ORDERS THE HOBART COMPANY- NEW YORK Class ILSlJlUL Book ys U CopyrigM^N COPYRIGHT DEPOSrr. ^, D" WONDERS OF JAPAN A PORTFOLIO OF VIEWS IN THE ENCHANTED BAMBOO-LAND COPYRIGHT, 1904, BY THE HOBART COMPANY THE HOBART COMPANY PUBLISHERS 'NEW YORK: CITY i!) WONDERS OF JAPAN PROBABLY in all the wide world there is no country about whose past hovers such a halo of romantic mystery as Old Japan. The more one delves into her history, and then watches the almost mete- oric strides which have carried her out of what might be called barbarism to a position almost abreast those nations in the van of the world's progress, the deeper grows the conviction that this land of the Mikado is certainly the wonder of the past century. Until Commodore Perry demanded, back in '53, that Japan open her doors to our commerce, the peculiar island kingdom had been all but a sealed book to the outside world. At that time the condition of her people in many respects appeared simply appall- ing in the eyes of those more civilized ; and yet, strange to sa,y, for centuries even then the Japanese had been amassing such art treasures as no other countiy under the sun could boast. For hundreds of years each Mikado was but a mere figure-head, a military gov- ernor called the Shogun ruling with an iron hand in place of the duty ordained puppet on the throne. Under these warrior leaders glorious were the wars waged, generally with the Koreans, their closest neighbors on the mainland ; or it might be, the hordes of Chi- nese, from whose countiw it is generally believed the Japs originally sprung. These same Shoguns left a deep and lasting impression upon Japan, and every- where can be seen costly temples, ,and tombs, and shrines, erected to their memory, where to this day throngs of humble admirers burn incense, and say prayers in honor of the valorous virtues of the ancestral dead. A country never forgets its warrior heroes, even though the greatest statesmen may pass out of memory. It was the war with China, only a comparatively few years back, that opened the eyes of the world to the amazing progress made by Japan along the lines of civilized advancement. From the legitimate fruits of that victory she was cheated, mainly through the influence of Russia, who secretly coveted Manchuria and Korea herself, in the hope of extending her territory southward beyond the line of ice-bound harbors. Japan has never forgotten this, and during these years all her energies have been devoted to preparing for the greatest struggle of her national existence, when the hosts of the Czar and the Mikado would meet in a death-grapple upon the plains and in the mountain passes along the storied Yalu. Knowing what Japan was just fifty-odd years back, it almost staggers belief to find that to-da3 r she has an army in the field of splendidly disciplined and armed soldiers, to the number of almost half a million, and that her nav}r outranks that of Russia in ef- fectiveness, as has been promptly demonstrated whenever the two have come in contact. This is only part of her progress. In manufactures her people have shown such an aptitude for duplicating any de- vice of labor-saving machine^ 7 fashioned in Europe or America that, looking forward a few decades, one is naturally filled with concern and even apprehension, while con- templating what an influence these " Yankees of the East " may have upon the des- tinies of those nations so proudly in the van to-day. The country, from end to end, is filled with temples and shrines, pagodas, and tombs, some of which have been fashioned in a manner so magnificent as to fairly awe the art student sojourning in their midst ; while one and all contain treasures valuable beyond compare. Though the camera may faithfulty reproduce, these objects of interest, it frequently signally fails to do even fair justice to the exquisite carving, the delicate tracery, and the wonderful inlaid- work that distinguishes the finest effort wrought through the cun- ning of patient Japanese skill. Realizing what a wide-spread interest has of late been aroused in connection with the valiant warrior-spirit of this little nation, it has seemed only reasonable that some- thing of the same curiosity might awaken with regard to her quaint domestic affairs, her throbbing daily life, the weird religious ceremonies that mark her faith in Budd- hism and Shintoism, and last, but far from least, the endless stores of rich and rare curios to be found everywhere within her borders. The views embraced in this portfolio may be relied upon as authentic, having only recently been taken on the spot by an earnest traveler, enthused with the fascinat- ing subject. Through their agenc3>" one may learn much more readily than by means of cold type what this island kingdom of the Mikado, the wonderland of the bamboo, as it has sometimes been called, is like — how the Japanese dress and live, and carry on their commercial pursuits — how they follow the customs of their revered and "honorable" ancestors in their strange religious ceremonies — in brief, these photographic glimpses bring one in close touch with the throbbing heart of Japan, and, in this respect, may properly be looked upon as an education in themselves. Gifts to " Old Japan.' amid tlie temples and by wealthy noblemen to spot. some of the odd con he maj ority of these respect they entertain works of art have fr for the dead Shoguni park near Nikko, e been contributed tombs adjoin this . V TW s* TF"*!PJ PfeS • ..