|iK^ig)ga;t5pi.'! ^^-^^ , * • ♦ *0 ^^0^ 'bV^ v-o^ .^'% ° .^^^ LAKE GEORGE; (ILLUSTRATED.) A BOOK OF TO-DAY, S. R. STODDARD. :C;/OFC^ ALBANY: WEED, PARSONS AND COMPANY, PRINTERS. 1873. Entered, according to act of Congress, in the year eighteen hundred and seventy-three. By S. R. STODDARD, In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. WEED, PARSONS & CO., PRINTERS AND STEREOTYPERS, ALBANY, N. Y, TABLE OF CONTENTS. \ Page. ^ Ego 3 ^ *' Off for Lake George," 6 Glen's Falls : The village, hotels, falls, caves, etc 9 On the Plank : Our party 16 Pond Lillies 20 The Half-way House 21 Williams Monument 25 Bloody Pond 26 Arrival at the Lake 29 Lake George : Discovery, name, some information, references, etc. 30 Lo ! the poor Indian 32 Caldwell, hotels, etc 37 Crosbyside 41 Old Fort William Henry 43 The Garrison 44 Fort George : An adventure 45 The Historian Rises to Explain 48 Topographical 50 Battle of Lake George 51 Vaudreuil's expedition 53 Capture of Fort William Henry 54 The massacre 55 Ringing the changes 56 Steamboats — past and present 57 Small boats 59 Fishermen, their terms, information, etc 60 Game laws 60 Excursions 61 I Table of distances ' 62 Down the Lake : Tea Island 64 Diamond Island 66 2 Contents. Down the Lake— (Concluded) ; Page. The Coolidge House 6^ " Alpha, Delta, Phi " 68 Kattskill Bay, hotels, etc 69 Dome Island 70 Recluse Island 71 Bolton 73 The Mohican House 75 The Bolton House, others jj Church of St. Sacrament 79 From Shore to Shore : Shelving Rock ^o Fourteen Mile Island 81 Personal 82 Hen and Chickens, Huckleberry and Refuge Islands, 83 Shelving Rock Falls 84 The Narrows 85 Through the Narrows ^6 Black Mountain, "As You Were Island " 86 The Harbor Islands ; Parker's Expedition ^j Epicurean 88 Captain Sam as a Sailor 90 The Deer's Leap 92 The Elephant 93 Hulett's Landing 94 The Bosom 95 Sabbath Day Point 96 Hague loi Anthony's Nose 102 Rogers' Slide 103 Prisoners' Isle 104 " Good bye," 106 Appendix 107 The hotels, their situation, attractions, accommo- dations, terms, etc 109 Steamboats and stages, their officers, fares, time tables, etc., for 1873 114 Probabilities 115 STRONG conviction of duty, a laudable de- sire to give informa- tion, and a philanthropic willingness to contribute some- thing, in shape of advice, to a long suffering people, coupled with the known fact that the pubHc demand some source wherefrom can be drawn, as from a living fountain, supplies of knowledge, has mduced the author, in a fit of temporary insanity, to attempt the semi-literary feat of perpetrating a guide book. I shall endeavor to write of Lake George as it appears to me, giving my impressions of things in general, "with mahce toward none, with charity for all," and if I err in judgment, if I either wrong or unduly extoll the virtues of any person, place 4 Lake George. or thing, it will be an error of the head and not the heart. My aim is to answer questions oftenest asked, to tell of things that seem most to interest the public, and in so doing will probably say many foolish things and talk about little things, but it is well to remember that life is made up of little things, and a laughing baby is more endurable than a cross philosopher, therefore do not expect bomb-shells from a shot gun, or very much sense in the follow- ing pages. Although the main object is to give information (for a consideration), I may occasionally slop ov^er into sentiment, but will try and not afflict my read- ers very often in that way, while for the benefit of such as are in constant danger of making mistakes, I will point out places where it is considered emi- nently proper to go into ecstacies over scenery, etc. I am not going to write a history, however, because the wear and tear on an ordinary brain must be immense; and, moreover, the country is full of them. All others who have written of the silvery lake have made discoveries, I have not. I regret exceedingly that such is the case. I have, however, served the principal events up in a ne^v dress, and in the light of later revelations, twisted some of the old ones about so as to answer every purpose ; but it all happened some time ago, is, Ego. 5 consequently of little interest to the general reader, and has, therefore, been given in small doses, which may be skipped at pleasure for the hotels and other things of the present day. The illustrations are on wood by Sears, Chubb and Ferguson, and etchings by the author, after the new process by John McGuire, of Albany, who, in place of the ordinary manner of cutting with acid, has reduced the old dream of '' build- ing" up by galvanic action to a certainty, and while the imperfections of newness cling to them, they indicate what the process is capable of. Thanks are due (in the first edition, as is custom- ary) to many kind friends for help in bringing it to a head, and especially to Dr. A. W. HOLDEN, the historian, for valuable assistance in the particu- lar branch which has been his life study and as such to be relied on. Prefaces are detestable and seldom read, but if nothing was created in vain the w^riter hopes, by putting this excuse among the legitimate reading matter, that some absent minded ones may possibly struggle through to the end before discovering their mistake, and thus become acquainted with a few of the reasons, and perhaps think kindly of him who now bids farewell to earthly fears, and wades shiveringly into the surging sea of literature. Glen's Falls, May, 1873. FF for Lake George ! How the heart bounds and the pulse quickens at the very sound of the words that bring with them thoughts of the holy lake. In fancy we once again breathe the air, heavy with the odor of pines and cedar, or fragrant with the breath of blossoming clover.. Again we wander among the daisies and but- tercups that gem the hillside, sloping so gently down to where the wavelets kiss the white beach, or floating among the verdant islands watch the sunlight and shadows chase each other up the mountain side, while every crag and fleecy cloud is mirrored in {he quiet waters below. Off for Lake George. 7 Wanderers are we in search of the beautiful, as, with our backs to the dusty city and our faces set toward the mountains, we move swiftly along. At length the ponderous wheels cease to revolve, and our iron horse, breathing forth fire and smoke, rests at the end of his journey. Here, at Glen's Falls, the stages are taken for Lake George ; and it has been whispered among the knowing ones, that, as the outside seats are the most desirable, they are, as such, to be vigorously ''gone for." Now all is confusion ; bundles are hastily gathered up ; babies are sorted, and, sallying forth under a triimiphal arch of whips, we are cordially greeted by the holders thereof, and pressingly invited to take a free ride with them. Coaches for any part of the village ; coaches for the hotels ; coaches for Lake George, and coaches for the Adirondacks, are there. Everybody is asking questions which nobody finds time to answer; would-be passengers jostle against each other; runners shout, drivers swear, boys hoot and laugh, seeming to enjoy the scene, while loungers encourage the competitors and applaud the victors in the race, as, with frantic haste, like sailors boarding the ship of an enemy, they charge on the lake coaches, and swarm up over wheel and boot to gain the much coveted out- side seat. Perhaps you split your best coat open down the back reaching for the railing; drop your umbrella, cane, good manners, and a little swear or two; but what of that? "Victory is not to the strong alone, but the vigilant, the active and the brave." You know it, and make a dash for the wheel, and with your hand on the top are about to 8 Lake George. swing yourself up, when a chap pokes his head vigorously against your unprotected vest pattern, and basely taking advantage of your momentary weakness causes a total eclipse of your head by vigorously climbing up over it. You rally to the charge once more ; by a desperate effort you reach the top, and are permitted to witness a magnificent fourth of July celebration, in consequence of a col- lision with an energetic fellow, who comes up on the other side just as you triumphantly balance over on yours. Then breathlessly, and with a sigh of infinite relief, you slide into the only remaining seat, just as a young lady, with an eye to the same place, flutters contentedly down in your lap. Of course you ought to give it up and walk, if needs be, but you don't ; you compromise, however, and condense, and by a little judicious squeezing — not such an objectionable thing after all, considering the company, and with harmony and the other arti- cles restored — proceed on your ride ''over the hills and far away," through the pure, fragrant air, with the coach swinging and swaying about, threatening all with apparent destruction, so that it is only by great presence of mind, in clinging firmly to your fair partner, that she is saved from an untimely death. Then somehow you discover that you have both been to the same place some- where else sometime, and you gabble all the time, and do get on amazingly ; and, bless you, it's aiv fully jolly and interesting, and all that, you know\ I've been there. GLEN'S FALLS, First by the Indians called '' Che- pon-tuc," meaning- '' a difficult place to get around," was afterward named by the English the " Great Falls." Then Abraham Wing, one of the first settlers, who received lo Lake George. a grant of land surrounding it, built a mill there, from which circumstance it became known as Wings; but, in consideration of his footing, the bill for a wine supper (some say a bottle of wine), Wing sold his birth-right to a Mr. Glen, and it was ever after known as Gle?is Falls. The vil- lage is situated on both sides of the falls, from whence it derives its name, Avith several large cities lying around, as near as they can conveniently get. Puritanic and eminently proper Boston, on the east, acts as a moral astringent, but the bal- ance of power is preserved by Chicago on the west. New York is only two hundred miles away, and coming nearer and nearer every year. Albany is near enough, considering the morals of that legislative place, and — since the peaceful adjustment of the Alabama and codfish questions — Montreal has given up all hope of being absorbed by this flourishing town. Just at present it con- tains only about 8,000 inhabitants ; but the young folks are getting married all the time, and it is really a go-ahead sort of place. The Rockwell House is new, built of brick; situated in the business center of the town. At its front squirts the village pet — the new fountain ; at its back is a pretty croquet lawn ; the rooms large, airy, luxuriously furnished, and supplied with all the modern improvements, and the proprie- tors, H. J. & C. L. Rockwell, are members of that well-known family of hotel men whose name alone is a sufficient guaranty of the excellency of the accommodations. It is advisable to stop over one stage at least, as Glen's Falls. ii much will be found to edify and interest the pil- grim in the pretty village, the immense stone, paper, flouring and saw-mills, the glittering cata- ract, the fossiliferous bed over which it dashes, and the cave made memorable by the pen of the great romancer. Even if comfort alone is con- sulted, it will dictate a short stop, for here and at the " American" the accommodations are all that heart could wish, and the tourist will arise, like a giant refreshed with new wine, fully prepared to enjoy the very enjoyable stage ride (which should always be taken by daylight) over the plank, to Lake George, nine miles away. The American House, on Monument Square, kept by George Pardo, although ranking second since the erection of its more aristocratic neighbor, is still a first-class hotel, and its independent pro- prietor (an inveterate sportsman, who seems to keep it more for the accommodation of his friends than to make money), gathers around him a host of kindred spirits, even those who throw the dainty fly and track the wild deer and moose in their native forests. Glen's Falls is noted chiefly for the production of lumber, Hme and loafers. Lime stone is quarried below the falls in immense quantities, as is also black marble, which is sawed into slabs for table tops, mantles, etc. This marble is placed under gangs of toothless saws, which, moved by water power, swing slowly back and forth under con- stantly dripping water ; the friction secured by the use of a coarse, gritty sand, and the plates thus 12 Lake George. covered slowly eat their way through the hard rock. The village boasts of six churches, a number of elegant stores, a paper mill, two flouring mills, three or four immense saAv-mills, and about a hun- dred gin mills. Among the latter number I have classed the ^' wine parlors," not knowing just where to draw the dividing line, for when asked to tell the difference, I must honestly confess my igno- rance, and give the conundrum up at once ; from palace to pit is but a little way, it is simply A Ipha and Omega. -The educational advantages are afforded by sev- eral public and private schools, an academy, a seminary, which turns off a number of young ladies every year with certificates of finishment and gold medal attachments. I have myself seen sev- eral of these young ladies, and unhesitatingly afhrm that they are real nice, in which opinion I am not alone, judging by the host of young men who flock to the ''commencements," and also t vthe unre- mitting attendance of said young men on the church to which the young ladies go ;. there are also two opera houses, two newspapers, three engine companies, a young men's association, ladies sewing society, Benedict's unrivaled plasters and the village pound. The Soldiers' Monument. 13 The soldiers' monument is one of the finest in the country. .Graceful and well balanced, it stands an ornament to the village, and a tribute of love to the brave boys whose blood stains southern battle fields, and whose names are orraven on its surface. It is 46 feet in height, of Dorchester sandstone, and erected at a cost of upward of twelve thousand dollars. America's symbol of eternal vigilance rests on the sum- mit ; life-size figures with bowed heads — one leaning on his musket, the other rest- ing on his sword — stand on^ either side, while the cross, the croAvn, the oak leaves twined, keep fresh and green in the hearts of their countrymen the memor}^ of " Our Heroic Dead." Water to supply the village is brought through pipes from the Luzerne mountains, a distance of five miles, the works containing within themselves such a power that a half dozen streams can be thrown at one time from hydrants to the tops of the highest buildings — which state of affairs has reduced the three engine companies to a peace footing, and rendered them more an ornament than a necessity. 14 Lake George. Two miles above the village the river is dammed — by the State, and the water through the " feeder " supplies the summit-level of the Champlain Canal — a part flowing north from this point, the rest south to the pa- rent flood again. Private enter- prise has also thrown a barrier across the river at the head of the falls, turning a part of it aside to drive great gangs of saws through the millions of logs that come floating down from the northern wilder- ness. Over this the amber waters break in one broad sheet, extend- ing from shore to shore. Paus- ing an instant on the brink, then churned into white fury in its fierce battle with the broken rocks, it plunges down the pre- cipice, seething, boiling, foam- ing, thundering, leaping from rock to rock, turn- ing back upon itself, its ceaseless roar sounding, and its spray rising high up against the rain- bow-spanned walls. The rocks are blue and Glen's Falls. 