:,* O > '^0 < O > ^^# .0^ '^. o o ' ^K o ^^^ V ^ ^ • °^ c> ^^^' /\ v'~:/ ^^'\ <' -1 O * ° IT O .0 rS\ ■'i/h' > '^^ .9'' ^^ A^ 4^ THE FASHIONABLE TOUR: A GUIDE TO TRA.VELLERS VISITING THE MIDDLE AND NORTHERN STATES, It AND THE PROVINCES OF CANADA. FOURTH EDITION — ENLARGED AND IMPROVED. Sarartofia Sjirfnfls: PUBLISHED BY G. M. DAVISON ; AND Bl G. & C. & H. CARVILL, NEW-YORK. MDCCCXXX. # Mern District of JVew-York. ss. 3Se ft rBmrmfteretr, That on the twenty first day of April, in the fifty fourth year of the Independence of the United States of America, A. D. 1830, G. M. Davison, of the said district, has deposited in this of- fice the title of a book, the right whereof he claims as proprietor, in the words following, to wit: " The Fashionable Tour : a guide to Travellers visi* ing the Middle and Northern States and the Provin es of Canada. Fourth edition — enlarged and improved." In conformity to the act of the Congress of the Uni- ted States, entitled " An act for the encouragement of , learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts and Books to the authors and proprietors of such copies during the times therein mentioned ;" and also to the act entitled " An act supplementary to an act entitled ' An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Chprts and Books to the authors and proprietors of such copies during the times therein mentioned,' and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, engraving and etching historical and other prints." R. R. LANSING, Clerk of the Di^t. Court qfthe U. States for the tN'orthem Dist. of Js^etc-York. m INDEX. Page. Introduction, 17 From Savannah to Charleston. Savannah, .«» 19 Steam-boat route.. ..table of distances, id Land route.... table of distances, 20 Charleston, 21 Sullivan's Island, 22 From Charleston to J^eiv-York. Route by water.. ..table of distances, 23 From Charleston to J^Torfolk. Table of distances, 24 Santee river.. ..Georgetown.. ..Wilmington, id Nevvbern.... Washington. ...Plymouth, , , 25 Roanoke river.... Albemarle Sound, id Elizabeth City.. ..Dismal Swamp, 26 Dismal Swamp Canal... .Portsmouth, id Norfolk, 27 From J^orfolk to Washington. Table of distances, 28 From Norfolk to Baltimore. Table of distances, 28 Chesapeake Bay, id From J^orfolk to Richmond. Table of distances Williamsburgh, 29 Jamestown 30 VI ^ INDEX. Richmond, 31 Manchester, 32 From Richmond to Monticello. Monticello Grave of Jefferson, 32 Frovi Monticello to the Warm Springs. Warm Springs Natural Bridge, 34 From Richmond to Washington City. Route and table of distances, 35 Fredericksburgh.... Mount Vernon, 36 Alexandria, 37 Washington city, ,....■ 38 Georgetown, 41 Chesapeake and Ohio canal, 43 From Washington to Baltimore. Table of distances, 43 Baltimore, 44 Baltimore and Ohio Rail road, 48 Baltimore and Susquehannah Rail road, 50 From Baltimore to Philadelphia. Stage route.. ..Wilmington, 52 Steam-boat and Canal route, 53 Chesapeake and Delaware canal, 54 City of Delaware Philadelphia, 55 Internal improvements in Pennsylvania, 61 Union canal^ id Pennsylvania canal, , 63 Delaware canal, ' 65 Schuykill canal Lehigh canal, 67 Coal Mines of Pennsylvania, 68 From Philadelphia to the Schnjlkill Coal Mines. Schuylkill river.. .Manayunk Plymouth Locks, . . 72 Norristo\vn....Pottptown... Reading.. ..Hamburgh, . * 73 Schuylkill Water Gap.. .Mount Carbon, 74 :'A INDEX. Vll Route to the Lehigh Coal Mines. Directions, 77 Mauch Chunk Mauch Chunk Rail road,. 78 From Mauch Chunk to Easton. Lehigh river, 79 Lehighton, 80 Lehigh Water Gap Bethlehem, 81 Easton, 82 Morris Canal, 83 Delaware Water Gap Delaware Wind Gap,. . . . 84 From Easton to J^ew-York, via Schooly*s Mountain. Table of distances, 84 Schooly's Mountain Newark, N. J.. 85 From Philadelphia to J^ew-York. Various routes, 85 Table of distances.... State of New-Jersey, 87 Burhngton. ... Bristol. ...Bordentown... Trenton,. ... 88 Princeton, 89 New-Brunswick.. ..Perth Amboy, 90 £lizabethtown....Staten Island, id New- York, 91 Excursions from J^eio-York. Passaic Falls.. ..Schooly's Mountain....Long Branch, 1 03 Hoboken....Weehawk.... Brooklyn, 104 Manhattan Island, 105 Hurl Gate, 106 Discovery of the Hudson, 107 From J^eW'York to Albany. Table of distances 110 Remarks. ...Steam Boats, &c Ill Passage of the Hudson.... Weehawk en, 112 Palisadoes....Fort Lee....Fort Washington 113 Tappan Bay....Tarrytown, 114 Paulding's Monument, 115 1* VJII INDEX. Haverstraw Bay ....Highland*, , Il6 West Point, lis Major Andre, 122- Pollopel Island, 127 New- Windsor... .Ncwburgh, 128 Milton.... Poughkeepsie.... Hyde Park Landing,. . , 129 Delaware and Hudson Canal.. ..Catskill, 130 Pine Orchard, 131 Athens....Hud3on....Coxsackie Landing, 134 Albany, 135 Buell's Farm, 139 Shaker settlement at Niskayujja, 141 From Albany to Saratoga Spring.i. Table of distances, 144 Mansion of Gen. Van Rensselaer, id M'Adamized iload....U. States Arsenal, 145 Watcrvliet, 146 Troy, 147 Lansingburgh.,.. Waterford, 148 Junction and Cnlioes route.. ..Cohoes Falls, 149 Van Schaick's Island, 15(J Meclianickville..., Dunning Street, 151 Ballston Spa, 152 Saratoga Springs, 157 From Saratoga Springs to the Battle Ground. Saratoga Lake, 169 Bemus' Heights, 1 70 Freeman's Farm, ISl Gen. Frazer, 162 SchuylervilL', 1S5 From Schuyleriittc to Lake George. Fort Edward, 186 Sandy Hill. ...Glens' Falls, 187 Jossup's Falls....Hadley Falls, IHS Bloody Pond, 189 Caldwell. ...Lake George, 1I>0 Fort Wiliiaui Henry, 191 INDEX. IJS Passage of Lake George, 193 Ticonderoga, 196 EXCURSION TO NIAGARA FALLS* BY STAGE. From Saratoga Springs to Utica. Stages, 199 Table of distances... .Stimson's Farm, 200 Fonda's Bush.. ..Johnstown, id Cau£ihnawaga....Fort Plain, 201 Little Falls, 202 Petrifactions at Osquake creek.... Herkimer, 205 Utica, 206 Stages from Utica, distances, &c 211 From Utica to Trenton Falls. Route and description of the Falls, 210 Stage Route from Utica to Buffalo. New-Hartford, 215 Manchester.. ..Vernon....Oneida Castle, 216 Lenox.. ..Quality Hill....Chitteningo, 217 Manlius, T 218 Jamesville.... Onondaga Hollow, 219 Onondaga Hill....MarceIlus, id' Skaneateles, 220 Auburn, 221 Cayuga.. ..Seneca Falls, 22li Waterloo....Geneva, 224 Seneca Lake, 225 Canandaigua, 226 Burning Springs, 227 East Bloomfield....Lima, 230 East Avon.... Avon Spring, id Caledonia.. ..Le Roy, 2.31 Batavia, 232 Buffalo, 233 X INDEX. ERIE CANAL. Description of, 233 Canal Passage,. 236 Table of distances, 237 Canal Route from Schenectady to Rochester. Schenectady, 239 Amsterdam....Schoharie Creek, 240 Caughnawaga.. ..Anthony's Nose, 241 Canajoharie....Fort Plain, id East Canada Creek. ...Mohawk Castle, , id Little Falls....Utica....Whitesborough....Oriskany, 242 Rome, 243 Oneida Creek. . . Canistota 244 New Boston.. ..Chitteningo.... Syracuse, id Salina, 245 Oswego Canal... .Geddes, 247 Nine Mile Creek, id Canton.. ..Jordan. ...Weed's Basin, id Port Byron.. ..Montezuma, 248 Clyde.. ..Lyons....Newark, 249 Palmyra....Fullom's Basin, id Great Embankment....Pittsford, id Rochester, 250 Stage Routes from Rochester to Buffalo,. 253 From Rochester to Carthage Falls. Carthage, 254 Ontario Steam Boat, id Canal Route from Rochester to Buffalo. Description, 255 Ogden...Brockport....Holley, id Newport.. ..Oak Orchard, id Middleport. • .Lockport, 256 Pendleton... .Tonnewanta Creek, 257 Niagara River....Buffalo, id Western Lakes, 260 INDEX. XI From Buffalo to Jfiagara Falls. Stage and Steam-boat routes, 262 Black Rock....Waterloo, 263 Chippewa Battle Ground, 264 Chippewa Village, 265 Bridgewater, or Lundy's Lane, 266 Burning Spring.. ..Niagara Falls, 268 Welland Canal, 275 From J^iagara Falls to Forts George and JsTiagara. Queenston, 277 Brock's Monument, 273 Fort George....Newark, 279 Fort Niagara....Young3town, id From Foi't J^iagara to the Falls on the American side. Lewiston, 279 Ridge Road, or Alluvial way, 280 Tuscarora Village....Devil's Hole, 281 Whirlpool....Sulphur Spring... .American Fall,. .. . 282 LAKE ONTARIO. Description of, 282 Route from J^^iagara to Montreal. Directions and description, 283 Table of distances, 284 Charlotte.. ..Great Sodus Bay....Oswego, id Sacket's Harbor,. ..Cape Vincent. ...Morristown, . , 285 Ogdensburgh.... Rapids of the St. Lawrence, 286 Gallop Islands, 287 St. Regis.... Lachine....Montreal, 288 From Montreal to Q,iiebec. Steam-boats, &c 29 1 William Henry, 292 Lake St. Peter. ...Three River8....RicheUeu Rapids, 293 Sillery River. . .Wolfe's Cove...Point Levi... Quebec, 294 Plains of Abraham, 304 XU IWDEX. Martello Towers....Falls of Montmorenci, 306 Lorette....Chaudiere Falls, 309 Return to Montreal, 31 1 Route from Montreal to the White Mountains,. . , id From Montreal to Whitehall. Table of distances. ...Chambly....St. Johns, 312 Description of Lake Champlain....Isle aux Noix,. . 313 Rouse's Point....Plattsburgh, 314 Downie's Monument, 315 Port Kent, 316 Adffate's Falls... .High Bridge, 317 Burlington.. ..Split Rock....Crown Point, 318 Ticonderoga.... Mount Independence, 319 South and East Bays, id Whitehall, 320 NORTHERN CANAL. Description of, 320 Canal Route from Whitehall to Albany. Table of distances....Wood Creek, 321 Fort Anne....Burgoyne'8 Road, 322 Fort Anne to Albany, id ROUTES TO BOSTON. Remarks relating to, 322 From Saratoga Springs to Boston. Table of distances...Schuyler-Ville... Union Village, 323 Manchester... .Chester....Bellows Falls, 324 Walpole, 325 Keene....Groton.... Concord. ...Lexington, 326 Cambridge....Boston, 328 From Whitehall to Boston. Fairhaven....CaBtleton, 329 Rutland....Chester to Boston, 330 INDEX. XIU From Burlington to Boston, through Windsor, Vt. Table of distances., ..Montpeiier, 331 Gulf road,...Randolph.... Woodstock 332 Windsor.. ..Windsor to Boston, id From Burlington to Boston, by way of the White J\^oun~ tains and Concord, J^. H. Table of distances....Hanover (see note,) 333 White Mountains, 334 Conway....Fryeburgh, 341 From Conway to Concord. Centre Harbor....Red Mountain, 342 Squam Lake.. ..Concord, id From Concord to Boston. Pembroke. ...Hooksett.... Chester, 343 Londonderry.... Methuen....Andover, 344 Lowell.. ..Medford.... Boston, id From Albany to Boston. Stages... .table of distances... .New-Lebanon, 345 Pittsfield, ^ .-. . . 346 Natural Bridge. ...Northampton, 347 Mount Holyoke, 348 Southampton Lead Mine, 349 Hadley, 351 Regicide Judges Whalley and Goffe, 352 Belchertown.... Ware, 353 Brookfield... .Leicester, 354 Worcester.. ..Blackstone Canal, 355 Boston, 356 Quincy.... Railway, 363 Dorchester.. .. Brighton. ..Watertown...Charlestown, 364 Ursuline Convent, 365 Breed's Hill, battle of, 366 Bunker Hill Monument, 369 Fort Independence.... Nahant, 370 Fortfl around Boston erected during the revolution, 373 XIV INDEX. From Boston to Portland. Table of distances....Lynn.... Salem, 380 Newburyport.... Portsmouth, 381 Portland, 382 From Portland to Q,uebec. Remarks relative to the route, 383 Table of distances.. ..North Yarmouth, 384 Freeport... Brunswick, id Bowdointown....Hallowell, 385 Augusta... Sidney.. .Waterville, id Bloomfield.. ..Norridgework, 386 Remainder of the route to Quebecj id From Portland to Eastport, Table of distances, 386 Bath... .Wiscasset... Newcastle, 387 Waldoborough....Warren....Thomastown, id Camden.. ..Belfast... .Buckstown, 388 Penobscot... .Castine, id Machias....Eastport....Robbinstown, 389 From Boston to J^eio-YorJc: Remarks relating to and directions, 390 From Boston to Providence. Remarks and directions, 390 Table of distances.. ..Roxbury.... Dorchester, 391 Dedham.<..Pawtucket, id Providence, 392 From Providence to J^ewport. Bristol....Newport, 394 Return to Providence, 396 Fort Green.... Mount Hope....Kmg Phihp, 397 From Providence to J^eto-London. Remarks, 400 CentrevLlie....Stonington, 401 INDEX. JCV New-London, » 402 Steam-boat and stages from New-London, 404 From J^ew-London to J^orwich. The Thames river, 404 Mohegan....Trading Cove....Norwich, 405 Fro7n J^onoich to Hartford. Table of distances.. ..East Hartford. ... Hartford,. .. 407 Steam-boats and stages from Hartford, 410 From Hartford to J^ew-Haven. Table of distances....Wethersfield, . , . ; 411 Rocky Hill....Middletovvn, 412 Natural Ice Houses, 413 Haddam....Saybrook, (note,) id New-Haven, 415 West and East Rocks.. ..Farmington Canal, 418 From J^eio-Haven to J^ew- York. Steam Boats, Stages, and sketch of the route,. . . . 419 From J^ew -Haven to Litchfield. Beacon Mountain, 420 Watertown....Litchfield, 421 Mount Tom....Great Pond.... Chalybeate Spring,., id Mount Prospect, id From Litchfield to Albany, Stages and intervening places, 422 From Litchfield to Hartford. Harwinton.... Burlington.... Farmington, 422 Route up the Valley of the Connecticut River. Windsor.... Enfield Canal, 423 Suffield.... West Springfield, 424 Springfield, 425 2 Xvi INDEX. South Hadley Falls, 42G Northampton....Hadley....Hatfield, 427 Muddy Brook, *. id Deerfield, 429 Greenfield, 430 Turner's Falls, 431 Vernon.... Guilford....Brattleboro'....Westminster, . . 432 Walpole.. ..Bellows Falls.... Charlestown, N. H.... 433 Springfield.. ..Weathersfield, Vt AVindsor, 434 Hartland.... Hartford, Vt.... Hanover, id INTKODUCTION. The oppressive heat of summer in the southern sec» lions of the United States, and the consequent expo- sure to illness, have long induced the wealthy part of the population to seek, at that season of the year, the more salub^ous cUmate of the north. But the recent gigantic internal improvements in the northern and mid- dle states, and the developement of new and highly interesting natural scenery, together with the increas- ed faciUties for travelling, have greatly augmented the number of tourists within a short period. The rail-roads, canals, coal mines, the Springs, the Falls, the Lakes, the fortifications of Quebec, the sublime mountain scenery in New- York and New-England, with the various attractions presented in the large commercial cities, cannot fail of insuring to a traveller a rich compensation for the toils incident to a journey. This work is designed as a pocket manual and guide to travellers visiting these places. Our limits forbid that we should indulge in elaborate descriptions or mi- nute geographical and statistical details. We have therefore confined ourselves to subjects of more imme- diate interest to the tourist ; directing him in his course, and pointing out, as he passes, objects which most de- serve his notice and regard. The Tour, it will be perceived, commences at Savan- nah, in Georgia, though a rapid glance of the country merely is taken until reaching Washington City. The travelling- from south to north being more generally by water than otherwise, a minute description of the coun- try between Savannah and Washington would be unin- teresting and unimportant to a great proportion of the readers of these pages. We therefore briefly notice some of the prominent cities and towns, and pass on to those sections embraced within what has been usually denominated the Fashionable or Northern Tour. PJLATES ACCOMPANYING THIS WORK. 1 . The village of Saratoga Springs. — The view is taken when entering the village from the south, with the Con- gress spring on the right. The first house on the right is Congress Hall ; opposite to which is Union Hall, and farther north, on the left, the U. S. Hotel. The Pavil- ion is still farther north, on the right, though not seen in the engraving. 2. The place of-Burgoyne's surrender.— li is in the vil- lage of Schuyler-Yille, twelve miles east of Saratoga Springs. 3. Hadley Falls. — These are 19 miles north of Sarato- ga Springs on the Hudson river. The plate represents the bridge extending over the rapids, and also the sur- rounding scenery. 4. Lake George. — The view is from the head of the lake, near the ruins of Fort William Henry, with the village of Caldwell on the left. 5. Trenton Falls. — The view is taken below one of the principal falls. 6. tN'iagara Falls. — The view is taken from Goat Isl- and, and exhibits the entire curve of the British or horse shoe fall, with Forsyth's hotel and other houses on the heights of the Canada shore. The drawing was made by Mr. Bennett, the author of several very elegant views of the Falls, published by Mr. H.McGarey, N. Y. 7. Q,uebec. — From an original drawing of Edward Knight, Esq. The view is taken from neaj" the fortifi- cations on the heights at Point Levi. In tlie foreground is a small chapel built by the Duke of Richmond ; on the left the river St. Lawrence, and on the right the St. Charles. On the heights at the left is the signal station and fortifications on Cape Diamond. In the centre of the heights, and immediately on the right of the forest trees in the foreground, is seen the Castle of St. Lewis, with the steeple of the Episcopal church in the rear. The next steeple on the right is the Roman catholic cathe- dral ; in front of which, near the water, is the lower town. 8. State House, Bonton, w'lih. the common in front. THE FASHIONABLE TOUR. Savannah, the principal city in the state of Georgia, is located on the south-west bank of the Savannah riv- er, about 17 miles from the bar at its mouth. The city is built on elevated ground, and exhibits a beautiful appearance from the water ; its tall spires and other public buildings, with the groves of trees planted along its streets, giving it an air of peculiar fascination. The streets are wdde and regularly laid out, and the build- ings, together with the public squares, exhibit much taste and elegance. Of the public buildings, the city contains a court house, jail, hospital, theatre, exchange, a public library, 3 banks, and 10 churches. Savannah is by far the most important commercial town in Geor- gia, and is the great mart of the cotton planters for an extensive and well settled region of country. Steam boats ply regularly between Savannah and Charleston, distance 110 miles, as follows : Miles, Miles. Tybee Sound, 12 Port Republican, 25 Beaufort, 10 South Edisto, IS B North Edisto Sound, 10 Light House, 25 Charleston Bar, 3 Charleston, 7 20 FROM SAVANNAH TO CHARLESTON. By land, the distance between the two cities is 118 miles, as follows : Miles. Miles, From Savannah to Beck's Ferry, on the Savannah r. . . . 25 Fitch's, Echan road, . 19 Coosauhatchie, 4 Pocotaligo, 6 Saltketcher Church,. 7 Thompson's Tavern, 9 Pompon P. Office,, . . 11 Jackson Borough, ... 3 Hick's Tavern, 10 Green's Tavern, 10 Ashley River, 8 Charleston, 6 On this route, the tourist crosses the Savannah river, which is navigable for steam boats to Augusta, 105 miles above Savannah, having its rise 150 miles north- west of the former place ; The Coosauhatchie river, which rises 47 miles north- west of the village of that name, and falls into the Coo- saw river, 6 miles south-east ; The Cambahee river, which rises 75 miles north-west of Saltketcher, and falls into St. Helena Sound, 18 miles south-east from that place ; The Edisto river, which rises 90 miles north-west of Jacksonboro', and falls into the Atlantic ocean 20 miles south-east; and The ,ishley river, which rises about 40 miles north- west of Charleston. Tliis route is interspersed with rice and cotton plan- tations, and several handsome country seats of the op- ulent owners of the soil. In the spring, the whole face of the country assumes a richness of verdure highly pic- turesque and romantic ; which, however, becomes dried and withered during the burning heat of a summer's sun. CHARLESTON. 21 CHARLESTON, The metropolis of South Carolina, is alike distin- guished for the opulence and hospitality of its inhabi- tants. On entering the city from the bay, an interest- ing prospect is presented. The glittering spires of its public edifices are well calculated to give animation to the scene. Some of its streets are extremely beautiful, and many of the houses are truly elegant. Orange trees, in the early part of the season, laden with fruit, and peach trees clothed with blossoms, meet the eye of the traveller, and united with the climate of the coun- try at that time, render Charleston one of the most at- tractive cities in the union. The society is refined, in- telligent, frank and afiable. The city was founded and made the seat of govern- ment of the state in 1680. It stands on a dead level with the sea, two noble rivers, the Ashley and the Cooper, enclosing it on a wide peninsula called the Neck. Most of the houses contain a piazza, extending from the ground to the top, giving to the rooms in each story a shady open walk. Except in the commercial parts of the town, the houses, which are mostly paint- ed white, are generally surrounded with gardens, trees and shrubbery, giving to them a peculiarly romantic and rich appearance. The most celebrated edifices of this city, are the Or- phan Asylum and the Circular Church. The former IS one of the best institutions of the kind in the United States. It is highly honorable to the characteristic hu- manity and benevolence of the place, and is a happy il- lustration of the tone of public feeling. 85 Sullivan's island. Sullivan's Island, which lays at the distance of 7 miles from the city, at the entrance of the harbor, is a spot consecrated as the theatre of important events during the revolution. On this island is Fort Moul- trie, rendered glorious by the unyielding desperation with which it sustained the attack of the British fleet in the war of our independence. The fleet consisted of about fifty sail ; and on the first annunciation of its ap- proach, lay within six leagues of the island. It was a time of a^vfiU and anxious suspense to the garrison in the fort, and to the inhabitants of the city. The pub- lic mind had become deeply impressed with ideas of En- gUsh valor ; and diffident of its own power, looked with painful anxiety towards the issue of the coming contest. About this period a proclamation reached the shore, under the sanction of a flag, in which the British com- mander, Sir Henry Clinton, held out the promise of pardon to all who would resign their arms and co-ope- rate in the re-establishment of loyalty. But the royal proposition met with the rejection which it deserved. The militia of the adjacent country crowded the streets of Charleston ; the citizens threw down their imple- ments of industry, and grasped their arms in defence of their native city. On the 28th of June, 1776, Fori Moultrie was attacked by about ten ships, frigates and sloops, and was defended in a manner that would have honored the heroic veterans of Greece or Rome. During this engagement, the inhabitants stood at their respective posts, prepared to meet the advancing foe. They had determined to grapple with the enemy as he landed, and surrender their Uberty only with their lives. But ao mani\illy did the garrison withstand the FROM CHARLESTON TO NORFOLK. ^ conflict, that the fleet was compelled to withdraw, leav- ing the inhabitants in the unmolested enjoyment of their rights. The influence of this expedition was most auspicious to the cause of American liberty. It strengthened the trembling hopes and dispersed the fears of the inhabi- tants. They had seen the result of this attempt, and now felt the triumphant assurance that the sacred cause in which they had enlisted would eventually suc- ceed. The communication between Charleston and New- York is rendered frequent by convenient and com- modious packets that ply from one place to the other. A journey by land, until reaching Norfolk, is tedious and uninteresting ; the public inns, except in the large towns, are generally poor, and a voyage by water is the uniform choice of the fashionable and genteel portion of the community. The distance by water from Charleston to New- York is 670 miles, and the intermediate distances are as follows : Ofi" Cape Fear, 120 Cape Look Out, 75 Cape Hatteras,. 78 Capes of Virginia, 140 Cape May,.'^... 120 MUes. Off' Barnegat Inlet,.. 70 The Bar, 45 Sandy Hook, 3 The Nan-ows, 11 New- York, 8 FROM CHARLESTON TO NORFOLK, by the coasty Is 419 miles, and the intermediate distances are as follows : b2 94 FROM CHARLESTON TO NORFOLK. Miles. By la7id. Greenwich, 4 Wapetan Church,... 15 Tvveeden Cottons, ... 17 Santee R., S. Branch, 10 N. Branch, 2 Georgetown, 14 On the Sands, 20 Varenncs, N. C 13 Smithville, 26 Brunswick, 12 Wihnington, 18 Hermitage, 6 S. Washington, 24 Rhode'Sj £4 Miles, Trenton, 11 Newbern, 20 Washington, 35 Plymouth, 35 Mouth of Roanoke R. 8 By steam boat. Wade's Point, Albe- marle Sound,.... 45 Elizabeth Ci»y, 17 By land. Pasquotank River,., 12 N. Carolina state line, 10 Portsmoutli, 20 Norfolk, 1 The Santee, passed on tliis route, is the principal riv- er in South Carolina. It is formed by a union of the Congaree and Wateree about 25 miles south east of Columbia, and falls into the ocean by two mouths about 12 miles south cast from where it is crossed. A canal, 22 miles long, connects the Santee with Cooper river, through which large quantities of produce are annually conveyed to Charleston. Georgetown the capitol of the district of that name, is located on W inyaw bay, near the mouth of the Po- dee river, and 13 miles from the ocean. It contains a population of between 2 and 3000 inhabitants, and is a place of very considerable trade. Wilmington, N. C. is the capitol of New-Hanover county. It is situate on the north east side of Cape Fear river, just below a union of hs branches, to which place the river is navigable for vessels. The town con- FROM CHARLESTON TO NORFOLK. \lJ tains a court house, jail, academy, 2 banks, 2 cliurches, and between 2 and 3000 inhabitants. It is the great- est shipping port in tlie state. Neweerx is situated on the south side of Neuse riv- er, 30 miles from Panilico Sound. It is the largest town in North Carolina, c ataining a population of nearly 4000 inhabitants. There are in this place a court house, jail, theatre, 2 banks and 3 churches. Washington is located on the north side of the Pam- lico river, and contains a population of about 1200 in- habitants. Plymouth, the capital of Washington county, is sit- uate on the south side of the Iloanoke river, and 5 miles from Albemarle Sound. The Roanoke river rises in the state of Virginia, pur- suing a crooked course to Albemarle Sound, into which it empties by several channels, 230 miles from its source. It is navigable for about 30 miles for vessels of consideraljlc burthen, and for boats, 70 miles. The banks are fertile and well settled. Albemarle Sound is in the north east part of North Carolina, on the coast. It extends from east to west 62 miles, and is from 4 to 15 miles wide. It is con- nected with Pamlico Sound by several narrow inlets, and with the Chesapeake Bay by a canal through the Dismal Swamp. A steam boat is taken at the mouth of the Roanoke across the Albemarle Sound to % FROM CHARLESTON TO NORFOLK. Elizabeth City, the capital of Pasquotank county, N. C. The town is located on the bank of the Pas- quotank river, which has its source in the Dismal Swamp. It contains a court house, jail and 4 church- es. From Elizabeth City the road to Norfolk lies on the bank of the canal, 23 miles long, cut through the Dismal Sioamp. This swamp is a tract of marshy land, generally covered with pine, juniper and cypress trees. It is 30 miles long from north to south, and 10 broad. In the centre is Drummond's Pond, 1 5 miles in circumference. The Canal, which has been completed but a short time, already proves of immense advantage to the east- ern section of North-Carolina. Formerly their coast- ing trade was through the Ockracock inlet, by the tedi- ous, hazardous and expensive sea route ; but the canal proves an easy, safe and cheap means of conveyance, and affords more extensive markets. Near the centre of its extreme points is the junction of what is called the North West Canal, which is six miles long, and con- nects North West River (which empties into Currituck Sound in North Carolina) with the main canal, open- ing an avenue to market for the vast stores of timber in that section suitable for naval purposes, besides the va- rious other products of the country. On the main ca- nal, the basin at Deep Creek is a beautiful sheet of water, half a mile long, and 15 feet above tide water. The lockage is 40 feet ; and the locks, which are stone, are of the best workmanship. Portsmouth is pleasantly located on the south west side of Elizabeth river, opposite Norfolk. It contains a NOEFOLK. 27 court-house, jail and 4 churches, and between 3 and 3000 inhabitanta. Norfolk, the commercial capital of Virginia, is situ- ated on the east side of Elizabeth river, immediately below the junction of its two main branches, and eight miles above Hampton roads. The town lies low, and is in some places marshy, though the principal streets are well paved. Among the public buildings are a the- atre, 3 banks, an academy, marine hospital, atheneum, and 6 churches. The harbor, which is capacious and safe, is defended by several forts. One is on Craney island, near the mouth of Elizabeth river. There are also fortifications at Hampton roads ; the principal of which. Fort Calhoun, is not yet completed. The J^avy Yard at Gosport, on the bank of the Eliza- beth river, nearly opposite Norfolk, is deserving the at- tention of strangers. A superb dock is now in progress at this place, similar to that forming at Charlestown, near Boston . The length of the bottom, from the inner or foremost block, to that which is nearest the gates, is to be 206 feet, besides 50 feet of spare room — sufficient to hold a small vessel if requisite. The width of the dock, at the top, is to be 86 feet. As the tide rises and falls but 3 or 4 feet, the water is to be pumped out, when necessary, by steam engines. From Norfolk to Washington City or Baltimore, the routes are usually performed by steam-boats. The in- termediate distances are as follows : 28 CHESAPEAKE BAY. FROM NORFOLK TO WASHINGTON— 195 miles.* Miles. Mouth of Elizabeth river, 9 Mouth of James river, 6 Mouth of York river, Old Point Comfort, 20 New Point Comfort,. . 10 Rappahannock river, . 15 FROM NORFOLK TO Miles. To the mouth of the Rappahannock, as in the preceding ta- ble, 60 Smith's Point 25 Outletof Potomac,.. , 10 Outlet of Patuxent river, 18 Off Outlet St. Mary's river, 42 Off Port Tobacco 38 Mouth of Potomac riv- er, 15 Mount Vernon 25 Alexandria, 9 Washington, 6 BALTIMORE— 191 miles. Miles. Cone Point, 5 Sharp's Island, 15 Three Sisters, 16 Annapolis, 10 Sandy Point, 6 Mouth of the Pataps- co river, 11 Baltimore,! 15 The Chesapeake Bay, the principal water communi- cation on the foregoing routes, stretches in a direction nearly north from the mouth of James river, or Lynha- ven Bay, to the mouth of the Susquehannah river, near the north line of Maryland. It is 180 miles long, and va- ries from 10 to 25 miles in breadth, dividing the states of Virginia and Maryland into two parts, called the eastern and western shores. It has numerous com- * The route is down the Ehzabeth river till it enters the Chesapeake Bay — thence up the bay to the mouth of of the Potomac, which is entered, the boat proceed- ing up the river, and passing Mount Vernon and Alex- andria, noticed at pa^cs 36, 37. t See page 44. FROM NORFOLK TO RICHMOND. 29 modious harbors, and afibrds a safe navigation. Among the waters which flow into it, (commencing north) are the Susquehannah, Potomac, Rappahannock, York and James Rivers. It has been estimated that the Chesapeake Bay, including its minor bays and inlets, contains an aggregate of 3600 square miles. FROM NORFOLK TO RICHMOND. The usual route is by water up the James river ; on wliich steam boats are constantly plying between the two places. We, however, give the routes by land and water, with the intermediate distances : By water — 122 miles. Miles. Mouth of Elizabeth r. 9 Day's Point, 10 Hog Island, 16 Swan's Point, 9 Chickahomany r. . . . 4 Fort Powhatan, ..... 21 Eppe's Island, 17 Chesterfield, 23 Richmond, 13 By land — 110 miles. Miles. Mouth of Ehzabeth r. 9 Cross Hampton Roads to Hampton, ... 8 Half-way House,... 11 York, 10 Williamsburgh, 12 Chiswell, 14 Cumberland, 16 Chickahomany river, 16 Richmond, 14 Williamsburgh, 50 miles from Norfolk, is situated between York and James rivers, and was formerly the metropolis of the state. Its streets are regularly laid out, and many of the buildings are handsome. Wil- liam and Mary's College, located in this place, was founded in 1691, and was liberally endowed at that time by the reigning king and queen of England. It has a library of between 3 and 4000 volumes, and a valuable philosophical apparatus. 30 JAMESTOWN. Jamestown, between 50 and 60 miles below Rich- mond, on the north side of James river, was founded in 1608, and was the first English settlement in the United States. The scite is a very beautiful one, and the settlement itself must have been but a few steps from the river. On each side there is a delightful and variegated succession of woodlands, meadows, pas- tures, and green fields : in front, appears the broad expanse of James river, with its multitude of white, gliding sails. The opposite hills are picturesque: some are entirely covered with woods ; others, partly cleared, presenting, in the proper season, patches of white, wavy com. To increase the richness of this scenery, here and there are distinguished the old and elegant mansions of the Virginia planters, Uke points of beauty in a fine picture. No vestige of Jamestovni is now to be seen, except the ruins of a church steeple, about 30 feet high, and fringed to its summit with running ivy. Near by is a burying ground with its venerable tombstones, and spotted with dark green shrubbery and melancholy flowers. It looks like a lonely, unfrequented place, and there is something deeply interesting in contem- plating these vestiges of an ag"e gone by. In this scene of silence and of sohtude, the rude fore- fathers of the hamlet have, for ages, rested. Nothing at this day remains but the land they cultivated, and the graves in which they repose ; but the places are well known, and with increasing years will grow more venerable and illustrious. The celebrated Pochahontas, (daughter of the Indian chief, Powhatan) was the tutelary guardian of this set- RICHMOND. 81 tkmcnt ; and some of her descendants we now Bving in "Virginia. Among the most distinguished, is the Hon, John Randolph. His descent is thus given in a late Virginia paper : " Pochahontas was afterwards in London in compa- ny with her husband, whose name was Rolf, an Eng- lishman by birth. She was presented to the King and Queen, by Lady Delaware and her husband. She was present at several masquerades and assemblies, all which sights gave her great gratification. Soon after- wards, having embarked on board the ship George, from London, for Virginia, she fell sick, and died at Gravesend. " Her young child, Thomas Rolf, was left at Pljrm- outh, under the care of Sir Thomas Stukely, who de- sired to keep it. Pochahontas died in 1617, aged 23. Thomas Rolf, her son, afterwards became a citizen of Virginia. He left at his death a daughter, this daugh- ter married Col. Robert Boiling, by whom she left an only son and five daughters, who were married res- pectively to Col. Richard Randolph, Col. John Fleming, Dr. William Gay, Mr. Thomas Eldridge, and Mr. James Murray. "The noble blood of Pochahontas flows in many veins ; and the orator of Roanoke boasts his descent from the daughter of Powhatan." Richmond, the capital of Virginia, is situated on the north bank of James river, directly at its lower falls, and at the head of tide water. The town rises in an aclivity from the water, and presents a beautiful and highly picturesque appearance. A part of the town, 32 MONTICELLO. on what is called Schockoe hill, overlooks the lower part ; and from the capitol, which is on the greatest eminence, a most delightful prospect is had of the river and adjacent country. Besides the capitol, which is a handsome edifice, the city contains an elegant court house, a state prison, (which cost $135,000) an alms- house, 2 markets, a museum, an academy of fine arts, a female orphan asylum, 3 banks and 8 churches. At the Virginiary armory, which is erected here, are man- ufactured between 4 and 5000 muskets and rifles an- nually. The population of the city is nearly 30,000. Manchester, directly opposite, is connected with Richmond by two substantial bridges, and is a flourish- ing place. Among the many objects of attraction in Virginia, are Monticello, the former residence of ex-president Jeffer- son, the Warm and Hot Springs, the Natural Bridge, and the Berkley Springs. From Richmond to Monticello, the distance is 80 miles, in a north-westerly direction ; the road passing Gooch- land county line, distant 20 miles ; Fluvanna county line, 33 ; Gordonsville, 12 ; Milton, on the Rivanna riv- er, 12 ; Monticello, 3. Monticello, was much resorted to during the hfe time of its sage and pliilosopher ; and since his de- cease, the consecrated spot of his interment is a place of frequent visitation. It is thus described by a late traveller : "I ascended the winding road which leads from Charlottesville to Monticello. The path leads a cir- MONTICELLO. 33 cuitous ascent of about 2 miles up the miniature moun- tain, on which stand the mansion, the farm, and the grave of Jefferson. On entering the gate which opens into the enclosure, numerous paths diverge in various directions, winding through beautiful groves to the summit of the hill. From the peak on which the house stands, a grand and nearly illuminated view opens, of the thickly wooded hills and fertile vallies, which stretch out on either side. The University, with its dome, porticoes, and colonades, looks like a fair city in the plain j Charlottesville seems to be directly beneath. No spot can be imagined as combining greater advan- tages of grandeur, healthfulness .and seclusion. The house is noble in its appearance ; two large columns support a portico, which extends from the wings, and into it the front door opens. The apartments are neat- ly furnished and embellished with statues, busts, por- traits, and natural curiosities. The grounds and out houses have been neglected ; Mr. Jefferson's attention being absorbed from such personal concerns, by the cares attendant on the superintendance of the Univer- sity, which, when in health, he visited daily since its erection commenced. " At a short distance behind the mansion, in a quiet, shaded spot, the visitor sees a square enclosure, sur- rounded by a low unmortered stone wall, which he en- ters by a neat wooden gate. This is the family burial ground, containing 10 or 15 graves, none of them marked by epitaphs, and only a few distinguished by any memorial. On one side of this simple cemetry, is the resting place of the Patriot and Philosopher. When I saw it, the vault was just arched, and in readiness for 34 NATURAL BRIDGE. the plain stone which is to cover it. May it ever con- tinue like Washington's, without any adventitious at- tractions or conspicuousness ; for, when we or our pos- terity need any other momento of our debt of honor to those names, than their simple inscription on paper, wood or stone, gorgeous tombs would be a mockery to their memories. When gratitude shall cease to con- secrate their remembrance in the hearts of our citi- zens, no cenotaph will inspire the reverence we owe to them." From MoJiticello to the Warm Springs, is 91 miles, in a westerly direction, passing through Chariottesville 2 miles, Rockfish Gap 24, Waynesboro' 2, Staunton 12, Cloverdale 28, Green Valley 10 ; from whence to the Warm Springs is 13 miles. The temperature of these springs is about 96'^, and sufficient water issues from them to turn a mill. They are used for batliing, and are esteemed valuable in rheumatic complaints. The Bath or Hot Spring is 5 miles farther. The stream is small ; but the temperature is much greater than that of the Warm Springs, being 112.'^ These springs flow into the Jackson, a source of the James river. The Natural Bridge is 150 miles west of Richmond, and by diverging to the left, without visiting Monticel- lo, may be taken in the route to the Warm Springs. This bridge is over Cedar creek, in Rockbridge county, 12 miles south west of Lexington, and is justly consid- ered one of the greatest natural curiosities in the world. T\\Q river at this plaxjo runs through a cliasra in a liill. FROM RICHMOND TO WASHINGTON. 35 The chasm is 90 feet wide at the the top, 200 feet deep, and the sides almost perpendicular. The bridge is formed by a huge rock thrown completely across this chasm at the top. The rock forming the bridge is 60 feet broad in the middle, and is covered with earth and trees. It forms a sublime spectacle when examined from the margin of the river beneath.* FROM RICHMOND TO WASHINGTON CITY, 120 miles. A stage is generally taken at Richmond for the mouth of the Potomac creek, 9 miles beyond Fredericksburgh ; from whence steam-boats pass up the Potomac to Washington. The intermediate distances are as fol- lows : ♦ A student of one of the Virginia colleg-es, a few years since, attempted the daring effort of climbing up one of the sides of this precipice. He had ascended 50 or 60 feet before he was aware of the extreme hazard of the undertaking. It was then too late to retreat, and to progress seemed certain destruction. He, however, continued ascending from one crevice to another, hold- ing on the occasional protuberances of the rock, until he reached the top. But so arduous was the labor, that his hands and limbs were severely lacerated, and such was the effect on his mind of the perils and dan- gers encountered, that he became partially deranged, and never fully recovered the possession of his men- tal faculties. c2 36 MOUNT VERNON. By Btage. Miles. From Richmond to Chickahomany riv- er, 10 Hanover Court House, 10 White Chimneys, .... 10 Mattapony river, .... 8 Bowhng Green, 6 Vileboro', 8 Miles, Fredericksburg, 14 Mouth of Potomac creek, 9 By steam-boat. Mount Vernon, 30 Alexandria, 9 Washington, 6 Fredericksburgh is situated on the south side of the Rappahannock river, 110 miles from its outlet into the Chesapeake Bay. It contains a court-house, jail, acad- emy, 2 banks, 4 churches, and about 500 dwelling-hou- ses ; and being near the head of navigation and sur- rounded by a fertile country, it enjoys an extensive and advantageous trade. The first object of immediate interest on ascending the Potomac, is Mount Vernon, on the south side of the river, 39 miles from the mouth of Potomac creek. To this sa- cred spot the mind of every American recurs with the most enthusiastic devotion. He looks upon it as conse- crated ground. Here the immortal Washington, after having conducted the American armies forth to victory and independence, retired to enjoy the rich reward of his services in the warm hearted gratitude of his coun- trymen, and in the peaceful seclusion of private life. Tliis place was, till recently, the re'sidence of Judge Washington, the nephew of the General ; but since his decease in 1829, the estate has descended to John Ad- ams Washington, a nephew of the Judge. The road to it is almost uninhabited, and difficult to trace. The ALEXANDRIA. 37 house stands on an eminence, embracing a delightful view of the Potomac, with a rich and beautiful lawn ex- tending in front to the river. The Tomb of Washington is visited as an interest- ing object of contemplation. Here slumber in peaceful silence the ashes of the great and patriotic Father of Liberty. Americans will repair to his grave and moist- en with their tears the sod that presses upon his bosom. No monument has yet been erected to his memory ; but it vnll survive, long after monuments shall have crumbled into dust. Alexandria, an incorporated city, 9 miles farther, on the west bank of the river, is a place of extensive business and of fashionable resort during the sittings of Congress. It contains a court house, 6 churches and a theological seminary. The Museum at this place, among other things, con- tains an elegant satin robe, scarlet on one side and white on the other, in which Gen. Washington was baptized ; a penknife with a pearl handle, given to him by his mother when he was in his twelfth year, and which he kept fifty-six years ; a pearl button, from the coat he wore at his first inauguration as President of the Uni- ted States in the old City Hall, New- York ; a black glove, worn by him while in mourning for his mother ; part of the last stick of sealing wax which he used ; the original of the last letter written by him, being a polite apology, in behalf of himself and Mrs. Wasliington, for declining an invitation to a ball at Alexandria ; it is penn- ed with singular neatness, accuracy and precision, and contains this expression — " Alas ! our dancing days are .38 WASHINGTON CITY. over ;" o hemdifid masonic apron, with the belt of scarlet satin and the white kid gloves worn by him the last time he shared in the social ceremonies of the " mys- tic tie." The country between this city and the capital is but thinly inhabited, and the soil poor and unproductive ; but the road is good, and a ride to Alexandria consti- tutes one of the amusements of a winter at Washington. WASHINGTON CITY Is 6 miles from Alexandria. As the seat of govern- ment of the Union, it is a place of much resort during' the session of congress in the winter ; but is mostly de- serted by strangers in the summer. It is situated on the Maryland side of the Potomac, and on a point of land formed by the junction of the Eastern Branch. The District of Columbia, in wliich the city is located, was ceded to the United States by Maryland and Virginia in 1790, and in 1800 it became the seat of the general government. This District is about 10 miles square, lying on both sides of the Potomac, and is under the immediate direction of congress. The original plan of Washington when completed, its pubhc edifices, and the elegance of its situation, will render it one of the most splendid cities in the world. Tlie Capitol stands on a high and lofty eminence, and commands a delightful prospect of the Pennsylva- nia Avenue, the President's House, Georgetown and the Potomac, the General Post-office, the Navy Yard, Grecnlears Point, the bridge on the river, and the road to Alexandria and Mount Vernon. The capitol is built of white free stone, has two wings, and is a very mag- nificent edifice. WASHINGTON CITY. 39 The Rotunda comprehends the spacious area between the two wings of the structure, and is of a circular form. It is entirely of marble, (and bo indeed is every perma- nent part of the capitol,) excepting the light doors cov- ered with green baize that lead out of it, and the frame of the sky light above. The height of the dome soars beyond the roof, and it may well be imagined, is most imposing and sublime. The floor is beautifully paved, and the sound of a single voice, uttering words in an or- dinary tone, reverberates aloft hke the faint rumbling of distant thunder. When two or more converse, there is an incessant roaring, absorbing the entire medium of 60und. Even the simple touch of a walking stick on the pavement distictly echoes along the circumference, and dies away slowly in the capacious vault ; so ex- tremely elastic is the air wdthin. There is nothing that equals it in this country ; and, of itself, it well deserves a journey to Washington. In the niches designedly left about fifteen feet from the floor, are four sculptured pieces as large as life, de- signed to commemorate the aboriginal character and some of the prominent events in the early history of the country. The scene of the first device is laid in 1773, and is designed to represent a fearful contest be- tween Daniel Boon, an early settler in one of the west- ern states, and an Indian chief. The second represents the landing of the Pilgiims at Plymouth in 1610. The third is a representation of William Penn and two In- dian chiefs in a treaty in 1682, under the memorable elm on the right bank of the Delaware, near Philadel- phia. And the fourth represents the narrow escape in 1606 of Capt. John Smith, the first successful adventur- 40 WASHINGTON CITY. er in Virginia, from the uplifted war club of King Pow- hatan. The figure of Pocahontas, in the attitude of supplicating the mercy of her father in behalf of the in- tended victim, is beautifully wrought, and the whole exhibits much elegance of design and workmanship. The Chamber of the House of Representatives is one of the richest and most splendid apartments of the kind that has ever been constructed. It is semi-circular, with dark blue columns of polished stone, and is light- ed from the roof. The J^ational Library is in the same edifice, and con- tains the paintings execcuted by Col. Trumbull. They are the Declaration of Independence, the surrender of the English armies on the plains of Saratoga and at York town, and General Washington in the act of re- signing his commission.* The President's House, which is also constructed of stone, two stories high, with four spacious buildings near it for the accommodation of the heads of depart- ment, make together an interesting spectacle for the visitant. Perhaps there is no spot in the United States that holds out more inducements to a traveller than this city during the sessions of congress. It is the theatre on * Capt. Hall, in his travels in the U. S. speaking of the Capitol, says : " By some strange perversity of taste, however, for which I never could learn to whom the public were indebted, this fine building has been cover- ed over with a coating of paint !" He should have been told that the painting was designed to hide the smoke occasioned by the conflagration which succeeded the capture of the city by the British troops in 1814. GEOnGETOVVN. 41 which the pride and power of the American nation are congregated to control the destinies of a mighty people. It is the residence of all the foreign ministers, and em- braces a large portion of the gay and fashionable world. The levees at the house of the president are fascinat- ing ; and the apartments on these occasions are open and accessible to every citizen of the republic. The Navy Yard, located on the eastern branch of the Potomac, is an object worthy of attention. An ele- gant monument is here erected to the memory of the American officers who fell in the Tripolitan war. Georgetown is on the same side of the Potomac with Washington, at the distance of 3 miles west of the capi- tol. It is very pleasantly situated, and is a place of considerable trade. The country around it is richly di- versified, and the location of the Catholic Monastery is very dehghtful. It stands on the borders of " the heights," in the north west part of the town, and over- looks the body of the town below. The enclosure em- braces about one acre. On the north side is the acad- emy conducted by the nuns, consisting of a long range of buildings three stories high. In the middle of the front or eastern side stands the chapel. On the left of the chapel is the room of the father confessor, and also the private apartment of the nuns, into which no unhallowed tread of the worldly and profane is ever ad- mitted. The Academy, or High School for Ladies, is the most interesting appendage of the convent. It contains a boarding school of upwards of one hundred pupils, and a free or charity school of a much larger number of day 42 GEORGETOWN. scholars. What strikes the visitor with most pleasure is the perfect system and order with which every thing is done. The young misses who compose the school are regularly and rigidly trained to do every thing on plan and method. The seminary is divided into four classes. The hall of the first class contains an extensive cabinet of miner- als, to wliich many rare and valuable specimens have been presented by the officers of our navy, and by cath- olics of the eastern world. It has also many rich spe- cimens of art ; the contributions of wealthy and pow- erful patrons of the church. The sword, sheath and belt of Iturbide, once a hero of South America, two of whose daughters are now in this convent, were recently presented to the cabinet by Commodore Rodgers. It also claims to have many sacred relics, such as shreds or scraps from the garments of numerous saints — frag- ments from the church and tomb of St. Peter, and of other saints — pieces of the wood of the cross, &c. of which the industry and credulity of the Catholics in the east have collected enough in the last 1400 years to build a ship of the Une. These relics, so says tradition, have been carefully preserved by a long line of popes, bishops and priests, and distributed among the church- es and their convents, as the memorials of many pre- cious and hallowed associations. The veneration with which they are regarded by catholics is well known. The same hall containing the cabinet has a good chem- ical labaratory. The number of nuns in this convent, at present, is about sixty. Among them are descendants of rich and powerful families. Their employment consists in con- FROM WASHINGTON TO BALTIMORE. 43 fessions, vigils, fasts, penances, reading and religious exercises, in teaching, in domestic concerns, and in making fine needle-work for sale. The charity school embraces about 200 day pupils. For their humanity and benevolence in collecting and teaching these chil- dren, the nuns deserve praise. In these employments they appear happy ; but the happiness of these devo- tees, if real, must be of the negative kind. The Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, was commenced on the 4th of July, 1828, and is now in a state of for- wardness. It is to extend from Georgetown, D. C. to near Pittsburgh, Penn. where it will unite with the Pennsylvania canal and the Ohio river. Its length will be 360 miles, and its lockage 4004 feet. Tliis canal, towards the construction of which the United States have subscribed 5^200,000, will pass through an interest- ing part of the state of Pennsylvania, which it will greatly benefit, and prove of immense importance to the city of Pittsburgh. FROM WASHINGTON TO BALTIMORE— 38 mUes. There are from 12 to 15 lines of stages running daily between Washington and Baltimore ; so that a passage can be taken at almost any hour of the day. The in- termediate distances are as follows : MUes. MUes, Bladensburgh, 6 Patapsco river, 9 Vansville, 8 Gwinn's Falls, 5 Patuxent r. W. Branch, 3 Baltimore, 3 do. E. Branch, 4 44 BALTIMORE. BALTIMORE.* The rapid growth and present extent and population of this city is truly remarkable, and to be ascribed no less to the spirit of enterprise which has always char- acterised its inhabitants, than to the natural advantages of its position. Its scite is on the north side, and at the head of tide water on the Patapsco river, 14 miles above its entrance into the Cliesapeake. The centena- ry of its existence was celebrated in August, 1829. On the 8th of that month, in 1729, the first act was passed for laying out the town on sixty acres of land, from which the native forests had then but partially given place to the axe and the plough. These sixty acres were purchased at forty shillings per acre, to be paid in mon- ey, or tobacco at one penny per pound. The progress of the city at first was sluggish and unpromising. Thir- ty-three years after its location, (1752,) it contained but twenty-five houses, and a small brig and sloop were the only vessels owned in the town. Even up to 1773, the merchants were compelled to send their advertise- ments to Annapolis or Philadelphia, there being no newspaper then published in Baltimore. Now, with its population rising above 70,000, it may be consider- ed the third city in the union ; whilst, for its various manufactories and pubUc buildings, ornamental to the ♦ For the description of Baltimore and its environs, (excepting that part relating to the rail road whdch is quoted,) I am indebted to John S. Skinner, Esq., the Post Master of that city, and able editor of the Ameri- can Farmer ; a work which has an extensive patron- age, but which cannot be too widely disseminated. BALTIMORE. 45 city and remarkable for their costliness, taste andcom- modiousness, it stands undoubtedly in the first rank for enterprise and public spirit. For tobacco and flour Baltimore is the leading market ; for flour, the first in the world. Within 20 miles around, the water power is almost incalculable. It drives at present more than sixty flour mills, one of which has turned out 32,000 bar- rels in one year. There are, too, within that compass, twelve cotton manufactories, keeping in motion 30,000 spindles, besides manufactories of cloth, powder, paper, iron, glass, steam engines, extensive chemical works, and one mill by steam power for manufacturing flour and copper, that has turned off" 200 barrels a day, and works annually about 600,000 pounds of raw copper. Many of these may conveniently be visited by sojourn- ers in the city, on foot or by short rides in the immedi- ate vicinity. The city, as re-chartered in 1816, contains 10,000 acres, and embraces within the limits built upon, a court house, jail, penitentiary, lunatic asylum, two the- atres, the largest circus in America, an exchange, an observatory founded by the father of the gallant Com- modore Porter, two museums, five market houses, ten banks, gas works, (the first in this country for lighting the streets and houses,) a public library, a medical col- lege, and 45 houses of public worship. Most of these estabhshments would be worthy of the regard of tourists. It cannot be expected that we should describe them minutely, our object being but briefly to indicate their existence ; but almost all stran- gers make a visit to the cathedral, the exchange, the public fountains, of which there are four tastefully or- 46 ' BALTIMORE. namented and giving a copious supply of pure spring water ; the museums, the monuments, and the rail roads. The Cathedral is built after the Grecian Ionic order, on a plan drawn by that distinguished and lamented architect, the late H. B. Latrobe. Its outward length is 190 feet, its width 177, and its height to the summit of the cross that surmounts the dome is 127 feet. A minute description of the numerous ornaments and spe- cimens of taste in the fine arts that abound in this magnificent building, would be incompatible with the plan of this work ; but we may advise the tourist that, amongst others, it contains the largest organ in the United States, with 6000 pipes and 36 stops, and two very splendid paintings— one the descent from the cross, by Paulin Guerin, a present from Louis XVI — another, presented by the present King of France, representing St. Louis, attended by his chaplain and armor-bearer, bvirying one of his officers slain before Tunis, as an en- couragement to his officers and soldiers, who, for fear of contagion, would have left their comrades to be de- voured by beasts and birds of prey. The Merchants' Exchange, built by private sub- scription, is another monument to the public spirit of the citizens. This edifice, from Water to Second, front- ing on Gay-street, is 255 by a depth on the two first of 141 feet, and is three stories high exclusive of the base- ment. In the centre is the great hall, 86 feet by 53, lighted from the dome, which is 90 feet from the floor. In this hall, to which they have access by three entran- ces from three streets, the merchants convene daily from 1 to 2 o'clock. BALTIMORE. 47 On a Bcale corresponding with these buildings in ex- tent and convenience, according to their several de- signs and objects, the traveller may be edified and amused by an inspection of the other public edifices, which here we could only designate by name. But in any thing hke a picture of Baltimore as a guide for the tourist, its monuments and its rail roads, leading to the Ohio and the Susquehannah, are decidedly the most striking features. The one called the Battle Monu- ment, an elegant marble structure about 55 feet high, was commenced on the scite of the old court house in Washington Square, on the 12th of September, 1815, in memory of those who, on the 12th and 13th of the same month in the preceding year, had fallen gallantly in defence of the city. Another splendid monument called the Washington Monument, built of white marble, ornamental to the city and honourable to its inhabitants, (but vain as an efibrt to extend the fame of him whose glory is as wide and imperishable as the empire of letters,) has been erected on an elevation a little north of the com- pact part of the city, presented for that purpose by the late Col. John E. Howard, the hero of Eutaw and of the Cowpens. The base is 50 feet square and 23 high, on which is placed another square of about half the ex- tent and elevation. On this, is a column 20 feet in di- ameter at the base, and 14 at the top. The colossal statue of Washington, the largest one in modem ages, is placed on the summit 163 feet from the ground. This monument is to be embellished with has reliefs and other decorations. d2 48 BALTIMORE. The Baltimore and Ohio Rail Road commences a short distance from the Washington turnpike road on West Pratt street, where the company have estabhsh- ed a depot. It is finished as far as EUicott's mills, and supplied with rails a considerable portion of this dis- tance ; so that carriages are daily passing on it, and in the course of the summer, (1S30) it is expected that passengers and transportation waggons will regularly occupy the road, and afford to citizens and strangers one of the most delightful trips imaginable. There are few more romantic scenes than that of EUicott's mills and the vicinity on the Patapsco, through the most pic- turesque part of which the road passes ; and as the time occupied in going will only be about an hour, and the mode of travelling being as free from jolt and jar as a sleigh ride, it is anticipated that few will leave the city without having taken one of these airings. There are many points on the rail road worthy of particular notice, the most prominent of which is the bridge (or Carrollton Viaduct as it is called,) over Gwynn's Falls, about one and a half miles from the city. This is one of the most magnificent pieces of architecture in Ameri- ca — alike beautiful in proportion, materials and work- manship. This bridge is built of a beautifiil granite, contains one arch of about 80 feet span, and 10 fpot in height, and is 312 feet in length from end to end of the parapets. " The Jackson Bridge, Is a single arch 109 feet long, of entirely novel structure, the invention of Col. Long, of the company's board of engineers. The Deep Cut, through a high and broad ridge of land, is about three fouiths of a mile in length, its greatest depth 70 feet, BATIMOKE. 49 and its width, at the summit of the ridge, 184 feet. Quantities of carbonized wood were found sixty feet below the natural surface, and the stump of a tree with its roots at forty feet. The entire excavation is 263,- 848 cubic yards. The Great Embankment at Gadsbxfs Run, five miles from Baltimore, is nearly a mile in length, its greatest elevation 56 feet, and its greatest width 191 feet. At the top, the usual width of 26 feet is preserved for a double set of rails. Gadsby^s Run Viaduct, affords a passage to the waters of the run through the embankment. The arch, composed of dressed granite blocks, is of the extraordinary width of 120 feet from opening to opening. The Patterson Via- duct, is an immense structure of granite, by which the road is carried to the opposite bank of the Petapsco. It is built of granite blocks, from one to seven tons in weight, and its entire length is 375 feet. It has four beautiful arches, the two centre ones each a span of 55 feet, with extensive wings and water walls, abutments, &c. The height from the water to the crown of the arches is 30 feet. The corner stone of this structure was laid on the 6th May, 1829, and on the 4th of De- cember it was crossed on horseback by William Pat- terson, esq. for whom the honor had been reserved, and whose name it bears. It embraces nearly 10,0C0 perches of masonry. Besides these are the embank- ments at Stillhouse Run, two granite viaducts, the rock-side cutting at Buzzard's Rock, &c." This road is to extend to the Ohio river at Pitts- burgh, Penn. a distance of about 300 miles ; and will be travelled, it is calculated, with horse power in 30, and with steam power in 20 hours through the whole line. 50 BALTIMORE. The Baltimore and Susquehannah Rail road haa also been commenced. It is to extend from Baltimore to York Haven on the Susquehannah river, distant 60 miles. The cost is estimated at $7,500 per mile. For its houses for the accommodation of travellers, Baltimore is not remarkable, except for its City Hotel. This is the most splendid edifice of its kind in the un- ion, if not in the world. It is centrally and most con- veniently situated, presenting a front on Calvert street of 117 feet, running back 183 — taking in two spacious buildings formerly occupied as private residences, so connected with the establishment as to afford two dis- tinct private entrances on Fayette street, which lead to thirteen parlors arranged expressly for the accommoda- tion of private families, with chambers so connected %vith them as to make them as convenient for ladies and children as any private house. The City Hotel con- tains 172 apartments, and was built expressly for a ho- tel, under the direction of its experienced proprietor, Mr. Bamum. In the basement of the building on Cal- vert street is situated the Post-Office, into which the traveller may deposit his letters by a conduit from the large Reading Room above, where they can peruse, gratuitously, the papers from all parts of the union. There are also in the basement the offices of the Amer- ican Turf Register and of the American Farmer, as also the General Stage Office of Stockton & Stokes. All the mail coaches start from this hotel. To all other con- veniences combined in this establishment which travel- lers can desire, is added an observatory on the top of it, constructed expressly to afford to its guests views of the harbor and Fort M'Henry, and the town, and the coun- try seats that surround it. BALTIMORE. 61 The Indian Queen, the next largest establishment, is well and liberally kept by Mr. Bettzhower, its obli- ging and popular tenant. And here we may close this sketch of that patriotic city by the remark, that it is in nothing more distin- guished from our other large cities, than by the beauty of its envirms. A succession of elevated scites rising one above another encircle it from the Philadelphia road on the east to the Washington turnpike on the west. From these eminences the stranger obtains, at a single cmip cPail, a view of the town and its numerous ap- proaches by land and water, its monuments, its domes, its steeples and its towers. Some of these heights are crowned with private res- idences, displaying all the taste and magnificence that characterize the seats of European opulence and re- finement. Of these, the most expensively embellished and conspicuous is " Green Mount," the elegant sum- mer retreat of a gentleman whose taste and hospitality happily correspond with his ample possessions. To the splendid mansion, with all its incidental accommo- dations, on the most extensive and liberal scale, is con- nected a circular promenade of three quarters of a mile in length, overshadowed by trees from every clime, tempting to healthful exercise, and offering on either hand every variety of fruit and flower that cultivated nature has prepared to dehght the eye and gratify the palate. Whilst for the benevolent proprietor a sentiment of universal and profound respect consecrates his 100 acres that border on this line of the city, guarding them from the hand of depredation, strangers entitled to con- 53 rfiOM BALTIMORE TO PHILADELPHIA. sideration visit Green Mount without difficulty and ad- mire it without measure. Finally, in contemplating Baltimore in its various ob- jects of attraction for the tourist, it is not possible to forget one living monument, around which the most in- teresting moral associations are entwined ; for it is there that still resides the last of the ancient fathers who sent forth our glorious proclamation of independ- ence to the world. Whilst its principles continue to be cherished and honored, posterity will hallow with grateful admiration the name of Charles Carroll of Carrollton. FROM BALTIMORE TO PHILADELPHIA. A daily land or water route can be taken ; but since the completion of the Chesapeake and Delaware Ca- nal, the latter is generally preferred. Both routes, however, are given, wath the intermediate distances : Stage Route — 101 miles. Miles. From Baltimore to Herring's Run, 4 Bird's Run, 8 Great Gunpowder falls, 3 Little do 2 Winter's Run, 4 Hartford, 4 Havre de Grace, ... , 11 Susquehannah river, 1 Charleston, 5 North East river, ... 2 Miles. Elkton, 8 Big Elk Creek, 1 Delaware state hne,, 2 Christiana Creek, ... 3 Christiana, . , 5 Newport, . , . , 5 Wilmington,* .,.,.« 4 Brandywine Creek,. 1 Chester, 13 Darby, 8 Schuylhill river, ..... 6 Philadelplaia, 1 ♦Wilmington, a port of entry and the largest town in the state of Delaware, is the only place oTmudi im- PROM BALTIMORE TO PHILADELPHIA. &3 Steam boat and Canal Route — 9Q miles. Miles. Steam boat. From Baltimore to North Point, Ches- apeak bay,) 12 Poole's Island, 10 Mouth of Elk river,. 18 Chesapeake village, on Back river, where the Canal commences....... 4 Canal boat. Passage on the Ca- Milet. nal to Delaware city, 14 Steam boat. Newcastle, 5 Outlet of Brandy- wine creek, 4 Marcus Hook, 9 Chester, 3 Lazaretto, 3 Fort Mifflin, 8 Gloucester, 2 Philadelphia, 4 Tliis route is usually performed in about 12 hours. The steam boat, after leaving the Chesapeake bay en- ters Elk river, but instead of pursuing the old route up the river to Frenchtown, her course is directed up Back Creek to the village of Chester. This creek is narrow and tortuous in its course, and the banks are for the most part covered with a thick foliage of the richest portance on this route. The town is situated between Christiana and Brandywine creeks, 1 mile above their confluence, and 2 miles west of the Delaware river. The great faciUties afibrded here make it an important manufacturing town ; it having some of the finest flour- ing mills and cotton factories in the union. It con- tains from 10 to 12,000 inhabitants, a spacious alms- house, 3 banks, a U. S. arsenal, and 9 churches. An ancient building, called the old Swedish church, erect- ed in 1698, stands near the Christiana creek in this town; opposite to which is an ancient church-yard, used by the first settlers of the place. It contains a few tomb-stones, the inscriptions of which are nearly defaced by the hand of time. 54 CHESAPEAKE AND DELAWARE CANAL. and most delightful kind, rendered more picturesque by being interspersed with an occasional fishing hut. At the village of Chesapeake, the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal commences, where a packet is taken, drawn by six horses. These packets are fitted up in good style, and move at the rate of about 7 miles an hour. This canal, which con- nects the waters of the Chesapeake bay with those of the Delaware river, is 14 miles long, 36 feet wide on the bottom and 60 feet at the surface. It is calculated for the passage of vessels drawing 8 feet of water, though the banks are constructed so as to retain 10 feet, if necessary. There are two tide and two lift locks, and the summit level is a little more than 9 miles long, and 10 feet above ordinary flood tide. Be- tween 2 and 3 miles from Chesapeake village com- mences what is called the Deep Cut. Its length is nearly four miles, and the embankments vary from 8 to 70 feet in height. To furnish something of an idea of the magnitude of the work, it is stated that the earth excavated to form this part of the canal and the neces- sary drains was more than 90 milUons of cubic feet. At the greatest elevation a most imposing work, called Summit Bridge has been extended across. It is built on a hard firm bank, where the original surface attains an elevation of 65 feet, above which the abutments are built 20 feet in thickness. The sides of the canal be- low the abutments are protected by a slope wall laid from the bottom of the canal to the top of the bank, from six to two feet in tliickness. The floor of the bridge is 90 feet above the bottom of the canal ; ex- treme length 280 feet. Independently of the interest PHILADELPHIA. 