debase the coal and its concomitant strata, and throw the backs, partings, and cutters into confusion. We have before noticed that the secondary strata lie in a sloping, horizontal direction. This, amongst colliers, is called the Rise and Dip, which, with partial exceptions, are from south-west to north-east, Eacli stratum, with respect to those above and be- low it, always keeps the same parallelism and incli- I nation ; as in some mea- | sure may be seen in the an- I nexed figure, in which the stratum a has slipped from | its corresponding stratum at aa. When this inclination is towards the east, it is called an east dip, and a west rise; and thus it re- ceives its name in every other instance from the point of the horizon to "which it inclines. In some places, it is nearly level: in the hills about Sewing- sheels and Haltwhistle, the dip towards the south is rapid ; and, on the sea shore, a little south of Ber- wick-upon-Tweed, it is nearly perpendicular, and gives to the face of the strata, within water-mark, the appearance of a fine variegated pavement. These sud^ COAL TRADE. £57 den interruptions are, however, in general caused by dikes, bitches, and troubles; for in each separate field of stratification, the inclination is generally the same through all its parts; and the first bias appears to have been given to it from the kind of foundation on which it commenced* As some strata are found to increase, and others to diminish in thickness, while those .above and below them remain the same, the inclination and parallelism, in such cases, receive a like gradual alteration. Some have falsely supposed that valLys are the lines of dikes, and that the mountains lifted up their heads, when the earth, in some mighty distraction, through one fissure ejected lava and fire, and at another w as fed with stones and sand by the troubled sea ; but, ex- perience refutes this notion. The strata are as little broken in the beds of rivers as on the highest moun- tains, and keep their parallelism, inclination, and strength, from hills to valleys, with undeviatiug regu- larity. The irregularities occasioned in the solid strata, by dikes, are commonly covered over and made even by those beds of gravel, clay, sand, or soil, which form the outward surface of the earth. Wherever the softer matters have been carried off, or removed by accident, as on the tops of hills and the sides of valleys, the dip, rise, and sections of strata may be easily examined; but no certain conclusion can be drawn merely from the unevenness and ine- qualities of the outward surface. Strata connected with Coal. — The strata are not found disposed in the earth according to their y 3 £58 COAL TRADE. specific gravities; iron-stone and the closest marbles are often found near the surface, and fifty or one hun- dred fathoms below them beds of schistus and of coal, substances much inferior in specific gravity. In short no accurate judgement can be formed of the true dis- position of the strata, from their specific gravities : a comparison, however, between the following list and example of strata, will illustrate this subject. 1. Whinstone is the hardest and most irregular of all the secondary strata. It is generally found in dikes ; and often forces itself from these fissures to a great distance, in the form of a wedge, in the same manner as the toad-stone of Derbyshire. The an- gular pieces of it will cut glass; it is of a very coarse texture, and, when broken across the grain, exhibits the appearance of large grains of sand, half vitrified ; it can scarcely be wrought, or broken in pieces, by common tools, without the assistance of gunpowder. Each stratum is commonly homogeneous in substance and colour, and cracked in the rock to a great depth. The true species of it has always the appearance of having undergone the process of fire, though many varieties of sand-stone are vulgarly mistaken for it. The most common colour of these strata are black, or dark blue, yet there are others, ash coloured and light brown. Their thickness in all the coal countries are but inconsiderable, from five or six feet to a few inches. In the air it decays a little, leaving a brown powder, and in the fire it cracks, and turns to a reddish brown. Li M e-st o N E, and what is called bastard lime-stone, is sometimes, though rarely, met with in collieries. COAL TRADE. 25ft It is well known; but, from its resemblance in hard- ness and colour, is often mistaken for a kind of whin. Sometimes, particularly in hilly countries, the solid matter next the surface is found to be a kind of rotten whin; but, it may be noted, that this is only a mass of heterogeneous matter disposed upon the regular strata; and that beneath this, all the strata are found in as re- gular an order as where this heterogeneous matter does not occur. 2. Post-Stone is a free-stone of the hardest kind, and next to the lime- stone, with respect to hard- ness and solidity. It is of a very fine texture, and, when broken, appears as if composed of the finest sand. It is commonly found in a homogeneous mass, though variegated in colour ; and, from its hardness, is not liable to injury from being exposed to the weather. Of this kind of stone there are four varieties, which may be distinguished by the colour : the most com- mon is white post, which, in appearance, is like Port- land stone, but considerably harder; it is sometimes variegated with spots of brown, red, or black. Grey post is also very common; it appears like a mixture of fine black and white sand : it is often va- riegated with brown and black streaks. The last men- tioned appear like small clouds, composed of particles of coal. Brown or yellow post is often met with of different degrees of colour; most commonly of the colour of light ochre, or yellow sand. It is as hard as the rest, and sometimes variegated with white and black streaks. Red post is generally of a dull ; red colour. This is £80 COAL TRADE. but rarely met with in Northumberland and Durham ; it is often streaked with white or black. All these lie in strata of different thicknesses, but commonly thicker than any other stratum whatever. They are separated from each other, and from other kinds of strata, by partings of coal, sand, or soft mat- ter, of different colours, which are very distinguish- able. 3. Sand-stone. — This is a free-stone of a coars- er texture than post, and not so hard ; is so lax as to be easily pervious to water; when broken, is ap- parently of a coarse, sandy substance; is friable, and moulders to sand when exposed to the wind and rain ; has frequently white shining spangles in it, and peb- bles, or other small stones, enclosed in its mass. Of this, there are two kinds commonly met with, distin- guished by their colours, grey and brown, which are of different shades, lighter or darker, in proportion to the mixture of white in them. It is most generally found in strata of considerable thickness, without many secondary partings; and sometimes, though rarely, it is sub-divided into layers as thin as the com- mon grey slate. It has, generally, sandy or soft partings. 4. Metal-stone, — This is a tolerably hard stratum, being, in point of hardness, next to sand- stone ; generally solid, compact, of considerable weight, and of an argillaceous substance, containing many nodules or balls of iron stone, and Yellow or white pyrites ; its partings, on the surface of its strata, are hard, polished, and smooth as glass. When. broken, COAL TRADE. 26l it has a dull, dusky appearance, like hard, dried clay, mixed with particles of coal. Though hard in the mine or quarry, when exposed to the fresh air, it falls into very small pieces. The most usual colour of this stone is black ; but there are several other lighter colours, down to a light brown or grey. It is easily distinguished from free-stone, by its texture and colour, as well as by its other charac- teristics. It lies in strata of various thicknesses, though seldom so thick as the two last mentioned kinds of stone. 5. Schistus, or Shiver, is more frequently met with in collieries than any other stratum. There are many varieties of it, both in hardness and colour ; but they all agree in one general characteristic. Tne black colour is most common ; it it called by the miners black shiver, black metal, or bleas. It is soft- er than metal-stone, and in the mine is rather a tough than a hard substance ; it is not of a solid or compact matter, being easily separable, by the multitude of its partings, and readily absorbing water. The substance of this stratum is an indurated bole, commonly divid- ed into thin lamina of unequal thicknesses, which break into long, small pieces when struck with force, and, on examination, they appear to be small irregu- lar rhomboids: each of these small pieces has a polished glassy surface; and, when broken across the grain, appears of a dry, leafy texture, like exceedingly fine clay. It is very friable, feels to the touch like an unctuous substance, and dissolves in air or water to a fine pinguid black clay. There are almost con* £62 COAL TRADE. stantly found enclosed in its strata, lumps or nodules of iron stone, and often real beds of it. 6. Coal. — In all places where coal is found there are generally several strata of it. Perhaps all the dif- ferent kinds before enumerated will be found in some, and only one oi the kinds in others ; yet this one kind may be divided into many different seams or strata, by beds of shiver, or other kinds of matter interposing, so as to give it the appearance of so many separate strata. All these strata, with their several varieties, do not lie or bear upon each other in the order in w r hich they are described, nor in any certain or invariable order. Though they be thus found very different in one colliery or district, from what they are in another, witlv respect to their thicknesses, and the order in which they lie upon each other, yet we never meet with a stratum of any kind of matter, but what be- longs to some of those above described. To illustrate how the various strata lie in some places, and how often the same stratum may occur betwixt the surface and the coal, we shall give the following example. The numbers on the left hand column refer to the classes of strata before described ; the second column contains the names of the strata, and the four numer- al columns to the right hand express the thickness of each stratum in fathoms, yards, feet, and inches. No. Fs. Tds. Ft. In. Soil and gravel 1 1 Clay mixed with loose stones - — 1 10 3 Coarse brown sandstone with soft partings «--- . 