Class Book COPYRIGHT DEPOSrr [? 's^^ L \ \ HISTORIC NOTES THE NOETHWEST GLEANED FROM EARLY AUTHORS, OLD MAPS AND MANUSCRIPTS, PRIVATE AND OFFICIAL CORRESPONDENCE, AND OTHER AUTHENTIC, THOUGH, FOR THE MOST PART, OUT-OF-THE-WAY SOURCES. / By H. W. BECK WITH, Of the Danyille Bar ; Corresponding Member of the Historical Societies of Wisconsin and Chicago. WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS. .?^ 'Jn. ■// CHICAGO: H. H. HILL AND COMPANY, PUBLISHERS. 1879. ^A-'''^.. ^%^^ Copyright, 1879. By II. W. BECKWITII AND SON. KNIGHT S-. LEONARD . I PREFACE. In the following pajyes the writer has hmited himself, for the most part, to the ter- ritorj' watered by the Illinois, the St. Joseph of Lake Michigan, the Mauniee and the Wabash rivers. He has chosen to do so to the end that the early history of the country treated of might be the more fully considered. The topographical features of, and the military and civil events occurring in, localities beyond these limits have been noticed only in so far as they are directly connected with, or tend to illustrate the field occu- pied. It has been an aim of the writer to.perpetuate the history of the relations which the discovery and early commerce of the northwdfet has sustained to its peculiar topograph- ical features. Nature made the routes and pointed out the means of our inland com- munication. The first explorations of the northwest were made by way of the lakes, the Fox and Wisconsin Rivers, the St. Josephs of Lake Michigan, the Illinois River and Chicago Creek, the Maumee and' the Wabash and their connecting portages. These were also the routes by which the first commerce was carried on. Formerly the country was a wilderness of forests and praii'ies, and the abode of wild animals and the wild men who hunted them for their furs and skins, which were the only commodities for export. In the progress of time the fur-bearing animals and the Indians have dis- appeared. The wilderness has been subdued, and the products of its cultivated fields now find their way to the marts of Europe. The canoe which carried the furs and pel- tries to tide water gave way to the canal boat, and the canal boat has been supplanted by the steamer and the railway car. The routes have ahrnj/s remained essentiaUi/ the same. They have merely been enlarged and perfected from time to time, to meet the ever-increasing demands of the west in the successive stages of its development. The country drained by the rivers we have named is x-ich in the poesy and romance of history, reaching back nearly two centuries in the past, where the outlines of written records fade away in the twilight and charm tradition. By the routes we have named came the Jesuit Fathers, with crucifix and altar, bearing the truths of Chris- tianity to distant and savage tribes. Along these routes passed the Coureurs-de-hois and the VoyageHrs, — gay and happy sons of France — with knives, guns, blankets and trinkets to exchange with the Indians for products of the chase. Following the traders came French colonists, who, on their way from Canada to Louisiana, passed up the Maumee and down the Wabash, nearly three-quarters of a century before the Declaration of Independence was proclaimed. Along these streams were the villages of the most powerful Lidian confederacies. It was but natural that they should defend their country against the encroachment of another race; and the strife between the two for its possession furnishes material for many thrilling events in its history. In treating of the Indians, the writer has had no theories to advocate or morbid sentiments to gratify; he has only quoted what he has found in volumes regarded as standard authorities, without prejudice in favor or against this people. They have given away before an inexorable law, the severity of which could have been only modified at best. The writer believes the dominant race, out of their love for truth, will accord the Indian that even-handed justice to which he 4 PREFACE. is liistoriciilly entitled. Our knowledge of this people is fragmentary at best. They kept no records, and have no historians. All we know of them is to be found in the writings of persons who, if not their open enemies, at least had little interest in doing them justice. As a rule, early travelers have only alluded in an incidental way to the aboriginal inhabitants, or their manners and customs. We know, at best, but very little of the Indians who formerly occupied the country east of the Mississippi. They have passed away, and the information that has been preserved concerning them is so scattered through the volumes of authors who have written from other motives, and at different dates or of different nations, without taking thought to discriminate, that anything like a satisfactory account of a particular tribe is not attainable. However, the writer has in the following pages given the result of his gleanings over a wide field of authors, — French, English and American, — so far as they relate to the several tribes who formerly occupied that portion of the Northwest to which the attention of the reader has been called. The writer has preserved the aboriginal, as well as the French and early English names of the lakes, rivers, Indian villages and other locali- ties possessing historical interest, whenever attainable from books, maps or manu- scripts to which he has had access. Commercial enterprise led to the exploration of the northwest. It was competition for the fur trade between rival races, the French and the Anglo-Saxon, that produced the collision between the subjects of the two colonies in America, that finally cul- minated in a war between France and England, aided by their respective colonies, that resulted in the loss of the whole Mississippi valley to its first discoverers. It was a desire to retain control of the fur trade that contributed largely to the bitterness of the Indian border wars that commenced as soon as emigration began to extend itself west of the AUeganies; and the same cause prolonged the Indian ti-oubles for years after the country had ceased to be a part of the dominion of either France or Great Britain. Beginning with the mission work of the Jesuit Fathers on the southern shore of Lake Superior, in 1660, and extending down to 1800, but little is known of the country lying north and west of the Ohio river; and the meagre material is only to be found in antiquated books and maps long out of print, or in manuscript correspondence of a private or official character, none of which is accessible to the general reader. It is chiefly from these sources that most of the matter contained in the present volume has been collated. As far as practicable the writer has preferred to introduce his author- ities upon the stand and let them tell their stories in their own language, leaving the readers to draw their own conclusions from what the witnesses have stated. Wherever attainable, original sources of information are given. Besides such authors as Hennepin, Charlevoix and the invaluable translations and contributions of Dr. John G. Shea, the writer has availed himself freely of the Jesuit Relations and the publications of the historical societies of Louisiana, Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, New York and Wisconsin. The writer is conscious that his task, voluntarily assumed, has been but indifterently performed. H. W. B. Danvillk, Ii.i,., Nov. 5, 1879. TABLE OF CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Topography — The drainage of the Lakes and the Mississippi, and the Indian and French names by which they were severally called 10 CHAPTER n. Drainage of the Illinois and Wabash — Their tributary streams — The portages connecting the drainage to the Atlantic with that of the Gulf 17 CHAPTER III. The ancient Maumee Valley — Geological features — Formerly Lakes Michigan and Superior drained into the Illinois, and Lakes Huron and Erie into the Wa- bash — The portage of the Wabash and the Kankakee 21 CHAPTER IV. The rainfall — It has increased, although the rivers seem to have diminished, since the settlement of the Northwest — Cultivation of the soil tends to equalize rain- fall, and prevent the recurrence of drouths and floods 26 CHAPTER V. Origin of the prairies — Their former extent — Gradual encroachment of the for- est — Prairie fires — Aboriginal names of the prairies, and the Indians who lived exclusively upon them 29 CHAPTER VI. Early French discoveries — Jaques Cartier ascends the St. Lawrence in 1535 — Samuel Champlain founds Quebec in 1608 — In 1642 Montreal is established — Influence of Quebec and Montreal upon the Northwest continues until subse- quent to the war of 1812 — Early explorations of the French missionaries along the shore of Lake Superior — They first learn of the Mississippi — Father Mar- quette desires to explore it — The French government determine on its explora- tion — Theories as to whether the Mississippi emptied into the Sea of Califor- nia, the Gulf of Mexico, or the Atlantic — Joliet and Marquette selected to solve the problem — Spanish discoveries of the lower Mississippi in 1525 37 CHAPTER VII. Joliet and Marquette's Voyage— They leave Mackinaw May 17, 1673 — They pro- ceed, by way of Green Bay and the Wisconsin, as far as the mouth of the Arkansas — Return by way of the Illinois and Chicago Creek — Father Mar- quette's Journal, descriptive of the journey and the country through which they traveled — Biographical sketches of Marquette and Joliet. 43 TABLE OF CONTENTS. CHAPTER VIII. La Salle's Voyage — Biographical sketch of La Salle — His noncessions and titles of nobility — Preparations for his explorations — Sketch of Father Hennepin and the merit of his writings — La Salle reaches the Niagara River in Decem- ber, 1C78, builds the ship Griffin and proceeds up Lake Erie, and reaches Mackinaw in August, 1679 54 CHAPTER IX. La Salle's Voyage continued — Mackinaw the headquarters of the Indian trade — The Griffin starts back to Niagara River with a cargo of furs, and is lost upon the lake — La Salle resumes his voyage in birch canoes, south along the west shore of Lake Michigan, and around its southern extremity to the mouth of the St. Joseph, where he erects Fort Miamis 68 CHAPTER X. The several rivers called the Miamis — La Salle's route down the Illinois — The Kankakee Marshes — The French and Indian names of the Kankakee and Des Plaines — The Illinois — "Fort Crevecoeur " — La Salle goes back to Canada — Destruction of his forts by deserters — His return to Fort Miamis, and the successful prosecution of his exploration to the mouth of the Missis- sippi — The whole valley of the great river taken possession of in the name of the King of France 73 CHAPTER XI. Death of La Salle, in attempting to establish a colony near the mouth of the MissLssippi — Chicago Creek — The origin of the name — Fort St. Louis built by Tonti at Starved Rock — La Salle assassinated and his colony destroyed — Joutel, with other survivors, return by way of the Illinois — Second attempt of France, under Mons. Iberville, in 1699, to establish settlements on the Gulf — Cession of all Louisiana to M. Crozat^Crozat's deed from the King — The Western Company — Law's scheme of inflation and its consequences — New Orleans founded in 1718 — Fort Chartes erected, and its appearance 87 CHAPTER XII. Surrender of Louisiana to the French Crown in 1731 — Early routes by way of the Kankakee, Chicago Creek, the Ohio, the Maumee and Wabash described — The Maumee and Wabash, and the number and origin of their several names — Indian villages 96 CHAPTER XIII. Aboriginal inhabitants — The several Illinois tribes — "Of the name Illinois, andist origin — The Kaskaskias, Cahokias, Taniaroas, Peorias and Metchigamis, sub- divisions of the Illinois Confederacy — First mentioned by the Jesuit mission- aries in 1655 — Tlieir habits and morals — Their country and villages — Their wars with the Iroquois and othi'r tribes — The tradition concerning the Iro- quois River — Their decline and removal westward of the Missouri 105 TARLE OF CONTKNTS. CHAPTER XIV. The Mianiis — The Miami, Piankeshaw and Wea bands— Tliey are kindred to the Illinois, originally from the west of the Mississippi — Their superiority and their military disposition — Their subdivisions and various names — Their trade and difficulties with the French and the English' — Their migrations — They are upon the Maumee and Wabash — Their Villages — From their position between the French and English they suffer at the hands of both — They defeat the Iroquois — They trade with the English, and incur the anger of the French — Their braverj- — Their decline — Destructive effects of intemperance — Cession of their lands in Illinois, Indiana and Ohio. — Their removal westward and present condition 119 CHAPTER XV. The Pottawatomies — They and the Ottawas and Ojibbewaj's one people — Origi- nally from the north and east of Lake Huron — Their migrations by way of Mackinaw to the country west of Lake Michigan, and thence south and east- ward — Their games — Origin of the name Pottawatomie — Allies of the French — Occupy a portion of the country of the Miamis along the Wabash — Their villages — At peace with the United States after the war of 1812 — Cede their lands — Their exodus from the Wabash, the Kankakee and Wabash — Their condition in Kansas — Their progress toward civilization 137 CHAPTER XVI. The Kickapoos and Mascoutins reside about Saginaw Bay in 1612; on Fox River, Wisconsin, in 1670 — Their reception of the Catholic fathers — Not inclined to their teachings — They kill one missionary and retain another in captiv- ity — On the Maumee in 1712 — In southern Wisconsin and northern Illinois — Migrate to the Wabash — Derivation of the name Mascoutin — Dwellers of the prairie — Identity of the Kickapoos with the Mascoutins — Their destruction at the siege of Detroit — They were always enemies of the French, English and Americans — Nearly destroy the Illinois and Pianke- shaws, and occupy their country — Join Tecumseh in a body — They, with the Winnebagoes, attack Fort Harrison — Pa-koi-shee-cnu'' s account of the engagement — Ka-en-ne-kuck becomes a religious teacher — The wild bands make trouble on the Texas border — Their country between the Illinois and Wabash — Their resemblance to the Sac and Fox Indians 153 CHAPTER XVII. The Shawnees and Delawares — Originally east of the Alleghany Mountains — Are sybdued aud driven out by the Iroquois — Marquette finds the Shawnees on the Tennessee in 1673 — At one time in Florida — In 1744 they are in Ohio — They war on the American settlements — Their villages on the Big and Little Miamis, the St. Mary's, the Au Glaize, Maumee and Wabash — The The Delawares — Made women of by the Iroquois — Their country on White River, Indiana, and eastward defined — Become friendly to the United States after Wayne's victory at Maumee Rapids, in 1794 — They, with the Shawnees, sent west of the Mississippi — They furnish soldiers in the war for the Union — Adopting ways of the white people l'<^0 8 TABLE OP CONTEXTS. CHAPTER XVIII. The Indians — Their implements, utensils, fortifications, mounds, manners and customs 1^0 CHAPTER XIX. Stone implements used by the Indians before they came in contact with the Euro- peans — Illustrations of various kinds of stone implements, and suggestions as to their probable uses 195 CHAPTER XX. The war for the fur trade — Former abundance of wild animals and water-fowl in the Northwest — The buffalo; their range, their numbers, and final disappear- ance — Value of the fur trade; its importance to Canada — The conreurs de bois; their food and peculiai'ities — Goods for Indian trade — The distant parts to which the fur trade was carried, and the manner in which it was conducted — Competition between French and English for control of the fur trade — It results in broils — French traders killed on the Vermilion — The French and • Indians attack Fort Pickawillany — War 208 CHAPTER XXI. The war for the empire — English claims to the Northwest — Deeds from the Iro- quois to a large part of the country — Military expeditions of Major Grant, Mons. Aubrj' and M. de Ligneris — Aubry attempts to retake Fort Du Quesne — His expedition up the Wabash — Goes to the relief of Fort Niagara — Is de- feated by Sir William Johnson — The, fall of Quebec and Montreal — Surrender of the Northwest to Great Britain — The territory west of the Mississippi ceded to Spain 224 CHAPTER XXII. Pontiac's war to recover the country from the English — The siege of Detroit — The fall of Mackinaw, Saint Joseph, Miamis and Ouiatanon — Relief of Detroit — Pontiac's confederacy falls to pieces — Croghan sent west to recover possession of the country from the Indians — Is captured and carried to Fort Ouiatanon — The country turned over to the English — Pontiac's death 234 CHAPTER XXIII. Gen. Clark's conquest of the "lUinois" — The Revolutionary war — Indian depre- dations upon the settlements of Kentucky — The savages are supplied with ai'ms and ammunition from the English posts at Detroit, Vincennes and Kas- kaskia — Gen. Clark applies to Gov. Henry, of Virginia, for aid in an enter- prise to capture Kaskaskia and Vincennes — Sketch of Gen. Clark — His manuscript memoir of his march to the Illinois — He captures Kaskaskia — The surrender of Vincennes — He treats with the Indians, who agree to quit their warfare on the Big Knife — Gov. Hamilton, of Detroit, re-captures Vin- cennes — Clark's march to Vincennes — He re-takes Vincennes, and makes the English forces prisoners of war — Capt. Helm surpi'ises a convoy of English boats at the mouth of the Vermilion River — Organization of the northwest territory into Illinois county of Virginia — Clark holds the Northwest until the conclusion of the revolutionary war. For this reason only it became a part of the United States 246 TABLE OF CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXIV. Illinois county established — The northwest territory — The ordinance of 1787 — A bill of rights — Free-school system — Provisions for states — Old boundaries between Canada and Louisiana — Indian wars — The Indian country on the Wabash and Maumee ravaged — England refuses to surrender military posts within the northwest territory — The first treaty between the United States and the Wabash tribes, at Vincennes. in 1792 — The great white wampum belt of peace, with medal suspended, delivered by Gen. Putnam — The medal, and where afterward found — The British medal — St. Clair's defeat — Futile efforts ta obtain peace — Wayne marches from Greenville to the Maumee and gains a great victory over the confederated tribes — Treaty of Greenville — Wayne's death 260 CHAPTER XXV. The northwest territory divided — Wm. H. Harrison appointed governor of the Indiana territory — Its subdivision into counties — Biographical sketch of Gov. > Harrison — Tecumseh and his brother, the Prophet — They organize a scheme to drive the white settlers beyond the Ohio — Illinois Territory formed — Its subdivision into the counties of Randolph and St. Clair — DeTelopment of Tecumseh 's plans — The Tippecanoe campaign — Lme of Harrison's march — Official account of the battle — Incidents — War of 1812 — A large part of the Northwest in the hands of the English and Indians — Fall of Fort Dearborn — Siege of Forts Wayne and Harrison — Gen. Taylor's report of the attack on Fort Harrison — The naval engagement on Lake Erie — The battle of the Thames — Tecumseh had "fought it out" with Gen. Harrison — The north recovered by Gen. Harrison — The old boundaries restored — Peace concluded — Advance of population — Conclusion .* . . v. 278 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. CHAPTER I. TOPOGRAPHY. The reader will have a better understanding of the manner in wliich the territory, herein treated of, was discovered and subse- quently occupied, if reference is made, in the outset, to some of its more important topographical features. Indeed, it would be an unsatisfactory task to try to follow the routes of early travel, or to undertake to pursue the devious wanderings of the aboriginal tribes, or trace the advance of civilized society into a conntry, without some preliminary knowledge of its topograph3\ Looking upon a map of Xorth America, it is observed that west- ward of tlie Alleghany Mountains the waters are divided into two gi-eat masses ; the one, composed of waters floM'ing into the great northern lakes, is, by. the river St. Lawrence, carried into the xVtlantic Ocean ; the other, collected by a multitude of streams spread out like a vast net over the surface of more tlum twenty states and several ter- ritories, is gathered at last into the Mississippi River, and thence dis- charged into the Gulf of Mexico. As it was by the St. Lawrence River, and the great lakes connected with it, that the Northwest Territory was discovered, and for many years its trade mainly carried on, a more minute notice of this remark- able water communication will not be out of place. Jacques Cartier, a French navigator, having sailed from St. Malo, entered, on the 10th of August, 1535, the Gulf, whicli he had explored the year before, and named it the St. Lawrence, in memory of the holy martyr wliose feast is celebrated on that day. This name was subsequently extended to the river. Previous to this it was called the River of Canada, the name iriven l)v the Indians to the whole countrv.* Tlie drainage of the St. Lawrence and the lakes extends through 11 degrees of longi- tude, and covers a distance of over two thousand miles. Ascending * Father Charlevoix' "History and General Description of New France;" Dr. John G. Shea's translation ; vol. 1, pp. 37, 115. 11 12 HISTORIC NOTES OF THE NORTHWEST. this river, we behold it flanked with bold crags and sloping hillsides ; its current beset with rapids and studded with a thousand islands ; combining scenery of marvelous beauty and grandeur. Seven hundred and fifty miles above its mouth, the channel deepens and the shores recede into an expanse of water known as Lake Ontario.* Passing westward on Lake Ontario one hundred and eighty miles a second river is reached. A few miles above its entry into the lake, the river is thrown over a ledge of rock into a yawning chasm, one hundred and fifty feet below ; and, amid the deafening noise and clouds of vapor escaping from the agitated waters is seen the great Falls of Niagara. At Bufflilo, twenty-two miles above the falls, the shores of Niagara River recede and a second great inland sea is formed, having an average breadth of 40 miles and a length of 240 miles. This is Lake Erie. The name has been variously spelt, — Earie, Ilerie, Erige and Erike. It has also born the name of Conti.f Father Hennepin says : " The Hurons call it Lake Erige, or Erike, that is to say, the Lake of the Cat, and the inhabitants of Canada have softened the M'ord to Erie ; " vide " A New Discovery of a Vast Countr}^ in America," p. 77 ; London edition, 1698. Hennepin's derivation is substantially followed by the more accurate and accomplished historian, Father Charlevoix, who at a later period, in 1721, in writing of this lake uses the following words: " The name it bears is that of an Indian nation of the Huron language, which was formerly settled on its banks and who have been entirely destroyed by the Iroquois. Erie in that language signifies cat, and in some accounts this nation is called the cat nation." He adds : " Some modern maps have given Lake Erie the name of Conti, but with no better success than the names of Conde, Tracy and Orleans which have been given to Lakes Huron, Superior and Michigan. ";}; At the upper end of Lake Erie, to the southward, is Maumee Bay, of which more hereafter; to the northward the shores of the lake again * Ontario has been favored with several names by early authors and map makers. Champlain's map, 1633, lays it down as Lac St. Louis. The map prefixed to Colden's "History of the Five Nations" designates it as Cata-ra-qui, or Ontario Lake. The word is Huron- Iroquois, and is derived, in their language, from Onfra, a lake, and io, beautiful, the compound word meanmg a beautiful lake ; vide Letter of I>ul5ois D'Avaugour, August 16, 1663, to the Minister: Paris Documents, vol. 9, p. 16. Baron LaHontan, in his work and on the accompanying map, calls it Lake Frontenac; ride " New \'oyages to North America," vol. 1, p. 219. And Frontenac, the name by which, this lake was most generally designated by the early French writers, was given to it in honor of the great Count Frontenac, Governor-General of Canada. t Narrative of Father Zenolna Membre, who accompanied Sieur La Salle in the voyage westward on tliis lake in 1679 ; vide " Discovery and Exploration of the Mississippi." by Dr John G. Shea, p. 90. Barou La Hontan's "Voyages to North America," vol. 1, p. 217, also map prefixed ; London edition, 1703. Cadwalder Col- den's map, referred to in a previous note, designates it as "Lake Erie, or Okswego." t Journal of a Voyage to North America, vol. 2, p. 2 ; London Edition, 1761. THE LAKES. 13 approach each other and form a channel known as the River Detroit, a French word signifying a strait or narrow passage. Northward some twenty miles, and above the city of Detroit, the river widens into a small body of water called Lake St. Clair. The name as now written is incorrect : " we should either retain the French form, Claire, or take the English Clare. It received its name in honor of the founder of the Franciscan nuns, from the fact that La Salle reached it on the day con- secrated to her."* Northward some twelve miles across this lake the land again encroaches upon and contracts the waters within another narrow bound known as the Strait of St. Clair. Passing up this strait, northward about forty miles. Lake Huron is reached. It is 250 miles long and 190 miles wide, including Georgian Bay on the east, and its whole area is computed to be about 21,000 square miles. Its magnitude fully justified its early name. La Mer-douce, the Fresh Sea, on account of its extreme vastness.f The more popular name of Huron, which has survived all others, was given to it from the great Huron nation of Indians who formerly inhabited the country lying to the eastward of it. Indeed, many of the early French writers call it Lac des Hurons, that is, Lake of the Hurons. It is so laid down on the maps of Hen- nepin, La Hontan, Charlevoix and Colden in the volumes before quoted. Going northward, leaving the Straits of Mackinaw, through which Lake Michigan discharges itself from the west, and the chain of Manitoulin Islands to the eastward, yet another river, the connecting link between Lake Huron and Superior, is reached. Its current is swift, and a mile below Lake Superior are the Falls, where the water leaps and tumbles down a channel obstructed by boulders and shoals, where, from time immemorial, the Indians of various tribes have resorted on account of the abundance of fish and the ease with which they are taken. Previous to the year 1670 the river was called the Sault, that is, the rapids, or falls. In this year Fathers Marquette and Dablon founded here the mission of " St. Marie du Sault " (St. Mary of the Falls), from which the modern name of the river, St. Mary's, is derived.:}: Recently the United States have perfected the ship canal cut in solid rock, around the falls, through which the largest vessels can now pass, from the one lake to the other. Lake Superior, in its greatest length, is 360 miles, with a maximum breadth of 140, the largest of the five great American lakes, and the most extensive body of fresh water on the globe. Its form has been *Note by Dr. Shea, " Discovery and Exploration of the Mississippi," p. 143. tChamplain's map, 1632. Also "Memoir on the Colony of Quebec, ' Angnst 4, 1663 : Paris Documents, vol. 9. p. 16. 1 Charlevoix' " History of New France, " voi. 3, p. 110; also note. 14 HISTOKIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. poetically iind not inaccurately described by a Jesuit Father, whose account of it is preserved in the Relations for the years 1669 and 1670 : " This lake has almost the form of a bended bow, and in length is more than 180 leagues. The southern shore is as it were the cord, the arrow being a long strip of land [Keweenaw Point] issuing from the south- ern coast and running more than 80 leagues to the middle of the lake." A glance on the map will show the aptness of the comparison. The name Superior was given to it by the Jesuit Fathers, " in conse- quence of its being xihove that of Lake Huron.