aass_^E32. 
 Book ^5_ 
 

 
I» 
 
THE 
 
 GARDENER^S TEXT-BOOK: 
 
 COXTAINIHQ 
 
 PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS 
 
 CPON THB 
 
 FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT 
 
 0? 
 
 THE KITCHEN GARDEN; 
 
 AND FOB 
 
 TEE CULTURE AND DOMESTIC USE OF ITS VEGETABLES 
 FRUITS, AND MEDlCmAL HERBS. 
 
 BY 
 
 PETER ADAM SCHENCK, 
 
 FORMERLY GARDENEft TO KDWARD C. WILLIAMS, ESQ. 
 
 " Hence Summer has her riches, Autumn hence, 
 And hence e'en Winter fills his withered hand 
 ■With blushii'g fruits, and plenty not his o^vn." 
 
 L. 0. MOOnE, AGRICULTURAL BOOK- PUBLISHED, 
 
 (LATE C. M. 8AXTON A CO.,) 
 
 No. 410 FULTON STREET. 
 1807. 
 

 ^f 
 
 Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1S51, by 
 
 .TOIIX P. JEWKTT .St CO., 
 
 \\\ the Clerk's Office of iho Tii-trict Court of th',- Tn.^inct of Massachus^tt*. 
 
 43q l\| 
 
 ^3 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 INTRODUCTION, 5-13 
 
 THE FORMATION OF A KITCHEN GARDEN, - 15—37 
 
 THE SITUATION, 15 
 
 THE SOIL, 16 
 
 SIZE AND SHAPE, - 13 
 
 ENCLOSURE, : . . 19 
 
 INTERNAL ARRANGEMENTS, - - - - 20 
 
 THE CISTERN, 23 
 
 THE FORCING-PIT, 26 
 
 THE TOOL HOUSE AND ITS CONTENTS, - 27 
 
 GENERAL MANAGEMENT, .... 33— S4 
 
 THE EMPLOYMENT OF TIME, - - . - 3S 
 A PROGRAMME OF LABOR, .... 41 
 
 DEPTH AND MELLOWNESS OF THE SOIL, - 42 
 
 ^LiNL'RES, 46 
 
 ROTATION OF CROPS, 50 
 
 INDICATIONS OF RAIN, 52 
 
 SELECTION OF SEEDS, 54 
 
 SOWING, 55 
 
 CULTIVATION WITH THE HOE, ... 59 
 
 DESTRUCTION OF VERMIN, .... 62 
 
 TRANSPLANTING, 69 
 
 APPLICATION OF WATER, 71 
 
 ' SAVING SEED, - 73 
 
 EARLY PLANTS FOR SPRING USE, - - 76 
 FORCING VEGETATION, 78 
 
 A DICTIONARY OF THE VEGETABLES, FRUITS AND 
 MEDICINAL HERBS USUALLY CULTIVATED IN 
 A KITCHEN GARDEN, THEIR HISTORY, VARIE- 
 TIES, CULTURE AND USE. - - - 65—299 
 
ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 The publishers introduce tliis little volume to 
 the notice of the public, with confidence in its 
 merits, and adaptation to the wants of that class for 
 whom it is designed. The author has aimed to give 
 thorough and practical directions upon the forma- 
 tion and management of the family kitchen garden, 
 and upon the cultivation of our common vegetables, 
 fruits and medicinal herbs, in a clear, simple manner, 
 without any attempt at elegance of style. He here 
 details what he has learned from personal experience, 
 as compared with, and enlarged by, the published 
 observations of others upon the same subject. For 
 this reason, it is believed that the work will be found 
 more generally useful, than though it were of a 
 strictly local character. The numerous receipts 
 scattered through the pages, will be appreciated by 
 the housekeeper, and they add much to the value of 
 the other matter. Many families do not derive half 
 the satisfaction and profit from their garden^, which 
 they might if acquainted with the best modes of pre- 
 paring its vegetables and fruits for the table. The 
 author and publishers have spared neither pains nor 
 expense to render this treatise, although modest in 
 price as well as in size, a complete and reliable 
 Text-Book upon kitchen gardening ; and they in- 
 dulge the hope, that it will be received with that 
 favor to which they think it entitled. 
 
 John P. Jewett & Co. 
 ^March 1st, 1851. 
 
THE GAllDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 IXTRODUCTIO^T. 
 
 A Kitchen Garden is, properly, a piece of ground devoted 
 to the culture of esculent vegetables alone ; but, it has become 
 customary also to include within its limits, several varieties of 
 fruit, and such herbs as are considered most valuable for me- 
 dicinal purposes. Large fruit trees belong of right to the or- 
 chard, because when placed in a garden, it will be found that 
 their extended roots greatly impoverish the soil, while their 
 overhanging branches are injurious to nearly every kind of 
 vegetation which may be in tlieir vicinity. 
 
 It is gratifying to notice among our population a growing 
 taste for liorticultural pursuits. Our wide-spread country em- 
 braces every variety of soil and climate, essential to the pro- 
 duction of t!ie choicest fruits and vegetables in their perfection. 
 But, it would seem that, until within a fvw years, we have 
 been strangely unmindful of these advantages with which we 
 are favored by nature, and that in the management of the 
 kitchen garden, we have been far behind the peasantry of 
 some European states. 
 
 The common day laborer of England, a man of much less 
 
 inteUigence and shrewdness tlian tlie greater portion of our 
 
 working classes, is distinguished by a remarkable degree of 
 
 •skill and taste in the cultivation and embellishment of the lit- 
 
 ff 1* 
 
6 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 tie spot of ground connected with his dwelling. Here it is 
 that he spends the odd moments of time between his regular 
 hours of labor ; and while he bestows the greatest attention up- 
 on the vegetables which are afterwards to grace his humble 
 board, he does not forget the excellent effect of a few flowers 
 in the door-yard. The stranger who passes along the road 
 cannot fail to infer that comfort and happiness preside in that 
 cottage, however lowly may be its roof, and however rustic 
 and uHpolished may be its inmates. 
 
 The state of things in this country was formerly very dif- 
 ferent. Although gardens were common, yet from the little 
 interest which they excited in their owners, there could not 
 have been much pleasure or profit attending their cultivation. 
 The farmer thought it necessary to devote himself exclusively 
 to his farm, and the mechanic preferred buying from others, to 
 the trouble of supplying his wants by the culture of his own 
 ground. 
 
 This apathy with which we were once justly charged by 
 intelligent travellers, is fast wearing away, and we are gradu- 
 ally becoming aware of the claims which the art of kitchen 
 gardening has upon our attention. Much good has been ac- 
 complished through the agency of the horticultural societies 
 that are now established in several sections. Intelligent and 
 practical men have devoted their pens to the subject, and have 
 already given us many treatises which are valuable alike for 
 their originality, discrimination and good sense. Within a few 
 years, several choice varieties of fruit have been propagated, 
 and numerous additions made to our list of table esculents. 
 Others with wliich we were little acquainted, have been 
 brought into common use. The well-known tomato, which is 
 now highly esteemed in all kitchens, was formerly raised in 
 the flower garden under the name of love-apple, and was by 
 some persons considered poisonous. We are thus awaking to 
 the importance of the kitchen garden as an appendage to eve* 
 
INTRODUCTION. 7 
 
 ry country house ; and we find that its cultivation is beneficial 
 to health and murals, as well as productive of pleasiu-e and 
 profit. 
 
 To labor is our common lot — a universal duty prescribed 
 by an alLwise Providence before the commission of sin. Ad- 
 am, the father of us all. was placed in a garden " to dress it 
 and to keep it." Man was never made to pass his life in idle- 
 ness ; the very organ iza ion of his mind and body proves con- 
 clusively that neither health nor happiness could be the portion 
 of inactivity. The experience of physicians has demonstrated 
 that the mind and the body should both be exercised, in a rea- 
 sonable manner, and at suitable intervals ; that the one ought 
 not to be restricted to a single cliain of thought, any more than 
 that the otlier should be confined in one wearisome position. 
 The author may kiU liimself by close application to his desk, 
 giving his brain no rest, and yet keeping his limbs fixed in 
 the chair. Wliere both are properly exercised, the muscular 
 system is made strong, the blood courses through its accus- 
 tomed channels with a healthful impulse, the appetite be- 
 comes regular, while the mind itself remains compo-ed and 
 tranquil. Thus the necessity for labor is of divine institution, 
 and we find it not only the source of health and pleasm'e, but 
 also the very basis of our worldly prosperity. 
 
 To be thus beneficial, our labor must have for its object 
 t^ome useful purpose, sucli an one as will be of advantage to 
 ourselves, or to our fellow-men. The turning of a crank is of 
 itself tedious, but so soon as the crank is connected witli ma- 
 chinery, the task is rendered a source of gratification. What 
 person with three ideas in his head, would be willing to sink 
 a drill in the block of granite, unless it were for the reception 
 of gunpowder by which the rock is to be shattered into frag- 
 ments ? What dairy maid would be willing to operate the 
 chvuTi without the expectation of making butter ? Who would 
 be content to trundle an empty wheelbarrow ? Labor must 
 
8 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 be useful, in order to be tlius blessed. In no other sense "will 
 the -words of the poet be true : — 
 
 " From labor, henUh ; from liealth, contentment springs ; 
 Couteiitmeut opes the source of every joy." 
 
 And where, we may now with propriety inquire — where 
 can be found any employment which is more Avorthy the at- 
 tention of liim who seeks after health and happiness, than the 
 cultivation of the kitchen garden ? The gardener has some 
 useful object constantly in view. While turning over the 
 stubborn soil — while clierii^hing the feeble plants in all stages 
 of their growth ; in the cold of winter, when he is making 
 ready for the advent of spring— in the noon-day heat of sum- 
 mer ; he is laboiing in the hope of an abundant reward. He 
 feeds himself, and he feeds otliers. That which his hard toil 
 has brought to maturity, graces the table of the wealthy, as 
 well as that of the humble day-laborer. 
 
 Gardening was man's first occupation, when in a state of 
 innocence. He takes a harmless delight in the gradual progress 
 of his crops. He acquires habits of industry, and learns to 
 economize time, for his woi"k is regulated by the succession of 
 the sea.sons, that roll around in their wonted course. In 
 adapting the soil to the wants of different vegetables, in ar- 
 ranging a rotation of crop?;, and in providing for future contin- 
 gencies, he exercises foi-ethought, and is taught to do nothing 
 rashly, or without due reflection. When the insects have de- 
 stroyed the plants of one sowing, he is led to persevere, and to 
 sow again, in the hopes of better fortune. By the care of his 
 beds and walks, he becomes orderly and neat in other things. 
 Even his disposition Avill be improved. If an idle, worthless 
 fellow can be coaxed into a garden, the work of his reformation 
 is already commenced. The crabbed and stingy will in time 
 become generous, for he soon learns the pleasure of giving of 
 
INTRODUCTION. 9 
 
 his abundance to those who are less favorably situated than 
 himself. 
 
 We all like an occasional change, either in our mode of 
 living, or in the objects by which we are surrounded. The 
 same fof>t-path at length loses its interest for the pedestrian, 
 and he wishes to turn his steps into an unexplored track. In 
 the garden, there is a regular succession of new beauties and 
 wonders to gratify the eye, or to elevate the mind. Not only 
 has each season its particular characteristics, but on each day 
 is there presented some unexpected novelty to attract the at- 
 tention. The germination of the seed, the development of the 
 Btem and branches, the bursting forth of the flower, and the 
 perfection of the fruit, are only a few of the many incidents of 
 the horticultural year. The cultivator's interest is awakened 
 at the outset of his labors, and it gradually strengthens with 
 the progress of the months. As soon as the young plant rears 
 its tiny head above ground, it is the object of his watchful 
 care — to shield it from injury, and to hasten its growth. Eve- 
 ry operation of culture, every natural phenomenon, is calcula- 
 ted to excite emotions of pleasure, and to direct the psalm of 
 praise to the Giver of all good. 
 
 The mental and ^physical faculties are made strong, while 
 the gentler feelings of the soul are quickened, and the strong- 
 est passions of our nature are subdued. For these reasons, a 
 celebrated medical auth(»rity has said, " Horticulture and ag- 
 riculture are better fitted for the promotion of health and 
 sound morals, than any other occupation." 
 
 We cannot think less favorably of the products of a garden, 
 in respect to their influence upon liealth. They furnish us with 
 the substantial of life, and such of the delicacies as do not vi- 
 tiate or corrupt. They have been considered by some anato- 
 mists as man's natural food, and that they should form the ba- 
 sis of every system of diet, is agreed by aU. Nothing can be 
 more nutritious, or more palatable — particularly in the sum- 
 
10 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 mer months, when the free use of animal flesh is most hurtful 
 to the system. He who has once been accustomed to good, 
 fresh vegetables atid fruits, knows how to estimate their value 
 aright, and will admit how difficult it would be for him to get 
 along without them. Their excellence is vastly increased, 
 when they happen to be the products of one's own land, or 
 have been watered by the sweat of his own bi"ow, and nurtur- 
 ed by his care. No other person enjoys them so much as he. 
 They seem to have an additional flavor, and it is reasonable to 
 suppose that they are more grateful to the stomach. " Who 
 so valueth," says an ancient worthy, " or eateth with so keen 
 a relish, the fruit he buyeth of the stall- woman in a market, as 
 that which his own hand hath gathered after great pains, and, 
 it may be, peril, encountered in the search ?" 
 
 Kitchen gardeni\ig is also a source of profit. To be sure, 
 it is ordinarily looked upon as a very small and unimijortant 
 business. Men of large capital, who are engaged in gigantic 
 speculations, may sneer at the idea of gardening being recom- 
 mended on account of the profit which attends it. This is a 
 mistaken notion, for it appears from statistics that no occupa- 
 tion is more certain of reward than the cultivation of the 
 ground ; Avhile that Commerce is a great lottery, in which 
 more tlian ninety-five out of a hundred adventurers draw 
 blanks. 
 
 And, even the farmer looks down upon the kitchen garden 
 as a small afRiir, ahnost beneath his notice. It is indeed of 
 small size, when compared with the ample fields of a farm. 
 But, tliis is not the proper way of estimating their relative im- 
 portance. A farm is not valuable in proportion to the num- 
 ber of its acres, so much as in proportion to the quantity and 
 quality of its productions. Hence a tract comprising a dozen 
 acre's, may bo quite as valuable to the owner, as a tract of five 
 hundred. In tlie same way, we sliould judge of the kitchen 
 garden. If the annual income of a single acre, over and above 
 
INTRODUCTION. n 
 
 the expense of cultivation, can be made greater than the net 
 linnual gain of five acres, Tvhich tract is most profitable ? — - 
 which the most worthy of attention ? 
 
 No land pays a higher rate of interest than the humble, 
 despised garden. The quantity of vegetables which it can be 
 made to produce, almost exceeds belief; and farmers may 
 well open their eyes, when told that under good management 
 two acres of a garden, will be mure profitable ihan twenty 
 acres of a farm, as it is usually conducted. In the vicinity of 
 cities and hirge to"wns, the raising of vegetables for market is 
 conducted on a large scale, and is said to be very lucrative. 
 
 Every person who is acquainted with the vai"ied produc- 
 tions of the kitchen garden, the sustenance which they alibrd, 
 and their cash value, will admit its importance to all living in 
 the country, whether they be farmers or mechanics. For a 
 family of moderate size, only a small space of ground is re- 
 quired for the supply of their table throughout the year. The 
 labor and expense of cultivation may be rendered very light, 
 so that while there is only a trifling outlay, the produce ren- 
 ders unnecessary the purchase of a substitute. This can, with 
 propriety, be termed profit, because that consists of money 
 saved, as well as of money earned. If the poor man, by his 
 own labor at odd moments of time, can secure an abundance 
 of nutritious food for his family, why it is plain that he there- 
 by avoids the expenditure of just so much as other vegeta- 
 bles, or an extra quantity of meat, would have cost. The 
 amount so saved is nothing else than clear profit. Should he 
 raise more than he needs for his own household, he can gen- 
 erally dispose of it at good prices among the inhabitants of tiie 
 next village ; and in this way he will be remunerated for the 
 necessary purchase of tools and seeds. 
 
 There are, however, other reasons why gardens should be 
 common, of more weight than the mere commercial value of 
 their productions. They contribute largely to the resources of 
 
1 2 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 good living. Their fruits and vegetables are considered ne« 
 cessai-ies on the tables of the rich. How insipid would soups 
 be, if it were not fc^r the vegetables of which they are compo- 
 sed. And, in the succeeding courses, there would be an 
 insupportable monotony, if there were no potatoes, no 
 peas, no beans, no cauliflower, no spinach, no celery ; nor 
 grapes, nor strawberries, nor gooseberries, nor raspberries. 
 The poor can derive almost their whole living from the gar- 
 den. Even the very food which is required to keep soul and 
 body together, must unavoidably, when purchased, be of the 
 cheapest description. If they have little money to spend in 
 obtaining the substantials of life, they certainly cannot regale 
 themselves with its delicacies, however agreeable they might 
 be to the palate. By having gardens, they are enabled to 
 feast ujDon nature's bounties with as much satisfaction as any 
 nobleman can derive from his well-spread board. 
 
 But little need be said of the dignity of horticulture as an 
 occupation. It has engaged the attention, and received the 
 approval, of the most distinguished men in all ages of the 
 world. The Creator assigned a garden, " planted " by Him- 
 self, as the abode of our first parents. The gardens of Geth- 
 semane, and of Joseph of Arimathea, will never be forgotten 
 as long as the liistory of tlie Divine Mediator continues to be 
 read. The noblest families of Rome — the Cicerones, the Fa- 
 bii, the Lentuli, and the Pisones — felt not asliamed to bear the 
 names of tlie vetch, the bean, the tare, and the pea, common 
 vegetables which had been introduced by their ancestors. 
 
 Socrates has called the cultivation of the earth, " an excel- 
 lent employment, most wortliy the application of man, the 
 most ancient, and the most suitable to iiis nature ; it is the 
 common nurse of all persons, in every age and condition of 
 life ; it is tlie source of health, strength, plenty and riches, and 
 of a thousand sober delights and honest pleasures. It is the 
 mistress and school of sobriety, temperance, justice, religion, 
 
INTRODUCTION. 1 3 
 
 and, in short, of all the virtues, civil and military." Lord Ba- 
 con declared gardening to be "the purest of human pleasures ;" 
 another author called it, " the most rational of all recreations;" 
 and Mr. Roscoe said, " If I was asked -^hom I consider to be 
 the happiest of the human race, I sliould answer those "who 
 cultivate the land by their own hands." 
 
 Altliough it is easy to discover an increased attention to 
 the kitchen garden, during the last dozen years, yet it must be 
 acknowledged by every candid observer, tliat it does not at 
 the present day excite that interest which it merits. We 
 have sliown that it not only is profitable in a pecuniary point 
 of view, but is, moreover, conducive to health, happiness and 
 good morals. Surely, no appendage to a country house can 
 reflect greater credit upon the taste and judgment of the pro- 
 piietor. We would have it more common — we wish its pro- 
 ductions to be enjoyed as freely by the humble artisan, as by 
 the man of wealth who employs others to cultivate it. We 
 desire it to be connected with every farm house throughout 
 the lengtli and breadth of tlie land. It is better to have 
 gi'ound planted with useful vegetables, than to be overrun by 
 pestiferous weeds. The occupation is a noble one, and we 
 cannot think of any manual labor Avhich is more worthy the 
 notice of the gentleman and the student, or the farmer and 
 t])e mechanic. It becomes us not to neglect those treasures 
 of the vegetable kingdom, which a good Providence has ap- 
 pointed for our susti'uance and enjoyment, and wliich He has 
 been graciously pleased to place within oui- reach. 
 
 Q 
 
^<I» J ■ ■ t- m 
 
THE FORMATION OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. 
 
 THE SITUATION. 
 
 jS^ot a little judgment should be exercised in the selection 
 of the ground; for, as has been justly remarked, a poor situa- 
 tion cannot be improved, like a sterile soil, by skilful manage- 
 ment. The choice, when once made, is generally final. It 
 would be quite unprofitable, to say the least, for a person to 
 depend upon actual experunent, and to keep shifting his 
 frames and plants from one place to another, imtil he can find 
 one perfectly satisfactory. A garden spot is intended for a 
 hfe time, and it, therefore, behooves the owmer not to make a 
 selection of the site, until he shall have given due consideration 
 to the respective advantages and disadvantages of such lo- 
 caUties as present themselves to his notice. But we would, 
 at the same time, remind him, that it is very seldom a situa- 
 tion can be found which is in every way desirable. He must 
 select the best one that his premises offer, and then exercise 
 his ingenuity in remedying the defects, as well as in improving 
 the advantages of nature. 
 
 The first thought should always be regarding the aspect 
 or exposure. Although authorities apparently differ much on 
 tliis important point, yet, after all, it would seem that a pref- 
 erence i5 given to a gentle inchnation towards the south-east. 
 A nortliern aspect may then be considered as generally un- 
 favorable ; still, on some accounts, it is to be desired. Several 
 kinds of vegetables, — such as spinach, cauliflower, and peas, 
 yield mofe abundantly, especially in dry seasons, when not 
 exposed to the full power of the sun. Vegetable growth is 
 also in the same way retarded, and will thereby afford a long 
 
16 
 
 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 succession of crops, instead of running up to seed in the early 
 part of summer. It miglit, therefore, be deemed advisable to 
 select an exposure to two or three different points of the com- 
 pass. Perhaps a small knoll in the centre of the grounds 
 "would be considered advantageous. The inclination should in 
 all cases be slight. Where it is so great that there is danger 
 of the soil being waslied away by heavy rains, it would be 
 well to throw up a series of terraces, faced with tiu-f 
 
 A moderate elevation should be secured, if possible. The 
 garden ought to be neither on a hill, nor in a valley, as they 
 are equally objectionable ; the first being exposed to inclem- 
 ent winds, and tlie second to damp vapors, early frost, and that 
 sourness of the soil which is so difficult to eradicate. 
 
 Convenience of access is by no means the most unimpor- 
 tant point to be borne in mind. The garden ought to be near 
 the stable whence supplied with manure, and not far distant 
 from the dwelling-house, "lest," as Dr. Deane quaintly ob- 
 serves, "being too much out of sight, it should be out of mind, 
 and the necessary cjjltm-e of it too much neglected." 
 
 THE SOIL. 
 
 Tlie best soil for general purposes is a rich sandy loam, 
 two or three feet deep, well drained, and sufficiently mellow 
 to be easy of cultivation at any season of the year wdien not 
 frozen. Some authors pretend to say, that in a good garden 
 two varieties of soil are necessaiy. However desirable this 
 may be on some accounts, we think that where a strict rotation 
 is observed, a healthy loam of rather a sandy character will 
 be sufficient. 
 
 Should circumstances render necessary the selection of a 
 loose sand, a hard gravel, or a fe:iff, heavy clay — which may 
 be considered the very worst kinds of soil for culture — their 
 peculiar characteristics must first be corrected, before they 
 can be cropped with success. T^ sand is so porous that it 
 
FOIDIATION OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. J 7 
 
 cannot retain manui-e and moisture for any length of time, 
 while so permeable to heat that in hot weather its vegetation 
 will be parched and almost burned up. The gravel is still 
 worse, because when stirred by the spade, it becomes greedy> 
 swallows every ounce of nutriment fm^nished, and then cries 
 for more ; so that it has acquired the name of a " hungry " 
 soil. Indeed, the expense and difficulty of bringing it into 
 good condition are such, that we can scarcely recommend the 
 attempt. The heavy clay is bad for very different reasons. It 
 is tenacious and retentive of water, a property wliich is in- 
 jmious to almost every cuhnary vegetable ; with the adchtional 
 disadvantage that it cannot be worked when wet, thereby 
 causing a great loss of time in spring. 
 
 As the sand is light and porous, and the clay stiff and 
 heavy, by mixing them judiciously a very fine loam may be 
 obtained. The first named is also improved by the addition 
 of hme, plaster, ashes, and any kind of vegetable manure ; and 
 the second, by lime, htter, horsedung, or anything which tends 
 to the reparation of its particles. Lime and plaster operate 
 favorably upon both, correcting the looseness of the one, and 
 the tenacity of the other. Some persons even go to the ex- 
 pense of carting good soil from a distance ; they should always 
 select that which is rich and full of vegetable fibre, such as is 
 found in a wood-lot, or a field which has long lain fallow. 
 This practice is much • followed in Great Britain, but labor is 
 too dear for its general adoption in this country. We have 
 read of the soil in the kitchen garden belonging to the Duke 
 of Buccleugh, twelve acres in extent, having been filled in to 
 the depth of three feet. It can easily be calculated by the 
 reader, that for such an enormous labor, the revenues of none 
 other than a duke would be sufficient. Nevertheless, it is a 
 maxim quite applicable to this country, that a judicious ex- 
 penditure at the outset, will do much for subsequent success 
 and satisfaction. 
 
 If both situation and soil be good, then there will be httle 
 2# 
 
18 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 difficulty in obtaining a productive garden ; if otherwise, their 
 disadvantages must be overcome as far as possible bj in- 
 creased attention and perseverance. 
 
 SIZE AND SHAPE. 
 
 These particulars are to be determined wholly by circum- 
 stances, — the nature of the ground, as well as the wants and 
 ability of the owner. 
 
 It may serve as some criterion for the reader, to state that 
 a single acre will furnish steady employment for one man, 
 who Avill probably need an assistant at the busy periods of 
 the year.- But the produce of that acre varies so much with 
 locality, season and management, that it is impossible to make 
 any estimate of the space required to supply the wants of a 
 certain number of individuals. It must in every case be de- 
 cided by the size of the family, their partiality for vegetables, 
 and the fertility of the ground. 
 
 It is a primary principle in horticulture, to raise the greatest 
 quantity from the smallest surfece. Then, is it not better to 
 start with a small garden, to till it well, and, if it be found 
 insufficient, to add to its dimensions ; rather than to attempt 
 the cultui'e of too much, so as to become discouraged at not 
 receiving even interest upon the investment of capital and 
 labor ? 
 
 The amount which one rod of land can be made to produce, 
 is truly astonishing. An old story tells the experience of a 
 Roman vine-dresser, who had two daughters. When the eld- 
 est was married, he set a-ide for her portion one third of the 
 vineyard ; notwithstanding whicli, he still obtained the same 
 quantity of fruit as before. And when the youngest was 
 married, he gave her one half of the ground that remained, 
 leaving to himself only a third part of the original tract ; still 
 the produce was undiminished. Tliis illustrates the value of 
 small holdings, and shows that a single rod may be made to 
 
FORMATION OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. jg 
 
 yield as much as a lot several times larger, provided a reason- 
 able degree of skill be exercised in its cultivation. We prefer 
 seeing a small garden "wliich is well managed, rather than a 
 large one half overgrown with weeds. 
 
 As regards shape, that must be determined by individual 
 taste, as well as by the position of the ground. However, it 
 is well to state that the square and parallelogram are de- 
 servedly approved forms, because adapted to a cheap, easy 
 and regular arrangement of the beds and walks. The paral- 
 lelogram, if running cast and west, has (lie further advantage 
 of a long, warm border facing the south, with one of equal 
 length facing the nortli ; which borders, from the difference in 
 their exposure to the sun, are excellent locations for early and 
 late crops. 
 
 ENCLOSURE. 
 
 Shelter of some kind is needed upon the nortli and west 
 sides. It is generally known, that on a north border protected 
 by a high, close fence, small plajits, like lettuce and radishes, 
 may be brought forward from ten days to a fortnight earlier 
 in spring, than when sown in an open compartment ; and it is, 
 moreover, an excellent situation for tender cauliflowers from 
 tlie hot-bed, or for such hardy vegetables as are allowed to 
 remain in the ground through the winter. Low buildings at 
 the north-east corner, will do much in breaking the force of 
 strong, piercing winds from that quarter. But the \dcinity of 
 large trees is to be avoided, because vegetation is injured by 
 their shade, and the soil robbed of its most valuable properties 
 by their spreading roots. 
 
 A high stone wall, laid in mortar, is considered the best 
 protection; but the cost of its erection will influence most 
 persons in favor of a wooden fence, made of either close boards, 
 or open pickets. In many places, the entire enclosure of the 
 garden is necessary, to guard against the encroachments of 
 
20 
 
 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 poultry or other two-legged animals. In this case, there will 
 be a fine border, having a northern aspect, for currants, and 
 such plants as lettuce and peas, which suffer when exposed to 
 the full influence of a summer sun. The sides of the wall, or 
 fence, may be covered with grape-vines, or trained fruit trees ; 
 thus, at the same time, being made to answer several impor- 
 tant purposes. 
 
 INTERNAL ARRANGEMENTS. 
 
 ''Strength may wield the ponderous spade, 
 May turn the clod, and wheel the compost home ; 
 But Elegance, chief grace the garden shows, 
 And most attractive, is the fair result 
 Of thought, the creature of a polished mind." 
 
 By the phrase " Internal Arrangements," we mean the di- 
 vision of the garden into quarters, borders, beds, Avalks, etc. 
 This laying out the ground must be regulated wholly by the 
 taste of the gardener, and we, tlierefore, venture to offer only 
 a few hints in regard thereto, instead of giving precise direc- 
 tions. As far as our opinion may be worthy of notice, we 
 should recommend regular divisions made by the square and 
 line. Such are most easily laid out, and most conveniently 
 kept in order. Serpentine walks, with crescent, star or bean- 
 shaped beds, are all very appropriate for the flower garden , 
 but they seem hardly suited for such hiunble tenants as cab- 
 bages, potatoes and onions. It is a rule to be constantly borne 
 in mind by the proprietor of a kitchen garden, that his main 
 object be utility, rather than ornament. 
 
 At least one path should be of sufficient width to admit 
 the wagon or cart, which will be required at certain seasons to 
 bring in dung, or to carry off produce. Foot-paths need not 
 be over three feet wide, and the alleys between the beds not 
 over twelve or eighteen inches. The border extends all 
 axound the garden, and is from six to ten feet wide, with a 
 
FORMATION OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. 21 
 
 foot-path in front. Tlie beds ought to be narrow — say four 
 or five feet wide, such being the most easy to cultivate. The 
 numerous alleys, of course, occupy a great deal of room, but 
 tliey possess the advantages of convenience and neatness, in 
 enabling the workmen to clean or gather the crops, without 
 trampling upon the beds. The principal paths might be dug 
 out to the depth of two feet or more, and then become places 
 of deposit for the stones removed fi'om the quarters. A thin 
 layer of gravel, tan, or even common earth, would render the 
 paths hard and dry to the feet at all seasons. 
 
 In connection with the above hints, a diagram or 
 plan of our own garden may be deemed not out of place. 
 It will be found on the following page. It is in the 
 shape of a parallelogram, running east and west, with 
 the entrance on the south side. The border inside the 
 fence is about eight feet wide; that part facing the west, 
 south and east, is adapted for such plants as require a warm 
 exposure, and the other for such as need shelter from the 
 mid-day sun. In front of the border is a foot-path three feet 
 wide. Directly in the centre of the garden is the tool-house, 
 beneath which is a good location for a cistern. Here meet 
 the four principal paths, which divide the large plat into four 
 equal parts, or " quarters" as they are generally called by 
 English gardeners. These paths are of sufficient width to 
 admit the wagon, wliich can turn around the tool-house, and 
 return through the same path, so as to avoid the necessity of 
 having more than one entrance. The quarters are of equal 
 size, so that a four-year rotation of crops may readily be 
 observed. The tool-house and cistern being in the centre, are 
 convenient of access from every part of the grounds. Cur- 
 rants, gooseberries, raspberries and quinces are set out on the 
 edges of the principal paths running north and south, and the 
 grape vines are trained upon the fence. Dwarf fruit trees 
 might be placed in the border, where neither their roots nor 
 their tops would be likely to occasion much injury. This 
 
22 FORMATION OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. 
 
GARDENERS TEXT -BOOK. 23 
 
 short description will enable any intelligent reader, who ap- 
 proves of the plan, to adopt it, with such modifications as his 
 own taste may suggest. 
 
 Although in this business of laying out a garden, ornament 
 is a mere secondary consideration, yet perfect regularity and 
 neatness are attained with httle extra labor, and they will cer- 
 tainly add much to the gardener's interest in the spot. The 
 eccentric William Cobbett said, that it is quite as reasonable for 
 a man to take pleasure in a garden which is tastefully arranged, 
 and tidily kept, as it is for a woman to delight in a fine di*ess ; 
 and he will be as anxious to preserve the neat appearance of 
 the beds and walks, as she to protect her gown from dust or 
 grease, from being fiided by the sun, or eaten by moths. We 
 all take best care of that wliich is most pleasant to the eye. 
 
 THE-CrSTERK 
 
 An abundant supply of water is of great advantage. Yege 
 tables recently transplanted often droop, and, if they do not 
 die, are much retarded in their growth for the want of moisture. 
 And in the middle of summer, the heat is sometimes so exces- 
 sive that the most promising plants " wilt down," as it is 
 termed, and nothing but. prompt attention will save them. In 
 our own grounds, we have often experienced the advantage of 
 applying water in such cases, even after the heads had fallen 
 over, and the stems had turned yellow for several inches above 
 the roots. 
 
 Loudon remaj-ks, that " many kitchen crops are lost, or pro- 
 duced of very inferior quality, for want of watering. Lettuces 
 and cabbages are often hard and stringy; turnips and radishes 
 do not swell; onions decay ; cauhfiowers die otf; and, in gene- 
 ral, in diy seasons, all the cruciferce become stinted or covered 
 with insects, even in rich, deep soils. Copious waterings in the 
 evenings, during the dry seasons, would produce that fulness 
 and succulency which we find in the vegetables produced in the 
 
24 FORMATION OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. 
 
 Low Countries, and in the Marsh Gardens at Paris, and in 
 England at the beginning and latter end of tlie season." 
 
 The Marsh Gardens here spoken of, are so called from being 
 in a low district wliicli was formerly a swamp. The soil is 
 naturally a poor sand, but it has become by careful cultiration 
 a very rich mould. From its porous nature, and the frequent 
 recurrence of dry summers, it would produce little without con- 
 stant and abundant watering. The raising of water from 
 numerous wells dispersed through the grounds, and conveying 
 it to the growing plants, is the most laborious part of the 
 whole process of cultivation. By such means, the growth of 
 vegetation is accelerated, and crop succeeds ci'op with astonish- 
 ing rapidity. We notice these Gardens thus particularly, to 
 show how a pot>r situation may be made productive by the 
 regular supply of moisture. We are not disposed to recom- 
 mend any reader to the adoption of such a task upon his own 
 premises ; for, aside from the actual labor required, the vege- 
 tables thus obtained have not the agreeable flavor of those 
 raised by a more natural process. 
 
 And we think, further, that the wholesale mode of apply- 
 ing water practiced by some gardeners, is positively detri 
 mental to the objects of their care. Our own experience haf 
 satisfied us, that it is only v/hea given racxlerately and witli 
 discretion, that water becomes a useful assistant. We are not 
 prepared to recommend its regular application through the 
 growing season, as, of however much benefit it may bo, it is 
 scarcely practicable by the majority of our readers. But we 
 have no hesitation in suggesting, that it be applied at certain 
 periods in the growth of particular plants, which can not be 
 brought to perfection without an abundant supply of moisture^ 
 applied either naturally or artificially, viz. when in the seed- 
 bed, when removed to the open compartment, in time of 
 drought, and when perfecting their seed-vessels. There can be 
 no doubt of the real advantage to bo derived from such a mo- 
 derate course. 
 
GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 2? 
 
 When the garden is small, it can be supplied, hj two or 
 three hours' labor in the evening, witli water brought from the 
 kitchen cistern— especially if it be not far distant. This can be 
 done in tlie watering pot, or in the large garden engine, or in a 
 common barrel. (See article on " The Tool House and its cox- 
 TKNTS.'*) But where the grounds are extensive, the gardener 
 will look for a supply within the limits. " They are happy," 
 says Dr. Deane, who can resort to a pond or rivulet. "When 
 these are wanting, recourse must be had to a cistern receiving 
 the rain water which falls upon the dwelling-house and out- 
 buildings. Indeed, rain water is preferable, because contain- 
 mg those ga^es which are of most benefit to the plants ; the 
 application of pond or spring water, on the contrary, is some- 
 times attended with injury. 
 
 If the buildings be upon elevated ground, the cistern may 
 be located there, from which the water will descend by its own 
 weight, tlirough a pipe, to the garden below. In this case.hose 
 caq^ be attached to the hydrant, and the grounds sprinkled 
 without the labor of raising the water by a pump, and then 
 carrying it to the spot where it is requhed. Or, if this be not 
 practicable, the cistern must be located in the garden itself, as 
 near the centre as possible, and the water conducted thereto by 
 a pipe, and raided by means of a pump <w windlass. Any 
 such work as this will, of course, be intrissted to a skilful ma- 
 son. In the description of our own garden, we remarked that 
 a cistern miglit be put under the tool Irouse, as that is a cen- 
 tral position, and convenient of access fn>m every part of the 
 grounds. The reader, before he makes any such anangements 
 for a supply of water, will ask himself whether the extra labor 
 of bringing it for a short distance, in the engine or barrel, will 
 justify the cost of a second cistern with its necessary appen- 
 dages. Economy should in eveiy case be regarded, for "a 
 penny saved is a penny earned." 
 
GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 THE FORCING-PIT. 
 
 Fiff. 1. 
 
 This is used in bringing vegetables forward at unnatural 
 seasons of the year, and is by most persons considered an es- 
 sential part of every g<jpd-sized garden. We, however, do 
 not think so highly of its merits. About all of its advantages 
 are common to the hot-bed, which is vastly more convenient, 
 and less expensive. But, that all classes of readers may be 
 satisfied, we here appeiid a short description of its appearance. 
 
 It is a rectangular frame er bin, partly sunk in the ground, 
 and covered with sash-lights. It may be built of heavy plank, 
 brick or stone ; the first named is objectionable, because it 
 will have to be renewed every few years. The rear, or nortli 
 wall, is about four feet high, and the front one is some ten or 
 twelve inches lower. The width is six or eiglit feet, accord- 
 ing to the size of the sashes used, while the length will be 
 regulated by the wants of the owner. Light rafters to support 
 the sashes, are tin-own across at proper distances. It lias 
 been suggested by Mr. Buist, that these rafters be movable^ 
 so that the glass can be raised as soon as it shall be touched 
 by the plants within. This is effected by taking out the raf- 
 ters and placing them in a wooden framework — say twelve 
 iaches high — which is then set upon the pit walls. The pit, 
 
FORMATION OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. 27 
 
 •when covered with mats, forms an excellent winter apartment 
 for house plants. 
 
 We quite agree with Dr. Lindley, the celebrated horti- 
 culturist, in thinking that liowever desirable it may be to have 
 fresh vegetables throughout the year, those which are forced 
 will be found less palatable and less nutritious than those 
 grown in the natural way. Their excellence is sacrificed to 
 the merits of rarity and extraordinary size. It is with them 
 as with flowers, which always lose their beauty and fra- 
 grance when subjected to great artificial heat. 
 
 THE TOOL HOUSE AND ITS CONTENTS. 
 
 A gardener ought no more to be without the proper im- 
 plements of his art, than a tailor should be without his press- 
 board, a mason without his trowel, or a professional man with- 
 out his library. There are a few tools which are indispensa- 
 ble ; these are the spade, the hoe, and the rake. The others 
 mentioned in the following list, though they may not be con- 
 sidered absolutely necessary, will be found valuable assistants. 
 Money spent in the purchase of those wliich will economize 
 time, or will render labor less severe and irksome, is by no 
 means thrown away. He who has charge of a large garden, 
 will require many which another person can very well get 
 along without. In making the selection of the most useful, 
 much discrimination must be exercised ; as many articles are 
 yearly brought forward, and highlj^ praised by persons in- 
 terested in their manufacture, which have Uttle to recommend 
 them besides novelty of construction. 
 
 In buying tools, the gardener should bear in mind, that the 
 lowest-priced is not always the most desirable. It may 
 be of very inferior chai'acter, — the materials being of poor 
 quality, or put together upon wrong principles. In either of 
 these cases, it will be found less serviceable than another 
 which would have cost perhaps only a trifle more. The wood- 
 
2g GAUDEXER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 work should be straight-grained, and well seasoned : the 
 metal properly tempered, and free from flaws. Neither 
 ought to be lieavier than is essential to durability. The ex- 
 tra weight of an ounce in a hoe or a spade, causes the laborer 
 to exert many pounds of strength unnecessarily during aa 
 hour's work. 
 
 Good care should always be taken of tools, because they 
 then last longer than they would if exposed to tlie weather, 
 besides standing in less danger of being lost or stolen. When 
 not in use, they ought to be stored in a shed, or some old 
 building, where they will be guarded from the influences of 
 sun and storm. And then too, it will be known where they 
 can always be found. It is a bad plan to spend an hour in 
 bunting after a spade every time it is wanted. The decay 
 of the wood will be prevented by an occasional coat of paint. 
 
 In a garden of moderate size, the tools may be kept in 
 any convenient place about the premises, where they will be 
 secure. But in a large piece of ground, it is desirable to have 
 everything near at hand. Any old shed will answer, but a 
 very tasteful building can be specially erected ^for the pur- 
 pose, at a small expense. 
 
 In the diagram of our oa^ti grounds, it will bo seen that 
 the tool house is located in the centre, where it is convenient 
 to the persons employed in either quarter. To the eye it is 
 nothing more than a rustic summer-house, overgr(.)wn witli 
 vines ; but we have little |iooks and shelves beneath the seats, 
 on which the smaller tools are placed when not in actual 
 use. The large articles, such as the wheel-barrow, engine, 
 sash-lights, hot-bed frames, &c., whicli occupy considerable 
 space, are put in a,nother building. 
 
 , A set of rules for tlie guidance of the workmen, is hung in 
 a conspicuous position. The first one is that old standard 
 maxim — " Have a place for everything, and everi/tkinr/ in its 
 place" The second is scarcely less important — " No tool shali 
 be put away when dirty, or out of repair." 
 
FORMATION OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. 
 
 29 
 
 Fig.1 
 
 The Haxd-Glass is made either 
 of hard wood, or cast iron. It is 
 a glass case, with a pyramidal- 
 shaped cover ; and is used for 
 forwarding early plants, or shel- 
 tering such as are taken from the 
 ^ hot-bed and set out in an open 
 compartment. "\r\''hen air is to be 
 given to the plants, tiie cover is placed in the manner repre- 
 sented in Fig. 2. 
 
 The HoT-BKD Frame should always be of good sound plank, 
 with close joints to prevent tlie admis.-^ion of air and water. It 
 may be made of any required lengtli, but in width should con- 
 form to the length of the sash lights. The front side is usually 
 nine or twelve iiiclies high, and the back side fiom six to ten 
 indies higlier, so that the glass may be inclined towards the 
 soutli, as well for the benefit of the sun, as for allowing the 
 water to run off. Cross-pieces will be requii^ed at suitable 
 distances fi)r the support oi tlie sashes ; they may be about one 
 incli tliickand three inches wide, and dove- 
 tailed into the planks. Where tlie hot-bed 
 is made witli an inclined surface, (see the 
 article on " Foacixo Vegetation,'') the 
 sides of the frame should be of equal 
 height. It is a very good plan to liave the 
 planks fastened tdgetlier by hooks and 
 staples, so that when not in use, thl^ can 
 be talvtn apart and piled up for protection 
 from the Aveather. 
 
 Sash-lights should be made of well- 
 seasoned wood, about one and a half 
 inches thick, and small, cheap glass. They 
 may be of any length desiied, but a width 
 of three feet and a half is most convenient. 
 The wood must have two coats of oil paint 
 
 
 
 Fig. 
 
 8. 
 
 
 
 \ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
30 
 
 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 before glazing, and one afterwards. This care will preserve 
 it many years. Tliis precaution is very important. 
 
 Fig. A. 
 
 Tlie Yine-Shield (Fig. 4) we Imve found of great use in 
 protecting young plants from the cold, and the attacks of ver- 
 min. It costs little, and will last many seasons. It is merely 
 a small frame, made of thin boards, with a pane of glass in 
 the top. The sides should be bevelled so that one screen can 
 be set inside another without touching the glass, and V>y this 
 means they will occupy less room when stored away. The 
 size we find most convenient, is four inches high, and large 
 enough on the top to accommodate eight by ten inch glass. 
 
 Fig. 5. 
 
 Tlie "Wheelbarrow may be considered as veiy essential. 
 In fact, no piece of ground, meriting the name of garden, can 
 be cultivated without its assistance. It should be made of the 
 best materials, and then it may be light and easily moved from 
 place to place. ISTor should an occasional coat of paint be ne- 
 glected, if its preservation be deemed important 
 
FORMATION OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. 
 Fici. 6. 
 
 Shovels and Spades are too 
 well known to require descrip- 
 tion. We can only advise tlie garr 
 dener to purchase tlie best articles, 
 although costing more than those 
 of an inferior quality. 
 
 Forks are by many persons 
 preferred J;o the spade, because m 
 digging •mth them, the labor is di- 
 minislied, and tlie pulverization of 
 the soil better effected. They are 
 also necessary for the manure heap, 
 as well as for breaking up the sur- 
 face of beds in spring. 
 
 Hoes are of various shapes and 
 sizes. !Fig. 8 includes several dif- 
 ferent kinds. The two marked d 
 and / are the Dutch, Thrust or 
 
32 
 
 GARDENEJl'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 Scuffle hoes, useful for cleaning walks, cutting weeds, and stir- 
 ring the soil. That marked c is called the Forhed-bacTc, 
 which is a very efficient implement for loosening the soil 
 without danger of injuring the plants. The hoe has been 
 termed the gardener's best friend. It is often unnecessarily 
 heavy, and the purchaser should be careful to pick out one 
 which is both light and strong. 
 
 Fig. 8. 
 
 The Hand-Cultivator (Fig. 9) is made of iron, and expands 
 from ten to eigliteen inches. By being drawn between the rows 
 of vegetables it performs the work of several men with hoes, 
 in stirring the soil, and cutting up weeds. It will be found 
 of great advantaire in a larire srarden. 
 
FORMATION OF A KrTCIIEX GARDEN 
 Fig. 9. 
 
 33 
 
 The Rake ought to be of the best 
 ■\vrought iron. There are many different 
 kinds, yarjing in the length and number of 
 theii- teeth. For general use, peihaps one 
 having teetli about two -and a half inches 
 ong and one and a half inches apart 
 will be most suitable. The handle 
 should be as light as consistent with strength, and made of 
 sound, straight-grained wood. 
 
 The Reel and Line are used for lay- 
 ing out beds and walks. Tlie reel ought 
 to be made of irtai or strong wood, and 
 the line should be of medium size. 
 "When not in use, they are to be kept 
 under cover, j^ exposure to the weather 
 would soon rot the line. 
 
 The Seed Sov.er, is very serviceable 
 in a large garden. It is quite light, 
 durable, and not likely to get out of 
 order. As it is pushed forward by the 
 operator, the ground is opened, while 
 the seed is dropped, covered and rolled 
 all at the same time. It is easily 
 adapted to seeds of different sizes, and drops them in hills or 
 drills, and thinly or plentifully, just as may be desired. 
 
34 
 
 GAE-DENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 
FORMATION OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. 
 Fig. 13. 
 
 35 
 
 Drill-Rakes are for marking drills in seed beds. The 
 gardener may have several sizes, with the teeth set at vari- 
 ous distances apart, as six, eight, ten, twelve, and fourteen 
 inches. The whole may be made of wood, or with Fig. 14, 
 a wooden head and steel teeth. By this effective 
 implement four or five drills can be drawn at the 
 same time, thus greatly facilitating labor at the 
 most important season of the year, and securing the 
 neat appearance of the bed. 
 
 The Dibble is used for making holes in which to 
 set out roots or plants. It is generally made of an 
 old spade handle, having the lower part sharpened, 
 and sometimes shod with iron. Tlie depth of its 
 insertion in the ground may be regulated by a small 
 peg, which can be placed at various heights. 
 
 Pruxing-Shears are of several patterns. They are found 
 useful in trimming currant bushes, raspberries, gooseberries, 
 and especially grape vines. 
 
 Fig. 15. 
 
 Gakdek-Shears are convenient for trimmmg box and 
 hedges, and grass borders. They are found of various sizes. 
 Each one may consult his own taste for that ; but it is impor* 
 
 r 
 
36 
 
 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 tant that tliey should be of the best metal, as they are 
 liable to lose their edge from cutting hard substances. They 
 sliould be kept dry to prevent rust. 
 
 Fig. 16. 
 
 The Trowel is a very valuable tool for transplanting caV 
 bages, (fee. ; as the plants can be taken up with balls of earth 
 attached, and set out in another part of the garden with but 
 little danger of injuring the roots. 
 
 Fig. 17. 
 
 The Watkrixg Pot will be found necessary, where water- 
 ing the plants is practiced. It is made of different sizes. 
 When not in use, hang it so that the water can run out of the 
 rose. If well taken care of, and occasionally painted, it will 
 last a long time. 
 
 Fig. 18. 
 
FORMATION OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. 
 
 37 
 
 Tlie Water-Caerter is a tight barrel or cask, attached to 
 a pair of old wheels, and used for carrying water about the 
 grounds. When large quantities of water are wanted, this is 
 far less tiresome work than to carry it in buckets. Besides it 
 makes a great saving of time. No one who has ever made use 
 of one would willingly be deprived of it. The cost of it 
 would be saved in one season. 
 
 Fig. 19. 
 
 The Garden-Exgine; is adapted to the wants of a very 
 large garden. The one represented in Fig. 21, will hold about 
 forty gallons, and can be easily wheeled around and worked 
 by one person. It will throw water to the height of forty 
 feet, and to the distance of t^eventy feet horizontally. It may^ 
 therefore, be found of use in extinguishing fii-e in buildings. 
 
 Fiq. 20. 
 
GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 
 
 THE EMPLOYMENT OF TIME. 
 
 The object of the gardener is to bring, his vegetables forward 
 to perfection, in the shortest period of time, and at the smallest 
 expense. His success depends mainly upon the Qbservauce of 
 certain principles, whieli are few in nmiiber, and easy of com- 
 prehension, viz. : depth and fertility of soil ; a proper rotation 
 of crops ; selecting the best varieties of seeds ; sowing at the 
 most suitable seasons ; a strict attention to the wants of the 
 growing plant ; the destruction of weeds and insects ; keeping 
 the soil open to the beneficial influences of the atmosphere ; the 
 application of water in time of drought ; and care in raising 
 seeds for future use. Under such management, unless tliere 
 be some unusual natural occurrences to prevent, he may be 
 sure of an ample return for his industry. In tliis chapter we 
 propose to iEustrate tliese principles moi->e in detail ; but, by 
 wa}"" of preface, shall offer a few practical suggestions upon 
 the employment of time, wliieh, perhaps, may not be uuwortliy 
 of the reader's attention. 
 
 An old proverb declares that "time is money." And, in- 
 deed, he who makes an improper use of it, is as Uttle deserving 
 of pity as the prodigal who wastes all his substance in riotous 
 living. Of all men who earn a subsistence by the sweat of 
 the brow, the gardener can least afford to be idle. Tiie sea- 
 sons of the year roll round in their course, and make no pause 
 for. the footsteps of the sluggard. In the garden there is 
 always something to be done ; each month has its appropriate 
 duties; and the workman must not suffer himself to fall 
 behind hand, with the idea that he can at any hour catch up 
 with hiawork. Not bo ; for of all things lost, time is about the 
 
GENERAL MANAGE:MENT. 39 
 
 most difficult to regain, if what I'oor Richard says be true, — 
 " Lost time is never found again. He that riseth late must 
 ti'ot all day, and shall scarce overtake his business at night." 
 
 Procrastination may cause serious injury; — the proper 
 season for committing the seed to the ground may pass by ; 
 or the labors of months may be destroyed in a single day. 
 The gardener should not suffer his work to get in arrear. If he 
 be so unfortunate, his troubles increase at every turn ; he finds 
 liimself unprepared for the duties of the present moment, 
 because lost time must first be redeemed. And, ten chances 
 to one, after striving hard to regain his former position, and 
 after battling manfully against the encroachments of weeds 
 and insects, he becomes discouraged, throws aside the hoe, and 
 permits the crops to come to maturity as they will. 
 
 But, good reader, our advice is not only " to keep up with 
 your work," as it is familiarly termed, but also to keep in ad- 
 vance of it, whenever that be practicable. "Defer not until 
 evening what the morning may accomplish." Tlie numerous 
 advantages of such a course are so evident, that they here 
 need no exposition. In the winter, you should prepare your- 
 self for the approach of spring, so that you may welcome it 
 with a cheerful spirit. There are numerous things which may 
 be done at that season of the year, when the earth is locked 
 up in the chill embraces of frost, that will facilitate labor at 
 other times; such as bringing manure from the stable, and 
 piling it up in a convenient place, getting the different imple- 
 ments in order, hunting up bean poles and pea brush, etc., (fee. 
 As soon as tl)e ground opens, and the weatlier becomes suffi- 
 ciently mild, you will be in readiness to make the first sowing. 
 Tliere will be no hurry and confusion. If you be in advance 
 of the regular time, you will gain much if the season prove 
 auspicious ; but, if obliged, by unfavorable circumstances, to 
 repeat the labor, you can still secure a crop. Thus, an emi- 
 nent author has said, "The management of a garden consists 
 in attention and application; the first should be of that wary 
 
40 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 and provident kind, as not only to do well in the present, but 
 for the future ; and the application should be of so diligent a 
 nature, as ' never to defer that till to-morrow v/hich may be 
 done to-day.' " 
 
 What is the proper time for work ? The most important 
 duties of the year are crowded into a few weeks of spring, yet 
 there is much to be done at every other season. Industry at 
 that particular period is generally considered most unneces- 
 sary, because if the ground be once planted and afterwards 
 neglected, there is always a possibility of the vegetables being 
 able to live through the various attacks of their enemies. But, 
 shoxild the owner of the garden be then idle, he has afterwards 
 no chance to retrieve his error. " The sluggard will not plough 
 by reason of the cold ; therefore, shall he beg in harvest and 
 Lave nothing." 
 
 From these remarks, however, we must not be considered 
 as discouraging labor at other seasons, or recommending the 
 mere preparation of the ground, and then leaving the result to 
 nature. Not by any means. The person who thus wastes 
 time and money, deseiwes not the honorable title of a garden- 
 er. During the summer and autumn, and even during a 
 part of winter, there is always something to be done. The 
 truly industrious man will not find himself at a loss for work. 
 The ground is to be stirred, weeds to be cut down, vermin to 
 be destroyed, walks to be cleaned, manure to be prepared, — 
 and so on from one year's end to another. If the duties of each 
 season and each month be not punctually met in their turn 
 there can be little ground of hope for a generous reward. The 
 gardener must not suffer himself to be idle, so long as a single 
 green thing is to be seen upon his premises. Many an esti- 
 mate of liis character will be drawn from nothing else than the 
 neat, or slovenly appearance of his beds. Self-respect, even if 
 there be no other consideration, should prompt liim to the for- 
 mation of industrious habits, and to the exercise of persever- 
 ance under every discouragement. 
 
GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 41 
 
 He should also learn to economize time. The farmei*, or a 
 person wlio is engaged in other business, has only a few spare 
 minutes each day to devote to the culture of his garden. 
 Even this short allowance may be made productive of the best 
 results. We know several merchants, who, by rising early and 
 devoting an hour or two to their vegetables before breakfast, 
 not only preserve their bodily health, but have the satisfaction 
 of supplying their own tables with the most nutritious food 
 throughout the year. One hour in the cool of the morning, is 
 worth three or four in tlie heat and dust of mid-day. Beware 
 of the " yet a little sleep, a little slumber, a little folding of 
 the hands to sleep," when your plants are majcing loud calls 
 upon your attention. 
 
 It is only by such judicious management, that one having 
 the care of a garden, can hope to derive profit or pleasure 
 from its cultivation. He who makes no effort at success, 
 surely deserves not the reward. He Uttle merits the prize, 
 who is willing to see it snatched from his hand without a 
 struggle to detain it. Natui-e is lavish of her bounties, but she 
 gives them to none but those who base their claims upon un- 
 tiring industry aod perseverance. 
 
 A PROaRAM-ME OF LABOR. 
 
 Before he ventures to leave port, the m.ariner decides upon 
 the course he is to pursue across the trackless ocean ; not 
 waiting for circumstances to determine wliither he shall direct 
 his vessaL The architect, who is engaged in building a house, 
 before lie suffers the first stone to be laid, draws up his plans, 
 and makes an estimate of its cost. The several advantages of 
 doing this are sufficiently obvious Now, it seems to us, that 
 it is scarcely less important for the farmer and gardener to lay 
 down plans of their work, than fur the sailor to mark out hia 
 voyage upon the chart, or for the builder to design the eleva- 
 tion of his house. It is with each an object to economize tim« 
 4* 
 
42 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 and prevent disappointment. He is always a shiftless fellow, 
 who works without any settled plan, and shapes his course by 
 contingencies as they arise. We never like to see a farmer 
 delayed in the spring, merely because he don't know where 
 first to insert the ploughshare ; it is perfectly clear that he has 
 no system nor niethod, and that he is liable to many defeats in 
 consequence. The success of tlie gardener who is tlius situ- 
 ated, is even yet moi-e precarious. 
 
 What we would earnestly recommend, is for the reader, at 
 the commencement of each year, to di"aw up a programme of 
 its operations. By this means, he need never be at a loss what 
 to do next ; when the season of spring iairly opens, he is not 
 obliged to waste time, so precious at this juncture, in deciding 
 how the ground shall be laid out, or where particular plants 
 are to be cultivated. This programme should be a neat dia- 
 gram of the garden, with its borders and principaf compart- 
 ments apportioned out among the different vegetables. Of 
 course, many alterations will be made in this plan, from time 
 to time, as unforeseen circumstances may render advisable ; and 
 to avoid defacing the paper, it might be best to use a lead 
 pencil for inserting the names, so that they can easily be 
 rubbed out by india-rubber. When no further corrections are 
 to be made, the names can be written in mk. This is a very 
 pretty employment for long winter evenings, when the garden- 
 er has plenty of time at command. The trouble and expense 
 are nothing, compared with the actual benefit to be derived 
 from the use of such a programme. It lightens and expedites 
 labor, besides saving much trouble and perplexity, at the busy 
 seasons. 
 
 DEPTH AND MELLOWNESS OF THE SOIL. 
 
 Depth and mellowness of soil may be considered the princi- 
 pal characteristics of successful gardening. In our school-boy 
 days, we have all read of the dying husbandman, who told his 
 
GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 43 
 
 son never to part with the vineyard, as there was a valuable 
 treasure lying within a few inches of the surface. The young 
 man, in the expectation of finding a bag of money, carefully 
 turned over the soil, but found nothing. In tlie subsequent 
 harvest, however, he was astonished at the extraordinary 
 luxuriance of his crops, and then understood for the fir^t time 
 the enigmatical meaning of his father's words. 
 
 The most obvious advantage of having a deep, mellow 
 soil, is that the roots of plants are thereby enabled to extend 
 themselves further, and w4th greater facility, in search of 
 nutriment. The delicate fibrils of the onion have been traced 
 to the depth of two feet, and those of the Swedish turnip to 
 the depth of five feet, below the surface. And long after they 
 become invisible to the naked eye, they may be detected, by the 
 aid of a microscope, pushing down deeper and deeper their 
 thread-. ike extremities. Downing remarks, " I have seen the 
 roots of strawberries extend five feet down in a rich, deep soil; 
 and those plants bore a crop of fruit five times as large, and 
 twice as handsome and good, as the common product of a 
 soil only one foot deep." Every one who knows for what pur- 
 poses roots are designed, viz. : to gather food from the soil, as 
 well as to support tlie stem in an upright position, will per- 
 ceive that as their foraging ground may be extended, so the 
 health and vigor of the plants to which they belong will be 
 increased. 
 
 A deep loam derives much benefit from the atmosphere, 
 in the development of its natural powers of productiveness. 
 It has also been a-certained, that the air we breathe is charged 
 with a large per centage of the elements of vegetable growth, 
 which it readily yields to a light, porous soil. Such a soil 
 permits the immediate escape of water after heavy rains, and 
 yet, by its capillary attraction furnishes a supply of moistm'e 
 during a protracted drought. By its friability, it is more 
 capable of absorbing heat during sunshine, and, therefore, more 
 sensible of the early approaches of spring ; and yet, it radiates 
 
44 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 heat so rapidly, tliat tlie depossit of dew in the summer nights 
 is greatly facilitated. These latter two properties are very 
 important, because the warmth of the sun is necessary for 
 tlie roots, and because the free deposit of dew protects them 
 from the fatal consequences of continued dry weather. 
 
 In fact, the only soil suitable for gardening purposes, is 
 one which is both deep and mellow — one which allows the 
 roots to penetrate far below the surface, and is at tlie same 
 time open to the meliorating influences of the atmosphere. A 
 lich loam of but a few inches in depth, resting upon a cold, 
 compact substratum, is hardly worth the trouble of cultivation. 
 When the substratum is broken up, and made fertile by a 
 regular process of tillage, then — and not until then — will its 
 full powers be developed. Hence it appears, that the garden- 
 er's first care, after he has got his ground properly laid out 
 is to pulverize it thoroughly for the reception of the seed. 
 
 If you liave not much experience in these matters, you will 
 inquire, good reader, how this is to be accomplished ? In the 
 outset, it may be as well to call in the assistance of a subsoil 
 plough, which pulverizes the substratum -without bringing it to 
 the surface. This will answer a very good purpose, especially 
 if you be in a hurry to get the ground in readiness for plant- 
 ing ; but, at all times afterward, avoid the use of a plough. 
 The paths will be broken up, the small shrubs injured, and 
 early plants destroyed, by tlie awkward movements of the 
 team; and, in addition to all that, the work will be done 
 neither neatly nor thoroughly. You must, therefore, resort to 
 the spade, which is the honorable badge of your profession. 
 Some persons prefer the fork, because in consequence of its 
 being nuich lighter, it diminishes the labor, while it effects a 
 more thorough pulverization of the soil. In this book, we 
 shall always use the word spade, and let the reader take 
 either implement, according to his own fiincy. 
 
 Many works on tliis subject recommend " trenching," as it 
 is called, by which the surface soil changes places with the 
 
GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 45 
 
 barren subsoil. It is truly saiJ, that in course of time, the 
 whole will become of equal depth and fertility. But a very 
 important fact is overlooked, viz.: that until this be accom- 
 phshed, the labor and expense of cultivation are much in- 
 creased, and tliat the plants obtain only a scanty subsistence in 
 their early stages, before the roots have penetrated to the rich 
 soil. 
 
 We consider the following a much better plan. It is some- 
 times termed the " bastard system " of trenching, and is thus 
 performed : — you commence at one corner of the bed, and 
 open by the side of the path a trench two feet wide, and one 
 spade deep, throwing the dirt into the path. Dig the bottom 
 of the trench as thoroughly as possible, and mix with it the 
 dung wliich is to be applied at this time. Run the spade 
 down deep, and pulverize all the large clods. Then open a 
 second trench of the same width and depth, throwing the dirt 
 into the first one. Dig over the bottom in the manner above 
 directed, and cover it Avith the top spit of the third trench; 
 and so proceed until you reach the other side of the bed, 
 where you find yourself with an open trench, which must bo 
 filled by the earth lying in the path. 
 
 By this method, the whole piece of ground is spaded about 
 two feet deep, and manure is intimately mixed with the lower 
 spit. The good surface soil is retained in its old position, 
 while the improvement of the substratum is left to the grad- 
 ual mixture of the two, as well as to the influence of manures 
 and the atmosphere. This thorough digging should be re- 
 peated every four or five years. To avoid the inconvenience 
 of being obliged to do the whole at one time, it will be well 
 to take one quarter every year, by which means the whole 
 garden will be gone over in the required period. After this 
 course has been pursued several times, and the whole soil has 
 become moderately fertile, it may be well to try the trench- 
 ing system; but, never at the formation of a garden. In 
 trenching, you dig the fii-st trench two spades deep, and 
 
46 GARDENER'S TEXT -BOOK. 
 
 nil in from the adjoining one — the top spit being placed at the 
 bottom, and thus completely reversing the position of the sur- 
 face and sub-soils. 
 
 In addition to this quadrennial overturning, every bed 
 will require an annual spading previous to the reception of 
 the seed. It is performed somewhat in the way above de- 
 scribed. Open a trench of the depth and width of the sjDade, 
 and fill it by opening a second one, and so on to the other edge 
 of the bed. Endeavor to raise about the same quantity of 
 earth at each insertion of the spade, and deposite it in the 
 trench with the bottom side uppermost. As you proceed, 
 break up all the lumps, and keep the surface level, by a pecu- 
 liar stroke which is soon acquired by practice. The work will 
 be much facilitated by digging in a perfectly straiglit line, and 
 to a uniform depth. If manure is to be applied, when old 
 and well rotted, it may be spread upon the bed, and spaded 
 under ; but if long and troublesome, it should be placed in the 
 bottom of the trench. 
 
 Tiie two kinds of trenching may be performed late in au- 
 tumn, or in winter before severe cold weatlier sets in. At 
 that time, the gardener will not be hurried, and there will also 
 be the advantage of exposing grubs and larvae to the frost. 
 The annual spading, or pulverization of the surface soil, had 
 best be done in spring ; or it can be done roughly in autumn, 
 and dressed over with the rake just previous to sowing. Dry 
 weatlier should always be selected for this work, when the 
 earth crumbles easily ; because, if wet or heavy, on being 
 stirred thus by the sjiade, it becomes a kind of mortar, and the 
 operation, instead of being advantageous, is in reality product- 
 ive of much injury. 
 
 MANURES. 
 
 Giving manure to the soil, so as to furnish it with the con- 
 stituents uf vegetable growth, is quite as important as its 
 thorough ^pulverization. Jethfo TuU, the celebrated English 
 
GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 47 
 
 agriculturist, more than a century ago maintained that the 
 latter only is necessary to ensure abundant crops. This doc- 
 trine, however, has long since been proved fallacious. The 
 application of manifre is essential to fertility, and unless the 
 soil be fertile, the gardener cannot derive much profit fi"om its 
 cultivation. Where the raising of vegetables is conducted 
 upon a large scale, as in market gardens, the land is not al- 
 lowed to remain idle, but there is a regular succession of crops, 
 one taking the place of another as soon as removed ; and yet, 
 by the process of manuring, the land is all the time becoming 
 better. Manure is all important;— with it, the gardener can 
 do everything ; without it, nothing. By its power, the most 
 sterile spot can be made fertile, and the wilderness made to 
 blossom as the rose. But, the idea of producing vegetables 
 without manure, is about equal to that of the farmer who ex- 
 pects an ill-fed cow to give milk. Both the animal and the 
 soil must be liberally supplied with food of good quality, be- 
 fore they can be expected to yield a return. 
 