55 excited by the bridge, the view of the canal from its commanding height is grand beyond description. A flight of steps have been erected, to facilitate the as- cent from the tow-path up the bank. After leaving the Deep Cut, the canal enters what is called The Old Mill Pond, three miles beyond the Cranberry Marshes. Three miles farther are the St. Ceorge's Marshes, the forming of the banks of the ca- nal through which was an immense labor. The spe- cific gravity of the earth used for the purpose exceed- ing that of the surroundmg marshes, it sunk in many places as fast as it could be carted on, and in some in- stances it is calculated to have gone to a depth of from 60 to 80 feet, and in one place 100 feet below the orig-- inal surface, raising many ares of the adjacent marsh- es several feet above original level. At the eastern termination of the canal, the City of Delaware has sprung up like many of the flourishing villages on the banks of the Erie canal in New- York. It will probably become a place of considerable impor- tance. At this village a steam boat is again taken, which, proceeding up the Delaware river, passes in suc- cession the villages of Newcastle, Chester and Laza- retto, Fort Mifflin on an island in the Delaware, and Gloucester, to PHILADELPHIA, The flourishing capital of Pennsylvania. It stands on the west bank of the river Delaware, five miles from its confluence with the Schuylkill, which forms its wes- tern boundary. This city was founded in 1682, and incorporated in 1701. The charter being abrogated at 56 PHILADELPHIA. the revolution, it remained under a provincial govern- ment till 1789, when it was incorporated a second time. Its present population is upwards of 130,000. The city is built on streets from 50 to 100 feet in width, running parallel, and at right angles to each other. They are handsomely paved, and are kept remarkably clean. The houses exhibit an appearance of neatness, uniform- ity and commodiousness, and many of them are orna* mented with white marble. Against the city, which is 90 miles distant from the sea, the Delaware is about a mile wide, and is navigable for ships of a large size. The most conspicuous buildings are the churches, the state house, the United States and Pennsylvania Banks, and the Institution for the Deaf and Dumb. The Bank of the U. S. was established in the year 1816, with a capital of $35,000,000. The banking house is a splen- did structure, built on the plan of the Parthenon at Athens, and is situated in a north and south direction, fronting on Chesnut and Library streets, having 8 fluted columns, 4 feet 6 inches in diameter, embracing the whole front. From each of the fronts are porticoes, projecting 10 feet 6 inches. The whole length of the edifice, including the portico, is 161 feet, and its breadth in front 87 feet. The main entrance is from Chesnut- street, by a flight of six marble steps, extending along the whole front of the portico. The banking room oc- cupies the centre of the building, being 48 feet wide, and 81 feet long. The whole body of the building is arched in a bomb proof manner, from the cellar to the roof, which is covered with copper. There are in this city 88 houses for public worship ; 10 banks, 13 insurance companies, of which S are ma- PHILADELPHIA. 57 fine, 4 fire, and one for lives and annuities, a custom house, an exchange, and a chamber of commerce. The J\''e%o Bank of Pennsylvania is an extensive and el- egant edifice of marble, of the Ionic order, and con- structed after the model of the ancient temple of the muses, on the Ilyssus. The Pennsylvania Hospital is one of the oldest and most respectable institutions of that description in the Union. The State House, in which the continental congress sat, and from whence the Declaration of Independence issued, is still standing. It is located in Chesnut-street, is built of brick, comprising a centre and two wings, and has undergone no material alteration since its first erec- tion. It has a venerable appearance, and is surmount- ed by a cupola, having a clock, the dial of wliich 13 glass, and is illuminated at night until 10 or 11 o'clock, shewing the hour and minutes until that time. The front is a considerable distance back from the street, the walk being paved to the curb-stone with brick, and two elegant rows of trees extending its whole length. East of the main entrance, in the front room, the ses- sions of congress were held, and the question of inde- pendence decided. The Arcade in Philadelphia, like that at New- York, iias proved a bad speculation — though the former is twice the size of the latter, and appears to be more de- serted. It contains Peale's Museum, one of the best in the United States, comprising the most complete skeleton of the Mammoth perhaps in the world. It is perfect, with the exception of a few bones, which have 58 PHILADELPHIA. been supplied by imitating the others. This skeleton was found in Ulster county, New- York. The Academy of Arts, in Chesnut-street, contains a large number of paintings, several of which are the property of Joseph Bonaparte. Among these is one executed by David, representing Napoleon crossing the Alps. Another is a full length portrait of Joseph him- self, as king of Spain. The U. S. Mint, estabhshed here, is at present in an ordinary building ; though a new and handsome edi- fice is constructing for the purpose. Of the pubhc works of Philadelphia, there is none of which its inhabitants are more justly proud than those at Fair Mount, by which the city is supphed with wa- ter of the best quality, in the greatest plenty. Fair Mount is in the rear of the city upon the bank of the Schuylkill, the neighborhood of which affords a variety of romantic scenery. The situation is such as peculiar- ly adapts it for the purpose to M^Iiich it has been devot- ed. The reservoirs are situated on the top of a hill ris- ing from the river, a part of it perpendicular rock, up- wards of one hundred feet. The ascent from the river to the reservoirs is by a flight of substantial wood- en steps, with resting places, over one of which is a temple. The reservoirs, which are surrounded with a pale fence, outside of which is a gi-avelled walk, contain upwards of twelve millions of gallons, supply- ing the city through between 15 and 20 miles of ipipes. The water was formerly forced to the reservoirs by steam, which is no longer used ; it is now raised by machinery propelled by the Schuylkill. The machinery is simple, and is turned by large water wheels, of which PHILADELPHIA. 59 there are five, one of them of iron of 24 tons weight. Their speed may be graduated to any required number of revolutions per minute ; and if all are in motion, they will raise seven millions of gallons 'in 24 hours. To turn them, the Schuylkill has been dammed its whole breadth, by which the water is thrown back into a res- ervoir lock, whence it is admitted as required to ope- rate upon the wheels, and is discharged into the river below the dam. The whole expense of these works, including estimated cost of works abandoned, was $1,783,000. That required to keep them in operation is comparatively trifling. The quantity of water thus disseminated through the city, is not only sufficient for every family, but is used to wash the streets. It is of immense service in case of fire, as it is only necessary to screw the hose to hydrants, which are placed at con- venient distances, to secure a constant stream of suffi- cient force to reach an ordinary height. The Navy Yard (on the Delaware) receives the vis- its of strangers more particularly in consequence of the immense vessel, the Pennsylvania, there erecting. Her dimensions are 198 feet keel, 57 feet beam, and 45 feet in depth from the upper deck to the keel. She has four decks, on which are to be mounted from 140 to 180 guns, manned by 1200 men. The New Penitentiary, located on elevated ground near the city, and nearly completed, is designed to carry the principle of solitary confinement completely into effect. Ten acres of land are occupied for the pur- pose, forming a square of 650 feet each way, and en- closed by massy walls of granite, 35 feet high, with towers and battlements. The prison is in the centre e2 60 PHILADELPHIA. of the square, and is admirably calculated for the pur- poses for which it was designed. The expense already incurred in its erection is $300,000. In amount of shipping, Philadelphia occupies the fourth rank in the U. S. ; and three lines of regular and commodious packets now run between the city and Liverpool. Its principal hotels are, the U. S. Hotel, in Chesnut- street ; the Mansion House, in 3d street ; and Judd's, in 2d street, between Market and Chesnut ; and its principal boarding houses are Mrs. Frazier's in Spen- cer-street, Mrs. Sword's in Walnut, and Mrs. Allen's in 6th street, near the State House. The banks of the Schuylkill, near Philadelphia, con- tain numerous elegant country seats, and several pub- lic buildings. Among the private residences, none are perhaps more justly admired than that of Henry Pratt, Esq. on Lemon Hill. The mansion house is situated on the eastern bank of the river, and directly above the Fair Mount Water Works, about a mile from the city. Connected with the mansion are gardens of the most extensive kind, laid out in a style of much elegance and taste. To these gardens, respectable citizens and strangers have free access ; and a ride to them is among the various pleasant excursions in the vicinity of the city. The Shot Toaver of Mr. Beck is also an object of much curiosity to strangers visiting Philadelphia. It stands on the east bank of the Schuylkill, in the rear of the city, and is a lofty edifice, from the top of which a very extensive view ran bp had of the surrounding country. PENNSYLVANIA CANALS. 61 The Philadelphia and Liverpool Packets, which are handsomely fitted up, sail from Philadelphia on the 20th and from Liverpool on the 8th of each month. Price of passage in the cabin, £30 sterling, and in the steerage, ^25, including accommodations. In the NEW LINE BY WAY OF Savannah, the packets sail from Philadelphia the 20th of each month. INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. The first turnpike in America was made in Pennsyl- vania ; and the state at this time contains near 3000 miles of turnpiked roads, at a cost of about $8,000,000. Among the bridges built across its principal rivers, for- ty five are estimated to have cost $3,000,000 ; and more than $10,000,000 have been expended within the state on canals. The Union Canal was commenced about 40 years since, by a private company ; but having to encounter the expense of an extensive timnel at the summit, of 236 yards in length, and an insufficiency of water for the western section, which is drawn up twenty feet by a steam engine, it was partially abandoned ; but since the completion and successful operation of the Erie and Champlain canals, and a stimulus having been produ- ced in Pennsylvania, this canal was re- commenced and completed, and is in successful operation. It commen- ces near Reading on the Schuylkill river, 51 miles north west of Philadelphia, and extends thence in a westerly direction to Lebanon, and thence along the Swatara creek to Middletown, on the Su)=quehannah river, nine miles below Ilnrrishnrgh, the ?<»at of government of the Ftate. 62 PENNSYLVANIA CANALS. The length of this canal is 79 miles ; the water for the principal supply of the eastern section, a distance of 40 miles, is drawn from the Tulpehockan river, a branch of the Schuylkill. The lockage on this section is 276 1-2 feet in 53 locks : the locks are of various lifts, and cost $650 per foot. The western section extends 39 miles, having a lockage of 226 1-2 feet in 37 locks, besides an expensive tunnel. By a law of the Pennsylvania legislature, charter- ing the Union Canal Company, passed in 1826, they were prohibited from erecting any works which should prevent the descent of rafts in the channel of the Swa- tara. This provision having been repealed in 1829, the company subsequently resolved on extending the canal to a point at or near the village of Pine Grove, about four miles from what is called " The Coal Region." From the basin at the northern extremity of the canal, it is contemplated to extend rail roads along the vallies of the Swatara and its various branches, which inter- sect the country in every direction, and afRjrd ground admirably adapted for their construction. Another opening at Fishing creek, near the termination of the great reservoir, is said to possess equal advantages, both as respects the position of its coal and the facility of access. These mines, it is supposed by competent judges, can be wrought as easily and economically as those of Mount Carbon ; and it is confidently predicted, that at no very distant day, the Swatara coal will form an im- portant item of the consumption and exportation of the city of Philadelphia. i?ENNSYLVAl«IA CANALS. 68 By means of the Union Canal and the Schuylkill slack water navigation, there is a communication from Philadelphia to the Susquehannah river ; and this com- munication is to be greatly extended by means of the Pennsylvania Canal, which is rapidly progressing. This canal commences at Columbia, 80 miles north west of Philadelphia, and unites with the Union Canal at Middletown, 18 miles farther. From thence it pro- ceeds in a westerly direction to the Juniata — thence up that river to the foot of the Allegany mountains, which are to be crossed by a rail road, 40 miles long ;* at the end^f which the canal re-commences, uniting with the Allegany and Ohio rivers at Pittsburgh. The whole length of this canal, including the rail road across the mountains, will be 314 miles, and the lockage rising of 1100 feet. At its eastern termination, a rail road is to be constructed, 80 miles long, passing through the city of Lancaster, to Philadelphia. When this canal, with others in progress in Pennsylvania, shall have been completed, that state (in the language of her canal com- missioners) " will present to the trade of the western country an avenue to the Atlantic coast, equal, if not superior, to any which has been, or can be constructed. Besides, her own manufactures and agricultural pro- ducts, which will seek a market through the canal, are equal in amount to those of any other state, independ- ently of her coal, iron, salt and lumber, which in ton- ♦ Another plan proposed is to pass the summit by a tunnel of one mile in length, and overcoming the eleva- tion by five levels on each side. The expense is es- timated at a little short of ^1,000,000. 64 PENNSYLVANIA CANALS. nage must exceed all other articles transported to market." The Pennsylvania canal will ultimately be added to the list of interesting routes already presented to trav- ellers visiting the middle and northern states. After reaching the Juniata, a singularly romantic and beauti- ful stream, the canal winds along a gentle and practica- ble acclivity, following the bed of the river for nearly a hundred miles. Two mighty ranges of mountains rise from the limpid Juniata, like two green leaves of an im- mense opening volume. These mountains, apparently arranged to the course of this stream, seem to lie al- most at right angles to the great parallel ridges. The Juniata finds a passage by a very equable and gentle declivity through all the mountains except the last ridge that parts its waters from those of the Ohio. More beautiful forms of mountains than these which skirt this river, can no where be seen. Sometimes, for many miles together, they rise, smooth, verdant and unbrok- en, by equable slopes, from the very verge of the stream to the height of twelve hundred feet ; and here, appar- ently, when the fountains of the great deep were brok- en up, the rocky summits of the mountains were dis- membered at the same time. For miles together, and in many places the whole sides of the grand slope, from summit to base, are strown with large fragments of smooth building stone; and it is inconceivable how smoothly and completely they line the sides of these mighty hills. Layers of these rocks cover thousands of acres, for a depth apparently of forty or fifty feet ; and for a considerable distance the road is formed by the re- moval of these layers along the roots of the mountains, PENNSYLVANIA CANALS. 65 the carriage winding its way many hundred feet above the canal, which is perpendicularly below. In other places, more recent slides of the earth and rocks from the summits of the mountains have cut away a visible and uniform path, sweeping trees and every obstacle before it, until the spoils are accumulated at the foot of the mountains. Indeed, every foot of this route of a hundred miles is enriched with scenery of unexampled sublimity ; and we can imagine no higher treat for the tourist than a passage along its banks, connected with the crossing of the Alleganies, and a trip to Pittsburgh. In addition to the foregoing, the state have construct- ed, or are constructing, a canal from Middletown, at the junction of the Union Canal with the Susquehannah, to Muncy Hills upon the West Branch of that river, 90 miles in length ; another from Northumberland, at the junction of the East and West Branches of the Susque- hannah, up the former branch, to Nanticoke falls, 55 miles ; another from Bristol, up the Delaware river, to Easton, near the junction of the Lehigh and Delaware, 60 miles ;* and another from French creek (a navigable * This is what is usually called the Delaware canal, and is designed to be completed ultimately from Philadelphia to Carpenter's Point, forming a junction with the Morris and Lehigh canals at Easton, and with the Delaware and Hudson canal at Carpenter's Point, the boundary hne between Pennsylvania and New- York. [These canals are noticed in the subsequent pages of this loork.] It is divided into three sections : the lower section extends from Philadelphia to Bristol, distance 17 1-2 miles, estimated at $11,474 per mile. 66 PENNSYLVANIA CANALS. Stream which rises within 10 miles of Lake Erie, and joins the Allegany 80 miles from Pittsburgh) to Muddy run, in the north west part of the state, 19 1-2 miles. The whole extent of canals placed under contract by the state commissioners in 1829, was 428 1-2 miles ; of which distance, 195 miles were then navigable, vir. which is $202,799. The middle section commences at Bristol and extends to Easton, distance 60 miles, es- timated cost $11,443 per mile, which is $686,596. Up- per section from Easton to Carpenter's Point, distance 70 miles, lockage 268 1-3 feet. Estimated by the com- missioners to cost $20,438 per mile ; do. by H. G. Sergeant, civil engineer, at $18,530, which is $1,300,- 608 34 : whole length of this canal 147 1-2 miles, cost $2,190,003 34. This canal, when connected with the Delaware and Hudson canal, and the Belmont rail road to be constructed from the head of the canal at Dyber- ry, up a branch of the Lackawaxen and down the Sta- rucca to Harmony, will open a communication be- tween Philadelphia and the Susquehannah river, dis- tance 227 miles. The length of the rail road will be about 30 miles, elevation and depression about 1200 feet. The location is favorable for a rail road, as there is an abundance of water on the whole route to operate the necessary stationary engines to overcome the grav- ity by inclined planes. The state of New- Jersey also contemplates construct- ing a canal from the Rariton river in that state to the Delaware, distance 40 miles ; and an arrangement has been made by commissioners appointed by New-Jersey and Pennsylvania, by which each state, on certain con- ditions, shall have liberty to erect dams on the Dela- ware (which forms the boundary line between the two states) for the uses of the respective canals, and for hy- draulic purposes. PENNSYLVANIA CANALS. 67 From Pittsburgh to the head of the dam at Blairsville, 75 miles ; from the mouth of the Juniata to Lewiston, 45 miles ; from Middletown to Clark's Ferry, 24 miles ; from the mouth of the Juniata to Northumberland, 41 miles ; and on the French creek feeder, 10 miles. A great portion of the remaining 233 1-4 miles they re- ported to be nearly finished, and the whole in a state of rapid progress to the completion. The amount then expended on these works was $6,- 406,000 ; the debts due, ^1,398,780 67 ; and the estima- ted amount of labor to be performed, of ever}'^ descrip- tion, $2,060,742 39— making the total cost $9,865,- 533 06. Besides these canals, are the following, belonging to incorporated companies : The Schuylkill Canal, from Philadelphia up the Schuylkill river, intersecting the Union canal at Read- ing, to the Schuylkill coal mines at Mount Carbon — lockage 588 feet — length 108 miles, including 46 miles of slack water on the river. The navigation commen- ced in 1825, when the tolls received by the company amounted to only $15,775 ; since which there has been a great annual increase — the tolls in 1829 having amounted to $120,039. The Lehigh Canal, from Easton, on the Delaware, up the Lehigh river to the coal mines at Mauch Chunk, and from thence to Stoddartsville. Length of the ca- nal 46 miles, lockage 35 feet, slack water 38 miles, whole distance 84 miles. 68 THE COAL MINES. THE COAL MINES. Since the discovery and opening of the extensive coal mines in Pennsylvania, and the great internal im- provements which have been made in the state, pro- viding an easy communication to them, it has become almost a matter of course to embrace them within the tour of the middle and northern states. The Lehigh and Schuylkill, the principal mines already explored, are located from 100 to 120 miles in a north-easterly direction from Philadelphia, between a chain of moun- tains denominated the Blue Ridge and the Susque- hannah river. The anthracite district is principally occupied by mountains running parallel to the Blue Ridge, often broad with table land summits, and rising generally about 1500 feet above the ocean. These summits, by repeated fires, have been principally di- vested of timber, and are generally too stony for til- lage. The beds and veins of anthracite range from north-east to south-west, and may often be traced for a considerable distance by the compass ; but they have been found in the greatest quantity in sections most accessible by water. Extensive beds and veins range from the Lehigh to the Susquehannah, crossing the head waters of the Schuylkill and Swatara about ten miles north-west of the Blue Ridge. They are al- so found contiguous to the Susquehannah and Lacka- wanna. But in no part of the district does the anthra- cite exist in such apparently inexhaustible beds as in the vicinity of Mauch Chunk, a village situated on the Lehigh, 35 miles from Easton, and lOS by water from Philadelphia. The coal is there excavated on the flat THE COAL MINES. 69 summit of a mountain that rises near 1 500 feet above the ocean. It is disclosed for several miles on the summit wherever excavations have been made, and is indicated in many places by coal slate in a pulverulent st3,te, on the surface. The mountain rises with steep acclivity, particularly on the north-west side, and when penetrated at various altitudes, discloses coal at about the same distance from the surface. In the deep exca- vations made on the summit, no termination of the coal has been found, and it is not improbable that an- thracite forms the nucleus of the mountain for a con- siderable distance. The coal is rendered accessible by removing from the flat summit gravelly loam, which is from a few inches to four feet in depth, and disintegrated slate with impure coal, from two to four feet. The coal rests in a horizontal position, narrow parallel seams of argillaceous schist intervening. Strong chalybeate springs, holding in solution sulphate of iron, issue from the mountain's side. The coal excavation on the sur- face is extensive, and from 30 to 40 feet deep, forming a hollow square, bounded by lofty mural precipices of coal. Waggons are admitted by avenues that serve to discharge water from the mine. Next to Mauch Chunk, Mount Carbon, or Pottsville, situated at the head of the Schuylkill canal, has been the principal source of the supply of anthracite. Many large veins are worked within three miles of the lan- ding ; and some have been opened seven miles to the north-east in the direction of the Lehigh beds. The chief veins wrought are, one situated on an eminence adjacent to the village ; Bailey's mine, about 2 miles 70 THE COAL. MINES. from Pottsville and near the turnpike to Lunbury, and on the territory of the New- York Schuylkill company about 3 miles from the village. On almost every em- inence adjacent to Pottsville, indications of coal are dis- closed. The veins generally run in a north-east direc- tion, with an inclination of about 45 degrees, and are from 3 to 9 feet in thickness. Commencing at or near the surface, they penetrate to an unknown depth, and can often be traced on hills for a considerable distance, by sounding in a north-east or south-west direction. Some veins have been wrought to a depth of 200 feet without a necessity of draining, the inclined slate roof shielding them from water. Where the ground admits, it is considered the best mode of working veins to com- mence at the back of a coal mine eminence, or as low as possible, and work up, filling the excavation with slate and fine coal, leaving a horizontal passage for the coal barrows. A section of a wide vein near Pottsville has been excavated by this mode several hundred feet into the hill. On the extensive tract occupied by the New-York company, five miles from Pottsville, there are also in- exhaustible coal beds, in the excavating of which from 300 to 400 hands are employed. South-west of Pottsville the coal becomes more easi- ly ignited, and that at Peter's mountain, a few miles east of Donville, is said to contain bitumen. It is probable that the coal in that vicinity embraces, like the Wilkesbarre, much more inflammable gas than the Lehigh, which may have led to the supposition that it was bituminous. THE COAL MINES. 71 Anthracite is found on several of the streams that discharge into the Susquehannah, on its eastern side. A large bed exists a few miles easterly from Berwick, and numerous veins occur from an elevated part of the Wilkesbarre mountain, to the Kingston and Shawnese mountains, that form the western border of the basin of Wyoming. Veins of coal in the vale of the lat- ter,* about 125 miles north-west of Philadelphia, are not only very numerous, occurring on almost every farm, but many are of imcommon thickness.f Extensive beds of coal are also found adjoining the head waters of the Lycoming creek ; and a Lycoming Coal Company has already been chartered, with a cap- ital of $250,000. This coal lies in horizontal veins ele- vated considerably above the ordinary level of the ad- jacent country, and is, of course, mined with much less difficulty than in many other districts. The state ca- nal up the west branch of the Susquehannah river in- tersects with the Lycoming creek, to the mouth of ♦ The valley of Wyoming is rendered memorable in history from the bloody massacre of the white settlers by the Indians, commanded by Col. Butler during the rev- olution, and immortalized in song by the beautiful po- em of Campbell. The village of Wilkesbarre, on the Susquehannah river, has been built near the place of this massacre. Solomon's creek, a tributary stream, and which unites with the Susquehannah in this valley, contains two very romantic falls, a short distance from Wilkesbarre. fFor the preceding sketch of the coal region, the editor is mostly indebted to the Journal of Science and Arts, an invaluable work, published at New-Haven, Conn, by Professor Silliman. f2 4^2 ROUTE TO THE SCHUYLKILL MINES. which, the company are authorized to constnict a rail road, 20 miles in length. When completed, they will have an uninterrupted rail road and canal communica- tion to Philadelphia, distant, by land and water, 260 miles. When the Columbia and Philadelphia rail road shall have been completed, this distance will be less- ened 40 miles. This mine is advantageously located for supplying the city of New- York and the south-wes- tern part of the state, and will doubtless prove of great value to the company. Route to the Schuylkill Coed MineSf by canaL Boats leave Philadelphia daily for Mount Carbon, and though the progress by canal is somewhat tardy, the tourist will nevertheless find himself amply com- pensated by selecting this mode of conveyance, in the rich and diversified scenery which awaits him. From Philadelphia to the Fairmount Dam, the Schuylkill is lined with newly erected wharves ; and every thing in- dicates the great advantages w^hich are daily resulting to a numerous population from the internal improve- ments of the state. Manatunk, the first village on the route, worthy of note, was commenced in 1819 ; since which it has grown with much rapidity, and contains several exten- Bive manufactories and a number of handsome dwell- ings. Shortly after passing Manayunk, the canal en- ters a basin connected with the river, which is used for boats until reaching the Plymouth Locks, where the canal is about two thirds of a mile long ; when it again enters the river. ROUTE TO THE SCHUYLKILL MINES. 73 Near these locks is a large spring, from which suffi- cient water flows to turn a mill. NoRRisTOWN, 16 miles above Philadelphia, is hand- somely located on the north bank of the Schuylkill. It is the capital of Montgomery county, and contains a number of elegant dwellings. It was formerly the res- idence of the celebrated Doct. Rittenhouse. PoTTSTOWN, or PoTTSGROVE, 18 miles above Norris- town, is a pleasant village on the east bank of the ri ver. Reading, 16 miles farther, and 51 from Philadelphia, located on the east side of the river, is the capital of Berk's county. It is a flourishing town, regularly laid out, and is inhabited principally by Germans. Its pop- ulation is between 4000 and 5000. Near this place the Union Canal, noticed at page 61, commences. Six miles from Reading is a cutting of 60 feet in depth through a solid rock ; the contract for which having been taken by a Mr. Duncan, the spot is called Dun' can^s Job. From this place to the Blue Ridg-e, the Scuyl- kill winds through a valley in which there is consider- able limestone, the fissures and cavities of which in some places rendered the formation of a retentive ca- nal difficult, Hamburgh is situated on the east side of the river, 15 miles above Reading, near the Blue Ridge. It is a pleasant and thriving village, near which is what is called the Mountain Dam, 27 feet high. The passage of the Schuylkill and canal through the Blue Ridge is interesting and romantic. The moimtains bordering 74 MOUi^T CARBON. the ravine are lofty and precipitous, presenting ledges of old and red sand stone, with coarse and fine silicioua gray wacke. The turnpike winds on the mountain side at a great elevation above the stream, giving to the traveller a subhme and varied scenery. The naviga- tion through the pass, or what is called the Schuylkill Water Gap, is effected by stone dams of magnitude and permanent construction ; and groups of locks, water falls and broad sheets of water are frequent. After passing the Water Gap, the next object of at- traction is the Tunnel, which has been bored through a hill 375 yards for the canal. The village of Orwisburgh is 3 miles farther ; from which to Mount Carbon or Pottsville is 8 miles. This place, centrally located in the coal region, has attained an astonishing growth within a very short period. In 1824 it was a wilderness ; in 1829 it contained 223 ten- ements, and a population of 2700 inhabitants. It also contains a printing-office, from wliich a well conduct- ed weekly journal is issued, a reading room, and 7 or 8 large public houses, which are constantly crowded with strangers. The town is destined to become a place of great business. The coal in this region has been described in the pre- ceding pages of this work. Besides the numerous fa- cilities afforded for its transportation by water, several rail-roads have been constructed, or are rapidly pro- gressing in the immediate vicinity of Mount Carbon. Among these are the Schuylkill Valley Rail Road, 10 miles ; the Mount Carbon, 8 miles ; the Mill Creek, 3 miles ; the West Branch, 17 miles ; and the Little Scluiylkill, 22 miles — making an aggregate of 61 miles. SCHUYLKILL COAL REGION. 75 The Mount Carbon rail-road, which is nearly com- pleted, commences at the landing on the Schuylkill, and passes through Pottsville up to the heads of the Norwegian creek. From its commencement to its ter- mination, there is not a quarter of a mile in which it does not cross one or more veins of coal, at right an- gles. The whole valley watered by this creek, is redo- lent with coal of the finest quality, among which are the extensive veins of Messrs. White, Morris, Nichols, Offerman, Ridgeway, Wetherill and the North Ameri- can and New- York Companies ; the Centreville, Peach Mountain, Mulberry, Flowery Field and Mount Laugh- fee tracts on the east ; the Maderia, Mine Hill, and others on the west. The West Branch rail-road commences at Schuylkill Haven, and extends up to the confluence of the West and west W^est Branches of the Schuylkill, from whence branches are to follow the direction of the two streams to the foot of the Broad Mountain, making a distance, altogether, of about 17 miles. The Little Schuylkill rail-road extends to the river of that name, a branch of the principal stream. It rises 20 miles north east of the Gap in the Blue Ridge, the place of its outlet. The amount of coal sent down the Schuylkill canal in 182S, was 47,417 tons ; in 1829 the quantity was in- creased to 78,783 tons ; and notwithstanding the vast supplies from the Lehigh and other mines, the quanti- ty was insufficient for the demand. It is supposed that the Schuylkill canal alone is capable of conveying to market from 350,000 to 400,000 tons annually. 76 SCHUYLKILL COAL REGION. « Speaking of the coal region, and the rapid rise of vil- lages and increase of population in its vicinity, the Pottsville Journal of the 23d of January, 1830, says : " First on the list of fame and improvement is Port Car' bon, including the additions of Messrs. Lawton, Rhoads, Swift, Pott and Patterson. This was laid out about a year ago — it has now about sixty or seventy buidings, which will be more than doubled next season. This place will in the spring be enlarged by an addition of Mr. Coomb's, which is now being laid out by Mr. John Smith, jun., surveyor, on the south side of Schuylkill, between the upper landings and the first lock. This will contribute much to the facilities of the place, as it >vill include some fine landings, and a spacious basin will also be erected. " Pursuing our course up the route of the Valley Rail Road, we next come to Tuscarora, Middleport, Patter- son, New Philadelphia, and Tuscarora again. The three former places are at the intersection of the large latercJ road which leads up the creek tributary to the river — the latter is at the head of the main rail-road, built by Messrs. Lyons and Lawton. " Up the Mill Creek Rail Road, about two miles, we have St. Clairsville, and at its head New Castle, where the road from Port Carbon intersects the Centre Turn- pike. Both those places have extensive water powers, and are admirably located for mills, &c. " At the junction of the West Branch of the Schuylkill with the main river, Schuylkill Haven is a beautifully situated place, which will be the mart of all the im- mense coal region of the West and west West Branch- es J this location is destined to be the focus of an ex- ROUTE TO THE LEHIGH COAL MINES. 77 tensive business. Minersville is another site on the same branch, nearly west of our place, (Potts ville.) This, from its situation among extensive colUeries, will soon become a populous place, as the residence of those engaged in the coal business. Further up, on the Broad Mountain, is Carbondale, which also promises to be a place of some importance. These are our principal lo- cations — many of them must become places of consid- erable importance. The immense accumulation of min- ing population, as well as others not directly engaged in the coal business, renders it necessary that they should congregate in the most favorable situations for the conveniences of society." Route to the Lehigh Coal Mines, From Orwisburgh, a stage can be taken to Mauch Chunk, at the Lehigh coal mines, a distance of 15 miles in a north-eastwardly direction. This route is recommended to travellers from the south, designing a general visit to the coal region. From the north, the most direct route is, to pursue the line of the Morris canal from Newark, N. Jersey, to Easton, or the route from New- York to Schooley's Mountain, and from thence to Easton, proceeding up the Lehigh to Mauch Chunk. A very common route from Philadelphia to the Lehigh is by steam-boat to Bristol, 20 miles up the Delaware, and from thence by stage through Newton and New-Hope to Easton, 50 miles farther. This route is mostly on the bank of the Delaware, and passes through a pleasant section of the country, affording a rich and diversified scenery. 78 MAUCH CHUNK. MAUCH CHUNK. The village of Mauch Chunk is situated on the west- em bank of the Lehigh, in a deep romantic ravine, be- tween rocky mountains that rise in some parts precipi- tously to 800 or 1000 feet above the stream. Space was procured for dwellings by beaking down the adjacent rocks, and by filling a part of the ravine of the Mauch Chunk creek. A portion of this stream has been trans- ferred to an elevated rail-way, and is used to propel a grist mill. The village contains about 150 dwellings, belonging principally to the Lehigh Company, who have between 800 and 1000 men in their employ. Mauch Chunk seems by nature designed for a place of business, but as there is not sufficient room, owing to the approach of the mountains to the Lehigh, for a town of much size, the business of the place will most likely be confined pretty much to the shipment of coal. The Mauch Chunk Rail-Road leads from near the coal mines on the mountain down an inclined plane to the Lehigh river. It is eight miles long, and has been in operation 3 or 4 years. The sleepers on which the rails rest, as well as the rails, are of wood ; the latter plated with iron. Experiments have been made as to the velocity that might be obtained for the cars loaded with coal and the horses and mules to draw them back to the summit when the coal had been discharged ; and it has been found, that though the speed of the cars might be increased to thirty or forty miles an hour \\ith safety, yet the beasts, as well as the men who guided the cars, became in a few days sickly, on account of LEHIGH RR'ER. 79 the rapid and confused appearance of objects as they were passed on the way. The directors of the com- pany have therefore been compelled to limit the veloci- ty of the cars to 14 miles an hour in their descent, to obviate the disagreeable consequences of the more rap- id motion. Pleasure carriages sometimes go up this rail-way witli strangers ; but the more common prac- tice is to go up in the returning cars. The road gen- erally passes along a narrow shelf, with precipices on its side not unfrequently of from 300 to 600 feet. At the end of the rail-road, the cars are let down to the river on an incUned plane of 700 feet, equal to a perpen- dicular descent of 200 feet. A tunnel, 12 feet high, 20 wide and nearly 800 long, was cut through the mountain by the company in 1826, for the purpose of shortening the passage to a bed of coal supposed to lie on the other side. This labor was lost, as no coal was found in the direction of the tunnel. The beds belonging to the company, however, are in- exhaustible in other directions. The Lehigh Canal was noticed at page 67. The Lehigh River is a copious rapid stream, and rises by various mountain branches forty miles north-west of Mauch Chunk, which unite below Stoddartsville, (to which place it is designed to extend the navigation,) 25 miles above Mauch Chunk. The fall of the river be- tween these two places is 845 feet. Eleven miles be- low Mauch Chunk, it passes through the Kittatinny range of mountains, and in the intermediate space falls 245 feet. From the Lehigh Water Gap, or passage thro' the Kittatinny, to its junction with the Delaware at G 80 LANDING — LEHIGHTON. Easton, 35 miles, it falls 205 feet ; making the entire fall from Stoddartsville 1210 feet. To overcome the descent from Mauch Chunk to Easton, 21 dams and 52 locks have been found necessary. They are located at the head of rapids, enabling the navigator to com- mand an artificial freshet, when the stream from its dispersion would not otherwise admit of the passage of boats. Water from the dam is copiously admitted in- to a rail- way that extends to the foot of the rapid. The gates are attached by hinges to the bottom of the lock, and rise by the force of water admitted from a floom, constructed parallel with the lock, and remain suspend- ed, forming a section of the dam. If the gate of the iloom is closed, the water between the gates passes off, and they fall by their own weight and the pressure of the water from the dam. The Landing, or Lausanne, above Mauch Chunk, from its location at the head of the navigation, and at the commencement of the turnpike road leading to the Susquehannah, will in a short time become a place of deposit for merchandize and produce, destin- ed to and from the upper country. The Nesquehoning creek here empties into the Lehigh, and will tend much to bring the town forward and render it a place of bu- siness, as from the extensive water power which tliis stream affords, manufactories canbeestabhshed at com- paratively a very small expense. Eight ^miles below Mauch Chunk is the pleasant village of Lehighton. The ground plot of the town is laid out upon an elevated piece of table land, and the lots are sufficiently large to afford an extensive garden and yard LEHIGH WATER GAP BETHLEHEM. 81 to each dwelling. The village commands a prospect of the river and canal ; the valley in which the town of Weiss Port is located ; the Blue Mountain in the distance, and a nearer view of the Mahoning mountain and the Lehigh hills. The Mahoning creek flows at the foot of the Mahoning mountain, and empties into the Lehigh within half a mile of the village, where has been discovered a mineral spring, the waters of which have proved highly beneficial in many cases of disease and debility. The Lehigh Water Gap is 3 miles farther. The river is here confined within very narrow limits, being bounded on either side with the bold and precipitous Kittatinny mountains. The scenery is in a high de- gree wild, picturesque and frequently sublime. Be- low the mountains the features of nature are less magnificent, but still follow in a romantic succession of strongly contrasted and elegant landscapes. Bethlehem is 11 miles from the Water Gap. It is a settlement of the Moravians, or United Brethren. The situation is healthful and pleasant, and it is a place much resorted to in the summer months. The church belong- ing to the society, is one of the largest in the state, though exhibiting in its structure much plainness. From its steeple, a very beautiful, picturesque and ex- tended view can be obtained. In one direction the scene stretches for upwards of 20 miles along the course of the Lehigh and the Water Gap, the wandering ex- plorations of the eye terminating at the Blue Mountain range. 82 EASTON. When a death occurs, a part of the choir ascend the steeple, where a requiem or funeral hymn is sung for their departed brother or sister. The body is subse- quently placed in what is termed the " corpse house," a building detached from all others, where it remains three days, typical of the death and burial of the Sav- iour, and then is interred in the church yard. This is di- vided into various departments and methodically arran- ged, though with much plainness and simplicity. The society take charge of their own poor, of which, however, there are very few ; a strong argument in fa- vor of their regulations. The town is supphed with water from the Monockosy creek. The works are said to be the oldest in the state, having been in operation more than eighty years. Those at Fairmount, Philadelphia, are constructed upon similar principles. The house where Gen. La Fayette lay during his recovery from the wound he received at the battle of Brandywine, is pointed out here. His nurse on that occasion has continued to reside in the place ever since, and received a visit from him wheri he was last in this country. E ASTON is 12 miles from Bethlehem, and is the capi- tal of Northampton county, Penn. It is located on the Delaware river, innnediately above the entrance of the Lehigh, in a valley between the Musconetcunk moun- tains. Several rude and isolated hills stand in the val- ley, commanding extensive views and giving to the place a picturesque appearance. The town is tasteful- ly laid out, with an open square in the centre, and con- tains several handsome dwellings. Its public buildings MORRIS CANAL. 8S are a court house, jail, poor house, 3 churches, a bank and an academy. A bridge extending across the Dela- ware at this place cost $60,000. There is also a chain bridge across the Lehigh. The location of Easton is highly favorable for trade ; and it will ultimately become one of the most important towns in the state. Besides the great advantages here possessed for manufacturing purposes, and the contigu- ity of the place to the Delaware and Lehigh rivers, it is the point at which three important canals, the Dela- ware, the Lehigh and the Morris, when completed, will concentrate. The two first liave been already noticed. (See pages 65 and 67.) The Morris Canal extends from Easton to Newark, N. Jersey, a distance of 86 miles, and from thonce to Powle's Hook, opposite New- York, 8 miles further, lockage 1600 feet, which is to be surmounted by inchn- ed planes. The eastern section of this canal was com- pleted in 1829. From Newark to Patterson, the coun- try through which the canal passes is beautiful. At the latter place, a view of the extensive manufactories is had, located on the north. On the south, the canal for some distance is bounded by mountainous rugged cliffs, the rocky excavations through which were attended with great labor and expense. Four miles above Pat- terson is what is called the Grand Aqueduct across the Passaic river at the Little Falls. This aqueduct may justly be ranked, for its admirable construction, work- manship, space of the arch and elevation, with the greatest object? of curiosity in artificial navigation, and altogether may be considered superior to anv thing of g2 84 ROUTES FROM EASTON. the kind in this country. Half a mile further is an aqueduct across the Pompton river, a work of consid- erable magnitude. The whole route, indeed, from Newark to Easton is interesting ; and when the canal is completed, which is contemplated the present season (1830) it will not only greatly lessen the price of Lehigh coal at New- York, but will be frequently used by stran- gers as the travelling route between the coal region and that city. From Easton to the Delaware Water Gaj), the distance is 23 miles. The route proceeds up the river to Rich- mond, 14 miles ; from thence to Williamsburgh, 4 miles ; and from the latter place to the Water Gap, 5 miles. The current of the stream is here contracted at the base of two lofty mountains in opposite directions, between which the passage is extremely narrow. It is supposed that here was formerly a barrier over which the river flowed in the form of a cataract, which was subsequently worn away, leaving a smooth unruffled current. The scene is wild and highly mterestincr. From Easton to the Delaware Wind Gap, an important passage through the Blue Mountains, is 12 miles, in a northwardly direction. From Easton to Schoohfs J\Iotintain, and thence to J^'ew- York, the whole distance is 71 miles, as follows : Miles. From Easton to Phil- ipsburgh, 1 Miles. Morristown, *. . 6 Passaic river, 7 Top of Schooly's Newark, 11 Mountain, 24 Mendham, 12 New- York, 10 FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. 85 Schooly's Mountain, in New-Jersey, is a place of fashionable resort from New- York, in the summer months, owing to its cool, airy and, healthful situation, and to the extensive prospect afforded from its top ; on which there is an excellent public house. Within a mile of its summit there are mineral springs, which are usually resorted to by visitants at the mountain house. Newark, N. J. which is located on the route, and which is witliin 10 miles of that city, is one of the most elegant villages in the union. It is situated near the west bank of the Passaic river, 3 miles from its mouth, and is laid out in regular streets, the principal being 200 feet wide. The public square, near the centre, is very handsome, and is surrounded by a number of ele- gant private dwellings. The public buildings in the place are a court house, jail, two banks, an academy and six churches. The population is between 6000 and 7000. Having thus far diverged from the usual route to the north, for the purpose of describing the coal region, and the most interesting natural and artificial objects con- nected therewith, we return to Philadelphia, to resume the regular excursion. FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. The routes and modes of conveyance being various, we give a sketch of each, that the traveller may make such selection as shall be most agreeable. BY LAND AND WATER. Variety 1. By the Trenton and Meui-Bnmsxoiclt steam-boat line. — A steam-boat is taken at Philadelphia 86 FROM PHTLADBLPHIA TO NEW-YORK. at 6 A. M. which proceeds up the Delaware, touching at Burlington, N. J. distant 18 miles, Bristol 1 mile, Bordentown 9 miles, to Trenton 5 miles farther. Here a stage is taken for New-Brunswick, N. J. 26 miles from Trenton, the route passing through Lawrenceville 6 miles, Princeton 4 miles, Kingston 2 miles, from whence to New-Brunswick is 14 miles. A steam-boat is again taken, which touches at Amboy 1 3 miles, Eliz- abethtown Point 12 miles, from whence to New- York is 10 miles. The whole distance on this route is 94 miles, and the boats run daily, starting from each city at the same hour in the morning. Variety 2. By B(yrdentoion and South-Amhoy. — Boats leave at 6 A. M. and land passengers at Bordentown, 28 miles distant, from whence a stage is taken, passing through Cranberry 15, Spottiswood 10, South-Amboy 8, to North- Amboy 2 miles. A steam-boat is here tak- en, which passes Elizabethtown Point as before. The whole distance on this route is 85 miles, and is per- formed between the two cities by day-light. Variety 3. By Staten Island. — ^The route is the same as that mentioned in Variety 1 to New-Brunswick ; from whence a steam-boat is taken, passing Wood- bridge 10, Staten Island Sound (new ferry) 4, Castle- ton 7, Lazaretto 1, to New- York 5 miles. Whole dis- tance 84 miles. The A-iew afforded of Staten Island and its scenery on this route is unusually fine and in- teresting. NEW-JERSEY. 87 LAND ROUTE — 94 milcs. Miles. From Philadelphia to Rising Sun, 4 Milestown, 3 Tacony creek, 2 Jenkintown, 2 Abington, 1 Willowgrove, 2 Hatborough, 2 Cross Roads, 4 Neshaminy Bridge, . . 3 Greenville, 5 Great Spring, 3 New Hope, 2 Miles. Cross the Delaware to Lambertsville, N.J. 1 New Meeting, 3 OldRingos, 3 Rariton Bridge, 14 Somerville, 4 Roundbrook, 4 Plainfield, 6 Scotch Plains, 3 Springfield, 6 Camptown, 4 Newark, 3 New- York, 10 This route may be varied so as to pass through New- Brunswick ; or it may be continued up the Pennsylva- nia side to Easton, and from thence by Schooly's Mountain to New- York. (See p. 84.) The prices of fare from Philadelphia to New- York vary from $2 to $3.50, and the route is usually per- formed in 12 hours. THE STATE OF NEW-JERSEY, Through which the route extends, is bounded on the north by New- York; east by New- York and the At- lantic ocean ; south-west by the Delaware Bay, which divides it fiom Delaware; and west by Pennsylvania. The south-east part of the state is low and sandy ; the middle part abounds with hills, and in the upper part there is a continuation of the Blue Ridge and South Mountains commencing in Pennsylvania. On the lat- ter chain is Schooly's Mountain, noticed at page 85. The principal towns through which the traveller gen- 88 BURLINGTON — TRENTON. erally passes are Burlington, Bristol, Bordentown, Trenton, Princeton and New-Brunswick. Burlington is the capital of the county of the same name, is 12 miles below Trenton and 18 above Phil- adelphia. It is delightfully situated, and contains some handsome public and private houses. Bristol is on the opposite side of the Delaware, 19 miles from Philadelphia, in Bucks county, Pennsylva- nia. This place contains several fine residences, and is an attractive and interesting country village. Some of its flower gardens, which are unusually elegant, and located on the margin of the river, add much to the beauty of its appearance. Bordentown, 24 miles from Philadelphia, and 6 be- low Trenton, is noted as the residence of the Count de Survilliers, the ex-king of Spain, whose elegant mansion was within a few years burnt by accident, but is now rebuilt with additional embellishment and magnifi- cence. His villa commands a fine view of the river. The soil around it is unproductive ; but by the aid of culture and art, his residence now exhibits an appear- ance of taste and munificence worthy the princely for- ture and dignity of its proprietor. From Bordentown a staae route is established to South-Amboy. (See p. 86.) Trenton, the capital of the state of New-Jersey, is situated on the Delaware river, 30 miles from Philadel- phia. It contains about 4000 inhabitants, a state house, two banks, and six houses of public worship. At Tren- PRINCETON. 89 ton the steam-boat navigation on the Delaware ter- minates. The river here forms a considerable rapid or falls, near which is an elevated bridge, about a quarter of a mile long, neatly roofed, and the sides enclosed to secure it from the weather. The distance between Trenton and New-Brunswick is passed by an excel- lent line of post-coaches, which leave the former place immediately on the arrival of the boat. This route af- fords the traveller a fine view of the most fertile section of the state; and, making all allowances for roads, which are ordrnary, it is, in other respects, by no means devoid of interest. This section of New- Jersey is full of interest. Some of the most important scenes of the revolution, and those which gave a point and character to the Amer- ican war, here transpired at the most gloomy period of that contest. It was for a length of time in the pos- session of the English, and was the theatre of much carnage and bloodshed. The capture of a detachment of English and German troops in December, 1776, at Trenton, M'as the first signal victory that crowned our arms in the revolutionary contest. It cheered the droop- ing and depressed spirits of our little army, and impart- ed new vigor to the cause of liberty. The retreat of Washington with his troops, from Trenton, considering the circumstances which surrounded him, and the se- crecy with which it was accompUshed, may be justly contemplated as one of the most successful movements of that eventful period. Princeton is located on an elevated piece of land 10 miles from Trenton, 16 from New-Brunswick, 40 from 90 STATEN ISLAND. Philadelphia, and 50 from New-Xork. It overlooks an extensive prospect, and is a very handsome village. It contains a college, theological seminary, a presbyte- rian church, and about 100 dwelling houses. The col- lege of New- Jersey was founded in 1738. It has a president, 3 professors, and 2 tutors. The theological seminary was established in 1812, by the general assembly of the presbyterian church. It has 3 professors, a respectable library, and upwarsds of 100 students. In the college yard are the remains of the presidents of the institution. Burr, Edwards, Davis, Finley, With- erspoon and Smith. New-Brunswick is the starting place for the New- York steamboats. In this village is the theological seminary, under the direction of the synod of the Dutch reformed church. The village also contains a court house, gaol, a college edifice, and five churches. Perth Amboy is 13 miles from New-Brunswick, 35 south-west of New- York, and 74 north-east of Phil- adelphia. Its harbor is one of the best on the conti- nent, audits shipping in 1816 amounted to 10,899 tons. Elizabethtown, 12 miles in a south-westwardly di- rection from New- York, is pleasantly situated on a creek emptying itself into Staten Island Sound. A steamboat plies between the point and New- York. Staten Island, constituting the county of Rich- mond, is 14 miles long and 8 wide. It was the resi- dence of the late vice-president Tompkins, and con- tains several deUghtful country seats. NEW-YORK. 01 On approaching New- York, the most prominent ob- jects that meet the eye, are Fort La Fayette, Castle Williams, the lofty spires of Trinity and St, Paul's churches, and the Catholic cathedral. NEW-YORK. This city is situated on the point of York Island, at the confluence of the Hudson and East rivers, in lati- tude 40. It was founded by the Dutch, in 1615, under the name of New- Amsterdam, and was incorporated by the British in 1696. The island on which it stands is 15 miles long, and from 1 to 3 miles broad. The city is situated on the south part of the island, and extends along the Hudson about 2 miles, and from the Battery along East river nearly 4 miles. The early settlements were commenced at and near the Battery, from wliich streets were extended without reference to order or regularity ; and this accounts for the seeming want of taste in laying out the streets towards the docks and harbor. The Battery is situated at the south-west point of the city, opposite to Governor's island. It is hand- somely laid out into gravel walks, and tastefully deco- rated with shrubbery and trees. It is much frequent- ed by the citizens in the warm season, as well for the purpose of partaking of the refreshing sea breeze, as for enjoying the prospect, which, from this place, in- cludes the harbor with its various shipping. Governor's island, Bedlow's island, and Ellis' island, on each of which are military stations, the shores of New-Jersey and Long Island, with the flourishing town of Brook- lyn, and the numerous country seats in its vicinity. 93 NEW-YORK. Castlf. Garden, connected with the battery by a bridge, is much frequented during the summer evenings. It has a fine promenade, and is often rendered attract- ive by a display of fire works from its enclosure, and other amusements. Broadway, the most splendid street in the city, runs tlirough the centre and extends 3 miles in length and about 80 feet in width. It is the great and fashionable resort for citizens and strangers, and is much crowded during pleasant weather. In this avenue are Grace, Trinity and St. Paul's churches, the Adelphi Hotel, City Hotel, National Hotel, Franklin House, American Ho- tel, Washington Hall, Masonic Hall, and a variety of shops with elegant and extensive assortments of mer- chandize of every description. Opposite Trinity church, Wall-street opens, which contains the Exchange, most of the banks, together with the principal part of the brokers' and insurance offices. At the termination of Wall-street, is the Ton- tine coffee house, an extensive and handsome estabhsh- ment. On passing up Broadway still farther, is Cedar and Courtland streets, both of which lead to the Hudson river, where the steam-boats start for Albany. At the foot of Courtland-street is the ferry to Jersey city. A little further up is Fulton-street, on the corner of which and Broadway stands St. Paul's church. Fulton-street leads to the East river ; along the docks of which are the steam-boats for the New-England ports. A little below are the boats for Newport and Providence — above, for Brideport, Saybrook, Hartford, New-Lon- NEW-YORK. 93 don and Norwich. The New-Haven boats lie at Fly market dock, still farther below. Above St. Paul's church is the Park and City Hall, situated in the centre of the city, the former containing- about 11 acres, which are ornamented with much taste, and enclosed by a substantial iron railing. It furnish- es a cool and fashionable resort for men of business and pleasure, after the fatigue and heat of a summer's day. On the right is the Park Theatre, and on the left Park Place, on the west side of which is Columbia College. The next street above Park Place is Murray, which leads to the Hoboken ferry. Of the public building-s, the most prominent and im- portant is the City Hall, the front of which is built of white mar- ble. It is 216 feet long, 105 feet broad, and, including the attic story, 65 feet high. The rooms for holding the different courts of law are fitted up in a rich and ex- pensive style. The room for holding the mayor's court contains portraits of Washington, of the different gov- ernors of the state, and many of the most celebrated commanders of the army and navy of the United States. The foundation stone of this building was laid in 1803, and the whole finished in 1812, at an expense of $500,- 000. It is one of the most elegant edifices in America, and reflects great credit on the inhabitants for their munificence and taste. The Merchant's Exchange in Wall-street, is also a superb structure of white marble. Its front on Wall- street is 114 feet, and its depth, extending to Garden- street, 150 feet. The main body of the building is two stories high, besides the basement and an attic story. 94 NEW-YORK. About two thirds of the basement is occupied for the post-office, including a spacious corridor for the con- venience of persons visiting the office, with entrances leading thereto from Wall and Exchange streets. The portico of the building, to which a flight of marble steps ascends, is ornamented with Ionic columns 27 feet high. In the centre is the Exchange, of an oval form, 85 feet long, 55 feet wide and 45 feet high, surmounted with a dome, from wliich light is reflected. The whole is imposing, and affords a delightful promenade. From the Exchange are doors and passages leading to a com- mercial reading room and numerous newspaper and other offices within the edifice. From the attic story, a flight of stairs leads to a telegraphic room in the cu- pola, where signals are made, and returned from the telegraph at the Narrows, 7 1-2 miles distant. The height of the cupola above the attic story is 60 feet. The cost of this building, including the ground, was $230,000. It was commenced in 1S24, and completed in 3 years thereafter. The United States Branch Bank, in Wall-street, is an elegant white marble building, 60 feet in front. The lot on which it was erected cost {$40,000. Trinity Church, in Broadway, at the head of Wall street, from its antique appearance, generally attracts the notice of strangers. The first church on this spot was erected in 1696. Originally small, it was enlarged in 1737 ; but during the fire which destroyed the west part of the city in 1776, while the British troops were in possession, it was destroyed, and not re-built till 1788. The present building is of stone, in Gothic style, and much like the old one, except a diminution in size, and NEW-YOUK. 95 has a eteeple 198 feet higli. It contains a chime of bells, the only set in the city, and an excellent organ. The cemetery surrounding it is ancient, and is enclos- ed by a substantial and costly iroa railing. No inter- ments have taken place in this cemetery for some years, owing to a law prohil^iting sepulture within the popu- lous parts of the city ; but it has been ascertained by authentic records kept, that more than one hundred and sixty thousand bodies have been here deposited (exclu- sive of the 7 years of the revolutionary war, when no records were kept) — an amount nearly equal to the present population of the city. Among the illustrious dead who repose in this hallowed spot are the remains of Gen. Hamilton and Capt. Lawrence. The monu- ment over the grave of the former contains the follow- ing inscription : " To the memory of Alexander Hamilton, the corporation of Trinity church has erected this mon- ument in testimony of their respect for the patriot of in- corruptible integrity, the soldier of approved valor, the statesman of consummate wisdom, whose talents and whose virtues will be admired by grateful posterity long after this marble shall have mouldered into dust. He died July 2, 1804, aged 47." Near this monument there is an inscription on a tomb so singularly and aflectingly beautiful, we cannot forbear to record it, and the emotions it awakened in the bosom of a stranger, (whose words we quote.) It is an oblong pile of masonry, surmounted by a slab stone, on which are deeply cut the following words : "MY MOTHER. Tlie trumpet shall soitnd and the dead shall rise." h2 06 NEW-YORK. There are no other letters or characters to be found on the slab or pile. If there is one inscription in the thousand languages that are or have been of earth, fit- ted to retain its sublime meaning through every period of time up to the resurrection morning, it is this. The writer seemed aware that names would be forgotten and titles fade from the memory of the world. He, therefore, engraved the name by which he first knew her who gave him birth, on the stone — and the dearest of all names, that of mother, shall send a thrill through the heart of every one who may ever lean over this mon- umental pile. If any shall wish to know further of her who had a child to engrave her most enduring name up- on a rock, he is sublimely referred to the sounding of the trumpet and the rising of the dead, when he may know all. The monument to the memory of Capt. Lawrence, who was killed during the last war in an engagement between the U. S. frigate Chesapeake, which he com- manded, and the British frigate Shannon, represents a broken column, as emblematical of his premature death. It was erected at the expense of the corporation. St. Paul's Chapel is a superb structure further up Broadway, near the Park. It contains a portico of the Ionic order, consisting of four fluted pillars of brown Btone, supporting a pediment, with a niche in the cen- tre containing a statue of St. Paul. Under the portico is a handsome monument erected by order of congress to the memory of Gen. Montgomery, who fell at the storming of Quebec in 1775, and whose remains were brought to New- York and interred beneath the monu- ment in 1820. The spire of this church is 234 feet high ; NEW-TOR K. 07 and the whole building is esteemed one of the best epo* cimens of architecture in the city. In the church yard adjoining is an elegant monument, recently erected to the memory of Thomas Addis Emmet, an eminent counsellor at law, and brother of the unfortunate Irish orator, Robert Emmet. The plinth of the monument is one entire block, 7 feet square and 12 inches thick. The Egyptian obelisk, standing on its base, is also in a single piece, and is rising of thirty two feet high. The face towards Broadway is embeUished with the Ameri- can eagle, sheltering a harp unstrung, with a medallion likeness of Emmet, and with two clasped hands, hav- ing stars around one wrist and shamrocks around the other. On the north side is a Latin and on the south an Irish inscription. St. John's Chapel, in Varick street, opposite Hud- son Square, is an elegant edifice, and the most expen- sive in the city, having cost more than $200,000. Ita spire is 240 feet in height. St. Patrick's Cathedral, a Roman Catholic church, in Mott street, is the largest religious edifice in New- York. It is built of stone, is 120 feet long, 80 feet wide, and is a conspicuous object in approaching the city from the east. There are nearly 100 other churches in the city, ma- ny of which were erected at a very considerable ex- pense, and are an ornament to the sections of the city in which they stand. Columbia College, above the City Hall, was char- tered in 1750 under the name of King's College. The edifice and grounds attached are extensive, and are ad- vantageously and handsomely located. The college 98 NEW-YORK. contains a chapel, lecture room?, hall, library, musoum, and an extensive philosophical and astronomical appa- ratus. The Hon. William A. Duer, a gentleman of distinguished talents and learning, has been recently appointed president of the institution. The New- York Society Library, in Nassau street, was commenced in 1740, and at the commencement of the revolution contained 3000 volumes, which were de- stroyed or taken away by the British troops. It was re-established in 1789, and now consists of about 20,000 volumes, many of which are very rare and valuable. The Athexeum, Broadway, corner of Pine street, contains a reading room, which is open daily, except Sundays. The New- York Institution is in therear of the City Hall. Its apartments are occupied by the Literary and Philosophical Society, the Historical Society, the Amer- ican Academy of Fine Arts, the Lyceum of Natural History, the American Museum, and the Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb. The Historical Society has a li- brary of 10,000 volumes, embracing many valuable works. Near the institution are the Savings Bank and Pan- orama Rotunda ; and a little further up Broadway, the New- York Hospital. The annual expenditure in this institution is about $40,000, and the annual number of patients from 140 to 180. The Park Theatre is a spacious edifice, adjoining the Park. It was originally built in 1798, at an expense of $179,000, was destroyed by fire in 1820, and re-built the following year. It is 80 feet long, 165 deep, and 55 NEW-YOBK. 99 high, and has generally been more liberally patronized than any other theatre in the city. The New-York Theatre, in the Bowery, displays much architectural beauty, and, among the modern or- naments of the city, stands pre-eminent. It has a front of 75 feet, is 175 feet deep, and 50 feet high. It enjoys a handsome patronage. Besides these places of amusement, there is a the- atre in Chatham street, and a circus in Broadway, be- tween Canal and Grand streets. PRINCIPAL HOTELS. The Adelphi Hotel, corner of Beaver street and Broadway, kept by Mr. John Ford, one of the propri- etors of the U. S. Hotel at Saratoga Springs, is an el- egant establishment, built of brick, and stuccoed. Its situation is in a most delightful part of the city, front- ing the Bowling Green and in full view of the Battery and harbor. It is six stories high, possesses spacious and airy accommodations, and contains several private parlors on the English plan, richly furnished, and ren- dered peculiarly desirable from the fine views present- ed, and the refreshing breeze which is experienced from the water. The Mansion House, 39 Broadway, is a commodi- ous establishment, pleasantly located, and enjoys a handsome patronage of genteel company. The City Hotel, a few doors north of Trinity church in Broadway, kept by Mr. Jennings, is an old and high- ly respectable establishment, and one of the most ex- tensive in the city, containing more than 100 parlors 100 NEW-YORK. and lodging rooms, (many of them designed for private families) besides an assembly room, principally used for concerts. The rooms are furnished in the best style, and the house, from its central location and good accommodations, has always enjoyed an extensive pat- ronage.