A 
 
 ^0 
 
 .0 %. 
 
 
 
 
 r^ -n-o^ 
 
 
 O 
 
 
 -^^n^ 
 

 
 <- o 
 
 0^ : <^' 
 
 A ^ <^ ' « 
 
 D* 5 • • , "O' 
 
 
 
 C" 
 
 
 
 ^0^ 
 
 Hq, 
 
 4 o 
 
 
 
 <J> 
 
 •' .^' 
 
 
 -t, 0° 
 
 -n^o^ 
 
 o ■0- 
 
 .-^q. 
 
A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD; 
 
 OR, 
 
 REMINISCENCES OF TRAVEL BEYOND 
 THE SEA. 
 
 BY 
 
 W. HARLAN CORD, 
 
 Author of " Waterloo," (a translation from the French of 
 M, Erckmann-Chatrian.) 
 
 ^ 
 
 " A little peaceful home 
 Bounds all my wants and wishes ; add to this 
 My book and friend, and this is happiness." 
 
 — Francesco di Rioja. 
 
 Mi-it /iO i....^. I 
 
 ST. LOUIS: 
 
 JOHN BURNS PUBLISHING CO. 
 
 717 AND 719 Olive Street. 
 
 1885. 
 
Copyrighted, 1SS5, 
 By W. HARLAN CORD. 
 
 
 
m Mmonam. 
 
 To the memory of my beloved aunt, Miss Eliza A. Dupuy, 
 the Authoress, to whose fostering care and life-long affection 
 the author is indebted far beyond all expression, and whose 
 social and domestic qualities were only equaled by the lustre 
 of her talents, this unassuming volume is affectionately 
 dedicated by her nephew — the author. 
 
 " Green grow the turf above thee. 
 Friend of my better days ! 
 None knew thee but to love thee, 
 None named thee but to praise." 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 JHE following desultory pages are the unstudied 
 and cursory record of the fruition of years of 
 desire and anticipation — "a vague unrest and a name- 
 less longing" — which has, perhaps, pervaded the 
 minds of many into whose hands they may chance to 
 fall ^ a tour of Europe. 
 
 The writer had the rare privilege of accompanying 
 the Apollo Commandery of Knights Templars of the 
 city of Chicago, on their noted pilgrimage of Europe 
 in the summer of 1883, and as no other knight of the 
 quill has essayed to chronicle that extremely pleasant 
 tour of some of the most interesting portions of the 
 Old "World, and as he has thought (perhaps with a 
 pardonable pride) that such a notable event in the 
 annals of Freemasonry should not pass into oblivion 
 altogether, this circumstance chiefly, and not alone 
 a mere vulgar cacoeihes scribendi, has induced him to 
 add — inadequately, though it may be — another to 
 the almost countless volumes of travel with which the 
 reading public are, perhaps, surfeited. 
 
 However, the Masonic feature of the work (which 
 is, by the way, mainly confined to the second and sev- 
 enth chapters), it is hoped, will recommend it to the 
 
 (5) 
 
6 , PREFACE. 
 
 kindly consideration of the Fraternity, while it is not 
 prominent enough, it is believed, to repel the general 
 reading public, as the entire volume, from beginning to 
 end, is both descriptive and historical, and the author 
 accordingly asks for the book the partial and kindly 
 consideration of the reading public in general, in the 
 hope that its perusal may not be wholly devoid of 
 interest or of profit, even to those who have visited 
 the same places so famed in song and story, and who, 
 it is hoped, may embrace this opportunity to revisit 
 them in fancy, at least, with the writer. 
 
 It is also believed that the book may be of some 
 service to those who expect some day to *' go down to 
 the sea in ships," as well as to those stay-at-homes, 
 who have neither the desire nor the time to "go 
 abroad ; " and with these prefatory remarks the book 
 is respectfully and hopefully submitted to the public 
 
 by 
 
 The Author. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Off for Europe — Parade in Chicago — Decorations of the 
 "Special" — Scenes in the Suburbs — Fun on Board — Eecep- 
 tion in New York at the Grand Union Hotel — '< Marching Down 
 Broadway" — Life on the Ocean Wave — A Sabbath at Sea — 
 Land, Ho! — Queenstown — Liverpool — Railway Traveling in 
 England — English Landscapes ...... 13-38 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Arrival at York, and Reception by the Craft — The Old Roman 
 Wall — Historical Sketch of the Ancient Capital of the North — 
 St. Mary's Abbey — St. Leonard's Hospital — York Minster — 
 York and its Relations to Freemasonry Considered — Abstract 
 of the Address on Freemasonry of Rev. Sir S. W. Young — 
 M. de Lamartine on Freemasonry — Pope Leo XIII. 's Opinion 
 of the Order — Notice from the York Herald — Abstracts of Valu- 
 able Addresses on Freemasonry of Bros. Todd, Young and Bell 
 on the Institution of Freemasonry Delivered at Various 
 Periods — The Grand Masonic Banquet at York . . . 38-62 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Visit to Cambridge — Historical Sketch of the University — 
 How it is at Present Conducted — Cambridge Under-graduates, 
 and how they Live at the University — Trinity College — Ma- 
 caulay and Sir Isaac Newton — Other Distinguished Graduates — 
 Arrival in the World's Greatest Metropolis — On a Bus for 
 Hyde Park — Sights on London Streets — Hyde Park and Rot- 
 ten Row — The Princess of Wales and the Right Hon. W. E. 
 Gladstone — " Mrs. Jarley's Wax Works " at Madam Tussauds' 
 Museum — Charles Dickens — Napoleon the Great — The Tower 
 of London — The Crown Jewels — Tower Green — The Waiter's 
 
 Gate — Tower Hill — St. Peter's Chapel 62-90 
 
 (7) 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 St. Paul's Cathedral — Naval and Military Heroes — The 
 Whispering Gallery — Up into the Ball — D own into the Crypts — 
 Lord Wellington's Puneral Car — Some Stunning Statistics — 
 Westminster Abbey — The National Walhalla, or Temple of 
 Fame — Tombs of King, Warriors, and Statesmen — The Poets' 
 Corner — Gay's Epitaph — Shakespeare's Pall-bearer — Old 
 Pan's Tomb — The Savory Theater, and Miss Eortescae, Lord 
 Garmoyle's j^awcee-— Biggest Breach of Promise Verdict on 
 Record — The "Complete Letter Writer" — The Lord Chan- 
 cellor of England 91-119 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Off for the Continent and La Vie PaHsienne — Hardships of 
 English "Drivers" and "Stokers" — Crossing the Channel — 
 American Boarding School patois and Parisian French Com- 
 pared — Tom Hood's Wholesome Advice to all Tourists who 
 do not Paries vous Francais — Captain O'Shea's Trouble with 
 the "Lingo" — Boulogne and Bonaparte's "Army of En- 
 gland" — England's Imminent Danger at that Period — First 
 Impressions of Paris — Paris by Night — A French Dejeuner — 
 Excursion to Versailles — Site of the Execution of Jacques de 
 Molay — French Gamins — "All the Glories of France" — The 
 Rooms of the Crusades — Gallery of the Empire — Gallery of 
 Battles — The Grand Fountain at Versailles — Grand Trianon — 
 Petit Trianon — The Gallery of Glass — Saint Cloud — The Arch 
 of Triumph — Eden Theater — The Madeleine — Notre Dame — 
 The Wonders of the Louvre 120-151 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 The Champs Elysees, a wonderful Cosmorama — Beautiful 
 Paris hard to Conceive as the Scene of the Reign of Terror — 
 Tlie Place de la Concorde — The Site of the Guillotine — Terri- 
 ble Catastrophe in Connection with the Celebration of the 
 Nuptials of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette — The Eight 
 
CONTENTS. y 
 
 Statues of the Place de la Concorde — The Tomb of the 
 Emperor Napoleon the Great — The Hotel des Invalides — 
 Napoleon's Old Veterans — The Column of July on the Site of 
 the Bastile — The Cemetery of Pere la Chaise — Wreaths of 
 Immortelles — Some Distinguished Dead — Marshal Ney — The 
 Pantheon — Eousseau and Voltaire — Mirabeau and Marat — 
 The Morgue — Pen Picture of the Temple — The Ancient Strong- 
 hold of the EJiights Templars of France — Some of its Dis- 
 tinguished Inmates in Modern Times 152-178 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 The Fall of Jerusalem — Its Possession by the Moslems — 
 William de Beau-Jeu Grand Master of the Templars at the Siege 
 of Acre and Death of William de Beau-Jeu — The Siege cif 
 Acre — Valiant and Almost Unparalleled Bravery of the Knights 
 of the Red Cross and Knights Templars During the Siege — The 
 Temple House of Acre — William de Beau-Jeu Killed and Suc- 
 ceeded by Gaudini — FaU of Acre, and Flight to Cyprus of the 
 handful of Surviving Christian Knights Under the Grand Master 
 Gaudini — Death of Gaudini in, 1295 and the Election of the 
 Illustrious Jacques de Molay as his Successor — Cyprus the 
 Stronghold of the Order — Character of James de Molay — 
 Alliance with Cazan Khan Emperor of Persia Against the 
 Moslems — Alliance, however, Produces no Great Results — 
 Conspiracy Against the Templars — James de Molay Betrayed 
 Into the Hands of Philip the Fair, King of France — Simul- 
 taneous Seizure of all the Strongholds of the Order in France 
 by Treachery — Cruel Imprisonment, and Torture of the Temp- 
 lars — Death at the Stake — End of James de Molay — Retribu- 
 tion — How the Order of the Templars was Preserved from 
 Extinction 178-212 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 The Vendome Column — The Grand Opera House — L'Afri' 
 caine — Goody-by to Paris — Fontainebleau — The Valley of the 
 Rhone — Arrival at Geneva — The Lake of Geneva — Geneva the 
 
10 CONTENTS. 
 
 Early Beloved of Protestantism — The Birthplace of Rousseau, 
 and the Scene of John Calvin's Labors — Calvin's House — 
 Geneva Historically Considered — Various Sights of the City — 
 Eesidence of Many Persons noted in the History of Europe — 
 Cathedral of Saint Pierre — Calvin the "Protestant Pope" — 
 Some of his Sumptuary Laws — Calvin in the r6le of a Man- 
 Milliner — Scenes on the Lake — Visit to the Castle of Chillon — 
 Sketch of the Famous Prisoner, Bonnivard — How Byron Came 
 to Write the Poem — Lausanne, where Gibbon Finished the ^ 
 " Decline and Fall of the Eoman Empire" . . . .212-246 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Freigberg — Bernie — The Lake of Thun — Interlaken, the 
 Saratoga of Switzerland — The Jungfrau — Swiss Carvings — 
 The Casino — Le GhevalUer — Visit to the Mer de Glace at Grin- 
 den wald — Scenes Along the Valley of the Lutschine — The 
 Yodlyn — The Banz des Vaohes — Climbing the Glacier — Senator 
 Sawyer Affects a Sedan Chair — The Awful Silence of the 
 Alpine Peaks — The Avalanche — The Dangers of the Grinden- 
 wald Glacier — A Sabbath in Switzerland — Reunion of the Pil- 
 grims — The Lake of Brienz — The Geissbach Falls —A Beautiful 
 Valley — The Brunig Pass — Lake Lungern — The Sarner See — 
 Bonaparte's Timber Glide . 247-272 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 The Lake of Lucerne — View of the City of Lucerne from the 
 Lake — Rigi-Kulm and Mount Pilatus — The Scene of Tell's 
 Famous Exploits — The Lion of Lucerne — The Hofkirche of 
 Lucerne — Sketch of the Organization of the Swiss Confedera- 
 tion—The Death of the Gessler — Visit to Tell's Chapel— The 
 Spot where Gessler was Shot — Was Tell only a Myth — The 
 Tomb of Erasmus of Rotterdam at Bale, with some Remarks on 
 Luther and Erasmus — Strasbourg and its Great Cathedral with 
 its Wonderful Clock — Its Marvelous Fortifications, and its 
 Strength as a Strategic Point — Gutenburg, the Inventor of 
 Printing 273-304 
 
CONTENTS. 11 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Heidelberg — Historical Sketch of the Palatinate — The 
 Castle — Michael Angelo's /a^acZe — View from the Parapet — 
 The Valley of the Neckar — The Big Tun — The Blown-up 
 Tower — The University — Worms, Immortalized by Martin 
 Luther — Parallel Between Luther and Erasmus in Eegard to 
 the Part Each Played in Forwarding the Reformation — Die 
 Wa kht am Bhein — Mayence — The Bridge of Boats — Bingen 
 on the Rhine — The Legend of Bishop Hattloand the Mouse- 
 Tower — The Legend of the two Brothers, and the Beautiful 
 Hildegarde — Legend of the Sirens — The Fortress of Ehren- 
 breitstein — Rhine Scenery — Byron's Beautiful Farewell to the 
 Rhine 304-345 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Cologne, and its Wondrous Cathedral — Matchless View from 
 the Graceful Spire — German Soldiers as Compared with the 
 Followers of the Marseillaise — The Church of Saint Ursula, and * 
 the Legend of the Eleven Thousand Virgins — Panorama of the 
 Battle of Gravelotte — Aix-la-Chapelle, and the Tomb of Charle- 
 magne, the Great Emperor of the West, who was the Model 
 Exemplar of Napoleon the Great — Brussels — Picture Galleries — 
 Church of St. Gudolf — Brussels Lace — The Wiertz Museum — 
 The Hotel de Ville — The Mannikin — The Duchess of Rich- 
 mond's Ball — Visit to Waterloo — Sketch of the Battle — The 
 Duke of Wellington's Unfavorable Opinion of Napoleon, Whom 
 he Called "Jonathan Wild the Great " — One of the Napoleon's 
 Veterans Contra — Wellington Likened to Brutus, and Bonaparte 
 to Cassius, in Shakespeare's Julius Csesar .... 345-387 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 The City of Antwerp — Cathedral Spire — Rubens' Master- 
 piece — The Descent from the Cross — The Ascent of the Cross — 
 Quenten Matsys — The Blacksmith Painter — Rubens — Van 
 Dyke — Picture Galleries — Birthday of Henri Flamande, the 
 Flemish Poet — Panorama of Waterloo — Back Across the 
 
12 CONTENTS. 
 
 North Sea to London — The " Lingo " Intelligible once More — 
 The British Museum — Visit to Hampton Court — Trip to 
 Windsor Castle 387-426 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 John Bunyan's Tomb — John Wesley's House —The House of 
 Commons— G. Otto Trevelyan — Lord Macaulay's Nephew 
 Under Secretary for Ireland — Chas. Parnell, the Irish Agitator 
 and Leader in the House of Commons — Sir William McArthur, 
 Ex-Lord Mayor of London — Sir Henry Brand, Speaker of the 
 House of Commons — The London Newspapers — The Tower 
 and the Abbey Once More — A Ride on the Thames — The 
 Underground Railway— The South Kensington Museum— 
 John Soone's Museum— "Down to Scotland "—Edinboro — 
 View from Arthur's Seat — Edinboro termed the "Modem 
 Athens" — Reflections on Mary Queen of Scots — Edinboro 
 Castle 427-458 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Historic Streets— The House where Robert Burns was made 
 a Mason and Poet Laureate of the Lodge — Holyrood Palace — 
 John Knox's House — Jeanie Deans — Sir Walter Scott's House 
 and Monument — Monument to Prince Albert — Monument to 
 the Duke of Wellington 458-496 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 The National Gallery — Some Notable Pictures — Extract 
 from the Address of Prince Albert on the Fine Arts — Off for 
 the Scenes made Famous by the Wizard of the North — Loch 
 Katrine, and the Lady of the Lake — Loch Lamond — Tobias Smol- 
 lett's Landed Estate, and Sketch of his Life — Pumbarton 
 Castle, and the Sword of Sir William Wallace — Glasgow — The 
 Necropolis — John Knox's Monument — The Cockburn Hotel — 
 The Jersey Lily — Mrs. Langtry As Rosalind in "As You Like 
 It " at the Princess Theater — Homeward Bound . .496-549 
 
A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 FKOM CHICAGO TO NEW YOEK. 
 
 ^N Thursday, July 12th, 1883, in compliance with 
 arrangements previously made by Eminent Com- 
 mander Norman T. Gassette, of Apollo Commandery, 
 No. 1. Knights Templar, of Chicago, with Sir E. M. 
 Jenkins, of New York, a goodly number of Apollo, 
 with those intending Pilgrims, so courteously invited to 
 " participate," from other cities and States, *' quorum 
 parsparvafui,^^ the writer of this " abstract and brief 
 chronicle " of one of the most noted Masonic Pilgrim- 
 ages in the annals of American Freemasonry, met at 
 the elegant and spacious headquarters of Apollo Com- 
 mandery, which has a membership of over 700, 
 making her the largest commandery in the world, 
 preparatory to "forming lines" to march to the 
 Michigan Central Depot, on our way to New York, 
 and thence to Europe. 
 
 (13), 
 
14 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 The procession was made up of probably 150 Sir 
 Knights, preceded by the Oriental Consistory, of 
 Chicago, to the number of about 50, and a fine band 
 of music, and paraded through several of the principal 
 streets of the city. There was a large crowd at the 
 depot to see the departure of the pilgrims, and the 
 train, which was a " special," pulled out amidst vast 
 enthusiasm. 
 
 The engine was handsomely decorated, having in 
 front the coat of arms of Apollo, and was decked out 
 all over with the Maltese cross, banners in the greatest 
 profusion, and the inscription on either side of the 
 locomotive, *' Apollo Commandery of Chicago." 
 The train was composed of six elegant Wagner sleep- 
 ers, two baggage cars, and a smoker, and the coaches 
 were all comfortably filled. Throughout the ten or 
 fifteen miles from the depot along the lake shore, and 
 through the suburbs of the city, the passage of the 
 Templar train evoked the most intense enthusiasm from 
 hundreds of people who had gathered along the route 
 to see the <' Templars pass,'^ and there was tremendous 
 cheering, waving of handkerchiefs, Maltese banners, 
 etc. 
 
 The conductor of the train, all the way to New York, 
 was a Templar, and at Saint Thomas, Canada, where 
 we took breakfast, our engine was changed for the 
 second time, and we were put in charge of a Templar 
 engineer and a Templar conductor, they being members 
 of*' Saint Thomas Preceptory," as the commanderies 
 of Canada are called. Our friend, the engineer, and 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO NEW YORK. 15 
 
 the division master, also a Templar, had evidently 
 spread themselves in the decoration of the engine and 
 tender, as they were decked out as handsomely as the 
 engine which pulled us out of Chicago. 
 
 The tender had an inscription on either side, con- 
 sisting of the following words, " The Michigan Central 
 and Canada Southern Railroad, wishes you a pleasant 
 voyage and a safe return," and in the center of the 
 tender on either side was a large horse shoe inclosing 
 a Maltese cross. Our party felt so highly flattered by 
 the pains taken by our friends, that we almost involun- 
 tarily gave three cheers for the beautiful engine, and 
 the Masonic brethren who had so kindly decorated it. 
 
 The manager of our excursion. Sir E. M. Jenkins 
 (who, we regret to say, has since died), arrived in 
 Chicago on July 10th, in order to personally conduct 
 our party to New York, and had, as he thought, ar- 
 ranged to issue our tickets, etc., at 101 Clark Street, 
 where he had formerly had an office ; but when the peo- 
 ple of that office (the Erie Railroad) found out that our 
 party had tickets over a rival road, they were so dis- 
 courteous to him that he found himself compelled to 
 remove to the business place of E. C. Norman T. 
 Cassette, who had special command of the party on 
 the entire trip, and right well did he discharge his trust. 
 Here, of course all was bustle and confusion, there 
 being quite an influx of tourists to see Sir Jenkins ; 
 some to pay the balance due on their tour, some to 
 exchange American money for British gold, some to 
 
16 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 obtain letters of credit, to get their tickets for the trip, 
 etc. 
 
 Excepting our steamer tickets, the remainder of the 
 coupons for the tour were bound in an elegant little 
 morocco book, having the Maltese cross on one side 
 and on the other the words : — 
 
 Apollo Commandery, 
 Chicago. 
 
 Pilgrimage to Europe. 
 1883. 
 
 We will now say something more about our train : — 
 
 Four of the sleepers had each a placard which read 
 altogether as follows: "Pilgrimage of Apollo Com- 
 mandery,No. 1,K. T., Chicago to Europe, iJza Canada 
 Southern, New York Central and Hudson River Rail- 
 road, and steamship City of Rome." 
 
 The next morning after we left Chicago, I noticed 
 one of the placards was missing, having been taken 
 oif, I suppose by some mischievous urchin, at some 
 station through which we had passed during the night. 
 
 Everybody on board of the train was in the best of 
 humor, despite the dangers of the " vasty deep " which 
 we were so soon to encounter, many of us for the first 
 time, and the fun grew fast and furious, and in the 
 coach occupied by about thirty of the Apollo Com- 
 mandery, who were known as the "escort," as they 
 were to go with us only as far as New York, there was 
 an especially good time to be had. Everybody seemed 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO NEW YORK. 17 
 
 to be possessed of the chief requisite for a successful 
 traveler — imperturbable good humor — and an inten- 
 tion to make the best of everything, and all were jolly 
 and sociable to the utmost. 
 
 The pleasure of the trip was considerably enhanced 
 by the " Big Four " of Apollo, who were among the 
 " escort " and who sang exquisitely. Soonafterleaving 
 Chicago, "The Big Four," along with the " boys," 
 went through the train, and gave the occupants of 
 each coach a rousing song, and then they would 
 sing on the platform at all the prominent stations, and 
 always elicited immense applause, especially at Syra- 
 cuse. We stopped at this point for supper, and they 
 sang, among others, their famous "cat song," which 
 provoked immense enthusiasm. A very comical thing 
 happened in the escort coach, and it was this: Several 
 Knights had seized on an unsuspecting frater, tied one 
 of the sheets of the sleeper around his neck, and then 
 proceeded to lather and shave the struggling Knight, 
 nolens volens; and what do you think the barbarous 
 fellows used in lieu of razors? Well, they actually 
 used a hand saw and an ax, and they rubbed them 
 over his face so roughly, that we were all afraid that 
 the motion of the train might cause them to injure 
 him seriously. However, he escaped apparently all 
 right, and we afterwards saw the victim throw a glass 
 of ice water down the neck of the chief inquisitor, we 
 supposed, as the only means he had of getting even. 
 Nothing more of special interest transpired until we 
 reached Albany, where, although at the unseemly hour 
 
 2 
 
18 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 of 1:30 a. m., Sir John H. Quinby, E.C ., Temple 
 Commandery No. 2, with a party of Sir Knights, met 
 the train, and showed the boys around a little, *' set 
 'em up," shot off fire-works, etc., and had a good time 
 generally. Our train arrived at the Grand Central 
 Depot in New York City, at 7 o'clock a. m. on Satur- 
 day, July 14th, and our party were met and heartily 
 welcomed by a large deputation of Sir Knights, headed 
 by Eminent Commander Empson, of Palestine Com- 
 mandery No. 18, of New York, and by them we were 
 conducted to the Grand Union Hotel, adjacent to the 
 depot, where Eminent Commander Empson greeted us 
 most cordially in a neat speech, wishing us Godspeed 
 on our pilgrimage, which was most happily responded 
 to by Eminent Commander Norman T. Gassette, of 
 Apollo, after which, we pledged each other's health in 
 sparkling champagne at the expense of Palestine No. 
 18. Then, our party partook of a sumptuous break- 
 fast, and the next thing in order was to make our ar- 
 rangements for the grand parade to the steamer City 
 of Eome. At about 10 a. m. we formed lines, having as 
 our escort a large delegation from Palestine No. 18, 
 which is to New York City Freemasonry what the aris- 
 tocratic and high-toned Seventh Eegiment is to New 
 York society. The escort numbered probably 150 Sir 
 Knights, all fine looking, almost without exception, in 
 full Templar regalia, and wearing white duck pants like 
 the West Point Cadets, who were preceded by a fine band 
 of music and a large drum corps. The ladies of our 
 party, who were quite numerous and accomplished, 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO NEW YORK. 19 
 
 had already been sent down to our steamer, and the 
 line' of march, which had been prepared for us by 
 Palestine No. 18, covered a distance of perhaps three 
 or four miles, including portions of Fifth Avenue, 
 Broadway, and other leading thoroughfares of New 
 York, and occupied not less than an hour and a half; 
 and as it was a very hot July morning, we were com- 
 pelled to rest once or twice during our route^ as the 
 hot rays of the sun poured down upon our devoted 
 heads. However, although the march was rather long, 
 yet the novelty of parading through the crowded 
 streets of New York, to embark on an Atlantic steamer 
 for a pilgrimage of Europe, many of us for the first 
 time, made us forget our weariness. /) U/A V) QX EdS't 
 
 When we arrived at the pier, and got our first 
 glimpse of the colossal steamer. City of Rome, which . i 
 was to be our ark of refuge on the wild waste of ^"^ 
 waters for the next eight or nine days probably, I was^V\CV| 
 at once impressed by her unusual proportions, and in- 
 stead of a feeling of uneasiness and repugnance at 
 going on board of her, on the contrary, I was all im- 
 patience to see what an ocean steamer was like ; for, 
 although previous to that time, I had often seen them 
 lying at the piers of the great metropolis, I had never, 
 until that hour, trodden the deck of one. No doubt 
 the exhilarating music of our superb band which, when 
 our pilgrims marched on board two abreast, was play- . 
 ing the liveliest and gayest melodies, had something to ^ 
 do with my feelings on that occasion ; and then the 
 bustle and haste of preparation for departure, the con- 
 
20 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 staiit ringing of the steamer's bell, the quick hurrying 
 to and fro of friends bidding each other tender and 
 affectionate farewells, some of them, perhaps, for ever, 
 and the entire novelty of the surroundings, presented to 
 the ' ' raw tourist ' ' a scene something like the constant 
 shifting of a kaleidoscope. Although I saw a number 
 of people shedding tears at parting with their friends, 
 I knew neither chick nor child upon the pier to tell me 
 a sad good-bye, and thus I escaped an ordeal which 
 might, perchance, have turned my thoughts into a chan- 
 nel equally sad. When the gallant ship swung around 
 in the North River, and straightened herself out for 
 another wrestle with Father Neptune, there was a per- 
 fect crush of humanity upon the pier, waving their 
 hats and handkerchiefs, and shouting their last fare- 
 wells. Some of that vast crowd, no doubt, parted 
 with some of us on board with tender and tearful 
 anxiety, but the greater portion were, doubtless, drawn 
 thither by idle curiosity, in order to see the " valiant 
 and magnanimous Templars," whose departure had 
 been heralded for several days previous by the leading 
 papers of New York. 
 
 When the great propeller began to revolve, and I 
 could see that our steamer had really started on her 
 journey across the vast expanse of waters, my sensa- 
 tions were rather pleasurable than otherwise, but I 
 was nevertheless reminded of an incident that I had 
 somewhere read in regard to the celebrated explorer of 
 Africa, Dr. Livingstone. After several years spent in 
 the interior of Africa, and making the most impor- 
 
ON THE DEEP. 21 
 
 tant discoveries, Livingstone arrived at an African coast 
 town for the purpose of embarking for England, and 
 giving to the world the fruits of his superhuman re- 
 searches, made under circumstances most remarkable, 
 and amidst dangers most appalling. He brought with 
 him a faithful native, who had been to him " another 
 Friday," and who had followed his perilous fortunes 
 for several years past, and whom he had finally per- 
 suaded after much entreaty, to go on board the ship 
 to sail with him for England ; the poor black man, 
 however, was ill at ease, and his terror was so great at 
 the unusual spectacle, that, when the smoke began to 
 pour out of the steamer's funnel, and the great wheels 
 to revolve, the whole affair was too much for him, and 
 with a shriek, he sprang over the steamer's side, and 
 was seen no more. I did not feel like that, but what 
 my further sensations were I leave for my reader to 
 experience for himself, when he, too, for the first time 
 in his life, becomes an ocean voyager. 
 
 I must not forget to add that our escort from Chi- 
 cago, of whom I have spoken above, and the Palestine 
 Commandery, of New York, had chartered a steamer, 
 the John C. Moore, and accompanied us down through 
 the Narrows, and here we waved each other adieu, 
 amid the shrieking of both steamers' whistles, the 
 waving of handkerchiefs, the hurrahs time and again 
 repeated, and one of the Chicago Templars, in his en- 
 thusiasm, took off his uniform coat and waved it fran- 
 tically aloft in the air as a Godspeed to us. 
 
 As we sailed majestically down the North River, 
 
22 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 and passed its junction with the East River, I obtained 
 my first glimpse of the grand new bridge which now 
 spans that crowded stream, as the connecting link 
 between the two great cities of New York and Brool?:- 
 lyn ; and as it hung there, suspended in mid air, like 
 a colossal spider-web seen in the distance, with its 
 multifold meshes of wire, I said to myself, " this is 
 indeed a glorious monument of engineering skilL" At 
 this point, perhaps, a few statistics concerning our 
 steamer, the City of Rome, which is the largest vessel 
 in the world engaged in the ocean traffic, and which is 
 second only in size to the famous Great Eastern, may 
 be of interest to those who have never made an ocean 
 voyage. The May Flower, which brought the Pilgrim 
 Fathers to America, was of but one hundred and 
 eighty tons burden, while this leviathan of the sea is 
 of the monster to nage of 8,800 tons, or more than forty 
 times the burden of May Flower. Such is the march 
 of progress, since the days of our ancestors on this 
 noble continent. The City of Rome carries a crew of 
 276 officers and men, burns 275 tons of coal per day, 
 and carries usually out of port 2,800 tons of coal. 
 Her propellor is 24 feet in diameter, makes 60 revolu- 
 tions per minute; her engines are equal to 15,000 
 horse power; she has three engines, and three mon- 
 ster funnels or smoke stacks. Her veteran commander. 
 Captain Monroe, has seen forty years of service, and 
 has been a Captain since he was twenty-four, and in all 
 that time has had but one shipwreck, which, he told 
 me, occurred off the coast of Ireland in 1868, and in 
 
ON THE DEEP. 23 
 
 which seventy persons out of about one hundred and 
 forty were lost, and he himself was at sea thirteen 
 days in an open boat before help came. In compli- 
 ment to the Pilgrims of Apollo, the printed lists of the 
 steamer's passengers had on the back a Templar of the 
 Middle Ages, mounted and equipped for the battle with 
 the Saracen. 
 
 As to the amusements on shipboard, they are more 
 varied than one may imagine. For the first few days, 
 the merely being on board the steamer on your way to 
 see the glories and antiquities of a foreign land, fur- 
 nishes the traveler sufficient food for thought if he 
 does not happen to be sea sick, and, of course, most of 
 them are more or less affected that way ; but after the 
 first two or three days, as a rule, all that is past and 
 gone; you have become pretty well accustomed to the 
 motion of the ship, and the constant throb of its pon- 
 derous machinery, and then you promenade the capa- 
 cious decks with an enjoyment and exhilaration to be 
 felt in no other place in the world. Of course, this 
 can be done only in nice weather, but then you can use 
 your telescope or opera glass in sighting vessels near 
 the horizon, you can peer over the steamer's side, as 
 she plows gallantly through the waves, and look for 
 jelly fish or Mother Carey's chickens, now and then 
 see a shoal of porpoises diving gracefully through the 
 water, and occasionally, see a whale, the monarch of the 
 deep. 
 
 On our third day out from New York, while we were 
 crossing the grand banks of Newfoundland, we saw sev- 
 
24 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 eral whales gaily disporting themselves near the stern of 
 the ship, and, at intervals, we could see them sporting 
 in the distance. You are not so lonely as you may 
 imagine on the vast deep, but no where else in the 
 world, with but a plank between you and eternity, 
 does one feel so utterly his own insignificance, and 
 feel so overwhelmingly that he is but a mere atom, as 
 it were, in the universe of God, and that he doth truly 
 hold man in the hollow of his hand. You are, how- 
 ever, greatly comforted by the sight, every now and 
 then, of the smoke of some distant steamer, whose hull 
 is hid below the horizon, or of some glittering sail for 
 which you might steer your course in time of need ; and 
 especially, while crossing the Banks, we saw scores upon 
 scores of fishing smacks engaged in fishing for cod, 
 and occasionally we passed by them within easy hailing 
 distance. One day, while we were seated at dinner, in 
 the grand saloon of the steamer, we saw through the 
 port holes a large ship pass very near us, and as seen 
 through the port holes of the cabin, it looked very 
 much like a stereoscopic view. The prettiest sight, 
 however, of the whole voyage, I think, was the beauti- 
 ful sunset of the first night, when we were fairly out 
 of sight of land, and fast leaving behind us the beloved 
 shores of our native America. Just before the sun 
 sank beneath the horizon, and while his last rays were 
 shooting across the waters in a perfect blaze of glory , 
 a sailing vessel astern of us passed across his flaming 
 disc, and almost eclipsed him for a moment, and it was 
 a scene that I shall remember as lono; as life shall last. 
 
ON THE DEEP. 25 
 
 As I caught the last flash of the monarch of day as he 
 sank, full-orbed beneath the western waters, I thought 
 of Childe Harold's beautiful and pathetic lament, under 
 circumstances some what similar : — 
 
 "Adieu, adieu, my native shore 
 Fades o'er the waters blue; 
 The night winds sigh, 
 The breakers roar, 
 And shrieks the wild sea new ; 
 Yon sun that sinks beneath the sea, 
 We follow in his flight, 
 A short farewell to him and thee, 
 My native land, good night." 
 
 After the first day out, the weather became very 
 foggy and disagreeable, and continued so during almost 
 the entire trip, and especially for the first three or four 
 days while passing the "Banks," and a part of the 
 time, the deep and sonorous fog whistle was blown at 
 frequent intervals, both day and night ; and when five 
 days out, the steamer's log showed only 1,900 miles, 
 and the weather was so raw and disagreeable that 
 every one who promenaded the decks, or ventured to 
 occupy his steamer chair, found it necessary to don 
 his heaviest wrappings, or use his warmest lap rugs. 
 While the fog whistle was being blown so frequently, 
 I then realized our danger from collision, either with 
 an iceberg, which sometimes happens in these Northern 
 regions, or perhaps with some other steamer, or sailing 
 vessel, but I consoled myself with the thought that if 
 such a thing should occur, by reason of the immense 
 size of our vessel, all built of steel, with water-tight 
 
26 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 compartments, we would, perhaps, not be so likely to go 
 to Davy Jones' locker, as the ill-fated vessel with 
 which we might collide ; and while in this train of 
 thought, I was forcibly reminded of an incident related 
 by Washington Irving, which was told him, by an old 
 sea captain with whom he was making a voyage. 
 Irving says that this sea captain told him a harrowing 
 tale about once having run down a fishing smack in a 
 fog off the " Banks," and of his having heard the 
 shrieks of the poor drowning wretches as they were 
 ushered into eternity without a moment's warning, 
 while his ship plowed through the sinking vessel, and 
 I wondered if we, too, were destined either to inflict or 
 meet with such a woful mishap. While I was in this 
 frame of mind, an oar went floating by the ship all in- 
 crusted with barnacles, showing that it had been in the 
 water for sometime, and I wondered if that, too, if it 
 could but talk, could not perhaps relate some sad 
 story of shipwreck and privation. After eight bells 
 (twelve o'clock m. ) every day, the " log " of the day's 
 run for the preceding twenty-four hours is made out, 
 and transcribed on a chart, which is inclosed in a frame, 
 and hung at the head of the cabin stairway, and there- 
 upon, a great rush is made by the passengers to find 
 out our latitude or longitude, and how much nearer our 
 journey's end we are, than we were, at the same time 
 the day before. 
 
 Bets are frequently made by the passengers on the 
 day's run, and it is amusing to see the eagerness of 
 those who have money up, to find out how near they 
 
ON THE DEEP. 27 
 
 are in their estimates, and, consequently, whether they 
 have won or lost. Our steamer did not make her usual 
 time owing to the fog alluded to above, but we will 
 give here, her run for the first five days, in order to give 
 those who have no idea of how many miles or knots an 
 ocean steamer can make per day, some conception of 
 their speed. 
 To 8 bells, noon, July 15th ..... 332 miles. 
 
 To 8 bells, noon, July 16th 385 miles. 
 
 To 8 bells, noon, July 17th 395 miles. 
 
 To 8 bells, noon, July 18th , . . . . 374 miles. 
 To 8 bells, noon, July 19th 380 miles. 
 
 Total in five days 1,866 miles. 
 
 On Sunday, July 18th, the pilgrims in full regalia 
 to the number of more than fifty, attended divine ser- 
 vice in the grand saloon of the steamer, and never shall 
 I forget the solemn feelings which attended my listen- 
 ing to the word of Grod under such unusual and 
 peculiar circumstances. Our ship, mighty and strongly 
 built as it was, according to all the skill and ingenuity 
 of man, was as a speck on the face of the mighty 
 waters, which was liable to be blotted out at any mo- 
 ment by the Omnipotent hand of God. The beautiful 
 service of the Episcopal Church was read by Sir, the 
 Rev. Dr. Haff, of Oshkosh, Wisconsin, and an eloquent 
 and forcible sermon was preached by Sir Dr. Greo. C. 
 Lorimer, a noted Baptist divine, of Chicago. He also 
 preached to the steerage passengers in the evening. 
 On Thursday evening, a concert was given by talent 
 
28 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 selected from our party, for the benefit of the children 
 of sailors in the Liverpool Orphan Institution, which 
 netted about $100. By the way, I must not here omit 
 to tell a little joke on the Reverend Dr. Lorimer, who 
 is by birth a " Canny Scot," but who has lived in this 
 country for a score of years, and who also married at 
 Harrodsburg, in the writer's native State. * * * A 
 party of us were sitting in the purser's cosy oflSce one 
 evening, listening to the doctor quoting Burns, as only 
 an educated Scotchman can, when he commenced tell- 
 ing us about a reverend friend of his in Perth, Scot- 
 land, his own birthplace, and he said that he had often 
 had a good time there with his friends cracking jokes, 
 telling Scotch yarns. — " Yes," spoke up, in his dry, 
 droll way, the purser, Mr. McKay (himself also a 
 Scot), " and takin' a little Scotch whisky, too." We 
 all smiled, — the doctor included. Among oiir most 
 distinguished Templars, was the Honorable Philetus 
 Sawyer of Wisconsin , now United States Senator from 
 that State. Senator Sawyer, notwithstanding his high 
 position and immense wealth, which is estimated at 
 $4,000,000, mainly amassed in the lumber business in 
 that State, is one of the most genial and sociable of 
 men, and gave me some interesting particulars of his 
 life, which I will briefly recount here. He told me 
 that he was born in Vermont in 1816, and when he was 
 seventeen years of age he bought his time of his 
 father for $100, which he had borrowed of his brother. 
 He came West in 1847, when he was thirty-one years 
 old, and he has since been Mayor of Oshkosh, a mem- 
 
ON THE DEEP. 29 
 
 ber of the Wisconsin Legislature, five times in Con- 
 gress, and now in the United States Senate, and any 
 poor and humble boy in the land may take courage 
 for the battle of life from the distinguished Senator's 
 career. We also had with our party Ex-Governor 
 Beveridge, of Illinois, who became Governor when 
 General Oglesby was elected to the United States 
 Senate, but, he was not the only *' beverage " on board 
 by a good deal, for a great many of the passengers 
 seemed to favor a new version of Coleridge's "Ancient 
 Mariner," as instead of "Water, water everywhere, 
 nor any drop to drink," they seemed to prefer the 
 rendering thus: "Water, water everywhere, 7ior«riy 
 drop we drink. ^^ 
 
 On Friday afternoon, July 20th, just before sunset, 
 the sun was very clear and bright, and a beautiful rain- 
 bow formed directly over the bow of the ship, and 
 it seemed auspicious to us of the happy end of our 
 voyage — it seemed as though the arc of promise had 
 appeared in the heavens, especially for us, and I heard 
 a gentleman who had crossed the sea several times say 
 it was the grandest sight he had ever beheld on the 
 ocean. On the next afternoon, the coast of Ireland 
 was sighted, and at about 1 a. m. on Sunday morning 
 we anchored off Queenstown, and sent up rockets for 
 the tug to come out to us, and take off the passengers 
 and baggage for Ireland ; and as some of our party 
 were to leave us here, I staid up to see them off, and 
 I felt well repaid, as I got a fine view of the harbor 
 of Cork, which -is noted for its beauty, just at 
 
30 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 daylight, as our steamer was proceeding on her way 
 to Liverpool. 
 
 As we steamed out of the harbor, we met a large 
 steamer which was also making signals for a tug, and as 
 we passed by each other, I thought of the people on 
 her, homeward bound, who had already seen the strange 
 and wonderful things which were, as yet, in store for 
 us. That day about 2 p. m., we anchored at the 
 mouth of the Mersey, in order to wait for the tide, as 
 our steamer was drawing too much water to get over the 
 bar. That night at about 11 o'clock we weighed 
 anchor, and by 1 a. m. the lights of Liverpool were 
 in full view from the forecastle, and our voyage was 
 all but ended. Of course, everybody on board the ship 
 was up betimes that morning, and anxious to go 
 ashore, but as it rains about two-thirds of the time in 
 England, we could not get along without a rain to 
 begin with, and everybody was abusing *« the blasted 
 country; " but by the time we had disposed of our 
 breakfast, and gotten our baggage ready to go ashore, 
 the clouds had dispersed somewhat, and the rain had 
 ceased, to our intense gratification. We went on 
 board of the tug, and leaving our quondam home 
 behind us, we went up the river past the huge docks 
 for some distance, and finally landed on British soil. 
 I expected to stagger and reel like a drunken man, 
 from what I had been told and read, but much to my 
 surprise, as soon as I landed on terra firma, I could walk 
 as comfortably and as easily as I ever could, and thus 
 one more error regarding sea-life was dispelled for- 
 
ARRIVAL AT LIVERPOOL. 31 
 
 ever. The next thing in order was the examination of 
 our baggage, which we had all looked forward to as 
 the greatest bugbear of our tour, but this was gotten 
 through with most expeditiously and courteously, con- 
 sidering our number (our Masonic party, then num- 
 bering probably one hundred persons,) and the amount 
 of our baggage, and I heard no complaint upon the 
 part of any one about discourtesy by the British offi- 
 cinls. About the only things interdicted in that coun- 
 try of free trade are cigars and fire-ajms, and I pre- 
 sume that very few of our party had any fire-arms, 
 and still fewer cigars when they landed, so I take it 
 for granted that there was very little trouble on that 
 score. We found carriages in waiting at the top of 
 the landing stage, all designated by a Maltese cross, 
 and we were rapidly driven to our hotel, where we 
 were to dine previous to our departure for York, " the 
 home of ancient Yorke " Masonry, and at which place, 
 we were to be entertained, on the evening of the next 
 day by the ancient Ebor Preceptory of that city. 
 There is not much of note to be seen in Liverpool, and 
 I shall only speak of a few things we saw during the 
 few hours we remained there. The most notable thing 
 in Liverpool is its immense shipping interests, it being 
 the commercial entrepot of Great Britain, and its enor- 
 mous docks, which extend along the river Mersey for 
 six miles, and which enclose nearly 300 acres, and 
 at Birkenhead, opposite the city of Liverpool, nearly 
 200 acres more, thus giving Liverpool the facilities for 
 handling by far the largest commerce of any seaport 
 
32 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 in the world. Each dock has its own name, and 
 among the most prominent I noticed " Waterloo," a 
 name especially dear to every English heart. Right 
 opposite the hotel where we dined, is situated St. 
 George's Hall, which is quite a handsome structure of 
 considerable size, the eastern front being over 400 
 feet long, and supported by numerous Corinthian col- 
 umns nearly fifty feet in height ; in front of this hall, 
 are to be seen the famous " Liverpool lions," four in 
 number, of colossal size, and sculptured from stone, 
 and, also, the handsome equestrian statues of Prince 
 Albert and Queen Victoria. Near this square, are to 
 be seen the monument of Lord Wellington, inscribed 
 with the names of his various victories in Spain and 
 elsewhere, and the free museum which contains, prob- 
 ably, the finest collection of ornithological specimens 
 in the world, and shows to its fullest extent the skill of 
 the taxidermist. 
 
 There are, also, the Walker Gallery, which contains 
 some very handsome paintings and statuary, and the 
 Brown, and the Picton Libraries, which, between them, 
 contain nearly 50,000 volumes. While I was saunter- 
 ing leisurely through the Walker Gallery, my eye fell 
 upon what I soon found to be a miniature cast of 
 Windsor Castle, the most elegant of all the residences 
 of British royalty, and while I was looking at it with 
 very considerable interest, a workman who had been 
 busily engaged near me, stepped up to me, and asked 
 me what that was. I looked at him with some amaze- 
 ment, thinking at first that he was trying to " chaff 
 
ENGLISH BAILROADS. 33 
 
 me," but finally, taking him to be in earnest, I said to 
 him, " Why, this is where your Queen lives." 
 
 He then said to me that, he had never been nearer 
 than fifty miles from London, and did not know about 
 Windsor Castle. Then I thought to myself, if that 
 was a fair sample of the intelligence of the English 
 working classes, that England's boastful claims about 
 the superiority of her institutions, and, in fact of all 
 things English, over her youthful offspring, and her 
 greatest rival, America, was all the veriest " rot and 
 Buncombe." It was here, that I first saw the two-story 
 street railroad bars, or " tram cars ", as they call them, 
 and it seemed strange to see women and men, indis- 
 criminately, climbing up to the top of the cars, by 
 means of a winding stairway, and it reminded me some- 
 what of New York, about seventeen years ago, in the 
 days of the elevated bridge over Broadway, at the cor- 
 ner of Fulton Street, and which so darkened the busi- 
 ness house of "Knox, the hatter," that he recovered 
 damages from the city, and the bridge was soon taken 
 down. That afternoon, most of us had our first expe- 
 rience with English railway " carriages," as they call 
 them, when we left in a special train for York, 
 about 2p.m. 
 
 These boasted carriages are much shorter than an 
 American railway coach, and hold about half as many 
 people, thirty being about as many as they generally 
 carry. They are divided into compartments, which 
 hold from six to eight persons, who get in at a door 
 at the side of the carriage, and half of the party must, 
 3 
 
34 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 of Decessity, ride backwards, as the two seats face each 
 other, and so only half of the occupants of each car- 
 riage can sit by a window, so as to enjoy the scenery, 
 while the remainder of the party must see as best they 
 can, unless their friends by the window, occasionally, 
 allow them their seats in order that they may thus ob- 
 tain a flying glance at the surrounding scenery. There 
 can, of course, be no retiring apartments, with scarcely 
 an exception, in carriages of this description, and 
 there is, besides, danger that you may find yourself, 
 perchance, locked up in one of these compartments 
 with a madman, a robber, or a ruffian, and more than 
 once, in the last few years, has life been lost, or horri- 
 ble violence perpetrated in these compartments, which 
 are so difierent from our American style of traveling, 
 where all are thrown together in one common apart- 
 ment, and where a lady may travel, entirely unaccom- 
 panied, with the most perfect safety. 
 
 The passengers moreover have no means of communi- 
 cation with the " driver," or the " guard " of the train, 
 as a general thing, and are perfectly helpless in the pres- 
 ence of danger. The " guard " calls no stations, and 
 you can rarely ascertain where you are. The doors 
 are generally kept locked, but that does not matter 
 so much, as the upper half of each is of glass, which, 
 could, of course, be easily broken out by the passen- 
 ger, if he should desire to do so ; in fact, he can get 
 out of these English carriages in case of necessity, as 
 a rule, more easily than out of one of our own, but 
 that is the only advantage which they have over us, as 
 
ENGLISH RAILROADS. 35 
 
 far as I can see. These carriages are divided into 
 first, second, and third class ; the cost for third class 
 being only about half of the first, but these are very 
 common indeed, as they have no cushions, or curtains 
 of any kind whatever. In Germany, they have even a 
 fourth class, in which the passengers stand up like so 
 many cattle. The first-class carriages are quite luxu- 
 rious, and our tourist tickets entitled us to them all the 
 time, but we, occasionally, were compelled by unfore- 
 seen circumstances to try a second-class carriage, and 
 we found these quite nice enough for anybody ; in fact, 
 they are more patronized, a great deal, by the better 
 classes of European travelers, than the more expensive 
 first-class, from which has, no doubt, originated the 
 saying that *' none but fools and Americans ride first- 
 class in Europe." The '• driver " and " stoker " have 
 no protection from the weather, or next to none, as the 
 best engines either have no cab at all, or else only a 
 little projection, perhaps eighteen inches wide, over 
 their heads, which in bad weather I should think was 
 next to nothing. I remember, distinctly, that the 
 engine which pulled us from London to Folkestone, a 
 week or so later, when we were on our way to the 
 Continent, had no cab at all, and we left Charing- 
 Cross station in a driving rain. There is, most sur- 
 prising of all, no provision whatever for heating the 
 carriages, so that each passenger in the winter season 
 must furnish his own outfit of hot bricks, railway 
 rugs, etc. There is one redeeming feature, however, 
 about these English railways, which is this : they rarely 
 
36 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 ever cross each other's track on the same level, and 
 their depots, stations, and all their equipment, road- 
 bed, etc., are much more substantial than ours; all 
 this, no doubt, because foreign railway stocks are not 
 '* watered " like our own. At the stations, they gen- 
 erally have bridges over the tracks for the use of pas- 
 sengers, or tunnels under them, so that, with them, 
 human life is much safer from railway casualties than 
 with us, and persons who take the liberty of walking 
 along the road-bed of their railways, are arrested and 
 punished severely for trespass, and this also reduces 
 the number of accidents. 
 
 They have, however, to offset all these admirable 
 features, no such simple system of checking baggage 
 as we have, but they register it, that is to say, they 
 take your name and address, and write it in their 
 books, and then put a corresponding ticket on the 
 "luggage," as they call it. Of course, this is not 
 half as, good as our system of checks, but it seems to 
 be the best they can do. Now, for our journey 
 to York, where we expect to have a grand old 
 *' Masonic Love-Feast" to-morrow night, in that 
 famous city, which is known as the " Metropolis of 
 the North," and which should be doubly dear to every 
 Masonic heart. Soon after steaming out from the 
 station at Liverpool, we passed through a long and 
 disagreeable tunnel, and, then, for some distance, the 
 country was very mountainous, or rolling heavily, but 
 after a while, we began to see some of the beautiful 
 landscapes, and highly cultivated fields for which En- 
 
ENGLISH LANDSCAPES. 37 
 
 gland is famous. Of course, every foot of ground in 
 the *' Tight Little Island," must be utilized in one 
 way or another, because she has a j)opulation of nearly 
 forty millions (more than one-tenth of this in the city 
 of London), which must be fed, and therefore every 
 available foot of ground must be cultivated, except, of 
 course, those lordly domains scattered here and there, 
 throughout England, consisting of thousands and tens 
 of- thousands of acres, of which their titled owners 
 usually make a vast show-place. England, however, 
 fortunately for her enormous population, is not so en- 
 tirely dependent upon the cultivation of her soil as 
 the people of France, who are, pre-eminently, an agri- 
 cultural people. In France, the tilling of the soil is 
 the chief occupation of her people. In England, on 
 the other hand, her crops might fail for several suc- 
 cessive seasons, and yet her manufactures would keep 
 her people from utter want. It is for this reason, that 
 you see in England many more beautiful residences, 
 large pleasure grounds, immense parks, flower gardens, 
 etc., than you ever see in France. In riding from 
 Boulogne to Paris, and from Paris to Geneva, you 
 pass over countless miles of flat, marshy country, ex- 
 tending for leagues in every direction, and forming,. at 
 times, one monotonous and boundless plain, which is 
 seldom relieved by the presence of a handsome chateau, 
 or tolerable-looking country house, while England, in 
 July, is a beautiful country, and most fair to look upon, 
 and in some portions we saw of it, especially in York- 
 shire, and, from York, " up " to London, it reminded 
 
38 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 me forcibly of the noted Blue Grass regions of my 
 own Kentucky home, which, I think, with, perhaps, a 
 pardonable pride, are " the fairest the sun ever shone 
 on." 
 
 Oil our way to York, we passed through several of the 
 great manufacturing cities of England — Manchester, 
 Leeds, and Birmingham, and I saw at a glance the 
 great difference between their buildings and ours. 
 Frame buildings are almost unheard of in England, 
 and a house more than four or five stories high in their 
 cities, is a rarity, except in Edinboro, where we after- 
 wards saw some buildings at the foot of the Calton 
 Hill, which were nine or ten stories in height. Most of 
 the houses have a musty, weather-beaten look, partly 
 from their age, as well as from the extreme dampness 
 of the climate in a country where it rains more than 
 half the time, and is cloudy almost all the balance. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 YOEK, AND ITS RELATION TO THE INSTITUTION OF FREE- 
 MASONRY. 
 
 T\^7'E arrived at York about six p. m., and our 
 
 J^v train glided into one of the finest, and most 
 
 magnificent passenger stations in England, which is 
 
 built entirely of iron and glass, and is more than a 
 
YORK, AND ITS RELATION TO FREEMASONRY. 39 
 
 quarter of a mile in length. It is built in a curve, and 
 is truly a wonderful piece of architecture, and the 
 Koyal Station Hotel, which adjoins the depot, at which 
 a portion of our party occupied rooms, and where the 
 entire party obtained their meals during our stay in 
 York, is one of the most elegant and handsomely fur- 
 nished hotels, either in Europe or America, and Amer- 
 icans know that their country is hard to surpass in 
 that particular. The writer, in common with a num- 
 ber of other Sir Knights, was sent to the " Matthews 
 Temperance and Family Hotel," but we soon discov- 
 ered, that this "alleged temperance hotel " had the 
 usual adjunct of " a bar and a bar-maid," more or less 
 handsome and attractive, just like all other well regu- 
 lated English hostelries. This hotel was run and 
 managed altogether by females, as we found many of 
 the hotels outside the great cities, and they seemed to 
 manage things pretty well, too. Of course, we were 
 met at the train by the usual Masonic committee, and 
 made heartily welcome to the seat of " ancient York 
 Masonry." 
 
 As we stepped out of the depot to walk into the 
 Koyal Hotel, right before us loomed up, in all its 
 venerable antiquity, the old Eoman wall, which once 
 encircled the ancient city of York, (or Ehoracum^ in 
 the Latin tongue), and for which, next to the grand 
 old Minster, with its " dim religious light," York is 
 famous the world over. There, right before us, and 
 scarcely a hundred yards away, was a very high section 
 of the wall, perhaps forty feet in height, still strong 
 
40 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 and massive, and which had resounded to the tramp 
 of the famous legions of Imperial Rome, as far back 
 as the first century of the Christian era. So great 
 was my interest in this ancient wall, that, as soon as 
 possible, after seeing myself comfortably located at 
 my hotel, and hastily satisfying the wants of the inner 
 man, after our journey from Liverpool, I mounted the 
 wall which has, to this day, a parapet sufficiently wide 
 for a comfortable promenade, and which is quite a 
 resort for the good people of York ; and while I was 
 leisurely sauntering around the walls, and looking at 
 the quaint old city, which was spread out around and 
 below me in every direction, where I spent some time, 
 as night is late coming on in those northern latitudes, 
 which approach towards the " land of the midnight 
 sun," my thoughts unconsciously reverted to the days 
 of my boyhood, and to the stories of Roman valor, as 
 recounted by Tacitus, Sallust and Csesar. 
 
 York, aside from its connection with the institution 
 of Freemasonry, (and to which fact we were mainly 
 indebted, no doubt, for our invitation by the Free- 
 masons of that city, to make them a kind of interna- 
 tional visit, as it were), is one of the most interesting 
 of English cities, and, therefore, before entering upon 
 a description of York, and its intimate relationship to 
 the Masonic fraternity, we trust that we shall be par- 
 doned, if we devote a few pages to this ancient city, 
 from a historical standpoint. After the Roman occu- 
 pation of Britain, which continued from the first to the 
 fifth century, this city was the scene of successive 
 
YORK, AND ITS RELATION TO FREEMASONRY. 41 
 
 struggles between Briton, Saxon, and Dane. York is 
 especially famous in all Christian lands, as the place 
 where our modern recognition and celebration of 
 Christmas .was first instituted, this sacred " day of 
 days" having been kept by good King Arthur, and 
 the Knights of the Bound Table, in A. D. 521 ; and he, 
 also, rebuilt the churches of the old city, which were 
 then in ruins. The walls, to this day, afford a continu- 
 ous walk of several miles, particularly on the western 
 side of the river Ouse, which divides the city into two 
 portions, and at frequent intervals are found strong 
 towers pierced with arrow slits for cross-bowmen, 
 which, of course, were a prominent feature of the mili- 
 tary equipment of those feudal times. 
 
 William, the Conqueror, captured York in 1068, and 
 built a castle there, which stands to this day, although 
 in a very imperfect state of preservation ; and within 
 the castle walls, which are very strong and massive, 
 the courts of York are regularly held. Of course, we 
 have all read of the <' Wars of the Eoses," between 
 the noted houses of York and Lancaster, the house of 
 York being known as the white rose, and the house of 
 Lancaster as the red. Our own metropolis of New 
 York, with twenty times its population, takes its name 
 from this old capital of the North. When King Eich- 
 ard First ascended the throne of England in 1190, ter- 
 rible massacres took place among the Jews all over 
 England; the worst butchery of all, taking place here, 
 where it has been calculated, that as many as 2,000 of 
 these persecuted people, were butchered in cold blood. 
 
42 A KNTGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 The English Parliaments were held in this city for 
 centuries, before the capital was removed to London, 
 and no less than twelve of these Parliaments were held 
 here, during the reigns of Edward II. and Edward III. 
 During the contests between the ill-fated and unhappy- 
 monarch, Charles I., and the Parliamentary forces, 
 under the great Roundhead leader, Cromwell, the city 
 of York, true to its royal traditions, was loyal to the 
 King. 
 
 It was besieged for some time, but held out faith- 
 fully, and when the fiery Prince Rupert, the nephew 
 of King Charles, with 20,000 cavaliers, came to raise the 
 siege, which he succeeded in doing, the King's forces, 
 flushed with victory, imprudently withdrew from be- 
 hind the fortifications of the royal city, and, next, met 
 the enemy on the fatal field of Marston Moor. Here, 
 but seven or eight miles from York, was fought one 
 of the bloodiest battles which ever took place on En- 
 glish ground, and the fanatical soldiers of the great 
 Roundhead leader utterly routed the forces of the 
 King, and there forged one more link in the chain 
 which was, finally, to bring the head of the impolitic 
 monarch to the block. The next morning, which was 
 Tuesday, July 24th, our party were gathered together, 
 and, under the guidance of Bro. T. B. Whytehead, 
 Past Master, and one of the most eminent Masons of 
 Yorkshire, we were conducted to the various inter- 
 esting sights of York. We first visited the gardens of 
 the Yorkshire Philosophical Society, which contain 
 the beautiful remains of St. Mary's Abbey, as well as 
 
ANCIENT RUINS. 43 
 
 the Museums of Natural History and Antiquity, which 
 the society owns. The first thing of interest which 
 strikes the observer, is the multangular Tower which, 
 according to the best antiquarians, dates back to the Ro- 
 man occupation, and, therefore, ranks in antiquity, and 
 interest , with the Roman wall. Near this, are the remains 
 of St. Leonard's Hospital, which was not a religious in- 
 stitution, but entirely of a secular order, and which 
 dates back to the twelfth century. The most interesting 
 ruin, however, is that of St. Mary's Abbey, a Bene- 
 dictine Monastery, which was the richest and most 
 influential of any of the order in the north of England. 
 The original foundation of the Abbey dates back to 
 1078, but that structure was destroyed by fire, and 
 the present one, whose ruins are yet to be seen, was 
 founded in 1270. 
 
 The principal remains to be seen, is the north wall 
 of the nave of the church, which has still eight of the 
 large windows remaining. This old ruin, covered with 
 ivy, creeping in and out at the windows, is a very inter- 
 esting one, and in looking around the foundations of 
 the destroyed portions of the Abbey, our party dis- 
 covered a number of <' marks," which were undoubt- 
 edly the genuine marhs of the speculative, as well as 
 operative Freemasons who worked in the old Abbey. 
 
 We afterwards saw, in the crypts of the grand old 
 Cathedral, undoubted evidences that Freemasonry had 
 helped to rear that unequal ed specimen of pure Gothic 
 architecture. Next, we proceeded to the Minster, and 
 when the view of that unexampled structure burst 
 
44 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 upon US, all at once, as we suddenly turned the corner 
 of the street, not being aware that we were so very 
 near, most of us were totally unprepared for the 
 glorious spectacle which was presented to our aston- 
 ished eyes. Like all the great cathedrals of Europe, 
 this, the first specimen of the architecture of the 
 Middle Ages which we had seen thus far on our tour, 
 is in the form of the Latin cross, its extreme length 
 (or the portion which, in all these ecclesiastical struc- 
 tures, is known as the nave), being 524 feet, and its 
 breadth, (or the transept) 222 feet, and it has two 
 towers, each', 196 feet in height. We may here remark, 
 once for all, that the term nave always means that 
 portion of this class of structures which is the 
 longest, and the term transept, the width, or, in other 
 words, alludes to the cross piece of the cross, after 
 which they are invariably modeled, as suggested above. 
 The present structure was founded about 1170, and 
 completed about 1400, A. D. The most wonderful 
 thing in the great Cathedral, is the famous east window, 
 which is said to be 75 feet in height, and 30 feet in 
 diameter, and to the eye, unaccustomed to such sights, 
 it seems really greater. This is the largest stained 
 glass window in the world, and contains a vast number 
 of representations of scenes and characters taken from 
 the Scriptures. The west window does not compare 
 with this, in size, or in magnificence, nor is it entirely 
 Scriptural, as it contains the portrait of a number of 
 the earlier Archbishops of York. 
 
 It may be well to state here, that York has one of the 
 
MASONIC FEATURES. 45 
 
 two Archbishops of, England, Canterbury having the 
 other, which fact shows the ancient importance of this 
 city in the Christian world, as London itself, the great- 
 est metropolis of the universe, has only a Bishop. This 
 structure is said to be the most purely Gothic specimen 
 of architecture to be found in Europe, and it would take 
 a volume to describe it, so we will leave the matter in 
 the hands of some more ambitious writer. Before 
 leaving the Minster, several of us ascended the Lantern 
 Tower, and obtained a glorious view of the city, and 
 of the beautiful country, for miles in every direction, 
 and surely Yorkshire never presented a more lovely 
 panorama, than on that glorious Jiily morning. We 
 now pass to the purely Masonic features of our visit 
 to York, and hope that those of our readers, if any we 
 have, who are not Freemasons, nor interested in an 
 order which proudly traces its origin back to the build- 
 ing of King Solomon's Temple, will either bear with us 
 for a few pages, or pass a little further along in the 
 book, which will be found thenceforth mostly of a de- 
 scriptive character. Before alluding to the banquet, 
 which was given to us American Freemasons, in such 
 handsome style, by our trans- Atlantic brethren, it is 
 the desire of the writer of this feeble tribute to 
 the courtesy of the Masons of York, to state here 
 some facts concerning the early history of the 
 Craft, which we trust will be of interest to every 
 "Free and Accepted Mason, wheresoever he may be 
 dispersed on the face of the globe." From a notable 
 
46 A KNIGHT TEaiPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 address, delivered a few years since, before the Grand 
 Co mmandery of Kentucky, byKev. Brother, and Sir S. 
 W. Young, formerly a resident of the city of London, 
 we take the liberty of quoting the following historical 
 account of the antiquity of our Order, and of the noble 
 part which the city of York has taken in the revival 
 and promulgation of the Craft during, and swce, the 
 Middle Ages. That distinguished brother and writer, 
 speaks as follows : — 
 
 *' I feel it a very high honor, indeed, to address an 
 audience so distinguished, on so noble a subject as 
 Masonry. A church has anathematized our Order, 
 monarchs have persecuted it, and fools have sneered at 
 its mysteries, yet, to-day, a million Masons are bound 
 together in a love so fruitful, and a harmony so serene, 
 as to bear no ecclesiastical comparisons, under an or- 
 ganization and discipline more perfect, than those of the 
 armies of kings, and under the instruction of a wisdom 
 so calm, and so solid, that it looks with un angered 
 pity at its ignorant traducers. If Cyclopedias reflect 
 current opinion, Freemasonry is supposed to be a 
 modern invention, having only imaginary roots in the 
 historic past. I would like to show you briefly to- 
 night, that our claims to antiquity are no mere empty 
 blazon. Students of history are well aware, that Craft- 
 guilds are as old as the republics of Greece, or the first 
 kingdom of Rome, and stretch away into the dim 
 antiquity which shrouds the origin of the civilization 
 of the Valley of the Nile. Amongst those guilds, that 
 
ANTIQUITY OF THE CRAFT. 47 
 
 of the master-builders was one of the earliest and most 
 honored. The recent removal of the Alexandrian mon- 
 olith has shown, that its foundations had been, in the 
 far off past, well and truly laid, in due and ancient 
 form, according to the traditions, and ritual of the 
 craft. Our Anglo-Saxon Masonry is lineally descended 
 from the Masonic Colleges of Kome, which traced 
 their pedigree to the foundation of Numa Pompilius, 
 715 B. C, and, through him, hack to Jerusalem and 
 King Solomon. In 526 B. C, the Collegia were es- 
 tablished in Great Britain, and one of the Inspectors, 
 or Grand Masters, was St. Alban, who had the honor 
 of being the first Christian martyr in the island. 
 
 The headquarters of the Craft were in the city of York. 
 In A. D., 614, Pope Boniface IV., conferred on them 
 the sole right of erecting religious buildings, and 
 declared them free of taxation. In 925, A. D., King 
 Athelstane convoked the Grand Lodge, and fixed the 
 seat of the Grand Mastership' at York. In A. D., 959, 
 St. Dunstan, Archbishop of Canterbury, was elected 
 Grand Master. King Edward, the Confessor, and King 
 Henry IV., filled the same office, and subsequently 
 King Henry VI., James I., and Charles II. The 
 great architect. Sir Christopher "Wren, was Grand 
 Master of the Order, and, in 1703, when the building of 
 the great Metropolitan Cathedral w;js completed, the 
 Lodge of St. Paul passed a resolution, that ' the privi- 
 leges of Freemasonry be no longer confined to opera- 
 tive Masons, but, be free to all men of all professions.' 
 
48 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Thus, did operative Masonry, by opening its doors to 
 the learned and good of all professions, spiritualize its 
 technical teachings, and make the Craft symbolical of 
 wisdom and virtue. From Great Britain, the reorgan- 
 ized Craft spread all over the globe, and to-day num- 
 bers, in North America, alone, one million souls. 
 Freemasonry is broad-based on a morality, as wide as 
 the human race, and Christian, Jew, Moslem, and 
 Brahman, can clasp hands over its altars." 
 
 *«Lamartine, in his famous history of the Giron- 
 dists, while speaking of the influence which the 
 tolerant reign of Frederic II. (known in history, how- 
 ever, much better by the title of ' Frederic the 
 Great,') had upon the institution of Freemasonry in 
 the eighteenth century, used the following language : 
 " Great men always bequeath the impulse of their 
 spirit to their country. The reign of Frederic had, at 
 least, one happy result ; Teligious tolerance arose in 
 Germany from the very contempt in which Frederic 
 held religious creeds. Under the wing of this tolera- 
 tion, the spirit of philosophy had organized occult 
 associations, after the image of Freemasonry. The 
 German princes were initiated. It was thought an act 
 of superior mind, to penetrate into those shadows 
 which, in reality^ included nothing beyond some gen- 
 eral principles of humanity and virtue, with no direct 
 application to civil institutions. Frederic, in his youth, 
 had been initiated, himself, at Brunswick, by Major 
 
EARLY HISTORY. 49 
 
 Bielfield ; the Emperor Joseph II., the most bold inno- 
 vator of his time, had, also, desired to undergo these 
 proofs at Vienna, under the tutelage of the Baron 
 de Born, the chief of the Freemasons of Austria. 
 
 These societies, which had no religious tendency in 
 England, (but is not the learned author, to say the 
 least, a little far-fetched in that statement?) because, 
 there, liberty conspired openly in Parliament, and the 
 press, had a wholly different sense on the Continent. 
 There, they were the secret council clmmhers of inde- 
 pendent thouglit; the thought, escaping from books, 
 passed into action. Between the initiated and estab- 
 lished institutions, the war was concealed, but the more 
 deadly. The hidden agents of these societies had, evi- 
 dently, for aim the creation of a government of the 
 opinion of the human race, in opposition to the govern- 
 ment of prejudice. They desired to reform religious^ 
 political, and civil society, beginning hy the most re- 
 fined classes. These Lodges were the catacombs of a 
 new worship. The sect of Illumines, or llluminati, 
 (that is to say, the intelligent, or enlightened), founded 
 and guided by Weishaupt, was spreading in Germany, 
 in conjunction with the Freemasons, and Rosicru- 
 cians.." 
 
 Such is the tribute, though unwilling, I take it to be, 
 which has been paid to the genius of Freemasonry, 
 by one who was, no doubt, opposed to the institution, 
 because the italics are not those of the eloquent his- 
 torian, but the compiler of this brief and imperfect 
 
 4 
 
50 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 sketch of the history of Fremasoniy, has taken this 
 method of showing that, even the historian of a Cath- 
 olic country, which is notoriously opposed, as are all 
 Catholic countries, to the tenets and principles of this 
 noble institution (and the crusade against which is 
 led, at this very hour, by the Pope of Rome, himself, 
 Leo XIII.), has readily admitted that it has for 
 its foundation stone, " some general principles of 
 humanity and virtue." But, as the French say, Reve- 
 nons a nos moufons, after this digression, which, we 
 trust, will be pardoned in consideration of what has 
 been contributed, meantime, to the further enlightment 
 of the Craft, and, now, to begin once more where we left 
 off. The writer owes to the courtesy of Eminent Com- 
 mander Gassette, a copy of the pamphlet entitled, '* The 
 Masonic Reception at York, on Monday Septem- 
 ber 5th, 1881," (which was more than two years 
 prior to our visit) " under the Auspices of the 
 York and Eboracum Lodges, with a full Report of the 
 Addresses given, the Ancient Documents and Relics 
 Exhibited, and an Alphabetical List of the Brethren 
 Present, byBro. T. B. Whytehead, P. M.," who has 
 been spoken of above, and to which document we are 
 indebted for some interesting facts concerning the his- 
 tory of ancient York Masonry, which we suspect are 
 known to but few of the Craft on this side of the 
 Atlantic, and, in this belief, we reproduce them here, 
 trusting that they will prove a welcome contribution 
 to Masonic knowledge. Before doing this, however, 
 
NOTICE OF THE PRESS. 51 
 
 we shall copy a brief notice of our Pilgrims, which 
 appeared in the New York Herald, on the next day 
 after our arrival : — 
 
 *' AMERICAN FREEMASONS AT YORK. 
 
 "About a hundred members of the Mason Craft, 
 including about eighty Knights Templar, from Chi- 
 cago, under the conduct of Mr. Norman Cassette of 
 that city, arrived in York yesterday, accompanied 
 by a number of ladies, the party being on a tour 
 through Europe. The voyageurs arrived in Liverpool, 
 yesterday morning, by the splendid steamship. City of 
 Kome, and reached York by special train, yester- 
 day evening, the trans-Atlantic brethren having ac- 
 cepted the invitation of the Ancient Ebor Preceptory of 
 Knights Templar. To-day a meeting of the Knights 
 Templars of this province will be held, by the 
 invitation of Lord Londesborough, at the Masonic 
 Hall, Duncombe Place, where Mr. T. E. W. Tew, 
 of Pontefract, the Provincial Prior of West Yorkshire, 
 will preside, in the unavoidable absence of his Lordship, 
 and with the object of making the meeting a county 
 affair. The visitors will be conducted through the 
 city, and its principal objects of interest shown them, 
 and, in the afternoon, they will be entertained at din- 
 ner at the Guild Hall, when the Lord Mayor, the city 
 sheriff, and other prominent Masons, are expected to 
 be present. The party will leave York for London 
 to-morrow." 
 
52 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 We will begin our quotations from the pamphlet 
 above referred to, by giving a summary of a paper 
 read at the reception alluded to, as having occurred 
 on September 5th, 1881, on " The Records etc., in 
 the Archives of the York Lodge," by Bro. J. Todd, 
 P. M., York Lodge. 
 
 " In Masonic history, the ancient city of York has, 
 from a very early period, held an important and prom- 
 inent position; indeed, there is no place more interest- 
 ing to the Masonic student, than the city which, by 
 tradition, and the evidence of ancient manuscript 
 Constitutions, is marked as the early seat of Masonry 
 in this country. Nearly all the old Constitutions, of 
 which there are upwards of twenty in existence, men- 
 tion York as the place where, in early times, the meet- 
 ings, or assemblies, of the Craft were held, and, from 
 these meetings, or assemblies, there is little, or no 
 doubt, that the Grand Lodge of all England, formerly 
 held in this city, was originally constituted. It seems 
 that the term ' Freemason ' is of, comparatively, mod- 
 ern origin, as, until the year 1704, the term ' Mason ' 
 was the one generally in use. This is seen to be 
 the case, from inspection of Roll No. 2, which is the 
 most modern of the York MSS., and is written on 
 parchment, and is headed ' The Constitutions of 
 Masonry, 1703.' The minute book (of the Grand 
 Lodge) commencing December 27th, 1774, and end- 
 ing July 31st, 1780, and the minutes of the Grand 
 Chapter at York, commencing February, 1778, and 
 
ANCIENT MANUSCRIPTS. 53 
 
 ending 10th of September, 1781, were discovered by 
 Bro. Hughan, amongst the records of the Grand Lodge 
 of London, and, afterwards, restored to us. The lat- 
 ter book is interesting, as containing a minute of a 
 Koyal Arch Chapter's having been held in the crypt of 
 York Minster, on Sunday, May 27th, 1778. The 
 minute is as follows : — 
 
 " ' York Cathedral, 27th of May, 1778 ; the Eoyal 
 Arch Brethren whose names are under mentioned, as- 
 sembled in the Ancient Lodge, now a sacred recess 
 within the Cathedral Church of York, and, then and 
 there, opened a Chapter of Free and Accepted Masons 
 in the most sublime degree of Royal Arch.' (Here 
 follow the names of nine (9) brethren. * The Chapter 
 was held, and then closed in usual fprm, being ad- 
 journed to the first Sunday in June, except in case of 
 emergency.' In the Grand Lodge minute book, 
 under date of February, 1780, is a record of the pro- 
 ceedings of the Companions of the Honorable Order 
 of Knights Templars, and, subsequently, a resolution 
 was agreed to, affirming the authority of the Grand 
 Lodge over the five Degrees, or Orders of Masonry, 
 viz.: 1st, Entered Apprentice; 2nd, Fellow Craft; 
 3rd, Master Mason; 4th, Knight Templar: 5tli, 
 Royal Arch." (The writer is here inclined to think, 
 that there must have been some typographical error 
 in this statement, which places the degree of Knight 
 Templar precedent to that of Royal Arch, for the 
 reason that, in a quotation which will be given a little 
 further on, the Templar Degree is placed subsequent 
 
54 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 to that of Eoyal Arch, which is, more than likely, the 
 proper order of conferring these degrees among En- 
 glish Masons of the present day, and which is the order 
 observed habitually among the Masons of this coun- 
 try). This Grand Lodge of York was the only Grand 
 Lodge of Great Britain , which recognized the Order of 
 the Templars. There is, also, a certificate issued by the 
 Grand Lodge, signed John Brown, G. S., as follows; 
 "Admitted (1st degree), 26th of January, 1779 ; raised 
 (2nd degree), 29th of February, 1779; raised (3d de- 
 gree), 27th of September, 1779 ; raised (4th degree 
 or R. A. M.), 27th of October,- 1779 ; Knight Tem- 
 plar (5th degree), 29th of November, 1779." 
 
 This is believed to be the earliest official document 
 in Great Britain and Ireland, showing the connection of 
 Knights Templars with Freemasonry. The earliest 
 working of the Royal Arch degree in York was, until 
 recently, supposed to be an entry, relating to a Most 
 Sublime Chapter's having been opened, 8th of Febru- 
 ary, 1778, although, there is mention of that degree in 
 the treasurer's book, a few years earlier. In 1880, how- 
 ever, an old minute book of the Royal Arch degree 
 was discovered, commencing February 7, 1762, thus 
 showing the actual working of Royal Arch Masonry, 
 sixteen years earlier, by the members of the Grand 
 Lodge of York. In the book of miscellaneous records 
 and documents, will be found part of a minute book of 
 the < ' Honorable Order of Knights Templars assembled 
 in the Grand Lodge room of York, Sir Francis Smyth, 
 Grand Master." The first entry, under date of the 
 
MASONIC TEMPLARS. 55 
 
 18th of February, 1780, is (according to Bro. Hug- 
 han), the earliest record of Masonic Templars in 
 England. 
 
 Just at this point, we quote once more from 
 Sir. S. W. Young, as to the connection between 
 the Order of the Templars, and the institution of Ma- 
 sonry. "But in our own Anglo-Saxon race, always 
 religious, and altogether Christian, the need was felt 
 of a closer and tenderer bond of union, based on their 
 common faith of a Christian Freemasonry, which 
 should lift men to a higher level, and be touched by a 
 finer spirit. The old connection, liistorically certain^ 
 between the Templar Orders of the Crusades, and the 
 operative Lodges of Freemasons, supplied the long 
 felt want, and the chivalric orders of Christian Free- 
 masonry sprang into light. The Level and Square 
 were combined into the Cross, and ' the poor soldiers 
 of Jesus' renewed their old warfare against the enemies 
 of the Lord, only with the chivalry and weapons of the 
 eighteenth, instead of those of the twelfth century." 
 From Dr. J. D. Bell, P. G. D. D. P. G. M. G. Sup. of 
 North and East Yorkshire, who made an address at 
 York upon the same occasion, we obtain the following 
 valuable information regarding the early history • of 
 the '* Yorke rite." He said: "That whenever, as a 
 Mason, he visited the good old city of York, he always 
 felt as though he were treading upon sacred 
 ground, probably, from a consciousness of the im- 
 portant part which this city played, at a very 
 early period, after the arrival of the Romans, 
 
56 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 and np to the present century. He regretted to find 
 that, within the last few years, it had been the fashion, 
 with a certain class of Masonic students, to ignore all 
 traditional, or legendary, accounts of, either, events or 
 circumstances, relating to the early history of the 
 Craft, and to treat such accounts as myths ; forgetting 
 the marked distinction which obtains between defini- 
 tions. For his own part, until evidence to the con- 
 trary was adduced, he was of opinion that Grand 
 Lodges had been held in York, and only^ in that city^ 
 from the year 926, until the reign of Queen Elizabeth. 
 These meetings of the Craft were dignified by the title 
 of ' Assemblies,' which were, to all intents and pur- 
 poses, Grand Lodges, and there is every reason to 
 believe that they were held in York, long antecedent 
 to their being held in London, and previous to the 
 year 1567, he was not aware of any Grand Lodge 
 or 'Assemblies,' having taken place in that city, 
 although, no doubt, Lodges were held in London, and 
 different parts of the kingdom, but the * General 
 Assembly,' was held in York, where all the records 
 were kept, and Preston (who the writer supposes, from 
 the context, must have been some high English Ma- 
 sonic authority, as well as antiquarian), informs us 
 that, to this Assembly appeals, were made on every 
 important occasion. The disposition to treat tradi- 
 tions and legends simply as myths had led, and would 
 lead, its advocates into difficulties. If they had thought- 
 fully considered how much the history of the Craft 
 differed from, perhaps, thai of any other institution. 
 
RECEPTION AT YORK. 57 
 
 they need no longer wonder that they had so few doc- 
 uments, or other direct evidence of long by-gone trans- 
 actions, the transmissio7i of which, every ' Entered Ap- 
 prentice,' who had bowed the knee before the Masonic 
 altar knew from his own individual experience^ was, 
 almost solely, by oral communication. Nevertheless, 
 now and then, tangible and undoubted records unexpect- 
 edly presented themselves . ' ' 
 
 With these valuable extracts, which throw much addi- 
 tional light upon our previous knowledge of Freema- 
 sonry, we bring our remarks upon this topic to a close, 
 for the present at least, and we desire to acknowledge 
 most heartily, our obligations to our trans-Atlantic 
 brethren and, especially to the Rev. and Sir S. 
 W. Young, for their luminous and interesting ad- 
 ditions to Masonic history, which we have made 
 use of so liberally in this connection. We now pass 
 to some account of the Masonic exemplification given 
 in York, on July, the 24th, and of the elegant recep- 
 tion at the Lord Mayor's residence, and the sumptuous 
 banquet in the evening. This city, because of its an- 
 cient prominence in English history, enjoys the distinc- 
 tion of being one of the three cities of Great Britain 
 and Ireland, which have a Lord Mayor, a Mansion 
 House (as the residence of the Lord Mayor is called), 
 and a Guild Hall, where all the banquets, etc., which 
 are given in an official capacity are held, the other two 
 cities being London, and Dublin. 
 
 Some of our party visited one of the York lodges 
 to see the third degree conferred upon a candidate, 
 
58 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 but as there were some other things of interest about 
 the city which I was particularly desirous of seeing, I 
 did not see any of the " Blue Lodge " work, but I was 
 present at the conferring of the " Order of the Tem- 
 ple " by the ancient Ebor Preceptory of York, and was 
 highly edified by their ceremonies, and thought the 
 exemplication more solemn and impressive, if that 
 were possible, than the work done by the Command- 
 eries of America, which I have seen exemplified in four 
 different States. That evening, by 8 p. m., we re- 
 paired to the Mansion House, where we were presented 
 to and received by the Lord Mayor, who had very 
 recently been made a Master Mason, and were intro- 
 duced to various prominent English Masons, viewed 
 the handsome paintings which adorned the walls of the 
 Lord Mayor's residence, and had a good time gener- 
 ally, for probably an hour, when we were invited to 
 the banquet hall, which had been handsomely deco- 
 rated in honor of the occasion. The writer had the 
 good luck to be seated at the right hand of Brother J. 
 S. Cumberland, P. M,, who was a royal good fellow, 
 full of fun and anecdote, and he literally kept our end 
 of the table in a roar. The edibles were served in 
 faultless taste, and in the greatest profusion, and the 
 finest brands of champagne were much more plentiful, 
 and, also, much more in demand than Adam's ale. 
 
 Brothers T. B. Whytehead and J. S. Cumberland took 
 a prominent part in the exercises of the evening, not 
 only on that occasion, but upon one, perhaps, equally 
 memorable, about six years ago (July 25th, 1878), 
 
RECEPTION AT YORK. 59 
 
 when Mary Commandery No. 36, K. T., of Philadel- 
 phia, made a tour of Europe, and who, like ourselves, 
 were also entertained by the kindly brethren of York, 
 and to show their appreciation of these true English 
 Masons, they were both made honorary members of 
 the Mary Commandery, and were also presented with 
 beautiful Templar jewels by that Commandery. That 
 Commandery also presented the ancient Ebor Precept- 
 ory. No. 101, of York, with a beautiful white watered- 
 silk Knight Templar banner, decorated with the Templar 
 emblems, and gotten up in the most sumptuous style 
 as to the tout ensemble. York Lodge No. 236, has 
 what is called the Masonic Silver Loving Cup, which is 
 a large tankard having a capacity of several gallons of 
 "nectar and ambrosia," and, on this occasion, after 
 having been filled to the brim with some delightful con- 
 coction, known only, perhaps, to the " universal Brit- 
 ish nation," when toasts "to the Queen of England, 
 the Patroness of the Order," whose son and heir appa- 
 rent, the Prince of Wales, is, by the way, the present 
 Grand Master of England, and "to the President of 
 the United States," were drunk standing; this large 
 bowl was started from the head of our table, each 
 brother drinking directly from the tankard, by the 
 help of another brother (as one person could not han- 
 dle it at all), then he would pass it across the table to 
 the brother opposite, then he would pass it back, and 
 so on until each and every brother had " partici- 
 pated." I had heard a great deal about the " wine 
 and Wassail" of Merry England, but this was my 
 
60 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 first experience of it, and truly it was a pleasant sight, 
 and I felt that it was good to be there. 
 
 In addition to the toasts mentioned above, there was 
 a third " To the Grand Masters of the Order in En- 
 gland, and the United States," by the V. E. Provincial 
 Prior T. E. W. Tew, and in the printed programme 
 for the evening, the names of our speakers, who were 
 to respond to these toasts, were not given, and, although 
 they were responded to most happily by various dis- 
 tinguished members of our party, we can, much to our 
 regret, now only state that, to the toast " To the Presi- 
 dent of the United States," the response was most 
 feelingly and appropriately made by the Hon. Philetus 
 Sawyer, a member of that august body, the United 
 States Senate, whose Ex-President, the Hon. Chester 
 A. Arthur, had been raised to the exalted office of the 
 Presidency by the death, at the hands of the assassin, 
 of the lamented James A. Garfield, who was himself 
 one of the " bright and shining lights " of the Order 
 of the Temple. Next in order came the toast " To 
 our American visitors," by E. Fra. Whytehead, P. E. 
 P. P. G. Capt. Guards, and the response by E. Fra. 
 Norman T. Gassette, E. C. Apollo Commandery. 
 Then a toast " To the members of the Order in York- 
 shire," by Rev. Fra. George C. Larimer, D. D., and 
 the response by E. Fra. Cumberland, P. E. P. G. 
 Aide de Camp. Next came the toast " To the Lord- 
 Mayor of York," proposed by E. Fra. C. H. Benton, 
 Grand Master, etc. (who by the way held several 
 high Masonic offices, and from which fact he was 
 
A GRAND BANQUET. 61 
 
 dubbed " the concentrated Mason "), and the response 
 was made by the Lord Mayor in person. Last came the 
 toast " To the City of Chicago," proposed by E. Fra. 
 M. Millington, E. P. Ancient Ebor Preceptory, re- 
 sponded to by E. Fra. W. A. Stevens, P. E. P. Apollo 
 Commandery. 
 
 Everything went off in the happiest manner, 
 and the festivities were prolonged to a late hour, 
 and during the evening Bro. Cumberland, who 
 was quite noted as a vocalist, rendered several fine 
 solos. I asked him if he knew the Prince of Wales, 
 and he said, *' Oh, yes, quite well, and he is a jolly 
 good fellow," and that " he often came down to York- 
 shire on hunting excursions." In fact, the Prince and 
 Princess were in York, only the week before our visit, 
 in attendance upon " the Grand Agricultural Show," 
 and we saw over the various gates of the old walled 
 city, many evidences of the numerous decorations 
 which had been put up in honor of their presence. 
 You must bear in mind that in England, when they 
 speak of going to London, they always say "up to 
 London " no matter in what part of the kingdom they 
 happen to live, so they say " down to York," " down 
 to Scotland," though these places are both north of 
 London. The grand banquet closed with the toast, 
 "To all Knights Templars wheresoever scattered 
 o'er land or water," and was drunk standing and, in 
 silence, and then, like the Arabs of the desert, "we 
 folded our tents, and, silently, stole away," our hearts 
 full of regret at parting with our kind English friends, 
 
62 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 between whom and us, the broad Atlantic would soon 
 leave a barrier, never again to be passed over, or, at 
 least, by very few of us assembled on that memorable, 
 and unusual occasion. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 YOKE TO LONDON. 
 
 fHE next morning, about ten a. m., we left York 
 by special train for London, all aglow with anx- 
 iety to see its wonderful Tower, and sublime West- 
 minster Abbey, the two spots which, in all the world, 
 are to my mind, fullest of historic interest and 
 with which the story of England's greatness, as well 
 as ofttime wickedness and tyranny, is indissolubly 
 blended, to say nothing of its countless attractions of 
 lesser interest. On our way up to London we passed 
 through a beautiful country, which seemed, at times, 
 a veritable paradise, saw the two great cathedrals of 
 Lincoln and Ely, each of which has a Bishop, passed 
 through Peterborough, where Mary, Queen of Scots, 
 was buried, after she was beheaded at Fotheringay 
 Castle in 1587, and whence her remains were after- 
 wards removed to Westminster Abbey, and made a 
 stop of an hour or so at Cambridge, in order that we 
 
CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSITY. 63 
 
 might have a passing glance at one of the great Uni- 
 versities of England, where many of the greatest of 
 earth have prepared themselves for their subsequent 
 high estate, by the most thorough mental culture. 
 
 At the outset, it may be well to state, that the exact 
 time when Cambridge became a seat of learning, is veiled 
 in obscurity, and it is said that it was known as such, 
 long prior to the twelfth century, but there are records 
 in existence, showing it to date, at least, to that time. 
 The colleges are seventeen in number, and, unlike our 
 American institutions of learning ( where the students 
 are all under one common authority, and are thrown 
 together as one common body), each college regulates 
 its own affairs, and is a separate corporation, governed 
 by its own master, or head, but, of course, all are sub- 
 ject to the Chancellor, who is the nominal head of all, 
 but he does not reside at Cambridge, of necessity, at 
 all, and his powers are really exercised by the Vice- 
 Chancellor, who is chosen from among the seventeen 
 masters of the various colleges, who is, for a year, the 
 actual governor of this grand old institution of learning. 
 
 The present Chancellor is his Grace, the Duke of Dev- 
 onshire, whose town house I afterwards saw in London, 
 and who was by the way, the father of Lord Cavendish, 
 the Under Secretary for Ireland, of Earl Spencer, Lord 
 Lieutenant, who was so brutally murdered in the 
 Phcenix Park, Dublin, in the spring of 1882. Each 
 student when he arrives at Cambridge, if he has not 
 really made up his mind before coming up to the univer- 
 sity, picks out his college, say for example, either Trin- 
 
64 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 ]ly, or Kings', or whatever his choice maybe, and that 
 college is then his home, during his entire university 
 career, 
 
 He lives there, boards there, recites there, and so 
 far as his studies, his examinations, and his every-day 
 life are concerned, he has no connection except, per- 
 haps, socially, with any other of the colleges of the 
 University. The library of this ancient seat of learn- 
 ing contains more than 400,000 printed books, and 
 about 3,000 MSS. of almost every age and language. 
 At the time of our brief visit to Cambridge, much to 
 my regret, it was during the long vacation, and we 
 saw hardly any signs of life about the colleges, or the 
 city, either, for that matter, as like all other " 'varsity 
 towns," either in Europe or America, when the stu- 
 dents are away, there is no life apparently about, any 
 where. The students of the various colleg-es have a 
 distinctive dress, consisting of a cap and gown, by 
 which, at a glance, experts can tell to which college a 
 man belongs. . When there, I remember of seeing but 
 a single student, slowly sauntering through the street, 
 with his mortar-board cap' and black gown, but of 
 course, I could only conjecture as to which college he 
 might happen to belong. The two most famous of 
 the whole number are Trinity, and Kings' College, and 
 it has been said of the former, that " it is the noblest 
 collegiate foundation in the kingdom, whether we re- 
 gard the number of its members, the extent of its 
 buildings, or the illustrious men who have been edu- 
 cated within its walls. Christ College, the largest 
 
TRINITY COLLEGE. 65 
 
 college in Oxford, falls considerably short of it." 
 The old court of this college is said to be the most 
 spacious quadrangle in the world, its four sides being 
 entirely surrounded by buildings. It contains an area 
 of almost two acres. 
 
 We were very much hurried in our visit to this glori- 
 ous old University, but, nevertheless, I managed to see 
 the interior of the chapel of Trinity, which was erected 
 during the regime of Queen Mary, and Queen Eliza- 
 beth, and is a fine specimen of what is known as the 
 Tudor-Gothic style of architecture. In a room, to the 
 left of the main entrance, I noticed a large number of 
 gowns hanging on the walls, and I was told that the 
 students wore these, while attending religious exercises 
 in the chapel. 
 
 There are more than six thousand persons connected 
 with this University, during the greater portion of the 
 year, a circumstance which makes Yale and Harvard, 
 with only 700, or 800 students, each, seem very small 
 affairs in comparison. There is, in the court of Trinity, 
 a handsome fountain, which is supplied with water 
 from a reservoir, several miles away. There are sev- 
 eral very fine pieces of statuary at the entrance to the 
 chapel, but the two which most interested me, were the 
 statues of Lord Macaulay, the famous Whig historian, 
 and of Sir Isaac Newton, two of the foremost of her 
 many distinguished graduates, the latter said to be one 
 of the finest statues in England, the inscription on 
 which is as follows: ^^ Qui genus humanum ingenio 
 superavif.'' 
 
 5 
 
66 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 I would be glad *to give a worthier sketch of this 
 great university, but I have neither the space, nor the 
 materials at hand, for such a purpose, so we will hasten 
 on to the great metropolis, which is, now, only sixty 
 miles away; but before doing so, we will spend a few 
 minutes in suggesting the names of only a few of the 
 many illustrious warriors, statesmen, poets, judges, 
 divines, men of letters and, in fact, men famous in 
 every walk of life, who have, at one time, or another, 
 been students at this grand old institution. Pre-emi- 
 nent in the list, because of their prominence in 
 the Christian world, come the names of the " Three 
 Blessed Martyrs ' ' to the impious wrath of Bloody Mary, 
 who were burned at the stake in front of Baliol Col- 
 lege, Oxford; Archbishop Cranmer, Nicholas Ridley, 
 Bishop of London, and Hugh Latimer, Bishop of Wor- 
 cester, the two latter suffering together in 1555, and 
 Archbishop Cranmer in 1556. 
 
 Next we may mention Thomas Gray, the author of 
 the "Elegy in a Country Churchyard;" Lord Chief 
 Justice EUenborough ; Spencer, author of the " Faerie 
 Queen ; " William Pitt, the great Prime Minister ; the 
 learned Erasmus of Rotterdam, the great ally and 
 coadjutor of Martin Luther in the Reformation ; 
 Fletcher and Marlowe, the Dramatists; Sir Francis 
 Walsingham, Secretary to Queen Elizabeth ; Sir Robert 
 Walpole ; Lord Howard of Effingham, the commander 
 of the English forces, at the time of the formidable 
 Spanish Armada in 1588, the famous Lord Chesterfield, 
 
EMINENT GRADUATES. 67 
 
 and latterly, the late X/ord Lyttoii, who was novelist, 
 poet, statesman, and dramatist, all combined. 
 
 This noted list may still, be further extended by 
 adding the names of Tillotson, Archbishop of Can- 
 terbury, Bishop Jeremy Taylor, Dr. Isaac Barrow, 
 Harvey, who discovered the circulation of the blood, 
 Oliver Cromwell, the regicide, Milton, Lawrence, 
 Sterne, Coleridge, Wordsworth, Dryden, Byron, Ten- 
 nyson, Lord Bacon, the author of the inductive system 
 of philosophy, " Eare Ben Jonson," and hosts of 
 lesser lights might be added to the list, but these wnll 
 suflSce to give the reader some idea of what this En- 
 glish University has done towards furnishing the world 
 with intellectual giants. We left this grand old uni- 
 versity town, hallowed by its many reminiscences and 
 associations with much that is great, and much that is 
 mean and ignoble, with some regret, in spite of what 
 lay before us, as yet, totally unexplored and unknown, 
 in the great metropolis, and as our train sped onward 
 towards London, I could scarcely realize that I was 
 upon the point of entering the largest, and, to me, de- 
 cidedly, if not to most Americans, perhaps, the most 
 interesting of all the world's capitals. At last, we 
 reached its suburbs, and, after traveling for miles and 
 miles, it seemed to me, our train ran into the Euston 
 Eoad Station, in the fashionable West End of London, 
 adjoining which, is the magnificent Midland Grand 
 Hotel, which was to be the abode of most of the party, 
 during our stay in the great city. 
 
 Our apartments had been assigned us, previous to 
 
68 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 our arrival, and I found myself nicely located in a 
 comfortable room on the first floor of the hotel, which 
 commanded a fine view of the Euston Koad, and the 
 immense traffic of vehicles, omnibuses, Hansom cabs, 
 etc., of which there are more than 25,000 of all kinds 
 licensed and running through the London streets ; but I 
 did not remain there very long, for my time was too 
 short to lose a moment of it, if it could be possibly uti- 
 lized in sight seeing. As soon as I had refreshed my- 
 self, by getting some of the dust of travel from me, I at 
 once mounted a London 'bus, from the top of which, by 
 the way, is the best place to be found to see the sights in 
 London streets, and started for Hyde Park, and Kotten 
 Kow, in the extreme West End, which was several 
 miles further west than the Midland Grand Hotel, as I 
 was anxious to see that famous resort of fashion, beauty 
 and intellect, although it was rather late in the season, 
 it being then about the last week in July. I had 
 hardly seated myself on top of the 'bus, before I found 
 out that my next neighbor was a young man from 
 Boston, and I felt at home right away. 
 
 It was a ride of several miles, and something like an 
 hour's time from the Midland Grand to Hyde Park, and 
 as we rode along, I thought to myself, that I had never 
 seen anything like such a turmoil and confusion in Broad- 
 way, New York, which, until then, Ihad been in the habit 
 of considering a pretty lively thoroughfare, and which, 
 during a residence of several years in the East, I had 
 often traversed. Although it was rather late for " so- 
 ciety people to be in town," yet the streets were 
 
IN LONDON. 69 
 
 crowded, all the same, with all manner of vehicles 
 known to the civilized world, and the pavements 
 thronged with thousands of well dressed and joyous 
 looking pedestrians, for it was a lovely July afternoon, 
 and the scene was one not easily forgotten. To parody 
 Tennyson's Brook, "Society may come, and society 
 may go, but we (the people) go on forever," 
 
 We passed through Regent Street, the leading thor- 
 oughfare of London, with its hundreds of magnificent 
 stores, the handsomest in the world, through Oxford 
 Street, which is almost equal in attractions, and in 
 splendor, to its more aristocratic neighbor, on through 
 Pall Mall, or " Pell Mell," as the Londoners call it, 
 then on down Piccadilly, past the town house of the 
 Duke of Wellington, with its iron shutters, which 
 barely protected the great man's life from the mob, at 
 one period of his history, when Waterloo was well nigh 
 forgotten, by reason of his oppression of the people, 
 then, on, past the residence of the Duke of Devonshiie, 
 then, past, the residence of the noted Baroness Burdett- 
 Coutts, who relinquished such a large portion of her 
 income in order to marry the young American Bart- 
 lett, then past the monstrosity known as the Eques- 
 trian Statue of the Duke of Wellington, which 
 eyesore to the aesthetic has since been removed, 
 and, at last, and before we hardly know it, 
 so much has our pilgrimage interested us, we dismount 
 from the 'bus, and find ourselves at the grand entrance 
 to Hyde Park. My American friend did not ride very 
 far with me, however, and after he had left me, I com- 
 
70 A KNIGHT TExAIPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 menced a little social chat with a very gentlemanly 
 looking person who sat near me, and who, soon dis- 
 covering that I was an American, and like the balance 
 of the universal Yankee nation, " wanted to know, you 
 know," and, in fact, had come expressly for that very 
 purpose, became very communicative, and gave me a 
 good many points, and items of interest. I will here 
 state that, in connection with this kindly English gen- 
 tleman, I met with a most singular coincidence. A few 
 weeks later, upon my return from the Continent, 
 whither I went, a few days, after, from London, I 
 again took my old perch on a city 'bus, on my way to 
 Hyde Park, for a farewell look at the remnants of 
 beauty and fashion, when lo, and behold, whom should 
 I meet but the self-same individual, with whoifi I had 
 conversed, under exactly the same circumstances, only 
 a short time before. I can but regard this as a most 
 marvelous coincidence, when you remember that Lon- 
 don has nearly 5,000,000 inhabitants, and, as I said 
 before, runs more than 25,000 public vehicles for the 
 transportation of passengers, to say nothing of the 
 countless thousands of "turnouts," owned by the 
 nobility, and the rich gentry, of the city of London. 
 
 I entered the park at the well known Hyde Park 
 corner, where the east end of Rotten Row begins, and 
 found a great many carriages on the drive, and quite a 
 number of riders in the Row, although I suppose the dis- 
 play was, no doubt, very tame compared with what 
 might have been seen a few weeks earlier. When I 
 returned from the Continent, a few weeks afterwards. 
 
