TT 530 .M5 Copy 1 Merz's Practical Cutting System for Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks [1 Art and Science of Delineating Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks as made by Tailors [1 WILLIAM MERZ. of New York Author and Publisher c^"" A^^ <^.^^^ Copyrighted, Nineteen Hundred and Eleven by William Merz ©CI.A28;J374 INDEX PART I. Index 3-4 Title 1-2 Preface 5 PART II. Introduction 7 Measuring 8-9 PART III. Drafting 10 Capes — With Two Darts and Storm Collar 64-65 Full Cape and Hood 62-63 Opera Cloak 66-67 Collars — Collarette 64-65 Marine Collar 60-61 Shawl Collar 56-57 Standing Collar 28-29 Stand and Turnover Collar 54"55 Storm Collar 5--53 Turn Collar 50-5 1 Turn Collar, Closed in Front 5S-59 Inverness 58-59 Jackets — Eton 26-27 Frock and Skirt 38-41 Hunting, Two Pieces 50-51 Marine Blouse and Skirt 60-61 Tight-Fitting, One Dart 12-17 Tight-Fitting, Two Darts 18-19 Tight Back and Semi-Fitted Front, One Seam Over Shoulder 20-2 1 Tight-Fitting, Two Seams Over Shoulder 22-23 Tight-Fitting, Three Seams Over Shoulder 24-25 Small Waist, Flat Back and Full Bust 30-3 1 Corpulent, Round Back, Two Underarm Pieces .... 32-33 Three-Ouarter, Tight-Fitting, Three Pieces 54-55 INDEX. Laying Out 70 Long Coats — Tight-Fitting 42-43 Two Pieces 56-57 Three Pieces 44-45 Riding Frock , 38-39 Sleeves — Plain Coat Sleeve 34-35 Enlarged Bottom 35 Enlarged Top 36-37 Raglan Sleeve ^8-4Q Yoke Sleeve 46-47 Styt.es — Cut-Off Lapels 38-39 Double-Breasted Jacket 52-53 Fly-Front Jacket 50-51 Single-Breasted Jacket, With Dart Line to the Arm- liole 54-55 Two-Piece Long Coat With Yokes 46-47 Table of Proportionate Measures 68-69 Waist Coat, Two Darts 28-29 PREFACE This system was in practical use for many years before it was published in book form, and made certain and convenient for obtaining correct patterns without the uncertain aid of time-wasting and misleading measures. Having had many years of practical experience in cutting and pattern drafting and a wide acquaintance with the needs of the trade, it lias been, therefore, my effort to produce just such a system, scien- tific and simple, for the needs of the cutters, and leave nothing to perplex or confuse the student. With this system it is possible to cut exceptional sizes easily and accurately, without extra trouble, and is of great value to the trade. More illustrations might easily have been given, but tliey would only increase the size of the book without adding to its thoroughness, as those that are given cover every essential point, and are applicable to all variations of the human form and the ever-changing vagaries of the fashions. It is my iiope that the satisfaction I feel in completing a coat system so com- prehensive and reliable will be equaled by all engaged in the production of women's tailor-made garments. THE AUTHOR. PART II INTRODUCTION The classification in this method is constructed like a train of thought, and through that, easier of comprehension and re- membrance. Its principles are applicable to all of fashion's changes, as it enables one to draft, just as easily and just as accurately for abnormal figures as for normal, without any additional • complications. Progressive cutters who are familiar with other works on this subject will find in this useful ideas and recognize its value and its practical use to the art. Merz's Practical Cutting System For Taking Measures. It is well to be provided with one of the inch tapes which can he fastened by a buckle for the purpose of defining clearly the waist line, and at the same time it shows the waist measure. Measuring. Pass the inch tape under the right arm as high as possible and level to point i, figure i. Having located point i with a pin, take measures from o, collar seam, to point i, to point 2 waist level and back waist. For normal figures these measures would be 6%, I54<^, i5/4. and recpired length of garment. Then put the measuring tape on point o, back center; take measures to 3, to 4, to 5, to 6, and to back center point i without removing the measuring tape from o. These meas- ures would be 6^. 14, 21^, iij4,2i^. Take the front depth measure, 6, by feeling with the forefinger where the underarm seam is to be. Take bust measure level, but rather lower in front than higher. The hip measure is to be taken 5'X inches below the waist line, and it is jM-eferable to mark the distance with a \)\n. To take the sleeve length, keep the inch tape between fore and middle finger, ])ass the hand under the arm and measure to point 10; keep the tape on 10 and measure the length to point II. All measures are as follows: 1. Back depth 6% 2. Waist length, level 1554 Waist length, on liack 1514 Length of garment 3- Neck 6^ 4. Height of bust 14 5. Front waist length 21^ 6. Front depth 1114 Blade (control measure) 2154 7. Bust 36 8. Waist 25 9- Hip 40 10 & II. Sleeve 714, 18 All the measures, e.xcept the hip, should be taken over a waist or a smooth-fittino- bodice. For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. Figure I. Figure 11. Merz's Practical Cutting System PART III Drafting. In all of the following explanations, wherever the frac- tions Yi, Yi, Ya, Yb' %> Vi2' Vie. bust, waist, hip, etc., are used, they are, according to the several divisions, half of the full sizes, unless expressly stated full bust, full waist, full hip, etc. The divisions will be found on the ordinary drafting square. The blade measure is used for control measure, and the neck measure for close neck fitting garments. The drafts are the exact widths and lengths and must be sewed in the lines, therefore the seams have to be allowed on the goods. For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. Merz's Practical Cutting System Diagram I. The measures : Back depth 6% Front depth 1 1^2 Level waist length. . . 15^4 Full bust 36 Back waist length. . . . 15J4 Fi-iH waist 25 Front waist length... 