ESTELLE RYAN SNYDER The Land of Promise and Golden Opportunity By Estelle Ryan Snyder " The United States of America are destined to be the most powerful coimtry on earth." — Napoleon Published by Estelle Ryan Snyder 1308 Ashland Buildinj.- Chieaffo LIBRARY of CONGRESS Two Copies Received DEC 6 1905 . CoDyright Entry cuss CXl XXc, No. COPY B. Copyright 1905 by Estelle Ryan Snyder Chicagro, Illinois All ria-hts reserved FOREWORD. HE "Land of Promise and Golden Opportunity'' foreshadows in its title the enthusiasm with which it was penned. Prepared for a delightful trip, Mrs. Snyder left Chicago June 1, 1905, to join the National Editorial Association at St. Louis, for a tour of the "Golden West." She went prepared to be pleased, as she recalled a journey through that part of the territory many years ago; she returned fairly bubbling over with pleasure, not only from the most gracious and wonderful hospitality showered upon the editors on sight- seeing bent, Init at the grandeur of the scenery, and the mar- velous promise of the country for those who were ready to claim the wealth and comfort awaiting them. With courage, perseverance and patience as capital to invest the "Land of Promise and Golden Opportunity" has a warm welcome for those who seek health, wealth and pleasure under its brilliant skies and amid its fertile fields. From her desire to share the magnificent tour with those who could not accompany her this little book is sped on its mission of cheer. CAROLINE A. HULING. Chicago, October 15, 1905. CHAPTER I. Land of the Fair God. June 10, 1905. ONE of the handsomest trains that ever pulled out of the Tei-minal Station at St. Louis, Missouri, was the National Editorial Special, which left St. Louis, June 6, at noon, over the ''Katy Koute." The special, which con- sisted of fourteen handsome Pullmans and a liaggage car, was run in two sections, and carried seven hundred editors to the convention. The special arrived at Sedalia, Mo., at eight o'clock that night, for supper, and lireakfasted at Osage, Indian Territory, the next morning. The train arrived in (iutlu'ie, Oklahoma, at four o'clock the afternoon of June 7. after an enjoyable trip across the beau- tiful fertile plains of ^Missouri and Oklahoma. A delegation of prominent citizens met the special about thirtj- miles from Guthrie, and conducted the party to their city, the capital of the greatest territory in the country. The station platform was crowded with citizens, and two splendid bands were playing patriotic airs. Cheer after cheer, shouted lustily and heartily, greeted the visitors. Gay flags and bunting waved in the breeze. Guthrie had donned her holiday attire. Two hundred and fifty carriages and vehicles conveyed the editors and their Avives to the different hotels prepared for their enter- tainment. A brief meeting was held at the Opera House, where the guests were welcomed by the mayor and several prominent citizens. A reception given by the people of Guthrie to the editors followed in the evening. The streets were ablaze Avith light from the hundreds of red, white and blue arc lights swung in every available place. It was a Avarni summer night, &' ^ft' •y«- \V¥;i7 " ft.!- ——-'-; vi'i ■■"■■ \. ■'■ ^.- -ai '. 5-;--'.- •*'"«"»• V ^; . : . i.^w';. a; :* / ^ ?;■ ^r ;'/|- 'h- v? .' . • ^ 's>i ;;* >:i.- M ihrtfrf : I : ; ! ' ^ • : ■ ' ■ ■ o cq Masonic Temple, Guthrie, Olkaiioma State Capitol, Guthrie, Oklahoma 10 THE LAND OF PROMISE Like a scene from the "Arabian Nights" was the picture presented in the ballroom in the capitol building, which was beautifully decorated with American tiags, bunting, stately palms, beautiful cut tiowers and a profusion of cape jessamine. Beautiful women, elegantly gowned, greeted the visitors to tlieir city. The soft strains of delicious music drifted through the flower-laden air. Entertainments and receptions followed each other in rapid succession. Delightful drives to the places of general interest were indulged in. The Scottish Rite Masons gave a splendid reception in their magnificent temple, the only one of its kind in the country. The Editorial i^arty remained in Guthrie three days, every minute of which time was crowded with interest and pleasure. The next stop was at Enid, a thriving town about seventy-five miles soutliAvest of Guthrie. The citizens of Enid Avere hospi- tality itself to the visitors, and the three hours spent in Enid were passed pleasantly at a brief entertainment at the Opera House, followed by a reception given by the Elks at their club rooms. Leaving Enid the sanu^ evening, we arrived at Snyder. Oklahoma, the following morning. A terrific cyclone had destroyed Snyder but a few weeks before our passing through that country, and it was a devastated country that lay before us. Clean swept of all its buildings and residences, its fields of grain and crops utterly destroyed, barbed wire fences torn down and so interwoven with debris as to be unable to extri- cate but little portion of the clothing and mattresses, bedding and so forth securely pinned in the barbs, the little town pre- sented a most pathetic and desolate