TT 590 .B&S Copy 1 A COMPLETE SYSTEM F THE RESULT OF 30 YEAE8 PRACTICE &EXPERIENCE BY W. W. BRUNDAGE. "Art is rule, Science is reason." NEW YORK: Printed by A. MARKER, 83 Essex Street, between Broome and Delancy Streets. loev EffTT- 0^ ■f '•I - .^1 (' r A COMPETE SYSTEM OF CUTTING. THE RESULT OF THIRTY YEARS PRACTICE & EXPERIENCE ® «?¥ ® "Art is rule, Science is reason." lif^ /6 - S?'^"^ Mr. Brundage, the author of this work has heen personally and practically known to lis tor many years, haying- been connec- ted with onr establishment in ihe capacity of foreman since 18(k^ dnrino- which time an ample opportunity has een afforded of this .,System of cutting" which he now projjoses to introduce to tlie trade. Wc take ii'reat pleasure theretV)re. in endorsino- Mr. B. as a man possessing the highest order of talent and ability in his j^rofession. and we cheerfullv rin-oinriumd this work, emanatiiig from his pen. as a most valuable auxiliary, and one which we think will command the uniyersal ap- proval of the trade. Ri'NK v^' AVhitk. CHiLDREN'S AND BOYS' GLOTHiNG AT V.'HCiLb-SALE 393 BROADV/AY. KE'W YORK. PREFACE. 1 wish to submit to the inspection of the trade some ideas upon the art of , cutting garments, the result of thirty years study and experiment. I do not pretend to have found a perfect plan, but I do pretend to have found some- tliing practical and consistant, that will stand the test of reason easy to attain, and as clear as an idea can very well be made. And as I have had so many years practical experiance, I trust I will be dealt with leniently by an enlightened and inteho-ent fraternity, when I say, that in my humble opinion the trade is at this time more in want of a correct principal for their guide than at any former period, as the rapid changest hat take place in tlie different styles dem- ands a plan to secure the wished, for results that will accommodate itself to any style and to any operators cajjaiity. The simplicity of my ideas are (Itliink) their chief recommendation to.particular notice. And as my object has been in getting this principal into operation, to benefit myself alone, and findino; it work to my entire satisfaction, and with cer- tainty there might be others that would like to avail themselves of it, I have been induced to place it before the public, in a form that will give all a chance to obtain it. Respectfully, Yours W. W. Brundage^ Introductory Remarks, Tlie autbiir is liiUy Hciiaible of the critical position in \vliiclilio places kimself by attempting- to establish a true and practical plan for the government ofthc trade. The majority of the trade will by this mode be enabled to improve their ^ircviously acquired knowledge, and the young man without practice may now obtain a knowledge equal to the best in the trade, upon this simple and easy Biode, which has been mat- ured by the most assiduous application and study. What I have sought in uiy practice is to produce a result giving what a line taste, both in the operator and wearer would desire. Tiiere are a great many systems in use and all purporting to have found the result required, but in my studies of the difie- i-eut plans that I have used, I have failed to discover the one thing needful namely the ''how" to obtain a fine fitting gar- ment, for all the varieties of form, that present themselves to test the abilities of the cutter as an artist and man of science. And what my experience is, lias been the experience of almost vvety one in the trade; ask any one iu the trade who has had some experience, what system he uses, and he will answer "none;" he can not lind one that will do the work for which it was intended^ and therefore has recourse to his own judge- ment obtained in many cases by long years of practice and expensive alterations, for, if a plan will not apply to every conformation of form and shape, it cannot be admitted to be of general use. The author having accomplished what others Irave in vain sought to do, namely, discovered a line which shall remain an unbroken straight line while all the other parts of the garment are projected frum it with unering cer- tainty, giving the forepart and back their true relative po- sition, one to the other, causing one to follow the other, with a, positive certainly, so that one may not be too long or too short for the other^ so that it is not left to the judgement of the operator, to know whether he has made the correct varia- tion or not, and in the end a large and expensive alteration, attending his best eilbrts with a wish that he might obtain a correct plan for all his future efforts. I therefore solicit the attention of the trade to this impor- tant discovery, not doubting, but they will acknowledge, that it IS not only useful to them as cutters, but a great saving of