21 J4 To draft : Draw square lines from i to 2 and from i to 3. From point i to 4 is J/^ bust, less J4 inch, 2 inches for this draft. From i to 5 is -j-i inch, or V24 bi-ist under sizes of 36 bust, and cur\'e the line from 5 to 4, as represented. From 5 to 6 is back depth, 6% inches; to 7 is level waist line, 15^. inches; to 8 is shorter back waist line, 15^4 inches; to 2 from point 7 is 5^ inches on each draft, and square out the lines from 6 to 9, from 7 to 10, from 2 to 11, and from 8 to 19, as represented. From 7 'to 12 is i inch, or Vm bust, for sizes under 36 bust; draw the lines from 12 to 5 and 12 to 13 per- pendicular with the outside -line, and from 12 to R, which is V32 of the hip measure 20 = 5^ inch from point 13 on this draft. On the bust line from 14 to 15 is J4 bust, 9 inches; from 15 to 16 is V12 bust, 134 inches; point 17 is in the center of 15 and 16; draw the center line from 17 to 19 square from the bust line. From 17 to 18 is ^ bust and JA inch. This measure is to be taken from center point 17, and is worthy of remark. Then bust measure and ]/> inch from 14 to 9= i8j4 inches for 36 full bust. On the waist line fnjin center point 19 to 20 is yi waist = 6^4 inches, and from 20 to 21 waist measure, i2'/4 inches. Draw the front part guide line from 18 through 21 downwards to establish 22, and from 21 through 18 upwards to establish 2^. Front-depth measure is 113/^ inches. Take the back measure from 5 tO' 4 = 2 inches, and with this amount continued from 16 to 23, where iiyi inches reach the line. Square out from 23 to 24; from 23 to 24 is i^ bust. Draw a straight line from 24 through 9, which establishes 10 and 11.' From 24 to 25 is % bust, and cur\-e the collar line as represented. Point 26 is % bust from 14, and draw the front shomlder line from 2t, to 26. To establish the back width, point 28, take half from 14 and 17 and i^^ inches = 63/^ inches on this draft, from 14 to 28. Draw the lines from 28 to 29 and from i('> to 2y parallel with the back center line, 14 to 5. l-'roni point 16 to 27 is ,'4 For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 13 Diagram I. bust less jS inch. Draw the back sh.mlder line from 27 to 4 At point 29 the slioulder seam is enlarged 14 inch. For small sleeves it should be enlarged ^ inch. Take the measure from 4 to 29 and carry it over from 2:, to 30: then draw the arm- hole from 29 t(j 30, as represented. 14 Merz's Practical Cutting System Diagram II. The measures : Back depth 6% Front waist length. . . 21^ Level waist lengili. . . i5-;-:4 Front depth 11^ Back waist length. . . . 153-4 Fw'l bust 36 Height of bust 14 Full waist 25 The waist width necessary is from point 20 to 21. From 20 to 12 is back waist surplus, and from 21 to 10 is front waist surplus. These are to be cut out as follows : Draw the line from 29 to 12, which establishes K. From 12 to A is 34 back width. From A to B is ^/i,-, bust, ij/s inches to be cut out. From B to C is % waist and 3^ inch. From C to D is 3/2 inch, for cutting out on all drafts. From D to E is 34 inch more than from B to C. From E to F is i3^ inches, which is the balance from the 3 inches back-waist surplus. *G is the center of E and F; on carry over the same dis- tance from 17 to H as F to G. From H to I is 34 inch less than I to K. Draw the guide lines from K to A and from K to B, from H to E and from H to F, frnm I to C and from I to D. The height of the hust is 14 inches, and the front waist length 21% inches. Begin to measure from 5 to 4, which is 2 inches, and from 23 to L is the balance of the required 14 inches. M is the balance of the front waist length. 2i->4 inches. L is 3^ inch inside of the front part guide line on all drafts. From 10 to M is 34 inch; from M to N 3/^ waist and 34 inch. Front waist surplus from 21 to M is 4 inches on this draft; these 4 inches are to be cut out from N to Q. Draw guide lines from 9 to M, from L to N, and from L to Q. Draw the front waist line from M to N directed to point 19. Pivot at L and transfer the length from N to O. Pivot at K on I and H, and transfer the length from A to B, from C to D, and from E to F. This represents the waist line and has to be carefullv notched. *See G in Diagram III. For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. IS Diagram II. i6 Merz's Practical Cutting System Diagram III. TIGHT-FITTING JACKET, ONE DART. The measures : Back depth Level waist lengtli . Back wa,ist lengtli. . Heiglit of bust .... Front waist lenath . 6% 21M Front (lc])th 11^ Control measure .... 21 '4 Full bust 36 Full waist 25 Full hip 40 Take the hip measure from 22 to R = i6-)4 inclies on this draft. The necessary hip measure is 20 and ]A inch for ease = 20_}.4 inches. The balance of 3-54 inches has to be added as follows: Draw a perpendicidar line from A to 32. From 29 to 31 is y^ back depth. Curve the line frnm 31 through K and A to S, which is % inch from 32. Draw the guide lines from I through the center of C and D to establish T, and from G to U parallel with ]>revious line. Divide the balance 3^4 inches in five equal parts, which is -J^ inch each, and add one on each side of U, one on each side of T, and the fifth -)4 inch on the side of S ; draw guide lines from B to the side of S ; from C and D, from E and F to each side of T, and each side of U. Then draw the front center line from M to V parallel with the outside line. From V to W is y% inch more than from M to N. The nieasure from 22 to V is hip surplus 4^^ inches on this draft and has to be cut out from W to Z. Draw guide lines from Q to Z and from N to \V. Curve all lines as represented and the draft is ready to be cut out. The length lines are ex- plained in styles. About the use ()f the cuntri)] measure, see Diagrams X. and XL For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 17 Diagram III. Merz's Practical Cutting System Diagram IV. TIGHT^FITTING JACKET. TWO DARTS. All following drafts where no special measures are given are from the tahle of proportional measures of 36 bust. For two darts the front center line, 10 to M and 11 to V, is J4 inch. Pivot at 25 and draw a circular line through L to establish the height of the darts and put the darts, 43 and 44, '/12 bust apart on each side of L. From M to N is % waist; from N to O is V12 bust to be cut out; from O to P is ^/^a bust ; from P to O is the balance of the front waist surplus 21 to M = 2;>4 inch on this draft. From V to W is J4 inch more than from M to N ; from W to X ^ inch more than from N to O to be cut out ; from X to Y is 14 inch more than O to P; from Y to Z is the balance of the hip surplus 22 to V = 3 inches on this draft. Then draw the guide lines from 9 to M ; from M to V ; from the first dart point 43 to N ; from N to W ; from 43 to O ; from O to X ; and from the second dart point 44 to P ; from P to Y; from 44 to O; from O to Z. Draw the front waist line from M to N, directed to center point, 19; pivot at the first dart point, 43, to transfer the length N to O; draw also the front waist line from O to