„1^ ... -P^ «MiTn PM^TO^SON COMPANY WHOLi:^AL>E^ a.txd RETAIL. mmm merchants mmm siivusMrrHs MS STATION ERS Vi^ifors io ovir slor© are dluja^s Mjelcorrve aa\d ir\spedioiA, of ovip $006^ places IKe earlier ■\jrv.der r\o ols>s!iga-1 iorx io pvipcKsLse. ONE^ or TMB LARQEST STOCK>S IN THC COUIITRY 52 SUMMBR ^T. C¥7^"I7^ T> /^ €iin^^^l\J~^^'^^ Time. Labor and Money. |31!jI1; 13vf31v^ill F. A. Waterman. The Boston Guide, personally conducts parties, 3 Hour Trip 30 Cenls in Historic Boston or Cambridge and Harvard, visiting, showing and quickly explaining interesting and historic places, buildings, museums, etc.; saving weeks of time to strangers- Positively nothing equals these delightful and profitable trips which include visiting important buildings and 5 to 8 mile rides. Parties leave at 9:30 and 2:30 front of Park Street Cliurch. Boston Opposite 122 Tremont St., near Park St. Subway Station, Boston Common lt)inclan^ ^ Stands for Quality and Purity Invigorating and Sustaining Absolute Purity Guaranteed by the Vineland Grape Juice Co. Vineland, N. J. THE MURRAY CO., Sole New England Agents 210 State Street, Boston Smoke TrbMount Cigars For- Sale Everywhere NEW li'ICTIOK KATE DOUGLAS WIGGIN'S New Chronicles of Rebecca "Rebecca is the same likable and lovable girl as ever. It is her good na- ture and geniality, her almost uninterrupted happiness that gives her an unlimited attractive- ness. She is the embodi- ment of actual girlhood. She is as alive as any character can be within the imaginative pages of fiction." Boston Transcript. Illustrated by F. C. Yohn "Certainly one would be compelled to seek far before finding a sheaf of stories so full of vivid character drawing, quaint humor and indi- viduality that springs direct from the soil" Of all Mrs. Wiggin's fiction- al creations there is not one who makes a more winning and winsome appeal to the reader's affections than Rebecca. " Brooklyn Eagle. $1.25 The World's Warrant BY NORAH DAVIS "The originality in plot, the freshness of the background- present-day Alabama— the real attraction of the chief participants in the strange love story, and above all, the strength and boldness in style give The World's PFarrawi a fascination which is felt page by page until the close of the novel. Frontispiece in Color by F. C. Yohn, $1.50 Visitors to Boston are cordially invited to call at our Book Room Houghton, Mifflin & Co. 4 PARK STREET, BOSTON (THE WIGGIN BOOKLET FREE) A Boy*s Vacation Abroad By C. F. KING, JR. Every American will enjoy seeing the sights of Europe through the eyes of Young King. "It Is the very 'kiddishness ' the unaffected simplicity, the genu, ineness of it all, that is charming and convincing."— Z?os^c»n Transcript. **A book that all travelers will \\V.Q.''— Philadelphia Inquirer. "A breezy book full of real boy com- ment, and ending with a boy's glad- ness to be back in Amer- ica."— iCaw - sas City Star. "Inform- ing asa guide book and far more truth- ful." -The North Amer- ican, Phila- delphia. "No ore can read it without feel- ing young. Every page breathes o f the vigor of a healthy whole minded boy" - The Cour- ier Journal, Louisville. "Not a dull page in the book."— Boston Globe. "The whole book has a decidely on-the-spot flavor. The school boy author has provided a thoroughly ingenious ta.\e." —Washington Star. "In spirit, to quote its creator, the book is not only 'all to the merry' but all all right."— C/itcafifo Record-Herald. At all Booksellers or sent postpaid by the publishers. PRICE $1.50. The C. M. Clark Publishing Co., Boston, Mass. Books by Boston Authors Just Out CHRISTY OF RATHGLIN - - By James Riley. An exciting tale of a homeless Irish lad on two continents. "The characters are drawn with skill and acute- ness. Christy tells his own story right from the heart with a genuineness of feeling that cannot fail to exer- cise a fascination upon the reader. " ( The Boston Transcript. ) Illustrated, Price $1.50. A WILDERNESS CRY - - By George E. Day. A strong love story with a lofty moral purpose. "The story possesses a keen interest and is told with sustained vigor." {Philadelphia Press.) Illustrated, Price $1.50. MIDSUMMER MADNESS - - By Amparo Loring. One of Emilia Pardo Bazan's most absorbing romances done into graceful English by a Boston society woman. **A charming little tale, full of Spanish sunshine and warmth and geniality." The Review of Reviews. {Transatlantic Tales.) Illustrated, Price $1 50. THE LIEUTENANT, THE GIRL AND THE VICEROY By Marshall Putnam Thompson. A clean, crisp, cleverly written tale of love and adventures in South America. "A good book to put by for summer reading. It is dramatic and full of action." (Chicago Tribune.) Illustrated, Price $1.50. The C. M. Clark Publishing Co. BOSTON "Name on Every Piece" The Most Popular BON PONS in the World delicious - - Tare - - Wholesome ^''sL 416 Washington Street Four Doors North of Summer Street Soda^ - - - Artificially Cooled in Summer - - - \c es Goldsmith, Silver ^ Co/s M-C-A Ci^ar Jtlivays Satisfies MASON CIGAR COMPANY 69 BROAD STREET BOSTON MANUFACTURERS OF Iparftcr Ibouee ffionquet /r^^^^i.^ an& Star Caale ^ ^ ^ ^ly^i^ FOR SALE AT ALL NEWS STANDS NANTASKET BEACH STEAMBOAT COMPANY=— Rowe's Wharf, .... BOSTON Company's Fleet of Steamers NANTASKET MYLES STANDISH MAYFLOWER SOUTH SHOxRE OLD COLONY Clam Bakes Shore Dinners Surf Bathing Fine Hotels Amusements of all kinds at Paragon Park Afternoon and Evening Concerts by the Celebrated Martland Brockton Band POINTS REACHED BY THIS LINE Hull, Crow Point, Nantasket Beach State Reservation and Historic Plymouth For Time of Trips see Boiton Daily Papers GEO. P. GUSHING. .... Gen'I Mgr. and Treas. GENERAL OFFICES. .... 7 Rowe's Wharf, BOSTON THE WAYSIDE INN Built in 1683 = IMMORTALIZED 3 Y LONGFELLO*'; LOCATED ON THE BOSTON AND WORCHESTER OLD POST ROAD Macadamized the entire distance of forty-four miles MOST HISTORIC TAVERN IN AMERICA Kept for four generations by one family, going down from father to son. "Whom Washington and Lafayette among its guests can number." CENTRAL MASSACHUSETTS DIVISION. BOSTON & MAINE R. R. Raihoad Station. WAYSIDE INN. one and a quarter miles from the INN. Guests met when notified in time, at any train. The finest Automobile run out of Boston. On the main road to Worcester, Springfield, Albany, New York and the West SPECIAL ACCOMMODATIONS FOR TOURING PARTIES LONG DISTANCE TELEPHONE Post Office Address, E. R. Lemon SOUTH SUDBURY, MASS., Landlord CWKCLtR : CASTlESOMOTELBOSIi ?AlTL°i* Vq^:- fci^f.E.Sleeper. CHANDLER ST. Manager. EUROPEAN — PLtAI*-- Boston Hotel Co., Lessees. The only hotel of its size in the world having x PRIVATE BATH WITH EVERY ROOM. An mtercommunicating (free) and long-distance telephone in every room. 50 Single Suites with private bathroom, for one person only, $l.5o iier day. 200 Double Suites, with private bathroom, for two persons, $2 per day. 100 Double Suites (for two). Alcove Chamber and private bathroom, $2.50 per day. 150 Double Suites (for two). Parlor Alcove Chamber and private bathroom, $3 per day. NOTHING HIGHER. BAGGAGE TRANSFERRED FREE. Smoke : : The Old Reliable ^ti Bostonia lOc* Cigar Perfectos Boetonia ponice 5c* Londres F. X. Oberle, Wholesale Manufacturers Boston, MaSS THE HOTEL ESSEX : Boston ^ #7 r r,-^ ^n '^ ^. Directly opposite the South Station on Atlantic Avenue WAITT & BOND Blackstone Cigar During the year 1906 our increased sales ran the largest in our whole business career, being over 3,000,000 cigars ahead of the previous year, and 1,230,125 of this being on our iamous Blackstone Brand. With our present faci.ities, having enlarged our factory, and occupying as we now do the whole square between Stillman and Morton Streets, in front, as well as the rear, we are in a position to keep up with this constantly growing demand. WAITT & BOND, Inc., Mfrs. BOSTON, - - - MASS. BRIGHAM'S Hotel and Restaurant CENTRE OF THE SHOPPING DISTRICT Near GLOBE HOLLIS ST. MAJESTIC COLONIAL TREMONT PARK boston and Keith's theatres 642 and 644 Washington St. Opposite Boylston St., on Site of the ''Old Liberty Tree''' BOSTON, MASS. ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO BOSTON AND The Country Around With Maps and Plans BOSTON JOHN F. MURPHY 1907 zAsk at the Soda Fountain oopy u. DELICIOUS — REFRESHING , t^ ^ DC* GLASS i" S 3 B »> y I J- 1 o rv J t .- »^ i4 1 il next t-> Arlir»vi)on.VI. Ci\urc:i J THE TEACOCK 355 Boylston Street Next to Arlington Street Church The Place to Lunch Seasonable Delicacies Afternoon Tea Delicious Teas and Ices The Place to Dine Table d'Hote Dinner 50 cents Also A La Carte Specialties to Order ^ All are served with the delicacy and good taste that characterizes the best home service : : : ; COPYRIGHT 1907, C. S. HAMMOND & CO., N. Y. CONTENTS. THE PUBLIC LIBRARY .^^''7 The Main Facade, 9; The Entrance, 10; Staircase Decorations, by Chavannes, 12; Corridor Decorations, by Chavannes; "Muses Greet- ■--g the Genius of Enlightenment," 14; Bates Hall, 16; Delivery Room, 21; Edwin A. Abbey's "The Quest of the Holy Grail," 21; Children's Rooms, 26; Ceiling Decorations, by John Elliot, "The Triumph of Time," 27; Lecture Hall, 27; Sargent Hall, 27; Decora- tions by Mr. Sargent, "The Triumph of Religion," 28; Special Libra- ries, 29; Fine Arts Room, 29; Interior Court, 30; Other Libaries, 33. THE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS AND OTHER COLLEC- TIONS 34 The Collection of Casts, 35; The Collection of Paintings in Oil and Water-Colors, 37; The Allston Room, 41; Examples of the English and French Schools, XVIII. and XIX. Centuries, 42; Examples of the Work of Modern Painters, 43; The Print Rooms, 43; Other Museums and Collections, 44. PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS FOR THE PEOPLE. 46 The Common, 48; Shaw Memorial, 51; Public Garden, 51; X'orth End Park, 52; Charlesbank, 54; The Fens, 56; Olmsted Park, 56; Arnold Arboretum, 57; Franklin Park, 57; Marine Park, 58; Metro- politan Park System, 59. OLD BOSTON 64 Old South Meeting House, 64; Old Corner Bookstore, 66; City Hall, 67; Province Court, 67; King's Chapel, 68; Old State House, 70; State Street, 72; Ouincy Market, 73; Faneuil Hall, 74; Hancock Tavern, 76; Marshall Street, 76; X^orth Square, 77; Garden Coui't Street, 77; Old Christ Church, 79; Hull Street, 79; Copp's Hill Bury- ing Ground, SO; Granary Burying Ground, SO; State House, 82; Beacon Hill, 90; Court House, 9L OUTLYING DISTRICTS OF BOSTON 94 East Boston, 94; Charlestown, 94; Brighton, 96; West Roxbury, 9S; Roxbury, 100; Dorchester, 101; South Boston, 102. CAMBRIDGE. HARVARD COLLEGE AND MOUNT AUBURN 103 Cambridge, 103; Harvard College, 105; Mt. Auburn Cemetery, 115. THE HARBOR AND BEACHES •. . . . 117 The North Shore, 117; The South Shore, 121; Plymouth, 126. TROLLEY TRIPS FROM THE HUB 130 I., Along the North Shore to Cape Ann, 131; II., Through the Beautiful Mystic Valley, 135; III., Concord Way, 138; IV., Through Brookline to Chestnut Hill Reservoir, 145; V., Through the X^ewtons to Xorumbega Park and Waltham, 149; VI., To Dedham, 152; VII., Through Ouincy to the South Shore, 154; VIII. , To Pilgrim Land, 156. VISITORS' MEMORANDA 157 Railroad Terminals, 157; Coastwise Steamers, 100; Transatlantic Steamers, 162; Transportation About Town, 163; Hotels, 166; Restau- rants, 167; Theatres and Places of Amusement, 169; Clubs, 170; Churches, 172; Societies, Fraternities and Organizations, 176; Public Buildings, 182; Shoppers' Guide, 182. MR. OPPENHEIM'S NOVELS Dumas classified books under two heads— the entertaining: and the other kind- "At the head of the entertaining writers," says the Pittsburg Gazette-Times, "stands E. Phillips Oppenheim." In THE MALEFACTOR he tells an amazing story of the strange revenge of Sir Wingrave Seton, who suffered imprisonment for a crime he did not commit rather than defend himself at a woman's expense- "It will make the most languid alive with expectant mental activity," says the Chicago Record- Herald. If you have already read "The Maief actor," ask youi bookseller for one of the following: A Prince of Sinners A Maker of History The Master Muinmer Mysterious Mr. »abin The Yellow Crayon Containing 3* ^ 3 C ro < H m > !^ Q n > lA < i^ f i \ 18 GUIDE TO BOSTON. PHOTO COPVRIOHTHD, ibyO, BY CHEMISTRY. Painting by Puvis de Chavannes. vaulted ceiling of the main room is evenly divided by four heavy ribs, which rest upon massive piers of Ohio sandstone. Be- tween are lighter ribs, supported by smaller piers of the same material. Thir- teen arched win- dows, which com- pose the magnificent arcade on Copley Square, let in the east light. At the south end are two more windows. All are filled with grilles of the conventional Roman pattern. A narrow frieze, run- ning clear round the room between the piers, is inscribed in gilt letters with the names of the men most famous in the history of the world for their achieve- ments in art, litera- ture and science. Bookcases of Eng- lish oak, eight feet high, entirely line the east and west walls and the north THE PUBLIC LIBRARY. 19 end of Bates Hall, except where inter- rupted by the sand- stone piers and the mantels. These bookcases contain about nine thousand books of reference, not exclusively en- cyclopaedias and dic- tionaries, but a col- lection of the most useful and popular works in the vari- ous departments of learning. The en- cyclopaedias and dic- tionaries are found at the north end. Visitors, whether or not citizens of Bos- ton, are permitted to use any of these volumes, although none may be takcn from the room. This hall accommodates about three hundred readers. There are thirty -three heavy tables twelve feet long and three and a half broad. Each table is provided with eight chairs. Each table, as well as each chair, is numbered, and by PHOTO COPYRIGHTED, 1897, BY FOSTER BROS. PHYSICS. Painting by Puvis de Chavannes. THE PUBLIC LIBRARY. 21 adding the number of his table and chair to the slip used in taking out books for hall use, the reader may have his vol- umes brought to him directly, without the delay occasioned by waiting for them in the delivery room. The busts ar- ranged about the hall are labelled and need no further ex- planation here. This hall is named in honor of Joshua Bates, a native of Massachusetts, but in after years the head of the London banking house of Baring Brothers. In the early days of the library he gave it $50,000 and $50,000 worth of books. Good judges of architecture have pronounced this hall one of the most impressive rooms in the world. The lobby at the south end of the staircase corridor leads to the delivery room. This lobby is decorated in the manner of Pompeian wall paintings, the work of Mr. Elmer E. Garnsey. The delivery room is sixty-four feet long by thirty-three wide. The floor is tiled with Istrian and red Verona marble. The light comes from windows looking out upon Blagden Street, and from a glass door leading to the roof of the arcade of the interior court. It is here that books are applied for, given out and re- turned. On account of the richness of its decoration this room is the most sumptuous apartment in the Library. The ceiling is heavily raftered and painted in deep tones of blue and purple; the doorways and mantels are heavy and elaborate, and are con- structed of richly colored marbles; the high wainscot is of light- colored oak, and above it along the sides of the room are the luminous colors of the paintings in Mr. Edwin A. Abbey's series of pictures. The subject embodied in this cycle is "The Quest of the Holy Grail." The legend is a plant of the Celtic imagination, which had its roots in pagan folklore. Growing by accretion like the Homeric cycle it was gradually brought into Christian form, though many of the pre-Christian myths still clung to it. It was grafted upon the incidents arising from the patriotic struggle of the Britons against the Saxon invaders. Still later the Saxon conqueror appropriated it, and then it was trans- planted to France and Germany, its growth being affected by each new environment. Out of the accumulation of motives Mr. Abbey has selected those especially related to the San-Grael, 22 GUIDE TO BOSTON. the cup from which the Saviour drank at the Last Supper. Joseph of Arimathea obtained this cup from Pontius Pilate and caught in it the blood that flowed afresh from the sacred side as the body was taken down from the cross. Joseph crossed the seas to Glastonbury, in the West of England, carrying with him the mysterious relic and hiding it in the Castle of the Grail, where it was to remain hidden from mortal eye until a Knight of spotless purity should come in search of it. Then, before its final disappearance it should again bring peace to the earth and become the source of all knowledge and power. Rejecting the Parsifal of the Teutonic version for his stainless Knight. Mr. Abbey has chosen the young British hero. Sir Galahad. In the first of the series an angel appears before the infant Galahad, a descendant of Joseph of Arimathea, who, after the death of his mother, was brought up in a convent of nuns. The angel, float- ing upon widespread wings, bears the Grail, which is visible to the babe, but not to the nun who holds him. The next shows Galahad grown into youth. Clothed in red, he is kneeling in the convent chapel at the close of the all-night vigil which he is re- quired to keep before starting out on his adventures. Launcelot and Bors kneel behind Galahad, fastening his spurs. They are dressed in chain-armor, with low, pointed helmets. The third picture brings Galahad to the Round Table of King Arthur. The vast circular hall, blazing with light, is filled with Knights, each in his appointed seat, and all holding up the hilts of their swords, as if to swear to some great vow. The King, dressed in royal pur- ple and gold, is canopied under a rich baldachin. One seat alone is vacant, the chair of destiny, in which whoever sits must lose himself. Above the table, extending entirely round the hall, is a great ring of angels visible to none in the room except Galahad, who enters, led by a shadowy figure, Joseph of Arimathea. One angel has left the circle and lifts the cloth which has covered the Siege Perilous. Before the Siege appear in golden letters the words, "This is the seat of Galahad." The fourth picture reveals the Knights, who, under the leadership of Galahad, are about to begin the search for the Grail. All are assembled in the cathe- dral to receive the episcopal benediction before setting out on their wanderings. The fifth picture brings the quest as far as THE PUBLIC LIBRARY. 23 the Knight's visit to the castle of the Fisher King, Amfortas, the King of the Grail Castle, who, because he had taken up arms in the cause of an unholy love, lies with all his court under the paralysis of deathless age. The Procession of the Grail passes before the youth's eyes, and had he asked its meaning the cup borne in the procession would have been revealed to him, and the spell would have been lifted from Amfortas, to whom the peace of death would have come. But a savor of worldly wisdom in the youth's mind prompts the answer; the question is not put, and another chance of putting it must be labored for. The next scene is in the woods outside the castle. Here roam the Loathly Lady and two companions, one of them in boy's attire, who urges the others on with a scourge. They, too, are under the spell, doomed against their will to lure Knights to sin and death, until the stainless one shall come. Sir Galahad has come and failed; and, as he kneels in an attitude of contrition, they assail him with jeers and curses. In the next picture his active pen- ance has begun. Single-handed, he meets the onslaught of the seven Knights of the Deadly Sins, who keep the Virtues im- prisoned. His victory opens the prison gates; we see him next receiving the keys from the hand of a monk who blesses him. The following picture records his reception by the Virtues, a long line of beautiful maidens, of whom those nearest to him touch their hands to his. In the next he has wedded Blanche- fleur and is leaving her, his love and hers still a maiden one, to pursue the Quest. Again he visits Amfortas, this time to remove the spell; and the old King is represented dying in his arms, while over them floats the Angel of the Grail, beckoning the youth to further wandering. In the picture which follows he is setting forth, without his coat of mail, for the land is once more at peace and the people, kneeling and standing, bless him as he goes. The Quest takes him across the sea, and we find him kneeling in the boat, which the Grail, borne by an angel at the prow, pilots to Sarras. A view of the little city, crowning a rocky eminence, is shown, and finally the end is come. Sir Gala- had, now King of Sarras, consecrates a sacred place upon a hill and builds a golden tree. When its beautification is completed, Joseph appears with the Grail amid a company of angels. The THE FRIEZE O Painting by PROPHETS. Sargent. 26 GUIDE TO BOSTON. crown, sceptre and robe fall from the youth, and as he lifts up his face in adora- tion, it is as the face of a child in its abso- lute unconsciousness of sin. The lobby at the north end of the staircase corridor was decorated by Mr. Joseph Lindon Smith, of Boston. The subject is Ven- ice, at the height of her glory. From this lobby one enters the chil- dren's rooms, which are among the most interesting in the Library. About four thousand vol- umes are shelved along the walls, which the children may look over and choose from at their pleasure without having to ask permission of any one. The books include the better class of "juveniles," boys' and girls' fiction, and books of travel and adventure. Large tables are provided at which the children may sit and read. On the wall of the first room hang four documents of unusual interest — the Dec- laration of Independence, the Constitution of the United States, the Articles of Confederation, and the Address to the King, all reprints of the originals, but followed by genuine autographs of the men who signed them. Here is also one of the thirteen offi- cial broadsides of the Declaration, issued immediately after its adoption to each of the thirteen original States. The second children's room is a general reference reading-room, with a refer- ENTRANCE TO THE CHILDREN'S ROOM. THE PUBLIC LIBRARY. 27 ence library, including maps, photographs, etc., useful to children in their school work. In the gallery of this room is a Kindergar- ten library for teachers. Cards are not issued to children under ten, but any boy or girl, no matter how young, is welcome to take any of the books from the shelves for use in the rooms. The ceiling decoration of this room is the creation of John Elliot, and is entitled "The Triumph of Time." The painting con- tains thirteen winged figures. The twelve female figures repre- sent the Hours, and the one male figure, Time. The Christian Centuries are typified by twenty horses arranged in five rows, of four each. In each row the two centre horses are side by side, and between these and the outer horses are two winged female figures representing Hours. On either side of the car, in which is the figure of Time, are the Hours of Life and Death. Seen from before the door of the children's room the design begins in the neighborhood of the nearer left-hand corner, and describes a semi-circle, with a downward sweep over an effect of clouds, back to the left again, to a point about two-thirds across the canvas, and culminates in a disk, the sun, before which are the leading horse and the figure typifying the Twentieth Century. In the nearer right-hand corner is a crescent moon with a full disk faintly showing. The decoration is divided in the centre by a beam, but notwithstanding this division, the composition is consecutive. The room beyond the second children's room is the Lecture Hall. Under the auspices of the Trustees a course of free lec- tures is given here each year. Lectures are given occasionally under the auspices of some of the local art clubs. The third floor is reached from the Venetian lobby by a flight of stairs, open to the hall above, leading between the wall of Bates Hall, and of the staircase corridor. The third floor is de- voted to the special libraries. The rooms and corridors in which they are shelved are approached through a long, high gallery, called Sargent Hall, after the painter who has undertaken to decorate its walls. Sargent Hall is in about the same proportions of length, breadth, and height as Bates Hall, though much smaller. It is eighty-four feet long, twenty-three wide, and twenty-six high. GUIDE TO BOSTON. THE LUxXETTE. Painting by John S. Sargent. When the decorations of Sargent Hall are completed they will, in the words of Mr. Sargent, represent "The Triumph of Religion — a mural decoration illustrating certain stages of Jewish and Christian history." Two sections are now in place, each con- sisting of a lunette, a frieze and a section of the ceiling. The first section is at the northerly end of the hall. On the rib be- tween the lunette and the arch is inscribed the text of the subject, condensed from verses 21-45 o^ the io6th Psalm. In the ceiling the gods of polytheism and idolatry are depicted, and mingling with the powers of evil are also the symbols of the kindly forces of nature which these gods typified in the minds of their votaries; which forces to some extent beautified even the worst forms of idolatry. The goddess Neith, whose form underlies the whole, typifies the forces which first aroused the religious craving of the human heart. In the frieze, which has been compared "to a Greek chorus interpreting and supporting the movement of a great drama," are the Hebrew Prophets, the exponents of monotheism, looking to the true and unseen God for guidance and inspiration. In the lunette is illustrated the victory of monotheism over polytheism. The Jews, fallen from their ancient faith, are crushed beneath Egyptian and Assyrian tyranny, their hands are raised in supplication for help, and THE PUBLIC LIBRARY. 29 the mighty arms of Jehovah restrain the scourge of Pharaoh and the threatened blow of the Assyrian. The second section of the decorations is on the opposite end of the corridor, and the theme is the "Dogma of Religion." The dying Christ, on a huge golden crucifix, stands out in heavy relief in the centre of the painting. On either side of him, bowed in despair, are Adam and Eve, seemingly bound to the pitiful figure in the centre. Directly above the crucifix is the inscription, "Remissa Sunt Peccata," or "the sins of the world have been remitted." In the lunette are represented the three persons of the Holy Trinity in different attitudes. In the frieze below the cross are eight angels, bearing the instruments of the Passion and other sacramental symbols. Over this frieze is a Latin inscription, the translation of which is, "The maker of man made man and his redeemer. Incarnate I redeem the body; God, I redeem the soul." Of the special libraries, that devoted to music contains eight thousand volumes. Here are also found all the leading American and foreign musical magazines and periodicals. It is the largest and most complete musical library in this country. In the Barton Library are the Barton, Barlow, Prince, Lewis and Tick- nor collections. Most important of all the special collections is the library of John Adams, second President of the United States, bequeathed by him to his native town of Quincy, and now in the Boston Public Library for safe keeping. The Library of the Boston Browning Society, given to the Boston Public Library; the Longfellow Memorial collection; the Whitman collection, and the Thayer collection of extra illustrated books, formed by four sisters, and given or bequeathed at various times during a period of years, are among the special collections. The Library is also the custodian of the Library of the American Sta- tistical Association, a valuable statistical library; the Codman collection of books on landscape gardening and architecture; and a fine collection of library maps. The fine arts room contains over ten thousand photographs of works of art from all over the world. This collection is kept in dust-proof cases, and the photographs are used as references in connection with the numerous works on art. In the south 30 GUIDE TO BOSTON. corridor, which is an extension of the fine arts room proper, are a number of tables and desks with accommodations for drawing and sketching for the use of art students. The walls of the fine arts room are covered with interesting colored photographs, rare plates, etc., which are frequently changed. Above the special library floor is a small room where photographs may be made from plates or manuscripts. The interior court, which is one of the attractive features of the Library, may be reached from either of the entrance hall corri- dors. In the centre of a well-kept grass plot is a fountain. The walls are of a yellowish-gray brick and Milford granite. The wall of the grand staircase projects into the court, and around the other three walls runs a charming arcaded promenade, the arches, columns and cornice of white marble, over which is a marble parapet. Along the wail are low oak benches, where, on i^^i^ste^. ^-w^m ^^■■pR^H Ms.^::'ai| ■ 1 fPffiiS^p-^'^ ii^|j??5^ 1^1 WBm B5' f M-*MikMMl Jf 1 1^- ^msmisspf^ ^n EEi? ^ AN EXHIBITION OF PHOTOGRAPHS IN THE FINE ARTS ROOM. BATES HALL. 32 GUIDE TO BOSTON. warm days, one may sit and read, instead of in the regular read- ing rooms. It must be borne in mind that this structure represents onl}'- a portion (though, of course, the principal portion) of a great library system, covering the whole city of Boston. The system comprises the central library on Copley Square, just described, THE INTERIOR COURT. containing about 800,000 volumes; ten branch libraries, with permanent collections of books; twenty delivery stations, of which seven are reading-rooms, and thirty-one schools are sup- plied with books. The Library is open to the public from nine o'clock in the morning on week-days, and two in the afternoon on Sundays, until nine o'clock in the evening during the summer, and until THE PUBLIC LIBRARY. 33 ten during the colder months. Books are not issued, however, after nine, the extra winter hour being intended merely as a con- venience to those reading and studying in the building. OTHER LIBRARIES. The Boston Atheneum Library, in the Atheneum Building at 10^ Beacon Street, belongs to a private society. While the right to use this library is confined to the shareholders and their families, great courtesy is shown to strangers and scholars who may wish to consult its shelves. The library contains about 200,000 volumes, many of which are rare and valuable. One of its interesting features is a large portion of George Washington's library. The Boston Medical Library Association has its collection of 20,000 volumes and 12,000 pamphlets housed at 19 Boylston Place. The Congregational Library of 45,000 books and 75,000 pam- phlets is to be found in the Congregational Building at 14 Beacon Street. The General Theological Library at 53 Mount Vernon Street has nearly 18,000 volumes. The library of the Massachusetts Historical Society, in the society's fine building at the corner of Boylston Street and the Fenway. It contains about 50,000 volumes, 100,000 pamphlets, and many valuable manuscripts. The library of the New England Historic-Genealogical So- ciety at 18 Somerset Street is open to the public, and is con- venient for persons hunting up their genealogies. It contains 25,000 volumes and 100,000 pamphlets. The Natural History Museum Library, in the building of the Boston Natural History Society, Boylston Street, corner of Berkeley, contains about 25,000 volumes. The State Library of Massachusetts occupies quarters in the State House. THE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS, AND OTHER COLLECTIONS. The Boston Museum of Fine Arts is centrally located in Cop- ley Square, just southeast of Trinity Church. It is open every week-day, except Mon- day, from 9 A. M. to sun- set; on Monday, from 12 M. to sunset; on Sunday, from I P. M. to sunset. Admission is free on Sat- urdays and Sundays. On other days an admission fee of 25 cents is charged. On pay days the smaller number of visitors is an advantage not to be over- looked. The Museum is a private corporation, which has been supported entire- ly by the generosity of its friends. The only help it has received from State or city is the land on which the building stands. Next to the Metropolitan Muse- um in New York it is the best equipped art museum in America. It is possible in this guide to indicate only in a DISKOBOLOS. After Myron. 34 THE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS AND OTHER COLLECTIONS. 