 A garden of common size can, by propjr management, be 
 kept in good tilth at a sniall annual expense. Where connected 
 with a farm, the principal supply of manure will be drawn 
 from the barn-yard, or the stable. Everything which will act 
 as a fertilizer should be carefully husbanded ; as cents will by 
 accumulation become dollars. Tne refuse matter of the 
 grounds, such as decayed stalks, leaves, weeds, tfec, should be 
 turned to good account. About the bast purpose to which a 
 weed can be put, is to place it in the compost heap or pig 
 pen. Forest leaves, after being thoroughly worked over by 
 swine, are excellent food for vegetables. Let nothing be 
 wasted upon your premises ; for your manure heap may be 
 likened to a cash capital, which, when invested, returns to you 
 with interest. 
 
 If you have a large supply of manure, it will be best to 
 mix it with the soil whenever it may be spaded or trenched. 
 A portion should be incorporated with the substratum, every 
 
48 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 time it is dug over, so as to liasten its gradual improvement. 
 Another portion, however, should be kept near the surface, 
 that the young roots may not have far to travel in search of 
 nutriment. Should your supply be small, or not large enough 
 to admit of this broadcast application, you must put it in the 
 bills, or drills, for the larger vegetables. But, in every case, it 
 ouglit to be thorougldij incorporated with the soil. The au- 
 tumn, or winter, is the best time for doing this, as there will 
 be less danger of the plants being injured by its heat, than if 
 it were applied late in the spring. We fear that the parched 
 appearance of the ground in some gardens, at midsummer, is 
 from ignorance of this fact. In the remaining part of tliis ar- 
 ticle, we shall enumerate the several kinds of manure most 
 valuable for horticultural purposes. 
 
 Horse DUNG is placed at the head of the list, because most 
 generally used. There can be no doubt of its superior fer- 
 tihzing effects. In an experiment with beans, m which six 
 acres were manured with horse-dung, and nine with cow- 
 dung, the SIX acres yielded more abundantly than the nine. 
 Its value is dependent upon the food given to the animals, 
 and tlie proportion of dung to straw, which absorbs the fluids, 
 but reduces the value of any given weight of the manure. It 
 ferments quickly, and to prevent the loss of tlie volatile mat- 
 ters, should be composted soon after being taken from the 
 stalls. 
 
 Cow-DONG is chiefly dependent for its value upon the con- 
 dition of the animals, as well as the care which may be taken 
 in its preservation. That from half-starved beasts, and which 
 is suffered to remain for months exposed to sun and rain, is by 
 no mean^. the best for the gardener's use. It is colder than 
 the dung of the horse, and, fermenting more slowly, retains ita 
 virtue longer. Its effects are, therefore, of greater duration. 
 
 PiG-DuxG is very good when used alone, although its strong 
 odor sometimes imparts a rank taste to the vegetables. It 
 also forms an excellent compost with the excrements of horsea 
 
GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 49 
 
 and homed cattle. They should be tlirowii into a heap, in al- 
 ternate layers, and receive the urine and slops from the house. 
 A hog kept on the premises can be made to earn his living, 
 by converting grass-sods, leaves and refuse vegetables into 
 manure. 
 
 PouDRETTB is Very exciting, and is peculiarly adapted for 
 the advancement of early crops. Much of that purchased by 
 farmers and gardeners is of an inferior quality. Care should 
 always be exercised in securing the best, as it costs no more 
 than the other. 
 
 BiRDs'-DUNG has long been known as an active and power- 
 ful fertilizer. It is excellent for melons and plants of the same 
 family. That produced by the poultry on the premises can be 
 gathered with very little trouble. The real guano is exceed- 
 ingly powerful, and must be applied with cantion. We strongly 
 suspect a great part of that in market to be nothing more 
 than common dirt, perfumed with brine or something of the 
 sort; — at least, its effects upon vegetation are about the same. 
 
 GttEEN' VEGETABLE MATTEa may be considered of great 
 value. Much that is carelessly wasted on farms, or even in 
 gardens, would be beneficial to the succeeding crop. Every 
 large weed, useless vegetable, and decayed stalk, should be 
 carried to the compost heap, or pig pen, or else dug immediately 
 into the ground. In the latter case, it ought not to be buried 
 30 deep as to prevent fermentation by the want of air. 
 
 C«AacoAL. It is within a few years, that a knowledge of 
 the value of charcoal for manure has become general. And it 
 seems to bj specially adipted to garden use. Being porous, 
 it has the power of absorbing various gases from the atmos- 
 phere, and, when subsequently placed in the soil, it readily 
 yields them to the plants. It is excellent for mixing witli 
 night soil, as it retains the offeur^ive — -but valuable — ammonia, 
 which would otherwise escape in the air. Besides this ab- 
 sorbent action, charcoal will loosen tough soils, and by its 
 black color increase their warmth. It is applied in the shape 
 5 
 
50 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 « 
 of small lumps, or dust, and at tlie rate of one bushel to four 
 square rods. 
 
 Ashes are among tlie most economical manures. Contain- 
 ing every element of vegetable growth, their return to the soil 
 IS very advantageous. They attract moisture from the at- 
 mosphere, and are somewhat useful as a protection against 
 the ravages of insects. From the free use of wood as fuel, 
 every gardener will probably have a supply of ashes in his 
 own dwelling ; if not, he can purchase them at a moderate 
 price from his neighbors. 
 
 Salt, applied in small quantities, is strongly recommended 
 by modern writers,— especially for such plants as sea kale 
 and asparagus. In addition to its influence as a manure, it is 
 also useful in destroying slugs, worms and larvre, which are 
 liidden in the ground. Its effects are so powerful, that it must 
 be applied with caution ;-~perhaps, for general purposes, at 
 the rate of half a pound to the square yard ; it is, however, 
 frequently used in much larger proportions Wlien tlie weather 
 is dry, the salt should be forked into the soil immediately after 
 being spread. 
 
 Sea-weed can be easily obtained by gardeners who live in 
 the vicinity of the sea coast. It is found very suitable for 
 marine plants such as the artichoke, asparagus and sea-kale. 
 Its effects are transient. It is applied either fresh as a top- 
 dressing, or after being composted with dung and earth. 
 
 ROTATION OF CROPS. 
 
 Although instances are frequently cited, of certain plants 
 being raised on particular spots of ground for year after year, 
 without any apparent diminution in the produce ; yet, it is gener- 
 allv allowed, that a rotation of crops is always of advantage, 
 and often of the greatest importance. We consider it as neces- 
 sary as depth and mellowness of soil, and the regular apphca- 
 tion of manures. Gardeners are sometimes heard to complain 
 
GENERAL MAXAGEMEXT. 51 
 
 of vegetables becoming " tired " of the ground wliere they 
 have been long cultivated. They are attacked by numerous 
 diseasea and insects, while a deficiency is to be discovered in 
 the amount of the produce. As soon as tliis is known, some 
 wiseacres will send many miles, in order to procure new varie- 
 ties of seed, because the old ones have " degenerated." 
 
 A more certain method of relief, would be to adopt a good 
 rotation of crops, which is based on the well known fact, that 
 ihe sevei'al families of plants not only strike their roots to 
 different depths and in different directions, but draw different 
 kinds of nourishment from the soil. Wlien one particular ele- 
 ment of a vegetable is removed from the soil, the vegetable 
 cannot be again raised there, until that element be restored- 
 It is, therefore, advisable to alternate the crops, by which 
 means the land will have opportunity to regain its original 
 strength and fertility. This is illustrated by Dame Nature 
 herself. If old pastures were to be attentively observed, it 
 would be found that the grasses gradually change from season 
 to season ; and in wood-land, it would be discovered, that an 
 entirely different kind of tree takes the place of such as have 
 decayed, or have been cut down. Thus the pine imd others of 
 the coniferoe will succeed the oak, the chestnut, and other 
 deciduous trees. 
 
 A rotation is designed to prevent a too frequent recurrence 
 of the same species upon a particular spot. Some authors lay 
 down regular plans for the guidance of their readers ; but as 
 the space annually appropriated to different plants depends 
 upon circumstances, it will be readily seen that all such courses 
 or plans are difficult of application. Instead, therefore, of fol- 
 lowu)g this practice, we shall content ourselves witli some 
 general rule?, which possess the merits of simplicity and brief- 
 ness, so that the reader can adapt them to his own wants. 
 
 In the first place, vegetables of the same species shall not 
 follow each otlier, but return at as distant intervals as tlie case 
 will allow. Tuberous or tap roots should be succeeded by 
 
52 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 those of a fibrous character ; perennials by annuals ; and 
 plants of a dry, solid texture, or those left for seed, by such as 
 are succulent and juicy. Ground which has necessarily been 
 devoted for a number of years to the artichoke, asparagus, 
 rhubarb, strawberry, and the like, should, as soon as they are 
 removed to other parts of the enclosure, be subjected to a 
 strict rotation, and allowed to recover those elements of fer- 
 tility of which it has been exhausted. Wiiere the garden is 
 divided into quarters, the vegetables can easily be made to 
 take a circuit in every four or eight years. 
 
 A little reflection will satisfy the intelligent reader, tliat 
 by observing an alternation of crops, digging his soil to a proper 
 depth, and manuring it abundantly, he need have no fear of its 
 losing its fertility, or .of his choice vegetables degenerating, 
 
 mDICATIONS OF RAIN. 
 
 Changes in the weather affect the gardener much more 
 than the farmer. As will be seen from the following pages, 
 the operations of sowing small seeds and transplanting, are 
 most successful if performed just before gentle sliowers. 
 Persons who are exposed to tliese natural phenomena, such as 
 agriculturists and sailors, in time acquire much practical knowl- 
 edge of the subject. Many rules have been published by 
 which one can discern an approaching change in tlie weather, 
 that we would like to insert in this place, did our limits admit 
 of it. For the sake of awakening the reader's attention, we 
 append the following " Signs of Rain," said to have been sent 
 by Dr. Jenner to a friend, with whom he had planned an ex- 
 cursion : 
 
 " The hollow winds begin to blow, 
 The clouds loolc black, the glass is low ; 
 The soot falls down, the sp.uiiels sleep. 
 And spiders from their cobwebs peep. 
 
GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 53 
 
 Last night the sun went pale to bed, 
 The uiuon in halos hid lier head ; 
 Tlie boding b^hepherd heaves a sigh, 
 For, see, a rainbow spans the sky ; 
 The walls are damp, the ditches smell. 
 Closed is the pink-eyed pimpernel. 
 Hark ! how the chairs and tables crack, 
 Old Betty's joints are on the rack ; 
 Loud quack the ducks, die peacocks cry ; 
 Tlie distant hills are looking nigh. 
 How restless are the snorting swine, 
 The busy flies disturb the kine ; 
 Low o'er tlie grass the swallow wings ; 
 Tlie cricket, U>o, how sharp he sings ; 
 Puss, on tlie hearth, with velvet paws, 
 Sits, wiping o'er her vdiisker'd jaws. 
 Through the clear stream the fishes rise, 
 And nimbly catch th' incautious flies ; 
 The glow-worm-^, numerous and bright, 
 Illum'd the dewy dell last night. 
 At dusk the squalid toad was seen, 
 Hopping and trawling o'er the green ; 
 The whirling wind the dust obeys. 
 And in the rapid eddy plays ; 
 The frog has chang'd his yellow vest. 
 And m a russet coat is drest. 
 Though June, the air is cold and still ; 
 The black-bird's mellow voice is shrill. 
 My dog, so alter'd is his taste, 
 Quits mutton bonus, on grass to feast ; 
 And see, yon rooks, how odd their fligLl» 
 They imitate the gliding kite. 
 And seem precipitate to fall — - 
 As if they felt the piercing ball. 
 'Twill surely rain, I see with sorrow. 
 Our jaunt must be put off to-morrow." 
 
5{ GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 SELECTION OF SEEDS. 
 
 Every one ought to know that there is a great differenA*- 
 in the productiveness and flavor of our common garden prod 
 ucts. In fact, some of the varieties are scarcely worthy o 
 notice. Therefore, when you go to the expense of haying oui 
 a garden, you should endeavor to procure none other than th» 
 choicest kinds of vegetables, and such as will afford a suc- 
 cession of crops. It is a gi"eat object with market men t« 
 raise the earliest and latest varieties, which always commano 
 the best prices. And it is no less important for families, wh« 
 can, by proper management, derive the greater part of thei 
 living from the garden. The labor and cost of cultivation ar^ 
 no greater, while the profit and satisfaction are much in- 
 a'eased. 
 
 In the beginning of your labors, you must of necessity pro- 
 cure the seeds from some enterprising neigiibor, or a regular 
 seedsman. In.. the latter case, go to a well known and respon- 
 sible person, — if possible, one of your acquaintances. It is 
 generally understood, that of the seeds annually exposed for 
 sale, a very large part are worthless, having lost their vitality, 
 or being of inferior varieties. The vexation of preparing land 
 and realizing nothing, is equalled by waiting patiently for 
 several months to obtain nothing but a small, tough, stringy 
 product. It is not a fine sounding name which makes a valu 
 able variety. 
 
 But, with all your care, you may get deceived. Perhaps 
 the seed will not vegetate, or it proves different from what it 
 was represented. Even then you must not hastily impute 
 blame to the seedsman. It cannot be expected that he should 
 raise all that he sells, and he may have been deceived as well 
 as yourself In the absence of proof, or very strong grounds of 
 suspicion, it would certainly be wrong to believe him guilty of 
 fraud. You must not jump at a conclusion. Because the seed 
 did not vegetate, is no evidence that it would not have done so 
 
GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 55 
 
 if placed in favorable circuaistances. That plants do not 
 appear above ground, may have been caused by your own 
 ignorance ; perhaps the seed was buried so low that its tender 
 stem could not reach the surfiice, or else covered so slightly 
 that the germ, as soon as it manifested itself, was killed by the 
 heat. Defect of germination may have been the result of 
 natural causes, such as excessive heat or cold, or the extreme 
 dryness or dampness of the ground. For these reasons, you 
 should be positively certain, before you dare level a blow at a 
 man's reputation. 
 
 To discover whether seeds possess the power of vegetation, 
 is quite as important for your own benefit, as to test the seeds- 
 man's honesty. Sowing dead seed will occasion the loss of 
 much time and patience. You should, therefore, take a little 
 of that which you consider doubtful, and steep it in warm 
 water for several hours, when, if it show unmistakable signs 
 of sprouting, you may sow as soon as you please. The only 
 "way to discover whether you have been cheated in the quality 
 of the plant, is to wait patiently until the crop comes to 
 maturity. 
 
 SO'WIXG. 
 
 " Then plant the germinating seed, 
 And reap an honest, grateful meed.,'' 
 
 Tills is, undoubtedly, the most important operation of the 
 whole year. In the want of personal experience, the young 
 beginner is obliged to rely upon the instructions of others. 
 
 The first inquiry will naturally be as to the most suitable 
 time for sowing. By an examination of the DiCTroNAuv in the 
 succeeding part of the volume, it will appear that there are 
 varieties ripening at different seasons, and which require to be 
 sown at different periods. Those intended for autumn and 
 winter use are, as a general thing, to be sown two or three 
 months later than those which are wanted during the summer. 
 
56 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 Some cultivators prefer sowing in autumn, and protecting the 
 plants through the winter, by which course the crop may be 
 expected many days earlier, than where the opening of spring 
 is waited for. Whether this gain will counterbalance the 
 extra trouble and risk, the student must determine for him- 
 self. Otliers i-ecoinmend sowing in a hot-bed about the latter 
 part of winter, and transplanting to the open ground as soou 
 as the weather becomes mild. The earliest sowing in the open 
 air should be in a warm border, to be protected during cold 
 nights by means of mats or straw. Should the plants be cut 
 off by frost, there will still be plenty of time to secure a crop. 
 There is an old English saying, that " the early sower never 
 borrows of the late." 
 
 Sowing should always be performed in dry weather, pai*- 
 ticularly when the soil is of a tenacious cliaracter. In working 
 ground just after a heavy fall of rain, it adheres to the spade, 
 or other implement, and becomes a kind of mortal', which is 
 baked by the sun into a hard crust with difficulty penetrated 
 by the tender stem. We, therefore, prefer to sow when tlie 
 earth is light and free, and when there is a prospect of a 
 shower or gentle rain. This wakens the gei-m into life, and 
 brings it up to the surftice a vigorous plant. The soil should 
 be finely pulverized, so as to come in contact with the very 
 smallest seed. And it should, moreover, be freshly stirred, 
 because it will then be full of atmospheric air, moist and per- 
 meable to heat, which are the three essential requisites for 
 germination. 
 
 In gardens, it is customary to form beds of convenient 
 ■width for subsequent cultivation. We think that an average 
 width of fuur feet is suitable. Although, by this ai-rangement, 
 there will be a great deal of ground in the shape of alleys and 
 paths lying idle, the ease of taking care of the plants will there- 
 by be much increased. It is well to have the beds as nearly 
 as possible of a uniform size, because regularity of lines adds 
 to the general appearance of the whole. The tops of the beds 
 
GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 57 
 
 should b3 levelled smoothly, and tlie sides made sloping, so 
 that they will not crumble djwn at the first rain. Tlie rake is 
 a very effective implement for such woric ; it brings all the 
 email stones into the allejj^, and breaks up the lumps of earth 
 which the spaile has left. Let all this be done neatly, because 
 the owner will then take greater satisfacaon in the after- 
 culture. 
 
 Broadcast sowing is deservedly falling into disrepute, for 
 with a gardener its only recommendation is that of expedition at 
 the most hurried season. In reality, however, it causes an ac- 
 tual loss of time. The plants must be thinned out and trans- 
 planted at a period when every moment should be spent in 
 resisting the encroachments of weeds and insects. Tliere is 
 considerable risk in this removal from the seed bed ; — the 
 fibrous roots are broken and injured, so that mmsual care is 
 necessary in their protection, until they become fairly estab- 
 lished. Tlie drill system is certainly much more tidy and con- 
 venient. The hoe can be used freely, while the beneficial 
 influences of light and air are effectually admitted to the leaves 
 and soil. The good effects will be discovered, not only in the 
 increased product and its improved quality, but also in the 
 better preparation of the land for the succeeding crop. 
 
 A seed requires heat, air and moisture to ensure germina- 
 tion. In the absence of either of these three conditions, it 
 may remain dormant for centuries. When wakening into 
 life, moisture is absorbed, the seed swells, the starch is con- 
 verted into sugar, the germ bursts its integuments, and the 
 stem pushes its way towards the surface, while the root buries 
 itself downward in search of nutriment. Xow, it is surely an 
 object to hasten this process, for thereby the crop will be ac- 
 celerated, and the young plant sooner placed beyond all dan- 
 ger from the attacks of its enemies. The mere putting the 
 seed into the ground is not always sufficient. With certain 
 kinds, it is well known that days, or even weeks, will elapse 
 
58 
 
 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 before the plant is developed ; by which time the weeds may 
 have taken undisturbed possession of the bed. 
 
 A great deal has been said lately about steeping the seeds 
 before planting, so as to hasten vegetation. Various steeps 
 have been proposed, among which are solutions of saltpetre, 
 nitrate of soda, muriate of ammonia, sulpliate of ammonia, 
 guano, and chloride of lima. Warm water answers a very 
 good purpose. The lengtli of time for each kind of feeed to 
 remain in the steep varies, and must be determined, together 
 ■with many other things of equal importance, by experiment. 
 If suffered to I'emain too long, putrefaction will commence, 
 ■which either weakens or destroys the vitality of the germ. 
 "We do not think it prudent, as a general thing, to delay sow- 
 ing after the seed swells and gives unmistakable signs of 
 sprouting. Should the ground be very dry, and continue so, 
 the moisture in the seed will probably be abstracted, and the 
 germ will perish ; in such case, it is advisable to apply water 
 every day until all danger is over. Perhaps the ground may 
 be wet and cold, and then the gardener need not be surprised 
 if, after waiting patiently a week for the plants to discover 
 themselves, he should lind that the seeds have rotted. There- 
 fore, this plan of steeping seeds must be used with caution ; 
 or delay and vexation may result instead of benefit. 
 
 The manner of sowing next demands attention. If broad- 
 cast, the seed may be covered by a rake, or a brancli of a tree, 
 or a roller — which, indeed, is preferable in dry weatlier, as it 
 makes the surface compact, without leaving any hiding places 
 for insects. If in drills, the drill-rakes should be used for 
 marking out the ground. For example, say the seed is to be 
 sown in drills eight inches apart ; — take the rake, having its 
 teeth set at that distance, and draw it across one end of the 
 bed, by which means several drills (according to the number 
 of teeth) will be mad« at the same time. Then place one 
 tooth in the last drill, aad again draw the rake over the bed ; 
 and so on, until the whole be marked out. The depth of tlio 
 
GEN'KRAL MANAGEMENT. 59 
 
 drills "Will be regulatcid by the force with Tvliicli you bear upon 
 the rake. Tlieri sow the seed, either thinly or thickly, as di- 
 rected for the different vegetables in the Dictio.varv, Let the 
 work be done well, as "Seeds are great tell-tales; for when 
 they come up, we discover all the carelessness that may have 
 prevailed at the sowing of them," 
 
 The surface of the bed should be pressed into close contact 
 with the seed ; it can be done by beating it gently with the 
 back of the spade, by the use of the roller, by treading down 
 the drills, or by walking upon a board. In using the board, 
 place it lengthwise of the bed, and walk on it from end to 
 end ; then move it, and so proceed until the whole surface be 
 made smooth and compact. 
 
 If the weather continue dry, the ground may be gently 
 watered soon after sowing, and regularly afterwards until the 
 young plants become estabUshed. This has been proved of 
 decided benefit. But, when this artificial watering has in- 
 duced the germ to start prematurely, and is then withheld, 
 the consequences are fatal ; the plant dies for want of moist- 
 ure in the surrounding soil. In this, as in several other mat- 
 ters, we cannot too often repeat, that the reader must 
 depend more upon his own judgment, than upon any written 
 directions. 
 
 CULTIVATION" WITH THE HOE. 
 
 As soon as the young plants appear above ground, they 
 require attention. They will probably come up very thick in 
 tlie drills, and need being thinned out Avhenever the seed- 
 leaves are well developed. This should by no means be neg- 
 lected. With a narrow hoe, loosen the soil to a moderate 
 depth, cut down all weed^, however small, and thin the plants 
 80 that they will stand about an inch distant from each other 
 in the drills. It is not advisable, in this early stage of their 
 growth, to pull up more ; as you may lose many by the de- 
 predations of vermin. It is even better to go over the ground 
 
60 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 half a dozen times, than to make a second sowing to fill up 
 Vacant spaces. In a few days' time, the stems will acquire 
 considerable size, so that you must give them another— 
 and, if much hurried, the final— thinning. As to the distancea 
 to be observed for the different vegetables, we refer you to the 
 Dictionary. 
 
 The hoe has frequently been called the gardener's best 
 friend. We do not know that it can be too often used. An 
 old distich runs,— 
 
 " The more we hocj 
 The more we grow." 
 
 Hoeing is of benefit even when there are no weeds to de- 
 stroy; and in fact it should be the object to keep, rather than 
 to get, them out of the beds. Hoeing makes the ground sweet, 
 and open to tlie atmosphere ; whereby the crops are much 
 sooner brought to maturity, and in greater perfection. Strange 
 fts it may seem, keeping the surface light and porous, will 
 prevent the ;,.Hrching effects of drought. Thus, in a dry sea- 
 son, a well-tilled garden suffers less than a field of grain on 
 the opposite side of the fence. 
 
 During the day time, the loose soil imbibes heat freely, and 
 transmits it to tlie most distant rootlets, securing to them that 
 wai'mth which is so essential to a vigorous growth ; but, at 
 the approach of evening, when the temperature of the air 
 falls, a reversed action takes place, and tlie heat is radiated 
 or thrown olT quite as rapidly as it v/as received. If, on a 
 hot day, you fill a pitcher with cold water, in a few momenta 
 you will find tlie outside covered with drops of moistm-e, and 
 it is a Common expression that " the pitcher sweats." Instead, 
 liowever, of the drops having been drawn through the pores 
 of the vessel like perspiration througli the skin, they are drops 
 of vapor condensed from the surrounding air upon the cold 
 pitcher. So with the soil at evening ; as soon as by the radia- 
 tion of heat it becomes colder than the atmosphere, that moist- 
 ure wliich we call dew is condensed, and transmitted to the 
 
GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 61 
 
 root?. The extent of this beautiful operation is just in pro- 
 portion to tli8 looseness of the surfiice. Thus Cubbett says, 
 " A man will raise more moisture, with a hoe or spade, in a 
 (lav, tlum he can pour on the earth out of a watering pot in a 
 month." 
 
 We sliall say nothing upon the chemical action of the air 
 upon an open soil, which might involve us in some tedious 
 disqui>ition, but, instead thereof, relate an experiment made by 
 Ourwen, an eminent agriculturist. He planted cabbages 
 upon a piece of ground so stiff and forbidding, that the neigh- 
 bors considered his labor lost. Not discouraged by their 
 sneers, he took a horse and cultivator, and subjected the laud 
 to almost constant stirring throughout the season. The end of 
 the matter was, that he gathered an immense crop, — some of 
 the heads weighing over fifty pounds each. The beneficial 
 results of such treatment are so well attested, that one of the 
 most noted liorticulturists in our country, writes in the fol- 
 lowing strain : — " If I had ' a call ' to preach a sermon on gar- 
 dening I should take tilis for my text, ' Stir the soil:" 
 
 Tli<^ reader needs not to be informed of the worthlessness 
 of weeds. Every one takes up as much room and robs the 
 soil of as much nutriment, as a useful plant. It should be the 
 intention to keep them out of the garden hmits. Cut, this 
 is scarcely possible. With all your care, they will obtain 
 an entrance, and you then have no other course to pursue, 
 than to commence the work of extirpation. Tlie moment a 
 head pjeps above the surface, cut it off with the hoe, or, 
 where foun 1 in a drill, do not hesitate to u^e the thumb and 
 forefinger. 
 
 Do not neglect so important a duty; for, as "ill weede 
 grow apace," a few hours' lab;)r at this period will effect more 
 than whole days of hard drudgery, after they have acquired a 
 mastery. You cannot commence too soon ; and it is even 
 better to give up sowing late varieties, than to ne^-lect those 
 which are already suffering from the want of youi* care. Keep 
 6 
 
g2 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 yom* hoe polished brightly, and your vegetables free from 
 such unworthy associates. But, by no means allow one of the 
 foul intruders to go to seed upon your premises. Tear it up, 
 root and branch, and carry it to the compost heap, as that is 
 about the only beneticial purpose to which it may be applied. 
 If the seed vessels have already perfected themselves, do not 
 put it on the heap, nor throw it in the pig pen ; but buni it 
 up, or dispose of it in such other way, as will prevent the 
 seeds being returned to the land. Recollect that " One year's 
 seeding makes seven years' weeding." , 
 
 "All hate the rank society of weeds, 
 Noisome, and ever greedy to exhaust 
 Th' impoverished earth ; an overbearing race, 
 That, like the multitude made faction-mad, 
 Disturb good order, and degrade true worth." 
 
 Thus keep your ground in a good state of tilth, and you 
 may be assured of ample returns for your industry. Do not 
 grumble if you, or your laborers, wear out half a dozen hoes 
 in each season, if you can be satisfiec^hat it was caused by 
 good honest labor. The cost of a hoe is but little compared 
 with the increased produce of a dozen bushels of vegetables. 
 
 DESTRUCTION OF VERMIN. 
 
 "A feeble race I yet oft 
 The sacred sons of vengeance ; on whose course 
 Corrosive Famine waits, and kills the year." 
 
 Nothing is more vexatious and discouraguig for the gar- 
 dener, than to see the objects of his care actually swept away 
 by vermin of all kinds and sizes, of whose habits he is wholly 
 ignorant,— unless their partiality for tender vegetables be ex- 
 cepted. He may have lab;)red diligently for weeks, perhaps 
 months ; yet in a single night, his choicest plants will be de- 
 stroyed. Of the whole vegetable kingdom, there is scarce a 
 useful member which is not liable to these attacks at dilferent 
 
GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 63 
 
 statues of its growth. Some vermin prey upon the root, others 
 choose the stem and brcinclies, a third class prefer the leaves, 
 a foartli select the fljwers, while a fifth reject everything but 
 the fruit or seed. For example ; if the seed of the common 
 turnip i^ so fortunate as to escape a minute weevil, another 
 enemy awaits the unfiVlding of the first leaves ; another buries 
 itself in the bulb and rootlets, so that they become diseased, 
 and c )verod widi unseemly e.^crescences ; and the mature 
 foliage fiilU-. the prey of caterpillars. It is, therefore, the duty 
 of the gardener to study the character and habits of these 
 depredators, so as to guard against their attacks. The reader 
 who may desire a thorough acquaintance with the subject, 
 must refer to works of greater pretensions tlian this volume. 
 We have room for only a few practical liints. 
 
 An ounce of prevention is said to be worth a pound of cure 
 and the student will naturally first inquire for the best modes, 
 of protecting his plants. This will in a measure be secured by 
 liigh cultui'e, — having the ground rich, sowing healthy seed, 
 and hastening the maturity of the crop. As tlie young stems 
 and leaves are sweetest, so are they most liable to injur v ; and 
 everything that accelerates their growth, adds to then* security. 
 It is the policy of some cultivators to turn over the soil late in 
 autumn, in order that the grubs and insects which have taken 
 up their winter quarters may be exposed to the action of frost. 
 We are acquainted with many gardens which have thus been 
 almost entirely rid of these pests. The application of salt at 
 the rate of two or three bushels per acre, in spring, or the oc- 
 casional use of strong brine, is highly recommended ; but, 
 salt is a very powerful agent, and in every form must be ap- 
 plied with caution, lest vegetation should also be injured. 
 Rolling or pressing the surface of tke ground compactly, after 
 sowing, is an excellent plan, as the flies are thereby deprived 
 of hiding places around the little lumps of dirt. 
 
 Reproduction should be prevented as much as possible. When 
 crushing a grub under foot, or stifling a beetle, the gardenec- 
 
54 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 lessens the number of his enemies by milhons in emhrtjo. Tlie 
 aphides, or plant hce, multiply with astonishing rapidity, and 
 a single butterfly has been estimated to produce thirty millions 
 of descendants at the third generation! The butterfly, which 
 is the parent of destructive caterpillars, will doposite its eggs 
 upon pieces of woolen cloth laid upon currant bushes or around 
 cabbage plants. It is even good policy to employ little boys 
 and girls in this work, giving them a bounty on every worm, 
 chrysalis, moth or nest of egg^^, which they may discover. 
 Children have very sharp eyes when their industry is stimu- 
 lated by hopes of a pecuniary reward. Lai'ge gardens liave 
 thus been kept free from vermin at the annual cost of a few 
 shillings. Bonfires of shavings or brush, just after twilight in 
 the evening, will attract and destroy immense numbers of 
 flying beetles. 
 
 The next inquiry will be, what is to be done after the ver- 
 min, in spite of all the above precautions, have actuall}^ made 
 their appearance. The war against them must be vigorously 
 prosecuted. The most certain, and tlierefore the best, mode 
 of attack, is by hand-picking ; but, the difficulty of capturinjj 
 the minute and most agile insects by the fingers, will prevent 
 its general adoption. However repulsive maybe its personal 
 appearance, the common toad is a very valuable assistant in 
 this work. The writer who termed it " the most deformed 
 and hideous of all animals," could scarcely have known its use 
 in the vegetable garden. Its eye is active, and its long, viscid 
 tongue moves so rapidly, that it will destroy twenty or more 
 wood-lice in two or three minutes. It lives almost entirely 
 upon small worms and insects, and in a very unostentatious 
 and quiet manner relieves the cultivator of many of his most 
 troublesome enemies. • 
 
 Bat, still other plans are required. These are numerous; — 
 such as dusting the plants, when covered with moisture, with 
 soot, ashes, snufF, charcoal, sulphur, road-dust, powdered hen- 
 dung, air slacked lime, etc. ; or watering them and the ground 
 
GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 65 
 
 with soap-suds, solutions of saltpetre, guano, hen-dung and 
 whale oil soap,* decoctions of tobacco and elder, etc ; or fu- 
 migating them with sulphur and tobacco. Soap-suds from 
 the wash-room is excellent for tliis purpose, and it likewise 
 proves an excellent fertilizer. AVhale oil soap is very cheap 
 and efficient ; care must be taken, ho-s^^ever, not to make the 
 solution too strong, lest it injure the plants. Of soap of an 
 average quality, one pound may be put to seven gallons of 
 water ; but, as its strength varies much, the gardener should 
 determine the proportions by experiment. 
 
 We have long used a solution of hen-dung with success, 
 and we recommend it because it is always easily obtained- 
 "We have a tub standing in a convenient part of the garden, 
 and, at the time when the insects are expected, put in the bot- 
 tom about one bushel of hen-dung, upon which we pour several 
 pailfuls of boiUng water. When the mixture has become 
 semi-fluid, by frequent stirring, we fill the tub up with water. 
 After remaining twelve hours longer, the liquid should be of 
 a dark green color, and somewhat offensive to the nostnls, as 
 upon that particular depends its efficacy. It may then be 
 cautiously applied upon melon and cabbage hills, and, in fact, 
 every place hable to the attacks of insects. 
 
 We also make use of the vine-shield, (Fig. 4,) wliich not 
 only protects the plant, but greatly accelerates its growth. 
 Could the scratching propensities of poultry be i-estrained, their 
 assistance would be of no little value. Broods of vouno- 
 chickens will do much good, — the hens being confined, and 
 the chicks suffered to roam over tlie beds ; as soon, however, 
 as their claws become troublesome, a new brood should take 
 their place. Whatever mode may be adopted, much depends 
 
 * To make Whale Oil Soap— Take eighteen pounds of potash and 
 thirty pounds of foot oil, and mix them together in a barrel. Every 
 other day add twelve quarts of boiling water, and stir the whole for a few 
 minutes every day, until the barrel be full, when the mixture will be fit 
 for use. 
 
gg GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 upon tlie time when operations are commenced. The moment 
 the enemy appears, tlie signal for a general onslaught should 
 be given. By such prompt action only, may the cultivator 
 have cause to expect a crop. 
 
 After these general directions, we think it "well to give 
 short notices of tlie most important vermin : — 
 
 Caterpillars are the young, or larvae, of butterflies. Their 
 appearance and habits vary so much, that it is impossible 
 to give any particular description. They are very destructive, 
 and should be diligently looked after. The various remedies 
 proposed — such as lime-water, tobacco-water, brine, ashes, (fee, 
 are partial and uncertain ; nothing is so effectual as hand- 
 picking. 
 
 Cut-worm, or Black Grub. This is about the size of a 
 goose-quill, and ash-colored with a dark stripe upon the back. 
 During the day time, it lies snugly buried in the ground, about 
 an inch below the surface ; but emerges at night to eat off the 
 stems of young plants. Common remedies are of no avail ; 
 lime and salt have no perceptible effect upon it. The only 
 efficient plan is to examine tlie beds every morning, and by 
 digging around those plants which have been destroyed, the 
 worm may most generally be found. As a preventive, it is 
 advised to wrap a burdock or walnut-tree leaf, or a small piece 
 of writing paper, around each stem when transplanted. The 
 vine-shield is also a good protection. 
 
 The AxT is very mischievous, and sometimes occasions 
 considerable damage. It would be scarcely worth while to 
 destroy a single one wherever found. In the evening, the 
 i nest may be discovered by observing the course of those re- 
 turning from their day's labor. When the whole family are 
 collected, hot water may be poured upon them, and (ew will 
 escape. When the nests are numerous and tliis mode is 
 thought too ti-oublesome, they can be dug up by a spade, at 
 any time in winter when a hard frost is anticipated, so that 
 the iuhabitauts shall be exposed to the severity of the weather. 
 
GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 67 
 
 TuRxiP Flt. — This appears to be a general name for sever- 
 al kinds of agile and destructive insects which attack the tur- 
 nip, the cabbage, <fec., when in the seed leaf, and either totally 
 devour tliem, or kill the centre buds. Their devastations are 
 kept up with so much spirit, that the sowing of seed must in 
 some years be repeated four or five times. Burning brush 
 upon the ground before sowing, is an excellent preventive. 
 Some gardeners steep tlie seed in sulphur- water ; others put 
 lime, slacked by urine and mixed with a treble quantity of 
 soot, in the diill ; others dust the plants with air-slacked lime, 
 gypsum, soot, ashes, &c; while m?.,ny are satisfied with fre- 
 quent sprinklings of soap suds, or even pure watftr. A brood 
 of chickens is very usefuL 
 
 Aphides, or Plaxt Lice. Ahiiost every kind of vegetable 
 seems to have a species of the lou.^e peculiar to itself. They 
 multiply with astonishing rapidity, and are of various colors — 
 as green, brown, black, blue, red and purple. They fasten 
 upon the tender buds, and render them incapable of develop- 
 ment. Sometimes the entire bean crop will be thus destroyed. 
 Sprinkle the parts affected with tobacco-water, a solution of 
 whale oil soap, and soap suds ; or dust with lime and snuflt As 
 Uie ends of the branches are generally first attacked, they may 
 be bent over into one of the above solutions ; and bean or pea 
 vines will be benefited by nipping off those parts, as the crop 
 id thereby much increased- 
 
 The CucuMBKK. Bug is yellow, striped with black. It eats 
 tlie tender foliage and flowers of the cucumber family. 
 
 The Squash Bug has an orange-colored belly, with a tur- 
 tle-shaped back. It collects under the leaves and upon the 
 fruit of vines. In a morning when a heavy dew has fallen, 
 the cucumber and squash bugs have not tlie free use of their 
 wings, and may easily be caught by hand- We often take 
 the ti'ouble of knocking them, by a sly stroke, into a little dish 
 of suds carried in the left hand. 
 
 EosE Bugs are beetles about half an inch long, with sler<- 
 
68 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 der bodies tapering to each end. They come from the ground 
 in June, when the rose is in blossom. Coming like a cloud of 
 locusts, they destroy foliage and fruit of almost eveiy descrip- 
 tion ; but are remarkably fond of young graj>es. We have 
 tried several plans for their destruction, such as sprinkling 
 them with a very strong solution of whale oil soap, and fumi- 
 gating the leaves with turpentine or sulphur. About the only 
 result of our experiments, was the loss of a fine cherry tree 
 for which we would not have taken a ten dollar bill. Tlie most 
 effectual remedy is to go the rounds of the garden several 
 times a day, and knock every trespasser into a cup of water 
 or turpentine. When the cup is filled, it may be emptied on 
 the ground, care being taken that none escape with a mere 
 bath. By pursuing this course regularly and faithfully, day 
 after day, the gardener will stand some chance of a crop ; 
 and by following it up yearly, the bugs will at lengtli be 
 almost exterminated. 
 
 Mice are sometimes troublesome. Tliey may be caught iu 
 traps, or killed by arsenic — which is a certain, but not alwayj 
 a safe, way of getting rid of them. 
 
 Slugs are very annoying and destructive. Thorough hand- 
 picking should be daily practiced. They are frequently caught 
 upon cabbage leaves, or slices of turnip, laid in their way, and 
 then committed to the fire. 
 
 The JNIoLE, and his burrowing habits, are too well known 
 to need description. He is in reality an innocent trespasser ; 
 for, Avhen undermining the gardener's smooth beds, lie is in 
 search of insects, without the least intention of injuring the 
 seeds and plants. But as this is often a consequence of his 
 extensive galleries, when they become numerous, some method 
 must be contrived to get rid of his friendly visits. Traps may 
 be purchased at the stores, but a very simple and cheap plan 
 is to put tarred sticks in the buiTOWs. which drive him away 
 in disgust. 
 
GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 09 
 
 TRANSPLANTING. 
 
 Transplanting is the process of removing a plant from one 
 eituation to another. Thus, cabbage seed is generally sown 
 broadcast, and the plants, when three or four inches high, are 
 Bet out in the compartment where they are to come to ma- 
 turity. As with the process of sowing, upon the time when, 
 and the manner in which this labor may be perfomied, depend 
 a successful result The intention is, that the roots shall suffer 
 from their change of locality as little inconvenience as possible. 
 They ought not to be exposed to the air for any length of 
 time, particuhirly in hot weather, and the ground should, 
 therefore, be properly prepared — by being spaded deep, and 
 manured, — before the plants are taken from the seed bed 
 And, moreover, this preparation should be very recent, because 
 the delicate fibres most readily attach themselves to a freshly 
 dug loam. 
 
 Select for the operation, an evening, or a damp, cloudy day, 
 or when a shower is expected ; but not soon after a heavy 
 rain, because the soil, if stirred when wet, is apt to become 
 stiff like mortar, and to be baked into a hard crust by the next 
 rays of the sun. The most successful transplanting is per- 
 formed with a troweL Push it down so as to reach below the 
 root, and, by a dexterous movement of the hand, di'aw up the 
 plant firmly set in a little ball of earth, which can be put 
 wherever desired, and the plant will scarcely experience any 
 check in its growtli. 
 
 In transplanting with the dibble, you must go over the 
 ground, and insert it at the proper distances, in such a manner 
 as to leave deep, smooth holes. Draw up a sufficient number 
 of stout, healthy plants, and carry with you, in a small vessel, 
 a semi-fluid mass of cow-dung and water. Dip each root into 
 the mixture, so that the dirt will adhere to the small fibrous 
 extremities ; and place it in the hole so that it will run down 
 perfectly straight, without being turned up at the bottom 
 
70 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 This latter caution is paiticularly necessary in the case of the 
 beet, carrot, and other tap-rooted vegetables. When the plant 
 is at the right depth, insert the dibble, or a pointed shingle, at 
 a short distance from the stem, and push the earth up close to 
 the root. Many people imagine that if the crown or the body 
 be th'mly set, it is quite sufficient; they surely cannot have 
 reflected, that it is only the spongioles at the ends of the fibres 
 which are capable of collecting nourishment from the soil, and 
 that the body is nothing more than the channel for conveying 
 it to the bi'anches. 
 
 Should the weather become warm, the leaves and stem 
 will suffer greatly from the sun's rays, unless some kind of 
 shelter be given. A celery trench can be covered with boards 
 during the day time. The vine-sliield, with a piece of cloth; 
 or paper, lying upon the glass, forms a good protection for 
 cabbages which stand some distance apart. Indeed, we have 
 often used pieces of old newspaper, laid over the plant, with a 
 heavy stone at each corner to prevent their being blown away 
 by the wind ; this is troublesome, and not practicable in large 
 plantations, but is well adapted for a few choice varieties, 
 when no other means for protection are at hand. Or, a little 
 brushwood may be thrown upon the ground, and overlaid 
 with thin mats or straw. "Whatever plan may be adopted, 
 do not omit taking off the covering at the approach of even- 
 ing, that tlie leaves may be favored with the usual deposite of 
 dew. With many kinds of plants, it is advisable to apply 
 tepid water, soon after being set out in a new bed, and every 
 subsequent evening until the roots become firmly established. 
 Keep the soil well stirred by tlie hoe, carefully eradicate 
 every weed which springs up, and guard ag;iinst the ravages 
 of vermin. Nothing but a little attention at the proper time 
 is necessary to ensure success. 
 
GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 71 
 
 APPLICATION OF WATER, 
 
 " The thirsty earth soaks up the rain, 
 And drinks, and gapes for drink again. 
 The plants s-uck in the earth, and are 
 "With constant drinKing fresh and fair." 
 
 In the article called " The Cistern," as well as in several 
 distinct paragraphs, we have set forth the most important ad- 
 vantages of applying water to garden crops. We, of course, 
 do nut approve of its indiscriminate or excessive use ; but 
 iiave no hesitation in saying that, wlien properly given, it 
 hastens the growth of the plant, and secures it from injury at 
 the most trying peri<ids of its existence, besides improving the 
 size and flavor of the product. 
 
 With strawberries and the like, tlie practice of mulching 
 or of covering the ground with hay, straw or litter, so as to 
 clieck evaporation, as well as prevent the parching effects of 
 the sun's rays, is vastly more convenient. 
 
 The following judicious remarks are from the pen of J. J. 
 Thonia^ the well known correspo?ident of the "Albany Culti- 
 vator," and who is one of the most eminent horticulturists in 
 the country. " From repeated experiments, we are induced to 
 draw tlie conclusion, that next to manure, the great prime 
 mover in successful culture, there is nothing more important 
 to vegetable growth, in many cases, than irrigation. Practical 
 gardeners, in countries far uK^re moist than our own, regard it 
 as indispensable, and a large share of their success depends on 
 copious waterings. 
 
 " Some interesting instances, which have recently occurred 
 may be worth stating. Two rows of raspberries stand on 
 ground io every respect alike, except that one receives the 
 drippings from a wood-house, and the other does not. The 
 watered row is fully four times as large in growth as the other. 
 Again : the berries on the bushes of the Fastolf and Franconia 
 raspbemes were at least twice as large when the sod was 
 kept well moistened, as afterwards, when allowed to become 
 
72 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 dry ; a repetition of the watering again doubled their size. 
 Again : a near i\eighbor, who cultivates strawberries for mar^ 
 ket, and who uses u water cart for irrigating the rows, raised 
 at the rate of one hundred and twenty bushels to the acre on 
 common good soil by this means ; and he noticed that where 
 the cart was left standing over night, so that the water gradu- 
 ally dripped from it for some hours upon a portion of the 
 plants, the fruit had grown to double the size of the rest, in 
 twenty-four hours." 
 
 Gold water ought never to be given, as it chills both tlse 
 ground and the vegetables. It should have been exposed to 
 the atmosphere for several hours, and may in the morning be 
 put in a tub or trough, so that it can be sufificiently warmed by 
 the sun to apply at evening. As to the most suitable time for 
 its application, authorities are divided between morning and 
 evening, and we dare not rec-apitulate the arguments on either 
 Bide, but advise the reader to settle the question by his own 
 experiments. For our own part, we can truly say, that we 
 have as yet seen nothing to change our preference foi' the 
 evening. A garden engine, or a watering pot, may be em- 
 ployed, according to the dimensions of the garden and the 
 fancy of the owner. 
 
 Frequent sprinklings are of more benefit, than an occa- 
 sional saturation of the ground. Excessive watering is posi- 
 tively injurious, because it puddles the soil and drills the roots. 
 Tlie quantity given must be regulated by the nature of the 
 plant and the character of the season. And, when the practice 
 of watering is once begun, it should not be discontinued so 
 long as the necessity for it remains. The seed is sometimes 
 induced to germinate, and in consequence of the artificial 
 watering being suddenly suspended, the young stem is killed 
 by the drought. The benefit is temporary, and has the effect 
 of exciting the plant so tliat it is afterwards more liable to 
 injury, in case the regular supply of moisture s-hould be with- 
 held. Whenever the soil shows a disposition to bake, the hoc 
 
GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 73 
 
 must be promptly used, so as to keep the surface always open 
 and light. In adapting these rules to his own grounds, the 
 gardener should recollect, that written instructions cannot suit 
 all locahties, or all seasons of the year. He must depend 
 mainly upon his own good sense. 
 
 SAVING SEED. 
 
 We have in another place shown the importance of sowing 
 Boiind, healthy seed, and that, moreover, of the choicest varie- 
 ties. In the beginning of the gardener's labors, he must apply 
 to some neighbor or to a well known seedsman ; but, subse- 
 quently, he should endeavor to supply liimself, with some few 
 exceptions, from his own premises. 
 
 It is a well attested fact, that if two different varieties of a 
 vegetable are permitted to blossom, at the same time, within a 
 short distance of each other, they intermix, and produce a 
 hybrid partaking of the character of both parents. The fertil- 
 izing dust of the stamens in the flowers of one plant is con- 
 veyed by the wind or insects, to the pistils in the flowers of 
 the other. The distinctive features of each are thereby lost 
 while the new variety may possess not a single point to make 
 it worthy of cultivation. It is seldom that such a chance 
 hybrid proves of much real value. Tlie origination in this 
 way of any choice esculent, is almost ever the result of study 
 and long experiment. 
 
 A knowledge of this fact is of peculiar importance to the 
 gardener, who?e object is to raise several different varieties of 
 the same vegetable upon a small piece of ground. It is by 
 this only, that ho can satisfactorily account for the rapid deteri- 
 oration of the choicest sorts. Where, for example, he culti- 
 vates the melon, the cucumber and the pumpkin in close com- 
 panionsliip, but a few seasons will elapse before he finds the 
 juiciness, perfume and delicate flavor of the first named, ex- 
 changed for the coarse flesh of the last. And the celebrated 
 7 
 
74 GARDENER'S TEXT -BOOK. 
 
 JBrassica tribe, among which are our cabbage, cauliflower, <fec., 
 are supposed to number several hundreds, produced by inten- 
 tional or chance intermixture. We, therefore, consider it as 
 dangerous to allow plants of a particular family to run to seed 
 in the vicinity of each other, as to turn a rough, scrubby, 
 " JS'ative" bull among a herd of thorough-bred Durhams. 
 
 You will now very naturally inquire, good reader, how 
 you are to raise seed, and yet preserve the several varieties 
 distinct. We first answer, that you ought to reduce the 
 number of varieties to the very choicest — such as are desira- 
 ble for being early or late, or of unusual size, or having a fine 
 flavor, or distinguished for great productiveness, — instead of 
 keeping a selection large enough for a seedsman. They are 
 in reality very few, for the majority of the fine-sounding 
 names in catalogues are given to plants of an inferior char- 
 acter. 
 
 Such as you select for seeding, should be located as far 
 apart as the extent of your territory will admit, so as to lessen 
 the chances of intermixture. And where the vitality of the 
 seed will remain unimpaired for two or three years, you may 
 allow only a part of the varieties to blossom in each year. 
 Thus, by reference to the table at the end of this article, it 
 will appear that cabbage seed preserves its germinating 
 power for four years, and by permitting only one kind to per- 
 fect itself in a season, you may have four distinct kinds in 
 perfect purity. This rule is good as far as it goes, but you 
 will perceive that it is not of general application. Where you 
 are obliged to have two or more kinds in flower at the same 
 time, as with members of the cucumber family, place them as 
 far asunder as possible. We think it better to raise only one 
 valuable sort of seed, and depend upon a responsible seeds 
 man for the balance, than to run the risk of getting mongrels. 
 
 Of such varieties as you select for seeding, choose the best 
 plants only, — those which are healthy, and have their peculiar 
 characteristics most perfectly developed. To insure earliness, 
 
GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 75 
 
 only the most forward plants should be taken. Let the soil 
 be rich and well cultivated ; allowing plenty of room to the 
 roots. Attend carefully to the subsequent growth, for the 
 leaves and shoots are very apt to be injured by insects, and 
 are often choked by rank weeds. It will be tlie best policy to 
 look at the plants at least once a week, and, when the weather 
 gets very dry, it becomes advisable to apply water in moder- 
 ate quantities. The seed stalks will be thrown up in the early 
 part of sunmier ; being high and having many branches, they 
 are liable to be broken down by heavy rains or strong winds. 
 The labor of tying them up to stakes is trifling, and ought on 
 no account to be neglected. 
 
 When the seeds are ripe, gather them without unnecessary 
 delay ; otherwise, tlie pods will split open, and their contents 
 be scattered lipon the ground. Do not gather indiscriminately, 
 but take only the finest looking heads. By this selection of 
 the best plants and the best seed, good varieties may be even 
 improved, and they certainly will not deteriorate. In this 
 way many of our choice vegetables have been obtained. The 
 practical stock-breeder's motto is, tliat " Like produces like," 
 and he breeds from those animals only wliich possess the 
 points he wishes perpetuated. Thus, if you select the earliest 
 peas from the earliest vines, for a number of seasons, you can 
 obtain a variety ripening several days earlier than that with 
 which you commenced. It has been done once, and may be 
 done again. 
 
 Place the seed vessels, as soon as gathered, upon a cloth 
 in the shade, so that they may become perfectly dry, at which 
 tune tlu-esh out the seed, by means of a, small stick. Winnow 
 out the chaff and small or defective seed, and put the remain, 
 der iu drawers or small paper bags. Every kind should be 
 labelled with its name and the year when raised, — in this 
 laimnav, '^ Early Salmon Radhh : 1850," This will prevent 
 all pos-ibility of the inexperienced cultivator mistaking beet 
 for cabbage seed, or sowing that which by the lapse of time 
 
76 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 has lost its power of germination. Keep these drawers or 
 bags in a cool, dry apartment, where no injury may be appre- 
 hended from moisture or the attacks of mice. With care, 
 seeds may be preserved for several years, according to the 
 annexed table. 
 
 The vitality of seeds, under favorable circumstances, can 
 be depended upon for the following periods : — 
 
 Parsnip, — Rhubarb, — and other thin scaly seeds, — for one 
 year. 
 
 Balm, — Basil, — Beans, — Cardoon, — Carrot, — Cress, — In- 
 dian Cress, — Lavender, — Leek, — Okra, — Onion, — Peas, — Pep- 
 per, — Rampion, — Sage, — Salsify, — Savory, — Scorzonera, — 
 Thyme, — Tomato, — Wormwood,— and small herbs generally, 
 — for two years. 
 
 Artichoke, — Asparagus, — Corn Salad, — Egg-Plant, — En- 
 dive, — Indian Corn, — Lettuce, — Marigold, — Marjoram, — Mus- 
 tard, — Parsley, — Rosemary, — Rue, — Skirret, — Spinach, — 
 and Tansy, — for three years. 
 
 Borage, — Borecole, — Broccoli, — Brussels Sprouts, — Cab- 
 bage. — Cauliflower, — Radish, — Sea-Kale, — Tarragon, — and 
 Turnip, — iovfour years. 
 
 Beet, — Burnet, — Celery, — Chervil, — Cucumber, — Dill, — 
 Fennel, — Hyssop,— Melon, — Pumpkin, — Sorrel, — and Squash, 
 — from^«?i? to eiglit or ten years. 
 
 EARLY PLANTS FOR SPRING USE. 
 
 Every reader can understand the value of early craps. 
 They are less liable to injury from weeds and insects, and 
 cause the " season " of each vegetable to be much extended. 
 On his own table tliey are esteemed luxuries, while in the 
 market they command extraordinary prices. They thus in- 
 crease the profit, as well as the satisfaction, of gardening. For 
 these reasons, it has become a matter of interest, and some- 
 times a matter of laudable rivalry, to procure eariy plants ig 
 
GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 77 
 
 ike spring, instead of then sowing the seed, wUereby the ma- 
 turity of the crop is hastened several days. 
 
 These early plants are obtained in various ways. To save 
 expense, a few seeds may be sown at mid-winter, in a box 
 to be set in a warm kitchen window ; this method, however, 
 is troublesome to the occupants of the room, and cannot be 
 practised to any considerable extent. It is most common to 
 make a hot-bed, as described in the succeeding article, to- 
 wards the latter part of winter, and to sow tlie seeds either 
 upon inverted pieces of turf, or in smaU pots. 
 
 A third plan is to raise the plants in the previous autumn, 
 and protect them through the winter. This bids fair to super- 
 sede the old fiisliioned mode of obtaining them from a hot-bed, 
 because they are quite as early, and are certainly much more 
 Lardy. The seed is sown during September or October, in a 
 shaded border, where it will not suffer from drought or exces- 
 sive heat. Before cold weather sets in, tlie stems will have 
 acquired sufficient size and strength to bear removal to a cold 
 frame, which is nothing more than a hot-bed frame placed on 
 the ground. The earth should be banked up around the out- 
 side of the box, so as to prevent the entrance of water, and 
 sudden alterations of temperature. The plants may be set 
 out by a small dibble, at such distances apart as will be indi- 
 cated in the Dictioxary. When frost is expected, the frame 
 is to be covered Avith shutters or boards, so placed tliat the 
 rain will run off. Every pleasant day, the covering must be 
 wholly or partially removed, for the free admission of air, 
 which is positively essential to tiie health and vigor of the 
 plants. 
 
 To avoid the trouble of transplanting, the frame might be 
 set upon the seed bed, and protected in the manner above de- 
 pcribed ; or the bed could be enclosed by a rough box of 
 boards, supported by stakes, and banked with earth on the 
 outside. The north side of this frame or box should be several 
 inches higher than the south side. The covering may be of 
 7* 
 
7g GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 boards or shutters. Some gardeners adopt a still more simple 
 cold frame, viz : heavy mats laid upon bent hoop poles, some- 
 what like the covered top of a Peunsylvania wagon. In either 
 plan, however, great care is necessary to give light and air, 
 whenever the weather will permit ; or else the plants will ac- 
 quire a weak, spindhng growtli, which ill fits tbem for removal 
 to the open ground. 
 
 "When spring has fairly opened, a part of these early 
 plants in the hot-bed or cold ftame, Biay be set out in a warm^ 
 sheltered border. Tliey will, at first, require the slieltcr of 
 hand-glasses or vine-screens at night, as well as during cold 
 days ; this protection should be gj-adually wi!;hdrawn, when the 
 weather becomes so mild that no danger of late frost is to be 
 apprehended In the eour:^e of a week or fortnight, another 
 parcel may be set out and treated in the same manner, so as 
 to insure a succession of crops. Should there be more plants 
 than the gardener will want for his own use, he may readily 
 dispose of them for cash, or give them away to lus less fortu- 
 Bate neighbors. 
 
 FORCING VEGETATION. 
 
 Forcing is the art of accelerating the growth of plants, by 
 the warmth afforded by certain fermenting substances, so as to 
 obtain vegetables at unusual seasons of the year, llie prac- 
 tice appears to be as old as the time cf the Romans. We coiv 
 sider its chief value to be m raising young plants for removaJ 
 to the open ground in spring. It is, undoubtedly, very curi- 
 ous, ai^id speaks well for a j3orson's horticultural skill, to have 
 an abundance of fresh vegetables when the earth is locked iri 
 the chill embrace of winter ; but, after all, it is attained only 
 after long practice, and is attended with considerable risk — to 
 say nothing of the trouble and expense. In this book, we have 
 aimed to lay aside our individual opinion in regard to this mat- 
 ter, ai^d to give the reader full information of the process. Tho 
 
GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 
 Fig. 21- 
 
go GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 following remarks are general; — particular directions will be 
 found under the appropriate heads in the DictiOiXAry. 
 
 In American gardens, forcing under glass is generally con- 
 ducted in frames and pits. There are several substances em 
 ployed in obtaining this artificial heat, such as tanner's bark, 
 leaves and grass, but the fresh dung of well-fed animals is 
 generally preferred. 
 
 The first object is to get rid of the violent heat and rank 
 vapor produced when fermentation is most powerful. For this 
 purpose, a certain degree of moisture and air is necessary ; and 
 therefore, it will be the gardener's business to place the dung 
 in a couical-shaped heap near the place where wanted for use ; 
 to turn it over about once a week, shaking it well together, so 
 that all parts may be equally exposed to the atmosphere ; and 
 to apply water when the materials appear at all dry. In cold, 
 wet, or boisterous weather, the heap ought to be covered to a 
 moderate depth, with coarse stable litter. 
 
 There is considerable difference of opinion, with regard to 
 the time that stable dung shall be permitted to lie thus in the 
 heap. Ciue must be taken that the process is not carried too 
 far, as in that case there will not be sufficient heat left for the 
 bed, and the plants will be rendered small and sickly. Per- 
 haps it is a good rule, to wait until the greater part of the straw 
 assumes a dark brown color. 
 
 The hot-bed should be in a place free from the shade of trees 
 or buildings, and having an aspect rather a point eastward of 
 the south. Shelter on the nortli-Avest is particularly necessa- 
 ry, Tiie next labor will be to mark out the dimensions of the 
 bed, which, on all sides, ought to be at least ten inches larger 
 than the frame, and a stake should be driven down at each 
 corner as a guide for keeping the edges perfectly straight. It 
 is sometimes recommended to dig a trench from six to eigh- 
 teen inches deep for the recep ion of the manure, as the 
 dampness of the ground will prevent the too rapid escape 
 of heat ; but, as excessive moisture chills the bed, and a3 
 
GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 
 
 81 
 
 by this mode it is difficult to apply linings wlien they become 
 necessary, we think tlie foundation had best be on the surface. 
 Generally, the foundation is level, but Mr. Knight, the dis- 
 tinguished horticulturist, recommends a gentle inclined plane 
 towards the south, as in the accompanying Figure. 
 
 Fig. 22. 
 
 Some persons "will require a board set up edgewise, as a 
 guide in keeping the sides of the bed perpendicular, but the pro- 
 fessed gardener trusts to the accuracy of his eye. The dung 
 must be well shaken by the fork before being used, and a layer 
 of the longest, or littery part, should be laid at the bottom of 
 the bed. Every layer, as it is put on, should be beaten down 
 by the fork, and the outer part especially, because that will 
 have to sustain the weight of the frame. If the dung be not 
 moderately moist, it ought to receive a gentle sprinkling of 
 water. Ashes, tan and leaves, are often mixed witli the dung 
 of hot-bed-j, and are supposed to promote the steadiness and 
 duration of the heat ; indeed, it is generally found that if one- 
 third part be of tan, the heat will be less violent and last 
 longer. The sides ought to be carried up regularly, and 
 combed with the fork, to prevent any unsightly appearance. 
 
 When the heap is built up to a proper height, which 
 varies with the season of the year, and the kind of vegetable 
 to be forced — but ranging between two and four feet, the 
 edges ought to be several inches higher than the centre, be- 
 cause they will sink in a short time under the weight of the 
 
82 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 frame. If the foundation be inclined, as in Fig. 22, the top of 
 the bed should be equally inclined. The frame and sashes 
 can then be placed, and remain closed for tliree or fuui* days ; 
 at the end of which time, they should be opened for the escape 
 of steam and vapor. After these seem to have fairly passed 
 off, the mould can be applied in such manner, and to such 
 depth, as will be indicated in the DicrioxARY. Any good, rich 
 soil, will answer ; but that taken from an t)ld wood lot, or well- 
 rotted grass sods, which were piled up for the purpose a year 
 previous, are considered best adapted to the wants of the 
 plants. The sashes must then be closed, and kept tight for 
 two or three days, until the mould shall have acquired a suit- 
 able degree of warmth fur the reception of the seed. Should 
 the heat be so violent as to bake the earth, a portion ought to be 
 removed, and its place supplied by fresh mould. But even 
 this precaution occasionally proves unavailing, and the tender 
 germ is either injured or killed outright. To prevent which, 
 the seed may be sown in pots plunged in the mould, and if the 
 heat then prove too violent, each pot may be raised up by put* 
 ting a stone at the bottom of the hole. The outside of the 
 bed may be protected by a bank of earth, or coarse litter, 
 during cold winds and storms, to prevent sudden changes oi 
 temperature within the frame. 
 
 The general rules of management are : — to keep the sashes 
 covered with boards, mats or straw, during cold nights and 
 severe storms; to admit air freely in pleasant weather, by 
 sliding down the sashes for an inch or two, or by raising them 
 up \vith wedges at the back part of the frame ; and occasion- 
 ally to apply water in moderate quantities, after it has been 
 kept in the frame for at least twelve hours. When the bed is 
 first made, great care is necessary to prevent the plants being 
 injured by extreme heat, and at that time the protection of 
 mats, (tc, should be much ligliter than afterwards, when the 
 danger is passed. 1\) a>certaiu tliis, the temperature of the 
 bed ought every day to be examined. The most correct in- 
 
GENERAL MANAGEMENT. 83 
 
 strument for the purpose is a thermometer, but, in the "want of 
 that, a trying-stick will answer very well. It is a smooth 
 lath of wood, about two feet long, which is to be thrust into 
 different parts of the manure, and then drawn out and grasped 
 quickly by the hand. Sometimes the heat is found so violent 
 that, in addition to raising the sashes, several holes must be 
 opened in the pile of dung, by means of a large stake or crow- 
 bar, in such a manner that they can be filled up with hay or 
 dung, when they are no longer necessary. 
 
 The air within the frame should be fi'equently renewed, or 
 the plants will become sphidling, with a sickly, yellowish color. 
 They cannot be expected to grow hardy, unless the steam from 
 the dung is permitted to escape, and fresh air to take its place. 
 A hot-bed needs ventilation quite as much as a crowded 
 church. The sashes ought to be opened in all pleasant weather, 
 by the insertion of wedge-shaped props, so that the glass can 
 be raised to any height desired, according to the heat of the 
 bed or the temperature of the atmosphere. When there is a 
 sharp, cutting wind, it will bo advisable to hang a mat over 
 tlie opening, in such a way that, while the plants Avill not suffer 
 from the blast, there may be ample opportunity for the ad-- 
 uoissiou of fresh air. No effort must be spared to keep the 
 plants stout and healthy, the stems strong, and the leaves of a 
 fine green color. 
 
 As soon as the heat is found to decline, " linings," as they 
 are called, should be applied. The litter having been first re- 
 moved, the edges of the bed are to be cut down by a spade 
 close to the frame. It may, perhaps, be best to take only one 
 side at a time, by which means the heat will be renclered 
 more regular and permanent. Several holes are to be opened 
 in the manure by the crowbar or a large stake, and a bank, or 
 "lining," of fresh dung, is to take the place of that which has 
 just been removed. The width of this " lining " will vary from 
 ten to twenty inches, according to the coldness of the season ; 
 and it should not be carried up much higher than the bed, lest 
 
g4 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 the violent heat escape directly into the mould, and thereby 
 injure the roots of the plants. To prevent the heat being 
 wasted in the air, it will be necessary to cover the lining with 
 a few inches of eartlx. This process may be repeated once or 
 twice, until the maturity of the crop, or the increasing warmth 
 of spring, shall render it useless, 
 
A DICTIONARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE VEGETABLES, FRUITS, AND MEDICINAL 
 
 HERBS USUALLY CULTIVATED IN A 
 
 KITCHEN GARDEN. 
 
 ARTICHOKE.— Cpiara. 
 
 The artichoke is a perennial from the south of Europe, 
 which was cultivated in England as early as the year 1580. 
 It is naturally a marine plant, and has been greatly improved 
 by domestication. The botanical name, according to Colu- 
 mella, IS dei-tved from tlie Latin word tinere, because the an* 
 cients were accustomed to apply ashes to the land in which 
 the plant was grown. It resembles a gigantic thistle, and its 
 flower-heads, before blooming, have somewhat the appearance 
 of a small pine-apple, at which time they are highly prized on 
 European tables, particularly by the French. Tiiere are 
 two varieties, viz : — tlie Oval green or French (C. scolymus), — • 
 and the Red or Globe (C. hortensis). The latter lias a purple 
 head, and is generally most esteemed ; but the first has the 
 advantages of greater hardihood and productiveness. 
 
 CuLTORE. — The artichoke is propagated by seeds, or by 
 suckers fi'oin old roots. It flourishes best in a soil which is 
 deep, light and rich ; dry in winter, but somewhat moist in 
 the summer season. The Situation should be open, and free 
 from the influence of trees. 
 
