'B OOO G825 ^ opy 1 GREENING'S TWENTIETH CENTURY rruil dfowdrr"" ^"^ ' By CHARLES E. GREENING H^Hbi ^^^L -^^^■;.'*-'^^^^S| iM^' ^. . ^^'-" *W^i ii i -ft.- '■■ ^"!*a^;v^J^yg^J^K^^^^^^^^^^^^r^ajB^_ ■./,;■./*. ■-. r. .'¥- ' -^v^^HI^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^I Chas. E. Greening CHAPTER 1. S — Treatise on Transplanting, 1 oil Preparation, Pruning, £ic. ■ CHAPTER 2.— Treatise on in^ of the Ore Care and Prun- bard CHAPTER 3. — Treatise on Marketing Fruit CHAPTER 4.— Treatise on Surroundings Beautifying the of the Home . . CHAPTER 3.— Treatise on Tree Insects 1 Published by The Greening Bros. Nursery Company, Monroe, Mich. Copyrighted 1904 AMJE«F,CA'S GREATEST NURSERIES. r ^ — r^'] — ' ' i-x^V- — - — ^-^^:7 PRICE 30 CENTS GREENIIVG BROS,' HUMBLE BEGINNING IN 1S83. As poor boys we started our modest beginning in 1883. We lacked money, experience, knowledge and education. We had an inheritance of honesty, uprightness, energy, alertness, and a willingness to learn and work, and above all a profound confidence in our ability. We think our achievements show a wonderful possibility "to win in open competition." To Our Patrons and the Public: We are almost daily besieged with questions relating to Planting, Pruning, Cultivation, Soil, Spraying, Gathering, Marketing, Planting the Lawn, Trees, Plants, etc. Inquiries have been constantly increasing from year to year in the progress of our business until, finally, we are brought face to face with the problem of pre- paring a work which will cover the questions usually asked. To furnish this in- formation in a concise and convenient form, the author has prepared with much care this work, entitled "Greening's 20th Century Fruit Growers' and Landscapers' Guide." The information herein contained is gathered from a life-long experience in nursery work and fruit growing and can be referred to with utmost confidence. In the preparation of this "Treatise" the writer has been guided largely by his own personal experience and knowledge, and the information gathered in becoming associated with prominent horticulturists while giving lectures on topics relating to horticulture. It is written in the plainest of language, so that any person of ordinary intelligence can read and thoroughly understand it. We believe that no apology is due for the use of so many pictures, which are not only very beautiful, but which also furnish ma- terial for study to any one interested in horticulture. FOR THE OVERWORKED BUSINESS AND PROFESSIONAL MAN, for people living in crowded cities, and for all who need nature's remedies to build up a broken-down constitution, nothing ofifers more real health-giving enjoyment, recre- ation and fun than a country home, lined and dotted with beautiful trees and shrubbery; an orchard or a garden of choice fruits — the food of God's own giving — the free use of ripe, fresh fruits; a stroll out in the open air among the trees, where nature's alteratives and sedatives are abundantly supplied. To those, this book will be a welcome guest in its handy and condensed form. FOR FRUIT GROWERS AND FARMERS this book will lead the way to success in fruit growing, and spare them much worry when in need of advice. It will save them many costly experiments, and will help to increase their profits. The latest methods and practical ideas are brought out; many practical and useful hints are presented, boiled down to occupy the least possible space, for busy people to read. The Greening Bros. Nursery Co., Monroe, Mich. NURSERYMEN. FRUIT GROWERS.; HOKHGUtTtlfclSTS, PUBLISHERS. % Greening* s 20th Century Fruit Groioers* and Landscapers* Guide* 1 S'i'f ai , ^Hra &.'*'■■•■' ■. ■jjdii ]S9^hH^^IH^H 1 1 w^'''l\^>W^^^^'^"^W' HHHPa J'^lw^mmBsK^^SBrl 1 I _ ' ■ T ffl5!!^jH p^ PP ■r-: .■:,....,.-..:- -.. ■ .,, . - '. ••^-■"-^'^?***^ ^^"■^SSsKm raBS— B A MODEL ORCHARD OF GREENING'S TREES. Mr. Henry Flater, of Findlay, Ohio, is the proud possessor of the orchard above shown. It was planted in 1898, and consists of rows of apple trees with peaches planted in between. Attention is called to the almost perfect form of the trees, a result of pruning from the beginning under our system explained in our "Treatise on Orcharding." All of the trees in the orchard are from our nursery. Notice the splendid system of pruning and heading-in for a well-balanced crown and substantial frame- work of the branches to carry a heavy crop of fruit.- r Greening's Twentieth Century L Fruit Growers' and Landscapers' Guide J By CHARLES E. GREENING -^jj Chapter One TREATISE ON TRANSPLANTING, ^ ■'■ SOIL PREPARATION, PRUNING. &c jgj Preparation of Soil Before Planting In the preparation of soil for an orchard, let us first giA^e attention to improving the condition of the soil. In the first place, let it be put down as a settled fact that stable manure is the only all- round and most perfect fertilizer that can be " found. It should be applied freely and turned under before planting. A green crop turned under, such as peas, corn, buckwheat, cow-peas or clover, will be found of inestimable benefit. Soils rich in plant food, such as new land, old meadows or pasture lands, require little if any manure at planting time; such lands should, if possible, be planted to hoed crops the year before. The orchard being planted for a lifetime, care in preparing the soil and selecting land adapted for the purpose should not be overlooked. Work the land deep and thoroughly before planting. If in a yard where a plow cannot be used, have the ground spaded deep for several feet around, and mix in with the soil some thoroughly rotted manure. Drainage on wet soils is necessary; orchard trees will not thrive on wet lands. In the matter of selecting a site for one or more kinds of fruit, the question of soil and loca- tion is of prime importance. An elevated location having good surface and air drainage is in most instances preferable to level lands. Underdrain- age on level lands is necessary for good results, and makes the soil loose, fertile and warm. It is a mistake to plant fruit on low, wet lands. Apples, peaches, plums, quinces and cherries succeed best on a gravelly or light soil, while pears and grapes will do best on heavy soil. I Selecting a Site JS'f or an OrchardJ^ Fruit \is nature's medicine — It will cure all ills except laziness. Greening^s 20th Century Fruit Groivers^ and Landscavers^ Guide. ■'ife:;.:';^-.C .,«"/>■■ ■ ,1, '•^'.