* The National Hotel, kept by Messrs. Underwood & Curtis, nearly opposite the City Hotel, is a large and excellent house, well furnished, and well supported. Franklin House, Broadway, corner of Day street, kept by Mr. Seymour, though not so extensive as some of the other establishments, is pleasantly located, fur- nished in good style, and enjoys a handsome patronage. The American Hotel is delightfully situated, front- ing the Park in Broadway, and is among the most fa- vored establishments in the city. It is five stories high, and extends on Barclay street to the college of Physi- cians and Surgeons. Its public and private parlours and lodging rooms, which are numerous, are furnished in the best style, and it is extensively patronized by a fashionable and respectable company. The Washington Hall is another extensive estab- lishment in Broadway, corner of Reed street, hand- somely fitted up and possessing excellent accommoda- tions. Besides these are Park Place House, Broadway, opposite the Park ; Pearl-Street House, Nos. 86 and 88, Pearl street ; Niblo's Bank Coffee-House in Pine * Several of the principal bookstores and libraries are in this part of Broadway. NEW-YORK. !0l Street ; Tontine Coffee-House, corner of Wall and Water streets ; Tammany Hall, corner of Nassau and Frankfort streets, and several others of respectability, an enumeration of which will not be deemed necessary in this work. Private Boarding-Houses. The following are among the genteel and respectable private boarding- houses in Broadway, many of which are extensive, and fitted up in a style not inferior to the best hotels : M'ln- tyre's, No. 5 ; Mrs. Baker's, No. 13; Mrs. Wood's, No. 24 ; Mrs. Chapman's, No. 33 ; Mrs. Casati's, No. 35 ; Street's, No. 36 ; Mrs. W. C. Barker's, No. 40 ; Mrs. Keese's, No. 52 ; Pearcy's, No. 5Q ; Mrs. Miller's, No. 57 ; Mrs. Helme's, No. 58 ; Mrs. Mann's, No. 61 ; Mrs. Southart's, No. 65 ; Storer's, No. 66 ; Mrs. Waldron's, No. 126 ; Mrs. Rowland's, No. 140 ; Miss Wade's, No. 110. The prices at these houses vary from $1 to $2 per day, and from $5 to $10 per week. In point of population, this city is the first in the United States, containing probably not less than 190,- 000 inhabitants, and in respect of trade it is now and will probably continue the first commercial metropolis in America. Though it cannot vie with Philadelphia, in point of beauty and regularity. New- York exhibits an air of novelty and grandeur very imposing to a stranger. Its ever bustling streets and crowded wharves, indicate an uncommon spirit of commercial enterprize. Its local situation embraces every advan- tage for commerce ; and the canals, by opening an easy communication between the fertile regions of the west and north and the city of New-York, have pro- duced an astonishing change in its growth and prosper- 102 NEW-YOBK. ity. At no very distant period, New-York, with all its natural and artificial advantages, will probably become the greatest commercial metropolis in the world. The New-York and Liverpool Packets, which are fine vessels and elegantly furnished, sail from New- York, on the 1st, 8th, 16th, and 24th of every month ; and in returning, leave Liverpool on the same days. There are 20 ships in this line. Passage in the cabin 30 guineas, including beds, bedding, wine, and stores of every description. The New- York and London Packets, touching at Cowes, sail from New- York on the 1st and 16th of ev- ery month ; and in returning, leave London on the 10th and 25th of each month. There are 8 ships in this hne. Passage to and from London, the same as to and from Liverpool, with similar accommodations. New- York and Havre (France) Packets, sail from New- York on the 1st and 15th of each month ; and from Havre on the same days. There are 12 sliips in this line. Passage to or from Havre, 140 dollars, in- cluding the same accommodations as in the London and Liverpool packets. Packets also sail from New-York for Savannah, once in each week — office 181 Front street ; for CharlestoHf every Thursday — office at the same place ; for J^eio-Or- leans, on the 1st and 15th of each month — office 62 South street ; and for Boston, every Saturday. PUBLIC COACHES. Strangers visiting New- York are Uable to suffer from exorbitant exactions for coach hire. To guard against this, the corporation have licensed an adequate num- NEW- YORK. 103 ber of hackmen, who may be found at several conven- ient stands in the city, each coach being numbered. The rules and regulations to which they are subjected, can be found in the " Picture of New- York and Stran- ger's Guide,"* a very useful and valuable directory, which should be in the hands of visitants. EXCURSIONS. Among the numerous places of fashionable resort in the vicinity of New- York, are Governor's, Bedlow's and Staten Islands, within the harbor ; Orange Springs, near Newark, Passaic Falls, Schooley's Mountain, Long Branch, Hoboken and Weehawk, in New-Jersey, on the west ; the tour of Long-Island, on the east ; and Manhattan-Island, on the north. The Passaic Falls are in Patterson, N. J. 22 miles north-west of New- York. The perpendicular pitch is 70 feet into a narow and rocky chasm.f The scenery is wild and imposing ; and the falls are among the geat- est natural curiosities of this country. The Morris ca- nal, noticed at page 83, passes near them. Schooly^s Mountain, 50 miles west of New- York, was noticed at page 85. Long Branch, is 30 miles south of New- York, on the eastern shore of New-Jersey, and on the immediate ♦Published by Mr. A. T. Goodrich, No. 124 Broad- way, who keeps an excellent circulating-Ubrary and map establishment. ■fit was at this place that the celebrated Sam Patch commenced his jumping career, which finally ter- minated at the falls on the Genesee river at Rochester. 104 BROOKLYN. bank of the Atlantic ocean, an extensive view of which is here obtained. A bathing establishment is erected, and the bank, which is elevated to a height of 30 or 40 feet for several miles, affords a beautiful promenade. Sandy Hook and Neversink can be visited on this route, the heights of the latter affording an extensive view of the marine coast. Hoboken and Weehawk are on the west side of the Hudson river, opposite the northern parts of New- York, near which is the Hoboken duelling ground^ which cannot be easily approached, except in a boat. A monument was here erected some years since to the memory of Gen. Hamilton : but it has since been re- moved. Govern(yr''s and Bedlow^s Islands are usually approach- ed only in row boats, and are less frequented on that account. Staten Island, south of the city, was noticed at page 90. Brooklyn, (on Long-Island,) directly opposite New- York, from which it is separated by the East river, is usually reached by steam-boats which are constantly plying between the foot of Fulton street and that vil- lage. It is a large town, having a population of about 15,000, and witliin a few years has arisen to much im- portance. Its contiguity to New- York, and the facil- ities afforded for communicating between the two pla- ces, have induced many merchants and men of busi- ness to select it as a place of residence in preference to the upper parts of the city. The village also contains several elegant country seats and public gardens. Those on the bank contiguous to the East river, from their elevated situation, overlooking the bay of New- MANHATTAN ISLAND, 106 York, and commanding a view of a great part of the city, are peculiarly attractive and romantic. North- eastwardly of the village, on a tract of land called the Wallabout, is a U. S. navy yard, where are erected a house for the commandant, several spacious ware-hous- es, and an immense wooden edifice, under which the largest ships of war are built. The steam frigate Ful- ton, which lay near the navy yard, and which was an object of attraction, was blown up at this place in 1829, occasioning the loss of several lives. Brooklyn is intimately connected with important events of the revolution, and in its vicinity are pointed out some remaining vestiges of fortifications and mil- itary works erected during that eventful period. The road to Flatbush (4 miles east) crosses the ground on which the battle of the 27th July, 1776, was fought, which resulted in a severe loss to the An>ericans and the capture of Generals Sullivan and Sterhng. The marshes in which so many lives were lost in retreating from the British army, are south of this. From Brooklyn to Jamaica, a pleasant village, and the capitol of the county of Queens, is 12 miles ; and from thence to Rockaway, bordering on the Atlantic, is 9 miles farther. The roads to this place being excellent, it is much resorted to in the summer months, A fine view of the ocean is obtained, which, from its unceas- ing roar and turbulence, is rendered unusually sublime. Mayihattan Islmid, on which New- York is located, is 15 miles long, and on an average one and a half broad ; the Hudson river bounding it on the west, the Harlaem river on the north, the East river on the east, and the bay on the south. A tour of the island can he per- formed in a few hours, and will be found to be highly 106 HURL GATE. diversified and interesting. Passing up on the west side, the Asylum for the Insane, on very elevated ground about 7 miles from the city, the heights of Fort Washington, Harlsem and Kingsbridge, are visited ; and in returning on the east side, Hurl Gate, the Aims- House and House of Refuge. Hurl Gate is a narrow and apparently a dangerous strait in the East river, in which, at low water, there are numerous wliirlpools or currents, occasioned by huge masses of rock projecting in various places, giv- ing to the river only a very contracted passage. At high water, these masses are more or less concealed, and the current is in a degree unruffled. Losses of vessels were formerly experienced here ; but none have been known in some years. To avoid the dangers, however, incident to the navigation, a project has been broached of opening a ship canal between Pot and Hallet's Coves. A survey of the proposed route has been made, and the result of the examination is, that the length of the canal, to secure a sufficient depth of wa- ter in the coves, will be 2439 running feet, viz. 470 of excavation below high water, 1369 of high upland with indication of rock, and 600 of salt marsh. As the tide rises and falls in Hallet's Cove several minutes sooner than in the Pot, (Hurl Gate,) it would be ne- cessary to have two pairs or gates at each extremity. A draw-bridge would also be necessary, to accommo- date the ferry road which communicates from the Point at Hallet's Cove with the New- York shore, at the foot of 87th-street. The maximum cost is rated at $162,- 152 for the entire completion of a canal 137 feet in width at high water on the surface, 80 at bottom, and DISCOVERY OF THE HUDSON. 107 28 in depth, which would be Bufficiently capacious for a line of battle ship. It is, however, believed that a ship canal 17 feet deep at high water, 82 feet wide between the banks, and 40 at bottom, would be preferable ; in which case the cost of completion has been estimated at $54,548. DISCOVERY OF THE HUDSON. From the collections of the New- York Historical So- ciety, we are enabled to glean the following sketch of the first discovery of the Hudson river ; which may not be uninteresting to tourists about to embark on its wa- ters : John D. Verrazzano, a Florentine, in the service of Francis I. of France, had been entrusted with the com- mand of four ships, in cruising against the Spaniards. These vessels being separated in a storm, the com- mander resolved, with one of them, to undertake a voyage for the discovery of new countries. About the middle of March, 1554, he accordingly arrived on the American coast, and after having visited the coasts of North- Carolina and Georgia, he directed his course northward, and entered the harbor of the present city of New-York. He describes the islands (Staten, Man- hattan, &c.) as " fruitful and pleasant, full of hie and broad trees, among the which islands any navie may ride safe, without any feare of tempest or other dan- ger." He stayed in the harbor about 15 days. Nearly a century elapsed before any farther discove- ries were made on this part of the continent. It was reserved for Henry Hudson to make the first voyage up the Hudson river. After having visited several har- i2 109 DISCOVERY OF THE HUDSON. bors, he entered the strait now called the Narrows on the 6th September, 1609. A boat was manned and des- patched by him to explore what appeared to be a river. In this service the boat's crew were engaged in the bay and adjacent waters during the day. On their way back to the ship, they were attacked by the natives in two canoes. A skirmish ensued, in which one of Hudson's men, named Colman, was killed by an arrow which struck him in the throat, and two more wounded. The next day the remains of Colman were interred on a point of land not far from the ship ; which, from that circumstance, received the name of Colman's Point, and which was probably the same that is now called Sandy Hook. On the 12th, Hudson first entered the river which bears his name, and sailed up about two leagues. He was visited by great numbers of the natives, who brought him Indian corn, tobacco, beans and oysters in great abundance. They had pipes of yellow copper, in which they smoked ; and earthen pots, in which they dressed their food. From the 12th to the 22d September, Hudson was employed in ascending the river. He describes it as abounding with great stores of salmon. In his passage he was visited by many of the natives, but always in an amicable manner. He sailed up, as is supposed, a little above where the city of Hudson now stands ; be- yond which be himself never ascended. From this place he despatched a boat, (not considering it safe to proceed farther with his vessel,) manned with five hands, which ascended the river, it is supposed, as far as where the city of Albany now stands?. \ DISCOVERY OF THE HUDSON. 109 During this excursion, Hudson gave to some of the Indians ardent spirits for the purpose of making an ex- periment on their tempers. He says they all became merry ; but only one was completely intoxicated. A tradition still exists among the six nations, that a scene of intoxication occurred when the first ship arrived ; having reference, doubtless, to this event. Hudson began to descend the river on the 23d of September, having frequent intercourse with the Indi- ans on his way down, from whom he experienced kind treatment, until he descended below the Highlands. Here they attempted to rob the ship, and repeatedly shot at the crew. He directed several muskets to be discharged at them, which killed ten or twelve. These conflicts occurred frequently during the 1st and 2d of October ; but none of the ship's crew were injured. On the 4th of October, one month from the time he first landed at Sandy Hook, he sailed out of the river and proceeded to sea, reaching England the 7th of No- vember following. Hudson did not give his own name to the river he discovered. It was called by the Iroquois Indians, Cahohatatea ; by the Mohiccans, Mahakaneghtuc, and 'sometimes Shatemuck. Hudson styled it the " Great River," or the " Great River of the Mountains." The name of its discoverer, however, was given to it soon afterwards. Hudson, in a subsequent voyage for the East India Company, became a prey to the mutiny of his men in the bay which bears his name. He was forcibly put into a boat with his son and seven others, who were mostly invalids, and, in this manner, inhumanly aban- doned. They were never heard of more. 1 10 FROM NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. FROM NEW-YORK TO ALBANY, A distance, by water, of 144 miles, and by land, measuring between the respective post-offices, of 160 miles, a communication is alternately kept up by a line of stages in the winter season, and by steam-boats dur- ing the absence of the ice in the Hudson. The mo- nopoly which formerly existed in favor of the North River Steam-boat Company, has, by a decision of the United States Court, been done away ; the conse- quence of which has been to multiply the number of opposition steam-boats upon the Hudson, and to reduce the price of fare, which, at present, including board, is not over $3 to Albany, and in some of the boats not more than ^I. The following is a table of distances between the two places : DISTAXCE BY WATER FROM O o a o C3 O "H. 12; < New- York, 144 Wehawken, 6 6 138 Palisadoes, southern termination, .. . 2 8 136 Fort Washington, 4 12 132 Tappan Bay, southern extremity, .. , 12 24 120 SingSinsf, 8 32 112 Haverstraw Bay, 2 34 110 Stoney Point 5 39 105 Terplank's Point, 1 40 104 Horse Race, (Highlands,) 2 42 102 Anthony's Nose, 3 45 99 West Point, 5 50 94 FROM NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. U 1 DISTANCE BY WATER FROM o o s S i^ ,y ;S n Pollopel Island, 6 56 88 Newburgh, 4 60 84 Milton, 11 71 73 Poughkeepsie, 4 75 68 Hyde Park, 5 80 63 Rhinebeck, 10 90 53 Redhook, lower landing, 7 97 46 Redhook, upper do 3 100 43 Catskill, 11 111 32 Hudson, 5 116 27 Coxackie, 8 124 19 Kinderhook, 1 125 18 New Baltimore, 5 130 13 Schodack, 4 134 9 Albany, 10 144 Boats leave New- York and Albany at 6 and 10 o'clock A. M. and 5 P. M., and the trip is usually per- formed in from 12 to 14 hours. An early morning boat will prove the most interesting to those who have nev- er performed the route by day-light ; as it will afford an opportunity of witnessing the rich scenery and nu- merous villages and country seats between the two cities. All the boats stop at the principal places on the river for the purpose of landing and receiving passengers. Till within two or three years, accidents were not un- common at the landing places, owing to the continued motion of the boat ; but by a late law, captains and 1 12 PASSAGE OF THE HUDSON. | i masters are required to stop their boats, whenever pas- Bengers are landed or received on board. The spirit of accommodation which is manifested in all the boats, is owing probably to the rivalship exist- ing between them. Passengers are well entertained, and every attention is shewn that can contribute to their comfort and convenience. THE PASSAGE OF THE HUDSON. Besides the pleasure of a steam-boat passage, the Hudson river presents to the tourist a variety of natu- ral scenery which it will be difficult to find elsewhere in a journey of the same extent. To the gratification de- rived from a prospect of the beautiful and sublime ob- jects of nature, the effect of the most striking contrast is added, to render the scene truly picturesque and en- chanting. On the one hand are seen summits, crown- ed with forests, apparently impenetrable to the foot- steps of cultivation, and on the other, beautiful and ex- tensive lawns, checkered with the abodes of husband- ry, and glowing in all the rich verdure of summer; while in the same circumstances of vision may be seen the fading view of some town or city, and in perspec- tive a perpetual opening scenery of forests and cultiva- tion, plains and mountains, towns and villages, impart- ing to the beholder all the charms of novelty, with the highest emotions of the sublime. Weehawken, about 6 miles from the city, on the west side of the river, is pointed out to the traveller as the ground on which Gen. Hamilton fell in a duel with Col. Burr. It is a small spot on the margin of the riv- er, with huge rocks on three sides, effectually screen- THE PALISADOES. 113 ing it from the observation of man, except from the riv- er ; and probably has, for that cause, been selected as a suitable place for settling affairs of honor. Till with- in a few years, it contained a monument erected to the memory of Gen. Hamilton by the St. Andrews society ; but it has been removed. His body was deposited in the ground attached to Trinity church in the city, where there is a handsome monument, enclosed in an iron raihng. (See pages 95 and 104.) The Palisadoes, which make their first appearance on the Hudson, about 8 miles from New- York, are a range of rocks, from 20 to 550 feet in height, and ex- tend from thence to Tappan, a distance of about 20 miles. In some places they rise almost perpendicular- ly from the shore, and form, for several miles in extent, a sohd wall of rock, diversified only by an occasional fishing hut on the beach at their base, or wood slides down their sides, and sometimes by an interval of a few acres of arable land, affording an opening for a land- ing place and a steep road leading to their top. On the opposite side of the river the land is varied by hill and dale, cultivated fields and woods, with cottages and country seats. The land in this place, however, back from the river, rises in rocky hills, and becomes more precipitous as you advance into Westchester county. Twelve miles from New- York, the boat passes the site of Fort Lee, on the brow of the Palisadoes, at the height of 300 feet above the river ; nearly opposite to which, on a high hill on the east side of the river, stood Fort Washington. In October, 1776, after the 114 TARRYTOWN. evacuation of New- York by the American troops, fol- lowed the battle of White Plains, by which name is known the high ground on the east, between the Hud- son river and the Sound above Kingsbridge, whence Washington retreated to Peekskill. Fort Washington was then taken by the Hessians and British, and the garrison, composed of 2600 militia and regular troops, surrendered prisoners of war. The surrender of Fort Lee followed soon after Washington crossed the Hud- son. There was also on the east side another fort, called Independence. Twenty four miles above New- York the river ex- pands and forms what is called Tafpan Bay. The lit- tle village of Tappan, a place of much note during An- dre's and Arnold's conspiracy, is situated on its western shore. The spot of Andre's grave is still pointed out near this village, though his remains, a few years since, were conveyed to England, by order of the British gov- ernment. This bay is from 2 to 5 miles wide, and 8 miles long, terminating at Teller's Point. About a mile above Tappan village, on the eastern shore, is the village of Tarrytown, where Andre was captured by Paulding, Van Wart and Williams, the American militia-men. Paulding died some years ago, and a monument was erected over his grave by the cor- poration of New- York. Van Wart died more recently, and a monument to his memory has been erected by the citizens of Westchester county. It is a neat struc- ture of white marble, consisting of a base of three as- cending steps, and a pedestal upon which stands an ob- ehsk ; in all being from fifteen to eighteen feet high. It stands by the road side, in a retired valley in the Paulding's monument. 115 town of Greensburgh, about three miles east of Tarry- town. A little creek winds its way through the valley, bending round to the north in the course of a few miles, until it leaps into the bosom of the Hudson at Yonkers. The following inscriptions are copied from the pedestal of the monument : ox THE NORTH SIDE. " Here repose the mortal remains of ISAAC VAN WART, An elder of Greensburgh church, who died on the 23d of May, 1828, in the 69th year of his age. Having lived the life, he died the death of a christian." ON THE SOUTH SIDE. « FIDELITY. "On the 23d of September, 1780, Isaac Van Wart, accompanied by John Paulding and David Williams, all farmers of the county of Westchester, intercepted Maj. Andre, on his return from the American lines in the character of a spy ; and, notwithstanding the large bribes offered them for his release, nobly disdained to sacrifice their country for gold — secured and carried him to the commanding officer of the district, whereby the dangerous and traitorous conspiracy of Arnold was brought to light — the insidious designs of the enemy baffled — the American army saved — and our beloved country, now free and independent, rescued from most imminent peril." ON THE east side. " VINCIT AMOR PATRIiE. " Nearly half a century before this monument was built, the conscript fathers of America had, in the sen- ate chamber, voted that Isaac Van Wart was a faith- K 116 THE HIGHLANDS. fill patriot — one in whom the love of country was hv- vincible — and this tomb bears testimony that the rec- ord 13 true.** ON THE WEST SIDE. •* The citizens of the county of Westchester erected this tomb in testimony of the high sense they entertain- ed for the virtuous and patriotic conduct of their fellow citizen, and as a memorial sacred to public gratitude." Near the northern extremity of Tappan Bay, on the eastern shore, is the Sing Sing state prison. It com- prises 800 dormitaries or solitary cells, is 4 stories high, and occupies about 50 by 500 feet of ground. From each end of the main building, which stands parallel with the river, in a westerly direction, are carried out wings, 300 feet in extent, forming a spacious inner yard open only to the river. The wings, composed of marble, are constructed for workshops, a chapel, kitch- en, hospital, &c. The chapel is of sufficient dimensions to hold 900 persons. The keeper's house, on the south eastern end of the main building, is also constructed of marble. The number of convicts in the prison in 1829, was about 600. Its erection was commenced in 1825 j and its cost is estimated at rising of ^200,000* Haverstraw Bay commences 34 miles from New- York, and terminates at Stoney and Verplanck's Points • being about 6 miles in length, and from 2 to 4 in width. Haverstraw village is on the west side of this bay. The Highlands, or Fishkill Mountains, which first appear about 40 miles from New- York, will attract no- tice, not only from their grandeur and sublimity, but al- so from their association with some of the most impor- THE HIGHLANDS. 117 tant events of the revolution. This chain of mountains is about 16 miles in width, and extends along both sides of the Hudson, to the distance of 20 miles. The height of the principal has been estimated at 1565 feet. Ac- cording to the theory of Doctor Mitchell, this thick and solid barrier seems in ancient days to have impeded the course of the water, and to have raised a lake high enough to cover all the country to Quaker Hill and the Laconick Mountains on the east, and to Shawangunk and the Catskill Moimtains on the west ; extending to the Little Falls of the Mohawk, and to Hadley Falls on the Hudson — but by some convulsion of nature, the mountain chain has been broken, and the rushing wa- ters found their way to the now New- York bay. At the entrance of the Highlands, on the south, is the eito of an old fort on Verpiank's Point, opposite to which stood the fort of Stoney Point, which was taken from Gen. Wayne in 1778, and re-taken by him the same year. About two miles north of this, what is termed the Horse Race commences. This consists of an angle in tho river, which, for a little more than a mile, takes an east- wardly direction, contracted to a very narrow space within bold and rocky mountains ; one of which, An- thony's Nose, is 1228 feet high, and is opposite the mouth of Montgomery creek, overlooking Forts Mont- gomery and Chnton. These forts, under command of Gen. Putnam, were captured by the British troops un- der Sir Henry Clinton in 1777, when on his way to co- operate with Gen. Burgoyne, the news of whose surren- der, however, reached Sir Henry when he had proceed- ed as far as Kingston, 50 miles higher up, and changed his advance into a retreat. Bloody Pond, so called, 118 WEST POINT. from its being the place in which the bodies of the slain were thrown after the defences of these forts, is in the rear of Fort Clinton. West Point, one of the most impregnable posts dur- ing the revolutionary war, is situated on the west side of the Hudson, near the entrance of the High- lands on the north. It formed one of the most im- portant fastnesses of the American army during the eight years contest with the British nation ; and the consequence attached to it, in a military point of view, was evinced by the repeated but unsuccessful efforts of the enemy to obtain it. It was here that Arnold con- ceived the horrid purpose of bartering his country for gold. This conspiracy, hoAvever, which aimed a death blow at liberty in the western hemisphere, resulted on- ly in the universal contempt and ignominy of Arnold, and in the lamented death of the unfortunate Andre. There are here at present a number of dwelling-houses, and a military academy, built on the plain which forms the bank of the river, 18S feet in height, to which a road ascends on the north side of the point. In the back ground, and elevated on a mass of rocks 598 feet in height, is the site of Fort Putnam. Silence and decay now mark the spot of this once formidable fortress. Its mouldering ruins, however, convey a pretty correct idea of the impregnable barrier its ramparts once pre- sented to the enemies of freedom. The Military Academy here established by con- gress, was first oi-ganized under the direction of the late Gen. Williams, in 1802. Of the number of applicants for admission to this institution, a preference is usually J WEST POINT. 119 given, first, to the song of officers of the revolution ; and secondly, to the sons of deceased officers of the late war. None are admitted under the age of 14 years, nor above the age 22. The number of cadets is limited to 250, each of whom costs the government $336 annu- ally ; and the whole establishment is maintained at an annual expense of $115,000. In addition to the va- rious sciences which are taught here, the cadets are instmcted in all the practical minutioe of tactics ; com- prehending the lowest duties of the private soldier, as well as the highest duties of the officer. They are al- so required to encamp for 6 or 8 weeks in a year ; dur- ing which time they are instructed in the manner ol pitching and striking tents, in the various infantry ev- olutions, and in all the details of the camp. The following table, shewing the number of cadets, who had entered and left this academy from its organi- zation to Sept. 2, 1823, may not be uninteresting to many of the readers of these pages : ta a n3 o • c- TS T) tn p C ej p fcf; "o 'O O o a: O) ALBANY. 186 dwellings and a post offica The village of Kinder- hook is situated 5 miles east. Five miles further north, is the village of New-Baltimore ; thence to Coey- mans, 2 miles — thence to Schodac village,^ 2 miles— thence to Castleton landing, 2 miles — thence to Alba- ny 8 miles. ALBANY Is the capital of the state of New- York, and in point of wealth, population, trade and resources, is the sec- ond city in the state, and the sixth or seventh in the Union. It is situated on the west side of the Hudson river, and near the head of tide water. It was settled in 1612 ; and next to Jamestown in Virginia, is the oldest settlement in the U. S. In 1614, a small fort and trading house were built by the Dutch on an isl- and half a mile below the scite of the present city ; and soon aftewards fort Orange where the city now stands. The place was first called Aurania ; then Beverwyck till 1625 ; then Fort Orange till 1647, and Williamstadt till 1664. For a long time after its foundation it was enclosed with palisadoes or pickets, as a defence against the Indians, who were then numerous and powerful in its vicinity. Its charter was granted in the year 1686, and embraced an area of 7160 acres. A great propor- tion of its soil is sandy and unproductive, and under no system of useful cultivation. Though the first appearance of this city is not prepossessing to a stranger, still the taste which has been displayed in the construction of its public and private buildings — the constant din of commercial bu- siness which assails the ear of the traveller — the ter- mination of the Erie canal at this place, and many 136 ALBANY. Other atiendant circumstances, render Albany an im- portant and interesting spot. The town is divided into five wards, and contains many superb and elegant buildings. The principal streets are Market, Pearl, and State streets. The two former run parallel with the river, and the latter is a spacious one, extending from the Capitol to the Hud- son, nearly east and west. Besides these, there are many other streets, less considerable in extent, but populous, and crowded with shops and stores. The Capitol, which contains the legislative halls, the common council chamber of the corporation, the supreme and chancery court rooms of the state, the county clerk's office, the state library, and other apartments for public business, stands at the head of State street, on an elevation of 130 feet abovje the level of the river. It is a substantial stone edifice, erected at the expense of $120,000; of which sum, $34,000 was paid by the corporation of the city. It is 115 feet in length, 90 in breadth, and is 50 high, consisting of two stories, and a basement of 10 feet. The east front is adorned with a portico of the Ionic order, having 4 magnificent columns, 3 feet 8 inches in diameter, and 33 feet in height. In the senate and assembly cham- bers and in the room used for holding the court of chancery are full length portraits of Washington, of the various executives who have administered the gov- ernment of the state, and of Abraham Van Vechten, Esq. an eminent counsellor at law residing in Albany. There is also in the senate chnmber a good bust of Doct. Franklin. ALBANY. 137 The Public Square, on the S. W. of which etanda the Capitol, is arranged in the style of a park, and has several delightful walks and avenues. North of the Capitol, stands the Academy, the most elegantly constructed and executed building in the city. It cost about $92,000 exclusive of the lot on which it is erected, and some donations. It is built of free stone, 3 stories in height, and 90 feet in front. It is one of the most flourishing institutions in the state ; has 5 teachers and about 140 students. The State Hall, for the offices of the secretary of state, comptroller, treasurer, surveyor-general, attor- ney-general, and clerk of the supreme court, is sit- uated on the south side of State-street, nearly equi- distant from the Capitol and the Albany, Farmers' and Mechanics' Banks ; both of which stand at the foot of State-street, and are elegant white marble edifices. There are in this city 4 banks and 14 houses for public worship. Also a large brick building for the Lancas- ter school, a theatre in South Pearl street, an athe- neum, and an arsenal in North Market street. The museum is in South Market street, and is one of the best in the country. The American Hotel, kept by Mr. Drake in State street, about equi-distant from the capitol and the foot of the street, is one of the best public houses in the Union. The building is 5 stories high, besides the base, presenting an exterior of stucco work, and is cal- culated to accommodate from 80 to 100 guests. Its parlours, dining and lodging-rooms are spacious and richly furnished ; and every thing connected with the 138 ALBANY* house i8 calculated to render it an elegant and desir* able resting place for a stranger. The keeper, Mr. Drake, was a former proprietor of Congress Hall al Saratoga Springs, at which place he gained much c^ lebrity for his skill and taste as a conductor of an ex- tensive public establishment. The other principal hotels are, the Mansion Houses and City Hotel in North Market street, the State Street House in State street, Cruttenden's, near the Capitol, and the Eagle Tavern in South Market street ; which are furnished and kept in superior style, reflecting equal credit upon the city and the proprietors. During the sessions of the New- York legislature, Albany is crowded with strangers, and contains much of the legal talent and learning of the state. The city is supplied with water from a distance of 3 miles. It is eligibly situated for trade, being the great thorough fare for the northern and western sections of the state. The Albany Basin, where the waters of the canal unite with the Hudson, consists of a part of the river included between the shore and an artificial pier erect- ed 80 feet in width and 4,300 feet in length. The pier contains about 8 acres, and is connected with the city by draw bridges. It is a grand and stupendous work, on which spacious and extensive stores have been erected, and where an immense quantity of lumber and other articles of trade are deposited. Is original cost was {5130,000, and the difll^rent lots were sold at pub- lic auction at a considerable advance. The basin cov- ers a surface of 32 acres. ALDAN Y. 139 A mineral spring was discovered in Albany a few years since, by boring through a slate rock to the depth of 500 feet. The partners in this, however, hav- ing disagreed, one of them, (McCulloch, a Scotchman) commenced boring on his own account, in the same neighborhood, and at the depth of 617 feet struck upon another, much superior in its qualities, and approach- ing more nearly to the Congress Spring at Saratoga than any other in the United States. It contains rather more muriate of soda, and is an active carthartic. Its taste is much more disagreeable than the Congress Spring, which is attributed to the iron contained in it. The gas escaping from it is highly combustible, burning furiously on the application of a burning paper to the water when running from the vent. The spring is en- closed in a handsome garden, and is a place of fashion- able resort for citizens and strangers. The environs of Albany are pleasant, affording many delightful walks and rides, and the adjacent cities of Troy and Schenectady, and the villages of Lansing*- burgh and Waterford, the Cohoes Falls, the Shaker settlement at Niskayuna, &c. furnish points for short and interesting excursions. But perhaps nothing in the vicinity of Albany will afford more pleasure to the tourist, than a visit to the highly cultivated Farm of J. Buell, Esq.* about 2 miles west of the capitol on the Cherry Valley turnpike. This farm, con- sisting of 80 acres, has been wholly reclaimed from commons since 1818, and is now under profitable cul- Formerly editor of the Albany Argus. M I 140 ALBANY. tivation. Mr. B. possessed the first requisite for im- provement — o consciousness of the icant of knowledge in his neto employment. Ho diligently sought for this knowledge In the practice of the best farmers, and in the study of the sciences upon which agriculture is based ; directing and superintending himself the labors of his farm. His improvements consist in selecting the best implements adapted to his soil — in substituting fallow crops for naked fallows — in extensively and suc- cessfully cultivating the Swedish and common turnip as a second crop, after clover and small grains — in in- troducing new and valuable grasses — in the cultiva- tion of live fences, which he has growing of the white European thorn, of the native thorn of our woods, and of the three thorncd or honey locust — and in the econ- omy and application of ordinary, and the use of new manures. His object has been to grow only good crops, and these with the least expense. In 1827, he sold from 64 acres in tillage and grass, under farm cul- ture, produce to the amount of more than $1500, ex- clusive of the consumption of a large family. His kitchen and flower gardens, abounding in the finest native and foreign fruits, ornamental trees, shrubs and flowers, will also be visited with interest. Upon the same farm is the Albany Nursery, which is under the management of Messrs. Buell & Wilson. It already covers 10 or 12 acres, and is extended annually, embracing not only the most choice American fruits and ornamental plants, but also the finer varieties of France, Germany, Eng- land, &c. many of which have been received from the London Horticultural Society, of which Mr. B. was SHAKER SETTLEMENT. 141 elected a corresponding member in 1824. Attached to this estabUshment is a green house, containing an ex- tensive collection of beautiful exotics, among which are several varieties of the splendid Cornelia or Japan rose, and other rare Asiatic plants. There are few establishments of the kind, indeed, in the country, pos- sessing more interest, or entitling their proprietors to greater commendation. The Shaker settlement at Niskayuna, is 8 miles north-west of Albany. A visit to these singular people is well deserving the attention of the traveller. The Shakers are the followers of Ann Lee, called by them Mother Ann, a religious enthusiast, who was born in England some time antecedent to the revolutionary war, and while yet in her youth, suffered much tribu- lation, and deep exercises of spirit, in her conversion from the sin of this world to a state of greater perfec- tion. She endured severe trials and much persecu- tion, according to iier own account, from her country- men ; but was afterwards favored with visions and an exhibition of miracles in her favor. Although in early life herself the wife of a poor blacksmith, the principal tenet of her creed is absolute and entire celib- acy, which is defended on various spiritual grounds, and fully set forth in a work recently published by the society. In consequence of the persecutions experi- enced by mother Ann in England, she came to this country and established a small society which has been followed by the establishment of others, of which this is one. Her followers regard her memory with pious ven- eration, and consider themselves as the only people in possession of the true light. Some of the oldest and 14^2 SHAKER SETTLEMENT. most perfect members, it is said, pretend to "speak with tongues," heal diseases by a touch, &c. The marriage contract is dissolved on joining their society ; their association is a perfect community of goods, all private property being thrown into the common stock, and they profess to banish the love of ambition, wealth and luxury from their gloomy territories. They own at this place two thousand acres of ex- cellent land, laid out and kept in the order, neatness and cleanliness, which always distinguish their sect. This is divided into four farms, or families, as they are called, occupied by about seventy-five persons each, of both sexes and all ages. They cultivate garden stuffs, seeds, &c. for sale, as well as every thing necessary for their own support, and they manufacture various use- ful and ornamental articles. These, as well as the sur- plus produce of the farm, are sold and the avails de- posited in one of the Albany banks until required. The division of labor which they carry into practice, every occupation being entrusted to separate members, and their economical habits, render their gains very considerable. The men work as farmers, carpenters, shoemakers, tailors, &c. ; the women at weaving, spin- ning, washing, cooking and in the duties of the farm, making and mending clothes, the occupations of each sex being performed in separate buildings. They also eat separately, and neither of them will sit down to a meal with what they call the " world's people." The dress of the men is the usual quaker drab, perfect- ly plain ; that of the women grey, with white caps, all made as plain and easy as possible. They all have a peculiar walk, but especially the females, in conse- quenco of their mode of worship, from which they de- SHAKEB SETTLEMENT, 143 live their name of Shakers, a strange and disagreeable mode of dancing, accompanied with a monotonous song. The young members of the community are regularly taught the steps in this dance by the older ones, before they are permitted to join in pubhc wor- ship. It is usual before the admission of a member to all the privileges of the society, to impose a noviciate of three months, when if he so desires he may leave them ; if not he is regularly admitted a member, and throws his property into the common stock. Notwithstanding the severity of their discipline as to celibacy, it is said the harmony of their society \ras lately much disturbed in consequence of a "love af- fair." A young man and woman, both belonging to the society, in despite of the doctrines of their leader, fell from their estate of " single blessedness," and yield- ed to a worldly attachment. This heresy, as might be expected, produced considerable commotion. The members wrestled with the tempter, and the elders prayed for and with the victims to the dreaded enemy of the sect ; but all to no purpose. They left the so- ciety and were married. It is creditable, however, to the members, that after finding their efforts to pre- vent this result unavaiUng, they sent the happy pair sufficient furniture for comfortable house-keeping, as- signing as a reason that they had labored for the so- ciety, and that it was no more than justice to reward them.* * Since the foregoing event, we are told another de- rilection from the rules of Mother Ann has taken place in the society, which also resulted in marriage. m2 144 FROM ALBANY TO SARATOGA SPRINGS. STAGES. Perhaps there is no place in the union from which sta- ges leave in so many directions, and are so well arran- ged, as at Albany. The best of horses and carriages and careful drivers are generally employed, and every attention is paid to the comfort and convenience of travellers. Among the lines may be enumerated three or four daily stages to Utica and Buffalo ; about the same number to Boston, passing on different roads ; and the same number to Wliitehall on Lake Champlain. A daily line is also established between Albany and the Springs throughout the year, and several daily lines dur- ing the summer months. These generally leave about 9 o'clock A. M. after the arrival of the morning boats from New-York, and at 2 P. M. Fare from ,$1,50 to $2. FROM ALBANY TO SARATOGA SPRINGS, The distance (via Ballston Spa) is 37 miles, and the intermediate distances as follows : J\Iile.'. Miles. \ MUcH. Ballytun Spa, 7 I Fort Plain,. 3 GaUv^y, 8 East C^aiuula Crock, 4 Stimson'8 Farm, ... 1 Little Falls 7 FoTida'9 Bush,, .... 9 1 Herkimer, S Johnstown, 10 j Frankfort, 6 Caughnawaga, .... 4 Utica, 9 Palatine, 12 | After passing Ballston Spa, the first object of attrac- tion is the FARM of Maj. Earl Stimson, in Galway, 16 miles from Saratoga Springs. It is beautifully located on an eminence, commanding a very handsome pros- pect ; and, under the successful tillage of its opulent and hospitable proprietor, is one of the most favored tracts of land in the state. It is generally laid out in- to lots of 10 arces each ; all of which appear in the highest state of cultivation. To Maj. S. the farmers in the county, and particularly in his own town, are much indebted for many improvements suggested and adopt- ed by him in agriculture. Fonda's Bush, a small manufacturing village, is 10 miles from Galway ; and 10 miles farther is the village of Johnstown, celebrated as the former residence of Sir William Johnson. The village contains between 2 and 300 buildings, a court house, jail, 3 churches, an academy, and 2 printing offices. It is situated on a handsome plain, with streets running at right angles ; and though many of the buildings are antiquated, yet there are several handsome private residences. The court-house, jail and Episcopal church were built by Sir William ; beneath the latter of which his remains now repose. In opening the vault a few years since, it was found to contain so much water that the coffin STAGE ROUTE — FORT PLAIN. 201 was actually floating on its surface. The lid, composed of mahogany, M'as taken off, and still remains inside of the church. It bears this inscription, formed with brass nails : " Sir Wm Johnson Bt Obiit 1774." The house, or what is called the " Hall," formerly occupied by Sir W. is about a mile from the village. Attached to it is a building" which was used by him as a fort ; into which he had occasion, at times, to retreat from the assaults of the Indians. The marks of tomahawks are still vis- ible on the stair-case in the main building. The battle of Johnstown, October, 1781, in which the British and Indians were defeated, was fought on the " Hall" farm. The American troops, consisting of between 4 and 500, were commanded by the venerable Col. Willet, who lately died at New- York. After the de- feat, the enemy were pursued by him to the Canada creek, where several were killed, including Maj. Butler. Out of 607 of the hostile force sent on this expedition, but 220 returned to Canada. Caughnawaga is 4 miles from Johnstown, on the turnpike leading from Schenectady to Utica, It has little to render it a place of interest, if we except an an- tiquated stone church, which has been built between GO and 70 years, without having undergone any mate- rial improvement or change during that period. Twelve miles farther, the stage stops at Palatine ; affording a beautiful prospect of the village of Canajo- HARiE, situated on the plain below, and on the banks of the canal. Fort Plain, a flourishing little village, is 3 miles vest of Palatine. A fort, from which the place derives 202 STAGE KOUTE — MTTLE FALLS. its name, was constructed here during the revolution- ary war ; though but little of its remains are now to be seen. The place was originally settled by Germans, who suffered severely from the early Indian wars of this country. During the revolution, those who had taken refuge in the fort, were surprised by Capt. But- ler, on his return from burning Cherry Valley, and be- came a prey to similar atrocities. The East Canada Creek is passed by a substantial bridge, in going 4 miles farther ; from which to Little Falls, is 7 miles. This place takes its name from a cataract in the vicinity, which, in size, is much inferior to the celebrated Cahoes, and has, therefore, been denominated the Little Falls of the Mohawk. A continuation of the chain of Catsbergs c;iosscs the riv- er at this place, and forms a rough bed for the waters of the cataract, which pour over the rocky fragments in the wildest confusion. Approaching from the south- east, a lofty ridge of mountains, frowning in grandeur on either side, conceals the course of the river and the falls, whose vicinity is announced only by the distant din and foam of its waters. For a considerable dis- tance, a narrow pass only is allowed for a road, with immense natural battlements of rock on either side, af- fording a sublime and most interesting spectacle. About 1-2 a mile from the village the road turns suddenly to the left, presenting a view of the falls tumbling with irresistible violence over a gradual rocky descent of about 80 rods. At the termination of the ascent is sit- uated the village, containing about 100 houses and 800 inhabitants. A little cluster of buildings, rising be- STAGE ROUTE LITTLE FALLS. "iOiJ tween the rushing waters of the Mohawk on the one hand, and the rugged chfFs and eminences on the oth- er ; the smooth current of the stream above gently gliding to the tumultuous scene below, and beyond the distant vale of the Mohawk diversified with fields, orchards, meadows, and farm houses, all contribute to set off the romantic appearance for which this place is so justly celebrated. This village derives most of its importance from the facilities for trade and commerce afforded by means of the Mohawk river and the Erie canal. Boats were formerly transported around the falls by means of a canal on the north side of the river. This old canal contains 8 locks and is now connected with the Erie canal on the south side of the river by means of an aqueduct 184 feet in length. The descent of the Erie canal here, in the distance of one mile, is 40 feet, which is passed by 5 locks. Travellers will always find it interesting to spend some time at this place, in vie^ving its great natural and artificial works. The ^Bqueduct across the river is one of the finest specimens of masonry on the whole line of the canal, though less stupendous than the locks at Lockport, and, in extent, falling considerably short of the aqueduct at Rochester. The river is passed on three beautiful arches of from 40 to 50 feet in height, with flagging on either side of the canal, and a strong iron railing. After crossing on the flagging, the strang- er should return on the wooden bridge west of the aqueduct; which being several feet lower, affords a fine view of the arches, and of the extensive basin in the river, immediately beneath the centre arch ; form- s2 204 STAGE ROUTE — LITTLE FALLS. ed, doubtless, by the action of round stones set in mo- tion by the water. The Erie canal, which is on the south side of the river, winds its way for some distance along the side of a bold and lofly mountain, the channel resting on a wall nearly 30 feet high, constructed from the bed of the river at great expense. The view afforded from a packet boat of mountain scenery on either side, with a bare passage for the dashing waters of the Mohawk between, is highly interesting and sublime. Whichev- er way the eye is turned, it rests on huge masses of granite and limestone, piled in heaps. These rocks in some places rise to a great height, almost perpendicu- lar, presenting a bleak black surface, unbleached by the thousand storms which have beat upon them ; others present a ragged and uneven face, crowned and over- hung by dark evergreens, dropping their verdure into the foaming torrent below ; the fissures between others of these huge piles produce hickory, maple and other trees, which hang from them, and with their sombre shadow deepen the gloomy darkness of the rocks from which they spring ; whilst the scanty soil upon others gives life and penurious nourishment to dwarf oaks and vegetation peculiar to similar inhospitable regions. In this scene, where the rude but magnificent works of nature are so profusely displayed, the imagination is overpowered, in their sublimity, and the proudest works of man, and man himself I'^se their importance. Even the canal, cut upon thp mighty and enduring pre- cipice — the road entrenched upon the mountain side, and the substantial locks and gates, all sink into com- parifivc incignifirnnce under the niightv shadows of the everlasting hills. STAGE ROUTE — HERKIMER. 205 Crystals of quarts, the most translucent, it. is beliov- pcl, of any heretofore discovered ia the state, are found in considerable quantities a short distance from the village.* The road, after leaving Little Falls, follows the bank of the river, in full view of the rich alluvial vale called the Herkimer and German Flats. This region, now glowing in all the beauty of successful cultivation, was once the theatre of the most sanguinary warfare. Du- ring the French and revolutionary wars, it was the scene of many barbarous incursions of the whites as well as savages. It was invaded by the French after the capture of Fort Oswego in 1756, and in 1757 the settlements were desolated by fire and sword. In the center of these flats is situated the village of Herkimer, 8 miles from Little Falls. This village, as well as that of Little Falls, forms a part of the town of Herkimer, which extends along the banks of the Mohawk about 15 miles. West Canada Creek enters the river about half a mile east of the village, and is passed near its mouth by a well constructed bridge. The village is principally built on two parallel streets. It contains about 100 houses, and not less than 800 in- habitants. Every appearance indicates a thriving and prosperous village. Between Herkimer and Utica is ♦ About 10 miles SE. of this place, on the ravine of a small stream, which empties into the Osquake creek, are some of the most interesting specimens of petrifac- tions ever discovered in the country. They consist of a mass from 20 to 25 feet long, and from 3 to 5 feet in diameter, composed partly of petrifactions and partly 206 UTICA. the small but thriving village of Frankfort, about 6 miles from the former and 9 from the latter place. The country after leaving Herkimer is quite level, and remarkably fertile, though not in a high state of culti- vation. UTICA. This flourishing village stands on the south bank of the Mohawk river, 94 miles westwardly of Albany. It occupies the scite of old Fort Schuyler, where] a gar- rison was kept previous to the revolution. Some re- mains of this fort are still to be seen between the east- ern extremity of Main street and the river. A few Ger- mans were settled here previous to the revolutionary war 5 but a part were captured by the Indians and the of incrustations. The lower part exhibits the trunk of a hemlock tree, 2 feet in diameter, while the other parts seem to have been formed of fragments of the same kind of tree. The transition from wood to tufa has been effected with so much precision, that the whole ligneous structure of the wood, its concentric layers, coatings or rings, gum, knots, &c. are most perfectly preserved. From some unknown cause, the waters which issued out of the declivity above the mass have failed or been diverted, so that petrifaction has ceased at this spot. But in other parts of the declivity from which waters issue, they are so highly impregnated with calcareous and other matters as to incrust pieces of wood coming within their reach. Not far from this place, the road has been cut through a tufa rock of very large dimensions ; on the sides of which are seen pe- trified pieces of wood imbedded within the mass. Whenever time will permit, mineralogists will find it interesting to stop a day at Herkimer, for the purpose ofvisitinff these extraordinarv formations. UTICA. remnant sought a place of more permanent settler established hims( of Fort Schuyler in 1784. Five ye families established themselves n iiir i'".i-. .i •.. .^ present village, and in 1798 a village charter was gi'^.; ted to the place ; since which it has rapidly increased in population. In 1813, it contained 1700 inhabitants ; in 1816, 2828 ; in 1820, 2972 ; in 1823, 4017 ; in 1826, 6040 ; in 1828, 7460 ; and in 1829, 9081. The village ia regularly laid out, the streets of good width, and most- ly paved. Genesee street, in particular, is peculiarly pleasant, and for the most part adorned with elegant stores and dwellings. There are numerous literary, benevolent and reli- gious institutions in this place. Among these the Onei- da Institute of Science and Industry is perhaps most worthy of remark, from its uniting manual with men- tal labor on the part of the students. There is a farm attached to it comprising one hundred and fourteen acres, upon which each student labors from three to four hours per day, and it is said that the experiment of two years proves that labor from 3 to 5 hours per day pays the board of the student in this plentiful region. It is principally intended for the education of those de- signed for the ministry, but its privileges are common to all youth of unexceptionable character. There are also a classical academy, a library, lyceum, and 9 churches, some of which are very elegant. Of the public houses, Brtg-g-'5 Tavern (see plate) by Messrs. Bagg and Churchill, is pleasantly located op- posite a wide area formed by the junction of Genesee, Main, John and Whitcsboro' streets, near the river* UTICA, and but a short distance from tho canal. It is a large establishment, well furnished and well kept, and may be justly ranked among tho best public houses in the I Union. The Mansion House, by Mr. Sanger ; the Ca- \ nal Coffee-House, by Mr. Wells ; the U. S. Hotel, by Mr. ' Shepherd ; the Oneida House, and Clinton House, are i also highly respectable and commodious establish- ments, enjoying an extensive patronage. The lands adjoining Utica are richly cultivated, pre- senting a succession of beautiful farms and country seats. There are also various objects of attraction in the vicinity, a visit to which may be ranked among the pleasures of an excursion to the west. Of these are Trenton Falls, at the north ; and Whitesborough, the York Mills, Clinton Village containing Hamilton College, and Rome, all within a few miles in a westerly direction. From what is called tho sitrnmit, an elevated spot near the village, a charming prospect may be had of the adjacent country, and particularly of the vale of the Mohawk for several miles in extent, including the beautiful and diversified farms which rise in a gentle acclivity from the river. Two daily lines of packets rim between Utica and Schenectady. The morning line leaves Utica at 8 A. M. on the arrival of the western boats, and the evening line at 8 P. M. The boats are 24 hours in passing from one place to the other. A daily line also runs between Utica and Buffalo, leaving Utica at 8 P. M. on the arrival of the eastern boats, and reaches Buffalo in 3 days. STAGES TO THE WEST. 209 STAGES. The Diligence Mail Coach, which travels by duy- hght only, leaves Utica, daily, at 5 A. M. and arrives at Auburn the first day, Rochester and Avon tlie eecond, and Lewiston and Buffalo the third. The Pilot Coach leaves Utica, daily, on the arrival of the Schenectady packets in the evening, and reach- es Buffalo via Batavia, and Lewiston via Rochester, in 2 days. The Eagle Coach leaves Utica every day, immedi- ately after the arrival of the 2 o'clock P. M. packet from Schenectady, and arrives at Canandaigua the following afternoon; at which place passengers may take the Pilot Coach for Buffalo via Batavia at 9 P. M. and for Rochester at 9 P. M. and 8 A. M. the next morning. The Union Line leaves Utica every day at 10 P. M. for Canandaigua, through in one day. The Pioneer Line also runs daily, Sundays except- ed. The stage fare from Utica to Canandaigua, 111 miles, is §3,50 ; from Utica to Rochester, 142 miles, from $4 to $4,50 ; and from Utica to Buffalo, 200 miles, $6,50. The intermediate distances are as follows : JdUes. New-Hartford, 4 Manchester, 5 Vernon, 8 Oneida Castle, 5 Lenox, 3 Quality Hill, 3 Chittcningo, 5 Manlius, 8 .lamesville, 6 Onondaga Hollow, . . 4 Onondaga Hill, 3 Miles. Marcellus, 8 vSkaneateles, 6 Auburn, 7 Cayuga, 8 Seneca Falls, 4 Waterloo, 4 Geneva, 7 Canandaigua, 16 East Bloomfield, ... 9 West Bloomfield, . . 5 Lima 4 210 TRENTOW FALLS. Pembroke, 14 Clarence, 8 Williamsville, 8 Buffalo, 10 Miles. East Avon, '. . . 5 Avon P. Office, 2 Caledonia, 8 Leroy, 6 Batavia, 10 During the warm season, stages also leave several times a day (fare $1 going and returning) for Trenton Falls, 14 miles north of Utica. A de- scription of these falls has been obligingly furnished to the editor of this work by James Macauley, Esq., au- thor of a History of the State of New- York, (a work of much merit, recently published) from which we make the following extracts : " These renowned Falls are on West Canada creek, between 22 and 24 miles above its confluence with the Mohawk. The West Canada creek is a powerful stream, and constitutes almost one half of the river at the coalescence. They commence a little above the high bridge on the Black river road, and terminate at Conrad's mills, occupying an extent of rather over 2 miles. They are 6 in number. " The West Canada creek in its way from the sum- mit of the higlilands of Black river to its lower valley, lying between the latter and Hassenclever mountain, crosses a ridge of limestone 4 or 5 miles in breadth, stretching through the country from the Mohawk to the St. Lawrence, Its course over tliis ridge by its tor- tous bed is 6 or 7 miles, 2 1 -2 of which are above the /alls. The waters of the creek, soon after they have reached the limestone, move with accelerated strides over the naked rocks to the head of the upper fall, where they are precitated 18 or 20 feet down an ab- TRENTON FALLS. 2U rupt ledge into a spacious basin. The whole descent to the head of this fall in the last 2 miles is computed at 60 feet. Here a deep and winding ravine begins, which extends down the stream more than 2 miles. Its average depth is estimated at 100 feet, and its aver- age breadth at the top, 200. The sides and bottom consist of limestone disposed in horizontal layers, vary- ing in thickness from some inches to a foot and up- wards, and abound with organic remains. The sides of the ravine are shelving, perpendicular and overhang- ing ; and some of the trees that have taken root in the fissures of the rocks are now pendant over the abyss, where they form the most fanciful appearances imag- inable. The country along, and neighboring the ravine, descends to the south and is mostly covered with woods which exclude every appearance till you arrive upon the very verge. There are 6 falls ; that above the hig-h bridge on Black river road, called the Upper, and that at the end of the ravine, Conrad's Fall. The first in the ravine is a mile below the high bridge, and is de- nominated the Cascades; the second, a little lower down, is called the Mill-dam ; the third, by way of em- , inence, are called the High Falls, and are 40 rods be- i low the preceding ; the fourth is nearly 70 rods below j the High Falls, and is called Sherman's. All these are formed by solid reefs of rocks wliich cross the bed of the stream. "The water at the Upper Fall descends 18 or 20 feet perpendicularly. Below, there is a capacious basin, out of which the stream issues in a diminished bed in- to the ravine, the entrance of which is between lofty barriers of rocks. This fall, when viewed from the T 212 TliENTON FALLf*. bridge, or from the high ground w est of the creek, has a fine appearance. " At the Cascades, consisting of 2 piichee, whh in- tervening rapids, the water falls 16 feet. The bed of the stream is hero contracted, and the sides serrated, the banks of the ravine rising with abruptness almost directly in the rear. " The Mill-dam Fall, which is the second within the ravine, has an abrupt descent of 14 feet, the stream being about 60 yards broad at the break. " The High Falls are 40 rods below the latter, and consist of 3 distinct falls, with intervening slopes and some small pitches. The first has a perpendicular de- scent of 48 feet ; in floods and rises the water covers the whole break and descends in one sheet ; but nt other times, mostly in two grooves at the west side ot the fall. The second has a descent of about 11 feet ; the third 37 feet ; and the three, including the slopes and pitches, 109 feet. In freshets and floods, the en- tire bed at the High Falls is covered with water of a milk white color ; and the spray, which at such times ascends in pillars towards the sky, when acted upon by the rays of the sun, exhibits the rainbow in all its brilliant colors. " The fourth fall is Sherman's, and is distant nearly 70 rods from the High Falls. The descent is 33 feet when the stream is low, and 37 wlien high. In drought- the water pitches down at the west side. " The last fall is at Conrad's mills, at the very foot of the ravine, and is 6 feet. "Besides the falls, there are several raceways ot chutes, from 10 to 20 rods long, through which the TBENTON FaLL!^. 213 waters pass with great rapidity. The whole depres- sion of the stream from the top of the Upper Fall above tho high bridge to the foot of Conrad's is 312 feet; and if we add tho descent above the Upper Fall, M'hich is computed to bo 60 feet, and that below Conrad's fall in half a mile, which is estimated at 15 feet, we shall find that the entire depression in less than 5 miles, is 387 feet. " The falls, raceways and rapids, and, in truth, tho whole bed within the ravine, exVubit very different ap- pearances at different times. These are occasioned by the elevations and depressions of the stream. In floods, the whole is one tremendous rapid, with four cataracts and several chutes. " The best time to \asit these falls is when the stream is low, because then there is no inconvenience or diffi- culty in ascending the ravine from the foot of Sher- man's stairway to the head of the upper raceway. Few persons who visit them have resolution to ascend the ravine from the stairway to the basin at the upper fall. This, however, is not to bo wondered at, because the lofty rocky barriers which constitute the sides of the ra- vine advance to the water's edge in many places, and ter- minate in frightful projections, which cannot be passed without the most imminent danger. Some of these difficulties, however, have been obviated by blasting away portions of the rocks and putting up chains ; and persons now go up to tho upper raceway without haz- ard. "Tho ravine, with some feiv exceptions, is still bor- dered by woods, and persons desirous of visiting the falls are obliged to go to what is called Sherman's 214 TRENTON FALLS. house, from whence they proceed through the woods by some nide paths. One of these leads to the stair- way, which descends to the bottom of the ravine, and another leads up to the High Falls. The former is usu- ally preferred. On reaching the strand at the foot of the stairway, you proceed up the stream at first upon the strand, and then by a narrow winding foot path to Sherman's fall. From thence you advance to the High Falls, a part of the way being overhung by large jutting rocks which menace jou with destruction. From the head of the High Falls to the upper end of the raceway above the Cascades, the way is easy when the stream is low, but from thence upwardly it is diffi- cult and dangerous. f* While you are passing along the narrow and sinu- ous paths leading by the projections, and by the brinka of headlong precipices, you tremble with reverential awe when you consider that one false step might pre- cipitate you into the resistless torrent below, and in an instant consign you to a watery grave. You see what a feeble creature man is, and are forcibly impressed with ideas of the wisdom and power of that mighty Being^ who commanded the earth to emerge from the deep and the Avaters to flow. " Along the bottom and lower parts of the ravine, numerous organic remains are found enveloped in the rocks which are easily divisible. The remains lie flat in or between the laminae, their contours and compo- nent parts usually being little distorted from their ori- ginal shape and dimensions. Sometimes there is de- fect, occasioned in the transition from the animal to the stony or fossil state ; but, in most instances, all the «T\GE ROUTE — NKW IIARTFOEl). 