HYDE PARK. 71 
 
 and revisited the park, I could hardly find a corporal's 
 guard of riders, or drivers, anywhere. So mighty a 
 mistress is Fashion, that " every body, who is any 
 body," needs must obey her every behest, no matter 
 how imperious, or unreasonable. I heard that the Prin- 
 cess of Wales was driving in the park, and I waited, 
 with some impatience, in hopes of seeing her, and, 
 finally, I was rewarded, for after a while she came rid- 
 ing by in a royal equipage, accompanied by her three 
 lovely young daughters, and by a gentleman, who was 
 not the Prince, however, as I was informed. Ordina- 
 rily, when any of the Eoyal Family ride in the park, the 
 equipage is preceded by two mounted policemen, who 
 clear the way, but at the end of the season, when the 
 park is not much thronged, this precaution is not ob- 
 served, and I would not, perhaps, have known that Roy- 
 alty was approaching, had I not seen so many gentlemen 
 with their heads uncovered, as the Royal Family 
 approached, and as I thought I could afford " to do, as 
 Rome did," I took off my hat to the Princess, too. I, 
 also, saw the great Prime Minister of England, the 
 Right Honorable W. E. Gladstone, and his wife, and a 
 few other notabilities, but those above mentioned, were 
 the most prominent. 
 
 I noticed that all the horses in Rotten Row, which is 
 exclusively used by the equestrians, had their tails cut 
 very short, and thus the lower animals, as well as man, 
 often su-ffer from the cruel edicts of fashion. This 
 park covers an area of about 400 acres, and in the 
 height of a London season, is one of the most fre- 
 
72 A KNIGHT TEMPLAE ABROAD 
 
 quented, and liveliest scenes to be found in London. 
 There is a fine sheet of water in the park, called the 
 Serpentine, which is a great resort for skaters in the 
 winter season, and, on its banks, are to be found a corps 
 of life-savers, with all their apparatus, to be used in 
 case of emergency. Here, also, is to be seen a colos- 
 sal statue, which is called the Statue of Achilles, which 
 was erected 7 years after "Waterloo, by money sub- 
 scribed by English ladies, in honor of "Arthur, Duke 
 of Wellington, and his brave companions in arms." 
 The statue is bronze, and is made from cannon, taken 
 from the French in France, and Spain, and at Water- 
 loo. The name " Eotten Kow," although it sounds 
 rather unsavory, to be so extremely a fashionable place 
 of resort, by the high and mighty, is said to be derived 
 from the phrase. Route de lioi, or the '* King's High- 
 way," which has probably been corrupted into its 
 present version of Rotten Row, in modern times. 
 The favorite hour for equestrians in the Row is from 
 12 to 2, but they may be often seen there from 5 to 7, 
 which is the hour for fashionables to drive through the 
 park, so, I staid there too late to get back to the hotel 
 in time to dine, and get ready to attend some one of 
 the numerous theaters of London. In fact, our party 
 had already dined, and scattered out in various direc- 
 tions, before I returned, so I concluded I would saunter 
 around to Baker Street, and see the world-famous 
 museum of Madam Tussaud, in comparison with whose 
 interesting display, *' Mrs. Jarley's Waxworks " or, in 
 fact, any body's else, ^ are, indeed, not to be mentioned 
 
LONDON MUSEUM. 73 
 
 in the same breath. This collection is no cheap, 
 catch-penny affair, but is, in truth, one of the sights 
 of London, which no stranger in that city should fail 
 to see, if possible, as the figures are dressed with strict 
 regard to chronological accuracy, and no pains, or 
 expense, have been spared to make them look as much 
 like their originals, in appearance, and in dress, as the 
 highest artistic skill and taste, and an unlimited outlay 
 of money will admit of 
 
 It is much more expensive to visit this collec- 
 tion, than most of the " alleged " museums of 
 Europe, and this country, but when you get in 
 there, you find out that it is no " Barnum humbug, 
 and swindle," but you get more than your money's 
 worth. The general admission is one shilling, a cata- 
 logue, which is necessary to properly understand the 
 collection, will cost a six-pence more, and then an 
 additional six-pence admits you to the Chamber of 
 Horrors, so that, for two shillings, or fifty cents of 
 our money, you can see, throughout, this unsurpassed 
 exhibition of historic characters, which is unlike any 
 other collection of the kind in the world, as it is, in 
 fact, the oldest, having been opened in the Palais 
 Eoyal, Paris, in 1772, and in London, in 1802. To 
 show that Royalty itself has not disdained to visit this 
 place of amusement, the sons of Madam Tussaud, who 
 inherited the collection, name among their patrons, on 
 the backs of their ofiicial catalogues, *' The Royal 
 Family," '« Louis XVI,." " Marie Antoinette," etc. 
 
 The collection consists, at present, of more than 
 
74 A KNIGHT TEMPLAE ABEOAD. 
 
 three hundred life-size figures, arranged in appropri- 
 ate classes, in quite a number of rooms, and which is 
 being constantly added to, as persons become famous, 
 or die, either of famous, or infamous antecedents. 
 Thus, among the recent accessions, are to be seen the 
 wretch Guiteau, who assassinated President Garfield, 
 and Capt. Webb, the noted swimmer, who threw away 
 his life so recklessly in 1883, in his foolhardy at- 
 tempt to " shoot " the Whirlpool Rapids, below Niagara 
 Falls. The first distinguished person who greets you 
 upon entering, after your cane, or umbrella, as the 
 case may be, has been taken from you, to prevent 
 you, either, in your verdancy, or enthusiasm, or pos- 
 sibly, both combined, from pointing at, or injuring 
 any of the figures, is Charles Dickens, whose name is 
 as familiar as his own " Household Words," wherever 
 the English tongue is spoken or read. He is, by the 
 way, the only author of world-wide celebrity, whom the 
 writer has seen in the flesh, he having heard him, not 
 long before his death, in 1870, recite his famous Christ- 
 mas Carol, and the ludicrously-pathetic speech of Ser- 
 geant Buzfuzz to the jury, in the celebrated action for 
 damages, for breach of promise brought by one Mrs. 
 Bardell, against our benevolent old friend, Mr. Pick- 
 wick. 
 
 The writer, also, met him face to face, on Chapel 
 Street, in New Haven, on the next morning after 
 his reading, which was given on his last visit to 
 America, in March, 1869. Next, you see the pres- 
 ent King Humbert, of Italy, and his father, Victor 
 
"HALL OF KINGS." 75 
 
 Emmanuer, and, near them, the Patriot, Garibaldi. 
 The most celebrated group, however, in the museum, 
 is in the room designated as the " Hall of Kings," 
 and contains all the Sovereigns of England, from 
 William, the Conqueror, in the eleventh century, to 
 the reigning Queen Victoria, and the members of the 
 Royal Family, and the sight is truly wonderful. At 
 night, which is the best time to see the display, the 
 scene is perfectly dazzling, and one which can hardly 
 be excelled. I was especially interested in "good 
 Queen Bess," and " Bloody Mary," dressed in their 
 magnificent robes of state, all chronologically accurate, 
 in Charles I., and his executioner, Oliver Crom- 
 well, in the beautiful and unfortunate, Mary, Queen of 
 Scots, who had around her neck, the very rosary she 
 wore upon the scaffold, where she met her untimely 
 end, in Edward, the Black Prince, and Richard, of 
 the Lion's Heart, and in Louis XVI., and, his beautiful 
 Queen, Marie Antoinette, whom the bloody sans 
 cwZo^^es remorselessly butchered under the sharp edge of 
 the guillotine, but most of all, in William HI., the 
 Prince of Orange, who ascended the throne at the 
 Revolution of 1688 (the bloody and cowardly Papist 
 King, James II. having fled, ignominiously, to France), 
 and who bore upon his banner, when he landed on 
 English soil, the motto of his house, " I will main- 
 tain," and, added to it, the glorious sentence, which 
 endeared him to every English heart, " the Liberties 
 of England, and the Protestant religion." 
 
 All these historic personages, and many more, of 
 
76 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 which I have not the space, or the time to speaks, were 
 dressed, as nearly as possible, in the costume of their 
 time, the males clad in armor, just as they wore it when 
 in life; and many of these, as well as others, wore the 
 exact coats of mail, and handled the weapons of the 
 period in which they lived, and the Eoyal Family 
 especially, wore costumes which had actually been a 
 portion of their wardrobes, and which had been pur- 
 chased at great expense, from the Court Chamberlain. 
 Among others, I might mention some of the leading 
 statesmen of Europe who are to be seen there. Lord 
 Beaconsfield, Prince Bismarck, Hon. John Bright, 
 Gambetta, the great orator and statesman, the idol of 
 the French people, and scores of others of lesser note 
 in the political world. I must not omit to mention 
 the Dauphin of France, and the Princess Elizabeth, 
 afterwards, the Duchess d' Angouleme, whose fate is 
 indirectly connected, by a romantic chain, with the 
 Knights Templars of France, as the Eoyal Family were, 
 for several years, during the French Eevolution, pris- 
 oners in the Temple, in Paris, which was, in the thir- 
 teenth century, a stronghold of the Order in France. 
 
 It is said that Madam Tussaud knew the Eoyal Family 
 very intimately, and, at one time, gave the Princess 
 Elizabeth, the sister of King Louis, XVI., lessons in 
 the art of modeling in wax, and that she resided at the 
 Tuileries, and Versailles, with them, until the Eevolu- 
 tion of 1789, when she sought safety in flight to Lon- 
 don, and there located her famous collection, where it 
 has remained ever since. She is to be seen among the 
 
*'THB SLEEPING BEAUTY." 77 
 
 collection. America has a few representatives on ex- 
 hibition, but these seem to be about the poorest among 
 the lot, in appearance, and in likeness. They have 
 Lincoln, Johnson, Garfield, and Grant; but none of 
 them look like the originals, as far as I could judge 
 from the pictures I had seen of them, as Grant is the 
 only one of them whom I had ever seen in person, and 
 his counterfeit presentment was far from being accurate. 
 
 We must not omit to mention the beautiful reclining 
 figure, called the " Sleeping Beauty," whose bosom 
 rises and falls with the same unceasing regularity, as 
 though she lived, and moved, and had her being, like 
 the rest of mankind. This is done, of course, by clev- 
 erly arranged machinery. 
 
 A little old woman, said to be Madam Tussaud, is 
 seen sitting, and looking at the Sleeping Beauty, and 
 she looks so natural that, occasionally, people are seen 
 to speak to her, and their neighbors, who have, per- 
 haps, made the same blunder, enjoy their discomfiture 
 all the more. I remember that, once or twice, I came 
 very near asking some questions of a wax figure, repre- 
 senting a London policeman in full dress, but discov- 
 ered my error just in time. Another wonderful 
 deception, is that of an old man holding a programme 
 in his hand, and he is seen, occasionally, to look up 
 from the paper, and, apparently, view the group before 
 him, with as much interest as anybody. Persons are 
 often deceived into speaking to him, when, of course, 
 they find, to their surprise, that he is only a clever au- 
 tomaton, and that they are richly sold. 
 
78 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 I pass now to what was, to me, and, doubtless, to 
 many other visitors, the part of the exhibition which 
 was of the most surpassing interest by far — the Na- 
 poleon rooms, which contained many relics of the won- 
 derful man whom, from my earliest youth, I had 
 learned to look upon, almost as a demi-god, in spite of 
 the horrible calumnies circulated against him by his 
 enemies, and of whom Phillips so brilliantly remarked 
 that, *' he was wrapt in the solitude of his own original- 
 ity, and was the most extraordinary character, perhaps, 
 that in the annals of this world, ever rose, or reigned, 
 or fell, the man without a model, and without a 
 shadow!" These relics of the First Consul are un- 
 questionably genuine, and well authenticated, and to 
 procure them, involved a vast expenditure of money, 
 but the heirs of Madam Tussaud, like our own une- 
 qualed Barnum, spare neither pains, nor expense, to 
 obtain anything in their line, which is likely to 
 "draw." 
 
 The first thing of interest which your eager eyes 
 fall upon, on entering the room, is the celebrated 
 traveling-carriage of Napoleon, in which he made 
 his disastrous Eussian campaign, and which was 
 captured by the Prussians, on the fatal day of Waterloo, 
 some fifteen miles from the field of battle, and for 
 which the Prince Regent, afterwards George TV., 
 received $12,000. Only a few months before our 
 party started on their tour of Europe, the writer met a 
 gentleman, who had seen this carriage, and suggested 
 the best way of securing from it, a souvenir of the 
 
EELICS OF NAPOLEON. 79 
 
 modern Caesar. He said that the cloth of the carriage 
 seat was already much torn, and, therefore, while the 
 writer would never have dreamed of committing an act 
 of vandalism, in order to obtain the coveted relic, he 
 thought he would watch his opportunity and secure a 
 small piece of cloth from the famous traveling-carriage. 
 In order to do this, he seated himself in the former 
 seat of the great Emperor, and finding the cushion 
 torn, just as he had been told it was, he dexterously 
 removed a small piece of blue cloth ; but, alas ! for the 
 fruition of all human hopes, the coveted relic, which 
 was put carefully away in the writer's pocket-book, 
 had mysteriously disappeared by the following morn- 
 ing. 
 
 In the same room, is to be seen the very camp 
 bedstead, which the Emperor used during his seven 
 years' incarceration at St. Helena, where he " ate out 
 his proud heart," under the infamous, and brutal Sir 
 Hudson Lowe, with the same mattresses and pillows 
 on which he died, and, on the bed, lies a wax counter- 
 feit of the great Napoleon himself, in his chasseur 
 uniform, and covered with the cloak he wore at Ma- 
 rengo. You may also see his favorite garden chair, a 
 glass case, containing the counterpane used on his 
 deathbed, and yet stained with his blood, a gold re- 
 peating watch, a cameo ring, a tooth-brush, a diamond 
 found in his carriage, when it was captured by the 
 Prussians, and many other things of interest ; among 
 them, a veritable tooth of the great Emperor, extracted 
 by Dr. O'Meara, his surgeon, for several years, at St. 
 
80 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Helena, but who was compelled, by Sir Hudson Lowe's 
 ungentlemanlj treatment, and unfounded suspicions, 
 to surrender his confidential and highly-honorable 
 position, much against his will. 
 
 Literature owes to this man's pen a most interesting- 
 account of "Napoleon in Exile," audit must always be a 
 source of regret that Dr. O'Meara was not with the 
 famous prisoner, during the closing scenes of his stormy 
 and most eventful life. Many other relics might be 
 mentioned, but we will close the list, by alluding to the 
 celebrated atlas, used by the Emperor, and which con- 
 tains the plans of several battles, drawn by his own 
 hand. I left the room with deep regret, having lin- 
 gered there, almost to the very hour of closing the 
 exhibition, and hastened to the Chamber of Horrors, 
 for which, however, I cared but little; in fact, the 
 very atmosphere seemed oppressive to me, the room 
 being filled with representatives of the greatest crimi- 
 nals, and the most blood-thirsty villains of previous 
 times, so I hastened out into the purer atmosphere, as 
 soon as possible ; but I wish to mention one blood- 
 stained relic, in that uncanny room, which was, to 
 me, fraught with almost the same sad interest, as those 
 of the dead Napoleon, which I had so lately gazed 
 upon. This was nothing more, nor less, if the cata- 
 logue can be trusted, than the original and self-same 
 guillotine blade which decapitated the King, and 
 Queen of France, Charlotte Corday, who killed the in- 
 famous Marat, the soi-disant*' friend ( ?) of the people," 
 who, just before his death, had coolly published the 
 
CHAMBER OF HORRORS. 81 
 
 awful declaration, that 200,000 more heads must be 
 lopped off in France, before the success of the Kevolu- 
 tion could be assured, Madam Eoland, and hundreds 
 of others of the best, as well as the meanest and most 
 ignoble blood of France, from the gentle Martyr, 
 King Louis, XYI., to the bloody monster Robespierre, 
 the arch fiend, with whose fall, most justly " hoist 
 by his own petard," the Revolution spent its fury, and 
 the awful Reign of Terror ceased. 
 
 The victims of this single blade, are said to have 
 reached the awful number of 2,800. I placed my hand 
 upon this cruel instrument of death, and, as I did so, 
 my thoughts reverted to the awful scenes of the Revo- 
 lution, and I thought of the tremendous part in the 
 drama, which that piece of metal, now so insignificant 
 looking, had played. This knife was bought of one 
 Sanson, the grandson of the original executioner, and 
 its genuineness is said to be beyond all question. 
 
 The next morning, our party seated themselves in 
 handsome wagonettes, drawn by four horses, and drove 
 through the streets of the old city, to the Tower. It 
 was an unusually bright day, for London, as the sun 
 actually remained visible for an hour or two, and the 
 drive was most enjoyable. It must have been some- 
 thing like four or five miles, at least, from our hotel, in 
 the West End, to the Tower, but there was so much to 
 see on the way that was novel and interesting, that the 
 time passed rapidly, and, almost, before we knew it, the 
 turrets of the famous historic structure burst upon our 
 sight — a prison-house which has more tojdo with Eng- 
 
 6 
 
82 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABEOAD. 
 
 land's history (which, glorious though it be, in the 
 main, is yet darkened with many a bloody page), than 
 any other within her realms, save the grand, and 
 glorious, old Westminster Abbey. 
 
 We caught a glimpse of the principal citadel of the 
 structure, which is called the White Tower, when several 
 blocks away from it, and, truly, it made my heart 
 thrill, and my pulse rebound more quickly than was 
 its wont, when I found my self approaching the world- 
 famous Tower, which has, at different periods in its 
 history, figured as a royal residence, a prison, and a 
 fortress, and which has, more than once, valiantly 
 withstood the plots of traitors within, and foes without 
 its walls. Before visiting the place, I had read, more 
 than once, Aiusworth's historical romance, concerning 
 the Tower, and, as almost every reader naturally will, 
 had formed, from this description, some theory of the 
 place, which, as is usually the case in such mat- 
 ters, I found totally erroneous, and the structure 
 itself, wholly unlike what I had fondly imagined 
 it. The Tower, itself, is a strong fortress, with 
 walls varying in thickness from ten to fourteen feet, 
 and embraces no less than eleven different towers, 
 within its enclosure, which are designated by the foi- 
 ling names: The Bloody Tower, Bell Tower, Beau- 
 champ Tower, Devereaux Tower, Flint Tower, Bowyer 
 Tower, Brick Tower, Jewel Tower, Salt Tower, 
 Record Tower and Broad Arrow Tower. The space 
 which this large and irregular structure covers, is said 
 to be thirteen acres, and the south wall is not many 
 
LONDON TOWER. 83 
 
 feet distant from the banks of the Thames, which sep- 
 arates the city of London in two parts, somewhat in 
 the same way, as does the river Seine, the city of 
 Paris. 
 
 Almost the first thing of interest which you see, 
 after you have purchased your ticket of admission, and 
 gotten fairly within the walls, is the " Traitor's Gate," 
 which is a massive affair, of rather clumsy architecture, 
 (if you can apply such a term, to such a rude and prim- 
 itive construction) and hangs upon tremendous hinges, 
 through which, in by-gone ages, prisoners of State were 
 brought into the Tower, having been brought thither 
 by the river Thames, in order to avoid a rescue by the 
 mob in the London streets ; and in those days, doubt- 
 less, the river beat against the Tower wall, and served 
 all the purposes of a moat, for defense. Now, how- 
 ever, there is an embankment of several feet in width, 
 between the water and the Traitor's Gate, and the em- 
 bankment serves as a walk, to which, however, the 
 public generally are prohibited access, but the writer 
 walked along it, all the same, but he had to pass an 
 English sentry, and give him an account of himself, be- 
 fore he could pass through. The seven Bishops, in the 
 reign of the fanatical James II., merely, because they 
 would not order read, in the Episcopal churches, his 
 Edict of Toleration for the Dissenters, and the Cath- 
 olics, were brought through this gate, prisoners to the 
 Tower, and rigorously confined here, until their triumph- 
 ant vindication before the House of Lords, and count- 
 
84 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 less others of note, in England's history. Sir Philip 
 Sydney, Sir Thomas More, Lord Eussell, Queen Anne 
 Boleyn, the Princess Elizabeth, afterwards Queen, and 
 the three, glorious martyrs, Cranmer, Eidley and Lat- 
 imer, Jeffreys, of the Bloody Assizes, with his victim, 
 the unfortunate and unhappy Monmouth, and scores of 
 others — some grand and noble, some vile and infa- 
 mous — have passed through this historic gate, with few 
 exceptions, either to waste their lives in cheerless dun- 
 geons, or to pass out again to death, on the Bloody 
 Tower Hill. I could not refrain, while looking con- 
 templatively upon this relic of mediaeval times, from 
 thinking of the associations of misery, crime, and 
 wretchedness, by which I was then surrounded, and of 
 how many of England's foremost historic characters, 
 had stepped from the greatest heights of human gran- 
 deur and glory, to a most ignominious death on Tower 
 Hill, amid the jeers of the heartless rabble, who were 
 protected, like the sans culottes, in France, from the 
 guillotine, during the Revolution, by their very obscur- 
 ity and nothingness. The original foundation dates 
 back to Caesar's time, when the present London was 
 known, in the Latin tongue, by the name of Lundinum, 
 and one of the towers, is called by the name of Caesar's 
 Tower, to this day. The present buildings probably, 
 date only from the time of William, the Conqueror, by 
 whose command, the White Tower was built, and sev- 
 eral important fortifications were added, during the 
 time of William's two sons, William Eufus, and Hen- 
 ry I. 
 
JEWEL TO WEE. 85 
 
 Mr. Bailey, in his History of the Tower, mentions 
 that, " it is affirmed that the tower was built about the 
 time of Constantine, the Great," and we have, also, the 
 statement, that it was the treasury, and mint of the 
 Eomans. You see around you, curiously dressed per- 
 sons called " warders," or " beefeaters," in slang par- 
 lance, who act as guides, and lecturers, (for which 
 service they expect, of course, remuneration) whose 
 dress is said to be that of the time of Henry VHI., 
 and who are, generally, veteran soldiers, who have dis- 
 tinguished themselves, at various places, in the service 
 of their country. I noticed several of them displaying 
 decorations, which they seemed to wear with conscious 
 pride. 
 
 The first things, which visitors to the tower gen- 
 erally see, are the crown jewels of England, which 
 are kept in what is called the Jewel Tower, so named, 
 because it is the repository of the crown Jewels. The 
 royal crown is of rich purple velvet, surrounded by 
 bands of solid gold, and has, on the top, a ball and cross 
 of diamonds of immense size, and of the purest water. 
 The crown of the Prince of Wales, is plain in its neat- 
 ness, being of pure gold, and without any ornaments. 
 But, by far the grandest of all is, of course, the Queen's 
 diadem; which is, truly, a magnificent affair, and is 
 studded with immense diamonds, and pearls. This is 
 said to have been made for Mary of Modena, the consort 
 of James H., who ran away from his own kingdom to 
 France, and therby solved the problem, as to the acces- 
 sion of the Prince of Orange, which might have been 
 
86 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 a knotty one, had not James, by his cowardice, unwit- 
 tingly, aided in its solution. There is much other royal 
 paraphernalia here, the gold rods, which are carried in 
 procession, when Parliament is convened, and many 
 other things of interest, which we will not stop longer 
 to enumerate. 
 
 You next visit the White Tower, which, con- 
 tains a vast collection of arms, and armor, of which I 
 will speak of more at length, further on. While 
 ascending the steps, in order to enter the armory, our 
 attention is directed to a placard, near the stairway, 
 which announces that near this step were found the 
 remains of the two, unfortunate, little princes, who were 
 smothered to death (like Desdemona in the play ) , in the 
 Tower, by the orders of their cruel and unnatural 
 uncle, Eichard, the Hunchback, and their remains now 
 rest in the Abbey, near the Great Queen, Elizabeth. 
 The first thing you see in the White Tower, is a vast 
 collection of fire-arms, of the most approved, modern 
 patterns, perhaps, several hundred thousand of them, 
 all stacked and arranged, with the most perfect method 
 and uniformity, and bayonets, arranged in all manner 
 of curious figures, by the ingenuity of a London lock- 
 smith. Next, they conduct you to the horse armory, 
 where you see many of the Sovereigns of England, all 
 accoutred in complete armor, of the time in which they 
 lived, and their horses, also, protected by the trappings, 
 which were used, in those days of knight-errantry and 
 chivalry, for their prancing battle-chargers. 
 
 Among these, may be mentioned Edward I., Edward 
 
TOWER GREEN. 87 
 
 lY., King Henry VIII., and King James II. There 
 are, also, to be seen here very many curious implements 
 of war, dating through a period of several centuries. 
 Among the things of especial interest, which I remem- 
 ber, were a number of weapons, consisting of long 
 spears, and scythe blades fastened to long poles, used 
 by the peasants, who had joined the army of "King 
 Monmouth," when he made his futile attempt against 
 the throne of his natural uncle. King James II., who 
 sent him to the block, on Tower Hill, after his defeat 
 at Sedgemoor, in 1585. Monmouth was a natural son 
 of King Charles II. and Lucy Walters, but this did 
 not weigh anything in his favor, in the eyes of King 
 James. Another very notable figure is that of Queen 
 Elizabeth, clad in her robes of state, and proceeding on 
 horseback to St. Paul's, to return thanks to God, for 
 the escape of England, from the dreaded Spanish Ar- 
 mada, in 1588, which was destroyed by a tempest, upon 
 the very eve of its descent on England. 
 
 After leaving this Tower, we come next to a spot, which 
 is, indeed, entitled to occupy a niche in history. This is 
 known as Tower Green, and has St. Peter's Chapel, on 
 one side, Beauchamp Tower, on the other, and, on still 
 another, the White Tower, which we have just quitted. 
 On this spot, we see an inscription, which tells us, that 
 the uxorious Henry YIII. had his wife, the fair Queen 
 Anne Boleyn, beheaded here, and yet, the very next 
 day, with the blood of his innocent victim crying forth 
 from the ground against him, he wedded the Lady 
 Jane Seymour. Here, also, were put to death by his 
 
88 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABEOAD. 
 
 order, Catherine Howard, and the Countess of Salis- 
 bury, the latter, over seventy years of age ; and, here 
 Queen Mary caused to be beheaded the Lady Jane 
 Grey, whose husband. Lord Guilford Dudley, had 
 already, preceded her to the block, and whose headless 
 corpse was borne past her window, after an ignomin- 
 ious death. 
 
 There might be some palliation for the action 
 of Bloody Mary, in the case of Lady Jane Grey, 
 as she had dared to set herself up as a rival for the 
 throne, but none, whatever, can be urged to justify the 
 cruel Henry for his behavior toward his victims. There 
 is but one more tower, accessible to visitors, and that 
 is Beauchamp Tower, of which they let you see but 
 one or two rooms, so that your visit to the Tower is 
 rather unsatisfactory, after all. There are a number 
 of quaint and curious carvings on the walls of these 
 rooms, but few of them are of special interest to the 
 casual visitor, unless the following, which I will pass- 
 ingly allude to, should be so, because of its possible 
 connection with the novel " Peveril of the Peak," by 
 the " Wizard of the North." One portion of this 
 rather elaborate inscription is a representation of the 
 crucifixion, bearing the initials of its superscription, 
 and a bleeding heart ; underneath is the word * ' Pev- 
 erel." 
 
 To the right of the cross, is part of a skeleton, with 
 an illegible inscription; underneath, to the left, is a 
 shield, bearing the arms of the family of Peverel. How 
 truly does that bleeding heart appropriately typify the 
 
ST. petkr's chapel. 89 
 
 sufferings of the unhappy wretch, who, perhaps, Im- 
 gered there, for years, in hopeless misery? By giving 
 an extra shilling to the warder, a young man from 
 Boston, and the writer, were allowed to enter the sacred 
 precincts of the little chapel of St. Peter's, which con- 
 tains many dead, some as illustrious, and some as 
 infamous, perhaps, as any who lie entombed, amid the 
 splendors of Westminster. No one, I presume, will 
 object to reading, in Macaulay's glowing prose, the 
 names of some of the historic characters, who sleep in 
 this little, and unassuming sepulchre, so I quote the 
 passage, entire, from the incomparable history of En- 
 gland, where he describes the closing scenes of Mon- 
 mouth's Rebellion. 
 
 Speaking of the death of Monmouth, he says: 
 " Within four years, the pavement of that chancel 
 was, again, disturbed, and, hard by the remains 
 of Monmouth, were laid the remains of Jeffreys. 
 In truth, there is no sadder spot on earth, than 
 that little cemetery. Death is there associated, 
 not, as in Westminster Abbey, and St. Paul's, with 
 genius, and virtue, with public veneration, and with 
 imperishable renown, not, as in our humblest churches 
 and church -yards, with everything that is most endearing 
 in social, and domestic charities, but, with whatever is 
 darkest in human nature, and in human destiny ; with the 
 savage triumph of implacable enemies, w^ith the incon- 
 stancy, the ingratitude, the cowardice, of friends, with 
 all the miseries of fallen greatness, and of blighted 
 
90 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 fame. Thither have been carried, through successive 
 ages, by the rude hands of Jailors, without one mourner 
 following, the bleeding relics of men, who had been the 
 captains of armies, the leaders of parties, the oracles 
 of senates, and the ornaments of courts. 
 
 Thither, was borne, before the window where Jane was 
 praying, the mangled corpse of Guilford Dudley. Ed- 
 ward Seymour, Duke of Somerset, and Protector of the 
 Eealm, reposes there, by the brother whom he murdered. 
 There, has mouldered away the headless trunk of John 
 Fisher, Bishop of Rochester, and Cardinal of St.Vitalis, 
 a man worthy to have lived in a better age, and to 
 have died in a better cause. There, are laid John Dud- 
 ley, Duke of Northumberland, Lord High Admiral, and 
 Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, Lord High Treas- 
 urer. There, too, was another Essex, on whom 
 nature and fortune had lavished all their bounty in vain, 
 and whom valor, grace, genius, royal favor, popular 
 applause, conducted to an early, and an ignominious 
 doom. Not far off, sleep two chiefs of the great house 
 of Howard — Thomas, the fourth Duke of Norfolk, 
 and Philip, the eleventh Earl of Arundel. Here, and 
 there, among the thick graves of unquiet and aspiring 
 statesmen, lie more delicate sufferers; Margaret of 
 Salisbury, last of the proud name of Plantagenet, and 
 those two fair queens, who perished by the jealous rage 
 of Henry." 
 
LONDON CONTINUED. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 91 
 
 LONDON CONTINUED 
 
 tHE next place of interest to which we wend our 
 way, is the famous St. Paul's Cathedral, which 
 is the most prominent building in London, and is situ- 
 ated in that part, which is technically known, as *' the 
 city ; " which is near the commercial center of London, 
 and is a lasting monument to the genius of Sir Chris- 
 topher Wren, that glorious architect, and grand old 
 "Free and Accepted Mason." This church is re- 
 markable in this, that, though it was thirty-five years 
 in course of construction, having been begun in 1675, 
 and finished in 1710, during the entire period, while it 
 was being built, it was under the supervision of one 
 architect. Sir Christopher Wren, one Master Mason, 
 Thomas Strong, and one Bishop, Dr. Compton, It cost, 
 almost, $4,000,000, and was built, mainly, by a tax 
 on coals. Architects did not, it seems, command very 
 high salaries in those days, for Sir Christopher Wren 
 received only about $1,000 a year, for superintending its 
 entire construction. 
 
 It is the third largest ecclesiastical edifice in 
 Europe, being surpassed only, by St. Peter's, at 
 Rome, and the Cathedral, at Milan. It has the larg- 
 est dome in the world, and this reaches to the height 
 
92 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 of 363 feet, and is of the enormous diameter of 180 
 feet, and, to the top of the cross, which surmounts the 
 entire structure, is 44 feet more, which makes the 
 cathedral tower reach the extreme height of 404 feet, 
 above the pavement. The church is built in the form of 
 the Latin cross, and the nave (that is to say, the extreme 
 length) is 500 feet, and the breadth 118 feet, while the 
 transept (that is to say, the part which forms the cross 
 piece, as it were) is just half the extreme length, 250 
 feet, which gives the cathedral the most exquisite pro- 
 portions. It may interest the Masonic fraternity to 
 know, that the corner-stone of this noble structure, was 
 laid with Masonic ceremonies, and the London Lodge, 
 whose members officiated on that occasion, I am told, 
 yet, preserve the Trowel and Mallet, which were used at 
 the time, among their archives, and Masonic souvenirs. 
 There are, probably, 50 or 60 fine monuments to be 
 seen in St. Paul's, chiefly, of England's naval, and 
 military heroes, many of them, very elaborate, and 
 costly pieces of statuary. Immediately, upon enter- 
 ing the Cathedral, you find yourself surrounded, on 
 every hand, by the statues, erected by a grateful people, 
 to the heroes, whose fame has penetrated, even, to the 
 uttermost ends of the earth; and almost the first which 
 attracts your attention is, that to the valiant warrior, 
 who fell at Waterloo, Gen. Sir WiUiam Ponsonby, 
 whose horse was killed under him, on that eventful day,, 
 and which left him to the tender mercies of the 
 French. This piece of statuary represents Ponsonby, 
 almost in a state of nudity, slipping from his horse. 
 
ST. Paul's cathedral. 93 
 
 and a female figure, personating Victory, holding out 
 to him a crown; also, one to Gen. Sir John Moore, 
 who fell at Corunna, in Spain, during the war with 
 Napoleon, and who was buried at midnight, according 
 to the poem, with which every school boy is familiar, 
 beginning — 
 
 "Not a drum was heard, not a funeral note, 
 As his corse to the rampart we hurried." 
 
 He is represented, as being interred by the figures of 
 Valor, and Victory, and Spain erects the standard over 
 the dead warrior's head. Dr. Samuel Johnson, the 
 great lexicographer, is represented with a scroll in his 
 hand, and in an attitude, indicating the profoundest 
 meditation. John Howard, the celebrated philan- 
 thropist, has, also, a statue, which represents him 
 as clad in the Eoman toga, with a key in one hand, and 
 a scroll in the other. He is represented as entering a 
 prison, and, as was his wont, bringing food and cloth- 
 ing to the unhappy inmates. Truly, as I gazed upon 
 the statue of this grand Christian hero, in the midst of 
 England's military chieftains, I recalled the noble work, 
 which had caused John Howard's name to be spoken 
 with reverence, throughout the length and breadth of 
 Christendom ; and I felt the full force of the saying 
 that, " Peace hath her victories, not less renowned than 
 War." . The crowning glory, however, of St. Paul's, is 
 the monument to Lord Nelson, "^by Flaxman, which is 
 most imposing, and, is, truly, a noble work of art. Nel- 
 son is represented with a cloak, concealing the loss of 
 
94 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 his right arm, which he suffered at Cadiz, and he leans 
 upon an anchor, supported on a cable, which is coiled 
 up. The cornice bears the names of his three great vic- 
 tories, — Copenhagen, the Nile, and Trafalgar. The 
 pedestal is embellished with figures, in bas-relief, repre- 
 senting the German Ocean, the Baltic Sea, the Nile, and 
 the Mediterranean, the gallant Nelson having valiantly 
 sustained the honor of the English flag, in all these 
 waters. At the foot, crouches the British Lion, and 
 there is, also, a female figure, impersonating Britannia, 
 and, who seems to be inciting a group of young sailors 
 to emulate the great admiral's glorious example. 
 
 It is said that, at the battle of the Nile, Nelson ex- 
 claimed " Either victory or Westminster Abbey," thus 
 showinghis appreciation of the glory of having his ashes 
 mino-led with those of England's most illustrious 
 dead ; but, nevertheless, he found his resting place in 
 the crypts of St. Paul, where he lies, amid a most 
 goodly company, of which, however, more anon. Of 
 special interest to Americans, I imagine, are the mon- 
 uments to Gen. Ross, who, in the war of 1812, burned 
 the Capitol, at Washington, besides committing other 
 acts of vandalism, but, who was afterwards killed, at 
 the battle of Bladensburg ; and to the Generals, Pack- 
 enham and Gibbs, who fell at the glorious victory of 
 New Orleans, where General Jackson put 2,000 Brit- 
 ish Jiors de combat, with the unparalleled loss of 
 eight killed and seven wounded, considering the Brit- 
 ish loss and the magnitude of his unexampled vie-' 
 tory ; but, from the boastful inscriptions on these 
 
NOTED MONUMENTS. ^ 95 
 
 monuments, if you did not know better, you might 
 be led to believe, that these men had been the very 
 embodiment of all that is chivalrous and gallant. 
 
 Among others, of note, are the monument commemo- 
 rating the achievements of Lord Collingwood, who was 
 Vice-Admiral, under Lord Nelson, at Trafalgar, where 
 the naval power of France was utterly destroyed, and 
 driven from the seas, and the threatened invasion of 
 England, by Napoleon, forever frustrated, and on whom 
 the chief command devolved, after the death of Nelson ; 
 the one to Sir Ealph Abercrombie, who fell in Egypt, 
 in 1801; to Henry Hallam, the historian of the Middle 
 Ages ; to Lord Cornwallis, whose surrender, at 
 Yorktown, virtually ended our war for independence*; 
 to Sir Joshua Eeynolds, whose epitaph, most justly 
 describes him, as the " prince of the painters of his 
 age ; " to Gen. Lord Heathfield, who, in the last cen- 
 tury, so gloriously defended Gibraltar, during the noted 
 three year's siege, by the combined fleets and armies of 
 Spain, and which resulted in their final discomfiture ; to 
 Sir Astley Cooper, the great surgeon, and many others, 
 who might be mentioned, but these are, perhaps, among 
 the most noteworthy. 
 
 The " Iron Duke," Lord Wellington, has here, a 
 noble monument, being represented, as reposing on a 
 lofty sarcophagus, overshadowed by a canopy of mar- 
 ble, which is supported by twelve handsome columns 
 of Corinthian marble. Above, is a colossal group 
 which represents *' Valor overcoming Cowardice." 
 Wellington and Nelson, the two great ideal warriors of 
 
96 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 England, the one, in military, and the other, in naval 
 achievements, are both buried in the " crypts " of St. 
 Paul. By this term, is meant the subterranean por- 
 tions of the cathedral, which contain the immense pil- 
 lars, forty feet square, which are needed, to support the 
 vast weight of the mighty dome of the cathedral, the 
 statuary, etc. ; and, directly beneath the center of the 
 dome, is the sarcophagus of Lord Nelson, of black 
 marble, and which bears the simple inscription, " Ho- 
 ratio, Viscount Nelson ; " while, not far oif, as is fitting, 
 reposes Lord Collingwood who, as said above, was 
 Nelson's Vice-Admiral, at Trafalgar. The sarcophagus 
 of Wellington, consisting of a huge block of porphyry, 
 resting on a base of granite, is at the left hand of the 
 crypts, and lit with gas from four polished candelabra ; 
 and near it, also, is the sarcophagus of Gen. Picton, 
 who fell, shot through the head, while leading the 
 charge on the bloody day of Waterloo ; and equally 
 fitting is it that he, too, who " rushed into the field and 
 foremost, fighting, fell," should " sleep the last sleep " 
 near the Iron Duke, who was his commander-in-chief, 
 on that historic day. In a chamber, behind the sar- 
 cophagus of Lord Nelson, is to be seen, the funeral car 
 of Wellington, just, as it was used, in 1859, at the 
 obsequies of the " Iron Duke," still hung with all its 
 sable trimmings, and rich with decorations, showing 
 the nation's grief for the illustrious dead, and which 
 was cast from guns, taken in his various victories. 
 Among other famous dead, whose ashes repose near 
 Wellington and Nelson, may be mentioned the painters, 
 
SHAMELESS EXTORTION. 97 
 
 Sir Edwin Landseer, and Sir Benjamin West, the lat- 
 ter, an American, of Quaker parentage; and, "last, 
 but, not least," Sir Ciiristopher Wren, the architect of 
 St. Paul's, sleeps beneath the majestic structure which 
 is, itself, a noble monument to his genius. How truly 
 could he have exclaimed, when he saw the noble edifice, 
 rearing its proud spire, heavenward, exegimonumentum 
 perennius aere ! Of course, you must understand that, 
 to see these sights, in Europe, always costs something, 
 and, in St. Paul's, although you can see everything, 
 which is to be seen, in the body of the cathedral free 
 of charge, after that, you are charged so much ad- 
 mission to each place of interest. I will here give you 
 the scale of prices for St. Paul's, and will, also, state 
 here, once for all, that you are beset with the most 
 shameless extortion, from one quarter and another, 
 almost, without limit, and, without ceasing, from the 
 time you laud on the shores of Europe, until you get 
 out of their clutches, — when yon go on board ship, in 
 order to return to your native land. 
 
 If this be the case (and any tourist will tell you the 
 same thing), in churches and cathedrals, which, like re- 
 ligion, you would naturally think, would be " without 
 money and without price," you may expect to be, " lit- 
 erally fleeced," when you get beyond their sacred pre- 
 cincts ; and, indeed, you will not be disappointed. The 
 whispering gallery, and the stone, and golden galleries, 
 which are on the outside of the dome, cost sixpence; 
 ascent to the ball, one shilling, and sixpence; library, 
 geometrical staircase and large bell, sixpence, and the 
 7 
 
98 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 crypts, sixpence more, costing in all three shillings 
 English, or about seventy-five cents, American money. 
 Next, I w^ill speak of our ascent, from the body of the 
 church, to the inside of the ball, which is almost at the 
 very top of the structure, and it is, indeed, a tiresome 
 journey, but one well worth the trouble it costs, to view 
 the superb panorama of the great metropolis, stretch- 
 ing for miles in every direction, from an elevation, four 
 hundred feet above the London streets. Just 'think of 
 it, will you ? The guide book says : ' ' The ball is only 
 six hundred and sixteen steps above the tesselated 
 pavement of the church," but the view, which I ob- 
 tained from my lofty eyrie, of the stupendous labyrinth 
 so far below me, and which I shall speak of more at 
 length, presently, more than repaid me, for the exer- 
 tion and outlay, which the ascent cost me, as the day 
 was bright and sunshiny ; in fact, unusually fine, for 
 London. 
 
 After toiling up 260 steps from the pavement of the 
 church, after almost a period of infinity (as it seems to 
 the already exhausted climber) passed in clambering up 
 a narrow, and dark winding stairway ; now, and then 
 groping your way in gloom, which is rendered all the 
 denser, after passing occasional gleams of gas-light, 
 from a stray burner, here, and there, you reach the 
 celebrated whispering gallery of St. Paul's ; which, in 
 its effects, is very similar to the one, which we after- 
 wards visited, in the crypts of the Pantheon, at Paris. 
 This is a gallery, with a light fancy railing, running 
 around the inside of the base of the dome, the whole 
 
WHISPEKING GALLERY. 99 
 
 distance, which, as the dome is at the outside base, 180 
 feet in diameter, would make the inside circumference 
 of the dome, which forms the whispering gallery, 
 about 320 feet, and, here, you first get some idea of the 
 immense size of the dome, which is far above your 
 head, and is much larger, and more imposing, than the 
 dome of the capitol at Washington. You are then 
 instructed by your guide, — who is, of course, one of 
 the paid officials of the church, but who, nevertheless, 
 always expects you to grease his " itching palm " with 
 a shilling, at least, for his valuable services, in addi- 
 tion to what you have already paid to see the sights, — 
 to go about half way around the gallery, which would 
 be at a point about 108 feet across the dome, or 160 
 feet around the circle, and then apply your ear against 
 the wall of the dome. Your conductor has, meanwhile, 
 stationed himself near the entrance, and, applying his 
 mouth to the wall, he utters a gentle whisper, which is 
 reproduced in your ear, almost, in a conversational tone 
 of voice. 
 
 He, also, claps his hands, which sounds like the dis- 
 charge of a volley of small arms. The effect, how- 
 ever, is far inferior to the results witnessed in the 
 Pantheon, at Paris,- where the conductor struck the 
 wall, with a small stick, and the echo resounded in our 
 ears, like the reverberations of the loudest thunder. 
 While in the whispering gallery, your attention is 
 directed to the beautiful decorations, and frescoes, on 
 the ceiling of the dome, by the celebrated artist, Thorn- 
 
100 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 hill, and which represent various interesting events in 
 the life of the great apostle, St. Paul. This work 
 must have been attended with frightful danger, and it 
 is said that, while the frescoing of the dome was in pro- 
 gress, one of the artists, in his enthusiasm, while gazing 
 admiringly upon the creation of his own genius,, 
 stepped back, almost to the very verge of the scaflfold, 
 which was more than 300 feet above the pavement of 
 the church, and, in another moment, he would have been 
 dashed to atoms, had not a brother artist, with rare 
 presence of mind, seeing his imminent peril, dashed 
 his brush over the fresco, when the indignant painter 
 rushed forward to interfere, and was thus saved from 
 an awful death. 
 
 One hundred and eighteen steps more, and you reach 
 the stone gallery , upon the outside of the dome , and which 
 is enclosed by a stone parapet,whence it derives its name. 
 From this point, the visitor obtains his first panoramic 
 viewof the city of London, andhere,Ithink, forthe first 
 time, he begins to have even a faint conception, of the 
 immensity of this stupendous collection of houses, and 
 inhabitants, the largest in the world ; which covers an 
 area of 122 square miles, or about eleven miles on 
 each side, if the city were built in a solid square, 
 (which would make it embrace about half the area of 
 Ancient Babylon, which was fifteen miles square, but 
 which contained, within its walls, vast areas of tillable 
 land, upon which might be raised supplies for her 
 myriads of inhabitants, in case of siege), and which has 
 
VIEW FROM THE DOME. 101 
 
 7,400 streets, 728,794 houses, 1,100 churches, 7,500 
 public houses, 1,700 coffee houses, and 500 hotels and 
 inns. 
 
 Lord Cairns once said in Parliament, that " a 
 man might hop from one end of London to the other, 
 if only he might stop at the public houses," and, prob- 
 ably, he was right in his astounding assertion, for the 
 statistics show that, in this vast city, there are, annu- 
 ally, consumed 45,000,000 gallons of ale and porter, 
 2,000,000 gallons of spirits, and 8,000,000 gallons of 
 wine, to say nothing of the daily water consumption 
 of 150,000,000 gallons. Are not these statistics truly 
 startling? Whilst a ship is sailing over the ocean, her 
 path is always, of course, represented by the diame- 
 ter of a circle, of which the horizon is the circumfer- 
 ence, and I was told by the purser of the City of 
 Eome, that, on bright daj^s, the ordinary limit of 
 vision at sea was, probably, about ten miles, in every 
 direction, which would make the distance from one 
 point of the horizon to the opposite point, about twenty 
 miles. 
 
 The day, on which our party ascended to the 
 ball of St. Paul's, was bright and sunny, and I could 
 see for a considerable distance in any direction, say, 
 perhaps, for four or five miles, all around the dome ; 
 but my eyes failed to reach even the suburbs of the 
 great metropolis, and its innumerable streets, and 
 buildings faded away into nothingness, in the misty 
 sunshine, apparently, at that great distance, as a solid 
 and continuous mass of brick and mortar, as they 
 
102 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 were, at our very feet. This statement, of what the 
 glorious view seemed to unfold to our startled vision, 
 may give my readers some idea of this mammoth hive 
 of human industry, vagabondage and crime, of pau- 
 perism and of wealth, which are, alike, unlimited, for, 
 in no other city on the face of the globe, can be pre- 
 sented such a conglomeration of all the extremes of life, 
 as in this marvelous city of London. 
 
 It was from this lofty pinnacle, that I first obtained 
 a glimpse of the hoary, and weather-beaten , but, never- 
 theless, venerated, Westminster Abbey, and also of the 
 magnificent Houses of Parliament, right at the very 
 edge of the river Thames, and which Carlyle so aptly 
 described, as " that work of modern confectionery," 
 in whose august opinion, I fully concurred, upon a visit 
 which I made to them, a little later. Still higher 
 up is the golden gallery, and at the foot of the great 
 stone lantern, as it is called, which crowns the cathe- 
 dral, and sustains the weight of the huge ball, and 
 cross. 
 
 At this point, your guide calls your attention to 
 a hole in the floor, about 6 or 8 inches in diame- 
 ter, and asks you to look at the wonderful sight below 
 you. It is more than 300 feet, to the floor of the cathe- 
 dral, and the persons there, who were engaged in divine 
 worship, at the time, looked like the veriest pigmies. 
 I shall never forget the impression the sight made upon 
 me, and I, involuntarily, looked at the floor upon 
 which we were standing at the time, and wondered, if it 
 was entirely sound, and trustworthy. 
 
GEOMETEICAL STAIRCASE. 103 
 
 I will mention, here, several things worthy of remark 
 along the way which I have omitted to notice, in my 
 anxiety to transport my readers, along with me, to the top 
 of St. Paul's. The large, self-supporting staircase,wind- 
 ing around and around, until it seemed almost intermin- 
 able, is called the Geometrical Staircase, and the steps 
 hang together, like a good many healthy, able-bodied 
 people I know of, *' without any visible means of sup- 
 port," except the bottom step. As you pass, on your 
 way, to see the great bell of St. Paul's, you step, for a 
 moment, into the library of the church, which contains 
 many rare, and curious works, among its 9,000 volumes, 
 having the first book of common prayer ever printed, 
 and a set of old monastic manuscripts, which are said 
 to have been saved from the archives of the old St. 
 Paul's which, as has been said above, formerly stood 
 on the site of the present structure, when England was 
 given over to superstition and idolatry, and was a 
 Eoman Catholic country, full of convents, monasteries, 
 and cathedrals, of which there are said to have been 
 more than six hundred during those times. 
 
 The floor of this room , is a very handsome mosaic, exe- 
 cuted in wood. The bell weighs nearly 12,000 pounds, 
 and is never tolled, except when a death occurs, or a 
 burial takes place in the royal family, or in case of the 
 death of the Bishop of London, of a Lord Mayor, dying 
 in office, or in case of the death of the Dean of St. Paul's. 
 The clock is an immense affair, with a dial-plate 20 
 feet in diameter, the minute hand being ten feet in 
 length, the hour hand about six feet, and the weights. 
 
104 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 and every thing else in proportion. Now, for the con- 
 clusion of our visit to St. Paul's, and we nerve our- 
 4 selves anew, for the ascent of the ball. The place 
 which you pass through, in order to reach the ball, is 
 so narrow, that a very fleshy man could hardly get 
 through, even if he should live to get up that high, 
 which, from my experience, I am very much inclined to 
 ** doubt, as, at that time, I weighed about 185 pounds, 
 which made it with me almost a case of "fat man's 
 misery.'* 
 
 However, when you at last get up inside the ball, 
 
 ** you find that it is large enough to accommodate,. 
 at least a half dozen men, together, and, in fact, there 
 were about that many of us, inside the ball, on that oc- 
 
 ^ casion. At first, you peep out a few times, rather tim- 
 idly, as the wind which, on the pavement, four hundred 
 feet below, was only like a gentle zephyr, you find here, 
 blowing something like a Western cyclone, and you, 
 in voluntarily, wonder if the thing is altogether safe, and 
 you fervently wish yourself once more on terra firma, 
 until the manifold beauties of the scene make you for- 
 get yourself, for the time being, then you give one 
 " last, long, lingering look " around, clamber down the 
 six hundred steps, which you have mounted with such 
 fatigue, look hastily back at the heroic figures, which 
 embellish the body of the church, as you walk through, 
 and, regretfully, pass out into the church-yard of St. 
 Paul's, and back into the busy city, almost at one stride, 
 and you have left this noble mausoleum of many 
 of England's greatest celebrities, perhaps, for ever. 
 
 <k> 
 
WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 105 
 
 Next, we wended our way to Westminster Abbey, and 
 to say that I approached that ancient pile (which, with 
 its " many clustered shafts, and pointed arches," was 
 founded by King Henry III. six hundred years ago) 
 with feelings akin to awe and veneration, would not be 
 very far from the truth, and I feel, only, too painfully, 
 my entire inability to give, even the faintest idea, of its 
 grandeur and its sublimity, far less, to speak with fit- 
 ness, of its historic dead. While the grand old Abbey 
 is not nearly so imposing as St Paul's, yet, when you 
 think of what remains of human greatness, learning, 
 and wisdom (to say nothing of cruelty, tyranny, and 
 all phases of human wickedness, as well) lie here 
 '* entombed, and waiting for the resurrection morn," 
 just, as all other dead, of common mould, the glowing 
 words of Byron (although, not used by him, to describe 
 the Abbey, at all), seem not inapt, and more nearly to 
 express the feelings of a person of thought, and sensi- 
 bility, upon such an interesting and eventful occasion, 
 than any other quotation, with which I am, at present, 
 familiar : — 
 
 " Where'er we tread, 'tis haunted, holy ground; 
 
 No earth of thine is lost in vulgar mould, 
 But one vast realm of wonder spreads around, 
 
 And all the muse's tales seem fairly told, 
 Till the sense aches with gazing to behold 
 
 The scenes, our earliest dreams have dwelt upon." 
 
 The Abbey is built, as usual, in the form of the Latin 
 cross, and the following are its dimensions : It is 416 
 feet in length, from the two western towers, which are 
 
106 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 225 feet high, to Henry VII. 's Chapel, and, including 
 that famous chapel, is 530 feet in length ; the nave is 
 166 feet in length, and about 38 in breadth, and the 
 choir is 155 feet, by 38. 
 
 The chapel of Henry VII. is 104 feet in length, 
 and, about 136 in breadth. Sir Henry Cole, the author 
 of " A Hand-book for Westminster Abbey," says that, 
 the ' ' Abbey has always seemed to me the most varied 
 and grandest of our national specimens of ecclesiasti- 
 cal architecture," and the foregoing statistics, concern- 
 ing the Abbey, are obtained from his valuable, and 
 interesting work. We obtained our first view of the 
 Abbey, from the north, which is the point from which 
 the structure is generally approached by the visitor, as 
 this portion faces toward the busiest part of the city ; 
 and this is most disappointing at the first visit, as the 
 Abbey, on this side, seems very much wanting in height, 
 and majesty of proportions, for a place, so full of grand 
 historic associations, and, more particularly, as we 
 have just come from viewing the immense proportions 
 of St. Paul's. 
 
 Just before we reach Westminster we pass by 
 Parliament Square (which is directly in front of 
 the Abbey, and near the Houses of Parliament), 
 which contains the statues of Lord Palmerston, 
 Canning, Sir Eobert Peel, who justly earned the na- 
 tion's gratitude for the noble part he took in repeal- 
 ing the obnoxious Corn Laws; and, notably, a fine 
 bronze statue of the late Prime Minister, Lord Bea- 
 consfield (Disraeli), and pass, for the first time, 
 
TEMPLE OF HONOR. 107 
 
 within the portals of that famous structure, which, 
 alone, is worth the perils of an ocean voyage to see, 
 and which is the *' Walhalla," or Temple of Honor to 
 all Englishmen, whether of high or low degree. 
 
 We pass in at the north transept, and, almost, immedi- 
 ately we are dazzled, and bewildered, by the "embarrass- 
 ment of riches," of a historic kind, which is indissol- 
 ubly blended with England's history, and, so, with the 
 whole world's history as well ; and in the surroundings 
 which we behold, iu that *' dim religious light," the first 
 tribute of a nation's admiration, and love, which rivets 
 our attention, is the elaborate monument to William 
 Pitt, Earl of Chatham, who died in 1778, and who was 
 the father of William Pitt, the unrivaled Minister ; 
 whose brilliant opponent, and leader, of Opposition in 
 the House of Commons, Charles James Fox, who 
 admired Bonaparte, almost as much as Pitt detested 
 and feared him, is buried, near the younger Pitt in the 
 north aisle ; and thus, by a singular coincidence, though, 
 they were bitter enemies while in life, yet death has 
 leveled all distinctions, as usual, and, there, the two 
 most brilliant statesmen, perhaps, that England has 
 ever seen, lie, almost, side by side, mouldering into one 
 common clay, and, no doubt, it was their close proxim- 
 ity, which suggested Scott's oft quoted lines: — 
 
 ** Drop upon Fox's grave, the tear, 
 'Twill trickle to his rival's bier." 
 
 These famous dead *' sleep their last sleep," in the 
 north aisle of the nave, and, near them, lie Grattan, the 
 
108 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 famous lawyer, and that prince of orators, dramatists, 
 and wits, the incomparable Eichard Brindsley Sheridan. 
 
 The monument of the Earl of Chatham is one of the 
 most elaborate to be seen within the walls of the 
 Abbey, and for that reason I will try to give my read- 
 ers some faint conception of its grandeur. Lord 
 Chatham is represented by a life-size statue, as though 
 in the attitude of delivering an address, while at his 
 feet are seated two female figures representing Wisdom 
 and Courage ; in the center Brittania, who, according 
 to the old quotation, "rules the wave," with her tri- 
 dent, and to the right and left elaborate bas-reliefs 
 representing respectively the earth and sea. Of course, 
 many persons have memorial tablets or monuments to 
 them, in the Abbey, whose remains are not interred 
 there — sometimes even persons of distinction — and it 
 is now so filled up that interments rarely take place 
 there, and members of the Royal Family have not been 
 interred there now for more than a century, the last 
 interments of the royal family being King George II. 
 in 1760, and Queen Caroline in 1737 in the chapel of 
 Henry VII, ever since that time the interments taking 
 place in St. George's chapel at Windsor Castle. So, of 
 course, you find the tombs of no kings or queens dur- 
 ing the last century and a half in the Abbey. 
 
 In the north aisle, also, lie the remains of Lord Pal- 
 merston, George Canning, and Sir Robert Peel, spoken 
 of above, as having obtained the repeal (when intended) 
 ot the odious Corn Laws, and for which philanthropic 
 achievement he has monuments and statues innumerable, 
 
"poets' corner." 109 
 
 all over England, besides being forever enshrined in the 
 hearts of his grateful countrymen of the United King- 
 dom. Here, also, lies Lord Mansfield, " the father of 
 English law," who is represented in his judicial robes, 
 on his left hand, Justice, with her scales held up aloft, 
 and on his right hand, Wisdom, opening the book of 
 the law. Behind the bench, and above his lordship's 
 head, is inscribed Lord Mansfield's motto, " uni 
 aequus virtuti,^' with the ancient symbol of death, a 
 youth with an extinguished torch. 
 
 We next passed directly across the center of the 
 Abbey to that sacred nook, the " Poets' Corner," where 
 we find commemorated the brightest names in English 
 literature, both in poetry and prose, from the time of 
 old Geoffrey Chaucer, the father of English poetry, 
 down to our owm time, and where Americans see, 
 with unfeigned pleasure and" satisfaction, the bust 
 of our own Longfellow ; but I missed, extremely, one 
 whose incomparable poetic brilliancy and genius surely 
 merits some fitting recognition in this hallowed spot, at 
 the hands of his, apparently, unappreciative countrymen. 
 I need hardly say, I allude to the peerless Byron, but no 
 matter ; the world has fully recognized his immortal 
 genius, and when his morbid and fiery spirit took its 
 flight to that unseen world, "from whose bourne no 
 traveller returns," 
 
 "They carved not a line, they raised not a stone, 
 But left him alone in his glory," 
 
 which shall not fade away or become dim, even in the 
 lapse of ages ! 
 
110 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABEOAD. 
 
 Here, I can only mention the names of the most 
 prominent occupants of the *' Poets' Corner," as I 
 have not the materials at hand for a more extended 
 notice, than I have given above, of the various tombs 
 and statues whose names are legion. In this sacred 
 -nook, which contains the dust of the greatest 
 intellects, and the greatest factors in human progress 
 that the world has ever seen, or ever will see again, 
 undoubtedly, lie Geo. Grote, the historian of Greece; 
 David Garrick, the famous actor ; Joseph Addison, the 
 greatest prose writer of the eighteenth century, and 
 author of the Spectator ; Lord Macaulay, the elo- 
 quent Whig historian, whose graceful periods have 
 amazed the literary world; Thackeray, the keenest 
 analyst of human nature, in modern literature, except, 
 perhaps, Balzac ; Oliver Goldsmith, whose '* Yicar of 
 Wakefield" will always be a classic; and John Gay, 
 the author of the " Beggar's Opera," which is the 
 starting point of our modern opera bouffe, and who 
 wrote his own epitaph, which has been quoted time and 
 again, though, perhaps, it is a trifle irreverent, if we 
 consider by what goodly company the gay and licen- 
 tious wit is surrounded, and also that his ashes lie 
 within the portals of the most venerable and renowned 
 mausoleum, probably, to be found upon the face of 
 the globe. 
 
 " Life is a jest, and. all things show it; 
 I thought so once, but now I know it," 
 
 Here, also, lie Thompson, the poet of the seasons, 
 and Thomas Campbell, who wrote the " Pleasures of 
 
" BAED OF AVON," 111 
 
 Hope," but " th' applause, delight, the wonder of our 
 stage," the " bard of Avon, sweet Will Shakespeare " 
 is not here ; but we see a life size statue of the poet, 
 and the epitaph, as is fitting, is taken from his writ- 
 ings — 
 
 "The cloud-cappe'd towers, the gorgeous palaces, 
 The solemn temples, the great globe itself, 
 Yea, all which it inherits, shall dissolve, 
 And, like the baseless fabric of a vision 
 Leave not a wreck behind." 
 
 The time will, no doubt, come when Shakespere's 
 remains will rest in this sanctum sanctorum, where 
 they should have been interred long ere this, and surely 
 nothing but a feeling of superstition, produced by the 
 perusal of the frightful malediction which the poet 
 himself has invoked upon the devoted head of him 
 who shall dare to disturb the quiet of his last resting 
 place at Stratford, has prevented their removal to 
 Westminster Abbey long since. I give below the 
 poet's blood-curdling invocation against the would-be 
 despoiler of his tomb : — 
 
 " Good friend, for Jesus' sake, f orbeare 
 To digg the dust encloased heare ; 
 Blest be ye man yt spares these stones, 
 And cursed be he yt moves my bones." . 
 
 In this connection, it may not be without interest to 
 our readers to state that the town of Fredericksburg, 
 Virginia, has a relic which directly connects her his- 
 tory with the bard of Avon, and which, though rarely 
 seen, and utterly neglected, the British Museum, 
 
112 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 doubtless, would purchase at its weight in gold, or even 
 more, if only apprised of the bare existance of such an 
 (invaluable) relic. This relic is nothing more nor less 
 than an old slab of red standstone, which is to be seen 
 in the Masonic burial ground at that place, flat on its 
 back, under a tangle of weeds and creepers, with the 
 upper corner chipped off, and the old English lettering 
 dim, but still distinctly traceable. The inscription ex- 
 plains itself fully, and I copy it in this place : — 
 
 " Here lies the body of 
 Edwakd Heedon 
 Practitioner in Physics and Chirurgery. 
 Bom in Bedfordshire, England, in the year of our Lord, 1542. 
 
 Was Contemporary with. 
 And One of the Pall-bearers to "William Shakespere of the Avon. 
 After a brief illness. 
 His Spirit Ascended in the Year of Our Lord, 1618. 
 Aged 76." 
 
 Next, we come to the east side of the Poet's Cor- 
 ner, and there we find Matthew Prior, politician and 
 poet, Thomas, Gray, John Milton, Edmund Spenser, 
 author of the " Faerie Queen," and called the *' prince 
 of poets in his time." Ben Johnson, the friend and 
 contemporary of Shakespeare, and, on the pedestal, I 
 noticed especially the inscription, " O rare Ben John- 
 son," as it is spelled on the base (and not " Jonson," 
 as it is usually quoted), Geoffrey Chaucer, the author 
 of the *' Canterbury Tales," and John Dry den, who 
 translated Virgil, and who wrote, among many other 
 poems Annusi Mirabilis (^ov the "Wonderful Year '), 
 which commemorates the great plague and great fire 
 
FOUNDER OF THE ABBEY 113 
 
 of London, both of which notable events occurred 
 in the same year, 1666, and the latter of which ia kept 
 before the ejes of Londoners constantly by the great 
 Fire Monument which stands on Fish Street Hill, near 
 the spot where the great conflagration started. 
 
 These things we saw. without charge, but to see the 
 chapels of Westminster, of which there are nine, 
 you must have one of the church officials conduct you 
 through, which he generally does, in parties of fifteen or 
 twenty persons, each of whom pays sixpence for his 
 trouble, and for the lecture which he gives you as you 
 visit the various chapels. However, it does not take 
 very long to make up a party containing that many per- 
 sons, as the Abbey is usually so thronged with curious 
 visitors, that the services of the Vergers are almost con- 
 stantly in demand. 
 
 The oldest chapel which you visit is that of Edward 
 the Confessor, who, indeed, was the founder of the 
 Abbey, and among the tombs of note here are those 
 of Henry III., whose father was a Knight Templar, and 
 which order buried him with distinguished obsequies. 
 Eleanor, the wife of Edward L, Queen Philippa, 
 the wife of Edward HI., and noted as beins: the 
 mother of fourteen children, one of them born the 
 Prince of Wales, but better known as the illustrous 
 " Black Prince," whose achievements in arms have 
 given him an enviable place in history, but who, 
 broken down by his many arduous campaigns, died 
 before his father, in 1376, the latter dying in 1377, 
 and, as being related to no less than thirtv crowned 
 
114 A KNIGHT TEMPLAE ABROAD. 
 
 heads, and King Kichard II., who was murdered on St. 
 Valentine's Day, 1399. Here you also see the ancient 
 coronation chair of the Scottish Kings, and the chair 
 made expressly for the coronation of the Prince of 
 Orange (William III.), after the Revolution of 1688, 
 and his wife. Queen Mary, so that both might occupy 
 the Coronation Chair, and be crowned at the same 
 time, upon which condition, only, "William consented 
 to accept the throne of England, he being unwilling 
 to fill any other relation to his wife. Queen Mary, 
 than that of being crowned and reigning on equal terms 
 with her. 
 
 The finest and largest chapel of the Abbey is that of 
 King Henry VII., and here lie King Henry himself, 
 *' Bloody Mary," and "Good Queen Bess." Here, 
 also, may be seen a monument to the unfortunate 
 Mary, Queen of Scots, who was first interred at 
 Peterboro, after her death on the scaffold at Fother- 
 ingay Castle, in 1587, but whose remains were after- 
 wards removed to Westminster, and near her is the 
 tomb of Charles II., the " Merrye Monarch," with 
 General Monk, who was the chief instrument in his 
 restoration to the throne of his father in 1660, and who 
 is seen as though standing guard over his tomb, which 
 is a very pretty conceit, I think. 
 
 Near the great Queen Elizabeth, rest the bones of the 
 two little princes who were smothered in the Tower by the 
 connivance of their cruel uncle Richard, the Hunchback. 
 It would, however, take a large volume to describe 
 half way the glories of the Abbey, and its countless 
 
*'OLD PARR." 115 
 
 historic dead, and I will not weary you much longer 
 with details; but there are several things yet which I 
 wish to speak of. One tombstone, I especially desire 
 to mention, and it is located in the south transept near 
 the tomb of Chas. Dickens. This is the tomb of " old 
 Parr," as he is called in England to this day, and the 
 following is the inscription on his tomb, which is prob- 
 ably without a parallel in what is known as *' grave- 
 yard literature." "Thomas Parr, of ye county of 
 Sallop, born in A. D. 1483. He lived in the reigns of 
 nine princes, viz.: King Edward IV., King Edward 
 v., King Edward VT., King Henry VH., King Henry 
 VHI., Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth, King James, 
 and King Charles; aged 152 years, and was buried 
 here November 15, 1635." 
 
 What vicissitudes of history did not that man of 
 such longevity, (who, most marvelous of all, lived 
 in three successive centuries, the fifteenth, sixteenth 
 and seventeenth, during the Middle Ages ; something 
 which no other man except himself has ever done most 
 likely since the days of the Patriarchs,) behold during 
 these nine eventful reigns, during which some of 
 the most momentous events of England's history took 
 place? I will mention but two more tombs in the 
 Abbey, and then pass out from its sacred portals once 
 more, into the sunshine to meditate, at some future 
 time, upon the glories I have so lately quitted. 
 
 Near the chapel of Edward the Confessor, is the 
 ancient monument of the Knight Templar, " Edward 
 
116 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Crouchback," the second son of Henry III. , from whom 
 the house of Lancaster derived its claim to the English 
 throne, and the claims of whose rival, the House of York, 
 led to the bloody " Wars of the Eoses." On the sar- 
 cophagus are remains of the figures of the ten Knights 
 who accompanied Edward to the Holy Land, and near 
 by is the monument of another Knight Templar, Aymer 
 de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, who was assassinated 
 in France in 1327. Near these monuments is one to 
 Gen. Wolfe, who fell at the capture of Quebec, and of 
 whom it is said that while floating down the St. Law- 
 rence, on his way to surprise that important strong- 
 hold of the French in Canada, as though he had some 
 premonition of his approaching end, he quoted the fol- 
 lowing couplet from Gray's Elegy : — 
 
 "The boast of heraldry, the pomp of power, 
 And all that beauty, all that wealth e'er gave,' 
 Await, alike, the inevitable hour; 
 The path of glory leads but to the grave." 
 
 That evening, I was extremely desirous of seeing 
 the celebrated actor Mr. Henry Irving, of whom I had 
 heard so much, already, in America, and, also, to see 
 his gifted, leading lady, Miss Ellen Terry, at the well 
 known Lyceum Theater, in London ; but the house not 
 being very large, and at the same time, tickets being 
 almost unp recede iitedly high, and besides that, having 
 been advised that there was standing room only to be 
 had that evening, I concluded I would have to curb my 
 enthusiasm, and wait till I see 'em in America, so I went 
 
SAVOY THEATER. 117 
 
 to the Savoy Theater, in the Strand, instead. (By the 
 way, a patent on this pun has already been applied 
 for, and no infringement will be allowed, under any 
 circumstances, whatever, and, therefore, we fondly 
 trust that none will be attempted). There, I saw the 
 charming opera of *' lolanthe," bj Gilbert and Sullivan 
 (the latter since Knighted, and made Sir. Arthur Sul- 
 livan), and aside from its charming music, and pretty 
 costumes, I was highly diverted, if not edified, by 
 seeing the supposed Lord Chancellor of England, 
 dressed in his high official robes, and masquerading 
 on the comic stage. 
 
 I had already seen the genuine barristers, in their 
 wigs, and gowns, at York, at the Criminal Assizes, and 
 was, especially, pleased to have an opportunity of 
 forming: some idea of how the Lord Chancellor of En- 
 gland would look upon the veritable wool-sack, and, 
 here, I saw his exact facsimile^ although, in rather a 
 new, and unusual role. It took a strong effort of the 
 imagination for me, even, to think of a haughty, and 
 dignified Lord Chancellor of England, " cutting pigeon 
 wings" on the opera stage, and making love to his own 
 ward in chancery, for which, as he said, himself, he 
 was liable to be fined heavily, for contempt of his 
 own court, and how to obtain his own consent, to 
 marry his own ward, was one of the trouble she had to 
 contend with, and I think that it was this absurd 
 incongruity, which amused the audience, more than 
 the witticisms of his soi-disant lordship, and his absurd 
 
118 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD 
 
 antics on the stage, seemed far removed, indeed, from 
 the staid demeanor, which we would naturally look 
 for, in a genuine Lord Chancellor. 
 
 One of the leading parts, on that evening, was sus- 
 tained by Miss Fortesque, a charming actress, who 
 was said, at the time, to be engaged to a real live 
 English lord, Lord Garmoyle, and the society papers 
 were all on the qui vive, in regard to this juicy morceau 
 of news. Since my return to America, I have seen 
 the sequel to this love affair, in the shape of a heavy 
 suit for breach of promise, in which the noble lord 
 was mulcted, in a compromise, for the immense sum 
 of $50,000 damages ; a pretty heavy price for the 
 fickle fancy of an opei'a houffe actress, but Lord Gar- 
 moyle is not the first lord "Very Soft" (nor will he 
 be the last one, either), who "has paid very dear for 
 his whistle." 
 
 It is said, that this is the largest verdict, that was 
 ever rendered in the British Isles, in a case of breach 
 of promise, and an amusing discovery has been made, 
 since the trial, in regard to the well conceived, touching 
 and highly edifying letters, which were written by the 
 fair plaintiff, Miss Fortesque, to the defendant, Lord 
 Garmoyle, and which were much commended, by his 
 lordship from the Bench, were taken verbatim^ et lit- 
 eratim^ et spellatim, et punctuatim, from somebody's 
 "Complete Letter Writer." By the way, the great 
 ^^ mulcted^' is now in this country. I was much sur- 
 prised, to find that I had to pay a penny for the pro- 
 
THE PEOGRAMME. 119 
 
 gramme of the evening's performance, and I thought 
 how different were the ideas of the dull, and heavy 
 Britons, in regard to business push, and enterprise, 
 from us, their descendants, over here, in America, in 
 regard to such things. 
 
 The programme contained no advertisements, what- 
 ever, as ours do, but was simply a bill of the play, for 
 which the enterprising manager charged about two 
 cents. 
 
 The next day, about twenty of the original party, 
 which had set out from New York were to start 
 for the Continent, by the morning express, from Char- 
 ing Cross Station to Folkestone, at which point we had 
 arranged to embark for Boulogne, which is what is 
 known as the middle route across the English Channel, 
 the shortest route being that from Dover to Calais, 
 and the longest that from Newhaven to Dieppe, so I 
 will postpone any further description of London until 
 my return from the Continent, when I shall make a 
 more protracted stay, and then will resume the narra- 
 tive of the sights of London so, for the present, we 
 will bid adieu to murky, gloomy London, and hie us 
 away as fast as steam can carry us to the gay and 
 brilliant French metropolis. 
 
120 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 FEOM LONDON TO PAKIS. 
 
 JfTN accordance with the arrangements of Sir E. M. 
 
 3L Jenkins, our pilgrims being considered by him too 
 numerous to travel in one party on the Continent, the 
 larger portion were to leave London the same night 
 for the Continent, via Harwich and the North Sea, 
 and travel in the reverse order of our projected route, 
 they ascending the Rhine, and we descending that no- 
 ble and historic stream ; and our programme included 
 a reunion of our entire party at Interlaken, the 
 <' Swiss Saratoga," which was carried out to the letter, 
 and will be adverted to more at length when that in- 
 teresting Mecca for European pilgrims, as well as Pil- 
 grim Templars, is reached in the due course of travel. 
 The next morning about nine o'clock, we proceeded 
 to the Charing Cross Station, which is unusually fine 
 and imposing, and has also an elegant hotel, which is 
 known as the Charing Cross Hotel, connected with it; 
 and at this station, we entered our railway carriages 
 for our trip to Folkestone, and thence to the fascinat- 
 ing and dangerous Paris, the 8ans Souci of the uni- 
 verse, if any in truth there be. In front of the 
 station stands a magnificent Gothic monument, which 
 is a copy of "Eleanor's Cross," which was erected. 
 
CHARING CROSS. 121 
 
 in 1291, by Edward I. at Charing Cross to commemo- 
 rate the spot where the coffin of his queen was set down 
 on its last halt on the way to Westminster Abbey. 
 
 The original was taken down by order of the Rump 
 Parliament in 1647, which two years later beheaded 
 King Charles I. Before our train pulled out of the 
 station I sauntered along the platform and took a 
 look at the engine which was to draw our train, 
 and although the rain was falling quite fast, I noticed 
 that there was no cab whatever, for the "driver" 
 and " stoker," as the English term our more familar 
 engineer and fireman, and there they stood in the 
 rain enveloped in big gum coats, or " Mackintoshes," 
 as they call them, with not the least protection from 
 the weather, as well as none for the delicate machinery 
 of the locomotive, which is so well protected by our 
 railway cabs. At last the train steamed away, and we 
 soon crossed the Charing Cross Railway Bridge over the 
 Thames, and we were on our way to la belle France. 
 
 The distance from London to Paris is something 
 like two hundred and eighty-three miles, and count- 
 ing the time consumed in crossing the channel at 
 an average of an hour and a half to an hour and 
 three-quarters, takes fr()m ten to eleven hours. The 
 ride from London to Folkestone was accomplished in 
 a couple of hours, and our train backed us around 
 right down to the pier, where we took the packet boat 
 for France, and while she was taking on board her 
 usual quota of passengers, with all their luggage et id 
 genus omne, I spent my time in looking at the high 
 
122 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 chalky cliffs of perfidious Albion, of which Macaulay 
 speaks, when describing the passage through the Strait 
 of Dover of the fleet which was bringing back Charles 
 II., in 1660 (when he says the chalky cliffs of Dover 
 were covered with thousands weeping with joy, at the 
 restoration of " Prince Charlie from over the sea"), 
 and in listening to the musical murmurs of the French 
 language, heard for the first time in all its mellifluence 
 from the lips of a number of our fellow passengers, 
 and then, I first really felt that I was, or rather, soon 
 would be, a " stranger in a strange land." 
 
 True, I was myself of Huguenot extraction, and had 
 some acquaintance with standard French literature, 
 and could translate the language fairly well, but the 
 French of Paris, and the patois which is taught in 
 American boarding schools and colleges are as wide 
 apart, almost, as the poles. During my travels on the 
 Continent, when forced by dire necessity, I made a few 
 blind staggers at speaking French without the accent^ 
 but my success was not the most flattering in the 
 world, as you may well imagine, and reminded me 
 very forcibly of a lively anecdote which Charles Lever 
 relates in the " Confessions of Con. Cregan," and as it 
 fitted my case pretty well, I will here quote it for the 
 edification of the students of American French. 
 
 Lever says that " a certain Tipperary gentleman 
 once called upon a countryman in Paris, and after 
 ringing stoutly at the bell, the door was opened by a 
 very smartly dressed ' maid,' whose grisette cap and 
 apron seemed to pronounce her to be French, ' Est-ce- 
 
CROSSING THE CHANNEL. 123 
 
 Oapitaine-est-ce — Monsieur 0' Shea, icif asked he 
 in considerable hesitation. 
 
 " 'Ah, sir, you're English ! ' exclaimed the maid in 
 a very London accent. 
 
 "'Yis, my little darlint,' I was askin' for Capt. 
 O'Shea.' 
 
 " 'Ah, sir, you're Irish,' said she, with a very sig- 
 nificant fall of the voice. 
 
 " ' So,' as he afterwards remarked, ' my French 
 showed that I was English, and my English that I was 
 Irish: " 
 
 The most of our party, unfortunately, like our Irish 
 friend just alluded to, had neglected Tom Hood's cap- 
 ital advice, 
 
 " Never go to France, unless you know the lingo ; 
 If you do, like me, you'll repent, by jingo! " 
 
 and I suspect that most of us sincerely regretted our 
 shortcomings in that direction. 
 
 We had all had our misgivings about the channel's 
 being very rough, but on the contrary we were agree- 
 ably surprised to find that it was a glorious, sunshiny 
 morning, and we crossed over in about an hour and a 
 half, the distance being about twenty-five miles ; and 
 very much to our satisfaction our party had very little 
 use for the bowls which lay around the cabin in the 
 greatest profusion, and which were unpleasantly sug- 
 gestive; nevertheless, here and there we noticed some 
 one prostrated with the mat du mer, of which we had 
 already had our share on the broad Atlantic, and paying 
 
124 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 tribute, at occasional intervals, to Father Neptune. 
 Our steamer was a very fine and fast sidewheeler, 
 and we went across with dispatch, and the coast of 
 England had barely faded away before we began to 
 distinguish afar off the outline of the French coast, so 
 you may know from that, that we must have had a nice 
 day for the trip. 
 
 At Boulogne, I got my first glimpse of the 
 gens cV armes, whom I had read about all my life, and 
 there they were, waiting at the pier for the arrival of 
 the Channel packet, with their jaunty cocked hats, 
 swords, and military caps, and they presented a singu- 
 lar contrast to our " nobby Broadway squad," and 
 still more so to the average London policeman, who is 
 awkward and ungainly to a remarkable degree. There 
 is nothing especially notable about Boulogne, except 
 that it is the place which Bonaparte selected as the 
 rendezvous for his projected invasion of England, in 
 1803, which menaced that country daily, and nightly, 
 for three years, and for which he had made colossal 
 preparations. 
 
 He collected at this point, which was only twenty- 
 five miles away from Dover, an army of 172,000 
 of the flower of his infantry, 9,000 cavalry, and 
 a fleet of 2,413 transports, for the purpose of leaping 
 over the narrow barrier which interposed between 
 him and his prey, and surely, since the days of the 
 memorable Spanish Armada, in 1588, England has 
 never been in such imminent peril as she was at 
 this period. Three events chiefly conspired to pre- 
 
AT BOULOGNE. 125 
 
 vent this invasion. One, the death of Villeneuve, 
 Napoleon's most trusted and valued admiral, who died 
 as Napoleon was about to consummate his gigantic 
 project, he relying upon Yilleneuve's skill to cover the 
 crossing of the transports to the English shore, and he 
 deferred action in the matter for some time, to cast 
 about him for a suitable successor. Another cause was 
 the great coalition which the wily Pitt formed with the 
 Prussians the Austrians and the Russians, and which 
 caused Bonaparte to withdraw a portion of his forces 
 from Boulogne, but which eventually ended in the 
 unparalleled campaign of 1805, in the glories of Jena, 
 Eyluu, Ulm, and Austerlitz, and in the complete hu- 
 miliation of the Prussian monarchy especially. 
 
 The crowning reason, however, which caused the 
 ■scheme to be finally abandoned, was the entire anni- 
 hilation of the French fleet at Trafalgar, in 1805, by 
 Nelson and Collingwood, which gave the coup de grace 
 to his ambitious desigus in that direction forever. 
 Trafalgar Square, in London, takes its name from this 
 event, and Lord Nelson, whose famous monument is 
 the chief attraction of that portion of London, is justly 
 looked upon as the savior of his country. Bonaparte 
 had spent much time in drilling his soldiers to enter 
 the transports under the enemy's fire, and was per- 
 fectly satisfied of his ability to cross the channel until, 
 by his failure to obey orders, coupled with a painful 
 lack of decision, Villeneuve' s successor allowed Lord 
 Nelson with his fleet to cut him off from Boulogne, 
 
126 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 and with the loss of his fleet at Trafalgar his vast 
 scheme collapsed like a bubble. 
 
 From that time forward, Napoleon was compelled to 
 allow England to remain mistress of the seas, while he 
 made himself the autocrat of the land. I believe there 
 is a pillar there, which marks the site of the camp of the 
 " Army of England," as Bonaparte exultantly called it, 
 but he reckoned without his host, and the same powers, 
 which by coalition prevented the invasion of England, 
 also dealt Bonaparte his death blow at Waterloo. 
 About the only place of note which we pass through, 
 between Boulogne and Paris, is the city of Amiens, 
 where the "Peace of Amiens" between France and 
 England was signed in 1802. Joseph Bonaparte, 
 afterwards King of Spain, and who, after the down- 
 fall of the Bonaparte dynasty, came to this country, 
 and lived at Bordentown, N. J., for a number of years, 
 represented France ; while Lord Cornwallis, who figured 
 so prominently as a brave, though unfortunate British 
 general during our Revolutionary war, and whose sur- 
 render at Yorktown in 1781, by the aid of the French, 
 under Count Eochambeau, virtually ended the Eevo- 
 lution, represented England, but the "Peace," I believe, 
 only lasted about a twelvemonth. 
 
 We arrived at Paris, at 9, p. m. having passed through 
 a dreary and cheerless looking country, which, in point 
 of beauty, can not compare with England, being much 
 more like our Western prairie country, and I was heart- 
 ily glad to get to our journey's end. We were driven at 
 
AT PARIS. 127 
 
 once to our hotel, the " Splendide," which we found to 
 be situated directly in front of the Grand Opera House, 
 and, consequently, in the very midst of gay and lively 
 Paris (which, though not 300 miles away, seems the 
 antipodes of dull and gloomy London), that glori- 
 ous capital which is at once, the political, scientific, 
 literary, artistic, and fashionable center of Europe ; 
 and as Lever says, " whose very air is the champagne 
 of atmospheres, and where, amid the brilliant objects 
 so lavishly thrown on every side, even the poor man 
 forgets his poverty, and actually thinks he has some 
 share in the gorgeous scene around him." 
 
 "We were but a step, as it were, from the Boulevard 
 des Capucines, one of the most magnificent thorough- 
 fares of that superb city which the much abused Bona- 
 parte regime has done so much to adorn and beautify. 
 The carriages on the Northern Eailway of France are 
 the handsomest and most luxurious we have yet seen 
 in Europe ; and on this line 1 first beheld the novel 
 sight of the "guard" walking along on the steps of 
 the carriages which, of course, like the English railway 
 carriages, have the steps on the sides, instead of at the 
 ends, as with us, and looking in at the upper part of 
 the door to punch our tickets, while the train was run- 
 ning at express speed , and I thought to myself that his 
 life was in the greatest peril every moment, for if he 
 should find one door of the train not securely fastened 
 he would be liable to be thrown off into space without 
 a moment's warning or chance to save his life. I 
 wondered how our American conductors would like that 
 
128 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 style of collecting tickets. In England your ticket, if 
 you are a through passenger, is taken up by a station 
 employe at the next station but one before you arrive 
 at your destination, the guard having nothing to do but 
 to run the train. 
 
 *' The vine-clad hills of delisjhtful France " are no 
 where to be seen between Boulogne and Paris ; in fact, 
 the first we saw of them was near Fontainebleau, which 
 is forty miles from Paris on the route to Geneva, and 
 which is noted as the place at which Bonaparte signed 
 his Abdication, in 1814, before his retirement to Elba. 
 You only see, in the main, a vast extent of low, or 
 marshy country, here and there covered with a piece 
 of timber, and the same dingy-looking houses, with 
 their red tiled roofs of which we had already seen so 
 much in England. The timber in the portion of France 
 through which we passed was rather scanty, and both 
 in England and France we saw a great many men hay- 
 making and, here and there, numbers of women were 
 at work in the fields. 
 
 On this line I noticed some two-story railway car- 
 riages, which seemed as strange to me as the two-story 
 tram cars which I had seen in Liverpool, but I after- 
 wards took a short ride in one of them myself, in 
 Switzerland, when I found them, though not nearly so 
 large as our coaches, yet made on the American plan, 
 all the passengers occupying one common compart- 
 ment. I saw men cutting wheat with a small sickle, only 
 a few minutes' ride from the city of Paris, and I noticed 
 very slight indications of the use, either in England or 
 
PAlilS BY NIGHT. 129 
 
 France, of the labor-saving agricultural implements 
 which our " universal Yankee nation "is engaged in 
 making and using, and which have, undoubtedly, put 
 us in the van of all the nations of the world, in the art 
 of agriculture at any rate. Not far from Paris I noticed 
 the name '* St. Just " on the cover of an old wagon 
 standing in a farni-yard, beside the railway, and my 
 mind reverted at once to the bloody Eevolution, the 
 principal theater of which I was so soon to see, 
 and of which St. Just, along with Danton, Robespierre 
 and Marat, was one of the leading spirits. 
 
 After we had dined at our hotel, although it was then 
 perhaps 10 p. m., I concluded to take a stroll on the 
 boulevards, and get a glimpse of Paris by night. The 
 Place de 1' Opera is directly in front of our hotel, and 
 this beautiful square, all brilliantly lighted up, with the 
 imposing Grand Opera in the background and 
 thronged with thousands of handsomely dressed peo- 
 ple, who turn night into day, and with hundreds of 
 stylish and showy equipages, although not an " opera 
 night," which is, of course, more showy still, when the 
 Grand Opera House, with its myriad lights lends a daz- 
 zling brilliancy to the scene, presented a spectacle un- 
 usually pleasing and attractive. One of the finest 
 Boulevards of Paris, the Boulevard des Capucines 
 passes through the Place de 1' Opera, and I spent some 
 time promenading on this splendid avenue, and wit- 
 nessing the abandon and frivolity of La Vie Pari- 
 sienne, which is truly sui generis, and whose 
 9 
 
130 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 counterpart can be seen no where else in the wide 
 world. The pavements are twice as wide as those of 
 our largest cities, being thirtj-five feet in width, and 
 the roadway in proportion, and double rows of fine 
 shade trees are planted on either side of the Boule- 
 vards. 
 
 What struck me as the unique feature of La Vie 
 Parisienne was the scenes presented in front of the 
 numerous cafes and restaurants, which take up half 
 of the pavements with their small stands and chairs 
 where they serve drinks of all kinds, at all hours, to 
 all sorts of people, for Paris is the magnet which at- 
 tracts strangers from all quarters of the globe, and yet 
 so wide are the pavements, that there is ample room 
 for the immense throng of pedestrians to pass by with- 
 out being incommoded in the least. 
 
 In Brussels, I saw the same scenes enacted on a Sun- 
 day afternoon ; almost in the middle of the wide street, 
 the tables and chairs of a cafe having been brought clear 
 off of the pavement, in order to find the shade to protect 
 their numerous customers from the heat and glare of an 
 August sun. In Paris they habitually turn night into 
 day, so that, really, you can form hardly the faintest 
 conception of La Yie Parisienne unless you have seen 
 it in all its glory " under the gas light," or according 
 to the modern version, " under the electric light." 
 The greater part of Paris is hardly up before noon, 
 for they really seem there to do nothing, but try to 
 have a good time, and lead a regular dolce far niente 
 
A FRENCH BREAKFAST. 131 
 
 ?{/e, and at that hour the cafes are thronged, and 
 business is generally dull, or has hardly commenced 
 any where else. 
 
 There I had my first experience with a French 
 dejeuner^ or breakfast, and to have nothing at a first- 
 class hotel but a little bread and honey, with a cup of 
 cofi^ee, seemed rather a poor preparation to encounter 
 the fatigues of sight-seeing, which you find, after a 
 short time, is equal to a hard day's work. This is 
 about all you get anywhere on the Continent, as a sub- 
 stitute for the good old substantial American break- 
 fast, and you have not much more at luncheon, but 
 the substantial meal of the day occurs at about 5 p. m. 
 or at any other convenient hour you desire to suit your 
 party, and is called dejeuner a lafourchette^ and which 
 consists of seven or eight dishes, and generally well 
 cooked and handsomely served, but you have no coffee 
 unless you pay extra, as you are expected to order wine 
 instead as, of course, wine and beer in those Euro- 
 pean countries are drunk more copiously than water. 
 
 I believe, however, on that first morning in Paris, as 
 we were booked for a ten-mile excursion to Versailles 
 and Saint Cloud, we had a little more to eat by a spec- 
 ial arrangement, having, I believe, some meat given 
 us in order that we might better stand the fatigues of 
 the day. About 9 o'clock our party started in large 
 open wagonettes drawn by five horses, three (in the 
 lead, and two at the wheel,) to see the glories of Ver- 
 sailles and alas ! only the ruins of St. Cloud, which 
 had fallen a prey to the shells of the Prussians in 
 
132 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 1871, and whose statuary, etc., in the once beautiful 
 grounds was, after the city of Paris was evacuated 
 by the Prussians, totally destroyed by those horrid 
 wretches, the *' Communists." Versailles, would, no 
 doubt, have suffered in the same way had not the fort 
 of Mont St. Valerien, which played a prominent part 
 in the siege of 1871, caused such havoc in the ranks of 
 the Communists that they were compelled to forego 
 their project, M. Thiers being, at that time at Ver- 
 sailles, and that being the seat of government. 
 
 We got a fine view of this stronghold as we were driv- 
 ing along the bank of the Seine, on our return from Ver- 
 sailles. On our way to Versailles, we saw several of 
 the most imposing buildings of the city of Paris, the 
 *' Ecole Militaire," the Trocadero Palace and Gardens, 
 in which the exhibition of 1878 was held. The beau- 
 tiful Tuileries gardens, and various other places of 
 interest which we could not then stop to visit. 
 
 We crossed the Seine on a magnificent bridge, and 
 passed the fine equestrian statue of Henry IV., King 
 of France and Navarre, which is said to stand on the 
 exact spot where James de Molay, the last Grand 
 Master of the Knights Templar, was burned to death 
 at the stake, in the fourteenth century, after having 
 suffered imprisonment and all manner of torture at 
 the hands of King Philip, the Fair (but only in name), 
 of France. We also stopped at the Hotel des Inva- 
 lides whose gilded dome is one of the landmarks of 
 Paris, in order to see the tomb of Napoleon the Great, 
 but when we got there, we found that Saturday was 
 
StJBURBS OF PARIS. 133 
 
 not one of the days on which we could be admitted, so 
 we had to wait until the following Monday, much to 
 my regret in particular, as I would rather have seen 
 the tomb of Napoleon, than anything else in the city 
 of Paris, but there was no help for it, and so we had 
 to be patient and wait until another time. 
 
 On the way to Versailles, which is ten miles west 
 of Paris, we passed the village of Sevres, which 
 is known to have been a town as far back as A. D. 
 560, and is celebrated for its porcelain manufactory, 
 Sevres china being famous the world over, but the 
 works have lately been removed to the Park of St. 
 Cloud. Versailles, before the Revolution, had 
 100,000 inhabitants, but now it has dwindled away to 
 30,000. While driving through the suburbs of Paris, 
 we passed a school where there were a large number 
 of children playing and, as soon as they saw us, they 
 began to call out ^' Americainsf Atnei'icains / " and 
 then they would run out into the street after us crying 
 " a moi, a moi,'^ " to me, to me," and holding out 
 their hands for centimes, and some of them would 
 stand on their heads for us, and it was great sport to- 
 see the boys scramble for the coins which we' would 
 occasionally fling out amongst them. 
 
 The grand monarch, Louis XIV., mainly made Ver- 
 sailles what it is to-day, although King Louis Philippe 
 spent nearly $5,000,000 in repairing the Palace in 
 furniture, pictures, etc. During the siege of Paris, 
 King William of Prussia had his headquarters here from 
 September, 1870, to March, 1871, and in the famous 
 
134 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 galerie des glaces, or " Glass Gallery," the most mag- 
 nificent room in the world, he was crowned emperor of 
 Germany, and»here during the Commune, was the head- 
 quarters of the French army, and the seat of govern- 
 ment, while the red-handed Communists had unbridled 
 control of the beautiful and helpless city of Paris. 
 We entered the grounds of Versailles at a gate directly 
 opening upon the Place d'Armes, which is a large 
 space eight hundred feet broad, where the great mili- 
 tary reviews were held in the days of the grand mon- 
 arch, Louis XIV., from which circumstance it gets its 
 name ; and thence we go into what was formerly known 
 as the " Court of Ministers," but which is now known 
 as the " Court of Statues," from the numerous pieces 
 of statuary with which it is adorned. Among them, 
 are a colossal bronze equestrian statue of Louis XIV., 
 with statues of other French notabilities, — Massena, 
 Conde, Richelieu, Bayard the Chevalier, ^^ sans peur 
 et sans reproche," and others of distinction. 
 
 The marble court is surrounded by the Palace on three 
 sides, and from one of the balconies the death of a king 
 of France was always announced by saying, " Le roi est 
 mort, vive le roiy" and from another balcony the intrepid 
 Marie Antoinette addressed the sans culottes of Paris, 
 in 1789, when the Royal Family were removed by force 
 to Paris and imprisoned in the Temple, until relieved 
 from their sufferings and sorrows by the guillotine. By 
 the way, it is not a little remarkable that the Empress 
 Josephine was a prisoner during the Reign of Terror, 
 and barely escaped the shining blade of the guillotine to 
 
THE HISTORICAL MUSEUM. 135 
 
 ascend the throne, while Marie Antoinette descended 
 from the throne only to ascend the guillotine. 
 
 I noticed on the front of the two wings of the old pal- 
 ace the words inscribed, " A toutes les gloires de la 
 France,'^ and truly were the "glories of France" to 
 be found here in the most sumptuous magnificence. 
 The treasures of art and of statuary contained in this 
 wonderful Palace of the ancient Kings of France, are 
 well nigh immeasurable and simply indescribable. 
 The Musee Historique, or Historical Museum, consists 
 of only eleven large rooms which are full of pictures, 
 representing the great events in the history of France, 
 down to the Eevolution of 1789. I was greatly inter- 
 ested in the seven rooms which are called the *' Halls 
 of the Crusades," and which contain a thousand things 
 of special interest to every Knight Templar. They 
 are adorned with the regalia and banners of the French 
 Crusaders, with pictures of many of their famous bat- 
 tles, such as the Battle of Ascalon, Taking of Jerusa- 
 lem, Kaising the Siege of Malta, A Chapter of the 
 Templars, Godfrey de Bouillon under the Walls of 
 Jerusalem, together with portraits of many Grand 
 Masters of the Order, including James de Malay, Hugh 
 de Pay ens, De La Valette, etc. 
 
 In one of the rooms are to be seen the doors of the 
 hospital of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, given 
 by Sultan Mahmoud to Louis Philippe in 1836. Eleven 
 more rooms contain pictures of celebrated French battles 
 from the earliest period, this collection being called the 
 *' First Gallery of the History of France," then comes 
 
136 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 the Gallery of Constantine, seven rooms, and the Second 
 Gallery of the History of France, consisting of ten 
 rooms more, containing pictures illustrating French 
 history, from 1797 to 1836, thus covering the extraor- 
 dinary career of Bonaparte from the campaign of 
 Egypt entirely through his wondrous history of Consul 
 and Emperor, and this to me was the most interesting 
 portion of all the grand paintings at Versailles, and 
 this is only a portion of its art riches. Of the battles 
 and achievements of Napoleon alone, there are about 
 three hundred paintings by the first painters of France, 
 many of them by David, the great battle painter, who 
 insulted Louis XVI. while a prisoner and voted for 
 his death, but afer wards, nevertheless, became one of 
 the most groveling and abject sycophants around the 
 throne of Napoleon, and I could not help thinking 
 of this while gazing upon his great pictures. 
 
 Among the pictures are the famous Coronation of 
 Napoleon and Josephine, by David, the battles of Wag- 
 am, Eylau, Friedland Rivoli, Essling, Areola, Lodi, 
 Marengo, Austerlitz, the Siege of Ulm, etc., etc., with 
 hundreds of others of almost equal historic interest and 
 of great artistic value. There are to be seen here the 
 bed-rooms of many of the kings and queens of France, 
 with furniture and trappings, in some cases nearly as 
 they were in the days of their famous occupants, though 
 generally dingy and decayed, and which were strikingly 
 suggestive of the fact that princes, as well as their rich 
 surroundings, can not escape the fell destroyer any 
 more easily than common men. 
 
THE GLASS GALLERY. 137 
 
 I was especially interested in the rooms of the un- 
 fortunate Marie Antoinette, and saw many things 
 used by her, among others the royal couch with her 
 royal monogram upon its faded trappings. There is 
 an elegant theater, and a grand Royal Chapel, also, in 
 which Louis XVI., and Marie Antoinette were mar- 
 ried in 1770, but which has not been used for services 
 since the fall of Bonaparte. I must not omit to speak 
 particularly of the Grande Galerie de Louis XIV. .» 
 or Glass Gallery, which is 239 feet long, 33 feet wide 
 and 23 feet high, which occupies the center of the 
 west front of the Palace, with 17 windows, which look 
 out upon the beautiful gardens and the grand foun- 
 tains of Versailles reaching from the ceilings to the 
 floor. 
 
 What grander spot could have been chosen to cele- 
 brate the unity of the German Empire, and to crown 
 the Conqueror William the Emperor of Germany. It 
 presented a spectacle similar to that of Cortez, the con- 
 queror of Mexico, proudly taking possession of the 
 halls of the haughty Montezumas; right here, too, 
 where the Grand Monarch Louis XIV. had in his arro- 
 gance emblazoned on the cornice of this superb salon, 
 the words ie Roi gouvrne par lui meme ; "the king 
 governs by himself alone," a dogma as arrogant, and 
 yet equally fallacious as that promulgated by Napoleon 
 in., the " nephew of his uncle," Letal, cest moi, *' I 
 am the State," whose total overthrow William had Just 
 accomplished two centuries later. Opposite each win- 
 dow is a grand mirror, and between the windows and the 
 
138 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 mirrors are paintings to celebrate the glory of Louis 
 XIV., by Lebrun and Mignard. 
 