P. Pivot at the second dart point, 44, and transfer the length frnm P to O, and draw the waist line from O to center point, 19. Then curve the darts, as represented. ' All other points are explained in the i)recetling diagrams. For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 19 Diagram IV. Merz's Practical Cutting System Diagram V. JACKET SEMI-FITTED FRONT, SEAM OVER SHOULDER. Tlie front center for semi-fitted front from lO to M and 1 1 to V is ^ inch inside of the straight Hne. From M to N is '/s waist ; from V to W j6 inch more than from M to N. From N to is half of the front waist surpkis from 21 to M = ij4. inches on this draft. From W to Z take y2 inch more as Q from N 2% inches on this draft. For one. seam over shoulder draw a guide line from 33 to A, which establishes K. On point 33 is }i, inch to be cut out on the side piece; add this }i inch from 29 to 31 and curve the lines as represented. Transfer the width of the side piece, 31 and 33 to the front shoulder, 30 and 34, and draw the line from 34 through the dart point to N and to W, and from the dart point to Q and to Z. The divisions for the side pieces on bust, waist and hip lines are the same as explained in Diagrams II. and III. For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 21 Diagram V. Merz's Practical Cutting System Diagram VI. TIGHT-FITTING JACKET, TWO SEAMS OVER SHOULDER. For two seams over the shoulder, divide the back width from 14 to 28 in three parts and give from 14 to 38 and 38 to K each one-third of it. From H to I is J4 inch less than I to K. The back center point, R, is only ^ inch from 13 on this draft. From 12 to 39 is ^, back width; draw a guide line from 39 through 38 to establish 34, and draw perpendicular line from 39 to 32. From 39 to 40 is 34 i"ch to be cut out; draw guide line from 40 to 38, and from 40 to 42, which overlaps J^ inch from 32. From 40 to A is % back width, the same as 12 to 39. Draw guide line from A through K to establish 36, and a per- pendicular line from A to S. From A to B is ^/i,, bust less ^4 inch, to be cut out ; for the side piece, B to C, is Yh waist less Yd inch. The other waist and hip divisions are the same as in Diagrams II. and III., only in measuring the hip on this draft, nieasure from R to 32 with the amount from 42 to 22, which will give 1734 inches on this draft. Transfer the back shoulder seams exact to the front shoul- der as 36 to 37 and 34 to 35. On back shoulder, point 36, is ^ inch to be cut out on the side piece ; add this amount on the armhole, point 29, as represented. On this draft, from L to 43 and from L to 44, from O to P and from X to Y is each Y iiich less than V12 bust. Draw the lines as represented to give the l^est style effect. For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 23 Diagram VI. 24 Merz's Practical Cutting System Diagram VII. TIGHT-FITTING JACKET, THREE SEAMS OVER SHOULDER. For three seams over shoulder, divide the back width from 14 to 28 in four parts, and give from 14 to 38, from 38 to J, and from J to K each one-fourtl: of the back width. The back center point, R. is ^4. "ich from the perpendicu- lar Hne on this draft. From 12 to 39 is y^ back width; from 39 to i- is Vs inch to be cut out ; from s to 40 is Yg, back wicUh ; from 40 to d is y inch to be cut out, and from d to A is }i Isack width as from 12 to 39, and from s to 40. Draw guide lines from 39 through 38, which establi.shes 34, and a perpendicular line from 39 to 32; from .? to 38, and from i" to 42 which overlaps 3/^ inch from 32. Draw guide line from 40 through J, which establishes 36, and perpendicular line from 40 to 41, from d to J, and from d to 3, which overlaps }i inch from 41. Draw guide line from A through K, and a perpendicular line from A to S. Shape the line from K to 29, as represented. From A to B is Vis bust less }i inch, to be cut out. For the side piece, B to C is J/^ waist less y^ inch. The rest of the waist divisions are the same as Diagram II. To measure the hip on this draft, measure from R to 32, with this amount from 42 to 41, and with this amount from 3 to 22, which will give lyyi inches, and is the same addition as Diagram III. Transfer the back seams to the front shoulder seams, as 29, 36, 34 to 30, ^y, 35. From bust height, L, to 43 anti L to 44 is each ^/jo bust. On drafts with three darts on leave the front center line straight. From M to N is J^ waist ; from N to O is V12 bust less y2 inch, to be cut out; from O to i is V12 bust less y>- inch ; from i to 2 is V12 bust less 3/2 inch, to be cut out ; from 2 to P is Vi2 bust less J/i inch, as from O to i ; from P to O is the balance of the waist surplus from 21 to ]\I, which is 2j>2 inches on this draft. The hip surplus from 22 to V is {/ inch more than the waist surplus from 21 to M, therefore each dart on the hip line is y inch more, to be cut out as follows : From V to W is>f, inch more th'an from M to N ; from W to X is i/^ inch more than from N to O ; from X to 5 is 5^^ inch more than from O to i ; from 5 to 6 is ^ inch more than from I to 2 : from 6 to Y is Mi inch more than from 2 to P ; For Ladies' Tackets and Cloaks. 25 Diagram VII. from Y to Z is the balance of the hip surphis from 22 to V, which is 25/^ inches on this draft. Draw guide hnes from N to 43, and from N to W ; from O to 43, and from O to X ; from i to L. and from i to 5 ; from 2 to L, and from 2 to 6 ; from P to 44, and from P to Y ; from O to 44, and from O to Z. Sliape the Hnes from 30 to 44, from 35 to 43, and from 37 to L, as represented. Transfer the waist notches carefully by pivoting in center of lines 43, L, 44, 38, J, K, as garments with- so many seams could easily get inches out of balance. 