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HOUSE PLANTS 
 
 AND 
 
 How To Succeed With Them 
 
HOUSE PLANTS 
 
 AND 
 
 HOW TO SUCCEED WITH THEM 
 
 A PRACTICAL HANDBOOK 
 
 BY 
 
 LIZZIE PAGE'HILLHOUSE 
 
 — d'..-^ 
 iiUL X ^ 
 
 ILL USTRA TED -^ 
 
 "Non ignara mali, miseris succurrere disco" — Virgil 
 
 |lcb fork: 
 
 A. T. DE LA MARE PTG. AND PUB. CO. Ltd. 
 
 1897 
 
 ./ 
 
 ^.^ 
 
<: 
 
 Copyright, 1897 
 BY Lizzie Page Hillhouse 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER PAGE 
 
 INTRODUCTION .............. v 
 
 I BULB'S I 
 
 II CACTI 21 
 
 III FERNS 26 
 
 IV FLOWERING PLANTS 35 
 
 V FOLIAGE PLANTS 79 
 
 VI LILIES 100 
 
 VII PALMS 112 
 
 Vlil SHRUBS 131 
 
 IX VINES, CREEPERS AND BASKET PLANTS . 171 
 
 X MISCELLANEOUS 184 
 
 XI PROPAGATION OF PLANTS 197 
 
 XII GENERAL REMARKS 203 
 
 INDEX 211 
 
INTRODUCTION 
 
 AVING a passionate love of 
 Nature in all its phases, 
 everything- that grows, no 
 matter how humble, has an 
 attraction for me With the first 
 mild days that presage advancing 
 spring, when the sap, which is the 
 life-blood of the plant world, 
 begins to wake from its winter 
 lethargy ; when it first creeps, 
 then, as the sun grows more caress- 
 ing, bounds upward through trunk 
 and branch, swelling each tiny 
 dormant bud into bursting glad- 
 some life : so my blood (the sap 
 of human existence) dances with 
 glad anticipation of the coming 
 beauty that will enfold the earth. 
 Yet it seems to me but a little while ere all these 
 forms of wondrous and sublime loveliness, with 
 which I delighted my very soul, begin to fade, and, 
 alas! to die. Then my heart is sad and burdened 
 with a wild desire to shield, protect, and save them 
 
vi INTRODUCTION 
 
 from death, by bringing one and all into shelter 
 from winter's storms and icy blasts. 
 
 I wonder how many others have the same longing, 
 and, with but little knowledge of the frail beauties' 
 wants, extend to them their protecting care, beg 
 them to share the gloom of winter, and brighten it 
 with their sweet presence. 
 
 Just here our woes begin. We tenderly install the 
 flowers in most favorable situations ; then stand 
 gazing with fond eyes, and proudly beating hearts at 
 having rescued them from an untimely grave. We 
 can scarce contain our joy at the prospect of their 
 bright campanionship, imagining that we have 
 cheated hoary winter out of half its dullness. For 
 a few days all goes smilingly; then we feel a thrill 
 of alarm. Our gentle friends have a depressed 
 appearance; some indeed look quite crestfallen, and 
 are undeniably hanging their pretty heads. 
 
 We are panic stricken ; what shall we do to save 
 them ? Are they going to leave us after all our 
 thought and care? 
 
 We inquire wildly of everyone we meet, ' ' What 
 is the matter with them? What can^ or sJiall we do? " 
 
 Then we read books, catalogues, pamphlets, all 
 the printed lore we can find ; but it is all in vain. 
 Nothing enlightens us, or meets our case, showing 
 us how to prolong these precious lives. 
 
 Many of us have been thus defrauded in our 
 expectations, from having too little knowledge, and 
 not knowing where to seek it. I have bought book 
 
INTRODUCTION vii 
 
 after book in a vain search, only to find them all a 
 delusion and a snare — so technical, or ambiguous, as 
 to be far beyond my reach or comprehension. There- 
 fore, for the benefit of fellow sufferers, I have 
 determined to put down what little I have found out 
 through bitter experience; knowing that at least it 
 will be practical and true, as far as it goes. 
 
 I will try to tell in plain English what house 
 plants have been successful with me, when there 
 were no congenial accommodations; and the poor 
 things were forced to adapt themselves to a poisonous 
 atmosphere of gas, dust, and dry furnace heat. Not- 
 withstanding these drawbacks, I have succeeded in 
 coaxing many of them to change their habitat, and 
 submit, for a while, to circumstances (as many of us 
 are forced to do), until warm days and glad sunshine 
 returned, and they and I could revel in its beams. 
 
 I have had many failures with other plants, which, 
 in spite of all my care, would fade away ; and I could 
 only gaze with saddened, moistened eyes while they 
 sank slowly but surely to an early grave. 
 
 Did you ever plant a tiny seed and watch anxiously 
 for its fruition? 
 
 Perchance after a long and steady downpour, 
 when the sun bursts forth in all its regal power, you 
 steal quickly out to see what has become of your 
 buried hope — to find it, perhaps, just breaking 
 through the sodden ground. How cautiously it 
 peeps through the edges of its protecting shell ! 
 With a sly look around, suddenly it throws aside all 
 
viii INTRODUCTION 
 
 timidity; saucily it erects its head, boldly proclaim- 
 ing- to all the world that it is born! What a marvel 
 it is! And what a pleasure to watch its course, from 
 the time when it escapes from the womb of mother 
 earth, imtil it returns again, to add its mite to her 
 enrichment for the support of future generations. 
 
 How strange to think that these tiny seeds have 
 been developing, multiplying, renewing themselves 
 for untold decades — just as we human beings have 
 done. Springing up as things of joy and beauty, to 
 please our eyes, and brighten our lives; having per- 
 formed their mission, they silently fade away to 
 make room for their progeny — even as we step down 
 and out into the unknown, while our places are filled 
 by the countless thousands that are crowding on, 
 ever on, behind us. Such is life — an everlasting 
 renewal ! 
 
 Yet, when we lose some pet flower, though many, 
 perhaps more beautiful, are crowding in to take its 
 place, they can never quite fill it. There always 
 will be a void, a sense of something wanting: a 
 subtle aroma of the past will ever linger round the 
 present; and we can but sigh over the memory of 
 joys that have been lost in departed beauties. 
 
 It is very saddening, when some cherished shrub 
 or vine slowly fades away before our eyes, while we 
 are absolutely helpless to stay its flight. To those 
 who have thus suffered, I write, hoping that I may 
 give them hope ; and I shall endeavor to show how 
 they might have saved those that are gone, and how 
 
INTRODUCTION ix 
 
 they can preserve or prolong the life of others that 
 may fall to their loving- ministrations. 
 
 Sometimes the simplest things will save them. 
 
 Water and large pots are answerable for the fate 
 of many a season's beauties. Water is good, and a 
 bath delicious for opening all their pores and cleans- 
 ing them of their foes. But they do not wish to be 
 forced to live in a bath-tub. 
 
 I would impress it upon you to use good judgment 
 in both of these particulars ; and you must learn to 
 judge for yourself. It is impossible to give an exact 
 rule that will meet every case: as conditions may 
 entirely disagree, and what would be just right at 
 one time might be all wrong at another. 
 
 If the temperature of your house is at seventy 
 degrees Fahrenheit, or over, the potted earth will 
 soon become baked. This you must look out for. 
 
 Some plants can do without water for a long time, 
 and thrive; while others require a constant supply, 
 and will die without it. 
 
 You must know the needs of each individual, in 
 order to succeed with plants. 
 
HOUSE PLANTS 
 
 HOW TO SUCCEED WITH THEM 
 
 A mar y His 
 
 Crocus 
 
 Gladiolus 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 BULBS 
 
 HyaciiitJms 
 
 Narcissus 
 
 Nerincs 
 
 Ornithogalum 
 
 Oxalis 
 
 Tulips 
 
 AMARYLLIS 
 
 HESE are half hardy or hardy, deciduous, 
 bulbous plants of wondrous beauty. They 
 will grow in popular favor for window 
 decoration as they become better known. 
 Their large flowers are unsurpassed for brilliant 
 gorgeousness of coloring. 
 
 Cover the bulb to the crown, in good-sized pots, 
 filled with a compost of good soil, well rotted 
 manure, and some sharp sand or fine gravel to keep 
 the mass porous. Give very little water until the 
 leaves show well ; then increase the quantity ; also 
 give a little manure water during the flowering 
 period. Let them have plenty of light, and air 
 overhead when feasible. 
 
Amaryllis 
 
 They need rest to thrive, as it is not possible to 
 keep up the work of blooming- without it. 
 
 Hippeastrums (from Jiippeus, a knight, and astroii, 
 a star), belong to tliis order, AmcuTllideae. They 
 are a large g-enus of beautiful hybrids, which have 
 crossed and intercrossed, producing magnificent 
 specimens, generally known as Amaryllis, and so 
 catalogued by most florists. Under this heading we 
 find also : 
 
 Amaryllis Equestre, the Rarbadoes Lily, a very 
 lovely variety. 
 
 Amaryllis Johnsoni, a profuse bloomer, rather 
 hardy, a robust grower, with red and white striped 
 flowers. 
 
 AMARYLLIS 
 
 Amaryllis Belladonna, violet and white. 
 Amaryllis Formosissima, crimson. 
 
 Amaryllis Vittata, red and white striped. 
 Also many others, too numerous to name here. 
 Crinums, Nerines, Sprekelias, Sternbergias, Bruns- 
 
Crocus 3 
 
 vigias, Yallotas, Zephyranthcs, all belong to this 
 family or order. 
 
 CROCUS 
 
 A genus of hardy bulbous plants, with a world- 
 wide reputation. Most persons have either seen 
 them growing, or grown them themselves. Their 
 cultivation is so remarkably easy, that it is perhaps 
 superfluous to give any directions in regard to them; 
 but there possibly may be some to whom a few 
 suggestions, and a description of their habits, will 
 be helpful. 
 
 Many of us have hailed their appearance, with 
 the Snowdrops, as the first glad harbingers of spring. 
 All, howev^er, may not know that several of the 
 species bloom in autumn, as readily as others do in 
 spring. 
 
 Crocuses, if planted in the ground outside in a 
 well-drained location, will remain for years. They 
 multiply indefinitely, until they become too thick, 
 and must be taken up and separated. 
 
 Though most of the family are perfectly hardy, I 
 find that they appreciate a slight covering- in the 
 winter. 
 
 It is almost impossible to prevent separate varie- 
 ties from becoming mixed, if they are very near one 
 another. The corms constantly forming on healthy 
 plants soon cover a large space. 
 
 They will grow in the midst of grass; and, if you 
 wish to dot your lawn with any one species and color, 
 or a variety of colors — instead of having it starred 
 with Dandelions, as many are — you have only to dig 
 in autumn tiny holes, about three or four inches 
 deep; drop in your Crocus corm ; cover up, and 
 
4 Crocus 
 
 press down the soil. The following spring you will 
 have a brilliant-looking lawn, if they have been 
 closely planted ; if they have not, a few years will 
 remedy any deficiency. Mowing the grass will 
 seldom if ever hurt them. The only trouble is that 
 they do not last long enough. By the time, how- 
 ever, that they are about to disappear, something 
 
 else is ready to take their place ; so prodigal is Nature 
 with her wealth of beauty. 
 
 Crocuses may be grown in pots, or boxes, as sug- 
 gested for other bulbous plants. They should be 
 left covered out-of-doors until these same pots or 
 boxes are well filled with roots. Then bring them 
 into a cool room, that is, one whose temperature is a 
 little warmer than the outside air. Water carefull}^ 
 and they will soon come into bloom. Be sure you 
 
Gladiolus 5 
 
 do not take them into a hot, dry room, or you will 
 be disappointed in all your expectations. 
 
 Many varieties of Crocus will grow in water, like 
 Hyacinths. Florists have for them variously shaped 
 receptacles filled with holes, through which the plants 
 protrude, making the forms of hedgehogs, bee-hives, 
 and other things. The plants present a very pretty 
 and cheerful appearance when in full bloom. 
 
 The Crocus family is too large a genus to be de- 
 scribed individually, there being some seventy species 
 spread over various parts of the globe. But a selec- 
 tion of varieties may be made readily from any re- 
 sponsible florist's catalogue of bulbs for autumn 
 planting. 
 
 They come in numerous shades of blue, white, 
 purple, yellow, and violet. A closely planted box or 
 pot of harmonizing colors is a pleasant sight. 
 
 GLADIOLUS 
 
 Corn Flag. A genus of many species, though the 
 originals have been hybridized almost out of exist- 
 ence. The improvement, however, is decidedly 
 marked, and we owe our thanks to the hybridizers 
 for a host of new and beautiful varieties. 
 
 Gladiolus may be grown successfully in the house, 
 in pots, for fall and spring blooming. 
 
 When growing outside in the groimd during sum- 
 mer, they need a rich soil, a sunny location, and 
 plenty of water in hot weather. Each plant will have 
 to be staked before blooming, or it may be bruised 
 and broken by high winds and storms. 
 
 Do not mix any fresh manure in your potting soil; 
 it will rot the corms if it comes in direct contact with 
 them. 
 
Gladioltas 
 
 The large-flowering Gladioli do well in pots for fall 
 blooming, if planted for succession from April until 
 the last of June. The term "for succession," applied 
 to Gladioli, refers to planting about once every fort- 
 night, in order that the flowers may appear alter- 
 
 nately, new ones coming as the old ones fade. In 
 planting Hyacinths for succession, the intervals are 
 five or six weeks, as will be seen farther on. A 
 single large Gladiolus corm is sufficient for a seven - 
 inch pot, which should be filled with very rich soil, 
 and placed where the plant will receive plenty of air. 
 
Hya.cinthL\_is 7 
 
 Gladioli Colvillei are also excellent in pots, and can 
 be grown so as to bloom in April or May. If you 
 have a cold frame you will find no difficulty, as they 
 are easily raised in one; if not, you must exercise 
 your ingenuity and devise other means of growing 
 them, such as I have elsewhere described, particu- 
 larly in regard to Hyacinths. 
 
 The last mentioned variety of Gladiolus has small 
 corms; as many as five of them may by planted in a 
 six-inch pot; their roots do not take up much room. 
 Prepare them in the fall, and cover up out-of-doors, 
 as suggested for other bulbs. 
 
 If in a frame, when roots are formed and they be- 
 gin growing, you can take in a pot or two as you need 
 them. They should have at least fifty-five degrees 
 of heat. Water gradually; and give air overhead. 
 
 If you have started with good strong corms, each 
 one will give you two or more scapes. AVhen these 
 make their appearance a little more heat will be re- 
 quired, with your lightest, sunniest situation. And 
 give plenty of water at the roots. 
 
 Should you not be the happy owner of a cold 
 frame, you will have to bring your pots inside before 
 severe weather; under these circumstances you must 
 keep them covered up in the dark, in some cool place, 
 until you are ready for them to bloom. 
 
 Gladiolus Recurvus is a most exquisitel}^ scented 
 variety, with yellow flowers, thickly studded with 
 blue ; it has a lovely violet-like odor. 
 
 HYACINTHUS 
 
 By good management in planting for a succession, 
 the bloom of Hyacinths may be enjoyed during 
 most of the winter, and until near the end of May. 
 
8 Hyacinthias 
 
 They may be grown singly, or two or more together 
 in pots of sufficient size; you can have them also in 
 boxes for your window. 
 
 If you plant in boxes or pots, as you may prefer, 
 place them in a cold dark room or cellar; or sink them 
 into the ground outside, and cover them with leaves, 
 or something else to prevent freezing. They may be 
 left until you are ready for them to flower. You can 
 bring the bulbs into strong heat as they are needed, 
 and soon force them into bloom. 
 
 The large-flowered Hyacinths should be potted 
 singly, in five or six-inch pots, according to the size 
 of the bulb. Fill your pots lightly with good loam 
 and manure in equal parts, and have sharp sand well 
 mixed through it. Press the bulb firmly into the 
 mixture and cover up. 
 
 If you wish a succession, begin to plant during the 
 latter part of August and continue to the last of 
 November, with five or six weeks between the 
 plantings. 
 
 Before bringing the bulbs into heat they must be 
 well rooted, with the crowns beginning to expand. 
 This they are supposed to do when covered up in the 
 dark ; all the bulbous plants require to rest in seclu- 
 sion and darkness. 
 
 When they are brought inside they must still be 
 kept in the dark, but as warm as possible until they 
 " break ground," as an old farmer would say. Then 
 they may have a sunny window, and plenty of water 
 at all times. When the lovely flowers come, they 
 will want something to strengthen them and increase 
 their size; you should give manure water. 
 
 If you use boxes they need not be over six inches 
 deep. Have the soil very rich, perfectly drained ; and 
 
HyaciiT^thiuis 
 
 let no fresh manure come in contact with your bulbs, 
 as it will burn and cause them to rot. You must 
 watch them; and, should they become infested with 
 Green Fly or Aphis, syringe or dip them in luke- 
 warm water. 
 
 
 HYACINTHS 
 
 Hyacinths may also be grown in glasses, and for 
 this purpose the single varieties are best. There are 
 glasses made especially to prevent the bulb from 
 sinking too deeply into the water. 
 
 Fill the glasses with rain water, and let this con- 
 tain a little charcoal to keep it sweet. Wind some 
 sphagnum moss about the bulb, and place it in the 
 
10 HCyacintlT^os 
 
 glass so that the bottom of the bulb will just touch 
 the water. Then put away in some cool dark place 
 until it puts forth roots, when you can bring it to the 
 light. 
 
 As the heat of a room causes the water in the glass 
 to evaporate, add more ; and your bulbs will need no 
 further attention. 
 
 In the open ground Hyacinths require but little care 
 and make a very brilliant showing. If given a rich 
 light soil, in a bright sunny location; and if well cov- 
 ered in the late fall with leaves, straw, or old manure, 
 to keep them warm and comfortable during our 
 severe winter; you will find them pushing- their heads 
 through this protecting mantle so early in the spring 
 that sometimes they will get nipped by a belated 
 frost for their forwardness. 
 
 After they have finished blooming the bulbs should 
 be taken up with a g-arden fork, dried in the shade, 
 and put away, to be planted again early in the fall. 
 They may give you another crop of flowers; but the 
 bloom will not be so fine or perfect as that of the first 
 season. They always run out and deteriorate after 
 the first year. 
 
 Pick out hard, heavy bulbs in selecting; they, as a 
 rule, produce the finest heads of bloom. 
 
 The early Roman Hyacinths, with their beautiful 
 pure white bloom, are very effective for the house in 
 either pots or boxes. They may be grown in flats 
 three inches deep ; but, unlike the other or hardy 
 species, they must not be exposed to severe cold or 
 frost, as they are tender and it would kill them. 
 
 If in a box they should be planted quite closely 
 together. If you do not wish so many, you can place 
 three or four in a five-inch pot: cover lightly with 
 
Narcissuis 
 
 11 
 
 soil; water, and cover them up in some dark place 
 where they will not get chilled. Wait until the pot 
 or box is filled with roots. Then bring them into 
 the light, and syringe often to encourage the tops to 
 grow. 
 
 NARCISSUS 
 This is a genus of generall}^ hardy, bulbous plants, 
 which have delighted many generations with their 
 
 NARCISSUS 
 
 beauty and fragrance. They are sometimes termed 
 Daffodils, and also include Jonquils in their family. 
 
 The hardy varieties are particularly fine for out-of- 
 doors. They do well if planted in a moderately 
 rich soil, about six inches deep; and should not be 
 disturbed for three or four years. After this they 
 
12 Narcissus 
 
 will need thinning- out. Give them some protection 
 in winter, a covering of leaves, salt hay, or old 
 decayed manure. 
 
 If planted at the depth just mentioned, they may 
 be left undisturbed ; and other flowers may be planted 
 over them. They resent being taken up each year, 
 and in this respect differ from Hyacinths. If par- 
 tially shaded from the full strength of the sun, their 
 bloom will last longer. 
 
 Narcissus readily becomes naturalized in the grass, 
 like Crocus. But, while you can use the mower as 
 soon as Crocuses have finished blooming, cutting off 
 their leaves without injury to the bulbs, the Nar- 
 cissus leaves, on the other hand, should not be cut 
 while green, but be allowed to die naturally, and then 
 be cut off. 
 
 Polyanthus Narcissus is not hardy, and cannot stand 
 our winters. These plants are chiefly used for early 
 forcing in the house, and may be grown precisely 
 like Tulips, in boxes or pots. But do not leave them 
 out until it freezes; and whenever you bring them 
 in keep them very cool, as they will not flower in a 
 warm place. 
 
 Exceptions to the above rule, however, are: 
 
 Paper White Narcissus 
 
 Double Roman Narcissus 
 
 They can be forwarded in heat after the flower 
 scapes appear. 
 
 Chinese Lily is a variety of Polyanthus Narcissus, 
 though called by several other names. It makes 
 rapid growth in a bowl of water, with pebbles about 
 the bulbs to hold them in an upright position. The 
 bloom is white with a yellow center, and very fragrant. 
 Give plenty of light, with air overhead; keep them 
 
Nerines 13 
 
 tolerably cool ; and change the water occasionally. 
 A piece of charcoal serves to keep it sweet. 
 
 There are so many kinds of Narcissus, named and 
 unnamed, offered by our florists, in pure white, pure 
 yellow, and white and yellow, that those would be 
 hard to satisfy who could not discover some variety 
 that would please them, particularly as nearly all are 
 beautiful. 
 
 Trumpet Major is an exceedingly good sort for out- 
 door planting. If not disturbed it will soon cover a 
 large space. 
 
 NERINES 
 
 Called after the water nymph of that name, are 
 nearly hardy, bulbous plants. They are very lovely 
 when in bloom. 
 
 Loam and leaf soil, with an addition of sharp sand, 
 or charcoal, and perfect drainage, suit them best. 
 They should also have a warm, light position, and be 
 rested regularly every year. If they are wanted for 
 windows in winter, their rest should be given in 
 summer. 
 
 Do not repot often, as they dislike it. About once 
 a year, when they commence to flower, shake out as 
 much of the old soil as you can, and fill up with fresh 
 new earth. When the leaves die, store the plants in 
 a cool place ; and keep them quite dry until they 
 show again signs of growth. 
 
 Nerine Japonica. Pink Spider Lily, is very pretty, 
 and blooms from August to November. 
 
 Nerine Sarniensis. Guernsey Lily, is also a hand- 
 some variety. 
 
 Nerine Fothergilli Major is superb. 
 
14 Ornitl-iogalom 
 
 Some recommend that all Nerines be allowed to 
 make their full growth of foliage during winter and 
 spring, that they may bloom freely in late summer 
 and autumn. 
 
 ORNITHOGALUM 
 
 This is a bulbous plant with a very large connec- 
 tion, there being about seventy species. Some are 
 
 ORNITHOGALUM 
 
 hardy, or half hardy, while others are greenhouse 
 plants. They come from Europe, Africa, the Orient, 
 and several parts of xAmerica. Many of the hardy 
 kinds are very pretty, and make good border plants, 
 being of the easiest cultivation. The more tender 
 
Oxaiis 15 
 
 varieties, some of them almost half hardy, are desir- 
 able pot plants for a cool location. 
 
 Hardy Ornithogalums take care of themselves to a 
 certain extent when once planted; those grown in 
 pots need to be treated in the same manner as Lilies, 
 they also belonging to the order Liliacese. 
 
 Ornithogalum Arabicum is a lovely species, very 
 showy, bearing large- fragrant white flowers, with a 
 black centre on a scape from one to two feet long. 
 The bloom lasts a considerable time. This kind, 
 while not perfectly hardy, is still very good for pot 
 culture. 
 
 Ornithogalum Nutans has flowers white on the upper 
 side and green on the back. 
 
 Ornithogalum Thyrsoides, with yellow flowers, from 
 the Cape of Good Hope, is a handsome greenhouse 
 species, of which there are two or t,hree varieties. 
 One of the latter is piire white; the others have shades 
 of yellow. 
 
 Ornithogalum Umbellatum, Star of Bethlehem, is 
 satiny- white striped with green. It is a handsome 
 variety, indeed one of the best. 
 
 Ornithogalum Vittatum is another greenhouse species, 
 with yellow flowers. 
 
 They are all propagated by offsets; and the hardy 
 ones, outside in the ground, multiply rapidly. Those 
 grown inside need well drained pots, and no water 
 when resting. 
 
 OXALIS 
 
 A genus of over two hundred species, some hardy, 
 or nearly hardy, others greenhouse varieties. They 
 are of the easiest culture; and a number of them 
 make very effective pot plants. They appear well in 
 
16 
 
 Oxalis 
 
 hanging baskets, or vases; mix in well with Ferns in 
 corners ; and some of them are pretty in borders. 
 
 They all multiply very rapidly, and may be propa- 
 gated by division of the roots. They do best in a 
 sandy soil, with a warm and dry position. The 
 varieties grown in pots should be rested, like Callas, 
 by laying the pots on their sides outdoors, that the 
 bulbs may keep dry until ready to commence a new^ 
 growth. 
 
 Oxalis Acetosella, a perennial, is the common Wood 
 Sorrel. It has white flowers prettily veined with 
 purple. 
 
 Oxalis Bowiei, from the Cape of Good Hope, is a 
 beautiful species with rosy-red bloom, and light green 
 leaves. 
 
 Oxalis Tetraphylla, from Mexico, is a handsome 
 hardy perennial, which will do well almost anywhere. 
 It is generally catalogued under the name of Oxalis 
 Deppei. This plant has good-sized scaly bulbs, is 
 four-leaved, and bears purplish-violet flowers consid- 
 erably larger than those of the general type. 
 
 Oxalis Lobata has a yellow bloom, which it throws 
 out in October and November; it is a hardy species. 
 
Tulips 17 
 
 Oxalis Rosea, rose colored, or Floribunda its 
 synonym, is a good variety. 
 
 Oxalis Purpurea is purple, with bulbous roots; it 
 grows only about three inches high. 
 
 Oxalis Luteola has yellow flowers, and is expected 
 to bloom from January until September. It also 
 reaches a height of only some three inches, and has 
 bulbous roots. 
 
 Oxalis Enneaphylla is a hardy perennial, about four 
 inches high, bearing white or rose-colored flowers, 
 streaked with purple. 
 
 As a rule Oxalis bulbs are quite small, and several 
 should be planted in a pot to make a good display ; 
 they can be thinned out if they become too thick. 
 Any of the greenhouse species maybe grown outside, 
 and laid away to rest in winter if not wanted. I 
 simply set the receptacle in which they are growing 
 where the bulbs will not freeze ; and they start up 
 again in spring. 
 
 TULIPS 
 
 Like Hyacinths, they are very hardy, and may be 
 planted outside in beds, or borders. But I have 
 found that they also are grateful for a little protection 
 during the coldest months. The covering, however, 
 should be raked off early: for, if they have been kept 
 very warm, they may appear too soon, and be caught 
 by some belated frost. 
 
 Plant Tulips in September or October. Put them 
 three or four inches deep, with a little sand around 
 each bulb, unless the soil is naturally sandy. A good 
 way is to make a trench, about four inches deep, the 
 length of your bed. vSprinkle an inch or two of sand 
 through it; press in your bulbs, about five or six 
 
SIWGLE EARLY TULIPS 
 
Tialips 19 
 
 inches apart; cover with soil and firm it with the feet. 
 Then, when the weather begins to grow very cold, 
 throw litter over the whole bed. 
 
 Tulip bulbs may be left undisturbed for two or 
 three seasons without further care ; by that time they 
 probably will have so multiplied as to need being dug 
 up, divided, and reset. 
 
 If you require for other purposes the ground they 
 occupy. Tulips may be taken up each year, after 
 blooming, when the leaves begin to turn yellow. 
 They should be then dried off, and laid away where 
 mice will not get at them. In the fall you can reset 
 tliem again. 
 
 You will no doubt find two or three of the bulbs 
 clinging together. Separate them, rub off the out- 
 side reddish skin, and plant singly as before. 
 
 Keep Tulip bulbs in the shade when drying, and 
 s'ore them where the air will circulate freely among 
 them. 
 
 It is best, when possible, to plant in October: this 
 gives them time to make roots, and take hold of the 
 ground before it freezes. 
 
 There are so many Tulips — their name is legion — 
 that the selection of colors and varieties must be 
 left to your individual taste and personal knowledge, 
 aided, perhaps, by advice from your florist. 
 
 For pots and boxes inside. Tulips are a great suc- 
 cess, making a brilliant showing and dispersing the 
 gloom of the darkest day. 
 
 To begin with, you will need a good compost of 
 about two parts loam to one of well rotted manure, 
 with enough sand to make the mixture friable, so 
 that water may pass through it readily. 
 
 You may plant from three to five bulbs, according-; 
 
20 Tulips 
 
 to size, in a fiv^e-inch pot. If you use boxes, have 
 them about six inches deep; fill them with soil to 
 within an inch of the top, having holes and crock in 
 the bottom for drainage; and plant your bulbs about 
 three inches apart. 
 
 Before the ground freezes out-of-doors, sink the 
 pot or box, and cover with earth, mulching with 
 leaves, or something else, to prevent the bulbs from 
 freezing. Leave them alone until you are ready for 
 their company, then bring them in ; keep them dark 
 and warm until they are well above ground. At this 
 time they will want a sunny location, plenty of water 
 — but not too much — and air from above. You can 
 bring them to the light in installments, and so pro- 
 long the supply. 
 
 In planting Tulips do not forget to take off the 
 outer red skin; it is sometimes so hard that it is liable 
 to keep the tender shoot from forcing its way through 
 the soil. 
 
 These bulbs — and any others intended for spring 
 blooming outside, such as Hyacinth, Crocus, Narcis- 
 sus — should be put into the ground in September, if 
 possible. One may wait through October, and even 
 until the first part of November; but the earlier 
 planting produces the best results, as it gives the 
 bulbs more time to make good strong roots. These 
 will enable them to withstand the rigors of winter 
 better than if planted late, when they would have but 
 small roots and a feeble hold on the soil. Moreover, 
 all these bulbs, if kept too long out of the ground, 
 gradually lose their vitality until they become utterly 
 worthless. Yet they all do better, and make finer, 
 stronger bloom, if taken up, rested, and reset each 
 year. 
 
CHAPTER 
 
 CACTI 
 
 HE Cactus family. If one is fond of 
 Cacti, a good many may be kept in a 
 window, as they do not take up much 
 space, being of slow growth, and not 
 very hard to manage during the winter months. In 
 summer you have simply to sink them outside in 
 your sunniest location, and they will look out for 
 themselves. 
 
 Any ordinary garden loam mixed with half its 
 quantity of sand, pounded brick, or old plaster, will 
 suit them, provided the drainage is perfect. To 
 insure this, fill your pots at least one-third, or one- 
 half full of broken crock. I always save the broken 
 pots for this purpose. 
 
 February or March is the best time for repotting, 
 shaking off most of the old soil, and cutting out any 
 decayed roots. Cacti, however, do not need chang- 
 ing often ; a good top dressing, and occasional doses 
 of manure water, will keep them thrifty for several 
 seasons. In winter give scarcely any water; at this 
 time they do best when entirely dry, unless your 
 room is intensely hot. In summer, on the other 
 hand, they may be showered every day and will 
 enjoy it, as they require plenty of water while 
 blooming. 
 
22 
 
 Cacti 
 
 A good thing- about these plants is their freedom 
 from insect pests. 
 
 There are many fine varieties of Cacti, which are 
 very attractive and well worth growing ; others again 
 that are so peculiar in habit and appearance as to 
 
 R6S 
 
 1^ 
 
 
 
 ^m 
 
 m 
 
 
 ^^^3 
 
 l^^m 
 
 ^m 
 
 
 
 m 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 excite our wonder. The bloom of some of the species 
 is marvellously beautiful. 
 
 After enjoying them as they come into flower 
 during summer, if you are limited as to room in 
 your house, you can store these plants in any dry 
 place where they will not freeze; they will keep 
 perfectly from season to season, and be ready to 
 
Cacti 23 
 
 form an interesting" gToup outside for you each 
 succeeding spring. 
 
 Cactus is the generic name given to all the mem- 
 bers of this large family, which appear also under 
 various nomenclatures. Yon will, for example, find 
 many desirable species among the following: 
 
 Cere us Ep ipJiyllu ;;; 
 
 EcJiinocaetus Mainuiillaria 
 
 And others of the numerous tribe. 
 
 Echinocactus, or Hedgehog Cactus, is to me an 
 especially interesting group. 
 
 Epiphyllum Truncatum, synonymous with Cactus 
 Truncatus, but more familiarly known as Crab Claw 
 Cactus, comes from Brazil. It belongs to a genus 
 of most beautiful, brilliantly colored winter-flower- 
 ing plants. They make lovely specimens when 
 grafted on Cereus, or Pereskia stock, in treelike 
 form . 
 
 The following varieties of Epiphyllum Truncatum 
 are all admirable: 
 
 Ehiphyllum Truncatum Ruckerianum, which has red- 
 dish purple flowers with a violet centre. 
 
 Epiphyllum Truncatum Coccineum, a rich deep scar- 
 let, is very fine. 
 
 Epiphyllum Truncatum Magnificum, has large white 
 bloom, with rose-colored tips. 
 
 Epiphyllum Truncatum Violaceum Superbum, is pure 
 white with deep purple edge. 
 
 And there are others equally attractive. 
 
 Epiphyllums, like all Cacti, succeed best in sandy 
 soil. In Texas I have seen Cacti flourishing in 
 the most barren places, growing in almost pure sand, 
 
24 
 
 Cacti 
 
 clinging to all but bare rocks; and yet, from various 
 experiments, I know that they enjoy a little rich 
 food. 
 
 Some leaf mould, or a small quantity of very zvell 
 rotted old crumbly manure, they will appreciate; 
 and, if you can secure some old mortar rubbish, mix 
 it through your compost. 
 
 Have perfect drainage, and rather small pots in 
 proportion to your plants. 
 
 EPIPHYLLUM 
 
 In summer sink tliem outside, where they will get 
 the sun; and water tliem freely. 
 
 By autumn tlicy should have formed good-sized 
 shapely heads, and be ready to bloom when carried 
 into the house. 
 
Cacti 
 
 25 
 
 They will flower in a temperature of about sixty 
 degrees. But when they have finished, Cacti need 
 a much cooler position, and just enough water to 
 keep them from drying up or shriveling. 
 
 If you cannot procure grafted standards, place the 
 pots on a bracket or table, where the plants can 
 hang down, as they are of a pendent habit. 
 
 MAMMILLAKIA 
 
CHAPTER 111 
 
 KERNS 
 
 Adiantums NepJirolepis Platy ceriums 
 
 ADIANTUMS 
 
 THESE are the most beautiful, 
 but, unfortunately, the most deli- 
 cate and tender of all the Fern 
 family. While they ravish the 
 eye with their loveliness, until 
 all beholders long to possess 
 them, yet, when admirers accom- 
 plish the wish, it generally 
 means that the Ferns' doom is 
 sealed: for very fev/ ever suc- 
 ceed with Adiantums outside of 
 a greenhouse. 
 Despite the difficulties attending their sojourn in 
 a dwelling, I am proud to say that I have weaned 
 them from the seclusion of a hot-house, and taught 
 them sociability, and how to thrive. This, however, 
 was done only at the expense of several fine speci- 
 mens. 
 
 Adiantums (from adiantos, dry) are the Maiden- 
 hair family. They belong to the order Filices, an 
 extensive genus of tropical and temperate Ferns. 
 
AdiantTarxis 27 
 
 Few, if any of them, are hardy. Their chief 
 requirements are a compost of good loam and sand, 
 perfect drainage, sufficiency of pot room, not too 
 much sun, shade from the afternoon rays, and not 
 one drop of water on the leaves, as it scorches and 
 dries them up just as though fire had passed ovei 
 them. Ferns, however, demand an ample supply 
 of water at their roots, at all times, except when 
 resting during November, December and January. 
 Then the quantity may be lessened, unless your 
 house is very hot. Never let cold air blow directly 
 upon them ; but on mild days you can give air by 
 opening the upper sash of some window in an 
 adjoining room . I keep my Adiantums on a table 
 in the front hall, about five feet from a bay-window; 
 and they get sufficient air from the opening of the 
 vestibule door. 
 