their property and reputation, all being more or less depen. dent on their knowledge of fitting the different garments to the great diversity ot shape and form, that he has to contend wiUi. This mode explains the cause of all the expensive al- terations, that the trade has had to contend with. It clearly demonstrates the errors of all the proceeding authors and sliows that their own calculations and aniitonical and g-eome_ trii;al rules and systems for fitting the ditt'erent garments^ without being subject to doubtful variations as this mode makes its own variations which is clearly shown. True science will always produce cause and eii'ect, it assists the mind and removes all doubt and conjecture (which arc harrasing to minds of very many of the trade) and enables the uperatc)r to pursue his calling with pleasure, profit and satisfaction to himself and his customers. Teachers of systems liji to the present age generally inform new beginners at the finishing or last lesson, that their improvement will depend on theirpracticojthey tell them nowyouhave asystem(iutende d)to 'il all pri. portions and positions with wiiich to commence busi- ness. The young man with a limited capital and high aspi- rations starts business and governed by said system may loose his money and co)inection before lie has gained a practical knowledge by his experience, and if he should be so fortu- nate as to stand his ground, e'/en then his one system pre- vents an increase of respectable connection. Why? because he has been cutting by that same old system for ten or twenty years, without being a practical cutter, or even the hope of his. ever becoming what might be termed a passable mechanic let him refer to his books and count the cost of his experi- ments and what a large amount of money he has expended in trying to gain a little insight into one of the noblest and most difficult trades, in fact it has become a general idea in the trade, that there is not nor can there be any such thing as a scientific plan devised to guide men in and through one of tiie most tangled labyrintlis tliat ever come under the observa- tion of mankind and made so entirely by the many erroneous ideas and systems that have from time to time been published and sewn broadcast over both, Euiiipe and America. One will say my system is a system that works from proportions of the breast measure, and then (I would say there can be no such thing) another will say my system consists in taking the mea- sure with a square and making" the application to the Cloth as taken (I would say there can be no sueh thing.) Another will say my system consists iu transfering the figure to the cloth and thereby producing a fine lilting garment (I would say there can be no such thing.) I have used almost every system that has fronri time to time made their appearance since I have been in the trade and with, results that were not very pleasing and lam well acquainted with a great number of the different plans now in use, which I have taken the trouble to investi- gate and what merit they may be entitled to, I am perfectly willing to acknowledge as I expect I shall be judged accor ! ding to the merits of my work. I shall try to prove that the balance of a coat depends upon the back and forepart, being ] the right dimensions for one another, and as I have been seek- | ing and have failed to discover in any of the systems the solu - j tion of the matter above mentioned, I conclude that any thing | new to the trade will be hailed with a feeling of greatfulness, i at least to the great majority. I will give the three princi- ij ple13 above named a passing notice; 1st. The division of mea- sure principle does not, nor can it work, without making (what are termed by its admirers) variations which things I am pleased to say are very doubtful things, because they ex- clude all scientific ideas, and throws the whole matter upon the judgement of the cutter, and there are but very few men in our trade, that have ever lived (in my opinion) whose judge- ment is sufficient for all tliat is required, and therefore engend- ers doubt and confusion and bewilders the mind of the mecha- nic, making him exclaim: 0, I wish I knew whether this coa will fit or not, and so with every coat he cuts, which keeps hif mind on a continual stretch, and the tension is only taken ofi when he sees the coat on the customer, and has learnec whether he has made a fit or an alteration. I do not consider it worth my attention to give the namei of any of the gentlemen, that have contributed their talent i this line, and that have sewn broadcast over Europe and Amf •• o lica, an amount uf urnjr, that it will take ages to counteract, their names are as familiar to the trade as Louseliold words, and in the principles they liave laid (hjwn, there