* •. ' ■♦ *• "•• r v : ."' .-;*. ySQHH Me% *V"' ^V-'-£ j5* E ' _J_47 t\ * >■ TK illljfe,-*'* -^ 1 ! 1 1 ■ ■ \ sh*ii 4 >ft "*• ■ '*; ^ -■ ;J f* -> "' f f| | f t-^ v Vi *!■'■?''" " ' '-.- .:'■'. -.-"* - '^H r; ' '■-, ^Sj ^Hf»££L' : ' ■ ■'■'■' --■ :-:. -MA± *M>'-&r ^^n^^^^**^^^^^^^^ r: ~ '■^ • ; ; ■■ . ■ ' - ' --"'""' ~^ — _ ' ■H^HE&r - -Qs--^ ' j' V'i-Ii' .• J-t^*?-"';-?^ v -- — " ■— — -^ .. ,'.- Magnificent bronze lanterns with solid stone bases, guai men in honor of the dead Shogun. These with many othe side near the Northern city of Nikko, and in a grand grove of crypton in height. of Icyasu, and presented by noble- ; of Japanese art, lie upon a hill- pines that grow one hundred feet The Holy Water Cistern, fashioned out of solid granite, and supplied copiously with water by the Shiraito, or White Thread Cascade. This unique drinking fount is near the holy shrines at Nikko, and it is calculated that fully one hundred thousand pilgrims journey thither at the fete, which occurs but once a year. The famous Yomeimon Gate ( f th< shr ine of S beautv. intricate tracer es, gr :fu ar abesqu* s. dren, d ragons' he ads, at d mvt ii< al beas ts. It i. forgotte i by the Dbservir g tour St wo-story structure, ornate with lines of arvings of Chinese sages, groups of chil- places of the country, and can never be The Torii, beyond which glimpses may be had of a graceful Japanese pagoda, the architecture of which peculiar to this wonderful people, though in many particulars it resembles that of the Hindoo Buddhists. Gate of the Shinto chapel of Ieyasu, which has been pronounced a superb work constructed of precious woods from China, beautifully inlaid with flowers and 1 with the same patient, loving care of decoration. I 15 -2 c ^ §*SS :' a S ■ !• ■jV-. " ; ^ "" The Grand Avenue is always one of the sights of the-capital, and any pilgri its length in a comfortable rickshaw, drawn by a fleet- footed runner, will always many interesting panoramas opening to his view. These Japanese roads are as a n who. .has been whirled along cherish warm memories of the rule excellently built, to last Motomachi, one of the most interesting streets facing the water, and in each some patient little industry is going on in full view — coopers, makers of idols, baskets, dolls, wooden pillows and clogs, straw hats, rain-ccats and sandals, trifles of bamboo and paper, and vari- ous other things being manufactured. The Daibutsu or Great Buddha, at Tokyo is some fifty feet in height, and fashioned out of gold, silver, and cop- per-bronze. Buddha is represented in a sitting posture, gazing calmly out over the great plain, silent and im- penetrably mysterious. The statue is hollow and contains a shrine. - It is customary for travelers to perch upon a thumb of the monstrous god, and be photographed, for a liberal consideration, by the attendant priests. Mississippi Bay, in the neighborhood of Yokohama, formerly called Yeddo, was named in honor of a vessel in the squadron of Commodore Perry, when in 1853 he demanded on the part of President Fillmore the " establish- ment of international relations," and through his diplomacy and determination opened sealed Japan to the world. -^y,niinn"»M ''•^raijiimmjB ^ ; ;1 il |H ^ffGiy v j? 5^ * i '>^jfag ~ '■■A^rQfrL Jk op9| IK/ ViaSat 1 ' ~* * ^wMH| yjjffjfc S '• ) ! mLS\ ^2 ('■ f|B HI '•''■ am. '■"'■ 1 1 Beg* IEj L •'■'' i • ■ 6 E « < g g s a large-size baby carriage serves as a shield against the fierce rays of the si make astonishing time over the good roads, and it into the charge of so intelligent a " man-horse." In case of rain the convenient hood is raised, and this also . Dragging this light equipage behind him, the coolie can always with pleasure that the traveler gives himself over Yashamon Gate, one of the various entrances to the park where near Nikko lie the tombs and shrines of those great Shoguns who served to make their names illustrious in the history of Old Japan. The sacred images of Amida, a powerful deity of the Japanese, figures, roughly hewn from stone, have for ages contemplated tin the sacred river at Nikko in the north. They are held in great These hundreds of worn and moss-covered " sunny splendor " of the beautiful valley of by all devout Buddhists. The Kago is another favorite method of travel in Japan, and seems to be peculiarly adapted to mountain- ous regions, or where there is a lack of good roads. As will be noticed from the picture, it might be com- pared with a litter, or even the palanquin of other days. Those who have tried this means of progress unite in. declaring the sensation very soothing, if tedious. Vumoto Lake is situated in what might well be termed the Switzerland of Japan extolled by all those traveler s fortunate enough to sail upon its pellucid waters. the sea, and in the village n stling on its precipitous shore are numerous sulphur which in summer make the region a favorite watering place. Its beauties have long been is five thousand feet above nd other medicinal springs, bbs99k^hIH& i * rlH' .