 A ball was given in this room by Louis Napoleon 
 to Queen Victoria, in 1855, and they opened the 
 ball together. We next looked at the grand foun- 
 tain, and were sorry that we had noi been there 
 on the day when they turned on the water, which 
 is the first Sunday in each month, and this wonder- 
 ful sight brings out thousands of people from Paris. 
 The water used on that occasion involves an ex- 
 pense of 10,000 francs, or about $2,000. We wound 
 up our visit to Versailles with a visit to Great Tri- 
 anon, which was built by Louis XIV. for his royal 
 mistress, Madame de Maintenon, and Little Trianon, 
 built by Louis XV. for Madame du Barry, the son 
 imitating faithfully the noble example set him by his 
 illustrious sire. These are counterparts of Versailles on 
 a much smaller scale, of course, though quite grand in 
 their way, but after seeing the great Palace you soon 
 grow weary of these small affairs. 
 
 We then visited the room which contained the royal 
 carriages and sleighs, which were the most gor- 
 geous things that we had yet seen, among them 
 the finest of all being the state carriage of Na- 
 poleon, which was truly a magnificent afPair, gilt 
 all over, and profusely sprinkled with the royal " N" 
 of Napoleon. On our way back to Paris we entered 
 the grounds of St. Cloud, which is about seven miles 
 from Paris, but there was nothing left but a pile of 
 ruins to mark the spot. While waiting at the gate 
 
ST. CLOUD. 139 
 
 of St. Cloud for a railway train from Versailles to 
 pass, so that we could cross the railway and enter the 
 park, a small body of French soldiers passed near us 
 chanting their national hymn, the Marseillaise, the 
 bloody inspiration of theEevolution, and of Rougetde 
 Lisle, its author, and I shall never forget how the air 
 thrilled me through and through. The Palace, or 
 rather the remains of it, is on a high plateau above the 
 Seine, and from which you obtain a fine view of Paris 
 in the distance. The Palace was built in 1688 by Louis 
 XIV., and presented to the Due d'Orleans, and King 
 Louis XVI., afterwards purchased it for Marie Antoin- 
 ette. Napoleon spent much of his time here during 
 the summer, here he was married to Marie Louisa of 
 Austria, in 1810, and it was here, after Waterloo, that 
 Blucher had his headquarters, and the Capitulation of 
 Paris was signed in the chateau. 
 
 Not only the Palace, but the town of St. Cloud, was 
 almost utterly destroyed during the siege of 1871. 
 From St. Cloud, the road to Paris descends consider- 
 ably, and as we approached the banks of the Seine, 
 we had a grand view of the city spread out before us, 
 and of which as yet we had seen but little. While 
 descending to the bridge over the Seine, I noticed a 
 round shot, firmly embedded in the portico of a house 
 right by the roadside, which was, no doubt, a relic of 
 the siege. We then passed Long Champs, the famous 
 race track of Paris, which, by the way, was the scene 
 in 1881 of the famous victory of Foxhall, sired by 
 King Alfonso, and of course, foaled in Kentucky, 
 
140 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 where his owner purchased him for the insignificant 
 sum of $500.00. Foxhall was the first American colt 
 that ever ran in France, and he beat Tristan, a French 
 colt, only by the skin of his teeth, but by so doing he 
 won the grand 'prix (or grand prize), which is worth 
 160,000'francs or $82,000; 
 
 In England, subsequently, he ran a number of 
 races, 9-nd no wonder his fortunate owner, Mr. Keene, 
 *' thought that his colt was the greatest horse in the 
 world." Alas, poor Keene! he was then worth 
 $10,000,000; now he is not worth a sou — while 
 making this little digression I may say that while going 
 over on the City of Kome, I made the acquaintance of 
 the noted Theodore Walton, the well known turfman, 
 of New York, but who is better known by the appel- 
 lation " Plunger." We then drove through the Bois 
 de Boulogne, which is a magnificent park and covers 
 2,250 acres, and,finally, found ourselves in the famous 
 avenue leading from the " Bois or wood of Boulogne 
 to the Arc de Triomphe, or Arch of Triumph, which is 
 to Paris what Hyde Park is to London, it being filled 
 at certain fashionable hours with stylish turnouts and 
 handsome women. The equestrians, I believe, go to 
 Bois on summer mornings, about 9 o'clock, for their 
 favorite ride. 
 
 The Arc de Triomphe de I'etoile next commands our 
 attention for a few minutes, and is said to be the 
 finest thing of the kind to be seen any where in 
 the world. It is about two miles from the Palais 
 Royal, and from its position can be seen almost all 
 
ARCH OF TRIUBIPH. 141 
 
 over Paris, like the Dome of the Hotel des Invalides. 
 It is culled Vetoile, or "the star," because twelve fine 
 avenues radiate from this, as a common point, like the 
 the spokes of a wheel. These avenues were laid out 
 by Baron Haussman, the " Boss Shepherd " of Paris, 
 by the orders of Napoleon III. The Arch was begun 
 in 1806, by Napoleon, to commemorate his victories 
 but was not finally completed until 1836, by the King 
 Louis Philippe, and cost, when complete, more than 
 10,000,000 francs or $2,000,000. 
 
 It is 150 feet high, 137 feet wide, and 58 feet thick. 
 It faces toward the Champs Elysees, the favorite 
 promenade of Paris, and it is inscribed with the names 
 of 384 French generals, and nearly 100 French vic- 
 tories. The most famous bas-reliefs represent, respec- 
 tively, first, the funeral of Marceau; second, the battle 
 of Aboukir ; third, the Bridge of Areola, and fourth, 
 the capture of Alexandria. I was told that from the top 
 was to be obtained the best view to be had of Paris, but 
 I did not have the time to go up. We drove from there 
 through the beautiful Champs Elysees, passed the 
 Place de la Concorde at the other end of the avenue, 
 and arrived at our hotel about six p. m. much fatigued 
 and very hungry, but highly pleased with our day's 
 sight seeing. That night several of our party visited 
 the magnificent Eden Theater which is not far from 
 the Grand Opera House, and is one of the most beauti- 
 ful theaters in Europe. There was a grand spectacular 
 pantomime being exhibited called " Excelsior," I think, 
 which required a large number of persons to be on the 
 
142 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 stage at once, frequently, and the scenery and appoint- 
 ments were truly splendid. 
 
 They have a fine cafe on each side of the auditorium, 
 upstairs, where you can retire between the acts, or at 
 any time, and sip your refreshing drinks to the music 
 of sparkling cascades, as well as of a female orchestra 
 which discourses, at intervals, the most bewitching 
 airs, besides, occasionally ,dispensing their sweetest (?) 
 smiles upon their interested auditors. A party of us 
 visited the Grand Opera House on Monday night fol- 
 lowing, and I will give a brief description of it later 
 on as I have aimed, as far as practicable, heretofore, 
 to describe what I have seen, as much as possible, in 
 the order in which I saw it. The next day was Sunday, 
 and about the first thing most of us did was to stroll 
 around the corner of the Boulevard des Capucines,past 
 the Grand Hotel and up to the elegant rooms of the 
 American Exchange, where we registered our names, 
 wrote a few letters home, looked over late American 
 papers, etc., and where we were most kindly treated 
 by the gentlemanly manager and his employes whose 
 names, I regret to say, I am unable to give at this 
 time. 
 
 The famous Madeleine, or Church of Mary Mag- 
 dalene, was next visited, and I stepped inside and 
 listened to the service for a few minutes. This edifice 
 dates back to 1764, in the time of Louis XV., but 
 was not completed until 1842, costing two and a 
 half million dollars. The carvings over the front en- 
 trance are very elaborate and represent the Last Judg- 
 
NOTRE DAME. 143 
 
 ment, and were designed by Lemaire, and the ponder- 
 ous bronze doors are adorned with groups illustrating 
 the ten commandments. The front of the Madeleine, 
 with its fine Corinthian columns, is very imposing, and 
 the church taken altogether is one of the finest struc- 
 tures in Paris, and it barely escaped being battered to 
 pieces during the sway ot the Commune of 1871. We 
 next drove to the great Cathedral of Notre Dame, 
 which is situated on an isle in the river Seine, called 
 Notre Dame Isle, formerly Isle de la cile. 
 
 The present structure was begun in 1160, the choir 
 was completed in 1196, and the rest in 1257. Nothing 
 was done after this with the building until 1700, when 
 a number of alterations were made, and during the Rev- 
 olution the building was most wantonly abused and was 
 dedicated to the Goddess of Reason, and was called the 
 Temple of Reason by the mad revolutionists. The 
 west front of this noble building is indescribably beau- 
 tiful. Victor Hugo, however, has depicted it with all 
 his wonderful descriptive powers in his story of 
 *' Notre Dame de Paris," and, of course, I shall not 
 attempt it. It has a famous bell called the Bour- 
 don, weighing more than thirteen tons. The interior 
 is three hundred and ninety feet long, and the center 
 aisle is more than one hundred feet in height. There 
 are also two beautiful rose windows, thirty-six feet in 
 diameter, which date back to the thirteenth century. 
 Among the relics of the Cathedral, they claim to have 
 two thorns from the crown of the /Savior and one of 
 the genuine nails of the cross. 
 
144 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Services were also going on there, and the music was 
 very fine. They have a custom of burning wax tapers 
 before the Virgin for the repose of the soul of a dead 
 friend, for good lucli, etc., and I noticed several of our 
 party investing sous and centimes for these tapers, and 
 having them burnt before the Virgin. The next place 
 we started to see was the Louvre, as Monday in 
 the picture galleries of Paris is, generally, devoted 
 to cleaning up, so that was our only chance to see that 
 vast collection which consists of thousands of pieces of 
 statuary and acres of canvas, so after a hasty luncheon 
 we hurried to the most famous and by far the most ex- 
 tensive picture gallery of the world. The buildings, 
 as they now stand, form a hollow square of immense 
 size and extent, one wing being right on the bank of the 
 Seine, and you walk from one room directly into an- 
 other, all the way round the square. 
 
 When you enter, an attendant at once takes your cane 
 or umbrella so that you will not be tempted to point at 
 the pictures, or statuary, and thus perchance injure them, 
 and then you are ready for the vast undertaking, but 
 there is such an embarrassment of riches, so much to be 
 seen, and so little time to see it in, that you are utterly 
 bewildered as to where to begin. You begin to look 
 around and take a note of this, that, and the other 
 thing until you become utterly discouraged, as I did, 
 time and again, and resolved not to scribble another 
 line or jot down another memorandum about anything, 
 no matter what. As Virgil said of the descent to 
 Avernus, hoc opus hie labor est; but we can not spare 
 
THE LOUVRE. 145 
 
 any more time for moralizing, but devote ourselves at 
 once to a hasty inspection of our surroundings. 
 
 This enormous collection of works of art occupies 
 nearly the whole of the building forming the Louvre 
 Palace and the Louvre Gallery. A high authority on the 
 subject of art says of this wondrous magazine of paint- 
 ing and statuary " that, as a whole, it is perhaps the 
 finest, and as regards numbers, the largest in Europe, 
 although it must yield, in Italian art, to those of the 
 Vatican and Florence ; in Dutch, to those of the 
 Hague, Amsterdam, and Antwerp; in Roman antiqui- 
 ties, to the Capital and Vatican at Rome, and to that 
 of Naples ; and in Greek sculpture, to the British Mu- 
 seum." Such is the extent and the size of the collection 
 that merely to walk through the rooms at a leisurely 
 pace would require a couple of hours, and to arrive at 
 a fair conception of the most important paintings and 
 pieces of statuary would require at least a month; 
 but we did the best we could with the limited time at 
 our disposal. 
 
 As we entered the Louvre on the basement floor, 
 we went through that first, and very hastily, be- 
 cause I was impatient to get to the floors above, 
 where the picture galleries were, although the ground 
 floor contained the sculptures of all ages and all coun- 
 tries almost, but for which I cared very little. 
 The sculptures to be seen here are divided into 
 five different collections which, according to the guide 
 book, may be classified as follows :" ^^zVsif, ancient 
 Roman and Greek Marbles ; second, Egyptian Monu- 
 
 10 
 
146 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 ments, Statues, etc. ; third, Assyrian, Syrian, Phoeni- 
 cian, etc. ; fourth; Mediseval and the Renaissance 
 Sculpture, and fifth, Modern, that is the last three 
 centuries." 
 
 Among the most remarkable sculptures to be seen 
 in the first department above named is, of course, 
 the famous Venus of Milo, which is surely the 
 most perfect specimen in marble of the " human form 
 divine " which is to be found in the world, and which 
 was discovered in the Island of Milo, in 1820, whence 
 it gets its name. It is undoubtedly as near perfection 
 (except that, unfortunately, its arms have been broken 
 off above the elbow, but that matters not), as any 
 thing upon which the eye of man has ever fallen, in the 
 way of the reproduction of the human figure in the al- 
 most living marble, and as I gazed at it with ever increas- 
 ing interest, I thought that certainly, no human creature 
 has ever been blessed with such a perfect form as 
 that, and then, too, the expression of its face seemed 
 to say, "I too, have a soul as well as you," and it 
 looked almost as though it were inspired ; and so it 
 was with the genius of the "great unknown" who 
 sculptured it. 
 
 Next in interest, perhaps, is a colossal statue 
 of Melpomene, the Muse of tragic and lyric poetry, 
 and in front of this fine statue is a fine Mosaic 
 pavement in five compartments, the center only being 
 antique, and personifying " Victory," while the other 
 four are modern supplements to the ancient original, 
 and represent four great rivers of Europe and Africa: 
 
MUSEUM OF SCULPTURE. 147 
 
 the Po, the Danube, the Nile, and the Dnieper. In 
 the Assyrian collection is to be seen a colossal vase, 
 four feet in circumference which was found in Cyprus 
 in 1866. In the Museum of sculpture of the Middle 
 Ages, and the Renaissance (or " new birth in art" ) , is 
 the celebrated group of Diane de Poitiers, the famous 
 mistress of King Henry II., in which she is repre- 
 sented as the Hunting Diana, by the noted artist, Ben- 
 venuto Cellini. 
 
 In the museum of modern sculpture, are to be 
 seen fine busts of Madame du Barry, the mistress 
 of Louis XIV., one of the famous Jean Jacques 
 Eousseau, whose birthplace I afterwards saw in the 
 city of Geneva, a statue of Prometheus, one of Psyche 
 by the famous Pradier, and so on ad nauseam, these 
 being only a very few of the thousands of the notable 
 specimens of sculpture which may be seen in those 
 capacious and well filled rooms. Now do you wonder 
 that I was anxious to get to the splendid rooms above, 
 where I afterwards found works by artists such as 
 Paul Veronese, Correggio, Rembrandt, Andrea del 
 Sarto, Van Dyke, Rubens (of whose famous pieces I 
 actually counted thirty-seven, nearly all of them of 
 the largest size), Holbein, David, Titian, Leonardo 
 Da Vinci, Teniers, Quentin-Matsys, the Blacksmith- 
 painter, and Lebrun, the court painter of Louis XIV., 
 to say nothing of hundreds of lesser lights. Le- 
 brun has four very fine paintings on a large scale, 
 concerning the life and exploits of Alexander the 
 Great, representing the passage of the Granicus, the 
 
148 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 battle of Arbela, Alexander meeting King Porus, 
 and his triumphant entry into Babylon. Rubens 
 has one series of twenty-two large pictures rep- 
 resenting, allegorically, events in the history of 
 Marie de Medicis. The ceiling of each room is fres- 
 coed in the highest style of art, and you notice a gens 
 d'arme at the entrance of about every other room, who 
 takes care that no harm comes to these priceless treas- 
 ures of art from either thoughtless or designing visi- 
 tors. The 'day I was there (Sunday), the Louvre 
 was crowded, and it was with difficulty that we could 
 make our way through some of the rooms at all. The 
 most famous pictures of the collection are to be found 
 in the Salon Carre in which the gems of the Italian, 
 Flemish, Spanish, and French schools are placed. 
 Here is seen the largest, as well as one of the finest 
 pictures in the Louvre, by Paul Veronese, represent- 
 ing the marriage of Cana, and this picture is thirty- 
 two feet long and twenty-one feet high. The Savior 
 and the Virgin Mary appear in the center of the pict- 
 ure, and the remaining figures are said to be portraits, 
 among them Eleanor of Austria, near her Francis L, 
 and next, Queen Mary of England, and in the fore- 
 ground, the great painter, Veronese himself, playing 
 on the violoncello, the picture costing about $120,000, 
 the largest price any picture in the world has ever been 
 known to bring. 
 
 From this interesting place we enter the Great 
 Gallery, which is 1,320 feet long and forty-two feet 
 wide, and contains only the works of dead Masters, 
 
THE GREAT GALLERY. 149 
 
 which was chiefly formed by Bonaparte, and is 
 one of the most magnificent in the world. The pic- 
 tures of the Louvre are about 1,800 in number, and 
 made up as follows; Of the Italian school, there 
 are about 560, 20 Spanish, 620 German, and 660 of 
 the French school, so you see that they are of an 
 immense variety, and embrace almost every conceiva- 
 ble subject. There were, formerly five rooms known 
 as the Museum of Sovereigns, three of them being 
 known respectively as the chamber of Anne, of 
 Austria, Bed-chamber of Henry IV., and Salon of 
 Henry TV., and a few years ago were full of interest- 
 ing relics of various Sovereigns, but more especially of 
 the Great Napoleon ; but these mementoes are now to 
 be found distributed among other museums in various 
 cities of Europe. 
 
 After the battle of Waterloo, the Louvre lost 
 many of its most valuable works of art, which had 
 been placed there by Bonaparte, as the spoils of 
 his victorious campaigns, and taken from the finest 
 galleries in Europe, where had gone his victorious 
 eagles, they being restored to their original own- 
 ers by the Duke of Wellington, which act the French 
 looked upon with the greatest disgust, they having had 
 them in their possession so long that they had begun 
 to regard themselves as their legitimate owners. One 
 picture in the Louvre is called, *' Lot Leaving Sodom 
 Attended by Angels ;" this bears Eubens' own signa- 
 ture and is apparently all done by his masterly hand, 
 and his chef d'oeuvre in the Louvre, but to find 
 
150 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 his masterpiece, you must see his famous Descent from 
 the Cross in the grand old Cathedral at Antwerp, 
 of which I will speak at the proper time. 
 
 The Louvre was formerly the Palace and residence 
 of the kings of France, and from a window of the then 
 palace, which, however, can not now be seen, as that 
 portion of the Louvre has been destroyed, and is now 
 rebuilt, the infamous Charles IX. fired upon the inno- 
 cent and helpless Huguenots in the streets below, at 
 the time of the massacre of St. Bartholomew, August 
 24, 1572 ; and in front of the Louvre is the noted 
 church of St. Germain I'Auxerrois, from which the 
 fatal signal of destruction was given on that dreadful 
 night, and, indeed, it is said that the bell was tolled 
 during the entire night. I afterwards looked at this 
 church with the greatest interest, because a near rela- 
 tive of mine now deceased, who was a writer of some 
 note, Miss Eliza A. Dupuy, had, among other works, 
 written an interesting historical romance, called " The 
 Huguenot Exiles," in which one of her ancestors, who 
 was of prominent Huguenot extraction, figured as the 
 hero, and who was compelled to leave France after the 
 horrible massacre of St. Bartholomew. 
 
 Besides what has been referred to, which is hardly a 
 thousandth part of the riches of the Louvre, must be 
 mentioned the drawings and designs of the " Old Mas- 
 ters," which are the natural complement to their paint- 
 ings, of which the Louvre has the finest and richest, 
 and the most numerous collection in Europe, and they 
 fill at least a dozen rooms, and are said to number 
 
WONDERS OF THE LOUVRE. 151 
 
 about 36,000 specimens ; and among them you may see 
 original sketches by Holbein, Teniers, Kubens, Van- 
 dyke, Paul Veronese, Gerard and others of equal note, 
 from which sketches their greatest works were after- 
 wards completed. The Louvre has had several very 
 narrow escapes from destruction at the hands of the 
 Eevolutionary mobs of Paris, having been bravely, but 
 ineffectually, defended by the Swiss guards for three 
 days during the Revolution of 1830, but it seems that 
 its valued contents did not suffer seriously upon that 
 occasion. 
 
 In 1871, however, the red-handed Communists set 
 fire to the Louvre with the intention of erasing 
 this vast treasure-house from the face of the earth; 
 but luckily the library was the only portion of the 
 buildings which was destroyed. The chief works of 
 art had already been sent away to Brest for safety 
 some time before, in anticipation of the siege by the 
 Prussians, so that even had the Louvre been totally 
 destroyed, there would have been yet left in France 
 the nucleus of another Renaissance of art ; but, hap- 
 pily, that disaster was averted by the precautions so 
 wisely taken. Any further description of the Louvre 
 " would tire the talkative Fabius," so I leave the sub- 
 ject which has occupied a thousand abler pens than 
 mine, and turn my attention to some other of the 
 sights of the great city, of which so much yet remains 
 to be seen in the brief time at our disposal. 
 
152 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 PARIS CONTINUED. 
 
 fT was a beautiful, sunny Sabbath afternoon, and as 
 by the cruel ( ! ) regulations of the authorities the 
 Louvre is closed at 4 p. m. when we reluctantly took 
 our departure, we strolled through the beautiful 
 Champs Elysees, which is the favorite promenade of 
 the gay Parisians, and which presents many singular 
 phases of life to a stranger. On that broad thorough- 
 fare you may see people dressed in almost every garb 
 of the world, and hear a confusion of tongugs, such as 
 Babel hardly equaled, see half a dozen Punch-and- 
 Judy shows all going on at the same time, see nice 
 little wagons drawn by goats, and filled with pretty 
 and handsomely dressed children, and then the polite 
 and well dressed Parisians, especially the ladies, who 
 are noted the world over for their handsome figures, 
 neat gloves and boots, and dresses perfectly fitting, 
 and all looking as only a French woman can look, from 
 the fair Parisienne, dressed in her silks and satins, to 
 the maiden in the plainest attire — all this, I say, pre- 
 sents a panorama of gay and careless life to be seen, 
 I presume, in only one city in the world. 
 
 I could hardly realize that this was Paris which had 
 furnished the bloody orgies of the Kevolution, and the 
 
THE CHAMPS ELYSEES. 153 
 
 horrid outrages of the sans culottes, when the women of 
 the lower classes actually brought their knitting to the 
 very foot of the scaffold, there to gloat over the misery 
 of the unhappy victims, and to scream exultantly, dbas 
 les aristocrats (" down with the Aristocrats "), at the 
 prisoners brought in carts to the guillotine, whose only 
 crime, frequently, was that of occupying a little higher 
 social i)osition than their wicked persecutors. I next 
 wended my way to the famous Place de la Concorde, 
 which is grand and imposing at any time, but presents 
 a wondrously beautiful appearance with its myriad gas 
 lights after night, and where the guillotine did its 
 horrible office during the Revolution, and I was cu- 
 rious to see this spot which had been watered with the 
 blood of all that was most exalted and noblest in the 
 history of France. 
 
 Some of the most important events in French 
 history have taken place upon this truly historic 
 spot. It was formerly called the Place Louis 
 Quinze, from a bronze equestrian statue of Louis 
 XV., which formerly stood there, but during the heat 
 of the Revolution it was torn down and melted into 
 cannon, and the mob changed the name to the Place 
 de la Revolution, and here erected a statue of Liberty, 
 to which Madame Roland alluded in her famous dying 
 words on the scaffold, when she pointed toward the 
 statue and exclaimed in heartrending accents, *' Oh, 
 Liberty ! What crimes are committed in thy name ! " 
 
 The guillotine was erected here, near the famous 
 obelisk of Luxor, and here it is believed the lives of 
 
154 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 2,800 persons were taken, most of them upon the flim- 
 siest pretenses. 
 
 For a short time during the Reign of Terror in 
 1793, the guillotine was removed to the Place de Car- 
 rousel, but was soon after restored to its former loca- 
 tion. On the occasion of the festivities connected with 
 the marriage of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette, in 
 1770, and, as if presaging w^hat afterwards occurred to 
 these royal personages on that ill-fated spot, a panic 
 originated by the bursting of a rocket, caused the vast 
 assemblage to push each other into the ditches, etc., 
 with which the place was then filled, causing the deaths 
 of 1,200 people, and seriously injuring 2,000 more, 
 and from this you may form some idea of the vast 
 size of the place. 
 
 At the eastern and the western entrance of the 
 place are to be seen two fine marble groups repre- 
 senting fiery horses being controlled by their groom, 
 near the center is a magnificent fountain, and around 
 the Place, at regular intervals, are to be seen 
 eight allegorical monuments, representing eight of 
 the principal cities of France, and, it is said, but I 
 know not how truly, that each group faces toward the 
 city which it represents. The eight cities are Lille, 
 whose monument was destroyed by cannon during the 
 reign of the Commune, but is now restored ; Strasburg, 
 which is habitually draped in mourning to typify the 
 loss of that city which was held by France for 200 years 
 (it having been taken from Germany by Louis XIV. ), 
 and with it the province of Alsace and Lorraine ( as part 
 
TOMB OF NAPOLEON. 155 
 
 of the price of the Franco-Prussian war in 1870-71), 
 Bordeaux, Nantes, Marseilles, Brest, Rouen, and 
 Lyons, where the Terror raged as madly, almost as 
 in Paris itself. 
 
 The obelisk of Luxor of which I have spoken, dates 
 back to the time of Sesostris the Great, of whom 
 Herodotus, the historian of Egypt, discourses, and 
 weighs 500,000 pounds, and cost France to get it 
 here and place it in position the sum of $40,000. 
 It is 72 feet high, and seven feet square at the base, 
 and five feet at the top, and there are said to be 1,600 
 Egyptian characters traced upon it. The next morn- 
 ing we took our seats in our wagonettes for the pur- 
 pose of seeing all we could of Paris that day, and we 
 first drove to the Mecca of all Frenchmen, as well as 
 the place that interests strangers from many lands, 
 need I say where? to the tomb of the great Napoleon ; 
 who at thirty-six was First Consul, and at forty-six, the 
 master of Europe, but who, after having tasted all hu- 
 man glories, had to taste the bitterness of Waterloo, and 
 to " eat his proud heart out," upon the lonely sea-girt 
 rock of St. Helena, under the insulting and arrogant 
 espionage of the brutal Sir Hudson Lowe, who was 
 especially selected for that post because of his well 
 known meanness of character, as no English gentleman 
 would consent to act the part of a spy and jailer. As 
 Byron says of him after « ' that first and last of 
 fields" — 
 
 "Ambition's life and labors all were vain; 
 
 He wears the shattered links of the world's broken chain." 
 
156 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 The famous tomb of the Emperor is directly beneath 
 the gilded dome of the Church of the Invalides, which 
 is one of the landmarks of Paris, where a circular 
 marble balustrade surrounds the crypt, which is 
 about 20 feet below the spectator and 36 feet wide, 
 who must be content with looking on from above, as 
 entrance to the crypt is not allowed to visitors. Two 
 e:rand staircases of marble lead down to the entrance 
 of the tomb, which is marked with the royal "N " 
 (Napoleon's monogram), and over the entrance are 
 inscribed a few words from Napoleon's will in regard 
 to the final disposition of his remains, and of which the 
 following is the translation : " I desire that my ashes 
 should rest upon the banks of the Seine, in the midst 
 of the French people whom I have loved so well." At 
 each side of the entrance to the tomb is a Corinthian 
 column crowned with a funeral urn, and dedicated to 
 his intimate personal friends in the days of his pros- 
 perity, the Marshals Duroc and Bertrand, and who 
 did not desert him in his hour of need, they having 
 shared with him his exile at St. Helena. 
 
 The light is admitted from above through colored 
 glass, and the effect upon the gilded surroundings of the 
 tomb is perfectly wonderful, even on a dark day, which 
 was the case when I saw it, and the light falling upon 
 the high altar, with its ten marble steps, and the figure of 
 the Savior on the Cross above the crypt, all seemed 
 bathed in indescribable glory. The sarcophagus, which 
 occupies the center of the crypt, is a single block, 12 
 feet long and 6 feet wide, and above this is the tomb. 
 
HOTEL DES INVALIDES. 157 
 
 which is an immense piece of porphyry which weighs 
 135,000 pounds, and was brought from Finland at a 
 cost of $28,000, all this immense weight resting on a 
 block of green granite, making the total height 13V2 
 feet. The pavement of the crypt is decorated 
 with a crown of laurels, in mosaic, and within this, in a 
 black circle, are the names of some of Napoleon's great- 
 est victories. These are Rivoli, Marengo, Austerlitz, 
 Jena, Friedland, and others. Twelve statues face the 
 tomb, each representing some victory of the illustrious 
 dead. The whole expense connected with the transfer 
 of the remains of Napoleon from St. Helena in 1842, 
 and rearing this costly and magnificent memorial of 
 the idol of France, was something like $2,000,000. • 
 The mortal remains of Bonaparte were deposited in 
 the sarcophagus with befitting ceremonies on April 2, 
 1861. 
 
 The hotel of the Invalides, proper, covers an area 
 of 16 acres, and has about 18 different courts and 
 can accommodate 5,000 invalids or veterans, but it has 
 generally only about 700. The Church of St. Lojiis 
 (the Chapel of Invalides), is said to be the master- 
 piece of its architect, and is one of the most conspicu- 
 ous ornaments of Paris. In the days of Napoleon, this 
 chapel was decorated with 3,000 flags taken in battle, 
 and others were hung up in the chapel, but nearly all 
 of them were burned by order of Joseph Bonaparte, 
 just before the Allies entered Paris in 1814. There 
 are, however, a few torn and battle-scarred flags left in 
 the chapel yet. I saw and talked (briefly of course), 
 
158 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 with several old soldiers who told me in their intensely 
 Frenchy dramatic way, in answer to my inquiries 
 addressed to them in stammering French, without the 
 accent( ?), that they had belonged to the Grand Army, 
 and whose eyes sparkled with pride, and who drew 
 themselves proudly up to their full height, when I 
 mentioned the revered name of Bonaparte. 
 
 Near the tomb of Napoleon are the remains of his 
 brother. King Joseph of Spain, and the great Vauban, 
 the famous engineer of Louis XIV., also Marshal 
 Ttirenne and King Jerome Napoleon of Westphalia, 
 who, when a young man married Miss Patterson of 
 Baltimore, but whose marriage, at the instance of Na- 
 'poleon, was annulled by the Pope. Bonaparte had this 
 marriage annulled for reasons of state (though it is 
 said much against the will of his brother Jerome, who 
 fell desperately in love with Miss Patterson early in 
 the century while erasing in a French man-of-war, 
 which anchored for some time at Baltimore), because 
 he desired his brother Jerome to form a matrimonial 
 alliance with some of the monarchs of Europe, and 
 thus strengthen the Napoleon dynasty, and so Jerome 
 was forced to yield to the iron will of Bonaparte, and 
 give up his young and lovely bride, as a reluctant sac- 
 rifice on the altar of ambition. 
 
 It is said that Madame Bonaparte, while visit- 
 ing Italy afterwards saw Jerome, then the King 
 of Westphalia, and his queen in a picture gallery 
 in Florence, and that he apparently seemed to re- 
 cognize his deserted wife, and it is not a little re- 
 
THE COLUMN OF JULY. 159 
 
 markable that she lived to survive the last remnant of 
 the dynasty of Napoleon (for whose selfish aggrandize- 
 ment she was, like the Empress Josephine, herself, after- 
 wards so cruelly and remorselessly set aside), in the 
 person of Napoleon III., whose star forever set, in 
 1870, she dying onl}^ very recently, a fact which goes 
 far to prove the truth of the old saying, that " time 
 makes all things even." We next drove past the Porte 
 St. Denis and the Porte St. Martin, on our way to see 
 the Place de la Bastile, which is, of course, another of 
 the historic spots of Paris, and the monument there 
 which is called the Column of July, commemorates the 
 site of the famous Bastile, which was razed to the 
 ground during the Revolution. 
 
 The Porte St. Denis is much grander in size and 
 beauty than the Porte St. Martin, and was origin- 
 ally built to celebrate the victories of Louis XIV. 
 (who like Napoleon, was fond of setting up monu- 
 ments of his achievements, but unlike him, was rarely 
 seen on the field of battle, rather preferring to leave 
 the issue of his campaigns to his great marshals 
 and engineers), and at that time forming one of 
 the gates of Paris, as the walls then ran along the 
 present Boulevards. It is seventy-six feet high, and 
 the principal arch is forty-five feet high, and twenty- 
 six feet wide. The bas-relief above the arch represents 
 Louis XIV. crossing the Ehine. Both these arches 
 have figured in the various revolutions of Paris, as 
 they afforded strongholds for the insurgents, and in 
 1830 and 1848 especially. The Bastile was attacked 
 
160 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 by a mob 50,000 strong, with twenty cannon which 
 they had taken from the Invalides on July 14, 
 1789, but as the garrison only consisted of thirty-two 
 Swiss and eighty pensioners, they could not long re- 
 sist such overwhelming odds, as they had not nearly 
 force enough to man the walls. The Bastile fell and 
 De Launay, the governor, was beheaded, most of the 
 garrison murdered, and the head of De Launay stuck 
 on the bayonet. 
 
 In spite of the popular belief that the dungeons 
 of the Bastile were full of prisoners who were unlaw- 
 fully detained of their liberty, only seven prisoners 
 were found in the fortress. It is supposed that the 
 fortress was stormed, because its guns commanded 
 the Faubourg St. Antoine, which was at that time 
 the home of the workingmen of Paris particularly, 
 and of course a perfect hot-bed of sedition. The next 
 year the Bastile was demolished by the decree of the 
 National Assembly, and part of its debris used in con- 
 constructing the I^ont de la Concorde. The column is 
 one hundred and fifty-four feet high, and entirely of 
 bronze, and has some finely carved lines around it. 
 The genius of Liberty surmounts the column, in her 
 right hand a torch and in her left a broken chain ; she 
 stands on one foot, with wings expanded as though 
 about to soar away into the vast expanse of ether. 
 We then went on to the famous cemetery of PeVe la 
 Chaise, which contains about 20,000 graves, and 
 among them some of the most eminent names of France 
 and especially of the present century. 
 
PERE LA CHAISE. 161 
 
 The place derives its name from La Chaise, the con- 
 fessor of Louis XIV., and covers over two hundred 
 acres. Yqu have hardly gotten inside of the enclos- 
 ure before you begin to see wreaths of immortelles, 
 some of them, of course, being genuine flowers, in 
 great profusion on most of the tombs which you see 
 around you. I had heard so much of these immor- 
 telles, that I was curious to examine them, and I did so 
 and found that many of them were not made of 
 flowers at all, these being on the graves of persons I 
 persume whose friends and relatives could not afford 
 the expense of genuine immortelles, but that they were 
 made out of fine wire, in imitation of the genuine im- 
 mortelles, of a peculiar tint, which made them look 
 somewhat as though they were made of flowers. 
 
 No wonder that they called them immortelles, for I 
 can see no reason why they should not last almost for- 
 ever, and, so in France, you can decorate the graves 
 of your dear departed at very slight expense by the 
 .use of these immortelles, which seem to be in that 
 country the national decoration. About fifty inter- 
 ments per day take place bere and two-thirds of 
 these are in large ditches (called /bsses communes, ov 
 " common ditches,") where a large number of coffins 
 are laid side by side, and in rows of three or four 
 deep, all of which are then covered over with dirt. 
 The charge for this, unless the dead person was an ab- 
 solute pauper, is about twenty francs, or $4, and they 
 usually erect near the spot a small wooden cross and 
 railing, which cost very little, and then perhaps plant 
 11 
 
162 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 a few flowers. After the lapse of five years, all these 
 railings and crosses about the fosses communes (or 
 promiscuous interments), are taken up, and the 
 materials given to the hospitals for fuel. 
 
 They have another class of graves called the fosses 
 temporaires (or temporary ditches), where for the sum 
 of about fifty francs, or $10, the dead can be allowed a 
 separate grave and may rest in peace for the space of ten 
 years, or for a " ground rent," in this case, of about $1 
 per year. In the latter case, each grave has a little rail- 
 ing, a garden, and a cross or chapel; ofcourse, the ground 
 for the most expensive tombs is purchased outright. 
 On many of the cheaper tombs you will see the words 
 priez pour^ moimriez pour elle, priez pour lui (" pray 
 for me," " pray for her," " pray for him, " ) or where 
 there is more than one in a tomb or grave, as often hap- 
 pens, as has been indicated above, you will see the words 
 priezpoureux^ " pray for them," which is the way they 
 have in France of asking for the prayers of the living 
 who pass by these tombs on behalf of the dear de- 
 parted. In this country they have a custom of visit- 
 ing the tombs of their relatives and friends continually 
 to pray by them, and hang up garlands of immortelles. 
 
 On All Soul's Day, which is the 2d of November, the 
 cemetery is crowded by persons who desire to pray for 
 the repose of the souls of their dear deceased friends 
 and relatives, and then a visitor beholds the sad side of 
 Parisian life, as contradistinguished from the careless 
 levity he usually sees on the Boulevards, and in the 
 cafe and theater. The cemetery of Pere la Chaise, 
 
** IMMORTELLES.'* 163 
 
 however famous as it is in point of neatness and 
 general appearance, forms a painful contrast to such 
 a beautiful city of the dead as Mt. Auburn (near 
 Boston), and is far inferior to the Spring Grove 
 Cemetery, near Cincinnati. Most of the ground, 
 especially the old part of the cemetery, is rough and 
 ill kept, and affords no such wealth of green sward, 
 smooth gravelled walks and fine and capacious drives, 
 as we are accustomed to see in the well cared for ceme- 
 teries of our largest American cities, or indeed, in the 
 cemeteries of some much smaller cities which might be 
 named. 
 
 This cemetery, being located on elevated ground, 
 which gives it the command of many parts of the 
 city of Paris, has figured as a military stronghold 
 more than once in this famous city of sieges, capitula- 
 tions and revolutions. When the armies of the Allies 
 who had combined to crush Bonaparte in 1814, ad- 
 vanced on Paris and besieged the city, this cemetery 
 was obstinately defended against three charges before 
 it was captured by the Kussians, and then they bivou- 
 acked in the cemetery, and cut down a great many of 
 the trees for fuel. Again, during the Commune^ in 
 May, 1871, this was their last stronghold, and from 
 this point they rained upon the devoted city of Paris 
 shells loaded with petroleum which, of course, caused 
 tremendous loss of life and property in the city which 
 had already suffered so severely at the hands of the 
 Prussians during a siege protracted for about six 
 months. 
 
164 A KNIGHT TEIVIPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 As the results of this reign of Anarchy are to 
 found here two huge graves which contain about a 
 thousand of the deluded, misguided wretches who died 
 "unwept, unhonored, and unsung," in the midst of 
 their atrocities, and whose corpses were piled together 
 " in one red burial blent" between layers of quick- 
 lime. Quite a contrast to this is presented by the 
 handsome monument which is to be seen here, erected 
 to the memory of 2,000 French soldiers who f^U while 
 fighting nobly during the siege in defense of La Belle 
 France, unlike the wretches above alluded to who died 
 ignobly, while attempting wantonly to throttle the 
 liberties of their native country, and to destroy the 
 grandest monuments of her glory. The pedestal is 
 adorned with sculptured wreathes of flowers and oak 
 leaves, and at each corner of the monument is a sol- 
 dier-like figure, one representing a soldier of the line? 
 a marine, an artilleryman, and a garde mobile, and 
 all appropriately inscribed. 
 
 Near the main entrance, you are taken to the 
 Jewish portion of the cemetery, where you see the 
 tomb of Eachel, the great tragic actress, and there 
 yoti see the name of Eothschild, which is such a 
 tower of strength in the commercial and financial 
 world. Not far from there is the famous tomb of 
 Ahelard and Heloise, which Mark Twain has so 
 humorously described in his "Innocents Abroad." 
 Abelard died in 1142, but Eloise pined away 
 for some twenty-two years longer before she 
 " shuffled off this mortal coil." This monument 
 
DISTINGUISHED DEAD. 165 
 
 has a rather neglected look, but on account of 
 the romance connected with the famous dead will 
 always be an object of interest to visitors. 
 Abehird and Heloise are resting, side by side, on top 
 of the sarcophagus, which is surrounded by a Gothic 
 chapel open on the four sides, but the tomb is sur- 
 rounded by a railing. 
 
 In the avenue of Acacias, we saw the tomb of 
 M. Thiers, the French statesman, and first Presi- 
 dent of the existing Republic, which was plain and 
 unassuming. I was especially anxious to find the 
 tomb of Marshal Ney, the " bravest of the brave," 
 who went over to Napoleon, " his old Commander," 
 after his return from Elba, with part of his army, 
 after swearing fidelity to the Bourbons, kissing the 
 hand of King Louis XVIII., tendering his services 
 and promising to bring the Great Napoleon in a 
 cage to Paris, either dead or alive. Alas ! brave, and 
 yet weak man, I have often thought how great a pity 
 it was that this hero of a hundred battles could not 
 have lost his life at Waterloo, where he had five horses 
 shot under him, and yet receiving scarcely a scratch 
 himself, instead of surviving that dire encounter to be 
 shot like a dog in the Luxembourg Gardens, only a 
 few months later, and to sleep in Pere La Chaise with- 
 out even a stone to mark the last resting place of the 
 chivalrous and gallant man who could not resist the 
 magnetism of Napoleon, whose eagles had owed not a 
 little of their military glory to the leadership of this 
 foremost of the Marshals of France, and of whom 
 
166 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Napoleon himself once said that he was worth 6,000 
 men. 
 
 I was anxious for another reason to see the grave 
 of Ney, which was this : There is a tradition connected 
 with the history of this hero, which makes him a native 
 of America, and a soldier of our Revolution, but 
 who afterwards " a soldier of fortune," enlisted under 
 the eagles of Napoleon, and with his good broad 
 sword carved his pathway to fame, and this tradition 
 formed the groundwork of a historical romance of in- 
 tense interest, because of its connection with the 
 career of Napoleon, which was written by my relative. 
 Miss Dupuy, who has been referred to above, and in 
 which story Ney figures under the name of Michael 
 Eudolph. Our guide, however, did not seem to know 
 exactly where it was situated, and as it had com- 
 menced raining, I was compelled to forego that pleas- 
 ure, and will finish this brief and imperfect sketch of 
 this famous city of the dead, with a reference to some 
 of the illustrious persons who lie buried here. 
 
 Many of the most famous of the Marshals of France 
 lie here, among them McDonald, who made the famous 
 charge at Wagram, where out of a division of 16,000 
 men, he came out with only 1,500 fit for duty, and 
 which won him his marshal's 6a!^o?«,Kellerman, Suchet, 
 Massena, Davoust, Gen. Gouvion St. Cyr, Baron 
 Larrey, the surgeon of Napoleon, Moliere and La 
 Fontaine, the famous authors, Emanuel Godoy, the 
 infamous Prince of Peace, De Seze, the courageous 
 and undaunted advocate who defended Louis XVI. 
 
THE PANTHEON. 167 
 
 before the Convention, at the imminent peril of his life, 
 and which noble and disinterested act, I believe, later 
 on resulted in his death by the guillotine, La Place and 
 Arago, the famous astronomers. Talma, the unrivalled 
 actor, and hundreds of others, noted in various walks 
 of life. While coming from the Place de la Bastille 
 to Pere La Chaise, we passed the Prison de la Koquette, 
 where are kept juvenile offenders, and where con- 
 demned felons are imprisoned while awaiting execu- 
 tion. 
 
 In front of these prisons the guillotine is erected 
 whenever an execution takes place, which is generally 
 from four to six a. m. Here during the last days of 
 the Commune in May, 1871, Archbishop Darboy and 
 five priests, thirty-seven other prisoners and sixty-six 
 gens d'artnes were murdered in cold blood by the hid- 
 eous wretches who outdid the sans culottes of the Reign 
 of Terror, almost, in their fiendish cruelty. There 
 are many more places of interest in this beautiful city 
 which we would like to visit, many beautiful churches 
 and historic spots which we would like to describe, but 
 time, and the projected limits of this faint attempt to 
 outline the chief features of our route of travel, forbid 
 that we shall do so, but there are a very few more to 
 which we will give time and space, at any rate, for a 
 passing notice. 
 
 Our party next were driven to the Pantheon, or 
 «' Temple of all the Gods," which is one of the most 
 remarkable buildings in the city of Paris, and 
 which is rich in historic associations. This church 
 
168 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 is also called the Church of St. Genevieve, and is truly 
 a magnificent building, three hundred and fifty feet 
 long, and two hundred and sixty wide, and it has 
 three rows of fine Corinthian columns to support the 
 grand portico. Upon the front is to be seen in very 
 large letters an inscription, the translation of which is, 
 "Our country recognizing her great men," and the 
 sculpture in the pediment above the portico contains 
 the statues of many of the illustrious citizens of 
 France. Among them are Mirabeau, who befriended 
 Marie Antoinette, but who died before the Eevolution 
 was accomplished ; Voltaire, Eousseau, Lafayette, 
 David, the painter, and others. The day we were 
 there services were going on, it being Sunday, and the 
 fat priest in the pulpit seemed to be making gestures 
 continually, which I presume is the usual style of 
 French oratory. 
 
 I also noticed a woman sitting at the entrance to 
 the chapel, which was separated from the rest of 
 the church by a railing, who received some money 
 from each person who entered while our party 
 were there, and I afterwards learned that where you 
 had a seat in any Catholic place of worship in the city 
 of Paris that you were charged a few centimes or sous 
 for it. We next descended to the vaults of the church, 
 some of which are so dark that our guide had to light 
 his lantern for us, in order that we might be able to 
 see how to get around. We saw there the memorial 
 tombs of Rousseau and Voltaire who, however, are not 
 buried there, though Mirabeau and Marat were, though 
 
MIEABEAU AND MARAT. 169 
 
 the two latter afterwards were depantlieonized by the 
 National Convention. The body of the wretch Marat, 
 who called himself during the Revolution the " friend 
 of the people," and who up to the very moment of his 
 death Avas clamoring constantly for more blood, was 
 pitched into a common sewer, fitting resting place for 
 him, blood-thirsty villain that he was, and the world 
 owes Charlotte Corday a vote of thanks for having 
 rid it of such a monster, and there can be no doubt 
 that she felt an inspiration from Heaven to immolate 
 herself upon the altar, that the flow of blood in 
 France might be the sooner stopped, and so it was. 
 On the tomb of Rousseau is an inscription which says : 
 "Here reposes the man of Nature and of Truth," 
 whom Byron calls — 
 
 '* The self -torturing SopMst, wild Eousseau, . 
 Tlie apostle of aftliction, he who threw 
 Enchantment over passion, and. from woe 
 Wrung overwhelming eloquence." 
 
 Here also is to be seen 2i facsimile of the Pantheon, 
 made of marble, on the scale of one to twenty-five, and 
 in these vaults a most wonderful echo is to be heard, 
 which is really startling in its intensity. We then drove 
 to Notre Dame Isle to see the Cathedral once more, 
 which has already been spoken of, and then the Morgue, 
 which is hard by the Cathedral, was also visited. There 
 is hardly a morning when the body of some unfortu- 
 nate, taken from the Seine, or found dead in the streets, 
 is not to be seen there for the purpose of being recog- 
 nized by the friends or relatives of the deceased, and 
 
170 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 they are exposed, naked above the waist, on marble 
 slabs, for three days, beneath jets of water, but for a 
 wonder there was no one exposed that morning, which 
 I was rather glad of than otherwise. All the dead are 
 photographed with all their gaping, hideous wounds 
 when they have died by violence or just as they may 
 appear when brought to the Morgue for recognition, and 
 these are placed in frames that, perchance, the origi- 
 nal may be recognized even after they are buried, 
 when they may then be identified and reinterred in ac- 
 cordance with the wishes of their relatives. 
 
 We sawseveral hundred of these photographs, some of 
 the mrepulsive and horrible to the last degree, and you 
 may imagine that they were not pleasant to look upon. 
 There was not much of a crowd there that day I sup- 
 pose as there was not the usual ghastly display to be 
 seen and so the lovers of the horrible had nothing to 
 feast their eyes upon, as is most generally the case 
 in the summer months, as the number of exposed 
 corpses is usually the largest at that season of the year. 
 By the way, while strolling with a friend one evening 
 along the Boulevard des Capucines, it occurred to me 
 that, as T had frequently ridden in a Broadway 'bus in 
 New York, and had also seen much of London from 
 the top of a 'bus, that I would also like to ride on a 
 Paris 'bus and see what I could see, so I proceeded at 
 once to put my design into execution, as I thought. 
 
 Accordingly, I threw up my hand as I should have 
 done in New York or London and cried out " /c^, ici, 
 monsieur, here, here, sir," to the first 'bus driver, who 
 
THE TEMPLE. . 171 
 
 came along, but to my surprise he only shrugged his 
 shoulders and grinned a little as I imagined, as much as 
 to say, I thought (when I learned, a little later on, why 
 it was that he had not stopped for us ) , * ' that is a blank- 
 ety-blank-greenhorn." Well, I tried one or two more 
 conducteurs with the same success, and had about con- 
 cluded to give up the project, when, by this time, we 
 had reached a place where two or three 'buses were 
 standing in a row, and a lot of people were buying 
 tickets at a little box-office on the sidewalk. I also 
 noticed that the conductor called off numbers, and the 
 person who held the number which the conductor called 
 off then got into the 'bus, and as soon as it contained 
 so many passengers, then the 'bus would drive off, 
 and the same process would be repeated with the next 
 bus. I bought me a ticket, too, and waited for some 
 time for my number to be called, but as dark was fast 
 coming on, I had to relinquish my design of looking at 
 Paris from the top of a 'bus. 
 
 So in that country it would seem that there is 
 not always room for one more in an omnibiis, as 
 seems to be the understanding with us. These 'buses 
 only run on certain boulevards, and to persons 
 who wish to go to certain streets at right-angles 
 with the particular street on which they are trav- 
 eling, they give another ticket which is called a cor- 
 respondence or transfer. There was one more place 
 of interest which I desired particularly to see, and this 
 was the Temple, or " clothes market" ("to such base 
 complexion are we come at last ") which from once 
 
172 -A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 having been the site of the ancient stronghold of one of 
 the Knights Templars of France, and the scene of many- 
 important events in French history, and which was 
 standing in all its ancient majesty and glory a century 
 ago, has actually been reduced to being the chief place 
 in Paris for the sale of " old clothes " at the hands of 
 eager Israelites " in whom," " as usual," " there is no 
 guile. "(?) Alas! 
 
 " The Knights are dust, 
 Their swords are rust, 
 Their souls are with the saints we trust." 
 
 But, nevertheless, a short historical sketch of this 
 ancient stronghold of the Order may not be without its 
 interest to Knights Templars of the present day. 
 
 The Temple, which was built in 1222, was an ancient 
 fortress and prison and formerly occupied the Boul- 
 evard du Temple and the Rue du Temple, but of which 
 nothing now remains. It was one of the two cora- 
 manderies of the Knights Templar at Paris in the 
 thirteenth century, and was as large and important a 
 feudal- fortress as the Louvre. Kings resided there, 
 and the treasures of the crown were often deposited 
 there. In 1312 the Order of Templars was suppressed 
 and its members burned at the stake, hanged, or dis- 
 persed with the greatest cruelty, under Philip of Yalois. 
 Whether they were guilty of the crimes, irregularities, 
 and conspiracies imputed to them is still a matter of 
 dispute, but of this matter we shall speak further on. 
 
 The Temple was then granted to the Knights of St. 
 John, who afterwards became the Knights of Malta. 
 
ANCIENT STRONGHOLD. 173 
 
 A century ago, a great part of the Temple was stand- 
 ing, surrounded by walls and defended by towers. 
 The church was circular, like that in the Temple at 
 London, and whence Temple Bar takes its name. 
 The Tower, a square and gloomy mass, flanked by 
 four round limits at the angles, was the prison in which 
 the unfortunate Louis XVI., with his queen, Marie 
 Antoinette, his son, the Dauphin, and his daughter, 
 afterwards the Duchess d ' Angouleme, and his sis- 
 ter, Madame Elizabeth, were confined from the 13th of 
 August, 1792, under circumstances of incredible 
 cruelty, privation, and insult. 
 
 The King perished on the scaffold January 21st, 
 1793, the Queen was sent to the Conciergerie on 
 August 2d, 1793, and died on the scaffold in the 
 following October, while Madame Elizabeth was 
 executed on May, the 10th, 1794. The unhappy 
 Dauphin, the heir to the haughty throne of the 
 Bourbons, was detained in this prison until his death 
 on the 8th of June, 1795, at which time he was not yet 
 eleven years old. His sister was the only one of the 
 Royal Family who escaped thescafi*old, being saved in 
 some inexplicable manner by the intervention of 
 powerful friends. The Dauphin was at first given to 
 the charge of a cobbler named Simon, a cruel and 
 utterly- depraved wretch, and his wife, by whom he 
 was treated with every. kind of indignity and cruelty, 
 and who tried, in every way, to corrupt and deprave 
 him. He was afterwards kept in solitary confinement 
 with deficient food and total neglect, and it is actually 
 
174 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 said that, for a period of two years, the poor child was 
 not allowed a change of bedding or of clothing. He 
 finally died in this prison of filth and misery on the 
 8th of June, 1795, and was buried in the church-yard 
 of St. Margaret, in the Faubourg St. Antoine. 
 
 The tower was used as a prison subsequently, and Sir 
 Sidney Smith, the hero of the siege of Acre, and who is 
 buried in Pere la Chaise, and Toussaint 1 ' Ouverture, 
 the Emperor of St. Domingo, captured at the French 
 occupation of that isle, Moreau, the hero of the 
 Rhine, and Pichegru, the conqueror of Holland, were 
 prisoners there. The tower was pulled down in 1811, 
 and the site built over, as alluded to above. The hotel 
 of the Grand Prior of the Order was built in the sev- 
 enteenth century, and in 1814 Louis XVIII. gave it to 
 the Princess of Conti to establish in it a convent of 
 Benedictine nuns who were to pray continually for 
 France. In 1848 the nuns were expelled, and the 
 building seized by the government. In 1854 it was 
 entirely pulled down, and the space laid out in the 
 present handsome square and garden. M. Lamartine, 
 the author of the history of the Girondists, gives the 
 only description, so far as I know, which can be found 
 in modern literature of the famous Temple in Paris, 
 and, with the hope that the subject will at least interest 
 every Knight Templar, though at the risk of making 
 the sketch too long, perhaps, we again quote from the 
 historian. He describes it as it appeared nearly a 
 hundred years ago, at the period of the French Revo- 
 lution. 
 
HISTORY or THE TEMPLE. 175 
 
 The Temple was an ancient and dismal fortress built 
 by the Monastic order of Templars, at the time when 
 sacerdotal and military theocracies, uniting in revolt 
 against princes with tyranny toward the people, con- 
 structed for themselves forts for monasteries, and 
 marched to dominion by the double force of the cross 
 and the sword. After their fall, their fortified dwelling 
 had remained standing as a wreck of past times, neg- 
 lected by the present. The chateau of the temple was 
 situated near the Faubourg St. Antoine, not far from 
 the Bastile ; it, with its buildings, its palace, its towers, 
 and its gardens constituted a vast space of solitude and 
 silence in the center of a most densely populated quar- 
 ter. The buildings were composed of a prieure or 
 palace of the Order, the apartments of which served 
 as an occasional dwelling for the Compte d'Artois, 
 when that prince came from Versailles to Paris. 
 
 This dilapidated palace contained apartments, furn- 
 ished with some ancient movables, beds, and linen for 
 the suite of the prince. A porter and his family were 
 its only hosts. A garden surrounded it, as empty 
 and neglected as the palace. At some steps from 
 the dwelling, was the donjon of the chateau, once 
 the fortification of the Temple. Its abrupt dark 
 mass rose on a simple spot of ground toward 
 the sky; two square towers, the one larger the 
 other smaller, were united to each other like a mass of 
 walls, each one having at its flank other small sus- 
 pended towers, in former days crowned with battle- 
 ments at their extremity, and these formed the 
 
176 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 principal^group of this construction. Some low and 
 more modern buildings abutted upon it, and seemed, 
 by disappearing in its shade, to raise its height. 
 
 This donjon and tower were constructed with large 
 stones cut in Paris, the excoriations and cicatrices of 
 which marbled the walls with yellow, livid spots upon 
 the black ground, which the rain and smoke incrust upon 
 the large buildings of the north of France. The large 
 tower, almost as high as the towers of a cathedral, was 
 not less than 60 feet from the base to the top. It en- 
 closed within its four walls a space of 30 square feet. 
 An enormous pile of masonry occupied the center of 
 the tower, and rose almost to the point of the edifice. 
 This pile, larger and wider at each story, leaned its 
 arches upon the exterior walls, and formed four suc- 
 cessive arched roofs, which contained four guard 
 rooms. 
 
 These halls communicated with other hidden and 
 more narrow places cut in the towers. The walls of the 
 edifice were nine feet thick. The embrasures of the 
 few windows which lighted it, very large at the 
 entrance of the hall, sunk as they became narrow, 
 even to the cross work of stone, and left only a feeble 
 and remote light to penetrate into the interior. Bars 
 of iron darkened these apartments still further. Two 
 doors, one of double oak wood, very thick, and studded 
 with very large diamond headed nails ; the other 
 plated with iron, and fortified with bars of the 
 same metal, divided each hall from the stair by which 
 one ascends to it. This winding staircase rose in a 
 
HISTORY OF THE TEMPLE. 177 
 
 spiral form to the platform of the edifice. Seven suc- 
 cessive wickets, or seven solid doors, shut by bolt and 
 key, were ranged from landing to landing, from the 
 base to the terrace. An exterior gallery crowned the 
 summit of the Donjon. One here made ten steps at 
 one turn. The least breath of air howled there like a 
 tempest. The noises of Paris inounted there, weaken- 
 ing as they came. 
 *** ** ***** 
 
 The small tower stood with its back to the large 
 one. It had also two little towers upon each of its 
 flanks. It was equalJy square and divided into four 
 stories. No interior communication existed between 
 these two continuous edifices ; each had its separate 
 staircase ; an open platform crowned this tower, in 
 place of a roof, as on the donjon. 
 *** ******* 
 
 The low arched doors, whose freestone mouldings 
 represented a bundle of pillars surmounted by broken 
 escutcheons of the Temple, led to the vestibules of 
 these two towers. Large alleys paved with flagstone 
 surrounded the building ; these were separated by 
 barriers of planks. The garden was overgrown by 
 vegetation; thick with coarse herbs and choked by 
 heaps of stone and gravel, the relics of demolished 
 buildings. A high and dull wall, like that of a cloister 
 made the place still more gloomy. This wall had only 
 one outlet, at the extremity of a long alley on the 
 Vieille Rue da Temple. Such were the exterior 
 aspect and interior disposition of this abode, when the 
 
 12 
 
178 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 owners of the Tuileries, Versailles, and Fontainebleau, 
 (the historian, of course, alludes to the famous prison- 
 ers of the Temple, King Louis XVI., and his Queen, 
 Marie Antionette), arrived at nightfall. These de- 
 serted halls no longer expected tenants since the Temp- 
 lars had left them, to go to the funeral pile of Jacques 
 Malay. These pyramidal towers empty, cold, and 
 mute for so many ages, more resembled the chambers 
 of a pyramid in the sepulchre of aPharoah of the west 
 than a residence. 
 
 This much for M. Lamartine's pen picture of the 
 temple, and we leave for the next chapter some ac- 
 count of the overthrow of the Order in France. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF THE OVEETHROW (NOT EX- 
 TERMINATION), OE THE KNIGHTS TEMPLAR. 
 
 tHE following historical sketch of the causes 
 which led to the overthrow (though, not by any 
 means, annihilation), of the Order of Knights Tem- 
 plars in France, in the fourteenth century, and the ac- 
 companying description of the scenes of thrilling 
 interest, and of horrible cruelty, which attended their 
 downfall, as the result of a nefarious and blood-cur- 
 
HISTORICAL SKETCH. 179 
 
 dling conspiracy which, if historians are to be believed 
 at all, was entered into between Philip le Bel, or 
 Philip the Fair, King of France, and Bertrand de Got, 
 Archbishop of Bordeaux, in the year 1305, has been 
 revised and condensed from " A historical Sketch of 
 the Last Days of the Templars," by the well known 
 writer G. P. K. James. We shall make no apology 
 for its length, but rely for its kind reception upon the 
 historical authenticity of the statements contained 
 herein, in addition to the supposed interest which every 
 Templar has, or should have, in anything well authen- 
 ticated concerning that chivalric Order, so without 
 further delay we will proceed in medias res at once. 
 ***** ** *** 
 
 The fatal battle of Tiberiad, and the fall of Jerusa- 
 lem, before the victorious arms of Saladin, terminated 
 the Christian Kingdom of Jerusalem, founded by God- 
 frey of Bouillon. True, the Franks continued to hold 
 for some years various strong places in the Holy 
 Land. True, the mighty arm of Kichard Coeur de 
 Lion brought temporary hope, and a brief prospect 
 of success, to the defeated and disheartened Christians 
 of Syria ; true, Henry of Champagne, Almaric, and 
 Isabella and others after their death, called themselves 
 sovereigns of Jerusalem ; but they never possessed 
 one stone of the Holy City ; nor were they nor their 
 followers permitted to set a foot within its walls, ex- 
 cept by permission of the victorious Moslem. 
 
 Vice, luxury, and idleness had taken possession of the 
 descendants of the early Crusaders; and the sole bul- 
 
180 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 warks of the Christian power were the two great 
 Orders of the Temple and Hospital. Often rivals, 
 often enemies, these bodies of military monks were 
 rarely found wanting in harmony and zeal at the 
 moment of danger and distress; and the misfortunes 
 which fell upon the Christian kingdom after the re- 
 turn of Richard I, to England, united them in defense 
 of the little which remained of all the fair possessions 
 which had been won from the infidels. An effort was 
 made shortly after to rouse the spirit of European 
 nations to a new Crusade. Theobald Yisconti, Arch- 
 deacon of Liege, had dwelt in the Holy Land, had 
 witnessed the miseries of the Christians, and had be- 
 come deeply interested in the recovery of Jerusalem. 
 He was still at Acre, when he was raised to the 
 Papal throne ; and his first efforts, on his return to 
 Europe, were directed to raise forces for the great 
 object of his heart. A general council was summoned 
 to meet at Lyons, in May, 1274, and the Grand Mas- 
 ters of the Temple and the Hospital attended, to advo- 
 cate the cause of the Syrian Christians. Monarchs and 
 princes gave their aid ; Rudolph of Hapsburg, Philip 
 of France, Michael Palaeologus, Charles of Anjou and 
 Sicily, with many another noble name, took part in 
 the movement; and every thing promised fair, when, 
 after a short period of rule, Gregory X., was removed 
 by death from the scene of his exertions, and the 
 trumpet of the Crusades ceased to sound in Europe. 
 Disappointed and desponding, the Grand Master of 
 the Temple, William de Beau-Jeu returned to Palestine. 
 
WILLIAM DE BEAU-JEU. 181 
 
 He took with him, it is true, a gallant band of 
 Knights of his own order, sent by the various Temple 
 Houses in England and France ; but he found Acre, 
 now the capital of the Christian power in the Holy- 
 Land, one scene of confusion, contest, and vice. 
 Nevertheless, the resolution of the Grand Master 
 remained unshaken; but it was all in vain that he 
 endeavored to inspire the same spirit into the breasts 
 of others; and all aid, but that of a few Italian free 
 companions, was refused by Europe to the petition of 
 the Syrian Christians. Negotiations with the infidel, 
 and gradual encroachments upon the Christian terri- 
 tory, filled up a considerable space of time, during 
 which a nominal peace existed. The walls of Acre, 
 t-'l^paired by Richard, had been strengthened at various 
 times since his death, and consisted of a double ram- 
 part, with immense towers at intervals of a stone's 
 throw. 
 
 Within the walls were four fortified buildings, which 
 might be considered as citadels, though the real cita- 
 del, or castle, was called the King's Tower. The 
 other three consisted of the house or convent of the 
 Knights Templars, the strongest and most important of 
 all, capable of containing several thousand men, and 
 furnished with immense and well constructed defenses, 
 the Convent of the Hospitalers and that of the Teu- 
 tonic Knights. The sea washed the walls of the city 
 on one side ; and an artificial port with fortifications 
 for its protection, completed the defenses of the place. 
 Toward the sea, however, the wall was single; but on 
 
182 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 the land side no means had been left unemployed to 
 strengthen the fortifications ; and a deep ditch sur- 
 rounded the whole city. About 12,000 fighting men, 
 besides the soldiers of the Temple and the Hospital, 
 formed the garrison of Acre. The whole weight of 
 the defense fell upon the military orders ; and it would 
 appear that the principal command was intrusted to 
 William de Beau-Jeu, Grand Master of the Temple, 
 whose age, experience, and skill well justified the 
 choice. 
 
 For six weeks the siege continued, and by night and 
 day the unequal contest raged between 200,000 infidels 
 and the small, but determined band of the defenders 
 of the doomed city. Still, however, William de 
 Beau-Jeu and the Grand Master of the Hospital con- 
 ducted the defense with unconquerable courage, and 
 for ten days even after the fall of the Cursed Tower, 
 which was one of the principal defenses of the city, 
 maintained the place against the entire force of the 
 Moslem. It would seem that on one occasion the town 
 was actually in the hands of the enemy, but a charge 
 of the Templars and Red Cross Knights .drove the 
 Mamelukes back through the break which they had 
 entered. At length, however, in spite of superhuman 
 skill and daring, the 18th of May, 1291, the fatal day 
 of the fall of Acre came. The defense was fierce and 
 resolute, for, though the Arabs say the Christians soon 
 fled, yet they admid themselves that the Mohammedans 
 did not effect an entrance for several hours. 
 
 Nothing, during this dreadful day , was wanting on the 
 
FALL OF ACRE. 183 
 
 part of the Grand Masters of the Temple and the Hos- 
 pital. For some time they fought, side by side, in the 
 streets, their Knights forming a living barrier with their 
 mailed bodies against the torrent of infidel war. Hun- 
 dreds and hundreds fell ; and, as a last resource, it was 
 agreed that while William de Beau-Jeu maintained the 
 struggle in the streets, the Grand Master of the Hos- 
 pital, with 500 Knights, should issue forth by a postern 
 and attack the enemy in flank. About this time fell 
 Mathew de Clermont, Marshal of St. John ; and 
 hardly had the Grand Master of the Hospital breathed 
 his last when William de Beau-Jeu himself was slain by 
 an arrow. 
 
 The rest of the Knights of the Temple who were left 
 alive retreated, fighting step by step, till they reached 
 their fortified convent ; and the Hospitalers who 
 had issued forth to attack the enemy's rear, were all 
 killed with the exception of seven, who with difficulty 
 made their way to the ships after having seen that the 
 place was actually taken. In the meantime, one build- 
 ing detached from all the rest, and a fortress in itself, 
 resisted all the efforts of the infidel forces. The Tem- 
 ple House of Acre covered a large space of ground, 
 and was surrounded by walls and towers almost as 
 strong as those of the city. 
 
 It is, perhaps, not very possible to describe it accur- 
 ately at present, but we know that within the walls it 
 contained a palace, a church, a market-place and a 
 monastery. There, as I have before shown, the surviv- 
 ing Knights of the Temple, somewhat more than 300 in 
 
184 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 number with the serving brethren, and a considerable 
 body of the inhabitants of Acre, among whom were 
 many women and children of high rank, found refuge 
 when the city itself fell. In all, it would appear from 
 the account of Aboul Nopassen that the Temple House 
 gave shelter to 4,000 men. 
 
 The Knights, as soon as the gates were closed, 
 and the place in a position of defense, held a chap- 
 ter of the Order and elected a Grand Master of the 
 name of Gaudini, to supply the place of their deceased 
 leader, the gallant, illustrious and lamented Will- 
 iam de Beau-Jeu. They then prepared to make 
 the most strenuous resistance. Their only hope 
 must have been to obtain honorable terms of surren- 
 der ; and it matters not much by whom the proposal 
 of a capitulation was first made. The Christians and 
 the Mohammedans differ. Certain it is, however, the 
 Sultan agreed to grant, and the Templars to accept, 
 terms highly honorable to themselves. 
 
 The lives of all persons at that moment within the 
 walls of the Temple were to be spared. Shipping was 
 to be placed at their disposal to carry them to some 
 other land, and they were to be permitted to retire in 
 peace whithersoever they pleased, with the fugitives 
 under their protection, and so much of their more 
 precious goods as each man could carry. As a pledge 
 of good faith, the Sultan sent the Templars a standard, 
 and a guard of three hundred Mussulman soldiers to 
 insure the due execution of the treaty. The standard 
 was placed on one of the towers of the Temple, and 
 
FLIGHT TO CYPRUS. 185 
 
 the Mussulman guard was admitted ; but a shameful 
 violation of the terms of the treaty very speedily took 
 place. The women had hidden themselves in the . 
 church of the Temple, but they did not escape the eyes 
 or the violence of the Moslem. Attracted by their 
 beauty, the guards sent for their protection forgot the 
 terms of the treaty, burst into the church and polluted 
 the sacred edifice by infamous violence. The Tem- 
 plars closed their gates at once and slaughtered the 
 criminals to a man. Immediately an attack from 
 without began upon the Temple House; but the 
 Knights made a gallant defense during the whole of 
 Saturday, the 19th of May. On the 20th, a deputation 
 was sent to explain to the Sultan the offense offered 
 by his Mamelukes, and the cause of their massacre. 
 The Franks and the Arabs differ much as to what 
 followed ; but both accounts are alike unfavorable to 
 the honor and justice of Khalil. The Christians de- 
 clare that he at once put the deputies to death, and 
 that Gaudini, the Grand Master, finding the place 
 could not be maintained, selected a certain number of 
 Knights, gathered together the treasures of the Order, 
 and all the holy relics it possessed, and escaping to the 
 port by a secret postern, got possession of a galley, 
 and reached Cyprus in safety. The Templars who 
 remained defended the great tower, called the Mas- 
 ter's Tower, with valor and success, till the walls were 
 undermined, and the building fell, crushing to death 
 all whom it contained. Such is the Christian account, 
 and there can be no doubt that Gaudini, with a small 
 
186 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 body of the brethren, escaped by sea. Thus fell the 
 Temple House at Acre. 
 
 The city was fired in four places ; the walls were 
 razed to the ground ; the churches, and the houses which 
 escaped the flames, were cast down; and nothing re- 
 mained of Acre but a pile of stones. The Order of the 
 Temple, however, still subsisted. Numerous precep- 
 tories were to be found in various Christian countries ; 
 Limisso, or Limesol, in Cyprus, became the chief estab- 
 lishment of the Order ; and a powerful fleet, great 
 wealth, and considerable bodies of troops rendered it 
 an object of terror to the infidel and of jealousy to 
 many Christian princes. Gaudini did not long sur- 
 vive the expulsion of the Christians from the Holy 
 Land. He died in Cyprus during the year 1295 ; 
 and James de Molay, of an illustrious family of Bur- 
 gundy, then Grand Preceptor in England, was elected 
 Grand Master of the Order. His predecessors had 
 fought and died in arms against the infidel ; but the 
 last Grand Master, James de Molay, was destined to 
 fall before the evil passions of his fellow-Christians. 
 
 The fate of theTemplars had, in the meantime, been 
 hard. The first reception by the King of Cyprus, 
 of the little band expelled from Syria, had been kind 
 and hospitable ; but the numbers, both of the Red 
 Cross Knights and the Knights of St. John, who now 
 flocked into the island, alarmed the monarch; and, 
 before Gaudini' s death, a system of petty annoyance 
 and exaction had begun, which the Templars resisted in 
 
JAMES DE MOLAY. 187 
 
 vain. Three great preceptories of the Order at Lime- 
 sol, Nicotia, and Gastira with several smaller Tjuild- 
 ings, already belonged to the Knights of the Temple; 
 but the King of Cyprus forbade any further establish- 
 ments, and endeavored to impose a capitation tax upon 
 the Order, in common with the rest of. the inhab- 
 itants of Cyprus. The soldiers of the Temple plead 
 exemption under many decrees from Eome ; but the 
 descendants of Guy of Lusignan seemed to have little 
 reverence for the Papal mandates ; and the disputes 
 between the king and the Order were running high, 
 almost to open war, when the brief and inglorious 
 career of Gaudini terminated. 
 
 James de Molay was a man of a very different char- 
 acter, firm but moderate, full of religious zeal with- 
 out fanaticism, devout, strict and disinterested. He 
 was in England as Grand Preceptor, when his eleva- 
 tion to the head of the Order was announced to him ; 
 and, after framing various wise regulations for the 
 government of the Knights in this country, he crossed 
 the sea to France, and acted as godfather to the son 
 of Philip the Fair, and then hastened to join his 
 brethren iu Cyprus. He found the dissension be- 
 tween the Knights and the Sovereign at its height, and 
 the rash efforts of Pope Boniface YIH., in favor of 
 the Templars only rendered the dispute more violent. 
 
 An opportunity soon presented itself, however, 
 of quitting the isle with dignity and propriety, and 
 James de Molay seized it at once. But by this 
 time, the preparations of Cuzan Khan, the great Em- 
 
188 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 peror of Persia who, though himself an idolater, had 
 married the daughter of Leon, King of Armenia, who 
 was herself a Christian princess of great beauty and 
 accomplishments, were about complete for the great- 
 est enterprise of his whole reign. An enterprise, too, 
 which but for the influence of his Christian wife, might 
 never have been undertaken, for she had not only won 
 her husband's almost unbounded affection, in spite of 
 his 600 to 700 concubines, but had obtained great 
 authority in his counsels, by her wisdom and beauty as 
 well as her prudent and judicious advice. Such was 
 her influence with the Monarch Cazan Khan, that he 
 not only allowed her the free exercise of her own reli- 
 gion, but even had a Christian temple erected for her 
 worship, and thus this Christian woman drew closer 
 and closer the bonds of alliance between her husband 
 and her fellow-Christians, and soon we shall see the 
 great results which flowed from this marriage between 
 an idolater and an earnest Christian woman. He had 
 resolved to drive the Mamelukes from Syria. He 
 demanded the co-operation of Georgia and Armenia. 
 He negotiated even with the Pope, and with the Chris- 
 tian princes of Europe ; and he agreed that Palestine, 
 if recovered from the Sultan of Egypt, should remain in 
 the possession of the Christians. Georgia and Armenia 
 readily answered to this call ; but the only European 
 Christians who joined him, were the Knights of the 
 Military Orders. 
 
 James de Molay did not hesitate ; but gathering 
 together as large a force of the Templars as could be 
 
ALLIANCE WITH CAZAN KHAN. 189 
 
 spared from the Preceptories, he set sail, early 
 in the year 1299, once more to plant the stand- 
 ard of the Cross on the shores of Syria. A large 
 Tartar, Mogul, and Armenian force had already en- 
 tered the territories over which the Sultan claimed 
 dominion, and had encamped among the ruins of 
 Antioch. The distance from Cyprus was but small ; 
 and the galleys of the Temple reached Suadeah in safety. 
 There, for the first time after many years, the great 
 standard of the Cross was raised once more by the sold- 
 iers of the Temple. Under the shadow of the Beauseant, 
 they marched on at once to join the forces of Cazan 
 Khan; and a division consisting of 30,000 men having 
 been placed under the command of James de Molay, 
 the combined forces of Knights, Moguls, Armenians, 
 and Franks commenced their march toward Damascus. 
 The rulers' of Egypt, however, were not inactive. 
 Levies were instantly made, and led rapidly into Pal- 
 estine. Damascus added her multitude, and at Hems, 
 on the high road between Aleppo and Damascus, the 
 two armies met and engaged. It seemed as if on 
 that action depended the fate of Asia, and perhaps, 
 the ascendancy of the Christian or Mohammedan 
 faith in the East, and the troops on either side fought 
 with desperate valor. But the forces of Islam were 
 totally defeated; and the victorious Moguls with their 
 Frankish allies, and the Templars and the Ked Cross 
 Knights, pursued and slaughtered them till night only 
 stopped the carnage. Aleppo, it would seem, had 
 already surrendered. Damascus fell an easy prey to 
 
190 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 the conquerors. The Mussulmans abandoned the 
 towns on the road to Jerusalem, and the Holy City 
 itself was left nearly undefended. 
 
 The Templars marched on and took possession of 
 Hierosolyma, and it was now that they celebrated the 
 feast of Easter in triumph and rejoicing. One more 
 was made effort by Cazan, to rouse the European Chris- 
 tians to seize the favorable opportunity, and had it been 
 successful, what might have been the result ? Unhappily 
 all were dull to the call, however, and though Pope Boni- 
 face in his letters lauds the Pagan Protector of Chris- 
 tianity, he exerted himself but little to second the efforts 
 of the Tartar, In the meantime, disorders broke out 
 in Iran, and Cazan was obliged to withdraw the greater 
 part of his army, in order to restore tranquility in his 
 own dominions. 
 
 He left, however, a considerable force under the 
 command of the Grand Master, who, pursuing, his 
 successful course drove the Mamalukes back to 
 Giiza, and forced them even, it is said, to take re- 
 fuge in the desert. Then comes a period of doubt 
 and darkness. Cazan, it would seem, trusted to 
 some Mohammedan officer, who betrayed his cause. 
 The Mussulmans of Syria rose in defense of their 
 religion; and, although supported by reinforcements 
 from Persia, De Molay was forced to retreat. The 
 struggle was, however, again renewed ; but the illness 
 of Cazan, his death in 1303, and the decline of the 
 Mogul power, deprived the Christians of their last 
 hope of recovering the Holy Land. 
 
HEADQUARTERS AT CYPRUS. 191 
 
 After all had been lost which the brief campaign of 
 1299 had obtained, a party of the Templars retreated 
 to a small island in the neighborhood of Tortosa, 
 where they were speedily attacked by an overwhelm- 
 ing force and the greater part of them were put to 
 death, or sent in chains to Egypt. Some of them 
 escaped, however, or were ransomed from captivity ; 
 and among them was James de Molay, who was re- 
 served for a fate more terrible than an honorable 
 
 death by the sword of the infidel. 
 
 ***** ***** 
 
 There is a vacancy in the history of the Templars 
 for several years. The Order was still numerous in 
 England, France, Spain, Portugal, and Italy ; but we 
 know little of their proceedings, from a short time 
 before the death of Cazan Khan, to the first open 
 commencement of the infamous persecution of the 
 Order, in the year 1307. The headquarters of the 
 Templars had been re-established in Cyprus ; and there 
 was the chief treasury of the Order under the care of 
 James de Molay, who was apparently unsuspicious of 
 any evil act meditated against a body of men who had 
 been for so many years, the main support of Christian 
 Palestine. 
 
 Nevertheless, numerous events had taken place 
 which might have shown this brave, dignified, and 
 amiable man, had he not been too confiding and 
 unsuspicious of character, the blow that menaced the 
 Order, its objects, and its cause. Right and justice 
 had been violated toward the Templars, in many coun- 
 
192 A KNIGHT TEMPLAK ABROAD. 
 
 tries. Two Edwards had siezed, without just cause, 
 considerable sums belonging to the Templars in Eng- 
 land. Many noblemen and Sovereign Princes had 
 infringed their rights and privileges. The clergy, 
 generally, hated and menaced them on account of the 
 immunities which had been granted them by various 
 popes. Separated from the rest of the world, and 
 deprived, to a great extent, of the ties of kindred, 
 they had few interests and feelings in common with 
 the laity. 
 
 Unfortunately for them, as well as for all Chris- 
 tendom, the spirit of the Crusades had died out ; Pales- 
 tine was lost; they were no longer admired as the 
 incarnation of a widespread enthusiasm ; they were 
 thought to be no longer needed as a barrier to Chris- 
 tian Europe ; but it was individual cupidity and per- 
 sonal malice which prompted their destruction, and 
 directed the blow. Philip, the then king of France, 
 was a man cold, calculating, remorseless, but ambi- 
 tious and avaricious to a high degree. He mounted 
 the French throne when only seventeen years old, and 
 very soon began to show the unprepossessing qualities, 
 which he afterwards displayed more fully. Oppres- 
 sion, borne impatiently and long, at length roused the 
 people to resistance. 
 
 Riots took place in many towns ; and in the capital 
 the people rose against the king and his ministers, 
 who by this time by reason of his oppressions, and 
 because he and his ministers by extortionate taxation, 
 had reduced the value of the coin to one-seventh 
 
SEIZURE OF STEONGHOLDS. 193 
 
 (which they were forced to take at its face value), had 
 changed his name from Philip the Fair, to Philip 
 the False Money-maker, which was significant, to 
 say the least, pillaged the houses of their oppressors 
 and even menaced the safety of the monarch. Forced 
 to fly from his palace, Philip took refuge in the strong 
 and defensible buildings of the Temple, where he was 
 received with open arms by the brave and hospitable 
 Knights who at once to a man drew their good broad- 
 swords in defense of their king and good friend, as 
 they believed. The people followed him in arms, in- 
 vested the Temple House, and threatened to starve 
 him into surrender. 
 
 For two days, no provisions were suffered to enter; 
 but the enthusiasm of theil' fury died away ; tran- 
 quility was restored in the capital ; and the king 
 escaped the fate which had seemed to menace him. 
 The Templars of Paris had given honorable shelter to 
 the monarch, closed their gates against his enemies, 
 and promised to protect his person. But there is 
 much reason to believe that he demanded more of 
 them, that he required them to act against his people, 
 but to their honor, be it said, the Templars refused. 
 It was forbidden to them by the most solemn obliga- 
 tions to draw the sword against their fellow-Chris- 
 tians, except in their own defense, and, although, as 
 individuals they might have, occasionally, violated this 
 rule, yet they had never done so in a body.. 
 
 Moreover, at that time the most vehement dissensions 
 existed between the King of France and the Papal See, 
 
 13 
 
194 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 going on to indecent violence on the part of Philip, 
 which the Templars could not see, without indignation, 
 exercised toward a Pontiff who had always shown him- 
 self favorable to their Order. This cause of offense 
 was probably not forgotten, yet Philip could dissem- 
 ble ; and it would appear that no plan for taking ven- 
 geance on the Templars, or stripping them of their 
 wealth, suggested itself, so long as the Papal throne 
 was occupied by a Pontiff, independent of the power 
 of France. The Popes had so completely committed 
 themselves to the support of the Order of the Temple, 
 that with no degree of decency could they withdraw 
 their protection ; and Alexander IV. , in the middle of 
 the eighteenth century, had even defended the Temp- 
 lars, both against the clergy and the monastic orders, 
 with a vigor and decision that repressed, for a time, 
 the jealousy which these military monks had excited. 
 Boniface VIII., died at the end of 1303, and was suc- 
 ceeded by a wiser and better Pontiff, Benedict II., 
 who was not wanting in firmness, nor wanting in mod- 
 eration. 
 
 It M^as at this period that the French King, know- 
 ing that under such a man as Benedict, it would be 
 impossible to execute a scheme for the destruction 
 of the Templars, affected with a common artifice of 
 tyrants, the greatest attachment toward those whose 
 ruin he at the same time meditated, although they had 
 afforded him a sanctuary when he was in the most im- 
 minent peril at the hands of his own subjects. In an 
 edict of 1304, by which he granted them numerous 
 
TEEACHERY OF PHILIP. 195 
 
 privileges in France, he burst forth in their praise in 
 such a fulsome manner as might well have put them 
 on their guard against the pitiless storm of persecu- 
 tion which was destined, so soon to break upon their 
 devoted heads. 
 
 "The works of piety and charity," he says, 
 in that ever memorable edict to which he so soon 
 gave the lie, by showing his duplicity in his wicked 
 action toward the Templars, *' the magnificent 
 liberality which the holy Order of the Temple has 
 exercised at all times and in all places, and their 
 noble courage, which ought still to be excited to 
 the perilous defense of the Holy Land, have deter- 
 mined us to spread our royal bounty over the 
 Order^ and its Knights, in our kingdom, and to 
 afford special marks of favor to an institution for 
 which we entertain a sincere predilection." " Put not 
 your trust in Princes " is an axiom however, coeval with 
 the earliest dynasty, almost, and favors and praises 
 from a treacherous and unscrupulous monarch ought, 
 perhaps, to have caused alarm; but Philip had, as yet, 
 displayed no enmity of any kind toward the Order, 
 confident of its strength and proud of its services. 
 
 In addition to this, not only had the Temple Master 
 James de Molay held the infant son of the French king at 
 the baptismal font, but the Temple House at Paris had 
 been the Monarch's chosen place of refuge in the hour 
 of danger. And besides all that, the Order numbered 
 among its knights, nobles of the highest rank in 
 France and princes allied to the blood Royal. So for 
 
196 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 all these reasons (and their confidence seemed fully 
 justified by the circumstances), they had no fear, no 
 suspicion even, when their ruin was determined, 
 and nothing was wanting but the occasion. The long 
 desired opportunity came at last, and it came in 
 this wise. 
 
 On the 7th of July, 1304, died Benedict XI., 
 the friend and ally of the Templars, and with him 
 fell the last bulwark of the Order; for, at once, in- 
 trigues began for the tiara on which, as soon as trans- 
 pired, the fate of the Order of the Temple de- 
 pended. Philip already had his eye on a man after 
 his own heart, upon whom he felt he could depend in 
 this emergency, and who for a price which he now 
 had at his own disposal, he knew could be prevailed 
 upon to act as the main instrument in carrying out his 
 fell design, against the Order of the Temple. This man 
 was the licentious and avaricious Bertrand de Got, 
 then Archbishop of Bordeaux, whom Philip, who hud 
 the controlling voice in the election of a successor to 
 the pious Pope Benedict XI. sent for, and to whom he 
 made five conditions, and the price of his accession to 
 the Papal See, was to be his unconditional assent to 
 these five propositions. 
 
 History gives an account of the first four of 
 these conditions, but with them we have nothing 
 to do; our whole concern is with the fifth of these 
 propositions, which Philip did not then communi- 
 cate to him, but the nature of which, he informed 
 him, that he would let him know at the joroper time 
 
BERTRAND DE GOT. 197 
 
 and place. The wicked Archbishop agreed, although 
 wicked and unprincipled as he was, be it said, to his 
 honor with some reluctance, to the five conditions, but 
 the price was too tempting to his avaricious soul to be 
 refuped ; as Sir Eobert Walpole once said in the English 
 Parliament, "every man has his price," and Philip 
 knew well how to reach the unscrupulous Bishop whom 
 he had picked out as his tool in his proposed villainy 
 and the unhallowed compact was duly signed. 
 
 Bertrand de Got received the reward of his infamy, 
 was elected Pope, and assumed the name of Clement 
 V. He at once proceeded to execute the four specified 
 conditions of his compact, and now what was the fifth, 
 which was of such a nature that even Philip, as well as 
 he knew the wickedness and hardihood of the tool 
 which he had just bought body and soul with a tiara, 
 did not dare disclose it to him all at once, in all its 
 atrocity. A French historian has said: " It has never 
 been positively known what was the fifth article of the 
 convention ; but all historians have conjectured, per- 
 haps, from the occurrences which followed, that it was 
 the destruction T)f the Order of the Temple." Can 
 any one doubt it? Philip might well keep it secret, 
 even from the infamous wretch whose soul he was pur- 
 chasing, till he had in some degree prepared the way for 
 a proposal, perhaps, the most monstrous and the most 
 frightful that ever was made by one man to another. 
 The rules of the Temple were severe ; burdensome to 
 a degree, which could only be rendered tolerable by the 
 sustaining power of enthusiasm . Some must have failed 
 
198 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 in the trial. Some must have yielded to temptation. 
 Some must have bent under the load. It was known 
 that some had been expelled from the Order; that 
 some had been severely punished ; that others had 
 been degraded and disgraced. A singular coincidence 
 now took place. 
 
 The new Pope, Bertrand de Grot, had hardly seated 
 himself in the chair of St. Peter, before rumors began 
 to be spread through Europe, which accused the Order 
 of the Temple of heresy, impiety, and even of crimes so 
 infamous and so horrible, that they can not be so much 
 as hinted at upon a page intended for the sight of all. 
 
 The probable origin of these rumors (for they were 
 nothing more), may, perhaps, be reduced to this with 
 reasonable certainty. Two criminals condemned for 
 civil offenses, one a citizen of Beziers, another, an 
 apostate brother of the Temple, were confined in the 
 same dungeon ia Paris, previous to execution. Con- 
 fessors, it seems, were not in those days allowed to 
 ordinary criminals condemned to death; and these two 
 men detailed, or confessed to each other, their several 
 crimes. The degraded Templar charged his Order 
 with a multitudes of iniquities, and the citizen of 
 Beziers (no doubt seeing a chance of saving his own 
 life in the revelation of what he considered a valuable 
 secret), announced to his jailers that he had most im- 
 portant disclosures to make regarding the Templars, 
 and asked for an audience of the king in person. 
 
 The two prisoners in consequence were brought before 
 the king, who, no doubt, listened to their tale, whether 
 
NEFARIOUS CONSPIRACY. 199 
 
 he believed it or not (but we easily believe what we 
 wish to), with ill-concealed satisfaction, as he was 
 thereby furnished with the pretext which he had long 
 been seeking for an onslaught on the Order. *' Give 
 me but one line of a man's handwriting," said the 
 unscrupulous Cardinal Richelieu, '* and I will bring 
 his head to the block ; " Philip here had sufficient testi- 
 mony to justify him in putting into execution his 
 nefarious project, and the doom of the Templars was 
 sealed from that hour. Be this as it may, it is univer- 
 sally conceded that the first charge against this noble 
 Christian phalanx, rested on the unconfirmed and 
 worthless statements of one or two condemned crimi- 
 nals ; but what booted that to the blood thirsty King of 
 France, as long as he was enabled thus to gain his own 
 ends? When these statements were first made does 
 not exactly appear; but it would seem that Philip and 
 Pope Clement desired extremely to get the Grand 
 Master, James de Molay, into their power, before they 
 suffered their nefarious conspiracy against this noble, 
 unsuspecting Order to become apparent. 
 
 Even Bertrand de Got , unscrupulous and hard-hearted 
 as he was, heard, with amazement and incredulity, the 
 charges against the Templars when they were first re- 
 vealed to him, audit is said that he pronounced them as 
 "incredible, impossible, and unheard of." Philip, 
 however, like another Shylockas he was, clamored for 
 the pound of Christian flesh, and his creature Clement 
 was compelled to comply with his wicked compact, 
 not only in the spirit but to the very letter. 
 
200 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 In June, 1306, Clement invited the Grand Masters 
 of the Temple, and the Hospital, to join him in France 
 without delay, and as secretly, and with as small a 
 retinue as possible, in order (as he pretended) to 
 concert with him, measures for the recovery of the Holy 
 Land. The wily prelate well knew how best to reach 
 the noble heart and unsuspecting mind of the Grand 
 Master James de Molay, who, himself the very embodi- 
 ment of chivalry and honor, in fact another Chevalier 
 Bayard, sans peur, et sans reproche, and always possess- 
 ing mens sibi conscia recti^ was the last person in the 
 world to suspect of perfidy the King of France, who 
 had been the self-invited guest of the Templars in a 
 time of deadly peril, and the Pope, whose predecessors 
 had been so favorably disposed to the Order, of which 
 he was the venerated head. 
 
 The Grand Master of the Hospital more worldly 
 wise, came not, but James de Molay suspecting 
 naught of treachery, set out for Paris at once. He 
 was at this time in Cyprus ; and he took with him 
 sixty knights to confer with the Pope. He brought 
 with him a considerable amount of treasure, which 
 he deposited in the Temple House at Paris, in the 
 beginning of the year 1307, and after seeing the 
 King of France, proceeded to Poitiers, where the Pope 
 then resided. He was there detained for a time with 
 proposals of a different nature altogether from what 
 he had expected. Something was said, indeed, con- 
 cerning another Crusade to the Holy Land, but the 
 Pope mainly dwelt upon the expediency of consoli- 
 
CHARGES PREFERRED. 201 
 
 dating the Orders of the Temple, and the Hospital. 
 
 There matters were discussed at some length, but the 
 Grand Master declined to accede to these propositions, 
 saying that the rumors of dissensions between these 
 great military Orders were wholly unfounded, and that 
 the only rivalry that existed between them was, as to 
 " who could best worh, and best agree. ^^ In the mean 
 time, the King of France was secretly preparing his 
 plans for the final catastrophe. Secret letters were 
 written in September, 1307, to the officers of the king 
 all over France, charging the Templars with the most 
 atrocious crimes, with crimes so monstrous, so absurd, 
 and so incredible as to carry with them their own 
 refutation; among them charging this order,. which has 
 lost thousands of lives and millions of treasure, in 
 upholding the Cross of the Savior, with heresy, idola- 
 try, sorcery and most improbable of all to a true 
 Templar, or Knight of the Eed Cross, the renunciation 
 of the Christian religion, and the mockery of the Cross 
 itself, the sacred emblem which they had worn upon 
 their breasts in many a hard fought battle with the 
 infidel. 
 
 The only crime in the history of France, which 
 can compare in the extent of its wickedness and 
 cruelty, with the overthrow of the Order of the Tem- 
 plars, is the massacre of St. Bartholomew on the 24th 
 of August, 1572, at the hands of the infamous Charles 
 IX., when the innocent Huguenots were butchered by 
 thousands for the sake of the Christian religion, and as 
 we shall see a little further along, these two of the 
 
202 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 wickedest kings of France met with a righteous retri- 
 bution. 
 
 Truly, " the mills of the gods grind slowly, but 
 they grind exceedingly small," — but to resume our 
 narrative. In these letters he commanded his officers 
 in the provinces, to make preparations secretly to seize 
 upon all the Templars, their houses and property, and 
 then to subject them to the torture, if it should he deemed 
 necessary. The king's commands were executed. On 
 the night of Friday, the 13th of October, 1307, every 
 Temple House was seized throughout the realm of 
 France, and all the Knights and serving brethren made 
 prisoners. The moment the first act of the drama was 
 successfully accomplished, (for they had no suspicion of 
 treachery, and hence were taken wholly unawares, and 
 of course could make no defense) and the gallant 
 Knights secured, of whom there were at that time we 
 are assured 15,000 in the various Preceptories of 
 Europe, Philip threw off his mask, and trumpeted 
 forth his foul accusations against them to the world. 
 
 He had, just before seizing upon their persons com 
 municated to several neighboring Monarchs these foul 
 and calumnious charges, in the hope that, by securing 
 their co-operation at once, he might thus be enabled to 
 overthrow the Order throughout the length and breadth 
 of Europe, but, although it was an age of superstition 
 and mental and moral darkness, yet these charges were 
 so utterly at variance with the outward life and pro- 
 fessions of the Order for centuries, that, at first, they 
 were scouted at, as wholly absurd and improbable. 
 
TOKTUKE AND IMPRISONMENT. 203 
 
 Even Edward 11., of England, weak though he was, 
 and although son-in-law to the French king, could 
 scarcely credit the tale at first. 
 
 In Germany and Spain, to their honor be it said, the 
 noble Order was acquitted at once, of all guilt; and the 
 people of Cyprus bore honorable testimony to the be- 
 havior of the Templars in that island. But in Italy, Si- 
 cily, and France, the persecution raged, and it was not 
 long before the arguments of Philip, and the anathema 
 of Pope Clement, drove King Edward to a similar injus- 
 tice against the Templars of England. France, how- 
 ever, is the country to which our attention must 
 especially be directed, for here it was that the horrible 
 plot was formed, and here it was that it was consum- 
 mated with a fiendishness and cruelty which is almost 
 without a parallel in history. 
 
 Every step taken by these two confederates in 
 iniquity, Philip and Clement, shows the baseness of 
 their proceeding. Preaching friars were tutored in 
 their story by these monsters, and were ordered to 
 declaim against the Order in all the public places of 
 the kingdom, and in any other age but that, the 
 charges made against these soldiers of the Cross 
 would have been received with shouts of derision, 
 aud those who made them would have been tied to 
 the cart's tail and beaten with the knout for their 
 impudent assurance, but in that age the charges, 
 unfortunately, found credence with many of the lower 
 orders, and even with some of the more enlightened 
 classes. 
 
204 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Philip endeavored at first to draw from the Templars, 
 or some of them, at least, by a promise of pardon on 
 the one hand, or by the threat of instant death, or the 
 horrors of the torture on the other, (which are simply 
 indescribable), such a confession of guilt as would jus- 
 tify him in the eyes of the world, for his iniquitous and 
 and high-handed proceedings. But these soldiers of 
 the Cross had faced death too often, and in too many 
 different ways, to allow themselves to be thus intimi- 
 dated and disgraced. He was not very patient, how- 
 ever, and after a few days vainly spent in coaxing and 
 threatening them by turns, Philip turned them over to 
 the tender mercies (?) of the Dominican Friars, who 
 were noted throughout Europe for their inhumanity 
 and cruelty, and who at this time, gave the world a fore- 
 taste of the horrors of the bloody Spanish Inquisition 
 of succeeding centuries. 
 
 Again the Temple House at Paris, whence had 
 issued forth more than once a host of heroes to defend 
 the Holy Land, was crowded with gallant Knights, but 
 alas ! how changed their circumstances. Instead of a 
 noble band of warriors, all armed and equipped in 
 their glittering coats of mail, and with swords up- 
 lifted for the contest with the infidel, there they were-, 
 a band of wretched prisoners, hopeless and helpless, 
 and most lamentable fact of all, captives to their 
 fellow Christians, in the power of enemies more 
 pitiless than the Saracens, they lay in chains, each in 
 solitary confinement covered with foul accusations, and 
 expecting naught but death. 
 
DOBIINICAN FKIARS. 205 
 
 Every thing was gone from then); their wealth, ob- 
 tained by no dishonest means, nor by oppression, but 
 mostly the gift of those who admired this band of Chris- 
 tian warriors, was taken from them, and naught was 
 left even to pay an advocate to plead their cause. The 
 Grand Master himself, fared no better than his fel- 
 lows, and the only thing to vary the dreadful monot- 
 ony of their lives was the frequent ordeal of the 
 torture. We will not harrow the feelings of our read- 
 ers by attempting to describe the various sorts of 
 torture to which these noble Templars were subjected 
 by those devils in human form — the Dominican 
 Friars — to whom, as said above, full control in the 
 matter was given, but suffice it to say, that they had 
 gone through a long apprenticeship to the trade of 
 torture, and had become perfect masters of their hor- 
 rible craft. 
 
 It is said that, true to the traditions of the Order 
 for unshtinking bravery, thirty-six Templars ac- 
 tually died under the torture, without uttering a 
 single word to criminate their brethren. Many more 
 came from the torture-chamber crippled for life, 
 but not a man wavered until, as a last resort, forged 
 letters were shown them purporting to come from the 
 Grand Master, and exhorting them to admit their guilt. 
 About seventy of the Order, thinking no doubt that 
 they might follow the example of their illustrious 
 Grand Master without shame or the sacrifice of their 
 manhood, or even proving recreant to their solemn 
 vows of Knighthood, confessed, while under the tor- 
 
206 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 ture, anything that their cruel inquisitors might dictate 
 to them, but they saved only their lives for the time 
 being; they were not yet free from the toils of their 
 relentless persecutors, and at this time, such was the 
 system of murder and torture to be seen continually 
 going on in every Templar Preceptory in France. 
 
 Soon, all Europe rang with the stories of the cru- 
 elty of the king of France, and Pope Clement himself 
 pretended to be shocked at the awful disclosures. He 
 ordered a commission to be appointed to look into the 
 matter, but the result answered little to his expecta- 
 tions. The Knights, when brought before this com- 
 mission revoked all confessions they had made while 
 under torture, reasserting the innocence of the Order 
 and the entire untruth of the charores made ao-ainst 
 them, and further announced, that if any further ac- 
 knowledgments should be drawn from them by a 
 re-application of the torture, the world should regard 
 them as false. They were allowed no counsel, nor any 
 aid from sympathizing friends. Every thing was 
 denied them, and they were treated with every outrage 
 and indignity, as though they were the veriest crim- 
 inals. 
 
