\¥ E I R ' S 
 IS j^ jlm j^ Tsr c :Ei 
 
 AND 
 FOR 
 
 CUniNG COATS, 
 
 CALCULATED TO FIT ALL VARIETY OF. SHAPES, 
 
 WITH UNERRING CERTAINTY. 
 
 TRUTH can harm nobody, and therefore it is no injustice to 
 others to say, that experience.has decided, that this System, based 
 on Proof Measures, finding its own balance, is superior to anything 
 yet published on Cutting Garments. 
 
 BOSTON: 
 
 PRINTED BY WILLIAM ELDER, 52 LEVERET STREET. 
 
 1855. 
 
WEIR'S 
 
 :0 .^ 3L. ^^ T«^ O £3 
 
 1 AKD 
 
 PROOF MEASURE SYSTEM, 
 
 — — -Foa— — 
 
 CUTTING COATS, 
 
 CALCULATED TO FIT ALL VAKIETY OF SHAPES, 
 
 WITH UNERRING CERTAINTY. 
 
 TRUTH can harm nobody, and therefore it is no injustice to others to 
 0fty, that experience has decided, that this System, based on Proof Measures 
 finding its own balance, is superior to anything yet published on Cutting; 
 Garments. 
 
 BOSTON: 
 
 PRINTED BY WILLIAM ELDER, 62 LEVBRET STREET. 
 
 1855. 
 

 Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1855, 
 BY ROBERT WEIR, 
 
 In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts. 
 
 ^'M 
 
 dH 
 
 ID -^71/ 
 
INTEODUCTION- 
 
 In every new undertaking of a public cliaracter, it is expected 
 that the projector will offer some reasons for embarking in the en- 
 terprise ; and more especially is this true in regard to publications, 
 either intended to advocate old theories, or to introduce new ones. 
 The multiplicity of books, charts, etc., for the advancement of 
 useful knowledge, warrants the expectation, that the new author 
 should, at least, briefly state his claims to popular attention. In 
 the present .case, it will appear the more proper, from the fact, that 
 we are entering upon a somewhat trodden path. 
 
 Improvements in the mechanic arts, and inventions calculated 
 to lessen the application of manual labor, arc identified with the 
 history of the present age. The practical effects which have re- 
 sulted from this spirit of enterprise and improvement are to be 
 witnessed in almost every department of operative industry, and 
 have opened for the aspiring and ambitious new avenues to wealth 
 and fame. 
 
 Every person who reviews the history of the past few years, 
 can but recognize the rapid march of improvement, and the tri- 
 umph of new truths in science and art, over old dogmas and a 
 a long established course of error ; antiquated customs have been 
 shaken off, false theories have given way before the light of 
 science, rude and uncouth mechanism has become fashioned by 
 art — indeed " progi'oss" has characterized all measures for the. 
 public good, and the arts have attained a degree of perfection 
 which few of us could, twenty years ago, have anticipated. 
 
 Although the ordinary mechanical pursuits have in some instances 
 been overlooked in the advancement of public enterprises of mag- 
 nitude, still it is believed that in these departments of industry 
 
there is a field for useful and practical improvements, and it can- 
 not be denied that, of late, some successful efforts have been 
 made in the science of which the present work treats. 
 
 Much has been written and published of late years with a view 
 of improving the art of cutting. Many systems have been pro- 
 posed and adopted, and doubtless much benefit has been derived 
 by their observance, but the sinister and injudicious policy which 
 leads each projector of a system to extol his own, to the utter 
 exclusion of others, tends very much to render all useless, from 
 neglect, unless some work of a more prominent character than has 
 yet appeared shall give them publicity, and the commendation 
 they merit. Habit has indeed a most powerful influence upon the 
 acceptance or rejection of theories ; old prejudices are not easily 
 removed. That there may be persons whose judgement is so 
 discriminating, and whose conceptions are so clear, that they 
 seldom miss their object, we are perfectly willing to allow, there 
 is httle probability that such persons will forsake their usual course 
 to adopt a new one, and there is little need of such a change ; 
 but there are others less favored, who so pertinaciously adhere to 
 past usages, that rather than submit to the guidance of any system 
 for measurmg and cutting, they will risk and endure the incon- 
 venience and expense of making alterations. There is no gentleman 
 who does not wish that his shall be a smooth and neat fitting gar- 
 ment, and none, who who is willing to pay for those which he is 
 conscious have been spoiled by neglect, inattention or a bad sys- 
 tem, the small sum paid out for a good system is money well in- 
 vested. 
 