* It was also called Lake Tracy, after Marquis De Tracy, who was governor-general of Canada from 1663 to 1665. Father Claude Allouez, in his " Journal of Travels to the Country of the Ottawas," preserved in the Relations for the years 1666, 1667, says : " After passing through the St. Mary's River we entered the upper lake, which will hei-eafter bear the name of Monsieur Tracy, an acknowledgment of the obligation under which the people of this country are to him." The good father, however, was mistaken ; the name Tracy only appears on a few ancient maps, or is jierpetuated in rare volumes that record the almost for- gotten labors of the zealous Catholic missionaries ; while the earlier name of Lake " Superior " is familiar to every school-boy who has thumbed an athis. At the western extremity of Lake Superior enter the Rivers Bois- Brule and St. Louis, the upper tributaries of which have their sources on the northeasterly slope of a water-shed, and approximate very near the head-waters of the St. Croix, Prairie and Savannah Rivers, which, issuing from the opposite side of this same ridge, flow into the upper Mississippi. The upper portions of Lakes Huron, Michigan, Green Bay, with their indentations, and the entire coast line, with the islands eastward and westward of the Straits of Mackinaw, are all laid down with quite a degree of accuracy on a map attached to the Relations of the Jesuits for the years 1670 and 1671, a copy of which is contained in Bancroft's History of the United States,t showing that the reverend fathers were industrious in mastering and preserving the geographical features of the wilderness they traversed in their holy calling. Lake Michigan is the only one of the five great lakes that lays wholly within the United States, — the other four, with their connect- ing rivers and straits, mark the boundary between the Dominion of Canada and the United States. Its length is 320 miles ; its average breadth 70, with a mean depth of over 1,000 feet. Its area is some * Relations of 1660 and 1669. f Vol. 3, p. 152; fourth edition. LAKE MICHIGAN. 15 22,000 square miles, being considerably more than that of Lake Huron and less than that of Lake Superior. Michigan was the last of the lakes in order of discovery. The Hurons, christianized and dwelling eastward of Lake Huron, had been driven from their towns and cultivated fields by the L-oquois, and scat- tered about Mackinaw and the desolate coast of Lake Superior beyond, whither they were followed by their faithful pastors, the Jesuits, who erected new altars and gathered the remnants of their stricken follow- ers about them ; all this occurred before the fathers had acquired any definite knowledge of Lake Michigan. In their mission work for the year 1666, it is referred to " as the Lake Illinouek, a great lake adjoin- ing, or between, the lake of the Hurons and that of Green Bay, that had not [as then] come to their knowledge." In the Relation for the same year, it is referred to as " Lake Illeaouers," and " Lake Illinioues, as yet unexplored, though much smaller than Lake Huron, and that the Outagamies [the Fox Indians] call it Machi-hi-gan-ing." Father Hen- nepin says : " The lake is called by the Indians, ' Illinouek,' and by the French, ' Illinois,' " and that the " Lake Illinois, in the native lan- guage, signifies the ' Lake of Men.' " He also adds in the same para- graph, that it is called by the Miarais, " Mischigonong, that is, the great lake." * Father Marest, in a letter dated at Kaskaskia, Illinois, November 9, 1712, so often referred to on account of the valuable his- torical matter it contains, contracts the aboi'iginal name to Michigan, and is, .perhaps, the first author who ever spelt it in the way that has become universal. He naively says, "that on the maps this lake has the name, without any authority, of the ' Lake of the Illinois,^ since the Illinois do not dwell in its neighborhood." f * Hennepin's " New Discovery of a Vast Country in America," vol. 1, p. 35. The name is derived from the two Algonquin words, Michi (raishi or missi), which signifies great, as it does, also, several or many, and Sagayigan, a lake; vide Henry's Travels, p. 37, and Alexander Mackenzie's Vocabulary of Algonquin Words. t Kip's Eaxly Jesuit Missions, p. 222. CHAPTER II. DRAINAGE OF THE ILLINOIS AND WABASH. The reader's attention will now be directed to the drainage of the Illinois and Wabash Rivers to the Mississippi, and that of the Maumee River into Lake Erie. The Illinois River proper is formed in Grundy county, Illinois, below the city of Joliet, by the union of the Kanka- kee and Desplaines Rivers. The latter rises in southeastern "Wisconsin ; and its course is almost south, through the counties of Cook and Will. The Kankakee has its source in the vicinity of South Bend, Indiana. It pursues a devious way, through marshes and low grounds, a south- westerly course, forming the boundary-line between the counties of Laporte, Porter and Lake on the north, and Stark, Jasper and Newton on the south ; thence across the dividing line of the two states of Indi- ana and Illinois, and some fifteen miles into the county of Kankakee, at the confluence of the Iroquois River, where its direction is changed northwest to its junction with the Desplaines. The Illinois passes westerly into the county of Putnam, where it again turns and pursues a generally southwest course to its confluence with the Mississippi, twenty miles above the mouth of the Missouri. It is about five hun- dred miles long ; is deep and broad, and in several places expands into basins, which may be denominated lakes. Steamers ascend the river, in high water, to La Salle ; from whence to Chicago navigation is contin- ued by means of the Illinois and Michigan Canal. The principal trib- utaries of the Illinois, from the north and right bank, are the Au Sable, Fox River, Little Vermillion, Bureau Creek, Kickapoo Creek (which empties in just below Peoria), Spoon River, Sugar Creek, and finally Crooked Creek. From the south or left bank are successively the Iro- quois (into the Kankakee), Mazon Creek, Vermillion, Crow Meadow, Mackinaw, Sangamon, and Macoupin. The Wabash issues out of a small lake, in Mercer county, Ohio, and runs a westerly course through the counties of Adams, Wells and Huntington in the state of Lidiana. It receives Little River, just below the city of Huntington, and continues a westwardly course through the counties of Wabash, Miami and Cass. Here it turns more to the south, flowing through the counties of Carroll and Tippe- canoe, and marking the boundary -line between the counties of Warren 16 THE MAUMEE AND PORTAGES. 17 and Vermillion on the west, and Fountain and Park on the east. At Covington, the county seat of Fountain county, the river runs more directly south, between the counties of Vermillion on the one side, and Fountain and Parke on the other, and through the county of Vigo, some miles below Terre Haute, from which place it forms the boundarv- line between the states of Indiana and Illinois to its confluence with the Ohio. Its principal tributaries from the north and west, or right bank of the stream, are Little River, Eel River, Tippecanoe, Pine Creek, Red Wood, Big Vermillion, Little Vermillion, Bruletis, Sugar Creek, Em- barras, and Little Wabash. The streams flowing in from the south and east, or left bank of the river, are the Salamonie, Mississinewa, Pipe Creek, Deer Creek, Wildcat, Wea and Shawnee Creeks, Coal Creek, Sugar Creek, Raccoon Creek, Otter Creek, Busseron Creek, and White River. There are several other, and smaller, streams not necessary here to notice, although they are laid down on earlier maps, and mentioned in old " (razetteers " and "Emigrant's Guides."" The Maumee is formed by the St. Joseph and St. Mary's Rivers, which unite their waters at Ft. Wayne, Indiana. The St. Joseph has its source in Hillsdale county, Michigan, and runs southwesterly through the northwest corner of Ohio, through the county of De Kalb, and into the county of Allen, Indiana. The St. Mary's rises in An Glaize county, Ohio, very near the little lake at the head of the Wabash, before referred to, and runs northwestwardly parallel with the Wabash, through the counties of Mercer, Ohio, and Adams, Indiana, and into Allen county to the place of its union with the St. Joseph, at Ft. Wayne. Tlie principal tributaries of the Maumee are the Au Glaize from the south. Bear Creek, Turkey Foot Creek, Swan Creek from the north. The length of the Maumee River, from Ft. Wayne northeast to Maumee Bay at the west end of Lake Erie, is very little over 100 miles. A noticeable feature relative to the territory under consideration, and having an important bearing on its discover}' and settlement, is the fact that many of the tributaries of the Mississippi have their branches interwoven with numerous rivers draining into the lakes. They not infrecpicntly issue from the same lake, pond or marsh situated on the sunnnit level of the divide from which the waters from one end of the common reservoir drain to the Atlantic Ocean and from the other to the Gulf of Mexico. By this means nature' herself provided navig- able communication between the northern lakes and the Mississippi Valley. It was, however, only at times of the vernal floods that the 18 HISTORIC NOTES OF THE NORTHWEST. coinniunication was coin])lete. At otlier seasons of the year it was interrupted, when transfers In* land were required for a short distance. Tlie phices where these ti'ansfcrs were made are known by the French term poi'ttuje^ wliicli. like many other foreign derivatives, has become anglicized, and means a carrying place ; because in low stages of water the canoes and effects of the traveler had to l)e carried around the dry marsh or pond from the head of one stream to the source of that beyond. The first of these portages known to the Europeans, of which accounts have come down to ns, is the portage of the Wisconsin, in the state of that name, connecting the Mississippi and Green Bay by means of its situation between the Wisconsin and Fox Rivers. The next is the portage of Chicago, uniting Chicago Creek, which emptier into Lake Michigan at Chicago, and the Desplaines of the Illinois Tiiver. The third is tlie portage of the Kankakee, near the present city of South Bend, Indiana, which connects the St. Joseph of Lake Michigan with the upper waters of the Kankakee. And the fourth is the ])ortage of the Wal)ash at Ft. Wayne. Lidiana, between the Maumee and the Wabash, by way of Little River. Though al)andoned and their former uses forgotten in the advance of permanent settlement and the progress of more efficient means of commercial intercourse, these portages were the gateways of the French Ijetween their possessions in Canada and along the Mississippi. Formei'ly the Northwest was a wilderness of forest and prairie, with only the paths of wild animals or the trails of roving Indians leading, through tangled undergrowth and tall grasses. In its undeveloped form it was without roads, incapable of land carriage and could not be traveled by civilized man, even on foot, without the aid of a savage guide and a permit from its native occupants which afforded little or no security to life or property. For these reasons the lakes and rivers, with their connecting portages, were the only highways, and they invited exploration. They afforded ready means of opening up the interior. The Fi'ench, who were the iirst explorers, at an earl}^ day, as we sliall hereafter see, established posts at Detroit, at the mouth of the Kiagara River, at Mackinaw, Green Bay, on the Illinois River, the St. Joseph's of Lake Michigan, on the Maumee, the Wabash, and at other places on the route of inter-lake and river communication. By means of having seized these strategical points, and their influence over the Indian tribes, the French monopolized the fur trade, and although feebly assisted by the liome government, held the whole Mississippi Valle}' and regions of the lakes, for near three quarters of a century, against all efforts of the English colonies, eastward of the Alleghany ridge, who, assisted by England, sought to wrest it from their grasp. CHICAGO I'ORTAGE. 19 licciiiTing to the old portage at Chicago, it is evident that at a com- paratively recent period, since the glacial epoch, a large part of Cook county was under water. The waters of Lake Michigan, at that time, found an outlet through the Desplaines and Illinois Rivers into the Mississippi." This assertion is confirmed from the appearance of the whole channel of the Illinois River, which formerly contained a stream of much greater magnitude than now. The old beaches of Lake Michigan arc [)lainly indicated in the ridges, trending westward several miles away from the present \vater line. The old state road, from Yincennes to Chicago, followed one of these ancient lake beaches from Blue* Island into the city. The subsidence of the lake must have been gradual, requiring- many ages to accomplish the change of direction in the flow of its waters from the Mississippi to the St. Lawrence. The character of the ])ortage has also undergone changes within the memory of men still living. The excavation of the Illinois and Michigan Canal, and the drainage of the adjacent land by artificial ditches, has left little remaining from which its former appearance can now be recognized. Major Stephen H. Long, of the U. S. Topo- graphical Engineers, made an examination of this locality in the year 1823, before it had becti changed by the hand of man, and says, con- cerning it, as follows: " The south fork of Chicago River takes its rise about six miles from the fort, in a swamp, which communicates also with the Desplaines, one of the head branches of the Illinois. Hav- ing been informed that this route was frequently used by traders, and that it had been traversed by one of the officers of the garrison, — who returned with provisions from St, Louis a few days before our arrival at the fort, — we determined to ascend the Chicago River in order to observe this interesting division of waters. We accordingly left the fort on the^Tth day of June, in a boat which, after having ascended the river four miles, we exchanged for a narrow pirogue that drew less water, — the stream we were ascending was very narrow, rapid and crooked, presenting a great fall. It so continued for about three miles, when we reached a sort of a swamp, designated l)y the Canadian voy- agers under the name of 'Ze Petit Lac!' f Our course through this swamp, which extended three miles, was very much impeded by the high grass, weeds, etc., through which our pirogue passed with diffi- culty. Observing that our progress through the fen was slow, and the day being considerably advanced, we landed on the north bank, and continued our course along the edge of the swamp for about three * Geological Survey of Illinois, vol. 3, p. 240. t What remains of this lake is now known by the name of 2^htd Lake. 20 HISTORIC NOTES OF THE NOKTHWEST. miles, until we reached the place where the old portage road meets the current, which was here very distinct toward the south. We were delighted at beholding, for the tirst time, a feature so interesting in itself, but which we had afterward an opportunity of observing fre- quently on the route, viz, the division of waters starting from the same source, and running in two different directions, so as to become feed- ers of streams that discharge themselves into the ocean at immense dis- tances apart. Lieut. IJobson, who accompanied us to the Desplaines, told us that he had traveled it with ease, in a boat loaded with lead and flour. The distance from the fort to the intersection of the port- age road is about twelve or thirteen miles, and the portage rOad is about eleven miles long ; the usual distance traveled by land seldom exceeds from four to nine miles ; however, in very dry seasons it is said to amount to thirty miles, as the portage then extends to Mount Juliet, near the confluence of the Kankakee. Although at the time we visited it there was scarcely water enough to permit our pirogue to pass, we could not doubt that in the spring of the year the route must be a very eligible one. It is equally apparent that an expendi- ture, trifling when compared to the importance of the object, would again render Lake Michigan a tributary of the Gulf of Mexico." * * Long's Expedition to the Source of the St. Peter's River, vol. 1, pp. 165, 166, 167. The State of Illinois begun work on the construction of a canal on this old portage on the 4th da^wof July, 1836, with great ceremony. Col. Guerdon S. Hubbard, still living, cast the first shovelful of earth out of it on this occasion. The work was completed in 1848. The canal was fed with water elevated by a pumping apparatus at Bridgeport. Recently the city of Chicago, at enormous expense sunk the bed of the canal to a depth that secures a flow of water directly from the lake, by means of which, the navigation is improved, and sewerage is obtained into the Illinois River. CHAPTER III. ANCIENT MAUMEE VALLEY. "What has been said of the changes in the surface geology of Lake Michigan and the Illinois River ma}' also be affirmed with respect to Lake Erie and the Maumee and Wabash Rivers. There are peculiari- ties which will arrest the attention, from a mere examination of the course of the Maumee and of the St. Joseph and St. Mary's Rivers, as they appear on the map of that part of Ohio and Indiana. The St. Joseph, after running southwest to its union with the St. Mary's at Ft. Wayne, as it were almost doubles back upon its former course, taking a northeast direction, forming the shape of a letter Y, and after having flowed over two hundred miles is discharged at a point within less than fifty miles east of its source. It is evident, from an exami- nation of that part of the country, that, at one time, the St. Joseph ran . wholly to the southwest, and that the Maumee River itself, instead of flowing northeast into Lake Erie, as now, drained this lake southwest through the present valley of the Wabash. Then Lake Erie extended very nearly to Ft. Wayne, and its ancient shores are still plainly marked. The line of the old beach is preserved in the ridges running nearly parallel with, and not a great distance from, the St. Joseph and the St. Mary's Rivers. Professor G. K. Gilbert, in his report of the " Surface Geology of the Maumee Yalley," gives the result of his examination of these interesting features, from which we take the following valuable extract.* " The upper (lake) beach consists, in this region, of a single bold ridge of sand, pursuing a remarkably straight course in a northeast and southwest direction, and crossing portions of Defiance, Williams and Fulton counties. It passes just west of Hicksville and Bryan ; while AVilliams Center, West Unity and Fayette are built on it. When Lake Erie stood at this level, it was merged at the north with Lake Huron. Its southwest shore crossed Hancock, Putnam, Allen and Van Wert counties, and stretched northwest in Indiana, nearly to Ft. Wayne. The northwestern shore line, leaving Ohio near the south line of Defiance county, is likewise continued in Indiana, and the two converge at New Haven, six miles east of Ft. Wayne. They do not, * Geological Survey of Ohio, vol. 1. p. 550. 21 22 HISTORIC NOTES OF THE NORTHWEST. however, unite, but, instead, become purallcl, and are continued as the sides of a broad watercourse, through which the great lake basin then discharged its surplus waters, southwestwardly, into the valley of the Wabash River, and thence to the Mississippi. At New Haven, this channel is not less than a mile and a half broad, and has an average depth of twenty feet, with sides and bottom of drift. For twenty-five miles this character continues, and there is no notable fall. Three miles above Huntington, Indiana, however, the drift bottom is replaced by a floor of Niagara limestone, and the descent becomes comparatively quite rapid. At Huntington, the valley is walled, on one side at least, by rock in situ. In the eastern portion of this ancient river-bed, the Maumee and its branches have cut channels fifteen to twenty -five feet deep, Avithout meeting the underlying limestone. Most of the inter- val from Ft. Wayne to Huntington is occupied l)y a marsh, over which meanders Little River, an insignificant stream whose only claim to the title of river seems to lie in the magnitude of the deserted channel of which it is sole occupant. At Huntington, the Wabash emerges from a narrow cleft, of its own carving, and takes possession of the broad trough to which it was once an humble tributary." Within the personal knowledge of men, the Wabash River has been, and is, only a rivulet, a shriveled, dried up representative in comparison with its greatness in pre-historic times, when it bore in a broader channel the waters of Lakes Erie and Hui-on, a mighty flood, south- ward to the Ohio. Whether the change in the direction of the flow of Lakes Erie, Huron and Michigan toward the River St. Lawrence, instead of through the Wabash and Illinois Rivers respectively, is because hemispheric depression has taken place more rapidly in the vicinity of the lakes than farther southward, or that the earth's crust south of the lakes has been arched upward by subterraneous influences, and thus caused the lakes to recede, or if the change has been produced by depression in one direction and elevation in the other, combined, is not our province to discuss. The fact, however, is well established by the most abundant and conclusive evidence to the scientiflc observer. The portage, or carrying place, of the Wabash,* as known to the early explorers and traders, between the Maumee and Wabash, or rather t)ie head of Little River, called by the French " La Petit Riviere," commenced directly at Ft. Wayne ; although, in certain seasons of the year, the waters approach much nearer and were united l)y a low piece * Schoolcraft's Travels in the Central Portions of the Mississippi Valley, " in the year 1821, pp. 90, 91. In this year, Mr. Schoolcrart made an examination of the locality, with a view to furnish the pulilic information on the practicability of a canal to unite the waters of the Maumee and the Wabash. It was at a time when oreat interest existed through all parts of the country on all subjects of internal navigation. FOKTAGE OF THE WABASH. 23 of ground or marsh (an ami or bay of what is now called Bear Lake), where the two streams flow within one hundred and fifty yards of each otlier and admitted of tlie passage of light canoes from the one to the otlier. The Miami Indians knew the value of this portage, and it was a source of revenue to them, aside from its advantages in enabling them to exercise an influence over adjacent tribes. The French, in passing from Canada to Xew Orleans, and Indian traders going from Montreal and Detroit, to the Indians south and westward, went and returned by way of Ft. Wayne, where the Miamis, kept carts and pack-horses, with a corps of Indians to assist in canning canoes, furs and merchandise around the portage, for which they charged a connnission. At the great treaty of Greenville, 171*5, where General Anthony Wayne met the several Wabash tribes, he insisted, as one of tlie fruits of his victory over them, at the Fallen Timbers, on the Maumee, the year before, that they should cede to the United States a piece of ground six miles square, where the fort, named in honor of General Wayne, had been erected after the battle named, and on the site of the present city of Ft. Wayne ; and, also, a piece of territory two miles square at the carrying place. The distinguished warrior and statesman, " Mishe- kun-nogh-quah" (as he signs his name at this treaty), or the Little Turtle on behalf of his tribe, objected to a relinquishment of their right to their ancient village and its portage, and in his speech to General Wavne said : '* Elder Brother, — When our forefathers saw the French and English at the Miami village — that ^glorious gate'* which your younger brothers [meaning the Miamis] had the happiness to own, an(.l through which all the good words of our chiefs had to pass [that is, messages between the several tribes] from north to south and from east to west, the French and English never told ns they wished to purchase our lands from us. The next place you pointed out was the Little Biver, and said you wanted two miles square of that place. This is a re(piest that our fathers the French or British never made of us ; it was always ours. This carrying place has heretofore proved, in a great degree, the sul)sistence of your brothers. That place has l)rought to us, in the course of one day, the amount of one hundred dollars. Let us both own this place and enjoy in common the advantages it affords." The Little Turtle's speech availed nothing.* The St. Joseph of Lake Michigan, a fine stream of uniform, rapid current, reaches its most southerly position near the city of South Blind, Indiana, — the city deriving its name from ihehend of the river ; * Minutes of the Treaty of Greenville: American State Papers on Indian Affairs. vol. 1, pp. 576, 578. ,^' 24 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST, here the river turns northward, reenters the State of Michigan and dis- charges into the hike. AVest of the city is Lake Kankakee, from whicli the Kankakee River takes its rise. The distance intervening be- tween the head of this little lake and the St. Joseph is about two miles, over a piece of marshy ground, where the elevation is so slight " that in the year 1S32 a Mr. Alexander Croquillard dug a race, and secured a tlow of water from the lake to the St. Joseph, of sufficient power to run a grist and saw mill." * This is tlie portage of the Kankakee, a place conspicuous for its historical reminiscences. It was much used, and offered a choice of routes to the Illinois River, and also to the Wabash, by a longer land- carriage to the upper waters of the Tippecanoe. A memoir on the Indians of Canada, etc., prepared in the year 1718 (Paris Documents, vol. 1, p. 889), says: "The river St. Joseph is south of Lake Michi- gan, formerly the Lake of the Illinois ; many take this river to pass to the Rocks [as Fort St. Louis, situated on ' Starved Rock ' in La Salle county, Illinois, was sometimes called], because it is convenient, and they thereby avoid the portages ' des Chaines ' and ^des Perches^ " — two long, difficult carrying places on the Desplaines, which had to be encountered in dry seasons, on the route by the way of Chicago Creek. The following description of the Kankakee portage, and its adjacent surroundings, is as that locality appeared to Father Hennepin, when he was there with La Salle's party of voyagers two hundred years ago the coming December : " The next morning (December 5, 1679) we joined our men at the portage, where Father Gabriel had made the daj- before several crosses upon the trees, that we might not miss it another time." The voyagers had passed above the portage without being aware of it, as the country was all strange to them. We found here a great quan- tity of horns and bones of wild oxen, buffalo, and also some canoes the savages had made with the skins of beasts, to cross the river with their provisions. This portage lies at the farther end of a champaign ; and at the other end to the west lies a village of savages, — Miamis, Mascoutines and Oiatinons (Weas), who live together. " The river of the Illinois has its source near that village, and springs out of some marshy lands that are so quaking that one can scarcely walk over them. The head of the river is onl}' a league and a half from that of the Mi- amis (the St. Joseph), and so our portage was not long. We marked the way from place to place, with some trees, for the convenience of those we expected after us; and left at the portage as well as at Fort * Prof. G. I\I. Levette's Kepoit on the Geology of St. Joseph County: Geological Survey of Indiana for the year 1873, p. 459. THE KANKAKEE. 