15 black and gray, with curious markings, in which fossils of various forms and shells are found. Dividing near the head, its waters pass on either side of the island that is partially flooded in times of high water. Near the lower end, where the blue rock is notched and broken out, we climb down to the level of the water, and enter the cave made memorable by Cooper in one of his wild Indian stories. We can pass entirely through the outer, but the entrance to the smaller one is stopped up by logs and drift-wood. When the water is very low you can pass around the lower end of the rock up to the south opening, Avhere the face of the savage so startled Cora, and revealed the hiding place to their enemies. Here Uncas, " the last of the Mohicans,''^ Avatched while the sisters slept, and the shores on either side teemed with their savage foes. Now ragged urchins, fully and more than posted in the Avild legends of the place, point out the tiger and serpent in the dark rock, and the very z-dentical tree from which the Mingo fell, when spoken to by the unerring rifle of Le Long Carbine. There have been several of these identi- cal trees, and they are getting pretty well used up, but the boys are bound to perpetuate the thing if it takes all the trees in the country, and the story is rapidly growing to be a matter of history. The listener shuddering with horror as he pictures to himself the chnging savage and the wild, blood- curdling yell that went up, as clawing wildly the empty air, he fell, and the dark waters closed over him. '' ON THE PLANK." THE great ever-to-be- remem- bered feature of a trip to Lake George ^ is the stage ride, affording, as it does, an '\ inexhaustible subject for conversation and food for after-thought, fresh air, sunshine ^ and an uncommonly fine opportunity for the study of character. This line is one of the finest in the country the stages, of the kind called " Concord," like the horses, are always in good order, carrying from twenty-five to thirty passengers, besides a small truck load of baggage, and making the trip in about an hour and a quarter. The outside seats are, of course, the favorite, affording the best view of the country, as they go swinging along, and sometimes it happens that all want to sit there, when, like some poorly-ballasted On the Plank. 17 ship, '' with all on deck and nothing in the hold," they go with just enough of the spice ot danger about the position to make it interesting, their safety resting in the sure eye and steady hand of the one who guides the horses, for a little veering off from the narrow plank in some places might cause a hasty unloading of all, therefore only tried and trusty men are employed as drivers ; and, bless you, dont they know and feel their importance? — only equalled b}^ a country undertaker conducting a first-class funeral. Before the route was as Avell known as at pres- ent, many a purse of two to three dollars has been made up and given to the driver to repay him for the " extra danger and labor of driving round by Bloody Pond and Williams' monument;" and noAV, although against Ine rules for one to pass another, it sometimes happens that the driver of a rear coach will drop a word that leads the passengers to think that he might be induced to pass the leading ones, and let them try the dust aAvhile. Soon an inducement is made up, and reluctantly (?) accepted by Jehu, when, curiously enough, something is very apt to happen to the leading coach that neces- sitates a stop, and the rear one goes on. The thing is a success, but somehow you feel like the Irish- man who shot the bird, and then bewailed the loss of the ammunition, as the fall itself would have killed it ; but be satisfied that if the purse had not been tendered no accident would have happened to the leaders. Verily telegraphy is a great science, and not confined entirely to wires either. And so it happened that, on a bright day in the i8 Lake George. summer of '72, with a gay party of pleasure seekers, we found ourselves perched on top of one of these stages, drawn by four spirited horses, and con- ducted by that autocrat of the road, the festive stage driver. We had the usual assortment in our load : the cockney Englishman, with note book in hand, making all sorts of inquiries about every thing, to write '' 'ome to the hold country;" the patrician young lady with eye-glasses, who im- pressed one with the idea that she looks^ as a gunner would fire a bomb-shell, at such an angle as would best annihilate you when it descended ; the young ladies, to whom every thing was ^' so nice " and *' jolly;" the aristocratic and high-toned young clerk, in faultless kids and paper cuffs, whose let- ters, for a month past, had come addressed to him at the Fort WiUiam Henry, where he was going to spend his year's salary in two weeks of first-class bliss ; the uncomfortable looking but proud mother, who, at the risk of her life, would persist in staying where she could admire her precocious offspring, just budding into delicate moustachehood, right from college, and consequently qualified and per- fectly Avilling to tell every body all about every thing ; the timid gentleman, with linen duster but- toned close up under the chin, hat planted on the back of his head, teeth tightly shut together, and hands franticall}' chitching the raihng of the coach as it swa3^ed from side to side, the very picture of determination, not to fall off, and with a large sort of grin on his phiz, as though he imagined he was making a heroic stand for life, while all the world On the Plank. 19 gazed in wondering admiration, and trembled for the result. There was also the ancient victim of a young wife, who could see " nothing but damned nonsense in being jerked all over the country in all sorts of infernal machines, and at all hours of the day and night " — these and more ; but the life of the party was my friend — dry, droll Jack A. — who goes with us, and to whom I am indebted for much that is interesting in the following pages. As bows the stately goose to enter a sixteen-foot barn door, so ducked we as we passed under the toll-gate, then leaving the fair grounds (where moral individuals, who wouldn't be seen at a race course, attend the " agricultural horse show"), on the left, crossed the old half-way brook, and rumbling along the plain, toiled up the long hill. Pausing a moment on the summit, looked back down the road to the village, nearly three miles distant, over farms and wood and fields of waving grain, spread out beyond us, while away in the east the mountains of Vermont rose up blue and beauti- ful in the morning fight — then descended into the valley toward the north. As the horses came down to a walk at the foot of the hill on the further side, three or four ragged little boys dashed out from the corners of the fence, where they had '' laid " for us, and ran along by our side, while, propelled from their hands, bunches of beautiful white pond-lifiies, the most fragrant of all our northern flowers, shot upward, and describ- ing circles in the air, descended among us in a shower of sweetness. 20 Lake George. With ruddy cheeks, their e3'es glancing eagerly from one to another of the passengers, and with rim- less hats held invitingly up for stamps, these grinning little chaps bobbed and danced along by our side, until satisfied that they had secured all the plunder ; then retired in good order, to lay in wait for the next vehicle that should chance to come along. Their lillies come mostly from the marsh on the west of the road, the business being in the hands of two, who claim the hills on either side as their ter- ritory, by right of discovery, and of orginating the ^P scheme. Imitating the old knights of j^the road, they wait for the coaches, where the nature of the ground com- pels them to go slow, then by a judicious cannonade of flow- ers compel a surrender of stamps — in this way, having picked up over six hundred dollars At our right is the ''^Albany Peat Works'' which must have been a paying investment to the originators of the scheme, who sold more shares than peat, until the impression went out that shares On the Plank. 21 was all they ever expected to sell, which naturally hurt the business some. Then a twin enterprise was started in the mountain about two miles to the north-west, the '^Corning Iron Mine,'' which was conceived and conducted by the same gigantic intellect, and now, stock in that great company is considered good at present quotations, as there isn't a chance for it to fall much lower. The strip of still water along the north side of the marsh is a branch of Long pond, which may be seen some distance away toward the east. THE HALF-WAY HOUSE. VERY perceptible straightening up of the driver's spinal column, a whole spelling-book full of letter s's in the air made by the long whip- lash, an extra dash of the horses, and we were brought up standing in front of the half-way house. '' Five minutes for refreshments !" said the driver, mentalty charging Brown the price of a cigar, which bill is always honored when pre- sented at the counter. The smiling landlord approached, rubbing his ' bands gleefully. '' Step out, gentlemen," said he ; *' plenty of time while the horses are being watered. \ Get your ladies up a nice lemonade, milk punch, or any thing you want." Some of us took the lemonade plain, some with 'stick" in it, and some took the ''stick'' plain. 22 Lake George. George is noted for his lemonades, with or without lemons. ^' What next, gentlemen ?" said he, as he poured the last glass out of the shiny tin shaker and wiped the honest sweat from his brow. Jack was very solemn as he said, in his most impressive style, " A glass of water, if you please, landlord." " Certainly, certainly ; right this way," briskly seizing hold of the ice pitcher. '' I dQ-clare I be- lieve the ice is all out," said he, shaking it, "and I guess the water is a ketle warm ; but I've got some first rate pop on ice." Of course the pop was ordered. But Jack saj's the normal condition of that pitcher is to be with- out ice about stage time. The Half-way House — four miles from the lake, near Williams' monument — boasts of a cabinet of Indian curiosities and relics picked up on the old battle grounds near by, a pond where good pickerel fishing is found, and especially noted for the game suppers, which nobody seem to know how to get up like " Brown," and without which no season or ride in that direction is considered complete. We examined the Indian relics, then w^ent out on the porch and sat down in one of the great arm chairs. A woman was crossing the road toward the barn, carrying something in a pail. Running ahead, around, on every side, of every size, age and color to be found in the extensive family, was a drove of about thirty cats ; and they allowed it wasn't much of a day for cats either. Kw aldermanic dog, in shape closely resembling a roll of butter, waddled out, and appeared as tickled to see us as it was The Half-way House. 23 possible to express with his excessively abbre- viated narrative ; birds chirped and twittered con- tentedly in their cages on the flower-crowded porch, and, in short, every thing seemed so comfortable and well fed that we decided unanimously that " George Brown knew how to keep a hotel." Our timid friend was greatly interested in the flowers — smelled around until he got a bug in his nose ; then, in his frantic efforts to get it out, knocked over a vase of fuschias, stepped on the fat dog, and finally sat down on a very fine specimen of the cactus family. He didn't stay long — didn't take much thought as to his manner of going — but zue/it ! " All aboard !" sang out the driver. So aboard we all got, and away we went, bowing low as we passed through the old red toll-gate just north of the house. From Brown's northward, the road follows along the west side of a thickly wooded ravine, nearly midway between the top and bottom, winding in and out as the sides project or recedes from the center ; and this constant turning seems to excite such a spirit of emulation in the horses, that they need no urging, but go along at a swinging pace, re- vealing a constantly changing panorama of beauty, new objects coming into sight, sweet little bits of foreground and lovely vistas opening up to sur- prise and charm the eye that sparkles with excite- ment, and watches eagerly as each new picture is unfolded, until a sudden bend in the road brings us in sight of a sign, bearing the inscription of '' Williams Monument,'* 24 Lake George. The apple tree to which the sign was attached appeared venerable enough, but did not answer to our idea of a monument. ''Where is it?" " Up there among the bushes on the side hill," said the driver, jerking his head over his left shoulder. Looking, we saw a plain marble shaft, perhaps eight feet in height, white, clouded with blue, and standing on a huge boulder. '' What a lonesome place to be buried in." ''Aivful pokey, I think, don't you?" said the young ladies, appealing to the nobby young man, who admitted that it was ^' hoivivid.'' " I say, driver, what was William what-his- name's object in locating in this outlandish place?" inquired Jack, innocently. " I guess he didn't have much to say about it, one way or t'other," said the driver, ''he was a Colonel or somethin', and fell by that ar rock." " Good gra-ciows, did it hurt him much," asked the astonished Jack, then, as the driver deigned no reply, save a look of pity for one so totally deficient in a knowledge of history, he concluded, philo- sophically, " I s'pose it must, though, for that's a pretty high stun to fall off of." " Te-he," remarked the young ladies. Our young college friend seemed on the point of bursting with suppressed knowledge, when a judicious question from the fond mother opened the gates, and we were flooded with information. Williams' Monument. 25 ! i Williams' Monument was erected in 1854 by the graduates of Williams' Col- lege, in memory of the found- er of that institution. On it are inscriptions in Latin, to show the learning of those who erected it, and in En- ghsh, to show what it is all about ; from it we learn that it was " erected to the memory of Colonel Ephraim Williams, a native of New- town, Mass., who, after gallantly defending the fron- tiers of his native State, served U7tder General John- son against the French and India^ts, and nobly fell near this spot, in the bloody conflict of September 8, 1755, in the ^2d year of his age. Some say that Williams received his death wound while standing on the rock, but it is not probable, for he knew too much about Indian fighting to expose himself thus unnecessarily ; he fell near by, however, and at the same time, a greater than he, — the old Mohawk Chief King Hendrick, who as he neglected to endow a col- lege, is seldom mentioned, in connection with the place. The old military road ran just above the rock. The country over which we are now passing is crowded with historic interest, and replete with wild legends of the past ; it is the ^'Dark and Bloody Ground ; " and on the day when Williams fell was one great battle field, over which the tide swept, carrying at its flood the victorious French even to 3 26 Lake George. the gates of the English camp at the Holy Lake, and ebbing bore them back, defeated, over the road that had witnessed their victorious advance of the morning. BLOODY POND. Fringed with birches and elms, flecked with lilly- pads, with here and there great creamy white and yellow Hlhes shining out of the dark green, seemed little in keeping with the history of the place. Again the watchful mother found it necessary to turn on the stream of knowledge, and we were informed that it derived its name from the fact that " during the revolutionary war the English killed fifteen hundred women and children, and threw their bodies into the pond, since which time the water has been the color of blood." ''Perfectly awful !" said the young ladies. " Shock- ing!" said the swell young clerk, with a glance Bloody Pond. 27 which gave them to understand that he would protect them in case the Eng-lishnien (who, just then, was looked upon as a member of a family of blood-thirsty cannibals) should show signs of approaching hunger ; but just in time to avert an approaching catastrophy, the driver dryly remarked that, " excepting the time, number and kind of folks interested, the young man was pretty near correct." The facts gathered are these : A party of the French, who (after driving the English into their for- tified camp at Lake George, and were in turn driven back), were seated around the pond at sunset, par- taking of their evening meal, when they were sur- prised by a party of English advancing from Fort Edward, who poured in upon them a destructive fire. The French, totally routed, fled in confusion, leaving their dead and wounded on the field, and their blood mingling with the water is said to have turned it red, from which circumstance it received its name. Here we reach the highest point in our ride, and soon we see gleaming through the trees Horican, "the silvery water," a pearl in one of Nature's grandest settings of emerald, and beauti- ful beyond description. The first full view of the lake is obtained when about a mile distant, and here, my gushing friends, is one of the places where you may go into vmlimited paroxysms of ecstacy without fear of pihng it on too thick, or overdoing the matter in the least. From where the road winds around the hill, down to the border of the lake, is a mile of checkered field and wood ; in the center, hidden in the grove of pines that line the shore, are the grass- 28 Lake George. grown ruins of Fort George. On the right, across the valley, is French mountain, sloping down to the lake, where, at the point, is '' Crosbyside." On the west, under the shadow of Mount Prospect, lies the little village of Caldwell. A little nearer, and covered with stately pines, are the ruins of Fort William Henry ; close beside them the hotel bear- ing the same name. On the high land west of Fort George was the old entrenched camp, to which the English fled when pursued by Dieskau. Beyond, toward the north, the lake stretches away, dotted Avith verdant islands and hemmed in by mountains that seem to approach each other, until the way is blocked by the misty, dome-like form of Tongue mountain. As we wind around the side and cross a little gully the road makes a sudden turn to the right, and runs away nearly straight, with a descending grade. Here on the left is quite a high hill, on the summit of which are the remains of Fort Gage. At the time of Abercrombie's advance this slope was clear to the water's edge ; and here, one bright day, while awaiting the order to advance, a party of scouts played at the New England game of ''jumping the stick," and, among others, Putnam, Stark and Lord Howe, the latter jumping high- est of them all.'