215 parts aro bo completely defined, that not only the or- der, but the genera and species may be recognized. These remains aro easily separated from the layers in which they are enclosed. Their exteriors are common- ly glossy, often very smooth, and ordinarily of a dark col- or, being transformed into stone, and constituting inte- gral parts of the rocks which envelope them. From a careful examination of certain of these remains, and their positions, we are led to believe that their proto- types lived and died on the spot, and that the rocks in which they are entombed are of posterior formation." Accommodations for visitants are furnished at Sher- man's, who keeps the only house at the falls for that purpose. Ladies who resort thither, should be furn- ished with calf skin shoes or bootees. They not only ov/e it to their health to be thus provided, but the best pair of cloth shoes will be ruined by a single excursion over these rocks. Returning to Utica, the traveller, in pursuing a jour- ney to the west by stage, first reaches the pleasant village of New-Hartford, 4 miles from Utica, containing about 120 dwellings and stores, three churches, be- sides a number of mills and manufactories, located on the Sadaquada creek. The land between Utica and New-Hartford is level and of an excellent quality, and resembles, with its neat and regular enclosures, an ex- tensive and highly cultivated garden, There.^rc in the vicinity many country residences, constructed and im- proved with much taste and elegance. One mile from New-Hartford, at Clute's tavern, a tolerably good view of Hamilton College, 3 or 4 miles t2 216 STAGE ROUTE ONEIDA CASTLE. distant at the S. W. is obtained ; but on ascending a more elevated position one mile farther, the prospect of the college and several adjoining buildings, is very distinct and beautiful. Manchester is 5 miles from NeMr-Hartford ; and the country between the two villages exhibits some of the most highly cultivated and delightful farms in the state. Vernon, S miles from Manchester, is a flourishing town of some magnitude. It contains two churches, a number of mills and a glass factory. Oneida Castle, 5 miles from Vernon, is situated on the Oneida creek, within the Oneida Reservation. Here is a considerable settlement, possessed by the Oneida and Tuscarora Indians. They still retain the customs and dress peculiar to their tribes. In the sum- mer they are employed principally in cultivationn ; in the fall it is their practice to repair in numbers to the hunting grounds in the north part of the state, from whence they return with their booty in the latter part of winter. This tribe entered the service of the state, as volunteers, during the last war. The first object which generally attracts the notice of the traveller in passi4ig their huts, is the appearance of several half naked children, swarming forth in quest of the daily contributions which are made them by tourists. It is astonishing to witness their speed, and the ease with which they frequently continue parallel with the stage for half a mile, until satisfied that no more donations are to be obtained. It would doubt- less be better for these children that this system of beggary should not be tolerated ; but the novelty of STAGE ROUTE CHITTENINGO. 017 the spectacle induces many individuals to countenance it, who would, upon sound principle, consider it objec- tionable. The lands in this reservation are but indifferently cultivated, and assume a miserable aspect in compar- ison with the rich and highly improved farms on either side. In passing over an elevated tract, hoM'ever, this disparagement is in a measure lost in the extensive prospect which is aflbrded at the north. A chain of lof- ty mountains is seen skirting the horizon as far as the eye can extend ; between which and the tract in ques- tion, are seen immense and apparently impenetrable forests. The prospect is sublime ; and will amply re- pay the traveller in stopping a short time to enjoy this rich and extensive scenery. Lenox, a small village, is 3 miles from Oneida Castle. One mile farther, the flourishing and newly erected vil- lage of Canestota is seen about half a mile north of the turnpike on an extensive plain below, with the Erie canal passing through it. Quality Hill, a neat little village on a pleasant em- inence, is 3 miles from Lenox ; and five miles farther is the village of Chitteningo, situated on a creek of that name, and from which a feeder 1 1-2 mile long, is constructed to the canal. The village is bounded by very lofty hills, and cannot be considered a happy location, except for manufacturing purposes. An extensive seminary call- ed the "Polytechny," has been established here by Doctor Yates, formerly a professor at Union College. Under the direction of one so distinguished for benev- olence and classical attainments, it has obtained much 21S !?TAGE ROUTE — MANLIU.^. celebrity, and may be justly ranked among the beet institutions of the kind in the state. Gypsum is here found in great quantities ; also numerous petrifactions, specimens of which are in most of the mineralogical cabinets in the Union. These petrifactions are near the village at the foot of a hill, and consist of the trunk of a tree and scattered fragments, the woody structure of wliich, in most cases, is remarkably perfect, and bearing a strong resemblance to the original. Various springs of water issue from the sides of the hill, which exhibits numerous incrustations (calcareous tufa) along its slope and in the vale below. To the properties of these waters way be attributed the formation of these incrustations and petrifactions. At Chitteningo, the road diverges, forming two prom- inent routes to Auburn ; one passing through the vil- lages of Manlius, Onondaga Hollow, Onondaga Hill, Marcellus and Skaneateles, and the other passing through the village of STRACirsE, noticed in the canal route. The first mentioned route, though over a less even country, is the one generally prefen'cd by travellers, as aflbrding a more rich and diversified scene- ry of highly cultivated farms and flourishing villageSr Four miles from Chitteningo, on the road to Manlius, is an eminence from which a beautiful prospect is ob- tained of a part of Oneida Lake and a wide extent of hilly country beyond, Onondaga Lake, and the vil- lage of Onondaga Hill, 15 miles distant. Four milc9 farther is the flourishing village of Manlius, situated on the cast side of Limestone creek, containing about 100 houses, 4 churches, 2 cot- ton factories, mills, &c. It is in contemplation to make a STAGE ROUT^ — MARCELLUS. 219 lateral cut of 2 miles which shall connect this creek with the western canal. Thers sre in tho vicinity 2 considerable falls, tae principal of which is 100 feet in height. Jamesyille is 6 miles from Manlius. Green Pond, in this vicinity, is worthy of notice. The water is 200 feet deep, and of a deep green color, emitting a strong smell of sulphur. The surface of the pond is between 100 and 200 feet below the level of its shores, which are precipitous and rocky. Four miles farther is th© village of Onondaga Hollow, extending 1 mile across a deep but beautiful valley, through which the Onondaga creek passes. The village contains an academy, church, &c. ; but its business has decHned since the opening of the canal, and the springing up of the village of Sy- racuse, which is 4 miles distant. Three miles south of Onondaga Hollow is a considerable settlement of Onondaga Indians, where once was held the grand councils of the Six Nations. Onondaga Hill, 2 miles farther, is pleasantly situa- ted on very high ground, with a commanding view of the country to the north and east for a considerable dis- tance, embracing within the prospect the Onondaga Lake and the villages of Syracuse, Salina and Liver- pool. Marcellus, 8 miles from Onondaga Hill, is a neat village of 60 or 70 houses, situated in the valley of the Otisco creek. Two miles north are falls of some 60 or 70 feet affording facilities for a variety of manufactories ; near which, water lime or cement is found in inexhaust- ible quantities. There is also lying on the bank of the 'i^O STAGE HOITE — SKANEATELESr creek at this place a petrified tree of large dimen- sions, partly covered with limestone. Skaneateles, 6 miles from MarcelluPj is eituated at the foot of the Skaneateles Lake, and is a beautiful thri\ing village, containing about 1000 inhabitants, 2 churches and a flourishing academy, a variety of man- ufactories, mills and many elegant private dwellings. It enjoys a commanding \iew of the lake for 6 or 8 miles above and of the surrounding country, which ri- ses in a gentle aclivity from the water 100 feet or more in the course of a mile, presenting a range of neat white farm houses on the summit, and a slope of highly cul- tivated coimtry towards the lake on each side. The lake, which is 16 miles long and from half a mile to two miles in width, abounds with fine trout and other fish. The water is deep and remarkably pure, with a gravelly bottom and bold shores. The prospect from the lake is highly interesting, particularly towards its head, where the country rises abruptly several hundred feet, presenting a miniature picture of mountain scene- ry. Under these bluffs on the east side and on a level with the water are found large quantites of petrifactions, the cornu ammonite, imbeded in a stratum of slate. Three miles north of the village the Skaneateles creek falls over a bed of rocks about 70 feet in a short dis- tance ; but, in low water, the whole is lost or sinks among the rocks and only a part of it again appears at a distance of half a mile below, presenting the novel spectacle of a river much larger at its fountain than at its mouth. Seven miles from Skaneateles stands the flourishing village of H STAGE ROUTE — AUBUKN. 221 Auburn. It is situated on tho Owasco creek, two miles below its outlet from tho lake of the same name, 24 miles from Onondaga, and 170 from Albany. This village owes much of its importance to tho numeixMis mills and manufactories for which its location is ex- tremely eligible. It contains about 450 houses and 4000 inhabitants. Amongst other public buildings there are a court house and gaol, and a prison erect- ed for convicts at the expense of the state. There has also been established a theological seminary, which is patronized exclusively by the Presbyterian de- nomination, and is at present the only one of the kind in the state. Many circumstances combine to render this place an agreeable residence to tho man of taste or business. The village is handsomely built, and in- creases annually in population and business. It is sit- uated 7 miles from Weed's Port, on the canal, to which place stages run daily, for the accommodation of passengers M'ishing to take packet boats for the west or east — fare 50 cents. A lateral canal or rail road from Auburn to Weed's Port is in contemplation, and will probably, ere long, go into effect. The principal public houses are the Western Ex- change and Bank Coflec House. The State Prison, at Auburn, is considered one of the best in the Union. It was commenced in 1816, and is constructed upon the plan of a hollow square, enclosed by a wall 2000 feet in extent, being 500 feet on each side. The front of the prison, including the keeper's dwelling, is about 300 feet, and the two wings extending west, are 240 feet each. The north wing contains the solitary cells and hospital, and the south 222 STAGE ROUTE — AUBURN. wing 18 divided principally into two large rooms. Be- tween the two wings is a grass plat with gravel walks ; to the west of which is the interior yard, covered with gravel, containing reservoirs of water, and surrounded with workshops. These shops, besides the paint shop, form a continued range of 900 feet ; and are well lighted by windows in the sides and from the roof. They are built of brick, and are well secured against fire. The outer walls, against which the shops are built, are 35 feet high on the inside, and the other walls about 20. They arc four feet thick, and the walls of the prison 3 feet. The expense of the whole, without including the labor of convicts employed, was above $300,000. The prison being erected on the bank of the Owasco, water power is applied in many cases, to great advantage, in propelling machinery. The most interesting period for witnessing the pris- oners is early in the morning, from the time they are brought forth to labor till after breakfast. The spec- tator will then have an opportunity of seeing some of the prominent features of the order, regularity and system with which every thing is conducted. He will admire the precision with which the rules are execu- ted, without the least confusion, noise, or even com- mand. " The convicts silently marching to and from their rest, meals and labor, at precise times, moving in separate corps, in single file, with a slow lock step, erect posture, keeping exact time, with their faces in- clined towards their keepers, (that they may detect conversation, of which none is ever permitted,) all give to the spectator somewhat similar feeUngs to those ex- cited by a military funeral j and to the convicts, im- STAGE ROUTE — SENECA FALLS. 3^ presaions not entirely dissimilar to those of culprits when marching to the gallows. The same eilence^ eo- Icnmity and order, in a good degree, pervades every business and department." In addition to divine service in the chapel of the pris- on every Sabbath, a Sunday school has been establish- ed, superintended by the students of the theological seminary, which has been attended with very beneficial effects. So admirable has been the discipline of this prison that a large proportion of the convicts discharged have become honest, industrious men, and none are known to have become corrupted or made worse. In 1829, the number confined was about 570, and their earnings considerably exceeded the expenses of the prison. Caydga, 8 miles west of Auburn, is a small village ; but affords a beautiful prospect of the Cayuga Lake, and the bridg-c extending across, which is 1 mile and S rods long, and situate within 2 miles of the outlet. This lake is 38 miles in length, and is generally from 1 to 2 miles in breadth. The water is shallow, but of sufficient depth for a good sized steam-boat, which plies daily between the bridge and Ithica, a beautiful and thriving village, at the head of the lake, 36 miles distant. The Seneca Falls, 3 miles west of Cayuga, afford important manufacturing facilities. A canal, 20 miles long, has been constructed from this place to the Erie canal at Montezuma ; which, connected with a branch of the Seneca river, gives an uninterrupted water com- munication from Geneva to the lakes and the ocean. Four miles farther, is the handsome village of t24 STAGE ROUTfi GENEVA. Waterloo, a half shrre towa in Seneta county. It containg nearly 200 houacs, a court-house, jail, and 2 printing ofiiceg. The village is principally situate on the northern bank of the Seneca outlet ; which here propels several mills. The commencement of this vil- lage was in 1S16 ; and its growth, which has been rap- id, is far from complete. Constant additions of build- ings and mills are making; and it will doubtless, ere long, be ranked among the important villages of the west. The principal public house at this place is the Western Hotel. From Waterloo to Geneva, 7 miles distant, the route is delightful, cm- bracing (a part of the way) a charming ride around the north end of the Seneca Lake, which is here about 2 miles wide. The village is one of the most elegant in the state ; and, with its beautiful scenery, cannot fail of calling forth the admiration of every visitant. It is situate on the western margin of the lake, the bank of which being lofty, affords an enchanting view of one of the purest sheets of water in America. There are al- ready in this place about 450 buildings, many of which are very handsome ; and the number is constantly in- creasing. Among the public buildings are a college, an academy, 4 churches and a bank. The college is located on an eminence south of the village, on the margin of the lake; and though in its infancy, is handsomely patronized. It is in the vicinity of several country seats, enjoying an unusual richness of pros- pect, with an almost constant breeze from the lake ; which is about 35 miles long, and from 3 to 4 miles wide. It abounds with salmon trout and other fish, and is never closed with ice. A steam-boat runs daily STAGE ROUTE — GENEVA, 225 from Geneva to iefrersonvilio, at the head of the lake, leaving the former place at 7 A. M., and returning at evening.* The Genesee turnpike leads through Gene- * A passage on the lake is peculiarly delightful and interesting. Leaving Geneva with its neat stores, and elegant dwellings, its luxuriant hanging gardens, and the glittering spires of its churches and college, the eye . takes in a southern water view not surpassed in any part of this world of inland seas. The first village of any note on the eastern shore is Ovid, 18 miles from Geneva. The lofty eminence on which it stands, and the rich and highly cultivated farms in its vicinity, ren- der it a most conspicuous and interesting object. Di- rectly opposite to Ovid is Dresden, one of the most thriving villages in Yates county. It is situated on the outlet of Crooked Lake, and extends nearly a mile back of the shore. Immediately south of Dresden, is the farm of the late celebrated Jemima Wilkinson, an en- thusiast, who pretended that she was the Saviour of mankind. Until her death, which took place some years since, she had several followers ; and this farm, which is very beautiful, has passed by will into the hands of one of them. Four miles south of Dresden is Long Point, remarkable for a tree at its extremity, which, by a little aid from the imagination puts on the semblance of an elephant. Six miles south of Long Point is Rapelyca's ferry, near which is still standing the frame wdiich Jemima constructed to try the faith of her followers. Having approached within a few hundred yards of the lake shore, she alighted from an elegant carriage, and the road being strewed by her followers with white handkerchiefs, she walked to the platform, and having announced her intention of walk- ing across the lake on the water, she stepped ankle deep into the clear element, when suddenly paiising, she ad- dressed the multitude, inquiring whether or not they had faith that she could pass over, for if otherwise, she ^*36 STAGE UOUTE — CANANDAIGUA. va, and the Erie oanal passes about 12 miles to the north of it ; with which there is a water commimica- tion, by means of the outlet of the Seneca lake and a lateral canal. This communication has already proved of great importance to the place, and has rendered its trade but little inferior to the most favored villages of the west. The principal public houses in the place are St. John's and Hemingway's ; both of which arc high- ly creditable to the proprietors. Canandaigua is 15 miles from Geneva. This vil- lage is situated near the outlet of the lake from which it takes its name, on a gentle ascent commanding a fine view of the lake at the distance of half a mile. The principal street extends 2 miles in length, and is could not ; and on receiving an afiirmative answer, re- turned to her carriage, declaring that as they believed in her power, it was unnecessary to display it. Six miles and a half south of Rapelyea's ferry, is Starkie's Point, Avhcre the shore is so bold that the steam-boat passes within 10 feet of the extremity of the Point, Four miles further on the west shore is the Big Stream Point, at which there is a mill seat with a fall of 136 feet. The land puts on a wilder aspect as the tourist approaches the head of the lake, and the eminences arc more beetling and precipitous. The eastern shore also partakes more of the mountainous character, though cidtivated far up the summit lands, and is here and there marked by ravines, tlirough one of which " Hec- tor Falls" tumble from a height of one hundred anrl fifty feet, and carry several valuable mills. These fall;- ave distant three miles uom Iho village of Jcfl^^rson-villf, at the head of the lake, which has len nlly sprung into existonce, and which will soon btcome an important inland town. BURNING SPRINGS. 227 hajidsomdy decorated with trees, thron.ijh v,-'r»k'.h ap- pear the delicately painted dwellings, onitMnented with Venitian blinds. In an open square, in the centre of the village, is the court house and clerk's ofRce of the county. The Episcopal church, situate on the main street, is one of the most elegantly constructed build- ings in the state. In the vicinity are a number of de- lightful villas, surrounded with smiling gardens and orchards of various kinds of fruit, which, with the view of the lake stretching far to the south, beautifully set off the scene of enchantment. In richness and variety of natural scenery, and the taste and elegance of its edifices, few villages can compare with Canandaigua. In point of trade and wealth, too, it is not exceeded by many villages in the state. A steam mill is here in op- eration, which annually furnishes a very large supply of flour. On the lake, which is 14 miles long, and from one to two in breadth, a steam-boat performs a daily trip, which is rendered unusually interesting from the varied scenery which is presented. The village is situated 20S miles from Albany ; from Utica, 1 1 1 ; from Buffalo, 89 ; from Niagara Falls, 109. Principal hou- ses. Blossom's Hotel (one of the best in the western district) and Pitt's Eagle Tavern. Burning Springs. From 8 to 10 miles, in a south- westerly direction from Canandaigua, are found several springs, charged with infiamable gas. The following description of them is taken from a Canandaigua jour- nal : " These springs are found in Bristol, Middlesex, and Canandaigua. u2 228 BURNING .-PRINGfS. The formor oro situated in a ravine *»n the west side of Bristol ilollow, about half a mile from the North Presbyterian meeting house. The ravine is formed in clay slate, and a small brook runs throii.^h it. The gas rises through fissures of the slate, from both the mar- gin and the bed of the brook. Where it rises through the water, it is formed into bubbles, and flashes only when the flame is applied ; but where it rises directly from the rock, it burns with a steady and beautiful flame, which continues until extinguished by storms, or by design. • The springs in Middlesex are situated from one to two miles southwesterly from the village of Rushville, along a tract nearly a mile in length, partly at the bot- tom of the valley called Federal Hollow, and partly at an elevation of 40 or 50 feet on the south side of it. The latter have been discovered within a few years, in a field which had been long cleared, and are very nu- merous. Their places are known by little hillocks of a few feet in diameter, and a few inches high, formed of a dark bituminous mould, uhich seems principally to have been deposited by the ga'^, and through which it finds its way to the surface, in one or more currents. These currents of gas may be set on fire, and will burn with a steady flame. In winter they form openings through the snow, and being set on fire, exhibit the nov- el and interesting phenomenon of a steady and lively flame in contact with nothing but snow. In very cold weather, it is said, tubes of ice are formed round these currents of gas, (probably from the freezing of the wa- ter contained in it,) which sometimes rise to the height of two or three feet, the gas issuing from Iheir fops; BUHJfING SPRINGS. 2^9 (110 wholo when lighted )n a stiil evening picseuUu^ an appearance even moro bcautifuUthan the former. Experiments made with the gas seem to prove, that it consistsprincipally of a mixture of the hglit and heavy rarburetted hydrogen gases, the former having greatly 1 he preponderance J and that it contains a small pro- '.^ortion of carbonic acid gas. It seems also to hold a iiltleoily or bituminous matter in solution. It burns ^'. ith a lambent, yellowish flame, scarcely inclining to red, with small scintillations of a bright red at its base. It has the odour of pit coal. It produces no smoke, but deposits, while burning, a small quantity of bitu- minous lampblack. It is remarkable that the hillocks, through which the gas rises, are totally destitute of vegetation. Whether the gas is directly deleterious to vegetable life, or indirectly, by interrupting the contact of the air of the atmosphere, it is certain that no plant can sustain life within the circle of its influence. It is well known that this gas is found abundantly in coal mines ; and being accidentally set on fire, (mixed as it is in those mines with the air of the atmosphere,) has many times caused terrible and destructive explo- sions. The writer cannot learn that it has ever been known to be generated in the earth, except in the pres- rnce of coal ; and hence the inference is strong that it proceeds from coal." From Canandaigua stages may be taken for Roches- ter, (sec " Canal Route,") distant 27 miles in a north- westerly direction, and the route continued from thence to tiie Falls by stage or canal ; but if a visit to Montre- al, by the way of Lake Ontario, is not contemplated, it 1!? generally deemed a better course to proceed directly 530 STAGE ROUTE — AVON SPRING. lo Buffalo and the Falls, and return by the way of Ro- chester. In pursuing the usual route from Canandai- gua to Buffalo, East Bloomfield is reached in travelling 9 miles, and West Bloomfield in going 5 miles farther. They are considered among the richest agricultural town- ships in the state ; presenting a succession of beauti- ful and highly cultivated farms. The fruit raised on these lands, particularly apples and peaches, is not ex- celled in any section of the country. Lima is 4 miles from West Bloomfield, and is a con- tinuation of the same rich and fertile soil, divided into highly improved and productive farms. East Avon is 5, and Avon Post Office 7 miles from Lima. The Genesee river passes through the town of Avon, and is navigable for boats to the Erie canal at Rochester, 20 miles distant, with which it is connected by a feeder. The alluvial flats are very ex- tensive and fertile ; and the uplands are well watered by small streams and springs. A remarkable bulbous root grows on the Genesee flats in this town. It is from 3 to 4 feet in length, from 6 to 8 inches in diame- ter, and assumes the external appearance of a log in the earth. A small creeping vine, like that of the strawberry, proceeds from the root ; and its natural vegetable productions are almost infinitely various. The Avon Spring is becoming a place of considera- ble resort for invalids. Its waters, which are strongly impregnated with sulphur and alum, are found benefi- cial in various diseases. The tourist will generally find himself amply compensated by ?j ending a day at this place. STAGE ROUTE LE UOY. 231 Caledonia, 3 milce from Avon Post OlTicc, is more particularly celebrated as the location of a large Springy tiian for any thing else. The stage usually stops at the village long enough to enable passengers to visit this natural curiosity, which is situate a few rods north of the principal street. Witliin a small area, sufficient water rises to propel a mill, (of which there are several on the stream below,) at all seasons of the year. The water is pure and appears to rise from a rocky bottom. A stage runs daily from this place to Rochester, which is '20 miles distant. A part of the route lies on the '-ank of the Genesee river, and, most of the way, through an uncultivated country. Settlements and improvements, however, are rapidly increasing ; and the wildernesg will ere long give place to the arts of husbandry. Pursuing the direct route from Caledonia to Buffalo, ho next place of importance is the pleasant and thri- ving village of Leroy, which is 6 miles west of Caledonia, an 17 jiiles south of the Erie Canal. Allen's creek, which passes through the village, affords important mill privi- leges, and contributes much to the value and business of the place. The number of buildings already erect- ed is between 2 and 300, principally located on one street ; among which are several very handsome pri- vate dwellings. Numerous petrifactions have been found in the bed of the creek, about 200 yards north of the village bridge ; among which are petrified turtles,, weighing from 10 to 300 pounds. They are composed principally of dark coloured bituminous limestone, which 13 easily split, and often discovers crystaline ^3^ STAGE ROUTE — BATAVIA. veins, together with yellow clay or ochre. The mine- ralogist will find much here to gratify his taste and re- ward his researches. The delightful appearance of the village, also, with its charming location on an emi- nence, will often induce the traveller to make it a tem- porary resting place from the fatigues of a journey. Batavia is 10 miles from Le Roy. It is the capital of Genesee county ; and assumes more the appearance of one of the early settled villages in New-England, than the more flourishing villages of the west. It is situated on the north side of the Tonewanta creek, on an extensive plain, and has several handsome and even elegant private mansions. Besides the court house and jail, it contains a bank, the Holland Company land office, and a few other public buildings. This village has become somewhat celebrated as the theatre of events connected with the masonic fraterni- ty. It was the residence of the noted William Morgan, previous to his abduction ; and from one of its print- ing offices was first issued what has been denominated the secrets of masonry. The excitement produced for a time in the village, and for many miles around, was of a nature the most rancorous and intolerant, and un- worthy the character of an enlightened people. Illibe- ral feehngs, however, have, in a measure, given place to reason ; and there is a prevailing disposition to es- tablish peace and good order. After leaving Batavia for Buffalo, the country soon assumes a less populous appearance ; and the travel- ling is rendered unpleasant from the extensive cause- ways which intervene, consisting of logs placed trana- rersclv in the road. This has been done to avoid the ERIE CANAL. 233 (loop mud on the low gronncls, which aro subject to frequent inundations in the spring and fall. The state of these roads has induced many to prefer t!ie ridge road or alhxvial way from Rochester to Levviston, (which is noticed in a subsequent part of this vohnnc.) But, in visiting Buffalo as well as the Falls, the latter route is more circuitous, and can be taken with greater convenience in returning. The intervening places between Batavia and Buffa- lo, are Pembroke, 14 miles — Clarence 8 — Williamsville 8 — from which to Buffalo is 10 miles. [For a descrip- tion of the latter place, see " Canal Route."] ERIE CANAL. This magnificent structure was commenced under the patronage of the state, on the 4th of July, 1817, and was completed in 1825, uniting the waters of the Erie and Hudson, at an expense of less than seven mil- lions of dollars, a sum trivial in comparison with the immense advantage derived to the state from such communication. The canal, beginning at Albany on the Hudson, passes up the west bank of that river nearly to the mouth of the Mohawk ; thence along the bank of the Mohawk, to Schenectady, crossing the riv- er twice by 2 aqueducts. From Schenectady it follows the south bank of the Mohawk until it reaches Rome. In some places it encroaches so near as to require em- bankments made up from the river to support it. An embankment of this description at Amsterdam village, is 5 or 6 miles in extent. What is called the long level, being a distance of 69 1-2 miles without an interven- ing lock, commences in the town of Frankfort, about S 1 '234 E&IE CANAL. miiee east of Utica, and terminates 3-4 of a mile cast from Syracuse ; from thence the route proceeds 85 miles to Montezuma, situated on the east border of the Cayuga marshes, 3 miles in extent, over which to the great embankment, 72 feet in height and near 2 miles in length, is a distance of 52 miles ; thence 8 1-2 miles to the commencement of the Genesee level, extending westward to Lockport, nearly parallel with the ridge road, 65 miles. Seven miles from thence to Pendleton village the canal enters Tonnewanta creek, which it follows 12 miles, and thence following the east side of the Niagara river, communicates with Lake Erie at Buffalo. The whole line of the canal from Albany to Buffalo is 363 miles in length. It is 40 feet wide at the top and 28 feet wide at the bottom. The water flows at the depth of 4 feet in a moderate descent of half an inch in a mile. The tow path is elevated about 4 feet from the surface of the water, and is lOfeet wide. The whole length of the canal includes 83 locks and 18 aqueducts of various extent. The locks are construct- ed in the most durable manner of stone laid in water lime, and are 90 feet in length, and 15 feet in width. The whole rise and fall of lockage is 688 feet ; and the height of Lake Erie above the Hudson 568 feet. The principal aqueducts are, one crossing the Genesee river Ja-t Rochester, 804 feet in length ; one crossing the Mo- hawk at Little Falls, supported by 3 arches, the centre of 70 feet, and those on each side of 50 feet chord ; and two crossing tlie Mohawk river near Alexander's bridge, one of which is 748 feet and the other 1188 feet in length. The whole workmanship evinces a degree of beauty and proportion consistent with the greatest KRIE CANAL. 235 strength. In many places the sides of the canal arc either paved with small stone or covered with thick grass, designed to prevent the crumbling of the soil by the motion of the water. To the main canal are a number of side cuts or lateral canals : one opposite Troy, connecting with the Hudson ; one at Syracuse, a mile and a half in length, to Salina ; one from Syra- cuse, to Oswego, 38 miles in length; one at Orville ; one at Chitteningo ; one at Montezuma, extending to the Cayuga lake, 5 miles, and from thence to the Sen- eca lake at Geneva, a distance of 15 miles ; and one at Rochester of two miles in length, which serves the ■double purpose of a navigable feeder, and a mean of communication for boats between the canal and the Genesee river. It is highly probable that these lateral cuts will increase in ratio with the enterprize of the nu- merous adjacent villages scattered along the line of the main canal. From these and various other improve- ments which public enterprize has already suggested, the state of New- York is destined to reap a full harvest of prosperity. If her national glory has already dawn- ed with so much lustre, what will be its tneridian splen- dor — when her magnificent improvements, uniting with her own the navigable waters of her sister states, shall serve as so many ligaments to bind the confederacy in the indissoluble bonds of friendship and interest. The debt contracted for the Champlain and Erie canals, amounted on the 1st of January, 1826, to $9,108,269, including $1,621,274, expended in the construction of feeders, lateral canals, dams, &.c. and in the payment of salaries of the commissioners and other officers en- gaged in the work. The revenue from the tolls of both v 236 ERIE CANAL. canals, in lS-22, amounted to §64,071 ; in 1823, to ^151,099; in 1824, to $289,320; in 1825, to $500,000; in 1826, to $675,190; in 1827, to $859,058; and in 1S28, to $8Sa,000. On the 1st of Jan. 1830, the canal debt, including the expenses of constructing the Oswe- go and Cayuga and Seneca canals, and exclusive of the extinguishments which had been made, amounted to $7,706,013; and the tolls received for the preceding year, to the sum of $816,302,76 — the Oswego and Sen- eca canals not having furnished a revenue equal to the interest of their cost and the expense of their repairs. To the payment of the interest and principal of the ca- nal debt, is appropriated not only the tolls, but also the duties on salt and auctions, with other sources of in- come, which amounted, in 1829, to $376,77 — making the total receipts of that year, including tolls, $1,193,- 979. CANAL PASSAGE. Of the sources of gratification to the tourist, during the canal passage, that of novelty is perhaps the great- est. To the man of pleasure, it will be considered, per- haps, too little diversified with incident to be repeated ; but to the man of business this objection will probably yield to the united considerations of the convenience and safety of this mode of conveyance. The passage boats are generally constructed 80 feet in length and 14 feet in width, and draw from 1 to 2 feet of water. The cabin occupies the whole length of the deck, ex- cepting about 8 or 10 feet reserved at one end for the cook, and 4 or 6 feet at the other end for the pilot. The intermediate space is occupied as a cabin, con- structed from the deck into a room 8 feet in height, CANAL ROUTE. a37 with single births on each side, and calculated to ac- commodate 30 persons. The boats are drawn by three horses, one before the other, and move day and night, at the rate of 4 miles an hour. Relays are furnished every 8 or 10 miles. Boats with commodities proceed at the rate of 55 miles in 24 hours ; and boats with pas« sengers (including delays) about 35 miles in the same time. CANAL ROUTE. The several places and distances, as they occur on tlie canal route from Albany to Buffalo are as follows : DISTANCE FROM o « rf t3 r; jrt o 5 « cS 03 eg S^ '-3 o 3 'p^ < :d fi ca Albany, 110 270 363 Troy, 7 7 103 263 356 Junction, 2 9 101 261 354 Schenectady, 21 30 80 240 333 Amsterdam, 16 46 64 224 317 Schoharie Creek, 7 53 57 217 310 Caughnawaga, 4 57 53 213 306 Spraker's Basin 9 66 44 204 297 Canajoharie, 3 69 41 201 294 Bowman's Creek, 3 72 38 198 291 Little Falls, 16 88 22 182 275 Herkimer, 7 95 15 175 268 Frankfort, 5 100 10 170 263 Utica, 10 110 160 253 Whitesboro', 4 114 4 156 249 Oriskany, 3 117 7 153 246 Rome, 8 125 15 145 238 Smith's, 7 132 22 138 231 Loomis' 6 138 28 132 225 Oneida Creek, 3 141 31 129 222 238 CANAL JROUTE. DISTANCE FROM d e _; O **< "S. -< P tf Canistota, 5 146 36 124 217 New Boston, 4 150 40 120 213 Chitteningo, 4 154 44 116 209 Manlius, 8 162 52 108 201 Orville, 3 165 55 105 198 Syracuse, 6 171 61 99 192 Geddes, 2 173 63 97 190 Nine-Mile Creek, 6 179 69 91 184 Canton 6 185 75 85 178 Jordan, 6 191 81 79 172 Weed's Basin, 6 197 87 73 166 Port Bryon, 3 200 90 70 163 Montezuma, (Lakeport,) . . 6 206 96 64 157 Clyde, 11 217 107 53 146 Lyons, 9 226 116 44 137 Newark, 7 233 123 37 130 Palmyra, 8 241 131 29 122 Fullom's Basin, 13 254 144 16 109 Pittsford, 6 260 150 10 103 Rochester, 10 270 160 93 Ogden, 12 282 172 12 81 Adams' Basin, 3 285 175 15 78 Brockport, 5 290 180 20 73 Holley, 5 295 185 25 68 Newport, 10 305 195 35 58 Portville, 4 309 199 39 54 Oak Orchard, 5 314 204 44 49 Middleport, 7 321 211 53 42 1 Lockport, 12 333 223 63 30: Pendleton, 7 340 230 70 23 ! Tonawanda, 12 352 242 82 Hi Black Rock, 8 360 250 90 3 Buffalo, 3 303 253 93 O: SCHENECTADY. 239 SCHENECTADY, Is 15 miles from Albany, and 22 from Saratoga Springs ; and can be reached twice a day by stage from either of those places.* The city is situated on the Mohawk, a broad and beautiful river, which forms its northern boundary. It was burnt by the Indians in 1690, and suffered a considerable conflagration in 1819, since which event the antique appearance of the city has been much improved by the introduction of mod- ern architecture. The principal Hotel is kept by Mr. Davis, (formerly Given's,) in the south-east part of the city and within a few rods of the Erie canal. The building is constructed of brick, 50 feet front, and with its wing, 2 stories high, exclusive of the basement sto- ry, extends back 150 feet. The main building is 3 sto- ries in height, besides an attic story, containing an apartment for a billiard room. From this elevated spot a view may be had of the city and its environs, of the Mohawk and of the canal for some distance, and of the rich and variegated landscape which spreads on the south and west of the city. The Hotel can accom- modate 130 guests. It is furnished throughout in a very superior style, and guests receive every attention and accommodation that can contribute to their conve- nience and amusement. Union College is built on an eminence, which overlooks the city and the Mo- hawk for a number of miles. The college consists at present of two brick edifices, but the plan includes a * Owing to the numerous locks between Albany and Schenectady, no packet boats run between the two cities. v2 240 CAWAL ROUTE SCOHARIB CHEEK. chapel and otlier buildings hereafter to be erected, in the rear, and between those already constructed. At this institution about 200 students are educated annu- ally. The expense per annum is \<^130. In numbers and respectability Union College may be ranked among the most favored seminaries in our country. A handsome bridge has been constructed across the Mohawk, at the west end of this city. The bridge is 9&7 feet in length, and is passed by the stage on its route to Utica. Daily post coaches, connected with the western line of stages, leave Schenectady every morning and arrive at Utica the same day. By the present arrangement, boats leave Schenectady every morning and evening, reaching Utica in 24 hours, and Buffalo in 4 days. An evening boat is considered preferable, as it passes Little Falls, the most interesting part of the canal between Schenectady and Utica, by day-light ; and gives an opportunity of remaining one night in Utica, from whence a canal boat or stage may be taken the next morning. The price of conveyance in the packet boats is 3 cents per mile, meals extra. Amsterdam, 16 miles west of Schenectady, is situa- ted on the Mohawk turnpike, near the river. It has a post office, a church, and about 50 dwellings and stores. A bridge crosses the Mohawk at this place. The canal with its embankments made up from the river for 5 or 6 miles in extent, is opposite the village, on the south side of the Mohawk. Schoharie Cuef.k, 7 miles. The ruins of Fort Hun- ter, at the mouth of this creek, are still visible. It was an important post during the early wars of this country. CANAL ROUTE MOHAWK CAPSTLE. 5 11 A chapel built by Queen Anne for the Indians, is also to be seen near this place, called Queen Jlnne'^s Chapel. The canal crosses the creek, by means of a dam and guard lock. Caughnawaga, 4 miles. {See p. 201.) Anthoxt's Nose, 8 miles. This is a very abrupt and prominent hill on the south side of the canal, hav- ving on its top a cavern, which extends to a great depth. Cattajoharie, 5 miles. (Seep. 201.) Fort Plain, 4 miles. (See p. 201.) East Canada Creek, 4 miles. This creek enters the Mohawk on the north side ; near which, Capt. But- ler was killed by the Indians soon after his wanton des- tniction of the village of Cherry Valley. Mohawk Castle, 2 miles. The ruins of an old chap- el erected for the use of the Mohawk Indians are still visible at this place, and also some slight remains of their once formidable fortifications. Three miles farther, as the boat approaches Little Falls, the scenery becomes highly picturesque and sub- lime. On either side are lofty and apparently inacces- sible mountains, affording a narrow pass for the road, river and canal. Indeed, the latter, for a considerable distance, is formed by an excavation in the side of the mountain, having a wall of 20 or 30 feet to support its northern embankment. The river here, for two or three miles in extent, descends with much rapidity over a rocky and uneven bottom, and exhibits, in some in- stances, an appearance not unlike the rapids above the falls of the Niagara. 242 CANAL ROUTE — ORISKANY. Little Falls, 5 miles from Mohawk Castle. {Set p. 202.) After leaving Little Falls, the canal enters a smooth and delightful level, including vv^hat are called the Ger- man Flats, passing near the village of Herkimer, 7 miles from the Falls, (see p. 205;) from thence to Frankfort, 5 miles j and from thence to Utica, 10 miles. {For a description of Utica and Trenton Falls, see page 206 to 215.) Whitesborough, 4 miles north-west of Utica,' is a beautiful and wealthy village, located on a rich and fer- tile plain. The principal and most elegant street is a short distance from, and runs parallel with the canal ; from which, through branches of trees half enshroud- ing the village, may be seen several elegant country seats. It may be considered, indeed as better adapted for a country residence, than a place of business. At the eastern extremity of the village is shown the first franif'd house erected in the county of Oneida ; half a mile from which, the canal passes over the Sauquait creek. Within 11 miles of the canal, on this creek, there are 84 mills of various descriptions, including sev- eral factories, some of which cost rising of $120,000. The York mills, or cotton factories, half a mile south of the canal, are considered among the best in the state, and constitute of themselves, with the houses for labor- ers, a compact village. Oriskant, 3 miles from Whitesborough, is a flourish- ing village of 70 or 80 houses. It is situated on the Oriskany creek, which here enters the canal as a fee- der. CANAL ROUTE HOME. 243 Rome, 8 miles. This is a half shire town of the coun- ty of Oneida, contains a court-house and jail, and is pleasantly situated on the north side of the old canal, connecting Wood creek with the Mohawk, and about half a mile north of the Erie canal. It contains between 100 and 150 houses, principally located on one street, running east and west. The ruins of Fort StanwiXf near the village, between Wood creek and the Mohawk, are still visible. This fort was erected in 1758 by the British, was suffered to decay, and was afterwards re- built by the Americans during the revolution. 15 or 1800 men, including Indians, were sent from Mont- real by Burgoyne, in 1777, to beseige the Fort. They were commanded by the Baron St. Leger. Gen. Her- kimer, commandant of the militia of Tryon county, (embracing the present counties of Montgomery and Herkimer,) was sent against them with about 800 men. On meeting a detachment of Leger's forces, the militia mostly fled on the first fire. A few, however, remain- ed and fought by the side of Gen. H. who was mortal- ly wounded in the road between Wliitestown and Rome. The Americans lost 160 killed and 240 wounded. The fort, which was commanded by Col. Gansevoort, was afterwards assaulted by Leger's army ; but they were driven off by a sortie, directed by Col. Willet, and their camp plundered. Subsequently, the fort was summon- ed to surrender ; but through a stratagem of Gen. Ar- nold, who sent two emissaries from the camp at Still- water, an Indian and a white man, to inform Leger of the approach of a powerful American army for the re- lief of the beseiged, he ordered a precipitate retreat to the Oneida lake, leaving all his baggage behind. 1244 CANAL ROUTE — SYRACUSE. An arsenal belonging to the U. S. is situate about half a mile west of the village and 300 yards north of the canal. 16 miles from Rome the canal crosses the Oneida Creek ; and 5 miles farther it passes through the new and pleasant village of Canistota, half a mile north of the western turnpike. New Boston is 4 miles farther ; from which to Chitteningo is 4 miles. A navigable feeder enters the canal at this place. It is taken from the Chitte- ningo creek at the village of that name, a mile and a half distant. {See p. 217.) From Chitteningo to Man- ^ lius {see p. 218) is 8 miles ; from thence to Orville 3 ;♦ and from thence 6 miles to Syracuse. The appearance of this village as you approach it, is very handsome. It is built on both sides of the canal, and the stores and warehouses are sub- stantial and lofty. On the left as you come up the ca- nal, is one of the most splendid Hotels in the state. It is of brick four or five stories high, and surrounded with piazzas. There are also nearly 400 dwellings and stores, and every thing has the appearance of a com- mercial bustling town. This thriving village owes its importance principally to the immense quantity of salt produced in its neighborhood, the whole adjacent coun- try being impregnated with it, and springs from which immense quantities are manufactured rising in vari- +At this place are inexhaustible beds of water lime, used for hydraulic cement ; large quantities of which are annually exported. SALINA. 245 0U3 directions. A little west of Syracuse, a plain of 300 acres is nearly covered with vats for the manufac- ture of salt by solar evaporation. The water is brought in logs from the great spring at Salina, one mile dis- tant, and supphes, with very little attention, the vari- ous ranges of vats. A hght roof is constructed to each vat, which can be shoved offer on at pleasure, to per- mit the rays of the sun to act upon the water, or to prevent the dampness of the atmosphere from commin- gling therewith. The salt is taken out of these vats twice or three times during the warm season, and re- moved to store houses ; from whence it is conveyed in barrels to the canal for transportation. Salina is one and a half mile north of Syracuse, and though not on the usually travelled route to the west, should be visited for the purpose of examining the prin- cipal spring, and the various salt estabhshments con- nected therewith. A packet constantly plies between the villages on a lateral canal, affording an easy and pleasant mode of conveyance. The spring at Salina was first discovered by the In- dians many years since, by being the resort of deer and other animals. The first white settlers were in the habit of boiling the water in small vessels for domestic purposes. Since then, the spring has been excavated to a very considerable depth, and affords the strongest saline water yet discovered in the world, 40 gallons yielding about a bushel of pure salt. The water is for- ced up to the top of an adjoining hill by a powerful hy- draulian driven by the suplus waters from the Oswego canal, which commences at this place. The salt wa- 246 SALINA. ter is in this way conveyed 85 feet above the canal to a large reservoir, into which it is discharged at the rate of 300 gallons per minute. It is hence carried to the different factories in Salina and Syracuse. Of these there are about 100 at Salina and 23 at Syracuse ; there are also 26 at Liverpool, about 6 miles north-west of Salina, and 25 at Geddesburgh, 2 miles west of Sy- racuse. The works and springs all belong to the state, to which imposts are payable to the amount of 63 cents per barrel of 5 bushels,* and every manufacturer pays two cents per bushel for the use of the water. The water is conveyed from the reservoir to the different manufactories and evaporating fields, by means of wooden pipes. The salt is manufactured generally by boiling and evaporation. There are, however, two es- tablishments in which it is made in large wooden vats by means of hot air passing through them in large me- talic pipes. The manufactories contain from 15 to 40 potash kettles, under each of which a constant fire is kept up, so that the water may not cease to boil. The first deposit of the water is thrown away. The pure salt soon after makes its appearance, and is refined for the table by means of blood, milk, rosin, &c. The springs are considered as inexhaustible. In 1928, there were 1,160,838 bushels inspected ; and in 1829, 1,291,820 bushels ; showing an increase of 130,932 bushels. Of this, 745,741 bushels were inspected at Salina, 229,317 at Syracuse, 187,540 at Liverpool, and 129,222 at Geddes. * These duties are applied by the constitution of the state towards the extinguishment of the canal debt. CANAL ROUTE WEEd's BASIN. 'Ml Salina is a flourishing village; but of less magni- tude than Syracuse ; though from the rapidly increas- ing growth of both, it is not improbable that they will ere long become a continuous town. A fine view of the Onondaga Lake, about a mile distant, is had from the place. It is six miles long and two broad. At its north western extremity is seen the pleasant village of Liverpool, of recent origin, but promising to become a place of some importance. Gypsum and petrifactions are found in great quantities in the vicinity of the lake. The Oswego Canal, from the Onondaga lake to Lake Ontario at Oswego, is 33 miles long, including 20 miles of the Oswego river, on which are several locks and dams. The whole lockage of the canal and river is 123 feet. Geddes, 2 miles by canal, from Syracuse, is becom- ing a place of some importance, in consequence of the recent discovery of several valuable salt springs. They are mostly within a few rods of the canal, as well as numerous establishments for the manufacture of salt. A short distance west of the village, a fine prospect is had of the Onondaga lake and the villages of Liverpool and Salina, on its northern and eastern shores. Nine Mile Creek, 6 miles from Geddes. It is a stream of some magnitude, and is crossed by the canal, over two arches. Canton, a small village, 6 miles. Jordan, 6 miles. A short distance east of the village, the canal crosses the Jordan creek. Weed's Basin, 6 miles, A thriving village of 50 or 60 houses. A stage can be taken here daily for Auburn, 7 miles south. {See p. 22L) w 248 CANAL ROUTE — MONTEZUMA. Port Byron, 3 miles. The canal here crosses the Owasco creek, a stream issuing from a lake of that name 2 miles south of Auburn. The state prison is erected on the bank of this creek, the waters of which are used for propelling the machinery. Five miles farther are the Montezuma salt works, about 1-4 of a mile north of the canal, with a lateral cut leading thereto ; one mile from which is the small vil- lage of Montezuma. The western section of the canal (contradistinguished from the middle and eastern sec- tions) commences at this place. From Utica to Mon- tezuma the mean descent of the canal isJ45 feet ; and there are 9 locks, ascending and descending. From Montezuma to Lockport the ascent is 185 feet, and the number of intervening locks 21. The waters of the canal at Montezuma are remarkably pure and chrysta- line in their appearance, not unfrequently exhibiting large quantities of fish at their bottom. One mile from Montezuma, the canal enters the Montezuma marshes, 3 miles in extent. These marsh- es are formed by the outlets of the Cayuga and Seneca lakes, and exhibit a most dreary, desolate and stagnant appearance. The water is generally from 4 to 8 feet deep, and the bottom covered with long grass, the usual growth of swamps, extending frequently to the surface. A long bridge is used for a tow path over a part of these marshes. Shortly after leaving them, the canal crosses and unites with the outlet of the Canandaigua lake, a sluggish stream, which, with the outlets of Cayuga and Seneca, soon form the Seneca river, which enters lake Ontario at Oswego. CANAL ROUTE — PITTSFORD. 249 Cltde, 11 miles from Montezuma, is a flourishing village, containing glass works. From thence to Ly- •ONS, a handsome village, is 9 miles ; and from thence to Newark 7 miles. Palmyra, 8 miles from Newark, is a thriving village in Wayne county. It is built chiefly on a wide street ulong the south bank of the canal, and is a place of considerable trade. Mud creek runs eastward, about 40 rods north of the main street, and the canal passes between the creek and the street. There are several factories and mills on this creek. Palmyra and Port Gibson are landing places for goods designed for Can- andaigua. Fullom's Basin, 13 miles. From this place to Roch- ester, by canal, is 16 miles ; while the distance by land is but 7 1-2. Travellers, accordingly, who have seen the Great Embankment over the Irondequoit creek, fre- quently take a stage, to shorten the excursion ; but those who have never passed over this artificial work, should continue on the canal route. The embankment is reached in about 4 miles from Fullom's Basin, and ia continued for nearly two miles at an average height of about 70 feet. The novelty of a passage at so great an elevation, is much increased in the fine prospect af- forded of the surrounding country. Two miles from the embankment, is the handsome village of PiTTSFORD, containing 80 or 90 houses and several stores ; and 10 miles farther, is the flourishing and im- portant village of 950 CANAL ROUTE ROCHESTER. ROCHESTER. It is situated on the east and west side of the Gene- see river, which, at this place, is 50 yards wide, and is crossed by 2 substantial bridges within the limits of the village. On the north side of the lower bridge, the lo- cal distinctions of East and West Rochester have been in a measure annihilated, by the erection of the Mar- ket and Exchange buildings over the Genesee, making the twain a continued village. Within its limits are two of the six falls on the river : the upper a small fall of 12 feet at the foot of the rapids, and immediately above the canal aqueduct ; and the other the great fall of 97 feet, about 80 rods below. From a point of rock about the centre of these falls, at the foot of a small isl- and, the celebrated Sam Patch made his last and fatal jump, in the autumn of 1829. From a scaflbld elevated 25 feet above the table rock, making the entire height 125 feet, he fearlessly and carelessly precipitated him- self into the abyss beneath. He did not rise at that time to the surface ; nor was his body found until the following spring, when it was discovered at the mouth of the Genesee river, 6 miles below. His arms were probably dislocated at the first shock, as he carried them horizontally ; and the depth of water being only fifteen and a half feet, it is supposed that he was killed by striking on the rocky bottom. He was a little less than three seconds in falling, and struck the surface with a force of about 8000 lbs. From a complete wilderness, Rochester has been re- deemed in the comparatively short period of 18 years, the first settlement having been made in 1812, Its sit- uation in the immediate vicinity of the canal, and only CANAL ROUTE — ROCHESTER. 251 7 miles from Lake Ontario, with a ship navigation with- in two miles of the town, enables its inhabitants to se- lect a market either at New- York, Quebec, or on the borders of the great western lakes ; and the many oth- er, natural advantages which it enjoys for trade and manufactures, destines it to become one of the most important places in the interior of the state. The pop- ulation of Rochester at the census taken in the fall of 1827, was 10,818, making ah increase of more than 3,000 within the preceding year ; and the number of buildings was 1474, 352 of which had been built the season previous. Its population in 1829 was estimated at 13,000, and its number of buildings at near 2000. The Erie canal strikes the river in the south part of the village, and after following the eastern bank for half a mile, crosses the river in the centre of the village, in a splendid aqueduct, which cost rising of $80,000. Tliis aqueduct is constructed of red free stone, and from the eastern extremity of its parapet walls to the western termination, is 804 feet long. It is built on eleven arches ; one of 26, one of 30, and nine of 50 feet chord, under which water passes for flouring mills and other hydraulic establishments. The piers, which are placed on solid rock, in the bed of the river, are 4 1-2, and the arches resting thereon 1 1 feet high. On the north wall, which is of sufficient thickness for the towing path, is an iron railing ; and at the west end, the whole is terminated by a highway and towing path bridge, of the most solid and elegant workmanship. The canal is supplied by a navigable feeder from the Genesee, through which boats may enter and ascend the river from 70 to 90 miles. The height of the canal at Roch- w2 252. CANAL ROUTE — ROCHESTER. ester above the tide waters of the Hudson is 501 feet ; above Lake Ontario, 270 feet ; and below Lake Erie, 64 feet. Among the pubUe buildings in the village, are a court house, jail, 11 churches, 2 markets, 2 banks and a museum, together with two valuable institutions, the Franklin Institute and Atheneum. The Globe build- ings, a majestic pile, built of the most durable materi- als, and rising from the water's edge, are 5 stories, ex- clusive of attics, with between 130 and 140 apartments suitable for workshops, (having a sufficient water pow- er for each,) and several stoi'es. The principal public houses are the Rochester House, Clinton House, Eagle Tavern, Mansion House and Arcade House. There are also two daily and several weekly newspapers. Within the limits of the village are 1 1 flouring mills, containing 53 run of stones, capable of manufacturing 2500 bushels of flour and consuming more than 12,000 bushels of wheat every 24 hours. Some of the mills are on a scale of magnitude perhaps not equalled in the world. One of them contains more than four acres of flooring, and all are considered unrivalled in the perfec- tion of their machinery. The immense water power at this place opens a wonderful field for labor saving ma- chinery, among which are many ingenious operations, well worthy the inspection of the curious in those mat- ters. The Arcade, erected the past year, (1S29,) is 100 feet in front, 135 feet in depth, and 4 stories high, ex- clusive of the attic and basement. Ii has 6 stores in front, with a large opening for a passage to the ^Srcade^ where the post office, atheneum, arcade house, and a CANAL ROUTE — ROCHESTER. 253 variety of offices are located. From the centre arises an observatory in the form of a Chinese Pagoda, which overlooks the surrounding country ; and in clear w^eath- ■er the lake can be seen like a strip of blue cloud in the horizon. The front of this edifice is stuccoed, in imita- tion of marble, except the first story, w^hich is of the Oswego red free stone. The geological structure of this region can be easily traced, and is beautifully illustrated in the banks of the river, which are from 100 to 200 feet in height, with a descent of 270 feet to the lake. At Carthage, two miles below, are a great variety of petrefactions, which have been blasted from the rocks in forming a canal for mill privileges. Seven miles from Rochester, a part of the way on the ridge road, on the east side of the river, is Irondequoit bay, with a high sand ridge running across it, except about two rods, where there is a channel ; the shore is fine and sandy, and equals any in Ameri- ca for bathing. The bay is also celebrated for fishing and fowling. Stages leave Rochester daily, by way of Palmyra, Weed's Basin, Syracuse, Cherry Valley and Schoharie for Albany J 217 miles ; and by way of Canandaigua, Geneva, Auburn, Skaneateles, Onondaga, Utica, Little Falls and Schenectady, for Albany, 237 miles. They also leave daily, by way of Lewiston (passing over the ridge road) and Niagara Falls, for Buffalo, 104 miles;* * The ridge road commences 2 1-2 miles from Roch- ester, over which the following are the intervening dis- tances between that place and Buffalo: Carthage Falls 2 miles, Parma 9, Clarkson 7, Murray 7, Ridge way 15, riartland 10, Cambria 12, Lewiston 12, Niagara Falls 7, Buffalo 22. 5234 CARTHAGE. and by way of Caledonia, Le Roy and Batavia, for Bw/- Jido, 77 miles. Packet Boats, also, leave Rochester every morning for Buffalo and for Albany. The Steam Boat, Ontano, constantly plies during the summer season between Lewiston on the Niagara, and Ogdensburgh on the St. Lawrence river, touching at Hanford's Landing, 3 miles from Rochester, by which passages may be had to the Falls or Montreal once a week. [This route is noticed morefidly under the head of Lake Ontario.] Before leaving Rochester, (unless the ridge road or steam boat route should be taken,) the traveller will fiad it an object of interest to visit Carthage, 2 miles down the Genesee river. This village derived its consequence from an elegant bridge, which, during its existence, formed the most eligible route to the western part of the state. The bridge was erected across the river just below the basin of the falls, winch are 70 feet. It consisted of a single arch, whose chord measured 300 feet. The distance from the centre to the river was 250 feet. This stupendous fabric stood a short time after its construction, and at length fell under the pressure of its own weight. One of the hutments is still standing; and from its situation, visitants may judge of the former position of the bridge, and the almost impious presumption of man in attempting to overcome height, space, gravity, and the resistless fury of the elements. Sloops from the lake, 5 miles distant, ascend up the river to these falls; where they are laden and unladen by means .M CANAL ROUTE — OAK OHCHARl). 'i55 of an inclined plane — the descending weight being made to raise a lighter one by its superior gravity. The great western level on the canal commences two miles east of Rochester ; from whence to Lockport, a distance of 65 miles, there is no lock. Between the two villages, the route is mostly through a wilderness. Occasionally a new village is seen springing up on the banks of the canal ; and appearances indicate, that the forests on the whole line will ere long give place to cultivation and compact settlements. Ogden, a small village, is 12 miles from Rochester ; and from thence to Brockport is 9 miles. The village contains 80 or 100 houses ; and the number is rapidly increasing. HoLLEY, 5 miles. A short distance east of the vil- lage is the Holley Emhankment and culvert, over Sandy creek, elevating the canal 87 feet above the level of the creek. Newport, 10 miles ; a flourishing village of 80 or 100 houses. Eight miles farther, in the town of Ridgway, a public road passes under the canal, through a hand- some arch ; one mile from which, is the village of Oak Orchard, on the bank of a creek of that name. The canal here crosses the creek over the largest arch on the whole route. There are circular steps leading to the bottom ; from whence is a foot path passing un- derneath and leading to the village. As the boat " waits for no man," passengers desirous of seeing Uiis artifi- cial work, should go ashore before reaching it, and gain time by a rapid walk. They can be received on board 256 CANAL ROUTE — LOCKPORT. again at the village, where the boat stops to land and receive passengers. MiDDLEPORT is 7 miles farther ; from whence to LocKPORT is 12 miles. By far the most gigantic works on the whole line of the canal, are at this place. After travelling between 60 and 70 miles on a perfect level, the traveller here strikes the foot of the " Moun- tain Ridge," which is surmounted by 5 magnificent locks of 12 feet each, connected with 5 more of equal dimensions for descending — so that while one boat is raised to an elevation of 60 feet, another is seen sink- ing into the broad basin below. The locks are of the finest imaginable workmanship, with stone steps in the centre and on either side, guarded with iron railings, for the convenience and safety of passengers. Added to this stupendous work, an excavation is continued through the mountain ridge, composed of rock, a dis- tance of three miles, at an average depth of 20 feet. When viewing this part of the canal, we are amazed with the consideration of what may be accomplished by human means. The village of Lock port is mostly located on the mountain ridge, immediately above the locks ; and though "founded on a rock," surrounded with rocks, and with little or no soil, it has already become a place of importance. In 1821, there were but 2 houses in the place ; now there are between 3 and 400. The canal here being on the highest summit level, and supplied with water from lake Erie, (distant 30 miles,) an abundance is obtained for hydraulic purposes, and the surplus at Lockport has been sold for $20,000. BUFFALO. 257 In the excavation through the mountain, several minerals were dircovered ; among which were some of the finest specimens of dog tooth spar ever found in the U. States. At first they were easily obtained ; but they have lately become an object of profit, and are sold at prices corresponding with their beauty. Seven miles from Lockport,* at Pendleton, the ca- nal enters the Tonnewanta creek, and continues there- in 12 miles to its mouth, where is a dam 4 1-2 feet high. From thence it is continued on the bank of the Niagara 8 miles to Black Rock, where it unites with the harbor, and from thence on the bank of the river 3 miles, to Bui&lo. BUFFALO Is situated at the outlet of Lake Erie. It is a beau- tiful and thriving village, and with the advantages of both a natural and artificial navigation, it is destined to become one of the most important places in the state. Its present population is estimated at upwards of 7000, and the number of buildings at 1000. The Erie canal commences in this village, near the outlet of the Buffalo creek, and passes through an extensive and perfectly level plot, equadistant from the shore of the I lake and the high grounds called the Terrace. From [ the canal are cut, at very suitable distances, lateral ca- nals and basins, rendering the whole of the lower town * Passengers in packets, who wish to visit the Falls, generally take a stage at Lockport, and proceed direct- ly to Manchester (the American Fall) 23 miles distant, or to Lewiston, 7 miles below the Falls ; visiting the latter afterwards. 258 BUFFALO. contiguous to water communication. Stores and ware- houses are so constructed, as to receive the boats along side. In its location, Buffalo is in the midst of the en- terprize and business of this new world. All the man- ufactures and migrating population of the north and east here find a resting place, and the agricultural pro- ducts of the west, coming hither from the long extend- ed lakes, here seek a new avenue to the Atlantic. The lowei' town will soon be spread over that part below the Ten-ace, where begins a gentle and equal rise of ground, continuing nearly and perhaps quite two miles, and then falls away to a perfect level as far as the eye can reach, bounded only by the horizon. Upon this elevated ground there is a charming view of the lake, Niagara river, the canal with all its branches, the Buf- falo creek, the town itself, and the Canada shore ; a prospect from which every one parts with reluctance. The streets are very broad, and passing from the high grounds over the Terrace to the water, are intersected with cross streets. There are 3 public squares of some extent, which add much to the beauty of the town. The public buildings are a court-house, situated on the highest part of Main-street, well proportioned and handsomely ornamented. The Presbyterian meeting house, standing near the Episcopal church upon a semi- circular common on Main-street, is an edifice of very commanding appearance. There are many spacious hotels, for the accommodation of the traveller ; among wliich, the Eagle Tavern, kept by Mr. Rathbun, is con- sidered one of the best in the union. The village was burnt by the British in 1814, when there was but one house left standing. This is still pointed out in the upper part of the town. It was not BUFFALO. 