3 02 6 COAL TJRADE. 2SS Wo. Fs. Yds. Ft. In. 2 White post with shivery partings > 1 10 5 5 Black shiver with iron stone balls - 2 2 6 Coarse splinty coal «. - - 2 6 5 Soft g*ey shiver 1 7 2 Brown and grey post, streaked with black 1 2 5 Black shiver with beds and balls of iron stone ~ - - I 2 6 4 Grey and black metal-stone — - 1 1 9 2 White and brown post 1 1 5 Black and grey shiver, streaked witli white 1 6 3 Soft grey sand -stone with shivery partings I 1 2 Yellow and white post with sandy partings 1 2 5 Black and dun shiver with iron stone bail ,-- 1 2 6 2 White post streaked with black, and black partings - - — - — - 1 o 6 5 Grey shiver with iron stone balls - 1 9 4 Brown and black metal-stone 1 12 6 5 Hard, slaty, black shiver 1 1 o 6 Coal, hard and fine splint 3 6 £ Soft black shiver 3 6 Coal, fine and clear ----- — o 3 3 5 Hard black shiver - - 1 Total Fathoms 25 Before we commence our notices on the methods of discovering coal, it may be necessary to 264 COAL TRADE. premise, that this substance belongs exclusively to the secondary system of stratification. Williams, indeed, tells us that he has seen coal in the cavities of mineral veins at Castle Leod, in the Highlands of Scotland : it was exceedingly fat, and melted in the fire like the best Newcastle coal ; but, says he, I look upon this phenomenon in the natural history of the mineral kingdom as a great curiosity. I call it a phenomenon, because it is an extraordinary appearance quite out of common occurrence. There are several mineral veins at Castle Leod, running parallel to one another, upon the north side of a pretty high and rocky moun- tain ; and there are some lesser strings branching out from the principal veins. There is coal found in three or four of these veins, part of which had been wrought ; and as I had no operation for drawing the water out of the old works, I was obliged to open new ground farther forward, upon the bearing of one of the veins, out of which coal had been wrought. It was only about one foot thick, and so continued for a few yards in length, till it began to dwindle away by degrees, and was soon squeezed out intirely at both ends of this little belly. Some of the veins that had been wrought I perceived were three or four feet wide, and had long- er concavities or bellies, between which the veins were so twitched or compressed that the coal was often only about one inch thick, circumsfances common to all mineral veins.* In countries where collieries abound, the most ob- vious method of ascertaining the presence of coal is to compare the strata at the surface with those in the • Mineral Kingdom, v, i, p. 2$$, &c, COAL TRADE. £65 shaft of some neighbouring colliery on the dip side of the ground lo be explored. If the thickness and component parts of stratum super-stratum are found alike in places a mile asunder, and the inclina- tion between them agrees with the usual dip of the district, it may with great confidence be concluded that this intermediate space affords the same strata as are found on the rise side of the shaft, and that no dike occurs in it to break its uniformity. Where rivers, ravines, and valleys expose high sections of strata, the method of discovery is still more obvious; but, where neither of these advantages is to be found, the first attention is to be paid to the species of stra- ta in the district to be explored. High mountains* composed of alternate layers of hard, solid lime-stone, and sand- stone, are rarely found to produce coal in a- bundance, and never in excellence. But in grounds of an undulating form, well advanced into systems of secondary stratification, and composed of sand-stone and schistus, coal.seams are commonly found ; and, as they always have, in common with their concomitant strata, their commencement at the surface of the earth, their crop or out-burst is often seen in the faces of quarries, in the ditches of fences, and id the beds of brooks, and frequently in thin soils is turned up by the plough: in these situations the coal is always of a soft, sooty substance, and of a brownish black colour; and from its being found in the crow or crop of the earth it has obtained the name of crow-coal. Strata of coal also, from their porous nature, frequently be- come the feeders of springs which cast up small pieces of coal, and are tinged widi a dark ochery sub- z £66 COAL TRADK. stance proceeding from the decomposition of coal or pyrites, by the united action of water and atmospheric air; for pyrites if not mixed with the coal are com- monly found in the schistus beds, composing the roof or floor of coal seams. Sometimes a long line of springs is found in the direction of the out-burst of seams on the dip side of hills. These, when they are covered with a blue, oiiy-looking scum, and afford an astringent water, and, like the other, eject particles of coal, whether they merely swamp the ground, or yield a brisk current, are reckoned good indications of a stratum of coal. " In working free-stone quarries in a coal country, there are often seen blackish beds of a coal-like sub- stance between the strata or beds of stone, and there frequently appear small quantities of real coal in the heart of the stone, when broken. These symptoms are not found between the beds nor upon breaking the free-stone in countries where there is no coal ; and, therefore, where these symptoms are found they are so many signs of a coal neighbourhood ; but it is im- possible from these to know how near or far off you are from the stratum of coal." # We have seen rounded pieces of coal in the lime-stone and marie strata at Marsdon Rocks : also in great plenty in the alluvial sand hills about Durham. Boring is the last, but most effectual method of discovering coal. At what period this art was in- vented we have seen no account. Grey, in his Cho- rographia, enumerates among the many rare engines brought by Mr Beaumont,f and " not known before * Will Miir King, v. x. p. 3io. f See before at p. %%$. COAL TRADE. 267 in these parts, the art to bore with iron rods, to try the deepness and thickness of the coal." Mr Mad- dison of Birtley is in possession of valuable accounts of borings made in the counties of Durham, Northum- berland, Yorkshire, Westmorland, and Cumberland, by himself and his ancestors, for upwards of a century. The purposes for which boring is used are numer- ous, and some of them of the utmost importance in collieries. The occurrence of dykes and occasion- al alterations in the dip, render the boring of three or more holes necessary, to determine exactly to what point of the horizon the strata incline before any ca- pital operation for the winning of a mine can be un- dertaken ; because a very small error in this may ha- zard the obtaining a great part of the coal, or at least incur a double expence in recovering it. Boring not only shews the depth at which the coal lies, but its exact thickness, its hardness, its quality; whether close burning or open burning; and whether any foul admixture is in it or not; also the thickness, hardness, and other circumstances of all the strata bored tl. ough ; and, from the quantity of water met with in the pro- cess, some judgment may be formed of the power required to raise it, or whether an engine be required or not. When holes are to be bored for these purposes, they may be fixed in such a situation from each other, as to suit the places where pits are afterwards to be sunk, by which means most of the expence may be saved ; as these pits would otherwise require to be bored, when sinking, to discharge their water into the mine below. z 2 £68 COAL TRADE, The operation is generally entrusted to persons of integrity. Their accounts of the thickness, and nature of the strata, are the most accurate imaginable, and are trusted to with great confidence; for as very few choose to take a lease of a new colliery which has not been sufficiently explored by boring, it is necessary the account should be faithful, it being the only rule to guide the land owner in letting his coal, and the ten- ant in taking it. These notes are called by Brand " the Grand Arcana of the Coal Trade." The tools, used in this art, are very simple. The boring rods are made of iron, from three to four feet long, and about one and a half inch square, w ith a screw at one end, and a matrix at the other, in order to increase the length of the rods, as the hole increases in depth. The chisel is about eighteen inches long, and two and a half broad at the end, which, being screwed on at the lower end of the rods, and a piece of timber put through an eye at the upper end, they are prepared for work. Handles can be added for two, three, or four workmen, as they find necessary. When the hole grows deep, the rods are wrought with a brake. The operation is performed, by lift- ing them up a little, and letting them fall again, at the same time turning them gradually round, by a con- tinuance of which motions, a hole is fretted and worn through the hardest strata. When the chisel is blunt- ed, it is taken out, and a scooped instrument, called a wimble, put on in its stead ; by which, the dust, or pulverized matter, which was worn off the stratum, in the last operation, is brought up. By these substances the borers know exactly the nature of the stratum they COAL TRADE. 