LIBRARY OF CONGRESS D0DD275Ta5fl fO* 'J^'. °, ,-4.* .•'^' *-f c° .'J^'^R^ >* '-n^o^ o *J V. C^ )'^ »*'^' .*' ..v*. "*. ^5^ *•>.»' .r v^^ , » ^ vPv'^ 'V.<=>'^"'\*:Si^\''^^..^^\-i&.^r^^^ ./ *^' 'K oK :. ^^o< o* >°'n^. v^ Wiotr- ^^ket. IPIeeslVjlax. 1 1 lard |o|tick. U ommon U rainar Uuttonkole d Eleedle-of-Porft -^ ^ ary 045301^. I ave-to~ \ \ CjH/iPTER. I EWlN<5.tBlRD C *' >^XHEER— UP!" sang a sweet little voice Mary Frances looked at the canary; but Dick was very busily preening his feathers, and Dick seldom sang. ''Cheer up!" gurgled again the sweet bird voice. Mary Frances was certain this time that it was not Dick. Maybe it was a bird outside! She looked out of the sewing-room window. No, not a single feather was in sight. All the birds were doubtless in their little nests, or hiding close in the barn to keep themselves warm in such a rain. ''Dick!" said Mary Frances, "Dick, did you speak?" Dick only ducked his head again for a seed, and snapped off the shell with his strong little bill. "Peep! Peep! Peep!" sang a bird's voice, as though inviting Mary Frances to a game. "I'll play 'Hide and Seek,'" thought the little girl. [17J Dick eld om DicU, did^oLi ^peaU? 18 The Mary Frances Sewing Book "Where are you, Birdie?" she asked aloud; and, throwing Angie on the rocking chair, began to search. Another soft little "Peep!" drew her near her grandmother's work-basket. "Why!" she cried, "I could easily believe the voice comes from Grandma's basket!" "Peep! Peep! Peep! Peep!" the bird voice an- swered excitedly, as Mary Frances leaned over. "Why! Why! Why!" she exclaimed. "If it isn't — if it isn't Grandma's Sewing Bird! You dear little thing! Can you talk, too?" lifting her out. "I never thought of you!" "Set me up Upon the table, Then I'll sing As I am able, Chir! Chir! Chirp! Chirp!" answered Sewing Bird. Mary Frances carried her over to the sewing table and fastened her carefully to the edge, just as she had seen her grandmother do. TVir-owin^ An4}e in tWe irockin< chair. Sewing Bird 19 The other Thimble People kept perfectly still, wondering what would happen next. ''Do you know — you remind me of the Kitchen Folks, Birdie," said the Httle girl. ''The Kitchen Folks! The Kitchen Folks! Of all the joyous, joyous jokes! The Thimble People's nearest kin — Best friends we are — have always been," sang the little bird. "The Thimble People!" exclaimed Mary Frances; "why, who are they? Are there many Thimble People? And what relation are they to the Kitchen People? Will you tell me all about them? And will they be my Httle friends?" ''Tut! Tut! "The So many questions, Httle maid, Thimble I cannot answer, I'm afraid — People!" But I can say, without a joke, Your friends will be the Thimble FoUk." v5^*:!^ the little tiVd 20 The Mary Frances Sewing Book ''Oh, I'm so glad! My, I wouldn't have missed knowing them for anything. Why, I feel as though I've known you for — for — ages!" ''I was so afraid You wouldn't find me! And then, of course, You couldn't mind me, Chirp!" "Oh," said Mary Frances, ''wouldn't that have been dreadful! I was so lonely and dreary that I almost wanted to go home instead of staying here at Grandma's." "Are you alone In the house. Except maybe a mouse? Cheerp!" asked Sewing Bird. "No," said Mary Frances, "Katie's in the kitchen, • — but she's very busy, and won't bother with me, and my Grandma is out this afternoon, calling on some old ladies." Katie'^ in the kitchen Sewing Bird 21 ''Oh, you poor Little lonely girl! It sets my head In quite a whirl; Let me sit here On this table, And comfort you As I am able." ^'Well, you see, Sewing Bird," began Mary Frances gratefully, ''Mother is never very strong, and Father had to go to California on business; and he thought wouldn't it be nice to take Mother with him. So I'm here at my dear Grandma's for the long summer vacation; and brother Billy is camping with the Boy Scouts; Billy is a first-class scout, you know." "Yes," said Sewing Bird, pretending to look wise, "they have them in Thimble Land." "Have what?" asked Mary Frances. "Why, Boy Scouts, of course — in Thimble Land!" "Thimble Land!" said Mary Frances; "my, that must be where the Thimble People come from! Where is it?" Pretending to looU wi^e 22 The Mary Frances Sewing Book "A long way there — Perhaps you'll go Some day, if you will Learn to know That what we teach Is sew! sew! sew!" "So! So! So!?'' asked Mary Frances, looking puzzled, "What's so?" "Sew! Sew! Sew!" sang Sewing Bird, looking sharply at her with bright little eyes. "Sew! Sew! Sew! Sew! Sew! Sew! Sew!" "Sew!" "Sew! Sew!" she fairly shrieked. "Yes," said Mary Frances wondering at her excite- ^ev^J" ment, "of course it's so." "I mean sew With a thimble; I mean sew And be nimble," sang Sewing Bird. Mary France^, looUitJ^ puzzled Sewing Bird '^2 "Oh, ho," laughed Mary Frances. "You mean sew! How lovely! If I only knew how to really, truly sew! I do, just a little." "If you'd like to learn to sew; To baste and bind; tie a bow; Dress a dolly, head to toe, We can teach you how — " "Can you, really? Really and truly?" cried Mary Frances. "How perfectly dear! Oh, please do, please begin! Angle, poor child, needs so many clothes. When she went to the Tea Party, she spilled cocoa all over herself, and it spoiled all her lovely, lovely dress. It has always grieved me since. She's so tat- tered and forlorn. Will you teach me how to sew?" "I will most gladly; and quite true, I'll tell you what you'd better do — Get your Grandma every day To let you have this room for play." "Oh, yes, we'll have the sewing-room for a play- room. Sewing Bird; and you give me lessons! Must a doljy, to toe" I will mq3t ^ladjy 24 The Mary Frances Sewing Book they be secret — like the Kitchen People's lessons? And can you teach me? Oh, how happy I am! I wonder if I can surprise my dear mother. Can I learn to sew for my dolly this vacation?" pinatore "Why, certainly, dear little Miss, You can learn to make all this: A pin-a-fore, some under-clothes, A little 'kerchief for her nose; Kimono, bloomers, little cap, A nightie for her little nap; A dress for morn, for afternoon, A dress for parties, not too soon; A little cape, a little bonnet — Perhaps with roses fastened on it; — A nice warm coat to keep from chill, A dainty sack, in case she's ill: All this^and more we'll gladly teach, If you will do and follow each — will you?" "I will," what?" laughed Mary Frances, "but each ^otne, AJnderclot-li es Sewing Bird 25 ''Each little lesson, one by one, Then, after each hard stitch is done, Remember — 'patience brings reward!' " "What's 'patience'?" asked the little girl. "Why, 'patience'? Patience is Mary Frances' middle name — Mary P. Frances, — see?" "My, isn't that a nice name! Mary Patience Frances. And what's 'reward'?" laughed the Httle girl. " 'Reward'? Reward," said Sewing Bird, "is Angle all dressed up in the things we'll make." "Oh, I'd love to begin at once — can't we?" Sewing Bird gaily nodded her bright, shiny little head. "Goody! Goody! Won't Mother be surprised?" said Mary Frances. "I'll run and get my little work- basket that Grandma gave me." [-^^ dm 1 [ \^RV^ \ 1 m i/^w f ^ ^^M B?^^=y^l ard' is [rt]ng^ie all drec^ed up in C|h/ipter II 1»|ewingl(B1iiip beqjns to IXIe^ch THEN Sewing Bird began : ''Little fingers, thin and nimble, Fit to one, a little thimble; Right hand — finger, number two — Put the hat on, — that will do." Mary Frances put her thimble on the second finger of her right hand. "I knew that much, Sewing Bird," she laughed. ''What else do you know. If that much is so? Chur! Chur! Chur!" sang Sewing Bird, hopping up and down on one leg. "Why, I know how to thread my needle," said Mary Frances, to whom the talking of Sewing Bird seemed just as natural as the talking of Tea Kettle and the other Kitchen People. [26] San^ Sewing BirJ, hopping, up ^nd d own. Sewing Bird Begins to Teach 27 "I know, too, that you should put the end of the thread broken off next the spool through the eye of the needle, so that it will not kink." "Very good. And very true; — What in your basket. Pray, have you?" asked Sewing Bird. Then Mary Frances answered, articles needed, my Grandma said, These are the 1. — To Outfit a Work Basket 1. Spools of cotton, white, Nos. 36, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80; also one of red, No. 50. One spool of basting cotton. ,-p 2. One little strawberry emery bag to brighten and sharpen '® needles. tnf*e3d 3. Pins. ^ needle 4. A piece of beeswax. 5. A tape measure. 6. A pair of scissors. 7. A paper of ground-down needles, Nos. 5's — lO's. 8. Some unbleached muslin. 9. Thimble. To Outfit ei Work B^i^ket 28 The Mary Frances Sewing Book I needle^ eind working cotton. and, oh, look ! here is a large piece of Java canvas, and a package of blunt tapestry or zephyr needles, No. 19, and some red D. M. C. working cotton, No. 8, that Grandma put in here yesterday." '^Good," sang Sewing Bird, ''Oh, that is fine! Is fine, indeed! The zephyr needle Is what we'll need." "Oh," laughed Mary Frances, ''I can thread that — you turn the thread over the needle, double, because a fuzzy end would not go through even this long eye. Then hold it tight between the thumb and finger, and push the needle over the double thread — this way. Mother taught me that." '^ Needles and pins! Needles and pins! This is where your lesson begins! Now, thread your needle. And knot your thread; If you know how — Please do as I've said." To thre&d a zepliyr needle Sewing Bird Begins to Teach 29 "Yes," laughed Mary Frances. ''I know how to knot my thread; I'll show you, after I get this needle threaded — now! 2. — Making a Knot 1 . I wind the thread around the tip of the first finger of my left hand. 2. I press it with my thumb and roll the thread downward to the tip end of my finger — so! 3. Then I bring the second finger over the thread on the thumb. 4. Then draw the thread tight with the right hand as I hold it." "Good! You'U easily Learn to sew! How many stitches Do you know?" To "Let me see," pondered Mary Frances; "there are m&ke basting, and running, and hemming!" ^ l•l,r':•:^^7 "Of course, — the basket's j^our nest," laughed ^^ ^S§k^i0 ^ Mary Frances, carrying Sewing Bird to her place on "nT^kind the table. > *-^ "I asked Grandma if I could have the sewing-room . , ^ for my play-room, and she said, ^Certainly, my dear, */^ f-^ ^ „ you may — anything to keep you happy!' " utile ne^ "Twitter, twitter, twitter, twit," sang Sewing Bird — and somehow Mary Frances knew she meant, "I'm BO happy, too." "Twitteir, twitter, twitter, twit' 34 The Mary Frances Sewing Book 1 love nnd 5«n^ ^ncTsind "I love to sit And sing and sing — • But lesson time Is on the wing: Miss Never-Try Never can do; Miss Never-Begin Never gets thru." ''Oh, dear me! Sewing Bird, I want to begin right away," said Mary Frances. "I hope to get so much done!" "Well," said Sewing Bird, "we will begin at once with that pretty canvas and Turkey-red working cotton (D. M. C. No. 8). You may cut some pieces of canvas seven inches long and one and one-half inches wide. Work on the sewing table — that will be easier." "Oh, I know," guessed Mary Frances, "the Java canvas is to learn the stitches on." "Yes," said Sewing Bird, "you use one of these pieces for each new stitch; the regular open spaces in the canvas will help us so much." "My needle's all ready from the last lesson," said 1 want to be^tn fi^hi^^wgy^ The Long and Short of Basting 35 Mary Frances, holding up her threaded needle, "and my thread is knotted." ''Little Miss! Httle Miss! Not so long a thread ! Measure it only From your hand to your head." ''Oh," said Mary Frances, breaking off some thread. "Thank you, I didn't know that. I suppose it is easier to use only an arm's length of thread." "Yes," said Sewing Bird. "Now, it would be well to open the skein of cotton." Mary Frances did so. ''Next clip both ends through — and j^ou will have several threads of the same length." "That's so much easier," said Mary Frances, "than cutting it each time." "Now, for a new kind of puzzle," said Sewing Bird. 'Take one piece of canvas already cut. For convenience we will call the regular open spaces in the canvas, 'holes.' " "Yes," said Mary Frances. "I understand, dear Sewing Bird; but please tell me the puzzle." "My needle^ fill reody 'N ow, iE,r a new kind of puzrL 36 The Mary Frances Sewing Book ''A puzzle then it soon shall be, A puzzle which ne'er puzzled me, A puzzle which I'll let you see — Its name is 7i puzzle which I'M let ^ou cee! 3. — Even Basting (on Canvas) Cut canvas 7 inches by 1| inches. 1. Thread needle and knot thread. 2. Count five holes down from upper right hand end of canvas and four holes to the left. 3. Put needle in this hole, pointing downward. 4. Push needle toward the left under two threads, upward through second hole; pull through. 5. Now, again, over two threads under two threads; pull through. 6. Finish the row. Fasten thread by taking two stitches over each other in the same holes at the end. Cut off the thread. ''That's not much of a puzzle," thought Mary Frances, sewing carefully. ''Why is it called Even Basting?" asked Sewing Bird. "Because the stitches are of the same length," said Mary Frances. The Long and Short of Basting 37 ''So wise you are — Soon you will be Quite a little bit Too wise for me,' sang Sewing Bird. "Ho, ho!" laughed Mary Frances. "You may wonder why the knot and the finishing threads are on the right side," continued Sewing Bird. "Oh, I know why," exclaimed Mary Frances. "Because basting stitches are used only to hold the work in place until it is really sewed, then they are easily pulled out if the knot and end are on the right side." "Bless my feathers. And bless my eye! Soon you'll know As much as I!" This pleased Mary Frances very much; but she said, "I don't know — for I have no idea what comes next, my dear little teacher." Ooon^oull know /Is. mucU acj 1 ! " 38 The Mary Frances Sewing Book Oh, dear me! Our time we're wasting, The next stitch is — ThatV all for to • day * 4. — Uneven Basting (on Canvas) 1. Commence as in Even Basting. 2. Point needle downward, and bring it up through next hole, 3. Count three holes, put needle in downward and bring up next hole — 'under one thread, over three' to end of the row. 4. Finish as in Even Basting. ''That wasn't very hard," said Mary Frances, holding up the canvas for Sewing Bird to see. Then sang Sewing Bird: ''That's all for to-day,— Put things away; And, now, little lady, Good-day, good-day!" As Mary Frances went down the stairs, she caught the sound of her name. Her grandmother was talking. "That's a wonderful child," she was saying. " She's Uneven Ba^tin^ The Long and Short of Basting 39 no bother at all. She spends hours in the sewing-room, playing with her dolls, just as happy as can be!" "Dear Nanny!" thought Mary Frances, ''I wish I could explain about everything — maybe the Thimble People will let me some day." "ir~|lext clip botK eacl^ tkrouoK — and you M K^^' ^^^^ tKreacl^ of the c^a me length Ouch! H/IPTER IV |ewinq[B|ird's iSIecret MARY FRANCES held up her canvas at the beginning of the next lesson, saying: ^'Now, I know which of these stitches is which; and I believe I am ready to learn the next, my little teacher!" '^The next/' said Sewing Bird, ''is 5. — Running Stitch on Canvas 1. From under side of canvas, point needle upward, bringing knot on wrong side. 2. Point needle downward through next hole, and upward through next. Pull through. 3. Finish row, by taking several in-and-out stitches on the needle, then pulling through. _^ . 4. Turn to wrong side, and fasten by taking three stitches I rUlt nuft^ in same hole — this is the ' in-and-out-the-windows' stitch." my Tinbefc -^ Stitching 42 The Mary Frances Sewing Book "Oh, my, no!" said Sewing Bird. "You've gotten the thread all twisted. Please unthread your needle and take out the work. Then try once more." "Dear me!" sighed Mary Frances, "one can't be perfect before one learns!" "Try! Try again!" sang Sewing Bird, flapping her wings, ear me: Mary R*ar\ce« ''It is the Thimble People's pride That they have ever, always, tried: Whenever they fail, — this is no tale. As you can easily guess, — They twist the failure round about. They twist and turn it inside out; Then drop it down a big, black hole, Discovered in back of the North Pole, — And up it jumps — Success!" "My, I wish my failures would do that! Maybe they will," mused Mary Frances, finishing the row of stitching very carefully. "Oh, there comes Grandma up the street!" Try) Try a^ain! Sewing Bird's Secret 43 ^'Our lesson is Now at an end, — That's all to-day, My little friend," just then sang Sewing Bird. ''I forgot to ask," said Mary Frances, ''May I show Grandma, or tell her about — about our lessons?" "That I already Should have shown; I cannot sing Where people grown Can hear: if they hear now Or even ever, I may become A Never-Never!" "Oh, ho," smiled Mary Frances, softly smoothing the httle bird. "I'm so glad I haven't told. I am certainl}^ glad, dear little Teacher Bird — I don't want you to be a Never-Never, — whatever that is." Our ,le35oni5 Now ^t dn end" Oh, ho! I m ^o ^lad 1 haven't told 44 The Mary Frances Sewing Book '^A secret let Our secret be — Too much for one, Enough for two, And not enough For three," sang Sewing Bird wisely. Suddenly — ''Say no more, Oh, say no more! I hear your Grandma At the door!" fluttered the little bird; and Mary Frances quickly put away her work. Grandma smiled when she saw Sewing Bird on the table. ''How you love my httle helpful bird, don't you, dear?" she asked. "I love her with all my heart," said Mary Frances. ow you love my little Kelp^l bird; C]h/ipter V EVINQldJlRO TErtSES ^ICKlCJrtNrtRY M ARY FRANCES heard this through the sew- ing room door: "Great kind of bird, Upon my word! Who cannot do a thing But sing and eat, And then sing sweet, And then again sing-sing." "Peep! Canary. Sweet, sw-e-et! Che-e-ep!" sang Dick "Of course, you have a pretty voice; Of course, you love to make a noise — If this rhyme sounds a bit contrary, It's good enough for a canary; But, Dick, what I'd really like to know, Is this: why don't you learn to sew?" [45] Peep! 5weet„ ^w-e-et? Che-ft-epl" 'Qreat kincl oTa bird. Upon vny v/ord!* 46 The Mary Frances Sewing Book Then Mary Frances stepped in. ''Oh, Sewing Bird," she said, could be such a tease." T didn't think you "Good afternoon! ' Tease,' did you say? I wasn't teasing — It was only play: I thought perhaps that pretty bird Would listen to a little word, And hold some sewing for his Miss — The way I can; See, Dick — hke this!" holding up a piece of goods in her glistening beak. ''Oh, no," laughed Mary Frances. "I fear Dick would never be able to understand such a useful use of his bill — he's no tailor-bird!" *'0f course, it Truly must be so — He certainly could Not learn to sew; Oh.no,— Ue'^ no tdiloir-bircl Sewing Bird Teases Dick Canary 47 I see that he Is surely meant, Only to be An ornament/' sang Sewing Bird. ''But our next lesson — is your canvas ready, child? Yes? This time I'm going to count by threads instead of holes, when I give directions for 7. — Half Back Stitching on Canvas 1. Commence as in Stitching. 2. One running stitch, under two threads. 