259 ttntil considerable time had elapsed after this, that Buf- falo began to be rebuilt, nor until the canal was locat- ed, did it rise with much promise. Great improvements have recently been made in the harbor. The sand from the lake met the current of the Buffalo creek, and formed every season a bar which prejudiced the harbor to an alanning degree. By an erection of a pier, 18 feet wide and 80 rods long, run- ning into the lake, this evil is overcome. The Imver town is subject to another evil of some magnitude. Gales or tempests from the southwest cause an inun- dation of the lake, by means of which great losses of property are frequently sustained. This may, and probably will be prevented, by constructing a dike at a suitable place near the bank of the lake. As this place was the theatre of important events during the last war, the writer had expected to find in the village church yard some monuments to the memo- ry of the brave who fell during that period. But he discovered only one ; it contained the following in- scription : " To the memory of Maj. Wm. Howe Cut- ler, who was killed at Black Rock by a shot from the enemy, on the night of the 9th October, 1812, while humanely administering to the relief of the wounded soldiers, who intrepidly crossed to the British shore, and brought over the Adams frigate, that had been sur- rendered by Gen. Hull, and the Caledonia ship belong- ing to the enemy. He was in the 35th year of his age, and son of the late Henry Cuyler, Esq. of Greenbush, in this state." The Seneca Viltuse, settled by a tribe of about 300 Indians, is from 3 to 4 miles south east of Bulfdlo, and is X 260 WESTERN LAKES. usually visited by strangers. The tribe own a valuable tract of land, bordering on the Buffalo creek ; which, under the management of the whites, would yield lux- uriantly ; but, in the hands of its present proprietors, is but partially improved. Red Jacket, a celebrated chief of this nation, died in 1829, at an advanced age. Stages leave Buffalo every morning and evening for Utica — the morning line going through by day-hght in 3 days — the evening, day and night, in two days. A line also runs daily to Rochester. THE WESTERN LAKES. Before proceeding down the Niagara river to the Falls, it may be interesting to tourists to examine a brief description of the great chain of lakes whose wat- ers flow through this channel. It will give a more ad- equate idea of the vast amount of waters which are united in this stupendous river. Lake Superior, the first and westernmost of these inland seas, lies between 46*^ and 49° of north latitude, and between 84° and 93° west longitude from London. Its length is 459, and its average width 109 miles. About 40 small and 3 large rivers enter into this lake, on one of which, just before its entrance, are perpen- dicular falls of more than 600 feet. The water of the lake is remarkably transparent, so much so, that a ca- noe over the depth of six fathoms seems rather suspen- ded in air than resting on the water. The outlet of the lake is called the river St. Marie, which is 90 miles long, its waters flowing into Lakc Huron. This lake is on the boundary between the U. States and Canada, 218 miles long from east to VVESTERW LAKES. 261 west, and 1 30 broad. Besides the waters of Lake Stt- perior, it receives the waters of Lake Michigan, which is 300 miles long and about 50 miles wide. At its northwest corner a large in- let opens, called Green Bay, about 100 miles long, and from 15 to 20 broad, into which Fox river empties. Three miles from the mouth of this river is Green Bay village, a very considerable settlement, and a U. States military post, called Fort Howard. The fort is built of stone, and is on a beautiful rising ground. Steam-boats from Buffalo visit this place occasionally during the summer — distance 807 miles. Besides the Fox, the St. Joseph and Grand, two very important rivers, and in- numerable smaller streams, discharge their waters into Lake Michigan. Near the mouth of the straits which unite the Michi- gan with the Huron lake, and within the latter, is tho island of Michilimackinac, commonly called Mackinaw, distinguished as a militaryfpost during the French war, and occupied as such by the government of the \J. S. at the present time. The island is about 9 miles in circumference ; and the village of Mackinaw, which is on its south east side, is surrounded with a steep cliff 150 feet high. On the top of this cliff stands a fort ; half a mile from which, on another summit, 300 feet above the level of the lake, is Fort Holmes, command- ing an extensive prospect of both lakes. Mackinaw is 180 miles NE. of Fort Howard, 313 N. of Detroit, and 627 NW. of Buffalo. The waters of these lakes thus congregated, enter the St. Clair river, 40 miles long, to the St. Clair Lake, which is about 90 miles in circumference. From this 262 FROM BUEFALO TO NIAGARA. lake they enter the Detroit river, on which the city of Detroit* stands, 9 miles below the lake, and commu- nicate with Lake Erie, 19 miles from Detroit. Lake Erie is on the boundary line between the U. S. and Upper Canada. It is 290 miles long from SW. to NE., and in the widest part, 63 broad. Besides the waters of the upper lakes, it receives the Gayahoga river and several tributary streams. Such are the sources of the Niagara ; a river infe- rior in splendor to none, perhaps, in the world. FROM BUFFALO TO NIAGARA FALLS, on the American side. A stage leaves Buffalo every morning at 6 o'clock, passing through the village of Black Rock 3 miles, Tonnewanta 9 miles, (where the canal enters the Tonne- wanta creek,) Niagara Falls 11 miles. Fare $1. This line, after giving passengers an opportunity of witness- ing the Falls for 2 or 3 hours, proceeds to Youngstown, or Fort Niagara, passing through Lewdston. On the Canada side. A stage leaves Buffalo, daily, at 8 A. M. passes through Black Rock 3 miles, crosses the ferry to Water- loo 1 mile, and proceeds to Chippewa battle ground 15 miles, Chippewa village 1 mile, Niagara Falls 2 miles. Fare, including ferriage, $1,12. Stages leave Niagara at 3 P. M. for Queenston and Fort George. * Steam boats leave Buffalo every other day for De-, troit, stopping at Erie, 90 miles — Grand River, 60 — Cleaveland, 30— Sandusky, 55— Detroit, 71— total 305 miles. Fare, in the cabin, ^15. Boats also leave Buf- falo daily for Erie, Ponn. touching at Dunkirk and Port- land. FORT ERIE. ,^ !2G3 STEAM BOAT LINE. The steam-boat Chippewa leaves Buffalo every mor- ning at 8 o'clock, passing every other day around Grand Island, and reaches the village of Chippevt'a about noon ; from whence passengers take stages for the Falls. The boat returns to Buffalo at 7 P. M. Fare each way $1. Black Rock, 3 miles from Buffalo, is a village of considerable magnitude on the west bank of the Nia- gara river. It was burnt by the British in 1814 ; but has been rebuilt, and is much increased from its former size. Among its most prominent buildings is the pri- vate mansion of Gen. Peter B. Porter, late secretary of war, which has a very handsome appearance from the Mrater. A pier in the river, about 2 miles long, affords a harbor to the village, and is used as a part of the grand canal. The dam, however, has been found in- sufficient to withstand the force of the current. Re- peated injuries are sustained, and vessels now seldom enter the harbor. The Niagara river is here one mile wide, and is crossed in a horse boat. Opposite Black Rock, on the Canada side, is the email village of Waterloo ; a little south of which stand the ruins of Fort Erie, rendered memorable as the theatre of several severe engagements during the last war. The last and most decisive battle fought at this place, was on the night of the 15th of August, 1814. The fort was occupied by the Americans ; and its possessioD was considered an object of importance to the British. Taking advantage of the darkness of the night, they made repeated and furious assaults, and were as often x2 364 CHIPPEWA BATTI-E GROUNP. repulsed ; until, at length, they succeeded, by superior force, in gaining a bastion. After maintaining it for a short time, at the expense of many lives, accident placed it again in the hands of the Americans. Several car- tridges which had been placed in a stone building ad- joining exploded, producing tremendous slaughter and death among the British. They soon retreated, leav- ing on the field 221 killed, among whom were Cols. Scott and Drummond, 174 wounded, and 186 prisoners. The American loss was 17 killed, 56 wounded, and 11 missing. This action was followed by a splendid sortie near the fort on the I7th of the following month, which re- sulted in a loss to the British of nearly 1000, including 385 prisoners, and to the Americans of 511 killed, wounded and missing. From Waterloo to Chippewa Battle Ground is 15 miles, over a tolerably good, though sandy road. The Battle of Chippewa was fought on the 5th of July, 1814, and has been described as one of the most bril- liant spectacles that could well be conceived. " The day (says a writer) was clear and bright ; and the plain such as might have been selected for a parade or a tournament ; the troops on both sides, though not nu- merous, admirably diciplincd ; the generals leading on their columns in person ; the glitter of the arms in the sun, and the precision and distinctness of every move- ment, were all calculated to carry the mind back to the scenes of ancient story or poetry — to the plains of Latium or of Troy, and all those recollections which fill the imagination with images of personal heroism and romantic valor. CllirPEWA VIJ^LAUE. -265 After some skirmishing, the British Indians were discovered in the rear of the American camp. Gen. Porter, with his volunteers and Indians, were directed to scour in the adjoining forest. This force had near- ly debouched from the woods opposite Chippewa, when it was ascertained that the whole British force, under Gen. Riall, had crossed the Chippewa bridge. Gen. Brown gave immediate orders to Gen. Scott to advance with his brigade, and to Gen. Ripley to be in readiness to support. In a few minutes the British line was dis- covered formed and rapidly advancing, their right on the woods, and- their left on the river. Their object was to gain the bridge across a small creek in front of the American encampment, which, if done would have compelled the Americans to retire. This bridge, how- ever, was soon gained by Gen. Scott and crossed, un- der a tremendous fire of the British artillery, and his line formed. The British orders were to give one vol- ley at a distance, and immediately charge. But such was the warmth of our musquetry that they could not withstand it, and were obliged to retreat before the ap- pearance of Ripley's brigade, which had been directed to make a movement through the woods upon the ene- my's right flank. The British recrossed the Chippewa bridge, which they broke down on their retreat, having suffered a loss in killed, wounded and missing, of 514. The American loss was 323. Chippewa Village is one mile north of the battle ground. It contains a small cluster of buildings and a few mills situate on the Chippewa creek, which runs through the village. The ■.team-boat from Buffalo lands passengers at this place. One mile farther is fi66 BRIDGEWATER. Bridgewater or Lundy's Lane, celebrated as the ground on which an important battle was fought, 20 days after the battle at Chippewa. The scene of action was near the mighty cataract of Niagara, and within the sound of its thunders, and was, in proportion to the numbers engaged, the most sanguinary, and decidedly the best fought of any action which ever took place on the American continent. The following letter, written by a surgeon of one of the regiments, the day after the engagement, contains many interesting particulars : " In the afternoon the enemy advanced towards Chippewa with a powerful force. At 6 o'clock Gen. Scott was ordered to advance with his brigade and at- tack them. He was soon reinforced by General Rip- ley's brigade; they met the enemy below the falls. They had selected their ground for the night, intend- ing to attack our camp before day -light. The action began just before 7, and an uninterrupted stream of musketry continued till half past 8, when there was some cessation, the British falling back. It soon be- gan again with some artillery, which, with slight inter- ruptions, continued till half past 10, when there was a charge, and a tremendous stream of fire closed the con- flict. Both armies fought with a desperation bordering on madness ; neither would yieid the palm, but each retired a short distance, wearied out with fatigue. Such a constant and destructive fire was never before sustained by American troops without falling back. "The enemy had collected their whole force in the peninsula, and were reinforced by troops from Lord Wellington's army, just landed from Kingston. For two hours the two hostile lines were within 20 yards of J'llDGEWATER. 267 equently intermingled, that often an omcer wouia order an enemy's platoon. The moon shone bright ; but part of our men being dressed like the Glengarian regiment caused the deception. They frequently charged, and were as often driven back. Our regiment, under Colonel Miller, was ordered to storm the British battery. We charged, and took eve- ry piece of the enemy's cannon. We kept possession of the ground and cannon until 12 o'clock at night, when we all fell back more than 2 miles. Tliis was done to secure our camp, which might otherwise have been attacked in the rear. Our horses being most of them killed, and there being no ropes to the pieces, we got off but two or three. The men were so excessive- ly fatigued they could not drag them. We lost one howitzer, the horses being on full gallop towards the enemy to attack them, the riders were shot off and the horses ran through the enemy's line. We lost one piece of cannon, which was too much advanced, every man being shot that had charge of it, but two. Sever- al of our caissons were blown up by their rockets, which did some injury, and deprived our cannon of ammunition. The lines were so near that cannon could not be used with advantage." The British loss in killed, wounded and prisoners was 878 ; and the American loss 860. The road to the falls passes directly over the hill where the British artillery were posted at the time Scott's brigade commenced the action ; and the hou- ses in the village of Bridgcwater — the trees and fences in the vicinity, still retain marks of the combat. Many graves are seen upon the hill j among others, that of 2^B NIAGARA FALLS. Capt. Hull, son of the late Gen. Hull, who distinguish- ed himself and fell in this action. Most of the slain were collected and burned upon the battle ground ; on which spot it is in contemplation to erect a church. Burning Spring. About half a mile north of Lundy's Lane, and within a few feet of the rapids in the Niagara river, is a Burn- ing Spring. The water is warm and surcharged with sulphuretted hydrogen gas. The water rises in a bar- rel, which is covered, and the gas escapes through a tube. On applying a candle to the tube, the gas takes fire, and burns with a brilliant flame until blown out ; and on closing the building for a short time in which tlie spring is contained, and afterwards entering it with a lighted candle, an explosion may be produced. A small fee for the exhibition is required by the keeper of the spring. Half a mile from the Burning Spring are the cele- brated NIAGARA FALLS. They are situated on the Niagara River, which unites the waters of Lake Erie and the upper lakes with Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence. The river is 35 miles in length, and from 1-2 mile to 5 or 6 in width. The banks of the river vary in their height above the Falls, from 4 to 100 feet. Immediately below the Falls the precipice is not less than 300 feet, and from thence to lake Ontario gradually diminishes to the height of 25 or 30 feet. The Niagara river contains a number of islands, the principal of which is Grand Island, which wa3 ceded to the state of New- York by the Seneca Na- NIAGARA FALLS. 269 tion of Indians, in 1815. For the grant the state paid ^1000 down, and secured an annuity of S500. This island is 12 miles long, and from 2 to 7 broad. The Falls are situated below Grand Island, about 20 miles distant from Lake Erie, and 14 from Lake Onta- rio. At Chippewa creek, 2 miles above the Falls, the width of the river is nearly 2 miles, and its current ex- tremely rapid. From thence to the Falls it gradually narrows to about 1 mile in width. The descent of the rapids has been estimated at 58 feet. The course of the river above the Falls is north-westwardly, and be- low it turns abruptly to the north-east, and flows about a mile and a half, when it assumes a northern direction to Lake Ontario. The cataract pours over a summit in the form of a crescent, extending some distance up the stream. The sheet of water is separated by Goat Island, leaving the grand fall on the Canada side, about 600 yards wide, and the high fall on the American side, about 300. The fall en the American side drops al- most perpendicularly to the distance of 164 feet. The grand or horse-shoe fall, on the Canada side, descends to the river below in the form of a curve, 158 feet, pro- jecting about 50 feet from the base. The whole height, including the descent of the rapids above, is 216 feet. 0)1 the Canada strfe, The view from the table rock, has been generally considered preferable ; but this point must be decided by the different tastes of visitors. The table rock pro- jects about 50 feet, and between it and the Falls an ir- regular arch is formed, which extends under the pitch, almost without interruption, to the island. The de- 370 NIAGARA FALLS. scent from the table rock is by means of a spiral Btair-way, which is enclosed. Visitants desirous of passing in the rear of the great sheet of water, are supplied by the keeper of the stairs with dresses for that purpose, and with a guide. On reaching the bot- tom, a rough path winds along the foot of the precipice and leads under the excavated bank, which, in one place, overhangs about 40 feet. The entrance into the tremendous ^cavern behind the falling sheet should never be attempted by persons of weak nerves. The humidity of the atmosphere, which, at times, almost prevents respiration ; the deafening roar of the foaming torrent, and the sombre appearance of surrounding ob- jects, is oftentimes calculated to unnerve the stoutest frame. The farthest distance that can be approached, is to what is called Termination Rock, 153 feet from the commencement of the volume of water at Table Rock. Few, however, have the courage to proceed that dis- tance ; and seldom go farther than 100 feet. A large crack in the table rock, which has increased annually for some years, renders it very certain that a considerable proportion will ere long fall into the abyss below. The part thus cracked is nearly 50 feet in width, and might be blasted off without difficul- ty. The height of tliis rock has been ascertained to be 163 feet ; while that of the Falls, measuring from the bridge near the terrapin rocks, has proved to be 158 feet 4 inches. The Pavilion, kept by Mr. Forsyth, on the Canada side, is on a lofty eminence above the Falls ; affording from its piazzas and roof a beautiful prospect of the surrounding scenery. It is a handsomely constructed NIAGARA FALLS. 271 building, and can accommodate from 100 to 150 guests. Row boats are continually crossing the river about a quarter of a mile below the falls. The rapidity of the current, the numerous eddies, and the agitated ap- pearance of the water, are calculated to impress a stranger with an idea, that a passage is hazardous. But we believe few, if any accidents have ever happen- jed. The boatmen are skilful, and the crossing is gen- erally effected in about 15 minutes. The Falls on the American side^ Though less gigantic, are nevertheless beautiful; and would alone be considered one of the greatest nat- ural curiosities in the world. A flight of stairs has been sonstructed from the bank a few rods below the fall to the bottom. In consequence of a rocky barrier in front of the falling sheet, it can be approached to within a few feet ; though not without encountering a plentiful shower of the spray. About a quarter of a mile above the fall, a bridge has been constructed from the shore to Bath Island ; M'hich is connected by means of another bridge with Goat Island. The sen- sation in crossing these bridges, and particularly the first,* over the tremendous rapids beneath, is calculat- * Gen. Peter B. Porter, of Black Rock, to whom the public are indebted for the construction of this bridge, informed me that its erection was not effected without considerable danger. Two large trees, hewed to cor- respond with their shape, were first constructed into a temporary bridge, the buts fastened to the shore, with the lightest ends projecting over the rapids. At the extremity of the projection, a small butment of stone Y 272 HIAGARA FALLSr cd to alarm the traveller for his safety, and hasten hin» in hia excursion to the Island. On Bath Island, mills have been erected, contiguous to what is termed the tace-toay, which divides Bath from Goat Island. The latter, which is 330 yards broad, is principally a wilder- ness. On the southern and western banks an exten- sive view is had of the rapids above and of the grand fall on the Canada side. But the best view of the lat- ter is obtained from a small bridge which has been erected from the island to the Terrapin rocks, adjoining the falls, 300 feet from the shore. From the end of this bridge, which is placed on the very verge of the precipice, the frightful abyss, covered with a foam of snowy whiteness, is seen beneath. No one can wit- ness it at first, without involuntarily shrinking back, A fear that the frail structure on which he stands may possibly give way, induces him to retrace his steps with as little delay as practicable ; and it is not until after repeated visits, that this alarm wholly subsides. At the foot of Iris Island (adjoining Goat Island) is what is called the Biddle stair-way, erected by N. Bid- was at first placed in the river, and when this became secure, logs were sunk around it, locked in such a manner as to form a frame, which was filled with stone. A bridge was then made to this but ment, the tempora- ry bridge shoved forward, and another butment form- ed, until the whole was completed. One man fell into the rapids during the work. At first, owing to the ve- locity with which he was carried forward, he was un- able to hold upon the projecting rocks ; but through great bodily exertions to lessen the motion, by swim- ming against the current, he was enabled to seize up- on a rock, from which he was taken by means of a ropes. NIAGARA FALLS. 273 DIE, Esq. president of the U. S. Bank. This affords a safe and easy passage to a position more favorable than any other, for viewing this stupendous work of nature. The elevation of the island above the margin of the river or basin below, is 185 feet. The descent of the first 40 feet is effected by a flight of steps, com- mencing in the interior of the island, and descending on an inclined plane to the brow of the perpendicular work, through a dugway walled on both sides ; the second flight is by a spiral stair v/ay of 88 steps, down a perpendicular building in the shape of a hexigon, rest- ing on a firm foundation — the whole handsomely en- closed. From the foot of this building to the river be- low, (about 80 feet) are three paths formed of stone steps, and leading to the water in different directions.* The amount of water which passes over the respec- tive falls, has been estimated by Dr. D wight at more than 100 millions of tons an hour. No method can be devised for ascertaining the depth at the principal fall ; but it is not improbable that it may be 6 or 800 feet ; as the depth of the stream half a mile below is from 250 to 260 feet. To a stranger who shall examine the rapids above the falls, it will seem incredible that Goat Island should ever have been visited previous to the construction of the bridge. Yet as early as 1765,1 seveal French offi- * It was from ladders erected at this place that the celebrated Sam Patch made a descent of 118 feet into the water below a short time previous to his fatal jump at Rochester in the fall of 1829. t Trees marked 1765 and 1769, are still to be seen on the island. 274 NIAGARA FALLS. cers were conveyed to it by Indians in canoes, care^ fully dropping down the river ; and it is but a few years since Gen. Porter, of Black Rock, with some oth- er gentlemen, also made a trip to the Island in a boat. They found but little difficulty in descending ; but their return was difficult and hazardous. It was effected by shoving the boat with setting poles up the most shal- low part of the current, for half a mile, before making for the shore. Falling into the current, within a mile of the falls, is considered fatal. Several accidents of this kind have happened; and no one, (save in the instance men- tioned in a preceding page,) has ever reached the shore. Many bodies have been found below the falls — those that have fallen in the centre of the stream, without any external marks of injury; and those that have fallen near the shore, much lacerated and disfigured. The latter has probably been occasioned by coming in contact with rocks in shallow water, before reaching the cataract. It is but a few years ' since an Indian, partially intoxicated, in attempting to cross the river near Chippewa, was forced near the rapids ; when finding all efforts to regain the shore unavailing, he lay down in his canoe, and was soon plunged into the tre- mendous vortex below. He was never seen after- wards. There are two large boarding establishments on the American side, in what is called the village of Man- chester. The Eagle Tavern kept by Gen. Whitney, is the oldest, and is entitled to a full share of patronage. The other has been recently erected, and is a handsome WELLAND CANAL. 275 building, with pleasant and airy apartments. The vil- lage was burnt by the British in 1S13 ; but it has been rebuilt, and though small, is larger than it was previ- ous to that event. In giving a general description of the Falls, we have, in crossing to the American side, diverged from our pro- posed route. While on the Canada shore, it is reccom- mended to tourists to visit the Deep Cut on the AVel- land canal, eight miles west of the Falls ; return ; pro- ceed down the Niagara river through Queenston to Fort George or Newark ; cross over to Fort Niagara or Youngstown, and proceed up the river, through Lewis- ton, to Manchestei". For a short excursion, there are many objects of attraction on this route, which are no- ticed hereafter. The Welland Canal unites the waters of Lakes Erie and Ontario, and is constructed for sloops of 125 tons burthen. The canal commences at Port Mait- land, at the mouth of Grand river on Lake Erie, 40 miles west of Buffalo, and follows the channel of that stream nearly a mile and a half, and thence up Broad creek nearly a mile, where the artificial channel com- mences by a cut of 10 miles through a marsh. It then proceeds down Mill creek 2 1-2 miles until it intersects the Welland river, into which it descends by a lock of eight feet lift ; thence a towing path is con- structed along the banks 10 miles — the marsh excava- tion from 10 to 16 feet. From Welland river the canal runs in a northerly direction winding up a ravine 66 chains, having 8 or 10 feet cutting ; where commences X t2 276 WELLAND CANAL. the deep cutting or dividing vidge, an almost abrupt height of 27 feet above the canal bottom. It thence runs gradually to 5G feet 6 inches in a distance of 100 chains ; thence descends to 30 feet in 28 chains, which as abruptly breaks off in another ravine ; whole dis- tance through the deep cut 1 mile 54 chains; average depth 44 feet. To the depth of from 12 to 18 feet from the surface, it is a compound of clay, mixed with sand, and below this a tenaceous blue clay. From the termina- tion of the deep cut to that part where the mountain de- scends, is a distance of 4 miles and 23 chains, to lock No. 1 as it is called, although it is properly lock No. 2. From lock No. 1 the canal continues in a ravine 53 chains, gradually descending by 4 locks of 22 feet width ; and thence for 1 mile and 55 chains it winds around the brow of a hill. There are 17 locks in this distance, and 60,000 yards of rock excavation. From this place the canal enters another ravine to St. Catha- rine's, a distance of 2 1-2 miles, in which there are 12 locks. This may be termed the mountain descent, as in a distance of 4 miles and 72 1-2 chains from lock No. 1, there are 32 locks, with a declination of 322 feet, 22 feet wide and 100 feet in the pool. From this to lake Ontario, a distance of 5 miles, the canal is mostly in the bed of the Twelve Mile creek. There are three locks in this section, including the one at the harbor, each 32 feet wide and 125 feet long ; and five positions are taken for dams, one of which is 23 feet high. The whole length of this canal is 43 1-2 miles, a lit- tle more than 19 of which are slack water j the total amount of lockage 334 feet. i BATTLE OF t^UEENSTON. 277 The Deep Cut is considered the most gigantic artifi- cial work in America, if we except the Desague near Mexico ; and, with the precipice of locks which de- scend the mountain ridge, forms altogether one of the most interesting improvements of the age. The Canadians anticipate important results to their trade through the medium of this canal ; and numerous villages are already springing up on its borders. Some parts of New- York wall also share largely in its benefits, particularly the towns bordering on Lake Ontario. From the Falls on the Canada side to Queenston the distance is 7 miles, over a good road which passes the former residence of the Duke of Richmond, since owned by Sir Perregrine Maitland. Queenston lies on the bank of the Niagara, and has Uttle in its appear- ance indicating a prosperous or thriving village. The battle of Q,ueenston which was fought at this place, occurred on the 13th of Oct. 1812. Gen. Van Rens- selaer, who had command of the American troops at Lewiston, on the opposite side of the river, determined on crossing over and taking possession of Queenston heights. The crossing was effected before day light ; and the ascent, which was up a precipitous ravine, ri- sing nearly 300 feet above the river, was accomplished amid the fire of the enemy from his breast works on the heights. As the Americans approached, the British retreated to the village below ; where their comman- dant, Gen. Brock, in forming his lines to reascend the heights, was mortally wounded by a random shot. His aid, Col. M'Donald, then took command and as- cended the heights, where he was also wounded mor- tally. The Americans continued in possesion but a few hours, when they recrossed the river. The pickets 278 brock's monument. and breast works, though in a state of decay, are still visible. The spot on which Brock fell is pointed out to stran- gers. It was in a small field, since called Brock's lot ; and is reserved for the erection of a church at a future period. BROCK'S MONUMENT Is on the heights, one fourth of a mile southwest of the village of Queenston. It is composed of free stone ; and, excepting the base, is of a spiral form. It is a fine specimen of architecture ; and from its ele- vation, is seen for a great many miles. Its height is 126 feet ; and the heights on which it is erected, are 270 feet above the level of the Niagara river. The as- cent to the top of the monument, is by means of wind- ing steps, 170 in number. It is extremely fatiguing; but the prospect aflforded of the surrounding country for 50 miles in extent, will richly repay a tourist for the time and trouble in visiting its pinnacle. The follow- ing inscription appears on the monument : " The Legislature of Upper Canada has dedicated this monument to the many civil and military services of the late Sir Isaac Brock, Knight, Commander of the most honoroble Order of the Bath, Provincial Lieut. Governor and Major General, commanding his Majes- ty's forces therein. He fell in action on the 13th of October, 1812, honored and beloved by those whom he governed, and deplored by his Sovereign, to whose ser- vice his life had been devoted. His remains are depos- ited in this vault, as also his aid-de-camp, Lieut. Colo« nel John M'Donald, who died of his wounds the 14th of October, 1812, received the day before in action." I LEWISTON. 279 Fort George, or Newark, is 7 miles north of Queenston, and is located at the entrance of the Niaga- ra river into Lake Ontario. The village was burnt du- the last war ; which event was followed by the burn- ing of several frontier villages on the American shore, as retaliatory. Fort George, near the village, is the most prominent, and perhaps the only object of interest presented. It is in a state of tolerable preservation, and has generally, since the war, been occupied as a garrison by a small number of soldiers. The river is crossed in a horse boat, to YouNGSTOwN, containing from 40 to 50 houses, one mile north of which, and directly opposite Newark, is Fort Niagara.* It was built by the French in 1725, passed into British hands by the conquest of Canada, and was surrendered to the U. States in 1796. It was taken by the British by surprise during the last war, and abandoned on the restoration of peace. The works are now in a state of decay. Lewiston is 7 miles south of Youngstown, and is du-ectly opposite the village of Queenston. It is locat- ed at the foot and termination of the Mountain Ridge, or alluvial way, (noticed hereafter,) and at the head of navigation on the Niagara liver. With the other fron- tier villages, it was laid in ruins during the late war, and was deserted by its inhabitants, from Dec. 1813, to April, 1815 ; but it is now in a flourishing condition, and its buildings exhibit much taste and neatness. A * This is tlie place wliere the celebrated William Morgan was confined after his abduction. 280 LEVVISTON. ferry is established between this place and Queenston. While standing on the lofty bank, the rapid motion of the river, with its various eddies, are far from inviting, and seem to forbid the idea of a pleasant passage : but these sensations are removed soon after entering the boat. It is carried down for a considerable dis- tance with much rapidity, but without danger. — Every appearance confirms the supposition, that at this place the falls once poured their immense volumes of water, but by a constant abrasion of the cataract, have reced- ed to their present position, 7 miles distant. Stages leave Lewiston every morning at 4 o'clock for Rochester, distant 80 miles, passing on the Ridge Road, or alluvial way,* and reach Rochester at even- * This ridge extends along the south shore of Lake Ontario, from the Genesee river to Niagara river, a dis- tance of about 80 miles. The road is handsomely arch- ed in the centre, and is generally from 4 to 8 rods wide. In some places it is elevated 120 or 130 feet above the level of the lake, from which it is distant from 6 to 10 miles. The first 40 miles from Lewiston, of this natur- al highway, is broken for a considerable extent, by log roads or causeways, bordered by impervious forests, occasionally relieved by the temporary huts of the re- cent settlers ; but the remaining distance is unusually level, and, with some intermissions, bordered by a line of cultivation. It is generally beheved that this was once the southern boundary of the lake, and that the ridge was occasioned by the action of the water. The gravel and smooth stones of which the ridge is com* posed, intermingled with a great variety of shells, leave little room to doubt the correctness of this opinion. It is a great natural curiosity, and should be travelled over by the tourist in going to or returning from the Falls. devil's hole. 281 mg. Fare $3,25. Stages, also run to Lockport every day, distant 20 miles, passing through the Tuscarora village, occupied by a tribe of Indians of that name.* In pursuing the route from Lewiston to the Feills on the American side, the traveller soon begins to climb the height or mountain describing the difference of al- titude between Lakes Ontario and Erie. The ascent is somewhat precipitous, but is overcome without difficul- ty. At the distance of two miles, the top is gained, and affords an imposing prospect of the almost inter- minable expanse below. The course of the mighty Niagara is easily traced to its outlet ; where, from their prominence, are distinctly seen. Forts Niagara and George. The waters of the distant lake and the sur- rounding plains are so charmingly picturesque, that the traveller withdraws reluctantly, even to participate in the enjoyment of scenes more sublime. Three and a half miles from Lewiston is what is called the Devil's Hole, a most terrific gulph, formed by a chasm in the eastern bank of the Niagara, 150 or 200 feet deep. An angle of this gulph is within a few feet of the road ; affording to the passing traveller, without alighting, an opportunity of looking into the yawning * Doct. Spafford, in his Gazetteer of New- York, re- marks, that this tribe came from N. Carolina about 1712, and joined the confederacy of the Five Nations, themselves making the Sixth. They still hold an in- terest in a very large and valuable tract of land in N. Carolina, which will not be extinct before A. D. 1911. They also own a very considerable tract of land in this state, deeded to them by the Holland Company. 282 LAKE ONTARIO. abyss beneath. During the French war, a detachment of the British army, while retreating from Schlosser in the night, before a superior force of French and Indians, were destroyed at this place. Officers, soldiers, wo- men and children, with their horses, waggons, bag- gage, &c. were all precipitated down the gulph. Those who were not drowned in the river were dashed in pieces on the naked rocks ! The Whirlpool is one mile farther south. It is formed by a short turn in the river, and can be viewed on either side ; though the best view, connected with the rapids, is on the American shore. One mile far- ther, is a Sulphur Spring, used principally for bathing. The American Fall at Manchester, is a mile and a half farther, and has been already noticed in this work. LAKE ONTARIO. This lake is in length 171 miles, and in circumference 467. In many places its depth has not been ascertain- ed. In the middle a line of 350 fathoms has been let down without finding bottom. Of the many islands which this lake contains, the principal is Grand Isle, opposite to Kingston. At this place the lake is about 10 miles in width, and from thence it gradually con- tracts until it reaches Brockville, a distance of about 50 miles, where its width is not over 2 miles. About 40 miles of this distance is filled with a continued cluster of small islands, which from their number have been distinguished by the name of the Thousand Islands. Though inferior in its extent to the remaining 4 great western lakes, Ontario is far from being the least inter- ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL. 283 esting. The north-east shore of the lake consists prin- cipally of low land, and is in many places marshy. On the north and north-west it is more elevated, and grad- ually subsides towards the south. The margin of the lake is generally bordered by thick forests, through which are occasionally seen little settlements surround- ed with rich fields of cultivation, terminated by lofty ridges of land here and there assuming the character of mountains. Some of the highest elevations of land are the cliffs of Torento, the Devil's Nose, and the Fif- ty Mile Hill. The principal rivers which empty into the lake on the south, are the Genesee and Oswego. York, Kingston and Sacket's Harbour, all situated on the borders of the lake, are well known in connexion with the history of the late war. ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL. By the present arrangement, the British steam boats leave Queenston for Prescott, on Lake Ontario, every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 8 A. M. touching at York, Kingston and Brockville — fare $10. From Prescott a stage is taken for Cornwall, 50 miles ; from thence a steam boat to Coteau du Lac, 4 miles ; from thence a coach to the Cascades, 16 miles ; from thence a steam-boat to Lachine 24 miles ; and from thence a coach to Montreal, 9 miles. The American boat leaves Lewiston every Monday for Ogdensburgh, distant 268 miles, touching at Fort Niagara, Genesee river, Oswego, Sacket's Harbor, Cape Vincent, French creek and Morristown. From Ogdensburgh, a stage is generally taken for Montreal ; though passage boats, which descend as far as Lachine, are sometimes preferred. z 284 CHARLOTTE — OSWEGO. From Lewiston to Montreal is 385 miles, and the intervening distances are estimated as follows : Miles. Miles. Fort Niagara, 7 Genesee River, 74 Great Sodus Bay, .... 35 Oswego River, 28 Sacket's Harbor, .... 40 Cape Vincent, 20 Morristown, 50 Ogdensburgh, 12 Gallop Islands, 5 Hamilton, 19 St. Regis, 35 La Chine, 53 Montreal, 7 Fort Niagara, 7 miles from Lewiston. (See p. 279.) Charlotte, at the mouth of the Genesee river, 74 miles from Lewiston, is a port of entry where there is a light-house, and the commencement of extensive piers building by the United States, for improving the navigation. The river is navigable to the Carthage falls,* 4 miles ; from thence to Rochester* is 2 miles ; to which place passengers can always be conveyed by stages in readiness on the arrival of the boat. Great Sodtts Bay, 35 miles. This embraces East, Port and Little Sodus Bays, and has three islands of considerable size. The whole circumference of the bay, with its coves and points, is about 15 miles. Its waters are deep and clear, and its shores have several elegant sites for buildings. Oswego, 28 miles. This village is situate at the mouth of the Oswego river ; and within a few years has rapidly increased in size and population. The falls in the river at this place afford extensive facilitie?^ + For a description of these places, see pages 250 to 255. racket's harbor MORRISTOWN. 285 lor manufacturing operations ; added to which, what is called the Oswego canal here terminates, uniting with the Erie canal at Syracuse, 38 miles distant. An extensive pier has been recently erected here, affording a safe and beautiful harbor for boats and sloops. Forts Oswego and Ontario are at this place. The first was erected in 1727, and the latter in 1755. Both were besieged by Gen. Montcalm in 1756, with 3000 troops and two vessels. Fort Ontario was soon evacuated by the English, which was followed by the surrender of Fort Oswego, with a large quantity of stores, cannon, two sloops and nearly 200 boats. The position, however, having been held a short time by the French, was abandoned. During the last war, the place was taken by the British, after a loss of about 100 men ; but was evac- uated immediately afterwards. Sacket's Harbor, 40 miles. This was an import- ant military and naval station during the last war. The Barracks are situate about 400 yards north-easter- ly of the village on the shore. They are a solid range of stone buildings, and add much to the appearance of the place. Two forts erected during the war are now in ruins. On Navy-Point, which forms the harbor, there is a large ship of war on the stocks ; but which, proba- bly, will never be finished. Cape Vincent, 20 miles. Kingston in Upper Can- ada, is on the opposite side of the lake, 11 miles distant, with Grand Island intervening. MoRRSTOwN, 50 miles. The river here is but a mile and a quarter wide ; on the opposite side of which, is the village of Brockville. 286 OGDENSBURGH. Ogdensburgh, which terminates the passage of the steam-boat, is 12 miles farther, and is situated on tlie east side of the Oswegatche river, at its confluence with the St. Lawrence. This is a thriving little village, containing about 200 houses, and a population of about 1000 inhabitants. A military fortification, consisting of two stone buildings and a number of wooden bar- racks was formerly erected here by the British gov- ernment, but was ceded to the United States in 1796. A regular stage leaves Ogdensburgh three times a week for Plattsburgh ; from whence a steam-boat can be taken on Lake Champlain for St. John's or White- hall. Stages also arrive and depart every week, to and from Montreal ; and by crossing the river, a stage can be taken at Prescott for that place daily. Passage boats, also, leave Ogdensburgh about every day, and descend the river as far as La Chine, 7 miles above Montreal, in 3 days. The boats are usually furnished with every necessary implement for their good management, and with skilful pilots. The latter are more particularly re- quisite, as the current of the St. Lawrence is generally very rapid, and obstructed by numerous shoals and is- lands, which by an inexperienced navigator could not without difficulty be avoided. The principal rapids are three in number — the Longue Sault, the Rapids of the Cedars* and the Cascades of St. Louis. The first of *It was at this place that Gen. Amherst's brigade of 300 men, coming to attack Canada, were lost. The French at Montreal received the first intelligence of the invasion, by the dead bodies floating past the town. - GALLOP ISLANDS. 287 these are 9 miles in length, and are usually passed in 20 minutes, which is at the rate of 27 miles an hour. The rapids of the Cedars terminate about 3 miles from the Cascades, which, after a broken course of about 2 miles, pour their foaming waters into Lake St. Louis, Lake St. Francis, on the St. Lawrence, is 25 miles long, and its greatest breadth 1 5. The borders of the lake are so low that they can scarcely be distinguished in passing along its centre. At the northern extremity of Lake St, Francis, on its south side, is situated the vil- lage of St. Regis, through which passes the boundary line between the Canadas and the United States. The banks of the St. Lawrence exhibit a country re- markably fertile, and in many places under good culti- vation. The first settlements in this region commenced in 1783, and though scarcely 50 years have elapsed, it now exhibits many of the embellishments incident to a nu- merous population and successful improvement. The perpetual varying scenery along its banks, occasionally diversified with smiling fields and flourishing villages, together with the islands and rapids of the St. Law- rence, present a succession of novelties with which the traveller cannot fad to be gratified. Gallop Islands, 5 miles from Ogdensburgh. The river is here divided into two currents, the commence- ment of the great rapids below. From these rapids. The pilot who conducted their first batteaux commit- ted an error by running into the wrong channel, and the other batteau following close, all were involved in the same destruction. z2 288 MONTREAL. the river descends 231 feet in 280 miles. On Staney Island, (one of the Gallop cluster,) the French had a strong fortress, which was taken and demolished by Gen. Amherst, in 1760. St. Regis, 54 miles, is a village occupied by a tribe of Indians of that name, who have a reservation of land here of considerable extent. One of their chiefs, aged about 90, remarked to a gentleman of our accquaint- ance a short time since, that he visited the High Rock Spring at Saratoga between 60 and 70 years ago, when the walcr flowed over the top of the aperture.* Lachine, 53 miles. From thence to Montreal, which is 7 miles farther, the river road is generally preferred ; from which a charming view of the rapids and of sever- al islands is enjoyed. It also crosses the Lachine ca- nal. MONTREAL Is situated on the south side of the island of the same name, 131 miles from Ogdensburgh, and 170 from Quebec. The length of the island is 30 miles, its mean breadth 7, and its circumference about 70. The city extends along the St. Lawrence, about 2 miles in length, and half a mile in width. The buildings are mostly constructed of stone, and arranged on regularly disposed but narrow streets. A stone wall formerly encircled the city, which, l)y the sanction of the gov- *No one living near the Spring remembers to have seen the water rise higher than within S or 10 inches of the top of the rock. At present it is considerably lower. MONTREAL. 289 crnment, was some years ago totally demolished. Montreal is divided into the upper and lower towns. The latter of these contains the Hotel Dieu, founded in 1644, and under a superior and thirty nuns, whose occupation is to administer relief to the sick, who are received into that hospital. The French government formerly contributed to the support of this institution ; but since the revolution which occasioned the loss of its principal funds, then vested in Paris, its resources have been confined to the avails of some property in land. The upper town contains the Cathedral, the English Church, the Seminary, the Convent of Recol- lets, and that of the Sisters of Notre Dame. The general hospital, or Convent of the Grey Sisters, is sit- uated on the banks of the St. Lawrence, a little distance from the town, from wliich it is separated by a small riv- ulet. This institution was established in 1753, and is under the management of a superior and 19 nuns. Some of the public buildings are beautiful. Among these, the new Catholic Churchy in grandeur, capacious- ness, style and decoration, is probably not exceeded by any edifice in America. It is 255 feet long, and 34 feet wide, and is sufficiently capacious to hold 10,000 per- sons. J^elsoti's Monument, near the Market Place, is an ob- ject also meriting an accurate survey. The Museum belonging to the Society of Jstatural His- tory contains a numerous assemblage of indigenous and exotic specimens, an examination of which will prove highly interesting to visitors of taste and science. 290 MONTREAL. A visit to the Nunneries can generally be effected without difficulty ; though a trifling purchase of some of the manufactures of the nuns is generally expected. The College is a large stone edifice, 3 stories high, and has a spacious yard on the south, adjoining to which is a beautiful garden. It generally contains about 300 students, and the terms of tuition are 80 dol- lars per annum. Connected with the college there is also a preparatory school, under excellent regulations. The Parade is a beautiful public ground on which the troops are usually drilled. The prevailing religion here, as well as at Quebec, is the Roman Catholic. The clergy derive a revenue from grants of land made to them under the ancient regime, and from contributions ordained by the church. Be- sides these, a principal source of revenue is from the fines for alienation, which amoimt to about 8 per cent, paid by the purchaser of real estate, every time the same is sold, and which extends to sales of all real es- tates in the seignory or island of Montreal. The city, including its subburbs, contains rising of 30,000 inhabitants. The Mountain of Montreal, from which the city takes its name, rises about 2 1-2 miles distant. It is elevat- ed 700 feet above the level of the river, and extends from north to south 2 miles. This spot has already been selected for the residence of some private gentle- men, whose elegant white mansions appear beautiful in contrast with the surrounding foliage. The island of St. Helena, immediately opposite the city, is a de- lightful little spot, from whence is had a fine view of Montreal, with its lofty mountain in Uie back ground. FROM MONTREAL TO Q,UEBEC. 291 the settlement of Longueil, St. Lambert and La Prairie de la Madalene, on the east side of the river, and the waters of the St. Lawrence, dashing over the rocks of La Chine, and sweeping their course around a variety of islands. The principal public houses in the city are, Masonic Hall, in the north part ; Goodenough's, St. Paul street j and Mansion-House, do. FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC— 170 miles. The St. Lawrence from Montreal to Quebec is navi- gated by a number of excellent steam-boats, and the passage between the two cities is delightful. A large majority of the inhabitants of Lower Canada are crowd- ed together near the shores of the St. Lawrence, and few interruptions of forrest land intervene in the whole distance between the two principal cities. The dwell- ings and cultivated grounds are so frequent and con- tinuous, that each side of the river, in fact, becomes al- most an unbroken street ; with groupes of houses in the vicinity of the several churches, which are erected generally in sight of the passing steam-boat, except on Lake St. Peter. The churches are from six to nine miles distant from each other, and upwards of twenty in number, forming, many of them, prominent objects to give embellishment and charm to the novel and otherwise very attractive scenery. All travelleres sleep one night at least on board the steam-boat while journeying be- tween the two cities j and it is recommended that they should arrange the hour of departure from Quebec, (which is always at low water) so that they may view f)y day-light that part of the river which had been be« -292 WILLIAM HENRY. fore passed in the night. A journey to Quebec and back again, which ten or twelve years since was the labor of some weeks, may now be accomplished, by means of steam-boats, in less than three days. The distance between the two cities is 170 miles. From Montreal, the boat first passes near the Fort on St. Helen's Island and soon enters the rapids of St. Mary ; in returning up which, steam-boats are often drawn by cattle. Proceeding down the river, the vil- lages of Longueil, Longue Pointe, Vercheres, Varennes, Point aux Trembles, Contrecoeur, Repentigny, St. Sal- pice, La Morage, Berthier and Machiche are succes- sively passed, before reaching the town of William Henry, which is 40 miles from Montreal. It stands on the site of an old fort, built in 1665, on the right bank of the river Sorel, at its confluence with the St. Lawrence. The present town was commenc- ed in 1785. It is regularly laid out with streets, cross- ing each other at right angles, leaving a space in the centre about 500 feet square. The number of dwell- ings does not exceeed 200, and its population 2000. Near the town is a seat which was formerly the resi- dence of the Governor General of Canada, during the summer months. Opposite the to^vn, the river Sorel is 250 yards broad, and is navigable for vessels of 150 tons, for twelve or fourteen miles. On this river, which unites the waters of Lake Champlain with the St. Lawrence, are two considerable forts, the one at St. John's and the other at Chambly. Sorel was occu- pied in May, 1776, by a part of the American army, under General Thomas, on their retreat from Quebec. THREE RIVERS. 293 Lake St. Peler, some miles below the town of Sorei, is formed by an expansion of the river St. Lawrence, to 15 or 20 miles in width, and 21 in length. The wa- ters of the lake have but little current, and are from 8 to 1 1 feet deep. At the upper end of the lake a varie- ty of small islands are interspersed, which are the on- ly ones that occur in the St. Lawrence till you reach the island of Orleans, a distance of 117 miles. On the north side of this lake is the town of Three Rivers, at the mouth of the St. Maurice, %vhichis divided by two small islands into three branch- es. This town was formerly the seat of the Colonial Government, and is now considered the third in im- portance in the Province. It contains about 400 houses, including a Roman Catholic and an Episcopal church, and a Convent of UrsUlines — also the barracks former- ly occupied by the governor, during the French regime. The number of inhabitants is estimated at 3000. Some miles up the St. Maurice are the celebrated falls of Shawinnegame, a beautiful cataract of about 100 feet descent. Seven miles below Three Rivers, the Richelieu rapids commence. The river is compressed within less than half a mile in width, and the water moves with great velocity for three or four miles ; but being deep and the current unbroken, except at the shores, the descent is made by steam-boats without danger, except in the the night, when a descent is never attempted. The scenery of the St. Lawrence is occasionally re- lieved by the prospect of the distant mountains, the highest of which does not exceed 1000 feet, but rising in the back ground of the cultivated vales along the 294 QUEBEC. borders of the river, give an additional degtee of beauty and novelty to many of its landscapes. The alternate variety of the waters of the St. Lawrence, now repos- ing in stillness on the bosom of an expanded lake, and now rushing with the rapidity of a cataract, added to the pleasing effect of the landscape scenery, afford an agreeable repast to the tourist, until he reaches the classic scenes of Quebec. Soon after leaving Cape Rouge and the little village of St. Nicholas, near the mouth of the Chaudiere river, the towers and citadel of this famous city open to view, situated on a rock of 345 feet in height, called Cape Diamond, from the gem-like quality of the chrystals which are found in- termingled with the granite beneath its surface. In approaching the city, you pass Sillery River and Cove> and Wolfe's Cove, where he landed his army to gain the heights of Abraham, about 1 1-2 miles from Que- bec. Point Levi appears on the right, a rocky preci- pice, covered with white dwellings, and commanding the citadel of Quebec from the opposite shore. QUEBEC* Is situated upon a high peninsular point of land, at the confluence of the Rivers St. Lawrence and St. Charles, the junction of which forms a capacious and beautiful bay and harbour. From the New Exchange at the extremity of the point on the north-east, the limits of the city jurisdic- * For a description of this place, the editor is princi- pally indebted to a valuable work, entitled " The Pic- ture of Quebec," pubhshcd in that city in 1829. Q.UEBEC. 295 tion extend in a direct line about north-west to a bend in the St. Charles River, near the General Hospital. On the St. Lawrence River the south-west point of the Banlieu is about equi-distant from the Exchange, the whole plat approximating to a triangle, the longest side of which passes a short distance to the west of the Martello Towers, measuring one mile and five furlongs or 2860 yards from the St. Charles to the St. Lawrence. A straight line drawn from one river to the other, at the Barrier on the south and west, is rather more than a mile in length, and the whole wall is two miles and three quarters in circuit ; but including the Citadel, the Esplanade, the different large gardens, and other va- cant spaces, a considerable proportion of the interior area within the fortificaiion remains unoccupied for buildings. The city and environs are thus subdivided : That part which is within the walls is called the Upper Town, and can be approached solely by five gates. On the eastern side of the Cape towards the St. Lawrence, there is only one avenue to enter it, by a circuitous steep hill, through Prescott Gate ; which is the chief thoroughfare for all the commercial business of the port, especially during the navigable season, and then Mountain street, as this route is named, presents the appearance of a crowded and active population. On the north of the city, and where the promontory has considerably declined in height, there -are two entran- ces — Hope Gate, not far from the eastern extremity of the rampart, and Palace Gate adjoining the Armoury and the Artillery Barracks. These gates are on that side of the city which is washed by the St. Charles. AA 296 QUEBEC. From the land there are two avenues to the interior of the fortifications : that to the east is known as the St. Louis Gate, which conducts by a beautiful road to the Plains of Abraham ; the other is at the end of St. John street, and thence denominated St.John's Gate. This is the route through which the chief part of the country trade passes. The long street from the termination of the Banlieu on the south-west, upon the St. Lawrence, skirting the Cape round to the Wood Yard belonging to the Gov- ernment, including Mountain street to the Prescott Gate, and all the other shorter streets between the hill and the river, are generally denominated the Lower Town. The portion between the road outside of the Gates of St. Louis and that of St. John street, to the line of the Banlieu, is called the suburbs of St. Louis. From St. John street northerly to the Cote St. Gene- vieve, and returning to the end of the Banlieu, all the buildings are included in the St. John suburbs ; and the large district extending from the Wood Yard along by the foot of the hill to the western extremity of the Banlieu, and bounded on the north-west by the St. Charles River, bears the appellation of the suburbs of St. Roch. As travellers are generally restricted to time, they have often failed to gratify their curiosity for want of a directory or guide, by which they might with the great- est facility view the most important objects, and also from not having previously obtained a letter of intro- duction to some respectable citizen who would ac- company them in their explorations. To remove these obstacles, the following methodical plan of an excur- quEBEc. 297 sion through the city, and the accompanying descrip- tions are given. They will be found to be accurate, and will save the tourist from innumerable perplexities, to which he would otherwise be subjected. Taking the Upper Town Market-House as the place of departure, the observer has on the west the ancient Monastery of the Jesuits, now used as the Barracks for the troops of the garrison. It is a capacious quad- rangular edifice of 75 yards by 67, encircled by a wall which measures on the north the whole length of Fab- rique street, and more than 200 yards on St. Anne st. The area enclosed, and which now is appropriated for the parades and exercise of the troops, was formerly an elegant garden. Fronting on the east side of Mark- et-Place is the principal Roman Catholic Church, which is open nearly the whole hours of day-light. It is a massive unornament- ed and spacious stone building. From the vestibule, the body of the interior is subdivided into equal pro- portions. At the termination of the nave is the grand altar in the middle of the ellipse constituting the sanc- tum, the walls of which are ornamented with represen- tations and figures, commingled with various other graphical emblems. Among the pictures are the con- ception — the Apostle Paul in his extatic vision — the Saviour ministered unto by angels — the flight of Jo- seph and Mary — the Redeemer on the cross — the na- tivity of Christ — the Saviour under the contumelious outrages of the soldiers — the day of Pentecost — and the Holy Family. During the siege of Quebec, in 1759, this church was set on fire by shells discharged from a bat- tery on Point Levi, and all the paintings and ornaments 298 QUEBEC. consumed except the first above mentioned, which was afterwards found among the ruins. The avenue north of the church conducts the tourist to The Seminary, a capacious superstructure of stone, in the form of a parallelogram. It is encircled by a large garden, walled in, measuring in the whole about seven acres. This institution was established in 1663, and was originally designed for the education of eccle- siastics ; but this exclusive system was long since a- bandoned, and it is now open for the reception of all who comply with its regulations. Attached to the Seminary is a museum of natural curiosities ; and on the left of the grand enterance from Market-Place is the vestibule of the chapel, in which are a great varie- ty of sacred paintings. From this the tourist can pro- ceed to the church ; and from thence to the Place d'ArmeSf where, on the east of the Pentagon is the Castle of St. Lewis, the residence of the Governor, and which, from its peculiar situation, constitutes one of the principal objects of notice in all views of the city, from Beaufort easterly to the Chaudiere. At its base, the rock is nearly 200 feet in perpendicular height, and the building on the east is sustained by strong stone buttresses, on which is laid a wide balcony ex- tending along the whole length, and whence the beau- ties of the northern and eastern landscape are beheld. The building is three stories high, and about 160 feet long ; and attached to it are several buildings contain- ing the public offices. On the west corner of the Place d'Armes stood the Episcopal church, which has been lately burnt. On the south f?ide, and nearly ad- joining, is the aUEEEC. 299 Court House, a plain neat building of stone about 140 feet long, and as many broad. It stands where once stood a church belonging to the order of the RecoUets, which was burnt in 1796. On the corner of Fort street, south of the castle of St. Lewis, is a large building used for public offices, the front room of which, on the first story, contains the Museum of the " Society for promoting Literature, Sci- ence, Arts and Historical research in Canada." A visit to it will prove extremely interesting. Crossing the Place d'Armes to Des Carrieres street, the visitor will next inspect the Monumejit, erected in memory of Wolfe and Mont- calm. This consists of a base and a pillar, surmount- ed by a vignette of graphic delineation. The base is a- bout 6 by 5 feet, and the whole height of the monument is sixty-five feet. It contains two Latin inscriptions. After viewing from the promenade at the exterior of the Governor's quarters the beauteous landscape di- verging to the north-east, the visitor will return to St. Lewis street, where, after passing the office of the Commissariat, he will turn by Parloir street to the Ursidine J^unnery and Church. This Nunnery and the land adjoining it occupy a space of about seven a- cres which is surrounded by a high barrier of stone. The institution was founded in 1639, and the edifice, which is of stone, is two stories high, 114 feet long, and about 40 broad. At the cast projection is the chapel, about 100 feet long and 50 in breadth, the interior of which is highly decorated. The convent is neat, and includes a superior, 42 assistants and 7 nov- ices, the chief employment of whom is the tuition of a aa2 300 QUEBEC. lar£^o nnmbev of c:nls in common knowledge and other qualifications. They are more rigid and retired than the inmates of any other conventual institution in Can- ada. Persons of distinction only are permitted to ex- amine the domestic departments ; but the Chaplain, whose apartment!! are on the right of the entrance, per- mits strangers to examine the church on application to him. Among the paintings there exhibited, are the portraits of some of the Popes — the birth of Immanuel — the Saviour exhibiting his heart to the Religieuses — the Saviour taken down from the cross — a cargo of Christians captured by the Algerines — Louis xiii of France — and several devices taken from the scriptures. The altars are highly ornamented and imposing. Leaving the nunnery, the visitor will next proceed by Anne street, with the south wing of the barracks on his right to the Presbyterian church. Passing its front he will leave the jail on the right, where he pursues his course to the Esplanade. If he has no citizen as a companion, and no other mode of visiting the fortification, he should turn up St. Ursule to St. Louis street, and at the mili- tary offices request from the adjutant general a card of admission to walk round the interior of the Citadel. This stupendous fortress circumscribes the whole area on the highest part of Cape Diamond, and is intended not only to accommodate the garrison as a residence, parade, &c. but also to include all the mate- riel of war. It perfectly commands the city and river St. Lawrence ; and when completed will be not only the most powerful specimen of military architecttire on the western continent, but also a rival of many of the (QUEBEC. 301 renowned works in the Netherlands. All attempts to describe the Citadel in its present unfinished state would be nugatory. Having entered the grand western gate, where the visitor leaves his ticket with the soldier on guard, and examined the edifice, he will first proceed round the course of the Citadel to the flag staff" and telegraph ; thence southerly by the parapet bordering on the riv- er to the machinery at the head of the rail- way, or in- clined plane, which is 500 feet long, extending from the wharf to the Cape, where its perpendicular eleva- tion is 345 feet above the stream. This rail-way is used by the government alone, to convey stones and other articles of great weight and bulk, for the erection of the new fortress. Having surveyed from the highest point the majes- tic scene, in every diversified aspect of hill and dale, land and water, the visitor will follow the course of the wall on his left hand, until he returns to the same gate, and pursue his walk by it, over St. Louis gate along the Esplanade, until he arrives opposite the church of the Congreganistes, immediately below which is the national school house. Proceeding along St. John street, he will turn north of St. Stanislaus street, on the east side of which stands Trinity chapel, whence, crossing Carlcton street, he arrives at the artillery barracks and the armoury — the latter of which may be inspected, if a resident of the city be in company. Opposite the armoury is the anatomical room of the medical society. Thence walking up Palace street, on the right hand is St. Helen street, where is Mr. Chas- 30ll QUEBEC. seur's natural museum. Returning into Palace street, the visitor crosses obliquely above to Collins' Lane, in which stands on the left, the Chapel of the Hotel Dieu. These premises include a large proportion of the northern part of the interior of the city — commencing from the gate of the burial ground on Couillard street, and extending to Palace street, with a wall on the north, parallel to the fortifi- cations ; the whole space occupying about twelve acres. This institution was commenced in 1637, under the auspices of the Duchess of Aiguillon, and was con- secrated to the reception and care of the sick, who are indigent and distressed. It is a capacious edifice, the longest portion of which extends nearly one hundred and thirty yards by seventeen in depth, and three sto- ries high. On the north-west side from the centre, a range is erected two stories high, fifty yards in length, and nearly as many feet broad, plain and unadorned. This wing is appropriated for the patients ; the upper story of which is occupied by the females. All proper attendance both from the nuns and physicians, witJ^ every necessary comfort, is gratuitously administered. In the convent the sisterhood reside, who now in elude the superieure, thirty-three religeuses professes two novices and one postulante. The regularity neatness and purity with which the establishment i: conducted, and the solace of the wretched who fine, refuge in this hospitable domain, are highly exemplary. The church of the Hotel Dieu, externally, is perfect- ly plain, and the interior is little adorned. The paint- ings may be examined upon application to the chaplain. Q,UEBEC. 