25 Miamis (which they had previously erected at the month of the St. Joseph), letters hanging down from the trees, containing M. La Salle's instructions to our pilot, and the other iive-and-twenty men who were to come with him." The pilot had been sent back from Mackinaw with La Salle's ship, the Griffin, loaded with furs ; was to discharge the cargo at the fort below the mouth of Niagara River, and then bring the ship with all dispatch to the St. Joseph. " The Illinois Hiver (continues Hennepin's account) is navigable within a hundred paces from its source, — I mean for canoes of barks of trees, and not for others, — but increases so much a little way from thence, that it is as deep and broad as the Meuse and the Sambre joined together. It runs through vast marshes, and although it be rapid enough, it makes so many turnings and windings, that after a whole day's journey we found that we were hardly two leagues from the place we left in the morning. That country is nothing but marshes, full of alder trees and bushes ; and we could have hardly found, for forty leagues together, any place to plant our cabins, had it not been for the frost, which made the earth more firm and consistent." CHAPTER IV. RAINFALL. An interesting topic connected with our rivers is the question of rainfall. Tlie streams of the west, unlike those of mountainous dis- tricts, which are fed largely by springs and brooks issuing from the rocks, are supplied mostly from the clouds. It is within the observa- tion of persons who lived long in the valleys of the Wabash and Illinois, or along their tributaries, that these streams apparently carr}- a less volume of water than formerly. Indeed, the water-courses seem to be gradually diwing up, and the whole surface of the country drained l)y them has undergone the same change. In early days almost every land-owner on the prairies had upon his farm a pond that furnished an unfailing supply of water for his live stock the year around. These never went dry, even in the driest seasons. Formerly the Wabash afforded reliable steamboat navigation as high up as La Fayette. In 1831, between the 5th of March and the 16th of April, fifty-four steamboats arrived and departed from Yin- cennes. In the months of February, March and A]iril of the same year, there were sixty arrivals and departures from La Fayette, then a village of only three or four hundred houses ; many of these boats w^ere large side-wheel steamers, built for navigating the Ohio and Mississippi, and known as New Orleajis or lower river boats.* The writer has the concurrent evidence of scores of early settlers with whom he has con- versed that formerly the Vermilion, at Danville, had to be ferried on an average six months during the year, and the river was considered low when it could be forded at this place without water running into the wagon bed. Now it is fordable at all times, except w-hen swollen with freshets, M-hich now subside in a very few- days, and often within as many hours. Doubtless, the same facts can be affirmed of the many other tributaries of \he Illinois and Wabash whose names have been already given. The early statutes of Illinois and Indiana are replete with special laws, passed between the years 1825 and 184u, when the people of these two states were crazed over the (juestion of internal navigation, providing enactments and chartei's for the slack-water improvement of * Tanner's View of the Mississippi, published in 1832, p. 154. 26 V RAINFALL. 27 hundreds of streams whose insignificance have now only a dry bed, most of the year, to indicate that they were ever dignified with sucli legislation and invested with the promise of bearing upon their bosoms a portion of the fnture internal commerce of the country. It will not do to assume that the seeming decrease of water in the streams is caused by a diminution of rain. The probabilities are that the annual rainfall is greater in Indiana and Illinois than before their settlement with a permanent population. The "settling up" of a country, tilling its soil, planting trees, constructing railroads, and erect- ing telegraph lines, all tend to induce moisture and produce changes i^ the electric and atmospheric currents that invite the clouds to pre- cipitate their showers. Such has been the effect produced by the hand of man upon the hitherto arid plains of Kansas and JSIebraska. Indeed, at an early day some portions of Illinois were considered as uninhab- itable as western Kansas and Nebraska were supposed, a few years ago, to be on account of the prevailing drouths. That part of the state lying between the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers, south of a line run- ning from the Mississippi, between Rock Island and Mercer counties, east to the Illinois, set off for the benefit of the soldiers of the War of 1812, and for that reason called the " Military Tract," except that part of it lying more immediately near the rivers named, was laid under the bane of a drouth-stricken region. Mr. Lewis A. Beck, a shrewd and impartial observer, and a gentleman of great scientific attainments,* was through the " military tract " shortly after it had been run out into sections and townships by the government, and says concerning it, " The northern part of the tract is not so favorable for settlement. The prairies become very extensive and are badly watered. In fact, this last is an objection to the whole tract. In dry seasons it is not unusual to walk through beds of the largest streams without finding a drop of water. It is not surprising that a country so far distant from the sea and drained by such large rivers, which have a course of several thousand miles before they reach the great reservoir, should not be well watered. This, we observe, is the case with all fine-flowing streams of the highlands, whereas those of the Champaign and prairies settle in the form of ponds, which stagnate and putrify. Besides, on the same account there are very few heavy rains in the summer ; and hence during that season water is exceedingly scarce. The Indians, in their journeys, pass by places where they know there are ponds, but gener- ally they are under the necessity of carrying water in bladders. This drouth is not confined to the ' military tract,' but in some seasons is very general. During the summer/ of 1820 it was truly alarmii:^g; * Beck's Illinois and Missouri Gazetteer, published in 1823, pp. 79, 80. 28 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. travelers, in many instances, were obliged to pass whole days, in the warmest weather, without being able to procure a cupful of water for themselves or their horses, and that which they occasionally did find was almost })utrid. It may be remarked, however, that such seasons rarely occur; but on account of its being washed by rivers of such immense lengtii this section of the country is peculiarly liable to sutler from excessive drouth." The millions of bushels of grain annually raised in, and the vast herds of cattle and other live stock that are fat- tened on, the rich pastures of Bureau, Henry, Stark, Peoria, Knox, Warren, and other counties lying wholly or partially within the "mili- tary tract," illustrate an increase and uniformity of rainfall since the time Professor Beck recorded his observations. In no part of Illinois are the crops more abundant and certain, and less liable to suffer from excessive drouth, than in the " military tract." The apparent decrease in the volume of water carried by the Wabash and its tributaries is easily reconciled with the theory of an increased rainfall since the settlement of the country. These streams for the most part have their sources in ponds, marshes and low grounds. These basins, covering a great extent of the surface of the country, served as reservoirs ; the earth was cov- ered with a thick turf that prevented the water penetrating the ground ; tall grasses in the valleys and about the margin of the ponds impeded the liow of water, and fed it out graduall}^ to the rivers. In the tim- ber the marshes were likewise protected from a rapid discharge of their contents by the trunks of fallen trees, limbs and leaves. Since the lands have been reduced to cultivation, millions of acres of sod have been broken by the plow, a spongy surface has been turned to the heavens and much of the rainfall is at once soaked into the ground. The ponds and low grounds have been drained. The tall grasses witli their mat of penetrating roots have disappeared from the swales. The brooks and drains, from causes partially natural, or artifi- cially aided by man, have cut through the ancient turf and made well defined ditches. The rivers themselves have worn a deeper passage in their beds. By these means the water is now soon collected from the earth's surface and carried oft' with increased velocit}-. Formerly the streams would sustain their volume continuousl}- for weeks. Hence much of the rainfall is directly taken into the ground, and only a por- tion of it now finds its way to the rivers, and that which iloes has a speedier exit. Besides this, settlement of and particularly the growing of trees on the prairies and the clearing out of the excess of forests in the timbered districts, tends to distribute the rainfall more evenly through- out the year, and in a large degree prevents the recurrence of those ex- tremes of drouth and flood with which this country was formerly visited. CHAPTER V. ORIGIN OF THE PRAIRIES. The prairies have ever been a wonder, and their origin the theme of much curious specuhition. The vast extent of these natural meadows would naturally excite curiosity, and invite the many theories which, from time to time, have been advanced by writers holding conflicting opinions as to the manner in which they were formed. Major Stod- dard, II. M. Braekenridge and .Governor Reynolds, whose personal acquaintance with the prairies, eastward of the Mississippi, extended back prior to the year 1800, and whose observations were supported by the experience of other contemporaneous residents of the west, held that the prairies w^ere caused by fire. The prairies are covered Avith grass, and were probably occasioned by the ravages of fire ; because wherever copses of trees were found on them, the grounds about them are low and too moist to admit the fire to pass over it ; and because it is a common practice among the Indians and other hunters to set the woods and prairies on fire, by means of which they are able to kill an abundance of game. They take secure stations to the leeward, and the fire drives the game to them.* The plains of Indiana and Illinois have been mostly produced by the same caiise. They are very different from the Savannahs on the seaboard and the innnense plains of the upper Missouri. In the prairies of Indiana I have been assured that the woods in places have been known to recede, and in others to increase, within the recollection of the old inhabitants. In moist places, the woods are still standing, the fire meeting here with obstruction. Trees, if planted in these prairies, would doubtless grow. In the islands, preserved by accidental causes, the progress of the fire can be traced ; the first burning would only scorch the outer bark of the tree; this would render it more susceptible to the next, the third would completely kill. I have seen in places, at present completely prairie, pieces of burnt trees, proving that the prairie had been caused by fire. The grass is generally very luxuriant, which is not the case in the plains of the Missouri. There may, doubtless, be spots where the proportion of salts or other bodies may be such as to favor the growth of grass only.f * Sketches of Louisiana, by Magor Amos Stoddard, p. 213. t Brackenridge's Views of Louisiana, p. 108. 29 30 HISTORIC NOTES ON TH li NORTHWEST. Governor Reynolds, who came to Illinois at the age of thirteen, in the year ISOO, and lived here for over sixty years, the greater portion of his time employed in a public capacity, roving over the prairies in the Indian border wars or overseeing the afiairs of a public and busy life, in his interesting autobiography, published in 1855, says: "Many learned essays are written on the origin of the prairies, but any atten- tive observer will come to the conclusion that it is fire burning the strong, high grass that caused the prairies. I have witnessed the growth of the forest in these southern counties of Illinois, and know there is more timber in them now than there was forty or fifty years before. The obvious reason is, the fire is kept out. This is likewise the reason the prairies are generally the most fertile soil. The vegeta- tion in them was the strongest and the fires there burnt with the most power. The timber was destroyed more rapidly in the fertile soil than in the barren lands. It will be seen that tlie timber in the north of the state, is found only on the margins of streams and other places where the prairie fires could not reach it." The later and more satisfactory theory is, that the prairies were formed by the action of water instead of fire. This position was taken and very ablj' discussed by that able and learned writer, Judge James Hall, as early as 1836. More recently. Prof. Lesquereux prepared an article on the origin and formation of the prairies, published at length in vol. 1, Geological Survey of Illinois, pp. 238 to 254, inclusive ; and Dr. Worthen, the head of the Illinois Geological Department, referring to this article and its author, gives to both a most flattering indorsement. Declining to discuss the comparative merits of the various theories as to the formation of the prairies, the doctor " refers the reader to the very able chapter on the subject by Prof. Lesquereux. whose thorough acquaintance, both with fossil and recent botany, and the general laws which govern the distribution of the ancient as M'ell as the recent flora, entitles his opinion to our most profound consideration." ^' Prof. Lesquereux' article is exhaustive, and his conclusions are summed up in the declaration " that all the prairies of the Mississippi Valley have been formed by the slow recessions of waters of vai'ious extent; first transformed into swamps, and In the process of time drained and dried; and that the high rolling prairies, and those of these bottoms along the rivers as well, are all the result of the same cause, and form one whole, indivisible system." Still later, another eminent writer, Hon. John D. Caton. late Judge of the Supreme Court of Illinois, has given the result of his observa- * Chap. 1, p. 10, Geology of Illinois, by Dr. Worthen; vol. 1, Illinois Geological Survey. THE PRAIRIES. 31 tions. While assenting to the received conclusion that the prairies — the land itself — have been formed under water, exce])t the decomposed animal and vegetable matter that has been added to the surface of the lands since their emergence, the judge dissents from Prof. Lesquereux, in so far as the latter holds that the presence of ulmic acid and other unfavorable chemicals in the soil of the prairies, rendered them unfit for the growth of trees ; and in extending his theory to the prairies on the uplands, as well as in their more level and marshy portions. The learned judge holds to the popular theory that the most potent cause in keeping the prairies as such, and retarding and often destroying forest growth on them, is the agency of fire. Whatever may have been the condition of the ground when the prairie lands first emerged from the waters, or the chemical changes they may have since under- gone, how many years the process of vegetable growth and decay may have gone on, adding their deposits of rich loam to the original sur- face, making the soil the most fertile in the world, is a matter of mere speculation ; certain it is, however, that ever within the knowledge of man the prairies have possessed every element of soil necessary to in- sure a rapid and vigorous growth of forest trees, wherever the germ could find a lodgment and their tender years be protected against the one formidable enemy, fire. Judge Caton gives the experience of old settlers in the northern part of the state, similar to that of Bracken- ridge and Reynolds, already quoted, where, on the Vermillion River of the Illinois, and also in the neighborhood of Ottawa many years ago, fires occurred under the observation of the narrators, which utterly destroyed, root and branch, an entire hardwood forest, the prairie taking immediate possession of the burnt district, clothing it with grasses of its own ; and in a few years this forest land, reclaimed to prairie, could not be distinguished from the prairie itself, except from its greater luxuriance. Judge Caton's illustration of how the forests obtain a foot-hold in the prairies is so aptly expressed, and in such harmony with the ex- perience of every old settler on the prairies of eastern Illinois and western Indiana, that we quote it. '• The cause of the absence of trees on the upland prairies is the problem most important to the agricultural interests of our state, and it is the inquiry which alone I propose to consider, but cannot resist the remark that wherever we do find timber throughout this broad field of ])rairie, it is always in or near the humid portions of it, — as along the nuirgins of streams, or upon or near the springy uplands. Many most luxuriant groves are found on the highest portions of the uplands, but always in the neighborhood of water. For a remarkable 32 HISTORIC XOTKS ON THE XOUTUWEST. example I may refer to that great chain of groves extending from and including the An Sable Grove on the east and llolderman's Grove on the west, in Kendall county, occupying the liigli divide between the waters of the Illinois and the Fox Rivers. In and around all the groves flowing springs abound, and some of them are separated by marshes, to the very borders of which the great trees approach, as if the forest were ready to seize upon each yard of ground as soon as it is elevated above the swamps. Indeed, all our groves seem to be located M'here water is so disposed as to protect them, to a great or less extent, from the prairie fire, although not so situated as to irrigate them. If the head-waters of the streams on the prairies are niost frequently with- out timber, so soon as they have attained sufficient volume to impede the progress of the fires, with very few exceptions we find forests on their borders, becoming broader and more vigorous as the magnitude of the streams increase. It is manifest that land located on the borders of streams which the fire cannot pass are only exposed to one-half the fires to which they would be exposed but for such protection. This tends to show, at least, that if but one-half the fires that have occurred had been kindled, the arboraceous growth could have withstood their destructive influences, and the whole surface of what is now prairie would be forest. Another confirmatory fact, patent to all observers, is, that the prevailing winds upon the prairies, especially in the autumn, are from the loest., and these give direction to the prairie fires. Conse- quently, the lands on the westerl}' sides of the streams are the most exposed to the fires, and, as might be expected, we find much the most timber on the easterly sides of the streams." "Another fact, always a subject of remark among the dwellers on the prairies, I regard as conclusive proof that the prairie soils are pecu- liarly adapted to the growth of trees is, that wherever the fires have been kept from the groves by the settlers, they have rapidly encroached upon the prairies, unless closely depastured by the farmers' stock, or prevented by cultivation. This fact I regard as established by careful oljservation of more than thirty-five years, during which 1 have been an interested witness of the settlement of this country, — from the time when a few log cabins, many miles apart, built in the borders of the groves, alone were met with, till now nearly the whole of the great prairies in our state, at least, are brought under cultivation by the? in- dustry of the husbandman. Indeed, this is a fact as well recognized by the settlers as that corn will grow upon the prairies when properly cultivated. Ten vears au'o I heard the observation made bv intellii^ent men, that within the preceding twenty-five years the area of the timber in the prairie portions of the state had actually doubled by the sponta- FOREST ENCROACHMENT. 33 neous extension of the natnral groves. However this may be, certain it is that the encroachments of the timber upon the prairies have been universal and rapid, wherever not impeded by lire or other physical causes." When Europeans first landed in America, as they left the dense forests east of the Alleghanies and went west over the mountains into the valleys beyond, anywhere between Lake Erie and the fortieth degree of latitude, approaching the Scioto Eiver, they would have seen small patches of country destitute of timber. These were called open- ings. As they proceeded farther toward the "Wabash the number and area of these openings or barrens would increase. These last were called by the English savannahs or meadows, and by the French, prairies. Westward of the Wabash, except occasional tracts of timbered lands in northern Indiana, and fringes of forest growth along the inter- vening water-courses, the prairies stretch westward continuously across a part of Indiana and the whole of Illinois to the Mississippi. Taking the line of the Wabash railway, which crosses Illinois in its greatest breadth, and beginning in Indiana, where the railway leaves the tim- ber, west of the Wabash nearMarshfield, the prairie extends to Quincy, a distance of more than two hundred and fifty miles, and its contin- uity the entire way is only broken by four strips of timber along four streams running at right angles with the route of the railway, namely the timber on the Vermillion River, between Danville and the Indiana state-line, the Sangamon, seventy miles west of Danville near Decatur, the Sangamon again a few miles east of Springfield, and the Illinois River at Meredosia ; and all of the timber at the crossing of these several streams, if put together, would not aggregate fifteen miles against the two hundred and fifty miles of prairie. Taking a north and south direction and parallel with the drainage of the rivers, one could start near Ashley, on the Illinois Central railway, in Washing- ton county, and going northward, nearly on an air-line, keeping on the divide between the Kaskaskia and Little Wabash, the Sangamon and the Yermillion, the Iroquois and the Vermillion of the Illinois, cross- ing the latter stream between the mouths of the Fox and Du Page and travel through to the state of AVisconsin, a distance of nearly three hundred miles, without encountering five miles of timber during the whole journey. Mere figures of distances across the '* Grand Prairie,'' as this vast meadow was called by the old settlers, fiiil to give an ade- quate idea of its magnitude. Let the reader, in fancy, go back fifty or sixty 3'ears, when there were no farms between the settlement on the Xorth Arm Prairie, in Edgar county, and Ft. Clark, now Peoria, on the Illinois River, or 3 34 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST, between the Salt Works, west of Danville, and Ft. Dearborn, where Chicago now is, or when there was not a house between the Wabash and Illinois Rivers in the direction of La Fayette and Ottawa ; when there was not a solitary road to mark the way ; wlien Indian trails alone led to unknown places, where no animals except the wild deer and slinking wolf would stare, the one with timid wonder, the other with treacherous leer, upon the ventursome traveler; when the gentle winds moved the supple grasses like waves of a green sea under the sum- mer's sky; — the beauty, the grandeur and solitude of the prairies may be imagined as they were a reality to the pioneer when he first beheld them. There is an essential diiference between the prairies eastward of the Mississippi and the great plains westward necessary to be borne in mind. The western plains, while they present a seeming level appear- ance to the eye, rise ra})idly to the westward. From Kansas City to Pueblo the ascent is continuous ; beyond Ft. Dodge, the plains, owing to their elevation and consequent dryness of the atmosphere and absence of rainfall, produce a thin and stunted vegetation. The prai- ries of Illinois and Indiana, on the contrary, are much nearer the sea- level, where the moisture is greater. There were many ponds and sloughs which aided in producing a humid atmosphere, all which induced a rank growth of grasses. All early writers, referring to the vegetation of our prairies, including Fathers Hennepin, St. Cosme, Charlevoix and others, who recorded their personal observations nearly two hundred years ago, as well as later English and American travel- ers, bear uniform testimony to the fact of an unusually luxuriant growth of grasses. Earl}' settlers, in the neighborhood of the author, all bear witness to the rank growth of vegetation on the prairies before it was grazed by live stock, and supplanted with shorter grasses, that set in as the country improved. Since the organization of Edgar county in 1S23, — of which all the territory north to the Wisconsin line was then a part, — on the level prairie between the present sites of Danville and Georiietown, the i>:rass o-rew so hi^h that it Avas a source of amusement to tie the tops over the withers of a horse, and in places the height of the grass would nearly obscure both horse and rider from view. This was not a slough, but on arable land, where some of the first farms in Vermillion county were broken out. On the high rolling prairies the vegetation was very much shorter, though thick and compact ; its aver- age heii::ht beiuijj about two feet. The prairie fires have been represented in exaggerated pictures of men and wild animals retreating at full speed, with every mark of ter- PRAIRIE FIRES. 35 ror, before the devouring element. Such pictures are overdrawn. In- stances of loss of lunnan life, or animals, may have sometimes occurred. The advance of the lire is rapid or slow, as the wind may be strong or light ; the flames leaping high in the air in their progress over level ground, or burning lower over the uplands. When a fire starts under favorable causes, the horizon gleams brighter and brighter until a fiery redness rises above its dark outline, while heavy, slow-moving masses of dark clouds curve upward above it. In another moment the blaze itself shoots up, first at one spot then at another, advancing until the whole horizon extending across a wide prairie is clothed with flames, that roll and curve and dash onward and upward like waves of a burn- ing ocean, lighting up the landscape with the brilliancy of noon-day. A roaring, crackling sound is heard like the rushing of a hurricane. The flame, which in general rises to the height of twenty feet, is seen rolling its waves against each other as the liquid, fiery mass moves for- ward, leaving behind it a blackened surface on the ground, and long trails of murky smoke floating above. A more terrific sight than the burning prairies in early days can scarcely be conceived. Woe to the farmer whose fields extended into the prairie, and who had sufiered the tall grass to grow near his fences ; the labor of the year would be swept away in a few hours. Such accidents occasionally occurred, although the preventive was simple. The usual remedy was to set fire against fire, or to burn ofi" a strip of grass in the vicinity of the improved ground, a beaten road, the treading of domestic animals about the inclosure of the farmer, would generally afford protection. In other cases a few furrows would be plowed around the field, or the grass closely mowed between the outside of the fence and the open prairie.