3. Point needle downward through hole to the right of hole Curiocity, from which the cotton hangs; under three threads: pull through 4. Repeat to end of row. Fasten." "There!" said Mary Frances, finishing the row. ''That seems like 'two steps backward and one for- ward,' or rather, 'two forward and one backward.' " "That's about the way it is!" said Sewing Bird. "But half back-stitching and back-stitching are both very strong stitches. Why, when your grandma was little, she stitched all seams by hand. Sewing machines were a great cu-cur — " "Curiosity," smiled Mary Frances cm • led Mary Frances Half back Cjtitckini^ 48 The Mary Frances Sewing Book ''Peep — peep," giggled Dick Canary. ''Thank you, Miss Mary Frances," said Sewing Bird, "Perhaps that Httle yellow bird Thought I didn't know the word; It's funny that it seems a joke When anybody stops to choke — Ahem! Ahem! Ahem! Ahack! Pat-me-on-the-back ! Pat-me-on-the-back! Quick!" "Better?" asked Mary Frances, smiling to herself, and patting the little bird's back. After a minute she said, "Excuse me, but is — the next stitch — is the next stitch a fancy one?" "It is!" said Sewing Bird, "and is called 8. — Catch Stitching on Canvas 1. At left hand end of canvas, count four holes down and four to the right. 2. From under side, point needle upward: pull through. 3. Count three holes down and three to the right. Point needle down and under this, one hole to the left: pull through. 4. Count four holes to the right of first stitch. Point needle down through next hole to the left: pull through. CdtcK StitcK m^ Sewing Bird Teases Dick Canary "Is that right?" asked Mary Frances. "My, no," said Sewing Bird. "That is all wrong. Hold the work here near my beak. There, let the thread hang this way: "Now, pull it through. In taking the next stitch, let the thread hang this way: "There, that is better." "Oh, I see, now," said Mary Frances. "Isn't that a beautiful stitch!" "Yes," said Sewing Bird, — then, suddenly. "Beware! Beware! Beware! Beware! I hear your Grandma On the stair — Good-bye!" Y^ course ,^ou Kave a pretty voice. that 1 heard?' C]h/iptei\VI [TlHE[S|TtTCH fGlR<1WDn5 LEflRNED MARY FRANCES stopped on the stairs to listen. ''Surely/' she thought, "Sewing Bird is talking with some one. I wonder if it's one of the Thimble People. Oh, I do hope so!" and, as she tripped into the sewing-room, she asked, ''Oh, Sewing Bird, what's that I heard as I came up the stair? It really doesn't matter much — for Grandma wouldn't care." "I cannot tell you what you heard, My dearest little Miss; But listen to a wisdom-word, For I can tell you this: If many times you make up rhymes, You may become a little bird," sang Sewing Bird. "Oh," laughed Mary Frances. 'Caught myself 50 1 cannot tell^ou whttt^ou heard. The Stitch Grandma Learned 51 making a rhyme; — but I don't want to become a little birdie, even though they are so dear, — besides, I don't have wings." ''No," said Sewing Bird. "I don't suppose you do want to be a birdie — for many reasons; — but the most important must be that little birds do not have hands!" ''Hands are so wonderful!" said Mary Frances, "they can do so many things. They are pincers, hammers, wedges, and yet they can do the most dainty, delicate work." "Yes," said Sewing Bird, "they come in handy!" "Oh, ho, hee-hee!" laughed Mary Frances. "Chirp, chirp!" twittered Dick Canary. "Oh, Dick! oh, Dick! What lots of fun ! Do you pretend To see a pun?" v/ondemiTl! asked Sewing Bird. "But now to learn HemminC &titch 52 The Mary Frances Sewing Book 9. — OVERHANDING ON CaNVAS 1. Count six holes down and four from right hand end. Put needle in from under side: pull through. 2. Count one hole to the left. Find the hole above it. Point needle downward through the upper hole — bring it up to right side through the under hole. 3. Finish row and fasten thread on wrong side, by running thread through the last few stitches. 10. — Overcasting on Canvas 1. Count one hole from top of canvas and two in from end. 2. Commence as for Overhanding. 3. Bring needle out two holes to the left of first stitch. 4. Fasten as in Overhanding. Overcasting stitch is used to finish raw edges of material to keep from fraying. *^The next stitch is the first stitch your grand- mother learned to make," said Sewing Bird. ''Her little fingers got so tired and sore trying to make tiny little bits of stitches on muslin, that you may be glad you are to learn on canvas." Over'cd«)tind The Stitch Grandma Learned 53 11. — Hemming Stitch on Canvas 1. Six rows from top — four over to left. Needle up from wrong side: pull through. 2. On row of holes below, one hole to left, point needle down, bring it up in first row of holes, two holes to the left of first stitch. 3. Hood canvas over the first finger. Finish row. 4. Fasten as in Overcasting. "Is that all there is to hemming?" asked Mary Frances happily. '^No, little Miss, that is just a 'first beginning/ as my grandmother used to say. Some day I hope you will make hemming stitches so small that they will scarcely show — on a dolly's apron." ''Oh, how perfectly lovely!" cried Mary Frances. "I can scarcely wait! Will it be long?" "That all depends, my Httle friend — " "Upon me," said Mary Frances. "Til work very in-dus-tri-ous-ly, dear little teacher." e moc^t impoirtant muat be ^that little biirdo^ do not have hand< "Let u^ det to ocir leQcon" SmPTER VII L/1NKET lOlTITCH dND ITS lOUSTER. ii N OW, Sewing Bird," began Mary Frances the next lesson afternoon, "let's not talk any, but—" ''Let us get right to our lesson," said Sewing Bird, 'Svhich is an edge-finishing stitch, named 12. — Blanket Stitch 1. At left hand end of canvas four holes down and four to right, from under side bring needle to right side. 2. Hold thread under thumb. One hole to the right, point needle down, bringing it up in hole two threads below: pull through. Finish row. 3. Fasten as in Overcasting. 4. Repeat this on lower edge of canvas. "Good!" she said, as Mary Frances finished follow- ing the directions, "Now, for a stitch many grown women do not know how to make — a beautiful stitch: [54] Bidnket Stitch Blanket Stitch and its Sister 55 13. — Buttonhole Stitch on Canvas 1. Five holes down — four from left hand end, from wrong side, bring needle to right side. 2. Through hole below this, point needle down, and up through the one from which the thread hangs. Do not pull through. 3. Take hold of the two threads in the eye of the needle, bring them toward you around under the point of the needle. Let them rest there. 4. Pull needle through. 5. With left thumb on the stitch, pull the thread with the right hand tightly down to the edge of the canvas. 6. Repeat to end of row. ''Oh, look! dear Sewing Bird," cried Mary Frances, -rvL. i L\ holding up her work, ''I really do believe that is the , way Mother makes a buttonhole! She said she would show me how to do it very soon. How glad I am I know that stitch!" ''Yes," said Sewing Bird. "Won't she be sur- prised! You know eleven stitches now." "Why, so I do!" exclaimed Mary Frances, counting her little samplers of work. "Now," said Sewing Bird," will you please cut a piece of canvas eight inches long and four and one-half Sewing Bird" Buttonhole StitcK 56 The Mary Frances Sewing Book rrance' inches wide, and make a sampler of all the stitches you know. Will you write down the directions?" "Yes," said Mary Frances, getting pencil and paper. Then Sewing Bird began : 14. — Canvas Sampler 1. Begin six rows down, and five rows from right hand end with a row of Uneven Basting. 2. A row each of even basting; Running Stitch; Stitching; Catch Stitching; Buttonhole Stitching; Hemming, — each two rows apart. 3. A row of Overhanding — five rows below that. 4. Blanket Stitch the upper edge 5. Overcast the two ends. 6. Fold canvas back on row of overhanding at bottom of samples. "Will you bring the pretty sampler, finished, for the next lesson?" asked Sewing Bird. "I will — so gladly!" said Mary Frances. "But there's one stitch more, There's one stitch more! If it hadn't been so cross, I'd have shown it before," added Sewing Bird. Cro^c^ Stltchind Blanket Stitch and its Sister 57 15. — Cross Stitching 1. Cut a canvas piece, five inches long and three inches wide. 2. At the right hand end from under side, two holes from the edge, and eight holes down, point needle upward. Pull through, 3. Point needle downward into hole above the hole to the left of where thread hangs out, and bring it up through the hole directly beneath. 4. Continue across the canvas. 5. Return on same row of stitches in same way, but work from left to right, taking stitches in exactly the same holes as at first. This will form a cross. The stitches must all be taken in the same direction. wfc hy, ^o 1 do! exclaimed [F llajry raace< CIhapterVIII EWINa B IRD r dlRY LUOY MARY FRANCES worked very hard whenever she could find a minute; and the next lesson day she proudly showed Sewing Bird a sampler like this picture: "Oh, de-de-dum-dee! de-de-dee! That sampler certainly pleases me. You did it alone? Well, I declare! What perfect stitches you have there!" sang the little bird, hopping, fluttering, gurgling, and spreading her wings joyously over Mary Frances' Oh, de -de -work, very much the way a spring robin careens over dum-dee!( an early worm. de -de- Mary Frances was very happy. ^e^P ''Now, Sewing Bird, my dear teacher, please tell me what I am to learn next?" asked Mary Frances, finishing the row of cross stitching. [58] _, . . _ . ;- _ _ _. _ _ _ ------ "■ _ _ _ "1 ! ._ ~ ■ ^ '~ '~ '~ '~ ... __-__-. d ^ampler like thi3 picture Sewing Bird Fairy Lady 59 '' Indeed I will ! Indeed I wiU ! Just watch a while my little bill; And I to you will quickly tell, And you will quickly do, and well, This lesson coming; next." With these words, the little bird leaned over the edge of the table and stuck her bill into the drawer beneath. Then she pulled out a long sheet of paper. 'Oh," gasped Mary Frances, ''what is that, dear teacher?" 'That," said Sewing Bird, shaking her wings, "is a model for you to follow in making, 15. — Grand Sampler on Canvas Cut a piece of canvas twelve inches by nine inches, and follow as exactly as you can the picture on the next page. ' Won t it be beauti^i! "Won't it be beautiful!" exclaimed Mary Frances, "I'll do it in all the pretty colors — I have almost every shade of mercerized working-cotton here." "Yes," said Sewing Bird, She puUed out o lon^ ^heet o/'papei* Sewing Bird Fairy Lady 61 "Your Grandma took a prize At Persimmon County Fair, With a pretty sampler Like the picture lying there; If you work yours aright, 'Twill be a prettier thing, That well may win a prize, From our merry Thimble King. ''I'U work But, Sew- "All right!" laughed Mary Frances, from time to time on the Grand Sampler, ing Bird, will you tell me, please — are you — aren't you, a real fairy? You seem so Hke a fairy 'come true!' " ''Dear httle Miss, I'll give you A secret to keep. Put your hand over your eyes, And don't dare to peep! Now, you may take away your hand — Behold, a Lady from Thimble Land!" When Mary Frances opened her eyes, there sat the loveliest, sweetest Httle fairy lady on the edge V/hen Mary FVoAcec ^ opened hef eye< The love lie [»> lady 62 The Mary Frances Sewing Book ready -for the leccon of the table in place of Sewing Bird; — only Mary Frances noticed her lips looked very much like the bill of a bird. ^'Oh, oh, oh, oh, oh!" gasped Mary Frances in surprise. ''Oh, really, truly, oh, me! Oh, dear! How perfectly lovely! You lovely — " ''Now, Mary Frances, dear, ready for the lesson," smiled the little lady, in the same flute-like voice as Sewing Bird's. "Miss Fairy," said Mary Frances, trembling with joy, "I will do my very best, — but, please, what may I call you?" "Just shut your eyes. And not a word; My name you have So often heard; It's known to But a very few, But I will show My name to you — " When Mary Frances opened her eyes, there sat her grandmother's sewing bird. There c^at her Gra ncimotheir]^ c^ew m<6^ h\f^^ RANDMA," asked Mary Frances, the next afternoon, ''may I have this little piece of white lawn?" "Why, certainly, dear," said Grandma. ''You are such a good child. I am sure I never saw a little girl who was so able to amuse herself." "My, I wish I could explain about my little friends," thought Mary Frances, but she answered, "I don't get very lonely when you are away, Nanny dear, because I keep busy; and when you are here, we have such fun "M I together!" * fSy * "Heigho!" exclaimed Grandma, "I feel really have th^ young again!" little piece . . . ©r lawn?* "Go to sleep! go to sleep! Baby dear, baby dear, mine. To and fro, I rock thee deep, [82] *V/hy, certainly, dear* Mr. Silver Thimble and Mr. Emery Bag 83 My arms a cradle for thy sleep; Close your eyes, and don't you peep, Baby dear, baby dear, mine. "I rock thee deep, but hold thee near, Baby dear, Baby dear, mine. Nothing can harm thee, never fear! Mother-love is so very queer, Nothing can make thee but my dear Baby — baby mine," sang Mary Frances, rocking Angie in her arms. ''My, I'm glad I got that child to sleep before my sewing lesson," she said. ''I hope she'll be quiet all through the afternoon. Every once in a while I've had to take her over to Lottie's to stay. I've put myself under ob-U-ga-tion to Lottie, and I'll have to make something for one of her children — oh, I wonder if I could give her some sewing lessons, the way I did Eleanor cooking lessons. '^How I wish Eleanor were here! I do miss her so! "I'll tip-toe in to my lesson with this child in my arms, and put her carefully in the big rocking chair, i wonder if 1 could dive Vier I B^by — b&by . mine 84 The Mary Frances Sewing Book The b^ rolled dovin so as to have her near if she cries. Of course, I'm only pretending she's a tiny young thing — because I didn't bring my baby infant doll with me, and this is only Angle. She's really almost three years old; but my, she certainly does love to be 'babied' — and I'd certainly get very lonesome if I didn't do it — with Mother and Father so far away — and Billy in camp!" The big tears roUed down her cheeks. "Come, Mary Frances," she said. ''I feel like shaking you. When you promised Father so faithfully to be a woman, and your Grandma is such a darling! — Suppose you read Mother's last letter over: Dear Little Big Mary Frances: Only twenty times has Mother read over your sweet letter. It was so dear, and brave. I am much better than I was — thanks to such a loving family — and the lovely '^aps-mos-spere^' here, as you used to say when you were little. What a beautiful country this is — your "Fatherland^' and mine. I want you to see some day the lovely view I am now looking upon: mountains rising high and peeping over this lovely stretch of country to look Read Mother^ |a3t letter Mr. Silver Thimble and Mr. Emery Bag 85 into the Pacific Ocean, which sparkles like that ir-i-des- cent feather in your dear Grandma's bonnet. Father is calling me to come for a ride, and I must drop a line to my Billy Boy — who is a good Scout, too. Can you feel this kiss and this hug? I know you can — for ivhat are miles to us whose love for each other flies through space? Your loving Mother. P. S. — Thank you so much for the picture of Jubey. "My, I feel better," said Mary Frances, drying her tears. ''But if it weren't for my sewing lessons, even with Grandma's help, I'd not be a Scout. Billy is a good Scout: — but now, — for the lesson," and she went to the sewing-room very softly, with Angie asleep in her arms. ''Hee-ha!" she heard through the door, which was a very tiny way open, "that's the time!" She thought it was the voice of Silver Thimble. "I don't care," answered a new voice. "It's too much, to have to clean them all at once." "Oh, there are only two more. Come, I'm ready — it is really excellent practice for a soldier!" With iln^ie acleep in Vier o It i^ reiilj^ excellent pr'actice 86 The Mary Frances Sewing Book No or-din- a-tion! "Take 'em out, take 'em out, I say!" Mary Frances feared to make a noise — but she quietly pushed the door open a little wider and saw Silver Thimble on one side of the table, and over on the opposite side, the queerest little fellow. ''Looks like the picture of a porcupine," thought Mary Frances. ''It may be good practice for a soldier," groaned the queer little figure, "but pity the target! Besides, — one at a time, please!" "Emery Bag, what do you think you were made for? I hope you realize it's your duty to clean all the rust and roughness off these needles as I run them through you, so that the little Miss may sew more easily," lectured Thimble. "No in-sub-or-din-a-tion ! Stop and think! You know my family's power,— you know my family's wealth. You realize, I hope, you live in a land named for my aris-to-crat-ic ancestors — Thimble Land!" "Oh, ancestors go-to-China!" exclaimed Emery Bag. "We live in the present, and I demand — I de- mand justice. I leave it to anybody if it's fair to have twenty needles stuck into your heart at once!" Take em out, I sayT Mr. Silver Thimble and Mr. Emery Bag 87 "The idea of being such a coward!" retorted Thimble. "Where's your heart of steel you brag of so often?" "It's scarcely fair, you know," came a new voice. "You see, twenty needles at once are really more than are needed." "Humph, Tommy Pin Cushion," answered Silver Thimble. "What you sticking your 'pinion in for? It's a wonder Sewing Bird hasn't stuck her biU in! Tommy Pin Cushion, you might just as well keep out of this — everybody knows you're stuck on yourself — Fatty!" "You conceited old Silver Thimble," came the voice of Pin Cushion. "You will please address me by my full name — 'Tomato-Pin-Cushion, Custodian- of-the-Sword-Needles';— and what's more, if you don't quickly remove all those needles from poor Emery, you won't get any more sword-needles to wield. So there! You know Sewing Bird's taking forty winks; that's why you don't act in your best miHtary manner." Silver Thimble looked toward Sewing Bird, whose eyes began to open, and quickly went toward Emery Rjtw! Vou eonceited old SilvefTlitfnble. 88 The Mary Frances Sewing Book Bag. Taking out the needles, one at a time, he ran to Pin Cushion and quilted each into its place. "There!" he exclaimed at length, ''I'm certainly- glad I've 'stacked all my arms' — my, I'm tired!" As he leaned back to yawn, off fell his helmet and he melted away. "Serves him right," murmured Emery Bag; "I hope Fairy Lady won't ask him to the sewing party to-day, — she really arranges all these lessons." "Don't fear! Don't fear! Mr. Emery Bag; You've got Silv Thimble's Very last tag," sang Sewing Bird. "Good!" thought Mary Frances. "Now, I'll go in." y. [Tt m olad [T) dot that cKiW ^ to^^leep i Shifter XII ARY (ElRrtNCES [rlRErtSURE (B]oX G <4 >^->i OOD-AFTERNOON, dear Thimble People," said the little girl, putting Angle on a rocking chair. "Good-afternoon," came many little voices, and Sewing Bird began to sing: — ''Oh, do you know, Oh, do you know What we have planned For us to sew?" "I don't," laughed Mary Frances. 'Tlease tell me?" *'For your dear dolly we will make, And every pains will try to take, An apron, and a pinafore; And later, other things galore; [89] and a What we have planned fir u^to^ev/?" 