^ *-> >*-■ *wmrwRffl!& y "'. ' . ""'?t' hhL - J - 'Bwif iflMi m"4 Yokohama Bay, from sun-kissed water of the chant vessels at anchor, presenting one of the dotted with thousands of n ms an animating panorama ews imaginable. sampans and junks ,-^Ktp ^#^ 'ixmsH ^^^^^^f^'i^ Yumoto Springs, one of the watering places in Northern Japan, where during the short crowds come to test the healing properties of the various waters. Here the old-time custom of mixed bathing still prevails, though it has been abolished in the large cities, thanks to foreign influence. Illicilliwaet River and Hermit Range, a glimpse which the American tourist catches in the Selkirk Mountains when passing through the great Canadian Northwest, on the way to Japan. Like the Chi dive and swim, of a native houseboat, appreciate. IP ^•' - KT'HiH ^^^■^H wSSSSSSBt ■ 'a ||| Hi^sfe^&r* B^^5^' ibimfiii Hb^3 vl-v ^SjatssL; *fes Lake Agnes, eight thousand feet above sea level. A beautiful tear-drop to be seen by the tourist crossing le mountain ranges of the British Northwest territory, on the way to Vancouver to take steamer for Yokohama. The Valley of the Bow in the Canadian National Park is a charming bit of scenery which is apt to forever after haunt the memory of the tourist on the way to Japan. Its rugged grandeur is in striking contrast to the mild and beautiful vistas soon to spread thenselves before the eyes of the pilgrim in the land of the Mikado. * The most magnificent of the temples of Shiba, situated in a public park at Tokyo lie buried in state. The decorations of this building almost surpass belief, and a dents, who go into raptures as they discover exquisite carvings in seemingly endles surpass those preceding it. e five eminent Shoguns distraction of art stu- 3ers, each appearing to- ,;v. y» {J : j j" 1 1 The residence of Count Ookuma tion among tourists. In times gone entertainments held a leading place, the past centuries. grandees of Tokyo, and -always an object of great considera- ; count's habit to give banquets in the park, at which dramatic e supposed to represent the romantic side of Japanese life in • wn i> SB ■ II pP 3 ? - Hi - i B jj r V si t ■ j \y tfe 3 x m 1 y ''V^' fc t ■ f|j| tfk 1 H Ins The Sumida River near Tokyo, a broad stream which which are doubtless fishing boats, manned by hardy sailor frail craft to take toll of the sea. gated by who venture hundreds of i m it Br i *~ ■' - '-' '/ I ;•*? ■.■■■? A glimpse of the road on the way to the medicinal baths of Miyanoshita in the northern mountains. The rugged aspect of the scenery is very impressive, and in winter the cold is so intense that most of the people desert their homes and hotels for the lowlands. A glimpse of the sacred volcano, Fujiyama. This landmark is probably held in higher estimation by the Japa- nese than any other thing on the face of the earth. It appears in some shape or other upon almost all screens, fans, and lacquered ware exported out of the country, and has indeed become virtually a Japanese trademark. The fishing industry of Japan is of vast importance, the receipts reaching an annual aggregate of eight ■vine million dollars. The native fishermen are bold fel.ows who seem to hold the terrors of the deep in ci tempt, thanks to the tenets of their religion that m-kes fatalists of them. The rice-producing province extends for a hundred miles along the coast, and vast quantities of this grain, upon which the people principally live, are garnered each year. It is not a very agreeable vocation, requiring con- siderable paddling around in mud and water, but these patient toilers deem no effort too demeaning if it but .bring them their simple livelihood and its few attendant pleasures. The fishing industry of Japan is of -vast importance, the re nne million dollars. The native fishermen are bold fel.ows v tempt, thanks to the tenets of their religion that m^kes fatali; aching an annual aggregate of eight to hold the terrors of the deep in ci ^Ag^ *£&»■ dfc ^^MF^-^ . i ' ' "m I ~ «■ Si ■-S--4X i J1 i Si i J dm* *4 ^■iawiStea^.ti, w \_j^^S '- : - M » • ^ The interior of the San-ju-san-gen-do temple near Kyoto is a bewildering sight with its barbarous decorations, and the confused mass of glittering deities. In the center of the great hall is the figure of Kwannon, seated on an immense lotus-flower of bronze, and ranged around her are some twenty-eight of her followers. Kwannon is the Euddha of Charity, with a thousand hands. Kurodani, near Kyoto, with the inevitable figure of Great Buddha discovered at the top of the steps on the left. Travelers in Japan become so accustomed to coming upon this familiar figure everywhere, always with the same bland, meaningless, vacant expression, significant of neither anger nor pleasure, and typifying the national characteristic, placidity. Marriages