35 very general way the scope of the collections. The pictures and other objects are numbered, and many of them are inscribed, but to enjoy the collection thoroughly visitors should purchase the catalogues which are sold in the entrance hall. The first floor is devoted to the collection of casts, and these are arranged in very nearly chronological order. There are about eight hundred of these casts, illustrating the history of art from 4,000 years B. C, through Egyptian, Assyrian, Persian, Greek, Roman, Mediaeval and Renaissance periods. The floor plans accompanying this article will enable the visitor to locate different groups and collections, and in passing from room to room he may choose the route which will unfold to him the vari- ous phases of the development and decline of classical sculpture. The tour of the first floor should begin at the right side of the entrance hall and continue through the rooms devoted to Egyp- IN THE CORRIDOR, 36 GUIDE TO BOSTON. tian and Assyrian sculpture, the first, second and third Greek rooms, the room of Egyptian Antiquities to the left of the third Greek room, the room devoted to busts and small bronzes (Greek and Roman), to the Parthenon room. The different Greek rooms show the course of Greek sculpture from its crude beginnings through every period of growth, until, in the Parthenon room, may be studied the highest development of that art. In the Parthenon Room No. 422 is a model of the Akropolis, in its pres- ent condition, which shows not only the principal monuments, but all the foundations of other buildings brought to light during the recent investigations, and also the grottoes and other fea- tures of the rock outside the walls. The principal buildings are indicated by inscriptions. After studying this plan of the Akro- polis one is betterpreparedto study the fragments of the glorious Temple of Athena and the model of the southwest corner of PLAN OF THE FIRST ARRANGEMENT FLOOR. SHOWING THF OF THE CASTS. THE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS AND OTHER COLLECTIONS. 37 this temple on a scale of one-tenth, which stands in the corridor directly opposite one of the doors of this room. The casts of the Erechtheion should be studied immediately after the Parthenon. These casts were placed in the Hall of the jNIaidens, because it was the only room of sufficient height to admit the porch of the Maidens. Chronologically these details belong to the period immediately following that of the Parthenon sculptures. As the Parthenon symbolizes the dignity and grandeur of Greek archi- tecture, so the Erechtheion illustrates its capacity for grace and refinement. Having finished an inspection of the Erechtheion, a return should be made to the corridor and the tour resumed. The room devoted to modern sculpture brings us again to the entrance hall, from which we ascend to the upper floor. The second floor is devoted to collections of paintings in oil and water colors, to prints, illuminated books, pottery, porcelain, glass, coins, metal work, wood carving, arms and textiles. The CORRIDOR JAPANESE POTTERY, KAKEMONOS, SCREENS TEXTILE GALLERY COIN ROOM METAL ROOM WOOD I LAWRENCE CARVING, ARMS, ETC. I ROOM I I POTTERY, PORCELAIN, GLASS PLAN OF THE SECOND FLOOR. 38 GUIDE TO BOSTON. excellent catalogues sold by the Museum are indispensable to a satisfactory inspection of the collection. It is proposed here to indicate in a general way some of the pictures which may be seen in a limited time by those who do not care for more than a passing glimpse of the other art treasures here housed. The Museum is especially strong in its pictures by early American artists, and these are sure to draw many visitors who are not especially interested in the other fine collections. From the right, after ascending the stairs, one enters the first picture gallery. Here will be found examples of the early Italian, Spanish, Flemish and Dutch painters. Among the num- bers which are especially worthy of note may be mentioned: No 30, "The Virgin and Child with St. John," by Sandro Botticelli. Of this picture a critic writes: "A work of the first class by this so unequal master. The forms have something grand about them. The expression of the heads is that of a deep and mysterious melancholy; the execution is of great decision and mastery, and the whole in excellent keeping." No. 49, A Donor and his two patron saints, Peter with the keys, Paul with a sword. German school of the first half of the sixteenth century. Attributed to Hans Holbein the younger. This picture was bought at Leipsic, where it had been in the possession of one family for a couple of centuries, by a young American, who took it to Berlin and submitted it to the judgment of an expert, by whom it was pronounced to be an original by Holbein. No. 52, "The Usurer," by Gabriel Metsu, In a sombre room a widow hands a parchment, with seals attached, to an old man. A little basket holding papers hangs upon her left arm, and in her right hand she holds a handkerchief with which she dries her tears. The old man, seated before a table covered with a red- striped cloth and heaped up with money and precious objects, wears a red cap. In his left hand he holds a piece of money, which he was preparing to weigh in the scales when interrupted by the entrance of the woman. He remains untouched by the despair which she exhibits. On the left a green curtain. No. 56, "The Skirt of the Forest," by Jacob Van Ruysdael. A landscape full of grandeur, and executed in the most skilful man- THE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS AND OTHER COLLECTIONS. 39 ner. A marsh extends over all the foreground and in the distance toward the right, enclosed by banks covered with luxuriant vege- tation. The forest begins on the left, and the foliage of the PHOTO BY COOLIDGE. THE ATHENEUM PORTRAIT OF GEORGE WASHINGTON, By Gilbert Stuart. beech, tinged with yellow by the rays of the sun, detaches itselt from the darker foliage of the oak and alders. A man is fishing with a rod, and some ducks swim in the water filled with snags and weeds. GUIDE TO BOSTON. Trinity Church. Museum oi COPLE No. 59, "Marriage of St. Catherine," with the Infant Christ, by Peter Paul Rubens. This picture was a study for the great altar-piece in the Church of the Augustinians, Antwerp. Portraits of the artist and members of his household are introduced. The painting is fresh, well preserved, and bears unquestionable evi- dence of the master's hand throughout. No. 75, "The Interior of a Butcher's Shop," by David Teniers. In the foreground at the right, a young and pretty girl is cleaning the lungs and liver of an enormous ox suspended at the centre of the picture. She is seen in profile turned to the right, and look- ing in the opposite direction to watch a dog who is drinking the blood which has fallen into a pan placed under the ox. The butcher is passing out by a door in the background on the right, where are seen, near a fireplace, the master of the house and a servant. The head of the animal is placed upon a bench. On the left the hide is thrown in a heap upon the floor, and the tongue is hung upon the wall. A wild duck, a cabbage leaf, and some household utensils complete this strikingly realistic picture, in which Teniers shows his skill in reproducing everything with that scrupulous exactitude and facility of execution, thai delicacy, THE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS AND OTHER COLLECTIONS. 4! s. \RE. Boston Public Library and that power of harmony which distinguish him in such a high degree. This vigorous painting — model of finished work — was etched by the master himself. Signed in full below at the right. The second gallery, known as the Allston Room, is filled with the works of early American painters. Nos. loi to 124 are by Washington Allston; Nos. 126 to 139 are works by Gilbert Stuart. The most famous of these pictures are known as the Atheneum portraits of George and Martha Washington. They were painted from life, in 1796, and bought after Stuart's death, of his widow, and presented to the Boston Atheneum. Nos. 147-164 are by the historical and portrait painter John Singleton Copley. No. 150 is a portrait of the artist and his family. The artist stands behind. Before him is Air. Richard Clarke, father of Mrs. Copley, who, seated on a sofa, caresses her son, John, the future Lord Lyndhurst, three times Lord Chan- cellor of England. In front stands her daughter, Elizabeth, after- ward ]\Irs. Gardiner Greene. Nos. 168 and 169 are by John Smibert. Nos. 172-177 are the works of John Trumbull. No, 173 is his portrait of Alexander Hamilton. GUIDE TO BOSTON. ■ ■B^S wr N^^^I^^^^' ^^te.i_ ^_jflBP^^^^I ^'^Bl' '* ' "nt^r^ar aP^HH^^'^SL^il 1^ m ^^m IvL ^ .AJ ^m ^.Sw' ^^^^ '^^''^Ik ' .-'^H w ^^ ^I^B Ali/m ?^^M ■W ^H 1^ '9 4*' ^^^^^^^K l\ /i^hL .^bhSs 1 B ^ ' .^1 rl ^^B ^ \ ■.^tf^m m. I^^R - ''^■^^H }'■ ^Hk I ^^^^1 1 l^^^^^^H '"^^^^^^^H ^^■H ^^^^^^H 1 A. Healy, and 191, portrait PHOTO PY COOLIDGE. "ISABELLA AND THE POT OF BASIL. Painting by John W. Alexander. Other pictures worthy of note in this room are No. 180, portrait of John Quincy Adams, by William Page; No. 182, portrait of N. P. Willis, by Frank Alexander; No. 184, portrait of Washing- ton, by Rembrandt Peale; No. 185, Head of Washington, by Charles W. Peale; No. 188, portrait of Longfellow, by G. P. No. of Charles Sumner, by William Willard. In the third pic- ture gallery are ex- amples of the Eng- lish and French Schools, XVIII. and XIX. centuries. Among the most fa- mous pictures here are: No. 200, "The Slave Ship," and No. 201, "Mouth of the Seine," by J. M. W. Turner; Nos. 207 and 208, by John Consta- ble; Nos. 214 to 217, by Sir Joshua Rey- nolds, and No. 238, portrait of Franklin, THE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS AND OTHER COLLECTIONS. 4;; by Joseph Siffrein Duplessis. In the fourth and fifth picture galleries are examples of the work of many mod- ern painters. No. 251, "Jessica," by D. M. Bunker; No. 255, "The Blacksmith," and No. 256, "Little Rose," by James Mc- Neill Whistler; No. 266, Landscape, cows drinking at a pool, by Theodore Rousseau; No. 268, Landscape with sheep, by Constant Troyon; No. 292, The Lookout, "All's Well," by Winslow Homer — awarded a gold medal at the Paris Exposition, 1900; No. 301, "The Red Hat," and 302, "The Quartet," by W^illiam Babcock; No. 305, "The Lair of the Sea Serpent," by Elihu Vedder; No. 328, "The Halt at the Fountain," by Adolph Schreyer; Nos. 340-346 by Jean Baptiste Corot; "Isabella and the Pot of Basil," by John W. Alexander; No. 376, "The Shepherdess," No. 2)11, portrait of himself, and No. 378, "Home- stead at Greville," by Jean Francois Millet; No. 391, "Arethusa," by George Fuller; No. 402, "The Rising Storm," by George Inness, and many others will be found worthy of study. In the southern corridor one will notice: No. 415, "By the Riverside," by Henri Lerolle, considered one of the most beautiful pictures in the Museum; No. 417, "The Supper at Emmaus," by Leon Lehr- mitte, and No. 427, "Soli- tude," by Robert Barrett Browning. The print rooms and the water-color room contain many treasures. In the corridor and in the Japan- ese Room, Japanese pot- photo copyrighted. iSg?, by foster BROS. tery. Kakemono, screens "'BY THE RIVERSIDE." and many objects of art Painting by Henri Lerolle. 44 GUIDE TO BOSTON. will delight the visitor. There are rare specimens of tapestry in the halls and in the textile gallery. In the room devoted to pot- tery and porcelain will be found examples of most of the famous wares. The wood-carving, the arms and armor, the coins and metal work are all interesting, but they are too numerous to re- ceive treatment here. A new home for the Museum of Fine Arts is being erected between The Fenway and Huntington Avenue, near Ruggles Street, where twelve acres of land have been secured for the purpose. The situation is an ideal one and the building now to be erected is less than half of a comprehensive scheme for a great museum to cover the whole area, with wide lawns separat- ing it from the surrounding streets, and great garden courts and other open spaces admitting ample light and air to the interior. The building will contain a group of small distinct museums under one roof. Each of these will represent the art of one race or civilization and will be separated from every other by stately halls, quiet corridors or loggias with outlooks. The light in all the rooms will be so ample and so well directed that every object in every part will be perfectly seen. OTHER MUSEUMS AND COLLECTIONS. Boston Atheneum, lo Beacon Street. — In the vestibule and staircase of the Atheneum Building is a collection of paintings and statuary which is open to visitors on any week-day without charge. Bunker Hill Museum, at the base of Bunker Hill Monument. — (See "Old Boston.") Botanical Garden, Cambridge. — This large collection of plants and flowers is open to the public without charge. Boston Natural History Museum. — This fine collection of birds, fossils, fishes, skeletons, and other interesting zoological specimens is in the building of the Natural History Society, corner of Boylston and Berkeley streets. It is open from 9 A. M. to 5 P. M. On Wednesdays and Saturdays it is free. On other days an admission of 25 cents is charged. THE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS AND OTHER COLLECTIONS. 45 Faneuil Hall Collection of Historical Paintings is open to visitors every da3% except Sunday, from 9 A. j\I. to 4 P. M. — See Faneuil Hall, page 74. Historic Genealogical Collection, 18 Somerset Street. — At the rooms of the New England Historic-Genealogical Society is quite a collection of old engravings, prints and books. The rooms are open to the public, without charge, every week-day from 9 A. M. to 5 P. ^I., excep": Saturdays, when the hours are from 9 A. M. to I P. M. Massachusetts Historical Museum, Boylston Street and Fen- way. — A rare collection of histoiic relics. Among the curiosities are the swords of Sir William Pepperell, Miles Standish and Colonel Prescott, a chair brought over in the Mayflower, diary of Judge Sewall, and portraits of Governors Winthrop, Endicott and Winslow. Open from 9 A. M. to 5 P. M. Admission free. Museum (Agassiz) of Comparative Zoology, Oxford Street. Cambridge. — This museum belongs to Harvard College. It has no equal in America. Open to visitors every week-day from 9 A. M. to 5 P. M. Admission free. Old South Museum. — In the Old South Church, corner of Milk and Washington streets, is a valuable collection of Revo- lutionary and historical relics. Open on week-days from 9 A. M. to 6 P. M. Admission 25 cents. (See Old South Meeting-House,' page 64.) Old State House Collection, Washington, corner of State Street. — This collection of paintings and relics is in the upper rooms of the Old State House. It is under the control of the Bostonian Society. Open every day, except Sunday. Admission free. Peabody Museum of American Archaeology and Ethnology, Cambridge. This museum was founded by George Peabody. It is devoted to the preservation and collection of everything re- lating to the aboriginal, prehistoric human life on this continent. Here may be seen a great variety of implements and ornaments, models of aboriginal houses, models of cliff-dwellers' houses, and of the ruined temples of Central America. Open every week-day from 9 A. M. to 5 P. M. Admission free. PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS FOR THE PEOPLE. Boston may be said to be trebly blest in the possession of many parks and playgrounds. Three distinct organizations pro- vide and regulate those reservations within and without the city which are so potent a factor in the physical, aesthetic and moral well-being of the community. First in order of consideration we must place the Common and Public Garden, which, with some smaller plots of ground, are under the supervision of the Public Grounds Department of the city. In the second place we must consider the magnificent series of boulevards and parks of the Boston Public Parks System, which, beginning with the North End Park, at the extreme northern limit of the city, is continued almost uninterruptedly to the south, through Charles- bank, the Fens, Olmsted Park, the Arboretum, Franklin Park and Columbia Road to Marine Park, on the southeast. Stretch- ing from the Public Garden to the Fens is Commonwealth Avenue, renowned for its stately homes, and justly considered one of the finest boulevards in the world. Thus encircled by a chain of loveliness which is unequalled by the park reservations of any other city of corresponding size in America, or in the world, it speaks eloquently of the civic pride, the wise recogni- tion of future needs, and the executive ability of the citizens of Greater Boston, that in 1893 another vast system of parks was projected, and that it has been carried far on the way to com- pletion. This last system is known as the Metropolitan System. In general plan it resembles the Boston Parks System, In its en- circling sweep it includes thirty-nine towns and cities, and so supplements and extends the Boston system, and on so vast a scale that seashore, lofty hills, gentle little rivers, dense forests 46 48 GUIDE TO BOSTON. and sunny glades have been secured from the encroachments of future urban growth, and dedicated to the people for all time. You cannot be many hours in Boston without making the acquaintance of The Common, so rich in traditions of bygone days, so full of charm and restfulness, lying in the very centre of the great modern city. Let us escape from the hurrying throng of shoppers on Tremont Street, and enter one of the shady paths leading up the hill. As we stop and look across the frog pond toward the Soldiers' Monument we forget everything in the history of the Common that was unpleasant, and we don't care whether the fathers were far-sighted when they set this ground apart for public use, or were thinking only of their own immediate needs. The fathers builded better than they knew, and unborn generations will rise up to bless them, as we do to- day, for this green and quiet spot which the greed of com- merce must never touch. Should you see the Common for the first time when winter's magic touch has clothed it all in white, you will not mind the frosty air, as you stand at the head of "the long path," im- mortalized by the autocrat and his gentle schoolmistress, which runs from Joy Street southward to Boylston Street. If it happens to be near the sunset hour, so much the better. The delicate tracery of the trees against the evening sky, the distant outline of buildings, softened and idealized by the mists of ap- proaching night, the snowy foreground, the human element manifest in the home-going crowds, or, better still, in the merry youngsters skating on the pond, and your mind filled with the sense of all that has made, that still makes, this ground hal- lowed — this surely will repay you and make you glad that you have seen the Common in winter. The Common contains forty-eight acres. It was laid out be- fore 1640 as a training field, and for the feeding of cattle, and after that time no more land was granted from it. Here stood the granary, almshouse, gunhouse, whipping post and pillory. As early as 1659 it was used as a place for executing criminals, Quakers, Indians, prisoners of war, and those convicted of arson and robbery. In 1745 the forces for the attack on Louisburg were mustered here. In 1759 the army of Lord Amherst en- PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS FOR THE PEOPLE. 49 camped here previous to the march to Canada. In 1775-76 the Common was a fortified camp, with batteries and 1,700 British soldiers. Rochambeau's army was assembled here, and Wash- ington's soldiers were also paraded and quartered on the Com- mon after the siege of Boston. From the first settlement of the town all important celebrations, parades and festivities were held ^ nr\-^*S^;:^^^; REVIEW ON THE COMMON OF THE BOSTON SCHOOL BOYS' PARADE. here. The Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company keep up the old-time custom, and once a year, at least, make the parade- ground resplendent with the pomp and glitter of their trappings. Young Americans of the present also contribute to the functions here celebrated, and the schoolboys' annual parade is a sight not to be forgotten. In summer, what is known as the Charles Street Mall is given over to the children as a play- 60 GUIDE TO BOSTON. EQUESTRIAN STATUE OF GEORGE WASHINGTON, IN PUBLIC GARDEN. By Thomas Ball. ground. Here also on Sundays are held the outdoor meetings of va- rious religious and other itinerants, and the scat- tered groups of open- mouthed listeners offer many a study in interest- ing human nature. The Common contains the Gardner Brewer Foun- tain and several other drinking fountains, some of which are supplied with ice during the sum- mer. Of the monuments, the more noteworthy are the Soldiers' and Sailors* Monument, erected 1871- 1877 from Martin Mil- more's design. It is on the summit of Flagstaff Hill. The inscription, written by President Eliot, of Harvard, reads: "To the Men of Boston Who Died for Their Country on Land and Sea in the War Which Kept the Union Whole, Destroyed Slavery, and Maintained the Consti- tution, the Grateful City Has Built This Monument that Their Example May Speak to Coming Generations." The monument by Robert Kraus, which commemorates the "Boston Massacre of 1770," stands near the Tremont Street Mall, between the West Street gate and Boylston Street. On the front of the granite shaft is a figure typifying "Revolution Break- ing the Chains." The bas-relief on the base represents the scene PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS FOR THE PEOPLE. 5] of the massacre as it was presented in an old plate published in London, with a "Short Narrative." On one corner of the relief are these words: "From that Moment We May Date the Severance of the British Empire."— Daniel Webster. On the shaft are the names of the victims of the massacre. The Shaw Memorial, facing the State House at the Beacon and Park streets corner of the Common, is the work of Mr. Augustus St. Gaudens, of New^ York. It is a monument to Colonel Robert Gould Shaw, the commander of the first Massachusetts regiment of colored men serving in the Civil War, and his regiment, the Fifty-fourth Regiment of Infantry of Massachusetts. The bronze group enclosed by the stone canopy is a life-size representation of Colonel Shaw mounted and riding into action with a column of his colored troops. Colonel Shaw was killed while leading the assault on Fort Wagner, South Carolina, July i8, 1863. "Right in the van on the red ramparts' slippery swell, \\'ith heart that beat a charge he fell. Forward, as fits a man. But the high soul burns on to light men's feet, Where death for noble ends makes dying sweet." On the Boylston Street side of the Common is the old Central Burying-Ground, dating from 1756. This ground was disturbed in 1846. when the Boylston Street ]\Iall was made, and again in 1895-98, when the Subway was under construction. Some officers and soldiers of the Revolutionary War were buried here, and many of the tombs were built by wealthy Bostonians. The Public Garden, containing nearly twenty-five acres, is liberally maintained by the cit3\ Here are many varieties of trees and shrubs, and in the season of flowers thousands of bedded plants are displayed. From the time when the first crocuses of earl}^ spring dot the brown earth with their delicate hues a never-ceasing though ever-changing beauty show is here going on, until, at last, the stately chrysanthemums herald the approach of autumn. The different statues in the Public Garden bear inscriptions which render it unnecessary to refer to them at length. No one should leave the garden without giving some time to a contemplation of Ball's equestrian statue of Washing- ton, which stands near the Arlington Street entrance. It ranks 52 GUIDE TO BOSTON. as one of the few great equestrian statues of the world. It is so favorably placed that it may be studied to advantage. THE BOSTON PUBLIC PARKS SYSTEM. The Common and Public Garden remained the only parks worthy of mention until about 1880. The movement, beginning as early as 1869, for the establishment of parks adequate to the AGASSIZ BRIDGE, THE FENS. Designed oy H. H. Richardson. city's needs, gathered force and influence, which finally resulted in the necessary legislation and the appointment of the Boston Park Commissioners. Under the management of this board, the present system of parks was projected and developed. In North End Park, at the northern end of the city, are bath- ing-houses for men and women, v^ith a pier extension into the bay, from the women's bath-house, of 322 feet, and from the men's bath-house, on the opposite side of the park, the pier ex- tends 560 feet into the bay. Of these piers the women's is single-decked and canopy-covered, and the msn's double-decked, the upper deck being open. The women's bath-house contains 150 bathing-rooms, laundry and laundry machinery, sanitary and ^iy-*l il 54 GUIDE TO BOSTON. heating arrangements. A band-stand for open-air con- certs is one of the features of this place. This park is a boon to the dense resident population for whose benefit it was created. Directly across Commercial Street are Copp's Hill Terraces. Like the North End Park they afiford a pleasant and much-needed breathing-place for those living near. On warm afternoons women and children from the hot tenement houses fill the walks and benches, and revel in fresh air and sunshine. The Charlesbank, upon the Charles River border of the city, was provided near one of the poorest and most densely settled districts by the demolition of a large number of old wooden buildings and the reclamation of a tract of river-bottom land. It is situated within easy reach of a large population in a congested part of the city. Its importance can hardly be overestimated, and its broad promenade commands a fine view of the Charles River. Between the areas de- voted to gymnastic exercises there is a considerable area of greensward, bearing trees and shrubbery about its borders, which are arranged to screen the houses and traffic of the streets near at hand from the water-side p r o m e- nade, as well as to form an agreeable ele- ment in the play- ground. Boating fa- cilities are provided BALANCED ROCK, FRANKLIN PARK. along the water front, 5G GITTDF, TO BOSTON,. and in the wincer season the men's running track is flooded for skating. The city provides free instruction in gymnastics at both the men's and women's gymnasia, as well as free shower baths and lockers. Yearly over 70,000 women and girls and nearly 200,000 men and boys make use of the gymnastic facilities which are afforded. An ideal way of seeing the other parks of the Boston City System in a limited time is to take a hansom cab and drive out Commonwealth Avenue, lined with stately homes, and marked here and there by statues of distinguished men, to The Fens. At the entrance is Miss Whitney's statue of Leif Ericson, the Northman who discovered America. Near the south end of The Fenway, facing the city, may be seen the main building of Simmons College. This institution was established under the will of the late John Simmons of Boston as an institution in which might be given instruction in such branches of art, science, and industry as would best enable women to earn an independent livelihood. The dormitories will be seen about half a mile farther on between Bellevue and Brookline Avenues. The further end of the Fens affords wide expanses of meadows, trees, and shrub-planted slopes. Of the bridges which span the waterway, the stone Boylston Street bridge was designed by the late H. H. Richardson. Through the Fens we follow the park- way, which under various names — as Audubon Road, Fenway, Riverway, Jamaicaway and Arborway — winds through Long- wood and Brookline. The section of parkway lying between Tremont Street and Arborway is now known as Olmsted Park. It is one of the loveliest stretches of landscape in the park system. Jamaica Pond covers seventy acres and affords a delightful place for boat- ing in the summer and for skating in the winter. The grounds are laid out in walks and drives, and shelters are provided. The views across the water, with its gently curving, wooded shores, are charming, and worth traveling far to enjoy. And all this beauty is within a half-hour's drive of the centre of the city. Olmsted Park may also be reached by taking the electric cars for Jamaica Plain, and leaving the cars at Centre and Poud PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS FOR THE PEORLE. 57 Streets. A short walk to the west on Pond Street brings one to the park. But to return to our drive. Continuing southward through the Arborway we reach the Arnold Arboretum, containing, probably, one of the finest collections of trees, plants and shrubs in the world. The park covers an area of 155 acres, has about two miles of driveways and four miles of walks. The trees cultivated here are so planted and cared for as to assure the most favorable de- velopment through all stages of their growth, thus facilitating the study of their characteristics, while the most beautiful fea- tures of the natural forest, within the enclosure, have been pre- served. The buildings of the Bussey Institution, including the Bussey Museum, which contains the herbarium and specimens of various woods, are at the southeast end of the park. Having viewed the beauties of the Arboretum, let us continue our drive, leaving the Arboretum by the South Street gateway, and driving through the Arborway. to Franklin Park, lying nearly five miles south of the heart of the city, with which it is connected by the chain of park and parkways just described. At such a distance from the political centre of the municipality it is still within the limits of the outer settled district, where it is enjoyed by thou- sands of the community. The main interest of the park centres in a broad rolling tract of grass land, w^hich occupies its heart, and which is supported on all sides by woodland upon plain and hill. This woodland screen hides the traffic and the buildings of the district outside the park, and protects the pastoral passages of the landscape against noise and distracting objects. Within the bays of the bordering woodland are provided lawns for ten- nis and other games, as well as playfields — one of them of great size — for the enjoyment of rural sports. Hidden within the wood- land are areas set apart for swings, tilts and other devices for affording pleasure not sufficiently in keeping with the pastoral landscape to allow their intrusion upon it. At certain points w^here the bordering mantle of trees is led toward the open park interior there are provided shelters, overlooks and refectories, where visitors may enjoy extensive views. The drives and walks, which are arranged to bring the public to the most favored parts 58 GUIDE TO BOSTON. of the park without intruding upon it, are thronged upon holi- days and afternoons, and the central areas of greensward as well as its bounding groves are enjoyed by hosts of people. In its informal and naturalistic features this park is typical of the greater portion of the Boston Park System. This great pleasure ground has an area of 518 acres. It is reached easily from any part of the city for a single fare, through the elaborate system of free transfer stations. Visited by thousands of Bostoniany yearly, no summer visitor to Boston should fail to go there. One may take a Washington Street surface car, or ride out on the elevated line to Dudley Street. From here the route leads up Warren Street, lined with comfortable residences, passing the- Roxbury High School on the left. From Grove Hall Transfer Station a car may be taken to the main entrance on Columbia Road. Those who go out by trolley may best see the park by taking a ride in one of the park carriages, fare 25 cents. The carriages pass down Glen Lane, past the public golf links, around a broad ground known as the Playstead, past the Overlook Building, then near Schoolmaster Hill, where Ralph Waldo Emerson once taught, then through the beautiful wilderness and Ellicott- dale, with its tennis courts, emerging at the Arborway entrance, from which one may return to the starting point past a number of small lakes. Leaving the carriages at the Arborway, how- ever, a short walk takes one down to Forest Hills station, from which another line of street cars may be taken back to Boston. To return to the drive: Leaving Franklin Park by Columbia Road, which, at this writing, is nearing completion, we may follow the boulevard four and one-half miles to Marine Park, which offers a variety of attractions. A long pier stretches out into the harbor to an artificial island. At the entrance to the pier is a picturesque head-house, fashioned after a mediaeval German rathhaus. On the exterior panels is depicted the story of Bos- ton Bay. In this head-house are cafes, where one may obtain an excellent lunch. Across the bridge is Castle Island, with old Fort Independence, where expansive marine views may be en- joyed. Pleasure Bay, almost land-locked, between the iron pier, the horseshoe curve of the shore, and Castle Island, affords a PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS FOR THE TEOTLE. 