26 Merz's Practical Cutting System Diagram VIII. TIGHT-FITTING ETON JACKET. For one-piece Eton back, from 12 to D is 5-< inch, from D to E is 3^ waist, from E to ig is the balance of the back waist surplus from 20 to D. G is the center of E and 19. Transfer the distance from 19 to G to the bust line from 17 to establish H. Draw gxiide lines from H to E and H to 19, from 14 to D, and short waist line from 8 to E. The front part is the same as in Diagrams II. and III. After the dart is cut out, notch the waist line, N and O ; lay the dart together, notch N to notch O, and draw the line from 19 to the desiretl style length, V, which establishes W and Z. For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 27 Diagram VIII. 28 Merz's Practical Cutting System Diagram IX. WAIST COAT, TWO DARTS. For vVaists, Bodices, or Princess garments, as they are to be worn over the corset cover, change the bust, waist and hip measure- to one size smaller. For example : 36 full bust to 35, 25 full waist to 24J/2, 40 full hip to 39, and then draft as regu- lar. The back width from 14 to 28 is ^ inch less for waist coats, and the armholes draw ^ inch deeper. From 12 to A is % waist = 3Vig inch for 1234 inch waist; from A to B is Vio bust, to be cut out ; from B to E is ^ waist, the same as from 12 to A; from E to 19 is the balance of the back waist surplus. Draw the lines from 28 to A, from 28 to B. from 15 to E, and from 15 to 19. Pivot at 28 and transfer the length A to B; pivot at 15 and transfer the length E to 19. The divisions for the darts are the same as in Diagram IV. After the front darts are cut out and the waist lines notched, lay the darts together, N to O and P to O, to draw the line from F (which is I inch lower from 19) to the desired front length, V ; this establishes W, X, Y and Z. TO DRAFT THE STANDING COLLAR. From 25 to 51 is ^/^^ fidl neck=ij4. 2oy^. 36, 23, 39. The bust line points, from 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 9, are divi- sions of the bust measure and are throughout the same on all drafts without displacement by small or large blades. From center point, 19 to 20, is ^ waist = 5->-4 inches, and from 19 to 21 is ^ waist =5^ inches. On this draft the full waist measure is 2 inches under normal. Add for each inch 54 of an inch from 21 to 41. Draw the front part guide line from 41 through 18 to establish 23, and from 41 to 42. Draw the line from 21 to 22 parallel with the previous line, 41 and 42. It is very important to remark that the front part guide line has to be drawn from normal waist point through 18, as well on a child's draft, or on 50 bust measure. NoDiial is II inches difference from bust, full measure. (For example, 30 inches bust and 22 inches waist is 3 inches over normal, the fourth full waist = 5^ inches, comes more to the front center line, and the fourth full normal waist is 3 inches less and comes to lay ^4 i"ch inside, or 4-)4 inches from center point, 19. The advantage is that it moves the shoulder point, 23, and the front hip point to the right place and gives ^ inch less darts as the form requires.) From A to B is ^/j,; bust on all drafts of that style, and the front dart, N to O, is V12 bust, more or less, surplus. The control measure is 2o34- Lay the front depth measure 11^4 inches on center point, 17, and measure from 17 to 14: the 2034 inches will be J4 inch inside of 14. Take % inch from 14 and hollow the back center; yg inch of the side piece K, and }i inch on each side of I. If the control measure is 20j4, leave the 34 '"ch in the front armhole on the line 16 to 27. The /4 inch taken off the back should be put on the front center and the line curved as represented. As front waist and hip surplus is from 21 to M and 22 to V, measure the hip from R to 22. The additions, S, T, U, are the same as in previous diagrams. For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 31 "* (S Diagram X. Merz's Practical Cutting System Diagram XL JACKET— CORPULENT, ROUND BACK, TWO UNDERARM PIECES. Measures : 81^, 17, 854. 17- 23^, 14M- VY-- 48, 40, 54- As the bust Hue poiuts are the same on all drafts, having drawn the center line from 17 to 19 and marked, from 19 to 20 and 19 to 21 ; J4 f^-'H or /^ waist, which is 10 inches on this draft. Before drawing the front-part guide line, make certain by every draft; if the waist normal or how many inches ab- normal on full measures. As the waist measure for this draft is 3 inches over normal, from 21 to 41 is Y\ inch; and the front-part guide line is to be drawn from 41 through 18 to establish 23, and from 41 to 42. Draw the line from 21 to 22 parallel with the previous line, 41 to 42. The front center line leave straight, as a client with this kind of measure is more flat chested. As large side pieces on tight-fitted garments are not suc- cessful, it is good to start with two underarm pieces from 32 full waist measure. For two underarm pieces, from 12 to- A is ^4 ii^ch less than 14 back width; from A to B is Vic bust on all drafts; from B to 38 is V^ waist less ^ inch ; from 38 to 39 is ;^ inch, to be cut out ; from 39 to C is % inch more than from B to 38 ; from C to D is Yz inch, to be cut out ; from D to E is ^ inch more than from 39 to C ; from E to F is the balance of the back waist surplus from 20 to 12. On this draft, the center point, 19, is in the center of E and F, and the underarm seam should never cross nearer the front. From K to J is one-third, and Yi inch of the distance from K to 17; from J to T is one- third, and from I to 17 is one-third less Yi inch. The control measure, 273^, shows Y^ inch over normal, for which gi\-e to the side pieces on K Y'i inch and to the under- arm piece on J V?- inch more. Measure the hip from R to 22 and divide the additions into seven parts; add one to S; one on each side of 40; T and U. The front waist surplus is from 21 to M, and hip surplus from 22 to V. On the first dart is \/io bust to be cut out, and on the second dart the balance of the surplus, as on all drafts with two darts. For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 33 34 Merz's Practical Cutting System Diagram XII. PLAIN COAT SLEEVE. This draft represents the same as if the sleeve were drawn witli a different colored chalk on the coat draft. The line i6, 27, 56 is a parallel line with the back center line, which brings the bottom of the sleeve point, 56, about i inch forward, which it requires. Lay the coat draft upon another piece of paper; trace through the armhole, the bust line, and the line 27 to 16. Draw the line from 27 through 16 to 56, which is the length, 18 inches, from 16. From 16 to 55 is the curve, 73^ inches. From 55 to 57 is \/,2 of the sleeve length. Draw the center lines from 56 to 57 and from 57 to 16. Draw the elbow line from 57 to 58 square with the line 57 and 56, and the bottom line from 56 to 59 square with the back armhole and 56. Point 27 is the same as on the coat draft. Draw the line from 27 to 61 level with the bust line. From 27 to 61 is half of the armhole measure, 8 inches on this draft. From 27 to 60 and 61 to 63 is each Vj,; of the armhole width. In the center, from 60 and 61 is 62; draw perpendicular line from 62 to 64. Point 64 is •}4 inch lower from bust