WHOLESOME G3DKING 715 13 VfithoutWaste WHOLESOME COOKING A PRACTICAL BOOK FOR A PRACTICAL COOK Two hundred well-tested recipes selected hy Ethel Harris RAND McNALLY & COMPANY CHICAGO NEW YORK -t-M lS Copyright 1916 BY Rand McNally & Co. / FEB 18 1916 &CI.A420827 *>V4 I ^ SOUPS General Directions Lean beef, mutton, or veal is the basis of all good rich soups, but fresL bones and those from cooked meat and poultry, with trimmings of meats and odds and ends of vegetables, cooked or raw, make very good stock where econ- omy is desired. In seasoning soup the general rule is to use, for every quart of water used to cover the meat, a teaspoonful of salt, one of pepper, a quarter teaspoonful of celery salt, a little parsley, and half a pint of vegetables. In making stock it is a safe rule to use a quart of water to every pound of bones. Soup should always be boiled slowly. The stock will probably be reduced nearly one-half by cooking, and may be diluted for the table. Strain through the colander, and put aside to let the fat harden before removing it. To color soups brown, add a tablespoonful of caramel (browned sugar) to a pint of stock. Clear soups are dinner soups; cream soups are more appropriate for luncheons. Part beef and veal, or mutton, combined makes a better flavored stock than beef alone. A stock stronger and more palatable than the common one we call a consomme, and it serves as the foundation of soup for a formal dinner. The following directions are intended only for a very rich soup. RICH CONSOMME A veal shank weighing about two pounds, five pounds of beef and bones, a chicken (a hen will do), two carrots, one onion, half a turnip, one 6talk of celery, three quarts of water, and salt and pepper to taste. Put the beef and veal in the pot with the cold water and boil slowly, skimming until clear. After half an hour's boiling add the vegetables, and let boil for two hours; then take the veal out of the pot, as all the juices will have been extracted from it, put in the fowl, and let boil slowly for three hours more. Skim again, then remove from the fire. After it has cooled, take off any fat that has come to the top of the stock. A more economical consomme, and one quite good enough for everyday purposes, is made as follows. CLEAR SOUP or CONSOMME' Take a good-sized shank of beef, chopped in several pieces ; put it into a very large pot or divide it and put it into two smaller pots. Cover it well with cold water, leav- ing just room enough to let it boil. Aa soon as it comes to a boil set it back on the stove so that it will boil very slowly, but keep it boiling. After it has boiled three hours have ready a couple of turnips, three or four carrots, three large onions sliced, and two heads of celery. After washing these well, add them to the pot or pots. Let the stock boil slowly for three hours more and then strain through a colander and put away to cool until the next day. When it is quite cold, and the fat has risen to the top, skim it off, add pepper and salt to taste, about half a grated nutmeg, a tablespoonful each of mushroom and anchovy sauce, and tomato catchup; put it all back on the stove in a clean pot, and add the whites of three eggs well beaten. Do not skim. Let it boil five minutes, set aside a moment, then strain through a cloth laid in a sieve. This will keep for days. Heat it as you need it, and be sure that it is served very hot. The fat skimmed from the stock is excel- lent for frying potatoes. DRIED BEAN SOUP Soak one quart of beans over night in enough water to cover them well; in the WHOLESOME COOKING morning drain them and put them on the stove with four quarts of cold water and a quarter of a pound of salt pork, cut in very- small pieces. Boil slowly for three hours, keeping the pot covered. If soft enough at the end of that time, mash through a colander; if the water has boiled away too much, add a little before straining. Put in a teaspoonful of salt and a half teaspoonful of pepper, and boil for ten minutes more. This is a very economical as well as an excellent soup, particularly adapted for winter use. CANNED CORN SOUP Drain a can of corn, chop it fine in a wooden chopping bowl, add a quart of boiling water, and cook for one hour, letting it simmer. Rub through a colander, leaving the husks behind; return to the fire with the water in which it has been boiled; season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter teaspoonful of pepper, and one tablespoonful of tomato catchup, boil gently for three minutes, and stir in three tablespoonfuls of butter which has been rolled in one tablespoonful of flour. Have ready in another pot a quart of milk which has just come to the boil. Pour it over two eggs which have been previously beaten. Add milk and eggs to the soup, simmer for one minute, stirring all the time, take up, and serve very hot. The eggs may be omitted and flour used to thicken the soup, if economy is desired. In this case, mix two tablespoon- fuls of flour to a smooth paste in a cup of cold water before putting it in the soup. POTATO SOUP Boil and mash ten medium-sized potatoes, seasoning with a teaspoonful of salt and pep- per. Add enough milk to enable the potatoes to be pressed through a sieve. Then add a quart of milk in which an onion has been scalded, remove the onion, and boil all the other ingredients together for one minute. Put a tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley in the bottom of the tureen, pour in the soup, and serve. CREAM TOMATO SOUP Heat half a can of tomatoes and half a cup of water, putting in half a teaspoonful of soda, and keep on the stove until soft. Mix three tablespoonfuls of flour or cornstarch with enough milk to make a smooth thin batter; add a piece of butter half the size of an egg; season with a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter teaspoonful of pepper, and a table- spoonful of mushroom catchup. Add one quart of morning's milk, pouring slowly over the tomatoes and stirring constantly until the soup thickens; strain at once through a sieve. Heat in a double boiler before serving. If the milk is not morning's milk, it is liable to curdle. OYSTER SOUP Put a quart of milk into a double boiler. When it is scalding hot add a pint of milk in which three tablespoonfuls of cornstarch have been blended, a piece of butter the size of an egg, a half teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter teaspoonful of pepper. Stir slowly while adding this to the milk in the double boiler, and continue stirring until it is as thick as boiled custard. Drain a quart of oysters and add them to the mixture. Let them cook until they begin to shrivel a little, then serve very hot. TURKEY OR CHICKEN SOUP Take any bones left from roasted fowls, break them apart, and put them with the meat and skin into a soup kettle with two quarts of cold water, or a little more if that is not sufficient to cover them well. Add three medium-sized onions, sliced, and four blades of celery cut into half-inch pieces. Let this heat slowly, and boil very slowly. When almost done, add a couple of tablespoonfuls of the cold stuffing and, after boiling a few minutes more, lift out the bones and strain the soup through a colander. When it is cool skim off the fat that has risen to the sur- face, and put away ready for use. Add pep- per and salt just Defore heating the soup for the table. FRENCH VEGETABLE SOUP To two quarts of boiling water add one cup- ful each of diced carrots, turnips, potatoes, and onions. Let simmer in a closed sauce- pan for half an hour, then add two tablespoon- fuls of butter, one tablespoonful of salt, and SOUPS three tablespoonfuls of cream. The vege- tables must be well done, but not broken. Other vegetables may be added, such as a cupful of peas or small beans. If either of the latter be a left-over, and therefore cooked, it may be run through a sieve and the puree added to the soup. RICE AND TOMATO SOUP Strain and press through a sieve with a wooden spoon one half of a three-pound can of tomatoes, and stir into them two quarts of clear stock that has been made from bones. Season with a teaspoonf ul of salt and a quarter teaspoonful of pepper, add four ounces of rice that has been washed in plenty of cold water, and boil the soup slowly for three quarters of an hour. ONION SOUP One quart of milk, two large onions, one tablespoonful of butter. Brown the butter slightly in a saucepan, slice in the onions, and let them cook through and brown, but not burn. Heat the milk to boiling point. Cut two slices of bread in inch pieces and lay in a tureen. Put the cooked onions on the bread, and pour over them the hot milk and one cup of hot cream. Season with a teaspoonful of salt and a quarter tea- spoonful of pepper. ONION AND CELERY SOUP A half cupful of chopped onions, a half cup- ful of chopped celery, three cupfuls of water, one tablespoonful of butter, one tablespoon- ful of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, a liberal shaking of pepper, and milk or cream as needed. Prepare the onions and celery and simmer slowly in the water until tender. This will require over an hour. Then run through fruit press, return to kettle, add seasoning, rub butter smooth with flour, pour on some of the hot soup, then return to kettle and boil well. Now add milk or thin cream until it is of the desired consistency. It should be rather thin. SPLIT PEA SOUP Soak one cup split peas over night in cold water. In the morning drain, then add two and one half quarts of water, a quarter of a pound of salt pork, and one onion chopped fine. Simmer slowly until soft, then press through a strainer. Add a teaspoonful of butter, two tablespoonfuls of flour (mixed with little cold water) ; then add a teaspoon- ful of salt, a quarter teaspoonful of pepper, and two cups of hot milk and let come to the boiling point. Serve hot. DUCHESS SOUP Two slices each of carrot and onion cooked in a tablespoonful of butter five minutes. Add one quart of white stock and one small blade of mace and cook for fifteen minutes. Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter, stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour until free from lumps, add gradually the seasoned stock, one half tablespoonful of salt, one saltspoonful of pep- per, and one pint of rich milk. Stir in four tablespoonfuls of grated cheese. Cook two minutes. WHITE SOUP STOCK Put four pounds of knuckle of veal in a pot, cover with two quarts of cold water, add one tablespoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of pep- per, one onion, one blade of mace, two stalks of celery. Bring all to the boiling point, then simmer for four or five hours, strain and cool, and skim off fat. White stock may also be made from chicken, but is more expensive than the veal stock. CLAM SOUP To a quart of clam juice add a cupful of hot milk; thicken with a tablespoonful of but- ter and one of flour blended together, then add the clams, chopped fine, season, and bring the soup again to the boiling point. A spoon- ful of whipped cream served on each plate of soup is an improvement. CROUTONS FOR SOUP Cut bread into slices one inch thick, remove the crust, butter the bread, and cut into cubes half an inch square. Brown in oven or fry in deep lard. CREAM OF MUSHROOM SOUP Cut one and a half cupfuls of mushrooms into fine pieces. Cook in two tablespoonfuls WHOLESOME COOKING of melted butter until tender, but not brown; remove the mushrooms, and brown one tablespoonful of flour in the butter. Then cook another cup and a half of diced mush- rooms in one pint of milk and one half-pint of cream. Cook in a double boiler until the cream has a mushroom flavor, then remove mushrooms and add the hot milk and oream to the cooked flour, mixing the two gradually. Return to the double boiler, add all the mush- rooms, and cook until of good consistency, then strain and serve very hot. FISH General Directions The principal thing to be considered in buying fish is its freshness. This can be determined by the fullness and prominence of the eyes, the thickness and firmness of the flesh, and the brightness of the scales and gills. When fish is to be fried or broiled have the steaks cut about an inch and a half thick. Full directions for baking any kind of fish are given below, also directions for boiling fish. BAKED FISH WITH DRESSING Fish with white flesh are best suited for baking. These are pickerel, pike, white fish, and bass. Wash, salt, then wipe the fish that has been trimmed to suit. Score the sides a very little to prevent bursting open, then rub inside with a little salt and pepper, fill with any of the dressings, sew carefully with soft cotton, then sprinkle a little more salt and pepper on both sides and either dredge well with flour or give it a very fine sifting of cracker crumbs on top. Omit crumbs on bottom, as they are likely to scorch. A covered roaster is best, as the browning process can be better regulated. Some skewer the fish into a circular shape, but it may be laid in pan straight. As fish is dry, plenty of butter is needed; a few strips of 3alt pork should be laid over the fish and the pan put into a hot oven without adding water. After the fish begins to brown a half- pint of water and a large tablespoonful of butter can be poured over. A medium-sized fish, of three to four pounds, will require