 It is the wetting of the leaves that invariably kills 
 them, combined with soggy or sour earth, and violent 
 changes of temperature. 
 
 The above treatment is for a dwelling-house. If 
 carefully carried out, the Ferns should thrive as mine 
 have done. 
 
 After resting awhile, they will, about February, 
 commence active operations once more. 
 
 If your plants are very large, and you wish to keep 
 them within bounds, and not be forced into using 
 larger pots — for they must have room — you can 
 divide them by cutting, or slicing right through the 
 ball of roots, with a sharp knife, and thus separating 
 into smaller plants and pots. But I should not advise 
 this unless you have seen it done ; and, perhaps, it 
 would be safer to get some professional to do it for 
 you. 
 
28 Adiantui-ns 
 
 These same professionals will tell you that it is not 
 possible to grow Adiantums outside at all. But, as I 
 have done so, I know them to be laboring under a 
 delusion. 
 
 About the first of June, if the weather is settled, I 
 place my Ferns in a sheltered corner, where two 
 buildings meet, forming a sort of recess; here only 
 the morning sun reaches them. They are set on a 
 wire stand to keep animals from them; and, with 
 saucers under the pots, are kept thoroughly wet. 
 The spot is so sheltered that the wind does not get at 
 them; and they grow nicely all summer, becoming 
 vigorous and ready for the change to the house at 
 the first sign of winter. 
 
 When I say that Ferns need room, I do not mean 
 that they must have immense pots; for they grow 
 well in very small ones compared with the size of the 
 plants. But they must not be pot-bound, or consume 
 all the soil before they have fresh nourishment given 
 them. 
 
 Always keep a strict watch for insects, as Adian- 
 tums are liable to attacks, particularly from the Mealy 
 Bug, the Brown Scale and White Scale. The best 
 way to get rid of these parasites is to pick them off 
 with the fingers and kill them. Thrips and Aphides 
 also attack Ferns, but can be destroyed by tobacco 
 smoke, if you have any way of fumigating. This 
 must be done very carefully, as smoke will destroy 
 the plants if too strong. My Ferns have never been 
 badly infested by insects; so that in respect to ridding 
 them of the pests I have had little or no personal ex- 
 perience. With other plants, however, while my 
 fortune has varied, I have generally succeeded in 
 averting the evil. 
 
30 Adiantuims 
 
 Adiantum Capillus Veneris, the common Maidenhair, 
 is widely known and generally nsed for purposes of 
 decoration. 
 
 Adiantum Tenerum Farleyense (Farley's), from Bar- 
 badoes. A tender stove variety, with which I have 
 recently experimented with gratifying results. To 
 my mind it is the most beautiful of this very large 
 family. Despite its beauty, the species will always 
 be scarce and rare, on account of its tenderness, 
 which is a great pity as it is simply superb. 
 
 There are many hardy Ferns, which may be grown 
 almost anywhere. Some of them are very pretty, 
 and worthy of place in any collection. Of these I 
 shall have to treat, separately, as we all want Ferns 
 of some kind, and if we cannot have the stove or 
 greenhouse varieties, must content ourselves with 
 those that are less exotic. 
 
 Most Ferns do much better in a moderate tem- 
 perature. And now that the general public begins 
 to learn that it is not necessary to keep them in the 
 excessive heat of a greenhouse, but that they may 
 be grown in a much cooler atmosphere, their popu- 
 larity, and the demand for them is rapidly increas- 
 ing. 
 
 Hardy Ferns will thrive outside, being mostly 
 deciduous; but they like a shady, sheltered position, 
 good deep soil, and plenty of water. They are 
 helped by a little protection in winter. 
 
 Many of them may be potted and brought into 
 the house. If kept in a moderately warm room, 
 where they do not get too much sun, well watered, 
 and if the soil is not allowed to become sodden, they 
 will grow all winter. But beware of the bugs ; and 
 
Nephrolepis 
 
 31 
 
 be sure that your drainage is perfect for all kinds of 
 Ferns. Remember that they like a rich soil. Good 
 leaf mould from the woods, mixed with some sand, 
 
 .,tf(iir 
 
 NEPHKOLEPIS EXALTATA VAR. BOSTONIENSIS 
 
 suits them very well; or 5^ou can mix with youi 
 earth some peat, if you have it. 
 
 NEPHROLEPIS 
 
 Nephrolepis Exaltata, the Sword Fern, a native of 
 the Southern States, is generally known and appre- 
 ciated as an excellent house plant. 
 
32 Nephrdlepis 
 
 When one commences to write of Ferns it is hard 
 to tell where to stop, the subject is such an intermin- 
 able one, and the genus almost endless. However, 
 I think I have spoken of all that will be useful for 
 the house, unless you wish to have a Wardian Case, 
 or to grow Tree Ferns. 
 
 The first is easily managed; any good florist will 
 fill it for you with suitable varieties: and I hardly 
 think you will aspire to the latter, as they might 
 prove too tall for you, until you are provided with 
 a hot-house. 
 
 ^^ 
 
 
 
 PLATYCEKIUMS 
 
F^latyceriu-ms— F*teris 33 
 
 PLATYCERIUMS 
 
 A small genus of epiphytal Ferns, which form a 
 very attractive and distinct variety. They take their 
 name from platys^ broad, and kcras, a horn ; because 
 their fronds are divided, or shaped like a stag's horns: 
 hence they are commonly known as Stag Horn 
 Ferns. 
 
 Gardeners have various methods of growing them, 
 some using baskets or shallow pans, while others 
 fasten them to blocks of wood with a little peat and 
 sphagnum around their roots. They can be potted 
 in a mixture of rough peat — that is, peat which is 
 left lumpy — and sphagnum, or dried moss; set in a 
 larger pot; and the whole suspended by a wire 
 fastened securely around the rim of the outer pot. 
 Hang in a warm room, and keep wet. The roots 
 will run all over the inner pot, as they feed on air. 
 If taken good care of, they should make fine plants, 
 and will prove very interesting and curious. 
 
 PTERIS 
 
 Pteris is a larger and rather cosmopolitan genus, 
 m"^ny of the species being beautiful, and possessing 
 a number of good qualities. But I have never tried 
 to grow them, so cannot say much on the subject ; 
 though no doubt they would prosper under the same 
 conditions as their friends and relatives. 
 
 Pteris Aquilina, one of this family, is the common 
 Bracken, or Brake Fern. 
 
 There are many other kinds of Ferns; but, as 
 this is not a book on botany, it is not necessary to 
 enumerate them all. 
 
CHAPTER IV 
 
 KIvOWKRIKO PLANTS 
 
 Ageratiini 
 
 BoiLvardias 
 
 CJirysan t lie in ii in 
 
 Daisies 
 
 Datura 
 
 Fuchsia 
 
 Geraimuns 
 
 Heliotrope 
 
 Iberis 
 
 Inipatiens 
 
 Lantana 
 
 Ma her Ilia 
 
 Mignonette 
 
 Nieotiana 
 
 Pansies 
 
 Petunia 
 
 PJiormiuni 
 
 Plumbago 
 
 Reimvardtia 
 
 Salvia 
 
 Violets 
 
 AGERATUM 
 
 IF you have only a few window plants, 
 and wish for a bit of color, 
 Agaratimi should answer well, 
 if it is not too humble for your 
 requirements. While low down 
 socially on the floral ladder, its 
 modest hue is very grateful to 
 the eye. 
 
 To succeed with Agerat^^ms, 
 humble as they are, you must 
 take certain precautions. 
 
 In the first place, for winter 
 bloom, it is best to have young plants, not old ones 
 that have been hard at work all summer. And yet, 
 the poor things will struggle to please, if you cut 
 
 AGERATUM 
 
3G ' BoLivardias 
 
 them sharply back during the last part of August, 
 and force a new growth. But it is much easier to 
 have winter bloom with young, new, vigorous plants, 
 that will not need urging to do their best. 
 
 Cuttings root quickly under our hot August sun. 
 If potted in small pots, shifted to larger ones as soon 
 as these are filled with roots, and so kept growing 
 steadily, the new plants should be well grown ar.d 
 nicely shaped by the time 3^ou wish to take them in — 
 that is, if you have done your duty by them. This 
 is accomplished by pinching, or "nipping in the 
 bud " any premature attempts of theirs to appear on 
 the stage of life, before they have a call, or receive 
 their cue. 
 
 When you take them in, do not give enough water 
 to rot them : they are soft-wooded plants and cannot 
 take care of it, unless growing rapidly in heat. Let 
 them have a vv^arm sunny window. And be sure to 
 invert your plants, and dip them each day in a bucket 
 of water to drown the Red Spider. 
 
 If there is a little common soap in the water it will do 
 no harm. Have the chill off, so that it is comfortable 
 to your hand. Let the water dry on the plants. 
 
 The more you cut off the flowers, the more bloom 
 you may expect. 
 
 BOUVARDIAS 
 
 Named after Dr. Charles Bouvard. They are 
 handsome evergreen shrubs, which all would enjoy 
 and be glad to cultivate, if they knew how to manage 
 them. A well grown plant should be nearly covered 
 with large clusters of delicate, waxy-looking flowers. 
 They come in various shades of pink, pure white, 
 and brilliant scarlet. 
 
 For the house Bouvardias should be potted in good 
 
Botavardia.® 
 
 37 
 
 loam, leaf mould and sand, in equal quantities. But 
 in summer they may be planted outside ; and when 
 given plenty of water, they will make rapid growth. 
 Presently they must be prepared for their winter 
 
 BOUVARDIAS 
 
 work. As soon as they send up enough shoots to 
 make respectable-looking plants, about ten or twelve 
 inches high, cut off the tops to make them branch. 
 In this way you can trim them into neat shapes, well 
 rounded, with a much larger blooming surface than 
 otherwise they would have. If you neglect to pinch 
 
38 Bouvardias 
 
 them, you will have ill shapen, almost flowerless plants. 
 
 Lift Bouvardias in September. Pot them in rich 
 soil, well drained; water thoroughly, and place them 
 in the shade until they recover. 
 
 As soon as they hold up their heads, and appear 
 reconciled to the change by beginning to grow again, 
 take them into the house; give plenty of fresh air 
 from above, and a judicious supply of water — not too 
 much, nor yet too little — with liquid manure once a 
 week as soon as they begin to flower. This they 
 should do before Christmas; and, if not in too hot a 
 position, they should bloom for a long time. The Red 
 Spider, Aphis and Mealy Bug have a great affection 
 for them, and must be fought vigorously. 
 
 When a bloom begins to fade, cut it off, as you 
 would a Rose or Geranium bloom that was dead. 
 Never allow a withered flower to remain on your 
 plants. By this cutting back, as gardeners say, you 
 will induce new shoots and fresh buds, which will 
 soon expand. 
 
 Bouvardias, however, must sometimes rest, like 
 everything else : therefore it is well to have new 
 plants coming on. They are very easy to propagate, 
 rooting quickly from cuttings during the. summer. 
 
 In potting, be sure to have good drainage ; and 
 shade from too strong sunlight. 
 
 But few of these plants are fragrant ; yet it would 
 be hard to find a handsomer sight than a well grown 
 Bouvardia entirely covered with lovely flowers. 
 
 The following are fine varieties: 
 
 Bouvardia Humboldtii Corymbiflora 
 
 Bouvardia Jasminiflora 
 
 They have white, fragrant flowers, and bloom 
 during the winter. 
 
ChLrysanthLemiam 
 
 39 
 
 ^'"j 
 
 CHRYSANTHEMUM 
 
 From cJirysos^ gold, and anthe- 
 ''■-\U'i'^ i^ion, a flower. An exceed- 
 I'OlrS in gly large and very promi- 
 nent genus of herbaceous 
 plants, with which of late 
 years we have become 
 familiar. They win the 
 attention and admiration 
 of all by their pleasing 
 variety of shape, form and 
 coloring; and so far surpass the 
 flower of our grandmothers' days 
 as to be scarcely recognizable as 
 of the same stock, reminding 
 one strongly of the diversity, 
 peculiarities, and dissimilarity 
 we often find among members 
 of the same human family. 
 
 There are so many varieties 
 that it is difficult to decide which 
 to favor and mention first ; as to 
 praise, they all deserve some 
 meed of it, for one merit if not 
 for another. 
 
 We may, however, select the 
 following : 
 
 Incurved=FIowered Chrysanthe- 
 mums 
 
 Recurved Chrysanthemums 
 
 Large Anemone=flowered Chrys= 
 anthemums 
 
 Small A nemone=f lowered Pom= 
 pone Chrysanthemums 
 
40 Clnrysaiilli.emtj.m. 
 
 Pompones Reflexed 
 Japanese Varieties 
 EarIy=flowering Chrysanthemums 
 Late=flowering Chrysanthemums 
 
 Even the Pyrethrums, and Marguerites or Paris 
 Daisies (Chrysanthemum Frutescens), belong- to this 
 innumerable genus. 
 
 To grow these fall beauties successfully is not so 
 difficult as most people imagine. 
 
 There are many of them so perfectly hardy that 
 they can be planted outside in the ground; and with 
 ordinary care they will live for years, growing 
 stronger all the while. 
 
 For these kinds I select a sunny location, and plant 
 in very rich soil; thin them out if they put forth 
 too many shoots; and disbud if I wish to have large 
 blooms — that is, rub off the greater part of the buds, 
 as this throws the strength and vitality into those 
 that are left, making the blooms much larger than 
 otherwise they would be. Do not allow any buds to 
 form before August. Keep the ground about plants 
 mulched with old manure; this prevents it from 
 drying out in hot weather. Turn on the hose every 
 afternoon when the sun has left them, and drench 
 thoroughly. If the Black Flea attack them, sprinkle 
 the leaves with tobacco dust, while they are damp. 
 
 The Early-Flowering Chrysanthemums are the 
 best to grow in the manner above described. Should 
 there be. a threatening of frost, cover them with 
 sheets, or anything, at night. 
 
 They stand quite cold weather. After they have 
 finished blooming, and are nipped by a frost, cut 
 them down to the ground; and cover heavily with 
 leaves and manure. In the early spring, you will 
 
Clnrysan.themum 41 
 
 find them pushing their way up to the light through 
 the kindly covering that lias kept them warm all 
 winter. 
 
 For the house they require a different treatment. 
 You may, however, by judicious management, have 
 their lovely bloom to brighten your home until quite 
 late in the season. 
 
 Keep in well drained pots those plants which you 
 wish to bloom in the house. Start them as early as 
 possible in the spring, using a good loam, not light, 
 mixed with an equal proportion of rotted manure. 
 Cow manure is the best, if you can get it. 
 
 Chrysanthemums require quantities of water; yet 
 the soil must not be allowed to become sour. 
 
 If you have a hose and plenty of water, I should 
 advise the following treatment: Sink the pots to the 
 rim, in 'some place outdoors where they will not get 
 the full glare of the afternoon sun, but sufficient 
 light and air. Every day, without fail, soak the 
 ground all about them. I place mine in rows, about 
 three feet apart each way; keep the weeds out; and 
 flood the whole bed. I also shift or turn the pots 
 frequently, to prevent the roots from growing 
 through, and in order to keep the plants straight. 
 They always have a tendency to lean toward the 
 sun, and if not moved will draw all to one side. 
 
 When about a foot tall, begin to pinch off the 
 terminal buds, that they may throw out side shoots, 
 or laterals, thus making bushy and stocky plants. 
 Let as many shoots grow as will please your fancy, 
 and make a well shaped plant: there is no given 
 rule, it being merely a matter of taste, some prefer- 
 ring more, others less. 
 
 Mulch the top of your pots with old manure, to 
 
J^ 
 
 
Ctirysanthemum 43 
 
 keep the ground from drying out; by this means, 
 also, every time you throw water on the top, nour- 
 ishment will be carried down to the roots. Practi- 
 cally it is the same as giving liquid manure, and 
 tends to develop a strong root growth, which Chry- 
 santhemums need. They must have plenty of room 
 for such development, and never be allowed to 
 become pot-bound. Should this occur, you will not 
 have fine plants, as it gives a check that cannot be 
 undone. You may obviate the difficulty by examin- 
 ing the roots every now and then; and, if they 
 entirely fill the pots, by slipping the mass out, and 
 transferring to pots of larger size. 
 
 Possibly your plants will need to be changed three 
 or four times if you wish to make the most of them. 
 At first, as you understand, they are in very small 
 pots; but by the blooming period, that is about Sep- 
 tember, a large plant may require a ten-inch pot. 
 
 To summarize : Remember that Chrysanthemums 
 want a great deal of water; are gross feeders; should 
 have liquid manure when blooming; and are shaped 
 by pinching and training to suit your individual 
 taste. 
 
 Keep them back until August, and then let the 
 buds form. 
 
 If you desire to have large flowers, such as you see 
 in florists' windows, or at flower shows, you must 
 rub or pinch off the greater part of the buds; it is 
 only by this means, called disbudding, that they are 
 made. 
 
 Sometimes, in order to obtain an exceptionally 
 large flower, gardeners will leave only one or two 
 buds on; and but two or three shoots, or even a 
 single shoot to a plant. The roots, having but this 
 
44 Clrirysa.nLthiemij.m 
 
 one shoot and bud to nourish, throw all their strength 
 into it, making an abnormally large flower, over 
 which the generality of people will be lost in amaze- 
 ment, not understanding the secret of its produc- 
 tion. 
 
 These potted Chrysanthemums may be left out 
 imtil quite late ; but must surely be inside before the 
 appearance of a frost. On mild days, however, they 
 can hardly be kept too open and cool. 
 
 Accustom them gradually to the change of tempera- 
 ture. Any sudden transition will be apt to turn the 
 foliage yellow, which gives them an unsightly ap- 
 pearance, and also weakens both plants and flowers: 
 one must bear in mind that the leaves are their 
 lungs. 
 
 Keep your windows down at the tops to give them 
 air. Sprinkle the leaves if possible. While they 
 never must know the want of water, or ever become 
 dry^ yet they will not require so much water when 
 flowering. 
 
 Wash 2£/^// before moving into the house, to dis- 
 possess the Chrysanthemum Flea, which is a great 
 pest. If the vermin reappears, you will have to dis- 
 lodge it with tobacco dust, blown on with a small 
 bellows; but do not get this on your flowers. 
 
 Another way is to take the plants outside, if the 
 whether is mild enough, and wash them with a solu- 
 tion of whale oil soap. Even common laundry soap 
 is good, if clear water will not rid you of the fleas. 
 But, whatever you tise, the advice holds good: keep 
 it from the flowers, as it will spoil their bloom. 
 
 In applying any of these insecticides, it is always 
 best to rinse olf the plant with clear water within 
 twenty-fo'ur hours. 
 
ChLrysarLthiemi_im. 45 
 
 If you have many plants, some early, others late, 
 or medium; and have a cold room, yet one where 
 they will not freeze; you can, by a little good man- 
 agement, have cut flowers, or blooming plants until 
 nearly Christmas. They will begin to open up their 
 bloom in succession, being retarded somewhat by the 
 temperature of the room. You can take one or more 
 at a time into the heat of your living-room, and the 
 sunshine of your pet window. Here they should 
 mature to perfection, unfolding all their glorious 
 panoply of color in gorgeous array, elating you with 
 pride at your success, and making you an object 
 of envy to all your visitors. 
 
 By having a few of each of the many varieties, and 
 keeping them as cool as possible, well watered, and 
 vigorous, you can prolong the blooming period, more 
 and more, as you learn by experience their wants, 
 and just how to manage them. 
 
 As the florists have, by experimenting, induced 
 Chrysanthemums to linger with us to an indefinite 
 period : so now they are trying to reverse their 
 methods and inveigle them into unfolding their 
 beauty much earlier. This is particularly gratifying to 
 the plants' admirers, who have no facilities for raising 
 or keeping them anywhere but outside : we are thus 
 enabled, by planting the early sons, to get the benefit 
 of their bloom before they are cut ofl: by frost. 
 
 After Chrysanthemums have finished flowering, 
 cut them back; and set away the pots in some cool, 
 well lighted, but frost- proof cellar or room. They will 
 need no attention until about the first of March. 
 Then take them out; and you probably will find that 
 the greater portion have started, and thrown up 
 many sprouts 
 
4:6 Ctirysantlnerntjim 
 
 Place them in the light, and water them ; they 
 should soon commence to grow vigorously. 
 
 These sprouts, and a portion of the roots attached, 
 generally can be cut from the parent plant with a 
 sharp knife. 
 
 Pot these cuttings, singly, in small pots of rich soil; 
 water carefully imtil you find them growing well; 
 and change to larger pots as fast as the small ones 
 become filled with roots. They must not be checked, 
 
 CllKYSANTHEMUMS 
 
 but kept growing steadily all the while. This will 
 make a wonderful difference in their appearance and 
 florescence during the coming season. 
 
 I believe that I have given you about all my 
 personal knowledge of the genus Chrysanthemum, 
 though there probably is much more to be known 
 regarding them. It appears unnecessary to recom- 
 mend any particular member of the family, as most 
 all of them are good, and individual tastes differ, 
 
Daisies 
 
 47 
 
 each of us having especial pets or loves. And, 
 while I could go into ecstasies over my own favor- 
 ites, having a very expansive heart for all the floral 
 world, I am fearful that the list, once begun, might 
 be interminable. So it seems best to suggest to you 
 a conference with some reliable dealer in these 
 autumn queens. vShould I, however, name any as 
 fascinating pets, I think it would be some of the 
 charming Ostrich Plume variet3\ 
 
 DAISIES 
 
 'yh^ Their botanical name is Bellis. They 
 i JtL ^i"s hardy herbaceous perennials, 
 ^^^j which, like Pansies, may be ar- 
 ranged during the autumn in low 
 boxes, or ''flats," as gardeners call 
 them; and covered up, in the same 
 manner suggested for Pansies, for 
 early spring blooming. 
 
 These boxes or flats can be made 
 
 to fit your windows. Being only 
 
 a few inches wide and deep, they 
 
 DAISIES occupy but little space ; they are 
 
 not much trouble ; and you will find the Daisies very 
 
 cheering as bright heralds of advancing spring. 
 
 Prepare your flats in the size you wish ; fill them 
 with good loam, and put in your plants. Sink these, 
 as advised for Pansies ; and cover with leaves before 
 frost. 
 
 Bring the boxes inside to a warm position when 
 you wish to start the plants into active growth. 
 Water them carefully; and, when sufficiently ad- 
 vanced, give them a shady window where they will 
 get only the morning sun. 
 
48 
 
 Datuira 
 
 DATURA 
 
 This is generally an annual. The shrubby va- 
 rieties, in my opinion the best of the family, are 
 termed Brugmansias. 
 
 The foliage of Daturas is rather coarse-looking; 
 but they can be trained into handsomely shaped 
 
 DATURA 
 
 Specimens of miniature trees, from which the large 
 flowers, white, yellow, violet, or red, hang in pro- 
 fusion. They are worth growing, if you have room, 
 and care to experiment with them. 
 
 In summer they do well out-of-doors, where you 
 can train them into any shape that suits your fancy. 
 In fall you may either bring them into the sitting- 
 
Datura 49 
 
 room, or store them in a cool cellar where they will 
 be dry. 
 
 Daturas bear severe pruning, and may be cut to 
 keep in any form or size. The best time to prune 
 or trim them, is immediately after they have finished 
 flowering-, or in the fall. 
 
 Brugmansias, or shrubby Daturas, are naturally 
 evergreens ; but they do well when treated as decid- 
 uous, that is, when allowed to drop their leaves; 
 they should then be put away somewhere to rest 
 awhile, from about December until February. You 
 may, however, let them continue growling right on. 
 
 They must be kept dry and cool when resting in 
 the winter. 
 
 The head may be made by stopping the main stem ; 
 this is done by pinching when it becomes sufficiently 
 tall. Keep all side shoots or laterals rubbed off 
 until this main stem has attained the proper height. 
 After you have stopped its growth upward, let it 
 throw out branches until it gets a round handsome 
 shape; you need not hesitate to trim the plant to 
 accomplish this. 
 
 When it has once developed into the required 
 form and size, each year's growth may be cut back, 
 directly after flowering, to where the leading- 
 branches originate. 
 
 Old plants do better than young ones, flowering 
 much more freely. 
 
 When they are blooming, manure water is very 
 beneficial ; it not only gives strength to the plants, 
 but also increases the size and quantity of the 
 flowers. 
 
 Daturas are apt to be infested with White Scale, 
 for which you must keep a sharp lookout. 
 
50 Kiachisia 
 
 Datura Suaveolens also known under the synonym 
 Brugmansia Suaveolens, has large, sweet-scented, 
 white flowers. It is a handsome greenhouse shrub, 
 from Mexico, and makes a good standard. 
 
 Datura Sanguinea is a summer bloomer, which can 
 be trained into a very handsome plant. Its stems 
 are arboreous, or treelike, and the flowers orange- 
 yellow. 
 
 Some varieties have double flowers and are said to 
 be very fine; but I have never seen them. 
 
 FUCHSIA 
 
 A genus of some fifty species, mostly natives of 
 Central and South America, having been brought 
 from Mexico, ChiH and Peru. It was named after 
 Leonard Flichs, a German botanist, who lived in the 
 sixteenth century. It is one of the most ornamen- 
 tal and popular of garden plants. 
 
 Fuchsias love shade and moisture, with a rich soil, 
 preferring fine leaf mould and sand. If you cannot 
 get leaf mould, use the best soil you have; but make 
 it porous, that it may not become sodden. These 
 plants must have plenty of water; and be sure that 
 your drainage is perfect. If they get dry, they will 
 drop both leaves, and buds. 
 
 Do not use very small pots. Fuchsias require 
 ample room in which to develop their roots; if they 
 become pot-bound, it checks their growth for a long 
 time. Shift to larger-sized pots as soon as the earth 
 becomes filled with roots; water the roots and syringe 
 he foliage daily. Allow them, while growing and 
 blooming, only the early morning sun; give occa- 
 sional doses of manure water; and you should have 
 
52 Focti^sia 
 
 fine-looking plants covered with large and beautiful 
 flowers. 
 
 While Fuchsias are lovely summer-blooming 
 plants, they cannot continue flowering all winter, as 
 they must have rest. If not planted out, but kept in 
 their pots, they may continue bearing through No- 
 vember, and part of December; then they should be 
 set away in some c^)ol place where they will not 
 freeze, with just enough moisture allowed to prevent 
 their drying up. 
 
 When they show signs of growth in the spring, 
 repot and trim them; give them more water, gradu- 
 ally ; they soon will be attending to the season's work, 
 and be ready to take their place again in your favorite 
 window. The older your plant, the more graceful 
 and beautiful it will be. 
 
 They must have a support of some kind, as they 
 are very brittle, and apt to be broken. 
 
 Fuchsias may be grown in a variety of shapes to 
 suit the taste, by training to stakes, and pinching. 
 
 Cut them back quite closely when you trim them 
 in the spring, so that when they break into new 
 growth they may make stocky and shapely plants. 
 Thus they will present a much better appearance 
 than if allowed to follow their own sweet will; in the 
 latter case they are sure to be straggling and un- 
 gainly. Indeed there are few plants which are not 
 improved by a judicious use of the pruning-shears. 
 
 Their mortal foe is the Red Spider, which will cer- 
 tainly attack them in a dry atmosphere. To avoid 
 this, syringe them daily, throwing the water up on 
 the underside of the foliage. If this is not done, and 
 the insects get leeway, they will soon ruin your cher- 
 ished plants. 
 
Geranit_ims 53 
 
 When Fuchsias are outside, if you wish to prolong- 
 their blooming in the fall, you may do so by nipping 
 off the terminals, which will force them to throw out 
 many laterals, thus producing fine full heads. If you 
 pick off all buds that form until about the middle or 
 last part of August; them let them make as many as 
 they will; and feed them liberally; they will remain 
 in bloom a long time. But to do this they must have 
 a light, airy, and very cool situation; must be kept in 
 their pots all the while; and be frequently turned, to 
 IDrevent the roots from growing through, and the 
 plants from being drawn by the sun. 
 
 Another way to have them late in the house, is to 
 start young plants the fir.vtweek in August, and force 
 them ahead with rich feeding. 
 
 I have said that Fuchsias were only summer 
 bloomers. Excepting a few stray flowers, I have 
 heard of but one which will bloom in winter, namely, 
 
 Speciosa 
 
 Phenomenal is a grand summer-blooming plant with 
 enormous flowers. 
 
 Florists now offer many beautiful Fuchsias, which 
 are improvements upon the older varieties. They 
 are exceedingly numerous, as the catalogues every 
 year present some so-called new type or types for our 
 consideration. One can hardly go astray, however, 
 in making a selection, as, under proper cultivation, 
 they all have decided merit. 
 
 Storm King is a favorite of mine. 
 
 GERANIUMS 
 
 It would be hard to find plants better known than 
 these, or more popular, as we meet them everywhere, 
 and no garden is without them. They have been hy- 
 
54 GerairLitams 
 
 bridized, and crossed, until the old type is hardly 
 recognizable in the varied and multitudinous fancy 
 specimens, which the progressive gardener has pro- 
 duced for our delectation. 
 
 They flourish in an}^ good soil, but must have 
 proper drainage and all the sun possible. 
 
 Out-of-doors they take care of themselves to a cer- 
 tain extent, and require no particular cultural direc- 
 tions. 
 
 Inside in winter, it is a different story. I have seen 
 them thriving in apparently impossible situations. 
 On the other hand, I have struggled to keep them 
 alive by bestowing upon them the most tender atten- 
 tions, only to see them gently fade away. My fortune 
 thus continued to vary until I discovered the true in- 
 wardness and secret of it all, in studying the require- 
 ments of their existence. 
 
 In the first place, plants that you wish to go on 
 growing and blooming in the house during the win- 
 ter, must be prepared for it during the summer by 
 being kept in their pots, instead of being put into the 
 ground, as most people do with them. Get young 
 plants to begin with, and, as soon as they are four or 
 five inches high, commence pinching them, taking off 
 the top; this will force them to send out laterals. Nip 
 these also, to form side growth; and continue the pro- 
 cess until you have secured a nice, bushy, compact 
 plant, well covered with leaves, in place of an un- 
 gainly, tall, awkward-looking specimen. By making 
 it form branches close to the roots, and letting these 
 form branches in turn, you can obtain a lovely, 
 gracefully rounded plant, which will have an ex- 
 tended blooming surface from these various tops, or 
 ends of branches. 
 
Geraniums 
 
 55 
 
 Having gotten your plants into good shape, keep 
 them as dormant as possible; this is accomplished by 
 not giving more water than is necessary to prevent 
 them from drying out during the summer months. 
 The reason is, in order that they may be rested and 
 ready for the winter work ; for they must have rest, 
 
 GERANIUMS 
 
 and, if you do not give it to them, they will take it 
 when you most desire their active service. 
 
 Nex.t, scrupulously remove every bud that ventures 
 an appearance. 
 
 About September first, repot the plants in good 
 
56 Geraniums 
 
 rich loam, after shaking off most of the old soil; 
 water thoroughly; and get them growing vigorously 
 by cold weather. Be sure that the pots are not too 
 large, but just hold them comfortably; the roots are 
 small, and do not need very much room. Moreover, 
 as in the case of many other blooming plants. Gera- 
 niums, if the pots are too large, will either be sickly 
 and possibly die, or will run to root, as gardeners 
 say, at the expense of the tops and all hope of bloom. 
 
 Keep them outside as long as they can escape 
 frost; and, when you do bring them into the house, 
 keep them in as cool a position as is possible, short 
 of freezing — such as in a room without fire, or one 
 that is not in use, where you can shut off the furnace 
 heat. They do not like the dry heat, though they 
 can be induced to stand it by careful watering, and 
 by giving air frequently — opening every mild day 
 some door or window, not on, but near by them. 
 
 See that the leaves are kept clean. If you have 
 any means of sprinklings it will benefit them, as they 
 delight in a shower-bath until they begin blooming. 
 Then give more water, being sure, however, that 
 your drainage is so perfect that the soil cannot 
 become sour or sodden. 
 
 It is a good guiding rule to wait until the earth 
 gets dry or crumbly on top of pots before watering; 
 then drench well, seeing that the water passes read- 
 ily through the soil and into the saucer; here it 
 must not be allowed to stand, as any considerable 
 quantity of it will rot the roots. If your earth is in 
 proper condition, and has not been allowed to 
 entirely dry out, water should disappear in a few 
 moments when poured on the top of soil, coming out 
 into the saucers. 
 
Geraniums 57 
 
 If you will observe a florist's plants, you will 
 notice that they appear moist and compact, but never 
 muddy, or sodden-looking-. The secret of this is the 
 drainage, and the gritty sand almost always incor- 
 porated with the loam. 
 
 Place Geraniums in your sunniest windows, near 
 the glass ; for, while they protest against furnace or 
 dry heat, they love the sun, and the more they get 
 the better they like it. 
 
 When they begin to bloom, as they should with- 
 out delay — if they had not already commenced be- 
 fore being brought in — they will be grateful for a 
 little weak manure water, given about once a week, 
 and will show their gratitude by increased and 
 larger bloom. 
 
 If, after all these suggestions have been faithfully 
 carried out on your part, the plants do not gladden 
 your very soul with their beauty, they are simply 
 sulking, and do not deserve a place of honor by your 
 fireside, but should be relegated to the cool cellar, 
 if you possess one, and hung up by their heels, or 
 roots rather, to live or die as they think best until 
 another season. 
 
 Some people think that a Geranium is of no further 
 use after it is a year old ; but, as a matter of fact, 
 the longer you keep them the more beautiful they 
 become. I have met with plants many seasons old 
 that were ''things of beauty and a joy forever," 
 grown to an enormous size, and covered with masses 
 of bloom. I have often seen the low windows of 
 some mere shanty, a barber shop, or some small 
 store, filled with the beauties, possibly growing in a 
 tin can, brilliant with clusters of flowers. The 
 reason why they appeared so prosperous and happ3% 
 
58 Geraniiams 
 
 was that they were kept not too hot, and had no dry 
 furnace heat or gas to contend with. 
 
 There are many classes in the Geranium family, 
 and each one has its partisans, though all of the 
 tribe are general favorites. 
 
 Among the sweet-scented we have the popular 
 and well known 
 
 Rose Geranium. This is fine for cutting, but un- 
 fortunately it is very susceptible to Aphides, and 
 consequently needs much watering: not only does 
 it attract the pests, but they soon spread to your 
 other plants, and the whole ^group may become in- 
 fested. 
 
 Lemon Qeranium has a coarser leaf, but is desirable. 
 
 Apple Qeranium is very graceful, and delightfully 
 fragrant. 
 
 Nutmeg Qeranium is a dwarf with a spicy odor. 
 
 These varieties, which are grown simply for their 
 foliage, should have more pot room than those of 
 the flowering kind. 
 
 Ivy Leaf Qeraniums have been brought to a state 
 of great perfection, and are exquisitely beautiful, 
 with their dark, ivy-shaped, waxen-looking leaves, 
 and large trusses of lovely tinted bloom. They are 
 increasing in popularity every year, being excellent 
 subjects for vases or hanging baskets. They also 
 look well in pots on brackets, or can be tied up with 
 bast on a trellis, which shows off their bloom with 
 good effect. 
 
 The double sorts are much handsomer than the sin- 
 gle. They are all so lovely that it is difficult to make 
 a selection. They come in white, and shades of pink ; 
 and the florists have lately produced a rich scarlet. 
 