303 Having completed an examination of the Hotel Dieu, with the sun'ounding garden, the visitor may next follow Couillard, St. Joachin and St. George's streets to the Grand Battery and the ancient palace of the Catholic bishop, now used by the provincial parlia- ment ; or he can return to Palace street, and continue his progress to the gate, where, by passing the guard house and pursuing his walk easterly, he may accu- rately understand the nature of the defence which the city can make against external assault. The first house at which he arrives is distinguished as the residence of the renowned Montcalm. There he may turn to the right which will lead him to Couil- lard street, or he can continue his walk passing Hope Gate, until he arrives at the Look-out from the north- east platform of the battery. In the lower town, the only objects which merit no- tice, besides the inclined plane or rail-way to the Cita- del, are the Exchange reading room, and the Quebec library, which are always open for the admission of strangers, if regularly introduced, and are worthy of inspection. About one hundred yards from the lower end of the rail-way, General Montgomery and his aids with other men were killed on the morning of December 31, 1775, when proceeding to the assault of Quebec. The place may be easily recognized, notwithstanding the alterations which have occurred. At that period, a narrow path only was made between the foot of the hill and the river, so that vessels were fastened to the rock by large iron bolts, one of which still remains, near the very spot where the American General and P S04 JiUEBEC — PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. his advanced party were discomfited. The wharves, houses, &C. all have been long since constructed. At the top of the small ascent on the street immediately below, the small battery had been erected, near the plat where the southerly forge is now stationed. As Montgomery led on the attack, the British retreated before him. In passing round Cape Diamond, the ice and projecting rocks rendered it necessary for the Americans to press forward in a narrow file, until they arrived at the block house and picket. The General was liimself in front, and assisted with his own hands to cut down and pull up the picket. The roughness of the %\'ay had so lengthened his line of march, that he was obliged to wait for a force to come up before he could proceed. Having re-assembled about 200 men, he advanced boldly and rapidly at their head to force tlie barrier. One or two of the enemy had by this time ventured to return to the battery, and seeing a match standing by one of the guns, touched it off*, when the American force was within 40 paces of it. This single and accidental fire struck down General Montgomery and his aids, Captain M'Pherson and Captain Cheesman, The remains of Montgomery were interred by a sol- dier of the name of Thompson within a wall that sur- rounded a powder magazine near the ramparts bound- ing on St. Lewis' gate ; and in 1818 were removed to New- York, where they were deposited beneath a mon- ument in front of St. Paul's church. The Plains of Abraham lie south and west of Que- bec. The visitor, on leaving St. Louis gate, should turn up the stairs to the Glacis, continue his course under the citadel, and pursue a path to the right. At the PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. 305 termination of the enclosure, the bank is ascended to the Plains of Abraham, near the spot where Wolfe died. The large house at a distance in the front is erected on the site of a French redoubt, which defended the as- cent from Wolfe's Cove, and was the primary object of assault and capture, after the top of the hill had been gained by the British troops. The precipice at the Cove, from 150 to 200 feet in height, and full of projec- tions of rocks and trees, seemed to be rendered almost inaccessible. General Wolfe, however, with unparal- leled fortitude, led the way in the night (Sept. 12, 175^) through a narrow path winding obliquely up the hill, which, with the assistance of boughs and stumps, ena- bled him and his troops to gain the summit. Here, by day-light the next morning, they were formed in line of battle, in readiness to meet the enemy. General Montcalm, on receiving information that the British had possession of the heights, broke up his camp at Beaufort, crossed the St. Charles river, and at about 10 o'clock in the morning commenced the at- tack. After a desperate struggle of about two hours, in which both commanders had been mortally wound- ed, the French gave way, and left the field in the pos- session of the victors. Wolfe fell at the critical moment that decided the victory. He was wounded in the early part of the engagement by a bullet in his wrist — soon after by a ball which passed through his groin — and it was not until a third had pierced his breast, that he suffer- ed himself to be carried from the field. " I die hap- py," was his exclamation, when in the arms of death he heard thejoyful shouts of victory. 306 FALLS OF MONTMORENCI. The Martello Totoers, consisting of four circular forts, are situated at the northern extremity of the Plains of Abraham, about half a mile in advance of the exterior grand wall of the fortifications. They are numbered from the river St. Lawrence to the General Hospital, and guard the approaches to the city on the south and west. They are nearly 40 feet in height, with a base diameter almost equal ; and the exterior wall is of am- ple strength to resist a cannonade. The Falls of Montmorenci, are situated about 8 miles north-east of Quebec, on the river of the same name, near its junction with the St. Lawrence. These falls pour over a perpendicular precipice 240 feet in height, and may almost compare in beauty and gran- deur with the cataract of Niagara. The effect from the summit of the cliff is awfully grand and sublime. The prodigious depth of the de- scent of the waters of this surprising fall ; the bright- ness and volubility of their course ; the swiftness of their movement through the air ; and the loud and hol- low noise emitted from the basin, swelling with inces- sant agitation from the weight of the dashing waters, forcibly combine to attract the attention, and to im- press the mind of the spectator with sentiments of gran- deur and elevation. The breadth of the fall is 100 feet ; and the basin, which is bounded by steep cliffs, forms an angle of forty-five degrees. When viewed from the beach, the cataract is seen, with resplendent beauty, to flow down the gloomy precipice, the summit of which is crowded with woods. The diffusion of the stream, to the breadth of 1500 feet, and the various smedl cas- cades produced by the inequalities of its rocky bed, on FALLS OF MONTMORENCI. 307 its way to the St. Lawrence, display a very gincmlar and pleasing combination. Remains of entrenchments and fortifications erected during the French war are still to be seen near the falls. A battery occupied by Gen. Wolfe, in June, 1759, on the precipice north-east of the falls, is yet vis- ible. The French occupied the opposite bank ; and Wolfe attempted to storm their works by fording the river below the falls and ascending the heights. With- out forming in a regular manner, and without waiting for additional reinforcements which were on their way from Point Levi, Wolfe's men rashly ascended the hill, eager for the onset, and were cut down by the French artillery and musquetry, and obliged to retreat. The English loss was about 500 ; while that of the French was trifling. A storm coming on, further attempts to dislodge the French were abandoned. The British afterwards ascended the river, and the action on the Plains of Abraham, which has already been noticed, took place in the month of September following. There are three points which afford the best views of the Falls. 1. From the upper window of the mill, whence the projecting leap is safely seen. 2. Having crossed the bridge, the visitor proceeds along the brow of the hill, until he arrives nearly in front of the whole cataract, from this summit, the view, with the con- comitant circumstances, inspire commingled emotions of awe, terror and [astonishment. From the same spot, there is a lucid and beauteous propect of Quebec, , with its encircling scenery ; and with an ordinary mag- nifying glass, the observer can discern all the promi- nent objects — the steeples, towers, fortifications, prin- BB FALLS OF MONTMORENCL cipal edifices, the shipping, the course of the St. Law- rence, until it is lost among the hills — Point Levi and its vicinity — the north side of the island of Orleans — the point of Ange Gardien — and the shores of the river as far as Cape Tourment. 3. Hence the visitor de- scends the hill, and pursuing its course to the right, he may ordinarily advance to the rock which interrupts the turbulence of the stream when discharged into the chasm. In the view from below, ' the most vivid im- pressions of this gorgeous cascade are produced ; and travellers who do not thus survey the Falls, can form only a faint and incorrect idea of its apparently chang- ing effect. At a considerable distance above the Falls, the chan- nel of the river is contracted between high vertical rocks, and the water rushes with porpotionate velocity. In one part at about half a mile from the bridge, cas- cades of three or four yards in depth are adjacent to two fine geological curiosities, familiarly denominated the J^atural Steps, which appear to have been formed by the attrition of the stream, occasioned by the melt- ing of the snows and the augmented rapidity of the flood. Many of these steps are so regular, that they almost develope the process of human art. The perpendicular attitude of the rocks on the east side — the tree-crowned summit — the uniformity of appear- ance, resembli'.ig an ancient castle wall in ruins — the precipices on the western bank — and the foaming noi- sy current portray a romantic wildness, which is very attractive. Observers are amply reijiunorated for their walk, as conjoined with this interesting object, they witness the continuous descent and the accelerating force and celerity with which the river ia propelled to LORETTK — CHAUDIERE FALLS. 309 the point, whence it is precipitated into the St. Law- rence. LoRETTE, an Indian village, about 8 miles from the city, can be taken in the route to or from the Falls of Montmorenci. It is built upon an elevated situation, whence there is an extensively varied and agreeable landscape, in many points similar to that from Cape Diamond, but also including some attractive novelties of outline. It exhibits a bold and beautiful view of Quebec and its suburbs, and in its extent, it is bounded solely by the distant southern mountains. The Indi- an inhabitants of the village retain many of the promi- nent characteristics of the aboriginal reamers of the forest, combined with vicious habits contracted by their proximity to a large sea-port, and their inter- course with its migratory population. At this village is a very charming view of the river St. Charles tumb- ling and foaming over the rocks and ledges to a great depth. The rugged and perpendicularly elevated woody cliffs in connection with the impetuous rush of the waters, although circumscribed in extent, and there- fore affording no expanded prospect in immediate front, yet as seen from the Saw-Mill, and from the bank and the bridge at the head of the dell, in its different posi- tions and aspects, constitute an object, which, when contrasted with the more majestic cataracts of Mont- morenci and the Chaudiere, or recollected in combina- tion with them, furnishes in memorial an addition to the varieties which those stupendous natural curiosi- ties embody. ' The Chaudiere Falls can be approached by land or water. The former is generally preferred, the distance 310 CHAUDIERE FALLS. to the mouth of the Chaudiere being nine miles from Quebec. From thence visitors can cross at the ferry and take an indirect path to the west bank of the river, or diverge from the St. Lawrence some distance north of the Chaudiere, and arrive within a short walk of the falls on the eastern bank. The river at the cascade is much compressed, being only about 400 feet across ; and the depth into the Pot, as it is usually termed, is about 135 feet. Many rocks divide the stream, precise- ly at the fall, into three chief currents, of which the westerly is the largest — these partially re-unite before their broken and agitated waves are received into the basin ; where each dashing against the other maintains a turbulent whirlpool. The form of the rock forces a part of the waters into an obhque direction, advancing them beyond the line of the precipice, while the cavi- ties in the rocks increase the foaming fury of the revolv- ing waters in their descent, displaying globular figures of brilliant whiteness, which are richly contrasted with the encircling dark and gloomy cliffs, while the ascend- ing spray developes all the variety of the coloured clou- dy arch, and enlivens the beauty of the landscape. The wild diversity of rocks, the foliage of the overhang- ing woods, the rapid motion, the effulgent brightness and the deeply solemn sound of the cataracts, all com- bining to present a rich assemblage of objects highly attractive, especially when the visitor, emerging from the wood, is instantaneously surprised by the delight- ful scene. Below, the view is greatly changed, and the falls produce an additional strong and vivid impres- sion. If strangers only view the falls from one side of FROM MONTREAL TO WHITEHALL- 311 the river, the prospect from the eastern shore is recom- mended as preferable. The Montmorenci and Chaudiere Falls, the village of Loretto and Lake St. Charles, together with the scenery of Orleans, a beautiful island 6 miles down the St. Lawrence, Beaufort and Point Levi, will always af- ford interesting excursions to the tourist at Quebec. FROM QUEBEC TO MONTREAL, In returning to Montreal, the traveller (as before re- marked) should, if practicable, take a boat at such an hour as to give him a chance of viewing by day-light on the river the scenery which, in descending, was pass- ed in the night. The approach to Montreal in ascending the river is extremely beautiful. The mount behind the city cloth- ed in a rich and unbroken foliage, the numerous adja- cent country seats, the spires and edifices of the city and the beautiful woody island in front, all conspire in presenting a rich and truly diversified landscape, and one that will not be easily effaced from the memory. [For a description of Montreal^ see p. 288.] FROM MONTREAL* TO WHITEHALL, Is 181 miles, and the intervening distances are as follows : * At Montreal a stage can be taken twice a week for Danville, Vt. distant 100 miles ; from thence to the Notch in the White Mountains, 28 miles ; from thence to Concord, N. H. 75 miles ; and from thence to Bos- ton, 68 miles. The whole route is performed in four days. [For a description of the White Mountains^ see page 334.] bb2 312 CHAMBLY — ST. JOHNS, Miles. Burlington, 11 Split Rock, 12 Essex, 2 Basin Harbor, 12 Crown Point, 12 Ticonderoga, 15 Whitehall, 24 JMUes. Longueil, 2 Chambly, 13 St. Johns, 12 IsIeAuxNoix, 14 Rouse's Point, 10 Chazy, 12 Plattsburgh, 15 Part Kent, 15 From Montreal the St. Lawrence is crossed in a horse boat to Longueil,* a distance of two miles. Af- ter leaving Longueil, the country becomes remarkably level, until you reach Chambly, 13 miles distant. This is a considerable town, on the river Sorel, containing extensive barracks and some troops. In the vicinity is High Mountain, which confines between its conical summits a lake of pure water. The fort is built of stone, in a quadran- gular form, and resembles in its appearance an ancient castle. From this place the road follows the river, un- til you arrive at St. Johns, a distance of 12 miles. This place was an important post during the French and Revolutionary wars. In the latter it was taken, after a gallant de- fence, by General Montgomery, as was also Chambly. It contains, at present, about 100 houses and 800 in- habitants. Though a place of considerable business, it possesses nothing in its appearance or accommoda- +The route may be varied so as to pass through La Prairie, a village of about 200 houses, and the sfrand thoroughfare for trade between Montreal and St. Johns, though the route through Longueil is considered pre- ferable. LAKE CHAMPLAIN — ISLE AUX NOIX. .313 tions inviting to a stranger. Heretofore steam-boats have left St. Johns for Whitehall only twice a week j bat as there are now three on the Lake, it is probable that a passage may hereafter be taken as often as eve- ry other day. The boats touch at all the intermediate places ; and the fare through is $6. Proportionate de- ductions are made for the intermediate distances. LAKE CHAMPLAIN, Forms part of the boundary line between the states of New- York and Vermont. Its length is 140 miles, and its greatest breadth 14. A great proportion of the lands on the margin of the lake are still unredeemed from a state of nature, and in some places, particularly at the north end, are low and marshy. After entering the territories of the United States, the country is more populous, and under a better state of improvement. The villages seen from the lake all exliibit a cheerful and thriving appearance. The lake properly termi- nates at Mount Independence ; from whence to White- hall, a distance of 30 miles, it assumes the appearance of a river, in which little more than room is left, at any point, to turn the boat. The history of Champlain in- volves many interesting events associated with the French and Revolutionary wars. During those periods several fortifications were constructed, which have since undergone some repairs, but are now in a state of decay. The ruins of the ancient fortresses at Ticonde- roga and Crown Point are still visible. Isle aux Noix, 14 miles from St Johns. This is a strong military and naval post possessed by the En- glish. The works arc generally in good preservation ; 314. PLATXSBURGH. and are occupied by a small military corps. In the ex« pedition against Canada in 1775, the troops under Gen- erals Schuyler and Montgomery went down the lake in rafts and landed at this island , from whence they proceeded to St. Johns. The other detachment, under Gen. Arnold, marched by land through the present state of Maine, (then a wilderness) to Quebec. Rouse's Point, at the outlet of Lake Champlain, and 10 miles from the Isle aux Noix, contains strong stone fortifications, erected by the United States, but which, by the decision of the commissioners appointed to settle the boundary Une between the American and British g^overnments, fell within the territories of the latter. The Village of Plattsburgh, 27 miles farther, is handsomely located at the mouth of the Saranac river, on the west side of Lake Champlain. It contains about 300 dwelUngs, besides the court-house and prison for the county. The number of inhabitants is about 1500. Tliis place is rendered celebrated by the briUiant victory of M'Donough and Macomb, over the British land and naval forces under Sir George Prevost and Commodore Downie. The naval engagement took place in front of the village, which overlooks the ex- tensive Bay of Plattsburgh for several miles. Here the American Commodore waited at anchor the arrival of the British fleet, which appeared passing Cumberland Head, about 8 in the morning of the 11th of September, 1314. The first gun from the fleet was the signal for commencing the attack on land. Sir George Prevost, with about 14,000 men, furiously assaulted the defences PLATTSBURGH. 315 of the town, whilst the battle raged with increasing ar- dor between the fleets, then contending in full view of the respective armies. General Macomb, with his gal- lant little army, consisting of about 3000 men, mostly undisciplined, foiled the repeated assaults of the enemy, until the capture of the British fleet, after an action of two hours, obliged him to retire, with the loss of 2500 men, together with considerable baggage and ammuni- tion. The American force on the lake consisted of 86 guns, and 820 men ; and was opposed to a force of 95 guns, and 1050 men. Thus ended the affair at Platts- burgh, 'no less honorable to American valor than dero- gatory to the British arms. Commodore Downie was killed in the engagement. He was represented as a brave and skilful officer ; but was opposed to the meth- od of attack on the American flotilla. Both fleets are now dismantled, and moored at Whitehall. A monument erected to the memory of Commodore Downie, in the church-yard at Plattsburgh, contains the following inscription : " Sacred to the memory of George Downie, Esq. A Post-Captain in the Royal British Navy, who glori- ously fell on board his B. M. S. the Confiance, while leading the vessels under his command to the attack of the American flotilla at anchor in Cumberland Bay, off Plattsburgh, on the 11th September, 1814. To mark the spot where the remains of a gallant officer and sin- cere friend were honorably interred, this stone has been erected by his aflectionate sister-in-law Mary Downie.'* The remains of a number of officers of both armies, who fell in the engagement, repose near the Commo- dore, with no monument to inform the stranger, and 816 PLATTSBURGH — PORT KENT. with no record but tradition to denote the spot of their interment. East of Downie are five graves, occurring in the following order: Commencing south — Capt. Copeland, an American officer — Lieut. Stansbury, of the American navy — Lieut. Runk, of the American ar- my — Lieut. Gamble, of the American navy — and a Brit- ish Sergeant. On the north side of Downie are the remains of the British Lt. Col. Wellington — on the south, two British Lieutenants — on the west Capt. Purchase and four other officers, three of whom were British. The traveller will find many objects of interest at Plattsburg-h, which will warrant his continuance there for one or two days. A short distance from the village are the cantonement and breast works occupied by Gen. Macomb and his troops during the last war. A mile north is shown the house possessed by Gen Pro- vost as his head-quarters during the siege in 1814 ; between which and the village, the marks of cannon- shot on trees and other objects, are still visible. Far- ther onward, about 5 miles, on a hill overlooking the village of Beekmantown, is shown the spot where a sanguinary engagement took place, between the A- merican and British troops, which resulted in the death of the British Col. WelUngton, and several men of both armies. Col. W. was killed in the centre of the road, about equa-distant from the summit and foot of the hill. JSP DonougW s Farm, granted by the legislature of Ver- mont, Ues on Cumberland Head, nearly east of Platts- burgh ; a ride to which, around the bay, in the warm season, is refreshing and delightful. Port Kent, 15 miles from Plattsburgh, is a spot seleelcd on the lake shore for a new town or villago, ADGAffi's PALLS — HIGH BRIDGE. 31 7 17 miles southerly of Plattburgh by land, and 15 miles by water. There are a few buildings, and a wharf erect- ed, at which passengers are landed from the steam- boat. From this place may be seen, on the north, the Isle La Mott, 26 miles distant. Grand Island, the Two Sisters, Point La Roche, Cumberland Head, and Bel- core and Macomb's Islands ; on the east. Stave, Pro- vidence and Hog Islands, Colchester Point, and the Green Mountains of Vermont ; on the south the vil- lage of Burlington, about 11 miles distant, with the high peak called the Camel's Rump ; the whole form- a most delightful and pleasant landscape not excelled at any other point of the lake passage. Three miles west from Port Kent, are the celebrated Adgate's Falls. They are situated on the river A'Sable, and take their name from a person residing there, who is the proprietor of some valuable mills in the vicinity. The water pours over a precipice about 80 feet in height, into a narrow channel of the river, the banks of which consist of rock, rising perpendicu- larly to the height of from 60 to 100 feet. At what is called the High Bridge, about half a mile below the falls, the channel is narrowed to 27 feet. The height of the rocks here, whicli are per{)endicular, is 93 feet, and the water ter 35 feet deep. Over this chasm a bridge was once erected, by throwing timbers across ; but it is now principally in decay. The sensations produced on look- ing into this gulf are terrific, and the stoutest heart in- voluntarily shrinks from the contemplation. There is an indifferent road from the falls to the High Bridge, but with this exception the spot is yet a wilderness. 318 SPLIT ROCK — CROWN POINT. Burlington, is situated on the east side of Lake Champlain, about 24 miles south-east of Plattsburgh. This is one of those beautiful villages which so often attract the notice of a stranger in the New-England states. The ground rises with a moderate ascent from the lake, and presents a slope covered with handsome houses and trees. On the highest part of the eminence, which is 330 feet above the level of the lake, stands the University of Vermont. This summit commands a noble view of the lake, and the adjacent country, for many miles. There are here 250 houses and stores, besides a bank, court-house, jail, and two churches.* About 12 miles from Burlington, in the town of Willsborough, (N. Y.) is what is called the Split Rock. This curiosity is a part of a rocky promontory projecting into the lake, on the west side, about 1 50 feet, and elevated above the level of the wa- ter about 12 feet. The part broken off contains about half an acre, covered with trees, and is separated from the main rock about 20 feet. The opposite sides ex- actly fit each other — the prominences in the one cor- responding with the cavities in the other. Through this fissure a line has been let down to the depth of 500 feet, without finding bottom. Crown Point, is situated 36 miles from Burlington, on the west side of Lake Champlain. It is formed by an extensive deep bay on the west, skirted by a steep ♦Travellers designing to visit Boston, frequently take a stage at this place, on a route which is noticed at page 330. TICONDEROGA — SOUTH AND EAST BAYS. 319 mountain, and on the north and east by the body of the lake. The elevated plain was first occupied by the French, in 1731, as a military position, and aban- doned by them in 1759, when General Amherst took possession of it, and built Fort Frederick. The ruins of this fort may still be traced, being situated directly opposite to Chimney Point on the south side of the bay. After the peace of 1763, it was occupied by a subaltern and a mere safe-guard, until it was burnt by accident sometime previous to the American Revolu- tion. In 1775 it fell into the hands of the Americans, and was afterwards evacuated by them, on the advance of Burgoyne, in 1776. A few years since a number of British guineas were found here, from the accidental crumbling of the earth from the banks, where they had been deposited. TicoNDEROGA, which has already been noticed, {see p. 196,) is situated 15 miles south of Crown-Point, and 24 miles north of Whitehall. One mile from Ticonderoga, is Mount Indepen- dence, on the east side of the lake ; near the foot of which, the remains of a small battery are still to be seen. What was called the Horse-Shoe battery was on an elevation about a quarter of a mile in the rear. Nine miles farther, the lake is contracted into four narrow channels, bounded on the west and east by lof- ty mountains. South and East Bats are soon reached, each of about five miles in extent. The former was taken by Gen. Dieskau and his army, in their route towards Fort Edward in 1755. From the latter bay to White- cc 320 WHITEHALL — NORTHERN CANAL. hall, the passage is extremely narrow and of a ser- pentine course, and cannot be pursued in safety dur- ing a dark night. Whitehall, terminates the steam-boat navigation of Lake Champlain. It is an incorporated village sit- uated on the west bank of Wood Creek at its enterance into the lake, 73 miles north of Albany, and contains about 150 dwellings and stores and 1200 inhabitants. The situation of this place is low and unpleasant ; and it derives its principal consequence from the naviga- tion of the lake, Avhich is passable for sloops of 80 tons burthen, and from the northern canal, which here enters the lake. Burgoyne occupied this place for a short time, preparatory to his march to Saratoga ; and on the heights, over the harbor, are the remains of a battery and block house. A regular line of stages runs from Whitehall* to Albany every day in the week, passing through Fort Ann, San- dy Hill, Fort Edward, Saratoga, Stillwater and Water- ford. Regular packet-boats also depart for Albany ev- ery Tuesday and Saturday at 8 A. M. The fare is 4 cents per mile, including board. On the arrival of the packet-boat at Fort Edward, stages are always in rea- diness to start for Albany, Saratoga and Ballston Springs. THE NORTHERN CANAL, Commencing at Whitehall, proceeds five and a half miles when it enters Wood Creek, a narrow sluggish *A route from this place to Boston is noticed at page 328. THE NORTHERN CANAL. 321 stream, averaging 15 feet in depth. This creek is con- nected with the canal, and is rendered navigable for boats, for about 6 1-2 miles, to Fort Ann village. — From thence the canal proceeds through Fort Ann, Kingsbury, and Fort Edward, to Fort Miller Falls, be- low which the canal enters the river, which is made navigable 3 miles to Saratoga falls, where the canal is taken out of the river on the west side, and proceeds through Saratoga, Stillwater and Halfmoon, to Water- ford, where it enters the Hudson, and by a branch ca- nal enters the Mohawk, which it crosses by a dam, and after passing 3-4 of a mile joins the Erie canal in the town of Watervleit. The whole length of the Cham- plain canal is 63 miles. The cost to the state, exclu- sive of the feeder from above Glen's Falls, was $875,000. The intervening distances on the canal between Whitehall and Albany are as follows : Miles. Fort Ann, 12 Sandy-Hill, 8 Fort Edward, 2 Fort Miller Falls,... 8 Saratoga Falls, .... 3 Schuylerville, 2 Bemus' Heights, ... 12 Miles, Stillwater V 3 Mechanics Ville, .... 3 Waterford, 8 Watervleit, 2 Gibbon's Ville, 2 Albany, 6 Half a mile north of Fort Anne, where an elbow is made by Wood Creek at the foot of a precipitous hill, a severe engagement took place in 1777, between a de- tachment of Burgoyne's troops and a party of Ameri- cans, under the command of Col. Sterry, who wero on their retreat from Ticonderoga. The Americana were on the plain south of the hill ; while tlie latter served 322 ROUTES TO BOSTON. as a cover to the British. Their fire on Sterry's forces below was destructive, and compelled him to abandon his position. The village of Fort Anne is on the site of the old Fort erected during the French war. It was located at the north part of the village on the bank of the creek. Burgoyne's road, commencing about 2 miles south of the village, and nearly pursuing the course of the pres- ent road, is still visible. It was a causeway, formed by logs laid transversely, a labor wliich became neces- sary in conveying his cannon and baggage waggons to Saratoga. From Fort Anne to Albany, the intervening places, Sandy-Hill, Saratoga, &c. have already been noticed. ((See Index.) ROUTES TO BOSTON. These are so various, that the traveller may always be governed by his own taste and judgment in a selec- tion. The route from Albany has been chosen by ma- ny on account of enjoying in the excursion a visit to the Lebanon Springs ; while others have preferred a course which should embrace the rich mountain scenery of Vermont and New-Hampshire ; commencing their ex- cursions either at Burlington, Whitehall, or at Sarato- ga Springs. These routes are hereafter delineated ; but without giving them in strict geographical order, we commence with that from Saratoga Springs, as pass- ing over the most interesting ground connected with the liistoric events of the revolution. SCHUYLER-VILLE — UNIOU VILLAGE. S5SS FROM Saratoga springs to boston* 161 miles. Intervening distances asfolloios : Miles. Jeffrey, 5 New Ipswich, 10 Townsend, 12 Pepperel, 6 Groton, 3 Littleton, 8 Acton, 3 Concord, 7 Lexington, 7 Cambridge, 7 Boston, 3 Miles, Schuyler- Ville, 12 Union Village, 5 Cambridge, 8 Arlington,.* 12 Manchester, 12 Landsgrove, 15 Chester, 15 Bellows Falls, 14 Walpole Village, ... 4 W^alpole, 4 Keen€, 14 Marlborough, 5 A stage leaves Saratoga Springs every morning (Sundays excepted) at 5 o'clock, reaching Manchester the first day, Keene the second, and Boston the third, to dine. Fare $7,50. ScHUTLER-ViLLE, 12 miles. {See p. 185.) Passing across the vale where the surrender of Burg03me took place to the river, (on the bank of which, in a field ad- joining the road on the north, are seen the remains of an intrenchment,) the stage crosses in a horse-boat. Union Village, 5 miles. The Battenkill river pass- es through the village, on the banks of which are sev- eral mills and factories. There are about 100 houses in the place ; and the number is constantly augment- ing. Cambridge and Arlington are good agricultural townships. In the latter place, the route, for a consid- erable distance is on the bank of the Battenkill, near which are several valuable and extensive quarries of Nvliite marble. cc3 324 BELLOWS FALLS. Manchester, 12 miles from Arlington, is a neat vil- lage, located near the foot of the Green Mountains, which are seen stretching to the north and south as far as the eye can extend. Leaving the village, the stage soon commences ascending the great natural barrier which separates the eastern and western sections of Vermont. No exertions have been spared to improve the road ; and it may be considered by far the best of any which crosses the mountain. The ascent, which is not precipitous, continues, with occasional descents, for 10 or 12 miles before the summit is reached. Dur- ing the first six miles, a most extensive and variegated prospect at the west is enjoj^ed ; and after attaining the greatest elevation, this is suddenly exchanged for a prospect nearly co-extensive at the east. Chester, 30 miles from Manchester, is a pleasant village, situated on a handsome plain, and contains two churches, an excellent academy, and about 60 dweUings and stores. Bellows Falls, 14 miles, lies on the western bank of Connecticut river. The village is flourishing, con- tains some very pleasant houses, a number of manu- facturing establishments, and a beautiful church, which stands on an eminence, and is seen for some miles distant. A canal, having 9 locks, and affording water for a number of mills, has been constructed around the falls. It is about half a mile in length. The whole descent of the river for this distance is 50 feet, and as- sumes the appearance of rapids rather than a cataract. Over the greatest descent, where the water is compres- WALPOLE. 325 sed by ledges of rocks to a very narrow space, a hand- some toll bridge is erected, 50 feet in height, from which the water is seen rushing through the pass with great rapidity, and dashing upon the rocks in the wild- est disorder — presenting a scene truly sublime and in- teresting. A short distance below the falls are two rocks con- taining specimens of Indian workmanship. On one of the rocks are the indistinct traces of a number of hu- man faces, represented by marks in the stone, and probably intended as a memorial of their deceased friends or chieftains. That this place was once the haunt of our savage predecessors, is evident from the arrow points and bits of their earthen pots and frag- ments of other utensils wliich may be found in a short walk over the adjacent fields.* On the New-Hampshire side is a chain of lofty mountains, which leave but a narrow passage between their base and the river. Around one of these impend- ing barriers the road winds its course to the pleasant village of Walpole, which containes about 80 houses, includ- ing some very handsome mansions. This place was the scene of many savage incursions during the French war. It was once in the entire possession of the Indi- * From Bellows Falls, stages can be taken every day for Concord, N. H. and for Hartford, Conn. On the latter route, the course is generally near the bank of the Connecticut river, and through a most dehghtful country, interspersed with several elegant villages and country seats. 326 KEENE' — LEXINGTON. ans,and retaken from them by Col. Bellows, who made the first settlement in this part of the country. The scenery in this vicinity is remarkably striking and ro- mantic. Ten miles farther is the flourishing village of Keene. This is one of the handsomest villages in New-England, and is situated a few miles east of the Connecticut river. It contains about 200 dwellings, a bank, a court house and gaol, 3 churches, and a pop- ulation of about 2000. For a distance of 40 miles from this place no village of importance intervenes, though many handsome dwellings and rich farms are discov- ered on the routCi Groton, 41 miles from Keene, is a pleasant village, containing about 100 houses and an academy ; seven miles from which is the town of Concord, rendered memorable as the place where the first efficient opposition was made to the British troops, in 1775. It is a large town, and contains many handsome dwellings. Eight miles from which is the town of Lexington, containing a few plain houses ; but cel- ebrated in history as the spot where the first American blood was shed in the struggle for Independence. This occurred on the 19th of April, 1775. A quantity of mil- itary stores had been collected at Concord, which the British General Gage proposed to destroy. Though se- cret in his operations, and though precaution had been taken the evening previous to scour the roads and se- cure such citizens as the British officers fell in with, yet the plan was discovered by Doctor Warren, of Boston, who sent out messengers to alarm the inhabitants and LEXINGTON. 327 prepare them for resistance. On the arrival the next morning at Lexington of the British troops, 8 or 900 strong, it was found that the miUtia of the town, to the number of 70, were in arms. Major Pitcairn, who led the British van, ordered the " rebels" to disperse. Some scattering guns were fired, which were followed by a general discharge, and continued till the militia disap- peared. Eight men were killed and several wounded.* The detachment then proceeded to Concord, a part of which took possession of two bridges beyond the town, while the remainder destroyed the military stores. A number of militia, who had collected in the vicinity, but with orders not to give the first fire, attempted to pass one of the bridges in the character of travellers. They were fired on, and two men killed. The fire was returned and a skirmish ensued, which resulted in the discomfiture of the regulars, and a precipitate retreat, Skirmisloing continued during the day, and though the British received reinforcements, they were harrassed in their retreat to Bunker's Hill, where they remained se- cure under the protection of their ships of war. The loss of the British, during this day, in killed, wounded and prisoners, was 273 ; wliile that of the provincialists did not exceed 90. The blow thus struck was the precurser of more im- portant events, and was soon followed by the battle of Breed's or (as it is generally denominated) Bunker's Hill ; which is noticed in subsequent pages. + A handsome monument now marks the spot where this action was fought, beneath which are interred tho yemaijfts of the Americans who were slain. 328 FROM WHITEHALL TO BOSTON. Cambridge, is situated 7 miles from Lexington. It is a large and handsome town, but derives its impor- tance from Harvard University, which is located here, and is one of the oldest and most celebrated literary in- stitutions in the United States. It takes its name from the Rev. John Harvard, who died in 1638, leaving to the institution a legacy of 779Z. 17s. 2d. sterhng. The edifices belonging to the University are Harvard, Mas- sachusetts, Hollis, Stoughton, Holworthy and Univer- sity Halls, Holden Chapel, a new stone building re- cently erected, and 3 College houses, besides that for the President. These buildings are all situated in a spacious square, and are handsomely shaded with a variety of trees. There are annually educated here about 300 students. The amount of property belong- ing to the institution, it is said, falls httle short of $600,- 000. It contains an extensive philosophical aparatus, and a library of about 25,000 volumes. Cambridge contains 3 handsome villages, a court house, jail, state arsenal, 8 houses of pubhc worship, and about 5000 in- habitants. Two miles from Cambridge is the city of Boston. The two places are connected by a bridge 3846 feet long and 40 wide, with a causeway of 3344 feet. The cost of the Avhole was $76,700. [For a description of Boston see subsequent pages.] FROM WHITEHALL TO BOSTON— 178 miles. A stage leaves Whitehall three times a week, passing through the villages of Castleton and Rutland, con- necting at Chester with the route from Saratoga SpringSj and reaches Boston tho third day. CAStLETON. 329 Fairhaven, 9 miles from Whitehall, contains seve- ral mills and manufactories of iron, and about 50 houses. Castleton, 5 miles farther, is a handsome village of 80 or 90 houses, and contains the Rutland county acad- emy and a medical college ; which are liberally patron- ized. The Vermont Classical Seminary, recently erected at this place, under the superintendence of Messrs. Beck and Foot, will doubtless ere long rank among the first hterary institutions in the United States. The building erected for the purpose, is situated on an em- inence south of the village, and commands an exten- sive view of a rich and beautiful country. It is 160 feet in length, and 40 in breadth, with projections in the centre and ends of 46 and 55 feet, and is 3 stories high, exclusive of a basement. To the building is attached a play-ground of about six acres, a part of which is to be devoted to a garden. The whole course of instruc- tion is on a scale corresponding with that of the most favored seminaries of learning in the country. About half a mile north of the village, at the junction of the Hubbardton with the main road, are slight re- mains of a fort and breast work, which were occupied during the revolution aiy war ; two miles north of which the Hubbardton road passes over the ground where a severe action was fought between a detachment of Burgoyne's army and a body of American troops. The latter composed the rear guard of the Americans which evacuated Ticonderoga in July, 1777, and were commanded by Col. Warner. They were about 1000 strong ; and were overtaken by a force of nearly the same number under Gen. Frazer. A long, severe, and obstinate conflict ensued ; when the arrival of General 330 FROM BURLINGTON TO BOSTON. Reidsell, with his division of Germans, compelled the Americans to give way in all directions. The British loss was stated by Gen. Burgoyne «.t 35 killed and 144 wounded ; and the American loss was estimated by Gen. St. Clair at 50 killed and wounded. It is generally supposed that the loss of both armies was much greater. The Americans retreated to the south, and took part in the Bennington battle on the 16th of August, and in the capture of Burgoyne at Saratoga in October fol- lowing. Rutland, 10 miles from Castleton, is the capital of Rutland county. It is situated 3 miles west of the Green Mountains, in view of Killington Peak, and for beauty of local situation is not surpassed by any village in the northern slates. It contains upwards of 100 houses, a bank, a court house, and a gaol. Ten miles from Rutland, in the town of Shrewsbury, the road reaches the foot of the Green Mountains, wliich are crossed in travelling 12 miles farther. No part of the passage is precipitous ; though the road is less pleasant than that leading from Manchester. {See p. 323.) Chester is 40 miles from Rutland ; from whence the route to Boston is the same as that noticed at page 324.) FROM BURLINGTON TO BOSTON, {through Windsm', Vt.) From Burlington, Vt. where the Champlain steam- boats touch in the passage up and down the lake, sta- ges depart for Boston three times a week, passing through Montpelicr and Windsor, Vt. Claremont and MONTPELIER. 331 Amherst, N. H., Billerica and Medford, Mass., and reach Boston on the third day. Distance 206 miles — Fare ^S. Tho intervening distances are as follows : Miles. Lempster, 12 Washington, 7 Hillsborough, 9 Francistown, 9 Mount Vernon, ...... 9 Amherst, 6 Merrimack, ......... 3 Dunstable, 7 I Tyngsborough, ...... 6 Chelmsford, 7 Billerica, 4 Woburn, 9 Boston, 10 Miles. Williston, 8 Richmond, 9 Bolton, 2 Waterbury, 8 Moretown, 4 Montpelier, 7 Willi amstown, 10 Brookfield, 8 Randolph, .12 Royalton, 3 Barnard, 6 W^oodstock, 8 Windsor, 14 Claremont, 9 Burlington. {See page 318.) Montpelier, is situated on the Onion River, a little north of the centre of the state, 38 miles from Burling- ton. It is at present the seat of government, and has a State-house, court-house, gaol, and a house of public worship, besides a number of manufacturing establish- ments. It contains about 2000 inhabitants. With the exception of a narrow vale, through which the river passes, the village is surrounded by lofty hills and mountains, which give it the appearance of seclu- sion from the rest of the world. The road for several miles previous to reaching the village, and after leaving it, is on the bank of the river, and the mountain scene- ry is unusually romantic. In passing from Montpelier to Randolph, the route is on what is termed the gulph road. This gulph is six DD 332 WOODSTOCK — WINDSOR. miles in extent, between lofty mountains, with barely a sufficient space for a road and the White river, a beau- tifully transparent stream, exhibiting, in most instan- ces, a bottom of white gravel. Randolph, 30 miles from Montpelier, is on a lofty ridge of land, affording some of the finest farms in the state. The village is small, but much admired for its location and neatness. RoTALTON, 3 miles. A pleasant village. Woodstock, 14 miles, the capital of Windsor coun- ty, is a place of considerable business. The principal village, called Woodstock Green, is on the bank of the Queechy river, and contains a court house, jail, church and a marble factory — also an extensive manufactory of scythes. Windsor, 14 miles, is a beautiful town on the banks of the Connecticut. The houses exhibit a very neat and handsome appearance, and stand in a fertile and richly cultivated tract of country. It contains a flour- ishing Female Seminary, with a number of churches, and the Vermont Penitentiary. The bridge built across the Connecticut at this place is one of the handsomest on the river. Ascutney, a mountain in the southwest part of the town, is 1732 feet in height, and is well wor- thy the attention of those who take delight in the rich and diversified prospects afforded from mountain sum- mits. At Windsor, the route crosses the Connecticut river into New-Hampshire, and proceeds through a fertile country, occasionally interspersed with a pleasant vil- lage, to Boston, ROUTE TO THE WHITE MOUNTAIMS. 333 FROM BURLINGTON TO BOSTON, {By ivay of the White Mountains and Concord^ J^ew- Hampshire — 265 miles.*) The intermediate distances on this route are as fol- lows From Burlington to Miles. Montpelier, .... Littleton, N. H. . . , E. A. Crawford's, 38 40 18 Notch of the White Mountains, .... 5 Notch House,. . . . 2 Crawford's Farm, 6 Bartlett, 7 Conway, Six Mile Pond, .... 10 126 11 Centre Harbor,. .. 24 Guilford, 13 Union Bridge, .... 7 Miles. Winnepiseogee Bridge, 4 Concord, 17 202 Pembroke, 4 Candia, 12 Chester, 6 Londonderry, .... 5 N. H. State line,.. 12 Andover Bridge, . . 3 Andover, 4 VVoburn, 8 Medford, 5 Boston, 4 265 * Strangers designing to proceed directly to Boston from Burlington, via Concord, N. H. without visiting the White Mountains, continue on the route from Mont- pelier to Randolph, as noticed at p. 331, and from thence to Hanover, 25 miles, and to Concord 55 miles farther. (The route from the latter place to Boston is noticed at p. 343.) Hanover is located on a handsome plain, half a mile from the Connecticut river, and contains the buildings of Dartmouth college and about 80 dwelling houses. The college derives its name from William, Earl ofDarmouth, one of its principal benefactors. It was founded in 1769, by the late Doct. Eleazer Whee- lock, and is in a flourishing condition. A medical in- stitution is connected with the college, and is accom- modated with a brick edifice, containing, besides rooms for students, a laboratory, anatomical museum, miner- alogical cabinet, library and lecture rooms. The num- ber of students educated at this college annually is be- tween 2 and 300. 334 ROUTE TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. A stage can be taken at Burlington 3 times a week for Montpelier, Vt. distant 38 miles, where it is re- commended to travellers to proceed to Littleton, N. H. 40 miles east of Montpelier, from whence a stage passes twice a week through the Jfotch of the White Mountains to Conway ; and from thence to Portland, (Maine,) three times a week. From Littleton to Ethan A. Crawford's, at the foot of the mountains, 18 miles, about half the distance is through a cultivated country ; but the remaining part is through an extensive, and, but for the road, an impenetrable forest. The first view of the White Mountains, as distin- guished from the multitude of peaks and summits which meet the eye in every direction, is obtained a short distance from Littleton ; but INIount W'^ashington is not seen till arriving near to Crawford's. The first view of these mountains is magnificent, and as they are approached they become more and more so until the bare, bleak summit of Mount Wasliington rising far above the immense piles which surround it, strikes the traveller with awe and astonishment. But the emo- tions which one receives from the grand and majestic scenery which surrounds him here, are utterly beyond the power of description. There is no single object upon which the eye rests and which the mind may grasp, but the vast and multiplied features of the land- scape actually bewilder while they delight. These mountains are the loftiest in the U. States east of the Rocky Mountains ; and their heights above the Connecticut river have been estimated as follows : Washington, 5350 ft.; Jefferson, 5261 ; Adams, 5383 ; Madison, 5039 ; Monroe, 4932 ; Quincy, 4470. From WHITE MOUNTAINS. 336 the summit of Mount Washington, the Atlantic ocean is seen at Portland, 65 miles S. E. ; the Katahdin Mountains to the N. E. near the sources of the Penob- scot river ; the Green Mountains of Vermont on the west ; Mount Monadnock, 120 miles to the S. W. ; and numerous lakes, rivers, &c. within a less circumference. The J^otch or Gap is on the west side of the mountains, and is a deep and narrow defile, in one place only 22 feet wide. A road passes through which is crossed by the river Saco ; into which several tributary streams enter from the mountain heights, forming many beau- ful cascades. Lafayette Mountain is situated in the northeast part of the township of Franconia, nearly equidistant from Mount Washington in the northeast, and Moose-Hillock in the southwest, being about 20 miles from each ; and it is obviously more elevated than any other summit in sight, except the White Mountains. At the Franconia Notch, near the road leading from Franconia to Plymouth, and about three miles south of Mount Lafayette, a foot path has been cleared out from the road to the top of the mountain. The point where the path commences is six miles from the Franconia iron works, and the length of it from the road to the summit is three miles; and throughout this distance it is almost uniformly steep. The ascent for the dis- tance of about two miles is through a thick forest of hemlock, spruce, &c. Higher up, the mountain is en- compassed with a zone, about half a mile in width, cov- ered with stunted trees, chiefly hemlock and spruce. Above the upper edge of this zo^e, which is about half a mile from the top, trees and shrubs disappear. The dd2 336 WHITE MOUNTAINS. summit is composed chiefly of bare rocks, partly in large masses, and partly broken into small pieces. The view from the top is exceedingly picturesque and magnificent. Although it is not so extensive as that from the summit of Moimt Washington, yet ow- ing to the more advantageous situation of Lafayette, being more central as it respects this mountainous re- gion, it is not inferior to it in either beauty or grandeur. The view to the north-east, east, south and southwest, is one grand panorama of mountain scenery, present- ing more than fifty summits, which when viewed from this elevation, do not appear to differ greatly in height. Some of these mountains are covered with verdure to the top, while the summits of others are composed of naked rocks ; and down the sides of many of them may be seen slides or avcdanches of earth, rocks and trees more or less extensive, which serve to diversify the scene. The only appearance of cultivation in this whole compass is confined to a few farms seen in a di- rection west of south, on the road to Plymouth, extend- ing along the Pemigewasset branch of the Merrimack. To the west is seen the territory watered by the Con- necticut and the Ammonoosuck. At a place in the road through the Franconia Notch where the path up the mountain commences, is exhi- bited to the view of the traveller, on the mountain opposite to Lafayette, the Profile or the Old Mail of the JMountain, a singular lusus natura, and a remarkable curiosity. It is situated on the brow of the peak or precipice, which rises almost perpendicularly from the surface of a snir.ll lake, directly in front, to the height (as estimated) of from 600 to 1000 feet. The front of \ WHITE MOUNTAINS. 337 this precipice is formed of solid rock, but as viewed from tiie point where the profile is seen, the whole of it appears to be covered with trees and vegetation, ex- cept about space enough for a side view of the Old Man's bust. All the principal features of the human face, as seen in a profile, are formed with surprising exactness. The little lake at the bottom of the preci- pice is about half a mile in length, and is one of the sources of the Pemigewasset river. Half a mile to the north of this, there is another lake, surrounded with romantic scenery, nearly a mile in length, and more than half a mile in breadth. This is one of the sources of the southern branch of the Ammonoosuck, which flows into the Connecticut. These lakes are both sit- uated in the Notch, very near the road, and near to the point where the steep ascent of Mount Lafayette commences. The northern lake is 900 feet above the site of the Franconia iron- works, and the highest point in the road through the Notch is 1023 feet above the same level. Other curiosities in this vicinity are, the Basin and the Pulpit. The portiori of the Gap, including the Notch in the White Mountains, which is the most sublime and inter- esting is about 5 or 6 miles in length. It is composed of a double barrier of mountains, rising very abruptly from both sides of the wild roaring river Saco, wliich frequently washes the feet of both barriers. Sometimes there is not room for a single carriage to pass between the stream and the mountains, and the road is cut into the mountain itself. This double barrier rises on each side to the height of nearly half a mile in perpendicular altitude, and is capped here and there by proud castcl- 338 WHITE MOUNTAINS. lated turrets, standing high above the continued ridges. These are not straight, but are formed into numerous zig-zag turns, which frequently cut off the view and seem to imprison the traveller in the vast, gloomy gulf. The sides of the mountains are deeply furrowed and scarred by the tremendous effects of the memorable deluge and avalanches of 1826. No tradition existed of any slide in former times, and such as are now ob- served to have formerly happened, had been complete- ly veiled by forest growth and shrubs. At length, on the 28th of June, two months before the fatal avalanche, there was one not far from the Willey house, which so far alarmed the family, that they erected an encamp- ment a little distance from their dwelHng, intending it as a place of refuge. On the fatal night, it was impen- etrably dark and frightfully tempestuous ; the lonely family had retired to rest, in their humble dwelling, six miles from the nearest human creature. The avalan- ches descended in every part of the gulf, for a distance of two miles ; and a very heavy one began on the mountain top, immediately above the house, and de- scended in a direct line towards it ; the sweeping tor- rent, a river from the clouds, and a river full of trees, earth, stones, and rocks, rushed to the house and mar- vellously divided within six feet of it, and just behind it, and passed on either side, sweeping away the stable and horses, and completely encircling the dwelling, but leaving it untouched. At this time, probably towards midnight, (as the state of the beds and apparel, &c. shewed that they had retired to rest,) the family issued from their house, and were swept away by the tor- rent. WHITE MOUNTAINS. 339 Search was, for two or three days, made in vain for the bodies, when they were at length found. They were evidently floated along by the torrent and cover- ed by the drift wood. A pole, with a board nailed across it, hke a guide post, now indicates the spot where the bodies were found. Had the family remained in the house they would have been entirely safe. Even the little green in front and east of the house was un- disturbed, and a flock of sheep, (a part of the posses- ion of the family) remained on this small spot of ground, and were found there the next morning in safety — al- though the torrent dividing just above the house, and forming a curve on both sides, had swept completely around them, and again united below, and covered the meadows and orchard with ruins, which remain there to this day. Nine persons were destroyed by this ca- tastrophe, and the story of their virtues and their fate is often told to the traveller by the scattered popula- tion of these mountain valleys, in a style of simple pathos and minuteness of detail, which has all the in- terest of truth and incident of romance in its recital. The scene of tliis disaster was about 7 miles from Ethan A. Crawford's, and 2 miles from the commence- of the Notch, where Thomas Crawford, a brother of Ethan, now resides. The number of visitors to the White Mountains has been considerably increased, on account of the inter- est excited by these avalanches. The most sublime views of them, (several of which are nearly equal to the memorable one which swept away the unfortunate Willey family,) may be seen all along for several miles, in passing through the Notch. They arc also observed 340 WHITE MOUNTAINS. from various points in the country around, extending down the sides of many of the elevated mountains ; and the astonishing effects of this extraordinary inun- dation are also witnessed in the great enlargement of the channels of the streams which rise in these cluster of mountains. This is the fact especially with regard to the channel of the principal branch of the Ammo- noosuck, which rises near the summit of Mount Wash- ington. The camp which was built by Mr. Crawford for the accommodation of visitors over night, two miles and a quarter from the summit of Mount Washington, was situated near this branch, and was carried away by the swelling of the stream. A small camp has been erected in its place, but it is of little use, and affords no accommodations for lodging visitors over night. The distance from Crawford's house to the summit of Mount Washington, is nine miles. Through a part of this distance a carriage road is now made, leaving only 4 or 5 miles to be ascended on foot. The time usually occupied in asccending the mountain, reckon- ing from the time of leaving Crawford's house to the time of returning to it again, is from ten to fourteen hours ; and the shortest time in which the enterprise has been performed is about eight hours. Continuing the route through the Notch, the first house reached, is the Elder Crawford's, six miles from the " Notch house," as that once occupied by the un- fortunate Willey is called. From thence to Bartlett is 7 miles. From this place to Conway, wluch is ten miles, there are more appearaces of cultivation, parti- cularly in the little valley through which the road pass- FROM CONWAY TO CONCORD. 341 es. The country around, however, is still wild and unimproved, displaying a succession of bold and lofty mountain scenery. The prospect at the village of Conway is bounded on the north and west by high mountains, and the several summits of the White Moun- tains, rising at 30 miles distant, are more easily distin- guished than at any point near them. Fryeburgh, in Maine, is 10 miles from Conway, and is generally taken in the route to the White Mountains from the east. It is a considerable village, built upon a wide plain upon two broad streets, and has a respectable academy. It is chiefly interesting as being associated with the early history of our country. About a mile from the village is Lovell's pond, the scene of the bloody fight in 1725 between a gallant band of Americans under Capt. Lovell, and the remnant of the Pequawcket tribe under the renowned Chief Paugus. From Fryeburgh to Portland, distant 52 miles, the road is over a dull and uninteresting country ; but trav- ellers designing to visit that place in connection with the White Mountains, will find it the most direct route. [FffT a description of Portland, see the route from Boston to that place in subsequent pages.] FROM CONWAY TO CONCORD, N. H.— 76mUes. Returning to Conway, and proceeding on the route to Concord, Six Mile Pond is passed in going 11 miles, and Centre Harbor is reached in going 24 miles farther. The road, for 20 or 30 miles, is through a valley bor- dered with lofty mountains, exhibiting only an occa- sional settlement. 342 CENTRE HARBOR — CONCORD. Centre Harbor is on Lake Winnipiseogee, the largest lake in the state. It is 23 miles long and from 6 to 14 broad, and is remarkable for its beautiful and sublime scenery. From the top of Red Mountain, in Centre Harbor, 1500 feet high, and which is accessible for about two thirds of the way in a carriage, there is an extensive prospect. At the distance of 70 miles to the southwest, may be seen Mount Monadnock ; at the west, the Kyarsage and Simson mountains ; at the northwest the Moose-Hillock ; at the north, the Sand- \vich mountains, with the Squam lake intervening ; at the southeast, the Winnipiseogee lake, with its numer- ous islands, bays, and the mountains which rise from its borders, including Ossippee on the northeast, Gun- stock on the south, and a semi-circular mountain at the termination of the lake at the southeast ; the whole forming a vast billowy ocean of lofty mountains, with their grand intersecting curves, exhibiting a complete panorama of the sublimest mountain scenery. Squam Lake, which lies west of the mountain, is 10 miles long and 5 wide, and like the Winnipiseogee, is sprinkled with numerous small and beautiful islands. The finest of trout are caught in these lakes, and their shores abound with an abundance of game, affording to the angler and fowler ample means of employment as well as amusement. The route from Centre Harbor to Concord, 41 miles, passes through an interesting country, affording a view of several flourishing manufacturing villages. Concord is the capital of New-Hampshire. The vil- lage is principally composed of two streets on the west ROUTE FROM CONCORD TO BOSTON. 843 bank of the Merrimack rivei-, and contains a state house, state prison, town house, bank, several church- es, 4 or 5 printing offices, and rising of 200 dwelhng- houses. The state house, located near the centre of the village, is an elegant building of hewn granite, 100 feet long, with a large hall on the first floor, and the senate and representatives' chambers on the second. The building is surrounded by a spacious yard, which is enclosed with a handsome wall. The state prison, a strong building, is a short distance from the state house. The Merrimack river is navigable for large boats from Concord to Chelmsford ; from whence to Boston the communication is continued in the Middlesex canal, 28 miles long. FROM CONCORD TO BOSTON. Stages leave Concord every day at 7 A. M. passing through Pembroke, Hookset, Chester, Londonderry, New-Salem, Melhuen, Andover, Reading, Stoneham, Medford and Charlestown, to Boston. Distance 68 miles. Fare $3. Pembroke, 4 miles from Concord, is located on the east side of the Merrimack river. It is a thriving village, and besides several handsome dwellings, contains 2 churches, an academy, 4 paper mills and a cotton fac- tory. HooKSETT, 3 miles farther. The Merrimack here descends 16 feet in the course of 30 rods. Chester, 15 miles, is a pleasant village, containing a flourishing Academy. EE 344 ANDOVER — LOWELL. Londonderry, 5 miles from Chester, is principally settled with emigrants from Ireland. It contains two small villages, two churches and an academy. Methuen, is miles farther, is situated on the north side of the Merrimack. Near the village on the Spick- et creek, is a handsome fall of 30 feet. A bridge here crosses the river to Andover, which contains an extensive theological seminary and a flourishing academy. The former was founded in 1808 and has already received more than $350,000 in contributions, principally from six families. The buildings are on a lofty eminence, and assume a very rich and handsome appearance. Lowell, 12 miles from Boston, is one of the largest manufacturing towns in the U. States. It is located on the Merrimack river and the Middlesex canal leading to Boston. The falls of the river at this place are 30 feet, and aflbrd the most ample means for extensive op- erations by water power. The village and the first facto- ry were commenced in 1813, and the place now as- sumes the character of a large bustling town, laid into streets with much taste and elegance, and the whole appearance of the place rendered peculiarly interesting from the magnificent and numerous factories and pub- lic buildings with which it is adorned. Medford, 4 miles from Boston, is on the Mystic riv- er ; S miles from which is the handsome village of Charlestown. (See jj. 364.) Boston is 1 mile farther, the Charlestown bridge in- tervening. {See p. 356.) ROUTo: FROM ALBANY To BOSTON. 345 FROM ALBANY TO BOSTON. From Albany, stages leave daily for Boston, which is distant 164 miles, and the route is performed in two days. Fare $3,75. One line passes through Benning- ton and Brattleborough, Vt., but the most usual route is through New-Lebanon, Pittsfield, Northampton, Brookfield, Worcester and Watertown. The several stages and distances on the last men- tioned route are as follows : Miles. Schodack, 5 Nassau, 12 New-Lebanon, 8 Pittsfield, 9 Dalston, 6 Peru, 7 Worthington, 8 Chesterfield, 9 Northampton, 13 Hadley, 2 Miles. Belchertown, 10 Ware, 9 Brookfield, 8 Spencer, 7 Leicester, 5 Worcester, 6 Framingham, 20 Weston, 5 Watertown, 5 Boston, 10 Albany, {Seep. 135.) New-Lebanon is a pleasant village in the town of Canaan, N. Y. bordering on Pittsfield, Mass. and is 25 miles from Albany. It contains a mineral spring of considerable importance, vi'hich is much frequented in the summer months by invalids. It is principally used for the purposes of bathing ; but is much inferior to the Saratoga waters either as a medicine or beverage. The fountain issues from the side of a high hill, in great abundance, discharging at the rate of 18 barrels per minute ; and is used as a feeder for several mills. The water is remarkably pure and soft, and is perfectly S46 NEW-LEBANON — PITTSFIELD. tasteless and inodorous. Gas, in considerable quanti- ties, escapes from the pebbles and sand, and keeps the water in constant motion. It contains small quanti- ties of Muriate of Lime, Muriate of Soda, Sulphate of Lime, and Carbonate of Li^e j and its temperature is 73 degrees of Farenheit. Convenient bathing houses are kept in readiness at all times, for the accommodation of strangers; and there are a number of boarding establishments which, at different rates, afford proportionate fare. Near the spring is what is called the Shakers' Village, containing a number of neat, plain buildings, generally painted yellow. The property of this society is held in common ; and they are said to possess nearly 3000 acres of fertile land. Besides agricultural pursuits, they carry on several branches of manufactures, which are distinguished by excellence, of workmanship. The singular regulations and ceremonies of these people, constitute an object of attention to tourists. Nine miles from New-Lebanon is the village of PiTTSFiELD, rendered elegant from its local situation, and from the neatness of its buildings. The village contains about 160 houses,'a bank, an academy, 2 print- ing offices and several stores. Here are annually held the Cattle Show and Fair of the celebrated Berkshire Agricultural Society, which has been incorporatsd by act of the legislature ; and which has done more to- wards improving the condition of agriculture than any other institution of the kind in the Union. The show and fair, which occupy two days, never fail to impart JJORTHAMPTON. S47 an uniisual degree of interest, and are always attend- ed by immense crowds of citizens.