 Wlien you wish to raise seedlings, you may sow as soon 
 as the frost leaves the ground in spring. One ounce of seed 
 8 
 
86 GAUDENER'S TEXT^BOOK. 
 
 Trill produce about six hundred plants. Sow in drills one foot 
 apart, and two inches deep. When the stems are an inch 
 high, they may be thinned out to distances of ten inches in the 
 drill. Keep the ground light, and free of weeds, by the oc^ 
 casional use of the hoe. At the approach of cold weather, 
 protect the bed by a covering of litter, and in the following 
 spring, remove the plants to their permanent location, in the 
 manner directed for suckers. 
 
 The suckers are afforded by the old roots, early in spring. 
 They are tit for transplanting when eight or ten inches in 
 height. After the ground for a bed has been selected, it 
 should be spaded deeply, and manured with good rotten 
 dung, sea-weed, salt, or anything of a saline character. Slip 
 the young shoots from the parent root, and reject all that are 
 tough and woody. Those only should be selected for a plan- 
 tation, which are tender, with a general appearance of healtli, 
 and having many fibrous roots attached. The loose outside 
 leaves ought to be pulled off, so that the heart can be seen. 
 If the shoots have been for some -time exposed to the air, they 
 are much benefited by being placed in water for three or four 
 hours before planting. They may then be set out by the dib* 
 ble, in ro-Ws three by four feet apart, witli about half their 
 length below the surface. They ought to be watered every 
 evening until they become firmly established, and subse* 
 quently during times of drought; by which means, the size 
 and succulency of the edible parts will be much increased. 
 
 The only cultivation needed during the spring and summer, 
 is to keep the soil clean and mellow, as Well as to apply water 
 in dry weather. Under such treatment, a few heads for use 
 may be expected between August and November, although m 
 subsequent years the maturity of the crop will conmience 
 much earlier in the season. In addition to the principal head, 
 there will be several smaller ones on the lower part of each 
 stem ; but, if the quality of the produce be more regarded 
 than its quantity, these lower buds should be removed when 
 
DICTIONARY. 87 
 
 quite young. The head is permitted to grow until the scales 
 spread, and tlie flower seems about to open. The stem must 
 then be cut off close to the ground, so as to encourage a new 
 growth of suckers before winter. 
 
 Although apparently possessing a hardy constitution, this 
 vegetable is very sensitive to the frost, requiring winter pro- 
 tection in the northern states. In order that the roots may 
 strengthen themselves as much as possible, this protection may 
 with propriety be delayed until there is a prospect of hard 
 frost — say in November or December, according to the season. 
 Cut away all the decayed leaves, with care not to injure the 
 young growth. Then dig over the sui'face soil, and draw it 
 up into a kind of ridge along each row of plants, in such a 
 manner that ilut'ir hearts will be clear. An application of dung 
 before this process of earthing up, sometimes causes the shoots 
 to decay. In all severe weather, the plants ought to be shel- 
 tered by a layer of leaves, branches or coarse litter. 
 
 When spring opens, all danger of hard frost being passed, 
 and the young buds having faudy started, the litter or other 
 protection is to be removed, and the ridges levelled. Make a 
 selection of the suckers for new plantations, and, as they will 
 not be wanted until they are eight or ten inches in height, they 
 may be suffered to remain on the roots, together with two or 
 three of the strongest shoots, which are to be left for heading. 
 All other shoots, and every bud, must be removed by a knife, 
 or by the simple pressui-e of the thumb and linger, .Dig the 
 ground thoroughly, and mix with it a quantity of good rotten 
 manure, fresh sea- weed or salt. As soon as the suckers in- 
 tended for transplanting acquire sufficient size, they may be 
 taken up and treated in the manner before described. 
 
 An artichoke bed seldom continues in perfection for a 
 longer time than six years; after that period the flower heads 
 become gradually smaller and less succulent. For which 
 reason, and because it so happens that the first cutting season 
 of young plants commences about the time wh.cn the old 
 
88 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 stocks cease bearing, many gardeners make a new plantation 
 every spring, whereby fine heads for the table may be ob- 
 tained from June to November. 
 
 For seed, — select some of the best heads, and permit them 
 to flower. To prevent water settling in the expanded calyx, 
 the stalk must be somewliat bent over, by being tied to a 
 small stake. The seed will be ripe in the fall. Gather it 
 ■when dry ; rub it out of the husk ; and store it in a cool, dry 
 apartment. Its vegetative power may be depended upon for 
 at least three years. 
 
 Use. — As a vegetable, the artichoke is wholesome, but, 
 probably, not very nourishing. It is used in various ways. In 
 Italy, the young tender heads are eaten as a salad, with oil, 
 salt and pepper. The edible parts are the receptacle of the 
 flower, called the "bottom," and the fleshy substance on the 
 bottom of the calyx scales. In England, the whole head is 
 usually boiled plain, and the scales are pulled off at the table, 
 one or two at a time, dipped in butter and pepper, and stripped 
 of their fleshy part by the teeth. The stalks are eaten in 
 France and Germany, after having been boiled and pickled. 
 The flowers have the property of rennet in curdling milk, and 
 the juice of the leaves and stalks, when prepared with bis- 
 muth, imparts a permanent gold color to wool ; and, when 
 mixed with an equal quantity of white wine, is said to have 
 been successful in the cure of the dropsy. 
 
 To boil. — Scrape the artichokes, and put them into boiling 
 water, with an allowance of a tablespoonful of salt to every 
 two dozen heads. In about two hours' time they will become 
 quite tender, when they may be taken from the fire, and sea- 
 soned with butter and salt. 
 
 To pickle. — Soak the artichokes in salt antl water for sever- 
 al days. Drain them, and afterwards rub off all the outside 
 skin. To one gallon of vinegar, add one tablespoonful oi 
 alum, and a teacupful of salt ; and turn it over the artichokes 
 
DICTIONARY, 
 
 89 
 
 wlieii it is scalding hot. After remaining a week, it should 
 be drawn off, scalded, and then returned : the process being 
 repeated, at intervals of six or seven days, mitil the heads ap- 
 pear to be thorouglily pickled. 
 
 Artichoke (Jerusalem).— >See JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. 
 ASPARAGUS. — Asparagus officinalis. 
 
 A well known perennial, the young shoots of which are 
 highly esteemed as a culinary vegetable. It grows wild in 
 great luxuriance on sandy plains near the sea ; and is found 
 indigenous in Great Britain, as well as on the saline steppes of 
 Russia and Poland. In this natural state, however, the stem 
 is usually not thicker than a goose quill, and only a few 
 inches in heiglit, whilst the roots penetrate to but little depth. 
 One of the most interesting paragraphs in its history, is the 
 account of the gradual enlargement in its size and tlie im- 
 provement in its quality, wliich have been effected Avholly by 
 the process of cultivation. The original plant could not now 
 be recognized by any other person than the botanist. It was 
 raised by the ancient Romans with such success, that we are 
 told three of the slioots sometnnes weiglied as much as a 
 pound. At the present day, it is considered one of our great- 
 est delicacies, and is particularly valuable on account of the 
 early season in wliich it comes forward for the table. Of the 
 many varieties to be obtamed from nurserymen, tliose best 
 adapted to general culture are — the Purple-top, and the 
 Green-top, so named from the color of the shoots. Much has 
 been said in favor of several new kinds, but it is believed 
 that they are indebted for their extraordinary size chiefly to 
 skilful management, — deprived of which, tliey would soon re- 
 sume their original cliaracter. A good soil, plenty of manure, 
 and careful culture, are tlie only requisites to success. 
 8=1^ 
 
90 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 Culture. — The seed — one ounce being sufficient for nine 
 or ten hundred plants, — is to be thinly sown, in drills sixteen 
 inches apart, early in the spring — say from about the middle 
 of March to the beginning of April, due regard being had to 
 the forwardness of the season. If you have no drill-rake with 
 the teeth set at that distance apart, you can mark out the bed 
 ■with the rake intended for eight inch drills, and in sowing 
 pass over every other one. Cover the seed about an inch and 
 a half deep. If the weather continue dry, the ground ought 
 to be covered with straw or brush duriug the middle of tlie 
 day, until germination takes place. Or, water may be 
 frequently applied in small quantities, unil the same end is 
 accomplished. When the young plants are a few inches 
 high, they must be thinned out to distances of six or eight 
 inches in the drill. Tlie surface should be kept open and free 
 from weeds. By the middle or latter part of November, re- 
 move the withered stalks, by cutting them down close to the 
 ground, and then cover the bed with two inches of rotten 
 dung, overlaid by coarse stable litter. This protection not only 
 Baves the roots from being injured by the frost, but secures a 
 vigorous growth during the next summer. 
 
 In tlie following spring, preparations should be early made 
 for transplanting. This will be performed m March or April, 
 just after the buds start, and before they are f;ir advanced. 
 Plants may remain in the seed bed for one, two and three years, 
 but they seldom succeed when moved after that. period. We 
 think that, all things considered, the best time for the opera- 
 tion is when they are one year old, and here give directions 
 based upon that opinion. The mast suitable soil is a fresh, 
 sandy loam, deep and mellow, but lying on a dry substratum. 
 The situation should be open to the sun, and free from tlie 
 injurious influences of trees or large shrubs. For a family of 
 moderate size, a surfiice of eight or nine square rods is gen- 
 erally thought sufficiently large, as it can be made to afford 
 one hundred shoots every day through the cutting season. 
 
DICTIONARY. 91 
 
 Spade it thoroughly to the depth of tliree feet, and intimately 
 mix with it a large quantity of well rotted dung or sea-weed. 
 It will be recollected that the natural asparagu=i grown on a 
 poor, sandy beach, is a very. different vegetable from that pro- 
 duced in a highly cultivated garden ; indeed, tlie productive- 
 ness and sweetness of the shoots depend altogether upon the 
 fertility of the soil. In addition to this application of dung, it 
 ■will be a good way to add a\)out fifty pounds of salt to a 
 bed of the size above mentioned. It has been well observed 
 by some writer, that this preparation of the ground in the out- 
 set, is of more importance than the after-management. After 
 being thus spaded and manured, the plat may be laid out into 
 beds four feet wide, with alleys of eighteen inches or two feet. 
 
 "When the plants discover the first indications of growth, 
 take them up carefully from the seed bed by means of a fork, 
 and suffer them to be exposed to the air as little as possible. 
 They may be placed ia a small basket of sand, and covered 
 witli a mat. The delicate, fibrous roots are apt to get entan- 
 gled if handled roughly, and thereby cause the loss of much 
 time in effecting a separation without doing them injury. 
 Stretch the line lengthwise of the bed, about one foot from the 
 edge, and op^n with the spade a F'-shaped trench, six or eight 
 inches deep. Tlie side next the line should be nearly per- 
 pendicular, against which the plants are to be set, at distances 
 of twelve or fourteen inches, with the crowns about two inches 
 below the surface. Draw the roots out regularly in the shape 
 of a fan, and steady them in their places by a little dirt, until 
 tlie trench can be filled up by the rake. After one row is 
 planted, and the ground has been smoothly levelled, open a 
 second trench in the same manner, a foot distant from the first. 
 The bed will thus hold three rows of plants. It is a good 
 way to place them in the quincuncial form, thus : — 
 
 TrP tF TJ* T^ ^ 
 
 ^ ^ ^ -7? ^ ^ 
 
92 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 Rake the surface even, and bring all the small stones into the 
 alleys, for removal in the wheelbarrow. In a dry season, 
 water may be frequently applied with advantage. By an 
 occasional use of the hoe, you will prevent the admission of 
 weeds, which, in additit)n to their unsightly appearance, are 
 of decided injur}'' to the I'oots. Keep the edges of the bed 
 trimmed even ; and never tread upon it, as its narrow width 
 renders that unnecessary. For economy of room, a few cab- 
 bages may be grown in the alleys ; but lettuce and radish 
 seed ought never to be sown among the asparagus plants, to 
 rob tlie soil of what rightfully belongs to them alone. 
 
 At the approach of winter, when their natural season of 
 growth is over, the tops will turn white, and they may then 
 be cut down close to the ground. Care should be observed 
 not to do this while they are a: all green, because in that case 
 the roots are likely to sprout again. The dead stalks, and all 
 weeds — if any there be found, can either be gathered into a 
 pile and burned, or else be taken to the compost heap or pig 
 pen, to be subsequently returned to the ground in the shape 
 of manure. The bed ought now to receive a thin top-dress- 
 ing of good, rotten dung, a'>:>ut three inches thick, together 
 with a covering of leaves, litter, or even a little rich soil. Tliis 
 is the only way to ensure a healtliy growth of the roots in the 
 coming year. 
 
 In March or April of the following spring, as soon as the 
 frost leaves the ground, and before the buds are expected to 
 start, remove the covering, and dig the surface of the bed 
 with the fork, in order to mix the old manure with the soil, 
 as well as to admit heat and air to the roots. Tlie tines of 
 the fork ought not to bo inserted to a greater depth than three 
 or four inches, lest the crowns of the roots be injured. This 
 having been properly done, the next thing is to rake off the 
 heavy clods and stones into the alleys. Owing to its marine 
 character, the asparagus plant receives decided benefit from 
 frequent and liberal applications of common salt. It is best 
 
DICTIOXARY. 93 
 
 applied at this season of the year, spread thinly upon the 
 surface of the bed, and then raked under. A smaller quan- 
 tity may be given some two or three times afterwards during 
 the sunimer. Many gardeners recommend the use of brine of 
 the strength of sea- water, to be sprinkled upon the ground 
 every fortnight or three weeks through the growing season. 
 There is but little danger of making the ground too rich ; 
 some caution must be observed, however, in the application of 
 salt, as by its injudicious use several fine plantations are said 
 to have been destroyed. In our own garden, all that we dare 
 do, is to sprinkle on just enough to make the ground look 
 ■white, as though a light snow had fallen. 
 
 This course of management for the spring and winter 
 dressings, must be pursued annually so long as the bed re- 
 mains. In summer, the only culture necessary is to keep the 
 soil in good tilth. In dry seasons, a regular application of 
 ■water at stated intervals will prove of decided benefit, secur- 
 ing a vigorous and uninterrupted growth. After the first 
 year, the alleys should not be dug up by the spade or hoe, 
 as they then contain a large quantity of the ro(its, injury to 
 which would seriously affect the plants in the outside lows of 
 the beds to which they belong. The foliage is sometimes at- 
 tacked by beetles ; the only remedy seems to be committing 
 to the tire the parts -which are affected. No portion of the 
 crop ought to be gathered previous to the fourth season after 
 the sowing of the seed. In the first three summers, the stalks 
 must be allowed to grow up at will, in order that the roots 
 may strengthen themselves, so as after that time to yield an 
 annual supply of sprouts for the table. Cutting may commence 
 in the fourth spring, -when the shoots are about four inches 
 liigh, tlie top buds being close and firm. Scrape away a little 
 dirt from each shoot, and cut it off in a slanting direction, 
 about three inches below the surface, by means of a narrow, 
 sharp-pointed knife. Particular care must be taken not to 
 wound the young buds, which are pushing themselves towards 
 
94 
 
 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 the light. Whenever, as will generally be the case with young 
 plantations, the roots throw up shoots of au infeiior size, 
 the cutting season should be immediately discontinued ; or, 
 otherwise, the roots will be weakened, and rendered imfit for a 
 generous crop in the succeeding spring. On no consideration 
 whatever, should the cutting season be extended beyond the 
 20th of June. A healthy bed, under good management, will 
 continue to bear abundantly for ten or twelve years, after which 
 time the value of the crop generally declines, in quality as 
 well as in quantity. Instances are recorded, however, of 
 plantations continuing productive for lialf a century. Market 
 gardeners are accustomed to take roots which are six or eight 
 years old, and use them for forcing ; so that to keep them- 
 selves constantly supplied with bearing plants, they are 
 obliged to make a new bed every year. For small gardens, 
 we should not recommend making a bed oftener than once ill 
 six years, or sooner than four years before it is intended to 
 break up the old one. 
 
 Our plan required that we should give full directions for 
 the culture of aspariigus from the seed. We, however, advise 
 the reader who is about starting a new garden, or trying as- 
 paragus for the first time, that he shall purchase two or three 
 year old roots from a nurseryman. This will give him a crop 
 one or two years sooner than he could obtain it from the seed. 
 The mode of planting, and the subsequent cultivation, will be 
 m every particular as above described. 
 
 Forcing. — With marketmen it is a matter of profit, and 
 with amateurs of curiosity or rivalry, to produce asparagus out 
 of its natural season ; this must be accomplished by artificial 
 heat. Tlie first plantation may be made iji the middle of au- 
 tumn, and others every four weeks afterward until the middle 
 of March; by which means, a continued supply ofsiiootscan be 
 obtained from December up to the time of the first cutting in 
 the open ground. The process is simple and easily practised. 
 The materials for the hut-bed should first undergo fermenta- 
 
DICTIONARY. 95 
 
 tion, that vrlien put under a frame, the heat may be gentle and 
 regular ; because if it be at all violent, it is apt to bring the 
 plants up ^veak and spindling. Dung may be advantageously 
 mixed with ashes or tan, which mixture, by ensuring mildness 
 and regularity in the heat, is better than dung alone. The soil 
 should be a good, mellow loam, and about six inches deep. 
 Tlie gardener must not dream of 'putting in the roots, until the 
 temperature of the bed is sufficiently reduced to prevent all 
 danger of the mould being scorched. The maximum heat ought 
 not to exceed 65®. 
 
 The best roots for planting are those fi'om open air beds 
 about six years old, and which are perfectly vigorous and 
 healthy. Draw a little trench against one side of the framC) 
 and set the roots therein about as near together as they will 
 stand, with the crowns all at the same height. Another trench, 
 about one inch' distant from the first, is to be filled in tlie same 
 inanner ; and so proceed until the whole frame be occupied, or 
 the supply of plants be exliausted. In this way, a single sash 
 frame will hold an almost incredible number of plants. 
 Then cover the whole with three inches of good soil, and 
 apply water freely every three or four days. For the ad' 
 mission of fresh air, as well as for the escape of rank vapor, 
 the glass should be raised an inch or two, whenever the 
 U'eather will permit, and there is no danger of too great a re* 
 duction of heat in the bed. This is very important, and must 
 on no account whatsoever be neglected. The proper temper* 
 aturo to be preserved, is a medium of 60° ;— -not below 50° at 
 night, nor above 65® at any time. The heat can be revived, if 
 necessary, by linings of fresh dung. In cold nights, the plants 
 will require the protection of mats or coarse litter, laid upon 
 the glass to exclude frost. In the course of two or three weeks, 
 the shoots will be of a suitable size for use, and the roots will 
 probably continue productive, for about one month. Cutting 
 th^m with, a knife is not advisable ; the fingers can easily ba 
 
9(5 ■ GARDENER'S TEXT -BOOK. 
 
 pushed through the soil, so as to break off the shoot at the cro\^n, 
 without injuring its neighbors. 
 
 For scad, — you must select some of the earhest and finest 
 shoots, — those having large, close head?,— and allow them to 
 run up without being cut. As some of the number v,'ill prob- • 
 ably be unproductive, more must be left than at first would 
 seem necessary to secure an abundance of seed. Support the 
 stems by stakes, Vvdiicb, it may be worth while to inform some 
 bunglers, need not be driven through the crowns of the roots. 
 In autumn, when the berries are ripe, they should be stored 
 in a dry place until wanted for sowing ; unless the seed is to 
 be sent away for sale, in which case the berries must be left 
 several days in a vessel of water, for the pulp to decay, before 
 the seed is washed out. 
 
 Use. — The esculent parts are the tender shoots, which are to 
 be gathered soon after they peep above the surface of the bed. 
 They are much esteemed on every table where they may be 
 found, although not considered very nutritious. The plant 
 possesses some diuretic qualities, which, it is said, render the 
 shoots unfit for persons troubled with the diabetes,v>'hile of great 
 benefit to such as are suffering from the gravel, or complaints 
 of a kindred nature. Cobbett says, in his American Gardener, 
 " Were I writing to Nova Scotians, I otight not to omit to give 
 instructions as to which end of the asparagus the eater ought 
 to use, for I know a gentlemen of that country, who being at 
 New-York, on his first trip from home, began eating at the 
 stem in place of the point." 
 
 7(> cook. — In the first place, cut off the tough, white part of 
 the stalks, in such manner tliat they may be of nearly equal 
 length. Put them into small btindles, and boil them from fif- 
 teen to twenty minutes according to their age. The addition of 
 a quarter-teaspoonful of salaratus to three quarts of the water, 
 will preserve the fresh, green color of the asparagus. A little 
 .salt should be put in the stew pan. Toast a large slice ol 
 
DICTIONARY. 97 
 
 bread, and lay it in the bottom of a vegetable dish. Then 
 moisten the toast with a little water from the stew pan, and 
 butter it. Wlien the asparagus is taken up and drained, it is 
 to be laid on the toast, and the strings removed. Serve with 
 melted butter, and salt to the taste. 
 
 BALM. — Melissa officinaUs. 
 
 A hardy perennial, having a fragrant smell, and a native of 
 Switzerland. The name Melissa is from the Greek word for 
 honey, which attracts large numbers of bees to the flowers. It 
 is cultivated principally for medicinal purposes ; and only a few 
 plants are required in a common-sized garden. 
 
 Culture. — It may be propagated by seed, by offsets of the 
 roots, or by slips of the young shoots. The first two modes 
 can be practised either in spring or in autumn, but slips are 
 generally found to succeed best when they have been set out 
 in the latter part of spring. Place them first in a shady bor- 
 der, where they may take root, and remove them to their final 
 location in the following autumn. They should stand about 
 ten mches from each other. Tlie balm is best pleased with a 
 poor, friable soil, and needs no manure. About the only atten- 
 tion required on the part of the gardener, is to prevent its ex- 
 tending itself too widely. Tlie decayed leaves and stalks, how- 
 ever, ought to be cleared away, and the soil of the bed loosened 
 by the hoe, at the close of each season. 
 
 Use. — Formerly, very extravagant notions were held, in re- 
 lation to the medicinal virtues of the plant, but its importance 
 is now rated much lower. By distillation it yields a fragrant 
 oil, which, when diluted with water, proves grateful and benefi- 
 cial in ca=es of fever, and to persons of a lax, debilitated habit. 
 A strong infusion of the young shoots is also used for the same 
 purposes. For drying, gather the stalks when the flowers are 
 
 9 
 
98 GARDENER'S TEXT -BOOK. 
 
 about to open, and when perfectly free from dew or moisture. 
 Place them in the shade, or in an oven, Avhere they may dry 
 rapidly ; and, after they become cool, press them into pack- 
 ages, to be covered with white paper, and hung away in a cool, 
 dry apartment 
 
 BASIL.— Ocymimi basiliciwu 
 
 There are two species of the basil, of which the Sweet' 
 scented [Ocijmicin basllicum,) is most usually cultivated for culi- 
 nary purposes. Though introduced as early as 1573, it has 
 aot been long' used. It is a fragrant, aromatic annual, with an 
 odor somewhat resembling that of cloves, and came originally 
 from the East Indies. 
 
 CoLTUaE.-— The plants require a fertile, mellov/ soil, which 
 >3 free from the shade of trees or buildings. The seed may be 
 pown ill a warm., sheltered border, about the middle of April ; 
 or upon a small hot-bed, somewhere about the first of April ; 
 the plants to be removed to the open compartment in a month 
 or six weeks afrerwards. They ought to stand six or eight 
 inches apart, in rows one foot distant from each other. Basil 
 makes quite a pretty edging for the large beds. During the 
 summer, the ground ought to be occasionally stirred with the 
 hoe, and kept clean of weeds ; by which trifling attention, the 
 health and vigor of the plants Avill be greatly benefited. In 
 dry Weather, frequent sprinklings of water are found of advan- 
 tage. Bixsil is rather tender, and liable to injury from early 
 frosts, for which reason the winter supply ought to be cut in 
 autumn, before the approach of cold weather. It can be tied 
 in sm.all bundles, and hung up in an airy garret to dry. 
 
 Fo7'seed,—Aet some of the healthiest looking plants remain 
 uncut. The flowers open about August, and the seed will 
 ripen before the middle of autumn. 
 
DICTIONARY. 99 
 
 Use. — Basil is considered an important pot-herb in the 
 Frencli cuisine. From their agreeable, spicy flayer, the young 
 leaves are employed in many different kinds of highly season- 
 ed dishes — such as soups and sauces. They are also put in 
 salads, and the peculiar flavor of mock-turtle soup is chiefly 
 owing to their presence. In England and this country, how- 
 ever, tlie plant does not maintain such a high reputation, and 
 it cannot be considered a regular tenant of the kitchen garden. 
 
 BEAN.—FJiaseolus. 
 
 Commonly called the Kidney, or French bean, in contra- 
 distinction to the Encjlish Horse bean, which is of quite in- 
 ferior quality in this country. The botanical name is derived 
 from the resemblance in the shape of the pods to a kind of 
 ship, supposed to have been invented at Phaselis, a town oi 
 Pamphylia. It is considered to be a native of India. There 
 are two species, viz : the Dwarf and the Pole, being named in 
 accordance with their peculiar habits of growth. Each kind 
 deserves a separate notice. 
 
 The Dwaaf, or Bush Bean. — P. Vulgaris. 
 
 Seedsmen enumerate many varieties, some of which are 
 scarcely worth cultivatioa Yet gardeners differ so much in 
 their preferences, that it is almost impossible for us to pre- 
 sent such a select list as will give satisfaction to every reader. 
 In passing an opinion upon any selection of varieties, allow- 
 ance must always be made for differences of soil and situation, 
 as well as for other natural causes over which the cultivator 
 can liave no control. "We believe the following kinds, named 
 in nearly their order of succession for the table, to be the 
 most valuable for small gardens : — tlie Early Mohawk, — the 
 Early Yellow Six-Weeks, — the Early St. Valentine, — the 
 China Red Eye, — the Roh Roy, — the Brown Valentine, — and 
 
100 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 the Royal White Kidney Dioarf. Nearly all of tliese have 
 pynonjms ; for instance, the Brown Valentine is known to be 
 tlie Late Valentine, — the Refugee, — and the Thousand-to-one. 
 The Early Mohawk is very hardy, and is generally planted 
 for the earliest crop. A modern and but httle known variety, 
 is one called the Tartle Soup ; it is considered superior to the 
 ordinary bush beans, on account of the tenderness and excel- 
 lent flavor of its pods, and the long time which they continue 
 fit for use. It bids fair to supersede many of the old favorites. 
 
 CcLTuaE. — The Kidney bean prefers a light, rich soil, 
 founded on a dry substratum ; indeed, anything is better than 
 a clay of a "wet, tenacious character. For summer crops, it 
 may be somewhat moist, but this quality is objectionable for 
 both early and late sowings. Being originally a native of a 
 ■warm climate, the seed is remarkably tender, and oftentimes, 
 for the want of a proper soil, decays without germinating, or 
 becomes a spindling and unfruitful plant. As the ground mast be 
 rich in order to yield abundantly, a good do^e of well rotted 
 manure should be applied broadcast, and spaded under, or else 
 put in the drills at the time of sowing. The first course is 
 much the best, and ought always to be followed where prac- 
 ticable. 
 
 Forcing — is often resorted to, for the earliest crop. The 
 hot-bed is of moderate size, and covered with eight or ten 
 inches of fine mould. After the rankness of the freshly pre- 
 pared dung has escapeji, and the heat becomes regular, the 
 seed may be thinly sown in drills ten inches apart. The proper 
 temperature to be observed is between 60° and *75° Fahr. 
 Fresh air must, however, b3 admitted freely at all times when 
 the weather will permit, while tepid water is to be applied 
 in moderate quantities every two or three days. The most 
 forward plants can, by the first of April, be remDved to a 
 warm, sheltered harder, where the protection of hand-glasses 
 or vine-shields is to be given them, at night and during cold 
 
DICTIONARY. lOj 
 
 davs. Tliey should be gradually accustomed to the change of 
 locality, as well as to the absence of artificial heat, lest by a 
 too sudden exposure to the chill air, both tliej and the culti- 
 vator's hopes be blasted at the same moment. 
 
 Planting in the open ground — may be commenced some 
 time between tlie middle of April and the first part of May, 
 after the ground has become warm, and the weather is appa- 
 rently settled. Tlie bean is very sensitive to cold, and the 
 earliest sowing is frequently destroyed by late frosts. For a 
 succession of crops, the sowing must be repeated every two 
 or three weeks until the beginning of August. After that 
 period, the cold frame, and subsequently the liot-bed, will be 
 again necessary. For the early and late crops, a dry, shel- 
 tered border is desirable. In this way, the table can be kept 
 constantly supplied for many months. Wi\o that is acquaint- 
 ed with the merits of the bean as an esculent, will not be 
 willing to make some extra exertion to secure so desirable a 
 result ? 
 
 Plant the seed one and a half inches deep, and two inches 
 apart, in drills two feet asunder. One quart of seed will thus 
 suflace for about two hundred and fifty feet of row. • When 
 the plants are three inches high, and again when about 
 to flower, draw the earth carefully up around their stems ; 
 which protects the roots from the enervating effects of heat 
 and drought. At all seasons of their growth, however, the 
 soil ought to be kept, by the frequent use of the hoe, free from 
 weeds, and open to the beneficial influences of the atmosphere. 
 
 The' Pole Beans. — P. Ibnensis et muitljiorus. 
 
 Sometimes these are called Runners, or Climbers. Of the 
 Phaseolus limensis there are tAvo varieties which have a hitdi 
 and well deserved reputation for the table, viz : the Green and 
 White Limas. The 6V^en is preferable on account of size ; but, 
 as regards the certainty and miiformity of a crop, the White 
 9* 
 
102 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 seems to have the advantage. They are both largely culti- 
 vated, especially in the vicinity of cities, where they will 
 always meet with a ready sale, both when green and when 
 dried for winter use. Of the Pliascolus multijlorus, which 
 was carried from South America to England in 1633, there 
 are the Scarlet Runner, — the Dutch Case-knife, — the Carolina 
 Sewec, (L'c. These are all excellent of their kind, but in this 
 country are generally ranked inferior to the popular Limas. 
 
 Culture. — As the pole beans are found even more tender 
 than the dwarfs, planting in the open ground must be delayed 
 still later, until all liability to rot, in consequence of cold, 
 damp weather, shall have passed. Gardeners pursue many 
 different modes of obtaining early plants. By some, the seed 
 is put into small pots, which are set upon a hot-bed, and al- 
 lowed to remam there until the stems are three inches high, 
 when, with the balls of dirt attached, they are placed in a 
 warm border. Others, however, put large sods upside down 
 in a shallow frame, and, with the spade, cut them into small 
 pieces Uke the squares of a chequer-board ; upon each piece a 
 single bean is planted, and removed to the open ground, as 
 soon as the weather is settled and the stem is of sufficient 
 size. Little advantage is gained by forwarding plants, be- 
 cause they are particularly liable to injury from a change of 
 position. For the family gardener, we think it much the best 
 policy to be patient until the earth becomes warm, and spring 
 seems to have really opened. 
 
 The proper time for the first sowing, is somewhere be- 
 tween the first part and the middle of May. Should the 
 season be remarkably early, perhaps the. last week of April 
 will be suitable. But the gardener must not be surprised, if 
 untoward weather destroy both the first and second plant- 
 ings. The soil should be mellow, rich, and in rather a 
 wai*m situation. Lay the ground out in hills — say three feet 
 apart each way, — as if for Indian corn, and put in the bottom 
 
DICTIONARY. 103 
 
 of each a liberal supply of old dung or compost. Tliey ought 
 to be three or four iuches above the average level. Plant five 
 ov six beans in a hill, and cover them about one inch deep. 
 One quai't of seed will supply in the neighborhood of three 
 hundred hills. A curious fact is stated in relation to the Li- 
 77ias, viz : that the eye should always be put downward, as 
 the seed rises out of the ground in that position ; in defect of 
 which, it often refuses to vegetate. Reduce the number of 
 plants to three in a hill, and, if that number be wanting, sow 
 again. When they are a few inches high, draw a little earth 
 around them as a support^ As soon as the runners start, it is 
 time to set the pole.s, wliich may be ten or twelve feet high, 
 and, for appearance' sake, ought to range accurately, and be 
 of a nearly uniform height Some of tlie runners will perhaps 
 be a little wayward, and require being brought back to the 
 poles. Use the hoe frequently ; there is nothing like keeping 
 the soil mellow andcleaa AVe have often raised good crops 
 in the hills with Indian corn, letting the vines run upon the 
 stalks. Nipping off the ends of the shoots, when the first blos- 
 soms begin to drop, accelerates the growth of the pods. 
 
 For seed, — the varieties should be kept distinct, as they are 
 very liable to hitermixture. Either sow expressly for the 
 purpose of raising seed, or else leave particular rows ungath- 
 ered. An excellent mode is, when gathering the crop, to leave 
 the best pods upon the bushes. Always select the earliest 
 and fiiiest looking, which, after being thoroughly ripened by 
 the sun, are to be pulled with the vines, and left for several 
 days in some dry place, that all tlieir moisture may escape. 
 Beat out the seed, and store it in a cool apartment 
 
 Use. — As an esculent, the bean is wholesome and nutri- 
 tious, well meriting tiie high favor in which it is universally 
 held. In proportion to its weight, it gives more nutriment, and 
 better supplies the place of animal food, than any of the ordi- 
 nary vegetables. One of its most valuable qualities, is the 
 ease with which it can be preserved for use in winter. In gath- 
 
104 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 ering for the kitchen, take those pods that are fleshy and ten- 
 der, as being then in the highest perfection. Pull them care- 
 fully, so that the smaller ones may not be prejudiced in their 
 growtbi. It must be the gardener's object, to render the vines 
 as prolific and long-lived as possible. 
 
 To boil String Beans. — Take off the strings, and cut the beans 
 into short pieces. Boil them with a little salt, from twenty to for- 
 ty minutes, according to their age, A little salaratus ia the pot^ 
 preserves their green color, and makes them more healthy. 
 They ought to be quite tender, before being taken from the fire. 
 Add salt and butter, and then carry immediately to the table. 
 
 Shell Beans — are cooked in the same way, either with or 
 without the salaratus. 
 
 To bake White Beans. — Pick them over carefully, and at 
 evening put them to soak in a slightly warm place. Put a 
 quart of water to a pii:it of beans. Tlie next morning, rinse 
 them well in two or three waters, and boil them for ten or fif- 
 teen minutes ; at the end of which time, take them up with a 
 skimmer, and lay them in a baking dish. Put in the centre a 
 piece of salt pork, having the rind scored, with the top just 
 exposed ; and then pour in cold water, so that it n^ay be 
 seen at the sides of the dish. Bake them in a hot oven for 
 three hours; and the time may be extended to six hours with 
 advantage. 
 
 For piekling, — gather the beans while small and tender. 
 Keep them in salt and water, which should be changed every 
 five or six days, until you have a sufScient quantity. Then 
 scald them with hot salt and water, and, when they become 
 cool, turn on hot vinegar, spiced with pepper-corns, mace, Ac. 
 
 To preserve Lima Beans. — lliey may be dried on the floor 
 cf an airy garret, or put with layers of salt in a k^, to be 
 covered tight, and kept in a cool place. Before being cooked, 
 they should be soaked over night, and boiled with a little sala- 
 ratus. They will then be as tender and palatable, as though 
 just picked from the vines. 
 
DICTIONARY. 104 
 
 BEET.— Beta. 
 
 It would appear tliat the beet originated on tbe seacoaSt 
 of soutliorn Europe, where it may at tlie present time be found 
 in a wild state. It was introduced into England by one of the 
 Tradescants, about the year 1656, and was at first cultivated 
 under the name of Beet-rave, or Beet-radish. The botanical 
 name is said to liave been derived, from tlie resemblance which 
 the seed vessel, when swelling, bears to J2 [Beta) the second 
 character of the Greek alphabet. 
 
 The genus Beta comprehends several biennial species, of 
 which the principal are the B. cicla, and the B. vulgaris. The 
 first named is cultivated for its large stalks, and the white, 
 solid midrib of its succulent leaves. They are wholesome, with 
 a pleasant, sweet taste. The green part of the leaves is boiled 
 and eaten like spinach, while the stalks and midribs are dressed 
 like asparagus. The principal variety is the Swiss Chard, or 
 Sea-kale-beet It produces abundantly, and is one of the 
 chief vegetables of the agricultural laborers in Germany, 
 France and Switzerland. We are in hopes to see it generally 
 introduced into our gardens, as we believe it well worthy of at- 
 tentioa The second species, the B. vulgaris, is distinguished 
 by a large, fleshy root, which is both palatable and nutritious. 
 The varieties are numerous ; tliose considered best are — the 
 Blood Turnip-rooted, excellent for summer use ; the Early 
 Long Blood, which matures next in order, and is raised in large 
 quantities for market ; the London Blood, a new kind that is 
 acquiring a good reputation ; and the noted Mangold Wurzel, 
 which, although principally used for farm animals, is when 
 young and tender very good for the table. 
 
 CuLTUEE. — All tap-rooted vegetables require a rich, deep 
 soil, and this seems particularly necessary for a successful 
 growth of beets. As soon, therefore, as the ground is opened 
 in spring, it should be spaded or trenched from a foot to eigh- 
 
106 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 teen inches deep, and enriched by a liberal supply of old ma- 
 nure. When danger of severe frost is over, the beds may be 
 marked out into drills, sixteen or twenty inches apart, for the 
 early crops. Scatter the seed rather thickly, — an ounce being 
 sufficient for near one rod of ground, — and cover it about an 
 inch deep. It is better to thin the plants when they stand too 
 close together in the drills, than to be obliged to fill up vacant 
 spaces by transplanting. The seed is most commonly steeped 
 in warm water, for two or three days before the time of sow- 
 ing, so as to soften the hard outer skin, and thereby facilitate 
 the process of germination. If the soil be light and dry, press 
 it down hard upon the seed, by means of a roller, or by walk- 
 ing upon a long board laid across tlie drills. 
 
 For the autumn and winter crops, sow later iri the season, — 
 say from the middle of May to the last of June, — as the pro- 
 duce will be found better suited for the table, and will keep 
 better through the winter, than that of the early sowing:^ 
 Where the roots acquire their full growth before cold weather 
 comes on, they soon lose their agreeable succulency, and ofteiv 
 times decay before the winter is half gone. 
 
 As soon as the plants are out of danger, their leaves being 
 well advanced, they must be thinned out in the drill, — at first, 
 to distances of four inches, and subsequently, if lai'ge roots be 
 wanted, to distances of eight inches. If there be any vacant 
 spaces in the rows, they ought to be filled at this time ; although 
 experience has shown that the beet succeeds best when not 
 transplanted. The subsequent culture is simple, being merely 
 to stir the ground often, and keep it free from weeds. Every 
 hours labor upon the bed will increase the quantity of the 
 produce, and add greatly to its value for culinary purposea 
 
 The roots ought to be taken up, as soon as vegetation is 
 checked by the uppi'oach of frost. Dig them carefully, be- 
 cause they will bleed much, if broken or cut. After a few 
 hours' exposure to the air, in order that any surplus moisture 
 may be evaporated, they can be stored for win.ter use. Cut 
 
DICTIONARY. 107 
 
 oiT the tops at least an inch above the crowns, and either feed 
 them to the cattle, or put them in the compost heap. The roots 
 may tlien be carried to the cellar, and piled up against the wall, 
 with alternate layers of sand or dry ea^-th ; or they may be 
 Iieaped up in the open air, with layers of earth, in the shape of 
 a pyramid, or the roof of a house, and then covered with straw 
 and earth for protection against frost,— a small hole being left 
 at the top of the mound for tlie escape of steam, and a trench 
 being dug around it to prevent water coming in contact with 
 the roots. 
 
 For seed — In the spring, plant out a few of the finest look- 
 ing roots, such as are smooth and well-shaped, and, during the 
 summer, keep them free from the company of weeds. It may 
 6e necessary to support the stems by tying them to stakes. 
 Gather the seed as soon as it becomes ripe. 
 
 Use. — Apart from its value in an agricultural point of 
 view, the beet root is considered indispensable on many tables. 
 When of good size, it is t-euder, sweet and wholesome. . It pos- 
 sesses some very slight medicinal qualities ; and although very 
 tiourisliing, if it be eaten in great quantity, is said to be injuri- 
 ous to tlie stonaacb. It can be substituted for malt in the manu- 
 facture of beer, wliile the white varieties are largely cultivated 
 in France for the manufacture of sugar. The leaves grown on 
 a rich soil, afford considerable pure nitre. For the table, the 
 beet is used in a variety of ways. The young, tender tops are 
 sometimes cooked in the same manner as spinach ; while the 
 root is put in salads, pickled in cold vinegar, or stewed with 
 onions. 
 
 To pickle, — Do not cut or scrape the roots before boiling ; 
 ■which would cause the juice to run out, and render them in- 
 sipid. It is only necessary to wash them clean. In summer, 
 they will boil in about an hour ; but, in whiter, double that 
 time will be required ; allowance, of course, bemg always 
 
108 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 made for difference in size. After tliey have been boiled, cut 
 them up in slices, and cover with cold spiced-vinegar. 
 
 BORAGE. — Borago officinalis. 
 
 Originally from Aleppo, this weed has become naturalized 
 in many parts of the world. It gi-ows about two feet high, 
 with broad leaves, and handsome flowers. It was formerly 
 much esteemed, but in most modern gardens has given way to 
 more valuable plants. 
 
 Culture. — Tlie most suitable soil is one that is bt)th light 
 and dry. It need not be very rich, because the pleasant flavor 
 of the leaves and flowers would be injured by a rank luxuri- 
 ance of growth. The seed may be sown in April, or, indeed, at 
 almost any time during the spring and summer. Sow in 
 shallow drills six inches apart, and afterwards thin out the 
 plants to the same distances. After the operation of trans- 
 planting, water must be applied in moderate quantities until 
 the roots become firmly established. 
 
 For Seed. — Some plants which have survived the winter, 
 must be allowed to perfect themselves. Gather the stalks, 
 and let the seed be perfectly dry before attempting to nib it 
 out. 
 
 Use. — The tender leaves are in some places put in salads 
 or cooked like spinach. The flowers are occasionally used to 
 ornament a salad dish, or to flavor a cup of negus. In ancient 
 times, many wonderful virtues were ascribed to borage, and, 
 even now, by the ignorant it is ranked high in the list of medic- 
 inal herbs, 
 
 BORECOLE. — Brassica oleracea, var. 
 Borecole, — sometimes known under the name of Kale, — w 
 
DICTIONARY. 109 
 
 but one of the many varieties of the celebrated cabbage fam- 
 ily. It seems to be distinguished by a large, open head, and 
 generally by curled or wrinkled leaves. It has a peculiarly 
 strong, liardy constitution. It is thought very valuable for 
 cultivation hi the Southern states, because it requires little or 
 no protection during the winter months. The principal sub- 
 varieties are — the Scotch Kale, — the Green Curled^ — theCasar- 
 ian Kale, — and the Thousand-headed Cabbage. 
 
 Culture.— Sow the seed — one ounce of which will furnish 
 four thousand plants, or about that number, — during the first 
 p"ai't of May ; but not earlier, unless the season be quite for- 
 ward. Transplant in July into rich, mellow soil. For more 
 particular directions, the reader is requested to refer to the arti- 
 cle on Cabbage, which is cultivated in the same manner. For 
 preservation in the open air through the cold weather, the 
 plants should be set quite close together in a trench, with the 
 earth drawn up to the lower leaves, and covered with straw or 
 litter ; wlien a head is wanted, it is only necessary to remove 
 the covering, and cut off the stalk with a sharp knife, leaving 
 the stump in the ground, wliere it will produce fine greens iiL 
 the following spring. 
 
 For need, — leave some of the best heads in the bed where' 
 grown, or else transplant, during open weather, into raws 
 three feet apart each way. It is the nature of this family of 
 vegetables to intermix freely, and run into hundrecb of sub-, 
 varieties; care must, therefore, be taken to preveat different, 
 kinds flowering at the same time in the vicinity of each other. 
 
 Use. — Borecole is considered very delicate, and is much im- 
 proved by an exposure to the frost. The crown or head of the 
 plant is cut so as to include the leaves, which.do not exceeds 
 nine inches in length. It boils well, and j^cves very tender 
 and sweet. 
 
 2o cook Grecna. — If not fresh and plump, they should be 
 10 
 
soared iri salt and -water for half an hour before' cookings. Vui 
 them in boiling water, with a little salaratus to preserve their 
 color. A little salt should also be added. Keep the water 
 boiling briskly until they are quite tender. 
 
 BK0CG0JA.-^J3rassica oleracea, var. 
 
 Afictlief variety of cablxige, inferior to the delicate cauli- 
 flower only, which it much resembles in appearance, growth 
 and flavor. It is supposed to haye originated on the island of 
 Cyprus, in the Mediterranean, and has been greatly improved 
 hy cultivation. Tlie name by which it is generally known, is 
 derived from the Italian language, and, indeed, we know that it 
 was first carried to Great Bi-itain from Italy. The seTeral sub- 
 varieties which have been j^roduced by chance or intentional 
 hybridization, differ greatly as to the color of their lieads, some 
 being j'ellow, while others are White, purple, etc. As bi'occoli 
 can be raised more easily and With greater certainty than the 
 cauliflower, it is becoming very popular, especially among 
 small gardffliers. The following kinds are considered among 
 the best, "viz.: — Grange's Ea^'ly Caul'^otoerj-^he Early Purple 
 Cape, — and the Early White Cape. 
 
 CuLTUEE, — ^Market gardeners are accustomed to sow the 
 seed in the latter part of summer, and, at the approach of win- 
 ter, to set the plants in a cold frame for protection through the 
 cold weather, in tlie manner diiected for Cabbage. These 
 plants are to be removed to the open ground in spring, and 
 carefully cultivated ; by which means, heads suitable for cook- 
 ing are to be expected as early as the month of June. 
 
 It is most common in this latitude, however, to wait until 
 April or May, according to the character of the season, before 
 sowing the seed, one ounce of which yields about four thou- 
 sand plants. In the Southern states, the summer frequently 
 proves too hot for the early-planted broccoli to come to per* 
 
DICTIONARY. HI 
 
 fectiuii, and there the seed can be sown about the middle of 
 July, on shaded borders, to be watered occasionally, if the 
 weather be dry. In about a month's time, the plants will be 
 of a proper size for removal to a large bed. 
 
 The soil ought always to be mellow and rich, having an 
 open exposure. Sow thinly in shallow drills, sis inches apart, 
 and, if the surface be light and dry, press it down compactly by 
 means of the roller, or by walking over a board placed length- 
 wise of the bed. Should the weather continue dry, some de- 
 lay, in the vegetation of the seed will probably be experienced. 
 Tile soil may then be sprinkled with water every two or three 
 days until the plants appear, or it may be covered during the 
 day time, Avith a thin layer of straw or light mats. In the latter 
 case, the covering should be removed at an early hour m the 
 evening, that the natural deposit of dew may not be inter- 
 rupted. Transplanting can be performed in Jmie or July, 
 when each stem shows some five or six leaves. Set the 
 plants out in rows, two feet apart each way. The work is best 
 performed in dull, damp weather, and water ought to be given 
 occasionally in moderate quantities until the roots become es- 
 tabUshed, as well as subsequently during time of drought. 
 
 The after-culture consists in hoemg the ground frequently, 
 and in the destruction of weeds as soon as they make their 
 appearance. In the com*se of a fortnight or three weeks after 
 transplanting, the earth should be drawn up to the stems in 
 such manner as to form a kind of shallow basin around each. 
 Broccoli will not flourish unless it receive considerable atten- 
 tion from the gardener. It is much annoyed, and oftentimes 
 destroyed, by insects ; the attacks of which must be guarded 
 against by the use of snufF, charcoal, ashes, air-slacked lime, 
 etc., sprinkled upon the plants when they are wet with dew or 
 water from a watering pot. Tiie earliest heads of the open- 
 air sowing will be of a suitable size for the kitchen in Sep- 
 fceuib'^-r or October; and, in favorable seasons, a regulai- supply 
 
112 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 may be expected from that time until the coming of hard 
 frost. 
 
 In the Southern states, the winter is mild enough for the 
 plants to remain undisturbed in the open garden, where they 
 will continue in bearing until April. In this part of the coun- 
 try, in the latitude of New- York, some protection is necessary. 
 The plants are taken up, at the commencement of cold 
 weather, and set in trenches, with the stems buried up to the 
 lower leaves. A cold frame may be set over the ridges, or 
 they can be enclosed by any rough box of boards, that has a 
 gentle inclination of the roof sufficient to turn off rain. Boards 
 or shutters may be used for the roof, instead of hot-bed sashes. 
 "When the frost becomes severe, throw some loose straw over 
 the plants. In mild, pleasant days, the covering should be 
 wholly or partially removed, for the admission of fresh air. 
 In this way, fine heads can be gathered from time to time 
 during the winter and spring. The pi'otection ought to be 
 gradually removed wlien the weather becomes warm. Or, 
 the plants can be set out in a shed, or in a light, dry cellar, 
 without the cold frame. Frozen heads should be covered up, 
 so that they may thaw slowly, by wliich means their flavor 
 ■R'ill be less impaired. 
 
 For seed, — reserve a few of the best and earliest plants, 
 and set them out in April. Water frequently, and wlien the 
 head opens, remove all the shoots except four or five of the 
 best, which will need support by a stake. The seed ripens in 
 September, and ought to be perfectly dry before being beaten 
 from the pods. American broccoli seed is sometimes in de- 
 mand for exportation, but American gardeners generally make 
 use of that which comes from England or France, while in 
 England the Italian seed is preferred. 
 
 Use. — Broccoli is not only a very pleasant, but also a 
 very wholesome, vegetable. It is prepared for the table ia 
 
DICTIONARY. 113 
 
 the same manner as the Caulifloweu, to 'wliicli tlie reader 
 will jjlease refer. 
 
 BRUSSELS-SPROUTS.— 5ras5ic(Z olera^ea, var. 
 
 Still another variety of the Brassica tribe, and by many 
 cultivators known as the Thousand- headed Cabbage. The stem 
 is erect, often four feet high, and having on the sides a great 
 nimil>er of miniature cabbage heads, each being one or two 
 inches in diametej-, about the size of a large walnut The top 
 of the stem mudi resembles a late Savoy, from which, indeed, 
 it is thought to have originated. It is greatly esteemed on 
 the coutiuent of Eui'ope — particularly in Belgium, and is now 
 attracting some atteutiou in this country. 
 
 CiFLTURE. — Tiie plants are raised from seed — an ounce be- 
 ing sufficient for about twelve square yards of ground, — to be 
 sown in April or May, according to tlie earliness of the season. 
 Transplanting is to be performed iu June or July ; the plants 
 being set iu rows, two feet apart each way. The leaves at 
 the top of the stem are cut off, some tea or fifteen days before 
 the sprouts aie gathered. The other details of cultivation 
 correspond so much to the management of Cabbage, that, to 
 avoid all unnecessary repetition, we refer the reader to that 
 vegetable. 
 
 For seed, — cut off the top of the stem, and permit the 
 flower-stalks to come from the little sprouts only. Great care 
 is required to prevent intermixture with other varieties. Where 
 this cannot be avoided, it is the best plan to purchase the 
 yearly supply of seed from an honest seedsman. 
 
 Use. — T!ie tops are said to be of very excellent flavor 
 while the sprouts are eaten as winter greens. It is yet an un- . 
 settled question, whether the sprouts are improved by being 
 10* 
 
114 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 touched with frost before tliey are gathered. Tliey commence 
 ripening in autumn, and continue in season for the table 
 throughout the winter. 
 
 To boil. — Place the sprouts in a vessel of clear water, and 
 let them remain for one hour. They ought to be washed 
 clean from dirt and insects. Tlien boil them until they become 
 quite soft, when they are to be drained, and stewed with cream 
 or floured butter. Season with pepper and salt, or serve to 
 the table with some kind of sauce. 
 
 BURNET. — Poteruim San^iisorba. 
 
 A hardy perennial, the young leaves of which taste and 
 smell somewhat like cucumbers. It is not much cultivated, 
 and only a few plants are required for the use of a common- 
 sized family. 
 
 Culture.— Bumet gi"ows upon the poorest class of soils 
 which abound in calcareous matter. It may be propagated 
 either by seed, or by partings of the roots. The seed is sown 
 in early spring, soon after the frost leaves the ground, in drills 
 about twelve inches apart, and not over half an inch deep. 
 When the plants are three inches high, they must l>e thinned 
 out to distances of eight or ten inches in the drill. The roots 
 can be planted in autumn, in the bed where they are lo re- 
 main, and water ought to be applied occasionally until they 
 obtain a firm foothold. The hoe should be frequently used, 
 to keep the weeds in subjectiMi ; and the stems of the plants 
 are to be cut down, whenever a growth of young leaves is de- 
 sired. At autumn, the decayed stalks should be removed, and 
 the surface di'essed with a little old manure. The bed must 
 be renewed as frequently as oice in every half dozen years. 
 
 Jf'or seed, — it is only necessary to permit a plant to throw 
 ijp its flower-stalks. An abundance of seed will be matured 
 in autumn. 
 
■DICTIONARY. 115 
 
 Use. — On account of their warm, pleasant taste, the tender 
 leaves are put in salads, soups and cool tankards. Tliey are 
 principally used by the French. We assure the reader, that 
 there are many other plants more worthy of cultivation in a 
 common family garden. 
 
 CABBAGE. — Brassica oleracea, var. 
 
 The history of the cabbage family forms one of the most 
 interesting chapters in vegetable physiology. The several 
 varieties of borecole, broccoh, Brussels-sprouts, cauliflower, 
 and the common cabbage, are all derived, by difference of 
 soil and cultivation, or chance intermixture, from the Brassica 
 oleracea of Europe. Of aU classes of culinary vegetables the 
 Brassica genus seems to be the most ancient, as well as the 
 most extensive. Dr. Lindley observes, that among nearly one 
 thousand species scattered over the face of the world, all are 
 harmless, and many highly useful. The Brassica oleracea is 
 familiarly known in England by the name of Sea-colewort. It 
 may be found growing on the cliffs in various parts of the 
 southern coast, and few persons would suspect its having been 
 the parent of so numerous and important a progeny. It bears 
 but few leaves, weighs scarce half an ounce, and is far from 
 being acceptable to the palate. Cabbage was a favorite vege- 
 table with the Romans, and they probably introduced it into 
 all those countries wliich they subjugated in war : in this way 
 it might have been carried to Britain, whence it has been 
 transmitted to America. Of the 'whole family, no member is 
 more generally esteemed than the garden or field cabbage, 
 which, witliout doubt, derived its name from the Latin 
 word for head — caput. It is cultivated in large quantities in 
 the neighborhood of cities, where it can be sold at such prices 
 as to afford an ample profit. The varieties belonging to the 
 garden are numerous, and of these the following may be con- 
 eidered a select list, viz: — the Early Dwarf, — the Early 
 
llg GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 York, — the Early Battersea, — the Early Wellington, — the 
 Early Vatiack, — the Large York, — the Large Sugarloaf, — the 
 Bergerc, — the Drumhead, — the Curled Savoy, — the Drumhead 
 Savoy, — and the Red Dutch. The second named is among 
 the best of the early kind, maturing early and having a very 
 fine flavor ; the eighth is esteemed for making sauer kraut ; the 
 ninth is extensively raised for exportation to a southern market ; 
 and the last is used for pickling purposes. 
 
 CuLTUEE. — Although the cabbage can be grown on any 
 richly manured soil, yet a deep, mellow loam, inclining to 
 clay, is to be preferred. The root is long, and needs a light, 
 open subsoil. No vegetable is more benefited by a large 
 supply of manure, because, as a general thing, " the richer the 
 ground, the more luxuriant will be the growth, and eaiiier the 
 •crop." The situation ouglit to be free and open. 
 
 The time for sowing must always be regulated by the 
 time when the crop is wanted. It has become common of 
 late years to set out early plants in the spring, and the heads 
 will be of a proper size for cutting, several days sooner than those 
 from the first sowing in the open air. The best mode of ob- 
 taining these plants, is to sow the seed somewhere about the 
 middle of September. One ounce of seed will yield from three 
 to four thousand plants. The best varieties for this sowing are, 
 the Early and I^arge Yorks, the Battersea, and the Vanack. 
 The seed can be spread broadcast, or put in drills ; — we prefer 
 the latter plan, for its greater neatness and convenience of culti- 
 vation. If the Aveather be dty, the bed ought to be in rather 
 a shaded situation, that the germs may not suffer from the 
 hot sun. Level the surface, and press it down lightly by the 
 spade or roller, or by walking upon a board. Give water in 
 moderate quantities, in case the sowing shall not be followed 
 bv showers. Vegetation may be somewhat accelerated by a 
 thin laj/er of straw. In about a week, the plants will make 
 their appearance, when a little soot should be spread over 
 
DICTIOXARY. 117 
 
 them, to prevent the attacks of insects. The -waterings 
 may be continued every second or third evening during dry 
 weather. 
 
 In tlie latter part of October, it will be necessary to re- 
 move the plants to then- winter quarters. Tlie best plan of 
 protecting them is by a cold frame, which is nothing but a 
 common hot-bed frame without heat, — it being set upon the 
 bare ground, instead of upon a heap of dung. In the want of 
 this, a cheap box can be made in a few minutes time, and at 
 a very trifling expense. Take two boards, and set them up 
 edgewise, six feet apart, in such manner that the north one 
 shall be some six or seven inches higher than the other. By 
 the addition of end boards, sloping down to the front side, you 
 will have a frame six feet wide, and of any desired length. 
 The boards can be supported in their places, by short posts . 
 driven firmly into the ground, and the earth should be banked 
 up on the outside, to prevent the admission of water or frost. 
 Set the plants quite thick in the frame or box, as the case 
 may be, with the assistance of a small-pointed dibble. As 
 soon as the weather becomes cold, cover them with plank or 
 shutters, which are to be raised for the purpose of admitting 
 liglit and air, on every clear, pleasant day, wlien there is no 
 danger of hard frost. This is indispensable, for without such 
 attention, the plants will prove of little value. Wlien the dep- 
 redations of mice or moles are discovered, it may be well to 
 place a little arsenic, mixed with Indian meal, in some place 
 where the trespassers will find it readily. 
 
 Another plan for protecting the plants through the winter, 
 will find favor with some readers on account of its simplicity. 
 It is often practiced by market gardeners. A piece of ground 
 is thrown up into high ridges, about two feet apart, and run- 
 ning nearly east and west. By the middle of October, the 
 plants are set out at distances of one foot from eaoli other, on 
 the south side of these ridges, so that they will be shielded 
 from nortlierly blasts, while enjoying a full exposure to the sua 
 
J18 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 When the weather is severely cold, straw, brush or corn- 
 stalks, are to be laid across the ridges, and removed in the lat- 
 ter part of March, or the begiiuiing of April. The ground is 
 then to be gradually levelled by the hoe. In mild winters, 
 this method succeeds very well, and the maturity of the crop 
 is thereby hastened several days. 
 
 Where the seed has not been sown in autumn, and early 
 plants are desired, they must be raised in the latter part of 
 winter. A few can be brought forward in boxes, or pots, set 
 upon the sill of a warm window ; or, a large number can be 
 forced on a small hot bed, with a moderate degree of heat — 
 as described in the article on " Forcing Vegetation." Air is 
 to be admitted, whenever the external temperature will per- 
 mit; and the sashes may even be slightly opened in a mild 
 night, so that the plants can get gradually hardened for their 
 removal 
 
 In spring, as soon as the weather becomes settled, trans- 
 planting may be commenced. Dig and manure the s(;il prop- 
 erly, and dibble holes for the reception of the plants. The 
 rows may be from twelve to thirty inches apart, according to 
 the varieties cultivated ; the Early York, for instance, can be 
 grown in rows only one foot distant from each other, while the 
 large Drumhead requires at least double that space. Raise 
 the plants carefully upon a trowel, and set them with the 
 balls of earth attached, in the holes previously prepared. Put 
 the largest plants by themselves, that the maturity of the crop 
 may be regular, and that as soon as one part of the ground is 
 cleai'ed, it may be immediately appropriated to something 
 else. When the plants are pulled by hand, or taken up by 
 the spade, instead of the trowel, it must be done gently, to 
 prevent tlie loss of the fibrous roots. We are accustomed to dip 
 each root into a semi-fluid mass of cow-dung and water, that 
 the dirt may adhere to it. After it is placed in the hole, the 
 earth is to be brought up in close c(»ntact with it, by a dex- 
 terous thrust of tln! dibble, or a sharp-pointed shingle. Keep 
 
DICTIONARY, 119 
 
 the soil well cultivated, and from time to time draw a little up 
 around the stem. 
 
 For the main crop, ■vv'hich is intended for autumn and "winter 
 use, sow the seed at any time between the middle of April and 
 the middle of May. Tlie Bergen, the Dfumhead, the Curled Sa- 
 voy, the Drumhead Savoy, and the Red Dutch, are all good va- 
 rieties for the purpose. The plants can be removed to their per- 
 manent location in six or eight weeks from tlie time of sowing. 
 The operation ou^ht to be performed just after the ground has 
 been freshly stirred, and in damp, cloudy weather, when tliere is 
 a probability of rain. In a dry time, a regular application of 
 water, botli before and after every removal, will much assist 
 the roots in becoming established. In our own garden, we 
 make use of the vine-shield, to prevent the tops being injured 
 by the heat. 
 
 The cabbage is attacked by several kinds of vermin. 
 When cultivated on the same spot for a number of years, the 
 root is often found covered with little knobs; they are sup- 
 posed to be caused by a burrowing grub, and the usual reme- 
 dies are, a rotation of crops, deep tillage, and a change of ma- 
 nures. The beetle, or fly, devours young plants as they 
 appear above ground, and so voracious is it, that the gardener 
 not unfrequently finds himself obliged to repeat the sowing two 
 or three times. Burning brush or straw upon the ground, im- 
 mediately before sowing the seed, is a very good preventive, 
 As soon as the plants appear, they can be dusted with soot, 
 Eishes, air-slacked lime, etc., when wet with dew, or water from 
 a pot. Or, a hen having a brood of chickens, can be confined in 
 the neighborhood of the bed, and the little chicks will destroy 
 thousands of the agile insects. 
 
 The leaves are sometimes attacked by caterpillars, which 
 must be picked off by hand ; and are occasionally infested 
 with aphides, or lice, which have a strong antipathy to soap 
 suds. Tlio cut- worm eats off the stem at the surface of the 
 ground, and buries itself by the root, upon the appearance of 
 
120 GARDExXER'S TEXT'BOOK. 
 
 tlie sun. Whenever a plant is found cut in this manner, search 
 sliould be immediately made at the root, and the grub will 
 generally be found there, enjoying a nap after its early break- 
 fast. As a preventive, some gardeners wrap around each stem, 
 at the time of its being transplanted, a piece of writing paper, 
 or a burdock or walnut tree leaf; while others dip it into com- 
 mon fish oil, which gives it an odor somewhat disagreeable to 
 vermin. Tlie vine-shield proves an excellent protection, and 
 has the further merit of advancing the crop. It must be the 
 aim of the cultivator to hasten the growth of the plants as 
 much as possible, in order that they may be the sooner out of 
 danger. For more particular directions upon this important 
 subject, reference must be made to the article called " De- 
 struction OF Vermin." 
 
 The after-culture is simple, but very essential. It consists 
 in stirring the soil frequently with the hoe, that every weed 
 may be checked in its groAvth, and that the plants may expe- 
 rience less inconvenience from drought. Every hour's labor 
 with this effective implement, adds greatly to the value of the 
 crop. The experiment of Curwen with cabbages, detailed on a 
 previous page, is full of instruction to tlie gardener, showing 
 what are the effects of keeping the surface open to atmospheric 
 influences. 
 
 Cabbages are preserved through the winter in several dif- 
 ferent ways. They may be set in ridges, in some dry part of 
 tlie garden, with tlie dirt drawn up close to the lower leaves, 
 and covered with straw, or a roof of coarse boards. The heads 
 are cut off as wanted for use, while the stumps will, tlie next 
 spring, produce fine greens for boiling. Or, the cabbages may 
 be set head downwards in a trench, and covered with earth 
 banked up like the roof of a house; they will be found, in 
 ppring, white, delicate and crispy. They will even grow while 
 in their winter quarters, and the half-formed, almost Avorthlesa 
 heads which were buried in aijtumn, get to be of quite a 
 respectable size before they are disinterred. We know of no 
 
DICTIONARY. 121 
 
 plan better than the one last mentioned. If heads are "vvanted 
 during time of frost, they can be taken up witii the assistance 
 of the crowbar and spade. 
 
 For seedy — plant out, in spring, some of the finest heads, 
 or even some of the best stumps, which will bear abundantly. 
 It should be borne in mind, how liable to intermixture are all 
 the members of the Brass lea family, and that pure seed cannot 
 be raised, if two or more varieties are suffered to bloom in the 
 vicinity of each other. Support the stems by small stakes, and 
 gather the seed before it has an opportunity to scatter itself 
 upon the ground. 
 
 Use. — The merits of cabbage as an article of food are so 
 conspicuous, that it is a universal favorite, especially among 
 the laboring classes of the community. "It is raised at a small 
 expense, and may be had in season, for a period of several 
 months. It is much relished by many stomachs, but its use by 
 persons of weak constitution, or quiet habits, is attended with 
 bad effects. Tlie modes in which it is prepared for the table 
 are four, viz. : sliced raw, pickled, salted, and boiled ; they 
 vary m.uch in respect to tlieir wholesomeness and digestibility. 
 The first, known as " cold slaugh," is simply raw^ cabbage, 
 sliced thin, and eaten with cold vinegar. It forms a grateful 
 addition to different meats. 
 
 21) pickle— The red cabbage is preferred for pickling pur* 
 poses. Tear off the loose outside leaves, cut the heads into 
 quarters, and lay the pieces in a keg, with a good sprinkling of 
 salt upon each layer. After they have remained nearly a 
 week, turn upon them hot spiced-vinegar ; one ounce of mace, 
 and one ounce of pepper-corns and cinnamon being put with a 
 gallon of the vinegar. To make the cabbage tender, the vine- 
 gar should be drawn off, and returned scalding hot, at least 
 half a dozen times. 
 
 Sniicr Kraut — is much eaten by our German population, and 
 by them considered very wholesome. The soundest heads are 
 il 
 
122 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 selected, and sliced fine. A layer, six inches deep, is put at the 
 bottom of the barrel, sprhikled with a handful of salt, and 
 rammed down by a heavy pestle. "When the barrel is filled 
 by these successiv^e layers, a cover is laid on the cabbage, and 
 loaded with heavy stones. In four or five days' time, all fer- 
 mentation will have subsided, and the kraut is then fit for use. 
 It is eaten cold, or warm^ed, with the addition of a little vinegar. 
 To ho'il. — 'Remove the outer leaves, and cut the head into 
 quarters. Boil them in the same pot with a piece of corned- 
 beef, or by themselves with a little salt in the water. Do not 
 take them up until they become quite tender. Dr. Paris has 
 suggested that the water be changed once, in order to extract 
 the essential oil, which is so offensive to the nostrils, and is, 
 moreover, believed to be somewhat hurtful to the system. 
 