* No wonder that the Indians, noted for their naming a place or thing from some of its distinctive peculiarities, should have called the prairies Mas-ko-tia, or the place of fire. In the ancient Algon- quin tongue, as well as in its more modern form of the Ojibbeway (or Chippeway, as this people are improperly' designated), the word scoutay means fire ; and in the Illinois and Pottowatamie, kindred dialects, it is scotte and scutay, respectively.f It is also eminently characteristic that the Indians, who lived and hunted exclusively upon the prairies, were known among their red brethren as " Maskoutes," rendered by the French writers, Maskoutines, or People of the Fire or Prairie Country. North of a line drawn west from Yincennes, Illinois is wholly * Judge James Hall: Tales of the Border, p. 244; Statistics of the West, p. 82. t Gallatin's Synopsis of the Indian Tribes, etc. 36 HISTOUIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. prairie, — always excepting the tliin curtain of timber draping tlie water-courses ; and all that part of Indiana lying north and west of the "Wabash, embracing fully one-third of the area of the state, is essentially so. Of the twenty-seven counties in Indiana, lying wholly or partially west and north of the Wabash, twelve of them ai-e prairie ; seven are mixed prairies, barrens and timber, the barrens and prairie predomi- nating. In five, the barrens, with the prairies, are nearly equal to the timber, while only three of the counties can be characterized as heavily timbered. And wherever timber does occur in these twenty-seven counties, it is found in localities favorable to its protection against the ravages of fire, by the proximity of intervening lakes, marshes or water-courses. We cannot know how long it took the forest to ad- vance from the Scioto ; how often capes and points of trees, like skir- mishers of an army, secured a foothold to the eastward of the lakes and rivers of Ohio and Indiana, only to be driven back again by the prairie fires advancing from the opposite direction ; or conceive how many generations of forest growth were consumed by the prairie fires before the timber-line was pushed westward across the state of Ohio, and through Indiana to the banks of the Wabash. The prairies of Illinois and Indiana were born of water and pre- served by fire for the children of civilized men, who have come and taken possession of them. The manner of their coming, and the diffi- culties that befell them on the way, will hereafter be considered. The white man, like the forests, advanced from the east. The red man, like the prairie fires, as we shall hereafter see, came from the west. CHAPTER VL EARLY DISCOVERIES. Having given a description of the lakes and rivers, and noticed some of the more prominent features that characterize the physical geography of the territory within the scope of our inquiry, and the parts necessarily connected with it, forming, as it were, the outlines or ground plan of its history, we will now proceed to fill in the frame- work, with a narration of its discovery. J.acques Cartier, as already intimated in a note on a preceding page, ascended the St. Lawrence River in 1535. He sailed up the stream as far as the great Indian vil- lage of Hoc Lelaga, situated on an island at the foot of the mountain, styled by him Mont Royal, now called Montreal, a name since extend- ed to the whole island. The country thus discovered was called New France. Later, and in the year 1598, France, after fifty years of domestic troubles, recovered her tranquillity, and, finding herself once more equal to great enterprises, acquired a taste for colonization. Her attention was directed to her possessions, by right of discovery, in the new world, where she now wished to establish colonies and extend the faith of the Catholic religion. Commissions or grants were accordingly issued to companies of merchants, and others organized for this pur- pose, who undertool^ to make settlements in Acadia, as Nova Scotia was then called, and elsewhere along the lower waters of the St. Law- rence ; and, at a later day, like efforts were made higher up the river. In 1(507 Mr. De Monts, having failed in a former enterprise, was deprived of his commission, which was restored to him on the condition that he would make a settlement on the St. Lawrence. The company he represented seems to have had the fur trade only in view, and this object caused it to change its plans and avoid Acadia altogether. De Monts' company increased in numbers and capital in proportion as the fur trade developed expectations of profit, and many persons at St. Malo, particularly, gave it their support. Feeling that his name injured his associates, M. De Monts retired ; and when he ceased to be its governing head, the company of merchants recovered the monopoly with which the charter was endowed, for no other object than making money out of the fur trade. They cared nothing whatever for the col- ony in Acadia, which was dying out, and made no settlements else- 37 38 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. where. However, Mr. Samuel Champlain, who cared little for the fur trade, and whose thoughts were those of a patriot, after maturely ex- amining where the settlements directed by the court might be best established, at last fixed on Quebec. He arrived there on the 3d of July, 1608, put up some temporary buildings for himself and company, and began to clear off the ground, which proved fertile.* The colony at Quebec grew apace with emigrants from France ; and later, the establishment of a settlement at the island of Montreal was undertaken. Two religious enthusiasts, the one named Jerome le Hover de la Dauversiere, of Anjou, and the other John James Olier, assumed the undertaking in 1636. The next who joined in the move- ment was Peter Chevirer, Baron Fancamp, who in 1640 sent tools and provisions for the use of the coming settlers. The projectors were now aided by the celebrated Baron de Renty, and two others. Father Charles Lalemant induced John de Lauson, the proprietor of the island of Montreal, to cede it to these gentlemen, which he did in August, 1640 ; and to remove all doubts as to the title, the associates obtained a grant from the New France Company, in December of the same year, which was subsequently ratified by the king himself. The associates agreed to send out forty settlers, to clear and cultivate the ground ; to increase the number annually ; to supply them with two sloops, cattle and farm hands, and, after five years, to erect a seminary, maintain ecclesiastics as missionaries and teachers, and also nuns as teachers and hospitalers. On its part the New France Company agreed to trans- port thirty settlers. The associates then contributed twenty-five thou- sand crowns to begin the settlement, and Mr. de Maisonneuve embarked M'ith his colony on three vessels, which sailed from Rochelle and Dieppe, in the summer of 1641. The colon}^ wintered in Quebec, spending their time in building boats and preparing timber for their houses ; and on the Stli of May, 1642, embarked, and arrived nine days after at the island of Montreal, and after saying mass began an intrenchment around their tents.f Notwithstanding the severity of the climate, the loss of life by dis- eases incident to settling of new countries, and more especially the * History of New France. fFroiu "Dr. Shea's valuable note on Montreal, on pages 129 and 130, vol. 2, of his translation of Father Charlevoix' History of New France. Mr. Albach, publisher of "Annals of the West," Pittsburgh edition, 1857, p. 49, is in error in saying that Montreal was founded in 1613, by Samuel Champlain. Champlain, in company with a young Huron Indian, whom he had taken to and brought back from France on a previous voyage, visited the island of Montreal in IGll, and chose it as a place for a settlement he designed to establish, but which he did not begin, as he was oljliged to return to France; ride Charlevoix' " History of New France," vol. 2, p. 23. The Ameri- can Clyclopedia, as well as other authorities, concur with Dr. Shea, that Montreal was founded in 1642, seven years after Champlain's death. QUEBEC FOUNDED. 39 destruction of its people from raids of the dreaded Iroquois Indians, the French colonies grew until, according to a report of Governor Mons. Denonville to the Minister at Paris, the population of Canada, in 1686, had increased to 12,373 souls. Quebec and Montreal became the base of operations of the French in America; the places from which missionaries, traders and explorers went out among the savages into countries hitherto unknown, going northward and westward, even beyond the extremity of Lake Superior to the upper waters of the Mississippi, and southward to the Gulf of Mexico ; and it was from these cities that the religious, military and commercial affairs of this widely extended region were administered, and from which the French settlements subsequently established in the northwest and at New Orleans were principally recruited. The influence of Quebec and Montreal did not end with the fall of French power in America. It was from these cities that the English retained control of the fur trade in, and exerted a power over the Indian tribes of, the northwest that harassed and retarded the spread of the American settlements through all the revolutionary war, and during the later contest between Great Britain and the United States in the war of 1812. Indeed, it was only until after the fur trade was exhausted and the Indians j^laced beyond the Mississippi, subsequent to 1820, that Quebec and Montreal ceased to exert an influence in that part of New France now known as Illinois and Indiana. Father Claude Allouez, coasting westward from Sault Ste. Marie, reached Chegoimegon, as the Indians called the bay south of the Apos- tle Islands and near^La Pointe on the southwestern shore of Lake Supe- rior, in October, 1665. Here he found ten or twelve fragments of Algonquin tribes assembled and about to hang the war kettle over the tire preparatory for an incursion westward into the territory of the Sioux. The good father persuaded them to give up their intended hostile expedition. He set up in their midst a chapel, to which he gave the name of the '' Mission of the Holy Ghost," at the spot afterward known as " Lapointe du Saint Esprit," and at once began his mission work. His chapel was an object of wonder, and its establishment soon spread among the wild children of the forest, and thither from great distances came numbers all alive with curiosity, — the roving Potta- watomies. Sacs and Foxes, the Kickapoos, the Illinois and Miamis, — to whom the truths of Christianity were announced.* Three years later Father James Manpiette took the place of Allouez, and while here he seems to have been the first that learned of the Missis- sippi. In a letter written from this mission by Father Marquette to * Shea's History of Catholic Missions, 358. 40 HISTORIC NOTES ON THK NORTHWEST. his Reverend Father Superior, preserved in the Relations for 1669 and 1670, he says: "When the Illinois come to the point the}' pass a great river, which is almost a league in width. It flows from north to south, and to so great a distance that the Illinois, who know nothing of the use of the canoe, have never as yet heard tell of the mouth ; they only know that there are great nations below them, some of whom, dwelling to the east-southeast of their country, gather their Indian-corn twice a year. A nation that they call Chaouanon (Shawnecs) came to visit them during the past summer; the young man that has been given to me to teach me the language has seen them ; they were loaded with glass beads, which shows that they have connnunication with the Europeans. They had to journey across the land for more than thirty days before arriving at their country. It is hardly probable that this • great river discharges itself in Virginia. We are more inclined to believe that it has its mouth in California. If the savages, who have promised to make me a canoe, do not fail in their word, we will navi- gate this river as far as is possible in company with a Frenchman and this young man that they have given me, who understands several of these languages and possesses great facility for acquiring others. We shall visit the nations M'ho dwell along its shores, in order to open the way to many of our fathers who for a long time have awaited this happiness. This discovery will give us a perfect knowledge of the sea either to the south or to the west." These reports concerning the great river came to the knowledge of the authorities at Quebec and Paris, and naturally enough stimu- lated further inquiry. There were three theories as to where the river emptied ; one, that it discharged into the Atlantic south of the British colony of Yiiginia; second, that it flowed into the Gulf of Mexico; and third, which was the more popular belief, that it emptied into the Red Sea, as the Gulf of California was called ; and if the latter, that it would afl:brd a passage to China. To solve this important commercial problem in geography, it was determined, as appears from a letter from the Governor, Count Frontenac, at Quebec, to M. Colbert, Minister of the navy at Paris, expedient " for the service to send Sieur Joliet to the country of the Mascoutines, to discover the South Sea and the great river — they call the Mississippi — which is supposed to discharge itself into the Sea of California. Sieur Joliet is a man of great experience in these sorts of discoveries, and has already been almost to that great river, the mouth of which he promises to see. We shall have intelli- gence of him, certainly, this summer.* Father Marquette was chosen to accompany Joliet on account of the information he had already ob- * Paris Documents, vol. 9, p. 92. SPANISH EXPLORATIONS. 41 tained from the Indians relating to the countries to be explored, and also because, as he wrote Father Dablon, his superior, Avhen informed by the latter that he was to be Joliet's companion, ''1 am ready to <^'o on your order to seek new nations toward the South Sea, and teach them of our great God whom they hitherto have not known." The voyage of Joliet and Marquette is so interesting that we intro- duce extracts from Father Marquette's journal. The version we adopt is Father Marquette's original journal, prepared for publication by his superior, Father Dablon, and which lay in manuscript at Quebec, among the archives of the Jesuits, until 1852, when it, together with Father Marquette's original map, were brought to light, translated into Eng- lish, and published by Dr. John G. Shea, in his " Discovery- and Explo- ration of the Mississippi." The version commonly sanctioned was Marquette's narrative sent to the French government, where it lay unpublished until it came into the hands of M. Thevenot, who printed it at Paris, in a book issued by him in 1681, called " Receuil de Voy- ages," This account differs somewhat, though not essentially, from the narrative as published by Dr. Shea. Before proceeding farther, however, we will turn aside a moment to note the fact that Spain had a prior right over France to the Missis- sippi Valley by virtue of previous discovery. As early as the year 1525, Cortez had conquered Mexico, portioned out its rich mines among his favorites and reduced the inoffensive inhabitants to the worst of slavery, making them till the ground and toil in the mines for their unfeeling masters. A few years following the conquest of Mexico, the Spaniards, under Pamphilus de Xarvaez, in 1528, undertook to conquer and colonize Florida and the entire northern coast-line of the Gulf. After long and fruitless wanderings in the interior, his party returned to the sea-coast and endeavored to reach Tampico, in wretched boats. Nearly all perished by storm, disease or famine. The survivors, with one Cabeza de Vaca at their head, drifted to an island near the present state of Mississippi ; from which, after four years of slavery, De Vaca, with four companions, escaped to the mainland and started westward, going clear across the continent to the Gulf of California. The natives took them for supernatural beings. They assumed the guise of jugglers, and the Indian tribes, through which they passed, invested them with the title of medicine-men, and their lives were thus guarded with superstitious awe. They are, perhaps, the first Eui'opeans who ever went overland from the Atlantic to the Pacific. They must have crossed the Great River somewhere on their route, and, says Dr. Shea, " remain in history, in a distant twilight, as the first Europeans known to have stood on the banks of the Mississippi." In 1539, 42 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. Hernando de Soto, with a party of cavaliers, most of them sons of titled nobility, landed with their horses upon the coast of Florida. During that and the following four years, these daring adventurers wandered through the wilderness, traveling in portions of Florida, Carolina, the northern parts of Georgia, Alabama and Mississippi, crossing the Mississippi, as is supposed, as high up as "White River, and going still westward to the base of the Rocky Mountains, vainly searching for the rich gold mines of which De Vaca had given marvel- ous accounts. De Soto's party endured hardships that would depress the stoutest heart, while, with fire and sword, they perpetrated atrocities upon the Indian tribes through which they passed, burning their villages and inflictina: cruelties which make us blush for the wicked- ness of men claiming to be christians. De Soto died, in May or June, 1542, on the banks of the Mississippi, below the mouth of the "Washita, and his immediate attendants concealed his death from the others and secretly, in the night, buried his body in the middle of the stream. The remnant of his survivors went westward and then returned back again to the river, passing the winter upon its banks. The following spring they went down the river, in seven boats which they had rudely constructed out of such scanty material and with the few tools they could command. In these, after a three months' voyage, they arrived at the Spanish town of Panuco, on the river of that name in Mexico. Later, in 15G5, Spain, filling in previous attempts, effected a lodg- ment in Florida, and for the protection of her colony built the fort at St. Augustine, whose ancient ruin, still standing, is an object of curi- osity to the health-seeker and a monument to the hundreds of native Indians who, reduced to bondage by their Spanish conquerors, perished, after years of unrequited labor, in erecting its frowning walls and gloomy dungeons. "While Spain retained her hold upon Mexico and enlarged her posses- sions, and continued, with feebler efforts, to keep possession of the Floridas, she took no measures to establish settlements along the Mis- sissippi or to avail herself of the advantage that might have resulted from its discovery. The Great River excited no further notice after De Soto's time. For the next hundred years it remained as it were a sealed mystery until the French, approaching from the north by way of tlie lakes, explored it in its entire length, and brought to public light the vast extent and wonderful fertility of its valleys. Resuming the thread of our history at the place where we turned aside to notice the movements of the Spanish toward the Gulf, we now pro- ceed witli the extracts from Father Marquette's journal of the voyage of discovery down the Mississippi. CHAPTER VII. JOLIET AND MARQUETTE'S VOYAGE. The day of the Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin, whom I had always invoked, since I have been in this Ottawa country, to obtain of God the grace to be able to visit the nations on the River Mississippi, was identically that on which M. Jollyet arrived with orders of the Comte de Frontenac, our governor, and M. Talon, our intendant, to nuike this discovery with rae. I was the more enraptured at this good news, as I saw my designs on the point of being accom- plished, and myself in the happy necessity of exposing my life for the salvation of all these nations, and particularly for the Illinois, who had, when I was at Lapointe du Esprit, very earnestly entreated me to carry the word of God to their countr3^" " We were not long in preparing our outfit, although we were embarking on a voyage the duration of which we could not foresee. Indian corn, with some dried meats, was our whole stock of provisions. With this we set out in two bark canoes, M. Jollyet, myself and five men, firmly resolved to do all and suffer all for so glorious an enterprise." "It was on the 17th of May, 1673, that we started from the mission of St. Ignatius, at Michilimakinac, where I then was,"* " Our joy at being chosen for this expedition roused our courage and sweetened the labor of rowing from mornino; to niffht. As we were going to seek unknown countries, we took all possible precau- tions that, if our enterprise was hazardous, it should not be foolhardy; for this reason we gathered all possible information from the Indians who had frequented those parts, and even from their accounts, traced a map of all the new country, marking down the rivers on which we were to sail, the names of the nations and places through wliich we were to pass, the course of the Great Kiver, and what direction we should take when we got to it." "Above all, I put our voyage under the protection of the Blessed Virgin Immaculate, promising her that, if she did us the grace to dis- cover the Great River, I would give it the name of the conception ; *St. Ignatius was not on the Island of Mackinaw, hut westward of it, on a point of land extending into the strait, from the north shore, laid down on modern maps as "Point St. Ignace." On this bleak, exposed and barren spot this mission was estab- lished by Marquette himself in 1671. Shea's Catholic Missions, p. 364. 4.3 44 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. and that I would also give that name to the first mission I should estal)lish among these new nations, as I have actually done among the Illinois."' After some days they reached an Indian village, and the journal proceeds : " Here we are, then, at the Maskoutens. This word, in Algonquin, may mean Fire Nation, and that is the name given to them. This is the limit of discoveries made by the French, for they have not yet passed beyond it. This town is made up of three nations gathered here, Miarais, Maskoutens and Kikabous.* As bark for cabins, in tliis country, is rare, they use rushes, which serve them for walls and roofs, but which aftbrd them no protection against the wind, and still less against the rain when it falls in torrents. The advantage of this kind of cabins is that they can roll them up and carry them easily where they like in hunting time." " I felt no little pleasure in beholding the position of this town. The view is beautiful and very picturesque, for, from the eminence on which it is perched, the eye discovers on everj^ side prairies spreading away beyond its reach interspersed with thickets or groves of trees. The soil is very good, producing much corn. The Indians gather also quantities of plums and grapes, from which good wine could be made if they choose." "No sooner had we arrived than M. Jollyet and I assembled the Sachems. He told them that he was sent by our governor to discover new countries, and I by the Almighty to illumine them with the light of the gospel ; that the Sovereign Master of our lives wished to be known to all nations, and that to obey his will I did not fear death, to which I exposed myself in such dangerous voyages ; that we needed two guides to put us on our way ; these, making them a present, we begged them to grant us. This they did very civilly, and even pro- ceeded to speak to us by a present, which was a mat to serve [is on our voyage." "The next day, which was the 10th of June, two Miamis whom they had given us as guides embarked with us in the sight of a great crowd, who could not wonder enough to see seven Frenchmen, alone in two canoes, dare to undertake so strange and so hazardous an expe- dition." " "We knew that there was, three leagues from Maskoutens, a river emptying into the Mississippi. We knew, too, that the point of the compass we were to hold to reach it was the west-southwest, but the * The village was near the mouth of Wolf River, which empties into Winnebago Lake, Wisconsin. The stream was formerly called the Maskouten, and a tribe of this name dwelt along its banks. Marquette's voyage. 45 way is so cut up with marshes and little lakes that it is easy to go astray, especially as the river leading- to it is so covered with wild oats that you can hardly discover the channel ; hence we had need of our two guides, who led us safely to a portage of twenty-seven hundred paces and helped us transport our canoes to enter this river, after which they returned, leaving us alone in an unknown country in the hands of Providence."* '' We now leave the waters which flow to Quebec, a distance of four or live hundred leagues, to follow those which will henceforth lead us into strange lands. " Our route was southwest, and after sailing about thirty leagues we perceived a place which had all the appearances of an iron mine, and in tact one of our ]:)arty who had seen some before averred that the one we had found was very rich and very good. After forty leagues on this same route we reached the mouth of our river, and finding our- selves at 42^° N. we safely entered the Mississippi on the 17th of June Avith a joy that I cannot express."t * This portage has given the name to Portage City, Wisconsin, where the upper waters of Fox River, emptying into Green Bay, approach the Wisconsin River, which, coming from the northwest, here changes its course to the southwest. The distance from the Wisconsin to the Fox River at this point is, according to Henry R. School- craft, a mile and a half across a level prairie, and the level of the two streams is so nearly the same that in high water loaded canoes formerly passed from the one to the other across this low prairie. For many miles below the portage the channel of Fox River was choked with a growth of tangled wild rice. The stream frequently expanding into little lakes, and its winding, crooked course through the prairie, well justifies the tradition of the Winnebago Indiaus concerning its origin. A vast serpent that lived in the waters of the Mississippi took a freak to visit the great lakes ; he left his trail where he crossed over the prairie, which, collecting the waters as they fell from the rains of heaven, at length became Fox River. The little lakes along its course wei-e, prob- ably, the places where he flourished about in his uneasy slumbers at night. Mrs. John H. Kinzie's Waubun, p. 80. t Father Marquette, agreeably to his vow, named the river the Immaculate Concep- tion. Nine years later, when Robert La Salle, having discovered the river in its entire length, took possession at its mouth of the whole Mississippi Valley, he named the river Colbert, in honor of the Minister of the Navy, a man renowned alike for his ability, at the head of the Department of the Marine, and for the encouragement he gave to literature, science and art. Still later, in 1712, when the vast country drained by its waters was farmed out to private enterprise, as appears from letters patent from the King of France, conveying the whole to M. Crozat, the name of the river was changed to St. Lewis. Fortunately the Mississippi retains its aboriginal name, which is a com- pound from the two Algonquin words missi, signifying great, and sepc, a river. The former is variously pronounced »iissil or michil, as in Michilimakinac ; »tichi, as in Mich- igan ; missu, as in Missouri, and missi, as in. the Mississeneway of the Wabash. The variation in pronunciation is not greater than we might expect in an unwritten lan- guage. "The Western Indians," says Mr. Schoolcraft, " have no other word than missi to express the highest degree of magnitude, either in a moral or in a physical sense, and it may be considered as not only synonymous to our word (freat, but also magnificent, supreme, stupendous, etc." Father Hennepin, who next to Marquette wrote concern- ing the derivation of the name, says : " Mississippi, in the language of the Illinois, means the great river." Some authors, perhaps with more regard for a pleasing fic- tion than plain matter-of-fact, have rendered Mississippi "The Father of Waters;" whereas, nos, uoiissci/ and nosha mean father, and neebi, nij>i or iicpee mean water, as universally in the dialect of Algonquin tribes, as does the word missi mean great and sepi a river. 46 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. " Having descended as far as 41" 28', following the same direction, we find that turkeys liave taken the place of game, and pisikious (buf- falo) or wild cattle that of other beasts. " At last, on the 25th of June, we perceived foot-prints of men by the water-side and a beaten path entering a beautiful prairie. We stopped to examine it, and concluding that it was a path leading to some Indian village we resolved to go and reconnoitre ; we accordingh^ left our two canoes in charge of our people, cautioning them to beware of a surprise ; then M. Jollyet and I undertook this rather hazardous discovery for two single men, who thus put themselves at the mercy of an unknown and barbarous people. We followed the little path in silence, and having advanced about two leagues we discovered a village on the banks of the river, and two others on a hill half a league from the former. Then, indeed, we recommended ourselves to God with all our hearts, and having implored his help we passed on undiscovered, and came so near that we even heard the Indians talking. We then deemed it time to announce ourselves, as we did, by a cry which we raised with all our strength, and then halted, without advancing any farther. At this cry the Indians rushed out of their cabins, and hav- ing probably recognized us as French, especially seeing a black gown, or at least having no reason to distrust us, seeing we were but two and had made known our coming, they deputed four old men to come and speak to us. Two carried tobacco-pipes well adorned and trimmed with many kinds of feathers. They marched slowly, lifting their pipes toward the sun as if offering them to it to smoke, but yet without uttering a single word. They were a long time coming the little way from the village to us. Having reached us at last, they stopped to con- sider us attentively. " I now took courage, seeing these ceremonies, which are used by them only with friends, and still more on seeing them covered with stuffs which made me judge them to be allies. I, therefore, spoke to them first, and asked them who they w^ere. They answered that they were Illinois, and in token of peace they presented their pipes to smoke. They then invited us to their village, where all the tribe awaited us with impatience. These pipes for smoking are all called in this country calumets, a word that is so much in use that I shall be obliged to employ it in order to be understood, as I shall have to speak of it frequently. •' At the door of the cabin in which we were to be received was an old man awaiting us in a very remarkable posture, which is their usual ceremony in receiving strangers. This man was standing perfectly naked, with his hands stretched out and raised toward the sun, as if he wished to screen himself from its rays, which, nevertheless, passed PRESENTATION OF THK CALUMKT. 