^ GREENING'S SILVER MAPLE AVENUE. In our untiring ambition and passionate desire to improve and beautify our surroundings, we have not overlooked the public highway, and have paid out thousands of dollars for the improvement of the roads leading from the nursery to the city. About one mile of macadamized road, consisting of eighteen inches thickness of crushed stone, is largely the creation of our purse and enterprise. This avenue shown in the picture is the pride of the nursery. We do not know of a tree better adapted tor roadside planting than the Silver Maple, if headed in occasionally while young. Varieties to Plant 1 The selection of varieties is very important. Mistakes in selecting varieties have been made by the best and most experienced fruit growers. It is well to observe and profit by the experience "" ^ of others. With most varieties it is purely a question of locality and soil. Experience in many things is the best teacher. We must make use of the experience of others, who have gone over the road and paid the bills for such experience. In planting an or- chard for market, it is well to consult for advice those who have experience and knowledge, observing carefully the success and failure of varieties fruiting in your vicinity. It is also well to consult a reliable nurseryman, and in this connection we cheerfully offer our services. Our extensive Experimental Orchards, our wide range of experience and knowledge in growing fruit for market, enable us to give good advice to planters. We will answer all questions in this respect honestly and fairly. Planters may consult us with the utmost confidence. r The Best Trees ^ to Plant i 1 The best trees to plant, irrespective of cli- mate and location, are such as are grown in a cool and temperate climate. The great State of Michigan is noted far and wide for its cool, mod- "* -^ erate and healthy summer climate, making it the most popular health resort of the Northern States; also for its great fruit growing industry. Being surrounded on three sides by the waters of the great lakeS; it has the most favorable climatic conditions for the growing of hardy and healthy nursery stock. Trees grown in this climate are hardier and better adapted for transplanting than those grown in milder climates, and will make lasting and profitable orchards. It is sharper than a serpent's tooth to have a thankless child, Greening's 20th Century Fruit Groivers' and Landscapers' Guide, i ■ L ■^■: '/f :,:.;' ;l:^i\ "^w^-i; . I Bap" -iwH •^■- ^■'*^^- -^^ -■• - ?^ ^^^^H^^t -^ . 1 &L^)<« »■♦» ,■ 0?«?^-.* -- V . .jjgs rs.a: iS;:- ..^^^; ^— ^ ■ M ■' '■'^ ^- M kji,J&- id A CHARMING SCENE. This photograph presents a scene of beauty such as is seldom seen. A section of our parks, show- ing fine Norway Spruce and Arbor Vitse hedges, graceful and well kept driveways, Norway maples, groups of hardy flowering shrubbery, etc. These improvements will appeal to every owner of a home. Distances for Planting Apples 30 to 35 feet apart. Pears, Standard. .. 16 to 20 feet apart. Pears, Dwarf 12 to 16 feet apart. Cherries 16 to 20 feet apart. Plums 16 to 20 feet apart. Peaches 16 to 20 feet apart. Quinces 12 to 16 feet apart. Apricots 16 to 20 feet apart. Grapes 8 feet apart. Gooseberries 4 to 6 Currants 4 to 6 Raspberries, Red.... 2 x 7 Raspberries, Black.. 3 x 7 Blackberries 3 y^ 7 Strawberries 1x4 feet apart, feet apart, feet apart, feet apart, feet apart, feet apart. Number of Trees and Plants to an Acre At 4 feet apart each way 2723 At S feet apart each way 1742 At 6 feet apart each way 1210 At 8 feet apart each way 681 At 10 feet apart each way 435 At 12 feet apart each way 302 At 16 feet apart each way 170 At 18 feet apart each way 134 At 20 feet apart each way 109 At 25 feet apart each way 70 At 30 feet apart each way 50 At 33 feet apart each way 40 Immediately after receiving your trees or plants from the nursery, moisten thoroughly and wrap or cover to prevent drying out. Bring them home at once and heel in without delay. Cover all the roots good and deep and moisten the soil if necessary. Strawberries, raspberries and black- berries should be kept in cellar well dampened until ready to plant. Do not permit the stock to become injured by exposure at any time before planting. The roots of trees, grapevines, gooseberries and currants should be carefully pruned before planting. Use a sharp knife and remove all the broken and bruised roots. Cut back all roots _^ from the under side, leaving roots from six to ten inches in length. With most of our orna- mental trees, and especially evergreens, as little root area should be cut away as practicable. It is sharper still to have no Winter Bananas to eat. M Root Pruning -^ Before Planting =^ Greening^ s 20th Century Fruit Grotoers^ and Landscapers*^ Guide, GREENING'S FORMAL HORTICULTURAL GARDENS. These gardens represent a perfect dream of beauty and elegance. They are the admiration of the most fastidious visitor, the ideal of the beautiful in tree, lawn, shrub, hedge, etc. The artistic arrange- ment of grounds and buildings, beautiful parks, handsome avenues, fine driveways and walks, our excellent system of waterworks, and numerous other things to be seen at the nursery, give an impressive example of what human energy and American spirit may accomplish in the course of a few years. These gardens mark the place where only a few years ago was a wet ravine with rail fences, burdocks, and a wild undergrowth of brush. It required thousands of loads of good soil and much thought and expense to resurrect it from a wilderness to its present condition. ^ ^ The work of pruning the tops of trees may be done either before or after planting. If done after planting, care should be exercised not to loosen the trees in the ground. We advise top pruning of grapes and small fruits after planting. Pruning Apple, Pear, Plum and Cherry. Prune off all branches except the upper three or four; these cut back to spurs about six inches in length. Good judgment is necessary in selecting branches for the crown, such as will form an evenly balanced head. Pruning Peach Trees. Cut back the entire top to three feet from the ground after being planted; prune off all branches, leaving four or five spurs of about two inches at the top. In other_words, trim to a straight whip with a few spurs at Crown Prunio^ at Planting Time =^ the top, two inches long, inches lower. Peach trees of smaller grades should be headed six A wooden square is made out of fence boards eight feet long, dressed and perfectly straight, and these are nailed so as to form a true triangle. No matter what the shape of the field is, always begin staking out on a true square, and for this purpose the planting square will be of excellent service. By sighting across the field over _^ the stakes on the planting square, a perfect square of the orchard is obtained. The classical garden is governed by special laws of harmony and rhythm. Greenin g^ s 20th Century Fruit G roovers' and Landscapers^ Guide, GROUP OF NORWAY MAPJLES — (Greenlni^r's Park.) ■ Among the beauties of our grounds are a cluster of^ Norway Maples, planted near the residence of C. E. Greening, for shade. A charming place under these trees of perfect form and elegance, where through its leaves you may scan nature's canopy in rapt tranquility. r Staking Out the ^ Orchard -^ After the field has been squared up and stakes placed at each corner of the field, stretch a rope or strong wire from stake to