Geraniiams 59 
 
 Zonals, or Bedding: Geraniums, are so multitudinous 
 that it is hard to give a:i adequate description of 
 them. They are continually increasing in number, 
 and each year, through cross-breeding and hybridiz- 
 ing, there are introduced many new ones which 
 are improvements on their progenitors. Individual 
 tastes differ to such a degree that it is well for each 
 one to make his or her own choice, especially as most 
 of the varieties are good. Some may like the single 
 bloomers best, while others will prefer the double 
 type. It is hard to go astray ; and any respectable 
 florist, or florist's catalogue will assist you in making 
 a decision. My own chief effort is to enlighten those 
 in ignorance as to the wants of their plants, and how 
 to care for them. 
 
 Besides those above mentioned we have the fol- 
 lowing specimens, which are used for ornamental 
 bedding as well as pot culture, and require the same 
 treatment as the others : 
 
 Silver Geraniums 
 Bronze Geraniums 
 
 Still again come 
 
 Lady Washington Geraniun*s. They are so numer- 
 ous and varied in their beautiful coloring that it 
 would be indeed a labor of love to attempt their 
 description. 
 
 With so many to choose from it is difficult to make 
 an error. 
 
 I do not recommend these last named fancy 
 Pelargoniums as window plants for the winter; they 
 have to be kept almost at the freezing point, and 
 very dry, to rest them for their spring blooming, 
 which does not then continue long. So, while they 
 
Heliotrope — Iberis 
 
 never fail to excite our admiration, I do not think 
 their bloom prolific enough to repay the care which 
 thev demand. 
 
 HELIOTROPE 
 
 Heliotropiums, or Heliotropes, a name by which 
 they are generally called and better known, can, like 
 
 Mignonettes, be grown 
 in the house in medium- 
 sized pots, and with very 
 similar general treat- 
 ment. They, also, re- 
 quire to be kept cool 
 when inside, as much 
 dry heat will quickly 
 shrivel both bloom and 
 foliage, making them 
 look as if they had been 
 through a fire. Exces- 
 sive heat will soon finish 
 these plants, while too 
 much cold will do the same. You must, therefore, 
 strike a happy mean, and endeavor to keep them in 
 about fifty-five degrees of heat during the winter. 
 
 Young plants kept in a warm position outside 
 during the summer — to well ripen the wood — not 
 allowed to bloom, trained and pinched into good- 
 shaped specimens, taken into the house in September, 
 carefully watered, and kept cool, should make an 
 effective return for the attention shown them. 
 
 HELIOTROPE 
 
 IBERIS 
 
 Candytuft. This also will make a bright spot 
 amidst your winter verdure. It is called after 
 Iberia, the Greek name for Spain. The genus com- 
 
Impatiens 
 
 61 
 
 prises a good many species, all of which do well in 
 ordinary garden soil, provided they have plenty of 
 sun and air. 
 
 They are increased b)^ seed, division, or cuttings. 
 
 Some of the sub-shrubby varieties make handsome, 
 compact-looking plants. 
 
 Iberis Coronaria. Rocket Candytuft, is a fine 
 annual species, pure wliite in 
 color, bearing dense spikes at 
 the tops of the stems. 
 
 Iberis Semperflorens (ever 
 flowering), is a fragrant peren- 
 nial, large and white, growing 
 about two feet high ; it blooms 
 from autumn until spring. 
 
 Iberis Sempervirens is an ever- 
 green candytuft, bearing long 
 pure white flowers thoughout 
 the spring and summer. This 
 
 is a shrubby species, one of the best perennial varie- 
 ties, and exceedingly useful in almost any style of 
 gardening. 
 
 There are many other varieties of Candytuft. All 
 are easily grown, and will do nearly as well in pots 
 as in the ground. They are effective in the house 
 chiefly by way of contrast with the greens of other 
 
 plants. 
 
 IMPATIENS 
 
 A name given to the Balsam family, meaning im- 
 patient. If you are acquainted with the tribe, you 
 will wonder what I can have to say about them for 
 house culture. 
 
 I wish to recommend a member of the family, 
 which I think you will appreciate. 
 
 IBERIS 
 
62 
 
 Lanta.n^ 
 
 Impatientes are a genus containing many species; 
 they are very easily grown, being readily raised 
 from seed ; and do well in any ordinary light soil. 
 I shall refer to only one variety, for the window 
 garden ; though they are all excellent annuals for 
 the summer garden. 
 
 Impatiens Sultani is a perennial herb which will 
 bloom most of the year, being almost a continuous 
 flowerer; and, while there are more elegant plants, 
 it is such a cheery little thing that I am sure you 
 will find it just the bit of color 
 needed to lighten up your more 
 sombre greens. 
 
 It comes from Zanzibar orig- 
 inally, I believe, but is now quite 
 at home with us. The flowers 
 are a bright scarlet, differing 
 from the rest of the Balsams in 
 the petals being quite flat, sin- 
 gle, and clustering in masses 
 over the head of the plant in 
 a manner that is very pleasing 
 to the eye. 
 It is one of the prettiest and most easily grown of 
 plants, doing well outside ; and asking in the house 
 only rich, open soil, not too much water, not too 
 much pot room, with a moderately cool and dry 
 atmosphere, to repay you with a wealth of bloom. 
 
 IMPATIENS SULTANI 
 
 LANTANA 
 
 Said to bean old Italian name for "Wayfaring- 
 tree." It is a genus of some fifty species of stove 
 evergreen shrubs, or herbs, that have always been 
 very popular, particularly for window gardening. 
 
Nl a. he mi a 63 
 
 They are not at all difficult to manage, and give 
 quantities of bloom during six or seven months of 
 the year. They are readily increased, if you desire 
 new plants, by cuttings in August or September; 
 and like a generous soil of rich loam and manure. 
 
 If you wish to grow them in tree shape, pinch or 
 prune until their form pleases you, as they will stand 
 any amount of it. 
 
 When they are growing freely, be liberal with 
 water. Young plants do well outside in summer. 
 But old ones, cut back and repotted, make better 
 house plants than very 3^oung ones ; their growth 
 being shorter-jointed, produces a larger amount of 
 flowers. 
 
 They range through many shades of red, orange, 
 white, purplish red, straw color and rose ; and may 
 be grouped effectively on account of this diversit}^ 
 Lantanas to some are not very pleasant in their 
 odor; but personally I am fond of growing them. 
 
 MAHERNIA 
 
 Mahernia Odorata, generally known as Honey Bell, 
 belongs to a genus of some thirty species of pretty 
 greenhouse herbs; not many of them, however, are 
 cultivated. This one of the family is not brilliantly 
 attractive ; but it is worth growing for its fragrance, 
 which will fill the house if you can spare it some 
 shady spot. It bears small yellow flowers, belJ- 
 shaped; and if you set it where it can hang or droop 
 over, pinching off the young shoots repeatedly, to 
 force a lateral growth and keep it from straggling, 
 you will scarcely regret the space it occupies. 
 
 Mahernias like a light, rich, well drained soil, kept 
 
64 NUgnonette 
 
 moderately wet ; their leaves also should be sprinkled, 
 or dipped in tepid water, every day. 
 
 Mahernia Glabrata has rather large, yellow, drooping 
 flowers, somewhat like a Jonquil in fragrance. It 
 comes from the Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 riahernia Incisa, also from the Cape, is a dark crim- 
 son when in the bud, but in opening gradually be- 
 comes yellowish. It is an attractive shrub, flowering 
 in the latter part of summer. 
 
 These plants propagate freely during summer, 
 from cuttings of young shoots. 
 
 MIGNONETTE 
 
 Reseda Odorata. A well known plant that many 
 people are fond of. It has no especial value to me, 
 except for its fragrance, which is very pleasing. 
 Others, possibly, may like to know how to take care 
 of it, and make it grow in the house. 
 
 To begin with, have the pot, or pots, perfectly 
 clo-<n and properly drained; then fill them with a 
 CO npost of about two parts loam, one of dried cow 
 V anure, and one of old sifted mortar, if you can get it. 
 
 Careful handling is necessary, as the shoots are 
 very brittle; and the individual plants, before they 
 get large enough to fall about, inust each be tied to 
 a stick. 
 
 If you grow your plants from seed, sprinkle a few 
 seed in August in five or six-inch pots prepared as 
 just suggested; then do the same again in Septem- 
 ber for succession, if you wish to prolong the bloom- 
 ing period. Cover lightly, water, and place in some 
 cool spot, where they can remain, possibly tmtil 
 October, if there be no frost. 
 
Nlignonette 
 
 65 
 
 When they come up, and are grown large enough, 
 thin them out imtil they are about an inch apart, 
 taking out the poorest. Give plenty of water at the 
 roots in summer; but it never must be allowed to 
 stagnate. In winter give very sparingly without ever 
 entirely withholding. 
 
 MIGNONETTE 
 
 As the days lengthen, and your plants begin to 
 grow freely, tJien give an abundance of water. 
 
 In the house, a shelf in a light position, where 
 they can get plenty of outside air — though this must 
 not be cold enough to chill or freeze them — in a tem- 
 
66 
 
 Nicotiana. 
 
 perature of from forty to fifty-five degrees, will suit 
 them admirably. 
 
 When flowering, weak manure water will be very 
 helpful, and increase the size of the bloom. 
 
 NICOTIANA 
 
 Called after Jean Nicot, who introduced Tobacco 
 into France; it is a genus of some fifty species. The 
 Tobacco that most women loathe is an important 
 member of the family. But 
 even this disgraceful fact has 
 not been the means of con- 
 demning or ostracizing all the 
 rest; for some of them are 
 greatly admired in tropical 
 gardening; and they do re- 
 markably well as house plants. 
 They like a rich, deep soil, 
 .and a rather moist situation. 
 Given these, they will grow 
 rapidly. 
 
 Nicotiana Affinis is the variety 
 with which I am most familiar. The flower has a long 
 slender tube, and is white inside, greenish outside, 
 and hairy all over except within the corolla. It will 
 thrive and bloom freely in a six-inch pot, making a 
 very pretty decoration for the house, and can be 
 plunged outside in summer. The flowers are partly 
 closed during the day, but open about six p. m., and 
 emit a strong perfume during the night. This is a 
 half hardy annual herb. 
 
 Nicotiana Fragrans, from the Isle of Pines south of 
 Cuba, will grow three or four feet high, and is a very 
 fragrant, cool, greenhouse herb. 
 
 NICOTIANA 
 
Pansies 67 
 
 Nicotiana Glauca, from Buenos Ayres, is a shrub, 
 bearing- yellow flowers covered all over with a soft 
 down. 
 
 Nicotiana Tabacum is the common Tobacco, and has 
 downy rose-colored bloom. 
 
 Nicotiana Acutiflora, from Brazil, is a handsome 
 annual herb, which blooms from June until frost. 
 
 Nicotiana Wigandioides is a pretty greenhouse shrub 
 with yellowish-white flowers; it is an excellent plant 
 for tropical grouping outside in summer. 
 
 PANSIES 
 
 Many people who are fond of Pansies, and would 
 like to have them in their living-rooms, turning their 
 windows in the early spring days into miniature 
 gardens, can readily succeed when once they learn 
 how to grow them. 
 
 If, during August, you have pansies growing- out- 
 side, take from them and root, in some cool moist 
 spot, enough scions to fill a box — or boxes if you 
 wish to have many — about five or six inches deep, 
 long enough to fit your windows, and about five 
 inches wide. Have some holes in the boxes, and 
 sufficient drainage. An inch of rubble, or small 
 pebbles strewed thickly over the bottom, will do. 
 Fill with rich sandy soil, and plant in it your rooted 
 cuttings. 
 
 Just before frost, dig out the ground in the most 
 sheltered corner you have, and sink your box in this 
 pit, packing the loose soil firmly against it on all 
 sides. And before the first frost, cover the box well 
 with leaves, or salt hay, throwing a little brush on 
 top to prevent its blowing away. This will keep the 
 
Pansier 
 
 cuttings from freezing", and encourage root formation. 
 
 If they should be covered with snow it will cause 
 no injury, but, on the contrary, will keep them warm 
 and protect them against cold. 
 
 There should be no danger of water settling about, 
 
 or in your boxes, and freezing, which would destroy 
 the Pansies. If the place is well drained, you need 
 have no further care, until you are ready to use the 
 plants. 
 
 In covering them over, be sure that you leave 
 
F*etonia 69 
 
 plenty of ventilation; they must neither be smoth- 
 ered, nor kept too warm. 
 
 In the latter instance, they would commence grow- 
 ing; and when you needed them, you might find 
 that they had exhausted all their energies unseen 
 and unappreciated. 
 
 At any time from February on, when you wish to 
 see their pretty faces near you, lift your box, wash it 
 off, and bring it into the house. Give them a light 
 window, where they will get only the morning sun. 
 A northern one is good, because it is cooler; and 
 they must not be kept too warm. Attend carefully 
 to watering. Pick off all flowers as soon as they 
 begin to fade, or sooner if you wish them : the more 
 you cut, the more bloom you will have. 
 
 Pansies are gross feeders, and enjoy weak manure 
 water. 
 
 Do not let them form seed, if you wish flowers. 
 
 Varieties are endless. You must select for your- 
 self. 
 
 PETUNIA 
 
 From petun^ the Brazilian for Tobacco. A name 
 given on account of the relation of this plant to the 
 genus Nicotiana, both being of the same order, So- 
 lanaceae, to which also Nightshade, Solanum, be- 
 longs. 
 
 These plants are very showy and effective, either 
 for the summer border, or when grown in pots for 
 the house. Florists have of late years made great 
 improvements in them ; they are quite different from 
 the specimens known two or three generations ago ; 
 and some of the double varieties are very beautiful. 
 
 Petunias, which are easily raised and cared for, 
 should, in order to make bushy and compact plants. 
 
70 
 
 F*etonia 
 
 be pinched before they g-row very tall. They like a 
 g-ood soil with some manure in it, and plenty of 
 water. They need also to be supported in some 
 manner, either by being fastened to slender stakes, 
 or by being trained against a light trellis. 
 
 They give an abundance of bloom towards the 
 end of summer, through the fall months, and during 
 the greater portion of winter. When they are ex- 
 hausted, and are forced to stop to recuperate, cut 
 them sharply back to within an inch or two of the 
 pots; give manure water about 
 once a week ; and they will soon 
 throw up new shoots, which in a 
 little while will again be work- 
 ing diligently to supply you 
 with flowers. 
 
 Some persons say that the 
 
 single varieties are best for the 
 
 house. I am not prepared to 
 
 dispute the point, but think the 
 
 double ones much handsomer. 
 
 They all need to be cut back 
 
 quite frequently, as the flowers 
 
 are produced on the new shoots: you will have 
 
 hut little bloom if you neglect to prune in such a 
 
 way as to force the production of new branches. 
 
 Petunias can be raised from seed. But where you 
 wish only a few plants, it is as well to purchase them 
 of a florist; from these you can propagate other 
 plants in the spring. 
 
 It is advisable to use* cuttings in making new 
 plants for winter bloom. Though the old ones may 
 be forced to prolong their blooming period, their 
 younger and more vigorous progeny will be more 
 
 PETUNIA 
 
Phormiuim. 71 
 
 reliable. If you start cuttings about two weeks 
 apart, for succession, you can have Petunias in flower 
 during the greater part of the year. 
 
 By starting some in February, and more again in 
 March, you will be supplied for the summer. From 
 these again, or from the old ones, start others from 
 May until August, to provide for the winter. Their 
 different ages will cause a succession, which should 
 furnish you with active workers; and, as one after 
 another becomes exhausted, you can cut it back, and 
 set it away to rest, putting one of its younger rela- 
 tives in its place. 
 
 PHORMIUM 
 
 From phormos^ a basket. Order Liliaceae. Com- 
 monly called Flax Lily, or New Zealand Flax. This 
 is a very small genus of herbs with fleshy roots, com- 
 ing from New Zealand, and nearly hardy. 
 
 Phormiums are easily grown in good rich loam. 
 Large specimens, with their erect swordlike leaves, 
 make an exceedingly fine effect, either outside or in 
 the house, among Palms, Cycads and other tropical 
 plants. 
 
 Water them sparingly during winter, but do not 
 let them dry up. 
 
 To increase your stock, divide the crowns before 
 active growth begins in the spring. 
 
 Phormium Tenax, meaning tough, is the common 
 New Zealand Flax with variable yellow, or red flow- 
 ers, and dark green rigid foliage. It attains a height 
 of from three to six feet, the tips of the leaves split- 
 ting as they grow old. 
 
 Phormium Tenax Variegatum is a pretty dark green 
 plant, handsomely striped with white and yellow. 
 
72 F*liJim.t)ago 
 
 Phormium Tenax Veitchianum is a fine variety with 
 shorter leaves of a pea green color; these have a 
 band of creamy white extending down their whole 
 length. 
 
 Phormium Tenax Nigro Pictum, a black spotted, com- 
 pact grower, with smaller leaves, is of a more dwarf 
 habit than the rest of the type. 
 
 Phormium Cookianum Variegatum is a beautifully 
 marked plant, smaller and handsomer in every way 
 than Phormium Tenax; and its leaves are not liable 
 to split at the ends. 
 
 PLUMBAGO 
 
 A well known large genus of greenhouse, or hardy 
 perennial herbs, with an occasional shrubby variety 
 among them. They are desirable for color effect, 
 one or two of the number being good winter bloomers, 
 and adapted to house culture. 
 
 Plumbago Capensis, from the Cape of Good Hope, is 
 a climbing or decumbent shrub, with loose clusters 
 of pale blue flowers, which are produced on the new 
 growth. It is a strong, rampant grower, and needs 
 careful pruning to keep it in shape; it is also a re- 
 markably free bloomer, flowering all through the 
 summer and the greater part of winter. 
 
 Its color is rare among plants, for there are very 
 few blue flowers produced by Nature. 
 
 Cut these plants sharply back about every two 
 months; keep them growing; and give manure water 
 to strengthen the bloom. They like a warm situa- 
 tion. If you have several plants, by keeping them 
 in separate places where there are different degrees 
 of heat — placing them in a moderately cool position 
 to retard growth, and moving to a warmer one when 
 
Reinwardtia 
 
 you are ready for them, thus prolonging the bloom- 
 ing period — you can secure a succession. 
 
 Plumbago Rosea is a good winter-flowering plant, 
 with rose-colored flowers growing in long terminal 
 spikes. It blooms in July, and needs more heat than 
 Capensis; it is a stove perennial, and comes from the 
 East Indies. 
 
 Plumbago Coccinea is a very fine one, with much 
 larger and more highly colored flowers. 
 
 Plumbago Larpentae (Lady Larpent's) is a hardy 
 perennial, with close heads of violet bloom. 
 
 Plumbago Scandens, Toothwort, is a white-flowered 
 variety. 
 
 I cannot answer for the behavior of any of them in 
 the house, excepting Capensis. Most of them, how- 
 ever, thrive in the garden. A good loam, sand, and 
 a little peat, suit them best. They should be rested 
 at some time during the winter, by being kept rather 
 dry. 
 
 They are readily propagated by rooted shoots taken 
 from the bases of the plants. 
 
 REINWARDTIA 
 
 This is a winter-flowering greenhouse shrub, gen- 
 erally known as Linum Trigynum. Named after 
 K. G. K. Reinwardt, who was director of the Botanic 
 Garden at Leyden. They are members of the Flax 
 family, but form a very small genus. 
 
 The best ones, in ni}^ opinion, are: 
 
 Reinwardtia Trigynum and 
 Reinwardtia Tetragynum 
 
 Though very ornamental, Reinwardtias are but 
 seldom seen ; and this appears strange when we re- 
 
74 Salvia 
 
 member how few good winter-blooming- plants there 
 are. I consider them a decided acquisition, with 
 their bright yellow flowers, which, during the dullest 
 months of the year, cover the plants in the utmost 
 profusion. 
 
 Old stock can be cut back and will make fresh 
 growth; but new plants, raised each year from cut- 
 tings, give better satisfaction. Cuttings from wood 
 that is quite firm, without being too hard, planted in 
 a shady place under a hand glass, soon take root; 
 and when strong enough they can be potted and 
 grown on for winter use. 
 
 While they are young, pinch them freely, to cause 
 a compact growth, and make a full head. Let them 
 have plenty of sun and outdoor air, as late as possible 
 in the fall, to ripen the new shoots and prepare them 
 for later blooming. They will need about fifty-five 
 degrees of heat to develop their flowers. Keep them 
 from damping off, after fires are started. 
 
 Their bright coloring, prolonged blooming, prod- 
 igality of flowers, and easiness of cultivation, make 
 them very desirable and attractive for the house. 
 
 They are not exacting as to soil, but it should be 
 at least good. Water them carefully, and syringe 
 the tops frequently, or the Red vSpider, that fell 
 destroyer to which the plant is subject, will soon end 
 their existence. In spite of this drawback, I should 
 say by all means try a few plants, and exercise a 
 little care to preserve them. Success will repay 
 you. 
 
 SALVIA 
 
 Sage belongs to an exceedingly large genus of 
 nearly five hundred species, thriving in the warm or 
 temperate portions of the earth. These plants are 
 
Salvia. 75 
 
 greenhouse, hardy or half hardy, annual, biennial, 
 or perennial herbs or shrubs, generally with showy 
 flowers, of various colors. As you will probably 
 not care to keep the whole family, I shall describe 
 only those which I consider the most desirable, and 
 endeavor to suggest how to provide for them. 
 
 Salvia Officinalis is the hardy common garden Sage, 
 so much used in cooking. 
 
 Salvia Patens is a handsome half hardy perennial, 
 with deep blue flowers of good size, blooming in the 
 fall ; and, if grown in pots, it can be forced to con- 
 tinue the flowering season in the house. 
 
 Salvia Patens Alba is a white variety of the same 
 type. 
 
 The following are two of the best: 
 
 Salvia Splendens, and its variety 
 
 Salvia Splendens Bruantii, which is of a more dwarf 
 habit, and a fine garden species. 
 
 All Salvias like rich soil, and plenty of root room ; 
 they are easily raised from seed ; and cuttings of the 
 young wood, in a growing state, root readily. Equal 
 parts of loam and manure will not be too rich for 
 them, if grown in pots. In the ground, in summer, 
 they will thrive almost anywhere, but should have 
 a sunny situation. 
 
 They make good house plants, if properly pre- 
 pared, and cared for. By daily immersion in water, 
 or copious showering where convenient, they may 
 be kept free from the Red Spider, which if not 
 guarded against will soon destroy them. When it 
 is necessary to take them in for the winter, you must 
 have young plants, ones that have not yet com- 
 menced, or are just beginning to bloom. These are 
 
76 Violets 
 
 obtained from cuttings rooted in August; or, you 
 can get young plants from the lower part of your 
 old ones, with enough root of the parent plant at- 
 tached, to grow right on as soon as potted. 
 
 The young progeny will soon make good-sized 
 specimens, which, when you have to take them in — 
 probably early in November, as they must not be 
 touched by frost — will be just getting ready to 
 bloom. 
 
 Cut the flowers as soon as they fade, and new 
 branches will shoot out, to bloom in their turn. 
 
 Feed Salvias with manure water, and you will 
 have flowers for a long time. 
 
 VIOLETS 
 
 Violae. A very large genus, most of them being 
 hardy perennials, and low-growing plants, rarely 
 reaching a height of more than five or six inches. 
 
 Viola Odorata, varieties of which generally are seen 
 in gardens and windows, is a great favorite with 
 almost every one, especially during winter and early 
 spring. Like Pansies, and Daisies, Violets can be 
 used to fill boxes or pots for the house, or be grown 
 in a cold frame outside. 
 
 If wanted for a window, fill with rich soil, late in 
 September, a well drained box, six inches deep by 
 six inches wide, and as long as the window. Put in 
 your plants, about six inches apart ; keep them out- 
 side as late as possible; and, when brought in, give 
 them a cool sunny situation with plenty of air, and 
 plenty of water. 
 
 Frequent showerings will subdue the Red Spider, 
 their deadly foe. If you have much dry heat these 
 pests soon become rampant. 
 
Violets 
 
 77 
 
 English Violets, which are very hardy, do well out- 
 side. To protect the roots, I cover mine in the fall 
 with a heavy mulch of coarse manure and leaves, 
 
 but not with enoug-h to smother or overheat the 
 crowns. When the covering is lifted in early spring-, 
 I generally find the plants full of buds, which come 
 into bloom with the first warm spell. I use these 
 Violets for bordering certain beds, and have been 
 
78 Violets 
 
 greatly pleased with the effect. They are kept 
 within bounds by cutting off the runners. The hose 
 is turned on them every afternoon when the sun has 
 left the bed; manure water, also, is given while 
 they are blooming. 
 
 In this extensive family are a number of favorites 
 which have long reigned supreme, such as: 
 
 Marie Louise Violets 
 Neapolitan Violets 
 Russian Violets 
 
 Some of the members are delicately constituted, 
 and more liable to disease than their hardier and 
 more rugged relatives. 
 
CHAPTER V 
 
 KOIvIAQE PLANTS 
 
 AchyrantJies 
 Alocasia 
 AlternantJiera 
 Aspidistra 
 
 Begonia 
 Browallia 
 Caladiiims 
 C annas 
 Coleus 
 
 DieffenbacJi ia 
 Draccena 
 
 Farfnginni Grande 
 Mar ant a 
 
 ACHYRANTHES 
 
 HIS makes a good color effect, and does 
 very well inside. It is of no especial 
 value for window gardening-, but may be 
 useful to those who cannot procure more 
 expensive plants. A well grown specimen looks 
 remarkably bright surrounded by a mass of green, 
 or even alone. 
 
 Achyranthes needs watching to keep down the 
 Red Spider. It may be treated as suggested for 
 Ageratums — that is, given a plunge bath — unless 
 5"ou have means of fumigating with tobacco. 
 
 Prepare new plants in August, from your old 
 stock, that they may be strong and vigorous for the 
 winter; or, if you use the old ones, cut them back, 
 to produce a fresh, young head, which will be 
 stronger than the old growth. 
 
 They are tender, and must be protected from frost. 
 
 Achyrantheses like a generous soil, and very little 
 
 water in winter. They should be kept in about 
 
80 
 
 Alocasia 
 
 fifty-five degrees of heat, a sunny window suiting 
 them perfectly. Be careful that they do not freeze 
 on cold nights. 
 
 Some of these plants are quite beautiful, and, by 
 trimming, may be trained to grow in any. desired 
 shape. They are readily propagated by cuttings. 
 
 ALOCASIA 
 
 Handsome stove plants, closely allied to Colocasia, 
 and requiring treatment similar to that of Caladiums. 
 
 Their beautifully variega- 
 ted leaves make them fine 
 subjects for decorative 
 purposes. 
 
 They like a moist atmos- 
 phere; but I have found 
 that to a certain extent 
 they can be trained to do 
 without it. By growing 
 them out-of-doors, in a 
 shady position, from June 
 to September — turning the 
 hose on them daily, and 
 never allowing them to get 
 thoroughly dry — they will become sufficiently hard- 
 ened to continue their growth, in some moder- 
 ately cool window, without disaster. 
 
 They need a soil of peat, with a little light loam, 
 a good quantity of sphagnum, lumps of charcoal and 
 plenty of silver sand, all mixed together. 
 
 In planting, keep the bulbs well up in the pot, 
 pressing the mixture around to raise them a little in 
 the centre of the pot, and fill out all around to the 
 
Alocasia 81 
 
 edge with sphagnum. This will induce them to 
 throw out new rootlets. 
 
 Fill your pots more than half full of bits of broken 
 crocks, to insure g-ood drainage, and water liberally 
 when the plants are in active growth. Also give 
 them manure water once or twice a week. In sum- 
 mer do not let a strong sun strike them. During 
 the winter they will thrive in a temperature of from 
 sixty to seventy-five degrees, but not lower: they 
 must not be allowed to suffer from cold. 
 
 Alocasias, with their immense leaves, extending 
 in some well grown varieties to a length of from 
 twenty to thirty inches, with their beautiful shad- 
 ings and markings, are a noble sight, glorious reve- 
 lations of the power of the Creator. 
 
 Many people consider them tropical stove plants, 
 which will not live outside of a greenhouse. With 
 proper care, however, they will do as well as ordi- 
 nary Cannas in dwellings. 
 
 All Alocasias are so interesting that one scarcely 
 knows which to select for description. 
 
 Alocasia Hacrorhiza Variegata is long-rooted, as its 
 name implies, and a strong grower; it has large 
 bright green leaves, spotted and marbled with white. 
 The footstalks, also, are broadly streaked with 
 white. 
 
 Alocasia fletallica has leaves of a magnificent bronze 
 color on the face, purple on the back; it is an excel- 
 lent variety for decoration. 
 
 Alocasia Sedeni is a hybrid with oval bronzy-green 
 leaves, which are purple on the underside, and have 
 pure white veins. 
 
 Alocasia Thibautiana, from Borneo, is the hand- 
 
82 Alternanttiera. 
 
 somest member of the family, with leaves of deep 
 olive grayish green, a grayish white midrib, and 
 many gray veinlets running out from it. This is 
 one of the most expensive varieties. 
 
 Alocasia Zebrina has dark green erect leaves on 
 strong footstalks of pale green, striped with bands 
 of darker green. This species comes from the 
 Philippine Islands. It will grow to a considerable 
 size, often measuring more than four feet in height. 
 
 ALTERNANTHERA 
 
 Half hardy plants, valuable for color effect only, 
 but in that respect very serviceable. A well grown 
 plant looks brilliant when surrounded by green. 
 They are similar to Achyranthes in their habits and 
 requirements. 
 
 Start young plants in August. Shift from one pot 
 to another as they fill with roots, keeping the plants 
 all the while pinched, or trimmed, to make them 
 strong and form a neat head. 
 
 Let your potting soil for these plants be rich and 
 sandy. Give them all the sun and heat possible, but 
 do not drench with water, as they are soft-wooded. 
 Judge from the soil when to water them. If it be- 
 gins to look dry on top, and crumbles in your fingers, 
 it is a good sign that they would like a shower. But 
 see that water does not stand in the saucer. 
 
 If insects annoy you, give the tops of the plants 
 a plunge bath. 
 
 Alternantheras will not have a good color unless 
 they have the full benefit of the sun, plenty of light. 
 
 Alternanthera Amabilis Tricolor is a good variety. 
 Its leaves are dark green on the edges, with a deep 
 
Aspidistra. 
 
 83 
 
 rose centre marked with purple veins, and a band 
 of orange between centre and margin. This, with 
 several other species, came from Brazil. 
 
 Alternanthera Paronychioides is an orange-red, shaded 
 with olive. A compact grower. 
 
 Alternanthera Paronychioides Magnifica, is of a much 
 brighter color than others of this type. 
 
 Alternanthera Paronychioides flajor, which has bronze 
 leaves with deep orange tips, 
 is a very effective member of 
 the family. 
 
 Alternanthera Paronychioides 
 najor Aurea is a bright yellow, 
 and holds its color well through- 
 out all seasons. 
 
 Alternanthera Versicolor has 
 
 pink, crimson and bronzy-green 
 leaves. It is a good compact 
 grower, and develops into a 
 fine plant; but judicious trim- 
 ming is essential, to keep it shapely and make 
 it branch out freely. 
 
 ASPIDISTRA 
 
 There are few plants that will stand so much 
 neglect, and continue growing cheerfully, as if re- 
 ceiving every attention. Nearly hardy and ever- 
 green, they brighten many situations where more 
 tender plants would perish. Forme they do so well, 
 and multiply so rapidly, that I am often at a loss 
 how to dispose of them. They thrive in almost any 
 garden soil, but do still better in rich loam, leaf soil 
 and sand 
 
 ASPIDISTRA. 
 
84 Begonia 
 
 Being great lovers of water, they must not be 
 stinted, though, as with all others, I moderate the 
 supply in winter. Not needing much sun, they 
 thpive perfectly in shady places, and may be in- 
 creased from suckers. 
 
 The following are excellent varieties, and will 
 give satisfaction : 
 
 Aspidistra Elatior* from Japan, which grows from 
 one to two feet in height. 
 
 Aspidistra Elatior Variegata, with green and white 
 striped leaves. 
 
 Aspidistra Lurida is also very effective in outdoor 
 gardening. 
 
 BEGONIA 
 
 Of all the lovely plants we have, I think there are 
 none more satisfactory than the Begonias, if one 
 knows how to take care of them. They should be 
 allowed to grow all they will out-of-doors, and b6 
 well hardened when taken in. I keep them in pots 
 sunken where they get only the morning sun, put- 
 ting a mulch of manure on top of the pots, to pre- 
 vent drying out from heat. 
 
 Give plenty of water, both overhead and at the 
 roots. In the fall, when they are strong and vigor- 
 ous, I lift them; wash off the pot; set in a window 
 where they do not get too much sun; and give out- 
 door air on mild days. They go right on growing, 
 but do not want so much water now. If they should 
 begin to drop their leaves, stop watering for awhile; 
 only do not let them dry up 
 
 The tuberous Begonias may be treated in the same 
 manner; unless you prefer to dry off the bulbs, and 
 
86 Browallia 
 
 put them away in dry sand for another .season. But 
 be sure that it is dry, or they will rot. 
 
 From my own experiments, I know that the fol- 
 lowing will all thrive in the house: 
 
 Begonia Rubra 
 
 Begonia Alba 
 
 Begonia Vernon 
 
 Begonia Metallica 
 
 Begonia flaculata 
 
 They are gross feeders, and very fond of manure 
 water. 
 
 Rex varieties have not proven very satisfactory 
 under my care, though I have made numerous at- 
 tempts to keep them; but the shrubby species do 
 nicely. 
 
 BROWALLIA 
 
 A genus of handsome shrubs, which bloom during 
 the winter and spring months, making good pot 
 plants for sitting-rooms. 
 
 They need a rich, sandy, porous soil, and quanti- 
 ties of weak manure water as soon as flower buds 
 appear. 
 
 To make them dwarfed and bushy, they must be 
 stopped or pinched back three or four times during 
 the summer. They should be taken in before it 
 grows cold enough to chill them. 
 
 Syringe daily to prevent the attack of insects. 
 
 These plants are greenhouse annuals ; they must 
 not be put outside in spring until the weather is 
 settled, possibly not until June. 
 
 The flowers are blue, or white, except in 
 
 Browallia Jamesonii (Jameson's), where they are of 
 a peculiar orange. This variety is a synonym of 
 
Caladiuirns 87 
 
 Streptosolen Jamesonii. It makes a good basket 
 plant, if allowed to wander at its own sweet will. 
 
 Browallia Elata, from Peru, is a tall variety, grow- 
 ing to about a foot and a half in height; it has deep 
 blue flowers. 
 
 Browallia Qrandiflora is a large-flowered species, 
 from one to three feet high. 
 
 Browallia Roezli, a very pretty member of the family, 
 has light blue, or white flowers, with a yellow tube ; 
 it makes a dense bush, from one to two feet high. 
 
 All the above are prolific bloomers, and valuable 
 on account of their color, blue being so rare among 
 blooming plants. 
 
 CALADIUMS 
 
 Fancy Caladiums, as they are called, are stove 
 perennials; yet, under certain conditions, they may 
 be kept in the house. Like Alocasias and Colocasias, 
 they are cultivated for the marvellous coloring and 
 great beauty of their leaves. 
 
 They grow from tubers, and have to be dried off, 
 and well rested. In February they may be started 
 in small, well-drained pots. These should be filled 
 with a compost of good loam, leaf mould, peat, and 
 a little thoroughly decomposed manure, in equal 
 quantities, with a liberal portion of sharp sand — all 
 to be well mixed together, but not broken up too 
 finely. 
 
 Put your plants in a warm place, and water spar- 
 ingly, just enough to keep them moist. After the 
 leaves unfold you can give more water. When your 
 pots are full of roots, shift to ones of larger size; and 
 give manure water two or three times a week, hav- 
 ing first used clear water. 
 
88 
 
 Caladiuims 
 
 Caladiums need to be shaded, during the middle 
 of the day, from the sun's full strength. But for the 
 remainder of the time, they should have all the light 
 possible: it increases the beauty and richness of their 
 foliage. After they have reached a good size, they 
 may be moved to a cooler room, and given water 
 
 FANCY LEAVED CALADIUMS 
 
 when absolutely necessary, but not otherwise. You 
 must not let cold draughts strike them. 
 