^ Down the long grade, across the hedge, up the little hill, through the arched gateway, around the graveled carriage road, we go at a slashing pace, and bringing up in front of the Fort William Henry, are received by a brigade * Bean. The Fort William Henry. 29 of uniformed gentlemen from Africa, who appear wonderfully pleased to see us, and whose desire to be of assistance is touching to behold ; they charge in battalions from below, they swoop down on us from above ; they pounce on innocent satchels, gobble up stray bundles, surround defenceless hat boxes, and invest unsuspecting dusters with a cordon of sooty hands ; they entrench themselves in front of harmless waterproofs, forage for um- brellas and canes, and there is no danger of their overlooking an article which, if it can be divided, is fair game for two. Of course they are actuated only by a laudable desire to be of assistance, and when the pleasant face appears, accompanied by the missing article, it will prove conclusively that your heart is not in the right place if you can stand the mute appeal to your pockets and allow the aforementioned face to disappear without the cus- tomary '' scale." And right here let me remark that Lake George, like watering places in general, is a '' scaly " place ; even the fish caught are often found covered with them. We endure the ordeal of alighting under fire of a hundred pairs of eyes, pass in review before the reception committee — which is a committee of the whole — register and retire to recuperate, while the committee on creden- tials goes up to the big book, to find out who we are and where we came from. LAKE GEORGE. AKE George is conveniently situated near the Fort William Henry Hotel, and we have reason to rejoice that a wise Providence placed it where guests of this popular house can have the op- portunity of beholding its beauties with- out too much exertion, as it is considered by some really very fine, and adding very much to the interest of the trip. It was written about in 1609, by Champlain, but the first white man known to have seen it was Father Jogues, a French priest, who, accompanied by Jean Bourdon, arrived at the north end on the 29th of May, 1649, and it being on the eve of the festival of Corpus Christi, he, in commemoration of the day, called it Lac du St. Sacrament, Different tribes gave it different names. Father Jogues called it by its Iroquois name, Andia-ta- rock-te, ''place where the lake closes." In 1755 General Johnson changed its name to Lake George, in honor of one George the Second, an Englishman, who, living on a little island just off the coast of Ireland, at that time, proposed to keep America for a summer residence, but his suc- cessors had a little difficulty in collecting rents in 1776, and gave it up as a bad job. HORICAN, the "silvery water," was simply a fancy of Cooper's, He says : " It occurred to me that the French name of this lake was too comph- cated, the American too common-place, and the In- Lake George. 31 dian too unpronounceable, for either to be used famil- iarly in a work of fiction," so he called it Horican. It is a Httle over thirty-three miles long, running north and south, nearly four wide at the broadest place, surrounded by high mountains ; drains but little territory, and is fed by brooks from the moun- tain sides, and springs coming up from the bottom. It is nearly three hundred feet above tide-water, and two hundred and forty above Lake Cham plain, into which it empties. It is said to contain three hundred and sixty-five islands, one for each day of the year ; and one accommodating little fellow, w^ho goes and comes every four years, that the twenty- ninth of February need not feel slighted."^ The air is cool and bracing, especially in the win- ter. Fishing is, as a general thing, good — and easy. Fishermen are constantly looking for the best ground, which, I find by referring to the reliable guide books, are near the largest hotels. This winter (1872-3) there has been an addition made in shape of a quantity of baby salmon from Seth Green's nursery, and it is confidently expected that, in the course of two or three years, they will be large enough to be seen by the naked eye. * " Have photographed, it, and, if modesty did not prevent my telling the truth, should say that, like all of my work, it is excellent." S. R, Stoddard. " Most genuine." J. Orcut. " Caught a whale on it once." Dr. Gumbs, " Have discovered it several times just below the surface ; always getting in my way." Capt. A. Hulett. '' Leap-year periodical ; just out ; ten cents." B. S, Cowles, Partial Proprie- tor Picture and Paper Stand. " Beats my relics." E. J. Gale. '' Most wonderful thing at Lake George — next to my palace." T. Roessle. " An excresence on the bosom of Horican, superinduced by an acute attack of figure fours." Dr. Dowlikg, '~ Anchored in ninety feet of water at night, and found the ' Owl' high and drv on it in the morning. Fact." Capt. Lee Harris. " Trout wear their horns off on it." Cronkhite, Landlord Trout Pavilion, and a host of others equally veracious. 32 Lake George. LO! THE POOR INDIAN. *' A remnant of the once mighty race of Mohicans still lingers ;" they are given to lingering ; they pre- fer it to any thing else ; their wigwams are found in the borders of the forest, just west of the entrance to the Fort William Henry grounds. Six or seven families, in all, from the home of the St. Francis Indians in Lower Canada, coming in the spring and usually returning with the frosts; de- scendants of the Abenakis — " O-den-a/i-keh. " — they will tell you, and pure blood at that. Every body goes to see them, and so we went. We found " the ancient arrow maker," Lewis Watsaw, who was ninety-two years old last summer, and will be a hundred next ; split splints with fat, good natured Madam Powkett ; watched a half-dozen Indian blossoms wallow, like a brood of chickens, in the sun- warmed sand. We even tried our hand at Indian archery, to the imminent danger of every thing else but the target ; then wandered around, hoping to catch a glimpse of that wondrously beautiful Indian maiden, whom we remembered seeing a picture of once, clothed mostly in an elegant bead necklace. At last we were told where we would probably find the object of our search, and thither we repaired. Shades of the immortal Cooper! what an awakening ! the Avild flower of the forest in a dolly varden and a ten pound waterfall ! We crept sadly away, and that night, at the hour when spirits walk, there was a funeral ; " the last of the Mohicans " was laid tenderly away, ^' and no man knoweth of his sepulchre unto this day." CALDWELL. The village was named after Gen. James Caldwell. The name of the post-office has recently been changed to" Lake George," which causes some little confusion, as that was the name once given the head of which the village 38 Lake George. is situated. Some envious people, who live further down, think that it was assuming considerable for Caldwell folks to arrogate to themselves thirty-four miles of water when they drink so little ; but they ought to feel thankful that the originators of the idea did not call it United States, which would have necessitated a change in the name of the great confederation ; or, that failing, been the cause of serious, if not fatal, confusion among foreigners. The Lake House is the largest hotel in the village, and built on the oldest hotel site at the lake. It is three hundred feet long, three stories high, with front and back piazzas. From the house a lovely tree-covered lawn slopes down to the water's edge, while the front is shaded by a fine double row of maples. On the grounds are three pretty cot- tages. All the steamboats touch at the dock, and stages leave the door, connecting with all trains. In the house is a barber shop ; within the general office, a book and paper stand, a telegraph office, and a magnificent collection of relics, consisting of a piece of bomb shell, Indian pestle, and a tumbler of tooth-picks. The hotel is open for the reception of guests from May to November. Connected with the hotel is the livery and board- ing stables of Jenkins & Burgess, where every thing found in a first-class establishment may be obtained at reasonable rates, for the proprietors are first-class and reasonable fellows themselves. The Harris House, between the lake house and post-office, is new, well liked, and partakes more of the character of a select boarding house, having accommodations for about forty guests. The ICE- CREAM PARLORS connected with it are models of 40 Lake George. neatness, chaste and inviting-, and furnished with all kinds of confectionery, ices, and that delicious fizzing combination of wind and sweetness, known as soda water. The Central Hotel, opposite the court house, is kept by T. G. Hoyt, well and favorably known among sportsmen as the landlord of the "Adiron- dack House " at Warrensburgh, and in his new role of catering to tourists and summer boarders gener- ally, they may rest assured that he will fully sus- tain the reputation already won of a well-served table, supplied with all the luxuries of the season. At the south end of the village is " Carpenter's Hotel," also open the year round, which, with several private families who take '' city boarders," constitute the accommodations for the class spoken of; two churches — Presbyterian and Episcopal; three or four stores, where any thing in a small way, from a bustle to a banjo, may be obtained ; post-office ; the stately court-house, with cells in the cellar ; two pumps, and Harve. CrandelFs palatial blacksmithing establishment constitute the other attractions of this noted place. While tourists blossom on every hillside Lake George presents a lively appearance ; but when the source of revenue is removed and cold winter sets in, it is said that the inhabitants imitate the example of bruin, who retires to some den and sucks his claws until awakened by the breath of spring, when he wanders forth, seeking whom he may devour. CROSBYSIDE. ^' Ia -\ Right across the lake from Cald- '^' '" well is what was once known as the " United States Hotel," now '' Crosbyside." Beside the hotel proper, lately enlarged and improved, there are three cottages, which, with the summer houses and outbuildings, look like some pretty little village among the grand old trees that cover the point. As we approach, an air of intense respectability is wafted toward us from the shore, for you must know that Crosbyside is immense in that direction, numbering among its guests supreme court judges, D. D's, Japanese princes and escaped editors, which would be rather strong society for the average touring mortal if the balance of power was not retained on the world's side by the bevy of {jolly is the word, I think) young ladies who are annually banished from cit}^ homes by confiding mothers, satisfied that they will be safe with Mrs. 4 42 Lake George. Crosby (who seems especially designed by Nature to bring up girls in the proper way); by young men attracted by said young ladies, and by a few who come for the pure air, the delightful views, the sense of freedom that seems to go with the place ; and last, but not least, the bountifully supplied table, made very inviting by its crisp purity and dainty niceness. The house, as well as the broad, comfortable looking piazza and grounds, impresses one with its cool, roomy sort of look ; and, although open to all, on account of its retired situation, it gets but few '' transients," assuming more the appearance of a great home, to which familiar faces come year after year ; while the pleasant face of the silver-haired proprietor makes you feel to " bid farewell to every fear — " and register at once. Crosby side has capacity for accommodating about two hundred guests. A drive of a little more than a mile through the woods and across the beach con- nects it with Caldwell. All the steamers touch at the dock. The *' Telegraph," a fast barge, con- ducted by two experienced old salts, runs hourly to and from Caldwell, carrying passengers and mails ; and on the Sabbath every body goes over to the village on the ''Owl" to attend church, listen to the magnificent choir, and see what the folks have on who come from the hotels. FORT WILLIAM HENRY. Just east of the hotel, of the same name, under the pines, are the ruins of the old Fort. The outhne is well preserved, show- ing- the form, nearly square, flanked on the west, south and a part of the east side, by a ditch, on the north by the Lake. It was built in 1755 by General Johnson, and cap- tured by the French, under Montcalm, August 8, 1757. Putnam, who arrived as the French were retreating down the lake, describes the scene as horrible in the extreme, the air filled with the stench of decaying bodies and burning flesh which had been thrown among the still smoking ruins — for the French buined whatever they could not carry off". They could not steal or burn the '' Old Fort Well," however, and it still remains near the east side, partialy filled with stones and rubbish. THE GARRISON. The garrison at present consists of one black boy in command of a brass field-piece, which belches forth its welcome to the ''Minne-ha-ha" on her arrival nightly. Here game abounds, and an opportunity is afforded to send missiles of death hurhng through the affrighted air at sheet- iron birds for two and one-half cents per pop. Just where the fence which now encloses the grounds on the east, would run, if contin- ued out into the lake, under water, is the old French dock ; out from( the dock a little way,, may be seen, on a still : day, the charred re-: mains of an old hulk,« her blackened ribs and: keel half hidden in the sand. It appears to be about 40 feet in length, the garrison. supposed to have been one of the number destroyed by Vaudreuil, in February, 1757. Shell and can- non balls have been taken away at different times, and, in 1820, two small cannon were removed from the wreck. FORT GEORGE. One day Jack and I climbed over the rude stile, east of Fort William Henry, waded through the half mile or so of sand, and went up the road to where we were told the ruins of Fort George were situ- ated. At last we found them, on the east side of the road, near Dr. Bowling's cottage, and, seating our- selves on the walls, " read up " in the history of the old fortress. It was built 1759 by General Amherst, a good general, but rather given to shoveling. The present ruins is but a bastion of what, at the time, was designed for an extensive fortification. Although on an elevated piece of ground, it is commanded by others near by, and would not have been thought of at the present day, but in those times they had faith in the absent-mindedness of the enemy, who were expected to march regularly up to the places prepared for their reception, as was eminently proper for them to do, and much easier than cut- 46 Lake George. ting roads through the forests, or hauling heavy guns to the tops of mountains. On the table land, a little to the south-east of the fort, was the old entrenched camp, the scene oi Dieskau's defeat by General Johnson in 1755. To the west was old Fort William Henry. It was a lovely afternoon when we sat on the ruined wall, gazing out over the stretch of reedy flats, gleaming sand and rippling water. The sun was sinking in crimson glory among the clouds that rested on old Mount Prospect. Purple shadows chased each other over the golden beach and up the mountainside ; flies buzzed lazily through the air ; bees droned among the flowers, and the music of rippling waves came faintly to our ears. "And is this all that remains of the once proud fortress," said Jack impressively. " Battlements crumbling, strong walls falling and wasting away, before the great destroyer, Time. Perhaps, in olden times, a soldier has stood on this very spot, and gazed out on just such a glorious sunset as this — his heart filled with thoughts of a distant home, and yearning to clasp the forms of loved ones to his bosom, little dreaming that, before the sun should make another circuit of the heavens, he would sleep the sleep of the soldier out under the daisy- gemmed sod, where weeping violets, bending sadly over — " He paused — near by stood three or four ragged little villains, grinning horribly, and making observations in a very disrespectful sort of way. " Gamin avaunt," said Jack, with a threatening air. They didn't seem inclined to do it, but con- Fort George. 