3fw 5F 467 f157 'Opy 1 Price 50 Cents. VOTED TO THE PRACTICAL SIDE OF SQUAB RAISING. BY BASl" L_AKB SQUAB CO. V .1A51 ILIB:-. \HY or OONuJJtSS MAR 6 1905 I COPY t; e: entire contents or this book to- gether VyITH ALL CUTS ARE COPYRIGHTED 1905 BY FANCIERS' PRESS, W E L L F 1_ E E T . MASS. iPreface HE object of this book is two-fold in its pur- pose. First, to give a truthful description of Squab raising in all its details, the method of building- houses, flying pens and feed troughs, the care of the flock, the best methods of kill- ing, cooling and marketing the Squabs, the ailments of Pigeons and questions and answers. Second, to obviate the endless amount of correspond- ence which is entailed conducting a business of this kind. If we were obliged to answer all the letters and questions asked us in the course of a season's business it means the emplovment of a large office force and also the ex- penditure of a vast amount of time on our part. Hence the issue of this little book. We have compiled the contents from our own ex]KM-ience and the experience of others who have spent many years in the business. From the letters of our correspondents we have se- lected the leading questions which we have endeavored to answer to the best of our abilitv and knowledge. Trusting that we have covered all the vital points, we are obedientlv vours. m Squab Breeding as an Industry. yUAB breeding for profit is an especially fas- cinating business inasmuch as it is very prof- ital)le, easy, requiring little work, and always a demand in the market for the squab. We know of one gentleman who works eight hours a day and manages a flock of over 200 pairs. He informed us that last year he cleared over $600.00 and explained to us how he did it on so small a lot. Said he: "I first started with thirty pairs and sold all my scjuabs and the money left after the feed bill was de- ducted I invested in breeders until mv flock reached t\\o hundred and twenty pairs. I marked carefully those who hatched regularly and removed those who did not. I finally had left two hundred pairs. These birds I fed according to your directions and averaged nine pairs of squabs for every pair last year. I had some losses such as squabs dying now and then, and sometimes a pan* only hatched one. I watched a pair of this kind and if the performance was rejieated I removed then and in- serted a ])air that would hatch two. Now of course this t^lowness, as the Ixunt onl\' ])roduces < n an average, three priir per year. 13 What is a Homer? E is evidently a made bird, we mean l)y that, that he is a bird produced by the crossing of several different breeds. How far back this happened we have no means of knowing. He was bred for the purpose of carrying mes- sages nany hundred years ago, in fact, so far back that he can now legalh' la_\' claim to being a distinct species of Dird. After having l:)ecn used as a message carrier for m.any vears, he vas hnallv selected as a s(|uab breeder on ac- count of his sturdy Ir.iild, in.urerse breast, and perfect health i-nder aM co'ditirns of weather. He is a strong- Iv constituted bird and the grandest l^reeder ever known. He must not be confounded with the Carrier for he is in everv wav the superior of that liird. The Homer has been known to tiy 800 miles to his home loft, while it would tax the carrier severely to find its way home from a point 25 miles distant. He derives his name from his love (^f home, and the wonderful instinct which guides him there from the most distant ]ioiiUs. He does not lav claim to anv ])articular color, InU comes in as many hues as Joseph's c at. He comes in red, dun, white, black, blue, checkers, l)ars and mottled. When a flock is sunning themselves, thev cast all the tints and cond^ination of tints shown in a rainbow. It would delight the soul of an artist, and a more beautifn.l sight would be hard to find. Manv pigeons resemble the Homer yet he resembles none. It might be possible to mistake a conuuon pig- eon for a Homer, yet no one would mistake liim fi r a common bird. 14 He has a distinguished air pecuhar to himself, he is larger and more compactly built, a well formed head, broad and rather flat on the top, a beautiful rimmed eye, and a large wattle at the base of the beak, a trim thor- oughbred, racy look, possessed by no other bird. No peacock is prouder than he, or has a more com- placent strut. A breeder once remarked to us "that he had no sentiment, and didn't care for looks, what he was after, was the big 25 cent squab." So are we, but