stake around the outside, staking the distances the trees are to '^ "^ be planted along the wire, and proceed in this way until you get around the field. The wire line is the most practical, as it will not stretch. The most practical way of using the wire line is to have a rim soldered at such distances apart as it is desired to plant, all along the wire, and in staking out, drive a stake exactly at each rim. Heeling In Before Planting Dig a trench fifteen to eighteen inches deep, loosen the lower band of a bundle, wet the trees thoroughly, place them into the trench and cover carefully, pressing the ground down with the foot. "* '^ Trees which are received in the fall for spring planting, should be heeled in during the winter eighteen inches deep, placing the trees at an angle of forty-five degrees, opening up the bundles and being careful to fill the soil well in among the roots. The trees thus heeled in should be well banked up over winter and planted out early in the spring. For heeling in over winter select a place where water will not stand, away from buildings and meadows, out in the open field, where mice will not injure them. Heeling in over winter applies to tender trees and plants, especially peach trees. At least two-thirds of the bodies should be covered. Cover trees after heeling in, with evergreen boughs if obtainable. Some fruit growers prefer fall ship- ment, and heeling in over winter; the advantage claimed is in having the stock for very early spring planting. We recommend spring delivery and planting, because we can guarantee to bring the trees to the planter as early in spring as it is advisable to plant. An orchard without Banana apples is like a Yankee dinner without pie — incomplete^ 6 Greening^ s 20th Century Fruit Groiutrs* and Landscapers^ Guide, m A BLOCK OF BANNER PEACH TREES. Here we show a block of peach trees, representing five ' months' growth from bud, of salable size, all pruned up ready to be dug with the steam digger. In this climate peach trees make a strong, hardy, healthy growth, and ripen up their wood early in the fall. Insects and fungous diseases on peach trees are things unknown in this locality. The most scrupulous attention is given the varieties so as to have them pure and true to name. A new method of pruning has a tendency to make the body smooth and symmetrical; all have straight leaders and in this respect are above comparison with Eastern or Southern grown peach trees, which are frequently very forked, crooked and knotty. The trees shown are of the Banner variety, a peach ripening after Late Crawford, and which has very superior qualities over other late ripening varieties. See colored illustration and description. I The Planting Board] This is a board six inches wide and about five feet long, notched as shown on the picture. The purpose of the planting board is to prevent the orchard from being planted out of square. In digging the hole place the board at the middle notch against the stake, and drive small stakes in end notches as shown in Fig. I. Next remove board and dig the hole, leaving end stakes in place, Fig. 2. After the hole is completed replace the board in two end stakes, placing the stake in position as shown in Fig. 3. The idea in using this device is to get the stake exactly in the place where it stood before digging the hole. In plant ing, set trees close against the stake, and always on the same side of the stake throughout the field, and your orchard will be perfectly straight in every direction. 1 Planting the Trees After the soil is. well prepared, a hole should be dug large enough to admit the roots in their natural position, say two feet square and twenty inches deep. The earth to fill in and about the roots should be well pulverized; then fill the hole with loose earth so as to bring the tree about an inch lower than it stood in the nursery; place the tree in position, fill in fine mellow soil between and around the roots with the hand, arranging all the roots in their A hedge as a boundary for a garden is very appropriate. Greening^ s 20th Century Fruit Groivers' and Landscapers' Guide, BLOCK OP WHOL,E-ROOT TWO-YEAR-OLD CHERRY TREES. Constantly having in mind the growing of the best that the judicious expenditure of time and money can bring fortli, we have given some attention to the study of fruit tree seedlings used in our business for propagating. As a result of our experiment, we have selected from among the various species of cherry seedlings the "Mahaleb," noted for its hardiness, vigor of growth and strong fruiting power. In the illustration above will be noticed a strong, thrifty growth, such as is rarely seen in a nursery. Whole-root Mahaleb seedlings of strong caliber were used in this block. The soil is a heavy black loam, underlaid with a porous clay subsoil, very rich, thoroughly underdrained, and eminently adapted for growing trees. This is supplemented by a perfect system of spraying for the prevention of any possible fungus and the destruction of insects. Can there be any doubt as to our ability to grow good trees under such circumstances ? Planting J& Grape Vines ^ natural position and packing the soil carefully around them. Fill to the top and press down the earth around the tree with the foot; throw a bucket of water around each tree to settle the ground, and scatter a little soil on top to prevent baking. Spring Planting — Level the soil around the tree after spring planting. Fall Planting — Bank up against the tree after fall planting, and remove to a level in spring. Mulching, with a covering of straw manure or leaf mould after planting, is highly beneficial and will often save the tree in dry seasons. Dwarf Pear should be planted four or five inches deeper than they stood in the nursery. Plant 8x8 feet apart for trellis and 6x8 feet for stake culture. Dig holes same as for trees. Place the vine in the hole so that the first bud next to the stem will come on a level with the surface; spread the lower layer of roots in their natural position, fill in the earth and press down the soil firmly with the foot; then spread the second layer of roots, fill in the balance of the hole and press gently with foot. After planting trim the vine back to two buds. A strong stake four feet long should be driven in at each vine to support the canes the first two years. The soil should be mellow and rich. Plant Red Raspberries 2x7 feet apart; Black Raspber- ries, Blackberries, Dewberries, 3x7 feet apart. Conrath and Columbian Raspberries, on account of their vigor of growth, ' should be planted ^— ^ 4x8 feet apart; Currants and Gooseberries, 4x6 feet apart; Strawberries for field culture, 1x4 feet, and for garden, 2 feet apart. Plant small fruits about one inch deeper than they stood in the nursery, except strawber- ries, which should be planted so as to leave the crown even with the surface — too deep planting will smother the plant. Spread the roots, in