line on all drafts. Pivot at 64 and draw circular line from 60 through 61 to 10. Draw the under- arm sleeve line from 63 so it touches the armhole on point i. To transfer the front seam, from 16 to i and 16 to 2 is ■)4 inch each ; from 57 to 3 and 57 to 4 is ;54 "ich each ; from 56 to 5 and 56 to 6 is I inch each. Draw guide lines and curve the lines from 2 to 4 and 4 to 6 ; from i to 3 and 3 to 5. From 16 to ,? is one-third of the distance from 16 to 27. Curve the overarm line from> 60 through s to 2. For the width of the wrist, from 56 to 59 is one-fourth armhole and jA inch. For the width of the elbow, from 57 to 58 is one-third of the arm- hole and ^ inch. Point (/ is the intended place for the seam to come, and point 9 is the required length of the armhole from I to d. Pivot at 58 and sweep the length 9 to 10. To transfer the elbow seam, from 38 to 7 and 58 to 8 is -)4 '"ch each. Draw guide lines and curve the lines from 9 to 7, from 7 to 59, from 10 to 8, and from 8 to 59. For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 35 Diagram XII. ENLARGED BOTTOM SLEEVE. Point 70 in Diagram XIL is 11 inches from 56. Draw straight hne from 70 to the center of 61 and 63. Pivot in the center from 70 and 61 and sweep the length from 59 to 70. Fold the paper at the line from 70 to the center of 61 and 63, and trace through the underarm lines, from 63 to i, 3, 5, 59 to 70. Unfold the paper and cut the overarm sleeve from 6 to 4, 2, .? 60 and 61 ; from 61 in the dressed line to i, 3, 5, 70, and to 6. 36 Merz's Practical Cutting System Diagram XIII. ENLARGED TOP SLEEVE. The enlargement un tlii.s draft is 7 inches. The elhow point, 58, is Yi inch more than in Diagram XII. Pivot at 58 and sweep the length from 9 to 11. Point 1 1 is 7 inches from 10. Draw straight line from 1 1 to 60. In the center, from 60 and II is 62 ; draw the line from 62 to 64 square with the line 1 1 and 62. Point 64 is Yx inch lower from the hust line, same as in Diagram XII. Pivot at 64 and draw circular line from 60 to 11. From 58 to 7 and 58 to 8 is 134 inches each. Draw guide line from 1 1 to 8 and curve the line from 1 1 to 8 about Ya '"ch from the giiide line in the center of 8 and 1 1 . All other points are the same as explained for Diagram XII. For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 37 Diagram XIII. 38 Merz's Practical Cutting System Diagram XIV. RIDING FROCK COAT. Draw tip the same lines as for Diagram IV. Draw straight hne through R to 44, which is the length, 36 inches. The draft is the same for longer or shorter length. Draw straight line from A through S to 45, and draw level line from 44 to 46. The front center line draw straight down from M through V to 46. The coat back opening is opposite J, the skirt seam effect, which is i^ inches from short waist line, A and B. From level waist line, M to d. is 4 inches. For the lapels, from M to 43 and d to 48, is ^ inch. The width of the lapels is the same as from the front center line to the first dart. Draw the line from 49 to 51, where the opening is likely to be had. Draw the style for the turning-over lapels from 49 to 42, fold the paper underneath in the line 49 to 51, and trace the lines through. When the paper is unfolded, you will have the whole outside edge of the lapels. Cut out the back with the style of the coat back opening and with the fold on J and 45. Trace off the side, underarm pieces and forepart with the hip run upon another piece of paper. After having cut out the pattern, lay the waist dart notches, N to O and P to O, F to E and D to C, together with the hip run and draw the required body style line from (/ to J. TO DRAFT THE SKIRT. From M to N is ^ waist. Draw the line from N to 7 and 6 parallel with the skirt frout center, 46 to M. From N to 7 is ^ waist; from 7 to 6 is % waist, which is y^i inches for 12^2 waist. Pivot at 6 and sweep the waist line from N to 12. the hip line from W to R, and from the length line 46 to 44. M to 12 represents the level waist line. Measure the hip on the hip line from V to R ; 20 inches hip and 3^ inch for ease is 20^ inches from V to R. Lay the square on, sweep point 6 and R and draw straight line from 12 through R to 44. Lay the back center of the cut-out back, level waist line to 12, and hip line R to R, and length 44 to 44, to take the back width off from the skirt from 12 to A, from R to S, and from 44 to 45. Draw the shorter back waist line from B, as represented. From A to B is J4 inch, to be cut out, and draw the line from B to S. Lay the waist notches of the side and underarm pieces, B, C, D and E. upon the waist line of the skirt, and take off from the skirt the same distance there is on the coat below the waist line, and draw the skirl line from d to T- For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 39 4^ / 40 Merz's Practical Cutting System Diagram XV. CLOSE-FITTED, FROCK-COAT SKIRT. To draft the skirt separate, draw a straight line for the front center, as M, V and 46. Square in the waist line from M to N; the hip line from V to W, which is 5^ inches from M : then the length, 46, which is 20j4 inches from the level waist line, M. From M to N is 3/5 waist. Draw the line from N to 7 and 6 parallel with the previous line. After having swept out the waist, hip and length lines as explained in previ- ous diagram, and the lines drawn, lay the front part, the level waist line, N, to the skirt draft, N, even with the front center to draw the line from d to F. Do the same with the underarm pieces, D to J. Draw the line from D to T with the hip run of th.e side piece, and from F to U with the hip run of the under- arm piece. Cut the skirt out from d to F. D, J, S, 45, 46 and to d. Fold the skirt in the lines F, U to 47, and D, T to 48. Cut the lines from F to U and from D to hip line, T. To draft the first dart, lay the pattern upon another piece of paper and draw from the corner, 46, to d, and from (/ to F. To keep the pattern on the lines, put weights upon it. Spread the cut E from F Vio ''■'P i/4 inches for 20 hip, and lay the pattern flat into a pleat from U to 47, and draw the dart from U to F, and from U to E, and to D. Put weights upon this part and spread C from D V24 'lip M inch for this draft and lay the pattern flat from T to 48. Draw the dart from T to D, from T to C, and all around from C to J. 45. 