 When the leaves begin to fade and drop off, give 
 less and less water, until they are all dead. Then 
 stow the pots away where they will not suffer from 
 extreme cold. Keep them a little moist, in order 
 that the tubers may not dry up ; they are apt to rot 
 
Carina.^ 89 
 
 if they do. In this manner you can preserve the 
 plants until the time comes to start for another sea- 
 son's growth. Caladiiims cannot live in a tempera- 
 ture lower than fifty- five or sixty degrees Fahren- 
 heit. They may be shaken out of the pots, and stored 
 in dry sand, if this is more convenient. 
 
 Caladium riaculatum, from South America, is a fine 
 variety, prettily spotted with white. 
 
 The following are all beautiful: 
 
 Caladium Chantinii 
 
 Caladium Leopold! 
 
 Caladium Marmoratum 
 
 Caladium Bicolor 
 
 Caladium Verschaffeltii 
 
 There are so many lovely hybrids of this family 
 that it is not difficult to make a gratifying selection. 
 
 Caladium Esculentum will be referred to under 
 Colocasia, as it is synonymous with Colocasia Escu- 
 lenta. 
 
 CANNAS 
 
 The improved varieties of Cannas are much 
 liked and widely grown. A new race and far superior 
 to their progenitors, excellent for bedding; the 
 dwarfer varieties can be grown in pots, and in the 
 house, where they will continue blooming most of 
 the time. They commence to bloom when quite 
 small, and the coloring of some of them is very bril- 
 liant. 
 
 They like a rich soil, which can hardly be too rich, 
 with quantities of water at all times. Equal parts of 
 well rotted manure, loam, and sand to make it porous, 
 in from eight to twelve-inch pots, with liberal sup- 
 plies of manure water, combined with the warmth 
 
90 
 
 C a. iT^ n a s 
 
 and light of a sunny window, should produce a 
 bountiful return of flowers, and foliage that will 
 make a charming tropical effect. Outside, simply 
 let them grow in the ground. Dig them up in the 
 
 fall; dry the bulbs thoroughly; pack them away 
 where they will neither freeze nor dry up; and divide 
 and repot them in the spring. 
 
 Generally speaking, I think the Dwarf varieties are 
 more satisfactory, if not the only kind worth growing ; 
 
ColetAS 91 
 
 although, for the centre of tropical beds, the tall 
 Cannas are useful. A disadvantage of the latter is that, 
 being so tall, they are easily broken and disfigured 
 by strong winds; while the Dwarfs, seldom reaching 
 a height of more than two or three feet, are more 
 manageable. 
 
 These Dwarfs make fine beds. Planted out during 
 the last part of May, or the first of June, and given 
 a rich soil, they will bloom until late fall. They 
 revel in manure water, and enjoy any quantity of 
 fresh water, for which they should never be allowed 
 to suffer. They will do well almost anywhere. 
 
 Their colors have been greatly improved of late, 
 as well as their size, by hybridization. This is seen in 
 varieties such as 
 
 Madame Crozy, crimson, with gold edging. 
 
 Eldorado, yellow. 
 
 Chas. Henderson, deep crimson. 
 
 Hybridizers, however, are persistently working to 
 produce still better specimens, and greater diversity 
 of color ; so that no one can predict what treasures 
 the future may have in store for us, in shades of 
 crimson, yellow, pink, and possibly even pure white. 
 
 COLEUS 
 
 These plants will thrive almost anywhere outside, 
 though they have a preference for good soil, a light 
 sunny situation, and a sufficiency of water; they are 
 apt to drop their lower leaves if kept too dry for a 
 length of time. 
 
 It is best to take cuttings in August, when they 
 will root readily, and grow them for winter use ; they 
 will be more vigorous than old plants. Keep them in 
 
92 
 
 Coletis 
 
 pots of well drained, rich, friable loam ; shift to 
 larger pots as the first ones become filled with roots; 
 this will make them strong healthy plants, of good 
 shape and growth, before they are taken into the 
 house. 
 
 They can be trained into any form you desire. By 
 
 pinching the terminal shoot mercilessly, and thus 
 forcing it to throw out collaterals, you will bring the 
 plant to suit your individual taste. 
 
 Be sure to take Coleuses in before the slightest 
 frost touches them, as they are very tender. Give 
 them the warmest, sunniest window you have, and 
 water very sparingly; they will drop all their leaves 
 and gradually die if they get too much water at this 
 
Dieffenbachiia 93 
 
 time, not being able to take care of it in dull cold 
 weather. Should they be near a window, see that 
 chilling or frosty winds do not work in around the 
 frames. If properly taken care of, they will grow 
 all winter, and can be cut up in the spring into slips 
 to make fresh plants. 
 
 There are many varieties, all more or less beauti- 
 ful, with which most of us are familiar. I shall men- 
 tion only two: 
 
 Coleus Verschaffeltii is one of the most effective of 
 the crimson-leaved species. 
 
 Golden Bedder is a good mate for it, in clear yellow. 
 
 DIEFFENBACHIA 
 
 Named in honor of Dr. Dieffenbach, a German 
 botanist. A genus of magnificent evergreen stove 
 perennials. Some of them have beautifully varie- 
 gated leaves, irregularly marked with white or yel- 
 lowish oblong spots. They have fleshy stems, which 
 if broken will exude an acrid juice that is very poi- 
 sonous: consequently no part of the plant must ever 
 find its way into the mouth. 
 
 They are all handsome, and so numerous that it is 
 difficult to choose amongst them ; but I may suggest 
 a few: 
 
 Dieffenbachia Baraquiniana(Baraquin's), from Brazil; 
 light green with white spots. 
 
 Dieffenbachia Leopold! (Leopold's), deep green; mid- 
 rib white, with a whitish band on each side. A very 
 handsome variety. 
 
 Two other beauties are: 
 
 Dieffenbachia Regina, and 
 
 Dieffenbachia Rex 
 
94 Dracaena 
 
 The following are all grand plants: 
 
 Dieffenbachia Nobilis 
 
 Dieffenbachia Splendens 
 
 Dieffenbachia Triumphans 
 
 Dieffenbachia flajestica 
 
 Dieffenbachia Magnifica 
 
 Dieffenbachia Bausei (Bause's), is of a yellowish 
 green, blotched with dark green, and thickly spotted 
 with white ; it is a garden hybrid. 
 
 Dieffenbachias need the same treatment as Calad- 
 iums. They should be kept where the temperature 
 will be not lower than sixty degrees at night, and 
 much higher during the day. Their leaves must be 
 sprayed or sponged off once or twice a day, to supply 
 the humidity which they require, and will miss out- 
 side of a greenhouse. 
 
 Give them turfy loam, peat, leaf mould, a small 
 quantity of well rotted manure, and some good sharp 
 sand, all thoroughly mixed together; and perfect 
 drainage. They need an abundance of water, but it 
 must not stand to sour the soil. Be careful not to 
 give too much water before the leaves begin to ex- 
 pand; afterwards never allow them to be stinted. 
 Also see that they are not exposed to currents of 
 cold air. 
 
 When the pots are full of roots, give clear manure 
 water once a week. Keep your plants very warm ; 
 and make the air humid in some way, if you have to 
 place bowls of water amongst them. 
 
 Do not expose Dieffenbachias to too strong a sun ; 
 they enjoy a little morning sun, and plenty of light. 
 
 DRACyENA 
 
 This plant is often confused with Cordyline, the 
 two genera having become very much mixed to those 
 
Dracaena 
 
 95 
 
 uninitiated in the mysteries of floriculture. Dra- 
 caenae are beautiful for color effect. They form a 
 large genus of stove plants; but there are some which 
 with proper attention will do well in our dwellings. 
 A compost of loam and lumpy peat, in equal quan- 
 
 tities, with a little charcoal, placed in a pot of 
 moderate size, will suit them. In summer, when they 
 are growing fast out-of-doors, give plent}" of syring- 
 ing, and water the roots. But be careful in winter ; 
 for if any water lodges in the axils of the leaves, it 
 will spoil, if not kill your plants. Wipe dust off with 
 a wet sponge; give plenty of light, to bring out the 
 
06 I^arfiagiunTi Grande 
 
 color of their leaves; and keep them in as moist an 
 atmosphere as possible. If the leaves begin to fall, 
 withhold water for a while — unless yoii have been 
 keeping the plants too dry : in that case it will be a 
 sign that they need more. 
 
 A little judgment, combined with experience, if 
 you really desire knowledge on the subject, will soon 
 teach you the requirements of each individual plant. 
 When you lose one through ignorance of its needs, 
 and later find out the cause, you must store up the 
 information for future use. If you do not, and sim- 
 ply let it slip away, you may be in the same predica- 
 ment again ; for what is life to one plant may mean 
 death to another, as each has its special require- 
 ments, and must have them satisfied in order to 
 thrive. 
 
 Dracaenae are all pretty; but those with recurved 
 leaves are, I think, the best for house culture. There 
 are many popular varieties of them originated from 
 Cordyline Terminalis. 
 
 FARFUGIUM GRANDE 
 
 A useful little plant, with fleshy stems, and large 
 shining leaves spotted with yellow; it comes of a 
 genus of hardy herbaceous perennials, classed by 
 Bentham and Hooker under Senecio. Another title 
 is, Ligularia Ksempferi Aureo Maculata (Kaempfer's 
 Gold-Spotted). 
 
 Despite all these names Farfugiums will thrive in 
 any good porous loam, but like best a peaty soil. 
 While not requiring much sun, they must not be al- 
 lowed to suffer for want of water, as they need 
 moisture at all times. Should they die down in win- 
 
M: a rant a 97 
 
 ter, put them away, and they will come out again in 
 the spring-. 
 
 Farfugiums are not remarkably beautiful, but have 
 a pleasing appearance; and any plant that will thrive 
 in the house is desirable. They can be increased by 
 division of the roots in either autumn or spring. 
 
 MARANTA 
 
 Named after B. Maranti, a Venetian botanist. 
 Several of the species supply us with Arrowroot, 
 
 which is extracted from their tubers. They are fine 
 foliage plants, having beautifully marked leaves, and 
 are not difficult to grow. Marantas like a more moist 
 atmosphere than is usually found in our dwellings ; 
 yet with proper attention they will thrive. 
 
 Their first requirement is a rich soil. Leaf mould, 
 sand, and turfy loam will furnish this. They need 
 an abundance of heat and water when growing, to- 
 
98 Nlaranta. 
 
 gether with moist air: if the latter is not obtainable, 
 they can be taught to do without it. 
 
 Sink them outside in some shady place in summer; 
 and shower them daily, giving- copious supplies of 
 water. They should make a good growth by autumn, 
 forming fine heads, or crowns of leaves. 
 
 Take Marantas in before it is cold enough to chill 
 them ; keep them in a warm place ; and do not give 
 too much water. Let them be rather dry than too 
 wet. Sprinkling or spraying their leaves will help 
 them. But if they continue active growth they must 
 not be stinted at all. 
 
 Good drainage is an absolute necessity ; for, while 
 they require an abundant supply of water, a sour soil, 
 or stagnant water, is decidedly injurious. They do 
 not enjoy strong sunshine, but on the contrary dis- 
 like it very much : therefore they should have a shady 
 location where they will get only the early morning 
 sun. 
 
 To have the leaves in good condition, there should 
 be plenty of moisture in the atmosphere : so, if your 
 house is heated with dry hot air, and you have no 
 way of counteracting this, your only resource will be 
 spraying, or frequent sponging. While, under proper 
 conditions, these plants are not subject to insects, 
 dry hot air often engenders Red Spider; and, when 
 these invisible enemies begin operations, they will 
 soon make havoc with your handsomest plants by 
 rapidly disfiguring or destroying the leaves. 
 
 Marantas are often confounded with Calathea, also 
 a genus of fine foliage plants, to which they are nearly 
 allied. 
 
 riaranta Zebrina, Zebra Plant, is generally so cata- 
 logued, though in fact it is a Calathea; but to either 
 
NIaranta 
 
 genus it is a fine addition, being- exceedingly hand- 
 some with its velvety light green leaves, barred 
 across with bands of rich dark purplish green, while 
 the undersides also have a decided purplish hue. 
 
 The following are all good : 
 
 Maranta Bicolor 
 
 riaranta Concinna, a dwarf perennial, 
 
 Maranta Nitens, a handsome species, 
 
 riaranta Sagoriana, another dwarf perennial. 
 
 Among their relatives, the Calatheas, there are 
 so many to claim our admiration that it is difficult to 
 select; but probably the prize should be awarded to 
 these: 
 
 Calathea Princeps 
 
 Calathea Tublspatha 
 
 Calathea Veitchii 
 
CHAPTER VI 
 
 LILIES 
 
 Agapanthus 
 Anthericuvt 
 Crijium 
 
 I ma n tophyllu m 
 
 Liliiivi 
 
 Lily of the Valley 
 
 AGAPANTHUS 
 
 gapanthus Umbellatus. These Afri- 
 can Lilies are easily cared for. 
 They thrive best in strong tnrfy 
 loam, leaf mould, well rotted 
 manure and river sand. Durine 
 summer they can hardly get too 
 much water. Give them clear 
 manure water when blooming. 
 After they have finished flowering, gradually lessen 
 the quantity, and let them rest awhile; but as soon 
 as they show signs of activity, give them more. 
 
 Do not allow too much pot room, or change them 
 too often, as they will not bloom until pot-bound. 
 They may be divided in early spring, and every off- 
 set will make a new plant; or they may be permitted 
 to grow on until they burst their bounds. The 
 flowers are a bright blue, forming a large cluster, or 
 umbel, at the top of a tall naked scape. This plant 
 blooms for many weeks. 
 
 Agapanthus Umbellatus Albidus, a pure white variety 
 from the Cape of Good Hope, is very showy. It must 
 be carefully dried off during the winter. 
 
AnthiericuriTL 101 
 
 Agapanthus Umbellatus Flore=pleno has double flow- 
 ers; it keeps better than the single types. 
 
 Agapanthus Umbellatus naximus has immense um- 
 bels of bright blue flowers ; it is a grand plant when 
 well grown. There is an equally large white-flowered 
 specimen of this variety, which is very desirable. 
 
 Agapanthus Umbellatus Mooreanus is of a dwarf 
 habit, dark blue, and very hardy. 
 
 AGAPANTHUS 
 
 There are other species; but among thos^ here 
 mentioned you should find what will please yov^. 
 
 ANTHERICUM 
 
 Synonymous with Phalangium. A numerous genus 
 of the order Liliacese. It comes mostly from the 
 Cape of Good Hope. The hardy species are largely 
 used as ornamental plants, both outside and potted 
 in the house, where they do remarkably well. 
 
 Anthericum needs pots of rich soil composed of 
 
102 CrinvitT^ 
 
 fibrous loam, leaf mould, well decayed manure and 
 coarse sand. When growing actively, and until it 
 has finished flowering, it must have plenty of water. 
 Then give less, but never allow your plants to get 
 entirely dry. They easily may be increased by sim- 
 ply dividing the roots. 
 
 The following are all good: 
 Anthericum Liliago (St. Bernard's Lily), 
 Anthericum Uliastrum (vSt. Bruno's Lily), a much 
 larger and fragrant variety. 
 
 Anthericum Variegatum, which is half hardy. It 
 comes from South Africa. Its proper botanical name 
 is Chlorophytum Elatum Variegatum. 
 
 CRINUM 
 
 Crinums, from Krinon^ the Greek name for Lily, 
 are a large genus of exceedingly beautiful flowering 
 bulbs, closely related to the Amaryllis family. Most 
 of the species are nearly evergreen, and continue 
 growing without much drying off. They are not ex- 
 acting as to soil, but thrive in sandy loam and leaf 
 mould, with ample drainage. They should be covered 
 to the neck in planting; and the pots should be large 
 enough to accommodate their mass of thick, fleshy 
 roots. They must be kept clean by frequent syring- 
 ing; and be given plenty of water at the roots, with 
 doses of manure water, particularly when blooming. 
 
 It will not be necessary to repot these plants every 
 season, if a sufficiency of water is given, and a top 
 dressing of rich soil in the spring, when they start 
 into new growth. While resting in winter they should 
 be fully exposed to the sun. They may be planted out- 
 side in summer, taken up in the fall, and stored, if you 
 
Crinuim 103 
 
 do not care to have them grow on through the winter. 
 
 All Crinums are lovely, but perhaps the most mag- 
 nificent one is 
 
 Crinum Kirkii, or Crinum Nobile, as it is variously 
 termed by different florists. Under proper care the 
 bulb attains an enormous size; and from it there 
 shoots lip a tall spike, crowned with an umbel of ten 
 or fifteen large white fragrant flowers, with a reddish 
 purple stripe on the outside of each petal. This 
 beautiful variety comes from Zanzibar. 
 
 Crinum Fimbriatum, the Milk and Wine Lily of Nas- 
 sau, is also a very good one, and deliciously fragrant. 
 Its flowers are white with a claret-colored stripe 
 throi^gh the centre of each petal; the foliage is erect 
 and sworJ-shaped. 
 
 Crinum Americanum, a native of this country, of 
 great merit, has pure white flowers. 
 
 As Crinums grow naturally in wet places, they re- 
 quire an abundance of water ; and being evergreen, 
 they may be kept growing all through the year. If 
 they are in pots, it is best not to move them until 
 they are l)ursting their bounds. Do not mix manure 
 i 1 your potting soil, but give manure water when the 
 plants are growing freely. I plunge mine outside in 
 the borders of beds or walks, and water them liber- 
 ally every day, giving less and less as autumn ap- 
 proaches, to rest them for their winter's work. 
 
 Be sure to take Crinums in before there is any 
 frost; and continue to keep them rather dry until 
 your house is closed and fires are started. Then put 
 them ill a warm location where they will get all the 
 sun possible, and begin to water them freely once 
 more. At no time must they ever get dry enough to 
 make the leaves flag. Do not plant them too deeply, 
 
104 Imantoplnylliam 
 
 or you may lose 3^our bloom: not more than half oi 
 the bulb should be covered, the long- neck not to be 
 taken into account. 
 
 Protect Crinums from the sun in summer. 
 
 IMANTOPHYLLUM 
 
 Imantophyllum Miniatum does well in the house in 
 properly drained pots of loam, with leaf mould and 
 charcoal added. A little bone dust mixed in, bene- 
 
 IMANTOPHYLLUM MINIATUM 
 
 fits them sometimes. I have found that these plants 
 never flower until pot-bound, that is, until the pot 
 becomes full of roots. When in active growth I give 
 mine doses of weak manure water. In summer any 
 amount of water may be given to both leaves and 
 roots. 
 
 In winter they require much less. Allow them to 
 rest awhile; and in January or February they will 
 begin to grow, and soon throw up a tall scape having 
 a large umbel of lovely shaded orange and yellow 
 flowers. It is better to give them a good top dress- 
 
Lilium 105 
 
 ing in the spring, as they do not like having their 
 roots disturbed. 
 
 I cannot conceive of any plant that is less trouble, 
 or will give more satisfaction than Imantophyllums. 
 They have long narrow leathery leaves, which I have 
 never known to be attacked by any insect ; and, if 
 kept cool, they hold their bloom a long time. A 
 temperature of fifty or sixty degrees Fahrenheit will 
 suit them admirably. 
 
 They have fleshy roots, which become so thickly 
 matted that it is difficult to separate them. They 
 are increased by offsets, or by division of the roots. 
 Never allow them to seed, as it weakens them to do 
 so ; and keep them in the same pot as long as possible. 
 Plunge Imantophyllums in a partially shaded position 
 outside in spring, and leave them there until just 
 before frost. 
 
 LILIUM 
 
 We are all familiar with Lilies, and have long real- 
 ized how beautiful they are either for outdoor culti- 
 vation, or to bring inside. Their stately habit, rich 
 perfume, and lovely flowers, so noble in the purity of 
 their appearance, have won for them many friends, 
 and rendered their presence almost indispensable. 
 They are generally hardy, and will thrive and multi- 
 ply in well drained beds or favorable spots outside if 
 given protection in winter. They can be grown in 
 pots, and are greatly appreciated, especially about 
 Easter, for which season they seem peculiarly appro- 
 priate. 
 
 Lilies like a moderately rich soil, with sand enough 
 to admit of water passing through it readily. Keep 
 them cool until they are about to bloom ; then bring 
 them into your sitting-room and install them in a 
 
106 IviliiJ.m 
 
 light sunny window. Syringe the leaves daily, to 
 keep off Aphis; give sufificient water to the roots; 
 and you should have an abundance of flowers. See 
 that the bulbs are well covered. Liquid manure will 
 benefit them during the flowering stage, but do not 
 give it before that time. 
 
 When they have finished blooming, put them away 
 to rest in the open air, if it is warm enough, and 
 withhold water until they begin to grow again. 
 
 Lilium Auratum, Golden-rayed Lily of Japan, is one 
 of the most beautiful varieties, and a good summer 
 bloomer. 
 
 Lilium Candidum. a very handsome species, does 
 best when well established, and not disturbed at the 
 roots. It will prosper for years, increasing all the 
 while in strength and vigor. 
 
 Lilium Harrisii, Bermuda Easter Lily, is more tender 
 and cannot safely be left out-of-doors in winter in 
 this latitude. But it will thrive in the house. 
 
 The following are all lovely and excellent varieties : 
 
 Lilium Bulbiferum 
 
 Lilium Longiflorum, White Trumpet Lily, 
 
 Lilium Speciosum 
 
 Lilium Speciosum Albiflorum 
 
 Lilium Roseum 
 
 Lilium Brownii 
 
 Lilium Canadense 
 
 Excepting Harrisii, these are all hardy, and do 
 best outside. 
 
 While discussing Lilies we must not forget 
 
 Calla, an exceedingly useful and ornamental plant, 
 always ready to respond to the various names by 
 which it is called: the real ones, to which it is justly 
 
LILIUM HARRISII 
 
108 
 
 Lilium. 
 
 entitled, are RicJiardia Africana^ and Lily of the 
 Nile. It is in fact, however, a White Arum, for it 
 belongs to that family. It was named after L. C. 
 Richard, an eminent French botanist. Richardia 
 ^thiopica, or Calla ^thiopica, as it is sometimes 
 written, is rather a misnomer, as the flowers are pure 
 white. 
 
 Despite its names, Calla is an elegant and very 
 
 ARUM SANCTUM 
 
 popular plant. It is not difficult to raise, asking only 
 a good rich soil, plenty of water, well drained pots, 
 and that the Aphides be kept off. In summer put 
 the pots on their sides outdoors, when the roots will 
 dry off. Leave them in this position until September, 
 allowing the plants no water ; then repot in fresh 
 soil, containing well rotted manure and sand, and 
 
Lily of thie Valley 109 
 
 place considerable sand immediately about the bulbs. 
 Now syringe them daily, and give the roots plenty of 
 water; but do not let it stagnate. Tepid water is 
 best. If kept rather warm, in a light position, but 
 with not too much sun, they should bloom nobly 
 during most of the winter. 
 
 There is also 
 
 Black Calla, Arum Sanctum, which is unique and 
 worthy of place in a collection for its oddity. It 
 requires the same treatment as other members of 
 the family. 
 
 Then we have 
 
 Qem Calia, a very florescent miniature species, 
 growing rapidly without attaining the stately pro- 
 portions of its relatives, and almost always in bloom. 
 Gem Callas may be plunged in the ground during 
 summer, and taken up in the fall. When carried 
 into your house, they will continue the greater part 
 of the year to throw out their little flowerets, which 
 are identical in shape and texture with those of the 
 larger varieties. 
 
 All Lilies can be forced ; the ones, however, 
 generally used for this purpose are the Calla, Lilium 
 Longiflorum, and Harrisii. 
 
 LILY OF THE VALLEY. 
 
 Convallaria flajalis. Order Liliacese. These hardy 
 herbaceous perennials make lovely window boxes 
 for early spring ; indeed, with but little trouble you 
 can have them at any time you wish. 
 
 Plant Lilies of the Valley thickly in shallow boxes 
 during the fall, as suggested for Daisies and Pansies; 
 cover them lightly with straw, leaves, or salt hay; 
 and leave them outside until you want them in the 
 
110 
 
 Ivily of tine Valley 
 
 house. When you bring these plants in, put them 
 away in some perfectly dark and very warm place, 
 keeping them moist with warmed water. 
 
 If kept dark and warm enough, they presently will 
 
 *t', ..^i 
 
 
 ^^^?^*< < - 
 
 begin to grow. As soon as they commence to shoot 
 up leaves and show flower stalks, they must be 
 moved to a window, where they will not get too 
 much sun ; and be well supplied with water. 
 
 The secret of success is to keep them very cold 
 
Lily of tine Valley 111 
 
 until you are ready to use them ; then the change to 
 sudden heat forces them into activity. 
 
 The most satisfactory results I have ever seen 
 from forcing Convallarias, were obtained by taking 
 the bunches of pips without untying, just as they 
 come from abroad — the imported ones being best 
 for this purpose — laying them on the ground out- 
 side in the fall; and simply throwing a little salt 
 hay over them as winter advances, to keep the 
 crowns from freezing. They were taken in as 
 needed; kept in a warm room for a while, to thaw 
 out ; then planted in pots or boxes of sand, or sphag- 
 num moss. They were now given plenty of heat; 
 and, when brought to the light, were never allowed 
 to want for water ; shaded from the sun ; and sup- 
 plied with sufficient air, but guarded from cold 
 draughts. 
 
 In summer some gardeners keep the pips in cold 
 storage, taking them out as required; they are thus 
 enabled whenever they please to have the Lilies in 
 bloom. Florists, by means of cold storage, are in 
 these advanced days upsetting a great many of Dame 
 Nature's calculations, forcing her from the beaten 
 track, and breaking all her established rules. As to 
 whether the result is an improvement upon her 
 methods, we must leave the decision to those who 
 demand a constant change from the old routine. 
 
CHAPTER VII 
 
 PALMS 
 
 Arecas 
 
 Cycads 
 
 Oreodoxa 
 
 Caryota 
 
 Ficiis 
 
 Pandanus 
 
 Chaniccrops 
 
 Kentias 
 
 PJ IOC nix 
 
 Cocos 
 
 Latania 
 
 Scaforthia 
 
 CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 
 
 HESE suggestions apply to nearly every 
 plant that I have succeeded in keeping 
 during the winter to brighten our home 
 and gladden our liearts; but I gained the 
 knowledge only through dire disaster, bitter experi- 
 ence, and many doleful failures. I have lost plant 
 after plant through mistaken zeal, literally killing 
 them with kindness, surfeiting them with care, until 
 I discovered that a little judicious neglect did them 
 good. 
 
 When all danger of frost is past and the weather 
 is settled, after the blossom storm, I have all my 
 plants carried out-of-doors; repotted if necessary; 
 the foliage examined for insects, and well washed; 
 and the pots sunken in the ground up to their rims, 
 leaving just enough projecting to take hold of in 
 turning them around. I place all Palms in a sheltered 
 position, where they will get only the morning sun, 
 
Cultural Directions 113 
 
 if possible, and will not be whipped or broken by 
 strong winds. 
 
 Before sinking them, the ball of earth should be 
 removed, and the roots examined in some such 
 manner as the following: — Hold the pot in the left 
 hand ; place the right hand over the top of pot, the 
 fingers passing around or through the stems; gently 
 tap the edge of the pot on some harder substance; 
 and the ball of earth should readily slip out. If it 
 does not come easily, it will be because the earth is 
 too dry. This being so, wet it thoroughly ; wait until 
 the extra water drains off; then try again. 
 
 If the earth is all, or nearly all consumed, and the 
 pot full of roots, it should be at once changed, and 
 replaced in a pot of the same size, imless this will not 
 hold your plant with the fresh earth. 
 
 My own way is to shake off gently any dry hard 
 soil ; try the plant in pots until I find one into which 
 it will slip easily; leaving about an inch of space all 
 around between the plant and sides of the pot, to fill 
 with new earth. The new pot should be well washed. 
 Place a piece of broken crock over the hole in the 
 bottom, to prevent the roots from going through ; 
 put in an inch or two of good fresh soil ; and slip the 
 plant in carefully without breaking the roots. Then 
 fill up by throwing in a little dirt at a time, shaking 
 it down through the plant, by lifting up the pot a 
 little way, and dropping it gently down — not so hard 
 as to break; continuing thus, and pressing well, and 
 firmly with the fingers until it will hold no more ; 
 leaving about an inch from the edge of the rim, for 
 holding water. Now soak the soil through with 
 tepid water — not ice cold, as that chills the roots — 
 and set your plant in the shade. It will generally 
 
114 Cultural Directions 
 
 take care of itself for the rest of the season with but 
 little attention. 
 
 I have mine well showered ever)' day near sunset, 
 and examine for Scale and Mealy Bug about once a 
 week. These enemies, however, seldom attack a 
 plant that is in vigorous growth. If they do, wash- 
 ing the under sides of leaves with a weak solution of 
 whale oil soap, will drive them away. Mealy Bugs 
 sometimes collect in joints or crevices, and have to 
 be picked out with some blunt bit of w^ood. A hair- 
 pin is good for the purpose. 
 
 All Palms do best when restricted as to pot room. 
 Their roots should never be cut or broken. When 
 it is necessary to repot, care should be exercised in 
 taking off the old crock put in for drainage, as it may 
 be grown over by the roots. If you cannot get it 
 out without mutilation, leave it alone; put the ball 
 of roots just as it is into a new pot; and fill in. But 
 be sure the ball is in proper condition — that is, wet 
 through — or it will not take hold of the fresh earth. 
 
 Do without potting as long as possible, by giving 
 top dressings, and nourishing with manure water, 
 when the plants are in a healthy state. But do not 
 give manure water when they look sickly, as they 
 cannot take care of it. That made from cow manure 
 mixed with a little soot, is excellent, if you can pro- 
 cure it; but horse manure will answer, though never 
 quite as well. It is inferior to the other for any 
 plant. 
 
 Be very cautious in using soot; if too strong it 
 may kill your plants. It is, however, when judi- 
 ciously applied, one of the best fertilizers that I have 
 ever used. Should you be so fortunate as to have 
 wood fires, I would advise you to save every parti- 
 
Cuiltiaral Directions 115 
 
 cle of the ashes ; and when you have your chimneys 
 cleaned, religiously preserve every ounce of the soot. 
 
 The ashes from oak wood are particularly strong 
 in potash, and are therefore superior in supplying 
 plant life with one of its chief requirements. But 
 ashes must be handled with judgment. Two tea- 
 spoonfuls worked in, or sprinkled on top of the soil 
 in a small-sized pot, will have a very tonic effect; 
 and a little more should be allowed to larger pots. 
 
 All Palms should be left out-of-doors as long as 
 possible. When the nights begin to grow cold and 
 frost threatens, take them up ; cleanse the outside of 
 pots; give one final look for bugs; and a good wash- 
 ing of the leaves with hose or watering-pot. When 
 they have finished dripping, carry them into the 
 house, and fill your windows, not letting the leaves 
 touch the glass, as, if the sun is strong, they will 
 burn and become discolored. They are also apt to 
 get frost-bitten on cold nights. 
 
 Once placed, and the house shut up for the winter, 
 our real care begins — that is, if one has no moist air, 
 only furnace heat and gas. These deadly foes must 
 be contended with ; and it is only by eternal vigil- 
 ance that we can preserve Palms from their malign 
 influence. Cleanliness and mild fresh air are the 
 best antidotes. Open a window, or set the plants 
 outdoors, when you can, to give the latter; and, as 
 to the former, when you have no means of shower- 
 ing, a sponge dipped in tepid water, passed gently 
 over the leaves on both sides, will take off the dust, 
 and leave the pores, which are the openings to their 
 lungs, unobstructed for breathing. This they are 
 compelled to do freely, as well as you or I, in ordc" 
 to live. 
 
116 Arecas 
 
 Shield them all you can from gas, by lowering the 
 light or turning it out when not absolutely needed 
 where they are; and be sure that it ;/^z^^r escapes ; 
 it poisons them as quickly as it would us. Every 
 mild day give Palms air, but never make a draught by 
 opening opposite windows or doors. One will do; 
 and it will be better if that does not open directly 
 upon the plants. 
 
 Do not give too much water, the mistake most 
 of us make: they are now resting for a while and 
 cannot take care of it. A use of good common 
 sense will regulate the quantity. Examine the soil 
 in the pot. If it appears to be very dry, soak it until 
 wet throiigJi^ but do not let the water stand in the 
 saucers, as it will rot the roots. 
 
 Watch for bugs ; and when you use whale oil soap 
 one day, rinse it off the next with clear water. I 
 always use water with the chill taken off. By fol- 
 lowing these directions I feel assured that you will 
 succeed, as I have done, in keeping plants in this 
 manner for many seasons. 
 
 ARECAS 
 
 These are the most decorative and beautiful Palms 
 we have. Of hardy habit, with long gracefully 
 curved fronds of glossy green, disposed about a trunk 
 of quite a golden hue, they can hold their own with 
 any rival for popular favor. They are elegant at all 
 times, or in any position, being so beautiful in them- 
 selves that it would be almost impossible to place 
 them at a disadvantage. 
 
 Areca Lutescens I have found one of the most use- 
 ful, and with moderate care, one of the most hardy 
 for house purposes. All that it asks in winter is to 
 
Arecas 
 
 117 
 
 be kept clean, and placed where it will not be chilled, 
 yet will receive an abundance of light. Do not give 
 too much water; when the growing time begins it 
 may be more plentifully supplied. If general direc- 
 tions are followed, I cannot see a possibility of not 
 succeeding with this plant in any dwelling. 
 
 If you are not the happy possessor of large speci- 
 mens, an excellent way to make them appear at their 
 
 ARECA LUTESCENS 
 
 best is to place several small Arecas together in one 
 pot, the tallest filling the centre, and the smaller 
 ones grouped closely about it. Or you can arrange 
 several small pots in a large vase, thus with a little 
 ingenuity producing a fine effect. Arecas grow 
 quite rapidly; if you care for them properly, you 
 will be astonished to see how, in a season or two, 
 they will increase in size, development and luxuriant 
 beauty, until they become simply grand. 
 
118 Gary Ota 
 
 CARYOTA 
 
 A small genns of stove Palms, which will live out- 
 side in summer and in the house during winter. 
 Though not so strong as some of the others I shall 
 mention, or able to endure as many hardships, still 
 these plants can be used with good effect. 
 
 They are frequently called Fish Tail Palms, and 
 are known to many by that name only. If given 
 conditions resembling those of their native habitat, 
 they will grow to a colossal size. Of this I have 
 evidence in a magnificent specimen before me: it is 
 forcing the glass out of the top of an immense Palm 
 house, which has already been raised three times for 
 its accommodation, and that of an enormous Latania 
 Borbonica. 
 
 Caryotas like a compost of good rich loam, leaf 
 mould, and a small quantity of sand, with perfect 
 drainage, and an ample supply of water when in 
 vigorous growth. But in the house one must guard 
 against watering them too much. 
 
 Gary Ota Urens is the variety most frequently seen . 
 in private collections. It comes to us from India, 
 and is one of the largest-growing species. 
 
 Caryota Purpuracea is very similar to Urens, ex- 
 cepting that it is a more compact grower, and bears 
 more leaves. 
 
 Caryota Sobolifera, a beautiful slender-stemmed 
 variety from Malacca, is somewhat like Urens in the 
 form of its leaves, but is more of a dwarf growth. 
 It throws out many suckers, which will make new 
 plants; and it is from these generally that the species 
 are propagated. 
 
Clnamaerops — Cocos 119 
 
 CHAM/EROPS 
 
 A very small low-growing genus of the order 
 Palmae; quite hardy, and ornamental. They may 
 be treated like the rest of the family, and used both 
 outside and indoors; but it is essential to keep the 
 leaves clean, and not give too much water during the 
 winter months. In summer they should be well 
 syringed every day, and be placed where strong winds 
 cannot break, or whip the leaves. 
 
 In a rich loam, mixed with some leaf mould and 
 sand, with good drainage, and a liberal supply of 
 water, they do well and grow readily. 
 