90 The Mary Frances Sewing Book Her wardrobe we so full will fill, No one would care to pay her bill." "Thanlvyou dear Fairy Lady "Magic and Mystery!" exclaimed Mary Frances, putting her hands over her eyes; and Fairy Lady sat in the doll's rocking chair. "Oh," said Mary Frances somewhat breathlessly, "excuse me for calling you so suddenly, but I so wanted to talk with another woman — " and then she blushed, fearing she had offended the little bird. "And not a bird," smiled Fairy Lady. "I under- stand," she nodded, "a bird, be she ever so wise, doesn't understand the needs of a doll-child or the heart of her mother." "Thank you, dear Fairy Lady," replied Mary Frances. "And I know how brave you are while your mother is away, Mary Frances, child," continued Fairy Lady, "but I've had orders from our King not to speak of that — so we'll get the material ready for dolly's apron." "Here is the lawn," said Mary Frances. " Grandma gave it to me." H ere i5 ihel av/n Mary Frances' Treasure Box 91 "By the way," said Fairy Lady. "Where will you put these things as you make them? You must keep them a secret, you know, until we finish the lessons, or we'll become Never-Nevers." "I shall keep them in my treasure box. Mother gave it to me a year ago. It has a little key and it locks. Mother said all girls love to have a kind of a secret place to keep treasures in." "Have you the box here?" asked Fairy Lady. "Oh, yes," smiled Mary Frances. "I keep it in my trunk. It is made of tin, and very light." "Go and get it, please." "Good," laughed the sweet voice of Fairy Lady, as Mary Frances brought in the treasure box. "Now, everything is prepared." "May I tell about the lovely lessons, sometime?" asked Mary Frances. "Yes," smiled Fairy Lady. "You may, — some day. We do not want our help to be given to one little girl only — so when we are all through, you can form a Sewing Circle to which your girl friends may belong, and you can teach them all j^ou have learned." "Oh, how perfectly lovely!" exclaimed Mary In my tre^ur^e box** 92 The Mary Frances Sewing Book Frances. "But won't you help me any more then,^ — you, and the dear, dear Thimble People?" "You'll have your mother then, you know," ex- plained Fairy Lady. "Oh, yes," said Mary Frances happily. "She had planned to teach me to sew this very summer — it will be another grand surprise for her if I know how — when she comes." "I wish afternoons were much longer," smiled Fairy Lady; "but we must do our lesson. Now, just a word 19. — About Cloth, Weaving, and Spinning Cotton cloth is made from the cotton plant; wool cloth from sheep's fleece; silk cloth from silk worm's cocoon; linen cloth from the flax plant. The soft cotton is the warm coat for the cotton plant seed- baby. The fleecy wool is the warm coat of the sheep, or the little lambs. The web from the silk worm's cocoon is the cradle in which it sleeps. Linen is made from the stalks of the flax plant. When these materials are spun, or twisted, into long threads, we have spool cotton and silk, wool yarns, and linen thread, for sewing. When the threads are woven or laced together into cloth, the stronger threads run the length of the goods — they are the warp threads. The weaker, or woof threads, run crosswise of the goods. ood, nov/ eveirytl-iinO i^ prepare HdPTER XI II |M)dKINQ (\ (DJOLLS [rtjPRON a I N cutting any garment, wherever there will be a pull upon the goods, what threads should bear the strain?" "The warp threads," answered Mary Frances, deeply interested. ''Good," said Sewing Bird Fairy Lady, ''the warp threads, or lengthwise of the goods. Now, we are ready for Pattern 2. — Doll's Apron 1. Cut a piece of lawn five inches, lengthwise of the goods; and seven inches wide. You can pull out a thread and cut along the line it makes, to get a perfectly straight edge. 2. Cut two strings each six inches long, lengthwise of the goods, and one and one-half inches wide. 3. Cut a band four inches long, and two inches wide. "How tall is your dolly?" she asked. "I'll have to measure," said Mary Frances. [93] How laii ^^our dolly ?" 94 The Mary Frances Sewing Book ''Come," she said, ''Angle, dear, wake up! Mother wants to see how big her dolly has grown." Angie was very good and stood quite still while Mary Frances held her against the yardstick. "Sixteen inches tall," she said; "nearly half a yard.' "Then the apron will be just right," smiled Fairy Lady. "Now, I'll give you directions. Making a Doll's Apron (Pattern 2) 1. Fold the two five-inch sides together, to find center. Clip a notch at the top. 2. Open. Turn an inch hem at the bottom, and baste it in place. Hem with No. 9 needle, and No. 60 or 70 white cotton. 3. Turn a quarter inch hem on the sides. Baste and hem. 'Sixteen "Next you gather the top, and set the gathers inche«\iiito the band; but first you must learn about tair 20. — Gathering Gathering is done by the use of the running stitch. 1. Turn the goods over one-quarter of an inch from edge and pinch a crease to mark a line to follow with the gathering stitches. Open it up. "Le^rn about ^Jatherin^' Making a Doll's Apron 95 2. Use a thread a little longer than the space to be gathered, which is from the center notch to the side of the apron, (Use No. 40 cotton for gathering the apron.) 3. Make a good-sized knot, put needle in doAvnward on right side of goods. 4. Sew on crease, taking several stitches before pulling needle through. Aim to take up on the needle about half as many threads of the goods as you skip, but do not trouble to count them. 5. ^Vhen finished, make a knot in the end of the thread and let it hang. 6. Put a pin in at the last stitch you took, and draw up the work a little, fastening the thread over and under the pin. Stroke the gathers. ''Stroking is done to make the gathers set more evenly." ,-, rd«|tenin0 21. — Stroking of Gathers *-^ . QS thiTedd 1. With right side toward you, begin at left hand edge. . 2. Hold work between the thumb and first finger of left hand. er ana Keep thumb below gathering thread. UUaer* 3. Put point of a blunt needle or eye of an ordinary needle .tlio pin under a little plait of the goods and bring it up under the thumb, draw needle down and pinch plait with thumb. Note. — Stroking is not often done to very thin goods, lest it be torn, but many small stitches are placed on the needle at once and pinched together before pulling the thread through. Vhye No. 40 cotton 96 The Mary Frances Sewing Book 'Now the apron is ready for Pinch tooetlieir 22. — Setting Gathers in a Band 1. Find the middle of the band and clip a tiny notch in edge of each side. 2. Clip off each corner of band, to avoid thickness of goods. 3. Pin the right hand end of the gathered piece one-quarter of an inch from the right hand end of band, 4. Pin the center of the gathered piece to the center of the band. 5. Pin the left hand end of the gathered piece one-quarter of an inch from the left hand end of the band. 6. Tighten or loosen the gathering thread to the exact length of the band and fasten under and over the pin. 7. With needle point, distribute, or spread, the gathers evenly. 8. With gathers toward you, baste v.ith small even basting stitch just above the gathering thread. 9. With stitching stitch, sew the gathering to the band, taking up one gather at a time. Fasten thread and cut off. 10. Turn up the band. Fold the opposite side over toward you one-quarter of an inch from the edge. Crease. Do the same to the ends of band. 11. Fold this over the gathers, bringing the folded edge just over the stitching. Setting ^thei3 ir\ q band Making a Doll's Apron 97 12. Pin the middle of the band to the middle of the stitching, and the ends to the ends, exactly even. 13. Baste, with even basting. 14. Hem the gathers against the band, taking up one gather at a time. Do not let the stitches show on right side. (CjHdPTEI^ XIV [g] [LjortM FROM THE (JIhIMBLE E»NQ D ^'^■""^EAR me," sighed Mary Frances. "How will I ever get so much done? I didn't want to interrupt you, dear Fairy Lady, but I've gotten, you see, no further than basting the hem of dolly's apron!" Big tears trembled in the little girl's eyes. ''Dear child," smiled Fairy Lady. "We realize how rapidly we'll have to work in these lessons in order to get through before your mother comes, so we are ready to help." With this, she rapped three times on the sewing table with her bodkin wand, whereat a little fellow of queer appearance walked solemnly up to Mary Frances and made a pompous bow. "There is but one needle in the world, your Seam- stress-ship," he said, "which is called the Needle-of- Don't-Have-to-Try, and the King of the Thimble [98] lU ere ^ but one needle in th e wor la A Loan from the Thimble King 99 People has sent it to you by your humble servant," glancing proudly about. "Why," said Mary Frances, scarcely daring to breathe. "Why, — ^you, you are certainly my own needle book!" "Needle Book — that's my name, — and here, dear Mistress, is the Needle-of-Don't-Have-to-Try." Mary Frances saw a bright shiny light come from between the opening leaves of Needle Book; then slowly, very slowly, with his tiny little hand, he pulled out what seemed a needle of fire, and dropping on his knees, held it out on both arms toward Mary Frances. The little girl hesitated. Would it burn her? "Do not fear," smiled Fairy Lady. "It will not harm you. The Needle -of- Don't -Have -to -Try is loaned to you on only one condition: which is, that you will promise to sew some time every day between lesson days." "Oh, I promise," exclaimed Mary Frances. "I do not, dear Sewing Bird Lady, I do not deserve such beautiful kindness!" She took the Needle-of-Don't-Have-to-Try from Needle Book. ^ \Y/^ // ^ Held it out towavd^ Maj^ Firance^ 100 The Mary Frances Sewing Book Poor Pinny "I do thank you — very — gratefully/' she said, not knowing exactly how to behave toward the ambassador of the Thimble King. ''For shame, Tommy Pin Cushion!" exclaimed Fairy Lady, who overheard him mimicking Needle Book. ''Don't make fun! Never, never will you be Bearer of the Needle-of-Don't-Have-to-Try for the King of Thimble Land." "I beg your pudden!" said Tommy Pin Cushion to Needle Book, getting very red in the face. "Poor Pinny!" exclaimed Needle Book, looking very disdainfully toward Tomato Pin Cushion, "always getting 'squelched!' " "Come," said Fairy Lady. "No more of that needle-and-pin talk!" Then to Mary Frances: "Now, little lady, you may begin. The next is To Hem Dolly's Apron Strings 1. Turn a very narrow hem the long way of the strings. Hem with fine hemming stitches. 2. Turn and make a half-inch hem at one end of each string. "Shall I finish the apron first?" asked Mary Frances. "Shall — shall I use the new needle?" I be<^^our pudden' 4-. Ni^Kt Qown ^. Bath-robf 6. K imono 7. Dre53in^-jack <^ ^ <^ o^^ o o v^ / ^^ ,^5: ^^ G.^-"^^ N^^- ,^1: ^e ^! H CO 2 U H H Zffl o z o CO z CO CO ^ IT) ^ ^ . 5 z ? iLl " p cr cQ ■J) -I i cf) I h Z cr I- C/) Q 0- (I h UJ cJ) t - ^ T UJ W r I er 5 UJ tu -^ to o or ccr r h UJ I -0 UJ o D O UJ UJ u < UJ CO z ctr UJ I- UJ CO UJ or LU CO u. O (J) uJ c/) a ^ D Z Q or or uj u er UJ t H CD O < a S: fef^ r '-^ Uj D UJ O o U- 0) D a CO UJ CO A Loan from the Thimble King 101 "Yes," smiled the delighted Fairy Lady. Mary Frances found her thimble, and threaded the glowing needle, although she feared it would scorch the thread, — but it seemed Uke any other needle except that she didn't have to try twice to put in the thread. ''I wonder how it is different?" she thought as she started to sew. Then the most wonderful thing happened. She found the needle darting ahead of her hand, making the stitches just as fast as she could touch the eye with her silver thimble. In a minute the apron was hemmed. In another minute the apron was gathered. In another minute the strings were hemmed. Then the Needle -of -Don't -Have -to -Try stopped dead stiU and wouldn't move. "Oh! ho!" cried Mary Frances. "What have I done? What have I done?" "Nothing, dear child," said Fairy Lady. "But the Needle-of-Don't-Have-to-Try cannot do for you anything you have not yet learned; so use your own needle and set the gathers of the apron into the band." W^///^ yVf-"'-^ In a minute the ^trin^^ ^ere hemmed 102 The Mary Frances Sewing Book '^ Thank you very much/' said Mary Frances, finishing the apron band. ^'And now," said Fairy Lady, "as to Putting the Strings into the Band 1, Gather, or lay small plaits at the unhemmed end of strings, and insert, or push them into the ends of the band. 2. Hem down." ''Well done, dear child," smiled Fairy Lady at length. Then quicker than Mary Frances could wink, she turned into Sewing Bird, and began to sing, ''Oh, my! Oh, my! Oh, my! Oh, my! It brings a twinkle to my eye! The Needle-of-Don't-Have-to-Try! Dear little miss, good-bye. Good-bye." ear little m iood bye Dye. sy [T|"5^ee [Qittue IKIlTTeNS urj-^ HREE little kittens sitting in a row, All on a dolly's lap, Tit, tat, toe !'* sang Sewing Bird when Mary Frances came for the next lesson. "Three in a row on a dolly's lap?" said Mary Frances. "Not my dolly's, I guess — she couldn't hold three." Then sang Sewing Bird: InilBe little kitt^enc "Come riddle me this. Come riddle me that,- Your dolly can hold A cat, and a cat, and a cat!" "Why, how? oh, Magic and Mystery!" cried Mary Frances eagerly. [103 ^ittind in a •VThy h rty nowf 104 The Mary Frances Sewing Book Outline Then came Fairy Lady. "This way/' she smiled; "come, Pen Cil," and with a bound Pen Cil began to draw on the dolly's apron the picture of kittens given on this page. (Any little girl can transfer this pattern to her own dolly's apron by using a carbon sheet.) "Oh, how cute!" exclaimed Mary Frances. "Yes, I think my dolly could hold three of those cats." Fairy Lady smilingly continued, "Now, with the red working cotton and a canvas piece you may learn 23. — Kensington Outline Stitch (Canvas 7 in. by If in.) 1. Begin at the left hand end of a piece of canvas. Put needle in from under side. Pull thread through. 2. Two threads over, put needle in downward and up through the hole next to the left, holding work over forefinger of left hand. Pull through. 3. Work from you, and always drop the thread on the same side of the needle. "Now, try it on muslin. You'll need an embroid- ery needle, because the large eye makes way for the heavy cotton." Three Little Kittens 105 *'0h, I have one here in my basket, and some quite-a-bit finer working cotton, in pink, — isn't it pretty?" ''I — I — put it there," began Needle Book. "Hush!" said Fairy Lady, holding up a finger. ''Now, little Miss, see if you can make that stitch on muslin." "Very good, indeed." "Mary Frances! Mary Frances! Mary Frances!" came Grandma's voice from the hall. With one leap. Fairy Lady changed to Sewing Bird, and all the other Thimble People, who had been standing on the sewing table, tumbled head-over- tin-cups into the sewing basket. "Yes, Grandma," called Mary Frances, running out. "Why, my dear," puffed the old lady, climbing the last of the stairs, "I am home very early, you see. There was no regular meeting to-day because almost all the members of the Ladies' Guild went to Daisy's wedding. I'm home for some games with my nttle girl." "Oh, Nanny-dear, will you play ' Piddy-Pinny- Plump?'" asked Mary Frances. Tumbled into the k>a^Uet Mar vy VAnce< r 106 The Mary Frances Sewing Book '^Yes, indeed, girlie," laughed Grandma. " Goody!" exclaimed Mary Frances. " I'll be ready soon as ever I tidy up the sewing room." "I'm sorry, dear Thimble People," she began. Then she heard the sweet bird voice of Sewing Bird, singing very softly, "With outline stitch. So pretty and neat, Outline the kitties, From head to feet; ''And have them done When next we meet, And they will look, Sweet, sweet! Sweet, sweet!" -fXim I CjmPTER XVI 0] [SJURPRISE FROM (MJoTHER A SHARP ring at the door bell. ''A telegram for Miss Mary Frances," said Katie coming into the dining-room. ''A telegram! And for you, Mary Frances. What can it be!" exclaimed Grandma. ^' Shall I sign for it, ma'am?" asked Katie. ''No," said Grandma. ''Mary Frances better learn to sign for herself." There was a little look of excitement in Grandma's face, and a little pink spot in each cheek. TrembHng with wonder, Mary Frances gravely wrote her name in the book. She opened the queer vi ^ i ^^^ looking envelope, with printing almost all over its /» Ol face, and read: '.^v-Sj Telegram Miss Mary Frances: Expect I by \ Express \ Mary \ Marie and I trunk. \ Letter \ follows. I franc S5 Mother. 107 \sffato tieif* name in tKe book 108 The Mary Frances Sewing Book i1 letter father!" '^Oh! Oh! Oh!" she cried. "I know, Nanny dear, I know! Mary Marie is my dear new dolly. I do wonder what she will be like! Isn't Mother too sweet and kind!" ''There's the postman," said Grandma, all laughter and smiles. ''I wonder if he — " but Mary Frances was already at the door. ''Surely enough," she cried. "A letter from Father. I'll read it to you. Grandma — " tearing open the envelope: Dear Mary Frances: — Mother bought for you to-day the prettiest doll in San Francisco, and she is going to send it by express, as soon as she gets some shopping done for the young lady. She will send a telegram when she starts Mary Marie on her journey, and will write a letter of instruction as to her health, wealth, and happiness. Give our love to dear Grandma. It is a delight to send the prettiest doll in San Fran^ cisco, to the darlingest little girl in the whole wide world — at least she is to her Loving Father. Th ere3 the P^^ tman. A Surprise from Mother 109 "Your Father meant that to reach here before the telegram," said Grandma. '^San Francisco is so far off/' said Mary Frances; ''but, oh. Grandma, isn't it too lovely! Will Mary Marie have light hair and blue eyes, or dark hair and brown eyes, I wonder?" ''I wonder, too," smiled Grandma. '^I know she'll be pretty, for Mother has such superb taste, as Father says." "Yes, dear," smiled Grandma. "Oh, I can hardly wait," said the little girl, looking out of the window. "Come, dear, finish your breakfast." "May I tell Katie?" "Yes," nodded Grandma. Katie was as delighted as Mary Frances. "Katie is a wonder, Nanny," said Mary Frances. "She was telling me yesterday about all she could do when she was little. When she was a mere child she could cook a pair of pork chops beautifully, she told me." "But Katie is only eighteen, now," laughed, Grandma. iranci^co Kdtie v/^Cj delj<^Kiecl 110 The Mary Frances Sewing Book You Kave «» clear, Kedr*t" "That seems awfully old to me," said Mary Frances. "Katie loves animals, too, Grandma," she went on, "and so do I! Last summer, Nanny, when Father had Josie WorreU and his horse plow our garden, I went out and patted the horse's nose. He was so pleased, you should have seen him wag his tail." Grandma laughed again. "You have a dear, sweet heart, little girlie," she said; and taking Mary Frances by the hand, went out on the veranda. "Oh, Miss Mary Frances, here comes the express- man carrying a box!" exclaimed Katie a few mornings later. "Katie, Katie, FU go to the door," cried Mary Frances running down stairs. "The dear, blessed dolly!" she exclaimed, taking the big package from the expressman. "Nanny, I can hear her calling, almost." "We'U have you out of the dark box soon, Mary Marie, dear," she whispered through an opening in the wrapping paper. "Come, Katie, you help; we'll carry it where the wrapping will make no trouble, out in the kitchen — and H ere comes tK. .^^.^^.^an! f A Surprise from Mother 111 rU bring the dolly for you to see, Nanny, dear, soon as she's unpacked." ''You cut the string, Miss," said Katie, "and I'D. pry off the cover." ''Oh," exclaimed Mary Frances. "I never, never saw so much tissue paper — thirty, thirty-one, thirty- two, thirty-three, thirty-four sheets — when will I get to her! Oh, there she is! Isn't she a darling, Katie! And look, here's her trunk!" Surely Mary Marie was a lovely doll. She had beautiful long curls tied with pink ribbon; and on her feet were short stockings and slippers, — but her dress was a very plain, simple, "slip" of lawn. There was a note pinned on Mary Marie's dress, and a little key. The note read: ^ Dear Scout: ^^jy l^*»*'»« Please read my letter in the tray of Mary Marie's v/d^ a lovely trunk before unpacking. Here is the key. dott Mother. "Oh, bring the trunk, please, Katie," said Mary Frances, "and I'll carry Mary Marie." '^ 9Cy ^^ ^^^ cover* 112 The Mary Frances Sewing Book ''Come, dear," she said. "Mother wants to take you up to see Grandma and Angie, your sister." Mary Marie nestled back in Mary Frances' arms, and closed her eyes quite contentedly. "What lovely long eye-lashes," whispered Mary Frances. After showing the doUy to Grandma, she unlocked the trunk and took out her mother's letter. 