I (y^ \f Hollinger Corp. pH8.5 TT 820 .R7 Copy 1 tide ^risiciUa Jfilet Crocijet poofe A COLLECTION OF BEAUTIFUL DESIGNS IN FILET CROCHET EQUALLY ADAPTED TO CROSS-STITCH BEADS AND CANVAS WITH Wotkin^ directions; BY BELLE ROBINSON PRICE. 25 CENTS PUBLISHED BY tETfje $rt£;ciUa ^uiilifiitjing Company 85 BROAD STREET. BOSTON. MASS. Copyright. 1911, by The PriicilU Publiihing Company. Botlon, Mau. ^ No. 1450. Pillow in Filet Crochet and Cross Stitch Embroidery See Page 5 and Figs. 12, 13, 15, 16, 18 i^ ©ci.A:u»3aoo Ho. ( MmMwWM mil mm Fig. 2 Working Model of Pattern Fig. 3 It will always be one more than a multiple of 3, as 4, 7, io, 13, 16, 19, etc. In the 3d row (following Working Model, Fig. 2, and Block Pattern, Fig. 3) there is, i open, i solid, 2 open, 2 solid, 2 open, i solid, i open. 4th row — One open, i solid, i open, i solid, 2 open, I solid, i open, I solid, i open. 5th row — One open, 2 solid, 4 open, 2 solid, i open. 6th row — Like 5th. 7th row — Like 4th. 8th row — Like 3d. 9th row — Like 2d. loth row — Like 1st. Always remembering to make 5 chain for the turn in the square work. This makes an open mesh, and it is always much better to have any design with at least one row of open meshes on all four sides. It is really quite worth while to make a block like this Fig. 2 and find out if it is square. When doing a long strip or band, it may not be so essential, although the work is prettier; but when making a square block, it should be square. Working Model, Fig. 4, is a triangular block, made after the pattern. Fig. 5. After making nine open meshes, use the t c (with two loops), and join to make the last mesh a triangle. To turn for the 2d row, make 3 rather loose or 4 quite tight chain-stitches and join with d c to make another triangular mesh. This is the first of 4 d c that form a solid mesh. Following the pattern — i open, i solid, i open, i solid, i open, I solid, I open. (Turn with 5 chain at this end.) 3d row — Seven open meshes, I triangular mesh. Fig. 3 Patternof Fig. 2 Fig 4 Working Model of Pattern Fig. 5 4th row — Turn with triangle, x open, 2 solid, i open, i solid, i open. Turn with $ chain. 5th row — Three open, i solid, i open, I triangle. 6th row — Turn with triangle, 2 open, I solid, I open. 7th row — Turn with 5, 3 open, i triangle, etc. In Filet, it is a rare e.xception that has not one row, or more, of open meshes outside the design, and we should follow the same rule in Filet Crochet. The edge of a medallion or insert is usually covered with single crochet, three stitches over each chain of two and four stitches over each triangular mesh. This corresponds nicely with the buttonhole-stitch with which the netted medallion is invariably finished. Figure 6 is a model of the border of Doily, Fig. 22, showing how to mitre the corner in a way similar to Fig. 4. The two outer rows give the method used to finish the Centrepiece, No. 1452. Figure 7 is the model showing the heart of flower in the corner of Luncheon Cloth, No. 1454. A chain of five is made to cover the space of two open meshes. In estimating the size a pattern will fill, with the various threads, it may be helpful to know that No. TOO D. M. C. Crochet Cotton makes very good fabric, ten meshes to the inch; No. 50. eight meshes to the inch; No. 30, six meshes; and No. 10, between four and five meshes to the inch. Individual workers vary some, but this is a good average, and represents the work here illustrated. When crocheting for any length of time, and working as tightly as possible, the fingers may become chafed with the thread or needle. To avoid this, a good plan is to use chamois-skin glove fingers wherever they are needed. Bits of chamois skin may be sewed to fit whichever thumb or finger suffers most. The right-hand thumb, which holds the needle, and the first and second fingers of the left hand, which carry the thread and stop the point of the needle, were all so protected in doing much of the finished work in this book. ■Mthough the crocheting, when in process, can be kept immaculate, by powdering the hands, and keeping the work in a tightly covered bo.x; when not in process, yet it is very much improved by laundering. This should be done by careful squeezing, rather than rubbing, in good soap-suds, and rinsing well without twisting the work. When it is soiled, dampen and lay it on a flat surface and rub soap well into it with a sinall bristle brush. Washing shrinks the thread until it is consid- erably smaller than the original measure, ing. face downward, between two pieces of cheese-cloth, on a thickly padded board (when not quite dry), will restore it to the exact size first measured. ^ Careful fin- ishing with the iron next the wrong side, flattens the work and — y brings out the design beautifully, pattern of Fig. 4 Ir Filet Crochet The definition frequently given of Filet Crochet is, " crocheting in imitation of Filet." While that is true, yet it is, in a way, misleading. The word ." imitation " may be objected to because it usu- ally carries with it a meaning of inferiority. Al- , wiiys, a substitute, a pretence, a sham comes to mind when an imitation of the " real " is mentioned. Rather let us define it as " Crocheting in the style of Filet," for if Filet Crochet is rightly done it is no less a " real " piece of work than the Filet which it is like. It requires no less skill, no less care, and perhaps no less time to crochet a good piece of Filet than it does