26Q are boring in ; and by an alteration in the working of the rods, which they are sensible of in the handling them, they perceive the least variation of the strata. The principal part of the art depends upon keeping the hole clean, and observing every variation of the strata with attention. Winning the Coal. — The coal often lies in such elevated situations that it can be drained by a Le- vel brought up from lower grounds ; but the prudence of this method depends upon circumstances. If the level should be of great length, or pass through very hard strata, and the quantity of coal it would drain, or the profits expected to be produced by that coal, should be inadequate to the expence ; in such case, some other method of winning might be more pro- per. A level may be begun in the manner of an open ditch, about three feet wide, and carried forward un- til it be about six or seven feet deep from the surface, after which it .may be continued in the manner of a mine, about three feet wide, and three and a half high, through the solid strata, taking care to secure the bot- tom and side by timber, or brick work, where the strata are not strong enough to support the incumbent weight. If the drift or mine has to go a long way before it reach the coal, it may be necessary to sink over it, at intervals, small pits, for the convenience of taking up the excavated substances, as well as to supply fresh air to the workmen. If a level is found impracticable, or for particular reasons uuadvisable, then a steam engine, or some other machine, will be necessary, which should be fix- Z3 £70 COAL TRADE. ed upon the deepest part of the coal, or at least so far towards the dip as will drain such an extent of coal as is intended to be wrought; and whether a steam engine, or other machine is used, it will be of great advantage to have a partial level brought up to the engine shaft, if the situation of the ground will admit it at a small charge, in order to convey away the wa- ter without drawing it so high as the surface ; for if the pit w ? as thirty fathoms deep to the coal, and if there was a partial level to receive the water, five fathoms only below the surface, the engine by this means would be enabled to draw one-sixth part more water than without it ; and if there were any feeders of water in the pit above this level, they might be con- veyed into it, where they would be discharged without being drawn by the engine. The engine pit may be from seven to nine feet wide, and whether it be circular, oval, or of any other form, is riot very material, provided it be sufficiently strong, though a circular form is most generally approved. Every method should be used to keep it as dry a$ possible; and, whenever an accident happens, it should be repaired before any other operation is pro- ceeded in, lest an additional one follows. The situation of the working shaft should be a little to the rise of the engine pit, that the water which col- lects there may not obstruct the working of the coals every time the engine stops; it should not exceed the distance of thirty or forty yards, because when the drift between is to be driven a long way, it becomes both difficult and expensive. COAL TRADE. 271 The Shafts A and B, the perpendicular entrances into the mine, are generally about eight feet and a half in diameter. A is the working shaft by which the workmen descend, and the coals are brought up : it is also called the down-cast shaft, because the air, re- presented by the dotted lines, descends down it, and, after traversing the whole mine, ascends through the up-casi shaft B, which, on account of its having upon it a furnace, with a lofty chimney to accelerate the motion of the air, is sometimes termed the air-furnace shaft* Winning Head-ways are narrow drifts about two yards wide, in a north and south direction, and are generally the first formation of the workings. Boards. — These are the chief excavations, or workings of a coal mine. They are about four yards wide, and eight yards asunder, and run east and west, at right angles with the head- ways. Pillars are the parallelograms, or long squares of coal, left to support the roof. When the roof falls, ©72 COAL TRADE. by their being left too weak, it is called a thrust ; and when, by iheir narrowness, they sink into a tender floor, it is called a creep. If the roof and pavement are both strorg, as well as the coal, and the pit about thirty fathoms deep, then two-thirds or three-fourths may be taken away at the first working, and one- third or one-fourth left in pillars. If tender, it will- require a larger proportion to be left in pillars ; pro- bably one-third or nearly one-half. Walls are openings for the purpose of ventila- tion, made between each board : they are two yards wide, and from twenty to twenty-six yards distant. Stentings are openings between two parallel head-ways, for the same use as walls. Jenkins are narrow passages made through the middle of the pillars, for the purpose of getting the coal left at the first working ; after they are made, the workings generally either creep or thrust together. Cross cuts are oblique passages made in exten- sive workings, for the purpose of shortening the way to any particular part of the mii:e. Drifts are narrow, oblong excavations made for the purpose of conveying water from the workings, for taking the air from one shaft to another, for making discoveries beyond dykes and troubles, and for similar purposes. Stoppings, represented by the black lines in the walls and stentings, are partitions of briek and lime, made to procure a regular ventilation through all the wastes or old workings of the mine. Frame-dams are made of beams of square fir timber, about three feet long, hid length-ways, close* COAL TRADE. 273 ]y joined and firmly wedged together. They are used for damming water; and in mines frequently raise it to a great height. Brattices are partitions of wood used in ventil- ating the boards in which the hewers are at work. When a mine has only one shaft, a part of it is brat- ticed off, in order that the air may pass down the larger division, and ascend by the smaller. Falls, or breakings down of the roof of a pit, frequently kill the workmen. When they occur in the wastes, they obstruct the regular current of at- mospheric air. The following is a list of employments, and a few technical terms peculiar to this trade. Viewer: the person who gives direction as to the method of working and ventilating the mine ; in large collieries he has a person under him, called the Under-viewer. From the viewers, the overmen re- ceive their instructions. Overman: one who inspects the state of the mine every morning, before the men go to work : he also ker ps a daily account of the men's labour. Keeker : an inspector of the hewers, waiters, &c. Wastemen : persons that daily examine the state of the workings, and see that they be properly ventil- ated. Hewers : persons that hew or cut the coal from its natural situation : a block of coal that has been nicked ana kirved, they call ajud: to kirve, means to undermine ; to nick, to cut the coal on each side of the board or head way. The jud is forced from the roof by wedges and a mallet. 274 COAL TRADE, Putters and Barrowmen are those who fill the corves and lead them from the hewers, on lour wheeled carriages, called Trams, to the crane or shaft. The barrowman pulls before, and the putter putts or thrusts behind. In high seams, horses are used in- stead of men. Cr an em en are stout lads employed in raising the corves of coals by the power of a crane, from the trams, upon a higher carriage, called a Holly or Waggon. Drivers are boys employed to drive the horses, that draw the sledges, rollies, and waggons from the crane to the shaft. Trappers are boys of the youngest class, em- ployed to open and shut the doors, which keep the ventilation in the workings regular. Shifters are men who repair the horse-way » and other passages in the mine, and keep them free from obstructions. Onsetters are those who hook the laden and unhook the empty corves at the bottom of the shaft $ and the Banksmen, at the bank, or top of the pit, un- hook and empty the laden corves into carts or wag- gons, from a frame or stage. Brakemen, are employed to work the steam en- gine, or other machinery used in raising the coal from the mine. Gin-drivers are boys employed to drive the horses in the gin or engine used in raising coals from pits of moderate depth. Corvers make the corves, a surt of strong osier COAL TRADE. 275 baskets, in which the coals are conveyed from the hewers to the bank. Wailers are boys emj loyed to pick out slate, pyrites, and other foul admixtures from the coal. Skreeners take the small coal from beneath a screen of iron, over which the coals, as they come from the hewers, are poured into the waggons, or carts. Fire Damp, or hydrogen gas, prevails more or less in all coal mines, and is the most terrible and destruc- tive evil the miner has to contend with. It is sup- posed, in these situations, to be generated by the con- tact of water and pyrites ; though it is most abundant in the dry seams, out of which it issues with a hissing noise : the places evolving it in this manner have their orifice fringed with a thin pelucid film, and are called blowers. Sometimes, especially where the strata are shattered, it issues out of fissures and cavities in con- siderable quantities, and explodes at the workmen's caudles ; but when, either from the falling of stop- pings in the wastes, or by neglect of shutting some of the trap-doors, the current of atmospheric air has for some time been diverted out of its proper course, this element has been suffered to accumulate and is in- cautiously ignited by the candle of the person that first visits the inflammable repository, effects of a volcanic nature are produced. The subterraneous lightning scorches and mangles the workmen exposed to its fury; sweeps down its long galleries in one common torrent of destruction, limbs of men and horses, doors, brattices, workmen's tools, and coal dust, all which it ejects through the shaits, accompanied with thick vo„ £/6 COAL TRADE. Iumes of smoke and fire. The noise of the explosion resembles that of a distant park of artillery, and the echo it produces is like the reverberations of thun- der in the higher regions of the air. Workmen, who have escaped the fury of these blasts, de- scribe them as instantaneously preceded with a strong, sudden wind, and as afflicting the head with pains as if it were pierced with arrows, and, even in cases where the person sustains little injury from the fire, as causing in the hands, face, and other bare parts of the body, a hot, scorching pain. They, who have presence of mind to throw themselves flat on their faces, are seldom injured, especially where there is water; but, if they be left in a vacuum, or where choakdamp prevails, they soon suffocate. Choak-damp, or carbonic acid gas, the lesser, but often fatal evil of coal mines, is, with fire*damp, ranked by chymists among the simple combustibles, though it is not of a nature so highly inflammable. It is heavier than common air, and, like water, forbids animal respiration and extinguishes lights. Its gravity makes it difficult to be carried off by currents of at- mospheric air; but, where it does not exclusively pre- vail, its suffocating quality is avoided by keeping the head above its level: its presence is always easily as- certained by its not suffering a candle to burn in it. In the life of Lord Keeper North, an account, dated in 1676, thus describes these airs: " Damps or foul air kill insensibly ; sinking another pit that the air may not stagnate, is an infallible remedy. They are most in hot weather. An infallible trial is by a dog, and the candles shew it. They seem to be heavy COAL TRADE. 