46. From 46 to 45 curve the line as represented. The spreading of the darts. F to E and D to C, is only good for this style of draft. For example, if the skirt seam is between F and U and D and T, the dart spreading from F to E and D to C would be half the amount. This kind of skirt is to be worn for street costume. S 12! 'Z-^- For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 41 Diagram XV. 42 Merz's Practical Cutting System Diagram XVI. LONG COAT. TI(;HT-FITTING. Draw up tlie same draft as fcjr Diagram IV., two darts. For the lower liip lines, draw as follows: Lay the yard-stick Y^ inch outside of the back center on waist line and draw straight line from R to 44. Draw the line from 44 to 46 level with the hip line, which represents the length, and is the same for longer or shorter coats. Lay the yard-stick Yx inch outside the line A and draw straight line from S to 45. For the side piece lay the yard-stick the same distance out- side of B as I from S and draw straight line from i to 47, and lay the yard stick on D and draw straight line from 3 to 48. For the underarm piece, lay the yard-stick on C and draw straight line from 2 to 49. Lay the yard-stick the same dis- tance from E as 5 from U and draw straight line from 5 to 50. The same distance from 19 as 4 from U and draw straight line from 4 to 51. Draw straight lines from M, V to 46; from N, W to 55: from O, X to 54 ; from P, Y to 53 ; and from O, Z to 52. J is 2 inches lower from shorter waist line, and the dotted lines represent the coat back opening and pleat opposite J. To draw the bottom line of the back, pivot at the point of collar and shoulder line and sweep the line from 44 out and inside to 45. Transfer the length from A, 45 to B, 47; to C, 48; to D, 49; to E, 50; and to 19, 51 : and curve the lines, as represented. Pivot at the point of collar and front center line and sweep the line from 46 to 55. Transfer the length from the waist notches, N, 55 to O, 54 ; from P, 53 to O, 52. Curve the lines from 51 to 52 and 53 to 54. For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 43 Diagram XVI. 44 Merz's Practical Cutting System Diagram XVII. THREE-PIECE LONG COAT, SEMI-FITTED FRONT AND BACK. From 12 to A is ^ Avaist ; from A to B is ^/j,, bust, to be cut out; from B to E is ^4 waist, aud ig to E is the balance of the back waist surplus. R is V24 'lip from 13, which is % inch for 20 hip. Draw perpendicular lir.:; from A to hip line : enlarge the back 3-4 inch, which represents S. Draw lines from 12 to R, lay the square ^ inch from back center on waist line and draw straight line from R to 44. Draw the line from A to S and from S to 45, as represented. Measure the hip from R to 22 and divide the addition into four parts and add 34 from S to T and % from T to 3. Transfer the distance from D and G at the waist line to the hip line from T to U, and give 34 oi the addition on each side of U. Draw guide lines from A to K, from B to K, from E to H, and from 19 to H. Lay the yard- stick the same distance from E as 5 from U and draw straight line from 5 to 48, the same direction from 4 to 49, and from 3 to 47. Curve the lines from K to S, from K to 3, froiu 11 to 5, and from H to 4. as represented. For semi-fitting front, from 10 to M and 11 to V is -J^ inch ; from M to N is >^ waist ; from N to Q is ^ of the front waist surplus. From V to W is ^/i inch more than from M to N. From W to Z is the variation of hip and waist surplus, which is 3^ inch more than from N to O. Draw giiide lines from O through Z to 50, from N through W to 5 1 , and from M through V to 46. Pivot at the point of collar and front center line and sweep the line from 46 to 51. Transfer the length from N and 51 to Q and 50. Pivot at the back point of collar and shoulder line and sweep the line from 44 to 45. Transfer the length A and 45 to B and 47; the same length to E and 48 ; to 19 and 49. Curve the lines as represented. For clients with full side liii). (li\ide the hip addition in three parts and a inch at the bottom point, 46. Pivot at H and sweep from center length line to 45 and to 47. Draw the bijtloiu lines from 44 to 45 and from 47 to 46. Trace the whole pattern off upon another uiece of paper and use the yokes to draft the sleeve. It is preferable to draft tlie sleeve upon the same draft with a different colored chalk. Draw the line 27 through 16 straight down to 56 and from 27 to 61 level with the bust line and continue the whole sleeve draft as given in Diagram XII. Take the back yoke and ])lace d and 35 to the top sleeve circular line and continue the sleeve with the yoke line, d, to 26, 5, 4, 64, 65, and to 66, as repre- sented. Place the front yoke to the circular line, 60, so that .f from .? is ^ inch apart, and draw the line from 64 to 23, 38, and to s where the sleeve is to be reconnected, as represented. Notch the sleeve at 64, as the balance of the coat dejicnds on thai line, as well as on the underarm seam of (he co;it. For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 47 Diagram XVIll. 48 Merz's Practical Cutting System Diagram XIX. RAGLAN SLEEVE. As center of sleeve and center of slioulder liarmonize in this kind of sleeve, transfer the shoulder seam carefully to the center, as in Diagram XVIII. On this draft the overarm sleeve is ^/n, of the armhole width smaller and the overarm point approaches to the underarm sleeve, point 63, and the cen- ter point, 62, on this draft is from 60 to 63, instead of 60 and 61. Draw perpendicular line from 62 to 64 and up to 65. Pivot at center point, 64, and draw circular line from 60 through 63 to 67 and continue the sleeve draft the same as in Diagram XII, only the overarm sleeve on this draft is Vio width smaller; for this, curve the line from 67 to the elbow to the outside of the guide line. Lay a piece of paper underneath and trace off the lines from d to 33, to 4, to 35, and to d; cut it out, and lay the shoulder line to the sleeve center line,. 