to net the fabric and darn or weave or embroider through it the pattern. Those who have done both can testify to the truth of this. Our grandmothers did more or less crocheting, using this principle, so that it is nothing new; and yet, possibly, it has remained for this twentieth century to bring forward and perfect the work, adapting it to more uses and larger designs, and carrying out the designs in finer threads. It is, like Irish Crochet, at its very best when done with fine thread and the very finest needle. And yet it may be done with coarse thread and. a suitable needle and produce a very handsome piece of work, always providing that the crocheting is firm and evenly done. MATERIALS The materials used may be any spool thread that is at hand, or one may select any good crochet cotton. Of the pieces shown in this book, the most of the work was done with " D. M. C." Crochet Cotton (Cordonnet Special), Nos. lO, 30. 50, and 100. For No. 10 crochet cotton, the crochet hook should be about No. 10, not coarser. For No. 30, a No. 12 hook, and anything finer can best be done with No. 14. Patterns readily suggest themselves for simple bits of work, after one has started the crocheting, but for larger pieces and more elaborate designs, any block pattern is easily followed. The collection of patterns given in tliis book is culled from a variety of sources, and is equally adapted to Filet Crochet, Filet Erode, Cross-stitch, and various sorts of Canvas-work. Having procured the needle and thread and pat- tern fa simple equipment!), one is ready for the lesson. EXPLANATION OF TERMS D c — double crochet; having a stitch on the needle, one loop over the needle, one loop through the chain or top of stitch below, one loop through two on the needle, one loop through the remain- ing two. S c — single crochet, a stitch on the needle, a loop under the chain below, a loop through the two on the needle. This is used only in finishing edges, not in the designs. T c — treble crochet, a stitch on the needle, two loops over the needle, one loop through the work, then crochet off two and two. The first thing to do, is to find out whether one crochets " square." Many people do this natur- ally; more, we are inclined to~ believe, do not. Much time is saved if this is one's habit. Find out in this way; copy Working Model, Fig. I. Notice there are ten meshes, then the foundation chain will be ten times 3, plus I, plus 5 to turn, altogether 36 chain. Turn, join with a d c in the 9th stitch from the needle, which completes the first open mesh. The following nine meshes are each made with 2 chain, 1 d c in the 3d chain-stitch. Take up two threads of the chain when crochet- ing the first row. Crochet S chain-stitches to turn, join with a d c in the top of the next d c below, taking up two threads. Proceed in this way until ten rows are finished, and if the piece is square, one may be sure of crocheting easily. If the piece is longer from right to left, then either the chain-stitches and top of d c are too loose, or the d c is drawn up too short. In making the d c pull the top tightly, but do not pull the whole d c too short. It is easier to apply the remedy in a little piece than in a large one, where a very little difference in the tension makes a big difference in the out- come. If, however, the greater length is in the other direction, the probability is that the d c is drawn out too long. Then try Working Model, Fig. 2, with the same number of stitches. The first row is ten open meshes, like Fig. I. The second row is made with 5 chain to turn, i d c in d c below, eight solid meshes and one open mesh. A solid mesh is formed by a d c over the d c, 2 d c over the chain, I d c over the next d c, making 4 d c if it is a single solid mesh. If othei solid meshes follow then there is added 2 d c for each chain and i d c over d c. The number of d c in any number of solid meshes is equal to 3 times the number of meshes with I d c in addition. ^5^*^^^^*7 >Jh>t»Kfc!fc»«* mm'i$-jMkMM-'^ 4 «• ;# ^v^wV^'^"^ %^ $^ mmMM'jMM'M0 4^] ^mmii *w«««»S55 aiiit»»»»^; Fig. I. Working Model of Filei Crochet, lo raeshes square. the edge around each square with s c, 3 stitches over each chain of 2. The cross-stitched blocks arc cut a big scam larger than the crocheted blocks, machine-stitclied just outside the turn, and are overcast in addition to keep them from fraying, as a seam in Hardanger cloth is always treacherous. Then the blocks are overcast together tightly, cross-stitched blocks and crocheted blocks alternating. The pillow-top is ready for the back, wliich must be overcast to the top. No other seam is possible along the edges of the crocheting. The color used for cross-stitch was old rose. The effect of this " patchwork " determined its selection as Frontispiece. Fig. 10. Conventional Flower Doily This doily presents a problem nut unlike tlie proverbial " titting of a round peg in a square hole," and there is added the puzzling task of crocheting to a foundation where there is no chain. 