47 through liis fingers to liis tace. When we came near him he ])aid us tliis compliment: 'How beautiful is the sun, O Frenchman, when thou comest to visit us I All our town awaits thee, and thou slialt enter all our cabins in peace/ lie then took us into his, where there was a crowd of people, who devoured us with tlieir eyes but kept a profound silence. We heard, however, these words occasionally ad- dressed to us : ' Well done, brothers, to visit us ! ' As soon as we had taken our places they showed us the usual civility of the country, which is to present the calumet. You must not refuse it unless you would pass for an enemy, or at least for being very impolite. It is, however, enough to pretend to smoke. While all the old men smoked after us to honor us, some came to invite us, on behalf of the great sachem of all the Illinois, to proceed to his town, where he wished to hold a council with us. We went with a good retinue, for all the people who had never seen a Frenchman among them could not tire looking at us; they threw themselves on the grass by the wayside, they ran ahead, then turned and walked back to see us again. All this was done without noise, and with marks of a great respect entertained for us. " Having arrived at the great sachem's town, we espied him at his cabin door between two old men ; all three standing naked, with their calumet turned to the sun. He harangued us in a few words, to con- gratulate us on our arrival, and then presented us his calumet and made us smoke ; at the same time we entered his cabin, where we received all their usual greetings. Seeing all assembled and in silence, I spoke to them by four presents wdiich I made. By the first, I said that we marched in peace to visit the nations on the river to the sea ; by the second, I declared to them that God, their creator, had pity on them, since, after their having been so long ignorant of him, he wished to become known to all nations ; that I was sent on his behalf with this design ; that it w^as for them to acknowledge and obey him ; b}' the third, that the great chief of the French informed them that he spread peace everywhere, and had overcome the Iroquois ; lastly, by the fourth, we begged them to give us all the information they had of the sea, and of nations through which we should have to pass to reach it. " When I had finished my speech, the sachem rose, and laying his hand on the head of a little slave whom he was about to give us, spoke thus : ' I thank thee. Black-gown, and thee, Frenclnnan,' addressing M. Jollyet, 'for taking so much ])ains to come and visit us. Never has the earth been so beautiful, nor the sun so bright, as to-day ; never has our river been so calm, nor so free from rocks, which your canoes have removed as they passed ; never has our tobacco had so fine a flavor. 48 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. nor onr corn appeared so beautiful as we behold it to-day. Here is my son that I give thee that thou mayest know my heart. I pray thee take pity on me and all my nation. Thou knowest the Great Spirit who has made us all ; thou speakest to him and hearest his word ; ask him to give me life and health, and come and dwell with us that we may know him.' Saying this, he placed the little slave near us and made us a second present, an all mysterious calumet, which they value more than a slave. By this present he showed ns his esteem for our governor, after the account we had given of him. By the tliird he begged us, on behalf of his whole nation, not to proceed farther on account of the great dangers to which we exposed ourselves. " I replied that I did not fear death, and that I esteemed no happi- ness greater than that of losing my life for the glory of him who made us all. But this these poor people could not understand. The coun- cil was followed by a great feast which consisted of four courses, which we had to take with all their ways. Tlie fii-st course was a great wooden dish full of sagamity, — that is to say, of Indian meal boiled in water and seasoned with grease. The master of ceremonies, with a spoonful of sagamity, presented it three or four times to my mouth, as we would do with a little child ; he did the same to M. Jollyet. For the second course, he brought in a second dish containing three fish ; he took some pains to remove the bones, and having bjown upon it to cool it, put it in my mouth as we would food to a bird. For the third course they produced a large dog which they had just killed, but, learning that we did not eat it, withdrew it. Finally, the fourth course was a piece of wild ox, the fattest portions of which were put into our mouths. " "We took leave of our Illinois about the end of June, and em- barked in sight of all the tribe, who admire our little canoes, having never seen the like. "As we were discoursing, while sailing gently down a beautiful, still, clear water, we heard the noise of a rapid into which we were about to fall. I have seen nothing more frightful ; a mass of large trees, entire, with branches, — real floating islands, — came rushing from the mouth of the river Pekitanoiii, so impetuously that we could not, without great danger, expose ourselves to pass across. The agitation was so great that the water was all muddy and could not get clear.* * Pekitanoiii, with the aboriginals, signified " muddy water," on the authority of Father I\Iarest, in his letter referred to in a previous note. The present naine. Mis- souri, according to Le Page du Pratz, vol. 2. p. 157, was derived from the trilje, Mis- souris, whose village was some forty leagues above its mouth, and who massacred a French garrison situated in that part of the country. The late statesman and orator, Thomas A. Benton, referring to the niuddiness prevailing at all seasons of the year in the Missouri River, said that its waters were "too thick to swim in and too thin to walk on." PLOr AGAINST MARQUETTE'S LIFE. 49 "After having made about twenty leagues due south, and a little less to the southeast, we came to a river called Ouabouskigou, the mouth of which is at 36° north.* This river comes from the country on the east inhabited by the Chaouanons, in such numbers that they reckon as many as twenty-three villages in one district, and fifteen in another, lying quite near each other. They are by no means warlike, and are the people the Iroquois go far to seek in order to wage an unprovoked war upon them ; and as these poor people cannot defend themselves they allow themselves to be taken and carried off' like sheep, and, inno- cent as they are, do not fail to experience the barbarity of the Iroquois, who burn them cruelly.' Having- arrived about half a league from Akansea (Arkansas River), we saw two canoes coming toward us. The commander was standing up holding in his hand a calumet, with which he made signs according to the custom of the country. He approached us, singing quite agreeably, and invited us to smoke, after which he presented us some sagamity and bread made of Indian corn, of which we ate a little. AVe fortunately found among them a man who understood Illinois much better than the man we brought from Mitchigameh. By means of him, I first spoke to the assembly by ordinary presents. They admired what I told them of God and the mysteries of our holy faith, and showed a great desire to keep me with them to instruct them. " We then asked them what they knew of the sea ; they replied that we were only ten days' journey from it (we could have made the distance in five days); that they did not know the nations who inhab- ited it, because their enemies prevented their commerce with those Europeans ; that the Indian^ with fire-arms whom we had met were their enemies, who cut off the passage to the sea, and prevented their making the acquaintance of the Europeans, or having any commerce with them ; that besides we should expose ourselves greatly by passing on, in consequence of the continual war parties that their enemies sent out on the river; since, being armed and used to war, we could not, without evident danger, advance on that river which they constantly occupy. " In the evening the sachems held a secret council on the design of some to kill us for plunder, but the chief broke up all these schemes, and sending for us, danced the calumet in our presence, and then, to remove all fears, presented it to me. "M. Jollyet and I held another council to deliberate on what we should do, whether we should push on, or rest satisfied with the dis- *The Wabash here appears, for the first time, by name. A more extended notice of the various names by which this stream has been known will be given farther on. 4 50 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. covery that we had made. After having attentively considered that we were not far from the Gulf of Mexico, the basin of which is 31° 40' north, and we at 33° 40'; so that we could not be more than two or three days' journey oft"; that the Mississippi undonbtedlj' had its mouth in Florida or the Gulf of Mexico, and not on the east in Vir- ginia, whose sea-coast is at 34° north, which we had passed, without having as yet reached the sea, nor on the western side in California, because that would require a west, or west-southwest course, and we had always been going south. We considered, moreover, that we risked losing the fruit of this voyage, of which we could give no information, if we should throw ourselves into the hands of the Span- iards, who would undoubtedly at least hold us as prisoners. Besides it was clear tliat we were not in a condition to resist Indians allied to Europeans, numerous and expert in the use of ftre-arms, who contin- ually infested the lower part of the river. Lastly, we had gathered all the information that could be desired from the expedition. All these reasons induced us to return. This we announced to the Indians, and after a day's rest prepared for it. "After a month's navigation down the Mississippi, from the 42d to below the 34th degree, and after having published the gospel as well as I could to the nations I had met, we left the village of Akansea on the 17th of July, to retrace our steps. We accordingly ascended the Mississippi, which gave us great trouble to stem its currents. We left it, indeed, about the 38th degree, to enter another river (the Illinois), which greatly shortened our way, and brought us, with little trouble, to the lake of the Illinois. " We had seen nothing like this river for tlie fertility of the land, its prairies, woods, wild cattle, stag, deer, M'ild-cats, bustards, swans, ducks, parrots, and even beaver ; its many little lakes and rivers. That on which we sailed is broad deep and gentle for sixty-five leagues. During the spring and part of the summer, the only portage is half a league. " We found there an Illinois town called Kaskaskia, composed of seventy-four cabins ; they received us well, and compelled me to promise them to return and instruct them. One of the chiefs of this tribe, with his young men, escorted us to the Illinois Lake, whence at last we returned in the close of September to the Bay of the Fetid (Green Bay), whence we had set out in the beginning of June. Had all this voyage caused but the salvation of a single soul, I should deem all my fatigue well repaid, and this I have reason to think, for, when I was returning, I passed by the Indians of Peoria. I was three days announcing the faith in their cabins, after which, as we were embarking, they brought BIOGKAPHY OF JOLIET. 51 me, oil the water's edge, a dying child, which I baptized a little before it expired, by an admirable providence for the salvation of that inno- cent soul." Count Frontenac, writing from Quebec to M. Colbert, Minister of the Marine, at Paris, under date of November 14, 1674, announces that "Sieur Joliet, whom Monsieur Talon advised me, on my arrival from France, to dispatch for the discovery of the South Sea, has returned three months ago. He has discovered some very fine countries, and a navi- gation so easy through beautiful rivers he has found, that a person can go from Lake Ontario in a bark to the Gulf of Mexico, there being only one carrying place (around Niagara Falls), where Lake Ontario communicates with Lake Erie. I send you, by my secretary, the map which Sieur Joliet has made of the great river he has discovered, and the observations he has been able to recollect, as he lost all his minutes and journals in the shipwreck he suffered within sight of Montreal, where, after having completed a voyage of twelve hundred leagues, he was near being drowned, and lost all his papers and a little Indian whom he brought from those countries. These accidents have caused me great regret."* Louis Joliet, or Jolliet, or Jollyet, as the name is variously spelled, was the son of Jean Joliet, a wheelwright, and Mary d'Abancour; he was born at Quebec in the year 1645. Having finished his studies at the Jesuit college he determined to become a member of that order, and with that purpose in view took some of the minor orders of the society in August, 1662. He completed his studies in 1666, but during this time his attention had become interested in Indian affairs, and he laid aside all thoughts of assuming the " black gown." That he acquired great ability and tact in managing the savages, is apparent from the fact of his having been selected to discover the south sea by the way of the Mississippi. The map which he drew from memory, and which was forwarded by Count Frontenac to France, was afterward attached to Marquette's Journal, and was published by Therenot, at Paris, in 1681. Sparks, in his " Life of Marquette," copies this map, and ascribes it to his hero. This must be a mistake, since it differs quite essentially from Marquette's map, which has recently been brought to public notice by Dr. Shea. Joliet's account of the voyage, mentioned by Frontenac, is published in Hennepin's " Discovery of a Vast Country in America." It is very meagre, and does not present any facts not covered by Marquette's nar- rative. In 1680 Joliet was appointed hydrographer to the king, and many * Paris Documents, vol. 9, p. 121. 52 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST, well-drawn maps at Quebec show that his office was no sinecure. After- ward, he made a voyage to Hudson's Bay in the interest of the king; and as a reward for the faitiiful performance of his duty, he was granted the island of Anticosti, which, on account of the fisheries and Indian trade, was at that time very valuable. After this, he signed himself Joliet d'Anticosty. In the year 1697, he obtained the seignory of Joliet on the river Etchemins, south of Quebec. M. Joliet died in 1701, leaving a wife and four children, the descendants of whom are living in Canada still possessed of the seignory of Joliet, among whom are Archbishop Taschereau of Quebec and Archbishop Tache of Eed River. Mount Joliet, on the Desplaines River, above its confluence with the Kankakee, and the city of Joliet, in the county of Will, perpetuate the name of Joliet in the state of Illinois. Jacques Marquette was born in Laon, France, in 1637. His was the oldest and one of the most respectable citizen families of the place. At the age of seventeen he entered the Society of Jesus; received or- ders in 1666 to embark for Canada, arriving at Quebec in September of the same year. For two years he remained at Three Rivers, study- inof tlie difl^erent Indian dialects under Father Gabriel Druillentes. At the end of that period he received ordei-s to repair to the upper lakes, which he did, and established the Mission of Sault Ste. Marie. The following year Dablon arrived, having been appointed Superior of the Ottawa missions ; Marquette then went to the " Mission of the Holy Ghost " at the western extremity of Lake Superior ; here he remained for two years, and it was his accounts, forwarded from this place, that caused Frontenac and Talon to send Joliet on his voyage to the Mis- sissippi. The Sioux having dispersed the Algonquin tribes at Lapointe, the latter retreated eastward to Mackinaw ; Marquette followed and founded there the Mission of St. Ignatius. Here he remained until Joliet came, in 1673, with orders to accompany him on his voyage of discovery down the Mississippi. Upon his return, Marquette reuiained at Mackinaw until October, 1674, when he received orders to carry out his pet project of founding the " Mission of the Immaculate Concep- tion of the Blessed Virgin " among the Illinois. He immediately set out, but owing to a severe dysentery, contracted the year previous, he made but slow progress. However, he reached Chicago Creek, De- cember 4, where, growing rapidly worse, he was conipelled to winter. On the 29th of the following March he set out for the Illinois town, on the river of that name. He succeeded in getting there on the 8th of April. Being cordially received by the Indians, he was enabled to realize his long deferred and much cherished project of establishing DEATH OF MARQUETTE. 53 the " Mission of the Immaculate Conception." Believing that his life was drawing to a close, he endeavored to reach Mackinaw before his death should take place. But in this hope he was doomed to disap- pointment ; by the time he reached Lake Michigan " he was so weak that he had to be carried like a child." One Saturda}^, Marquette and liis two companions entered a small stream — which still bears his name — on the eastern side of Lake Michigan, and in this desolate spot, virtually alone, destitute of all the comforts of life, died James Marquette. His life-long wish to die a martyr in the holy cause of Jesus and the Blessed Virgin, was granted. Thus passed away one of the purest and most sacrificing servants of God, — one of the bravest and most heroic of men. The biographical sketch of Joliet has been collated from a number of reliable authorities, and is believed truthful. Our notice of Father Marcpiette is condensed from his life as written by Dr. Shea, than whom there is no one better qualified to perform the task. CHAPTER VIII. EXPLORATIONS BY LA SALLE. The success of the French, in their plan of colonization, was so great, and the trade with the savages, exchanging fineries, guns, knives, and, more than all, spirituous liquors for valuable furs, yielded such enormous profits, that impetus was given to still greater enterprises. They involved no less than the hemming in of the British colonies along the Atlantic coast and a conquest of the rich mines in Mexico, from the Spanish. These purposes are boldly avowed in a letter of M. Talon, the king's enterprising intendant at Quebec, in 1671 ; and also in the declarations of the great Colbert, at Paris, " I am,'' says M. Talon, in his letter to the king referred to, "no courtier, and assert, not through a mere desire to please the king, nor without just reason, that this portion of the French monarchy will become something grand. What I discover around ma makes me foresee this ; and those colonies of foreign nations so long settled on the seaboard already tremble with fright, in view of what his majesty has accomj^lished here in the interior. The measures adopted to confine them within narrow limits, by taking possession, which I have caused to be effected, do not allow them to spread, without subjecting themselves, at the same time, to be treated as usurpers, and have war waged against them. This in truth is what by all their acts the}' seem to greatly fear. They already know that your name is spread abroad among the savages throughout all those countries, and that they regard your majesty alone as the arbitrator of peace and war ; they detach themselves insensibly from other Europeans, and excepting the Iroquois, of whom I am not as 3'et assured, we can safely promise that the others will take up arms whenever we please." " Tlie principal result," says La Salle, i-n his memoir at a later day, '* expected from the great perils and labors which I underwent in the discovery of the Mississippi was to satisfy the wish expressed to me by the late Monsieur Colbert, of finding a port where the P'rench might establish themselves and harass the Spaniards in those regions from whence they derive all their wealth. The place I propose to fortify lies sixty leagues above the mouth of the river Col- bert (^. e. Mississippi) in the Gulf of Mexico, and possesses all the advantages for such a purpose which can be wished for, both on account 54 EARLY LIFE OF LA SALLE. 55 of its excellent position and the favorable disposition of the savages who live in that part of the country."* It is not our province to indulf/e in conjectures as to how lar these daring purposes of Talon and Col- bert would have succeeded had not the latter died, and their active assistant, Robert La Salle, have lost his life, at the hands of an assassin, when in the act of executing the preliminary part of the enterprise. We turn, rather, to matters of historical record, and proceed with a condensed sketch of the life and voyages of La Salle, as it was his dis- coveries that led to the colonization of the Mississippi Valley by the French. La Salle was born, of a distinguished family, at Rouen, France. He was consecrated to the service of God in early life, and entered the Society of Jesus, in which he remained ten years, laying the foundation of moral principles, regular habits and elements of science that served him so well in his future arduous undertakings. Like many other young men having plans of useful life, he thought Canada would offer better facilities to develop them than the cramped and fixed society of France. He accordingly left his home, and reached Montreal in 1666. Being of a resolute and venturesome disposition, he found employment in making explorations of the country about the lakes. He soon became a favorite of Talon, the intendant, and of Frontenac, the governor, at Quebec. He was selected by the latter to take com- mand of Fort Frontenac, near the present city of Kingston, on the St. Lawrence River, and at that time a dilapidated, wooden structure on the frontier of Canada. He remained in Canada about nine years, acquiring a knowledge of the country and particularly of the Indian tribes, their manners, habits and customs, and winning the confidence of the French authorities. He returned to France and presented a memoir to the king, in which he urged the necessity of maintaining Fort Frontenac, which he offered to restore with a structure of stone ; to keep there a garrison equal to the one at Montreal ; to em- ploy as many as fifteen laborers during the first year; to clear and till the land, and to supply the surrounding Indian villages with Recollect missionaries in furtherance of the cause of religion, all at his own ex- j^ense, on condition that the king would grant him the right of seigniory and a monopoly of the trade incident to it. He further petitioned for title of nobility in consideration of voyages he had already made in Canada at his own expense, and which had resulted in the great bene- fit to the king's colony. The king heard the petition graciously, and * Talon's letter to the kin^: Paris Documents, vol. 9, p. 73. La Salle's Memoir to the kinor, on the necessity of fitting out an expedition to take possession of Louisiana: Historical Collections of Louisiana, part 1, p. 5. 56 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. on the 13th May, 1675, granted La Salle and his heirs Fort Frontenac, with four leagues of the adjacent country along the lakes and rivers above and helow the fort and a half a league inward, and the adjacent islands, with the right of hunting and fishing on Lake Ontario and the circumjacent rivers. On the same day, the king issued to La Salle letters patent of nobility, having, as the king declares, been informed of the worthy deeds performed by the people, either in reducing or civilizing the savages or in defending themselves against their frequent insults, especially those of the Iroquois ; in despising the greatest dan- gers in order to extend the king's name and empire to the extremit}- of that new world ; and desiring to reward those who have thus ren- dered themselves most eminent; and wishing to treat most favorably Robert Cavalier Sieur de La Salle on account of the o^ood and laudable report that has been rendered concerning his actions in Canada, the king does ennoble and decorate with the title of nobility the said cav- alier, together with his wife and children. He left France with these precious documents, and repaired to Fort Frontenac, where he per- formed the conditions imposed by the terms of his titles. He sailed for France again in 1677, and in the following year after he and Colbert had fully matured their plans, he again petitioned the king for a license to prosecute further discoveries. The king granted his request, giving him a permit, under date of May 12, 1678, to en- deavor to discover the western part of New France ; the king avowing in the letters patent that " he had nothing more at heart than the dis- covery of that country where there is a prospect of iinding a way to penetrate as far as Mexico," and authorizing La Salle to prosecute dis- coveries, and construct forts in such places as he might think necessary, and enjoy there the same monopoly as at Fort Frontenac, — all on con- dition that the enterprise should be prosecuted at La Salle's expense, and completed within five years; that he should not trade with the savages, who carried their peltries and beavers to Montreal ; and that the governor, intendant, justices, and other officers of the king in New France, should aid La Salle in his enterprise.* Before leaving France, La Salle, through the Prince de Conti, was introduced to one Henri de Tonti, an Italian by birth, who for eight years had been in the French service. Having had one of his hands shot off while in Sicily, he repaired to France to seek other employment. It was a most for- tunate meeting. Tonti — a name that should be prominently associ- ated with discoveries in this part of America — became La Salle's companion. Ever faithful and courageous, he ably and zealously fur- * Vide the petitions of La Salle to, anil the grants from, the king, which are found at length in the Paris Documents, vol. 9, pp. 122 to 127. LOUIS HENNEPIN. 