64 and 65, the shoulder and armhole point, 35, even with the overarm circular line, and draw the line t,;^ to 63 and to 67 where you will have -Yi inch more for required fullness to give the sleeve a good hang. Cut out the front piece from i- to 34, to 23, to 36, and to s; place it on the sleeve center line and connect the line 33 to 34 and to ,?. The sleeve from i to 34 will be about i inch more for required fullness. For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 49 Diagram XIX. 50 Merz's Practical Cutting System Diagram XX. HUNTING JACKET— TURN COLLAR, FLY FRONT. For this draft, R is Vig li'P from 13, from 12 to A is ^ waist, from A to B is Vhi bust. Draw guide line from A to K, which is I inch from 28, and from B to K. Draw perpendicu- lar line from A to establish U. Measure the hip from R to 22, which is ijYz inches, and add the balance of 20 hip and 3^ inch for ease from T to S on each side of U, and shape the lines as represented. For semi-fitted front, it is always advantageous to put the dart as far back as possible. On this style of jacket, the dart line, N and W, is just left on the front part guide line, 21 and 22. For a fly-front jacket, the overlap from 9 to 49, M to 48, and 46 to 47, is ly^ inches, and draw the line from 49, 48 to 47. To draft the turn collar and lapels, draw the crease line from D to 51, where the turning is required; draw the shape of the turned-over lapels from D to E and the collar eff^ect, fold the paper from D to 51 underneath and trace the lapels and collar styles through. When the paper is unfolded, you have the front part edge completed and the front of the collar style. TO DRAFT THE COLLAR. From 22i to 50 is Vui of the full neck width. Draw the line from 51 through 50 tO' 52 with a little curve; 52 is the required collar length from the back center collar seam line to E. Square out from 52 to 54 and give j4 inch spring at 54. From 52 to 53 is 1^4 inch; draw the crease line from 53 to 51. From 53 to 54 is i^A inches; draw the line from 54 parallel with the crease line to the front, which already has the shape from the trace marks. For lower openings, cut off on the collar from 51 to E without changino- the draft of the collar. For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 51 Diagram XX. S2 Merz's Practical Cutting System Diagram XXI. DOUBLE-BREASTED JACKET, STORM COLLAR, TIGHT BACK, SEMI-FITTED FRONT. For this style nf overlap, it needs a -l^'incli dart at 25. as represented. From 9 to 49 is an overlap of 4% inches; from M to 48 is y2 inch less; 3^ inches; from V to 47 is % inch less; 4 inches; from 25 to the edge as well 4 inches. Pivot at 25 and sweep out the hottom line at 46, and draw the edge line from 25 to 49, 48, and straight down through 47. TO DRAFT THE COLLAR. From 23 to 50 is V'ln full neck width. Draw the line with a little curve from 25 through 50 to 52. Point 52 is the re- quired collar length. Square out from 52 to 53, from 50 to 55, and from 25 to 58 square with 25 and 50. The heig'ht from 52 to 53 is 4)/4 inches; from 25 to 58 is 3-)4 inches. Draw a curved line from 53 to 58. Pivot on the lines ij/^ inches from 52 and 50 and sweep from 53 to 54, and from 55 to 56 and 57. From 53 to 54 is ^ of the height, 1% inches, the same from 55 to 56, and 55 to 57. Curve the lines as represented. For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 53 Diagram XXI. 54 Merz's Practical Cutting System Diagram XXII. THREE-PIECE, THREE-QUARTER. TIGHT-FITTING JACKET— STAND AND TURN-DOWN COLLAR. Tliis draft represents the tightest fitting back to be cut with two pieces. R is ^/oi hip from 13. From 12 to A is J4 waist; from A to B is Vio l^^st and 34 inch; from E to 19 is the balance of the waist surphis, less Yi inch. From 29 to 31 is Yi of the back depth. Draw guide lines from A to 31 and from B to meet previous line at the bust line, from E to H and from H to 19. On this draft the dart from A to B is 34 inch more, as in previous diagrams, there- fore divide the balance of 20 hip intO' three parts and add on Vj, from S to T and 34 each side of U. From N to O is the waist surplus, less .)4 inch; from W to X 34 inch more than from N to O. Point 32 is i inch lower than 31 from the bust line. Draw the dart line from L to 32. On drafts where the buttons shall be in the center nf the front, give an overlap of s^ inch. TO DRAFT THE COLLAR. From 25 to 51 is '/,; full neck; from 23 to 50 is Vic, f"" neck. Draw guide line from 51 through 50 to 52, and measure the required length to 52. Scjuare out from 52 to 53, from 50 through 23 to 56, and from 25 to 54 with the line 51 and 25. From 52 to 53 is the height of the collar, i-^ inches; draw the line from 53 to 54 parallel with the line 52 to 51. From 55 to 56 is 34 inch, or V24 full neck ; draw the guide lines from 53 to 56 and from 56 to 54. Square out from 53 to 57 with the line 56 and 53 ; square out from 54 to 58 with the line 56 and 54. From 53 to 57 is 2 inches and give 34 inch spring at 57; draw the line from 57 to 58 parallel with the line from 53 to 56 and 54. For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 55 Diagram XXII. :;6 Merz's Practical Cutting System / i Diagram XXIII. TWO-PIECE LONG COAT WITH SHAWL COLLAR. This draft is about tlie same as Diagram XVIII. The hip center point, R, is V12 h'P ^^om 13. Draw straight line from 5 tlirough R to 44. H is in the center from 16 and 28 ; on each side of H is 34 inch more to make this garment very loose. Draw perpendicular line from H to establish U. Measure the hip from 13 to 22, which is 16^4 inches; balance 3^ inches of 20 hip, and 1J/2 inches for ease is the addition 5J4 inches from T to S, or 2^ inches each side of U. Draw the lines as represented. Pivot at H and sweep the length from 45 to the Iiack and forepart line. For a loose front without dart, from 10 to M is I inch. Draw straight front center line from 9 through M to 46. The edge around the bust line is to be kept short, therefore lengthen J4 inch at 46. From g to 48 and M to 47 is 2V2 inches for ()\-erlap. Draw straight line from 48 through 47 to the Ixittdni. TO DRAFT THE SHAWL COLLAR. Draw first the crease line from 49 to 51, then the st3de effect of the turned-over collar from 49 to 58, and the back line from 57 to 56. Turn over the lapel in the line from 49 to 51 and draw the line from 51 to 59. Lay a piece of paper underneath and. trace off the lines from 51 to 59, to 58, .to 23, and to 51 ; the same with the back piece, from 57 to 56. to 5, to 4, and to 57. Cut these pieces out to use for the C(~>llar draft. I-'rcim 23 to 50 is Vui f"" neck. Draw the line from 51 through 50 to 52 with a little curve. Having the length of the collar estaljlished, stiuare out from 52 to 53 and from 50 through 23. From 52 to 53 is 2j^ inches, from 50 to 54 is 2j4 inches. Draw the crease line in the center of 52 and 53, and in the center of 50 and 34 to 51. Take the back piece, lay the point 5 to the square line 53 and point 4 to 54, draw the line yi inch for spring outside of 53 and 56, round the edge of the pattern from 56 to 57 and from 57 to* the square line between 55 and 5-]. Lay the front piece even with 51 and point 23 to 55 and draw the line from square line to 58. from 58 around the pattern to 59 and back to 51. The -H inch more than the pattern at 58 and }i inch at 57 and 56 is a required fullness for the surface upon the coat. The necessary J/ inch from 54 to 55 is granted by the draft itself. For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 57 Diagram XXIII. 