planting small fruits, as much as possible, and press the earth over the roots firmly with the. hand. If planted in the fall, cover with coarse straw manure to prevent the plants from being heaved out during the winter. After planting, cut back the tops to four to five inches from the ground. The pleasures of gardening are infinite and varied. Planting Small Fruits J^ 8 Greening's 20th Century Fruit Groivzrs* and Landscapers' Guide, — WIP^^^ KaHB«B|J'a:- --^ \_^ li ^ c,mm^es PA«^ 3 y£AM 1- AT£»U. J ^TSC w Ili_^ ( ^ ^ ' ri'i: (II. "* """*^^S OUR PRIVATE PARK SYSTEM. are pleased at the introduction of a class of Plums that can be shipped safely to dis- tant markets, naniely, the Japan sorts. We have kept "Burbank" and "Wickson" plums on shelves in the office for 30 days during warm weather. Pick before getting soft. Use a strong, stiff Climax basket, either one-fifth or quarter bushel. If shipped in large baskets, they rarely ever reach their destination in good condition. Fancy or large fruit should be wrapped in tissue paper and shipped in shallow baskets. Unless you have through freight lines, affording direct and quick transportation, we would advise shipping by express. MARKETING PEACHES. The peach business has undergone somewhat of a revolution the past 8 or 10 years. Ten years ago early sorts were considered the most profitable; lately early sorts have not only proven a failure in market but in many cases it would have paid the grower to let them rot on the trees rather than to have shipped them. We write thus to impress the reader with the importance of planting varieties that are firm, and good shippers. Such as Banner, New Prolific, Smock, Mathew's Beauty, Elberta, etc., are best for distant markets. GRADING AND PACKING PEACHES. We wish that we were able to put it down in words strong enough so that it would be fully understood by growers of peaches, how important it is that the grading and packing be done straight and carefully; also that the fruit should average evenly throughout the package in size and quality. How many growers curse the commission merchant, when they are often to blame themselves. Few realize that failures in fruit growing are often the result of crooked and careless packing. The handling, packing and marketing of fruit has become a science, and the sooner fruit growers find this out the more successful they will be in marketing their fruit products. Pick carefully by hand. Handle with greatest care, grade every package, no matter how nice they appear on top. Bring under shelter and grade from benches or use a Peach Grader. In packing shake the package gently from time to time until filled. Ship only two grades; and mark each grade on the outside of package. Sell or ship immediately after packing. Haul with spring wagon. Throw away all decayed and soft fruit rather than mix in and spoil the sale of good fruit. Go over your trees at least three times, picking the best colored and ripest each time. Consult dealers and shippers as to kind and size of package to be used, and get a full supply in time to avoid dis- appointment and loss in the shipping season. Cover fruit with a cloth to keep off dust and sun while hauling it. Sell all you can at home if you can get fair prices, and ship the balance. MARKETING CHERRIES. Pick with stems on before fruit is too ripe. De- liver or ship the same day when picked if possible. Use shallow baskets or crates for shipping. For the large Sweet Cherries good prices can be obtained if packed in small baskets to imitate California packages; nearly double the price and ofteii Clean up the back yard; then plant it to fruit. 22 Greening's 20th Century Fruit Groivers' and Landscapers' Guide, OUR PRIVATE PARK SYSTEM. more may be secured in this way. We notice that a few enterprising Michigan fruit growers are using this method of packing with great profit. The Brusseler Braune Cherry, which we have introduced recently, ripens two weeks later than the latest known cherry; it is of the largest size, fully as large as the big sweet varieties, dark brown, very productive and a very hardy tree. It will be planted extensively in the future. MARKETING QUINCES, Pick when golden yellow; handle as carefully as peaches, as every bruise will turn brown and spoil the looks of the fruit. MARKETING GRAPES. Gather when fully colored and sweet. Too many grapes are picked too green, and are a great detriment to the market early in the season. Unripe grapes are injurious to health, and are relished by no 'one. While picking handle very carefully, lay them gently into the basket. Use a strong stiff basket, eight or ten pound. Two pickings should be made, as those most exposed to the sun will ripen first. Use a spring wagon for hauling. Grapes may be kept for a considerable length of time after picking, even into the winter if handled with proper care, and if kept in a cool cellar or storage, where the air is not too damp, and the temperature even. MARKETING BERRIES. Provide neat crates and baskets. Do not be tempt- ed to use a dirty basket or crate, even if given you. In selling, everything depends on having fine, large fruit put up in attractive packages. Give each picker a stand, which can be made of lath, to hold four quart boxes, and instruct them, and see to it that they handle the berries much more carefully than they would eggs. If you have a good variety and have cared for them well, there will be very few small ones. Round up the box well and turn the stem ends of the top strawberries down. This gives a showy appearance, and is much better than topping ofif with extra large ones. Customers like to receive a full quart, and just as good berries at the bottom as at the top of the basket. For a market one hundred miles or more distant, berries must be picked in a very firm and partially green condition and shipped per express. This condition can only be learned by experience. If possible, engage one party to take all your berries at a uniform price. An enterprising groceryman for your home trade, or a reliable commission merchant if you are obliged to send to a city. You will not be likely to make a bargain in advance with a commission merchant unless your berries are well known to him. In a home market it is a great advantage to be able to deliver your berries and have them off your hands. Women are preferred as pickers, then girls, then boys. To have picking well done requires close supervision. To be successful, your picking must be well done at any cost. Avoid jolting in car- rying berries to market or depot. Have commission men report condition on ar- rival, and bring every influence to bear on railway and steamboat men to have them handle the crates carefully. MARKETING CURRANTS. Pick when fully ripe, and ship either in one quart boxes, the same as berries, one-half bushel shallow crates or boxes, or Climax grape baskets. This book is fully protected by copyright. Any infringement will be prosecuted. Greening^s 20th Century Fruit Gro HOW SHALL WE IMPROVE A] 1 The Front Yard || beautify the front yard? Let AND us The ideal front yard should have an open, grassy front, which, like a picture, should have its borders and edges frarned, and trimmed with suitable plants and trees so as to give an attractive and pleasing efiFect. The central feature of the front yard, to which all parts relate, is the resi- dence. Let us begin by planting beds of hardy flov/ering shrubbery right up against Eating Banana apples. Don't bite off more than you can swallow. 