'Oh, listen! Grandma, listen!" she burst out. 'I'll read it to you!" Dear Mary Frances: This is Mary Marie. IsnH she lovely? She is the very doll I've been looking for, for my own dear daughter. Father has told you something about Mary Marie, but ^ I want to add some particulars. f\ef ®y®S I h^^^ nothing to say about the care of her, — for I contenteoly know my little girVs careful, neat ways so well. You may be surprised when you unpack her trunk, to find no dresses. Mother is sending you, instead, all kinds of pretty goods which you may make up into dresses and clothes for your new little daughter; and you will find all kinds of laces and ribbons, and buttons, and hooks and Closed tInlocUed ihe trunk A Surprise from Mother 113 eyes — everything Mother could think Mary Frances or Mary Marie could possibly want. There is a set of toilet articles, — but I'll not tell you about the other things, for I know you are anxious to find out for yourself. I wish I could be with you, dear, to teach you how to make the pretty things; but I will, I hope, be able to do that before so very long. Meantime, I want you to use everything just as you wish. Fve asked Grandma to let you do exactly as you want to with these things, and I ask you not to go to her with your sewing problems: for the doctor said that Grandma must not strain her eyes with any such work. I know you understand. I hope, dear, Mary Marie will bring a little bit of such pleasure to her Mother as her Mother has brought to me. With love, and a bear hug, Mother. P.S. — Expect to be home before long. en toilet article^ ''Oh, isn't it grand! Come on, Nanny, we'll unpack the trunk now!" Soon the tray was out, and all the deUghtful contents were spread in view. Soon the ^•^V ^23 Q\xK 114 The Mary Frances Sewing Book 'Isn't it wonderful!" said Grandma, almost as much pleased and excited as the little girl herself. These are some of the things they found in Mary Marie's trunk: e II unpack tUe trunk now . IClHrtPTER XVII |M]/^RY JMJrtRiE S [H)dNDKERCHiEr MARY FRANCES watched for the first chance to show the Thimble People her mother's presents. When she knew her grandma was napping, she ran breathlessly up to the sewing room, leaving Mary Marie and her trunk outside the door. '^Oh, Thimble People," she said, "listen! I can scarcely wait to tell you about the delightful surprise Mother has sent me. It is too beautiful — and you can all share it with me! Guess what it is! Guess!" "That's easy!" said Scissors Shears excitedly, "it's a plow!" "A plow!" exclaimed Emery Bag. "What a silly thing! What put that in your head?" "What else has a share, I'd like to know? Little Miss said she'd ^ share it' — and I've heard of a plow- share — and so there! Rip-him-up! I say, Rip-him-up- the-back!" [115] plow!' OKThimble Ffeople!' \ 116 The Mary Frances Sewing Book 'Oh lovely beauty ! Scissors Shears gave a kick toward Emery Bag. ''For shame!" said Mary Frances. "Now be good, Scissors Shears; and all guess again." "I give it up!" sighed Scissors Shears. "I'll tell you!" said Mary Frances. "No, I guess I'll show you! Now, Thimble People, look! look!" she exclaimed, bringing in Mary Marie and holding her up before Sewing Bird. "Oh, lovely beauty! , Lovely thing! And can it sing, Oh, can it sing?" No," laughed Mary Frances, "I don^t believe she. >) "Oh, what's her name? Oh, what's her name? Oh, will she run Or is she tame?" can! asked Sewing Bird.' "Very impohte," whispered Scissors Shears to Holding her up before Sewing Birci 8. Pina^ire 9. Morning DrecjC^ o o Mary Marie's Handkerchief 117 Tommy Pin Cushion, 'Ho call anybody, 'What's-her- name.' " "This," said Mary Frances, pretending she did not hear, 'Hhis, Thimble People, is Mary Marie." "A sweet little dolly Is Mary Marie! As pretty a dolly As ever could be. "She's not only sweet, But tidy and neat From the top of her head To the soles of her feet; ''But she's full of real woes — From her head to her toes She sadly needs stitching And making of clothes," sang Sewing Bird. "She certainly does, dear Magic and Mystery," laughed Mary Frances. Then to Fairy Lady, — "and I shall need your help so much! I'm simply too excited vrhicperfed one aire ^^ not only sweet. But tidy and neat" 118 The Mary Frances Sewing Book 'I'm the richect Mother- in the world" to tell you rightly about all the rest of my perfectly beautiful surprise — but I will try." Then she told of Mary Marie and her trunk. ''Bring in the trunk, — will you, please?" asked Fairy Lady, who had come at once, in answer to the magic word. ''Yes, indeed!" said Mary Frances; "I'm the richest mother, I guess, in the world, with such beautiful goods, dear Thimble People — oh, such a wonderful lot!" Then she brought in the trunk and spread out all its pretty contents before the admiring eyes of the Thimble People. "It makes me sing As on the wing. Though now I'm not a birdie; I'll break in song And sing so long No one can say a wordie — if I don't look out," sang Fairy Lady, "with such lovely goods to use for our lesson ! But to-day's lesson, little Miss, is to make a dolly's handkerchief. You must first learn It make^ "^^ sm^" Mary Marie's Handkerchief 119 24. — Hem-stitching on Canvas (Size: seven and one-half inches by two and one-half inches) 1. Draw out one group of threads one inch from edge of canvas. 2. Turn a hem to meet open space and baste with white cotton. 3. Thread needle with red cotton and begin at right hand side as for hemming, keeping the hem at the top. 4. Point needle toward you; put needle under one group of cross threads and pull through. 5. Put needle back and under same group of threads, and point it through the fold of the hem. Pull through. To make Pattern 3. — Doll's Handkerchief Cut a five-inch square of linen and prepare to do Hem-stitching on Linen 1. One-half inch from the edge of the cloth, with the point of a needle, pick out and draw a coarse thread; then draw several more next to it. 2. Do the same to the other sides. 3. Now, turn a hem each side to meet the open space, and baste. 4. Hem-stitch with number sixty cotton. Cut j/" linen Hem-^t'ttch'in<^ 120 The Mary Frances Sewing Book ^/i; Don t- H«ive- ''If we were not here to help you, dear Httle Miss, you'd have to wait until you were much bigger before doing hem-stitching, for it is quite a strain on the eyes. "You may do the canvas hem-stitching; then use the Needle-of-Don't-Have-to-Try for making dolly's hand- kerchief. Otherwise, you could simply hem the edges of the cloth, and learn about 25. — Sewing on Lace Edging If lace is to be put on quite full, measure the distance on which it is to be sewed, and allow one and one-half times that distance in lace. 1. Place the right side of the lace to the right side of the cloth. Baste lightly, along one side. Overhand — beginning one-half inch from end of lace. 2. To turn a corner, measure the width of the lace, and allow twice the width, and pin a quarter of an inch beyond the corner. Overhand around the corner. Finish and allow one-half an inch on end of lace beyond sewing. Cut off. Note. — Valenciennes Lace has a heavy thread woven in the top on which the fullness may be drawn. A gathering thread should be run in lace without such a thread. 4. To join the ends of lace you must learn about making a fell. ewino on .ne. .ace Edg^in^ Mary Marie's Handkerchief 121 ''What is a feU?" asked Tommy Pin Cushion. ''A fell's a fellow," solemnly declared Scissors Shears. ''For shame!" exclaimed Fairy Lady. "What does 'fell' mean?" persisted Tommy Pin Cushion. "It means he fell down," said Scissors Shears. "Silly!" exclaimed Needle Book. "How could anybody 'fell down?' " "Down is entirely too soft to fell!" said Tommy Pin Cushion. "This is all foolish nonsense!" smiled Fairy Lady. "Let's proceed ; to make the felled seam." "Excuse me!" exclaimed Scissors Shears, "but how does a fell seem?" "It seems you seem to seem not to be what you seem to be!" laughed Tommy Pin Cushion. "What's that?" demanded Scissors Shears sharply. "A — a seemly feUow!" said Tommy Pin Cushion, gigghng. Everybody laughed. "5iUyr WKat U^i>-ftll?- 122 The Mary Frances Sewing Book I did »t witK nw little helmet* ''You interrupted me/' said Fairy Lady,, ''in telling about 26. — Making a Fell Cut two pieces of muslin, five inches long and two inches wide. 1. Place the two pieces together, one one-eighth of an inch below the other. Baste with uneven basting. 2. Sew together with Combination Stitch. (Two running stitches and a back stitch.) 3. Take out the basting, and open the pieces of cloth, and lay the seam over so that the wider edge will be on the top. 4. Turn this in over the narrow edge, and hem. Lace is joined in the same way. ''Oh, I see, Fairy Lady. That is so that no raw edges will show," exclaimed Mary Frances. ''Good!" smiled Fairy Lady. "Now, to hem-stitch the handkerchief." "Where did I put that square of lovely linen?" said Mary Frances. "Oh, I left it in the work basket. Why — why, look, dear Fairy Lady, look — it is all cut and hem-stitched." "How did this happen?" asked Fairy Lady. "I did it with my little helmet," answered a little voice. H^Utn^ a F^ll Mary Marie's Handkerchief 123 ''Thimble!" exclaimed Mary Frances. ''Thimble, what did you answer first for?" cried a sharp voice. "I started it!" "Oh, Scissors!" said Mary Frances. "Oh, for shame, — to quarrel before our little Miss — " began Tommy Pin Cushion. "Oh, you turned good, have you, Tommy Pin Cushion!" exclaimed Scissors Shears. "I had the honor, your Seamstress-ship," said Tomato Pin Cushion, "to furnish the ' Needle-of-Have- to-Try' for this work." "Ha! Ha!" laughed Needle Book. "That's a joke." "We did have to try hard," said Thimble, "to get it done so soon." "I thank you all, dear Thimble People," said Mary Frances. "Will you sew on the lace edging and bring it next time?" asked Fairy Lady. "I will,—" said Mary Frances, "Oh, I haven't shown you the outlined kitties. Aren't they good?" "Splendid!" exclaimed Fairy Lady. 'We did knave to try ha^d Ha! Ha!' 124 The Mary Frances Sewing Book "Those kittens always will be good And never bother you for food; You'll never have to lay down laws To make them wash their heads and paws; Their whiskers, too, will stand out straight As when they sit before the grate; They won't annoy you with their noise Nor hide away your pretty toys; But kittens quite as good as that Were never kittens of a cat." ''Oh, no," laughed Mary Frances. "Jubey'd never recognize them. She'd not know they were kittens." ''Oh, Jubey!" exclaimed Sewing Bird Lady, anx- iously. "Would she eat me?" "No," said Mary Frances. "Not Jubey. She never looks at Dick Canary." "Oh, I forgot," said Fairy Lady, "I am a bird without feathers, and Jubey wouldn't care for a bird that didn't tickle her nose." cvweet little dolly ^ry an el J ClraPTER XVIII 3 (N]iQMTIE POR her (UllTTtE [N]rtP "A CHARMING thing To make Marie, Will be a dainty White nightie," sang Sewing Bird. "Oh, good!" exclaimed Mary Frances. ''That is just what she needs. I had to loan her Angle's best one; and Angle's terribly cross. You see, I fear she is a little jealous of my new dolly. I'll not neglect Angle, but you understand, dear Sewing Bird Lady, that it is my duty to clothe this child — " anxiously — ''Isn't that perfectly right?" "What would she wear? WTiat would she wear Without a loving mother's care? She'd freeze with every winter's breeze. She'd die of shame if any tease; — For every thinking body knows No doll is glad without fine clothes." [125] "White niohtie '^CS'^JS '^©•'»'»*2iy *^r?3S* 126 The Mary Frances Sewing Book ''Thank you, Magic and Mystery," said Mary Frances. ''And," smiled Fairy Lady, "the Thimble People have been quite busy since last lesson — see?" She puUed from under the cushion of the doll's chair a paper pattern. "Oh, how lovely!" exclaimed Mary Frances, clap- ping her hands. "A real pattern just such as Mother uses when she makes my dresses? What is this pattern to be used for?" "For a dolly's nightgown," rephed Fairy Lady, smihng happily. "Now, the materials required are: Three-quarters of a yard of lawn, or muslin. Long-cloth is a very nice kind of muslin to use. Three-quarters of a yard of lace ribbon beading. One yard baby ribbon. -Qi I "Here they are!" said Mary Frances, hunting I * I I ^ among the treasures in Mary Marie's trunk. *^XS^ "They are perfectly all right," smiled Fairy Lady. "Even to a fairy?" laughed Mary Frances. "Even to a fairy," nodded Fairy Lady. "Now, see if you can cut out psaper- patter^ A Nightie for Her Little Nap 127 Pattern 4. — Doll's Nightgown See Insert I Follow the directions on the folded sheet. To cut out — 1. Fold the lawn crosswise. 2. Lay edge of the pattern having the two rings (oo) on the folded edge of the lawn. 3. Cut out, being careful to clip the little V-shaped notches before removing the pattern. Note. — Always clip a small gash in the corner under arm of these kimono-style dresses. It took Mary Frances some time to fold the goods and pin the pattern on most carefully. So anxious was she to begin " cutting out that she didn't notice Scissors Shears looking at her most beseechingly. ''If only — " he whispered — ''if only — " but Sewing Bird Fairy Lady gave him an indignant push with her bodkin wand. "The Httle lady must learn how/' she said. "Of course, of course/' said Scissors Shears in a ^vhicpef* whisper, clicking off the words sharply, "but I want to help—" "You'll help if you lend yourself — " Lay ecic^e of^pattei'n on i^lded eci<5e o^ lawn 128 The Mary Frances Sewing Book Ts he d Thimble person?' " Lend myself," said Scissors Shears. '' Now I might lend some one else. I could lend Bod Kin, for instance." ''Bod Kin!" exclaimed Mary Frances, catching the last words. ''Is he a Thimble person?" "He was!" sighed Scissors Shears, letting several tears fall. "But," explained Fairy Lady, "one day he refused to do as the King commanded, and would not go through the muslin — so the King changed him into a blunt- nosed needle; and he has been compelled to be good ever since, even without his own consent." "Poor Bod Kin!" said Scissors Shears, turning over so sharply that everybody jumped, "Poor Bod Kin, He didn't win; It is a sin, Thin as a pin, Can't make a din — Poor old Bod Kin! If I were he And he were I, He wouldn't be he And I wouldn't be I." Poor Boa Km' A Nightie for Her Little Nap 129 "Hee-hee," tinkled the silvery voice of Silver Thimble. '' If you get too bright, you'U try to cut things out with one leg, Mr. Scissors." ''Come/' said Fairy Lady, ''Miss Mary Frances, your Seamstress-ship, will you please begin to cut the goods?" "Lend yourself!" whispered Tomato Pin Cushion to Scissors Shears. "Tommy Pin Cushion, you're stuck up!" clicked Scissors Shears, walking across the sewing table. "Fll cut by the pattern most carefully, dear Sewing Bird Lady," said Mary Frances. "Come," taking Scissors Shears up quite carelessly. "Just like a grown up lady," she thought as she cut out the little nightgown, and proudly held it up to the view of the Thimble People. "Beautiful!" they cried. "Not so beautiful as it will be," said Fairy Lady, "when it Has lace and ribbon, And ribbon and lace, Holding the lovely Things in place." ^^ou•'^' Lenci •If! ' Beautiful !' 130 The Mary Frances Sewing Book ''Oh/' said Mary Frances. ''I can scarcely wait!" ''Well, then/' said Fairy Lady, "let us begin by learning a neat method of putting two materials together when the edges fray easily. It is called a 27. — French Seam 1. Put the wrong sides of two pieces of goods against each other. 2. Baste about one-eighth of an inch from edge. 3. Sew with running stitch near the basting. Remove basting. 4. Turn the goods the other side out, and baste so as to enclose the seam. 5. Stitch with half-backstitching. "Now, let us see what the nightgown looks like?" Mary Frances held it up. "Good!" said the Fairy Lady. "Next you'll learn To Make Doll's Nightgown. — (Pattern 4.) 1. Fold the two long halves together, and pin the notches against each other. 2. Baste carefully along this edge, and try on dolly. Alter, if necessary. 3. With running stitch, sew near the basting. 4. Turn to other side and baste seam carefully to enclose the first seam — a French Seam. 5. Sew with half-backstitching. Turn to right side. Ooocl!''^aid Fairy Lady A Nightie for Her Little Nap 131 "Do you recognize the French Seam?" "Indeed I do," smiled Mary Frances. "You may use the Needle-of-Don't-Have-to-Try for this lesson," said Fairy Lady, "because you've already learned these stitches. Doesn't it pay to work patiently at first?" "Oh, I'm the gratefulest child," said Mary Frances, taking from Needle Book the shining needle, which seemed almost too precious to use, and beginning to sew. In a twinkle the French seams were neatly made. "Now," said Fairy Lady, "fold a three-quarter of an inch hem at the bottom, and baste. Then hem it." The hemming the Needle-of-Don't-Have-to-Try quickly did. "Ready," continued Fairy Lady, "for Finishing the Neck Clip a half dozen little slashes in the edge of the neck, and turn back to the right side of the goods one-quarter of an inch. Baste. Turn back one-quarter of an inch the end of the lace beading lor ribbon, and baste it over the turned back goods, beginning in the center of the back. Im the To -flnl^Vk necU 132 The Maey Frances Sewing Book Tlireacl Bod Kin with ribbon Cut off the lace beading one-quarter of an inch beyond the place it meets the beginning, and finish by turning it in one- quarter of an inch. Hem beading down on lower edge. Finish the Sleeves in the same way, but it is not necessary to slash them. Then sew by overhanding stitch, some Valenciennes lace in neck and sleeves. Join ends of the lace by a fell. ''Is that right?" asked Mary Frances at length. ''Good/' smiled Fairy Lady. "Now thread Bod Kin with the pretty baby ribbon, and run it in and out of the lace beading." "Not your fairy wand!" exclaimed Mary Frances, hesitating to take hold of the bodkin wand Fairy Lady was holding out to her. "For those who try," smiled Fairy Lady, "no gift of the fairies is too good. Be sure to commence to run the ribbon in at the center of the front," she added, as Mary Frances took up Bod Kin. "And leave ends long enough to tie pretty big bows." "Isn't it a darling!" exclaimed the little girl, hold- ing up the white nightgown. "Now to try it on Mary Marie." To -fTni^b tbe^leeve il.Una erwai '5* 19. \ J '>-' y / / -Lvooixxaa bOd UJ o^ Q. - I o 5 z (5 / / < — -^ / ^ \ < -^ 1 1 ____^ MOVQ I V LU <$^\ or \ \ UJ \ ^ cQ \ '^^ ^ -z. 2 — I— o / / '^ / /' u-i ^x^ 1 ^ - 2 «. > o o D ; Z ; < : ifi ' ui > I uJ -J 03 111 Q. I o (OH ii is L A Nightie for Her Little Nap 133 ''Draw the ribbon to fit her neck and arms," said Sewing Bird Fairy Lady, "and tie the bows." ''Sweet Mary Marie!" sighed Mary Frances, look- ing at the lovely doll. "You ought to sleep well in such a pretty nightie! Isn't it beautiful!" "Oh, dear me!" Such a sigh! Mary Frances looked up in surprise. Fairy Lady was gazing at Mary Marie with a sad, wistful look. "Why, dear Fairy Lady," exclaimed Mary Frances, "what's the matter?" "Nothing, my dear, so very queer," said the Fairy Lady smiling; "only that nightgown is just my size." "Oh," exclaimed Mary Frances. "So it is! You can have it, dear Fairy Lady. I'll work and work to make Mary Marie another. Do take it!" "No, thank you, dear little Miss," said Sewing Bird Lady, "I've lovely fairy robes galore, A thousand, and perhaps some more, — mei Sweet »'^^5[y r^arie The Mary Frances Sewing Book But when I see your loving care, I'd be your dolly — I declare I really think I would; — but, there! I hear your grandma on the stair — Peep!" ou oudht to ^leep weU in ^ucK j^a pretty nightie!' ClttflPTER XIX u I 1H]eR (DrtTH EJoBE F only in her nightie clad, She took a cold, 'twould be too bad — And so the dear child may not freeze, And so the dear child may not sneeze, A nice warm bath robe next will be Our lesson finished — " Sewing Bird stopped singing. ''Brought to she," interrupted the tinkling voice of Silver Thimble. ''Silv Thimble!" exclaimed Sewing Bird, ''when I need help, I'll call upon you — " "Magic and Mystery!" laughed Mary Frances. "Oh, dear Fairy Lady," said she. "Is it true— ^topped is it true — a bath robe for Mary Marie?" "Yes," smiled Fairy Lady. "Here is [135] ^In^in^ Bf^oudh t to 136 The Mary Frances Sewing Book Vhat ute «je; Pattern 5. — Doll's Bath Robe See Insert I To cut out — 1. Cut in the same way as nightgown, using the pattern marked bath robe. 2. Remove pattern from material. 