 Capsicum.— /See PEPPER. 
 CARDOON.— (Tj/nccra carduncuhcs, 
 
 Tliis hardy perennial is a species of artichoke, a native of 
 Candia, and found growing wild in the southern part of France. 
 The stem rises to the height of four or five feet, and the leaves 
 spread out widely. It was introduced into England in the 
 year 1658, about a century later than the artichoke. It is 
 thought highly of, in various places on the continent of Europe, 
 but has not been extensively received into favor either in Eng- 
 land or in this country. 
 
 CuLTURK. — A light, rich, deep and mellow loam is best 
 adapted to the wants of this vegetable. The situation ought 
 to be open, and free from the influences of trees. The seed^- 
 (Mie ounce being allotted for six hundred plants, — is sown in 
 the latter part of April, and covered about half an inch deep. 
 When tlie plants become strong, thin them out in the bed to 
 distances of five iuclies, that they may have ample room to 
 Btrcngthen themselves for the process of transplanting, which 
 
DICTIONARY. 123 
 
 is to be performed in six or eight weeks after the date of 
 sowing. 
 
 In setting them out in their final quarters, it is well to trim 
 off the loose leaves, and to shorten the roots. Put them in 
 rows, four feet apart each Avay. Water must be applied abun- 
 dantly, not only at this time, but afterwards until the roots 
 become firmly established. The ground should be kept mel- 
 low, and free from weeds, by the occasional use of the hoe. 
 By the commencement of October, the leaves will be of a suit- 
 able size for blanching. Select a dry day, and, after pulling 
 off those on the outside which are decayed, gather up the re- 
 mainder in a regularly shaped bunch, and wind around it mat- 
 ting or hay -bands for about two-tliirds of its height above the 
 ground. Then draw the earth up around this coveruig, so care- 
 fully that none may reach the ribs of the leaves, to cause them 
 to decay. The plants can be taken up as wanted, whenever 
 they become sufliciently blanched, and may be kept in perfec- 
 tion through the winter by a simple covermg of dry litter. 
 
 For seed, — permit a few plants to remain unblanched, and 
 guard them against the effects of frost, by a covering of litter- 
 or mats. The flowers will open in the following July, 
 
 Use. — The edible parts are the stalks and midribs of the 
 leaves, after they have been blanched in the manner above 
 described. They are used either in the form of a salad, or 
 stewed, or put into soups. They are not thought very nutri- 
 tious, and are chiefly valued on the table as making a variety 
 of dishes, 
 
 CAKROT. — Daucus carota. 
 
 Believed to have been introduced into Europe from the 
 island of Crete. It was carried to England by the Flemish 
 refugees, during tlie reign of Elizabeth, and the leaves were 
 then used by ladies iff their head-dresses at evening parties. 
 
124 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 The root of the wild carrot is white and small, as well as 
 dry and strong-flavored; which fact illustrate.'^ the remarka- 
 ble imprt)verueut that has been effected m our commim escu- 
 lents, by cultivation for a long series of years. It is now, 
 withjustice, considered one of the most important root crops 
 of both the farm and the garden. The best vai-ieties are 
 thought to be the following : — the Early Horn., decidiully the ear- 
 liest, but smaller than, and not as profitable as, the Long Orange, 
 ■which is, therefore, best adapted for the main crop. There 
 are also several other kinds worthy of notice ; among the 
 principal of which, are — the Altringham, — and the Long 
 Surrey. 
 
 Culture. — The most favorable soil for the carrot is a rich 
 and mellow sandy loam. It should be spaded at least two 
 feet deep, and finely pulverized. If not thus prepared, the 
 roots will be found short and forked, instead of long and 
 cylindrical. Should the ground not have been left in good 
 condition by the previous crop, the autumn is the best time 
 for th.i application of manure, especially if it be rank and un- 
 fermented. The space allotted for the bed ought to be dug 
 over roughly, so as to court the action of the frost, and the 
 dung buried beneath the bottom spit ; by which means, the 
 Boil will become sweet and mellow by si)ring, and the roots 
 will descend to the substratum in search of nutriment, instead 
 of throwing out a mass of fibres near the surface. 
 
 For the early crop, sow in a warm, sheltered border, as 
 soon in March or April as the state of the ground will permit 
 An ounce of seed is generally thought sufficient for a bed con- 
 taining two rods. Take a clear, calm day for the labor, in 
 order to secure an even distribution of the seeds, which are 
 very light and liable to be blown away. As they are covered 
 with hairs, cau-ing them to cling tt)gethe.*-, they should be 
 briskly rubbed between the palms, and mixed with dry sand, 
 BO as to separate them as much as possible. Sow rather 
 
DICTIONARY. 
 
 125 
 
 thinly in drills one foot apart. In dry weather, it is advisable 
 to press tlie seeds into close contact -with the soil, by the 
 roller, or by walking upon a board laid across the drills. Cover 
 about half an inch tleep. 
 
 The sowing of the main crop, intended to be drawn by the 
 first of ]!Toveniber, and stored for winter use, can be delayed 
 until the mirldle or latter part of May. 
 
 The drills ought to be kept free from weeds, and the 
 plants, when one or two inches high, to be thinned out to dis- 
 tances of four inches. Where full-sized roots are desiied, these 
 intervals sliould be of six or eight inches. To be grown in 
 perfection, the carrot should not be closely crowded. Keep 
 the soil in good tilth by the frequent use of the lioe. About 
 the most effective implement f>r weeding or thinning out a 
 drill, is the gardener's own hand. Careful treatment in the 
 early stage of their growth, will have a marked effect upon 
 the health of the plants ; indeed, we consider an hour at this 
 period worth more than a whole day at any subsequent 
 season. 
 
 In the latter part of October, the crop having attaiaed ma- 
 turity, the leaves will change color. The roots may then be 
 taken up, on any dry, pleasant day, with care to avoid 
 breaking or injuring them. Cut off the tops about an inch 
 above the ci'owns. After the roots have been exposed to the 
 sun for a few hours, that some of the surplus moisture may 
 escape, they can be stored for winter use. They keep well 
 when piled in layers of sand in a dry cellar or shed, or upon 
 the open ground, in a large heap, to be covered with straw, 
 and a foot of earth on the outside. They are tolerably hardy, 
 and but little difhculty will be experienced in their preserva- 
 tion. 
 
 For seed, — set out, in spring, a few of the largest and best-' 
 
 shaped roots, about two feet distant from each other, the 
 
 crowns being buried a few inclies below the surface. As soon 
 
 as the fiower-heads become brown, the seed ought to be gath- 
 11* 
 
126 
 
 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 ered, before it has a chance to get scattered upon the ground, 
 or injured bj stormy weather. Gather from the finest heads 
 only, because their seed will produce the most vigorous plants. 
 Dry it well before attempting to thresh it out. 
 
 Use. — The carrot contains about six times as much nutri- 
 ment as the potato, and is by physicians considered whole- 
 some. It is, however, difficult of digestion when im2:)erfectly 
 boiled. It is prepared for the table in several different ways, 
 such as boiled plain, in a pudding, in soups, stews, etc. Its 
 value in an agricultural point of view is well known. As it yields 
 considerable spirit, it is somewhat employed in the distillery ; 
 but, we believe that every effort to extract sugar has proved 
 unsuccessful. When boiled, it makes an excellent poultice for 
 foul and cancerous ulcers. A pretty ornament for the mantel- 
 piece of the parlor in winter, is obtained by taking a tliin shce 
 from the crown of a root, and placing it in a shallow vessel of 
 water ; the leaves will soon start, and form an elegant, radiated 
 tuft, which is very pleasing at that season of the year. 
 
 To boil. — Wash the carrots, and, if they are of large size, 
 split them in two. Lay the pieces in a stew-pan with the flat 
 side down, and turn on sufficient boiling water to cover them, 
 Boil until quite tender, when they may be peeled, and after- 
 wards buttered. 
 
 Carrot Pie. — Scrape the carrots, boil them soft, and strain 
 through a sieve. To one pint of the pulp, put three pints of 
 milk, six beaten cgg^, two table-spoonfuls of melted butter, the 
 juice of half a lemon, with the grated rind of a whole one. 
 Sweeten to the taste, and bake in a deep plate without an 
 upper crust. 
 
 2h color BuUer. — We have for a long time used carrots in 
 our dairy to color winter butter. For eight pounds of butter, 
 grate a common sized root into cold water. After the pulp 
 has remained fifteen minutes, strain it, and add the water to 
 the cream before churninsf. The color of the butter will be 
 
DICTIONARY. 127 
 
 like that made in summer, while the flavor will not be at all 
 injured. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER. — Brassica oleracea, var. 
 
 " Of all the flowers in the garden," said Dr. Johnson, " I 
 like the cauliflower best." It is the most curious, as well as 
 the most delicately flavored, of the numerous varieties of the 
 cabbage family. The white flower buds form a large, firm 
 head, surrounded by long, green leaves, — being somewhat like 
 a "giant rose, wrapped in a green surtout.'' Its history 
 is not so well known as that of some other plants less valu- 
 able in the culinary department. On its being introduced 
 into England from the island of Cyprus, about the beginning 
 of the seventeenth century, much attention was paid to its 
 culture, by which means its appearance and character have 
 been greatly improved. In our own country, it is much less 
 known than its merits deserve. To show what an enormous 
 size it can be made to attain under skilful management, we 
 mention a single plant raised in the garden of the late Hon. 
 Peter C. Brooks, Medford, Mass. The bare flower measured 
 tliirty-eight inches in circumference, and weighed six pounds 
 and five ounces. Its culture is attended with not a little 
 anxiety and trouble, but not by any means sufficient to dis- 
 courage an enterprising man from the labor. It is not one of 
 the fancy vegetables, andwe think it ought to occupy a prom- 
 inent place in every garden that is worthy of the name. 
 ITiere are two sub-varieties, viz. : — the Early, — and the Late^ 
 or Large, — which will afford a succession of crops. 
 
 Culture. — For the early crop, the seed — one ounce of which 
 will afford between three and four thousand plants, — should 
 be sown in the middle of September, in the manner directed 
 for Cabbage. If the weather be dry, a little straw kept upon 
 the bed until the seed has sprouted, and, subsequently, an 
 occasional watering, will prove of great advantage. When the 
 
128 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 plants have acquired a height of two or three inches, they 
 must be thinned out to distances of four inches, so that they 
 may acquire a good, strong growth before cold weather. 
 About the first of October, a piece of ground is to be selected 
 fijr tlie cold frame. It ought to be in a warm, sheltered situa- 
 tion, spaded deep, and heavily manured. After being laid 
 into a bed of suitable size, the surface should be finely pulver- 
 ized and raked smooth. In the course of a week, the frame 
 is to be placed over this bed, with a bank of earth upon the 
 outside, in order to prevent sudden alterations of temperature 
 Avitliin. When the ground becomes settled, take up the plants 
 from the seed bed, by means of a trowel, and set them in the 
 frame about f )ur inches asunder. Give a gentle sprinkling of 
 water, but do not attempt putting on the sashes or shutters 
 until the weather actually demands it. The longer it can be 
 delayed with safety, the stronger and healthier will be the 
 plants. During very severe weather, the further protection of 
 mats or straAV will be necessary, but, to prevent a weak, 
 spindling growth, air must be freely given in every clear 
 day. There is much more danger of injury from close con- 
 finement, than from a moderately low temperature. 
 
 Where such accommodations cannot be afforded, and early 
 plants are desired, recourse must be had to a hot-bed, made 
 somewlierc about the beginning of February. Should they 
 come up too thick, they ought to be thinned out to distances 
 of four inches, and the surplus ones can, if desired, be set in 
 another bed. The leading direction for the management of 
 the frame, is simply to keep the heat at such a degree that the 
 stems and leaves will have a bright green color. To effect 
 this, a good supply of light and fresh air are required at all 
 times when the weather will admit of the sashes being raised. 
 
 In the middle of spring, or as soon as the gardener deems it 
 prudent, preparations must be made for removing a portion of 
 these early plants from the cold frame, or hot-bed, to the open 
 ground. The soil should be rich and mellow. In order to 
 
DICTIONAHY. 
 
 129 
 
 secure a succession of crops, two beds may be selected ; one 
 liavin^ a warm, southera exposure, with shelter on the north- 
 west, and the other in the open compartment. In taking 
 the plants from the frame, some of the very be-<t ought be left 
 standing, in rows about eighteen inches apart each way. By 
 the protection of mats in cold days and nights, together with 
 extra care in their cultivation, these will come to maturity 
 much earlier than those which are reitioved. The trowel is a 
 very valuable implement for the work of transplanting, as the 
 roots can be taken up with slight injury. The balls of earth 
 may be set out at distances of eighteen or twenty inches. If 
 the plants in the bed having the southern aspect, are covered 
 with hand-glasses, flower-pots, vine-shields, or even common 
 wooden boxes, durmg cool, frosty weather, in maturing they 
 will succeed those left in the frame, and be several days in 
 advance of those in the open compartment. By a little 
 management like this, the cauliflower season can be much ex- 
 tended, and a result so desirable is well worth the gardener's 
 serious attention. 
 
 In case the reader cannot raise plants in autumn or winter, 
 and is unable to obtain them from some more fortunate neisrh- 
 bor, or a nurseryman, he must be content with a late crop. 
 The seed is to be sown from about the middle of April to the 
 beginning of May, and the plants, when four or five inches 
 high, are to be set out like cabbages, in rows two feet apart 
 each way. From unfavorable weather, the crop is somewhat 
 uncertain. 
 
 The hills for the cauliflower ought to be hollowed upon 
 the top, like a shallow cup or basin, that they may be better 
 able to collect moisture. The thorough and frequent use of 
 the hoe is very essential. When the season is dry, the plants 
 need artificial watering at least every other day. They ought 
 not to suffer from • the drought, — a circumstance that will 
 be indicated by a drooping of the leaves, reuiinding the gar- 
 dener of his negligence. The head, which it will be remem- 
 
130 GARDEXER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 bered is the edible part, aud esteemed only for its tendernes3 
 and delicacy, can be finely blanched by bending over the 
 leaves, or tying tliem loosely together with a string. Where 
 the whole crop threatens to come to maturity at the same 
 time, a portion may be retarded by the same method. In 
 every season, the cultivator must carefully guard against the 
 extremes of heat and cold, as well as of drought and moisture. 
 
 Late plants, which al the approach of cold weatlier have 
 no appearance of blossoming, are sometimes removed to a 
 "warm cellar, where they will perfect themselves as if in the 
 open ground, and contiime in season throughout the greater 
 part t)f winter. The operation is best performed on a damp, 
 cloudy day, and the roots should be taken up witli large lumps 
 of dirt attached. The heads will gradually acquire a good size, 
 and be equally good with those taken from the hot-bed. 
 
 For seed. — Set out, in spring, some of the finest-looking 
 heads, — the flower-buds of which are firm and close. Support 
 the stems, and gather the best seed as it ripens. As with all 
 the members of the Brassica family, particular care must be 
 taken to prevent intermixture. We would refer the reader to 
 our article on " Saving Seed," to be found in the first part of 
 the book, for some valuable hints on this subject. 
 
 Use. — We have already quoted the remark of Dr. John- 
 son about tlie cauliflower. As far as our own opinion may be 
 worth anything, we do not hesitate to place this in the very 
 front rank of culinary vegetables. Nothing is more inviting 
 to our palate than a good head, which is brought to the table 
 well cnoked and properly seasoned. It is wholesome and 
 nourishing, especially for invalids, and makes a very orna- 
 mental dish. 
 
 To boll. — The head !>hould be cut with most of the sur- 
 rounding leaves attached, which are to be trimmed oft' when 
 the time comes for cooking. Let it lie half an hour in salt and 
 water, and then boil it in fresh water for fifteen or twenty 
 
DICTIONARY. 131 
 
 minutes, until a fork will easily enter the stem. Milk and 
 water are better than water alone. Serve with sauce, gravy, 
 or melted butter. 
 
 To pickle. — Place the heads in a keg, and sprinkle them 
 liberally with salt. Let them remain thus for about a week, 
 when you may turn over them scalding hot vinegar, prepared 
 with one ounce of mace, one ounce of peppercorns, and one 
 ounce of cloves to every gallon. Draw off the vinegar, and 
 return it scalding hot, several tmies until the heads become 
 tender. 
 
 CELERIAC. — Apium rapaceum. 
 
 Frequently called the Turnip-rooted Celery, to which order 
 of plants it belongs. It is much esteemed in Germany, but is 
 not often found in American gardens. 
 
 Culture. — Sow the seed, in drills ten inches apart, at dif' 
 ferent times during the spring months, in order to obtain a 
 succession of crops. The seed germinates slowly, and in dry 
 weather, ought to receive a moderate application of water 
 every evening until the plants become established. Keep the 
 ground light, and free from weeds. When the plants are six 
 inches high, they can be removed to their final quarters. The 
 soil of this bed should be mellow and fertile, and laid off into 
 rows sixteen inches apart each way. At this time, and sub- 
 Bequently during dry weather, water is to be given freely at 
 least every other day, — the quantity to be increased with the 
 growth of the roots. When the plants are nearly full grown, 
 it is customary to earth up the bulbs to the height of four or 
 five inches. In about a month, they will be found sufficiently 
 blanched for use. They may be preserved in sand through 
 the winter. 
 
 For seed. — See the directions given for Celery. 
 
 Use.— The roots may be boiled tender, cut into thin slices, 
 
132 GAUDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 and put in soup or meat pie-^. Or, after being' scraped and 
 sliced, they may be boiled very tender, and then stewed, for 
 four or live minutes, in just milk enough to cover them ; after 
 which they are to be buttered and seasoned with salt. 
 
 CELEBY. — Aplum graveolens. 
 
 No vegetable noticed in this volume has been more strikingly 
 improved by cultivation, than our common garden celery. It 
 seems to have been derived from a rank, worthless weed, 
 known by the name of Smallage, which is found growing in 
 marshy places, and on the banks of ditches, in Great Britain. 
 The two plants are very dissimilar in their general appearance 
 and habits, and while one is a favorite on the table of every 
 epicurcj the other is shunned as poisonous and disagreeable to 
 the taste. The long, crisp stalks, and the mild, delicate flavor 
 of the improved celery, remind the gardener liow much has 
 been done, and liow much can hereafter be done, in his occu- 
 pation, by skill and perseverance. Every such fact should 
 stimulate him to increased diligence and enterprise. There 
 are several varieties, the best of which are, pi'obably, — the 
 Whits Solid, — and the Red Solid. Many other kinds to be 
 found in catalogue'^, are highly recommended for their mon- 
 strous size ; a quality that seems to depend altogether upon 
 a favorable soil and unremitted attention. 
 
 Culture.— -The celery prefers a soil that is deep, light, 
 moist, and rich in vegetable mould, but not rank from the ap- 
 plicatiou of fresh dung. Tiie situation ought to be open, and 
 free from the influence of trees. 
 
 Earl'y plants are often raised on a small hot-bed, made 
 somewhere about the first of March. Only enough heat ia 
 required, to bring them forward to a suitable size for removal 
 to the open ground, as soon as the weather will permit. For 
 this reason, the heap of dung need not be over eighteen or 
 
DICTIONARY. 133 
 
 twenty-four inches in height, and tlie depth of mould should 
 be just sufficient to prevent injury to the roots by the heat 
 and rank steam. Water is to be applied in moderate quan- 
 tities, shade given during the middle of tlie day, and air ad- 
 mitted freely in all pleasant weather. When the plants are 
 four inches high, remove them to a bed of rich soil having a 
 warm situation. Here they are to be set in rows, four or five 
 inches apart each way. They should be watered and shaded 
 as before, and at night receive the protection of mats or cold 
 frames until all danger of frost be over. In this place, they 
 will acquire size and strength for their final removal. 
 
 The principal sowing may be delayed until the first fort- 
 night of April. The best position for the seed bed is a warm, 
 sheltered border, but having a northern aspect so as to be free 
 from the powerful effects of the noon-day sun. The ground shoul d 
 be finely pulverized, as the seed is so small that one ounce 
 will afford ten thousand plants. We prefer sowing in drills 
 six inches apart, and perhaps one quarter of an inch deep. In 
 very dry weather, it is advisable to give a little water both 
 before and after germination commences. When the plants 
 are three or four inches high, they are to be thinned out to 
 four inches apart in the row, and those pulled up to be set in 
 another b^d at the same distances. Water should be given 
 until the roots become established. 
 
 Preparations for transplanting the early crops into trenches, 
 must be made in the beginning of June, at the time when the 
 leaves are ab.)ut eight inches in height. Tlie removal of the 
 principal crop may be delayed some four or five weeks later. 
 As before remarked, the celery prefers a rich soil, with an 
 open exposure. The trenches should be at least two and a 
 half feet apart, ten inches wide, and fifteen inches deep. That 
 they may be straight, it is a good way to stretch the line, and 
 to mark out the sides by thrusting down the spKle. previt)us 
 to digging the earth, which is thrown equally on either hand. 
 In the bottom of each trench is to be placed four inches of 
 
 12 
 
134 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 Well rottdd dung, together with about four inches of good 
 loam, the jvhole being intimately mixed by the spade. The 
 plants are carefully taken up from the nursery beds, and have 
 their roots and leaves trimmed, besides being divested of 
 loose, straggling leaves and side shoots. Tliey are then set 
 six inches apart, in a row through the middle of each trend). 
 Wliere they have been taken up by the trowel, with balls of 
 earth attached, they seldom fail to do vrell. Tlie work is 
 most successful when performed in an evening, or in a damp, 
 cloudy day. A bountifal supply of water should now be 
 given, and, subsequently, from time to time until the roots be- 
 come accustomed to the change of location. During the day, 
 in order to prevent injur}' by the hot sitn, the trenches must be 
 covered, or rather shaded, by boards, brush or corn-stalks ; the 
 gardener being careful to remove everything of the kind upon 
 the approach of evening, that the regular deposite of dew may 
 not be interrupted. 
 
 The soil ought to be often stirred by a small hoe, or a 
 sharp-pointed stick. When tlie plants have attained a heiglit 
 of ten or twelve inches, it will be time to commence " earthing 
 up," as it is called. On a dry day, when the leaves are free 
 from moisture, they are to be gathered together in the left 
 hand, and held in an upright position, while the right one is 
 engaged in drawing some of the fine soil up against them. At 
 first, this ridge must be slight, and have the top rather hol- 
 lowed, so as to catch the rain. The dirt should be rendered 
 very fine before it is brought in contact with the steins, and 
 drawn up in such a manner, that none gets upon the centre 
 shoots to cause decay. This process is to be repeated every 
 ten days or fortnight while the plants continue growing, and 
 the quantity of dirt drawn up at a time to be gj'adually in- 
 creased, until only about six inches of the leaves are exposed 
 above the ridge. The stalks will be good for the table, when 
 blanched to the height of twenty inches. With the crop in- 
 tended for winter and spi-ing use, the " earthing up " process 
 
 i 
 
DICTIONARY. I35 
 
 must be conitnenced rather later in the season, because, when 
 performed in exti-eme hot weather, premature decay is apt to 
 follow. In taking up the crop, dig with the spade quite down 
 to the roots, so that the stalks can be raised without being 
 broken, whicli Avould much diminisli the beauty of their ap- 
 pearance upon the table. 
 
 Celery may be kept in the open air through the winter, 
 by having bt)ards, nailed together like the roof of a house, 
 placed over the trenches. Another way, is to take it up, when 
 frosty weather sets in, and put it in a pit in some dry, elevated 
 part of the garden. It is placed in rows about three inches 
 apart, with the tops of the leaves just above the surface, and 
 covered with a thick layer of straw to keep out frost, and a 
 roof of old boards to shed the rain. A large bank of earth 
 should be on the outside. By removing the straw, the 
 stalks can be dug up with ease, at any time when they may be 
 wanted for use. The plants are sometimes packed iu a box of 
 sand, and kept in the cellar ; they will continue good and fresh 
 for several weeks, but afterwards become wilted, losing that 
 delightful crispness for which they are esteemed. 
 
 FvT seed. — The cultivator must either leave a few of the 
 best plants — those wliich are solid and of a middUng size, — in 
 the place where grown, or set them out in the spring, in rows 
 two feet apart each way. Tlie loose, hanging leaves and side 
 shoots, should be previously removed. The seed-stalks, if not 
 supported by stakes, will be likely to suffer injury from violent 
 winds. Water may be apphed with advantage after the flow- 
 ers have opened, at least as often as every second or third eve- 
 ning. The seed ought to be perfectly ripe before being 
 gathered, and be stored in a cool, dry apartment. 
 
 Use. — The celery is a grateful addition to the winter table. 
 Its tender, sweet and crispy stalks are general favorites. They 
 are eaten as a salad, or simply with salt, or used in soups, stews, 
 and sauces. They should always be freed from sand and dirt, 
 
136 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 before being carried to the dining-room. In Italy, tlie unblanch- 
 ed leaves, or seeds when bruised, are considered excellent for 
 flavoring soups. 
 
 Celery stance, for boiled fowls, <i'c. — Wash the stalks, and cut 
 them into thin slices about two inches long. Stew them till . 
 tender, in a little weak gravy or water. Season with pow- 
 dered mace, pepper and salt. Then add tlie juice of a lemon, 
 and thicken with a piece of butter which has been kneaded iu 
 flour. 
 
 To stew. — Strip off the outer leaves of six heads, and cut 
 the blanched parts of the stalks into lengths of about four 
 inches. Stew the pieces in broth until they become quiie ten- 
 der, when you may add two table-spoonfuls of cream, together 
 with a lump of floured butter. Season to the taste with salt, 
 pepper, and nutmeg, and let the whole simmer gently for a 
 few moments. 
 
 CHERVIL. — Scandix cerefolium. 
 
 An annual, much esteemed by the Dutch and French. It 
 is a native of southern Europe, and in its aj^pearance some- 
 what resembles parsley. In ancient times, it was thought to 
 possess many extraordinaiw qualities, and was diligently sought 
 after by the illiterate herb-doctor. In tliis country, it is seldom 
 an inmate of the kitchen garden. 
 
 Culture. — The most favorable soil for chervil, is one of 
 avej'age fertility, light, and mouldy, with a free exposure. The 
 seed is sown in autumn, soon after it ripens, or at almost any 
 time in the following spring. It is to be barely covered, in 
 drills about eight inches apart. Press down tlie surface of the 
 bed, and, in dry weather, give it a gentle sprinkling of water. 
 When the plants show themselves, they are to be thinned out 
 to distances of eight inches in the drill. The leaves are fit for 
 gathering, as soon as they are tliree inches high, and by being- 
 
DICTIONARY. 137 
 
 cut down close, the stems wil] soon sprout a^ain. The ground 
 ought at all times to be kept free from weeds. 
 
 For •'iced, — some of the plants must be suffered to grow up 
 without being cut. They will ripen their seed in the early 
 part of summer. Keep it in paper bags through the winter. 
 
 Use. — Apart from its medicinal properties, chervil has 
 something of a reputation in the kitchen. Having a warm, 
 aromatic ta^te, the young leaves are extensively used by Eu- 
 ropeans in salads and soups. Two hundred years ago, it was 
 written, " Chervil should be eaten with oil and vinegar, being 
 first boiled, which is very good for old people that are dull 
 and without courage: it rejoiceth and comforteth the heart, 
 and increaseth the strength." Its influence upon the mental 
 and physical foculties, is now rated at a much lower degree. 
 There are many other plants which are quite as valuable as 
 tliis for seasoning dishes, and are certainly much more worthy 
 of cultivation. 
 
 CHIVE. — Allium schcenoprasum. 
 
 Tliis is a hardy perennial of Great Britain, there found 
 growing in meadows and pastures. It is a member of the 
 onion family. The roots are bulbous, while the leaves are 
 awl-shaped, and produced in small tufts or bunches. Tlie 
 flowers are white, tinged with purple. Only a few plants are 
 required for a family of moderate size. 
 
 CcLTUUE. — The chive will flourish in nearly every kind of 
 soil, but prefers that which is light and rich. It may be easily 
 propagated by offsets from the roots, in spring or autumn, put 
 in rows ten inches apart each way. The leaves and flowers 
 make quite an ornamental appearance, and, therefore, are well 
 adapted for the edgings of beds. The only cultivation neces- 
 sary, is to prevent their becoming choked with weeds. When 
 
 12* 
 
138 GARDENER^S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 the leaves are wanted for use, they should be cut down close 
 to the ground, and they will shortly be succeeded by a new 
 growtK After the tops change color in autumn, the bulbs 
 may be taken up, and stored as a substitute for the onion. 
 
 Use. — The chive has a mixed flavor of the leek and the 
 onion. It has the great advantage of earliness in spring. The 
 tops, when green, are used for seasoning soups, omelettes, 
 salads, etc. Many poultry breeders are accustomed to chop 
 the leaves into very small pieces, to be mixed witli the food 
 of young chickens, as a real or fancied preventive of disease. 
 The bulbs are sometimes used hke onions. 
 
 Corn (Indian).— /See INDIAN CORN. 
 
 CORN SALAD.— Fedia olitoria. 
 
 This annual, a native of Europe, is also known by the 
 names of Fetticus and Lamb's lettuce. The term corn salad is 
 probably derived from the circumstance of its being found wild 
 in corn-fields, while the more popular English title of lamb's 
 lettuce arises from its being a favorite food for young lambs. 
 It is a pleasant herb, and is valuable for its earliness. The 
 first dish placed upon the table, in the olden times, was a red 
 herring set in a corn salad. 
 
 Culture. — Sow the seed somewhere about the middle of 
 September, soon after it ripens, in drills six inches apart, on a 
 bed of mellow, rich soil, having an open situation. The seed 
 ought to be fresh, and one ounce will be found sufficient for 
 two rods of ground. The drills should be very shallow, not 
 more than one quarter of an inch deep. In dry weather, the 
 soil must be pressed into close contact with the seed, and an 
 occasional sprinkling of water will materially hasten vegeta- 
 tion. The plants may be thinned out to distances of four 
 
DICTIONARY. I39 
 
 inches in the ro\^, and ought at all times to be kept free from 
 the evil companionship of weeds. Late in autumn, the bed 
 can be covered with a slight layer of straw, or any other stuff 
 that will afford protection from frost Should the weather 
 prove mild, the leaves will be in season until the next spring. 
 Tlie sowing can be repeated at the beginning of March, and 
 again about the first of August, or as much oftener as desired ; 
 but it is believed, that these three beds, if of any reasonable 
 size, will be quite sufficient for the wants of a single family. 
 
 For seed, — it is only necessary to permit some of the plants 
 to throw up their seed-stalks, a very few of which will produce 
 enough for the cultivator's own wants. 
 
 Use. — Corn salad has a mild, pleasant taste, and is much 
 esteemed in England The tops are commonly eaten while 
 young and tender, in the form of a salad ; but in France, it is 
 eometimes dressed like spinach. In the summer season, the 
 whole plant may be gathered, but, during the spring and win- 
 ter months, only the outer leaves. 
 
 CRESS. — Lepidium sativum. 
 
 A small salad herb, of which the principal variety is 
 familiarly known as Pepper-graf^R. It proves a hardy annual, 
 and has been cultivated in England for over three hundred 
 years; having been brought from Persia, or Cyprus, as is 
 supposed, about the year 1548. 
 
 Culture. — For the first crops, recourse must be had to a 
 gentle hot-bed, built in the latter part of winter. The heat 
 must be sufficient to bring the plants forward for cutting in a few 
 hours' tiirie, without the growth being so rapid as to deprive 
 them of their agreeable flavor. As soon as the weather will 
 permit in March, seed may be sown in the open ground, in some 
 warm, sheltered border. One ounce is allowed to a bed four 
 
140 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 feet square. Tlie surface soil should be finely pulverized, and 
 laid out into shallow drills six inches apart. The seed is to be 
 barely covered, and pressed down by the spade or a board. 
 
 This open air sowiu:^ C;in be repeated every week or fort- 
 night, until the arrival of cold weather. In a dry time, the 
 bed ought either to be in a shaded situation, or to be protected 
 from the effects of a midday sun by a thin covering of brush 
 or straw. It ought also to receive occasional applicatioivs of 
 ■water. When the season is cold, an old hot-bed frame may 
 "be called into requisition, or reliance placed upon straw and 
 mats. The leaves are in perfection, wlien two or three inches 
 high, and it is best to cut them down close to the ground. By 
 merely taking off the tops, the roots will be induced to sprout 
 again, but the second growth is inferior to the first. 
 
 For seed, — a few rows may be left uncut, or a sowing can 
 be made in spring, especially for that purpose. The flower- 
 stalks will ripen in autumn. 
 
 Use. — The leaves of cress, when young and tender, have a 
 sharp taste, that is peculiarly agreeable. Tliey are most 
 usually put in salads, together with chervil, lettuce, mustard* 
 and plants of the like character. 
 
 Cress (Indian).— /See INDIAN CRESS. 
 
 Cress (Water).— 5ee WATER CRESS. 
 
 CUCUMBER.— C*;e?«»2S satiirns. 
 
 Tliis fruit is distinguished for its great antiquity and gen- 
 eral dissemination. We are told in the Mosaic history, that 
 the Israelites had enjoyed it while they were in Egypt, and 
 murmured at its loss during their joumeyings through the 
 ■wilderness. Even at this day, it forms a principal article of 
 food in many countries of the east. It is supposed to have 
 
DICTIONARY. 141 
 
 been introduced into Europe from some part of the Levant. 
 It was highly esteemed by the Roman?, and they cultivated 
 it with great skill and success. The Emperor Tiberius had 
 it in season throughout tht; whole year, by the employment of 
 artificial heat In England, it has ever been a great favorite, 
 and large tracts are annually devoted to its production for 
 market. The poet Cowper invoked his muse, to sing the 
 praises of "the prickly and green-coated gourd," and has 
 given us in verse an account of its growth in the winter 
 months, which, for minuteness of detail, is worthy of the pro- 
 fessed gardener. 
 
 The fruit is pleasant and agreeable to the taste ; and " as 
 cool as a cucumber," has become an every-day expression of 
 well understood meaning. Physicians, however, maintain that 
 it has little nutritious value, and we all know that its use by 
 persons of a delicate constitution, is frequently attended with 
 unpleasant effects. There is a good deal of rivalry about ob- 
 taining early crops, and perhaps we should say, a good deal 
 of interest, as they command extraordinary prices when ex- 
 posed in market. It is said, that in the London fruit-stalls, a 
 dozen cucumbers will be sold in March for a guinea, while in 
 August they will not bring more than a penny. There are 
 many varieties, among the choicest of which we enumerate — the 
 Early Short Prickly, — WieLong Prickly, — and the Long Early 
 Frame. The list is small, but very select, including those 
 kinds best adapted to the wants of small cultivators. The last 
 one of the three, as its name implies, is most usually grown in 
 the hot-bed. Some English varieties, like the Manchester 
 Prize and the Nepal, have been made to attain an enormous 
 size, being perhaps two feet in length, and weighing twelve 
 pounds each. The cucumber flourishes in every part of the 
 United States, and its popularity among all classes will be a 
 sufficient apology for the extended notice given it here. 
 
 CuLTUEE. — As iax as soil is concerned, it seems best pleased 
 
142 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK, 
 
 •with a light, fresh loam ; yet it will grow vigorously, and 
 yield an abundance of fruit, in almost any spot of average fer- 
 tility, provided it have a good supply of heat and moisture. 
 As we remarked above, it is an object with many to employ 
 artificial heat, so as to bring the crop to maturity in the wii> 
 ter season. This is rather a delicate process, attended with 
 considerable expense and numerous discouragements ; but, if 
 successfully carried througli, it speaks loudly of one's skill and 
 enterprise. Most family gardeners for Avhom this little work 
 is designed, are conteiit with setting out early plants in the 
 spring, and sheltering them under hand-glasses ; by which 
 means, they will obtain fruit several days sooner tlian tliose, 
 who wait until the weather becomes mild enough for the seed 
 to be sown in the open ground. Our plan requires that we 
 should describe each of these three modes ; and, first, of 
 
 The Hot-bed. — For all general directions ujwu the con- 
 struction, and management of the hot-bed, the reader is refer- 
 red to the article on " Forcing Vegetation," to be foubd in a 
 previous part of the volume. We remind him, however, that 
 the dung lie uses should be of good quality, without too large 
 a proportion of litter. It should lie in a conical-shaped heap 
 for ten days or a fortnight, being turned over every three or 
 four days, in such manner that all portions of it may be 
 equally exposed to the atmosphere. When its rankness shall 
 have escaped, the straw assuming a brown color, it is to be 
 immediately made into a Ixsd between three and four feet 
 high, in some sheltered corner of the grounds. The different 
 courses of dung must be beaten down gently with the fork, 
 while the sides are occasionally combed to insure regularity of 
 shape. 
 
 After the dung lias been carried up to a proper height, 
 the frame and sashes are to be placed, and the sashes kept 
 close for a couple of days, to draw up the heat. The size of 
 the bed depends, upon whether it may be intended merely 
 for the production of young plants, that are to be removed to 
 
DICTIONARY. 1 43 
 
 unotlior frame in wLich they may perfect themselves. As a 
 general thing, tliey succeed best when transplanted, and, in 
 that case, the first bed should be a small one, and the second 
 of the largest dimensions, as being required to afford a great 
 nnd long-continued warmth during the coldest part of the 
 year. The next thing necessary, is to let the steam that now 
 fills the frame, escape by raising the north end of the sashes 
 for a few inches. This is done by the insertion of wedges. 
 In the course of a weet, the dung will be in a proper 
 state for the reception of the mold. If the bed be de- 
 signed for nothing more than raising plants, the dirt is 
 spread over the surface to the depth of five or six inches ; but, 
 otherwise, it need not be deeper than three inches, except un- 
 der the centre of each sash, where it is drawn up into a little 
 hillock, eight inches high, and a foot in diameter." In three 
 days afterward, ex;imine the soil, and, if it appeal* caked or 
 burned by the heat, it must be renewed, or the seeds cannot 
 be sown with safety. 
 
 When the seedlings are to be transplanted, it is best to 
 sow in small pots which are plunged in the mould ; if to re- 
 main, then the seed should be put on the tops of the little 
 hillocks ; but in neitlier case is it to be buried more than half 
 an inch deep. Indeed, it is always a good way to have a few 
 in pots, to supply any deficiencies that may occur in the hil- 
 locks. At night, as well as during any tempestuous weather, 
 the glass ought to be covered with mats, straw or litter, to 
 prevent a violent reduction of the temperature within the 
 frame. It should range between 65° and 85°, — not being 
 below 65° at any time. The seeds germinate quickly, and 
 when the plants are in the rough leaf, their number is to be 
 reduced to three in each pot or hillock. Let them have plenty 
 of light, and admit fresh air at every favorable opportunity, 
 by tilting the sashes at the back of the frame. Tepid water 
 should be applied to the soil whenever it appears dry : the 
 most suit^able time of day for doing it is about noon. Guano- 
 
144 GARDENER'S.TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 water is sometimes used with the best results. If the plants 
 suffer from the heat of midday, a little straw, or a thin mat, 
 spread upon the glass, will be found of great benefit. TThen 
 their rough leaves attain a breadth of two or three inches, 
 they are fit for being removed to the fruiting-bed, — which 13 
 of large size, and has a hillock raised under each sash. Set 
 them out carefully, with the balls of earth unbroken, and 
 keep the glass closed until the following morning. Of course, 
 care must be taken that the heat be not too violent, ana that 
 the plants do not droop under the influence of the sua. A 
 little water given at this time, will be gladly received by the 
 roots ; and as soon as they become established, the depth of tho 
 soil is to be gradually increased, until the surface is level witli 
 the tops of the hillocks. 
 
 To strengthen the vine, as well as to cause the early de 
 yelopment of fruit, it is usual to " stop" the main stem, bj 
 pinching off the point, as soon as four leaves are formea. 
 Should the growth of the lateral branches be too luxuriant, 
 they must be stopped in the same manner. They ought to be 
 spread over the ground, so that they may not interfere with 
 one another, and that all the foliage shall be equally exposed 
 to the light. The temperature of the bed should now range 
 between 75° and 95°, but on no account to be suffered to fall 
 below 70°. Where the heat of the bed has dea-eased, lininorg 
 must be applied to the sides successively, and banked on the 
 outside with earth. Give water in moderate quantities, every 
 two or three days : and admit air freely whenever the weather 
 is clear and pleasant. Flowers may be expected in four or 
 five weeks from the time of sowing the seed. It is necessary 
 to assist nature in the impregnation of the fruit, by gently twirl- 
 ing the male flowers over the females, whicb are distinguished 
 by a sohd swelling at the base. "Without this care, the value 
 of the crop would be much depreciated Cowper speaks of the 
 
 '* Golden flowers, 
 Blown on the summit of th' apparent fruit. 
 
DICTIONARY". 145 
 
 Tliese have their sexes ! and, when summer shines, 
 
 The bee transports the fertiUzing meal 
 
 From flower to flower, and e'en the breathing air 
 
 Wafts the rich prize to its appointed use. 
 
 Not so when winter scowls. Assistant art 
 
 Then acts in Nature's office, brings to pass 
 
 The glad espousals, and ensures the crop." 
 
 Fruit may be cut in fifteen or twenty days afterward, and 
 where the good quality of the produce is considered of more im- 
 portance than its quantity, it is well to reduce it in tlie early 
 stages of its growth. Should the heat of the bed again decline, 
 so as to be insufficient for the pei-fection of the crop, the old 
 linings are to be taken away, and be replaced by fresh dung. 
 This, as a matter of course, is not so essential in the montlis of 
 March and April, as in the middle of wii;>ter. The length of 
 the wliole process varies from eight to twelve weeks, accord- 
 ing to tlie time of year. The same poet well describes the dif- 
 ficulties which the gardener has to encounter, although some of 
 our enthusiastic friends may tliink the statemeni too highly 
 colored : — 
 
 " Ye little know the cares. 
 The vigilance, the labor, and the skill, 
 That day and night are exercised, aiul hang 
 Upon the ticklish balance of suspense. 
 That ye may garnish your profuse regales 
 With summer fruits brought forth by wintiy sens. 
 Ten tliousand dangers lie in wait to thwart 
 Tiie process. Ileat and cold, and wind, and steam, 
 Moi-;ture and drought, mice, worms, and swarming flies». 
 Minute as dust, and numberless, oft work. 
 Dire disappointment, that admits no cure, 
 And which no care can obviate; It were long — 
 Too long, to tell th' expedients and the shifts^ 
 Which lie tliat fights a season, so severe 
 13 
 
146 
 
 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 Devises, while he guards his tender trust ; 
 And oft at last in vain." 
 
 A small hot-bed is often used for obtaining early plants to 
 be removed to the open ground. The seed is sown in pots of 
 earth, or in small pieces of turf, so that the roots may suffer as 
 little injury as possible from being transplanted. Every cheap 
 and practical method of hastening the maturity of the crop, is 
 worthy of consideration. 
 
 211.6 Hand- Glass is useful in forwarding plants. And for 
 small cultivators, we think it more important than the hot- 
 bed. In the beginning of April, a small hole, say eighteen 
 inches deep, and as wide as the glass to be employed, should 
 be dug on a warm border having a southern exposure. Put in 
 fourteen or fifteen inches of active manure, and cover that with 
 six inclies of fine, rich soil, on wiiich the seeds are to be sown. 
 Place a hand-glass over the hill, and, during cold days or 
 nights, give the additional protection of a mat, or a layer of 
 long litter. While it is desirable to preserve a high tempera- 
 ture below the glass, fresh air must be admitted, in such quan- 
 tities and at such times as will secure a vigorous growth, 
 together with a strong, healthy green color in the plants. As 
 the season advances, they ought to be gradually hardened, in 
 order that they may not suffer serious inconvenience from the 
 entire removal of the glass. The proper regulation of this 
 matter will require a good deal of judgment, lest tiie tender 
 vines experience a fatal check, from the want of that shelter 
 under which they have been coaxed into a premature exist- 
 ence. 
 
 Hand-glasses are also valuable in the protection of early 
 plants raised on a hot-bed, or in a warm kitchen window 
 and removed to the open gi-ound before the weather becomes 
 settled. We have found the vine-shield a very cheap and effi- 
 cient substitute ; altliough it may be considered inferior to the 
 regular hand-glass. 
 
 ■Botdng in the open air may be performed ia the latter part of 
 
DICTIONARY. J 47 
 
 April, or any time during the month of May, according to the 
 character of the season. Plants of very early sowings are apt 
 to be cut off by a late frost. Nevertheless, it will be for one's 
 interest to get the seed into the ground as soon as it can be 
 done with safety. The first labor will be to mark out the liills 
 at regular distances ; perhaps, five fecjt apart each way will be 
 sufficient, but to allow six feet is much the better plan. They 
 should be dug out to the depth of twelve or fifteen inches, with 
 about the same diameter, and be partly filled with well rotted 
 dung, or a compost of hen-dung, overlaid by some rich, mel- 
 low loam. Sow five or six seeds in each ; at which rate, one 
 ounce of seed will plant near two hundred hills. 
 
 The attacks of the striped cucumber-bug, the flea, and other 
 vermin, may be somewhat guarded against, by the use of wood- 
 ashes, tobacco-dust, road-dust, charcoal-dust, air-slacked lime, 
 soot, or the offensive solution of hen-dung. The war, on the part 
 of the gardener, should be diligently prosecuted, by which means 
 only can he expect a suitable reward for his labor. The 
 ^•ine-shleld is a valuable assistant, for besides preventing the 
 ravages of the vermin, it greatly hastens the growth of the 
 plants. "When they have attained such a size that they are no 
 longer in danger, the number in each hill should be reduced to 
 three, and still later in the season to two. The ground may be 
 occasionally watered at evening in dry weather, with decided 
 advantnge, and the hoe ought to be used so often as to keep 
 the surface open, and prevent the encroachments of weeds. 
 Some persons are accustomed to put a layer of straw under the 
 vines, some three or four inches in depth, that they may suffer 
 less injury from continued wet weather, and tliat the soil may 
 be less affected by drought. 
 
 Cucumbers intended for pickling purposes, should be 
 planted sometime during the first fortnight of July. In the 
 bearing season, the vines ought to be examined daily, and, in 
 order to secure greater productiveness, be relieved of the fruit 
 as soon as it acquires a proper size. 
 
148 GARDENKR-S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 For seed, — select some of the best fruit, and permit it to 
 remain on the vine until it turns yellow. Then cut it off, and 
 let it be exposed to the sun for some two or three weeks, at 
 the end of which time the seed may be washed from the pulp, 
 and spread out to dry. It will continue good for years, and, 
 in fact, is to a certain extent improved by age. 
 
 Use. — Cucumbers are not remarkably wholesome, and to 
 persons of weak constitution are positively injurious. However 
 prepared for the table, they ought always to be eaten with 
 great moderation. The expressed juice is sometimes employed 
 as a cosmetic, and it enters into the composition of several 
 French pomades. 
 
 To be eaten raio, — they should be freshly picked, and placed 
 in a dish of clear, cold water. About fifteen minutes before 
 they are wanted, pare and slice them into another dish of 
 water. Just before carrying them to the table, drain off the 
 water, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, atid cover with 
 good vuiegar. 
 
 To steio. — Out several large cucumbers into thick slices^ 
 flour them well, and fry them in butter ; then put them into a 
 saucepan, together with a tea-cupful of gravy, and season with 
 salt and Cayenne pepper. Let them stew slowly for an hour, 
 when they may be served hot. 
 
 To pickle. — The best cucumbers for this purpose are small, 
 green, tender and free from blemishes; and they mu;-t be re- 
 moved from the vines, as soon as they acquire a proper size. 
 Immediately after being picked, they should be put in a vessel 
 of boiling water, and allowed to remain in it for four or five 
 hours. Then put them in cold vinegar, with alum and salt in 
 the proportion of a table-S[X)()nful of the first, and a tea-cupful 
 of the second, to every gallon. When the time for pickling 
 arrives, turn off the vinegar, and scald it. After being skiunned 
 clear, it should be turned back upon tlie cucumbers when hot. 
 
DICTIONARY. 149 
 
 They will be greatly improved by the addition of a few pep- 
 per-corns. Tlie vinegar will require to be drawn off, and re- 
 turned scalding hot, several times; if it prove weak, it ought 
 to be thrown away, and fresh pi-ocured.. 
 
 CURRANT.— i2?:6es. 
 
 We ai'e not acquaintod with any fruit which is more gene- 
 rally disseminated through the northern states, than the one 
 now under notice. In some sections, it would be a difficult 
 matter to find a respectable farm house that is witliout a few 
 currant bushes, either disposed along the path which leads to 
 the front door, or planted by the fence of the vegetable gar- 
 den. It is truo, that in nine cases out of ten they receive little 
 or no cultivation, — being seldom relieved of the old, barren 
 wood, and not manured from one j'ear's end to another; still 
 the good wife places a high estimate upon the fruit, and would 
 not willingly be deprived of it. There are many reasons by 
 which to account for this, such as the hardy character of the 
 shrub, its free growth, and great productiveness, in addition to 
 the excellent qualities of the fruit, both when freshly picked, 
 and in its preserved state. 
 
 There are several species to be found growing wild in this 
 country, but those of our gardens came originally from the 
 northern parts of Europe and Asia, and are largely indebted 
 to the skill of the Dutch horticulturists. In Siberia, the berry 
 of the black species, the R. nigrum, frequently attains tlie size 
 of a hazle-nut. Botanists aver that tlie white currant, which 
 by some has been considered a distinct species, the R. alburn^ 
 is nothing but a variety of the red species, the R. rubrum. 
 Wlien the shrub is found in its natural state, the berry is either 
 black or red, of small size and poor thivor. The name of the 
 fruit is said to have been derived, from the resemblance of the 
 berries to the 'little Corinth grapes or raisins, which have long 
 
 13* 
 
150 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 been known in commerce as currants — tlie word evidently be 
 iag a corruption of Corinth. 
 
 It seems strange that so little attention should be paid to 
 the selection of the best varieties for culture, when they can 
 be obtained so easily, and at such a trifling cost. They are not 
 only more profitable than the common Irinds, in a pecuniary 
 point of view, but their fruit is infinitely su|X'rior for domes- 
 tic uses. Of the popular red sj^ecies, the fi>lh)-u'ing varieties 
 raay be considered chiefly worthy of notice, viz. : — th;' Red 
 Dutch, — May's Victoria. — and Itnic/hfs Sweet Red. Of the- 
 white variety, the White Dutch, and the White Grape are 
 \jndoubtedly the best sorts for a garden. The Ckampnr/ne is 
 of a light pink color, between the Red and White Dutch ; it is 
 acid, and cultivated by many as a curiosJty. Of tlie black 
 species, the Comr/ian Black is nouch iiif(,'i-i(>r to the Black 
 Naples. 
 
 Culture. — An idea appt>ar3 to liave become prevalent, that 
 currant bushes require neither high culture, nor attention of 
 any kind. They are generally clK)ked with grass and weeds, 
 of a stunted, inferior growth, full of dead wood, and producing 
 fruit of the poorest description. Experience has demonstrated, 
 however, that bo inmate of the garden can be more improved 
 by a rich soil, and careful cultivation. 
 
 New bushes are easily obtained by planting cuttings of the 
 last year's growth. Tl:iey should be taken from tlie most 
 vigorous shoots, and with a sharp knife, so as to leave no 
 rough or ja^ed edges to the bark. Tliey ouglit to be about 
 ten or twelve inches in length, and, when they are to be trained 
 as standards, to have the buds on the lower half smoothly cut 
 out, in order to prevent tlie appearance of troublesome suckers. 
 Plant the cuttings, after being thus prepared, about six inches 
 deep, and at least two feet apart, in early spring, or just be- 
 fore winter sets in. 
 
 It is best to have them in rather a shaded situation, so thai 
 
DICTIONARY. 
 
 151 
 
 they will not suffer from the heat of noonday. The applica- 
 tion of a little water at intervals, will encourage the speedy 
 formation of roots. In the second spring thereafter, remove 
 the bushes to the spot in the garden whei-e they are to stand 
 permanently. They are sometimes placed in the border, but 
 more commonly on the sides of the principal walks. Thev 
 will thrive in almost every soil, although they have a decided 
 preference for one that is strong, rich, deep and somewhat 
 moist. Tliey succeed well in a free, open exposure ; but, to 
 secure their general health, a partially shaded location is un- 
 doubtedly best. The gardener should, however, have bushes 
 in both situations, as those having the full benefit of the sun's 
 rays will ripen their fruit earhest in the season, but it will 
 be smaller and less delicately flavored than that which lias 
 been perfected in the shade. They are to be set out in rows, 
 four feet apart each way. 
 
 It has become common of late years, to recommend train- 
 ing currant bushes in the shape of trees, with the main stems 
 running up from twelve to thirty-six inches high, before the 
 side shoots are permitted to branch out. These standards have 
 a very respectable appearance, and are rather more easilv cul- 
 tivated than the shrubs, where suckers are allowed to grow up 
 at will. But, Mr. Cole, a distinguished authority on the sub- 
 ject, says that if they are permitted to sucker moderatelv, un- 
 der a regular system of pruning, they will be longer lived, and 
 produce more abundantly, than where the whole nourishment 
 of the top passes through a single channel. 
 
 Nevertheless, the shape of the bush is not of as much im- 
 portance as the other details of management. A due regard 
 to pruning is very necessary to the production of fruit, which 
 is borne mostly by two-year old wood. In some leisure hour 
 of autumn or winter, all the old and stintetl brunches should 
 be removed, and the shoots of the preceding year's growth 
 shortened some five or six inches. By such a course, the sap, 
 instead of being wasted upon barren wood, is confined within 
 
152 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 a small compass, and is permitted to form shor.t, fertile spurs. 
 Care must be taken to prevent too dense a growth ; the 
 branches should be few, spreading out widely, and not cross- 
 ing or interfering with one another, so as to admit the sun and 
 air to every leaf 
 
 When there is a convenient opportunity in the lat+er part 
 of summer, the soil ought to be enriched by the addition of a 
 little good manure, dug in among the roots. Omitting this 
 until winter, or the following spring, has been aptly compared 
 to cramming an animal with food just before it is slaughtered. 
 The roots require their food whilst they are getting in readi- 
 ness for the next summer's crop, and npt after their growth is 
 suspended for the season. At all times of the year, the soil 
 should be kept light and free of weeds, so that the roots may 
 have no cause to complain of inattention on that score. Fruit 
 of the very finest quality may be expected, attractive for its 
 size, rich color, and delicious flavor. It can easily be kept on 
 the bushes until the middle of autumn, by covering it with 
 mats, cloths, or anything to shield it from the sun. Should the 
 reader be disposed to think such particular care in the cultiva- 
 tion of the currant unnecessary, we advise him to manage at 
 least one bush in the manner above described, while he per- 
 mits the remainder of the plantation to take care of itself in 
 the good old-fashioned way; and, if we mistake not, he will ere 
 long be convinced of the justice of our remarks. The borer, 
 which iri some districts occasions a good deal of injury, is pro- 
 duced by a blue-black moth ap]>earing about the middle of 
 June. Every stem that is affected should be burned. As a 
 preventive, apply to the bushes, before the season of the 
 moths, lye or potash- water, or some other offensive wash. Va- 
 rious insects and worms that annoy the foliage may be repelled 
 by the application of lime, or whale oil soap-suds. 
 
 Use. — The reputation of the currant has long been estab- 
 lished as one of the most wholesome and grateful of fruits for 
 
DICTIONARY. I53 
 
 the dessert. The cool, acid flavor is peculiarly agreeable in 
 the summer season, and has led to several diiferent prepara- 
 tions of the fruit for winter use. Before they get to be fully 
 ripe, currants are stewed for tarts or puddings, either alone, or 
 together with some other green fruit. The expressed juice is 
 made into shrub, wine and jelly. The shrub makes a pleasant 
 summer drink ; the "wine was formerly very popular among 
 our agricultural community ; while the jelly is an indispensa- 
 ble accompaniment to many dishes. The fruit of the black 
 species is chiefly used for making a jam, which is thought val- 
 uable as a remedy for various disorders of the throat. The 
 young leaves have been dried, and used as a substitute for 
 green tea, from which, it is said, that it can scarcely be distin- 
 guished. All kinds of cmrants are much esteemed in cases of 
 sickness, for quenching thirst, and having a cooling influence 
 upon the stomach. 
 
 To 'preserve the green, fruit. — Pick it when fully grown, dry 
 the surface well without shrivelling, and cork it tight in glass 
 bottles, — covering the cork with sealing wax. Then burv the 
 bottles to the neck, in a box of sand or earth placed in a cool 
 cellar. The fruit may thus be kept for almost any length of 
 time, in as good condition as when gathered from the bushes. 
 
 Currant Pudding. — Put a layer of pastry in a dish, fill it 
 with ripe currants, and cover them with a top crust. Boil for 
 one hour, at the end of which time you are to remove the top 
 crust, for tlie purpose of putting in butter, sugar, nutmeg and 
 cloves. The pudding is to be eaten with hard sauce. 
 
 Currant Shrub. — To one pint of strained currant juice, put 
 one pound of sugar. Boil together gently for eight or ten 
 minutes, and tlien set the syrup in a place where it will cool. 
 When lukewarm, add to every pint a wine-glassful of French 
 brandy. Bottle tight, and keep in a cool apartment. A little 
 of the shrub, mixed with water, makes a veiy refreshing drink 
 for hot weather. 
 
154 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 Currant Jelhj. — The best way of extraciiiij llie juice, is to 
 put the ripe fruit intoaglass or earthern jar, whicli is suspended 
 in a kettle of boiUng water, and cook it partially. Then put 
 it into a flannel bag, and let the juice sti'ain through without 
 squeezing. To every quart add two and a half pounds of 
 white sugar, with the b'jaten white of an e'^'^. Boil the syrup 
 very gently, skimming it all the while until it becomes clear 
 and thick. The proper time for taking it from the fire, will be 
 indicated by its dropping in a solid lump to the bottom of a 
 tumbler of cold water. Fill the glasses, and let the jelly be 
 exposed to the sun for a few days, as it will thereby be much 
 improved. There are a great number of receipts for making 
 currant jelly, and this one is believed to be among the very 
 best. 
 
 Carravi Wine. — Gather the ripe fruit, when it is perfectly 
 dry, and extract the juice by pressure, or in the manner above 
 indicated. For every gallon of juice, allow one gallon of water 
 and three pounds of good, clean sugar. Dissolve the sugar ih 
 the water, and, after removing all scum which may rise, add 
 the liquid to the currant juice. Mix them well together in a 
 keg or cask, but do not close it tight until fernjentation has 
 ceased, which will not be under a week. Then add one gill of 
 French brandy to every two gallons of the liquor, and close 
 the cask tight. In three or four weeks, the wine will be fit 
 for bottling. In six months' time, it will be good for use, but its 
 quality is improved by age. 
 
 DILL. — Anetham graveolens. 
 
 Dill is a hardy biennial, and a native of Spain and Portu- 
 gal. It somewliat resembles the common fennel, but is smaller, 
 and has a less agreeable odor. It is mentioned in the original 
 Greek of St. Matthew's gospel, but has been translated anises 
 which is an entirely ditterent plant. A bed containing twelve 
 square feet is quite large enough for any family. 
 
DICTIONARY. I55 
 
 Culture. — The plants mupt be raised from seed, — one 
 half ounce of which will be sufficient for a bed of the size above 
 mentioned. Sow in drills one foot apart, and cover about 
 one third of an inch deep. This is- best done in autumn, soon 
 after the seed ripens, because it is then not only mure likely 
 to germinate, but it produces stronger plants, than where sown 
 in the following April. The soil must be kept light, and free 
 from weeds. A little water will greatly assist the vegetation 
 of the seed. When the plants have attained a growth of thi-ee 
 or four weeks, they must be thinned out in the drill to dis- 
 tances of at least ten inches ; or otherwise, they will be ren- 
 dered weak and spindling. The leaves may be gathered as 
 they are wanted for use. 
 
 For seed, — the stalks shall be suffered to run up uncheck- 
 ed. The seed-vessels should be picked as soon as they are 
 fully ripened, and before they have a cliance to waste their 
 contents upon the ground. This caution is seldom necessary, 
 however, for such are the habits of the plant, that a bed, once 
 made, will perpetuate itself. 
 
 Use. — The seeds and leaves of dill, on account of their 
 warm, aromatic taste, are much used in pickles, and frequently 
 to give zest to soups and sauces. The seeds are well known 
 to have some medicinal virtues ; yielding a volatile oil and a 
 distilled water, which are excellent carminatives. 
 
 EGG-PLANT, — Solanum melongena. 
 
 Having been brought from Africa, this plant is known to 
 many cultivators as the Guinea Squash ; but, its most common 
 name is derived from the resemblance which the partly-grown 
 fruit of the white variety bears to a pullet's agg. "We cannot 
 call it a popular vegetable, although it appears to be grad- 
 ually working itself into favor. Its history is somewhat like 
 that of the tomato, which was little regarded at first, but has 
 
J 56 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 acquired for itself a deservedly high reputation. The peculiar 
 taste of the fruit, even when cooked in the most approved 
 manner, is very disagreeable to some persons ; and by many 
 gardeners it is raised more for its ornamental appearance in 
 their grounds, than for any particular value wliich they may 
 attach to it in the culinary department. By others, however, 
 it is esteemed as a great delicacy. It is now well known in 
 the markets of cities, for wliich it is cultivated in large gardens 
 situated in the vicinity. Even if it be desirable on no other 
 account, it helps make a variety upon a table. Of the 
 several sorts commonly grown, tlje Long Purple has such 
 valuable qualities as recommend it in particular for family 
 use. But there are other kinds, — like the Smooth-stemmed 
 Purple, and the Prickly-stemmed Purple, — which are respect- 
 ively worthy of notice. 
 
 Culture. — Where earliness is an object, the seed may. be 
 sown in a small hot-bed, at the very commencement of spring-. 
 One ounce of seed will afford between three and four tliousand 
 plants. The heat of the bed need not be very powerful, — 
 only sufficient to bring the plants forward for their removal to 
 the open ground by the first of May. It is Vv^ith them as with 
 all other vegetables started under glass by artiiicial warmth,— 
 their growth should be so regular and moderate, as to give 
 the leaves a healthy, green color, instead of a pale, sickly 
 yellow. Apply water in small quantities, at all times when 
 the earth appears dry. The saslies may be kept closed until 
 the you!ig plants have fairly made their appearance, after 
 which, air ouglit to be aelmitted freely at midday. In all 
 severe weather, as well as at night, a slight additional pro- 
 tection of litter or mats is necessary, to prevent too great a 
 re(kiction of the temperature within the frame. 
 
 When the plants are about three inches high, tiiey must 
 be thinned out to distances of three or four inches ; and those 
 which are pulled, can be set in small pots, to be plunged up 
 
DICTIONARY. 157 
 
 to the rim la the mold of another bed. They should be re* 
 moved to a warm V)order, where the soil is rich and mellow, 
 Bomewhere about the middle of May, or earlier in the month 
 if the season be sufficiently mild. They would suffer not a 
 little from being exposed to a late frost, or even continued 
 cool weather. Put them in rows, two and a half feet apart 
 each way, so that they can have ample room for tlie develop- 
 ment of their leaves. Water them abundantly at the time of 
 transplanting, and for a few days afterward shelter them at 
 noonday from the hot sun. The after-culture is simply to 
 make a good use of the hoe, keeping the soil light and clean. 
 When the stems are a foot high, they need the support of a 
 little earth drawn up around them. Fruit may be expected 
 in July or August. 
 
 For a crop to mature later in the season, or where early 
 plants cannot be obtained from a hot-bed, the seed may be 
 sown about the end of April. The bed should be in a warm, 
 sheltered situation, protected from cold winds, and having a 
 fine, fertile soil. The plants may be removed to their final 
 location some five or six Weeks afterwards, either at evening, 
 or on a damp, cloudy day. 
 
 Use.— As we have already remarked, the fruit of the egg- 
 plant is not held in general esteem. Like the tomato, which ia 
 seldom relished at first, it will, after a few trials, be thought 
 very palatable. We know, from personal observation, that its 
 excellence depends altogether upon the manner in wliich it may 
 be cooked. It is used in soups, and stews, but is conmionly 
 cut into thin slices and fried, for which we give the following 
 
 Jleccipt.—^The fruit contains an acrid juice, which ought to 
 be removed before cooking. For this purpose, pile up the slices 
 on a plate, with layers of salt, and raise one side of the ph tc, 
 so that the juice may run off without affecting the taste of the 
 lower slice. After remaining so for about half an hour, thev 
 14 
 
158 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 should be well washed in fresh water, and then fried quite 
 brown in batter. 
 
 ENDIVE. — '■Oichoriwn endivia. 
 
 OriginpJly of eastern Asia, the endive has been known in 
 Europe since the sixteenth century. It is a hardy annual, and 
 was introduced into Great Britain about the year 1548. In 
 severa-l countries of Europe it is much esteemed, particularly 
 in France, — where it is prepared for the table in many differ- 
 ent ways. It is there thought to be very wholesome and nu> 
 tritious. There are three varieties, viz. :— -the Green Curled,—^ 
 the White Curled, — -and the Broad-leaved Batavian. As to 
 their respective merits ; — the Green Curled, which is considered 
 excellent for salads, is also the hardiest, and, therefore, the 
 best adapted for the main crop; the White Curled, on account 
 of its tenderness, is better suited for summer and autumn use ; 
 while the Batavian is thought preferable to either of the 
 others, for soups and stews. 
 
 Culture. — Tlie endive is best pleased with an open situa- 
 tion, and a soil which is deep and mellow, dry and rich. That 
 it should be both deep and mellow, is necessary as much for 
 the accommodation of the long roots, as to secure thorough drain- 
 age, without which the plants cannot flourish. This last par- 
 ticular is so important for those plants Avhich stand out through 
 the winter, tliat some cultivators even go to the expense of 
 founding the bed upon a substratum of stones and small 
 blocks of wood. 
 
 The principal season for committing the seed to tlie ground, 
 is between the first and fifteenth of July. Small sowings may 
 be made from time to time* during the two previous months, 
 but the plants will mostly run to stalks, without attaining a 
 vigorous growth for blanching. Towards the first of August, a 
 final sowing can be made for late winter and spring supplies. 
 
DICTIONARY. 159 
 
 After the soil has been thoroughly spaded^ open small drills 
 lengthwise of the bed, one foot apart, and about four inches 
 deep. Then sow the seed — one ounce of wliich may be ex- 
 pected to yield five thousand plants, — in the bottom of the 
 drills, and cover it thinly. It is advisable, during dry weather 
 to give a little water now and then until the plants become 
 firmly established. When they have attained a height of two 
 inches, thin them out in the drills so that they may stand 
 twelve inches apart. Or, where another bed is wanted, this 
 first thinning should be only partial, and the strongest plants 
 be allowed to remain until they are five or six inches high, 
 when they are to be removed to trenches, and set twelve inches 
 apart therein. Water must be applied in a moderate quan- 
 tity at the time of transplanting, and the application repeated 
 every evening, as long as any danger exists of the roots being 
 injured by the heat or protracted drought. The ground is to 
 be kept open and free from weeds, at all times during the grow- 
 ing season. 
 