 Chamasrops Humilis, a native of Northern Africa, is 
 a fine dwarf species, and the one most commonly 
 seen. A well grown specimen of this variety is very 
 effective for decoration. 
 
 Chamaerops Macrocarpa, a more robust grower, with 
 a hardy constitution, is a good plant for general pur- 
 poses. This Palm is also a native of Northern Africa. 
 
 cocos 
 
 Cocos Weddeliana, from South America, is also a 
 lovely, graceful Palm, standing the hardships of win- 
 ter in an ordinary dwelling with remarkable endur- 
 ance. It is the most beautiful among the many 
 species of this genus, and is much used for table and 
 other decoration. It is synonymous with Leopoldinia 
 Pulchra, and Glaziova Elegantissima. Be sure that 
 you do not kill Weddeliana with water. In summer, 
 sunken out-of-doors, it will take a great deal. 
 
 Cocos Nucifera, the Cocoanut Palm, is the kind that 
 supplies us with cocoanuts. While a quick-growing, 
 elegant species, this variety is much too large for 
 
120 
 
 Coco^ 
 
 house culture, as the leaves on full-grown specimens 
 often attain a length of fifteen or more feet. It would 
 be sad to become wedded to a plant, and then have 
 to give it up or raise the roof. Nature in the plant 
 world frequently astonishes ns, and this might result 
 if Cocos Nucifera were left to its own devices. 
 
 COCOS WEDDELIANA 
 
 Cocoses like a compost of about two parts rich 
 loam, to one of peat, and one of sand. They should 
 have a shaded position, as they cannot stand a hot 
 sun. I have the hose turned on ours daily in sum- 
 mer; and during winter dip the tops in pails of water, 
 to free them from dust, or whatever may have gotten 
 tipon them. I also, during the growing season, 
 occasionally give manure water, which increases their 
 vigor and strengthens them for winter in the house. 
 
Cvcads 
 
 121 
 
 CYCADS 
 
 These are small Palralike trees, which grow very 
 slowly; but every year adds to their beauty and value, 
 as the crown of leaves increases in size. Strictly 
 speaking, they are not Palms; but they are usually so 
 classed by others than scientific botanists. They are 
 not difficult to manage, requiring ordinary soil in well 
 drained pots, a little sun, and plenty of water in the 
 summer when out-of-doors. 
 
 In winter, when in the house, I keep mine about a 
 foot from a window, where they get the sun until 
 about two o'clock, with 
 just enough water to 
 keep them from drying 
 up. Our Cycads were 
 wet possibly once a 
 month last winter, and 
 came out beautifully in 
 the spring; but their 
 success under such con- 
 ditions depends entirely 
 upon the heat of one's 
 house. 
 
 Cycas Revoluta is the cycads 
 
 only one I have grown, 
 
 or experimented with. It is the so-called Sago Palm, 
 sometimes named Japanese Fern Palm. It is the 
 best known and handsomest of the family, with its 
 dark green glossy leaves, and is quite hardy. 
 
 There is a singular Cycad which comes from 
 Mexico, Dioon Edule, probably the slowest of the 
 order, as, after making a growth, it frequently rests 
 two or three years before making another. These 
 plants are very beautiful, and I have often been 
 
122 
 
 F^icos 
 
 tempted to try one, but they are too slow to be allowed 
 house room. 
 
 FICUS 
 
 Ficus Elastica, the India Rubber Plant, we all know 
 well, as it is extensively used both in the house and 
 
 conservatory. It 
 stands confine- 
 ment in rooms bet- 
 ter than any other 
 plant I have ever 
 grown. There are 
 a great many of 
 the genus Ficus, 
 or the Fig family; 
 but they are 
 usually stove or 
 greenhouse trees, 
 or shrubs; and 
 are generally 
 classed among 
 Palms, though of 
 another order. I 
 recommend but 
 this one variety. 
 They do well in 
 sandy loam with a little leaf soil added; and 
 should have quite small pots in comparison with 
 the size of the plants. Plenty of syringing when 
 convenient, or sponging, will keep the leaves clean; 
 and they will take almost any amount of water 
 at the roots. In winter, however, I find that they 
 are satisfied with less; if they get too much their 
 leaves turn a bright yellow, and drop off one by one. 
 
Kentias 123 
 
 When you see them doing this, stop watering the 
 roots for a while, but keep the leaves clean. 
 
 They take comparatively little rest, and if given a 
 sunny window will continue growing most of the 
 time. Out-of-doors in summer they take care of them- 
 selves to a certain extent. 
 
 Ficuses can be trained into fine shape by stopping, 
 or pinching out the terminals, letting them grow only 
 to the size and form you wish, and not into the 
 crooked ungainly objects we sometimes see. If they 
 bleed much when pinched, a raw potato, hollowed 
 out to admit of slipping over the wound, will stop the 
 flow of sap, and can remain until the cut heals. I 
 give my plants manure water when growing, and have 
 the leaves sponged every two or three weeks with 
 lukewarm water in which there is a little common 
 soap. 
 
 KENTIAS 
 
 How beautiful they are ! So much so, that some- 
 times when one can afford only a single specimen, 
 it is difficult to make a choice and decide between 
 them. They are a genus of some six handsome stove 
 Palms, natives of New Guinea and the Moluccas, and 
 named after Lieutenant Colonel Kent. Kentias are 
 related to Arecas. 
 
 Kentia Belmoreana (Belmore's), sometimes called 
 Curly Palm, will stand considerable neglect without 
 resentment. It is decorative, of easy culture, and one 
 of the hardiest for general purposes. It is synonymous 
 with Howea Belmoreana. 
 
 Kentia Forsteriana (Forster's),or Howea Forsteriana, 
 Flat, or Thatch Leaf Palm, is also a fine variety. 
 
124 Latania 
 
 There are only these two of this species, both of 
 them coming from Lord Howe's Island. 
 
 They require the same treatment as that described 
 in the general directions; and be sure to keep their 
 leaves clean. Give a sufficiency of pot room, with an 
 ample supply of water in summer, at the roots and 
 overhead, but not so much in winter. They do well 
 
 KENTIA FORSTERIANA 
 
 in good loam, peat and a little fine sand. If troubled 
 by Red Spider, or Thrips, wash them well in quite 
 soapy water. 
 
 LATANIA 
 
 The Bourbon Palm, a small genus coming from the 
 Islands of the Mauritius; they are exceedingly well 
 known, and you are more than likely to find them, 
 either in a prosperous or half starved condition, 
 wherever you go. 
 
Lat; 
 
 125 
 
 Latania Borbonica, from the Island of Bourbon, is a 
 fine member of this famil)^, and used to ill treatment; 
 but, like the rest of them, it responds to kind atten- 
 tions. It grows quite rapidly when well established, 
 attaining great size, and makes a lovely house plant; 
 with a little care, the smallest ones soon develop into 
 
 LATANIA 
 
 fine specimens. From this plant, which is synony- 
 mous with Livistona Chinensis, of Southern China, we 
 obtain Palm leaf fans. 
 
 Mix some sand with the soil to facilitate drainage. 
 Latanias like manure water occasionally; and be sure 
 to keep them clean at all times If this is not done, 
 the Scale Bug will soon cover the leaves, and like a 
 
126 Oreodoxa — F^andanus 
 
 vampire, suck their life-blood, the sap, until your 
 plant dies. 
 
 Latania Aurea, a synonym of Latania Verschaffeltii, 
 is a fine variety with stout stems and erect roundish 
 deep green leaves, which have golden-colored ribs. 
 This species is not so universally cultivated as Bor- 
 bonica. 
 
 OREODOXA 
 
 From the Greek words doxa oreos^ glory of a moun- 
 tain, referring to the immense height of some of 
 them. A small but elegant genus of South Ameri- 
 can Palms, which are very fine for rooms. 
 
 They enjoy most a mixture of loam with a little 
 peat and sand; and when outside should be sheltered 
 from the wind to some extent. There are only a few 
 of this species. They are as pretty as Phoenix, and 
 require the same culture. 
 
 Oreodoxa Regia is a lovely, graceful, slender-grow- 
 ing variety. 
 
 Oreodoxa Sancona is also a handsome species, and 
 easily grown. Its leaves are a reddish-bronze w^hen 
 young. It is as adaptable as Cocos for room decora- 
 tion. 
 
 Oreodoxa Oleracea, Cabbage Palm, is a native of the 
 West Indies. It has gracefully arched leaves that 
 grow from four to six feet long. 
 
 Oreodoxa Granatensis is a beautiful variety and ex- 
 cellent for decoration. 
 
 PANDANUS 
 
 Screw Pine. This is a genus of handsome, easily 
 managed house plants. They belong to the order 
 Pandaneae, number about eighty species, and are 
 
Pandantas 127 
 
 mostly natives of the Malayan Archipelago. While 
 not Palms, these plants are often catalogued with 
 them in collections. 
 
 They succeed best in sandy loam, with some leaf 
 soil (such as we get from the woods) intermixed with 
 
 PANDANUS VEITCHII 
 
 sand and charcoal ; and they should have plenty of 
 water in summer. In winter, however, I keep them 
 almost entirely dry and never allow one drop of 
 water to lodge in the axils of the leaves ; if this hap- 
 pens they rot in the bud, and some fine morning one 
 discovers that the whole head of leaves has fallen off. 
 Should they begin to turn yellow, you may know 
 
128 F'hioerLix 
 
 that they are getting too much water, if you have 
 been giving it to them freely or often; or that they 
 need some, if they have not been wet for along time. 
 My own Pandanuses w^ent through last winter with 
 scarcely any. 
 
 Pandanus Veitchii, one of the best, is beautifully 
 marked, being dark green bordered with broad bands 
 of pure white. This plant is largely used in a young 
 state. It throws out numerous offsets, which should 
 be detached, and rooted in small pots as soon as they 
 are large enough to handle. 
 
 Pandanus Utilis is another excellent variety. 
 
 These two are the ones generally found in collec- 
 tions, though the family is such a large one. 
 
 They have a habit of pushing their roots upwards 
 until they become very leggy. When they do this, 
 and grow unsightly, it is best for an amateur to get 
 some good florist to attend to them. There is a 
 method of cutting them down. I know how to do it, 
 but prefer not to explain, as it might not be fully 
 understood, and cause you to lose your plants. 
 
 Pandanuses will grow to a great size, making fine 
 specimens that command large prices. 
 
 PHOENIX 
 
 Date Palm. There are about a dozen species of 
 this genus, handsome greenhouse Palms with us, 
 coming as they do from tropical or subtropical 
 countries. In the South of France numbers of them 
 are grown in the open air to supply the Paris market, 
 which makes a large demand for decorative purposes. 
 These plants are very beautiful, and do well in the 
 house with the same treatment as that given other 
 Palms. 
 
F*]noenix: 
 
 129 
 
 Phoenix Dactylifera, the common date-bearing Palm 
 that grows to a great height in its native lands, is a 
 handsome upright species. 
 
 Phoenix Canariensis, from the Canary Islands, is a 
 rapid grower, and in every way a desirable plant. 
 
 Phoenix Rupicola is, in my opinion, the handsomest 
 of them all. 
 
 PHCENIX RUPICOLA 
 
 Phoenix Sylvestris, the East Indian Wine Palm, or 
 Wild Date, is one of the hardiest. 
 
 Phoenix Reclinata, from South America, is a large- 
 growing species, with its lovely green leaves beauti- 
 fully recurved. I know of nothing more ornamental 
 than a well grown specimen. To hold the long roots, 
 have deep pots; let them be well drained, and filled 
 with rich soil; give the plants partial shade, and 
 plenty of water when growing. Keep the leaves 
 clean. With these simple requirements satisfied they 
 should make a fine showing. 
 
130 Seaforthiia 
 
 SEAFORTHIA 
 
 Seaforthia Elegans. The Australian Feather Palm, 
 that comes to us from Queensland and New South 
 Wales, is a tall-growing variety, requiring only that 
 its leaves be kept clean; and that it have leaf mould, 
 good loam and sand, thorough drainage, and plenty 
 of water ; but be careful not to give too much water 
 in winter. 
 
 It is a very graceful as well as stately plant, with 
 a tall trunk, and thrives remarkably in dwellings. 
 
 Seaforthia is synonymous with Ptychosperma. 
 
 The foregoing group includes all the Palms that I 
 consider useful, decorative and manageable in the 
 house, and the only ones with which I have been 
 successful. There are numerous other varieties, but 
 they will prosper only in a greenhouse. Those which 
 I have mentioned, however, you will find sufficient, 
 and they will amply repay you for the care bestowed 
 upon them. 
 
 All the Palms in this list require very much the 
 same treatment — to be kept clean, free from bugs, in 
 as small pots as possible, and not to be given too 
 much water during the winter months. 
 
 About the last of February they will begin to grow. 
 Then a mild solution of manure water, given once a 
 week, will help them. It should be about the color 
 of weak coffee; and can be made by tying the manure 
 in a coarse bag or cloth, pouring water over, and let- 
 ting it stand for some hours, say over night. Then 
 dilute, if too strong, and use. I have it made very 
 strong to save time, and thinned as needed. Do not 
 let the earth be dry when you apply manure water. 
 
CHAPTER VIII 
 
 SHRUBS 
 
 Abut Hon 
 
 Azaleas 
 
 Hoya 
 
 AcalypJia 
 
 Dap /me 
 
 Hydrangeas 
 
 Aloysia 
 
 Gardenia 
 
 Jasininum 
 
 At alia 
 
 Grevillea 
 
 Olea 
 
 Ardisia 
 
 Hibiscus 
 
 Oleander 
 
 
 Oranges 
 
 Roses 
 
 
 ABUTILON 
 
 
 HOWY, free-growing shrubs, very pretty 
 both outside and in the house. These 
 plants are easily grown, and will repay 
 your care. They like a soil of equal parts 
 of good loam, peat and leaf mould, with some sand. 
 Abutilons must have thorough drainage, as they 
 need quantities of water when blooming; at the 
 same time, also, give them weak manure water. 
 
 Planted out-of-doors in spring, if the buds are 
 pinched off as soon as they show, Abutilons can be 
 kept from blooming until late fall. Their bloom 
 will continue for some time after the plants are 
 carried into the house, if the change from outside 
 air to a close room is not made too suddenly. In the 
 latter case, they will drop the buds and possibly their 
 
13f>. 
 
 Abutilon 
 
 leaves also. It is well to bring them in before you 
 have to start the furnace, as then they gradually will 
 get used to the change from the free air outside. 
 
 After their flowering, lessen the water, and let 
 them rest, giving just enough to keep them from 
 drying up; but as soon as they begin work again, 
 keep them well supplied. Young plants that are 
 specially prepared for winter bloom, do better than 
 old ones. I refer to slips that have been taken from 
 
 ABUTILON 
 
 the parent plant and rooted during summer. They 
 strike readily from cuttings of the young wood at 
 almost any season; the best time, however, is the 
 spring, or September. These young plants should 
 bloom surely in winter. 
 
 Your old plants may be put away in some cool 
 place, and kept almost dry; they will come out again 
 in the spring, stronger and better than ever. Do 
 not, because the leaves fall, throw your plants away, 
 and think they are gone beyond redemption ; possibly 
 
Abtatilon 133 
 
 they are only tired. If you let them rest, and stop 
 watering for a while, they may soon revive and 
 flourish. 
 
 Abutilons may be trained easily. I prefer the tree 
 shape, letting the main stem run up as tall as one 
 desires, then nipping off the terminal bud. This 
 will make the plant seek an outlet for its vigor, in 
 some other direction; the result will be a side shoot. 
 You may keep cutting or pinching until you get a 
 neat, full, round head. Then let the flower buds 
 form ; and be sure you do not pinch them off, or you 
 will get no flowers. 
 
 I consider it best for this purpose to take new 
 plants each summer: so that if anything happens to 
 the old stock, one is still provided for. 
 
 Excepting the Aphis, or Green Fly, bugs do not 
 trouble Abutilons very much. Water, or soap suds, 
 will keep them down. If you make a w^arm lather in 
 a tub (the plants will stand it quite hot), wind a cloth 
 over the top of pot to keep the dirt from washing or 
 falling out, invert the plant and dip the whole of it 
 in, moving gently about; or throw the water on with 
 your hands; you can wash the insects off. Then 
 rinse the plant in clear w^ater, seeing that no bugs 
 are left clinging to the dirt. You will thus be rid of 
 them, for a while at least. 
 
 There are many varieties of Abutilons; I think 
 them all pretty: they are so graceful with their 
 crimson, pink, white and golden bells, drooping down 
 and peeping out everywhere amidst the clean-cut 
 foliage. 
 
 Boule de Neige, a very good tall-growing variety, 
 has pure white flowers. 
 
 Golden Bells is a fine yellow, and a prolific bloomer. 
 
134 Acalyptia 
 
 Santana is also very attractive with its deep red 
 flowers. 
 
 There are many others, all more or less good, in- 
 cluding some dwarf specimens, quite distinct from 
 those I have named. They grow about a foot and a 
 half in height. 
 
 ACALYPHA 
 
 Acalyphas are good for effect, being highly colored 
 when well grown. Though rather coarse, their bril- 
 
 ACALYPHA 
 
 liant leaves make a fine contrast amidst the green of 
 other plants. They are shrubs, and easily cared for. 
 Place the pots where they will have the full bene- 
 fit of sunlight in summer, and give plenty of water. 
 In winter, keep them near the glass of a south win- 
 dow to get the sun ; water carefully, or they will drop 
 their leaves. If they do this, put them away where 
 
Aloysia 136 
 
 they will not freeze; they will come out again in the 
 spring-. 
 
 These plants grow in almost any ordinary garden 
 soil, but enjoy best a rich loam, and weekly supplies 
 of manure water during the summer. 
 
 Some of the hybridized varieties are beautifully 
 colored, one of the handsomest and most satisfactory 
 being 
 
 Acalypha Macrophylla. 
 
 The following also are both desirable: 
 
 Acalypha Musaica, from Polynesia, a bronzy -green, 
 variegated with red and orange; 
 
 Acalypha Wilkesiana, or Tricolor. 
 
 ALOYSIA 
 
 Fragrant, or Lemon Verbena; of the order Verbe- 
 naceae. Named after Maria Louisa, mother of Fer- 
 dinand VII, King of Spain. They are deciduous 
 greenhouse shrubs, but by good management may 
 be kept growing most of the time. Their odor is 
 very grateful to many people, and delightfully re- 
 freshing. They should be planted out in May in a 
 sunny open situation. When liberally supplied with 
 water they will make good growth. 
 
 Lift early in September; cut back both roots and 
 tops; repot, in good sandy soil; water well, and set 
 in the shade until they recover and show signs of new 
 growth. 
 
 Take them in before frost; keep them as cool as 
 possible during the winter, and quite dry for a while, 
 to rest them. When they begin active growth give 
 more water. By pruning the roots they may be kept 
 in smaller pots: they will soon throw out fine working 
 roots from the cut portions. 
 
136 Aralia 
 
 Aloysia Citriodora, synonymous with Lippia Citri- 
 odora, and Verbena Triphylla, has slender branches 
 that maybe trimmed, or trained in a variety of ways. 
 I keep mine cut back until they form a good round 
 head, which makes them stocky, and prevents a 
 straggling appearance. They break in a new place 
 every time you pinch or cut off the terminal shoot. 
 
 Their delicate, pale green, lemon-scented leaves, 
 blend harmoniously with almost any flower, and 
 serve to bring out fresh beauty. 
 
 Should they lose their leaves after coming inside, 
 as they will if kept too hot, put them away where 
 they will not freeze, with scarcely any water; give 
 just a little, occasionally, to keep them from drying 
 up. After resting thus awhile they will once more 
 commence to throw out leaves, and soon will be 
 clothed in beautiful raiment to gladden your senses. 
 So they may be kept on from year to year, growing 
 stronger, stouter, more beautiful, and, if you have 
 trained them well, resembling miniature trees. 
 
 ARALIA 
 
 A term whose meaning is unknown. The genus 
 embraces many varieties of greenhouse, hardy, her- 
 baceous and shrubby plants. 
 
 Aralias are effective, and give but little trouble. 
 With a rich, porous, sandy loam, sunken in some 
 shaded, sheltered position, and copiously suppHed 
 with water both overhead and at the roots, they will 
 make a fine growth before it is time to take them in, 
 should you wish them for the house. 
 
 In an ordinary dwelling, in winter, they wdll not 
 require much water, if you give them a moderately 
 cool situation. 
 
Ardisia 137 
 
 Their leaves must be kept clean, or the Scale Bug- 
 will take possession. 
 
 After resting awhile, they probably, about the last 
 of January, will show signs of vigorous growth ; then 
 they will need more water, and must not become 
 dry. 
 
 There are so niany varieties that it is hard to indi- 
 vidualize, but, personally, I prefer 
 
 Sieboldi, which, with its glossy leaves of rich dark 
 green, has become quite a pet of mine. 
 
 ARDISIA 
 
 This is a large genus of greenhouse, evergreen 
 trees and shrubs, with whose history and peculiarities 
 we need not encumber our minds, as I propose to 
 recommend only one member of the family, the one 
 with which I am most familiar — my favorite. 
 
 Ardisia Crenulata will make a lovely contrast in any 
 collection of foliage plants, lighting up beautifully 
 with its bright red berries the various greens of 
 Palms, Cycads and Ferns. 
 
 Ardisias need well drained pots of peat, loam, 
 some sand and about one-fourth of well rotted 
 manure; a light situation; and judicious watering. 
 When they commence to fruit, manure water given 
 once or twice a week, until the berries are colored, 
 will help them much ; and they must always be kept 
 very cool. A temperature of about forty-five 
 degrees, but not lower, will suit them admirably in 
 winter; with only this amount of heat, they will be 
 less liable to the attacks of a large brown Scale, 
 and other pests that are partial to them. 
 
 If grown in a cool atmosphere the berries of one 
 
138 Azaleas 
 
 crop are very likely to remain until another crop of 
 fresh ones is formed. 
 
 Ardisias often grow unshapely after reaching a 
 height of about two feet, by getting naked at the 
 bottom. This you can remedy, by cutting them 
 back to within two or three inches of the pots in 
 early spring, letting them become dry at the roots 
 before doing so. After the cuts have healed over, 
 begin giving water gradually, and they will soon 
 break into fresh growth, when you can shape them 
 to suit your fancy, by rubbing off badly placed shoots. 
 
 I think you will find them more effective than the 
 well known Solanum, commonly called Jerusalem 
 Cherry. 
 
 AZALEAS 
 
 A decidedly popular genus of plants, remarkably 
 beautiful, consisting of both hardy and greenhouse 
 varieties. Comparatively few flower lovers, who are 
 not blessed with greenhouses, attempt the culture of 
 Azaleas, which is due to an erroneous impression 
 that they cannot be managed without glass. 
 
 This is a mistake. They are as easy to handle as 
 Roses or Chrysanthemums, if not easier. If you do 
 not understand, or take the trouble to learn the 
 habits and requirements of your plants, you are apt 
 to lose them ; and, as fine specimens are rather ex- 
 pensive, you would naturally hesitate before investing 
 in many, or, perhaps, even in one. But if, like most 
 of us, you admire, and would care to have them, 
 there is no earthly reason why you should not, and 
 succeed as well as it is possible for any one to do. 
 
 If you have room, six or eight plants will afford 
 you much delight, and a succession of bloom for two 
 or three months. 
 
Azaleas 
 
 139 
 
 Ghent Azaleas are the hardy species, and 
 
 Azalea Indica, the Indian or Chinese Azalea, the 
 
 greenhouse variety. 
 
 One of the first essentials is good soil, made up of 
 
 one-half peat, and the other half equal quantities of 
 
 leaf mould, fibrous loam and sand, with tlLoroiigh 
 
 drainage. 
 
 AZALEA INDICA 
 
 They insist upon an abundance of water during 
 the growing and blooming seasons, and must never 
 be allowed to become dry ; yet great care is neces- 
 sary, as an excess of water is as bad as not enough. 
 
 Too much water causes the fine roots, with which 
 these plants are provided, to decay. This you can 
 prevent by being certain that your drainage is per- 
 fect, and that no water can possibly stand in the pots. 
 
140 Azaleas 
 
 The roots of Azaleas are so small and threadlike, 
 and grow in such thick masses about the stalks, that 
 water cannot always penetrate them. This you 
 must watch out for. Have the soil a little lower 
 around the stalks, that the water may ran to the 
 centre and soak through there; but be sure it does 
 run tJiroiigJi^ and not stand. 
 
 If you have no other means of showering them 
 which is necessay to keep off the Thrips and Red 
 Spider, a good plan is to set the pot in a large tub, 
 t)r bucket, containing enough warm water to barely 
 'cover the pot. While the roots are getting well 
 saturated you can sprinkle, or shower the tops, to 
 wash off these pests, and cleanse your foliage at the 
 same time. If you place the bucket in your bath-tub 
 you can shower all you wish to; no dirt will get on 
 the floor or down the pipes, as the bucket will catch 
 and hold any soil that may wash out of the pots ; the 
 drip from the leaves may fall into the tub without 
 harm. 
 
 There are various ways of managing, to give them 
 a good bath and keep them clean. But always place 
 the plant in a bucket. If you have no bath-tub, 
 wash-tubs in the laundry will do. Should you have 
 neither of these, take a common wash-tub, and make 
 a warm lather in it with common soap; or, if the 
 bugs are very bad, use whale oil soap. 
 
 Tie a cloth over the top of your pot to keep the 
 earth from falling out, and, inverting the plant, dip 
 it in and wash well. 
 
 This is to be done only before they begin to bloom, 
 as during the blooming period it would spoil the 
 flowers. If, however, you have kept them clean, 
 and growing well up to that time, the bugs will not 
 
Azaleas 141 
 
 do them any harm, unless the plants are in too warm 
 an atmosphere. 
 
 Azaleas can hardly get too much light or air. 
 They must be kept very cool to thrive; and you 
 should change your pots to ones of larger size as they 
 outgrow the old ones. With a little care you can 
 grow immense and beautiful plants. The best time 
 to repot is just after they have finished blooming, 
 and before they have commenced to make new 
 growth. 
 
 For the attention they receive now you will be 
 repaid a hundred-fold in the coming season, if you 
 will endeavor to follow closely the advice or instruc- 
 tions, as you please, which I am going to give. 
 
 Turn your plants out of the pots; break off all the 
 old crock, or whatever you have used for drainage, 
 and all the old dirt that will come by jarring, shak- 
 ing or otherwise. Be careful not to break the roots, 
 from the bottom of the ball of roots and soil. 
 
 This should considerably diminish the size, but 
 should leave you still a rather compact hard mass. 
 
 Have well washed pots, exactly one size larger than 
 those from which you have just taken the plant. 
 
 Let your soil be ready close at hand. Put in 
 broken crock as before for drainage ; then take each 
 plant, and with a small stick, blunt and round (or 
 the tine of a hay fork, if you have one), an old carv- 
 ing fork, or anything of that kind, make holes all 
 about and through your mass of roots, by gently in- 
 serting the instrument and pressing the roots apart, 
 so that water may get in, and the roots may get out, 
 to come in contact with the fresh earth. 
 
 Now place your plant in the centre of the pot, and 
 fill in. Each handful, or trowelful you throw in, 
 
142 Azaleas 
 
 should be packed down firmly with the handle of a 
 trowel (a good thing- to use), or with the fingers. 
 The whole future existence of your plant depends, in a 
 great measure, upon these holes, and this firm packing. 
 
 Continue thus until the pot is filled up to within 
 half an inch of the rim, being sure to leave the roots 
 near the stem above the surface of the ground. If 
 they are covered, and water should sink in and settle 
 around them, they would rot, and so destroy the 
 plant before you discovered what was wrong. 
 
 The reason for being so particular about the firm- 
 ness and solidity of the soil, is, that your mass of 
 roots is much harder and more solid than this light 
 new earth; consequently, if you throw the latter 
 loosely into your pots, when you come to water 
 them, the water will run quickly through this porous, 
 soft soil, gliding over the hard roots as it would over 
 a duck's back, without having time to penetrate. 
 The result will be that the plant will die from lack of 
 moisture. If, however, you have done your work 
 properly, the water will go down slowly, and sinking 
 through all the holes you have made, will penetrate 
 to the very centre ; the whole mass of earth will thus 
 become equally saturated, and softened; so that the 
 roots will spread out, and take hold of the new soil. 
 
 If you have potted directly after blooming ceased^ 
 but not otherwise, take a pair of clipping shears, and 
 trim your plant all over to a nice round shape. The 
 flowers are borne on the new wood. They at once will 
 begin to make this new wood, on which buds will 
 form. Accordingly, if you trim later than the time 
 I speak of, you will cut off all your buds^ and the 
 floivers you are looking forward to for next year. 
 
 After you finish the necessary trimming, water 
 
Azaleas 
 
 143 
 
 well, both overhead and at the roots. vSet the plants 
 in some close place where the sun or wind will not 
 strike them, and dry them out before they are well 
 established. Syringe freely for a few days, until 
 they look as if they were growing again. Then, if 
 the season is advanced enough to allay fears of frost, 
 
 they may be plunged in some garden border. Here 
 let them remain without further trouble, except a 
 daily soaking or showering of water, until the very 
 last possible moment in autumn, which means until 
 you are sure there will be a frost. This must not catch 
 them, as it will blast the buds, and all your fond hopes. 
 You must remember to turn the pots occasionally, 
 or your plants will grow all crooked. 
 
144 Azaleas 
 
 If you will mulch the pots with old manure, as I 
 have suggested for other plants, you will be surprised 
 at the effect. 
 
 There are two objections to this treatment: one is 
 that the manure, if too fresh and strong, will burn 
 your plants; the other that the manure is apt to fill 
 the pots with angle worms. Some say that it is 
 sure to do so; but I am simply giving my own ex- 
 perience, and stating facts that I have personally 
 gathered from experiment. 
 
 In refutation of these other people I would say that 
 the worms will get in anyway, being like the poor, 
 always with us; and, as the maniire, if in proper 
 condition, does so much to benefit the plants, I put 
 it on mine, and take my chances of ousting the 
 worms. 
 
 There are various ways of getting rid of these 
 pests. For instance, quite hot water, poured on the 
 earth, will not hurt the plants, but will cause the 
 worms to crawl rapidly to the surface, where they 
 can be picked off and destroyed. But even if they 
 remain, when you take the pots out of ground 
 for the winter, you will have to keep your plant in 
 some room, or cellar, whose temperature will be just 
 above freezing. Here, while the Azaleas will do 
 finely, it very probably will be too much for the 
 worms, which require warmer c|uarters. 
 
 I would particularly warn you— no matter wliat you 
 see or hear recommended for their destruction — never 
 use lime water. It is excellent with some other 
 flowers, but must not be used on Azaleas: they will 
 not do well in soil that has any lime at all in it. 
 When the plants are blooming, do not allow them 
 ever to stand in the sun, as it withers the flowers. 
 
Dapline 145 
 
 At this time give them weak manure water about 
 once in seven days. 
 
 When you bring- your plants into the house, do not 
 neglect watering; and, on mild days, give them all 
 the outdoor air possible. 
 
 They stand considerable cold; indeed the cooler 
 they are kept without being frosted or frozen, the 
 longer you can postpone their blooming, and the 
 better the flowers will be when you do bring them 
 into the heat. Even then you should try not to have 
 your rooms too hot, the bloom will thus hold for a 
 much greater time. 
 
 We had large specimens, a perfect mass of lovely 
 flowers, in some ot our living-rooms this season. 
 They scented the house with their fragrance, and 
 delighted the eye for an unheard of length of time. 
 Yet a friend, to whom some of the same plants, pre- 
 pared in the same manner, were sent, complained 
 that they began to drop their flowers within twenty- 
 four hours after entering the house. 
 
 I investigated, and soon found out the secret. 
 
 In the first place, there was a slight leakage of gas 
 in the room where they were; then, they were never 
 given any fresh air, which might have counteracted 
 this deadly miasma; and the little dab of moisture, 
 that my friend called watering, was worse than 
 none. These combined causes were too much for 
 the lovely Azaleas; they succumbed in about three 
 days, coming back to us, looking most forlorn, with 
 all their beauty departed. 
 
 DAPHNE 
 
 The Greek name of the Bay Tree, Laurus Nobilis. 
 It is a genus of very ornamental evergreen or de- 
 
146 Gardenia 
 
 ciduous shrubs. Some of them make excellent 
 house plants, as they are not difficult to care for; 
 moreover, they do not grow very tall, which is a 
 desideratum with those of us who are limited as to 
 space. 
 
 Daphne Odora is an exceedingly pretty evergreen, 
 greenhouse shrub, which fact need not alarm one, 
 as the plant may be readily accustomed to a change 
 of residence, and will do as well in the house as an 
 Orange, Lemon, or other hard-wooded shrub. It is 
 an old plant ; yet for some unaccountable reason is 
 but seldom seen. I am, however, assured that were 
 it generally known it would be greatly appreciated. 
 It has thick, dark green leaves, and throws out 
 clusters of the most delightfully fragrant flowers, 
 which alone should make it a favorite. 
 
 These plants require to be kept very cool ; a tem- 
 perature as low as fifty-five degrees will start them 
 growing, and they should not be any warmer, unless 
 you wish them to bloom. Every year after flowering 
 they should be potted, with equal proportions of 
 good loam and peat, and perfect drainage. Be very 
 careful about watering them in winter, as they will 
 need very little water when not blooming. 
 
 They grow so slowly that five or six-inch pots will 
 be large enough for good-sized specimens. 
 
 If you do not care for them in the house, they can 
 be put away in a cellar; and set out in the spring. 
 They must be kept clean like other shrubs. 
 
 GARDENIA 
 
 Cape Jasmine. A genus of considerable size con- 
 taining a number of greenhouse evergreen trees or 
 shrubs, all more or less handsome. Named after 
 
Oardenia 147 
 
 Doctor Alexander Garden, of Charleston, South 
 Carolina. Most of us are familiar with 
 
 Gardenia Florida, and know what a beautiful speci- 
 men of the family it is. These plants are not hard 
 to raise if you can give them plenty of heat; keep 
 them free from bugs; and, when growing, allow 
 them quantities of water. They should also be 
 syringed daily, morning and night, if possible. 
 They like a rough compost of about two-thirds peat, 
 one of loam, and some charcoal. 
 
 Gardenias are readily propagated by taking healthy 
 slips five or six inches long, stripping off all the 
 lower leaves, and planting them in a box of very 
 sandy soil. Strong well ripened cuttings, with heel 
 if possible, should be selected, and covered up to the 
 second or third joint. Keep them moist all the 
 while; and place over the box a pane of glass. 
 August is a good time to do this. 
 
 It is well to have new plants coming on; they do 
 better than very old ones, and can be grown for suc- 
 cession, thus prolonging the blooming period. 
 
 In Texas and Mexico, for some unaccountable rea- 
 son that I have never fathomed, they mix coffee grounds 
 with the soil in which they plant Cape Jasmines; and 
 water them with coffee water made from the grounds 
 left over. They also put coffee grounds as a mulch 
 and fertilizer on their Oleanders. I have never dis- 
 covered what benefit there was in this treatment, but 
 only know that their plants seem to thrive under it. 
 
 If the leaves of Gardenias turn yellow, or begin to 
 fall, mix powdered sulphur in the soil. About half 
 an ounce to a five or six-inch pot will be sufficient. 
 It has a wonderful effect upon them. 
 
 Watch eternally for insects. 
 
148 Grevillea — Hibiscus 
 
 GREVILLEA 
 
 Exceedingly graceful plants, most of them hand- 
 some greenhouse trees or shrubs, that belong to a 
 family of which considerably over a hundred mem- 
 bers have been described. Out of this large con- 
 nection I shall recommend only one, which from ex- 
 periment I know will do well. Wiih the rest of the 
 family, though they may be equally meritorious, I 
 personally have had no practical experience, and 
 therefore cannot say whether they would thrive in 
 the ordinary living-room or not. 
 