 Finally, James de Molay, the Grand Master, who 
 had in the meantime been a prisoner at Corbe, 
 was himself brought before the commission, in Novem- 
 ber, 1309, and defended himself and his Order, at one 
 and the same time, with manly boldness. He said, 
 among other things, that he was " a plain, unlettered 
 man, not instructed in the law, but always ready to 
 
ASTOUNDING TREACHERY. 207 
 
 defend himself and the Order, against the unjust and 
 infamous accusations which had been brought against 
 them, as best he might." He showed that he and 
 his brethren had been stripped of everything, that he, 
 the Grand Master, himself, who had lately controlled 
 almost limitless wealth was dependent even for his 
 bread, upon charity, and that he further proposed, if 
 he were allowed the aid of an advocate, to prove the 
 innocence of himself and his entire Order, even to the 
 satisfaction of their enemies. 
 
 At this juncture, to his entire amazement, as may 
 well be conjectured, a paper was shown him which pur- 
 ported to be his own confession, made at Chinon, and 
 attested by certain of the Cardinals( !). He was 
 speechless with amazement for a moment, and it is 
 said that he three times made the sign of the Cross, 
 as though he were beset by evil spirits. At last 
 his honest indignation burst forth, and he passion- 
 ately proclaimed those who signed it as willful liars, 
 and invoked Grod to" send upon them the punishment 
 which the ancient enemies of the Templars, the 
 Saracens, were wont to inflict upon malicious slander- 
 ers. " Their bellies," he exclaimed, " they rip open, 
 and their heads they cut off." All this and more he 
 said, but his words reached unbelieving, or at any rate, 
 hard-hearted listeners. The commissioners dared 
 neither to excommunicate him, nor put him to death 
 just then ; for his time was not yet come. 
 
 In all, no less than five hundred Knights were exam- 
 ined before the commission, and they all, to a man, 
 
208 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 protested their innocence as vehemently as did their 
 Grand Master. Philip saw that he was being foiled 
 in his fell design, and turned the case over to a 
 new tribunal, which better answered his wicked pur- 
 pose. This new tool was the lately appointed Arch- 
 bishop of Sens, who seems even to have been too 
 hardened to meet the approbation of Clement him- 
 self, as he protested against his appointment. 
 
 To this new tribunal the Templars were handed 
 over, and truly, he did not disappoint his master's 
 expectations. Every Templar who was dragged before 
 this monster was allowed the option of renewing the 
 confession which he had recanted, or he died at the 
 stake at once. Glorious army of martyrs ! to a man, 
 they refused to the last to admit the crimes of which 
 they were accused, and in their dying agonies, they 
 ceased not to declare that they were given up to death, 
 unjustly and without cause. It is said that fifty-nine 
 were burned at the stake in one day by this fiend 
 incarnate, and not one denied his Lord and Master. 
 
 Such awful scenes were common in other parts of 
 France as well, but the Grand Master with some other 
 distinguished Preceptors of the Order, still languished 
 in their cheerless prison cells. For almost six years, 
 which must have seemed a century to the unhappy 
 prisoner, James de Molay remained a captive, and, at 
 frequent intervals, he was subjected to the torture, 
 and we know not whether he confessed at all in a 
 moment of weakness (and who shall blame him if he 
 did, at such an awful moment, forswear the Order), or 
 
DEATH AT THE STAKE. 209 
 
 if SO, what was the nature of that confession, but from 
 what we know of the character of the man, we should 
 be inclined to think that he stood firm to the last, 
 and that the confession which he had so boldly and 
 vehemently pronounced a forgery, was the document 
 upon which his inquisitors mainly relied in order to 
 vilify, and finally overthrow the Order. 
 **** ****** 
 
 Finally, however, we reach the last sad act in the 
 drama, and ring down the curtain on the last days of 
 the Templars. On the eighteenth day of March, 1313, 
 a scaffold was erected in front of Notre Dame, and the 
 news was heralded all over Paris, that the leading 
 officers of the Temple would that day admit their guilt 
 of all that was charged against them, and thus fully 
 justify (?) the King and the Pope, for all they had done 
 against them. Their confession was said to have been 
 made before the Archbishop of Sens (a veracious wit- 
 ness truly) and several other suborned perjurers 
 of the King 
 
 A great multitude was gathered together to wit- 
 ness this extraordinary scene. At the appointed 
 hour, surrounded by the king's satellites, and 
 loaded with chains, the Last Grand Master of the 
 Templars, accompanied by three other prominent offi- 
 cers of the Order, were led forward to the front of the 
 scafibld. The alleged confession was then read to the 
 four Knights and they were asked to give their assent 
 to the same. Two of them, the Visitor-General and 
 the Grand Preceptor of Aquitaine, awed by the pres- 
 
 14 
 
210 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD, 
 
 ence of an awful death, bowed their heads as a token of 
 assent, but to their everlasting honor be it said the 
 noble Grand Master, and his subordinate, Guy of Lusig- 
 nan, the Grand Preceptor of the Order equally un- 
 daunted, although they well knew the consequence of 
 their boldness, proclaimed aloud the falseness of the 
 confession, and declared that it was a sin, alike in the 
 eyes of God and man, to proclaim a falsehood. 
 
 *' The only thing for which I reproach myself," said 
 the Grand Master on this memorable occasion, " is that 
 I may possibly, under the agony of the torture, have 
 admitted untruly, horrible offences against an Order, 
 which has ever nobly served, and defended Christen- 
 dom." These noble words sealed the fate of the 
 Grand Master, and his fearless companion, and that 
 very evening the two martyrs died at the stake on 
 Notre Dame Island, victims of one of the most infa- 
 mous conspiracies in the annals of history. The mur- 
 derer, however, did not long survive their victims : 
 Philip, King of France, died the next year, as did 
 several centuries later, Charles IX., the murderer of 
 St. Bartholomew, by a singular coincidence, also of a 
 lingering disease, unknown to the most learned physi- 
 cians of his time, and his infamous ally, the bloody 
 Pontiff, died before his master, and his body was par- 
 tially consumed by fire, set, it is said, by the hand of 
 his own nephew. 
 
 Enguerand de Marigny, likewise, "the power 
 behind the throne, which was mightier than the throne 
 itself j" who is supposed to have prompted and 
 
RETRIBUTION. 211 
 
 carried out most of the iniquitous acts of Philip 
 the Fair, and who had in the words of the monk of St. 
 Dennis " become more, so to say, than Mayor of the 
 palace, was hanged in 1315, upon the gibbet of the 
 common robbers. They had hounded to death most 
 cruelly the Soldiers of the Cross, and hath not the 
 Lord said, " Vengeance is mine, and I will repay." 
 Edward II., King of England, who had in that country 
 also persecuted the Templars, and confiscated their 
 wealth, did not fare much better than his father-in- 
 law, Philip, the False Money-maker, as he was deposed 
 from his throne by his Queen and his son, and died 
 mysteriously in prison. Thus was overthrown, by the 
 machinations of wicked and unscrupulous monarchs, 
 assisted by their conscienceless tools (though, thanks be 
 to Him who doeth all things well, not exterminated), 
 the Order of the Temple, and thus, in perfect keeping 
 with the eternal fitness of things, perished those who 
 had so infamously, and so unjustly persecuted it. 
 * ********* 
 
 *' From the election of Hugh De Pay ens (1118) to 
 the death of Jaques de Molay (1313), there were 22 
 Grand Masters of the Order. After the overthrow of 
 the Order of Knights Templars throughout Europe, 
 Dennis I., King of Portugal, in 1317, solicited of Pope 
 John XXII., permission to re-establish the " Order of 
 the Temple " in his dominions, under the name of the 
 " Order of Christ," and to restore to it the possessions 
 which had been wrested from the Templars. The 
 Pope consented, approved the statutes, and in 1319, 
 
212 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 confirmed the institution. The Grand Mastership was 
 vested in the King of Portugal, and the Order having 
 been secularized in 1789, the members were divided 
 into three classes. It was designated " the most 
 noble Order," and none but those nobly descended, and 
 of unsullied character, could be admitted. Thus, and 
 through other sources, was the existence of the Order 
 protected from complete annihilation." 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 PARIS CONTINUED, AND GENEVA. 
 
 , MONG the sights of Paris must not be omitted the 
 Vendome Column, located in the Place Ven- 
 dome, which is a handsome square with the houses, all 
 of exactly the same kind of architecture, and designed 
 by the famous Mansard, which gives the square, which 
 has but one street running through it, a uniform 
 appearance and were it not for the two openings made 
 by this street, the square would look for all the world 
 like one huge quadrangle on the same plan as the Uni- 
 versity buildings at Cambridge. The column was 
 erected by Napoleon, to commemorate his famous 
 campaign of 1805, when he utterly destroyed the armies 
 of Austria, Prussia, and Eussia, in an unexampled 
 series of victories, the glory of which he never subse- 
 quently equaled. It was begun in 1806, and finished 
 in 1810, in imitation of the famous Trajan and Aure- 
 lian columns at Kome. 
 
VENDOME COLUMN. 213 
 
 The shaft of the column is of stone, cased on the 
 outside with bronze from the metal of captured can- 
 non, in a series of bas-reliefs representing the battles 
 and victories of the French, during the campaign in 
 question. The figures are about eight feet high, and 
 the whole forms a spiral riband eight hundred and 
 ninety feet long, winding around the column from the 
 base entirely to the top, and this is decidedly the 
 finest column to be seen in the city of Paris. The 
 column, including the pedestal to the base of the 
 statue is one hundred and forty-three feet high, and 
 the statue twelve feet. The first statue which crowned 
 the summit represented Napoleon in a Roman toga^ 
 which was taken down and melted at the Restoration. 
 
 However, on May 16th, 1871, the Commune had 
 already thoroughly resolved to destroy every vestige of 
 civilization, art and culture, if possible, and to that 
 end they pulled down the column and threw the pieces 
 into the Seine, but the government of M. Thiers, after 
 the suppression of the Commune, very wisely and 
 patriotically decided almost immediately to repair it 
 as far as practicable, and replace it, and they had the 
 pieces hunted for in the river Seine, and actually 
 found almost all of them, had the column repaired and 
 set up again in a short time, and to-day it stands there 
 as of old, showing the triumph of a correct public 
 spirit over the spirit of anarchy and misrule, which so 
 unhappily for the public weal stalked abroad during 
 the sway of the Commune. 
 
 My view of the sights of Paris was completed by 
 
214 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 a visit to the Grand Opera House, where our 
 party paid about ten francs, or $2, for a box which 
 held four people in the fifth tier of boxes, but they 
 are so small' that only two persons at a time who 
 are in the box, can see much of what transpires on the 
 stage. This Opera House is the largest theater in the 
 world, and covers an area of nearly three acres, al- 
 though it has less seating capacity than the theaters 
 of La Scala in Milan and San Carlo at Naples. Be- 
 tween four hundred and five hundred houses were de- 
 molished to provide the site which alone cost about 
 $2,000,000. The building was in the process of con- 
 struction for thirteen years (from 1861 to 1874), and 
 cost nearly $20,000,000. It is entirely fire-proof, has 
 five tiers of boxes, and will seat two thousand two hun- 
 dred people. It has a grand double-branched horse- 
 shoe staircase which is well worth the seeing. By the 
 way, the drop-curtain at Heuck's Opera House in Cin- 
 cinnati gives a fine representation of the grand stair- 
 case. The most notable thing about the Opera House, 
 however, is the grand salon which affords a magnifi- 
 cent promenade, as in Paris at the Grand Opera House, 
 half the audience go out between the acts to this grand 
 salon, which is splendidly adorned with sculpture and 
 mirrors from the floor to the top of the ceiling, which 
 is very high, and is magnificently frescoed by Baudry, 
 and is certainly the finest play-house in the world. 
 The audience are recalled to their seats from the grand 
 salon for the rising of the curtain, by electric bells. 
 The opera given on that occasion was " L'Africaine," 
 
GRAND OPERA HOUSE. 215 
 
 and it was truly a grand performance, and the scenery 
 and appointments were, of course, of the most gor- 
 geous character. The government subsidizes the 
 Opera by giving the director, who pays no rent, a 
 gratuity of $160,000 a year. To give you some tan- 
 gible idea of this mammoth Opera house, I will here 
 give you a few startling statistics. The stage alone 
 occupies nearly two and a half acres ; just think of its 
 immensity. There are three hundred and thirty-four 
 dressing rooms, the staircases number six thousand one 
 hundred and nineteen steps, there are nine thousand 
 two hundred and nine gas burners, and one thousand 
 six hundred and sixdoors. The water pipes are four 
 and a half miles in length, and there are only one hun- 
 dred and fifty miles of cords and ropes for man- 
 aging the scenery of this gigantic place of amusement, 
 and the expenses of the Opera are of course enormous. 
 The gas bill alone costs $50,000 a year, merely the 
 sweeping out costs $8,000, and the authors' fees and 
 the droit des pauvres, or right of the poor of Paris 
 to a certain per cent of the receipts amount to $100,- 
 000, so that these four items absorb completely the sub- 
 sidy of $160,000. In 1883 (the year that I was at 
 the Grand Opera), the singers cost $17,000 per month, 
 and the corps de ballet and choruses $12,000. The 
 receipts average $80,000 a month and expenses $76, 
 000. The Parisians, however, are so much dissatisfied 
 with the way in which the Grand Opera is managed, 
 that they talk of taking the Opera House away, and 
 building a less pretentious one. 
 
216 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 The exterior of the building is enriched with busts, 
 statues, and groups, all of exquisite execution, and the 
 Opera House is one of the most magnificent buildings, 
 probably, which can be found on the globe. We re- 
 luctantly (ceZa vasay,s dire) bade adieu to Paris the 
 next morning, July 31st, and took the morning express 
 train for Geneva via the Paris, Lvons and Mediterra- 
 nean Railroad and the first place which we reach worthy 
 of note, is the most interesting place on the route from 
 Paris to Geneva (a distance of about 413 miles and 
 about twelve hours' travel by express), Fontainebleau, 
 a handsome town of 10,000 inhabitants, and about forty 
 miles from Paris, which is noted for its palace, which 
 in point of magnificence stands unrivaled, and the 
 picturesque forest on which it borders, both of which 
 figure prominently in the history of the Kings of 
 France. 
 
 The forest is the most noted in France, being 
 sixty-three miles in circumference, and contains 
 42,000 acres, or more than sixty square miles in 
 area. The place derives its name from a fountain of 
 fine water, which the huntsmen who resorted to the 
 neighboring forest found so refreshing, that they called 
 \t Fontaine Belle Eau^ov the " fountain of beautiful 
 water," whence, in the course of time, it became cor- 
 rupted into the present form of Fontainebleau. A 
 royal residence seems to have existed here from the 
 time of King Robert the Devout, in the eleventh cen- 
 tury, and Philip the Fair (during whose cruel reign, 
 as mentioned above, the Knights Templars were 
 
FONTAINEBLEAU. 217 
 
 overthrown and for the most part put to death, and the 
 few survivors expelled from France), was born and 
 died at Fontainebleau, and his tomb maybe seen at 
 this day in the small church of the adjoining hamlet of 
 Avon. 
 
 The present chateau was commenced by Francis 
 I., and was the favorite residence of that mon- 
 arch and his immediate successors. Henry IV. added 
 largely to it. Louis XIV. used to make an annual 
 visit to Fontainebleau with all his court, and the royal 
 retinue, consisting of three hundred ladies and gentle- 
 men with their valets and ladies' maids, were all lodged 
 here. 
 
 This palace has been the theater of some most 
 notable events. Here it was, in 1812, that Pope Pius 
 VII. was lodged for eighteen months, while the un- 
 willing visitor of Bonaparte ; here it was that Napoleon 
 signed his abdication in 1814, and the small table on 
 which he affixed his signature to that important docu- 
 ment may yet be seen in the palace ; here it was on the 
 20th of April, he bade adieu to his beloved Guard, upon 
 setting out for Elba, this mournful event taking place 
 in the Court of Adieux, and so called from that cir- 
 cumstance, Napoleon standing near the famous horse- 
 shoe staircase built by Louis XIII. , and here it was, 
 exactly eleven months later, on the 20th of March, 
 1815, that he reviewed his soldiers on his return to 
 France, preparatory to the last sad act of the drama, 
 which was destined, though he knew it not (and 
 would have scornfully flouted at the prediction had 
 
218 A KNiaHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 anyone dared to make it to him), to be enacted on the 
 fatal field of Waterloo. The palace was neglected by 
 Napoleon, and for some time under the Restoration, 
 but it was afterwards repaired and beautified by 
 by Louis Philippe ; he spent vast sums upon it, and 
 restored it to something like its ancient splendor. 
 
 The palace has five principal courts called, respect- 
 ively, the Court of Adieux, the Court of the Fountain, 
 the Oval Court, the Court of Officers, and the Court 
 of Princes. The Court of Adieux is of magnificent 
 size, being five hundred and one feet long, and three 
 hundred and seventy feet wide. The Court of the 
 Fountain has buildings on three sides, and a piece of 
 water on the fourth, and the Oval Court occupies the 
 site of the original castle, of which only one turret 
 remains. In the chapel at Foutainebleau, the marriage 
 of Louis XV. was celebrated, and here Napoleon II. 
 (the King of Rome), the son of Napoleon and Maria 
 Louisa of Austria, was baptised. The most famous 
 room of the palace however is the gallery of Henry II. , 
 which is one hundred feet long and twenty-three feet 
 wide, and is one of the most beautiful works of the 
 Renaissance. 
 
 In the palace, in 1685, Louis XIV. signed the 
 famous revocation of the " Edict of Nantes," 
 one of the most notable events of this reign, which 
 caused consternation throughout the Protestants 
 of France, which had only been surpassed by St. 
 Bartholomew ; and more than a century earlier here 
 died in 1765, the father of three Kings of France, 
 
VALLEY OF THE EHONE. 219 
 
 one the unfortunate Louis XYI., Louis XYIIL, 
 and Charles X., although the Dauphin, their father, 
 the only son of Louis XV., did not himself live 
 to ascend the tbrone. Here Charles IV. King of 
 Spain, when dethroned by Bonaparte and succeeded 
 by Joseph, the eldest brother of Napoleon, was a 
 prisoner for twenty-four days, in 1808, and here it 
 was that the famous Divorce between the Emperor and 
 Josephine was pronounced. 
 
 The grounds and gardens resemble very much 
 Hampton Court, near London, which I visited upon 
 my return to that city, and which will be spoken 
 of when London is reached on our return from 
 the Continent. The pond facing the Court of the 
 Fountahi, which is a fine piece of water of trian- 
 gular shape about one thousand feet long on two 
 of its sides, and seven hundred feet on the other, is 
 filled with enormous carp which live to a great age, 
 and some of these are said to be two hundred years 
 old. In the forest, there is much to be seen of inter- 
 est ; and it is said that from a high point called the 
 " Fort of the Emperor," you can see forty miles in 
 every direction, and by the aid of a good telescope 
 the Pantheon of Paris is said to be distinctly visible. 
 
 Now we pass on over the dull and uninteresting plains 
 of France, and as we near the city of Geneva, we travel 
 between the Jura Mountains, where we get some fore- 
 taste of Alpine scenery, through picturesque gorges, 
 probably seventy-five miles before we reach the city, 
 and near Culoz, almost forty miles from our journey's 
 
220 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 end, we first strike the valley of the Rhone which 
 flows directly through the Luke of Geneva, or " Lacus 
 Leraannus," as Csasar frequently culls it in his Com- 
 mentaries, which I hud pored over many a weary week 
 when a restless school boy, and when I used often to 
 wonder whether I should ever live to see those won- 
 drous lands he speaks of, and here I find myself after 
 all in the very Geneva of my school-boy studies, and 
 of which Csesar himself says, extremum oppidum Al- 
 lohrogum proximumque Helvetiorum finibus est Geneva . 
 Before the Roman conquest, it was a considerable 
 frontier town of the AUobroges, and Caesar having 
 taken possession of the place, built on the left bank 
 of the Rhone a wall fortified by several towers, to 
 oppose the passage of the Helvetii. I awoke early 
 the next morning;, and from my window at the Hotel 
 de la Paix, which is situated directly on the quay of 
 the beautiful lake and at which I luckily had a front 
 room directly overlooking the lake and Savoy, and the 
 Jura Mountains in the distance, I could see faintly in 
 the distance, fifty-three miles away, the snowy outline 
 of the peak of the famous Mont Blanc, and almost at 
 my feet, was moored a small fleet of lake steamers, two 
 of which bore the historic names of Tell and Winkel- 
 ried respectively, and which set me at once to thinking 
 of the noble part which each had played, in helping to 
 free his native land from the relentless grip of the 
 tyrant. I thought of Winkelried's martyrdom at 
 the battle of Sempach, A. D. 1314, when he rushed 
 upon the serried lances of the Austrian phalanx, 
 
L.4KE or GENEVA. 221 
 
 theretofore totally impervious to the Swiss, until he 
 had received so many of their lances in his body as to 
 break their serried column, and as the poet so beauti- 
 fully expresses it : — 
 
 " * Make way for liberty,' he cried, 
 Made way for liberty, and died." 
 
 But his fellow Swiss, by his devoted act of self- 
 sacrifice, were enabled to win a most glorious victory. 
 I hastened down from my room, and in the fresh early 
 morning, I took a stroll along the banks of the beau- 
 tiful lake whose waters are as blue as the sky above, 
 and which for blueness of tint is only equaled by the 
 Mediterranean, it is said ; on the opposite side, gazing 
 on the shores of Savoy, and at a bend in the lake, 
 perhaps a half a mile from the hotel, obtained a glori- 
 ous view of this beautiful sheet of water, which is, 
 perhaps, one of the most striking pieces of scenery in 
 the world, and the water of which is so clear that you 
 can see for some distance into its pellucid depths. 
 The view was obscured somewhat by a slight mist, but 
 the beauty of the spectacle I shall never forget while 
 life itself lasts. At this point, a long pier is built out 
 into the lake for some distance, with a light-house at 
 the end, and from the end of the pier I obtained a fine 
 view of the city itself, and while I was sitting there 
 gazing over the beautiful blue expanse of water, sev- 
 eral steamers passed me filled with happy excursion- 
 ists and tourists, anxious to see the beauties of this 
 famous lake which has furnished themes for many a 
 
222 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 poet, and the beauties of whose scenery have been 
 delineated by the brush of many an artist. Byron 
 says of it : — 
 
 " Lake Leman woos me with its crystal face, 
 
 The mirror, where the stars and mountains view 
 
 The stillness of their aspect, in each trace 
 Its clear depths yields of their far height, and true ; 
 
 There is too much of man here to look through, 
 With a fit mind, the might which I behold." 
 
 And he has addressed matchless invocations to its 
 beautiful shores, which are the chief charm of this 
 famous Swiss lake. 
 
 Geneva is celebrated as the first stronghold of Pro- 
 testantism throughout all Europe, and here John 
 Calvin sojourned for twenty-eight years, and died 
 here in 1564, after having had enjoyed the satis- 
 faction of elevating Geneva to the highest degree 
 of theological renown. Here it was that Kousseau 
 "first drew the breath which made him wretched," 
 and we were afterwards shown the house where he 
 was born. There is an island at the lower end of the 
 lake where the Rhone emerges as blue as indigo, which 
 is called Rousseau's Island, and here is a statue of the 
 great philosopher, the work of the celebrated French 
 sculptor, Pradier, erected in 1837 ; and this is a great 
 resort of the people of Geneva, and especially of 
 tourists (who in the summer season, crowd Geneva to 
 overflowing), as they can obtain a fine view of the lake 
 from Rousseau's Isle, although a better one can be 
 obtained from the public gardens, which are on the 
 
JOHN Calvin's house. 223 
 
 opposite side at the lower end of the lake. The Rhone 
 separates the city into two divisions, which are con- 
 nected by bridges. 
 
 Among the sights of Geneva may be mentioned 
 the sumptuous statue of the Duke of Brunswick, 
 who left his fortune of about $5,000,000 to the 
 city, and which stands in the Place des Alpes, 
 and directly fronting the lake. Two colossal lions 
 stand in front of the structure, and the top is sur- 
 mounted by a statue of the Duke on horseback. It is 
 in the form of a pyramid in three stones, composed of 
 white and colored marble, and cost a large amount of 
 money, but soon after leaving Geneva I saw a dispatch 
 from there to the London Times^ which stated that the 
 foundations of the jnonument were crumbling away, 
 and that it probably would have to be taken down and 
 rebuilt. No. 11 Ruedes Ohanoines, west of the cathe- 
 dral, is Calvin's house where he lived from 1543, until 
 his death in 1564. But the place of his interment is 
 unknown, as he forbade the erection of any monu- 
 ment whatever to his memory. 
 
 Rousseau was born in the same vicinity in 1712, 
 in Grande Rue No. 40. A curious sight to be 
 witnessed in Geneva is several boats, anchored 
 in the river Rhone, and filled with women busily 
 engaged in washing clothes, and I thought at the 
 time that if any water in the world could conduce 
 to cleanliness, it would certainly be the heavenly blue 
 water of the Rhone.^ Geneva has been noted as 
 the center of those revolutionary ideas which, since 
 
224 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 the sixteenth century, have shaken Europe to its 
 foundations, Calvin having been the great advocate of 
 religious reform, while Rousseau was of social reform. 
 Here it was by Calvin's order, that Servetus was 
 burned to death simply because 7ie difered from Cal- 
 vin's views of theology^ and here it was that some of 
 Eousseau's writings were burned by the hangman as be- 
 ing "scandalous, bold, impious, and tending to destroy 
 the Christian religion, and all governments." 
 
 Geneva has been the residence at one time or another, 
 of some of the most gifted intellects which Europe has 
 produced, and has had much to do with shaping the 
 intellectual and social progress of Europe, as well 
 as of the rest of the world. 
 
 The new theater is a very ^ne building in the 
 Renaissance style, and there is also a jBne museum 
 called the Rath Museum, named after a General 
 formerly in the Russian service, who was a native of 
 Geneva. In the Hotel de Yille, or city hall, may be 
 seen a number of coats of mail which were taken from 
 the bodies of the dead Savoyards, who attempted to 
 capture the city on the night of December 11, 1602, 
 but who were repulsed with great slaughter, and one 
 of the sights of the city is a fountain commemorating 
 the event. 
 
 Geneva is noted for its watch factories, and for 
 the handsome jewelry which is manufactured there, 
 and the displays in the store windows vie with Paris 
 in magnificence. Among the eight bridges which 
 cross the Rhone, connecting the two parts of the 
 
THE PUBLIC LIBRARY. 225 
 
 city, is a very old wooden bridge which is adorned 
 . with a series of very curious pictures, called the 
 " Dance of death," and also other pictures represent- 
 ing notable events in the history of Geneva and of 
 Switzerland. They are arranged at intervals of twelve 
 or fifteen feet, and you look up directly over your 
 head at them as you pass through the bridge. The 
 old wall of the city, near the opera house, is very high, 
 and bears the date, 1719, although in most places the 
 walls have been thrown down or are made use of as 
 boulevards. One of the streets of Geneva is called 
 Bonnivard, from the name of the celebrated " prisoner 
 of Chillon," " whose steps appealed from tyranny to 
 God," and as we were on our way up the lake the next 
 day, we met a steamer of the same name coming down. 
 The public library of Geneva was founded by 
 Bonnivard in 1551, and now contains more than 
 75,000 volumes, and at least 500 manuscripts, and a 
 collection of portraits of the great reformers and 
 Protestant chiefs of all countries — from Wyckliffe 
 and Jean Huss, to the latest eminent man of the re- 
 public. By the way, it is related of Eousseau, that in 
 his early days he was an apprentice to an engraver, 
 and on one occasion had been rambling outside of the 
 gates of the city, until too late in the evening to be 
 admitted within the walls. He was afraid to face his 
 tyrannical master on the morrow, so he ran away, and 
 entered upon that career which was destined to shake 
 the established forms of society to their very founda- 
 tions. 
 
 J5 
 
226 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 I visited the watch factory of Patek, Philippe 
 & Co., one of the most prominent watch-making firms 
 of Geneva, and was shown through the various rooms 
 of the factory, and witnessed the process of making 
 watches in all its ramifications. I was told that they 
 manufactured about 6,000 watches a year, and that 
 the city of Geneva annually made 100,000 of them. 
 That is the place to buy the finest music-boxes in the 
 world, and at the hotel where our party stopped, we 
 dined accompanied by the tones of a magnificent 
 orchestrion, which stood near the entrance of the din- 
 ing-room. The banks of the lake are lined with beau- 
 tiful villas and residences, many of thehi owned by 
 rich persons from the various capitals of Europe, who 
 only come to Switzerland to spend the summer. 
 
 One of the most elegant and expensive of them be- 
 longs to one of the famous Rothschilds, aaid is not far 
 from Geneva, on the right bank of the lake, and pre- 
 sents a fine view from the deck of a steamer, as we 
 saw it the next day while going up on the Winkelreid. 
 A favorite place of resort in Geneva on a warm sum- 
 mer afternoon, is the English Garden at the foot of the 
 lake, and from which you obtain a fine view of the lake, 
 and the city as well. Necker, the great financial minister 
 of Louis XVI. , and his daughter, afterwards the famous 
 Madame de Stael (and with Whose mother, Susanne 
 Curchod, Gibbon, the great historian of the " Decline 
 and Fall of the Roman Empire," was once in love, and to 
 whom he actually made a proposal of marriage, though 
 their engagement was distasteful to Gibbon's father, 
 
CATHEDRAL OF ST. PIERRE 227 
 
 as we learn from the " Memoirs of Madame de Stael " ), 
 were born in Geneva, and Gibbon remained true to 
 his first love, and never married. The Academical 
 museum at Geneva is well worth a visit, as there are 
 a great many interesting specimens to be seen there ; 
 one, especially, which is an elephant that was once the 
 property of the city of Geneva, but the parsimonious 
 authorities came to the conclusion that, " they had an 
 elephant on their hands " which they could not afford 
 to keep, so they had him killed with a cannon shot, 
 stuffed him, and then had him placed in the Academ- 
 ical museum. The story also says that they sold his 
 meat to the various restaurants of the city, in order to 
 defray the cost of his keeping, as far as possible. 
 
 Perhaps the most interesting thing to be seen in the 
 city of Geneva is the cathedral of St. Pierre, which is 
 situated in the highest part of the town, which is the 
 mother-church of the Calvanistic-Protestant doctrine, 
 and was the scene of Calvin's oft-repeated and violent 
 invectives against the corruptions of the Roman church. 
 The present edifice is constructed on the site of an an- 
 cient temple of Apollo, dates back to the twelfth cen- 
 tury, and is built in the Gothic style with three large 
 towers, one, one hundred and thirty feet high, with 
 the exception of the portico which, singularly enough, 
 is of Grecian architecture, and supported by five Cor- 
 inthian columns. 
 
 The interior is very plain, and free from the 
 adornments generally so profuse in the churches 
 of the Middle Ages. In the ancient chapel of the 
 
228 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Virgin Mary is the tomb of the Duke of Rohan, a cele- 
 brated Protestant chief of the era of Louis XITI., 
 and his armor is to be seen on top of his tomb. He 
 fell at the siege of Rhinefeld in Germany, in 16B8, 
 and is buried by the side of the Duchess, his wife. His 
 tomb hasalengthy Latin inscription commemorating his 
 achievements, and his many virtues. At the bottom 
 of the choir are some stained glass windows of the 
 fifteenth century representing Mary Magdalen and five 
 of the Apostles. The large roses, as well as the lower 
 compartments of the north and south windows, were 
 placed in the church in 1835, on the occasion of the 
 Jubilee in honor of the Reformation. 
 
 Here also is to be seen a chair which was the prop- 
 erty of John Calvin, in which I seated myself for a 
 moment, and, afterwards, in Edinboro, I also had 
 the pleasure of sitting in a chair which was the prop- 
 erty of John Knox, in his own house, while I copied 
 several sentences from his History of the Reforma- 
 tion. These two great men, after Martin Luther, and 
 the learned Erasmus, of Rotterdam, have had more 
 to do with the destinies of mankind through their 
 gigantic efforts in the Reformation (John Knox in 
 Scotland, and John Calvin in Geneva), than any other 
 two men who ever lived. They were contemporaries, 
 were thoroughly in sympathy with one another in their 
 gigantic mission (as they regarded it), and Knox vis- 
 ited Calvin on one occasion at Geneva. Calvin, how- 
 ever, was so dogmatic that he became known as the 
 "Pope of Protestantism" in Geneva, but under his 
 
SUMPTUARY LAWS. 229 
 
 noted administration Geneva became a refuge for per- 
 secuted Protestants from every country. Protestant- 
 ism has not only rendered the State flourishing and 
 independent in the midst of great rival powers, but 
 has produced the happiest effects on the morality of 
 its inhabitants. 
 
 Calvin was extremely austere and rigid, and a 
 few of his regulations may be given to show the 
 temper of the man. Among them, was one which 
 prohibited more than five dishes for a dinner for ten 
 persons. Plush breeches were forbidden to be worn ; 
 violation of the Sabbath was punished by a pub- 
 lic admonition from the pulpit, and adultery with 
 death, while the gamester was exposed in the pillory, 
 with a pack of cards around his neck. By the way, 
 Calvin did not confine his attention to *' plush 
 breeches," but he also had more to do with the present 
 mode of women's dress than the rising generation, 
 perhaps, have any idea of, and fewer still would sus- 
 pect that Calvin was, among his other accomplishments, 
 a " man-milliner( ?) " 
 
 Prior to the Reformation, dresses were fastened 
 at the back, and one of the grandest results of 
 that memorable insurrection against ignorance and 
 superstition was the emancipation of women from 
 "dresses hooked up behind." It was Luther who 
 took the bold ground that woman, so long as she had 
 to have some one to assist her to fasten her dress, was 
 not a free person, and that, in order to develop her 
 noblest qualities, she must be permitted to " fasten 
 
230 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 her dress in front," and thus dispense with assistance 
 when putting on her clothes. Calvin differed from 
 Luther in this matter, and maintained that " dresses 
 fastened in front " were not authorized hy Scripture, 
 and therefore wrong. Melancthon tried to steer a 
 middle course, and, naturally, gained nothing by it. 
 Luther upbraided him for his want of courage, while 
 Calvin charged him with heresy. The final result of 
 the very hot discussion of the matter between the great 
 leaders of the Reformation, was that each one clung to 
 his original position, and that, with the exception of 
 the immediate followers of Calvin, the women of the 
 Reformed Faith accepted the doctrine of Luther, and 
 began to wear " dresses fastening in front.'''' 
 
 The old Blue Laws of Connecticut were doubtless 
 modeled from Calvin's code, and in this day of liberal 
 ideas such things no doubt produce a smile of wonder, 
 if not of incredulity. We quote here an eccentric 
 verse of doggerel, of the time, in regard to Calvin's 
 hide-bound, and extremely narrow-minded asceti- 
 cism : — 
 
 "The old Blue Laws of all the best, 
 Old Calvin made in solemn jest, 
 For fun he never could tolerate, 
 Unless established by the State, 
 
 A Puritan, 
 
 A funny man, 
 John Calvin was a Puritan." 
 
 The Dukes of Savoy controlled Geneva before the 
 days of the Reformation, but they were finally ex- 
 
SCENES ON THE LAKE. 231 
 
 pelled by a determined effort, and from these conten- 
 tions between the Dukes of Savoy and the Protestants 
 of Geneva, arose the term of " Huguenots," as the 
 French Protestants were afterwards called. The 
 German name for Confederates (that is to say those 
 who were banded together to resist the Dulles of 
 Savoy), was Eidgenossen^ pronounced by the French 
 ^^ Hegnenos,^^ whence came the term by corruption, 
 " Huguenots," which afterwards extended to France. 
 The attempts made by the Duke of Savoy to recover 
 possession of Geneva proved abortive. Geneva was 
 justly looked upon as the bulwark of Protestanism, 
 and many Protestant princes contributed considerable 
 money to aid in strengthening the fortifications of the 
 city. 
 
 Lake Geneva is in shape a perfect crescent, with 
 its horns turned towards the south, and is the 
 largest, being fifty-five miles long, as well as the most 
 beautiful of all the lakes of Switzerland. It has one 
 strange phenomenon connected with its waters, for 
 which no plausible scientific explanation has yet been 
 given. In different parts of the lake, but more fre- 
 quently near Geneva, the water suddenly rises at times 
 from two to five feet. This continues for perhaps 
 twenty-five minutes and then the water resumes its 
 original level. These sudden rises are called seiches^ 
 and the only explanation that is offered of this strange 
 occurrence is that of the unequal pressure of the 
 atmosphere at different times. About a mile and a 
 half below the city of Geneva, theArve, heading from 
 
232 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Mont Blanc with its muddy current, unites with the 
 Ehone with its "heavenly blue," but they do not 
 become blended into one another for some distance, 
 but finally the Rhone loses its identity in the muddy 
 Arve, and both are lost subsequently in the waters of 
 the ocean. 
 
 We came up the valley of the Rhone for some con- 
 siderable distance before reaching Geneva, and the water 
 had nothing of the clearness and beauty which the Rhone 
 has, while rushing past Rousseau's Isle at Geneva. The 
 next morning, which was the first day of August, and on 
 Thursday, we went aboard the steamer "Winkelried," 
 and prepared ourselves for a sail upon that beautiful 
 lake as far as Ouchy, where most of our party landed, 
 in order to proceed from there to Lausanne, about two 
 miles distant, where they took the train for Berne, at 
 which city the party were to stay that night ; but as I 
 was extremely desirous to proceed further on up the 
 lake in order to see the famous " Castle of Chillon," I 
 did not get off there but proceeded in company with 
 one of our party, Sir Dresser, and will speak more at 
 length of the castle and its famous prisoner Bonnivard, 
 a little further on. 
 
 Dumas has compared the lake of Geneva to the bay 
 of Naples, and he says that " Geneva sleeps like an 
 Eastern queen above the banks of the lake, her head 
 reposing on the base of Mont Saleve, her feet kissed 
 by each advancing wave." 
 
 Fourteen steamers plow the waters of this beautiful 
 lake, the " Winkelried " being one of the largest, and 
 
LAKE STEAMERS 233 
 
 they are hardly enough to meet the demands of tour- 
 ists, for the immense summer travel through Switzer- 
 land is estimated at 60,000 tourists annually, and most 
 of them usually go either up or down lake Geneva. 
 
 While looking over the register at the Hotel de la 
 Paix, I saw the name of the Hon. John W. Book- 
 waiter, of Springfield, Ohio, the Democratic nominee 
 for Governor of Ohio, who was defeated by Charles 
 Foster, four years ago, and who went through Geneva 
 on his tour around the world ; and I also noticed two 
 names which are famous in the history of Europe, 
 Talleyrand, a relative no doubt of the famous minister 
 of Napoleon, and Prince Napoleon and suite, he being 
 the legitimate and direct heir to the throne of France, 
 since the recent death of the Count de Chambord. I also 
 saw registered the name of Canon Farrar, of West- 
 minster Abbey, which will give you some idea of the 
 class of tourists who visit Switzerland. The transpor- 
 tation of freight upon the lake does not amount to 
 much, the largest sailing vessels being of 180 tons 
 burden, and with their large and graceful lateen 
 sails at a distance on the water, they present very 
 much the graceful appearance of the extended wings 
 of some large bird. I am told that these picturesque 
 sails are seen no where except on this lake, and in the 
 Mediterranean Sea. 
 
 Soon after leaving Geneva the steamer passes 
 the small town of Pregny, which is noted as hav- 
 ing been the residence of the Empress Josephine 
 after her divorce, and from which is to be had the 
 
234 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 best view of Mt. Blanc to be obtained near Ge- 
 neva. And on the top of that hill, rises the princely 
 mansion of Baron Adolphe de Rothschild. The 
 steamer touches first on this side of the lake and then 
 on that, and thus you get a fine view of both sides 
 of the lake which gradually widens until between 
 Mordes and Evian it is at its widest, which is about 
 eight miles. Not far from Pregny, and at a little 
 distance from the lake, is the town of Ferney, or, as 
 it is usually called, Ferney- Voltaire., in honor of Vol- 
 taire, which when he arrived there in 1759, had only a 
 few huts, but his energy, coupled with his renown, 
 made the town so flourishing that, in 1778, when he 
 left for Paris, there to die, the town of Ferney con- 
 tained more than 1,200 persons. He built a chateau 
 here which is still standing. The house is completely 
 shut out from view either of the lake, or the Alps, 
 but the D-arden commands a fine view of both, and the 
 arbor may yet be seen in which he wrote his tragedy 
 of Irene. The theater has been demolished and the 
 chapel which bore the famous inscription Deo erexit 
 Voltaire has been changed into a farm house. Byron 
 says of him and Gibbon : — 
 
 Lausanne and Ferney, you have been the abodes 
 Of names, which unto you bequeathed a name ; 
 
 Mortals who fought and found, by dangerous roads, 
 A path to perpetuity of fame." 
 
 The next place of any note is Coppet, the chateau of 
 which formerly belonged to Necker, who retired here 
 
PERSONS AND PLACES. 235 
 
 in 1790, and died here in 1804, and his daughter, the 
 famous Madame de Stael resided here for some time. 
 The first place of any size is Nyon, which, like many of 
 the Swiss towns, nestles at the very edge of the water, 
 and is protected by a breakwater only three or four 
 feet high, which I thought in the case of a storm, or 
 of one of those sudden rises peculiar to this lake, and 
 spoken of above, would be very little protection, 
 indeed, from an overflow. A great many persons are 
 at the landings to witness the arrival of the steamers, 
 many of them Swiss peasants in their picturesque cos- 
 tumes, and the sight is quite a pleasant, as well as a 
 novel one. Here is a fine old castle situated on a 
 commanding eminence with walls ten feet thick, and 
 five towers which date back to the twelfth century, 
 and now belongs to the town of Nj^on. While going 
 up the lake, we met the steamer Bonnivard coming 
 down, which only enhanced our eagerness to see the 
 famous castle. 
 
 After leaving Ouchy (to which, of course,, we 
 had afterwards to return from Chillon in order to 
 go on to Berne), we landed at Vevey which owes 
 much of its reputation to the writings of Eous- 
 seau. The Church of St. Martin, which is not far 
 from the town, on a high eminence, and which dates 
 back to 1498, is noted as containing the graves of 
 Ludlow and Broughton, two of the Regicides who 
 voted for the death of King Charles I. , and the latter 
 of whom read the death sentence to that unfortunate 
 Monarch. The inscription on his monument (in Latin ) 
 
236 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 says, "He was thought worthy to announce the sen- 
 tence of the King of Kings, and for which he was ex- 
 pelled from his native land." 
 
 At the restoration of Charles II., that monarch, 
 desiring to punish his father's murderers, made a 
 demand for the extradition of the refugees, but the 
 Swiss government, perhaps, as a Eepublic, deeming 
 the deed of these fugitives a patriotic one, refused to 
 comply with his demand, and they died there. Lud- 
 low's house stood in the east end of the town, but it is 
 no longer in existence. On the house was once an 
 inscription chosen by himself, omne solum forti patria , 
 which was purchased and removed by one of his de- 
 scendants. Not far from here, we reach Clarens, im- 
 mortalized by Rousseau, and to which Byron has 
 addressed some passionate verses : — 
 
 " Clarens, sweet Clarens; birth-place of deep love, 
 Thine air is the young breath of passionate thought; 
 
 Thy trees take root in love ; the snows above, 
 The very glaciers have his colors caught. 
 And sunset into rose hues sees them wrought 
 
 By rays, which sleep there lovingly." 
 
 From here we begin to catch a glimpse of Chillon's 
 
 massive walls and towers, and at Montreux, which is 
 
 the nearest steamboat landing, we disembarked, and 
 
 from there to the castle we take a small boat, which in 
 
 a few moments brings us under Chillon's walls, where 
 
 is said to be the deepest part of the lake. 
 
 " Lake Leman lies by Chillon's walls; 
 A thousand feet in depth below 
 Its mossy waters meet and flow; 
 Thus much the fathom-line was sent 
 From Chillon's suow-wiiite battlement." 
 
CASTLE OF CHILLON. 237 
 
 This Castle, however, owes its fame much more to 
 Lord Byron than to its noted occupant Bonnivard, 
 whose history was entirely known to Byron, as he says 
 himself, when he wrote the poem, which is certainly 
 one of the finest, as well as one of the purest and 
 cleanest poems that he ever wrote. It is said that he 
 came to write it as much by accident, as anything else. 
 While passing around Lake Geneva in 1816, he was 
 caught in a storm and stopped two days at a common 
 little inn in Ouchy, and he employed his time while 
 there in writing his exquisite poem, the " Prisoner of 
 Chillon." Afterwards, he became acquainted with 
 the history of Bonnivard, and prefixed to the original 
 poem, a sonnet specially alluding to the noble Prior of 
 Victor, who passed six long weary years in the lone- 
 some vault of Chillon, chained to a stone pillar, and 
 in solitary confinement. The ring is still to be seen 
 there, and it has worn a hole in the pillar deep enough 
 to lay your finger in it, and at the foot of the pillar 
 are impressions of depth enough, and about the pro- 
 per shape, to have been actually worn into the stone 
 by human feet. Byron's name is carved on the fourth 
 column from the entrance of the dungeon, and the 
 second column beyond this one, is the one to which 
 Bonnivard was chained; and of which Byron says, as 
 he only can: — 
 
 " Chillon; thy prison is a holy place 
 
 And thy sad floor an altar — for t'was trod 
 
 Until his very steps have left a trace 
 Worn, as if the cold pavement were a sod, 
 
 By Bonnivard — may none those marks efface ^=. 
 For they appeal from tyranny to God.'^ 
 
238 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Bonnivard was here imprisoned by the Duke of Savoy, 
 from 1530 to 1536. While yet young, he incurred the 
 enmity of the Duke of Savoy, and the Bishop, and, 
 when in 1519, the Duke entered Geneva with 500 men, 
 Bonnivard fled from the city, but was betrayed and 
 imprisoned for two years. Meanwhile his zeal for 
 Geneva was none the less abated, and he was met in 
 the Jura Mountains by robbers in 1530, who to curry 
 favor with the Duke of Savoy, then in full possession 
 and control of Geneva, gave him up to that despot, 
 who forthwith incarcerated him in the gloomy and 
 cheerless dungeon of Chillon. When restored to his 
 liberty by an attack of 7,000 Swiss by land on the 
 castle, and the Genevese galleys by sea, he found to 
 his immense surprise and joy that Geneva was free, 
 and enjoying the full glory of the Keformation, 
 instead of being, as when he was imprisoned, a Cath- 
 olic state subject to the tyranny of the Duke of Savoy. 
 The castle stands on a rock, which was formerly en- 
 tirely surrounded by water, some twenty or thirty yards 
 from the land, but the strait is now dry, and the castle 
 is connected with the main land by a bridge. Upon 
 approaching the castle you find that it is much larger 
 than it seems to be from the lake, although, in fact, I 
 had expected to see a much larger and more imposing 
 structure than I actually found it to be, upon entering 
 and examining it. Above the entrance are the arms 
 of the Canton of Vaud, in which the castle is situated. 
 The rooms of the castle are quite interesting, from 
 their associations, and from the embrasures on the 
 
THE FAMOUS PRISONER. 239 
 
 side next to the lake, you obtain a view of the beauti- 
 ful expanse of blue waters for many miles. The pil- 
 lars of the dungeon where Bonnivard was confined 
 have many names inscribed upon them, among them 
 the names of Eugene Sue, Georges Sand, and Victor 
 Hugo, but truth compels me to say that the dungeon 
 is not much, if at all below the level of the lake now, 
 whatever it may have been in the time of Bonnivard. 
 Poets must be allowed some license, however, and 
 Byron locates it below the level of the lake consider- 
 ably — 
 
 "Below the surface of the lake 
 The dark vault lies wherein we lay; 
 We heard it ripple night and day ; 
 Sounding o'er our heads it knocked, 
 And I have felt its winter spray 
 Work through the bar, when winds were high 
 And wanton in the happy sky." 
 
 The name "Chillon" is to be seen in' large letters 
 on the slate roof of the castle turret, on the side next 
 to the lake. At the upper end of the lake we saw the 
 first snow on the mountain tops except, of course, the 
 distant view of the top of Mont Blanc which we got 
 a glimpse of at Geneva, as indicated above, and one 
 peak called the Dent du Midi, was much higher 
 than the rest, and had seven or eight ragged indenta- 
 tions on its surface, and was almost entirely covered 
 with snow. At Vevey, we saw several American flags 
 on small boats in the harbor, and on the hotel Monnet 
 was displayed a large English flag, and a half dozen 
 
240 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 large French flags. The French use the tri-color, the 
 same as we do, but they have no stars, and their colors 
 consist of the colors blue, white, and red, which run 
 perpendicularly, instead of horizontally, as our flag 
 does and called the tri-color. A great many of the 
 boat's passengers were either English or Americans, 
 and I noticed one young lady who was so deeply ab- 
 sorbed in William Black's last novel, "Yolande," 
 that she seemed entirely oblivious of the beauties of 
 the surrounding scenery and although, of course, I 
 readily concede that Mr. Black is a most charming 
 writer, yet I thought that was hardly the place for a 
 tourist to read, while surrounded by so many new and 
 attractive sights, and I wondered what she came abroad 
 .for. The banks of the lake are covered with vines 
 down to the very edge of the water, and very often 
 breakwaters are built to protect the grapes* from the 
 encroachments of the waves. 
 
 Near the steamboat landing, we noticed a very steep 
 inclined plane leading to the mountain top, which was, 
 I suppose, something like 1,000 feet high, but the 
 tramway was not then in operation, as they had not 
 gotten the machinery in position necessary to run it. 
 There are a number of fine hotel buildings on the side 
 of the mountain near Chillon, and I was told that they 
 only charged about nine francs a day, or $1.75, for 
 what were very good accommodations. One thousand 
 years ago a single massive tower stood upon the rock 
 in the water where the Castle of Chillon now stands, 
 and this old tower was used as a light-house and prison. 
 
" ILE DE PAIX." 241 
 
 In 1238, Peter, Duke of Savoy, built the present 
 castle on the ruins of the former tower. The lake has 
 but one island in its whole extent, unlike Loch Lomond 
 in Scotland, which is literally studded with them, and 
 this is at the upper end of the lake, near Villeneuve, 
 and is the one alluded to in the " Prisoner of Chillon." 
 
 " And then there was a little isle 
 WMch, in my very face, did smile, 
 The only one in view." 
 
 This little island is called the " lie de Paix,^^ and 
 was planted with three elms by a lady, a century ago. 
 The elegant Hotel Byron stands upon the slope of the 
 hill, between Chillon and Villeneuve. "It is an his- 
 torical fact, that in 830, A. D., Louis le Debonnaire in- 
 carcerated the Abbot Wala of Corvey, who had 
 instigated his sons to rebellion, in a castle from which 
 only the sky, the Alps, and lake Leman were visible, 
 and this could have been no other than Chillon." 
 Count Peter of Savoy improved and fortified the castle 
 in the thirteenth century, and it now stands much as 
 he left it. The strong pillars in the vaults are in the 
 early Romanesque style, being very large and massive, 
 and belong to the original edifice. The Counts of 
 Savoy frequently resided in the castle, and it was sub- 
 sequently converted into a state prison. Since 1798, 
 it has been used as a military arsenal. 
 
 The mountains back of Chillon are very high, which 
 make it appear to an observer on the deck of a lake 
 steamer, much smaller than it really is, but I was much 
 
 16 
 
242 A KNIGHT TEMPLAE ABROAD. 
 
 disappointed in its size, when T afterwards entered it. 
 A railway skirts the base of the mountain, and runs only 
 a few yards from the castle, which seems to take much 
 of the romance away from the place. At Ouchy, oppo- 
 site the steamboat landing, is a very handsome hotel 
 with neatly laid out grounds, but Sir Dresser and 
 myself directly proceeded from there to Lausanne, 
 which is at least two miles away from the lake, in order 
 to take the train for Berne, the capital of Switzerland, 
 whither our party had preceded us, instead of going on 
 up the lake to see Chillon. 
 
 There is a railway connecting Ouchy and Lausanne, 
 but as we were unable to find out where the station 
 was, we decided to walk, and as the day was warm, and 
 I had a valise and several canes to carry, I found the 
 walk a very fatiguing one. However, we arrived at 
 the Berne railway station at last, and then we found 
 ourselves in an irregular, rambling, old city, which owes 
 much of its fame to the fact that Gibbon spent much 
 time there, and there completed his great history of the 
 " Decline and Fall of the Eoman Empire." The 
 ground from Ouchy to Lausanne rises all the way, and 
 the city itself, which was the Lausonium of the 
 Romans, is now the capital of the Canton of Yaud, and 
 occupies a beautiful and commanding situation on the 
 terraced slopes of Mont Jorat, and has a noble cathe- 
 dral and a castle, which are in opposite parts of the city 
 from each other. 
 
 The cathedral was erected in 1235-75, and was 
 consecrated by Gregory X., in presence of Rudolph 
 
LAUSANNE. 243 
 
 of Hapsburg, and is a simple but massive, Gothic 
 edifice, and has been undergoing restoration since 
 1870. It stands upon a terrace, and its command- 
 ing situation is approached from the market-place 
 by a flight of 160 steps. In 1537, a famous disputa- 
 tion took place in this church in which Calvin, Faul, 
 and Viret participated, and which resulted in the 
 removal of the Episcopal See to Freiburg, and the 
 separation of the Canton of Vaud from the Church of 
 Rome, as well as the suppression of the supremacy of 
 Savoy. The interior of the cathedral, which is 352 
 feet long and 150 feet wide, is remarkable for its symme- 
 try of proportion. 
 
 Among the most noted dead in the cathedral are 
 the Russian Countess Orloff, Lady Stratford de 
 Redcliffe, whose husband was, at the time of his 
 wife's death, the English Embassador to Switzer- 
 land, the Countess Gimborn, who was the mother of 
 the Baroness Stein (her husband being the famous war 
 minister of Frederick the Great of Prussia j, and Major 
 Daniel who was beheaded as a traitor. A tablet to 
 his memory on the wall of the cathedral bears this 
 tribute to his patriotism. " To the memory of Major 
 Daniel, who died on the scaffold April 24, 1723, a mar- 
 tyr to the rights and liberty of the people of Vaud." 
 
 One of the leading hotels in Lausanne is called the 
 Hotel Gibbon, and in the garden in the rear of the 
 dining-room. Gibbon wrote the last chapters of his 
 great work, which it is said he conceived while sitting 
 upon a broken column in the Coliseum (fit type of the 
 
244 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 decay and downfall of that wondrous Eoman Empire), 
 and he ended his arduous literary labors on the banks 
 of the beautiful lake of Geneva. To quote his own 
 words: "It was on a night in June, 1787, between the 
 hours of 11 and 12, that I wrote the last line of the 
 last page in a summer house in my garden. After 
 laying down my pen, I took several turns in a berceau^ 
 or covered walk, of acacias, which commands a pros- 
 pect of the country, the lake, and the mountains. The 
 air was temperate, the sky was serene, the silver orb 
 of the moon was reflected from the waves, and all 
 nature was silent." And yet this great intellect, of 
 whom Byron speaks as " sapping a solemn creed with 
 solemn sneer," lived without God, and without hope 
 in the world. 
 
 The steamboats on the lake are neat and clean, and 
 their attaches are polite and accommodating. The first- 
 class passengers sit on the upper deck in the stern of the 
 boat, while the others take their places on the bow of 
 the boat, which is a few feet lower than the portion of 
 the boat where the first-class passengers stay, and this 
 is covered with an awning. The steersman stands at 
 the stern of the boat, and the captain stands on one of 
 the paddle boxes and gives his directions to the en- 
 gineer below through a speaking trumpet, which seems 
 strange to us. The boats are not very large, but some 
 of them are quite fast, and if you desire a nice luncheon 
 you will find it in the neat little cabin below, which is 
 usually ornamented with neat little views of Alpine 
 scenery. 
 
FEMALE COSTUMES. 245 
 
 Although Switzerland has one capital and one 
 united government, yet it is made up of many can- 
 tons, and each has its own peculiar dress and its own 
 kind of money, although they are usually only a few 
 miles across, and each bordering on the other, and yet 
 they retain these peculiarities from one generation to 
 another. The dress of the female peasants is not only 
 odd and antique, but very different, as you travel out 
 of one Canton and into another. In Freiburg, which 
 we passed through on our way to Berne, you will 
 notice the females wearing black crape caps with wings 
 like huge fans projecting on each side. 
 
 As the train leaves Lausanne and winds around the 
 mountain side towards Berne, yon obtain a most mag- 
 nificent view of the beautiful lake spread out for many 
 miles behind and below you, and as I reluctantly took 
 my last look at the lovely view as it fast receded from 
 my eyes, I thought of the " last sigh of the Moor," 
 when he took his farewell glance at Grenada, from an 
 eminence many miles away from the scene of his 
 former glories and triumphs. Byron has summed up 
 its beauties so inimitably that I hope I may be par- 
 doned, if I round off this poor sketch of the manifold 
 attractions of this lovely spot by still another quotation 
 from '< Childe Harold's Pilgrimage," (although I feel 
 that I hardly need to apologize for quoting anything 
 from Byron, provided that it be done appropriately,) 
 and I am satisfied, from my experience, that you can 
 not travel in Switzerland, and along the Rhine, with- 
 out being tempted to quote him with great frequency, 
 
246 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 because he has described with all the fiery intensity of 
 his incomparable genius those entrancingly beautiful 
 historic spots, and in such glowing lines as no other 
 pen has ever equaled, or ever can. 
 
 " Clear placid Leman, thy contrasted lake 
 
 With the wild world I dwelt in is a thing 
 Which warns me, with its stillness, to forsake 
 
 Earth's troubled waters for a purer spring* 
 
 This quiet sail is as a noiseless wing 
 To waft me from destruction ; once I loved 
 
 Torn ocean's roar, but thy soft murmuring 
 Sounds sweet, as if a sister's voice reproved. 
 That I, with stern delights, should e'er have been so moved. 
 
 " It is the hush of night, and all between 
 
 Thy margin and the mountains, dusk yet clear. 
 Mellowed, and mingling, yet distinctly seen, 
 
 Save darkened Jura, whose capt heights appear 
 
 Precipitately steep ; and drawing near, 
 There breaths a living fragrance, from the shore, 
 
 Of flowers, yet fresh with childhood; on the ear 
 
 Drops the light drip of the suspended oar, 
 Or, chirps the grasshopper, one good night carol more. 
 
 " At intervals, some bird from out the brakes 
 
 Starts into life a moment, then is still; 
 
 There seems a floating whisper on the hill, 
 But that is fancy — for the starlight dews, 
 
 All silently, their tears of love instill, 
 Weeping themselves away." 
 
SWITZERLAND. 247 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 SWITZEELAND CONTINUED. 
 
 fHE trip from Lausanne to Berne takes about four 
 hours, and the portion of the route from Lausanne 
 to Chexbres is extremely beautiful, and the views are 
 said far to surpass those to be seen on any other Swiss 
 railway. Freiburg, the most important place between 
 Lausanne and Berne, was founded in 1175, and stands 
 on a rocky height nearly surrounded by the river 
 Sarine, its situation being very similar to that of Berne, 
 which is encircled by the river Aare which flows one 
 hundred feet below the city, Berne being situated on a 
 sandstone peninsula. The city of Freiburg lies on the 
 boundary between the French and German tongues, 
 • the lower portion of Switzerland in the main using the 
 French language, while the upper portion, lying towards 
 Germany, naturally, gravitates to that language. 
 Freiburg has a mixture of German and French; most 
 of the inhabitants speaking French, but German is yet 
 spoken in the lower quarters. The city is noted for 
 the big organ, and its two fine suspension bridges, and 
 the latter are remarkable, the one for its great length, 
 and the other for its extreme beauty. The big organ 
 is to be seen in the Gothic church of St. Nicholas, 
 which was founded in 1258, and completed in 1500 and 
 
248 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 has been recently restored. It has a tower 280 feet 
 high, which dates back to 1452. 
 
 This organ is one of the finest in Europe, and has 
 7,800 pipes, some of them thirty-two feet long, and 
 sixty-four stops. It is said to be equal in tone ami 
 volume to a full orchestra of the finest musicians. 
 The large suspension bridge is supported on four 
 cables of iron wire, each one composed of more than a 
 thousand small wires. This bridge is 905 feet long, is 
 twenty-eight feet wide, and hangs suspended above the 
 water, like a spider's web, 174 feet. 
 
 The other bridge connects two mountains across a 
 deep and picturesque ravine which opens into the val- 
 ley of the Sarine, and is 300 feet high and about 750 
 feet lono;. The shafts of this brido-e are sunk in the 
 solid rock of the mountains, and down these the wires 
 that sustain the bridge are. dropped so that you see no 
 pillars, and, in fact, none are used. The other is 
 secured by 128 anchors, attached to blocks of stone, • 
 which are far below the surface of the earth. 
 
 Berne, the capital of Switzerland, has about 45,000 in- 
 habitants, and stands in a large bend of the river Aare, 
 which surrounds the city on three sides, doubling back 
 on itself, and which gives the city rather a picturesque 
 location. The Canton joined the Swiss confederation 
 in 1353, and is the most important of all the Swiss 
 cantons. The main street of the city is about a mile 
 long, and runs from east to west, and has several dif- 
 ferent names in different parts of the city, and many 
 of the old streets are flanked with arcades and are used 
 
THE FAMOUS CLOCK. 249 
 
 by foot passengers. The bear, which is the favorite 
 emblem of this city, is to be met with almost every- 
 where. The city has numerous fountains which are 
 adorned with statues of various kinds. The most curious 
 fountain, however, to be seen in Berne is the fountain 
 of Ogres, which is situated in the Kornhaus-Platz 
 near the tower which contains the famous clock of Berne. 
 This fountain is surmounted by a grotesque figure, 
 which is about to devour a child, while the other chil- 
 dren doomed to the same fate, protrude from his pocket 
 and girdle, while below is a troop of armed bears. 
 The bear is also to be seen on the neio^hboring; " foun- 
 tain of bears," all equipped with shield, sword, banner, 
 and helmet. The " bear pit," where they have a few 
 bears constituting a kind of zoological garden on a 
 small scale, is a great resort for the people of the 
 city. 
 
 A troop of bears go through a performance on 
 the east side of the clock-tower two minutes before 
 every hour. At about three minutes before the hour 
 strikes on the tower clock, a wooden cock prepares 
 the spectators for the spectacle by flapping its wingSj 
 and crowing; the bears then march around a seated 
 figure, and a man grotesquely dressed strikes the bell 
 a certain number of times according to the hour. The 
 cock then crows for the second time, and when the hour 
 strikes, the seated figure, which is that of a bearded old 
 man, turns an hour glass and counts the hour by rais- 
 ing his scepter and opening his mouth, while the figure 
 of the bear on the right of the old man, imitates him 
 
250 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 by inclinations of his head and at the same time a stone 
 figure, dressed in armor strikes the hour on a bell with 
 a hammer. The cock ends the performance by crow- 
 ing a third time. There is always to be seen a num- 
 ber of persons around the clock tower, just before the 
 hour, waiting to see the performance. 
 
 On Sundays and holidays, the crowds of people fill 
 the long street which stretches from one end of the 
 town to the other, all dressed in their holiday attire, 
 with the glittering brooches and silver chains depend- 
 ing from their shoulders, as is the custom of the Can- 
 ton. 
 
 All around the bear pit is a scene of good humor 
 and enjoyment. Near the pit are stalls filled with 
 all manner of refreshments for the assembled crowd, 
 and all manner of toys for the children, the bear, of 
 course, largely predominating ; and I remember in par- 
 ticular seeing one toy which represented a bear acting 
 the school-master, wearing a pair of spectacles, and 
 with a book in his hand and a very knowing look, 
 hearing a class of seven or eight bears recite their les- 
 sons, and I brought several of these bear toys of 
 various kinds to my little nephews as souvenirs of 
 Berne. 
 
 Very often you will see persons buying buns and 
 other sweetmeats to feed to the bears, who devour them 
 with great gusto. 
 
 Next we visit the cathedral, which is a Gothic structure 
 about 300 feet long, 125 feet wide, and 75 feet high, 
 which dates back to 1421, completed in 1573, and was 
 
THE CATHEDRAL. 251 
 
 restored in 1850. The portal of the cathedral is very 
 fine ; the sculptures represent the last judgment ; in 
 the outer arches are the Savior above, with the Virgin 
 Mary, and John the Baptist on the left and right, and 
 also the twelve Apostles; in the smaller arches of the 
 portals, are the prophets and the wise and foolish vir- 
 gins. The tower rises to the height of 134 feet, but 
 remains in an unfinished state. The keeper of the 
 cathedral lives at the top of the tower, whict^ requires 
 223 steps to get to the top of it, and the water which 
 he uses up there, is forced up by natural hydraulic 
 pressure from the neighboring mountains. He shows 
 you the relative proportions of some of the largest 
 bells in the world, and from the gallery around the 
 tower you obtain a superb view of the city below you 
 and the surrounding country and the river Aare for 
 many miles, which flows almost 250 feet below you. 
 The cathedral contains very few monuments, but has 
 an organ almost equal to that at Freiburg. 
 
 Berne occupies a lofty situation, and is noted for the 
 exquisite views to be had from there in fine weather of 
 the snow-tipped Alps of the Bernese Oberland, which 
 are visible from all the open spaces in Berne. The 
 Federal Council hall of Berne is a very handsome 
 structure in the Florentine style, 400 feet long and 
 165 feet broad, which was completed in 1857. The 
 sittings of the legislative Assembly, which generally 
 occur in the month of July, are open to the public. 
 Aside from its being the capital, there is not much in 
 Berne to interest the passing tourist, it only affording 
 
25 2 A KNIGHT TEMPLAE ABEOAD. 
 
 a convenient place to stay over all night for us from 
 Lausanne to Interlaken, which is the Swiss Saratoga, 
 and is as beautiful a valley as can be found in the 
 Alps, if not any where. 
 
 We left Berne by rail on Friday, August 3d, 
 for Interlaken. Our route was by rail as far as the 
 lake of Thun, where we went on board the steamer 
 Bubenburg for a sail on the placid sheet of water, 
 which reflects from its clear surface the snow 
 white peaks of Stockhorn, Wiesen, Eigher, and 
 Monch, which rise in solemn grandeur along the 
 quiet shores of the pretty little Swiss lake, but we 
 missed the beautiful blue water of which we have 
 seen the last in Switzerland in the lake of Gen- 
 eva. The water of the other Swiss lakes is more 
 or less of a greenish hue. Interlaken gets its name, 
 which means " between the lakes," because of its sit- 
 uation between the lakes of Thun and Brienz, which are 
 about four or five miles apart, and Interlaken is located 
 in the beautiful valley between these two lakes, and is 
 hemmed in on both sides by high mountain peaks. 
 
 There you get the first view of the famous Jungfrau, 
 which is only 15 miles away, and whose top is covered 
 with perpetual snow. When we disembarked from the 
 little steamer, we took our seats in the two story nar- 
 row-gauge cars and would soon have been at our des- 
 tination had not a carriage been off" the track directly 
 ahead of us. However, this was soon put on the track 
 again, and a short ride brought us to this beautiful 
 spot, which is certainly one of the fairest and brightest 
 
INTERLAKEN. 253 
 
 ill the world. Interlaken seems to be away out of the 
 the world, and yet on account of its beautiful scenery, 
 it is estimated that 60,000 tourists visit this beautiful 
 spot every summer. It has a magnificent avenue run- 
 ning past the leading hotels and stores, and any num- 
 ber of beautiful drives and walks around it. There is 
 a wonderful contrast to be seen between the peasants 
 in their homely, though often picturesque costumes, 
 and the stylish suits and magnificent dresses worn by the 
 thousands of fashionable tourists who come there in 
 the summer. 
 
 Our party stopped at the Hotel des Alpes, which 
 was a good enough kind of a house, but rather 
 high-priced, considering the accommodations fur- 
 nished, for I remember that I paid a franc^ or 
 twenty cents, for a cup of coff'ee which I ordered one 
 day at the luncheon, which I thought was pretty steep ; 
 but there is a magnificent hotel there called the Vic- 
 toria, which is truly sumptuous in all its appointments, 
 and the grounds of the hotel are also very handsome. 
 Not far from Interlaken are the ruins of Unspunnen, 
 the reputed residence of Manfred, and Byron lays the 
 foundation of his drama around the Valley of Inter- 
 laken. 
 
 At night the favorite resort in Interlaken is the 
 Casino, a building in the Swiss style with garden, 
 reading-room, wide verandas, etc. There is a fine 
 orchestra here, and a beautiful fountain which they 
 illuminate with colored lights, and the efiect is very 
 fine. A small admission fee is charged, and you can 
 
254 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 sit down and listen to the band, sip a little wine, take 
 a smoke, and enjoy yourself generally at a very small 
 expense. I first saw here an interesting game of 
 chance in which many ladies and young girls, too, 
 seemed to take a great interest, they buying tickets as 
 well as the men, called Chevallier, or the " game of 
 jockeys." It consisted of eight horses, with their 
 riders ranged around a circle covered with green 
 cloth, and all started at the same time by the operator. 
 You paid a franc for a ticket, the horses being num- 
 bered from one up to eight, and your ticket contained 
 some one of these numbers, and if the horse whose 
 number corresponded with your ticket was ahead at 
 the close of the race, you would get seven francs, the 
 operator always charging one franc out of every eight, 
 every time he let the horses race around. Often he 
 would sell several sets of tickets on each race. But if 
 your horse went the least bit beyond the goal, though 
 he might be ahead of all the rest you would lose. I 
 tried the amusing game with varying success for several 
 nights, as we remained at Interlaken from Friday even- 
 ing until the following Monday morning, and at last 
 gave up the game about even; but I noticed one man 
 who had remarkable success, and won several hand- 
 fuls of silver, while I was playing with the most indif- 
 ferent success. Once, my number was the winning one, 
 but I had unfortunately dropped it on the floor, which 
 was covered with hundreds of other tickets, and the 
 croupier at first refused to pay me ; but T kept jabbering 
 away at him in the very best French at my command, 
 
LE CHEVALLIER. 255 
 
 and kept insisting so persistently that I had won arid he 
 must pay me, that finally he gave me my seven francs. 
 
 This race track, on a small scale, brought back to my 
 mind the fine races I had seen in the Blue Grass re- 
 gions of my old Kentucky home. By the way, I 
 must not omit to mention that at Interlaken, I had the 
 pleasure of meeting ex-Governor R, M. Bishop of 
 Ohio, with his daughters, Mrs. Rev. W. T. Moore, of 
 London, and Miss Annie Bishop, of Cincinnati. 
 Governor Bishop was many years ago a school- 
 mate of my father's, and then a merchant in my 
 native town, for a number of years, and afterwards 
 mayor of Cincinnati and Governor of Ohio, having 
 thus, to some extent, fixed a precedent for President 
 Cleveland's astonishing career. Governor Bishop hav- 
 ing also prominently been spoken of for Vice-Presi- 
 dent with Til den in 1880, had the <' sage of Grey 
 Stone," been renominated for President at Cincinnati. 
 
 The next morning, we started in diligences to visit 
 the famous Grindenwald glacier, which is about twelve 
 miles from Interlaken, and the ascent required several 
 hours. It was a damp, gloomy morning, but that was 
 the only day we could devote to the purpose, as the 
 next day would be Sunday, so we started out rather 
 reluctantly. Our road lay most of the way along the 
 valley of the river Lutschine, which is formed by the 
 melting of this glacier, and is a rushing, roaring 
 mountain stream. At frequent intervals along the 
 way we met a great many children with fruit, carved 
 work of all kinds, bouquets and bunches of the beau- 
 
256 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABEOAD. 
 
 tif 111 edelweiss^ that snow white little flower which grows 
 on the highest parts of the Alps, and which reminded 
 me of the beautiful story by that name of Erckmann 
 Chatrian, which contains the sad incident of the young 
 woman buried with her family under an avalanche, and 
 rescued in a few daj'^s, but when restored to the light 
 of day she found her hair, like that of Queen Marie 
 Antoinette during her cruel suiferings, turned entirely 
 gray. 
 
 At a bridge which we crossed, there was quite 
 a number of boys who held in their hands large 
 bunches of weeds, and also wedge-shaped mallets, 
 and I wondered what they were for, but I soon found 
 out that they proposed to keep the flies off of the 
 horses, and when ever the driver stopped to let his 
 horses blow a little, they would " chock " the carriage 
 wheels with their mallets, and for these services they 
 expected a few sous or centimes from the tourists in 
 the diligences. 
 
 One little boy walked along by the side of the horses 
 of our diligence^ brushing them all the time industri- 
 ously, although there was not a fly to be seen, and one 
 dear little girl followed us so far through the rain, that 
 I had her get up in the driver's seat, for some distance 
 while he walked by the side of his horses, in order to 
 lighten their load a little. The Alpine roads are as 
 fine as can be found any where, the roadway being as 
 hard and firm as the eternal hills, and every ten feet 
 or so, where the road is at all dangerous, are erected 
 stone posts from two to three feet high, and at the 
 
VISIT TO GRINDEWALD. 257 
 
 most dangerous places these posts have timbers 
 fastened on their tops with iron spikes, thus making 
 the roadway perfectly safe. Sometimes you see walls 
 of solid masonry, from ten to twenty feet high, built 
 on the side next to the mountain, to protect the road 
 from landslides. The bridges are generally of iron 
 and stone, and built in the most substantial manner. 
 
 At one place on the way to Grindewald, we passed a 
 vast deposit of stone and debris of every description, 
 which had been caused, by a recent scaling oft of the 
 mountain side, which extended for several hundred 
 yards in breadth, and even way down to the very brink 
 of the river Lutschine. The roadway was cut through 
 this vast mass of debris to a depth of four or five feet. 
 The gorge of the Lutschine, ordinarily, presents a 
 scene of indescribable grandeur and gloom — perpen- 
 dicular clifts, many hundreds of feet in height, rise on 
 each side, and the swift mountain-torrent went rushing 
 by us with a roar something akin to what we had heard 
 at the whirlpool rapids of our own Niagara Falls. 
 
 About four or five miles from Interlaken, the main 
 road proceeds on to Lauterbrunnen, but as we were 
 on our way to the Grindenwald Glacier, we here 
 branched off to the left, and crossing the foaming 
 torrent of the Lutschine (which at intervals would 
 sprinkle us with spray), upon a substantial bridge, we 
 proceeded on our way up the ascent of the Griinden- 
 wald. Every once in a while, little girls, when offer- 
 ing us fruit, would burst forth in one of their wild 
 Alpine choruses, sung in a high falsetto tone (in fact, 
 
 17 
 
258 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 if you will pardon me for saying so, they frequently 
 made a false set-to, and, by the way, this is only the 
 second time I believe, that I have offended in this 
 manner, but really I feel Y2bih.Qv pungent this morning 
 while I write), and the weird unearthly music was in- 
 deed novel and refreshing to most of us. The effect 
 of this novel music on the traveler is often most aston- 
 ishing, and the poet Southey, in speaking of it says: 
 "It is surely the wildest chorus that was ever heard 
 by human ears; a song not of articulate sounds, but 
 in which the voice is used as a mere instrument of 
 music, more flexible than any which art could pro- 
 duce, sweet, powerful, and thrilling beyond descrip- 
 tion." It was while on this trip, too, that for the first 
 time, I heard the full rich piercing melody of the Al- 
 pine horn, and its reverberations, echoed and re-echoed 
 back from the steep mountain precipices which sur- 
 rounded us on every side, was, indeed, sweet music to 
 my ears, which had never before heard -such entrancing 
 melodies. This musicjan had selected a place right 
 opposite some high precipices especially adapted to 
 return the echo from peak to peak, and truly his music 
 was superb. 
 
 The Alpine horn from which this wild untutored peas- 
 ant was drawing forth the most melodious sounds, is 
 about six feet long, and is only a tube of wood, 
 called the " Zodlyn," bound about with birchen 
 bark, and from it sounds are evoked which I thought 
 not the finest cornet in the world could equal. We 
 gave him a few small pieces of Swiss money, and 
 
ALPINE ROADS. • 259 
 
 we heard him for some time after we had passed, 
 makino: the welkin rino; with his sweet melodious 
 notes. During the tourist season the Alpine roads 
 are thronged with these artless (?) musicians of 
 nature, and they pick up no doubt a good many 
 francs from the passers-by who, like myself, doubtless, 
 are equally entranced by the novelty. I suppose it 
 was the " Ranz des Vaches," (in German the word is 
 kuhreihen), "rows of cows," that he played for us, 
 and, hitherto, I had thought it to be a single air, but in 
 Switzerland it seems to stand for a class of melodies. 
 
 The words mean " cow rows," and allude to the man- 
 ner in which the cows come home along the Alpine 
 paths at milking time. The shepherd, it is said, 
 marches in front of the herd and they wind along 
 slowly after him in strict obedience to the musical 
 tones of his horn. It is said that a Swiss peasant 
 would feel a touch of the heimweh^ or home sick- 
 ness, were he to hear the Hanz des Vaches any 
 where in foreign lands, and they never play these 
 melodies in Swiss regiments of the French army, 
 because of the great tendency they have to produce 
 desertions among the Swiss, who are yet among the 
 bravest and best of mercenaries, as witness their devo- 
 tion especially to Louis XVII. and Marie Antoinette, 
 and to whose unswerving bravery and fidelity the 
 famous " Lion of Lucerne," carved out of the solid 
 rock, bears a mute testimony, which yet almost speaks. 
 
 When we reached Grundenwald, the first thing that 
 we did was to refresh the inner man with a luncheon at 
 
260 . A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 a nice little inn, and a party of us, consisting of eleven, 
 then mounted our horses for the purpose of ascending 
 as far as the glacier, and at that point we had to dis- 
 mount, of course, and make the rest of our journey on 
 foot. 
 
 On our way up the mountains, our guides had us 
 dismount at a mountain hut, for the purpose of taking 
 us into a deep gorge near at hand, where we got our 
 first view of the massive glacier, through a narrow 
 opening at the upper end of the gorge, whose cliffs 
 were here at least 200 feet high, and through which the 
 Lutschine rushed with a velocity, and a roar almost 
 equal to Niagara, sure enough. While we were in this 
 gorge, a man fired off an anvil, and the report was per- 
 fectly deafening and overwhelming, and the echoes 
 reverberated and repeated themselves with a crash like 
 unto the final upheaval of nature. It was, indeed, 
 truly awful in that wild gorge, and if I had not known 
 that the anvil was going to be fired, I do not know 
 what might have been the result, and I should cer- 
 tainly have clapped my hands to my ears^ and have 
 concluded that Gabriel must be blowing the last 
 trump. 
 
 We then remounted our horses, and proceeded 
 slowly and laboriously on our way up the steep ascent. 
 Just as we were leaving the hut on the mountain side, 
 we saw below us the portly form of Senator Sawyer, 
 being carried up the steep ascent in a kind of Sedan 
 chair, borne by two men, but he did not venture on the 
 ascent of the glacier, which we found to be about the 
 
CLIMBING THE GLACIER. 261 
 
 most exhausting task, I suppose, that we had ever 
 undertaken. 
 
 Before we mounted upon the glacier, which is said 
 to be more dangerous and inaccessible, than the more 
 frequented Mer de Glace at Chamounix, we were con- 
 ducted by our guides for some distance into a cave, cut 
 out of the solid ice of the glacier, in which we found 
 two Swiss women lying in wait for us unsuspecting 
 tourists, and they played upon instruments called a 
 zither, and sang for us the national airs of their coun- 
 try, and finally they gave us a melody to the tune of 
 our own "America," which so enthused one of our 
 party. Sir Libbey , that he actually gave them a five franc 
 piece, while we all contributed more or less of '< lucre ; '* 
 but how much more enjoyable would it have been to 
 us all, had we not known that they were there only 
 for moneys and the execution of our national airs was 
 wholly mechanical, without the least regard to the 
 grand and patriotic sentiments which hearing them 
 inspired in a true lover of our country. 
 
 We then mounted a long ladder, by means of 
 which we got upon the top of the glacier, and 
 then commenced a toilsome, as well as a danger- 
 ous, experience. One of the party, who had been 
 extremely solicitous to put his foot upon a Swiss 
 glacier, here abandoned us, saying that his "life 
 was too valuable (?) to his family for him to undergo 
 the risk," and so we lost the pleasure of his congenial 
 society on our perilous and difficult tramp, for such it 
 
262 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 was. Our guides, of whom we had two, often had to 
 cut places in the ice for our feet, and far below us we 
 often heard the roar of the waters which were formed 
 by the melting of the glacier, but still we persevered, 
 in spite of many severe falls, and amidst many dan- 
 gers, until we reached the very summit of the glacier, 
 which the guides told us was more than 8,000 feet 
 above the valley below, glaciers generally beginning 
 at about this height or less, while above this are snow- 
 fields which the hottest summer's sun can make no 
 impression upon, and the last part of our ascent was 
 over perpetual snow, we then being above the line 
 where the snow melts away under the influence of the 
 hot suns of July and August. 
 
 Every once in a while wewould look back, and the 
 houses in the valley below us would seem like doll 
 houses, and the river Lutschine, itself, appeared but 
 as a silver thread in the sun light, which, at 
 intervals, would burst through a rift in the clouds. 
 Near the top of the glacier, we noticed a very large 
 boulder which must have weighed many tons, 
 and which, by the gradual melting away of the gla- 
 cier will, probably, by the lapse of several centuries, 
 find itself deposited in the valley beneath. There 
 are thousands of tons of rock frozen into the glacier, 
 which have become detached from the Alps by the 
 softening influences of the spring and summer. You 
 see hundreds of rivulets on the glacier, and frequently 
 we could hear the roar of one far beneath our feet, 
 
THE AVALANCHE. 263 
 
 which must have been a furious torrent. I got several 
 hard falls but was glad to escape any serious bodily 
 injury, but I felt the effects of the toilsome ascent 
 for several days, the next day which was Sunday, 
 being so stiff that I could hardly walk at all, and I felt 
 as though every bone in my body had been hammered 
 with a big club, but I would not have missed my 
 experience on the glacier for any thing, hardly. 
 
 We finally left the glacier, and ascended some very 
 high cliffs on our left, along which ran a path which led 
 us down to the valley beneath, but we still had several 
 miles before us, having already walked upon the gla- 
 cier probably for the distance of six or eight miles. 
 We ascended about 75 steps in order to reach the 
 mountain side on our left, and the view of the glacier 
 below us was indeed a fine one. While we were as- 
 cending the steep mountain side in order to descend, 
 finally, into the valley beneath, we heard an awful 
 sound as of several thunder storms all rolled in one, 
 and we looked around amazed and bewildered, and lo 
 and behold ! it was an avalanche on the mountain side 
 only a few hundred yards away, and we had passed 
 very near the foot of the mountain where the avalanche 
 occurred only a few minutes before. It left the moun- 
 tain side completely bare, and exposed the naked rock 
 for acres in extent, and then the awful silence which 
 followed the crash of the avalanche seemed to add ten- 
 fold to the solitude and sublimity of the Alps. But 
 let Byron describe it in Manfred ; — 
 
264 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 " Ye toppling crags of ice, 
 Ye avalanclies, whom a breath draws down 
 In mountains o'er whelming; come and crush us. 
 I hear ye momently above, beneath, 
 Crush with a frequent conflict; but ye pass, 
 ' And only fall on things that still would live; 
 On the young, flourishing forest, or the hut 
 And hamlet of the harmless villager. 
 The mists boil up around the glaciers ; clouds 
 Else curling fast beneath me ; white and sulphury. 
 Like foam from the roused ocean of deep hell." 
 
 We stopped at a mountain chalet, on our way down, 
 which is very much on the style of our Western log huts, 
 and loaded down on the roof with stones to save it from 
 the Alpine blasts, to refresh ourselves, and then we 
 had a man to fire an anvil again, and the effect was 
 grander than ever, and seemed to ring in our ears for 
 several minutes. We picked our way slowly and care- 
 fully down the mountain path, and finally, late in the 
 afternoon, we reached the valley beneath, where we 
 found our horses waiting for us, which, however, we 
 mounted with much less alacrity and a great deal more 
 stiffness and awkwardness than we did on starting out, 
 and finally reached the inn once more, where we re- 
 sumed our places in our diligences, and drove back to 
 the beautiful valley we had left in the morning, and 
 not long after we arrived at our hotel, the balance of 
 our party, whom we had left in London drove up, and 
 then ensued a lively scene, all shaking hands, ex- 
 changing reminiscences, etc., until the late dinner 
 hour arrived, to which we all were able to do ample 
 
THE JUNGFRAU. 265 
 
 justice, especially those of us who had taken the weary 
 tramp upon the glacier. 
 
 That evening, which was Saturday, the most of 
 our party repaired to the Casino, spoken of above, 
 and amused themselves in various ways. The next 
 day was Sunday, and a beautiful day it was, too, 
 and I strolled down the beautiful avenue called 
 the " Hoheweg, or Highway," which is lined with 
 fine walnut trees, and is the favorite resort of vis- 
 itors to this lovely spot, and took a view of the famous 
 ** Jungfrau" (a " maiden " no longer, however, since 
 it has been profaned long since by the footsteps of 
 man), through a very powerful telescope, for which I 
 paid the man, I believe, a few centimes. This famous 
 peak, which is 13,671 feet in height, and whose top 
 and irregular and uneven sides are always covered with 
 the eternal snow, is flanked on the right by the Silber- 
 horn, which is 12,156 feet in height, and on the left 
 by the Schneehorn, which is 11,204 feet in height, and 
 these lofty mountain peaks are, indeed, awe-inspiring 
 to the ordinary observer. 
 
 The foot of man first scaled the awful peak of 
 the "Jungfrau" in 1811, when it was ascended 
 by two brothers by the name of Meyers, and from 
 that time until the year 1856 the ascent was only 
 accomplished five times, but though extremely fatigu- 
 ing and quite expensive, still if you have good and 
 reliable guides, and have had some experience, pre- 
 viously, in climbing mountain fastnesses by the aid 
 of Alpen-stocks, it is now said to be almost free from 
 
266 A KNI&HT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 peril, but I thought, as I looked at its awful heights, 
 after my experience of the day before on the Griinden- 
 wald glacier, that I would hardly like to attempt its as- 
 cent under any consideration, and more especially as a 
 number of heartrending catastrophes have occurred, 
 and quite a number of lives of adventurous tourists 
 have been lost in making the terrible and dangerous 
 ascent. 
 
 As I had not yet experienced the sensation of attend- 
 ing religious services in a foreign land, I then wended 
 my way toward the ancient monastery and nunnery, 
 which was hard by our hotel, and which was founded 
 in 1130, and suppressed in 1528, which is surrounded 
 by fine walnut trees, many of them of ancient growth. 
 The monastery has been devoted to various purposes, 
 and contains within its various buildings a hospital, a 
 prison, an English chapel, a French-Protestant and a 
 Scottish-Presbyterian congregation, and a Roman 
 Catholic place of worship, and you may judge from 
 this of the size of the structure. I attended, of course, 
 the English chapel, where I witnessed the regular ser- 
 vice of the Church of England, and I suppose that 
 nine-tenths of the congregation were tourists, like my- 
 self. The rector is paid, mainly, by contributions 
 from tourists, and what is lacking, I understood, was 
 made up by assistance from the mother church in 
 England. 
 
 On that Sunday, I noticed that the plates were lib- 
 erally filled by the congregation. One of the hymns, 
 which the congregation all joined in singing, seemed 
 
A SABBATH IN SWITZERLAND. 267 
 
 to be especially applicable to tourists, for I re- 
 member that it spoke of a " rest when traveling days 
 were o'er," and it seemed especially selected for those 
 who were that day, the most of them at any rate, en- 
 gaged in the worship of God in a foreign land. A 
 great many nice excursions may be made from this 
 point, but, of course, we had no time to make any 
 others than the one we have spoken of. The shops are 
 full of the finest wood carvings which are to be found 
 anywhere in Switzerland, and are much resorted to by 
 tourists, when they have seen the sights of the place 
 and its neighborho'od. 
 
 I saw two clocks in one large store there, one 
 representing Atlas, with a clock instead of the world 
 on his back, worth 1,500 francs, or $300, and another 
 representing a huntsman, almost life size, robbing 
 an eagle's nest, and defending himself from the at- 
 tacks of the mother-bird, with the face of the clock 
 below, which was priced at 2,500 francs, or $500. 
 The next day we bade good-by to our friends who had 
 joined us on the Saturday before, who were to make 
 the same excursion to Griindenwald on Monday, which 
 we had made the Saturday before, and getting into the 
 buses we drove to the railway station, and took the 
 train for the lake of Brienz, a mile or two above In- 
 terlaken, and then went aboard the steamer Oberland 
 for a sail on the pretty little lake of Brienz, on our 
 way to Lucerne which is situated on the lake of the 
 Fouti Cantons, and which figures so prominently in the 
 history of William Tell, and of Switzerland herself. 
 
268 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 This pretty little lake is about nine miles long, and 
 a mile and a half wide, and is enclosed by lofty wooded 
 rocks and mountains. The most noted sight on this 
 lake are the Giessbach Falls, which consist of seven 
 cascades falling from rock to rock from an entire 
 height of 1,148 feet, but from the steamer you only see 
 the lower portion of the falls. There is a fine hotel 
 and cable tramway here, and when the falls are illumi- 
 nated, the sight can not fail to be a pleasing one. 
 This is done every evening from the first of June until 
 the last of September, but as we passed the falls in day 
 time, of course, we missed the illumination which, 
 from what I saw of the illumination of the foun- 
 tain in the Casino at Interlaken, must be well worth 
 the seeing. 
 
 At Brienz on the opposite side of the lake from 
 Giessbach Falls, we disembarked from our neat little 
 steamer, and after luncheon at a little hotel near 
 the lake, and from which we got a fine view of the 
 Giessbach Falls on the other side, which was much 
 finer than the one we obtained when at the landing; near 
 them, we seated ourselves in the diligences for the ro- 
 mantic ride over the famous Briinig Pass down to the 
 lake of Alpnach, on the other side of the Alps. I 
 had a seat in the coupe, which is the front part of the 
 diligence^ with a glass front, and is considered the best 
 place from which to obtain a good view. My com- 
 panion was a gentleman of intelligence who, as I after- 
 wards found out, was a native of Norway, although he 
 possessed a very fair knowledge of the English Ian- 
 
A BEAUTIFUL VALLEY. 269 
 
 guage, and during the ride, which lasted about six hours, 
 I found his company very agreeable. 
 
 This famous pass of the Briinig was a mere bridle 
 path forty years ago, and then afforded nothing of 
 striking interest, except the sublime view of the valley 
 of Meyringen, which then, as now, no doubt, presented 
 from its summit a perfect picture. Now, however, 
 the road over the pass is superbly engineered, with 
 hardly a loose pebble upon it, and at least twenty feet 
 wide, with ample room for any number of vehicles to 
 pass, and in the summer season this road is thronged 
 with them, as the Swiss subsist mainly upon tourists 
 who come to see their mountain country, and the 
 scenery is romantic and beautiful. 
 
 The view, as we gradually ascend to the top 
 of the pass, is one never to be forgotten, com- 
 manding as it does, a fine view of the lake and 
 town of Brienz, which we had just quitted, the Giess- 
 bach falls, and the beautiful falls of the Keich- 
 enbach, falling from perpendicular cliffs directly 
 opposite us, 1,150 feet high, which presented a spec- 
 tacle I have never seen equaled, the river Aare wind- 
 ing like a silver thread through the valley beneath ; 
 and as we wound around and around (I think going 
 over the road below us not less than four or five times 
 in reaching the summit), I kept watching the beautiful 
 cataract on our right, and wondering whether we would 
 ever rise above it, and finally we did sure enough. 
 
 We stopped under a huge rock which overhung the 
 splendid road to rest our weary horses, as it was a 
 
270 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 warm August day, and, while we were there, a little 
 girl sold us some of the nicest strawberries I ever 
 tasted ; and just at the time we were about opposite 
 to the top of the fall of the Reichenbach, I looked 
 back and thought that the scene was surely the finest 
 my eyes had ever gazed upon. Before leaving Brienz 
 I should have stated that it is noted for the exquis- 
 ite wood-carving which is made there, the business 
 employing 600 persons, and I suspect it is here that 
 Interlaken obtains her finest specimens. 
 
 After reaching the summit, we soon leave the Alpine 
 scenery behind us, and pass respectively the lake of 
 Lungern and the Sarner-See, which are both pictur- 
 esque and romantic, the latter being a beautiful sheet 
 of water four miles long, and one and a half wide, and 
 which is said to be well stocked with fish. At Sarnen 
 we changed the horses of our diligences^ and those of 
 us who chose to do so obtained a luncheon at the inn 
 
 Sarnen is not, especially, a place of note, but figures 
 occasionally in Schiller's drama of " William Tell," as 
 it is the capital of the Canton Unterwalden, which was 
 one of the "Four Forest Cities," which formed the 
 Confederacy, from which the Lake of Lucerne, called 
 in French, the " Lake of the Four Cantons," took its 
 name. Lake Lucerne is situated in a basin at the foot 
 of the BriinigPass, and in 1836, the greater portion of 
 this lake was drained into the Sarner-See, in order to 
 reclaim the land which it covered for the purposes of 
 cultivation. It has been lowered at least twenty feet 
 below its former height, and its banks, now quite 
 
LAKE LUCERNE, 271 
 
 steep, look like some old ruined wall. There was 
 once a natural dam between the lake and the Sarner- 
 See, perhaps twenty feet high, and called the Kaiser- 
 Stuhl, or *' Emperor's footstool." A tunnel, 1,300 
 feet long, was bored, through this, with only a thin par- 
 tition of rock to hold back the flood, and this tunnel 
 employed 500 men for some time working on it. The 
 tunnel was exploded by the aid of 1,000 pounds of 
 powder, and the water came through, but the land re- 
 claimed is hardly worth the tilling. 
 
 We soon reached the little lake of Alpnach, which is 
 connected with the lake of Lucerne by a strait so small 
 that a very short draw bridge crosses over it, which is 
 opened to let the steamer, which, in this case, by an- 
 other coincidence, was called the " William Tell," pass 
 and we were right upon the scene of out into the lake of 
 Lucerne, his many noted exploits, we having traveled on 
 the lake of Geneva, on the steamer " Winkelried," an- 
 other of the heroes of Switzerland, which we have 
 already alluded to . Just after passing through the draw- 
 bridge, we landed at Stanstad, where we noticed a 
 hotel named in honor of Arnold Winkelried, and we 
 saw a square pinnacled tower which was erected by 
 the Swiss, in 1308, in order to help them vindicate 
 their recently acquired independence, which is called 
 Schnitz- Sturm, and then we were fairly launched upon 
 the lake of Lucerne, by far the most famous and beau- 
 tiful of all the many lovely lakes of Switzerland, and^ 
 of which we had already seen almost a half a dozen, 
 and traveled upon at least three of them. 
 
272 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 The church at Alpnach, which is a very pretty one, 
 with a neat spire, was erected with the proceeds of the 
 sale of timber from the forests of Pilatus, and which 
 was brought down the famous glide eight miles long, 
 which was erected on the mountains, during the time 
 of Bonaparte, for the purpose of bringing timber for 
 ship building from the mountains, but which is now 
 destroyed. We passed near the foot of Mount Pilatus 
 on the steamer, and this mountain takes its name from 
 the tradition that, after Pontius Pilate surrendered up 
 the Savior to die on the cross, his remorse of conscience 
 became so great that he left his native country, and 
 wandered to the top of this mountain in Switzerland, 
 and there drowned himself in a small lake, whence the 
 mountain gets the name of Mount Pilatus. This slide 
 I have spoken of was eight miles long, and four or 
 five feet wide, and was made of hollowed out logs 
 which formed one continuous trough. It passed over 
 all manner of gorges, and some times through tunnels, 
 and a rivulet of water ran down to lessen the friction, 
 and prevent the logs from taking fire. It is said that 
 a tree one hundred feet long and four feet in diameter 
 would pass over the space of eight miles, at a speed 
 of at least a mile a minute. 
 
LAKE or liUCERNE. 273 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 THE LAKE OF LUCEKNE AND WILLIAM TELL. 
 
 Mf^HE scenery of the lake of Lucerne is said to be 
 (^^ unsurpassed, even by the whole of Europe, which 
 is saying a great deal, but it is truly superb, aside 
 from its historical associations in the struggle of Swit- 
 zerland for freedom against the tyranny of Austria ; 
 and surrounded as it is on every side by the most 
 varied and most beautiful of Alpine scenery, it can 
 hardly fail to inspire the beholder, who sees it for the 
 first time, with a feeling of awe and reverence. The 
 view of the city of Lucerne, as you approach it from 
 the lake, with its picturesque Schweizerhof quay, with 
 its beautiful avenue of chestnut trees, and the long 
 frontage of the elegant Schweizerhof and Luzernerhof 
 hotels, with the ancient walls and the towers of the 
 city in the background, erected in 1385, and which 
 are still in a fine state of preservation , with Rigi-Kulm 
 on one side rising to the lofty elevation of 6,000 feet, 
 and Mt. Pilatus on the other, and behind you, Uri and 
 Engelberg — all this can not soon be forgotten. 
 
 I soon found myself in a nice room in the Luzerner 
 hof , which had been selected for me beforehand by our 
 accomplished and courteous courier, Mr, Mills, which 
 
 18 
 
274 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 commanded a fine view of the grand old cathedral of 
 Lucerne, but I was sorry that my room, as at Geneva, 
 did not command a prospect of the beautiful lake, 
 whose attractive and varied scenery we had lately 
 so reluctantly quitted. This was the farthest point 
 east which our route of travel contemplated, and 
 henceforth, after leaving Lucerne, I was pleased to 
 think that our steps would be "towards the setting 
 sun," for, although Europe may do very well to travel 
 in, I decidedly prefer to keep my abode in the land of 
 my birth. 
 
 The lake itself is almost in the shape of a cross, 
 and at Briinnen, near the upper end of the lake, 
 and not far from the spot where Tell leaped ashore 
 during the storm, when Gessler had caused his chains 
 to be removed in order that he might steer the boat, 
 and save Gessler and his soldiers from the just wrath 
 of heaven, in December, 1315, the three Swiss can- 
 tons of Schwtyz, Unterwalden, and Uri formed a league 
 offensive and defensive, and in 1332, Lucerne joined 
 the league, forming an alliance and a republic which 
 was to last for centuries ; and since then this beautiful 
 lake has been known as the " Lac des Qiiatre Cantons,'^ 
 or " Lake of the Four Cantons," or as Schiller terms it, 
 in his magnificent drama of William Tell, " Die Vier- 
 waldsteitersee," or the lake of the four forest cities 
 in allusion, to the four cities which nestled on its lovely 
 shores and which formed the noted Confederation. 
 But the greatest sight of Lucerne is, after all, the 
 "Lion of Lucerne," which is literally the " Lion of 
 
THE LION OF LUCERNE. 275 
 
 the Place," and is a truly wonderful sight and to see 
 which Dr. Loriraer of our party said he was taking 
 this present trip to Europe, mainly. This is a cele- 
 brated Lion, sculptured out of the natural rock, which 
 is here probably seventy-five high, by the celebrated 
 Danish sculptor, Thorwalsden, in 1821, to the memory 
 of twenty-six officers and 760 soldiers of the Swiss 
 guards who, mercenaries though they were, sealed their 
 allegiance to King Louis XYI. and Marie Antoinette 
 with their blood, dying like heroes in the defense of 
 the Tuileries on August 10th, 1792. 
 
 In Schiller's " William Tell," one of the task mas- 
 ters placed over the for-the-time-being subjugated 
 Swiss, says, "What? are you muttering?" but 'tis 
 like you all ; a base, ungrateful people, fit for nothing 
 but to milk cows, and saunter around the moun- 
 tains," but he saw only with the eye of a suspicious 
 tyrant, for a braver race of people than the Swiss (mer- 
 cenary though they be) has never lived, and their 
 country is well adapted for defense against a foreign 
 foe, for in many a defile and mountain path of Switzer- 
 land, "A hundred men could hold the post, with hardi- 
 hood against the host " and they have always held it or 
 died in the attempt. 
 