we must acknowledge that we are sentimental enough to love the grand bird that produces it. Nest of Eggs. 15 Getting Ready for a Start. E will beg-in by saying that no particular style or size of house is required for squab raising. Any structure that is warm, or can be made warm, and free from drafts in the winter, and cool and well ventilated in the summer, may be turned into a squab-house. There are few people who haven't a vacant building of some kind on their premises, a woodshed, henhouse, smokehouse, or the loft of a barn, or some other build- ing that could be utilized for the purpose. After having selected the building you wish to use, build a floor in it at least a foot above the ground, or so that you can see under it. this is done so that the rats cannot take up an abode underneath it. Then build a flying pen. along the sunny side of it, the full length of the house and from 8 feet to i6 feet in width, and as high as the eaves of the house. Thus, if your house is 1 6 feet in length by lo feet in width, it would make your flying pen i6 feet long, of any width you desire, and as high as the eaves. It is not necessary to have a large flving pen, as it is only designed for a sunning and exer- cise ground. Pigeons do better when confined, as the cock can drive the hen without much fatigue on his part, whereas, if they were alloweri to fly. he would have much dif^culty in catching her, as she is the lightest and swiftest bird, and wih not go to nest until driven to do so. Cover the flying pen with one inch mesh wire to keep out the swallows, who if they are allowed to get in. will eat as much feed as the pigeons. On the inside of the squab house, on the three walls not occupied by the door and window, build rows of nest 16 boxes, 12 inches S(|uare and 12 inches deep. Do not put anv boards in fr( nt (if these l)Oxes to keep the scjuabs from falhng- out, as it makes them too thfficuh to clean: I)uihl them just hke the i)i_!L;"eu wish to ])r<)tect the scpiabs from fallino" out, build a li.i^ht frame without an_\- l.)i ttom, and when a pair start to build, sli]) tlie frame over the partially built nest. Wdien the s(|ual)s are taken from this nest, clean the frame and di]) it in whitewash an.d ])Ut it back again. Each ])air of birds must have two nest boxes, as the female goes to setting whe:i the hrst hatch is f;om ten da\'s to two weeks old. dims if \iiu have 100 pair of birds. \du need 20c nest bi xes. \'our scpial) hotise will hold as nianv pigeons without crrnvding a-; _\ou can get in nest boxes. Buying Birds for a St\rt. When a man or woman makes u]) his, or her mind to g'i 1 into S(|nab raising lor a ]:)roht, the\' should do so, in all earnestness, aril Ix-gin b\- reading thus little 1)Onk. ( ireat care should l)e taken in huxing the hrst lot of l)irds, as nuicli dejiend^ on the doings and actions of the hrst lot purchased b\- the beginner, as to tlie success' of the enter]iise. If the birds are thoroughbred mated Ilomers of a breeding age, then the result will exceed their exi^ectation. ( In the other hand if the l)irds are an old, or worn out tiock. inbred, or crossed, or common pigeons, the result \n ill be (''^\'!i'i)i i"tirg in the extreme. A hock of this kind reciuires tiie same building, sanie feed, sar.ie attention as tht good birds, so get the best or dim't start. Methods of Unscrupuioup Brokers. 17 We call them Pig-eon Brokers, for the reason that they do not raise a single bird they sell, but buy them all over the country without regard to age or quality, and as a consequence succeed in gathering a mixed lot of birds, which are sorted and sold out to the first buyer. While some of these birds may be straight bred Hom- ers, they are apt to be unprolific on account of age, inbreeding, and various other causes. Common Pigeons. The common pigeon is the bird unprofital)le in the way of squab raising. They are unreliable, vagrant in habits, seldom raising in confinement more than four or five pair a year, their ?(|uabs being classed in the mar- ket as dark mixed, only bring from $1.25 to $1.75 per dozen, as against the Homer squab at $3.00 to $9.50 per dozen. The cost of feeding, housing, and care licing the same as the better iMrd. Cross Bred Pigsons. In this statement, we are sure that every breeder of pigeons will agree witn us. in the thorouglibred Homer we have all the (lualities which gt) to make u]) a perfect breeder, and we cannot cross him without a loss of a heavy per cent of these perfections, consequently, it is bevond the i>ossibilities to gain anything by cross- ing him with anv other bird. Many have tried to do this to the undoing of their bank accounts. A cheap bunch of birds are the dearest k t a man ever attempted to liandle even if the originals were a gift to him. He will not realize enough from them to pay his grain bills. 