47 tinued'to cut antics, in the most extraordinary and exasperating manner conceivable. '* Poor feller," said one, with a grin that opened an unbroken line of communication between his ears by way of his mouth. "Got it bad, ain't he, ruther?" remarked a second. " Tooken sudden, Hke," said number three, with a horrible distortion of his face — intended for a wink ; " but he ain't the first darn fool that's made a pious show ov 'imself on top ov that ar old lime- kill." We were suddenly impressed with a conviction that we were liable to become victims of sunstroke, especially as a feeling of undue warmth spread over us, so we hastily sought the protection of the woods back of the ruins, followed by a series of yells that would have done credit to a whole tribe of Modocs. In making a circuit among the pines, and, juni- pers, Ave ran across the ruins — real ruins this time of the old fort — now but a great heap of earth sloping off from the edge to the center and north, and held in place by the walls, which are quite well preserved on the east side. A great share of the stone work has been removed, and burned for lime, at the scene of our late encounter with the young heathen. We soon went back to the hotel, around the road, nearly a mile further, because these hor- rid animals were on the beach — apparently lying in wait for some one, and we had reason to believe that we were the objects of their attentions. 48 Lake George. THE HISTORIAN RISES TO EXPLAIN. ^N 1609 Hendrick Hudson ascended the North river to its junction with the Mo- hawk, and Champlain sailed as far south as Ticonderoga, on the lake which now bears his name. Each nation, under whose flags the two men sailed — the French and Dutch — laid claim to the country dis- covered, it being an estabhshed rule among nations that Avhoever first planted the arms of their govern- ment on aboriginal soil thereby acquired that coun- try for their respective sovereigns. It was inhab- ited at that time by the Algonquins occupying the country north of the St. Lawrence, while all the country south was claimed by the Five Nations — a powerful confederacy, consisting of the Mohawks Oneidas, Onondagas, Cayugas and Senecas. They called themselves Aganuschiori, or '' united people ;" by the Delawares they were called Mingoes ; by the French, Iroquois ; and by the Dutch, Maqiias. The Enghsh claimed the country of this great people by virtue of a treaty with them, by which, in consideration of his protection, they submitted to the sovereignty of the king of Great Britain. Both nations aimed to keep the friendship of the Indian tribes, in which the French met with the greatest success, constantly extending their lines, while missionaries (the Jesuits) went out among the red men preaching religion, and urging them to become christians, murder the English, and be saved. Time passed, and still the beautiful coun- The Historian Rises to Explain. 49 try along the shores of St. Sacrament and Cham- plain was an unbroken solitude, for the lakes, stretching to the north and south, formed a path- way through the wilderness, and nations were con- stantly going out to war against each other, laying waste every thing in their path ; this had driven all who were inclined to occupy the country beyond the mountains for protection; and this is why it received its Indian name, signifying '' the lake that is the gate of the country." In 173 1, while the nations were at peace, the French advanced to Crown Point and built a fort, which they called "St. Frederick." The English remonstrated, but took no active measures to resist this encroachment on their soil, while parties of Indians gathered around, and, instigated by the French, fell upon exposed homes of settlers, '' struck a blow and returned with some scalps." To properly understand the movements of the armies operating against each other, it is well to take a glance at the topography of the country. 50 Lake George. WAY north, high up among the Adirondacks, the Hudson starts on its journey, and, fed by tribu- tary streams, advances toward the south, until turning east- ward it breaks through the Luzerne mountains ; then pro- ceeding quietly along through meadow and wood it approach- es and takes the leap down the rocks at Glen's Falls ; thence, circling around past Ft. Edward, goes southward to the sea. Nine miles north of the ''big bend" is the southern end or head of Lake George, whose waters flow to the north, emptying into Champlain, where stands the old promontory of Ticonderoga. South from this, run- ning nearly parallel with Lake George, extends what, in old times, was called Wood creek, at the head of which, twenty-five miles distant, stood Skeensborough, now Whitehall. From Fort Edward to Lake George the carrying distance was fourteen miles — to Skeensborough a little over twenty — which was reduced to less than a mile by going up Fort Edward creek and down Wood creek in small boats. Still, of the two routes, the first was usually preferred. The peculiar position of the country, with the difficulty of transporting men and stores, led to the general adoption of the Indian style of warfare — a sudden descent on some unprotected point ; a rifle shot, a gleaming knife or bloody tomahawk, and a retreat by the light of a burning building. BATTLE OF LAKE GEORGE. ^ 1755 the English felt that something must be done, and, on the twenty-eighth of August, General Johnson, at the head of his army, marched to Lac dii St. Sacra- incut, at that time changing its name to Lake George. Said he, "I propose to go down this lake with a part of the army, and take post at the end of it, at a pass called *' Ticonderogue," there to await the coming up of the rest of the army, and then attack Crown Point." His intention was good, but while he w^as pre- paring to move, the Baron Dieskau, with fourteen hundred men, six hundred of whom were Indians, advanced to attack Fort Lyman ; but, when within four miles of the fort, the Indians refused to pro- ceed further, it is thought, from their known fear of cannon. In consequence of this the head of the army was turned toward Lake George, and had reached the place Avhere Williams' monument now stands, when news was brought that the English were advancing to meet them. Hastily forming in shape of a hollow square, open toward the north, the points extending on each side of the road, they awaited their coming. Soon they appeared — one thousand English and two hundred Indians — under Col. Ephraim Williams and old King Hendrick, all unconscious of impending danger, so sure were they that the enemy was at Fort Edward. It happened that among Dieskau's Indians were some of the great league of the Iroquois, who, see- 52 Lake George. ing that the Enghsh were accompanied by a party of their sworn friends (the Mohawks), fired guns in the air as a warning, and, by this act, turned what might have been the annihilation of the detachment into simply a bad defeat. The French opened fire at once, killing Williams and King Hendrick, who, on account of his age and infirmities, was riding on one of Johnson's horses. The English retreated, followed by the French. Hearing the firing, a body of 300 men was dispatched to their assist- ance, and a breastwork of fallen trees formed in front of the camp at Lake George. Soon came the English, in confusion, closely pursued by the French, on whom the guns could not be brought to bear, without injuring friend and foe alike. It appeared to be Dieskau's object to keep thus close on the heels of the retreating English, and enter the fortified camp with them, but as, with joyful shouts, the survivors tumbled over the logs, among their friends, they, with wonder, beheld the French stop when almost up to the Hues, while the Indians skulked in the swamps. The pause of the French was of a few minutes only, but it afforded the Eng- hsh time to perfect their plans of defense, and when the enemy did advance they were received by a well-worked battery. The engagement commenced a little before noon, and lasted until about four o'clock, when the enemy retreated, pursued by the English and Indians. Dieskau was wounded and taken prisoner, afterward dying, it is said, from -the effect of his wounds. Johnson was also wounded early in the engagement, and the command de- volved on General Lyman, who behaved with Battle of Lake George. 53 unexceptionable bravery throughout the entire engagement. At sunset a party of the French who had halted at Bloody Pond were surprised and routed by a party of English coming from Fort Edward. The French loss, killed and wovmded, was pearly 400 men ; the English about 300. Thus ended the triune battle of Lake George, September 8, 1755 ; small in the number engaged, but great in its effect on the country, for here was the turning point of the great tidal wave that eventually swept over the entire country, brushing the power of France from the continent. Johnson having earned glory enough for one season, the remainder of it was spent in building Fort William Henry. In March, 1757, Vaudreuil, with 1,500 French and Indians, came over the ice to attack Fort Wil- Ham Henry. At two o'clock on the morning of the 19th, he approached, hoping to surprise the gar- rison, but failed ; he succeeded, however, in burn- ing every thing outside of the Fort, including a number of sloops and batteaux that were frozen in the ice. 54 Lake George. CAPTURE OF FORT WILLIAM HENRY. T THE beginning of August, Mont- calm, with nearly 8,000 French and Indians, advanced on Fort William Henry, which is described as square, built of pine logs, covered with sand, flanked by four bastions, and sur- rounded by a ditch. On the morning of the 9th, Col. Monroe, having withstood the siege six days, and seeing no hope of relief from Webb, sent a messenger to Montcalm, stating the terms on which he would surrender, which substantially were that the English should be allowed to march out with the honors of war, carrying their arms and baggage. These terms were agreed to, and at twelve the next day they marched over to the entrenched camp, there to remain until the following morning, leaving the sick and wounded under the protection of the French general ; but, even while they were passing out, the Indians swarmed in through the embrasures, murdering the sick and helpless. Robaud says : " I saw one of these barbarians come forth out of the casements, which nothing but the most insatiate avidity for blood could induce him to enter, for the infected atmos- phere which exhaled from it was insupportable, carrying in his hand a human head, from which streams of blood were flowing, and which he paraded as the most valuable prize he had been able to seize." Morning found the English ready to march, and, as they filed out, protected by f/iree hundred French, The Massacre. 55 the insufficiency of their escort became startingly apparent. The savages swarmed in the woods on every side, and hung like a dark storm-cloud along their path ; low, ominous muttering, like distant thunder, came from the surging, jostling crowd, gradually rising higher and higher, until, with fierce yells, they fell on the panic-stricken English, striking them down in the very face of their helpless guard. The great number of women and children accompanying the men increased the terror of the scene. Soon all semblance of order ceased, and the march changed to a selfish race for life. The butchery, which at first Avas the work of a few, soon became general. They even tore men from the ranks, and, like savage, wild beasts, fought among themselves for the sickening prize of a human scalp. Some have attempted to exonerate Montcalm from blame, but he knew the nature of the savages, saw their treatment of the sick and wounded in the old fort the day before, and still on the morning of the massacre, w^th 6,000 French at command, sent only 300 to protect that long line of men, women and children from the wild beasts, thirsting for their blood. The number that perished is unknown, but has been estimated by some as high as 1,500. Their object accomplished, the French returned from whence they came, leaving the old fort a heap of smouldering ruins, and the bones of the English bleaching in the sun; the sweetly solemn music of the waves, rippling on the white beach below, and the sad sighing of the wind among the pines, their only requiem — then solitude reigned once more on the shores of the tideless lake. 56 Lake George. RINGING THE CHANGES. great drama NOTHER act in the of earth. A year has passed aAvay, and the curtain rises on a scene of wondrous beauty. The same old mountains slope down, amphithea- ter-like, around the lake ; the mists of midsummer hang over the land ; martial music fills the air, and large bodies of men, under the banner of Abercrombie, are marching through the Avoods ; the sound of many bugles and of highland pipes echo back from the mountain side, as a thousand boats, bearing fifteen thousand men, in all the varied colors of military pomp, of royal court of clan and forest, with ban- ners Avaving, and hearts beating high Avith hope, move away over the glassy lake. Not as they Avent Avill they return, but sadly bearing their precious dead — yesterday, croAvned Avith laurel ; to day, Avith asphodels — Avith banners trailing, and the sound of mourning for comrades lying in the forests and under the battlements of Ticonderoga. The folloAving year Amherst passed through the lake, capturing Ticonderoga and CroAvn Point, thus driving the French into Canada, their hold on the lakes gone forcA^er. STEAMBOATS. HERE has been eleven steamboats on Lake George, first, the James Cald- well, Captain Wixans, commanding ; put upon the lake about 1816 to '20. It had two long boilers and a brick smoke, stack, and could go the entire length of the lake in one day — nearly, if not quite, as quick as a smart man would row the dis- tance ; but this stupendous achievement of