 When the plants are about ten inches high, and appear per- 
 fectly healthy, the process of blanching may be commenced. 
 Select a dry afternoon, when the leaves are free from moist- 
 ure, — which would cause them to decay, or otherwise injure 
 their appearance, — and gather them together in a close bunch, 
 around which matting is to be wound several times, bringing it 
 to a point at tlie top in such a manner as will prevent the ad- 
 mission of rain. Finally, some earth is to be drawn up against 
 the plant, in order to save it from being broken down by the 
 wind. To avoid the trouble of tying up each plant separately 
 in tliis way, some gardeners cover them with inverted pots, or 
 a roof, formed by two boards set at right angles, placed length- 
 wise of the trenches, and banked with mold to exclude the 
 light.* In the hot season, tying up is considered much the better 
 plan ; but, at other times, covering the plants presei ves while 
 it blanches them. If the weather continue w arm and dry, 
 the blanching will be efiected in a week or ten days ; but, if 
 
160 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 otherwise, not under a fortniglit or tliree weeks. Tlie plant 
 should be taken up soon after the process is completed, or it 
 will rot, particularly during a long rain. 
 
 The reader will, of course, inqun-e how the plants are to be 
 protected through the winter. They may be taken up about 
 the beginning of November, each set in a ball of dirt, and placed 
 in a box of sand, in a cellar or shed, where they will continue in 
 a tolerably good state for a month or six weeks. But the best 
 mode, however, is to take them all up at that time, and plant 
 them, six or eight inches apart, on a bank of light earth, sloping 
 to the south. This bank is to be sheltered, by a cold frame and 
 shutters, or by bent hoops and mats. The additional protection 
 of leaves or litter, may be required during rigorous weather, but 
 on every mild, pleasant day, air must be admitted freely, in order 
 to prevent the appearance of disease among the plants. Blanch 
 them as wanted for use, in the manner above described, with 
 the precaution not to tie them up when in a frozen state. 
 
 For seed, — allot some of the most healthy and perfect 
 plants that remain in spring, and set them out, eighteen 
 inches apart, on the "south side of a fence. Or, you can sow 
 the seed in April, and remove the plants to another bed, as 
 soon as they are five or six inches high. The flower-stems 
 ought to be supported by stakes, and the seed-vessels to be 
 gathered as they successively ripen. Lay them on a cloth, 
 where they can get perfectly dry before being thi-eshed. 
 
 Use. — The endive is cultivated for its head of leaves, 
 which, after being blanched to deprive them of a certain bitter 
 taste, are used in several different forms. The French eat 
 them raw, stewed, boiled, fried and pickled ; but they are most 
 commonly dressed in the form of a salad. When boiled, they 
 are said to be an effectual remedy for^the jaundice. They 
 never disagree with the stomach, but, on the contrary, are con- 
 sidered cool and refreshing. The root, when roasted and 
 
DICTIONARY. 161 
 
 ground, is said to be good mixed with coffee, giving it a fra- 
 grant taste, and greatly increasing its exliilarating qualities. 
 
 EscALOT, OR Eschalot. — See SHALLOT. 
 
 FENNEL. — Anethmn foeniculum. 
 
 A well known ai'oniatic perennial. It is a native of Italy, 
 and has become a tenant of most European gardens. The 
 stem is tall, bearing umbels of small, yellow flowers. By do- 
 mestication, the seeds lose their acrid properties, and acquire 
 an agreeable flavor, which makes them a popular medicine 
 with the poor. 
 
 Culture. — The fennel will be found to flourish in almost 
 any kind of soil, although it appears to be longest lived upon 
 a dry formation. It is by no means particular in regard to the 
 exposure. Sow the seed in autumn, soon after it is ripened, or 
 early in the fi)llowing spring. One quat ter of an ounce will 
 be enough for a piece of ground containing twelve square feet 
 Sow in shallow drills, one foot apart, and cover about one third 
 of an inch deep. "When the plants are three inches high, thin 
 them out in the drill to distances of ten inches. Oi", a planta- 
 tion can be made with the offsets of old roots, in spring, sum- 
 mer or autimm. Water should be freely applied every other 
 day, until it is ascertained that they have taken a firm foot- 
 hold. One advantage of making such a planfation is, that it 
 comes into immediate bearing, No cultivation will be neces- 
 sary, other than the occasional use of the hoe. To prevent the 
 plants going to seed, the stems should be cut down as often as 
 they manifest a disposition to flower, and this will cause a 
 young growth of leaves. The fennel is always inclined to 
 perpetuate itself, and v\hen a bed is once formed, it will re- 
 main in good ortler for many years ; indeed, such are the habits 
 
 14* 
 
152 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 of the plant, that it may be advisable not to permit the forma- 
 tion of seed, unless it be wanted for some particular purpose. 
 For seed, — allow some of the best stalks to run up and 
 flower. They will bear abundantly in autumn. Put it in pa- 
 per bags, and keep in a cool, dry apartment. 
 
 Use. — Fennel is highly prized in European kitchens, but as 
 yet it has attained little popularity in this country. The young 
 stalks are used in salads, soups and fish sauces, as well as for 
 a garnish to dishes. The Italians blanch them like celery, by 
 which means their strong taste is destroyed, and they are then 
 eaten with oil, pepper and vinegar. The seeds are employed 
 in medicine as a carminative. 
 
 GARLIC. — Allium sativum. 
 
 Garlic is a hardy perennial, found growing naturally in Sic- 
 ily and some other parts of southern Europe which border on 
 the Mediterranean. It Tjelongs to the Allium family, and is, 
 therefore, nearly connected with the common onion. The bo- 
 tanical term is said to be derived from the Celtic all, which 
 signified hot or burning. Garlic has been extensively culti- 
 vated for domestic purposes, for at least three hundred years, 
 having been introduced into England in 1548. The root is a 
 compound bulb, consisting of a dozen or more small bulbs, 
 called cloves, which are enveloped in a single membrane ; the 
 stem run« to the height of about two feet ; while the leaves are 
 long and narrow. The whole plant has a powerful fetid odor, 
 and a sharp, acrid taste, which are very unpleasant to those 
 persons who are unaccustomed to them. It seems to have 
 been worshipped by some nations — as, for example, the Egyp- 
 tians ; and detested by others — as by the ancient Greeks. We 
 cannot say that it is much esteemed either in this country or 
 in England. It is not common in family gardens. 
 
/ 
 
 DICTIONARY 
 
 163 
 
 CuLTUTiE. — It is proj)agated by the cloves, or sub-divisions 
 of the bulbous root. Althougli very hardy, and grown easily on 
 almost every kind of soil, still it has a preference for one that 
 is dry, mellow, and rich — but not rank from the recent addi- 
 tion of fresh dung. Little preparation is necessary. Set the 
 cloves, in early spring, in rows about six inches apart each 
 way, and to the depth of two inches. As the root end should 
 in every ca^e be do^vnward, the best method of planting, is to 
 take a clove between the thumb and forefinger, and push it 
 gently into the soil. 
 
 The after-culture is simply to keep the surface open and 
 cleaa . Some of the bulbs may be drawn from time to time as 
 they are wanted for use, yet the principal part of the crop 
 intended for preservation through the winter, should be al- 
 lowed to remain until it has come to maturity. This will be 
 indicated by the leaves turning yellow, and, in the middle 
 states, occurs generally about the beginning of August. In 
 harvesting, pull up the bulbs by the stalks, and let them lie 
 exposed to the sun for a few hours ; after which, they may be 
 tied in bundles, and put away in a cool, airy apartment for 
 safe keeping. They can be preserved until the following 
 spring, without any difficulty. 
 
 Use. — Several valuable and curious properties are ascribed 
 to this plant. In some countries, it is used extensively as a 
 seasoning for food ; — thus, among all classes of society in the 
 southern parts of Europe, it enters into the composition of 
 nearly every dish for the table. In England and the United 
 States, however, it is by no means a favorite, as its strong, 
 nauseating smell is repulsive to our more refined taste. Garlic 
 is, likewise, celebrated for its medicinal virtues. It forms an 
 excellent expectorant, and has been administered in a great 
 variety of diseases, such as hysteria, obstructions, dropsy, cu- 
 taneous eruptions, deafness, etc. The juice is said to be the 
 best cement known for mending broken glass and china. 
 
1-64 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY.— Kibes grossularia. 
 
 England seems peculiarly .adapted, by the coolness and 
 raoLstuie of its climate, to the successful culture of this fine 
 fruit. In Lancashire and the adjoining counties, there are an- 
 nual meethigs of the gooseberry growers, at whicli prizes, rang- 
 ing in value from ten shillings to as many pounds sterlmg, 
 are awarded among the exliibitors. It is true, that the size 
 and weight of the berry are, as a general thing, considered of 
 greater importance by the judges, than its excellence for culi- 
 nary purposes. An account of each meeting, giving full de- 
 scriptions of the prize sorts, is afterwards published in a small 
 volume called "The Manchester Gooseberry Book.'" In its 
 wild state, as found in the northern part of Europe, the berry 
 is half an itich m diameter, and weighs only one quarter of an 
 ounce ; but under the influence of high culture, it has in some 
 cases attained a diameter of two inches, with a weight of one 
 ounce and a half Such is the effect of horticultural exhibi- 
 tions. 
 
 Although thus successful in Great Britain, the foreign 
 gooseberry, owing to the difference in climate, cannot be nat- 
 uralized in the southern part of Europe, or of the United 
 States. Indeed, the crop often fliils in what are called the 
 northern states. We have several native varieties, which 
 undoubtedly might be made worthy of attention, as being bet- 
 ter suited to oiu" long, oppressively hot summers, than any 
 which could be imported from England. A result so desirable 
 should lead to the thorough investigation of the subject by our 
 intelligent gardeners. We believe that nothing but skill and 
 perseverance is required, to accomplish as much in this coun- 
 try, as has been already accomplished by the humble cot- 
 tagers of Lanca>hire. 
 
 Tile number of varieties which liave been produced in 
 England, is really surprising ; of the thousands raised from 
 6eed, the catalogue of the London Horticultural Society enu- 
 
DICTIONARY. lg-5 
 
 merates one luindred and forty -nine that are "wortliy of notice ; 
 •while Liiulley gives a hst of over seven hundred wliich have 
 been distinguished at various times by prizes. The following 
 sorts are certainly among the very best : — of the reds, the 
 Crown Bob, — the Red Warrington. — HovgJitori's Seedling, — 
 — and the Champagne ; — of the yellows, the Early Sulphur, — 
 Gortons Viper, — the Yellow Cliamjjagne, — and the Golden 
 Fleece ; — of the greens, Parkinsons Laurel, — the Green Wal- 
 nut, — the Jolly Tar, — and the Jolly Angler ; — and, finally, of 
 the wliites, the Whitesmith, — Wellingtoti's Glory, — the Bright 
 Venus, — and Cromptons Queen of Sheha. The difficulty of 
 making any selection like the above, will be readily appreciated 
 by the reader. 
 
 Culture. — New varieties are raised from seed, but the old 
 establi:^hed sorts are propagated by cuttings, in much the same 
 way as the currant. These cuttings are taken in autumn, just 
 before the leaves fall, or as soon as the frost is out of the 
 ground in spring, from the strongest and straightest shoots of 
 the last season's growth. They should be of healthy appear- 
 ance, and about twelve inches long. If you propose trauiing 
 them as standards, you must cut out, with a sharp knife, all 
 the buds, except three or four at the upper end, in order to 
 prevent the appearance of troublesome suckers around the 
 main stem. Experience has shown, however, that the bushes 
 will be longer lived, and much more productive, when per- 
 mitted to sucker moderately, than if the whole support of the 
 top be drawn through a single channel. By a judicious system 
 of pruning, the bearing wood will be frequently renewed, and 
 the sap will not be wasted upon that which has become old 
 and barren. The cuttings should be inserted about half their 
 length, in a bed of rich, moist soil, situated on the north side of 
 a fence, or in some shaded spot. The dirt is to be firmly- 
 pressed around them, and again in the following spring, if they 
 appear to have been at all lifted by the frost. 
 
IQQ GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 In the second jear after, they will probably have become 
 BO well rooted that they may then be removed to their final 
 location. Being exceedingly sen.^itive to heat and drought, 
 they require a soil Avhich is at once deep and mt)ist. It ought 
 to be sub-oiled or trenched, before they ave tak(m from the 
 Aiui'sery bed. Richness is also an essential requisite, and, in 
 idditiou to a liberal application of dung at the outset, a gener- 
 ous top-dressing should be dug in around the roots in every 
 succeeding autumn. The situation must be open, and away 
 from the injurious influences of trees. It has been said on 
 good authority, that when the bushes are planted near a white- 
 washed fence, they are nut so liable to suffer from the mildew, 
 as they would be in an open compartment. Transplant dur- 
 ing any mild, pleasant Aveather in autumn or spring. To pre- 
 vent their shade affecting vegetables grown in their neighbor- 
 hood, it is a good plan to put them on the sides of tlie principal 
 paths, or in a border that is not wanted for other purposes. 
 Let them stand in rows, between three and four feet apart 
 The ground should always be kept in good tilth, — light and 
 porous, as well as free from weeds and grass. 
 
 Th >rough pruning is considered very essential to the success- 
 ful growth of the gooseberry. It is best performed in autumn, 
 when the leaves have fallen, and the position of the branches is 
 thereby better exposed, or at any time during the Avinter and 
 spring, before the buds get to be much swollen. The rules to be 
 followed in pruning, are learned only from personal observation 
 or experience ; and we can but suggest a few leading hints, 
 the application of which must, in every case, be governed by- 
 sound judgment and discretion. Old and unproductive wood 
 should first be removed, as that absorbs sap without ren- 
 dering any equivalent ; while the young shoots are to be 
 shortened and reduced in number, so as to admit the light and 
 air freely to every leaf, — without which tlie perfection of the 
 fruit cannot be expected. With a little practice in the use of 
 the knife, this winter pruning can be so performed as to give 
 
DICTIONARY. 1 67 
 
 the bushes a very neat appearance, and to secure an abundant 
 crop m the coming season. At the same time, the ground ought 
 to receive a generous apphcation of manure, to ensure its fer- 
 tihty, and add to the security of the plants against disease. 
 
 The " mildew," as it is termed, proves the most serious ob- 
 stacle to be encountered by the American gardener. It does 
 not exist in the cool climate of England, and is only occasionally 
 known in the extreme northern parts of our own country. But, 
 in the middle states, as we go towards the south, we find the 
 crop very uncertain. When partly grown, it suddenly becomes 
 coated with a grey mildew or scurf, which in a short time de- 
 stroys its value. The berries should be picked as soon as may 
 be after the appearance of the disease, and either used in the 
 cultivator's own kitchen, or carried to market. Hoav is this 
 obstacle to be overcome ? Being local and confined to particu* 
 lar districts, it never can be entirely. All remedies that have 
 been proposed, are partial in their effects. High culture — or, 
 keeping the soil rich and in good tilth, accompanied by a judi. 
 cious system of pruning, — is most important. Wood ashes are 
 sometimes sifted on the leaves, while lime and sulphur are dug 
 into tlie soil. The most eflScient remedy is covering the ground 
 with a layer, ten or twelve inches in thickness, of salt hay or 
 sea-weed. In places where these cannot be procured, litter or 
 straw can be used in their stead, by being sprinkled with small 
 quantities of fine salt or brine. Spent tan around the bushes 
 is good to prevent the attacks of the destructive caterpillar. 
 
 Use. — Tlie fruit is deservedly held in high esteem for culi- 
 nary purposes. In fact, its name is derived from the circum- 
 stance of its having been in olden times considered an indispen- 
 Bable accompaniment to a green goose. In its unripe state, 
 early in the season, it is made into sauces, tarts, pies, puddings 
 etc. ; while, when fully matured, some of the choice varieties 
 are very acceptable for dessert, and make good preserves. In 
 every form it is wholesome, as well as pleasant to the taste. It 
 
168 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 makes a veiy excellent wine, "which is said to be so near 
 equal to Champagne, that it often passes for tliat among inex- 
 perienced j udges. 
 
 To preserve (jreengooseberfies. — Fill a bottle with the green 
 fruit, and let it stand a few minutes in a vessel of boiling water. 
 Cork and seal it immediately after being taken from the water, 
 and keep it in a cool cellar, with the neck downward. 
 
 Gooseberry Fie. — Pick the heads and stems from unripe 
 gooseberries, and rub them with a towel for the purpose of 
 cleaning them. Fill a dish with them, and add a little water, 
 together with sufficient brown sugar to correct their acidity. 
 Cover with puff paste, and bake for upAvards of an hour. Some 
 persons stew the fruit in sugar before putting it in the plates, 
 80 that it requires less baking. 
 
 GRAPE.— Ft^ia. 
 
 Scripture abounds in allusions to the vine. The excellence 
 of its fruit, and the unrivalled beverage which can be made 
 therefrom, led to its cultivation iu the earliest ages of an- 
 tiquity. By a figurative mode of expression, it was known aa 
 the type of plenty autl the symbol of liappiness. Thus, in the 
 description of the peaceful and flourishing state of the king- 
 dom of Israel under Solomon, we find it recorded that " 3n- 
 dah and L-^rael dwelt safely, every mati under his vine and 
 under his fig tree, from Dan even to Beersheba." And it waa 
 a curse pronounced upon the same people for their disobe- 
 dience, that they " sliould plant vineyards and dress them, but 
 they should neither drink of the wine, nor gather the grapes, 
 for the worms should cat them." The ingratitude, unprofit- 
 ableness and idolatry of the Jewish Church, are represented aa 
 a vineyard yielding the disappohited proprietor only wild 
 and poisonous fruit ; Avhile its ruin is set fortli under the 
 Bimile of a vineyard laid waste. Two of the most beautiful 
 parables left for our instruction by Jesus Christ, are drawn 
 
DICTIONARY. j^g 
 
 from the appearance and culture of tlie same plant. In one, 
 He represents Himself as the son of the Lord of the vineyard, 
 scut to collect the fruits thereof; and in the other, as the true 
 \me, His people being the branches, and. His Father the 
 Husbandman. , 
 
 A distinguished writer upon the management of the grape, 
 ppeaks in the following enthusiastic language : — " Of all the 
 productions of the vegetable world, which the skill and in- 
 genuity of man have rendered conducive to his comfort, and 
 to the enlargement of his sphere of enjoyments, and the in- 
 crease of his pleasurable gratifications, the vme stands forward 
 as pre-eminently conspicuous. Its quickness of growth, — the 
 great age to which it will live, so great, indeed, as to be un- 
 known, — its almost total exemption from all those adverse 
 contingencies which blight and diminish the produce of other 
 fruit-bearing trees, — its astonishing vegetative powers, — its 
 wonderful fertility, — and its delicious fruit, applicable to so 
 many purposes, and agreeable to all palates, in all its varied 
 shapes, — combine to mark it out as one of the greatest bless- 
 ings bestowed by Providence to promote the comfort and en- 
 joyments of the human race." 
 
 The grapes of the old world are all descended from the 
 Vitis vhiifera of Persia, but the natives of this country are 
 distinct species, which have been greatly improved by domes- 
 tication. The foreign kinds are not suited to this climate, and 
 can be grown with success only under glass. The best native 
 varieties are — the Isabella, — the Catawba, — the Bland, — the 
 Ohio, — and the Elsinburgh. The first two are placed by 
 general consent at the head of the list, and their good quali- 
 ties are such as to recommend them in particular to the favor- 
 able notice of the farmer and small gardener. Common and 
 popular as tliey are, we cannot but Avish that they were even 
 more so. We would that every cultivator of tlie soil, how- 
 ever humble may be his position in society, should be able, in 
 the language of Holy Writ, to " sit under his own vine," and 
 35 
 
170 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 to be gratified by its fruit. No man who has a yard of ground, 
 with a naked fence, or the side of a building, at liis disposal, 
 should be without this source of pleasure and comfort. It can 
 be obtained from a nurseryman at the cost of a few shillings, 
 and the expense of its subsequent cultivation is too trifling to 
 be thought of for a moment. Its management, which proves 
 a bugbear to so many, is but little more difficult than the 
 management of a turnip patch, or a hill of Indian corn. We 
 shall offer a few hints upon the subject, and refer the reader 
 who wislies farther information, to the numerous excellent 
 treatises which may be found in the bookstores. 
 
 Culture. — In the propagation of tlie old varieties, we 
 have succeeded best by making lai/cra of young wood, some 
 time during the month of June. The shoots are bent down 
 into little trenches, wliere they are confined by forked slicks, 
 and covered with a little mellow earth. The occasiom^l ap- 
 plicatitjn of water while the weather continues dry, will induce 
 the speedy formation of roots. In the latter part of autumn, 
 the stem connected with the parent stalk may be cut, so that 
 the new vine'^an be removed to any place where it is intended 
 to remain. Propagation by cuttings is more easy, but less cer- 
 tain. Tliey should be about a foot long each, having three buds, 
 and planted in a sloping direction, with one end just above 
 the surface. Early spring is the proper time for the opera- 
 tion, and the soil ought to be rich and mellow, as well as in 
 rather a shaded locality. As the vines are apt to bleed when 
 cut in spring, take off the cuttings in autumn, and keep them 
 through the winter in the cellar, covered by a little light soil. 
 Making use of eyes is a favorite method, especially for scarce 
 varieties. In February or March, take some of the last year's 
 shoots, and cut tliem into pieces two inches long, with an eye 
 in the middle of each. Split them, and plant the halves con- 
 taining the eyes jinder glass, or in a warm window. Cover 
 them about half an inch deep, and be sure that the eye is up- 
 
DICTIONARY. 17| 
 
 jT<?rmost. The vines can be removed to the open garden, as 
 soon as tliey acquhe sufficient size to bear transpl.mting. 
 
 The next thought will be regarduig the situation. In vine- 
 yards, it is customary to tie the vines up to large stakes, wliich 
 are set in rows, eight feet apart each way. In gardens, they 
 are placed by the fence, or by an upright trellis not over eight 
 feet high. They are often permitted to run up the sides of 
 buildings, which are thereby relieved of their unseemly naked- 
 ness. The best native grapes we have ever tasted, were 
 picked from a vine that completely covers the south side of a 
 dwelling-house, where it has borne enormous quantities of 
 fruit for many years past, and bids fair to be as productive for 
 many years to come. The situation ought to be neitlier in a 
 valley, nor on a high, bleak hill ; a moderate elevation, such 
 as we have in another place recommended for the general 
 ■vrants of a garden, is most suitable. The exposure should be 
 open, for although the shade of trees or buildings may induce 
 luxuriance of growth, yet the crop will be smaller and more 
 uncertain than where it has the full benefit of light and air. 
 The best soil is one which is at the same time " dry and light, 
 deep and rich." A dry substratum is so essential to the pros- 
 perity of some varieties, that where they are cultivated, gar- 
 deners frequently take the trouble to make an artificial bed of 
 bones, blocks of wood, and stones, at the depth of two or three 
 feet below the surface. 
 
 A certain degree of fertility in the soil is necessary to the 
 health and continued productiveness of the vine. To use a 
 homely comparison, the vine is somewhat like a cow which is 
 fastened in her stall, and can get nothing to eat except what 
 her master puts before her. If she be regularly fed, and with 
 food suited to her wants, she will keep in good condition, or 
 perhaps even improve in flesh, and will yield a generous re- 
 turn of milk. If she be neglected at times, or be not allowed a 
 reasonable supply of hay and r<wts, the quantity of hor milk 
 gradually decreases, while her bones seem disposed to force 
 
172 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 their way through the skin that covers them. If she be alto- 
 gether neglected, her death is a natural consequence ; but, on 
 the contrary, if her owner should feed her too liberally, she 
 would soon become so fleshy as to be unfit for the pail. It is 
 6o with the vine. The roots must have a proper supply of 
 nutriment given them, or they cannot maintain a luxuriant ' 
 growth of foliage, and mature a crop that is valuable alike for 
 its size and the excellence of its flavor. When they have ex- 
 hausted the soil within their reach, they are like the cow tied 
 to an empty manger. But should they be fed injudiciously, 
 with food not adapted to their wants, or at unseasonable times, 
 the fruit will be found of inferior quaUty. 
 
 The conclusion is obvious ; — the cultivator, after having in 
 the first place selected a favorable soil, and spaded it deeply, 
 must afterwards give it regular applications of manure, in 
 order to ensure its fertility and the vigor of the vine. Animal 
 excrements applied in large quantities, are known to affect 
 the rich flavor of the fruit, and sometimes to cause the loss of 
 the crop. They should, therefore, be composted, or else given 
 frequently, and in small doses. Ashes, bone-dust and soap- 
 suds from the wash-room, are very excellent fertilizers. Yet, 
 nothing is so good for the purpose, as the annual trimmings 
 buried near the roots, as they will decay, and furnish all that is 
 required for a new growth. This important fact was dis- 
 covered by certain poor peasants, who were unable to pur- 
 chase majiure. We have for a long time been in the habit of 
 applying soap-suds to the roots on washing days, and a solution 
 of whale oil soap on one or two other days of each week, 
 during the sunnner season. It is only by the pursuit of such 
 a liberal policy that we can hope for our reward. 
 
 Although in its wild state the grape vine attains a pro- 
 digious size, the stem being perhaps three feet in circumfer- 
 ence, and the branches two hundred feet long,: — it is well 
 known that when under cultivation, a judicious system of 
 pruning is conducive to its general health and productiveness 
 
DICTIONARY. 173 
 
 When suffered to extend its foliage according to its own 
 pleasure, but little dependence can be placed upon realizing 
 either profit or satisfaction from its fruit. While all persons 
 are ready to admit the value, — nay, the actual necessity, — of 
 such pruning, there is much uncertainty in regard to the best 
 mode of doing it. Thus Buist has aptly remarked, that " fre- 
 quently so great a mystery is thrown around these simple at- 
 tentions, that the timid are afraid even to touch the vine with 
 the knife ; while others, whose boldness goes farther than 
 their knowledge, cut right and left with considerable dex- 
 tei"ky, feeling satisfied if they show that the wood is at least 
 cut off." Pruning is so intimately connected with the manner 
 of training the branches, that we shall explain our ideas con- 
 cerning both, by following the growth of the vine from the 
 time it leaves the nursery until it comes into bearing. 
 
 When it is planted by the trellis, cut it down to the lower 
 two buds or eyes, which may be permitted to form one shoot 
 in the coming season. Train this shoot in a perpendicular di- 
 rection, but, at the approach of winter, cut it down to fotir 
 buds. In the second summer, train up two shoots in the shape 
 of the letter Y, but at autumn take them down, and extend 
 them horizontally along the lower rail as far as desired. Thi'ee 
 or four feet on either side of the main stem is probably far 
 enougli, and a single vine will then occupy from six to eight 
 feet of the trellis. In the tliird year, four upright branches 
 shall be grown from the liorizontal arms, at equal distances 
 apart, and stopped as soon as they reach the upper lail. In the 
 fourth season, a few bunches of fruit can be allowed to perfect 
 themselves. Just so that the cultivator may be encouraged, and 
 feel that he is actually reaping some of the benefits of his in- 
 dustry. It is not advisable, however, to try the roots too se- 
 verely, or tliey will be less able to yield generously in subse- 
 quent years. They are still young, and must be permitted to 
 strengthen themselves. In the autumn, they shall be cut 
 down to the first bud from the horizontal arms. Four shoots 
 
 15* 
 
174 
 
 GARDENER'S TEXT -BOOK. 
 
 of the summer's growth are to remain to perfect fruit in the 
 fifth season, at the end of which they will be cut down in the 
 same manner, to make room for the four new branches, which 
 have sprung up in place of those cut down a year previous. 
 And so the gardener must proceed from year to year, cutting 
 out the old wood which has just done bearing, and leaving 
 young shoots to produce the next crop. 
 
 This long explanation will be better understood by refer- 
 ence to the accompanying Fig. 23, which represents the vine 
 at the end of the fourth year. The main stem is indicated 
 
 .^si^^^lSii^^P^^i^ 
 
 by the letter a; hb are the horizontal arms ; cccc are places 
 occupied by the four upright shoots which bore fruit and have 
 been cut down ; and dddd are the four branches of tlie sum- 
 mer's growth, which are expected to bear in the coming sea- 
 son. This is called the " renewal system," and is, undoubtedly, 
 the one best adapted for open air culture, because the circula- 
 tion of the sap is principally through young, vigorous wood, 
 rendering the whole plant healthy and productive. The fruit 
 is larger and better than where the " spur system" is followed, 
 
DICTIONARY. I75 
 
 although not so abundant. The most suitable time for pruning 
 is in November, but the general practice is to delay the oper- 
 ation until the mild days of February or IVIarch, about % 
 montli before the buds are likely to commence swelling. At mid- 
 summer, instead of pulling off leaves and cutting away good- 
 sized branches, as is so common, it will be only necessary to 
 pinch off the ends of the shoots, and, perhaps, to remove feeble 
 laterals, tiiat the whole strength of the roots may be expended 
 upon the perfection of the fruit. It is a great jijiece of folly to 
 strip the vine of its leaves, in order to expose the berries to 
 the sun, for every schoolboy knows that the foliage of a plant 
 is intended by natui-e to digest the sap, which then descends to 
 impart vigor to the whole system. Should too large a quan- 
 tity of fruit be set, it ought to be reduced early in tiie season ; 
 and this is particularly necessary with young vines, lest the 
 imperfectly established roots beeoiue cxliausted by overbear- 
 ing. 
 
 The devastations of vaiious insects may in a measure be 
 prevented, by means of large open-mouthed bottles, that are 
 half filled with sweetened vinegar and water, and then hung 
 lip in different parts of the trellises. Lice that gather upon 
 the ends of the teeider shoots to suck out the juices, should be 
 dipped into a weak solution of whale oil soap. Caterpillars 
 and worms are to be picked off by hand. The enemy most 
 to be dreaded is the rose bug, of which we liave given a short 
 description in the article upon the " Destruction of Vermin." 
 The only chance of saving the crop, is to go round among the 
 vines, several times a day during the season of tliat insect, and 
 quietly kiiuek every tiespasser into a cup of water or turpen- 
 tine. Endea,vor thus to " secure indemnity for the past, and 
 security for the future." Every measure of this kind must be 
 prosecuted diligently, and commenced as soon as the danger ia 
 discovered, or there can be little ho2:)€ of a crop. 
 
 Use. — Who ceeds to be told wliat an additioa to the des* 
 
176 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 sefrt, is a dish of fine grapes just picked from the vines ? As 
 a fruit, they can scarcely be surpassed for richness of flavor ; 
 and they are, moreover, wholesome for the stomach, as well as 
 palatable to the taste. Their use in particular cases of disease, 
 such as severe dysentery and pulmonary complaints, has been 
 attended with the most beneficial effects. When dried, they 
 are called raisins, and, in that form, are used extensively for 
 the dessert and in various prepared dishes. Tlie fermented 
 juice, or wine, has a world-wide reputation. In its pure state, 
 it is, undoubtedly, a very healthy and refreshing liquor ; but, 
 experience has long since shown, that even its moderate use 
 may result in the most melancholy consequences. The tem- 
 perance movement is a noble one, deserving the support of 
 every honest and intelligent citizen. 
 
 To preserve grapea through the winter. — Procure a tight 
 cask or barrel, and at the bottom put a layer of bran, which 
 has been thoroughly dried in an oven. Upon this place a 
 layer of grapes, gathered before they have become "dead 
 ripe," as it is termed. They should be perfectly dry, and care- 
 fully cleaned, by means of a light brush, of dirt, cobwebs and 
 insects. Then put on a second course of dried bran, then one 
 of grapes, and in this way fill up the barrel with layers of 
 bran and grapes alternately. Take good care that the bunches 
 are not crowded closely together, and that the top layer shall 
 be of bran. Head up the barrel very tight, to exclude the air 
 as completely as possible. Thus packed, grapes have been 
 kept in a first-rate state of preservation for nine months, or a 
 year. When they are taken up, their flavor will be much im- 
 proved, by cutting off the hardened end of the stems, and put- 
 ting them for a few moments in sweet wine. 
 
 HOP. — Humulus lupulus. 
 
 Mesue, a celebrated Arabian physician, who died about the 
 year 846, makes mention of the hop vine in his works ; and. 
 
DICTIONARY. 177 
 
 indeed, it seems to have been cultivated for an unknown pe- 
 riod. It did not attract attention in England, however, until 
 Bomewhere about the year 1525, when the Reformation was 
 in progress, as appears by the following doggerel : — 
 
 " Hops, heresy, pickerel and beer, 
 Were brought into England in one year." 
 
 And its value was at first so little understood, tliat in 1528 
 the Parliament was requested to prohibit its use, as an un- 
 wholesome weed wliich would spoil the taste of beer. Public 
 attention was attracted to the subject, and in less than half 
 a century afterward, a little work, called " A Perfecte 
 Platforme of a Hoppe Garden," was published by Rey- 
 nold Scott ; which gave, in addition to a full description of 
 the appearance and uses of the plant, curiously minute in- 
 structions for its propagation and management. This book 
 has become exceedingly rare, and is much prized by anti- 
 quarians. The number of acres in Great Britain devoted to 
 the culture of the hop has steadily increased ; in the year 
 1837, they amounted to over fifty -six thousand, but, in 1846, 
 the number fell to fifty -two thousand. The duties paid during 
 the latter year exceeded four hundred and forty-three thousand 
 pounds sterHng, or near two and a quarter millions of dollars. 
 These few statistics sliow the dignity and importance of the hop 
 in an agricultural point of view. In this country, it is raised to a 
 certain extent for exportation, while nearly every garden con- 
 tains a few vines for family use, two facts which will justify 
 tlie admission of the present article in a work of this character. 
 The hop belongs to the same family as the hemp and net- 
 tle. It is a native of Europe, Siberia, and North America, 
 and may be found growing spontaneously on the banks and 
 intervals of man}' of oar large rivers. The root is perennial, 
 giving out several herbaceous climbers ; the fruit is a sort of 
 cone, composed of membranous scales, each of which envelopes 
 & single seed- 
 
178 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 Culture. — The whole process, from the time of jjlanting 
 to the preparation of the crop for market, requires mucli expe- 
 rience and many precautions. The vine is tender, and the pro- 
 duce somewhat uncertain, — varying in quantity and quality, 
 according to the season and management. Tlie most favora- 
 ble soil is a deep, sandy loam, lying upon a dry substratum.- 
 Instances are recorded of the roots having been traced to the 
 depth of more than ten feet, which is certainly a goml I'easoii 
 for giving them plenty of room in which to extend themselves. 
 The soil ought to be finely pulverized, and made rich, if not 
 naturally so, by the liberal application of well rotted dung. 
 As regards exposure, the bed should be protected from severe 
 northerly winds, perhaps situated on a gentle declivity towards 
 the south-east. 
 
 The best mode of obtaining roots for a new plantation, 13 
 in early spring, to take a hoe and draw the earth from the old 
 stools. Then cut off as many of the last summer's shoots as 
 you deem necessaiy for your purpose. They should be about 
 eighteen inches long, and are usually known as " trimmings." 
 In making a large plantation, the ground is Jp be laid into 
 parallel rows six feet apart, and holes for the reception of the 
 roots marked out at the same distances from each other in the 
 rows. These holes may be two feet square, and one foot deep, 
 to be filled with good compost, or with the soil itself, if it be 
 sufficiently rich, after having been spaded fine and light. 
 Three roots shall be vallotted for each hole, and they are to be 
 / placed in this p)sition. They may be 
 Fig. 24. covered about six inches deep. A short 
 
 stake should be placed in the centre of 
 each hill. The soil is carefully cultivated 
 during the first year, and at intervals a 
 little is drawn up around the stems. 
 Tlie runners will probably climb the 
 poles without jissistance, but should any 
 be disposed to wander, bring them back, 
 
DICTIONARY. I79 
 
 and fasten tliem with twine or bass. In autumn, a little com- 
 post may be thrown upon the stools, to prevent their sujQFering 
 from frost during the winter. 
 
 In the second spring, the hills are to be examined, in order 
 to cut off the last year's shoots and suckers, nearly close to the 
 main roots. The trimmings can be dressed for the table like 
 asparagus, forming a very wholesome dish. A little rotten 
 manure or compost ouglit to be placed within reach of the 
 roots, in order to secure their vigorous growth. The. dirt is 
 then levelled over them to the depth of ten inches, and two 
 pole?, fourteen or eighteen feet high, are set firmly in each hilL 
 Thorough cultivation with the hoe, — or plough, m tlie case of a 
 large plantation, — should by no means be neglected, while 
 every care is taken to keep the runners upon the poles. This 
 course of treatment is to be pursued annually. 
 
 The vines will commence bearing in the second or third 
 season, according to circumstances. Select for this purpose 
 only such shoots as are stroni,^ and healthy, while the earliest 
 ones, generally weak and feeble, are buried in the lull to be- 
 come food for the others. Be careful not to overload the poles, 
 sior to lessen the crop by having too many vines growing from 
 a single hill. The time of harvesting is about the first of Sep- 
 tember, being six or eight weeks after ihe flowers have expand- 
 ed. They are in perfection when of a fine straw color, turning 
 to a brown, and should be immediately gathered ; because, if 
 suffered to get too ri|)e, they lose many of their good qualities. 
 In gathering the crop, the poles are taken down, and the stems 
 cut off three feet above the ground, that the roots may not be 
 injured by bleeding. The poles are then laid upon a wooden 
 box, or " bin," about nine feet long, three feet wide, and two 
 and a half feet high, which is surrounded by women and chil- 
 dren, who tak« off the hops by hand. The labor ought 
 not to be commenced in the morning until the dew is off, lest 
 the flowers be rendered musty, or deprived of their fragrance. 
 ■JTbis is usually a festive season in hop-produciag countries. 
 
180 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 The work must be performed in pleasant weather, and it lends 
 1o the congregation of the young of both sexes, who beguile 
 their time with humor and sport. Travellers in England tell 
 some laughable stories of tlie practical jokes which are occa- 
 sionally played by the pickers upon t]>e incautious spectator, 
 or even upon one another. As many love matches are formed, 
 and life-long friendships commenced, at these social gather- 
 iags, as at our apple-bccs, donation- visits, or quilting-parties. 
 
 The most important part of the management of hops, is the 
 curing, or drying, of them. This is done in a kiln, where they 
 ought to be carried within three or four hours af tei being picked 
 They are spread out evenly, and allowed to remain unmoved, 
 until they have become perfectly dry by a moderate, steady 
 beat. The details of this process would consume too much 
 space for insertion in such a small voUudo, and as we do not 
 intend our remarks for a large cultivator, we will refer him for 
 farther information to standard treatises. With the small gar- 
 dener who raises a few vines for the use of his own family, it 
 is only necessary to spread the hops out upon paper or a cloth, 
 and to let them remain until they are quite free from mois- 
 tlire, when they can be put away in paper bags. 
 
 Use. — We have already mentioned, that the young shoots 
 and suckers are by some persons considered a good substitute 
 for asparagus. The vines, however, arc cultivated for the 
 flowers, the principal use of which is to give strength and per- 
 manence to beer. They impart an agreeable, although bitter 
 and aromatic, flavor, besides preventing the too r;ispid progress 
 of fermentation. They are goo 1 for making family yeast, and 
 also have valuable medicinal qualities. A pillov/ fiUed with 
 them is often thought excellent to induce sleep, when other ex- 
 pedients have failed. 
 
 To make Yeast. — Boil one handful of hops, and two of wheat 
 bran, in two quarts of water, for twenty minutes; then str .;n 
 off the water, and, while it is boiling hot, stir in wheat or rye 
 
DICTIONARY. Igl 
 
 flour, till it becomes a thick batter; let it stand until it is 
 about blood warm, when you are to add a half pint of good 
 yeast, together with a tablespoonful of molasses, and mix the 
 whole well together. In summer, put the yeast in a cool place, 
 but, ill a warm one in the winter season. As soon as it be- 
 comes light and fi.-othy, it is fit for use. Put it in a large, 
 open-mouthed jar, and do not cork tightly for twelve hom's or 
 so, when it will have done working. It will keep ten or 
 twelve days. 
 
 HORS E- R ADIS H. — Cochlearia annoracia. 
 
 From a fancied resemblance in the shape of the leaves, 
 being rather hollow, to an old-fashioned spoon called cochlear, 
 is said to have been derived the botanical name of the horse- 
 radish. It is a cruciferous plant, inhabiting the temperate 
 parts of Europe, in moist situations. The stem is herbaceous, 
 bearing small, white flowers. The root is cyhndrical, pene- 
 trating very deeply mto the ground, and, when fresh, possesses 
 a pungent taste and odor, which are highly esteemed upon the 
 dinner table. Of late years, it has been very extensively cul- 
 tivated for pickling purposes, and a few plants are considered, 
 indispensable in eveiy common-^izcd family garden. 
 
 CuLTiTvE. — The horse-radish delights in a deep, sandy 
 luam, which is moldy, ricli and somewhat moist. The bank 
 of a water-course, where the roots will not suffer from, drought 
 in summer, nor be liable to inundation during the winter, is a 
 very eligible situation. Tlie exposure should be free and 
 open, as the roots never attain a large size when grown on 
 poor land, or beneath the drip of trees. It is a good way to 
 Bpade the ground intended for the bed, to the depth of two or 
 three feet, in the previous autumn, and to turn under a good 
 quantity of well rotted dung or decayed vegetable matter. 
 The plantation can be made in March or November, as most 
 convenient. 
 
 IG 
 
182 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 The horse-rarlish is propagated by sets, or small pieces of 
 the old root, two inches long, and each having two buds or 
 eyes. Any part — either the main root itself, or its offsets, — 
 will answer, but those sets which prove most successful are 
 taken from the top or crown. The most expeditious mode 
 of planting, and perhaps the best one, is by means of the" 
 dibble. After the ground has been properly prepared, by 
 being spaded, manured and levelled, holes, sixteen inches 
 ieep, should be made by the dibble, in rows eighteen inches 
 ipart, and at the distance of one foot from eacli other in the 
 .'ows. The holes ought to be smooth, and large at the bottom* 
 50 that the set can be at least fourteen or fifteen inches below 
 the surface ; to secure this, an old spade handle, or a blunt 
 fitick, either of which will very readily penetrate the mellow 
 soil, is better than a sharp-pointed dibble. 
 
 When the sets are dropped into their appointed places, 
 '.he holes are to be filled with loose earth ; and the bed is 
 to be smoothly raked over, for a sowing of lettuce, radish, 
 or some other crop which will be removed early in the season, 
 Ijefore it can prove injurious to the horse-radish. The mold 
 ought to lie as loose and light as possible ; and, for this reason, 
 llie gardener should avoid treading on it, after the sets are 
 planted. They will soon start, and show their leaves above 
 ground. Their subsequent growth can be much invigorated 
 by occasional waterings with liquid manure. The only culti- 
 vation required, is to keep the bed free of weeds, as well as, in 
 autumn, to clear off the decayed leaves and rubbish. 
 
 The roots will have attained a suitable size for use, by the 
 second autumn after planting. In taking up the crop, a trench 
 must be dug alongside the outer row of the bed, and the roots 
 cut so as to leave a small piece to grow in the following sea- 
 son. But, it is decidedly the best plan to make a new planta- 
 tion every year, because the roots become tough, bitter, and less 
 profitable for market, as they advance in age. In addition to 
 all that, the reader will recollect that au alternation of crops is 
 
DICTIONARY. 183 
 
 to be pursued whenever practicable, and that of right no vege- 
 table should be grown twice successively upon the same spot. 
 Wlien the old bed is to be destroyed, great care must be ob- 
 served to dig up all the lateral roots, as the smallest of them 
 will vegetate. Tlie first trench is to be filled with the dirt 
 taken from the second one, whicli is dug alongside the nert 
 row of roots, and the whole plantation to be managed in the 
 same way. The winter's supply can be stored in the cellar, 
 in a box of damp sand or earth. 
 
 Use. — As a condiment for the table, the horse-radish is 
 much esteemed. The roots should be u?ed only when fresh 
 and sprightly ; they are then said to assist digestion. They are 
 sci"aped into shreds, and covered with vinegar, to be eaten with 
 roast meats, fish, etc. Thus pickled, and preserved in tightly- 
 stopped bottles, they are yearly brought to market in large 
 quantities. Moreover, the horse-radish has several medicinal 
 virtues, it being a stimulant, and useful in cases of hoarseness, 
 rheumatism, palsy, etc 
 
 HYSSOP. — Hyssopus officinalis. 
 
 Hyssop is a perennial, of hardy habit, firom the south of Eu 
 rope. It is often mentioned in Scripture, and is cultivated in 
 gardens mainly for its medicinal properties. The leaves and 
 flowers have a sharp, warm taste, while the whole plant is 
 possessed of a strong, fragrant smelL 
 
 Culture. — It likes a light, dry soil, because, if its growth 
 be too luxuriant, it will become tender, and lose its aromatic 
 properties. New plants are obtained from seed, slips, cut- 
 tings of the branches, or from divisions of the old roots. The 
 first mode is much the easiest. Sow the seed somewhere 
 about the middle of spring, in drills six inches apart, and not 
 deeper than half an inch. Thin the plants, when three or four 
 
184 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 inches high, to distances of twelve inches in the drill. Cut- 
 tings of the old stalks are to be taken off in the middle of 
 spring, and slips of the young shoots somewhere about mid- 
 summer. The divisions of the roots can be set out in either 
 spring or autumn, as may be most convenient. They ought all 
 to be planted in a shaded locality, and upon a fine, mellow 
 Boil, where they will become firmly rooted by October ; and 
 they are then to be removed to their permanent location. Wa- 
 ter should be given, not only at the time of planting, and at 
 every removal, but also twice or thrice a week during hot 
 weather until they become well established. Keep the ground 
 mellow and clean, by frequent hoeings. In spring and au- 
 tumn, dress the surface of the bed with the rake, and remove 
 all the dead branches. 
 
 Use. — Hyssop is but little valued for culinary purposes^ 
 although the powdered leaves are occasionally put with cold 
 salad herbs. The whole plant, however, has something of a 
 reputation for its medicinal virtues, being used in several dis- 
 orders of the lungs. The branches should be gathered on a 
 dry, pleasant day, and kept in a cool garret. 
 
 INDIAN CORN.— -Zeamay^. 
 
 Perliaps no early vegetable is in greater demand at the 
 market of a city than good green corn. It seems to be a fa- 
 vorite among all classes, and the first supply of the season is 
 eagerly bought up at a high price. Much of that which is 
 annually exposed for sale is of a very poor quality, and it 
 seems strange to us that gardeners are willing to cultivate the 
 second-rate varieties, when the choicest are so easily procured. 
 It costs no more to raise a delicious Virgalieu, that actually 
 melts in the mouth, than a hard, indigestible choke-pear ; no? 
 is it more difficult to raise the excellent Su(jar-con\ tlian the 
 kind usually grown in the field. We would recommend the 
 
DICTIONARY. 185 
 
 following varieties for tlie kitchen ; — the Extra Early, and the 
 Elghl-rowed Sugar. The first named is remarkable for its 
 earliiiess and fine flavor, and yet, for the main crop, it can 
 scarcely be called equal to the latter. A new kind by the 
 name of Stowell's Sugar, which lias been brought into notice 
 within a few months, is spoken of very highly by those who 
 have tried it. If the liusks are suffered to remain on the ears, 
 the grains will continue milky and in a good condition for 
 boiUng, for several months after being plucked. This property 
 will render it a very desirable sort, for those who relish a dish 
 of green corn in midwinter. 
 
 Culture. — Any common garden soil that is rich, dry and 
 mellow, Avill be found adapted to the wants of this cereal. 
 But its principal characteristic should be fertility, because the 
 plant is a gross feeder, and requires considerable nourishment 
 to perfect its large stalks, leaves and ears. It would be folly 
 in any person to expect a good crop from a poor half-starved 
 soil. The nr<5t planting should be as soon as the season 
 becomes su^iciently mild, and have the benefit of a warm, 
 sheltered i^ituation. To keep the table supplied for a long 
 time, the planting must be repeated at intervals of a fortnight 
 or three weeks until the middle of summer. 
 
 After the ground has been ploughed or spaded, it is to be 
 marked out in cross rows four feet apart each way. In the 
 bottom of each hill is to be put a shovelful of old dung or com- 
 post, and that to be covered with a little mellow dirt. The 
 seed should have been soaked for at least twelve hours in a 
 solution of saltpetre, or in simple warm water, to arouse the 
 dormant irerm, and tlien rolled in plaster of Paris. Five or six 
 of the-e kernels are not too many for one hill, as the number 
 of the plants can easily be reduced. The proper depth of 
 covering for the seed, is about two inches ; if too much mold 
 be drawn upon the hill, the stalks become enfeebled, and de- 
 cay before thev aj-e able to reach the surface. 
 16* 
 
Igg GARDENER- S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 When the plants have made their appearance, and acquired 
 a height of two or three incliep, it will be time to enter upon 
 the duties of after-cultm-e. With the hoe, the soil in the hills 
 is loosened ; and such weeds as cannot be reached by that im- 
 plement, without risk of injuring the corn, must be pulled by 
 the thumb and forefinger. The number of plants in a hill can 
 be reduced to three, either at tliis, or at the next, hoeing. 
 Tliree stalks will bear as much, and possibly more, than the 
 whole half dozen. Putting a pint of ashes, or a gill of pou 
 drette, around the roots at this time, will secure a j^uick an(3 
 abundant growth of ears. 
 
 In the course of two or three weeks, the plants will agam 
 make urgent calls upon the gardener's attention. Tney ought 
 not to be neglected any longp'- thar. need be, or a diminished 
 product will surely be tne result. After they hare once got 
 fe,irly under way,tliey will, in a measure, take care of them- 
 selves, requiring only an occasional hour's labor, to keep the 
 soil hght, and to eradicate weeds. Where tlie plantatiitn is 
 extensive, the use of the hoe alone is too laborious, and the 
 assistance of the plough or cultivator will be required. There 
 is nothing like keeping the ground mellow, and open to atmo- 
 spheric inflnences. We have previously shown its especial 
 value in times of drought, when field crops that receive only 
 occasional attention, are almost burned up by the heat. The 
 old-fashioned practice of raising high hills has fallen into disre- 
 pute, except on very moist land ; — it is coly necessary to draw 
 a little mold around the stems when they are about a foot high, 
 to steady them against the wind. As soon as the kernels are 
 well developed upon the ear, it is fit for cooking. When the 
 stalks are stripped, they can be cut close to the ground, and 
 given to the cows, for which they prove an excellent s\immer 
 feed. 
 
 For seed, — only the best ears from the most produt:tive 
 stalks should be gathered. By pursuing this course for a num- 
 ber of years, the character of the variety can be much im- 
 
DICTIONARY. 187 
 
 proved. At any rate, there will be no chance for Its degener- 
 ating. For the early crops, the earliest ears must be selected. 
 "When they are fully ripened, braid the husks together, with 
 the ears hanging out like a string of onions, and hang them up 
 in a cool, dry place. 
 
 Use. — The following receipts are recommended to the 
 housekeeper. She ought not to be content with coi-n in its 
 green state alone ; but, every season, endeavor to preserve a 
 quantity for winter use in the shape of succotash. 
 
 To boil. — Green corn is sweetest when boiled upon the cob, 
 from fifteen to thirty minutes, according to its age. Some 
 persons do not strip off the inner husks, until after the corn has 
 been boiled, thinking that its rich flavor is thereby better 
 retained. The kernels can be cut off by a knife, and seasoned 
 with butter, pepper and salt, or carried to the table untouched. 
 None but tlie over-fastidious will object to eating them directly 
 from the cob. 
 
 Green Corn Pudding. — To three teacupfuls of grated com, 
 add two quarts of milk, eight eggs, two teaspoonfuls of salt, 
 one half teacupful of melted butter, together with a little nut- 
 meg. Bake for one hour, and eat with sauce. 
 
 Green Corn Oyf^ters. — To one pint of grated corn, add one 
 well-beaten e^^, one teacupful of flour, one half teacupful of 
 butter, with salt and pepper to the taste. Mix tliem well to- 
 gether. A tablespoonful dropped into lard, will m<ike a cake 
 of tlie size of an oyster. Fry to a light brown, and when cooked, 
 moisten it with cream or butter 
 
 To dry for winter use. — After the ears have been boiled, 
 the kernels are to be cut off by a knife, or shelled by running 
 the prong of a fork along the base of the grain. Spread theiji 
 upon a cloth in a shaded, airy place, but carry into the house at 
 nightfall. They will require several days to become perfectly 
 dried, when they are to be put away in cloth bags. The rav- 
 ages of mice must be carefully guarded against. 
 
Igg GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 Succotash. — Put tliiee quarts of cold water to one half pound 
 of salt pork, and place them upon the fire. Cut three quarts of 
 green corn frc^m the cobs, which are to be boiled with the pork, 
 as they add much to the richness of the mixture. When the 
 pork has boiled for half an hour, take out the cobs, and put in 
 their place one quart of freshly-gathered shell beans. After 
 they have boiled fifteen minutes, add the three quarts of corn, 
 and let the whole boil for another fifteen minutes. Then turn it 
 out into a dish, and add five or six large spoonfuls of butter, to- 
 gether with sugar, salt and pepper to your taste. If the liquor 
 have boiled away, it will be necessary to add a little more water 
 before taking it from the fire. In winter, the dried com must 
 be soaked over night, and not added to the pot until the beaai3 
 become tender. 
 
 INDIAN CRESS.— 7^;-opao?w?n majus. 
 
 Generally known as the Nasturtium. It is a native of 
 South America, and is distinguished for its brilliant show of 
 orange and crimson-colored flowers. It was carried to Eng- 
 land in the sixteenth century. Being a good climber, it is use- 
 ful in covering a trellis or lattice as a screen, and for its gay 
 dress is often made a tenant of the flower garden. The value 
 of its seeds for pickling, and of the tops for salads, entitle it to a 
 place among other family vegetables. 
 
 Culture. — Indian cress will grow on almost any soil, and 
 in neai'ly every situation ; but it flourishes best on a fresh, mel- 
 low loam, having an open exposure. Where the ground is very 
 rich and strong, the vine will be luxuriant, while the crop 
 proves small, and of inferior character. Sow the seed in tlie 
 middle of spring, about three or four inches apart in a single 
 row, along a fence or trellis. Cover the seed three quarters of 
 an incli det'p. Tlie plants are afterward to be thinned to stand 
 about one foot apart in tlie row. The runnei's soon manifest a 
 
DICTIONARY. I39 
 
 disposition for climbing, and at first, tliey may need a little 
 assistance in fiistening themselves upon the trellis. Where 
 tliey have been sown in an open compartment, they ought to 
 be supported by stakes or brushwood. The occasional ap- 
 plication of water in continued dry weather, is of great advant- 
 age, — strengthening the plants, improving their appearance, 
 and increasing their powers of productiveness. Other than 
 this, they i-equire little attention. Flowers will open in or 
 about the month of July, and the fruit is to be picked as soon 
 as it acquires fall size, before it loses its fresh, green color. 
 
 For seed, — let the fruit remain upon the vines until quite 
 ripe, and avoid storing before it becomes dry and hard. 
 
 Use. — The leaves and flowers have a sprightly taste that 
 is pleasant in salads. They are also often used as a garnish, and 
 sometimes as a remedy for weakness or pain in the stomach. 
 The fruit is excellent for pickling. Immediately after being 
 gathered, it is put in salt and water, which must be changed 
 once in three or four days, and there kept until a sufficient 
 quantity is collected. The salt and water is then drawn off, 
 and replaced by hot vinegar. 
 
 JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE.— Z/e/ian^Aws tuherosus. 
 
 A small sunflower, bearing nutritious tubers, hx which it 
 is cultivated. It is a hardy perennial of Brazil, and was first 
 carried to England in the year 1617, where it soon became 
 exceedingly popular as an esculent, being thought much su- 
 perior to the potato. Loudon says that the name Jerusalem 
 is a corruption of the Italian word for sunflower — girasole. 
 Its name of artichoke is probably derived from a resemblance 
 in the taste of its roots to the " bottoms " of that plant. The 
 stalks are large, and frequently attain the height of ten feet. 
 The roots are produced in great quantity, — the crops some- 
 times exceeding two thousand bushels per acre. During the 
 past few years, they have been much extolled for agricultural 
 
190 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 purposes, and, indeed, they would seem better suited for the 
 fanner than for the kitchen gardener. 
 
 Culture. — The Jerusalem artichoke is not very particular 
 in regard to soil or situation ; it is, however, best pleased with 
 a light and moist loam, having a free exposure. It requires ■ 
 little attention, and is so much inclined to perpetuate itself, 
 that it may even become a nuisance in a small garden. It is 
 propagated in the same manner as the potato, by sets of the 
 large-sized tubers. Plant them in March or April, according 
 to the forwardness of the season, in drills three feet apart, and 
 at distances of twelve or fifteen inches in the driU. Cover 
 the sets about three inches deep. Be exceeding careful to 
 guard against the intrusion of weeds. Keep the soil light, and 
 draw a little around the stems for their support. The tu- 
 bers can be taken up as wanted for use, during the months of 
 September and October, but in November they are to be 
 raised for preservation through the winter, in sand or earth. 
 The smallest piece left in the ground, proves troublesome by 
 vegetating in the following spring. The crop may, however, 
 remain where grown, as it does not suffer from the frost. 
 
 Use. — In an agricultural point of view, this plant deserves 
 a high position. It is exceedingly hardy, bearing exposure to 
 the severe weather of winter without injury ; — it can be grown 
 upon poor soil, without the addition of much manure ; — itrequires 
 little attention ; — and is distinguished by great productiveness. 
 The stalks make very good fodder, if cut before the flowers 
 have fully opened ; while the tubers are thought particularly 
 valuable for cows, sheep and store pigs. When prepared 
 plain for the table, the roots form rather a second-rate dish. 
 After having been boiled soft or tender, they are to be peeled, 
 and then stewed witli wine and butter. By many persons, 
 they are then considered nutritious and possessed of a good 
 flavor. 
 
DICTIONARY. 191 
 
 Kale.— 5fie BORECOLE and SEA-KALE. 
 
 LAVENDER. — Lavandula spica. 
 
 Johnson says that the botanic name of tb.is plant, Lavan- 
 dula, is derived from the Latin word lavo, to wash, in allusion 
 to the use formerly made of its distilled water in the baths. 
 It is a hardy under-shrub, a native of the south of Europe, 
 and has been cultivated in England since the year 1568. It is 
 distinguished for its aromatic and stimulating properties. To 
 its general dissemination in some parts of Europe, has been 
 attributed the excellence of the honey there made by bees. 
 
 Culture. — It can be grown with the greatest success in a 
 poor, gravelly soil. In a rich garden, it loses much of the 
 fragrance for which it is esteemed, while becoming tender and 
 less able to withstand the severity of winter. This is by no 
 means, peculiar to the lavender plant, for it has long been re* 
 marked in the cultivation of other aromatic herbs, that in 
 proportion to their luxuriance of growth, are their hardiness 
 and flavor diminished. The situation should be free and ex- 
 posed. When having the full benefit of the sun, the plant 
 Bometimes contains one-fourth part of its weight in camphor. 
 Propagation is easily accomplished, in spring, by slips and 
 cuttings of the young branches, about six inches long. The 
 lower half of each should be stripped of leaves, before its in- 
 sertion to that depth in a shaded border. They are to be 
 planted in rows, nine inches apart each way. A little water 
 may be given every other evening, to encourage the forma- 
 tion of roots. In autumn, or the succeeding spring, the plants 
 can be safely removed to their permanent location, in rows 
 two feet apart each way. The only culture necessary is to 
 keep the soil clean, and to remove the dead branches at the 
 close of the season. The flowers ought to be gathered when 
 they are in the greatest perfection. The bed will last a long time. 
 
192 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 Use. — Tlie delightful fragrance of the leaves and flowers is 
 well known, and has led to the preparation of the distilled 
 water, the tincture, and the volatile oil. In. addition to their 
 value as a perfume, they are ranked among the stimulants and 
 carminatives of medicine. The flower-spikes are frequently 
 put in little paper bags, to be laid among linen in drawers. 
 
 LEEK. — Allium porrum. 
 
 The leek is a member of the onion family, and has been 
 cultivated from time immemorial. It has always been re- 
 garded with particular favor by the Egyptians, who eat it raw 
 with their bread, or as a sauce for meats. It is frequently 
 associated with the name of St. David, the patron saint of 
 "Wales, for the reason that Welshmen are accustomed to sport 
 leeks in tb.eir hats upon his festival, the first of March. This 
 is a very ancient custom, and we find frequent mention of it 
 in the old writers. Some persorls have thought that it com- 
 memorates tlie introduction of the plant into that country by St, 
 David ; but more probably, as Shakspeare says, in his Henry 
 the Fifth, it is " worn as a memorable trophy of predeceased 
 valor." According to " an antient tradition," in a celebrated 
 victory of the Welsh over the Saxons, in tlie sixth century, the 
 former, under the prelate's directions, were distinguished by 
 leeks which they gathered near the battle ground. As he was 
 supposed to liave power to work miracles, it is not strange 
 that their glorious success should have been attributed to this 
 cause. Whatever may be the origin of the custom, it would 
 be quite as remarkable, to find a Welshman without his leek 
 on the first of March, as it would to discover a genuine Hiber- 
 vAan without a shamrock in liis buttonhole, on St. Patrick's 
 day. For certain purposes the leek is preferred to the onion. 
 The varieties most wortliy of cultivation, and perhaps of 
 equal excellence, are — the London^ — and the Scotch. 
 
* DICTIONARY. 193 
 
 Culture. — Sow the seed in March or April, as soon as the 
 ground becomes open, and the weather settled. One ounce of 
 seed will yield between two and three thousand plants. 
 Select for the bed a warm, sheltered border, and sow hi drills, 
 three quarters of an inch deep, and eighl inches apart. When 
 the plants have become established, they ought to be thinned 
 out to distances of about two inches in the diill. Frequent and 
 thorough lioeing is of the first importance, while an occasional 
 application of water during a dry time, proves of great benefit. 
 As soon as the seedlings acquire a height of eight or nine 
 inches, they are fit for transplanting. 
 
 The leek is best suited with a mellow loam, which has been 
 deeply dug, and made rich by the application of old dung or 
 compost. The subsoil should be dry, and the exposure rather 
 open. Make shallow trenches across the bed, one foot distant 
 from eacli other, for the reception of the plants, which are to 
 be drawn from the seed bed, either during showery weather, or 
 after the soil has been rendered yielding by the apphcation of 
 water. Some should be allowed to remain at the distances of 
 six inches asunder in the drill. Sliorten the extremities of the 
 tops and roots of those which are taken up, and insert them in 
 the trenches, by means of the dibble, eight inches apart. They 
 ought to be inserted just so deep, that the centre leaves and 
 buds shall not be covered with earth. 
 
 In dry weather, give water freely ; and, at all times, during 
 the season of their growth, make good use of the hoe. The 
 Poll must be kept mellow, and, every now and then, a little 
 should be drawn up around the stems. Some gardeners cut 
 OiT the tops of the leaves, at intervals perhaps of three weeks 
 or a month, in order to increase the size of the roots. A por- 
 tion of the crop can be raised as wanted for use, by the begin^ 
 ning or the middle of autumn. Tlie plants will stand the 
 wmter well ; but, on the approach of hard frost, it is customary 
 to store in sand a quantity sufficient for the wants of the 
 fannly until the ground opens. 
 17 
 
194 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 For .se<?(7.— Remove some of the best plants, in spring, to a 
 warm, sheltered border. The flower-stems should be supported 
 by stakes, or tied to the fence, to prevent their being broken 
 down by the wind. Cut the heads when they turn brown, 
 with a portion of the stems attached, by which they are to be 
 lied together in bundles of three or four, for convenience in 
 hanging thorn up to dry. When the seed becomes perfectly 
 hardened, it can be beaten out at any convenient time. 
 
 Use. — From its mild, agreeable taste, as well as on ac* 
 count of its hardiness, the leek is by many jjreferred to the 
 onion. The whole plant is used in various ways, such as 
 being boiled plain to be eaten with meat, in soups, stews, etc. 
 
 LETTUCE.— Zac«?^ca sativa. 
 
 Lettuce is- a hardy annual of which the original country 
 seems to be unknown. It has been found wild in many differ* 
 ent parts of the world, and was first cultivated in England 
 about the year 1562. It is divided into tvvo Aimilies, called 
 the Cos and the Cabbage lettuces. Tlie first — distinguished 
 by an upright growth,- — was introduced fiom the island of 
 Cos ; and the second,— the habits of which are somewliat in- 
 dicated by its name,—- from Egypt. Our climate is not alto- 
 gether l;ivorable to the Cos family ; or, at least, we find the 
 other one much more thrifty and worthy of cultivation. For 
 the information of the curious reader, it is well to state, that 
 the botanical term Lactuca is derived from lac, the Latin word 
 for milk, in allusion to the milky juice which exudes from the 
 stem when broken. This juice, when the plants are young, 
 contains but a small quantity of the narcotic principle ; but it 
 gradually acquires a strong, bitter taste, and becomes notably 
 sedative. This property seems to have been known at a very 
 early period, and a lettuce supper was thought higlily con- 
 ducive to repose. The varieties and sub-varieties are numer- 
 
DICTIONARY. 1 95 
 
 ous, and, as is usual in such cases, a very few include the lead- 
 ing merits of the whole. 
 
 TJie best soil for lettuce, is, undoubtedly, a mellow loam, 
 deep, rich, and founded upon a dry substratum. It should be 
 fertile, and if not so naturally, must be supplied with a good 
 quantity of old dung, some time previous to the sowing of the 
 seed. This is better done m autumn, than in the spring. 
 
 Culture, — By tlie exercise of a little forethought, the family 
 gardener can keep his table supplied with lettuce throughout 
 the year, at a very trifling expense. To have early plants for 
 spring use, the first sowing must be made eitlier in the pre- 
 vious autumn, or else in the latter part of winter upon a hot- 
 bed. The first plan we consider decidedly the best, as the 
 plants are hardier, and better able to bear removal to the 
 open ground, than those obtained by artificial heat. 
 
 This sowing may be between the firsthand the middle of 
 September, upon a bed of hght, rich soil, having the benefit of 
 shade at midday. The best varieties are, — the Large Green- 
 head, — the Brown Dutch, — ^and the Early Cabbage, — together 
 "with such others as are capable of standing severe winter 
 weather. From nine to twelve thousand plants have been 
 raised from a single ounce of seed. Sow rather thinly in drills 
 eight inches apart ; cover the seed liglitly, and, in a dry time, 
 press the surface of the bed, by patting it with the spade, or 
 by walking upon a board. When the plants crowd one an- 
 other in tlie drill, thin them out to distances of two or three 
 inches, allowing them just suflBcient space to secure a good, 
 stocky growth before cold weather sets in. Such as are pulled, 
 can be set out in another place, — perhaps on the spot to be 
 enclosed by the cold frame. The soil should be kept hght 
 and clean. 
 