277 sulphureous air, not fit for breath ; and I have heard some say, that they would lie in the midst of the shaft, and the bottom be clear. The flame of a candle will not kindle them so soon as the snuff; but they have been kindled by the striking fire with a tool. The blast is mighty violent, but men have been saved by lying flat on their bellies." In the parts of mines where fire-damp has collected, the wastemen use a steel-mill instead of candles. This simple machine consits of two wheels, one of which is turned with great rapidity against a piece of flint : instances, however, have occurred when the fire-damp has exploded, even with this most salutary and useful precaution. About the latter end of the eighteenth century, one of these explosions killed seventy-two persons in a colliery at North Biddick, on the river Wear. At Lampton colliery, on the 22d of August, 1766, a like accident occurred. u The workmen, to the number of an hundred, had but just left off work, and three masons, with as many labourers, been left to build up a partition to secure the coals from taking fire by the ..lamp; when the said lamp being let down at the re- quest of the masons to rarify the air, the latter in an instant took fire with a terrible explosion, and made its way up the pits destroying men, horses, and all in its passage. The noise of the explosion was heard above three miles round, and the flash was as visible as a flash of lightning. The men below were drove by the force up through trie shaft or great tube, like balls out of a cannon, and every thing that resisted shared the same fate. The neighbourhood being alarmed, collected itself in order to give assistance ; Aa 278 COAL TRADE. but found only heads, arms, and legs, thrown out to a great distance from the mouths of the pits. The ground, for acres, was strewed with timber, coals, &c. All the partitions, trap-doors, corves, wood props, and linings, were swept away, together with the en- gine for drawing up the coals, and all its apparatus.* " By the melancholy accident which occurred at Hebburn, in 1805, twenty-iive widows and eighty-one children were left unprotected and unprovided for; and by that at Oxclose, nearly about the same period, eighteen widows and seventy children — in all forty- three widows and one hundred and fifty-one children, out of which latter number, only thirty-three were able in any degree to contribute to their own sup- port/'f On the 25th of May, 1812, the colliery at Felling exploded and destroyed ninety-two persons, leaving forty-one widows, ten of whom were at that time pregnant, and one hundred and thirty- three chil- dren to the protection of the public : this last calamity, however, so far excited the commiseration of man- kind, that a large voluntary contribution was made for them ; and the body of gentlemen engaged in the Coal Trade commenced a fund to provide relief for the relatives of sufferers by similar accidents, Formerly the air of coal mines was accelerated by placing a grate of burning coals near the bottom of the up-cast shaft : these grates are locally called lamps, and are used at present for giving light to the banks- men by night, and for drying the corves at, in wet weather. But at present the air "is put in motion by means of a large furnace near the edge of one of the • Newcastle Papers, f Newcastle Courant, COAL TRADE. 279 shafts, inclosed in a covered building which surrounds the whole mouth of the shaft, and provided with a large chimney similar in appearance to a glass-house* The heated air, thus ascending through the chimney, is succeeded by cold air from the shaft, which in its turn is suceeded by air from the lowest part of the mine. The whole is thus successively removed, and its place supplied by air which finds its way from above, through another communicating shaft open to the day. The certainty of this operation has evident- ly no dependence on the depth of the mine, its ex- tent, or its forms. The brisk current thus produced below naturally takes the most direct course betwixt the two shafts. The ventilation on each side is therefore accomplished by means of another contri- vance. A continued communication is formed be- twixt the two shafts in any required direction, by opening the proper avenues and closing all others, A continued current is sometimes made to pass in this manner for twelve or eighteen miles." Gins. — James the VI. of Scotland, about the year 1600, granted a patent to a predecessor of the first earl of Balcarras, for inventing an engine for drawing water out of coal mines/* In Rymer's Foedera we find an exclusive grant given in 1630, to one David Ramsay, for raising water by a new method out of deep mines. Master Beaumont brought with him " rare engines to draw water cut of the pits." In the life of Lord Keeper North, dated 16/6, are the following curious notices. " The coal mines in Aa£ • Arnot's Hist, of Edin, p. 66, £80 COAL TRAbE. Lumley Park, are the greatest in the north, and pro- duce the best coal. These collieries had but one drain of water for two engines, one of three stories, the other of two, all the pits for two or three miles together were drained into these drains. The engines are^ placed in the lowest places, that there may be the less way for the water to rise; and if there be a run- ning stream to work the engines, it is happy/ 1 The species of engines, corruptly called gins, have been used only in landsale collieries, or in seams of moderate depth, since the invention of steam engines. One of them, engraved in Emerson's mechanics, has the rol- ler immediately over the shaft, which is also the cen- tre of the horse track. In the whim gins, the ropes run upon two pullies over the shaft, but the roller is at some distance, and the circular tract of the horses is at one side of the shaft, leaving the other free for the teeming or delivery of the coals. The first idea of a Steam Engine is thrown out in the Marquis of Worcester's Century of Inventions, dated in 1655. No use was made of it till Captain Savery began tp claim the invention as his own, and to erect them about gentlemen's gardens and pleasure grounds : his attempts to make them applicable to mining purposes was unsucessful ; but Mr New- comen, an iron-monger, and John Cowley, a glazier, at Dartmouth, about the year 1712, by the invention of a new r kind of machinery, finally accomplished the applications of steam to mechanics ; and the successive invention of Messrs Boulton and Watt, Mr Smeaton, and others have brought it into common use in all mining districts, The first steam engine^ erected in COAL TRADE, 281 this neighbourhood, was at Oxclose, near Washing- ton; the next at Norwood, near Ravensworth. A Swedish gentleman, who taught Mathematics in Newcastle, erected one at Mr Ridley's colliery, at Byker, in 1713 or 1714. AaS TRADE AND MANUFACTURES. The extensive foundations of Roman buildings dis- covered on the banks of the Tyne, at Newcastle, Wallsend, Jarrow, South- Shields and Tynemouth, sufficiently prove that this was a favourite port of that enterprising people ; but concerning the nature of the commerce they carried on here, we are left entirely to conjecture. The general trade of Britain, under the Roman sera, seems to have been in grain; but the great military establishment constantly kept up on the line of the Wall, would rather demand an impor- tation of that article here, than suffer it to be sent, as was then customary, to the armies in Germany. Under the Saxon age, Religion presided over the Tyne; and during the Danish usurpation, its banks were desolated and its towns reposed in ashes. In the eighth year after the Conquest, Jarrow seems to have been a pla.ce of more importance than Monkches- ter; but Curthofe, brother to the Conqueror, erected a castle among the ruins of Pons j£lii, in 1080, from which period the commencement of the commerce of Newcastle may be dated. The charter of Henry the I., to this town, is couched in the phrase of trade, and mentions "ships arriving at Tynemouth, itinerant merchants, goods brought to the town by sea, dying of cloth, buying of wool and skins, export- ation of corn" and such like. Before the year 1650, it was justly observed that u the coal trade had made Newcastle to flourish in all trades." In the year 1539, it appears by the books of the Trinity-House, that there came into this port, five hundred and three TRADE AND MANUFACTURES. English, and three hundred and forty- four foreign ships: in 1739, the same authority states the number of visits from coasters to be two thousand seven hundred and sixty-seven; from English, across the sea, three hundred and fifty-three ; and from strangers thirty ; The coasters, in 1777, made four thousand three