may be some merit, and dune A-ery well for the times in ^yJlich they were published. But systems of division of jiieasurc are and ought to be consigned to the past as wortJiless trash not worth an hours notice. And as tor the principal tliat takes the measure with a square, and through ignorance undertakes to make the application of the same to the cloth I merely say that such a thing is utterly impossible, that no such thing, as taking the measure of a conical figure with a scpiare, and making the application on a plain, can exist with any degree of certainty and like the division principal at tbis day, it has its disciples and admirers for the want of something better, and as for the jirinciple called the transfer. I liave never seen any thing yet, tiiat would do the work for which it was intended. But as this is a progressive age and people, all che different works, that have been published on the .subject i if cutting, has served to I create a spirit of inquiry and has led to the accomphshment. of securing to future ages a plan that will in its working prod- uce a fine fitting garment, and accomodate itself to every va- riety of figure and style of garment with all the accuracy of a mathematical problem. It Las often been said to me, that a tape measure was not, nor can be any thing accurate, whereby to obtain the form of all the different %urs, that the cutter meets in hm practice, gut 1 will here say, that suiierficiaJ measurement with a tape line has answered my purpose beyond my most sanguine hopes, and is in my humble opinion the only means, that will ever be successfully used, to obtain the measures of the different figures of crstomere tliat pre- sent themselves before the cutter, and the .mly instrument, necessary to obtain the garment after the measure so taken,' as far as measurement is concerned, all of which is respect- fully submitted and devlicated to the trade. By The Author DIRECTIONS FOR MEASURES FOR A COAT. Fir^t mark for the top of back and then ascertain where the seam of sleeve Avili come in the back scye, let your tape measure extend across the back from back scye to back scye, and where the line crosses the back seam make a mark as at A, make as at 2, then mark at natural length of waist. Now place the measure at 1 and measure to A, say 5^ inches to 2 x 9 inches, to the natural waist 1 6-}y, to the full length of waist 10, and then to the length of coat 39 inches; then raise the arm and bend the elbow at right angles with the front of Breast and and measure to the width of back 7i, elbow 21| and full length of sleeve 32. then measure how lar- ge vou wish your armho- 1('15^; then from the top (^f back at 1 around in front of arm to the same shormbjo })lace, say 27 inches; from A around in front of the arm to A, say 26^ inches, from 1 around in front to 2, say 23 j in- ches from 1 to natural waist 24 inches, and size of breast and waist under the coat, breast 35, waist 30. Recapitulation of measure: 5^, 16^,1 19, 39, nh 2H, 32, 15^, 27, 2(>i 23i424,;_35, 30. The measures for an over garment are the same as for the frock coat. For a round shouldered man a mea- sure as from 1 to the middle of back scye should be taken which would make the measures stand, say h\ down, 7^} wide and 8| inches to 1. FOR PANTS. Place the measure at the hip as lugh as you wisli the pants, and measure the outside seam, say 42 inches; then measure the length of inside seam, 32 inches; size of waist 30, hip3 6,and the size required at bottom, say 1 Hinches. FOR A VEST. The measures for a vest arc the shoulder measure, 27, breast 35, waist 30, length 25, and then as high as you wish ^\q vest to close, say 10- inches. I have endeavoured to give all the measures that are necessary, and as few as possible, because 1 think, that many measures only tend to con- fuse the operator. — 7 — Explanation for Frack Coat Plate 1. It will be perceived, that the mea- sure from 1 around in ^^front of arm to 1 is 27 inches, and the measure from 1 around in front of arm to 2 is 23}. Now the great question is, — what shall we do with these measures, the breast measure being 35 inches. Now suppose w^e make a few figures by way of illustration. Lenght of waist Breast measare. ShoaMer meainre. Blade measure I6i 35 27 23} IGi 34 27 22| 16| 33 27 22} Now the above fio-ures are nothino- more th an every mail meets almost every day in his practice, and after we have found the measures to vary to such a great degree, the question naturally comes up — Avhat shall we do with them to produce the same results for one fio-ure, that we do for another, na- mely a good fitting coat for all? Now we Avill make a few more figures. Shoulder measure. Blade measure. 