 In the latter part of October, the plants are to be furnished 
 with their winter protection. Some of the hardy varieties 
 which are intended for early crops, can be set out, one foot 
 
196 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 apart, upon the south side of ridges, that will be covered with 
 straw during severe weather. The pi-incipal part, however, 
 should be removed to the cold frame or box, and there dibbled 
 as closely as they will stand, without interfering- with one an- 
 other. The covering, be it of glass or plain boards, must be 
 often opened in mild, pleasant days, for the admission of fresh" 
 air. Look out for tlie attacks of earth worms and slugs ; dust- 
 ing the leaves with soot is somewhat of a preventive. Or, in- 
 stead of using a cold frame, the seed bed can be covered with 
 mats placed over bent hoops. "Whatever may be the plan 
 adopted, do not omit regular ventilation in all pleasant weatlier. 
 
 Where the sowing was not made in autumn, according to 
 the above directions, and early plants are wanted, tliey must 
 be obtained from a small hot-bed, built in the latter part of 
 winter. No great amount of heat is required, but care should 
 be taken to prevent any bad consequences from the want of 
 pure air. For general directions upon the formation and man- 
 agement of hot-beds, the reader must refer to our article on 
 " Forcing Vegetation.'' 
 
 Taking it for granted that the gardener is supplied with 
 plants, which have been safely kept through the inclement 
 season, let us follow their subsequent growth. At the moment 
 that frost leaves the ground, a small number ought to be 
 transplanted to a very warm border, having the full benefit of 
 the sun's rays, and protect^ from cold winds on the north side. 
 They will for some length of time require the friendly shelter 
 of hand-glasses, until they become gradually accustomed to 
 the change of quarters, and until the progress of the season 
 permits their exposure with impunity. A second, third, or 
 fourth removal of these plants can be made in the same way, 
 at intervals of seven or eight days. By such a course, a great 
 advantage will be obtained in the regular maturity of the 
 crop. 
 *"' The first spring sowing in the open compartment, should 
 take place as soon as the weather and ground will permit, — 
 
DICTIONARY. 197 
 
 perhaps between the middle and beginning of March. For 
 tlie bed s^elect a warm border in a sheltered situation, and 
 mark out the drills twelve inches apart. The varieties well 
 adapted for this sowing, are — the Brown Dutch, — the Early 
 Cabbage^ — and the Dru>nhead. Sow thinly, and, in dry weather, 
 press the earth in close contact with the seed. When the 
 plants are two inches high, they are to be thinned out to dis- 
 tances of four inches in the drill, and those which are pulled 
 can be easily inserted in another bed. At this time, trans- 
 planting can be practised successfully, but, when the season 
 is further advanced, they seldom head well if removed from 
 the seed bed. "When they are four or five inches high, they 
 should be so thinned as to stand one foot apart each way. 
 Water ought to be given freely at every removal performed in 
 a dry dav, and regularly afterwards until the roots are estab- 
 lished. The hoe must be nsed frequently between the drills, 
 not only for the purpose of eradicating weeds, but also for 
 the sake of keeping the surface soil light and porous. 
 
 Another sowing can be made about a month later, and a 
 third in August for the late autumn crop. Tlie best varieties 
 are the LuHan, the Royal Cahbar/e, and such otliers as are 
 able to withstand the intense heat of summer. Sow in drills, 
 at the same distance apart as before, and thinly, so as to avoid 
 transplanting. It will be recollected that lettuce seldom does 
 well, when transplanted in war^jJt weather. 
 
 The winter crop is to be ?own in the latter part of Sep- 
 tember. The Early Cabbage is an excellent kind for this pur- 
 pose. In the following month, when the weather becomes 
 cold, the plants are to be rt-moved to a hot-bed, or the forcing- 
 ])it. The mold should be some eight or ten inches below the 
 glass. Take the roots up very carefully by means of the 
 trowel, and set the balls of earth in rows, nine inches apart 
 each way. Water ought to be given in moderate quantities 
 from time to time through the winter, and the saslies shaded 
 at midday until the roots liave taken hold. Air is to be ad- 
 17# 
 
J 98 gardenp:r's text-book. 
 
 mitted freely in all pleasant weather, while in a severe frost 
 the protection of mats upon the glass, as well as of a bank of 
 earth around the frame, will be necessary. Decayed leaves 
 must be removed as soon as they are discovered. Good heads 
 for eating may be obtained in December, and through the re- 
 mainder of the winter. 
 
 In this climate, the Cos lettuces are far from being as suc- 
 cessful as in Europe. They can be sown in autumn, and pro- 
 tected througli the inclement season, to be transplanted into 
 the open ground in spring. They are blanched by being tied 
 up like the endive, a week or ten days before wanted for use. 
 
 For seed, — select some of the best plants of the autumn or 
 spring sowings. Put them in rows, eighteen inches apart each 
 way, and do not omit to keep the varieties separate. Where 
 two or more kinds are suffered to blossom in the vicinity of 
 each other, a mongrel will surely be the result. Support the 
 flower-stems by stakes, and gather the branches as the seed 
 ripens, instead of waiting for a large portion to be wasted on 
 the ground. That borne by stalks wliich have run up prema- 
 turely, cannot be depended upon. Place the branches on a 
 cloth, or a large newspaper, spread in the shade, and let them 
 get perfectly dry before you attempt to thresh out the seed. 
 
 Use. — Lettuce may be considered as belonging to the very 
 best class of salads, and perhaps it is superior to all others. It 
 possesses a mild, agreeable taste, while it is wholesome and easy 
 of digestion. It is also sometimes used in soups. It is largely 
 cultivated for the extraction of its narcotic properties, which 
 are somewhat similar to those of opium, but have not the con- 
 stipating effects of that drug. The stalk is cut just before the 
 flower is ready to open, and the crust which forms upon the 
 top is carefully gathered. The stalk is cut again and again, 
 until the milky juice ceases to exude. 
 
 To dress a Salad. — This seems to be a convenient place for 
 giving directions how to dress a salad, which is a general name 
 
DICTIONARY. I99 
 
 for certain vegetables, snch as lettuce, endive and mustard, 
 prepared so as to be eaten raw. They should be well washed, 
 and cut into small pieces. An egg is boiled hard, and, when it 
 becomes cold, the yolk is to be taken out, and broken on a 
 plate. Then put with it, a large teaspoonful of cold water, 
 and near a teaspoonful of salt. Rub all this together, by 
 means of a spoon or fork, till the egg is a thick paste, free from 
 lumps. Next, add and mix a ti^blespoonful of salad oil, or cold 
 melted butter ; and after this, add at least one tablespoonful 
 of good vinegar. "When these are all Avell mixed, the dressing 
 is made, and is either to be put immediately with the salad, or 
 be sent to the table in a separate dish. The top of the salad 
 may be ornamented with small pieces of the white of the egg, 
 and slices of pickled beet. 
 
 MARIGOLD. — Calendula officinalis. 
 
 An annual, with bright yellow flowers, sometimes called 
 the Pot Marigold. It is a native of southern Europe. Only a 
 few plants are required by a common-sized family. 
 
 Culture. — Sow the seed in drills, ten inches apart, either 
 in the autumn of the year in which it ripened, or in the following 
 spring. Select for the bed a soil that is light, dry, having a 
 free exposure, and poor rather than rich. "Wlien the plants are 
 two inches high, tiiin them out to a foot apart in the drill. 
 Those whicli are pulled can be set out in another bed, to re- 
 ceive regular applications of water until the roots have become 
 established. Gather the flowers at the time they are in full 
 bloom, and dry them in the shade before stoiing for winter use. 
 
 For seed, — select none but the finest-looking heads. 
 
 Use. — The marigold was formerly somewhat esteemed in 
 broths, soup-, stews, etc., but now it is little regarded. Many 
 medicinal virtues have been ascribed to an infusion of the 
 
200 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 leaves, particularly in agues. Tlie flowers yield a distilled 
 water, a kind of vinegar, and a conserve, 
 
 MARJORAM. — Origanum. 
 
 A Avell known family of aromatic herbs. The botanic' 
 name is derived from oros, a mountain, and ganos, joy ; mean- 
 ing " the delight of the mountain," in allusion to the natural situ- 
 ation of the plants. There are as many as eight species, all 
 having numerous varieties. We shall notice only two, viz. : 
 the Sweet, or Summer, [0. marjorana,) and the Winter, — or 
 Bastard, ( 0. heraclcot'tcmn.) They both prefer a dry, mellow, 
 moderately rich soil, in an open situation. 
 
 The Sweet Marjoram ( 0. maj'^'ora/m,) is a native of Port- 
 ugal, and is propagated by seed. Sow in very shallow drills, 
 eight inches apart, somewhere about the middle of spring. 
 Cover the seed regularly, and not deeper than half an inch. 
 Tliin the plants to distances of six inches in the drill. The 
 surplus ones can be transplanted into another bed, water bemg 
 given until the roots become firm. Keep the ground light and 
 free from weeds. 
 
 For seed, — it is only necessary to let a few of the healthiest 
 plants remain uncut, and to gather the seed as it ripens. 
 
 The Winter Marjoram {0. heradeoticum,) is a hardy per- 
 ennial, a native of Greece. The general appearance of the 
 plant is much like that of the sweet marjoram. It is propagat- 
 ed by divisions of the roots, or slips of the blanches. They 
 are to be set in rows, one foot apart each way, by the middle 
 of spring. They must be sheltered at noonday when the sim 
 is powerful, and leceive an application of water, at least every 
 other evening, until they are well e,stablished. The bed 
 should have an autumnal dressing ; — the decayed branches 
 being removed, the surface dug over, and covered Avith a very 
 
DICTIONARY. 
 
 201 
 
 little rich mold. The hoe must be used frequently, so as to 
 keep the soil light and clean. 
 
 Use. — Both species of marjoram are aromatics, having a 
 warm, pleasant taste. They are much employed in season- 
 ing soups and bi'oths, and are thought to be serviceable in com- 
 plaints arising from a disordered state of the nerves. In the 
 season of their growth, the tops can be gathered as wanted 
 for use ; but, for a winter supply, delay cutting them until the 
 flowers are about to expand. Tie the stalks together in small 
 bundles, and hang them in a shaded place to dry. Keep in a 
 cool, dry apartment, ^ 
 
 MELON. — Cacumis melo. 
 
 Among the most delicious of fruits, the common, or musk, 
 melon holds a conspicuous position. It has been cultivated in 
 hot climates for seemingly time immemorial, for which reason 
 it is difficult to ascertain its native country, although botanists 
 generally agree upon Persia. It was brought into Europe by 
 the Romans, and by them disseminated wherever they carried 
 their arms. Every reader will admit the richness of its flavor, 
 that proves so tempting to the palate ; while its wholesome- 
 ness may be understood from the fact, that in southern Europe, 
 during its season, it makes a principal part of the food of the 
 lower classes. It is very easily raised in some parts of this 
 country, and immense quantities are yearly exposed for sale in 
 the markets of our chief cities. Tlie plant on which it is borne, 
 is a trailing annual, propagated by seed. The varieties are, as 
 might be expected, numerous ; yet, comparatively few are 
 worthy of the gardener's attention. The Musk, — the Nutmeg, — 
 the Netted Citron, — the Gree7i-fleshed, — and the Canteloup, are 
 among the best. In this connexion it may well be remarked, 
 that, whatever be the variety chosen, fine fruit cannot be ob- 
 tained without the exercise of considerable care and skill. 
 
202 GARDE.XER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 Culture. — The preparation of the soil is ceitainly of the 
 first importance. We prefer a loam which is dry and mellow, 
 rich and deep. It is customary to add some powerful ma- 
 nures, such as strong dung, guano, hen-dung, or an active com- 
 post. Nearly all of the ameliorators that have been proposed, 
 are objectionable to our mind, because producing a luxuriant" 
 growth of vine, at the expense of tliat flavor and juiciness for 
 wdiich the fruit is alone esteemed. The cultivator must then 
 seek in his land fertility, rather than rankness. Perhaps, a well 
 mixed compost of equal parts of loam and rotten dung, will 
 answer the [)urpose. 
 
 Melons in family gardens are most usually grown m the 
 open air. Those persons who can well afford the time and 
 money required, may resort to 
 
 Forcing. — To avoid repetition, we refer the reader to the 
 article on " Forcing Vegetation," as well as to the Cucumber, 
 for an iaccount of the process of building a hot-bed. In the 
 following directions, we shall aim to be as brief as possible. 
 The plants are to be raised on a small bed, in midwinter. 
 After the mold has been put on, and become warmed under 
 a close sash, the seeds are to be sown in small pots, which can 
 be raised in the holes wdienever the heat is too violent. The 
 sowing should be repeated in four or five days, to avoid all 
 chance of disappointment. Ventilation must be given at noon- 
 day, and also when the steam collects upon the glass, with 
 care not to reduce the temperature within too suddenly. At 
 night, and when the sun shines powerfully, the glass is to be 
 covered with mats, according to the coldness of the weather. 
 Tepid water ought to be applied to the roots, at such times as 
 the soil appears dry and hard. 
 
 In the course of a month, the plants will be of a good size 
 for their lemoval to the fruiting bed, constructed like the other 
 with the exccj^tion of being much larger, and having a mound 
 or hilk)ck under each sash. Those in pots can be transplanted 
 most easily in the following way ; — reverse the pot, with tlie 
 
DICTIONARY. 203 
 
 stem of the plant "between the fingers, and ?trikc against 
 its side with a small stick, so as to loosen the ball of dirt, 
 •which is then to be set in the middle of a hillock. Ni)t more 
 than tv/o healthy plants should be allotted to one sa-h. To 
 strengthen them, and promote the growth of fertile runners, 
 the main stem should be pinched off, at the second joint, and 
 the laterals at the sixth joint — when they proceed so far with- 
 out showing fruit. While it is desirable to maintain the heat 
 of the bed, every opportunity for ventilation must be seized. 
 The medium degree of temperature is 65° until the fruit sets, 
 and subsequently 76°. At first, care is to be taken to prevent 
 the injurious effects of a violent heat, by substituting fresh 
 mold in place of that which becomes caked, as well as by 
 making large holes in the pile of dung. Linbgs wjll be needed 
 in the latter part of the process, so that the plants shall not be 
 checked by the decrease of artificial warmth. An occasional 
 application of tepid water should be given whenever the 
 earth appears parched, but with care not to wet the foliage. 
 The quantity must be small, and given less frequently, as the 
 plants approach maturity, for too much moisture is apt to in. 
 jure the crop. Tlie glasses ought to be shaded at midday, 
 and not deprived of their nocturnal covering until ail danger 
 of frost be over. 
 
 It is well to assist impregnation in the manner directed for 
 the Cdcumber. Decayed leaves ought to be removed as soon 
 as discovered. The fruit should be frequently examined, in 
 order to pick off that which is imperfect, and to reduce the 
 crop when it appears too large for one vine to mature. Many 
 are accustomed to place straw or blackened shingles under the 
 melons, a-iul to turn the fruit twice or thrice a week, to pre* 
 Tent the lower side becoming disfigured. The time of matu' 
 rity will be indicated by a fragrant smell, together with a 
 crack or indentation near the stem. 
 
 The principal difference between the hot bed culture of the 
 
204 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOlv. 
 
 melon and the encumber is, tliat the first named reqnires a 
 higher temperature, and more fresh air, but less moisture. 
 
 In the open ground. — As a matter of course, it is veiy desira- 
 ble to have early plants,-— particularly on account of tlieir being 
 less liable to fall a prey to tlie striped bug. The cheapest and 
 most convenient mode of obtaining them, is to plant the seeds 
 upon small sods, and to start them into life under glass. In the 
 latter part of April, or earlier according to the forwardness of 
 the season, take a hot-bed frame, and place it on the ground in 
 a warm, sheltered position, having a good exposure to the sun. 
 Then procure some clean, mellow turf, and cut it, with the 
 spade, into pieces of a regular size, each about six inches 
 square. Put these in the bottom of the frame, with tlie grass 
 side down. Spread rich loam upon them to the depth of an 
 inch or two, and plant half a dozen seeds in each. Keep the 
 sash closed in all cold or unfavorable weather, and, as soon as 
 the plants are an inch high, reduce their number just one 
 half, so as to leave but three in a square. Admit the air 
 freely on every pleasant day, in order to secure a strong, 
 healthy gi"ov,'th ; and, as they advance in size, take off the 
 sash altogether, that they may be hardened for removal to the 
 open compartment. Take each square up separately on a 
 spade or trowel, and put it in the centre of a hill previously 
 prepared for its reception. Give the plants a gentle watering, 
 and they will suffer little from the change of quarters. The 
 seeds vegetate finely in the grass sods, wliich decay and fur- 
 nish considerable nourishment to tlie roots. The frame not 
 only prevents the depredations of insects, but also guards the 
 plants against the bad effects of cold winds in their early 
 growth. The croj) is brought forward much sooner than that 
 from the first sowing in the open air; while the gardener 
 avoids all the cost and trouble of a regular hot-bed. 
 
 Early in the month of May, preparations aie to be made 
 for sowing in the open compartment. The ground is first to 
 be properly dug and manured, and then to be marked out into 
 
DICTIOXARV. 205 
 
 hills six feet apart cacli way. For each one a hole should be 
 dug to the deptli of tifteeu inches, and of as many inches in 
 diameter. About twelve inches of compost, or well rotted 
 dung, are to be put at the bottom of the hole, and thoroughly 
 incorporated with three inches of good, mellow loam. More 
 of this loam is then to be thrown on, until the top of the hill 
 shall be some four or five inches above the surface of the 
 gi-ound. Nine or ten seeds are to be planted on the top, at 
 the depth of half an inch ; and, at this rate, one ounce of seed 
 will supply over one hundred hills. 
 
 We are accustomed to cover the plants, as soon as they 
 appear above ground, with vine-shields; by which means, 
 they will not only be protected from the attacks of insects, but 
 will also be materially quickened in then- growth. When the 
 vine-shields are elsewhere in use, we depend upon the solu- 
 tion of hen-dung, whale oil soap, or some other of those reme- 
 dies that we have mentioned in the article upon the " De- 
 struction OF Vermin." Without some precautionary meas- 
 m"es, we should probably be obliged to make a second, or 
 perhaps a third, sowing. The number of plants in a hill 
 ought not to be over three, as they will bear a greater crop 
 than a dozen crov/ded into so small a space. It is advisable 
 to keep the soil light ajid free from weeds, and occasionally to 
 draw a little up around the stems ftn- their support. If they 
 appear too luxuriant, and disposed to run to vine, it may be 
 well to pinch off tlie extremities of the shoots, which strength- 
 ens the roots, and causes the early development of fruit-bear- 
 ing laterals. The ground should be evenly covered with the 
 foliage, so that every leaf may have a fair exp(»sure to tJje 
 light. Keep the fruit from being injured by Iving on the ground. 
 Putting slates or blackened shingles under it will hasten its ma- 
 turity, by attracting the sun's rays. It loses much of ita 
 luscious flavor, by being suffered to become dead ripe bef»)re 
 being picked. 
 
 Beed — ought to be saved from none but tlie l>est fruit. 
 18 
 
206 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 Wash them from the pulp in a vessel of clean water, and skim 
 off all the light ones that float on the surface. Dry the rest, 
 and keep them in small paper bags. It should ahvays be 
 borne in mind, that where the different membeis of the cucum- 
 ber family and their many varieties are grown in close com- 
 panionship, intermixture and degeneracy must unavoidably- 
 follow. Keep them as far apai't as the limits of your territory 
 will admit. The seed will continue good for several years. 
 
 Use. — It has long been understood, that as a palatable and 
 wholesome article of food, the melon maintains a high rank 
 among fruits. It is generally eaten with sugar, salt or pepper, 
 but in France it is also served up as a sauce for boiled meats 
 We add the following receipt for making 
 
 Mangoes.— ^The melons should be picked late in the season. 
 Cut a small, square hole in the side of each, and take out the 
 seeds. Wash the melons clean, and soak them for thiee or 
 four days in salt and water. Then sprinkle them on tlie in- 
 side with powdered cloves, pepper and nutmeg ; and till them 
 with cinnamon, string beans, mustard seed, small stiips of 
 horse-radish, etc. Insert the small pieces tliat were cut out a 
 few days previous, and keep them in their places by strips of 
 cloth. Then put the melons in a stone jar, which is to be kept 
 closely covered, and turn scalding hot vinegar over them. 
 
 Melon, (Water).— &e WATER-MELON. 
 ini^T.— Mentha. 
 
 According to the poets, a daughter of Cocytus, called 
 Minth.e, was transformed into mint by Proserpme in a fit of 
 jealousy. This is one of the small herbs of which the Jewish 
 law did not require tithes, but the Pharisees were desiroi;s of 
 distinguishing themselves by a "tithe of mint, anise and cum- 
 Hiiij," while they omitted tlie weightier matters of judgment, 
 
DICTIONARY. 207 
 
 mercy and faith. The genus is extensive, comprising about 
 sixty species. Tliose cultivated in gardens are, — the Penny- 
 royal, (J/, pulegiicm) ; — the Peppermint, (J/, piperita) ; — and 
 the Spear-mint, (Jtf. viridis.) 
 
 CuLTURK. — Tlie species mentioned above are all cultivated 
 in the same way. They are best pleased with a fertile and 
 moist soil, of rather a tenacious character. Propagation is 
 easily effected by slips or cuttings of the stalks, and by offsets 
 or divisions of old roots, planted in rows nine inches apart each 
 way, somewhere about the middle of spring. If the operation 
 be not performed in cloudy weather, or when there is a pros- 
 pect of rain, water should bj given plentifully at the time. 
 The ground must be kept quite mellow, and free from weeds, 
 or, otherwise, the plants will be likely to receive a serious 
 check in their growth. The tops are to be cut for drying, as 
 soon as the flower-buds open, and on a pleasant day, because 
 if cut in damp weather, the leaves will turn black. They are 
 to be dried in a shady place, or in front of a fire ; and either 
 hung up in bundles, or powdered and kept in tightly-corked 
 bottles. When the tops become too old for use, they may 
 not be cut down until October, when the bed should receive a 
 small top-dressing of dung or rich soil. A plantation will 
 continue in bearing for five or six seasons, but to ensure a full 
 supply, a ne\7 one ought to be made every three years. 
 
 Use. — The green and dry leaves of the spear-mint are 
 used in salads, soups and sauces, as well as in that popular 
 American drink, the mint julep. Pennyroyal is occasionally 
 employed in cooking ; while the distilled waters of the pep- 
 permint, both simple and spirituous, are much esteemed for 
 their medicinal virtues. They all partake of the tonic and 
 stmiulating properties found in labiate plants, and have a 
 warm, aromatic taste. 
 
208 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 Jfint Sauce. — After washing the leaves and chopping them 
 up in very small pieces, put them Avith vinegar and sugar. 
 
 MUSHROOM. — Agaricus campestris. 
 
 The genus Agaricus is undoubtedly the most extensive in 
 the whole vegetable kingdom. Some of the species are much 
 esteemed for food, while others possess very deleterious quali- 
 ties. The one cultivated in gardens is thus described by Lou- 
 don ; — " The mushroom is a well known native vegetable, 
 springing up in open pastm'es in August and September. It 
 is most readily distinguished, when of middle size, by its fine 
 pink or flesh-colored gills and pleasant smell ; in a more ad- 
 vanced stage, the gills become of a chocolate color, and it is 
 then more apt to be confounded with other kinds of dubious 
 quality ; but that species which most nearly resembles it, is 
 slimy to the touch, and destitute of the fine odor, having 
 rather a disagreeable smell ; further, the noxious kind grows 
 in woods, or on the margins of woods, while the true mush- 
 room springs up chiefly in open pastures, and should be gath- 
 ered only in such places." 
 
 CuLTiTRE. — Tliis branch of gardening is gradually becoming 
 better understood. The mushroom has long been cultivated 
 in Europe for culinary purposes, but in this country it is not 
 by any means extensively known. In the outskirts of New- 
 York, we have noticed many large beds and houses devoted 
 exclusively to its production, for sale at market or at French 
 eating-houses. The process is so simple, that we consider the 
 attention of the family gardener may well be drawn to the 
 subject. 
 
 The mushroom is propagated by spawn, which resembles 
 pieces of fine white thread, and is collected in old pastures, or 
 other places where the fungi abound. Tlie following is the 
 mode practised by seedsmen of making spawn for sale : — A 
 
DICTIOXARY. 209 
 
 quantity of fresh horse-dung, mixed with short litter, is com- 
 posted with one third part of cow-dung, and a small portion of 
 good loam. This compost is cut up into bricks, which are to 
 be set on edge, and frequently turned, until they become half 
 dry. Then a couple of holes are to be made in each, by means 
 of the dibble, and in each hole is to be put a piece of spawn 
 as large as a walnut. "When the bricks are dry, they shall be 
 piled upon a layer of dry horse-dung, six inches thick, and 
 covered with sufficient fresh dung to produce a gentle heat 
 through the whole. As soon as the spawn has spread itself 
 through the bricks, the process is ended, and they may be 
 stored in a dry place, where they will preserve their vegeta- 
 tive powers for many years. 
 
 Beds for the culture of mushrooms are constructed in seve- 
 ral different ways. Sometimes they are in the open air, when 
 they require a covering of boards to prevent injury from cold 
 or wet weather ; at other times, in boxes or baskets, in pits or 
 frames, in sheds or moderately warm cellars ; and again, in 
 mushroom houses. The latter are decidedly the best, when the 
 necessary expense may be justified. They are sheds built in 
 a dry place, ten feet wide, and of any length desired. A walk 
 runs through the centre, so as to accommodate a bed on each 
 side of four feet in width. 
 
 In the first place, it is necessary to procure a sufficient 
 quantity of good horse-dung, and make it up into a heap, 
 wliich must be turned frequently to induce regular fermenta- 
 tion. In a fortnight all the rankness will probably have 
 escaped, when it will be time to build the bed. The dung 
 should be well shaken by the fork, and built up with perpen- 
 dicular sides to the height of twelve inches, and then gradually 
 drawn to the centre like the roof of a building. In a mush- 
 room house, the beds should be three feet higli on the back 
 side, sloping towards the walk. Every forkful is to be well 
 beaten into its place, so that the sided of the bed be even and 
 
 18* 
 
210 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 firm. Cover the dung with long straw or litter, in order to 
 exclude frost and prevent the escape of the volatile gases. 
 
 In the course of ten days, or a fortnight, the temperature 
 will be sufficiently reduced, and the covering is to be removed 
 in order that one inch of fine loam may be laid upon the dung. 
 On this plant the spawn, which has been broken into pieces of 
 the size of a walnut, in rows six inches apart each way. Put 
 on a second inch of mold, which, after being beaten smooth by 
 the spade, must be protected by the covering of straw. "Where 
 the bed is in the open air, it will need mats during stormy 
 weather. Guard against the extremes of heat and cold, and 
 of drought and moisture. A medium temperature is probably 
 somewhere about 60°. The covering of straw must vary in 
 thickness from three to twenty- four inches, according to circum- 
 stances. When the mold appears too dry, a gentle applica- 
 tion of tepid water should be given in the morning ; in sum- 
 mer, this may be necessary every other day, but in winter 
 perhaps once a month. After each watering, the covering 
 ought not to be replaced for some fifty or sixty minutes. 
 
 If the operation be successful, young mushrooms may be 
 expected in about five or six weeks after the date of spawn- 
 ing, although, from a variety of causes, the time is frequently 
 much longer. Where the bed has been kept too hot and 
 moist, the spawn may have been destroyed ; but, in many 
 cases, it requires only a little extra warmth, or a gentle sprink- 
 ling of water, to produce a generous crop. In gathering mush- 
 Yooms, after the straw has been removed, each one is drawn 
 up by a gentle twist of the fingers, and the hole is then filled 
 with earth. A -knife ought never to be en)ployed, because the 
 etumps left in the ground become nurseries of maggots, which 
 pnove very destructive to the succeeding growth. 
 
 Use. — Mushrooms are considered a great delicacy by epi- 
 cures. They are boiled, stewed, pickled, or dried. When re- 
 duced to powder, and kept in close bottles, they are very use- 
 
DICTIONARY. 211 
 
 fill at those seasons when they cannot be gathered fresh. The 
 catsup sold in stores is said to be made from the juice of mush- 
 rooms, seasoned with salt and spices. 
 
 To stew Mushrooms. — Cut off the lower part of the stems, 
 which are apt to have an earthy taste. Peel the other parts 
 and put tliem into a saucepan, with only enough water to pre- 
 vent their burning to the bottom. Add a little salt, and shake 
 the dish occasionally. They should be stewed slowly imtil 
 quite tender, when just before taking up, add also butter and 
 pepper, with spices and wine if desired. Serve on buttered 
 toast 
 
 To pickle Mushrooms. — They must first be peeled, and 
 stewed in a very little water, — the pan being shaken occa- 
 sionally. Take them up when tender, and put them in scald- 
 ing hot vinegar, which is spiced with mace, cloves and pepper- 
 corns. Add a little salt before b<^)ttling. 
 
 Mushroom Catsup. — Pat the fresh mushrooms in a deep 
 dish, and upon each layer sprinkle a little salt. After they 
 have remained thus for several days, mash them fine, and to 
 each quart add one tablespoonful of black pepper, and one 
 quarter teaspoonful of cloves. Put tlie whole into a stone jar, 
 which is set in a vessel of boiling water, and let them boil for 
 two hours. At the end of tliat time, the juice is to be strained 
 without pressure, and boiled for fifteen minutes, all scum that 
 vises being carefully removed. When the catsup is well 
 settled, it should be turned through a sieve, bottled and corked 
 tight Keep it in a cool place. 
 
 mj^T A.'&D.—Sinapis. 
 
 Two species of this well known plant are cultivated in tMfe 
 kitchen garden, viz, : the White {S. alba), and the Black {S. 
 mgra), both of which are annuals and natives of Europe. 
 Commentators upon the Bible seem divided in opinion, in re- 
 gard to the identity of this herb with the mustard spoken of 
 
212 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 by our Blessed Lord, the seed of which is represented as " the 
 least of all seeds," but is yet capable of producing a tree so 
 large that " the birds of the air come and lodge in the branches 
 thereof." Some writers contend that reference was made to 
 an entirely different plant, while others believe tliat this ex- 
 traordinary size may be attributed to the difference in climate 
 and soil. Our garden herb has been cultivated for many 
 centuries. The seed, which is an article of commerce, waa 
 first imported from Egypt. 
 
 Culture. — In selecting the spot for a bed, choose a loam 
 which is deep and mellow, as well as moist and fertile. In 
 the summer season, it is desirable to have a situation that is 
 shaded during the middle of the day ; but at other times, the 
 bed ought to have the full benefit of the sun, and be protected 
 on the north from cold winds. 
 
 Fo7' salads. — The seed may be sown at all seasons of the 
 year ; — in the open air, when the weather will permit, or else 
 in gentle hot-beds, or in boxes kept in warm windows. The 
 seed is put very thickly in shallow drills, about four inches 
 apart, and covered with fine mold to the depth of one third of 
 an inch. The sowing must be repeated every week or two, 
 according to the supply of leaves required. A proper degree 
 of moisture appears to b© very essential to quick germination, 
 and, therefore, a generous sprinkling of water is to be given, 
 "when the sowing is not followed by showers. In the course of 
 a few days, the plants will be of a suitable siae for cutting, — 
 "which is a much better mode of gathering them, than to pull 
 them up by your fingers. Tliey ought to be used soon 
 after being picked, and be carefully washed from dirt and 
 ^rit before taken to the table. 
 
 JPor the production of seed, — as well for its use in the man- 
 ufacture of ground mustard, as for subsequent sowings, the 
 bed must be made in the middle of spring. Tlie soil should 
 be deep and mellow. Sow tliinly in drills eighteen inches 
 
DICTIONARY. 213 
 
 apart When the plants have attained the fourth leaf, they 
 are to be Avell hoed, and thinned to the distance of ten or 
 twelve inches in the drill During the season, the ground must 
 be frequently stirred, and kept free from weeds. Should the 
 weather be dry at the time tlie flowers open, water may be 
 appUed to the roots with advantage. The pods are to be col- 
 lected when they change color, but not tlu'eshed until they 
 become perfectly dry. 
 
 Use. — Tlie leaves and seeds of both species are used for 
 salads, pickles, and the manufacture of ground mustard; 
 although for the latter purpose the black species is generally 
 considered preferable. The seeds of both have valuable medic- 
 inal properties, in cases of rheumatism, palsy and asthma, 
 and are of common use in emetics and poultices. Grround 
 mustard as a condiment is spoken of highly by physicians, as 
 it warms the stomach, creates an appetite, and strengthens the 
 digestive organs. 
 
 NASTim.TnjM.—See INDIAN CRESS. 
 
 NEW ZEALAND SPIN ACR.—Tetraffonia expansa. 
 
 A large, spreading plant, the native country of which is suf- 
 ficiently indicated by its name. It was carried to England by 
 Sir Joseph Banks, and it has been introduced into this country 
 within a few years, as a substitute for the common spinach. It 
 proves to be a valuable addition to our gardens. The flavor 
 of the leaves is excellent, and there is this additional advant- 
 age attending its cultivation, viz. : that it will flourish through 
 a severe drought, when other vegetables are nearly destroyed 
 by the heat. This is a very important consideration. 
 
 Culture. — The success of plants grown for their succulent 
 leaves, depends more upon the character of the soil, than upon 
 
214 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 the degree of skill and care which may be manifestod in the other 
 details of their cultivation. F<jr the New Zealand spinach we 
 would prefer a bed of mellow loam, that is deep and has been 
 made rich by the liberal application of manure. The situation 
 should be open. Sow in the months of Apiil or May, accord- 
 ing to the forwardness of the season, in drills two feet apart. 
 The seeds should be dropped thinly along the drill, — say six 
 inches asunder, and covered with fine mold to the depth of one 
 inch. Should the seeds all vegetate, the plants would be too 
 much Crowded, and they must be thinned out to distances of at 
 least twenty inches. Those which are taken up may be set out 
 in another bed. By keeping the ground well tilled, not only 
 for the benefit to be derived from atmospheric influences, but 
 also to prevent the encroachments of weeds, the plants will 
 grow very luxm'iantly. The number required for a family t>f 
 moderate size is not large. 
 
 Use. — Besides tlie use to be made of the leaves like com- 
 mon spinach, the green seeds are excellent for pickhng pur- 
 poses. From the fact that the plant suffers but little inconve- 
 nience from hot weather, it seems well adapted to the notice of 
 the reader. 
 
 OKRA. — Ilibiseus eseulentus. 
 
 The okra plant is an annual from the West Indies, where 
 it is held in high esteem for use in soups and stews. It is fre- 
 quently known under the name of Gumbo, and attains a height 
 of four or five feet. It has not been much cultivated in thid 
 country until within a very few years, but it is now gradually 
 acquiring popularity, in consequence of an impression that it is 
 particularly wliolesome. We do not rank it among the fancy 
 vegetables, but think it eminently worthy of a place in every 
 family garden. Those who make use of it one season, will not 
 afterwards be willingly Avitliout it. 
 
DICTIONARY. 215 
 
 CoLTURE. — Sow the seeds rather thickly, in drills three feet 
 apart. The proper time for doing this, is in the first part of 
 May, when the weather becomes settled, and about the usual 
 period for planting Indian corn. The most congenial soil is 
 rich and light, warm and dry. Cover the seed nearly an inch 
 deep. Should the plants be destroyed by late frost, do not 
 hesitate to make a second sowing. But, when they are consid- 
 ered out of all danger, they are to be thinned to distances of 
 ten or twelve inches in the drill. Keep the ground mellow, 
 and occasionally draw a little up around the stalks, to steady 
 them against the wind. Under proper management, they will 
 grow four or five feet high, and bear abundantly. The pods are 
 best for use, when in a green state, and so tender as to snap 
 easily ; in fa,ct, they are worthless when they become old and 
 tougk Cooks who are not as well acquainted with this fact 
 as they should be, may perhaps think that the excellence of 
 the vegetable is much over estimated. 
 
 Use. — The young pods are excellent, if boiled and served 
 with butter, and seasoned with a little pepper, salt and nut- 
 meg ; but they are most valued for the rich flavor they impai't 
 to soups, stews and sauces. It is said that the rijx3 seeds, after 
 being properly roasted, form a very good substitute for coffee. 
 Tlie pods are easily preserved for use tlirougli the whole year, 
 by being cut into narrow rings or slices, and then dried. Spread 
 tJie slices on a board, or else put them in strings like dried ap- 
 ple. Keep them in paper bags. If picked wlien they are 
 tender and juicy, they will be as good in winter as though 
 fresh.. 
 
 Griimho. — -Take equal quantities of the oki-a, chopped fine, 
 and ripe tomatoes, which have been skinned, a sliced onion, a 
 small piece of butter, together with salt and pepper to the 
 taste ; and stew the whole until tender, iu a st«w-pan, with a 
 tablespoonful of 'yater. 
 
216 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 ONION, — Allium cepa. 
 
 NotAvithstanding the many nice objections raised by orer- 
 fastidious people, to the use of the onion in the cuhnary de- 
 partment, it may justly be considered one of the most import- 
 ant vegetables, as well on account of its antiquity and general 
 dissemination, as of its value for domestic purposes. The name 
 onion is a corruption of unio, by which word the bulb is known 
 In the Latin language. It came originally from Asia, and is 
 desn>bed by modern travellers as growing plentifully in Egypt, 
 "where, on account of its mildness and easiness of digestion, it 
 can be eat "-n with more satisfaction than in any other country. 
 We read in Scripture that the discontented Israelites, in pass- 
 ing through tlib desert, murmured against the provisions of 
 G6d, and lamcntea <be loss of "tlie leeks, and the onions, and 
 the garlic," to which thoy had been accustomed. The Egypt- 
 ians are even reproachea with the worship of the Alliwn tribe j 
 thus Juvenal says : — 
 
 " How Egypt, mad witK superstition grown. 
 Makes gods of monsters, but too well is known. 
 'Tis mortal sin an onion ti^ devour ; 
 Each clove of garlic has a sa'^red power. 
 Religious nation, sure ! and ble^t abodes, 
 Where ev'ry garden is o'errun wii^ gods !" 
 
 The onion has been cultivated in this country since its first 
 .settlement, and in some sections very extensively for exporta- 
 tion. The inhabitants of Wetliersfield, in Connecti*"ut, a few 
 miles distant from Hartford, are celebrated for their sk'W and 
 success in this department of rural labor. Large tracts oi Vand 
 are devoted to this single crop, giving a comfortable support Co 
 quite a number of families. Much of the labor is performed 
 by women and children, which, of course, diminishes the cost 
 of cultivation and increases the profit. The best varieties fo? 
 
DICTIONARY. 217 
 
 a family garden, are thought to be — the New England Whiter 
 — the Yellow Strasburgh, — the Bed Dutch, — and the Silver- 
 gkinned. The latter is excellent for pickling. 
 
 Culture. — The onion needs a light, rich soil, founded upon 
 a dry substratum, and having a free, open exposure. In this 
 plant we find an exception to the general necessity for a rota- 
 tion of crops, as experience has demonstrated, that the onion 
 can be grown on the same spot of ground for three quarters of 
 a century, or more, without any apparent diminution in the 
 produce. This fact, however, by no means affects the princi- 
 ple, or the philosophy, of rotation ; because every one will 
 admit that were it possible to restore to the land what is ab- 
 stracted by a crop, economically as well as conveniently, the 
 same grain or vegetable might be raised in one particular lo- 
 cality until the end of time. As the onion does not take much 
 from the soil, which may not be returned to it by annual appli- 
 cations of manure, there is no necessity for alternating it with 
 other vegetables. If the soil be poor, it ought to be deeply 
 spaded in the autumn, enriched by a liberal application: of well 
 rotted dung, and thrown into ridges for exposure to. the weatb-- 
 er. In the spring, it may, peihap=», be well to give it a small 
 dressing of the dung takun from an old hot-bed, or some rich 
 compost. Indeed, many persons think there is but little dan- 
 ger of making it too rich. It should be bonie in mind, how- 
 ever, that fresh dung is apt to breed maggots, and engender 
 decay in the bulbs. 
 
 When tlie weather becomes settled in the middle of spring, 
 it will bi' time to get the ground in readiness for the reception 
 of the seed. The surface should be raked; smooth,' with care to 
 pulverize all the clods which may have escaped the spade. 
 The best bulbs are grown upon a liard bottom, and it is, there- 
 fore, advisable to roll the bed, or to beat it gently with the back- 
 of the spade. Draw drills onef(M)t apart, so shallow as to be 
 nothing more than mere i^iides for sowing the seed regularly. 
 19 
 
218 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 Sow moderately thick, because it is difficult to thin the plants 
 where they are much crowded, without doing them injury, A 
 smgle ounce of seed will be quite enough for one rod of land. 
 Cover the drills with a very little mellow dirt, and either tread 
 them down with the feet, or smooth the whole surface by walk- 
 ing upon a board. After this has been done, many gardeners 
 ai'e accustomed to strew upon the bed a tliin layer of sand, 
 ashes, or soot, especially if the soil be stiff ratlier tlian light. 
 Tlie operation of sowing ought always to be performed in dry, 
 pleasant weather. 
 
 The bed will require considerable attention at the begin* 
 ning of the season. When the plants are three inches high, 
 they are to be reduced in the drill to distances of two inches 
 apart. Onions intended for pickling should stand thickly, in 
 order to bring them early to maturity, as well as to prevent 
 their attaining too large a growth. By performing this oper- 
 ation in damp, cloudy weather, the superfluous plants can be 
 set out in another bed. As soon as they again crowd each 
 other, they must receive a second thinning, so as to stand 
 about four or five inches apart. Those which are pulled, can 
 be carried to the kitchen, where they will be gladly welcomed 
 for their small size and agreeable flavor. We must assure the 
 reader, that onions and weeds do not agree well when culti- 
 vated together in the same bed. It is not necessary to stir the 
 ground deeply, nor to bring it up around the plants ; cither of 
 which would prevent the proper growth of the bulbs. Indeed, 
 so objectionable is the hoe after the onions have once got ftiirly 
 started, it is much the best plan to throw it aside, and make 
 use of the fingers in keeping the drills clean. 
 
 Should there be danger of the crop running too much to 
 blade, it may be advisable, in the latter part of July, to check 
 the growth of the tops, and to throw the vigor of the roots 
 into the development of the bulbs. This is very important 
 with a late crop or in any case where there appears to be an 
 undue luxuriance. It is effected by bending over the stems 
 
DICTIONARY. 219 
 
 at the height of one or two inches above the bulbs. It may 
 be done most easily by means of a hoe handle, drawn over the 
 drills, from one end of the bed to tlie other. 
 
 The maturity of the crop will be indicated by the change 
 of color in the stems. When the onions are drawn, they must 
 not be housed immediately ; but, on the contrary, be exposed 
 to the sun for several days, being turned frequently, until they, 
 become dry and hard. They may then be separated from the 
 roots and tops, previous to being spread upon the floor of a 
 well-ventilated loft ; or they can be strung in ropes, to -be 
 hung up until wanted for use, or carried to mai-ket for sale. 
 It will be necessary to examine them often during the winter, 
 to avoid loss by moisture, which causes decay, or by warmth, 
 which promotes vegetation. 
 
 Where the cultivator desires larger onions than can be ma- 
 tured in a single season, under the course of culture above 
 described, he must take up the bulbs at midsummer, to be 
 planted in the following spring. The seed is tA^ sown thickly, 
 and the young plants are to be kept free from weeds. By 
 the middle of July, the bulbs will be about the size of small 
 cranberries, and are then to be raised, dried, and stored in a 
 dry, airy loft. In the next April, they shall be planted in 
 ground whicli has been properly dug and manured, in drills 
 one foot distant from each other. The beds should be well 
 rolled, and the bulbs are to be set merely on the surface, 
 without being covered with earth. The subsequent cultivation, 
 — in the sliape of weeding, storing, &,c., — is identical with that 
 of the crop harvested in the same year in which sown. 
 
 Far seed, — some of the best onions are to be planted in 
 early spring, upon a bed of light, ricli soil, and in rows some 
 eighteen inches apart each way. They should be inserted so 
 deep that the crowns are barely covered. The flower-stalks 
 will need support, lest they should be broken down by violent 
 windo. As soon as the seed ripens, the heads are to be gath- 
 
220 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 ered, and laid on a clotli to dry. The seed is best preserved 
 in a cool, dry apartment. 
 
 Use. — Onions are known to afford considerable nourish- 
 ment. When boiled, they seldom disagree with the healthy 
 stomach, and, as a general thing, may be thought wholesome. 
 The P'rench introduced onion soup as a restorative after any 
 unusual fatigue. Sir John Sinclair said, " It is a well known 
 fact, that a Highlander with a few raw onions in his pocket, and 
 a crust of bread or bit of cake, can work or travel to an almost 
 incredible extent for two or three days together, witliout any 
 other food." When eaten raw, they taint the breath consider- 
 ably, but this difficulty may be partially overcome, by eating 
 a few raw leaves of parsley directly after the onions. When 
 roasted, they are sometimes employed as a poultice for tu- 
 mors. The expressed juice is given as an expectorant in 
 coughs, and is rubbed on the skin to remove blotches or the 
 stings of insectsS- It would be a difficult matter to enumerate 
 all the virtues which have been ascribed to this popular bulb. 
 It is chiefly valuable in the family gai'den, however, for culi- 
 nary purposes. Boiling renders it much more wholesome, and 
 deprives it, in a great degree, of its strong taste and sraeli. 
 Used in the raw state, it is not easily digested, and frequently 
 remains in the stomach for a day or two. When roasted or 
 fried, it is quite as objectionable, and must be eaten sparingly, 
 if at all. It is a great favorite for seasoning dishes, particu- 
 larly with the French cook. 
 
 To boil. — Peel the onions, and put them into boiling milk, 
 or milk and water mixed. When they become tender, they 
 are to be taken from the fire, salted, and served with melted 
 butter. Changing- the water when they are about half-boiled^ 
 relieves them of much of their strong flavor. 
 
 To pickle. — Peel the onions, and boil tliem for ten minVites 
 in milk and water. To one gallon of vinegar, put one half 
 ounce of cinnamon and mace, one quarter ounce of cloves, one- 
 
DICTIONARY. 
 
 bait ounce of alum, together with a small teacuptul of salt. 
 The spiced vinegar is to be lieated, and turned, when scalding 
 hot, upon the onions, after they have been drained from the 
 milk and water. Cover them tiglit until they become cold. 
 
 Onion Sauce. — Take peeled onions, boil them till quite 
 tender, and then press out the water which they have absorbed. 
 Chop tliem fine, add butter melted in milk, and place the dish 
 again upon the fire. 
 
 Oxiox, (Potato).— &e POTATO ONIOK 
 
 ONioy, (Tree).— ^ee TREE ONION. 
 
 PARSLEY. — Apium petroselinunu 
 
 Parsley is a well known biennial, of hardy constitution, and 
 a native of Sardinia. It is found growing wild in many differ- 
 ent climates. Aside from the excellent properties for which 
 it is esteemed in the culinary department, it makes a very or- 
 nameo.fal appearance in the garden. There appear to be three 
 varieties, viz. : — the Cont//ion, — the Carl-leaved, — and the -Sam- 
 burgk. The first named is most generally cultivated, although 
 the second is distinguished by tlie superior beauty of its leaves. 
 Where the plant is used for its seasoning qualities alone, as in 
 soups and stews, it matters little which may be the particulr^r 
 variety ; but, for garnishiag, the Oitrled-leaoed is preferable. 
 The Hamburph is valued for its root, which is tender and pala- 
 table ; it is cultivated aad prepared for the table in the same 
 way a-5 the parsnip. 
 
 Culture. — Plants are obtained from seed, an ounce of 
 which will sow about one and a half rods of grourid. They 
 may be raised in a bed by themselves, but they make a very 
 pretty ed.^ing for the walks. In the first case, it will be nec- 
 essary to sow in drills one foot apart, rather before the mid- 
 dle of spring. Tlie seed should be dropped moderately thick, 
 19* 
 
222 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 and covered to the depth of half an inch. It vegetates sIoTflj, 
 sometimes not under a month, and it would be a g-ood plan to 
 steep it for twelve hours, either in wann water, or in sulphur- 
 water. Tliis steeping, together with an occasional application 
 of water in dry times, will greatly expedite the process of 
 germination. 
 
 It is often fonnd, that where tlie plants are dilatory in 
 showing themselves above ground, the weeds have opportu- 
 nity to take undistm-bed possession. No effort should be 
 spared to prevent the settlement of these intruders, for which 
 labor the gardener will derive much benefit from the tluimb 
 and forefinger, that are able to work in the drill where the 
 hoe might occasion daniage. The plants may be gathered as 
 wanted for use, as soon as they are two inches liigh ; at about 
 which time, they ought to be thinned out to distances of six 
 inches in the row. Where they seem disposed to grow too 
 rankly, it is advisable to cut them down, in order to secure the 
 formation of new shoots. If the cultivator wishes to raise 
 none other tl^an the Curled-leaved variety, he must be careful 
 to eradicate every i-oot of the Common, or plain-leaved, as 
 quick as it appears in the bed. 
 
 Parsley may be grown for winter use, with very little 
 trouble. The plants are to be cut down to the ground, in the 
 first part of autumn, in ordei' that new heads may grow before 
 the approach of severe frost. They will grow well under a 
 covering of straw, litter or evergreen branches ; or in a rough 
 board box ; but a cold frame is better than any other kind ol 
 protection. In this way, continued supplies of fresh leaves 
 can be obtained during extreme cold weather. 
 
 For seed, — permit some of the largest and best looking 
 plants to throw up flower-stalks. They ought not to be closely 
 crowded. The seed should be well dried, before any attempt 
 is made to thresh it. 
 
 Use. — The aromatic leaves are thought highl}^ of, for sea- 
 
DICTIONARY. 223 
 
 eoning various dishes, in addition to their value as a garnish, 
 A few, eaten raw, will remove the unpleasant taste and smell 
 of onions. When they cannoi be obtained fresh throughout 
 the year, a supply can be gathered in summer, dried before 
 the fire, broken fine by being rubbed between the hands, and 
 put in tight bottles. They have a high reputation in Holland 
 for the cure of the dropsy. Among other curious properties 
 ascribed to the plant, it is said to poison bhds who eat of it, 
 and sometimes to occasion epilepsy. 
 
 PARSNIP. — Pastinaca sativa. 
 
 According to Johnson, the botanic name, Pastinaca, is de- 
 rived from the Latin word for a dibble, pastinum, m allusion 
 to the long, tapering shape of the root. This is a very hardy 
 biennial, of which the original is probably the common wild 
 parsnip of southern Europe. In its natural state, it is of small 
 size, woody and poisonous. It has been greatly improved by 
 cultivation, and is at the present time much esteemed for 
 culinary purposes, being found nutritious as well as whole- 
 some. It is particularly valuable on account of its power of 
 standing severe frost without injury, and continuing goo^^br 
 use until the latter part of spring. The varieties are no^iu- 
 merous, and the Hollow-crowned is undoubtedly the best adapt- 
 ed to the wants of the family gardener. 
 
 Culture. — In regard to soil, the parsnip has a preference 
 for one that is dry and mellow, rich and of considerable depth. 
 A good sandy loam seems to be most suitable ; while only 
 poor crops can be expected from a gravel ov tenacious clay. 
 Depth and fertility are particularly necessary, because thereon 
 depend the length and size of the roots, In the latter part of 
 autumn, or the very commencement of spring, the ground se- 
 lected for the bed should be spaded or trenched two spits 
 deep; and, if it be not sufficiently rich, some well decomposed 
 
224 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 manure ought to be dug in Avith the lower spit. Sea-weed, 
 decayed forest leaves and bird's-dung, have been highly rec- 
 ommended as fertilizers, as being less liable to aliect the 
 quality of the roots, than common stable dung. In spading, 
 care is to be taken to break up all the clods or large lumps of 
 dirt, and to remove the largest stones. 
 
 Sow in drills, twelve inches apart, in April or May, accord- 
 ing to the forwardness of the season. One ounce of seed is 
 sufficient for rather more than a rod of ground. Drop the 
 seed thinly, and cover it nearly an inch deep. In dry weather, 
 vegetation will be hastened by rolling the surface of the bed, 
 or by treading down the drills with the feet. When the plants 
 have taken a good start, they are to be weeded and thinned 
 out in the drills ; but, it is not until they become fumly es- 
 tablisi^hed, that they sliall receive their final thinning. To en- 
 sure the formation of large roots, they ought to have plenty 
 of room, and stand not nearer together than six inches. It is 
 a bad plan to crowd vegetables hke the carrot and parsnip. 
 Make frequent use of the hoe, as well to keep the ground free 
 from weeds, as to prevent its becoming hard or baked. 
 
 Parsnips do not attain maturity until cold weather is near 
 at hand. They will be found fit for use as soon as the leaves 
 decay, in the month of October, but their sweetness and agree- 
 able flavor are much improved by frost. This fact is so well 
 understood, that many cultivators are accustomed to let the 
 roots remain in tlie bed through the winter ; or, at least, to 
 take up only a number sufficient for the wants of the family 
 while the ground is closed, and to harvest the balance of the 
 crop in the spring. They ought to be dug very carefully, 
 witliout being cut or bruised by the spade any more than is 
 miavoidable ; and, for preservation, must be packed in layers 
 of sand, in a shed or cool cellar. 
 
 For seed. — Some of the best plants should be left in the 
 bed where grown ; or else set out in a border, some time during 
 the early part of spring. They ought to be in rows, about two 
 
DICTIONARY. 225 
 
 feet apart each way. In continued dry weather, it will be 
 found of advantage to apply water every three or four days. 
 Lay the flower-lieads upon a cloth, and suffer them to get 
 fully dry, before you attempt to thresh out the seed. 
 
 Use. — The parsnip has many valuable qualities, which 
 commend it to both the farmer and the gardener. It is thousrht 
 highly of for feeding to domestic animals. Hogs and bullocks 
 are fattened upon it in a very short space of time, and the flesh 
 is considered of superior flavor ; while in cows it produces an 
 extraordinary yield of milk, having a rich color, and affording 
 butter of an excellent quality. Its character in the kitchen is 
 well established. Although disliked by some persons on ac- 
 count of its peculiar sweetish taste, it is certainly wholesome, 
 and proves very acceptable at that season of tlie year when 
 in perfection, and when other vegetables are so few in number. 
 It excites appetite, and physicians think it wholesome for con- 
 valescents. It is sometimes manufactured into ardent spirits, 
 wine and marmalade ; while in Ireland, it is used with hops 
 for brewing a kind of beer much liked by the pea-gantry. The 
 seeds are occasionally employed in intermittent fevers. 
 
 To boil. — "Wash and split the roots, lay them in a ^w- 
 pan with the flat sides down, and just cover them with boiling 
 water, into which a little salt has been tin-own. When they 
 are quite tender, pare and butter them, and carry immediately 
 to the table. Cold boiled parsnips are good, when cut into 
 tliin slices, dipped into butter, and fried brown. 
 
 PEA. — Pisum sativum. 
 
 The ori-inal locality of tliis hardy annual seems to be un- 
 known. It has been cultivated in India, China and Japan, 
 for many centuries, and was introduced into this countrv at 
 the time of its first settlement. It probably went to Great 
 Britain iVo:;i Italy. In the reign of Queen Elizabetli, the most 
 
22-6 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 delicate varieties were brought from Holland, aud Fuller ob- 
 serves that they were " fit dainties for ladies, they came so far, 
 and cost so dear." At the present day, the pea is very exten- 
 sively diffused, and is well known as one of the most impor- 
 tant culinary plants. The varieties are numerous, differing in 
 stature, productiveness, the color of the flowers, and the tune' 
 of ripening. We mention several of the choicest kinds, being 
 such as we can recommend to the notice of the reader. Each 
 one has some distinguishhig feature which makes it worthy of 
 cultivation, yet no more than four or five out of the list will 
 be wanted in a small family garden. There is much deception 
 practised in selling peas for seed, and the inexperienced pur- 
 chaser will be very likely to discover a great similarity in the 
 character of his crops. One variety is sometimes known under 
 two or three names. This should be a caution to the reader 
 to buy of those persons only, who have a reputation to sustain 
 for honesty and fair dealing. 
 
 We enumerate — the Prince Albert, — the Cedo Nulli, — 
 LandreilCs Extra Early, — the Early Frame, — the Early War- 
 wick, — Bishop's Dwarf, — the Charlton, — the Blue Imperial, — 
 Woodford s Marrow, — the Divarf Sugar, — and Knight'.'i Dwarf 
 a,ini^Vrinkled Marrows. If the reader desire a longer list, we 
 imm, refer him to some seedsman who raises new varieties for 
 sale. Those above mentioned are all excellent for the kitchen. 
 The Prince Albert is the earliest sort with which we are 
 acquainted, and should be sown for the first crop. The others 
 are aiiauged in nearly their order of coming to maturity. The 
 Dwarf- ISuyar peas are eaten with the pods, like string-beans. 
 
 Culture. — The dwarf kinds are best pleased with a soil 
 that is light, di-y, and moderately rich ; while those of a lofty 
 growth need a loam of greater depth and fertility. Where it 
 is rank, the cultivator will find himself rejDaid by a very luxu- 
 riant set of vine's, but the crop will be small. Tlie application 
 of fresh dung at the time of sowing, or shortly previous thereto, 
 
DICTIONARY. 2Tf^ 
 
 is positively injurious. Only well decomposed manure or 
 compost should be given at that season of the year ; and, after 
 all, it IS decidedly the best way, to select such ground as Is iu 
 good condition after a crop, having been enriched some months 
 previous. 
 
 Forcing under glass is often resorted to, but the majority 
 of family gardeners are content with open air crops. To 
 have green peas as early as possible in the season is, of course, 
 very desirable ; and there is frequently found, among persons 
 living in the same neighborhood, a good-natured rivalry in ob- 
 taining the quickest returns. Many are in the habit of raising 
 early plants on a gentle hot-bed, or even in a simple cold 
 frame, to be transferred to the open ground as soon as it can 
 be done with safety. The peas are sown in long, narrow boxes, 
 formed of two boards put together in the shape of the letter 
 V. The germs will be speedily roused into action under the 
 glass, and, as the season advances, they must be gradually 
 hardened, that they may not suffer injury from being trans- 
 planted. By taking off one end of the box, the earth, toge* 
 ther with the young plants, can be ea?;ily pushed into the drill 
 prepared for their reception. If done carefully, the roots will 
 not experience the least inconvenience from the change. This 
 simple process will hasten the crop many days. 
 
 The first sowing in the open air, should be in March, as 
 6oon as the frost leaves the ground, and there is a prospect of 
 continued pleasant weather. Successive plantations can be 
 made every fortnight or three weeks thereafter, until the 
 middle of August, but the heat of summer is so unfavorable to 
 the young vines that the sowings are often interrupted at the 
 end of 'May, and resumed somewhere about the beginning of 
 August. By doing this, the table can be kept supplied for 
 several months together. 
 
 The earliest sowings in the open air should be in the 
 warmest part of the garden, in beds having the full benefit of 
 the sun's ray.", but, at the same time, sheltered from cold winds 
 
GAUBENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 "which might retard vegetation. The border on the east or 
 soutli side of a fence, is an excellent situation. Sow moder- 
 ate!/ thick — say from an inch and a half to two inches asunder, 
 •—in drills, whicli are four feet apart for the dwarf varieties^ 
 and five or six feet apart for the other kinds. "With some of 
 the dwarfs the distance might be even less; the Bishop's 
 Dwarf, for instance, can be grown in drills not more than two 
 feet asunder. But a free circulation of air is so essential to the 
 vigor of the plants, that we are always willing to allow them 
 more room than they actually require, and to occupy the in- 
 tervening spaces with cauliflower, cabbage, lettuce, and such 
 other vegetables as will be benefited by their shade. 
 
 It is usual to make two rows in each drill, nine inches from 
 each other, and about two inches deep; because then less 
 ground is required for the plantation, while the cost of setting 
 brush will be diminished one half. One quart of seed will 
 plant from forty to eighty yards of row, and when the soil is 
 dry, the seed ought to be soaked in warm water at least twen- 
 ty-four hours before the time of sowing. When the weather 
 becomes very Wiirm, if watef be poured into the rows before 
 they are covered, the time required for the germination of the 
 seed will be considerably shortened. The extent of the vari- 
 ous sowings may, perhaps, be determined with tolerable accu- 
 racy from the experiments of Bradley, who ascertained that, 
 on an average, three rods of land, containing eighteen double 
 rows, yielded thirty-six quarts of shelled peas, 
 
 la early spring, should any injury from severe cold weather 
 be apprehended, the sowings might be protected by tliiu layers 
 of straw, litter, or evergreen brush. When the plants are two 
 inches high, the soil should be thoroughly loosened by the hoe, 
 and a little drawn up against tlie stems for their support. 
 This must be repeated once or twice previous to the time of 
 •' brusliiug," with care to destroy every upstart weed. As soon 
 as the plants show their tendrils, or when about nine inches in 
 height, " brushing" should be performed. Gardeners generally 
 
DICTIONARY. 229 
 
 make use of cedar tops, trimmings of apple trees, or some 
 other refuse stuff with small twigs, for the support of tlie ten- 
 drils, sharpened at the lower end, and between four and seven 
 feet high — according to the variety cultivated. They are to 
 be firmly inserted between the rows, and sufiRciently close to- 
 gether to sustain all the vines. It is a much neater plan, to 
 stretch twine on each side of the drill, tying it to stakes that 
 stand some six or eight feet asunder, by which means, the 
 vines will be kept upright, without the assistance of the un- 
 sightly brush. The Bishop's Dwarf does not require staking. 
 
 When the plants of the early and late sowings are in blos- 
 som, and the flowers on the lower part of the stalks begin to 
 fade, it is a good practice to stop the growth of the leading 
 shoots, by pinching off the terminal buds. By doing tliis, the 
 strength of the roots is spent wholly upon the development of 
 the pods, thus hastening the maturity of the crop. In time of 
 drought, and in certain situations, even during ordinary dry 
 "Weather, water may be applied with marked advantage, by 
 pouring it between the rows. We have saved entire planta- 
 tions, with a few minutes' labor at^evening, after the vines, in 
 consequence of the heat and want of moisture, had turned 
 yellow for several inches above the ground. When artificially 
 watered, they continue in a vigorous state, resisting disease 
 and bearing abundantly, while less favored vegetables are al- 
 most burned up. It is said, that if the pods be gathered reg- 
 ularly as they become fit for use, with care not to injm-e the 
 stems, the produce will be larger and ontinueJ for a greater 
 length of time. 
 
 The pea-bug is a small brown insect, which derives its 
 name from its habits of preying on this vegetable. Tiie g^,':^ 
 is deposited by the parent fly in the soft pod, and the mi»ute 
 maggot Works his way into the very heart of the pea, there to 
 perfect it^ gn>\vth. llaxu-e Dr. Harris observes, that few per- 
 sons in eating a plateful oi green pea-^, " are aware how many 
 insects they unconsciously swallow." The beetle emerges from 
 20 
 
230 SARBEIVJER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 its hiding place, near the time for planting in the following 
 spring. The germ is seldom injured, but the vegetable is ren- 
 dered unfit for winter use. We would advise soaking the 
 seed in boiling water for about a minute, and then rolling it in 
 ashes or plaster, whereby the bug will be destroyed, and the 
 germ roused at once into action. Care must be taken, however, 
 to prevent the destniction of the seed as well as of the bug. 
 With the crop intended for drying, it is advisable to plant late, 
 after the time for the parent fly to deposit its eggs has passed. 
 A disease called the " mildew," is caused by the want of mois* 
 ture. 
 
 For sfcd, — save none but the best plants. New and im* 
 proved kinds have been thus obtained, and what has been done 
 once can be done again. Even if you cause no improvement 
 in the variety, you will prevent its degenerating. The pods 
 should be gathered when dry, and, after being kept several 
 days in a cool place, for all surplus moisture to escape, are to 
 be shelled, and stowed away in paper bags or boxes. 
 
 Use. — Tlie anxiety manifested by gardeners in the neigh- 
 borhood of cities to raise the first crops for market, is mdic' 
 ative of the general regard in which the vegetable is lield> 
 In the green state, peas are light and wliolesome, and on ac- 
 count pf their earliness, form a grateful addition to the diruier- 
 tabl& 1'hey can be easily preserved for winter use by drying 
 them on cloths in the shade, and keeping them from mildew ; 
 by soaking them a few hours in water, they will be as good as 
 though freshly picked. When ripe, they are used in puddings 
 and soups ; and are considered nutritious, although unfit for 
 verv delicate stomachs. They have, moreovei", an agricultural 
 importance, being known to be one of the best kinds of pro^ 
 render for cattle and poultry. 
 
 To boil. — Green peas should be freshly gathered, and not 
 shelled until a few minutes before the time of cooking. Wash 
 them clean, and then put them into boiling water, with eala- 
 
DICTIOXAUY. 231 
 
 ratus in tlie proportion of one quarter of a teaspoonful to one 
 luilf peck of peas. When they are tender, take them up by 
 means of a skimmer, put a piece of butter in the dish, and 
 sprinkle on a little salt. 
 
 Pea Soup. — Stew one pint of green peas in a phit of water, 
 w^ith an ounce of butter, a few leaves of lettuce, onions, pep- 
 per and salt, till they become soft, when you are to add more 
 water, and stew until they are quite tender. If the peas have 
 been dried, they should be soaked for twelve hours in a warm 
 place, boiled for an hour, drained, put in fresh water, to- 
 gether with a piece of salt pork, and further boiled till they 
 ai'e soft. 
 
 Pennyroyal, — See MIXT. 
 
 PEPPER.— (7a;)Sicww. 
 
 Capsicum is the name given to several species of plants 
 found in South America, as well as in the East and West In- 
 dies, Though numerous, they all agree in their pungent prop- 
 erties, and are easily distinguished by their red or yellow 
 pods, which contain many small, flat seeds. 
 
 Culture. — The best soil is one that is rich, mellow, dry, 
 and in a wai-m situation. One ounce of seed will yield be- 
 tween two and three thousand plants. The earliest sowing 
 can be made in March, upon a gentle hot-bed ; or delayed 
 until the first part of May, in a sheltered boi'der. Cover the 
 seed near half an inch deep. When the plants are two inches 
 high, they shall be removed to their final location, to be set 
 in rows two feet apart each way. Until they become estab- 
 lished, protect them from the noonday sun ; and occasionally, 
 during all tlrv weather, give tliem gentle sprinklings of water 
 Keep the soil open and clean. 
 
 Fur seed, — plants bearing the most forward and best- 
 shaped fruit must be selected. When the pods are ripe, they 
 
232 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 are to be hung up to dry in a wai-m room, where tliey can ha 
 kept through the winter. 
 
