TT 520 .B97 Copy 1 T. W. BYBMBB NEW AM) IMPt©¥EB SYSTIM, WITH THE:::^5^ DRESS-MAKER'S MODEL MEASURE SHEET. Price of System CoDiDlete witli Printed Instructions, - $10.00 Oral Instructions, Extra, from $3.00 to - - - $io 00 Reasonable Discounts allowed to Ai:;ents ami Teachers. For particulars, address T. W. BYRNES, Manitowoc, Wis. li /— THE DEESS-M^KES'S Ihstkugti®! MmK, — W'AS INCLUDED IN-w— T, W. BYRNES' ■ NEW AM IMPEOYIB SYSTEM, DRESS-MAKER'S MODEL MEASURE SHEET. BY THOMAS W. BYRNES. This system is the result of several years' study and practical experience in Dress and Cloak-Mak- ing and includes the following articles : A Draughting Apparatus in two parts, viz : Front and Back. An Instruction Book containing a Model Measure Sheet with illustrations and directions for taking Measurements, directions for Draughting, with Charts and Figures for reference, and a Measur- ing Tape. ^~ It is designed to supply a want generally ac- knowledged by the public, viz: a convenient and re- liable system, at a moderate expense, by which ev- ery person of ordinary understanding can readily draught and cut Dresses, Cloaks, Coats, &c., from actual measurement. The application of the Draughting Apparatus to practical use has been thoroughly tested and de- monstrated by practical experiments, and nothing has been spared to render it at once the most per- fect, convenient and reliable. It will be found adapted to all the changes of Fashion as well as to all Measurements, and by carefully following the directions, a perfect fit can be obtained in every case, without alteration, where the figure is not positively deformed. T. W. BYRNES, Inventor. Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1882, by Thos. W. Byrnes, in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. -V PRACTK AL SUGGESTIONS. (i.) Measurements. — Measures should not be taken over collars, waist trimmings, or any thing thick or clumsy. The different measures should be always taken in their proper order according to the measure sheet and always in the same manner, so that ac- curacy may be attained by practice. All measures should be taken snug and easy, neither drawing the tape measure tight nor holding it slack. Whether for dresses, sacks or cloaks, the dress measurement is all that is necessary. For circulars and some other garments the chest measure over the arms is necessary and may be in- serted on the measure sheet, in the same space with the chest measure. (2.) Linings. — It is economy to use a good qual- ity of lining in dress-making, as the fit of a dress depends to some extent on the quality of the lining used, as well as the cut^ and it is better to have the waist and sleeves lined with the same material. (3.) Draughting and Cutting. — A good way to draught a lining is to unfold the lining, refold it crosswise and press it smoothly before commenc- ing to draught. When draughting, always bear in mind the fact that the different sections and parts of the draught- ing apparatus are not intended to serve as stereo- typed models in all cases, but that something is left to the good taste and judgment of the dress-maker, — 4— and that the proportion of the sections and parts of the draught may be varied, at pleasure, from that of the corresponding sections and parts of the ap- paratus by enlarging or diminishing any one or more of the sections or parts by the scales on the apparatus at the different points of measurement, and diminishing or enlarging one or more of the remaining sections or parts proportionately at the same points of measurement. Draught the Front first on that portion of the goods near you ; then change the lining end for end and draught the Back on the other portion, com- mencing as near the top or left hand edge as the side line of the first side form in the front draught will permit. (See chart No. i.) The bust form on the front line should be dis- pensed with in draughting cloaks, loose-fitting and children's garments. Should any measure exceed the largest measure included in the scale on the corresponding form of the draughting apparatus, add as many inches to the form, by the scales, as the measure exceeds the scale. In draughting cloaks and over garments the dress measurement may be enlarged at every point ex- cepting the neck, and at any time after the draught is completed the neck may be enlarged, re-draught- ed, or cut out any shape and size required. Before commencing to cut, baste or pin the lin- ing securely, so that like parts will be cut exactly alike. When cutting, allow for seam everywhere excepting at the neck and arms-eye. — 5— It is better to cut out the bust darts and all shape seams. (4.) Basting. — Good basting is quite essential to success in dress-making. In basting the lining