are usually arranged by the families of the bride and bridegroom, always accompanied by a feast, the essential features ol which are the changing c of the insidious sake. Divorce is easily obtained by the man, though it is not as boasting of higher civilization. ind the unique ceremony is garments and the drinking equent as in many countries little, holds nother of those really wonderful temples : lover of art finds many things to admire. number of Buddhist emblems, such as t 11, a pagoda, and an ax — this last serving lear Kyoto, the exterior of which promises sc* The eleven-faced, thousand-handed Kwannon e lotus-flower, the wheel of the law, the sun to typify the cutting off of all worldly cares. ^— i Tea-picking ti: myriads of w of the tea is valuable that it brings six dollars the pound »jCl\ v m tiiSH |Bty5ppwfey' 11 t\i UJ|ra Jfffra J& ■ <<:-.! ' ■'■■ ■• ;;!,»«# " £ I/I wc If if*' The famous old pine tree at Karasaki, v age two hundred and fifty feet in length. Benches lie scattered about, making this se branches, supported by a trellis, number four hundred, and aver- he trunk ia carefully sheltered from rain by a roof over the top. ideal spot for picnics, the water being just beyond the embankment, A Japanese shop where the finest specimens of clo played. It is not unusual to find a cabinet inlaid with gold, among the contents. There is plenty of room for examinatio: gance in all the display. iuma, damascene, bronze, and lacquer are dis- richly lacquered, worth ten thousand dollars, ad nothing to offend the eye, only simple ele. The golden pavilion incrusted with gold-leaf of tame carp, and the head and priestly robes, water. Kinkakuji, built upon the lake, nd the roof crowned by a golden pha evitable lotus-flower blooms profusely, sed to sit and meditate, while feasting the whole upper story was entirely tix, three feet high. In the lake are multitudes Here the ex-Shogun Yoshimitsu, with shaved lis eyes upon the pretty flower-decked sheet of The Jap gardene difficult for them, grown into the sen Kinkakuji. delight to train trees and plants in the most astonishing manner. -Nothing seems to-be too [n the accompanying illustration a pine tree has been coaxed and trimmed so that it has !ance of a junk. This is to be seen to-day in the gardens containing the golden temple at « « a a < u ! i i i ? S Inari is the Goddess of Rice in the form of a fox, and tempi found. One near Kyoto is possibly better known than the others, who know full well how to extort tribute from the throngs of eage tain times. devoted to her worship are to be frequently It is under the charge of the Shinto priests, devotees who crowd the grounds at cer- The temple of Tennoji at Osaka is well worth visiting, and in this case outward appearances give abundam promise of rare curios within. The city of Osaki, which is traversed by many canals, over which bridges have been thrown, was constructed by Hideyoshi in the sixteenth century, and being now tl of all Japan, stands as a monument of his sagacity. The whole of Japan is a flower garden, and it is only natural that those who vend the brilliant bunches upon the public streets should offer a most astonishing bouquet at what seems to us a remarkably low price. And yet a sad disappointment awaits one, for Japan, despite her genial climate, is a strange country where the birds are virtually without son^, the fruits almost tasteless, and the glorious flowers very nearly destitute of perfume. xSBifcj^P ^fiESJ ^SM£ \1^ The Inland Sea of Japan is a beautiful sheet of salt v miles between the main islands from Kobe to Shimonos rocks, others populated and rich in crops. Mountains r feet, and altogether the trip through this enchanted reg strait that stretches for two is thickly studded with isla e and there to the height one not easily forgotten. and forty e nameless i thousand In the midst of the Inland Sea stands the island of Miyajima, a resort of pilgrims, and so sacred that no one is allowed to be born or to die there. Its famous temple is built on piles over the water; the great torii, seen in the illustration, stands in the sea, and its sacred deer are so tame they eat out of one's hand. Nagasaki, the chief southern seaport of Japan, is a bustling place at all times, and especially since war was declared against Russia, for it is from this point that the main body of the army operating in Southern Korea has embarked, and war vessels are continually arriving or departing It is a live, wide-awake metropolis, keenly in touch with the outside world, and many of out transports bound to or from the Philippines stopped off here to give the soldier boys a run ashore and spend their money. The road to Moji runs between hills terraced to the top, and planted with tea and rice. During the annual " Feast of the Dead," or " Feast of Lanterns," fires are lighted at night on the hill slopes, and the cemeteries, brilliantly illuminated with lanterns, are thronged by relatives of the departed. Moji is a village only five miles from the bustling seaport of Nagasaki, which has always been noted for its religious festivals. i