18 He will be inspired with such a huge disgust for squab breeding, that it will descend to his children. (We have been over the route.) If your means are limited, you had better start in with a few Homers and buy from month to month until you succeed in getting your flock to a paying size. Always buy from a breeder on whom you can rely. Do not pretend to know anything about the business, and tell him so frankly, and he will always do the best he can to assist you in making your venture a success. We have always found it the best policy for a begin- ner to sell his squabs and buy breeders, for you thus introduce new blood into your flock and run no risk of inbreeding. If you are determined to save your in- crease, at a given time gather up all your young cocks and trade them with some one who has good stock, by doing this you can also keep your flock from inbreeding. This will keep your flock healthy and rugged. We do not adv cate the promiscuous mating of the young bred in the same squab house, as frequent blood- matings are liable to occur. Tliis can be readily deter- mined by an exanination of the squnlx if his flesh be dark colored, it is the result of a blood-mating. 19 Mating, Nesting, Laying, Hatching. OAIER cocks are not p lyganiists, they have but one mate. When once mated they never separate unless h\- the death of one "or the other. When this occurs, after a time, thev win again mate up with a bird of the opposite sex. lUit if a cock is taken from the squab-house and placed in a mating coop with a female they will after a time mate with her, but, if placed in the same quarters with their old mate they will desert the new spouse and go back to the old. The hen bird builds the nest, being driven to do so by the cock, who is at all times the master of his own home. When you see one bird driving another about the yard, pecking her, and giving her no chance to eat, drink, or rest tmtil she begins to carry nesting materials, you !nay know that the bird being driven is the hen. hdirting, twisting around several times, strutting and putting u]> 1)\' the male, means nothing. A steady drive is when the real goods are being delivered. When the nest is built the hen lays an egg and skips a day, then lays the second egg. The hen sits on the eggs from about four o'clock in the afternoon until about ten the next morning, when the cock takes his turn sitting until four in the afternoon, this is kept up until the young are hatched which usually occurs 17 da\s after the last egg is laid. IJoth the parent birds then feed until the young are about two weeks old when the cock again drives her to nest, this is the reason that each pair reciuire two nest boxes. If thev are not pro- vided with two, they will lay their eggs in the same nest and the young squabs will be kicked out and perish. 20 Both birds feed the young up to the age of two weeks, or. until the hen nests again. At first the food is a thin milky substance called "Pigeon's Milk." i'his is dis- gorged by the old birds and gradually becomes thicker and thicker, until as the scjuabs become older they are fed the whole grains. This is what makes squab breeding attractive to most people, there is no care or feeding required as is the case with chicks, the parent birds attend to all this and when the squab is ready to leave the nest he is ready for the market. At four weeks of age he is fully feathered and often weighs uK^re than either of his parents. Ikit if allowed to get on the floor he will soon train off the superfluous flesh and become at once the trim, racy Homer. As a usual thing there is a squab of each sex hatched in the same nest, the cock being the larger bird and al- ways hatches first. If at any time you notice too much discrepancy in the size of the two birds, then you may be sure the larger and stronger one is receiving more than his share ( f the nourishment. In a case of this kind, go to some other nest and select a squab that is about the same size of the larger one and trade places with the weaker one. 1 he parent bird will go on feeding it with- out noticinu' the exchantre. ^^ ^ ^'.