engineer- ing skill could never have been attained without the connivance of the evil one, so it was very prop- erly struck by lightning on one of its earty trips ; and, as even this warning did not prevent the stiff- necked owners from attempting to run her the second year, she was ver}^ mysteriously burned — with fire — while lying at her dock at Caldwell. It was thought, however, that she caught fire from over-insurance. The next boat that kissed the wave was the Mountaineer, commanded by Captain Laribee, and built about 1824. This boat, it is said, was sided with three layers of boards : the first running fore and aft, the second from keel to wale, then a layer of tarred paper ; and the outer boards, running fore and aft again, all fastened together with wooden pins, making a very strong basket-like boat, which, when the waves ran high, would bend and twist about in a way that eels might envy and vainly strive to imitate. This also required nearly the whole day to make the length of the lake; and while her commander, out of gallantry to the 58 Lake George. ladies, would " slow up " to take one aboard, it was considered an unwarrantable loss of time to stop for a man, as any good oarsman could row out and put a passenger into the steamer's yawl, which was always towing behind, without interfering with her headway in the least. The passenger in the yawl could then pull up by the tow-line and climb on to the steamer's deck Avithout much trouble. She ran until 1836. In 1838 the William Caldwell came on and ran until 1850, when the John Jay, Capt. J. Gale, took her place, running until 1856, when, on the twenty-ninth of July of that year, as she was passing Friend's Point, on the home trip, a fire broke out in the engine room, and spread so rapidly that they could not hope to save her. Rounding Walto- nian Isle the bow was pointed toward the shore, the intention being to run her on the beach a little north of Hague. Capt. E. S. Harris, then pilot, stood at the wheel until the tiller ropes burned off, then going aft shipped the tiller and steered by guess. Bhnded by the smoke they missed the beach, struck on a rock and rebounding, slid back into deep water, where it burned down and sunk. Nine lives were lost on this occasion. A young man, living there, threw off his outer clothing, saved six persons from the burning vessel, and while he was doing it some public spirited person stole his watch. '' Old Dick," who, for several years, wandered up and down the lake, with his box of '' Rattell Snaicks," at ''sixpents site," was aboard when the fire broke out. The box containing the '' snaicks " Steamboats. 59 was washed ashore, with a little girl clinging to one end, while, from the trap-door at the other, Avhich had become unfastened, the heads of the reptiles were lifted up, swaying and moving about as they were tossed by the waves, and as the box touched the shore they glided over the side, across the beach, and disappeared in the thicket. In 1857 the Minnehaha commenced, and has run ever since ; beside these, there has been the steam yachts " Hiawatha," the " Alice," and the '' Dodo," the latter owned by J. Buchanan Henry, Private Secretary to the Presidential " Buck." Also, the '' HoRiCAN," a propeller, something smaller than the Ganouskie, latelv taken overland to Lake Champlain. At present there are four : The Minnehaha (laughing water), side-wheel steamer, built in 1857; 4 feet draft; length, 144 feet; breadth, beam, 22 feet; over all, 36 feet. The Ganouskie (Indian name of northwest bay), screw propeller, built in 1869; 7 feet draft; length, 72 feet ; beam, 20 feet. The LiLLiE M. Price (named after a httle daughter of Col. W. W. Price), screw propeller, built in I871 ; 6 feet draft; length, 61 feet; beam, 14 feet. The '' Owl," screw propeller (pocket edition), brought up the Hudson in 1871 ; draft, 3 feet 6 inches ; length, 30 feet ; beam, 7 feet. There are several lighters for carrying wood, yachts for hire, and a large fleet of skiffs, mostly of the kind called " Whitehall." The prices are gen- erally : for a boat, one hour, fifty cents; day, $1.00 to $2.00; week, $6.00 to $10.00, Man and boat. 6o Lake George. one hour, $i.oo; day, $3.00 to $4.00, subject to variation, according to season and circiirnstaiices. Fishermen have from $3.00 to $4.00 per day, fur- nishing boat and every thing necessar}'- for the sport, and, to be assured of any success, it Avill be necessary to have one along who knows the ground. The course usually pursued is to go to the nar- rows on the Minnehaha, towing a small boat be- hind. The captain is always willing to accomodate, letting passengers off, or taking them aboard, at any point in the steamer's course. The sportsman is expected, however, to pay fare to the first landing beyond, with an additional 50 cents for towing the boat. The State being afflicted with a game law, it will be perceived that it is not proper to do some things at all times, but every thing in its season. The time for taking brook trout, is from March 15 to September 15. Salmon trout, March i to October i. Black bass and muscallonge, May i to January i . Season for shooting duck, goose, brant, Sept. i to May I ; woodcock, July 1 5 to Feb i ; quail, Oct. 20 to Jan. i; ruffed grouse or partridge, Sept. i to Jan. i. Season for shooting deer, Aug. i to Dec. i. No trespassing on lands without permission, nor shooting on Sunday. There is no law against shooting bears, which was probably an oversight, but those found guilty of taking muscallonge, moose or caribou at Lake George will be severely dealt with, as the law is very strict on these points, and the game constables are always on the warpath. Excursions. 6i The great excursion of the season is the round trip to Lake Champlain, passing through Lake George on the morning boat, overland by Bald- win's line of stages, taking dinner at the Fort Ticon- deroga hotel, and a stroll among the ruins ; then an afternoon ride on one of the elegant Champlain steamers, through twenty-five miles of the loveliest scenery to be found in northern New York, to Whitehall ; thence by rail to Glen's Falls and back to Caldwell b}^ the regular stage, arriving at lo P. M.; and those who miss this excursion in 1873 will probabl}' never be afforded the opportunity of taking it, for, when the railroad — now being built from Ticonderoga to Whitehall — is completed, the boats will run no further south than the old fort. DRIVES. Half-way house, plank road, - - - 4 miles. Warrensburgh plank road, - - - 6 " Luzerne, countr}- road (fine), - - - 12 " Bolton, lake shore road (a lovely drive), 9 " '' Healing spring," - - - - si " A talk with the funny proprietor, '^ Uncle Joe," will pay. Prospect Mountain House (a lively ride). 62 Lake George. TABLE OF DISTANCES. UT few can realize the trouble encoun- tered in trying to learn any thing at Lake George until they try it. I don't mean to say that you cannot get answers to all questions asked, but every body is so independent that they get most of their knowledge by personal observation or by guessing, and the consequence is they do not agree exactly. For instance, you get the impression that it is a certain distance to a given point ; but when you hire a man to take you there, you are astonished to learn that it is immensely further than you had any idea of at first. I have demolished considerable brain tissue in arranging the following tables, which I think pretty nearly correct : Caldwell To Montreal, . _ - . New York, _ - _ _ Saratoga, _ _ _ _ Glen's Falls, ... - Half-way House, ... Williams' Monument, Bloody Pond, - Fort Gage, .... - Fort George, - . - - Luzerne, ..... Warrensburgh, . - - Adirondack R. R. at Thurman, - Chestertown, .... 20 miles. 14 27 9 4 3i 2 4 i 12 6 9 18 Table of Distances. 63 Caldwell To Pottersville (Schroon Lake), Prospect Mountain House, - Down the Lake. Crosbyside, _ . . - Tea Island, ----- Diamond Island, - _ - " Healing Spring," Lake George Hotel, - - _ Long Island, ----- East Lake George House, - Trout Pavilion, - _ - . Kattskill House, - _ _ Recluse Island (air line), Bolton (less thirty-two rods) Fourteen Mile Island (air line), (Bolton to Fourteen Mile Island, 3 miles.) Narrows, - - - - - 13 French Point, - - - - 14 Harbor Islands, - - - - 20 Hulett's Landing, - - - - 21 Sabbath Day Point, - - - 22 Hague, ------ 28 Anthony's Nose, - - - - 30^ Rogers' Slide, _ - _ - 32 Dock at foot of Lake, - - 33I- Village of Ticonderoga, - - i^\ Old Fort (steamboat landing), - 37I- Ticonderoga to Whitehall, - - 25 Ticonderoga to Fort Edward, - 45 Ticonderoga to Glen's Falls, - 50 27 miles. 3 u I I 3 3i 4 4 7 7 7 9 10 12 |E had put on airs at the Fort William Henry, admired the relics at the Lake House, grown poetical on Fort George, haunted the post-office, talked Choctaw with the noble red man (who always wanted to '' borrer " some- thing), climbed to the Mountain- House, swilled mineral water with "Uncle Joe," and then longed for ''green fields and pastures new," so we packed our other clothes, and, taking the " Lillie," went on a voyage of discovery down the lake. TEA ISLAND. One mile from the head of the lake, close under the western shore, is a perfect little gem, called Tea Island, looking like the crater of some extinct volcano, with the rim broken away, so that the water flows through from the east, forming a beautiful harbor in minature. Tradition says that Abercrombie buried treasure here, and a goodly share of the surface has been Tea Island. 65 dug over at different times by the treasure seekers. On the north side stands the remains of a two- story summer-house — the lower part stone, the upper, wood. It is said that, in 1828, a " Tea-house " (whatever that may have been) was kept here to accommodate visitors, from Avhich circumstance, it is mistily pre- sumed, came the name. It is also reported that, before the eastern rim caved in, the hole went clear through, and Hawley imported all of his immense stock of teas direct from China via Tea Island, hence the name. The statement, however, should be received with extreme caution, as the author has been unable to find mention made of it by either Baron Munchausen or the veracious Gulliver. Across the bay, west of Tea Island, among the pines that line the west side of the road, is the modest little cottage of the genial poet-pubhsher, A. D. F. Randolph, of New York. On the east side, nearly a mile north of Crosby- side, is quite a large building, with trees crowding against it on all sides, and from the tower often 6 66 Lake George. comes the sweet, rich tones of a bell, calling its occupants together in the little chapel, wherein stands the Blessed _ Virgin and her Saviour child. The property was formerly owned by the celebrated lawyer, Charles O' Conor, and by him presented to the society, who have since built there, commonly known as the " Paulists," and composed entirely of priests, or those who are studying for the priest- hood. They, in common with other people, having a love for the beautiful, come here to enjoy it. Now, on the left, at the water's edge, is a gaily painted pagoda-like summer-house; following up the graded lawn, to the west, near the summit of the hill, we see the elegant summer residence of Col. W. W. Price, one of the finest buildings of the kind in the country. I AMOND ISLAND received its name from the quartz crystals found upon its surface ; the supply, of late, how- ever, " growing small by degrees, and beautifully less." It was fortified and used as a military depot by Burgoyne, after his capture of Ticonderoga, in 1777, and the same year was the scene of an engagement between the forces then in possession — the English, and a party of Americans, under Col. John Brown, re- sulting in the defeat of the latter party. In 1820 it was occupied by a family who gained a living by the sale of crystals found there ; east of Long Island. ^y it are two nameless little piles of rock, which go to make up the 365 islands of the lake. At the west, on the side hill, are the lovely grounds and tasteful villa of G. H. Cramer, of Troy ; a little way further north is " The Healing Spring," then Diamond Point, and west of it, Sampson's bay, so-called after Sampson Paul, an Indian, who flourished about a half century ago, and once, with an ordinary fishing-spear, killed a panther, as he, benumbed with cold, was coming from the water. HE COOLIDGE HOUSE is a quiet retreat, with good lake and brook fish- ing near by. On the grounds is a spring, said to possess rare medicinal properties; and, through a break in the mountains, the west wind, which is so common at Lake George, comes, refreshingly cool and delicious. We touch at the dock, then, taking the back track, cross the lake, in a southeasterly direction, leaving the three sisters on the left, and, when near the east shore, turn north, and make for the' opening be- tween Long Island and the main land. At the south is Dunhams Bay ; the land lying nearest to Long Island is West Point, a favorite camping-place, as is also the little island, apparently, at one time, connected with its larger neighbor, but now separated by the action of the water, which has washed a shallow channel between the two. Long Island is the largest in the lake — about one mile in length — having a neat farm near the center, and a steamboat dock on the east side ; the 68 Lake George. broad sheet of water extending toward the south is known as Harris Bay ; then, in succession, comes Slim Pointy Middle Bay and SJieldons Point — another camping place of note. Here, at Sheldon's Point, annuall}^ come a party of graduates of the college of the city of New York, who are members of the Manhattan chapter of '* Alpha, Delta, Phi," j-ising lights in the literary and professional world, Avho, naturally enough, sandwich their epicurean entertainments with "feasts of reason," and flavor their fish with a ''flow of soul." The society is very ancient, having its origin away back in the dark ages, before the English language was spoken, as will be readily understood from the name, Avhich is the very beginning of ancient Greek. As an indication, however, that they are about to throw aside all relics of barbar- ism and emerge from the gloom of the past into the effulgent light of the later days is the name given to their camp — '' Camp Manhattan.' ' Manhattan being an Indian word, signifying " a place where men get drunk." It is hoped, however, that their convictions of the eternal fitness of thinsfs will not Kattskill Bay. 69 lead to a literal demonstration of the appropriate- ness of the name. In the bay, on the east side of the Point, is the East Lake Geoi'ge House, kept by J. Griffin ; it is a very pleasant, home-like place, with accommoda- tions for about twenty guests. The smaller steam- ers touch at the dock Avhen required to do so. Under the mountain, on the east shore, is Trout Pavilion, noted especially for the fine natural attractions of the place and for Fourth of July dances. KATTSKILL HOUSE. FEW rods north of the last-named place is the " Kattskill House," kept by R. S. Self- ridge. It is new ; two to three stories high ; ninety-five feet long ; sleeping rooms large — each one having two windows, and wxU furnished throughout. All steamboats touch at the dock. Near by is a very fine bathing beach. The mountains back of the house furnish the usual amount of game, while the fishing in the bay is good and it is said that experts have excellent luck in the trout brook near by. From this point the steamers run in nearly a straight line for Bolton, bending a little from their course to clear the point of Little Green Island on the east. When in the broad lake once more we see, on the east, Buck Moiintam rising about two thousand feet above the lake, with here and there a tree clinging to its rocky sides. Just south of it is Pilot Moun- tain, the two together known as the '' Deer Pas- ture." Looking through the narrows from this 70 Lake George. part of the lake you can sometimes see the giant form of Mount Mansfield, resting like a faint blue cloud away off in the north. On our right, a little south of the summit of Buck Mountain, is Phelps Point. Here a party have built a neat cottage, which they occupy with '' their wives and relations " for two or three weeks each year, renting it