 Use. — In hot climates, the fruit of these plants is much 
 used for culinary purposes, being eaten in lai'ge quantities 
 with both animal and vegetable food, and mixed, in different- 
 proportions, Avith almost every kind of sauce. In family gar- 
 dens of this country, it is generally cultivated for pickling, and 
 should be gathered before it ripens. For the manufacture of 
 Cayenne pepper, it is dried in the sun, and then ground. In 
 addition to the value of Cayenne for seasoning dishes, it has 
 some medicinal virtues, and is often rubbed upon meats to 
 preserve them from insects. 
 
 Peppermint. — See MINT. 
 
 POTATO. — Solanum tuberosum. 
 
 Sir Joseph Banks thought, that this well known vegetable 
 was originally brought to Spain from the nn)untainous dis- 
 tricts of South America, where it may yet be found growing 
 in a Avild state. Its history is involved in some obscurity, in 
 consequence of its being frequently confounded with the sweet 
 potato, from which root it seems to have derived its name. 
 It was carried to England in 1586, from Sir Walter Raleigh's 
 colony of Virginia, and was first cultivated upon his estate at 
 Youghall, in Ireland. Clusius, a European writer, mentions 
 it about the year 1588. Its character was then by no means 
 settled, and for a long time the tubers were treated as fruit, 
 being eaten Avith sugar, or baked in pies with wine and spices. 
 They were purchased as a great delicacy for the table of 
 Queen Anne, at the cost of two shillings per pound. So much 
 opposition was manifested to its culture, that its' introduction 
 into many parts of the Eastern continent is of comparatively 
 recent ddte. Thus, some writers did not hesitate to call it fit 
 for swine alone. While even the celebrated Evelyn, at the 
 very close of the seventeenth century, advised that it be 
 
DICTIONARY. 233 
 
 planted in the worst land. Otiiers based their objeirtions on 
 religious ground:^, paying that what is " not mentioned in the 
 Bible "' cannot Le fit for tlie food of man. It did not reach 
 Switzerland until 1*720, and the French were so much preju- 
 diced .against it, that its cultivation did not become general 
 among them until during a time of scarcity in the llevolution. 
 JN'or did the peasantry of Italy receive it into favor, until their 
 cupidity had been excited by the rewards which government 
 oiiered to those who cultivated it most successfully ; it is true, 
 that they were afterwards so well convinced of its value during 
 a severe famine, that they proudly refused to take the pre- 
 miums to which they had become entitled. But this diversity 
 of opinion has long since jjassed away, and the potato is con- 
 sidered one of our most important field and garden crops. 
 
 In consequence of the faciUty with which it is propagated 
 by seed, as well as of the distinctive character which it ac- 
 quires from a change of soil, cUmate and management, its 
 varieties are very numerous, — being dissimilar in form, ap- 
 pearance, size, quality for the kitchen, and productiveness. 
 Every section has its fixvorite sorts, which either improve or 
 deteriorate by removal to another district. Thus, tlie far- 
 famed Irish potato loses its valuable properties, when trans- 
 planted to this country ; and a kind that is higlily esteemed 
 in one part of our broad Union, is only second or third-rate in 
 another quarter. Prejudice has undoubtedly something to 
 do in this matter, but it chiefly results from certain natural 
 causes, which might easily be explained. It will be seen, 
 therefore, that we can only enumerate the principal varieties, 
 and leave the considenition of their respective merits wiUi 
 the reader : these are — Foxh Seedling, — the Early Kidney ~ 
 the Jlerccr, — the Pink Eyes, — the Foxite, — [lie Liverpool' 
 Blues, — and the Blue Jackets. We believe the above to be 
 the very best in general cultivation; still, for the reasons just 
 named, there may be other kinds equally good, and perhaps 
 much better than some includsd in the list. 
 20* 
 
234 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 New varieties are obtained from seed. With the gardener 
 who has time to spare, sucli experiments are very interesting, 
 to say nothing of their actual importance in producing esti- 
 mable kinds for cultivation. The apples should be gathered 
 when ripe, and the seeds washed therefrom, dried in a warm 
 window, and put away in paper bags. By the first of May 
 following, the seeds are to be sown in drills, one third of an 
 inch deep, and ten inches apart, upon a bed of fine, mellow 
 earth. The plants, when three inches high, are to be thinned 
 out to distances of eight inches in the drill, and those taken 
 up in cloudy weather, can be set out in another bed. Culti- 
 vate carefully through the summer, — destroying weeds, and 
 occasionally bringing a little soil around the stems. In au- 
 tumn, at the time the vines wither, gather the small tubers, 
 and keep them in separate paper bags ; to be planted the 
 next season, at such distances apart as will prevent any in- 
 termixture or confusion of sorts. When the crop rij^ens, such 
 tubers as appear desirable for extraordinary size, flavor, early 
 season of matuiity, or productiveness, may be reserved for 
 the following spring ; while all others are thrown to the pigs. 
 
 Culture. — Potatoes are raised in nearly every kind of 
 soil, altliougli experience has shown the superiority of a light 
 loam over all others. For the want of a little forethought in 
 the selection of the ground, formers often find the crop small, 
 or, if large, of very poor quality. We think it generally un- 
 derstood, tliat a fresh loam which is light, moderately rich, 
 and somewhat moist, is better than one of a wet, hard, or 
 tenaci()us character. Unless it be quite loose and friable, it is 
 always the best plan to dig it deeply in autumn, letting it lie 
 in ridges to court tlie action of frost in winter, and levelling it 
 in the spring. In regard to manures, unfermented barn-yard 
 dung is by many considered objectionable, on account of a real, 
 or fancied, unpleasant taste which it communicates to the tu- 
 bers ; and, for this reason, if it be necessarily used, it should 
 
DICTIONARY. 235 
 
 be spread over the whole surface and dug under, rather than 
 put in close contact with the seed. Lime or gypsuui, ashes, 
 bone-dust, charcoal, etc., make excellent additions to the soil, 
 rendering it fertile without causing rankness. 
 
 To avoid disappointment and delay, the seed should be 
 got in readiness some days before tlie time of planting. At 
 this stage of our inquiry, we find another of those important 
 questions wliich can never be put to rest, viz. : " Shall the po- 
 tatoes be planted whole, or after being cut up into sets ?" 
 Each method has its ad\^ocates, and the respective advantages 
 of each have been again and again ascertained by actual exper- 
 iment, but with results as variable as the movements of the 
 weathercock. From personal observation, we think that if 
 the tuber be of a medium size, it may be planted whole, or if 
 large, cut into four five or six pieces. At least two buds, 
 or eyes, should be retained in every set. The point of 
 the potato is found to come to maturity about a fortnight ear- 
 lier than the root end, — a fact which may, with propriety, be 
 noted for the first crops. Wlien the sets are cut, they ought to 
 be laid on a floor to dry, for about a week previous to the date 
 of planting. Sprinkling them with water, and covering with 
 a thin layer of mold, so as to sprout the buds, is attended with 
 not a little trouble and considerable danger of injury to the 
 young shoots. 
 
 Lay the ground out into drills, about two feet apart, and 
 eiglit inches deep. In the bottom of each, spread three inches 
 of manure, over which is to be throwm a little loose earth for 
 the reception of the sets. Put them eight or ten inches apart, 
 and witli the eyes uppermost. When one drill is planted, fill 
 it up with three or four inches of mold, and proceed to the 
 next one. For the general crop, the time of planting will be 
 somewhere near the middle of April, although a good yield is 
 frequently obtained from seed planted a month earlier in the 
 season. Forcing is often resorted to, in order to secure a quick 
 return. Our general directiop« in the article headed " Foro 
 
236 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 rxt! Vegetation," are quite sufficient. The hot-bed need not 
 be very large, but it sliould have sixteen or eighteen inches of 
 good soil upon the top, so as to afford plenty of room for the 
 formation of roots. 
 
 When the young vines appear above the ground, the duties 
 of after-culture commence. The soil should be thoroughly 
 loosened by the hoe, as well to admit light and air, as to check 
 the further progress of weeds. A little mold is from time to 
 time to be drawn around the stems for their support, and for the 
 benefit of the roots — both to prevent their pushing themselves 
 through the surface, and to guard them against excessive 
 moisture. Care must be taken not to make so large a ridge, 
 as to occasion harm rather than good; the proper heiglit is de- 
 pendent upon such circumstances as climate, season, soil, and 
 the variety cultivated. For a potato patch no part of the 
 treatment is more essential, than the systematic and thorough 
 use of the hoe ; but it must not be continued after the blossoms 
 have set, because it will then encourage a new growth of 
 ■fibres, which, without being able to arrive at maturit}', rob the 
 first growth of the nourishment that is necessary to their per- 
 fection. After that period, the gardener will be obliged to 
 make use of his fingers, in extracting such weeds as persist in 
 showing themselves among the drills. Botanists and practical 
 cultivators have decided, that the crop is much benefited by 
 picking off the blossom buds before they are ready to open. 
 Whether the trouble will be counterbalanced by the increased 
 produce, can be decided by individual experiment. 
 
 The time when the potatoes are fully ripened, will be indicat- 
 ed by the decay of the vines. They are, however, taken up long 
 before this, and exposed for sale under the tempting name of 
 " new potatoes." We do not hesitate to condemn the practice, 
 believing that these walnut-sized tubers are almost as desti- 
 tute of nourishment, if not quite as unwholesome, as unripe 
 cherries or apples. But, it is true that they are fit for use 
 Rometime previous to the witherinjj of the stems, and can bo 
 
DICTIONARY. 237 
 
 dug as wanted. We object only to taking tlicm up before 
 they are scarcely half grown. Tlie main part of the crop in- 
 tended for storing, ought not to be harvested until vegetation 
 has ceased. 
 
 In a large plantation, the drills are often opened by the 
 plough, which is a cheap and expeditious way ; in a garden at 
 that season, the team will be liable to do injury, and recourse 
 must be had to the hoe, fork, or long-handled shovel. The 
 latter is a very effective implement for the labor, particularly 
 in the hands of an honest Hibernian. The roots will be injured 
 by the heat of the sun, and, if not dug in cloudy weather, should 
 be thrown into small heaps covered with a few of the dead 
 vines, for the escape of the surplus moisture. Handle them 
 carefully, so as not to bruise or injure them any more than can- 
 not be avoided. They are generally stored in the cellar, in 
 large bins, or common flour barrels, — a little straw being thrown 
 upon the top, to prevent exposure to the air. At other times, 
 they are piled in a pyramidal or conical heap, in some unoccu- 
 pied part of the garden. The heap ought to be in a dry spot, 
 thatched with straw, with ten inches of dirt upon the outside, 
 made smooth so as to shed the rain, and encircled by a trencli 
 to conduct away the water. Such as are kept in the cellar 
 must be frequently examined, for tlie purpose of picking out 
 decayed ones, and preventing the growth of sprouts — which 
 would injure their" quality, both for use on the table and 
 planting as seed. 
 
 The disease called the " curl," although long known, seems 
 so far to have baffled investigation. Some experiments made 
 in Great Britain indicated, that gathering the tubers for seed 
 before they become fully ripe, adds greatly to the amount and 
 certainty of the crop. We have yet said nothing in regaid to 
 the " rot," which has prevailed so extensively ft)r a few years 
 past, and showed itself, last season, in places where it had not 
 before been known. It is a matter of so much importance to the 
 gardener, that to pass over it without comment, might well be 
 
238 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 deemed inexcusable in tlie autlior of a work like this. And 
 so, a lew words in relation to it may be expected from us, even 
 though we liave notliing new to advance. The failure of the 
 potato crdjD in Ireland and other parts of Europe, for several 
 years in succession, and the consequent suffering among the 
 pctorer classes, are facts still fresh in our minds, and which, 
 indeed, cannot easily be forgotten. The disease has been 
 scarcely less fatal in our own country, althougli attended with 
 less melancholy results. Tlie attention of the most eminent 
 scientific men has been drawn to the subject, and still, little or 
 nothing of value has thus far been elicited. We are, probably, 
 as ignorant as ever of the cause of the disease, and we, cer- 
 tainly, have not yet found a remedy. This little book would 
 hardly c<»ntain all the alleged pieventives, that have been 
 brought forward in our agricultural journals, and a small num- 
 ber of wliich we ourselves have tested, with results varying 
 from season, temperature, soil, exposure and manure. If we 
 have any opinion of our own, it is briefly this — to plant upon 
 new and long-uncultivated ground, with such fertilizers as lime, 
 ashes, charcoal, and salt, instead of stable-dung, and especially 
 that which is unfermented. The subject has been again revived, 
 and is open for tlie exercise of learning and sagacity ; but we 
 much fear, that the great moving cause of the contagion will 
 prove as mysterious, as the principle of " the pestilence that 
 walketh in darkness." 
 t 
 Use. — The discovery of the potato plant has been of more 
 benefit to mankind than the discovery of gunpoAvder. The 
 one destroys, while the other feeds, — liaving, it is said, added 
 millions to the population of Europe, and rendei'ed unknown, 
 until within a few years, tliose famines that were so frequent 
 and so distressing. If we search the whole round of the vege- 
 table kingdom, we find no member more geneially valuable, 
 as well as more extensively cultivated. The roots, when of a 
 good quality and well cooked, are wholesome and rmtritious, 
 
DiCTTONATlY. 239 
 
 forming a staple article of foocl> of which the appetite never 
 tires. With the poor tliey a.re one of the greatest blessings o\ 
 the soil, being " tiour witliout a mill, and bread without aw 
 oven." Mixed in certain proportions with wheat tl )ur, they 
 make a most excellent family bread; when ground into ilour, 
 they are used by confectioners ; and they are manufactured 
 into starchy tapioca, yeast, alcohol, and sugar. The stalk cart 
 be converted into potash, and a sort of flax ; and the apples 
 yield vinegar ; while soap can be extracted from the tubercles. 
 
 Irish mode of 6oi/2>-^.— Wash the potatoes clean, but do 
 not pare them ; then put them into hot water, and boil them 
 until a fork can be readily inserted. Dash in a pint of cold 
 water, and in two minutes afterward, pour off the whole. Now 
 set the pot, with the lid half drawn, either over the Are, oi* 
 near it, for the steam to evaporate ; when the potatoes may bo 
 peeled, and carried to the table in an uncovered dish. If they 
 be of a good kind, this mode of cooking will render them sweet) 
 dry and mealy, veiy different from the water-soaked lumpg 
 too often seen. 
 
 To roast. — Select potatoes of a nearly equal size, that they 
 may all occupy about the same length of time in cooking. 
 After they are washed clean, put tliem in a tin pan, and bake 
 in a stove or oven. Send them to the table unskinned . 
 
 Potato Bread. — Boil the potatoes very soft, when they are 
 to be peeled and mashed as fine as possible. They are then 
 to be mixed with two thirds their weight of flour, and made 
 into dough with lukewarm water. Add a little salt and butter, 
 and work in the yeast, together with flour sufficient to stiffen 
 the dough. It rises quicker than common bread, and is more 
 economical, and continues fresh for a longer time. It should 
 be baked as soon as risen, for it will, otherwise, turn sour in tho 
 course of a few hours. 
 
 POTATO OMOl^.— Allium tuberosum. 
 
 Not unfrequently called the under-ground onion, in conse 
 
240 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 quence (if its producing clusters of offsets from the roots. 
 Plant in March or Api-il,— tlie bulbs being ten inches from 
 each other, in rows one foot apart, and having their crowns one 
 inch below tlie surface. Tlie soil should be moderately rich, 
 and, for convenience of cultivation, laid into beds four feet 
 ■wide. Make good use of the hoe throughout the summer, and 
 occasionally draw a little earth around the stems. This prac- 
 tice of " earthing," as it is called, is generally followed, although 
 condemned by many eminent authorities. The crop w^ill be 
 matured sometime during the month of August, and is to be 
 harvested like the common onion. 
 
 Potato (Sweet).— ^re SWEET POTATO. 
 PUMPKIN.— Cacurhita pepo. 
 
 We believe that the pumpkin is a native of India. It is one 
 of the nine species of the gourd, or squash, family. The botani* 
 cal term Cncurbita is derived from the resemblance which 
 some of the species bear to certain vessels used by the chemist. 
 This one is readily distinguished by the round shape of it«i 
 fruit, and is sometimes known under the name of Pompion. 
 For families the best varieties are, undoubtedly,— the Cci' 
 .v//aw),—- and the VdlparaiHo. Souk; other kinds attain such an 
 extraordinary size, that they are better suited for taking premi- 
 ums at agricultural shows, than for use in the kitchen. 
 
 Cui.TurvE.— This vine ought not to be cultivated in the 
 garden, V\'herc it Vv^ill occupy much room that might be devoted 
 to more profitable crops, and where it will, moreover, do great 
 injury by hybridizing with the choicest melons and cucum- 
 bers; — unless the gardener have no other ground at his dis- 
 posal. It is generally planted by the farmer, in the hills 
 with Indian corn, and allowed to take care of itself. But, it 
 ie known to be most successful when grown in an open space, 
 
DICTIONARY. 24 J 
 
 like the Melon ; — the ground being properly manured, the 
 seed sown in hills some eight feet apart each way, and the 
 vines protected from the attacks of insects. 
 
 UsE,^The pumpkin has a well-earned reputation. In 
 Europe, it is used in soups, or when boiled hke potatoes, or ti3 
 a kind of baked preserve. In this country, where it is annu- 
 ally raised in immense quantities, it is considered very excel- 
 lent food for cattle, and, in the hands of the skilful housewife, 
 it makes a pie that is inferior to no other. It can be preserved 
 through a great part of the winter, upon a shelf in a cool cellar, 
 where the temperature is uniform and not below the freezing 
 point. "When discovered to be decaying, it may be cut up in 
 strips, and dried near a fire; the dry strips to be stewed, 
 when wanted for making pies. Or, it may be stewed, sweet- 
 ened with, sugar, and seasoned with ginger, and put in a jar to 
 be kept in a cool place; when to be made into pies, the re- 
 quired quantity to be taken out, and put with milk and eggs. 
 
 Pumpkin Pie. — A pumpkin is to be halved, freed from the 
 Beeds, washed clean, and cut into small pieces. These are 
 to be stewed gently until soft, then drained, and strained 
 through a sieve. To one quart of the pulp, add three pintg 
 of cream or milk, six beaten eggs, together with sugar, mace, 
 nutmeg and ginger to the taste. When the ingredients are 
 well mixed, pour them upon pie plates having a bottom crust, 
 nnd bake fur forty minutes in a liot oven. 
 
 QUINCE.— C?/c?a7<m vulgaris. 
 
 "Quinces," ?ay 9 Columella, "yield not only pleasure, but 
 health." The tree derived its botanical name Cydonia, from the 
 city of Cydon, in Crete, where it appears to have fir>t attracted 
 notice. It is, liowever, fouufl growing in a wild state in western 
 Asia, as well as in the southern and eastern parts of Europe. 
 The tree is of hardy habit, about twelve feet high, and of a 
 21 
 
242 GAllDKNirR\S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 spreading, irregular growth. The flowers are very ornamentpJ, 
 ■while nothing can be prettier than the ripe golden fruit in au- 
 tumn. It is largely cultivated for market, and, under skilful 
 management, yields a good profit. It occupies considerable 
 room, and the roots are apt to do injury to such vegetables as 
 may be in the immediate neighborhood ; for which reasons, it 
 is better adapted to the orchard than to the kitchen garden. 
 We sometimes see it in the lawn around a house, where its 
 richly laden branches of flowers or fruit have always a fine 
 effect. The chief varieties are— the Apples Imped, — the Fear- 
 shaped, — and the Portugal ; of which three, the first is most 
 popular, although in flavor it is inferior to the last. 
 
 Culture. — Propagation is effected by seeds, cuttings and 
 la,yers. But, as the character of the seedlings is uncertain, the 
 last two methods are usually preferred. The cuttings are to 
 be taken from young wood in early spring, each beuig twelve 
 inches long, and planted in a moist, shady situati(tn, with about 
 one half its length below the surface. By giving a little 
 water /occasionally in dry weather, and keeping the soil light, 
 the formation of roots will be encouraged, so tho.t the plants 
 will probably be fit for removal in the ensuing autumn. To 
 propagate by layers, the shoots must be bent down into the 
 grouixl, early in spring, and can be separated from the parent 
 stock early in the first or second autumn thereafter, as may be 
 most convenient. 
 
 .The trees should be set about ten feet distant from each 
 other, and in that portion of the garden where they will oc- 
 casion the least injury. An idea seems to have become gene- 
 ral, that currants, gooseberries and quinces, will be satisfied 
 ■with a poor soil, and flourish without any special care or at- 
 tention on the part of the cultivator. By the present method, 
 the quince bushes are almost' wholly neglected, and permitted 
 to attain a rough, scrubby growth, that produces only a small, 
 diseased crop. But, our observation has long sine© satisfied 
 
DICTIOXARY. 243 
 
 US, that no occupant of the garden or orchard can be more im- 
 proved by systematic and thorough cultivation, than the one 
 now under notice. In the first phice, the soil selected for a 
 plantation should be of the very best description — rich, deep 
 and mellow, — be kept in good tilth through the summer, and 
 enriched with a top-dressing of dung or compost in the au- 
 tumn. Instead of having a thick clump of suckers, but three 
 or fom- main stems should be allowed ; while tlie only pruning 
 necessary, is to remove the old wood, and such branches as in- 
 terfere with one another. Under this treatment, the trees 
 will be vigorous in their growth, and the crop will prove all 
 that could be desired. 
 
 Use. — The fruit in its raw state is said to be good for the 
 asthma, spitting of blood, dropsy and some other complaints ; 
 but its principal value is for making preserves, sauces, marma- 
 lades, jelly, wine, etc. It is also used with other khids of 
 fruit, for the sake of the agreeable flavor whicla it communi- 
 cates to them. One pound of sugar mixed with one quart of 
 quince juice makes a very excellent wine, that is thought to 
 have performed many wonderful cures in cases of the asthma. 
 
 To preserve. — Pare the quinces, and cut them in halves or 
 quarter?, — at the same time taking out the cores. To every 
 five pounds of the prepared fruit, add three pounds of sugar 
 and one half pint of water. Put the whole upon the fii-e, 
 where they are to simmer gently for three hours, the cover 
 being kept upon the vessel to prevent the escape of steam, g 
 When the quinces are fully cooked, put them into a stone pot, 
 which is to be kept in a cool, dry place. If the syrup fer- 
 ments, draw it off, and return it while hot. 
 
 Another Receipt. — When the quinces are very ripe, pare 
 and cut them iu slices, or rings, an inch thick. Remove the 
 cores carefully. To eacli pound of fruit, allow one pound of 
 fine white sugar, which is to be dissolved in one half pint of 
 cold water. After the fruit has soaked in this syrup for ten 
 
214 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 or twelve hours, put the wliole into a preserving kettle, and 
 let them boil gently, until a broom splinter will go easily 
 through the pieces, when they may be taken from the fire. 
 In the course of a week, draw off the syrup, and boil it down 
 60 that there will be just enough to cover the quinces. 
 
 Quince Jelly. — Halve and core the fruit, which is to be 
 boiled very soft, and then drained through a flannel bag with- 
 out squeezing. Add to every pint of the liquor, one pound of 
 ■white sugar. Clarify by putting in the whites of eggs. When 
 the liquor becomes clear, boil it over a moderate fire until a 
 thick jelly is formed. Put the jelly in glasses, and cover them 
 tight. The pulp remaining in the bag can be made into 
 
 Quince Marmalade. — Wasli and quarter the quinces, with- 
 out paring them, and stew them over a moderate fire. When 
 they become soft, rub them through a sieve, and add brown 
 sugar at the rate of " pound for pound." Then let the whole 
 stew slowly, being stirred so as to prevent burning to the ket- 
 tle. In about an hour, take out a little upon a spoon, and if it 
 can be cut smooth on becoming cold, it is sufficiently cooked- 
 Keep in jars or glasses. 
 
 RADISH. — Raphanns sativus. 
 
 This valuable plant came originally from China and Persia, 
 but has been cultivated in Europe for time immemorial. It is 
 an annual, having a stem about two feet high, which bears 
 purjjlisli white fiOAvers. Formerly the leaves were boiled and 
 fitewed, and at the present day they are used with salad herbs ; 
 but the plant IS chiefly esteemed for its root, which, containing 
 little besides water, woody fibre, and acrid matter, cannot be 
 very nutritive, although perhaps good as a stimulant. The best 
 varieties for general culture, are — iha Early Short-top Scarlet 
 — the Early Salmon, — the Long Wliite Naples, — the White 
 Spaniah, — the Black Spanish, — together with the Hed, White, 
 and yellow Turiiip-rootcd. 
 
DICTIONARY. 245 
 
 Culture. — Tlie early crops will require artificial heat. We 
 have previously given general directions for the management 
 of flames, and must refer the reader thereto. The best kinds 
 of radish for culture under glass, are the Early Short-top 
 Scarlet, and the Early Salmon. The bed of dung need not be 
 large, because no great degree of Avarmth is ni;cessary. The 
 mold should be rich and light, about ten inches deep. As 
 soon as it becomes warm, sow the seed rather tliickly upon 
 the surface, and cover with an additional half inch of mold. 
 The plants ought to stand about two inches apart, and be 
 freely supplied with air, although protected by mats during 
 cold nights. Water must be occasionally given in moderate 
 quantities. In the want of a regular hot-bed frame, a common 
 box, set upon the dung, to be covered with loose boards when- 
 ever the weather is cool, answers a very good purpose. Should 
 the gardener be so unfortunate as to be without manure 
 which he can spare for a bed, he may hasten tlie maturity of 
 tlie plants in no small degree, by the simple shelter of a close 
 frame or box. Air must be fi-eely admitted in all pleasant 
 days. Early radishes are excellent on the breakfast table, 
 and can be very easily obtained. 
 
 Sowing in the open air may be commenced sometime 
 about tlie middle of March, provided the weather appear 
 sufficiently mild. But, where we can depend upon frame 
 crops, we prefer waiting a few days later. The first sowing 
 should be made in a warm border, well screened upon the 
 north side, and having the full benefit of the sun. The most 
 favorable soil is one that is mellow, dry, and of average fer- 
 tility. Sow either alone in drills eight inches apart, or in the 
 same bed with carrot, spinach, lettuce, or any other vegetable 
 which will come in after the radishes are removed. About 
 one half ounce of seed will be required for a rod of ground ; it 
 should be covered evenly, and to tlie depth of half an inch. 
 Throwing a quantity of litter or refuse straw on the bed, proves 
 an excellent protection against fiost, besides' accelerating ger- 
 2l# 
 
246 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 mination. Continue tliis at night, after the plants have started 
 until all clanger of their sutlering from the cold be past. 
 
 A sowing ought to be made every two weeks until the 
 middle of May, and occasionally afterward until September. 
 For the summer crops, sow seed of the Yellow Turnip-rooted 
 and Long White Naples varieties. The great difficulty in 
 raising radishes during warm weather is, that the roots quickly 
 become tough and bitter, when they are worthless for the 
 table. In order to avoid this, they must be plentifully sup- 
 plied with water, which renders them fleshy, with a mild, 
 agreeable flavor. The winter supply of the Black and White 
 Spanish varieties, shall be planted in the latter part of sum- 
 mer, or in the beginning of autmim, and harvested in Novem- 
 ber, to be packed away in sand. 
 
 "When the seed leaves are well developed, the plants are 
 to be thinned to one inch apart in the drill, and subsequently, 
 to distances of two inches for the spmdle-rooted, and of four 
 or five inches for the turnip-rooted. Care must be taken to 
 prevent their being too much crowded. A regular application 
 of water is at all times of advantage, and particularly during 
 a season of drought. The roots will not be eatable, unless 
 they have a good supply of moisture. It has been recom- 
 mended, to mix with the soil equal quantities of fresh horse- 
 dung, and buckwheat bran, in order to hasten the growth of 
 the roots, so as to get them out of the way of those worms 
 which so greatly injure their appeai"ance and quality. Snuff 
 or air-slacked lime sifted upon the leaves, is a preventive 
 of the depredations of small flies and beetles. 
 
 Lor seed, — leave some of the early spring plants in the bed 
 where grown, or set them out in another bed, at distances of 
 about three feet from each other. Endeavor to keep the varie- 
 ties distnict, and having this object in view, you should not 
 permit two difl'erent kinds to flower in the same neighborhood. 
 Give them a little water after transplanting, and from time to 
 tin:ie afterward, especially when the flowers aru opened. Tho 
 
DICTIONARY. 247 
 
 ripeness of the seed will be indicated by the pods turning 
 brown; it may be threshed out immediately, or hung up with 
 the stalks, until wanted for sowing. 
 
 Use. — Tlie roots of radishes are eaten raw, and, when of 
 good flavor, are highly reli^^hed at the tea or breakfast table. 
 But, tliat they may be thus agreeable to the taste, as well as 
 acceptable to the stomach, they must be young and tender. 
 Physicians always condemn the use of such as are tough and 
 stringy; and, indeed, on other considerations, we do not see 
 how they can find favor witli any person. The small leaves 
 are sometimes put in salads, and the pods, while green and 
 plump, are added to pickles, as a substitute for capers. The 
 juice that may be extracted from the roots, is said to be good 
 for diseases of the chest, sucli as hoai'seness and difficulty of 
 respiration. 
 
 RASPBERRY.— i2i<6ii.s Idceus. 
 
 In its wild, unimproved state, the raspberry is a native ot 
 various temperate climates, to be found gi'owing in thickets, 
 woodland and rough mountainous districts. The species which 
 is commonly cultivated in our gardens, appears to have origi- 
 nated from the Ruhus Idoeus, or Mount Ida bramble. Down- 
 ing says, that the name of raspberry is derived from the Ital- 
 ian word ra-'ipo, probably in allusion to the rasping roughness 
 of the wood. The root is creeping, and of a woody character. 
 Tlie stems are erect, attaining tJie height of three or four feet, 
 and armed with short prickles. Several varieties are known, 
 which differ from one another, in their habits of growth and 
 hardiness, as well as in the quality and quantity of their fruit 
 Among those considered best for general cultivation, are — the 
 i?^f? and White Antwerp!^, — the Colonel Wilder, — the Franco- 
 ma, — the Fastolff, — and tlie Ohio Everbearing. 
 
 The cultivation of the raspberry on an extensive scale for 
 
248 GARDENER'S TEXT -BOOK. 
 
 market, is found to be very profitable, for the crop is generally 
 large, and it always commands good prices, A Mr. Ilallock, 
 of Ulster County in the State of New-York, has a plantatioB 
 covering three fourths of an acre of land, which, in the seasoa 
 of 1848, yielded thirty-three hundred baskets of fruit. He sold 
 them in the City of New-York, at an average price of ten cents 
 per basket, being at the rate of near four hundred and fifty dol- 
 lars per acre. 
 
 Such a retura cannot be expected from anything beside 
 the very best management. An idea that the raspberry will 
 flourish without cultivation, is very prevalent among those 
 ■who consider themselves gardeners. On the contrary, it re- 
 quires a good soil, the occasional application of manure, and 
 regular pi-unii"»g, quite as much as a cherry-tree, or a grape-vine. 
 "VVe frequently hear people complaining that the improved 
 varieties, which they have procured at considerable expense, 
 are but little better than the old-fashioned kinds to be found 
 on the road side. The reason is obvious ; — the bushes are set 
 in perhaps the most unfavorable part of the premises, and tlien 
 allowed to take care of themselves. To expect that they will 
 yield fruit in abundance, and of the best quality, is about as 
 reasonable as it would be to suppose, that a boy left to follow 
 his own headstrong will, and allowed to run wild with all kinds 
 of associates, can become a respected member of society. 
 
 Culture. — The raspberry will grow well upon nearly every 
 soil that is deep and rich, but it prefers a. sandy loam, some- 
 what moist. Some of the most tender varieties, however, suc- 
 ceed best on a dry sjx)t, where they are less liable to injury 
 from frost. But, in no case is a strong, hard or heavy soil to 
 be selected, where the cultivator has the choice of other 
 ground. Tlie situation should be fiee and open, that the bushes 
 may have the full benefit of light and air. 
 
 New varieties are obtained from seed, and may be tested 
 m the second or tliird year. For the propagation of establish- 
 
DICTIONARY. 249 
 
 ed kinds, the most usual mode i'^ by suckers or offsets from the 
 roots. Some of the American varieties may be increased by 
 layers, — that is, by bending a branch into a little hole, where it 
 will take root. Set the canes in bunches of two or three, and 
 in rows about three and a half {eet apart each way, at almost 
 any time when the ground is open between November and* 
 April. They will soon accommodate themselves to their new 
 position, and throw up a growth of young suckers. In new 
 plantations, in order to give the bushes an opportunity to 
 strengthen theniselves, rather than to perfect fruit the first 
 year, it is a good way to cut the suckers down nearly to the 
 ground, and the value of the crop in the following season will be 
 considerably increased. 
 
 The management of a raspberry bush is certainly very sim- 
 ple, and renders the neglect and ill treatment s# common 
 quite inexcusable. During the summer, the ground ought to 
 be kept mellow ; no weeds nor grass being allowed to obtain 
 a foothold. In autumn, the pruning is to be performed ; or it 
 may be delayed until the following spring, if that time be 
 more convenient. The old canes, together with the feeble 
 young wood, a,re to be cut down, leaving about half a dozen of 
 the healthiest young shoots to bear the next crop. These 
 shoots should be shortened some eight or ten inches, and then 
 tied to a stake, in such a manner that the tops will spread out 
 like a wineglass. 
 
 In cold latitudes, winter protection is necessary, and the 
 reserved canes, instead of being tied up, are bent down upon 
 the ground, — a small mound of earth being placed near the 
 root to prevent their breaking, — and covered with earth, straw, 
 or evergreens ; in early spring, the covering is removed, and 
 the stakes are set. "Where a late crop is desired, the canes 
 can be cut down in spring, to cause a new growth which will 
 bear several weeks later than the other bushes. The soil 
 should be thoroughly dug. and enriched with a liberal applica- 
 tion of dung. Salt applied at this time also proves beneficial. 
 
250 GARDENER-S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 and many cultivators are accustomed to spread litter, sea- weed, 
 or salt hay upon the surface, to the depth of four or five inches, 
 particularly in case the land be of a dry nature. Under high 
 culture, the roots will continue in a good state of productive- 
 ness for six, ten, or -fifteen years, each season yielding the 
 owner a generous return for his trouble. 
 
 Use. — Succeeding the strawbeny, the fruit of the rasp- 
 berry is highly prized, not only on account of its value for the 
 dessert, but also for making preserves, jellies, tnrts, etc. Wine, 
 syrup and shrub are made from the juice. The fruit is whole- 
 some, and of agreeable flavor; commending itself by its hand- 
 some appearance, as well as by its delightful fragrance. Rasp- 
 berry syrup is excellent for dissolving the tartar that accumu- 
 lates on te#t-h, and the wine, mixed with water, makes " a good 
 reviving draught in ardent fevers." 
 
 Raspberry Jam. — For each pound of fruit, allow one pound 
 of powdered white sugar, and place a layer of each alternately 
 in a preserving-dish. After they have remained thus for half 
 an hour, put them over a moderate fire, and let them boil 
 slowly, stirring them frequently so as to prevent their being 
 burned. Boil for half an hour, or until the mixture has be- 
 come a thick jelly. This is ascertained by taking up a little 
 in a cup, which is to be set in a dish of cold water. 
 
 Raspberry Shrub. — To three quarts of fresh, ripe fruit, put 
 one quart of vinegar, and let them remain for twenty-four 
 hours : at the end of which time, strain the liquor, and add to 
 each pint one pound of white sugar. Boil the whole together 
 for half an hour, artd skim it clear. When it becomes cool, 
 add to each pint of shrub, a wineglassful of French brandy. 
 Three tablespoonfuls of this shrub, mixed with a tumbler of 
 water, make a very pleasant di'ink, that is wliolesome and re- 
 freshing in fevers. 
 
DICTIONARY. 251 
 
 RHUBARB. — Rheum rhaponticwru 
 
 KnowTi in some sections of the country by the name of 
 Pie-plant. It is a species of the genus Rkeimi, -vrliicli fur- 
 nishes the rhubarb of commerce. Tlie leaves are broad and 
 long, supported by large petioles. The roots, when not dis- 
 turbed for a period of seven years or thereabouts, acquire 
 a value for medicinal purposes ; but tlie plant is cultivated in 
 kitchen gardens for its stalks, "whicli are to be used in tarts 
 and pies. We should be glad to see it more extensively in- 
 troduced, for apart from its value for culinary preparations, it 
 is thought to exercise a peculiarly healtliful influence upon the 
 system. Its production for market is attended with profit, 
 especially when brought forward in the early part of spring, 
 before the season of fruit commences. The rhubarb family 
 belong to the interior of Asia, and this species has been culti- 
 vated in England since the year 1573. The best varieties are, 
 — Buck's Scarlet, — the Tobolsk, — the Giant, — and Myatfs 
 VictGria. Either is worthy of the reader's attention. 
 
 Cui-tuRE. — The most favorable soihis one which possesses the 
 merits of depth, mellowness and fertility. A good succession 
 of leaves cannot be expected from a spot that is either heavy, 
 shallow or poor. And in making a plantation, it will be found 
 of advantage to spade the ground deeply, and, where it is not 
 naturally rich, to dig under a liberal quantity of manure. 
 The situation is best when having a northern exposure, or par- 
 tially shaded from the sun. 
 
 Plants are obtained from seed, or portions of old roots. 
 Where the cultivator is in no hurry for the first crop, or where 
 a large plantation is to be made, he will prefer sowing the 
 seed to purchasing roots. The seed bed should be of light, 
 rich soil, somewhat sheltered from the heat of noonday, adt 
 laid out in drills one foot apart, and near one inch deep. 
 Drop the seed tJiinly. The proper time for doing; this, is about 
 
252 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 the middle of spring, due attention being given to tlie clmrac- 
 ter of the season. In the event of dry weather, the occasional 
 apphcation of water provea of benefit. When the plants are 
 two inches high, thin them to distances of six inches in the 
 drill ; those which are pulled up, can, if the roots are not in- 
 jured, be set out in another bed. 
 
 In autumn, when the leaves have witliered, it will be time 
 to remove the plants to their permanent location. After the 
 ground has been manured and carefully spaded, mark out 
 holes for the reception of the plants, thirty inches apart each 
 way. For all varieties of moderate growth, this distance 
 will be quite sufficient ; but, with some of the giant sorts 
 lately introduced, it may be advisable to allow more room. 
 Bury the roots with their crowns two inches below the sur- 
 face. As soon as cold weather an*ives, cover the bed with 
 about three inches of well rotted dung, to guard against in- 
 jury from frost, and the next spring to be forked into the soil. 
 
 No ci'op is to be expected this season, and so to avoid tl^e 
 charge of keeping unoccupied land, quick-growing plants, 
 such as lettuce and radishes, can be sowed between the rows. 
 Good use of the hoe ought to be made at all times ; and, in 
 severe drought, artificial watering may be necessary. Every 
 autumn, a top-dressing of old dung, or rich compost, should be 
 given, to be mixed with the earth in the spring. Where the 
 gardener does not clioose to Avait two or tliree years for his 
 first crop of leaves, plantations are frequently made with por- 
 tions of old roots. This is always a good plan, if the roots 
 can be readily obtained, either at a fair price, or as a gift from 
 some friend. Each offset should have at least one bud or eye, 
 and be planted in well prepared gi'ound, at the same distances* 
 apart as plants taken from the seed bed. 
 
 It is very common to blanch rhuburb, by placing over each 
 fftool an inverted barrel or box, which in a short period will b-e 
 found almost entirely filled with the stems and leaves. An- 
 other way, is to cover each stcv>l with a bushel of black pea* 
 
DICTIONARY. ^53 
 
 eaitli, late in autumn. "When tlius blanched, they are delicate 
 and of a most excellent flavor, being infiuitely superior to 
 those grown in the open air. To obtain a very early crop is 
 easily done by forcing ; — the barrel or box is placed over the 
 stool in autumn, and in midwinter entirely covered with dung 
 and forest leaves. By reason of the warmth, the growth of 
 the tops is rapid, and, owing to the absence of light, they will 
 be white and sweet. 
 
 Use. — The common garden rhubarb, or pie-plant, is cul- 
 tivated for its stalks, which when young and tender, make aa 
 excellent pie, tart, or sauce to be eaten with bread and butter.. 
 They afe sometimes converted into wine and jelly. They 
 should not be gathered after they appear to hav& attained; 
 full size, because they have then lost a good part of their, fine 
 flavor. It is better to slip them gently off the root, than to 
 make use of the knife. But few gai'deu plants are more 
 worthy of notice, for their useful and wholesome properties. 
 As we have before intimated, the roots, aftei* a certam length 
 of time, may be used for their medicinal virtues, although de- 
 cidedly inferior to the other species. 
 
 Rhubarb Pie. — Take the young stalks, remove the skin, 
 and cut them into tliin slices. Line a deep plate with pie 
 crust, and put in tlie rhubarb, together with layers of sugar. 
 Cover the whole with a tliick crust, pressed down at the edges, 
 and pricked by a fork. Bake for about an hour in a slow 
 oven. Some persons are accustomed to stew the fruit before 
 baking, by which means a greater quantity can be put in the 
 plate. 
 
 Rhubarb Jam. — Boil gently, for three hours, an equal 
 weight of fine sugar and rhubarb stalks. The juice and grated 
 rind of a lemon to each pound of the stalks, will correct their 
 peculiar flavor, which is unpleasant to some persons. 
 
 22 
 
254 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 ROSEMARY.— Ttos/narinws officinalis. 
 
 Rosemary is a liardy shrub, and a native of southern Eu* 
 rope. Its botanical name is composed of two Latin words — 
 ros, dew, and marhius, of the ocean,— in allusion to the 
 beautiful appearance of the plant, when glittering with dew 
 on the sea shore. The stem varies in heiglit from three to 
 six feet ; the leaves are distinguished by being of dark green 
 upon the upper side, and whitish gray beneath ; and the 
 flowers are pale blue. Every part of the plant has a strong 
 odor, and the tender leaves are possessed of a sharp, aromatic 
 taste. One fourth part of the oil is camphor. From an old 
 notion that rosemary has the property of strengthening the 
 memory, it has been made the emblem of remembrance and 
 fidelity ; and this was undoubtedly the origin of a custom in 
 some parts of England and Wales of wearing it at weddings 
 and funerals. It is not much cultivated. 
 
 Culture. — The soil best suited to the wants of rosemary 
 is both poor and light ; in rich ground, the plant grows luxu- 
 riantly, but loses its fragrant properties, and becomes more 
 susceptible of injuny from cold weather. Tlie finest plants 
 are raised from seed, which is sown in early spring, in drills 
 one inch deep, and six inches apart. They are also obtained 
 from cuttings of the young shoots, six inches long, and inserted 
 in mellow ground, at the same season of the year, two thirds 
 of their length — which part has been previously divested of 
 leaves, — ^being below the surface. Give water freely, until the 
 roots have fairly started, and no longer need an artificial sup- 
 ply of moisture. Keep the ground in good tilth. You may 
 remove the plants to their final location, either in autumn, or 
 in the following spring. The work ought to be performed 
 during damp, cloudy weather. Set the plants in rows two 
 ieet apart each way. 
 
DICTIONARY. 255 
 
 Use. — On account of their pungent taste, the leaves are 
 used in Italy for seasoning certain dishes. They yield an es- 
 sential oil, which is the principal ingi-edient of Hungary water ; 
 and tliey also enter into the composition of Eau de Cologne. 
 Rosemary has lost much of its reputation as a medicinal herb ; 
 or, at least, it is rarely employed as such. It is a stimulant, 
 and has been recommended for nervous headache and hys- 
 teria. 
 
 RUR — Ruta graveolens. 
 
 A hardy perennial, known to antiquity, and a native of the 
 south of Europe. It possesses a very strong and disagreeable 
 smell, with a bitter taste. The leaves have the power of 
 blistering the hand that touches them, and the plant has, 
 therefore, been adopted by the poets to express disdain. 
 Shakspeare calls it the " sour herb of grace." 
 
 Culture. — Rue flourishes best on a poor loam, rather 
 approaching the nature of a clay, and rt may, therefore, be 
 located upon the most barren part of the garden. Plants are 
 obtained from cuttings of young wood, set out in early spring, 
 in some shaded situation. Water should be given freely until 
 they are established. The seed may be sown at the same 
 time of year, in rows six inches apart ; the plants, as soon as 
 they crowd one another, being thinned out to distances of 
 five inches therein. In autumn, transplant the cuttings and 
 seedlings to their permanent position. Keep the ground 
 loose, and free from weeds ; dressing it with the rake, both 
 in spring and in autumn ; and removing all dead leaves or 
 branches to the compost heap. 
 
 Use. — The leaves were used by the ancient Romans for 
 culinary purposes, and, it is said tliat, at tlie present day, they 
 enter into the composition of certain dishes in middle Europe. 
 
256 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 Their medicinal virtues seem to have been much exaggerated ; 
 nevertheless, they are ranked among the anti-spasmodics, and 
 considered of great benefit to persons of cold, phlegmatic 
 habits. Mr. Wilson, in his " Economy of the Kitchen Gar- 
 den," says that, the most certain remedy for expelling worms 
 ever brought to his notice, is an infusion of rue leaves in gin, 
 to be taken in the morning on an empty stomach. 
 
 SAGE, — Salvia officinalis. 
 
 Sage is a well known garden perennial, a native of south- 
 em Europe. It has a pleasant, although powerful, smell ; 
 while its taste is sharp and aromatic, somewhat resembling 
 camphor. It was formerly much celebrated for its medical 
 qualities, and, indeed, its botanic name, Salvia, is derived 
 from the Latin salveo — to be in good health. It was once an 
 adage, " Cur moriahir homo cui salvia a'escii in horfo ? " — how 
 can a man die, in whose garden there grows sage ? Time has, 
 however, stripped it of this reputation, and we now cultivate 
 it principally for culinary purposes. Of the several different 
 varieties, those most esteemed by the cook, are — the Green, — 
 and the Red or Pnfple. The Broad-leaved Balsamic is most 
 valuable in a medicinal point of view. 
 
 CJuLTURE. — Select for the bed a dry, mellow soil, with an 
 average character as regards fertility. Exj>erience has shown 
 that, although the plant flourishes Ivixuriantly in a rich or 
 moist situation, it is thereby rendered more susceptible to m- 
 jury from cold weather. The best method of propagation is 
 by seed, but it is frequently accomplished by cuttings or rooted 
 slips. Sow the seed, in the middle of spring, ia drills about 
 six inches apart, and one half inch deep. When the plants 
 are of a suitable height, thin them to distances of six inches in 
 the drill ; and those which are draAvn, can be placed in another 
 bed, if the weather be favorable for transplanting. In autuinu> 
 
DICTIONARY. 257 
 
 or the following spring, they may be removed to their perma- 
 nent location, in case they are not permitted to remain in the 
 seed bed. 
 
 Cuttings of the young shoots are generally set out in July 
 or August. They should be of a strong and healthy growth, 
 about six inches in length, and divested of their lov?er leaves. 
 Put tliem in a shaded border, eiglit inches apart each way, and 
 give tliem occasional sprinklings of water until the roots have 
 taken firm hold. They can be transplanted, either at the end 
 of the season, or in the following spring. Rooted slips are 
 most successful, when plan^^ed in the middle of spring, and 
 in the place where they are to remain. Care should be takea 
 to preserve as many of tiie fibrous roots as possible, and to 
 supply artificial moisture if necessary. 
 
 Keep the ground in good order, — mellow, as well as fi^ee 
 from weeds and dead branches. It Ought to be d'jg over in ear- 
 ly spring, in such a manner as not to injure the crowns of the 
 roots, and every second or third year to receive a small top- 
 dressing of good manure, at the same time. In cutting the 
 tops, avoid taking off too many late in the season, lest the 
 plants have not sufficie«t vigor to withstand the severity of 
 winter. Whenever the main stalk shows a disposition to 
 run to seed, it can be cut down, to encourage the growth of 
 luteral branches. 
 
 For seed, — select fine plants, and water them frequently 
 vrhen in flower. Pull up tlie stalks as soon as the seed be- 
 comes ripe, and after they are well dried, it will be easily 
 threshed. Keep it iu a cool, dry room. 
 
 Use. — We have already noted the change in public opin- 
 ion, as to the value of sage for medical purposes. It is, how- 
 ever, yet allowed to possess some aromatic and astringent 
 powers ; and a decoction, or " sage tea" as it is ctiUed, is found 
 useful in debility of the stomach, and in nervous cases. This 
 decoction is thought highly of by tlie Chinese ; iu £act, they are 
 22* 
 
258 GATIDENKR'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 said to prefer it to their own tea. The leaves are used to a 
 considerable extent in many kitchens, to season stuffings and 
 sauces, as well as to correct the too great lusciousness of strong 
 meats. They are gathered in August and September, when in 
 their greatest perfection, dried before the fire, powdered fine, 
 and kept in tight bottles for winter use, 
 
 SALSIFY — Tragopogon porrifoliiis. 
 
 By many gardeners this truly excellent plant is known 
 as the Vegetable Oyster, — the root, when vt'ell cooked, hav- 
 ing somewhat the flavor of the oyster. It is a biennial, of a 
 hardy constitution, and to be found growing wild in the south- 
 ern part of Europe. The stems are two or thi-ee feet high, 
 bearing beautiful blue flowers, and rising from a long, white, 
 fleshy root, which resembles a small parsnip. It is a valuable 
 addition to every family garden worthy of the name, and par- 
 ticularly to those in the interior of the country, where the oys- 
 ter cannot readily be obtained. 
 
 Culture. — Select a soil which is mellow, deep and fertile, 
 and lay it out into drills, one foot apart, and towards an inch 
 deep. Sow from the middle to the latter part of spring, as the 
 season may be early or late. It will be necessary to drop the 
 seed rather thickly, in order to be certain of a sufficient number 
 of plants. A single ounce will be enough for at least one rod 
 of ground. When the plants have made their appearance, 
 and have attained the height of an inch, they are to be thinned 
 so as to stand six inches apart. The soil should be kept en- 
 tirely free from weeds, and often stu-red by the lioe, for the 
 benefit of atmospheric influences. In dry times, artificial wa- 
 tering is of great advantage ; and some cultivators recommend 
 the addition of half an ounce of gpano to every gallon of water. 
 The root is hardy, and will not suffer injury from severe cold 
 
DICTIONARY. 259 
 
 weather. When a long frost is expected, a supply fur the 
 table should be dug, and packed away in sand. 
 
 For seed, — it is only necessary to suffer some of the most 
 healthy plants to remain m the ground through the winter, and 
 they will yield abundantly in the following season. Or, they 
 can be set out in the spring, after having been kept in the 
 cellar. 
 
 Use. — The tender shoots of the second year's growth, when 
 some four or five inches high, make an excellent substitute for 
 asparagus. The root is palatable and wholesome — being good, 
 it is said; for consumptive patients in particular. It is very 
 inviting when prepared in the following way : — 
 
 Artificial Oysters. — After the root has been scraped, and 
 laid in water for several minutes, in order to abstract a part 
 of its bitter flavor, it is to be boiled tender, and either cut in 
 thin slices, or grated and pressed into little cakes, of the size 
 of oysters. Dip the slices, or cakes, into a batter made of 
 wheat flour, milk, and eggs; roll them in crumbled bread 
 or crackers; and then drojj them into hot lard. When of a 
 light brown color, they are suflSciently cooked, and ready to 
 be carried to the table. 
 
 ^KVO^Y.—Satureja. 
 
 An aromatic herb, the leaves of which have a warm pun- 
 gent taste. The two species cultivated in the kitchen garden, 
 viz.: — the Summer [S. hortensis,) an annual, and tlie Winter, 
 (S. montana,) a perennial, — are believed to be both nativus of 
 Italy. 
 
 Culture. — Both species will grow upon poor soils, and are 
 propagated in early spring by seed sown moderately thick. 
 The Winter Savory is also grown from slips, and it is managed 
 like Sweet Marjoram. For directions as to the culture of the 
 other kind, the reader is referred to Sage. 
 
2t)0 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 Use. — The leaves are gathered in the latter part of July, 
 or tlie beginning of August, and dried for the use of the cook. 
 Their agreeable warmth and flavor are much esteemed in 
 salads. Formerly, they were employed for medicinal pur- 
 poses, and, according to Professor Bradley, they possess the 
 power of " expelling fleas from a bed." 
 
 To pretierve Herbs for Winter use. — They should be 
 gathered on a pleasant day, at that time when they are in 
 their greatest perfection. When freed from dirt, they are to 
 be put in a common Dutch oven, and dried quickly before the 
 fire, without being scorched. They shall then be placed in a 
 mortar, and pounded fine ; passed through a sieve, and put 
 away in closely-corked bottles. They will thus retain their 
 fragrance and flavor much longer, than when kept in paper 
 bags, and exposed to smoke and steam ; besides bemg more 
 convenient for the use of the cook. 
 
 SCORZONERA. — Scorzonera Hispanica. 
 
 Many cultivators prefer this vegetable to the salsify, which 
 it greatly resembles in appearance, habits of growth, and taste 
 of the roots. It is a native of Spain, and has long been culti- 
 vated. It being so similar to the salsify, we do nut choose to 
 recommend it to our readers, except to such as desire to have 
 a great variety in their grounds, rather than a selection of tlie 
 very choicest plants for domestic purposes. 
 
 Culture. — Scorzonera prefers a soil that is mellow, deep, 
 and moderately fertile, in an open situation. Sow during the 
 month of April, or in the first week of May, in diills ten or 
 twelve inches apart, and half an inch deep. The seed is to be 
 dropped thinly, and when the plants are two inches high, they 
 are to be thinned to distances of six or eight inches in the 
 drill. Keep the soil at all times clean and light, and" give 
 regular applications of water in dry weather. The roots are 
 
DICTIONARY. 261 
 
 fit for use when the leaves begin to decay, and may be allowed 
 to remain in the ground all winter, as they will not su(fer from 
 frost, or be preserved in a box of sand in the cellar. 
 
 Use.— The roots are nutritious and palatable ; and are used 
 in soups, boiled like Carkots, or cooked in the same manner 
 as Salsify. In Spain, scorzonera is considered a certain cur» 
 for the bite of a serpent called tlie sciirzo. 
 
 SEA-KALE. — Grambe mantima. 
 
 Kale, as this plant is often called, is a species of sea-cab- 
 bage growing wild upon the sandy coasts of Europe, — particu- 
 larly of England and Ireland. From tune out of mind, its 
 value as a pot herb has been known to the peasantry of those 
 countries where it is found in a natural state, who, upon the 
 appearance of the young shoots, in early spring, cut tliem off 
 several inches below the surface, and boil them as greens. 
 When these stalks are tender, before the leaf has opened, they 
 make an excellent dish for the table. Althougli the merits of 
 the plant were long since understood by the common people, 
 yet it did not acquire much of a reputation for garden culture, 
 until the beginning of the present century. Within a few 
 years, it has been gradually extending itself in public favor, 
 and is now an esteemed inmate of most English gardens ; but 
 in this country, it is by no means as common as it ought to 
 be. Such is its value as a table esculent during a season 
 of many weeks, in addition to a hardy habit, and a ready 
 growth, that we cordially recommend it to the reader's notice. 
 
 Culture. — As regards soil, sea-kale is best suited with a 
 sandy loam, wliicli is moderately rich, two or three feet deep, 
 founded on a dry substratum, and having a free, open exposure. 
 Ilie spot selected for the bed should be brought into this con- 
 dition, before the plantation is made. Sand or coal ashes Will 
 
262 OARDENKll'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 correct tenacity ; and a wet subsoil can be avoided by drain- 
 ing. Decayed leaves are better than hot dung for enriching 
 the ground, and, owing to the marine character of the plant, 
 the application of salt, at the rate of one pound to four square 
 yards, proves very beneficial. Upon starting right, depend 
 the gardener's subsequent satisfaction and profit. 
 
 Propagation is effected by seed and slips of old roots, but 
 the first mode seems to be the one most generally adopted, 
 as the plants are thought to be healthier and longer-lived than 
 those obtained from slips. Lay the piece of ground, after it 
 has been prepared in the manner above directed, into beds 
 five feet wide. Through the middle of each, draw a drill 
 about one inch deep, and another on each side, two feet dis- 
 tant from the first. Sow the seeds in clusters of six or eight, 
 eighteen inches apart in the drills. Water the ground freely 
 during dry weather, and when the plants appear well estab- 
 lished, pull up all except the strongest one in each stool. Little 
 care is needed, other than keeping weeds under, and giving 
 occasional waterings. The beds should have a winter protec- 
 tion of earth, dung, leaves or sea-weed, three or four inches in 
 depth; which is to be removed on the approach of warm 
 weather, or, if well rotted, to be then forked into the ground. 
 
 The only attention required on the part of the gardener, 
 during tbe second summer, is to keep the ground in good 
 order — light, clean, and moist in continued dry weather. Oc- 
 casional applications of brine are found to be advantageous. 
 By autumn, the plants will have attained a suitable size for 
 bearing tlie first crop. To obtain shoots during the winter 
 months, recourse must be had to 
 
 Forcing. — The roots can be put in the forcing-pit, or in a 
 hot-bed frame, — the glass being covered, so as to exclude 
 light, and the ground frequently sprinkled with water. Or, 
 they may be allowed to remain in the bed, covered with some 
 fermenting substances to induce artificial heat. This is un- 
 doubtedly the best plan. In the latter part of October, or in 
 
DICTIONARY. 263 
 
 the beginning of the following month, the dead leaves and 
 branches should be removed, and a little dung worked into 
 the soil around the stools. Then, light earth or sarjd must be 
 spread over the whole surface, to the depth of about three 
 inches, and each stool covered by a small box, or a large-sized 
 flower pot, the edges of which are pressed down into the 
 sand, to prevent the entrance of steam from the dung which 
 is to be placed around them. 
 
 The pots are now to be covered with a compost of forest 
 leaves and fresh dung, whicli were mixed in equal quantities 
 some two or three weeks previous, in order that a regulai' heat 
 might be obtained. This compost is either to be spread evenly 
 over the bed to the depth of twenty-four inches, or put around 
 each pot to the thickness of eight or ten inches. The tem- 
 perature ought not to fall below 50°, and in extreme cold 
 days, a covering of litter may be required, or perhaps the ad- 
 dition of warm dung. When the heat is much above 60°, 
 some of the covering should be removed. In four or five 
 weeks, the pots can be examined, and the shoots will be found 
 fit for use, when three inches high. In cutting, the dirt is 
 scraped away from the sprout, which is then taken off close 
 to the crown, with care not to mjure the young buds. Tlie bed 
 will continue productive for about two months, when the 
 covering should be gradually reduced, that the plants may 
 not suffer from sudden exposure to the cold, after having been 
 so long a time confined in a hot atmosphere. In spring, 
 the surface is to be cleared, properly levelled, and enriched 
 by a little of the rotten compost, so that the roots can have a 
 healthy, natural growth durmg the summer. A top-dressing 
 of salt, at the same time, prores as beneficial as upon the 
 asparagus. 
 
 It has been noticed that, unlike the generality of vegeta- 
 bles, the shoots of sea-kale obtained by artificial heat, are al- 
 ways more crisp and delicate than those produced in the 
 natural way, later in the season. 
 
264 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 The open-air crop — is easily managed. Some persona re- 
 commend covering the whole surface with layers of straw or 
 loaves, or by inverting flower pots and boxes over the stools. 
 Others are accustomed to spread upon the bed, early in spring, 
 after the removal of the winter covering, ten or twelve inches 
 of sand, through which the tender stalks will speedily show 
 themselves, well blanched and pleasant to the taste. When 
 the roots stop bearing, the sand is to be taken away, and a 
 little rich compost dug in around them, that they may strength- 
 en themselves for the next crop. A much better mode than 
 either of the foregoing, is to spread over the whole bed, in 
 autumn, a layer of black peat earth to the depth of fourteen 
 or fifteen inches. This keeps the frost from penetrating to 
 any considerable depth, and by its dark color attracts the 
 sun's rays, so that tlie roots are excited into an earlier growth 
 in the coming spring. When the season of cutting is over, the 
 peat is to be removed to the compost heap, or to another part 
 of the grounds. 
 
 By a little management, the gardener can have sea-kale 
 through a good part of the winter and spring months, thus 
 furnishing his table with an excellent dish, at a small expense. 
 The same bed will continue productive for near a dozen years ; 
 and to avoid weakening the roots, it may be advisable to have 
 two plantations, which are forced alternately. In this way, 
 the season of the vegetable will be prolonged, and, every 
 other sj^ring, tliose roots which sutTered from being forced the 
 year previous, have an opportunity to regain their strength 
 and vigor. Unless seed be wanted, no plant should be al- 
 lowed to throw up its flower-stalks. 
 
 For seed, — the plant must be permitted to grow without 
 being blanched or deprived of its young shoots. 
 
 Use. — Physicians and others speak highly of the sea-kale 
 as an esculent. Dr. Curtiss remarks that, used with rhubarb, 
 ** it may save many pounds for medical attendance, and people 
 
 A 
 
DICTIONARY". 263 
 
 may soon say, ' I grow my own medicine.' " Another au- 
 thority hus declared it to be " one of the most valuable acqui- 
 sitions made to culinary vegetables within the last fifty years." 
 The young shoots and stalks of the unfolded leaves, when 
 blanched and tender, are boiled and dressed like asparagus. 
 They also form an excellent ingredient in soups. 
 
 To cook Sea-kale. — Soak the stalks in water for thirty 
 minutes, and tie them up in small bundles. Boil them very 
 tender, over a brisk fire, with a little salt in the pot ; drain olf 
 the water, and lay them on a slice of toast which has been 
 moistened in the liquor. Dress with melted butter, pepper 
 and salt. 
 
 SHALLOT.— ^^Z^m/n Ascalonicum. 
 
 This member of the Allium tribe was originally found 
 growing wild near Ascalon, in Palestine, whence has been 
 derived its botanical name. It is supposed to have been in- 
 troduced into England by the returned Crusaders, and is now 
 known under the several appellations of Shallot, Escalot and 
 Eschalot. The root is bulbous, resembhng the garlic, in being 
 divided into cloves enclosed in a single membrane. From the 
 circumstance of its rarely sending up a flower-stalk, it received 
 from ancient authors the name of Barren-onion. 
 
 Culture.— The shallot is best suited with a hght loam, of 
 rather a sandy character, fertile, and free from excessive moist- 
 m-e, besides being in a free, open situation. Rank manure is 
 apt to produce maggots, which vrill oftentimes do the crop 
 great injury ; and we, therefore, advise the use of compost, 
 soot or bird's'dung, when the ground is not already sufficiently 
 rich. 
 
 Propagation is effected by offsets of the roots. Where the 
 bed is dry, the offsets are best planted in the autumn ; but, 
 otherwise, the labor should be deferred until the first part of 
 23 
 
2(56 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 the follo^ving spring. Put them in rows, eight inches apart each 
 way. When phxnted in autumn, they are to be set about 
 three inches deep, but they must be uncovered in May, so 
 that they may bulb well, and be less likely to suffer from the 
 canker. When planted in spring, they shall be placed almost . 
 on the surface. The soil ought to be kept light, and free from 
 •weeds. As soon as the tops turn yellow, say in July or Au- 
 gust, the roots must be taken up, and gradually dried in a 
 place shaded from the noonday sun, by which means they 
 may be preserved throughout the winter without difficulty. 
 
 For seed^ — the offsets must be kept in a dry, airy place 
 until spring, when they are to be put in the open ground. 
 
 Use. — Although the shallot has a more pungent taste than 
 some other members of the same family, yet it is rather more 
 agreeable, and is often preferred to the common onion for use 
 in pickling, seasoning soups, gravies, hashes and various other 
 dishes. It is with some a favorite accompaniment to beef- 
 steak. 
 
 Shallot Sauce. — Put a few shallots in some clear gravy, 
 together with half the quantity of good vinegar ; season with 
 salt and pepper, and then boil for half an hour. 
 
 SKIRRET. — Sium sisarum, 
 
 Skirret is a perennial, and a native of China, which lias 
 been cultivated in England for upwards of three centuries. 
 It was much esteemed by the ancient Romans. The stem 
 rises about a foot high, and is crowned by an umbel of white 
 flowers. The root is composed of several long, fiesliy tubers, 
 each one as large as the little finger, and joined together at 
 the top. These, in times back, were thought highly of for th'e 
 kitchen. A distinguished English horticulturist by the name 
 of Worlidge, in the year 1682, speaks of them as " thesweet* 
 est, whitest, and most pleasant of roots." 
 
DICTIONARY. 3(57 
 
 Culture. — New plants are obtained from seed and off- 
 sets of old roots, but the first method is decidedly the best. 
 Tlie soil should be light, of a moderate degree of richness, and 
 someAvhat moist ; whenever it is to be manured, the dung 
 ought to be dug in with the lower spit. In dry ground, the 
 crop will probably be small, unless the season should prove 
 wet. 
 
 Sow in the latter part of March, or any time during April, 
 according to circumstances, in drills ten or twelve inches apart, 
 and near one inch deep. As sooil as the seedlings are two 
 inches high, they must be thinned out to distances of six or 
 eight inches in the drill. No opportunity should be given 
 the weeds to establish themselves, to the injury of the young 
 plants. When the leaves decay in autumn, the roots are fit 
 for use, and will be good until they begin to sprout in the fol- 
 lowing spring. They are to be stored in the cellar, in a box 
 of diy earth or sand. 
 
 For seed, — it is only necessary to permit some of the plants 
 to tlu'ow up their flower-stalks, in the second season. 
 
 Use. — The tubers abound in saccharine particles, having 
 somewhat the flavor of a parsnip. By some persons, they 
 are considered much more palatable than that root. They are 
 prepared for the table in various av ays ; — stewed ; boiled, and 
 served with butter ; boiled, rolled in flour, and fried ; or boiled 
 to be eaten cold with vinegar and oil. They possess diuretic 
 qualities, and are in a slight degree stimulant. 
 
 SORREL. — Rumex acefosa. 
 
 A perennial weed, which is found growing naturally in 
 poor, barren soils. It has a long root, with a stem one or tAvo 
 feet high. The leaves are oblong and arrow-shaped ; they are 
 remarkable for their acidity. The French sorrel, so highly 
 valued in cookerv, seems to be of a different character, — being 
 
268 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 round-leaved, and having a much pleasantor flavor. Only a 
 few plants will be required by a single family. 
 
 Culture. — The most favorable soil is light and rather 
 moist, in an open situation. Propagation is effected by sowing 
 seed, or dividing old roots. Both methods can be practiced in 
 spring, and the latter also in autumn. Sow in diills ten inches 
 apart, and one half inch deep. The seedlings are subsequently 
 to be thinned out to ten inches in the row ; and, in making a 
 plantation of old roots theyare to be set at similar distances. 
 An occasional watering may be necessary in dry weather, — 
 particularly when the plants have not become well established. 
 Keep the ground free from weeds, give it a slight dressing of 
 manure in the spring, and, at the approach of frost, put on a 
 little manure, or a covering of leaves. In summer, when the 
 stalks show a disposition to run up to seed, they should be cut 
 down, to encourage a new growth of herbage ; they ought also 
 to be cut down late in autumn. 
 