(H f lii _L_^ Killing and Shipping. HEN a squab is four weeks old he is ready for the market and must be taken before he leaves the nest. Go around in the afternoon just before feeding- time and gather up the squabs you intend to market. Their crops are then empty. Take them into the place you intend to use for killing-, and kill them either by wringing their necks, tweaking and breaking them or by bleeding them in the mouth, which is done by sticking a sharp knife in the roof of the mouth. We prefer tweaking as it avoids shedding of blood. Hang them head downward and let them cool over night. If you have a cellar, so much the better. In your cooling room nail up a piece of 2 by 4 and drive in wire finishing nails just far enough apart to catch the squabs' legs. Slip the legs between these and let them hang head downward, taking care that their bodies do not touch each other. Wherever the body of the s((uab comes in contact with an object for any length of time it forms a discolored spot, for the blood settles there. This must be avoided, as on the whiteness of the squab depends the price. In the morning thev are ready for shipping. In sum- mer pack them in layers, scattering ice on the lower layers. I'ack them in not more than six dozen lots; if vou pack more than this they are liable to crush out of shaj)e. which depreciates tlieir market value. In the winter jiack same as al)ove without the ice. If vour market wishes them (lr\- ]Mcked, pick them sron after killing and throw in a tub of ice cold water and let them remain over night, and pack as above. 22 Market Prices. E have never known the market to go under three dollars ($3.00) per dozen for first class Homer Squabs. And have seen it go as high as $9.50 in the winter, or when game birds were scarce. On application we can furnish you the names of com- mission houses in the large cities who handle squabs. We would not advise you to write them unless you have the squabs to furnish, for you will be bothered to death by their trying to buy your squabs, such is the eager- ness of the market. You had better fill your home market before shipping any, and if you live anywhere near a town of good size, vou will find that your flock must be a large one indeed before you can raise an amount sufficient to supply the demand. Hotels, Restaurants, Hospitals, Invalids and the wealthy class of Jews are all squab consumers. Our place is situated about six miles from a city, and that city has shown that it is able to consume over three hundred dozen per montii as taken from our books. We do not know the ame-unt sold by other breeders in this vicinity and there are quite a nund^er. But we do know that not one of them has made a shipment outside of tlie city. Our demand for breeders for this growing industry has become so gieat that we are now only selling culls for the market, keeping the perfect birds for breeders. If you are the first to begin in your vicinity, your ex- perience will be the same as ours, you will find yourself kept busv supplying your neighbors with young breeders for some time to come. cr 23 Estimate of Profits for loo Pairs of Selected Birds. We give below an estimate o.f the profits of lOO pair of selected breeders. This estimate is given from our own experience. We carefully weighed and kept ac- count of the grain, grit and salt required for this num- ber of birds each month, conmiencing on the first day of January. January produced 194 squabs; February, 196; March, 182; April, 194; May, 186: June, 198; July, 174; August and September moulting periods; October, 160; No- vember, 198; December, 196. Total, 1,878. Whicn were sold at $3.00 per dozen, or 25 cents each, making a total of $469.50. Feed for the twelve months amounted to $54.00. Making a total profit of $415.50. This reci rd was made by a bunch of 100 pair of se- lected Homers kept in an individual scjuab house and flying pen. If these s(|ualis had l)een kept until they were three montns old and sold as youngsters for breed- ing purposes they would have brought $1.00 per pair, and the profit would nave been almost doul)led. Re- member this estimate provides for no labor as that part we did rurselves at no cost except a small portion of our time (lailv. 