57 thered all of La Salle's plans, followed and defended him under the most discouraging trials, with an unselfish fidelity that has feM- paral- lels in any age. Supplied with this new grant of enlarged powers, La Salle, in com- pany with Tonti, — or Tonty, as Dr. Sparks says he has seen the name written in an autograph letter, — and thirty men, comprising pilots, sailors, carpenters and other mechanics, with a supply of material necessary for the intended exploration, left France for Quebec. Here the party were joined by some Canadians, and the whole force was sent forward to Fort Frontenac, at the outlet of Lake Ontario, since this fort had been granted to La Salle. He had, in conformity to the terms of his letters patent, greatly enlarged and strengthened its de- fenses. Here he met Louis Hennepin, a Franciscan Friar, whom it seems had been sent thither along M'ith Father Gabriel de la Ribourde and Zenobius Membre, all of the same religions order, to accompany La Salle's expedition. Li the meantime, Hennepin was occupied in pastoral labors among the soldiers of the garrison, and the inhabitants of a little hamlet of peasants near by, and proselyting the Lidians of the neighboring country. Hennepin, from his own account, had not only traveled over several parts of Europe before coming to Canada, but since his arrival in America, had spent much time in roaming about among the savages, to gi-atify his love of adventure and acquire knowledge. Hennepin's name and writings are so prominently connected with the early history of the Mississippi Yalley, and, withal, his contradic- tory statements, made at a later day of his life, as to the extent of his own travels, have so clouded his reputation with grave doubt as to his regard for truth, that we will turn aside and give the reader a sketch of this most singular man and his claims as a discoverer. He was bold, courageous, patient and hopeful under the most trying fatigues ; and had a taste for the privations and dangers of a life among the savages, whose ways and caprices he well understood, and knew how to turn them to insure his own safety. He was a shrewd observer and possessed a faculty for that detail and little minutio?, which make a narrative racy and valuable. He M-as vain and much given to self- glorification. He accompanied La Salle, in the first voyage, as far as Peoria Lake, and he and Father Zenobe Membre are the historians of that expedition. From Peoria Lake he went down the Illinois, under orders from La Salle, and up the Mississippi beyond St. Anthony's Falls, giving this name to the falls. This interesting voyage was not prosecuted voluntarily ; for Llennepin and his two companions were captured by the Sioux and taken up the river as prisoners, often in 58 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. great peril of their lives. He saw La Salle no more, after parting with him at Peoria Lake. He was released from caj^tivity through the intervention of IMons. Duhith, a French Courenr de I>ois, who had previously estal)lished a trade with the Sioux, on the upper Mississippi, by way of Lake Sujierior. After liis escape, Hennepin descended the Mississippi to the mouth of the Wisconsin, which he ascended, made the portage at the head of Fox River, thence to Green Bay and Mack- inaw, hy the route pursued by Joliet and Marquette on their way to the Mississippi, seven years before. From Mackinaw he proceeded to France, where, in 1683, he puldished, under royal authority, an account of his travels. For refusing to obe}^ an order of his superiors, to return to America, he was banished from Fi-ance. He went to Holland and obtained the favor and patronage of William III, king of England, to whose service, as he himself says, " he entirely devoted himself."' Li Llolland, he received money and sustenance from Mi-. Blathwait, King William's secretary of war, while engaged in preparing a new volume of his voyages, which was published at Utrecht, in 1697, and dedicated "To His Most Excellent Majesty William the Third." The revised edition contains substantially all of the first, and a great deal l)esides; for in this last work Hennepin lays claim, for the first time, to having gone doion the Mississippi to its mouth, thus seeking to deprive La Salle of the glorj^ attaching to his name, on account of this very dis- covery. La Salle had now been dead about fourteen years, and from the time he went down the Mississippi, in 1682, to the hour of his death, although his discovery was well known, especially to Hennepin, the latter never laid any claim to having anticipated him in the discov- ery. Besides, Hennepin's own account, after so long a silence, of his pretended voyage down the river is so utterly inconsistent with itself, especially with respect to'dates and the impossibility of his traveling the distances M-ithin the time he alleges, that the story carries its own refutation. For this mendacious act. Father Hennepin has merited the severest censures of Charlevoix, Jared Sparks, Francis Parkman, Dr. Shea and other historical critics. His first work is generally regarded as authority. That he did go up the Mississippi river there seems to be no controversy, while grave doubts prevail as to many statements in his last publication, which would otherwise pass without suspicion were they not found in com- pany with statements known to be untrue. Li the preface to his last work, issued in 1607, P^ather Hennepin assigns as a reason why he did not publish his descent of the Missis- sippi in his volume issued in 1683, "that I was obliged to say nothing of the course of the Mississippi, from the mouth (»f the Illinois down HENNEPIN AND LA SALLE. 59 to the sea, for fear of disobliging M. La Salle, with whom I began my discovery. This gentleman, alone, would have the glory of having dis- covered the course of that river. But when he heard that I had done it two years before him he could never forgive me, though, as I have said, I was so modest as to publish nothing of it. This was the true cause of his malice against me, and of the barbarous usage I met with in France." Still, his description of places he did visit; the aboriginal names and geographical features of localities ; his observations, especially upon the manners and customs of the Indians, and other facts which he had no motive to misrepresent, are generally regarded as true in his last as well as in his first publication. His works, indeed, are the only repos- itories of many interesting particulars relating to the northwest, and authors quote from him, some indiscriminately and others with more caution, while all criticise him without measure, Hennepin was born in Belgium in 1640, as is supposed, and died at Utrecht, Holland, within a few years after issuing his last book. This was republished in London in 1698, the translation into English being wretchedly executed. The book, aside from its historical value and the notoriety attaching to it because of the new claims Hennepin makes, is quite a curiosity. It is made up of Hennepin's own travels, blended with his fictitious discoveries, scraps and odd ends taken from the writings of other travelers without giving credit ; the whole embellished with plates and a map inserted by the bookseller, and the text empha- sized with italics and displayed type; all designed to render it a speci- men, as it probably was in its day, of the highest skill attained in the art of book-making. La Salle brought up the St. Lawrence to Fort Frontenac the anchors, cordage and other material to be used in the vessel which he designed to construct above the Falls of Niagara for navigating the western lakes. He already had three small vessels on Lake Ontario, which he had made use of in a coasting trade with the Indians. One of these, a brigantine of ten tons, was loaded with his effects; his men, including Fathers Gabriel, Zenobius Membre and Hennepin, who were, as Father Zenobia declares, commissioned with care of the spiritual direction of the expedition, were placed aboard, and on the 18th of November the vessel sailed westward for the Niagara River. They kept the northern shore, and run into land and bartered for corn with the Iroquois at one of their villages, situated where Toronto, Canada, is located, and for fear of being frozen up in the river, which here empties into the lake, had to cut the ice from about their ship. Detained by adverse winds, they remained here until the wind was favorable, 60 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. ' when they sailed across the end of the lake and found an ?lnchorage in the month of Niagara River on the 6th of Deceniher. The season M-as far advanced, and the ground covered with snow a foot deep. Large masses of ice were floating down the river endangering the vessel, and it was necessary to take measures to give it security. Accordingly the vessel was hauled with cables u]) against the strong current. One of the cables broke, and the vessel itself caine very near being broken to pieces or carried away by the ice, which was grinding its way to the open lake. Finally, by sheer force of human strength, the vessel was dragged to the shore, and moored with a strong hawser under a protect- ing clift'out of danger from the floating ice. A cabin, protected with palisades, for shelter and to serve as a magazine to store the supplies, was also constructed. The ground was frozen so hard that it had to be thawed out with boiling water before the men could drive stakes into it. The movements of La Salle excited, flrst the curiosity of the Iro- quois Indians, in whose countrj' he was an intruder, and then their jeal- ousy became aroused as they began to fear he intended the erection of a fort. The Sieur de La Salle, says the frank and modest-minded Father Zenobe Membre, " with his usual address met the principal Iroc[Uois chiefs in conference, and gained them so completely that they not only afirreed, but oflfered, to contribute with all their means to the execu- tion of his designs. The conference lasted for some time. La Salle also sent many canoes to trade north and south of the lake among these tribes." Meanwhile La Salle's enemies were busy in thwarting his plans. They insinuated themselves among the Indians in the vicinity of Niagara, and filled their ears with all sorts of stories to La Salle's discredit, and aroused feelings of such distrust that work on the fort, or depot for supplies, had to be suspended, and La Salle content himself with a house surrounded by palisades. A place was selected above the falls,* on the eastern side of the river, for the construction of the new vessel. The ground was cleared away, trees Avere felled, and the carpen- ters set to work. The keel of the vessel was laid on the 20th of Jan- uarv, and some of the plank being ready to fasten on. La Salle drove the first spike. As the work progressed. La Salle made several trips, over ice and snow, and later in the spriiig with vessels, to Fort Frontenac, to hurry forward provisions and material. One of his vessels was lost on Lake Ontario, heavily laden with a cargo of valuable supplies, through the fault or willful perversity of her pilots. The disappointment over this calamity, says Hennepin, would have dissuaded any other person than ♦Francis Parkman, in his valuable work, "The Discovery of the Great West," p. 133, locates the spot at the mouth of Cayuga Creek on the American shore. THE FIRST SAIL ON LAKE ERIE. 61 La Salle from the further prosecution of the enterprise. The men worked industriously on the ship. The most of the Iroquois having gone to war with a nation on the northern side of Lake Erie, the few remaining behind were become less insolent than before. Still they lingered about where the work was going on, and continued expres- sions of discontent at what the French were doing. One of them let on to be drunk and attempted to kill the blacksmith, but the latter repulsed the Lidian with a piece of iron red-hot from the forge. The Indians threatened to burn the vessel on the stocks, and might have done so were it not constantly guarded. Much of the time the only food of the men was Indian corn and tish ; the distance to Fort Fron- tenac and the inclemency of the winter rendering it out of power to procure a supply of other or better provisions. The frequent alarms from the Indians, a want of wholesome food, the loss of the vessel with its promised supplies, and a refusal of the neighboring tribes to sell any more of their corn, reduced the party to such extremities that the ship-carpenters tried to run away. They were, however, persuaded to remain and prosecute their work. Two Mohegan Indians, successful hunters in La Salle's service, were fortu- nate enough to bring in some wild goats and other game they had killed, which e^reatlv encourao;ed the workmen to go on with their task more briskly than before. The vessel was completed within six months from the time its keel was laid. The ship was gotten afloat before en- tirely finished, to prevent the designs of the natives to burn it. She was sixty tons burthen, and called the " Griflin," a name given it by La Salle by way of a compliment to Count Frontenac, whose armorial bearings were supported by two griffins. Three guns were lired, and "7e Deums''^ chanted at the christening, and prayers offered up for a prosperous voyage. The air in the wild forest rung with shouts of joy ; even the Iroquois, looking suspiciously on, were seduced with alluring draughts of brandy to lend their deep-mouthed voices to the happy occasion. The men left their cabins of bark and swung their hammocks under the deck of the ship, where they could rest with greater security from the savages than on the shore. The Griffin, under press of a favorable breeze, and with the help of twelve men on the shore pulling at tow-ropes, was forced up against the strong current of the Niagara River to calmer waters at the en- trance of the lake. On the 7th of August, 1679, her canvas was spread, and the pilot steering by the compass, the vessel, with La Salle and his thirty odd companions and their effects aboard, sailed out westward upon the unknown, silent waters of Lake Erie. In three daj'S they reached the mouth of Detroit Kiver. Father Hennepin was fairly 62 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. delighted with the country along this river — it was " so well situated and the soil so fertile. Vast meadows extending back from the strait and terminating at the uplands, which were clad with vineyards, and ])lum and pear and other fruit-bearing trees of nature's own planting, all so well arranged that one would think they could not have been so dis- posed without the help of art. The country was also well stocked with deer, bear, wild goats, turkeys, and other animals and birds, that supplied a most relishing food. The forest comprised walnut and other timber in abundance suitable for building purposes. So charmed was he with the prospect that he " endeavored to persuade La Salle to settle at the ' De Troit,' " it being in the midst of so man}' savage na- tions among whom a good trade could be estabMshed. La Salle would not listen to this proposal. He said he would make no settlement within one hundred leagues of Frontenac, lest other Europeans would be before them in the new country they were going to discover. This, says Hennepin, was the pretense of La Salle and the adventurers who were with him ; for I soon discovered that their intention was to buy all the furs and skins of the remotest savages M'ho, as they thought, did not know their value, and thus enrich themselves in one single voyage. On Lake Huron the Griffin encountered a storm. The main-yards and topmast were blown away, giving the ship over to the mercy of the winds. There was no harbor to run into for shelter. La Salle, although a courageous man, gave way to his fears, and said they all were undone. Everyone thereupon fell upon their knees to say pray- ers and prepare for death, except the pilot, \vlio cursed and swore all the while at La Salle for bringing him there to perish in a nasty lake, after he had acquired so much renown in a long and successful naviga- tion on the ocean. The storm abated, and on the 27th of August, the Griffin resumed her course northwest, and was carried on the evening of the same day beyond the island of Mackinaw to point St. Ignace, and safely anchored in a bay that is sheltered, except from the south, by the projecting mainland. CHAPTER IX. LA SALLE'S VOYAGE CONTINUED. St. Ignace, or Mackiiuiw, as previously stated, had become a princi- pal center of the Jesuit missions, and it had also grown into a head- quarters for an extensive Indian trade. Duly licensed traders, as well as the Coureurs de Bois, — men who had run wild, as it were, and by their intercourse with the nations had thrown off all restraints of civilized life, — resorted to this vicinity in considerable numbers. These, lost to all sense of national pride, instead of sustaining took every measure to thwart La Salle's plans. They, with some of the dissatis- fied crew, represented to the Indians that La Salle and his associates were a set of dangerous and ambitious adventurers, who meant to engross all the trade in furs and skins and invade their liberties. These jealous and meddlesome busy bodies had alread}', before the arrival of the Griffin, succeeded in seducing fifteen men from La Salle's service, whom with others, he had sent forward the previous spring, under command of Tonty, with a stock of merchandise ; and, instead of going to the tribes beyond and preparing the Avay for a friendly recep- tion of La Salle, as they were ordered to do, they loitered about Mackinaw the whole summer and squandered the goods, in spite of Tonty's persistent efforts to urge them forward in the performance of their duty. La Salle sent out other parties to trade with the natives, and these went so far, and were so busy in bartering for and collect- ing furs, that they did not return to Mackinaw until November. It was now getting late and La Salle was warned of the dangerous storms that sweep the lakes at the beginning of winter ; he resolved, therefore, to continue his voyage without waiting the return of his men. He weighed anchor and sailed westward into Lake Michigan as far as the islands at the entrance of Green Bay, then called the Pottawatomie Islands, for the reason that they were then occupied by bands of that tribe. On one of these islands La Salle found some of the men belonging to his advance party of traders, and who, having secured a large quantity of valuable furs, had long and impatiently waited his coming. La Salle, as is already apparent, determined to engage in a fur trade that already and legitimately belonged to merchants operating at 63 64 HISTORIC NOTES OX THE NORTHWEST. Montreal, and with wliich tlie terms of his own license prohibited his interfering. Without asking- anv one's advice lie resolved to load his ship with furs and send it back to Niagara, and the furs to Quebec, and out of the proceeds of the sale to discharge some very pressing debts. The pilot with tive men to man the vessel were ordered to proceed with the Griffin to Niagara, and return with all imaginable speed and join La Salle at the mouth of the St. Joseph River, near the southern shore of Lake Michigan. The Griffin did not go to Green Ba_Y City, as many writers have assumed in hasty perusals of the original authorities, or even penetrate the body of water known as Green Bay beyond the chain of islands at its mouth. The resolution of La Salle, taken, it seems, on the spur of the moment, to send his ship back down the lakes, and prosecute his voyage the I'est of the way to the head of Lake Michigan in frail birchen canoes, was a most unfortunate measure. It delayed his discoveries two years, brought severe hardships upon himself and greatly embarrassed all his future plans. The Griffin itself was lost, with all her cargo, valued at sixty thousand livres. She, nor her crew, was ever heard of after leaving the Pottawatomie Lslands. What became of the ship and men in charge remains to this day a mystery, or veiled in a cloud of conjecture. La Salle himself, says Francis Parkman, "grew into a settled conviction that the Griffin had been treacherously sunk by the pilot and sailors to whom he had intrusted her; and he thought he had, in after-years, found evidence that the authors of the crime, laden with the merchandise they had taken from her, had reached the Mississippi and ascended it, hoping to join Du Shut, the famous chief of the Conreurs de Bois, and enrich them- selves by traffic with the northern tribes.* The following is, substantially, Hennepin's account of La Salle's canoe voyage from the mouth of Green Bay south, along the shore of Lake Michigan, past Milwaukee and Chicago, and around the southern end of the lake ; thence north along the eastern shore to the mouth ot the St. Joseph River ; thence up the St. Joseph to South Bend, mak- ing the portage here to the head-waters of the Kankakee ; thence down the Kankakee and Illinois through Peoria Lake, with an account of the buildmg of Fort Crevecceur. Hennepin's narrative is full of in- teresting detail, and contains many interesting observations upon the condition of the country, the native inhabitants as they appeared nearly two hundred 3'ears ago. The privation and suffering to which La Salle and his party were exposed in navigating Lake Michigan at that early day, and late in the fall of the year, when the waters were vexed with * Discovery of the Great West, p. 169. FIRST VOYAGE ON LAKE MICHIGAN, 65 tempestuous storms, illustrate the courage and daring of the under- taking. Their suft'ering did not terminate with their voyage uj)on the lake. Difficulties of another kind were experienced on the St. Joseph, Kan- kakee anil Illinois Rivers. Hennepin's is, perhaps, the first detailed account we have of this part of the "Great West,'' and is therefore of ffi'eat interest and value on this account. "We left the Pottawatomies to continue our voyage, being fourteen men in all, in four canoes. I had charge of the smallest, which carried five hundredweight and two men. My companions being recently from Europe, and for that reason being unskilled in the management of these kind of boats, its whole charge fell upon me in stormy weather. " The canoes were laden with a smith's forge, utensils, tools for car- penters, joiners and sawyers, besides our goods and arms. We steered to the south tow^ard the mainland, from which the Pottawatomie Islands are distant some forty leagues ; but about midway, and in the night time, w-e were greatly endangered by a sudden storm. The waves dashed into our canoes, and the night was so dark we had great difficulty in keeping our canoes together. The daylight coming on, we reached the shore, where we remained for four days, waiting for the lake to grow calm. In the meantime our Indian hunter went in quest of game, but killed nothing other than a porcupine ; this, however, made our Indian corn more relishing. The weather beeoming fair, we resumed our voyage, rowing all day and well into the night, along the western coast of the Lake of the Illinois. The wind again grew to fresh, and we landed upon a rocky beach where we had nothing to protect ourselves against a storm of snow and rain except the clothing on our persons. We remained here two days for the sea to go down, hav- ing made a little fire from wood cast ashore by the waves. We pro- ceeded on our voyage, and toward evening the winds again forced us to a beach covered with rushes, where we remained three days ; and in the meantime our provisions, consisting only of pumpkins and Indian corn purchased from the Pottawatomies, entirely gave out. Our canoes w^ere so heavily laden that we could not carry provisions with us, and we were compelled to rely on bartering for such supplies on our way. We left this dismal place, and after twelve leagues rowing came to another Pottawatomie village, whose inhabitants stood upon the beach to receive us. But M. La Salle refused to let anyone land, notwithstanding the severity of the weather, fearing some of his men might run away. We were in such great peril that La Salle flung himself into the water, after we had gone some three leagues farther, 5 G6 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. and with tlie aid of his three men carried the canoe of wliicli he had charge to the shore, u})on their shoulders, otherwise it would have l)een broken to pieces by the waves. We were obliged to do the same with the other canoes. I, myself, carried good Father Gabriel upon my back, his age being so well advanced as not to admit of his ventur- ing in the water. "We took ourselves to a piece of rising ground to avoid surprise, as we had no manner of acquaintance with the great number of savages whose village was near at hand. "We sent three men into the village to buy provisions, under protection of the calu- met or pipe of peace, which the Indians at Pottawatomie Islands had presented us as a means of introduction to, and a measure of safety against, other tribes that we might meet on our way." The calumet has always been a symbol of amity among all the In- dian tribes of North America, and so uniformly used by them in all their negotiations with their own race, and Eui'opeans as well ; and Father Hennepin's description of it, and the respect that is accorded to its presence, are so truthful that we here insert his account of it at length : " This calumet," says Father Hennepin, " is the most mysterious thing among the savages, for it is used in all important transactions. It is nothing else, however, than a large tobacco pipe, made of red, black, or white stone. The head is highly polished, and the quill or stem is usually about two feet in length, made of a pretty strong reed or cane, decorated with highly colored feathers interlaced with locks of women's hair. Wings of gaudily plumaged birds are tied to it, mak- ing the calumet look like the wand of Mercury, or staff which ambas- sadors of state formerly carried when they went to conduct treaties of peace. The stem is sheathed in the skin of the neck of birds called '■ Hilars'' (probably the loon), which are as large as our geese, and spotted with white and black ; or else with those of a duck (the little wood duck whose neck presents a beautiful contrast of colors) that make their nests upon trees, although the water is their ordinary ele- ment, and whose feathers are of many different colors. However, eveiy tribe ornament their calumets according to their own fancy, with the feathers of such birds as they may have in their own country. "A pipe, such as 1 have described, is a pass of safe conduct among all the allies of the tribe which has given it ; and in all embassies it is car- ried as a symbol of peace, and is always respected as such, for the sav- ages believe some great misfortune would speedily befall them if they violated the public faith of the calumet. All their enterprises, declara- tions of war, treaties of peace, as M-ell as all of the rest of their cere- monies, are sealed with the calumet. The pipe is filled with the best CANOE VOYAGE ON LAKE MICHIGAN. 67 tobacco they have, and then it is presented to those with wliom they are about to conduct an important atl'air; and after they liave smoked out of it, the one offerinu' it does the same. I would have perished," concludes Hennepin, " had it not been for the calumet. Our three men, carrying the calumet and being well armed, went to the little village about three leagues from the place where we landed ; they found no one at home, for the inhabitants, having heard that we refused to land at the other village, supposed we were enemies, and had aban- doned their habitations. In their absence our men took some of their corn, and left instead, some goods, to let them know we were neither their enemies nor robbers. Twenty of the inhabitants of this village came to our encampment on the beach, armed with axes, small guns, bows, and a sort of club, which, in their language, means a head- breaker. La Salle, with four well-armed men, advanced toward them for the purpose of opening a conversation. He requested them to come near to us, saying he had a party of hunters out who might come across them and take their lives. They came forward and took seats at the foot of an eminence, where we were encamped ; and La Salle amused them with the relation of his voyage, which he informed them he had undertaken for their advantage ; and thus occupied their time until the arrival of the three men who had been sent out with the calumet; on seeing which the savages gave a great shout, arose to their feet and danced about. We excused our men from having taken some of their corn, and informed them that we had left its true value in goods ; they were so well pleased with this that they immediately sent for more corn, and on the next day they made us a gift of as much as we could conveniently find room for in our canoes. '• The next day morning the old men of the tribe came to us with their calumet of peace, and entertained us with a free offering of wild goats, which their own hunters had taken. In return, we presented them our thanks, accompanied with some axes, knives, and several little toys for their wives, with all which they were very much pleased. " We left this place and continued our voyage along the coast of the lake, which, in places, is so steep that we often found it difficult to obtain a landing; and the wind was so violent as to oblige us to carry our canoes sometimes upon top of the bluff, to prevent their being- dashed in pieces. The stormy weather lasted four days, causing us much suffering ; for every time we made the shore we had to wade in the water, carrying our effects and canoes upon our shoulders. The water being very cold, most of us were taken sick. Our provisions again failed us, which, with the fatigues of rowing, made old Father Gabriel faint away in such a manner that we despaired of his life. G8 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. With a use of a decoction of hyacinth I liad with nie, and which I found of great service on onr voyage, lie was restored to his senses. We had no other subsistence but a handful of corn per man every twenty-four hours, which w^e parched or boiled ; and, although reduced to such scanty diet, we rowed our canoes almost daily, from morning to night. Our men found some hawthorns and other wild berries, of which they ate so freely that most of them were taken sick, and we imagined that they were poisoned. " Yet the more we suffered, the more, bj' God's grace, did I become stronger, so that 1 could oiitrow the other canoes. Being in great dis- tress, He, who takes care of his meanest creatures, provided us with an unexpected relief. We saw over the land a great many ravens and eagles circling in mid-air; from whence we conjectured there was prey near by. We landed, and, upon search, found the half of a wild goat which the wolves had strangled. This provision was very ac- cei)table, and the rudest of our men could not but praise a kind Provi- dence, who took such particular care of us. " Having thus refreshed ourselves, we continued our voyage directly to the southern part of the lake, every day the country becoming liner and the climate more temperate. On the 16th of October we fell in with abundance of game. Our Indian hunter killed several deer and wild goats, and our men a great many big fat turkey-cocks, with which we regaled ourselves for several days. On the 18th we came to the farther end of the lake.