* Northampton is 43 miles from Pittsfield, and is one of the finest towns in New-England. It is situated a mile and a half west of Connecticut river, and was set- * About 24 miles north of Pittsfield, in the town of Adams, there is a J^atural Bndge, but little inferior to the celebrated natural bridge in Virginia. The excava- tion or gutter is in solid hme rock, 40 rods in length, varying from 50 to 60 feet in height, through which runs Hudson's Brook or the north branch of the Hoo- sic, occupying from 13 to 14 feet, which is the uninter- rupted width of the cup. Over this the bridge is thrown, being 62 feet from the bed of the brook, 15 feet long 10 wide, arched beneath, and what renders it a matter of greater curiosity, the arch is perfectly smooth, and beautifully white. On the west side of the arch is a circular cut room, large enough to contain ten persons. The whole place bears the marks of be- ing wrought by the irritation of the waters in a most workmanhke manner. For ages this cause must have operated in producing the result. In the neighbor- hood of the bridge the rocks are somewhat open ; up- on examining which, they are found leading to large caverns, worked out by the constant friction of water. The roar of water and the sublimity of the scenery, produce an indescribable sensation upon the visitor which induces him to retreat, being warned that he stands on slippery places. There are many traditions respecting the precipice — one is, that a war party of Indians, on an expedition to Brookfield, in one of the early Indian wars, was dashed to pieces on the rocks below. Some fifteen or twenty years ago, a Mr. Briggs, then a student in William's College, visited the place unaccompanied. Curiosity tempted him to ex- plore more fully the precipice, and, by the assistance ee2 3\H MOUNT HULYOk'G. tied ag early as the year 1654. It contains a bank, 2 printing offices, court house, gaol, and 300 dwellings, some of which are very elegant. The Congregational church, which is built of wood, is considered one of the most beautiful structures in the state. There are sev- eral manufactories here ; and the place exhibits an unusual degree of enterprize and wealth. The Far- inington canal commences at this place, and extends to New-Haven, Conn. 60 miles. Mount Holyoke, in the vicinity of Northampton, is much frequented by tourists. It is situated on the east side of the river opposite to Northampton. The height of this mountain above the level of the river is 1070 feet. In consequence of the resort to this place, which has been not less than from two to five thousand an- of poles, he desconded to the base of it. Here his eyes feasted upon the wonders of nature. His curiosity be- ing gratified, he began to think of returning. After re- peated trials he gave it up, and inscribed on the rock his farewell to his friends and the world. His voice could not reach the habitation of man, and the rocks were, to all appearance, to be bis grave. He, however, began to repeat the notching in the side, which was marble, and after a painful labor of several hours, he effected his escape. But the exertion proved too much ; it undermined his health, and in a few months he was conveyed to his grave. This place was discovered by a Mr. Hudson, while travelling the wilderness, a few years before the French war. He came to it in the night, where he remained, and heard the roaring of the mighty torrent beneath him. The next morning he perceived that had he advanced a few steps more he would have been plunged into eternity. From this circumstance, the brook and the falls bear his name. LEAD MINE. 349 hually, two buildings have been erected on its summit for the purpose of accommodating visitors with re- freshments. The beautiful and extensive prospect af- forded from the top of the mountain, will amply com- pensate the labor and difficulty of the ascent. The view embraces eminences 160 miles apart, with sever- al beautiful villages and a rich and fertile country in- tervening, and is said to be unrivalled in the eastern states. The Lead Mine at Southampton, 8 miles south west of Northampton, is an object of much interest, and should be visited, if practicable, in an excursion to the eastern states. The vein is 6 or 8 feet in diameter, and declines 10 or 15 degrees from a perpendicular. It has been explored to the depth of 40 or 50 feet and 30 or 40 rods in length ; and the ore is found in masses from a quarter of an inch to a foot in diameter. The Journal of Science remarks, that " at the depth above mentioned, the water became so abundant that it was thought advisable to abandon a perpendicular explora- tion, and to descend to the foot of the hill on the east, nearly 80 rods from the vein, and attempt a horizontal drift, or adit ; and ever since its commencement, eight or ten years ago, the working of the vein has ceased. This drift is now carried into the hill, on an exact level, nearly 60 rods, and the workmen told me, that not less than $20,000 had been expended upon it. Tlie rocks that have been penetrated, reckoning from the mouth of the drift inwards, are geest, the red and gray slates of the coal formation, with thin beds of coal and mica slate, and granite alternating. Probably the funda- mental dcposite of granite is now uncovered ; and the S50 LEAD MINE. principal vein of galena cannot be far distant. Several small branch veins of crystalized quartz and galena have been crossed, and several specimens of these, col- lected by Dr. Hunt, were very rich and beautiful ; the crystals of pure galena sometimes exhibit, on their fa- ces, insulated crystals of honey colored carbonate of lime. The principal vein will be found not less, I should judge, than 150 feet below the surface ; and when that time comes, it is confidently expected, not only that the proprietors will be rewarded for the great expense they have incurred, but also, that many a rich specimen will be found to ornament the mineral cabl- ets of our country, and to vie in beauty with the lead ores of Europe. The mouth of the drift is 4 or 5 feet wide, and about 3 feet above the surface of the water. The water is deep enough the whole length of it, to admit the pas- sage of a loaded boat. The person wishing to explore this internal canal, must fire a gun at the entrance, or beat heavily with a sledge on the timbers that support the soil ; in 10 or 15 minutes, he will perceive a gentle undulation of the water, and soon after, a boat advan- cing with lighted lamps and a rower ; having seated himself on the bottom of this boat, and provided him- self with an additional garment, he is prepared for his subterranean expedition. As he enters the passage, he will for a moment experience, or imagine he experi- ences, a little difficulty of breathing. But he will soon become reconciled to lois condition ; and after passing about 100 feet in the excavation, for which distance the soil is supported by timbers, he will find occasionally more room, so that he can stand erect. If he looks HADLEY. 351 back, after having advanced several hundred feet, the light at the entrance will appear diminished to the size of a candle ; and before he reaches the extremity, it becomes invisible. About half way from the entrance to the end of the drift, he will pass a shaft, down which a small brook is turned, for the purpose of aiding the ventilator. When he reaches the end of the drift, he finds himself to have penetrated nearly 60 rods, chiefly into solid rock. The miners do not quit the drift when they blast, but retire behind a breast work thrown up for the purpose. One man has been an inmate of that dark recess eight or ten years without suffering in his health. Every mineralogist passing that way, will of course visit this drift. Intelligent gentlemen without profes- sional views, and even ladies, not unfrequently enter this cavity." Hax>ley, 2 miles from Northampton, is one of the oldest towns in the state. It was the head quarters of the army employed for the defence of the towns on the Connecticut river, in the war with Phillip in 1675- 6 ; and was, for a long time, the place of residence of the two regicides or judges, Whalley and Goffe, in the time of Charles the second. On the town being at- tacked by the Indians during this war, a stranger, ven- erable in appearance, and differing in his apparel from the rest of the inhabitants, suddenly presented himself at the head of the colonial troops, and encourraged them by his advice and example to perseverance in de- fending the place. To his experience in military tac- tics and courage, in a great measure, was a defeat of the Indians attributable. When they retreated, the 352 HADLEY. stranger disappeared ; and in those times of supersti- tion, it was verily believed by many that he was the guardian angel of the place. But he was no other thaa Col. Goffe, who seeing the village in danger, left his concealment to unite with its inhabitants in a vigorous defence. In connection with the history of this place, the fol- lowing biographical sketch of Goffe, Whalley and Dix- well may not prove uninteresting : On the restoration of the English monarch, Charles 2d, in 1660, several of the judges who sat on the trial of Charles 1st, were seized, condemned and executed. Others, foreseeing the result, escaped. Whalley and Goffe, two of the number, came to Boston ; where, for a time, they received the hospitality due to their rank. But on learning that several of the regicides had been executed, and that Whalley and Goffe had not been in- cluded in the act of pardon, the people who had har- bored them began to be alarmed ; and the two judges abruptly departed for Connecticut. Subsequently, the King's proclamation was received, requiring their ap- prehension. They, however, eluded the vigilance of their pursurers, by secreting themselves in a cave and other secret places at New-Haven, where they contin- ued, between three and four years, until their retreat was discovered by the Indians. Finding that they could no longer remain at New-Haven in safety, and that a vigilant search for them was still continued, they resolved to remove into a more secluded part of the country. A friend had succeeded in inducing the Rev. Mr. Russell, of Hadley, to receive them ; and af- ter a toilsome journey by night, they reached liis house WARE FACTORY VILLAGE. 353 m October, 1664. In a chamber of this house, (which was situate on the east side, and near the centre of the present main street,) having a secret passage to the cellar, they remained undiscovered for fifteen or sixteen years. During this period, Goffe held a correspon- dence with his wife in England, under an assumed name ; and in a letter of April, 1679, it is stated that Whalley had died some time previous, at Mr. Russell's. His bones were discovered not many years since in a sort of tomb adjoining the cellar wall of Mr. Russell's house. Not long after Goffe and Whalley arrived at Hadley, they were joined by Col. John Dixwell, another of the judges. After remaining some time, he went to New- Haven, assumed the name of Davids, was married, had several children, and his real name was not known un- till his death in 1689. He was buried in the church- yard at that place ; where a coarse stone still marks the spot of his interment, with this inscription : " J. D. Esq. deceased, March 18, in the 82d year of his age — 1688-9." After the death of Whalley, Goffe travelled to the south, and no certain information relative to his fate has ever been obtained. From Hadley to Belchertown, a pleasant village, is 10 miles, and from thence to Ware Factory Village, is 9 miles farther. This place, located on the Ware river, has attained to an as- tonishing growth within a short time. There are few places in the country exhibiting so barren and rugged a soil as the site and lands adjacent to this flourishing little city in miniature. As you approach from the west 354 BROOKFIELD — LEICESTER. or east, it bursts upon the view with its long range of manufactories, its neat white houses, and gUttering spires, producing the same sensation in the bosom, as the prospect of a beautiful garden in the midst of a de- sert. It contains several public buildings, which would be an ornament to our most flourishing inland towns of more ancient date. Brookfield, 8 miles from Ware, is a handsome town, though very little improved by any recent additions of buildings. This place was burnt by the Indians in 1675. On the first alarm, the inhabitants, in all about 70, repaired to a house slightly fortified externally with logs, and internally lined with feather beds, to check the force of musketry^ This spot was soon surround- ed by the enemy, and a constant fire poured upon it in all directions. But the well directed shots of the be- sieged kept the Indians at a considerable distance. Various devices were used by the latter for burning the building ; but their plans were thwarted by the whites, aided by a. plentiful shower of rain. The attack con- tinued for three days ; when the appearance of a bo- dy of troops from Lancaster induced the Indians to seek their own safety in a precipitate retreat. All the buildings in the village except the one fortified, were destroyed. Only one of the inhabitants, howev- er, was killed ; while the loss of the Indians was 80. Leicester, 12 miles. The village contains an aca- demy, 3 churches and about 80 dwellings. The prin- cipal employment of the inhabitants is the manufac- ture of (woollen cards^; of which a very large amount is annually made. WORCESTER — BLACKSTONE CANAL. 355 Worcester, (6 miles,) is one of the oldest and most respectable towns in the state. It contains from three to four hundred houses, generally well built. Here are also a bank, four printing offices, a court-house and a jail. A. newspaper which was commenced by Isaiah Thomas some time previous to the revolutionary war, is still published here, and is the oldest paper in the Union. Mr. Thomas, who has written an elaborate history of the art of printing, resides in the village, and has been created an honorary member of many litera- ry institutions in the United States. He has erected in the village, at very considerable expense, a hand- some building, for the reception of the library and cab- inet of the American Antiquarian Society, of which he is president. The library consists of about 6000 vol- umes, many of them of great antiquity, and the cabinet is also very valuable. The Blackstone Canal commences at this place, and extends to Providence, R. I. Length 45 miles — expense rising of $500,000. From Worcester to Boston the distance is 40 miles, over a beautiful road, which passes through a rich country, variegated with villages, which increase in size and importance as the tourist advances towards the metropolis of the state. FP S56 BOStON. BOSTON* Is pleasantly situated at the bottom of Massachu- setts Bay, on a peninsula of an uneven surface, two miles long, and in the widest part about one mile broad. The town owes its origin to a spirit of civil and religious liberty, which was excited to action by the persecutions that prevailed in England, during the reigns of Queen Elizabeth, and Kings James and Charles the First. Most of those who can properly be consid- ered SiS first settlers arrived prior to the year 1643. The place was first called Trimountain, in consequence of three hills which were on the peninsula. It was after- wards called Boston, in honor of the Rev. Mr. Cotton, a minister of the first church in the town, and whose native place was Boston in England. The harbor is one of the best in the United States. It has a sufficient depth of water for the largest vessels at all times of tide, and is accessible at all seasons of the year. It is safe from every wind, and so capa- cious that it will allow 500 vessels to ride at anchor, while the entrance is so narrow as scarcely to admit two ships abreast. It contains about 75 square miles, within which are upwards of 100 islands or rocks ; and receives within its bosom the waters of the Mystic, Charles, Neponset and Manatticut rivers, besides sever- al streams of less magnitude. *Bowen's Picture of Boston, published by A. Bowen, No. 2, Congress street, will prove a valuable guide to strangers visiting that city and its environs. ; BOSTON. 357 Boston is very extensively engaged in commerce, and there are probably few cities in the world where there is so much wealth in proportion to the population. The trade, too, received from an extensive inland country is very great, the facilities for approaching the city being rendered easy by means of excellent roads. The appearance of Boston is much admired by stran- gers, particularly when approaching from the sea. Its streets do not exhibit so great a regularity as some oth- er cities ; but its beautiful location and elegant public and private buildings, together with its richly orna- mented grounds for promenading, render it altogether a peculiarly delightful and attractive place. The city is divided into four local districts, calfed, North Boston, West Boston, South End and South Boston. From Copp's Hill, in North Boston, which is partly occupied for a church yard, the British cannona- ded the town of Charlestown in 1775, during the battle of Bunker Hill, when the village was mostly destroyed by conflagration. In the south western part of the city, and in front of the state house, is the celebrated Common, presenting an area of more than 75 acres, containing the Mall, a very beautiful public walk, adorned with rows of trees. Tliis is a delightful promenade during the summer months, and is a place of general resort. In the cen- tre of the Common is an eminence still exhibiting marks of the fortification erected by the British here during the revolution ; north of which is the Crescent Pond, a beautiful sheet of water, surrounded with trees. Near the Mall, in Mason street, is the Medical college, an edifice belonging to the Harvard University, sur- mounted by a dome with a sky-Ught and balustrade. 358 BOSTON. The Boston Alhmmm is located near the head of Pearl street, and is a very spacious building containing appropriate rooms. The number of volumes attached to the institution is about 25,000. It also contains nearly 14,000 medals and coins, some of which are very rare and interesting. The rooms are open from 8 A. M. to 9 P. M. and can be visited by strangers introduced by subscribers. The Gallery of Fine Arts is a handsome structure in the rear of the Atheneum, and'is appropriated for scientific lectures, the Academy of Arts and Sciences, the Mas- sachusetts Medical Library, a philosophical apparatus of the Mechanic Institution, and for paintings ; the lat- ter of which are exhibited in the upper story, and are generally very elegant. Among the other literary institutions in the city are the Massachusetts Historical Societij, who have an ex- tensive library in a spacious apartment over the arch in Franklin street : the Boston Library Society, who have a collection of 6000 volumes ; and the Columbian Li- brary, which contains about 4,500 volumes. There are also numerous other libraries of less note. Among the benevolent institutions, are the House of Industry at South Boston, of rough dimension stone, 220 feet long, and 43 wide; the Massachusetts General Hospital, founded in 1818, which has been richly endowed by the state and individuals ; and a Hospital for the Insane, the buildings of which are at Charlestown. The first houses built in the city were plain and the streets narrow and crooked ; but a few years have wrought a striking and almost incredible change ; new streets have been laid out, old ones straightened and BOSTON. 359 improved, and neat brick and granite dwellings have been substituted for the ill-shapen and decaying houses of wood. The private buildings, and many of the stores recently erected, are more splendid than in any other city in the United States. In 1817, there was erected on each side of Market street, a block of brick stores more than 400 feet in length, and 4 stories high ; and on Central Wharf another immense pile of build- ings was completed the same year, 1240 feet long, con- taining 54 stores 4 stories high, having a spacious hall in the centre, over which is erected an elegant obser- vatory. Other costly works have been constructed which do honor to the town ; but the project which exceeded them all in boldness of design, in promise ot public benefit, and in energy of execution, is that which within three or four years has been accomplish- ed in the vicinity of Fanueil Hall Market. The exten- sive rows of granite stores, four stories high, construct- ed after the best model, bound this newly perfected en- terprise. Between these two ranges of stores, stands the new Market House, at the distance of 102 feet from those on the south side, and sixty-five feet from the north. The centre part of the building is 74 by 55 feet, having a hall in the second story. The wings are each 231 feet long by 50 wide, and two sto- ries high. They have each a portico of four columns, 23 feet high ; the shafts of granite, in a single piece. The construction of the whole is of hammered granite of a uniform color. Among the public buildings are the State House, which is built on elevated ground, commanding a fine view of the surrounding country, and containing an el- ff2 360 BOSTON. egant statue of Washington, which cost $15,000 ; the new county Court-House, built of stone at an expense of $92,000 ; the municipal Court-House ; a new stone Jail ; Fanueil Hall, where all public meetings of the citizens are held ; two Theatres, one of which (the Tre- mont) was erected in 1827, at a cost of about $120,000, being 135 feet in length and about SO in breadth, the front of Hallowell and Quincy granite, in imitation of the Ionic order, with four pilastres supporting an entabla- ture and pediment, and elevated on a basement of 17 feet ; the Custom-House, Merchant's Hall, Boylston Market and Boylston Hall ; U. S. Branch Bank ; Con- cert, Julian, Corinthian, Pantheon, Washington and Cliauncy Halls. Bridges. — There are six bridges connecting Boston with the adjacent towns. Charles River bridge, which connects it with Charleston on the north, 1503 feet long ; West Boston bridge, connecting it Avith Cam- bridge Port on the west, 7810 feet long; Cragie's or Canal bridge, between these two, connects it with Lechmere Point, 2796 feet long ; and two bridges unit- ing it to South Boston. The other avenue is a mill dam, nearly two miles long and fifty feet wide, across the bay on the southwest side of the city ; which not orl" furnishes a bridge, but puts in operation extensive tide-mills and other water woi'ks. Churches. — There are nearly 50 churches in Boston, many of which have been built at great expense, and are very elegant. On one of the quoins at the south- west corner of the Brattle street church, of which Gov. Hancock was a benefactor, his name had been inscrib- ed ', but it was effaced by the British soldiery during BOSTON. 361 the revolution, and the stone has been permitted to re- main as they left it. A shot from the Americans on the night previous to the evacuation of Boston by the British still remains in the tower where it originally struck. In St. Paul's church, in Common street, there is an elegant monument to the memory of Gen. War- ren, who was slain on Bunker Hill, and whose remains are entombed in the cemetery beneath this church. Burial Grounds. — In the Chapel burial ground, north of the stone chapel, there are several ancient monu- ments ; and among others that of Gov. Winthrop, who died in 1649. In the Copp^s Hill ground similar memen- toes of antiquity are found. In the Granary ground, the cenotaph erected to the memory of Doct. Frankhn stands over the tomb, in which repose the remains of both his parents. The tombs of Governors Bellingham, Sumner and Sullivan are also in this ground. The ^eiO'Eiigland Museum, in Court street, is prob- ably the best in the U. States, and should be visited by every stranger before leaving the city. Hotels. — Tremont House is the most superb hotel in Boston, and not inferior to any in the Union. It is three stories high in front and four on the wings, ex- clusive of the basement. The front and two circular ends facing Beacon street, and the open ground south of the building, are of Quincy granite, and surmounted by an entablature, supported by antes at each extrem- ity. The portico, which is of the same material, is 37 feet long by 7 feet in width, and 25 feet high. Four fluted columns support the roof of the portico, the pro- portions of which are copied from those of the Doric portico at Athens, with the exception that the portico 362 BOSTON. of the Tremont House is di-triglyph, the inter columni'' ations being nearly equal. The whole number of rooms is one hundred and eighty ; and the principal entrance is nearly opposite the Tremont theatre. From the look- out above the roof of this structure, an extensive and beautiful landscape, comprising a view of the harbor and the amphitheatre of hills to the west, and of the towns of Charlestown and Chelsea to the north, pre- sents itself. The other principal public houses are the Exchange Coffee House, an excellent establishment, Marlboro' Hotel, Earl's Coffee House, Commercial Coffee House, City Tavern, Merchant's Hotel, Indian Queen Tavern and La Fayette Hotel. The Hancock House, the former residence of Gov. Hancock, is still in good preservation in Beacon street, near the state house. There are also several ancient buildings in the vicinity of Ann street and Market square ; in one of which, opposite the Golden Key, a relative of Doct. Franklin formerly resided, to whom he was in the habit of paying frequent visits. The population of Boston in 1742 was 16,528; it is now not much short of 80,000. The number of stage coaches which regularly leave Boston, is much larger than that of any other place in the Union. There are between eighty and ninety dis- tinct lines of stages ; which, according to their estab- lished arrangements, not including extras, make about 125 departures and as many arrivals daily, or more than 1500 departures and arrivals each week. For the benefit of public houses and travellers, a Stage Regis- ter is published, once in two months, by Messrs. Badg- Q.UINCY. 365 er and Porter, 81 Court street, containing an account of the principal lines of stages, steam boats and canal packets in New England and New York. The country around Boston is the admiration of ev- ery traveller of taste. The view from the dome of the state house surpasses any thing of the kind in this country, and is not excelled by that from the castle hill of Edinburgh, or that of the Bay of Naples from the castle of St. Elmo. Here may be seen at one view, the shipping, the harbor, variegated with islands and alive with business ; Charles river and its beautiful country, ornamented with elegant private mansions ; and more than twenty flourishing towns. The hills are finely cultivated, and rounded by the hand of na- ture with singular felicity. QuiNCT is 10 miles from Boston, in a southerly direc- tion. About half a mile northwest of the village is the mansion of the late John Adams, the second president of the U. States. His remains and those of his wife repose beneath the new church at Quincy, within which a handsome monument to their memory has been erected by the late President, John Quincy Adams, with a suitable inscription. The southwest part of the town is mostly composed of inexhaustible beds of granite, for the transportation of which a rail-way has been constructed from the beds to tide water, 3 miles long. For a great part of the distance it is on an inclination of one and a half inch to the rod, and the ordinary load drawn by a horse is between S and 9 tons. It will be found an ob- ject worthy the attention of strangers. 364 DORCHESTER — CHaRLESTOWN. Dorchester, is an ancient town, about 4 1-2 miles south of Boston, having been settled in 1630. The roads are numerous and crooked, but mostly level and kept in good repair. Many fine country seats and sub- stantial farm houses are thickly arranged on their sides. They have a town house, three congregational churches, and one for methodists. The population is about 4000. The peninsula, called Dorchester Neck, borders on Bos- ton harbor, and a part of it is incorporated with the town of Boston. Sarin Hill, in this town, is a place of considerable resort, and the peninsula of Squantum is famous for its yearly feast of shells. Brighton, 5 miles west of Boston, was formerly a part of Cambridge, and lies between that place and Brookline. Here is held the famous Cattle Fair, which was commenced during the revolutionary war, and has been increasing in importance ever since. Most of the cattle for the supply of the Boston market are b'Vought in droves to this place'-; often from 2 to 8000 a week ; every Monday is the fair day, when the dealers resort thither to make their purchases. Watertown is on Charles river, 7 miles northwest from Boston, and is the seat of several extensive man- ufacturing establishments. The United States have an Arsenal established in this town. Fresh Ponds, one of the most enchanting retreats in the vicinity of the me- tropolis, lies partly in this town and partly in Cam- bridge. Cambridge, 2 miles west of Boston. {See p. 328.) Charlestown, is a place of singular shape, extend- ing in a northwesterly direction from Boston harbor, URSULIKE CONVENT. 365 about 9 miles in length, and not averaging a breadth of one mile, and in some parts it is not a quarter of a mile wide. The compact part of the town is situated on a peninsula next to Boston and is laid out in regular streets. Charlestown contains a population of near 7000. It has five houses of public worship, a spacious alms house, and a handsome market house. Besides Charles River and Prison Point bridges which connect this town with Boston, there is Chelsea bridge on the Salem turnpike, and Maiden bridge, both over the Mys- tick river. Breed's Hill and Bunker's Hill both lie within this peninsula ; the former is 62 feet in height, the latter 110 feet. The U. S. Navy Yard, in this town, consists of about 60 acres of land, on which are built a large brick ware house, several arsenals, magazines for various kinds of stores, and a large brick mansion house for the superintending officer. The State Prison is at the west end of the town, and is built of granite, 200 feet by 44, of 5 stories. Extensive additions to the buildings were made in 1827. The Massachusetts In- sane Hospital is delightfully situated upon Pleasant Hill, on the west side of the town. The Ursuline Convent, is on Mount Benedict, about 2 1-2 miles from Boston', commanding one of the most rich and variegated prospects in the United States. The plan of education pursued here is very extensive, embracing all those attainments which are considered necessary, useful or ornamental in society. Adjoining the establishment, is a garden beautifully laid out, to which the young ladies always have access. Besides this, they are allowed, on days of recreation, to extend their walks over the whole farm, attended however by one or more of their instructors. 366 breed's hill. Breed's Hill is situated one fourth of a mile north- east of Charlestown, and affords a pleasant prospect of Boston, (3 miles distant,) the harbor, Cambridge and its colleges, and of an extensive tract of highly culti- vated country. In the month of May, after the battle of Lexington, it was conjectured from the movements of the British army that Gen. Gage intended to penetrate into the country. It was accordingly decided by the provincial congress to attempt a defence of Dorchester Neck, and to occupy Bunker's Hill, just within the peninsula on which Charlestown stands. A detachment of 1000 men, under Col. Prescot, proceeded to execute these orders, but by some mistake. Breed's Hill, situated on the farther part of the peninsula, was selected for the proposed entrenchments. The party under Col. Prescot proceeded in their work with so much diligence and secrecy, that by the dawn of day, they had thrown up a square redoubt of about 40 yards on each side. Day-light discovered this new work to the British, and a heavy cannonade was commenced upon it from the shipping in the river. The fire was borne with firmness by the Americans, and did not prevent them from soon constructing a breast work, which extended from the redoubt to the bottom of the hill. " As this eminence overlooked Boston, Gen. Gage thought it necessary to drive the provincials from it. To effect this object, he detached Major General Howe, and Brigadier General Pigot, at the head often compa- nies of grenadiers, and the same number of light in- fantry, with a proper proportion of field artillery. breed's hill. 367 These troops landed at Moreton's Point, where they immediately formed ; but perceiving the Americans to wait for them with firmness, they remained on their ground until the success of the enterprize should be rendered secure by the arrival of a reinforcement from Boston, for which General Howe had applied. During this interval the Americans also were rein- ^~^orced by a body of their countrymen led by Generals Warren and Pomeroy ; and they availed themselves of this delay, to increase their security by pulling up some adjoining post and rail fences, and arranging them in two parallel lines at a small distance from each other ; the space between which they filled up with hay, so as to form a complete cover from the musketry of the en- emy. • " On being joined by their second detachment, the British troops, who were formed in two lines, advanced slowly under cover of a very heavy discharge of cannon and howitzers, frequently halting in order to allow their artillery time to demolish the works. While they were advancing, orders were given to set fire to Charlestown, a handsome village containing about 500 houses which flanked their line of march. The build- ings were chiefly of wood, and the flames were quick- ly communicated so extensively, that almost the whole town was in one great blaze. " It is not easy to conceive a more grand and a more awful spectacle than was now exhibited ; nor a mo- ment of more anxious expectation than that which was now presented. The scene of action was in full view of the heights of Boston and of its neighborhood, which were covered with spectators taking deep and opposite 66 368 breed's hjll. interests in the events passing before them. The sol- diers of the two hostile armies not on duty, the citizens of Boston, and the inhabitants of the adjacent country, all feeling emotions which set description at defiance, were witnesses of the majestic and tremendous scene. " The provincials permitted the enemy to approach unmolested within less than one hundred yards of their works, when they poured in upon them so deadly a fire of small arms that the British line was totally broken, and fell back with precipitation towards the landing place. By the very great exertions of their officers they were rallied, and brought up to the charge, but were again driven back in confusion by the heavy and incessant fire from the works. General Howe is said to have been left at one time almost alone, and it is certain that very few officers about bis person escaped unhurt. " The impression to be made by victory or defeat, in this early stage of the war, was deemed of the ut- most consequence ; and therefore very extraordinary exertions were made once more to rally the English. With great difficulty, they were a third time led up to the works. The redoubt was now attacked on three sides at once, while some pieces of artillery, which had been brought to bear on the breast work, raked it from end to end. The cross fire too, from the ships and floating batteries, not only annoyed the works on Breed's hill, but deterred any considerable reinforce- ments from passing into the peninsula, and coming to their assistance. The ammunition of the Americans was now so nearly exhausted, that they were no longer able to keep up the same incessant stream of fire, BUNKERHILL HILL MONUMENT. 369 which had twice repulsed the enemy ; and on this third attempt, the redoubt, the walls of which the English mounted with ease, was carried at the point of the bayonet. Yet the Americans, many of whom were without bayonets, are said to have maintained the contest with clubbed muskets, until the redoubt was half filled with the king's troops. "The redoubt being lost, the breast work which had been defended with equal courage and obstinacy, was necessarily abandoned ; and the very hazardous opera- tion undertaken, of retreating, in the face of a victori- ous enemy, over Charlestown neck ; where they were exposed to the same cross fire from the Glasgow man of war and two floating batteries, which had deterred the reinforcements ordered to their aid from coming to their assistance, and had probably prevented their re- ceiving proper supplies of ammunition." The number of British troops engaged in this action was about 3000, and their loss in killed and wounded was 1050. The American force has been variously stated, from 1500 to 4000 ; and their loss, in killed, wounded and missing, amounted to 450. General Warren was among the number of the slain, and a handsome monument now marks the spot where he fell. The spot of ground on which this monument stands, was recently purchased by Dr. J. C. Warren, of Boston, a nephew of the lamented General, for the purpose, it is said, of preserving uninjured the few re- maining traces of the memorable battle of '75. The corner stone of the Bunker Hill Monument now erecting on Breed's Hill, was laid on the 15th of Juno, 1825 : on which occasion the Marquis La Fay- 370 NAUANT. ette was present. The depth, however, proving insuf- ficient, the foundation was subsequently re-laid ; and though the work has progressed slowly, owing to a want of funds, it is believed the whole will be com- pleted within one or two years. The Quincy granite is used for its structure. Its base is 50 feet m diame- ter, and its height is to be 220 feet. Fort Independence, is situated on an island at the outlet of Boston harbor, 3 miles distant ; opposite to which is Governor's Island, containing a fort erected during the late war. These two forts command the entrance into the harbor of Boston. Seven or eight miles below the light house, at the north-east extrem- ity of the channel, where vessels enter the Atlantic. NAHANT, Is a peninsula running three or four miles into the sea, and is situated fifteen miles north-easterly from Boston. It is approached from the town of Lynn over a beautiful beach of a mile and a half in length. At the extremity of this beach, commences the peninsula, which is about two miles in length, and in some parts half a mile broad, although its shores are extremely ir- regular, and indented with small bays worn into the rocks by the unceasing action of the waves. The surface is uneven, rising in some places to the elevation of sixty or seventy feet above the level of the sea. The shore is very bold, and presents on all sides, a grand embankment of broken massy rocks. At several points these rocks are worn into fantastic shapes, and at the time of high tide, or a swell of the sea, the roar and foam of the waters among themj pre- NAHANT. 37 i aents a most interesting spectacle, which is contempla- ted by the quiet observer, seated on the summit a- bove, with awe and admiration. The whole expanse of the ocean spreads out towards the east, and after a storm, the rolling waves come pouring in their im- mense burden upon these rocks, with such a power, sublimity and uproar of contending elements, as can hardly be conceived by any one who has not witnessed the scene. And again when the sea is tranquil, it may be seen covered with shipping of all sizes, as far as the eye can extend, moving in different directions up and down the coast, and exhibiting an animating picture of the industry and activity of commerce. In short, for picturesque beauty and sublimity of scenery, as well as for the many advantages arising from its peculiar local situation, this place is not surpassed by any on the coast. Besides a view of the ocean, Nahant presents a great variety of other interesting prospects. On one side is seen the village of Lynn, Swanscut, Phillips' Beach, Marblehead, Egg Rock, Baker's Island, and the north shore as far as the highland of Cape Ann ; on the other, Charlestown, Boston the islands in Bos- ton harbor, part of Dorchester, Braintree, Nantucket and Sciiuate, with the light-houses of Boston, Scituate and Baker's Island, forming together a panorama hard- ly to be equalled in beauty or variety. The peninsula extends farther into the sea than any other head land in the bay. It is distant from the nearest island in Boston harbor, to the south, seven miles — from the nearest point of the south shore, about twelve miles — from the north shore between two and gg2 SI 2 NAHANT. three miles. It is on this side connected wth the main land by a beach a few rods wide. Thus insulat- ed and surrounded by water, Nahant enjoys a cUmate and temperature very cool, and, comparatively, very equable — a circumstance of much importance to the invalid, and which will detemiine the choice of a great portion of those who annually leave the city for the purpose of health or amusement. Accommodations for visitors have lately been multi- plied and greatly improved. A spacious and elegant stone edifice has been erected as a Hotel, near the ex- tremity of the peninsula, in a very commanding and pleasant situation. This building contains 70 cham- bers, constructed on a plan of pecuUar convenience, both for famihes and single persons. The dining hall is sufficiently spacious to accommodate 150 persons at table, besides which there are drawing rooms and pri- vate parlors. Large and commodious stables are ap- pended to the Hotel ; and a bathing house for warm and cold baths, and floating baths for those who may prefer the bracing action of sea water, make a part of the establishment. The Hotel is surrounded by piaz- zas, which afford a most delightful prospect in every direction, and receive the cool and refreshing breezes every part of the day. In a small village, a quarter of a mile from the Hotel, are several private boarding hous- es, where every accommodation can be had for invalids and for those who seek retirement. Numerous cot- tages, too, have been erected by several individuals for the purpose of affording more extensive and ele- gant accommodations to those who may pass the sum- mer in this delightful place of residence. FORTS AROUND BOSTON. 373 Nahant has many amusements. Angling with the rod may be enjoyed as a pleasant recreation, standing on the rocks ; and those who would try their skill in decoying larger prey, may go out in boats, which are always in readiness, and furnished with suitable appara- tus. Game, too, is abundant in the vicinity. But there are few amusements or pleasures superior to that of riding, at suitable hours of the day, on the beach. A beautiful building, in imitation of a Grecian temple, has been erected on an eminence, near the Hotel, in which are two elegant billiard rooms. There are also convenient covered bowling alleys, and such other means of amusement as are usually connected with the most extensive and elegant estabUshments at watering places. On the whole, the proximity of Nahant to Boston — its facility of access — the beauty and grandeur of its scenery — and above all, the singular local advantages it affords for invigorating the constitution, the salubrity and bracing tone of its atmosphere, and the excellent accommodations it offers to visitors — will undoubtedly make it a place of general resort during the summer months, from all parts of the United States. FORTS AROUND BOSTON, Erected during the revolution. The fortifications which were thrown up around Bos- ton, which held a British army besieged during eleven months of the revolution, and which finally compelled them to carry their arms and warfare into other lands, will always be regarded as objects of interest by every stranger visiting that section of .country. Many of 374 PORTS AHOUND BOSTON. these works are still in fine preservation, while others have become defaced by the hand of time, or have beea removed to give place to modern improvements. The following description of those remaining is extracted from Silliman's Journal, and will prove a guide to stran- gers in determining their localities : Jit Breed's Hill, that blood-stained field, the redoubt thrown up by the Americans is nearly effaced ; scarce- ly the slightest trace of it remains ; but the entrench- ment, which extended from the redoubt to the marsh, is still marked by a slight elevation of the ground. The redoubt thrown up by the British on the summit of the hill, may be easily distinguished. Bunker Hill. The remains of the British fort are visible, the works must have been very strong, and oc- cupied a large extent of ground — they are on the sum- mit and slope of the hill looking towards the peninsula. Ploughed Hill. The works upon this hill were com- menced by the Americans on the night of August 26th, 1775, and received more fire from the British than any of the other forts ; in a few days more than three hun- dred shells were fired at these fortifications. A small part of the rampart remains, but the whole loill is sur- rounded by the mounds and fosse of the ancient fort, which has been nearly obliterated. Cobble or BarreWs Hill was fortified, and occupied as a strong post, in the war of the revolution, by General Putnam, and, in consequence of its strength, was call- ed Putnam's impregnable fortress. It was commenced on the night of November 22d ; and the activity of its fire is well known to those who have studied the de- tails of the siege of Boston. This fort has been de-. stroyed ; but the position is easily identified. FORTS AROUND BOSTON. 375 Lechmere Point Redoubt, one hundred yards from West Boston bridge, displays more science in its con- struction, and has a wider and deeper fosse than most of the other fortifications. It was commenced on Dec. 11th, 1775, and it was several days before it was com- pleted, during which time it was much exposed to the fire of the Engligh in Boston, Two or three soldiers of the revolutionary army were killed at this redoubt, and the Prunus virginiana, with its red berries, marks the spot where they were probably interred. Upon one angle of the fort where the cannon were pointed with most destructive effect, a church is now erected. A causeway made across the marsh, the covered way which crosses the brow of the hill, and the lines which flanked Willis' Creek, are still perfect, and may be traced with great facility. Winter Hill Fort appears to have been the most ex- tensive, and the entrenchments more numerous, than any of the other positions of the American army. The fort on the hill is almost entirely destroyed; only a small part of the rampart still remains perfect. A redoubt situated upon Ten Hill Farm, which com- manded the navigation of the Mystic river, is complete, as are also some slight entrenchments near. A redoubt, situated between Winter and Prospect Hill, has been completely carried away, and a quarry has been opened on the spot. In the general orders, issued at Cambridge, guards were directed to be sta- tioned at White House Redoubt, and this it is beheved was the post intended. General Lee is said to have had his head quarters in a farm house immediately in the rear of this redoubt. 376 FORTS AROUND BOSTON. Prospect Hill has two eminences, both of which were strongly fortified, and connected by a rampart and fosse ; about two hundred yards are quite entire ; they are ornamented with the aster, sohdago, rosa, &c. ; and those who feel any curiosity about these lines, will be much gratified by the view here afforded. The forts on these hills were destroyed only a few years ago, but their size can be distinctly seen. On the southern em- inence a part of the fort is still entire, and the south- west face of the hill is divided into several platforms. There are also evident marks of the dwellings of the soldiers. The extensive view from this hill, the walk on the ancient ramparts, and the sight of the various stations occupied by the American army will render this spot, at a future period, a favorite resort. The Cambridge Lines, situated upon Butler's, Hill ap- pear to have consisted of six regular forts, connected by a strong entrenchment. The most northerly of these forts is perfect. With the exception of one of its angles destroyed by the road, it appears as if just quit- ted by the army of America ; its bastions are entire, the outline is perfect, and it seems a chef 5'oeuvre of the military art. A square fort may be seen near the southern extrem- ity of these lines, in fine preservation ; it is in a field within two hundred yards of the road to Cambridge. The eastern rampart is lower than the others, and the gateway with its bank of earth still remains. The second Line of Defence may be traced on the col- lege green at Cambridge, but its proximity to the pub- lic halls may have produced some inconvenience, and it has been carefully destroyed. FORTS AROUND BOSTON. 377 ^ semicircular battery, with three embrasures, on the northern shore of Charles river, near its entrance into the bay, is in a perfect state of preservation. It is rath- er above the level of the marsh, and those who would wish to see it, should pass on the road to Cambridge until they arrive at a cross road which leads to the bank of the river ; by following the course of the stream, they may arrive at this battery without cross- ing the marsh, which is its northern boundary and dif- ficult to pass. Brookline Fort, or, as it is called in the annals of the revolution, the fort on Sewall's Point, was very exten- sive, and would be still perfect, were it not for the road which divides it into two nearly equal parts. With this exception, the ramparts and an irregular bastion, which commanded the entrance of Charles river, are entire. The fort was nearly quadrangular, and the fortifications stronger than many of the other positions of the Ame- rican army. •^ Baiterxj, on the southern shore of Muddy river, with three embrasures, is only slightly injured. Forts at Roxbury. The lower fort at Roxbury ap- pears to have been the earliest erected, and by its ele- vation commanded the avenue to Boston over the pe- ninsula, and prevented the advance of the English troops in that direction. It is of the most irregular form, the interior occupies about two acres of ground, and as the hill is bare of soil, the places may still be seen whence the earth was taken to form the ramparts. This fortification has not been at all injured, and the embrasures may still be noticed where the cannon were placed which fired upon the advanced lines of the enemy. 378 PORTS AROUND BOSTON. On a higher eminence of the same hill is situated a quadrangular fort, built on the summit of the rock, and being perhaps their first attempt at regular fortifica- tion, it was considered by the militia of unparalleled strength, and excited great confidence in that wing of the army stationed at Roxbury, The Roxbury lines, about three quarters of a mile in advance of the forts, and two hundred yards north of the town, are still to be seen on the eastern side of the peninsula, and may be distinguished by any person go- ing by the nearest road to Dorchester, over Lamb's dam. At this period it may be proper to mention the British fortifications. The lines situated upon the Neck may be seen to great advantage on the western side of the isthmus, about a quarter of a mile south of the green stores. There appear to have been two lines of en- trenchments carried quite across the peninsula, and the fosse, which was filled at high water, converted Boston into an island. The mounds, ramparts and wide ditches which remain, attest the strength of the original works. The small battery on the common, erected by the British, may perhaps remain for a long period of years, as a memorial of ancient times. The Dorchester Lines. Of these, some very slight traces may be distinguished. F(yrts on Dorchester Heights. We now hasten to the last forts, the erection of which terminated the contest in this portion of the eastern states of America. It is to be regretted that the entrenchments thrown up by the army of the revolution, on the heights of Dorches- ter, are almost entirely obliterated by the erection of two now forts in the late war. But some traces of the I PROM BOSTON TO PORTLAND. 379 ancient works may be seen on both hills ; the old forts were constructed with more skill, and display more science than the recent works, the ramparts of which are even now falling down ; and we would gladly see them destroyed if from their ruins the ancient works could re-appear. A noble octagonal fort and two batteries, which may be seen in perfect preservation upon the prom- ontory, were erected after the departure of the Eng- lish from Boston. The fort is situated at the point ; one battery is in the rear of the House of Industry, whose inmates will probably soon destroy it, and the other upon a rising ground immediately below the heights of Dorchester. At J^ook Hill, near South Boston bridge, maybe seen the last breast- work which was thrown up by the for- ces of America during this arduous contest. Its ap- pearance on the morning of March 17, 1776, induced the departure of the British troops from Boston in a few hours, and thus placed the seal to the independence of the New-England states. But those who would wish to see this entrenchment must visit it soon. The enemy have attacked it on three sides, and are proceeding by sap and by mine ; part of the fosse is already destroyed, and the rampart nods to its fall. FROM BOSTON TO PORTLAND, (Maine.) A stage leaves Boston daily at 8 A. M. (Sundays ex- cepted,) reaching Newbury port at 1 P. M. and Ports- mouth, N. H. at 5. Leaves Portsmouth the next morn- ing at 8, and reaches Portland at 5 P. M. Distance, HH S30 LYNN — SALEM. 120 miles — fare %Q. The intervening distances arc as follows : Miles. Lynn,* 9 Salem,* 5 Newburyport, 24 Portsmouth, 24 Miles. York, 9 Kennebunk, 24 Saco, 10 Portland, 15 Lynn is a large township, with a population of be- tween 4 and 5000. It contains 6 churches, and many large manufacturing establishments for ladies' shoes, which are sent to the southern states and the West In- dies. The Lynn beach connects the peninsula of Na- hant with the main land. This is one of the oldest towns in New-England, and several records of its early history have been recently collected and published in Boston. The author has giv- en a mass of interesting facts and occurrences of "olden time," furnishing altogether a curious compendium, not only to antiquarians and the immediate descend- ants of the first settlers of that place, but to readers of every class and section of the country. All the quaint- ness and original simplicity of the original language has been preserved, and such remarks of the compiler introduced as are necessary to explain the meaning or increase the interest. Salem is considered the second town in New-Eng- land in commerce, w^ealth and population. It is located on a peninsula formed by two inlets of the sea, called North and South rivers. On the opposite side of North * These places are not on the direct route from Bos- ton to Newburyport ; but it is, nevertheless, recommend- ed to travellers to pass through them. NEWBURYPORT — PORTSMOUTH. 381 river is the town of Beverly, to which a bridge leads, 1500 feet in length. Marblehead is on the opposite side of South river, which forms the harbor, defended by two forts. Salem contains a court house, S banks, an atheneum, a museum, an orphan asylum and 17 churches. The Square, near the centre of the town, is a beautiful tract of ground ; and is surrounded by nu- merous elegant private dwellings. Salem was settled as early as 1626. Its Indian name was Naumkeag. In 1692, and for some time after- wards, several of its inhabitants became a prey to the greatest credulity and bigotry. Its prison was crowd- ed with persons accused of witchcraft, many of whom paid their life as a forfeit for their supposed crimes. The present population of the town is from 12 to 15,000. Newburyport is handsomely situated on the south bank of the Merrimack river, three miles from its mouth, rising on a gradual acclivity from the water. The streets are wide, and intersect each other at right angles ; and many of the houses are elegant. The court-house, standing at the head of one of the principal streets lead- ing from the river, adds much to the beauty of the place. The village contains 2 banks, 7 churches and 7,000 inhabitants, and is a place of considerable trade ; though it suffered much during the restrictive system, previous to the last war. Portsmouth is the largest town and only seaport in New-Hampshire. It is located on the south side of the Piscataqua river, 2 miles from its mouth. The town contains 5 banks, an atheneum, an asylum for females, an alms-house, custom-house and 7 churches. A bridge, 2371 feet long, crosses the river at this place 0»2 PORTLAND. to Kittery, Me. on the opposite side. On an island be- tween the two places is a navy yard. The town is handsome in its appearance, is a place of considerable trade, and contains a population of about 8000. In 1695, this place was assaulted by a party of In- dians, and 14 of its inhabitants killed, one scalped, who recovered, and four taken prisoners. After burning several houses, the Indians retreated through what is called the great sioamp. They were, however, overta- ken the next morning by a company of mihtia, dispers- ed, and the prisoners retaken. After leaving Portsmouth, the villages of York, Wel- les, Kennebunk and Saco, are successively passed, be- fore reaching Portland ; affording very little to interest, if we except an old fort about 3 miles and a half north east of Welles, and the falls at Saco, on the river of that name, which rises in the White Mountains of New- Hampshire. These falls are about 30 feet, and afford facilities for extensive manufacturing operations. Portland, the capital of Maine, and a port of entry, is a beautiful town, located on a peninsula projecting into Casco bay. This peninsula has two prominences ; on one of which stands several elegant dwelling houses, and on the other an observatory. The harbor is safe, well defended, and has a light-house at its entrance. Among the public buildings in the town are an elegant court-house, a jail, custom-house, 2 banks, an academy, atheneum and 10 churches. Population, upwards of 9,000. From the observatory, an extensive prospect is had of the ocean and of the country at the north-west, terminated by the White Mountains, On Bang's and House Islands, at the entrance of the harbor, are Forts FROM PORTLAND TO ttUKBEC. 885 Preble and Scammel. At the east, 82 miles distant, is seen the light-house at the mouth of the Kennebec riv- er, with a great variety of islands intervening. West of the observatory is Fort Sumner, on a hill, with seve- ral intrenchments made during the revolutionary war. Portland (then called Falmouth) was nearly laid in ruins in Oct. 1775. The inhabitants were required by Capt. Mowatt, of the British sloop of war Canceau, to surrender their arms ; and on a refusal, he commenced a bombardment of the town, which lasted 9 hours, re- sulting in a destruction of 130 houses, three fourths of the whole number. Stages leave Portland three times a week for the White Mountains in New- Hampshire, {seep. 341,) pass- ing through Westbrook, Gorham, Standish, Baldwin, Hiram, Brownsfield and Fryeburgh to Conway, which they reach at evening. Distance 62 miles — fare $3. From Conway, a stage leaves on Monday and Thurs- day mornings, passing through Bartlett, Hart's Loca- tion, over the Avalanches at the Notch of the White Mountains, through Nash and Swain's Location, Brit- ton woods and Bethlehem to Littleton on the Connec- ticut river. Distance 48 miles — fare $3. [Littleton is 17 miles below Lancaster, 100 miles north of Con- cord, N. H. and is located at the mouth and falls of the Ammonoosuc river. See p. 334.] FROM PORTLAND TO QUEBEC— 258 miles. A new road is now forming from Portland to Quebec, principally over the route pursued by Gen. Arnold and his troops in 1775, previous to the assault of that place by Gen. Montgomery. The completion of this road will frequently induce strangers to take the state of hh2 334 NOUTH YARMOUTH BRUNSWICK. Maine, as well as Montreal, in their route to or from Quebec. The intermediate distances on this route are as fol- lows ; MUes. Bloomfield, 7 Norridgework, 5 Anson, 11 Dead River, 20 Forks of Kennebeck 15 River, 15 Moose River, 24 Chaudiere River, .... 37 Quebec, 60 Miles. From Portland to North Yarmouth, , 12 Freeport, 6 Brunswick, 9 Bowdointown, 13 Hallowell, 15 Augusta, 3 Sidney, 12 Waterville, 5 Fairfield, 4 North Yarmouth, 12 miles north of Portland, is lo- cated on Casco bay, about 35 miles from the ocean, and is a village of some magnitude, containing 4 churches, an academy and about 4000 inhabitants. The bay affords fine anchorage for vessels, and the sur- rounding country is picturesque and interesting. Freeport, 6 miles farther, is at the head of Casco bay, and contains a population of about 2500 inhabi- tants. Brunswick, 9 miles. The village, which is peculiar- ly pleasant, is situated on the southwest bank of the Androscoggin river, at the falls, which furnish val- uable seats for mills and manufactories. Bmodoin col- lege, at this place, is located on an elevated and beauti- ful plain, enjoying a rich and diversified view of the river and surrounding country. The college originally received a donation of $10,000 from the late James D. Bowdoin, Esq. and five townships of land from the state. It also receives $3,000 annually from the latter. HALLOWELL — WATERVILLE. 3S5 From 130 to 150 students are yearly educated at this institution. BowDOiNTOWN, 13 miles. Hallo WELL, 15 miles, is a very flourishing village, on the Kennebeck river, at the head of tide water. It con- tains an academy, a bank, three churches, between 2 and 300 dwelUng houses, some of which are very ele- gant, and about 3000 inhabitants. Granite is here ob- tained, which is considered equal to any ever discov- ered in the Union. Vessels of 150 tons burthen ascend the river as far this place. Augusta, 3 miles, is the seat of government of the state, and is located on both sides of the Kennebeck river, over which is a substantial bridge. A part of the village is on a very elevated plain above the river, and a part of it on its banks. Many of the dwellings ex- hibit much taste and elegance in their structure, and the whole appearance of the place is peculiarly inviting and pleasant. The new State House, now erecting here, will be an ornament to the town and highly creditable to the mu- nificence of the state. Sidney, 12 miles farther, is a pleasant village on the Kennebeck river. Waterville, 5 miles, on the same river, is a place of considerable magnitude, containing a bank. At Te- conick Falls in this town, at the head of boat naviga- tion, there are several manufactories, and a flourishing village is springing up. Watei'vUle college, under the direction of the Baptist denomination, is located in this town. It was commenced in iSlS, and educates be- ween 50 and 60 students annually for the ministry. 386 PROM PORTLAND TO EASTPORT. Bloomfield, U mileg. A pleasant village, contain- ing a respectable academy. NoRRiDGEWORK, 5 milcs, is situated on both banks of the Kennebeck river. It is the capital of Somerset county, and contains a court house and jail. The vil- lage is centrally located for the trade of a fertile back country, and is a flourishing place, containing a pop- ulation of about 2000 inhabitants. The route to Quebec continues through a less pop- ulous country for about 50 miles ; when, for the re- maining distance, it passes through extensive forests, with an occasional settlement only. These forests, however, are giving way to the arts of husbandry, and in a few years will doubtless be succeeded by a succes- sion of settlements and cultivated farms. FROM PORTLAND TO EASTPORT— 287 miles. The following are the intermediate distances : Miles. North Yarmouth, 12 Freeport, 6 Brunswick, 9 Bath, 7 Wiscasset, 15 Newcastle, 11 Waldoboro', 12 Warren, 8 Thomastown, ....... 5 Camden, 11 Lincolnville, 7 Belfast, 11 Buckstown, 18 Penobscot, 13 MUes. Castine, 4 Blue Hill, 10 Surry, 8 Trenton, 12 Sullivan, 9 Steuben, 14 Harrison, S Columbia, 12 Jonesboro', 9 Machias, 9 E. Falls of Machias, . . 6 Denneysville, 23 Eastport Ferry, 14 Eastport, , 4 The route is near the coast, and embraces an extent of highly interesting and romantic country. North- BATH — THOMASTOWN. 387 Yarmouth, Freeport and Brunswick have already been noticed. Bath, 34 miles northeast of Portland, is a port of en- try, on the west side of the Kennebeck river, 1 5 miles from its mouth. The river is here a mile wide, and the town is built on an acclivity for a mile and a half in ex- tent, and assumes a very handsome appearance from the water. It is a place of extensive business, and contains two banks, an academy, three churches, and a population of nearly 4000 inhabitants. WiscAssET, 15 miles, is a port of entry, located on the west side of Sheepscot river, with an excellant harbor. The place contains a court house, jail, bank, insurance office, and some other public buildings, and a population of about 2500. Newcastle, 11 miles, is located on the west side of Sheepscot river. Waldoboro', 12 miles, is a port of entry and a place of considerable trade, containing a population of about 3000 inhabitants. Warren, 8 miles, is located on St. George's river, which is navigable to this place for sloops. Thomastown, Smiles, is a place of extensive busi- ness, situated on the west side of Penobscot bay and on St. George's river, 12 miles from its mouth. The state prison of Maine is at this place, and is in a lot of 10 acres, enclosed by a solid wall, within which is an ex- tensive quarry of limestone. There are also in the vi- cinity of the town inexhaustible quarries of lime and marble, of which large quantities are annually exported. The village contains a bank and a population of about 388 CAMDEN — CASTIWE. 3000 inhabitants. About a mile from the village is the ancient residence of the late Gen. Knox, now in a state of decay. Camden, 11 miles, and Lincolnville, 7 miles far- ther, are both situated on the west side of the Penob- scot bay. Belfast, U miles from Linconville, is on the same side of the bay, and is a flourishing village. BucKSTOwN, 18 miles, is on the east side of the Penob- scot, the largest river in the state. It is navigable for large vessels to Bangor, 50 miles from its entrance in- to the bay. Penobscot, 13 miles, on the east side of the bay of that name. Castine, 4 miles, is situated on a promontory, near the head of the east side of Penobscot bay, with a beau- tiful harbor stretching out before the town. Castine can be easily defended from assault ; as the narrow- ness of the isthmus which connects it with the main land could be insulated with comparatively a small expense ; added to which, strong batteries would en- able it to resist any force which would probably be brought against it. This would be the more important in time of war, as an enemy in possession of the place, would have command of the intermediate country from Penobscot to St. Croix. The place was taken during the last war, and the British entrenchments on a hill above the town are still visible. Blue Hill, Surry, Trenton, Sullivan (in which there is a bridge across Hog bay 1400 feet long) Steuben, Har- rison, Columbia and Jonesborough arc successively passed in travelling from Castine to MACHIAS — ROBBINSTOWN. 389 Machias, a port of entry and capital of Washington county, Me. The town contains two village^ ; one sit- uated at the falls of the east branch of the Machias river, and the other at the falls of the west branch of the same stream. Between the two villages a bridge is erected across Middle river, which, with the causeway, is 1900 feet long. Machias contains a court house, jail, 2 churches, a very flourishing academy, and is a thriving place. Eastport, is a port of entry on Moose island in Pas- samaquoddy bay. The island is 4 miles long, with a bold shore, the tide ordinarily rising here 25 feet. The town is principally built on the southern part of the isl- and and contains a bank, 3 churches and about 2000 inhabitants. There are also fortifications in the vicini- ty, which were constructed during the last war. The view from the heights on the island is very extensive and romantic, taking in the bay with its numerous isl- ands and the adjacent coast. Between Eastport and the town of Perry on the main land, a bridge has been constructed, rising of }200 feet long. A line of steam boats is established bsjtween this place and Boston, touching at Portland, so that travellers can take either a water or land route to tliat city. RoBBiNSTOwN, 13 miles north-west of Eastport, lo- cated at the mouth of the St. Croix river at its entrance into the Passamaquoddy bay, is on the boundary line between the U. States and the British Province of New-Brunswick, and is opposite St. Andrews. S90 FROM BOSTON TO PROVIDENCE, R. I. STAGES FROM BOSTON TO NEW- YORK, via Hartford and J^eio-Haven^ Conn. A stage leaves Boston, daily, at 1 P. M. ; arrives in Hartford next morning at 6, in New-Haven at 2 P. M., and in New- York at 6, second morning — distance 210 miles, fare $11. This line meets a steam boat every day at New-Haven, except Sunday — fare through by stage and steam boat, $10,50. A stage also leaves Boston on Sunday and Wednesday, at 3 A. M. reaches New-London, Conn, at evening, where a steam boat is taken, which reaches New- York the next morning. Another stage leaves Boston and New-Haven daily, passing through Hartford, and reaching the two first mentioned places at evening of the second day — dis- tance 136 milfes, fare $7,50. Either of the foregoing routes can be taken by trav- ellers wishing to proceed directly to New- York; but where leisure will permit, an excursion by the way of Providence is recommended, on the route hereafter de- signated. It is more circuitous, but much more inter- esting; and will amply compensate the tourist for the additional time employed for the purpose. FROM BOSTON TO PROVIDENCE, R. I. 40 miles. A stage leaves Boston every morning at 3 o'clock, and connects with the steam boat line at Providence daily, except Sundays ; and with the steam boat line at New-London, Conn, on Wednesday and Sunday. Stages also leave Boston daily at 7 and 10 A. M., and at noon for Providence. Fare $1. The intermediate distances follow : DEDHAM — PAWTUCKET. 