59 chance for a row or a sail on its quiet waters. The boat service embraces canoes, rowboats, sailboats and steam launches at rea- sonable prices. Opposite the end of Broadway is Kitson's bronze statue of Admiral Farragut. ISIarine Park may be reached from almost any part of town, by using transfers, for five cents. The visit can be made in about two hours, and allow for an hour's stay at the park. In going take cars marked "City Point via Broadway," at the Union Sta- tion, or at Park, Adams or Postoffice Squares, or at the South Terminal Station. The cars on Broadway follow the main business street of South Boston over a hill on which is the famous Perkins Institution for the Blind, with glimpses of the harbor on the left. In returning, take a Bay View car. This line goes around the hill known in Colonial days as Dorchester Heights, where Washington surprised the British with earth- works thrown up in one night. There will also be a line of cars in operation via the Strandway and Columbia Road to Frank- lin Park, passing through a residential district along a beau- tiful boulevard. If the drive suggested has been followed the return to the city should be through East Broadway, past Independence Square, the Perkins Institution for the Blind, and via Broad- way back to the centre of the cit}^ THE METROPOLITAN PARK SYSTEM. The Boston jMetropolitan Park System is on so vast a scale that only a faint idea of its scope can be given here. Geographically it may be said to begin on the north- east, with the reservations of Nahant, Revere and Win- throp shores, and to encircle the city by many parkways and reservations, terminating finally with the Nantasket Beach res- ervation on the southeast. It will be the work of many years to complete all of the connecting links of this system, but the larger reservations, the beaches, and many of the connecting park- ways have been open to the public for some years. The shore reservations are described under "The Harbor and Beaches." Lynn Woods, a magnificent public woodland, distant ten miles from the State House, is practically a part of the Metropolitan 60 GUIDE TO BOSTON. System. The entire region of two thousand acres has a genuine forest character. Its central landscape feature is a woodland amphitheatre, overlooking which, from almost any point, little can be seen but forest, water and rocks. Several of the elevations command views of the ocean with Nahant in the distance. To the southward the Blue Hills rise above the entrance to Boston Harbor. Within the woods is a series of beautiful ponds. In the southern section Dungeon Rock, with its surrounding pines, is a most romantic spot. It was here that Hiram Marble and his son, directed by spirits, searched for over twenty years for the treasure said to have been buried in a cavern, whose entrance was destroyed by the earthquake of 1658. There are over six miles of roads in the woods, and the bicycler will find them excellent. Mount Gilead, the highest hill, is 267 feet above the sea. It affords a view which Mr. Olmsted said would make Lynn Woods famous. Electric cars leave Scollay Square for Lynn every fifteen min- utes. From the central station, in Lynn, cars run at frequent intervals to the several entrances of Lynn Woods. The Middlesex Fells Reservation lies within the limits of Maiden, Melrose, Medford, Stoneham and Winchester. It con- tains nearly two thousand acres, and in the words of the land- scape architects employed by the Commissioners, "the reservation consists essentially of a broad plateau thrust southward from Stoneham between the valleys of the Aberjona and Maiden rivers, the surface of which is minutely broken into many com- paratively small hills, bowls, and vales. Bear's Den in Maiden, and Pine Hill in Medford, both less than five and one-half miles distant from the State House, form the two southernmost cor- ners of the reservation. It includes much charming woodland, ragged cliflfs, picturesque crags, ponds and pools, and in its land- scape are mingled many types of scenery." The commission has improved the old roads through the reservation and constructed new ones, opened up bridle paths, linked together old wood paths, and slightly defined new ones, and constructed new lakes, but in all this work has endeavored carefully to preserve in the greatest degree its natural wildness. To see all the points of in- terest within the Fells would require several visits, and to drive PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS FOR THE PEOPLE. 61 over the roads would take nearly a day. All the roads are practicable for bicycle riding, though steep grades occur in places. Middlesex Fells may be reached by taking a Medford or Maiden car via West Everett, at Union Station and Subway stations. The Beaver Brook Reservation, lying partly in Belmont and partly in Waltham, west of Boston, contains 58.35 acres. The land lies along Beaver Brook, and contains the mag- nificent oak trees and the cascade commemorated by Lowell. 'Tts area," says Baxter, "is on nearly all sides insured against the intrusion of discordant elements by the pos- session of very large neighboring tracts by the McLean Asylum for the Insane, the Convalescent Home of the Massa- chusetts General Hospital, and the School for Idiotic and Feeble- Minded Youth." The "Beaver Oaks" comprise the south sec- tion, and "The Waterfall" and "The Ponds" the north section. Mr. E. L. Dame, in his work on the trees of Massachusetts, says, it is not likely there is another group of such noble trees within the Eastern States. There are now twenty-five of these trees standing, and, with one exception, they are white oaks. Beaver Brook may be reached by the Waverley car from Park Street and Boylston Street stations in the Subway, and Copley Square. Stony Brook Woods Reservation has an area of 475 acres. It lies in the West Roxbury district of Boston, and the town of Hyde Park, and is immediately connected with the Boston City system by the West Roxbury Parkway, which leads to the Arnold Arboretum. In general character it is a rocky wilderness, with steep slopes and ledges enclosing the glen, in whose depths lies Turtle Pond, the source of Stony Brook, which reaches salt water at the Fens. The main eminences — all of which com- mand delightful views — are Milkweed Hill, at the edge of the reservation, close to Washington Street; Bearberry Hill and The Perch, overlooking the pond ; Overbrook Hill, near the centre of the reservation; Bold Knob, overlooking the Watersweet meadow, close to Hyde Park, and Rooney's Rock, near Happy Valley, in the southern part of the reservation. The best way 62 GUIDE TO BOSTON. to see the reservation is to begin at Bellevue Hill, near the northern entrance, and go southward, in this way vommanding many vistas of the Blue Hills region. To reach Stony Brook Woods take Forest Hill cars, connecting ^with the West Roxbury and Roslindale, Dedham Division line. Fare lo cents. The Blue Hills Reservation, just south of Boston, is the larg- est recreation ground possessed by any American city. It con- tains 4,857.95 acres, and lies within the limits of Milton, Cantonj and Quincy. It is a diversified tract of semi-mountainous hills and woodland, about five miles in its greatest length, and from one to two miles in width. Hoosicwhisick Pond is within its limits. The distinctive character of the Blue Hills reservation, in the words of the landscape architects, is that "it presents a chain of bold, convex masses of rock and gravel, affording widespread panoramic prospects in all directions.... While several passes and defiles are very striking, and many views from hill to hill are even grand, it is the vast blue distance which tends to engross the attention, a distance here of ocean and there of forest, and there again marked by the remote Wachusett and Monadnock, a distance which, fortunately, is not yet disfigured by the too near approach of any town or city." The chief of the range is the Great Blue Hill, the westernmost elevation. 635 feet above the sea. These hills are the highest points of land on the Atlantic coast of the United States, from Mount Agamenticus. in Southern Maine, to the Mexican boundary. They are the first land sighted by the approaching mariner, and in a round-about- way they gave the Commonwealth of Massachusetts its name. Bacon, in his "Walks and Rides," says: "From them the Indian tribe along the ]\Iassachusetts Bay derived its name of 'Masadchu- seuck,' the word in the Algonquin tongue meaning, 'the people living near the great hills,' and the region round about was known as 'Masadchuset,' signifying 'near the great hills,' which became transformed into the English 'Massachusetts' when ap- plied to the bay and colony. The earliest record of these hills was made by Captain John Smith, who, during his exploration along the New England coast in 1614, observed, among 'the cheef mountaines,' the 'high mountaine of Massachuset,' probably the PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS FOR THE PEOPLE. 63 Great Blue, and gave it the name of 'Massachusits Mount.' Later, Prince Charles changed this name to that of 'Chevyot Hills,' which appears on Smith's map. The name 'Blue Hills' was doubtless suggested by the peculiar blue hue of the range." From the summit of the Great Blue Hill may be had enchanting views of land and sea. According to the Rev. A. K. Teele the outlook embraces a bird's-eye view of a radius of twenty-five miles and a circuit of one hundred and fifty miles. With the aid of a telescope, buildings have been identified in one hundred and twenty-five villages, and with the unassisted eye, in a clear atmosphere, a great variety of objects and points, in a wide sweep, can be discerned. On the tip of the summit is the Rofch Meteorological Observatory. Blue Hills Reservation may be reached via trolley by taking Ashmont and ]\Iilton car, on Washington Street, or at the South Terminal Station, which, connects at Milton Lower Mills with the Milton Division of the Old Colony Street Railway Company, and thence to the park entrance in Milton. Time, about one and one-half hours ; fare, lo cents. THE CHARLES RIVER DAM AND BASIN. Boston is to have a great water park in the center of the Back Bay District. This will be created by the dam now being con- structed to take the place of the old Craigie Bridge. The pres- ent Charles River Basin will become a fresh water lake, eight miles long, and the mud flats, which now are exposed at low tide, will be completely covered up. Nearly seventeen miles of park and parkway will border the Lake, the level of which will probably be established some time during the year 1908. The completion of the dam will render the river navigable as far as Watertown. OLD BOSTON, There is no doubt that many of Boston's visitors are attracted hither chiefly to view those relics of colonial and revolutionary times, in the possession of which Boston is so rich. It is also doubtless true that a majority of those who are on other business bent, desire just as earnestly to enjoy at the same time the sights of ancient and modern Boston. In the following pages a little pilgrimage has been arranged which includes all of the surviv- ing landmarks of former days, and, as the old and the new stand side by side, and the old is constantly being crowded and shut in, if not torn down by the demands of the present, it will also afford a chance to make the acquaintance of a part of the great business section of modern Boston. Most of Boston's historic sites lie north of Summer and Winter Streets, and north and west of the Common. It is possible to see them all in (^ne day, but it would be better to take two days for the work, and so have time to read and to think of the events which have given to this section of the city a charm which nothing can dispel. A convenient starting point will be at the Old South Meeting- House, corner of Washington and Milk Streets. The tablet on the tower gives a hint of the historical associations of the place. The ground on which the building stands was a part of Governor John Winthrop's garden. His house stood just north of the church, until 1775, when the British troops tore it down for fuel. In after years the land was given by Mrs. Mary Norton to the Third Congregational Society "for the erecting of a house for their assembling themselves together publiquely to worship God." The tablet reads: Old South Church gathered 1669 First House buiU 1670 This House erected 1729 Desecrated by British Troops 1775-6. 64 OLD SOUTH MEETliXG HOUSE, Washington and Milk Streets. 66 GUIDE TO BOSTON. This church was the scene of some of the exciting town meet- ings which preceded the outbreak of the war. It was also the point of departure for those who participated in the "Tea Party." During their occupation of Boston, the British used it as a riding-school. The society which formerly worshipped here now occupies the "New Old South" Church on Copley Square. The meeting-house served the city for a time after the Boston fire as a postoffice. It is now under the control of the Old South Preservation Society. Of this old meeting-house Dr. Holmes wrote: ^ "Full sevenscore years our city's pride — That comely southern spire — Has cast its shadow and defied The storm, the foe, the fire." On Milk Street, nearly opposite the Old South, is the site of Benjamin Franklin's Birthplace, indicated by an inscribed tablet on the front of a modern business building. Moving to the north along Washington Street we reach Spring Lane, in which was the spring mentioned by the early chron- iclers, and used by the towns- people for sever- al generations. Nearly opposite, on the corner of School Street, stands the oldest building in Bos- ton. It w a s erected in 1712 and for three- quarters of a cen- tury was known as the Old Corner Book Store. In 1903 it was given over to other business. On its site was the home OLD CORNER of that interesting Washington and School Streets. woman, Ann OLD BOSTON. 67 Hutchinson, who was banished from Boston in 1637. For many years this corner has been a resort for book-lovers and book- buyers. The names of Emerson, Holmes, Longfellow, Lowell, Thoreau, Whittier and others are enrolled among those who have frequented the spo't and added to its fame. From the old book store we will continue our way up School Street, named from the old Latin School, which from 1634 to 1844 stood on the site of the present City Hall. Just before we reach the latter we must turn north into City Hall Avenue, one of those quaint little paths which one is always discovering in Boston. Our object in threading this narrow passage is to turn east into another much like it, called Pie Alley, where we may see over the door of an old eating-house the sign of the Bell in Hand, dated 1795. Now, back in School Street, we reach the City Hall. This building long ago proved inadequate to the city's business, and many departments are located in neighboring buildings. In front of the City Hall are statues of Josiah Quincy and Benjamin Franklin. The latter is the work of Richard Greenough, and Dr. Edward Everett Hale, in his story entitled "My Double and how He Undid Me," makes this in- teresting remark: "Richard Greenough once told me that in studying for the statue of Franklin he found that the left side of the great man's face was philosophic and reflective, and the right side funny and smiling. If you will go and look at the bronze statue you will find he has repeated this observation for posterity. The eastern profile is the portrait of the statesman Franklin, the western of Poor Richard." Nearly opposite the City Hall is Province Street, which leads to Province Court. Here, as late as 1864, was still standing the Province House, resi- dence of many of the royal governors. In later days it be- came a famous hostelry. The Boston Tavern now occupies part of the site. Returning to School Street and continuing, this time on the left, to Tremont Street, we pass the Parker House, one of Boston's finest hotels. Across Tremont Street on the corner of Beacon Street, stood the old Tremont House, where Dickens, Thackeray and many other notables stayed when in the city. Some years ago it was torn down to make way for the Tre- 6g GUIDE TO BOSTON. mont Building, a modern business block. On the north- west corner is Houghton and Dutton's department store, and on the northeast corner King's Chapel. "That shocks our echoes with the name of kings." Lest you have forgotten how interest- ing is the story of this quaint building here are a few facts which may help you. In 1689, after the royal authorities had compelled the town to tolerate and provide a place for those desiring to worship in accordance with the ritual of the Church of England, a small wooden church was erected on this site. Here the royal governors and British army and naval officers had pews. On the walls hung the king's escutcheons, and pomp and ceremony had their due, to the great sorrow of the staid old Puritans, who would fain have compelled all within the town to walk in their own narrow path. King William and Queen Mary did not forget this frontier temple, but sent gifts for its adorning, a pulpit cloth, a fine communion service and for the east wall an illumination of the Decalogue, the Lord's Prayer, and the Apostles' Creed. On the pulpit, in those days, stood an hour-glass to mark the length of the sermons. In 1710 the building was enlarged, and in 1753 the present chapel was built. The parishioners continued to use the old building while the walls of the new one were going up around it. In after years, under the influence of Doctor Freeman the society changed its creed, and what had been the First Episcopal Church in Boston became Unitarian. The interior of the church to-day is interesting and attractive. The high-backed pews, the old-time gallery, the lofty pulpit, reached by winding stairs, are picturesque reminders of colonial days. Just north of the church lies King's Chapel Burying- Ground, oldest of the ancient cemeteries within the city. The first interment in this ground was made in 1630, and Governor Winthrop noted the event in his diary as follows: "Captain Welden, a hopeful young gent and an experienced sol- dier, died in Charlestown of consumption and was buried at Boston with a military funeral." Not all the worthies buried here can be mentioned, but among the quiet sleepers are: Gov- ernor John Winthrop, 1649, and his two sons, John Winthrop, 1676, and Fitz John Winthrop, 1707, both governors of Con- OLD BOSTON". necticut; Governor John Endicott, 1665; Governor John Leverett, 1679; Gov- ernor William Shirley, 1771 Govei John Winslow, 1674; Mary Chil- ton, 1670, a passenger in the Mayflower and the wife of Governor Wins- low; Lady Andros, 1688; Rev. John Cotton, 1652; Rev. John Davenport, 1670; Professor John Win- throp, 1776; Wait Still Winthrop, 1717; Adam Winthrop, 1743; Briga- dier-General John Wins- low, Revolutionary army; Colonel William Dawes, who rode over the Neck to Lexington and Concord to alarm the patriots the night before the battle at Lexington; Oliver Wen- dell, 1818, and Charles Bulfinch, 1844. There are many quaint old grave- stones in the yard. Some of these have been moved from their original positions and set up as edgestones to paths. One of these stones has an interesting history. At some time the stone was taken from the grave it marked and was lost. In 1830, when excavations were being made near the Old State House, it was found several feet below the surface of State Street. It is in- scribed: HERE : LYETH THE : BODY : OF : MR. WILLIAM : PADDY : AGED 58 YEARS : DEPARTED THIS : LIFE : AUGUST : THE [28] 1658. KING'S CHAPEL, Tremont and School Streets. 70 GUIDE TO BOSTON. On the reverse is this singular stanza of poetry: Hear , Sleaps . that Blesed . One . Whoes . Lief God . Help . Vs . All . to . Live that . So . When . Tiem . Shall . Be that.We. This. World. Must . Liue We . Ever . May . Be . Happy with . Blessed . William . Paddy. Continuing north on Tremont Street, we pass on our right the site of the Boston Museum, dear to those who recall the time when it was quite improper to attend thQtheatre,hut when there v/as noth- ing objectionable in a ruuseum. This fastidiousness of the good people caused their critics to dub it the "Orthodox Theatre," and the name clung to it for many years. At Scoilay Square we pause for a moment to note the statue of John Winthrop, by Richard Greenough, a duplicate of the one in the Capitol at Washington. Court Street is the old Queen Street of ante-Revoluti©nary times. The Old Court House, on the right of the street, was built in 1833-36. Young's Hotel, which fronts on Court Street, extends back to a court leading from Washington Street. On the northwest corner of Court and Washington streets is the Ames Building, the tallest, as it is one of the finest, of the buildings in Boston. On the southwest corner is another sub- stantial structure, the Sears Building, and opposite this, at the head of State Street, the colonial King Street, stands the Old State House. There is no locality in Boston so indentified with the stirring events of 1768-98 as the neighborhood of this most interesting building. Here, in the earliest days of the colony, was the market-house, and in 1657 this was succeeded by the old wooden Town House, used as the Provincial Capitol. In 171 1 the Town House was burned, and soon after, or about 1713, the present building was erected. In 1747 fire destroyed much of the interior of the building. Just think of the stately line of gov- ernors who presided over the councils of the colony and province, w^hose names are connected with the history of this building: Endicott, Leverett, Bradstreet, Sir Edmond Andros, Sir Williams Phipps, Lord Bellemont, Dudley, Burnet, Shirley, and others. Here it was that John Adams, James Otis, John Hancock, and numerous patriots made the first opposition to "^^ ^, ^*pf f Lfi^ PHOTO BY C. B. WCBC-'ER & CO. OLD STATE HOUSE, Washington and State Streets. 73 GUIDE TO j^uSTON. royal authority. In 1768 a British regiment was quartered in the building. In 1770 The Boston Massacre took place in froni of the building. Here Generals Gage, Howe and Clinton held councils of war. From the balcony Washington watched the entry of the American army after the termination of the siege of Boston. On July 18, 1776, the Declaration of Independence was read from the east window, and the proclamation of peace in 1783. Here Hancock, the first governor elected by the people, was inaugurated. In 1789 Washington reviewed a great proces- sion from the west end of the building. The State legislature met here until 1798, when all members of the State government marched to the new State Capitol on Beacon Hill. The first public library in America was located on this site, and the first Episcopal services in Boston were held here in 1686. From 1830 to 1839 the city government of Boston occupied this building as a city hall. After that time the building was leased for offices for general business until 1881, when it was restored as nearly as possible to its original form and arrangement and given in charge of the Bostonian Society. Continuing dowm State Street we pass at No. 28 the spot, marked by a circle in the pavement, where The Boston Mas- sacre occurred in March, 1770. A bronze tablet on the wall of a building near by also commemorates the event. The "town pump" stood at the northeast corner of Washington and State Streets, while on the northwest corner one of tHe first merchants of Boston, John Coggan, had his store. State Street is the finan- cial centre of Boston. It contains the Clearing House, Stock Exchange, and many fine modern buildings. The British Coffee House was on the site of 66, and the Bunch of Grapes Tavern not far away, on the corner of Kilby Street. The new building of the Board of Trade, at the corner of State and Broad streets, su- persedes one in which, since 1770, was an old nautical instrument shop, whose sign was the carved wooden image of Admiral Vernon. The quaint little figure, holding a telescope and quad- rant, was the work of Shem Drowne, famous in his day as a carver of figure-heads for vessels. The little Admiral may be seen in a shop window at 35 Central Street. At the junction of India and Commercial streets is the Custom House, a mas- OLD BOSTON. 73 sive granite building. A short distance further south, at the corner of Central and India streets, is the Chamber of Com- merce building, completed in 1892. The present Chamber of Commerce was founded in 1885 by the consolidation of two corporate trade bodies, the Boston Commercial Exchange, with three hundred members, and the Boston Produce Exchange, with five hundred members. Now let us turn back along Commercial Street to Quincy Market, built 1825-26. This is a two-story granite building, with large porticos at each end, and a dome over the centre. Those who enjoy a display of market wares, will find satisfaction in walking through this building. Just west of the market in Faneuil Hall Square stands the "cradle where the child Liberty FANEUIL HALL, Faneuil Hall Square. 74 GUIDE TO BOSTON. COPYRIGHTED, IQOI, BY T. E. MARR. IN FANEUIL HALL. One of the Collections. was born"— Faneuil Hall. The first Faneuil Hall was built in 1742 by Peter Faneuil, a wealthy merchant of French extraction, and presented to Boston for a market and town hall. The archi- tect of the first building was the portrait painter Smibert. In 1761 the building was damaged by fire and rebuilt partly by lottery funds. At the dedication of the second building, in ]\Iarch 1763, the patriot orator, James Otis, suggested that the hall be devoted to "the cause of Liberty." Here were held the town meetings, and in the years of agitation which preceded the Revolution many eloquent speakers thrilled and inspired the people and kept the spirit of Liberty alive. In 1768 the Four- teenth Royal Regiment was quartered here, and in 1775-76 the British officers set up a theatre in the building. Receptions and OLD BOSTON. 75 banquets were given here to Washington, Count D'Estaing, La- fayette, Jerome Bonaparte, Prince de Joinville, King Louis Phillipe, Talleyrand, Lord Ashburton, Lord Elgin, Kossuth, An- drew Jackson, and others. Channing, Webster, Jefferson Davis, Sumner, Garrison, Everett, Phillips, Evarts, Beecher, Long, Reed, and a host of other eminent men have spoken here. In 1805, under the supervision of the architect Bulfinch, the building was enlarged and improved. From that day to this the general aspect of the hall has been kept unchanged. It is never let for PHOTO COPYRIGHTED, IQOI, BY T. E. MARR. ARMORY OF THE ANCIENT AND HONORABLE ARTILLERY, COMPANY. 76 GUIDE TO BOSTON. money, but in times of general interest the people are still able to secure it for public meetings, and it is especially worthy of note that Wendell Phillips made his first anti-slavery speech within the walls where Otis and others had spoken for Liberty. Within the hall to-day are some interesting portraits, copies from originals in the Museum of Fine Arts, and Healy's painting of Webster addressing the United States Senate on the occasion of his celebrated reply to Hayne. The old building has recently undergone a thorough overhauling; all of the interior wood- work has been removed from the floors, galleries and stairways, and these, as well as the roof and belfry, have been replaced by fireproof material. But little now remains of the original interior construction of the building, and of the exterior only the bare brick walls. The hall is open to visitors, who are invited to register their names in a book kept for that purpose. On the upper floor is the armory of the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company. This is open to visitors from lo A. M. to 4 P. M., and the collection of portraits and relics is well worth a visit. No admission fee is charged. On leaving the Hall let us cross the street to Merchant's Row, and go towards State Street. At Corn Court, a narrow alley, turn to the right and following the alley you will come upon the site of the old Hancock Tavern, where Washington, Talleyrand, Louis Phillipe, and other notables were guests- It was torn down in 1903. The alley will lead you back to Faneuil Hall Square again, and now cross Dock Square, where, at Nos. 31 and 33, was the Sun Tavern of 1690. The "Tea Party" Indians here donned their paint and feathers before starting for the tea ships. From Dock Square we enter Union Street. At Nos. 80 and 86 was the Green Dragon Tavern, once known as the "Headquarters of the Revolution." The old tavern disappeared in 1828, but a repro- duction of its ancient sign appears on the front of the building which occupies its site. From Union Street we pass into Mar- shall Street. In this cramped alley lived Ebenezer Hancock, brother of John Hancock, Deputy Paymaster of the Continental Army. The buildings facing Marshall Street, wdiich extend back to Creek Lane, were known as Hancock's Row. At Marshall Street, imbedded in the rear wall of a building which faces Han- OLD BOSTON. 77 over Street, is the Boston Stone, once usea as a painter's mill, and afterward as a sign in front of a paint-shop. It bears the date 1737, but it was doubtless brought from England about 1700. From ]\Iarshall Street we wind around the corner to Blackstone Street, named for the first white man who lived in Boston. Black- stone Street loads us to North Street, which we follow north to old North Square (really a triangle), where the British troops rendezvoused the night before the battle of Lexington and Con- cord. On the north side of the Square, at Nos. 19 and 21, is an old frame house, where Paul Revere lived. In this part 01 the city there is little left to remind one of the sturdy and earnest men and women who lived and worked and plotted and died that freedom might here find soil in which to grow and blossom. The men and women against whom one must jostle as he wends his way to historic shrines are from sunny Italy, Hungary or some other land across the sea. It is rather jarring to the historical pilgrim as he recalls bits of tradition and romance which cannot be reconciled to present-day sur- roundings. He tries, perhaps, to picture the years to come when education and philanthropy shall have done their great work, and the descendants of these foreigners shall be as far removed from the people who now eye us curiously as we pick our way through the old North End, as we ourselves are from the "men of 'jd." But let us look at the map for a few minutes and study the nomenclature of the streets. It will suggest a whole world of history and romance. In colonial days here lived the Boston nobility. Here, leading from North Square, is Garden Court Street, known of old as Frieze! Court. How shabby its brick houses ! Nothing to-day suggests the time when the estates of Sir Harry Frankland and Governor Hutchinson occupied the entire square from Fleet to Prince streets. Hutchinson's house was standing as late as 1834. and one of the capitals of its Cor- inthian pilasters is now in the collection of the Historical Li- brary. Farther to the east, Moon Street also leads to Fleet. Here on the east side, half-way between the square and Fleet Street, was the home of Rev. Samuel Mather. There is much of squalor in this locality, but with our minds intent on the past OLD CHRIST CHURCH Salem Street, Opposite Hull Street. OLD BOSTON. 