 The dying Lion, which is much larger than life, 
 being the immense length of twenty-eight feet, and 
 reclining in a grotto, is seen transfixed with a broken 
 lance, and sheltering the French shield and fieur- 
 de-lis with his paws, and is truly a magnificent tes- 
 timonial to the bravery of the Swiss guards. Di- 
 
276 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 rectly in front of the rock is a pretty sheet of water, 
 in a handsome grotto, which is formed by springs that 
 trickle from the rock itself from which the grand figure 
 is carved. The inscription which is carved beneath 
 the beautiful Lion in the Latin language is as follows : 
 " To the faith and valor of the Helvetii " (Helvetia 
 being the Latin name for Switzerland). '* On the day 
 of the 10th of August, and the 2d and 3d of Septem- 
 ber, 1792, these are the names of those who fell fight- 
 ing most valiantly that they might not falsify their 
 solemn oath — twenty-six officers — sixteen officers 
 survived the slaughter by the ingenious care of friends," 
 and the names are inscribed below. A chapel near by, 
 with the inscription Pax invictis contains the coats of 
 arms of the dead officers who fell in their brave, 
 though vain attempt to repress the blind fury of the 
 sans culottes of Paris. 
 
 I was sorry to hear it said that the rock was gradu- 
 ally disintegrating and scalLng off, and that this grand 
 monument of man's genius, and which has been conse- 
 crated to man's bravery and fidelity, was in danger of 
 being permanently injured, if not finally destroyed, by 
 the action of the elements. Near the Lion is the cele- 
 brated Glacier Garden, which was discovered in 1872, 
 and gives the visitor a very good idea of the action of 
 the ice period, containing about thirty holes formed by 
 whirlpools, and of different sizes, being twenty-six 
 feet wide, and thirty feet deep, and all connected by 
 steps and bridges, and this is considered one of the 
 most curious sights of Lucerjje. The Bathhaus, or 
 
THE HOFKIRCHE. 277 
 
 state house, is well worth a visit, and contains an inter- 
 esting collection of quaint armor, which is well worth 
 seeing. A fresco on the tower represents the death of 
 the magistrate Gundolfuigen at the battle of Sempach, 
 where Winkelried also died. The Hofkirche, or old 
 cathedral, is well worth a visit, which was restored in 
 the seventeenth century, but two slender towers of the 
 original edifice which were erected in 1506, are still to 
 be seen. It contains a famous organ, but as the per- 
 formance always takes place on week days from 6 :30 
 to 7:30 p. m., we could not get to hear it, much 
 to our regret. 
 
 Next, a few of us went aboard of one of the little 
 steamers, which leave Lucerne four or five times 
 a day for various points on the lake, in order to 
 go to Kiissnacht, which is the nearest point to Tell's 
 chapel, which marks the spot where Tell shot Gessler, 
 after having escaped from the boat in the storm, 
 on the lake of Lucerne. I had previously purchased 
 a copy of Schiller's William Tell, with which I had 
 become familiar when a student, and was thus consid- 
 erably refreshed as to the history of the country which 
 I was then traveling through, and which, of course, 
 heightened my enjoyment of the lake, with its histor- 
 ical associations, very much. Just after leaving the 
 pier at Lucerne, a very hard rain storm set in, which 
 continued almost the entire afternoon, but, neverthe- 
 less, we went on to Kiissnacht, and there hired a 
 hack to take four of us up through the Hohlegasse, or 
 "narrow way," where Tell concealed hiuiself while 
 
278 A KNIGHT TEMPLAK ABEOAD. 
 
 lying in wait for the tyrant's approach, and finally we 
 reach the little chapel, which covers the very spot where 
 Gessler fell at the hands of the gallant Tell. 
 
 The road first winds around the base of the Rigi, and 
 to the right, not far from Kiissnacht, on a wooded hill, 
 are still to be seen the scanty remains of Gessler' s Cas- 
 tle, which is said to have been destroyed in 1308. The 
 " narrow way " is shaded by lofty beeches, and at the 
 end of it is Tell's Chapel, which was first built in 1584 
 (afterwards rebuilt in 1834), to mark the spot where 
 Tell shot Gessler, and this must not be confounded 
 with the spot on the upper end of the Lake of Lucerne, 
 also called Tell's Chapel, which marks the spot where he 
 jumped ashore from Gessler's boat during the storm, 
 in which he was being taken a prisoner to Kiissnacht. 
 Over the door is a painting of the event, with an in- 
 scription , and on the walls inside are paintings represent- 
 ing; various other famous events in the life of Tell, nota- 
 bly one representing Gessler's cap on a pole at Altorf , 
 before which the Swiss were ordered to prostrate 
 themselves on pain of death, and another representing 
 Tell shooting the apple from his son Albert's head, 
 because he would not bow the knee before the cap of 
 Gessler. 
 
 A book is kept here in which you can register your 
 name ; and a man sells photographs and various souve- 
 nirs of the place. On the way to Kiissnacht, you see on 
 the left hand, the picturesque modern chateau of New 
 Hapsburg, behind, which rises the ancient tower of 
 the castle of that name, (once occupied by Eudolph, 
 
tell's chapel. 279 
 
 Count of Hapsburg, and who was afterwards Emperor 
 of Germany), which was destroyed by the Lucerners in 
 1352, in their new born freedom, and intense hatred 
 of the strongholds of tyranny. To an American, 
 Switzerland must alwa^^s be a land viewed with deep 
 emotion, and while I was standing in the little chapel, 
 I thought often of my native land, and of her strug- 
 gles for liberty against the tyrannical oppression of the 
 mother country, and compared her with Switzerland, 
 struggling against the tyranny of Austria, and I 
 thought that Tell was perfectly justifiable in lying in 
 wait for Gessler, and in sending home the shaft to the 
 tyrant's bosom, which helped so much to knock off the 
 manacles from Switzerland. 
 
 Gessler's own wicked conscience well told him who 
 had fired the fatal shot. Immediately after the shot 
 was fired which soo» resounded around the world, "Das 
 war TelVs Schoss,'' the tyrant exclaimed, to which 
 Tell, appearing on the rocks above, replies: — 
 
 "Thou knowest the shooter, look not for another, 
 Our homes are free, and innocence secure : 
 Thou wilst inflict no further wrongs upon us." 
 
 And with Tell to lead them on, not long did it take 
 the hardy Swiss to carve with their swords, their way 
 to freedom. I regretted very much that time prevented 
 ray taking an excursion to Fluelen, at the upper end of 
 the lake, so that I might have gone to Altorf, a few 
 miles from there, and seen the place where Tell made 
 his famous shot at the apple on Albert's head ; but we 
 
280 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 had not the time to make both excursions. Briinnen, 
 on the lake, is noted as the place where the league of 
 the Swiss Cantons was entered into, and not far from 
 there is to be seen the large rock bearing the inscrip- 
 tion, signifying that it is to " Frederick Schiller, the 
 Bard of Tell." A singular fact in connection with this 
 remarkable drama is that Schiller, its famous author, 
 himself, never saw the scene of this unequaled pro- 
 duction, but the idea was suggested to him by his 
 friend Goethe, who, after a tour through the Forest 
 Cantons in 1797, had intended to make it the ground- 
 work of an epic poem himself. 
 
 " One valuable idea which he seems to have com- 
 municated to him is this: His own conception of the 
 character of Tell. With the exception of Schiller, 
 all dramatists, who have attempted the theme, paint 
 him too much as a sentimental reformer. But 
 Goethe saw that the true dramatic capability of 
 the character lay in his simplicity, both of feel 
 ing and expression ! In representing him, as he 
 was, a rude dweller among the mountains, leading 
 a life of labor, and never thinking of political free- 
 dom or slavery, until oppression penetrated to his 
 own fireside, and even then, only anxious at first to 
 escape the evil as best he might, till step by step, he is 
 led on to the death of Gessler, as the only means of 
 preserving his own existence and that. of his family." 
 Not far from the inscription to Schiller is the 
 famous meadow of Riitli, where the founders of Swiss 
 
A SOLEMN COMPACT. 281 
 
 liberty met, and bound themselves by solemn oath, to 
 free their country from the ruthless invader. 
 
 "I see the rock and little cross upon it. 
 Here is our place of meeting! This is Eiitli." 
 
 On the night of November 17, 1307, Werner Stauf- 
 facher, of Schwytz, Walter Fiirst, of Uri, whose 
 daughter Tell had married, and Arnold Anderhalden, 
 (commonly called Melchtal, of Unterwalden), repaired 
 to the meadow of Riitli, each bringing with him ten de- 
 termined men of his own canton. Men to whom the 
 freedom of their fatherland was everything, and their 
 own lives in comparison with it nothing. Here with 
 beating hearts, and united by the perils of the time, in 
 strictest league, these thirty-three brave men gave 
 each their brotherly hands and swore a solemn oath, 
 engaging " to live and die for the rights of an inno- 
 cent and oppressed people ! to undertake and execute 
 everything in concert; to defend their own franchises, 
 without trespassing on the rights of others ; to respect 
 the property, and not to shed — except in self-de- 
 fense — the blood even of their most cruel oppressors ; 
 but to put down all tyranny and unjust power, and to 
 preserve unimpaired to posterity the liberties which 
 they had themselves received from their forefathers." 
 
 Tell, however, took no part in these deliberations, 
 though earnestly asked to do so by Stauffacher, being, 
 as he said himself, a '•' man of deeds, and not of 
 words ; ' ' but history nevertheless has assigned him 
 
282 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 a fitting place in the list of immortal heroes, who 
 have fought for human liberty in all ages : — 
 
 "Tell draws the lost lamb from the precipice! 
 And think'st thou he'd abandon his dear friends? 
 Yet still — whate'er ye do — omit me from 
 Your councils; I'm no man of words, I deal not 
 In long deliberation and debate — 
 But when you have resolved on your straight course 
 And stand prepa7'ed for action — call on Tell — 
 And Tell will not be wanting in his duty." 
 
 Tell was born at Biirglen, not far from Altorf , and 
 a chapel erected in 1522, marks the spot where his 
 house previously stood. 
 
 In the year 1388 — only thirty-four years after Tell's 
 death — a chapel was erected by the Landsgemeinde 
 of Uri, on the spot where he leaped on shore — 
 
 « I bade the rowers ply their arms with vigor 
 Until they came before the Kocky Plat — 
 ' There,' said I, * all the roughest will be past ' — 
 And now, by briskly rowing, we had reached it ; 
 When suddenly — first having seized my crossbow 
 And breathing all the while a prayer to Heaven, 
 I sprang myself upon the Plat above. 
 High — springing with a bound, and sending back 
 The staggered boat into the whirl of waters — 
 There — with God's will — may she drift on at leisure. 
 Thus I am here, escaped the storm's dread power. 
 And, dreader still, the power of evil men." 
 
 The chapel has been, from time to time, kept up 
 and renewed ever since, and once a year mass is said 
 and a sermon preached in it, at which the inhabitants 
 of the Forest Cantons attend, repairing thither in 
 
WAS TELL ONLY A MYTH? 283 
 
 boats, and forming a grand procession on the lake. 
 Speaking of the scene here and at Eiitli, Sir James 
 Mcintosh says : ' ' The combination of what is grandest 
 in Nature, with whatever is pure and sublime in human 
 conduct, affected me more thoroughly than in any place 
 which I had ever seen. Perhaps, neither Grreece nor 
 Eome would have had such power over me. They are 
 dead. The present inhabitants are a race who regard, 
 with little or no feeling, the memorials of former 
 ages. This is, perhaps, the only place on our globe 
 where deeds of pure virtue, ancient enough to be 
 venerable, are consecrated by the religion of the peo- 
 ple and continue to command interest and reverence. 
 
 No local superstition, so beautiful and so moral, any 
 where exists. The inhabitants of Thermopylae, or 
 Marathon, know no more of those famous spots, than 
 that they are so many square feet of earth,. England is 
 too extensive to make Eunnymede an object of natural 
 affection. In countries of industry and wealth the 
 stream of events sweeps away these old remembrances. 
 The solitude of the Alps is a sanctuary destined for the 
 monuments of ancient virtue. Eiitli, and Tell's 
 Chapel, are as much reverenced by the Alpine peasants 
 as is Mecca by a devout Mussulman." 
 
 A great many people, however, have been inclined to 
 look upon the story of Tell as a myth, and yet I am so 
 loth to give up my belief in Switzerland's famous hero, 
 and more especially, after having visited some of the 
 very spots made almost sacred to a lover of human 
 liberty by his historic footsteps, that at the risk of be- 
 
284 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 coming tedious I propose to produce a few internal evi- 
 dences that Tell " lived and moved, and had his being," 
 from an authority which is, to me, at least, sufficiently 
 convincing, but which it is hardly necessary to name at 
 this time. " The story of Tell, however, must finally 
 rest for credence or reflection on the strenjjth or weak- 
 ness of its own evidences which may be thus briefly 
 summed up ; 1. The uninterrupted tradition and belief of 
 the Swiss, from father to son, for more than five hundred 
 years. 2. The many old German songs and romances 
 in which he is celebrated, and which (as Coxe has very 
 justly observed), are so remarkable for their ancient 
 dialect and simplicity, as to leave little doubt, either of 
 their own authenticity, or of the truth of the deeds 
 which they commemorate. 3. The chronicles and nar- 
 ratives of Klingenberg, Egloff, Etterlin, Melchior, 
 Kuss, Tschudi, Simer, and other historians, from the 
 fourteenth century down to the present day. 4. The 
 erection of three chapels (one of them — that at the 
 Tell's Plat — in 1388, only thirty-four years after 
 Tell's death, and when there were present one hundred 
 and fourteen persons in the Landsgemeinde of Uri, who 
 had personally Tcnown him) — and the religious solem- 
 nities with which, for the last four hundred and fifty 
 yearSi his countrymen have never failed annually to 
 commemorate his deeds, and to thank God for the 
 prowess and triumph of his arm." 
 
 Upon our return to Lucerne, I visited a panorama of 
 the famous Rigi-Kulmand the surrounding mountains, 
 which gave me a very good idea of them, especially as 
 
RIGI-KULM. 285 
 
 I had not time to ascend the Eigi-Kulm, which is about 
 6,000 feet high, and see the view which is said to be one 
 of the most glorious in all Europe. Many tourists go up 
 by the inclined plane to see the sun set, and then stay 
 all night for the sun rise in the morning, which is said to 
 well repay the traveler, if the weather should be favor- 
 able, which is not, however, always the case among the 
 Alps, by a good deal. Rigi, however, is said to enjoy 
 more fair weather than Mt. Pilatus. Of Mt. Pilatus 
 they have a rhyme, which runs as follows: — 
 
 "If Pilatus wears his cap, serene will be the day; 
 If his collar he puts on, you may venture on the way; 
 But if his sword he wields, at home you'd better stay.' 
 
 Besides what has been already mentioned, about all 
 that is now left to be seen of interest in Lucerne are two 
 of the bridges across the river Keuss, which issues from 
 the lake with great swiftness, with its clear emerald-green 
 water. Two bridges which cross it are of wood, quite 
 old, and very curious to the pedestrian who strolls 
 leisurely through them, because of what he sees over- 
 head. The one next to the fine iron bridge is called the 
 Kapell-Briicke, and runs across the river in a kind of a 
 zig-zag, and is covered with a wooden roof, which is 
 painted with 154 scenes from the lives of St. Leodegar 
 and St. Mauritius, the patron saints of Lucerne, and 
 with scenes from Swiss history, mostly battles and 
 sieges. Near the bridge, and in the middle of the river, 
 and from which there is a door leading to the old tower 
 is the Wasser Thurm, or water tower, which is quite 
 
286 . A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 venerable, having, no doubt, been one of the ancient 
 defenses of the city, where are kept the archives 
 of the city, and which was once used as a light- 
 house, or lucerna in the days of the Romans, and 
 whence the city probably derives its name. A fourth 
 bridge, called the Miihlen-Briicke, somewhat lower 
 down, and much shorter than the one above described, 
 has a series of quaint and striking pictures called the 
 " Dance of Death," the principal figures being skele- 
 tons, embracing in their horrible grasp, creatures of 
 flesh and blood, etc. On the hills back of Lucerne, a 
 fine view of the old city walls, of the lake and city be- 
 low, and the beautiful Alpine peaks in the distance, is 
 to be obtained, which will well repay the pedestrian 
 who will take the pains to climb the steep ascent. 
 
 The next morning, which was Wednesday, August 8th, 
 we took the train for Strasbourg, and on the way, about 
 thirteen miles from Lucerne, we approach the lake of 
 Sempach, which is a very pretty sheet of water, about 
 five miles long, and a mile and a half wide, and which 
 abounds in fish. The railway skirts the lake for the 
 greater part of the distance, and we see the famous 
 field of Sempach, where Arnold Winkelried immortal- 
 ized himself. It was here that Duke Leopold, of Aus- 
 tria, was signally defeated on the 9th of July, 1386, 
 by the Swiss Confederates, being himself slain with 
 263 of his bravest knights, and more than 2,000 com- 
 mon soldiers, while the Swiss loss was only about 200; 
 greatest of all being the noble martyr, Arnold Winkel- 
 ried. The Swiss had made several charges upon the 
 
SWISS RAILROADS 287 
 
 serried lances of the Austrian phalanx, without being 
 able to make any impression on them, when Arnold 
 Wlnkelried spoke up, and said that if Switzerland 
 would care for his wife and children, he would 
 throwhimself on the lances of the Austrians, receiving 
 as many of their lances as he possibly could in his 
 body, and his comrades should then take advantage of 
 this temporary break in the Austrian phalanx, and 
 charge and break the Austrian front. He gave up his 
 life, a martyr to his country, and by his noble act 
 of self-sacrifice, the Swiss won a glorious victory, and 
 it is no wonder that Winkelried ranks with Tell in the 
 hearts of the Swiss. 
 
 The Swiss railway carriages are built on the Ameri- 
 can plan, and were the first we had seen in Europe, 
 which were anything like what we had been accustomed 
 to. The carriages do not hold so many persons as 
 ours do, but as our party numbered then about twenty- 
 two, we all managed, I believe, to be seated in one 
 carriage, which made us all feel more sociable than 
 before, when we were broken up into little parties of 
 six or eight. They have something novel in Europe 
 in the way of steel railway ties, instead of wood, which 
 are in use in that country altogether. We saw great 
 piles of them at many of the stations in various parts 
 of the countries through which we passed, and we 
 were told that, though they cost more than wooden 
 ties at the outset, yet they are much lighter to 
 handle, and wore so much longer and better, that they 
 were much cheaper in the end. 
 
288 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 There is not much to be seen of interest between 
 Lucerne and Basle, at which point we arrived about 
 11 a. m., and stopped there for luncheon, and 
 to see the sights of the city, and we remained there 
 until about 4 p. m., when we took our seats in the 
 train for the famous old Cathedral, City of Stras- 
 bourg, which is one of the most strongly fortified 
 cities in Europe, the Germans, I suppose, never in- 
 tending the French to reclaim it as their own, they 
 having once held it, from the days of Louis XIV., for 
 about 200 years. The Swiss Railway Terminus, at 
 Bael, which unites the Alsace Railway with the Swiss 
 Central Railway, is a magnificent structure, perhaps 
 one of the very finest buildings of the kind to be seen 
 in Europe. Bale, or Basle, is famous in connection 
 with the Reformation, for here the learned Erasmus is 
 is said to have " laid the egg that Luther hatched," 
 and here, in the Cathedral, on the banks of the famous 
 Rhine, which we here behold for the first time, he lies 
 buried, and his many virtues are commemorated by a 
 lengthy Latin inscription. The swiftly -flowing Rhine 
 here divides the city into two parts, the larger portion 
 being on the left bank, and three bridges connect the 
 two portions. One of these bridges is more than 
 1,000 feet long, and has a peculiarity which I once 
 noticed, though not to such a great extent, in the 
 bridge which connects Nashville, Tennessee, with Edge- 
 field, and that is that one end of ttis bridge over the 
 Rhine, at Bale, is sixty feet higher than the other. 
 
 Basle is on the frontier of Switzerland, and is 
 
TOMB OF EKASJrUS. 289 
 
 situated in a large plain between the mountain ranges 
 of the Jura, the Black Forest and the Vosges, and 
 borders on Germany and Alsace. Out of its 62,000 
 inhabitants, 42,000 are Protestants, which shows that 
 the influence of the great and learned Erasmus is 
 still felt among her people. The finest streets, parks, 
 gardens, etc., are those which lead to and from 
 the railway stations. There is one very handsome 
 monument which we visited, which was not far from 
 our hotel. The monument was erected in 1872, to 
 the memory of 1,300 Swiss and Confederates, who fell 
 at the battle of St. Jacob, against the French, August 
 26th, 1444. The monument is surmounted by a 
 female figure of heroic size, impersonating Helvetia, 
 and has a figure at each cornel- of the base, all warriors, 
 in battle array. The inscription is in German to this 
 effect ; — 
 
 " Our souls to God, our bodies to the enemy. Here died on the 
 26th August, 1444, fighting against Austria and France, 1,300 Swiss 
 and Confederates, unconquered, but tried by victory." 
 
 But by far the most interesting place in Basle is the 
 ancient Minster, built from 1010-1019. The interior 
 has been lately restored, and provided with a new 
 organ, and offers the admirer of art and antiquity, a 
 glorious harvest of architectural beauties and monu- 
 ments, and which contains what is of greater interest 
 by far than all the rest, the Tomb of the Great 
 Erasmus, of Rotterdam, and of the three Reformers of 
 Basle, Meier, QEcolompadius and Grynseus, and the 
 19 
 
290 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Tomb of the Empress Anna of Austria, consort of 
 Kudolph, of Hapsburg. But the great Erasmus is, of 
 course, the chief glory of Basle, for here it was that 
 he raged bitter war with the Church of Kome, and 
 here may yet be seen his famous old arm-chair in the 
 vestry of the Cathedral. During my stay in Europe, I 
 saw the chairs of Knox, Calvin, and Erasmus, and 
 passed through the city of Worms, where Luther stood 
 his trial, and where he said he would go "if every tile 
 on the house tops were a devil," and hence I saw 
 many things of interest connected with the wonderful 
 Reformation ; and perhaps a few remarks at this point 
 in regard to Erasmus and Luther, may not be entirely 
 out of place. 
 
 The German poet, Goethe, says of Luther, and, 
 as I think, very unjustly, and very untruely as well, 
 " that he threw back the intellectual progress of 
 mankind for centuries, by calling in the passions 
 of the multitude to decide on subjects which ought to 
 have been left to the learned;" and in saying this, the 
 narrator says "that Goethe especially ' alluded to 
 Erasmus, and men like him," of whom there were, 
 indeed, few at that time in Europe. If Erasmus, with 
 all his learning, had had the moral courage of Luther, 
 the Reformation might and would have set in much 
 sooner. Erasmus once wrote: *' As to me, I have no 
 inclination to risk my life for truth. We have not all 
 strength for martyrdom ; and if trouble come, I shall 
 imitate St. Peter. Popes and Emperors must settle 
 
LUTHER AND ERASMUS. 291 
 
 the creeds. If they settle them well, so much the bet- 
 ter ; if ill, I shall keep on the safe side." 
 
 Luther, however, felt that thousands thought as he 
 himself thought, that it was time for him to speak 
 out, and, being a stranger to fear, speak out he did, 
 while Erasmus, who could write Latin as polished as 
 Cicero's, temporized and held back. Luther had only 
 said what Erasmus fully believed, but had not the 
 courage to avow, and Luther looked to Erasmus to take 
 his stand by his side, and had he only done so, then 
 the Reformation would have advanced with gigantic 
 strides. ** The prodigious reputation of Erasmus 
 would have given the reformers influence with the 
 upper and educated classes, which, by Luther's gigantic 
 efforts, they had already won with the masses, and the 
 Pope would have been left without an ally to the north 
 of the Alps." But Erasmus, instead of throwing him- 
 self into the breach like a man, preached moderation, 
 both to Luther and the multitude. He settled at last 
 at Basle, where the storm of the Reformation had not 
 yet penetrated, and gave himself up to his books, but 
 he did not find much rest or peace of mind here. The 
 Catholics declared that he was as much to blame for 
 the Reformation as Luther was, and the Protestants 
 murmured against him, and not without reason, and 
 said that if he had like, Luther, possessed the courage 
 of his convictions, that the whole Catholic world must 
 have accepted the Reformation, and no doubt they were 
 right, as fully appears in the light of subsequent 
 events. 
 
292 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABI^OAD. 
 
 Erasmus was a great wit, and well was he acquainted 
 with the wickedness practiced in the monasteries, and 
 when Luther married an escaped nun, the Catholics 
 exclaimed, that Antichrist would be born of such an 
 incestuous connection. *' Nay," said Erasmus, " if 
 monk and nun produce Antichrist, there must have 
 been legions of Antichrists these many years." And 
 yet a high authority says that without Erasmus, Luther 
 would have been impossible. Still, Luther himself 
 said of him that *' he took Erasmus to be the worst en- 
 emy that Christ had had for years." 
 
 From Basle, we proceeded to Strasbourg, the capital 
 of Alsace, where we spent the night at a hotel not far 
 from the railway station — the Hotel de I'Europe, I 
 believe — and early the next morning we started to see 
 the famous Cathedral, with its wonderful clock, which, 
 together with the double line of the city's fortifica- 
 tions, are about all that is to be seen of interest there. 
 I might add, that Basle is the last town in Switzerland 
 standing on the Rhine at the head of navigation. It 
 was once as strict in its sumptuary laws as Geneva 
 was, under the iron rule of John Calvin. Every per- 
 son on the Sabbath, who went to church, was compelled 
 to dress in black ; no carriages could enter the town 
 after ten o'clock at night, and footmen were entirely 
 forbidden. A set of officers, called Uuzichterherren, 
 decided the number of dishes and the wines to be used 
 at a dinner party, and also the cut and quality of all 
 the clothes worn. 
 
 Until about the beginning of the present century, 
 
STRASBOURG. 293 
 
 the time-pieces of the town were kept about an 
 hour in advance of all others in Europe. The legend 
 which accounts for this is, that- the city was once 
 delivered from a band of conspirators by the city 
 clock striking one, instead of twelve and thus dis- 
 concerting the conspirators, and causing them to give 
 up their plot. There used to be a curious head at- 
 tached to the clock, standing on the bridge, which was 
 called the " Lallen-Koiiig," and the movement of the 
 pendulum caused the eyes to protrude, and the tongue 
 to loll out, and it was said to be making faces at Little 
 Basle, on the opposite side of the Rhine. This curious 
 head may now be seen among the * ' Mediaeval Collec- 
 tion," in a building near the Cathedral. Here, at 
 Basle, I saw a stork, the first I had seen in Europe, 
 where they are held in great reverence, roosting high 
 up on an old church, which was no longer used for the 
 worship of God, but was actually used for an old 
 second-hand furniture store. 
 
 About 4 p. m., on Wednesday, August 8th, we took 
 the train foj the celebrated fortified city of Strasbourg, 
 the capital of the province of Alsace, with its famed 
 Cathedral and clock, and which, after the Franco-Prus- 
 sian war of 1870-71, the French gave up with so much 
 reluctance to the German Empire, after having held it 
 with uncontrolled sway for 200 years, that is to say 
 since the days of Louis XIV. ; and with it they also 
 had to give up the whole of the provinces of Alsace 
 and Lorraine, two of the garden spots of France, and 
 with these they had to pay, besides, an immense war 
 
294 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 indemnity. "We arrived there at about 9 p. m., and as 
 it was too late to do anything that night, we must, per- 
 force, wait until the next day to see the wondrous old 
 Cathedral, which had, only tenor twelve years before, 
 withstood the terrible fire of the German artillery, 
 which several times set the building on fire ; but it was 
 soon put out luckily, and the wonderful astronomical 
 clock was not even touched, although the various parts 
 of the Cathedral still show the ravages of the ruin- 
 ous firing on what was once a part of their own be- 
 loved fatherland. 
 
 After having seen two or three of the great cathe- 
 drals of Europe, you have seen enough to form a 
 tolerable idea of them all, with the exception of Stras- 
 bourg and Cologne, which are the most notable ecclesias- 
 tical structures in Europe, and, therefore, I shall devote 
 more attention to these two than any others, for that 
 reason ; and to Master Masons, the Cathedral of Stras- 
 bourg should be especially interesting, for reasons which 
 I shall give a little further along. This edifice, which 
 stands there in all its magnificence, and proudly rears its 
 head heavenwards, a grand, though silent, testimonial 
 to the living God, dates back to the days of old King 
 Clovis, who founded it originally in the year 510, and 
 who preceded the great Charlemagne, the famous Em- 
 peror of the West ( whom Bonaparte most aspired to 
 imitate), only a few centuries. 
 
 Above the portals, the carvings are truly mag- 
 nificent ; among them being equestrian statues of 
 Clovis, Dagobert, and others all done in the high- 
 
STRASBOURG CATHEDRAL. 295 
 
 est style of art known to those olden days, and 
 in comparison with which most of our modern sculpt- 
 ures seem to be but feeble relics of the " lost arts," 
 indeed. The tall needle-like shrine was, for many 
 years, the tallest in Christendom, if not in the 
 entire world, presumptively; but since the magnifi- 
 cent Cathedral of Cologne has reached its completion, 
 after so many years of waiting and fruition, and has 
 attained the dizzy height of 504 feet, or 100 feet 
 higher than St. Paul's in London, truly must Stras- 
 bourg now " pale her ineffectual fires." The front 
 of the wondrous and awe-inspiring structure, with 
 its two great square towers, reminds one somewhat 
 of York Minster, or Westminster Abbey, though 
 Strasbourg is far more imposing (as I believe I 
 have before remarked, that the first view of West- 
 minster Abbey is disappointing), but the huge rose- 
 wood door between the towers, and the Gothic spire 
 with all the beautiful carvings and tracery which cover 
 the vast front in the greatest profusion *' from tur- 
 ret to foundation stone," all present a sight which, 
 once seen can never be forgotten, but to which only 
 the brush of a Raphael, or the pen of a Milton, could 
 do justice, and it is not, perchance, too much to say, 
 that the task would then be, perhaps, inadequately 
 accomplished. 
 
 ' You must bear in mind, that a small fee is always 
 charged for entering the great European cathedrals, 
 and after this is done, there is very little more to be ex- 
 pended unless you choose to do so yourself. We went 
 
296 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 up more than 300 steps, being assisted somewhat by a 
 rope which runs generally up the steep and narrow 
 stairways of these cathedrals, which are often worn 
 down several inches by the ceaseless tread of count- 
 less thousands ; and often you will notice that the 
 stones have been replaced with new ones, showing what 
 a tide of humanity must have gone up and down those 
 steps, and at last when completely exhausted, and we 
 have about come to the conclusion to retrace our steps, 
 and never try such a " fool " project again, we find our- 
 selves on a platform 230 feet above the ground. Here 
 are found several rooms, in which lives the custodian 
 of the tower, who sells you photographs, stereoscopic 
 views, etc., and also shows you some distinguished 
 autographs which, carved in the dingy old walls, if 
 you had been left to yourself, you w^ould not have 
 been apt to discover. 
 
 Among others, he showed me the names of two shin- 
 ing lights who are dear to every German heart, and 
 whose fame has reached the uttermost ends of the 
 earth — Goethe and Schiller. There were hundreds of 
 others carved there, but these, of course, were the most 
 famous of them all, and the rest were as mere dross in 
 my sight, and I did not try to burden my memory or 
 my note-book with them — as for the two great geniuses 
 spoken of above I needed no written tablet to recollect 
 them. Of course, you obtain a grand panoramic view 
 from this " coign of vantage," of the beautiful coun- 
 try for miles around ; of the German Rhine, which is 
 two miles from Strasbourg, and which flows 600 miles 
 
VIEW FROM THE SPIRE. 297 
 
 through the heart of Europe ; and of the magnificent 
 fortifications of Strasbourg, which encircle the city 
 with a double row of intrenchments, and which makes 
 it the strongest city in Europe, not much inferior to 
 Ehrenbreitstein or Gibraltar in strategic importance — 
 besides many other novel and interesting sights. 
 
 From this point on up, which is really dangerous, 
 and apt to produce dizziness, because the masonry is 
 of open work, with apertures nearly large enough for 
 the body to pass through, the ascent is very trying ; 
 but as I had already ascended York Minster, St. Paul, 
 and the Berne Cathedral, I did not intend to be balked 
 by this, and I went on and on until my legs ached, my 
 head swam around, and everything below me looked 
 like pigmies ; but finally I reached the utmost height 
 allowed to any climber, and well did I feel repaid for . 
 the toilsome ascent that I had made, ^or I was now 
 higher by several feet than I had ever been in my life, 
 although you are not allowed to go up to the highest 
 part of the spire by the authorities. From this alti- 
 tude, I could see the silvery Rhine wending its wind- 
 ing way for many miles, the famous Black Forest of 
 Germany, the province of Baden, and the range of the 
 Jura Mountains in the distance, and I also noticed a 
 company of German cavalry going through their evo- 
 lutions in their barracks-yard below me, and from my 
 stupendous height, they seemed not so very much 
 larger than the toy soldiers of my boyhood. 
 
 It is said by those who are conversant with architect- 
 ure, of whom , I regret to say, I am not, ' ' that this grand 
 
298 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 old structure seems to bring together all the orders of 
 architecture of the Middle Ages, from the Byzantine to 
 the Gothic." As in the case of most Protestant 
 Cathedrals, the carvings for the most part represent 
 the most prominent scenes in the life of the Savior 
 of mankind, and the apostles, interspersed with 
 statues of saints and warriors. The interior with its 
 " dim religious light," is at once grand and impres- 
 sive, the Gothic roof being supported by fourteen 
 enormous pillars, which are nearly 100 feet in height, 
 and the vast distance overhead reminds me more of 
 York Minster, I believe, than any other cathedral which 
 I have visited, and the beautiful stained glass windows, 
 all representing some Scriptural subject, make the 
 scene deeply impressive and beautiful. The pulpit, 
 built in the year, 1486, is covered with little statues, 
 beautifully carved, and is the finest thing of the kind 
 I saw in Europe, except that magnificent one in the 
 cathedral at Antwerp, which I shall speak of when we 
 arrive at that point in the course of our travels. 
 
 To give you some idea of these wondrous structures of 
 the Middle Ages, and the gigantic labor which must have 
 been required to build them, and the enormous num- 
 ber of men required to do the work, and the amount 
 of material required in their construction, I will state 
 that this noble structure, which is one of the proudest 
 monuments of the Christian religion to be found in 
 the civilized world, is 525 feet long, and 195 feet wide, 
 and its beautiful spire, which shows many marks of 
 the cruel shells of the Germans during the last siege. 
 
THE FAMOUS CLOCK. 299 
 
 rears its beautiful, needle-like, proportions in the air to 
 the height of 468 feet ; but I shall tell you of one 
 presently that surpasses that almost forty feet in 
 height 
 
 In a building near the cathedral are to be seen a 
 great many curious relics, portions of the statuary 
 which was knocked from the cathedral during the 
 siege by the shot and shells of the Germans, which 
 have been replaced by new statuary, etc., by the cun- 
 ning master-masons of the cathedral, who form a guild 
 peculiar to themselves, and of whom I shall speak pres- 
 ently. All over the cathedral upon the outside, you can 
 see marks of shot and shell, and see where new stone 
 work has taken the place of that which was destroyed 
 by the- rain of shot and shell poured upon the devoted 
 city, by those to whose ancestors the place had once 
 been doubly dear. The famous astronomical clock 
 itself, for a wonder, received no injury, it being located 
 on the ground floor of the cathedral, and on the side 
 most remote from the location of the principal Ger- 
 man batteries. 
 
 I omitted to state that in the same building, where 
 the relics of the siege are to be seen, are also to be 
 found some portions of the clock which was in the Cathe- 
 dral before the present famous one was made, and they 
 have a tradition in Strasbourg, that for fear that some 
 rival city might in some way obtain the services of the 
 two men who made the first Strasbourg clock also to 
 make one for them, they put the poor men's eyes out, 
 and the consequence was, that when soon after this cruel 
 
300 A KNIGHT TEMPLAE ABROAD. 
 
 deed, for some reason or other, the clock stopped, no 
 one was found able to fix it for the space of 70 years. 
 
 I was told in Strasbourg, by the custodian of the tower, 
 that the reason why the Cathedral was assailed so se- 
 verely was, that the French army used the steeple of 
 the Cathedral as an outlook upon the location and 
 movements of the German army, or it would not prob- 
 ably have been so savagely assaulted by the German 
 artillery. 
 
 I did not get to see the famous clock perform at 
 12 m., which is the best time to see all its won- 
 drous mechanism, as our party had to leave for 
 Heidelberg at 1 p. m.,but I had seen a marvelous /ac- 
 simile of this clock in Maysville, Ky., only a few 
 years before, and so had a pretty good idea of its per- 
 formances. It is about twenty-five or thirty feet high, 
 and fifteen or twenty at the base, and tells the time of 
 day, the changes of the seasons, the movements of the 
 planets, the eclipses of the sun and moon, besides 
 having various processions of figures etc. *'It is a 
 time-keeper, astronomer, almanac, mathematician, and 
 musician," all in one. The most wonderful feature of 
 this clock is, that it is calculated to regulate itself and 
 adapt itself to the revolutions of the seasons, for an al- 
 most unlimited number of years. 
 
 The Master Masons of this Cathedral, down to this 
 day, form a very exclusive society, which originated in 
 the days of the great master-mason and architect of 
 this wondrous building, Erwin of Steinbach, who re- 
 built the nave in 1275, and had general charge of its 
 
FREEMASONRY AND RELIGION. 301 
 
 construction until his death in 1318, when, it is said, 
 his daughter, Sabina, who had been thoroughly taught 
 in architecture by her illustrious father, succeeded him 
 in the construction of the building. The Masons of 
 this Cathedral held themselves aloof from other operative 
 Masons, and had a code of signs known only to them- 
 selves. They held their lodge meeting in the crypts 
 of this Cathedral, as the Masons also did in York 
 Minster, and from these meetings emanated several 
 Masonic Lodges in Germany, and from this nucleus, 
 Freemasonry, which is strong in Germany, as in fact 
 it is in all enlightened nations, no doubt took its start ; 
 and a general meeting of the Masters of the various 
 lodges was held at Eatisbon in 1459, at which they 
 were all united under one jurisdiction, and the Grand 
 Masters then chosen, were the architects of the Cathe- 
 dral at Strasbourg, and the Grand Lodge was estab- 
 lished at that city. 
 
 Who, then, shall say that Eeligion and Freemasonry 
 do not go hand in hand, when Freemasonry in England 
 owes its rise to the building of York Minster, and 
 Freemasonry in Germany w^as coeval with the building 
 of the Cathedral of Strasbourg? The Emperor Maxi- 
 milian I. confirmed these Masonic arrangements October 
 3rd, 1498, and Strasbourg remained the headquarters 
 of the Grand Lodge of Germany, until the early part 
 of the eighteenth century, when it was removed to 
 Mayence, on the Rhine. 
 
 While gazing upon this wonderful structure, and its 
 still more wonderful clock, I wondered why it was that 
 
302 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD, 
 
 the name of the man by whose wondrous genius that 
 marvel of ingenuity and skill which is almost wortliy 
 to be classed as the eighth wonder of the world, has 
 never been told, that humanity might pay at least a 
 passing tribute to his memory and his surpassing inge- 
 nuity, but, like many another genius of the world, he 
 has unfortunately died " unwept, unhonored, and un- 
 sung." Passing out from the great Cathedral, on the 
 right hand side of the structure, you are shown a very 
 curious and venerable-looking building, which is said 
 to be the oldest building in the city of Strasbourg, 
 next to the venerable Cathedral itself, and tradition 
 says, that the immortal Groethe lived there 100 years 
 ago, when a student at the university in Strasbourg, in 
 company with Herder and Stilling, themselves after- 
 wards reaching no mean distinction in their native land. 
 This house was said to be something like 300 years 
 old, and really it looked it, and reminded me, by its 
 aged appearance and look, of the little church, not 
 more than twenty feet square, which I saw at Kiiss- 
 nacht, Switzerland, and which bore over the door a 
 '^^ skull and cross-bones^" and the year carved on it was 
 1307, only 577 years ago. 
 
 Strasbourg was founded by the Eomans under the 
 name Argentoratun^ and as early as the Middle Ages, 
 became one of the most prosperous and powerful of 
 the free cities of the German Empire. This city has, 
 for centuries, been regarded as one of the most im- 
 portant strategic points in Europe, and its stupendous 
 fortifications which consist of a double row of circum- 
 
ITS FORTIFICATIONS. 303 
 
 vallation, with no less than fourteen strong outworks, 
 are the marvel of the beholder. I rode around a por- 
 tion of them in a carriage, and was struck with amaze- 
 ment at their immense strength and massiveness, and 
 then I understood, for the first time, why the monument 
 in the Place de la Concorde, in Paris, which repre- 
 sented Strasbourg, was so heavily draped in mourning 
 by the French. The Fifteenth German Army Corps 
 constantly occupy the city, and the French, it may 
 be safely assumed, will never again put their foot as 
 victors inside this famous stronghold, for — 
 
 " A hundred men could hold the post, 
 With hardihood, against a hdst." 
 
 The city itself, although under French rule for 
 nearly 200 years, or since the famous Thirty Years' 
 War, remains in many respects pre-eminently German, 
 both in its social customs and manners, and the general 
 structure of its buildings, the people having very little 
 of the French vivacity of life and manners, although 
 I heard it said that most of them would prefer to 
 be once more under the domination of the French. 
 Strasbourg, however, is famous for one invention, which 
 has revolutionized the world, and has done as much 
 for it from an intellectual and literary standpoint, as 
 the Reformation did for it from a religious stand- 
 point, and, in fact, was an invaluable aider and abettor 
 to the latter. 
 
 I allude to the invention of the art of printing, 
 the " art preservative of arts," whose great inventor, 
 
304 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Gutenberg, made his first experiment in this city, 
 about the year 1436. There is a fine statue of 
 Gutenberg to be seen here, which is covered with bass- 
 reliefs, emblematic of the blessings this wonderful in- 
 vention has conferred upon the human race, and 
 comprises statuary representing many eminent men of 
 Germany. The church of St. Thomas contains a very 
 fine monument to the memory of the famous Marshal 
 Saxe, erected by a grateful monarch, King Louis XV., 
 in honor of his valiant marshal's achievements, and 
 which is very elaborate and massive, the work requir- 
 ing twenty years' labor at the hands of the artist who 
 devised and finished it, and which will compare favor- 
 ably, the writer thinks, with anything to he seen in 
 Westminster Abbey. 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 HEIDELBEEG TO THE KHINE. 
 
 / 
 
 EXT we start for the famous old city of Heidel- 
 berg, which is not more than two or three hours' 
 ride from Strasbourg, where is to be seen the grand 
 old Castle, perhaps the most magnificent and grandest 
 ruin in all Europe ; and although the afternoon was 
 rainy and inclement, still, as we had to leave for May- 
 
HEIDELBERG. 305 
 
 ence on the morning train in order to take the boat 
 for our trip down the " vine clad Rhine," we had not 
 much more than registered our names, and had our 
 quarters assigned us in the Hotel de 1' Europe, before 
 we took conveyances, and soon found ourselves climb- 
 ing the steep height of more than 300 feet above the 
 valley of the Neckar, before we reached the grand old 
 ruin which is the pride of Germany, and which has 
 passed through at least a score of sieges and brutal 
 ravages at the hands of her various enemies, and yet 
 stands, a proud, though decayed, monument of what 
 she must have been in her better days. 
 
 We drove to the Castle first, because there is little in 
 Heidelberg, except the Castle and its romantic sur- 
 roundings, to interest the tourist or lover of nature. I 
 had, of course, expected to see a number of the famous 
 Heidelberg students sauntering around, with their 
 jaunty little yellow caps, and their faces all scarred up 
 from their famous and oft-repeated dueling, of which I 
 had heard and read so much, but I had forgotten that it 
 was during the vacation of the great university, when its 
 1,000 students, who come there intent on — beer and 
 meerschaum pipes, I am afraid, mainly — instead of 
 other and better things, were scattered abroad to the 
 four winds of heaven ; and the only students I saw 
 in all Heidelberg, as far as I know, were at the depot 
 when ' we arrived, and their faces were entirely free 
 from hideous and disfiguring scars, but perhaps they 
 had not yet been *' out," and each of them looked to 
 me " as mild a-mannered man as ever scuttled a ship, 
 
 20 
 
306 A KNTIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 or cut a throat." This much for my experience with 
 the far-famed Heidelberg students. 
 
 My first idea of the vast extent of this noble ruin 
 had been obtained, more than ten years before I 
 visited Heidelberg, from a series of steel engravings 
 which were the property of a former citizen of Heidel- 
 berg, who, then, lived in my native place, and when I 
 saw the castle for myself, I soon realized that neither 
 its wonderful extent nor its incomparable beauty had 
 been exaggerated. Few towns can vie with Heidelberg 
 in the beautv of its environs, and its historical interest. 
 The town itself lies just at the opening of the Neckar 
 Valley, which commences at Heilbronn, some thirty-six 
 miles higher up the river. 
 
 By the way, speaking of these students showing no 
 signs of having even engaged in the barbarous practice 
 of dueling, reminds one of what the great pulpit orator, 
 Talmage, said in a recent lecture about the University 
 of Heidelberg. He said of this celebrated institution of 
 learning (where, if the truth were known, I suspect that 
 the majority of the students who go there, ' ' thirsting for 
 knowledge," are really often more thirsty /or beer and 
 gore, and that they don't really do much except smoke, 
 drink beer, and fight duels), that there " was not an 
 institution of learning on earth, founded or supported 
 hy infidels save Heidelberg , where murder is taught as a 
 fine art,'''' and this reminds us of De Quincey's famous 
 essay on " Murder considered as one of the Fine 
 Arts." 
 
 The famous castle, the " Alhambra of Germany," 
 
THE PALATINATE. 307 
 
 is situated on a hill at the foot of the Konigstuhl, or 
 "King's foot-stool," at a height of 613 German feet 
 above the sea, and 313 feet above the valley of the 
 river Neckar, which lies spread out beautifully far be- 
 low it, and it would seem as though the castle, from its 
 natural position, should have been well nigh impregnable 
 against aught but treachery from within. It is built 
 upon granite rocks, and was begun by the Elector Ru- 
 pert I., in 1308, after the destruction of the ancient 
 castle above, and from that time continued, without in- 
 terruption, to be the residence of the Electors Palatine. 
 During the progress of the centuries since, it has been 
 fortified, enlarged, and adorned according to the taste, 
 the requirements, or the purses of its royal occupants, or 
 rather, more correctly speaking, of their tax-oppressed 
 subjects. In 1622, when the castle was taken by the 
 great Tilly, it escaped almost uninjured. 
 
 During the famous Thirty Years' War, however, it 
 was several times besieged, and in consequence suffered 
 very materially, but under the Elector Charles Ludwig, 
 it was completely restored to its former strength and 
 beauty. After the death of Ludwig, in 1685, who was 
 >the last Protestant Elector, the grand monarch, Louis 
 XIV., preferred a wholly unjust and unfounded claim to 
 the Palatinate of Heidelberg, and began the cruel and 
 destructive war which involved not only this castle, but 
 so many others in one common ruin. This cruel king 
 who called himself the " grand monarch," but who was, 
 in reality, one of the wickedest, most sensual and cow- 
 ardly, perhaps, of all the kings of France, and who 
 
308 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 never or, rarely, at all events, risked his precious per- 
 son upon the field of battle, or amid the dangers of the 
 camp or siege, captured the castle in October, 1688, 
 by his general. Count Melac, who wintered there. 
 
 On the approach of the German armies, however, to 
 the relief of Heidelberg, this barbarous general of an 
 equally barbarous king, caused, in the following spring, 
 the whole of the fortifications to be blown up, the 
 palace to be burned down, and part of the town itself 
 to be burned ; and four years later another French army 
 laid waste all that had escaped their rapacious arms on 
 the previous occasion. The palace was subsequently 
 partially repaired, but after the departure of the Elec- 
 tor Charles Philip, who transferred his residence to 
 Mannheim, where was then one of the finest palaces in 
 Germany, the castle of Heidelberg, was no longer the 
 residence of the rulers of the Palatinate. The Elector 
 Charles Theodore intended, however, to reside in the 
 castle, and had already issued the necessary orders for 
 its renovation and restoration, when in 1764, a portion 
 of it near the Otio Heinrichs Bau was struck by light- 
 ning, which set fire to the interior as well as to the adja- 
 cent buildings, which did such immense damage that the 
 work of restoration incontinently ceased, and from that 
 day to this has never been renewed. 
 
 The statuary and sculpture remaining, of any value 
 and importance, were transferred to the Royal Palace, at 
 Mannheim, and the glery of Heidelberg Castle forever 
 departed, save as an interesting relic of the Middle Ages, 
 and of the history of the most important epoch in the 
 
THE CASTLE. 309 
 
 political life of Germany. Before entering the castle, 
 you cross a draw-bridge over a deep moat, now dry, 
 however, which reminds you of all the descriptions of 
 castles which you have ever read in novels, etc., and 
 I was forcibly reminded of the fiery interview between 
 Marmion and Douglass, when Douglass' anger becomes 
 uncontrollable, and he bursts forth : — 
 
 " And dars't thou then 
 To beard the lion in his den, 
 The Douglass in his hall? 
 No ; by St. Bryde of Bothwell, no ! 
 Up, draw-bridge, groom, what, warder, hoi 
 Let the portcullis fall." 
 
 And I thought in the centuries that were past and 
 gone, how many thousand mailed knights and ladies 
 fair had crossed that self-same moat, and then I, at 
 last, realized that I really was in the land of the chiv- 
 alry and romance of the Middle Ages. 
 
 Near the entrance to the court-yard is the castle well, 
 sixty feet deep, and which is noted for its canopy, 
 supported by four pillars ; said to have been taken 
 from Charlemagne's palace at Rome. 
 
 Immediately upon entering the court-yard you see 
 ''directly in front of you the Friedrich^s Ban, or left- 
 hand wing of the castle, which is four stories in height, 
 and covered with the statues of the various electors of 
 Germany and with one of Charlemagne, and is of the 
 Doric, Tuscan, Ionic, and Corinthian orders of architect- 
 ure, thus embracing all the orders of architecture but 
 the Composite, and is, consequently, correspondingly 
 
310 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 beautiful. This, however, is far surpassed by the right 
 wing of the castle, which is known as the Otto Hein- 
 rich's Bau, and is said to have been designed by the 
 great Michael Angelo himself, and, as an example of 
 the Renaissance architecture, is said to be the finest in 
 Germany, as it may well be, considering who designed 
 it ; and while it embraces only the Corinthian and 
 Ionic orders, seems to be far finer and more imposing 
 than the other. The facade of this building, like the 
 other, ]s covered with symbolical and allegorical fig- 
 ures, various gods and goddesses, eminent men of 
 antiquity, etc. 
 
 Of course, besides these are other portions of this 
 stupendous castle, which we have neither the time nor 
 space to describe. Adjoining the Friedrich's Bau is a 
 grand stone parapet, seventy or eighty feet long, and 
 thirty or forty wide, directly overlooking the river, and 
 giving you a lovely view of the Neckar, which runs at 
 your very feet, more than 300 feet below, and which 
 falls into the Rhine, only a few miles from Heidelberg. 
 Of course, the Great Tun in the vaults of the castle 
 must not be overlooked , and we pay a hasty visit to it, 
 and we are gradually prepared for its truly amazing 
 proportions by being shown a pretty good sized hogs- 
 head which, we were told, held 200 barrels of wine, 
 and this made us all the more anxious to see the Great 
 Tun. 
 
 This famous tun is said to be thirty-two feet long 
 and twenty-six feet high, and will contain 236,000 bot- 
 tles of wine, or about 800 hogsheads. Of course you 
 
THE TOWEE. 311 
 
 have to ascend to the top of it by means of steps, and 
 when you get up there it looks large enough for several 
 cotillions to dance upon the platform at the same time 
 very easily. 
 
 One might spend a week in viewing the remnants of 
 the departed glories of this far-famed old castle, but 
 time and tide, and railroad trains, wait for no man, and 
 as night was coming on apace, our visit must soon be 
 brought to a close ; but we did not like to leave it with- 
 out visiting the grand terrace, in order to get a last 
 view of the valley of the Neckar, just below us, and 
 the beautiful plain of the Rhine in the distance. On 
 our way there we pass out of the court-yard, and as we 
 walk slowly along, looking at the stupendous propor- 
 tions of this once regal fortress, we come to the fa- 
 mous blown up tower, which was built by Frederick, the 
 Victorious, in 1455. The tower was originally eighty- 
 two feet in diameter, and the walls are said to be 
 twenty feet in thickness, and the observer who notes 
 the vast section of the wall which lies, all covered with 
 ivy where it fell into the moat 195 years ago, has no 
 reason to doubt this statement, and it gives him an 
 '^ocular demonstration of the immense strength of this 
 fortress prior to the invention of artillery. 
 
 In the year 1689, the French General Melac, when 
 about to evacuate the castle, ordered his sappers and 
 miners to blow up this massive tower with gunpowder. 
 His orders were obeyed, but the shock, instead of blow- 
 ing the whole corner of the fortress to atoms, as was ex- 
 pected, only split the tower (which was, as said above, 
 
312 A KNIGHT TEMPLAK ABROAD. 
 
 twenty feet in thickness) in twain, leaving about half 
 of the mass almost intact, while the other half fell out 
 in one solid piece, and fell down into the moat, where 
 it remains to this day, an object of admiration and 
 astonishment to every beholder. Beyond this is the 
 magnificent terrace, from which, besides the view 
 alluded to above, you obtain some conception of the 
 size of the castle and the immense area it covers. But 
 enough of this ! We must hasten down, .and get a 
 glimpse of the famous university before night falls. 
 
 The present University buildings, which are very 
 mean looking indeed, considering the great fame of the 
 University, which dates back to the year 1386, and after 
 the universities of Prague and Vienna, is the oldest 
 in Germany, being founded in that year by the Elector 
 Eupert I., are situated in the square called Ludwigs- 
 platz, and were erected after the great fire of 1693, 
 when that ^^ most Christian king,^^ Louis XIV., laid 
 waste the Palatinate with fire and sword. The univer- 
 sity started out with one rector and thr6e professors, 
 but they were shortly after reinforced by two more, 
 and the University was modeled after the one at Paris 
 which, at that time, had obtained great fame in Eu- 
 rope. The students of the university lived together 
 in separate colleges, each under the supervision of his 
 particular professor. The first year the students num- 
 bered 500. 
 
 This university soon became the nucleus of learn- 
 ing and science in South Germany, and prospered 
 greatly in the latter half of the sixteenth, and the be- 
 
THE UNIVERSITY. 313 
 
 ginning of the seventeenth century under the three 
 benign Electors Otho Henry, Frederic III., and Fred- 
 erick IV., and under their kindly ministrations the 
 university became the chief reformed seat of learning 
 in Germany. Of course, during the Thirty Years' War, 
 and the consequent barbarous devastation of the Pala- 
 tinate by the French, the university survived with 
 difficulty, its revenues being largely depleted, and the 
 numbers of its students vastly diminished. Its devel- 
 opment at the beginning of the present century, during 
 which it has become the most famous university of 
 Europe, Oxford and Cambridge, perhaps, excepted, is 
 largely owing to Charles Frederick of Baden, who, in 
 1802, added largely to its field of usefulness by the 
 accession of eminent professors, and large and valua- 
 ble scientific collections. 
 
 The library is one of the largest, as well as most rare 
 and valuable in Europe, containing, as it does, 
 300,000 volumes, 70,000 pamphlets, 3,000 M8S., and 
 1,000 diplomas. These figures we obtain from the 
 guide-book, as the hours of admission (from ten to 
 twelve) did not suit our plans, and, if the hours had 
 been all right, the library was not, as it is mainly 
 food for antiquarians and scientists to which I did not 
 belong by a large majority ; so that I did not inspect 
 this wonderful museum of literary curiosities at all — 
 and, besides, one would need to be somewhat of a 
 linguist to decipher almost any one of the countless 
 thousands of MSS., etc., which are to be found stored 
 in that vast literary treasure house. 
 
314 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 The next morning, at six a. m. we were up and at 
 breakfast, in order to take an early train for Mayence 
 on the Ehine, whence we were to set sail down that 
 river so famed in song and story, in order to reach 
 Cologne that night, which was on Friday, August 18th, 
 1883. Between Heidelberg and Mayence there is little 
 of interest to engage the attention of the passing 
 traveler, except the famous old city of Worms, which 
 is, and will forever be, immortal because of Martin 
 Luther and the part it played in the grandest epoch 
 known to humanity, next to the birth of the Savior of 
 mankind — the wondrous Eef ormation of the sixteenth 
 century. 
 
 To me the place was impregnated with the won- 
 derful work of the man Luther, the tomb of whose 
 learned coadjutor and ally, Erasmus, I had so recently 
 seen at Basle, and I could but think that these two 
 wonderful men had more nearly moved the world than 
 ever Archimides could have done, had he even found 
 the fulcrum for his boasted lever. I am strongly 
 tempted here to quote a few sentences from an elo- 
 quent writer on this subject, Headley, the historian. 
 He says of Worms : — 
 
 " It is now half desolate, but I looked upon it with 
 the profoundest emotions. Luther rose before me with 
 that determined brow and strange, awful eye of his, 
 before which the boldest glance went down. I seemed 
 to behold him as he approached the thronged city. 
 Every step tells on the fate of a world, and on the 
 single will of that single man rests the whole 
 
STATUE OF LUTHER. 315 
 
 Eeformation. But he is firm as truth itself, and in 
 the regular beatings of that mighty heart, and the 
 unfaltering step of that fearless form, the nations read 
 their destiny. The Ehine is lined with battle-fields, 
 and mighty chieftains lie along its banks ; but there 
 never was the march of an army on its shores, not even 
 when Bonaparte trod there with his strong legions, so 
 sublime and awful as the approach of that single man 
 to Worms. The fate of a nation hung on the tread of 
 one, that of the world on the other. Crowns and 
 thrones were carried by the former, the freedom of 
 mankind by the latter." 
 
 There is to be seen here a magnificent statue of the 
 great Eeformer, who was but the son of an humble 
 miner, which occupied about nine years in the making, 
 and which cost $85,000. The statue of Luther is 
 eleven feet in height, holding in one hand the Bible, 
 and on his face emblazoned his doctrine of ' ' Justifi- 
 cation by Faith," for which he risked his life con- 
 stantly for years, and which is surrounded by various 
 eminent Eeformers, who had contributed in some way 
 to further the aims of the great Eeformer, notably 
 J6hn Huss, who fell, a martyr to his faith, one hundred 
 years prior to Luther, in spite of his safe conduct. 
 
 As this man Luther has played such a magnificent 
 part in the drama of Christianity, perhaps a few pass- 
 ing remarks upon his life and character, based upon 
 a study of the man as portrayed at the hands of one 
 of our historians (Froude), may not be entirely out 
 of place at this point. Luther's first open and undis- 
 
316 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 guised opposition to the Church of Kome was based 
 upon his honest indignation against Pope Leo X., 
 who actually proposed, by the sale of indulgences at 
 the hands of the infamous Dominican monk, Tetzel, 
 to complete that grand temple to the living God, which 
 had been designed by Michael Angelo, St. Peter's, at 
 Rome. Luther appealed to the archbishop of May- 
 ence against Tetzel' s infamous practices, but as the 
 archbishop was to share in the spoils, of course 
 Luther's appeal came to naught. His strong common 
 sense showed him that he must then appeal to the 
 hearts and consciences of the sturdy German people, 
 whom he felt to be with him, and he nailed his famous 
 protest against Tetzel on the church door at Witten- 
 burg; and in his ninety-five propositions, he challenged 
 the Catholic Church to defend successfully the practice 
 of indulgences. 
 
 Finally, as Luther firmly stood his ground, al- 
 though his life was continually in danger, he 
 was formally excommunicated, and the Elector Fred- 
 erick, of Saxony, was ordered to surrender up the 
 criminal ; but the Elector, though at great risk to him- 
 self and the country of which he was ruler, very much 
 to his credit, refused to give him up. Just about this 
 time, Charles V., who was an unblushing creature of 
 the Pope, became Emperor of Germany, and although 
 Luther had the press on his side, he was in very great 
 danger. About this time, too, the Pope issued a sec- 
 ond bull, condemning Luther and his works, but the 
 plucky little monk only made answer by contemptu- 
 
LUTHER AT WOEMS. 317 
 
 ously burning the bull in the great square at Wit- 
 tenberg. 
 
 At last came the awful summons in April, 1521. 
 The Diet of the Empire assembled at Worms, 
 and Luther was put upon his defense before his im- 
 placable enemy, Charles V. Luther knew that he was 
 in perhaps the greatest danger he had ever been in his 
 life, and friends advised him not to go, but he was 
 bold as a lion, and then it was he made his famous 
 declaration that he " would go to Worms, if there were 
 as many devils there, as there were tiles on the roofs 
 of the houses." The historian says : " No more nota- 
 ble spectacle had been witnessed in this planet for 
 many a century — not, perhaps, since a greater than 
 Luther stood before the Eoman Procurator. There, 
 on the raised dais, sat the sovereign of half the world. 
 There on either side of him stood the archbishops, the 
 ministers of state, the princes of the empire, gathered 
 together to hear and judge the son of a miner who 
 had made the world ring with his name." Before 
 that august assemblage, he made his famous defense of 
 his objectionable doctrines, refusing to retract his 
 alleged heresy, and ended with the notable words : 
 " Here I stand, I can not act otherwise ; God help me, 
 Amen." 
 
 Now, as to the great and remarkable contrast afforded 
 between the lives of Luther and the learned Erasmus ; 
 although Luther often sneered and jeered at him, and 
 never did him justice for his part in the great work which 
 he accomplished by his wonderful learning and writ- 
 
318 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 ings, yet Erasmus more than once, by his kindly inter- 
 position, released Luther from the most imminent and 
 deadly peril, and each was the counterpart and comple- 
 ment of the other, and, although they knew it not at 
 the time, each was essentially necessary, and essen- 
 tially useful to the other. The great difference was in 
 the way the two men were reared, and in the way they 
 consequently looked at these things ; Erasmus, a man 
 of the world, of letters, and polite literature, while 
 Luther was just the reverse, the son of a miner, 
 brought up in poverty and obscurity, hence, Erasmus 
 could easily gloss over an unpleasant thing by a little 
 untruth if necessary, while Luther hated anything 
 savoring of untruth as the devil is said to hate holy 
 water. And yet Luther was possessed of one of the 
 greatest minds the world has ever seen, and with it a 
 courage which knew not fear, and an indomitable will 
 and untiring energy, or else the Reformation had never 
 been an accomplished fact, or, at any rate, retarded , per- 
 haps, for centuries. 
 
 Froude, the historian, says of Luther that, ** he 
 was less subtle, less learned than Erasmus, but in 
 mother wit, in elasticity, in force, and in imagina- 
 tive power, he was as able a man as ever lived, and 
 he created the German language as an instrument 
 of literature." He further says that " in Luther, the 
 belief in God was a certainty, while in Erasmus, it was 
 only a high probability : " and this statement is enough 
 in itself to account for the wonderful industry and earn- 
 estness of Luther, as compared with the apparent luke- 
 
ERASMUS AND LUTHER. 319 
 
 warmness and timidity of Erasmus, which kept him 
 from attempting to turn waters out of their old chan- 
 nels, and institute a social revolution, a task for which 
 he himself frankly confessed that he was not fitted, 
 either by nature or inclination. 
 
 The great trouble with these two amongst the great- 
 est of the mighty geniuses, who have left their im- 
 pressions upon the world's history for all time, was 
 that they misunderstood and misconstrued each other, 
 and each other's motives ; and I am fully persuaded 
 that Erasmus came much nearer to understanding 
 Luther, and respecting him accordingly, and doing 
 him more ample justice, than Luther did towards 
 understanding and appreciating Erasmus, for no- 
 where in the writings of Erasmus, do we find such bitter 
 things said about Luther, as we find profusely strewn 
 through Luther's writings against the ally, whose able 
 controversial pamphlets, perhaps the strongest ever 
 written, were spread all over Europe, and without the 
 aid of which, it is not too much to say, that Luther's 
 progress would have been materially impeded, if not 
 entirely brought to an end ; but Luther does not seem 
 to have had the magnaminity to give Erasmus credit 
 for his immense assistance in the labors of the Refor- 
 mation in this way. 
 
 Luther's wonderful success in the Reformation, 
 which made him, perhaps, forget that he was but one 
 spoke in the wheel, albeit the leading and strongest 
 one, must have turned his head, surely, else he had 
 never said what follows against his great coadjutor and 
 
320 . A KNIGHT TEJrPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 ally, in the grand work of the Eeformation — for his 
 language certainly has anything but the sound of Chris- 
 tian forbearance, and humility. He goes on thus : 
 "All you who honor Christ, I pray you Jiate Erasmus. 
 He is a scoffer and a mocker. He speaks in riddles, 
 and jests at popery and Gospel, and Christ and God, 
 with his uncertain speeches. He might have served 
 the Gospel, if he would, but, like Judas, he has be- 
 trayed the Son of Man with a kiss. He is not with 
 us and he is not with our foes; and I say with Joshua, 
 'Choose whom ye will serve.' He thinks we should 
 trim to the times, and hang our cloaks to the 
 wind. He is himself his own first object; and as he 
 lived, he died. I take Erasmus to be the worst enemy 
 that Christ has had for a thousand years. Intellect 
 does not understand religion, and when it comes to 
 the thinojs of God it laughs at them. He scoffs at 
 Lucian, and by and by he will say: — 
 
 " * Behold, how are these among the saints whose life 
 we counted for folly ! ' 
 
 " I bid you, therefore, take heed of Erasmus. He 
 treats theology as a fool's jest, and the Gospel as a 
 fable good for the ignorant to believe." 
 
 I will not pursue the matter any further, but will 
 simply call my reader's attention to the fact that this 
 bitter attack was made upon Erasmus while he was in 
 his grave, and whence no response could well be made, 
 showing that Luther forgot, for the time at any rate, 
 not only his Christian character, but that good old 
 adage, De mortuis nil nisi bonum, as well; but as Em- 
 
MAYENCE. 321 
 
 met, the Irish patriot, said that, as for himself, he 
 would " let posterity write his epitaph," so will we 
 do the same by Erasmus, resting fully assured that 
 " when the Lord cometh to make up his jewels," Eras- 
 mus will shine with no less diminished luster than will 
 -Martin Luther. 
 
 From Worms, the railway to Mayence winds along 
 the bank of the Ehine most of the way, but it is here 
 a dull uninteresting stream, in fact, anything but the 
 most beautiful river in Europe, and you have a feel- 
 ing of disappointment at the sight, but you find out 
 afterwards that the scenery of the Rhine is between 
 Mayence and Cologne. 
 
 You feel more than consoled for your previous dis- 
 appointment by the undoubted grandeur of the scenes 
 which meet your eye from the deck of the steamer, 
 which here, for once at least, moves all too fast for 
 the usually impatient tourist. The Rhine has such a 
 swift current, as we found out afterwards, that there 
 is a difference of about five hours in making the trip 
 up and down between Mayence and Cologne, a distance 
 of less than 120 miles, and we envied the other por- 
 tion of our party who ascended the Rhine, instead of 
 descending it, and who were permitted to gaze upon 
 its beauties for several hours longer than we, who, less 
 favored, were forced to go the other way; but we 
 must say a few words of Mayence yet, before we are 
 fairly embarked upon this, perhaps, most famous river 
 of the world. 
 
 Here, again, we come across Gutenberg (called 
 
 21 
 
322 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 also Gensfleisch), whose acquaintance we first made 
 at Strasbourg, which gave him a monument be- 
 cause he made his first experiments there, with his 
 wonderful invention of movable types, which have 
 probably done more for humanity than any other in- 
 vention that the world has ever known, or perhaps ever 
 will know. He was a native of this place, and it is 
 said that the first printing office which he occupied 
 there, between the years 1443 and 1450, was still to 
 be seen a few years since. His wonderful invention 
 preceded the Reformation about eighty years, and there 
 is more than a mere coincidence in the fact that the 
 Reformation was only accomplished nearly a century 
 after this incomparable invention ; and who shall say 
 that it could have been accomplished as early as the 
 sixteenth century at all without the invaluable aid of 
 this tremendous engine of civilization, whose powers 
 are well nio;h incalculable in the assistance it has fur- 
 nished in the progress of the human race onward and 
 upward. 
 
 The learned Dr. Samuel Johnson, who was a keen 
 observer of mankind, used to say, and with very 
 much truth, the examples of Greece and Rome, to the 
 contrary notwithstanding, " that there could have been 
 no civilization before the invention of printing." 
 
 Another well known writer says on this subject that 
 *' the first printed leaf that Gensfleisch" (or Guten- 
 berg, as he is better known in these modern days), 
 "held in his hand, was a richer token to the despair- 
 ing world than the olive leaf which the dove bore back 
 
BRIDGE OF BOATS. 323 
 
 to the ark from the subsiding deluge. Men, as they 
 roam by the Khine, talk of old Schomberg, and 
 Bliicher, and Ney, and heroes of martial renown, but 
 John G-ensfleisch and Martin Luther are the two might- 
 iest men that lie along its shores." And yet he, too, 
 forgets Erasmus, who by the aid of this mighty engine, 
 scattered his printed broadsides over Europe, for 
 which even to this day Martin Luther gets all the 
 credit. 
 
 Most tourists through this part of Europe usually 
 either embark or disembark at Mayence, because the 
 fine scenery of the river begins here and extends for 
 seventy-five to one hutidred miles toward Cologne, and 
 its banks are lined with the ruins of robber castles, 
 convents, and beautiful cities and villages, all rich in 
 historical and legendary associations, equal fully to 
 anything which Rome, " that Niobe of nations," can 
 proudly boast. Here I saw the first bridge of boats 
 upon the Rhine, although we saw others between May- 
 ence and Cologne, and it interested me greatly. This 
 bridge, I should judge, was more than a quarter of a 
 mile long, and is made of boats all anchored with their 
 bows up stream, and then a solid flooring is laid down 
 upon them like any ordinary bridge. I saw them swing 
 out a section several times to let steamers and other 
 vessels pass through, and I believe the steamer we 
 took our passage on was anchored above this bridge, 
 so that we had to pass through this bridge of boats, 
 also, when we set sail from Mayence. 
 
 There is an old cathedral here, built in the tenth cen- 
 
324 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 tury, which we visited, but as we have, perhaps, writ- 
 ten ad nauseam on that subject, we will save ourselves 
 for the most famous one of Europe, which we have yet 
 to see at Cologne, and recruit our exhausted powers for 
 one tremendous final effort in writing up that. 
 
 Mayence is famous as having taken the first effectual 
 steps towards breaking up the robbers who infested 
 the Ehine, building and inhabiting most of those cas- 
 tles, during the Middle Ages, which we view to-day 
 with such vivid interest, and who made every passing 
 traveler pay tribute to their infamous demands. 
 During the Middle Aares it is said that there were no 
 less than thirty-two of these robber strongholds on the 
 Ehine between Mayence and Cologne, and after pass- 
 ing down the Ehine, as I think I must have seen some- 
 thing like fifty castles of all kinds and sizes, and in all 
 conditions of decay, it seems to me that he must have 
 been a bold sailor, indeed, who essayed to travel in 
 those days in this now by far most famous portion of 
 this justly and widely celebrated stream. 
 
 Here it was that the famous Hanseatic league was 
 formed by the Hanse towns, and which resulted in free- 
 ing the commerce of the Ehine from the heavy and 
 unjust tolls and restrictions at the hands of these bold 
 brigands of the river, which was indeed a good and 
 noble work ; and yet when we look at the matter from 
 an cesthetic standpoint, the robbers who reared these 
 once proud and haughty castles have done us a good 
 turn, for without them, would not the Ehine lose all its 
 glory and its sestheticism, and be like any other com- 
 
ANCIENT CASTLES. 325 
 
 monplace river of Europe? Here, I hope, I shall be 
 pardoned for quoting a few of Lord Byron's beautiful 
 verses concerning these robber chieftains, whom he 
 invests with a halo of romance, trying, as only he can, 
 to make you forget, if possible, that these were, as a 
 rule, villains and cut-throats of the vilest type, and, 
 indeed, with the wondrous witchery of his verse, he all 
 but succeeds : — 
 
 " True wisdom's world will be 
 
 Within its own creation or in thine, 
 Maternal nature! for who teems like thee? 
 
 Thus on the banks of thy majestic Ehine 
 
 There Harold gazes on a work divine, 
 A blending of all beauties, streams and dells, 
 
 Fruit, foliage, crag, wood, cornfield, mountain vine, 
 And chiefless castles breathing stern farewells 
 From grey but leafy walls, where ruin greenly dwells. 
 
 "And there they stand, as stands a lofty mind, 
 
 "Worn, but unstooping to the baser crowd, 
 All tenantless, save to the crannying wind. 
 
 Or holding dark communion with the cloud ; 
 
 There was a day when they were young and proud, 
 Banners on high and battles passed below; 
 
 But they who fought are in a bloody shroud, 
 And those which waved are shredless dust ere now, 
 And the bleak battlements shall bear no future blow. 
 
 " Beneath those battlements, within those walls. 
 
 Power dwelt amidst her passions ; in proud state 
 Each robber-chief upheld his armed halls, 
 
 Doing his evil will, nor less elate 
 
 Than mightier heroes of a longer date. 
 What want these outlaw conquerors should have 
 
 But history's purchased page to call them great, — 
 A wider space, an ornamental grave? 
 Their hopes were not less warm, their souls were full as brave. 
 
326 A KNIGHT TEMPLAE ABROAD. " 
 
 •' But thou, exulting and abounding river, 
 
 Making thy waves a blessing as they flow 
 Through banks whose beauty would endure forever 
 
 Could man but leave thy bright creations so, 
 
 Nor its fair promise from the surface mow 
 With the sharp scythe, — then to see 
 
 Thy valley of sweet waters were to know 
 Earth proved like heaven; and to seem such to me 
 Even now what wants thy stream that it should Lethe be? 
 
 "A thousand battles have assailed thy banks, 
 
 But these and half their fame have passed away, 
 And slaughter heaped on high his weltering ranks; 
 
 Their very graves are gone, and what are they? 
 
 Thy tide washed down the blood of yesterday I 
 And all was stainless, and on thy clear stream 
 
 Glossed with its dancing light the sunny ray 
 But o'er the blackened memory's blighting dream 
 Thy waves would vainly roll, all sweeping as they seem," 
 
 I confess that I approach with no little trepidation 
 this portion of my self-allotted task — that of attempt- 
 ing to give a faint idea of the glories of this beautiful 
 stream, which runs for six hundred miles through the 
 heart of Europe, and for the possession of whose 
 banks, and adjacent territory, the Ehine itself has 
 almost been crimsoned with the blood of slaughtered 
 thousands, and with whose every castle, and almost, you 
 might say, with every foot of whose banks either 
 some legend or historical fact is somehow indissolubly 
 blended, which invests it with a still greater interest to 
 the passing stranger, — but like one who hesitates to 
 jump into a cold bath, but feels better as soon as the 
 ice is broken, we will enter upon our task at once with- 
 out any further preliminary remarks. 
 
RHINE STEAMERS. 327 
 
 Our steamer was a small, stuffy, uncomfortable 
 affair, which, as compared with one of the beautiful 
 floating palaces of our own Hudson River, was hardly 
 to be mentioned in the same breath, but at that partic- 
 ular time I cared very little for that, and would have 
 been perfectly contented to be allowed to float slowly 
 down the beautiful river on one of our Western flat- 
 boats, or, better still, on one of those immense rafts of 
 lumber, which, at certain seasons of the year, are 
 floated down this lovely stream, and which would have 
 given me something like ample time to survey the 
 wondrous scene. However, there are two or three 
 steamers, out of the one hundred which plough this 
 historic stream, which are much finer and larger than 
 the one on which we took passage, one of which we 
 met coming up the Rhine, being called the "Kaiser 
 Wilhelm," in honor of the present aged Emperor of 
 Germany, which was a " double-decker," and looked 
 quite respectable and something like a steamer, but 
 still quite far inferior to our own luxurious and large 
 passenger vessels. To give you some idea of the im- 
 mense travel on the Rhine, it is stated that the number 
 of passengers carried on these vessels, large and small, 
 has, for a number of years past, exceeded a million 
 annually. 
 
 For a few miles below Mayence you see nothing of 
 special interest, as the banks of the river here are 
 rather flat and uninteresting, and the islands which 
 here rather thickly line the river bed, do not vary 
 the prospect much, but this is, perhaps, the widest part 
 
328 A KNiaHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 of the stream, which is nowhere, as a rule, more than 
 2,000 feet wide, but though narrow generally, is usu- 
 ally very deep. 
 
 About the first place that attracts our attention now, 
 is the famous Schloss-Johannisberg, which is especially 
 noted for its fine wines, we now being in the heart of 
 the wine districts of the Ehine, the Johannisberg being 
 considered par excellence^ the best. 
 
 This magnificent chateau is situated on a beautiful 
 eminence 340 feet out above the river, and the banks all 
 along at this point are teeming with the vine. This 
 chateau was erected more than one hundred years ago, 
 on the site of an old monastery of the Benedictine 
 Order, which dated back to the year 1106. 
 
 In 1802, this noble castle became the property of the 
 Prince of Orange, and in 1807, Napoleon having taken 
 possession of all this portion of Germany with his vic- 
 torious legions, after thoroughly humbling Austria, 
 Prussia, and Russia, in a series of brief, though brill- 
 iant campaigns, which have no equal in history, pre- 
 sented this noble castle to Marshal Kellerman, the 
 famous commander of the French cuirassiers; and in 
 1816, the Emperor of Austria, ** coming to his own 
 again," after the fall of Napoleon the Great, bestowed 
 it on Prince Clemens, of Metternich, and his son, 
 Prince Richard Metternich, is the present owner. 
 
 The famous vineyards of this castle, although they 
 only amount to about forty acres in extent, yet pro- 
 duce such excellent wine that the income from this 
 source alone, is about $40,000 per annum, or the as- 
 
A GRAND MONUMENT. 329 
 
 tonishing sum of $1,000 per acre, so rare is the 
 vintage. At Johannisberg, a good bottle of the Schloss 
 *' cabinet" wine can not be purchased under twenty 
 marks ($5), but you can get a bottle of inferior vint- 
 age, also labelled Johannisberg, for one-fifth that 
 price. But the assertion of the wine merchants that 
 the flower of the vineyards of Prince Metternich, gets 
 into the hands of the trade is perfectly absurd, as the 
 best brands are, of course, almost invariably retained 
 for certain imperial and royal cellars, and for a few 
 favored customers. 
 
 Not far from the chateau Johannisberg we reach 
 the Niederwald, a wooded hill, nearly a thousand feet 
 high, its southern slopes crowned with vineyards, and 
 not far from this, and no great distance from *' Bin- 
 gen, dear Bingen on the Rhine," on a high point on 
 the right bank of the Rhine, is to be seen one of the 
 grandest monuments to be found in all Germany, which 
 was erected to commemorate the restoration and unity 
 of the German Empire, and also as a memento to the 
 German dead, who fell in the Franco-Prussian war 
 of 1870-71, when the French Empire became among 
 the things that were. The grand old Emperor William 
 laid the corner-stone of this imposing battle monument 
 in 1877, and some idea of the size of the grand and 
 massive structure may be obtained from the fact that 
 the base of the monument is seventy-eight feet high, 
 then above this, of course, comes all the ornamentation 
 of figures conspicuous in the civic and military life of 
 Germany, then the battle scenes, etc , and then to 
 
330 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 crown all, the colossal statue of Germania is thirty-three 
 feet in height. This grand monument to the glories of 
 the German Empire, which never shone more resplen- 
 dent than at the present time, cost $300,000, and was 
 inaugurated last September (1883), with the most 
 imposing ceremonies, in the presence of countless 
 thousands, among them, some of the most eminent 
 functionaries and crowned heads of Europe. I appre- 
 hend that the only monument in the world at all 
 approaching this in grandeur, will be Bartholdi's 
 statue of ' ' Liberty Enlightening the World," which will 
 soon shine resplendent on Bedloe's Island, in our own 
 beautiful harbor of New York. 
 
 Next, we came to the pretty city of Bingen, which 
 has been immortalized in the beautiful verses, with 
 which every student is more or less familiar, written 
 by the late Lady Sterling-Maxwell, then the Hon. 
 Caroline Norton, of the French soldier born at " Bin- 
 gen dear Bingen on the Rhine," but whose life blood 
 was ebbing fast away, under the hot sun of Algeria, 
 beginning thus : — 
 
 " A soldier of the Legion lay dying in Algiers; 
 There was lack of woman's nursing, there was dearth 
 of woman's tears " — 
 
 but, who as he lies in the last agonies of the grim de- 
 stroyer, entreats his pitying comrade to carry back his 
 *' token and his sign," saying: — 
 
 " I dreamed I stood with her, and saw the yellow sunlight shine, 
 On the vine-clad hills of Bingen, fair Bingen on the Rhine." 
 
MOUSE TOWER. 331 
 
 And this beautiful poem has, no doubt, much to do 
 with the great interest which always attaches to " Bin- 
 gen on the Rhine." 
 
 Near Bingen, is the famous Mouse Tower of the 
 wicked Bishop Hattlo, in the midst of the waves where 
 he could stop all passing vessels, and like the robber 
 chieftains, although an archbishop, he played the rob- 
 ber, too, and near him stood the castles of Shrenfels 
 and Rheinstein. About the time he became the arch- 
 bishop of Mayence, a great famine fell upon his bish- 
 opric, and he being a very wicked and avaricious man, 
 bought up all the corn of the country, and sold it to 
 his starving parishoners, at the most exorbitant prices. 
 One day, a vast crowd of hungry people came to this 
 wicked man of God, (?) who dwelt in a magnificent 
 palace, and asked in Heaven's name, for just a little 
 of his precious corn, and the cunning bishop told them 
 to go to one of his granaries and wait there, and he 
 would find them food. They did so, and the cruel 
 man shut up the doors upon them, and burned them 
 all up alive, and then rejoiced at the awful sufferings 
 he had caused. But wait : — 
 
 "The mills of the gods grind slowly, 
 But they grind exceeding fine." 
 
 The fire drove from the barn thousands of rats, which 
 immediately made their way to the bishop's palace, 
 destroying every thing they came across, for they were 
 hungry, too, and although they were killed by thou- 
 sands, yet the wicked bishop, now seeing that he had 
 
332 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 indeed called down the vengeance of Heaven upon his 
 guilty head, fled to his strong tower in the midst of the 
 Khine, which he hoped would saved him from a horrible 
 death. But all in vain ; the mice swam the river in 
 countless hordes, dug under the walls, and entered the 
 very stronghold itself, and as Southey says : — 
 
 ** Whetted their teeth against the stones, 
 And then they picked the bishop's bones." 
 
 Right near here is the noted old castle of Ehrenfels, 
 built in 1210, and formerly a stronghold of the bish- 
 ops of Mayence, and at this point begins the famous 
 " Ehine Gorge," where the cliffs become more steep 
 and precipitous, and the gloomy old ruins come upon 
 you so fast that you have not time to hastily read the 
 story of one grand old ivy-covered ruin before an- 
 other one presents itself to your bewildered gaze, and 
 there is really an " embarrassment of riches," and the 
 castle market is decidedly glutted. Next you see the 
 astonishingly beautiful castle Rheinstein, which is 
 perched two hundred and fifty feet above the river, 
 and has been entirely restored to all its ancient glory 
 of pinnacles and turrets, and is used as a residence for 
 Prince Frederick of Prussia. As we passed swiftly 
 by, we saw a company of brilliantly uniformed Prus- 
 sian soldiers near the battlements, and some hand- 
 somely dressed ladies waved their handkerchiefs to us 
 from the turret of the beautiful fortress, and heard 
 the garrison band discoursing the gayest melodies. 
 
 Next we pass in quick succession, Sooneck and Furs- 
 
ROBBER STRONGHOLDS. 333 
 
 tenberg, both once robber strongholds, and then we 
 arrived at the castle of Stahleck, once the chief resi- 
 dence of the Counts Palatine. Next we pass the little 
 stone fortress in the midst of the stream known as the 
 Pfalz. 
 
 From Bingen, all the way to Bacharach, is, without 
 exaggeration, one almost uninterupted succession of 
 ruined castles and fortresses, most of them being 
 those ancient robber-strongholds of which so much 
 has been said. No wonder that this river is known in 
 poetry and song as the " castellated Ehine." 
 
 Soon we see Bacharach, which is in the midst of a 
 very fine wine district, as the name implies, which is 
 derived from two Latin words, BaccJii ara (altar of 
 Bacchus), which is, of course, a very appropriate 
 name. On the hill high above the town are to be seen 
 the ruins of a fine specimen of Gothic architecture 
 called Werner's Church, and still higher up than this the 
 castle of Stahleck. High upon the cliifs above Pfalz 
 is to be seen the still beautiful castle of Gutenfels. 
 The town, Caub, above which the castle stands, is noted 
 as the place where Blucher crossed the Ehine on a 
 pontoon boat on the 1st of January, 1814, in hot pur- 
 suit of the demoralized French army in its awful re- 
 treat from Russia. 
 
 Near Caub, is the ruined Schonberg, or Schomberg 
 Castle, which was the birthplace of the illustrious fam- 
 ily of that name, and of which stock came the famous 
 Marshal Schomberg, the favorite general of King 
 William III. , who came over to England as the Prince 
 
334 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 of Orange (his wife was the Princess Mary the 
 daughter of King James II. )» from Holland, in 1688, 
 and drove the wicked popish King James II. from 
 the throne, which he had so disgraced. Marshal 
 Schomberg was killed at the^ battle of the Boyne, in 
 July, 1690, by a cannon ball, while fighting against 
 King James in Ireland. Near this fortress are seven 
 rocks in the stream called the Seven Sisters, and al- 
 lude to seven lovely sisters of the house of Schom- 
 berg, who were great flirts, and, while running away 
 from their importunate suitors, with whom they had 
 been playing fast and loose, in a boat on the Rhine, 
 were drowned in a storm, and soon after, as the legend 
 says, those seven rocks presented themselves above the 
 surface, as a direful warning to all prudes and flirts 
 ao-ainst triflino; with the honest affections of man- 
 kind. 
 
 We must not forget all this time that besides the many 
 steamers and vessels that we meet on our way down, a 
 railway runs along either bank of the river, and we 
 hear the shriek of the locomotive, and see atrain flit by 
 us every now and then, either going up or down this 
 haunted stream, and we are transported with a sudden 
 shock, as it were, from our day dreams about the Mid- 
 dle Ages, with whose associations we are on every hand 
 surrounded, all at once into the stir and bustle of the 
 nineteenth century. Such are the strange and sudden 
 transitions that this wonderful stream affords, that it 
 is no wonder that the traveler almost imagines himself, 
 for the moment, the victim of some weird tale of 
 
RHINE SCENERY. 335 
 
 enchantment. And the strange variations of the 
 kaleidoscope are not more marvelous. 
 
 But why particularize so much, when the genius of 
 one man has, with a master hand, combined, as it were, 
 in a single verse, all the most striking features of this 
 river, for whose beauties it seems as though no epithet 
 could really be too extravagant. 
 
 " The negligently grand, tlie fruitful bloom 
 Of coming ripeness, the white city's sheen, 
 The rolling stream, the precipice's gloom, 
 The forest's growth, and Gothic walls between, 
 The wild rocks shaped as they had turrets been 
 In mockery of man's art;, and these withal 
 A race of faces happy as the scene, 
 Whose fertile bounties here extend to all 
 Still springing o'er thy banks, though empires near them fall." 
 
 Not far from the Seven Sisters spoken of above, 
 which will pass very well for the Scylla and Charybdis 
 of Virgil, the river narrows very considerably, and 
 there is quite a whirlpool which, however, does not 
 materially affect the motion of our steamer, and we 
 see the famous Lorelei, a black and precipitous rock, 
 which here rises to the height of 433 feet above the 
 Ehine ; and to a traveler descending the river it is said 
 that the profile of the rocks present something very 
 similar to that of Napoleon I., as the Salisbury crags 
 at Edinboro' are said to make the profile of the Duke 
 of Wellington, but, unfortunately, I did not hear this 
 rumor soon enough to verify it myself. This is the 
 rock where the beautiful Circe dwelt, whom the German 
 
336 A KUIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 poet, Heine, has made immortal in his beautiful poem, 
 and who, by her charms and blandishments, enticed sus- 
 ceptible and unwary fishermen and sailors to their dis- 
 traction in the rapids beneath, and the legend of the 
 Siren Lorelei is one of the most beautiful of all con- 
 nected with the Ehine. 
 
 Just as we landed at the little town opposite, a rail- 
 way train ran shrieking into a tunnel directly under 
 the huge rock, and again fact and fancy came into 
 strange opposition to each other. 
 
 There is said to be a grotto or cavern in this rock 
 which will repeat an echo fifteen times, and here the 
 river is narrowest and deepest, being at this point 
 about seventy-five feet in depth. 
 
 Now we come to the magnificent ruin of Kheinfels, 
 377 feet above the Rhine, and by far the largest and 
 most imposing ruin on the river, reminding me more 
 of Heidelberg, both by its situation and immense pro- 
 portions, than any other castle of Europe. 
 
 This castle was founded in 1245, and was, by far, 
 the strongest and most important of all the robber- 
 castles, and about ten years afterward the Hanseatic 
 League, made up of twenty-six Rhine towns and cities, 
 laid siege to it with a large army for more than a year, 
 but all to no purpose. Again, in the seventeenth cen- 
 tury, it was defended successfully against a French 
 army of 24,000 men, but in 1794 the French revolu- 
 tionary army captured it, and afterwards blew it up, 
 and now it is truly a picturesque ruin, of vast extent, 
 as it lies outlined against the sky. To give you some 
 
THE TWIN CASTLES. 337 
 
 idea of what a castle on the Khine would bring in the 
 market : it is said that this vastest of them all only 
 brought $500 when sold about half a century ago. 
 
 Not far below here, we see the famous twin castles 
 of Sterrenberg and Liebenstein, called the " Brothers," 
 from a very pretty love story connected with them, 
 which I have a mind to give for the benefit of such of 
 my readers as have a vein of romance in their composi- 
 tions: — 
 
 Two brothers, Conrad and Heinrich, were desperately 
 in love with their foster sister, Hildegarde, who, of 
 course, was as beautiful as a dream. Heinrich, un- 
 willing to contend with his only brother for the prize, 
 tore himself away, and went off to the Crusades. 
 The kind old father, Von Boppard, built the castle of 
 Sterrenberg for the nuptials of Conrad and Hilde- 
 garde, but died before the marriage had taken place. 
 Soon, like most men, not caring for what they can ob- 
 tain by simply reaching forth their hands, Conrad 
 grows cold, and finally goes off to the Crusades to 
 "participate" in the warlike achievements of his 
 brother Heinrich leaving behind him the peerless Hil- 
 degarde to pine away and die. 
 
 Suddenly Conrad returned to the castle of Lieben- 
 stein with a Grecian bride, which outraged the wretched 
 Hildegarde all the more, and she pined away in soli- 
 tude. One day Heinrich, the absent brother, hearing 
 of his brother's base treatment of Hildegarde, comes 
 home and challenges him to single combat. Hilde- 
 garde comes between them Just as they cross their 
 
 22 
 
338 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 swords, and are about to imbue their hands in fraternal 
 blood, and begs them to be reconciled, which they re- 
 luctantly consent to ; and then the broken-hearted 
 Hildegarde, instead of marrying the noble Heinrich, as 
 she should have done, woman-like retired to the con- 
 vent of Bornhofen, at the foot of the rock on which 
 the castles stood. Soon Conrad's wife proved faith- 
 less to him, as, in the eternal fitness of things, she 
 should have done, and Conrad repairs to his noble 
 brother, Heinrich, for consolation, and henceforth 
 they live together in unity, as brethren should, in their 
 paternal castle of Liebenstein, while poor Hildegarde 
 spent the rest of her lonely life as a nun. 
 
 Many of the cities and towns lying along the Ehine 
 still preserve their old walls more or less intact, and 
 especially is this the case with Boppard, where a por- 
 tion of the wall, 1,050 feet long on one side, and 490 
 feet in another direction, is still to be seen, which is 
 supposed to date from the reign of the Roman Em- 
 peror Valentinian I., in the fourth century, and which 
 originally was twenty-six feet high and ten feet thick, 
 and studded with towers. Back of the town is the 
 castle of Boppard, which, like St. Goar and Bacharach 
 above, once boasted of Commanderies of Knights 
 Templars, and it is said that the Knights Templars of 
 Boppard are mentioned as having been among the 
 ranks of the Crusaders at the siege of Ptolemais, in the 
 latter part of the twelfth century. 
 
 Next, we came in sight of the imposing old castle of 
 Marksburg, originally called the Braubacher Schloss, 
 
TEMPLAR REMINISCENCES. 339 
 
 almost 500 feet above the river, and the only one of 
 the ancient Rhine fortresses which has escaped destruc- 
 tion . * 
 
 In the year 1437, Count Philip, of Katzenellenbogen 
 (Heavens, what a name), founded a chapel in the cas- 
 tle, and dedicated it to St. Mark, and from that time 
 the grand old Scliloss has been known as Marksburg. 
 From 1650 to 1800 this castle belonged to Hesse- 
 Darmstadt, and was then used by the government of 
 Nassau for a state's prison until recent years. 
 
 Next to attract the attention, which by this time has 
 become a little wearied by the sight of so many con- 
 stantly recurring evidences of feudal times, comes the 
 picturesque castle of Lahneck, rising on a rocky emi- 
 nence behind the ancient walled town of Oberlahnstein, 
 and whose walls and towers are still in a tolerable state 
 of preservation ; and which castle was once the prop- 
 erty of our old friends, the Knights Templars, traces 
 of whom v/e have found many times during our present 
 sojourn in Europe, and as our party was mainly made 
 up of members of this noble Order, which is as ancient 
 as the Crusades, I think we all noticed these Templar 
 reminiscences with particular interest. 
 
 Now, we have but one more castle to pass, until our 
 eyes shall rest upon the grand old fortress of Ehren- 
 breitstein (or the broad stone of honor), the Gibraltar 
 of the Rhine, but before reaching that point, we 
 see the picturesque castle of Stolzenfels, which is 
 situated on a rock 310 feet high, directly over- 
 hanging the Rhine, from which it is said the finest view 
 
340 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 upon the whole river can be obtained, which is cer- 
 tainly saying a great deal. The castle is surmounted 
 by a beautiful pentagonal tower 110 feet high, and 
 dates at least as far back as 1250, and was frequently 
 a residence of the high ecclesiastical functionaries of 
 those days, who lived in a style of splendor and mag- 
 nificence which, thanks to the Reformation and the 
 Protestant religion, their successors have never been 
 able to equal. 
 
 This fortress was destroyed by the French in 
 1689, and lay in ruins until about sixty years 
 ago when the city of Coblentz having offered it 
 for sale repeatedly at the price of — how much do 
 you think — well, about $50,00, and fiaally finding 
 no buyers even at that price, the city generously 
 presented it to Frederick William IV., then the 
 Crown Prince of Prussia, who restored it at a cost of 
 $250,000 ; but now the castle belongs to the grand old 
 Emperor of Germany, who, at the age of eighty-seven 
 years, is still in the full discharge of all the functions 
 of government. Now, glorious old Ehrenbreitstein 
 sweeps in sight, and in a few minutes after passing 
 through the bridge of boats, we are at the pier at 
 Coblentz, and are anchored almost under the guns of 
 Ehrenbreitstein, which looks grimly down upon us 
 from a precipitous rock on the opposite shore, almost 
 400 feet above the river, and at last our eyes have 
 rested on one of the greatest military strongholds of 
 the world. 
 
 We have only passed over a distance of something 
 
COBLENTZ. 341 
 
 like sixty miles from Mayence to Coblentz, and yet 
 what a panorama has passed before us, not of old 
 castles and ruined fortresses alone, but beautiful cities 
 and towns, rich fields teeming with grain of every 
 kind, convents, and monasteries, here and there, beau- 
 tiful landscapes, and, in short, such a varied scene of 
 enchantment as I am persuaded can nowhere be seen 
 but on this river, which does not sweep broadly on 
 like our own majestic Hudson, but in its narrow, wind- 
 ing course, presents new beauties of scenery at every 
 turn, long enough before you have become surfeited 
 with the last. 
 
 Coblentz is most beautifully situated at the junction 
 of the Rhine and the " Blue Moselle," and is one of 
 the most strongly-fortified cities of the Rhine, and, in 
 fact, of all Europe. Its population, including Ehren- 
 breitstein, amounts to about 35,000. 
 
 Coblentz is especially rich in historical associations ; 
 even prior to the campaigns of Julius Caesar, and up 
 to the present time, this city has played its part in 
 the annals of Europe, in other words, from barbarous 
 times to the civilization of the present day. Among 
 other momentous events, the meetings of the grand- 
 sons of Charlemagne, the Great Emperor of the "West, 
 to divide the immense territory of that monarch, into 
 France, Italy, and Germany, took place here. The 
 city is triangular in shape, and is said to be able to 
 include within its walls, if necessary, 100,000 men 
 with arms, provisions, and munitions of war sufficient 
 to laugh any siege to scorn. 
 
342 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 It is said that the fortress is itself capable of con- 
 taining within its walls 14,000 men, while its magazines 
 will provision almost 10,000 men for ten years. It is 
 inaccessible on three sides, and has only three times 
 succumbed to an enemy; once from treachery, and 
 twice from hunger. It is said that so ancient is the 
 city of Coblentz, that the castle of Ehrenbreitstein was 
 well known as early as 636 A. D., and from that day to 
 this, a period of 1,200 years, has gradually reached its 
 present strength. It first surrendered in 1631, and 
 again, in 1637, but was besieged unsuccessfully four 
 times during the war of the French Revolution, but in 
 1799, resistance was found no longer possible, because 
 of starvation. After the peace of Luneville, the for- 
 tifications were demolished, but since then have been 
 restored at an expense of $6,000,000, of which France 
 contributed about half the amount, in accordance with 
 the Second Peace of Paris. Once more, we call upon 
 the magic name of Byron to tell the story of this won- 
 drous fortress : — 
 
 "Here Ehrenbreitstein with her shattered wall 
 
 Black with the miners' blasts upon her height, 
 Yet shows of what she was, when shell and ball 
 
 Rebounding idly on her strength did light; 
 
 A tower of victory from whence the flight 
 Of baflled foes was watched along the plain; 
 
 But Peace destroyed what War could never blight 
 And laid those proud roofs bare to summer's rain — 
 On which the iron shower for years had poured in vain." 
 
 In Coblentz, the large church of St. Castor, with four 
 towers, presents a fine appearance from the Rhine, 
 
HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS. 343 
 
 being near the junction of the Rhine and Moselle, and 
 dates back to 836. On the Platz in front of this 
 church, rises the monumental fountain which was 
 erected by the French to commemorate, in advance, 
 the expected success (?) of the awful Russian canvpaign 
 of Bonaparte, which cost France the lives of 400,000 
 men. 
 