'Tis true Fig. 10. Flower Doily, see Fig. ^3 one might break the thread and add a chain, but it can be accomplished with one thread, as was done in this case. Number 100 D. M. C. Crochet Cotton was used, and the doily measured 6% inches in diameter. The crochet needle required is No. 14. To make tlie doily, start with 12 meshes, that is, chain 36 plus i plus 5 stitches equals 42, d c in gth stitch and make 12 open meshes in the ist row. 2d row — Chain 12, plus 5 to turn, d c in gth st and make 4 open meshes (it is easy to carry out chain at the last end of a row, to widen at the first of the succeeding row), 12 solid meshes. then make 4 open meshes a^ follows: Two chain, i double treble (d t) (3 loops) and join this d t at the top of the 1st row. Three times more, make this square mesh and join each time on a line with the top of the 1st row, forming 4 open meshes. At the end of each added mesh, the needle is left at the top of the mesh, ready to make another or to turn. This peculiar method is necessary in widening at the end of a row where there is nothing to crochet to, and three sides of a mesh must be made as one proceeds. To narrow, simply omit one or more meshes at the last end of the row. At the first end, draw the stitch on the needle the length of a mesh and slip in the top of d c. Repeat this for each mesh that is to be omitted, then make 5 chain for an open mesh and l)rocecd according to the design, l"ig. 43 on page 22. The loose threads left in this way are nicely covered when the edge is finished with s c. When the last row of twelve open meshes is finished, make one chain-stitch and cover the edge with 3 s c over each single side of a mesh, and 5 s c where two sides of a mesh form the edge. The final caution is to make the crocheting square. 72 meshes Fig. II. See Fig. 36 9 meshes Filet Crocliet is so simple, so easily understood, there is nothing intricate about it; but the fact can- not be overemphasized that great care must be taken to do the work evenly and rather tightly. When one can be sur^ of the right proportion between the chain-stitcH and the double crochet, that one is tight and the other just loose enough, then the worker who can crochet rapidly will make the best work. It becomes almost automatic, and Fig. 6 Working Model, Border, Fig. 22 Fig. 7 Working Mode], Heart of Flower, Fig. 27 the result is a beautiful uniformity throughout the whole piece, whereas if one must, in a labored way, pull each stitch with a distinct effort, the work is very likely to look pinched and drawn. No. 1450. Pillow in Filet Crochet and Cross Stitch This pillow, shown on page 2, is composed of twenty-five blocks, each four inches square. Twelve blocks are of Hardanger cloth, embroid- ered with cross-stitch, in D. M. C. Stranded Cotton. Two threads of the cotton are used. For the de- signs see Fig. 12 and Fig. 13 on page 7. Thirteen blocks are in Filet Crochet of D. M. C. Crochet Cotton No. 50. Three different designs are used, " The Swan," " The Dragon," and a conventional figure, see Fig. 15, Fig. 16, and Fig. 18, on page 7. These blocks are 33 meshes, requiring 105 chain stitches for the foun- dation chain, this includes 5 chain to turn. Join in the 9th stitch from the needle with a d c. Two chain-stitches separate the d c, making an open mesh. .(M- ways at the turn 5 chain are made for the first open mesh. Two rows of open meshes are made (in the " Swan " block 3 rows are made) before beginHing the design. In the 3d row of the " Dragon " make 2 open, 2 solid, I open, i solid, 6 open, 3 solid, the remainder of the row open. Turn, make 18 open, I solid, I open, 2 solid, 6 open, 3 solid, 2 open, etc. The designs can be followed back and forth in this way until the squares are completed. 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See No. 1450 33 meshes f „, ,g g^^ pj„ ,^j^ ■ BB BB aa BBB BBB B ■■■ ■■BBB BBBBBB BB B iwiiiiiii m ii m iiii i ii« 33 meshes Fig. 14 12 meshes FiG. 17 BBSSSSBS""'bB BS""SaSS&BS bbBSSBBB bb'S B'aa BBSSSBS ■■ ■■■ BB BB ■■■ 1 BB a BBB BB BB BBB B B SSS!a-:-BB. ' ' aS:-:-BSS8 BBB a BBB BBB 1 BBB a BBB B BB aa B BBB ■ BB BBB a BBB B BBB BB B BB BBBB B B BBBB BB B BB aa a a aaa b a aa aa BB BB a BBB a BB BB a BBB a aa aa a aaa a aaa a aaa bbb a bbb aaai b bbb bbb b bb b as a a8B" .: a. -Saa a B BB BBB aa aa bbb a 31 meshes FiG. l8. See No. 1450 33 meshei Figs. 16, 17, 18. Guest Towels These guest towels are of i6-inch huckaback, and 30 inches long. The thread used is No. 30 D. M. C. Crochet Cotton. One ball is sufficient for each towel. Figure 19 — Insertion, at one end, 16 meshes wide, with letters 14 meshes high (see Figs. 114 and 126), and a 5-mesh insertion (see Working Model, Fig. 6) at the other. Figure 20 — A band, 11 meshes wide, with letters 7 meshes high (Fig. 128), finishes this guest towel at one end, and at the other a band 5 meshes wide. (See Insertion for Baby's Pillow, No. 145 1.) Figure 21 — This insertion is commenced with fee. Fig. 19. Guest Towel, see Figs. 114 and 126 9 meshes (for pattern see border, Fig. 59), then widened to 18 meshes through the centre where the initials, 14 meshes wide (Fig. 114), are made. Then the band is continued 9 meshes wide to the end, reversing the pattern at the beginning. Tlie other end of the towel is finished with a band 4 meshes wide and readily followed from the cut. Fig. 22. Doily Two medallions of 23 meshes (Fig. 98) and two of 25 meshes (Fig. 105) are inset in this 11 -inch doily. The edge is shown at Fig. 6, page 5. This re- quires one ball of No. 100 D. M. C. Crochet Cotton, and one-third yard of fine huckaback, 24 inches wide, will make two doilies, useful and pretty. Fig. 20. Guest Tdwel. SteFig. r^s I ( Fig. 21. Guest Towel, seepig. ioi Fig. 22. Doily, see Figs. 6, 9s, 105 No. 1451. Baby Pillow This daintily embroidered pillow of linen sup- ports a hollow square of Filet Crochet