.-tq ^^•^^. \ v^ .•i:;^^. % i°. "^-^^' :1K^ "--/ r^'- %.^ • « o S-, v^v •1°^ ' ^^ 'fu. c" . • « a K •^0^ ^^^ .' °*. ♦.. *-. %,♦- .-. 40* °*. ' ♦ .T. ' .,0' ^ *^!*^ . •' .^■fr'*' q, - . . T -i^A^^ l« *<* ^^ ^^ • ."4 CL v*^--*.#' "q.;-^ / ./"\. ; > a; bS-O cc C p • 03 4J CS ^ 0_ 00 ■^z .t;o ^ — a^ +^ . ? £ =^ 'm ft S A BIRTHDAY BOOK of KANSAS CITY 1821-1921 CHARLES PHELPS GUSHING ILLUSTRATED FROM PHOTOGRAPHS Kansas City, Missouri BURTON PUBLISHING COMPANY Publishers .V<2 Copyrighted 1921 by Burton Publishing Company 0C7 lu 1321 ©CI.A6247a5 Dedicated to J. C. NICHOLS Who, though not a pioneer in the work of making Kansas City "a good place to live in," has set us as brave an example, both of vision and of accomplishment, as any of our forefathers.. — By the Author. A BIRTHDAY BOOK OF KANSAS CITY We eagerly devour these days the life stories of successful men, hoping to find in them something to our personal profit. Might we not equally profit by dipping into the life story of a successful city, which won against great odds by the same kind of pluck and vision through which great men attain success? The principles which apply to individuals hold also for communities of men — whole cities. Have a look, for example, at the case of West- port Landing, a valiant little town which always was willing to pay the price of success. Before another summer rolls around the town which once in contempt was nicknamed "Westport Landing" will be celebrating her birthday with a cake of a hundred candles. Today she has the dis- tinction of being the largest city in the whole length of the Missouri Valley, or, if you except only St. Louis, in all the great plains country from the Mississippi Hiver west to the Rocky Mountains. And Page seven that she has attained such conspicuous success in so short a time is all the more remarkable because the settlement had to battle, from the very beginning, against a formidable series of obstacles. In canoes and pirogues in the summer of 1821, a little band of early day French poilus paddled up the Big Muddy — a peril- ous cruise of twenty days into the wilder- ness — and established a fur trading out- post on the banks of this turbulent river a few miles below the mouth of what was then known only as the "Kaw." (On the maps the "Kaw" is now set down as the "Kansas River," but it never has been accepted locally as the proper name of the stream.) The French pioneers built a warehouse and a few log cabins. Then they set to work to establish the settle- ment's first reputation as a hustling cen- ter for wholesale trade, jobbing and re- tailing. The petite ville had a popula- tion of only 31, but it did a volume of business all out of proportion to its puny Thus was a tradition set which has been faithfully cherished even unto the present day. By the census of 1920 the community at the mouth of the Kaw num- bers, as you may know, 324,410 on the Missouri side of the state line, and 100,- 177 on the Kansas side. (Doubtless, by this time, you have guessed that its pres- ent name is "Kansas City.") Many other Page eight American cities are ahead of it on the census lists, but the community carries on an amount of business all out of propor- tion to its size, and in volume of bank clearings ranks fifth in the entire United States, right up next to New York, Chi- cago, Boston and Philadelphia, like a ban- tam soldier mixed into a squad of six- footers. Vision told Francois Chouteau and his comrades that somewhere near the con- fluence of these two great water high- ways, one of them 3,000 miles long, a great city might some day arise. These valiant Frenchmen might even have dreamed — who knows? — that the place would become eventually what it is today — the giant of the whole Missouri Valley. The great treacherous beast of a river, which the Indians called the "Big Muddy," picked the location of Westport Landing and afterward tried time and again to de- stroy it. Chouteau and his voyageurs chose this site as a strategic situation for an outpost for fur trading — both with the trappers of the Rocky Mountains and with the Indians of the western plains^, tributary to the Kaw valley. Besides vision, this little band of pion- eers had as an inheritance of their blood a goodly store of courage — for they were Frenchmen. Does this latter declaration require to be supported? If so, it may be recounted that only last month your Page 7iine correspondent listened to Henry P. Davi- son of the American Red Cross tell of the plight and the bravery of present day France. Her people, he related, stand in dire need of a thousand and one necessi- ties of life, goods which they must for- bear to import to any great extent from the New World on account of the fright- fully high rate of exchange which we charge them upon their money. These Frenchmen, only yesterday our best pals, with whom we fought shoulder to shoulder in the deadliest war of modern times, must go wanting. "But one thing," Mr. Davison con eluded, "they don't need to import from anybody, and never did need to import — and that is couragej" Francois Chouteau and his poilus of a hundred years ago carried to the mouth of the Kaw a goodly stock of French courage. The voyageurs stuck to their guns in the lonely trading post despite hostile Indians, pestilence and flood. The treacherous, tawny, old river, a lion when enraged, was their most for- midable enemy. Barely four years after they had established themselves on its banks, a June flood swept away their warehouse and half of the houses of the settlement. With the same indomitable "Kansas City Spirit" which an older city showed in 1900, when on the eve of a na- tional political convention the hall which Page ten Kansas City had prepared for the meet- ing