79 we select here and there a name which attracts, because of its quaintness, or some picture left in the mind by incidents of which we have read and almost forgotten. Hours could be spent in this section of the town, but unless one has much time to give he must hasten on, following Prince Street across Hanover, their names so suggestive of cays when loyal colonists had not dreamed of the inevitable separation, to Salem Street, and. taking the right side of the street, keep north to Old Christ Church, dating to 1723, and, therefore, the oldest church building in Boston. Authorities are divided as to truth of the in- scription on the tablet, which reads: "The signal lanterns of Paul Revere displayed in the steeple of this church, April 18, 1775, warned the country of the march of the British troops to Lexing- ton and Concord." It is pleasant, however, to believe with those critics who hold that the tablet is right, though the church would be sufficiently interesting without the tradition which Longfellow immortalized in "Paul Revere's Ride." In the vestry are pre- served many ancient relics, including the prayer-book w^iich shows plainly how the prayers for His Majesty the King were amended during Revolutionary times, so as to suit the senti- ments of the worshippers. There is also a communion set pre- sented to the church in 1732 by George II. The organ was im- ported from London in 1759, and the high gallery beside it was built for occupancy by slaves. The chime of bells in the tower was cast in Gloucester, England, in 1744, and was the first to be used in America. Within a few years the bells have been re- hung, and they may be heard on each Sunday in the year, as in old times. In the crypt are entombed Rev. Timothy Cutler, D. D., the first rector of the church, several British officers killed at Bunker Hill, and a few others. Episcopal services are still held each Sunday in the church. Some of the most in- teresting relics, including the communion service, can be seen only on the first Sunday of each month, when the communion is observed. Entrance to the church, however, can be had at almost any time by application to the sexton. Hull Street, named for the old mint master, is directly op- posite the old Christ Church, and as we turn in here it takes 80 GUIDE TO BOSTON. but a few steps to bring us to No. i6, on the left side of the street. This quaint gambrel-roofed old house was built in 1724. It is said that it was used by General Gage as headquarters dur- ing the Battle of Bunker Hill. A short distance further up the hill and we come to Copp's Hill Burying-Ground. In the very- first days of the colony this was known as Windmill Hill, be- cause of the old windmill which ground corn for the settlers. Later on it was Snow Hill, and then Copp's Hill. This was the second burial place established in Boston. The first interments were made here in 1659. Among the interesting tombs is that of the Hutchinson family, desecrated by the insertion of the name Thomas Lewis, where that of Hutchinson was obliterated. The most noted tomb in the ground is that of Rev. Cotton Mather, near the Charter Street gate. There are several slabs bearing armorial devices, which the superintendent of the yard is al- ways ready to point out to visiters. At times, when the gates are closed, admission can be obtained by application to the super- intendent, who lives in the neighborhood. North of the burying- ground, across Charter Street, named from the Charter of King William III., under which Maine, Plymouth and Massachusetts formed a single province, may be seen North End Park, and beyond, across the river, in Charlestown, Bunker Hill Monu- ment. Having completed our sight-seeing on the hill, let us return to Hull Street, and going west to Snow Hill Street, follow the latter till we turn to the right on Prince Street, and, still holding our way westward, reach Causeway Street. A short distance to the south we reach the North Union Station, and here we may take either an elevated or a surface car for the Park Street Subway Station. We are back now in the heart of the shopping district, and we still have the neighborhood of Beacon Hill to explore. This may be left until another day, when we shall resume cur pilgrimage at the corner of Park and Tremont streets by the old Park Street Church. We must pause on Tremont Street to look in at the old Gran- ary Burying-Ground, named from the granary which stood on the site of the church. In this plot are buried nine governors of the Colony and State; three of the signers of the Declaration 32 GUIDE TO BOSTON. of Independence; Paul Revere, the patriot; Peter Faneuil, the donor of the hall that bears his name; Judge Samuel Sewall, and many others. Upon the front of one of the tombs, on the side nextt to Park Street Church, was once a marble slab with the inscription, "No. i6. Tomb of Hancock;" but nothing now marks the resting-place of the first signer of the Declaration of Inde- pendence. In another part of the yard is the grave of Samuel Adams. Near the Tremont Building corner are the graves of the victims of the Boston Massacre of 1770. The most conspicu- ous monument in the ground is one erected in 1827 to mark the graves of the parents of Benjamin Franklin. It contains an epitaph, composed by their illustrious son, "in filial regard to their memory." Across from here a little to the eastward stands the new Tremont Temple, Boston headquarters of the Baptist denomination. Returning to Park Street we climb the hill, lured on by the golden dome which Holmes called the "Hub of the universe," and of which Henry James speaks as "the most felicitous object in Boston." Just at the top of Park Street, on the corner of Beacon, stands the old Ticknor mansion, where Lafayette stayed during his visit in 1824. Before entering the State House we may take time for a visit to the beautiful Shaw Memorial oppo- site (Sec page 51), and then crossing Beacon Street enter the State House. The part of the noble building facing Beacon Street, and designed by Charles Bulfinch, was completed in 1798. At the laying of the corner-stone in 1795 Paul Revere was mas- ter of ceremonies, and Samuel Adams delivered the oration. A few years before, the ground on which it stands was John Han- cock's cow pasture. There are statues of Daniel Webster and Horace Mann, on the Beacon Street grounds and at the corner of Bowden and Beacon Streets is an equestrian statue of Maj. General Joseph Hooker. The granite column on the east grounds, surmounted by a bronze eagle, commemorates the "beaccn" which gave the name to Beacon Hill. The tablets on its base formerly decorated a monument of brick and stone erected in 1791. A bronze statue of General Devens stands near by. The State House grounds extend east as far as Bowdoin Street, the old buildings having been removed in 1901. The proposition in recent year§ tO tear 84 GUIDE TO BOSTON. down the State House brought out so many remonstrances that it has been repaired, the cupola on the dome rebuilt on Bulfinch's plan, and the interior arrangements restored as far as possible to their original condition. Meantime, an extension has been built, four times the size of the original building, and involving a cost of $5,000,000. Entering the State House from Beacon Street, the visitor first steps into Doric Hall. Here arc statues of George Washington, by Sir Francis Chantrey, and of Governor John A. Andrew, by Thomas Ball. Here also are two brass cannon, consecrating the names of Major John Buttrick and Captain Isaac Davis, "whose valour and example excited their fellow citizens to a success- ful resistance of a superior number of British troops," at Con- cord bridge, April 19, 1775; two brass cannon captured in the war of 1812; a tablet in memory of Charles Bulfinch, architect; a tab- let "to commemorate the preservation and renewal of the Massa- chusetts State House;" two memorial tablets of the Washington family, presented to the Commonwealth by Hon. Charles Sum- ner in 1861. The Washington tablets are of bluish-gray sand- stone, and are an exact fac-simile of the originals which mark the resting-place of the ancestors of George Washington in Brington, England. Portraits of sixteen governors have been ar- ranged upon the walls. The ceiling of the passageway in the rear of Doric Hall con- tains a skylight with "Liberty" in the centre, surrounded by the names of the republics of Hellas, Helvetia, Florence, Venice, Genoa, Iceland, Holland, Andorra, San Marino and Rome. At one side is the seal of "Mattachusets Bay in Nova Anglia;" at the other that of "Plimouth Nov Anglia." The large bronze case contains the colors which were carried by Massachusetts soldiers in the Spanish war, and returned to the custody of the State. Nearly in the centre of the building is Memorial Hall. Sixteen pillars of Sienna marble support the circular gallery. The dome is surrounded by a heavy bronze cornice environed by the eagles of the Republic, and above them, in cathedral glass, is the crest of the Commonwealth, encircled, within laurel wreaths, by the seals of the other twelve original States. The floor is inlaid with gg GUIDE TO BOSTON. several varieties of marble. Within four niches are the battle flags carried by Massachusetts volunteers during the war of the Rebellion. In other arched recesses may be seen busts of governors. The north and south panels are to contain paintings by Henry O. Walker, one entitled "The Pilgrims on the May- flower," the other "John Eliot preaching to the Indians." The paintings for the east and west panels are by Edward Simmons. They are entitled respectively "Concord Bridge, April 19, 1775," and "The Return of the Colors to the Custody of the Common- w^ealth, December 22, 1865." Passing out of Memorial Hall and ascending the main stair- case, the visitor will notice a stained glass window, containing reproductions of the various official seals of Massachusetts. The executive department occupies the west wing, third floor. All the governors elected under the constitution of Massachusetts, ex- cept three, have performed the duties of their office in these rooms, the administrations of John Hancock, James Bowdoin and Samuel Adams having ended before the completion of the Bulfinch State House. The Council Chamber is of the Corinthian order. The north wall is ornamented by the caduceus and cap of liberty, represent- ing peace and freedom; the east wall by a golden star, represent- ing Massachusetts — one of the thirteen original States; the south wall by the scale and' sword of justice, emblems of executive power; the west wall by the arms of the Commonwealth. Wreaths of oak and laurel complete the decorations. The walls and ornamentations of this room are those originally placed there by Bulfinch. Stepping across the west corridor, the visitor enters the Senate Chamber, with its galleries formed by Doric columns, the whole being surrounded by Doric entablatures. The four flat arches, united by a circular cornice above, form in the angles four pen- dants to the dome. The pendants are adorned with emblems of commerce, agriculture, peace and war. Over the President's chair are the National and State flags, the gilded eagle already mentioned, holding in its beak a large scroll with the inscription : "God save the Commonwealth of Massachusetts," and upon the north wall are the State arms. In this room the House of PHOTO COPYRIGHTED, 1898, BY N. L. STEBBINS MASSACHUSETT \TE HOUSE. 90 GUIDE TO BOSTON. Representatives held its sessions from January ii, 1798, to Jan- uary 2, 1895, when new quarters were provided in the extension. North of the Senate Chamber is the Senate reading-room, and beyond this the Library. This contains a collection of about 110,000 volumes, including statutes of all the countries of the world, and, with the exception of New York, it is .he largest State reference library in the United States. Here is the "History of Plimoth Plantation," by Governor William Bradford, returned to the Commonwealth from the library of the Consistorial and Episcopal Court of London, by the Lord Bishop of London, through the efforts of Hon. George F. Hoar, United States Senator, and Hon. Thomas F. Bayard, Ambassador at the Court of St. James, and received in behalf of the Commonwealth by His Excellency Roger Wolcott, Governor, May 26, 1897. Leaving the library and passing into the west corridor, the visitor enters the reading and writing rooms, and postoffice connected with the House of Representatives. Beyond are the ladies' reception room and Representatives' chamber, both finished in white ma- hogany. The coats of arms and names of the counties are wrought in the glass; upon the frieze are the names of fifty-one noted men. In the corridor near the Representatives' Chamber is a very striking bronze statue of Ex-Goxernor Roger Wolcott, which was dedicated December 31, 1906. After sunset the dome of the State House is illuminated by many incandescent lights, making it one of the sights of Boston. Forty or fifty years ago the streets running down the northern and western slopes of Beacon Hill were largely filled with the homes of the wealthy and fashionable. Changes have taken place and business, ever crowding and insistent, now claims most of the section for its own. Many of the beautiful old homes are now given up to club and boarding-houses, the fam- ilies who once occupied them having moved to the Back Bay or the suburbs, though some still keep their homes on the hill. But the old places will live in "song and story" for coming genera- tions. Many of America's great writers, living in the neighbor- hood, so loved the quaint old houses and picturesque streets that they have filled them with their characters, some of them his- toric, and given them lasting fame. OLD BOSTON. 91 Beacon Street from Park to Tremont is no longer a residence street. East of the State House may be seen the American Unitarian Association Building, a brownstone structure, and next to it the new and handsome Bellevue Hotel. Opposite is the building of the Boston Atheneum at iqI/I Beacon Street. Just north on Somerset Street is Jacob Sleeper Hall, containing the office and several departments of Boston University, which also has a School of Law on Ashburton Place, near by. It has SUFFOLK COUNTY COURT HOUSE, Pemberton Square. a School of Theology on IMount Vernon Street, a School of Medicine on East Concord Street, and Colleges of Music and Agriculture at xA.mherst, Mass. On the right of Somerset Street we enter the rear of the Court House, which faces on Pemberton Square. It was erected in 1887-94, at a cost of nearly $4,000,000. In the beautiful corridor may be seen French's statue of Rufus Choate. Passing out into Pemberton Square, formerly a quarter of fashionable homes, now chiefly occupied b}-^ lawyers' offices, 92 GUIDE TO BOSTON. we continue to Scollay Square, named for one William Scollay, who a century ago owned much of the property in this neighbor- hood. Beacon Street from the State House to Charles Street is still a fashionable quarter. At No. 25 Beacon Street was the Bow- doin mansion, where General Burgoyne was quartered. Stand- ing in front of No. 29, we try to picture in place of the modern brownstone house, the famous old Hancock mansion, which oc- cupied the site until 1863. Those who were so fortunate as to see the Massachusetts Building at the Chicago Exposition in 1893 will need little prompting to make the picture complete. Wash- ington, Lafayette, and other famous men were guests within its walls. Its old door-step is now preserved near Pine-Bank Cot- tage, on the shore of Jamaica Pond. At 42 Beacon Street is the Somerset Club House, formerly the home of David Sears. This was the site of the house of John Stuart Copley, the painter. At the corner of Beacon and Walnut streets, Wendell Phillips was born. At 55 Beacon Street, the historian, W. H. Prescott, lived and died. John Lothrop Motley lived at No. 7 Walnut Street. On Chestnut Street, just west of Beacon Street and parallel with the latter, Richard H. Dana, Francis Parkman, Ed- win Booth and Dr. A. C. Bartol had their homes. On Mount Vernon Street, the street next beyond Chestnut, were once the homes of William Ellery Channing, Charles Fran- cis Adams, Mrs. Harrison Gray Otis, and Governor Claflin. Mrs. Margaret Deland is still a resident of this pleasant thor- oughfare as was Thomas Baily Aldrich until his death on March 19. 1907. Louisburg Square leads from Mount Vernon Street to Pinck- ney Street. Its quaint little statues of Columbus and Aristides were presented by the Turkish Consul in 1849. Pinckney Street, west of Mount Vernon Street, is still well known to those literary and artistic circles which have always found delightful possibilities on Beacon Hill. Miss Alice Brown made her home for some years on this street, and in her "Mar- garet Warrener" has made it, with some additions, the proto- type for "Merrymount Street.' Pinckney Street winds down to the river, and the pretty panel at its foot gives a glimpse of the Charles River and the hills beyond Cambridge. OLD BOSTON. 93 Turning from Pinckney to the north on Charles Street we see on our left the Home for Aged Women, and further on, be- yond Cambridge Street the Charlesbank grounds and gymnasium, a part of the Boston Park System (See page 54). Walking north through the park we see on our right the Charles Street Jail, and beyond the buildings and grounds of the Massachusetts General Hospital, founded in 1799, and, with one exception, the oldest hospital in the country. A short walk to the northeast would bring us to the North Union Station, but turning south and east along Leverett and Green streets we soon reach Bow- doin Square, one of the busy centres through which is a constant stream of travel to and from Cambridge, by way of Cambridge Street and West Boston Bridge. Once Bowdoin Square was a region of beautiful homes with gardens and orchards. Now it is given over to retail shops of the poorer sort. The Revere House is one of the old landmarks of this quarter. It was quite a famous hotel in its day, a favorite with Daniel Webster and other prominent men. The Prince of Wales, now Edward VII , the Duke Alexis and Jennie Lind are also numbered among the famous guests of this ancient hostlery. Climbing the hill again via Bulfinch, Allston and Bowdoin Streets v\'e have a chance to notice on the way the Bulfinch Place Unitarian Church, and the gray-stone edifices of the Mission Church of St. John the Evangelist. We may also get a good side view of the State House extension. OUTLYING DISTRICTS OF BOSTON, From time to time in the city's history towns and villages, ly- ing on the outskirts of Old Boston, have been annexed to the city. These places retain their former name, and, to some ex- tent, their characteristics. They are all readily accessible by trolley lines. East Boston, known of old as Noddle's Island, was formerly accessible only by the ferries from the foot of Battery Street and Eastern Avenue, but on December 30, 1904 the new tunnel was formally opened to the public, thereby greatly facilitating communication between these two sections of the city. The name of the original settler, Samuel Maverick, is perpetuated in churches, blocks, streets and squares. To-day East Boston is a region of factories, ship-yards, docks, piers, fish-curing establish- ments, oil works, coal depots and grain elevators. The trans- atlantic steamers of the Cunard and several other important lines arrive and depart from the docks of East Boston. Wood Island Park, one of the reservations of the Boston Park System, affords a delitjhtful resort for the residents of this populous district. East Boston is connected with Chelsea (See page 131) by a bridge over Chelsea Creek, and with Winthrop (See page 117) by bridge, or drive across Breed's Island. Charlestown, settled in 1629, and annexed to Boston in 1872, offers few attractions to visitors aside from the Navy Yard and Bunker Hill Monument. Very few of its four hundred houses escaped the burning of the town during the Battle of Bunker Hill. To see the Navy Yard, leave the car at Wapping Street and walk east to the Wapping Street gate, where permission for the visit may be obtained. The yard is open daily between sun- rise and sunset, and visitors are freely admitted. The yard covers Moulton's Point, where the British troops landed for the (94) OUTLYING DISTRICTS OF BOSTON. 95 Battle of Bunker Hill. The granite walls enclose ninety-one acres with a water frontage of a mile and three-quarters. The commandant's house and some of the other buildings date from the early years of the nineteenth century. The rope-walk, the dry-dock, and the Naval Museum are points which will attract visitors; but the chief interest of all will centre in "Old Iron- sides," which now lies quietly at anchor after her toilsome but glorious career. From the Navy Yard walk by way of Wapping. Chelsea and Chestnut streets to Bunker Hill Monument on Breed's Hill. Soon after entering Chestnut Street, Winthrop Square, the old training field, is passed on the left. The monument covers the southeast corner of the old redoubt behind which the Americans stood on the seventeenth of June, 1775. The obelisk measures thirty feet square at its base, and rises to the apex, two hundred 'OLD IRONSIDES. 96 GUIDE TO BOSTON. and twenty feet. The observatory at the top is reached by a spiral flight of two hundred and ninety-four stone steps. It is a long climb, but the magnificent views from the windows amply repay one for the effort. In the lodge at the base of the monu- ment is a statue of General Warren. In the monument is a model of the first monument. The monument was designed by Solo- mon Willard. It was begun in 1825, completed in 1842, and for- mally dedicated on June 17, 1843. The occasion was a memor- able one. President John Tyler, with the members of his cabinet, were among the men of distinction present, and Mr. Webster was the orator, A memorial stone in the path-edge near the monument is supposed to mark the spot where Warren fell, but the actual place was further north. The spot where Prescott stood at the opening of the fight is marked by Story's bronze portrait statue of Prescott, The monument is in charge of Supt. J. H. Dennett, who is always pleased to furnish infor- mation and from whom many unique souvenirs may be had. The ancient Charlestown graveyard is closed to the general public. It is crowded with tombs and graves, well shaded by trees. The oldest slab is marked 1642. This bears the name of Maud Russell, wife of William Russell. The piece chipped from the corner is said to have been done by a shot from a British warship during the battle. The Harvard monument, a granite shaft, four feet square at base and fifteen feet high, occupies the highest point in the inclosure. It is the most conspicuous object here, and was erected in 1828 by alumni of the University. The inscriptions, now almost obliterated, are in these words: (On the eastern face.) "On the twenty-sixth day of September, A. D. 182S, this stone was erected by the gradutes of the University at Cambridge in honor of its founder, who died at Charlestown on the twenty-sixth day of September, A. D. 1638." (Wesern face. In Latin.) "That one v;ho merits so much from our literary men should no longer be without a mojiument, however humble, the graduates of the University of Cambridge, New England, have erected this stone nearly two hundred years after his death, in pious and perpetual remembrance of John Harvard." Brighton is reached via Cambridge by cars starting from Bow- doin Square, or by Newton cars at Subway stations or Copley I BUNKER HILL MONUMENT. 98 GUIDE TO BOSTON. Square. The latter route is more direct and pleasanter, the cars following Boylston Street, Massachusetts Avenue, Beacon Street, Commonwealth Avenue and Brighton Avenue to the Newton line. Brighton was settled in 1635, became a parish in 1779, a town in 1807, and a part of Boston in 1874. It is a great cattle market, and has extensive stockyards. The part of Brigh- ton which adjoins Brookline, called Aberdeen, is built up with dwellings of very unique and attractive character. Chestnut Hill Reservoir is in the Brighton district, though commonly reached by passing through Brookline. The West Roxbury district is reached by cars from the Sub- way stations or Copley Square. This district forms the extreme southwesterly part of Boston, and has within its limits Jamaica Plain, Olmsted Park, the Arnold Arboretum, and Franklin Park, parts of the chain of Boston parks (See page 56); Mount Bellevue (348 feet), the highest of the hills of Boston; the Stony Brook Reservation of the Metropolitan Parks System; the beautiful Forest Hills Cemetery, and "Brook Farm," the place where the famous experiment in socialism was tried in 1841-47, and the scene of Hawthorne's "Blithedale Romance." West Roxbury has been a part of Boston since 1874, but it still retains sections of great rural beauty, where green lanes and over-arching trees are found. Jamaica Plain, the first part set- tled, was given its name in commemoration of Cromwell's con- quest of the island of Jamaica. Before that time it was called Pond Plain, from the pond on its borders. The West Roxbury and Dedham branches of the Providence Division, New York, New Haven and Hartford Railway, pass through the heart of the district, while electric car lines cover Jamaica Plain and West Roxbury Village. On the square at Centre and South streets is the Soldiers' Monument, the site of the first schoolhouse of the town. Facing this square is the historic Loring-Greenough house, headquarters of General Nathaniel Green, in May, 1775, and during the siege of Boston used as a hospital. The house, though built in 1758, is in an excellent state of preservation. It is but a short walk from the square to the Arborway and the entrance to the Arnold Arboretum (See page 57). South Street leads from the Square to the Forest Hills station of the OUTLYING DISTRICTS OF BOSTON. 99 New York, New Haven and Hartford Railway. Here the Park driveways pass under the railroad. Forest Hills Cemetery may be reached by taking direct trol- ley line, which runs out Washington, Boylston and Tremont streets, or from Subway and elevated stations by transfer at Dudley Street. This beautiful cemetery adjoins Franklin Park and might well be included in the tour of the parks suggested in Chapter HI. While not so widely known as Mount Auburn, there is no doubt that Forest Hills is even more fortunate than the LAKE HIBISCUS, FOREST HILLS CEMETERY. former in its landscape features, its natural beauties have been enhanced by the skill of the landscape gardener, and from its hills, ledges and bell tower charming views are obtained. Of the sculpture displayed on the grounds, that known as the Mil- more Memorial is the most famous. This is on Cypress and Poplar avenues. It is the work of Daniel C. French, and it represents the Angel of Death staying the hand of the sculptor. On the summit of Mount Warren is the tomb of General Joseph Warren, the hero of Bunker Hill- Other graves of note are those (^ r^c. 100 GUIDE TO BOSTON. of Rear-Admiral Winslow, in Orange Path; Rear-Admiral Henry- Knox Thatcher, on Tantana Path; William Lloyd Garrison, on Smilax Path; James Freeman Clarke, Ageratum Path; John Gil- bert, the actor, Brook Path, and E. L. Davenport, Arethusa Path. In the Soldiers' Lot is the Soldiers' Monument, erected by the city and designed by Martin Milmore. Mount Hope Cemetery, lying a little further south, also has many beautiful monuments, including a Soldiers' Monument of Heavy Artillery, donated by the United States Government. From West Roxbury Village many delightful walks and drives may be had. Centre Street, through the village, with its elms and bordering homesteads, is a typical New England country town street. In the days of stage-coaching it was the route taken by the coaches of the Providence line to avoid the hills of the Bos- ton and Providence turnpike (the present Washington Street), which ran in nearly a straight line the entire distance. It is not over a mile and a half from the village to Brook Farm, on Baker Street, near St. Joseph's Cemetery. The route should be along Centre, La Grange and Weld streets. The Brook Farm experi- ment was the outcome of discussions in the Transcendental Club of Boston, and was a sincere attempt — the first in the country — by educated and cultivated men and women to make a practical trial of the principle of association. George Ripley, George Bradford, Minot Pratt, John S. Dwight, Charles A. Dana, Nathaniel Hawthorne , Margaret Fuller, and about seventy others were members of this community, which was organized in 1841. The experiment was a failure, as the members were not practical business folk, and the farm has served different pur- poses since its abandonment by the Brook farmers. During the Civil War it was occupied by the Second Massachusetts Regi- ment, and known as Camp Andrew. Since 1871 it has been used for the Martin Luther Orphan Home. Roxbury, formerly called Boston Highlands, was settled in 1630, and incorporated as a town at about the same time as Boston. It was made a city in 1840, and annexed to Boston in 1868. It is reached by cars from Rowe's Wharf, Union Station, South Station, East Boston Ferry, Subway stations and Wash- ington Street. Roxbury is a pleasant residence quarter, with OUTLYING DISTRICTS OF BOSTON. 101 broad, shady streets. Most of its ancient landmarks have been swept away. At Eliot Square was the meeting-house of The First Religious Society of Roxbury, to which John Eliot, the Apostle to the Indians, once ministered. On the historic site stands to-day its successor, the First Parish Church, erected in 1804. In the old days the society was Orthodox Congregational, but is now Unitarian. During the Revolution the steeple of the church which then occupied this site, was used as a signal sta- tion by the American army, and was frequently a target for British cannon. The old Universalist Church, near by, stands where Governor Thomas Dudley's house stood. At the foot of Eliot Square, reset against a building, is the "Parting Stone," placed by Paul Dudley in 1744, and marked on the left, "Ded- ham and Rhode Island," on the right "Cambridge and Water- town." Highland Street leads from Eliot Square to the hill, the site of the earthworks thrown up in 1775, called the Roxbury High Fort, marked now by the Cochituate standpipe on the hill between Beech Glen and Fort Avenues. General Joseph Warren, who fell at Bunker Hill, was a native of Roxbury, and the Warren estate on Warrent Street is still held by his descendants. A tablet in the wall commemorates his birthplace. On Kear- sarge Avenue, is the ancient Roxbury Latin School, founded by Eliot and Dudley in 1645, and having on its list of alumni many eminent names. The Greyhound Tavern on Washington Street, nearly opposite Warren Street, dates from 1645, and was head- quarters for troops during the Revolution. Washington was also entertained here. At the corner of Washington and Eustis streets is the old burying-ground in which John Eliot, the Dud- ley family, and others of oldtime prominence were buried. Dorchester was incorporated at the same time as Boston, and became a part of Boston in 1870. Its hills command ex- tensive land and marine views, and are covered with fine villas. It has various local divisions, Upham's Corner, IMeeting-House Hill, Mount Bowdoin, Field's Corner, Har- rison Square, Commercial Point, Dorchester ViJlage, Ash- mont, Neponset and Lower Mills. At Upham's Corner is the old burying-ground where are the graves of Richard Mather, founder of the Mather family in this country, and others distinguished in 102 GUIDE TO BOSTON. the history of Massachusetts. Meeting-House Hill has since 1670 been the site of the successive meeting-houses of the first Parish (now Unitarian), dating from 1630. The present liouse was built in 1816. For Dorchester district take elevated or subway train to Dud- ley Street terminal, and transfer to surface cars. South Boston may be reached via South Boston or City Point car at Union Station, South Station, Post Office Square and Washington Street. This district was part of Dorchester until 1804, at which time it was joined to Boston. Like East Boston, it is an industrial centre, having vast establishments in which naval vessels are built and heavy ordnance made. Immense manufacturing estab- lishments are situated along the water fronts. Here are also located the extensive freight yards of the New York, New Haven and Hartford Railway. Carney Hospital, on Old Harbor Street, was founded by Andrew Carney, a wealthy Boston mer- chant. The Perkins Institute for the Blind, on Dorchester Heights, was named for Colonel Thomas H. Perkins, one of its chief benefactors. On the sum- mit of Dorchester Heights is the monument erected by the State of Massachusetts, commemora- tive of the important action taken by General John Thomas and a detachment of Washington's army in erecting redoubts there- on during the night of March 4, 1776. It was this decisive and masterly feat which resulted in the evacuation of Boston by the British on March 17, following. This monument was dedi- cated March 17, 1902. South Boston may be reached from the Dorchester district via the surface cars on the new Columbia Road. DORCHESTER HEIGHTS MONUMENT CAMBRIDGE, HARVARD COLLEGE AND MOUNT AUBURN. Cambridge is Boston's largest suburb, and the most famous university town in the country. Its population is over 92,000. Settled in 1630, it was first known as the "Newe Towne," but was named Cambridge after its selection, in 1637, as the seat of Harvard College, which has given it the widest fame. It has other claimsto distinction, for it is the place where the first print- ing-press in the county was set up, and it has been the home of many eminent men. It became a city in 1846. It is locally di- vided into four sections, East Cambridge, where are the Middle- sex County Courts; Cambridgeport (so called since 1805, when it was made a port of entry); Old Cambridge, and North Cam- bridge. Assuming that the main point of attraction is to be found in the great university, with its museums, historic build- ings, and associations, the visitor is advised to take the car from Subway stations, which goes via Harvard Bridge; but the city may also be reached from Bowdoin Square via the New We Boston Bridge. The first route follows Massachusetts Avenue and brings up at Harvard Square, by one of the main gateways to the college grounds. There is little to interest visitors in the "Port," through which the car passes. At the foot of Brookline Street is the famous shop of Alvan Clark & Sons, where their great telescopes are made. Through Pearl Street, the next above Brookline Street, the Riverside Press is reached. If one is inclined he may step off the car at the City Hall, in order to pass the several "Rindge gifts" to Cambridge. The City Hall is one of these gifts. Others are the Public Library building and the Manual Training School, a third of a mile westward on Broad- way. They were given by Frederick H. Rindge, a native of Cambridge, and upon the simple condition that they should bear (103) 104 GUIDE TO BOSTON. certain itiscfiptioHs provided by the doilor. His inscription for the City Hall, built in 1889-90, which appears in the front over the main entrance, reads: "God has given commandments unto men. From these commandments men have framed laws by which to be governed. It is honorable and praiseworthy faith- fully to serve the people by helping to administer these laws. If the laws are not enforced the people are not well governed." The Public Library stands in the Public Library Common, next THE CLASS OF 1877 GATE, HARVARD COLLEGE. above the High School Building. The inscriptions provided for the library building are: "Built in gratitude to God, to His Son, Jesus Christ, and to the Holy Spirit;" the Ten Commandments, and "Thou shalt love thy neighbor as thyself." "Men, women, children, obey these laws. If 3^ou do, you will be happy; if you disobey them sorrow will come upon you." "It is noble to be pure; it is right to be honest; it is necessary to be temperate; it is wise to be industrious; but to know God, is best of all." The Manual Training School is next to the Public Library. The inscription over the entrance reads: "Work is one of the CAMBRIDGE, HARVARD COLLEGE AND MOUNT AUBURN. 