24 Arrangements. N the front of the squab house cut a window two feet square so the birds can go in and out from the Hying pen. Place a door in the squab house and also one in the flying pen at any point you desire. In the corner of the flying pen place an earthen pigeon bath dish, as they are superior to either tin or galvanized iron. It is a good thing to place an earthen drinking fountain in the flying pen so that they may always have fresh water. Keep your bathing dish clean, and empty it when they are through bathing, which is usually about II o'clock in the morning. You cannot give them too much water. It is water, water, with them all the tmie In the winter our pigeons will break the thin ice to bathe. It would make you shiver to watch them. In the centre of the yard place your feeding pen. Place a couple of bowls for grit and oyster shells in some handy place in the trying pen, or in lieu of the grit you can use clean, sharp sand. We find the best grit is the "mica crystal grit," for sale in nearly every town. Do not neglect to have salt cat laying around where they can get it at all times. If you live in a cold climate where the winters are se- vere, move all the utensils we have mentioned inside the squab house during that period. Put plenty rf ]:)erches in the ?c|uab house and also in the flying pen. taking care not to place one perch under the other, for the l)ir(l will soil tlie one underneath with its droppings. Keep the pen and floor of your sfpiab house clean. whitewash your nest boxes and you will always have a good healthv lot of breeders. 25 Feeding. F you feed by hand, or, in other words, scatter the grain on the floor of the flying pen or squab house, throw no more than they will eat up clean, for the grain soon sours when it becomes damp and will make the old birds sick and will surely kill the squabs. Feed earlv in the morning and between four and five in the afternoon. We have gained better results by using the automatic feeder. You do not hear the hungry squeaks of the young through the day when the feed is always before them, and need not be afraid of increasing your grain bills, for a pigeon will eat no more than it needs. It is also much less trouble as you need not fill it until it is entirely empty. Throw a bunch of nesting material in the squab house consisting of the following: clean straw, hay, or dry grass, coarse weeds, or tobacco stems. We prefer the tobacco stems, and so do the birds, as they have a tend- ency to keep off vermin such as mites, lice, etc. The birds will build their own nests and bring out their own voung without any further assistance from you. As soon as tne young are taken from their nests, throw the old nesting material away, and whitewash the nest l)ox, and it is ready for use again. Having followed these instructions you cannot help but reahze the most flattering success. Kinds of Food and How to Feed it. After a good deal of experimenting, we finally settled down on the following feed and method of feeding. In 26 winter four days of cracked and whole corn, two days of red wheat, and one day of Kaffir corn. Hemp seed or Canada ]:)eas may be substituted for the Kaffir corn. In the summer four days of the red wheat, two days of tlie cracked corn, and one day of the Kaffir corn. This gives them a change of diet which always gives them a healthy appetite, .\lways be sure to leed the red wheat as the white wheat will give them the diarrhoea. Do not buy your feed in large quantities as it may become sour or moldy. Always feed the best and your squabs will be so much finer and larger that it will n\)re than pay the difference in the cost of the grain. The greatest difficulty we have had is to get enoug'li lime into the bird to create the shell, until \vc began lo use Salt Cat, which not only furnishes lime, but all the salt that is needed. Still it is not injurious to the birds to have a lump of rock salt laying on the floor in front of them at all times, as they always relish a change, even thouoh thev receive the same food in another wav. 28 Diseases of Pigeons. E have heard and read of a good many so- called pigeon diseases and remedies, but in our experience have only encountered the fol- lowing: (ioing light or consumption, canker and S(M-e throat, and what is known as the wing disease. Going light is an incurable disease, and is only found among inbred birds (^r those that are hatched during the moulting season. These birds are always of a poor con- stitution, and are a detriment to any flock. Always kill them, for, while the disease is not contagious, they will mope around for several weeks and die in the end. Canker is a disease which usually makes its appear- ance in the summer time, or during the moulting period. The throat becomes sore and a cheese like formation lodges there, the eyes become watery and swollen; they also have a bad diarrhoea. It is caused from feeding too much