3. On the pattern, find the pinholes pricked along the neck line. Cut down one row of these pinholes. Fold the paper back along the other row of pinholes. 4. Spread open the bath robe. Pin pattern in place on one thickness of material. Cut along the V-shaped neck line. Remove pattern. 5. Continue to cut the V-shaped neck to the bottom of the robe. This makes the front opening. ''Pin it to the goods. Cut it out most care- fuUy." "But what goods shall I use, dear teacher?" asked Mary Frances, searching in Mary Marie's trunk. ''Oh, look, here is some lovely hght blue eider-down flannel." "Just the thing!" exclaimed Fairy Lady. Conimue V ^V»«pecl operxtn^ to bottoi Her Bath Robe 137 "Is there any ribbon to match?" peering over the table edge to look into the trunk. "Too narrow/' as Mary Frances held some up. "There!" pointing down into the tray of the trunk, "that Dresden figured, pink and blue, inch wide rib- bon is beautiful, and there must be about a yard and three-quarters of it." "Lovely!" exclaimed Mary Frances, putting it with the flannel on the table. "Now, I'll cut out the bath robe." "Very important! Very important!" whispered Tonamy Pin Cushion as Scissors Shears came dancing, first on one leg and then on the other, to the edge of the table. "I can't bother with you," whispered Scissors Shears, looking cross-eyed at Tommy Pin Cushion, "I've too much to go through," glancing up to see if Mary Frances noticed; but the little girl was smooth- ing out and pinning the pattern in place, and did not seem to hear. "Oumph!" groaned Scissors Shears, as Mary Frances cut into the thick fabric. "Bite into it hard, Scissors!" laughed Tommy Pin wi ' I can i bother tU vou feiTy importan i!' 138 The Mary Frances Sewing Book Cushion, but Fairy Lady silenced him with a wave of her wand. ''All cut out, and so well!" she said. Scissors Shears looked pleased, as Mary Frances laid him down on the table. Then Fairy Lady told how To Make Doll's Bath Robe. — (Pattern 5.) 1. Pin seams together, being certain to match notches. 2. Baste. Try on doll. Alter, if necessary. 3. Stitch, or use combination stitch (two running stitches and a back-stitch). 4. Overcast, or blanket-stitch the raw edges of the seams. 5. Fold inch wide ribbon, and slip it over the raw edges of the bath robe — that is, the fronts and neck, and the sleeves. 6. To fit ribbon around curves, gather it a short distance on the fuller edge. T^in ccamo When ready to cut ribbon, allow one-half inch for folding to^etUer* ^^^^^ when finishing. v3 Hem ends down carefully. 7. With sewing silk to match the ribbon, sew it to the robe, with small "in and out" stitches, slanting the needle slightly each time. Pull needle through to wrong side, then through to right side with each stitch — just as you did first stitches in canvas work. 8. Turn bottom of robe up one inch. Baste. Catch-stitch with close stitches. 3lip ribt»on oveir raw ed^es Her Bath Robe 139 Mary Frances worked quietly for some time. "But how will my child fasten her bath robe?" she asked at length. *'0h," said Fairy Lady. "That's a good question! Now learn, 28. — To Sew on Hooks and Eyes No. 36 cotton, No. 7 needle. Two pieces muslin three inches by three inches. Fold in half. Baste edges. The Eye 1. Place the eye a little beyond the double edge of the muslin. Hold firmly. 2. Overhand around the circles of the eye, beginning at the further side. Try not to let stitches come out on other side of the cloth. 3. Take three stitches at each side of the eye near edge of the cloth to prevent its being lifted when the hook is pulled. Fasten thread carefully in cloth near the eye. The Hook 1. Put the hook into the eye, facing it upward. 2. Take the other piece of muslin and place double edge just meeting the double edge of the first piece. Hold the hook down on this piece of muslin where it should come. Mark the place and now unfasten the hook from the eye. irlooh and EI 140 The Mary Frances Sewing Book 3. Hold hook firmly in place with left thumb and fingers, and overhand the two circles of the hooks. 4. Put needle under the bent part of hook and take four stitches in the same place, just under the bent part. 5. Fasten the thread by taking three stitches close beside the hook, then take three stitches on the other side close to hook. This secure fastening must be made because of the strain which comes on this part of the hook. Note: If the eye will show on a garment it is better ) ^ S VlOV»< eis 29. — To Make Eyelet Loops Use a piece of muslin three inches square. Fold in half, and baste edges. No. 7 needle; No. 36 cotton. 1. Knot the thread. 2. One-half an inch from double edge, take four stitches about one-quarter of an inch long, over each other; bring needle out at lower end. 3. Turn the cloth and make blanket stitches over the four stitches. It is more easily done if the eye, instead of the point of the needle, is put through the long stitches. 4. When the stitches are filled with the blanket stitch, bring needle to wrong side of goods near the last blanket stitch taken and fasten securely. "As we have so little time at a lesson, your Seam- stress-ship," said Fairy Lady, *'you will please prac- Evelet I oop Her Bath Robe 141 tice making the loops and putting on the hooks and eyes during the week. '^'A pretty cord for her waist is made by placing two strands of heavy zephyr yarn together, and twisting each end the opposite way. There, I see some charming bhie in the trunk! You may cut two pieces, each two yards long, and place them together. I wiU.hold them at one end. You, at the other. Now, ready: The ends in your hand, left you twist; To the right, I turn mine with the wrist; By the center, I hold the twisted strand : Let go! A rope for doUy, — grand! A knot in each end next we tie, Then fringe each end, both you and I. A girdle for a queen not neater, No queen than doUy could be sweeter." ''Isn't that a lovely girdle!" exclaimed Mary Frances. ''It is!" agreed Fairy Lady, "and now, with the Needle -of -Don't -Have -to -Try, finish the bath robe, ready for tacking the girdle in place." iwi^tind eacK eni »ppOC^ • ie v/a 142 The Mary Frances Sewing Book \oveiiec^ ''It's the loveliest thing I've ever made," cried Mary Frances, holding up the soft woolly robe to view, ''and it's all finished for my darling Mary Marie, — except the hook and eye." "Not quite," said Sewing Bird Fairy Lady; "we like to teach little girls to be neat, — and how can Mary Marie hang up her clothes without 30. — Loops of Tape Flat Loops Flat loops are sewed to inside of coat or waist collar, or skirt bands. 1. Cut narrow tape one-half an inch longer than the right length for the space in which it is to be used. 2. Turn under the ends one-quarter of an inch, and baste in place. 3. Hem down each end on three sides, the width of the tape. 4. Sew with a double row of stitching across the tape just beyond the hemming. Towel Loops Are used on towels and on inside of sleeves. 1. Fold tape to form a point. Ol II.. «i* Hat ^oopcj Her Bath Robe 143 2. Overhand the two ends together in center, for a distance of three-quarters of an inch from the ends. 3. Turn back the two ends one-quarter of an inch, and baste to the hemmed edge of towel, or muslin, and hem down. 4. Turn to right side. Hem down the cloth to the tape at the lower edge of the hem. Fasten thread. 'Of course," exclaimed Mary Frances. "Why, my dear Sewing Bird Lady, I couldn't be neat myself without 'hangers."' *' Neither can Mary Marie," sang Sewing Bird. ''Could she be sweet, Could she be neat, From her dear head To her cute feet; ^^^®^ Without the stitches loop'e Made with care. Without a comb For her fair hair, Without some mending Of her clothes, Without clean hankies For her nose, don^ Sewing Bird 144 The Mary Frances Sewing Book Without a patient Mother's sewing? But hark! Dear friend, You must be going! Peep-Peep!" J tne ihiri^! exciai me« ICIhapter XX Eidia hINC THE sun shone brightly into the sewing-room | everything was neatly in place. Sewing Bird was sitting on her perch on the sewing table. Mary Frances' work basket was at one end. That is the way things looked as Mary Frances peeped in the door to see what the Thimble People might be doing. She was just about to enter, when she saw a little fluttering in the work basket. ''Oh, I do hope they'll have some fun," she thought. Over the edge of the basket peeped the bright httle eyes of Silver Thimble. Then he tumbled out on the sewing table. ''Why didn't you step over, Silv?" asked Scissors Shears, stepping over the side of the basket. "I'll take steps to find out why," said Tommy Pin Cushion, rolling over the side. "You'll take steps! Impossible!" exclaimed Emery [1451 Severn d on her perch Over the ed^e oTthe h^ket 146 The Mary Frances Sewing Book iih, I've been Bag. ''Why, Fatty, I could get out of the basket as easily as that myself!" And out he jumped. Then out came Pen Cil, carrying a little piece of paper. "What's that for?" asked Silver Thimble, pointing to the paper. "What do you 'spose, Tinkle?" he asked, loftily looking down upon the little fellow — "to write on." "Oh, I ought to have known," snickered Silver Thimble. "You always do write!" "I am the only one of you who does, though," and Pen Cil hopped on his one leg to the other end of the table. Jumping up and down, he began: "All ready for the grand presentation? Let's practice!" "Not so fast! Not so fast! Mr. Pen Cil," ex- claimed Needle Book. "I lead!" "Oh, beg your pardon," said Pen Cil. "I forgot! I'm lead — ah, I've always been lead," sighing. "Ha! Ha!" laughed Tommy Pin Cushion, "tied to his miss's apron-strings!" 'But where are the rest of us?" called out Scissors Shears. Ha' Hal Ma Chine 147 With that, out sprang all the needles and pins — even a few safety pins Mary Frances had put in one corner of her work box; all the buttons, and all the other little findings; so many, Mary Frances couldn't see where they came from. Then Sewing Bird, who had been looking on with interest, began to sing: "Now, listen here. This must be clear: This Presentation Party Is for our Httle Mistress dear — Look out, there, Mr. Smarty!" as Scissors Shears nearly tumbled off the table. "I will take The lady's place, And you will pass Before my face As when she's here, Our Mistress dear. At our Presentation Party ^*-*^ ^P*^^!!^ ®^' *^^ ^mall ^ndin^c, 148 The Mary Frances Sewing Book "Now, I will make My little speech, Then you can follow One and each — " "Except," interrupted Silver Thimble, "the tiny Tom Thumb Thimble Folks," drawing himself up to his full height. "They only bow — They all know how," said Sewing Bird. "Now, all ready to hear the speech!" "Speech! Speech!" cried the Thimble People. Speech I Sewing Bird began: ►eec U!' Our Mistress dear, Your heart to cheer, We're going to give a party; And we will evermore be true, And everyone of us to you Will pledge allegiance hearty." Sewing Sird beaatterr% ^ or .ca \l R!> 158 The Mary Frances Sewing Book "Now try it on the bands of the dressing sack." ''Good!" as Mary Frances held up the samplers. ''Here is a puzzle, riddle, or conundrum: "Mary Marie is feather-stitched — Yet not a feather is on her." Mary Frances laughed, look in feathers," she said — Then Sewing Bird sang: "I wonder how she'd ''She'd make a fine bird, Upon my word, She'd sing a sweet song, And the only thing wrong — Her feathers and song Would be tightly glued on!" "Oh, Sewing Bird!" laughed Mary Frances, shak- ing her finger, ''how did you know the voice of a 'talking doll' was 'glued on'?" j1C]™pter XXI |(fl]uNT (MJdRm mrtKES a jyJisiT "N OW, one thing more, — A pinafore, We'll make for a doll We almost adore." "A pinafore! — Sewing Bird Lady," exclaimed Mary Frances. ''An apron for Mary Marie?" ''Yes," smiled Fairy Lady, "a big apron which she can use as a dress until you make her some dresses — then she can use it as a ' co ver-me-up ' apron." "Oh, good!" said Mary Frances, "and, dear Fairy Lady, I want to tell you — I've a lovely surprise! My Aunt Maria is coming to see us." "Aunt Maria — oh, does she love sewing?" "Indeed she does! She made a bed quilt when she was — let me see, — maybe — I think — it was when she was two years old." "Tee-hee!" giggled Tommy Pin Cushion. [159] pino/bre lee - <* 160 The Mary Frances Sewing Book d- cnooo r ''Oh, I beg your pardon," he said, pretending he had stepped on Scissors Shears' toes. "A-choooo!" said Needle Book, pretending to sneeze. "She must have been a wonderful child," said Fairy- Lady. ''She was," said Mary Frances, "and the loveliest cook ever! She told me all about it ! She almost knew the Kitchen People." "Well, I'm glad such a delightful person is coming, I'm sure," said Fairy Lady, "but let us have as much done as possible before she gets here. To do to-day's lesson, we have to learn the best way for 32. — Sewing on Buttons 1. Make a pinhole where the button is to be sewed. Thread a No. 7 needle with No. 36 cotton — the cotton double, — and make a knot. 2. From the right side put needle down through the cloth in the pinhole mark, bringing the knot on the right side. The knot is then hidden under the button. 3. Bring the needle partly through near the knot on the right side. 4. Put the button on needle. Draw needle through. 5. Take a stitch down through the opposite hole, and put a pin through this stitch. 3ev/ in«^ on button^ Aunt Maria Makes a Visit 161 6. Sew through the holes, making a cross over the button and pin. 7. Take out the pin. This will loosen the stitches. 8. Bring out the needle from under side of cloth, between the button and cloth. 9. Wind the thread around the stitches under the button three or four times. This allows for the thickness of the button hole. 10. Fasten on the wrong side. In sewing a button with a shank or loop, take several over and over stitches with double thread. If putting on a number of buttons, the button-holes should be made first, and the place for buttons be marked through them. to "When does Aunt Maria arrive?" asked Fairy Lady. "I don't exactly know/' said Mary Frances. ''Oh, I hope — " began Scissors Shears; — then the bell rang. "A lady to see you, Miss," said Katie, coming upr you stairs. ''It's Aunt Maria! It's Aunt Maria!" exclaimed Mary Frances, jumping down the stairs, two steps at a time. "Oh, dear Aunt Maria, how perfectly grand!" kissing the old lady again and again. "Have you had lody Wind thread around ^I'ltchej 162 The Mary Frances Sewing Book lunch? Grandma always takes an outing on Wednes- day afternoons, and she'll be so sorry not to be home to welcome you!" ''But I feel very welcome," laughed Aunt Maria, "and I have had lunch, thank you, my dear." "Then you can come right up-stairs," said Mary Frances, leading the way to the guest-room. After taking off her hat and smoothing her hair, Aunt Maria began: "What are you doing, child, all alone this afternoon — are you often alone? You have no chance to cook here, I imagine." "No, Aunt Maria," said Mary Frances. "I'm very busy, never- the-less." "Busy!" exclaimed Aunt Maria; "and what do you do, pray?" "S'sh! Aunt Maria — it's another secret!" "How lovely!" smiled the old lady "I'm — " standing on tip-toe to whisper into her aunt's ear — "I'm learning to sew." "No?" exclaimed Aunt Maria. "Why, my dear child, how — how can you learn to sew? I know your grand- ma cannot see to teach you — her eyes are too weak." \ Yeel very welcome Aunt Maria Makes a Visit 163 "Aunt Maria," whispered Mary Frances, ''I've some little friends who know all about sewing, who teach me how — but it's a 'dead secret,' and you must never, never, never tell — hope you'll die if you do — will you promise — skull and cross-bones?" ''Mercy! Child!" exclaimed the old lady, "what an awrful vow! But I'll not tell, and if I give my word — " "Oh, I am sure you won't. Aunt Maria, — and — some day I'U be able to tell you all about it." "Is it a book — like the cooking lessons, — that delightful secret? I won't tell." "My!" thought Mary Frances. "Wouldn't Sauce Pan laugh!" "Not exactly like that," said Mary Frances aloud, "and I know you'll never-never tell, Aunt Maria, — but it's a very- very serious secret, for nobody knows — not even Mother." "May I see some of your work, my dear?" "I'll bring some to show you," she said. ''Excuse me, please." She stood on the threshold of the sewing room a moment before entering. All the Thimble People were jumping around in excitement. May I orvour work? riy! wouldnt Sai*ce Ran Uu^h 164 The Mary Frances Sewing Book ''I tell you," tinkled Silver Thimble, ''it's the Aunt!" "It's not!'^ piped the thinnest little voice Mary- Frances had ever heard. "Hello!" exclaimed Scissors Shears. "That's little Common Ordinary Pin! You don't know! You haven't much of a head." "Maybe not," answered the thin voice, "but we have some fine points." "Ha! ha!" laughed Tommy Pin Cushion. "And we're not stuck on ourselves!" "Ha! ha!" laughed Tommy Pin Cushion again. "No," exclaimed Scissors Shears, "you're stuck on Tommy Pin Cushion — such taste!" Mary Frances went into the room. "Oh," said Fairy Lady, "I was afraid you might not be alone." "Mary Frances!" came Aunt Maria's voice from nearby. Every Thimble person fell down where he was, and in a twinkle Fair Lady became Sewing Bird. "I thought I wouldn't trouble you to bring your work to me, so I've foUowed you to the sewing room," I wa«j d/Y-aid^ou m^hi not be alone* 17. fur Lined Cape 27. Rain Coat B u bet S tj £ « 0. o 3 P f; Aunt Maria Makes a Visit 165 said the old lady, ''I thought I heard — I'm quite certain I heard some one talking." ''Oh, my!" thought Mary Frances. ''Goodness!" exclaimed Aunt Maria as they went into the room. "Although I oughtn't to say it — what an untidy room! My dear child, my dear child, every- thing ought to be put in place just as soon as you've used it. It never pays to lay anything down out of place. Here are needles and pins, scissors and needle- book, emery bag, and what not — tumbled over the table, and the work basket on its side! You'll learn better, though, child." There was a strange expression on the little girl's face. "It's rude, Mary Frances, to smile when you're in fault," continued the old lady. "Excuse me. Aunt Maria," said Mary Frances. "I couldn't help it." "Well, I expect it's because you're so glad to see me," said Aunt Maria, leaning back in her chair and rocking. " Never mind, we'll look at your work. Very credit- able, very creditable indeed, child! Such excellent Work ^Ac^Uei on it^ ^'^^ 166 The Mary Frances Sewing Book "Ok flunt Maria! stitches," examining the little samplers, and finally the bath robe and kimono. ''You certainly do take after me. To think that so spoiled a child should develop into such an excellent character! 