 Only a few months later saw the straggling rem- 
 nants of the strand army, under the leadership of the 
 valiant Ney and the gallant Prince Eugene, recross 
 the Rhine with the Russian army intoxicated by suc- 
 cess in mad pursuit, but the Russian commandant, 
 St. Priest, when passing through Coblentz, on his 
 victorious march to Paris, instead of destroying the 
 monument with its vain-glorious inscription, with grim 
 humor, had carved below it the words *' Seen and 
 approved by the Russian commander of the city of 
 Coblentz, January 1st, 1814." After leaving Coblentz, 
 most of the interesting scenery of the Rhine is left 
 behind us, and there are only a few more points of 
 interest to be mentioned before we bid a reluctant 
 adieu to the Rhine at Cologne, in all likelihood for- 
 ever; but it needs not a second visit to this classic 
 river to rivet indelibly upon the mind of the intelli- 
 gent observer, scenes of grandeur such as he can 
 behold there, and there alone. Truly, is the Rhine 
 '* A thing of beauty, and a joy forever." 
 
 Below the city of Coblentz, you soon come to the 
 fantastic looking old castles long known as the Crane ^ 
 over 300 years old, and the Watch-tower^ of much 
 
344 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 older date, and soon you reach the ancient Roman 
 town of Andernach, where Drusus pitched his camp 
 and called the place Antonacum. It has a fine old 
 Roman gate, the ruins of an Episcopal palace, an 
 ancient church, and a curious looking watch tower. 
 The ancient walls still stand in a good state of preser- 
 vation, and as viewed from the deck of the steamer, 
 are quite interesting to the ordinary observer, and of 
 course, much more so to the antiquarian. Then comes 
 the tower of Roland, 350 feet above the river with its 
 single ivy-covered arch remaining, and then you soon 
 find confronting you the Drachenfels or Dragon's rock, 
 which is one of the Siebengebirge, or seven mountains, 
 each crowned with an ancient castle, the former seats 
 of the archbishops of Cologne. 
 
 Drachenfels is 1,056 feet high, and is often re- 
 sorted to by passing tourists in order to obtain a 
 view of the grand scenery which here confronts the 
 observer on every hand. With the ISiebengebirge, 
 or seven mountains, the grand scenery of the 
 Rhine is ended, as the banks from this on, grad- 
 ually flatten out and become dull and uninteresting, 
 and nothing is left from that point of consequence 
 before reaching Cologne, except the city of Bonn, 
 which is mainly noted for its university, which, how- 
 ever, is of comparatively modern date. Of these 
 seven hills, one the Lorrenberg, is 1,414 feet in height, 
 the Wolkenberg 1,067, the Oelberg, 1,473, the Neider- 
 stromberg, 1,066; and the Stromberg, 1,053 feet in 
 height, are all grand and imposing, but as they mostly 
 
FAREWELL TO THE RHINE. 345 
 
 loom up at some distance from the river, do not inspire 
 you with the same emotion as does Drachenfels, which 
 towers right over you from its dizzy height of over 1,000 
 feet, and here, even at the risk of the imputation of 
 quoting too much, I propose to end my feeble tribute 
 to the Rhine, hy just one more verse from Byron: — 
 
 •« The castled crag of Drachenfels 
 Frowns o'er the wide and winding Khine 
 Whose breast of waters broadly swells, 
 Between the banks which bear the vine ; 
 And hills are rich with blossomed trees, 
 And fields which promise corn and wine, 
 And scattered cities crowning these, 
 Whose far white walls along them shine, 
 Have strewed a scene, which I should see 
 With double joy, wert thou with me." 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 FROM COLOGNE TO WATEELOO. 
 
 ^UR steamer landed at the pier at Cologne about 
 nine p. m., and by the time we had gotten our- 
 selves comfortably settled in our hotel, and taken a 
 little refreshment, it was time to retire for the night, 
 as our trip had extended that day from Heidelberg to 
 Cologne, and we all retired to rest, too completely 
 
346 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 worn out with sightseeing, to even to dream of the 
 glories of that never-to-be forgotten day. The next 
 morning, we were all astir betimes in order to make 
 the most of our time, as we were to leave, at one p. 
 m., for Brussels, and I, for one, found my way to the 
 grand Cathedral and gazed upon its wondrous propor- 
 tions with awe for a few minutes, before I returned 
 to the tempting repast, consisting of bread, honey, and 
 coifee, which European hotels always set before their 
 guests, under the high-toned name of dejeuner. I, for 
 one, never presumed to question the propriety and 
 authenticity of this term, for I never once thought of 
 profaning the grand old English word, " breakfast," 
 in such a connection as this. 
 
 Cologne, as everybody knows, is not particularly 
 noted for the sweetness of its smells, although it may 
 be for the agreeableness of its perfumes, in fact, it 
 has been characterized many years ago as having ' ' sev- 
 enty distinct and separate smells," by somebody, who, 
 I presume, had more time to give them a careful anal- 
 ysis than I did, but I had not gotten many sniffs of the 
 delightful " sea breeze from the gutters," until I came 
 to the conclusion that the genius who invented the cele- 
 brated perfumery of that name must have been forced 
 to do so, as a dernier ressort in self defense, and I 
 thought that he had entitled himself to a vote of 
 thanks on the part of thousands of tourists, past, pres- 
 ent, and to come. The poet Coleridge, writes of this 
 famous old city, beginning thus: " In Coin, that town 
 of monks and bones." And when I visited the 
 
THE CITY OF COLOGNE. 347 
 
 church of Saint Ursula, containing the alleged 
 remains of the famous eleven thousand virgins, who 
 were massacred here by the cruel Huns in the fifth 
 century, I thought to myself that he had hit it off 
 pretty well. 
 
 On our way to the Cathedral, which is, of course, 
 the first place sought out by the tourist who visits 
 this ancient city, we pass a magnificent monument, 
 erected to the memory of Frederick William III., of 
 Prussia (the successor of Frederick II., who is known 
 in history as ''Frederick the Great"), which was 
 erected in the Heumarkt or " Hay market," in the 
 year 1878. The monument is surmounted by a large 
 equestrian statue of Frederick William III., and is or- 
 namented as usual with scenes from the military and 
 civic history of the German Empire, and is surrounded 
 with life-size statues of men who have been famous in 
 Germany, in various walks of life. Among the num- 
 ber may be seen, Blucher, the two Humboldts, and 
 others of more or less note in the history of Germany. 
 
 The city of Cologne is the largest and most impor- 
 tant on the Rhine, and contains 140,000 inhabitants. , 
 Here is another very large bridge of boats across the 
 Rhine to Deutz, which is, like Cologne, also strongly 
 fortified. 
 
 Cologne is the residence of an Archbishop, the largest 
 city in the Rhenish Province of Prussia, is one of the 
 most important commercial places in Germany, and is 
 a fortified city of the first class, having at all times, a 
 garrison of 7,000 men. The streets of the town are 
 
348 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 mostly narrow, crooked, gloomy, and badly drained, 
 which, of course, accounts for the name it has all 
 through Europe for want of cleanliness. 
 
 Cologne was founded by the Ubii when they were 
 compelled by Agrippa to remove from the right to the; 
 left bank of the Rhine. In A. D. 51, Agrippina, the 
 daughter of Germanicus, and mother of the wicked 
 and infamous Nero, founded here a colony of Roman 
 veterans, and the colony was named from its founder, 
 Colonia Agrippinensis. 
 
 Since 1815, when it became German again, after 
 having been in French possession for about twenty 
 years, the city of Cologne has made rapid strides, and 
 it has easily taken rank among the most considerable 
 commercial cities of Germany. Without any doubt 
 whatever, the Cathedral is the finest old Gothic struc- 
 ture in the world, and it is very doubtful if any of the 
 boasted works of antiquity could have justly been com- 
 pared with it. Its situation is commanding, being 
 nearly in the center of the city, and on an eminence 
 of considerable height. The present Cathedral was 
 begun in 1248, under the auspices of Conrad of Hoch- 
 staden, then Archbishop of Cologne, who contributed 
 largely towards the object by his own liberal contribu- 
 tions. Gerhard, of Rile, is considered to have drawn 
 the first plan of this world-famed specimen of Gothic 
 architecture. The work, however, proceeded so slowly 
 that it was not until 1322 that the new choir was con- 
 secrated. 
 
 This magnificent structure has been more than 600 
 
THE FAMOUS CATHEDRAL. 349 
 
 years in reaching its present sublime proportions, and 
 iias only been finally completed and consecrated, since 
 1880. The two towers, the loftiest in the world with 
 the exception now, I believe, of the Washington mon- 
 ument, reach the stupenduous height of 512 feet. The 
 structure is in the usual form of the Latin cross, and its 
 dimensions are truly astounding. 
 
 The entire length is 444 feet, the breadth 201 feet, 
 and at the transept 292 feet, the walls are 150 feet 
 in height, the roof is 201 feet high, and the central 
 tower, which crowns the transept is 357 feet in height. 
 
 The cathedral is so truly grand and sublime, that I 
 shall not try to describe it, but only to make a few 
 remarks concerning it, such as most readily occur to 
 me. 
 
 The south tower remained in an unfinished state for 
 400 years, and a huge crane remained suspended there 
 for the whole time, just as it was left by the workmen 
 who had last made use of it, and for centuries it was a 
 land-mark visible for many miles from Cologne in any 
 direction. This huge crane was not taken down until 
 1868, and now a slab with an appropriate inscription 
 commemorates the spot where it hung suspended for 
 four centuries. 
 
 There is a tradition that once during this time it was 
 taken down by the authorities, but Cologne was soon 
 after visited by an awful storm, which the inhabitants, 
 in their superstition, believed was sent them because 
 by taking down the crane they meant to advertise the 
 fact that they never intended to keep their vows to 
 
350 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 God and finish the cathedral, so thej hastily hoisted 
 the huge machine with its arm nearly fifty feet long 
 right back to its usual place. 
 
 In 1842 the work of attempting to finish this noble 
 structure received a fresh impetus, and from that time 
 until its completion in 1880, nearly $6,000,000 were 
 expended upon it. No picture or description by even 
 the most gifted of writers could do justice to the 
 wonderful beauty of this structure, so of course I shall 
 not attempt it. I shall only mention one wonderful 
 collection of relics in this Minster which the custodians 
 of the cathedral claim to be genuine, but when you 
 have heard the story, you may receive it cum grano sails 
 or not, just as you choose. 
 
 This is a small chapel just behind the main altar, 
 and they actually claim that it contains the ' ' bones of 
 the three Magi, or wise men of the east," who came 
 to lay their offerings at the feet of the new born Savior 
 of mankind. According to the veracious ( ?) chron- 
 icle, which is so ancient, that, of course, it will be hard 
 to dispute it successfully, the names of these famous 
 men were Gaspar, Melchior, and Balthaser, and that 
 there might be no mistake about the matter, and to 
 prevent their identity being lost, their names are actu- 
 ally written in rubies on their own skulls. This 
 shrine is, -of course, decorated in the greatest profu- 
 sion with precious stones, and although it was bereft 
 of some of the most valuable gems during the anarchy 
 and misrule of the French Ke volution, it is still valued 
 at something like a million dollars. 
 
CHURCH or ST. URSULA. 351 
 
 It is said that the legend of St. Ursula whose church 
 we next visited, and her eleven thousand virgins, arose 
 out of the misreading of the abbreviations in an an- 
 cient MS., which spoke of St. Ursula and UndecimilUa 
 V. M. (St. Ursula and UndecimilUa, Yirgin Martyrs). 
 
 This a wise transcriber read and copied thus : Ursula 
 (et) Undecim MilUa Martyrum Virginum, and thus 
 made two names into 11,000. 
 
 We next wended our way to the Church of Saint 
 Ursula and her companions, to which we have just 
 alluded, but of which we will put down a few more 
 particulars. Of course, in the first place, the whole 
 story is very absurd, but there is no doubt that this 
 church contains the alleged bones of some of the fa- 
 mous eleven thousand virgins, although a great many 
 thousands of these relics have been distributed among 
 the faithful of Europe. 
 
 Most of the numerous relics now to be seen in the 
 Church of St. Ursula were dug out of the ground of 
 the church itself, and of the surrounding parts, where 
 the convent was standing. Only a small part come 
 from the general disinterment of the year 1155. Some 
 of these relics are enclosed in numerous stone coffins, 
 put up on the south and west side of the church, some 
 are enclosed in the walls of the chancel, some again, 
 are enclosed in the walls of the church, and of the 
 golden chamber for public veneration. One scoffing 
 M. D. of our party remarked that some bones which 
 he examined belonged to the anatomy of a horse, but 
 as he was nothing probably if not a Protestant, of 
 
352 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 course every son of the true church would reject his state- 
 ment with the greatest indignation. ( ?) In the golden 
 chamber the number of these grinning skulls is about 
 1,700, among them, of course, their leader, St. Ursula, 
 many of them beautifully decorated with various gold 
 and silver ornaments, fine bead work, etc. 
 
 This golden chamber is finely decorated ,_and contains 
 three articles which are as astounding as the skulls of the 
 three wise men in the Cathedral. One of them is a 
 veritable ^^■ece of the whip ( 9) with which Christ was 
 scourged, a second, some particles of the crown of 
 thorns{ ?) of our Savior, and the third relic, is one of the 
 six water pots which were used at the wedding, at Canain 
 Galilee, where the Savior turned the water into wine. 
 The shape of this pot corresponds to the water pots used 
 in olden times in the East. It is made of alabaster, 
 and it is said to correspond with the Scriptural accounts 
 that these pots contained two or three Jewish measures 
 apiece. This alabaster pot is, in the opinion of com- 
 petent judges, an ancient one, and was, according to 
 documents in the archives of the city, in the fourteenth 
 century, brought from the Holy Land by a Cologne 
 Knight, and presented to the city. By the chief mag- 
 istrate of the city, however, it was given to the church 
 of the patron saint of the city, St. Ursula, in the 
 year 1378. At the mouth of this pot, a piece is broken 
 off, and also one of the "two handles. It is said that 
 the piece which is missing from the mouth of the pot, 
 was formerly kept amongst the sacred relics of the 
 church of Notre Dame, at Paris. 
 
A FINE PANORAMA. 353 
 
 Next, we went to see a fine panorama of the battle 
 of Grravelotte, which was on exhibition at Cologne, 
 which was quite interesting, but did not compare with 
 one of the battle of "Waterloo, which I saw at Ant- 
 werp, a few days latere but this was partly, no doubt, 
 because I had visited only the day before, that greatest 
 and most far-reaching in its results, of all the battle- 
 fields of Europe. The Prussian officer in charge of the 
 panorama, I soon found out, spoke very good English, 
 and in the course of a brief conversation I had with him, 
 told me that he participated in this sanguinary engage- 
 ment between the French and the Prussians as an officer 
 of artillery, and then he resigned his position in the 
 army. He went to New York, lived there several 
 years, married there, and after losing his wife and 
 child, the Germane Himweh, or home longing, overcame 
 him, and he returned to his native land, and re-entered 
 the Prussian army. 
 
 By the way, while I was standing near the great 
 Cathedral, a regiment of Prussian soldiers, with 
 banners flying, and a full military band playing 
 the national anthems of Germany, marched by, with 
 the precision and exactness of an automaton, and 
 when I compared them with the young French con- 
 scripts, whom I had heard chant the Marseillaise hymn 
 at the gates of Saint Cloud, I thought to myself that 
 France was now hardly any better prepared to en- 
 counter the trained phalanxes of Germany than she was 
 in 1870, when the " nephew of his uncle " was hurled 
 headlong from the throne of France by these serried 
 
 23 
 
354 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 German legions. As we still had a half an hour or so 
 to spend before our luncheon, after which we were to 
 leave for Brussels and Waterloo, " that first and last 
 of fields, King-making victory," I hastened back to 
 the great Cathedral, and ascended as far as I was al- 
 lowed, in order to obtain a view of the "wide and 
 winding Ehine," the seven mountains and all the sur- 
 rounding country, which the vast Cathedral, of course, 
 commands for miles and miles on every hand. 
 
 Up to that time, in all Europe, I had seen nothing 
 finer, and, in fact, the tall and graceful spires of 
 Cologne Cathedral were visible for miles and miles 
 after we had left the city on our way to Brussels. 
 Here I took my farewell look at the Ehine, and, once 
 more, instead of my own, I shall use the eye of genius, 
 to describe this " last, long, lingering look behind." 
 
 "Adieu, to thee, fair Rhine; how long, delighted 
 The stranger fain would linger on his way, 
 
 Thine is a scene alike, where souls united, 
 On lonely contemplation, thus might stray; 
 
 And could the ceaseless vultures cease to prey 
 On self-condemning bosoms, it were here 
 
 Where nature, nor too somber, nor too gay, 
 Wild, but not too rude, awful, yet not austere, 
 Is to the mellow earth, as Autumn to the year." 
 
 •'Adieu, to thee again; a vain adieu, 
 
 There can be no farewell to scene like thine ; 
 
 The mind is colored by thy every hue ; 
 And if, reluctantly, the eyes resign 
 
 Their cherished gaze upon thee, lovely Rhine. 
 'Tis with the thankful glance of lasting praise; 
 
 More mighty spots may rise — more glaring shine. 
 But none unite in one attaching maze 
 The brilliant, 'fair, and soft; —the glories of old days." 
 
AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 355 
 
 On the road to Brussels, the first place of any con- 
 siderable importance, is the city of Aix-la-Chapelle, 
 which is forty -three miles from Cologne, and which 
 has played a very considerable part in the history of 
 Europe, from the earliest times. It has about 85,000 
 inhabitants., and lies in a fertile basin surrounded by 
 gently sloping hills. It owes most of its fame to its 
 having been the favorite residence of the Great Em- 
 peror Charlemagne, who elevated it to the rank of the 
 second city in his Empire, and the capital of his domin- 
 ions north of the Alps, the chief capital being, of course, 
 the city of Eome. 
 
 The great Emperor died here in 814, and we noticed 
 from the railway station the dome of the cathedral 
 erected by Charlemagne between 796 and 804, which 
 contains the remains of the Great Emperor of the 
 West, which reposed on the imperial throne composed 
 of marble slabs for 186 j^ears, when they were found 
 by the Emperor Otho III., who opened the tomb in the 
 year 1000. The Emperor Frederick Barbarossa again 
 opened the tomb in 1165, and removed the remains to 
 an ancient sarcophagus, while the throne was after- 
 wards used for the coronation of the Emperors. From 
 the death of Charlemagne to the accession of Ferdinand 
 I., in 1531, Aix witnessed the coronation of all the 
 German Emperors, more than seven centuries having 
 elapsed, during which thirty-seven Emperors were here 
 crowned. 
 
 All the insignia of the Empire were preserved here 
 until the year 1793, when they were transferred to the 
 imperial treasury at Vienna. 
 
356 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 At Landen, thirty-eight miles from Brussels, was 
 born Pepin, of Landen (ancestor of Pepin the " Lit- 
 tle," and of Charlemagne), who died here in 640. 
 With him began what is known as the Carlovingian line. 
 
 Between Landen and Esemail, the railway intersects 
 the plain of Neer-Winden, the scene of. two great 
 battles. In the first battle of Neer-Winden, William 
 III. of England, in command of the allies, of whom 
 Macaulay says that he " recovered quicker from de- 
 feat than almost any General of history, who was as 
 brave but as unfortunate in the art of winning victo- 
 ries as he was," was defeated in the Spanish War of 
 Succession by the French under Marshal Luxembourg, 
 July 29th, 1693. The second battle on this field was 
 fought by the French under Gen. Dumouriez and 
 Louis Philippe, afterwards Louis XVIII. , of France, 
 who were defeated by the Austrians under the Duke of 
 Coburg, March 18th, 1793. 
 
 About thirty miles from Brussels, the train traverses 
 a lofty embankment from which, in clear weather, to the 
 left the Belgian Lion and the Prussian Monument may 
 be seen on " the grave of France, the deadly Water- 
 loo." Brussels is soon reached, and we are within 
 ten miles of the spot where the star of Bonaparte went 
 down in the darkness of eternal night. I was so 
 anxious to see this fatal field, that I could hardly wait 
 for the next day to arrive, so that I might stand upon 
 "that place of skulls," and have pointed out to me 
 many spots of interest which could yet be identified 
 upon such historic ground. 
 
THE CITY OF BRUSSELS. 357 
 
 Our plan was to see what we could of Brussels that 
 evening and the next morning, and then visit Waterloo 
 in the afternoon, and the next day was Sunday, by the 
 way, the same day of the week on which this greatest, 
 and most wonderful in its consequences, of all the bat- 
 tles of Napoleon was fought, and in which he was 
 beaten by a succession of unfortunate coincidences 
 and miscalculations, such as had never before befallen 
 him, or will be likely ever again to happen to any 
 General of the future, and in which the " man of des- 
 tiny " at last found destiny too much for him, and he 
 had to succumb to the inevitable. 
 
 His plans for winning that battle were, perhaps, as 
 near perfection as the ingenuity of that mighty genius, 
 and he alone, could conceive, and yet he was utterly 
 routed, only showing another instance of the old say- 
 ing that, " Man proposes, but God disposes." 
 
 Brussels has been called the " miniature Paris," and 
 while it is more like Paris, certainly, than any other city 
 of Europe, yet I regretted that I had not seen it 
 before seeing Paris, as the remaining portion of our 
 original party did, as, after Paris, it was a good deal like 
 reversing an opera glass, and looking at things through 
 the other end, where you see everything on a much 
 diminished scale ; but, nevertheless, there is much to be 
 seen there to instruct and amuse, and I think we made 
 good use of the time at our disposal. 
 
 Brussels, the capital of Belgium, and the residence 
 the King Leopold m., contains in all about 400,000 
 people, or about one- fifth the population of Paris, two- 
 
358 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 thirds of whom speak Flemish, and the remainder 
 French. Like Paris, it has its parks, boulevards, 
 cafes-chantants, and many other attractions, but most 
 people who go there do so, I think, more for the pur- 
 pose of making a trip to Waterloo than anything else. 
 If you desire it, they will still show you the house where 
 the Duchess of Eichmond was giving her famous ball on 
 the night of Thursday, June 15th, 1815, when the open- 
 ing cannonading of Quatre-Bras and Ligny, which were 
 preliminary to the great drama of Waterloo, was heard, 
 in both of which Bonaparte was victorious. Marshal Ney 
 having beaten the Prince of Orange, and the Duke of 
 Brunswick, who fell in the engagement at Quatre- 
 Bras, and Grouchy also beating the Prussians at Ligny 
 on Friday, the 16th of June, two days before the 
 final catastrophe at Waterloo. 
 
 The Duke of Wellington intended originally to meet 
 Bliicher at Qnatre-Bras, before fighting Napoleon at 
 all, but the latter, with his wonted energy and bound- 
 less genius, was using his usual tactics of crushing the 
 enemy, by whipping him in detail, whilst Wellington, 
 with Generals Picton and Ponsonby, the Duke of 
 Brunswick and the Prince of Orange, with other lesser 
 lights, were disporting themselves among " fair women 
 and brave men," at the Duchess of Richmond's ball. 
 
 Who has not read Byron's wonderful pen picture of 
 the stirring scenes of that eventful night? — 
 
 "Ah! then and there was hurrying to and fro, 
 And gathering tears, and tremblings of distress, 
 And cheeks all pale, which but an hour ago 
 
GALERIE DE LA REINE. 359 
 
 Blushed at the praise of their own loveliness ; 
 
 And there were sudden partings, such as press 
 The life from out young hearts, and choking sighs, 
 
 Which ne'er might be repeated; who would guess 
 If evermore should meet those mutual eyes. 
 Since upon night so sweet such awful morn could rise." 
 
 That evening I strolled around the city to see what 
 I could of it by gaslight, and the scenes presented on 
 the boulevards and in the gay cafes irresistibly took 
 me back to Paris. One of the famous sights of Brus- 
 sels is the Galerie de la Heine, or Queen's Arcade, 
 which extends straight through two blocks, and is the 
 most fashionable promenade in the city of Brussels. 
 This magnificent arcade is near the Hotel de Ville, or 
 City Hall, and is 700 feet long, 60 feet high, and about 
 80 wide, and is lined with some of the finest and 
 attractive stores in the city, and is constantly thronged 
 by vast crowds, among them, many pre-eminently 
 rich and fashionable. 
 
 The Grande Place, at Brussels, is probably one of 
 the finest and most imposing specimens of the rich 
 architecture of the Middle Ages to be seen in Europe ; 
 and the grand old Hotel de Ville, with its beautiful 
 spire tapering to the heavens, and its front carved 
 with beautiful arches and grinning faces of every 
 design in the world, which it seems that human inge- 
 nuity can devise, is truly a noble spectacle. It was 
 in this square that was held the chief rendezvous of 
 the British troops in Brussels, on the night that the 
 news was received of Bonaparte's advance on Brussels 
 by way of Quatre-Bras and Waterloo, as up to that 
 
360 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 time, the Duke of Wellington had been entirely in the 
 dark as to where Bonaparte would strike. The Hotel 
 de Ville is pre-eminently " the sight " of Brussels, and 
 the spire, which is 360 in height, is crowned with a 
 gilded metal figure of the Archangel Michael, which 
 is 16 feet high, and which, unlike most statuary of 
 that kind, is movable, and serves the purpose of a 
 weathercock. Near here is a curious little fountain 
 called the *' Mannikin," and which is much admired 
 by the good Belgian folk, who on fete days attire him 
 infancy costume, and who disport themselves much 
 at his comicality. When I saw him I was much 
 amused, and instantly thought of the boyish figure 
 which surmounts the beautiful fountain in Fountain 
 Square, Cincinnati, and of the verse which appeared 
 in the Cincinnati Enquirer, when the fountain was 
 dedicated some twelve or thirteen years ago. 
 
 "Der small boy, he stands on der fountain 
 Und lie don't got on any clothes, 
 And de girls, dey all blush and say 
 Vot he means by such conduct as dose? " 
 
 In the Grande Place, there formerly stood a monu- 
 ment to the Counts Egmont and Home, who sealed 
 their patriotism with their blood at the hands of the 
 infamous and cruel Duke of Alva, at th,e time when 
 he desolated the Low Countries with fire and sword, and 
 whom Goethe has handed down to posterity in his 
 famous Egmont. 
 
 The King's Palace is a grand affair, of course, but 
 can only be visited when King Leopold is absent, which 
 
PALACE OF JUSTICE. 361 
 
 is shown by the absence of a flag which floats from the 
 palace when the king is in Brussels. As we drove by 
 on that beautiful Sabbath morning we noticed the flag 
 proudly floating from the flag-staff, so we did not stay 
 our progress. 
 
 The city is divided into the upper and lower town, 
 in the former of which dwell the aristocracy. In 
 strolling around the city after we returned from 
 Waterloo, we passed through several streets occupied 
 by the lower classes, nearly all of them wearing saSo^s, 
 or wooden shoes — and you can imagine the contrast 
 they presented to the elegantly dressed people whom 
 we had seen leisurely strolling through the Queen's 
 Arcade only the evening before. 
 
 When we were in Brussels we saw the new Palais 
 de Justice, or Palace of Justice, built entirely of white 
 marble, and which is certainly one of the finest public 
 buildings to be seen in Europe. Here are held all the 
 courts of Brussels, and the sittings of the Legislative 
 Assembly. The palace has stamped upon it, at fre- 
 quent interval the letters " S. P. Q. B." for the Latin 
 " ^enatus Populusque Belgarum," (" the Senate and 
 People of the Belgians ") in imitation of the " S. P. 
 Q. R.," or " Senatus Populus-que Romanus," of the 
 ancient Romans. There is also a handsome monument 
 surrounded by lions, like the famous Nelson monument in 
 Trafalgar Square, London, called the column of Con- 
 gress, in commemoration of the Congress which assem- 
 bled here in 1831, for the adoption of the present 
 constitution of Belgium. 
 
362 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Of course, Brussels has its usual grand old cathe- 
 dral, Samt Gudule, which is somewhat centrally situ- 
 ated on the slope up to the new part of the town. 
 This cathedral, though founded in the twelfth century, 
 is not especially noted for its architecture, but derives 
 its chief fame on account of its beautiful interior, and 
 for its large and superb stained glass windows, which 
 are esteemed as second to none in the world, and cer- 
 tainly, in the cathedrals of Europe, which I had visited, 
 all of which, without exception, were more pretentious 
 than St. Gudule, I had seen nothing to compare with 
 them. The pulpit in this church is also superior to 
 anything of the kind we had seen in Europe, and must 
 have been the work of some carver like the famous 
 Grindling Gibbons. One group represents Adam and 
 Eve driven from Paradise, while the pulpit itself is 
 supported by the tree of knowledge of good and evil, 
 while surmounting the canopy of the pulpit is repre- 
 sented the Virgin Mary, holding the infant Savior, 
 who is attempting to bruise with the cross the serpent's 
 head. 
 
 I must not omit to mention something of interest 
 to every Knight Templar — the superb equestrian 
 statue in bronze, of that grand old Templar and Crus- 
 ader, Godfrey de Bouillon which was erected in 1848, 
 in the Place Eoyale. 
 
 Near the church of Saint Gudule, we visited one of 
 the lace manufactories, though it was Sunday, and saw 
 the work of making this beautiful fabric, in actual 
 progress, and saw some of the most expensive and 
 
WIERTZ MUSEUM. 363 
 
 beautiful specimens of that manufacture, which it was 
 ever my lot to look upon. However, although we had 
 at least one millionaire among us, I do not think that 
 our party made any very extensive or expensive pur- 
 chases. 
 
 After all this there was not much left to see except 
 the picture galleries of Brussels, of which there are 
 two : one called the Museum or " Musee de Peinture," 
 which is divided into two galleries, one called the 
 "Old Masters," consisting of Flemish, Italian, and 
 Spanish productions ; and the other, that of the modern 
 Belgian masters, which includes also statuary, and 
 which is considered superior to the famous Antwerp 
 collection — but I was not interested here as I was in 
 the famous Wiertz museum, which is certainly one of 
 the quaintest, and most unique collections to be found 
 in the world, the artist, Wiertz, having gained a great 
 reputation for eccentricity, but certainly it is the 
 eccentricity of genius. 
 
 This gallery is justly regarded as one of the chief 
 attractions of Brussels. The building is filled with the 
 productions of the one artist alone. 
 
 The ceiling and a portion of the walls are cov- 
 ered with immense frescoes, some representing battle 
 scenes from the Iliad and Odyssey of Homer, 
 which gave me a tremendous conception of the 
 warriors and giants of antiquity. One picture repre- 
 sented the vast arms and lower limbs of the giant 
 Polyphemus, having in his relentless grasp the fol- 
 lowers of the crafty Ulysses, they, of course, in 
 
364 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 comparison being mere pigmies, and I thought at once 
 of the famous line of Virgil, which portrays so vigor- 
 ously this horrid monster: — 
 
 *' Monstrum horrendum, informe, ingens, cut lumen aclemptum." 
 
 Another picture is especially notable, and represents, 
 I suppose, the personal and national antipathy of the 
 artist, who was of German extraction, to the famous 
 subject. I allude to the picture entitled " Napoleon 
 in Hell," in which his lower limbs are enveloped in 
 flames, and around and in front of him are seen hover- 
 ing the demoniacal faces of malignant furies, which 
 are, I suppose, intended to represent the menaces of 
 widows and orphans which he had made in his numer- 
 ous and sanguinary wars. The artist, however, in spite 
 of himself, could not refrain from doing justice to 
 the mighty and undaunted soul of this extraordinary 
 man, for he depicts him as though perfectly unmoved 
 by the terror of his surroundings : — 
 
 '•With folded arms Napoleon stood, 
 Serene, alike, in peace and danger." 
 
 Some of his conceptions are absolutely startling in 
 their intense truthfulness to life. Among these, one 
 represents the corpse of some person who had died with 
 the cholera, being taken from his chamber for inter- 
 ment, and his poor wife and children clinging to the 
 coffin and the persons who carry it, as though they 
 would fain detain their beloved but a little longer, and 
 weeping as though their hearts would break. 
 
VISIT TO WATERLOO. 365 
 
 Another represents a poor mother who, in her mad- 
 ness, has killed her only child, and has cut it up, and 
 is actually cooking it in one of her kettles for her 
 repast. 
 
 Still another is that of a young girl rather lightly 
 clad, who appears gazing at the spectator from a half 
 open door, and as though she would fain avoid the 
 licentious eye of the stranger. 
 
 Another one, still more curious, and which you do not 
 " see through " at once, represents the habiliments of 
 a person clad as though for the Arctic regions, but 
 there is something; curious and incono:ruous about the 
 face which does not seem to correspond with the rest 
 of the body. You look again, and, apparently, the 
 face is that of some living person, but, of course, that 
 can not be ! You look once more, and at last recognize 
 your own face as the one which you have seen in- 
 geniously reflected in some looking-glass. I was 
 startled not a little when I made this discovery, and 
 I watched with much interest, several others look at 
 the same picture, and they all, like myself, seemed 
 at first puzzled and then surprised. 
 
 Now comes the most interesting part of our visit to 
 to Brussels, or at least it seemed so to me — the trip to 
 Waterloo — for, from my earliest boyhood, I had de- 
 voured with avidity every thing I could put my hands 
 on concerning this mighty warrior, and here I was 
 actually only ten miles away from the fatal spot where 
 he " fell, like Lucifer, never to hope again," and the 
 train seemed to me to move all too slowly. If you 
 
366 A KNIGHT TEMPLAU ABROAD. 
 
 go by rail, you start from the Station du Midi in 
 Brussels, and leave the train at Braine 1 'Alleud, not at 
 Waterloo Station, which you reach first, but is some- 
 what further from the field of battle than Braine 
 1 'Alleud, which is about one mile away. However, if 
 you alight at "Waterloo, you will find something worth 
 seeing there, in the little church, in which are tablets 
 inscribed with the names of British officers and men 
 who fell in the engagement, and a bust of the Duke of 
 Wellington, and hard by, is the house where he wrote 
 his dispatches to Lord Bathurst, the English Secretary 
 for War, on the night of the victory. It was this cir- 
 cumstance which, no doubt, gave the name of Waterloo 
 to this famous battle, for the village is some two miles 
 from the fatal field, and had no immediate connection 
 with the battle whatever. 
 
 To understand the plan of this battle, let me quote 
 Victor Hugo's account from Les Miserables, whose 
 masterly pen picture of the engagement will probably 
 never be equaled by mortal man.^ Of course, I shall 
 easily be pardoned for quoting so much from him, who, 
 himself, though a Frenchman, has written a singularly 
 
 1 Since the above was written, the author of "A Knight Temp- 
 lar Abroad " has completed a translation (which will be published 
 at an early day,) of M. Erckmann-Chatrian's Historical novel, 
 "Waterloo," which gives an elaborate and graphic account of the 
 battles, both of Ligny and Waterloo, which has gone through 
 twenty-nine editions in Europe, and for whose kindly reception by 
 the reading public the translator asks only as flattering a greeting 
 as he is happy to say that "A Knight Templar Abroad" has met 
 with, despite its many shortcomings and imperfections. 
 
SKETCH OF THE BATTLE. 367 
 
 impartial narrative, in wliich he does ample justice to 
 the English, though his country's ancient enemy. He 
 says in this wonderful sketch : — 
 
 *' Those who wish to form a distinct idea of the bat- 
 tle of Waterloo need only imagine a capital A laid on 
 the ground. The left leg of the A is the Nivelles road, 
 the right one, the Genappe road, while the string of 
 the A is the hollow way running from Braine 1 ' Alleud 
 to Ohain. The top of the A is Mont St. Jean, where 
 Wellington is; the left lower point is Hougomont, 
 where Reille is with Jerome Bonaparte ; the right lower 
 point is La Belle Alliance, where Napoleon is. A lit- 
 tle below the point where the string of the A meets and 
 cuts the right leg, is La Haye Sainte, and in the center 
 of this string is the exact spot where the battle was 
 concluded. It is here that the ' Lion ' is placed, the 
 involuntary symbol of the heroism of the Old Guard. 
 The triangle comprised at the top of the A, between 
 the two legs and the string, is the plateau of Mont 
 St. Jean ; the dispute for this plateau was the whole 
 battle. The wings of the two armies extend to the 
 right and left of the Genappe and Nivelles roads, 
 d 'Erlon facing Picton, Reille facing Hill. Behind the 
 point of the A, behind the plateau St. Jean, is the 
 forest of Soignes. As for the plain itself, imagine a 
 vast undulating ground ; each ascent commands the 
 next ascent, and all the undulations ascend to Mont St. 
 Jean, where they form the forest." 
 
 Of course, visitors to the ground at the present day 
 or for that matter, for many years past, find the 
 
368 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 scene of the battle so changed that it is nothing like 
 its former self; in fact, the Duke of Wellington, visit- 
 ing the field only a few years after his famous victory, 
 said, *' My battle-field has been altered." 
 
 However, much of this change may be accounted 
 for by the rearing of the stupenduous mound of earth, 
 on which the Belgian Lion is located, which is two 
 hundred feet high and nearly half a mile around, and 
 the earth for which was obtained by cutting down the 
 field of battle. 
 
 The English had, unquestionably, far the advantage 
 in position, as Wellington had, fortunately for himself, 
 visited the field several years before, and, accordingly, 
 when his forces fell back from Qatre-Bnis and Ligny 
 before the victorious legions of Napoleon, instead 
 of halting his forces on the lower heights, which the 
 French subsequently occupied, as that was then " Hob- 
 son's choice," he very wisely fell further back to the 
 plateau at Mont St. Jean, where he knew of the 
 "Sunken Road," which would in the former event 
 have been in his rear in case of retreat, and which 
 would now make his position much stronger against 
 the French advance. 
 
 Hugo says, that " at the time of the battle the 
 Swiken Road (which is scarcely now discernible) 
 was at least twelve feet deep, and although it ran 
 along the crest of the plateau of Mont St. Jean, was 
 not visible to an observer who was below the crest at 
 all." 
 
 This hollow way was on the left wing of the British 
 
THE BATTLEFIELD. 369 
 
 array, and as the result proved, was their salvation, 
 and the prime factor in the defeat of the French. 
 
 The Emperor Napoleon was, essentially, an artillery 
 fighter ; in fact, he made his first reputation when 
 but a Lieutenant at the siege of Toulon by the way 
 he handled his guns there, and at Waterloo he outnum- 
 bered the enemy in guns very materially, having two 
 hundred and forty pieces to confront the one hundred 
 and fifty-nine of Wellington, but the superior posi- 
 tion of Wellington more than made up for the differ- 
 ence, as the result proved. 
 
 The fate of Europe turned on several apparent 
 trifles which played an all-important part in this battle. 
 
 First of all, was the heavy rain of the night before, 
 which made the plain of Waterloo almost impassable 
 for artillery until half-past eleven o'clock in the morn- 
 ing of the 18th of June. Then came the fatal mistake 
 in regard to the stone wall of Hougomont, which was 
 thought to be only a hedge; then the ignorance or 
 treachery of Lacoste, the peasant (though it matters 
 not much, which, now, as the result is the same in 
 either case), who failed to give Bonaparte the informa- 
 tion which would have been simply invaluable to him 
 (and which might, in spite of everything, still have 
 changed the issue of the battle), concerning the exist- 
 ence of the " Sunken Koad;" then the peasant boy, 
 consulted by Bliicher, who did know the shortest route 
 to Waterloo, instead of the longest, there being two 
 routes to reach the battle ground, the latter of which, 
 had Bliicher taken it, would inevitably have detained 
 
 24 
 
370 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 him too long to come up to the assistance of WeUing- 
 ton before it was too late to succor him, and thus win 
 the day as they did ; and last of all, the cowardice or 
 treachery of Marshal Grouchy, who, instead of sacri- 
 ficing his whole army if need were to save Napoleon 
 (just as in olden times, according to the legend, the 
 chivalrous and gallant Quintus Cartius leapt into the 
 yawning gulf in the Eoman Forum to save Rome, 
 and the chasm which threatened the safety of the 
 Eternal City immediately closed over his devoted 
 head), let Blucher flank him, and yet stood irresolute, 
 within the sound of Napoleon's cannon, instead of 
 hastening to the rescue, and that, too, despite the im- 
 portunities of his own Grenerals who earnestly begged 
 to be led to Waterloo to the succor of their beloved 
 Emperor. 
 
 All this extraordinary, and totally unforeseen and 
 unexpected concatenation of circumstances threw 
 their weight into the scales and Napoleon was lost. 
 By the way, while speaking of Grouchy' s wholly in- 
 explicable conduct on that eventful day and of his 
 ignominious share in the dread result at Waterloo, 
 (and concerning which, en passant^ Headley, the his- 
 torian, says, and as I think most Justly, " that he 
 charges the crime and suffering of Waterloo, on Eu- 
 ropean despots, rather than to Bonaparte)," it here 
 occurs to me as, to say the least, a little remarkable, 
 that no writer (save Grouchy himself), with whom I 
 am acquainted, not even Hugo, in his singularly dis- 
 passionate narrative of Waterloo, has accounted for 
 
MARSHAL GROUCHY. 371 
 
 the '* masterly state of inactivity," of which Grouchy 
 was seemingly guilty on that fatal day, or has even 
 attempted to explain why, after having won the battle 
 of Ligny on Friday, he assisted so largely by his sin- 
 gular conduct (to call it by no worse name), in losing 
 Waterloo on Sunday. 
 
 Grouchy, afterwards, in his Fragments Historiques, 
 published at Paris, in 1840, tried to vindicate his con- 
 duct on that occasion by saying that the Emperor had 
 ordered him to hold his post at all hazards (but those 
 orders, of course, meant that he should prevent 
 Bliicher from effecting a junction with Wellington, so 
 that Napoleon might repeat his favorite tactics of 
 getting an army separated into fragments and then 
 falling upon these fragments and beating them in de- 
 tail), and that he had but obeyed orders (possibly 
 in the letter, but most assuredly not in the spirit); 
 but the fallacy of his position consists in this, that there 
 was no longer any occasion for that after Bliicher had 
 already flanked him and moved on Waterloo, to 
 the relief of Wellington, but he should immediately 
 have fallen upon Bliicher' s rear guard with his whole 
 army and pursued him to Waterloo, and thus at least, 
 have effected a diversion in Napoleon's favor, if no 
 more. 
 
 The French people, however, always distrusted him, 
 and his labored explanation carried no weight with it ; 
 and Grouchy must accept one horn of the dilemma, 
 and must, in the pages of history, rest forever under 
 the imputation of either cowardice (which his previous 
 
372 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 reputation as a gallant officer wholly belies), or treason 
 to Napoleon, which is the more probable theory, and 
 the one more generally accepted. 
 
 Of course, I shall not presume to try to give even 
 a faint description of this momentous struggle between 
 Napoleon alone and unaided on the one hand, and the 
 greatest allied powers of Europe on the other, but I 
 hope I may be pardoned for my presumption in haz- 
 arding a few remarks based upon the careful study of 
 this historic field, as described by several writers of 
 note. 
 
 At half past eleven o'clock in the morning, Jerome 
 Napoleon led the charge on the chateau of Hougomont 
 (or Goumont), with a serried column of 6,000 men, 
 expecting easily to capture the chateau, and thus turn 
 the right wing of the allies; but, instead, the French 
 found it to be a " tower of a strength," and a strong- 
 hold which really turned out afterwards to be a " coign 
 of vantage," and the key of Wellington's position, 
 and the factor which virtually decided the battle, for, 
 although the French performed prodigies of valor, and 
 Kellerman's cannon balls dashed like rain against the 
 solid wall of Hougomont with its 38 loop-holes, still 
 seven companies of the Coldstream Guards held the 
 chateau for seven hours against all the oft-repeated 
 and fiery attacks of the French. 
 
 In the garden of Hougomont, 1,500 men fell in less 
 than an hour, and in the orchard, both of which were 
 taken by the French, after a most stubborn resistance ; 
 although the chateau, though in flames, resisted to the 
 
DESCRIPTION OF THE BATTLE 373 
 
 last their most persistent endeavors, a battalion of 
 Nassau, 700 strong, were cut to pieces in an hour. 
 
 Hugo says that " around Hougomont, twenty French 
 battalions, of the forty composing Keille's corps, were 
 decimated, and 3,000 men were sabred, gashed, 
 butchered, shot, and burnt." 
 
 La Haye Sainte, on the left wing of the Allied forces, 
 also made a most stubborn resistance, so much so that 
 the French lost 1,800 men in less than an hour in the 
 vain assault upon it, but about three p. m. after giv- 
 ing and receiving immense slaughter, as they had to 
 ascend a bank so steep that, even the gunners, from 
 their intrenchments could not see the valley below, as 
 Hugo says, this stronghold was taken, and the French 
 seemed about to snatch the victory from the almost, at 
 this juncture, nerveless grasp of the allies. 
 
 About four p. m. the Duke of Wellington withdrew 
 his forces from the edge of the plateau, and Napoleon 
 thought this maneuvre was the beginning of the re- 
 treat. Now comes the beginning of the end, the 
 famous charge of the heavy dragoons and cuirassiers, 
 with Marshal Ney at their head, and the fatal episode 
 of the sunken road, which was next to the mistake in 
 regard to Hougomont and the failure to take it, and 
 thus turn the right flank of the allies, the most awful 
 blunder of that seemingly day of blunders, on the part 
 of Bonaparte. 
 
 This magnificent column of 6,000 of the best cavalry 
 of Europe, was formed in two divisions, Wathier in 
 in command on the right, and Delord on the left, with 
 
374 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 the superb Ney at their head, and trotted forward 
 in "battle's magnificently stern array," up the steep 
 and muddy slope of Mt. St. Jean, in order to take the 
 plateau under a plunging fire of grape and canister. 
 They knew neither of the sunken road, nor the masked 
 battery of sixty guns supported by twenty-six English 
 squadrons, formed in thirteen solid squares, with seven 
 men in the first line and six in the second, who could not 
 yet see the French advance, but could hear them shake 
 the very earth with the impetuosity of their charge. 
 
 They reached the crest, the English masked battery 
 reserving their fire, and then they discovered the 
 awful ditch between them and the enemy, which with 
 the impetus of their advance must be filled with men 
 and horses, " all in one red burial blent," before the 
 awful gap could be bridged over, and then the awful 
 carnage commenced with more fiery intensity than ever. 
 
 Since those days, nothing has been seen to compare 
 with this impetuous charge " into the jaws of death, 
 into the gates of hell," unless it be the charge of the 
 600 at Balaklava. 
 
 Wathier's column which was on the right wing of the 
 charge, suffered almost exclusively by this horrible 
 blunder, as Delord, who was on the left, by good fortune 
 escaped the catastrophe almost entirely, but tradition 
 says that 1 500 men and 2,000 horses filled this awful 
 ditch. 
 
 Then burst forth upon the devoted heads of the 
 French the masked battery of sixty guns, of which 
 they knew as little as they did concerning the sunken 
 
THE FAMOUS CHARGE. 375 
 
 road, but nevertheless these heroes, who survived 
 that awful catastrophe held that plateau for two 
 long hours, without any support from infantry, 
 and almost succeeded in penetrating the English 
 center, although surrounded on every side by over- 
 whelming numbers of the enemy, including cavalry, 
 solid English squares and artillery, and had Napo- 
 leon moved up the Old Guard at this time, to their sup- 
 port why would he not have swept everything before 
 him with resistless violence? As it was, they annihi- 
 lated seven out of the thirteen solid squares, captured 
 or spiked the entire battery of sixty guns, and cap- 
 tured six English regimental flags, and still held a por- 
 tion of the plateau. 
 
 No wonder even Wellington, the " Iron Duke," was 
 awed, and at this awful moment he ejaculated, " O ! for 
 night, or Bliicher !" 
 
 Now, comes the crisis; the gleam of distant bayo- 
 nets is seen, and on both sides the question is asked 
 over and over again, with the anguish born of such an 
 awful moment, when the political destiny of Europe 
 and the fate of a great empire hung vibrating in the 
 balances, with none to foretell the end with any cer- 
 tainty, "Is it Bliicher or is it Grouchy?" History 
 has recorded the answer, and Bonaparte, attacked in 
 front and rear, is indeed, in dire distress. 
 
 It is now about 7 o'clock in the evening, and the 
 Emperor, almost beside himself with anxiety, like 
 Wellington, calls for the Old Guard, makes to them 
 a last frenzied appeal, for on them hang all his. 
 
376 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 hopes of Empire, which is now, indeed, all but shat- 
 tered, hastily forms these heroes of a hundred battles, 
 and almost as many victories, into two divisions, one 
 under Reille, and the other under Ney (who has been, 
 as usual, in the thickest of the fight, having had five 
 horses shot under him, and without as yet receiving 
 hardly so much as a scratch), who are to meet at the 
 British center. The column under E-eille, under the 
 terrible hailstorm of grape and canister soon dissolves 
 like frost before the morning sun, while Ney's column, 
 as if endowed with the same matchless valor, and dis- 
 regard of human life as was their gallant leader, forces 
 the plateau of Mt. St. Jean, and marches resistlessly 
 on over everything in their course, and pushed their 
 advance almost to the very spot where Wellington 
 himself sat on his horse, surrounded by his Guard. 
 
 At this crisis, the Allies seem lost, indeed, when 
 Wellington, who has concealed behind a low ridge of 
 earth, a body of infantry as yet unseen by the French, 
 cries out suddenly above the din of battle, ' Up 
 Guards, and at 'em ; ' and the Guards, suddenly spring- 
 ing to their feet, fire volley after volley into the 
 ranks of the Old Guard, who, thrown into confusion, 
 by this sudden attack and resistance from an unex- 
 pected source, when they had been hitherto sweeping 
 everything resistlessly before them like an avalanche, 
 at first falter, then break, the rout is commenced, the 
 British and Allies order a general advance all along the 
 lines, the cry of Sauve qui jpeut, is heard on every 
 side from the flying French, and soon all is over. 
 
AFTER THE BATTLE. 377 
 
 Napoleon disdains to fly, but Marshal Soult, who 
 had never left the Emperor's side during the entire 
 day, with others of his staff, puts him on a horse, and 
 literally forces him from the field. 
 
 Sixty thousand men lie dead and wounded on this 
 awful field, and Wellington, after meeting Bliicher, 
 near La Belle Alliance, the farm-house which had been 
 Napoleon's headquarters during the engagement, 
 rides back by moonlight over the scene of carnage, 
 unequaled since Cannae, while the cruel Bliicher pur- 
 sues the fugitives for thirty miles through the long 
 summer night, giving no quarter. 
 
 It is said that even Wellington, callous soldier as he 
 was, wept at the awful scene of carnage. 
 
 The last act in the drama was over, and in the glow- 
 ing words of Hugo, "At nightfall, Bernard and Ber- 
 trand seized by the skirt of his coat, in a field near 
 Genappe, a haggard, thoughtful, gloomy man, who, 
 carried so far by the current of the rout, had just 
 dismounted, passed the bridle over his arm, and was 
 now, with wandering eye, returning alone to Water- 
 loo. It was Napoleon, the immense somnambulist of 
 the shattered dream, still striving to advance." 
 
 It is not a little curious, that Napoleon at the time 
 of the battle, made light of Wellington's capacity as a 
 General, and Wellington since, on many occasions, has 
 decried in a rough, blunt way (which, certainly reflects 
 no credit upon either his head or his heart), the char- 
 acter of Napoleon, and his talent as a general. 
 
 Hugo, however, says, that " Waterloo was a battle 
 
378 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 won by a General of the second class over a General of 
 the first," and such it seems to us, must be the impar- 
 tial verdict of history. 
 
 Upon the day of our visit to Waterloo, our guide 
 who told us in his broken English, that his father 
 had helped to carry the wounded to the hospitals, and 
 bury the dead after the battle, recounted to us in the 
 most dramatic manner (and to me it was intensely 
 interesting), the story of the battle, whilst we were 
 seated around the Belgian Lion, at the top of the bat- 
 tle mound of Waterloo, which of course gave us an ad- 
 mirable view of the salient features of the field, as our 
 guide told us the story in his excitable and intensely 
 Frenchy manner, despite his amusing attempts to con- 
 quer the " Queen's English." 
 
 I remember, especially, one statement which he made 
 while telling us the story of Waterloo, which occupied 
 him perhaps a half hour in his broken, disjointed 
 way, but interesting, nevertheless, which was this : — 
 
 He said that prior to the battle, the Emperor was 
 speaking rather disparagingly to Marshal Soult, 
 regarding Wellington's military talents, when Soult 
 interposed, and said, 
 
 " Oh, no, my Emperor; you do not know him. 1 
 have fought with him on the Peninsula." 
 
 Now, we come to the personal opinion of the Duke 
 of Wellington in regard to Bonaparte. 
 
 Among the many interesting features of the " Cor- 
 respondence and Diaries of John Wilson Croker," just 
 published in New York, are Croker' s notes of Conver- 
 
WELLINGTON AND BONAPARTE. 379 
 
 sations with the Duke of Wellington," taken down as 
 they occurred. 
 
 The following extracts relate mainly to Napoleon 
 and Waterloo, and for that reason, we reproduce them 
 here, believing that they will be found both valuable 
 and interesting. 
 
 Speaking of Bonaparte, the Duke said: — 
 
 *' I never was a believer in him, and I always thought 
 that in the long run, we should overturn him. He 
 never seemed at his ease, and, even in the boldest 
 things he did, there was always a mixture of appre- 
 hension and meanness. I used to call him Jonathan 
 Wild, the Great, and at each new coup' he made, T 
 used to cry out, ' Well done, Jonathan,' to the great 
 scandal of some of my hearers." 
 
 *' But the truth was, he had no more care about what 
 was right or wrong, just or unjust, honorable or dis- 
 honorable than Jonathan, though his great abilities, 
 and the great stakes he played for, threw the knavery 
 into the shade." 
 
 *' Posterity will hardly believe the success and ex- 
 tent of that system of darkness which Bonaparte 
 spread over France, but it is so complete that even I, 
 who had been for so many years in contact with his 
 armies, and was now for months on his frontier, was 
 glad to glean from any precarious and humble sources, 
 some knowledge of the real state of the interior." 
 
 <' The best of all the publications (about Bonaparte), 
 is that of Baron Fain. All the dictations to Montho- 
 louj Gourgaud, and Las Casas, are of little real 
 
380 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 authority. They are what Bonaparte, after consider- 
 ation, thought it expedient to represent things to have 
 been, and not what they were. Any accurate reader 
 will find them to be made-up stories, full of contradic- 
 tions, but we who know the affairs of our time, know 
 that they are full of falsehoods." 
 
 napoleon's watch. 
 
 " Bonaparte's mind was, in its details, low and un- 
 gentlemanlike. I suppose the narrowness of his early 
 prospects and habits stuck to him; what we under- 
 stand by gentlemanlike feelings, he knew nothing at 
 all about ; I'll give you a curious instance." 
 
 *' I have a beautiful little watch, made by Breguet, 
 at Paris, with a map of Spain most admirably enameled 
 on the case. Sir Edward Paget bought it at Paris, and 
 gave it to me. What do you think the history of this 
 watch was — at least the history that Breguet told 
 Paget, and Paget told me? " 
 
 " Bonaparte had ordered it as a present to his 
 brother, the King of Spain, but when he heard of the 
 battle of Vittoria — he was then at Dresden, in the 
 midst of all the preparations and negotiations of the 
 armistice, and we would think sufficiently busy with 
 other battles — when he heard of the battle of Vitto- 
 ria, I say, he remembered the watch he had ordered 
 for one whom he saw would be king of Spain, and 
 with whom he was angry for the loss of the battle, and 
 he wrote from Dresden to countermand the watch, 
 and if it should be ready, to forbid its being sent. 
 
Wellington's opinion. 381 
 
 The best apology that one can make for this strange 
 littleness is, that he was offended with Joseph ; but, 
 even in that case, a gentleman would not have taken 
 the moment, when the poor devil had lost his chateaux 
 en Espagne to take away his watch also. 
 
 *' All those codicils to his will, in which he be- 
 queathed millions to the right and left, and, among 
 others, left a legacy to the fellow who was accused of 
 attempting to assassinate me; the property he really 
 had he had already made his disposition of for the 
 payment of all those other high-sounding legacies, 
 there was not the shadow of a fund. He might as well 
 have drawn bills for ten millions on that pump at Aid- 
 gate. (We had on our way driven past it. ) While he 
 was writing all these magnificent donations he knew 
 that they were all in the air, all a falsehood. For my 
 part, I can see no magnanimity in a lie, and I confess, 
 that I think one who could play such tricks but a 
 shabby fellow." 
 
 BITS OF WATERLOO. 
 
 We talked of Lamartine's description of Bonaparte's 
 weakness, and even cowardice, toward the close of 
 Waterloo. He said: — 
 
 *' Of course I could see nothing about it, but I can 
 hardly believe it. I think that, even with ordinary 
 men a great interest would overcome personal fear." 
 
 Croher. Perhaps it is as true as your having had 
 eight horses knocked down, or killed under you. 
 Copenhagen must have been a very old horse, when 
 
382 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 I saw him last at Strathfieldsaye, if you rode him at 
 Copenhagen. 
 
 Duke. Oh, no. He was not named from my having 
 ridden him at Copenhagen ; his dam was a blooded mare 
 which Tom Grosvenor had in the expedition to Copen- 
 hagen, and he called her foal by that name, so that he 
 must have been foaled after 1806. Grosvenor sold 
 him to Charles Stewart, now Londonderry, of whom, 
 when he left the peninsula, I bought him, and mounted 
 no other horse at Waterloo. 
 
 WELLINGTON ON THE ART OF WAR. 
 
 In coming to see me (as he had done the day but 
 one before September 2nd) he (the Duke) had chosen 
 to walk from the station to our house, and without 
 even a guide. He said he had found it a rough walk, 
 and the ground intersected in a way he had not ex- 
 pected, so 1 said to him: — 
 
 " It seems you forgot to guess what was at the other 
 side of the hill." 
 
 This was in allusion to a circumstance which had 
 occurred between him and me, some thirty years be- 
 fore. When traveling on the North road we amused 
 ourselves by guessing what sort of a country we should 
 find on the other side of the hills we drove up, and 
 when I expressed surprise at some extraordinary good 
 guesses he had made, he said : — 
 
 *< Why, I have spent all my life in trying to guess 
 what was at the other side of the hill." 
 
 I had reminded him of this, just as we were driv- 
 
THE ART OF WAR. 383 
 
 ing across the ravine that had impeded him, and he 
 turned around to Mrs. Croker to explain it to her, 
 adding; — 
 
 "All the business of war, and, indeed, all the busi- 
 ness of life, is to endeavor to find out what you don't 
 know by what you do; that's what I call 'guessing 
 what was at the other side of the hill ! ' " 
 
 He said the perfection of practical war was, to move 
 troops as steadily and coolly, on a field of battle, as 
 on a parade. " Soult's fault was that, though a great 
 strategist, he never seemed to know how to handle the 
 troops after the battle had begun." 
 
 I then told him what Guizot told me of Lannes hav- 
 ing said that " the greatest general was he whom the 
 cannonade only served to make him hear all the better, 
 and the smoke to make him see so much the more 
 clearly." {^^ he plus grand General etait celui qui la 
 cannonade faisait mieux entendre^ et que la fumee 
 faisait voir plus clair).^' 
 
 Duke. " Humph ! " (^A pause.) " That's only a 
 cleverer phrase for what I have been just saying — sang 
 froid — presence of mind 1 but that is not enough ! 
 The mind, besides being cool, must have the art of 
 knowing what is to be done, and how to do it." 
 
 In this connection it may not be amiss to say that 
 it was Wellington's opinion that " Massena was 
 the only one of Napoleon's Marshals who had any 
 pretensions to a comparison with him, and that 
 Bonaparte himself was, with his prestige, worth 40,000 
 men." 
 
384 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 "UP, GUARDS, AND AT EM. ' 
 
 " I certainly did not draw my sword. I may have 
 ordered, and I dare say, I did order, the charge of 
 the cavalrj^ and pointed out its direction ; but I did 
 not charge as a common trooper. 
 
 " I have at all times been in the habit of covering, 
 as much as possible, the troops exposed to the fire of 
 the cannon. I place them behind the top of rising 
 ground, and make them sit and lie down, the better to 
 cover them from the fire. 
 
 "After the fire of the enemy's cannon the enemy's 
 troops may have advanced, or a favorable opportunity 
 of attacking might have arrived. What I must have 
 said, and possibly did say, was : ' Stand up, guards,' 
 and then gave the commanding officers the order to 
 attack. My common practice in defensive position 
 was to attack the enemy at the very moment at which 
 he was about to .attack our troops." 
 
 NOW, " LOOK ON THIS PICTURE AND THEN ON THIS. 
 
 Says a recent issue of the Commercial- Gazette, of 
 Cincinnati: — 
 
 "About six years ago, the late Mr. Adelbert J. 
 Doisy de Yillargeunes, of Cincinnati's suburb. College 
 Hill, wrote some recollections of his long and eventful 
 life, and they have just been published in a neat book, 
 edited by Miss Louise J. Doisy, daughter of the auto- 
 biographer. Tt seems strange that a Cincinnatian, 
 w^ho passed away recently, should have fought against 
 
VAKIOUS OPINIONS. 385 
 
 Wellington in Spain, and have been personally ac- 
 quainted in manhood with Sir Walter Scott, before 
 the great. novelist was known to the world. 
 
 "Lieut. Doisy says truly, * that the mass of soldiers 
 in a great battle see but a small part of the evolutions, 
 and often do not understand the bearing of their own 
 movements executed by order.' ' Speaking for my- 
 self,' he remarks, ' I declare that after an engage- 
 ment worth the appellation of a battle, I have 
 invariably learned the particulars of it two or three 
 days later from the bulletins of headquarters.' 
 
 Lieut. Doisy, speaking of having been the guest of 
 Sir Walter Scott, on two or three occasions, at Melrose 
 Abbey, says ; — 
 
 " The general tenor of the conversation is fixed 
 immutably in my remembrance. Our leading topic 
 was not general politics, but minute details connected 
 with the French army, and, above all, traits and anec- 
 dotes respecting Napoleon, seemed to have an absorb- 
 ing interest for our host, who, we remarked, incessantly 
 contrived to lead back the conversation to the subject, 
 if it happened to have diverged from it. As may be 
 imagined, we took care to say nothing unfavorable to 
 the character and honor of our beloved Emperor. 
 Little did we suspect that our host was then preparing 
 a work, published ten years later, under the title of 
 'A Life of Napoleon Bonaparte.' " 
 
 '' In this unfair production, which is a stain on the 
 name of its otherwise illustrious author. Sir Walter 
 Scott, relates anecdotes and circumstances connected 
 
 25 
 
386 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 with the Emperor, many of which were communicated 
 to him by us, but taking care to accompany each recital 
 with sarcastic innuendoes and self -invented motives of 
 action, derogatory to the honor of Napoleon." 
 
 Lieutenant Doisy preserved throughout life a warm 
 affection for Napoleon Bonaparte. "It often hap- 
 pened," he writes, "that sudden acclamations of 
 * Vive V Empereur ' stirred the humors of our bivouac 
 fires. This often occurred from the enthusiasm of 
 the soldiers at the recital of some trait in the life of 
 their idolized chief. The strict sense of justice, the 
 generosity of Napoleon toward those who had served 
 well, or toward the families of those who had fallen ; 
 his severe surveillance over the conduct of contractors 
 for the supply of the troops, the commanding influence 
 which he unaffectedly exerted over his most distin- 
 guished generals ; all these aroused the enthusiasm of 
 our soldiers at the mere recital of some agreeable trait 
 in the acts o^ their idol.'* 
 
 I do not know that I can conclude this imperfect 
 sketch of Waterloo, in any better manner than by let- 
 ting Wellington assume the character of Brutus, and 
 Napoleon that of Cassius, in their famous quarrel in 
 the play of " Julius Cassar: " — 
 
 Cassius. Brutus, bay not me ; I'll not endure it. 
 You forget yourself to hedge me in ; I am a soldier, I ; 
 older in practice, abler than yourself to make condi- 
 tions. 
 
 Brutus. Go to; You're not, Cassius. 
 
 Cassius. Is it come to this ? 
 
NAPOLEON LIKENED TO CASSIUS. 387 
 
 Brutus. You say, you are a better soldier. Let it 
 appear so; make your vaunting true, and it shall 
 please me well ; for mine own part, I shall be glad to 
 learn of noble men. 
 
 Cassius. You wrong me every way. You wrong 
 me, Brutus ; I said an elder soldier, not a better. Did 
 I say, better? 
 
 Brutus. If you did, I care not. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 ANTWEEP TO LONDON. 
 
 the next morning, August 13th, we took the train for 
 Antwerp, which is only distant about an hour an 
 a half by rail from Brussels, where we spent the day in 
 " doing " the picture galleries, etc., and went on board 
 the steamer Avilonat five p. m., for our voyage across 
 the North Sea on our return to England, and then we 
 had seen the last of the continent of Europe, most of 
 us, no doubt, forever. 
 
 There is not much to be seen in the city of Antwerp 
 to amuse and instruct the tourist in comparison with 
 many other of the cities of the Continent, which 
 we had visited; but, nevertheless, there are several 
 things to be seen here worth noting, which I shall 
 
388 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 proceed to do, in order that I may not omit some men- 
 tion, at least, of any place which we have visited, 
 and as Eubens, the prince of Flemish painters, lived 
 here, and his masterpiece, the *' Descent from the 
 Cross," is to be seen here in a rather fine old cathe- 
 dral, we will give the city a passing notice at any 
 rate. 
 
 The city of Antwerp has about 180,000 inhabitants, 
 and was founded as early as the seventh century. It 
 is the principal seaport of Belgium, and has an exten- 
 sive traffic with Great Britain and Germany. It is sit- 
 uated on the river Scheldt, about sixty miles from the 
 North Sea, which is here about twelve miles wide, and 
 at high tide is thirty feet deep, thus allowing ships of 
 the largest tonnage to come up to the magnificent docks 
 of the city, which, though, of course, much less in ex- 
 tent than those of Liverpool, will compare favorably 
 with them. 
 
 Its highest period of prosperity was in the six- 
 teenth century, when it is said that the city contained 
 125,000 inhabitants, and when thousands of vessels 
 lay in the Scheldt at one time, and a hundred or more 
 would arrive and depart daily. 
 
 About the close of the fifteenth century, under the 
 celebrated Emperor, Charles V., Antwerp was, per- 
 haps the most prosperous and wealthy city on the Con- 
 tinent, surpassing even Yenice itself, "the Queen of 
 the Adriatic." 
 
 Great fairs were held here which attracted merchants 
 from all parts of the civilized world. At this time 
 
THE CITY OF ANTWEEP. 389 
 
 more than a thousand commercial firms had established 
 themselves in this ancient Flemish city. 
 
 However, the Spanish Inquisition in the sixteenth 
 century, and the cruelties of the infamous Duke of 
 Alva had a woful effect on the city of Antwerp, which, 
 during the wars of the Low Countries, drove many 
 thousands of her best citizens to seek refuge in Eng- 
 land, where they established silk factories, and proved 
 an invaluable addition to English commerce. 
 
 In 1576 the city was pillaged by the cruel and licen- 
 tious Spanish soldiery and lost 7,000 of its inhabitants 
 by fire and sword. 
 
 It afterwards suffered severely during a siege of 
 fourteen months, followed by its capture by Duke 
 Alexander of Parma in 1585, when the population was 
 reduced to 85,000, and in 1589 the population had 
 dwindled away to 55,000. 
 
 In August, 1794, the French obtained possession of 
 Antwerp, re-opened the navigation of the Scheldt, and 
 dismantled the forts erected by the Dutch at the mouth 
 of the river, which they had erected to further injure 
 the Flemish by preventing their vessels from navigat- 
 ing the Scheldt. 
 
 Napoleon caused a harbor and new quays to be con- 
 structed between the years 1804-13, at a cost of 
 $3,000,000 in consequence of a decree which consti- 
 tuted Antwerp the principal naval station of the north- 
 west coast of France. 
 
 This, however, was not the only reason for this step. 
 His mighty genius had conceived the vast and hazard- 
 
390 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 ous design of invading England, and as Boulogne had 
 not harbor room sufficient to hold the fleet which would 
 be necessary for that gigantic project, he cast about 
 him for another convenient harbor, and finding Ant- 
 werp both convenient to England, and suited by its 
 natural advantages for a base of operations, he chose 
 this city for that purpose. 
 
 After the bombardment of the citadel in 1830, and 
 after the memorable siege of 1832, the unfortunate city 
 presented a scene of frightful desolation, and it was 
 many years before she began to recover from these 
 calamities. 
 
 In 1832 the city was occupied by the Dutch General 
 Chasse, at the head of 5,000 men, and was besieged 
 by a French army of 55,000 men, commanded by Mar- 
 shal Gerard, who endeavored to compel the Dutch to 
 evacuate Belgium entirely, in accordance with the 
 Treaty of London of November 15, 1831. 
 
 The siege was directed by Gen. Haxo, who was the 
 same artillery officer who was sent out by Napoleon, on 
 the fatal morning of Waterloo, to reconnoitre the 
 enemy's front, but who, by some fatality, was unable 
 to discover the enemy's masked battery of sixty guns 
 directly in their center, and which blunder had so much 
 to do with the issue of that celebrated battle. 
 
 Chasse held out for nearly a month, and only capitu- 
 lated when the fort was almost reduced to a heap of 
 ruins. 
 
 Antwerp is the principal arsenal of the kingdom of 
 Belgium, and one of the strongest fortresses in Europe. 
 
FLEMISH ART. 391 
 
 Since 1859 a number of advanced works have been 
 constructed on modern principles, and the city and 
 river are defended by broad and massive ramparts up- 
 wards of twelve miles in length, and at about this dis- 
 tance from the city are two strong fortresses, one on 
 either bank of the river, which effectually command the 
 passage. It is calculated that it would require an 
 army of 170,000 men to besiege it effectually, and 
 part of the environs can be laid under water, which 
 has, from time immemorial, been one of the methods 
 adopted in the Low Countries of driving out an invad- 
 ing army, by cutting the dikes and flooding the country. 
 
 It is said that the Antwerp school of painting held a 
 subordinate rank during the earlier period of Flemish 
 art, and was greatly surpassed by those of Bruges and 
 Ghent. But as these cities gradually lost their artis- 
 tic, as well as their commercial importance, the pros- 
 perity of Antwerp increased rapidly, and when she at 
 length attained the enviable distinction of being one 
 of the wealthiest cities in the world, she also, in the 
 opinion of competent critics, became a cradle of art 
 second, perhaps, to none but Florence. 
 
 During this Golden Age of Antwerp, flourished 
 'Rubens facile pt'inceps, then Van Dyck, Teniers, Quen- 
 tin, Matsys, Jordaens, De Craeyer, Sighers, Snyders, 
 and numerous other artists of less note aad distinc- 
 tion. 
 
 Antwerp, having a population almost exclusively 
 Flemish, resembles a Dutch or German city in many 
 characteristics, affording as complete a contrast to 
 
392 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Brussels, the capital, only fifty or sixty miles away, the 
 latter being French to the core, apparently, as can well 
 be imagined. 
 
 The numerous masterpieces of painting which it 
 possesses afford, it is said, one of the best evidences 
 of its mediaeval prosperity. 
 
 The fascinating influence of Rubens, of which we 
 had already seen many beautiful specimens in the 
 Louvre at Paris, can not be properly appreciated with- 
 out a visit to Antwerp, where his finest works are pre- 
 served. 
 
 Rubens, the first of Flemish painters, who was en- 
 nobled by Philip IV. of Spain, and knighted by 
 Charles I. of England, lived at Antwerp in a style of 
 great magnificence, and possessed an extensive, and 
 very valuable collection of works of art. A portion 
 of this collection, sold after his death, is said to have 
 realized $100,000. 
 
 Van Dyck, who, perhaps, ranks next to Rubens, was 
 born in 1599, and was a pupil of Rubens, about 1615. 
 In 1623, he studied in Italy, and finally reached great 
 eminence as a portrait painter, but his famous career 
 was cut short by an untimely death at the age of forty- 
 two. He also was knighted by Charles I. 
 
 David Teniers, "the younger," so-called, because 
 more famous than his father, also a painter, ranks 
 probably as third in this glorious galaxy of artists, 
 and was appointed court painter, by the Arch-Duke 
 Leopold William, Stadth older of the Netherlands, and 
 he also enjoyed a high reputation in other cities of 
 
FLEMISH MASTERS. 393 
 
 Europe. After an industrious and highly successful 
 career, he died at the advanced age of eighty-four, 
 outliving Eubens twenty years, and living twice as 
 long as Teniers. 
 
 In our own times, Antwerp has made a vigorous 
 effort to retain the artistic pre-eminence which it so 
 proudly maintained during the seventeenth century ; 
 and it is said, by those conversant with the subject, 
 that the revival of art which took place towards the 
 end of the first quarter of the present century (which 
 might perhaps be termed, with perfect propriety, the 
 " second Renaissance," so to speak "), took its rise in 
 Antwerp. 
 
 The most noted of the painters, who showed great 
 zeal in the return to the early Flemish school of art, 
 was Hendrik Leys, who lived from 1815 to 1869, and 
 is known as the founder of the *' Archaic school." 
 
 It is said, of this artist, that he not only gave the 
 preference to the subjects used in the fifteenth and six- 
 teenth centuries, but that he also designed, painted, 
 and grouped in precisely the same style as the painters 
 of that epoch. The resemblance of these pictures to 
 the canvases of the Middle Ages is said to be strik- 
 ing. 
 
 The Dutch painter. Alma Tadema, who is now settled 
 in London, where he is reaping both fame and fortune, 
 was a pupil of Leys, and is perhaps the most famous 
 living exponent of the " Archaic style," which is find- 
 ing many admirers. 
 
 The day our party spent at Antwerp was a fete day 
 
394 A KNiaHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 in honor of Henry Flamande, a Flemish poet of some 
 note, and the principal streets were thronged with 
 thousands of people, the buildings were gaily deco- 
 rated, and there was quite a fine and lengthy proces- 
 sion, with numerous bands of music, which passed 
 directly by the hotel at which our party were stopping. 
 Of course, we directed our steps at once to the 
 cathedral, near which is a public square, called the 
 Place Verte, which is adorned by a statue of Rubens 
 in bronze. It was erected in 1840, the figure being 
 thirteen feet in height, and the pedestal about twenty 
 feet. The statue has, at its feet, scrolls and books, 
 also the brush, palette and hat, which are said to be 
 allusions to the various pursuits of the artist, as a dip- 
 lomatist and statesman, as well as a painter. 
 
 The Cathedral of Notre Dame, is the largest and 
 most beautiful Gothic church in the Low Countries, 
 and is like most others we had seen in Europe, in the 
 favorite form of the Latin cross, with triple aisles, and 
 dates back to 1352. The nave of the church is about 
 400 feet in length, its width (except at the transept), 
 is about 175 feet, and at the transept about 225 feet, 
 and the height about 130 feet. The vaulting is sup- 
 ported by 125 pillars, which makes the interior view 
 quite imposing. Its area is about 70,000 square feet, 
 while that of Cologne Cathedral is 87,000 square feet, 
 St. Paul's in London, 109,000, and that of St. Peter's 
 at Rome, 212,000 square feet. The view from the 
 tower, which is 402 feet high, is said to be very fine; 
 but as we were pressed for time, I believe that none 
 
RUBENS' MASTERPIECE. 395 
 
 of our party made the ascent. It is said that 514 
 steps lead to the first gallery, and 108 more to the sec- 
 ond and highest. 
 
 The spire at the top of the tower dates from 1592, 
 The chimes found in this tower are among the finest 
 in Belgium, consisting of ninety bells, the smallest of 
 which is said to be only fifteen inches in circumference, 
 while the largest, which was cast in 1507, weighs eight 
 tons. 
 
 The south tower has only reached 113 feet of its pro- 
 jected height. They say that Charles V. , before whom 
 Luther underwent his terrific ordeal at Worms, used 
 to say that this elegant specimen of Gothic architec- 
 ture ought to be preserved in a case, and Napoleon is 
 said to have compared it to a piece of Mechlin lace. 
 
 Of course, as soon as you enter the south transept, 
 which is nearest the Place Verte, or public square, above 
 referred to, you hasten to feast your eyes uponEubens' 
 masterpiece, the " Descent from the Cross," which 
 depicts so graphically, and yet so piteously, the feat- 
 ures of the dead Savior of mankind, and which, if I 
 may be pardoned for using a kind of Hibernianism on 
 the subject, *« depicts death to the very life," so to 
 speak. This picture, like many you see in Europe has 
 wings or companion pictures, which fold over the cen- 
 tral picture, and thus serve as a covering for it. On 
 the inside of the wings, are the Salutation and the Pres- 
 entation in the Temple, and on the outside St. Christo- 
 pher carrying the infant Savior, and a Hermit. The 
 Virgin Mary in a blue robe, and the figure with a 
 
396 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 basket in the wings, are portraits of the master's first 
 wife and daughter respectively, and by some it is under- 
 stood that Eubens himself is one of the principal fig- 
 ures in this remarkable picture. 
 
 A competent and Judicious critic says of this master- 
 piece that " the arrangement of the whole is most mas- 
 terly and Judicious, the figures not too ponderous and 
 the coloring rich and harmonious, while a degree of 
 sentiment is not wanting, so that this picture is well 
 calculated to exhibit Rubens' wonderful genius in the 
 most favorable light." 
 
 " The Elevation of the Cross," which is regarded by 
 the critics as inferior is, nevertheless, a magnificent 
 work. The scene represented is much fuller of life 
 and animation than the other, but in its general effect 
 and execution falls short of the "Descent from the 
 Cross." 
 
 There is another picture by Rubens, called the As- 
 sumption, which ranksnext to those two famous ones, 
 but is far behind them, either in design or execution. 
 The Virgin, singulafly enough, represented by Rubens' 
 wife in this case, is depicted among the clouds, sur- 
 rounded by an angelic choir, below whom figure the 
 twelve Apostles and others. 
 
 Some humorous critic, but whom I know not, has 
 an amusing, though, perhaps, a trifle irreverent criti- 
 cism, of this picture, which I will give below, and here 
 end my account of the Cathedral, which contains many 
 other pictures of note, but which I have neither time 
 nor space to speak of any further. 
 
THE MUSEUM. 397 
 
 *'Fat Mrs. Rubens," says the rather good-natured 
 critic, "is planted as firmly and comfortably among 
 the clouds, as if in an easy chair, gazing with phleg- 
 matic composure on the wondrous scene, which she 
 witnesses in her aerial flight, and betraying not the 
 faintest symptom of ecstacy or emotion. Ought she 
 not to be ashamed to sit there in her flimsy attire, and 
 represent a goddess — and a Virgin too ? ' ' 
 
 You must not fail to see, near the door of the tower 
 the old well, protected by a wonderful canopy of iron 
 hammered out by the famous hand of Quentin Matsys, 
 the blacksmith-painter of Antwerp. There is a little 
 romance connected with Quentin Matsys, which says that 
 to win the daughter of an Antwerp artist he renounced 
 his skillful hammer, and took up the brush and palette, 
 whereby he became famous, as well as won the choice 
 of his heart. 
 
 The next and chief remaining place of interest, in 
 Antwerp, is the Museum, which is an exclusive picture 
 gallery established in the church of the old Franciscan 
 monastery, the rooms of which are now occupied by the 
 "Academy of the Fine Arts," and which is open all 
 the year round, admission free. Just before you enter 
 the garden, in which the old monastery, now the mu- 
 seum, is situated, is a fine bronze statue of Van Dyck. 
 There are said to be about 650 pictures here, collected 
 from the suppressed monasteries, and churches of Ant- 
 werp, which are well classified and arranged in accord- 
 ance with the different schools of Flemish art. 
 Rubens has twenty-two pictures in one collection. 
 
398 , A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Soon after you pass into the entrance hall, you no- 
 tice several busts of former members of the Academy. 
 The most striking piece of statuary to be seen here is 
 a colossal marble bust of Rubens erected in 1877, on a 
 lofty bronze base, on the three-hundredth anniversary 
 of the birth of the great artist. A remarkable scene 
 bursts upon the eye as soon as you have entered the 
 entrance hall, when you behold the magnificent fres- 
 coes by the artist Keyser, who took his subjects from 
 the history of the city of Antwerp, but of which you 
 obtain the best view from the top of the staircase, 
 which conducts the spectator to the grand salon, 
 where are to be found the masterpieces of Flemish art. 
 
 The principal painting over the entrance, and the 
 large scenes on the right and left wall, contain the 
 whole of the Antwerp artists, fifty-two in the first 
 fresco, and forty-two in each of the last two, making 
 the total number of Flemish artists, 136, which will 
 give some idea of the vast extent and variety of Flem- 
 ish art, from the number of artists engaged in painting 
 the pictures of that school. 
 
 I shall not say much in regard to this famous collec- 
 tion, as this sketch of Antwerp has gone far beyond 
 the limits I at first intended, and has required the con- 
 sultation of numerous authorities, but I shall speak of 
 one picture, the Crucifixion, by Rubens, but which is 
 considered by many his masterpiece, instead of the 
 "Descent from the Cross," and, therefore, I mention 
 this famous picture more at length. This picture is said 
 to be remarkable for dramatic effect, and is not want- 
 
THE PANOEAMA, 399 
 
 ing in sentiment. Longinus, the Roman officer, is seen 
 mounted on a grey horse, piercing the side of the 
 Savior with a lance. The penitent thief is seen, in- 
 voking the Savior, for the last time, who says to him, 
 "this night shalt thou be with me in Paradise." 
 Around the foot of the Cross are grouped various fig- 
 ures, all painted with remarkable power and fidelity, 
 and it is no great wonder that many should compare 
 this great picture favorably with the ' ' Descent from 
 the Cross." 
 
 This finished up our visit to Antwerp, with the ex- 
 ception of the visit to the panorama of Waterloo, which 
 fixed more indelibly in our minds the salient features 
 of the bloody scene, whose historic ground we had 
 trodden only the day before. We saw Bonaparte sit- 
 ting calmly on his white horse, surveying the scene of 
 carnage through his field-glass, near him, the perfidious 
 Lacoste, who caused the disaster of the sunken road ; 
 the gallant Ney, bareheaded, and waving his sword 
 proudly aloft while leading the charge which met such 
 a terrible mishap in the hollow way ; Wellington, sitting 
 on his horse, cool and imperturbable, amongst the 
 solid squares of his devoted English Guards, Hougo- 
 mont and La Haye afire in the distance, the ground 
 strewn with the dead, among them many Scotch High- 
 landers in their picturesque uniforms, the redness of 
 their scarlet plaids seeming to vie with the bloody 
 scenes around them ; the French cavalry, attempting to 
 pierce the solid squares of the Allies, or riding around 
 them in hot defiance; all this presented a spectacle 
 
400 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 never to be forgotten. I was so much wrapped up in 
 my surroundings, that I was the last one of our party 
 to leave the place. 
 
 About 4 p. m. we left the hotel for the steamer, 
 which was to take us back to England. We found our 
 vessel small and uncomfortable, bjit the sea was as 
 smooth as a mill pond, and we had none of the trouble 
 which the party, who crossed from London direct, met 
 with, they having given us, at Interlaken, graphic de- 
 scriptions of what they suffered in the passage of the 
 North Sea, which is said to be noted for its roughness. 
 They predicted dreadful things for us the Sunday we 
 parted with them at Interlaken ; but, luckily, all their 
 dreadful predictions came to naught. I arose early 
 the next morning, and had the pleasure of seeing the 
 sun rise out of the North Sea, a sight which was most 
 beautiful, and which I shall not soon forget. 
 
 We landed at Harwich about seven o'clock a. m., 
 and right glad was I to get back to old England, where 
 I could hear on every hand the vernacular of my native 
 land, instead of the barbarous and unknown jargon, 
 to which we had been subjected for the past few weeks. 
 After a short delay, taken up in inspecting our baggage, 
 we found ourselves on the way up to London, where 
 we arrived about noon, and I soon found myself once 
 more comfortably installed at the Midland Grand 
 Hotel, where I expected to stay for the next few days, 
 before starting down to Scotland. 
 
 During these latter days I saw a great many things, 
 which I had neither time nor opportunity to see on my 
 
THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 401 
 
 first visit to the great metropolis a few weeks earlier, 
 among which were trips to Hampton Court and Wind- 
 sor Castle, visits to the British Museum, and also the 
 smaller one in Kensington, which is, I think, much more 
 interesting to the ordinary observer than the British 
 Museum, the Museum of Sir John Soane, which, though 
 small, is well worthy of a visit ; the Albert Memorial, 
 the National Fisheries Exposition, which was then in 
 full blast, rides on the underground railways, trips on 
 the fussy little steamboats, on the Thames, with a last 
 visit to Westminster Abbey and the old Tower. All 
 these things, and mores, kept me busily engaged during 
 my stay there, of which I shall now speak more in 
 detail. 
 
 The British Museum was the first place I visited 
 after I had gotten fairly installed, for the second time, 
 at the Midland^ Grand Hotel, and certainly there is 
 enough there to interest the antiquarian and the 
 scientist for weeks and months; but, as I said above, 
 aside from the collection of famous autographs, and 
 historical and literary curiosities, which is to be found 
 there, one must have a spice of the antiquarian and 
 scientist combined, and perhaps a little more, to begin 
 to do justice to that vast and costly collection of 
 antique and mediaeval curiosities. 
 
 The buildings which contain this vast collection 
 cover over seven acres of ground, and cost more than 
 $5,000,000, and their contents are, of course, simply 
 invaluable, and totally incalculable from any financial 
 standpoint. You may obtain some idea of the varied 
 
 26 
 
402 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 contents of this, the most famous thesaurus, or treasure 
 house, of this kind in the world, from the fact that it 
 embraces eleven different departments : mineralogy, 
 palaeontology, zoology, prints and drawings, botany, 
 coins and medals, British mediaeval antiquities, Greek 
 and Roman antiquities, Oriental antiquities, and 
 printed books and manuscripts. 
 
 The library contains the enormous number of 
 1,300,000 volumes, acquired partly by copyright, 
 partly by purchase, and partly by donation or bequest, 
 and is being increased at the rate of 20,000 volumes a 
 year, as there is a law in force in England dating from 
 1814, which requires that a copy of every book which 
 is printed in the United Kingdom shall be deposited in 
 the British Museum. In this library are said to be 
 1,700 different editions of the Bible, and an edition of 
 the Koran, or Bible of Mahomet, written in gold, and 
 said to be about nine centuries old. They have a very 
 fine and large reading-room, which has ample accom- 
 modations for several hundred readers, which, however 
 ordinarily can only be made use of by some person 
 eighteen years of age, upon the recommendation of 
 some person of standing or note in the city of London. 
 However, I stepped up to the door-keeper and informed 
 him that I was an American, and would like to see the 
 reading-room, whereupon he politely opened the door 
 and told me to pass in, which I did, and looked around 
 for some little time. No noise of any kind is allowed 
 within these sacred recesses, and it seemed, indeed, well 
 calculated as a retreat for the philosopher and the 
 
LIBRARY ROOMS. 403 
 
 student, although I noticed people apparently of all 
 ages and all classes making use of the advantages 
 afforded by this noble collection. 
 
 In the rooms which contain the Granville and the 
 King's libraries, fourteen table cases are arranged for 
 the exhibition of some of the most interesting objects 
 in the library. First you are attracted by the *' Block 
 Books," or books printed on wooden blocks, which 
 immediately preceded the invention of printing with 
 movable metal types, and which, in all probability, led 
 to the latter invention. They have there the first 
 printed book — the great Bible, printed at Mentz, by 
 Gutenberg and Faust, and believed to have been finished 
 in the year 1455, though perhaps begun at an earlier 
 date. There are also to be seen productions of the 
 printing press in Italy, France, the Low Countries, 
 and England, many of these having cuts beautifully 
 illuminated and colored by hand. The wood-cuts in 
 many of these books are exceedingly beautiful. These 
 cases give you some idea of the history of the " art 
 preservative of arts," from its swaddling infancy to 
 the full and glorious fruition of the nineteenth cen- 
 tury, and enable you more and more to appreciate this 
 invention, which has in truth revolutionized the world. 
 
 The first case of autographs in the Grenville Library 
 contains letters sealed with the sign manual of four 
 men of remarkable prominence in the religious world, 
 Luther, Calvin, Melancthon and Erasmus, of which 
 Luther's is the most remarkable, as it touches upon 
 various texts quoted in favor of purgatory, and as as- 
 
404 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 sertinff that a disbelief in this favorite doctrine of the 
 Catholic Church is no proof of heresy. The second 
 frame contains, among others, letters with the signature 
 of Thomas Cranmer, Archbishop of Canterbury, who 
 was burned at the stake by bloody Mary, Cardinal 
 Wolsey, John Knox, Sir Philip Sidney, the favorite of 
 Queen Elizabeth, and others of less note. The next 
 one contains the autograph of the infamous Lord 
 Bacon, *' greatest, wisest, meanest of mankind," of 
 Prince* Rupert, the fiery chief tain of the Cavaliers, and 
 nephew of King Charles I., *' the blessed martyr; " 
 William Penn, Sir Christopher Wren, the grand old 
 Freemason and architect of St. Paul's Cathedral; Sir 
 Isaac Newton, and the celebrated General John 
 Churchill, Duke of Marlborough. 
 
 The next case contains autographs of the painters, 
 Michael Angelo, Albert Durer, Eubens, Rembrandt, 
 and Van Dyck. 
 
 Next we see the autograph of Corneille, the great 
 French dramatist, who was the grandfather of the 
 heroic martyr, Charlotte Cordaj^, who stabbed the 
 infamous and brutal Marat in his bath, that the Revo- 
 lution might cease to deluge France in torrents of 
 human blood, Boileau, Voltaire, Jonathan Swift, the 
 author of Gulliver's Travels ; Addison, the famous 
 essayist and author of the Spectator; Dry den, the 
 poet, and Hogarth the artist. 
 
 Among modern autographs, are those of William 
 Pitt, Charles James Fox, Edmund Burke, our own 
 Washington and Dr. Franklin, Lord Byron, the 
 
NOTED AUTOGRAPHS. 405 
 
 Duke of Wellington, who caused Napoleon to «' pale his 
 ineffectual fires " forever at Waterloo, and Lord 
 Nelson, the hero of the Nile and Trafalgar, who did not 
 forget to write to Lady Hamilton on the eve of that 
 glorious victory, which forever dispelled Bonaparte's 
 hopes of the invasion of England, but which letter the 
 gallant Nelson was destined never to finish. 
 
 Near this unfinished letter of Lord Nelson is a small 
 box made from a splinter of the Victory, Nelson's flag 
 ship, which was knocked off by a shot in the battle of 
 Trafalgar, and containing a portion of Nelson's hair. 
 
 Among the autographs of English and foreign sov- 
 ereigns, are those of Katherine of Aragon, and Anne 
 Boleyn, the innocent victims of the cruel Henry VHI. ; 
 Lady Jane Grey, the rival of Bloody Mary by whom 
 she and her husband, Lord Guilford Dudley, were 
 beheaded; of Queen Elizabeth; two letters of Mary 
 Queen of Scots, one of them praying for mercy on 
 the part of Queen Elizabeth during the weary nineteen 
 years of Queen Mary's imprisonment, ending with her 
 death on the scaffold at Fotheringay Castle ; of James 
 I., Charles I., and his cruel Judge, Oliver Cromwell, 
 and of Charles H., " the merry monarch " 
 
 There are many other autographs of great historic 
 interest, but these must suffice, with the exception of 
 two letters written by Napoleon the Great, one, when 
 he was only an humble officer of artillery, the other in 
 1805, when he was at the height of his glory, as the 
 Emperor of the French, and almost the conqueror of 
 the world. 
 
406 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Among the miscellaneous curiosities, I beheld with 
 the greatest interest, the photograph of the original 
 mortgage deed by which "William Shakespeare of 
 Stratford upon Avon, Gentleman," leased to Henry 
 Walker, citizen of London, a dwelling house, of the 
 date of March 11, 1613, three years before the poet's 
 death. 
 
 Here, also, is a portion of the manuscript of Grey's 
 Church-yard Elegy, and the original agreement for the 
 sale of Milton's Paradise Lost, to Samuel Lymans, 
 printer, which was $25 down, and $25 when 1,300 
 copies of the first edition should have been sold, and 
 so on for successive editions. The first edition was 
 not exhausted for seven years, and in 1690, Milton's 
 widow sold all her interest in this grand poem for 
 
 Talent, certainly, in those days, did not meet with 
 such sudden recognition as it seems to in modern 
 times, and well it is for the guild of modern authors 
 that such is not now the case, for certainly, 
 as a precedent, the financial success of Milton 
 even with all his splendid and mighty genius, is not 
 calculated to enthuse the literary tyro of the nine- 
 teenth century. 
 
 Among other interesting souvenirs here, are a pen 
 sketch of the battle of the Nile, drawn by Lord Nelson 
 with his left hand, his only one ; a list, in the handwrit- 
 ing of Lord Wellington, of the cavalry under his com- 
 mand just before Waterloo ; the very prayer-book used 
 by Lady Jane Grey on the scafibkl ; the original will, 
 
PRINTS AND DRAWINGS. 407 
 
 in French, of Mary Queen of Scots ; a memorandum- 
 book of James, Duke of Monmouth, son of Charles 
 II, and Lucy Walters, who was beheaded by his uncle. 
 King James II., on account of the Monmouth Eebellion ; 
 a volume written by Frederick the Gteat of Prussia, 
 among its contents a paper entitled ''Reflections 
 on the Military Talents of Charles XII., King of 
 Sweden;" a volume of the original draft of Pope's 
 translations of the Iliad and Odyssey ; an autobiography 
 of Robert Burns ; manuscript of Sir Walter Scott's 
 novel of Kenilworth, and the autograph draft of the last 
 chapter of Lord Macaulay's incomparable and elo- 
 quent history of England. 
 
 These are only a few of the many hundreds of noted 
 autographs and curiosities to be seen in this depart- 
 ment. 
 
 The exhibition of prints and drawings occupy fifty- 
 four screens, twenty of which are political cartoons in 
 the Kings' Library and are well worth seeing, but like 
 many of the jokes in Punchy the political cartoons are 
 hardly fully understood and appreciated by an Ameri- 
 can, with his usual limited knowledge of English poli- 
 tics. 
 
 The cartoons were drawn by John Doyle, a noted 
 English caricaturist, who was, to that country, what 
 Thomas Nast is to America to-day, and number in all 
 about 600 sketches, many of which are very laughable 
 and amusing, but Others, as I said above, are entirely 
 thrown away on the average American, for reasons 
 which I have suggested. 
 
408 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 You, however, only see about 300 of these cartoons, 
 as they are drawn on both sides. The remaining thirty 
 screens contain various maps, plans, and views of 
 the city of London. 
 
 The Egyptian Gallery', with its wealth of antiquities 
 from that ancient and historic land; the Assyrian 
 Galleries with their precious curiosities, brought from 
 ancient Nineveh, the Roman and Grecian Galleries where 
 ancient sculptures reign supreme, the names of the 
 artists being hidden in remote antiquity; the Elgin 
 marbles, taken from the Parthenon at Athens ; the Vase 
 rooms, the Bronze room, in short, the thousand and one 
 attractions of this wondrous collection are absolutely 
 beyond my pen, and so I Jeave them untouched, and 
 the reader, if any I have, must content himself with 
 only the faint suggestion of their glories, as I propose 
 to stop this brief and defective sketch here, for 
 the subject is undoubtedly too deep for me to pursue it 
 any farther. 
 
 A pleasant trip to Hampton Court, on the river 
 Thames, twenty miles above London, comes next in 
 order, and afforded an agreeable contrast to the dry- 
 as-dust galleries of the British Museum filled with 
 their thousandfold relics of antiquity. 
 
 I had at first thought of going by boat on the Thames, 
 but a gentleman, with whom I met, advised me not to 
 risk the uncertainties of the river, and when I arrived 
 there by rail, and saw how small the river was at that 
 point, I was very glaH, indeed, that I had taken his 
 kindly advice, for it presented a most wonderful con- 
 
HAMPTON COURT. 409 
 
 trast to the stream which you see at London, which is 
 constantly crowded with all manner of craft. 
 
 This magnificent old palace, which was built by Car- 
 dinal Wolsey and presented by him, though it is said 
 very much against his will, to King Henry VIII., is a 
 most delightful resort, only twenty miles from London, 
 and is visited by hundreds of thousands of people 
 every year. One day last August, 1883, which is 
 known as "Bank Holiday," I saw it stated in the 
 London papers that it was estimated that 50,000 people 
 visited Hampton Court that day. 
 
 There is no admission charged, and the beautiful 
 palace and grounds are open to the public all the year 
 round. 
 
 It is not now used as a royal residence, but is occu- 
 pied by decrepit pensioners of the British Govern- 
 ment, who here find in their old age a beautiful retreat 
 provided for them by the generosity of the English 
 Government. 
 
 The palace, which covers about eight acres of ground, 
 became King Henry's in 1526, and you see all over 
 the magnificent pile of buildings the royal monogram 
 of this uxorious and cruel old king. 
 
 This palace was the favorite residence of King 
 William the HI. (the Prince of Orange), and he had 
 its beautiful lawns and flower gardens laid out in the . 
 Dutch fashion, which they retain to this day, and near 
 here, it was that he was killed by a fall froin his 
 horse. 
 
 Many of the sovereigns of England have lived here, 
 
410 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 among whom may be mentioned Charles II., James 
 II., and George II., Charles II., spending his time 
 here with his court during the awful plague of 1666, 
 when one hundred thousand people died in the city 
 of London, although that most veracious chronicler, 
 Daniel Defoe, who wrote the immortal *' Robin- 
 son Crusoe," says that during that awful time the 
 court gaily disported themselves at Oxford. Oliver 
 Cromwell had one daughter to die here, and one to 
 marry here, and here it was that Henry VIII., listened 
 for the boom of the cannon which was to announce 
 the death of Queen Anne Boleyn, and here it was that 
 he took to wife Catherine Parr, making his sixth mar- 
 riage. 
 
 Here King Edward VI. , was born, and here it was he 
 lived during a portion of his reign, and here Bloody 
 Mary spent her honeymoon, for even she, wicked as 
 she was, tasted of the sweets of married life. So 
 Hampton Court is indissolubly blended with the his- 
 tory of England's kings. 
 
 After passing through a fine old gateway, and cross- 
 ing a court-yard, you enter the picture galleries, 
 which are, of course, the crowning glory of Hampton 
 Court, by way of the King's Grand Staircase, as it is 
 called, and the scene is truly dazzling. 
 
 These grand frescoes were painted in the French style 
 by Verrio, a painter, who was brought from France by 
 Charles II., the "merry monarch," and the famous 
 Horace Walpole says of the whole effect that "it is 
 painted so ill that it seems as if Verrio had spoiled it on 
 
THE GUARD CHAMBER. 411 
 
 principle; " but to me, who was however no connois- 
 seur of such things, it seemed to be one of the most 
 attractive pieces of frescoing I had yet anywhere wit- 
 nessed. 
 
 It represents a fine conglomeration of gods, god- 
 desses, kings, emperors, and triumvirs, among them 
 Apollo and the Nine Muses giving a concert, Jupiter 
 and Juno, Pluto, Proserpine, Diana, Romulus, Her- 
 cules, -^neas et id genus omne. 
 
 Next, we are conducted to the guard chamber, which 
 contains arms enough for a reo;iment of one thousand 
 men, arranged in all manner of curious and beautiful 
 designs, reminding you very much of the armory of 
 the Tower of London, although, of course, on a much 
 smaller scale. 
 
 In. fact, the arrangement of both armories was de- 
 signed by a Mr. Harris, a common gunsmith of the 
 city of London, who, for his ingenuity, received a small 
 pension. 
 
 The palace is built in the form of a hollow square, 
 and you pass from room to room all around the 
 four sides, and you obtain magnificent views of 
 the grounds every once in a while as you pass from 
 room to room. 
 
 I omitted to state that the grand staircase was by 
 Sir Christopher Wren, of whom we have made mention 
 several times before, and the inimitable wood carving 
 of the various rooms by the incomparable Grinling 
 Gibbons, who has never been equaled by any artist in 
 that line in the world. 
 
412 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 There are more than one thousand pictures to be 
 seen here, and, of course, I can only mention a few of 
 the most noted, but there are two collections of especial 
 interest, one which is called the Hampton Court 
 Beauties and the other the Beauties of the Court of 
 Charles II., formerly known as the " Windsor Beau- 
 ties," because they formerly hung in the Queen's bed- 
 chamber at Windsor Castle, whence they were removed 
 to Hampton Court early in the present century. 
 