 Within fifteen or twenty years gi'eater attention has perhaps 
 been given to improvements in Cutting, than has been bestowed 
 upon any other of the operative branches of industry. Systems 
 have multiplied almost without number, and great anxiety for im- 
 provement has been evinced in the expenditures for these rules. 
 It is well known to the profession, that, previous to the introduc- 
 tion of the " Third Rule," or the " Old Thirds," as commonly 
 called, that Cutting was governed by no fixed principle whatever, 
 
— this was the first attempt to apply the science of numbers, to the 
 purpose of making diagrams for Cutting. This, the reader will 
 understand, was a breast measure system. No sooner was it in- 
 troduced, than it was found to bo defective ; there was, however, 
 one very important point gained — there was data furnished from 
 which inventive minds could reason, and it is from this point we 
 date the extraordinary improvements that have marked the pro- 
 gress of our business. 
 
 The principles connected with the division of the measure, have 
 been applied in more than a thousand different ways, still defects 
 remain. The systems which have followed each other in rapid 
 succession since, have been no more successful, yet some of the 
 authors have pretended to reach the ne plus ultra ; this has been 
 done so frequently, that the man who would now present anything 
 new upon the subject, would incur the risk of appearing ridiculous. 
 
 Neither the " Third Rule,"' or any other breast measure system, 
 is a good guide to fitting, nor ever will be, until all mankind gi'ow 
 in one uniform shape. The trade has, notwithstandmg, gained 
 gTcat benefit from certain systems, and they are worthy of preser- 
 vation. Should every other revolution in the art be productive of 
 as much good, we may hope to see the time, when the employment 
 of " bushelmen" will be confined to repairing. 
 
 We have frequently met with inventors of rules, who, upon en- 
 quiry for an explanation of the various scales and divisions used 
 by them in drafting, could give no other answer, than that such 
 was the rule, and that they discovered its operation more by chance, 
 than by any fixed principle, or sound reasoning. Such arbitraiy 
 and inexplicable rules, can be of but little utility. What would 
 any intelligent man think of a system, published by such a person ? 
 He could but regard the production as trash, and the inventor as 
 an imposter. No attempt seems to have been made to criticise 
 these so called rules, in public, or by investigation, to expose the 
 total lack of principles, upon which they are claimed to be estab- 
 lished. It would be apparent to any imprejudiced mind, that they 
 were " cabbaged," or made up of parts of other systems, published 
 
6 
 
 and sold to the unwary, as original inventions. Certainly this is 
 not just, and the man who would knowingly lend his name as ref- 
 erence or endorsement of such publications, is undeserving of pub- 
 lic confidence. 
 
 That the unnecessary multiplication of rules, is, in itself, an evil, 
 every candid thinking man will admit. If every author or pub- 
 lisher were called upon, by way of introduction, to give a full and 
 accurate explanation of the principles upon which his system is said 
 to be based, it would tend to check the operations of those ignorant 
 pretenders, who have overspread the country with a variety of rules 
 and systems, which are not worth the paper upon which they are 
 printed. The multiplicity of these valueless publications, or the 
 prejudices of those who have suffered from the imposition of these 
 " catch-penny s," have, through fear of being hoaxed a second time, 
 declined to patronise any work, whether it should possess merit or 
 otherwise. 
 
 "VVe are not fanatical, or foolishly radical in our views, nor are 
 we so stupidly conservative, as to repudiate all progress, as evil ; 
 we favor progress in the right direction, — that progress which pro- 
 motes the public welfare. A few moments of observation in our 
 public streets, will convince any person of taste and judgment, that 
 the business of cutting, is not unfrequently conducted by persons 
 wholly incompetent. Nothing can be more displeasing to the eye 
 of taste, than the appearance of the miserable apologies for gar- 
 ments, which, in some cases, are worn by persons who are wholly 
 unconscious that they possess any great defects. Let us endeavor 
 to detect the lurkingplace of this mischief, and, if possible, expose 
 it to the light, and by the combined wisdom of those who may wish 
 to promote the respectability of the profession, a remedy may be 
 pointed out. 
 