24 Greening^ s 20th Century Fruit Groivers^ and Landscapers* Guide. Bird's-eye view of our main Storage Cellar, covering an area of over 77,000 square feet, built of quarried stone, the largest and most costly building of its kind in the world. Its storage capacity is over three m.illion trees. the house in front, on either side of the entrance, and along the sides of the house where it will show from the front. For this purpose hardy shrubs are most desirable, for the reason that they are permanent and may be pruned in any form desired. Those most suitable for this purpose are the Spireas: Van Houtii, Thunbergii, Bu- maldi, Reevesii, Prunifolia; also Barberry Thunbergii, Deutzia Gracilis, Globe Flower, Hydrangea, Red Snowberry and Syringa Golden. They should be planted two to three feet apart. If a banking of tender flowers is desired, plant beds of Geraniums, Cannas, Caladiums, Asters, Nasturtiums, Heliotrope and Peonies. A hedge of Arbor Vitae, or a double row of mixed hardy shrubbery, should be planted along the edge of the lawn as a border for the sides and background. A group or border may also be dominated by any one kind of shrubbery chosen from some of the nursery catalogues. A row of Maples, Birches, Catalpas or Mountain Ash should be planted along one or both sides of the driveway leading to the barn. A spacious front yard should have a few trees scattered about in such a manner as not to obstruct the front view or detract from the beauty of the lawn. The follow- ing are most suitable: Cut-leaved Birch, Catalpas, Mountain Ash, Prunus Pissardi, Purple Fringe, Sweet Gum, Maiden Hair, Magnolia, Weir's Cut-leaved Maple, La- burnum, Purple-leaved Beech; also Weeping Elm, Tea's Weeping Mulberry, Kil- marnock Willow, etQ. Don't overcrowd or make the front yard look like a checker- board. The banking of shrubbery and flowers up against the house is in most cases amply sufficient to add beauty and grace to the front of the house. Ever- greens of the fancy varieties may be arranged in the background, either singly or in groups for fine effects. The varieties best suited for a heavy background are the Norway Spruce, American Arbor Vitae, Red Cedar, Colorado Blue Spruce, etc. The slower growing varieties, such as Tom Thumb Arbor Vitae, Hovey's Golden Arbor Vitae, Siberian Arbor Vitae, Chinese Compacta, Irish and Golden-tipped Juniper, are best suited for planting singly or in clusters. All of these may be pruned in any desired shape to please the taste. Climbing roses, Clematis and vines should be grown on wire trellises near the porches or on buildings around the place, or around the windows or doors, so as not to exclude the sun and air. We herewith give a list of shrubbery inclined to grow tall, which may be used to plant along the border of the lawn, either singly, in groups or hedge-rows. Purple Barberry, Flowering Currants, Deutzias, Dog- wood, Golden Elder, Purple-leaved Filbert, Forsythia, Upright Honeysuckle, Golden Eat fruit and enjoy life all you can, for you will be a long time dead. Greening^s 20th Century Fruit Groiuers^ and Landscapers' Guide, 25 GREENING'S BICYCLE PATH. Constantly having in mind the improvement of the highways, w& have built at our expense a bicycle path leading from the city to our nursery grounds and office, a distance of one and one-half miles. It is constructed of ground limestone, is as smooth as a floor, and is kept in perfect condition at our ex- pense. It is conceded by many that this path is one of the finest in the country. It is the delight of cyclers, and many fast records have been made on it. Spirea, Spirea Van Houtii, Lilac, Double Flowering Plum, Snowballs, Snowberry, Syringas, Weigelias, etc. The best creeping plants for brick or stone walls are the Ampelopsis Veitchii (Japan Ivy). Other climbing plants best suited for screening or covering buildings* fences and unsightly objects are the Honeysuckle, Dutchman's Pipe, American Ivy, Akebia, Wistaria, Trumpet Vine, Clematis Paniculata, Cinna- mon Vine, etc. Rose beds may be planted on the sides of the lawn or in other places where thfey will get plenty of sunlight. Attention is directed to the beautiful illus- trations showing the splendid improvements made around our own homes, buildings and parks here at the nursery. Those seeking knowledge along these lines are cor- dially invited to visit our grounds, where they may get ideas that cannot be obtained in any other way. ~~ ^ First of all, let it be understood that the ■^ The Lawn J^ \ front lawn must not be used as a temporary ^ driveway or convenient place to store wood, rubbish or ancient machinery. The ground for a lawn should be carefully prepared and enriched. It should be graded to a pleasing slope and sown with lawn grass. For a farm lawn, sow with one quart of Kentucky blue grass seed to the square rod. The surface must be even and the soil mellow. It should be rolled and mowed frequently. Water should be applied freely by means of a sprinkler wherever pos- sible. The size of the lawn should correspond to the dimensions of the house and its distance from the highway. "~~ ~~ ~ ~ ~ ^. We ought to perhaps offer an apology for The Back Yard || "'^t placing this section pertaining to the im- ::fi provement of the back yard at the head of the [ list. In many cases there are ample reasons why the work of home improvement should begin in the back yard. The first thing to do is to clean up. Remove stones, litter, rubbish, and everything unsightly that is movable. Find a suitable place for the woodpile, level the ground, take down broken fences and build new ones. Plant climbing vines against unsightly buildings, or make a screen of evergreens, or plant tall growing shrubbery, to hide unsightly objects in the back yard. Round out the corners of the lawn with graceful shrubbery. # 26 Greening's 20th Century Fruit Gronoers^ and Landscapers* Guide, Piece-Root Grafts. Whole-Root Grafts. No. 2 Seedlings. No. 1 Seedlings. PIECE-ROOT VS. WHOLE-ROOT TREES. Above is shown the piece-root and whole-root graft, also No. 1 and No. 3 fruit tree seedlings. Each one of the bundles contains the same number of grafts and seedlings. The superior value of whole- root trees must be readily apparent, even to the inexperienced, still there are nurserymen who will argue that piece-root and No. S seedlings are equal to whole-root and No. 1 seedlings. We use only the