appearance. Over a hundred lives were lost in the terrific storm that swept Snydev from the face of the map for a time. But it will only be for a time, for Snyder will arise again from her ch?solation as did historical Galveston, and in that great and glorious country she will again take her place. A brief stop was made at Lawton, the metropolis of southern Oklahoma and the capital Street Scene, Lawton, Oklahoma 2 S lA^l^^ / f^: ^' > f^ r-^ • i- ■ Or-f-* 3 ..rf::;A Watching It, Grow, in Oklahoma Bo<'k IxhnnI Si/sfem 14 THE LAND OF PROMISE of Comanche county. As we were four hours late in our sched- ule and had only an hour's time at Lawton, this did not permit of our visiting Fort Sill, as had heen planned, but our train stopped for a few minutes when near the Fort and the Fourth United States cavalry was drawn up on dress parade for our inspection. Brief stops were made at Anadarko and El Eeno. We reached Chickasha late in the afternoon and were entertained at a grand barbecue, where tables were laid for 700. The meat had all been cooked barbecue style in the open air and wa? delicious. We had but an hour in Chickasha, which is in Indian Territory, and a very interesting toAvn. We were splen- didly entertained at Oklahoma City, our next stop. This city had raised $5,000 for our entertainment. Oklahoma City is a city of 35,000 inhabitants and is one of the most progressive in the territory. There is considerable rivalry between Guthrie and Oklahoma City. But the cities are mnch the same, both thrifty, splendid western cities and i)opulated by energetic, progressive people. A splendid banquet at Delmar Gardens Avas served to our party during a frightful rain storm. From Oklahoma City we returned to Guthrie, from which point the entire party were taken to Bliss, Oklahoma, on Sunday, June 11th, where the party visited Miller Brothers' ranch 101. This ranch consists of 87,000 acres of land, most of Avhich is rented from the Indians. Here a most unusual entertainment took place. At the first streak of daAvn the trains began carrying excursionists to the ranch, Avhere a Avonderful day of Indian sports and games, a barbecue of buffalo meat and a buffalo chase Avere to be given at noon. Forty thousand people con- gregated. Imagine thousands of acres of beautiful rolling country flecked here and there Avith timberlands and picturesque small streams, tAvo or three dozen spotless white tents dotting the fragrant meadowlands and hundreds upon hundreds of horses, carriages and ponies on every side. Under the largest tent of all the tables were spread for the banquet given by the 1 < be C 1 6 H LAND OF THE FAIR GOD 19 Miller Brothers to the Editors. The long tables fairly groaned with good things. Waiters passed the barbecued buffalo meat in huge washtubs. Thirty bands of music were scattered over the mammoth grounds. A grand amphitheater had been enclosed with barbed wire netting. After dinner was over the grand stand l)egan to fill. At two o'clock the sports began. A regular wild Avest show followed. A splendid procession lead by Geronimo, the great Indian chief, who has been a pris- oner at Fort Sill for fifteen years, guarded by soldiers. About 500 Indians and 300 cowboys took part in the program, Avliich was most interesting. Indian games, LaCrosse and ball, roping and throwing steers, rough riding, bucking broncos, etc. The most wonderful feat of all was performed by a colored man, who caught and thrcAV a steer by his teeth. Leaving Guthrie the next morning about three o'clock, we arrived at Cleveland, Oklahoma, in time for breakfast and were treated to a novel entertainment by the citizens of that place. We Avere taken to the Ohio and Indiana Oil Company's wells, where a new oil Avell Avas "shot." This is done by placing a quantity of nitroglycerine in the Avell and then dropping a "go-devil" ontt) it. The explosion opens up the Avell and the oil gushes out. TIoAvever, the oil Avell shot for our benefit was someAvhat of a fizzle, for the stream shot from the Avell Avas fcmall and lasted but several minutes. The oil industry is an important one in Cleveland. There are hundreds of oil Avells in that locality, but the price of oil is so Ioav that oAvners prefer w^aiting for a better market. The next stop Avas at Tulsa, Indian Territory. Tulsa over- looks the Arkansas riA^er valley, has a mild climate and pure Avater. This city of 7,200 people affords excellent schools, banks, churches, neAvspapers, and is groAving vigorously. It has fiA'e railroads. The manufacturer here finds his raAv materi- als right at hand. Ioav freight rates, best labor, fuel at equiA'a- lent of coal at 60 cents per ton, and a groAving market for his products. ^ ''it -. . * • ■ -*? r ? -i-*J^ S ^^ t. , 'ML' -" -^ f c -•' ' 'Lit, ■/ :'• i!.'»