about forty to fifty minutes, but let this be your test:' Try where fish is thickest; insert a fork carefully; if it is flaky and separates readily, the fish is done. In taking up great care must be exercised not to break the fish. To serve baked fish, garnish with sprigs of parsley and pour a few spoonfuls of melted "not browned" butter over. Fluffy mashed potatoes and creamed onions are a good accompaniment. Dressing for Baked Fish One half loaf of baker's bread, one fourth cupful of minced Spanish onions, two eggs, one tablespoonful of butter, one half tea- spoonful of salt, one half saltspoonful of pepper, water as needed. Scrape the crumbs out of the half-loaf, leaving only the thin crust. Cover with cold water for a few minutes, press dry between the hands, and fluff apart. Add the seasoning and well beaten eggs. Cook but not brown the onions in the butter, add to bread, stir well with a fork, and then fill the fish and bake as directed. BOILED TROUT Prepare fish as directed for baking. If an oblong kettle is at hand lay the fish on a small old platter; if it must be cooked in a round kettle use a plate, and curve fish by tying a broad band of muslin around it. Now slip a piece of cheesecloth or clean muslin under the plate and tie or pin into a loop. Through this, slide a long-handled spoon FISH or a stick, which must rest on sides of kettle and keep the fish hanging under water, but so as not to touch bottom. The kettle must be large enough to have fish well immersed and water be boiling briskly, one tablespoon- ful of salt for about six cups of water, and either one spoonful of vinegar or two slices of lemon may be added; this makes the flesh firm. Allow about ten minutes for each pound. Test as for baking after lifting from kettle. If flesh does not flake easily return once more to the kettle. When draining slide fish on to an old folded towel to drip, then transfer to a hot platter, and garnish with little sprigs of parsley; then serve with sauce in separate bowl. Boiled fish is insipid unless it is served with a piquant sauce. FRIED FISH Perch, small river trout, and any of the large salt-water or fresh fish cut into suitable pieces may be fried. Rub fish well with salt and pepper, dredge with flour or dip in a well beaten egg and roll in cracker dust. Have a generous piece of fresh lard and a little ham or bacon fat in a pan. Cook fish a nice golden brown on both sides. As soon as it flakes when tried with a fork drain off the fat carefully, then put a liberal piece of butter in the pan; let this bubble, but not get too brown; turn fish carefully so all parts come in contact with the butter, then serve on hot platter. The cooking of the fish in the lard is to pre- vent it from scorching, and after draining off the fat the butter imparts the delicate flavor fried fish should have; this is also more economical. Unless you often fry fish it may not be best to keep the fat, as it can be used only for fish. CREAMED SALT MACKEREL Soak the fish over night and wipe dry before using. Broil on a buttered gridiron over a clear fire. Lay on a hot dish and pour over it a cream sauce made as follows : Into one cup of boiling water stir two teaspoonfuls of cornstarch rubbed smooth with one tablespoonful of butter; cook until well thickened^ Add a well beaten egg, mixing carefully * to prevent curdling. Cook a moment longer, and season with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and a saltspoonful of pepper. CODFISH A LA CREME Pick the requisite amount of salt codfish, which has been well soaked, into small pieces, cover with cold water, let it heat gradually to near boiling, and then drain. If it is not then fresh enough cover again with fresh, cold water and repeat the slow heating, removing from the fire the instant it reaches the boiling point, and drain on a sieve. Make a white sauce, put in the fish, and cook until the whole is near boiling. To make this richer mix the yolks of two eggs with half a cupful of cream and add to the sauce before the fish is put in. And to make still richer, add an ounce of butter in small pieces after the eggs and cream and just before the fish. Serve over boiled new potatoes. BOILED WHITE FISH Wash well in cold water a nice fresh fish, wipe carefully, and rub with salt. Wrap in a thin cloth, and place in two quarts of boiling water, to which have been added a half cupful of vinegar, six cloves, six pepper corns, and one bay leaf. Allow ten minutes to each pound of fish. Then remove care- fully, and garnish with sliced lemon and parsley. PLANKED WHITE FISH Clean and split the fish and take out the backbone. Put skin side down on an oak y>lank one inch thick, and a little larger than the fish. Cover the plank where exposed with salt, and pepper it lightly; brush over with melted butter. Bake about twenty minutes under the flame of a gas Rtove. Send to the table on the plank. BROILED SHAD ROE Wipe, sprinkle with salt and pepper, put in greased wire broiler, and broil on each side for five minutes. Serve with mattre d'h6tel butter. 8 WHOLESOME COOKING CREAMED OYSTERS Melt one tablespoonful of butter in small frying pan on stt je, stirring in slowly, as it melts, a heaping tablespoonful of flour; add one pint of cream, stirring all the time. When it begins to thicken, take from the fire for a few minutes, and add the beaten yolk of an egg, stirred in well, and return to the fire. Keep stirring while you heat to the scalding ^mt a pint of oysters in their own liquor; skim them carefully, ^rain off the liquor, and add them to the cream. Just before serving add a tablespoonful of sherry. OYSTER PATTIES Prepare a cream sauce by above recipe, but do not put in any sherry. Wnen the oysters and sauce are piping ho*, put in shells of paste, which may be bought at any pastry cook's for that purpose, pud which are gen- erally more satisfactory rhan those made at home. After filling the shells put them in the oven a moment or two to heat. (The shells have, of course, been heated before the oysters have been put in them.) CREAMED CRABS Remove meat from as many crab shells as there are guests, carefully preserving the shells. Have ready a sauce similar to that for creamed oysters, add the crab meat to the sauce, mix well, then refill the shells. Put finely grated bread crumbs dotted with bits of butter on top, and put the shells in a roasting pan in the oven until the bread crumbs are browned. Lobsters are also good prepared in this manner; in fact, the recipe given above for cream sauce is a capital foundation for any kind of creamed fish, or shellfish. _ Cold cooked fish is very good warmed over in this way. PIGS IN BLANKETS Drain twenty-five oysters and season with salt and pepper. Cut very fat pork or bacon into thin shoes, wrap an oyster in each slice, and fasten with a wooden toothpick; fry in a hot pan in the grease of the bacon until brown on both sides. Serve on small tri- angles of toast with a garnish of parsley. FRIED SMELTS Wash and dry well two pounds of smelts. Break two eggs, beat well, and season with pepper and salt. Dip the fish in the egg and then roll in bread crumbs or oatmeal. Fry to a light brown in lard or clarified dripping. Serve immediately after cooking, or they will lose their freshness and crispness. Garnish with slices of lemon and parsley. Smelts make a good breakfast or luncheon dish. CREAMED SALMON One can of salmon pulled into fine pieces with a fork. Make a sauce as follows: Boil one pint of milk, thickened with two Jablespoonfuls of cornstarch which has first been mixed with a cup of cold milk. Add two tablespoonfuls of butter, half a teaspoon- ful of salt, and half a saltspoonful of pepper. Prepare one pint of grated bread crumbs. In a pudding dish put a thin layer of bread crumbs, then a layer of the salmon, then of the sauce; fill the dish in this manner, having the bread crumbs on top, dot with bits of butter, and bake in the oven until brown. FINNAN HADDIE Wash the fish, put in a kettle of boiling water and boil twenty minutes, then lift on to a hot platter and pour over it a cupful of cream or rich milk which has been previously heated. Some people prefer to soak the finnan haddie for an hour in cold water, then to drain it well and put it in a very hot frying pan in which a tablespoonful of dripping or lard has been heated, and fry slowly until it is a light brown and cooked through. Serv. with a tablespoonful and a half of mellflf butter poured over the top. SCALLOPED OYSTERS Scale and beard one quart oysters, strain the liquor into a stew pan, add to it two ounces butter mixed with two ounces flour, a little cream, anchovy sauce, nutmeg, cayenne, and salt. Put this over the fire and boil ten minutes, add the yolks of two eggs, a little lemon juice, and a little chopped parsley; cut the oysters in halves, add them, and stir all together over the fire for a few FISH SAUCES, MEATS minutes. Now fill your shells or baking dish with this preparation and cover with a thin layer of bread crumbs; place in the oven for a few minutes, brown, and serve hot. After adding the oysters to the sauce be careful not to allow them to remain too long over the fire, or they will become tough and the sauce watery. SCALLOPED CLAMS Same as for scalloped oysters, except that the clams should be chopped and a suspicion of mace or nutmeg added to the other sea- soning. COLD BOILED LOBSTER Wash and brush thoroughly a live lobster, tie claws and tail with twine, and plunge into boiling water in which has been put a teaspoonful of salt. Boil ten minutes, then move to back of range and let simmer for thirty minutes. Drain and cool, and eat with tartar or mayonnaise sauce. FISH SAUCES Mayonnaise To the mashed yolks of two hard-boiled eggs add a dessert-spoonful of dry mustard, half a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, a tea- spoonful and a half of salt, the yolks of two raw eggs, a pint of olive oil put in drop by drop while stirring, the juice of half a lemon, a quarter of a cupful of cream, a quarter of a cupful of vinegar. Put in a cool place or on ice. Tartar Sauce • Tartar sauce is made by adding to the mayonnaise given above, two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped green onions and pickled gherkins, with a few capers. Drawn Butter with Eggs Rub together one half cupful of butter ana two tablespoonfuls of flour, then stir in one pint of boiling water, or, if you prefer, use part milk. Let boil and add a half teaspoon- ful of salt. If used for fish, boil two eggs hard, slice them, and add to sauce. If the sauce is intended for new potatoes add a little chopped parsley. For cauliflower the sauce is very good with the addition of a little grated cheese. Tomato Sauce Let one chopped onion brown in one tablespoonful of butter; add three table- spoonfuls of tomato catchup and two table- spoonfuls of butter and minced parsley. Stir well, and pour over fish. Maitre d'Hotel Butter Mix two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped parsley with three tablespoonfuls of cold unmelted butter. Lay this in small pieces over the fish, to be melted by the heat from it. MEATS General Directions In selecting a roast it is poor economy to buy anything but what the butchers call "heavy" beef. This has more nourishment in it than the lighter beef, being well streaked with fat. Mutton should be hung for at least a week before using. Get your butcher to weigh and trim a leg of mutton and put it in his refrigerator until it is needed. Pork is fit for the table only in the fall and winter, and should be very thor- oughly cooked. All meats should be washed in cold water when they come from the butcher's, and dried with a clean cloth. ROAST BEEF to the pound is the average allowance for The best pieces for roasting are the sirloin cooking. Dredge your meat lightly with and the rib roasts. Twelve to fifteen minutes flour, add a cupful of cold water to baste 10 WHOLESOME COOKING with, cover tightly (there are pans made specially for roasting meat), and baste every fifteen minutes. Never touch the meat with a fork while* it is cooking, as this allows the juices to escape. Do not season it with salt or pepper until it is well seared over, as the salt has the effect of drawing out the juice. Put it in a very hot oven to start, and after fifteen minutes lessen the heat, and cook slowly the remainder of the time. These directions hold good for any kind of roast. Roast beef should be served with a thick brown gravy, the directions for which are given under the head of "Gravy"; and Yorkshire pudding is always a good addition to a roast of beef. Yorkshire Pudding To two eggs beaten very light allow two cupfuls of milk and two cupfuls of flour, with a teaspoonful of baking powder; mix well. Take three large spoonfuls of gravy from the beef roast, put in a breadpan, and let it come to a boil on top of the stove ; then pour in the batter and let it bake thirty minutes in the oven. When it is done cut it into squares with a sharp knife, and put on the platter around the roast. ROAST TURKEY After the turkey is drawn, which is gener- ally done at the butcher's, wash the inside out well in salt and water, fold the wings back and fasten them with a skewer, skewer the legs together, and bind strips of salt pork over the breast and legs to keep the turkey from drying too much. The dressing