GENERAL REMARKS, 
 
 Pkecepts and rules should be few, natural, and expressed with 
 precision, and should occupy but a small space. In performing 
 the service here called for, it is proposed to enter into a succinct 
 review of the most popular of the systems that have been made 
 public. A brief analysis only, will be presented, and the excellen- 
 cies and defects of each pointed out. We shall, of course, be under 
 some restraint, in regard to systems that are protected by copy- 
 rights, and intend to steer our course with regard to them all, so 
 that no injury shall be sustained by their owners, in consequence 
 of our labor, any further than candor and fidelity shall absolutely 
 require. So far, however, as we differ in opinion, that difference 
 shall be freely expressed, although we shall " nothing extenuate, 
 or set down ought in mahce." 
 
 The breast measure system, is the first in order, because it was 
 the first introduced. This system is known by different names ; 
 it is called the mathematical rule, because the points of the draft 
 are obtained by the combined calculations of division, addition, etc. 
 The breast measure is made the basis of all the calculations. It 
 now appears plain, that the basis of this rule is wrong, as applied 
 to fitting the body, for whatever diversities may exist in the form- 
 ation of a number of individuals, measuring the same around the 
 chest, a third, a sixth, a twelfth, or a half, a fourth, or an eighth, 
 will be the same in all cases, although each man may require vari- 
 ations peculiar to himself. It was originally assumed, that a third 
 of half the breast measure, would give the right distance between 
 certain points of a draft, that a fourth would give another, and so 
 on. The man of mere figures followed the directions before him, 
 and if he happened to fit well on the first trial, he, of course, pro- 
 nounced the plan admirable ; but some how or other, he found out 
 that the plan did not work so well as at first supposed. This has 
 
8 
 
 led him to tliiiik tliat something is wrong. He will naturally ask 
 what is the matter ? The system cannot be any worse than when 
 he purchased it ; the fault, he will conclude, was in himself ; he 
 will try again. He will, perhaps, vary the plan, by which he could 
 fit a good form, and attempt to make it applicable to fitting a bad 
 form, but with no better success. 
 
 While in this perplexity, a man enters, with an improvement on 
 the breast measure rule. This is the very thing he wanted. He 
 takes the improvement, and goes to work with new spirits ; but, 
 alas, he has only changed the difficulty — the error still remains. 
 In a word, the basis of this system is wrong, and no calculation or 
 deduction can make it right. 
 
 The shoulder measure, as adopted by Mr. Hearne, and used in 
 connection with the breast, was an improvement m the right direc- 
 tion, but still subject to a few of the difficulties attending the breast 
 measure. Subsequently other shoulder measures were added, and 
 systematized by Mr. Madison, and others, by which it has arrived 
 at a certain degree of perfection, which warrants another attempt 
 to remove all difficulties attending it. We have at present, more 
 than a hundred different systems before ns ; nearly all of them be- 
 long to the same family, that is, the breast measure for basis. 
 And oui! remarks are equally applicable to all. 
 
 There is another class of systems in use, which claims our atten- 
 tion, and deserves a passing notice. This class of rules differs in 
 every particular from the last mentioned. It is founded on the 
 actual measuring principle, by some, called the harness system, 
 with buckle and strap attached ; this is a method of taking measures 
 by means of a strap of leather, or steel, passed around the body, 
 under the arms, and fastened with a buckle, and from certain pivots 
 in front, and back, the distance to all the various parts of the body 
 are ascertained. This method claims originality and accuracy, in 
 all its measures, and unerring certainty in transferring the measure 
 taken to the cloth. As for the truth of the statement, we leave it 
 to those who have used the rule, to decide. The majority of those 
 with whom we have conversed on the subject, say, that it is very 
 
9 
 
 troublesome to the cutter, and annoying to the customer ; the mea- 
 sures are complicated, and will not, when applied to the cloth, give 
 to a certainty that for which they were intended. For our part, 
 we thinli of this method, that it is very good, when in the hands of 
 an intelligent, practical cutter, — otherwise, it will increase the too 
 prevalent practice, of employ ieg bushelling men. 
 
 We now proceed to set forth the improvements and advantages 
 of this system, over all preceding ones. 
 