insertion to frame " the baby's face." The centre of the pillow is reserved for that decoration or use. Tlie insertion is made of No. lOO D. M. C. Crochet Cotton. For the design, see Fig. 32, page 17. It is 100 meshes square and 20 meshes wide, measuring 10 inches each way and 2 inches wide. A little more than one-quarter of the design is given, the rest being reversed. It is started at the lower left-hand corner with 306 stitches (includ- ing the turn). One row of open meshes, turn, i open, 98 solid, i open. Turn, i open, i solid, 96 open, I solid, i open, etc. When 20 rows are fin- ished, turn, and follow the design up the right-hand side, 20 meshes wide, until 79 rows are done. Break the thread and begin at the inside of the frame, 20 meshes from the left edge and carry up the left side 80 rows. The 80th row will end at the inside corner of upper left-hand. Do not break the thread, but chain 179 and make i d c in the 1st stitch of the right-hand side. Finish this 80th row across according to the pattern and make 20 rows entirely across, reversing the first 20 rows. Four yards of insertion are required for the ruffle. This insertion is 5 meshes wide. In the 1st and 2d rows the centre mesh is solid. The 3d, 4th, and 5th rows are all open. Repeat these 5 rows for the length required. The pillow ap- pears larger, but is only 16 inches square. No. 1451. Baby Pillow. Sce Fig. 32, page 17 9 No. 1452. Centrepiece in Filet Crochet and Cross Stitch This novel centrepiece, of No. lo D. M. C. Cro- chet Cotton, is made somewhat after the fashion of the crocheted frame in the Baby Pillow, No. 1451. The hollow square is partly filled with a figure in the form of a Greek cross, leaving four openings about 4 inches square. These are filled with cross stitched, hemstitched blocks of Har- danger cloth. The crocheting (see Fig. 23) is started at "A" with a chain of 276 stitches, making 90 meshes. It may be difficult, in turning the work back and forth, to distinguish right and left, but if a short thread is left at the beginning of the foundation chain, that is to be considered the left side. When 16 rows of the pattern are completed, at " B," the work is carried on 16 meshes wide until 21 rows of the right-hand side are finished. Leav- ing the ball of thread at that point, start another thread at " C," and carry this band up until 20 rows are finished. Cut and fasten the thread. Start at " D " and finish 20 rows of this band, cut and fasten the thread. Then take up the thread left at " E," chain 62 stitches, follow the pattern across the middle band, chain 62, follow the pattern across the left band. This completes the 2rst row of the central band and left side. Make 16 rows entirely across the work. Starting from " F," make 21 rows, 16 meshes No. 1452. Centrepiece in Filet Crochet and Cross Stitch Embroidery See Figs. 23 and 53 10 wide, leaving the thread at " H " as at " E." Start another thread at " X," make 20 rows of the upper central band, cut and fasten the thread. At " XX " start another thread, make 20 rows of right-hand side, cut and fasten the thread. Take up the thread left at " H," chain 62, make I row across centre band, chain 62, make i row across right-hand side. Sixteen rows of the pat- tern will complete the frame. Make the two outer rows of Fig. 6, page 5, for the edge. The cross stitch design is Fig. 52, page 23, and when the blocks are overcast in their places, the centrepiece is finished. The cross stitch is done with stranded cotton, and the undivided cotton is used because the crocheting is quite heavy. Upon comparing the centrepiece and the design, at first glance it may appear that the design ha? only one row of open meshes for outside margin, while the centrepiece has two rows. But the second of these is part of the border, ist row — Fasten the thread at the top of a d c, make an open mesh (5 chain, i d c), * 8 chain, i d c on last d c, I d c in next d c of centrepiece, 2 chain, i d c in next d c of centrepiece *. Repeat from * to *. 2d row — Cover with s c, 7 or 8 over each scallop and 2 or 3 along the meshes. Different ways in which this handsome square may be used will suggest themselves, and one may also use the border and the cross independ- ently. Omitting the fancy purl edge shown in the illustration, a number of the squares might be joined together to form a counterpane, or the border alone could be set diamond fashion in the centre and enclose an initial or monogram. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 III! 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 mil 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 I M M M 1 1 M M in M 1 1 1 M 1 M M 1 M 1 1 1 1 1 II 1 1 1 1 1 Mr ■bb«- - aaa aa ■ aa a aa aa aaaaaa BB a BaBa. :• -a a = 88- a aa "laBa " aaaaaa ■a BBB a Ba "Sa" = -tt BB.BB ■ 1 Hfm- Baa -88 aaaa a BB a BBBBB p ^m aa aaa ! 8. ■ n a BBB aaaaaa L H aaa aa a a ■a BBBI a BBI aai aa ■Bl aa Bl aa ia:B aaaa aa 8-.8 .8 ■ ^n 1 aaa a aaa IB BB BBB Bl ■ BBBBBB a a I "a ■:—: ..■ aaaa ■ 88" a88»! 1:1 ■aaaa ^ 1 1 ^^M 1 ^H BB I a ■ ■ aaa 1 aaa ai a aaa aaa a aa aaaaa 1 aaaaaa 1 IB Bl ■ a BBBB aa Bl 1 a a ai aaaa laa aaa ai aaa aa ■ aaaai IB a B BB aaai 1 aaaaa aa 1 aaaa ai a aaaaaa 1 IB aaaaai aa a aa ■ bBBb "b: aaaai 1 aa aaaaa aa -1 aaa aaaa a a aa a ..a a a aaaaaa aaaaa a aa bbbb aaa g -C a BBB aaaa aaaa aaaa a aaa a ::i -1 aSSS! >-iei!| ■ aaaa a ..a J H ff" XX 8 .8 BB aaa BBBBBB a 8 1 a 1 1 I 1 u IB aaaa • 8 :s ■: a" a a a. 