* Here we landed, and our men were sent out to prospect the locality, and found great quantities of ripe grapes, the fruit of which were as large as damask plums. We cut down the trees to gather the grapes, out of which we made pretty good wine, which we put into gourds, used as flasks, and buried them in the sand to keep the contents from turning sour. Many of the trees here are loaded witli vines, which, if cultivated, would make as good wine as any in Europe. The fruit w'as all the more relishing to us, because we wanted bread." Other travelers besides Hennepin, passing this locality at an early day, also mention the same .fact. It would seem, therefore, that Lake Michigan had the same modifying influence upon, and equalized the temperature of, its eastern shore, rendering it as famous for its wild fruits and grapes, two hundred years ago, as it has since become noted for the abundance and perfection of its cultivated varieties. " Our men discovered prints of men's feet. The men were ordered * From the description given of the country, the time occupied, and forest growth, the voyagers must now be eastward of Michigan City, and where the lake shore trends more rapidly to the north. SAVAGES PLUNDER LA SALLE. 69 to he upon guard and make no noise. In spite of this precaution, one of our men, finding a hear ujjon a tree, shot him dead and dragged him into camp. La Salle was very angry at this indiscretion, and, to avoid surprise, placed sentinels at the canoes, under which our effects had been put for protection against the rain. There was a hunting party of Fox Indians from the vicinity of Green Bay, about one hun- dred and twenty in number, encamped near to us, who, having heard the noise of the gun of the man who shot the bear, became alarmed, and sent out some of their men to discover who we were. These spies, creeping upon their bellies, and observing great silence, came in the night-time and stole the coat of La Salle's footman and some goods secreted under the canoes. The sentinel, hearing a noise, gave the alarm, and we all ran to our arms. On being discovered, and thinking our numbers were greater than we really were, they cried out, in the dark, that they were friends. We answered, friends did not visit at such unseasonable hours, and that their actions were more like those of robbers, who designed to plunder and kill us. Their headsman replied that they heard the noise of our gun, and, as they knew that none of the neighboring tribes possessed firearms, they supposed we were a war party of Iroquois, come with the design of murdering them ; but now that they learned we were Frenchmen from Canada, whom they loved as their own brethren, they would anxiously wait until daylight, so that they could smoke out of our calumet. This is a compliment among the savages, and the highest mark they can give of their affection. " We appeared satisfied with their reasons, and gave leave to four of their old men, only, to come into our camp, telling thera we would not permit a greater number, as their young men were much given to stealing, and that we would not suffer such indignities. Accordingly, four of their old men came among us ; we entertained them until morning, when they departed. After they were gone, we found out about the robbery of the canoes, and La Salle, well knowing the genius of the savages, saw, if he allowed this affront to pass without resenting it, that we would be constantly exposed to a renewal of like indigni- ties. Therefore, it was resolved to exact prompt satisfaction. La Salle, with four of his men, went out and captured two of the Indian hunters. One of the prisoners confessed the robbery, with the cir- cumstances connected with it. The thief M-as detained, and his comrade was released and sent to his band to tell their headsman that the cap- tive in custody would be ])ut to death unless the stolen propertj' were returned. " The savages were greatly perplexed at La Salle's peremptory mes- 70 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. sage. They could not comply, for they had cut up the goods and coat and divided among themselves the pieces and the buttons; they there- fore resolved to rescue their man by force. The next day, October 30, they advanced to attack us. The peninsula we were encamped on was separated from the forest where the savages lay by a little sandy plain, on which and near the wood were two or three eminences. La Salle determined to take possession of the most prominent of these elevations, and detached five of his men to occupy it, following him- self, at a short distance, with all of his force, every one having rolled their coats about the left arm, which was held up as a protection against the arrows of the savages. Only eight of the enemy had iire- arms. The savages were frightened at our advance, and their young men took behind the trees, but their captains stood their ground, while we moved forward and seized the knoll. I left the two other Francis- cans reading the usual prayers, and went about among the men ex- horting them to their duty ; I had been in some battles and sieges in Europe, and was not afraid of these savages, and La Salle was highly pleased with my exhortations, and their influence upon his men. When I considered what might be the result of the quarrel, and how much more Christian-like it would be to prevent the effusion of blood, and end the difficulty in a friendly manner, I went toward the oldest savage, who, seeing me unarmed, supposed I came with designs of a mediator, and received me with civility. In the meantime one of our men observed that one of the savages had a piece of the stolen cloth wrapped about his head, and he went up to the savage and snatched the cloth away. This vigorous action so much terrified the savages that, although they were near six score against eleven, they presented me with the pipe of peace, which I received. M. La Salle gave his word that they might come to him in security. Two of their old men came forward, and in a speech disapproved the conduct of their young men ; that they could not restore the goods taken, but that, having been cut to pieces, they could only return the articles which were not spoiled, and pay for the rest. The orators presented, with their speeches, some garments made of beaver skins, to appease the wrath of M. La Salle, who, frowning a little, informed them that while he designed to wrong no one, he did not intend others should affront or injure him ; but, inas- much as they did not approve what their young men had done, and were willing to make restitution for the same, he would accept their gifts and become their friend. The conditions were fully complied with, and peace happily concluded without farther hostility. " The day was spent in dancing, feasting and speech-making. The chief of the band had taken particular notice of the behavior of the INDIAN SPEECH TO THE GRAY-COATS. 71 Franciscans. ' These gray-coats,'* said the cliief of the Foxes, ' we value very much. They go barefooted as well as we. They scorn our beaver gowns, and decline all other presents. They do not carry arms to kill us. They flatter and make much of our children, and give them knives and other toys without expecting any reward. Those of our tribe who have been to Canada tell us that Onnotio (so they call the Governor) loves them very much, and that the Fathers of the Gown have given up all to come and see us. Therefore, you who are captain over all these men, be pleased to leave with us one of these gray-coats, whom we will conduct to our village when we shall have killed what we design of the buffaloes. Thou art also master of these warriors ; remain with us, instead of going among the Illinois, who, already advised of your coming, are resolved to kill you and all of your soldiers. And how can you resist so powerful nation ? ' " The day November 1st we again embarked on the lake, and came to the mouth of the river of the Miamis, which comes from the south- east and falls into the lake." * While the Jesuit Fathers wore black gowns as a distinctive mark of their sect, the Recollects, or Franciscan missionaries, wore coats of gray. CHAPTER X. THE SEVERAL MTAMIS-LA SALLE'S VOYAGE DOWN THE ILLINOIS. Much confusion has ai'isen because, at different periods, the name of " Miami" has been applied to no less than five different rivers, viz. : The St. Joseph, of Lake Michigan ; the Maumee, often designated as the Miami of the Lakes, to distinguish it from the Miami which falls into the Ohio River below Cincinnati ; then there is the Little Miami of the Ohio emptying in above its greater namesake; and finally the "Wabash, which with more propriety bore the name of the "Kiver of the Miamis." The French, it is assumed, gave the name " Miami " to the river emptying into Lake Michigan, for the reason that there was a village of that tribe on its banks before and at the time of La Salle's first visit, as already noted on page 24. The name was not of long duration, for it was soon exchanged for that of St. Joseph, b}^ which it has ever since been known. La Llontan is the last authority who refers to it by the name of Miami. Shortly after the year named, the date being now nnknown, a Catholic mission was established up the river, and, Charlevoix says, about six leagues below the portage, at South Bend, and called the Mission of St. Joseph ; and from this cir- cumstance, we may safely infer, the river acquired the same name. It is not known, either, by whom the Mission of St, Joseph was organ- ized ; very probably, however, by Father Claude Allouez. This good man, and to whose writings the people of the west are so largely indebted for many valuable historical reminiscences, seems to have been forgotten in the respect that is showered upon other more conspicuous though less meritorious characters. The Mission of the Immaculate Conception, after Manpiette's death, remained unoccupied for the space of two years, then Claude Jean Allouez received orders to proceed thither from the Mission of St, James, at the town of Maskoutens, on Fox River, Wisconsin. Leaving in October, IGTG, on account of an exceptionally early winter, he was compelled to delay his journey nntil the following February, when he again started ; reaching Lake Mich- igan on the eve of St. Joseph, he called the lake after this saint. Embarking on the lake on the 23d of March, and coasting along the western shore, after numerous delays occasioned by ice and storm, he arrived at Chicago River. He then made the portage and entered the 72 LA SALLE REACHES THE ST. JOSEPH. 73 Kaskaskia village, M'hicli was probably near Peoria Lake, on the 8th of April, 1077. The Indians gave him a very cordial reception, and flocked from all directions to the town to hear the "Black Gown" relate the truths of Christianity. For the glorification of God and the Blessed Virgin Immaculate, Allouez " erected, in the midst of the village, a cross twenty-five feet high, chanting the Vexilla Regis in the presence of an admiring and respectful throng of Indians ; he covered it with garlands of beautiful flowers."* Father Allouez did not remain but a short time at the mission ; leaving it that spring he returned in 1078, and continued there until La Salle's arrival in the winter of 1079-80. The next succeeding decade Allouez passed either at this mission or at the one on St. Joseph's River, on the eastern side of Lake Michigan, where he died in 1090. Bancroft says: '^Allouez has imperishably connected his name with the progress of discovery in the West ; unhonorcd among us now, he was not inferior in zeal and ability to any of the great missionaries of his time." We resume Hennepin's narrative: "We had appointed this place (the mouth of the St. Joseph) for our rendezvous before leaving the outlet of Green Bay, and expected to meet the twenty men we had left at Mackinaw, who, being ordered to come by the eastern coast of the lake, had a much shorter cut than we, who came by the western side ; besides this, their canoes were not so heavily laden as ours. Still, we found no one here, nor any signs that they had been here before us.f "It was resolved to advise M. La Salle that it was imprudent to remain here any longer for the absent naen, and expose ourselves to the hardships of winter, when it would be doubtful if we could find the Illinois in their villages, as then they would be divided into fami- lies, and scattered over the country to subsist more conveniently. We further represented that the game might fail us, in which event we must certainly perish with hunger ; whei'eas, if we went forward, we would find enough corn among the Illinois, who would rather suppl}- * " Allouez' Journal," published in Shea's " Discoveiy on Exploration of the Missis- sippi Valley . " fin some works, the Geological Surveys of Indiana for 1873, p. 458, among others, it is erroneously assumed that La Salle was the discoverer of the St. Joseph River. While Fathers Hennepin and Zenobe Membre, who were with La Salle, may be the only accessible authors who have described it, the stream and its location was well known to La Salle and to them, as appears from their own account of it before they had ever seen it. Before leaving Mackinaw, Tonti was ordered to hunt up the deserters from, and to bring in the tardy traders belonging to. La Salle's party, and conduct them to the mouth of the St. Joseph. The pilot of the Griffin was under instruction to bring her there. Indeed, the conduct of the whole expedition leaves no room to doubt that the whole route to the Illinois River, by way of the St. Joseph and the Kankakee port- age, was well known at Mackinaw, and definitely fixed upon by La Salle, at least be- fore leaving the latter place. 74 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NOUTinVEST. fourteen men than thirty-two with provisions. We said further that it would be quite impossible, if we delayed longer, to continue the voyage until the winter was over, because the rivers would be frozen over and we could not make use of our canoes. Notwithstanding these reasons, M. La Salle thought it necessary to remain for the rest of the men, as we would be in no condition to appear before the Illi- nois and treat with them with our present small force, whom they would meet with scorn. That it would be better to delay our entry into their country, and in the meantime tiy to meet with some of their nation, learn their language, and gain their good will by presents. La Salle concluded his discourse with the declaration that, although all of his men might run away, as for himself, he would remain alone with his Indian hunter, and find means to nuiintain tlio three missionaries — meaning me and my two clerical brethren. Having come to this con- clusion, La Salle called his men together, and advised them that he expected each one to do his duty ; that he pro})osed to build a fort here for the security of the ship and the safety of our goods, and our- selves, too, in case of any disaster. ISTone of us, at this time, knew that our ship had been lost. The men were quite dissatisfied at La- Salle's course, but his reasons therefor were so many that they yielded, and agreed to entirely follow his directions. " Just at the mouth of the river was an eminence M'ith a kind of plateau, naturally fortified. It was quite steep, of a triangular shape, defended on two sides by the river, and on the other by a deep ravine which the water had washed out. We felled the trees that grew on this hill, and cleared from it the bushes for the distance of two musket shot. We began to build a redoubt about forty feet long by eighty broad, with great square pieces of timber laid one upon the other, and then cut a great number of stakes, some twenty feet long, to drive into the ground on the river side, to make the fort inaccessible in that direc- tion. We were employed the whole of the month of Koveml)er in this work, which was very fatiguing, — having no other food than the beai's our savage killed. These animals are here very abundant, be- cause of tlie great quantity of grai)es they tind in this vicinity. Their flesh was so fat and luscious that our men grew weary of it, and desired to go themselves and hunt for wild goats. La Salle denied them that liberty, which made some murmurs among the men, and they went unwillingly to their work. These annoyances, with the near approach of winter, together with the apprehension that his ship was lost, gave La Salle a melancholy which he resolutely tried to but could not con- ceal. '*We made a hut wherein we performed divine service every Sun- FORT MI A. MIS. 75 day ; and Father Gabriel and myself, who preached alternately, care- fully selected such texts as were suitable to our situation, and fit to inspire us w^ith courage, concord, and brotherly love. Our exhorta- tions produced good results, and deterred our men from their meditated desertion. We sounded the mouth of the river and found a sand-bar, on which we feared our expected ship might strike ; we marked out a channel through which the vessel might safely enter by attaching buoys, made of inflated bear-skins, fostened to long poles driven into the bed of the lake. Two men were also sent back to Mackinac to await there the return of the ship, and serve as ]3ilots.* " M. Tonti arrived on the 20tli of l^oveinber with two canoes, laden with stags and deer, which were a welcome refreshment to our men. lie did not bring more than about one-half of his men, having left the rest on the opposite side of the lake, within three days' journey of the fort. La Salle was angry with him on this account, because he was afraid the men would run away. Tonti's party informed us that the Griffin had not put into Mackinaw, according to orders, and that they had heard nothing of her since our departure, although they had made inquiries of the savages living on the coast of the lake. This confirmed the suspicion, or rather the belief, that the vessel had been cast away. However, M. La Salle continued work on the building of the fort, which was at last completed and called Fort Miamis. " The winter was drawing nigh, and La Salle, fearful that the ice would interrupt his voyage, sent M. Tonti back to hurry forward the men he had left, and to command them to come to him immediately ; but, meeting with a violent storm, their canoes were driven against the beach and broken to pieces, and Tonti's men lost their guns and equipage, and were obliged to return to us overland. A few days, after this all our men arrived except two, w'ho had deserted. We pre- pared at once to resume our voyage ; rains having fallen that melted the ice and made the rivers navigable. " On the 3d of December, 1679, we embarked, being in all thirt}-- three men, in eight canoes. We left the lake of the Illinois and went up the river of the Miamis, in which we had previously made soundings. We made about five-and-twenty leagues southward, but failed to discover the place where we were to land, and carry our canoes and efl'ects into the river of the Illinois, which falls into that of the Meschasipi, that is, in the language of the Illinois, the great river. We had already gone beyond the place of the portage, and, not know- ing where we were, we thought proper to remain there, as we were expecting M. La Salle, who had taken to the land to view the country. *This is the beginning, at what is now known as Benton Harbor, Michigan. 76 HISTOUIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. We staid here quite a while, and, La Salle failing to appear, I went a distance into the woods with two men, who fired off their guns to notify him of the place where we were. In the meantime two other men went higher up the river, in canoes, in search of him. We all returned toward evening, having vainly endeavored to find him. The next day I went up the river myself, hut, hearing nothing of him, I came back, and found our men very much perplexed, fearing he was lost. However, about four o'clock in the afternoon M. La Salle returned to us, having his face and hands as black as pitch. He carried two beasts, as big as muskrats, whose skin was very fine, and like ermine. He had killed them with a stick, as they hung by their tails to the branches of the trees. " He told us that the marshes he had met on his way had compelled him to bring a large compass ; and that, being nnich delayed by the snow, which fell very fast, it was past midnight before he arrived upon the banks of the river, where he fired his gun twice, and, hearing no answer, he concluded that we had gone higher up the river, and had, therefore, marched that way. He added that, after three hours' march, he saw a fire upon a little hill, whither he went directly and hailed us several times ; but, hearing no reply, he approached and found no per- son near the fire, but only some dry grass, upon which a man had laid a little while before, as he conjectured, because the bed was still warm. He supposed that a savage had been occupying it, who fied upon his approach, and was now hid in ambuscade near by. La Salle called out loudly to him in two or three languages, saying that he need not be afraid of him, and that he was agoing to lie in his bed. La Salle received no answer. To guard against surprise, La Salle cut bushes and placed them to obstruct the way, and sat down by the fire, the smoke of which blackened his hands and face, as I have already observed. Hav- ing warmed and rested himself, he laid down under the tree upon the dry grass the savage had gathered and slept well, notwithstanding the frost and snow. Father Gabriel and I desired him to keep with his men, and not to expose himself in the future, as the success of our enterprise depended solely on him, and he promised to follow our advice. Our savage, who remained behind to hunt, finding none of us at the portage, came higher n\) the river, to where we were, and told us we had missed the place. We sent all the canoes back under his charge except one, which I retained for M. La Salle, who was so weary that he was obliged to remain there that night. I made a little hut with mats, constructed with marsh rushes, in which we laid down together for the night. By an unha])py accident our cabin took fire, and we were very near being burned alive after we had gone to sleep." ABORIGINAL NAME OF "KANKAKEE." 77 Here follows Hennepin's description of the Kankakee portage, and of the marshy grounds about the headwaters of this stream, as already quoted on page 2-i. " Having passed through the marshes, we came to a vast prairie, in which nothing grows but grasses, which were at this time dry and burnt, because the Miamis set the grasses on fire every year, in hunt- ing for wild oxen (buftalo), as I shall mention farther on. We found no game, which was a disappointment to us, as our provisions had begun to fail. Our men traveled about sixty miles without killing anj'thing other than a lean stag, a small wild goat, a few swan and two bustards, which were but a scanty subsistence for two and thirty men. Most of the men were become so weary of this laborious life that, were it practicable, they would have run away and joined the savages, who, as we inferred by the great fires which we saw on the prairies, were not very far from us. There nmst be an innumerable quantity of wild cattle in this country, since the ground here is every- where covered with their horns. Ths Miamis hunt them toward the latter end of autunm.'-* That part of the Illinois River above the Desplaines is called the Kankakee, which is a corruption of its original Indian name. St. Cosme, the narrative of whose voj^age down the Illinois Kiver, by way of Chicago, in 1699, and found in Dr. Shea's work of "Early Voyages Up and Down the Mississippi," refers to it as the The-a-li-ke, " which is the real river of the Illinois, and ^says) that which we de- scended (the Desplaines) was only a branch." Father Marest, in his letter of November 9, 1712, narrating a journey he had previously made from Kaskaskia up to the Mission of St. Joseph, says of the Illi- nois River : " We transported all there w^as in the canoe toward the source of the Illinois (Indian), which they call Hau-ki-ki." Father Charlevoix, who descended the Kankakee from the portage, in his let- ter, dated at the source of the river Theakiki, September 17, 1721, says : " This morning I walked a league farther in the meadow, having my feet almost always in the water ; afterward I met with a kind of a pool or marsh, which had a comnmnication with several others of dif- ferent sizes, but the largest was about a hundred paces in circuit ; these are the sources of the river The-a-ki-ki, wh'ich, by a corrupted pronun- ciation, our Indians call Ki-a-ki-ki. Theak signifies a wolf, in what language I do not remember, but the river bears that name because the Mahingan§ (Mohicans), who were likewise called wolves, had formerl}' * Hennepin and his party were not aware of the migratory habits of the buffiilo ; and that their scarcity on the Kankakee in the winter months was because the herds had gone southward to warmer latitude and better pasturage. 78 HISTORIC NOTES ON TIIR XORTIIWEST. taken refuge on its banks." * The Mohicans were of the Algonquin stock, anciently living east of the Hudson River, where they had been so persecuted and nearly destroyed b}- the implacable Iroquois that their tribal integrity was lost, and they were dispersed in small fami- lies over the west, seeking protection in isolated places, or living at sufferance among their Algonquin kindred. They were brave, faithful to the extreme, famous scouts, and successful hunters. -La Salle, ap- preciating these valuable traits, usually kept a few of them in his em- ploy. The "savage," or "hunter," so often referred to by Hennepin, in the extracts we have taken from his journal, was a Mohican. In a report made to the late Governor Xinian Edwards, in 1812, by John Hays, interpreter and Coureur de Bois of the routes, rivers and Indian villages in the then Illinois Territory, Mr. Hays calls the Kankakee the Quin-que-que, which was probably its French-Indian name.f Col. Guerdon S. Hubbard, who for many years, dating back as early as 1819, was a trader, and commanded great influence with the bands of Pottawatomies, claiming the Kankakee as their countr}', informs the writer that the Pottawatomie name of the Kankakee is Kj'-an-ke-a-kee, meaning " the river of the wonderful or beautiful land, — as it really is, westward of the marshes. "A-kee," "Ah-ke" and "Aki," in the Algonquin dialect, signifies earth or land. The name Desplaines, like that of the Kankakee, has undergone changes in the progress of time. On a French map of Louisiana, in 1717, the Desplaines is laid down as the Chicago River. Just after Great Britain had secured the possessions of the French east of the Mississippi, by conquest and treaty, and when the British authorities were keenly alive to everything pertaining to their newly acquired possessions, an elaborate map, collated from the most authentic sources by Eman Bowen, geographer to His Majesty- King George the Third, was issued, and on this map the Desplaines is laid down as the Illinois, or Chicago River. Many early French writers speak of it, as they do of the Kankakee above the confluence, as the " River of the Illi- nois." Its French Canadian name is An J^lem, now changed to Des- plaines, or Riviei'e An Plein, or Despleines, from a variety of hard maple, — that is to say, sugar tree. The Pottawatomies called it She- shik-mao-shi-ke Se-pe, signifying the river of the tree from which a great quantity of sa]) flows in the spring.;}: It has also been sanctified by Father Zenobe Membre with the name Divine River, and by authors * Charlevoix' "Journal of a Voyage to America," vol. 2, p. 184. London edition, 1761. t " History of Illinois and Life of Governor Edwards," by his son Ninian W. Edwards, p. 98. X Long's Second Expedition, vol. 1, p. 178. NAMES OF THE ILLINOIS. 