 For seed, — allow some of the seed-stalks to perfect them- 
 selves, and they will yield abundantly. 
 
 Use. — The acid juice of sorrel is often recommended for 
 refreshing drinks in febrile complaints, but, as it is well known 
 that it contains oxalic acid, a deadly poison, some degree of 
 caution should be exercised in its use. It is valuable for 
 taking spots of ink or iron-mould from linen. The leaves are 
 by many highly esteemed in soups, sauces, salads, or when 
 boiled plain like spinach. 
 
 SPINACH. — Spinacia oleracea. 
 
 A very hardy annual, which has for a long time been a 
 favorite in the kitchen garden. Its name is derived from the 
 Latin word spina, a thorn, in allusion to the prickly character 
 of the seed. Its native country cannot now be determined, 
 
DICTIONARY. gg'g 
 
 but it is by different individuals attributed to both Spain and 
 Persia. In the monasteries on the continent of f]urope, it was 
 in use as early as tlie year 1351, five centuries ago. The 
 stem is smooth, and about two feet high ; tlie leaves are oi 
 various sizes and shapes, according to the varieties ; while the 
 male and female flowers are produced on separate plants, — 
 the former growing in long, terminal spikes, and the latter in 
 clusters about the stalk. The principal varieties are by no 
 means numerous, viz. : — the Houwi-leaved, or Round-seeded, for 
 tlie spring sowings ; — and the Prickly-seeded for the winter 
 and spring crops. The New Zealand Spinach has been 
 spoken of on page 213. 
 
 Culture. — "With all spinaceous plants, or those which are 
 cultivated for their succulent leaves, the principal point of 
 good management consists in providing a fertile soil, and 
 keeping it in excellent tilth throughout the growing season. 
 Spinach is called " a gross feeder," and can scarce ever be 
 placed in ground that is too rich, — for the quality of its leaves 
 depends mainly upon the rapidity of* their growth. Tlie roots 
 must be well supplied with food, or a good crop cannot be ex- 
 pected. In summer, moisture in the soil is desirable, as the 
 roots suffer much friun drought, while the situation sliould be 
 open ; but, with the autumn sowings that are to be protected 
 through the Avinter, for obvious reasons, a dry, warm, and 
 rather sheltered bt)ider is to be preferred. 
 
 For the winter and spring crops, the seed is to be sown, 
 first about the middle of August, and again near the middle 
 of September. The beds ought to be protected through all 
 inclement weather by thin coverings of sti'aw, leaves, cedar- 
 brush, mats, or something which will not press too lieavily 
 upon the plants. By judiciously removing the cover in pleas- 
 ant days, and carefully guarding against extreme cold, the 
 gardener will be able to have a good supply of leaves from 
 tlie first sowing through the whole winter. 
 23^ 
 
270 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 The Round-lcavcd variety can be sown as early in the 
 spring, as the ground is in good order. The sowing may be 
 repeated every fortnight or three weeks until the last of May. 
 When continued longer than the time mentioned, the plants 
 will be affe'cted by the hot weather of June, and tlie following 
 months, which causes them to run quickly to seed, without 
 having a good growth of leaves. For the sowings even in the 
 latter part of spring, it will be well to allot ground between 
 the drills of peas and pole beans, for the benefit of the shadfl 
 afforded by the tall vines. 
 
 After the ground has been properly dng and enriched, it 
 is to be laid out into beds four feet Avide. Spinach is often 
 sown broadcast, but, while we see no advantage in this prac- 
 tice, we find much to condemn. When put in drills, the gene- 
 ral appearance of the garden is improved, and the labor of 
 subsequent cultivation is considerably diminished. We recom- 
 mend having the drills ten inches apart, and one third of an 
 inch deep. One ounce of seed is sufficient for one hundred, or 
 one hundred and twenty-five, feet of drill. It should be 
 dropped thin, and covered evenly. When the ground is dry, 
 it ought to be rolled, or pressed by a person's walking upon a 
 long board, or gently beaten by the spade. 
 
 The young plants will present themselves above the sur- 
 face in the course of ten days. As soon as they appear to be 
 w^ell established they should be hoed and thinned out to dis- 
 tances of three or four inches in the row. When they are so 
 much grown as to be in danger of crowding one another, every 
 other one can be drawn for boiling, by which means the others 
 will have a fair chance to mature. A very little experience 
 will satisfy the cultivator, that spinach does not flourish when 
 confined in close quarters. Unless plenty of room be given, 
 the stalks will be tall and spindling, and the leaves small. It 
 is ever necessary that the soil be kept light and permeable 
 to atmospheric influences. In hoeing, care ought to be taken 
 not to choke the heart of tLe plant by covering it with eai'th. 
 
DICTIONARy. 271 
 
 In dry weather, great benefit will be derived from the regular 
 application of water at evening. Where there is a deficiency 
 of moisture, the whole top of the plant is ever found dry and 
 hard, instead of large and succulent. The principles of man- 
 agement appear to be simply : — having a rich soil, in an open 
 situation ; giving the plants sufficient room ; preventing the 
 growth of weeds ; keeping the ground light ; and supplying 
 moisture during dry Aveather. 
 
 For seed, — let tlie flower-stalks grow up without molest- 
 ation. It will not be wise to pull up the male-flowering 
 plants, lest the others prove unfruitful. When tlie number 
 of the first is too large, a portion can be immediately re- 
 moved ; and the whole can be taken, as soon as the female 
 blossoms are set. Put the seed-stalks, when gathered, upon a 
 cloth, and let them become perfectly dry, before you attempt 
 threshing them. 
 
 Use. — The leaves, when green and tender, are put in 
 soups, and boiled as greens. Physicians do not agree in regard 
 to the effects of spinach upon the system. The Frenph esteem 
 it " not only food but physic," terming it figuratively " the 
 broom of the stomach," as sweeping that organ of many ill 
 affections and disorders ; and, we bejieve, that it is generally 
 considered innocent, although devoid of nutriment, and may be 
 eaten when other vegetables are not allowed by the medical 
 attendiuit. It certainly is a familiar dish at table, and with 
 most families is thought indispensable in its seasoa 
 
 To boil Greena. — Under the general name of " greens" is 
 comprised the succulent leaves of several vegetables, such as 
 spinach, beet, mustard, etc. They should be washed very 
 clean, and, if not freshly gathered, ought to be soaked in salt 
 and water for thirty minutes before being put in the pot. Boil 
 in a little water, with salt and salaratus added, to preserve 
 their color. Take off the scum as it rises. Wlien sufficiently 
 cooked, they are to be drained, and seasoned with butter and 
 
272 GARDEA'ER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 jDepper. A hard-boiled egg, cut in slices, and laid on the top 
 of the dish, much improves its appearance. 
 
 SQUASH. — Citcurhita melopepo. 
 
 This well known and highly esteemed vegetable is a mem- 
 ber of the Cucurhlta, or Gourd, family, some species of which 
 are very beautiful and are cultivated for ornament, while 
 otliers are considered curiosities, on account of their immense 
 size, and others are used for culinary purposes. The squash 
 has been thought the link which connects the melon and the 
 pumpkin. It is so much of a favorite in this country, that it is 
 generally raised in the kitchen garden ; but, on account of the 
 large space it occupies, as well as of its liability to intermix- 
 ture with other vines, we advise that it be kept without the 
 gai'den limits, whenever the cultivator has other ground at his 
 disposal. The best varieties are — the Earhj Orange, — the 
 Early Basil, — the Large Green Striped, — and the Autumn 
 Marroio. Tlie Valparaiso, which sometimes attains the weight 
 of near one hundred pounds, is a very excellent kind, and 
 should be brought into general use. 
 
 Culture. — As the squash is quite sensitive to cold, and 
 will not start well in spring, until the weather becomes fine, it is 
 not advisable to plant the seed before the first week of May. 
 It will huurisli on any good soil, and requires much less care 
 than the cucumber or melon. The ground should be marked 
 out for hills, at distances of six to ten feet apart each way, ac- 
 cording to the variety cultivated. In making the hills, a hole 
 is to be dug for each to the depth of a few inches, filled with 
 compost or rotten dung, and covered with three or four inches 
 of loam, upon which lialf a dozen seeds are to be planted. At 
 this rate, one ounce of seed will plant from sixty to eighty 
 or a hundred iiills. Keep the surface liglit and clean at all 
 times, and draw a little soil around the stems for their support. 
 
DICTIONARl . 273 
 
 Tliree vines are quite enough for a single hill, and their lead- 
 ing shoots may be stopped, so as to induce tlie speedy forma- 
 tion of fruitful laterals. For advice in regard to the attacks of 
 insects, we refer the reader to our article on the " Destruction 
 OF Vermin." The squashes are fit for use, when as large as a 
 cocoa-nut, and contiime in season until the rind becomes hard. 
 
 Use. — No American needs to be told the value of the squash 
 as an addition to the dinner table. Much of its excellence, how- 
 ever, depends upon the manner in which it may be cooked, for 
 some persons will send it from the kitchen so hard, or so 
 full of water, that it is scarcely fit to be eaten. Many 
 housewives are accustomed to prepare it in the shape of 
 pies, after the same receipt as given for the Pumpkin. 
 
 To boil. — If very young and tender, it may be boiled 
 whole ; but, otherwise, should first be freed from its seeds, 
 pared, and cut into strips. When quite soft, it is to be 
 mashed, drained, and then seasoned with cream or butter, 
 pepper and salt. 
 
 STRAWBERRY.— i?Va^aHa. 
 
 Tliis fruit has been aptly termed " the most delicious and the 
 most wholesome of all berries." It is a native of the cold and 
 tempera+e regions of both hemispheres, and is very exten- 
 sively diffused, particularly in Europe and America. The 
 root throws out many slender, creeping shoots, which fasten 
 themselves to the ground at intervals, and form so many new 
 stalks. The leaves are each composed of three leaflets, sup- 
 ported on a long footstalk. After the season of flowering, the 
 eeedreccptacle increases, acquires a pulpy and succulent con- 
 sistence, and finally a red color when it has attained maturity. 
 Tlie name is said to have arisen from the ancient practice of 
 putting straw around the plants, for the purpose of keeping 
 the berry free from dust and sand. The botanical appellation 
 
274 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 is derived from fragrans, in allusion to the delightful fragrance 
 of the well ripened fruit. 
 
 It is not many years since it has been brought into general 
 cultivation, and the course of treatment pursued in early 
 times was about as imperfect, as the number of varieties was 
 limited. The poet Tusser, who wrote in 1557, says that the 
 best plants were to be found " growing abroad, among thorns 
 in the wood," and turns them over to the female members of a 
 family, as though unwoi-thy the attention of the men. Modern 
 skill and care, however, have brouglit the strawberry into high 
 repute. It now occupies a conspicuous position in most private 
 gardens, while in some sections of the country it is extensively 
 cultivated for market. One grower, in 184.6, picked one hun- 
 dred and twenty-eight bushels daily at the height of the sea- 
 son. Under proper management, it can be made very profit- 
 able : instances are recorded of crops being at the rate of from 
 81000 to '11600 per acre ; but the fair average product is prob- 
 ably not far from $350, which is certa-nly a good return upon 
 the investment. In f;ict, it is so productive and easy of culti- 
 vation, that it is really a matter of wonder why so many fam- 
 ilies are willing to be without it. 
 
 In its wild or natural state, the plant produces " perfect " 
 flowers, or such as contain both stamens and pistils — the male 
 and female organs. When brought under high culture, many 
 varieties lose this character, and the flowers become what is 
 called " imperfect," — that is, either the stamens, or the pistils, 
 as the case may be, are imperfectly developed. Wliere the 
 stamens are wanting, or so small and imperfect as to be inca- 
 pable of fertilizing the pistils, the plant is termed " pistillate, 
 or female." Wh(;re the pistils are defective, the plant is then 
 known as a " staminate, or male," variety. As a natural re- 
 sult of this change, the berry either does not set, or else it is 
 of small size and little value. Gardeners, therefore, are accus- 
 tomed to associate the two classes of plants, in order to secure 
 a crop. In Fig. 25 the staminate flower is indicated by the 
 
•DTCTTONARY. 
 
 275 
 
 letter a, and the pistillate flo-vrer by the letter h, .ind Ihe per* 
 feet flower, in whicli both stamens and pistils are developed, 
 by the letter c. In Fig. 26 are represented portions of the first 
 two, as they appear in a microscope ; the stamens being 
 marked a, and the pistils, h. The greatest bearers being pis- 
 tillates, they are usually selected for the beds, a smaller num- 
 ber of the less productive staminates being placed in the 
 neighborhood to secure fertilization. 
 
 Fi<!. 26. 
 
 The varieties have become very numerous, and within a 
 Bhort period many have been introduced to the public, that 
 are of peculiar excellence. Nevertheless, it is well understood 
 that most of tlie " seedlings " brought forward from time to 
 time, with high-sounding names and finely-di-awn descriptiona 
 
276 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 of their goorl qualities, are of little or no value. Aided by 
 tlie publit^hc'd experience of others, we venture to present the 
 following; select list of the choicest kinds, — the class to which 
 each belongs being designated, by the letter 8 for staminates, 
 and by the letter p for pistillates. Wo enumerate — the Large 
 Early Scarlet (s), — -the Boston Pine (s), — Hovcys Seedling (p), 
 -^Burrs New Pine (p), — and the Dundee (p). As with all 
 fruits, these varieties differ in quality according to climate, 
 season, soil, exposure, etc. 
 
 Culture. — Four things appear to be essential to success in 
 the cultivation of the strawberry, viz. : a good selection of va* 
 rieties, — a favorable situation, — careful culture, — and a re- 
 newal of the bed once in every three or four years. The 
 labor, apart from the formation of the bed, is but trifling, and 
 is, indeed, often over-estimated ; while the necessary annual 
 outlay, is of small account in a garden of common dimensions. 
 A moderate ci'op yields a rich reward for the expense incurred. 
 When we see our own vines literally covered with fruit, 
 tempting to the eye, and pleasant to the taste, we cannot but 
 inquire how it happens, that a farmer, or a gardener, or any 
 person in the country Imving a rod of spare ground, can be 
 without a plantation of strawberries. 
 
 The situation of the bed ought always to be open, away 
 from close fences, trees and builcHngs, so tliat tlie plants may 
 not suffer from the want of liglit and air. To liave a succes- 
 sion of crops, one bed may lie towards the soutli, and a second 
 have an inclination to the north. Where the soil is not nat- 
 urally of a suitable character, it should be brought into that 
 condition before the plants are set out. A good loam, light 
 rather tlian heavy, deep, rich, and sonnnvhat moist, is un- 
 doubtedly to be prefen-ed. It needs to be friable so as to be 
 easily wor'ked, and yet not so light as to suffer from drought. 
 It would seem that a slight degree of moisture is indispensable 
 to the fiill perfection of the fruit. Moreover, the soil should 
 
DICTIONARY. 277 
 
 be botli deep atid rich, that the roots may have plenty of room 
 in which to extend themselves, together with a good supply of 
 food suited to their wants. To prepare the ground for a 
 })lantHtion in the best manner, we would recommend trench- 
 ing and manuring it several months previously, taking care 
 that the manure shall be well incorporated. Instead of using 
 common stable dung alone, we should rather apply it in con- 
 nection with leaves, decayed wood, ashes, plaster, salt, or 
 bone-dust. It sometimes happens that too large a supply of 
 dung, causes a rank growth of vines, without a corresponding 
 return of berries. 
 
 After the ground has been properly dug, — all the lumps 
 being pulverized, and the surface raked smooth, — rows are to 
 be struck out at distances of two, or two and a half, feet from 
 each other. In our own garden, we should be willing to allow 
 even more room, being under the impression that there is such 
 a tiling as crowding the plants, and thereby injuring their 
 productive powers. The months of April and May, or August 
 and September, are the proper seasons of the year for making 
 new plantations. The first season is undoubtedly the best, 
 because the newly-transplanted vines then lequire less atten- 
 tion than they would in the heat (^f summer, and the first fair 
 crop will be a twelvemonth earlier. 
 
 The best plants are the young, healthy-looking runners 
 fiom old stocks. They are to be set out at distances of twelve 
 or eighteen inches in the rows, A hole is made by means of 
 a small dibble, and before the root is inserted, it should be 
 dipped in mud, a semi-fluid mass of dung and \^-ater, or even 
 simyjle water, in order that the freshly-stirred earth may ad« 
 here to the fibres. We have already noticed the necessity of 
 ])ntting staminatc plants in the immediate vicinity of the pis- 
 tillatcs. Still, to prevent the first named from usurping the 
 place tif the latter, as by reason of their greater luxuriance 
 they would be apt to do, the two classes must be ke|)t dis- 
 tinct, and only near enough together to secure fertilizatiou. 
 '24 
 
278 gardenp:rs text-book. 
 
 Tlius, every fifth or sixth row may be of staminates exclusivelyy 
 and by keeping their runners confined ■within proper bounds, 
 there will be no chance of their crowding out the more val- 
 uable pistillates. Perhaps, our idea will be better understood 
 by the following diagram, in which the classes of the plants 
 are designated by the letters s and p. 
 
 SPPPPS3PPPP8 
 SPPPPSPPPPS 
 SPPPPSPPPPS 
 
 Every root ought to be set firmly, and when the opera- 
 tion is not followed by a shower, the ground ought to be well 
 watered. If the season be autumn, the new beds require not 
 a little attention, and the liberal application of water will be 
 frequently necessary, until the roots become established. 
 Wlienever practicable, transplanting ought to be performed in 
 dull, damp weather. 
 
 It will ftot be long before runners show themselves, and 
 insteacUof being allowed to roam over the bed at will, they 
 must be trained along the rows so as to form parallel lines of 
 plants, with good, wide paths between them. Tliis system of 
 cult^ure is preferable to every other for many reasons, and 
 principally on account of its being more convenient of access 
 for weeding and gathering the fruit, Ligiit and air are freely 
 admitted to the leaves, while the roots iiave a large foraging 
 ground beneath the unoccupied paths. The hoe must be 
 often used, as well to keep the surfiice light and porous, as to 
 eradicate the young weeds before they have taken possession^ 
 A full grown weed in a strawberry bed, speaks but little in 
 praise of the owner's industry, or skill in gai-dening. In severe 
 hot weather, the plants ought to be examined every day, to 
 ascertain whether they be suffering from the want of moisture. 
 This is particularly necessary where the situation is dry and 
 ia a warm exposure. But, in most cases, frequent stirring of 
 
DICTIONARY. 279 
 
 tlie soil will attract sufficient moisture from the atmosphere. 
 IMulching, or covering the surface with straw or leaves, is to 
 be recommended, as checking evaporation, and preventing 
 the parching effects of drought. 
 
 In the beginning of winter, a covering of leaves, straw or 
 any light litter should be given, to prevent injury from frost. 
 "When the land is not quite rich enough, this is a good time to 
 dig a little compost into the paths, to keep the roots warm 
 tlu'ough the winter, and cause them to start thi"iftily in the 
 spring. 
 
 As soon as the weather becomes settled in March or April, 
 tlie covering is to be removed, and the ground ought to be 
 frequently stirred, until the flowers open. At this time, clean 
 straw, sea-weed, or coarse hay, can be spread around the plants, 
 for the purpose of protecting the berries from sand ; this also 
 is useful in keeping the soil moist, and, when decayed, it forms 
 an excellent manure. After the blossoms fall, the growing 
 berries ought to be occasionally watered, in case the season 
 prove dry. Throughout the summer and autumn, the runners 
 are to be confined to the rows from which they start, unless 
 new plants are wanted, when they may be permitted to root 
 themselves in the paths. No room should be allowed a weed 
 or a blade of grass. The same course of management is to be 
 pm-sued annually thereafter. 
 
 A strawberry bed cannot be expected to remain in perfec- 
 tion longer than four years, and to ensure a regular supply of 
 fruit, it is advisable to make a new plantation in every second 
 year. There is, however, a plan of renewing the bed at the 
 end of .eacli season, which is simple, and answers a good pur- 
 pose. Wae rows are about three feet apart, that the paths 
 may be as wide as the spaces occupied by the plants. After 
 the crop.'tias been gathered, the runners are allowed to strike 
 themselves into IB paths, which have been previously enriched 
 by niaiuue Avhen not sufficiently fertile. With a little care, 
 they will cover the ground very regularly. In the latter part 
 
280 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 of summer, the old plants are to be spaded under, and the 
 spaces which they occupied are now to be used as paths. At 
 the close of the next season, the process is to be repeated, and 
 so henceforth until tlie land has become tired of the berry, 
 wlien the plantation may be removed to another part of the 
 garden. It will be observed that the strips of land are every 
 other season at rest, while their principal production, the old 
 vines, are dug under for the benefit of the roots. 
 
 Use.— No reader needs to be told in what universal favor 
 this luscious and wholesome fruit is held. It consists almost 
 entirely of matter soluble in the stomach, and never grows acid 
 by fermentation. Hence, it is found very nourishing, and may 
 not only be eaten witli safety by invalids, but is furthermore 
 known to exercise a healthful influence in many cases ot 
 disease. The great Linnaeus was cured of the gout by par- 
 taking freely of strawberries. In fact, they disagree with but 
 few constitutions. The flavor is equalled by the delightful 
 perfume which they exhale. Even the muse has sung of 
 
 " A dish of ripe strawberries, smothered in cream." 
 
 Eaten alone, or with sugar and cream, they are highly prized 
 for the dessert ; and tliey are invaluable for pies, tarts, ices, 
 jams, and })reserves. The juice, which has rather a subacid 
 taste, is made into a cool, refreshing drink, known as bavaroise 
 a la grecqne, as well as into a very pleasant wine. 
 
 Strawberry Preserve. — The berries, after being hulled, are 
 put in a large dish, in layers with an equal weight of fine 
 white sugar, — a layer of fruit being at the bottom of the dish. 
 At the end of an hour, pour in a gill of cold water. ..Set the 
 whole upon a moderate fire, which is to be increased from the 
 time the juice runs freely imtil the syiu^boils quite brisk. 
 Let it boil for half an hour, then turn th^^eetmeata into a 
 dish, and before they are cold, put them into buttles, which 
 are to be sealed tight and kept in dry sand. 
 
DlCTlOXARf. 281 
 
 Strawberry Jelly. — Bruise the ripe fruit, and let the juice 
 run througli a flannel bag without pressure. To each pint add 
 one pound of powdered white sugar ; and for eveiy three 
 pounds of sugar, add the beaten wliite of an egg. In boiling 
 the syrup, tlie vessel should always be taken from the fire 
 when it is to be skimmed. The jelly is boiled enough, when a 
 little of it will drop in a solid lump to the bottom of a tumbler 
 of cold water. Keep in glasses, covered with clean paper, 
 
 SWEET VO'YKTO.— Convolvulus batatas. 
 
 A convolvulus, deriving its name from the agreeable sweet- 
 ness of the root. It is believed to be a native of the East 
 Indies, although ascribed to many different countries by vari- 
 ous authors. Formerly, it was imported into England from 
 Spain and the Canaries, and sold as a great delicacy. It 
 "was supposed to have the power of restoring decayed vigor. 
 It is said to be the potato of Shakspeare, and cotemporary 
 writers, as at the time he wrote, the common vegetable of 
 that name was scarcely known in Europe, Tlius Falstaff, in 
 the " ^lerry Wives of Windsor," cries '' Let the sky rain pota- 
 toes, let it thunder to the tune of ' Green Sleeves,' hail kissing- 
 comfits, and snow eringoes." The sweet potato is now culti- 
 vated in all the warmer portions of the globe, where, owing to 
 the favorable influences of climate, it may be had on the table 
 for many months. In this country, it is a great favorite with 
 the people of the southern and middle states, and large tracts 
 'are annually devoted to its production. The roots are large, 
 fleshy, and spindle-shaped ; containing much sugar mixed with 
 farina. The vines are herbaceous, taking root at intervals ; 
 while the leaves are smooth, and generally three-lobed. The 
 varieties are numerous, but those cultivated at the south are 
 much superior to our own northern kinds. 
 
 Culture. — Tlie best soil for the sweet potato plant is light, 
 24* 
 
282 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 dry, of rather a sandy character, and in a warm situation. It 
 Bhould be prepared for phinting, by being deeply dug or 
 ploughed, and enriched by a liberal application of manure. All 
 the large clods ought to be pulverized. The ground can then 
 be laid into beds three feet "vvide, with a very shallow drill 
 through the middle of each, or marked out in hills, three feet 
 apart each way. 
 
 Where the season is of sufficient length, the seed potatoes 
 may be planted immediately in the beds prepared for their 
 reception ; but, in northern climates, artificial heat is necessary , 
 to procure early plants. In the latter case, the roots are to be 
 split and placed about three or four inches deep in the soil of a 
 hot-bed, sometime during the latter part of spring. This bed 
 is composed of good, warm dung, to the depth of twelve or fif- 
 teen inches, covered with eight inches of sandy loam. Where 
 the gardener is without sash-lights, he can shelter the bed 
 with half a foot of litter, well pressed down, and protected 
 from rain by a roof of old boards. The soil should be exam- 
 ined every day, to ascertain whether the heat of the dung be 
 too great ; in which case, air must be admitted freely in all 
 pleasant weather. The runners will show themselves in the 
 course of a fortnight or three weeks, and the bed ought, during 
 the process of sprouting, to receive an occasional sprinkling of 
 water. When three inches high above the surface, they are of 
 tlie right size for removal to the open ground. In taking them 
 up, place the left hand on the potato, to keep it from moving, 
 and draw them, one by one, with the right hand. If they be 
 planted in drills, they should be set about nine or ten inches 
 asunder ; but, if in hills, two plants must be allotted to eacli. 
 The operation is most successful, when performed at evening, 
 or in damp, cloudy weather ; and, in a dry time, frequent ap- 
 plications of water, until the roots have taken hold firmly, will 
 be found of great advantage. The potatoes'in the bed will 
 continue throwing up sprouts, for as much as three or four 
 weeks. 
 
DICTIONARY. 283 
 
 Wliere the climate is so mild as to render forcing need- 
 Less, the spUt potatoes are, in early spring, placed in the open 
 ground, at similar distances. It is found better to split large po- 
 tatoes, than to plant small ones uncut. The covering of soil is 
 to be near two inches deep, and rather hollowed upon the top, 
 BO as to catch the rain. 
 
 The bed ought to be carefully cultivated, particularly in 
 the early part of the season. The roots must have plenty of 
 Jight and warmth during their young growth ; and, after they 
 become well established, the soil is to be drawn up around 
 them by means of the hoe, but not so as to form a ridge to turn 
 off the rain. It is recommended tliat, when the vines attach 
 themselves to the ground, they be forcibly torn up, by slipping 
 a rake-handle, or otlier long stick, under them, and raising it 
 gradually. This will throw the vigor of the runners into the 
 roots. 
 
 The crop is fit for harvesting, when the tops decay. Keep- 
 ing the roots through the winter is usually found a difficult 
 matter. The best plan is to dry them in tlie sun, until their 
 moisture is evaporated, then to sweat them in heaps, previous 
 to being packet! m dry sand. We know of some northern cul- 
 tivators, who even take the trouble to wrap each root in a 
 piece of paper, before putting it in the barrel. Probably, the 
 most suitable place for the barrel or bin is a dry cellar, which 
 is perfectly free from frost. Ri order to ensure success, it seems 
 to be necessary to keep tlie potatoes from frost, dampness, 
 light and air. Sometimes, the crop is placed in heaps, five or 
 six feet high, built upon a dry situation in the field. A founda- 
 tion is made of cornstalks or brush, and the lieap is covered 
 with the same, and with a foot of earth upon the outside. The 
 top should be sheltered from rain, by a roof of boards ; and 
 there ought to be a ditch around the heap, to prevent any 
 water getting to the interior. A hole in the top, partially 
 closed with straw, gives the heated air a chance to escape. 
 
 ^or seed, — the roots must be taken very carefully from the 
 
284 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 ground, as the least bruise engenders decay. Tliey are to be 
 packed in leaves or sand, which have been exposed to tlie in- 
 fluence of the sun or a fire until perfectly dry, and then stored 
 in a room where no injury is to be apprehended from the cold. 
 
 Use. — The peculiar, agreeable flavor of the root has long 
 rendered it a favorite at the table. It is called easy of diges- 
 tion, wholesome and nutritious. Containing more saccharine 
 matter than the potato, it is better liked by riiost people. It is 
 not so good when boiled as when baked, a fact that will be 
 readily admitted by those who try it both ways. It also makes 
 an excellent bread, for which consult the receipt on page 239. 
 The young, tender vines are by some persons esteemed as a 
 pot-herb. 
 
 Sweet Potato Pie. — Boil the potatoes very soft ; then peel 
 and mash them. To every quarter of a jwund, put one quart 
 of milk, three tablespoonfuls of butter, four beaten eggs, to- 
 gether with sugar and nutmeg to the taste. It will be much 
 improved by the addition of a glass of wine. 
 
 Swiss Chakd.— /See BEET. 
 
 TANSY. — Tanacetum vulgare. 
 
 Tansy is a perennial, which is to be found growing wild 
 in many parts of Europe, and is now naturalized in this 
 country. The stem rises about two feet above the ground, 
 bearing golden yellow flowers. The whole plant lias a sliarp^ 
 bitter taste, togetlier with a powerful, aromatic odor, which 
 are agreeable to some j>erson3. Tlie Curled-leaved variety is 
 about the only one cultivated for culinary purposes. 
 
 Culture. — It is propagated in spring by seed, rooted slips 
 or divisions of the roots. The plants should stand from twelve 
 to eighteen inches asunder. The best soil is one of a di'j» 
 
DICTIONARY. 285 
 
 light and moderately fertile character, in an open situation. 
 It is sometimes necessary to Avater a new plantation, when 
 dry weather succeeds. The ground is to be frequently stirred, 
 and all up-^tart weeds are to be eradicated. Cutting down 
 tlie large stalks will encourage a growth of young leaves. In 
 autumn, the decayed branches should be removed, and a little 
 good loam spread over the bed. 
 
 Use. — Tansy is now but little regarded by the herb-doc- 
 tor, although formerly thought highly of for its virtues as a 
 stimulant and carminative. The young leaves are sometimes, 
 though not frequently, shredded to color and flavor puddings, 
 omelettes, etc. 
 
 * 
 TARRAGON". — Artemisia draeunculus. 
 
 A perennial, originally from the noi*thern part of Asia. It 
 was brought to England in 1548, and has there obtained the 
 name of Dragon's-wort. It has a fragrant smell and an aro- 
 matic taste, for "which it is greatly esteemed by the French. 
 Only one variety is grown for culinary purposes. 
 
 CuLTDEE. — Plants are obtained from seed sown in the 
 spring, or from cuttings, slips or offsets of the root, set out 
 in either spring or autinnn. They should be about one foot 
 distant from each other. They flourish best m soil which is 
 poor and dry, in a warm situation, because they often suffer 
 from frost when they grow too luxuriantly. A little water, 
 apj)lied every now and then, is of great benefit to the roots 
 before they become well established. The ground should be 
 kept clean, and the stalks must not be permitted to run up 
 unless seed is wanted. Some winter protection ought to be 
 afforded the plants, by a covering of straw or any coarse 
 litter. 
 
286 CTARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 Use. — In Persia it has long been customary to use the 
 leaves of tarragon to create an appetite. Together with the 
 young tops, they are put in salads to correct the coldness of 
 other herbs, in pickles, and in vinegar for fish-sauce. They 
 are also eaten with beefsteaks, si;rved up with ht)rse-radish. 
 They are in the best state to be dried for winter use, in July 
 and August. The superior vinegar of Miiille, in France, owes 
 itrt flavor to this plant. 
 
 THYME. — Thymus vulgaris. 
 
 An evergreen shrub, originally from southern Europe. It 
 Jrns a strong, penetrating odor, together with a sharp, pungent 
 laste. Its name is derived from the Greek word for courage, ia 
 allusion to its supposed qualities for reviving the strength and 
 cheering the spirits. On account of its fragrance, it was for- 
 merly used in sacrificing. The varieties are, — the Narrow- 
 leaved, — the Broad-leaved, — and the Variegated ; — the last of 
 which is grown almost wholly on account of its ornamental 
 appearance. 
 
 Culture. — The best soil is one that is poor, light and 
 warm, in a free, open exposure. Plants ai'e obtained either 
 from seed, sown in sliallow drills six inches apart, or from 
 rooted slips, set out in rows six inches apart each way. Early 
 spring is tlie most suitable period for making a new bed, and 
 it should be done, if possible, on a damp, cloudy day. In dry 
 weather, the surface of the seed bed ought to be gently 
 pressed by the spade or board, and the rooted slips must re- 
 ceive an occasional sprinkling until they become well estab- 
 lished. 
 
 AV hen .the seedlings are one or two inclies above the ground, 
 they are to be thinned to distances of six niches in the drill, and 
 those pulled can be set out in another place, wliera tliey will 
 lake a good start, if kept uioist. The ground ^nould at al! 
 
DICTIONARY. 287 
 
 times be clean and light. In autumn, the decayed branches 
 are to be removed, and the stools covered with a little mold. 
 For seed, — the stalks must be permitted to flower. Cut 
 the stalks before the rain has an opportunity to wash out the 
 eeed, and dry them in the shade. 
 
 Use. — Owing to their aromatic qualities, the young leaves 
 and tops are valued for seasoning soups, sauces and other 
 culinary preparations. An infusion is excellent as a tonic for 
 the stomach, and as a cure for the headache. They are pre- 
 served for winter use, by being cut when the flowers have 
 Just opened, in June or July, and dried before the fire, to be 
 powdered and kept in tight bottles. The whole plant yields 
 an essential oil, which is highly charged with camphor. 
 
 TO M ATO. — Solamitn ly coper sicum. 
 
 One of the most interesting facts in the history of tliis 
 vegetable, is its sudden rise in public favor in this country. 
 It was formerly known as the Love Apple, and cultivated in 
 the flower garden for its ornamental appearance, the fruit 
 being by some persons considered poisonous. Within a very 
 few years, however, it has attained a high reputation among 
 esculents, and, in the neighborhood of cities, large fields are 
 annually 'devoted to its production for market. It belongs to 
 tlie same genus as the jjotato and the egg-plant. It was in- 
 troduced into Europe from South America in the year 1596, 
 and derived the name of tomato from the Portuguese, The 
 plant is an annual of rank growth, the leaves somewhat re- 
 sembling those of the potato, but the flowers are yellow, while 
 the fruit is about the size of a small apple, with an acid flavor 
 that is quite disagreeable to those unaccustomed to it. The 
 principal varieties have received their names from the pecu- 
 liar shape and color of their fruit, viz : — the Large Red, — the 
 Large Yellow, — the Pear-shaped, — and the Cherry- shaped, — 
 the last two of whi«h ar« mostly used for pickling purposes 
 
288 " GARDETfER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 Culture. — As with every other choice vegetable, the first 
 supply of tomatoes in the season commands an unusually high 
 price, and affords a good profit. It is, therefore, an object 
 with market gardeners to bring the first crop to maturity aa 
 soon as possible. To other cultivators this should be not less 
 desirable, because early vegetables are highly prized in all 
 kitchens, and must certainly reduce the expense of living. 
 
 In order to obtain early plants, many small cultivators aro 
 in the habit of sowing the seed, somewhere about the last of 
 March, in boxes which are to be placed in the windows of a 
 warm room. When the weather becomes mild and pleasant, 
 the seedlings will have attained a suitable height for removal 
 to the garden, where they ought to be protected during night^a 
 and cool days until they are accustomed to the change of situ- 
 ation. 
 
 But those persons who are supplied with the necessary 
 conveniences, will find it most for their interest to mahe use 
 of a gentle hot-bed. The heat should not be violent, and the 
 covering of mold may be about six inches in depth. Tlie 
 seed — one ounce of which is considered sufficient for from 
 three to four thousand plants, — is sown quite early in spring, 
 thinly, and covered one third of an inch deep. As soon aa 
 the plants are two inches high, they must be properly thinned, 
 Qr they will be injured by standing too close together. For 
 this first thinning, the right distance is near three inches apart. 
 Those wliich are drawn can be set in a similar bed, to be wa- 
 tered and shaded until well rooted. 
 
 The cultivator must be careful to admit air freely to his 
 seedlings under glass, during all pleasant weather. The ob- 
 servance of this rule seems to be indispensable to a successful 
 result, for, when confined in a warm atmosphere without a 
 free circulation of air, they soon become spindling and weak. 
 It being desirable to remove them to the open ground, with- 
 out doing the roots any more injury than is unavoidable, it is a 
 good plan to put some of those wliich are most advanced into 
 
DICTIONARY. 289 
 
 pots, to be kept in the frame until May, and then set out with 
 balls of earth attached. Tliis single thing may make a dif- 
 ference of several days in the maturity of the crop, — a cir- 
 cumstance by no means to be overlooked. 
 
 At the latter part of April, or the beginning of May, ac- 
 cording to the character of the season, the most forward plants 
 are to be placed in a border, sheltered from cold winds and 
 having the full influence of the sun. The most suitable soil is 
 one that is rich, light, easily worked, and neither wet nor dry. 
 When the border is not sufficiently rich, it will be well to set 
 the plants in holes, which have been filled with good com- 
 post. They should stand about three feet apai't, and, if pos- 
 sible, against the south side of a fence or trellis. They are to 
 be gradually hardened, and during all inclement weatlier, as 
 well as during cold nights, must be screened by hand-glasses, 
 small boxes or flower pots. Shade may be necessary at noon- 
 day, until they appear well established. Careful attention will 
 be required to prevent loss of vigor by the change of situation. 
 
 llie seed for the main crop is to be sown as soon as the 
 weather becomes settled in April or May. It should be got 
 into the ground as early in the season as may seem prudent, 
 because tliere is some danger of the crop being overtaken by 
 frost in the following autumn. Make the bed in a warm bor- 
 der, and transplant in the latter part of May. 
 
 The duties of the cultivator are simple and easy of ap- 
 plication. He must hasten the growth of tlie plants by all means 
 in his jx)wer. The surface soil is to be stirred frequently with 
 the hoe, and a little drawn up to the stems for their support. 
 Where the bi-anches are not kept erect by being trained upon 
 the fence or trellis, it is usual to put brushwood around them, 
 for the same purpose. Covering the ground with refuse straw 
 or litter, is found beneficial as checking evaporation, pre- 
 venting injury from drought, and keeping the fruit clean. It 
 is a good plan to cut oflf the tops of the stems, not long after 
 the blossoms fall, which accelerates the ripening of the crop. 
 25 
 
290 GARDE]>rER'S TEXT-BOOK, 
 
 Some persons are in the habit of pulling up tlie plants when 
 frost is expected, atid either hanging them in a dry, airy apart- 
 ment, or laying them in an empty hot-bed frame, with the 
 glass kept close. By so doing, the season of the fruit can be 
 still further extended. 
 
 For seed, — some of the most forward fruit is to be left 
 on the bushes until it becomes perfectly ripe. Then the seed 
 is to be washed from tlie beny, and after being dried, put 
 away in paper bags. 
 
 Use. — Perhaps no fruit or vegetable described in this vol- 
 ume, is prepared in such a variety of ways as tlie tomato. 
 "When green, it is made into pickles and sauces ; and, when 
 ripe, into soups, stews and sauces ; besides being pickled, pre- 
 served, roasted, and made into catsup. But, it is said, that 
 compared with the Italians, we have little idea of the many 
 forms in which it can be brought to the table. We have 
 room for only a few receipts. 
 
 To cook. — If the tomatoes aie not quite ripe, dipping them 
 into hot water will loosen their skins so that they may be 
 easily peeled. Put them in a stew pan, together with a table- 
 spoonful of water, in case they are not very juicy. Add a 
 little butter and salt, and stew the whole for lialf an hour. 
 
 Anotlier way, — is to put them in a deep dish, witli layers of 
 bread crumbs or powdered crackers, being well seasoned with 
 salt, pepper, nutmeg, and sugar. The top layer sliould be of 
 crumbs. Bake for half an hour. 
 
 Tomato Omelette. — Take a stew pan, and melt a piece of 
 butter the size of a nutmeg. Minoe up an onion very fine, 
 and fry it quite brown. Add ten peeled tomatoes, seasoned 
 with pepper and salt, and stir them until cooked to a soft pulp. 
 Then ^tir in four beaten eggs, until the undert^ide of tlie mass 
 becomes brown. Lay a plate on. top, turn the pan upside 
 down, and the omelette is ready for the table. 
 
 Tomato Marmalade. — Gather full-grown tomatoes wliea 
 
DICTIONARY. 291 
 
 quite green. Stew tliem until soft, when they are to be 
 rubbed through a sieve, again put over the fire, and seasoned 
 highly with pepper, salt, and powdered cloves. Let the pulp 
 Btew until it boconies v«ry thick. It will then keep well, and 
 be excellent for sea'^^oning gravies. 
 
 2^oinato Catsup. — To one quart of ripe tomatoes, put two 
 tablespoonfuls of salt, two tablespoonfuls of black pepper, two 
 tablespoonfuls of good mustard, a half-tablespoonful of all- 
 spice, and three red peppers ground fine. Simmer the whole 
 together wilh a pint of vinegar, in a tin vessel, slowly for 
 thi'ee hours. Strain through a sieve. Bottle and cork tight. 
 The later in the season it is made, the better it will keep. 
 
 To preserve f 07' winter use. — Put perfectly -ripe fruit in a 
 stone pot, or a glazed earthen jar, and cover them with salt 
 and water strong enough to bear an egg. Before being 
 cooked, they ought to be soaked in fresh water for several hom's. 
 
 Another receipt. — Scald the ripe fruit, which should be of 
 small size, and, after the skins are removed, squeeze them 
 slightly. Spread them on earthen dishes, which are to be 
 placed in a brick oven after the bread has been taken out, and 
 let them remain there until the next morning. Then put them 
 in bags, and keep them m a diy place. The tomatoes are in 
 the best condition for preserving, in the months of July and 
 August. Before being cooked, soak them in fresh water for a 
 few hours. 
 
 To preserve Tomatoes. — For the sake of variety, we append 
 a poetical receipt for preserving tomatoes, furnished to the 
 " American Agriculturist," by some fair reader : — 
 
 " Six pounds of tomatoes first carefully wipe, 
 Not fluted, nor green, but round, ruddy and ripe ; 
 After scalding, and peeling, and rinsing them nice — 
 With dext'rous fingers 'tis done in a trice — 
 Add three pounds of sugar, (Orleans will suit,) 
 in layers alternate of sugar and fruit 
 
292 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 In a deep earthen dish, let them stand for a night, 
 
 Allowing the sugar and juice to unite. 
 
 Boil the syrup, next da}', in a veiy clean kettle, 
 
 (Not iron, — but coppei-, zinc, brass, or bell metal,) 
 
 "Which havnig well skimn;ied, 'till yovi think 'twill suffice, 
 
 Throw in the tomatoes, first adding some spice — 
 
 Cloves, cinnamon, mace, or wlmte'er you like best, — 
 
 'IVill add to the flavor, and give them a zest. 
 
 Boil slowly together, until they begin 
 
 To shrink at the sides, and appear to fall in ; 
 
 Then take them up lightly, and lay them to cool, 
 
 Still boiling the syrup, according to rule, 
 
 Until it is perfectly clear and translucent — 
 
 Your skill will direct you, or else there's no use in't. 
 
 Then into the jars, where the fruit is placed proper, 
 
 Pour boiling, the syrup, direct from the copper. 
 
 After standing till cold, dip some paper in brandy, 
 
 Or rum, or in whiskey, if that be more liandy ; 
 
 Lay it over the fruit with attention and care, 
 
 And run on mutton suet to keep out the air ; 
 
 Then tie a strong paper well over the top, — 
 
 And, ' now that I think on't, the story may stop.' 
 
 If you'll follow these rules, your preserves never fear, 
 
 Will keep in good order till this time next year." 
 
 TREE OmOl^.— Allium proliferum. 
 
 This hardy perennial species of the onion fjimily is some- 
 times called the Canada Onion, because it is much cultivated 
 in cold countries where the other kinds do not flourish well. 
 Small bulbs are produced at the top of the stalks, — hence its 
 name. Propagation is efiected by planting the offsets of old 
 roots in spring or autumn, or the top bulbs in the middle of 
 spring. They should be set about six inches apart, in rows 
 that are one foot distant from each other. The onlv care re- 
 
DICTIONARY, 
 
 293 
 
 quired, is to keep the ground well tilled, and to support the 
 etems by stake.s. The bulbs are to be gathered when the tops 
 decay, dried in a shady place, and preserved in a dry, cool 
 apartment 
 
 TJJRNIF.—Brassica 
 
 rapa. 
 
 Little is known of the history of this valuable plant. Its 
 origin appears uncertain, but the choicest English varieties, from 
 which our own are descended, were brought from Hanover. 
 For culinary purposes it has been prized from the earliest pe- 
 riods, long before it was considered important in an agricultural 
 point of view. Columella recommends its extensive cultiva- 
 tion, because that portion of the crop not wanted for the table, 
 will be greedily eaten by the farm-cattle. At the present day, 
 however, its merits are generally acknowledged, and in some 
 countries it occupies a conspicuous position in every system of 
 husbandry. It must be yet fresh in our minds, how, in the re- 
 cent dearth in Ireland, the people placed their whole trust upon 
 the success of the turnip crop. The varieties are numerous ; 
 but the best are those known as — the White Butch — the JRed- 
 top — the Earlij Garden Stoite, — the White Flat, — the Yellow 
 Dutch, — tlie Yellow Aberdeen — and the Improved Sioedish. 
 
 Culture. — Experience has proved the best soil to be one 
 of a light character, such as a sand or gravel mixed with loam. 
 On land of this description the roots will be found sweet and 
 well flavored. It should be rich, — capable of yielding abund- 
 antly, and yet not so rank as to injure the quality of the pro- 
 duct. Guano, bone-dust, ashes, gypsum and salt, are consid- 
 ered excellent manures. 
 
 The first sowing ought to be made in March or April, soon 
 
 after the frost is out of the ground, and in a warm, sheltered 
 
 border. For this early crop, the best varieties are the White 
 
 Dutch and the Red-top. The Improved Swedish should be sown 
 
 25* 
 
294 
 
 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 about the last of July, and the otlier kinds sometime during 
 August. The latter part of the month is the best for the win- 
 ter and spring supplies. 
 
 Sowing is best performed in damp, cloudy weather, imme- 
 diately before a shower. The soil should be freshly dug, and 
 raked smooth upon the surface. The seed — one ounce being 
 sufficient for two liundred square feet, — is to be dropped tliinly 
 m drills, one foot apart, and half an incli deep. To avoid 
 wasting it, some persons are in tlie habit of mixing it with dry 
 sand, which secures a more regular distribution. Many differ- 
 ent methods of protecting the young plants against the ravages 
 of msects, have been proposed. It is recommended to press or 
 roll the surface immediately after sowing, when performed in 
 dry weather, — to soak the seed in some liquid that will not 
 only accelerate the growth of the germ, but also impart a dis- 
 agreeable taste to the first leaves, — to put ashes, lime, plaster, 
 bone-dust, charcoal or poudrette, in the drill with the seed, — 
 or to burn a quantity of liglit brush upon the bed before sow- 
 ing. Watenng the ground at 'evening will bring up the plants 
 in a few hours' time, and where danger is "apprehended, it is 
 advisable to sprinkle them, wlien moist, with ashes, plaster, 
 soot, or anytliing calculated to disgust tlie nostrils of the de- 
 stroyers. Should all these precautions fail, the gardener must 
 not despair at seeing the tender leaves entirely cut off, but sow 
 again and again until his efforts are crowned witli success. 
 
 Wlien the plants have tlie rough leaves about an inch in 
 breadth, they should be thinned out to distances of tlnee or 
 four inches in the drill. As soon as they appear perfectly well 
 established, every other one is to be drawn, leaving tlie bulbs 
 six or eight inches apart, so that they may have plenty of space 
 to acquire a good size. The ground ought to be frequently 
 stirred, but not drawn up around the roots. About the middle 
 of autumn, when frost is expected, the bulbs ft>r winter and 
 spring use are to be taken up and stored. The leaves sliould 
 be cut off within an inch of the crown, and the roots are tlien 
 
DICTIONATIV. 295 
 
 to be put in n dry cellar, or piled in the open field, with a cov- 
 ering of straw and eanh. When properly managed, they will 
 retain their freshness throughout the winter, and prove excel- 
 lent for the table in the succeeding spring. 
 
 Fo7' seed. — Some of the best-shaped and medium-sized 
 roots should be set out, in March or April, in rows eighteen 
 inches apart each way. The stalks are to be supported by 
 being tied to stakes, and, as soon as the seed becomes hard, to 
 be cut and laid in a shed to dry. It will there ripen without 
 being wasted, and can at any time be beaten out by means of a 
 small stick. That which is fresh germinates most readily. 
 
 Use. — Tlie tender tops, gathered in spring, make a very 
 good dish of greens. The roots are considered a nutritious and 
 wholesome esculent, although difficult of digestion in some 
 stomachs. Owing to the scarcity of grain in England many 
 years since, the poor people made bread of equal proportions 
 of wheat flour and boiled turnips. In common cookery, they 
 are generally boiled plain. When tender, they are drained, , 
 mashed, and seasoned with butter, pepper and salt. They are 
 also put in soups and stews. The syrup, extracted by baking, 
 and mixed with honey, is excellent for coughs, hoarseness, and 
 complaints of a kindred nature. 
 
 Vegetable OrsTER. — See SALSIFY. 
 
 WATER CRESS. — Slsipnbriinn nasturtium. 
 
 " Eat cress and learn more wit," says an ancient proverb. 
 It would seem that the plant once had a high reputation for 
 its cordial and stimulating qualities, being thought to invigor- 
 ate persons of a cold, phlegmatic disposition, and to quicken 
 the understanding. Although its medicinal virtues are now 
 rated much less, it has become a favorite vegetable in Europe 
 and some parts of this country. It is grown in immense 
 
296 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 quantities for the London markets, and is in considerable de- 
 mand at the markets of New- York and Philadelphia, 
 
 Culture. — The water-cress is best pleased with a clear, 
 modeiately-swift stream, one and a half inches deep, and 
 having a sandy or gravelly bottom. The nearer the stream 
 may be its source, the more successful will be the plants- 
 Where the bottom is naturally of mud, it should be covered 
 with gravel, Tlie plants are sometimes thrown on the sur- 
 face, when the seed will fall to the bottom, and germinate. At 
 other times, they are set in rows parallel with the course of 
 tlie stream, and according to its depth, the rows will be from 
 eighteen inches to three feet apart. Again, cress is cultivated 
 on low ground, which can be irrigated at pleasuie. The bed 
 is deeply dug with the spado, and, in spring or autumn, as 
 most convenient, laid out into shallow trenches. The plants 
 are set in these trenches six inches asunder, and must be 
 plentifully supplied with water at all times duiing their 
 growth. 
 
 Use. — Water cress is well known as an anti-scorbutic, and 
 is generally considered a purifier of the blood The warm, 
 pungent taste of the leaves renders them a favorite for early 
 spring salads. We are surprised that the plant is not more 
 extensively cultivated. 
 
 WATERMELON.— Cucurblta citmllus. 
 
 Upper Egypt, Bokhara and the island of Cypius, are tlie 
 countries most distinguished for the culture of this fruit. It is 
 there brought to great perfection, and is highly esteemed for 
 its sweet, succulent flesh, and gratefully cool juice. It is justly 
 pronounced one of the most delicious refreshments tliat na- 
 ture, amidst her constant attention to the wants of man, af- 
 fords in the season of violent heat. Dr. E. D. Clark, in his 
 
DICTIONARY. 297 
 
 travels through Egypt, gives an interosthig account of the 
 melon cultivation on the Nile. When the water subsides, after 
 the periodical inundations, the rich sediment that is left on the 
 banks, is manured with pigeon-dung and planted with melons. 
 Tlie product is astonishingly large, and is said to perfume the 
 air to a great distance. It is eaten by the Egyptians, and 
 those of the lower classes in particular, so freely that it has 
 been called their meat, drink and physic. In cases of ardent 
 fever, it is their mo-;t common medicine. This well explains 
 the regret expressed by the Israelites for the loss of this fruit, 
 which had so often quenched their thirst and relieved their 
 weariness, and would have been so grateful in a dry, scorch- 
 ing desert. 
 
 The water-melon is very popular in the United States, as 
 one might well infer from the enormous quantities yearly car- 
 ried to market. It has not the fragrance, nor the rich flavor, 
 of the common melon ; but its refreshing coolness, together 
 with its beautiful apj^earance, cause it to be a general favorite 
 during the hot season. The following are the varieties most 
 worthy of notice : — the Black Spanish, — the Imperial, — the 
 Mountain Sweet, — and the 3foimtai7i Sprout. 
 
 Culture. — This is almost identical with that of the melon. 
 The best soil is of a sandy character, but very rich, and having 
 the full benefit of the sun. In those countries where the vine 
 proves most successful, it is always grown on a sand. And, 
 where the soil is naturally wot and heavy, it is advisable to 
 dig out deep holes, to be filled up with a light compost for 
 the reception of the seed. In field culture, the finest croDS 
 are raised upon an old meadow sod, turned over by the plough 
 '\n the middle of spring. 
 
 To have the fruit in perfect purity, it should not be in the 
 neighborhood of other vines of the same family. Let the hills 
 be at least seven feet apart, so as to afford ample room for 
 the spread of the foliage, and three or four inches above the 
 
298 GARDENER'S TEXT-BOOK. 
 
 surfiice of the ground. Plant nine or ten peeds in eacli, some- 
 where about the tir.-t week of May, to be covered lialt" an inch 
 deep. One ounce of seed will thus supply near fifty hills. Whe?3 
 the plants have two rough leaves, reduce their number to 
 three in a hill ; and when the blossom-buds are presented, 
 pinch off the ends of the shoots, to induce the production of 
 fertile laterals. Keep the earth mellow, and draw a little 
 around the stems as high as the seed-leaves. Guard against 
 the attacks of insects, by the use of the vine-^^hield, and by 
 sprinkling soot, tobacco-dust, etc., upon the liills. For more 
 particular directions, reference is to be made to the article 
 upon the culture of the Melox, 
 
 Use. — Apart from the use of tlie water-melon for the 
 dessert, it may be pickled, or baked in sweet wine, or preserv- 
 ed as sweetmeats. The inspissated juice makes a very 
 pleasant syrup, and in some parts of Europe is brewed into 
 beer. 
 
 To preserve the rindf:. — Cut the rind in small strips, which 
 are to be boiled fifteen minutes in a weak pearlash-water. 
 Then drain them, and to every pound add one pound <>f l<^at 
 sugar. Boil the whole for twenty minutes, or until Ihe rmrt 
 becomes quite soft. Tlie syrup will probably requn-e scaldmc: 
 several times. 
 
 WORM \'/00D. — Artemisia aostnimum. 
 
 Wormwood belongs to the same genus of plants as the 
 tarragon. It is an- erect under-shrub, of a hardy constitution, 
 and to be found wild in nearly every part of Europe, growing 
 by the road-«ide and on heaps of old rubbish. 'J'he leaves and 
 fiowers are warm and bitter, with a strong, nauseous smell ; 
 the roots are Avarm and aromatic. " As bitter as wormwood," 
 has become a conrmon expression, no less significant than that 
 every-day phrase, " As co(tl as a cucumber." 
 
DICTIONARY. 299 
 
 Culture. — Tliis plant is best suited with a light, dry and 
 poi)r poil, for when its growth becomes very luxuriant, it loses 
 a good j)art of its aromatic qualities, and is less able to endure 
 the rigors of winter. It is propagated by seed, as well as by 
 Blips and cuttings. Sow thinly in early spring, or in autumn 
 soon after the seed ripens. "When the plants have attained a 
 height of two inches, thin them to distances of six inches 
 apart. The slips and cuttings are to be taken off at midsum- 
 mer, and set out in a shaded border, in rows six or eight 
 inches apart each way, to be watered regulaily until they 
 have become established. Transplanting to the permanent 
 location, is to be performed in the following spring. Keep the 
 ground light and clean, and clear away the dead stalks in au- 
 tumn. 
 
 Use. — "Wormwood is cultivated chiefly for medicinal pur- 
 poses. It has tonic properties, and is sometimes employed as 
 a stomachic. A considerable quantity of oil rises from it in 
 distillation, which is used to destroy worms. An infusion of 
 the leaves, with the addition of a fixed alkali, makes a pow- 
 f-rf'ul diuretic in cases of dropsy. Before the use of liops was 
 Known, wormwood was mucli employed by the brewer in tl^e 
 composition y.f bter and ule ; and it now enters into the French 
 beverage called ea a (rab-'iinf/ie, wh\ch is thought to create an 
 appetite, and ovp.rci^e a healing influence r.pon the system. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Artichoke : its description, varieties and culture, 85 ; use, 88. 
 
 , Jerusalem: see Jerusalem Artichoke. 
 
 Asparagus : its history, description and varieties, 89 ; culture, 
 
 90 ; use, 96. 
 Author's Garden: description of, 21. 
 
 Balm : its description, culture and use, 97. 
 
 Basil: its description and culture, 98 ; use, 99. 
 
 Bean: — the Dwarf, its varieties, 99 ; and culture, 100; — the 
 
 Pole, their varieties, 101 ; and culture, 102 ; use, 103. 
 Beet: its history, varieties and culture, 105; use, 107. 
 Borage: its description, culture and use, 108. 
 Borecole: its description, 108; sub-varieties, culture and. use, 
 
 109. 
 Broccoli : its description, sub-varieties and culture, 110 ; use, 
 
 112. 
 Brussels-Sprouts: its description, culture and use, 113. 
 Burnet : its description and culture, 114; use, 115. 
 
 Cabbage: its history, desciiption, and sub- varieties, 115; cul- 
 ture, 116 ; use, 121. 
 
 Capsicum, see Pepper. 
 
 Cardoon : its liistory, description and culture, 122 ; use, 123. 
 
 Carrot : its history, 123 ; varieties and culture, 12-4 ; use, 126. 
 
 Cauliflower: its description, sub-varieties and culture, 127 ; 
 use, 130. 
 
 Celeriac: its description, culture and. use, 131. 
 
 Celerv : its history, varieties and culture, 132; use, 135. 
 
 Chervil: its description and culture, 136 ; use, 137. 
 
 Chive: its description and culture, 137; use, 138> 
 
 Cistern, the, 23-25. 
 26 
 
302 INDEX. 
 
 Cold Frame, the, 77. 
 
 Corn, Indian : see Indian Corn. 
 
 Corn Salad : its description and culture, 138 ; use, 139. 
 
 Cress : its history and culture, 139 ; use, 140. 
 
 Cress, Indian, see Indian Cress. 
 
 , "Water, see Water Cress. 
 
 Cucumber: its history, 140 ; varieties and culture, 141 ; 
 
 148. 
 Cultivation with the Hoe, 59. 
 Currant : its history and description, 149 ; varieties and 
 
 ture, 150 ; use, 152. 
 
 Dictionary of Vegetables, Fruits and Medicinal Herbs, 85. 
 Dill : its description and history, 154 ; culture and use, 155. 
 
 Early Plants for Spring Use, 76. 
 
 Egg-Plant ; its history, 155 ; varieties and culture, 156 ; use, 
 
 157. 
 Enclosure of the Garden, 19. 
 
 Endive: its history, varieties and culture, 158; use, 160. 
 Escalot, or Eschalot, see Shallot. 
 Exposure of the Garden, 14. 
 
 Fennel: its description and cultui'e, 161 ; use, 162. 
 
 Fetticus, see Corn Salad. 
 
 FoRCiNG-Pit, the : its appearance and advantages, 26. 
 
 Forcing Vegetation, 78. 
 
 Formation of the Kitchen Garden, 14-37. 
 
 Gardening, beneficial influences of, 8. 
 
 Garlic : its history and description, 162 ; culture and use, 163. 
 
 General Management of the Kitchen Garden, 38-84. 
 
 Gooseberry: its liistory, description and varieties, 164; cul- 
 ture, 165; use, 167. 
 
 Grape: its history, 168; value and varieties, 169; culture, 
 170^ use, 170. 
 
INDEX. 303 
 
 Guinea Squash ; see Egg-Plant. 
 Gumbo : see OTcra. 
 
 Hoeing, objects of, 60. 
 
 Hop : its history, 116 ; description, 177 ; culture, 178 ; use, 180. 
 
 Horse-Radish; its description and culture, 181 ; use, 183. 
 
 Horticultural Pursuits, a growing taste for, 5. 
 
 Hot-Bed, the, 80. 
 
 Hyssop : its description and culture, 183 ; use, 184. 
 
 Implements for the Gardener, 27-37. 
 
 Indian Corn : its description, 184 ; varieties and culture, 185 ; 
 use, 187. 
 
 Indian Cress : its histoiy, description and culture, 183 ; use, 
 189. 
 
 Insects injurious to Garden Crops, 66, 
 
 Internal Arrangements of the Garden, 20. 
 
 Introduction, 5-13. ^^ 
 
 x 
 
 Jerusalem Artichoke: its history and description, 189; cul- 
 ture and use, 190. 
 
 Kale, see Borecole and Sea-Kale. 
 
 Kidney Bean, 99. 
 
 Kitchen Garden : its value, 5-13 ; formation, 14-37. 
 
 Labor, a Programme of, 41 . 
 
 , the dignity and necessity of, 7. 
 
 Lamb's Lettuce, see Corn Salad. 
 
 Lavender : its history, description, and culture, 191 ; use, 192. 
 
 Leek : its history, description and varieties, 192 ; culture, 193 ; 
 
 use, 194. 
 Lettuce: its history and description, 194; culture, 195 ; use, 
 
 198. 
 Love Apple, see Toinaio. 
 
304 INDEX. 
 
 Manures necessary for the Soil, 46 ; different kinds for Gar- 
 den use, 48. 
 
 Marigold: its description, culture and use, 199. 
 
 Marjoram : its description and culture, 200 ; use, 201. 
 
 Marsh Gardens at Paris, 24. 
 
 Melon : its history, description and varieties, 201 ; culture, 
 202 ; use, 206. 
 
 Melon, Water, see Wate7' Melon. 
 
 Mint: its description, 206 ; species, culture and use, 207. 
 
 Mushroom: its description and culture, 208; use, 210. 
 
 Mustard: its description and history, 211 ; culture, 212; use, 
 
 Nasturtium, see Indian Cress. 
 
 New Zealand Spinach : its description and culture, 213 ; use, 
 214. 
 
 Okra: its Ijllitory and description, 214; culture and use, 215. 
 Onion : its history and description, 216 ; varieties and culture, 
 
 217 ; use, 220. 
 Onion, Potato, see Potato Onion. 
 Onion, Tree, see Tree Onion, 
 
 Parsley : its description, varieties and culture, 221 ; use, 222. 
 Parsnip ; its description and culture, 223 ; use, 225. 
 Pea : its history, 225 ; varieties and culture, 226 ; use, 230. 
 Pennyroyal, see Mint. 
 
 Pepper : its description and culture, 231 ; use, 232. 
 Peppermint, see Mint. 
 Pie-Plant, see Rhubarb. 
 Pompion, see PumpMn. 
 Por Marigold, see Marigold. 
 
 Potato : its history, 232 ; varieties, 233 ; culture, 234 ; dis- 
 eases, 237 ; use, 238. 
 Potato, Sweet, see Su'eet Potato. 
 
INDEX. 305 
 
 Potato Oxiox : its description and culture, 239. 
 
 PuMPKix : its description, varieties and culture, 240 ; use, 241. 
 
 Quixce: its description, 241 ; varieties and culture, 242 ; use, 
 243. 
 
 Radisu : its history, description aud varieties, 244 : culture, 
 
 245 ; use, 247. 
 Rain, Indications of, 52. 
 Raspberry : its description and varieties, 247 ; culture, 248 ; 
 
 use, 250. 
 Rhubarb : its description, varieties and culture, 251 ; use, 253. 
 Rosemary : its description and culture, 254 ; use, 255. 
 Rotation of crops, 50. 
 Rue : its description, culture and use, 255. 
 
 Sage : its description and culture, 256 ; use, 257. 
 
 Salsify : its description and culture, 258 ; use, 259. 
 
 Savory : its description and culture, 259 ; use, 260. 
 
 Scorzonera: its description and culture, 260 ; use, 261. 
 
 Sea-Kale : its history, description, and culture, 261 ; use, 264. 
 
 Sea-KL\le Beet, 105. 
 
 Seed, selection of, for sowing, 54; steeping, 58; saving, 73. 
 
 Shallot : its history, description and culture, 265 ; use, 266. 
 
 Shelter upon the north and west sides, advantages of, 19. 
 
 Situation of the Garden, 14. 
 
 Size and shape of the Garden, IS. 
 
 Skirret : its history and description, 266 ; culture and use, 
 
 267. 
 Soil of the Garden, 16 ; how it may be improved, 17 ; depth. 
 
 and mellowness necessary, 42. 
 Sorrel : its description, 267 ; culture and use, 268. 
 Sowing, 55. 
 Spading, 46. 
 Spear-mint, see Mint. 
 2^* 
 
306 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Spinach: its description, 268 ; varieties and culture, 269 ; use, 
 
 271. 
 Spinach, New Zealand : see New Zealand Spinach. 
 Squash: its description, varieties and culture, 212; use, 273. 
 Strawberry, its description, 273. 
 Sweet Marjoram, see Marjoram. 
 
 Sweet Potato: its description and culture, 281 ; use, 284. 
 Swiss Chard, see Beet. 
 
 Tansy : culture, 284 ; use, 285. 
 
 Tarragon : culture, 285 ; use, 286. 
 
 Thousand-headed Cabbage, see Brussels-Sprouts. 
 
 Thyme : its description, varieties and culture, 286 ; use, 287. 
 
 Time, the employment of, 38. 
 
 Tomato : its history, description and varieties, 287 ; culture, 
 
 288 ; use, 290. 
 Tool House and its Contents, 27. 
 Transplanting, when and how performed, 69. 
 Tree Onion : its description and culture, 292. 
 Trenching the Soil, 44. 
 Turnip-rooted Celery, see Celeriac. 
 Turnip: its history, variety and culture, 293 ; use, 295. 
 
 Vegetable Oyster, see Salsify. 
 Vermin, the Destruction of, 62. 
 Vine, see Grape. 
 Vitality of Seeds, 76. 
 
 Water Cress : its description, 295 ; culture and use, 296. 
 Watering Plants, its value, 28, 71 ; cautions to be observed, 
 
 24, 72 ; how and when to be done, 25, 72. 
 Water Melon: its description, 296; varieties and culture, 
 
 297 ; use, 298 
 Winter Mar-ioram, see Marjoraiii. 
 Wormwood : its description, 298 ; culture and use, 299. 
 
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