58 Merz's Practical Cutting System Diagram XXTV. INVERNESS— I,OOSE FRONTED, THREE-QUARTER. TIGHT BACK, TURN COLLAR CLOSED IN FRONT. For the back parts, tlie waist and hip divisions are ob- tained in the same manner as explained in Diagram XXII, and for the front center hne as explained in Diagrams XVIII and XXIII. Transfer the shoulder seams as explained in Dia- gram XVIII. Draw guide line from X to 29, and draw the line from S to T i inch deeper than usual armhole. TO DRAFT THE CAPE. Lay the cut-out back, point 29, to the .front shoulder, point 30, so that the collar and shoulder, point 4, is J/^ bust distance from 23 to draw a guide line from Z, X, Y to 30. Pivot at 23 to sweep the desired length from 46 to 47, and shape the line at 47 and 46, as represented. Draw the line from 30 to A with the direction of the armhole (from 30 to A is 2 inches) ; draw the line from A to i square with previous line (from A to i is i')4 inches) and transfer the length from 1 to B, which is •;4 inch from A. From B to C is 2 inches; from C to D is -^4 inch dart ; from D to E is 2 inches, and from E to F is ;)4 inch dart. From i to 2 is 2^ inches, and 2 to 3 is 2% inches. Draw the lines as represented. Draw the front line of the cape ^4 inch from 25 to 49, which is ^ inches from 9; to 48, which is i inch from front center, M. TO DRAFT THE COLLAR. From 25 to 51 is Vi- fnll neck, from 23 to 50 is Vn; fnl' neck, and 52 is the neck length. Draw the line from 50 through 23 to 54 square with 51 anil 50. From 54 to 55 is one-half of the 3^4 inches height. Draw the line from 50 to 52 square with 55 and 50. Square out from 52 to 53 and give ^-4 inch spring at 53. Draw the crease line 1^4 inches from 52 to 25. Draw the line from 25 to 56 square with the crease line. From 25 to 56 is 2^ inches, from 52 to 53 is 3I4 inches. Draw curved line from 53 to 56. For Ladies' jackets and Cloaks. 59 % z ;4T 51 Aft Diagram XXIV. 6o Merz's Practical Cutting System Diagram XXV. MARINE BLOUSE. One-piece back for Blouses, Etons, or Zouaves, the l)ack center from 12 is J/2 incli more to be taken out and curve the back center line from 14 to 8, as represented. From 8 to E is J^ waist ; draw the shorter waist line from 8 to E. From E to 19 is the balance of the back waist surplus. Transfer the center of E and 19 to establish H : draw the lines from H to E and from H to 19. The front center line, M, is i inch from 10 for every front part without dart. Draw the waist line from M to 19. From M to V and N to 22 is i>)4 inches for blousing. Draw the line from V through 22 with a curve to 19, as represented. Point 49 is 2^ inches from the straight line, for overlap. Draw the opening line from 49 to 51 and the edge line from 49 to V. To draft the standing under collar, from 23 to 50 is '/i,., full neck. Draw the line, with a little curve, from 51 through 50 to 52, which is the required length. From 52 to 53 is i)^ inches high. Square out from 52 to 53 and draw the line from 53 I" 51. e cut after the same manner as in Diagram XXVII. For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 67 Diagram XXVIII. 68 Merz's Practical Cutting System TABLE OF PROPORTIONATE MEASURES. The proportionate measures will be useful for the study for drafting different sizes of patterns, as : PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT. The widths of waist and hip, to bust sizes vary in ditTerent localities; the same with the waist lenglhs, back and front depths. The cutter is sometinies required to cut from measures furnished by sellers with very little experience in taking meas- ures. Und«r these conditions the cutter should be furnished as well with an explanation about the form of the customer, as full bujst, hollow back, nnind hip; or round back, flat bust, high side hip. The figure for round l)ack will have a higher back depth, and the cutter is assured with the control measure; the con- trary for figures witli hollow back and full bust. The front depth for round-back figures will be rather less, whilst for erect figures the front depth will be rather more. For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 69 TABLE OF PROPORTIONATE MEASURES 1- (0 m 1- 10 5 S a. I £ u Q < ID I (OO 55 -1 > u -1 LJ z h II < 5z H Z c u. I H a u Q H Z K b. u K 3 U fS z I 1- z Id > U u -1 30 22 34 eh isj'^ 6 12% 20/^ 10}^ 18/^ 16/^ 32 23 36 e% 14Ji 6j^ 13 20^ lO^A 19A 17 34 24 38 G% 15^ 6^2 13;^ 2i;i ii'A 20^ 17fe 36 25 40 G\ 15% 6% 14 21^ w'k 2lj^ 18 38 27 42 1% 16 7 14'/2 22^ 12 22j^ 18 40 29 44 7^ 16^^ 7;!^ 15 22^ 12;^ 23^ 18)4 42 31 46 ^% 16X 7^2 I5J& 22j^ 127g 24A isJi 44 33 48 1% lej^ 7% 16 23 13j!i 25 18^2 46 35 50 7% 16^i 8 ie% 23X 13fg 26 la;^ 48 37 52 8 16^ q'A 17 23^ 14 27 18^ 50 39 54 8A 16^ s% 17/2 23^ 14^ 28 18% yo Merz's Practical Cutting System LAYING OUT. The back pieces lay upon the material with the nap so that the bust line run is with cross thread of the material. The fore part should be laid upon the material so that the fore-part guide line run is with a lengthwise thread of the material. The overarm sleeve should be laid with both front seam points on the lengthwise thread of the material. For the underarm sleeve, lay the back seam from bottom to the elbow with a lengthwise thread. The top collar should be laid on crease edge, and the under collar on the bias so that point 53 and 50 lays with a cross or lengthwise thread. (See Diagram XX. for the points.). Sometimes there are styles with small back pieces and the back center seamless. In these styles the material has to be shaped to the pattern. When laying the pattern upon the material, point 5 and R to the crease edge ; make a mark on 5, collar line, and mark the length on S. (See Diagram X. for the points 5, R, S.) This is the required length. Mark from the bottom up to the waist notch by keeping the back center of the pattern on the crease edge, then mark in the same manner from the previous collar seam mark downwards to the previous waist notch. MR 13 ISfS LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 063 817 1