27 9 36 27 9 3G 27 9 3G You Avill perceive, by observing, that one third added to the shoulder mea- sure of itself that you have the remain- der of 36 inches for the whole three of the figures, and that the blade measure varies itself by the addition of one half of itself to itself, producing two distinct scales, to get out the shoulder of the (•oat (or any other garment fitting the J 23:1^ llf 34| 22| 111 34-1 221 iH m shoulders) by (and whatlman by scales) are graduated inches 27 producing the exact inch and all other measures are in- ches in the proportion that the measures are in proportion to 27, So to draft the garment to 27,and 23} you wdll use the scales, agreeing with half of 36x18 and half of 35x1 7 } inches, which agre es w ith 23} blade. Now^ tovary thisfor 27 shoul- der and 22} blade, you will use 18 and 16} scales, and the application makes the variation in the draft complete, which will be explained as we go along. It will be found necessary to cut a pattern, as the back and forepart are drafted at the same time. The scale produced by the blade measure is used from K to 16f as 3^, 9, 12 and 16f numbers and from the back seam for the Avidth of back 8} and 7^ No. And the scale produced by the first or upper shoulder measure produces the balance of the shoulder as follows: Unes B and C forma square and from K on line C 3^, 9,12 and 16f of blade measure. Now square line H from 16f, you now take the scale by the shoulder measure, and from 9 to strike line H at P, 14}^ as re- presented by Vlotted lines, and from 1 2 to at top of back 14f , after obtaining the top of back you go from down the back seam 4^, 5f, 6}, 16^ and 19 inches and to the full length of the coat. Now^ square the lines and go across the back Si No. from 4| and 7i No. from 6}. (Or a very good plan is to get out the back entirely by measurement). You now square from 3^ and carry in your back as represented, making -^ 8 -^ the natural length of Wcaist, strike on line M, square line D from B, at the full length of waist. The distance from K to 21 is obtained by a scale agreeing with the breast measure, 35 inches or what- ever it may be, and the curve is cast from K. You now follow down line E 4i No. from P aud square to I, vfliich giVes the neck gorge. You now take the second shoulder measure, and from 5 J on the back seam to 12 and to curve N (which is cast from 12) will be 1 inch niore than the measure From P 5f No. to strike the curve N. gives the close of the shoulder. The dotted line represent- ing the side seam,givesfrom | to -| of an inch well, if the customer is flat ^ inch, if round f of an inch. You are now ready to close up all the points and give shape to the garment. It will, I think,be readily perceived that it matters not what shape you cut the back,as the forepart must of necessity fojdow. The sleeve and skirt are so plain, I do not consider it necessary to give any explanation further than I have giv- en, in the diagrams, and the directions here laid down is the same for all tlie (lifl'erent coat forms except the change of No. on the scales and the application of the 2nd shoulder measure,wliich you will hnd noted for each draft. My ideas are a little different from most men in tlie trade in as much as I take for my model a first rate fitting garment of tlie style I wish to cut, and by supply- ino- the same conditions in all cases, I produce in all cases the same results. On plate 2 from of on back seam to 12 and to curve N is f of an inch more than the measure. Plate 4, }j inch more; Plate 5, 2 J inches more; Plate 7, 2^ inches more; On Plate 6 the second shoulder mea- sure is not apphed, as you will see by refering ta the plate. All over garments are drafted by the same scales tliat body coats are^ the addition being made in the draft instead of the measure and here let me observe, that a man can never be too careful in taking his measur(\ THE VEST PLATE 8 Is drafted in tlie same way, that the coat is with 3 scales, and will I think, very readily begot. The distance from A to B will always be H- inches more than ~ of the whole waist liieasure, and then I always make from B to C, and D to E 3 inches more tlian half the waist measure. THE CAPE PLATE 7 From I to 6 the length of cajjc from (> to 5, 1 J inches, and the neck of cape is cut by the back and forepart Avith the shoulber, closing at 4 as 1, 2, 3, take oflF the same length in front tliat you do back and find a sweep between 1 and 3, that will strike both points, for tlie bottom of cape. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 3. The first move in drafting a pair of pants is to select scales agreeing with the hip and botton measures as for example; if the hip measure is 36 and the botton measure 18 inches the same scale of 36 will do the whole. But suppose you should wish to cut to 36 hip and 16 bottom you will use two scales, the scales of 36 and 32 and so for every variation of measures the numbers will follow as given on the plate, A being the base line, line D is drawn through 4^ at bottom and 9 at hip from D to B is j of the waist mea^ sure curve C from 9. (The dotted li- nes show how a paii' of paints are made to take the shape ot the leg.) A straight line from line A to cut curve C for the raise of back part. And form the pants as represented. EXPLANATION OF PLATE 10. Draw line D from o to 16^ and 19 inches From 16|inches to curve A 1 fin- ches more than the balance measure. From o curve B 14|. From o curve E 11) J drawHnefromGtoFanclfromO 4^^ and 13f square from 4^ by Hne C and square from the back seam to strike line I 21 of the Breast measure scale, From o 5f down line D. From 5f to F and curve J f of an inch more than the 2nd shoulder measure from G to strike cur- ve J 5f. From F to curve K 14^. Now lay the back in, at the top from 161 vvhich will find the scye point as represented. Curve L by H from 21. You are now ready to close up the shoulder of the coat. M is curved from G and to form the waist seam you raise from the point of the sideseam 2 inches and take from M at the size of tlie waist 2 inches, which completes the draft. This draft I consider far in advance of the one I have given on Plate 1 and combines the measures in such a way as to pro- duce a proof for any system that is now in use or that has been used or ever will be used. The dotted lines follow the application of the measures. The Blade measure scale is not used in this draft. The Breast measure only once fromtheback seam to number 21. All tlie rest of the numbers ])y the 1st shoul- der scale. Plate J) is drafted in the same way that plate 10 is drafted witli the exception of the change of the numbers. "^ M i fi l ,f , 1 , /P, I i f, 1/ 1 - ^ ^^^,^^^+1:^:^' ^;^']:^^ ' '.1^^ rTTTTTr I I I U~rl I I I r r-" — I ' ' ' 'I ' ' ' ' ' ' 'l ' ' ' ' l ' I I i| I I I I, I I I i | I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I T~~r T TTTr l y h I it, I i f I I l /hl I it l I i t, I ,t rfn4^^r+r^^^^^r4V+. h I , h I , k , I ii /K I i /K I i /K I ,, ^ K I , /K I ,>, I .>■, I I K i,)'' i I , >M , K 1 1 K I , k , I ■ 1 ....................... - . rr-r l - i I I I I I Ti I I I I I I I I I I I t^. t . 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I it i I ifi I i /K I i/K I iti I i-ti I i/h I i tV i l it; I I K I I h I , h I I h I I K h h I I fi I I ^: Kl I I tl I i fi I I t l I l^^^ l I it, 1 i t I I I t ^T#,f T-K-hr-I^.H I K I I ,K I I \\ I I Ki I I K 1 I h I I f I P r i tl I i lK I i t l I i t l I i ti lifi l-rT^^ II I I I ^3 I I IT I I I n I IT I ' h I iti I i '\ I I i t i I I K i I I Ki I I K I I h I I K i I I K 1 if^ I I I I I I I I I Kr+T^K-l-T-fnhrfH-l-^-^T^^^^ I i t i I i t i I i f i tr^fr-^-M^ i I i K I i h I i ,K i I i V^ I i h =h I I iT i I iTi I I T l I i T nH iT i I I Tl I iT I I i ^r+^ I I II I I r I I I I I I I I I I M T-r fv K i I i t i I i /K -t-T- t i I iti I it i I i ti n ^i 1 1 h I i i K I i ,h I i,h I i, h \ \U \ if i ^ T-TT TLATE I. Kuti-rel accopling to Act of Congress in th« Distriit.if New York. ycr IS«7 l.y W. W. Rrun.la,.. i„ tU. CUtUs offi..e of the IMstri.t Court of the U. S. of th. Scuhcru PLATE ri. •-•urt r.( (he U S. (<,r (he Son(hcrn District of New York. PLATE III. Entored according to Act of Congress in tbo year 1867 by W. W. Bniii- dage in the C'leiks office of the District Court of the U. S. for the Soutliern District of New York. PLATE IV. EntsreJ according to Act of Congress in the year 1867 by VC. W. Brun- dage in the Clerks efficeof the District Court of the U. S. for the Southern District of Nrw York. PLATE V. N FROM 19% Eiitpr(nl accnrdiiig to Act of Congress in the yc.ir lc:l!7 liv V. \\'. lirund.igi' in of the U. S. for the Southern LMslric-t .ifNfw York. iIm- Clc-rlii! olfieef the District Court PLATE VI. M^,ur;n ,vvmmug to Act ot CWress in Die year I8C7 by "W W wwfn"; "% v''''"v "!^'' "^'^^ ^'"'"'' C-Jurt of the TJ.S.of.h, hontnern District of Nt-w York. PLATE VI r. . <•<. .1. v»., i-iwl,vV \V BrandaiTP in il" Clerks ofiicef the District Court Ku:iT«J acccrdiuB to Act of Congress in tlif >c.ii I l>/ i,\ \ . w . nrana.ii," I the U. S. lor tlie Southern Fiislrict ofNcw York. PLATE VIII. Kntei«J according to Act of Congress in the jear 1867 by W. W. Bnind.ige in the C'lcikg office of the District Court of the U. S. for the Southern District of NewTork. PLATE IX. Ent.red .ccording to Act of Congress in the ye;ir 1667 by W. W. Biuiidage in tbeClerk. .ffice of theDistrictConrt of the U.S.fortheSoutl.crn District uf New York. Plate X. J 5%. Eiitsred according to Act of Congress in tlie year 1807 by W. W. Brnnrlago in tlie C'k-rli office of the District Court of tbe U. S. for the Southern District of New York. LIBRPRY OF CONGRESS 014 082 769 1 #