strongest whole-roqt stock and the results are most gratifying. Put them where they are needed, but be sure that they are needed. Go from one point to an- other in the easiest and simplest way possible. If you can throw in a gentle curve, it will en- hance the charm of it. For driveways use gravel, cinders, stone screenings, or tan bark. For walks, cement and stone flagging are the best materials; the next best are gravel, planks, screenings and cinders. Wooden walks should be sunk on a level with the sod so that the lawn mower may pass over without hindrance. In flower gardens a strip of sod may be left as a walk. Walks and Drives and Where to Put Them r Us Fence Question \ There should be no fence in front of the premises unless there is a reason for it. They are neither ornamental nor desirable. The money put into a fence will often buy enough stock to plant the whole yard. The street and walks sufficiently define the place. In the back yard there may be need for a fence, which may become both a screen and a shelter. Usually it can be covered with creeping vines or grape-vines. 3S Hedges Hedges add beauty to a lawn or park as jewelry does to good dress. Repeated and care- ^ w ful pruning are leading essentials which must be observed to maintain a well-kept hedge. The leading varieties of evergreens for hedges are: American Arbor Vitae, Norway Spruce and Red Cedar. Among the shrub hedges, the following are the most valuable: Privet, Japan Quince, Purple Barberry, etc. All of these may be pruned into any desired shape. In conclusion, it is the hope of the writer that his efforts in compiling this work may lead to higher ideals, greater happiness and more complete enjoyment of life. Flowers are Nature's jewels in emerald settings. Greening's 20th Century Fruit GroTvers' and Landscapers'^ Guide, 27 OVER 500,000 PEACH TREES IN BUD IN ONE SOLID BLOCK. An ocean of trees, yet only a small portion of our annual output. Our peach trees are grown from the genuine natural peach seed, gathered for us under contract in the mountains of Tennessee. Trees grow" from this seed have all the health, vigor and hardiness of the natural stock retained and pre- served, and will make profitable and lasting orchards. The average height of trees in this block when photographed, at 4 months old, was about 4 feet; such wonderful growth being the result of turning under two heavy crops of cow-peas and a liberal application of stable manure. Chapter Five TREATISE ON TREE INSECTS AND * DISEASES, SPRAYING, ETC., ETC. By PROF. L. R. TAFT and C. E. GREENING SPRAYING. — Get a spraying apparatus of a size commensurate with the area of your orchard. In the use of the various solutions, much care should be given to their proper strength and to the purity of the chemicals. See that the solutions are kept continually stirred. Use clean water. Run the solutions through a screen. Mount the apparatus on a rart or wagon. Use the celebrated "Vermorel Nozzle." Use a strong hose of sufficient length to spray one or more rows at a time. For large trees use an extension rod to elevate the nozzle up into tree.' Write us for low prices on a first-class spraying outfit. The insects which injure trees and plants obtain their food either by biting off and swal- lowing portions of the more tender parts, or by sucking the sap through a slender tube, and the remedies selected must be adapted to the habits of the insects. Thus most of those in the first group can be destroyed by covering the sections on which they feed with Paris green, while for the sucking insects something must be used which will act upon the breathing organs, or have a caustic effect upon the bodies of the insects. CODLING MOTHS. — These attack the apple, and occasionally the pear and quince. There are two broods, one of which hatches in Tune and the other in August. Spray with the Paris green mixture soon after the blossoms fall, while the calyx lobes are still open, for the first brood, and the latter part of July for the second brood. PLANT-LICE, APHIDES, ETC.— These are sucking insects. Use kerosene emulsion, strong tobacco-water, or whale-oil soap. As a rule, they are most plentiful in hot, dry seasons. Cultivate kindness — and a crop o£ Banner peaches. Destructive Insects and Remedies for Them ^ 28 Greening's 20th Century Fruit Groioers* and Landscapers' Guide* OUR PRIVATE PARK SYSTEM. Fig. 1 illustrates one of^our picturesque macadam driveways. Fig. 3 shows an effective display of shrubbery, trees, and Tom Thumb evergreens with an attractive background, of our charming Silver Maple avenue. Fig. 3 gives a fine view SAN JOSE SCALE, SCURFY SCALE, OYSTER-SHELL SCALE, AND OTHERS. — These are also sucking insects, but differ from ordinary plant-lice by secreting a shell-like covering. They travel but a short distance after hatching. Most of them have but one brood, but the San Jose scale may have three or four broods in a season, and multiplies so rapidly that millions of San Jose scale may come from one feinale insect during one season. The oyster-shell scale is one-fourth inch long, brown in color, and of about the shape of an oyster-shell. The scurfv scale is gray in color, flattened, and nearly the size of a pin-head. San Jose scale is much smaller, resembling small black "fly-specks," so small that it is rather difficult to detect thein until one becomes familiar with their appearance, except when numerous; they can be more readily distinguished with a magnifying glass. When first hatched, their color is yellow and they move about very rapidly, but in a short time a scale-like covering begins to form, resembling fly-specks. REMEDIES FOR SCALE-INSECTS.— For San Jose scale use the "sulphur, lime and salt mixture," prepared as follows: Twenty-five pounds of lime, 15 pounds of sulphur, 8 pounds of salt. Slack the lime, which should be fresh, in warm water, and keep stirring to avoid burning. When the slacking begins, sift on the sulphur and mix thoroughly. After slacking and mixing, add enough water to make a thin paste, and boil from one to two hours; then add the salt and continue the boiling for fifteen minutes, then add enough hot water to make fifty gallons. Mix thor- oughly, run through a strainer and apply the mixture while hot. This remedy should be used only while trees are dormant, March being the best month. For a summer application for the destruction of the San Jose scale, prepare this mixture in the same way, leaving out the salt. The spraying should be done very thor- oughly, so as to cover every part of the branches infected by the insects. In sections where the San Jose scale prevails, an application of the above mixture should be made each year. For the oyster-shell and scurfy scales a good remedy is to spray the trees during the winter with 6 pounds of caustic soda in 50 gallons of water. PLUM CURCULIO. — In addition to the plum, this insect attacks the peach, cherry and apple. The insects are beetles, one-eighth inch in length and brown m color. The beetles appear often before the blossoms open, and as they feed on the leaves, it is possible to poison by spraying at that time. As soon as the blosjoms have fallen the spraying should be repeated, and another application is often advis- able, especially in rainy seasons or when the curculio are numerous. Formula for spraying: Slack 2 pounds of fresh lime and mix thoroughly with i pound of pure Paris green in 150 gallons of water. For most purposes it is desirable to combine Let us demand reserves of forests for future generations. Greening^s 20th Ce ntury Fruit Groivers^ and Landscapers' Guide, 2 9 THE FLYER "BAB," PROPERTY OF CHAS. E. GREENING. the Paris green with Bordeaux mixture. Keep the water and poison constcintly stirred. Apply thoroughly. Jarring the trees in the early mc-ning and catching the beetles upon sheets spread on the ground, is also an old and effectual remedy. CURRANT AND GOOSEBERRY WORMS.