burned swiftly to the ground, these pioneers grimly set to rebuilding, bigger and better. For by this time their con- viction was deeper than ever that some- where in the immediate neighborhood of their settlement lay the site destined to become the queen city of the western plains. Two rival claimants for this eminence sprang up close by within the next two years. The first, founded in 1827, only six years after the French pioneers had moor- ed their canoes below the mouth of the Kaw, chose for its seat the graceful hill- tops ten miles eastward, and gloried in the name of "Independence." For thirty years or more, despite the handicap of being situated three miles in- land from the banks of the Missouri, the fame of Independence far eclipsed that of the more conveniently located French settlement. By 1831 Independence had captured most of the trade that flowed from Mis- souri River steamboats onto prairie schooners and across the plains to the great Southwest over the old Santa Fe Trail. But the little French settlement at the mouth of the Kaw stuck to its knitting. It was sure it was right, and it went ahead! Page eleven The very loveliness of the country around Independence contributed to defeat this community's ambition to become the West's "City of Destiny." Washington Irving, visiting it in 1832, wrote enthus- iastically of it to his sister: "Yesterday I was out on a deer hunt in the vicinity of this place, which led me through some scenery that only wanted a castle, or a gentleman's seat here and there interspersed to have equalled some of the most celebrated park scenery of England." It was this very loveliness that at- tracted to Independence in the early thirties an invasion of Mormons, seeking a new El Dorado. Their arrival brought on a bitter clash between Mormons and Gentiles. The Gentiles at last, by force of bloodshed and harsh legislation, won an indisputable victory. Despite this civil war. Independence held its supremacy of the commerce of the river until the early 'forties. Then an- other rival, striving eagerly to become the Port of the West, and ambitiously nam- ing itself after the heart's desire "West- port," began to menace Independence with defeat. Westport, like Independence, lay inland three or four miles, as if she, too, feared to choose a site close to the tawny river. Westport used the docks of the old French Page Hvelve fur trading settlement as the landing place for her goods, and in derision she nicknamed our heroine *'Westport Land- ing." All the little town on the levee an- swered to this was: "We can stand it!" The river settlement cast about for a suitable name and decided officially to The Missouri River levee, the site of "Westport Landing," as it is today. Photo shows docks of the barge line to St. Louis and the new bridge. — Gushing. style herself, simply as "Kansas." In 1839 the townsite was first surveyed and the plots offered at public auction. They sold under the hammer for the not too staggering total sum of $4,220. Again the river of destiny stepped in and did something dramatic. It burst over its banks in 1844 with the greatest Page thirteen n flood ever known in the Big Muddy's tur- bulent history, carried off Monsieur Fran- cois Chouteau's second fur warehouse, and then, tearing madly on downstream, swept away the docks and warehouses at Wayne City, ten miles below, which serv- ed as the landing place for steamboat shipments to Independence. Westport gained with this blow the final supremacy over her downstream rival, In- dependence. Preparations for the im- pending war with Mexico were booming local business, because the neighborhood of the Kaw's mouth was the nearest port to the southwestern border. Westport was quick to seize the opportunity and nail it down. Destiny then smiled upon Westport for as many years — a dozen or more, at least — as she had smiled upon Independence. For a few more years Independence strug- gled gamely and desperately. She rebuilt the Wayne City docks and warehouses and showed further enterprise by construct- ing what is reputed to be the first rail- way ever laid down west of the Missis- sippi — three and a half miles of wooden track bound with steel bands. This ran (or, rather ambled — for it was operated by mule power) from Wayne City to In- dependence Square; and it was opened in time to bid for the traffic of gold seekers in '49 pouring overland toward California. Independence scored another technical Page fourteen victory by being named in 1850 the east- ern terminus of the West's first overland mail route, a stage line 1,200 miles long, to Salt Lake City. But the jig was up and Westport gloat- ed when in another year the railway had to be abandoned. The tricky old river was forming a sandbar in front of the Wayne City docks, and boats could no longer land there. Westport was so jub- ilant about the victory that she almost forgot to laugh at "Westport Landing" in 1850 for making bold to christen her- self the "TOWN of Kansas," and the very next year putting on further airs with the title of "CITY of Kansas." Another big rush of business came along in 1854 when the government threw open Kansas Territory to settlement. The neighborhood of the Kaw's mouth was the gateway to the homeseekers, pouring in by the hundreds on Missouri River steamboats from the east. The decade, 1850-1860, became the "golden era" of Missouri River steam- boating. At the peak of the traffic, in 1857, the little "City of Kansas" counted 729 boats arrive and depart from her levee. About this time a prophet arose in the land. His name was William Gilpin. In 1855, while Westport was yet the favorite of Destiny in the west, Gilpin drew a map Page fifteen C , o - LIBRARY OF CONGRESS M 014 571 559 3 A 4 ^^r Wr