hundred and seventy-six voyages ; over-sea traders, three hundred and fifty; and foreigners, forty-two. The coasting vessels on an average, about this time, are supposed to have made eight voyages in a year, which would make, in 1777, five hundred and seventy-four vessels in the London and coast trade. In 1805, there entered with goods, one thousand four hundred and fifty-two vessels coastways, one hundred and six- ty-three British vessels, and one hundred and fifty foreign vessels, oversea; one hundred and one vessels arrived from abroad with ballast : and in the same year, exclusive of the above, there belonged to the port of Newcastle, including Blythe, &c. seven hun- dred and sixty eight ships, of the burden of one hun- dred and sixty-five thousand eight hundred and eighty- three tons, In 1810, Newcastle, with Blythe, had four hundred and ninety-four ships in the coal trade, and two hundred and fifty-eight in foreign trade, a- mounting in burden to one hundred and sixty-one thousand nine hundred tons, and employing seven thousand four hundred and thirty-three men. In enumerating the produce and manufactories in this neighbourhood, we shall confine ourselves to such as are remarkable for extent, or are peculiar to the district. Exports. — Besides coal, the principal exports are glass of all kinds, silver bullion, pig lead, red and £84 TRADE AND MANUFACTURES. white lead, lead shot, butter, pickled salmon, bacon* hams, copperas, grindstones, flag-stones, fire-stones, bricks and tiles, cinders and coke, cast and wrought iron and steel, ale, beer and porter, earthen ware, flour, painters' colours, starch, Prussian blue, sal-am- moniac, soda, paper, watch glasses, leather gloves, lamp-black, whale oil, coal-tar, coal-oil, refined su- gars, canvas, &c. Imports. — The principal articles imported into the Tyne are wine, spirits, fruit, cotton, tobacco staves, timber, masts, plank, tar, iron, deals, corn, sugar, hemp, flax, smalts, linen yarn, hides, &c. Iron.— Near Lanchester there areirast heaps of iron scoria, the refuse of ancient bloomeries: in that neighbourhood there are also several excellent seams of iron-stone. Messrs Cookson, for many years, had extensive works for smelting iron, at Whittle, near Chester-le-street ; and similar works were established near Lee-Hall, on the north Tyne, and at Bebside, near Bedlington 5 but they have all been discontinu- ed. The works at Lemington were commenced in 1797, and at present are in a very flourishing state. The iron stone used at them, is chieflly collected from the schistus beds in the neighbouring collieries, and from the sea shore near Whitby. The average week- ly produce of the furnaces here, is about fifty-six tons of pig iron, part of which is sold to the foundries, and the rest wrought into malleable or bar iron. The firm carrying on this concern, is called the Tyne Iron Company : they have a large foundry. Wrought Iron-Works. — We noticed the ex- tensive works at Swalwdl and Winlaton, at p, 158, TRADE AND MANUFACTURES. 285 of this volume. The large concern at New-Green- wich, and NeW'Depford on the south-side of the Tyne, near Gateshead, like that at Swalwell, affords a strik- ing proof of the effects of great industry and persever- ance, in a free commercial kingdom. These works were commenced about fifty years since by the late Wil- liam Hawks, esq. and at present are employed in ex- ecuting large contracts in anchors, and various articles of naval ironmongery, to the Royal Dock yards. Besides which they manufacture, for the general trade, all kinds of articles in iron and steel; have a mill for boring cannon and other cast metal cylinders \ two forges, wrought by steam engines ; with appara- tus for grinding edge-tools, slitting and rolling iron, a large foundry, &c. &C. This company have also two iron forges at Beamish, and one at Lumley, all wrought by water. At High and Low Team, about a mile west of Gateshead, anchors, and other kinds of articles in iron and steal, are extensively manufactured, by Messrs Morrison, Mossman, and Co. which company, have also a large foundry, slitting mill, &c. Foundries.— In addition to the foundries at Lemington, Swalwell, New Greenwich, and Low Team, the most extensive in the neighbourhood of Newcastle, are carried on by the following firms. Isaac Cookson and Co. Close, Newcastle : — Malin Sorsbie, Busy Cottage: — Moffit aud Glynn, Sand- gate: — Whinfield and Co* Hillgate, Gateshead: — Losh, Wilson, and Bell, at Walker. Lead. — The lead produced by the rich and nu- merous mines in Allendale, Weardale, in the neigh- bourhood of Alston Moor, and on the mountain of 286 TRADE AND MANUFACTURES. Crossfell, is smelted into pigs near the mines, and con- veyed in carts to the Tyne, at Stella and Swalwell. The export in this article from Newcastle on an average for six years to Christmas, 1776, was seven thousand and seventy-two and a half tons ; and iu the eight last years, as follows: Tear, Tons, Cwt. Tear, Tons, Ctvt. 1804... -10,352 £ 1808*... 8.155 1805-... 9,162 3 1809»*»* 4,972 1806-... 3,911 1810~.. 5,670 1807-... 6,809 1811. ... 4,553 One bing of washed lead ore weighs eight cwt. and, upon an average, four bings and one quarter, or thirty-four cwt. yield one ton of pig lead. One Newcastle fodder, or twenty-one cwt. of pig lead, produces from seven to twelve ounces of silver; such as yields less than seven ounces and a half, will not pay for refining. Refineries of Lead, as well as the smelting mills, are principally near the mines; a great part of the lead, however, undergoes this operation in the ex- tensive works established for this purpose at Blaydon, and Bill-quay. Lead Manufactories*— At Low Elswick, Messrs Ward, Walker, Parker, and Co. carry on a very extensive concern in rolling sheet lead, and con- verting pig-lead into ceruse and minium, for pigments.* • " The processes used in marking red and white lead are so simple, that we have thought it would not be unentertaining to our readers to give a slight sketch of them." " The first operation is to melt the pig-lead into pieces nearly two feet long, five inches broad, and so thin as to expose as great a surface as possible to the action of the acid. These pieces are then placed upon earthen pots, containing about half a pint of vinegar each, and are set in a layer of tanner* apent bark, as close to each other as possible." TRADE AND MANUFACTURES, 287 They also cast large quantities of patent shot in a tower, 175 feet high, and built for the purpose: the lead is melted at the top of the tower, and by cooling as it falls, obtains that roundness and solidity for which it is admired by sportsmen : shot is also cast in a sim- ilar manner, in the shaft of an old coal-mine near Wylam. The other lead manufacturers are Easterby, Hall, & Co, Bill-quay ;— James Hind, & Co. Ouse-burn: « — and Lock, Blackett, & Co. Gallow gate. Colour Manufactories. — Besides the pig- ments prepared from lead, there are extensive manu- factories for a great variety of colours, at Paradise, near Benwell ; at Skinner-burn ; in Sandgate, and Gateshead ; and at He worth- shore. " Upon this layer of pots and lead are placed boards laid over ivith a further quantity of bark, and thus they are continued, layer upon layer, tili they arrive at their destined height. These strata continue covered for about three months- When the boards are removed, the lead is found nearly in the shape as when placed there, but quite altered in its nature, being per- fectly corroded, quite white, and easily broken by the fingers into a white powder resembling cnalic: The pieces are now thrown together into a large receiver full of water, hav- ing, about two-thirds up, a partition with holes in it running across. A workman then with a large pole, and a strong head fixed upon it, stirs, beats, and breaks them, by which means the corroded lead divides and falls to the bottom of the receiv- er. This part of the operation was formerly done dry, and proved extremely fatal to the health of the people employed. From the dust and particles of the lead injuring the constitu* tion, few of the workmen lived beyond the age of forty years, but by now grinding the lead in water, this fatal part of the process is remedied. The blue lead is then taken away, melt- ed, and undergoes a similar operation; the white substance is taken to the mill and ground in the rough, by the power of a steam engine. The grinding is performed by the common blue mill stone ; after it is ground, it is put into large tubs and elutriated, then put into flat dishes and dried. It is then fit for making into paiut/'^Firtf £dition 9 f88 TRADE AND MANUFACTURES, Prusiate of Iron, or, as it is vulgarly called, Prussian Blue, was attempted to be made in the be- ginning of last century, by a Jew, in Oakwellgate, in Gateshead. He removed his apparatus to Corbridge ; but, not succeeding in making a saleable article, he relinquished his speculation, when the late Thomas Simpson, esq. a gentleman of extensive knowledge in chymestry, and of a persevering spirit, took it up and brought the art to perfection, at Elswick. He was the first who introduced the liquid blue, and after* wards the stone and fig blue, so much in use for giv- ing clearness of colour to linen. Since bis death, the manufactory has been removed to a situation at Heworth-shore, which is peculiarly well adapted for carrying on this, and the other extensive concerns which have cf late been established there. Glass Works. — Sir Robert Mansell, knight, vice admiral of England, established Glass Works on the Tyne, about the year 1619 ; and for that pur- pose brought workmen from Lorraine then a province in Germany, for in that ycrai we find the families of " Hensey, Teswicke, and Tyttere" settled in New- castle. Sir Robert, by royal proclamation, had the sole right of making glass in England confirmed upon him on account of the great industry and capital he had employed in perfecting that manufacture with pit coal ; •• whereby not only the woods and timber of this kingdom are greatly preserved; but the making of all kinds of glass is established here, to the saving of great treasure at home, and the employment of great numbers of our people." These Glass-houses were situated between Ouseburn and St. Lawrence TRADE AND MANUFACTURES. 