105 greatest blessings; every one should have an honest occupation." It is a thoroughly equipped training school for boys and youths in all branches of the mechanic arts, including carpentry and joining, blacksmithing, wood-turning and pattern-making, iron- fitting, machine-shop practice, and mechanical drawing. The school has been supported by Mr. Rindge since its foundation. Mr. Rindge's gifts have reached a total value of a million dollars. At the entrance to Quincy Square, where Harvard Street and Massachusetts Avenue meet, are Quincy Hall, on the right, and Beck Hall, on the left, two of the numerous private dormitories outside the college grounds. Quincy Street, opening at the right, marks the western limit of the grounds of Harvard College. On this street the President's house faces. The corner place, on the yard side, was originally the Dana mansion-house, built in 1823, by the family of Chief Justice Francis Dana. In this house the first Harvard Astronomical observatory was established in 1839, when a revolving dome was erected on the cupola for the telescope. Astronomical work was regularly done here until 1844, when the present observatory, on Craigie Hill, was built. The President's house is the next above the Dana house. Nearly opposite the President's house, on Quincy Street, is the Colonial Club house. On the southeast corner of Quincy Street and Broadway, is the Agassiz house, where Louis Agassiz lived the latter part of his years in Cambridge. This house was built for Professor Agassiz by the college. On the southeast corner of Kirkland Street, where Quincy Street ends, is the old house of President Jared Sparks, now occupied by the New-Church Theological School, its grounds extending from Cambridge to Kirkland Streets. The entrances to the college yard from Massachusetts Avenue are a few rods above Quincy Square, through the west gate, erected in 1890 from a bequest of $10,000 by Samuel Johnston. It has various interesting tablets and inscriptions. On the street front, wrought in the iron-work of the arch, above the central portal, appears the cross. On the pillars on either side are carved the seals of the Commonwealth and the college, and on tablets set in the walls are cut the following facts of history: 106 GUIDE TO BOSTON. This from an old Pamphlet entitled "New England's First Fruits in Respect of the Progress of Learning in the College at Cam- bridge in Massachusetts Bay." The pamphlet was published in London in 1643, and gives the earliest account of the founding of Harvard: "After God had carried us safe to New England and wee had builded our houses provided necessaries for our livili hood reared convenient places for God's worship and settled the civill government one of the next things we longed for and looked after was to advance learning and perpetuate it to posterity dreading to leave an illiterate ministery to the churches when our present ministers shall lie in the dust." In the north wall: "By the General Court of Massachusetts Bay 28 October 1636, Agreed to give 400 £ towards a schole or colledge whearof 200 £ to be paid next yeare & 200 £ when the worke is finished & the next Court to appoint wheare & wt bvilding 15 November 1637. The Colledge is ordered to bee at Newe Towne 2 May 1638 It is ordered that Newe Towne Shall henceforward be called Cambridge 15 March 1638 It is ordered that the colledge Agreed vpon formerly to bee built at Cambridge Shallbee called Harvard Colledge." On the pillars on the yard side are the seal of the city of Cam- bridge and the giver's name. Entering the Quadrangle, and crossing it to the north gate, we may see on our left: Wadsworth House, most interesting and picturesque of landmarks on this side of the yard, broad and deep, with gambrel roof, dormer windows, early colonial style of finish, embellished entrance porch at the sidewalk edge. It dates from 1726. Wadsworth House was used for one hundred and twenty-three years as the home of the presidents of Harvard, and at one time was Washington's headquarters. Beyond Wadsworth house, on the left, the most interesting buildings are: Dane Hall, the old Law School building, dating CAMBRIDGE, HARVARD COLLEGE AND MOUNT AUBURN. 107 from 1832, and occupied by the school until the erection of Aus- tin Hall, outside the yard. Now Dane Hall is used by the Harvard Co-operative Society, an association of officers and students which supplies books and stationery to members of the University; Gray's Hall, a dormitory building; Matthew's Hall, another dor- mitory; Massachusetts Hall, dating from 1720, and boasting a long list of former occupants who have become famous in one THE JOHNSTON GATE, HARVARD COLLEGE. way or another, whose names appear on the bronze tablets in the entry as follows: "William Ellery, 1747, signer Declaration of Independence. Artemas Ward, 1743, commander Massachusetts forces, 1775. Robert Treat Paine, 1751, signer Declaration of Independence. William Gushing, 1751, chief justice of Massachusetts. John Lowell, 1760, chief justice United States Circuit Court. Elbridge Gerry, 1762, Vice-President of the United States. Francis Dana, 1762, first minister to Russia. Theophilus Parsons, 1769, chief justice of Massachusetts. Joseph Story, 1798, justice of Supreme Court of the United States. Charles Henry Davis, 1825, admiral of the United States Navy. Robert Gould Shaw, 1860, soldier." "Mather Byles, 1751, clergyman and wit. Jeremy Belknap, 1762, clergyman and historian. lOS GUIDE TO BOSTON. Samuel Oilman, 1811, author of "Fair Harvard." James Walker, 1814, president of Harvard College and historian. Jared Sparks, 1815, president of Harvard College and liistorian. John G. Palfrey, 1815, professor and historian. George Bancroft, 1817, statesman and historian. Horatio Greenough, 1825, sculptor. Richard Hildreth, 1826, historian. Francis Parkman, 1844, historian. Phillips Brooks, 1855, bishop of Massachusetts," The tablet on the face of the building is thus incribed: "Massachusetts Hall. Built by the Province 1720. Occupied by the American Army 1775-1776 Used for students' rooms until 1870-71." Coming next on the left are: Harvard Hall, built in 1765; Hollis, 1763; Holden Chapel, 1744; Stoughton Hall, 1805; Hol- worthy Hall, 1812. On the right are: Boylston Hall; Gore Hall, built in 1841, containing the library of about 400.000 volumes; Wild Hall, dor- mitory; Univer- sity Hall; Seaver Hall, the finest of the recitation and lecture halls; Ap- pleton Chapel, built by the Ap- pleton family, of Boston, as a me- morial of Samuel Appleton, of Bos- ton, one of the university's bene- factors; Thayer Hall, dormitory; PHILLIPS BROOKS HOUSE, HARVARD ^^^^ "^W Semitic COLLEGE. Museum, and the CAMBRIDGE, HARVARD COLLEGE AND MOUNT AUBURN. 109 new Architectural Building. The Fogg Art Museum, facing the street, is close at hand. This was a gift from Mrs. Elizabeth Fogg, of New York. It contains lecture and exhibition halls, in w^iich are collections of casts, electrotypes of coins, Greek vases, and Italian renaissance work. Sections in plaster of the Par- thenon frieze form the frieze of the main hall. The museum is open to the public daily, including Sunday afternoons. The north gate, in general character with the west gate, though less elaborate in style, was a gift of George Von L. ARCHITECTURE BUILDING, HARVARD COLLEGE. Meyer, ot Boston. Leaving the yard by this gate, we cross to stately Memorial Hall, on the delta opposite, with Daniel C. Franch's bronze statue of John Harvard in the open space at the side. Memorial Hall, wath Sander's Theatre, is the monu- ment of Harvard graduates to comrades who fell in the Civil War. It was built in 1873-76. Sander's Theatre is named from a former steward of the college, who left a bequest to the insti- tuion. The hall is west of the tower, which rises two hundred feet above the building; the theatre is on the east. In the Memorial Transept are marble tablets bearing the names of the 110 GUIDE TO BOSTON. graduates and students who lost their lives in the war. Memorial Hall is now used as a dining-hall for the students. Its walls are adorned with protraits by Copley, Stuart, and other American painters, and with busts of men who were identified with the college. The bust of Longfellow is a replica of the one in West- minster Abbey. At the end is a stained-glass window, with the, arms of the Republic, the State, and the University. Sander's Theatre is a semi-circular hall which seats 1500 persons. It is where graduation and classday exercises are held. The marble statue of Josiah Quincy is by Story, and the beautiful stained- glass window, representing "Fame," is by John LaFarge. Leaving Memorial Hall by the north door, and taking the path at the right to Kirkland Street, turn into Divinity Avenue, and a short walk brings us to the Divinity School buildings on the right side, and the museums on the left. The different miuse- ums are all open to the public. The buildings cover three sides of the quadrangle, on which old Divinity faces. The Peabody Museum of American Archaeology and Ethnology occupies the south wing of the great structure, fronting on Divinity Avenue; the Museum of Comparative Zoology, with its laboratories, occu- pies the north wing, facing the quadrangle, and a part of the west wing, fronting on Oxford Street; the Botanical Museum forms the central part of the Oxford Street front; and the Mineralogi- cal Museum is in the same section. There are many other buildings which are connected with the university, among which may be mentioned: The Jefferson Physical Laboratory; Austin Hall; the Law School Building; the Lawrence Scientific School; the Hemenway Gymnasium; the Phillips Brooks House, recently erected as a memorial to Bishop Brooks, and serving as a centre for the religious work of the college; Radcliffe College, on Garden Street, the Harvard "An- nex" for women; and several fine dormitory buildings. The Harvard Medical School is now housed in the new build- ings on Longwood Avenue adjoining the Fenway. In the architectural development of the Back Bay region of Boston no other work has yet been done comparable in beauty and signifi- cance with the new buildings of this School. The five white marble structures, enclosing three sides of a great quadrangle. 112 GUIDE TO BOSTON. constitute an architectural group of very unusual importance, nobly symbolizing the purposes for which they have been erected. Harvard has built a group of buildings unique for their purpose in that no one of them is a reflection of earlier and partly antiquated equipment, nor by any possibility is likely soon to become so; and it has provided America with the finest existing "plant" for training students in this important profes- sion. Besides the large number of departments here described. Harvard has schools of Dentistry and Agriculture in Boston. The Arnold Arboretum, mentioned under "Parks and Play grounds," is its botanical garden; and it is planned soon to erect, on land facing Back Bay Fens, a large biological school and laboratories. On The Common, which is across Massachusetts Avenue, opposite the college grounds, may be seen the Soldiers' Monu- ment and a statue of John Bridge, the Puritan, whose services to the colony are set forth in the inscriptions on the statue. The cannon grouped about the Soldiers' Monument are historic. They were captured by Ethan Allen, at Crown Point, in 1775. Washington, the following winter, dispatched General Henry Knox to bring them across country to Cambridge, on two great sleds, drawn by eight yokes of oxen. They were employed on the American redoubts on Dorchester Heights, in the siege of Boston. Two of them are English guns bearing the broad arrow mark; the other is of French make, and was probably captured at Quebec in 1745. The Old Burying Ground, or, as it was once called, "God's Acre," lies just south of the Common between the two old churches, the First Parish, on the avenue, and Christ Church, on Garden Street. It contains the graves or tombs of first settlers, early ministers, presidents of the college, and others. Among the early settlers buried here were Stephen Daye, who set up the first printing-press, and Major-General Daniel Gookin, the associate of John Eliot in his work among the Indians. Near the Garden Street corner is the Vassall Monument, with the armorial bearings, the figures of a vase and the sun The First Parish Church, built in 1833, is the successor of the first meeting-house of the town. CAMBRIDGE, HARVARD COLLEGE AND MOUNT AUBURN. 113 Christ Church, the first Protestant Episcopal Church in the town, was opened in 1761. During the Revolution it was used for barracks. At that time the organ pipes were melted into bullets. Washington attended service in this church during his stay here in the winter of 1775. The interior, with its decora- tions and mural monuments, is interesting. In the vestibule is a revolutionary bullet-mark. The Vassall tomb built by Henry Vassall, is marked by a low mound in the floor. It was finally sealed in 1865, when it contained ten coffins. A few steps along Garden Street is the Washington Elm. The old monarch now appears worn and feeble. It bears a tablet with Longfellow's familiar inscription, "Under this tree Wash- ington first took command of the American Army, July 3d, 1775." Along Garden Street about half a mile are the Astro- nomical Observatory, just above Bond Street, and the Botanic Garden, on Linntcan Street, on the opposite side. The garden (founded in 1805) is open to the public between certain hours daily. It covers about seven and a half acres, and embraces the herbarium, established by Dr. Asa Gray, and a large conserva- tory. These departments of the University are worth a visit if one is spending some time in Cambridge. From the Old Elm turn into ]\Iason Street and cross to Brattle Street. Just around the turn from Mason Street are the buildings of St. John's Theological School (Epis- copalian). Turning to the right, on Brattle Street, you enter the old Tory Row of Provincial days. "This was then," says Bacon, "the exclusive quarter of the town, as It is now one of the most attractive parts of the city. Loyalists owned and occupied almost every estate bordering on this street between Brattle Square, where it begins, and Mount Auburn. Their estates were expansive and elegant, with gardens and or- chards, extending to the river. There were seven families of them connected by relationship, and they composed a 'select social circle to which few others were admitted.' " When the Revolution broke out all of the occupants of the Row became refugees and their mansions were confiscated by the Provincial Government. Of these mansions, two or three, besides the Longfellow and Lowell houses, yet remain. The first is the Gen- 114 GUIDE TO BOSTON. ENTRANCE TO MT. AUBURN CEMETERY. eral William Brattle house, near Brattle Square, now occupied by the Social Union. On the corner of Hawthorne Street is the Henry Vassall House, built early in the eighteenth century. Across the way is the stately Colonel John Vassall House, headquar- ters of Washington while in Cambridge; after the war for a while the dwelling of Nathaniel Tracy, from Newburyport; then occupied by Thomas Russell; then the dwelling of Andrew Cragie, who maintained it magnificently; in later periods lived in by Edward Everett, Jared Sparks, Joseph Worcester, the lexi- cographer; and from 1835 to the death of the poet, the home of Longfellow. The public ground which the mansion-house faces, was reserved through the efforts of the Longfellow Memorial Association. Over and beyond a view of the marshes and the river, which the poet has celebrated, with the Longfellow Park on the Brighton side of the stream, given by Longfellow and others, in 1870, to Harvard, to be developed into an ornamental pleasure-ground. The next house in the "Row" was the Richard Lechmere house, occupied at the outbreak of the war by Jonathan Sewall. attorney-general of the Province. This house stood first on. CAMBRIDGE, HARVARD COLLEGE AND MOUNT AUBURN. 115 Sparks Street, but it was moved in later years to its present site. It was occupied by General Riedesel and his wife, after the sur- render of Burgoyne. The second house from the corner of Appleton Street is the Judge Joseph Lee house, one of the oldest houses in Cambridge. It is believed to have been built before the days of Charles II. The end of Tory Row is reached at Elmwood Avenue, w^here our interest centres in Elmwood, the old mansion-house, built in 1760 or thereabouts, by Thomas Oliver, the royal lieutenant-governor of 1774, and for many years the home of the Lowell family. It was here that James Russel was born, and here he died. Continuing along Brattle Street, we reach Mount Auburn Cemetery, interesting not only because of the great dead who are resting here, but also because of its location, environment and natural beauty. It is impossible to think of Cambridge and Harvard without having Mount Auburn also in view, and at least a part of the day assigned to Cambridge and its attractions should be kept for this quiet spot. The entrance is at the junc- tion of Mount Auburn and Brattle Streets, Watertown. The grounds contain over thirty miles of avenues and paths, and half a day would be too short a time to visit the most distinguished among its thousands of graves. The grounds are beautified by many trees, flowers and shrubs, and costly sculptures and statuary are to be seen on all hands. Passing through the Egyp- tian entrance gate a short distance a turn to the left leads to the Longfellow sarcophagus, on Indian Ridge Path, and close at hand is the tomb of Motley. The grave of Oliver W. Holmes is just beyond, on Lime Avenue, and on Fountain Avenue, at the base of Indian Ridge, under tall pines is the grave of James Rus- sel Lowell. To the right of the gate a curving main avenue leads past the Ball Hughes's bronze statue of Nathaniel Bowditch to the mortuary chapel, in which are the marble statues designed to represent the Colonial and Revolutionary periods, the Re- public, and Law; the first, a sitting figure of John Winthrop, by Horatio Greenough; the second, a standing figure of James Otis, by Thomas Crawford; the third, John Adams, by Randolph Rogers; the fourth. Judge Joseph Story, by his son, William W. 116 GUIDE TO BOSTON. Story. In front of the chapel, beyond, is the granite Sphinx, by Martin Milmore, which commemorates the dead of the Civil War, with this inscription: "American Union preserved American slavery destroyed By the uprising of a great people By the blood of fallen heroes." A short distance from the chapel to the right, on Menoza Path, is the grave of the "Good Bishop," Phillips Brooks. On Spruce Avenue Anson Burlingame and Dr. Thomas G. Morton, the dis- coverer of ether, are buried. On Walnut Avenue may be found the graves of Rufus Choate and N. P. Willis. On Greenbriar Path is William Ellery Channing's grave. On Sweetbriar Path are the graves of Josiah Quincy and John G. Palfrey. In the neighborhood of the tower, is the monument to Margaret Fuller. The grave of Agassiz, on Bellwort Avenue, marked by a granite boulder from the glacier of the Aar in Switzerland; the graves of Charles Sumner, on Arethusa Path, leading from Walnut Avenue; of Edwin Booth, on Anemone Path; of Charlotte Cush- man, on Palm Avenue; of Edward Everett, on Magnolia Avenue, are each of interest to many who visit Mount Auburn. The cemetery may be reached by the Fitchburg Division of the Boston and Main System (Watertown Branch), from the North Union Station, and by trolley via Harvard Square. Fresh Pond is another pleasant spot which is close to Mount Auburn. It is a part of the Metropolitan Park System. The Pond is encircled by a beautiful driveway, three miles in length. THE HARBOR AND BEACHES. The irregular shores converging from Cape Ann on the northeast and from Cape Cod on the southeast toward Boston, washed by the waters of the island-strewn bay, constitute an almost unbroken chain of summer resorts in either direction. The public park au- thorities, not content with providing a harbor playground and bathing beach and a large marine park for the city, have secured great sweeps of beach along the shores and have made them pleas- ure places where no undesirable features may intrude. It has been asserted that no city in the world, with the exception of Venice, has made as good use of the facilities offered for recreation upon harbor waters as Boston. The islands of the bay are, with few ex- ceptions, owned by the city, state, and national governments. Sev- enty-five of these islands dot the bay, and the steamers which ply between the city and outlying points move in and out among them in a way which adds much to the interest of those standing upon their decks. Rocky shores, sandy beaches, green islands, grim fortresses, picturesque cottages, all these help to form the panorama of Boston Harbor. THE NORTH SHORE. Winthrop, nearest to the city of all the North Shore re- sorts, is reached in a few minutes by the Winthrop branch of the Boston, Revere Beach and Lynn Railroad ferry station at 350 Atlantic Avenue, foot of High Street. Many of Boston's busi- ness men have their summer homes in this convenient place. Its principal attractions are the fine ocean views, especially the one from Great Head — the high blufif at the southern extremity of the peninsula — and the beach which is a part of the Metropolitan Park System. The United States government has powerful bat- teries on the heights and at Grovers Cliff. These batteries com- mand the entrance to the bay. 117 THE HARBOR AND BEACHES. il9 Revere Beach, "The new American Brighton," is a gently sloping sandy beach offering unexcelled opportunities for bathing and an inspiring view of the open sea. The beach is nearly three miles long and terminates at the north in Point of Pines — a resort with fine hotels. This magnificent stretch of shore is controlled by the Metropolitan Park Commission. Along the crest of the beach is a driveway, with bordering promenades where thousands may enjoy cool breezes and the ocean view, without the discomforts of overcrowding. Shelters, bath-houses for surf-bathing, a bicycle storage shed, and a police station occupy convenient points. Dressing rooms to the number of 1,700 are provided, and over 7,000 men and women have used them in one day. There is little doubt that this is one of the most popular of the sea shore re- sorts of Massachusetts. Revere Beach is most directly reached by the Boston, Revere Beach and Lynn Railroad, ferry station at 350 Atlantic Avenue, foot of High Street. Nahant, a rocky promontory almost surrounded by water, tied to the main land at Lynn by a narrow string of beach, is the oldest of the North Shore resorts. It may be reached by trolley, via the Lynn and Boston cars starting from Scollay Square; by the Boston, Revere Beach and Lynn Railroad; or, most directly, by steamers of the Bass Point Line from Lincoln Wharf, Atlantic Avenue. After leaving the wharf, these steamers afford a view at the left, of the navy yard and the East Boston steamship docks, and, passing between Governor's Island on the right and Apple Island on the left, enter the narrow channel known as Shirley PHOTO BY COOLIDGE. A GLIMPSE OF BOSTON HARBOR. 120 GUIDE TO BOSTON. KEV] Gut, between Deer Island and Point Shirley. Now at the left may be seen Winthrop and Revere Beaches and Point of Pines. The steamers land passengers at Bass Point, Nahant, a popular excursion resort. The pleasant part of Nahant, however, is at the eastern extremity of the peninsula. The walk around the cliffs affords the best opportunity to enjoy the beauties of Na- hant. On the extreme point the clifT path passes through the grounds of Hon. Henry Cabot Lodge, from whence can be seen the white line of Nahant Beach. A very pleasant little excursion may be had by taking one of the numerous coaches from Nahant over to Lynn and returning to Bos- ton via the Revere Beach and Lynn Railroad, which passes through Point of Pines, Revere Beach, etc. THE HARBOR AND BEACHES. 121 iCH. Beyond Nahant are Swampscott, with its beautiful beaches; Mar- blehead, Salem, Beverly, Manchester, Magnolia and Glouceuter. Salem Willows may be reached by steamer direct from Bos- ton. Here a fine fish dinner may be had at one of the numerous restaurants. A direct line of steamers also runs between Boston and Gloucester. THE SOUTH SHORE. Thesteamersfortheprincipal South Shore resorts leave Rowe's Wharf, 340 Atlantic Avenue, Boston, and follow the main ship chan- nel as far as George's island and then diverge to the right for Hull, Nantasket, and Hingham; they afiford an excellent opportunity to see the harbor. As the steamer leaves the wharf, the docks of East 122 GUIDE TO BOSTON. Boston are on the left and on the right appear in succession, the freight terminals, elevators and factories of South Boston, then Marine Park and Castle Island. On Castle Island is Fort In- dependence, erected in 1705 and still owned and used by the United States, though it is worthless as a fort. Across the chan- nel from Castle Island, on the left of the steamer, is Governor's Island, which was granted to Governor Winthrop in 1632 and re- mained in possession of the Winthrop family until 1808, when it was purchased by the United States Government. Fort Win- throp, on this island, and Fort Independence, are now used by the government as supply depots, for modern long-range guns render them practically useless as defences for the city. Beyond Governor.'s Island may be seen Deer Island with the House of Industry, Girls' Reformatory, Truant School, etc. These are all city institutions. The broad channel through which the vessel is now passing is called President Roads. On the right, beyond Castle Island, may be seen Thompson's Island, on which is the farm school, and just south of this Spectacle Island, occupied by factories. Now the steamer enters a narrow channel passing Long Island, which has a light house and sea wall and a government battery. Here is also a home for female paupers. On Nix's Mate, a low rocky BOSTON LIGHT. THE HARBOR AND BEACHES. 123 island, just south of Long Island is a beacon built many years ago to warn approaching vessels of the dangerous shoals in the harbor. It is said that pirates were hanged here when it was an island of several acres. Most of the island has been washed away, in ful- fillment — so the legend goes — of a prophecy made by the mate who was hanged here for the murder of his captain, that, as proof of his innocencetheisland would gradually disappear. The steam- er passes between Long Island and Gallop's Island — on the latter are the hospital buildings of the quarantine station — and then be- tween Rainsford's Island, on the right, and George's Island, on the left. Rainsford's Island is occupied by the buildings of the City Almshouse. George's Island, on which Fort Warren is built, commands the main ship channel and the approach to the harbor. During the Civil War thousands of Confederate prisoners were confined here. The fort, built in 1833, has a heavy armament and modern defenses, which would render it a real protection to the city in case of an attempted invasion. It has a strong torpedo armament. To the east and northeast of George's Island, further down the harbor are other islands. Just north of the main ship channel, at the entrance to the harbor, is Brewster's Island, on which is Boston Light. Bug Light is at the end of a long sandy spit stretch- HULL, FROM PEDDOCKS LANDING. 124 GUIDE TO BOSTON. ing west from Great Brewster. Beyond Fort Warren the steamer is soon at Pemberton's Landing, in the town of Hull. Hull, of which Nantasket forms a part, is now a busy sum- mer resort with hotels, cottages, and yacht clubs. On Telegraph Hill, which has been seen from the steamer, are the remains of a fort planned by Lafayette and also a United States government bat- tery. From Point Allerton there is a fine view of the harbor and ocean. From Hull the steamer follows an inland channel to Nan- tasket Beach, though many prefer to leave the steamer at Hull and proceed to Nantasket by trolley, Nantasket Beach is about four miles long. It is one of the finest beaches on the Atlantic coast. The shore on the seaward side offers unexcelled opportunities for bathing, while its inland side is a fine place for boating. Nantasket Beach is a long sandy tongue of landprojectingnorthwardfromthemainlandof the South Shore. The Metropolitan Park Commissioners have secured the greater part of this beach and adjoining lands and is doing here what it has done for Revere Beach. Jerusalem Road, one of the famous roads of New England, is also to be taken as a boulevard by this Commission. The Nantasket Steamboat Company sells tickets from Boston to Pemberton and thence to Nantasket via boat or by the "third rail." This latter route affords the stranger a much better chance to see the cottages and other attractions along the beach. If one so de- sires, he may continue on the "third rail" system until Braintree is reached and return to Boston via the N. Y., N. H. and H. Rail- way, or by trolley through Quincy and Neponset. Just across the inner bay from Nantasket and reached by steamer, lies Crow Point, formerly known as Downer's Land- ing. The shore is lined with many summer cottages and the drives from this point are very picturesque and beautiful. At the head of the harbor is Hingham, a quaint old town with many pleasant drives and fine views. From Prospect Hill one oi the grandest and most comprehensive panoramas stretches out on every hand, embracing shore and headlands, harbor and shipping. The old meeting house, undoubtedly the oldest in New England, and still occupied by the First Society, was built in or about 1660. It is a two-story edifice, with a pyramidal roof, from the centre of which rises a grotesque belfry and spire. ■mm:^m:\ 126 GUIDE TO BOSTON. All of the towns and landings on the South Shore thus far men- tioned may be reached by trolley and also by the N. Y., N. H. & H. Railway. South of Nantasket, on the mainland is Cohasset; it may be reached from Nantasket by carriage drive over the Jerusa- lem Road. It is reached from Boston by the N. Y., N. H. & H. Railway. Ofif Cohasset's rocky shore is the famous Minot's Ledge Lighthouse, which was built in i860 to replace one de- stroyed by a storm in 1851. Scituate is close to Cohasset, and like the latter is reached by the Jerusalem Road and the N. Y., N. H. & H. Railway. A few miles beyond we come to Marshfield, the town where Daniel Webster had his summer home; it is a quiet shore town, enjoyable for its fishing, hunting and yachting. Duxbury, once the home of John A 1 d e n. Elder Brewster, and Captain Miles Standish, is one of the oldest towns of the Plymouth Col- ony. On Cap- tain's Hill stands the round-stone tower, erected as a memorial to Miles Standish, whose home was close to the hill. Plymouth is reached by a steamer which makes a round trip daily from Boston, passing out of Boston Harbor and along the South Shore. ..L- m COLE'S BLACKSMITH SHOP, PLYMOUTH. Built in 1686. WK^. Z^ ■ ^hP^^^M ^^^^^ 43^' 'HBI^T^-^^Siite^^'^^'i^^ IJ^HH^^^^^^^Nfe^^^^^^^ . '*'': ' -K^^-^'I^^PW -■■v:|^^. :: .:. ■ - ^ "iiii. M K^iiV^Ri ^ ^ i II mM> iTi i ^^^iSilVP'' » C ^p^^^i '^'j' '^I^Bri ^^Qm^- ^«fe^f:p*^ ^^^H |lte:«-|«?: ^^^0 -' '•' ^i^fJ^i^'-'*'¥?''l' • . ■ :^r--':^*^'''' ''"' -«r*:"^tm#Jj:<^.»