to other parties at other times, "■ furnished," which is allowed to be better than camping out, especially if it should happen to rain all the time. OME ISLi\ND claims our attention as being the high- est in the lake. Seen from the north and south, it has the appearance of a huge dome, somewhat flattened, but having enough of the ap- pearance to justify the name. It is about nine miles, from Caldwell in a straight line. Following along on the western shore we see a group of three islands, known as '' The Brothers ;" then farther north, and separated from the main land by a narrow strip of water, is Clay Island, owned by Rev. G. W. Clow, of Hudson, who, during his summer vacation, may often be seen swinging the axe or piling brush as energetically as the most enthusiastic votary of muscular Christian- ity could desire. • RECLUSE ISLAND. <^^^^^P"- Recluse Island probably attracts more attention than any other island in the lake. It is just west of the regular channel, between Dome and Clay islands. From its south end a long breakwater extends toward Clay Island. Behind it dance gaily painted boats, and a graceful bridge is thrown across to " Sloop Island " on the east. The encircling belt of Avhitened stones, the many- gabled cottage, with its out-buildings, rustic yases and arbors, cozy seats, swinging hammocks, and pleasant flower-skirted walks winding about among the trees, with many gay banners floating oyer it, makes the little island-home beautiful as a dream of fairy land. This is the island memorable as the subject of the earthquake hoax of 1868. Late one night a 72 Lake George. telegram was received from Glen's Falls by the Associated Press, stating that a violent shaking of the earth had been felt at Lake George, and Re- cluse island had sunk to a distance of eighty-five feet. It took, and was so reported all over the country, receiving credence generally from the fact that, at that time, earthquakes were very popular, and no well-regulated community could hope to be considered respectable without at least one. But who is the proprietor of this much-talked-of little island ? Rufus Wattles, of New York, whom you will probably see stretched on the cushions of his yacht " Le Solitaire^' as it dances away over the water, or resting lazily in the shadow of some island, for he is an inveterate sailor, and never pulls when the wind will do it for him. For the especial bene- fit of the ladies, who are such jewels for keeping a secret, I will whisper one : Mr. Wattles is of that class known as '' wealthy bachelors," who continu- ally hover around the delicious borders of matri- mony, often nibbling but never actually biting, and tantalizing would-be mothers-in-law by an unwar- rantable delay in being caught. -^??^7"^' BOLTON, Which ranks second in size and number of guests entertained, to some possesses attractions that place it first at Lake George ; for, while it is near good fishing ' ground, and within easy rowing distance of the narrows, it is still connected with the outer world by the steamers that touch daily, and a good coun- try road, forming a beautiful drive along shore to Caldwell. It is rather quiet, and patronized by a good class of guests, many of whom are booked for the season — but few for less than a fortnight ; while that glum, irresponsible species, known as " tran- sient," is seldom caught in the neighborhood, its visitors apparently coming to enjoy the pure fresh air, and the free and easy sort of way that seems to go with the place ; and it is generally looked upon as the golden mean between two extremes — a sort of connecting link (according to the Darwinian theory) between the hunters in the narrows and the dan- dies at the Fort William Henry. 74 Lake George. Strangers are sometimes at a loss to locate Bolton properly. To the guests it means the hotels. A little further south the " Huddle," where the post-office is situated, is Bolton. It is also gathering around the churches, and the shoemaker, pegging indus- triously away in the north part of the town, fondly imagines that that will be the spot where, at some future day, will gather the elite of this highly dif- fused village. Nearly midway between the hotels the road runs up the mountain, which, if followed, will give the climber some very fine views of the lake and sur- rounding country. From the pinnacle (the highest point seen from the hotels, and which is easy of access), nearly all the lake to the south and the narrows, dotted with its hundred islands, can be seen ; then turning slowly around to the north we see the bold promontory of Tongue Moun- tain, dividing the lake into two parts, its broken, rocky sides reflected in Northwest bay ; while over against it on the west the cultivated fields slope gradually down to the water's edge. The drive along the shore southward is delight- ful ; that to the north wild, and, at places, grand; leading, as it does, around the head of Northwest Bay and over the mountain toward Hague. A good single " rig " can be obtained from " Lon," for a morning or afternoon drive, for about two dollars ; a double for four to six. Those desiring to fish will have no difficulty in finding men to accompany them, who furnish boat, and every thing needed for the sport, at three dollars per day. i^ The Mohican House ^^ Is not, as its name would seem to imply, kept exclusively for the ac- commodation of that noble tribe of warriors. At present there are not enough of these eminently distinguished individuals traveling to insure success to an hostlery devoted exclusively to them. Neither is the proprietor a " big Ingin " of the tribe ; does not resemble them in the least in person or act ; was never known, in his most play- ful mood, to tomahawk a guest, or even wield the sportive scalping-knife, with intent to lift " har." Tempting, as the ladies' heads of the present day must make it, to a person given to that little recrea- ^6 Lake George. tion, the only chance to prove damages is on the ground of dehberately conspiring with his cook to lead you into temptation, at his bountifully supplied and well-served table. The name was given the house, a long time ago, by an admirer of Cooper, and on the flag-staff that used to stand out toward the dock was erected a Avicked-looking wooden w^arrior, wonderfully made, who, with tomahawk in hand, perpetually on the war-path, stood, through summer's sun and win- ter's storm, keeping grim and ceaseless vigils over the surrounding country. Time passed : the stately form was at last gathered to his fathers, and the last solemn rites paid to his memory, but his fame is perpetuated in the house that bears the honored name, and unprincipled agents still sell his biogra- phy, solemnly affirming that each one sold is actu- ally the last — of the Mohicans. The house is a long, low structure, two stories high, fronted by a piazza, and backed by a man who has spent the best part of his life catering to the public, H. W. Wilson, whose father, before him, kept the ''Mohican" for many years. A part of the frame of the present hotel was erected away back before the beginning of the present century, and is said to be the oldest one standing in the country. It is also said that on the point where the dock now stands was once a building, destroyed about the year 1800, which had been used by a band of smugglers as~a point of distribu- tion for contraband goods brought through from Canada. The lawn is shaded by maples and locusts, the long point protected by a new and expensive The Bolton House. jj sea-wall, extending quite a distance out into the lake, and terminating in a substantial dock, where the guests repair at rosy morn and dewy eve to witness the arrival of the steamboat, which is con- sidered the great event of the da)^ K number of wealthy German families live here during the summer, and their refinement is dis- played in their happy, social ways, and love for their flower-draped homes. One of them, just south of '' the Mohican," nearly hidden among the trees and bushes, is occupied by F. Thieriot ; on the point south of this is another cottage, equally pretty. The large, comfortable looking house on the bay beyond is the residence of Mr. R. Kanz, an ex- banker, of New York, who cultivates his farm on scientific principles, to the no small benefit of the people round about, and makes it (considered from all but ?i financial point of view, which doesn't seem to have much weight in the matter), a decided success. The Bolton House is new (three stories and a watch-tower high, with a verandah on two sides) ; the rooms are large, airy, and nicely furnished. It is pleasantly located, a little north of the Mohican House, in an orchard, which, judging from the quahty of the fruit found at present, would never have tempted our first parents to sin, had they been placed there instead of in the garden of Eden. Running along the north side of the grounds is a magnificent ledge of rocks, commanding a fine view of Northwest Ba}', and '' so nice " for young lovers to wander over. Just beyond is a fine beach for bathing purposes, with a bathing-house for the con- 7 78 Lake George. venience of guests ; west of the hotel is the church of St. Sacrament. South of this is the Wells House, kept by good, motherly Mrs. Wells^ who can take a family of twenty, and make each feel that they are special objects of her care. A little more than a mile north of the landing, opposite the point of the tongue, is the farm-house of Stephen Braley, which is spoken very highly of by those who have stopped there. The situation is pleasant, commanding an extended view of the lake toward the south, while that of the narrows, and mountain scenery, is grand. Beside the houses already mentioned there are others who take in strangers occasionally. HURCH OF ST. SACRAMENT. This church stands to-day a monu- ment to one who is still building, and shows what one earnest, chris- tian woman can do. This is its history : In 1861, a young daughter of Mr. Thieriot formed the idea of erecting a church at Bolton, and to that end started a subscription paper. A Sabbath-school was organized in a barn near by, and the next summer continued under a rude shed, erected at the edge of the woods, a little south of Mr. Kanz's house. The shed was open on three sides, rough boards for seats, and the font, — a calabash ; still the beautiful rites of the church were here observed, and a number confirmed within its shadow. In 1867 enough money had been raised to begin the building ; the ground was presented by some of the citizens of the town. The bell donated by a friend, who, in his generosity, gave too much bell for the church, and a separate tower had to be built to accommodate it. At last, in September, 1869, the church, costing about seven thousand dollars, was duly consecrated, and made over to the north- ern diocese of New York, entirely paid for, and that chiefly through the exertions of one weak woman — " Miss Hennie," as the villagers call her, and surely her faith, like the church which she has built, is " founded on a rock." **^a iktix vcoxH p isitiaU lunm iJxtta.'' So Lake George. FROM SHORE TO SHORE. EAVING Bolton, the steamer runs in a north-easterly direction across the lake to Fourteen Mile Island, a distance of three miles, passing in its course close by the south end of Green Island, the second in size, which is about half a mile long, and separated from the main land by a shallow strip of water, which can be easily bridged. Next on the left is Crown Island, known in the past by the classical name of '' Hog." North of this, stretching inland nearly six miles, is North- west Bay. SHELVING ROCK. There is something peculiarly grotesque about the appearance of Shelving Rock, viewed from the south, looking, as it does, like the head of an immense duck, stretched out on the water from its great mountain back on the east. There is the long, sinuous neck, the round head, the long, flat bill, extending toward the Avest, and the white speck on the end of the bill is the hotel on Fourteen Mile Island. Fourteen Mile Island. Why so called the oldest in- habitant does not say; but it is presumed that the distance from the head of the lake was guessed at in old times, and called fourteen miles. It is, however, but twelve. It contains about a dozen acres of land and rock, covered with a scanty growth of Norway pine, oak and chestnut ; the rocky surface is glorified with beautiful lichens, mosses and wavy ferns. On the east a deep and narrow channel, through which the steamers can easily pass, separates it from the main land. On the west side is the hotel, built originally as a hunting lodge, and added to as the demand called for more room. It will now accom- 82 Lake George. modate about forty guests ; is the lowest point at Avhich the excursion boats stop, and noted especially for the immaculate neatness of its table. The island is a favorite resort for sportsmen, on account of its nearness to that mythical spot at Lake George, known as the best fishing ground ; for, to tell the truth, fishing '' ain't what it used to w^as." Experts, however, are ver}' successful here, and make it a point of departure for the woods and water, managing to w^ork up an appetite to do full justice to " Miss Jane's" excellent substantials and irreproachable pastries. Lying out, as it does, between the point of the Tongue and Shelving Rock, with the broad lake spreading out on the south, and the Narrow^s, gemmed with its many islands, on the north — its open position, where the course of the sun can be observed from its rising above the frowning '^ rock " until its setting behind the pinnacle across the lake, together with the great variety of foliage, its ferns and moss covered rocks, renders the island pecul- iarly attractive to the artist. It is owned by E. C. Smith, of Albany, and, as a general thing, is not much given to the pomps and vanities of dress. Still, it crops out occasionally, and especially when the Waltonians come in their natty uniforms, to set every body crazy with admi- ration ; but even at other times young ladies need not be deterred from stopping for fear they Avill not receive proper attention, for the Chesterfieldian owner spends his summers here, and his ear is always open to the cry of beauty in distress, his boat and willing arm ready for a voyage of discov- Fourteen Mile Island. 83 ery among the islands ; or, it a mountain is to be climbed, his knowledge of the surrounding country, and services as a guide, are freely placed at their disposal. His zeal in this respect, coupled with his chivalric nature, has brought him to grief on more than one occasion, and compelled him to pass the night among the mountains, with a few boughs for his bed, and the sk}' above for a covering. He is said to be very fond of cold tongue, and '' thereby hangs a tale," which you must get him to relate if you would hear. Just in shore, from the south end of Fourteen Mile Island, is the Hen and Chickens, not a cluck- ing, scratching, fussy, actual old hen, with her bug- pursuing brood, but a pretty little group of islands. Something over a mile further south are three or four great knob-like, rocky, moss-covered islands, rising above the surface ; the largest called Huckle- berry Island. South of Huckleberry, close under the mountain, is Refuge Island, so-called by Mr. Smith, who, Avith his sister Julia, and two friends, were here driven ashore, in a fearful storm, in the sum- mer of 1870. Turning their boat bottom upward, they made themselves as comfortable as possible for the night, while friends at Fourteen Mile Island vainly searched and swung signals, in hope that they might be guided home by them ; but morning came at last, bringing with it the hungry, be- draggled, starchless quartette, to the no small joy of some and disgust of others, who thought that, in surviving the storm, the aforesaid party had defeated the designs of providence, and lost their only chance of rendering their names immortal. 