289 quay. The family of Tytery are extinct : the Hen- zells and Tyzacks, till of late years, kept the arcana of the trade in their possession, and at present, chiefly preside over the working parts, though very few of the Tyzacks are now left; and workmen, without dis- tinction of family, are admitted into the employment . In 1772, there were on this river, in full employ- ment, one plate glass-house ; three crown glass-houses; live for broad, or common window glass ; two for flint glass; and five bottle houses; in all sixteen houses. At present there are fourteen houses for crown ; one for broad or common window glass ; six for flint glass ; and nine for green bottles ; besides which there are four green bottle houses at Hartley Pans ; and three green bottle, and one flint house at Sunderland. Potteries, — Few places combine more conve- niences for manufacturing every species of earthen- ware than the banks of the Tyne. Flint and potters clay are brought from the south of England in ships, coming in ballast for coals: glass we have seen, has been long in abundance here, and the chief materials for colouring and glazing, are productions of the neighbourhood. But, notwithstanding these advan- tages, till of late years, large importations of earthen- ware annually entered the Tyne, and the favourable opening for establishments in this way was over-look- ed or neglected. The large pottery of St Anthony's, however in many of its productions, begins now to emulate, and even to equal those of Staffordshire: it has a flint mill at Blaydon. This sort of ware is, 8b £Q0 TRADE AND MANUFACTURES. also, made at Sheriff-bill, on Gateshead Fell; and at Skinner's-burn, and Ouse-burn ; and there are three ntanufactories of common black earthen ware, two at Heworth-shore, and one at Ouseburn. Coal Tar, Lamp Black, &c. — About the year 1772, Baron Van Haake, a native of Silesia, and Joseph Pears, a German, made experiments in extracting tar from coal, at Chatham. The baron .soon after removed to Gateshead, and, in conjunction with one Christopher Schirret, made further attempts with apparatus erected near Messrs Hawks & Cos foundry. He also recommended James Smith, a Comedian, who was desirous of embarking in this speculation, to fetch Pears from Chatham, which be- ing accomplished, Smith 3 under the direction of Pears, commenced his operations at Scotchwood ; but, tiring of the concern, sold it to Michael Heaton, who, after carrying it on for fourteen or fifteen years, first sold a share and then the whole of it to Mr Row, who re- moved the works to St. Peter's quay; about which time Pears perfected the art of making lump black, by collecting the smoke passing off during the process of making coal tar. The baron died in Gateshead, in 1780. In 1781, the earl of Dundonnald procured a patent for " making tar, pitch, essential oils, volatile alkali, mineral acids, sails, and cinders from pit coal." His ovens were at Bell's Close. Besides these, there are now three other manufactories of these articles, two at Heworth-shore, and one at Derwent-haugh. Copperas is extracted from the pyrites, with which the coal mines abound. The first manufactory TRADE AND MANUFACTURES. 291 for it, iu this district, was on the river Wear; the next at Felling shore, on the southern bank of the Tyne. This article is also, made at Scotchwood, Elswick, Dent's-hole, St. Anthony's, Walker, and at South- field, near Wall's-end. Sal-ammoniac, an extract of soot and sea wa- ter, is made in a large way at Mr Bram weirs manu- factory at Heworth-shore : Glauber's Salts are extracted from its refuse. Soda is manufactured by Messrs Losh & Co. at Walker. Brown Paper is made in mills wrought by steam engines, at Scotcliwood, at Felling-shore, and Heworth shore, and at several water-mills within a few miles from Newcastle. So aperies, on a large scale, may be seen in the Close, in Sandgate, and at Ouseburn. Sugar Refineries. — These are inHillgate, in Gateshead, and in the Close. This business is at present, less extensively carried on than formerly, ow- ing to the difficulty of intercourse with foreign countries. Saltworks were formerly abundant at Howdon Pans, Jarrow, and North and South Shields; but are at present much decayed, and confined to the two last places. Liverpool has become the great impo- rium of this trade. Large quantities of it, are, how- ever, made from a spring, m an old colliery, at Bii t- ley, near Chester-le-Street. Similar springs occur in the high-main coal-seam, at Felling, and in Walk- er and other collieries. Tradition tells us that while the great plague was making havoc amongst the in- b b 2 QQ2 TRADE AND MANUFACTURES. Labitants of Shields, it spared the persons who dwelt about the salt-works. Salmon Fisheries in the Tyne, are mention* ed in a note, at page 73. Mr Brand found an an- cient manuscript in the possession of Thomas Astle, esq. which mentions all the fisheries, or yares, as they were then called, from Stanley Burn, on the south side of the river, to South Shields. Grindstones. — The hostmen were incorporat- ed for the purpose of " the loading and better dis- posing of sea-coales and pitt coales, and stones called grindstones, rub-stones, and whet-stones, in, upon, and within the river and port of Tyne " This article is almost exclusively procured about Windy-Nook, Gateshead-Fell, and Ayton-Banks : and in peaceable times finds its way from hence into almost every cor«* ner of the world. They are frequently used in Africa and Asia as hand-mills for grinding corn. As the tract that affords them has strata of various strength and fineness, grindstones for every purpose, they can be applied to, can be procured at Newcastle. Form- erly some were fetched into England from Spain: but they were of so soft a grit as not to be useful for many purposes.* Corn Mills. — The landscape around Newcas- tle is rendered exceedingly striking by the great num- ber of various shaped windmills with which it abounds. No town of the kingdom has, indeed, so many mills about it for grinding corn as Newcastle. But the plenty of coals in the neighbourhood, and the irregu- lar employment of the mills wrought by wind or • Mag. Brit. vol. iii. p. 608. TRADE AND MANUFACTURES. 293 water, have each of late years contributed to encour- age the erection of those wrought by steam : of this kind there are seven at present : their chief recom- mendations are expedition, and the steadiness and constancy of their impulsive power. Spinning Manufactories. — There is an extensive manufactory of this description at Ouse- burn, near Newcastle : it is appropriated to the spin- ning of linen yarn. The Breweries of ale, beer, and porter, are both numerous and extensive in Newcastle and its vi- cinity. Their celebrity is such that they send it by land carriage, to places at the distance of fifty or sixty miles. Newspapers. — There are four newspapers print- ed weekly in Newcastle; the Courant and the Chronicle, on Saturdays; the Tyne Mercury, on Tuesday's; and the Newcastle Advertiser, on Thurs- days. Inns and Taverns. — The principal Inns and Taverns in Newcastle, as posting houses, are Forster s, Queen's-head, Pilgrim Street; Loftus's, Turk's-head, Bigg Market ; and Grieveson's, Crown and Thistle, Groat Market. Though not a posting house, Mrs Atkinson's, the George Inn, Pilgrim Street, affords very good accommodations to travellers. Coffee Houses. — There are no houses in Newcastle which come within the description of the coffee houses in London : the rooms called by that name being properly News Rooms, devoted to the use of their respective subscribers, or to such stran- gers as they introduce. BbS 294 TRADE AND MANUFACTURES. Banks. — There are four banking houses in New- castle, viz. : The Old Bank ; sir M. White Ridley, Bart. Bigge, Gibson, & Co. at the east end of Mos- ley Street. The Tyne bank; sir Charles Loraine, Bart. Baker, Pearson, Maude, and Loraine, at the west end of Mosley Street. The Newcastle bank; Messrs R. J. Lamb ton, Bulman, Fenwick and Pybus, in Dean Street. The Northumberland bank; Messrs Reed, Bat- son, Reeds, and Co. Tyne Bridge end* Wharfingers. — Goods are forwarded to and from all places by the following wharfingers : Nichol, Ludlow, & Co. High Crane. Thomas Robson, Quay. Joseph Snowball, Folly. Thomas Snaith, Broad Chare. Bradshaw and Hood, Quay. Wm. Anderson and Son, Pilgrim Street. Trading Vessels. — There are twenty packets and other vessels, employed in the conveyance of goods and passengers to and from London, and a constant intercourse with a number of trading vessels to all the principal ports in the kingdom. Passage Boats. — There are several covered passage boats, called comfortables, which go every tide to and from South and North Shields. — They have good accommodations, and are fine sailing boats. There are also large open boats called wherries, daily passing through all the navigable parts of the river for the purpose of conveying goods and passen- gers. TRADE AND MANUFACTURES. 