has been inserted before the legs have been skewered, and is made as follows: One quart of bread crumbs, one and a half tea- spoonfuls of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, two tablespoonfuls of butter melted, beaten yolks of two eggs, four tablespoonfuls of summer savory, one tablespoonful of sage; moisten this with water and stuff the turkey with it. After the lower part is filled, make a slit in the neck and fill the breast so it will look plump. Sometimes chopped oysters are used in place of the herbs. A turkey should cook very slowly and be well basted. A turkey weighing seven or eight pounds will require two hours or mora if cooked in a very slow oven. ROAST CHICKEN Chicken should be prepared in the same manner as turkey, and the same recipe for stuffing used. For a medium-sized chicken three-quarters of an hour in a slow oven will be required. BEEFSTEAK The best cuts of steak are the porterhouse and the sirloin. A steak should be cut three inches thick, for it shrinks in the cooking, and a thick steak when broiled over a good fire is quickly seared on the outside and preserves the juice. A steak should never be cooked in any way but broiling. When it is put on a hot platter for serving, pour over it three large tablespoonfuls of melted butter seasoned with pepper and salt and a little Worcestershire sauce. This with the juice of the meat will make sufficient gravy. Never under any circumstances put water in the gravy. ROAST MUTTON OR LAMB Lamb and mutton should be washed and wiped dry, then put in a hot oven with a cup of water for basting and well dredged with flour. Salt and pepper should be added half an hour before the roast is taken out. It should be basted every fifteen minutes, and the time allowance should be twelve minutes to the pound. Lower the gas in the oven after the first fifteen minutes. ROAST PORK Pork requires very slow and thorough cooking, so it is best to allow twenty minutes to the pound. Prepare in the same manner as you would a roast of beef. Sometimes a leg of pork is boned and stuffed with bread crumbs and sage and onions. Apple sauce is served with it. The gravy should be thick, the recipe for which is given under the head of "Gravy." ROAST FILLET OF VEAL A fillet of veal is cut from the upper part of the leg. Have the butcher remove the MEATS 11 bone and bind and skewer it up securely, leaving the space where the bone was taken out for the stuffing to be put in. Season three pints of bread crumbs with pepper and salt and the grated rind of a lemon. With this put three tablespoonfuls of summer savory, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Bind these ingredients together with a beaten egg, fill the space in the fillet where the bone was, lay two slices of fat salt pork on top, and dredge with flour. Put a cup of water into the roasting pan to baste with; cover the pan when the roast is in, and cook in an oven that has been made very hot for the first fifteen minutes, then cool it off a little and cook slowly (two hours will be required for a six-pound roast). During the last half -hour have the cover removed so the meat will be well browned. With the dressing that is left make little balls about the size of new potatoes, fry in lard, and put around the veal when it is served, alternating with thin slices of lemon. Serve with this a thick brown gravy made by the same recipe as that given for roast-beef gravy. VEAL LOAF OR BEEF LOAF Three and a half pounds of raw veal put through the mincer with one half-pound of salt pork. Add one small tablespoonful of salt, half a tablespoonful of pepper, two cupfuls of rolled cracker or bread crumbs, two cupfuls of milk, two beaten eggs, a quar- ter cup of melted butter, and half an onion minced fine. Mix the dry ingredients, add the liquids, and mold with the hands into the shape of a loaf of bread. Bake in a covered pan with two cups of water to baste it with. Cook slowly for nearly two hours; uncover the last half-hour to brown. Beef loaf is also made by this recipe, substituting beef for the veal. Round steak may be used. RABBIT STEW Wash the rabbit well, cut it into quarters, lard them well with slices of bacon, and fry them; then put them into a stew pan with little more than a pint of broth or stock, some savory herbs, salt and pepper to taste. Simmer gently until the rabbit is tender. Then strain the gravy. Make a roux of one tablespoonful of melted butter and three tablespoonfuls of flour; cook until very thick, add gravy, let come to a boil, pour over the rabbit, and serve. Garnish with slices of bacon. VEAL CUTLETS WITH TOMATO SAUCE Select the nicest cuts of veal chops, sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper, then roll in cracker crumbs and fry in plenty of butter until well done. Have ready a sauce made of one coffee cupful of canned tomatoes, in which has been cooked one small onion chopped fine; add a saltspoonful of salt and half as much pepper. Cook slowly a long time until the onion is tender and the sauce thick. Add a teaspoonful of butter and pour over the chops. Serve hot at once. STUFFED ROAST GOOSE After stuffing and trussing the bird sprinkle with salt and pepper and lay thin strips of fat salt pork on breast. Stuffing: Finely chop one onion, add one fourth cupful finely chopped salt pork; cook ten minutes; strain off fat. To fat add one and one fourth cups soft stale bread crumbs and two cups riced potatoes, one third cup butter, one third cup finely chopped celery, one egg slightly beaten; season. Cook goose in oiled paper bag or in roaster, and baste every fifteen minutes. VEAL BIRDS Two pounds veal chops (about), one bunch parsley, two ounces bacon, one half onion, one half cupful bread crumbs, one saltspoon- ful salt, one fourth saltspoonful paprika. Cut veal in three-inch squares. Put bones in soup kettle. Pound each piece out flat, place on top of a strip of thin bacon three inches long and a half inch wide a spray of parsley and a teaspoonful of bread crumbs. Sprinkle with salt and paprika and add a few drops of onion juice. Roll the veal tightly and skewer in place with metal skewers. Brown in hot fat and place in casserole. With the fat in which the birds have been browned make a thin brown sauce and add to the cas- serole, covering the birds. Bake until tender. When ready to serve arrange the birds on 12 WHOLESOME COOKING the platter, remove the skewers, cover with brown sauce, and garnish with sprigs of pars- ley. SPANISH STEW Put a pound of round steak through the meat grinder and grind it fine. Have in a saucepan, smoking hot, two tablespoonfuls of meat drippings, or of lard and butter mixed. Into this turn your ground meat, which should have been dredged with flour, brown the meat in the fat, and have ready a large onion chopped fine. Pour a cupful of hot water over the meat and add the onion. This liquid will make a brown gravy for the onion to cook in. After five minutes add two thirds of a can of tomatoes and a good-sized red pepper. If one prefers the taste of cayenne, one may add this to taste. Simmer all together until the onion is done. Have ready a cupful of boiled macaroni and mix it with the foregoing stew. It is well to season the macaroni with cayenne while it is cooking. Before serving this dish add one teaspoonful of salt. CREAMED CALF'S BRAINS Blanch the brains by parboiling them and remove all bits of string and skin. Throw into cold water and, when cold, cut into pieces about an inch square. Cook together a table- spoonful of flour and one of butter and pour upon them a cup of rich milk, seasoned with a saltspoonful of salt and a quarter saltspoon- ful of cayenne. Add a pinch of baking soda to the milk. When the sauce is smooth and thick add a tablespoonful of minced parsley and the brains. Stir until well heated, then Eut in gradually, stirring all the time, the eaten yolk of an egg, and when this has cooked for a minute add a tablespoonful of sherry. Serve on a hot dish, garnishing with small triangles of toast. JUGGED RABBIT Into a stone crock slice a large onion and add one half teaspoonful each of salt, pepper, paprika, and a quarter saltspoonful of cayenne. Put into the crock the jointed rabbit, which has been cleaned and laid for an hour in cold water to which a cup of vinegar has been added . Cover the rabbit with sliced bacon and cover all with water. Put the top on the crock and jravy bake slowly for an hour. Thicken the gravy before serving the rabbit. STEWED BEEF HEART Soak the heart in cold water for several hours to draw out the blood. With a sharp knife cut out the muscles and tough top. Dry and fill with this stuffing: One cupful of fine stale bread crumbs, one half teaspoon- ful of salt, one quarter teaspoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful of chopped onion, a half tea- spoonful of dried sweet herbs, two tablespoon- fuls of melted butter. Sew the top well together and wrap in a piece of cheesecloth. Fit it into a small saucepan, point downward, pour in enough boiling water to come almost to the top, add a tablespoonful of tomato catchup and a half teaspoonful of salt, cover, and simmer slowly for three hours. Remove the heart and keep it hot. Thicken the gravy with slightly browned flour, boil, and add sea- soning and two or three tablespoonfuls of sherry. Strain and serve, passing currant jelly with the meat. PIGEON PIE This is Mrs. Abraham Lincoln's recipe Make a fine puff paste; lay a border of it around a large dish and cover the bottom with a veal cutlet or a tender steak. Sprinkle with a half teaspoonful of salt, a half saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, and a saltspoonful of mace. Prepare as many pigeons as can be put in one layer on the dish, breast downward. Sprinkle the birds with a half teaspoonful of salt and a quarter saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, dot with butter, and cover with sliced, hard- boiled eggs (six). Add a cupful or two of veal broth, cover with a crust, and bake slowly for one hour and a half. ENGLISH BEEFSTEAK PUDDING Remove the membrane from half a pound of beef suet and put it through the chopper. Mix it with a pint of sifted flour, a teaspoon- ful of salt, and a dash of pepper. Add suf- ficient ice water to mix to a stiff dough and roll out three quarters of an inch thick. _ Cut two pounds of round steak into inch pieces, season with one teaspoonful of salt and one saltspoonful of pepper, and dredge lightly with MEATS, MEAT SAUCES 13 flour. Thickly butter a two-quart bowl, lay the dough in it, press lightly so that it will fit well, and trim it off, leaving an inch or more at the top. Fill with the meat and add a half cupful of cold, thin gravy, tomato sauce, stock or water. Roll out the trimmings to form a cover and lay it over the top, moisten- ing, and slightly pressing the edges to make them adhere. Wring a thick cloth out of cold water, dredge well with flour, lay over the top, gather it under the bottom of the bowl and tie firmly. Put a plate or trivet in the bottom of a kettle of boiling water, stand the pudding on it, and boil hard and steadily for three hours. LIVER A LA BEGUE This is a recipe from the famous Begu6 restaurant of New Orleans Secure a fine bit of calf liver, fresh and of good color. Skin well. Have a quantity of lard in a frying pan, well heated. Slice the liver in thick slices. Place in the lard and let it cook slowly, after seasoning with pepper and salt. Let the lard cover the liver. Sim- mer over a slow fire and when cooked drain off the grease and serve on a hot plate. TRIPE A LA CAEN Assuming that the tripe has been properly cleaned and washed (not pickled), cut two pounds into ribbons an inch wide and three inches long. Cut a quarter of a pound of bacon into dice; bone a calf's foot, cut into six pieces and cook with the bacon until half done, stirring to prevent burning. Next put into a saucepan with the tripe ten tiny onions, two carrots cut into dice, three cloves, a blade of mace, half a dozen sprigs of parsley, and a gill of brandy. Salt and pepper to taste. Over all pour one quart 01 veal stock. Simmer for half an hour, then turn into an earthen jar with a cover (or a brass jar will do). Bake until thoroughly done. Remove the parsley, skim off the fat, and 6erve in the jar — known in France as a "marmite" — hot. This dish may be cooked over a gas plate with the flame turned low, if it is not con- venient to use the oven. TO CLARIFY DRIPPINGS To clarify drippings use beef suet prefer- ably, but any trimmings of fat (except mutton and lamb) may be tried out. Put trimmings into a crock, add three quarters of a teacup of boiling water. Set the crock in a pot of boiling water and put all on one corner of the range, where the suet will melt slowly. Pour the fat off into a clean bowl or jar as it melts, and add a little more boil- ing water to the unmelted suet. When all is melted strain, and set aside for use. Keep cold. Every day all the bits of fat left from meat, the fat skimmed from soup and gravy, should be saved, melted in water as above directed, strained, and set aside in a cold place. Once a week these drippings should be collected, brought to the boiling point over water, strained and set aside. This process will insure sweet fat for frying or sauteing. MEAT SAUCES Gravy After meat is cooked in a frying pan or broiler, and the juice and fat caught in a pan underneath, or after it is roasted in a pan, we have the foundation for the gravy proper. A liquid made of stock, and thickened, is really a sauce and not a gravy. Take the meat out of the pan when cooked and pour off all but one tablespoonful of the fat in which it was cooked. Into this dredge as much flour as will make it a paste, and rub the two well together over the fire until cooked to a light brown. Pour over this as much boiling water as will reduce it to the thickness of cream, add a tablespoonful of mushroom catchup, if liked, and a saltspoonf ul of salt. Simmer for five or ten minutes, stirring constantly, and pour through a strainer (if not perfectly smooth) into a gravy boat, or over the meat, if this way of eating the gravy is preferred. Gravy for cold meats may be made in a similar way, and the cold slices simmered in it until heated through. Some cooks make a meat extract and keep it always on hand for the making of gravy. A pound of ham- burg steak may be gently cooked an hour or more, and the extract used for this purpose. 