84 Lake George. Following the rocky shore south of Fourteen Mile Island you find many pretty bays and headlands. Further along, a little brook makes out over a beach, and entering the sandy gate you are within one of the most charming of thicket-guarded SHELVING ROCK FALLS. bays on the lake. Alighting where a noisy brook tumbles in, at its head, and following up a little way, you will be rewarded by the sight of a perfect httle gem, called Shelving Rock Falls. Above this, it is very difficult following the bed of the stream, but by making a detour to the right you will soon reach the house and saw-mill, seen upon the east side, looking *' so lonesome," from the deck of the passing steamer. BLACK MOUNTAIN. THE NARROWS. To get any adequate idea of the beauties of the Narrows, the visitor should not fail in taking a trip on one — or, better, both, of the excursion boats, as each has a course peculiarly its own, and differing from that of the other, varied occasionally at the request of passengers or caprice of the pilot. Leaving Caldwell, and touching at the several docks along the way, they usually, after rounding Green Island, turn toward the north, and, passing on the w^est of Flora and Turtle islands, along the side of Tongue Mountain to near French Point, turn and cross the regular channel, north of Phelps' Island, by Burnt Island, around Phantom — the home of '■' the hermit of Lake George," then winding in and out among the many little islets and intricate, mazy channels in a way which, in the absence of the sun, effectually disarranges all the points of the compass, and leaves you perfectly bewildered, when they finally leave off turning, and start in a straight line for the white house on Fourteen Mile Island. 86 Lake George. THROUGH THE NARROWS. Leaving Fourteen Mile Island on the morning boat, we head for the west channel, which runs close under Tongue Mountain. A mile north the way seems blocked by a belt of land extending across the lake, but as we approach it separates into groups of islands, and the " Minnie," obedient to the slight- est touch of her pilot, with many a graceful curve, threads the labyrinth, and the emerald gates shut us in. We are now passing through the wildest portion of the lake ; close at our left rise up the broken walls of " the Tongue." Black Mountain, on the right, over the islands, stretches away to the north, seeming to recede as we approach, and travel with us, its granite crest lifted over two thousand feet above the lake ; its rocky sides seamed and scarred and reddened by fires that have swept over it in times past. A sentinel, it seems, overlooking the whole lake and mountains round about; the first to welcome the rising sun, and, at evening, glowing in the splendor of the dying day, while the valleys below are already misty with the shadows of coming night. The last of the group on our right, as we pass north through the narrows, is ''As You Were Island;' which received its odd name from the fol- lowing circumstance : An old hunter discovering a deer on it one day, fired at him, missed his mark, and, in his excitement, sang out, the semi-military command : " As you were ! " The startled crea- ture, hearing the unusual sound, stood trembling, mi Through the Narrows. 87 not knowing which way to fly, until the hunter had time to reload, and take aim again, this time bring- ing down his game. Close at our left is a rocky headland, known as French Point. For miles along our silvery pathway we see nothing but an unbroken forest, and wild and rugged movmtains, unless it may be a solitary fisherman, or the white tent of some party "■ rough- ing it." Among the cHffs of Tongue Mountain eagles build their nests and rear their young year after year, and are often seen perched on some dead pine or floating, in breathless circles, high up over the water. " Breathes there a man with soul so dead ?" There does, several ; and the proud bird of America is often shot by them, be it known to their everlast- ing shame. Half Way Isle is near the center of a circle, the circumference of which is the rim of a mountain that rises, amphitheater-like, around its western side, and, as its name indicates, marks the center of the lake. Close under the north end of Black Moun- tain lies a group called the "■ Floating Battery Islands." The Harbor Islands Are near the center of the lake, the steamers passing by their west border. The group is the first of any considerable size north of the Narrows, and was the scene of one of the bloodiest engage- ments in the history of the lake. On the evening of the 25th of July, 1757, a party of between three and four hundred English, under Col. John Parker, left Fort William Henry, and proceeded down the 88 Lake George. lake on a scout. When near this place, at dawn of the next morning, dark objects shot out from among the islands, and the surrounding gloom, to meet them, while the horrid war-whoop sounded on all sides. As the yelling horde advanced the English became panic-stricken, even throwing away their arms to lighten their load. They sought safety in flight, but their clumsy barges were no match for the light canoes of the enemy, who pursued and slaughtered them without mercy. Some threw themselves into the lake and succeeded in reaching the shore, there to be pursued and struck down by the savages, who were perfectly at home in the forests. One hundred and thirty-one of the English were killed outright ; twelve escaped, and the rest were taken prisoners. Of the latter a few were broiled and eaten by the gentle savage, the rest rudely snatched away by Montcalm and sent to Montreal. Concerning the Indians' great love for their fellow- men, Father Roubaud writes : " The first object which presented itself to my eyes on arriving there was a large fire, while the wooden spits fixed in the earth gave signs of a feast — indeed, there was one taking place. But oh, heaven, what a feast ! The remains of the body of an Englishman was there, the skin stripped off and more than one-half of the flesh gone. A moment after I perceived these inhuman beings eat, with famishing avidity, of this human flesh ; I saw them taking up this detestable broth in large spoons, and, apparently, without being able to satisfy themselves with it; they informed me that they had prepared themselves for this feast The Harbor Islands. 89 by drinking from skulls filled with human blood, while their smeared faces and stained lips gave evidence of the truth of the story." The good father attempted to reason with them, but to no avail. One said to him : " Voti have French taste ; I have Indian ; this food is good for me^' offering, at the time, a piece of the broiled Englishman, which delicate httle compliment was not received in a very grateful spirit by the fastidious Frenchman. Six days after, when Montcalm and his army passed by, to attack Fort William Henry, they saw the boats and mutilated bodies of many of the English floating on the water and strewn along the shore. 8 90 Lake George. '^ Captain Sam." (From " Summer Seasoning.") Vicar's Island is just north of the Harbor Islands. Here, on its northern border, an affecting incident transpired once, of which Captain Sam Patchen, who lived at Sabbath Day Point at the time, was the hero. One winter's day he conceived the idea of sailing his grist to Bolton mill on the ice. So, piling the bags of grain into the old cutter, with a pitchfork, held firmly in his hands, for a rudder, he hoisted sail and sped away before a strong north wind. The ice was " glare," and the cutter sailed well — remarkably well ; but there was not so much cer- tainty about the satisfactory behavior of the steer- ing apparatus. The old man, it is said, was given to spiritual things occasionally, and had, on this occasion, evidently hoisted in rather too much rye in the liquid form to conduce to the safe transporta- tion of that in the bags. The craft insisted on Captain Sam. 91 heading directly for the island, and could not be diverted from its course — it was of the kind called "jumper" — a mettlesome old jumper at that, and the captain had a great deal of confidence in its ability to do whatever it undertook. So he decided to jump the island — he tried it ; it was not, strictly speaking, a success. The cutter reached the shore, and hesitated — a part of it. Sam was anxious to get along, and continued on ; then he got discour- aged, and paused — in a snow-drift. Captain Sam was always dignified, and on this occasion it is said his manner of resting on that snow-drift was remarkably impressive. Even the snow felt moved, and the island itself was touched. He felt persuaded that he had made a mistake in leaving his cutter, and attempting the underground route for Bolton, so he came out and set his radi- ant face homeward — not a Sam of joy or a Sam of thanksgiving exactly, but a Sam abounding in such language as would set a mule driver up in business, or even do credit to the boss canvasman of any circus traveling. 92 Lake George. Deer's Leap Mountain is on the west, a little in advance ; the top is rounded ; the side facing the lake a perpendicular wall of rock, which gives back a magnificent echo when called upon so to do. At its foot are great frag- ments of rock that have fallen from time to time, and said to be a favorite resort of the rattlesnake. Once on a time a buck, pursued by hunters, was driven to the brow of the precipice, with a yelling pack of hounds close at his heels. " Not the least obeisance made he ; Not a minute stopped or stayed he — " but leaping fearlessly, far out over the giddy height, was impaled on the sharp point of a tree below. THE DEER S LEAP. Now turn and look toward the sun. Black Mountain is again taking its position as the chief of the moun- tains, sloping from its clearly cut crest off toward the south and west. At its north end is The Ele- phant. See his well formed head toward the west. His eye, and that rift in the mountain side is the outline of his massive jaw. The wrinkled neck and great rounded back are there, with scattered bris- tles of dead pines clearly defined against the bright sky beyond. You must call on your imagination to supply the trunk, for he came before the lake was such a fashionable watering place as at present, and not feeling the need of a change of raiment left his trunk behind. Over beyond the spot, where all well-disposed elephants are wont to disport their fly-frightener, is Sugar Loaf Mountain. The name alone describes it. Its summit, from a little distance beyond Sab- 94 Lake George. bath Day Point, looks very like a pig lying down, his sharp snout pointing toward the east. These animals are a part of the lot created " in the begin- ning," and were probably overlooked by Noah ; but, for all that, they are remarkably well preserved, and will undoubtedly stand for some time yet. At the foot of The Elephant we see cleared fields once more, and in the southernmost one is a white farm house, where Hiram Vowers lives, and where, during the summer, enthusiastic sportsmen find a home free from the annoyance of the crowd and unfettered by the claims of fashionable society. Good fishing is found among the islands that line the shore. The slope commands a fine view of the lake each way, and from its exposed position is cool and airy. Hulett's Landing is a little further north, and is the favorite point of departure for the summit of Black Mountain, something over four miles dis- tant. One of the oldest settlements on the lake, it still remains the wildest ; the view northward is fine ; that toward the Narrows grand in the ex- treme. A trout brook finds its way down the mountain side, forming in its descent a series of cascades. One is very beautiful, and often painted by artists, among them Durand, ^' the father of landscape painting in America," who, crowned wath his silver hair, is still an enthusiastic student of Nature, and turns her pages with an eager hand. It is but five miles overland to Lake Champlain, striking it at a point about six miles north of White- hall. A lovely beach fronts the house ; water removed but a few degrees from the freezing point The ''Bosom; 95 bubbles up at the door ; and, although in a retired situation, farmer Hulett usually accommodates a family of thirty, who come early and stay late. The house, is a " base of supplies " for parties camping out on the islands near by, and this retired little nook rejoices in the name of the " Bosom," whose sweet depths have from time immemorable been sought for milk and other luxuries not gener- ally found in camp. SABBATH DAY POINT Has been the scene of many stirring incidents in the his- tory of Lake George. A sandy promontory, extend- ing from the west shore ; or, more properly, a projecting angle — for the lake, which, Sabbath Day Point. 97 from the Narrows, has a north-easterly direction, here turns once more toward the north. The point, originally, was toward the south, with quite a deep bay on the west side ; but the south winds have piled up a sandy barrier across to the west shore, and, relieved from the constant surging of the water, the imprisoned bay has slowly filled with the rank vegetation of the marsh. It commands a fine view of the approach by water on either hand, and would naturally be selected for a camping place by parties who had reason to expect an enemy near. Here, in 1756, a body of provincials, under Putnam and Rogers, repulsed a superior force of French and Indians ; and, on the 5th of July, 1758, Abercrombie, with his splendidly equipped army of over fifteen thousand men, landed for rest and refreshment, remaining until near midnight ; then moved down the lake, leaving immense fires burning, to give the enemy the impression that they were still there. In September of the following year Gen. Amherst, with twelve thousand men, drew up his boats on the sandy beach west of the house, and passed the Sabbath with appropriate religious ceremonies. To this circumstance is usually ascribed the name, which is probably a mistake, for it had been called Sabbath Day Point for some years before. The origin of the name is unknown. Authorities differ, but it is generally conceded that an engagement did actually occur here in 1776 between fifty Americans and a force of tories and Indians, resulting in the defeat of the latter. In 1765, eleven years before the engagement spoken of, we find record of a house here, occu- 98 Lake George. pied by one Samuel Adams. In 1798, Capt. Sam Patchen (hero of the cutter ride to Vicar's Island) built a log-house near the site of the present build- ing; since which the Point has never, to any ex- tent, been without its resident family. The present owner and occupant is also a Sa7n (Captain Sam Westurn), and it seems as though the race of Sam- uels was to be perpetuated at the Point (saying nothing of our universal uncle of that name), for the prospective heir to all the broad acres surrounding is also a Samuel — Sammy, Jr. There is something so hearty, and cheery, about the captain's welcome that you feel rested and re- freshed at once. Then, when you go up to the house, and Mrs. Westurn dawns on you, like a good, motherly, substantial sort of a sunbeam, as she is, and bustles about in the preparation of good things wherewith to regale the hungry ones that gather around her spotless board, you feel that it is good to be there ; and, afterward, when ^' Sammy " ancl the great, roUicking dog, " Major," who seems to owe the steamer a grudge, and barks continually while it is near, has shown you the calves and the pigs, taken you across the beach, where Amherst landed, up the mountain road, past the lonesome, lovely old place, where stands the deserted house, to the rattle-snake farm ; lead you up the brook to the old mill, skirted the mountain side, down to the Indian kettles, and shown you every thing else of interest — then, after the lamps are lighted, and Sam, Sr., regales you with some of his yarns about the times when he was a seafaring man on the raging Champlain, and Mrs. Sam tells her story of The Indian Kettles. 