corn, which is very heating to the blood and causes gastritis, which in turn conununicates the poison to all ]Kirts of the body. l\enie(ly — bVed wheat and Kaffir corn. Cut out the conuui n corn entirely. Put in their drinking water one-half ounce sul])hate of iron to one gallon of water, and force them to drink it b_\' keep- ing that and no other water beiore them constantlv. Wing disease is a little corn that f rms on the wing joint. Catch the bird, ])ull out some of the wing feathers so that it cannot fly and ])aint the affected parts with iodine every third day until cured. Lice and mites are vermin which kdll squabs in short order. Keep the nests cle;m and well whitewashed, and if they then appear, sprinkle well with coal oil. It will not hurt the S(jual)s. 29 Another very good remedy is to place a moth ball in the nest with the young- squab. This will effectually set- tle them. A tablespoonful of Xaptholenium to every two gallons of water in the bath pan will rid the old birds of vermin, as they do not dust themselves like a hen but bathe in the water until every feather is saturated. J. Y. Johnson says: "My pigeon ranch (in California) produces close to 3,500 squabs a month. It contains 7,500 pair of adult pigeons and nets me an income of $12,000 per year. Two men do all the work on the pig- eon ranch. Every morning rounds are made and all the marketable squabs are selected. In the evening these are dressed. We get from $2.00 to $4.00 per dozen gen- erally, and when they are scarce they sometimes bring as hig-h as $10.00 per dozen." We will say right here that if Mr. Johnson can do that well on a bunch of common pigeons which are allowed to fly over the country at large, that if he had Homers in confinement he could double his income. xA.t least seventy per cent, profit is the estimate made by Mr. J. H. Summers, one of the best known Eastern breeders. When asked as to his judgment of the profit in squab raising from a most conservative estimate he makes the following statement: "The squab raising industry without doubt pavs a larger percentage of profit on the capital invested than many kinds of business of the present time. Take for in- stance 500 pairs of good breeding birds. Good breeders will have at least eight pairs of squabs a year, and some average more. Takmg it at the low rate of eight pairs per year. 500 pairs of birds would have 4,000 pairs of squabs. Sup])ose at the end of the year that the 3.500 30 pair had been sold at 35 cts. per pair for squabs, the re- ceipts will amount to $1,225, ^"<^1 subtracting- the cost of feeding- your old birds, which would be about $390.00, or at the rate of i 1/2 cents i)er ]:)air per week, vour profit would amount to $835.00, or about seventy per cent on an investment of $1,000.00." Mr. Sununers has given a very low estimate, we beat that (jn the average \\ith all our squab houses, to say nothing- of our selected breeders. Twelve Days O'.d. 31 Questions and Answers. O. Can I use any kind of a Iniiltling for a squab house? A. Yes, any kind of a building can be converted into a squab house. O. How can I change a hen house into a squab house? A. Raise it a foot off the ground, and l)uikl a good tight floor in it, cut in a door and \vin(k:)\v on the s(iuab liouse side of the flving pen. Q. How shah I I)uikl my flying pen? A. Buikl it on tlie south side of tlie squab house, so that the birds can fly from the house to the pen, l)uikl it the full length of the house and as high as the under side of the eaves, make it any width you wish and cover it with one-inch mesh wire, place a door in the mesh, so that you can enter pen easily. O. How many piegons can T get in a house, say 12 by 16 feet and ten feet high? A. You can get in as many pigeons as you can find room for nest boxes. O. How shall I build mv nest boxes? A. r>uild them in rows against the walls of your squab house, as high as you like, and make them 12 inches scjuare and 12 inches deep, lluild them like the pigeon h.oles in a post-ofiice. O. Sb.all I whitewash my scpiab house and nest boxes? A. Yes, whitewash as often as you wish, the oftener the better. 