^ 128 GUIDE TO BOSTON. It may also be reached by trolley via Whitman or Brock- ton and by Plymouth division of N. Y., N. H. & H. Railway. Those who read these pages will need no historical sketch of Plym- outh. A picture of its early days is indelibly fixed in the mind of every boy and girl who studies the history of this country. Of its attractions as a summer resort much might be said, and in this aspect it is already known to thousands who have enjoyed its health- ful climate, charming views, its woods and hills. The first object for which the visitor will ask would naturally be Plymouth Rock, upon which the disembarking Pilgrims stepped. Carefully pro- tected by a stone canopy, it will remain through coming ages, a shrine to which loyal Americans will turn with reverent interest. The most conspicuous object in the town is the National Monu- ment, erected through the efforts of the Pilgrim bociety. A statue symbolizing "Faith," 36 feet in height, a gift of Hon. Oliver Ames, stands with uplifted arm upon a pedestal 45 feet high. On each corner of the pedestal is a seated statue emblematic of the principles upon which the Pilgrims desired to found their government. The first, "Morality," was the gift of Massachusetts. The bas-relief representing the embarkation at Delftshaven was given by Con- necticut. The statue of "Education," and the bas-relief "Signing the Compact," were gifts of Hon. Roland Mather, of Hartford. The statues representing "Liberty" and "Law" were the offering of the United States Government. Two remaining bas-reliefs rep- resent "The Landing of the Pilgrims," and the "First Treaty with the Indians." The Monument grounds are on Cushman Street. They afford fine views of the harbor and surrounding landscape. In Pilgrim Hall, on Court Street, is a collection of pictures, furniture, documents, and many other objects to delight the soul of the antiquarian. The large paintings on the walls of the museum represent scenes in Pilgrim history. Burial Hill is one of the most sightly places in the town. Here was erected the rude fort which served as a meeting-house, where the colonists, armed and ready for any emergency, met to worship. In the old burying ground are the graves of Governor Bradford and many other Pilgrims. At the foot of the hill is the Court House, where the visitor may view the will of Miles Standish and many other interesting documents. It was on f THE HARBOR AND BEACHES. 129 Cole's Hill that the colonists who died during that terrible first winter were buried. On Clark's Island, in the harbor, an exploring party from the Mayflower spent Sunday and worshipped on the day before the landing. A boulder on the island, called Pulpit Rock, bears these words: "On the Sabboth Day wee rested." Tourists who are fond of the water will find the trip to Prov- incetown a very delightful one, as it affords one about eight hours on the water, the boat sailing directly across Massachusetts Bay, and being at times nearly out of sight of land. Passengers are allowed an hour or two to stroll around the quaint Cape Cod town. During the summer months the boat leaves daily from the wharf of the Bay Line on Atlantic Avenue. TROLLEY TRIPS FROM THE HUB. A much larger book than this might be filled with suggestions for those who would see even half of the interesting places lying within reach of the trolley systems which cover Eastern Massa- chusetts with their network. There is little doubt that the city of Boston offers greater attractions in the way of trolley rides than any other city in this country. The trolley lines within the city, and the elevated road are un- der one management, and the whole service is known as the Boston Elevated Railway System. Through its various connec- tions with the northeast, it is possible to reach the resorts of the North Shore, and of the New Hampshire and Maine coasts, to the north and northwest, to explore Northern Massachusetts and the Granite State; to the west, to penetrate to the very heart of the Commonwealth; on the southwest, to reach as far as Providence, Fall River and New- port; and, finally, the lines to the south and southeast lead to the resorts of the "South Shore" and Cape Cod. The district which is known as Metropolitan Boston lies with- in the bounds of a twelve-mile radius from the State House. It includes within its limits thirty-eight towns and cities, Boston Bay and its seventy-five islands; some of the finest beaches on the coast; the great Blue Hills forest; the Stony Brook woods; the lovely chain of public parkways and parks of Boston; the rich preserve of the Middlesex Fells; Lynn Woods, one of the largest public domains belonging to any city in the United States, and the basins of the Mystic, Charles and Neponset rivers. It is proposed here to indicate some trips in which the point farth- est from Boston would come within the scope of a day's ex- cursion from the city. Not all of the places mentioned in these routes could be visited in one day, but the leading attractions of (130) TROLLEY TRIPS. 131 each are given, and the visitor may choose that which appeals to him. I. ALONG THE NORTH SHORE TO CAPE ANN. Our first route begins in Scollay Square, where we take a Bos- ton and Lynn car, and stretches away to the northeast towards old Cape Ann. It includes Chelsea, Revere, Lynn, Nahant, Swampscott, Marblehead, Salem, Peabody, Danvers, Beverly and Gloucester. The car soon reaches Chelsea, once called Winnisimmet, which formerly included Revere and Winthrop. It was made part of Boston in 1634, set off as a separate town under its present name in 1739, and organized as a city in 1837. The greater part of the town was once owned by Richard Bellingham, later governor of the Colony. The ferry between Boston and Chelsea, touching at Charlestown, was the first ferry in New England, having been established in 1631. The city now has a population of about 34,000. Chelsea may be reached from Boston by ferry from the foot of Hanover Street, or by trolley through Charlestown, crossing both the Charles and Mystic Rivers. A Broadway car runs nearly the entire length of the city and close to Powder Horn Hill, two hundred and twenty feet high, from which a wide view of city and ocean may be obtained. Aside from this hill, the summit of which is occupied by the Soldiers' Home, where between 300 and 400 veterans of the Civil War find a com- fortable retreat, the principal point of interest is the United States Naval Hospital, built in 1827, and situated in a pleasant park of seventy-five acres overlooking the Mystic River. From Chelsea the car runs along Broadway with a connecting line on the left to Maiden, and one on the right to Revere Beach. (See "The Harbor and Beaches.") The main line stretches across great salt marshes and inlets of the bay, from which extended views of the water may be enjoyed, over the Saugus River drawbridge to Lynn. Lynn is the centre of several important electric railways, and from here pleasant trips may be taken in many directions. Lynn of to-day is a city of factories, but it is old enough to be classed with the antiquities, for under its old name, Saugus, it was set- tled m 1637. One should not leave Lynn without seeing the 132 GUIDE TO BOSTON. Soldiers' Monument on The Common, the Old Hawthorne house, now used as a hospital, and the old burying-grounds. "To-day," says Miss Abbott, "the world at large knows less of the glories of Lynn's environs than of her latest achievement in shoes. The ocean breaks on her curving line of coast. The lawns of beautiful homes almost touch the blue sea along Ocean Street. Lynn has invaluable possessions for coming centuries in her beach reservation — Lynn Beach — between Washington and Nahant Streets, and in Lynn Woods are the largest pleasure grounds owned by any city in the country, in proportion to population." Lynn Woods is a little west of the city, and it is reached by trolley. (See page 59.) Con- nections may be made to Wakefield, Reading and Lowell, over the same route without change of cars. Nahant Beach is reached by a short trip by trolley from Central Square, or the railway station. (See "The Harbor and Beaches.") Swampscott is reached by a line running along the shore from Lynn. After leaving Central Square, Lynn, the tracks enter the highway on Broad and Lewis Streets. On the left a beautiful farming country discloses restful views, with glimpses of Para- dise Road winding through the woodland. On the right the eye is charmed by sandy beaches, bold rocks, and the blue waters of the sea. A mile beyond Swampscott, after passing Beach Bluff and Clifton Heights, the car enters quaint Marblehead, older than Boston or Salem, and here there is much to make one tarry. Every nook and corner has its history, and the gray wharves, the winding, narrow streets with the houses standing cornerwise, the old-fashioned gardens, all possess a fascination which is well-nigh irresistible. You must not fail to visit the Barying Hill. Here, while strolling under the twisted old trees, pausing now and then to read an epitaph on some weather-beaten slate, you may gaze across the dismantled fort to the shimmering, sail- dotted waters of the bay. Then there are St. Michael's Church, the Town House, built in 1727; the Fountain Inn; the Agnes Surriage Well, all these are objects of interest. The homestead of Elbridge Gerry, one of the signers of the Declaration of In- dependence, is still standing. Near the road to Marblehead TROLLEY TRIPS. 133 Neck is Cow Fort, one of the Revolutionary defences, and near the Lynn and Boston car houses is the site of an old Indian fort. Salem is reached directly from Lynn by a Lynn and Salem car, which runs through upper Swampscott, or, better still, from JMarblehead one may take a cross line to the "witch city." Leav- ing Lynn by the Boston and Lynn, the car passes along Lafayette Street, South Salem, through a section of beautiful homes to the terminus near Salem City Hall. How many claims to distinction this town can boast. To write of them all would require many pages. The Indian name of Naumkeag was changed to Salem when the English settlement was made here in 1628. The promise of peace implied in her name was not fulfilled during many years of her history. Do we not first think of Salem as the place where witches and Quakers were persecuted? In later years began that commercial activity which is her proudest title to fame. Her merchant ships were the first to float our flag in Russian ports, in Calcutta, Australia, Madagascar and Bombay. The fine old mansions of Provincial and Federal architecture still speak of the wealth and power of her sea merchants. ''From Salem Common, or Washington Square, near Union Street, lines drawn to three points of the compass will touch the birthplaces of Hawthorne, Prescott, the historian, and Bowditch, the navi- gator. The battle of the Chesapeake and Shannon was fought of¥ Salem shore and was witnessed by many from the near by hills." The places which should be seen are the Roger Williams house, on the corner of North and Essex Streets; the Shattuck house, 317 Essex Street; the Pickering house, 18 Broad Street, built in 1649; the house at 138 Federal Street, visited by Lafaye*:te in 1784, and by Washington in 1789; Hawthorne's birthplace, 21 Union Street; the House of the Seven Gables, 64 Turner Street; East India Marine Hall; the Essex Institute; the Salem Atheneum; Salem Town Hall; the Charter Street Burying- Ground; the Roger Williams Church, in the rear of the Athene- um, said to be the first church building erected in America; and Gallows Hill, at the head of Hanson Street, where those accused of witchcraft were executed. From Salem a side trip may be made to Peabody and Danvers. 134 GUIDE TO BOSTON. Although Peabody is the seat of morocco and other industries, it has preserved much of the charm of the olden time. In the square stands the monument in memory of the valiant minute- men. Near by is the site of the Bell Tavern and the ancient cemetery, and just beyond is the fine library, which Peabody owes to her distinguished son^ the philanthrophist and London banker, George Peabody. The portrait presented to Mr. Peabody by Queen Victoria is to be seen at the library, as well as the medal presented to him by Congress on account of his munificent gift of nearly two million dollars for the advancement of educa- tion in the South. Danvers, on the same line, beyond Peabody, was known of old as Salem Village. Those were the days when witches haunted this region of beautiful hills and dales, brooks and rivers. Dan- vers will show you the Rebecca Nurse Homestead, and, near by the monument erected in her memory, as one of the victims with Giles Cory, John Proctor, Rev. Mr. Burroughs and others who suffered death on Witch Hill; the ancient homestead of the Putnams, where General Israel Putnam was born, with the cham- ber containing the original furniture; the Governor Endicott house; Oak Knoll, the favorite home of Whittier; and Ferncroft Inn, the old Nicholls homestead. From Salem to Beverly the road leads over the Essex Bridge, from which beautiful views east and west may be had. The old First Parish Church, with a Paul Revere bell and an ancient clock, dating from 1770; the Historical Society occupying the mansion of John Cabot, dating from 1779, and the ancient bury- ing-grounds are each worth a visit. The section known as Beverly Farms is filled with beautiful summer homes, and among these is the one where Doctor Oliver W. Holmes passed his summers. Gloucester, settled in 1633, has ever been a famous fishing town. In reaching it the car passes over Squam River, which, at high tide, makes Cape Ann an island. On the right. Rocky Neck, Ten-Pound Island, and Eastern Point, with their lighthouses, are seen. The street railroad station is in the heart of the city, and from it car lines run north and south around the cape. A line runs from the station to Rocky Neck, East Gloucester, and an- TROLLEY TKIFS. 135 Other to Long Beach, both popular resorts, with sea bathing. Continuing beyond Gloucester the car, running through a region of charming views, passes Baitut Hill, where a magnifi- cent view of old Ocean is to be had. It takes in all the northern part of Massachusetts Bay. Descending the hill Cape Pond Grove, with fine grounds, is to be seen on the right, and now the car enters Rockport, climbing up streets with quaint old -houses, interspersed with modern summer cottages. Having passed through the business section of the town, the car soon brings you to Pigeon Cove and along the clififs overlooking the sea. The Cape Ann granite quarries are passed on the left. Pigeon Hill, at the end of the car line, is 200 feet above the level of the sea. On the summit, the coast line of Massachusetts, New Hampshire and part of Maine, the Isles of Shoals, the mountains of Maine, and the South Shore are spread out before you. II. THROUGH THE BEAUTIFUL MYSTIC VALLEY. A delightful trip may be arranged by combining the two routes which lead through the Mystic Valley. Taking a Medford car at Scollay Square or Union Station, the first route is through Charlestown and IMedford to Winchester. From Winchester the return is made by way of Arlington and Cambridge to the Subway stations. The order of these trips may, of course, be re- versed, according to convenience. Assuming that the order sug- gested is adopted, the car passes through Charlestown over Winter Hill. At the top of the hill the old Medford road, now Main Street, diverges to the right, and just here, on the right side, a stone tablet bears this interesting inscription: Paul Revere Rode over this road in his Midnight ride to Lexington and Concord April IS, 1775. Site of the "Winter Hill Fort, A stronghold built by the American forces while besieging Boston 1775-6. ,136 GUIDE TO BOSTON. From the summit, Main Street descends rapidly, and at the right a fine view of the Mystic and its meadows is disclosed. After passing Tufts Square, at the foot of the hill, we may catch a glimpse, on the left, of the Old Powder House, upon which Gage's soldiers made their raid, and a full view of the Tufts College buildings. On the right we pass the Mystic Park racing track, and the Mystic House, and, ascending a slight elevation, enter the outskirts of the thickly settled portions of the suburban city. Medford lies along the valley of the Mystic, and on the rising ground beyond, between College Hill, on the north, and the Mid- dlesex Fells highlands, on the south. It is subdivided into Old Medford, West Medford, Medford Hillside, and East Medford, the latter including Glenwood and Wellington. It was founded in 1630, and became a city in 1892. From early times down to 1873 it was a great ship-building place, but the pleasure craft on the river to-day bear little resemblance to the swift clippers which made the Medford yards famous. Medford rum has been manufactured here since 1735. Medford offers many pleas- ant walks, some leading through shaded streets marked now and then by quaint old buildings, and others, winding along the river, affording pleasant views of the stream coursing through the outspreading marshes, with the town rising above them. The "sights" of Medford may be summed up about as follows: The Royall mansion house, dating from 1738, now used as a museum, and well worth a visit, is one of the best examples of pure colon- ial architecture in the country; the Thatcher Magoun house, built by the first of the Mystic shipbuilders and now occupied bythe Public Library; the old Garrison house in Pasture Hill lane, the third house in the plantation, built before 1640 by Major Jonathan Wade, and used as a fort, the stout brick walls of the older part pierced by port-holes; the ancient burying-ground; the Craddock house, believed to be the oldest house in the coun- try now standing, built in 1634, and designed as a refuge and de- fense as well as dwelling; and the ancient Town Hall. At Medford Square a change is made to the Winchester car, and now the route lies through a region of fine farms to Win- chester, which a tablet on the clock tower of its town-house in- TROLLEY TRIPS. 137 forms us was "Waterfield, 1638 — Charlestown Village, 1640 — Winchester, 1850." The town is charmingly situated, and among its landscape features may be noted the pleasant elevations above the valley, the lake-like Upper Mystic Pond, Wedge Pond and Winter Pond, the Aberjona River, joining the Upper Mystic, tree-lined roads, and shady groves. The town forms the gateway to Middlesex Fells. (See page 60.) It is attractively built, and among its modern homes some old- fashioned family dwell- ings are seen. From Winchester a line runs north up the valley to Woburn, settled in 1630. This is another town blessed with historic traditions and associa- tions. It is famed as the birthplace of Benjamin Thompson, afterward Sir Benjamin, and later Count Rumford. In its public li- brary and art gallery, known as the Winn Me- morial, it possesses one of the best specimens of the architect Richardson's w^ork, and it has a number of historic houses. Wo- burn is locally divided into six sections: The Centre, Cum- mingsville. North Woburn, Mishawum, Walnut Hill, and Mont- vale. The Arlington car for the return trip is taken in Win- chester, and, on its way to the former place, passes to the right of the beautiful Mystic Lakes, seen as the car leaves Winchester. Arlington occupies a broad valley and picturesque hill slopes Its loftiest hill, Arlington Heights, commands a widely extended view; and Turkey Hill, the second in height, lies on the north THE COMMON, LEXINGTON. 138 GUIDE TO BOSTON. side. Its jewel is Spy Pond, one of the loveliest pieces of water in a region of pleasant ponds. From Arlington, the car passes along Massachusetts Avenue, through North Cambridge and Cambridge, passing Harvard Square, with the college buildings on the left, and back to the city over Harvard Bridge. III. CONCORD WAY. For this route to the northwest take an Arlington car at Park Street Subway, running over Harvard Bridge and through Cambridge; or a car may be taken at Sullivan Square terminal, or at Bowdoin Square. The latter runs through the west end of Boston, past the Charlesbank reservation over the West Boston Bridge to Cambridge. On the route from the subway, Massachusetts Avenue is followed past the City Hall to Harvard Square. As the car leaves Harvard Square the First Church, with the old burying-ground, is on the left, and be- yond are Christ Church and the Common. (See page 48.) Forty-five minutes after leaving Boston the car should enter Arlington. At Arlington Heights a change is made to the Lex- ington and Boston Street Railway car. This car runs through East Lexington to Lexington, an hour and ten minutes from Boston, where the tourist's interest centres about the "Green." To-day Lexington has many modern suburban homes, though it is still, to a great extent, an agricultural com- munity. Several large milk farms and vegetable gardens are in the outskirts. It is said that within the nineteen square miles of its area are over sixty miles of pleasant roads. The central village, of which the renowned "Green" is the center, occupies a plain two hundred and fifty feet above the sea, surrounded, with the exception of the northern and southeastern sides, by lovely hills. Of the latter, Granny's Hill, the loftiest, commands the most ex- tensive view; but pretty sweeps of landscape are to be enjoyed from all of them. The numerous historic spots, buildings and monuments are marked, and those about the "Green," or Lex- ington Common, as it is officially known, may be seen in a few minutes. The tablets give about all the history which is neces- TROLLEY TRIPS. 139 sary for our enjoyment of the trip. First to claim our attention is the Buckman Tavern with its simple story: Built 1690. Known as the Buckman Tavern A rendezvous of the Minute Men. A mark for British bullets April 19, 1775. Near the upper corner of the "Green" is the boulder which tells us that here was the Line of the Minute Men April 19, 1775. "Stand your ground Don't fire unless fired upon But if they mean to have a war Let it begin here." ^ Captain Parker. Just across the way is the House of Jonathan Harrington who, wounded on the Common April 19, 1775, dragged himself to the door and died at his wife's feet. On the west side of the Green is the vine-clad monument; and. again, the inscription is the only comment needed: Sacred to Liberty and the Rights of Mankind ! ! I The Freedom and Independence of America, Sealed and defended with the Blood of her Sons. This Monument is erected By the inhabitants of Lexington, under the Patronage & at the expense of The Commonwealth of Massachusetts, To the memory of their Fellow-Citizens, Ensign Robert Munroe, and Messrs. Jonas Parker. Samuel Hadley, Jonathan Harrington, Junr., Isaac Muzzy, Caleb Harrington and John Brown Of Lexington, and Asahel Porter, of Woburn, Who fell on this Field, the First Victims to the Sword of British Tyranny and Oppression, On the morning of the ever memorable Ninteeth of April, An. Dom. 1775. The Die v.as cast! ! ! The Blood of these Martyr's 140 GUIDE TO BOSTON. In the cause of God & their country Was the Cement of the Union of these States, then Colonies, and gave the spring to the spirit. Firmness And resolution of their Fellow-Citizens. Tney rose as one Man to revenge their brethren's Blood, and at the Point of the Sword, to assert & Defend their native Rights. They nobly dar'd to be free! ! The contest was long, bloody & affecting. Righteous Heaven approved the solemn appeal, Victory crowned their arms and The Peace, Liberty, and Independence of the United States of America, was their glorious Reward. Just below this monument, on the opposite side of the street, a slant-roofed house has this story: House of Marrett and Nathan Munroe built 1729 a witness of the battle. The last object on The Common to engage our attention is the stone pulpit on the site of the meeting-house, where the town's powder was stored on that April day when the redcoats came. Here is its record: Site of the first three meeting-houses of Lexington. No. 1. Built in 1692 when the town was a precinct of Cambridge. No. 2. Built in 1713 on the incorporation of Lexington. No. 3. Built in 1794. Burned in 1846. This spot is identified with the town's history for 150 years. The old Burying-Ground must claim our attention for a few minutes, and then we should give, at least, a half hour to the relics in Memorial Hall of the Town House. Over the arch at the entrance of the hall we read this inscription: Lexington consecrates this hall and its emblems to the memory of the founders and the sustainers of our free institutions. TROLLEY TRIPS. 141 Admission to this collection is free, and among the treasures are Major Pitcairn's pistols, captured on the day of the battle; the tongue of the bell which sounded the alarm when Paul Re- vere "rode into Lexington;" old flint-lock muskets, etc. In the Town Hall, above stairs, to which access can be had by asking in the Selectmen's Room, is Henry Sandham's spirited painting of the Battle of Lexington. Across the corridor is Library Hall, and the Cary Public Library, fostered by Mrs. Maria Gary. The trip to Concord may now be resumed, though there are ' '■ ■ ' ' ■♦- _ ■ J j(-j|.yj l^f^-crr-rr — ^_S gM^^^^,'" 1*3 m^' PHOTO BY C. B, WEBSTER & CO, OLD NORTH BRIDGE, CONCORD. still many sites marked by eloquent tablets for those who have time for a more extended stay. The route lies through Bedford, where may be seen Fitch's Tavern, and many old homesteads. It is interesting to know that the minute-men marched over the Old Bedford Road to Concord, joining the Bedford militia company, which had started from its captain's house on that road. At Concord they helped in the removal of stores to places of greater safety before the appearance of the king's troops; and joining in the pursuit of the British on the retreat, had part in the skirmish by Hardy's Hill, where their captain fell. 142 GUIDE TO BOSTON. Concord, settled in the autumn of 1635, was the first inland town founded in the Massachusetts Bay Colony. It was made a shire town as early as 1692, and by the close of its first century it had become the important central town of the province. In pre-Revolutionary events it had a conspicuous part. The first of the county conventions to protest against the acts of Parliament and King was held here, in August, 1774. Here the Provincial Congress sat from March to April 15, 1775. The town was the principal place of deposit of the arms and military stores ob- tained by the Congress, and during the winter of 1774-75, the making of gun-carriages, firearms, musket balls, cartridges and military accoutrements was its chief industry. Two companies of minute-men were enlisted, and guards were regularly sta- tioned to protect the military stores. In the Nineteenth-of- April fight, nearly two hundred townsmen were engaged, the roll including almost every Concord family-name of that time. Emerson came to live here in 1834, and in subsequent years, Hawthorne, Margarent Fuller, Channing, the Alcotts, and others, while Thoreau was Concord born. The town covers a plain with skirting hills, and lies about the Sudbury, Assabet and Concord rivers. The principal elevations are Nashawtuk Hill, at the junction of the Sudbury and Assabet, and Punka- tasset Hill in the north part, overlooking the Concord. To see Concord satisfactorily one should take a carriage and drive to the various points of interest. Like Lexington, its tab- lets proclaim its story for the benefit of the passer-by. The homes of the literary folk, and the graves of some of them; Lake Walden; the Concord Museum of historical relics; and the many places connected in some way with the battle; the hillside burying-ground, with its clusters of gray stones — all these, and many more, will prove interesting and instructive. The Square near the corner of Lowell Street may be taken as a starting point for a stroll which will include a large number of these points. The first thought is of the Battle Ground, and taking Monument Street at the right, we reach it within a short half-mile. The first street opening at the right leads to Sleepy Hollcsw Cemetery, where are the graves of Hawthorne, Emerson, Thoreau, the Alcotts, and the Hoars. This street lies against the 144 GUIDE TO BOSTON. hill which was the minute-men's second post whence they re- treated over the Old North Bridge to await reinforcements as Colonel Smith's troops entered the village. Soon after crossing the railroad track, "The old Manse" is seen at the left. From Monument Street an avenue of pines leads to the North Bridge and the Battle Ground. The Battle Monument at the approach to the bridge tells us that: Here on the 19th of April, 1775 was made the first forcible resistance to British Aggression. On the opposite bank stood the American militia, here stood the invading army. And on this spot the first of the enemy fell in the War of the Revolution, which gave Independence to these United States In gratitude to God, and in the love of Freedom, this monument was erected, A. D. 1836. Across the picturesque Battle Bridge is French's beatiful statue of the "Minute-Man." Emerson's words are the inscription; "By the rude bridge which spanned the flood. Their flag to April's breeze unfurled. Here once the embattled farmers stood And fired the shot heard round the world." On the rear face are the dates: "1775. Nineteenth of April, 1875." The statue was cast from the metal of ten pieces of brass cannon given to the town by Congress, and the pedestal is a block from the same boulder from which the Battle Monument came. Returning to Monument Street the walk should be continued to Liberty Street, opening at the left, to the field where the Americans formed, and from which they marched toward the bridge. Liberty Street, further on, joins Estabrook Road, and at the junction turns to the left and curves southwesterly to Lowell Street, where it ends. In the bend, on the left side, is the old Major Buttrick house, and just beyond is Battlelawn, the TROLLEY TRIPS. 145 home of the Barret family. On a boulder in the grounds is a tab- let giving an interesting bit of family history: Battle Lawn. April 19, 1775. From this hill Colonel James Barrett commanding the Americans gave the order to march to the bridge, but not to fire unless fired upon by the British. Captain Nathan Barrett led his company to defend the bridge, pursued the British to Charlestown, and though wounded, captured Major Pitcairn's horse, saddle and pistols and returned home with his trophies. On the other side of the road is a tablet marking the mustering field: On this Field the Minute Men and Militia formed before marching down to the Fight at the Bridge. The return to the Square is by way of Lowell Street. If a carriage has been taken, the drive should be extended to Sudbury, just south of Concord. Sudbury, too, has a monument commemorating three officers and twenty-six soldiers slain by Indians in 1676, and many Revolutionary soldiers lie in the old burying-ground. The Wayside Inn, immortalized by Longfel- low, is its chief attraction for tourists. From 1683 to i860 it was kept as a tavern. It has again been reopened as an inn, and with its quaint antique furnishings is a most interesting and comfortable place. Wayside Inn station is twenty-two miles from Boston, on the Cen- tral Massachusetts division of B. & M. Railroad. The Inn is about one mile* from station. On request by telephone the landlord will send conveyance to station. IV. THROUGH BROOKLINE TO CHESTNUT HILL RESERVOIR. Brookline, originally a part of Boston, went by the name of Muddy River Hamlet from the time of its settlement, in 1635, 146 GUIDE TO BOSTON. to 1705, when it was incorporated as Brookline. It was earliest occupied for grazing farms by settlers in Boston who kept their "swine and other cattle" here in summer, "whilst corn is on the ground at Boston." Wedged into the territory of Boston, with the Brighton District along its northwestern boundary, the Back Bay District on the northeast, Roxbury and West Roxbury dis- tricts on the east and south, it has resisted all appeals to unite- with the municipality, and it is probably the largest, and certain- ly, the wealthiest town in the country which still retains a primi- tive township organization. To-day Brookline is noted for its wealth, its schools, its numerous extensive estates, its fine land- scapes and its pleasant woods. Brookline has about 20,000 in- habitants, and a tax list of $70,000,000. Though the rate of tax- ation is low, it raises and expends about $1, 000,000 a year for town purposes. To enjoy the beauties of Brookline one should have a carriage and drive to the different points of interest. For the trolley trip, take the Reservoir-Coolidge Corner car at the Park Street Subway station, or at Copley Square. Upon leaving the Subway, the car passes the Public Garden. Glimpses of the Sumner Statue and the shrub-embowered pond are to be had on the right. Now the run is along Boylston Street, with its interesting shops. At Berkeley Street, on the left, is the Young Men's Christian Association building, and on the right the Bos- ton Museum of Natural History, and the buildings of the Massa- chusetts Institute of Technology. Opposite the latter is the Hotel Brunswick. And now Copley Square, the artistic and liter- ary centre of Boston is passed, with Trinity Church, the Museum of Fine Arts, and the Public Library, on the left, and the new Old South Church on the right. Beyond the Library is the Harvard Medical School, and, opposite, on the corner of Exeter Street, the Hotel Lenox. Now the route is along Boylston to Massachusetts Avenue, which is followed westward, across Com- monwealth Avenue, where, at the left, may be seen a bit of the Back Bay Fens and the statue of Leif Erickson, and, on the right, beyond the vista of boulevard and garden, the Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument, towering from its height on The Com- mon. At Beacon Street another turn is made, and, looking north- ward, is a charming view down Beacon Street, cappe'5 this time 248 GUIDE TO BOSTOrs. by the golden dome which it seems hard to miss from any part of the city. There is also another glimpse of the Fens, and of the Charlesgate Hotel and the Harvard Bridge. Speeding along the broad boulevard with its bridle path on the right, and two wide driveways, one passes many beautiful homes, and, beyond Coolidge Corner, Corey Hill is seen on the right. Among the buildings one is sure to notice, are the castle- like apartment-houses known as Beaconsfield Terraces, and a gray turretted house — the Jordan mansion. As the car runs up the hill to the right, a fine view is had of the Chestnut Hill Reservoir and the pumping station of the Boston Waterworks. The reservoir has 125 acres of water surface, and holds about 730 millions of gallons, replenished constantly from distant sources of supply. The boulevard surrounding the reservoir makes a beautiful drive. Chestnut Hill has many fine residences. It pays one to leave the car at Beacon Circle, and, walking to the left past the pumping station, to follow the driveway around the reservoir to Commonwealth Avenue. From here the view is charming, and the walk should be continued westward via Fost-er Street to Washington Street, where a car may be taken for the return. If, however, one does not leave the car for the walk around the reservoir the ride is continued to Newton. From this point two routes back to Boston are available. The first is via Beacon and Washington Streets to Brookline village, where the cars pass the Brookline Public Library, the Town Hall, the Court House, and the older business portion of the town. Crossing the Fenway the House of the Good Shepherd is on the left, and the city is entered via Huntington Avenue. At Gainsborough Street is the Children's Hospital, and the New England Conser- vatory of Music. And further south the building of the Massa- chusetts Charitable Mechanic Association. The car runs through Copley Square to the Subway, via Boylston Street. The second route from the Newton line runs via Common- wealth Avenue, past the links of the Kenilworth Golf Club, and later those of the Allston Golf Club, through Beacon Street and back to the Subway by the route taken on the outward journey. TROLLEY TRIPS. 