 The famous Sir Godfrey Kneller painted the former 
 collection, and Sir Peter Lely, the latter. 
 
 The *' Court Beauties " are to be seen in the grand 
 presence chamber of William III., and the " Windsor 
 Beauties ' ' in the state bed room of William IH. 
 
 Among the Hampton Court beauties, who are 
 painted in all their thrilling sensuousness as though 
 about to step right down out of the canvas, are to be 
 seen the Countess of Essex, the Countess of Peter- 
 borough, the Countess of Ranelagh, the Duchess of 
 Grafton, and Margaret Lemon, the beautiful, though 
 far from being the only, mistress of the famous artist 
 Vandyck who was almost as noted for his licentiousness 
 as he was for his skill as a painter. 
 
 Among the Windsor Beauties, painted with all the 
 skill of Sir Peter Lely, and all the sensuality of the 
 times of Charles II., almost amounting to grossness, 
 the most noted are the Princess Mary as Diana ; Anne 
 Hyde, Duchess of York, and who became the Queen of 
 England after the death of William IIL, who survived 
 his wife, Qaeen Mary, who was the sister of Anne 
 
THE queen's gallery. 413 
 
 Hyde, the Duchess of Kichmond, whom it is said 
 that Charles II. was anxious to marry, and who was 
 by far the greatest beauty of the court; the Countess 
 of Rochester, the Duchess of Portsmouth, a courtesan 
 of the French court, who was sent over to the court of 
 Charles II. for reasons of state; the noted Duchess 
 of Cleveland, whom she supplanted in the affections of 
 the inconstant Charles, and besides many others of 
 note, the famous Nell Gwynne, who to the last re- 
 tained such a hold upon the affections of the " merry 
 monarch," that almost his last words were "not to 
 let poor Nelly starve." 
 
 I had almost forgotten to mention the portrait of 
 Miss Hamilton, the Countess of Grammont, which 
 is regarded by some as the finest and most inter- 
 esting of the collection. It is stated that this lady 
 was pursued with great ardor, and was wooed and won 
 by the Chevalier de Grammont, who, however, having 
 sated his passion, would have thrown away his con- 
 quest, as a spoiled child do'es his toys. He took 
 French leave, and started to the Continent, but the 
 injured lady's two big brothers, "hard behind him 
 rode," and caught him in an inn at Dover, and asked 
 him "if he had not forgotten something at London," 
 to which he made answer : " Pardon me, gentlemen," 
 I have forgotten to marry your sister," whereupon, no 
 doubt thinking discretion to be the better part of 
 valor, he returned to London and married the lady. 
 
 The Queen's Gallery, which is about 175 feet long, 
 contains exquisite tapestry hangings, depicting notable 
 
414 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 events in the life of Alexander the Great, and among 
 other celebrated pictures, a portrait of Eaphael, painted 
 by his own hand, and from the windows of this hand- 
 some gallery, you obtain a fine view of an artificial 
 river or canal, nearly a mile long, which is lined on 
 both sides with double and treble rows of grand old 
 lime trees, which are perhaps centuries old. In the 
 drawing-room of Queen Anne are hung many pictures 
 by Sir Benjamin West, the Quaker artist from Phila- 
 delphia, who was much admired by King George III., 
 and who was to him a most liberal patron, but judges 
 of art say, that Sir Benjamin West is below medi- 
 ocrity, even as an artist. The two most noted pictures 
 in this room are the death of the Chevalier Bayard, 
 and the death of General Wolfe on the Plains of 
 Abraham. It is said, that West took his first lessons 
 in painting from a tribe of Cherokee Indians, and yet 
 ascended to the proud height of President of the 
 Koyal Academy. Well I am proud of him as an Ameri- 
 can anyhow, even though he be " damned with faint 
 praise," by the critics. 
 
 Apropos of Sir Benjamin West, *' Gath," in a 
 recent letter, says that " at the time he lived the clas- 
 sical taste prevailed, and you could not make a picture 
 of a hod-carrier unless you clothed him in a Roman 
 toga, so as to have his legs well portrayed, and that it 
 was an American, by the way, who broke up that sys- 
 tem of painting, old Benjamin West. When he made 
 the tableau of the " Death of Gen. Wolfe " at Quebec, 
 he put on everybody the clothes he wore at the time. 
 
ASTRONOMICAL CLOCK. 415 
 
 Some people thought it was a terrible piece of irrever- 
 ence, but one shrewd old man broke into the presence 
 of the painting, looked at it carefully and finally re- 
 marked ; " After this, there will be no more Romans," 
 and there never have been any since. 
 
 In the private dining room are still to be seen the 
 royal couches of William III. and Queen Mary, and 
 also that of George II., and, with their aged and moth- 
 eaten trappings, impress one all the more with the 
 truth of the old saying, that " death is no respecter of 
 persons," or as the poet Horace more elegantly ex- 
 presses : — 
 
 Pallida mors aequo pulsat pede tabernas pauperum regumque turres. 
 
 This struggling and necessarily imperfect account of 
 Hampton Court might be extended many pages further ; 
 in fact, to do justice to this ancient pile would "tire 
 the talkative Fabius ; " but I will only note two or 
 three more items before I close. 
 
 There is a remarkable astronomical clock here, which 
 was made for King Henry YIIT. in 1540, when he was 
 making love to Catherine Howard, whom he after- 
 wards beheaded, and which has quite a curious 
 history. 
 
 It is said that on the night of March 2d, 1619, when 
 Anne of Denmark died, who was the wife of James 
 I., of England, and VI. of Scotland, the clock, 
 which was striking four at the moment of her death, 
 stopped, and that it has done so ever since when any 
 one who has long lived at the palace dies ; but, of 
 
416 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 course, the intelligent reader will believe as much or as 
 little of this story as he chooses. 
 
 Another curiosity is the " maze," which consists of 
 a number of walks, made of hedges, about seven feet 
 high, altogether a half mile in length, although the 
 maze itself covers only a quarter of an acre, which are 
 so curiously laid out that a stranger, once fairly within 
 the meshes, can with difficulty, unless assisted by a 
 guide, find his way out, it being a regular *' Cretan 
 Labyrinth," and requiring the thread of Theseus to 
 enable you to extricate your bewildered footsteps. 
 
 Last of all I shall mention the famous grape vine of 
 Hampton Court, which is the largest in England, if not 
 in the world. It has a house built especially for it, 
 and was planted in 1768. Its greatest girth^ is about 
 three feet, larger than many trees, and its longest 
 branch is more than one hundred feet. 
 
 The variety is what is known as the Black Hamburg, 
 and bears every year more than 1,000 bunches, which 
 weigh a pound each. Forty years ago it is said that it 
 sometimes bore as many as 25,000 bunches. 
 
 The next trip of importance which I took was a visit 
 to Windsor Castle, which is by far the grandest and 
 most extensive residence of English royalty, to which 
 Buckingham Palace, the home of the Queen when in 
 London, and Marlborough House, the residence of the 
 Prince of Wales, bear only a faint comjDarison. This 
 glorious old castle is reached by rail from Waterloo or 
 from Paddington Station, in about forty minutes, 
 about the same distance as Hampton Court (twenty 
 
WINDSOR CASTLE. 417 
 
 miles), and as the train darts gracefully around a curve 
 and the castle flashes on the sight, the noble old strong- 
 hold impresses the beholder with reverence nearly akin 
 to awe. 
 
 The Thames, in the neighborhood of Windsor Cas- 
 tle, is very picturesque and winding, and from the 
 latter peculiarity, this proud and ancient castle, which 
 is one of the largest and most magnificent royal resi- 
 dences in the world, derives its name. 
 
 The name is derived from the Anglo-Saxon Windle- 
 shore, which has been corrupted by usage to the pres- 
 ent euphonious Windsor. 
 
 The present magnificent pile, which is the second 
 upon the same site, was erected by William of Wyke- 
 ham, Bishop of Winchester, who was noted for his love 
 of the fine arts. 
 
 This palace was built in the reign of Edward III., 
 but, of course, has grown to its present immense pro- 
 portions during the reigns of successive monarchs, at 
 an immense expenditure of time and money. King 
 George IV. began the restoration of the Castle, and it 
 I'eached its present glorious appearance in the reign of 
 Queen Victoria, at an outlay of nearly $5,000,000 of 
 money, which statement may give some idea of its 
 vastness and magnificence. 
 
 The clistle consists of two courts called the Upper 
 and Lower Courts, which are surrounded by build- 
 ings, and between these rises the Eound Tower, from 
 the top of which can be seen one of the most exqui- 
 site panoramas in the world, and from which it is said 
 27 
 
418 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 a partial view of eleven English counties can be ob- 
 tained. 
 
 The visitor enters the Lower Court by way of the 
 castle hill by the grand gateway known as the gateway 
 of King Henry VIII. The first thing which attracts 
 the visitor's attention after passing through the elegant 
 gateway is St. George's Chapel, or Chapel of the 
 Knights of the Order of the Garter, on your left, 
 which was begun in 1474, in the late Gothic style, by 
 Edward IV., and completed by Henry VIII. In this 
 chapel lie buried the Duke of Kent, the father of 
 Queen Victoria, and the Princess Charlotte, the daugh- 
 ter of King George IV., and wife of Leopold I., King 
 of Belgium. 
 
 Here, also, is to be seen the famous monument of 
 Edward III., whose warlike son was known in history 
 as the " Black Prince," which, as a type of the chival- 
 rous and warlike temper of King Edward, who died in 
 1377, a year after his son, the "Black Prince," con- 
 sists of an iron gate between two battlemented tow- 
 ers, and which is said to have been hammered out by 
 the famous blacksmith-painter of the city of Antwerp, 
 Quentin Matsys. 
 
 King Charles I., the victim of Oliver Cromwell, and 
 the bloody Henry VIII,, with one of his six wives, 
 Jane Seymour, also lie here entombed. 
 
 Here, also, lie the remains of the Prince Imperial of 
 France, who fell in Zululand in June, 1879, while fight- 
 ing bravely as a volunteer in the British army, having 
 joined the army in order to show tis appreciation of 
 
THE ROUND TOWER. 419 
 
 the kindness and civilities which the exiled Nfipoleon 
 in. and his family had received during their melan- 
 choly stay in England. He is represented as reposing 
 in white marble on the sarcophagus with his sword in 
 hand, and on the side of his tomb is an inscription in 
 French, taken from his will, which expresses his kindly 
 feelings towards the English nation, etc. ; and as I stood 
 and gazed upon the mausoleum, I could but think of 
 the sad fate of the Napoleonic dynasty, and of the 
 astounding coincidence in the end of all of them — 
 Napoleon I., Napoleon III., and the Prince Imperial 
 all having died exiles from their native land, and in 
 circumstances how sadly altered from their former 
 greatness ? 
 
 The finest chapel, however, of all is the Albert 
 Chapel, so called in honor of the noble Prince Albert, 
 and which may be numbered as among one of the finest 
 structures of that character in the world. 
 
 The Kound Tower, or Keep, which was used as a 
 prison down to 1660, rises on the east side of the Lower 
 Court, and stands on an eminence about forty feet 
 high, and there is a deep moat surrounding it on three 
 sides. 
 
 From the summit of this tower may be seen, ten 
 miles away, the walls of the noted Eton College, 
 which is one of the most famous of English schools, 
 preparatory to entering the great universities of Ox- 
 ford and Cambridge. The other two, I believe, are 
 Rugby and Harrow — Rugby, notably. What school 
 boy has not read " Tom Brown at Rugby," and 
 
420 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 *' Tom Brown at Oxford," and I had the pleasure of 
 passing through that noted English town while pro- 
 ceeding from London down to Scotland, while on my 
 way back to my native land. This famous school 
 dates back to 1440, and to King Henry VI., and the 
 students, usually numbering some nine hundred, are 
 among the most wealthy and aristocratic of the youth 
 of England. 
 
 In the neighborhood of Windsor Castle is to be 
 seen the churchyard where Grey penned his noble 
 elegy, and in which, as it should be, lie entombed his 
 remains. And not far from this locality lie buried the 
 remains of England's foremost orator and rhetorician, 
 Edmund Burke, and of Lord Beaconsfield (Disraeli), 
 one of England's greatest Prime Ministers. 
 
 Not much now remains to be seen of the Castle, 
 save what are known as the State Apartments, and 
 these can be seen only in the absence of the Queen and 
 the Court, and her private apartments are, of course, 
 held sacred from the public eye at all times, I suppose 
 in consequence of the saying thatj *' Divinity doth 
 hedge about a king." However, I knew that the 
 Queen had gone to her Scotch Castle, Balmoral, or I 
 should not have visited Windsor at all. 
 
 These State Chambers are well worth a visit, as they 
 are ten in number, and, of course, are all decorated 
 with royal luxury and profusion. They are known 
 respectively as The Queen's Audience Chamber, The 
 Queen's Presence Chamber, The Guard Chamber, St. 
 George's Hall, The Grand Keception Room, The Wa- 
 
STATE APARTMENTS. 421 
 
 terloo Chamber, The Grand Vestibule, The State 
 Ante-Room, The Zuccarelli Room, and The Van- 
 dyck Room, which is exclusively devoted to pictures 
 by that artist, and this order of inspection, or exactly 
 the reverse, is usually the order pursued. 
 
 On the stair-case, leading to the Queen's Audience 
 Chamber, I saw a large Dutch picture representing the 
 " Massacre of the Huguenots," in which I was greatly 
 interested, as a near and dear relative of mine, of whom, 
 I believe I have before spoken, and who was herself 
 descended from those noble martyrs, had written a no- 
 table and successful historical novel called " The Hu- 
 gunot Exiles," in which her ancestor was delineated as 
 the chief actor in the drama ; but I was not long al- 
 lowed to look upon the picture, as our guide led us 
 rapidly from room to room. The ceiling was frescoed 
 in the most beautiful manner by Verrio, the court 
 painter of Charles II. 
 
 The most noted picture in the room is a full length 
 portrait of the beautiful and unhappy Mary, Queen of 
 Scots, and in the background a representation of her 
 execution by her relentless kinswoman, Queen Eliza- 
 beth, at Fotheringay Castle in 1587, after nineteen 
 years of cruel and hopeless imprisonment. 
 
 This chamber, and the Queen's Presence Chamber, are 
 both decorated with tapestry work representing por- 
 tions of the history of Esther and Mordecai. The 
 next room, the Guard Chamber, is the most interesting 
 of the three yet visited, and the arrangement of the 
 arms and armor was quite ingenious. In this room is 
 
422 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 to be seen a suit of armor worn by the fiery Prince 
 Kupert, the nephew of King Charles I., and the chief 
 commander of his Cavaliers during the Parliamentary 
 wars with the Soundheads of Oliver, including the fatal 
 defeats of Edge Hill, Naseby, and Marston Moor. An^ 
 other relic equally interesting is a portion of the fore- 
 mast of the Victory, Lord Nelson's flagship at the 
 glorious battle of Trafalgar, where he lost his life dur- 
 ing the engagement, the mast being completely per- 
 forated by a French or Spanish cannon ball — also an 
 anchor and two cannons, supposed to have been sunken 
 in the sea from some vessel of the Spanish Armada, in 
 1588, which was miraculously destroyed by a terrible 
 storm, which saved England from, probably, the great- 
 est peril she ever had confronted, until Napoleon com 
 menced his preparations for the invasion of England, 
 from the camp at Boulogne. There is also to be seen 
 here a chair made from an elm tree, under which Well- 
 ington spent some time on the eventful day of Waterloo, 
 and which some patriotic Englishman, with more money 
 than brains, bought and had it dug up and transported 
 to England. Next you enter St. George's Hall, 
 which is a grand apartment 200 feet long and more 
 than thirty feet high, and as many wide. 
 
 Here are emblazoned on the walls, the arms and in- 
 signia of each Knight of the Order of the Garter, since 
 1350, and which dates back to the time of King Ed- 
 ward HI. 
 
 Next comes the Grand Eeception Koom, which is 
 beautifully embellished in the style of the period of 
 
WATERLOO CHAMBER. 423 
 
 Louis XIV. The walls represent, in tapestry, por- 
 tions of the story of Jason, while in quest of the Golden 
 Fleece. In this room is the magnificent Malachite vase 
 three or four feet in height, which was presented to 
 the Queen by the Czar Nicholas of Russia. 
 
 Next comes the Waterloo Chamber or Grand Dining 
 Eoom, ninety-eight feet long and forty-seven wide, which 
 is in the Elizabethan style, and this magnificent room, 
 profusely and richly decorated, contains portraits by the 
 noted Sir Thomas Lawrence, painted for King George 
 IV., of many of the reigning sovereigns of Europe, as 
 well as some of the eminent statesmen and warriors 
 who took part in politics and in the field in the stirring 
 events of the years 1814 and 1815, which resulted in 
 the downfall of Napoleon, and the restoration of the 
 Bourbons to the throne of France, — events pregnant 
 with the fate of Europe. 
 
 It is called the Waterloo Chamber because a number 
 of portraits of distinguished officers, who served or fell 
 at Waterloo, hang upon the walls, which contain, as 
 above said, many of the most noted people of Europe. 
 First and foremost, our attention is called to the full 
 length portrait of Wellington, the noted conqueror of 
 Waterloo; then the fierce and bloody Bliicher, who, as 
 every body knows, saved Wellington by coming up 
 when everything seemed lost for the Allies ; Gen. Sir 
 James Kempt, who commanded the fifth division at 
 Waterloo after the death of Sir Thomas Picton ; 
 Charles, Count Alten, the commander of the third di- 
 vision ; the Marquis of Anglesea, who commanded all 
 
424 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 the cavalry, and who left a leg upon the field that 
 bloody day ; the Duke of Brunswick, killed at Quatre 
 Bras on the Friday before Waterloo ; Viscount General 
 Hill, who also commanded a division on that day, and 
 Sir Thomas Picton, who fell, shot through the head, 
 while leading his men to the charge. 
 
 For some reason,- General Ponsonby, who also fell 
 at Waterloo, does not appear in the gallery. Next 
 you are introduced into the grand vestibule, which is 
 a lofty apartment, and lighted from above by an octag- 
 onal lantern of magnificent design, and here, you also 
 see some military trophies and suits of antique armor. 
 At one end is a fine statue of Queen Victoria, with 
 her favorite dog, " Sharp," a beautiful Italian grey- 
 hound, reclining at her feet, and looking up at Her 
 Eoyal Highness, with eyes as tender and as full of 
 affection as a woman's. Here, also, you see a fine full 
 length portrait of George IV., by Chantrey, the em- 
 inent sculptor. Next you enter the State ante-room, 
 the ceiling of which is frescoed by the famous court 
 painter, Verrio, and which represents a Banquet of the 
 Gods. 
 
 This room contains, perhaps, the finest wood-carving 
 in the world, done by the celebrated Grinling Gibbons, 
 of whom it was said : *' That he gave to wood the loose 
 and airy lightness of flowers, and chained together the 
 various productions of the elements with the free dis- 
 order natural to each species." Here, also, is to be 
 seen the famous stained glass portrait of King George 
 III., in his coronation robes, above the fireplace, and 
 
VAN DYCK EOOM. 425 
 
 from the glowing brush of the great Sir Joshua Rey- 
 nolds. 
 
 Visitors next enter what is known as the Zuccarelli 
 Room, so-called, because it contains nine pictures by 
 that artist, all of Scriptural character; the most noted 
 being the meeting of Isaac and Rebecca at the well, 
 and the next one of interest, is the picture called the 
 "Finding of Moses," the artist having received a spec- 
 ial commission from King George III. to paint this 
 picture, and, what is still more rare on such occasions, 
 the king allowed the artist to choose his own subject. 
 There are also seven landscapes, one, representing 
 Jacob tending the flocks of Laban, — these paintings 
 all having been purchased by the English Consul, at 
 Venice, for King George III. This room also con- 
 tains a few other portraits, mostly of minor import- 
 ance, except those of the first three Georges, and of 
 Frederick, Prince of Wales. 
 
 Now you are conducted to the crowning glory of all, 
 the Van Dyck Room, which contains about forty por- 
 traits by that celebrated painter, including one of him- 
 self, a few of the most notable of which I shall mention. 
 First, in interest, you notice the martyred King Charles 
 I., accompanied by his equerry, who is on foot, and 
 bears the King's helmet. Next, the children of the 
 unhappy monarch, who are three in number : Charles, 
 afterwards brought back by General Monk, at the 
 Restoration, in 1660, and of whom it was said, while 
 he was King Charles II., that '* he never said a foolish 
 thing, nor ever did a wise one;" Mary, Princess of 
 
426 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Orange, and James, who afterwards became the bigoted 
 and bloody Papist King, James II. Then comes Sir 
 Kenelm Digby (the son of Sir Everard Digby), and 
 who was executed on account of his participation in 
 the Popish plot to blow up the Houses of Parliament, 
 and which has made the 5th of November (Guy Fawkes' 
 Day), ever memorable in England's history. Another 
 picture represents five figures of the royal family, 
 all full height : Prince Charles, caressing his favorite 
 spaniel ; the Princess Mary, James, Duke of York, and 
 the Princesses Elizabeth and Anne. There is still an- 
 other single portrait of King Charles I., and still one 
 more representing King Charles, his Queen, Henrietta 
 Maria, and the Prince Charles, and the Princess Mary, 
 all these being life-size. 
 
 The royal stables, which cost $350, 000, are acces- 
 sible at certain hours to those who have the time and 
 the inclination for such things, but as 1 had neither 
 the one nor the other, I amused myself by driving 
 past Prince Albert's "model farm," still known as 
 a Frogmore," along what is known as the Long Walk, 
 which has a fine carriage drive, and on each side, a 
 noble row of ancient elm trees, which extend for three 
 miles, the drive ending with a fine statue of King 
 George III., by the artist, Westmacott; and taking a 
 hasty glance at the great park, which is said to contain 
 1,800 acres, I, with great regret, took my seat in a 
 railway carriage, in order to return to London, and as 
 our train dashed swiftly around the curve, I looked 
 back, with deep regret, on grand old Windsor Castle, 
 no doubt for the last time this side the grave. 
 
HOUSE OF COMMONS, 427 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 LONDON CONTINUED, AND EDINBOKO. 
 
 fHAT evening, through the courtesy of the Lon- 
 don divine, of whom I have before spoken, and 
 who owed his admission to the fact, that one of the 
 policemen of the House of Commons attended his 
 church, it was my great privilege, as well as pleasure, 
 to attend a meeting of the House of Commons ; but to 
 my intense regret, the Lords had held a very short 
 session, and adjourned before my friend and myself 
 had even reached the entrance, which is known as 
 Westminster Hall. I am not sure, however, that we 
 could have gotten admission to the House of Lords, 
 even had they been sitting, as usually, you must ob- 
 tain the signature of some member of that august body 
 in order to pass the gauntlet of doorkeepers, police- 
 men, etc., who guard this sacred ( ?) entrance, as the 
 hundred-headed dragon of mythology was wont to 
 guard the golden apples of the Hesperides. 
 
 How different all that flummery and snobbery is 
 from our own American House of Representatives and 
 Senators, who seem generally only too willing to show 
 their constituents around when they visit the Capital, if 
 for no other reason, than to try to " make their calling 
 and (re)election sure." 
 
428 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 We saw many people in the lobbies, waiting anx- 
 iously to come across some one who could give them 
 the coveted entree^ and while my clerical friend, the 
 Kev. William C. Beardmore, 5 Argyle Square, King's 
 Cross, London, and whose church is Wesleyan Church, 
 Liverpool Street, King's Cross, was looking anxiously 
 through the crowd to find his much-wanted policeman, 
 I had the pleasure, through him, of being introduced to 
 Sir William McArthur, an ex-Lord Mayor of London, 
 and member of the House of Commons at that time, 
 and to Mr. Waddy, the member for Edinboro, who 
 was also Queen's Counsel, which, in England, seems to 
 be a prerequisite to being a judge. It seemed to me a 
 curious coincidence, when I picked up an Edinboro pa- 
 per a day or two after the introduction alluded to, 
 which contained a severe editorial against Mr. Waddy, 
 charging him with neglecting the interests of his con- 
 stituents, for those of his clients. 
 
 T will here state for the benefit of my lawyer friends, 
 that an English barrister can not sue for and recover 
 his fees, and this accounts for the fact that when an 
 English solicitor hands a brief, as it is called, to a bar- 
 rister, his fee or retainer usually accompanies it, and 
 thus he gets his fee in advance, or else generally not at 
 all. The solicitor prepares the case, and prepares the 
 brief for the use of the barrister, who alone is author- 
 ized to appear and argue the cause. 
 
 On Saturday, when the Houses do not sit, you can 
 obtain tickets to see them, from the Lord Chamber- 
 lain. The Houses generally convene in February, and 
 
HOUSE OF COMMONS. 429 
 
 their regular time for sitting is about 4 p. m., and this 
 accounts for their frequent all-night sessions. 
 
 A member of Parliament, that is to say of the House 
 of Commons, is elected for six years, draws no salary, 
 and often pays from $50,000 to $100,000 for his seat, 
 owing to what is known as the " rotten-borough 
 system," and hence, as a general thing, none but a rich 
 man is elected to the House, and thus the House of 
 Commons, which was originally intended to be a check 
 on the House of Lords, and a staunch ally of the peo- 
 ple, really has become, after all, the hot-bed of the 
 aristocracy. 
 
 Finally, having discovered our policeman, we ob- 
 tained entrance to the Stranger's Gallery of the 
 Commons, and listened to the debates for an hour or 
 two, but it seemed to be an " off-night," the benches 
 being very lightly filled, and not much, doing. 
 
 The Eight Hon. Wm. E. Gladstone, First Lord of 
 the Treasury, Prime Minister of England, and leader 
 of the House of Commons, was absent, but the speaker, 
 the Eight Hon. Sir Henry Brand, who gets $30,000 a 
 year, was at his post ; and I heard a spirited debate on 
 the famous quoestio vexata, or Irish question of " Home 
 Eule," conducted on the one side mainly by the Hon. 
 Mr. G. Otto Trevelyan, who was the under secretary 
 of the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, and virtually the 
 ruler of that country, who wrote the splendid biogra- 
 phy of his uncle. Lord Macaulay (the finest by far in 
 the whole range of English literature of that style of 
 composition), Boswell's much-vaunted life of Dr. Sam- 
 
430 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 uel Johnson, the critics to the contrary notwithstand- 
 ing, not being excepted by any means, which to a 
 reader of delicate perceptions and sensibility, is simply 
 designating by its fulsome adulation of an idol, which 
 was made of very common clay indeed ; and who, 
 himself, with all his ponderous learning, was extremely 
 egotistical, ill-mannered, rude and overbearing, su- 
 premely selfish ; and so morbidly sensitive and thin- 
 skinned in regard to supposed intended slights, when 
 none was even thought of by any one but himself, that 
 he was habitually and often to an extent which bor- 
 dered on brutality, insulting in his bearing towards 
 others. 
 
 The debate, upon the other side, was led by the far- 
 famed " Irish Agitator" (as the British press delight 
 in calling him), Charles Par n ell, the National Irish 
 leader in the House of Commons, and who, true to his 
 descent from one of the Roundheads of the great Icon- 
 oclast Oliver Cromwell, is ever to be found sternly 
 battling against " the right divine of kings to govern 
 wrong," seconded by Mr. Gibson, who is said to be 
 one of the most eloquent speakers of the House of 
 Commons ; but their style of speaking differs wonder- 
 fully from ours, and, I think, we may safely assume, 
 that the fluency of the average orator of the " Wild 
 Western Hemisphere," has hardly been equaled, ( ?) 
 perhaps for a century, by any member of the House of 
 Commons (unless, perhaps, by that famous and unriv- 
 aled triumvirate, Burke, Pitt, and Fox) ; though in 
 oratory of a very different style and caliber^ it must be 
 
ENGLISH ORATORY. 431 
 
 conceded at the same time, and, in fact, oratory ( ?) as 
 practiced among us, may be said to be one of the lost 
 arts as far as the House of Commons, or for that 
 matter, too, the average English orator is concerned. 
 
 It may be, indeed, that Americans are so fluent 
 because this glorious country of ours is, pre-eminently, 
 " the land of the free and the home of the brave," and 
 no less an authority than Kalph Waldo Emerson, has 
 lately declared that ^^ eloquence is eminently the art 
 which flourishes only in free countries;^* and he also 
 maintains the doctrine that *' if there ever was a coun- 
 try where eloquence is a power, it is the United States, 
 because here is room for every degree of it, on every 
 one of its ascending stages — that of useful speech in 
 our commercial, manufacturing, railroad and educa- 
 tional conventions ; that of political advice on the 
 grandest theater, reaching, as all good men trust, into 
 a vast future, and so compelling the best thought and 
 noblest administrative ability that the citizen can offer. 
 
 While traveling, a day or two later, from London down 
 to Edinboro, I talked with a gentleman in our compart- 
 ment, who told me that Trevelyan had also written the 
 best biography of Chas. James Fox, the great rival of 
 William Pitt, that had ever appeared. Before my infor- 
 mant left our train, I found him a highly educated and 
 cultivated gentleman, a graduate of Oxford, and by 
 the way, a nephew of Lord Zetland, who was, a few 
 years ago, the Grand Master of English Freemasons, 
 the Prince of Wales now holding that exalted position. 
 
 I was much amused, soon after entering the gallery 
 
432 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 of the House of Commons, upon having my attention 
 ^ called to the ladies' gallery, directly opposite us, and I 
 noticed at once, that they were shut up behind a fine 
 wire screen, and I was reminded of the menagerie busi- 
 ness at once. I thought the matter over, and con- 
 ^S eluded that this precaution must have been taken in 
 order to prevent female lobbyists from communicating 
 with various members of the Commons, and thus in- 
 terrupting debate, and interfering with the progress 
 b of legislation, as only a "Becky Sharp" kind of a 
 lobbyist can. 
 
 As a rule, permission to be present at the debates of 
 the Lower House can be obtained only from a mem- 
 ber of Parliament ; but I have no doubt, that my 
 friend, if he had had longer time to make the necessary 
 arrangements, could easily have obtained permission 
 from some of his high-toned friends, had not my only 
 chance to make the visit been that night. 
 
 The Commons is lighted from above and without by 
 gas reflected through soft mellow glass, and while the 
 immense chamber is beautifully lighted, you see no 
 lights, and, consequently do not suffer either from the 
 glare or from heat. 
 
 The present Houses of Parliament, date from 1840, 
 are of the Tudor style of architecture, and as Carlyle 
 so aptly expressed it, " of the modern style of confec- 
 tionery," and cover an area of eight acres. They are 
 built directly on the Thames embankment, and present 
 a grand and imposing riverfront of almost 1,000 feet. 
 They are said to contain eleven courts, 100 staircases, 
 
JOHN bunyan's tomb. 433 
 
 and 1,100 apartments, and have cost about $15,000,000, 
 which is, I believe, about the cost of the capitol, at 
 Washington. Of course, the various rooms are adorned 
 with frescoes, paintings, and statuary, in almost ex- 
 haustless profusion, but time and space both forbid that 
 I should dwell longer on this topic, when there is so 
 much yet to see and speak of, in that vast metropolis. 
 
 While riding on a London 'bus, one day (which, by 
 the way, was the place where I first met my friend, the 
 divine, and with whom I had the pleasure of break- 
 fasting, at his own home, on the folio wing day), along 
 that street which, in London, is known as the " City 
 Eoad," I noticed a quaint old graveyard, which juts so 
 closely on the street, that I obtained a good view of 
 many of the curious old tombs within it. This ceme- 
 tery is known as " Bunhill Fields," and contains all 
 that is mortal of two names of renown in the Christian 
 world, and one especially notable. I mean John 
 Bunyan, the poor tinker, who wrote the grandest and 
 most perfect allegory that the genius of man has ever 
 produced, and of which every one knows the name, at 
 least, The Pilgrim's Progress. I quote here some 
 curious verses of the day concerning Bunyan : — 
 
 * John Bunyan was a tinker bold ; 
 His name we all deligtit in, 
 All day, he tinkered pots and pans 
 All night he stuck to writin\ 
 
 In Bedford Streets, bold Johnny toiled, 
 
 An ordinary tinker; 
 In Bedford jail, bold Johnny wrote, 
 Old England^s wisest thinker. 
 28 
 
434 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 "About the Pilgrims Johnny wrote, 
 Who made the emigration ; 
 And the Pilgrim Fathers they became 
 Of the glorious Yankee nation." 
 
 The other is Dr. Watts, who was neither a great mac 
 nor a wonderful poet, but he wrote hymns endowed 
 with such grand and sublime Christian faith and hope, 
 that his name, too, will be handed down the ages. 
 
 It is a little remarkable, that directly opposite this 
 field, containing the Christian heroes, to whom we 
 have just alluded, should be seen the chapel and house 
 in which John Wesley, the founder of Methodism, 
 preached and lived, and in the yard his remains lie 
 buried. 
 
 One of the most interesting monuments, however, to 
 be seen in London, is the fire monument, which com- 
 memorates the great fire of London, which occurred in 
 1666, also the year of the great plague, which carried 
 ofi' 100,000 human beings ; and to commemorate these 
 two awful catastrophes, which befell the great metro- 
 polis the self-same year, the great poet. Dry den, 
 wrote his noted poem called Aymus Mirahilis, or the 
 ♦' Wonderful Year." The column stands near the spot 
 where the fire originated, as nearly as could be ascer- 
 tained. It stands on Fish Street Hill, near the city 
 side of the London Bridge, and being 202 feet high, is 
 considered to afford perhaps the finest view of the city 
 of London, St. Paul's being hardly excepted. 
 
 The top is surrounded by an urn forty-two feet in 
 height, ingeniously covered with gilt, and sculptured in 
 
LONDON BRIDGE. 435 
 
 such a way as to represent the fiery waves of a great 
 conflagration, as they ascend towards the heavens. 
 
 This column was designed by our old Masonic friend, 
 Sir Christopher Wren, who also designed glorious old 
 Saint Paul's, and was erected about ten years after the 
 great fire, which raged for five days and destroyed 
 460 streets, 89 churches, and 13,200 houses, the loss 
 being estimated at $40,000,000. 
 
 Near here is the London Bridge, (not the old 
 London Bridge, which, until a century ago, was the 
 only one across the Thames, of which historians and 
 novelists have so often written, but the new bridge, 
 which is 100 feet higher up the river than the old 
 bridge,) which was begun in 1825, and completed in 
 seven years, at a cost of $10,000,000. The famous 
 old bridge was used until 1831, and then removed. 
 The present bridge has five arches, the center having a 
 span of 152 feet, and the bridge is 928 feet long and 
 54 feet wide. 
 
 I crossed this bridge several times, both on foot and 
 on a 'bus, and the traffic is something prodigious, as it 
 is estimated that 20,000 vehicles, and 100,000 foot 
 passengers cross it daily. It is a sight, indeed, well, 
 worth witnessing. Below this bridge is the port of 
 London, where all the largest steamers and sailing- 
 ships lie at anchor, as there is as yet no bridge below 
 London Bridge, nor is there likely to be very soon, 
 for the population of London is increasing rapidly, 
 and her commerce, of course, in the same proportion. 
 
436 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 and they will, as commerce increases in future, need 
 more dock room than ever. 
 
 I must not omit to tell my lawyer friends that I 
 rode through " Chancery Lane," which, as its name 
 implies, leads through the quarter chiefly occupied by 
 barristers and solicitors, several times ; and by the 
 way, in Fleet Street, directly opposite Chancery Lane, 
 I saw a house about three stories in height, which had 
 evidently been a residence of some consequence in 
 former days, part of which is now used as a barber 
 shop, but on its front it bore the following inscrip- 
 tion: — 
 
 " This house was once the palace of King Henry 
 VIII." 
 
 " O, Hamlet, what a falling ofi^ was there." What 
 a transition ! from having been the residence of a 
 monarch to a place where they cut men's hair, and 
 shave them for a sixpence. 
 
 I was considerably interested in the Temple, which 
 is on the south side of Fleet Street, because this is 
 now one of the four great Inns of Court, as they are 
 called, which are colleges for the study of law, and 
 possess the privilege of calling to the Bar, and also no 
 less because of its intimate connection with the Tem- 
 plars some six centuries since. It was formerly a 
 lodge of Knights Templars, which was in those days 
 of chivalry, a religious and military order founded at 
 Jerusalem, in the twelfth century, under Baldwin, King 
 of Jerusalem, to protect the Holy Sepulchre, and pil- 
 
THE TEMPLE CHURCH. 437 
 
 grims resorting thither, and called " Templars," from 
 their original designation, as "poor soldiers of the 
 Temple of Solomon." 
 
 The Order in England dissolved in 1313, and the 
 Temple then became crown property. Afterwards, 
 the Temple came into possession of the Knights of St. 
 John, who, in 1346, leased it to the students of com- 
 mon law. From that time to the present, the build- 
 ing, or rather group of buildings, which extends to 
 the Thames, has continued to be a school of law. 
 
 The Temple Church is also an object of interest to 
 all Knights Templars, as it dates back to 1188. It is 
 divided into sections, known as the Eound Church and 
 the Choir which was added in 1240. The Eound 
 Church is the portion, however, of greatest interest to 
 the Masonic fraternity, as it contains no less than nine 
 monuments of Templars of the twelfth and thirteenth 
 centuries, consisting of recumbent figures of dark 
 marble in full Templar armor. Two of these Tem- 
 plars are especially famous, one, the Earl of Pembroke, 
 noted as the brother-in-law of King John, from whom 
 the bold barons wrested the grand charter of England's 
 liberties at Runnymede, and the other, Baron Robert 
 de Ross, who took a prominent part among the eigh- 
 teen barons in obtaining the Magna Charta, and whose 
 statues are in the House of Lords, in recognition of 
 their inestimable services to their country. 
 
 Oliver Goldsmith, who wrote the touching and 
 pathetic " Vicar of Wakefield," lies buried in the 
 
438 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 churchyard, not far distant, from these "valiant and 
 magnanimous " Knights Templars. 
 
 At this point, I can not refrain from making another 
 copious quotation from the elegant address of Sir and 
 Bro. S. W. Young, to whom I am already so much 
 beholden for the valuable materials which I have in- 
 corporated, with others, in the sketch of " York 
 and its relations to Freemasonry," in the second 
 chapter of this work, and I feel sure that I will be 
 readily pardoned by my readers when they peruse Sir 
 Young's truly eloquent and learned remarks, in con- 
 nection with the Temple Church, which we have been 
 feebly attempting to describe, though never so imper- 
 fectly, I am afraid. 
 
 "When I was a resident of the world's great me- 
 tropolis, one of my favorite haunts was the Temple 
 Garden, a quaint sweet nook, lying on the borders of, 
 and yet seemingly remote from, the rushing, roar- 
 ing and throbbing life, that surged through the great 
 arterial highway close by. There I loved to sit, 
 looking out on the bosom of Father Thames, soothed 
 into meditation by the splash of the fountain, the scent 
 of the flowers, the prattle and laughter of playing 
 children, and the shy endearments of trysting lovers ; 
 and the scene called up countless memories of the his- 
 tory of our Order — for here was their earliest and 
 greatest European home. 
 
 " There is the Round Church, to consecrate which 
 the patriarch of Jerusalem came across the sea, during 
 a truce with Saladin in 1184. 
 
THE ROUND CHURCH. 439 
 
 *' Within lie cross-legged (as all good Sir Knights 
 should lie), the effigies of the old Knights who died in 
 fighting against the infidels on those blessed acres 
 erst trodden by the humble feet of the Son of Man. 
 
 The church is still called the Church of the Temple; 
 its rector is still called the Master of the Temple, and 
 where the Prelate of the Order once said mass, the 
 white-robed Master still prays the old prayers, and 
 preaches to, perhaps, the most learned and critical con- 
 gregation in the world, and the choristers sing their 
 anthems and hymns, which the old Knights would have 
 delighted to listen to, though they would, no doubt, 
 have been sorely puzzled by the learned expressions 
 and expositions of the preacher, and would have 
 looked contemptuously enough on the great lawyers 
 who occupy their stalls, and who in their turn, gaze, 
 with careless eyes, on the recumbent forms of those 
 whose life-work, so passionately wrought out, one of 
 these same lawyers has sneered at, as the extremity of 
 human folly. 
 
 '* I have sat in that old church of theirs, and heard 
 the choir boys sing : — 
 
 " Soldiers of Christ, arise 
 And put your armor on, 
 Strong in tlie strength that God supplies 
 Through His Eternal Sons." 
 
 " And it seemed like an invocation to the stalwart 
 dead to rise and carry on their work, needed to-day as 
 much as eight hundred years ago. And I thanked God 
 
440 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 that Knight Templarism still lives, spiritualized indeed, 
 in the alchemy of Freemasonry, but in spirit and pur- 
 poses, yet unchanged. 
 
 ***** ***** 
 
 *' And I went out, and sitting in the quiet garden, 
 recalled without effort the glorious past. 
 
 " Me thought, I felt my heart burn within me, as the 
 news came home that Jerusalem had been captured by 
 the Caliph Omar, and accompanied in spirit the pious 
 pilgrims, who, during the succeeding centuries, knelt 
 at the sepulchre of the Lord. 
 
 " And then, when the cruel Turks got possession of 
 the city and heavily oppressed the Christians, I felt 
 the pathos of the patriarch's appeal to western Chris- 
 tendom, and listened to the homely eloquence of Peter, 
 the Hermit, as he told of insulting infidels, demolished 
 churches, and murdered pilgrims ; and in the open 
 space before the church, at Clermont, my heart was 
 stirred by the impassioned rhetoric of Pope Urban, 
 and with all my soul, I joined the great cry which went 
 up from the heart of the listening crowd, Deus le 
 volt — God willeth it. 
 
 "Again, I followed Godfrey, and Raymond, and Ad- 
 hemar, and Bohemond, in the first Crusade, and wit- 
 nessed the siege and capture of Nicea, the misery 
 and final triumph of Antioch, the capture of Jerusa- 
 lem, and the bloody slaughter of the Moslems. 
 
 "With what joy we hailed the noble Godfrey de 
 Bouillon, Christian King of Jerusalem, and heard him, 
 with noble humility, declare that he would only be 
 
REMINISCENCES. 441 
 
 called the Baron and Defender of the Sepulchre 
 of Christ, and that he would never wear the diadem 
 of royalty in that citVs where the Savior of man- 
 kind had worn, with bleeding brow, the crown of 
 thorns. 
 
 " Jerusalem once more a Christian city, the crowds 
 of pilgrims from Europe, swarmed again to the hal- 
 lowed shrine. But the warlike infidels, who had all 
 but conquered France, and even now, were lords of 
 Spain, were little likely to leave, without a struggle, 
 in Christian hands spots almost equally sacred in their 
 own eyes. 
 
 "Each Easter tide, the pilgrim caravan went down 
 from Jerusalem to Jericho, to bathe in the Jordan, and 
 they, too, like the man in the parable, very often fell 
 among thieves. That bloody road had, indeed, a bad 
 name for now a thousand years, and it was to succor 
 and defend the harassed pilgrims that Hugo de Pay- 
 ane and his eight valiant companions founded the Order 
 of Knights Templars, which we perpetuate to-day. 
 
 *' Time would fail us, and it needs not to recount to 
 their successors, their noble history, their pure lives, 
 and their exceeding valor. The fame of the Templars 
 and Hospitalers will never die. 
 
 " On many a bloody field they fought the infidel, and 
 for long years, they alone upheld the failing banner 
 of the Cross. 
 
 " Ah ! How they charged by the side of the lion- 
 hearted Richard, worthy comrade and fearless Knight, 
 how undauntedly they persevered, until on that fatal 
 
442 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 day, July 5, 1187, on the tableland of Hatten, sur- 
 rounded by the countless hordes of Saladin, their star 
 went down in blood, after days of derring-do unique in 
 the history of battles. 
 
 "Need I tell their subsequent fortunes, their cruel 
 sufferings, their forcible suppression? Need I trace 
 the subsequent history of their brother Order of St. 
 John, who for centuries kept up the war in the East, 
 and ruled over Cyprus, Rhodes, and Malta, and whose 
 historical succession bas never been broken ? 
 
 " The glorious story of the Crusades is a part of the 
 heritage of the world. Call the Crusades the acme of 
 folly, if you will, but to them, remember, that we owe 
 the whole modern history of Europe and America. 
 But for them the crescent, not the cross, might have 
 surmounted the spires of Notre Dame and Westmin- 
 ster I But for them America might still have been a 
 forest ; and these, our beloved and glorious United 
 States, still the dark and bloody fighting-ground of 
 nomad Indians. 
 
 *' Sir Knights, it is our duty so to live, and work and 
 combat as to make the land in which we live a " Holy 
 Land ; " and, as in Palestine, there was not only Jeru- 
 salem but Jericho, and a dark and dangerous road 
 between the two, even so we shall find it here. Many 
 souls are ever wending their way through the defiles 
 on their pilgrimage to Jordan, and in the ravines lurk 
 the thieves ready to pounce upon them and rob them, 
 and leave them naked and half-dead ! Yea, and we 
 
TEMPLAR PRINCIPLES. 443 
 
 are bound by our vows, to seek out and to succor 
 them. 
 
 " Methinks the great Master, Christ, first suggested 
 our Order, and the Good Samaritan was the first Sir 
 Knight. Who are the Templar's neighbors? He 
 seeks no further than the first poor wretch who needs 
 his help. 
 
 "Valiant and magnanimous, are you called, Sir 
 Knights; valiant to face every foe who assails you 
 from without ; valiant to suppress every evil sugges- 
 tion which rises within you ! 
 
 ** Aye, and magnanimous — great souled — lifted far 
 above petty spite, and envy or jealousy — too full of 
 your grand life-purpose to have time to quarrel or to 
 hate. 
 
 •'Magnanimous — great of heart ! Yea, so working, 
 that all you can do for Christ seemeth so poor and 
 little, that you will blush to hear the Grand Master's 
 praise in the day of the great and final review of His 
 Knights, and with the humility and modesty of a true 
 chivalry, will ask Him : Lord, where, and when, and 
 how ? and He will say * Inasmuch as ye have done it 
 unto the least of these, my brethren, ye have done it 
 unto me.' 
 
 " Sir Knights and brethren, I need not apologize to a 
 religious Order of chivalry /br this serious fotie." 
 
 " Our glory is not in pomp and trappings and parade, 
 but in duty well done. 
 
 *' Surely it is a lesson to the community at large, to 
 see everywhere displayed the Holy Cross, with the 
 
444 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 motto of our Order : * In hoc sic/no vinces^' — ' In 
 this sign thou shalt conquer.' 
 
 * * * * * * * ** * 
 
 While we are upon this topic, it may possibly be of 
 interest to the Order of Knights Templars, to know 
 that the Waldenses, when persecuted for His sake, 
 seven hundred years ago, used as their secret symbol, 
 when meeting at the peril of their lives to worship 
 God in their secret retreats, the sign of the Maltese 
 Cross and their pass-words were "In His Name," 
 and *' For the Love of Christ." 
 
 Of course, there are hundreds of other places of 
 interest which might be mentioned, but we do not pro- 
 pose to weary ourselves and our readers with such an 
 onerous task, in comparison with which the fabled 
 twelve labors of Hercules would be almost as nothing, 
 so we shall, of necessity, conclude our cursory remarks 
 concerning this great city in a few brief sentences. 
 
 However, before leaving London, I should like to 
 say a few words about the great London dailies, and 
 the impression they made on me in comparison with 
 the great leading journals of America. 
 
 To quote the words of a recent writer on this subject, 
 " if there is one thing aggravating to the American 
 tourist on his first trip to England, it is the supreme 
 indifference of the English press to American affairs," 
 and after a thorough reading and examination of the 
 English papers, extending through quite a length of 
 time, I am inclined to agree most fully in the state- 
 ment. 
 
LONDON NEWSPAPERS. 445 
 
 Having been accustomed for many years to the un- 
 limited enterprise and energy of the press of my own 
 country, and having been, truth to tell, engaged for 
 some time in my earlier life, in the dissemination of 
 leading Western dailies, among the reading classes of a 
 country where everybody reads, from the blacksmith at 
 the anvil to the President of our greatest universities — 
 where they read in the street, in the street car, in the 
 railway train, in fact, every where — I was surprised 
 to see what trouble I had in getting a paper, even the 
 " Thunderer," in the great metropolis; and although 
 I was stopping in London at a magnificent hotel, with 
 a rooming capacity of, perhaps, a thousand guests, I ' 
 could not get a copy of the Times even, unless I had 
 ordered it in advance. 
 
 Our leading journals, as every body knows, with a 
 prodigality of expenditure unknown to any class of 
 journalists but the wide awake and go-ahead fellows, 
 who " drive the quill " in our newspaper offices, stop at 
 neither pains or expense, when an " item " worth having 
 is to be had ; and our newspaper bills for dispatches from 
 the Associated Press, for cablegrams, etc., would drive 
 the average London editor stark, staring mad to say, 
 nothmg about the amounts paid for special corre- 
 spondence, etc. 
 
 However, the vaunted London Times, which for 
 fifty years past has been held up for the admiration 
 of newspaper men of America, especially, is no more 
 to be compared with one of our great metropolitan 
 dailies than the Boston News-Letter, the first paper 
 
446 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 published in America, could vie with a late issue of 
 the great New York Herald ^ or the New York 8un, 
 or Tribune. 
 
 Items concerning the Eoyal Family and the Nobility 
 take up more space in the London papers than their 
 dispatches, either by cable or otherwise, and one day, 
 when I was looking over the cablegrams from America, 
 which did not really take up more space of the paper 
 than a finger length, about the only thing I noticed 
 was about two lines regarding the death of Captain 
 Webb, by drowning, at the Whirlpool Kapids, of Nia- 
 gara, and had he not been an Englishman, I thought it 
 more than likely that it would not have been cabled 
 at all. 
 
 The personal (with the exception noted above), and 
 local features, which are such a prominent part of 
 American journalism, are almost utterly unknown to 
 English journalism, as a London newspaper, of any 
 prominence, seldom takes notice of any local events, 
 unless in some way it is related to the general interests 
 of the community, or to the larger interests of the 
 nation, or the world at large. And it is an extremely 
 rare occurrence for a London, or even a provincial, 
 journal to refer to individuals, no matter what their 
 social prominence, unless they are in somewise in pub- 
 lic life. The personal, domestic, and business affairs 
 of the individual are only in exceptional cases, tra- 
 versed or discussed in the English press in all their un- 
 fortunate or scandalous details, as is, unfortunately, too 
 often the case in our American journals ( even in those of 
 
NEWSPAPER CIECULATION. 447 
 
 prominence and standing), which is, I think, a great im- 
 provement on our style of journalism. Even the alleged 
 *' society journals" of England make reference to 
 individuals only when they are either distinguished 
 or notorious, which is, I think, decidedly preferable 
 to our " mixed " style of journalism, which chronicles 
 alike the doings, the sayings, and movements of the high 
 and mighty, as well as of the "tagrag and bobtail," 
 and not alone, as in England, of the ''distinguished 
 and notorious." 
 
 As for the newsboy, who is so indigenous to the soil 
 of America, where he seems to flourish "like the 
 green bay tree," — for him there is not much territory, 
 apparently, even in the world's greatest metropolis ; 
 and should, by any unlucky chance, one of our Ameri- 
 can gamins of this ilk suddenly find himself set down 
 high and dry in London, methinks he would soon find 
 himself like Othello, — his " occupation gone." 
 
 This article, regarding the London journals might be 
 extended to a much greater length, but such is not our 
 province nor our intention, and we propose to bring 
 these rambling suggestions to a close by citing some 
 figures which show the circulation of the London papers 
 to be far inferior to those of our leading American dailies ; 
 when we take into consideration the fact that New 
 York City, for example, has only one-fOurth of the 
 population of the city of London, and yet the New 
 York Tribune has recently come to the front with a 
 sworn statement which shows that, during the week of 
 the late Presidential election, their circulation reached 
 
448 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 the enormous, and hitherto wholly " unprecedented 
 number of 1,023,300 copies, or a daily average, for 
 seven days, of 146,185;" the day after the election 
 reaching the astounding number of 188,600 copies ; 
 and on Saturday of the same week, the number of 
 172,000, while their weekly circulation reached 
 145,910 copies, and the semi-weekly 38,300, making 
 the total number of Tribunes printed and sold in one 
 week, 1,207,510, and they claim that ninety-four tons 
 of paper was actually used in this mammoth week's 
 work. 
 
 Now, when you take these figures, and compare 
 them with what I shall now give, you will see very 
 conclusively that in comparison with us English jour- 
 nalism must take a back seat, and that Charles • 
 Dickens' "Jefferson Brick," the "American war 
 correspondent," while he may not have the " culchah," 
 of " Bull-Kun Russell," Archibald Forbes or George 
 Augustus Sala, yet he is a " hustler" all the same. 
 
 To begin with, the far-famed "Thunderer" (the 
 Tmes), has only a circulation of 100,000 copies, which 
 is far outstripped by the Telegraph, with 250,000 cir- 
 culation, which is more after the style of a newsy 
 American daily, and yet, not the same by a consider- 
 able ; then the morning and evening Standard together, 
 with 242,000; the Daily JVews, 160.000; the Chronicle, 
 120,000, and the Advertiser 25,000. 
 
 Of the popular weeklies, the best known and the 
 most largely circulated, some of them the world over, 
 are the Illustrated London News, with a circulation of 
 
OTHER SCENES. 449 
 
 100,000 copies; the Graphic, 100,000; the Sporting 
 and Dramatic News, 20,000 ; Punch, 25,000 (the 
 most of whose political jokes, however, require a dia- 
 gram for the ordinary American to get them through 
 his cranium); the Police News, 300,000; Funny 
 Folks, 80,000; Judy, 50,000; Fun, 10,000; the 
 Saturday Review, 20,000, and The World, 200,000, 
 while Lloyd's Weekly, which has probably a larger 
 circulation than any other paper in the world, sells, 
 week in week out, an average of 612,902 copies. 
 
 Now, as my time is limited, and my MS. has already 
 gone at least a hundred pages beyond what I had 
 thought, in my most sanguine moments I should be 
 able to jot down, I shall, accordingly, say nothing 
 of the Albert Memorial which, taken as a whole, is, 
 perhaps, the finest monumental structure in the United 
 Kingdom ; nothing of the National Fisheries Exposi- 
 tion, which contained interesting and valuable exhibits 
 from all parts of the world ; nothing of the South 
 Kensington Museum, which is far more interesting to 
 the ordinary observer than the mammoth British 
 Museum ; nothing of Lord Nelson's monument in 
 Trafalgar Square, which the British nation erected in 
 their gratitude to one whom they deemed their tem- 
 poral savior, because at Trafalgar he destroyed the 
 navy which was to cover the crossing of the magnifi- 
 cent army which Napoleon had gathered at Boulogne 
 for the invasion of England, which was only twenty- 
 four miles away, across the narrow channel, and which, 
 in his contempt for the whole British nation, he had 
 
 29 
 
450 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 proudly termed the "Army of England;" the 
 National Gallery, the Zoological Gardens, Sir John 
 Soane's Museum, where I saw a sarcophagus, costing 
 $10,000, and Hogarth's famous pictures, representing, 
 with what sad fidelity, alas, " TheEake's Progress " — 
 all these things of interest, I say, and more, can hardly 
 be alluded to, much less described. 
 
 Of course, it is needless to say that I left the great 
 city and turned my footsteps towards the Scottish bor- 
 der with much regret ; but I tried to console myself 
 with the thought that I had, at any rate, gotten a tol- 
 erable conception of its immensity, and its manifold 
 attractions, and that I might some day again take up 
 the thread of this truly " Cretan Labyrinth," and 
 view a few more of the many wonderful sights which 
 are to be found here by a stay of a month or two, but 
 which I could not, at that time, find opportunity to 
 hunt up. 
 
 On an extremely beautiful morning in August-— 
 that is, I mean a beautiful morning for London — I 
 took my seat in the Ediuboro express, in which I spent 
 from ten to eleven hours before reaching Edinboro, at 
 nine in the evening, as the distance is about 400 miles, 
 and it takes the fastest English-and-Scotch express 
 trains almost an entire day or night to make the trip. 
 
 When I arrived at my journey's end I was so tired 
 and hungry that I only glanced at the lights which 
 beamed down upon the city below, from the grand old 
 Castle Rock of Edinboro, which is almost directly 
 under the castle's guns, and upon my hotel on Prince's 
 
EDINBOKO. 451 
 
 Street, which is the finest street in Edinboro, as well as 
 one of the most beautiful in Europe, before I refreshed 
 the inner man, and then immediately gave mj weary 
 body to the arms of Morpheus, reserving the sights 
 " within a mile of Edinboro town," for the next day, 
 when we will proceed to take them up in their proper 
 order. 
 
 Before I bade my London friend good-by, prepara- 
 tory to leaving for the North, he said to me that I 
 should find Edinboro much more beautifully and pict- 
 uresquely situated than any city of Europe I had visited, 
 or, for that matter, than any city of Europe which he 
 himself had seen ; and when, after repeated strolls, and 
 views from various commanding points, I had begun to 
 grasp, as it were, a few of its manifold beauties and 
 attractions, I could most readily agree with him. 
 
 The immortal " Wizard of the North " (of course, it 
 goes without saying, that I mean that wonderful genius. 
 Sir Walter Scott), in his novel, " The Heart of Mid- 
 lothian," so well and so beautifully describes the view 
 from Salisbury Crags, which overlook the new part of the 
 city, from a height of some 400 feet, that I am sure I 
 shall not offend or tire the reader by quoting him. 
 
 I will say, however, that the view from Arthur's 
 Seat, which is 802 feet above the level of the sea, 
 far transcends the view which is obtained from Salis- 
 bury Crags, which are only about half the height of 
 the former. 
 
 The commanding form of Arthur's Seat is, by far, 
 the noblest and most imposing object in any, even the 
 
452 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 most cursory, views of the city of Edinboro and its 
 surroundings. It is, at the same time, the most attrac- 
 tive spot of all the pleasure grounds of Edinboro. 
 
 It is said that nowhere in the wide world (and so, 
 indeed, it seemed to me at the time) is there a city of 
 anything like its size, from which, in the short space of 
 a quarter of an hour, you may pass from the abodes of 
 wealth, and the active turmoil of agreatand busy city, 
 almost at a step, upon a scene reminding the spectator 
 of the times of the fathers in Israel, who, in wild, 
 secluded pastures, tended their cattle upon a thousand 
 hills. 
 
 This glorious observatory is called after the British 
 Prince Arthur, who is said to have gained a victory 
 over the Saxons in this neighborhood in the ninth cen- 
 tury, the scene of which they claim to show you from 
 this spot. 
 
 And now for Sir Walter's fascinating description of 
 the view from Salisbury Crags. Says he: — 
 
 ** Were I to choose a spot from which the rising or 
 the setting sun could be seen to the greatest possible ad- 
 vantage, it would be that wild path, winding around 
 the foot of the high belt of semi-circular rocks, called 
 Salit-bury Crags, and marking the verge of the steep 
 descent which slopes down into the glen on the south- 
 eastern side of the city of Edinboro. The prospect, in 
 its general outline, commands a close-built, high-piled 
 city, stretching itself out beneath in'a form, which to a 
 romantic imagination, may be supposed to represent 
 that of a dragon's, now, a noble arm of the sea, with its 
 
SALISBURY CRAGS. 453 
 
 rocks, isles, distant shores, and boundary of mountains ; 
 and now a fair and fertile champaign country, varied 
 with hill, dale and rock, and skirted by the picturesque 
 ridge of the Pentland Mountains . But as the path gently 
 circles around the base of the cliffs, the prospect, 
 composed as it is of these enchanting and sublime ob- 
 jects, changes at every step, and presents them blended 
 with, or divided from each other, in every possible 
 variety which can gratify the eye and the imagination. 
 When a piece of scenery so beautiful, yet so varied, — 
 so exciting by its intricacy, and yet so sublime, — is 
 lighted up by the tints of morning or of evening, and 
 displays all that variety of shadowy depth exchanged 
 with partial brilliancy, which gives character even to 
 the tamest of landscapes, the effect approaches near to 
 enchantment. 
 
 "This path used to be my favorite evening and 
 morning resort, when engaged with a favorite author 
 or a new study, and this fascinating path was to me the 
 scene of much delicious musing, when life was young 
 and promised to be happy." 
 
 The same scene, substantially, presents itself to the 
 spectator to-day, as it was sixty years ago, and to me, 
 who saw it by those ''evening tints," to which the 
 famous author alludes above, the view was vastly en- 
 hanced by a melancholy interest to which he does not 
 refer, but which, with a certain feeling of melancholy, 
 I shall take the liberty of mentioning, and this inter- 
 est was caused by the prospect of the venerable Holy- 
 rood Palace, which nestles at the foot of these rugged 
 
454 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Crags, and which has been made forever famous by its 
 beautiful, but alas ! unhappy occupant, Mary, Queen 
 of Scots. 
 
 Here is where the beautiful young widow of the 
 Dauphin of France first rested her weary limbs and 
 tried to dispel the gloom from her clouded young 
 life upon her return to her native land from the 
 land of her adoption ; here was the scene of her mar- 
 riage with the ill-fated Lord Darnley ; here her Italian 
 secretary and alleged lover, Riccio, (though historians 
 after a dispassionate review of the evidence in the case 
 pro and cow, are inclined to believe her innocent of 
 that infamous charge, which, with all the confident 
 assurance of injured innocence, she always indignantly 
 repelled) was murdered in her private banquet room, 
 and, after being stabbed with fifty-six wounds, 
 and being dragged through the Eoyal apartments, 
 breathed his last ; here, to the disgust and grief of her 
 friends, and amid the derision and contempt of her 
 enemies, she married Bothwell, and here, too, the 
 prisoner of those who should have been her loyal sub- 
 jects and protectors, she passed the, last night before 
 she became a prisoner in the Castle of Lochleven. 
 
 Within these historic walls, at many a regal enter- 
 tainment, she enchanted all who beheld her by the un- 
 paralleled beauty of her person (but when, alas ! has 
 ever beauty been to woman aught but a deadly curse?) 
 by the grace of her bearing and manners, and, better 
 still, by the solid attractions of a polished and culti- 
 v^ated mind. 
 
«' MODERN ATHENS." 455 
 
 Here, too, she had to contend with the fiery and un- 
 compromising John Knox, and other leaders of less 
 renown connected with the Scottish Keformation, and 
 who, in the presence of this beautiful Queen, seemed 
 to forget that she, and not they, was the Sovereign, 
 and dared (yet in the name of God, we should remem- 
 ber), in her own sacred apartments to take to task 
 their own Sovereign and her maids of honor, for their 
 religion. 
 
 A describer of Holyrood describes Mary Stuart as 
 that *' lovely, suffering, intensely-interesting Queen," 
 whose personal charms, and tragical death at the 
 hands of her merciless kinswoman, the masculine 
 Elizabeth, upon a wholly unproven charge of conspir- 
 acy against her life and crown, (but who, herself being 
 very far from handsome, naturally hated Queen Mary 
 for her marvelous beauty and manifold attractions) 
 have elicited the most eloquent periods from our 
 greatest historians, and whose beautiful face has given 
 inspiration to so many of the world's 'grandest poets, 
 among them Schiller in Germany, and Alfieri in 
 Italy. 
 
 This beautiful city is, undoubtedly, the only one in 
 the world (except the famous original), which has a 
 well-defined right to be termed the " modern Athens," 
 and it is said that Mr. Stewart, the author of the 
 "Antiquities of Athens," was the first to depict the 
 resemblance of Edinboro' to Athens. 
 
 Mr. H. W. Williams, however, so widely known in 
 
456 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 literary and scholastic circles, as " Grecian Williams," 
 traced the likeness minutely in every feature of the 
 respective landscapes, the only defect he observed 
 being that the National Monument ought to have been 
 on the Castle Eock, that being the elevation correspond- 
 ing to the Acropolis at Athens, on which the Parthenon 
 stands. 
 
 We hav^ already seen what Sir Walter Scott thought 
 of its natural features, and it is through these, as well 
 as the magnificence of its modern Grecian buildings, 
 that it proudly maintains the claim of being among the 
 most beautiful, if not the most beautiful, of all Euro- 
 pean capitals. 
 
 Of course, the first place of historic interest, because 
 the most conspicuous, (and heuce, naturally, the first 
 thing that the tourist usually turns his attention to) 
 which meets his inquiring gaze, is the grand old Castle 
 Rock of Edinboro' , which historians tell us, was occu- 
 pied by the aboriginal tribes long before the conquest 
 of Brittany by the Romans under Julius Caesar. 
 
 Its situation must have rendered it impregnable, 
 previous to the invention of artillery, and pointed it 
 out as an advantageous stronghold, and hence there is 
 no reason to doubt the antiquity claimed for this im- 
 posing old fortress ; but now it is of little importance, 
 although covering eleven acres, as an enemy or even the 
 citizens of Edinboro' in a state of insurrection, could 
 easily seize Arthur's seat, and soon bring to terms this 
 old relic of feudal times. 
 
EDINBORO' CASTLE. 457 
 
 Burns beautifully describes the Castle Rock in the 
 following glorious lines : — 
 
 " There, watching high the least alarms, 
 Thy rough, rude fortress gleams afar, 
 Like some bold vet'ran, gray in arms, 
 And marked with many a seamy scar; 
 The pondrous wall and massy bar. 
 Grim-rising o'er the rugged rock. 
 Have oft withstood ass'ailing war, 
 And oft repelled the invader's shock." 
 
 The castle is said once to have had seven gates, but 
 at the present time you enter by one only, and the 
 moat, which once guarded the south side of the castle, 
 which is alone accessible, has been dry for many 
 years. 
 
 There are persons in waiting, who for a small gratu- 
 ity, show you through such parts of the castle as are 
 usually shown to visitors, and give you a historical 
 sketch, more or less graphic and reliable (generally 
 less), of the sights and curiosities contained there. 
 
 In order, however, to better grasp the situation, you 
 must bear in mind that Edinboro' is divided into two 
 portions, called the "old" and *'new" town, the 
 Castle Rock, of course, belonging to the old town nat- 
 urally, these being separated by a deep ravine extend- 
 ing for quite a distance, which is now mainly a grand 
 park and flower-garden, and through which several 
 railways pass, on one of which, the Caledonian 
 Railway, I afterwards departed for the Scotch lakes, 
 passing the very base of the Castle Rock. 
 
458 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Of course, the old town must needs be the historic 
 portion of Edinboro', and to this we propose, accord- 
 ingly, to give our attention in the main, although we 
 shall mention, we trust, some things of interest con- 
 nected with the new town. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 EDINBORO' CONTINUED. 
 
 'DINBOEO' Castle, perched on the summit of the 
 rock at the west end of the central ridge of the 
 city, is 443 feet above the level of the sea, and, of 
 course, forms the most striking feature in all views of 
 the metropolis. 
 
 The Rock, it is supposed, was a stronghold from the 
 time of the Picts, and long before the records of 
 Scottish history. 
 
 The present buildings, however, date only from 
 about the fifteenth century (with the exception of St. 
 Margaret's Chapel, which is 800 years old), and are 
 about 700 yards in circumference. The whole of the 
 circular front to the east was destroyed by Earl Mor- 
 ton's siege, in the time of Queen Mary, and rebuilt by 
 him after Mary's defender — Kirkaldy of Grange — 
 had yielded. 
 
ANCIENT LANDMARKS. 459 
 
 After passing the drawbridge and guard house, we 
 pass beneath the portcullis gate, over which is the old 
 State Prison where the Marquis of Argyle, Lord Bal- 
 carras, and many other illustrious prisoners have been 
 confined, and whence many of them were led forth to 
 an ignominious death. 
 
 A little further up to the right, is the Argyle Bat- 
 tery, and at the foot of the roa'dway in front, is the 
 Armory, which has a capacity of 30,000 stands of 
 arms. Passing up the steep causeway, we see on the 
 right, the Governor's house, and further up on the 
 same side are the new barracks, a lofty and imposing 
 pile of buildings. 
 
 Turning to the left, and passing through an old 
 arched gateway, the citadel is now reached, from which 
 we obtain various views, which fill with enthusiasm and 
 delight, the most fastidious and hypercritical of be- 
 holders. From the citadel, turning in a southeast 
 direction, we pass along the half -moon battery, con- 
 structed by the Regent Morton, in 1574, and here the 
 Time Gun is fired daily at 1 p. m., by electricity from 
 the observatory on the Caton Hill, where a ball is 
 dropped at the same time. 
 
 Turning to the right, we pass into the square, the 
 south and east sides of which constituted for centuries 
 the Royal Palace and stronghold of the kings and 
 queens of Scotland. The royal apartments were on 
 the east side, where a long line of sovereigns were 
 born, lived and died, and here we enter Queen Mary's 
 room. A few paces south from the crown-room, on 
 
460 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 the ground floor, is the room in which, on June 1-9, 
 1566, Queen Mary gave birth to a son, who, after- 
 wards, became King James VI. of Scotland, and I. of 
 England. A stone tablet over the arch of the old 
 doorway, with the initials H. and M. inwrought for 
 Henry (Lord Darnley) and Mary, and the date 1566, 
 commemorates this event. The room itself, which is 
 surprisingly small, its'greatest length being little more 
 than eight feet, like the banquet-room in Holywood 
 Palace, where Eiccio was assassinated, is singularly 
 irregular in form, but has undergone very little change 
 from that day to this. 
 
 Some of the original wainscot paneling having been 
 injured or removed, it has been replaced in a rather 
 inelegant fashion. The original ceiling, however, is 
 still preserved, wrought in ornamental wooden panels, 
 with the initials I. R. and M. R., surmounted with the 
 royal crown, in alternate compartments. On the wall 
 are the royal arms, and beneath them a long verse, 
 which with its antique and curious lettering, I could not 
 conveniently decipher, so I gave up the attempt. 
 Above the fireplace, and on the wall opposite is the 
 date of the birth of Mary's son, " 19 Jvnii, 1566." 
 
 In the room still stands an old oak chair, which was 
 there when King James was born. The interested visi- 
 tor will also notice a block of thorn tree, which was 
 planted by the fair hands of Queen Mary herself at 
 Lochleven Castle, while there a prisoner, and which 
 was cut down in 1849, and presented by Sir G. Mont- 
 gomery. 
 
GRASS MARKET. 461 
 
 Looking from the window of this historic chamber, 
 an amazingly picturesque sight meets the eye. Some 
 hundreds of feet below is the Grass Market, a name 
 which is indelibly imprinted in the memory of all true 
 Scotsmen, by the scenes it witnessed in the times of 
 the Covenanters, and of the "Bloody Kirke" (whom 
 afterwards, in 1686, the New England colonies greatly 
 dreaded would be sent out to them as their Governor 
 by King James II., but much to their relief the less 
 redoubtable Sir Edmund Andros came), and Claver- 
 house, where so many of the " Scots worthies " suf- 
 fered death at the hands of their despotic and prelatic 
 persecutors. 
 
 By the way, a pretty good repartee was gotten off in 
 response to Sir Edmund, when he visited Hartford, by 
 the witty Dr. Hooker, to whom he remarked one 
 morning: *' Well, Doctor, I suppose all the good peo- 
 ple of Hartford are fasting and praying on my 
 account." The worthy Doctor, who at once saw his 
 opportunity, made answer, with a roguish twinkle of 
 his eye: "Yes, of course, for you know that we 
 read this kind goeth not out but by fasting and 
 prayer." 
 
 The youthful James Eenwick was the last of the 
 martyrs who sealed their faith with their blood in the 
 Grass Market. The place of execution was at the east 
 end of the square, opposite No. 100. The gibbet was 
 an exceedingly familiar object here between the years 
 1680 and 1788, and the place where it stood so long, is 
 
462 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 yet marked by a circle enclosing a cross on the high- 
 way. 
 
 Nearly opposite, on the same side, stood, till de- 
 molished in the " city improvements " of 1874, the 
 tenement in front of which Captain Porteous was 
 hanged to a dyer's pole, which is fully described in 
 the " Heart of Midlothian." 
 
 One or two of the old tenements on the opposite 
 side of the street belonged to those '* Templar Lands," 
 once so numerous at the foot of the Bow and Grass 
 Market. It was only in 1746 that the independent 
 jurisdiction of the Knights Templars was conclusively 
 abolished. 
 
 Still further beyond, in the distance, tower the grand 
 old pinnacles of Heriot's Hospital and Arthur's Seat, 
 and rising far in the background to the right are the 
 ruined towers of royal Craigmillar Castle — once the 
 residence of the hapless Mary. 
 
 It has been asserted by some authorities that the 
 young Prince, when but a few days old, was, for the 
 purpose of being baptised in the Eoman Catholic faith, 
 let down by stealth, at night, in a basket from the 
 window of Queen Mary's room, which has but one, I 
 believe, and carried to Stirling Castle. There can re- 
 main no doubt that Mary's room is one of the oldest 
 and best preserved parts of the ancient palace of the 
 kings and queens of Scotland. 
 
 A curious conversation, reported in Lord Herries' 
 " Memoirs," which took place between Queen Mary 
 
CRAIGMILLAR CASTLE. 463 
 
 and Lord Darnley on the day of the birth of the young 
 Prince, renders this quaint little chamber altogether a 
 place of interest : — 
 
 "The young prince," says Herries, "was ushered 
 into the world between nine and ten in the morning. 
 Darnley came at two in the afternoon to see his royal 
 spouse and his child. 
 
 *' * My lord,' said Mary, " God has given us a 
 son,' and partially uncovering the infant's face, she 
 added a protest that it was his, and no other man's 
 son. 
 
 *' Then turning to an English gentleman present, she 
 said : * This is the son who, I hope, shall first unite the 
 two kingdoms of Scotland and England.' 
 
 ** Sir William Stanley then inquired, ' Why, madam, 
 shall he succeed before your majesty and his father? ' 
 
 " 'Alas ! ' answered Mary, ' his father has broken 
 to me,' alluding to his having joined the murderous 
 conspiracy against Riccio (or Rizzio). 
 
 "'Sweet madam,' said Darnley, ' is this the 
 promise that you made : that you would forget and 
 forgive all? ' 
 
 " ' I have forgiven all,' said the Queen, ' but will 
 never forget. What if Hawdonside's (one of the con- 
 spirators) pistol had shot? (She had felt the cold 
 steel on her bosom). What would have become of 
 him (meaning her unborn son) and me both?' 
 
 " ' Madam,' said Darnley, *these things are past.' 
 
 " ' Then,' said the Queen, ' let them go,' and thus 
 ended this extraordinary conversation." 
 
464 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 In the large outer room or ante-chamber adjoining 
 Queen Mary's room are several portraits of interest to 
 which we will make barely a passing allusion : — 
 
 The most notable is one of Queen Mary herself when 
 Dauphiness of France, painted by Sir John Watson 
 Gordon, from the original by Furino, the Italian art- 
 ist, and presented by him for exhibition — the original 
 beino; now in Dunrobin Castle. 
 
 This superb portrait, which yet bears the tra.ce of Sir 
 John's masterly style, is said to be the only reliable 
 likeness of Marie Stuart extant. 
 
 As she married Francis, the Dauphin, when she was 
 only about sixteen years of age, the likeness may be 
 safely ascribed to a short period after that time. 
 
 Another painting of interest is one by the artist. 
 Sheriff, done when he was a mere youth, which repre- 
 sents the escape of Queen Mary from her imprison- 
 ment in Lochleven Castle, under Lady Douglas, which 
 she managed very adroitly by bringing to bear her 
 personal charms and seductive wiles upon George 
 Douglas, her keeper's brother, a youth of eighteen 
 years — in whom she found a champion and rescuer — 
 who was aided by William, or the " little Douglas." 
 
 After supper, on May 2d, 1568, the keys of the 
 castle were stolen from the elder Douglas, the Queen 
 and her maid put into a boat, the castle gate relocked, 
 the keys flung into the lake, and Mary was free once 
 more. 
 
 It was not long, however, befor.e the adherents who 
 had rallied around her standard were defeated; and 
 
THE CROWN ROOM. 465 
 
 then, conscious of the innocence of her intentions to- 
 wards the Queen of England, she, unfortunately, fled to 
 Elizabeth for protection, who gave her just such pro- 
 tection as the wolf gives the lamb, none other. 
 
 The large building on the left, as we issue from 
 Queen Mary's room, was formerly the great hall of 
 the palace. It is a magnificent apartment, eighty feet 
 in length, by thirty-three in width, and twenty-seven 
 feet to the ceiling, which is of open timber, each joint 
 springing from a corbel stone. 
 
 This room was the ancient Parliament House of the 
 kingdom of Scotland, and was, during those times, used 
 frequently for banquets of state, one of the last which 
 was given in this hall having been given in honor of 
 the visit of Charles I. to Scotland, in 1633. 
 
 A few paces to the right, as we make our exit beneath 
 the old clock tower, we next reach the room where the 
 royal regalia of Scotland are preserved, and which is 
 known as the Crown Room. 
 
 These insignia of the ancient monarchs of Scotland, 
 consisting of a crown, a scepter, a sword of state and 
 a silver rod of office (supposed, commonly, to be that 
 of the Lord Treasurer), were long believed to be lost ; 
 but, after lying in an old oak chest, from the date of 
 the union of England and Scotland, and the abolition 
 of the Scottish Parliament, as a natural consequence 
 thereof, in the early part of the eighteenth century, 
 they were, chiefly through the instrumentality of Sir 
 Walter Scott, restored to the light in 1818, after hav- 
 
 30 
 
466 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 ing been hidden away from the eye of man for more 
 than 110 years. 
 
 The Prince Kegent (afterwards Geo. lY. ) granted a 
 commission to allow the Crown Room to be searched, 
 and, to the great joy of the whole Scottish nation, 
 they were found intact in the very state in which they 
 had been placed in the old oaken chest in 1701, the 
 chest having been forced open by blacksmith's tools, 
 as the keys had been lost for more than a century 
 
 Scotsmen are justly proud of these symbols of their 
 unconquered independence, which are hoary with an- 
 tiquity, and are the relics of a long line of monarchs, 
 beginning with King Robert the Bruce, the hero of 
 Bannockburn. A part of the crown, at least, has been 
 worn by Robert Bruce, and, besides other sovereigns, 
 it has encircled the brow of the beautiful and unhappy 
 Queen Mary herself; her son, James VI., and her 
 grandson, Charles I. The sword was a gift from Pope 
 Julius II. to James IV. The form of the crown is 
 remarkably elegant, and the lower portion consists of 
 two circles, both of the finest gold, the upper circle 
 being ornamented with fleurs-de-lis, and with pinnacles 
 of gold, topped with pearls of immense size, while the 
 under circle is adorned with twenty-two precious 
 stones, with a magnificent pearl set between each stone, 
 these being made of topazes, emeralds, amethysts, 
 rubies, and jacinths, while there is a still smaller circle 
 set with diamonds and sapphires alternately. The 
 crown is twenty-seven inches in circumference, about 
 
HERO OF BANNOCKBURN. 467 
 
 nine inches in diameter, and about six and a half inches 
 in height from the bottom of the lower circle to the 
 top of the cross, and considering the remote age in 
 which it was designed, and that it dates back to Robert 
 Bruce (nearly six centuries ago), it does not compare 
 unfavorably with the royal tiara of Queen Victoria in 
 the Jewel Room in the Tower of London. 
 
 On the glorious field of Bannockburn, Bruce is his- 
 torically represented as wearing an open crown or 
 circlet of gold over his helmet, which made him a 
 bright and shining mark for the attack of the English, 
 and the King, being easily singled out by his glittering 
 crown, this fact, no doubt, lured the fiery Sir Henry 
 de Bohun on to his death, before the action had fairly 
 begun, at the hands of the valiant Scottish chief, who, 
 despite his helmet, cleft de Bohun to the chin with one 
 stroke of his heavy battle-ax. In the stirring words 
 of the poet : — 
 
 " The monarch rode along the van, 
 The foe's approaching force to scan," 
 
 and Sir Henry de Bohun, extremely desirous, no doubt, 
 of having the honor of engaging the Scottish king in 
 single combat, — 
 
 " He spurred his steed, he couched his lance, 
 And darted on the Bruce at once." 
 
 But he had "reckoned without his host" and truly 
 did he find in the doughty Bruce, *' a foeraan worthy 
 of his steel, "for — 
 
 "While on the King, like flash of flame, 
 Spurred to full speed, the war horse came! 
 
468 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Bat swerving from the knight's career, 
 Just as they met, Bruce shunned his spear. 
 
 • ' High in his stirrups, stood the King, 
 And gave his battle-ax the sveing ; 
 Such strength upon the blow was put. 
 His helmet cracked like hazel-nut." 
 
 By the way, 1 may state here, that on the way from 
 Edinboro' to Loch Katrine, not far from Stirling and 
 Stirling Castle, I passed the field of Bannockburn, 
 ^ and saw a banner proudly waving from a flag-staff on 
 the field of battle, which took place in 1314, and was 
 one of the most signal defeats that the English ever 
 received, although King Edward 1. had 100,000 troops 
 of the flower of England, to contend with the 30,000 
 Highlanders of Bruce, and the result of which glorious 
 victory was to raise Bruce from the dignity of a hunted 
 rebel, with a price set upon his head, to the rank of 
 an independent and undisputed sovereign, and success- 
 ful warrior. 
 
 To this day, the stone in which the Scottish stand- 
 fl ard was flung to the breeze on that glorious day, is to 
 be seen on the field, and it is called the " Bore Stone," 
 ' and is clamped all over with iron bars, I presume, to 
 prevent the relic-hunter from breaking up and carry- 
 ing away every vestige of its remnants. 
 
 The sword of state is about five feet long, the handle 
 and pommel being more than a foot in length, and are 
 formed of silver, gilded, and highly carved and orna- 
 mented, and the cross of the sword is represented by 
 two dolphins, with their heads joined at the handles. 
 
THE SWORD OF STATE. 469 
 
 The scepter is a slender silver rod in the form of 
 a hexagon, and surrounded by an antique capital of 
 embossed leaves, and which supports three small 
 figures representing the Virgin Mary, Saint Andrew 
 and Saint James. 
 
 When King Charles I. succeeded King James VI. 
 on the united thrones of England and Scotland, he de- 
 sired the royal regalia to be sent up to London to be 
 used at his coronation, but the canny Scots looked 
 upon that as an infringement upon the sovereignty of 
 Scotland, and in deference to the wishes of his Scot- 
 tish subjects. King Charles found it incumbent upon him 
 to visit Edinboro' in person, where he was crowned 
 with the royal tiara, and invested with the sword, etc., 
 according to the ancient custom, and this ceremony 
 took place at Holyrood Palace, amidst the most mag- 
 nificent and imposing pageantry that Scotland had ever 
 witnessed up to that time, or, perhaps, ever has 
 since. 
 
 Another poet has spoken of the old castle, and its 
 invaluable treasures and souvenii-s of the ancient glory 
 of Scotland and her kings, as follows : — 
 
 " The steep and iron-bedded rock, 
 Where trusted lies the monarchy's last gems, 
 The scepter, sword and crown that graced the brows, 
 Since Father Fergus, of an hundred kings." 
 
 Queen Margaret's chapel stands on the highest plat- 
 form of the Castle Eock, and is undoubtedly the oldest 
 and smallest chapel in Scotland, being but sixteen feet 
 six inches long bv ten feet six inches in width. 
 
470 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Queen Margaret was the pious Queen of Malcolm III. 
 (called also Canmore), and this chapel was probably 
 built by her, and used as a place of worship during 
 her residence at the Castle, and up to the period of her 
 death in 1093. It is yet in an excellent state of preser- 
 vation. 
 
 I stepped inside of the little chapel to take a survey 
 of it, when I found there, lying in wait for the unsus- 
 pecting sight-seer, an old Scotchwoman, who besought 
 me, with great earnestness and intense loquacity, to 
 buy some of her photographs, views, etc., and she 
 wanted especially to sell me the pictures of Eobert 
 Burns and his " Highland Mary," but I finally escaped 
 Cv from her by buying a few views, and also a photo- 
 graph of a " Scotch Washing," which was both novel 
 and interesting to me, as it gave me an insight into, 
 at least, one more of the curious customs of that 
 country. 
 
 The picture (which was highly colored) represented 
 a bonny Scotch lassie, with stout brawny limbs, bare to 
 the knees, and standing in a tub filled with clothes and 
 washing water, which she was, so to speak, kneading 
 •T briskly with her feet in order to extract the dirt from 
 them, and it occurred to me that the clothes would need 
 considerable trampling before they would pass muster 
 sufficiently well to be called clean. 
 
 Hard by the chapel of Queen Margaret is the noted 
 cannon " Mons Meg," on the Bomb Battery, which 
 affords the finest view to be had from the Castle Rock 
 of the new town of Edinboro' ; the public gardens, which 
 
" MONS MEG." 471 
 
 nestle at the very foot of the rugged old Castle Kock, 
 and of the magnificent Princes Street, one of the finest 
 urban promenades in Europe, which is not excelled in 
 natural beauties, probably, by any thoroughfare in the 
 world, and which has for one of its chief ornaments 
 and attractions the fine monument to the " Wizard of 
 the North." 
 
 Mons Meg is commonly believed to have been made 
 at the City of Mons, in France, in 1476 ; but Sir 
 Walter Scott claims for it a native pedigree. 
 
 It is constructed much on the same principle as the 
 modern Armstrong guns which had done so much 
 (prior to the invention of the Gratling gun), to revo- 
 lutionize warfare during the present century ; that is, 
 it is made in coils or sections overlapping each other. 
 It is thirteen feet, and seven inches in circumfer- 
 ence, and has a caliber of twenty inches, and weighs 
 more than five tons. 
 
 Of course, by the side of the monster guns of 
 modern times, especially the Krupp guns, or even 
 some made in this country, this gun is a small affair, 
 but when we consider it as the product of the eigh- 
 teenth century, the gun is really a marvelous produc- 
 tion. 
 
 A pile of massive stone balls which lie beside it are 
 said to have been fired from' Mons Meg, and after- 
 wards gathered up on Wardie Moor, three miles dis- 
 tant. The cannon was really forged at Castle Douglas 
 for James 11., by McKim, a blacksmith of the place, 
 in order to aid in the siege of the castle of Thrieve. 
 
472 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD, 
 
 McKim named the cannon " Mollance Meg," jointly 
 in honor of the estate which James II. gave him for 
 his services in making the monster cannon (for it was 
 the largest that had ever been seen in England, or per- 
 haps in the world up to that time), and " Meg " being 
 in honor of his wife. 
 
 The cannon has a rent in it of considerable extent 
 near the breech, which was made by an overcharge of 
 powder, when firing a salute in honor of the visit of 
 the Duke of York to the city in the year 1682. 
 
 The gun also took part in the siege of Norham Castle 
 in 1497, and in 1754, it was removed to the Tower of 
 London, where it remained until 1829, when Sir Walter 
 Scott obtained from King George IV. its triumphant 
 restitution to the castle. 
 
 The armory of the castle is now about all that is 
 left for the curious to visit, and we conclude our sketch 
 of the castle with a brief allusion to some things of in- 
 terest which are to be seen there. 
 ' Among them, about fifteen thousand stands of arms, 
 a coat of mail of one of the Douglases, ancient helmets, 
 breast-plates, shields, Lochaber battle-axes, and a 
 dagger worn by Rob Roy. 
 
 Among the greatest curiosities, however, to be found 
 there is an exceedingly ingenious steel shield, with a 
 pistol barrel fixed in the center, and fired from behind 
 through a small aperture in the shield, which must have 
 been quite astonishing to the enemy when the pistol 
 was suddenly and unexpectedly fired from behind into 
 his face, and thus almost literally turning the shield 
 
THE ARMORY. 473 
 
 into a sword. There is also a fine collection of steel 
 pistols used by the Highlanders of Prince Charles at 
 the battle of Culloden in 1745, which formed the sub- 
 ject of Campbell's beautiful poem beginning: — 
 
 " Lochiel, Lochiel, beware of the clay 
 When the Lowlands shall meet thee in battle array 
 For a field of blood rushes red on my sight, 
 And the clans of Culloden are scattered in flight." 
 
 There are also some swords which were taken from 
 the French ; cuirasses stripped from Napoleon's heavy 
 dragoons at Waterloo, and also specimens of the 
 the weapons used in the Peninsular War, where Sir 
 Arthur Wellesley made the reputation which afterwards 
 made him the Duke of Wellington. 
 
 The armory is thought to be built on the site of the 
 secret postern through which the corpse of Queen 
 Margaret was secretly removed to Dunfermline for the 
 rites of sepulture, at the very time the castle was being 
 stoutly besieged by Donald Bane, the usurper. 
 
 We now leave the castle, and first passing the espla- 
 nade, which was in ancient times a favorite promenade 
 of the old town of Editiboro', where, in the days of 
 Bloody Mary, executions often took place "for His 
 sake," and where are to be seen several monuments to 
 officers and soldiers of the British army, we soon reach 
 the spacious thoroughfare (though not as fashionable 
 a resort as its more aristocratic, though less historic 
 neighbor, Princes Street in the new town), which 
 intersects the old town between the castle and Holy- 
 rood, which is about a mile long. 
 
474 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 This ancient and historic street, takes successively 
 the names of Castle Hill, Townmarket, High Street, 
 Netherbow, and Canongate. 
 
 The oldest thoroughfare of Edinboro', however, is 
 probably the West Bow, and it was through this an- 
 cient street which made three bows or turns between 
 the Grass market (which, we have said above, was di- 
 rectly beneath the castle rock), that the earl of Both- 
 well led Queen Mary, in pretended captivity to the 
 castle, and when James VI., her son, brought home to 
 Edinboro' his consort, Anne of Denmark, he entered 
 the city in triumph by this route, and King Charles I., 
 Charles H., Oliver Cromwell, and James H. while the 
 Duke of York, also made their triumphal entry at 
 various times. 
 
 If you will step aside a few i^aces into the Cowgate 
 which debouches into the Grass Market, you will notice 
 an interesting chapel with a fine tower and spire, and 
 which has the only painted glass windows in the city 
 of Edinboro', which date back to a period prior to the 
 Reformation. 
 
 This church is mainly notable, however, because of 
 its connection with the last sad rites of the martyred 
 Marquis of Argyle who, at the same time that the 
 Duke of Monmouth invaded England, and was de- 
 feated at Sedgmoor in 1685, came back from Holland, 
 and with his clan 5,000 strong, with their glittering 
 claymores and their tartan plaids, who would have gone 
 to the end of the world for MacCallum More, raised 
 an insurrection against King James II. inthe Highlands, 
 
THE HISTORIC CHAPEL. 475 
 
 which, however, was soon put down, and Argyle paid 
 the usual penalty with his life, although he was the 
 most powerful subject in the British dominions, his 
 body having been carried hither, and lay in the chapel 
 for some days, until it was removed by his friends to 
 the family sepulchre at Kilmun, while his head was 
 affixed to the north gable of the Tolbooth of Edinboro'. 
 
 He had several years previously been convicted of 
 treason, at the instigation of the wicked and unscru- 
 pulous Duke of York, on the flimsiest grounds, upon 
 grounds so untenable that even Halifax (one of the 
 most notorious *' trimmers," and sycophants of the 
 age), dared to say to King Charles, " I know nothing 
 of Scotch law, but I do know that we should not hang 
 a dog here, on the grounds on which my Lord Argyle 
 has been sentenced." 
 
 Argyle, however, made his escape to the Continent, 
 and thus saved his life for the time being. 
 
 His mainstay in this insurrection was Colonel Rich- 
 ard Rumbold, who had been one of Oliver's Round- 
 heads, who had held a commission in Cromwell's 
 own regiment, had fought at Dunbar and Worcester, 
 and had even guarded the scaffold before the Ban- 
 queting House on the day when the head of King 
 Charles T. rolled into the basket, and at whose house, 
 what is known in history as the Rye House Plot was 
 conceived, and near which it was attempted to be car- 
 ried into execution, but which failed at the last mo- 
 ment by reason of unforeseen circumstances. 
 
 Colonel Rumbold was only in favor of making pris- 
 
476 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 oners of King Charles II., and his brother, the Duke 
 of York, and thus wring from the king certain con- 
 cessions which it was thought the good of the country 
 required, but he had never been in favor of the king's 
 assassination, as many were who were participants in 
 the plot ; this was revolting to the conscience of the 
 brave old soldier, but of course, if the king had hap- 
 pened to be killed in the attack upon the royal coach 
 while surrounded by his guards, this would only have 
 been the fortune of war, and he would have had no 
 qualms of conscience afterwards. However, base in- 
 formers revealed the plot, and Rumbold, more fortunate 
 than the virtuous Lord Russell, Sidney, Essex and 
 others, made his escape to the Continent, and there in 
 exile they pined for their native land, until they saw, 
 as they thought, in Monmouth's rebellion, a chance to 
 return to their fiative land, and the disastrous issue of 
 which cost both of them their lives. 
 
 Rumbold was brought to Edinboro' mortally wounded, 
 but nevertheless, the inhuman James had him exe- 
 cuted, fearing I suppose, as Charles II. remarked to 
 his heartless courtiers on his death-bed, that he would 
 " take an unconscionable time in dying," and his head 
 was already on the west port of Edinboro' , when my 
 Lord Argyle was led to the scaffold, where he died as 
 became a Christian and a patriot. Argyle' s last words 
 were, " Poor iRumbold was a great support to me, and 
 a brave man, and died Christianly." 
 
 The most shameful feature of Argyle' s death, was, 
 that he was not tried for his latest offenses, but he was 
 
ARGYLE AND RUMBOLD 477 
 
 actually beheaded on the sentence which had been so 
 unjustly pronounced against him several years before. 
 I speak thus at length of Argyle and Eumbold, be- 
 cause the noted writer, Geo. W. M. Eeynolds, who so 
 lashed the iniquities of various members of the useless 
 royal family of England, that he was often fined 
 and imprisoned, though it made no difference in re- 
 gard to putting a stop to the productions of his pen, 
 says in his book call the " Mysteries of the Court of 
 Charles II., or the Eye House Plot," in which he 
 paints the corruption and licentiousness of that court, 
 perhaps the most vicious and the most corrupt that the 
 world has ever seen (the court of Louis XIV., or of 
 Catherine II. of Eussia, not excepted), that Argyle 
 and Eumbold were saved at the eleventh hour by par- 
 dons signed in blank which were surreptitiously obtained 
 by some powerful courtier from James II. he not even 
 suspecting that Argyle' s name would be inserted 
 therein, for he hated him ^^vith a deadly hate. He 
 also says that the Governor of the castle suspected 
 that the pardons had been irregularly obtained, be- 
 cause he well knew the feeling which King James had 
 previously entertained towards Argyle in particular, 
 but he dared not disregard the king's sign-manual, not 
 knowing, of course, that the names of Argyle and 
 Eumbold had been inserted without the king's knowl- 
 edge, afterwards, so he let the prisoners go upon 
 condition of their instantly leaving the country for 
 America, but it was generally believed that they were 
 executed. 
 
478 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Reynolds says that Argyle and Rumbold undoubtedly 
 escaped the block, and that history has been falsified 
 on this point, and he showed he believed this the 
 more readily because he always painted the royal 
 family in its various generations in as black colors as 
 he could, and, indeed, in the same book, he asserts that 
 Essex, who was said to have committed suicide in the 
 tower, was assassinated in cold blood by the Duke of 
 York, in order to obtain from him some paper which 
 would seriously have compromised the latter. 
 
 At the corner of the West Bow and the Cowgate is the 
 house where Lord Brougham was born . The West Port 
 at the west end of the Grass Market has an unenviable 
 reputation in connection with the miscreants Burke and 
 Hare in 1827-28, who killed people simply for the few 
 dollars that their bodies would bring at the medical 
 colleges for the purposes of dissection ; and, from which 
 terrible atrocities, the phrase " Burking," has become a 
 portion of the vocabulary of our language. But a 
 great many people in Scotland (and particularly of 
 the lower classes, although it is not confined to them 
 as the sequel will show), of course, know more about 
 this Burke, than they do about the wonderful orator 
 who impeached Warren Hastings, the viceroy of India, 
 in Westminster Hall, " of high crimes and misdemean- 
 ors." 
 
 In proof of this fact, if any were needed, the story 
 is told of a west country magistrate, of good social 
 position, that he once had the honor of dining with 
 Louis Philippe ; and on being asked what his country- 
 
WEST BOW. 479 
 
 men generally thought of Burke, the worthy provost, 
 who it would seem never heard of the Burke who 
 wrote the '* Reflections on the French Revolution," 
 replied — *' 'Deed, your Majestic, I wush ye wad say 
 nae mair aboot him ! it gars me grue (it makes me 
 sick), when I hear the name of the scoondrel ! though 
 atween you and me, I believe Hare was the warst o' the 
 two." 
 
 The West Bow was still a fashionable place a cen- 
 tury ago, when Oliver Goldsmith was a rollicking young 
 medical student in Edinboro' , and in his writings we find 
 the following pen-picture of a fashionable ball of the 
 period given in the Assembly Rooms, which, I presume, 
 would hardly be a fit caricature of the lively, not to 
 say forward manners of the present day, and is chiefly 
 interesting as showing the difference between "our 
 grandfather's days " and the present : — 
 
 * ' When a stranger enters the dancing-room he sees 
 one end of the room taken up with the ladies, who sit 
 dismally in a group by themselves. On the other end 
 stand their passive partners that are to be ; but no 
 more intercourse between the sexes than between two 
 countries at war. The ladies, indeed, may ogle and 
 the gentlemen sigh, but an embargo is laid upon any 
 closer commerce. At length, to interrupt hostilities, 
 the lady directress pitches on a gentleman and lady to 
 walk a minuet which they perform with a formality 
 approaching to despondence. After five or six couples 
 have thus walked the gauntlet, all stand up to country 
 
480 A liNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 dances, each gentleman furnished with a partner from 
 the aforesaid lady-directress. So they dance much and 
 say nothing, and this concludes our Assembly." 
 
 In James' Court, which leads out of the Corn Market, 
 is the house of Boswell, the " bear-leader " (or toady 
 and general /ac^o^wm ) and biographer of Dr. Johnson, 
 before they set out together on their tour to the Hebrides , 
 1773. Boswell's flat was on the ground floor, in the 
 west end of the north side of the court, but the house 
 was destroyed by fire in 1857. Hume, the historian, 
 was also a tenant of James' Court at one time. His 
 house was the second flat above Boswell's, and Boswell 
 succeeded Hume in that house, but afterwards removed 
 to the one below. Hume also lived in Riddle's Close, 
 and began his " History of England " there, and fin- 
 ishing it in Jack's Land in the Canongate. 
 
 We shall now have occasion to use the term 
 *' Close " at intervals, so that we may as well explain 
 at this point what the term means. The old houses of 
 the old town of Edinboro' were mainly built with their 
 gable ends to the street, and in solid blocks, with a 
 view to make them more easily defensible from the 
 occasional forays of plundering clans of Highlanders 
 (which not infrequently occurred in those rude and 
 troublous times), and the only entrance to those 
 houses was by a narrow hall-way called a " Close," 
 which could be easily barricaded against the invaders, 
 and thus the houses made pretty good barracks, and 
 could be much more readily defended from attack. 
 
"Baxter's close." 481 
 
 Each '* Close" has its name inscribed over it in raised 
 letters, and I noticed three of them with such curious 
 names that I made a note of them. 
 
 These three bore the names of *' Big Jack's Close," 
 " Little Jack's Close," and most curious of all, 
 "World's End's Close." 
 
 Now we come to the place which is worthy of note 
 as being the first lodging in Edinboro' occupied by 
 Burns, " The Ayrshire Ploughman" (Baxter's Close, 
 No. 469), in 1786, before he had reached the zenith of 
 his fame. He staid with John Richmond, a law student 
 and clerk, from Mauchline, who himself was a lodger 
 with a Mrs. Carfrae. Her house was the first floor up, 
 on the first stair to the left. 
 
 On his visit to Edinboro', the next year. Burns 
 staid in the top-flat of the southeast corner of St. 
 James' Square (No. 30), in the new town, with his 
 friend William Cruickshank, who was a teacher in the 
 High School. 
 