14 WHOLESOME COOKING Bread Sauce Put one pint of milk in a double boiler with a slicea onion. Let it cook until the milk is thoroughly seasoned with the onion, then remove the onion, put in a bit of butter half the size of an egg, cayenne pepper, and half a teaspoonful of salt. One half -hour before serving thicken with fine bread crumbs, and stir until smooth. This sauce requires some care in making, as it should be per- fectly smooth. This sauce is used for poultry and game, beside the usual brown gravy. Mint Sauce Pick all the leaves from a good-sized bunch of mint and chop them fine, add a small tablespoonf ul of white sugar, and four table- spoonfuls of best vinegar. Let stand for a couple of hours before using. There should be two tablespoonfuls of the mint, after it is chopped, to this amount of vinegar. To be eaten with lamb. VEGETABLES Time Table for Vegetables Boil potatoes half an hour if of medium size, less time if they are very small. Medium-sized onions should be given an hour; peas and asparagus, twenty-five minutes; green corn, twenty-five minutes; cabbage and cauli- flower, thirty minutes; carrots and turnips, forty-five minutes when young and in winter, an hour. Beets take an hour in summer, and from an hour and a half to two hours in winter. Lima beans take half an hour when young, forty-five minutes when old. At a first glance it may seem that undue prominence has been given to the potato, but when one takes into consideration that for three hundred and sixty- five days in the year the potato in some form or other makes its appearance on the table, always at dinner and often for luncheon, there can scarcely be too many methods by which its manner of serving may be varied. EGG PLANT FRIED Slice the egg plant into half-inch slices and let it lie in salted water for three hours. Dip in beaten egg and cracker crumbs. Fry in hot butter, turning carefully until it is cooked through and a light brown in color. BREADED ONIONS Slice Bermuda onions, roll in egg and cracker crumbs, and fry in bacon fat; brown well. SUCCOTASH Stew in least possible quantity of water equal parts of green corn, and lima or string beans until tender; add one half cupful of cream or milk, a lump of butter half the size of an egg, pepper, and salt. The water should of course be drained off before the cream is added. ITALIAN SPAGHETTI Cook in three pints of water two pounds of lean, tender beef cut into inch squares. When done remove the meat from the broth and place in a hot spider with a tablespoonf ul of ham or bacon drippings, and when browned nicely on all sides set back on the range until ready to serve. Take one half package of spaghetti broken in two-inch lengths, blanched, add to the meat broth with one can of strained tomato, a tiny clove of garlic, one can of button mushrooms, and one half cupful of grated cheese. Season with one teaspoonful of salt and one saltspoonful of pepper and simmer one half hour. Place the meat in the center of the platter and surround with the spaghetti mixture. " This dish is almost a meal in itself. One cupful of dried mushrooms soaked in cold water VEGETABLES over night may be used in place of the fresh or canned with equally good results. SPAGHETTI AND CHEESE ROMAINE Two cupfuls of broken spaghetti, one cupful of minced cheese, one cupful of milk, butter the size of an egg, yolks of two eggs. This dish should be quite yellow. Cook the spaghetti twenty minutes in boiling salted water and drain dry. Put the cheese, butter, and half the milk into a saucepan. Add a saltspoonful each of salt and pepper. Then add the whole to the spaghetti. Put in a baking dish and bake to a yellow brown as quickly as possible. SARATOGA ONIONS Peel and thinly slice three large white onions and soak in milk for ten minutes, then drain and dry on a towel. Separate the slices into rings, put a dozen or more at a time in a frying basket and plunge into smoking hot fat. Take out as soon as delicately colored, drain for a moment on unglazed paper, turn into a heated dish, dust lightly with salt, and serve at once. CARROTS IN CASSEROLE Two pounds of carrots, two tablespoonfuls of butter, a half teaspoonful of salt, a half teaspoonful of sugar, one teaspoonful of onion juice, a liberal shaking of pepper, and water as needed. Pare carrots and cut into strips size of a lead pencil. Cut these in two-inch lengths, heat butter in a close covered casserole, add the washed carrots and a very little water, about a quarter cupful to begin with, cover, and simmer over low fire. From time to time shake the kettle to prevent settling. After half an hour add the seasoning and, if needed, add a little more water, but at no time have carrots more than moist enough to prevent burning. When tender they should be deli- cately flavored and just right to take up with- out draining or needing any thickening. For a change try half this amount of carrots, and add one half can of drained green string beans half an hour before serving. In that event shake one teaspoonful of flour over and stir in with a fork five minutes before serving. FRICASSEE OF PARSNIPS Scrape the parsnips and boil in milk until they are tender, then take out and cut in four pieces, if they are large ; add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, one half teaspoonful of salt and half a saltspoonful of pepper in the milk they were boiled in, thicken it with a very little flour, put parsnips back in the dress- ing, and let them simmer about forty minutes. CORN FRITTERS One pint of grated corn, either fresh or canned, half a cup of milk, half a teaspoonful of salt, one quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful of melted butter, two eggs well beaten, one teaspoonful of baking powder, mixed with enough flour to make a thick batter. Fry by the spoonful in hot lard; turn as you would pancakes. The corn, whether fresh or canned, must have been cooked pre- vious to using it for the fritters. HOT CREAMED CABBAGE Chop fine one small cabbage, cover with boiling water, and put in soda the size of a pea; boil for fifteen minutes, then drain off the water. Melt a tablespoonful of butter, add a tablespoonful of flour, stir until smooth, add a cup of rich milk, and when it is very hot pour over the cabbage, which has been put into a vegetable dish, and serve. This may be varied by putting the cabbage into a baking dish after it has been mixed with the cream, grating cheese over the top, and letting it remain in the oven until the top is browned. CREAMED CELERY Boil in salted water (a teaspoonful of salt to a quart of water), until tender, one pint of celery cut in small pieces. Melt one large tablespoonful of butter, add two of flour, and stir in gradually one and a half cups of milk. Cook for five minutes, then drain celery, put it in a baking dish, pour the sauce over it, grate cheese on top, add some small pieces of butter, and bake until browned. FRIED TOMATOES Dip rather thick slices of tomatoes in a batter made of one egg. half a tablespoonful 16 WHOLESOME COOKING . of flour, half a teacupful of milk, and fry brown in lard or butter. SCALLOPED TOMATOES Season half a can of tomatoes with a tea- spoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and the juice of an onion. Add a cupful of finely minced celery. Butter baking dish, and first put in half of the tomatoes, then a layer of buttered soda crackers sprinkled with two heaping tablespoonfula of grated American cheese. Then add the tomatoes, sprinkle the tops with crumbs and bits of butter, and bake for twenty minutes. SPINACH A LA CREME Turn the spinach from the can an hour before cooking it. When you are ready to do this mince it fine and set over the fire in the inner vessel of a double boiler, the outer being filled with boiling water. While the spinach is heating make a roux in a frying pan of one tablespoonful of flour and two of butter. When this is smooth stir it into the hot spinach. Season with white pepper and salt to taste, with a teaspoonful of white sugar, a dash of nutmeg, and a teaspoonful of lemon juice. Beat all together over the fire and cook for ten minutes, stirring often. Heat half a cup- ful of cream in a separate vessel with a bit of soda the size of a pea, and when it is scalding hot beat into the spinach. Cook three min- utes more, stirring and beating all the time. Serve smoking hot, garnishing the dish with triangles of toast. BUTTERED BEETS Six small young beets, one tablespoonful of butter, one fourth teaspoonful of salt, a dash of paprika, a pinch of sugar. Cut the leaves from the beets, being care- ful not to cut too close, as that will let out the juices and make the beets pale and in- sipid. Wash well, then boil in enough water to cover. When tender drain, then pour cold water over. This enables you to slip the skin off. Now cut into neat slices. Heat butter in pan, add the beets and seasoning, shake, and let heat through well. When serving have vinegar on table, as it is liked by many. GENERAL RULES FOR BOILING AND BAKING POTATOES If potatoes are to be baked or boiled in the skin, select them of even size and not too large; scrub well and remove any blem- ishes. Also clip off a little piece from each end to let moisture escape. If boiled in skin put on in cold water, so that they will heat gradually, and not burst open before they are done. If peeled and boiled put on in boiling water. When tender drain well, then hold over low fire and shake kettle, lifting, then replacing cover until potatoes are dry and mealy. If boiled in skin to be used for frying or salad, drain them into a strainer and set aside to cool; this retains their shape. BAKED POTATOES Scrub and trim as directed, set in hot oven in old baking pan or on grating. Have oven very hot at first, then decrease heat and bake until they are soft and yield readily to pressure. This will require about forty-five minutes or possibly longer. STUFFED BAKED POTATOES Bake as directed. When done, cut top off lengthwise, scoop out the interior, place in hot bowl, and mash, adding salt and pepper to taste, and one tablespoonful of butter and one of milk to every two potatoes. Mash this and beat up lightly, then fill into the potato shells, dot with butter, and bake until light brown. A teaspoonful of onion juice, minced ham, or parsley, may be added to the mixture before filling. MASHED POTATOES Eight medium-sized potatoes, one table- spoonful of butter, one fourth to half a cupful of milk, one teaspoonful of salt, a few shak- ings of pepper, and water and salt for boiling as needed. Peel and cut potatoes into even pieces. When ready to cook cover with boiling water. After they have begun to boil add a teaspoon- ful of salt, boil until tender, drain and dry as directed in general notes. Now mash with a good wire potato masher until smooth. Add seasoning, butter, and milk and whisk VEGETABLES 17 with the masher or a strong fork to make them creamy. Pile lightly in hot dish to serve. CREAMED POTATOES Three cupfuls of potatoes cut into small cubes, one cupful of milk, one tablespoonful of butter, one tablespoonful of flour, salt and pepper to taste, and one tablespoonful of parsley. Cover potatoes with boiling water, adding a teaspoonful of salt, and boil until just done, but not broken. Heat milk in double boiler, rub flour and butter smooth, pour on some of the hot milk, then add to milk and boil until thickened. Season to taste, drain Eotatoes and slide into hot milk. Let ubble up once or twice, then pour into hot serving dish and sprinkle the parsley over them. O'BRIEN POTATOES Peel and dice into a baking dish nine medium-sized cold boiled potatoes, salting well. Chop one green pepper fine and par- boil for three minutes. Make a sauce of three cupfuls of milk thickened with two tablespoonf uls of flour. Stir in the parboiled shredded pepper, add to potatoes, turning grated cheese over the top and bake twenty minutes. This recipe is for a large family. CURRIED POTATOES Eight medium-sized cold boiled potatoes are diced. In a frying pan a tablespoonful of chopped onion is slowly cooked in two tablespoonfuls of butter until it begins to color. The potatoes are then added, salt, pepper, and one scant teaspoonful of curry powder sprinkled over them, and when