— Spray with Paris green, i ounce in 15 gallons of water, with a little lime, as soon as the worms appear. For the second brood use powdered hellebore, and later pyrethrum, if necessary. BORERS. — Nearly all fruit trees are subject to the attack of borers in the trunk near the ground. Examine the trees during October by scraping the soil back from the trunks to a depth of three inches. If borers are found, destroy them ^vith a steel wire or dig them out with a knife. Peach and other trees, especially subject to attack, should be again examined in May or June. CANKER-WORMS. — Apple orchards, elm and other trees are often defo- liated and their growing and fruiting prevented by this insect. When full grown they are about one inch long, and of a light green color, and from their appearance when crawling are often called inch- or span-worms. They often co.nsume all of the green portions of the leaves, only midribs remaining, and the trees have the appear- ance of having been scorched with fire. Remedy: Spray thoroughly with the Pari.' green mixture just before the blossoms open, and again as soon as the fruit has set. In rainy seasons several applications may be desirable. While small the worms are readily killed, but if the spraying is delayed until the worms are nearly grown, a more thorough application of the poison than usual is necessary. A band of stickv material, such as fly-paper, if wound around the trunks to act as a trap for catching the worms when they emerge from the ground in the early summer and begin to travel up the tree in search of food and to deposit their eggs, is also a splendid remedy. SLUGS. — These are small, slimy insects about one-half inch long, that eat the lining off the leaves of cherry, pear, plum and quince trees. There are usually two broods, which may readily be destroyed by throwing dry road-dust, slacked lime or ashes over the trees, or they may be sprayed with the Paris green or Bordeaux mixture. t'EAR BLIGHT.— This disease causes the leaves and twigs to turn black, and it may be spread all along the branches until the entire tree is involved. The remedy is the removal of the affected portions as soon as the disease is detected. We also recommend using the Califor- nia tree-wash, and scraping the bark, as herein described under the heading of "The Pear Or- chard." Also use the sulphate of copper mixture as directed. Beautify the home in its immediate surroundings. Diseases of Fruit Trees and Their Remedies » 30 Greening^s 20th Century Fruit Grcywers* and Landscapers*^ Guide* GREENING'S ADVERTISING WAGON. Few people realize the vast proportions of our advertising. Our claim of being the largest adver- tisers among nurserymen in the world is fully justified. Above is shown one of our advertising wagons, fully equipped for painting our signs on large buildings throughout the country. Four expert artists accompany each wagon. Each wagon carries an abundant supply of Greening's literature, such as cat- alogues, pamphlets, Horticulturists, etc., all of which is distributed en route as they travel through the country. THE APPLE AND QUINCE BLIGHT.— This is a form known as twig blight, often attacking the young growth upon apple and quince trees. The removal of the affected portions is the only remedy, but we would advise a thorough application of the Bordeaux mixture in every case of blight of this nature. PEACH-LEAF CURL. — This is a fungous disease which causes the leaves to thicken, curl and fall ofif. The disease is most troublesome when the weather in May is cold and wet. Remedy: Spray the trees early in the spring before sap flows, with a solution of copper sulphate, using 2 pounds in 50 gallons of water. Spray thoroughly so as to cover every bud. This remedy has proven very effectual. PEACH YELLOWS AND LITTLE PEACH.— These diseases are very con- tagious, and the only method of sabring orchards is the prompt removal of the af- fected trees. SHOT-HOLE FUNGUS, OR LEAF BLIGHT.— This disease is the most in- jurious to the plum of the European varieties. It also affects the cherry, currant and gooseberry. Brown spots appear on the leaf, causing the injured por- tions to drop out, making round holes in the leaf, and finally causing the foliage to drop, long before the growing season is over. This check causes the tree to ripen its wood, and a little later in the season they begin to throw out new foliage, which in many cases proves fatal to the tree. Remedy: Spray with a solution of copper sulphate, using 2 pounds in 50 gallons of water, early in the spring before the sap begins to flow. Later on the Bordeaux mixture may be applied several times during the growing season. BROWN ROT OF STONE FRUITS.— This is a rot affecting the fruit just before it begins to turn, and often destroys the entire crop. Warm, wet and muggy weather aids the disease in the germination of the spores of the fungus. Remedy: Spray with the copper sulphate solution early in the spring before sap flows, and continue to spray with the Bordeaux mixture every three or four weeks up to the time the fruit begins to color, the last spraying being with a weak solution of copper sulphate, containing about i pound in 150 gallons of water. APPLE SCAB. — Use Bordeaux mixture every- four weeks after the fruit has formed on the trees. Three applications are sufficient. Trees, shrubbery, flowers and sunshine, fill the heart with joy. Greening's 20ih Century Fruit Groivers' and Landscapets' Guide, 31 RESIDENCE OF CHARLES E. GREENING. In architecture this building is after the modern Knglish type. It has a frontage of seventy-five feet and extends sixty-five feet to tlie rear. The interior is finished in selected polished Tennes- see quartered white oak; French plate glass, conservatory, billiard parlor, fine library and private gas plant, a modern house with everything that will add to comfort and pleasure. An ideal home, amid charming groups of Spirea Van Houtii, stately maples, beautiful shrubbery and climbers. 