391 Miles. Roxbury, 2 Dedham, 8 Walpole, 10 Miles. Wrentham, 7 Pawtucket, 9 Providence, 4 In proceeding to Roxbury, the stage passes over what is called the Neck, a narrow strip of land, contain- ing intrenchments noticed at p. 377. On Dorchester Heights, {see p. 364 and^J. 378,) which are seen at the east, many of the works erected for commanding Bos- ton and its harbor, are in tolerable preservation. Passing the Blue Hills, 7 miles from Boston, which lafibrd a pleasant retreat in the summer months, and a charming prospect of the surrounding country, the vil- lage of Dedham is reached in going three miles farther. It is a large and beautiful town, containing a court house, jail, bank, 6 churches, and between 2 and 3000 inhabi- tants. Charles and Neponset rivers run through the place, and afford numerous seats for mills and manu- facturing establishments. Walpole 10, and Wrentham 17 miles from Dedham, are small villages. Pawtucket, 9 miles from Wrentham, is located at the falls of the Pawtucket river ; and is one of the most extensive manufacturing places in the union. It con- tains 10 or 12 cotton factories, several shops for making machinery, and a number of factories for other purpo- ses. Four miles farther, over a most delightful road, is the handsome and flomishing town of I 1 ^92 PROVIDENCE. PROVIDENCE. The settlement of this place was commenced as ear- ly as 1636, by Roger Williams. He was a puritan min- ister, and had been settled at Salem ; but holding tenets contrary to the faith of many of his people, he was banished the jurisdiction of Massachusetts. He came to what was called by the Indians JMooshausick ; but which, in gratitude for the providential safety he had experienced, he called Providence. It is located on the river of the same name, just above the mouth of the Seekhonk or Pawtucket, 35 miles from the ocean, and is a port of entry. The town is built on both sides of the river, across which is an elegant bridge ; and is one of the most wealthy and enterprizing places in the union. Besides a great variety of extensive manufac- turing establishments, it contains a court house, town house,* market, hospital, 7 banks, a college, 3 acade- mies, and several churches; and its population is not far from 17,000. Brown University, at this place, over which the Rev. Francis Watland, jun. presides, was incorporat- ed in 1769. It soon rose to a respectable rank among the literary institutions of the country ; but afterwards declined. Under its present able and judicious Presi- dent, however, it has attained a handsome elevation, and promises to become one of the best seats of learn- ing in the union. The library has lately been much in- creased by donations from England j and the philo- sophical apparatus, which is extensi^p* is constantly improving. The college edifices, of which there are two, are located on a lofty eminence, with streets BLACKSTONE CANAL. 393 leading thereto, richly decorated with fine mansions and elegant gardens. About a mile still farther east or north-east, stands a large building, called the Quaker College. It was built by the Friends, and is occupied as a boarding school of that persuasion, and is in excel- lent order. Near this, of corresponding dimensions and appearance, stands the new Alms House. A legacy of 60,000 dollars, has enabled the town to erect this no- ble structure. »* The town abounds with the most delightful private residences. The new town, on the west side of the river, has more the appearance of a flourishing com- mercial city than the old. It also contains many spa- cious dwellings which impart to it an air of prosperity. The Hill, or East Providence, as it is called, is occupi- ed by gentlemen's private mansions, or country seats, all advantageously located, with fine court yards in front, thickly planted with shrubbery, while highly cultivated and beautiful gardens adorn the rear, and add immeasurably to their comforts. The charming residences of Messrs. Brown, Ives, and Governor Fenner are entitled to particular notice. It was on the present domains of Governor Fenner, that Roger Williams fii"st planted himself, and it has so happened, that from that day to this, that situation has belonged to a governor of Rhode Island. The Blackstone Canal tern"»inates at this place. It commences in the Blackstone river at Worcester, 45 miles distant, and pursues the valley of the river to Woonsokett falls near the Massachusetts Une ; from whence there is an excavation to Providence. Steam Boats leave Providence six times a week for J^ew- York— fare ^6. 394 FROM PROVIDENCE TO NEWPORT. Stages, also, leave Providence three times a week for Norwich and Middletown, and daily (except Sun- days) for Hartford, Conn, arriving at those places at evening. Fare to Norwich, 45 miles, $3 — to Middle- town $4— to Hartford, 74 miles, $4. A stage also leaves Providence twice a week for New-London, Conn, distant 59 miles, connected with a steam boat line for New- York. FROM PROVIDENCE TO NEWPORT. Stages leave Providence daily, except Sundays, at 9 A. M. reaching Bristol at 11, and Newport at 4 P. M. Fare from Providence to Bristol, 15 miles, $1 — from Providence to Newport, 30 miles, $2,33. Bristol is a pleasant town, with a population of about 1500 inhabitants. The village is located on the east shore of^the Narraganset bay, affording an excel- lent harbor for vessels of the largest dimensions. About 2 miles from the feriy in this town an exten- sive mine of anthracite coal was opened a few years since, from which very considerable quantities are an- nually taken. Newport is a large town, with an extensive harbor which is defended by Forts Adams and Dumplings at its entrance, and by Fort Woolcott on Goat Island, op- posite the town. There is also a small battery about a mile above the town, called Fort Green. The village is about a mile in length, and rises in a gentle acclivity from the harbor, giving to it a fine appearance, when approached from the water. It contains a state-house, theatre, five banks, 11 churches, several manufactories, and a population of about 8,000, NEWPORT. 395 Newport was possessed by the British for a consider- able time during the revolutionary war. In 1778, un- der an expectation of aid from the French fleet, which had sailed into the harbor, an American force, of about 10,000 strong, commanded by Gen. Sullivan, and aided by Gen. La Fayette, made preparations for attacking the place. On the approach of the Americans, the British abandoned their outposts and retreated to their works within the town. These posts were immediate- ly possessed by the Americans ; and the most flatter- ing prospects existed, that the allied forces would be enabled to capture the entire British army. But the French admiral, who had been a military officer, and who, by a previous arrangement, was to superintend a part of the land as well as naval operations, took of- fence at some of the movements of Gen. Sullivan, and refused a co-operation. While an attempt at reconcil- iation was going forward, a British fleet suddenly ap- peared off" Newport, which induced the French admiral, as a precautionary measure, to sail out of the harbor. A severe storm coming on, prevented a naval engage- ment ; and both fleets, being left in a shattered condi- tion, at the close of the tempest, retired — the British to New- York, and the French to Newport. During this lime, Gen. Sullivan had laid siege to the town ; and though interrupted by the storm, in which his army suffered considerably, he had succeeded in annoying the enemy, and keeping him within the lines of the village. On the return of the French fleet, another effort was made to induce the admiral to co-operate with the Americans. But his ships had received so much injury in the gale, that he considered it necessary to repair to ii2 396 NEWPORT. Boston, pursuant to previous instructions from his gov- ernment. Under these circumstances, SulUvan de- termined on raising the siege. A retreat was effected in the night. But on its being discovered the next morning, the Americans were pursued by the British to Quaker Hill, where a sharp contest eusued, which resulted in the loss of between 2 and 300 of each army. Sullivan afterwards retreated to Massachusetts, with little or no interruption ; and his retreat was consider- ed fortunate, as a B ritish re-inforcement, which arrived at Newport the day after, would have been enabled ef- fectually to cut him off from the main land. During the possession of Newport by the British, a bold party of men under Col. Barton, landed from a boat in the night, proceeded to the enemy's head quar- ters, captured Gen Prescott, and conveyed him away before they could be prevented by the land or naval forces then in the harbor. From its elegant and healthy situation, its proximity to the ocean, and the salubrity of its climate, Newport, for several years, has been a place of considerable re- sort in the summer months. Were there a direct com- munication from this place, by stage, or steam-boat, to New-London, Hartford or New-Haven, Conn, it would add much to the convenience of tourists. But, unfor- tunately, for this purpose, the steam-boats which leave Providence and Newport five or six times a week for New- York, do not touch at any of the Connecticut ports ; and, in order to reach New-London by stage, it is necessary to return to Providence. Those who have travelled down by land, generally return by water. KING PHILir. S97 Passing Fort Green, a prospect is soon obtained of Mount Hope, a few miles to the northwest. It was the former residence of Kitig Philip, of the Narraganset tribe of Indians, and was also the place of his death. The well known energy and enterprise of his character made him an object of great jealousy and apprehension, and he was accused of always cherishing a secret and implacable hostility towards the English. A ren- egado Indian subject had heightened this jealousy, by reveahng to the whites the pretended hostile projects of Philip. This informer was shortly afterwards found murdered in a pond, having fallen a victim to the ven- geance of his tribe. Three Indians, one of whom was a friend and counsellor of Philip, were seized by the whites tried, and on rather slight testimony executed. This out- raged the pride and exasperated the passions of Philip, and a long and bloody war was the consequence. The whites, possessing more military skill, were generally victorious, and Philip was driven from his paternal do- mains and compelled to take refuge in the depths of for- ests or the glooms and thickets of swamps. At one time he was driven, with a band of followers, into the great swamp of Pocasset Neck, where the English forces did not dare to pursue him, fearing to venture into these dark and frightful recesses. They therefore invested the entrance into the neck, and began to build a fort, with the intention of starving out the foe ; but Philip and his companions, leaving their women and children behind, wafted themselves on a raft over an arm of the sea, in the dead of night, and escaped away to the westward, kindling the flames of war among the tribes 398 KING PHILIP. of Massachusetts and the Nipmuck country, and threat- ening the colony of Connecticut. One of the most faithful friends that Philip had in the time of his adversity, was Canonchet, chief sachem oi' all the Narragansets. Though he had forborne to take an active part in this hopeless war, yet he receiv- ed Philip and his shattered forces with open arms, and gave him the most generous countenance and support. This at once drew on Canonchet the hostility of the Eng- lish ; and it was determined to strike a single blow that should involve both the sachems in a common ruin. A great force was therefore gathered together from Mas- sachusetts, Plymouth and Connecticut, and sent into the Narraganset country, in the depth of winter, when the swamps, being frozen and leafless, no longer af- forded impenetrable fortresses to the Indians. Appre- hensive of attack, Canonchet had sheltered the greatei: part of his stores, together with the old, the infirm, the women and children of his tribe, in a strong fortress, where he and Philip had likewise drawn up the flower of their forces. This fortress, deemed by the Indians impregnable, was situated upon a rising mound, or kind of island, of five or six acres, in the middle of a swamp, constructed with a judgment and skill vastly superior to the usual fortifications of the Indians ; and indicative of the martial genius of these two chieftains. Guided by a renegado Indian, the Enghsh penetrated, through December snows, to this strong hold, and came upon the garrison by surprise. The fight was fierce and tumultuous. The assailants were repulsed in their first attack ; and several of their bravest offi- cers were shot down in the act of storming the fortress, KING PHILIP. 399 sword in hand. The assault was renewed with greater success ; a lodgement was effected ; the Indians were driven from one hold to another ; they disputed their ground inch by inch, fighting with the fury of despair ; most of their veterans were cut to pieces, and after a long and bloody battle, Philip and Canonchet, with a handful of surviving warriors, retreated from the fort and plunged into the depths of the surrounding forest. The victors set fire to the wigwams and the fort ; the whole was soon in a blaze ; and many of the old men, the women and the children perished in the flames. This last inhuman outrage overcame the sto- icism of the savage. The neighboring woods resounded with the yells of rage and despair, uttered by the fugi- tive warriors, as they beheld with anguish of heart, the desolation of their dwellings, and heard the agonizing cries of their wives and offspring. " The burning of the wigwams," says a contemporary writer, " the shrieks and cries of the women and children, and the yelling of the warriors, exhibited a most horrible and affecting scene, so that it greatly moved some of the soldiers." The defeat of the Narraganset fortress, and the death of Canonchet, were fatal blows to the fortunes of King Philip. He made an ineffectual attempt to raise a head of war, by stirring up the Mohawks to take up arms ; but though possessed of the native talents of a statesman, his arts were counteracted by the superior arts of his enlightened enemies, and the terror of their warlike skill began to subdue the resolution of the neighboring tribes. With a scanty band of followers, who still remained true to Ms desperate fortunes, the unhappy Philip wan- 400 FROM PROVIDENCE TO NEW-LONDON. dered back to the vicinity of Mount Hope, the ancient dwelling of his fathers. Here he lurked about like a spectre, among the desolated scenes of former pow- er and prosperity, now bereft of home and friends. Ev- en in this last refuge of desperation and despair, a sullen grandeur seems to gather round his memory. Defeated, but not dismayed — crushed to the earth, but not humiliated, he seemed to grow more haughty be- neath disaster, and to receive a fierce satisfaction in draining the last dregs of bitterness. The very idea of submission awakened the fury of Philip, and he even smote to death one of his followers who proposed an expedient of peace. The brother of the victim made his escape, and, in revenge, betrayed the retreat of his chieftain. A body of white men and Indians were im- mediately despatched to the swamp where Philip lay crouched, glaring with fury and despair. Before he was aware of their approach, they had began to sur- round him. In a little while he saw five of his trustiest followers laid dead at his feet ; a resistance was vain ; he rushed forth from his covert, and made a headlong attempt at escape, but was shot through the heart by a renegade Indian of his own nation. After leaving Fort Green, the steam-boat succes- sively passes Prudence, Patience, Hope and Despair islands, and Providence is reached in going 20 miles from the northern extremity of the latter. FROM PROVIDENCE TO NEW-LONDON. 56 miles. A stage leaves Providence twice a week in the morn- ing, passing through Centreville, West Greenwich, Hopkinton, Stonington and Mystic, and reaches NeW" Jyondon at evening. STONINGTON. 401 Centreville, 11 miles from Providence, is a man- ufacturing village, containing two cotton factories, sev- eral vi^eaving shops, and a number of small houses. West Greenwich, 2 miles. HoPKiNTON, 15 miles. Stonington, 11 miles. The village is incorporated ; contains a U. S. arsenal, several factories, a bank, an academy, two churches, and a population of more than 3000. It has a good harbor, and is a place of consid- erable trade. The settlement of the place commenced as early as 1649. It had previously been a part of the territory of the Pequots, a powerful and warlike tribe of Indians. The early English settlers, in different parts of Connec- ticut, had been frequently annoyed by this tribe ; and, in 1637, it became necessary to take efficient steps for their expulsion. An expedition was entrusted to Capt. Mason ; who, with about 300 colonists raised in Con- necticut and Massachusetts, and 200 Mohegan and Narraganset Indians, encamped on the night of the 26th of May at a place called Porter's rocks, a short distance from the present village of Stonington, and about three miles from one of the principal forts of the Pequots, which was situated on the summit of a hill. Two hours before day, the little army was in motion ; and on approaching the fort, it was found that the en- emy, about 700 strong, were in a profound sleep, with- out their usual watch, having spent the previous night in revelry and drunkenness. On a close approximation of Mason's men, a dog within the fort commenced barking, which awakened one of the Pequots ; who perceiving the approach of the assailants, aroused his i02 NEW-LONDON. comrades from their slumbers. Mason immediately advanced, and through the apertures of the pallisades poured in a fire, and then rushed in through a part of the fort slightly barricaded. Notwithstanding their confusion, the Pequots defended themselves with bra- very; but having but few other weapons than baws and arrows, they were unable to withstand the assail- ants, who cut them down without mercy with their swords and bayonets. To render the victory complete, Mason ordered their wigwams to be fired. The blaze soon spread in all directions, compelling the besieged to ascend the pallisades ; from whence more than one hundred were shot down by the assailants who had then surrounded the fort. Others attempting to break through the lines of the troops, were either shot or cut down ; and several perished in the flames. The scene continued about an hour ; when it was found that sev- enty wigwams had been destroyed, and that the ground was strewed with the bodies of between five and six hundred of the slain. Mason's loss was only two men killed and sixteen wounded. In August, 1814, a bombardment of Stonington took place from a British 74, a frigate, a sloop of war and an armed brig; but with the aid of two 18 pounders and a 4 pounder, the inhabitants defended the place j prevented the landing of troops from barges ; and final- ly compelled the enemy to haul off, with his brig con- siderably shattered. NEW-LONDON Is a city and port of entry. It has the best harbor in Connecticut, and is defended by Forts Trumbull and Griswold. The city is on the west bank of the Thames, NEW-LONDON. 408 Within 3 miles of its mouth, and csontains a eourt house, 2 banks, 5 churches, and a population of between 3 and 4000. Many of the houses on the heights, back of the town, and a few in the city, are handsome ; but the general appearance of the place is uninteresting. New-London, like Stonington, was once within the territory of the Pequot Indians, and was settled at the same time. About 4 miles east of the city, on what is called Fort Hill, this nation had their strongest fortress. But slight remains of it, however, are now to be seen. In September, 1781, after the treason of Arnold, an expedition was entrusted to his care against New-Lon- don. A strong detachment landed on both sides of the harbor at the mouth of the river. Arnold, who com- manded in person the troops which landed on the west side, immediately advanced against Fort Trumbull, an adjoining redoubt, and New-London. These posts be- ing untenable, were abandoned on his approach. Col. Eyere, who commanded the detachment which landed on the eastern side, proceeded to stonn Fort Griswold, situate on Groton Hill. It was occupied by a garrison of 160 men, commanded by Col. Ledyard, a part of whom had just evacuated the works on the opposite side of the river. Ledyard defended the fort, until the British succeeded in entering the embrasures with charged bayonets. Further resistance being useless, Ledyard surrendered his sword to the British colonel ; who, in defiance of every rule of civilized warfare, plunged it into the bosom of the conquered officer, and continued the carnage until the greater part of the gar- rison was destroyed. Eyere, however, lost his own life in the affair, and 200 of his men were either killed KK 404 FROM NEW-LONDON TO NORWICH. or wounded. New-London was, at the same time, set on fire by the direction of Arnold, and most of its build- ings and all the public stores deposited in the place, consumed in the conflagration. Forts Griswold and Trumbull are still in tolerable preservation ; and were garrisoned by the government during the late war with Great Britain. A steam-boat leaves New-London every Monday and Friday on the arrival of the Boston stage, which is generally at 7 P. M. and reaches New- York early the next morning. Leaves New- York for New-London every Wednesday and Saturday at 3 P. M. 5 and con- tinues on her trip from New-London, every Monday and Friday at 4 P. M. up the Thames river to Norwich, 14 miles distant. Stages also leave New-London on Tuesday, Thurs- day and Saturday, at 8 A. M. and arrive at Hartford, at 6 P. M. passing through Waterford, Montville, Salem, Colchester, Hebron, Marlborough, Glastenbury and East Hartford. Distance 47 miles — fare $3. This is the most direct route ; but the traveller will find it in- teresting to take a trip up the Thames to Norwich ; from whence a conveyance may be had to Hartford three times a week, as noticed hereafter. FROM NEW-LONDON TO NORWICH, by Steam- Boat, Previous to the settlement of New-London, in 1648, the Thames was. called the Pequot river; but at that period it received its present name. It rises in the Mashapaug pond in Union, 3 miles N. E. of Hartford, passes into Massachusetts, re-enters Connecticut, and NORWICH. 405 pursues a southerly course till it falls into Long Island Sound. It is navigable for large vessels no farther than Norwich. During the late war, while New-London was blockaded, the U. S. ships Macedonian, United States and Hornet, were moored in a cove above MaS' sapeaug Point ; and a small battery erected for their protection. MoHEGAN is on the west bank of the Thames, 4 miles south of Norwich, and is the residence of about 300 Mohegan Indians, the only remnant of that once pow- erful tribe, who formerly owned this section of country. On Hoi'ton^s Hill, not far from this place, the lines of an old Indian fort can still be traced. Trading Cove, about 1 mile farther, is a bay extend- ing a short distance into what was once the Indian country, and derived its name from the traffic which was here carried on between the colonists and the Mo- hegans. The residence of Uncas, their sachem, and early friend of the whites, was near this cove, now the centre of the Indian reservation. NORWICH Is an incorporated city. It contains three compact settlements ; of which Chelsea Landing, situate at the point of land between the Shetucket and Yantic rivers, is the principal. Its location is peculiarly romantic ; and it is a place of much enterprise and business. What is called the Town is 2 miles northwest of Chel- sea, containing the court house and some other public buildings ; and the third settlement is Bean Hill, in the western part of Norwich. The city contains a bank, 4 or 5 churches, and several manufacturing establish- 406 NORWICH. ments. The Yantic falls, 1 mile from Chelsea, arc- handsome, and afford facilities for mills and manufac- tories. From a rock 70 or 80 feet in height, which overhangs the stream, tradition says a number of Nar- ragansets once precipitated themselves when pursued by the Mohegans. Settlements were commenced at Norwich as early as 16G0. A part of the town was first conveyed to Thom- as Leffingwell, a colonial militia officer, by the sachem Uncas, in consideration of services rendered him in a war with a neighboring tribe. A fort belonging to Un- cas, on the Pequot river, was closely besieged by the Narragansets ; and the provisions being nearly expend- ed, it was reduced to the last extremity. In this situa- tion, Uncas contrived to notify the English at Saybrook fort of his distressed condition. Leffingwell, who com- manded that fort, immediately conveyed to the besieg- ed a supply of pi'ovisions ; which being soon known to the assailants, they were induced to raise the siege. For this generous conduct of Leffingwell, Uncas con- veyed to him the land about the fort, and afterwards gave him a formal deed of a township, embracing most of the present town of Norwich. On an elevated bank north of what is called the Cove, and near the Yantic falls, is the burying ground of the royal family of the Mohegans, commonly called " the- burying ground of the Uncasses." Many of their graves are still designated by coarse stones ; on some of which are English inscriptions. Uncas was buried here, and many of his decendants ; but his family is now nearly extinct. There are one or two living who claim a kindred ; but who have very little of the mag-». naaimity or valor for which he was so conspicuous^ FROM NORWICH TO HARTFOR]). 407 The Plabi near the burying ground, was the summer residence of the Mohegans, and is a most delightful spot. FROM NORWICH TO HARTFORD. Stages leave Norwich on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 8 A. M., and arrive at Hartford at 8 P. M. Distance 39 miles — fare $2,50. The intermediate dis- tances and places are as follows : Miles. Bozrah, 5 Lebanon, 4 Coventry, 12 Miles. Bolton, 4 East Hartford, 13 Hartford, 1 East Hartford is located on the east bank of the Connecticut river, directly opposite Hartford, with which it is connected by an elegant bridge, which, in- cluding the cause-way, is nearly a mile long. The vil- lage contains 4 churches, several manufacturing estab- lishments, and between 2 and 3000 inhabitants. HARTFORD. A settlement was commenced by the English at this place in 1634. The Dutch, from New-Netherlands, had previously established a trading house and port at the place, for the purpose of carrying on a commerce with the Indians, and were disposed to prevent the Enghsh from participating in the traffic. But finding that this could not be effected, without a bloody con- test, they abandoned the design. The charter which was originally granted to the col- onists of Connecticut, having been demanded by the English monarch in 1686, through the medium of an agent, it was reluctantly surrendered by the colonial kk2 40S HARTFORCf. legielalure. Tliis took place in an evening ; and ^vhifc it remained on a table in a room where an agent arid several British officers had assembled, the windows be- ing open, on a preconcerted signal, the candles were extinguished by persons in the street, and the charter seized by a citizen in the roorn, and conveyed to a tree; in the cavity of which it remained for several years. This tree is still standing ; and is known by the name of the Charter Oak. It is located in the lower part of the town in the street running east from the south church, and is dircctVy in front of the ancient mansion of the Wyllis family. The charter is still preserved in the office of the secretary of state. Hartford is now the largest city in the state. It is located on the west bank of the Connecticut river, at the head of sloop navigation, and 50 miles from its mouth. The city is handsomely laid out, and contains a number of elegant buildings and private residences. Among its public buildings, are a state house, arsenal, 3 banks, a museum, an academy, a college, an asylum for the deaf and dumb, an asylum for the insane, and 7 or S churches. Population, between 8 and 9000. The principal public houses are Bennet's, Morgan's and Ripley's. Washington College is in Main-street, in the south part of the city. It was opened in 1324, and consists of two edifices; one of which is 150 feet long and 4 stories high, and contains the rooms of the students. In the other is the chapel, recitation rooms and library. The Deaf mid Dumb Jisylum is on Tower Hill, one mile west of the city ; and was the first institution of the kind established in the United States. It is under the dirpction oi'Mr. Gallautlct, a gentleman eminently (juallfied for the station. He is assisted by Mr. Le Clcrck, who is deaf and dumb, but a man of distin- guished talents. The permanent fund of the institu- tion, including a donation of land by Congress, amounts to .$215,539 ; of which sum {^80,000 are available. The number of pupils is generally about 70 ; many of whom are supported by public and private charities. A visit to the institution is unusually interesting. The utmost order and decorum prevail ; and the stran- ger will be delighted with the means here employed for enlightening and cultivating the minds of an unfortu- neite class of the community ; and with the rapid im- provement they make, not only in writing, but in a study of many of the sciences. Every thing is commu- nicated by means of signs. After being taught the mode of conveying the most necessary ideas, they pro- ceed to study the alphabet employed at the institution ; then the names of visible objects, and the order of the letters used in designating them ; and finally a knowl- edge of absent objects and abstract ideas, by means of ingenious devices and definitions. Many soon attain a knowledge of writing correctly ; and some are ena- bled to communicate their ideas in chaste and even ele- gant language. The nexo Exchange Buildings, on the corner of Main and State streets, are deserving of notice, as a speci- men of good taste, and is ornamental to the city. The J^ew City Hall is an elegant structure, creditable to the taste and munificence of the inhabitants. The new Episcopal Church, and the High School in Washington-street, occupy a prominent place. The 410 HARTFORD. latter is delightfully situated on a commanding emi- nence, and ranks in spaciousness and beauty with the most favored establishments of the kind in other cities . The Episcopal Church is a monument of liberal public spirit guided by good taste, and is surpassed in design and execution by few, if any similar buildings in our country. The Hospital for the Insane, is a stone building, 150 feet long and 50 wide, 4 stories high, with wings of 3 stories. It is located a lUtle south of the city. Hartford has undergohe a surprising change within a few years. Its streets have been greatly improved ; many of its old buildings have given place to new and elegant dwellings, and the whole appearance of the city exhibits an unusual degree of enterprise and pros- perity. STEAM BOATS. A steam boat leaves Hartford for New- York on Mon- day, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday, at 11 A. M. reaching New- York the next morning; and leaves New- York on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Fri- day at 4 P. M. reaching Hartford the next day at noon. STAGES. To J^ew-Haven and J^Tew-York. — A stage leaves Hart- ford every morning, (Sundays excepted) which reaches New-Haven at noon, and New- York the next morning. Fare to New-Haven, 40 miles, $2 ; to New- York, 123 miles, v$5,50. To Boston. — A stage leaves daily (Sundays excepted) at 6 A. M. and reaches Boston at 12 at night. Dis- tanccj 136 miles — fare $5,50. FROM HARTFORD TO NEW-HAVEN. 411 To Litchfield, Ct. — A stage leaves Hartford on Mon- day, Wednesday and Friday at 8 A. M. and arrives at Litchfield at 3 P. M.— Distance 30 miles, fare $2. To Hanover, JV*. H. {up Connecticut river.) — A stage leaves Hartford daily, (except Sundays) arrives at Brattleborough, Vt. the first day, and Hanover, N. H. the second — passing through Windsor, Ct. Springfield, Northampton, Deerfield, and Greenfield, Mass. Brat- tleborough and Westminster, Vt. Walpole and Charles- town, N. H., Windsor and Hartford, Vt. to Hanover. [This line intersects the daily stage for Boston at Northampton, and the daily stage for Saratoga Springs at Charlestown.] Distance from Hartford to Hanover, 152 miles — fare $7,25. To J^ew-London. — h. stage leaves Hartford on Sun- day, Wednesday and Friday at 8 A. M. and reaches New-London at 5 P. M. — Distance 47 miles — fare $3. To Albany. — A stage leaves Hartford and Albany ev- ery morning (Sunday excepted) at 2, and arrives at each place at 7 P. M. — Distance 96 miles — fare $5. FROM HARTFORD TO NEW-HAVEN.— 40 miles. The intermediate places and distances are as follows : Miles. Wethersfield, 4 Rocky Hill, 3 Middletown, 8 Miles, Durham, 7 Northford, 8 New-Haven, 10 Wethersfield is located on the west bank of the Connecticut river, 4 miles below Hartford. The soil, which is of tlie finest order, is principally devoted to the culture of onions ; of which large quantities are export- ed annually. The labor is principally performed by women and children. The new penitentiary of tho state is erected at this place. 412 MIDDLETOWN. Rocky Hill, S miles ; a parish in the town of Weth- ersfield, containing a lofty eminence, from which a rich and variegated prospect of the surrounding country is enjoyed. Six miles farther is a village, called Middle- town Upper Houses ; from which to the city of Middle- town is 2 miles. MIDDLETOWN, A port of entry, is handsomely located on the west bank of the Connecticut river, 31 miles from its mouth. Among its public buildings are a court house, jail, alms-house, bank, 10 churches, and a military academy. There are also several extensive manufactories of rifles, swords, buttons, ivory combs, woollen and cotton goods, &c. The population of the city is about 3500. Francis', Swathel's, and Boardman's are among the best public houses. Capt, Palndge's Military Academy is pleasantly situat- ed a short distance from the city. The two principal buildings are each 150 feet long, 50 broad and 4 stories high. There is also a chapel, with recitation rooms above, and a dining hall. The latter is 120 feet long, and faces the parade. The whole assumes a very hand- some and imposing appearance ; and from the top of the chapel may be had an extensive view of the sur- rounding country. The course of instruction is similar to that pursued at the military academy at West Point. The scholars wear the uniform of cadets ; and, besides other sciences, are taught the use of arms, and are sub- ject to a strict military discipline. On the eastern bank of the Connecticut, opposite to Middletown, are several quarries of free stone, used for MIDDLETOWN* 4lS building. Immediately below the city, the river turns abruptly to the west ; and passes between two lofty hills, forming what are called the Narrows. Within these Narrows, on the south bank of the river, is a lead mine, which was used during the revolutionary war. It can be approached only in boats or by means of a foot path.* In proceeding on the stage route to New-Haven, the only object witnessed worthy of remark, is a natural ice house in the parish of Northford, IS miles from Mid- dletown, and 7 from New-Haven. It is on the declivi- ty of a trap ridge near the road ; and contains ice throughout the year. A natural ice house, of still greater extent, is in the town of Meriden, on another route from Hartford to New-Haven, and nearly equa-distant from those pla- ces. The Journal of Science remarks, that it is in a country composing " a part of the secondary trap re- gion of Connecticut, and is marked by numerous distinct ridges of green stone, which present lofty mural preci- pices, and from their number, contiguity and parallel- * Continuing a course down the river, the steam boat successively passes Middle Haddam, Haddam, East Haddam, Essex or Pettipaug, and Saybrook, where the river enters Long Island Sound. The shores are gen- erally bold and rocky, and present but few objects of interest. Saybrook was the first town settled on the river; at which time (1635) a small fort was erected at the place. The town was originally granted to Lord Say and Seal, Lord Brook and others ; and derived its name from these proprietors. Yale College was locat- ed here for a time, and afterwards removed to New- Haven. 414 MIDDLETOWN. ism, they often form narrow precipitous defiles, filled more or less with fragments of rocks of various sizes, from that of a hand stone to that of a cottage. These firagments are the detritus or debris of these moun- ^tains, and every one in the least acquainted with such countries, knows how much they always abound with similar ruins. In such a defile the natural ice house in question is situated. On the south-western side, there is a trap ridge of naked perpendicular rock, which, with the slo- ping ruins at the base, appears to be 400 feet high ; the parallel ridge which forms the other side of the de- file is probably not over 40 feet high, but it rises ab- ruptly on the eastern side, and is covered by other wood, which occupies the narrow valley also. This valley is, moreover, choked in an astonishing degree with the ruins of the contiguous mountain ridge, and exhibits many fragments of rock which would fill a large room. As the defiile is very narrow, these frag- ments have, in their fall, been arrested here, by the low parallel ridge, and are piled on one another in vast confusion, forming a series of cavities which are situa- ted among and under these rocks. Many of them have reposed there for ages, as appears from the fact that small trees, (the largest that the scanty soil, accu- mulated by revolving centuries can support) are now growing on some of these fragments of rock. Leaves also and other vegetable ruins have accumulated among the rocks and trees, and choked the mouths of many of the cavities among the ruins. This defile, thus narrow and thus occupied by forest, and^by rocky ruins, runs nearly N. and S. and is completely impervious to NEW -HAVEN. 415 the sun's rays, except when he is near the meridian. Then, indeed, for an hour, he looks into this secluded valley, but the trees and the rocks and the thick beds of leaves scarcely permit his beams to make the slight- est impression. It is in the cavities beneath the masses of rocks al- ready described, that the ice is formed. The ground descends a little to the south, and a small brook ap- pears to have formed a channel among the rocks. The ice is thick and well consolidated, and its gradual melt- ing, in the warm season, causes a stream of ice cold water to issue from this defile. This fact has been known to the people of the vicinity for several genera- tions, and the youth have, since the middle of the last century, been accustomed to resort to this place, in parties, for recreation, and to drink the waters of the cold-flowing brook," NEW-HAVEN, Is usually pronounced by travellers, to be one of the handsomest towns in the Union. It is located around a harbor which sets up about 4 miles from Long Island Sound ; and is the semi-capital .of the state. The city is built on a large plain, encircled on all sides, except those occupied by the water, by hills and lofty moun- tains. It is divided into two parts, called the old and new townships ; in each of which is an open square. The houses are generally neat, and some are very ele- gant. To each dwelling, there is generally attached a garden, and frequently a beautiful yard in front. Ad- ded to which, several of the streets are adorned with lofty trees, giving to the whole a rural and most de- 416 NEW-HAVEN. lightful appearance. Among the public buildings are a state house, the college edifices, 5 churches, a court house, jail, 2 banks, a custom house and 3 or 4 acade- mies. The population is between 11 and 12,000. The Public Square or Green, near the centre of the city, is an elegant spot, containing several acres, and is surrounded by stately elms. In the centre are three churches and the state house ; on the west side, the col- lege buildings; and on the east side^ fronting the state house, the Tontine Coffee House. The space immedi- ately in the rear of the churches, called the Upper Green, was formerly used as a burying ground ; but in 1821 the monuments were removed to the new bury- ing ground, in the northwestern part of the city. The ancient monument ofDixwell, {seep. 352,) is still to be seen, and it is believed by many that the other regi- cides, Goffe and Whalley, were also interred here ; but this opinion is unsupported by evidence, Goffe died at Hadley, and was probably buried there ; and of Whalley no certain information was ever obtained af- ter he left Hadlev. Yale College was foundgd in 1701, and was named af- ter its early benefactor, Elihu Yale, governor of the East India Company. It was originally located at Kil- lingworth ; afterwards removed to Saybro<^, (see "jo. 413) ; and from thence, in 1717, to New-Haven. The faculty is composed of a president, 10 professors, a li- brarian and S tutors. The library consists of about 10,000 volumes; and the literary societies among the students have libraries amounting, collectively, to 5000 more. The cabinet of minerals is very extensive, and by far the most valuable of any in the Union. The col- lege buildings consist of four spacious edifices, each NEW-HAVEN. 417 4 stories high, 104 feet long and 40 wide, and each con- taining 32 rooms for students ; two chapels, one con- taining a philosophical chamber ; a Lyceum, containing the hbrary and recitation rooms — all of brick ; and a handsome dining hall in the rear of the other buildings, built of stone. Seven of these buildings stand in a line fronting the green, the Lyceum occupying a central position ; and "the whole, with the charming scenery around, form a most enchanting and elegant landscape. The medical institution fronting College street, is con- nected with the college, and has a valuable anatom- ical museum. The number of students at Yale is gen- erally from 450 to 500. The alumni of the institution amounted, in 1826, to upwards of 4000 ; of whom more than 2200 were then living. The Jfeio Burying Ground, containing several acres, is divided into parallelograms, which are subdivided for families. The ground is planted with trees, mostly willows; and the white monuments, several of which are obelisks, seen through the foliage, with the taste and uniformity every where discovered, give to the whole a most impressive and solemn appearance. The Tontine Coffee House, kept by Mr. Andrews, is one of the best establishments of the kind in the U. S. It is located directly in front of the state house and college edifices, the public square intervening, com- manding from its upper or fourth story, a beautiful and extensive view of the city and the surrounding country. The Tontine, which is built of brick, is 80 feet long, with a wing extending back 100 feet. It contains a spacious dining hall, cotillion room, 8 private and pub- lic parlours, and a sufficient number of lodging cham- bers to accommodate from 80 to 100 guests. It is kept 4t8 FARMIJVGTON CANAL. in the best style, and is entitled to the most liberal pat- ronage. West Rock is 2 miles north-west of New-Haven. It is the southern extremity of the east ridge of the Green Mountains, and is a perpendicular bluff fronting the south^ 400 feet in height. The village of Hotchkisstown is at its foot. The cave in which the regicide judges, Whalley and Goffe, secreted themselv^ for three or four years, {see p. 352,) is on the summit of the rock, about a mile north of the bluff The cave is formed by the crevices between several large rocks, apparently thrown together by some convulsion, and is entirely above ground. Near the top of one of the rocks is this inscription : " Opposition to tyrants is obedience to God." During the continuance of the regicides at this place, they were furnished daily with food by a family who resided near the foot of the mountain. East Rock is 2 miles north east of New-Haven, and is the southern termination of the Mount Tom range of mountains. It is 370 feet high ; and from its top a fine view is had of New-Haven, its harbor, the Sound and Long Island. It was for some years the residence of a hormit, who was found dead in his habitation a few years since. The Farmington Canal, which was originally commen- ced at the north line of the state, terminates at New- Haven — distance 58 miles, lockage 218 feet. This ca- nal has since been extended to Northampton, Mass. between 20 and 30 miles farther; and a branch has been constiiicted from Farmington up the Farmington river, to New-Hartford, 15 miles. The towns bordering on the Sound, near New-Ha- ven, are visited in the summer months by numerous FROM NEW-HAVEN TO NEW YORK. 419 invalids for the benefit of the sea breeze and a salubri- ous climate. Among these towns, Guilford, 15 miles east of New-Haven, is generally preferred. It has two harbors, is a place of considerable trade, and is con- stantly supplied with the best of oysters, lobsters and fish, taken in and near the harbors. Steam Boats ply between New-Haven and New- York daily, leaving the former place at 8 P. M. and the latter at 7 A. M. The passage is generally performed in 8 or 9 hours. Fare $2. Stages leave Nej(\^Haven daily, for Hartford, Boston, Albany, and New- York. Distance to Hartford 40 miles, fare, ,$2; to Boston, 136 miles, fare $7,50 ; to Albany, 1 10 miles, fare §7 ; to New- York, 86 miles, fare $4.* * This route is usually performed in 12 or 14 hours, and the intervening" places and distances are as follows : Miles. wStratford, 13 Bridgeport, 3 Fairfield, 5 Norwalk, 10* Miles. Stamford, 11 Greenwich, 6 Harlaem, 30 New- York, 8 Bridgeport is handsomely situated on both banks of the Pughquonnuck river. The village contains a bank and two churches. Fairfield is a port of entry on Lon^* Island Sound, containing a court house, academy, several churches, and a population of about 2000. It was on a low level piece of ground, which is seen on the left side of the road about a mile and a half after leaving the village, that the remnant of the Pequot tribe of Indians, after the destruction of their fort by Capt. Mason at Mystic, (see p. 401,) were either killed or captured. The bat- tle was severe and bloody, and some reliques of arms used in the contest are at this day occasionally found by the inhabitants, ll2 420 FROM NEW-HAVEN TO LITCHFIELD. FROM NEW-HAVEN TO LITCHFIELD. A stage leaves New-Haven daily for Litchfield, pass- ing through Watcrbury and Watertown — distance 38 miles. Passing West Rock, (see p. 418,) and proceeding from thence for a considerable distance in a northerly direction, through a beautiful valley, having on its right a lofty rocky barrier, with rude perpendicular precipi- ces, Beacon Mountaiii is reached in travelling 14 miles from New-Haven. This mountain is a ridge of almost naked rock stretching to the south-west. " The road, which is formed in the natural gap of the mountain* here winds through a bold gulf or defile, so narrow, that at one place only a gingle carriage can pass at once. On both sides, the clifts are lofty, particularly on the left ; and on the right, a little distance from the road, they overhang in a frightful manner." Beyond this gap, the road turns more to the left, running along a rivulet ; and after three or four miles, on rising an eminence, the Naugatuck, a branch of the Housatonic NoRWALK is on the Sound, and is a pleasant village, containing an academy and 3 churches. West Chester County, which is entered in a few miles after leaving Greenwich, and which was " neu- tral ground" during the revolutionary war, was selected by Mr. Cooper, the novelist, as the principal sctne of his " Spy." At HoRSENECK, 33 miles from N. York, the traveller is shown the steep down which Gen. Putnam descend- ed on horse-back during the revolution. At Harlaem, S miles fiom New- York, the road pass- es near the East river, afibrding the traveller a view of Hurl Gate. (See/>. 106.) LITCHFIELD. 421 river, is discovered. It runs through a deep and nar- row gulf, which is seen from the road. Watertown, 26 miles from New-Haven, is on a commanding hill, and is a beautiful little village, con- taining two churches. Litchfield is on a handsome eminence, and is con- sidered one of the most pleasant villages in the state. The principal street extends more than a mile in length, and contains a collection of neat houses, adorn- ed with gardens and court yards. Among the public buildings are a court house, jail, bank, and 2 churches. There is also at this place a young ladies' school, which has obtained much celebrity ; and a distinguished law school, established in 1784 by the late Tapping Reeve, and now under the charge of the Hon. James Gould. The number of students educated at this institution since its establishment is between 6 and 700. Mount Tom, near the south-west corner of this town, is 700 feet above the river at its base, and affords from its top an extensive prospect. The Great Pond, in Litchfield, comprises an area of about 900 acres, is the largest in the state, and is a beautiful sheet of water, affording at its outlet a num- ber of valuable mill seats. A Chalybeate Spring has been discovered within a few years, on the east side of Mount Prospect, four miles west of the village of Litchfield. It issues from an extensive bed of sulphuret of iron, and is copious and perennial, exhibiting in its course much oxide of iron, ochre, and a white deposit. Mount Prospect, is a rocky, wood clad, elevated ridge, of two miles extent. From its summit an interesting 422 FROM LITCHFIELD TO HARTFORD. and diversified view is presented of villages and lakes, and of a well cultivated, healthy country. From Litchfield, a stage may be taken daily, passing through East Goshen, Norfolk, Canaan, Shefiiield, Great Barrington, West Stockbridge, Chatham, Nas- sau, Schodack and Greenbush to Albany, and reaching the latter place in about 24 hours. Distance 72 miles — fare $4. This is the most direct route, also, from Litchfield to Saratoga Springs ; but, to make the tour of New-England more complete, it is recommended Jo proceed from Litchfield to Hartford, and from thence up the beautiful valley of the Connecticut river, which is variegated with villages and country seats, and pre- sents some of the finest scenery on the continent. FROM LITCHFIELD TO HARTFORD. A stage may be taken at Litchfield on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 8 A. M, passing through Harwinton, Burlington and Farmington, and reaching Hartford at 3 P. M. Distance 30 miles — fare $2. Harwinton is a small village, 7 miles from Litch- field, on the Naugatuck river. Burlington, 7 miles. Farmington, 6 miles. This is a pleasant village, lo- cated on the Farmington river, which, after leaving the Anllage, takes a northerly course for 1 5 miles, where it is joined by the Salmon river. It then turns to the south-east, passing between lofty mountains and de- scends a cataract of 150 feet ; after which it is called the Windsor riVer, and joins the Connecticut 4 miles above Hartford. Farmington contams 3 churches and a population of between 2 and 3000. [For a notico of ROUTE UP THE CONNECTICUT RIVER. 423 the Farmington canal, which passes through this place, see page 418.] Hartford, 10 miles. (See p. 407.) ROUTE UP THE VALLEY OF CONNECTICUT RIVER. Stages run daily between Hartford, Conn, and Han- over, N. H. up the Connecticut river, as noticed at page 411. Passing through East Hartford, {see p^ 40^^,) the first village reached is Windsor, 7 miles from Hartford, located on the west bank of the river. Settlements were commenced at this place, as well as at Hartford, in 1633. Enfield, 9 miles. A canal has been recently con- structed around the falls at this place, of sufficient di- mensions to receive steam-boats ; and they now pass as far up as Springfield without difficulty, and, except in very low water, for a considerable distance above Windsor, Vt. This canal commences at the head of the Falls, by a wing dam 700 feet long, which reaches to the middle of the river. From the lower end of the wing dam a pier extends down 200 feet parallel to and 100 feet from the west bank, and is raised above the river so as to form a basin and safe entrance to the Grand Lock. At right angles to this pier, a breast wall of solid masonry, strengthened by butresses, extends 70 feet towards the bank, and is there united to the grand lock. This and the breast wall are 16 feet higher than the surface of the water in the canal, pre- senting a firm defence against the highest floods. The breat wall covers twelve sluices, with sliding gates," for the free admission of water for hydrauUc purposes. The river banks are generally high and rocky, for about 424 SUFFIELD. three miles below the grand lock, and the canal is formed by an embankment of earth raised in the bed of the river, and protected on the outside by a stone wall. Two miles below the guard lock, Mill brook crosses the line of the canal, and is passed by an aqueduct of 90 feet long and 60 feet wide, having six piers and abutments of substantial masonry. The height of the artificial embankment increases gradually, as it passes down the river, until it rises to a perpendicular eleva- tion of 25 feet, when the high river bank retires to the west, and the canal is carried about two miles over land to its termination below the falls. Here are three locks of masonry of ten feet lift each. The locks are sepa- rated by pools 50 feet wide, in Avhich ascending and descending boats may pass each other, and avoid the detention which is unavoidable where several locks are combined in a connected line. The dimensions of the locks are 90 feet by 20 in the clear, and they are cal- culated to have four feet depth of" water. The depth of the canal varies from four to twenty feet. The aver- age width, at the surface of the water, is about seventy feet, and the total length five and a half miles. SuFFiELD, 1 mile from Enfield, on the west bank of the river, is a beautiful town. The village, which is on an eminence about a mile west of the river road, is composed principally of one street, half a mile in ex- tent. The houses, with their handsome gardens and yards, present a picturesque and elegant appearance. A sulphur spring, a mile or two southwest of the vil- lage, is a place of some resort by invalids. West Springfield, 9 miles, is located on the west bank of the Connecticut river, and contains several SPRINGFIELD. 425 handsome private dwellings. A bridge here crosses the river, connecting the place with Springfield, on the opposite side ; which is a large and handsome village. The houses are principally lo- cated at the foot of a hill ; on the west side of which are several elegant residences, and on the summit a U. S. arsenal. The village contains a court house, jail, two churches, and several manufactories. The huildings composing the arsenal on the heights, occupy a large square, and are surrounded by a high wall. They are mostly built of brick and present a magnificent appearance. About 13,000 "muskets are manufactured here annually. The water works em- ployed for the purpose are on Mill river, a mile south of the arsenal. Springfield became the theatre of savage barbarity during Philip's war in 1675. The towns still further up the river had, for some time previous, suffered severely from repeated Indian incursions. But the Springfield tribe had thus far remained quiet ; and it was not till the month of October of this year, that Philip could succeed by his artifices, to enlist them in his favor. On the night of the 4th, it was ascertained by means of a friendly Indian, that 300 of the tribe had suddenly and secretly assembled at a fort on Long Hill, about a mile below the village. Thi§ intelligence produced much consternation among the inhabitants ; and they im- mediately repaired to their fortified houses. No dis- turbance, however, occuring in the night, hopes were entertained that hostilities were not intended on the part of the Indians. Lieut. Cooper, the commandant of the place, and another, accordingly resolved on re- pairing to the fort, for the purpose of dissipating the 456 SOUTH HADLEY FALLS. fears that still existed among the inhabitants. Having reached the small stream at the lower part of the vil" lage, Cooper and his companion were shot by Indians who were concealed in the woods. This seemed to be a signal for attack; as the whole body immediately rushed into the town with a horrid yell, and set fire to the unfortified dwellings, and barns. The whole wer§ soon enveloped in flames and consumed. During this period, a fire was kept up from the fortified houses up- on the Indians, and several killed ; but it was not till they had destroyed 32 dwellings and nearly as many barns, and plundered every thing within their reach, that they withdrew. A brick house standing at the time of this catastrophe, is still in tolerable preservation. During the rebellion of Shays, in 1786, the armoury at this place was attacked by him. But he M'as repuls- ed, with the loss of a few men ; and his followers sub- sequently dispersed. Pursuing the course of the river on the west side, over a beautiful country, South Hadlet Falls are reached in going 12 miles from Springfield. The river here descends in the dis- tance of two and a half miles, 52 feet ; and on the east side, commencing at South Hadley village, a canal has been constructed, corresponding in extent with these falls, through which lumber and the largest boats pass. Previous to reaching Northampton, the river, (in which there is an abrupt turn,) passes between Mount Tom on the south, and Mount Holyoke {see p. 348) on the north. North of the latter mountain, a most charm- ing and extensive plain is presented, embracing many elegant villages and country seats. MUDDY BROOK. 427 Northampton, 5 miles from Soutli Hadlcy. (See p, S47.) Hadlet, 2 miles east of Northampton. {Seep, 351.) Hatfield, 5 miles north of Northampton, on the west side of the river, is a neat and venerable town, having been settled as early as 1658. In October, 1675, after the burning of Springfield, (see p. 425,) the Indi- ans under Philip, flushed with their repeated successes, made an attack on Hatfield ; which was then defended by two companies, aided by a third, which came to their relief during the conflict. The Indians were about 700 strong, and made a furious assault upon the town in various directions, pillaging and burning several of the houses. But they were defeated, and compelled to seek safety in a precipitate flight. On the 30th of May of the following year, another attack was made upon Hatfield by 600 Indians. Twelve unfortified buildings were immediately burnt ; but the others, which were pallisaded, were defended by a few inhabitants. Part of the Indians then repaired to the fields, and attacked the men at their labor ; but 25 young men crossed the river from Hadley, and rushing upon the Indians, killed several, and finally, with the aid of the inhabitants, dispersed them. Muddy Brook, 9 miles from Hatfield, is a small vil- lage, deriving its name from a stream which passes through the place, bordered by a narrow morass. The place in 1675, and for some time subsequent, was call- ed Bloody Brook, in consequence of a battle which was fought with the Indians on the 18th of September of that year. Capt. Lothrop, who had been despatched MM 42b MUDDY BROOK. with 80 men and several teams, to secure a quantity of wheat in Deerfield, two or three miles further nortli, was surprised on his return through this place, by a party of 700 Indians, wlio had secretly watched his movements, and who lay in ambush awaiting his ar- rival. He had no sooner crossed the small stream above mentioned, than they rushed upon him, pouring in such a deadly fire as to produce complete discomfit- ure. Lothrop and his men fied ; but being pursued and overtaken at all points, they resolved to sell their lives in a vigorous struggle. They accordingly posted themselves behind the neighboring trees ; when the oenflict became a trial of skill in sharp shooting. At length the struggle terminated in the annihilation of nearly the whole of the English. Lothrop was killed in the early part of the action ; and his loss, including teamsters, amounted to ninety. The troops at Deer- fieldj under Captain Mosely, hearing the musketry, hastened to the scene of combat, and arrived soon af- ter its close. They found the Indians stripping the slain. Mosely improving the favorable opportunity, rushed upon them, cutting them down in all directions, and driving the remainder into the adjacent swamps. The next morning, it was found that a few Indians had returned to the field of battle for the purpose of plun- der ; but they were soon dispersed. Though the loss of the enemy on the previous day was estimated at about 100, the engagement was, nev- ertheless, more disastrous in its consequences to the Enghsh. The destruction of 90 valuable men, the flower of a thinly scattered population, was calculated to produce much despondency, and occasion the most DEERFIELD. 429 serious apprehensions for the safety of the remaining colonists. The place where this battle \^fe fought, is near the centre of the village, about 30 rods south of the church. The bridge over the stream is located at the place where Lothrop crossed. Some remains of a coarse monument once erected here are still visible. Deerfield, 3 miles from Muddy Brook, and 17 miles north of Northampton, is a handsome village on the west bank of the Connecticut river. It is in the midst of a very fertile and beautiful country, presenting a succession of rich and highly cultivated farms. The town was among the early settlements on the river ; and, more than any other place, was the theatre of In- dian warfare. In September, 1675, an attack was made on the place, one man killed and several houses redu- ced to ashes. For about 20 years subsequent to this, owing to repeated incursions of the savages, the inhab- itants were often compelled to abandon their dwellings and seek a temporary asylum in the neighboring towns. During the French wars under William and Anne, how- ever, they maintained their ground until 1704 ; made many improvements and enclosed the centre of the vil- lage by an extensive but imperfect pallisaded work. This fortification was attacked by about 350 French and Indians in the month of February of that year. They had secretly taken a position two miles north of the village on the evening of the 9th ; from whence they cautiously proceeded to the fort the next morning lefore day. There being no sentinels posted, the for- fication was easily entered, and the work of destruc- n commenced ere the inhabitants had aroused from !ir slumbers. A feeble resistance, only, could be 430 GREENFIELD. made. All the houses, except one, \\'ithin the palli- sades, were burnt ; between 40 and 50 of the inhabi- tants were killed, andfl[12, including women and chil- dren made prisoners. In the drear of winter, with a scanty supply of provisions, and with little clothing, the unfortunate captives were compelled to take up their line of march for Canada. Mr. Williams, the cler- gyman of the place, and his family, were of the number. His wife* was murdered in two or three days after commencing the excursion ; and sixteen others either died or were massacred before reaching the Province. Most of those who survived, after remaining in captivi- ty for some time, were redeemed. A daughter of Mr. WiUiams, however, who had married an Indian chief, refused to return. She assumed the habiliment of a savage, and died in Canada some years afterwards. Several of her descendants are still living there. The house which survived the conflagration at Deer- field is still standing, and is owned by Col. Elihu Hoyt. It is in a tolerable state of preservation, and exhibits to this day the perforation made in the door by toma- hawks, as well as the marks of balls in the interior. One of these marks is shown, as having been made by a ball which killed a female in the house ; and in one of the timbers a bullet is seen, which has never been extracted. Greenfield, 4 miles frqm Deerfield, is a large and pleasant village, on the west side of the river ; from which it is distant 2 miles. It contains a court house, * She was afterwards, with h'^r hu?band, interred in the church-yard at Deerfield j and marble slabs placed over their graves. turner's falls. 431 jail, bank and 3 churches. It is a central position for the trade of the surrounding country ; and is a place of wealth and enterprise. A young Ladies^ Seminary at this place is beautifully located and under excellent regulations. Turner's Falls, on the Connecticut river, are 3 miles from Greenfield, in a north-easterly direction. The road taken in visiting them is east of the ordinary stage route ; and it is customary, therefore, after an ex- cursion to the falls, to return to Greenfield. The route is principally over the gi'ound taken by Capt. Turner, in his attack on the Indians in 1676. Thfe fall is be- tween forty and fifty feet ; but by the erection of a dam for the accommodation of a canal, the cataract has lost much of its original wildness. The Indians, amounting to several hundreds, having taken a position on elevated ground, on the west bank of the river at the head of the fall, it was deemed im- portant to dislodge them. This service was undertak- en by Capt. Turner, at the head of about 160 mounted troops. He left Hatfield on the 17th of May, 1676, and reached within half a mile of the Indian encamp- ment before day the next morning, without discovery. Here his men left their horses, and by a rapid march, reached the camp before the Indians awoke from their slumbers. A deadly and destructive fire was immedi- ately commenced. Believing it to proceed from their ancient and powerful enemy the Mohawks, many of the Indians fled to the river, and leaped into their ca- noes ; but in attempting to cross, they were mostly shot or precipitated over the cataract. Others fled to the rocks of the river bank, where they were cut down, without resistance ; and few escaped the victorious 432 arm of the assailants. One hundred were left dead on the field ; one hundred and forty were seen to descend the cataract ; and their whole loss was afterwards as- certained to have been 300. Turner lost but one man. In his retreat, he was less fortunate. He was at- tacked by other parties of Indians on the route — his men divided — himself killed ; and the loss of his party, before they reached Hatfield, amounted to between 30 and 40. Capt. T. is supposed to have fallen in what is called Greenfield Meadow, at the mouth of a small stream on which a mill now stands ; as his body was afterwards found at that place by a scouting party of the English. Bernardstown, 5 miles north of Greenfield. Vernon, 6 miles : the first town reached in entering the state of Vermont. Fort Dummer, built to protect the inhabitants against the Indians, was located at this place. Guilford, 5 miles. Here are two slate quarries and several mills and manufactories. Brattleborough, 6 miles, a flourishing village, is located on the west bank of the Connecticut river ; over which there is a permanent bridge. White stone creek also passes through the place, affording a num- ber of good mill sites. The village contains a bank, the most extensive printing establishment in the state, and several manufactories. Stages pass daily between this place and Boston, Hartford, Albany and Hanover. DuMMERSTON, 5 milcs. Putney, 6 miles. Westminster, 5 miles. The first newspaper printed in Vermont was issued from a press at this place ; though CHARLESTOWN. 433 k was discontinued several years since for want of pat- ronage. The village is located on a beautiful plain on the west bank of the Connecticut ; but it has not im- proved much within the last twenty years. Walpole, N. H. to which a bridge leads, is on the opposite side of the river, and is noticed at page 325. Bellows Falls, on the Vermont side, 4 miles from Walpole. (See p. 324:.) Proceeding up the river over a beautiful plain, Charlestown, N. H. is reached in travelling 8 miles from Bellows Falls. It is handsomely located on the east side of the river, and is a neat village, containing a court house, jail and bank. A fort was built for the defence of this place in 1743, on rising ground south of the church, over which the present street passes. In March, 1747, while the fort was occupied by Capt. Stevens and thirty men, a furi- ous assault was made upon it by a large body of French and Indians, under the command of M. Debeline. The fort being composed of materials which were combusti- ble, the enemy attempted its destruction, by setting a log house and the fences to the windward on fire. To guard against a conflagration, the besieged through great exertions, succeeded in making several subterra- nean passages under the parapet, with an opening at the top of each. From these passages, which were deep enough to protect the men fi-om the enemy's shot, water, taken from a well within the fort, was thrown upon the parapet, and the plan of the enemy frustrated. A sort of mantelet, loaded with dry faggots, set on fire, was then forced towards the fort, accompanied with flaming arrows ; but all to no purpose. Stevens main- tained his position, continued a fire upon the enemy 434 HANOVER. whenever he presented himself, and refused all proposi*^ tions of a surrender. After an assault of three days, and suffering severely in the loss of his men, Debeline withdrew from the siege. None of Stevens' men were killed, and but two wounded. For this brave defence, Sir Charles Knowles, com- mandant of a naval force then in Boston harbor, sent Capt. Stevens an elegant sword. The town was sub- sequently named in honor of Sir Charles. From Charlestown, a stage may be taken daily for Saratoga Springs, passing through Chester, Manches- ter, &c. ; or for Boston, passing through Walpole, Keene, &c. ( See p. 323 to 32S.) Springfield, Vt. on the west side of the river, 5 miles from Charlestown. Weathersfield, 6 miles ; a fine agricultural town- ship. Jarvis' farm, at what is termed Weathersfield Bow (a turn in the river) is considered one of the best in Vermont. Windsor, 7 miles. (iSee^j. 332.) Hartland, 7 miles. Hartford, 7 miles. There are two handsome vil- lages in this town ; one near the junction of the White river, and the other near the junction of the Queechy river with the Connecticut. In both there are several mills and manufactories. From Hartford, the river is crossed to Hanover, (noticed at p. 333,) from which a stage may be taken three times a week for Burlington, Vt. or Boston. tin 19, H 8-8 78 ^ C . 4 ^^ .^' ^ ^"^i^ ■*U-o^ o \^ .. -^ ""^ "^^^ip^/ ^^"'^ */^2^: 4 o^ 0^ •J 4^ LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 0014113616 1