well mixed one half of a cupful of good stock and one tablespoonful of lemon juice should be poured in. The potatoes should be care- fully tossed and cooked until all the liquid is absorbed, then dished and sprinkled with a little chopped parsley. SWEET POTATO COMPOTE Spread slices of boiled sweet potato in a buttered pudding dish. Sprinkle with brown sugar and dot with butter. On this put thin slices of peeled apple, also sugar and butter. Alternate potato and apple, having five layers altogether. Use plenty of butter and sugar. Pour over a cup of water and bake until the apple is soft and the liquid a thick sirup. BAKED POTATO ESPAGNAL Bake six medium-sized white potatoes, cut open lengthwise, and remove contents. Mash potatoes with one grated onion, one quarter teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of butter, one half cupful of cream. Replace the potatoes equally in the twelve shells. Place a pimento on top of each, and brown in the oven. SCALLOPED SWEET POTATOES Slice raw sweet potatoes very thin. Butter a pudding dish and arrange a layer of sliced potatoes in the bottom, and sprinkle with a teaspoonful of flour, several bits of butter, and a very little salt and pepper. Continue in this way until the dish is filled. Pour in enough milk to moisten the whole thor- oughly and bake for forty minutes. RAW FRIED POTATOES Pare the potatoes and slice into very thin, even slices. If potatoes are large they may be halved or even quartered before slicing. Lay in cold water at least an hour before frying. Heat about one tablespoonful of good sweet lard or unsalted beef drippings in a frying pan. Drain potatoes well, put in pan, and cover and let steam about ten minutes. During this time shake pan a few times so the potatoes will not stick, then uncover and with a spatula turn potatoes. To be correctly made raw fried potatoes should be nicely browned and tender inside; they must not be mashed or scorched. It is best to start with unsalted drippings; now begin to fry very slowly without cover; if they do not get tender in the same propor- tion as they brown cover again to let them steam. Toward the last shake half a tea- spoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper over and add a generous tablespoonful of butter. Shake and turn so all are evenly seasoned and serve very hot. To be at their best these potatoes should be served as soon 18 WHOLESOME COOKING as done. The amount of shortening given is sufficient for six to eight medium potatoes. For a change potatoes may be cut into small strips or cube3 and fried raw. HASHED BROWN POTATOES . Peel boiled potatoes, chop rather fine, add half an onion finely minced to one quart chopped potatoes. Heat an iron frying pan and put in it one tablespoonful of butter or good drippings. This portion is about right for five or six medium potatoes. At first let the potatoes cook very slowly and do not stir or lift them. After a few minutes lift the edge carefully and see if they are begin- ning to get fight brown. As soon as they are well colored lift them in as large sections as possible and turn over. Add a little more shortening and again let them brown. Now shake one teaspoonful of salt and one saltspoonful of pepper over them; turn again, and season other side. If both sides have browned well turn potatoes to one side of pan, melt a little good butter on the one side, then turn the potatoes over on that. Shake pan to spread them. Let cook a few minutes more, then serve. POTATO CONES Beat mashed potatoes until light and creamy, and form into cones, using an ice- cream mold, if you have one. Then put the potato cones into a buttered baking dish, brush with melted butter, and brown in a hot oven. POTATO ROSES Cream mashed potatoes very thoroughly by beating, and fill a pastry bag with the mixture. Hold the bag in an upright posi- tion, the tube pointing downward, and force out the potatoes and coil around in smaller and smaller circles or shape in bow knots. These should be forced out on a buttered tin and browned in the oven. A funnel of heavy brown paper may be used instead of a bag. POTATOES WITH CHEESE Press very creamy mashed potatoes into a buttered baking dish, grate cheese over it, and bake in oven for a few minutes. See recipe for Drawn Butter under "Fish Sauces" on page 9. SALADS General Directions Lettuce should be washed in cold water as soon as it comes from the shop, then put in cheesecloth or clean brown paper, well squeezed to press the water out, and then put on the ice for at least two hours before using. If these direc- tions are followed the lettuce will be crisp and cold. The oil is an important factor in making a good salad, and a reliable domestic oil is superior to the imported. If cream is used as a substitute for oil it should be thick and rich. chopped almonds and chopped pecans oyer the grape fruit, pour over the French dressing and serve. GRAPE FRUIT AND NUT SALAD Peel one large solid grape fruit, remove all white skin and peel each carpel. ^ Be careful not to squeeze so as to start the juice, but if any does flow, save it. Rub the bottom of a platter delicately with garlic, arrange crisp lettuce leaves on it, and pile the grape fruit pulp in the center. Keep on ice until ready to serve, then make a French dressing at table. Sprinkle two tablespoonfuls each of CAULD7LOWER SALAD Boil cauliflower in salted water until tender, then pull apart into flowerets; marinate with three tablespoonfuls each of vinegar and of olive oil, half a teaspoonful of salt, and half a saltspoonful of pepper. SALADS 19 When ready to serve, drain and arrange on a dish; tuck between the flowerets boiled beets cut into slices; place lettuce heart in top and wreathe base with stiff mayonnaise. COLD SLAW WITH SOUR CREAM Chop one quarter of a head of cabbage. Do not salt it. Set in the ice until ready to serve, then put a portion on each plate and on the top of each portion put two table- spoonfuls of sour cream dressing made as follows: Whip a cup of thick, sour cream until stiff, add gradually one half cup of strong vinegar and one half cup of granulated sugar, alternately, and stir in one half teaspoonful of salt. Keep in a cool place until you serve. GRAPE SALAD One pound of white grapes, one head of lettuce, one pint of chopped celery, mayon- naise dressing. Skin the grapes, cut in two, and remove seeds. When ready to serve mix all together and send to table on lettuce leaves. CHICKEN SALAD Boil one large chicken; when cold cut the meat into cubes of about an inch. (Some people prefer to use only the white meat, but both kinds are good.) To the chicken add one half the amount of celery, cut into cubes, mix, pour over it a good mayonnaise, and serve very cold. EGG SALAD Peel and cut in two lengthwise six hard- boiled eggs, put on a lettuce leaf, add two chopped olives and a little parsley, and cover with French dressing. PINEAPPLE SALAD Put two thick slices of canned or fresh pineapple on each plate, add a little of the juice to a French dressing made by the recipe given below, omitting the onions. The pine- apple and lettuce should be thoroughly chilled, and just before serving enough of the dressing to moisten it well should be poured over each portion. POTATO SALAD Boil potatoes until they are waxy, not mealy, cut into thick slices or into cubes, and add a tablespoonful of finely chopped onion to each pint of potatoes. Make triple the quantity of French dressing given in the recipe, pour half of it over the salad, several hours before it is served, and pour the other half over it just before it goes to the table. It should be veiy cold. TOMATO ASPIC Boil two carrots in a granite pan with one quart of tomato juice, one sliced onion, and one red pepper. When carrot is cooked tender strain all. Put into the strained juice one half box of gelatin which has been dissolved in a cup of hot water, and allow it to stand until it shows signs of setting, then pour one spoonful into each cup mold, add a slice of carrot cut out with fancy cutter, then more liquid, then slices of olive, and more liquid, adding nut meats before the mold is full, if these are liked, or other vege- tables. Set on the ice to harden. Water- cress is pretty around this. TOMATO JELLY WITH CELERY MAYONNAISE Put a can of rich tomatoes through a sieve, then cook liquid with a stalk of celery, a small piece of onion, a bay leaf, a whole small pepper, and a few cloves, cooking until the tomato juice is slightly flavored by all these ingredients. Then strain through a fine cloth or sieve and add one tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar for every quart, and a box of gelatine which has previously been soaked some hours in about half a cup of water. Strain and set in individual molds. To make a hollow cup shaped form, put a little mold inside a large one and pour the liquid in between and let the molds set in ice until the jelly has hardened. When set, pour hot water into the inner mold and let stand until the mold loosens from the jelly. Fill the hollow mold of tomato jelly with celery mayonnaise and pour a little more of the liquid tomato on the top. Let this harden and then add a tablespoonful more of the tomato to each form, so that the 20 WHOLESOME COOKING mayonnaise and oil will not soak through the jelly. Keep molds on ice until time to serve. When ready to serve set molds in warm water, but remove quickly, so that the jelly will not melt much. Turn out on lettuce leaves. SALAD DRESSINGS Cooked Salad Dressing There are many persons who dislike the taste of oil, and for them there are cooked dressings. One which will keep a long time is made as follows: Beat together three eggs. Add a half cupful each of warm water and vinegar and stir over the fire in a double boiler until as thick as custard. Do not cook too fast or the mixture will curdle. Take off, add three tablespoonfuls of butter, stir until blended; add a half teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of cayenne, and set aside. Keep cold, and when wanted add an equal quantity of stiffly whipped cream. Mayonnaise For a recipe for Mayonnaise, see "Fish Sauces," page 9. French Dressing To every three tablespoonfuls of olive oil put one of vinegar, a teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne, and one teaspoonful of onion juice, or a small onion minced very fine. EGGS AND CHEESE General Directions Although eggs are generally served as a breakfast or luncheon dish, a sweet omelet often takes the place of puddings or pastry at dinner, and a combination of eggs and cheese is also often used as a dinner dish. To ascertain the freshness of eggs drop them into a saucepan of cold water; those perfectly fresh will at once sink to the bottom of the saucepan, but those not so fresh will show a tendency to rise or stand on one end. WELSH RAREBIT When one tablespoonful of butter is nearly melted in a chafing dish, add a pound and a half of cheese cut into small pieces; then add a teaspoonful of dry mustard and a pinch of cayenne pepper, mixed in a tablespoonful of beer, or cream. Stir constantly, adding gradually half a pint of beer, or, if you prefer it, cream. Serve piping hot on toast. CHEESE FONDU One cup of rolled crackers, one cup of milk, three quarters of a cup of grated or finely sliced cheese, two eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately, one teaspoonful of salt, and one saltspoonful of pepper; stir all together, bake about twenty minutes in a very quick oven. Serve immediately. CURRIED EGGS Chop one onion and slice thin one tart apple. Melt one tablespoonful and a half of butter in a saucepan, add apple and onion, and cook quickly until a golden brown. Stir in one scant teaspoonful of curry powder, one third of a teaspoonful of salt, and one tablespoonful of flour. When browned add gradually one cupful and a quarter of milk and continue to stir until thick and smooth. Quarter lengthwise five or six hard-boiled eggs, lay in the sauce, draw to one side, and keep very hot for ten minutes. Serve in a border of boiled rice. CREAMED EGGS Four eggs, one third cupful of milk, one half teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of butter, and one tablespoonful of finely minced green peppers. Beat the eggs and salt until well mixed; in a smooth pan melt the butter, add milk, and when that bubbles pour in the eggs ; keep shaking pan and stir so eggs will not settle; also turn with a knife, but do not break up EGGS AND CHEESE, PASTRY 21 too small. As soon as done turn on to rounds of soft toast with crust removed or into hot dish. Sprinkle pepper over and serve at once. SCRAMBLED EGGS Excellent for chafing dish Four eggs, half a teaspoonful of salt, one tablespoonf ul of butter and six tablespoonf uls of milk. A clean, smooth saucepan or small spider that is used only for eggs should be used. Melt and heat, but do not brown the butter. Beat the eggs without separating. When well blended add the milk and salt, pour into the pan, then shake and turn so that all parts are cooked without perceptible coloring. They should be jelly like. Turn on nicely toasted bread, with crust trimmed, or serve in a hot dish, garnished with a little parsley or finely cut shives, if the onion flavor is liked. FRENCH OMELET Break four eggs into a dish, give them eight strokes with a silver fork (no more) to mix whites