on to the top or dress ma- terial, lay it smoothly and so that the top and the lining will be cut on the sajne grain, and the differ- ent sections of both top and lining should be per- fectly straio/it 7ulth the grain of fJie goods at the ivaist line. In basting the lining on to the top, take cross stitches about one-fourth of an inch long and about one inch apart. In basting up the seams, make short and sub- stantial stitches. In basting the shoulder seams, hold the back toward you and very full from the neck down about half way, and the front tight; then the back tight and the front full the remainder of the way. Sleeves, collars, neck bands, dress braids, and gored sides should be held toward the person when basting. The back should be held toward the person when basting the side seams, and before basting the side seams the garment should be tested at the chest, waist and hip lines, according to the measurement at these points. The bias or gored sides of skirt breadths should always be turned toward the back. (5.) Waist Seams.— Clip the waist seams exactly on the waist line, trim the raw edges off evenly and over cast or bind them with narrow ribbon. The edges of the shoulder seams should be turned toward the front and the edges of the side seams toward the back. (6.) Whalebone Pieces. — Make the whalebone pieces about three or four inches in length and sew them in with the dart seams. (7.) Whalebone Casings. — The whalebone cas- ings should be made by hemming down bias strips of the lining on the seams, after the raw edges are finished. (8.) Hanging Loops. — Ever\' waist should be furnished with hanging loops veil secured at the side seams. (9.) Designs. — In selecting designs, those with high collars, large sleeves, trimmed waists, basques and belts in general, full skirts, horizontal stripes and trimmings, outstanding ruffles, large sash bows, &c., will be found becoming to tall, slender figures, and those with opposite features becoming to short, stout figures, while as a general -ule all designs are becoming to what are termed perfect figures. testing the draughts. (I.) A front draught for close-fitting garments y measured across on the line of the bust from the vertical line at the "chest" mark, to the front, ex- clusive of the bust form on the front line, should equal about one-third of the chest measure ; and measured across from the side of the arm's-eye to the front line, it should equal one-half of the exact width of the front. — 7— The different sec. ions measured across on the line of the waist and taken together, should equal about one-third of the ''waist" measure. The different sections measured across on the line of the hip, and taken together, should equal about one-third of the "hip" measure. The "front to -vaist," "waist to bust," "front to shoulder," "shoulder" and "under arm," should cor- respond with the measurement at these points. (2.) A back draiight for close-fitting garments, measured across on the line of the shoulder blades, from the vertical line on the "'chest" mark, to the back line, should equal about one-sixth of the "chest" measure; and measured across from the side of the arm's-eye to the back line, it should equal one-half of the exact width of the back. The different sections measured across on the line of the waist, and taken together, should equal about one-sixth of the "waist" measure. The different sections measured across on the line of the hip, and taken together, should equal about one-sixth of the "hip" measure. The side, measured from the lower end of the arm's-eye line to tiie mark at the lower end of the side line, should equal three-fourths of an inch more than the "under arm" measure. The back to waist and back to shoulder measures should correspond with the measurement at these points. DIRECTIONS FOR DRAUGHTING. Directions for draughting Front (including under- arm gore) for dresses, cloaks, coats, &c., reference being had by letters and numbers^ to corresponding letters and numbers in Fig. i of Chart No. i here- with. (i.) The Chest and Neck. — Lay the front part of the Draughting Apparatus lengthwise on the mate- rial to be draughted with all the sections unfolded and the neck and shoulder forms toward the left hand; fold sections "F" and ''G" upward, place the edges of the large slot in section "A" straight to a thread, mark the chest measure by the scale on the bottom edges of ''F" and "G," as folded, line the left edge of "A" from the neck form down to the mark on the edge, line the side edges of the slot in "A" and mark the lines i, 2, and 3, (see point a and heavy lines i, -?, J,) with the scales on the top of the slot in "A," place the ''neck" measure at the upper end of line "2," have the edges of the slot straight