 In the prosecution of the task in which we have been engaged, 
 three things were necessary ; first, to produce a set of measures, 
 which would ascertain the various points of a coat, otherwise there 
 would be no accuracy. Secondly, that the same measures would 
 mdicate in what position the person stood. Thirdly, to systema- 
 tize those measures, so as to fit all variety of shapes and forms, 
 according to the measures taken. 
 
 These objects are attained, and we are satisfied with the results. 
 The measure are neither numerous nor complicated, being those 
 measures that cutters generally apply, to find if the draft is cor- 
 rect, and called proof measures ; this being the case, why not make 
 those proof measures the basis for building an unerring system 
 upon. 
 
 1. From the top of the back, to the full length of waist, say 
 18 inches. 
 
 2. From the top of the back, passing the measure in front of 
 the arm, and continuing to the full leng-th of waist, 26 inches, — 
 this is the balance measure. The difference between these two 
 measures, is 8 inches, which is called the balance. By the bal- 
 ance, we ascertain the position in which the person stands, whether 
 stooped or straight ; if stooped, the difference will be less, and if 
 straight, the diflference will be more. This balance, we claim as 
 original, and will protect it. 
 
 3. Blade measure. 
 
 4. Upper shoulder measure. 
 
 5. Lower shoulder measure. 
 
 The three last-named measures are systematLzed, so as to fit any 
 
10 
 
 form or shajDe. By strictly following the dictates of this theory, 
 the cutter will be certain of a good fitting coat, without trying it 
 on, before finished. This, we believe, is a common practice with 
 some cutters. 
 
 What a depravity of genius in the nineteenth century, when 
 every art is striving for the mastery ! There is no situation more 
 awkward, than that of a cutter, who has mutilated his employer's 
 cloth, which will frequently be the case, when a man has nothing 
 but the poor resource of chance, or hope, that his v/ork will fit. 
 
 It is a fact, that many employers have clothes thrown upon their 
 hands, to a considerable amount, besides what they may have dis- 
 posed of, by alterations. Such circumstances as these, must ever 
 happen, while people are content to remain in ignorance. To be 
 uninfoimed, may be the lot of many, whose inexperience has not 
 furnished them with opportunities to compass the matter in question. 
 True genius is not the lot of every one ; yet almost every man is 
 sufficiently enabled, by application and perseverance in certain 
 rudiments, to acquire such a knowledge in any common manufac- 
 turing business, as will answer the practice of it. Some tailors sit 
 down in the forlorn hope of struggling through, without ever en- 
 quiring further than the maxims of his father, or the erroneous 
 principles of some antiquated breast measure rule. Such poverty 
 of genius has always inhabited the minds of some men ; or they 
 never would have continued so long in such egregious errors ! 
 which liave been handed down from father to son. One of the 
 first things to be acquired, in order to tlie improvement of arts, 
 and the enlarging of our ideas, is for a time to step out of the 
 beaten way of common practice, and by a prudent reserve, make 
 strict and judicious enquiries into the matter j^ou would investi- 
 gate, before you make any anti-conclusions to the theme in ques- 
 tion. We are not unapprized of the objections which may be 
 made to the bold assertion of arriving at perfection in any art. 
 
 We must confess, our best knowledge Is sometimes imperfect and 
 fallacious ; after all our confidence, it is possible, things may be 
 otherwise ; this must be the case, when demonstrations are raised 
 
 i 
 
11 
 
 from false principles ; but when genuine effects are produced, and 
 proportionate systems appear from efficient causes ; and wlien the 
 object is within the boundaries of our intellects, we must pronounce 
 the axiom incontrovertible. 
 
 The positive assertions of hypothesis, we own, may be alleo-ed 
 to be full of difficulty and doubt, especially in the art of cutting 
 garments when the least error of appropriating or uniting the most 
 trifling separation of any of the parts, would tend to produce a 
 misfitting garment. This we may admit, but this could not hap- 
 pen where the practice is coincident with the theory. We hope 
 our maxims will be universal; that every one may know and 
 practice them : study the pruiciple of each measure, and how it is 
 applied on the draft, to correspond with the part over which the 
 measure passes : when these things are attained, the draft can be 
 executed with ease and satisfaction. 
 