and yolks, add salt and pepper to taste. Have a small frying pan on the fire, and when it is hot put in a pieoe of butter the size of half an egg. When the butter is sizzling hot, but not brown, pour in the eggs. As they cook lift them with a knife around the edges, so that the egg on top can slip down to the bottom of the pan. When the top is of the consistency of thick boiled custard double the omelet over in half and serve on a very hot dish. Endless variations may be made with this as a foundation; a little grated cheese may be put in the omelet before it is doubled over, or, if a sweet omelet is desired, a little jam may be used in the same way. Mushrooms that have been previously heated through are very good with the eggs, and so are asparagus tips, or oysters. POACHED EGGS Have the water boiling hard, break the eggs one at a time into a saucer and slide them from the saucer into the water, which should be deep enough to cover them. When they are done, remove them in a skimmer and let them drain for a few seconds before putting them on squares of buttered toast to serve. If a tablespoonf ul of vinegar is added to the water they are cooked in it will keep the eggs white. FRIED EGGS Eggs should be fried in butter or bacon fat, never in lard. The grease should be hot before the eggs are put into it, and they should be watched carefully to prevent sticking to the pan. Serve with bacon or ham, or on squares of toast. BOILED EGGS Boiled eggs take three and a half minutes for medium soft, and four and a half to five minutes for well done. Hard-boiled eggs should be boiled fifteen minutes and then dropped into cold water to prevent discol- oration. PASTRY General Directions The best kind of a pastry board is of marble, as it keeps the paste at a low temperature. Often the marble top of an old table or washstand may be utilized. Failing marble, a pastry board should be of hard wood about three feet by two feet. French pastry cooks prefer a rolling pin without handles, eighteen inches long and from two and a half to three inches in diameter. A GOOD PLAIN PASTE Two and a half cupfuls of flour, one half cupful of butter, one half cupful of lard, one half cupful of ice water, half a teaspoonful of salt. Mix as quickly as possible. Half a tea- spoonful of baking powder should be sifted in with the flour. This paste is also improved by being made the day before it is needed. 22 WHOLESOME COOKING PUFF PASTE To every pound of good pastry flour allow a half saltspoonful of salt and one and a quarter pounds of lard and butter mixed, in the proportion of three quarters of a pound of butter to half a pound of lard. Divide the shortening into quarters, and with your hands rub one quarter into the sifted flour until very thoroughly mixed, moisten with ice water, putting as little water as is possible to hold the flour and shortening together; roll out thin, and dab small pieces of shorten- ing over the paste, fold up, and roll out again until all the butter and lard are in. (Some cooks pound the paste with the roller every time they roll it up, but this is not necessary for good puff paste.) Add as little flour to it, while rolling out, as you can manage with, put on a plate, sift flour over the top, and put it on ice until the next day. Paste is always better if not used the same day it is made. When rolling out for use, get it as thin as possible. MINCEMEAT One fresh beef tongue, boiled and chopped fine, three quarters of a pound of suet chopped fine, two pounds of seeded raisins, two pounds of washed currants, one pound of mixed peel, chopped fine, one pound chopped figs, two pounds best brown sugar, cinnamon and nut- meg to taste, a pinch of mace and one of salt, one pound of shelled and blanched almonds, chopped fine, the juice of three lemons and three oranges, the grated rind of one lemon and one orange, four pounds of chopped apples. Mix well, put in a covered stone crock, and make it quite moist with brandy or whisky. This will keep all winter if moistened occasion- ally with liquor. CREAM PIE Three quarters of a pint of cream, sweet- ened and flavored to taste. Beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth, add these to the cream, pour into a deep pie dish lined with puff paste, put a rim of paste around it and bake until firm. It will look like a custard pie, but will be white and very rich. It is best cold. BANBURIES One cupful of finely chopped raisins, one square soda cracker rolled fine, one egg, the juice of one lemon, one cupful of white sugar. Mix well and bake in puff paste, shaped as you would for turnovers. LEMON CHEESE CAKES One quarter of a pound of butter, one pound of white sugar, the yolks of six eggs well beaten, the juice and grated rind of three lemons. Cook over steam, or in a double boiler, until the thickness of honey. Keep in a covered jar in a cool place until wanted; it will be good for a couple of weeks. Bake in patty pans lined with puff paste, allowing a heaping teaspoonful of the mixture to small patty pans. Eat cold. COCOANUT PIE Three eggs, one half cupful of sugar, one cupful of grated or prepared cocoanut, one pint of milk, one tablespoonful of cornstarch, blended with a little of the cold milk. Cook a minute or two before putting it into a pie plate lined with the pastry, then cook in oven long enough to do pastry. A CHEAP LEMON PIE One egg, one tablespoonful of cornstarch dissolved in a little cold water ; add one cupful of hot water and a small piece of butter the size of half an egg. Boil it all for a minute or two, and when cold add one cupful of sugar and the juice and grated rind of one lemon. Cook in paste made after the recipe for " Good Plain Paste." CUSTARD PIE One pint of new milk, three eggs well beaten, one small teacupful of sugar. Beat all to- gether, flavor to taste with nutmeg, line pie plate with crust, and bake. Better cold. APPLE PIE Line pie plate with crust, fill with apples sliced very thin, strew over them three quar- ters of a cupful of sugar, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, or half a grated nutmeg, a little water to moisten, and scatter over top small pieces of butter. Bake twenty-five minutes. PASTRY, PUDDINGS 23 PUMPKIN PIE Peel pumpkin, cut into small pieces and jteam until soft, then rub through a colander. To four heaping tablespoonfuls of this add a gill of cream, a gill of rich milk, half a cup of sugar, three well beaten eggs, one table- spoonful and a half of butter; season with a pinch of salt, half a tablespoonful of cinna- mon, a quarter of a tablespoonful of ginger, and half a grated nutmeg. The ginger may be omitted if desired. This will make one large or two small pies. To be eaten cold with rich cream. RHUBARB PIE Two cups of chopped rhubarb (about inch- long pieces) and one cup of sugar; mix together and allow to stand while you beat the yolks of two eggs with one heaping table- spoonful of flour. Lay some bits of butter over the fruit, add a pinch of salt, then pour the egg mixture over and bake with or with- out top crust for half an hour. PUDDINGS General Directions In mixing puddings the dry ingredients should be mixed together first, the salt and baking powder sifted with the flour, and then the milk and eggs added. When the yolks and whites are beaten separately the yolks are put in first; the whites go in last of all, and should be stirred in very lightly. better if made the day before it is needed. Lemons may be substituted for the oranges if a lemon pudding is desired. SUET PASTE FOR BOILED OR STEAMED PUDDINGS To two cups of flour and two teaspoonfuls of baking powder take one and a half cupfuls of chopped and shredded suet; add enough cold water to make into a paste, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Roll to the thickness desired. Very economical and nourishing, good for meat pies as well as puddings. BAKED BATTER PUDDING Four heaping tablespoonfuls of flour mixed with a teaspoonful of baking powder, three well beaten eggs, a piece of butter the size of an egg melted, and two cupfuls of rich milk. Mix well and bake in a quick oven for half an hour. Must be served as soon as removed from oven, or it will fall. Serve hard sauce with it. ORANGE PUDDING The juice and grated rind of two oranges, two and a half cupfuls of bread crumbs, one cupful of sugar, one and a half cupfuls of milk, three eggs well beaten (the pulp of two oranges may be used as well as the juice). Bake in a buttered pudding dish until well set. When it is cold turn it out into a glass dish and cover with whipped cream. It is SNOW PUDDING Dissolve half a package of gelatine in half a pint of boiling water, then add half a pint of cold water, beat the whites of three eggs very light, add a cupful of white sugar, then the gelatine water, and a teaspoonful of lemon juice, or extract of lemon. Beat it with a Dover egg beater in a cool place until it is stiff, then pour into a mold to set, previously inserting the mold in cold water so that the inside will not stick to the pudding. When set, turn out and serve with a custard made of the yolks of the eggs. CUSTARD Heat a pint of rich morning's milk, add the beaten yolks of three eggs, half a cupful of sugar, and a saltspoonful of salt. _ Stir stead- ily in a double boiler until it thickens suffi- ciently, then put it aside to cool. ROLY-POLY PUDDING Make a paste, roll out half an inch thick, spread thickly with any kind of jam that is not too juicy, and roll up in the shape of a 24 WHOLESOME COOKING jelly roll. Have ready a pudding cloth wrung out of boiling water and thickly floured ; roll the pudding in it, tie it at each end, place on a plate in a steamer, and steam for two hours. APPLE DUMPLINGS Make a suet paste, or an ordinary plain paste if preferred, roll until it is a quarter of an inch thick and cut into squares. Pare and core some apples, place one in the center of each square, fill the apple with sugar, butter, and cinnamon, bring the corners of the paste together to cover the apple, put in a buttered dish in the steamer, and cook half an hour, or bake in the oven for the same length of time. To be eaten with cream and sugar, or hard sauce. CHOCOLATE PUDDING Make a cornstarch pudding with one quart of milk, three tablespoonfuls of cornstarch, and three tablespoonfuls of sugar. When done remove about half and flavor to taste; add to what you have left in the kettle an egg, beaten light, and two ounces of vanilla chocolate. Put in a mold, alternating the dark and light. Serve with whipped cream. SNOWBALL PUDDING Cream half a cupful of butter; add one cupful of sugar and the whites of four eggs. Mix two teaspoonf uls of baking powder with two cupfuls of flour. Add this to the above mixture in portions alternately with half a cupful of sweet milk. Steam twenty minutes. Roll in powdered sugar and serve with sweetened cream. TAPIOCA PUDDING Soak one cupful of tapioca in two cupfuls of hot water for three hours. Beat yolks of three eggs with three tablespoonfuls of sugar, grated rind of half a lemon, one tablespoonful of melted butter, and a saltspoonful of salt. Boil one quart of milk, stir all together, then add the beaten whites of three eggs. Bake thirty minutes. When the pudding begins to bake, stir it a little from the bottom and it will not separate. STALE SPONGE CAKE PUDDING Slice stale sponge cake, put a layer in the bottom of a bowl and soak with raspberry juice, then put spoonfuls of the canned rasp- berries over the cake. Have ready some cornstarch made quite thin, pour over the cakes, then put another layer of cake and fruit, and fill up with the hot cornstarch. When cold turn out and serve with cream. CORNSTARCH PUDDING Put one and a half pints of milk on to boil in a rice boiler. Mix two tablespoonfuls of cornstarch in half a pint of cold milk and two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and add this to the boding milk, stirring rapidly until thick and smooth. Take from the fire and add a small teaspoonful of vanilla. Pour into a dish and spread raspberry or currant jelly on top; over this put the whites of two eggs, beaten to a froth with a little sugar. Put in the oven to brown. Serve cold. BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING Cut slices of bread a medium thickness, spread with butter, and lay in a pudding dish. Over this put a layer of currants, sugar, and nutmeg; then add more bread and butter and another layer of currants, etc., and repeat until the dish is full. Pour over this two eggs, well beaten, one quart of milk, and sugar to taste. Bake twenty minutes. RICE PUDDING One cupful of soft boiled rice, one pint of milk, three eggs, one lemon, one pint of sugar, butter the size of an egg. Separate the eggs and mix the yolks with the rice and other ingredients and a little grated rind of the lemon. Then beat the whites of the eggs and add the sugar and juice of the lemon; put on the top and bake. Bake the pudding just enough to harden the ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING Four pounds of raisins, four pounds of currants, two pounds and a half of suet, two pounds and a half of bread crumbs, a quarter of a pound of flour; two dozen and a half eggs, a pound and a quarter of candied PUDDINGS 25 peel sliced very thin, half a pint of brandy, a tablespoonf ul of mixed spices, two nutmegs, grated, and one pound of sugar. Mix