99 " Old Donica," you are shown to your room, and vanish from sight in the snowy depths of one of her immaculate beds, while a lullaby comes up from the myriad voices of the swamp. Then you feel — well, it depends on whether you like feathers or not ; if you prefer to remain on the surface you can do so, but if you do not feel at Jioine^ it Avill result from some cause outside of the treatment you re- ceive. The ''Indian kettles,'' a few rods north of the house, excite considerable wonder and discussion as to their origin. Some say that the Aborigines made them by building fires on the rock, then by throwing cold water on, crack the surface, Avhich could be easily removed, and this repeated several times would give them the depth required. In these they pounded corn, and also cooked it in water brought to the boiling point by throwing in stones which were heated in a fire near by. They are found, close to the water edge, in the solid rock, varying in size from an ordinary pail to twice the size of a barrel. There is also one on an island in the Narrows, and several near Rogers' Slide. The other theory of their origin is that they were worn out by stones kept turning about by the action of the water, long ago, before the clay on the shores had hardened into rock. What gives plausibility to the latter theory is the fact that, in the rocks at Glens Falls, and at other places, are similar holes, and no one presumes to ascribe their origin to any other cause. Across the beach, west of Sabbath Day Point, is Bloom- er Mountain, with Deer's Leap on the south, the two together forming the '' Twin Mountains." Just north of the Point is the pleasant, home-hke villa of J. F. Chamberlain, of New York, and across the lake, on Bluff Head, that of the Rev. A. D. Gillette, D. D. Four miles north of Sabbath Day Point is the Scotch Bonnet, a flat rock west of the channel, coming just a little above the surface of the water. It received its name from the resemblance which a cedar tree that once grew on its surface bore to a Scotch cap or '* bonnet." Its place is now taken by a stone man, which is quite a work of art, and reflects credit on its unknown builder. The point beyond is a future hotel site, owned by George Pardo, of the ''American," at Glen's Falls. \ Hague, situated on a broad, sweeping bay on the west side, is said to be at the widest part of the lake. The general character of its scenery is peaceful, lack- ing the grandeur of the Narrows, but the artist will find plenty of matter for study in the great variety of foliage, lichens and mosses, the many-colored rocks, the rugged islands and the graceful elms, whose slender branches droop and sway like the weeping willow, the like of which is seen nowhere else at the lake. Good bass fishing is found near by, and two fine trout brooks render the place attractive to those who throw the fly, while the shore, all the way 9 I02 Lake George. back to Sabbath Day Point, is considered good deer ground. It is a point of departure for Lake Pharo, but seven miles distant. The '' Phoenix Hotel " is three stories high, fronted by a two-story piazza; will accommodate about fifty comfortably, and is kept by J. W. Rising, who sets a remarkably good table at a very reason- able price. The situation is pleasant, and the pro- prietor is always anxious to please and promote the happiness of his guests. " John Wheeler's Trout house " is a little further north on the shore of the lake — a quiet sort of a place, where everybody seems '^ at home," and is noted especially for the trout dinners which they get up there, parties coming even from the head of the lake to indulge in them at one dollar per head. The store kept by Lewis Burgess supplies the luxuries to a large circle of country round about. A cobbler's shop comprise the remainder of the pubhc buildings at Hague. At the beach, a little way north, Res the charred hulk of the John Jay, destroyed by fire in 1856. ANTHONY S NOSE. From Hague the boat takes a northeasterly direc- tion, passing, in its course, a high, rocky island, for Rogers' Slide. 103 some time used as a camping place by the '' Wal- tonians," and still called by their name. It is one of the group known as Cook's Islands. Just north of it is "Cook's" or "Friend's Point." The east shore is " Putnam," from which extends, to- ward the west, the mountain called " Anthony's Nose." From the bay, on the south, can be seen, on the wall of perpendicular rocks, a perfect face in profile, looking out toward the west, with smooth brow, Roman nose, firm lips, and bearded chin. The boat runs close to the point of the nose, so that a stone could be easily tossed from the deck against its iron-stained sides. Here the water is said to reach its greatest depth. Rogers' Slide. Toward the west a rounded-topped mountain is seen, with a smooth wall of rock, descending, at a sharp angle, to the I04 Lake George. water's edge. It is said to have received its name from the following circumstance : In the winter of i757-8> Robert Rogers, with a small party of Rangers, was sent to make observations at Ticon- deroga and Crown Point, where he fell in with a , party of the enemy, and the skirmish which ensued resulted in the total defeat of the English. Rogers escaped, and, pursued by the savages, made for the summit of what was then called Bald Mountain, probably, with the object of putting in practice the ruse which his dare-devil nature had suggested. Arrived at the brow of the precipice, he threw his ** luggage" down the steep walls, and, reversing himself on his snow-shoes, made his way down through a ravine, at the southwest, to the lake ; thence around to the foot of the slide. The savages, following to the edge of the mountain, where the track of the snow-shoes seemed lost in the path made by a falling body, expecting, of course, that whoever had attempted it could not have reached the bottom alive, must have been considerably sur- prised to see the brave major making off on the ice toward the head of the lake. It is probable that they took it for granted that he had actually gone down the steep wall ; this admitted, signs that at another time would have lead to the discovery of the ruse at once, were overlooked, and they, feeling that he must be under the protection of the " Great Spirit," with characteristic reverence for their Deity, desisted from further pursuit. Prisoners Isle, on the west side, near the outlet, received its name from a bit of history, to the effect that a body of Frenchmen taken by Abercrombie, Rogers' Slide. 105 at the time of his advance on the works at Ticon- deroga, were here confined, and made their escape in the night by wading ashore. The island, prop- erly enough, receives marked attention on account of this very interesting and very probable story. It leads the contemplative mind to grope, in won- dering admiration, at the heroism necessary to in- duce men, at the risk of wetting their feet, to venture across that treacherous ledge to the west shore, while the surging water rolled fiercely up- ward to their very knees. It also suggests wonder that, if this eminently sagacious and far-seeing warrior, Abercrombie, trusted to the depth of the water alone to keep a drove of Frenchmen, like a drove of sheep, he did not immediately, on dis- covering that they actually intended to fight, sur- render himself and army to them ; but, no ! by the most profound strategy he succeeded in making a brilliant retreat, and escaped, with the remnant of his army — consisting, then, of only about thirteen thousand men — from Montcalm's overwhelming force of thirty-five hundred. Now we near the- spot where once, when May flowers were blooming in the woods, came the martyr priest, the first white man known to have looked upon the silvery water, who named it Lac dit St. Sacrament. A century passed, and in 1757 the brilliant French- man, Montcalm, went south to the conquest of Fort William Henry, and the year following came Aber- crombie to return the compliment, going back again while the flower of the English army lay on the bloody field in front of the old French lines. io6 Lake George. A little elevation at the right, which can hardly be dignified by the name of rhountain, commands Ticon- deroga, lying just over on the other side ; it received the name of '' Mount Defiance " when Burgoyne, from its summit, trained guns on the old fort, thereby compelling its evacuation by the Americans. Toward the north the lake rapidly narrows down to a mere creek, hastening forward to its fall ; and now, as the clay-stained water decreases in depth, the Minnie " feels the bottom," and, hugging down, slowly makes her way through the reeds, describ- ing in her course the form of a reversed letter S, and followed by long outspreading waves that roll up muddily and crowd after as if angry that we were about to escape. Now comes a sharp stroke on the gong down in the engine room ; another, followed by two quick ones, and the wheels stop, then turn slowly back- ward, and with the scuffling of many feet is heard the sound of complaining timber, as the boat grates against the dock, and the " Minne-ha-ha " rests at the foot of the silvery water. APPENDIX HOTELS. Statistics are, literally speaking, very figurative, execrable, but convenient. First come the hotels. j^^^ For further information, see description under proper heading. GLEN'S FALLS. Terminus of the railroad ; nine miles from Lake George. ROCKWELL HOUSE. H. y. & C. L. RockzvcU, Proprietors. Terms $3 per day; $14 to $21 per week. Free coach to and from all trains. no Lake George. AMERICAN HOUSE. George Pardo, Proprietor. Will accommodate seventy-five guests. Terms $2 per day; $10.50 to $12 per week. Free stages to and from all trains. HALF-WAY HOUSE. George Brown, Proprietor. Four miles from Lake George. (Specialty, game suppers). Terms $2 per day. LAKE GEORGE. FORT WILLIAM HENRY HOTEL. 7". Roessle & Son, Proprietors. Five to seven stories high ; three hundred and thirty-four feet in length. Coaches leave, connect- ing with all trains, and all steamers land at the dock. Terms $5 per day ; special rates by the week. LAKE HOUSE. Egbert jf. Gale, Proprietor. Three stories high; three hundred feet long; telegraph and barber shop in the house ; livery stable attached. Coaches connect with all trains, and all steamers touch at the landing. Terms $3.50 per day ; $14 to $17.50 per week. Three cottages at special rates. HARRIS HOUSE. Capt, E. S. Harris, Proprietor. Will accommodate forty guests. Terms $2.50 per day; $10 to $13 per week. Connected with the house are ice cream parlors, where every thing usually found at such places can be obtained. Hotels. hi CENTRAL HOTEL. T. G. Hoyt, Proprietor. Will accommodate sixty. Terms $2 per day. Open all the year round. CROSBYSIDE. F. G. Crosby, Proprietor. Large house and three cottages, situated on the east shore, one mile from Caldwell. All steamboats touch at the dock ; row-boats for the accommoda- tion of guests, and hourly ferry to Caldwell ; will accommodate two hundred. Terms $14 to $25 per week. COOLIDGE HOUSE. JoJui Cooiidge, Proprietor. Situated on the west shore, four miles north of Caldwell ; will accommodate thirty-five. Terms $10 to $12 per week. EAST LAKE GEORGE HOUSE. y. Griffin, Proprietor. Near Sheldon's Point ; will accommodate twenty. Terms $10 per week. TROUT PAVILION, y. M. Cronkhite, Proprietor. Will accommodate eighty. Terms $10 to $15 per week. KATTSKILL HOUSE. R. S. Selfridge, Proprietor. Situated on Kattskill bay, east of Long Island, seven miles from Caldwell ; house new ; rooms large and well furnished ; will accommodate eighty guests. Terms $10 to $15 per week. 112 Lake George. BOLTON. Ten miles from Caldwell. MOHICAN HOUSE. H. W. Wilson, Proprietor. House two stories high ; one hundred and forty feet long ; piazza at front ; will accommodate ninety guests; terms $15 per week; three steamboats and express daily to and from Caldwell ; Happy Lon. Dearstyne's livery near by. BOLTON HOUSE. Norton & Phillips, Proprietors, House three stories high ; verandah on two sides ; will accommodate sixty guests. Terms $12 to $17.50 per week ; three steamboats daily. WELLS HOUSE. Mrs. Wells, Proprietress. Is situated a few rods back from the lake, between the hotels ; rooms large and airy ; will accommodate thirty. Terms $8 to $14 per week. " BRALEY'S." Stephen Braley, Proprietor. Opposite the point of '' The Tongue," a Httle over one mile north of Bolton Landing ; will accommo- date from sixteen to twenty. Terms $10 per week. Twelve miles from Caldwell. FOURTEEN MILE ISLAND HOUSE. R. G. Bradley & Co., Proprietors. Situated at the entrance to the Narrows, twelve miles from Caldwell, at the lowest point at which the excursion boats land ; will accommodate forty. Terms from $10 to $14 per week. Hotels. 113 HIRAM VOWERS' FARM HOUSE. Situated at the base of The Elephant, opposite Vicar's Island ; will accommodate fifteen. Terms $8 per week. HULETT'S LANDING. Philander Hulett, Proprietor. Twenty-one miles from Caldwell. Two farm houses ; situated on Bosom Bay, at the north end of Black Mountain ; will accommodate thirty guests. Terms $8 per week. SABBATH DAY POINT. Capt. Sam Western, Proprietor. Situated on the west shore, twenty-two miles from Caldwell ; farm house ; will accommodate from fifteen to twenty guests. Terms $9 per week. HAGUE. Twenty-eight miles from Caldwell ; excellent fishing near by. PHCENIX HOTEL. y. W. Rising, Proprietor. House three stories high ; double piazza ; will accommodate fifty guests. Terms $2 per day ; $10 to $12 per week. JOHN WHEELER'S TROUT HOUSE Will accommodate fifteen. Terms $2 per day ; for the season, $7 to $9 per week. Specialty, trout dinners. 114 Lake George. FORT TICONDEROGA HOTEL. J. B. Wicker, Proprietor. Situated at the ruins ; specialty, dinners ; will accommodate all who come, at $i each. Here the Champlain boats are taken for the north and south. Day boats going north arrive at 12.45 P- M. ; night boats going north arrive at 10.15 P. M. Day boats going south arrive at 2.30 P. M. ; night boats going south arrive at 2.30 A. M. Excursionists leave Caldwell by Lake George steamer at 7.45, and arriving at the foot of the lake about II A. M., are conveyed across by Baldwin's line of stages, reaching the ruins at noon, and return on arrival of boats from the north. STEAMBOATS. Officers for 1873 — Time Tables, Fares, etc. MINNEHAHA. Captain, J. C. Babbitt; Clerk, C. P. Russell; Pilot, Horace Welch. Leaves Caldwell at 7.45 ; arrives at foot of lake about 11 A. M. ; returns on arrival of passengers by Champlain steamers ; reaches Caldwell at about 7 P. M. ; lands first at the Fort William Henry ; second at the Lake House ; then at Crosbyside. Fare, including stage ride to the ruins, $2.75 ; return same day, $3.00. GANOUSKIE. Captain and Pilot, A. Hulett ; Clerk, H. R. Hulett. Makes daily excursions to the Narrows. Leaving Caldwell at 9 A. M. ; returning at 1.30. Fare, round trip, $1.50. Steamboats and Stages. 115 LILLIE M. PRICE. Captain, E. White ; Pilot, Bur. Phelps. Makes daily excursions to the Narrows. Leaving Cald- well at 3.30 P. M. ; returning at 6.30 P. M. Fare, round trip, $1.50. OWL. Captain, Lee Harris ; Pilot, Lee ■ ; Crew, Harris ; Engineer, Will. Scott. Subject to charter at all times, Terms, $5 per hour ; $25 per day. STAGES. GLEN'S FALLS. Fare, $1.25. Leaves Caldwell to connect with all trains on the R. & S. R. R. Chas. A. Starbuck, Agent. ADIRONDACK. Fare, $1.25. Leaves Caldwell to connect with all trains on the Adirondack R. R. at Thurman. Charles W. Morgan, iVgent. PROBABILITIES 1. A large steamer on Lake George in 1874 or 1875. (Machinery ordered.) 2. Railroad from Glen's Falls. (Bill passed the Legislature.) 3. Railroad from Luzerne. (Bill passed the Leg- islature.) 4. Railroad from Ticonderoga to foot of lake. (Line surveyed.) 5. Spots on the sun discovered, which, it is ex- pected, will soon — in course of a few thousand years — entirely obscure the brightness of that luminary. JUST PUBLISHED, -TICONDEROGA." Containing a history of the Fort — ghmpses of tlie olden time — sundry pleasantries, including an account of what transpired on a trip overland from Lake George to Lake Champlain — with a full page map of the Ruins, showing the walls, underground rooms, passages, etc., as they are at tJie present day, with a full description of the same. Uniform in style and size with '' Lake George," and by the same author. TO BE ISSUED IN 1874. -SUMMER SEASONING.' " The same being a part of what I know, jiave heard, and think about Lake George and the people who live there ; " by S. R. Stoddard. V92 Cp^' '/^Pi^- '^^^ ■0 <^ O^ ■■■■ ::o<^.. v^-y ' ■X'^'V :. -^^o^ .^1 °.i ^r.^,^ ' ^-./ .♦^•V ♦ ».i •ot? P^. '» •* v'V .^^\ t^ •; • o / nO ,^'\ ^ A -5. •^^0^ ■ - . i 1 li a| l|i||||B