12 
 
 MEASUREMENT. 
 
 The order of the measures as taken, are as follows : — 
 
 1. Before you request your customer to take off his coat, place your mea- 
 sure at the top of the back, and find the full length of the waist, say 18in. ; 
 continue to full length of skirt. This measure is taken over the coat, in 
 order to find the length of waist accurately. You will now request your 
 customer to take off his coat, make a mark between the shoulder blades, 
 say 8 1-2 inches from the top of the back ; then place your measure at the 
 top of the back, as before, and measure to the full length of waist, 18 in, ; 
 make a mark at this place. 
 
 2. Still holding the measure under the thumb of the left hand, at the top 
 of the back, pass it round in front of the arm, and find the distance to the 
 length of waist at 18in. ; say 26 inches. 
 
 3. Pass the measure close under the arm, and over the most prominent 
 part of the shoulder blade, to the mark S}^, say 22 inches. 
 
 4. Carry the measure up to the top of the back, at the place of begin- 
 ning, say 25 inches. 
 
 5. Now drop the measure down the centre of the back, about 4 or 5 in. 
 between the back scyes, and pass it around in front of the arm, and back 
 to place of beginning, say 25} o inches. 
 
 6. The length of sleeve, 33 inches. 
 
 7. Around the breast. 
 
 8. Around the waist. 
 
 All those measures are taken tight, except the balance measure. 
 
 RECAPITULATION. 
 
 To the mark between the shoulder blades, 8)^. 
 
 To natural length of wai^t, 16. 
 
 To full length of waist, 18. 
 
 To full length of coat, 37. 
 
 Balance measure, 26. 
 
 Blade measure, 22. 
 
 Upper shoulder measure, 25. 
 
 Lower shoulder measure, 25 1-2. 
 
 Length of sleeve to elbow, 20. 
 
 Full length of sleeve, 33. 
 
 Breast, 36. Waist, 30. 
 
 Measures as recorded in the Measure Book. — 8%, 18, 37, 
 26, 22, 25, 25i.< 20, 33, 36, 30. 
 
 The sleeves are now worn so large, that we do not deem it necessary to 
 give any measure for them. 
 
13 
 
 BALANCE. 
 
 To find the balance, subtract the full length of the waist fr«m the balance 
 measure, thus — 
 
 Balance Measure, 26 
 Length of waist, 18 
 
 Balance, 8 
 
 Whatever the difference between these two measures may be, a corres- 
 ponding number will be found, on the end of the ruler, marked balance ; — 
 this gives the position of the shoulder. There is another balance in connec- 
 tion with this, which governs the distance ; from A to 1, on the back, see 
 Plate 1, Diagram 1. 
 
 It is well known to every intelligent cutter, that the upper shoulder mea- 
 sure of two persons, one straight and the other stooped, maybe the same. 
 If a certain division of the upper shoulder measure is taken, to find the dis- 
 tance from A to 1, on the back, it will remain th« same in all cases. The 
 result is a crease, or wrinkle in the neck of the coat, which will extend over 
 the shoulder to the front of the scye, when on a straight man. And if the 
 person is stooped, the coat will stand off from the neck. To remedy this 
 defect. Scale 1, on the rule, has been so arranged, as to correspond to a 
 balance of 6 inches, and for every inch, balance more than 6 ; deduct one 
 quarter in drafting the back ; (in Scale No. 1, each number is divided into 4 
 quarters.) And to every inch, balance less than 6, add one quarter, in all 
 other parts of the draft, Scale 1, will be used as it is. 
 
14 
 
 DRAFTING. 
 
 PLATE I. DIAGRAM 1. 
 
 The figures on the diagram, represent the number of the scale to be used 
 
 From A to 1, is Scale 1, upper shouldsr measure. 
 From 1 to 3, is Scale 3, 
 
 From 1 to 2, is Scale 2, lower shoulder measure, add i^ inch at 2. 
 16 inches is the natural length of the waist, square from line C. 18 in. 
 is the full length of waist, square from the outside line. 
 
 PLATE I. DIAGRAM 2. 
 
 Place the back as represented, and mark the side seam. 
 
 From 3 to line G, is the blade measure, 22, Scale 1. 
 
 From 16 to line G, is 1-2 the waist, draw the line G. 
 