all dry ingredients together first. Boil for twelve hours at least. It may be half boiled one day and finished the next. It is better if made some weeks before using. BOILED APPLE PUFFETS Three eggs, one pint of milk, a little salt, sufficient flour to thicken as waffle batter, one and a half teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Fill teacups alternately with layers of batter and then of apples, chopped fine. Steam one hour. Serve hot with flavored cream and sugar. KISS PUDDING Boil one quart of milk in a custard kettle; stir into it four heaping tablespoonfuls of sugar and four heaping tablespoonfuls of cornstarch, dissolved in a little cold milk or water and added to the well beaten and strained yolks of four eggs. Have the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth with one teacupful of pulverized sugar and one tea- spoonful essence of vanilla; spread on top of pudding, put in a quick oven, and brown; take from the oven, sprinkle with grated cocoanut, and set away to cool. Use cream or not, as you choose. MARMALADE PUDDING One pot of marmalade, one cupful of suet, minced fine; a good cupful of grated bread or sponge cake, one wineglass full of sherry or brandy, some candied lemon or citron peel, minced very fine; a grated nutmeg, four eggs and one tablespoonful of sugar. Pour the marmalade into a bowl, then add the bread crumbs and the other ingredients, the eggs last. Boil in a well buttered mold two hours and a half. Serve with clear brandy sauce. CABINET PUDDING Stone two dozen large table raisins, butter a bowl and stick them all over the inside of it. Then fill up the mold with a thick custard made of milk, three or four eggs, and a cupful of finely grated bread, two table- spoonfuls of sugar, a few chopped almonds, and any flavoring desired. Boil or steam one and a half hours. Turn out and serve. FIG PUDDING Half a pound of figs, well chopped; two cupfuls of fine, dry bread crumbs, three eggs, half a cupful of sugar, half a cupful of chopped beef suet, a pinch of salt, one tea- spoonful baking powder dissolved in hot water and stirred into one cupful of milk. Soak the crumbs in the milk, add eggs and sugar, well beaten, then add salt and suet, and, last of all, the figs. Steam three hours in a well buttered mold. APPLE TAPIOCA PUDDING Half a pint even full of tapioca, washed and soaked over night in one and a half pints of cold water. In the morning cook until it looks clear (in the same water), which will take half an hour. Then add half a cupful of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of extract of lemon, one and a half pints of peeled and sliced apples; turn into buttered pudding dish and bake one and a quarter hours. Let it stand in cool room half an hour, in order that the tapioca may stiffen a little in losing some of its heat. Serve with sugar and whipped cream. PUDDING SAUCES Lemon Sauce Take two cupfuls of sugar and one table- spoonful of butter, cream together, and add one and a half cupfuls of boiling water and the rind and juice of one lemon. Hard Sauce Beat to a cream one half cupful of butter, adding gradually one cupful of white sugar. Stir until very smooth. Put in a little mound in a glass dish, and grate nutmeg over the top. Foam Sauce Take one cupful of white sugar and one third cupful of butter, cream together, add one beaten egg, and stir all together until light, then add a teaspoonful of vanilla. Five min- utes before sauce is needed pour on boiling 26 WHOLESOME COOKING water, stirring constantly. Add enough water to make a pint of sauce. Queen Sauce Heat two cupfuls of rich milk to a scalding point, add four tablespoonf uls of sugar (white) : wet one tablespoonf ul of cornstarch with cold milk and stir it in. When sauce thickens, beat in whites of two eggs beaten stiff, a few drops of extract of bitter almonds and half a grated nutmeg. Take sauce from the fire, put it in a jug, and stand the jug in boiling water to keep warm, but not to cook, until it is wanted. Congress Sauce Beat the white and yolk of one egg sepa- rately, then together, and add one cup of sugar and butter the size of a walnut. Put in a bowl over a boiling teakettle on the back of a range for twenty minutes without stirring; add one wineglassful of sherry, and serve. BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES General Directions In making breakfast cakes the rule given for puddings should be followed, that is, the dry ingredients should be mixed together first and the liquids added. If sugar is used it should be put in after the salt, baking powder, and flour have been sifted together. A hot oven is required for all breakfast cakes of the popover, muffin, or gem variety; scones cook more slowly. For waffles or pancakes the waffle iron and griddle should be very hot. BREAD Boil three or four small potatoes. Have a quart of sifted flour ready in a bowl; make a well in the center. When the potatoes are cooked soft, pour about half a teacupful of the boiling potato water into the flour. Let it stand until you mash the potatoes; add to them two cups of milk and two cups of water, luke warm; put in a large teaspoon- ful of lard or butter and a teaspoonful of salt, and, if desired, a tablespoonful of sugar. Stir well into the flour. Soak a cake of yeast in luke-warm water until it dissolves, and add that to the mixture the last thing. If you set it at eight in the evening it will be ready to be made into loaves in the morning. After it is made into loaves it should rise twenty minutes before being put in the oven. Bread should rise in a warm (not hot) place. If too cold, your bread will be heavy; if too hot, it will be sour. It should rise to twice its original size before forming into loaves. Do not have loaves too large for the pan, or they will be a bad shape. Bake ordinary loaves of bread forty minutes in a slow oven. When you take your bread from the oven rub over with melted butter, as it makes the crust tender and imparts a nice flavor to it. Bread should be kept in a stone jar and well covered. SIMPLE GRAHAM BREAD Two cupfuls of unsifted (finely milled) graham flour, one cupful of warm milk and water, half a teaspoonful of salt, two teaspoonf uls of sugar, one cake of compressed yeast, one teaspoonful of sweet lard or butter. Soak the yeast over night in the cold water. In the morning pour off the water, add sugar, rub salt and shortening into the flour, add yeast to the liquid, beat into flour, cover, and let stand until double its bulk. Then beat again, pour into greased pan, let stand about thirty to forty minutes, then bake until straw comes out clean. MUFFINS One third of a cup of butter, one fourth of a cup of sugar, and the same of salt, one egg, two cupfuls of flour, one teaspoonful of baking powder, one cupful of milk. Beat butter, sugar, and egg until creamy. Add the milk, a little at a time, stirring in gradually the flour, which has been sifted twice with salt and baking powder. Grease BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES 27 the muffin pans; heat slightly, put in the mixture, and bake quickly. WAFFLES Mix one pint of sifted flour into a smooth Daste with one pint of milk. Beat in a tablespoonful of butter and a saltspoonful of salt, and, lastly, two eggs beaten light. Have waffle iron hot and ready greased, pour in enough batter to cover the lower side and close the upper one gently down upon it. Keep over fire for half a minute and turn over for same length of time. Remove, and place in the oven a few moments to crisp. CORN BREAD In making corn bread use shallow pans and grease them thickly, as the batter has a tendency to cling to the sides and bottom. Scald one pint of fine meal with just enough boiling water to moisten, adding one large spoonful of shortening and a scant teaspoon- ful of salt. Cover closely and set aside until warm, then add three well beaten eggs, a pint of sifted flour, one teaspoonful of baking powder, and enough milk to make a thin batter. Do not have it more than an inch deep in the pans — less is better — for much of the delicacy of corn bread is due to its thin, crusty crispness. Bake in a hot oven. GRAHAM GEMS One and a half cupfuls of graham flour, three fourths cupful of flour, one fourth cupful of sugar, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one half teaspoonful of salt. Sift all together and mix with a cupful of milk. Beat well and drop into lightly greased hot gem pans. Bake for twenty minutes. This recipe makes one dozen gems. SODA BISCUITS Two cupfuls of flour, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, butter the size of half an egg, one saltspoonful of salt, and a pint of cream or very rich milk. Flour the board sufficiently to prevent the dough sticking, roll out and cut with a round cutter into cakes an inch and a half in thickness. Let them rise for ten minutes and bake in a rather hot oven. POPOVERS To every egg take one cupful of milk, one cupful of flour, with a teaspoonful of baking powder, and one tablespoonful of melted butter. Stir all together. Heat the pop- over pans very hot in the oven, grease them well, pour in the mixture until the holes are half full, and bake for twenty minutes. BUCKWHEAT CAKES Good buckwheat cakes are a rarity. Get some unadulterated buckwheat flour. To a quart of warm water allow two cupfuls of this and half a yeast cake. Let rise over night and add in the morning, just before cooking, half a teaspoonful of soda, a teaspoonful of salt, and two teaspoonfuls of molasses or sugar. The cakes should spread very thin, be full of airholes and are of inimitable flavor when eaten fresh from the griddle, with butter and the best of sirup. TEA ROLLS One quart of flour, one tablespoonful of lard, two tablespoonfuls of butter, one tablespoonful of sugar, a little salt, one third cake of compressed yeast dissolved in half a cupful of warm water, one pint of boiling milk. All the ingredients should be stirred in with the boiling milk except the yeast, which is added when the sponge is a little cool. Knead down three or four times. Half an hour before rolls are wanted, roll out and cut with cake cutter. Fold together with piece of butter in middle; let them rise till light, then brush over with an egg and bake. CORN-MEAL PANCAKES Take two cupfuls of corn meal and a teaspoonful of salt; pour over it boiling water to make a batter, let stand to "cool, then add the yolks of three eggs, beaten, enough flour to make of the proper con- sistency, and one and a half teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Just before baking add the whites of the eggs, beaten stiff. SOUR-MILK PANCAKES One pint of sour milk, one and a half cupfuls of bread crumbs, one tablespoonful 28 WHOLESOME COOKING of melted butter, a little salt, three eggs, enough flour to give good consistency, and half a teaspoonful of soda. FRENCH PANCAKES Two eggs, two ounces of butter, two ounces sifted sugar, two ounces flour, one teaspoonful of baking powder, half a pint of new milk. Mix thoroughly and bake in buttered plates in a quick oven for twenty minutes. ENGLISH PANCAKES Three eggs, half a cupful of sugar, piece of butter the size of an egg, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, half a pound of currants, and nutmeg. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, then add the other ingredients and enough flour to make a thin batter. Fry in lard. This is a good substitute for a pudding. JOHNNY CAKE One quarter cupful of butter, one quarter cupful of sugar, one egg, one cupful of sweet milk, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one cupful of corn meal, one cupful of flour, and a saltspoonful of salt. Bake in a greased biscuit tin and when done cut in squares and send to the table hot. FANNIE CAKE One cupful of milk, three cupfuls of flour, half a cupful of sugar, three eggs, one tea- spoonful of soda, two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar. Mix well and bake in a deep biscuit pan. Serve warm for tea. MUFFINS Warm a piece of butter the size of a hen's egg in one pint of milk. When it is melted, set off to cool, then stir in four beaten eggs, three tablespoonfuls strong homemade yeast and enough flour to make a thick batter. Cover and set it to rise. If wanted for breakfast, set the last thing at night; if for tea, set just before dinner. When about to bake them, stir in a little bit of soda, dissolved. Bake on a hot griddle in muffin rings. Slip a knife under them to turn. CAKES General Directions In cakemaking the following simple rules should be observed. The butter should first be stirred to a cream and then the sugar added. When these ingredients are well mixed add milk, if there is any in the recipe, then a little of the flour, then half of the well beaten eggs, then flour and eggs alternately until all are in. The baking powder should be sifted with the flour. If the eggs are beaten separately, put in the yolks alternately with the flour and add beaten whites last; stir them in very lightly. The flavoring should be added just before baking. See that the tins are well greased, and, if no time allowance is given for baking, try the cake by inserting a clean straw in it; if the straw comes out without any batter adhering to it, the cake is baked. HICKORY-NUT CAKE Two cupfuls of sugar, half a cupful of butter, three quarters of a cupful