- I 4 / f^i*; <'', .'1^ 22 THE LAND OF PROMISE At Tulsa the special was met by two hundred carriages an A a*brass hand, and onr party Avas escorted to a large hall and banqueted there at noon on the 12th. A brief stop was made at ]\Iuskogee for supper. As I Avrite this letter I can look from the car window and \iew this beautiful country noAV at its l)est. I passed through Indian Territory in 1889, three days before the Territory was cpened, and the change in the space of sixteen years is cer- tainly remarkable. Where great tracts of waste, overrun Avith Indians and outlaws, who were a menace to the civilization and development of any country, were, I find a very different con- dition today. Oklahoma and Indian Territory, so long denied statehood on account of the lawlessness of the country, are now seeking the privilege of adding another star to the American flag. Here beautiful fertile hills and valleys are covered Avith fine herds of cattle. Waving fields of golden wheat glisten in the sun. The cotton plants are now four inches high. Her cities and toAvns, which have sprung up like magic, contain as tine buildings as our own at home. The women, stately and edu- cated, men rugged, splendid and ambitious, have left the crowded cities of the states and have sought a new home, a new country. They are bringing into existence a generation of healthy, ambitious young Americans which would be a credit to any state in the Union. These people are hampered to a certain extent b.y the law which gives to every Indian man, woman and child 160 acres of the best land in the Indian Nation. It makes no difference if the Indian family contains ten children, each one of thos3 children is allotted l)y the Government at AVashington 160 acres of the best land, absolutely free of any tax. The taxes are borne by their Avhite brothers, who groan beneath an unnecessary burden. It has been said that the Indian was not properly treated in years gone by. That may be true, but ample atonement is certainly being made noAV, for they are luxuriating on the fat of the land. A race so absolutely shift- en o n a ^ n \ O =r o 77' ^ CT- « o 3" o ." P5 '**, C/3 % ". ^ ,%^.4V. z; 24 THE LAND OF PROMISE less as to be unwilling to cultivate the choice farms they own. Rather than work their acres they rent to the whites, who till them and cultivate the products of the field. This land is so rich that anything and everything may be grown on it. Alfalfa grows luxuriantly in this climate. Five crops in one year is a common occurrence. One of the regrettable conditions of this ownership of valuable land by one family is that the Indians intermarry with the negroes very promiscuously. Now it matters not what other blood runs in the child's veins, if even one-sixteenth Indian blood can be i:)roven the child is entitled to its 160 acres of land. This brings into existence a deplorable condition of affairs. The Indians of the Territory are all wealthy, and the Indian maidens are eagerly sought after by white men, and innunu'ral)le marriages have been the result. But outside of these drawbacks, Oklahoma and Indian Territory are destined to be the Mecca for ambitious men and women. With their fertile lands, their great gas and oil wells. their rich mineral wealth so long hidden in the Wichita moun- tains, Oklahoma and Indian Territory offer every inducement to healthy and ambitious men wishing to earn success by work- ing for it, to go west to grow up witli this splendid country. City Hall, Guthrie, Oklahoma O D c r- O 11; v; CO £. ? C^ en ? E 5 c. 3 O r. '^■''« 313^ lif S3 Bi :i3:j PRAETORIAN BUILDING KEYSER-MOZIER CO e,s,9.orjn-rr aprmTFCTg Dallas, Texas Courtesy 150,000 Club CHAPTER II. The Lone Star State. June 12, 1905. WE are now traveling across one small section of the great state of Texas, the home of the pioneer cattle- men. The magnitnde of this wonderful state can l)e imagined when I state that we will cover 1,500 miles from Den- nison. Texas, to El Paso, and have merely skirted the horder of this immense tract of land. It is claimed here that Texas is larger than Illinois, New York and Pennsylvania put to- gether. "We have passed through the great oil and natural gas well belts. Texas produces one-third the sugar output of the world and tAventy per cent, the output of cotton. The first city in Texas that we stopped at for any length of time was Dallas. It is a splendid city of 100,000 inhabi- tants. Handsome public buildings, beautiful, spacious south- ern mansions and a fine park, add to the natural beauties of this thrifty city, Avhose boast it is that the next census will reveal a jump from 100,000 to 150,000 inhabitants. Our train was met at Dallas by the prominent business men of that city and a brass band, and our party was escorted to the Commer- cial Club, where an impromptu reception was held. An hour iater four special electric cars conveyed us to the fair grounds, where a bounteous luncheon was served. A vaudeville per- formance followed, interspersed with speeches by the mayor and several other prominent Texans. In the afternoon the ladies of the Elks Lodge gave a reception and musicale to our party in their magnificent club house. This is the finest Elks home that we have had the pleasure of visiting. We spent a day and an evening in Dallas. We arrived at Houston, Texas, the next day. The number of fine magnolia trees to be found there has caused it to be called the Magnolia City. LONE STAR STATE 31 We visited ]Ma