'Blood will tell!' I've often said it— 'Blood will teU!' What pretty material! By the way, child, where do you get the goods — if this is a secret?" "Oh, Aunt Maria, Mother sent me this Httle trunk full of these pretty things; and this lovely, lovely doll, Mary Marie, to amuse myself with. She said she was so sorry not to be able to show me how to sew, and hopes to, when she comes home. Dear Mother! Won't she be surprised?" "Indeed she will," said the old lady, examining the contents of the trunk. "But," she sniffed, "I am compelled to say less beautiful goods would have answered the purpose. When I was a little girl — well, never mind ! Have you learned to make button-holes?" "I can make the stitch, I think," answered Mary Frances, meekly. "WeU, I'll teach you, child," said Aunt Maria, getting a piece of muslin ready. "Now, let us begin to learn how to make Ind ee witl Aunt Maria Makes a Visit 167 33. — Button-holes All button-holes should be worked in a double fold of cloth. Use for practice, a piece of muslin six inches long and four inches wide. Fold through the center. Turn in and baste along edges. (A) To Cut With button-hole scissors, cut into the goods one quarter of an inch from folded edge. Cut along a thread of the goods to make it straight. Make opening a little longer than the button is broad. For button-hole, use No. 40 cotton, No. 8 needle. Barring and overcasting are often done with a finer thread than that used for the button-holing. (B) To Bar 1. Make a small knot in thread. 2. Put the goods over first finger, left hand — folded edge toward you. 3. At the end of button-hole farthest from folded edge of cloth, insert needle between the double cloth, bringing it out at A. (See picture.) 4. Point needle down at B; bring it out at A. 5. Point needle down at C; bring it out at D. Do this twice. 6. Point needle down at B; bring it out at A. (C) Overcasting Overcast the edge on each side and end of the button-hole, catching the long ''barring" threads. Button -hole ScicQors A e Overcast I nd 168 The Mary Frances Sewing Book (D) Button-hole Stitch 1. With goods over forefinger of left hand, at end of button- hole farthest from the folded edge of the cloth, insert needle between the muslin; pull through, leaving a small end of thread between muslin. 2. At same corner of button-hole, bring needle half way through. Taking both threads hanging from eye of needle between thumb and finger of right hand, pass the thread under the point of the needle, from right to left. Pull needle through, drawing the thread firmly near the button-hole. This forms the purl, which is well adapted to the constant wear upon the button-hole. 3. Repeat until needle is at first stitch taken. (E) Finishing 1. Make barring stitches over the first barring stitches taken. 2. Put needle through these barring stitches, forming the Dutton-Kole blanket or loop stitch, — make several loop stitches and bring S**^cK needle to wrong side. ^ 3. Fasten thread by several small stitches. Note. — If thread is too short to finish button-holing, fasten it on wrong side of material. Enter the new thread on wrong side and bring thread through last button-hole purl, or twisted edge. Aunt Maria gave Mary Frances these directions very slowly, making the little girl do each step as she explained. dMsaa Rn^hed button -hole Aunt Maria Makes a Visit 169 '^No, not that way, child," she would say. ''Sit up straight; place both feet firmly on the floor; hold your sewing high; do not stoop over. That is the correct position while sewing. Throw the thread more carefully. No, not so long a thread — it will tangle . Patience — child ! ' ' "My," exclaimed Mary Frances, "that's the hardest thing I've done yet. Am I very trying to teach?" " WeU," said the old lady, "you might be more so — but that's a real respectable button-hole. But really, child, I must again repeat my lesson to you about neatness. Never leave your sewing room as I found it to-day." "There's Grandma!" exclaimed Mary Frances, looking out the window. "Come, Aunt Maria, let's go down." "Is my necktie straight?" asked the old lady of Mary Frances, taking her hand. ^ that^ the tKind yet "My," said Mary Frances, returning to the sewing room, "aren't they the dear old dears, talking nee kti< ^tra^l \^t?' 170 The Mary Frances Sewing Book together! A cup of tea and those two old ladies — there's nothing under the sun they can't think of — from Noah-and-the-ark to Forever-more! I wonder if I can finish Mary Marie's pinafore. I'm going to make Angle a lot of clothes like Mary Marie's." "WiU the Old Grunt be back?" Scissors Shears was looking up at Mary Frances. "Who?" asked Mary Frances. "The Old Grunt," said Scissors Shears, "fussin' and gruntin' over everything. We looked all right. She scared us — if we hadn't dropped where we were she might have found out about us — and if she'd found out about us — we'd been Never-Nevers." 'You must not call names," said Mary Frances, gravely. ''She is an Old Grunt! So there! It was my work to teach you to make button-holes, and I so wanted to do it!" burst out Button-hole Scissors, excitedly. He spread his funny little legs apart and looked up at Mary Frances most forlornly. "Rip-her-up-the-back! But.ty," growled Scissors Shears. "Be quiet!" exclaimed Mary Frances, "I'm It wa3 my work to teach ^ou Aunt Maria Makes a Visit 171 ashamed of you both! I know it's an awful disap- pointment to you, Button-hole Scissors, but, never mind, you shall help me sometime." ''Magic and Mystery, we must — " ''Yes," said Fairy Lady, smiling, "we must finish the pinafore. Here is Pattern 8. — Doll's Pinafore See Insert II To cut out — 1. Fold goods lengthwise. Place edge of pattern having two rings (go) on this fold. Pin in place. Cut out. 2. Indicate place for straps and pocket by pricking with a pin, through pattern and material. Remove pattern. Run a red basting thread through the pinholes. 3. Cut four straps, and the pocket. To make — Note. — The pinafore is not joined under the arms; therefore, 1. Make a narrow hem along the sides of the front and back. 2. Make a three-quarter inch hem along the bottom of pinafore. 3. Make a tiny clip in the comers of the neck opening. Turn down one-quarter inch along neck on right side. 4. Baste flat against this, one-half inch wide white linen tape.P^ In turning comers, turn the tape completely over. not. j 5. Ends of sleeves, sides of sleeves, and sides and bottom under Qfm^ of pinafore finished in same way. TV>e not ioinecK O \urn t&pi completely ovef 172 The Mary Frances Sewing Book Pocket 1. Make a quarter-inch hem at top of pocket. 2. Turn in edges one-eighth inch. Baste. 3. Pin in place shown on pattern. Hem, or stitch. ^ 1 Pin in place Straps 1. Turn in edges of straps one-eighth inch all around. 2. Baste two straps together, wrong sides facing each other. Overhand, or stitch together. 4. Pin in place as shown by red basting thread, and sew in place through a button. Or, a button may be sewed to the pinafore, and a button- hole worked in each end of the straps. (If this is done, hem a small piece of goods on the wrong side of pinafore under the places for the buttons, so that the pulling of the button will not tear the goods.) "And we'll all help, — if you please." "Thank you, dear Thimble People," said Mary Frances, spreading the pretty gingham on the sewing table. "Work very quickly — I haven't many minutes. I'm so tired, anyhow," and she leaned back in her rock- ing chair. lew ^tr-ap m place tUrou^h a button Aunt Maria Makes a Visit 173 "Mary Frances, Mary Frances, Mary Frances, dear!" called Grandma's voice. "Oh," thought Mary Frances, "I've been asleep. It's twilight, nearly." "Yes, Grandma," she called. "I'll come right down." And she looked on the table expecting to see the gingham spread out, but it was nowhere to be seen. "Look at Mary Marie," whispered Sewing Bird. There sat the proud dolly with the gingham pina- fore all made and buttoned in place. "How, — how?" stammered Mary Frances. "We took her over To Thimble Land; Over to our Fairyland," explained Sewing Bird. " Can I go there some day?" asked Mary Frances. I tWmW you may I think you may, But not to-day; There ^^t x\r\e proud ckpUy 174 The Mary Frances Sewing Book Perhaps you'll go Another day!" sang Sewing Bird. '^Oh, thank you, you dear!" said Mary Frances. ''Come, Mary Frances," again called Grandma. "Why, dear child," she said, kissing the little girl, "it's nearly six o'clock, and we old ladies have been so busy living in the past that we almost forgot the present — that's you." m. m learnina to ^ew . whimpered [Mjary [Pj ranees CjHflPTER XXII [g] |r)uined |D)ress> (( S O the Old Grunt had to go home," said Scissors Shears, standing on one pointed toe. ''Why?" asked Tommy Pin Cushion. "I don't care a tinkle," exclaimed Silver Thimble, ''why she went — I'm only glad we're to have the little Miss to ourselves once more!" "Humph!" exclaimed Ma Chine, "if Sewing Bird were awake, little you'd speak in so cutting a way about an old lady, Scissors!" "Click! CHck! Chckety-click! Rip-her-up-the- back!" snapped Scissors Shears, making across the table. "You old Thread Chewer, you!" he exclaimed, "everybody knows you have wheels in your head! You old Thread Chewer! You — ! You! I double dare you to — " "Zunmi! Zumm! Zumm!" Ma Chine began to whirl. "Oh, what are the comical things going to do,'* thought Mary Frances at the door. "I do hope no harm will be done! I'll wait a minute and see." f 175 ] '\ dont tingle" If* Sewitv^ Bird were ld Fold through the center. Fold again through the center. 3. Place neck-band pattern on the lawn, having the edges which are marked with two rings (oo) each on a fold. 4. Pin in place. Cut out. Open. Make tiny clip in each comer of the neck opening. 5. Cut sleeve-bands of white lawn, with double rings (oo) on fold of cloth. To make — 1. Turn over opening of neck of dress one-eighth inch on right side. Crease, without stretching. Baste. 2. Turn both edges of neck-band down one-eighth inch, on same side of goods. Crease, without stretching. 3. Spread the dress open on the table. Lay neck-band with turned-in edge against tumed-in edge of dress neck. Pin in place. Baste. Stitch; or, overhand and hem, in place. 4. Turn up ends of sleeves, and sew sleeve-bands in place in the same way. 5. Make placket by directions given on next page. Make three button-holes on right hand side. Sew three but- tons on left hand side. 6. Join under-arms with French seams. 7. Make a three-quarter inch hem in bottom of dress. "I'll cut that out quickly," said Mary Frances, pinning the pattern on the goods. Pin necU-bandi in place A Ruined Dress 179 ''Mark the place where the pocket goes," said Fairy Lady. "Why," she exclaimed at length, holding up the little dress, ''the back is just Mke the front, and the neck is too Httle for her head to slip through." "Exactly!" smiled Fairy Lady looking pleased. "You are very observant." "That's a lovely word!" thought Mary Frances. "I'll remember it." "You may now fold the dress lengthwise, and from the neck, cut down the middle of the back four inches, which will make the opening large enough for her head — and learn about 34.— Making a Placket, which is the finished opening of a dress or skirt. 1. Cut one piece of cloth like the dress — two inches wide, and as long as the dress opening. 2. Cut another piece one inch wide and as long as the opening. Fold in half the long way, and crease. 3. On the right hand side of the opening, face the raw edge back on the -svrong side with the narrow piece of cloth. 4. On the left hand side, sew the wider piece of cloth, as if for facing, — but after turning in the edge, fold on the creased middle fold, bringing edge exactly over the first sewing. bacU 13 the /root Extension PUcket 180 The Mary Frances Sewing Book This is an Extension Placket. This piece can be used without folding: then the edge must be hemmed. There should be two rows of stitching across the bottom of the placket to strengthen it On this page are pictures of two other kinds of placket. To make a Hemmed Placket, sew a narrow hem on left side, and broad hem on right hand side. Fold broad hem over narrow, and stitch in place across lower end. A Tape Placket is very useful in making petticoats. Face the opening with jSat tape. Fairy Lady handed Mary Frances a sheet of paper. \'' Where did this come from?" asked Mary Frances. '' It's a fairy paper," answered Fairy Lady. ''That's aUIcanteU." Lj k 'It is beautiful!" said Mary Frances, holding the pi • picture of the plackets in her hand, "Thank you." "Can you tell me what to do next?" asked Fairy Lady. "Yes," answered Mary Frances, "I must work in this order in making my dolly's dresses : ^' Tape PlacUet lape folded l8./l/ternoon Dre e55 20.RrtyD.-e5Cj(see INStRT lO) A Ruined Dress 181 1. Basting of seams. 2. Fitting. 3. Altering, if necessary. 4. Sewing seams. 5. Facing the neck with the fitted facing. — Bastethat on wrong side; then tm-n to the right side; turn in, and hem down. 6. Facings on the sleeves in same way. 7. Pocket hemmed at top. Tm:ned in, and basted in place; stitched in place. 8. Buttons and button-holes. ''That's your week's work/' said Fairy Lady, ''if you finish it for the next lesson, I'll be so proud." "And so Tvill I!" laughed Mary Frances, resolving to work hard. '^Good-day, dear Thimble People." "I'll help her if I dare," said Scissors Shears. "What could you do, now?" asked Tommy Pin Cushion. "You're in disgrace!" "He could only undo," said Needle Book. "That will do!" said Sewing Bird. love ElHdPTERXXllI (XlHe (f)LrtNNCL IPJCT (( D ON'T you want to go with Grandma to-day?" asked her grandmother of] Mary Frances. "Where, Nanny?" inquired the Uttle girl. ''Well," said Grandma, "I'm going to take a trolley ride through the park." "Where the monkeys are?" inquired Mary Frances. "Yes," said Grandma. "I thought you'd like to share my 'afternoon out.' " "I dearly love monkeys," said Mary Frances. "They crinkle up their faces so!" "Come, then," said Grandma, "get your hat!" Mary Frances ran up-stairs. This is what she heard : "I do hope the little lady will have it finished!" "What does she make to-day?" "The flannel pet—" "Oh, good!" [182] V/Uere tVie mom ^£X3 are The Flannel Pet 183 ''That's Silver Thimble," thought Mary Frances. ''Why do you say 'Oh, good'?" asked Scissors Shears. "Because,'^ answered Silver Thimble, *'I know what fun she'll have. I feel closer to my Httle Miss than any of you others can." "Ha!" laughed Tommy Pin Cushion, "but not love her better." "The dear things!" thought Mary Frances, "and I was going to run away! What can a flannel pet be? Is it a flannel cat, or rabbit, or dog?" "Mary Frances!" called Grandma. "Listen, Nanny," said the little girl leaning over the banister, "will you feel much disappointed, dear Nanny, if I don't go? I— I—" "Why, no, my child!" said Grandma. Mrs. Ben- nett is going with me, so I'll have company, but I thought you'd be lonely. Good-bye, dear, — take a nap if you feel Hke it." "Good-bye, Nanny dear," smiled Mary Frances, throwing the old lady a kiss. "She reaUy does spoil me, I fear," she thought. "I never had my own way so exactly before." S 'OU. poa'. Qood^bye, Nannie dear 184 The Mary Frances Sewing Book Mar She dressed Mary Marie in the new morning dress. ''I certainly wish she had some petticoats," thought the little girl, taking her into the sewing room. ''Oh, what fun! I see it's done! Quite in distress, Without this dress. Would be, you see. Our Sweet Marie," sang Sewing Bird, admiring the morning dress. "But the button-holes," said Mary Frances, ''are pretty poor, I must say!" "That's because the Old Grunt taught you — " began Scissors Shears. "Oh, my!" exclaimed Mary Frances. "I forgot! I forgot!" said Scissors Shears. "I did, really and truly! your Seamstress-ship. Will you please forgive me?" "Scissors and Shears Now, change your ears," I wicjh ^Ue had ^on\e petticoat^' The Flannel Pet 185 laughed Mary Frances, and the funny httle long- eared fellow was on the table. ''I'm sure I'll not be able to use you to-day," said Mary Frances, "with those ears." "You tell me what to do," said Scissors Shears, wagging his ears back and forward. "I like my ears. They do not help me work — but I can hear almost anything with them. I can hear what Tommy Pin Cushion is thinking." "Goodness!" exclaimed Tommy Pin Cushion. "You must be most unhappy!" Mary Frances laughed. "What is to-day's lesson?" she asked. Sewing Bird began to sing: "I see you haven't guessed it yet — It's just a little flannel pet. A period after pet. you'll note; It's short for flannel petticoat. Oh, de de dum dum! De-dee-dee! No one could guess it — That I see." lOO do e!>!> ! You mu i!> .t bi mo 15* unl PPJ/ 186 The Mary Frances Sewing Book ''Oh, Magic and Mystery," laughed Mary Frances, "Mary Marie will be dehghted! She seems so chilly these days. I think she will soon be able to say a few words. I tried to think she said 'Ma-ma' to me to- day." "It is lovely to help make things for so sweet a child," smiled Fairy Lady. "That is a great compliment," said Mary Frances, "to her mother." "It isn't only her lovely face," said Fairy Lady; "it's her charming manners." "Oh, thank you!" said Mary Frances, "to a mother who tries to teach the best to her child, that is most pleasing to hear." "There is even more in seeing her mother's manner than in teaching her, I think," said Fairy Lady. Mary Frances blushed with pleasure. "And now," said Fairy Lady, "ready for Pattern 10. — Doll's Flannel Petticoat Suggestions for material, — white woolen flannel. 1. Make a pattern of ordinary wrapping paper. Use a ruler, making the pattern nine and one-half inches long, and five inches wide. Use a ruler The Flannel Pet 187 2. Mark with two rings (oo) and an arrow ( »» > ) as in picture. To cut out — 1. Place end of pattern having two rings, on a lengthwise fold of material. Pin in place. Cut out. To make — (A) Leave one and one-half inches of the seam unsewed, for making of placket. Below this, join seam by 35. — Felling on Flannel A fell is a seam hemmed down to prevent edges from raveling. Note. — To learn to make a fell, use two pieces of flannel, each six inches long, and three inches wide. Practise with these, before attempting the fell on the petticoat. 1. Place the pieces of flannel together, one edge extending one-eighth of an inch beyond the other. 2. Baste a narrow seam. Stitch. 3. Remove the bastings. 4. Turn to other side of goods. With a warm iron, press the seam with wider side covering the narrower. Do not open it. In felling flannel, do not turn the wider part of the seam in, but leave it open, and baste dowTi flat after pressing. Catch-stitch it down instead of hemming. (B) Make a Hemmed Placket. Do not turn flannel twice; but, after pressing, catch-stitch down over the raw edges. I on To cut "flannel petticoat pattern 188 The Mary Frances Sewing Book (C) To Hem Petticoat. 