of milk, two cupfuls of flour, whites of four eggs, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, and one cupful of nut meats. FRENCH CAKE One-half cupful of butter, one cupful of milk, two cupfuls of sugar, three cupfuls of flour, three eggs, one teaspoonful extract of vanilla or lemon, three tablespoonfuls of baking powder. CAKES 29 DELICATE CAKE One and a half cupfuls of sugar, one cupful of sweet milk, three cupfuls of flour, two large teaspoonfuls of baking powder, two tablespoonfuls of butter, whites of seven eggs, and one teaspoonful of extract of lemon. Bake in layer tins. Filling for Delicate Cake Take half a cupful of thick sour cream and whip until thick, but be careful it does not go to butter; add half a cupful of sugar and whip again, one teaspoonful of extract of vanilla, and three quarters of a cupful of almonds, blanched and chopped fine. Mix all together and spread between two thick layers of delicate cake. Frost all over with boiled icing and put blanched almonds on top. Caramel Filling Three quarters of a cupful of cream, one and a half cupfuls of brown sugar, a small Eiece of butter; mix together, boil for about alf an hour or until it gets thick; cool a little on a plate and if it seems firm, remove from the stove, stir in one teaspoonful of vanilla, and stir occasionally until cool, then use for filling and for the top of the cake. The cake for this filling should be delicate cake. SPONGE CAKE Two cupfuls of granulated sugar, ten eggs, two cupfuls of flour, one and a half teaspoon- fuls of extract of vanilla. This makes two cakes. Beat the sugar and eggs together for twenty minutes, then sift in the flour and stir very lightly. Grease the baking tins. Use half the quantity for a medium sized cake. This is a particularly good recipe. BANANA JELLY CAKE Beat the whites of two eggs and one cupful of powdered sugar together until very light, spread on each layer of French cake — the recipe of which is given above — and place over it bananas cut in thin slices, the pieces joining each other closely, using three large bananas; sprinkle each layer with lemon juice and grated peel, and stir in a little of the peel in the frosting over the top of the cake, using the rind and juice of one lemon in all. ANGEL FOOD Take flour and sift five times, then measure one cup even full, add one teaspoon a little more than even full of cream of tartar, and sift the flour and cream of tartar twice, the last time on to a plate. Of fine granulated sugar take one and a half cupfuls, measured after it has been sifted five times, last time on to a plate. Take whites of twelve eggs on a large platter and beat until very light, add the sugar to the eggs half at a time and beat thoroughly, then add the flour a little at a time, and one large teaspoonful of extract of vanilla. Bake in an angel-food tin with a cover. Line the bottom of the tin with paper. Have the grate in the bottom of the oven, also a small dish of water (this will keep the cake from burning). Have a moderate oven and bake about sixty minutes. SUNSHINE CAKE This cake is made exactly like the angel food above except that two teaspoonfuls of vanilla are used and three or four drops of extract of bitter almonds. Then, just before turning the mixture into the angel-food tin, add the yolks of six eggs that have been well beaten. Watch closely while baking and remove the cover before the cake rises to it. Bake from forty-five to sixty minutes. Both the above cakes are rather expensive, but every housekeeper likes to have a recipe for a cake that is particularly good, even if it is only used on "state occasions." WHITE CAKE One cupful of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of butter, one and a half cupfuls of flour, half a cupful of milk, whites of three eggs, two small teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one teaspoonful extract of lemon, and a few drops of extract of bitter almonds. PLUM CAKE One pound of butter, one pound of brown sugar, one pound of flour, one pound of raisins, two pounds of currants, one pound of blanched almonds, half a pound of mixed peel, two blades of mace, two nutmegs, six cloves, ground, twelve eggs, and a glassful 30 WHOLESOME COOKING of brandy. Bake four hours. Put greased paper in the pans. NUT CAKE One cupful of butler, two and a half cupfuls of sugar, one cupful of milk, four cupfuls of flour, one teaspoonful of lemon extract, three teaspoonfuls of baking powder, six eggs. When baked, put frosting and walnut meats on top. This makes two large cakes. VANITY CAKE Two eggs, one cupful of sugar, four tea- spoonfuls of milk, one tablespoonful of butter, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one and a half cupfuls of flour. Bake in a quick oven. Filling for Vanity Cake Half a cupful of sugar, two eggs, two grated apples, and juice and grated rind of one lemon; stir all together; let boil for five minutes, stirring all the time. Spread on the cake while warm. JELLY ROLL Line the bottom of a very shallow pan with buttered paper, and grease the sides of the pan also. Break three eggs in a bowl and beat until very, very light, adding gradually one cupful of sifted powdered sugar. Still beating hard, add alternately one quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls of cold water, one cupful of sifted pastry flour mixed with one scant teaspoonful of baking powder, and, last of all, one tablespoonful of melted butter. Spread this mixture evenly over the papered pan and bake about twelve minutes in a moderate oven. Immediately remove the cake from the pan, reversing it on a board. Carefully peel off the paper, moistening it with water if it sticks. Cover quickly with jelly or jam, which has been warmed just enough to admit of spreading. Roll, and pin a band of paper round it until the cake is oold, then dust the top with pow- dered sugar. Spreading and rolling must be done quickly, as the cake will eraefc if rolled after cooling. CHOCOLATE WALNUT CAKE Six eggs, one cupful of sugar, three quarters of a cupful of flour, three quarters of a cup- ful of chocolate, one and one half teaspoon- fuls of baking powder, and sufficient vanilla to flavor. Bake in a large milk pan and split in two when cool. Fill with this mixture: Boil together one cupful of milk and one cupful of chopped nuts, then add the beaten yolks of two eggs, sugar to taste, and a little brandy or vanilla. Use two whites for chocolate icing. ORANGE LAYER CAKE Cream together two thirds of a cupful of butter and two cupfuls of sugar, and add the beaten yolks of three eggs. Grate the rind and scoop out pulp and juice from two oranges, adding sufficient water to make one cupful. Add this to the butter and eggs, alternating with three cupfuls and a half of sifted flour. Lastly, add the stiffly whipped whites of the eggs, one third of a teaspoonful of salt, and two teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Bake in three layers. For a filling beat one egg until very light and thick. Add the grated rind and half the strained juice of an orange, with half a saltspoonful of salt and sufficient powdered sugar to make very thick. DAISY CAKES Cream one quarter of a pound of butter with six ounces of sifted powdered sugar; add gradually one well beaten egg, the grated rind of an orange, one half of a cupful of cold water, and one cupful of pastry flour sifted twice, with one scant teaspoonful of baking powder and half a saltspoonful of salt. Beat steadily for ten minutes, then turn into little fluted patty pans well buttered, and bake in a moderate oven until nicely colored. When cold ice with fondant flavored with orange extract, and on the center of each make a daisy with strips of blanched almonds, the center filled with finely chopped candied orange peel. GINGERBREAD One cupful of molasses, one half cupful of brown sugar, one half cupful of butter warmed in one pint of milk, four egga, one CAKES 31 and a half tablcspoonfuls of ground ginger, one tablespoonful each of ground cinnamon and nutmeg, one cupful of raisins, one tea- spoonful extract of lemon, and enough flour to make a stiff batter. Bake in a deep tin very slowly. Put a teaspoonful of baking powder in the flour before it is sifted. JUMBLES One cupful of butter, two cupfuls of sugar, one cupful of cold water, one teaspoonful of baking powder, and enough flour to roll out. Cut into rounds, as thin as you can roll them, and bake in a quick oven. CRULLERS One pound of butter, one and a half pounds of sugar, three pounds of flour with three teaspoonfuls of baking powder, twelve eggs, one grated nutmeg. Roll very thin and fry in deep lard. This is a very rich and deli- cious recipe. BEST COOKIES Two and a half cupfuls of butter, three cupfuls of white sugar, creamed with the butter, five cupfuls of flour, three teaspoon- fuls of baking powder, one cupful of milk, and enough flour to enable you to roll the cakes very thin on the board. Cut into rounds, sprinkle sugar on the top, and bake in a quick oven. DOUGHNUTS Two eggs, one cupful of sugar, one and a quarter cupfuls of sweet milk, two teaspoon- fuls of baking powder, one half teaspoonful of salt, enough flour to hold them together. Fry when they are very soft in deep lard, boiling hot. Soups *AGE Bean, dried 3 Celery and onion 5 Chicken 4 Clam 5 Clam, or mushroom ... 5 Clear, or consomme ... 3 Consomme, or clear ... 3 Consornm6, rich 3 Corn, canned 4 Croutons for soup .... 5 Duchess 5 Mushroom or clam .... 5 Onion 5 Onion and celery 5 Oyster 4 Pea, split 5 Potato 4 Rice and tomato 5 Tomato, cream 4 Turkey, or chicken .... 4 Vegetable, French 4 White soup stock 5 Fish Baked fish, with dressing 6 Clams, scalloped 9 INDEX PAGE Codfish a la cr£me .... 7 Crabs, creamed 8 Dressing for baked fish . 6 Finnan haddie 8 Fried fish 7 Lobster, cold boiled ... 9 Mackerel, creamed salt 7 Oyster patties S Oysters, creamed 8 Oysters, scalloped 8 Pigs in blanket 8 Salmon, creamed 8 Shad roe, broiled 7 Smelts, fried 8 Trout, boiled 6 White fish, boiled 7 White fish, planked ... 7 Fish Sauces Drawn butter with eggs 9 Maitre d'hetel butter. . 9 Mayonnaise 9 Tartar sauce 9 Tomato sauce 9 Meats Beef, roast 9 PAGE Beef heart, stewed. ... 12 Beef or veal loaf 11 Beefsteak 10 Beefsteak pudding . ... 12 Calf 's brains, creamed . 12 Chicken, roast 10 Drippings, to clarif y .. . 13 Fillet of veal, roast. ... 10 Goose, stuffed roast ... 11 Heart, beef, stewed. ... 12 Lamb or mutton, roast . 10 Liver a la Begue 13 Mutton or lamb, roast. 10 Pigeon pie 12 Pork, roast 10 Rabbit, jugged 12 Rabbit stew 11 Stew, Spanish 12 Tripe a la Caen 13 Turkey, roast 10 Veal, roast fillet of 10 Veal birds 11 Veal cutlets with tomato sauce 11 Veal or beef loaf 11 Yorkshire pudding .... 10 32 INDEX Meat Sauces page Bread sauce 14 Gravy 13 Mint sauce 14 Vegetables Beets, buttered 16 Cabbage, hot creamed . 15 Carrots in casserole ... . 15 Celery, creamed 15 Corn fritters 15 Egg plant, fried 15 Onions, breaded 14 Onions, Saratoga 15 Parsnips, fricassee of . . . 15 Potato cones 18 Potato espagnal, baked 17 Potato roses 18 Potatoes, baked 16 Potatoes, creamed 17 Potatoes, curried 17 Potatoes, hashed brown 18 Potatoes, mashed 16 Potatoes, O'Brien 17 Potatoes, raw fried . ... 17 Potatoes, rules for boil- ing and baking 16 Potatoes, stuffed baked 16 Potatoes with cheese ... 18 Spaghetti and cheese romaine 15 Spaghetti, Italian 14 Spinach a la creme .... 16 Succotash 14 Sweet potato compote. 17 Sweet potatoes, scal- loped 17 Tomatoes, fried 15 Tomatoes, scalloped ... 16 Salads Cauliflower 18 Chicken 19 Cold slaw with sour cream 19 Egg 19 Grape 19 Grape fruit and nut .... 18 Nut and grape fruit .... 18 Pineapple 19 Potato 19 Tomato aspic 19 Tomato jelly with cel- ery mayonnaise 19 Salad Dressings page Cooked 20 French... 20 Mayonnaise 9 Eggs and Cheese Cheese f ondu 20 Eggs, boiled 21 Eggs, creamed 20 Eggs, curried 20 Eggs, fried 21 Eggs, poached 21 Eggs, scrambled 21 Omelet, French 21 Welsh rarebit 20 Pastry Apple pie 22 Banburies 22 Cheese cakes, lemon. . . 22 Cocoanut pie 22 Cream pie 22 Custard pie 22 Lemon cheese cakes ... 22 Lemon pie, a cheap . . 22 Mincemeat 22 Paste, a good plain .... 21 Paste, puff. 22 Pumpkin pie 23 Rhubarb pie 23 Puddings Apple dumplings 24 Apple puff ets, boiled . . 25 Apple tapioca 25 Baked batter 25 Bread and butter 25 Cabinet 25 Chocolate 24 Cornstarch 24 Custard, boiled 23 Fig 25 Kiss 25 Marmalade 25 Orange 23 Plum, English 24 Rice 24 Roly-poly 23 Snow 23 Snowball 24 Sponge cake, stale 24 Suet paste 23 Tapioca 24 Pudding Sauces page Congress 26 Foam 25 Hard 25 Lemon 25 Queen 26 Bread and Breakfast Cakes Bread 26 Buckwheat cakes 27 Corn bread 27 Fannie cake 28 Graham bread, simple. 26 Graham gems 27 Johnny cake 28 Muffins No. 1 26 Muffins No. 2 28 Pancakes, corn-meal ... 27 Pancakes, English 28 Pancakes, French 28 Pancakes, sour-milk ... 27 Popovers 27 Rolls, tea 27 Soda biscuits 27 Tea rolls 27 Waffles 27 Cakes Angel food 29 Banana jelly cake 29 Chocolate walnut cake . 30 Cookies, best 31 Crullers 31 Daisy cake 30 Delicate cake 29 Doughnuts 31 Filling, caramel 29 Filling for delicate cake 29 Filling for vanity cake 30 French cake 28 Gingerbread 30 Hickory-nut cake 28 Jelly roll 30 Jumbles 31 Nut cake 30 Orange layer cake 30 Plum cake 29 Sponge cake 29 Sunshine cake 29 Vanity cake 30 White cake 29 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 489 877 1