149 V. THROUGH THE NEWTONS TO NORUMBEGA PARK AND WALTHAM. For this trip cars marked Newton may be taken at any of the Subway stations. Newton, one of the largest suburban munici- palities in the neighborhood of Boston, has acquired the sobri- quet of the ''Garden City," because of its natural beauties. It spreads over hills and \- alleys and the Charles River winds around and about it, adding to its fairness. The history of New- ton may be briefly told: It was set off from Cambridge in 1688, and constituted, with the Brighton District, the territory of the Newe Towne beyond the stockade, on the south side of the Charles River. The town became a city in 1875. The cit}- is divided into four- teen distinct villages: Newton, Chestnut Hill. Newtonville, Nonantum (or North Village), West New- ton, Auburndale, Riverside, Waban, Newton Lower Falls, Newton Upper Falls, Newton Highlands, Eliot, Newton Centre, and Oak Hill. The Boston and Albany main line passes through the city; the Newton Circuit (branch of the B. and A.), with fourteen stations, traverses three sides; southern portions are touched by the Midland Division of the New York, New Haven and Hartford Railroad, and electric lines pass through its terri- tory, from village to village, and to adjoining places. The Hem- ■ K^<^7^ ^ ^ s^ at:- ^s*-^ r-^'.- .^- v-T ' NORUMBEGA TOWER. 150 CHIDE TO BOSTON. PHOIO BY C. B. WEBSTER. ECHO BRIDGE, NEWTON UPPER EALLS. lock Gorge Reservation, of the Metropolitan Parks System, is in Newton Upper Falls. Echo Bridge, which carries the aqueduct of the Cochituate Water System, has a span of nearly 150 feet across a rocky gorge through the Charles River ranges. Norumbega Park is reached via the Newton cars. It has an attractive "zoo," a deer park, restaurant, electric fountain, rustic theatre, etc. Thousands are drawn to it in the summer, because of the delightful trolley ride, as well as the attractions of the place. Norumbega Tower, erected by Professor Horsford to commemorate the settlement of the Norsemen, is on the west bank of the Charles, a little off the road to Waltham. The large inscribed tablet set in its face states in detail that it commemo- rates the pre-Columbian voyages of the Northmen to the New World: • A. D. 1000 A. D. 1889 Norumbega City . Country . Fort . River Norum'Dega = Nor'nibega Indian utterance of Norbega the ancient form TROLLEY TRIPS. 151 • of Norvega, Norway . to which the region of Vinland was subject. City at and near Watertown where remain today Docks . Wharves . Walls . Dams . Basins. Country Extending from Rhode Island to the St. Lawrence First seen by Bjarni Herjulfson 985 A. D. Landfall of Leif Erikson on Cape Cod, 1000 A. D. Norse canals . Dams . Walls . Pavements Forts . Terraced places of assembly remain today. Fort at base of tower and region about was occupied by the Breton French in the 15th, 16th and 17th centuries. River the Charles Discovered by Leif Erikson . 1000 A. D. Explored by Thorwald . Leif's brother . 1003 A. D. Colonized by Thorfinn Karlsefni . 1007 A. D. First Bishop Erik Gnupson . 1121 A. D. Industries for 350 years Masurwood . Burrs . Fish . Furs . Agriculture Latest Norse Ship returned to Iceland in 1347. At Newton a change may be made to cars of the Newton Street Railway Company for Waltham via Newtonville and West Newton. Waltham was set ofif from Watertown in 1737. It was named for the English Waltham Abbey, from which some of its resi- dents came. It was made a city in 1884. Its principal landscape features are the river and beautiful hills, of which Prospect Hill is the highest. The car runs past the Waltham Manufacturing Company's plant, and crossing the Charles River, reaches the common, thence along Main Street, stopping finally at the foot of Prospect Hill, which is owned by the city of Waltham. A walk of fifteen minutes brings one to Prospect Hill Park. This is the highest ground, next to the Blue Hills, in this part of the State. Here a panorama of Eastern Massachusetts and Southern New 152 GUIDE TO BOSTON. Hampshire repays one richly for the journey. Off to the north and west far-off mountain ranges are seen. To the southeast towns and cities dot the river valleys. To the east are the Blue Hill Region, the city of Boston, and the harbor. The park in- cludes about one hundred acres. It is easy of access, and is one of the most delightful spots in the Metropolitan District. Returning to Main Street we may continue our journey to Watertown, settled in 1630. On Arsenal Street is the United States Arsenal, with its great workshops, where heavy ordnance is made. This town is eight miles from Boston, and the return to the city may be made via Cambridge. VI. TO DEDHAM. The car for Forest Hills may be reached by any car taken at Union Station, Subway stations, by electric train to Dudley Street transfer and change, Chelsea Ferry, Rowe'c Wharf, East Boston Ferry, Park Square, Copley Square, Bowdoin Square and Washington Street, and by any surface car passing Dudley Street (by transfer). At Forest Hills an East Walpole car is taken, and passing through Roslindale the car enters Dedham. The car runs to Memorial Square in the centre of the town, and, if on time, it will be found that an hour and a half have been needed for the journey. But it is one of the rides which one would not miss, for the route is pleasant, and Dedham is rich in history, and a delightful place in which to while away a summer afternoon. Dedham dates from 1635. The Charles River, which flows through the town, is connected with the Neponset River by a canal called Mother Brook. This was the first canal made in America, and dates back to 1639-40. The Charles River makes a great bend here, and the river meadows afford scenery that is both restful and pleasing. The town is separated into a number of villages: Dedham Village. Connecti- cut Corner, East Dedham, Oakdale. Germantown, Walnut Hill, Ashcroft, Endicott, and Elmwood. Dedham Village contains the town and county buildings and a number of interesting old mansion-houses. The visitor will be sure to feel an interest in Memorial Hall, built as a memorial to the townsmen who fell in the Civil War; the artistic building 164 GUIDE TO BOSTON. of the Dedham Historical Society, with its library of historical works and manuscripts, a collection of antiquities and portraits of local celebrities; the Ames house, built in 1772; the Dexter house, built about 1762, and, most interesting of all, the Fair- banks house, built in 1650, and now in charge of the Daughters of the Revolution. VII. THROUGH QUINCY TO THE SOUTH SHORE. The South Shore resorts. Downer's Landing, Hingham and Nantasket, may be reached by trolley via Quincy, though a quicker, and, in fair weather, a pleasanter way of reaching them is by steamer. (See "The Harbor and Beaches.") The run from Boston to Quincy, via the Neponset line, takes a little more than an hour. Take car at South Terminal Station, or on Washington Street, marked "Neponset Bridge," or con- nection with this car may be made at the Dudley Street transfer station by taking the elevated. The car, after leaving Dudley Street, runs to the banks of the Neponset River, where a change is made. After crossing the river the route runs through Atlan- tic, Norfolk Downs, and Wollaston to Quincy. From Atlantic a line of cars runs to Squantum, where a visit may be made to Squantum Head, occupied by the city of Boston in connection with the works at Moon Island. Visitors are readily admitted to see the monument, which occupies the high- est point of the clifif. It is a conical tower of stone which com- memorates the landing here of an exploring party from Plym- outh. The inscription reads: Captain Myles Standish with his men guided by the Indian Squanto, landed here September 30, 1621. The point is nearly one hundred feet above sea level and com- mands a fine view of the harbor. A short distance to the east is Squaw Rock, where there are benches chained to the rock. The tradition runs that once upon a time a broken-hearted Indian maid threw herself into the sea from the crag, and from this legend it got its name in the early days of the settlement. Quincy, settled first as Wollaston, in 1625, joined to Boston in 1634, was incorporated as the town of Braintree in 1640. In 1792 TROLLEY TRIPS. 155 it became an independent town, with its present name. It has been a city since 1889. It is now an important street railway- centre, from which lines radiate in all directions. It lies on Quincy Bay, extending over rolling lands back from the water, on one side, into the Blue Hills region. The city is divided into a number of distinct quarters: Quincy Centre, Hough's Neck, Germantown, Quincy Point, South Quincy or Quincy Adams, West Quincy, Wallaston, Norfolk Downs. North Quincy, At- lantic, and Squantum. Its chief interest centres in the fact that "■ ■ '•"■ - 1 ^ -■"" ' ^ 1 ^c^r^eX - ^^^^^^g ^ - — -....^^^^^^ ^_._ ^'•" jiKi ^■1 i^ffl^lll Iflllflb^l^' "^^ ii bf' > "is^^H ^^^HJH^^^H ^■S] 1 1 ^BcSHHlHt' ' .' 'fii ^#^ '^H ^^pH&H^l^Mri ^^«BHHP^ 1 '~ ^P . -. .. .. -^J PHOTO BY C B WEBSTER & CO. THE HOMES OF THE PRESIDENTS ADAMS. Quincy. it was the birthplace and burial-place of the two Presi- dents Adams, the birthplace of John Hancock, and the home of the distinguished Quincy family, for a mem- ber of which. Colonel John Quincy. it was named. It was the place where granite quarries were first opened, to obtain granite for the Bunker Hill Monument; and the place of the first railroad in the country, constructed for the removal of granite to the shipping-point. Among its points of interest is the old church, where generations of Adamses and Quincys worshipped, where great men were baptized, and m whose crypt lie the ashes of two Presidents of the United States. 154 GUIDE TO BOSTON. of the Dedham Historical Society, with its library of historical works and manuscripts, a collection of antiquities and portraits of local celebrities; the Ames house, built in 1772; the Dexter house, built about 1762, and, most interesting of all, the Fair- banks house, built in 1650, and now in charge of the Daughters of the Revolution. VII. THROUGH QUINCY TO THE SOUTH SHORE. The South Shore resorts. Downer's Landing, Hingham and Nantasket, may be reached by trolley via Quincy, though a quicker, and, in fair weather, a pleasanter way of reaching them is by steamer. (See "The Harbor and Beaches.") The run from Boston to Quincy, via the Neponset line, takes a little more than an hour. Take car at South Terminal Station, or on Washington Street, marked "Neponset Bridge," or con- nection with this car may be made at the Dudley Street transfer station by taking the elevated. The car, after leaving Dudley Street, runs to the banks of the Neponset River, where a change is made. After crossing the river the route runs through Atlan- tic, Norfolk Downs, and Wollaston to Quincy. From Atlantic a line of cars runs to Squantum, where a visit may be made to Squantum Head, occupied by the city of Boston in connection with the works at Moon Island. Visitors are readily admitted to see the monument, which occupies the high- est point of the cliff. It is a conical tower of stone which com- memorates the landing here of an exploring party from Plym- outh. The inscription reads: Captain Myles Standish with his men guided by the Indian Squanto, landed here September 30, 1621. The point is nearly one hundred feet above sea level and com- mands a fine view of the harbor. A short distance to the east is Squaw Rock, where there are benches chained to the rock. The tradition runs that once upon a time a broken-hearted Indian maid threw herself into the sea from the crag, and from this legend it got its name in the early days of the settlement. Quincy, settled first as Wollaston, in 1625, joined to Boston in 1634, was incorporated as the town of Braintree in 1640. In 1792 TROLLEY TRIPS. 155 it became an independent town, with its present name. It has been a city since 1889. It is now an important street railway- centre, from wdiich lines radiate in all directions. It lies on Quincy Bay, extending over rolling lands back from the water, on one side, into the Blue Hills region. The city is divided into a number of distinct quarters: Quincy Centre, Hough's Neck, Germantown, Quincy Point, South Quincy or Quincy Adams, West Quincy, Wallaston, Norfolk Downs, North Quincy, At- lantic, and Squantum. Its chief interest centres in the fact that 'It ' \ r^-«" ■' 1 11 UM .. ■ -3 PHOTO BY C B WEBSTER & CO. THE HOMES OF THE PRESIDENTS ADAMS. Quincy. it was the birthplace and burial-place of the two Presi- dents Adams, the birthplace of John Hancock, and the home of the distinguished Quincy family, for a mem- ber of which. Colonel John Quincy, it was named. It was the place where granite quarries were first opened, to obtain granite for the Bunker Hill Monument; and the place of the first railroad in the country, constructed for the removal of granite to the shipping-point. Among its points of interest is the old church, where generations of Adamses and Quincys worshipped, where great men were baptized, and m whose crypt lie the ashes of two Presidents of the United States. X56 GUIDE TO BOSTON. In the old burying-ground, nearly opposite the church, John Hancock and others who were prominent in the history of the State are buried. Next in interest to the church and the burying- ground are the ancient houses still standing in South Quincy, where John Adams and John Quincy Adams were born. The most famous Adams House is the mansion in the bend of Adams Street just over the railroad bridge, above the corner of New- port Avenue. This was President John Adams's Quincy home- stead from 1787 until his death. "In it, in the same room, was celebrated the golden wedding of himself, and the golden wed- dings of his son and his grandson" (Charles Francis Adams). There are other interesting houses in Quincy, and the visitor will be amply repaid for his walks about the famous old town. The plant of the Fore River Ship & Engine Company occupies ninety acres on Quincy Point. Here was built the famous seven- masted schooner, the "Thomas W. Lawson," the largest sailing vessel ever built in the United States. Here also was launched the United States cruiser, the "Des Moines," and several torpedo boat destroyers. Take trolley from Quincy on the Nantasket lii/e. VIII. TO PILGRIM LAND. This trip from Boston to Plymouth, by electric car, takes four hours and forty-six minutes. The fare is 65 cents. From Boston, take the car for Milton Lower ]\Iills. Changes are made at the latter place and at Whitman, or at Brockton. Cars leave Whit- man for Plymouth on the hour, and half hour. This is a long journey, and it is one that should not be attempted unless two or three days can be given to the excursion. (For remarks on Plymouth see page 126.) Milton, incorporated in 1662, was named from Milton in Eng- land, from which place some of its founders came. It lies just south of Dorchester, of which it was formerly a part. It is a region of great natural beauty, of fine estates, and winding, hilly, shady roads, which afford glimpses of ocean, forest and river. The old Milton cemetery has many gravestones with quaint inscriptions. In what is now the Vose House, were adopted, in 1774, the Suffolk Resolves, carried to Philadelphia by Paul Revere. Full particulars of these transactions are related on the tablet on the front of the house. VISITORS' MEMORANDA. RAILROAD TERMINALS AND THEIR FACILITIES. There are two great railway terminals in Boston, and the in- coming traveler will find himself at his journey's end in one or the other of these magnificent stations. The North Union Station, on Causeway Street, between Nashua and Haverhill streets, is used by the several divisions of the Boston and Maine System. It will, therefore, be seen that all trains from Northern New England, from Canadian points, and from the West, by way of the Hoosac Tunnel, Grand Trunk or Canadian Pacific lines, and from all suburbs north, northeast and northwest of Boston arrive and depart from this station. Some idea of the capacity of the North Union Station is gained by the statement that six hundred trains depart from this station every day in the year. The South Terminal Station on Summer Street and Atlantic Avenue is the largest terminal railroad station in the world. It is used by the several divisions of the New York, New Haven and Hartford, and the Boston and Albany Railways. This im- posing building is of pink Connecticut granite. It is six stories in height, and covers 13 acres. Its average length is 765 feet, and its average w^idth 662 feet, with a street frontage of 5^ of a mile. The waiting-room is 225 feet long, 65 feet wide, and 28^ feet high. The train shed is 600 feet square, and contains 28 surface tracks on the upper floor. On the Subway floor are double-loop tracks for the accommodation of suburban and excursion traffic. There are under cover 4 miles of tracks, and over 700 trains will use the station daily when all are provided for. The main en- trance to this magnificent station is at the broad Summer Street corner. This leads to the Midway, a large open space between the waiting-rooms and train sheds. From the midway open the 157. 160 GUIDE TO BOSTON. waiting-rooms, baggage-rooms, ticket-offices, restaurants, and a covered carriage stand. It is hard to imagine a railway station more complete and luxurious in the various appointments pro- vided for the comfort and the convenience of travelers. Trinity Place Station, Huntington Avenue and Trinity Place, is a stopping place for all outward bound trains of the Boston and Albany Railway. Huntington Avenue Station is at the corner of Huntington Avenue and Irvington Street. All inward bound trains of the Boston and Albany Railroad stop here. The Back Bay Station is on Dartmouth Street, near Colum- bus Avenue. Many of the trains entering or leaving on the Providence division of the New York, New Haven and Hartford Railway stop at this station. The Boston, Revere Beach and Lynn Railroad is a narrow gauge road running from East Boston to Winthrop and Lynn via the North Shore. It is reached by ferry from Atlantic Avenue, foot of High Street. COASTWISE STEAMERS. Boston and Philadel^ hia Steamship Company. — Vessels for Philadelphia leave Central Wharf Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. The Clyde Line. — Steamers for Charleston, S. C, Brunswick, Ga., and Jacksonville, Fla., leave south side of Lewis Wharf. Steamers for Gloucester leave north side of Central Wharf daily (Sundays excepted). Merchants* and Miners' Transportation Company. — Steamers leave Battery Wharf for Newport News and Baltimore. Ocean Steamship Company. — Steamers leave Lewis Wharf for New York and Savannah, Ga. Plant Line. — Steamers leave for Halifax, Hawkesbury and Charlottetown from north side Lewis Wharf. Dominion Atlantic Railway Steamship Line. — Steamers leave for Yarmouth and Halifax from Long Wharf. 162 GUIDE TO BOSTON. Nantasket Steamboat Company. — Steamers leave Rowe's Wharf every hour for Pemberton and Nantasket Beach. Eastern Steamship Company, Bangor Division. — Steamers leave Foster's Wharf daily (excepting Sunday) at 5.00 P. M. for Rockland, Belfast, Winterport, Bangor, Mt. Desert, etc. Portland Division. — Steamers leave India Wharf daily, (in- cluding Sunday) for Portland at 7.00 P. M. International Division. — Steamers leave Commercial Wharf for Portland, Eastport and St. John. Kennebec Division. — Steamers leave Boston for Bath, Rich- mond, Augusta, etc., daily, excepting Sunday. TRANS-ATLANTIC STEAMERS. Cunard Line. — Steamers leave for Liverpool via Queenstown from foot Orleans Street, East Boston. Dominion Line. — Steamers leave for Liverpool and the Med- iterranean from Fitchburg Railroad Wharves, Charlestown. Leyland Line. — Steamers leave for Liverpool and London from Boston and Albany Railroad Wharves, East Boston. United Fruit Company. — Steamers for Jamaica leave Long Wharf. The Armstrong Transfer Company has its agents on all in- coming trains, and at the piers of arriving steamers. These offi- cials wear the company's uniform, and they are prepared to take orders for the transfer of passenger and baggage to or from any point in the city and suburbs. Passengers, upon surrendering their checks, should be given in return the company's receipt, which is to be surrendered only upon the delivery of the baggage at the places specified. When leaving the city an order should be given at any of the company's offices at least two hours before the time of departure. The sender of baggage is given the com- pany's claim check on the baggage-room of the station or land- ing to which the baggage is sent, and in this way his property is quickly identified for checking. This company will check bag- gage through to destination from a hotel or residence, if the parties interested have their railroad tickets, and notify them to bring checks. It is also prepared, when requested, to purchase ticket and bring both ticket and check to the house or hotel. The VISITORS' MEMORANDA. 163 Armstrong Company also owns and operates a line of coupes and carriages for the conveyance of passengers between stations, or to or from any part of the city. The following are the rates for the transfer of baggage from the Terminal or Back Bay stations. Boston, by The Armstrong Transfer Company: For each piece of baggage — to any point within the old city limits, 25 cents; to any point within present city limits, according to location. 35 cents or 50 cents; to any point outside the city limits, and within five miles of Boston, 5c cents; to ocean steamship lines. 50 cents. The cab and carriage rates are those prescribed by the city authorities. The company's offices are to be found in all railroad stations, in all the leading hotels, and in different parts of the city. Their telephone number is ''938 Tremont." TRANSPORTATION ABOUT TOWN. The hackney carriage and cab systems of the city are under control of the police department, the rates of fare being estab- 1 ^gjB^^ fe/ ^^jH IB B, m^^^S- m'li^^ -^ \- 1 . -i BOSTON CITY HOSPITAL RELIEF STATION, Haymarket Square. 164 GUIDE TO BOSTON. lished by city ordinance. The fare for an adult for short dis- tances, within specified limits in the city proper, is 50 cents; this charge includes the transportation of one trunk on the car- riage. The following regulation applies to carrying children by carriage or cabs: For children under four years of age, with an adult, no charge shall be made. For a child between four and twelve years of age, when accompanied by an adult, the fare shall be half the price charged for an adult; but when not so accom- panied, or when a child carried in a cab is over twelve years of age, the charge will be for an adult fare. The charge for Herdic carriages and one-horse cabs is 25 cents for transporting one person from any railroad station to a hotel, or from one railroad station to another. For one or more passengers from one point to another, within specified limits, the fare is 25 cents each. Cabs may also be hired by the hour for service within or about the city at the following rates: To or from any point within the limits of the city the rate shall be made on the basis of $1 per hour for one, two, three, or four passengers. The time shall be reckoned both going to and coming from any point, whether the cab returns empty or otherwise. Fractions of an hour shall not be charged after the first hour. The street-car service in Boston, with the exception of the Lynn and Boston Railway, running from the Scollay Square Subway Station, is under the control of one corporation, which is known as the Boston Elevated Railway Company. This com- pany operates over surface, subway and elevated lines. Its lib- eral system of transfers, given at certain points without extra charge, enables one to reach almost any part of Boston or its nearby suburbs for five cents. Throujgh its connections with other trolley lines a great part of New England is open to those who would travel by "broom-stick train." The Subway, one of the sights of Boston, is ov/ned by the city and leased to the Elevated Railway Company. The Washington Street Subway is approaching completion and will be opened for traffic in the near future. That part of the 'Subway which has been in operation since 1898 is one arid twg- thirds miles long, running from a point near the North Union Station to Tremont Street and Shavvmut Avenue, near Pleasant I ■■■ \f BOARD OF TKADK-STATl- AND BROAD STREETS. O C W.B '^ - T- U; O r- »> +3 X I, O yr <^ fi <0> K t« S ' • ?^ > S, c g p ct: >.*" 3 ^ " ■^3 l-j C — < VISITORS' MEMORANDA. 165 Street, with another outlet on Boylston Street, near the Public Garden; it is used by both elevated and surface cars, and has jj^rcatly facilitated street-car and other travel in the narrow and crooked streets of the business part of the city. The following general directions may be of service to the stranger, but for minute directions one should apply to con- ductors or to the Subway employees. Policemen are usually well-informed on these matters, and they will cheerfully give any information asked. Southbound cars may be taken at Sub- way stations for Back Bay, Roxbury, parts of Dorchester, Ja- maica Plain, Forest Hills, Brookline, Allston. Brighton, Water- town and Newton; also parts of Cambridge and Somerville, by way of Boylston Street, Massachusetts Avenue and Harvard Bridge. Surface cars for Cambridge may also be taken at North Station or Bowdoin Square, go- ing by way of Cam- bridge Bridge. Sur- face cars for South Station, Roxbury, Highland, Dorches- ter, South Boston, may be taken south- bound on Washing- ton Street, or east- bound on Summer Street. Cars may be taken at Subway sta- tions for North Sta- tion. Charlestown, Maiden, Medford, Somerville and most northern suburbs, HOTEL TOLRAIXE. sometimes involving Tremont and Boylston Streets. 166 GUIDE TO BOSTON. a change of cars at Park Street Station. The elevated trains run from Roxbury to Charlestown, passing through the Subway; also by another route passing the South Terminal. Trains marked "Atlantic Circuit" go around what is known as "the loop," and by taking one of these trains the passenger may go direct from one to the other of the great railway stations, or from any of the Subway stations to any station on this "loop." This line will be found a great convenience to those wishing to take the steam- boats down the harbor or elsewhere. Transfers from surface to elevated cars may be obtained from conductors. The elevated road now operates to Forest Hills and is to be extended to other points, so as to relieve the still crowded streets. Ferries between Boston and opposite shores: Chelsea Ferry, from foot of Hanover Street to foot of Winnisimmet Street, Chelsea. East Boston, North Ferry, from foot of Battery Street. East Boston, South Ferry, from foot of Eastern Avenue. Bos- ton and Revere Beach Railroad Ferry, 350 Atlantic Avenue, to terminal of the railroad in East Boston, HOTELS. There should be no difficulty in getting comfortably settled in Boston. Among her numerous hotels are those which offer very good accommodations at reasonable prices, as well as those which provide all the luxury and magnificence demanded by the millionaire. The following list enumerates not only the first- class hotels, but others also of more modest pretensions. Any hotel mentioned in this list may be selected by the traveler with the assurance that he will receive fair treatment: ??ame and Location. Pan. Rates per Day. Adains House, 553 Washington Street European |1.50 and up American House, 54 Hanover Street.. ..European 1.00 Bellevue, 21 Beacon Street European 1.50 " Boston Tavern. 347 Washington Street. ..European 100 " Brigliam's Hotel, 6t2-4 Washington St. European l.OO ** Brunswick, Boylston and Clarendon... (European 1.50 Streets " ( American 5.00 Castle Square, 423-lil Tremont Street. ..European 1.00 and up Cecil, 617 Washington Street European 1.00 to 6.00 Clarendon, 531-53i Tremont Street European 1.00 and up Charlesgate, 535 Beacon Street European l.tiO Clark's, 577 Washington Street European • 1.00 " VISITORS' MExMORANDA. iQ] Name and Location. Plan. Rat«s per Day. Copley Square, Huntington Avenue and ^ ^ o, rr. o Exeter Street European §1.50 and up Crawford House, Court and Brattle I -a^.,^^^ , ^„ .. Streets ^ European J.OO Essex, Dewey Square European l.r^) " I^enox, Boylston, corner Exeter Street. ..Euro;ean 2.00 " Netherlands, 17 to 21 Boylston Street European 2.00 Norfolk House, Eliot Square American 2 00 Nottingham, 35 Huntington Avenue European 1.00 " ''mo^h'Jt;;^?^'!^'''!::."":''"': [European 1.00 " ^''i^rllt!'^!!^.'::^!^!^^^^^^ [European 1.00 " ^St?ee?°.^."".^."^.™^^^^ } European 1 00 " Quincy House, Brattle Street European 1.00 Revere House, Bowdoin Squ.Tre European l.CO " Somerset, Commonwealth Ave., cor- I p^ronean 9 00 uerCharlesgate j- uuropean ^ UO Thorndike, 240 Boylston Street European 1.00 *' Touraine, Tremont and Boylston Sts European 2.00 " Tuileries, 270 Commonwealth Avenue European 2.(X) " United States, Beach, corner I^incoln /European 100 " Street I American 2.50 Vendome, Commonwealth Ave. and * a«..=^;^o„ - nn a Dartmouth Street ,- American o.OO and up ''Vivll^s .^.^^.^".'.^....^."*^....^!!!'.^.!!!°.".!!^ [European 2.50 " Westminster, Copley Square European 2.00 " Young's, Court Street European 1.00 ' RESTAURANTS. Below will be found a list of the better restaurants in Boston: R. Marston and Company. 2=, Brattle St., I2i Summer St. Peacock Lunch and Tea Rooms, 355-357 Boylston Street. F. M. Crosby and Company, 19 School Street. The D. S. McDonald Company, 132 Tremont Street. F. E. Weber, 156 Tremont Street. Frost and Dearborn, 8 Pearl Street. Thompson's Spa, 219 Washington Street. C. E. Stubenrauch, 183 Summer Street. T, D. Cook and Company, 31 Avon Street. Brigham's, 209 Washington Street, opposite Boylston. Lunch and Dining Room at South Station. VISITORS' MEMORANDA. 