ALTERATIONS and How to Make Them As Compiled for the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF RETAIL CLOTHIERS by a Committee Composed of H. J. Roschi G. M. Gray Frank Musgrave D. P. Sullivan Louis M. Rouda and Appointed by the INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF CLOTHING DESIGNERS ©C!J 192898 APR -3 1918 TABLE OF CONTENTS Page Shoulders — Alterations— Extreme I I igh 6 Causes and Effects 1 and 2 High 6 Left High— Right Low 7 Back — One Low 6 To Lengthen 5 Sl< iping 6 To Shorten 5 Square 6 Wide— Small Chest 5 Trousers — Crease Swinging to Inside of Lee - 11 Coat- Alterations at Back Arm 8 Circular Creases Below Front of Scye 8 Crease Swinging to ( hitside of Leg 11 Circular Creases in Front of Scye 8 Cutting in Seat 10 Collar Riding Up 9 Forms and Attitudes 10 Collar Standing Away at Back 9 To Reduce Waist 11 Fullness in Forepart at Bottom of Scye 8 Lengthen Collar 9 Longer Back on One Side, Low Shoulder on Twisted Legs 11 ( >thei Vest— Needing More Spring 7 Standing Away at Side ( if Neck 10 Raise or Lower Collar 9 Standinq- Away from Back of Neck 10 Tight at Top Button 8 Too Much Breast 8 Tight at Bottom Buttons — Loose at Waist in Back 10 Human Form — Toe Large in Front from Waist Down 9 Attitudes of 3 and 4 Too Louse in Front of Scye 9 Alterations THE importance of the alteration department in the retail clothing store can scarcely be overestimated. And the future sales of thousands of dollars of clothing hinges yearly upon the good work or inefficiency of this department. The object of the treatise on the subject of altera- tions is not to enable one to make as many altera- tions on a garment, but as few as possible. If the defect is properly diagnosed in the begin- ning it will help to achieve the above result. If not. Suppose a customer comes into your store and a never-ending series of "corrections" will arise, and purchases a suit. It does not quite fit and an altera- the results will end in disaster. ti< in is necessary. Perhaps two changes are to be Take heed that, if the garment is good, leave made and these alterations are made in a careful and scientific manner and the suit fits well. He becomes a satisfied cus- tomer and no doubt a perma- nent one. And yet how easy it is to reverse the proceedings and not fit him accurately. The necessary result to be ob- tained is the absolute satisfac- tion of every customer and yet this should be done with the smallest amount of alteration. The question of alteration is a scientific one and requires expert knowledge and careful thought. Knowing this the National Association of Cloth- ing I lesigners have prepared a series of articles on alterations for us and these instructive lessons have been featured in our columns for the last few months. One of the big leaks in many stores could be traced to the inefficiency of this department and it is to aid in the reduction of this expense that we are publishing these articles. They were prepared by The Alteration Series /\NE of the big features ^^ of recent months, in the trade papers, has been this series of articles in the Bulletin on the alteration of clothing. Prepared by the Inter- national Association of De- signers it is of valuable as- sistance to the clothier who wishes his alteration de- partment to do the best possible work at a minimum of expense. good enough alone ; do not open a seam if a stretch or shrink with the iron will do the trick ami do not forget your friend, the iron; it will work wonders if intelligently plied. Beware of the ''surgeon" bushelman, he who opens his penknife before looking care- fully for the cause of the gar- ment's defect. The principles i if alterations ma}" roughly be classed as follows : 1. Vertical or upright folds. 2. Horizontal folds. 3. Creases. 4. Fullnesses. Vertical or upright folds are the results of excessive widths. Horizontal folds are caused by excessive lengths. Creases denote shortness between certain points and fullness is caused by contraction or tightness. In other words, fullness at any part usually arises from tightness elsewhere. The sketches on the next page will help to the leading clothing designers of the country and make clear these fundamental principles of cause are the result of vears of careful study and work. and effect. Pagi On, The Fundamentals of the Causes and Ef- fects of Alterations These simple illustrations will suggest remedies for most defects Diagram Four Will cause fullness at B and tight ness between C and D. Diagram Five Creases caused by shortness between two extreme points. Diagram Six i well to know that a hollow edge. A-l! will show fullness on the outer edge. (Diagram A.) Long Diagram Tint Horizontal folds show excessive length. T)if\.