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B aaa a a a BBBB a Bl aa a aaa V 1 IB a BBBI a ■aaa BB aaaa ■a "s: : a aa a bHS b SSSSS" ■B aa aa aa aa aaBaa aaa aa aa aa aa aa a! a a aa aa 8 a a a 8 SH" — bbB IB a BBBB a BB aaa a aBaa aBa 8 a aa a a ■a a aa ai I Bl 1 M 1 M 1 1 FT BB BB a ■m ■a aa ■a a a 1 M 1 1 1 •■■ ... ... . 88a 8.8 SB"'" aii ■BB BBBB E C a B aa J ■a a a ; ■■■ BBI a 1 a ■ a aa .:s . a aa a BB ■ ■ BB BBB a aa aaa aa K" ■ aa a aaa a a ■ BB aa a a IB ■B ■: a 1; a aa ■a aaaa D ±m laaai BBBI BBI IB a aaa aaa aaaaa al B a aaa a BBB a aai r^ aaa K !"a... ! aa a aaaa a 1 1 W M 1 li^ 1 88 8 BB a ."S ■bbS." ■ bS"S a a aa aa I BUM IB! aaaaai I ■ ■ ■ aaaa ■■B ■aaaaa a ■ aaa a ■ 44^ J 1 ■ B" .SB-— ""SSS! ■!■■ ■■:b:s""" Hi 1 1 1 LU 1 1 1 UJ liliU-+^1J->^^B-4-l ■ ■■■ ■ ■ ■■ »B"":. pss.s =sa - ! bbSSSB ia aS'SS: aa aa a a aa a B_ ■- "B!" B.BB- _B""B___B"" -B ■ ■■ ■ ■ a a ai laaai a aa aaaaa ■aa aaa ai "^"^^^■"^^■■^^^^■"rTTT ■a a a aa aaa ■ ■■1 1 aaa « IBB IB a aaa bbb BBBBBa ■B aaa ■ aa aai 8"a8 "8-8; Ba 8. IB ai 1 a aaaa : a- B:aaa: "". ■ . _aBB aa ai a a BBBBB a aa bb ;:. " bBBb" a "Ba:a bB 8888 8- .-" BaaaBa 'a 8 ■B BB aaa a aaaa aa ■ aaa a aaa ■ BBI ■■__■■■! ■■ II IMIHl aa bbbbbb Ll.i_Ll±^J_L aaa aa a a ' bB" ■■■-_■■ ■■■ a : Kb aa aa ' ■ ■■ ■ aaa aa ■aaaaaaaai ■ .aaaaaaaaS; aaaa aa ■ BBaaa 1 aa a a laBaaaaaa -BB b-b5- aSBSa -aaaaaS' B BB a a a bbb ■ ■ iialaB i BBI iSaa! Fig. 23. Centrepiece Design, sce No. 145^, page 10 • II 90 meshes No. 1453. Peacock Pillow One large insert of Filet Crochet, ninety-eight meshes square, forms the centre of this very hand- some pillow. The material of the pillow is Hardanger cloth, ■which lends itself so nicely to cross stitch. The border or frame surrounding the crochet being of that old, lately revived, much prized style of work. This is so fine and so well worked that it appears to be woven in the cloth. For the cross stitch design see Fig. 25 and Fig. 40. It is done with stranded cotton. The square of Filet Crochet, made of No. 100 D. M. C. Crochet Cotton, re- quires a foundation chain of 300, that includes 5 to turn. Two rows of open meshes, then the design. 3d row — Fifty-two open, i solid, 45 open. Turn. 4th row — Forty open, i solid, 4 open, 2 solid, 4 open, I solid, 46 open. Turn. 5th row — Thirty-one open, i solid, 5 open, I solid, 8 open, 2 solid, 3 open, 2 solid, 3 open, 2 solid, 40 open, etc. Both feet being started, the design (Fig. 24) can be easily followed. When the square is finished cover the edge with s c, 3 over each chain. Over- cast it to the cloth, a generous seam of which is machine-stitched, overcast, and turned back. B, Fig. 25, is the centre of the cross stitch design. No. 1453. Pillow in Filet Crochet and Cross Stitch Embroidery See Figs, i-i, 25 and 40 Fig. 24. Design of Filet Crochet for Pillow No. 1453. 9S meshes Fig. 25. Border DESIG.N OF Pillow No. 1453. See corner, Fig. 40 17 meshes 13 No. 1454. Luncheon Cloth The combination of a corner of Filet Crochet with Venetian cut-work makes a very pretty result in this luncheon cloth. The corner is crocheted of No. loo D. M. C. Crochet Cotton; one ball will make a corner. The design is Fig., 27, page 15. In this triangle, the principle, seen at Fig. 4, Working Model, page 4, is used. One hundred and two meshes is the size, requir- ing a foundation chain of 312, including turn. Make loi open meshes, one triangular mesh with treble (two loops over the needle). In turning at the diagonal make 3 loose or 4 tight chain-stitches, and join with a d c — 17 open, I solid, 23 open, i solid. 36 open, 6 solid, 7 open, 3 solid, 6 open. Turn with 5 chain, etc., following the design. Where the long meshes are shown, in the heart of the flower, make 5 chain (see Fig. 7, Working Model, page 5). Where so long a bias is to be cut in the linen, it is best to mark outside the insert and machine- stitch 1-32 of an inch outside that line. A running line, the same distance outside the stitching, will give a good body for the buttonhole, to which the insert is to be overcast. The cloth is 48 inches square, the hemstitched hem 1% inches wide, and it requires one-half dozen D. M. C. Coton Floche No. 8 to do the embroidery. The Venetian cut- work scrolls are very easily and quickly made. No. 1454. Luncheon Cloth in Filet Crochet and Venetian Cut Work See page r5, Fig. 27 14 i'H""K :B« B-i:""naiiirH""n nni »-:i""aaHHrB"" iitirri II I 11 [TriTl II IT M II I I IITTTTTI TTTTfl I M il I llf I M I TITIT'TTTIITTTITTI flTI'ITTTITTfl fliril' f-SHI": Fig. 27. Design FOR Luncheon Cloth, No. 1454, page 14. see Fig. 7, page; 15 No. 1455. Pillow in Filet Crochet and Eyelet Work This pillow of linen is beautifully embroidered, and inset with one large and eight small medallions of Filet Crochet. The larger medallion is SJj inches square, 54 meshes. For design, see Fig. 28, page 17. The smaller medallions are 3 inches square, 31 meshes. For designs, see Fig. 29 and Fig. 30, page i;. One ball of D. M. C. Crochet Cotton, Xo. 100, will make the nine medallions. The embroidery should be finished tirst and the linen laundered, after which the medallions (laun- dered) are to be overcast to the buttonholed edge. Lay the medallions in place, mark lightly (with a hard pencil) outside each one. Make one line of closely run stitches about 1-32 of an inch outside the pencil mark, a second line the same distance outside the first. Buttonhole over these two lines with the edge of the