1. Turn up one-quarter inch on wrong side, at bottom of skirt. Baste, and press. Remove bastings. 2. Turn up again on wrong side, three-quarters of an inch, measuring and basting carefully. Press. 3. Feather-stitch in place along top of hem. Remove bastings. (D) Gather the top of petticoat. 1. Cut a notch in the middle of the front of petticoat. 2. Thread needle with No. 40 cotton. Use cotton double. Gather petticoat at top, commencing at notch, gather first in one direction, then in the other. 3. Leave knots in each end of the threads. Make thread a little shorter than the length of the flannel. Note. — This petticoat is not to be sewed to a band; but is attached later, to Doll's Underwaist. Feather ^titcU henn Mary Frances had the Needle-of-Don't-Have-to- Try in her hand, and soon finished the petticoat. ''Good!" exclaimed Fairy Lady. ''Now comes Pattern 11. — Doll's Underwaist See Insert III To cut out — 1. Pin pattern with arrow edge on a lengthwise fold of lawn. Pin on len^thwi^e fold of lawn The Flannel Pet 189 2. Cut two underwaists just alike. 3. Clip a small notch (V) in the exact center of the bottom of each waist. To make — 1. Baste the shoulder seams of one waist together, (a to a; and 6 to 6.) Try on doll. Alter if necessary. 2. Stitch one-quarter inch from the edge. Open and flatten the seams. 3. Turn in edges along the back one-quarter inch. Baste. Turn up bottom of waist one-quarter inch. Baste. 4. Clip several small gashes along the neck. Turn in the edge of neck one-eighth of an inch. Baste. Do the same to the armholes. 5. Do the same to the other waist. 6. Pin and baste the two waists together, wrong sides facing each other. Overhand (or stitch) all edges together, except the bottom, which is left open for the flannel petticoat. 7. To join flannel petticoat to underwaist — Insert gathers of petticoat between the two waists. Pin notches together, and baste in place. Hem down. 8. Sew three buttons on left side of back of waist: one at the neck, one in the center, one at the bottom. Make the button- holes on the other side of back of waist. 9. Sew one button at center front of waist, to fasten the lawn petticoat. Overhand all ed|ge<^ todethev 190 The Mary Frances Sewing Book ''Scissors Shears, do your best," whispered Mary Frances, cutting into the muslin for the dolly's under- waist. She felt Scissors Shears spring in her fingers. ''And now, not a word until it is finished!" • "What darhngs!" she exclaimed, finally, holding up the little underwaist and flannel petticoat. "Are they finished?" asked Fairy Lady, leaning forward in her rocking chair. "Yes, all finished! If it hadn't been for the Needle- of-Don't-Have-to-Try, I'd have been a week doing them, I'm sure," said Mary Frances. ''I'll put them right on Mary Marie," she added, ''she seems so cold." "How must it be. How must it be. To be beloved As well as she?" sang Sewing Bird. "You are, dear Sewing Bird," said Mary Frances. J "Oh, dear little Sewing Bird, indeed, you are!" ood!' exclmmeci [rl^'^y ID^V ElttflPTER XXIV Hhe (w1mit£ is ET "W E'RE not through yet,- There's the white pet. Let's not forget — " ''Oh, I know what the white pet is, Sewing Bird," interrupted Emery Bag. ''It's a white mouse! One of my uncles had a whole side eaten out of him by one of those sweet pets. I won't forget!" "Oh, my! oh, me! Let that be wrote, A mouse is not A petticoat!" sang Sewing Bird. "Oh, you simple thing!" exclaimed Emery Bag. "Why didn't you say 'petticoat,' then?" [191] •Sa ho Oev/inO One of" my uncle^ kad a ^ide eat«n out' 192 The Mary Frances Sewing Book ''If I take time To make a rhyme, A rhyme it then must be: If words won't rhyme At any time — I cut them short, you see," sang Sewing Bird. Then Emery Bag: ''If that is true Then this will do: To Sewing Bird Any old word Will make a rhyme, If shortened hyme. if thax toy true Isn't that beautiful?" ifhen this ''What does 'hyme' mean?" cried Sewing Bird. will > ). 3. To mark tuck — * Maoic and ihanVt^^_^ou , rny dear!' 196 The Mary Frances Sewing Book At one end, measure up two and one-half inches from bot- tom of pattern. Mark with a dot. Do same at other end. Join these marks with a straight Hne. Write along this line the word — tuck. One-quarter inch above this line, draw dotted line. One-quarter inch below tuck line, draw dotted line. To cut out — 1. Pin arrow end of pattern on a lengthwise fold of white dimity or lawn. Cut out. 2. Marking tuck. — With a large pin, prick through pattern and lawn, along the tucking lines, making holes about half an inch apart; or, mark lines with a tracing wheel against a ruler. 3. Cut Band for Petticoat by Pattern 11. See Insert III. To make — 1. Join ends of petticoat with felled seam, making seam but three inche? long, leaving it open above that, in order to make a placket. ^ . 2. In making a placket, use one-quarter of an inch hem on left iractnd hand side, and one-half an inch hem on right hand side. Fold wKeei broad hem over narrow; secure at lower end with two rows of stitching. 3. Make the tuck. holes. 36. — Making Tucks (a) Crease material back along the middle row of pin- XW>CK ^ rn«irU tucU The White Pet 197 (6) Stitch tuck on upper side, sewing through the other rows of pinholes. Note. — In making several tucks, mark in the same way, and proceed in a like manner; but remember to cut the material sufficiently long to allow for the making. 4. Make a three-quarter inch hem at the bottom of petticoat. 5. Gather top in same way as flannel petticoat. 6. Set the gathers into petticoat band, as in making the little "tie around" apron. (See 21. — Setting Gathers in Band.) 7. Make button-holes in band : one in center front, cutting it across the band; and one in each end of band, cutting it in the direction of the length of the band. 8. Overhand half-inch lace edging to the hem. A half yard of edging will be needed. '^And I'm going to shut my eyes and go to sleep while you do it," said Fairy Lady, leaning back in the OverKand rockine chair. i She looked so beautiful, Mary Frances would have liked to kiss her — then just to sit still, and look at her; hem but she thought, ''When she is so dear and kind, and when all the Thimble People want to help me so much, I ought not to loiter." u — M&Ue buiton-KoleQ m band 198 The Mary Frances Sewing Book "I'm here!" said a little tiny voice, and, to be sure, it was Silver Thimble. "And I!"— it was Needle Book. "And I!" — Scissors Shears. "And will you all help?" asked Mary Frances. "I'm so glad! — and then I'U have to do only the new lesson?" "Only the new, — and here's the Needle-of-Don't- Have-to-Try," said Needle Book. "Why, everything's nearly done!" exclaimed the little girl in a few minutes. "What wonderful people the Thimble People are!" "And now," smiled Fairy Lady, "ready for Pattern 13. — Doll's Drawers See Insert IV "I'm here!' ^^ ^^* °."*~ c^'A >k ^' ^^^ arrow edge of pattern to lengthwise fold of goods, O I . clipping notches carefully. Hltle ^tny 2. Remove pattern, and cut another leg just like this voice one. 3. Cut band by pattern of petticoat band. To make — • 1. Make a three-quarter inch hem at the bottom of each piece. \ih/'/^^. v\\\ / \ \ ^ ■Here3 *^e Needle or-dont-Have-to-T^y The White Pet 199 2. Make French seams, or a fell, from bottom of each piece to notch. 3. Make one-eighth inch hem from notch on each side, to top. 4. Gather each piece at top. 5. Pin the end of one narrow hem to double notch (VV) in top of other piece. 6. Pin the center of the then-double material to the center of the band, spreading the fullness of the gathers to the hips and back only — no fullness in front. 7. Make button-hole in right hand end of band. Sew button on other end. Note. — If trimming is desired, — cut two ruffles, each five inches long, and one and one-half inches wide; and learn to make 37. — Whipped Ruffle 1. Hem the lower edge of ruffles, and overhand lace on the hem. 2. Roll the upper edge of the muslin to the right side of goods, as you have rolled paper edges. Do not fold it. Prac- tice rolling paper if the muslin seems difficult to manage. 3. With a No. 6 needle, and No. 40 cotton, overcast the rolled edge, taking the stitches no deeper than the roll. 4. Draw ruffle up to size needed, 5. Fell the two ends of each ruffle together; and overhand the ruffles to the legs of the drawers, sewing into each "whip- ping" or overcasting stitch as nearly as possible. Note. — Fine goods whip more easily than coarse. Whippedi ruffle 7 n f\»t into band 200 The Mary Frances Sewing Book Mary Frances looked at Fairy Lady. "She's sound asleep," she thought, surprise her!" Won't I ''What, all finished?" laughed Fairy Lady. "Where were you, dear Fairy Lady?" asked Mary Frances. "I was here — and tapes and tapes away; — away — away — away in Fairy Thimble Land." SVic ^S ^ ounci ac^leep , — won't 0HdPTER XXV (\fi THE [PJotLY iXlft*-*^ 6i s AY, are you a really-person? Say, I say, are you real? You look so swell and so beauti- ful, — can you talk? — say, can you? I wonder if I can touch you, you pretty Mary Marie." Scissors Shears took a step nearer the doll. ^'My, I wish you could talk! I'd like you to hold this muslin for me while I cut out your rompers. What! You won't talk? You just sit looking at me — Stupid! You must think I want something to do! Humph! I wouldn't be a doll, no! ''I wouldn't be a dolly, a dolly, a dolly! I'd rather be a polly, a polly, a polly! For a dolly can't talk. And a polly can talk; And a dolly can't walk, And a polly can walk; I wouldn't be a dolly, a dolly, a dolly! I'd rather be a polly, a polly, a polly. ^^ [201] J *You '|V3* v3*^ JooUincL fii tne — feiupid** 202 The Mary Frances Sewing Book '' 'Pretty Poll!' she can say— 'Pretty Doll!'— try it! Say, please try it, Mary Marie! Try it! I say! Doll, try it! If you don't, you'll be sorry! Say 'Pretty Doll!' say it! I say; or, — I'11-cut-your-acquaintance; — then what '11 you do? "pretty "You won't get your rompers — maybe; "You won't get your bloomers — ^maybe; "You won't get your pajompers — maybe. "Oh, you make me tired, you pretty, proud, sweet, lovely-looking thing! Speak, I say, speak! Say 'Bow-wow-wow!' if you can't talk, or even say 'Meow!' "I'll give it up, I guess. My, I should think she'd be ashamed not to thank us at all for her fine clothes." n e£i«,e try it , Mary MsirM Can the Dolly Talk 203 "Oh, she's only a baby!" said Tommy Pin Cushion. ''Babies can't talk!" "Humph, I s'pose you know, 'cause you're a cry- baby!" exclaimed Scissors Shears. "I'm not a cry-baby!" exclaimed Tommy Pin Cushion. "Yo' are! Yo' are!" cried Scissors Shears. "I can prove it!" "I'm not! Am I, Sewing Bird, — am I?" asked Tommy Pin Cushion, the tears roUing down his fat red cheeks. "If you could see yourself, you'd know you are I" snapped Scissors Shears. "Look out there, don't fall!" cried Yard Stick, seeing Scissors Shears toppling dangerously on the table edge. "Oh, look out yourself," snapped Scissors Shears, "you're just as likely to — " "I always stand firmly on my three feet," retorted Yard Stick. "It takes a whole yard to hold them — ha-ha!" laughed Scissors Shears. Then interrupted Sewing Bird, singing: v m not a c»-y-baby'. 204 The Mary Frances Sewing Book vome come! You're ^^\\ in "Come, come! You're all in fun — So why get mad, And make all sad? The little Miss may hear — So,- Tommy, dry up every tear. And, Thimble, sheath your little spear, And, Scissors, don't you act so queer. Or else your Mistress may appear." Just at that moment in stepped Mary Frances, who had heard every word. The Thimble People looked silly; but she pretended not to notice. "Oh, my dear Magic and Mystery," she said, "to-day I had another letter from my mother, and she says: " Terhaps you can try to learn a few stitches from the patterns I send you by mail, and you can send me the samplers you make. They will be Sewing Lessons by Mail, and we'll pretend you are taking a Correspondence Course.' 'Oh, Sewing Bird Fairy Lady, — if it doesn't seem a trifle dis-re-spect-a-ble, — I mean dis-re-spect-ful. "S ew ail Can the Dolly Talk 205 — my mother's stitches aren't as nice as mine! Look!" Mary Frances held up the sampler. "I want to know what is the right thing to do, Fairy Lady, I would love to surprise my dear mother when I get home; and yet I don't want to deceive her by not telling her that I know something about sewing. What shall I do?" Fairy Lady smiled thoughtfully. "You might tell her you have a little friend who — " "Excuse me — friends!" corrected Silver Thimble. " 'Friends,' " repeated Fairy Lady, "who taught you a little about sewing. It would make your mother happy, I should think." "Yes!" nodded Mary Frances. "Of course, that's right! And I will feel much nearer to my mother then, and can tell her some day. Do you know, Sewing Bird Fairy Lady — I would, — even as much as I love my dear Grandma, — I would be ex-ceed- ing-ly lonely without my Thimble People." ''Lottie, who lives across the street," she went on, "is lots of fun. I want to teach her to sew some day — may I, Fairy Lady?" Fairy L^^ ' Uoitie ^ loi ►/ ru 206 The Mary Frances Sewing Book ''Oh, to be sure," said Fairy Lady, ''after you have finished with us." "But I don't want you to be Never-Nevers!" said Mary Frances. "Perhaps there'll be a way," suggested Fairy Lady. "How delightful!" exclaimed Mary Frances. "Oh, I want to show you the pillow cover I bought to-day for Billy." "How lovely!" exclaimed Scissors Shears, Silver Thimble, Needle Book, Tommy Pin Cushion, and Emery Bag, all at once. "Yes, isn't it? Let me read you his letter:" Woodcraft Camp. Dear Mary Frances: Glad to hear Grandmother is well. Say, I wish you knew how to sew! Some of the fellows have the swellest sofa pillows on their cots. May-he youHl learn some y day. Mother wrote me about the lessons she wants to give you by mail. It's a rattling good idea. (7 crossed out ''rattling" because we're not encouraged to use slang.) See you in September. So long! Good-bye, Billy. Tor B.1I ' H ow d © Jjri htili I \ Can the Dolly Talk 207 "So you see, Fairy Lady, it is almost absolutely necessary for me to learn to sew." "On buttons," said Needle Book. Mary Frances laughed. "Yes, that was a neces- sity, and I suppose the pillow is a luxury, but I am so pleased that I can make it. See, it has a flag to be worked in red, white, and blue." "How—?" began Needle Book. "Why, same as I did the kittens on the doll's apron," said Mary Frances. "Of course!" smiled the Fairy Lady. "And you don't need help with it! fine! The sooner we finish the lesson, - Scissors Shears. ' ' Hush ! ' ' said Fairy Lady, holding up her bodkin wand. Scissors Shears feU down. "Excuse me!'' he exclaimed. "Oh, yes," said Mary Frances. "What is to-day's lesson, please? I'm wasting time!" "Well," smiled Fairy Lady, "it doesn't matter so much now, — for the King of Thimble Land sent you this package, saying to read the instructions and to ask me any questions you wish at next lesson, if you Isn't that — " began Hov/— ? Needle BooW Exc uG^e fr* e / 208 The Mary Frances Sewing Book Th« metot Bird "-^ do not understand — and he will give you the greatest honor ever bestowed upon a little girl — he will — " ''Lend you — even when not in lessons — the Needle- of-Don't-Have-to-Try," finished Needle Book, bowing before Mary Frances. "Oh, please bear to His Majesty my gratefulest gratitude!" said Mary Frances, wondering if that were the right way to send a message to a King. ''Oh, my goodness!" screamed Fairy Lady, turning almost white. "There's a cat!" And she immediately changed into the metal sewing bird on the edge of the table. "It's only Jubey!" laughed Mary Frances, "Aunt Maria sent her to me for fear I'd be lonely. I'll never let you come here again, Jubey,'' she said, picking up the kitten. Then she opened the package from the King of Thimble Land, and this is what she found: Pattern 14. — Doll's Rompers See Insert IV To cut out — 1. Fold goods crosswise. Lay pattern with edge having two rings (oo) on the fold. 1"*^ ^"J^y ^JubeyV Can the Dolly Talk 209 2. Pin in place. Cut out. 3. With a large pin, prick through the rows of pinholes marked FRONT. Or use a tracing wheel. 4. Remove pattern. — Spread the rompers open on a table. Cut one end of rompers off, along the rows of pinholes. To cut Neck Band — Cut a piece of white lawn ten inches long and five inches wide. 5. Fold lawn crosswise. 6. Fold lawn lengthwise. Pin. 7. Place pattern with both the edges having double rings (go) on folded edges of lawn. Pin in place. Cut out. To cut Belt- Cut a piece of lawn fourteen inches long, and four inches wide. Fold lengthwise, and crosswise. 8. Pin pattern with both edges having double rings (oo) on a fold of lawn. Cut out. 9. Cut sleeve-band with double rings on crosswise fold of lawn. To make — 1. Turn in both edges of the neck-band one-eighth inch. Baste. 2. Lay rompers fiat upon table, and pin and sew neck-band in place in the same way as in Morning Dress. 3. Fold rompers lengthwise. From the neck, cut a placket down the fold five inches. Be certain to cut placket in the hack of the rompers. The back is longer from the neck line than the front. CATOS^M^/^e. '^ Run ela^iic m the hem 210 The Mary Frances Sewing Book To moUe Belt 4. Make placket as in Morning Dress. Fasten with buttons and button-holes. 5. Join rompers under arms with French seam. 6. Join curved edges with French seam. 7. Make a half-inch hem at end of each leg. Leave the hem open one-half inch at the top. Through this opening run a narrow elastic. After joining ends of elastic, finish the hemming. 8. If desired, cut a pocket by the pattern of the pinafore- pocket. (See Insert II.) Sew in place on left side of rompers in position shown by dotted lines on pattern. 9. To Make Belt. — Clip a tiny gash between the two points at each end of belt. Turn in outer edges of belt one- quarter inch. Fold belt in half lengthwise. Stitch or overhand the edges. Make button -hole in one end. Sew button on the other end. Sew belt in place in middle of back of rompers — as shown on pattern. Sew to the button-hole side of rompers. Pattern 15. — Doll's Bloomers See Insert III 1. Cut by pattern of rompers, — jnaking only as long as the line marked bloomers. 2. Make in same way as rompers. 3. Make a half-inch hem in the top. Run elastic in the hem and fasten off in same way as ends of legs of rompers. TacU ^vv*ap undor 22./1utomobile Bonnet 24.l^utf \m f/ I' '■! 24 .Tippet 28.R>lo Cai w\r~ LU ^-■\ do UJ Z 1 * / 00 -i- o • \ , /I CM ; f C4 ■— < CM 00 H / L ^ COS o r- Z A s •- GL o /^ \ S!^ 3 ^^ ^ >— < M 2 [ m "^^9 ^^:^^>^JA l^S _^^^^^^>< We little jtt^rl rnade everything /) ftr> the IKiind c^ent *~^ li (K]in^ ^ent ==^ 0MPTER XXVI 01 E^*^ IQlNEO (CjaPE FOR (Pj^lRTlEa '*^ CAN'T wait! I simply cawn't!" Mary Frances I paused at the door. It was Scissors Shears -^ again. ''Pray, why 'cawn't' you?" mimicked Tommy Pin Cushion. 