to a thread, mark the neck measure by the scale on the top of the neck form and line the neck. (See point b and heavy line ^.) (2.) The Front to Waist, Waist to Bust, Waist to Shoulder, and Shoulder. — After lining the neck form, mark the Front to Waist measure by the scale on the left edge of the large slot in "A." Slide the bottom of the slot even with the mark, the side edges of the slot straight to a thread; mark the — 9— waist line at the front by the bottom edges of sec- tions "D" and ''E." ( See point c and heavy lines 5 and (5.) Mark the Waist to Bust measure by the scale on the left edge of the slot in "D;" mark the Front to Shoulder measure by the scale on the right edge of the slot in "A" (see points d, e); unfold "F" and "G;" slide the top of the slot even with the Front to Shoulder mark, the top of the neck form on a thread even with the side of the neck, the edges of the slot straight to a thread; mark the shoulder measure by the scale on the shoulder form; line the shoulder form from the "neck" mark even with the "shoulder" mark. (See point/ and heavy line 7.) (3.) Anns-eye. — Fold section "C" and with the straight edge draw a vertical line through the chest measure mark and straight to a thread; with the scale on the top of the arms-eye form, place the arms-eye measure at the end of the shoulder, place the same measure by the scale on the bottom of the arms-eye form, at the vertical line, and line the arms-eye from the end of the shoulder down to the bottom of section "C" (see heavy lines 8,g)', draw a cross line straight to a thread and extending to the right from the lower end of the arms-eye line for the bottom of the arms-eye (see heavy line io)\ mark the vertical line up about three-fourths of an inch higher than the bottom of the arms-eye and with the curved edge on the left of "F," draw a curved line from this mark to the bottom of the arms-eye. (See point g and heavy line 11.) (4.) The Bust Darts.— Yo\A "D," place the lower edge of "A" up to the Waist to Bust mark, the side edges of the slot in "A" on lines "2" and "3;" un- fold "D;" line the left edges of "A" and "D" from the mark on the left edge of "A" down to the bot- tom of "D" (see heavy Une I2]\ fold "E;" line the right edge of "D" from the top down for the first dart line; line the lower edge of section "B" and mark the "dart's taper" by the scale (see heavy lines I J, 14, and point //); slide the top of the second dart form up to the "dart's taper" mark, the side edges of the slot in "A" straight to a thread, and line the left edge of section "F" for the second dart line; unfold "E," place its lower edge on the waist line between the two dart lines so that the space on the waist line between the first dart line and the left edge of "E" will be a trifle narrower than the space on the waist line between the second dart line and the right edge of ''E," mark the width of "E" on the waist line and with the curved edges on the right and left of "E" complete the darts. (See heavy line 75, points i,j\ and heavy lines t6, //.) (5.) The Underarm Seam. — Fold section "G," place the top end of the scaled edge on the right of section "F" at the bottom of the arms-eye, the edge straight to a thread, mark the "under-arm" measure by the scale and line the edge from the bottom of the arms-eye down to the under-arm mark for the first seam-line (see point k and heavy line Zc?); with the straight edge on the left of the slot in "F," draw a cross line extending to the right from the first seam-line at the "under-arm" mark and straight to a thread, and a similar line from the end of the arms-eye line, at the same time marking off the de- sired width of seam, (which is usually about four inches by the scale on the edge of the slot,) on the cross, line at the under-arm mark and on the cross- line at the bottom of the arms-eye and half the width of this seam on the cross line at the end of the arms-eye line (see lines ig, lo, 20, and points /, ifi, Ti); draw a second seam line from the mark denoting the width of seam, on the cross line at the bottom of the arms-eye, down even with the mark denoting the width of seam on the cross line at the under-arm mark, draw a curved line from the mark on the cross line, at the end of the arms-eye line, down to the upper end of the second seam line. (See heavy lines 21, 22.) (6.) T/ie Waist and tJic Side Line. — Place the point on the bottom and left of "F" as many inches, by the scale on the lower edge of "F," to the right of the second dart line as the under-arm seam is wide, the lower edges of "F" and ''G" on a level with the Under-arm mark and mark the "Waist" measure by the scale on the bottom of ''G" (see points te N m m Xi- -* PQ h* i-c ro ■^ o o O 3 C ^ ^ ^ d c 7^ c^ e4 r/ c^ c