79 of early western gazetteers, vulgarized In- the appellation of KkT^ujjoo Creek. Below the confluence of the Desplaines, the Illinois River was, by La Salle, named the Seignelay, as a mark of his esteem for the brilliant young Colbert, who succeeded his lather as Minister of the Marine. On the great map, prepared by the engineer Franquelin in 1684, it is called River Des Illinois, or Macoupins. The name Illinois, which, fortunately, it will always bear, was derived from the name of the con- federated tribes who anciently dwelt upon its banks. "We continued our course," says Hennepin, '• upon this river (the Kankakee and Illinois) very near the whole month of December, at the latter end of which we arrived at a village of the Illinois, which lies near a hundred and thirty leagues from Fort Miamis, on the Lake of the Illinois. We suffered greatly on the passage, for the savages liaving set fire to the grass on the prairie, the wild cattle had fled, and we did not kill one. Some wild turkeys were the only game we secured. God's providence supjDorted us all the while, and as we meditated upon the extremities to which we were reduced, regarding ourselves without hope of relief, we found a very large wild ox stick- ing fast in the mud of the river. We killed him, and with much diffi- culty dragged him out of the mud. This was a great refreshment to our men ; it revived their courage, — being so timely and unexpectedly relieved, they concluded that God approved our undertaking. The great village of the Illinois, where La Salle's part}' had now arrived, has been located with such certainty by Francis Parkman, the learned historical writer, as to leave no doubt of its identity. It was on the north side of the Illinois River, above the mouth of the Vermillion and below Starved Rock, near the little village of Utica, in La Salle county, Illinois.* " We found," continues Father Hennepin, " no one in the village, as we had foreseen, for the Illinois, according to their custom, had di- vided themselves into small hunting parties. Their absence caused great perplexity amongst us, for we wanted provisions, and yet did not dare to meddle with the Indian corn the savages had laid under ground for their subsistence and for seed. However, our necessity be- ing ver}' great, and it being impossible to continue our voyage without any provisions, M. La Salle resolved to take about forty bushels of corn, and hoped to appease the savages with presents. We embarked again, with these fresh provisions, and continued to fall down the river, * Mr. Parkman gives an interesting account of his recent visit to. and the identifi- cation of, the locality, in an elaborate note in his " Discovery of the Great West," pp. 221, 222. 80 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. which runs directly toward the south. On the 1st of January we went through a lake (Peoria Lake) formed by the river, about seven leagues' long and one broad. The savages call that place Pimeteoui, that is, in their tongue, ' a place where there is an abundance of fat animals. ' * Resuming Hennepin's narrative : "The current brought us, in the meantime, to the Indian camp, and M. La Salle was the first one to land, followed closely by his men, which increased the consterna- tion of the savages, whom we easily might have defeated. As it was not our design, we made a halt to give them time to recover them- selves and to see that we were not enemies. Most of the savages who had run away upon our landing, understanding that we were friends, returned ; but some others did not come back for three or four days, and after they had learned that we had smoked the calumet. " I must observe here, that the hardest winter does not last longer than two months in this charming country, so that on the 15th of Jan- uary there came a sudden thaw, which made the rivers navigable, and the weather as mild as it is in France in the middle of the spring. M. La Salle, improving this fair season, desired me to go down the river with him to choose a place proper to build a fort. We selected an eminence on the bank of the river, defended on that side by the river, and on two others by deep ravines, so that it was accessible only on one side. We cast a trench to join the two ravines, and made the eminence steep on that side, supporting the earth with great pieces of timber. We made a rough palisade to defend ourselves in case the Indians should attack us while we were engaged in building the fort ; but no one offering to disturb us, we went on diligently with our work. * Louis Beck, in his " Gazetteer of Illinois and Missouri," p. 119, says: "The Indi- ans call the lake Pin-a-tah-wee, on account of its being frequently covered with a scum which has a greasy appearance." Owing to the rank growth of aquatic plants in the Illinois River before they were disturbed by the frequent passage of boats, and to the grasses on the borders of the stream and the adjacent marshes, and the decay taking place in both under the scorchmg rays of the summer's sun, the surface of the river and lake were frequently coated with this vegetable decomposition. Prof. School- craft ascended the Illinois River, and was at Fort Clark on the 19th of August, 1821. Under this date is the following extract from his "Narrative Journal": "About 9 o'clock in the morning we came to a part of the river which was covered for several hundred yards with a scum or froth of the most intense green color, and emitting a nauseous exhalation that was almost insupportal)le. We were compelled to pass through it. The fine green color of this somewhat compact scum, resembling that of verdegris, led us at the moment to conjecture that it might derive this character from some mineral spring or vein in the bed of the river, but we had reasons afterward to regret this opinion. I directed one of the canoe men to collect a bottle of this mother of miasmata for preservation, but its fermenting nature baffled repeated at- tempts to keep it corked. We had daily seen instances of the powerful tendency of these waters to facilitate the decomposition of floating vegetation, but had not before obsei-ved any in so mature and complete a state of putrefaction. It might certainly justifv an observer less given to fiction than the ancient poets, to people this stream "with^lie Hydra, as were the pestilential-breeding marshes of Italy."— Schoolcraft's "Central Mississippi Valley," p. 305. FORT CKEVECOEUR AXD ITS LOCATIOX. 81 When tlie fort was half finished, M. La Salle lodged himself, with M. Tonti, in the middle of the fortification, and every one took his post. We placed the forge on the curtain on the side of the Avood, and laid in a great rpiantity of coal for that })urpose. But our greatest difH- culty was to hnild a boat, — our carpenters having deserted us, we did not know what to do. However, as timber was abundant and near at hand, we told our men that if any of them M-ould undertake to saw boards for l)uilding the bark, we might surmonnt all other difficulties. Two of the men undertook the task, and succeeded so well that we began to build a bark, the keel whereof was forty-two feet long. Our men went on so briskly with the work, that on the 1st of March our boat was half built, and all the timber ready prepared for furnishing it. Our fort M-as also very near finished, and we named it ' Fort Creve- coHir, ' because the desertion of our men, and other difficulties we had labored under, had almost ' broken our hearts. ' " " M. La Salle," says Hennepin, " no longer doubted that the Griffin was lost; but neither this nor other difficulties dejected him. His great courage buoyed him up, and he resolved to return to Fort Fron- tenac by land, notwithstanding the snow, and the great dangers attend- ing so long a journey. We had many private conferences, wherein it was decided that he should return to Fort Frontenac with three men, to bring with him the necessar}^ articles to proceed with the discov- ery, while I, with tv»-o men, should go in a canoe to the Eiver Me- schasipi, and endeavor to obtain the friendship of the nations who inhabited its bardss. " M. La Salle left M. Tonti to command in Fort Creveco^ur, and ordered our carpenter to prepare some thick boards to plank the deck of our ship, in the nature of a parapet, to cover it against the arrows of the savages in case they should shoot at us from the shore. Then, calling his men together. La Salle requested them to obey M. Tonti's orders in his absence, to live in Christian union and charity ; to be courageous and firm in their designs ; and above all not to give credit to false reports the savages might make, either of him or of their com- rades who accompanied Father Hennepin.'' Hennepin and his two companions, with a supply of trinkets suitable * ■• Fort Crevecoeur, " or the Broken Heart, was built on the east side of the Illi- nois River, a short distance below the outlet of Peoria Lake. It is so located on the great map of Franquelin, made at Quebec in 1684. There are many indications on this map, going to show that it was constructed largely under the supervision of La- Salle. The fact mentioned by Hennepin, that they went down the river, and that coal was gathered for the supply of the i'ort, would confirm this theory as to its location; for the outcrop of coal is abundant in the blutfs on the east side of the river below Peoria. There is also a spot in this immediate vicinity that answers well to the site of the fort as described by Fathers Hennepin and Memlore. 6 82 niSTORIC NOTES ox THK XORTHWKST. for the Indian trade, left l"'uit Crevecceur for the Mississippi, on the 29th of February, 1680, and were captured by the Sioux, as ah-eady stated. From this time to tlie ultimate discovery and taking possession of the Mississip})! and the valleys by La Salle, Father Zcnobe Membre was the historian of the expedition. La Salle started across the country, going u]) the Illinois and Kan- kakee, and 'througli the southci-n part of the present State of Michigan. He reached the Detroit River, ferrying the stream with a i-aft ; he at length stood on Canadian soil. Striking a direct line across the wilder- ness, he arrived at Lake Erie, near Point Pelee. By this time only one man remained in health, and with his assistance La Salle made a canoe. Embarking in it the party came to Niagara on Easter Monday. Leaving his comrades, who were completely exhausted, La Salle on the 6tli of May reached Fort Frontenac, making a journey of over a thou- sand miles in sixty-five days, " the greatest feat ever performed by a Frenchman in America."'* La Salle found his affairs in great confusion. His creditors had seized upon his estate, including Fort Frontenac. Undaunted by this new misfortune, he confronted his creditors and enemies, pacifying the former and awing the latter into silence. He gathered the fragments of his scattered property and in a short time started M'est with ^com- pany of twenty-five men, whom he had recruited to assist in the prose- cution of his discoveries. He reached Lake Huron by the way of Lake Simcoe, and shortly afterward arrived at Mackinaw. Here he found that his enemies had been very busy, and had poisoned the minds of the Indians against his designs. We leave La Salle at Mackinaw to notice some of the occurrences that took place on the Illinois and St. Joseph after he had departed for Fort Frontenac. On this journey, as La Salle passed up the Illinois, he was favorably impressed with Starved Rock as a place presenting strong defenses naturally. He sent word back to Tonti, below Peoria Lake, to take possession of " The Rock " and erect a fortification on its sunnnit. Tonti accordingly came up the river with a ])art of his avail- able force and began to work upon the new fort. While engaged in this enterprise the principal part of the men remaining at Fort Creve- cftiur mutinied. They destroyed the vessel on tlie stocks, plundered the storehouse, escaped up the Illinois River and ap|)eared before Fort Miami. These deserters demolished Fort Miami and robbed it of goods and furs of La Salle, on deposit there, and then fled out of the country. These misfortunes were soon followed by an incursion of the Irocpiois, * Parknian's " Discovery of the Great West." DEATH OF FATHER GABRIEL. 83 who attacked the Illinois in their village near the Starved Rock. Tonti, acting as mediator, came near losing his life at the hand of an infuriated Iroquois warrior, who drove a knife into his ribs. Constantly an object of distrust to the Illinois, who feared he was a spy and friend of tlie Iroquois, in turn exposed to the jealousy of the Iroqnois, who imag- ined he and his French friends were allies of the Illinois, Tonti remained faithful to his trust until he saw that he could not avert the blow meditated by the Iroquois. Then, with Fathers Zenobe Membre and Gabriel Rel)0urde, and a few Frenchmen who had remained faith- ful, he escaped from the enraged Indians and made his way, in a leaky , canoe, up the Illinois River. Father Gabriel one fine day left his com- panions on the river to enjoy a walk in the beautiful groves near by, and while thus engaged, and as he was meditating upon his holy call- ing, fell into an ambuscade of Kickapoo Indians. The good old man, unconscious of his danger, was instantly knocked down, the scalp torn from his venerable head, and his gray hairs afterward exhibited in tri- umph In' his young murderers as a trophy taken from the crown of an Iroquois warrior. Tonti, with those in his company, pursued his course, passing by Chicago, and thence up the west shore of Lake Michigan. Subsisting on berries, and often on acorns and roots which they dug from the ground, they finally arrived at the Pottawatomie towns. Pre- vious to this they abandoned their canoe and started on foot for the Mission of Green Bay, where they wintered. La Salle, when he arrived at St. Joseph, found Fort Miamis plun- dered and demolished. He also learned that the Iroquois had attacked the Illinois. Fearing for the safety of Tonti, he pushed on rapidly, onlv to find, at Starved Rock, the unmistakable signs of an Indian slaughter. The report was true. The Iroquois had defeated the Illi- nois and driven them west of the Mississippi. La Salle viewed the wreck of his cherished project, the demolition of the fort, the loss of his peltries, and especially the destruction of his vessel, in that usual calm way peculiar to him ; and, although he must have suffered the most intense anguish, no trace of sorrow or indecision appeared on his inflexible countenance. Shortly afterward he returned to Fort Miamis. La Salle occupied his time, until spring, in rebuilding Fort Miamis, holding conferences with the surrounding Indian tribes, and confeder- ating them against future attacks of the Iroquois. He now abandoned the purpose of descending the Mississippi in a sailing vessel, and de- termined to prosecute his voyage in the ordinary wooden pirogues or canoes. Tonti M'as sent forward to Chicago Creek, where he constructed a number of sledges. After other preparations had been made. La Salle 84 HISTORIC NOTES ON THE NOUTHWEST. and his party left St. Joseph and came around the southern extremity of the lake. The goods and effects were placed on the sledges pre- pared by Tonti. La Salle's party consisted of twenty-three French- men and eighteen Indians. The savages took witli them ten squaws and three children, so that tlic party numbered in all fifty-four persons. They had to make the portage of the Chicago River. After dragging their canoes, sledges, baggage and provisions about eighty leagues over the ice, on the Desplaines and Illinois Rivers, they came to the great Indian town. It was deserted, the savages having gone down the river to Lake Peoria. From Peoria Lake the navigation was open, and embarking, on the 6tli of February, they soon arrived at the Mis- sissippi. Here, owing to floating ice, they were delayed till the 13th of the same month. Membre describes the Missouri as follows: "It is full as large as the Mississippi, into which it empties, troubling it so that, from tlie mouth of the Ozage (Missouri), the water is hardly drinkable. The Indians assured us that this river is formed by many others, and that they ascend it for ten or twelve days to a mountain where it rises ; that beyond this mountain is the sea, where they see great ships ; that on the river are a great number of large villages. Although this river is very large, the Mississippi does not seem aug- mented by it, but it pours in so much mud that, from its mouth, the water of the great river, whose bed is also slimy, is more like clear mud than river watev, without changing at all till it reaches the sea, a distance of inore than three hundred leagues, although it receives seven large rivers, the water of which is very beautiful, and which are almost as large as the Mississippi." From this time, until they neared the mouths of the Mississippi, nothing especially worthy of note occurred. On the Gth of April they came to the place where the river divides itself into three channels. M. La Salle took the western, the Sieur Dautray the southern, and Tonti, accompanied by Membre, followed the middle channel. The three channels were beautiful and deep. The water became brackish, and two leagues farther it became perfectly salt, and advancing on they at last beheld the Gulf of Mexico. La Salle, in a canoe, coasted the borders of the sea, and then the parties assembled on a dry spot of ground not far from the mouth of the river. On the 9th of April, with all the ]K)mp and ceremony of the Holy Catholic Church, La Salle, in the name of the French King, took pos- session of the Mississippi and all its tributaries. First they chanted the "'Yexilla Regis" and " Te Deum," and then, wiiile the assembled voyageurs and tlieir savage attendants fired their muskets and shouted " Vive le Roi," La Salle planted the column, at the same time pro- claiming, in a loud voice, " In the name of the Most Pligli, Mighty, TAKING POSSESSION OF LOUISIANA. 85 Invincible, and A'ietorioiis Prince, Louis tlie Great, by the Grace of God King of France and of Navarre, Fourteenth of tliat name, I, this 9th da}' of A])ri], one thousand six hundred and eighty-two, in virtue of the commission of His Majesty, whicli I liold in my hand, and which may be seen by all whom it may concern, have taken, and do now take, in the name of His Majesty and his successors to the crown, posses- sion of this country of Louisiana, the seas, harbors, ports, bays, adjacent straits, and all the people, nations, provinces, cities, towns, villages, mines, minerals, fisheries, streams and rivers within the extent of the said Louisiana, from the mouth of the great river St. Louis, otherwise called Ohio, as also along the river Colbert, or Mississippi, and the rivers which discharge themselves therein, from its source beyond the country of the Nadonessious (Sioux), as far as its mouth at the sea, and also to the mouth of the river of Palms, upon the assurance we liave had from the natives of these countries that we were the first Europeans who have descended or ascended the river Colbert (Missis- sippi) ; hereby protesting against all who may hereafter undertake to invade any or all of these aforesaid countries, peoples or lands, to the prejudice of His Majesty, acquired by the consent of the nations dwelling herein. Of which, and of all else that is needful, I hereby take to witness those who hear me. and demand an act of the notary here present." At the foot of the tree to whieli the cross was attached La Salle caused to be buried a leaden plate, on one side of which were engraven the arms of France, and on the opposite, the following Latin inscription: LVDOVICUS MAGNUS REGNAT. NONO APRILIS CIO IOC LXXXII. ROBERTVS CAVALIER, CVM DOMINO DETONTI LEGATO, R. P. ZEXOBIO MEMBRE, RECCOLLECTO, ET VIGINTI GALLIS PRIMYS HOC FLVMEN, INDE AB ILINEORVM PAGO ENAVAGAVIT, EZVQUE OSTIVM FECIT PERVIVM, NONO APRILIS ANNI. CIO IOC LXXXL Note. — The following is a translation of the inscription on the leaden plate: " Louis the Great reigns. "Robert Cavalier, with Lord Tonti as Lieutenant, R. P. Zenobe Merabre, Recollect, and twenty Frenchmen, first navigated this stream from the country of the Illinois, and also passed through its mouth, on the 9th of April, 1682." After which. La Salle remarked that Llis Majesty, who was the eldest son of the Holy Catholic Church, would not annex any country to his dominion without giving especial attention to establish the 86 HISTOKIC NOTES ON THE NORTHWEST. Christian religion therein, lie then proceeded at once to erect a cross, before which the "Vexilla" and "Domino Salvum fac Regeni'' were snng. The ceremony was conclnded by shouting "Vive le Roi ! "' Tims was completed the discovery and taking possession of the Mississippi valle}'. By that indisputable title, the right of discovery, attested by all those fcn-malities recognized as essential by the laws of nations, the manuscript evidence of which was duly certified by a no- tary public brought along for that purpose, and witnessed by the sig- natures of La Salle and a number of other persons ])resent on the occa- sion, France became the owner of all that vast country drained by the Mississippi and its tributaries. Bounded Ijy the Alleghanies on the east, and the Rocky Mountains on the west, and extending from an imdefined limit on the north to the burning sands of the Gulf on the south. Embracing within its area every variety of climate, watered with a thousand beautiful streams, containing vast prairies and exten- sive forests, with a rich and fertile soil that only awaited the husband- man's skill to yield bountiful harvests, rich in vast beds of bituminous coal and deposits of iron, copper and other .ores, this magnificent domain was not to become the seat of a religious dogma, enforced by the power of state, but was designed under the hand of God to become the center of civilization, — the heart of the American republic, — where the right of conscience was to be free, without interference of law, and where universal liberty should only be restrained in so far as its unre- strained exercise might conflict witli its equal enjoyment by all. Had France, with the same energy she displayed in discovering Louisiana, retained her grasj) upon this territory, the dominant race in the valley of the Mississippi would have been Gallic instead of Anglo- Saxon. The manner in which France lost this possession in America will be referred to in a subsequent chapter. CHAPTER XL LA SALLE'S RETURN, AND HIS DEATH IN ATTEMPTING A SETTLEMENT ON THE GULF. La Salle and liis party returned up the Mississippi. Before tliej reached Chickasaw Blntfs, La Salle was taken dangerouslv ill. Dispatchini; Tonti ahead to Mackinaw, he remained there under the care of Father Afenibre. About the end of July he was enabled to proceed, and joined Tonti at Mackinaw, in September. Owing to the threatened invasion of the Iroquois, La Salle postponed his projected trip to France, and passed the winter at Fort St. Louis. From Fort St. Louis, it would seem, La Salle directed a letter to Count Frontenac, giving an account of his voyage to the Mississippi. It is short and his- torically interesting, and was first published in that rare little volume, Thevenofs "Collection of Voyages," published at Paris in 1687. This letter contains, perhaps, the first description of Chicago Creek and the liarbor, and as everything pertaining to Chicago of a historical charac- ter is a matter of public interest, we insert La Salle's account. It seems that, even at that early day, almost two centui-ies ago, the idea of a canal connecting Lake Michigan and the Illinois was a subject of consideration : '• The creek (Chicago Creek) through which we went, from the lake of the Illinois into the Divine Piver (the An Plein, or Des Plaines) is so shallow and so greatly exposed to storms that no ship can venture in except in a great calm. Neither is the country between the creek and the Diviiie River suitable for a canal ; for the prairies between them ai-e submerged after heavy rains, and a canal would be immedi- ately filled u}) with sand. Besides this, it is not possible to dig into the ground on account of the water, that country being nothing but a marsh. Supposing it were possible, however, to cut a canal, it would l)e useless, as the Divine River is not navigable for forty leagues together ; that is to say, from that place (the portage) to the village of the Illinois, except for canoes, and these have scarcely water enough in summer time.'" The identity of the " River Chicago," of early explorers, with the modern stream of the same name, is clearly established by the map of Franquelin of 1684, as well, also, as by the Memoir of Sieur de Tonti. 87 88 HISTORIC NOTES OX THE NORTHWEST. The latter had ocrasioii to pass through the Chicago River more fre- quently than any other person of his time, and his intimate acquaint- ance with the Indians in the vicinity would necessarily place his decla- rations beyond the suspicion of a mistake. Referring- to his being sent in the fall of 1G87, by La Salle, from Fort Miamis, at the mouth of the St. Joseph, to Chicago, already alluded to, he says: "We went in canoes to the ' River Chicago,' where there is a portage which joins that of the Illinois.'" " The name of this river is variously spelled by early writers, " Chi- eagon,"f " Che-ka-kou," :}; " Chikgoua."§ In the prevailing Algonquin language the word signifies a polecat or skunk. The Aborigines, also, called garlic by nearly the same word, from which many authors liave inferred that Chicago means "wild onion." || While La Salle was in the west, Count Frontenac was removed, and M. La Barrc appointed Governor of Canada. The latter was the avowed enemy of La Salle. He injured La Salle in every possible * Tonti's Memoir, published in the Historical Collections of Louisiana, vol. 1, p. 59. t Joutel's .Journal. i La Hontan . § Father Gravier's Narrative Journal, published in Dr. Shea's "Voyages Up and Down the Mississippi." II A writer of a historical sketch, published m a late number of "Potter's Monthly," on the isolated statement of an old resident of western Michioran, says that the Indi- ans living- thereabouts subsequent to the advent of the early settlers called Chicago "Tuck-Chicago," the meaning of which was, "a place without wood," and thus in- vesting a mere fancy with the dignity of truth. The great city of the west has taken its na-me from the stream along whose margin it was first laid out, and it becomes im- portant to preserve the origin of its name with whatever certainty a research of all accessil)le authorities may furnish. In the first place, Chicago was not a place "with- out wood." or trees; on the contrary, it is the only locality where timber was anything like abundant for the distance of miles around. The north and south branches west- ward, and the lake on the east, afforded ample protection against prairie fires; and Dr. John M. Peck, in his early Gazetteer of the state, besides other authorities, especially mention the fact that there was a good quality of timber in the vicinity of Chicago, particularly on the north branch. There is nowhere to be found in the several Indian vocabularies of Sir Alexander Mackenzie. Dr. Edwin James, and the late Albert Gal- latin, m their e.xtensive collections of Algonquin words, any expressions like those used by the writer in Potter's Monthly, bearing the signification which he attaches to them. In Mackenzie's Vocabulary, the Algonquin word for pol(>cat is ''SJii-kak.''' In Dr. James' Vocabulary, the word for skunk is ''SJic-gaJK/ (shegag): and Shifi-tjaK-ga-irln- zhei'f/ is the plural for onion or garlic, literally, in the Indian dialect, "skunk-weeds." Dr. James, in a foot-note, says that from this word in the singular number, some have derived the name Chi-ka-(/n, wliieh is commonly pronounced among the Indians, Shig- gau-fjo, and Shi-gau-go-on