buttonhole on the inner side. Cut close to the work and overcast the medallion in this little frame. The buttonhole should be done with the thread used in the embroidery. D. M. C. Coton Floche, No. 12, is good for that, or any other embroidery cotton that one prefers. No. 1455. Pillow in Filet Crochet and Eyelet Work.. 16 See page 17, Figs. zS, 29 and 30 Fig. 33. See top of Bag, page T9 10 meshes Fig. 30. See page 16 31 meshes FiG. 34 25 X 64 meshes 17 Figs. 35, 36. Towel with Filet Crochet This towel, or scarf, of 24-inch huckaback is trimmed at one end with three initialed medallions, 31 meshes square, connected by a band of 3 open meshes, the width of the towel. The initials are 25 meshes high, from alphabet, Fig. Ill, page 42. An insertion, 13 meshes wide, with name (9 meshes high), repeated, forms the trimming of the other end; see page 6, Fig. 11. One ball of No. 50 D. M. C. Crochet Cotton and iJ4 yards 24-inch huckaback are the materials. Fig. 41. Baby's Bonnet This charming bonnet was made of No. 100 D. M. C. Crochet Cotton, with a No. 14 crochet needle. The directions are as follows: Chain 6, join in a ring. 1st round — Twelve s c in the ring. 2d round — Two s c in each stitch (making 24). 3d round — * Two s c in ist, i s c in each of next 2 *. Repeat from * to * (making 32). 4th round — * Two s c in 1st, I s c in 2d *. Re- peat from * to * (making 48). 5th round — * Two s c in 1st, I s c in 2d *. Repeat from * to * (making 72). 6th round — Five chain, i d c in 2d stitch below, * 2 chain, i d c in 2d stitch below *. Repeat from * to * (making 36 open meshes). "th round — One solid mesh (made by 3 chain, 3 d c), 2 open meshes. Repeat all around. 8th round — One open, I solid, * 2 open, I solid, *. Repeat from * to *. Qth round — One d c over each d c, 3 d c over each chain. loth, nth, I2th, 13th, 14th, 15th. i6th, 17th. i8th, rounds — Like 7th, 8th, and 9th. 19th, 20th, 2ist rounds — Open meshes all around. This completes the crown. 22d row — Turn, with 5 chain, make 19 open, i solid, 5 open, I solid, 15 open, i solid, 5 open, i solid, 15 open, i solid, 5 open, i solid, 15 open, i solid, 5 open, i solid, 7 open (making 99 meshes). 23d row — Turn, make 7 open, 2 solid, 3 open, 2 solid, IS open, 2 solid, 3 open, 2 solid. 15 open, 2 solid, 3 open, 2 solid, 15 open, 2 solid, 3 open, 2 solid, ig open. 24th row — Turn, and since two points of each iJJ«y««tireMJJ- Fig. 35. Towel. See Alphabet, page 42, Fig. Ill Fig. 36. Towel. See Alphabet, page 6, Fig. h 18 of four stars are started, they may easily be finished from the illustration, being sure to start the front row of alternating stars in the 36th row, the same row that finishes the first four stars. The 36th row follows — Turn, make 8 open meshes, i solid, 5 open, I solid, 4 open, i solid, 5 open, i solid, 4 open, I solid, 5 open, i solid, 4 open, i solid. 5 open, I solid, 4 open, i solid. 5 open, i solid, 4 open, I solid, 5 open, i solid, 4 open, i solid, 5 open, I solid, 4 open, i solid, 5 open, i solid, 7 open. Finish around the edge with 3 s c over each chain, making a picot of 4 chain after every 6th stitch. Fig. 42. Hand Bag This little bag measures 5 inches by 6]-^ inches, and is made of No. 50 D. M. C. Crochet Cotton. The design used was Fig. 73 for the body and Fig- 33 for the top of 8 rows above the beading. Each side was crocheted separately, and the edges were held together and covered with s c. Figure 73 is 43 meshes, one more was added to each side, and the size could be varied at one's pleasure. Make 45 meshes, 141 chain, d c in 9th stitch from needle, etc. The beading is made of double trebles (3 loops) separated by 2 chain. Around the top it is finished with 6 s c, picot of 5. repeated. The cords arc chains of No. 2 D. M. C. Crochet Cotton, 30 inches long, about 300 stitches. And balls of No. 2 are crocheted on the ends. Fig. 37 15 X 17 meshes Fig. 37}4- 7 meshes Fig. 38. 18x30 meshes A li!;;-;:!::!;;-;! dl||!i'!:i!|]H: Fig. 39 Fig. 40 27 meshes Fig. 41. Baby's Bonnet See page iS Corner of Fig. 25 19 Fig. 42. Sm.all Hand Bag See Fig."!. 33 and 75 No. 1456. Bedspread in Filet Crochet Use Syi lbs. of carpet chain and a steel hook to suit the thread. One-quarter of the spread is given, half the width and half the length, in the pattern, No. 1456, offered at 10 cents. Begin the work in the lower right-hand corner with a chain of 784, and 5 to turn, to make 261 meshes. The pattern has 259 meshes, but one more on each side must be allowed to make a perfect copy of the spread. Two rows of open meshes are made before the design is started. Follow the first row of the design to the centre mesh, which is the last in the pattern. Reverse this half row, but do not double the centre mesh, and this will complete the 3d row of work. Begin the 4th row at the right and work to the centre, then reverse for the last half of the row. IMake each row in this way. No. 1456. Bedspread in Filet Crochet No. 1457. Bedspread in Filet Crochet and Relief Crochet Fourteen pounds of white carpet chain and a steel crochet needle are required to make this very handsome bedspread. The width is 243 meshes, which takes 729 chain and 5 to turn. Part of the design is in Relief Crochet. The Relief block is represented by a dot in the pattern. No. 1457, which is offered by the Priscilla Publishing Co., for 10 cents. This block or knob is made of 5 d c worked in the space of one mesh, the needle is taken out and put in the first of the five, and the last loop taken through, make I chain and i d c over d c. Bend the S d c either toward or away from you, according to which side, the right or wrong side, is uppermost. The raised work is very effective. No. 1457. Bedspread in Filet Crochet and Relief Crochet 21 Fig. 45A 9me.sht:s Fig. 45 B 9 meshes Fig. 46 12 X 23 meshes ■I S!SSSS ■■HWHI IB ■ •■ ■■■ ■■■ SS"! ! ■:■:: ■■ ■■ !