'Ah, don't you know? To-day's lesson is so ^el-e-gan-tis-si-mus!' " "What do we make — I mean what do we help make?" asked Tommy Pin Cushion. "Our livings, of course," clicked Scissors Shears. "Oh, you simple, silly old sharp-tongued — !" "There, there, that will do!" said Scissors Shears; ''ask Sewing Bird." "What do we make, Sewing Bird, please?" asked ur livirvg Tommy Pin Cushion. "I didn't hear." oK cource" "A pretty thing Of funny shape — 212] "V/Kat dio vye maUe A Fur-lined Cape for Parties 213 A dainty, party Fur-lined cape," sang Sewing Bird. ^'Oh, ho! Hee-hee!" laughed Scissors Shears. ''I bet we'll have to use Jubey." ''What for?" asked Tommy Pin Cushion. "For the fur," said Scissors Shears. "I guess not, I guess not," said Mary Frances stepping into the room. ''Use Jubey! I'd rather Mary Marie would never have a fur-lined cape, Magic and Mystery!" "Of course," said Fairy Lady. "Oh, of course! By the way, — ^where is that cat?" "She's down-stairs," said Mary Frances, "hunting ^^ mice in the cellar. Grandma asked me to let her be Oubey* there." "That's aU right," said Fairy Lady, "I feel a little more comfortable to know she is more interested in mice than in birds, at present. You see, she seems to birds very much as lions do to people." "I'll take good care that she doesn't come up- I bey' Hunting mice in "the ceUar 214 The Mary Frances Sewing Book stairs again, dear Fairy Lady," said Mary Frances. "But do I really need fur for to-day's lesson?" "Have you any fur in Mary Marie's trunk?" asked Fairy Lady. "No," said Mary Frances. "That is one thing that isn't here." "What is that?" asked Fairy Lady, peering into the trunk. "Is it very thick white outing flannel?" "Yes," said Mary Frances, holding up the soft, fleecy material. "Good!" laughed Fairy Lady. "Good! Now, fetch a bottle of ink and a big toothpick." "What in the world?" thought the little girl. "I will show you how to make 'near-ermine' fur," said Fairy Lady, dipping the broad end of the large toothpick into the ink, and making black tail-like marks on the flannelette. "Oh, how sweet!" exclaimed Mary Frances. ''Isn't it pretty?" said Fairy Lady. "This is for the lining. What will the outside of the cape be?" "Here is some heavy blue silk," said Mary Frances. "Lovely!" exclaimed Fairy Lady. "You can cut out the cape, then pin it to the flannelette, and cut out Bottle » » » ) edge of collar pattern on a lengthwise edge of goods. 4. Cut two belts, with double rings on a lengthwise fold of material. 5. Cut two sleeve-bands by sleeve-band pattern of Morning Dress (Pattern 9). 6. To Cut Skirt Trimming Band. — Remove pattern from Iwo iucU«j edcV> G^ide cent^-r* A ''Dress-up" Dress 221 dress. Spread open the skirt part. Lay it upon the plain trim- ming material. Pin in place. 7. Cut off at edge of skirt. Make this band one and one-half inches wide. Cut two such bands. To Make Dress— 1. Join seams of skirt trimming-band. 2. Stitch sleeve-bands in place, as for Morning Dress. 3. Make placket and make button-holes, and sew on buttons. 4t. Join underarm with French seams. 5. Face (right side of) bottom of dress with skirt trimming- band in the following way: "Facing" is making a false hem. On the wrong side of the skirt, lay the skirt trimming-band with the lower edge even with the bottom of the skirt. Baste. Stitch one-quarter inch from edge. 6. Remove bastings. Turn band over to right side. Crease along the seam. Baste along the seam. Turn in edge of trimming-band (or facing) one-quarter inch. Baste band flat against dress. Stitch (or hem) in place. 7. Make each belt in same way as belt for rompers. 8. Make two collars in same way as collar for fur-lined cape. Pattern 17. 9. Sew collars fast to dress, first pinning notch to the fold- crease of the shoulder at the neck. Attach collars to dress in same way as underwaist to flannel petticoat. 10. Pin belts in place shown on pattern. Fasten each belt Sew beK ihrou n<3L Bird Mary Marie Has a Party Dress 233 n sang Sewing Bird, — and perhaps, the little bird 1 smiled. • •••••• ruMm 1 This is how the dress looked when Mary Frances /< w/gJfffff/jVUIIill had finished it. ane I 13 Ooin<^ Xq a party Oh.m jiy /cather C3 I OmpterXXIX IRjaRY (M|aRIE QOES jflJuTOMOBILINQ '^ ^'■^H, my feathers and oh, my eye!" Sewing Bird 1 1 was screaming, as Mary Frances came to ^■^ the sewing room door for the next lesson. "Why, what's the matter, Sewing Bird?" asked Mary Frances. "Not for myself, but quite contrary — 'Twas for the sake of Dick Canary!" sang Sewing Bird frantically. "Why, what is the matter, dear little bird?" again asked Mary Frances. Sewing Bird replied: "While I was sitting here in state, Just what happened I'll now relate : "A gentle scratching at the door, A gentle foot-step on the floor, [234] V/Wy, what3 the matter^ Mary Marie Goes Automobiling 235 Then Jubey, black as a blackberry, Looked up at pretty Dick Canary, And what he said, to me seemed clear: — > 'Ah, bird, your voice is very dear! Your feathers shine like purest gold As in the sun they do unfold; Oh, sing to me, you lovely thing. Oh, sing and sing and sing and sing!' ' Then Dick Canary hurt his throat, He sang so loud on every note. 'Now, people love to eat of chicken — If I stole one, I'd get a lickin', And then you'd hear an awful scream — "Why don't you give that cat ice-cream?" A chicken and a bird to me Seem much alike — do they to thee? How classic is your pretty voice, I love to hear you make that noise. Oh, sing to me, you lovely thing, Oh, sing and sing and sing and sing/ 'Dick Canary Inurl hiQ ^h, bird, voor voice Ic^ \fGry de^rV 236 The Mary Frances Sewing Book He san^ eo loud on every noie ''Then Dick Canary hurt his throat, He sang so loud on every note. '' 'Music has charm to soothe, I believe. The wild instincts that in me breathe. How horrible your lonely fate, To be behind that golden gate. If I for you undo the bars. Perhaps you'll soar beyond the stars. Where go birds-souls — I really wonder — It makes me sit and sit and ponder. Oh, sing to me, you lovely thing, Oh, sing and sing and sing and sing.' "Then Dick Canary hurt his throat He sang so loud on every note. ■' 'If I undo the bars for thee. And from the cage thy sweet life free — Well, folks love chicken, this I know — Are you a chicken? Yes! I trow!' "Just then, I heard you on the stair, Dear Miss, and cried out, then and there; I V^eard^^oM on ihe^iair* Mary Marie Goes Automobiling 237 Not for myself— but quite contrary — 'Twas for the sake of Dick Canary." "1 met Jubey scudding into the kitchen," laughed Mary Frances, '^frightened to death, — she looked. I can't understand howlshe got up-stairs. Magic and Mystery. I said to her : ' Jubey, you'll get no sympathy from me if you've been up-stairs.' " ''The strange part is," said Fairy Lady, "that Dick Canary seemed to like it." "'Flattery sounds Sweet to the ear, Even from those We ought to fear,' my Grandma says," replied Mary Frances. "Oh, yes," said Fairy Lady. "I do believe that "Dick is so; now, for to-day's plans." ^ "This time," said Mary Frances, rather shame- s_x facedly, "it is a real event. Mary Marie has been ^^^*"ea w invited to take an automobile ride with Lottie's ten liUe it" children." TVm5 ^•"^c »*^ ^5 «i real event* 238 The Mary Frances Sewing Book ''Oh, how delightful!" exclaimed Fairy Lady, ''and so opportune!" "Opportune," thought Mary Frances. "Oppor- tune — that must mean 'just right.' " "Yes," nodded Fairy Lady, as though reading her thoughts, "it is 'just right' — ^for I have to-day the Pattern 21. — Doll's Automobile Coat See Insert VII To cut out — 1. Fold goods crosswise. Pin pattern with edge having two rings (oo) on fold. Cut out. 2. Remove pattern. Spread coat open on a table. 3. Cut pattern along the one row of pinholes marked front. (See Directions on Insert VII.) Fold pattern backward along the other row of pinholes. 4. Pin pattern in place on one end of coat. 5. Cut neck along the V-shaped lines. Remove pattern. 6. Cut goods open from point of V-shaped neck, to bottom of coat. This makes the front-opening. 7. Cut two collars with edge of pattern having the two rings (oo) on lengthwise fold of material. 8. Cut two cuffs with edge of pattern having two rings (oo) opportune^, on lengthwise fold of material. lh«3t mu^i mean ju3i rid tit Mary Marie Goes Automobiling 239 To make- 1. To face the front-openings: — Spread coat open upon a piece of the material of which it is made, right sides facing. 2. Baste along front-opening, and around the neck, through the material underneath. Cut open the underneath-material, along the opening of the coat. 3. Cut underneath-material off, one and one-half inches from edge of front-opening and around the neck. 4. Stitch facing in place one-quarter inch from edges. Remove bastings. Turn facings over to wrong side. Baste edge, along enclosed seam. 5. Closely notch, or "pink" the "raw" edges of facings. Baste facings down along notched edges. Press. Stitch (or "tack") facings down near the notched edges. 6. Baste facings on ends of sleeves, on wrong side of coat. Stitch one-quarter inch from edge. Remove bastings. 7. Turn facings over to right side, and baste along the turned edges. Turn down one-quarter inch at top, and stitch »pS* down. 8. Join coat under arms with French seams. 9. Make collar as for Fur-lined Cape. 10. Matching notches carefully, baste collar on coat, and sew in place as in making Fur-lined Cape. 11. Make a three-quarter inch hem at bottom of coat. 12. Fasten coat with two large buttons and button-holes. ^*23^Jy notch edo,ec^ of^ ^cin^^ 240 The Mary Frances Sewing Book Pattern 22. — Doll's Automobile Bonnet See Insert VIII To cut— 1. Fold goods lengthwise. Pin pattern with edge having two rings (oo) on the fold. Clip the notch carefully. 2. In cutting Bonnet Band and lining: — Pin pattern with edge having two rings (oo) on a lengthwise fold of material. ribbon sjlnn e33 To make — 1. One-quarter inch from edge, gather circular part of bonnet from notch in center back to notch in center front. Gather other side of circle. 2. Baste lining to Bonnet Band. Stitch one-quarter inch from front edge. 3. Remove bastings. Open the band. Join ends in a plain seam. Fold lining down inside band, and baste along the circular seam. Stitch one-quarter inch from edge. 4. To Join Band to Bonnet: — Proceed just as in attaching collar to Fur-Lined Cape. First pin single center-front notch of bonnet and of band together. Then the double notches. Then single center-back notch of bonnet to seam of band. Baste and sew in place, hemming down the lining. Attach ribbon-strings at the double notches. Qather -from noicb to noicb Mary Marie Goes Automobiling 241 Note. — Trim bonnet with bunch of ribbon-rosette flowers, sewed on left side. Fold back the bonnet band through the middle. (See dotted line on pattern.) ''My dear Thimble People!" exclaimed Mary Frances, after working a long while with the Needle- of-Don't-Have-to-Try. ''Never did a child have such lovely friends — never! Look at this dear little coat!" "We love all children who are patient, and try to do their best!" smiled Fairy Lady. "So many are forgetful, or impolite and impatient." "I'm afraid Fm sometimes all of those," said Mary Frances. "But in your very down-deep heart, You never think the things that smart; Your heart is really always kind — Sometimes you're wrong, and sometimes blind, — But those who know you well, know this: To make all right, you give a kiss — Not just an ordinary kiss- It says, 'Please just forgive me this!' " ■Thicj dear little coot" Trim bonnet with ribbon- r«g^e ti:e ^owejr^ •^ 242 The Mary Frances Sewing Book "And that is why you are loved so much!" Sewing Bird sang. Mary Frances took Mary Marie, all dressed in her new automobile clothes, out to the automobile which had just pulled up in front of the door. And Scissors Shears, and Tommy Pin Cushion, and Emery Bag, and Pen Cil, and Needle Book, and all the other Thimble People, waved their cunning little hands. rance^ took [MJary [M|arie out to tWe automobile -/a. SHdPTEflXXX (\R\ ^aaiE QOES IN im^THINQ MARY FRANCES tip-toed into the sewing room. '^S'sh! s'sh!" she said. Oh, Thimble People, I've, — oh, dear me ! Oh, Magic and Mystery, — I've got the bath-tub half full of water. It's the ocean, I have my sail-boat on it, and Mary Marie is going in bathing — when I've finished my lesson. I just dipped her feet in to see how she'd like it — I can't exactly say Grandma would approve — but Mother would let me, I think. ''Isn't it strange? My grandmother — my mother's mother — doesn't think exactly as her Uttle girl, my mother, does. Now, I generally always think almost exactly what my mother thinks is right." '''Generally always almost exactly,'" whispered Scissors Shears to Tommy Pin Cushion. "That's the way I agree with Sewing Bird." "And you, Tommy Pin Cushion?" asked Emery Bag. [243] *flncl^< ou . lorn O P, n Cujh •or> 244 The Mary Frances Sewing Book Bathinrf 3uii O "And I — " began Tommy Pin Cushion. ''Hush up!" said Scissors Shears. ''You're always stuck in! You keep quiet, nobody gets a chance to talk for you!" Tommy Pin Cushion got very red in the face. ''It — seems — to — me, — " he stammered. "Yes, there you go again!" exclaimed Scissors Shears. "Just as I said! Always forever trying to stick your bill in — though I must say — you haven't much of a bill — I must say that!" "Stop quarrehng!" exclaimed Mary Frances. "If Mary Marie goes in bathing," said Fairy Lady, "here is just the thing she'll need: Pattern 23. — Doll's Bathing Suit 1. The Bathing Suit is made by the pattern of Rompers (see Insert IV) and of 2. Doll's Lawn Petticoat. (See Pattern 12.) Cut skirt only five inches long, and do not make a tuck. Suggestions for Material — Red or blue flannel, trimmed with white braid. Note. — The skirt may be gathered or plaited. Make the opening of the rompers in front. Face the front openings with a strip of lining material one-half inch wide. Tommy Pio Cu^V^ion q^ \ r^ci ir% the -face 16. L( -%M °±I (CItopterXXXIV (W)hfiT VrtS IN THE (Fj^kRY (BJflQ T HESE are the things Mary Frances found in the bag in Mary Marie's suit case when she got home: Pattern 27. — Doll's Rain Coat See Insert V Note. — Make rain coat about an inch longer than cape. To cut out — 1. Cut out by pattern of Fur-Uned Cape. In the fronts, cut open the Arm Flap Opening. Do not cut a collar. 2. Cut hood, having arrow edge ( »» > ) of pattern on lengthwise fold of goods. 3. Cut four arm flaps. To make — 1. Make in same way as Fur-lined Cape, but without a lining. Press seams open. 2. Before joining shoulder seams, face fronts back as in making. Automobile Coat. 3. Pin two arm flaps together, right sides facing. [269] Rain Coal Pin -two arm "flop^ togetViet* 270 The Mary Frances Sewing Book Drav/ up to ^t head Stitch one-eighth inch from all edges except the arrow edge ). Turn inside out. Baste along the stitched edges. Stitch along the basted edges. 4. Sew to flap-opening in position shown by dotted lines on pattern. As in putting on a band, stitch first through a single thick- ness of open edge of flap. Turn; baste and hem down other edge. 5. Overhand closely and blanket-stitch the under edge of flap opening. 6. Make a very narrow hem around the circular edge of hood, or line with plaid silk. 7. Three-quarter inch from edge of hood (see dotted line on pattern) run a gathering thread of very coarse cotton. Do not draw up the gathers. 8. Make a three-quarter inch hem in bottom of coat. 9. Matching double notches carefully, pin the hood to the coat, with wrong sides facing each other. Join hood to coat with French seam. 10. Try coat on doll. Draw up and fasten the gathers of hood to fit head. Pattern 28. — Doll's Polo Cap See Insert VIII To cut— (Material: white corduroy.) 1. Cut four pieces like pattern of Polo Cap. 1^ st»^c^^^ racing What Was in the Fairy Bag 271 2. Cut a bias strip of goods, two and one-half inches wide, twelve and one-half inches long. To make — 1. Beginning at the point, baste sections of cap together, right sides facing each other. Match the notches. Stitch each seam. 2. Join ends of bias strip or band, in a plain seam. 3. Turn in one edge of band one-quarter inch. 4. Turn cap wrong side out. /^ Baste other edge of band to the edge of cap, having the right f" ^ "o sides of band and cap facing. U % "^ 'A In doing this work, stretch edge of bias band a little. /. *.'*/■' A 5. Stitch one-quarter inch from edge. \£\ Y'l "f A 6. Turn band or facing up on wrong side. /#«v'^.\ f-'^?\ Baste and hem in place. ^^^^a^^^^^i^iii/ (See dotted line on pattern.) 7. Turn cap right side out. Turn up faced edge of cap on outside, nearly the full width. ocalloped Pattern 29. — Doll's Wedding Dress edrie or Note. — Cut and make a guimpe of lace. (Pattern 19.) lace xor' Do not use bands for sleeves, but cut sleeves narrower than _ g^K pattern, and place the scalloped edge of lace at ends of sleeves. G^leevec urn -facing up on >vro n F'»N»&He.Q L.&cite^' V/ork Ba^ 274 The Mary Frances Sewing Book belt de^idi Do the same to the other side. "Tack" the center of the upper part of the folded edge of the flap to the single thickness lying just beneath. Do same to other side 6. Make a small "box" plait (or double plait) in each single thickness of handkerchief at top. 7. Sew the plaits together, and fasten a loop between the plaits. Finish bag with two little cotton balls, sewed to the lowest point. This makes a many-pocketed bag, and would be a pleasing Christmas gift to your mother. Pattern 31. — Ladies' Belt 1. Buy belting which is sold by the running yard. 2. Embroider the design given on this page upon the belt. Trace design through carbon paper; or transfer by tracing through tissue page, and turning the picture face-down on the material; trace picture again on wrong side. Pattern 32. — Babies' Bib 1. Buy smallest size " huck-a-back " towel. 2. Embroider on it the cross-stitch design given on this page. 3. Through tracing paper, copy outline of neck given on this page. Cut out pattern. 4. Fold towel through center lengthwise. Cut neck by pattern. CroQ^ StitcW pattern a9.Wecld[ind Drey^ O O a z o o c/) LU or o ON o Z ,o_o__o oooo oooooooooooooooooooo ^, ^: J, What Was in the Fairy Bag 275 5. Bind neck with cotton or linen tape, leaving ends long enough to tie. Pattern 33. — Girls' Collar 1. Trace pattern of collar through tissue or transfer paper. Cut out. 2. Place pattern Avith double ring (oo) edge on a lengthwise fold of linen. 3. Trace design on collar. 4. Embroider scallops with close blanket stitches. 5. Embroider rings with close " over-and-under " stitches — Satin Stitch. 41. — French Hemming on Damask For folding table linen or damask, fold and crease a very- narrow hem, then fold the hem back on the right side, and over- hand the edge thus folded. Press open on right side. Note. — Or, run through the hemmer of the sewing machine, <&' having the needle unthreaded, using a very fine stitch : proceed as above. 42. — Darning Stockings 1. In learning to dam, it is well to use a piece of flexible card board, three and one-half inches long by three inches wide. 2. With a large needle, puncture it three-quarters of an inch from the top, and three-quarters of an inch from the bottom, making holes one-eighth of an inch apart. Collar pi&ttem THEM JOIN /V.TOA 276 The Mary Frances Sewing Book 3. Use zephyr, in a tapestry needle, and work as in picture on this page. 4. Weave, with a contrasting shade of zephyr, in and out of the long stitches already taken. Cut a hole in a piece of muslin: draw edge together with the fingers, and darn with cotton thread as above. Stockings are darned in the same way. In actual darning never use a knot. Darnin^\\iV\v'' '5'. -: '-^^r.^" :£^^S^'- "^bv^ o'.^?;^^'- '^^^«' ''^m^>^\ ^^A ^"^^^ '. "^o^ " -^^.^ >0^ .0- -^ •.,,. ^^T ^*.,^* :WM% %.J' :'M£'. V.<.« • \r»9' VV °-^4^' * Ay r>v • tVifCiiffe.*- "***> .<*:•' ^*^ .^ C> *T^^J»^,* ,^'P ■q. '*.T^' ^0 ••♦ '* cv. i ♦ V «>>^, -^ "/ J" '.♦ J^ n/.^-^ '— '*. ^^^ .v^ '^*