11 Spraying Formulas BORDEAUX MIXTURE. — Five pounds copper sulphate, 5 pounds stone lime, 50 gallons of water. Dissolve the copper sulphate by sus- pending it in a basket, so that it will hang just below the surface of the water. A gallon of water will readily dissolve a pound of copper sulphate. In another vessel slack the lime, — which should be fresh, — in eight gallons of hot water, stirring and adding cold water enough to keep the lime from burning. After the latter solution has cooled, slowly turn it into the copper sulphate solution and add enough water to make 50 gallons all told. This, when all is thoroughly mixed and carefully strained, is ready for use. The use of lime with this mixture is of the greatest importance, and we would rather advise a little surplus, so as to make sure of there being enough. For late spraying, in using this mixture, just before fruit begins to color, reduce the amount of lime and copper sulphate, in order to preserve the color of the fruit. COPPER SULPHATE MIXTURE.— Dissolve i pound of copper sulphate in 25 gallons of water. This solution is only to be used in the spring, before the sap begins to flow. Do not apply it to foliage. KEROSENE EMULSION. -One gallon kerosene oil, i pound of hard soap, and IS gallons of water. Dissolve the soap in 2 gallons of water, add the kerosene and churn thoroughly together, until it becomes a thick, creamy mass. When ready for use, add the remainder of the water. This mixture will answer for nearly all plants, but for trees infested with plant-lice, it will be advisable to use 10 quarts of water to one of kerosene during the summer. PARIS GREEN MIXTURE.— Use i pound of pure Paris green in 150 gallons of water. Add to this 2 pounds of well slacked lime. Strain carefully before using. For most purposes, we would advise combining the Paris green with Bordeaux mixture, in which case the extra 2 pounds of lime mentioned ruay be left out, on account of the lime contained in the Bordeaux mixture. WHALE-OIL SOAP MIXTURE.— This mixture may be used for aphis and plant-lice during the summer season, at the rate of i pound of the whale-oil soap in 3 to 5 gallons of water. Language of the flowers — "Kiss me over the garden gate." 32 Greening's 20th Century Fruit Grcnuers' and Landscapers' Guide, Prominent Horticultural Societies JffVisitin^ Greening's NurseriesJ^ Over 500 prominent Horticulturists who visited our Nurseries in 1898, bringing their own band. lyUcas County Horticultural Society; Lucas County Floricultural Society; Lenawee County Horti- cultural Society and the Civic Improvement Society of Monroe, Mich., visiting our nurseries June 19th, 1902. The Michigan State Horticultural Society visiting Greening Bros.' Nurseries Oct. 8, 1901. The three groups above shown are photographs taken on our grounds and represent gatherings of Horticultural Societies who came for the purpose of visiting and inspecting our Nurseries, seeing and admiring the beautiful and expensive improvements such as can only be found on our grounds. What they saw is expressed in the remarks made by some of the leading members of the society during and after the tour through the Nurseries. HERE IS WHAT THEY SAID. "I never believed these Nurseries were so extensive."-' — "The healthiest and smoothest trees I have ever seen." — "What perfection of detail on every hand." — "Such rich and glossy foliage." — "What a grand invention, the Steam Tree Digger — such fine roots I never saw." "What wonderful progress these people have made." — "What immense quantities of trees, extending for miles." — "There is no evidence of any disease or injurious insects." — "If I were to buy thousands of trees I would get them from this Nursery." — "I never heard of any yellows in this section," says Prof. Taft. "These people are certainly among the most successful Nurserymen in this country."- — "The nature of that soil and the way it is prepared can only produce the very best trees; not a weed to be seen on these extensive grounds covering over 700 acres." — "What elegant and costly buildings and beautiful parks." — "I shall never forget this trip; it has been one of the greatest enjoyments of my life to visit these grounds." — "All that is represented in their catalogue and more too." — "They deserve success and are getting it." — Etc., etc. Some of these visitors, to whom we respectfully refer the public: President R. M. Kellogg, Three Rivers, Mich. Secretary C. K. Bassett, Fennville; Mich. Prof. L. R. Taft, Agr. College, Mich., Sec. Ohio H. S.— W. W. Farnsworth, Waterville, O. C. J. Monroe, South Haven, Mich. L. B. Rice, Port Huron, Mich. C. B. Welch, Douglas, Mich. Prof. tj. P. Hedrick, Agr. College, Mich., etc. From a fifty-acre orchard R. Morrill received $30,000 for one crop. Does it pay? THE OLD WAY OF DIGGEVG TREES. An every-day scene in digging time under th^ old method of digging trees with spades. The men have succeeded in lifting the tree, with a mighty effort so frequently necessary to pull the tree, but alas! the tree being rent from the ground with spade and force of muscle, the roots are badly broken and bruised and it will be seen that the man pulling the tree has lost his equilibrium at a crit- ical moment. Thousands of planters will hail with delight the advent of modern tree digging. There can be no disappointment in planting our steam dug trees, as all the roots are intact and uninjured, not bruised, broken or crushed as is the case under the old method. Results — smiling patrons, more business, better orchards. (ft. INDEX ^ ^ Banner Peach, Block of 6 Beautifying the Surroundings of a Home, Treatise on 23-26 Best Trees to Plant 2 Bordeaux Mixture .' 31 Borers 11-29 Care Before Planting 3 Copper Sulphate Mixture 31 Cover Crop 9 Crops to Grow in an Orchard 9 Cultivation of Orchard 9 Currants and Gooseberries 17 Diseases and Remedies 29-30 Distances for Planting 3 Dwarf Pear 13 Greening's Horticultural Gardens 4 Healing Bruised Trees 11 Heeling in Before Planting 5 How to Make Trees Bear 11 Implements to Use 9 Insects and Remedies 27-29 Kerosene Emulsion 31 Manuring 10 Maple Avenue 2 Maples, Norway 5 Marketing Fruit, Treatise on 19-23 Marketing, Hints on 19 Model Orchard i Number Trees to Acre 3 Orchard and Small Fruits, Treatise on 9-18 Paris Green Mixture 31 Planting Board, The - 6 Planting Square 4 Planting Trees, Plants, etc 6-9 Practical Hints 9 Pruning Grape Vines 16 Pruning Tools 12 Raspberries and Blackberries 17 Root Pruning before Planting 3 Selecting Site for Orchard i Soil Preparation for Orchard i Spraying Insects and Diseases, Treat- ise on 27 Spraying Formulas 31 Staking Out the Orchard 5 Strawberries 18 Thinning Fruit 11 Treatise on Marketing Fruit 19 Treatise on Transplanting, etc i Tree Wash 10 Varieties to Plant 2 Vineyard . . 15 Whale Oil Soap Mixture 31 When to Prune Orchard 12 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS mm^^ OF CONGRESS Hollinger Coip. pH8.5