■■ ■ ■■ i:b: 'sa -Hs 88 88s: ■1 n ■ ■■■ ■ 1 in ■ ■ ■■■ ■ R ■ ■■■ ■ ■ ■■■ I ■ ■■ ■ I ■ ■ ■ ■■■ ■1 ■■ ■■ ■I ■ ■ IB ■■ ■■■■ ■1 ■ ■ ■ ■ :; ■■>■ ■■ :: ■ ■ g ■■■ ■ ■ ■ 1 »BSs: ■■■■■■ ■■ ■ ■Si ■ ■ ■"■' '■■■ ■■""■■■ ■ ■■■ ■ ■■■ ■ ■■ ■■ 1 1 ■ ■■ ■ ■■ ■■■■ ■■ ■■■1 IB I ■ 1. . »»" : !■■ ■■■■■ ■ ■ ■■ ■■ ■ ■ : B\ ■ 1 ■ ■1 ■1 SSR- ~»! : ■ ■ ■ ■■■': ■■ 8 ■■1 1 "s: ■1 !■■■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■I- ■ -B-Si ■1 n ■ ■ ■ ■■■ ■■ !■■■ ■ ■ ■-! ■ " ,!B. ■ ■■ !. "88! ■1 ■■■■■■ ■■■ BB ■ ■ ■ ■ ■■1 ■■■■ 8Si 88! iz' ■: ;:: s:. ■S" ■■■1 ■■■■ ■! I Si s. " ■■■■■- 1 IB ■ ■ ■BS! !88 ■■■ ■ "iSSi ISSSS ■ M ■ ■ ■ ■■■■ ■■■■ ■■ ■■ ■■■■■ ■1 ■I I. : ■■ ■■ ■ ■ ■■ '■■■! . ■■!-■. ! 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Fig. 6d, A, B, E, , D, F, is one-half of Lower s Side Border. 25 U 1 1 1 1 U 1 II 1 LI 1 1 1 II 1 U 1 i I 1 1 1 M 1 U li ■ ' ' 1 1 M 1 1 1 II 1 y 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ■ M 1 J 1 M ■ 1 1 H ■■ ■■■■■ 1 MVIHHB ■_L ■ ■■■■■■ TT f ..ffl 1 1 T| nWiL 1 i , s iiW pM ■ T^^^r ■ 1 - rTP" ' 1 1 K, 1 1 jj L ^ 1 1 i^rr^ r 1 K 1 ■ r fI ■ Mmt >ll 1 1 II- w^tt 1 ■ ■w '1 ■■ I ■ 1 ■ 1 1 1 1 1 He T T WT T ■ ii r 1 1 ■ ■ ^^H ^n ^m ^^m^"m ^I^K ■■^^H ■ 1 1 1 IVt rWr PTTffffl ^ iWVH r^ ■ 1 1 1 ■ 1 TT^nr 1 1 I r 1 1 I I W 1 \ m \ P 1- \ m \ 1 ■ H H n n n LiiliiJJ n I P _r ■ "■^ 1 1 1 ■■ :Mi 1 1 i Fig. 58 Deer Hunt XX 104 X 1S6 meshes; 26 Fig. 58. Deer Hunt The " Deer Hunt," Fig. 58, is completed by join- ing pages 26 and 27 at X and XX. The border of the " Boar Hunt," on pages 24 and 25, may be applied to this, using only the narrow design, which is 4 meshes wide, and 2 meshes margin outside. And there may be added to this the whole border on page 29, which is the right size for either design. This border is given in three parts, the half of X upper border, the half of lower border, and side border which tits exactly between the two. They are lettered to join together. The 6-mesh border should be placed directly outside the 104 by 186 meshes on this and the previous page, then the broader border just outside that, which is 116 by 198 meshes. The measure outside the whole is 176 by 258 meshes. There should be no difficulty in adding cither border to either design. XX Fig. 58. — Continued. For Border see page 24 and page 29. 27 ™::::::-::::::::™:::::::::::::::::::™::::::::::=::::-:::::l~^ ■a a aaa la a B a" "S! ■■■ S5^ "I ■" " "' !S" "SS ■■■ ■■■ "a BBB a J ■■■■ BB B BB B B ; a"a ■S-a'aa" "aa-aaB: a'a "BaaVaS: ."a -Baa-aaBB - aa a a aaa aaa aa a aa a a - i^^H 1 ^W = :W=W W MHii4-ilH-WI^^ . as. ,8S _.Ba 8 - - - fl-y- - ||slj| I :: ::::::i: :::;:::: :::::::jj||-jj::: ■a" a a aa aa aaaaa BBS aaa. 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"B B- 1 = ^ IB ■ ■ ■ I :■«:=. ■ s. ^ " -■: : ■: ■ ■ ■ ■ s ■ ■ ■ ■ s ■■ ■■ ■■ s ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ 1: 1 — :!! ■ 1 ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ : ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ I ■ ■ ■ ■■■ ■■■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■■ ■ ■■■■ ■■■■ B'S 1 ■ ■ ■ ■ I ■ ■■ ■■■■I ■■■■■ 1 ■ ■ 1 ■ ■■ ■■■ ■■■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■■ ■ ■ ■ ■I 1 ■ ■ 1 ■ ■■ ■■■ ■■■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■■ ■■ s ■ ■ ■ ■ i 1 a s : ■1 Si : :s.i si» si: ■■■■ jSH > ■ I ■■ ■■■■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ 1 ■ ■ 8 ■ I ! ■ 8 ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ 8 " 8..: 8 j. ■■■ 8.... Fig. iio bl X S5 meshes 41 Fig- 112 l8 meshes high 42 4> The Priscilla Irish Crochet Book (1909) — A book that includes all the stitches and backgrounds used in Irish Crochet, with full directions for work- ing, together with a large assortment of beautiful floral motifiy all of which have full directions and can be arranged in numberless attractive ways for the many purposes for which Irish crochet is used. Illustrations of motifi and finished work arc remarkably attractive and of such size as to be easily copied. Original de- signs not found in other manuals on this subject make this new book doubly valuable. Price, 25 cents. The Priscilla Tatting Book (1909) — This book contains some of the best work that has appeared in The Modern Priscilla, as well as many new designs never before published. Full directions for the work ^re given and the designs include dress garniture, collars, handkerchiefs, centrepieces, doilies, etc., with full directions for working. Price, 25 cents. The Priscilla Knitting Book, No. 2 (1908) — This is our second instruction book on Knitting. It in no way impairs the usefulness or value of Knitting Book No. I, issued by us in 1 90 3, but rather sup- plements it. It is full of good things for those who knit, gives clear and explicit directions for making a large number of useful articles not described in our eirlier book, and is finely illustrated. All who knit should own a copy. Price, 25 cents. The Priscilla Knitting Book, No, 1 (1903) — Gives full directions for knitting and illustrated instructions for making a great variety of useful* articles. Price, 