 Place the balance end of the ruler, square with the line G, so that the 
 aide of the ruler will range with point 2 on the back. Then mark at O, the 
 balance 8 ; draw the line B, by O and 2. See the position of the ruler on 
 Plate 3, Diagram 6. 
 
 From O to B, is Scale 1, lower shoulder measure. 
 
 From O to 3, is Scale 3, lower shoulder measure. 
 
 From 3 on the back, to e, is j.i the breast measure. Add ig of breast. 
 
 From B to A, is Scale 4, upper shoulder measure. 
 
 From A to 5, is Scale 5, ** " " See the position of 
 
 ,jruler, on Plate 3, Diagram 7. 
 
 From e to F, is Scale 5. ** '* Add i^in. at F, and 3^'in. front. 
 
 From B to 1, is Scale 1, lower shoulder measure. 
 
 From 1 to 2, on line D, is Scale 2, lower shoulder measure. Square the 
 line D. 
 
 From 3 to 2, is Scale 2, *• *' " Square line H. 
 
 From to 6, on line g, is Scale 6, upper shoulder measure. 
 
 From to 7, is Scale 7, lower shoulder measure. This point is halfway 
 ijetween line B and G. 
 
 From to 6, is Scale 6, lower shoulder measure. 
 
 From 6 to 2 on the back, is Scale 7. Square to i. See Plate 3, Diag. 7. 
 
 Place your finger on the prominent part of the side seam, and bring point 
 2 on line i, and mark the side seam as represented. Now place the top of 
 -the back at a, and bring point 2 on line D. Mark the shoulder seam and 
 gorge, by 5 to F. 
 
 Again, bring point 2 on line H, and mark out the scye, by the points 6, 
 5, 7 and 6. Cut the under part of the scye a i^ of an inch below 6. 
 
 From 16 to 18, on the forepart, is the same distance as from 16 to 18, 
 on the side seam. From 16 on the back, to 16 on the forepart, is ^ the 
 waist measure. Scale 1. Square the line 18, and draw the line m by the 
 -diagonal line A, on the ruler. 
 
PLATE 
 
r LM I L II . 
 
15 
 
 PLATE II. DIAGRAM 3. 
 
 When the forepart is cut, measure the scye, and draft the sleeve top by 
 the scye measure, say 16 inches. 
 
 From 1 to 1, is the whole lower shoulder measure, Scale 1. 
 
 from 1 to 1, on the sleeve, is Scale 1, scye measure. 
 
 From 1 to 8, is Scale 8. 
 
 From line 2 to 6, is Scale 6, lower shoulder measure. ^ 
 
 From 2 to 9, is Scale 9, scye measure. 
 
 From 6 to 8, is Scale 8. All other parts of the sleeve will be governed 
 by measure or fashion. 
 
 From 2 to 8, under side sleeve, is Scale 8, scye measure. 
 
 PLATE II. DIAGRAM 4. 
 
 Draw a straight line n, and square to 1. 
 
 From P to N, is the same distance as from P to n, on Plate I, Diagram 2. 
 
 From P to 1, is Scale 1, i^ waist measure. 
 Form the skirt according to fashion. 
 
 The distance between those two points, P and n, on Plate I, Diagram 2, 
 is obtained by drawing a line from point R to m. See Plate 1, Diagram 2. 
 This distance will always give the proper spring for a skirt. 
 
 PLATE 11. DIAGRAM 5, 
 
 Square from the front line to c, and draft by the breast measure. 
 From c to top, is }^. 
 From c to D, is 3^, 
 from D to F, is i|. 
 
PLATE 
 
 
 .Yo.7. I 
 
PLAIh 
 
17 
 
 PLATE lY. DIAGRAM 8. 
 
 This diagram is drafted sam© as Diagram 2, Plate 1,. except the waist, 
 which is drafted by the hip measure. 
 From 18 to line g, is l^ ^'^® '"P measure. 
 From line g to m, is 3^^ the hip measure. 
 
 Add 1^ at m, as per diagram. Add lapel, and form the forepart. 
 From C to D, is 1.3 the hip measure. 
 From D to F, is 1-6 the hip measure. 
 
.0, t^-'i-i \ 
 
LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 
 
 H 
 
 014 082 877 4 ^ 
 
 )