169 The French and Italian restaurants are situated principally on Hayward Place, with the exception of the following: Lombardy Inn, Boylston Place, in the rear of the Colonial Theatre. Marliave's, Bosworth Place. Mieusset's. 836 Washington Street, near Hollis. In the vicinity of the markets will be found a number of res- taurants that make a specialty of good meats. These restau- rants are very much frequented by marketmen, and are more especially designed lor male patronage. THEATRES AND PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. The following i> an alphabetical list of the principal places of amusement ; Boston Theatre, 539 Washington Street. — Presents standard plays and grand opera. Prices range from 25 cents to $1.00. Wednesda}' and Saturday matinees. Bowdoin Square Theatre, i Bowdoin Square. — Presents light comedy and burlesque. Admission 25 cents. Daily matinee. Castle Square Theatre, 421 Tremont Street. — A modern fire- proof building. Presents popular plays and light operas. Prices from 15 to 50 cents. Daily matinee. Colonial Theatre, 100 Boylston Street. — Built in 1900. The finest theatre in Boston, where only high-class performances are given. Prices from 50 cents up. Saturday and special matinees. Columbia Theatre, 978 Washington Street. — Popular prices. Grand Opera House, 1176 Washington Street. — Presents bur- lesque, drama, etc. Popular prices. Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday matinees. Hollis Street Theatre, 14 Hollis Street. — Presents standard plays. Prices from 2^ cents to $1.50. Saturday matinee. Howard Atheneum. — Presents vaudeville. Prices 15 cents to 50 cents. The Majestic Theatre, Tremont Street, near Boylston. — Stand- ard plays, comic operas, etc. Prices from 25 cents to $1.50 Wed- nesday and Saturday matinees. Orpheum, Hamilton Place.— Presents drama, comic operas, etc., at popular prices. Prices 25 cents and 50 cents. Special prices at matinees. 170 GUIDE TO BOSTON. Park Theatre, 619 Washington Street. — Prices 50 cents to $1.50. Symphony Hall, Huntington Avenue, corner Massachusetts Avenue. — The Boston Symphony concerts are given here each season on Friday afternoons and Saturday evenings. Other high- class musical performances are given here. The building is new, and combines all the qualities which are requisite to a music hall. Tremont Theatre, 176 Tremont Street. — One of the best places of amusement in Boston. Only high-class plays are presented here. Prices range from 50 cents up. Wednesday and Saturday matinees. Globe Theatre, Washington Street, near Beach. Keith's Theatre, 547 Washington Street. — One of the prettiest theatres in the country. Continuous performances from 1.30 P. M. to 10.30 P. M. Whatever is presented at Keith's is of high order. Prices from 25 cents to $1. CLUBS. Algonquin Club, 217 Commonwealth Avenue.- — One of the leading social clubs of the city. Appalachian Mountain Club, 1050 Tremont Building. The ob- jects of this association are to explore the mountains of New England and the adjacent regions, both for scientific and artistic purposes, and, in general, to cultivate an interest in geographical studies. Boston Architectural Club, 14 Somerset Street. Boston Art Club, Newbury Street, corner of Dartmouth. Boston Athletic Association, Exeter Street, corner of Blagden. Boston Camera Club, 50 Bloomfield Street. Boston Press Club, 2 Sewall Place Boston Yacht Club, Columbia Road. Caledonia Club, 694 Washington Street. Democratic Club of Massachusetts, 7 Water Street. Massachusetts Yacht Club, 5 Rowe's Wharf. New England Women's Club, 719 Tremont Temple. Puritan Club, 50 Beacon Street. Republican Club of Massachusetts, 19 Milk Street. 172 GUIDE TO BOSTON. INTERIOR SYMPHONY HALL. St. Botolph Club, 2 Newbury Street. Somerset Club, 42 Beacon Street. — The most fashionable and exclusive club in Boston. Temple Club, 74 Boylston Street. Twentieth Century Club, 2 Ashburton Place. CHURCHES. Of the several hundred churches in Boston, some are more interesting, either from an historical or architectural standpoint, than others; some attract because of their musical service or ritual; others, again, because of the fame of the preachers who occupy their pulpits. We name here a few of those churches, which for some of the- reasons mentioned above would be most attractive to strangers: NEW OLD SOUTH CHURCH VISITORS' MEMORANDA. 173 Arlington Street Church (Unitarian), Arlington Street, corner of Boylston. — The exterior of this church is plain. The interior is modeled after the Church of St. Annunziata, at Genoa, by Giacomo Delia I'orta. In the tower is a musical chime of sixteen bells. This church has one of the finest choirs in the city. Berkeley Temple (Congregational). Berkeley Street, near TrcniDiit. — One of the most active churches in Boston. Bromfield Street Church (Methodist). 36 Bromfield Street. Cathedral of the Holy Cross (Roman Catholic), Washington Street, corner of Maiden. — The largest Roman Catholic Church in New England. Central Church (Congregational), Berkeley Street, corner of Newberry. — Morning and vesper services. One of the most beautiful churches in Boston. The stained-glass in this church is the finest in Boston. The church is open daily at certain hours. Excellent music by quartet choir. Christ Church (Episcopalian), Salem Street, head of Hull Street. — Morning services only. Church of the Advent (High Church, Episcopal), corner of Brimmer and Mount Vernon streets. — Those who enjoy elabo- rate ritual will be interested in the service. Music by boy choir. Church of the Immaculate Conception (Jesuit), Harrison Ave- nue, corner of East Concord Street. — A beautiful church interior. Excellent music. Clarendon Street Baptist, Clarendon Street, near Tremont. Every-Day Church (Universalist), Shawmut Avenue, near Canton Street. First African M. E. Church, 68 Charles Street. First Baptist Church, Commonwealth Avenue and Clarendon Streets. — Quartet choir. Fine musical programme in evening. First Church in Boston (Unitarian). Marlboro Street, corner Berkeley. — Successor of the Congregational Church organized m 1630. Morning service only. First Church of Christ (Scientist), Falmouth Street, corner Norway. Known as the "Mother Church" of Christian Science. First Presbyterian Church, corner Columbus Avenue and Berkeley Street. 174 GUIDE TO BOSTON. First Spiritual Temple, Newbury Street, corner Exeter. — The principal Spiritualist meeting-place in the city. King's Chapel (Unitarian), Tremont Street, corner School Street. (See page 68.) Mount Vernon Church (Congregational), Beacon Street, cor- ner Massachusetts Avenue. — Morning services only. New Jerusalem Church (Swedenborgian), 136 Bowdoin Street. — Morning services. New Old South Church (Congregational), Dartmouth and Boylston streets. — Successor to the Old South Meeting-House. (See "Old Boston.") Next to Trinity the finest church edifice in Boston, It is built of Roxbury and Ohio stone, in the Northern Italian Gothic style of architecture. Its great tower rises to a height of 240 feet. From this tower an arcade, containing me- morial tablets, extends to the south transept. Over the centre of the edifice is a large gilded copper lantern with twelve windows. The interior is very beautiful, and the stained glass will repay inspection. Park Street Church (Congregational), corner Tremont and Park Streets. — Ever since the days when Rev. Lyman Beecher was pastor of this church it has been known as "Brimstone Corner." An interesting old church. People's Temple (Methodist), Columbus Avenue and Berkeley Street. Ruggles Street Baptist Church, 163 Ruggles Street. Salvation Army Posts, at 886 and 2229 Washington Street. Second Church (Unitarian), Copley Square. Second Universalist Church, Columbus Avenue and Clarendon Street. , South Church (Unitarian), Newbury and Exeter Streets. St. Paul's Church (Episcopal), Tremont Street, opposite the Common. Tremont Street Methodist Church, Tremont Street, corner West Concord. .Tremont Temple (Baptist), 76 to 86 Tremont Street, neai Sch,9.ol Street. — One of the largest church societies in New Eng- land. ,]yr,qrning, afternoon and evening services. Solo and choir singing. --j ^. •«■ _:«i*{?i^ -^^ I X ii??^^ 176 GUIDE TO BOSTON, Trinity Church (Episcopalian), Copley Square, just soutii of Clarendon Street. — This is undoubtedly the most beautiful church edifice in Boston. It was designed by the late H. H. Richardson, and is considered his masterpiece, and one of the architectural gems of this continent. Its shape is that of a Latin cross, with a semi-circular apse added to the eastern arm, and short tran- septs. A massive central tower rests at the intersection of nave and transepts. On the west front is the Galilee Porch, which has been recently added. The chancel contains beautiful mem- orial windows. The mural decorations of the interior are the work of John LaFarge. In the tower are painted collossal figures of David and Moses, Peter and Paul, Isaiah and Jeremiah, with scriptural scenes high above. In the nave is a fresco of Christ and the Samaritan woman. Union Church (Congregational), Columbus Avenue and West Newton Street. SOCIETIES, FRATERNITIES AND ORGANIZATIONS. American Academy of Arts and Sciences, 1154 Boylston Street. — Devoted to the promotion of a knowledge of the an- tiquities and natural history of America, and to the encourage- ment of scientific studies. Anicent and Honorable Artillery Company, headquarters in Faneuil Hall. — The oldest military organization in America. Boston Symphony Orchestra, a permanent musical organiza- tion with headquarters in Symphony Hall, Huntington Avenue, corner Massachusetts Avenue. Boston Society of Natural History, Boylston Street, corner of Berkeley. Benevolent and Protective Order of Elks, 24 Hayward Place. Grand Army of the Republic, headquarters of Department of Massachusetts at State House Annex. Handel and Haydn Society, headquarters in Symphony Hall, Huntington and Massachusetts avenues. — One of the oldest musical societies in the country. Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic Association, iii Hunting- ton Avenue. Its objects are to relieve the families of unfortu- nate mechanics, to promote inventions and improvements in the TREMONT TEMPLE PHOTO COPYRIGHTED, l8^, Bi T. E. MARR. MASONIC TEMPLE— Tremont and Boylston Streets. 178 GUIDE TO BOSTON. mechanic arts, and to assist young artisans. It holds numerous fairs and sales. Massachusetts Historical Society, 1154 Boylston Street. — De- voted to the investigation of local history. Massachusetts Horticultural Society, Horticultural Hall. Hunt- ington and Massachusetts Avenues. PHOTO COPYRIGHTED, 1899, BY T E. MARR. GOTHIC HALL, MASONIC TEMPLE. New England Historic-Genealogical Society, i8 Somerset Place. (See page 44.) Masonic Headquarters are in the fine Masonic Temple, Tre- mont, corner of Boylston streets. — The structure covers an area of 10,125 square feet. It rises 125 feet above the sidewalk and extends below it to a depth of about 32 feet, its contents being 1,600,000 cubic feet. There are nine full stories above the street, and two below. The available floor area in the whole building VISITORS' MEMORANDA. 179 amounts to 91,500 square feet. The exterior of the building is in a classic style of architecture, simple in treatment, with granite facades of Hallowell granite, and with the rear in gray face brick. The main Masonic entrance is on Boylston Street. The vestibule is of glass mosaic, and there are niches in which stand CORINTHIAN HALL, MASONIC TEMPLE. two marble columns, which were formerly at the entrance l(» the old building. The main entrance hall is twenty feet square, with a floor of marble mosaic. There is also seen the seal of the Grand Lodge of Massachusetts, done in marble mosaic. On the second floor are a Fraternity parlor, Sodality Hall, and coat rooms. On the third floor are the oftices of the Grand Lodge of Massachusetts. Corinthian Hall, on this floor, is con- sidered one of the handsomest rgo^ns ii; the country. It, is in a 180 GUIDE TO BOSTON. very refined style of architecture of the Corinthian order. Around the Hall are thirty-five columns and pilasters. There is an elaborate cornice and ceiling. The decorations are in ivory tones, and in gold and silver. The pedestals are of white marble, with carved capitals, surmounted by bronze candelabra. There is an organ in a case of ivory-white and gold on the north side of the hall. The ante-rooms of the hall are finished like the hall, but not so elaborately. On the fourth floor are found a small lodge-room, with connecting rooms, parlors, a room for the lodge secretaries, and a vault containing separate lockers, in which may be separately secured the archives of each body using the building. On the fifth floor is Ionic Hall. This is a pure Greek room, two stories high, the decorations being very ele- gant. The organ has a case of Greek design. Connected with Ionic Hall are apartments, waiting-rooms and a Prelate's room. In some of these rooms, as well as in the main hall, are very beautiful panels, figure pieces representing the progress and con- ditions of life. The sixth floor contains an armory, with two alcoves, a small adjoining apartment and two parlors. Gothic Hall is on the seventh floor. Its dimensions are 46 feet by 64 feet. It has a stage 46 feet wide and a proscenium arch 28 feet wide. It is fitted up in all respects like the stage of a modern theatre. There is a gallery at the rear of the hall, and a choir gallery and organ on one side of it. The hall and gallery have a space of 46 feet by 90 feet. This room is used for entertain- ments and dancing, as well as for Masonic rites. At the rear of the hall is a degree room, 20 feet by 60 feet, decorated in the gothic style. On the seventh and eighth floors are also armories, and on the ninth floor are private parlors and parlors for the use cf the Scottish Rites Bodies. Military Organizations. — The headquarters of the First Brig- ade, State militia, are at the South Armory, and of the Second Brigade at 2>7 Tremont Street. The First Corps of Cadets, M. V. M., an organization dating back to 1741, is quarted in an armory on Columbus Avenue, southeast corner of Ferdinand Street. The First Regiment of Infantry, and the First Battalion of Cavalry make their headquarters in the armory on Irvington Street. The armory of the Sixth Regiment of Infantry is on Green u V F. H. ROBERTS CO, BOSTON, MASS. VISITORS' MEMORANDA. 181 Street, corner of Chardon, and that of the Ninth Regiment of Infantry is on East Newton Street. Odd Fellows. — The headquarters of the several organizations in the city are in Odd Fellows' Building, 515 Trcmont Street. The Women's Educational and Industrial Union, 264 Boylston Street, has for its object "to increase fellowship among women, and promote practical methods for their educational, industrial, and social advancement." It maintains a reading-room, classes in bookkeeping, gymnastics, embroidery, millinery, language, etc.; lectures and entertainments free to men and women; re- ligious meetings on Sunday, for women only, and occasional health talks. An agency of direction gives information as to boarding-houses, summer resorts, schools, etc. A befriending committee visits the sick. In the lunchroom a simple bill of fare, at moderate prices, is presented, and women can bring their own lunch, and have the privilege of a comfortable room without charge. Young Men's Catholic Association, 41 East Newton Street, is similar in its aims and methods to the societies for young men mentioned below. Young Men's Christian Association, 458 Boylston Street. The work of this organization is too well known to require explana- tion. Strangers will receive a hearty welcome in the attractive quarters of the Boston branch of the society. Assistance is given to those seeking boarding-places or employment. Lectures and courses of study are provided. Young Men's Christian Union, 48 Boylston Street. — This so- ciety is open to young men over sixteen, regardless of race or sect. It promotes religious and philanthropic work and pro- vides courses of study. Young Men's Hebrew Association, 68 Springfield Street. — De- voted to the social and moral advancement of young men. Open only in the evening. Young Women's Christian Association, 68 Warrenton Street. — This Association does for young women what the Young IMen's Christian AssociatiMn does for 3'oung men. It maintains classes in various lines of training, a lodging-house, an employment bureau, and a business agency for the various occupations open to women. 182 GUIDE TO BOSTON. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. City Hall School Street Chamber of Commerce India and Central Streets County Jail Charles Street County Court House, containing County, Supreme, Superior, Municipal and Probate Courts, and office of the Register of Deeds Pemberton Square Post Office. .Devonshire Street, between Milk and Water Streets Public Library Copley Square State House Beacon Hill State Prison Prison Point, Charlestown Stock Exchange State and Kilby Streets United States Custom House State and India Streets SHOPPERS' GUIDE. The large department stores are: The Jordan-Marsh Company, Washington Street, between Summer and Avon. The R. H. White Company, corner Washington and Bedford Streets. Houghton and Dutton, corner Tremont and Beacon Streets. Dodge-Spear Company, Washington Street, between West and Boylston. Henry Siegel Company, Washington and Essex Streets. The large dry goods stores: C. F. Hovey ancl Company, Summer Street, near Washington. Chandler and Company, 151 Tremont Street- Shepard, Norwell and Company, 30 Winter Street. Gilchrist and Company, Washington Street, opposite Summer. R. H. Stearns and Company, corner Tremont Street and Tem- ple Place. Gentlemen's Clothing: Macullar, Parker Company, Washington, between Summer and Franklin. A. Shuman and Company, corner Washington and Summer Streets. The Continental Clothing House, corner Washington and Boylston Streets. VISITORS' MEMORANDA. 1^$ Ladies' Outfitters: L. P. Hollander and Company, 202 Boylston Street. Meyer, Jonasson and Company, corner Tremont and Boylston Streets (in Masonic Temple). A number of stores of this kind will be found on Washington Street, between Winter and Boylston. Boots and Shoes: Thayer. McNeil and Hodgkins, 47 Temple Place. The Henry H. Tuttle Company, corner Washington and Winter Streets. T. E. Moseley and Company, 145 Tremont Street. The Regal, Emerson and Douglas shoe stores will be found on Summer Street, between the Terminal Station and Bedford Street. « Gentlemen's Furnishings (Hatters, etc.): Collins and Fairbanks Company, 381 Washington, opposite Franklin. Lamson and Hubbard, 92 Bedford Street, 229 Washington Street. Gentlemen's Outfitters: Xoyes Brothers, corner Washington and Summer Streets. Jewelers: Shreve, Crump and Lowe Company, corner Tremont and West Streets. Bigelow, Kennard and Company, corner Washington and West Streets. A. Stowell and Company, 24 Winter Street. Numerous art stores will be found on Bromfield Street. Nearly all the book stores are situated on the lower part of Washington Street, between Bromfield and Newspaper Row. The more important are: DeWolfe, Fisk and Company, 365 Washington Street. Chas. E. Lauriat, 301 Washington Street. 184. GUIDE TO BOSTON. Old Corner Book Store, 27 and 29 Bromfield Street. Little, Brown and Company, 254 Washington Street. : On.Cornhill will be found numerous second-hand book stores. Souvenirs: "Geo. E. Homer's, on Winter Street, is the headquarters for .souvenirs of all kinds. If you are looking for SOUVENIRS you will find a large assortment at HOMER'S, 45 Winter St., Boston WE ARE HEADQUARTERS-Wholesale and Retail Also Diamonds, Watches, Jewelry and Silverware Unsurpassed in Richness, Flavor and Purity. ASK FOR Cbocolates "THE TASTE. TEI.L.S" Made by F. H. DOW (a CO. BOSTON, - - MASS NDEX. Page. Abcrjona "River 137 Adams' Houses. (Juincy 156 Agassiz Museum of C omi)arativfc Zoology 44 American Academy of Arts and Sciences 176 American L'nitarian Association Building 91 Ames IJuilding 70 Ames House, Dedham 154 Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company .'. 176 Apple Island 119 Appleton Chapel, Harvard 108 Arboretum, The Arnold 57 Architectural lUiilding, Harvard. 109 Arlington 137 Arlington Heights 137 Arlington Street Church 173 Armory of Ancient and Honor- able Artillery Company ........ 76 .\then;vum, lk)ston 33, 44, 91 Atlantic 154 I'.ack Bay Station 160 r.aitut Hill 135 I'.ass I'oint 120 I'.ates Hall. Public Library 16 Uattle Monument, Concord 144 I'.eacon Hill ....82,90, 92 P>eaver I'rook Reservation 61 Peck Hall. Cambridge 105 Pedford 141 Pellevue Hotel 91 Pell in Hand, The 67 Perkeley Temple 173 Peverly 121, 134 Beverly Farms 134 lUackstone Street 77 lilue Hills Reservation, The 62 I'.oard of Trade 72 Poston and Albany Railway 159 Poston Elevated Railway Com- pany 164 Poston Light 123 Poston and Maine System 157 Poston Massacre Monument, Common 50 Boston Massacre, Site of 72 Poston Medical Library, The.... 33 Boston Museum, The 70 Itoston Natural History ^luseum. 44 Poston Public Parks System, The 52-59 Boston, Revere Beach, and Lynn Railroad 160 Boston Society of Natural His- tory 176 Boston Stone 77 Page. Poston Sytnphony Orchestra 176 Poston L'niversity 91 Potanical (larden, Camliridge. .44, 113 Bowdoin Mansion 92 J'ovvdoin Square 93 J5oylston Hall, Harvard 108 Brewster's Island 123 Brighton District 96-98 British Coffee House 72 Promfield Street Church 173 Brook Farm , 100 Brookline 145-148 Bug Light 123 Bulfinch Place Unitarian Church. 93 Bunch of Crapes Tavern 72 Punker Hill Collection 44 Punker Hill Monument 95 Purial Hill, Plymouth 128 Purying Ground, The Old, Cam- bridge 112 Burymg Hill, Marblehead 132 Pussey Institution, The 57 Cab and Carriage Systems 163 Cambridge 103 Cambridgeport 103 Carney Hospital 102 Castle Island 58, 122 Cathedral of the Holy Cross 173 Central Purying-Ground, The 51 Central Church 173 Chamber of Commerce 73 Charlesbank, The 54, 56 Charlestown District 94 Charlestown Graveyard 96 Chelsea 131 Chestnut Hill Reservoir 98, 148 Children's Rooms, Public Library. 26 Choate, Rufus, Statute of 91 Christ Church 79, 173 Christ Church, Cambridge 113 Churches 172 Church of the Advent 173 Church of the Immaculate Con- ception 173 City Hall 67 City Hall, Cambridge 103 Clarendon Street Paptist Church. 173 Clark's Island, Plymouth 129 Clearing House 72 Clubs 170 Coastwise Steamers 160 Cohasset 126 Cole's Hill, Plymouth 129 Colonial Club House 105 Columbia Road 58 Commercial Point 101 Common, The 48-51 Common, The, Cambridge 112 20O INDEX. Page. Common, Lynn • • • 132 Commonwealth Avenue 4b, &b Concord ....;• •.• ^^^ Congregational Library, 1 he ^^ Coop's Hill Burying Ground h{ Copp's Hill Terraces o4 Corn Court ■■ '» Council Chamber, State House... Sb Court House ^\ Court House, The Old ^^ Cow Fort, Marblehead.... l;io Craddock House, Medford 13b Crow Point l;:^ Custom House j^ Dane Hall, Harvard 106 Danvers ]i^ Dedham ..■••. ]^/. Dedham Historical Society........ 154 Deer Island ...120, 122 Delivery Room, Public Library... 21 Dexter House, Dedham 154 Dock Square '^ Dorchester District J^^^ Dorchester Heights 5y Dorchester Heights Monument... 10^ Doric Hall, State House 84 Duxbury 1^" East Boston ^^ Eastern Point • • ; ■ • l-^* Elks, Benevolent and Protective Order of }{^ "Elmwood," Cambridge........... 115 Entrance Gates, Harvard.. 104, 105, 109 Essex Institute, Salem 1^^ Every-Day Church 17^ Fairbanks House, Dedham 154 Faneuil Hall '-^ Faneuil Hall Collection 44 Farragut, Admiral, Sta'.ue of 59 Ferries j«^ Field's Corner l^l Fine Arts Room, Public Library.. 29 First African M. E. Church 17^ First Baptist Church j'^ First Church in Boston 1_(^ First Church of Christ............ l'^ First Parish Church, Cambridge.. 112 First Parish Church, Roxbury.... 101 First Presbyterian Church 173 First Spiritual Temple 174 Fogg Art Museum, Harvard 109 Forest Hills Cemetery 99 Fort Independence 5S, iz^ Fort Warren 1^^ Fort Winthrop.............. 122 Franklin, Benjamin, Birthplace... bb Franklin, Benjamin, Statue of 67 Franklin Park 57 Fraternities 1^6 Fresh Pond.... 116 Gallop's Island 123 Gallows Hill, Salem 133 Page. Garden Court Street 77 Gardner Brewer Fountain, The, Common 50 Garrison House, Medford 136 General Theological Library, The. 33 George's Island 123 Girls' Reformatory 122 Gloucester 121, 134 Gore Hall, Harvard 108 Governor's Island 119, 122 Granary Burying Ground 80 Grand Army of the Republic 176 Grand Staircase, Public Library.. 12 Great Brewster 124 Great Head 117 Green Dragon Tavern 76 Greyhound Tavern 101 Hancock Mansion 92 Hancock Tavern 76 Handel and Haydn Society 176 Harbor and Beaches 117 Harrison Square 101 Harvard Bridge 103 Harvard College, Harvard 105 Harvard Hall, Harvard 108 Flarvard, John, Statue of 109 Hawthorne's Birthplace 133 Hingham 124, 154 Historic-Genealogical Collection.. 44 'Historic-Genealogical Society 178 Holworthy Hall, Harvard 108 Home for Aged Women 93 Home for Female Paupers 122 Hotels 166 House of Industry 122 House of Seven Gables 133 Hull 124 Hull Street 79 Huntington Avenue Station 160 Jacob Sleeper Hall 91 Jamaica Plain 98 Jamaica Pond 56 Terusalem Road 124 King's Chapel 68, 174 King's Chapel Burying Ground 68-70 Lechmere House, Cambridge 114 Lee House, Cambridge 115 Leif Ericson, Statue of 56 Lexington 138 Lexington Green 138 Libraries 7-33 Long Beach 135 Longfellow House, Cambridge 114 Longfellow Park, Cambridge 114 Long Island 122 Loring-Greenough House 98 Louisburg Square 92 Lowell, James Russell, Home 115 Lynn 131 Lynn Woods 59, 132 Magnolia 121 Maiden 131 MDEX. Page. Manchester 121 Mann, Horace, Statue of S2 Manual Training School, Cam- bridge 103 Marblehcad 121, 132 Marine Tark 58 Marshfield 126 Martin Luther Orphan Home 100 Masonic Temple 178 Massachusetts Charitable Me- chanic Association ITtJ Massachusetts General Hospital.. 93 .Massachusetts Hall, Harvard 107 Massacliusetts Historical Museum 44 Massachusetts Historical Society.. 178 Massachusetts Historical Society, Library 33 Massachusetts Horticultural So- ciety 178 Medford 136 Medical Library, Boston 33 Meeting-House Hill 101 Memorial Hall, Dedham 152 Memorial Hall. Harvard 109 Memorial Hall, Lexington 140 Memorial Hall. State House 84 Metropolitan Boston 130 Metropolitan Park System. The.. 59-63 Middlesex Fells Reservation 60 Milmore Memorial 99 M ilton 156 Minot's Ledge Lighthouse 126 AHssion Church of St. John the Evangelist 93 Moon Street 77 Moulton's Point 94 Mount Auburn Cemetery 115, 116 Mount Bowdoin 101 Mount Hope Cemetery 100 Mount \'ernon Church 174 Blount Vernon Street 92 Museums 34-45 Museum of Comparative Zoology, Harvard 110 Museum of Pine Arts, The 34-44 Mystic Lakes 137 Mvstic Valley 135 Xahant 119 Xahant Beach 132 Nantasket Beach 124, 154 National Monument, Plymouth... 128 Natural History Museum, Li- brary 33, 94 Naval Museum 95 Navy Yard 94 New-Church Theological School.. 105 New Downer's Landing.. 156 New England Historic-Genea- logical Society, Library 33 New Jerusalem Church 174 New Old South Church 174 Newtons, The 149 Pack. Newspaper Room. Public Librarv. 11 x\ew York, .\cw Haven and Hartford Railway 159 Nix's Mate 122 Norfolk Downs .,', 154 North End Park- ..52-54 North Shore 117 North Square .', 77 North Union Station 1.57 Norumbega Park 150 Norumbega Tower 150 Odd Fellows isi Old Boston [ 64-93 Old Corner Book Store 66 "Old Ironsides" 95 Old North Bridge, Concord. . .143, 144 Old South Meeting-House 64 Old South Museum 45 Old State House Collection 45 Olmsted Park ^6 Organizations 176 Parades on The Common 49, 50 Paradise Road 132 Parks and Pleasure Grounds 46 Park Street Church 174 Park Street Subway Station 80 Parting Stone, Roxburv 101 Paul Revere's House . .' 77 Peabody 134 Peabody Museum 110 Peabody Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology 45 Pemberton's Landing 124 Pemberton Square 91 People's Temple 174 Periodical Rooms. Public Library. 11 Perkins Institution for the Blind. 59, 102 "Pie Alley" 67 Pigeon Hill 135 Pilgrim Hall, Plymouth 128 Pilgrim Land 156 Pinckney Street 92 Places of Amusement 169 Pleasure Bay, Marine Park 58 Plymouth 126, 156 Plymouth Rock 128 Point Allerton 124 Point of Pines 119 Powder Horn Hill 131 President Roads 122 Prospect Hill, Hingham 124 Prospect Hill Park 151 Province Court 67 Province House 67 Provincetown 129 Public Buildings 182 Public Garden, The 51, 52 Public Library, The 7 Public Library, Cambridge 103 Pulpit Rock, Plymouth 129 Quadrangle, Harvard 106 INDEX. Page. Quarantine Hospital 123 Ouest of the Holy Grail 21 Quincy 154-156 Quincy Hall, Cambridge 105 Quincy, Josiah, Statue of, Cam- bridle 110 Quincy, Josiah, Statue of. City Hall 67 Quincy Market 73 Quincy Square, Cambridge 105 Radcliffe College, Harvard 110 Railway Terminals 157-160 Rainsford's Island 123 Representatives' Chamber, State House 90 Restaurants 167 Revere Beach 119, 131 Rindge Gifts to Cambridge 103 Rockport 135 Roger Williams Church 133 Roger Williams House 133 Rotch Observatory, Blue Hill Reservation 63 Roxbury District 100 Roxbury Latin School 101 Royall House, Medford 13G Ruggles Street Baptist Church... 174 St. John's Theological School, Cambridge 113 St. Paul's Church 174 Spy Pond 138 Salem 121, 133 Salem Street 79 Salem Willows 121 Salvation Army Posts 174 Sander's Theatre, Harvard 109 Sargent Hall, Public Library 27 Scituate 126 Scollay Square 70, 92 Sears Building 70 Seaver Hall, Harvard 108 Second Church ^ 174 Second Universalist Church 174 Senate Chamber, State House 86 Shaw Memorial, The 51, 82 Shirley Gut 119 Shoppers' Guide 182-184 Societies 176 Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument, Common 50 Soldiers' Home, Chelsea 131 Soldiers' Monument, Cambridge.. 112 Soldiers' Monument, Lynn 132 Somerset Club House 92 South Boston 102 South Church 174 South Shore 121 South Terminal Station 159 Spectacle Island 122 Spring Lane 66 Squantum 154 Standish Memorial, Duxbury 126 Page. State House, Massachusetts 82 • State House, Old..... 70 State Library of Massachusetts. .33, 90 Stock Exchange 72 Stony Brook Woods Reservation. 61 Street Car Service 164 Subway 164 Sudbury 145 Sun Tavern 76 Swampscott 121, 132 Symphony Hall 371 Telegraph Hill 124 Theatres 169 Theological Library, The General. 33 Thompson's Island 122 Ticknor House 82 Tory Row, Cambridge 113 Town Pump 72 Trans- Atlantic Steamers 162 Transportation about Town 163 Tremont Building 67 Tremont Temple 174 Tremont Street Methodist Church 174 Trinity Church 40, 176 Trinity Place Station 160 Trolley Trips 130 Truant School 122 Tufts College 136 Turkey Hill 137 United States Naval Hospital 131 University Hall, Harvard 108 Upper Mystic Pond 137 Vassall Houses, Cambridge 114 Vernon, Admiral, Statue of 72 Visitors' Memoranda 157 Vose House 156 Wadsworth House, Harvard 106 Waltham 151 Washington, Ball's Equestrian Statue of 51 Washington Elm, Cambridge 113 Watertown 152 "Wayside Inn" 145 Webster, Daniel, Statue of 82 West Roxbury District 98 Winchester 136 Winter Hill 135 Winthrop 117 Winthrop, John, Statue of 70 Woburn 137 Wollaston 154 Women's Educational and Indus- trial Union 181 Wood Island Park 94 Young Men's Catholic Association 181 Young Men's Christian Associa- tion 181 Young Men's Christian Union 181 Young Men's Hebrew Association 181 Young Women's Christian Asso- ciation 181 LETT'S LONDRES UNION MADE 10c. ^. BERNARD LETT & CO. ^^g^^ 88 Broad Street, Boston OF EVERY COUNTRY AND THE PRINCIPAL CITIES MAPS ROAD MAPS For Automobilists, Cyclists and Pedestrians : : : : GUIDE BOOKS. GLOBES & ATLASES Of Every Description MAP DRAWING, ENGRAVING & PRINTING C. S. HAMMOND & COMPANY Publishers, Importers and Dealers Telephone 6399 Cortlandt 152 BROADWAY, NEW YORK A Little Better than Any Other c. c. £ I CENT CIGARS HAMMONDS NEW MAPS Road Map of Northern New Jersey Showing highways with automobile routes desig- nated; railways with stations; township, borough, city and county lines; drainage and other topographical features. Extends north to Port Jervis, N. Y., east to New York City, south to Perth Amboy, and west to Slatington, Penn. Scale, three miles to one inch. Size, 22 X 32 inches. Price, dissected on cloth, $1 .25 ; folded in cover, 25 cents. Road Map of Central New Jersey Same features as Road Map of Northern New Jersey. Same scale and size. 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Railroad and Trade Centre Map of the United States Showing railroads with through lines prominent ; all cities of over 5,000 inhabitants, with population indi- cated by symbols ; most comprehensive map of our country of similar size published. Size, 1 8 x 22 inches. Scale, 140 miles to one inch. Price, folded in cover, 25 cents. C. S. HAMMOND & CO., Publishers 152 BROADWAY. NEW YORK LiJ P^M C •M IS CO o M-i (A d) X CO g • PM p— N o u v< ns u C X < ^ H 5 c/:i K Qu < D^ o o H 11 •• O *j H CQ Oh §1 *• S tation, Princi :: C/5 CO z nal S and <: 4-) S j2 •• mJ rt i)'5 >- 1 H 4iJ (A a: g 3 ^ «3 r.l U- v:i<; C/5 o CO H U > I Z U cu 2z ^ a: § H O CO < S o 120 Oo8 X ^ RJ 0^ d C/5 JUL 30 1907 et$«A-/- MAP OF PROVIDENCE, R. I. MAP OF RHODE ISLAND AND NARRAGANSETT BAY. MAP OF BOSTON. Compliments of MERCHANTS & MINERS TRANSPORTATION COMPANY. n W^ L^ci^>^:Si^^ i°v - - ^^^/ /\ °^^P** ^^'% DOBBS BROS. IBRARV BINDING T.AUGUSTINE " ^ A FLA. ^ ^ LIBRARY Oh uuiNw. 014 065 600 8