32 Q. Can I use the common piegon for a squab breeder? A. Yes, but we would advise you not to do so, as the common pigeon only raises four or five pair a year in confinement, and the squabs are classed as culls and seldom l)ring over $1.25 per dozen and not much demand at that. The feed and care of a connnon flock costs just as much as a good flock, and the squabs do not bring more than a third of the money. O. What kind of pigeons is the best for squab breeding? A. The HOMER by all means. His squabs are the largest, demand the greatest, he raises from nine to ten pair (20 scjuabs) per year, is strong and healthy, and eats no more than a common bird. You can always get from 25 cents to 40 cents apiece for them. O. Can you send me ten females and two males? A. No. one male will only mate with one female. O. Will mv birds go right to laying as soon as I get them? A. Xo. the birds take from two to six weeks to settle down, and i)ick their nest boxes. When they do this, they work on in the same nest boxes until they die. O. At what age do they become useless as breeders? A. A HOMER cantiot be depended on after he is 12 years old, although we have some older than that who are doing well. We do not recommend y u to keep them after that age. 33 O. Shall I build nests for them the same as I would for a hen? A. No, throw some hay. straw, or tobacco stems in the :?(|uab house and they will build their own nests. O. How ;-hall 1 feed the voung' squabs? A. You must not try to feed them, the parent birds do that. When they are four weeks old they are able to feed themselves. Q. How long after the squabs are hatched before they are ready for the market? A. When they are fully feathered, from three to four weeks of age, it is then time to take him from the nest and send him to the market. O. How shall I get them ready for the market? A. Go around just before feeding tmie each afternoon, and gather up the squabs that are ready for market while their crops are empty, kill them either by breaking the neck, or stick them in the roof of the mouth, then hang them up l^y tlie feet and let them cool until morning when they are ready for packing and shipping. O. How shall I pack them? A. Have boxes made to hold three, six, nine and twelve dozen lots, pack the squabs in these end for end. taking care to put in clean paper so that they will not come in contact with the box and make them taste of the wood. O. How soon will I get my money after shipping? A. As soon as the birds arrive at their destination, vcu L. of C. 34 will get the money by return mail. Commission men are very prompt in remitting. They are afraid some one else will pick you up, and they want the squabs. Q. Are squabs classified? A. Yes, they are classified in three classes. No. i, white, weighing from lo to 12 pounds per dozen. No. 2, mixed, weighing from 8 to 10 pounds per dozen. No. 3. dark, weighing from 5 to 8 p:unds per dozen. These ^([uabs are govvrned by the New York market quotations. O. Where can I get these prices from time to time? A. Write to E. B. Woodward, 302 Greenwich St., New York, N. Y., and enclose stamp for answer. O. Shall I send my squabs to the market dressed, cr with the feathers on? A. That will depend on where you market them. Some markets want them dressed, and others with the feathers on. O. How often shall I feed the birds, and what? A. Feed them every morning early, and every after- noon, about four in the winter and abcnU five in the summer. In the winter feed five days ot cracked corn and two days of red wlieat. in the summer reverse the mode. You can feed millet, kaffir corn, hemp seed, and Canada peas at any time as dainties. O. How shall I give them drinking and bath water? A. Give them plenty of pure water in a common poul- try- drinking fountain, and fcr baths get a stone- ware bath dish and fill every morning. O. Do they need grit and salt? A. Yes. give them plenty of sharp sand or "'[Mica Crys- MAR 6 1905 36 tal" grit. Put salt cat where tliey can get to it at any time. O. What do you give tliem for Hme? A. (iive them plenty of ground oyster shells. O. Are pigeons subject to disease? A. Yes, if they are not properly fed and cared for they will l)e subject to canker, caused fr(^:u feeding too much corn in the summer, and a disease called going light, caused from not salting, and a lack of grit. If fed and cared for according to the direc- tions given by us either disease can be avoided. O. r)o pigeons have mites, lice and other vermin? A. Yes, but it is easy to get rid of them. Keep your nest boxes clean, and wdien the squabs are a week old, drop a moth ball in the nest and that will ef- fectuallv settle them. For the (ild ones put one tablespocnful naptholeum in the bath pan, and when he bathes he saturates every feather and the lice are killed out at once. Four Weeks Old. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 002 864 464 4 | ^. o^ GO' .^.NVt ^^V ^6^ a6A