295 Carriers. — The London waggon sets out every day, except Sunday, from the Bird-in-Bush Inn yard, in Pilgrim Street, and conveys goods to all the inter- mediate places on the great road from York to London. The Edinburgh and Glasgow waggon sets out from the same place on the same days. The Leeds waggon sets out from the Manor Chare, the same days, and conveys goods also to London, and the different places on the road. Carriers to Carlisle, and the different towns in Cumberland, and the adjoining counties in Scotland, arrive and set out every day, Saturdays and Sundays excepted. They stand on Sandhill. The carts for Hexham and Alston stand at the same place, and set out Mondays and Fridays. The Berwick and Alnwick waggon sets out Tues- days, Thursdays, and Fridays, from Pilgrim Street. The Barnard Castle, Bishop Auckland, and Stain- drop carriers stand on the Sandhill, and set out every Friday. The Durham and Stockton carriers set out from the Sandhill, Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. The Sunderland waggons, from the Sandhill, set out Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. The Darlington carriers set out on Fridays, from the Sandhill. The Morpeth carriers are in town Tuesdays, Thurs- days, and Saturdays. There are also many carriers from the towns and villages in Northumberland, not here enumerated £96 TRADE AND MANUFACTURES. which are in town on Thursdays, and are to be found in the Bigg Market and Pilgrim Street. COACHES. From Loftus's, Turk's Head — The Char- lotte sets out for London, by way of York, every morning at eight, and arrives the third morning at nine o'clock. The High Flyer sets out at nine in the morning, stops at York that night, and arrives in town the third day at two in the afternoon. m The High Flyer sets out for Edinburgh, by way of Berwick, every morning at five o'clock. The Carlisle coach sets out thrice a week for Car- lisle, by way of Hexham, at eight in the morning. From Forster's, Queen's Head — The Edinburgh Royal Mail sets out every morning at ten o'clock for London, and every afternoon about one for Edinburgh. The Carlisle Royal Mail sets out every day about one o'clock, and arrives at ten in the same night. From the Half-moon, Bigg Market — The Telegraph sets out every morning at five o'clock, for Leeds and London. The Hexham Dilligence sets out every Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday, at one o'clock. From the Quay-side — Shields stages set out almost every hour, from eight in the morning till five in the evening. From the Rose and Crown, Newgate Street — The Morpeth stages set out every morn- ing about eight o'clock ; and every afternoon about five. TRADE AND MANUFACTURES. 297 The Alnwick coach sets out every Monday, Wed- nesday, and Friday morning, at half past eight o'clock. The Carlisle coach (Burns) sets out every Tues- day, Thursday, and Saturday morning, at eight, and arrives at eight the same evening. From the Crown and Thistle, Groat Market, a coach sets out, for Sunderland, every morning at seven, and returns at three in the after- noon. From the Newmarket Inn, a Sunderland coach sets out every afternoon about four, and returns every morning about eleven. From the Old Garrick Head, a coach sets out, for Sunderland at nine in the morning, and re- turns in the evening betwixt seven and eight o'clock. From the Goat Inn, Gateshead, a coach, to Durham, sets out every day except Sunday and Tuesday, at four o'clock in the afternoon. Hackney Coaches have never yet been estab? lished in Newcastle $ but Sedan Chairs are much in use* INTDEX. A Page. ABALLABA - - - 205 Admiralty. Court of - - 95 Ad Murum - - - - 184 JEsica - - - - - - 195 Akenside Dr Mark - 107 Albion Street - - - - 17 All Saints' Charity School 36 Church - - - 28 Almshouse ----- 49 _ Ward's - - - 74 Amboglanna - - - - 20c Anderson Pbce - - - - 68 St Andrew's Charity School 36 — — — Church - - 26 St Ann's Chapel - - - 29 Row - - - - 83 — Street - - - 82 St Anthony's - - - - 22 Assembly Rooms - - - 6s ' -, Library of 39 Asylum - - - - - - 43 Athol, Adam, &c. - - - 26 Augufline Friars - - - 12 Axelodunum - - - - 208 Axweli Park - - - - 159 Ayden Castle - - - - 162 B Backs, in Coal Mines - 25 Backworth - - - - 168 Banks ------ 294 Banksmen ----- 374 Barras Bridge - - - - 1 Bates* Island - - - - 176 Baths -------45 Roman, 137, Z55, 182, 193> *94> 302 Beamish ----- 157 Beaumont, Mr - - - - 325 Becket, St Thomas a, Cha- pel of ------ 29 Page, Bede ------ 133 Benefit Societies - - - 54 Benevolent Society - - - $$ Bennet Chessie Friars 11,40,76 Benton - - - - z 69 Benwell - - - - XI z, 183 Chapel - - - 20 Bible Society - - - - 154 Bifhopwearmouth - - Z47 Blackett's Hospital - - 47 Black Friars - - - zi, 43 Black gate ----- 4 Blagdon ----- 168 Blythe Coal Trade of - 228 Boards - - - - - 271 Boats, Passage - - - 294 Bo! beck Hall - - - - 67 Bolden ------ 143 Borcovicus - - - - 193 Boring for Coal - - - 266 Boulness ----- 212 Boundaries of Newcastle S$ Bowers ----- 194 Bradley Hall - - - - z6z Brakeraen - - - - » 274 Branks ------ 61 Brass Pipe in the Roman Wall 214 Bratices - - - - - - 273 Breweries ----- 293 Lridewell ----- 63 Bridge, Barras - - • - - 18 Roman - - - 187 . Stock- - - - 59 Tyne - - . - 56 Burdoswald - - - - 200 Burying Ground - - 32, 77 Busy Gap - - * - 192 Butter Market - - - 74 INDEX. 299 Page.] Butcher Market * - * 74 Brown, Dr - - - - 26 Brown, Stephen - - - 104 Byker no Bye Trades, the fifteen 98 By well ----- 162 C Caervoran - - - - 197 Caking Coal - - - 246 Cale Cross - - - - 72 Cambeck Fort - - - 202 Cannel Coal - - - - 247 Carmelites - - - - 15 Carrawbrugh - - - - 191 Carriers ----- 295 Castle Garth - - - - 6 — Leazes - - - 84 of Newcastle - - 3 Stairs - - - - 76 194 Causeway Hamlet Cave of Enchanted Warrior^ 2 Chair of King Ethel of bede - - - - Chapels - - - - - . St Ann's - - - — — Benwell - - - ■ Cramlington - - Gosf<.;rth - - - — — Heaton - - - ■ Jtcmond - - - ■ St James's . - 1 St John's - - and Meeting Houses 30 — St 1 homas a Becket's 29 Page. Church, St Nicholas - 23 Cilurnum ----- 187 Close 75 Close House - - - - 164 Clergymen's Sons, Society of 50 Coaches 296 Coal, boring for - - - 266 Discovery of - - 264 Duration of - - 232 — Duty on - - - 232 — Ditto at Newcastle 235 — Inclined Planes 243 — Keels ---- 238 — Measure - - - 232 — Men employed in the Trade - - — Origin of — Price of - - — Species of — btaiths - - * — Stratification attend- 192 135 21 29 20 3o 30 21 19 18 22 St Lawrence's Ch: res on the Quay-side Charitable Institutions Charlotte Square - - Charters - - - - Cheeseburn Grange - - Chester-le-Street - - Chirton ----- j^ Churches in Newcastle Church, Ali Saints' - - ■ 6t Andrew's St John's - - - ■ St Mary's, Gates- head - - - zx8 *9 15 46 76 87 164 148 23c 243 241 238 ing - - 249, 257 Tar 290 I rade at Blythe 228 Newcastle 281,228 Sunderland 229 Winning of Mines 269 - Waggons & waggon- ways - - 241, 244 Coffee Hou-es - - - 293 Collmgwood Street - - 70 C olour Manufactories 287 Common Council, Court of 96 Companies of Freemen 97 Condercum - - - - x g a Congavata - - - - ^06 Conscience, Court of 94 ConservatorshipoftheTyne 101 Copperas ----- 290 Corbridge ^i Corves ------ Corporation of Newcastle Courts of Northumberland in Newcastle Cramlidgton - - - - Cranes Lranemen Crosscuts 274 92 7 93 168 IS *74 2;* 300 INDEX. Page. Crosses - - - - « - 71 Culiercoats - - - - 174 Culm - -* - - i; - 248 Cunningham, John, his Epi- taph - - - - 37 Custom-house - - - 64 D Damp, Fire and Choak 275 Dawes, Richard - - 17,34 Davison's Hospital - - 47 Dene Street - - - - 79 Denton ------ 165 Devil's Causeway - - 187 Dip, and Rise of Strata 256 Dispensary - - - - 42 Dissenting Meeting Houses 30 Ministers' Widows* Fund - - - S3 Dissington, North & South 165 Drifts - - - - - 27a Drivers ----- 374 Drumbrugh - - - - 209 Dukes of Newcastle - 107 Dunfton Hill - - - - 158 Duns Scotus - - - - in Dykes .----- 254 E Eachwick Hall - - - 164 Elswick ----- no Exchange - 59 Exports of Newcastle 284 F Fairs — — 99 Falls in Coal Mines — 273 Felling Hall — 130 Fenham — — no Fish Markets — 73 Floods at Newcastle 57, 81 Forth — — 84 Fossils in Coal Mines 245, 346, 250, 252 rage. } III 122 121 Gateshead — ■ ■ — Almshouse ' Anchorage School — ■■ Bailiff — ■ Borough Lands 124 — St Edmund's *> Hospital S " 3 ■■ ■ ■ ■ — Chantries in *) the Church of J "? Chapels 112, 1 18 Chill Well, in 129 Church — 118 ■■ Corporation of 126 Fair — 128 Fell — 129 Foresters 125 ■ Hospital of "> King James J " 7 —-House — 116 King John's "> Palace J 12 9 " Market — 128 Meeting Houses 121 130 128 128 i*3 121 126 Foundries — — 285 Frame Dams — 272 Franciscan or Grey Friars 13 Friendless Poor Society 54 G Gabrosentum — 11 1, 209 Gallowgate — — 77 Park Population Post Office Privileges School, New Seal — — of the Church 119 Stewards 126 Toll Booth 121 Trinity Chapel 112 Water — 126 St George's Festival & Porch 24 Gelt River Gibside Gins — Gin-drivers — Glass Works Glauber's Salts Gosforth — Chapel Great Chesters Grindon Chare Grindstones Groat Market 204 154 279 ^ 74 288 291 167 30 185 22 292 74 INDEX. SOI Page. Guild, Court of — 96 H Hadrian's Vallum 179 Halton Chesters — 186 Heaton Hall — 109 ■■ Chapel — 21 Hebburn Hall — 131 Heddon-on-the-wall 164 Hewers ----- 273 Heworth - - - - 130 Band - - - 252 Hitches ------ 254 Hoastman's Society, note 98 Hospitals - 19, 45, 46, 49, 96 Houghton le-spring - - 147 Hou-e-Steads - - . - 192 Hugh, of Newcastle - - 14 Hunnum ----- 186 Hylton Ca&tle - - - - 144 I Imports of Newcastle - 284 Inclined Planes - - - 243 Infirmary ----- 40 Iron, and Iron Works 284 Inns ------ 293 Institution, New - - - 39 j Jackson, Dr - - - - 26 St James's Chapel' - - 1 James the Second's Statue 60 Jarrow - - - - - -132 Jenkins - - . - - 102 Je>mond - - - - - 109 Jesus Hospital - - - 46 Jet ------- 248 John, King, his Palace, > in Gateshead - j 129 at Heaton no 36 22 27 35 St John's Charity School — Chapel — — Church - - Jubilee School - - - K Keeker ----- 273 Keelmen - « - - 241 Keelmen's Hospital - - 47 Kirkley 166 Page, Knights of St John 7 c t 1 ?* 22, no 01 Jerusalem J Knox, George - - - - 26 L Lambton Hall - - - 150 Lamps ------ 87 Lamp Black - - - - 290 Lanchester - - - - 150 Lawes, the Four - - - 195 Lawrence Chapel - - - 19 Lead ------ 285 Leazes .