 Grevillea Robusta, a delicately lovely variety of 
 easy culture, is my favorite. If these plants are 
 potted in rich soil, with some sharp sand mixed in ; 
 plunged in a shaded position; given liquid manure 
 occasionally; and watered freely overhead and at the 
 roots every day ; they will make a fine growth before 
 it is time to take them in. 
 
 Keep them moderately cool in the house, as they 
 dry like Ferns in too hot an atmosphere. Give them 
 fresh air when possible ; and a moderate amount of 
 water, dipping the top whenever convenient into a 
 pail or tub of water to refresh and cleanse the 
 foliage, and they will keep beautifully all through 
 the winter. By lessening the supply of water, you 
 allow them to get time to rest before their spring 
 work commences. If you succeed with one I do not 
 think you will regret the effort. 
 
 HIBISCUS 
 
 The ancient Greek name for Marsh Mallow. It in- 
 cludesin its number about one hundred and fifty spe- 
 cies, comprising stove, greenhouse, and hardy shrubs 
 
Hibiscus 
 
 149 
 
 and hcrljs coming" niostl}" from tropical places. They 
 are variable in color, with dark, rich glossy leaves; 
 and usually have very large, brilliant and showy 
 flowers. 
 
 Hibicuses like a compost of peat, and rich, fibry 
 loam, not too fine, in equal parts; with the addition 
 of some sand or charcoal to make it porous. They 
 must have perfect drainage, for, if water stagnates 
 at the roots, they will drop their leaves. They enjoy 
 the sun; yet its afternoon beams are too strong for 
 them. Water them regularly, and give plenty on 
 the leaves. Weak manure water at the roots is 
 good when they are blooming. 
 
 These plants do well in the 
 ground outside in summer. If 
 they are kept in pots, they can 
 be transferred to your warm- 
 est spot in the house, and will 
 continue to flourish for some 
 time. If they drop their 
 leaves, set them away to rest. 
 In winter keep the soil moist ^ 
 not wet; and watch out for 
 insects. 
 
 They can be stored where hibiscus 
 
 they will not freeze or en- 
 tirely dry up, and, with a little cutting back in 
 the spring, they will come out as good as ever, 
 if not better, being stronger at the roots. vSomc 
 species are perfectly hardy, and can be left 
 out altogether, growing larger with each suc- 
 ceeding year ; but they are not so fine, in my 
 opinion, as the tender varieties, being of a coarser 
 type. 
 
150 Ploya 
 
 The following- are all good, and make very attract- 
 ive plants: 
 
 Hibiscus Schizopetalus 
 Hibiscus Coccineus 
 Hibiscus Splendens 
 Hibiscus Rosa Sinensis 
 Hibiscus Rosa Sinensis Cooper! 
 
 HOYA 
 
 Wax Plant. A large family comprising- about 
 fifty species of scandent or decumbent shrubs. They 
 are all ornamental stove plants, being* natives of 
 tropical and subtropical countries, such as Australia 
 and the Malayan Archipelago. The leaves are thick 
 and fleshy, the flowers waxlike. 
 
 Hoya Carnosa, the one most commonly known, bears 
 lovely pinkish -white flowers in large pendulous 
 umbels on short stems. I am quite familiar with 
 this plant, having grown it very successfully. It 
 likes a rough peaty soil with perfect drainage, fresh 
 air, and not a great deal of shade. Hoya Carnosa 
 should be rested in winter by giving it less water, 
 and keeping it moderately cool. It is a climber, and 
 can be trained over a trellis, or does well in a basket. 
 
 Do not cut off the flower stalks, as the next year's 
 flowers are produced on them and the new wood. 
 
 Among those described there must be others 
 equally satisfactory of which I have only knowledge 
 gathered from others, such as: 
 
 Hoya Bella, from India, a shrubby dwarf species, 
 which grows about a foot and a half high, and has 
 white flowers with crimson centres; 
 
Hydrangeas 151 
 
 Hoya Paxtoni, that greatly resembles it in growth 
 and appearance, except that it has lighter-colored 
 leaves and pure white flowers with pink centres. 
 
 The family, however, is too numerous for me to 
 attempt their description in these pages. 
 
 HYDRANGEAS 
 
 A much larger genus than is generally supposed, 
 though a very small one when compared with other 
 families that number hundreds. There are over 
 thirt)^ of the species, greenhouse and hardy, decidu- 
 ous and evergreen, shrubs and trees, coming from 
 Asia, Java, the Himalayan Mountains and other 
 places. They are easily cultivated and very orna- 
 mental for window decoration, as we all know. 
 
 Hydrangeas do W'Cll outside in summer either 
 potted or in the ground ; and some of them are suffi- 
 ciently hardy to be left out all through the year. 
 The varieties having abortive or sterile flowers, are 
 the most extensively grown, being the most orna- 
 mental on account of their enlarged calices. They 
 require very rich soil, and an abundance of water ; 
 in fact, it would be difficult to give them too much 
 water while growing, and flowering, as they are 
 naturally an aquatic genus ; but, like all other plants, 
 they need good drainage. And the roots must not 
 be crowded. 
 
 One can raise new plants every year, they are so 
 readily propagated: but I prefer the older speci- 
 mens, as they give larger heads of bloom, and in- 
 crease in beauty all the while. 
 
 There are many ways of caring for Hydrangeas. 
 I shall endeavor to explain some of them as lucidly 
 
152 Hydrangeas 
 
 as possible, leaving you to adopt the one which ap- 
 pears most feasible. 
 
 If your plant or plants have been outside all sum- 
 mer, either in pots or in the ground, where they did 
 not get too much sun, and had all the water they 
 wanted; and you wish them to continue growing in 
 your windows during the winter; pot them in Sep- 
 tember, if they are in the ground ; water them well, 
 and set them in the shade to recover. If they are in 
 pots already, simply bring them into the house before 
 frost touches them; keep them moderately warm; 
 supply them with water; and they will go on growing. 
 
 Should they begin to drop their leaves, set them 
 away in the coldest place you have that is frost- 
 proof, and let them rest for a while — perhaps six 
 weeks, or two months — then bring them into the 
 heat; give them a moderate supply of water; and 
 you will soon see the leaf buds swelling. In a short 
 time they should be in full foliage, and before long 
 should throw up flower buds: they are no great 
 idlers, and are quite willing to work during the 
 greater part of the year. 
 
 If you desire them only in summer, and do not 
 wish to bother with them in the house, you can keep 
 them from season to season with very little trouble. 
 Put them in a cellar, as I said before, in the fall; and 
 let them remain there until they show such unmis- 
 takable signs of growth that they must be brought 
 to the light. This must then be done, or they will 
 grow weak and spindling. 
 
 If therjs is no place in the house, but plenty of 
 ground outside, have a pit dug, where there is good 
 drainage, and no possible danger of water settling or 
 standing. Take your plants out of whatever they 
 
154 Hydrangeas 
 
 are in; lay them down slantwise in this trench or pit 
 which you have ready, with the heads up; and cover 
 them with dirt, taking care not to break or destroy 
 the tops in any way. After putting a couple of feet 
 of soil on, leaving just the tips of the branches out 
 for air, cover the whole thing over with straw, salt 
 hay, leaves, or something of that kind, to keep the 
 frost out. But do not use manure, as that will make 
 them too warm, and they will begin to grow. 
 
 If you have ever seen a farmer trench up celery 
 for the winter, you will know exactly what I mean, 
 for it is done just as you must do with your Hydran- 
 geas. You must understand that if any water settles 
 amongst them, they will be destroyed; but if rightly 
 prepared they will come out in the spring in fine con- 
 dition. 
 
 As soon as the weather admits of uncovering, take 
 them out; cut the old roots back with a sharp knife 
 or shears, straight across the bottom of the ball, that 
 it may go into a smaller pot or tub. Moreover, this 
 cutting makes them throw out fresh young roots, 
 which have more vigor and strength to sustain the 
 tops. After cutting, if your plants occupy more 
 space than you like, they may be again reduced into 
 still smaller ones, by simply dividing the roots. 
 
 When you have them small enough to suit you, 
 pot them in fresh rich soil; water them moderately; 
 and, if there is no danger of frost, you may leave 
 them outside. The embyro buds, which formed the 
 previous summer, and have been lying dormant all 
 through the winter, will soon begin to swell; and in 
 a very little while will reclothe your plants in all their 
 pristine beauty. 
 
 Should you want any of them in your house before 
 
Hydrangeas 
 
 155 
 
 spring, you can take one or more as you need them, 
 treat exactly as I have described, and bring- them 
 into the heat where they will soon develop ; only be 
 careful to cover up well those you leave in the 
 trench. 
 
 If they have rested — say during November, De- 
 cember and January — they will be quite willing and 
 ready to begin business again in February. 
 
 From the various methods here suggested, I think 
 that, if you are a lover of flowers, you should be 
 able to succeed with and preserve these beautiful 
 plants; and, if multiplying faster than you desire 
 they become too numerous, you can always present 
 them to a neighbor with a little lecture upon how to 
 take care of them. 
 
 Hydrangea Hortensis, the common garden species, 
 and most of its varieties, are apt to have sterile 
 flowers ; and, therefore, on account of their enlarged 
 bloom, they are in greatest demand. They are 
 nearly all hardy, and can be planted outside and kept 
 there throughout the year, if given a little protection 
 in winter. 
 
 A good way is to take both heads out of a barrel, 
 and place it firmly over your plant just before hard, 
 or black frost, as the farmers call it. Fill up the 
 barrel with leaves, salt hay, or anything of the kind, 
 to keep out frost; but do not make the plants too 
 warm. Bank earth outside against the bottom of 
 the barrel to keep it from blowing over; and they 
 will be all right. This is for the hardy ones. The 
 other directions were for tender species, like Otaksa. 
 
 Hydrangea Hortensis Japonica is the blue variety, 
 which, like many others, is intensified in color by the 
 character of the soil in which it is erown. In some 
 
156 Hydrangeas 
 
 soils it is very pale, going back to almost pure 
 white, while again in others it is a deep blue. This 
 blue can be made deeper by the use of various chemi- 
 cals, dissolved in the water you use on the roots. 
 A small quantity of iron mixed in the soil is said to 
 have the desired effect. For this I am not an author- 
 ity, never having tried it myself, but no doubt it is a 
 fact. 
 
 Hydrangea Hortensis Otaksa is the lovely pink vari- 
 ety which is so much used. Some say that these 
 plants are hardy, while others declare that they are 
 tender. In any event, I think it best to be on the 
 safe side, and therefore never trust mine out unless 
 I am sure there will be no frost or danger of their 
 freezing. 
 
 Thomas Hogg is a beautiful pure white species that 
 I have found perfectly hardy, having a large bush 
 which has been out in the ground for several years. 
 
 Hydrangea Paniculata Grandiflora is a thoroughly 
 hardy beautiful shrub, which can be grown only out- 
 of-doors. It becomes a very large bush, five or six 
 feet high, covered from August until frost with 
 dense panicles of pure white flowers that change to 
 a reddish pink as the season advances. If the flowers 
 are cut just before they turn, they will keep in the 
 house in vases, and look quite fresh nearly all winter. 
 
 Hydrangea Quercifolia (Oak-leaved) is a very pretty 
 variety, with white flowers also, but tender, being 
 only half hardy. 
 
 There are other kinds, with the treatment of wnich 
 I am not familiar, such as: 
 
 Hydrangea Scandens, a climbing species, 
 
 Hydrangea Petiolaris 
 
Jasminiim 157 
 
 All of the genus want quantities of water, and 
 very rich soil; they are greatly benefited by manure 
 water when blooming. Also top-dress or fork in old 
 manure in your soil. 
 
 JASMINUM 
 
 On account of their lovely flowers, and the deli- 
 cious perfume given out by most of them, Jasmi- 
 nums are popular plants and well known. They grow 
 luxuriantly and are hardy all over the South ; but in 
 the North I know of only one varitey, Nudiflorum, 
 that will stand the winter out-of-doors; and this I 
 have always heavily mulched with leaves and manure 
 to prevent freezing. Jasminums are a large genus, 
 and many of them make desirable house plants, 
 staying out all summer, and being brought in before 
 frost. Most of them are twiners, and can be trained 
 into any desired shape; others are shrubby. 
 
 Jasminutn Gracillimum, a small-growing stove plant 
 with large white flowers, is a good winter-flowering 
 species, thriving in pot or hanging basket in a warm 
 room. 
 
 Jasminutn Nudiflorum is a hardy, rapid climber, 
 with yellow flowers; it, also, does well in the house. 
 
 Jasmlnum Revolutum, a greenhouse variety, bright 
 yellow and very fragrant, is a hardy evergreen climb- 
 ing shrub. 
 
 Jasminum Floridum, from Japan and China, is a 
 hardy ornamental shrub with yellow flowers. 
 
 Jasminum Fruticans is said to be a hardy evergreen 
 shrub. I have never tried it. 
 
 Jasminum Grandiflorum, of which I am especially 
 fond, is a greenhouse bush with white flowers. Its 
 bloom is larger than that of the rest of the species. 
 
158 Olea 
 
 They will all do well in a good compost, and with 
 not too much water in winter; but you must keep 
 them clean. Sprinkling or dipping does them good. 
 
 OLEA 
 
 Olea Fragrans is a handsome shrub, filling the 
 house with its fragrance when in bloom. It is easy 
 to cultivate, and you will prize it more and more 
 each year. It grows slowly like most hard-wooded 
 plants. The foliage is thick and glossy. 
 
 Plunge Olea Fragrans where it will get the full 
 benefit of the summer sun. Syringe and water it 
 freely; give it a well drained rich loam, with occa- 
 sional doses of manure water, and it will surprise 
 you with its beauty. In the house, water this plant 
 very moderately during November, December and 
 January. If its leaves begin to turn yellow, and 
 drop off one by one, simply let it alone, by withhold- 
 ing water while it rests. In a little while it will perk 
 up, as we human beings do after a good rest; sud- 
 denly it will begin to grow again ; and soon your whole 
 house will be flooded with the most delicious odor. 
 At all times you must keep the leaves clean; use as 
 small a pot as possible ; and never cease to watch out 
 for its mortal foe, the invincible Scale. 
 
 Olea was the old Latin name for the Olive. The 
 members of the family, natives of various tropical 
 countries, are quite numerous. Olea Fragrans is 
 a synonym of Osmanthus Fragrans; you will fre- 
 quently find it classified under both names, Olea and 
 Osmanthus. It is exceedingly beautiful, and nearly 
 hardy. I have never grown a plant that has given 
 less trouble and more pleasure. 
 
Oleander 159 
 
 OLEANDER 
 
 Nerium Oleander. A good plant when well grown. 
 Oleanders must be freely exposed to sun and air 
 during the spring and summer when they are making 
 their growth, as the flowers that come later are pro- 
 duced only on well ripened shoots. After flowering, 
 withhold water for a while to allow them to rest ; 
 then cut them back that they may make new growth 
 before winter. When in bloom, they cannot get too 
 much water; and they revel in a very rich soil, about 
 equal portions of loam and well rotted manure. They 
 give some trouble in the house on account of being 
 subject to several insect pests, particularly Red 
 Spider, which you cannot see with the naked eye. 
 Mealy Bug and Scale. The only remedies are fre- 
 quent sponging, and, if the despoilers are very bad, 
 whale oil soap. Or you can put the plants away 
 where they will not freeze, keep them dry and allow 
 them to rest. 
 
 Neriums, or Oleanders, come in red, pink, yellow 
 and white. 
 
 Many people think of an Oleander as somehow 
 connected with a German beer saloon. But if they 
 could see them, as I have, trained like small trees 
 with a large head literally covered with a lovely 
 mass of bloom, they would soon change their opinion 
 of the plant. To fully realize their beauty one 
 should see them in the South, where they are used 
 for shade trees, as we do Maples, to line the side- 
 walks. They are easily increased. Cuttings from 
 matured new wood, will readily root in earth, or in 
 bottles of water hung in the sun; they can be potted 
 afterwards. 
 
ir«0 Oranges 
 
 ORANGES 
 
 Otaheite Orange. These beautiful dwarfs are quite 
 hardy, growing on with little care from year to year, a 
 constant source of delight. They want a good loam, 
 mixed with well rotted manure and sand, or crushed 
 charcoal, to make it porous, that it may drain read- 
 ily. Pots should not be too large ; and be sure that 
 the drainage is good; but never let them get entirely 
 dry at the roots. During the three winter months 
 they will want rest, and will not require so much 
 water. About February they will begin to grow 
 again, and will need plenty of water, with occasional 
 doses of liquid manure. At all times watch for bugs, 
 these plants being greatly troubled with wScale, 
 Mealy Bug and Red Spider. But keep the leaves 
 clean, and you will get rid of the pests. 
 
 In the spring, sink them in a warm place where 
 they will get the full benefit of the sun. Mulch the 
 pot well with old manure; and let them be syringed, 
 and thoroughly soaked with w^ater every day, when 
 the sun is down, but never when it is shining on 
 them. I have one, about two feet high, that for sev- 
 eral months was a mass of flowers and green fruit, 
 having begun to bloom in the latter part of last Feb- 
 ruary. It stayed out all summer ; was taken in in the 
 fall; and has ripened its fruit during the winter, bear- 
 ing as many as twenty-four lovely little golden balls 
 at this time. It will have blossoms, green fruit, and 
 ripe fruit on together; and while the fruit is of poor 
 flavor, the whole plant is beautiful to look at, and 
 exceedingly decorative. 
 
 As w^as said in regard to Pandanus, should its leaves 
 turn yellow and begin to fall, you may know that it 
 is getting too vmcJi^ or not enough water; or that it 
 
Oranges 
 
 161 
 
 is infested by one, or all of its enemies. Do not 
 change pots nntil the plant is absolutely pot-bound; 
 and that condition can be deferred by dig-ginof out 
 some of the old soil carefully, so as not to disturb the 
 roots, and filling up with fresh rich loam. 
 
 
 M 
 
 ^a^^$^^^^K^^^^3i 
 
 w 
 
 OT^HElM 
 
 of^jfe 
 
 If you will char a few bones, crush them and mix 
 with the soil, your plants will greatly appreciate the 
 attention, and repay you with increased florescence 
 that will fill your house with fragrance. A judicious 
 cutting or pinching of the points, will make the heads 
 thicken and keep the plants in good shape; but do 
 
1^2 Oranges 
 
 this before they begin to bloom. If, however, no 
 training is attempted and a free growth allowed, they 
 will have a better chance to develop their natural 
 habits. 
 
 As pot plants they leave nothing to be desired; 
 they are, moreover, growing in favor as a table deco- 
 ration, for which they appear to be well suited, on 
 account of their beauty when covered with bloom, or 
 ripened fruit, and of their dwarf habit. Mine were 
 only about five inches high when I received them, 
 and even then were in bloom; so there is no long 
 tedious waiting for them to reach maturity and give 
 us pleasure. Another good thing about them is that 
 the fruit remains on the plant for months after 
 ripening. 
 
 There are other Oranges which are said to be more 
 desirable, of which I have had as yet no 'personal ex- 
 perience ; but I intend to try them this coming sea- 
 son. They are pronounced exquisite in flavor, and 
 very prolific. 
 
 Satsuma, some florists claim, is the best Orange for 
 pot culture. It produces delicious fruit even when 
 quite small; and is of very dwarf habit, occupying 
 but little space. Its fruiting capacity is said to be 
 perfectly wonderful. 
 
 Citrus Japonica, or Kumquat, is another pretty 
 Japanese Orange. The fruit is very small and is eaten 
 without peeling. The rind is aromatic, the pulp acid. 
 Being a dwarf growth, with glossy leaves and quan- 
 tities of flowers and fruit, it is excellent for room 
 decoration. It should be kept rather dry in winter. 
 
 These two with Otaheite ought to fill your house 
 the whole year with the delig-htful odor of Orange 
 
Oranges 163 
 
 blossoms, of which one is apt never to tire. Then, 
 if taken care of, they can be handed down as heir- 
 looms, for Oranges live to be very old. It is declared 
 that in Cordova there are Orange trees six or seven 
 hundred years of age, and still alive. 
 
 Besides the Orange tree, there are other fruits, 
 which, if you are fortunate in your care of them, can 
 be grown in pots, or tubs — for in time they outgrow 
 pots of ordinary size — notably the Lemon and Fig. 
 
 The Japanese, with their wonderful art of stunting 
 nature — which I hope to discover some day — had on 
 exhibition in San Francisco some lovely miniature 
 Apple and Cherry trees in full bloom. You can 
 imagine how interesting and beautiful either would 
 look as the central ornament of a dinner table. 
 
 I do not know why our florists have never tried this 
 dwarfing; but I have not met with one who had any 
 idea of how it was accomplished, until recently when 
 I was discussing the subject with an intelligent man. 
 He informed me that he was assured it was done by 
 "root pruning and keeping them pot-bound." He 
 said that he had frequently potted and grown Peaches 
 which he had kept quite small by simply turning 
 them out without disturbing or breaking the ball of 
 earth, slicing this with some sharp instrument right 
 across the bottom, as one would a loaf of bread ; and 
 then repotting. They would soon throw out new 
 fibrous roots from the cuts on the old root, and go on 
 growing, thriving and bearing fruit. It must be vei y 
 interesting; and now, having this small idea to work 
 on, I think I shall begin to experiment with some 
 fruit like the Peach or Cherry, as young trees can be 
 bought cheaply, and if I do not succeed it will be no 
 great loss. 
 
164 Roses 
 
 ROSES 
 
 It is not a matter of surprise that the Rose should 
 be termed the Queen of flowers. Through past ages, 
 even to the remote days of the gods, it has reigned 
 triumphant, and though the earth teems with innu- 
 merable, varied, and beautiful bloom that excites the 
 admiration, yet all yield the palm to the Rose, and 
 none dispute her sway. 
 
 Roses hold a prominent place in the world from a 
 commercial point of view, and from their adaptability 
 for all decorative purposes. In floral exhibits they 
 generally take the lead; while for cut flowers they 
 are unequaled. Their floriferous habit makes them 
 respond generously to even mediocre cultivation, but 
 when properly cared for they astonish us with the 
 lavishness and gorgeousness of their bloom. In the 
 sunny South, Roses run riot during the greater part 
 of the year; in fact, I have seen them blooming out- 
 side at Christmas. There we have them to perfec- 
 tion and in profusion with but little labor; but here 
 in the North it is a different story. Only certain 
 varieties thrive outside, and even tliey are better for 
 protection. 
 
 The Hybrid Perpetuals, an important branch of 
 this enormous genus or order, are the kind planted 
 out-of-doors. They are supposed to be perfectly 
 hardy, and as a rule are so ; but I find that a mulch- 
 ing, one foot or more thick, of leaves, or manure, or 
 both, extending a couple of feet around the roots, 
 put on in the fall, and forked in carefully — not so as 
 to injure the roots — in the spring, does them a world 
 of good. They emerge from the rigors of winter 
 much stronger-looking, coming out of their long 
 sleep with a brightness that seems to be almost smil- 
 
Roses 
 
 165 
 
 ing tip at one in thankfulness for keeping them so 
 warm and comfortable, during the long, cold days 
 that have flown. 
 
 There are various opinions in regard to the advisa- 
 bility of attempting to grow Roses of any kind in a 
 dwelling-house. Some assert most 
 emphatically that it is impossible. 
 Others again declare that there is 
 nothing easier, and that their effort 
 was crowned with unparalleled 
 success. 
 
 Amidst such a mass of 
 conflicting evidence, I 
 know of but one 
 way of arriving 
 at a defi- 
 nite con- ,,:>\\Vni 
 elusion; 
 and that 
 is to make 
 the at- 
 tempt 
 
 one's self before 
 agreeing with either side. 
 
 There are a great many 
 reasons why Roses may not be grown 
 in the house; and yet I have repeat- 
 edly seen them flourishing under 
 what most people would call very adverse cir- 
 cumstances. The principal difficulties one has 
 to contend with are insects, induced by the warm, 
 dry atmosphere; and an insufficiency of air. They 
 need air, yet it must never be allowed to blow 
 upon, and chill them, as that will cause mildew 
 
166 Roses 
 
 To avoid this be sure never to let currents of cold 
 air strike them. 
 
 The following method of treating Roses should 
 bring positive results in the v^ay of bloom; but it 
 can be carried out only with Hybrid Perpetuals: — 
 Have them in pots of rich soil; sink to the rim in the 
 ground during the summer season ; and cover the pots 
 well in the fall, just before frost, with leaves and 
 manure, putting the manure on top of the leaves to 
 prevent them from blowing away, and also to keep 
 the plants warm without burning or scalding them, 
 as it would do if it came in direct contact with the 
 stems. Let this mulch be quite heavy to prevent the 
 ground from freezing about them, as that would 
 crack your pots. 
 
 Should you have a cold frame, or pit, this would 
 be the place for them; but wherever they are, the 
 air must have free access. 
 
 Either of the above methods, the cold frame or 
 leaf and manure covering, will keep the Roses 
 dormant until you are ready for them. As soon as 
 you see signs of the leaf buds swelling, or sooner if 
 you w^ant any of the plants, bring them inside to a 
 warm atmosphere; and they should presently come 
 into full leaf and flower. When they are blooming 
 do not keep them too warm ; and give moderately 
 strong manure water once a week. 
 
 Guard against bugs. Sulpho-Tobacco soap is 
 recommended for destroying the Aphides that may 
 infest them ; but I have never used it. Syringe 
 with clear water as often as possible. That keeps 
 the pests down. 
 
 Several important points are yet to be mentioned. 
 
 If you wish to force your Roses, it is better to have 
 
looses 
 
 167 
 
 them on their own roots than grafted on Manetti, 
 or Briar stock. Pot them in a rich compost with 
 considerable well rotted manure in it, cow manure 
 if possible; and be sure to prune them closely down 
 to six or eight eyes, first in the early spring, taking 
 out all the weakly or crooked shoots to give room 
 
 and air to the strong ones ; then again cut them 
 sharply back after they have flowered in June; 
 cover them as suggested, in the fall; and take into 
 heat one or more at a time, as you wish. 
 
 The short pruning is necessary to prevent the 
 tops from getting too large for their limited quarters. 
 Such pruning will give you more bloom, as the 
 
168 Roses 
 
 flowers come on the new wood, and each individual 
 Rose will be larger if there are not too many shoots 
 to be supported and nourished by the small supply 
 of earth. 
 
 When your plants are well established there is no 
 need of repotting each year. If they are not allowed 
 to become pot-botmd and have healthy roots, they 
 may get along with a rich soil worked in as a top- 
 dressing, and by being given liqnid manure when 
 blooming; for Roses are quite ravenous, and like 
 very rich food. 
 
 If you can bring them into about fifty degrees of 
 heat at first, and gradually increase it to about sixty- 
 five, with plenty of air on all fine or mild days, they 
 should soon come into bloom. Keep them clean, and 
 syringe them daily where convenient, or possible, 
 until the flowers appear; then they will want the 
 coolest position in the house with an ample supply 
 of air; but let no cold draught blow upon them. 
 
 When they have finished blooming, they may be 
 put outside again to go through the same process 
 for another year, being kept watered and kept grow- 
 ing to mature the wood for the next season. 
 
 This treatment will not do for Tea Roses; they 
 are tender and will not live outside except in mid- 
 summer. If you have a pit or frame you can keep 
 them nicely, and bring them into heat when needed. 
 This should not be done unnecessarily. I have seen 
 them kept in a cool dark cellar with good results. 
 
 To grow Roses out-of-doors is another matter. 
 The Hybrids need a good sunny location on well 
 drained ground, preferring a rather heavy loam, one 
 clayey rather than sandy; and, as I have said before, 
 they do better with protection in winter. 
 
Roses 
 
 169 
 
 Some varieties of Teas, or monthly bloomers, will 
 thrive outside in smnmer. If, however, they get 
 the entire strength of the sun all day, they are apt 
 to become bleached out and to look somewhat like a 
 faded blonde. But 
 they are so lovely, 
 and well worth a lit- 
 tle extra care, that, 
 if you have no shaded 
 spot, you should im- 
 provise one to keep 
 the midday sun from 
 them. You may thus 
 have bloom nearly 
 every month. 
 
 Take these Roses 
 up in the fall. If not 
 in pots, pack them 
 closely in boxes of 
 earth, and put them 
 away in some cool 
 dark place where 
 they will not freeze. 
 
 In the early spring 
 they will be ready 
 again for work. 
 
 There are a good 
 many things to guard 
 against in the culti- 
 vation of Roses. Out- 
 of-doors they may be readily cared for and pro- 
 tected; but inside, the liability of insect attack 
 is a nuisance. If I were to mention only a 
 few of their foes, or the ills to which, like 
 
170 Roses 
 
 poor humanity, they are heirs, you might be so 
 alarmed that yoti would never attempt the growing 
 of a single bush. But, while the name of tliese 
 troubles is legion, you will probably never come in 
 contact with any, excepting those of which I have 
 already given warning: 3^ou may, therefore, make 
 your venture without hesitation, as with a little pre- 
 caution and some perseverance you should undoubt- 
 edly succeed. 
 
 The genus Rose is almost innumerable, and is 
 being constantly added to by the raising of new vari- 
 eties from seed, or by hybridizing; and to this last 
 method we are indebted for many beautiful and 
 greatly improved species. 
 
 The hybridization of Perpetuals with Teas, and 
 other members of the genus, has given us such fine 
 Roses as: 
 
 La France American Beauty 
 
 Duchess of Albany Meteor 
 
 riadame Caroline Testout Dinsmore 
 
 And many others. 
 
 These are all strong growers, hardy, free bloomers, 
 with beautiful coloring; and they are very fragrant. 
 
 The Teas I should not advise you to try. 
 
 Among Perpetuals the list is almost endless, and 
 it is difficult to select, but I will mention a few that 
 I think simply perfect : 
 
 General Jacqueminot Baroness Rothschild 
 
 Ulrich Brunner Anna de Diesbach 
 
 Mrs. John Laing Paul Neyron 
 
 riagna Charta John Hopper 
 
 Prince Camille de Rohan Boule de Neige (^Baii of 5now) 
 
CHAPTER IX 
 
 VINES, CREEPERS AND BASKET 
 PLANTS 
 
 Clematis 
 
 Ivy 
 
 Lysimachia 
 
 Manettia 
 Miniuliis 
 Othonna 
 
 Solaniun 
 Tradescantia 
 Vinca 
 
 CLEMATIS 
 
 HIS is a beautiful vine for outdoor decora- 
 tion; and indoors the conservatory sorts 
 can be potted and grown in a temperature 
 of from forty to fifty degrees. Their cul- 
 ture is the same as that of the hardy ones. They 
 like a rich loamy soil, with a good share of manure, 
 and enjoy liquid manure also; this helps them when 
 flowering to produce more numerous and richer 
 bloom. 
 
 A pretty way to grow them outside, is to firmly 
 insert three tall stakes, triangularly, in good rich 
 ground, fastening the tops securely together with 
 wire, for the plants to run on; then put one or two 
 of the vines at the foot of each stake. It is well to 
 use contrasting colors. They will soon climb up, 
 with a little assistance at first in the way of tying, to 
 
 show them how they should 
 
 Keep the soil rich 
 
172 
 
 Clematis 
 
 by mulching with old manure; water them freely; 
 and you will presently rejoice over the beautiful 
 results obtained. 
 
 There are many other ingenious methods of grow- 
 ing vines; but I must not deprive you of the joy of 
 discovery, and shall leave you to invent some for 
 yourself. 
 
 The common name for Clematis is Virgin's Bower. 
 
 CLEMATIS 
 
 Clematis Lanuginosa is said to be the best for run- 
 ning on trelHses or verandas; if well fed it will 
 rapidly cover a large space, and be weighted down 
 with quantities of bloom. This type does not re- 
 quire much cutting back; only the dead wood should 
 be cut out. Any more severe trimming tends to 
 weaken the plant by stopping its growth, and gives 
 
J vy 173 
 
 you fewer flowers. Its flowers are formed on the 
 new wood made each season. 
 
 Clematis Jackmanni, a fine variety, has a thickly 
 massed bloom which continues for quite a while. It 
 was produced by the successful efforts at hybridiza- 
 tion of Mr. George Jackmann, of Woking-, in Surrey, 
 England. Many other hybridizers have supplied us 
 with a large number of beautiful specimens. 
 
 The following are all good and will give satis- 
 faction : 
 
 Duchess of Edinburgh, a fine large double white, 
 Henryi, a quick grower. 
 
 Clematis Coccinea (scarlet), a slender graceful species, 
 Clematis Fortunei, a fragrant white, 
 Clematis Vitalba 
 Clematis Viticella 
 
 There are also non-climbing bushy specimens, 
 among which we find 
 
 Clematis Davideana, a pretty blue. 
 
 IVY 
 
 Hedera was the old Latin name, used by Ovid, 
 Pliny, Virgil and Horace, for our well known Ivy. 
 It is one of the most useful of vines or climbing 
 shrubs for covering unsightly places. It will stand 
 considerable ill usage, but is better pleased with a 
 favorable position and some attention. 
 
 Ivy does best in a very rich soil; and given an 
 abundance of water it will grow rapidly. It can be 
 grown in well drained pots, and trained on a small cir- 
 cular or flat trellis in the house, where it does re- 
 markably well, if guarded from Scale Bug. While 
 it is perfectly hardy outside, I nevertheless always 
 
174 Ivysimactiia 
 
 cover the roots at least a foot deep with leaves and 
 manure in the fall before the ground freezes; and 
 the vine comes out beautifully in the spring. 
 
 Hedera Helix Canariensis. Irish Ivy, known in nur- 
 series as Hedera Helix Arborescens, is the best for 
 walls, and under trees. It is grown everywhere, 
 both indoors and outside. If kept clean by frequent 
 washing of the leaves, well watered, and if the pots 
 are given good drainage, it will surprise you with its 
 rapid growth. 
 
 German Ivy, also known as Parlor Ivy, is a lighter 
 green, smaller-leaved variety, free, vigorous, and 
 fine for baskets. 
 
 English Ivy, the well known favorite, can be used 
 for many purposes, its rich dark green foliage look- 
 ing handsome anywhere. This vine may be em- 
 ployed with good effect for table decoration in win- 
 ter when flowers are scarce, and there are few places 
 where you will not find it useful. 
 
 LYSIMACHIA 
 
 Lysimachia Nummularia, Loosestrife, Moneywort, or 
 Creeping Charlie as it is generally termed, was ap- 
 preciated even by the Greeks, being known to them 
 under the name of LusimacJiion. It belongs to an 
 extensive genus, all of the easiest culture, liking 
 moisture, and readily increased by division. 
 
 This is a handsome plant for baskets; it soon covers 
 the bottom from view if left to itself, but will make 
 a dense mat in a short time if you keep pinching off 
 the terminal shoots. It is excellent for shady spots 
 where nothing else will thrive, and if given quantities 
 of water it will rapidly spread over the ground under 
 
Nlanettia 175 
 
 trees where grass will not grow. The flowers are 
 inconspicuous but pretty, being a bright yellow; they 
 look exceedingly well with other plants. 
 
 The following Lysimachias are all hardy peren- 
 nials: 
 
 Lysimachia Atropurpurea, from Southern Europe, 
 synonymous with Lubinia Atropurpurea, is an erect 
 species with very dark purple flowers in drooping 
 racemes. 
 
 Then we have the following, which are all erect 
 plants from two to three feet high: 
 
 Lysimachia Ciliata, light yellow 
 
 Lysimacliia Clethroides, white 
 
 Lysimacliia Lanceolata, yellow 
 
 Lysimacliia Vulgaris, common Yellow Loosestrife. 
 