25 cents. The Priscilla Crochet Book, No. 2 (1908)— This book is the second we have published on the subject. It will be found a very valuable addition to the crochet worker's library. Price, 25 cents. The Priscilla Crochet Book, No. 1 (1903) — Gives illustrated instructions for making plain and fancy articles, and has a special chapter on silk purses and chatelaine bags. Price, 25 cents. How to Make Battenberg and Point Lace — Here are practical, illustrated directions for making lace. *:jch 3iep is fully described. Over one hundred stitches are shown, both simple and complicated. Price, 25 cents . How to Make Baskets — ContaJna full, illustrated 'Ji'-^ctions for making baskets, trays, raffia hats, etc. I hapter on Indian stitches, and one on Basket lals and Dyes. Price, 25 cents. hu Priscilla China Painting Book— A 20-page bci ik full of practical information for china painters. i'rice, 15 cents. The Priscilla Hardanger Book (1909) — In the opening chapters will be found th^ various foundation stitches and their many combinations, and besides this a sampler containing many additional stitches that have found favor with expert workers. This book has a large number of unusually attractive designs given entire, and full-sized details with copiou: descriptive text, making their reproduction an easy matter. Many of these designs were prize winners in Priscilla com- petitions, and no lover of Hardanger Embroidery should fail to study them. Price, 25 cents. The New Priscilla Drawn Work Book (1909) — Full-sized details of each design arc an important feature of this book, and by their aid the most intri- cate patterns can be copied with ease. Designs from Porto Rico, Fayal, Germany, Russia, and far-off China, besides many in the well-known Mexican work, make this book an unusual one. Price, 25 cents. French, Eyelet, and Shadow Embroidery Book — One of our latest books, and one of the best ever issued on French Embroidery and Eyelet Work, or Broderie Anglaise. There arc forty-seven original designs, with a separate lesson for each. All details of stitches are given and the working units illustrated. Besides instructions for ordinary shadow-work, there arc lessons on French Shadow-work and Shadow Applique. This book will appeal to all lovers of art embroidery, and is an excellent text-hook fdr inexperi- enced ivcrkers. Price, 25 cents. The Priscilla Book on Mexican Drawn-work (1900) — Tells you how to select the linen and the thread, and how to arrange the work in the frame. Gives illustrations and detailed descriptions of fifty different stitches. Price, 25 cents. The Priscilla Cross-stitch Book — Has nearly two hundred working patterns for different articles for which cross-stitch is used. Many of them are suitable for bead work. There are also six alphabets and directions for Russian work. Price, 25 cents. The Priscilla Manual — A valuable handbook on Fancy-work compiled J rom our other books. Gives inf- structions for Knitting, Eyelet Work, Harda. ^ ., Crochet, Cross-stitch, Hedeboand Filet, Mountmclllck, Battenberg and Point Lace, and Mexican Drawn-work. Profusely illustrated. A great deal for the money. Price, 75 cents. Originally published at $1.00. Mexican Carved Leather and English Raised Leather — This book gives full instructions for the most beautiful and popular forms of leather work. The book is handsomely illustrated. Price, 15 cents. Wallachian Embroidery — This beautiful peasant work is fully described and illustrated. Many attrac- tive designs are given and lessons for working, with stitch details and suggestions for coloring, make this little book a valuable addition to the work table. Price, 15 cents. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 007 274 218 7 f ' A Magazine Exclusively for Women Every woman who is even a little interested in Fancy-work of any kind ought to be a subscriber for Tie Modern Priscilla. For many years this publication has been admittedly the lead- ing fancy-work magazine of America. It is to-day, and long has been, the undisputed authority on all kinds of Embroidery, Knit- ting, Crochet, Lace, Costumes, Lingerie, and Home Decoration. It is filled from cover to cover each month with designs, in- structions, descriptive articles, and valuable information. It tells you what is fashionable in embroidery, and shows you how to put into your wearing apparel all those fascinating little touches that excite the admiration of your friends. Why pay a big price for embroidered waists, corset-covers, aprons, centrepieces, table-covers, and Christmas novelries, when you can embroider them yourself for less than half the cost by using the practical patterns and instructions given in each issue of The Modern Priscilla ? Aside from the strictly fancy-work departments, there are from month to month instructive articles on China, Oil and Water- color Painting, Stenciling, Pyrography, Leather-work, Basketry, and many other subjects of a similar nature. There are also editorial departments, each in charge of an expert, under such titles as — "Cooking," "Entertainments for the Home," "Dressmaking" (including fashions and patterns), "Mother and Child," "Helps for Housekeepers," etc., etc. The subscription price of The Modern Priscilla is only 7Sc a year (Canadian, $ i .oo; foreign Jl . 2 j) and for this small sum you get 1 2 beautiful magazines. Send a money order for this amount to The Modern Priscilla, 85 Broad St., Boston, Mass.