----- 84 Legions, Roman, in Britain 214 Libraries in Newcastle 37, 39 Limestone - - - Literary Institutions Little Chesters - - St Luke's Hospital Lumley Castle - - House - - Lunatic Asylum - - Lying-in Hospital M Maiden Way - - Maison de Dieu - - Magdalen Hospital 258 37 194 45 148 *7 AS 44 188 20 17 Magna - 197 Man-ion House March, John - - - - Markets - - - - - Marley, Sir John - - Marsdon - - - - Martin, Friar, of Alnwick St Mary, Chapel - - - Hospital - - Mayor's Court - - - Mayor's Place of Election Medical Establishments Meeting Houses - - - Mttal Stone - - - - St Michael's Priory - - Milburne House - - - Mills, Corn - - - - Minster Acres - - - Monkche»ter - - - - Monk's Stone - - - Monkwcarmouih . - - 62 106 71 ™5 14* 14 *9 16 93 17 46 30 260 15 166 292 161 3 174 143 C C 302 INDEX. Page. Moor, Nuns - - - - 85 — Town - - - - 85 Moot Hall 6 Mosley Street - - - Mosstroopers - - Mysteries, the Twelve N Newburne - - - Newgate - - - - — Street - - New Road News-papers 79 192 97 164 61 76 83 ^93 St Nicholas' Charity School 35 Church Library Northumberland House —— Street Nunnery - - - - On-setters Overmen Ovingham Ouseburn 3 66 77 10 274 273 163 83 } Pandon - - - - Gate - - - Pants - - - - - Paper, Brown - - ■ Parade * - - - - Parishes, limits of, in Newcastle - - - Penshaw - - - - Percy Street - - - Petriana - - - - St Peter's - - - - Pigg*s Folly - - - Pilgrim's Inn - - - Pilgrim Street - - - - 78 Pillars in Coal Pits - - 271 Pleasant Row - - - 82 Pons -ffihi,or Newcastle 1,181 Population of Newcastle 99 Portgate ----- 186 Portraits - - - - 4I>6° Post Office, Newcastle 63 . : Gateshead 128 Post Stone - - - - 250 Potteries ----- 289 Pnsaaonstratensian Priory 22| - 79 9 86 291 77 23 148 - 77 - 201 * 22 - 167 67,78 Pagi, Prestwick Carr - - • 167 Prisons ------ 61 Privileges of Newcastle 87 Procolitia ----- 187 Promenade - - - - 84 Prudhoe Castle - - - 161 Prusiate of Iron » - - 286 Putters ------ 274 Pye powder Courts 95 Quarter Sessions for") , Newcastle $ Quay-side ----- 74 R Race Ground - - - - 85 Ravensworth Castle - 150 Recovery, House of - - 43 Redheugh ----- 129 Refineries of Lead - - 286 Registers of All Saints 28 St Andrew's 27 Benwell Chapel 20 — — Gateshead 119 St John's 27 St Nicholas 26 Religious Houses - - - 10 Rhodes, Robert - - - 103 Ring, Anecdote concerning 74 — — Curious - - 81, 186 Rise and Dip of Strata Rock Coal - - - - Roman Wall Rutchester Ryton - - Sac, Friars of - - Sal-ammoniac - - ■ Salmon - - - - Fisheries - ■ Saltwellside-Grange Saltworks - - - Sandhill Market - ■ Sandgate - - - Sand-stone - - ■ Saville Row - - Scilchester - - - Schist us - - - Schools - - - - Scotch Inn • -•■ * 256 247 177 184 160 14 291 73 292 130 291 73 82 260 77 187 260 - 33 68 INDEX. 303 Page. Scrope's House - - - - 67 Seals, Impressionsof 89, 119, 126 Seaton Delaval - - - 175 Segedunum - - - - I 80 Sever us*s Wall - - - 177 Shafts of a Coal Mine 271 Sheriff's Court - - - 93 Shewing Shields - - - 191 Shield Field - - - - 82 Shields, North - - - 170 — South - - - 131 Shifters ----- 274 Side ------ 67, 78 Skreeners — — 275 Sluice — — 175 Soaperies — — 291 Soda — — — 291 Societies, Benefit - - - 54 — Benevolent 55 Bible — 54 — — — — ofClergymen'sSonsjo —- — Friendless Poor 54 1 Religious Tract 55 - Schoolmaster's 5$ " Widows of Dis- senting Ministers 52 Spinning Manufactories 293 Troubles JPagc. — 256 Tuthill, meaning of the 7 Name — — J 65 Tunnocelum — — 210 Tyne Tynemouth V — 100 17a Vessels, Trad Vestry Books Vicarage Viewer ing — , Gateshead 294 no 68 *73 Vindobala — — 184 Vindolana - — 194 Splint Coal — Steam Engines- Sugar Refineries Sunderland — Swalwell Swirle, note . Coal Trade Tanfield — — Arch — — Taverns — — Theatre — — Thirlwall Castle — Thornton, Roger 9, 24, 28 Tombs — — Tract, Religious Society TraJe and Manufactures Trappers — — Trinity House — '■ School of — 247 280 291 145 228 158 77 156 157 ^93 66 199 102 24 55 282 274 63 35 W Waggons — — 241, 243 Waggon- ways — 243, 241 Wailers — — 275 Walls'-end — 169, 180 Walls in Coal Mines 271 — of Newcastle 7, 10 Wall knoll — 15, 80 Walltown — — 179 Walwick Chesters 187 Ward's Almshouse 74 Warden's Close — 43 Wardley — — 131 Wastemen — — 273 Watchcross — — 205 Water,supplyof,toNewcastie86 Watling Street Well at Walltown Westgate — Street Westmorland Place Westoe — - Wnarfingers — Whickham — Whinstone — — Whitburn — White Friars — Winlaton — Winning Coal - Headways Wolsington — Wool Market — Wylam — 187 197 9 76 67 142 294 157 258 143 15 158 269 271 166 74 163 304 ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. Page, Line. % 23 Read)*. Corinthian pillar; large flag's horns ; layers of grafs, ferns, and boughs of oak and birch, matted together ; horfe dung ; mules {hoes ; and other natural and Roman antiquities were dis- covered. 7 I % After Britain, read. Their figure is a double, oblong square, forty- eight yards long, and twenty-four wide. The ground-floor is partly below the fur- face, and confifts of cells and other apartments for the criminal* during the time of the affizes^ thefe are all covered with flrong Roman arches. Above them, in the centre of the building, is^an entrance-hall, and grand jury room, on each side of which are the courts, each measuring fixty feet by thirty-five, and behind them apartments for the judges, juries, witnesses, &c. Over these are offices for the gaoler, clerk of the peace, and other officers; and over the grand jury room, an apartment for the council. The north elevation has a Grecian Doric portico of four pillars, where is the door to the common hall that leads to the courts and grand-jury rooms at the extremities on this fide are the entrances for the public, who ftand on rows of fleps rising behind each other. The fouth elevation is taken from the Parthenon in Athens, having a Grecian Doric portico of fix pillars, each five feet in diameter, and twenty- eight feet high. The foundations are laid on ftrong clay, and conftructed of very large blocks of freeftone. The whole of the mafonry is in* deed of a very fuperior kind, the centre of the walls being executed with fquared afhiars, and their outfide finely polifhed. 1 5 4 For Edward \\\,reid Edward i. ib* ib &C For Carmalites, read Carmelites. %% 38 St Peter's j* a corruption of Sir Peter's, from Sir Peter Riddell, who had a leafe of the place. Brand i 459. 33 9 For Farenham, read Farneham. — iz /orCarlife read \. arlifle. 33 24 Ihe ballaft fhore alluded to by Grey, was oppofite St Ann's Chapel: it exifkd in 1548, as a place then " commonly called the Ballaft Shoars," In ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. 303 Page* Line, 1600, leafes were granted of " St Lawrence with the Ballad Shores on the eaft and weft fide of Oufeburn:" but no mention occurs of the time when the burial ground commenced here. $$ 6 For precedency, read prefidency. 70 25 For people, raking 71 Markets. The Wheat-Market has been removed into the area above St Nicholas Church: the Sandhill and Poultry Markets, to the New Buicher Market. %S 28 After 'Trent, add. On the fouth-eaft fide of the Church Quarry, on Gatefhtad /ell, there is a very ex- tensive doubleline of the fites of tents, which were formerly eredted during the time tnat races were held there The Race Ground was on the plain between the Church Quarry and Ayton Banks. Ill Before Gateshead, read: The Depot for artillery, on the Town Moor, was begun in 1805, in v/hich year the Magazine was built. The (tables are adapted for 188 horfes, befide* thofe for officers and the fick horfe-hofpital, which hold 16 mo^e: thtfe, with the artillery men, drivers, and offi. cers barracks, the cooking and cleaning houfes, forage flieds, and other offices were finished by the latter end of 1807, fince which time, fome other additions have been made, and an order ha c been lately given for erecting a canteen and officers meis -oam. The whole area, containing eleven acres, is girt with a high ftone wall, and is h Id of the Mayor and Burgefses of Newcaftle, at the annual rent of five pounds an acre. Mr Wyat fumiflied the defign; and the engineers were Capt Hartcap, and Lieut. 'Jold. Capt. Geary the firft Britilh officer who fell in the prefent war in Portugal, was depury engineer: thefe gentlemen were fucceeded by Col De Bufze, who finished the buildings. Upwards of forty thoufand pounds have been expended upon this depot 118 13 After 18 11, add. Rooms for three Bede-men, inferib- ed in the front, KING JAMES'S HOSPITAL REBUILT IN M DCCC XII. have been erecTed by the Rev. J. Collinfon, A. M. rector of this parifh. 126 25 For which, read and r — and I 26, after years, ada t a Court of Frank pledge and Court- baron for the manor of Gatelhead, has, &c. 306 ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. Page, Line* 127 I For 1446 read 1 646. 13a 27 After Church, add* a fmall iilver coin of Aulus Vitel- lius in excellent preft rvation, was found in the parfonage garden, in 18 12 158 22 After portico, aad, it was confecrated July the thirti- eth, i8i2,by the Bifliop of Durham. 167 19 For C. W. tfrandling, read C. J Brandling. 171 25 Read, taken by the i>cots,in 1644; rebuilt with ftone in 1672; and, &c. Brand it , 331, 463, 176 1, 2 About half this impreflion has thefe lines improper- ly difpofed. 185 5 For Valtntifimi, read Velentifimo. 188 ao For executed, read reprefcnted. 191 % For writing, read writings, and line I5 >t /or RAETICS, readRAETlCVS. 280 23,24 For them, read it. 294 ¥be prfent Wharfingers in Neivcajlle, are: Nichol, Lud- low & Co High Crane Thomas Robfon. Quay. Thomas Snaith, Broad Chare. Hood and Ryle, Quav. Wm. Anderfon and Son, Pilgrim Street. Coulfon Hall, & Co. Quay. J. H Huafon, Quay. William Thompfon, Quay. A fart of this Imprejfion is correff. Akenhead & Sons, Printers, Newcaftle. D. Akenhead # Sons have lately published SHIP OWNER'S MANUAL, AND SEA-FARING MAN'S ASSISTANT: Or, an Epitome of the Laws and Regulations relative to the Ship Owner and Merchant; arranged under the following Heads. — Navigation, Smuggling, Manifefts, Coafting Trade, Convoys, Fiflieries, Aliens PafTengers, Quarantine, Ship Own- ers and Matters, Ship Matters and Seames, Marine Stores, Impreffing, Admiralty, Freight, Charter-party and Demurrage, Factorage, Marine Infurance, Salvage, Arbitration, Difburfe- ments and Ship Accounts, Bills of Exchange, Foreign Ex- changes Weights and Meafures of various Countries, Coal Trade Regulations and Coal Accounts, Mifcellaneous Informa- tion, coLttfting of Harbour Regulations and Charges, Dock Dues, Pilotage, Signals, and a Variety of ufeful Tables, &c. &c. To which are adaed, Tables of the New Duties of Cuftoms and Excife; together with the Bounties, Drawbacks, and Al- lowances; the Countervailing Duties, payable on all Goods imported into Great Britain and Ireland refpecShvely; the Sound Duties; tne Port Charges there; and other Information, neceffary to the Ship Matter and Merchant; and a Lift of the Stamp Duties. — Tbe Tenth Edition—Price iQs,(>fl.fiwe