 Among them all my preference is for Nummularia, 
 and I think you will find it the most useful and adapt- 
 able of the family for a variety of purposes and 
 places.- 
 
 MANETTIA 
 
 If you like a pretty vine that can be trained in any 
 way to suit your fancy, get a Manettia. The climbers 
 included under this name come mostly from sub- 
 tropical Australia, and the warm portions of our own 
 country. They are of easy culture, very graceful, 
 and lovely when covered with hundreds of their 
 brilliant little blossoms, especially so on a gloomy 
 winter day. There are about thirty of the species, 
 most of them ornamental. Some are evergreen, 
 others herbaceous. The flowers are white, blue, or 
 red and yellow, funnel-shaped tubes with hairy throats 
 on axillary peduncles. 
 
176 N'lii-iiolus 
 
 These plants like a compost of equal parts of loam, 
 sand, and peat. 
 
 Manettia Micans, from Pern, is a handsome strong 
 grower, and one of the best; but I have never seen 
 it offered by any florist. It is covered with a pro- 
 fusion of rich orange flowers in early winter. 
 
 Manettia Bicolor is a bright scarlet at the lower part 
 of the tube, shading into yellow towards the apex; it 
 blooms about March. 
 
 Manettia Cordifolia is a useful variety with scarlet 
 flowers, blooming through the winter and spring. 
 
 I keep Manettia in pots with wire trellises or mini- 
 ature pillars attached, sinking the pots outside in 
 some shaded position where the vines will not get 
 the full strength of the sun, giving occasional doses 
 of manure water, syringing freely every afternoon, 
 trimming them into shape if they extend beyond 
 their cjuarters, and training as I wish them to grow. 
 
 In the fall they are a lovely sight with their delicate 
 masses of foliage and flowers. They are now ready 
 to be carried within, where, if sprinkled daily and not 
 kept in too dry a heat they will go on growing — that 
 is, the evergreen species will. The herbaceous ones 
 may die down, and have to be put away for another 
 season where they will not freeze, to come out again 
 stronger than ever in the spring. 
 
 They can be increased by cuttings, which will root 
 readily during summer. They are very clean vines. 
 I do not know of any insect that is partial to them, 
 
 my 
 
 vines never haviuir been troubled. 
 
 is 
 
 MIMULUS 
 Mimulus Moschatus — from minio, an ape or actor, 
 and the Low Latin tnoschus, musk — is another lovely 
 
NlimtaltJis 177 
 
 basket plant. It is a little creeping half hardy peren- 
 nial, to which I am very partial, being particularly 
 fond of its delightful fragrance, and its soft, wooly, 
 cool-looking foliage. This is the common Musk 
 Plant. It is not at all difficult to grow, and is propa- 
 gated by division of the roots or by cuttings. 
 
 Mimulus Moschatus likes a good soil, moderately 
 rich, with considerable water, and partial shade. It 
 looks equally well in pots, or baskets. Like Lysi- 
 machia, it also has a small yellow bloom that soon 
 covers the entire plant. It belongs to a genus of 
 some forty members, but this is perhaps the only one 
 which you will need for the house. 
 
 There is a double-tiowering variety of this species 
 that is very fine. 
 
 Mimulus Moschatus Harrisonii is one of the stronger 
 growers, and larger-flowered than other sorts of 
 Mimulus Moschatus, but is seldom offered by 
 florists. 
 
 Mimulus Cardinalis, with red flowers, and growing 
 from one to three feet high, is a hardy perennial 
 found over a large part of the United States and 
 Mexico. 
 
 Mimulus Qlutinosus, with buff or salmon-colored 
 bloom, is an erect, handsome greenhouse shrub, which 
 flowers during nearly the whole year. 
 
 Mimulus Lewisii, rose-colored and erect, is hardy 
 and herbaceous. 
 
 Mimulus Luteus, yellow, commonly called Monkey 
 Flower, is a half hardy annual. 
 
 Mimulus Luteus Cupreus is a pretty species, from 
 which many beautiful hybrids have originated. 
 
 Mimulus Repens, having comparatively large lilac 
 colored flowers, with yellow-spotted throats, is a 
 
178 Otlnon-na— Solanum. 
 
 dwarf greenhouse or half hardy perennial from 
 Australia. 
 
 OTHONNA 
 
 Ragwort. This is a quite numerous genus of nearly 
 hardy greenhouse shrubs or herbs, with inconspicu- 
 ous yellow flower heads; it is of the easiest cultivation, 
 thriving in almost any kind of well drained porous 
 soil. 
 
 Othonna Crassifolia is a very pretty trailer for a bas- 
 ket or vase, doing well outside in summer, and in the 
 house in winter. When it becomes too long it may 
 be cut back freely, as it soon forms new growth ; and 
 these cuttings root readily to make new plants. 
 
 SOLANUM 
 
 Nightshade. Nearly nine hundred of this immense 
 genus have been described, and a special chapter 
 might well be devoted to them. I shall not, however, 
 frighten you by presenting all the enormous family, 
 but shall confine myself to the most interesting and 
 useful members. To begin, I must not slight 
 
 Solanum Tuberosum. This, if not particularly orna- 
 mental, is the most useful member of the group, be- 
 ing our indispensable Potato ; but I shall not enter 
 upon its merits, with which most of us are familiar, 
 as the present article is not on farming, though I 
 could tell you how to grow it successfully, if neces- 
 sary. 
 
 I wish to advocate the claims of several more 
 beautiful members of the family: 
 
 Solanum Jasininoides is a pretty, hardy climber from 
 South America It is a profuse bloomer with bluish- 
 white Jasmine-like flowers. 
 
Solan.\_Ai~t:i 
 
 179 
 
 Solanum Seaforthianum bears in lavish profusion 
 large hanging clusters of lilac-blue flowers. This 
 lovely variety comes from the West Indies; it has 
 ftne-cut foliage, and star-shaped flowers of delicate 
 blue, with golden stamens; the bloom is followed by 
 bright red berries which remain on the plant for 
 
 -VSSP' 
 
 weeks. It is a dainty summer climber, and takes its 
 last name from the discoverer, Seaforth. 
 
 Both of these will do well in the house if given a 
 cool position, all the air possible, and if the foliage is 
 frequently sprinkled. Grown in pots outside in simi- 
 mer and trained on light wire trellises, then, when 
 brought in in the fall, placed near some window, thc}^ 
 make an attractive appearance. They should be cut 
 back sharply in the spring, and any straggling growth 
 should be kept within bounds by the pruning-shears 
 at all times. 
 
180 Solarium 
 
 Solanum Pseudo-Capsicum, Jerusalem Cherry, is one 
 with which many of us are acquainted. The mem- 
 bers of this group are handsome shrubs, and good 
 house plants if properly cared for. When hanging 
 full of their pretty red berries, they make an effective 
 contrast with the green of other plants. They were 
 especial favorites with some of our grandmothers, 
 who appeared to understand the wants of these Sola- 
 nums and to know how to succeed with them. I 
 have vivid recollections of large well shaped plants 
 literally covered with brilliant scarlet or yellow balls, 
 which I was allowed by their proud possessors to 
 gaze at with eager eyes, but never to touch. With 
 change of locality and maturing years I have grad- 
 ually lost sight of them, meeting only a chance speci- 
 men here and there. Their decline in favor is due, 
 possibly, to the dry furnace heat we now employ, 
 making it more difficult to cultivate them in our 
 dwellings. Yet they can be made to thrive in our 
 houses by simply keeping them cool, and giving fre- 
 quent showerings overhead to moisten and cleanse the 
 leaves. A cool window, where they get only the 
 morning sun, will be best for them; and if a little of 
 the outside air creeps in around the sash so much the 
 better. 
 
 Solanums succeed in any rich loamy soil. When 
 headed back in the spring, and trimmed into a neat 
 round shape, they will throw out new wood, and 
 plenty of bloom, to change later on into brilliant 
 berries, which will make your bushes resemble mini- 
 ature Cherry trees. These may be sunken outside in 
 a shaded position during the summer, when they 
 make fine growth. Occasional doses of manure water 
 are beneficial at this time. Turn your pots fre- 
 
Tradescantia 181 
 
 quently to keep the plants from being drawn by the 
 sun. Also watch and see that they do not become 
 pot-bound. Water them freely every day, both over- 
 head and at the roots, as they must not dry out. 
 
 In winter keep them clean ; and water them care- 
 fully, lessening the supply to give them time to rest, 
 yet still not letting them get dry, which would cause 
 them to drop both berries and leaves. If kept cool 
 enough, they will frequently retain the berries from 
 one season until the next crop is coming on. 
 
 There are other edible Solanums besides the 
 Potato, such as : 
 
 Solanum Melongena, our Egg Plant, or the French 
 
 Aubergine. 
 
 Lycopersicum Esculentum, the widely grown and 
 extensively used Tomato, the Love Apple of our 
 fathers, is an honorable member of this order Sola- 
 nacese. 
 
 Some people may not appreciate Solanums on 
 account of the slightly unpleasant odor of their 
 leaves. I admit that this might be an objection 
 were a large number of the plants massed together; 
 but the odor is not to be detected unless the leaves 
 are bruised, and only hypersensitive olfactories could 
 be affected by one or two specimens. At all events, 
 if you can successfully grow them you will soon be- 
 come their champion, and laud the pleasing effect of 
 their brightness among your more sombre greens. 
 
 TRADESCANTIA 
 
 This plant was named after John Tradescant, gar- 
 dener to King Charles I. of England. The common 
 name is Spiderwort. It is a genus of more than 
 
182 Vine a 
 
 thirty greenhouse, or hardy, perennial herbs, indig- 
 enous to North and South America. They are 
 exceedingly easy plants to grow, succeeding in any 
 good soil if kept sufficiently moist; and cuttings from 
 them will root readily at almost any time. 
 
 Wandering Jew is the only name by which many 
 people know several of the species of creeping 
 Tradescantias. These varieties are commonly used 
 in hanging baskets and in vases, which they quickly 
 convert into masses of green, if the vines are kept 
 pinched at the points, and are given an ample supply 
 of water. They are moisture-loving, and will grow 
 even in vessels of water. 
 
 Tradescantia Discolor, an upright-growing species 
 with beautifully marked, lanceolate leaves, often 
 quite purplish beneath, on short, stiff, erect stems, is 
 an exceedingly pretty plant, differing in many ways 
 from the familiar Wandering Jew. It is a stove 
 perennial, but like the common variety does well in 
 the house. While of easy culture, it likes a rich, 
 moist soil. It is readily increased from cuttings. 
 
 VINCA 
 
 Periwinkle. Called Myrtle by most people. This 
 is a genus of very pretty erect or trailing plants, 
 some being hardy, while others are stove or green- 
 house varieties. Hardy Vincas are good trailing 
 plants for many purposes, growing in almost any 
 soil, and when established spreading rapidly. They 
 are readily increased by division of the roots. 
 
 Vinca Rosea, and Vinca Alba, which are sometimes 
 called Madagascar Periwinkle, are among the best 
 of the erect specimens, and are handsome plants 
 
Vine a 183 
 
 when fully developed. If the points are pinched out 
 on young plants that are sufficiently started or es- 
 tablished, they will become bushy, and will have 
 greater blooming surface, as they flower on the new 
 shoots. 
 
 Rosea and Alba are greenhouse plants, and must 
 be taken in before frost. They grow only about a 
 foot or two in height, and have tough stems. A 
 good loam mixed with a little well-rotted manure 
 suits them; and they should be carefully watered in 
 winter. These plants bloom for a long time, and 
 look lovely with their bright rose-colored or white 
 flowers among the more sombre greens, but for some 
 reason they seem to be but little known. 
 
 Vinca Major, and Vinca Minor, the latter of variegated 
 form, are in general use for many purposes, such as 
 vases, hanging baskets, carpeting under trees, or for 
 shady places where grass will not thrive, and to a 
 great extent in cemetery decoration. 
 
CHAPTER X 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS 
 
 Araucaria 
 
 Colocasia 
 
 Cyperus 
 
 NepentJics 
 Pancratiums 
 Philodendron 
 Zamia 
 
 Saiiseviera 
 Saxifraga 
 Selaginellas 
 
 ARAUCARIA 
 
 ROM Araucanos^ the name it bears in 
 Chili. It is a genus of lovely ever- 
 green trees, of a symmetrical habit, 
 and very effective for the house while 
 it remains small enough to be manage- 
 able. This will be for a long time as Araucarias 
 are slow growers. 
 
 These plants do well in fibrous loam mixed with 
 leaf mould and sand. A very moderate amount of 
 water is necessary during winter while they are in 
 the house. They should be kept cool ; much heat 
 will dry up the foliage. Sink them outside in sum- 
 mer, and water well both roots and tops, when the 
 weather is dry. 
 
 Some of the family grow to great heights: 
 
 Araucaria Balansse, of New Caledonia, reaches a 
 hundred and sixty feet in its native climate; 
 
Araucaria 185 
 
 Araucaria Cookii (Cook's) attains a height of two 
 hundred feet, an altitude which would be rather 
 mrgainly in a sitting-room. 
 
 ARAUCARIA 
 
 The latter, Cookii, with the following, are beauti- 
 ful species, easily managed, and very satisfactory : 
 
 Araucaria Excelsa Glauca, ) ^^ r .^ ^ ^ i T^• 
 . ^ . _ . [ Norfolk Island Pmes. 
 Araucaria Excelsa Robusta, ) 
 
 They grow in popularity every year as they become 
 better known, and in my opinion need only an intro- 
 duction to be appreciated. 
 
186 Colocasia 
 
 COLOCASIA 
 
 This is a small genus of herbaceous plants, which 
 have perennial tuberous or creeping roots, or rhizo- 
 mas, as they are botanically termed. A rhizoma, or 
 rhizome, is a creeping stem, branch, or root-stock 
 partly covered by the soil. While the tops die down, 
 the tubers remain with you indefinitely, if taken 
 care of. 
 
 They are grand-looking plants with their enormous, 
 finely marked leaves ; some of them are excellent for 
 tropical gardening outside, and others as specimens 
 in the house. Their culture is identical with that of 
 Caladiums, belonging as they do to the same order, 
 Aroideae. 
 
 Colocasia Esculenta, sometimes called Elephant's 
 Ear, is a well-known member of this family; it is 
 easily grown outside, but not very desirable for 
 window gardening. It should be planted out during 
 the last part of May, or early in June, in a well 
 drained position, and in light rich soil. Keep it sup- 
 plied with sufficient water, and occasionally give 
 liquid manure. At the first appearance of frost, cut 
 off near the ground all the leaves but the middle 
 one. In a few days lift the plant, and expose it to 
 the air to dry; then put it away in some frost-proof 
 room without dampness, perhaps in some dry cellar, 
 until spring. 
 
 There are a number of beautiful Colocasias; they 
 all need careful handling. In order to insure success 
 with them you must bear in mind one thing: that 
 they cannot be changed suddenly from the moist 
 atmosphere of a stove house to the dry heat of a 
 dwelling without danger of their entire loss, or at all 
 events a loss of their leaves. They must be 
 
Oyperias 
 
 187 
 
 " hardened off," as florists say, by a gradual transi- 
 tion, first to a cool house, and then to your dwelling*. 
 If, when the weather is settled in June, you give 
 them a shady outside position, sheltered from strong 
 winds ; and supply quantities of water to both leaves 
 and roots; they will be prepared for going inside in 
 September, before the days become chilly. They 
 should then retain their health and beauty. But if, 
 when you have done all this, they should lose their 
 foliage, store them in a frost-proof place until spring; 
 and carefully water them as gradually they show 
 signs of life, until they are in full leaf once more. 
 
 CYPERUS 
 
 Cyperus Alternifolius. A fine member of a genus 
 of nearly seven hundred rush, or grass-like perennial 
 herbs, and the one most univer- 
 sally grown, on account of its 
 graceful habit and easiness of 
 culture. It throws up numer- 
 ous, dark green, erect stems, 
 crowned with long narrow 
 leaves, arranged in an umbellate 
 manner. It makes a lovely win- 
 dow plant, grown in pots of 
 good loam, sand, and a little 
 peat; it needs quantities of 
 water, being aquatic in its cyperus 
 
 nature. 
 
 These plants are readily increased by division of 
 the roots ; they are quite hardy. Their flowers are 
 inconspicuous. They do well in shady positions, 
 and respond vigorously to a treatment of weak 
 manure water when in active growth; it is well, 
 
188 Nepenthies 
 
 however, during- the dull winter days to allow them 
 a little rest, and not to keep up a forced activity 
 with stimulants. Being naturally faithful workers, 
 they require but little urging. 
 
 The particular species here mentioned g-row from 
 one foot to two and a half feet high. They came 
 originally from Australia. Most florists of the 
 present day class them among Palms, not that they 
 belong to that family, but for convenience, as they 
 are commonly grown in conjunction with Palms for 
 decoration, and are termed by many the Umbrella 
 Palm. 
 
 NEPENTHES 
 
 Pitcher plant. A curious bit of nature, and not 
 difficult to manage. These plants do best in a com- 
 post of two parts peat, and one of sphagnum, in a 
 hanging basket. They require an abundant supply 
 of water in summer, but much less in winter. They 
 must never get dry at the roots. Pitcher Plants 
 like a moist atmosphere if possible. There are a 
 great many varieties, some much more interesting 
 than others; your florist will help you to a decision 
 in selecting. 
 
 Nepenthes Atro=Sanguinea has pitchers of a reddish 
 color spotted with yellow, and is a handsome garden 
 hybrid. 
 
 Nepenthes Phyllamphora, from Borneo, is a very 
 attractive strong growing species. 
 
 Many handsome Nepentheses are to be found in 
 quantities in the swampy lands of New Jersey, and 
 on the surface of certain lakes or ponds overgrown 
 
F*arLcratii_im.s 
 
 189 
 
 with moss in central New York, notably on a small 
 one in Otsego County, called Lake Misery. The 
 
 NEPENTHES 
 
 bogs of Florida teem with numerous varieties which 
 revel in that moist hot atmosphere. 
 
 PANCRATIUMS 
 
 A small genus of pretty bulbous plants, natives of 
 tropical countries like the West Indies, and also of 
 the Canary Islands, and lands bordering on the 
 Mediterranean. They are easily grown, in a com- 
 
190 P*a.ncratii_ims 
 
 post of two parts loam to one of peat, and one of 
 well rotted leaf mould, with some silver sand added. 
 The rule is to water them freely when growing-, but 
 to give less when they are resting. Do not, however, 
 let them get dry enough to droop. 
 
 They do not like to be disturbed ; the less chang- 
 ing of pots the better, if the plants remain healthy. 
 
 PANCRATIUM 
 
 When it is absolutely necessary to shift them, be 
 very careful to preserve all the living roots, and cut 
 out any old dead ones. They should make rapid 
 growth, and to do so they need a generous supply of 
 food or nourishment. They can be planted outside 
 in summer, taken up in the fall, and stored away ; or 
 they can be kept in pots all the while, and will grow 
 on during the winter in a window where they get 
 plenty of light. Their flowers are pure white, freely 
 produced in large umbels, and are very fragrant. 
 
PHilodendron 191 
 
 Pancratium Maritimum is said to be hardy in mild 
 climates; but I never trust any of mine to the tender 
 mercies of our Northern winters, feeling more at 
 ease in regard to their welfare when I see them safely 
 reposing in some pleasant window. 
 
 Pancratium Illyricum is the only really hardy variety. 
 
 PHILODENDRON 
 
 Yrora phileo^ to love, and dcndron^ a tree. An ex- 
 tensive genus of over a hundred climbing shrubs and 
 small trees with spathaceous flowers, white, red, or 
 yellow. The foliage is very handsome and varies 
 greatly, all of the numerous species having individual 
 peculiarities. 
 
 Philodendrons are not difficult to grow. Some 
 people may tell you that the}^ will not live outside of 
 a greenhouse; but I know that they will for me. 
 And why sould they not for others as well? They 
 are not exacting; but I should advise you to give 
 them a rich friable compost, or leaf mould, if you can. 
 The latter is always to be found in the woods, and if 
 any are near at hand there is no trouble in securing 
 it. Be sure that 3'ou mix enough coarse sand with 
 whatever you use, to let the water pass through 
 freely; the soil must not become sour or sodden. 
 
 These plants require an ample supply of water, 
 and repeated syringing. During the summer or 
 growing season, they will want all the atmospheric 
 moisture you can give them, with just enough shade 
 to keep the leaves from scorching. They rest in 
 winter: therefore in this season they must be kept 
 moist only, to prevent drying up, nntil they begin 
 groH'th again. 
 
 Should they become tuo large for your purposes, 
 
19^ Sanseviera 
 
 yoti can cut off the tops, and root them during the 
 heat of summer to make new plants. 
 
 They are such a large family, and all so handsome, 
 that a particular selection is difficult. 
 
 Philodendron Erubescens is a beautiful climbing 
 species, having a stout stem that roots at nearly every 
 joint. 
 
 Philodendron Mamei (Mons. Mame's) is a fine-leaved 
 herb handsomely marked with white. 
 
 Philodendron Fragrantissimum has a cream colored 
 spathe with the base swollen and red. Its perfume 
 is very strong and lasting. It should bloom about 
 January. This variety comes from Demerara, and 
 is often called Caladium Fragrantissimum 
 
 Philodendron Gloriosum, from Columbia, South 
 America, is a superb foliage plant of climbing habit. 
 
 Philodendron Melanochrysum, also of climbing habit, 
 is so lovely that words cannot do it justice. It is of 
 slow or medium growth. 
 
 Philodendron Verrucosum (Warted), synonymous 
 with Philodendron Carderi, and Philodendron Dagu- 
 ense, is to my mind one of the most beautiful and 
 brilliant of this family, which are all worthy of men- 
 tion. It needs only to be seen to be highly appreci- 
 ated. 
 
 SANSEVIERA 
 
 Bowstring Hemp. Named in honor of Raimond 
 de Sansgrio, Prince of Sanseviero. These plants are 
 a small genus of herbaceous perennials from South 
 Africa and the East Indies. They give little trouble, 
 and do well in the house, adding a pleasing variety 
 to one's collection. 
 
 They like a sandy loam ; and in winter, while rest- 
 
Saxifraga 1&3 
 
 ing, require scarcely any water, just enough to keep 
 them from drying up. Should you wish more than 
 one specimen, you will find that they are readily 
 propagated by suckers. They may go outside in 
 summer. 
 
 Sansevieras are not particularly beautiful, but they 
 are odd-looking and worthy of a place if you have 
 room for them. 
 
 Sanseviera Cylindrica, from South -Africa, has thick 
 rigid leaves measuring from three to four feet in 
 length. 
 
 Then there are the following: 
 
 Sanseviera Guineensis, from Guinea; 
 
 Sanseviera Longiflora, long-flowered, with leaves 
 half erect and white-spotted; 
 
 Sanseviera Zeylanica, from the East Indies. Also 
 the garden forms of this last species. 
 
 SAXIFRAGA 
 
 This is a lovely genus of mostly hardy, perennial 
 plants. They are nearly all attractive, being ex- 
 cellent for ferneries, jardinieres and baskets — in 
 fact, effective everywhere. They are the easiest 
 things to grow, requiring simply an open soil and a 
 moderate amount of water. 
 
 Saxifraga Sarmentosa Tricolor, called by a variety 
 of other names, most of us will recognize under 
 some one of these: Creeping Sailor, Mother of 
 Thousands, Beefsteak Plant, or Strawberry Ger- 
 anium; but under any name it will be as pretty. 
 
 Saxifraga Virginiensis Flore-pleno is a good garden 
 variety with pretty, white double flowers. 
 
194 Selaginellas 
 
 The following are all excellent: 
 
 Saxifraga Purpurascens, large-leaved, purple; 
 
 Saxifraga Peltata, Umbrella Plant, pale pink, or 
 white ; 
 
 Saxifraga Longifolia ; 
 
 Saxifraga Qeranioides (Geranium-like); 
 
 Saxifraga Crassifolia, thick-leaved, with large red 
 flowers ; 
 
 Saxifraga Cotyledon, with white flowers. 
 
 The following are strong robust forms of the last- 
 named species, Saxifraga Cotyledon : 
 
 Saxifraga Nepalensis, common in gardens; 
 
 Saxifraga Pyramidalis. 
 
 If none of these give satisfaction and you wish for 
 others, you must seek information concerning them 
 from your florist, as the family is too large for me 
 to undertake to describe them all here. 
 
 SELAGINELLAS 
 
 These are an enormous genus of over three hun- 
 dred species, looking very much like Club Mosses, 
 and often called by that name. They require a 
 treatment similar to that of Ferns, and will thrive 
 where the latter will. They grow well in any light 
 soil, made porous by any intermixture of sand or 
 charcoal. Selaginellas must be kept moist at all 
 times, and in the shade. They are easily increased 
 by cuttings, as they throw out roots at nearly every 
 joint. 
 
 Selaginella Kraussiana is the Lycopod used for 
 edging pots and growing in fancy shapes for table 
 decoration, and other purposes;. 
 
Zamia. 195 
 
 The Lycopodiums are the real Club Mosses, btit 
 closely related to Selaginellas, and are also a large 
 genus of lovely and easily grown plants. 
 
 ZAMIA 
 
 A genus resembling Palms, coming from tropical 
 America and the West Indies. They belong to the 
 order Cycadacese, and are mostly handsome green- 
 house perennials. 
 
 Zamias should be potted in a mixture of equal 
 parts of good soil and peat, with some silver sand 
 added. They must be given plenty of water through 
 the summer, and be shaded from the full heat of the 
 sun. 
 
 In winter they require to be kept in a temperature 
 of not less than sixty degrees. They will not need 
 much water; the quantity must be regulated by the 
 heat of your room. Should they grow sickly-looking, 
 shake off all the loose soil you can ; put the ball 
 of roots into a pail of warm water, and let it 
 remain until well washed; cut out any broken or 
 decayed parts ; and then repot them carefully with 
 fresh earth. Keep the plants warm, and water them 
 with the greatest care until they begin a new 
 growth. 
 
 Zamia Furfuracea, from Mexico, is a handsome 
 species with a cylindrical trunk. 
 
 Zamia Integrifolia, Jamaica Sago Tree, from the 
 southern part of the United States, is a beautiful 
 variety of Cycad-like appearance and very decorative. 
 
 Zamia Lindeni (Linden's), coming to us from 
 Ecuador, is a stately plant and desirable. 
 
 There are many more of this family, of which I 
 
196 Zamia. 
 
 have no practical knowledg-e; those which I have 
 mentioned, however, are good specimens of the 
 tribe, and will suffice for general purposes. 
 
 Keep their leaves clean at all times. They are 
 propagated by seed, division when possible, or by 
 offsets. 
 
 This family of Cycadacese is a very beautiful one, 
 consisting, I believe, of only two genera, the C5^cas 
 and Zamia, natives of South America, India, China, 
 and New Holland. They assimilate in many ways 
 with Palms, Coniferae, and Ferns; and are all fossil 
 plants, appearing to have been the chief material of 
 which considerable quantities of lignite or brown 
 coal were formed. 
 
 According to Buckland, the geologist, ''Many 
 silicified fossil trunks of Cycadaceae are found in the 
 Isle of Portland lodged in the same beds of black 
 mould in which they grew, surrounded by trunks of 
 large coniferous trees changed to flint, and by stumps 
 of the same trees, erect with their roots still planted 
 in their native soil." It is an awful thought, to try 
 to imagine what a fearful convulsion of nature there 
 must have been to cover them up thus in all their 
 vigor and strength. 
 
CHAPTER XI 
 
 PROF^AOATION OK PLANTS. 
 
 Cuttings Division Offsets 
 
 CUTTINGS 
 
 I AN Y plants may be propagated without the 
 slightest difficulty ; and, having once ob- 
 tained one of them, you should never 
 again be deprived of that particular 
 
 variety, if you really wish to retain it. I see no 
 reason why 5^ou should not increase your plants, if 
 they are of species that may be multiplied, from 
 cuttings, offsets, division, or seed. I have spoken 
 of these various ways and means in relation to indi- 
 vidual plants, and shall endeavor now to explain 
 my meaning as succinctly as possible, and show how 
 the several methods are carried out. 
 
 Some people seem to have a faculty of rooting 
 slips, or cuttings under difficulties ; every plant they 
 handle appears to thrive. I am not so blessed; and 
 probably there are many others like me. There is 
 only one perfect way for them all ; and about this 
 there is little trouble if you are a practical gardener 
 and have proper appliances. But if you are simply 
 an amateur, groping for knowledge, hoping for 
 success, and longing for flowers, it is entirely 
 
198 Cuttings 
 
 different. Outside of the regular routine, or gar- 
 deners' way, many suggestions on the subject have 
 been made by various writers. I know, however, of 
 but one way in which I have been fairly successful. 
 
 I have always found sand, good, sharp builders' 
 sand, the best thing for my cuttings. 
 
 Take an ordinary deep soup plate, and fill it with 
 the sand; wet the latter thoroughly, but not so as 
 to have the water stand, or settle at the bottom. 
 Select good, well ripened shoots ; cut them slantingly 
 downward, close to a joint or bud, with only the 
 smaller or young leaves left on; and put them into 
 your plate of sand about an inch, or one and a half 
 inches apart, all around the edge, leaving the tops 
 resting on the rim of the plate, with the lower ends 
 which are to root, all extending towards the centre. 
 
 Different varieties will not interfere with each 
 other, if they are not akin. Having put in such as 
 you need, set your plate in the warmest, lightest 
 place you have. If it is near a window where the 
 sun shines on it and heats up the sand, so much the 
 better. Only keep the sand wet, and you should 
 see your cuttings in a short while begin to hold up 
 their heads, and throw out leaflets from every joint. 
 
 Press the sand closely about your slips, to keep 
 out the air; and be sure that the sand is not too wet, 
 but just moist enough to remain in whatever position 
 or form you may give it. If you make a hole with 
 a stick in the sand, and the water settles in it, you 
 may know that your sand is too wet. But you must 
 also remember that when the plate is in the sun, or 
 exposed to much heat, the water rapidly evaporates; 
 and should the sand become entirely dry, you will 
 lose all prospect of a new crop of plants. 
 
Ciattings 199 
 
 Some of the more vig-oroiis varieties root quickly, 
 and if kept in the right condition may throw out 
 leaves in a week. When they show five or six well 
 developed leaves, gently take them out by slipping 
 a flat-bladed knife under them, being careful not to 
 disturb others that are less advanced. Plant the 
 cuttings now in two or three-inch pots. Water 
 them, and set them in the shade until they recover; 
 then give them sun, or shade, whichever meets their 
 requirements, with air overhead. You should have 
 no further trouble but such as is necessary to keep 
 them in good health. 
 
 Many different ways of rooting slips are advocated 
 by various authorities; but I should advise your 
 giving the method just suggested a thorough trial 
 before abandoning it, unless you have a propagating 
 bench in a well regulated greenhouse. 
 
 We have all, possibly, at some time seen, read, or 
 been told how to root hard-wooded shrubs — such as 
 Oleanders, and Cape Jasmines — in bottles of water 
 hung in the sun; and this is a very good way when 
 you cannot do better. The wood must not be too 
 old and hard, or, on the other hand, too soft and 
 green, but just a happy medium. In fact this rule 
 applies to all cuttings or slips. I have found that a 
 reliable test is when they break from the parent 
 plant wiih a little snapping sound. Vice versa, if 
 they are tough, stringy, and bend rather than break, 
 you might just as well not bother with them. 
 
 In rooting Oleanders, and the like, when you have 
 placed your slip in a bottle suspended by a cord 
 fastened around the neck, if you pack raw cotton in 
 the mouth of the bottle it will prevent evaporation 
 to some extent; and a bit of charcoal will help to 
 
200 Division 
 
 keep the water sweet. When the slip has thrown 
 out a sufficiency of rootlets, pour out most of the 
 water, and fill up the bottle with good soil; then, 
 when the soil is settled and moulded into form, 
 carefully break the bottle. You can thus transfer to 
 a pot with less danger of injuring or destroying 
 these tender young roots. 
 
 DIVISION 
 
 There are innumerable members of the plant 
 world which can be increased ad infinitum by simply 
 dividing the roots. The tender and more delicate 
 specimens need some care after division, while in 
 many of the coarser and commoner varieties the 
 smallest portions of root, when taken off and 
 planted, will straightway grasp the soil and in- 
 crease rapidly. These remind me of worthless 
 members of the human species, who will pass 
 through many dangers of annihilation and rise up 
 phoenix like, while those who are bulwarks of 
 strength against vice, and models of usefulness and 
 encouragement, are daily taken from our midst. 
 
 When dividing a plant, of a kind that may be 
 readily pulled apart by the fingers, you should care- 
 fully disentangle the roots, in such a manner as not 
 needlessly to lacerate them; then place the sepa- 
 rated pieces with their accompanying roots into 
 different receptacles of soil to make other individual 
 plants. 
 
 Various fleshy-rooted varieties, such as Imanto- 
 phyllum, are easily increased in this manner with- 
 out even disturbing the parent plant in its growth, 
 or removing it from the pot. They throw up young 
 
Offsets 201 
 
 shoots ; and if you simply run a knife down by the 
 side of one of these new aspirants for public appre- 
 ciation, and cut it away from the older subject, with 
 more or less roots attached, and plant it in soil 
 similar to that from which you took it, the young 
 shoot will go right on growing; it will soon make 
 another large handsome specimen to delight your 
 eyes. This is the best way with plants of the type 
 referred to; they seriously object to being molested 
 and turned out of their pots for purposes of division. 
 While this may be safely done with others, it might 
 materially retard their progress. 
 
 In treating of Adiantums, I have already explained 
 how they and similar plants may have the ball of 
 roots, of a large old plant, divided. This is done 
 by slicing through with a sharp knife from the top 
 or surface of the soil downward, making sectional 
 halves, quarters, or eighths, according to the size of 
 the mass to be divided. The different sections so 
 made are then to be planted in good rich soil to form 
 other specimens. 
 
 This method of propagation by division of the 
 roots, is a very important and valuable one; many of 
 us who are not regular gardeners, and have none of 
 the necessary appliances for plant production, would 
 be at a loss how to multiply numerous species were 
 it not for this wise provision of Nature. 
 
 OFFSETS 
 
 Very interesting to me is this miniature progeny. 
 I never see them clustering about the base of a plant, 
 clinging with all their feeble strength to the parent, 
 but I think of little babies nestling close to the 
 
202 
 
 Offsets 
 
 mother, drawing sustenance and vitality until they 
 are strong enough to stand alone. 
 
 So it is with these offsets, which are tiny lateral 
 shoots bearing clusters of leaves; and they will form 
 roots very quickly if taken off and planted in small 
 pots, or flats such as florists use. Many plants throw 
 out offsets, and are therefore easy to increase, the 
 Pandanus, and others of its type, being examples of 
 this habit. 
 
CHAPTER XII 
 
 QENERAL RENIARKS 
 
 UNIQUE TRELLIS 
 
 N my outdoor work I have carried out 
 some practical ideas that may be of bene- 
 fit to others. 
 
 The indispensable clothes post preyed 
 upon my sense of the beautiful until it became a 
 veritable nightmare, filling my dreams with visions 
 of small city lots, rendered yet smaller in appear- 
 ance by four or six sentinel posts, supporting in- 
 artistic lines of sagging rope, until I became quite 
 desperate and determined to be rid of them at any 
 cost. 
 
 I pondered over the problem for many weary 
 hours, and at length solved it. My first command, 
 which related to the wooden clothes posts, startled 
 the whole household into violent protest. 
 
 " Dig them out," I said, "and carry them to the 
 wood pile; they will do for kindHngs." 
 
 One and all expostulated, saying, "What shall we 
 do ? we must have them." 
 
 " Be patient a little while," I answered, "and I 
 shall show you what will supersede this incubus. " 
 
 I sent for the blacksmith, and instructed him to 
 make me some iron posts of two and a half inch gas 
 piping ten feet long. 
 
204 Uiiicjiae TrelliiS 
 
 Each of these, when finished according to direc- 
 tions, was as follows : Two legs or struts of angle iron, 
 two or three feet long, placed at an angle of about 
 forty-five degrees downwards, are strongly bolted to 
 the iron post at a point two or three feet above its base. 
 These struts, which are each shod at the end with a 
 square or shoe of iron, are intended to bear the 
 principal strain upon the post, and keep it upright. 
 