 We now reach the chief remaining ornament of the 
 High Street of Edinboro' , which is the Cathedral of St. 
 Giles, with its handsome tower and spire. 
 
 In 1829, however, the old church underwent a res- 
 toration, which left very little of the ancient structure, 
 except the tower, with its magnificent spire or lantern, 
 and the massive pillars which still support the magnifi- 
 cent edifice. The exact date of the original erection of 
 the Cathedral here is unknown, although Maitland, in 
 his "History of Edinburgh," assigns it to the year 
 854, and with whom Arnot coincides, but the first men- 
 31 
 
482 A KNTGIIT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 tion to be found of the church is in a charter of David 
 IL,in 1359. 
 
 The chief interest, however, which attaches to St. 
 Giles must ever be because it was here that John 
 Knox made those fiery and soul-stirring appeals to the 
 piety and patriotism of the Scotch metropolis, which 
 perhaps did more than anything to establish the Ref- 
 ormation in Scotland, this being the parish church of 
 Edinboro' at the time. 
 
 West St. Giles was formerly made up of two old 
 churches, the Tolbooth and Haddo's Hall — the latter 
 so-called because Sir John Gordon, of Haddo, was 
 imprisoned in a neighboring apartment, prior to his 
 execution in 1664. It was in the Tolbooth that, ac- 
 cording to tradition, John Knox preached his last ser- 
 mon, and made his last exhortation to sinners to " flee 
 from the wrath to come," Saint Giles being tempora 
 rily shut up. 
 
 The old Tolbooth, or "Heart of Midlothian," is 
 marked at the northwest corner by the figure of a 
 large heart, which is probably five feet in length, and 
 three feet in width, marked on the pavement. 
 
 The Tolbooth was originally used as a Parliament 
 House before the Union, and then as a prison, until in 
 1817, when it was removed, a new jail having been 
 erected that year. James Melville, in his diary, gives 
 the following sjraphic description of Knox's preaching 
 in his last days : — 
 
 "In the opening of his text, he was moderat the 
 space of an halff-houre ; but when he enter it to appli- 
 
ST. GILES' CHURCH. 483 
 
 cation, he made me sa to grew and tremble that I 
 culd nocht hald a pen to wryt. Mr. Knox wuld sum- 
 tyme come in and repose him in our college yard, and 
 call us scholars to him, and bless us and exhort us to 
 know God and his wark in our country, and to stand 
 by the guid caus. I saw him every day of his doc- 
 trine (preaching) go holie and fear (cautiously) with 
 a string of martriks about his neck, a staff in the ane 
 hand, and guid godlie Eichart Ballenden, his servand, 
 haldin up the other oxtar, from the abbey to the 
 paroche Kirk, and by the said Richart and another 
 servand, lifted up to the pulpit, where he behovit to 
 lean at his first entrie, but or he had done with his 
 sermon, he was sa active and vigorous that he was like 
 to ding (beat) that pulpit in blads, and flee out of it." 
 About five years ago, the Murray Window, a memo- 
 rial of the Regent Murray, or Moray (Queen Mary's 
 illegitimate brother), who was assassinated atLinlith- 
 gorr, was placed in Saint Giles, containing six pictures, 
 all bearing upon the Regent's assassination, one of 
 them representing the death of the Regent, and another, 
 John Knox, with his long, brown beard, preaching his 
 funeral sermon, — the *' Good Regent ! " as the people 
 called him, being one of the staunchest reformers 
 among the Scotch nobles, and a great friend and ad- 
 mirer of John Knox. Some idea of the boldness and 
 fearlessness of this man, of whom Regent Morton said 
 after his death, " there lies he who never feared the face 
 of man," may be obtained from the fact that soon after 
 Lord Darnley was married to Queen Mary, and after 
 
484 A ItNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 her proclamation which styled him king, but, never- 
 theless, not associating him with her in the government 
 of Scotland, on the 19th of August, 1565, he attended 
 St. Giles' Church, where Knox, highly edified him by a 
 strong and vigorous sermon, against the government 
 of hoys and women (meaning, of course, him and the 
 Queen), and Knox, no doubt, selected this text on the 
 spur of the moment, upon seeing Darnley in the con- 
 gregation. 
 
 The '« Aid Kirk "of St. Giles, at the south end of 
 the transept, was the scene of the righteous indigna- 
 tion of Jenny Geddes, on that memorable day in 
 1637, when the obnoxious liturgy of Laud, Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury, (who, Macaulay says, " of all the 
 prelates of the Anglican Church had departed farthest 
 from the principles of the Reformation, and had drawn 
 nearest to Rome" ), was to be introduced into Scotland 
 by authority. In no portion of Europe, says Macaulay 
 further, had the Calvinistic doctrine and discipline, 
 which Knox had been disseminating with fiery energy 
 broadcast throughout the land, taken so strong a hold 
 upon the public mind. The effect of all this was that 
 the Church of Rome was regarded, he says, by the 
 great body of the people, with a hatred which 
 might justly be called ferocious, and the Church of 
 England, which seemed to be every day becoming more 
 like the Church of Rome, was an object of scarcely 
 less aversion, to the " unco guid," and (as Burns says,) 
 " Orthodox, orthodox ; wha believed in John Knox." 
 And, moreover, the promulgation of this liturgy, 
 
"GOOD REGENT." 485 
 
 which aped the church of Rome entirely too much 
 to suit the turbulent Scots, finally cost Laud his head, 
 at the hands of Rump Parliament, and among other 
 causes cost King Charles his kingdom and his head as 
 well. 
 
 As it happened, Jenny had taken her stool to church 
 that day, and when the Bishop of Edinboro' had just 
 asked the Dean to read *' the Collect for the day," 
 Jenny burst out: '« Colic! said ye I the De'il colic 
 the wame (belly) o' ye! Wud ye say mass at my 
 lug (ear) I " And with that she lifted her stool, and 
 sent it flying at the Dean's head. The stool is yet to 
 be seen in the Antiquarian Museum, and as Dr. 
 McCrie says, in his biography of John Knox, *' it was 
 well for the Dean that he had learned to " jouk," or 
 the consequences might have been serious." 
 
 There was formerly, also, a monument to the Earl of 
 Murray, the " Good Regent," in the Old Kirk, but in 
 the alterations spoken of above it was destroyed ; but 
 it was restored in facsimile^ by the present Earl of 
 Moray. The memorial window has already been 
 alluded to. 
 
 Near the "Good Regent" (a misnomer, as it would 
 seem, to the more refined notions of the nineteenth 
 century, since he had participated in the conspiracy 
 to assassinate Riccio, and afterwards Darnley as well, 
 but in those rude times the sheddinoj of human blood 
 seemed rather, than otherwise, to recommend a man to 
 the favorable notice of his fellows, and who, it is 
 worthy of note, finally himself died by violence), 
 
486 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 in the cryjits is the tomb of the Marquis of Montrose, 
 which I paid a warder a shilling to show me. The 
 father of the Earl of Argyle, of whose death on the 
 block we have already spoken, was at the head of the 
 faction which put Montrose to death, and he was 
 brought into Edinboro' on a cart in charge of the 
 conamon hangman, on Sunday, May 18th, 1650, and a 
 fine picture illustrative of the scene by James Drum- 
 mond, the Scotch historical painter, is to be seen in 
 the National Gallery in Edinboro' . The cart on which 
 he was placed in manacles was stopped for some time 
 in front of Moray House, from which Argyle, Lorn, 
 Loudon, and others of his enemies gloated over the 
 downfall and degradation of their illustrious rival, and 
 it is even said that the Countess of Haddington so far 
 forgot her sex, her high position, and her dignity of 
 character, as actually to spit upon him. Nailed to the 
 cart are the sword, garter, cross of St. George, and 
 starred cloak of the distinguished victim, together 
 with the history of Scotland, during his guardianship, 
 which was afterwards tied round his neck at his execu- 
 tion. This picture is about six feet by four, and is 
 finely executed. 
 
 His sentence, which is eminently characteristic of 
 the savage cruelty of the age, was that " he should be 
 hanged on a gallows thirty feet high, his head fixed on 
 the Tolbooth of Edinboro', and his body dismembered, 
 and his limbs placed over the gates of the four chief 
 towns of Scotland, — Perth, Stirling, Glasgow, and 
 Aberdeen " — and he was executed May 21st, 1650. 
 
THE OLD CEMETERY. 487 
 
 It was said of him that he was ' ' the noblest of all 
 the Cavaliers," having fought valiantly for King 
 Charles, and prior to that, having been the great leader 
 of the Covenanters, and his epitaph, written by himself, 
 breathes the most earnest Christian faith and hope in 
 every line. It is as follows, taken from his tomb in 
 the gloomy crypts of Saint Giles : — 
 
 " Let them bestow on every airth a limb, 
 Then open all my veins that I may swim 
 To Thee, my Maker, in that crimson lake, 
 Then place my parboiled head upon a stake 
 Scatter my ashes, strew them in the air, 
 Lord, since thou kndwest where all these atoms are 
 I'm hopeful Thou'lt recover once my dust, 
 And confident Thou'lt raise me with the just." 
 
 The ancient cemetery once attached to Saint Giles 
 on the south, is now covered by the pavement and 
 buildings of Parliament Square. 
 
 John Knox was buried in this old cemetery, and in 
 his case, as in Calvin's, there is some doubt as to the 
 exact spot where he is buried; but it is believed by 
 the best authorities that the distinguished Eeformer 
 is buried near the equestrian statue of Charles II. 
 The spot is marked by a square stone set in the ground 
 with only the initials, "J. K." marked upon it, and, 
 to the shame of Edinboro' be it said, this is the only 
 mark that she can show to designate the last resting 
 place of her greatest and most renowned citizen and 
 benefactor. * ' Peace hath her victims no less renowned 
 than war," and this, almost the greatest of the fol- 
 lowers of the Prince of Peace, has no monument in the 
 
488 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 city of Edinboro' save in the hearts of her people, and 
 his house is to them, as well as to wandering pilgrims, 
 what Mecca is to the pious Mussulman. 
 
 Glasgow, however, has outstripped Edinboro' in this 
 regard, and the most conspicuous monument in her 
 beautiful Necropolis is that erected to the memory of 
 the great leader who, together with Calvin, Luther, and 
 Erasmus, shares the glory of the Eeformation, which 
 was mainly accomplished through their untiring and 
 gigantic efforts. 
 
 The sittings of the Parliament and the College of 
 Justice were transferred from the old Tolbooth of Saint 
 Giles to the Parliament House in 1639. In the middle 
 of the square there is an equestrian statue, in lead, of 
 Charles II., erected by the city corporation in 1685. 
 It is believed to have been sculptured in Holland, 
 but the name of the artist is unknown. 
 
 It is a curious circumstance, and one which shows 
 the fickleness of the human mind, and its tendency to 
 worship him whose star is in the ascendant, and to for- 
 get all past obligations and memories as soon as possi- 
 ble, that the site was originally destined for a statue of 
 the Protector, Cromwell, during the Commonwealth, 
 and the model of the great Roundhead leader was 
 actually in existence when the Restoration took place, 
 and the magistrates of Edinboro', quick 
 
 " To crook the pregnant hinges of the knee 
 Where thrift may follow fawning," 
 
 at once relegated Oliver to obscurity, and gave orders 
 for a statue of the "Merry e Monarch," which was 
 afterwards erected on the identical spot. 
 
advocate's library. 489 
 
 The fulsome and preposterously overdrawn inscrip- 
 tion in Latin on the pedestal was discovered among a 
 lot of old lumber below the Parliament House, when 
 the statue was erected, after the great fire in the old 
 town in 1824. 
 
 I translated a portion of it which I give below, and 
 I no longer wondered that the magistrates did not wish 
 to stultify their manhood and their honesty, by certi- 
 fying to the character of, perhaps, the most corrupt and 
 worthless of the many bad monarchs of England, and 
 that they left to their successors, one hundred and 
 fifty years later, the humiliating task of having placed 
 in its present position, this testimonial to their own 
 disgrace. 
 
 The inscription is several feet in length, and its 
 opening sentence is entirely in keeping with its con- 
 clusion. 
 
 It begins thus : — 
 
 " To the most august and magnificent Charles II. 
 
 King of Britain, Gaul, and Ireland, 
 The most invincible monarch," etc., ad nauseam. 
 
 From the Parliament House, you enter the Advo- 
 cate's Library, which like the British Museum, has the 
 privilege of receiving a copy of every book published 
 in the United Kingdom. 
 
 It contains already 150,000 volumes, and many hun- 
 dreds of valuable MSS., among which are several 
 copies of the solemn League and Covenant, with the 
 original subscriptions, some of which are even written 
 with the very blood of the subscribers. 
 
490 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Passing on down the High Street, for we are now 
 getting impatient (as, perhaps, our readers as well) to 
 reach John Knox's house, and Holyrood Palace, we 
 pass Dunbar's Close which was the headquarters of 
 Cromwell's "Ironsides," after the battle of Dunbar 
 enabled him to gain possession of the castle and city 
 of Edinboro', and Cromwell himself occupied an old 
 house near the guard-room, the latter having been 
 recently removed. 
 
 Tradition says that Cromwell was in the habit of prom- 
 enading on the flat stone roof of his lodging here, and 
 whence he would give an occasional glance towards the 
 Firth of Forth in order to reassure himself that his 
 fleet was still secure. 
 
 Now we come to a house made forever famous by its 
 association with Robert Burns, and other intellectual 
 luminaries of Scotland (the Anchor Close, No. 243), 
 where formerly stood the printing office of William 
 Smellie, who here corrected the proofs of the Edin- 
 boro' edition of his poems, and it was here, also, were 
 printed the first editions of many of the works of Dr. 
 Blixir, Robertson the historian, Adam Ferguson, 
 Hume, and Adam Smith, whose valuable book, " The 
 Wealth of Nations," laid the cornerstone of the Sci- 
 ence of Political Economy. " The Crochallan Fenci- 
 bles," of whom Burns was a boon companion, met in a 
 tavern in Anchor Close. 
 
 On we go down the High Street, and next we see an 
 antique looking church, which sits back from the street 
 some distance called the Trone Church, from the 
 
HIGH STREET. 491 
 
 ' ' Trone,' ' or weighing beam , which once stood near, and 
 to which in. olden times, false witnesses were nailed by 
 the ear, as a warning to perjurers, and, methinks, from 
 the average results which we see every day of the pro- 
 ceedings of our courts of justice, that we might copy, 
 with advantage, the custom of the " Trone," barbarous 
 though it be, for the benefit of our malefactors of this 
 class, whose name is legion. 
 
 Directly opposite the Trone Church is the under- 
 ground shop (No. 177 High Street), where tradition 
 says that the articles of Union between Scotland and 
 England were finally subscribed, early in the last century. 
 Some of the commissioners had already signed the ar- 
 ticles in the Parliament House, but those who had not 
 done so, had met for the purpose in a summer house, 
 behind Moray House, Ganongate, but the mob not ap- 
 proving of the Union, forced them to withdraw 
 before completing their signatures, which they finally 
 did in secret at No. 177. 
 
 Carrubbers' Close (No. 135) is notable in the history 
 of Protestantism as the meeting place to which the 
 Episcopalians were reduced, on the downfall of the 
 prelatic establishment, which twenty-seven years of 
 bloody persecution by " Kirke's Lambs," Graham of 
 Claverhouse, and others, (and which resulted in the 
 death of thousands of martyrs') failed to force upon 
 Presbyterian Scotland. 
 
 Still farther down the High Street, and on the same 
 side, Strichen's Close (No. 104), has the unenviable 
 distinction of having been the residence of Sir George 
 
492 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Mackenzie, King's Advocate during the reign of Charles 
 II., and well known in Scottish Martyrology as " The 
 Bliiidy Mackenzie," and whose cruelty and oppression 
 in Scotland were hardly surpassed in infamy by Jeffeys 
 of " The Bloody Assizes," in England, after the defeat 
 of Monmouth in 1685, at Sedgmoor. 
 
 At last we reach John Knox's house, and we have at 
 this point come up, with the fourth member of the 
 great Quadrivirate (if I may make so bold as to coin a 
 word), who accomplished the work of the Eeformation, 
 having already visited Geneva the home of Calvin, 
 Basle where Erasmus is buried, and Worms, where 
 Luther stood his great trial for heresy, and came forth 
 triumphant, as did of old Meshach, Shadrach, and Ab- 
 ednego from the fiery furnace. 
 
 The house (No. 47), projects into the street at the 
 Netherbow, and is^ in a fairly good state of preserva- 
 tion, as the original oak panelling of the walls has 
 been replaced by wood taken from other old Edinboro' 
 houses of the same period. Over the door is the in- 
 scription, no doubt placed there at the instance of 
 Knox himself, " Lufe God abufe al,"and yi nychtbour 
 asyiself." There is a projection on the south front, 
 which was added to the house for its increased accom- 
 modation, and which was Knox's favorite resort, and 
 which he called the " warm study of daillis" (that is 
 made of planks or boards). 
 
 Knox lived in that house from 1560 to 1572. Many 
 a grave consultation, pregnant with great national 
 issues, has been held in this famous old building, and 
 
JOHN KNOX's HOUSE. 493 
 
 many a cheerful supper the great Keformer had here 
 with his friends. Though the care of all the churches 
 of Scotland, and even the nation itself, pressed heavily 
 on his spirits more or less at all times, yet he never 
 utterly despaired, and always believed in the ultimate 
 success of the good cause. 
 
 He was a man of a very different temperament from 
 the narrow-minded and dogmatic Calvin, and was by 
 no means the sullen and morose fanatic that he has 
 been represented, by critics unfriendly to the cause and 
 the grand results of the Reformation. 
 
 No man enjoyed social intercourse more than he, 
 when he had a fair opportunity for it. Only a few 
 days before his death, he desired his servant to broach a 
 a cask of wine which had been presented to him, that 
 he might share it with some friends who were paying 
 him a visit, as he remarked that he was " not like to 
 tarry till it be finished." 
 
 He died in the sixty-seven year of his age, Novem- 
 ber 24th, 1572, just exactly three months after the 
 horrible butchery of the Protestants of France, and, 
 doubtless, the sorrow and agony that Knox must have 
 felt at this terrible catastrophe, which, like lightning 
 from a clear sky, had so unexpectedly befallen the 
 Huguenots, hastened the end of this great champion of 
 Christendom. 
 
 Knox had been married twice, having two sons by 
 his first wife, and three daughters by his second wife. 
 His widow afterwards married a gentleman of landed 
 
494 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 estate, and consequently removed to the country, and 
 took the furniture of the household with her to her 
 new home, which probably accounts for the fact that 
 there is nothing of the original furniture now to be 
 seen in the house, with the exception of a large arm- 
 chair. 
 
 This chair was restored to the house of John Knox 
 by a son of Doctor McCrie, who was the pastor of 
 McCrie Free Church, in Richmond Street, Edinboro, 
 and about two hundred years after Knox's death wrote 
 his biography. 
 
 As I had already seated myself in Calvin's chair at 
 Geneva, I thought I might as well do the same by Knox 
 in Edinboro, so I seated myself in this chair, and for a 
 few minutes amused myself by leisurely turning over 
 the leaves of Knox's " History of the Reformation," 
 and scanning a curious passage here and there, and 
 while so doing I came upon one extract, which so well 
 explains his attitude towards the Stuarts and the in- 
 creasing power of Rome in Scotland, that I transcribe 
 it here, at the risk of being a little tedious, and then 
 leave the subject to abler pens than mine. 
 
 Mary of Guise, the mother of Mary, Queen of Scots, 
 after the death of her husband, James V., who died 
 when the future Queen of Scots was but a week old, 
 was, of course, the Queen Regent of Scotland until her 
 death, and the accession of" Queen Mary, and to her 
 Knox alludes in the following passage : — 
 
 * ' We are compelled unwillingly to answer the 
 
KNOX'S HISTORY. 495 
 
 grievous accusations laid to our cliarges by the Queen 
 Regent, and her perverse counsell, v^ho cease not by 
 all craft and malice to make us odious to our dearest 
 brethren, naturall Scottish men, as that we pretended 
 no other thing, but the subversion and overthrow of 
 all just authoritie, when God knoweth we fought 
 nothing but that such authoritie as God approveth by 
 His word be established, honoured and obeyed amongst 
 us. True it is, that we have complained (and contin- 
 ually must complaine, till God send redresse), that our 
 common countrey is oppreffed with strangers, that this 
 inbringing of soldiers with their wives and children, 
 and planting of men of war in our free towns, appear- 
 eth to us a ready way to conquest. 
 
 "And we most earnestly require all indifferent per- 
 sons to be judge betwixt us and the Queen Regent in 
 this cause, to wit, whether our complaint be just or 
 not ? For what other purpof e should she thus multi- 
 ply ftrangers upon us, out only in respect of conquest, 
 which is a thing of late devised by her, and her avari- 
 tious houfe." 
 
 Knox's History of the Reformation, Book Second, 
 p. 186, printed in London 1644, and in another place, 
 he calls the Queen Regent's troops, " new throat cut- 
 ters." 
 
49(5 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 EDINBORO' CONTINUED — THE SCOTCH LAKES — GLASGOW, 
 AND HOMEWARD BOUND. 
 
 ^^^^Y this time, our anxiety to reach Holyrood Pal- 
 ^^ ace becomes intense, and we can hardly give due 
 attention to what we see around us, but as the Canon- 
 gate is the last portion of the High Street between the 
 Castle and Palace (the High Street bearing the same 
 relation to these historic hills that Pennsylvania Ave- 
 nue does to the Capitol and the White House at Wash- 
 ington, the President being familiarly known as " the 
 man at the other end of the Avenue"), and there are 
 several things of interest to be seen here, we will 
 stop a few minutes as we pass by, at any rate. The 
 Canongate was begun in the early part of the twelfth- 
 century, (and its antique and time-stained buildings, 
 indeed, look much older than that) by the Augustine 
 Canons of Holyrood, who ruled as a burgh of regality, 
 under a charter from King David I., and many of the 
 houses yet retain the venerable appearance of the 
 ancient court end of the city. 
 
 These Closes are now, however, inhabitated by the 
 very tag-rag and bobtail of the city of Edinboro' , and at 
 some places on the High Street it was all that I could 
 do to get through the crowds of rough looking men and 
 slatternly and dirty-looking women, and the still 
 
EDINBORO'S FIRST THEATER. «s 497 
 
 dirtier and lialf-nalsed children who were congregated 
 here and there at the entrance of these Closes ; but no 
 longer ago than the latter part of the last century, 
 this portion of the High Street in particular, was 
 inhabited by many persons of social distinction, and 
 by the high and mighty in every walk of life. 
 
 The Playhouse Close (No. 200) is noted as the site 
 of the first theater erected in Edinboro' in 1746. 
 James VI., of Scotland, and his grandson, the Duke of 
 York, afterwards James II. of England, encouraged the 
 the Drama by liberal subsidies, but the " cannie 
 Scots" still felt the influence of John Knox, and did not 
 take much interest in the Play-house. 
 
 In the succeeding generation, however, public opin- 
 ion had become more liberal, and had changed so 
 greatly that when the divine Mrs. Siddons, with all her 
 beauty and talent, made her debut in Edinboro', accord- 
 ing to Dr. Carlyle, she electrified the whole city to that 
 degree, " that w^hen she first appeared in Edinburgh 
 during the sitting of the General Assembly, that Court 
 was obliged to fix all its important business for the 
 alternate days when she did not act, as all the younger 
 members of the clergy, as well as the laity, took their 
 stations in the theater on those days by three in the 
 afternoon." 
 
 The theater in which Mrs. Siddons performed was 
 erected in 1769, and for many years the Edinboro' 
 company was reckoned equal to the best London play- 
 ers, but it has since been removed to make room for 
 the new post oflSce, while the old play-house was 
 
 32 
 
498 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 demolished many years ago, to make room for dwelling 
 houses. 
 
 In St. John Street, which enters from the Canon- 
 gate through an archway a few steps further on, was 
 the residence of Tobias Smollett, who wrote a history 
 of England, besides continuing Hume's great history, 
 after the death of the latter, who translated Voltaire 
 and Don Quixote, and who, "as an author, distin- 
 guished himself as an historian, a novelist, a journal- 
 ist of travels, a dramatist, and a poet; and who must 
 be acknowledged to have made a considerable addition 
 to the stock of elegant and useful literature," and, 
 nevertheless, while he and Fielding both stood ac- 
 knowledged facile principeSi and as at the head of En- 
 glish writers of fiction, yet both died in comparative 
 obscurity and neglect. The next building, on the 
 same side, was the headquarters of the Canongate Kil- 
 winning Lodge of Freemasons, where Robert Burns 
 was exalted to the most sublime degree of a Royal 
 Arch Mason, and dubbed Poet Laureate of the Lodge. 
 Burns was an enthusiastic and earnest Freemason, as 
 any one will easily see by an examination of his beauti- 
 ful verses. For the edification of my Masonic breth- 
 ren, T will here quote a portion of the poem entitled 
 ''Invitation to a Medical Gentleman to attend a 
 Masonic Anniversary Meeting," on St. John's Day, 
 the 24th of June : — 
 
 « Friday First's the day appointed, 
 By our Right Worshipful anointed, 
 To hold our grand procession ; 
 
THE POET LAUREATE. 499 
 
 To get a blade o' Johnny's morals, 
 
 And taste a swatch (sample) o' Mausin's barrel. 
 
 r the way of our profession, 
 
 Our Master and the Brotherhood 
 
 Wad a' be glad to see you ; 
 
 For me, I would be mair than proud 
 
 To share the mercies with you." 
 
 The poet was also a frequent and an honored guest, 
 at No. 13, the residence of Lord Monboddo, and his 
 beautiful daughter, Miss Burnet, who was one of the 
 greatest beauties of her time, but who died at the age 
 of twenty-three, of consumption, and to whom he ad- 
 dressed his touching elegy, beginning thus: — 
 
 " Life ne'er exulted in so rich a prize 
 As Burnet, lovely from her native skies ; 
 Nor envious Death so triumphed in a blow 
 As that which laid th' accomplished Burnet low." 
 
 She must have been surpassingly lovely, for the en- 
 raptured poet speaks of her as ' ' the heavenly Miss 
 Burnet, in a letter to his friend, William Chalmers, 
 and says: " There has not been anything nearly like 
 her in all the combinations of beauty, grace, and good- 
 ness the Creator has formed, since Milton's Eve on 
 the first day of her existence." Her father. Lord 
 Monboddo, by the way, propounded the theory that 
 the hupian family is descended from the monkey tribe, 
 long before this theory was broached by the modern 
 school of scientists of which Darwin is the chief ex- 
 ponent, and of course he was sneered at, and made the 
 butt of many a jest by his contemporaries, who called 
 him " eccentric," but it was, no doubt, the eccentric- 
 
500 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 ity of genius. It is said that he was frequently beset 
 with the jocular request, " show us your tail, Mon- 
 boddo?" 
 
 No. 10 St. John St. was the residence of James 
 Ballantine, the printer of the original editions of the 
 " Waverly," novels, when all the world was agog to 
 know who was the great author of the wonderful 
 series of romances which startled the literary world 
 especially with conjectures as to the identity of the 
 brilliant star which had just shot, athwart the horizon 
 of letters, and whose failure involved Sir Walter Scott 
 as a partner in liabilities to the enormous amount of 
 £125,000 or $625,000, which Sir Walter paid by the 
 most untiring energy and unremitting labor, coupled 
 with the immense popularity of everything which fell 
 from his pen — but it cost him his life. 
 
 Ballantine always gave a dinner to the prominent 
 Literati of the Scottish capital upon the occasion of 
 the publication of one of Sir Walter Scott's produc- 
 ductions, and these symposia were among the most 
 notable gatherings which ever took place in the British 
 Isles, as Edinboro' at that time was the nucleus of much 
 of the talent of the United Kingdom. 
 
 The Canongate Tolbooth and court-house, with its 
 clock projecting over the street, like the houses of the 
 period of Queen Anne in various parts of England 
 and Scotland, is a fine specimen of the Scottish archi- 
 tecture of the time of James VI. High up on the 
 building is the inscription Patriae et Posteris and the 
 date 1591. Singularly enough, the inscription over the 
 
CANONGATE CHURCH. 501 
 
 entrance is Sic itur ad astra, the entrance to a prison 
 house and place of justice being hardly a proper in- 
 troduction to the " strait and narrow way," unless the 
 prisoners could be brought to believe, like Uriah Heep, 
 that " it would be better for every body, if they got 
 took up and was brought here." 
 
 In front of the building, at the east end, there is 
 yet an old stone pillar, to which certain offenders, par- 
 ticularly scolds and slanderers, were fastened by jougs 
 or iron collars, and the iron staple to which the jougs 
 were fastened may still be seen upon the pillar. 
 
 We are in the habit very often of speaking of our 
 ancestors as having been old-fogy, and all that sort of 
 thing, but they had some customs which might have 
 been handed down to our day with great advantage ; 
 and these ancient modes of punishment for slanderers, 
 scolds, and perjurers, would no doubt have a salutary 
 effect upon modern evil-doers, could they only be 
 re-introduced by some daring innovator. 
 
 Next door to the Tolbooth is the old Canongate 
 Church, which was erected in the year 1688 — the no- 
 table year in which the Papist King James II. ignobly 
 forsook his kingdom and his crown upon the arrival 
 from Holland of William and Mary, the Prince and 
 Princess of Orange, who, upon their accession to the 
 throne which James had filled so unworthily, made 
 England once more a Protestant country ; and from 
 that day none but those who held the faith of the Church 
 of England have been allowed to sit upon the throne of 
 
502 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 that majestic empire, whose proud boast it is that 
 *' upon her dominions the sun never sets." 
 
 The churchyard, however, demands a visit, for 
 here are entombed some of the brightest Literateurs of 
 Scotland. 
 
 First and foremost, we shall mention one who lies 
 there because the self-same all-important topics upon 
 which he was the first to write learnedly and philo- 
 sophically, is at the very moment while I write dis- 
 ti acting this great country of ours from center to 
 circumference, and which, in fact, is the main dis- 
 tinffuishino; feature of and essential difference between, 
 the two great political parties of this country ; I mean, 
 of course, the doctrine of Free Trade, and I 
 allude to its first great apostle and luminous expon- 
 ent, Adam Smith, the author of the book which has, 
 next to the Bible and Shakespeare, perhaps produced 
 more controversy than any other production with 
 which we are acquainted — because as everybody 
 knows, the government of no country can be success- 
 fully carried on unless its finances, which are, of 
 course, the keystone of the whole structure, are 
 administered upon sound and economic principles. 
 
 Other distinguished dead are here, chief among them, 
 Dugald Stewart, another noted professor of Moral 
 Philosophy in the University of Glasgow ; Dr. Adam 
 Ferguson, the historian of the Eoman Republic ; David 
 Allen, the artist ; and the poet Robert Ferguson, who 
 like Chatterton, the youthful forger of Black Letter 
 
OLD SCOTTISH LAW. 503 
 
 Literature, who confounded and deceived for a long 
 time the best literary talent of Europe as to the genu- 
 ineness of his wonderfully clever productions, and 
 who, like him, also died under the most lamentable 
 circumstances; Eobert Burns so much revered the 
 memory of Ferguson, whom he called his *' elder 
 brother in the Muses," that poor and needy as he 
 was, out of the very first installment of the money 
 which he received from the Edinboro' edition of his 
 poems, he devoted so much as was necessary to erect 
 a suitable monument to the memory of the talented 
 and lamented Ferguson, with an inscription written by 
 his own hand. 
 
 By this time we are almost under the very walls of 
 ancient Holy rood, and have reached the Abbey Sanc- 
 tuary, which (like the sanctuary of olden times, when 
 even the murderer was safe from pursuers could he 
 but reach the altar, even of some heathen god) yet in 
 conjunction with Arthur's seat, Salisbury Crags, and 
 the Queen's Park, constitutes the only remaining 
 sanctuary in Scotland. 
 
 This portion of my, I fear, uninteresting descrip- 
 tion of Edinboro' is, by the way, for the benefit of my 
 friends of the legal profession who, I trust, will 
 relish it as a matter of interest in the history of the 
 Scottish law, if for no other reason. 
 
 Protection is here afibrded only to debtors, and 
 fraudulent bankrupts are excluded, of course, so that 
 the privilege is probably not greatly abused. 
 
 These " protections " are issued at the Abbey 
 
504 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Court House, where the " Bailie of the Abbey," tries 
 such offenses as may come within his jurisdiction. 
 The Abbey Bailie is appointed by the Duke of Hamil- 
 ton, who is the hereditary keeper of the palace. 
 
 Many amusing and curious anecdotes are related, 
 even to this day, of the many hair-breadth escapes of 
 the "Abbey Lairds" (as these poor fugitives were 
 called in the olden times) from their unfortunate 
 creditors, and the bailiffs who were always on the 
 lookout to pounce upon them unawares. 
 
 Sunday was a day especially welcome to the Abbey 
 Lairds, because on that day, by the law of Scotland, 
 they were at liberty to go where they chose, but woe 
 to any unlucky wight if he transgressed the hour, for 
 then he was generally in for a long chase at the hands 
 of the bumbailiffs, who were always on their trail ; but, 
 (like the witches who pursued Tam O'Shanter, " who 
 could not cross a running stream," and had to content 
 themselves with a portion of the tail of his old grey 
 mare, Meg) they dared not cross the sacred strand of 
 the Canongate, and hence they always " made the best 
 time they could " before their victims could reach the 
 sanctuary. 
 
 It is said that upon one occasion, a fugitive who was 
 hotly pursued by the bailiffs as usual, fell just as he 
 reached the strand. His body fell over the " dead 
 line," but his legs were seized upon before he could 
 regain his feet. He was thereupon taken into court, 
 and there then ensued much debating and citation of 
 authorities j3ro and con by the learned barristers, and 
 
A KNOTTY CASE. 505 
 
 then by the big wigs in the Parliament House, as alike 
 case had never before come up for judgment, and the 
 precedent which they were about to fix would, of course, 
 be an important one, as to whether the fugitive was 
 legally in custody, as only his legs had been captured 
 at the original taking. 
 
 Finally, however, after long deliberation it was de- 
 cided that as the bailiff could do nothing with the man's 
 legs, unless he had the body they belonged to, and as the 
 man's body was clearly proven to be over the sanctuary, 
 the debtor must be allowed, in contemplation of law, to 
 be where his head and body were, and hence he must be 
 discharged from custody, on the principle, I suppose, 
 of the homely adage that "the tail goes with the 
 hide ; " but this is not always the case, but as the gram- 
 mars say " the exception proves the rule," and I read 
 only the other day an amusing story which shows that 
 " the tail does not always go with the hide," but in the 
 case I speak of, the tail went with the other cow. It 
 seems that in New Jersey, not long ago, a mischievous 
 boy tied the tail of a cow which his father owned, to the 
 tail of a neighbor's cow. The cows, however, nat- 
 urally soon desired to go each her own way, which, of 
 course, produced a kicking tournament, and the result 
 was that the cow belonging to the boy's father ran 
 away with her own tail, and the tail of the other cow 
 as well, and the result of the joke was that a jury 
 assessed the value of the abstracted caudal appendage 
 at $10, which the father of the hopeful youth had to 
 pay. 
 
506 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Of course, you pay something as usual to see Holy- 
 rood, but it is only a sixpence, and you procure you 
 a ticket, and hasten on to see particularly the scene 
 of Queen Mary's high disputes with John Knox, and 
 the little banquet room where Eiccio was assassinated 
 before the very eyes of the Queen. 
 
 The first house which was erected on the site of the 
 present Palace of Holyrood, was the Abbey, founded 
 by David I., and named Holyrood Abbey, because, 
 according to an ancient monkish legend, a cross of 
 wood like the " holy rude " (or Holy Cross) was 
 miraculously placed in his hands, and frightened off a 
 large stag which he had brought to bay near the castle 
 rock, and which was about to thrust him with his 
 antlers. It is said that there was an old abbey at the 
 foot of the castle rock prior to the foundation of Holy- 
 rood Abbey, and it is probable that the monks were 
 removed from this Abbey to Holyrood. • 
 
 The palace is a large quadrangular building, with a 
 court yard about 100 feet square, and when I visited the 
 palace a member of the 92nd (Gordon) Highlanders, 
 was on guard, and was parading majestically up and 
 down before the palace, with his picturesque uniform, 
 which is, I think, the handsomest in the world, with 
 his plaid kilt, and scarlet jacket, his tartan scarf over 
 his shoulder and his knees bare to the calf of his leg, 
 with a dagger in his fancy colored stocking, his white 
 gaiters, and his plorran hanghig down in front, and 
 his big shako, all made a striking picture ; and the 
 Highland costume for a boy is very handsome, indeed. 
 
HOLYROOD PALACE. 507 
 
 and in the cities of England and Scotland it is affected 
 by a great many. 
 
 These Scotch Highlanders wear the same costume 
 winter and summer, and when I first saw them, I was 
 at once reminded of a story which I had heard a legal 
 friend of mine who is a first-rate raconteur (Judge 
 A — is his name, by the way), tell about a certain man 
 who was once being examined in a court of justice in 
 regard to a certain transaction. 
 
 The man stammered habitually, and when the ques- 
 tion was asked him as to how he was dressed upon a 
 certain occasion, he after some hesitation, stutteringly 
 replied, that he " was dressed coo-coo-coo-1," and it 
 occurred to me that the Scotch Highlanders looked 
 very picturesque for summer, but for winter, they too, 
 were dressed rather " cool." 
 
 But this is a digression, and we must hurry on to 
 more important matters. 
 
 The only portion of the. palace which is of much an- 
 tiquity is the northwest tower, in which are Queen 
 Mary's apartments, and which is the portion of the 
 palace which visitors are especially anxious to see, 
 because here everything is permeated by the surround- 
 ings of the beautiful and unhappy Queen. Upon reach- 
 ing Queen Mary's rooms, the first, and with the 
 exception of the little banqueting chamber, in many 
 respects the most interesting apartment is the audi- 
 ence chamber, which, like the other rooms, is decorated 
 with tapestry, and a very handsome oak-paneled ceil- 
 ing. This room has been made forever famous by 
 
508 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 the controversies which took place here between the 
 Queen and her much-hated opponent, John Knox. 
 Upon one occasion Knox presented himself at Holy- 
 rood, carrying with him, as was his wont, a well- 
 thumbed copy of the Scriptures, and Queen Mary 
 suggested to him that he should more nearly follow 
 the precepts of the Gospel which he preached, and the 
 example of the *'meek and lowly Jesus," whom he 
 had taken for his exemplar, and accordingly "use 
 more meekness in his sermons," but the fiery Knox 
 blazed forth at her so fiercely in reply, and " knocked 
 so hastily upon her heart, that he made Queen Mary 
 weep." Amid her tears of anguish and indignation, 
 she said to Knox: *' My subjects, it would appear, 
 must obey you, and not me ; I must be subject to them, 
 not they to me." After some further altercation, 
 Knox was dismissed from royal presence, and he left 
 Holyrood, fully of the conviction that Queen Mary's 
 soul was lost forever, and that her conversion from 
 Romanism was hopeless, because she would persist 
 *' in her massing, and despised and quickly mocked all 
 exhortations." 
 
 Here, too, it was that Mary demanded of the 
 Reformer, " think you that subjects having the power, 
 may resist their princes? " and received the bold reply, 
 "If princes exceed their bounds. Madam, no doubt 
 they may be resisted even by power." Here, too, it 
 was, when the Queen turned her back in anger on her 
 faithful monitor ( who might, perhaps, have changed the 
 current of her life, and eventually have altered her sad 
 
HISTORIC ROOMS. 509 
 
 fate, had she but listened to his advice in the same 
 kindly spirit in which it had been tendered), that Knox 
 who never missed an opportunity of speaking a word 
 in season, addressed himself to her maids of honor, 
 the four Marys: Mary Fleming, Mary Bethune, Mary 
 Livingstone, and Mary Seton, and others of her court 
 whom he thus solemnly admonished: — 
 
 *' O fair ladies, how pleasing were this lyfe of yours 
 if it would always abyde, and then, in the end that ye 
 pass to heaven with all this gay gear ! But fie upon 
 the Knave Death, that will come whether we will or 
 not, and when he has laid on his arrest, the foul worms 
 will be busy with his flesh, be it never so fair and 
 tender ; and the silly soul, I fear, shall be so feeble, 
 that it can carry with it gold, garnishing, targatting, 
 pearl, nor precious stones." 
 
 At the entrance to the audience chamber is the spot 
 to which Riccio (Rizzio, as they spell it in Scotland), 
 was dragged from the banquet-room through Queen 
 Mary's bed-room and the audience-room, after he had 
 been repeatedly stabbed by the conspirators, and as it 
 is said that blood will remain for centuries in wood, it 
 may be that it is really the blood of the unfortunate 
 Spanish secretary, but at any rate, whether it be the 
 blood of Rizzio or not, at any rate the flooring is curi- 
 ously discolored. 
 
 Queen Mary's bed-room contains Queen Mary's bed, 
 her work box, and portraits of Henry VIII., and her 
 cousin. Queen Elizabeth; in the audience chamber 
 
510 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABEOAD. 
 
 is to be seen a grate, which is said to be the 
 first one which was ever used in Scotland. The 
 . bed-room communicates with the small supper room 
 at which,' at the time of Riccio's assassination, were 
 seated six persons beside herself, although it is so 
 very small that when I went into the room I wondered 
 where they found room for the table at all. 
 
 The conspirators were admitted to the palace by 
 Lord Darnley, and came through his apartments up a 
 private stair-case which opens into Queen Mary's bed- 
 room and directly adjoining her supper-room. 
 
 Darnley threw his arms around the Queen and held 
 her, while Ruthven, George Douglas, and others of the 
 conspirators attacked Rizzio. They rushed in so vio- 
 lent that they upset the supper table upon the floor, and 
 Riccio seeing that they sought his life, sprang behind 
 the Queen, exhorting her to save him, but nevertheless, 
 Douglas stabbed him over the Queen's shoulder with 
 the King's dagger which he had snatched from its sheath 
 and left it sticking in the wound. Mary begged 
 earnestly for his life, but all to no purpose ; but when 
 she learned that he was dead, she dried her tears, and 
 said, " I will now study revenge," and afterwards 
 when Ruthven, still dripping with Rizzio's blood, had 
 the presumption to return to the presence of the Queen 
 and ask for a glass of wine, she said to him, *' It shall 
 be dear blude to some of you." These declarations, 
 for which allowance should be made, because uttered 
 under very exciting circumstances, and while undergo- 
 
QUEEN MARY. 511 
 
 ing a very trying ordeal, (and it should "be remembered, 
 also, that the Queen was in delicate health at the time, 
 her son, afterwards King James I. of England, 
 having been born but a short time subsequent to this 
 tragedy), coupled with the subsequent death of Darnley 
 by violence, and her marriage to Bothwell, his un- 
 doubted murderer, were afterwards remembered to her 
 disadvantage, and have largely contributed to involve 
 her memory in the obloquy from which she has ever 
 suffered in the opinion of many, but as many authori- 
 ties think, most unjustly. 
 
 One of the most notable pictures in the National 
 Gallery in Edinboro', represents the death of Eiz- 
 zio, and is by the artist Johnstone, of the Eoyal Scotch 
 Academy. 
 
 I shall conclude this sketch of Queen Mary with a 
 few reasons for the belief which is strong within me, 
 that the beautiful and unfortunate Queen of Scots was 
 never untrue to Lord Darnley in word or deed, and 
 they are these : — 
 
 In the first place, Darnley was young and good look- 
 ing, and as Queen Mary herself said of him, " he was 
 the properest and best proportioned long man that ever 
 she had seen," while Riccio, her alleged paramour, is- 
 described by some contemporary writers as being a man 
 advanced in years, of unpleasant features, and some- 
 what deformed in person, and is it at all likely that 
 Queen Mary would have engaged in a low vulgar 
 intrigue with a person like that, and so far inferior in 
 rank and position to herself at that? 
 
512 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 Moreover, Queen Mary, had she been disposed, 
 could have found a lover in the person of Chastelard, 
 who came in her suite from France, who was a grand- 
 nephew of the illustrious Chevalier Bayard himself, 
 and who was said also to resemble him, and who was 
 of the middle height, very handsome, of a spare figure, 
 and was clever, having a talent both for music and 
 poetry. 
 
 Queen Mary often conversed with this handsome 
 young man, because he was possessed of a fine address 
 and genteel manners, and, best of all, could talk to 
 her of France, the country of her adoption, and which 
 she loved so well, and of which she had been for a 
 time the youthful queen. 
 
 This young man, in an evil hour, fancied from the 
 Queen's condescension that she entertained a guilty 
 passion for him, and concealed himself in the Queen's 
 bed-chamber, but he was fortunately discovered by the 
 Queen's attendants before Mary had retired. 
 
 Upon being informed of his extraordinary conduct, 
 the Queen at once ordered him from her presence and 
 from the palace forever, but presuming upon her for- 
 mer forbearance, Chastelard afterwards repeated the 
 offense while the Queen was making a progress from 
 Holyrood to Fife, which cost the infatuated young 
 man his life. 
 
 Now, who shall say that Queen Mary ignored and 
 rejected the passion of this well born youth, to submit 
 to the licentious embrace of a low born Italian 
 menial ? 
 
HOLYROOD CHAPEL. 513 
 
 I will never believe it, and shall always be of the 
 opinion that Queen Mary has been most foully and 
 unjustly aspersed, and that, at length after a weary 
 imprisonment of more than eighteen years at the hands 
 of Queen Elizabeth, she fell an innocent victim on the 
 block to Jealous and wholly unfounded suspicions, by 
 the cruel and unjustifiable mandate of that 
 
 *' false woman, 
 
 Her sister and her fae." 
 
 Holyrood Chapel is all that remains of the old 
 Abbey, and of the ancient structure nothing remains 
 'but the walls, the roof having fallen in many years 
 since, and never having been restored ; but much of the 
 architecture of the remaining portion of the venerable 
 and historic ruin, is said by competent critics to belong 
 to the architecture of a period much later. 
 
 For example, the arcade on the western wall of the 
 abbey affords a beautiful illustration of the transition 
 from the Roman to the Gothic arch ; and the grand 
 western front is, in the main, a fine specimen of the 
 early English style. The great East window is also 
 very fine, but it is thought to be of comparatively 
 modern erection, the transept and choir having ex- 
 tended a good way beyond this point. 
 
 This venerable chapel has been the scene of very 
 marfy historical events. Here King Charles I. was 
 crowned King of Scotland; James II. and James III. 
 
 33 
 
514 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 were married here, and here, too, the ill-matched and 
 alike ill-fated pair, Lord Darnley and Queen Mary, 
 knelt before the sacred altar beneath the great east 
 window, and plighted their troth for weal or woe ; and 
 here, also, it was that the Papal Legate presented to 
 King James IV., from Pope Julius II., the sword of 
 state which has already been described and alluded to 
 as among the royal regalia in the Castle of Edin- 
 boro' . 
 
 It would seem that some of these illustrious dead 
 must have been good Freemasons and Sir Knights of 
 the " Valiant and magnanimous Order of Knights Tem- 
 plars," in whom you may be sure that "A Knight Tem- 
 plar Abroad ' ' took more than a merely passing interest, 
 for upon the tombs of some we saw incribed the perfect 
 ashler, setting-maul, and square and compass, while 
 upon others we noticed the rude-cut figures of reclin- 
 ing knights, panoplied in full armor, " with crossed feet 
 and upraised hands." Vet'bmn sapientisat. 
 
 The last time the chapel was used for worship was 
 in the reign of James II., who celebrated mass there, 
 and which so excited the Protestant populace that they 
 partially destroyed it at the Revolution of 1688, and 
 the accession of the Prince of Orange-Nassau. 
 
 Several of the kings of Scotland had been interred 
 within the old church of the Holyrood Monastery, but 
 their coffins were pillaged, and the remains were dese- 
 crated by the mob in 1688; and for this reason it is 
 said to be extremely doubtful whether the bones of 
 
EDINBORO' UNIVERSITY. 515 
 
 David II., James VI., and Lord Heury Darnley, are 
 yet in tiie royal vaults, though, of course, originally 
 interred there, according to the usual custom. 
 
 Riccio, the murdered secretary, was at first interred 
 there by the rather indiscreet command of Queen 
 Mary, but upon wiser counsels prevailing, his remains 
 were afterwards removed to the part of the chapel 
 nearest the palace. 
 
 But little now remains to be said of the city of Edin- 
 boro' which would be likely to interest our readers, 
 so we shall hasten to conclude our rambling remarks 
 which have already gone far beyond our expectations or 
 intention when we first set out to chronicle the travels 
 of "A Knight Templar Abroad ;" and we are fully 
 aware that we have failed to keep our promise as to 
 its being an " abstract and brief chronicle," but we 
 here undertake to say, in the best of faith, that those 
 of our kind and unhy per critical readers who have had 
 the patience to follow us thus far, in spite of our dull- 
 ness and many palpable shortcomings, shall soon reach 
 the end of our " Pilgrimage." 
 
 The University of Edinboro' is well worth a visit, 
 but I shall not stop to describe it here, but will only 
 say that the library contains more than 130,000 volumes 
 and several hundred valuable MSS. The number of 
 students of late years has averaged as many as 3,000, 
 (about as half as many as Cambridge), and it is perhaps 
 worthy of mention that the southeast corner of the 
 college is believed the site of the old house of Kirk-o- 
 Field, where Darnley was blown up while he was con- 
 
516 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 valescing from an attack of small-pox early on the 
 morning of the 10th of February, 1557, by the " Gun- 
 powder Plot" of Both well, of complicity y in which 
 by the way, he solemnly declared before his death that 
 the Queen was innocent. The force of the explosion 
 was so terrible that the horribly mutilated bodies of 
 Darnley and his page were blown into the adjoining gar- 
 den, and of the house of Kirk-o-Field " ther remainit 
 not ane stone upon ane other undestroyit." 
 
 Now, a few remarks in regard to the New Town of 
 Edinboro, and we shall take our departure for the 
 beauties of the Trossachs, Loch Katrine, and Loch 
 Lomond. 
 
 We shall first speak of the Scott Monument, the 
 chief ornament of Princes Street, and which is some- 
 what similar in design to the Albert Memorial in South 
 Kensington, London, (though less pretentious and ex- 
 pensive, and not having the typical groups at the four 
 corners of the large plateau on which it is situated 
 these subsidiary groups of the Albert Memorial, in 
 London, being probably fifty or sixty feet away from 
 the monument which stands in the center, and in which 
 these groups represent, the four grand divisions of the 
 globe.) 
 
 It was erected in 1844, at an expense of about $80,- 
 000, from designs furnished by Geoige Meikle Kemp, 
 who was a young self-taught artist, whose designs tri- 
 umphed over many of the leading architects of the 
 United Kingdom, but who, unfortunately, did not live 
 to see completed this noble monument, which none the 
 
THE SCOTT MONUMENT. 517 
 
 less commemorated his own genius, while at the same 
 time doing honor to the incomparable talents of the 
 Wizard of the North. 
 
 The monument is in the form of an open Gothic 
 cross or tower, 200 feet high, which with its groined 
 arch forms a" canopy for the colossal statue of Sir 
 Walter, with his favorite greyhound. Prince, at his feet, 
 which was sculptured by Mr. John StuU (afterwards 
 Sir John Stull,) who was knighted by the Queen at 
 the inauguration of the Albert Memorial in Edinboro', 
 in August, 1876, as a slight testimonial of her appre- 
 ciation of the artist's work. Many of the niches in 
 the monument are occupied by statues of the most 
 familiar characters in Scott's novels and poems, and as 
 I stood and looked with critical eye at the various 
 beauties of the monument, and its many beautifully 
 carved figures, my mind reverted quickly to many 
 characters and incidents in his immortal works, which, 
 for the nonce had entirely escaped my memory, and 
 this splendid monument is an enduring reminder both 
 of the great author and his chefs' d'oeuvre in the field 
 of literature of which he will ever remain a *' bright 
 and shining; light." 
 
 Dr. Livingstone, the African explorer, has also a 
 monument not far from Sir Walter Scott's, but it is too 
 near the more imposing structure to attract much 
 notice. 
 
 The house where Sir Walter was born is unfortun- 
 ately no longer to be seen, as together with a number 
 of others, it was torn down in order to open up the 
 
518 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 present Chambers Street. However, the house in 
 Castle Street (No. 39), where he resided for many 
 years is still to be seen, and a witty Frenchman re- 
 marked upon one occasion that " thirty-nine was 
 the right number exactly for Sir Walter, as it was 
 fitting that the Three Graces and the Nine Muses should 
 take their station there." 
 
 The Scott monument fronts on St. David Street, and 
 the house on the right-hand corner fronting St. An- 
 drew Square, is the one in which Hume, the historian, 
 died, and it is believed that the rigid and orthodox 
 Presbyterians of Edinboro' gave the street that name 
 as a kind of biting irony on Hume's well known scep- 
 tical sentiments, and it seems not a little strange that 
 Hume and Gibbon, the historians of the world's two 
 greatest empires, perhaps, should both have tried, in 
 the terse words of Byron, to " sap a solemn creed with 
 solemn sneer." 
 
 Lord Byron's mother, by the way, resided in a 
 house on the east side of the same square, and Lord 
 Brougham was born in the house (No. 21) directly 
 opposite Hume's. 
 
 It is said when the historian's house was almost 
 the only one in the newlj'^-opened street, that Dr. 
 Webster, one of the ministers of Edinboro' , chalked 
 upon the front of Hume's house, the words Saint 
 David Street. 
 
 When the historian was told of the liberty which 
 had been taken with his premises and his name as 
 well, he replied, " Weel, weel, Janet, never mind. 
 
THE ALBERT MEMORIAL. 519 
 
 I'm not the first man of sense that has been made a 
 saint of." Hume and Burns both are buried not far 
 from the foot of the Calton Hill, In Princes Street 
 there is also a fine equestrian statue of the Duke of 
 Wellington, this, too, by Sir John Stull, Her Majesty's 
 sculptor for Scotland. 
 
 The only other monuments of interest in Edinboro', 
 besides the Albert Memorial are the statues of William 
 Pitt and George IV., in George Street, by Chantrey, 
 where also stands Saint Andrew's Church, which is 
 noted as the scene of the disruption of the Church of 
 Scotland in 1843. 
 
 The Albert Memorial, at the foot of George Street, 
 is a very fine equestrian statue of Prince Albert, and 
 occupies the center of Charlotte Square. The statue is 
 of bronze, and more than thirty feet high, and has sub- 
 sidiary groups of the same material at the four corners 
 of the pedestal, and scenes from the life of this truly 
 good and noble Prince (who was essentially great 
 without any pretensions to greatness) in alto-relievo 
 tablets on each side of the pedestal. Now, we shall 
 allude briefly to the glories of the National Gallery, 
 and then take the Caledonian Railway for Callender 
 and the Trossachs. 
 
 About the only remaining place of interest in the 
 Scottish capital leftundescribed is the National Gallery, 
 and with that we are compelled, though much against 
 our will, to take our departure from this truly beauti- 
 ful, and from an historic standpoint, intensely inter- 
 esting city. 
 
520 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 The National Gallery is on Princes Street, directly 
 beneath the shattered guns of the frowning old castle of 
 Edinboro', and was founded in 1850, by the univers- 
 ally beloved and lamented Prince Albert, than whom 
 we readily concede that there have been greater states- 
 men and warriors among England's rulers, but who, if 
 not among the greatest of the princes of England ( and 
 who, like the Prince of Orange with the Princess Mary 
 was well worthy of sharing the throne with Queen Vic- 
 toria, although unlike him, he did not), was certainly 
 among the best and most virtuous of them all ; and who 
 was more interested in all social and domestic reforms, 
 and in the progress of literature, and the fine arts, 
 than any of his predecessors belonging to that per- 
 haps somewhat useless and certainly expensive royal 
 family, and a portion of whose extraordinarily feli- 
 citous and admirable address upon that occasion, is 
 quoted here as well worthy of reproduction, and as 
 well calculated to show the refining influences of the 
 fine arts upon an appreciative and a cultivated people. 
 
 His Eoyal Highness said in that address among other 
 things, when he laid the corner stone of the proposed 
 institution (which was completed in 1854, and is a fine 
 example of the Ionic order of architecture): "The 
 building, of which we have just begun the founda- 
 tion, is a temple to be erected to the fine arts — 
 the fine arts which have so important an influence 
 upon the development of the mind and feeling of 
 a people, and which are so generally taken as the 
 type of the degree and character of that develop- 
 
ALBERT ON FINE ARTS. 521 
 
 ment, that it is on the fragments of the works of art 
 come down to-us from bygone generations, that we are 
 wont to form our estimate of the state of their civili- 
 zation^ manners, customs, and religion. Let us hope 
 that the impulse given to the culture of the fine arts in 
 this country, and the daily increasing attention bestowed 
 on it by the people at large, will not only tend to 
 refine and elevate the national taste to a higher and 
 more correct standard, but will also lead to the pro- 
 duction of works, which, if left behind us as memorials 
 of our age, will give to after generations an adequate 
 idea of our advanced state of civilization . It must be an 
 additional source of gratification to one to find that part 
 of the funds rendered available for the support of this 
 undertaking should be the ancient grant, which, at the 
 Union of the two kingdoms, was secured towards the 
 encouragement of the fisheries and manufactures of 
 Scotland, as it affords a most pleasing proof that these 
 important branches of industry have arrived at that 
 stage of manhood and prosperity that they no longer 
 require the aid of a fostering government but can main- 
 tain themselves independently, relying upon their own 
 vigor and activity, and can now, in their turn, lend 
 assistance and support to their younger and weaker 
 sisters — the fine arts. Gentlemen, the history of this 
 grant exhibits to us the picture of a more healthy 
 national progress ; the ruder arts connected with the 
 necessaries of life first gaining strength, then education 
 and science supervening and directing further exer- 
 tions, and lastly, the Arts, which only adorn life. 
 
522 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 becoming longed for by a prosperous and educated 
 people." 
 
 Let us hope that these eminently just and eloquent 
 remarks of this truly virtuous German prince, who 
 would have adorned the throne of England by his 
 " victories of peace," with a lustre that her greatest 
 warrior king could not surpass by his glorious achieve- 
 ments on the sanguinary field of battle, may have 
 their salutary effect upon this day and generation, and 
 infuse into it, too, a love for the refining and softening 
 influences of the Fine Arts, which the illustrious orator 
 so truly says " only adorn life." 
 
 The collection is very varied and valuable, and con- 
 sists of about 550 pictures (many of them by the old 
 masters, and, of course, extremely valuable) by the 
 best Continental, British, and Scotch artists, and about 
 forty pieces of statuary. 
 
 The galleries entering from the last portico, are 
 assigned to the Royal Scottish Academy's annual ex- 
 hibition of the works of living artists^ but as they are 
 to be seen only from February until May, and as my 
 visit to Edinboro' was made in the month of August, 
 1883, of course I did not see this collection. But the 
 West Gallery is open all the year round, and this, of 
 course, is the portion of the gallery best worth a visit, 
 as it contains the permanent collection of the Academy, 
 which includes the pictures presented by the Academi- 
 cians on receiving their diplomas; and here, of course, 
 are some of the works of the old masters, and this col- 
 lection is large and valuable, including many notable 
 
NATIONAL GALLERY. 523 
 
 productions, from the brushes of both domestic and 
 Continental artists. 
 
 I shall, however, mention only a few of the many 
 pictures and portraits before which I lingered in rapt 
 admiration, and which had I but possessed the purse 
 of Fortunatas, I would have liked to import to Amer- 
 ica, and form a nucleus for the Renaissance of 
 American Art, so to speak. While I think of it I wish 
 to speak of the portrait of the cruel Claverhouse, 
 which represented him as overflowing with the milk of 
 human kindness, and with long clustering ringlets 
 hanging down on his shoulders, looking little enough 
 like the brutal companion of the " Bloody Kirke," who, 
 with their fierce dragoons, persecuted and hounded to 
 the death the martyred Covenanters whom they relent- 
 lessly butchered in cold blood by thousands. 
 
 I took special interest, of course, in the portraits of 
 Robert Burns and Sir Walter Scott, and of Hume, the 
 historian, in whose historic footsteps I had been so 
 lately treading, and in the picture of Jeanie Deans and 
 the robbers, which told the wondrous story of her 
 arduous trip, mostly on foot, from Edinboro' up to Lon- 
 don, a distance of 400 miles, beset with dangers and 
 hardships of every kind, to beg the life of her unfor- 
 tunate sister, Effie, at the hands of Queen Caroline. 
 And never should the remarkable words be forgotten 
 which Jeanie Deans addressed to Queen Caroline 
 upon that momentous occasion, when the life of her 
 young sister Effie, who, truth to tell, had been more 
 
524 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 sinned against than sinning, hung trembling in the 
 balance : — 
 
 *' When the hour of trouble comes to the mind, or 
 to the body, and when the hour of death comes, that 
 comes to high and low, oh, my leddy, then it is na 
 what we hae dune for oursells, but what we hae dune 
 for others, that we think on maist pleasantly." 
 
 Still another interesting picture is that representing 
 the great Reformer, John Knox, dispensing the sacra- 
 ment, at Calder House, to his orthodox Scotch breth- 
 ren. 
 
 Another intensely thrilling picture which vividly 
 recalled what it cost the earlier Christians to obtain 
 freedom to worship God is called " The Covenanters' 
 Communion; " and then the bloody butchery of Glen- 
 coe, in 1692, and the battle of Waterloo, next attracted 
 my attention. 
 
 Next an interesting picture, by Drummond, details 
 almost the last vicissitude in the checkered career of 
 Mary Queen of Scots, prior to her injudicious appeal 
 to the generosity of Queen Elizabeth, when she surren- 
 dered herself to her kinswoman, which is called " The 
 Return of Mary Queen of Scots to Edinboro', after 
 her Surrender to the Confederate Lords at Carberry 
 Hill, 1567." Then comes the " Porteous mob," by the 
 same artist, and the ever-famous " Battle of Bannock- 
 burn, "^and then the " Marriage in Cana," after Paul 
 Veronese. 
 
 Van Dyck, who was the pupil of Rubens, and who 
 
SOME NOTABLE PICTURES. 525 
 
 died at the early age of forty-two, and who, in spite of 
 his licentious life, it is said painted the almost incredi- 
 ble number of 950 pictures, has three masterpieces 
 side by side, one of them representing the martyrdom 
 of Saint Sebastian. 
 
 " Venus attired by the Graces," is another picture 
 of the sensuous school, by Guido Reni; and then we 
 come to a fine picture of the " Adoration of the Magi," 
 by Titian, and of " Christ, and the Money Changers 
 in the Temple," a large picture of the " Transfigura- 
 tion," thirteen feet by nine, after Raphael, by Urqu- 
 hart, and the " Dead Christ in the Arms of the 
 Father," which is a very striking and realistic picture. 
 
 There is also a very fine portrait of Charles I., by 
 Van Dyck, *' Venus and Adonis," by Paul Veronese, 
 and a very fine *' Ecce Homo," or '* Christ Crowned 
 with Thorns," by Guido Reni; "Mars and Venus," 
 by Paul Veronese ; '* The Last Supper," by Bonifacio; 
 "Bacchus and Ariadne," and many other exquisite 
 paintings, which we have not time or space to mention, 
 and we will close the imperfect list by an allusion to 
 the magnificent painting of the " Judgment of Paris," 
 and the rival " Goddesses, Venus, Juno and Minerva," 
 in all their sensuous beauty, to whom the gifted poet, 
 Thomson, alludes in his beautiful poem, " Sum- 
 mer: " — 
 
 "Not Paris, on the piny top of Ida 
 Panted stronger, 
 When aside the rival Goddesses, 
 The veil divine, cast unconflned, 
 And gave him all their charms." 
 
526 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 and on account of which spretae injuria formae^ as 
 Virgil says, mythology tells us that the haughty and 
 indignant Juno sided with the Greeks in the Trojan 
 war, which was the result of Venus' having previously 
 hrihed the court (Paris) by the extraordinary induce- 
 ment of giving him Helen, the wife of Menelaus, King 
 of Sparta, who, we are told, was the most beautiful 
 woman of her time. 
 
 There are several very fine pieces of statuary judi- 
 ciously interspersed here and there through the rooms, 
 of which we will name only the most interesting : A 
 lovely Psyche, marble busts of Her Majesty, Queen 
 Victoria, Lord Brougham, and the Duke of Wellington, 
 bust of a Scotch lassie, statue of Hebe, a model in 
 bronze of the Parthenon, presented by " Grecian 
 Williams ; " and last, but not least, by any means, three 
 models in wax by the great Michael Angelo Buonaroti ; 
 two members of the famous (or rather, perhaps, 
 more strictly speaking, the infamous) family of the 
 Medici ; and a perfectly exquisite model of the Ma- 
 donna and the infant Jesus. 
 
 The next morning we took the train for Loch Katrine, 
 and sixteen miles west of Edinboro', on the Caledonian 
 Railway, we reach Linlithgow, which is a place of great 
 antiquity, and associated with many interesting events 
 in the history of Scotland and her kings ; and here it 
 was that Queen Mary was born to the royal purple, on 
 December 8, 1542, just seven days before the death of 
 her father. King James V., leaving her his only child, 
 and heir to the throne of Scotland ; and at whose birth 
 
LINLITHGOW. 527 
 
 he made this sinister prediction: "The crown came 
 with a lass, and will go with a lass; many miseries 
 await this poor kingdom. Henry (of England) will 
 make it his own, either by force of arms or by mar- 
 riage." 
 
 A part of this sinister prediction came true, but he 
 then little foresaw that the son of the unfortunate 
 and unhappy Mary, would unite and rule over the two 
 kingdoms with undisputed sway, and with the most 
 beneficent results. 
 
 As early as the twelfth century, King David I. had 
 here a castle and a church, and the old Scottish knights 
 of St. John of Jerusalem, had a priory of the Order 
 near Linlithgow. The old palace is clearly visible 
 from the railway, and with its row of windows near 
 the roof, and solid walls below, shows at once that it 
 dates back to the forays of feudal times. It stands on 
 the same site as King David's castle, and covers an 
 acre of ground. Although mainly in ruins, it is the 
 finest palace of which Scotland could ever boast, and 
 fully justifies what Scott says of it in his Marmion, — 
 
 " Of all the palaces so fair, 
 Built for the royal dwelling 
 In Scotland, far beyond compare 
 Linlithgow is excelling." 
 
 Like almost all these palaces of feudal times, which 
 were added-to piecemeal as it were in different reigns, 
 the palace of Linlithgow shows, in the construction of 
 its various portions, the different styles in architecture 
 which prevailed at various periods, but the larger and 
 
528 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 more ornate portion of the building bears the mark of 
 the prevailing style of the earlier half of the sixteenth 
 century. King James III. added to it largely, including 
 the Tyler's Tower; James IV. erected the east side of 
 the palace, and James V., the southern part, and the 
 handsome outer gate, for the reception of his bride, 
 the Princess Magdalen of France, and the ancient !Par- 
 liament Hall of Scotland was above this entrance, 
 where James VI., who erected the north side of the 
 palace, held a Parliament in 1585 in the Hall. In the 
 center of the court or quadrangle, formerly stood an 
 ornate fountain which was erected by James V. Like 
 Windsor Castle for the English monarchs, and Fon- 
 tainebleau and Versailles to the kings of France, so 
 Linlithgow was for the Scottish monarchs a favorite 
 residence and resort, being but sixteen miles from 
 the Scotch capital. 
 
 Here James III. lived during his minority; here 
 Henry VI. took refuge when dethroned by Edward IV. ; 
 and here King .Tames V. and Queen Mary were 
 born. Near Linlithgow, the river Avon is spanned 
 by a magnificent railway viaduct of some twenty- 
 five arches nearly 100 feet high, which reminded me 
 very much of one or two viaducts on the Baltimore 
 and Ohio Eailway in Virginia. Not far from Linlith- 
 gow is Falkirk, noted as the scene of two battles, one 
 in 1298, between Sir William Wallace and King Ed- 
 ward I. of England, and the other between the Pretender 
 and the Eoyal forces, in the year 1746. About four 
 miles east from Linlithgow, on the north side of the 
 
STIRLING. 529 
 
 railway, may yet be seen the ruins of Niddry Castle, 
 which is noted as being the first resting place of Queen 
 Mary after her escape from Loch Leven Castle on the 
 2d of May, 1568. 
 
 Thirty-six miles north west from Edinboro brings 
 us to Stirling with its ancient castle, and to which we 
 must devote a few passing remarks at any rate, for it, 
 too, has figured very considerably in Scottish history. 
 Stirling stands on the right bank of the river Forth, 
 and forms the junction of several railways, and is 
 about thirty miles northeast of Glasgow. It commands 
 a point of the Forth, which was long the main pas- 
 sage from the Lowlands to the Highlands, and because 
 of its great strategic importance, was probably an im- 
 portant military station, even in ancient Caledonian 
 times, during the Roman occupation, and during the 
 later conflicts between the Scots and the Picts, and 
 has figured more or less as the capital of Scotland, 
 from the time of Malcolm Canmore till that of King 
 James VI., and has participated so largely in the tur- 
 moil of national strife, both martial and political, as 
 late as the two rebellions of the eighteenth century, that 
 if we estimate it by its importance and prominence in 
 Scotch history, it can be regarded with an interest 
 secondary to Edinboro' , with which, in fact, it has many 
 features in common, being, like that city, partly ancient 
 and partly modern, having modern villas, and wide 
 streets intercepted with antique dwellings and narrow 
 and ill conditioned thoroughfares. 
 
 The castle stands on the precipitous brow of the 
 34 
 
530 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 hill, and presents a highly romantic and picturesque 
 spectacle. Like the castle of Edinboro', an esplanade 
 separates the castle from the town, and two walls and 
 fosses serve as outer defenses. Queen Anne's battery 
 is within the second gateway, and commands a view 
 almost unsurpassed for beauty and extent, extending 
 all along the basin of the river Forth, and including 
 Edinboro' Castle and Arthur's Seat in its scope, and all 
 the surrounding mountain peaks of the Highland, many 
 in number. 
 
 To the right of the railway, near Stirling, on a rocky 
 eminence nearly 400 feet high, which was the head- 
 quarters of Sir William Wallace's army, prior to the 
 battle of Stirling in 1297, is a fine monument to Wal- 
 lace, erected in 1861-69, costing $80,000. 
 
 It is said that from the castle no less than twelve of 
 the battle-fields of Scotland can be seen, among them 
 Bannockburn and Falkirk. The outer walls of the 
 castle were built in Queen Anne's time, but the portion 
 known as the palace, was built by James V., the Par- 
 liament Hall by James HI., and the Chapel Eoyal by 
 James VI. There is a little room in the castle known 
 as the '* Douglas room," from the circumstance that 
 King James II., who was born in Stirling, had given 
 the "Black Douglas" safe conduct, but whom the 
 king stabbed nevertheless, and threw his body out of 
 the window, into the garden beneath, in a sudden fit of 
 ungovernable passion. Queen Victoria, while in this 
 vicinity, paid the castle a visit in 1842, and was so en- 
 chanted with the view of the surrounding scenery, so 
 
MAGNIFICENT SCENERY. 531 
 
 beautifully variegated by mountain and by valley, that 
 the place from which she " viewed the prospect o'er," 
 has been christened the " Victoria Lookout." 
 
 Roderic Dhu has summed up in one glowing verse 
 the many beauties of the scene from the battlements of 
 Stirling Castle, which are at least 300 feet above the 
 valley, in his reply to Snowdoun's Knight, the chival- 
 rous and gallant James Fitz-James. 
 
 Before giving this quotation, however, we will here 
 apprise our readers that, as on the Rhine, we derived 
 our poetical inspiration from Byron, so here, when we 
 find ourselves in the magic realm of the enchanting 
 Wizard of the North, we shall take the liberty of quot- 
 ing occasionally from the beautiful lines of Scott, 
 without as much as saying *' by your leave." 
 
 In the " Lady of the Lake " says Roderick Dhu : 
 
 " Saxon, from yonder mountain high, 
 I marked thee send delighted eye 
 Far to the South and East, where lay. 
 Extended in succession gay, 
 Deep waving fields and pastures green, 
 With gentle slopes and groves between; 
 "Whose fertile fields, that softened vale, 
 Were once the birthright of the Gael." 
 
 Rob Roy is said to have once been a prisoner here, 
 and it is a tradition that Sir William Wallace once 
 carried the breach by storm. 
 
 I may say here, en passant^ that while I was engaged 
 in *' doing" the sights of Edinboro', where I was sur- 
 rounded on every hand with so much to distract my 
 time and attention in the few days which remained to me 
 
532 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 before the steamer Anchoria was to sail from Glasgow 
 in which I was booked for the passage back to my 
 native land, I regretted extremely that I could not find 
 time to visit Abbotsford, the home of Scott, Melrose 
 Abbey, which is said to be very beautiful, so much so, 
 that the Scott monument in Edinboro', is said to be "a 
 recollection of the architectural beauties of Melrose 
 Abbey;" Dryburg Abbey, where the great poet and 
 author of the incomparable Waverley Novels is buried, 
 and particularly to see Eosslyn or Eoslin Chapel, which 
 is seven miles from Edinboro', on account of its found- 
 er's connection with the Order of Freemasons, that 
 noble body of men, who, in spite of the " Anti-Masonic 
 Party," have steadily increased in numbers and in 
 prestige, until they now number in the United States 
 alone 1,000,000 stanch and loyal adherents. 
 
 In spite of the anathema maranatha of bigoted Popes 
 and narrow-minded laymen, the Order which is coeval 
 almost with the universe itself, and certainly with the 
 founding of King Solomon's Temple, is everyday taking 
 a higher rank among thinking and sober-minded people ; 
 chiefly because, as the Prince of Wales, the present 
 Grand Master of England, lately wrote to the French 
 Grand Master, " English Masons " (and we take the 
 liberty here of saying Masons of all countries as well), 
 " always held the belief that God is the first and great 
 landmark of genuine Freemasons. Without such be- 
 lief, nobody can rightly claim to inherit the traditions 
 of true Freemasonry." 
 
 These remarks, though apparently a digression, were 
 
ROSLYN CHAPEL. 533 
 
 suggested by the fact that Rosslyn Chapel was 
 founded by William III., Earl of Orkney, in 1446, 
 who had conferred on him by King James II., the office 
 of Grand Master of the Scottish Freemasons, which 
 continued hereditary in the family of his descendants, 
 until 1736, when it was resigned into the hands of the 
 Scottish lodges. The whole building is a remarkable 
 Gothic structure, but the pillars are especially pointed 
 out to the visitor as its chief wonder, and particularly 
 so to the Masonic visitor, as many of them yet bear the 
 Mark Master Mason's " mark." But the marvel of the 
 whole is the Apprentice's Pillar and thereby hangs a 
 tale. The usual version of the encounter between the 
 Master Mason and Entered Apprentice which every 
 Master Mason is familiar with, but the usual procedure 
 was reversed in this case, as the Master Mason had 
 originally left the pillar unfinished while he went to 
 Eome to study how to perfect it, and while he was 
 gone, one of his Entered Apprentices had the temerity 
 to finish it according to his own designs, whereat the 
 Master, upon his return was so indignant that he 
 killed him on the spot by a blow on the head with a 
 setting-maul. This pillar is a clustered column, sur- 
 rounded by an exquisitely wrought wreath of flowers 
 running from base to capital, the very poetry of carv- 
 ing. Above the pillar is the following inscription in 
 Old English letters : " Forte est Vinum, fortior estrex^ 
 forliores sunt mulieres; super omnia vincit Veritas.^' 
 Which being interpreted meaneth — " Wine is strong, 
 
534 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 the king is stronger, women are yet stronger; but 
 above all things, Truth is the victor." 
 
 When, not long since, unawares I came upon this 
 description of this interesting old chapel, which is 
 directly connected with the Craft, it occurred to me 
 that the old knights of Eosslyn, who, it is said, as late 
 as the times of James VI., were buried uncoffined, 
 but in complete armor, yet as Byron says, perhaps 
 not altogether " unknelled and unknown," although 
 " uncoflSned," most surely have been Knights Tem- 
 plars, and Knights of the Eed Cross as well, else how 
 happens it that the motto on the Apprentice's Pillar 
 of Rossyln should be so eminently suggestive of a 
 certain portion of the ceremonies of the Red Cross de- 
 gree ; or is it merely one of those curious coincidences 
 which sometimes occur, for which no satisfactory ex- 
 planation can be given ? 
 
 fc At the little low lying town of Callander, sixteen 
 miles northwest of Stirling, we leave our comfortable 
 railway carriage, and climb into a large, roomy open 
 sort of wagonette, which holds twenty or twenty- 
 
 %five passengers, and, having obtained a good seat, with 
 the driver, and seated by our side a plump London 
 girl, who, however, much to our regret, was flanked 
 
 ^ on the other side by her big brother, we took an ex- 
 hilarating drive of twenty miles or more through the 
 far-famed scenery of the Tossachs, which lie between 
 Callander and Lady Ellen's Isle; but after the grand 
 and sublime mountain peaks of Switzerland, which al- 
 
LOCH ACHEAY. 535 
 
 most seem to kiss the heavens with their tops glisten- 
 ing with eternal snow, the Tossachs rather pall upon 
 one, and I shall not detain you long with an account 
 of this portion of our pilgrimage, but shall only put 
 down a few items of interest here and there. 
 
 Not far from Callander, our expert and talkative 
 " whip " called our attention to Ooilantogle Ford, 
 which was the scene of the combat between Fitz- 
 James and Roderick Rhu, and near here Ben-Ledi 
 towers upward to the height of 2,500 feet, its name 
 signifying " Hill of God," from having been anciently 
 a place of heathen worship, then crossing the Brig of 
 Turk, which figures in Fitz- James' stag hunt, then our 
 Jehu drew up for a few minutes in front of the Tos- 
 sachs' Hotel, a handsome structure, with a fine tower at^ 
 each wing, where we obtained a nice luncheon, Ben An 
 and Ben Venue look proudly down upon the scene, 
 and Loch Achray lies spread out before the hotel, a 
 beautiful expanse of water, all glistening in the sunshine. 
 
 Not far from the hotel, we enter the formidable (?) 
 
 pass of the Tossachs, and are soon in the . enchanted 
 
 region of the ' ' Lady o f the Lake . ' ' Scott , speaking of 
 
 a hunter pursuing a stag in this wild sequestered glade, 
 
 says : — 
 
 " Then dashing down a darksome glen 
 Soon lost to hound and hunter's ken, 
 In the deep Tossachs wildest nook 
 His solitary refuge took." 
 
 Now we reach the pier, and embark upon the di- 
 minutive steamer Rob Roy, which our party of three or (.* 
 
(i> 
 
 536 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 four coaches-full crowded rather uncomfortably, and 
 sailing past Lady Ellen's Isle, soon found ourselves at 
 the pier at Stronachlachar, where we debarked, and 
 again took our places in a second wagonette to cross 
 to Inversnaid on Loch Lomond. 
 
 On the way to Loch Lomond we have pointed out 
 to us a little hut, where it is said that Helen McGregor, 
 the wife of Rob Roy, was born, and then descending 
 to Inversnaid through a dull, unromantic, and sterile 
 looking country, which almost made one wonder why 
 the Scotch were so much attached to their bleak and 
 uninteresting heather, their native heath though it be, 
 we soon reach Inversnaid, where we rested a few 
 minutes while waiting for the steamer on Loch Lo- 
 mond, which was a boat considerably larger and more 
 comfortable than the stufl'y miniature little Rob Roy 
 on Loch Katrine, which was a very small propeller. 
 However, while we are waiting for the boat at Inver- 
 snaid, I will give you Sir Walter Scott's reasons for the 
 " Cannie Scot's " intense fondness for Bonnie Scot- 
 land, as he had rather better facilities for knoAving his 
 own countrymen than the average "pilgrim," no mat- 
 ter how much time he might spend in the country, or 
 how great might be his powers of observation. 
 
 He says in the " Heart of Midlothian " that, " perhaps 
 one ought actually to be a Scotsman to conceive how 
 ardently, under all distinctions of rank and situation, 
 they feel their mutual connection with each other as 
 natives of the same country. 
 
 "There are, I believe, more associations common to 
 
LOCH LOMOND. 537 
 
 the inhabitants of a rude and wild, than of a well culti- 
 vated and fertile country ; their ancestors have more 
 seldom changed their place of residence ; their mutual 
 recollection of remarkable objects is more accurate ; 
 the high and the low are more interested in each other's 
 welfare; the feelings of kindred are more widely 
 extended, and, in a word, the bonds of patriotic affec- 
 tion, always honorable, even when a little too exclu- 
 sively strained, have more influence on one's feelings 
 and actions." 
 
 Inversnaid, by the way is the scene of Words- 
 Worth's poem the "Highland Girl," and has a 
 very neat hotel and pier, and hard by the hotel is a 
 cascade which falls by abrupt descents of thirty to 
 forty feet at a leap, a distance of several hundred feet. 
 Loch Lomond is three or four times as long as Loch 
 Katrine, and is studded with picturesque islands at the 
 lower end of the lake, some of them quite large, prob- 
 ably thirty or forty in number, so that occasionally the 
 steamer would almost touch the shore, or brush by a 
 rock so closely that you could almost have leaped 
 ashore, if you had wished to, and is surrounded on 
 every hand by mountain peaks varying from 978 feet, 
 the height of Killeter Hill, to grand old Ben Lomond, 
 pointing heavenward more than 3,000 feet. 
 
 Rob Roy's Cave, where he used to hold his councils 
 with his clan, is on the east side of Loch Lomond, 
 and near Tarbet, on the western shore, was a favorite 
 residence of Jeffreys of the " Bloody Assizes." 
 
 Buchanan House, on the east side of the lake is 
 
538 A KNIGHT TEMPLAK ABROAD. 
 
 clearly visible from the steamer's deck, which has 
 exteDsive grounds, as it is the seat of the Duke of 
 Montrose who owns the eastern shore of the Loch 
 almost for its entire length, and for some miles in the 
 interior, and who is a lineal descendant of Montrose, 
 of whose cruel death and Christian resignation we 
 have spoken above. The most interesting associa- 
 tions, however, which are connected with Loch 
 Lomond, are those associated with the home, 
 or *' castle," as the Scotch call it, of the fa- 
 mous author, Tobias Smollett, and who fondly 
 cherish his name and fame as a native of Dumbarton 
 County, because for many years prior to his birth, his 
 family were people of prominence and distinction in 
 the County of Dumbarton, and he was reared here. 
 His antecedents were quite historic ; as his grandfather. 
 Sir James Smollett, of Bonhill, who was a successful 
 barrister, represented the borough of Dumbarton in 
 the Scotch Parliament, and was one of the commis- 
 sioners appointed to draw up the Act of Union between 
 England and Scotland. He married Jane, the daughter 
 of Sir Aulay Macaulay of Ardincaple who was prob- 
 ably a connection of the celebrated Lord Macaulay, 
 the great Whig historian. 
 
 The author's father was Archibald Smollett, who 
 was educated at the University of Ley den, and who 
 followed no profession. He married without consult- 
 ing his father, but his wife was " an excellent woman, of 
 distinguished understanding, taste, and elegance," so 
 that it is not strange that the son should have had 
 
TOBIAS SMOLLETT. 539 
 
 more or less talent. It is said that it is always the 
 mother who forms the character of the child for good 
 or evil, for greatness, or the contrary, and it was cer- 
 tainly the case with young Smollett, as his father died 
 while he was yet a child ; but his superior mother 
 did not allow him to lack educational facilities. 
 A small estate, which is still in the hands of her 
 descendants, and of which we had a fine view from the 
 steamer's deck at the lower end of Loch Lomond near 
 the mouth of the Leven,was allotted to the young 
 couple as a residence and means of support. Smollett 
 died and was buried at Leghorn, but a monument to 
 his memory has been erected on the right bank of the 
 Leven for which Dr. Johnson, more than a century 
 ago, furnished the inscription. 
 
 Its beautiful situation is described by their distin- 
 guished son, the author, and as it affords a beautiful 
 pen picture of the many varied attractions of Loch 
 Lomond, I transcribe it here. 
 
 Smollett says in his famous <' Expedition of Hum- 
 phrey Clinker:" "I have seen the Lago di Gardi, 
 Albano de Yico, Balsena, and Geneva, and I prefer 
 Loch Lomond to them all, a preference which is cer- 
 tainly owing to the verdant islands which seem to float 
 on its surface, affording the most enchanting objects 
 of repose to the excursive view. Nor are the banks 
 destitute of beauties which partake of the sublime. 
 On this side they display a sweet variety of woodland, 
 corn fields, and pasture, with several agreeable villas, 
 emerging, as it were, out of the lake, till at some dis- 
 
540 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 tance, the prospect terminates in huge mountains cov- 
 ered with heath, which, being in the bloom, affords a 
 very rich covering of purple. Everything here is 
 romantic beyond imagination. The country is justly 
 styled the Arcadia of Scotland. I do not doubt but it 
 may vie with Arcadia in everything but climate ; I am 
 sure it excels in verdure, wood, and water." 
 
 At Balloch Pier, we leave the steamer Prince Con- 
 sort, and take the train for Glasgow, after a most 
 enjoyable day spent in sightseeing among the lovely 
 scenery of Loch Katrine and Loch Lomond, and on 
 the right hand of the railway, Dumbarton Castle looms 
 proudly skyward at an elevation of more than 500 
 feet, and which derives its fame from the fact that Sir 
 William Wallace was once a prisoner here ; and if you 
 will take the trouble to climb up the castle hill, you 
 can see the gigantic »word of Sir William Wallace, 
 from which it would seem that he must have been a 
 very Hercules in strength and stature, as no common 
 man can either wield or wear his trusty broad sword, 
 and from its associations the higher peak of the two 
 is known as Wallace Seat 
 
 At Glasgow, I took up my quarters at the Cockburn 
 Hotel, because I had heard that it was known as the 
 American hotel of Glasgow, and certainly from the pro- 
 fusion of American flags which were stuck up all over 
 the dining-room, and which they glued all over the 
 iK baggage of every American who stopped even for one 
 meal at the house, I very soon came to the conclusion 
 that the proprietor was rather over-doing the " toady " 
 
GLASGOW. 541 
 
 business, but a very nice American girl from Louisi- 
 ana, who was the polite and accommodating clerk, ^ 
 more than made amends for all that, and I found the 
 few days I spent there passed pleasantly enough. 
 
 The sights of Glasgow are not many in number, 
 and as I am extremely anxious to bring this rambling 
 " Pilgrimage " to a close, lest my readers, who have 
 thus far borne with me so much more kindly than I 
 deserve, shall have already voted it, *' stale, flat, and 
 unprofitable," I shall not take up many more pages 
 before I write Finis, certainly to my own infinite satis- 
 faction, and I fear me much, none the less to my pa- 
 tient and lono;-sufferinoc friends. 
 
 The cathedral, is of course, worth a visit, but I 
 shall not attempt to describe it, as you have had 
 cathedrals ad libitum if notac? nauseam, but its stained 
 glass windows are truly marvelous and more than 
 eighty in number, more than half of them thirty feet 
 high, and each of them gives a Bible story complete. 
 
 The Necropolis is beautifully situated and gives you 
 a fine view of this great commercial metropolis of 
 more than half a million souls, and contains many fine 
 monuments, but there is only one of world-wide re- 
 nown, and that is John Knox's. 
 
 There is a long inscription upon the shaft, almost as 
 long as that of Erasmus of Rotterdam at Basle, but 
 there is one sentence which seems especially worthy of 
 being noted : — 
 
 " When laid in tne ground, the regent said, ' There 
 lieth he who never feared the face of man, who was 
 
542 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 often threatened with dag and dagger, yet hath ended 
 his days in peace and honor.' " 
 
 George Square, in Glasgow has some eight or ten 
 monuments, and is a great resort and promenade for 
 the citizens. 
 
 Sir Walter Scott is remembered by a monument 
 eighty feet high. Queen Victoria and Prince Albert 
 each have an equestrian bronze statue, and Sir Robert 
 Peel and James Watt are also commemorated by 
 bronze statues, the former in a standing posture as 
 becomes the statesman, and the latter in a sitting pos- 
 ture, as equally becomes the student. 
 
 The warriors. Sir John Moore and Lord Clyde, Burns 
 and Campbell, the poets, and Dr. Livingstone, the ex- 
 plorer of Africa, also are commemorated here. So 
 that George Square probably has a larger collection 
 of monuments to distinguished persons than any other 
 public square in the world, perhaps. 
 
 In the northwestern quarter of the city stands the 
 new college on the eminence of Gilmore Hill, which 
 overlooks a curve in the river Kilvin and gives a 
 very commanding view of the city below, and in the dis- 
 tance a great part of Renfrewshire, which was founded 
 in 1866, and opened for the reception of students, 
 and is six hundred feet long and three hundred wide, 
 and includes two quadrangles, and which, when finally 
 completed, will cost about $2,500,000. 
 
 I am thus particular to mention this college because 
 it contains what I regard as one of the greatest curi- 
 osities in the world, which is nothing more nor less than 
 
GLASGOW UNIVERSITY. 543 
 
 the identical old atmospheric engine of Newcomen, 
 from which James Watt got the idea which resulted in 
 the steam engine, and which entitles him to rank 
 along side with Gutenberg, the inventor of printing, as 
 the two master-minds whose wonderful inventions of 
 the steam engine and the printing press have revolu- 
 tionized the world, and, I think it safe to say, have 
 effected more for the cause God and humanity than, 
 perhaps, all the thousand and one devices which the 
 ingenuity of man has devised for the amelioration of 
 the condition of the human race. 
 
 It has been disputed that Gutenberg was the inven- 
 tor of printing, but additional proof of the fact, if any 
 were needed, which should forever set at rest the vexed 
 question, is found in the fact that in the university 
 library at Eouen there has been recently found a letter 
 which bears date of 1470, and tells about the intro- 
 duction of printing into Paris that year, by three men 
 who distinctly professed to be apprentices to Johannes 
 Gutenberg. The house in Strasbourg, in which Guten- 
 berg did his first work, still stands on the corner of the 
 Cathedral Platz, it is claimed by some, although others 
 assert that it was torn down about a century ago. 
 Watt was a Professor in the old Glasgow University, 
 and was trying to repair the Newcomen engine, which, 
 at the time, was a portion of the apparatus of the 
 Natural Philosophy Class, when he struck upon the idea 
 of a separate condenser, among other things, which 
 resulted in the invention of the steam engine which has 
 made his name immortal. In the same apartment with 
 
544 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 the old Newcomen engine is a statue of James Watt 
 presented by his son to the University, as he says, " in 
 gratitude for the encouragement afforded by its pro- 
 fessors to the scientific pursuits of his father's early 
 life." In the same room are to be seen several 
 things of interest to the religious world, notably the 
 first Bible printed at Rome, 1471, and a copy of the 
 first edition of the English Bible translated by Miles 
 Corndale and printed at Zurich, 1535, a copy of Virgil, 
 1470, also a " Byble " of 1575, one of 1549, one of 
 1639, and one of 1611, a Genevan Bible, 1615, and a 
 French Bible, {La Bible), 1560. 
 
 Before leaving Glasgow, I must not omit to say that 
 I had the pleasure of seeing the " Jersey Lily," who 
 was playing a week's engagement at the Princess 
 Theater in Sauchihall Street, where she played Eosa- 
 lind in "As You Like It," and, of course, as it was de 
 rigueur to go and see her, I went, and I found her, in 
 my judgment, a very handsome woman , though her chin 
 is altogether too long to call her beautiful, and in the 
 part of Eosalind her exquisitely molded limbs and per- 
 fect figure in the garb of a page showed to the greatest 
 advantage ; but although — 
 
 "She is a daughter of the gods, 
 Divinely tall, and most divinely fair," 
 
 still, in my humble judgment, although the house 
 was crowded, and she received several encores, yet she 
 is very far from being a great actress, nor does she 
 afford the prospect of ever being more even than 
 mediocre. 
 
"THE JERSEY LILY." 545 
 
 However, having posed as a *' Society Beauty," and 
 having been " brought out " by His Royal Highness, 
 the Prince of Wales, both combined have given her a 
 " big send-off," and she has made a quarter of a million 
 dollars, where more painstaking and more deserving 
 actresses have failed to make a "hit." 
 
 But it takes a woman to criticise another woman, 
 and as Olive Logan has seen her lately and praised 
 her — dresses — extravagantly, I will quote her descrip- 
 tion of Mrs. Langtry's charms, not as an actress, but 
 as an exquisite model for Worth's dresses to be shown 
 off to the best advantage. We regret that we can not 
 say more, and that we must " damn her with faint 
 praise," but such is the case, unhappily. 
 
 Olive speaks thus of Mrs. Langtry in a recent let- 
 ter : — 
 
 "And when the eyes of all the people were turned 
 on Mrs. Langtry, what did they see there? Why, 
 they saw a lovely bit of clay, a very noble-looking 
 Anglo-Saxon woman. They saw a fair, square brow, 
 such as Phidias might have loved to model; warm 
 chestnut locks, to which no sculptor's cold implements 
 could do the simplest justice; a wide, frank mouth, 
 with an engaging smile, and teeth that mean defiance 
 to those twin alliterative demons of the nineteenth cen- 
 tury, dyspepsia and the dentist.'* 
 
 " Yes, she is beautiful, — but having said so much 
 in praise of Mrs. Langtry, I regret I can not extend 
 the recital by any very warm commendation of her 
 acting. She tried her best to be more than a beauti- 
 
 35 
 
546 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 ful womaD, but she did not succeed in "talking her 
 head off" — Wilkes' method of making his listeners 
 forget his ugliness." 
 
 " She wrung her hands, and wiped her eyes, and 
 prostrated her shapely form on convenient sofas, but 
 the fingers of her passion touched no chord on the harp 
 of a thousand strings, and, like Peri, disconsolate at 
 the gate of Paradise, she found herself powerless to 
 obtain that priceless tribute of human sympathy — a 
 tear." 
 
 The next day the Anchoria's passengers took the 
 train for Greenock, twenty-two miles from Glasgow 
 down the Clyde, as she had dropped down on account 
 of the tide in the Clyde not suiting her hour to sail, 
 which was 5 p. m., and we were soon on board on our 
 way back to our native heath. 
 
 Greenock, by the way, is the place where lie buried 
 the father and grandfather of James Watt, and James 
 Watt himself was born here, and here, also, lies Eobert 
 Burns' *' Highland Mary." 
 
 The next morning when we awoke we found our- 
 selves only one hundred and fifty miles on our journey, 
 as we were anchored in Lough Foyle, off Moville in 
 the county of Donegal, where Glasgow steamers 
 bound for America always wait for the passengers 
 from Londonderry, or *' Derry," as they call it in 
 Ireland. 
 
 I would have been very glad to go to Londonderry, 
 which has stood many sieges during Ireland's troub- 
 lous times, but was never taken, and hence proudly 
 
LONDONDEERY. 547 
 
 bears to this day the undisputed title of the " Maiden 
 City." 
 
 The most terrible siege which it ever sustained, 
 and which Macaulay says was the most memorable in 
 the annals of the British Isles, lasted one hundred and 
 five days before deliverance came and raised the siege 
 on the last day of July, 1689. The garrison had been 
 reduced from 7,000 to 4,000 men, and it was estimated 
 that King James, who had returned from France, and 
 was operating against King William III., in Ireland, 
 lost 8,000 men during the three and a half months of 
 the awful siege. 
 
 The defense was mainly conducted by a preacher by 
 the name of Walker, whom William afterwards made 
 a Bishop in recognition of his gallant services, but being 
 brave to rashness, he exposed himself so needlessly at 
 the glorious victory of the Boyne, July 12, 1690, the 
 next year, that he was unfortunately killed by a cannon 
 ball. 
 
 When William heard of Walker's death, he felt that 
 the Bishop had been entirely out of place to be among 
 the combatants, and accordingly with the indifference 
 born of his phlegmatic Teutonic temperament, he 
 paid very little attention to the Bishop's sad mishap, 
 but when an attendant said to him : — 
 
 " Sir, the Bishop of Derry has been killed by a shot 
 at the ford." 
 
 ** What took him there? " growled the king. 
 
 While the ship was lying at anchor in Lough Foyle, 
 several of us went ashore, tried a little " poteen," 
 
548 A KNIGHT TEMPLAR ABROAD. 
 
 which we found to be of such strength that it would 
 not probably have taken many potations to floor 
 one, so we prudently took a ride in an Irish jaunting- 
 car, with a " Jarvey " for a driver, for a couple of 
 miles, out to an old fort, which was said to date back 
 to the days of the O's and the Mac's, this fortress being 
 said to have been built by one Irish king, Fergus 
 O'Donnell, away back yonder in the dim vista of the 
 past. 
 
 While we were on our way, four of us sitting in the 
 jaunting-car, back to back, and enjoying the beautiful 
 and romantic scenery of the Emerald Isle, where the 
 grass really seems more verdant than any grass I had 
 ever seen, and of which country, Froude, the historian, 
 says, that " it is certainly the most beautiful country 
 in the world," we met two policemen, with guns on 
 their shoulders, coming in to Moville, so that we came 
 to the conclusion that probably the average Irish 
 policeman prefers to have company when on the scent 
 of the last alleged " horrible agrarian outrage." 
 
 The jaunting car is said to have been invented in 
 the Waterloo year, by an Italian, by the name of Bian- 
 coni, and is said to be extremely well adapted to the 
 hilly roads of Ireland, though one great objection to ' 
 them is that they are all open to the weather, and can 
 not carry either many persons or very much luggage 
 at a time. After returning from our ride on Irish 
 soil, we went aboard of the Anchoria, just before she 
 weighed her anchor. Soon her propeller began to 
 revolve, and we were once more leaving behind us 
 
HOMEWARD BOUND. 549 
 
 (most of US, no doubt like myself with little regret) 
 a foreign shore. 
 
 Little more remains now to be said, except that, 
 after a very stormy and unpleasant voyage of twelve 
 days, during which the greater portion of the passen- 
 gers had been confined to their state-rooms, with the 
 same old mdl du mer^ which they had, no doubt, like 
 myself, also encountered upon first making the inti- 
 mate acquaintance of old ocean, " A Knight Templar 
 Abroad " was allowed once more, thanks to an all-wise 
 Providence, to see the familiar shores of America, on a 
 bright September morning, and then it was, for the 
 first time, I think, in my life that I fully realized the 
 full significance of Scott's beautiful lines : — 
 
 " Breathes there the man with soul so dead, 
 Who never to himself hath said, 
 This is my own, my native land ! 
 Whose heart hath ne'er within him burned, 
 As home his footsteps he hath turned, 
 From wandering on a foreign strand? 
 If such there breathe, go, mark him well; 
 For him no minstrel raptures swell! 
 High though his titles, proud his name 
 Boundless his wealth as wish can claim; 
 Despite those titles, power, and pelf. 
 The wretch concentred all in self. 
 Living, shall forfeit fair renown, 
 And doubly dying, shall go down 
 To the vile dust from whence he sprung, 
 Unwept, unhonored, and unsung." 
 
 FINIS. 
 
rei- 
 
 7€i 
 
 1 
 

 
 •» o 
 
 .V-^ 
 •^^H^ 
 
 'o V 
 
 V 
 
 A ^^ ■ . . . 
 
 .0 
 
 ^°-;^. 
 
 K^ 
 
 0^ 
 
 .^' 
 
 4 ex 
 
 
 ■0? '^ 
 
 O 
 
 ^\ 
 
 A. 
 
 <". 
 
 
 ■a? -^ 
 
 
 ,-10. 
 
 
 4 o 
 
 
 
 

 o 
 
 
 '^6" 
 
 
 
 
 '^o^ 
 
 
 -^0^ 
 
 .^q* 
 
 0^ \C^^ °o 
 
 O ♦ o « 
 
 ^^ JAN 79 
 
 P^S N. MANCHESTER, 
 tS^m INDIANA 46962 
 
 '^^ 
 
 0^ 
 
 :i 
 
 - s « • /