 A flat iron strip, about a quarter of an inch thick 
 by an inch wide, is riveted to each side of the post 
 near the top ; they are then sprung out in a heart- 
 shaped curve — the two pieces giving a span of six feet 
 at their greatest width apart — and brought gracefully 
 down to the point where the post enters the ground ; 
 here they are securely bolted against the sides. 
 Horizontal strips of lighter rounded iron run across 
 this heart-shaped span at distances some ten inches 
 apart. The top of the post ends in a round ball; and 
 on the face of the post, at the point where the heart 
 shape rises and curves outward, is a stout hook 
 well turned up. 
 
 That part of the trellis which will be above ground 
 is now painted a very dark inconspicuous green. 
 The underground portion is protected against rust 
 by metallic paint. The lower end is firmly embedded 
 in the soil to a depth of two feet. Against the 
 square shoes a convenient boulder has been placed ; 
 and likewise another boulder at the foot of the post, 
 on the side opposite that on which the line will pull. 
 In filling in, the earth has been carefully pounded. 
 
 All the posts or trellises, now complete, are 
 stationed at suitable distances around the inner edge 
 of a carriage drive which skirts the lawn ; they are 
 therefore on the outer margin of the lawn, which is 
 
UNIQUE TRELLIS 
 
206 tJniqoe Trellis 
 
 left free and clear. The hooks on the trellis posts 
 all face inward over the lawn. Attached to them 
 are Avire lines, almost invisible against the sward. 
 
 At the foot of these trellises are planted the 
 hardiest of monthly blooming climbing Roses ; and 
 when they are a mass of flowers from bottom to top, 
 as they are the greater part of the season, I feel 
 rather elated at an achievement which elicits praise 
 from all beholders, and am thankful that mother wit 
 has downed my incubus and converted it into an 
 object of usefulness and beauty. 
 
 Should some untoward winter destroy the cherished 
 climbing plants, I shall only have to purchase new 
 ones, trusting that before this occurs industrious 
 hybridizers will have produced more blooming 
 climbers that will be entirely hardy. As it is, these 
 so called partly hardy ones which I use, give me but 
 little trouble and the greatest satisfaction. 
 
 Coming as I do from a land where we have flowers 
 outdoors nearly all the year, I sometimes lose 
 patience with the scentless hardy running Roses 
 generally grown North and blooming only in June. 
 I use Gloire de Dijon, William Allen Richardson, 
 Waltham Queen Number Three, Marie Lavelley, an 
 excellent variety, Caroline Goodrich, Fiirsten Bis- 
 marck and Marie Henriette. These are heavily 
 mulched with long manure, two or three feet around 
 the base or roots. The tops are laid down and well 
 protected with leaves and a light covering of manure 
 to keep them in place. This, however, should not 
 be done too soon; moderate cold does not injure 
 them. 
 
 Old stumps or dead trees can easily be made 
 beautiful by plantinor vines at their bases, and train- 
 
General Remarks 207 
 
 ing these over them until they are entirely covered. 
 A stump covered with Ivy or Ampelopsis Veitchii 
 makes a handsome stand for a vase. 
 
 In this concluding chapter I would like to reiterate 
 and impress forcibly upon the minds of my readers 
 a few of the salient points of house or window 
 garden floriculture. Success is attainable only by 
 close observance of a given regimen, which must 
 never be lost sight of for a single day ; should this 
 occur, one's plants may pay the penalty of his or 
 her neglect. 
 
 Always bear in mind that during the dull dark 
 days of midwinter your plants must be watered with 
 great care ; and that it is much better to invest in a 
 rubber plant- sprayer, and sprinkle their leaves, than 
 to be continuously flooding their poor roots, which 
 are trying to recuperate by a needed rest for another 
 season's work.. Moreover, you can easily increase 
 the supply when they show signs of thirst. Also 
 remember not to allow water to stand in the saucers, 
 as it chills and rots the roots, and induces mould or 
 fungi to collect on the pots. 
 
 Be sure that your plants get plenty of air; it is as 
 absolutely essential to their living as it is to us. But 
 at the same time guard them from draughts; for 
 they are as susceptible to the pernicious effects of 
 these cold currents as we are. 
 
 Do not spare the scissors and spoil the plant, but 
 trim, tie and train it in the way it should go — unless 
 it is some special subject that resents the shears. If 
 you spare the shears, as a rule you will spoil the 
 appearance of your plants, and they are apt to look 
 
208 General Remarks 
 
 like untidy and unkempt weeds rather than delect- 
 able pets. 
 
 Never forget their insect foes, which though 
 diminutive are a host in themselves and too formid- 
 able to be neglected. The most important thing to 
 my mind is cleanliness, which is as near to godliness 
 for the dear flowers as for ourselves ; and if you keep 
 your plants perfectly clean you have won more than 
 half the battle. 
 
 There are innumerable plants which probably 
 many of us have seen, admired, and desired to 
 possess; and those of us who are blessed with hot- 
 houses and conservatories to furnish proper require- 
 ments for plants can indulge our taste for the par- 
 ticular specimens that please our fancy. But in 
 writing this little book, which is intended for those 
 not so fortunate, I have endeavored to keep strictly 
 within the lines of my personal experience, and to 
 select for description and suggestion as to treatment 
 only those plants which I know can be grown suc- 
 cessfully in our living-rooms or houses. This iin- 
 doubtedly may be done if my instructions are fol- 
 lowed. I could write at length on a variety of 
 subjects, of flowers that awaken admiration and 
 make one long to possess them ; but they would be 
 of no use whatever for the purpose described, 
 namely, permanent house decoration. Any one who 
 induced you to invest in them would simply be 
 defrauding you, unless the advice were given 
 through ignorance. 
 
 I have told you of the plants which have done best 
 under my care. There were, however, others that 
 I could not induce to remain with us tinder any con- 
 sideration. I trust this little book may come into 
 
General Remarks 
 
 209 
 
 the hands of those who appreciate flowers as I do, 
 and they will understand what a labor of love it 
 has been to write it amidst manifold other duties. 
 
 I love every expression of the spiritual force of 
 life, and have a wild longing to possess all plants, 
 not being able to pass the humblest weed without a 
 glance of admiration. They are so humanizing, and 
 all appeal to me. I never cease to marvel at their 
 wonderful construction, the regularity of their exist- 
 ence, their appearance and disappearance with the 
 recurring seasons, and to realize the illimitable field 
 of thought they awaken, of the Power that creates, 
 guides, controls and directs their being. 
 
 How little most people — bright people too — know 
 of the marvellous and amazing creations of the plant 
 world. Though silent monitors, the flowers are not 
 dumb, but speak to us through the delicacy of their 
 scents, their intricate shapes, complex habits and the 
 glorious penciling of their heavenly colors, that no 
 human artist can command. 
 
INDEX 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Abutilon 131 
 
 Boule de Neige 
 Golden Bells 
 Santana 
 
 Afiucan Lily, ^ee Ag-apan- 
 tbus 
 
 ACALYPHA 134 
 
 A. Macrophylla 
 A. Musaica 
 
 A. Wllkesiana. or Tri- 
 color 
 
 ACHYRANTHES 79 
 
 Adiantum 26 
 
 A. Capillus Veneris 
 
 A. Tenerum Farleyense 
 Agapanthiis 100 
 
 A. Umbellatus 
 
 A. U. AlbiduB 
 
 A. U. Flore-pleno 
 
 A. U. Maximus 
 
 A. U. Mooreanus 
 
 Ageratum 35 
 
 Alocasia 80 
 
 A. MacrorhizaVariegata 
 
 A. Metallica 
 
 A. Sedeni 
 
 A. Thibautiana 
 
 A. Zebrina 
 Aloysia 135 
 
 A. Citrlodora 
 Alternantheua 82 
 
 A. Amabilis Tricolor 
 
 A. Paronychioides 
 
 A. P. Magnifica 
 
 A. P. Major 
 
 A. P. M. Aurea 
 
 A. Versicolor 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Amaryllis 1 
 
 A. Belladonna 
 
 A. Equestre 
 
 A. Formosissima 
 
 A. Johnsoni 
 
 A. Vittata 
 
 Hippeastruins 
 Anthericum 101 
 
 A. Liliago 
 
 A. Liliastrum 
 
 A. Variegatum 
 Aralia 136 
 
 Sieboldi 
 Araucaria 184 
 
 A. Balansae 
 
 A. Cookii 
 
 A. Excelsa Glauca 
 
 A. E. Robusta 
 
 Ardisia 137 
 
 A. Crenulata 
 
 Arecas 116 
 
 A. Lutescens 
 Arrowroot. See Marnata 
 A RUM. See Call a 
 Arum Sanctum. See Calla 
 Arum, White. See Calla 
 Aspidistra 83 
 
 A. Elatior 
 
 A. E. V^ariegata 
 
 A. Lurida 
 Aubergine. See Solanum 
 Australian Feather Palm. 
 See Seaforthia Elegans 
 Azaleas 138 
 
 A. Indica 
 
 Ghent Azaleas 
 
212 
 
 Index 
 
 Balsam. See Impatiens 
 Barbadoes Lily. See Ama- 
 ryllis Equestre 
 Basket Plants. See Vines, 
 Creepers and Basket 
 Plants 
 Bay Tree. See Daphne 
 Beefsteak Plant ^eeSaxi- 
 fraga Sarmentosa Tri- 
 color 
 
 Begonia 84 
 
 B. Alba 
 B. Maculata 
 B. Metallica 
 B. Rex 
 B, Rubra 
 B. Vernon 
 Belli s. See Daisies 
 Bermuda Easter Lily. See 
 
 Li Hum Harris a 
 Bourbon Palm. SeeLatania 
 
 BOUVARDIAS 36 
 
 B. Humboldtii Corymbi- 
 
 flora 
 B. Jasminiflora 
 
 Bowstring Hemp. See San- 
 seviera 
 
 Bracken. See Ferns — Pteris 
 Aquilina 
 
 Brake Fern. See Ferns — 
 Pteris Aquilina 
 
 Browallia 86 
 
 B. Elata 
 B. Grandiflora 
 B. Janiesonii 
 B. Roezli 
 
 Brugmansia. See Datura 
 
 Brunsvigias. See Amaryllis 
 
 BULBS 
 
 Amaryllis 
 
 Crocus 
 
 Gladiolus 
 
 Hyacinthus 
 
 Narcissus 
 
 Nerines 
 
 Ornithogalum 
 
 Ox alls 
 
 Tulips 
 
 Epiphyllum 
 E. Truncatum 
 
 Cabbage Palm. See Oreo- 
 doxa Oleracea 
 
 CACTI 21 
 
 Cere us 
 
 Echinocactus 
 ^pipl 
 <:. Tr 
 
 E. T. Coccineum 
 E. T. Magniticum 
 E. T. Ruckerianum 
 E. T. Violaceum Super- 
 hum 
 Mam miliaria 
 Cactus, Crab Claw. See Cacti 
 — Epiphyllum Trunca- 
 tum 
 Cactus, Hedgehog. See Cacti 
 
 — Echinocactus 
 Caladium Fragrantissimum. 
 See Philodendron Fra- 
 grantissimum 
 
 Caladiums 87 
 
 C. Bicolor 
 C. Chantinii 
 C. Esculentum 
 C. Leopoldi 
 C. Macula turn 
 C. Marmoratum 
 C. Verschaffeltii 
 
 Calla 106 
 
 BlacJi Calla 
 Gem Calla 
 
 Calathea. See Maranta 
 Candytuft. See Iberis 
 Candytuft, Rocket. See 
 
 Iberis Coronaria 
 Cannas 89 
 
 Chas. Henderson 
 
 Eldorado 
 
 Madame Crozy 
 Cape Jasmine. See Gardenia 
 Caryota 118 
 
 C. Purpuracea 
 
 C. Sobolifera 
 
 C. Urens 
 Cereus. See Cacti 
 Chamaerops 119 
 
 C. Humilis 
 
 C. Macrocarpa 
 
 Chinese Lily See Narcissus 
 
 Chrysanthemum 39 
 
 Early-Howerin^ Chrys- 
 anthemums 
 Incurved-fiowered Chrys- 
 anthemums 
 Japanese Varieties 
 Large A nemone-flo wered 
 
 Chrysanthemums 
 Late-flowering Chrys- 
 anthemums 
 Pompones Reflexed 
 Recurved Chrysanthe- 
 mums 
 
Index: 
 
 213 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Chkysanthemum 
 
 Small Anemone-flowered 
 Pompone Chrysanthe- 
 mums 
 
 Clematis 171 
 
 C. Coccinea 
 
 C. Davideana 
 
 C. Fortune! 
 
 C. Jackmanni 
 
 C. Lanuginosa 
 
 C. A'italba 
 
 C. Viticella 
 
 Duchess of Edinburgh 
 
 Henryi 
 
 ■Club Mosses. See Selag-i- 
 nellas 
 
 CocoANUT Palm. See Coco.s 
 Nucifera 
 
 Cocos 119 
 
 C. Nucifera 
 C. Weddeliana 
 
 COLEUS 91 
 
 C. Verschaffeltii 
 Golden Bedder 
 
 COLOCASIA 186 
 
 C. Esculenta 
 
 CoNVALLARiA. See Lily of 
 the Valley 
 
 PAGE 
 
 CoiJDYLLXE. See Dracaena 
 
 Corn Flag. See Gladiolus 
 
 Crab Claw Cactus. SeeCacti 
 — Epiphyllum Trunca- 
 tum 
 
 CuEEPERH. See Vines, Creep- 
 era and Basket Plants 
 
 CREEPLXf; Charlie. See Ly- 
 simachia. 
 
 Creeping Sailor. See Saxi- 
 fraga Sarmentosa Tri- 
 color 
 
 Crinum 102 
 
 C. Americanum 
 C. Fimbriatum 
 C. Kirkii, or Nobile 
 
 Crocus 3 
 
 Cultural Directions 112 
 
 Curly Palm. See Kentia 
 Belmoreana 
 
 Cuttings 197 
 
 Cycads 121 
 
 C. Kevoluta 
 Dioon Edule 
 
 Cyperis 187 
 
 C. Alternifolius 
 
 Daffodil. See Narcissus 
 
 Daisies 47 
 
 Daisy, Parts. See Chrys- 
 anthemum 
 
 Daphne 145 
 
 D. Odora 
 
 Date Palm. See Phienix 
 
 Date, Wild. SeePhwnixSyl- 
 vestris 
 
 Datura 48 
 
 Brugmansia 
 D. Sanguinea 
 D. Suaveolena 
 
 DlEFFENBACHIA 93 
 
 D. Baraquiniana 
 
 DlEFFENBACHIA 
 
 D. Bausei 
 D. Leopoldi 
 D. Magnifica 
 D. Majestica 
 D. Nobilis 
 D. Begin a 
 D. Rex 
 D. Splendens 
 D. Triuuiphans 
 
 DiooN Edule. See Cycads 
 
 Directions, Cultural 112 
 
 Disbudding 40 
 
 ( See Ch rysa n th em urn ) 
 
 Division 20O 
 
 Drac^na 94- 
 
 East Indian Wine Palm. See 
 
 Pbcenix Sylvestris 
 Echinocactus. See Cacti 
 Egg Plant. See Solan um 
 
 Elephant's Ear. See Colo- 
 casia Esculenta 
 
 Epiphyllum. See Cacti 
 
214 
 
 Index: 
 
 PAGE 
 
 FARFuoirM Grande 90 
 
 Fern, Brake. See Ferns — 
 
 Pteris Aquilina 
 Fern, Maidenhair. See,4J/- 
 
 nntuin 
 FERNS 2G 
 
 Adiantnins 
 
 Xephrolepis 
 
 PlHt.vceriuins 
 
 Pteris 
 
 Fern, Stag Horn. SeePlaty- 
 
 ceriums 
 Fern, Sword. See Xephro- 
 lepis Exalt ata 
 
 Ficrs 122 
 
 F. Elastica 
 Fig. See Ficus 
 Fish Tail Palm. SeeCarj'ofa 
 Flag, Corn. See Gladiolus 
 Flat Palm. SeeKentiaFor- 
 
 s ten a II a 
 Flax, Lily, i^ee Phonniuni 
 Flax, New Zealand. See 
 Pbormiuni Tenax 
 
 FLOWERING PLANTS. 
 A gem turn 
 Bouvardias 
 Chrysa utlieni uin 
 Daisies 
 Datura 
 Fuchsia 
 Geraniums 
 Heliotrojie 
 Il)eris 
 
 33 
 
 FLOWERING PLANTS 
 linpatieus 
 Lantana 
 Ma her Ilia. 
 Mignonette 
 Xieotiana 
 I'ansies 
 I'etunia 
 Pliormium 
 Plumbago 
 liein nurd tin 
 Salvia 
 Violets 
 
 FOLIAGE PLANTS 79 
 
 Acbyranthes 
 
 Aloe a si a 
 
 Alternanthera 
 
 Aspidistra 
 
 Begonia 
 
 Brow a Ilia 
 
 Caladiums 
 
 Caiinas 
 
 Cole us 
 
 Dieffenhachia 
 
 Draciena 
 
 Farfugium Grande 
 
 Maranta 
 P'OK Succession. Term used 
 
 as to mode of planting: 6 
 
 (See Gladiolus, Hyacin- 
 th us. Petunia) 
 Fragrant Verbena. See 
 
 Aloysia 
 Fuchsia 50 
 
 F. Phenomeual 
 
 F. Speciosa 
 
 Storui King: 
 
 Gardenia 146 
 
 G. Florida 
 
 Geraniums 53 
 
 Apple Geranium 
 Bronze Geranium 
 Ivy Leaf Geranium 
 Lady Washington Ger- 
 anium 
 Lemon Geranium 
 Nutmeg Geranium 
 Rose Geranium 
 Silver Geranium 
 
 Geranii'ms 
 
 Zonal, or Bedding Ger- 
 anium 
 Gladiolus 5 
 
 G. Colvillei 
 
 G. Recurvus 
 
 G O L D E N-R AYED LiLY OF 
 
 Japan. See Liliuni Au- 
 ratum 
 
 Grevillea 14R 
 
 G. Robusta 
 Guernsey Lily. See Xerine 
 Sarniensis 
 
 H 
 
 Hedera. See Ivy 
 
 HED(iEHOG Cactus. f^eeCacti 
 — Echinocactus 
 
 Heliotrope 60 
 
 Hibiscus 148 
 
 H. Coceineus 
 
 Hibiscus 
 
 H. Rosa Sinensis 
 
 H. R. S. Cooperi 
 
 H. Schizopetalus 
 
 H. Splendens 
 HiPPEASTRUM. See .4 maryllis 
 Honey Bell, fiee Ma hernia 
 
Index 
 
 215 
 
 PAGE 
 
 HowEA Belmoreana. See 
 
 Ken tin Belmoreana 
 HowEA FoKSTERiAXA. See 
 Kentia Forsteriaua 
 
 HOYA 150 
 
 H. Bella 
 H. Carnosa 
 H. Paxtoni 
 
 Hyacinthus 7 
 
 Roman Hyacinths 
 
 Iberis CO 
 
 I. Coronaria 
 
 I. Semperflorens 
 
 I. Sempervirens 
 Imantophvlia'm lO-t 
 
 I. Miniatum 
 
 Impatiens 61 
 
 I. Sultani 
 
 HYDRAXOrEAS 151 
 
 H. Hortensis 
 
 H. H. Japonica 
 
 H. H. Otaksa 
 
 H. Paniculata Graudi- 
 
 flora 
 H. Petiolaris 
 H. Quercifolia 
 H. Scandens 
 Thomas Hogg 
 
 India Rubber Plant. See 
 Ficus Elastica 
 
 Ivy 
 
 English Ivy 
 
 German Ivy, or Parlor 
 
 Ivy 
 Hedera Helix Canariensis, 
 Irish Ivy 
 
 173 
 
 Jamaica Sago Tree. See 
 Za m in In tegrifo lin 
 
 Japanese Fern Palm. See 
 Cycas Revoluta 
 
 Jasmine, Cape. See Gardenia 
 
 Jasminum 
 
 J. Floridum 
 J, Frutioans 
 
 Jasmintm 
 
 J. Gracillimnm 
 J. Grandifloru'm 
 J. Nudifloruiii 
 J. Revolutum 
 
 Jerusalem Cherry. See So- 
 lanuni Psendo-Ca psi- 
 cuni 
 
 Jo.NQriL. See Narcissus 
 
 K 
 
 Kentias 12.3 
 
 K. Belmoreana 
 K. Forsteriana 
 
 Kr.MQVAT. See Oranfre/t — 
 Citrus Japonica 
 
 L.ANTANA 62 
 
 Latania 124 
 
 L. Aurea 
 
 L. Borbonica 
 LaurusNobilis. See Daphne 
 I.EMON Verbena . See .-1 loysia 
 LiGULARiA. See Farfugiiiin 
 Grande 
 
 LILIES 100 
 
 Agapanthus 
 
 Anthericnm 
 
 Crinuw 
 
 Ini a n tophylliim 
 
 Lilium 
 
 Lily of the Valley 
 LiLHM 105 
 
 Black Calla 
 
 Calla 
 
 Gem Calla 
 
 Lilium 
 
 L. Auratnm 
 L. Brownii 
 L. Bulbiferum 
 L. Canadense 
 L. Candidum 
 L. Harrisii 
 L. Longiflorum 
 L. Rosen m 
 L. Speciosum 
 L. S. Albiflorum 
 
 Lily, African. See Agn- 
 p ant bus 
 
 I^iLY, Barbadoes. See.4/».'j- 
 ryllis Equestre 
 
 Lily, Bermtda. See Lilium 
 Harrisii 
 
 Lily, Bermtda Easter. See 
 Lilium Harrisii 
 
2 m 
 
 Index: 
 
 Lily, Chinese. SeeXarcis.sus 
 
 Lily, Easter. See Lilium 
 Harrisii 
 
 Lily, Flax, f^ee Phorniiiim 
 
 Lily, G o l d e x - R a y e d of 
 Japan. See Lili u lu A u- 
 ratum 
 
 Lily, Guernsey. See Serine 
 Siiruienai.s 
 
 IviLY, Milk and Wine of 
 
 Nassau. See Crinuiu 
 
 Fimbriatum 
 Lily OF The Nile. SeeCalla 
 
 Lily of The Valley 
 
 Convallaria Majalis 
 I.,iLY, Pink Spider. SeeNerine 
 
 Japoaica 
 Lily, St. Bernard's. See 
 
 Authericum Liliago 
 
 109 
 
 Lily, St. Bruno's. See An- 
 thericuiu LUiastrum 
 
 Lily, White Trumpet. See 
 Lilium Longitiorum 
 
 Llxum Trigynum. See Rein- 
 ward tia 
 
 LiviSTONA Chin e n s i s. See 
 Latania Borbonica 
 
 Loosestrife. See Ly.sinia- 
 cliia 
 
 Love Apple. See Solanurn 
 
 LYCOPERSIUUM EsrULENTUM. 
 
 See ISolanum 
 Lycopodium. See Selaginellas 
 Lysimauhia 174 
 
 L. Atropurpurea 
 
 L. Ciliata 
 
 L. Clethroides 
 
 L. Lanceolata 
 
 L. Nummularia 
 
 L. Vulgaris 
 
 M 
 
 68 
 
 Madagascar Periwinkle. 
 See Vinca Rosea, and 
 Vinca Alba 
 
 Mahernia 
 
 M. Glabrata 
 M. Incisa 
 M. Odorata 
 
 MaidenhairFern. SeeAdian- 
 tuin 
 
 Mammillaria. See Cacti 
 
 Manettia 175 
 
 M. Bicolor 
 M. Cordifolia 
 M. Micans 
 
 Maranta 
 
 Calathea Princeps 
 
 C. Tubispatha 
 
 C. Veitchii 
 
 Maranta Bicolor 
 
 M. Concinna 
 
 M. Nitens 
 
 M. Sagoriana 
 
 M. Zebrina 
 Marguerite. See Cbrjsan- 
 themum 
 
 97 
 
 Marsh Mallow. See Hibiscus 
 Mignonette 64 
 
 Reseda Odorata 
 Milk and Wine Lily of 
 
 N assa u . See Crin urn Fim - 
 briatum 
 
 Mimulus 176 
 
 M. Cardinalis 
 M. Glutinosus 
 M. Lewisii 
 
 Lysi- 
 
 Monkey Flower. See Mi- 
 mulus Luteus 
 
 Mother of Thoxisands. See 
 Sa xifraga Sa rm en t osa 
 Tricolor 
 
 Musk Plant. See Mimulus 
 Moschatus 
 
 Myrtle. See Vinca 
 
 M. 
 M. 
 M. 
 M. 
 M 
 
 Luteua 
 
 L. Cupreus 
 
 Moschatus 
 
 M. Harrisonii 
 
 Repens 
 
 NEYWORT. See 
 machia 
 
 N 
 
 Naruisstts 11 
 
 Double Roman Narcissus 
 Paper White Narcissus 
 Polyanthus Narcissus 
 Chinese Lily 
 Trumpet Major 
 
 Nepenthes 188 
 
 N. Antro-sanguinea 
 N. Phyllamphora 
 
 Nephrolepis 31 
 
 N. Exaltata 
 
 Nerines 13 
 
 N. Fothergilli Major 
 N. Japonica 
 N. Sarniensis 
 
 Nerium Oleander. 
 ander 
 
 See Ole- 
 
Index 
 
 21'; 
 
 New Zealand Flax. See 
 Phormium Tenax 
 
 NiCOTIANA 
 
 N. Acutiflora 
 N. Affinis 
 N. Fraffrans 
 N. Glauca 
 
 66 
 
 NiCOTIAXA 
 
 N. Tabacum 
 
 N. NVigandioides 
 Nightshade. See Petunia 
 Nightshade. SeeSolanum 
 Norfolk Island Pine. See 
 Araucuriu Excelsa 
 
 Offsets 201 
 
 Olea 158 
 
 Olea Fragrans 
 
 Oleander •. 159 
 
 Oranges 160 
 
 Citrus Japonica 
 
 Otaheite Orange 
 
 Satsuma Orange 
 
 Oreodoxa 126 
 
 O. Granatensis 
 
 O. Oleracea 
 
 O. Regia 
 
 O. Sancona 
 Ornithogalum 14 
 
 O. Arabicum 
 
 O. Nutans 
 
 O. Thyrsoides 
 
 O. Uinbellatura 
 
 O Vittatum 
 
 Osmanthus Fragrans. See 
 
 Olea Fragrans 
 Ostrich Plume. See Cbry- 
 
 santbemum 
 Othonna 178 
 
 O. Crassifolia 
 OXALIS 15 
 
 O. Acetosella 
 
 O. Bowiei 
 
 O. Enneaphylla 
 
 O. Lobata 
 
 O. Luteola 
 
 O. Purpurea 
 
 O. Rosea 
 
 O. Tetraphylla 
 
 OxALis Deppei. See Oxalis 
 
 Tetraphylla 
 Oxalis Flo ri bund a. See 
 Oxalis Rosea 
 
 Palm, Australian Feather. 
 See Seaforthia Elegans 
 
 Palm, Bourbon. See Latania 
 
 Palm, Cabbage. See Oreo- 
 doxa Oleracea 
 
 Palm, Cocoanut. See Cocos 
 Nucifera 
 
 Palm, Curly. See Kentia 
 
 Belmoreana 
 Palm, Date. See Phwnix 
 Palm, East Indian Wine. 
 
 See Phoenix Sylvestris 
 Palm, Fish Tail. See Caryota 
 Palm, Flat. See Kentia 
 
 Forsteriana 
 Palm, Japanese Fern. See 
 
 Cycas Revoluta 
 
 PALMS 
 
 Arecas 
 
 Caryota 
 
 Chamierops 
 
 Cocos 
 
 Cyca (Is 
 
 Fie us 
 
 Kentia s 
 
 Latania 
 
 Oreodoxa 
 
 Pandanus 
 
 112 
 
 PALMS 
 P ho? nix 
 Seaforthia 
 
 Palm, Sago. See Cycas Re- 
 voluta 
 
 Palm, Thatch Leaf. See 
 Kentia Forsteriana 
 
 Palm, Umbrella. See Cy- 
 perus Alternifolius 
 
 Pancratiums 189 
 
 P. lUyricum 
 
 P. Maritimum 
 Pandanus 126 
 
 P. Utilis 
 
 P. Veitchii 
 
 Pansies 67 
 
 Paris Daisy. See Chrysan- 
 themum 
 Pelargonium. See Geranium 
 Pereskia Stock. See Cacti 
 Perhvinkle. See Vinca 
 
 Petunia 69 
 
 Phalangium. See Antheri- 
 
 cuni 
 Philodendron 191 
 
 P. Erubescens 
 
 P. Fragrantis.simum 
 
218 
 
 Index 
 
 Philodendron 
 p. Glorioeum 
 P. Mamei 
 
 P. Melanochrysum 
 P. Verrucosum 
 
 Phcenix 128 
 
 P. Canarieneis 
 P. Dact3-lifera 
 P. Reclinata 
 P. Rupicola 
 P. Sylvestris 
 
 Phormium 71 
 
 P. Cookianum Variega- 
 
 tum 
 P. Tenax 
 
 P. T, Nigro Pictum 
 P. T. Variegaturn 
 P. T. Veitchianum 
 
 Pine, Norfolk Island. See 
 
 Araucaria Ex eels a 
 Pine, Screw. Bee Pandanus 
 Pink Spider Lily. HeeNerine 
 
 Jajjonica 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Pitcher Plant. See Nepen- 
 thes 
 
 Planting for Succession. 
 See For Succession 
 
 Platycerium 33 
 
 PLUMBA(iO 7^ 
 
 P. Capensis 
 P. Coccinea 
 P. Larpent;e 
 P. Rosea 
 P. Scandens 
 Potato. See Solan uni Tube- 
 rosum 
 PROPAGATION OF 
 
 PLANTS 197 
 
 Cuttinfi^s 
 Division 
 Offsets 
 Pteris. See Ferns 
 Ptychosperma. See Sea- 
 
 forthia 
 Pyrethrtm. See Cbrysan- 
 thenium 
 
 Ragwort. See Othonna 
 Reinwardtia 73 
 
 R. Tetragynum 
 
 R. Trigynum 
 Reseda. Ski^ Mignonette 
 
 RlCHARDIA ^THIOPICA. See 
 
 Calhi 
 RlCHARDIA Africana. See 
 
 Calla 
 Rocket Candytuft. See 
 
 Iberis Coronaria 
 Roman Hyacinths, ^te Hya- 
 cinths 
 
 Roses 164 
 
 American Beauty 
 Dins mo re 
 Duchess of Albany 
 
 Roses 
 
 La France 
 
 Madame Caroline Testout 
 
 Meteor 
 
 Anna de Dit^sbach 
 Baroness Rothschild 
 Boule de Neige (Bail of 
 
 Snow) 
 General Jacqueminot 
 John Hopper 
 Magna Charta 
 Mrs. John Laing 
 Paul Neyron 
 Prince Camille de Rohan 
 Ulrich Brunner 
 Rubber Plant. See Flcus 
 
 Elastic a 
 
 Sage. See Salvia Officinalis 
 Sago Palm. f^eeCycasRevo- 
 luta 
 
 Sago Tree, Jamaica. See 
 Zainia Integrifolia 
 
 St. Bernard's Lily. See^n- 
 thericum Liliago 
 
 St. Bruno's Ijhly. See An- 
 thericum Liliastrum 
 
 Salvia 
 
 S. Officinalis 
 S. Patens 
 S. P. Alba 
 S. Splendens 
 S. S. Bruantii 
 
 74 
 
 Sanseviera 192 
 
 S. Cylindrica 
 S. Guineensis 
 S. Long' flora 
 S. Zeylanica 
 
 Saxifraga 193 
 
 S. Cotyledon 
 S. Crassifoiia 
 S. Geranioides 
 S. Longifolia 
 S. Nepalensis 
 S. Peltata 
 S. Purpurascens 
 S. Pyramidalis 
 S. Sarmentosa Tricolor 
 S. Virginiensis Flore- 
 pleno 
 
IrLd.e:>c 
 
 21^ 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Screw Pine. See Pandanus 
 Seaforthia 130 
 
 S. Elegans 
 Selaoinelkas 194 
 
 S, KrauBsiana 
 SHRUBS 131 
 
 A hut Hon 
 
 Acalypba 
 
 Aloysia 
 
 A rail a 
 
 A rilisia 
 
 Azaleas 
 
 Jfaphoe 
 
 Gardenia 
 
 (irevillea 
 
 Hibiscus 
 
 Hoya 
 
 Hydrangeas 
 
 Jasminum 
 
 Olea 
 
 Oleander 
 
 Oranges 
 
 Roses 
 SOLANIIM 178 
 
 Lycopersicum Esculen- 
 turn 
 
 Solanum Jasminoides 
 
 S. Melongena 
 
 Solanum 
 
 S. Pseudo-Capsicum 
 S. Seaforthianum 
 S. Tuberosum 
 
 Souhel, Woou. See Oxalis 
 Acetosella 
 
 Spider WORT. See T ra de- 
 scant i a 
 
 Sprekelias. See Amaryllis 
 
 Stag Horn Fern. See Pla- 
 ty cerium 
 
 Star of Bethlehem. See 
 Ornithogalum IJmbel- 
 latum 
 
 Strawberry Geranium. See 
 Saxifraga Sarmentosa 
 I'ricolor 
 
 Streptosolen J a m e r o n 1 1. 
 See Browallia James- 
 onii 
 
 Succession, Planting for. 
 
 See For Succession 
 Sword Fern. See Nephro- 
 
 lepis Exaltata 
 
 Thatch Leaf Palm. See 
 Ken tia Fo rs terian a 
 
 T o B A cc o . See Nico tia n a 
 
 Tomato. See Solanum 
 
 Toothwort. HeePlumbago 
 
 Tradescantia 181 
 
 T. Discolor 
 
 U 
 
 Umbrella Pat-m. See Cy- 
 perus Alternifolius 
 
 Umbrella Plant. See Sax i- 
 fraga Peltata 
 
 Tradescantia 
 
 Wandering Jew 
 
 Trellis, Unique 20& 
 
 Trumpet Lily, White. See 
 Lilium LongiHorum 
 
 Trumpet Major. See Nar- 
 cissus 
 
 Tulips IT 
 
 Unique Trellis 203 
 
 V 
 
 Vallotas. See Amaryllis 
 Verbena, Fragrant. See 
 
 Aloysia 
 Verbena, Lemon. See Aloy- 
 sia 
 ViNCA 182 
 
 V. Alba 
 
 V. Major 
 
 V Minor 
 
 V. Rosea 
 VINES, CREEPERS and 
 
 BASKET PLANTS 171 
 
 Clematis 
 
 Ivy 
 
 Lysimachia 
 
 VINES, CREEPERS and 
 BASKET PLANTS 
 Manettia 
 Mim ulus 
 Otbonna 
 Solan um 
 Tradescantia 
 Vinca 
 
 Violets 7& 
 
 English Violets 
 Marie Louise Violets 
 Neapolitan Violets 
 Russian Violets 
 Viola Odorata 
 
 Virgin's Bower, See Clematis 
 
220 
 
 Incier<: 
 
 \V 
 
 Wandering Jew. HeeTrmle- 
 
 scantiit 
 Wax Plant. See Hoya 
 White Arim. See Calla 
 White Trumpet Lily. See 
 
 Lilium LoDgWorum 
 
 Wild Date. See Pbwuix Syl- 
 vestris 
 
 Wine Palm, East Indian. 
 See Phcenix Sylvestris 
 
 Wood Sorrel. See Oxulis 
 Acetoaella 
 
 Zamia 
 
 Z. P'urfuracea 
 Z. Integrifolia 
 Z. Lindeni 
 
 105 
 
 Zebra Plant. See Maranta 
 
 Zebrina 
 Zephyranthes. SeeAmayrillis 
 Zonal. See Geranium 
 
 »D3aa 
 


 
 4- K' 
 
 
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