&- Diagram Eight When taking a seam from a hollow edge ii is lengthened, but when taking a seam from a round edge it is shortened. The Attitudes of the Human Form Forward Posture Long Back from Waist Up I I i •■ill from II', i: ' D Perhaps the must important feature in connection with the proper alteration of garments is a careful study of the human form. The application of the principles which guide in alterations can only be exercised by this study. "When a customer is trying on a suit or other garment in your store and there are alterations to be made, contrive by all means to keep him away from the mirror. Xote well his peculiarities of form and see that he is standing in a natural position before commencing any operatic ins. And it is nearly impossible to have anyone stand in their accustomed manner while try- ing on a garment before a mirror. Unconsciously they will assume an unnatural position. It is then impossible to mark the necessary changes correctly on the garment. However, after he has relaxed to his normal position and away from the mirror a careful study can be made and the proper changes outlined. In connection with this article eight different types are here pictured. These attitudes will practically cover the majority of fig- ures you will be obliged to conform garments to. Thesefdifferent figures have been drawn especially for this series of articles so that a stud)- of the atti- Page tudes and the difference of each from the normal will be made separately of each figure. No. 1 shows the normal figure. Careful attention should be paid to the straight line drawn parallel with the figure. The distance from this line to the nape of the neck is called the incline measure and determines the degree of erectness or slope. It is hardly necessary to dwell longer on this figure, as tbe only alteration necessary would be the shorten- ing of the sleeves and possibly a few other minor changes. In studying No. 2, which depicts the erect figure, the peculiarities are self-evident. There is less in- cline from the straight line, which naturally tends to make the figure shorter in the back and longer in front. This figure then would require a shorter back. It will also lie noticed that the seat is more prominent and the arms are held farther back, thus making a smaller back width and greater width across the chest. The calves of the legs are also more prominent. A stooping attitude is depicted by No. 3, which is the reverse of erect. This figure requires a longer back, more blade, less across the chest and less seat. Xo. 4 shows a forward posture which would neces- Threi Should,- Ilhh Should,- One Shoulder Low sitate a longer back from the waist up and longer front from the waist down. A back view of the normal figure is shown in No. 5. It clearly illustrates the height of normal shoul- ders. The sloping shoulder and longer neck as de- picted by No. 6, and No. 7 illustrates the high shoul- ders and shorter neck. The form with one shoulder lower is illustrated by No. 8. The advantages of being truly competent to con- form a garment to one of these forms is immediately apparent, since practically every customer entering your store will come under one classification or an- other. And instead of guesswork, substitute efficiency in your alterations. Too many of the older genera- tion of bushelmen were content to make a few stand- ard alterations and let it go at that. But today, with ready-made clothing attaining the standard that it has, with careful attention to details, a perfect fit can be given every customer. This perfection in fitting will eliminate most of the complaints which the retailer is compelled to meet today. Then. too. it will be the means of selling thousands of dollars of extra merchandise in your store. Hidden away from tin- regular routine of the store. the alteration department is most important and here are made many friends or enemies for you daily. The writer is here reminded of an experience of his own. After purchasing a suit recently, several alterations were necessary. The garment was prom- ised on a certain day and on this day I presented the ticket to the clerk, but was told that it was not fin- ished as yet. lint would have to be called for tin- next day. "But can't we send it to your office?" Yes, they could and did. That evening 1 attempted to wear the suit. Only half the needed alterations had been made. This slackness on their part, of course, ne- cessitated another trip to the store. This time I was more successful. But think what a different impression would have been made on me if the time appointed for the garment to be finished had found it completed and ready for me and if on the first attempt to wear it, it had fitted nicely. This instance was not an unusual one with that store. I am sure it is a daily occurrence. I'll leave it to your good judgment if it is conducive to future trade. The different figures illustrated in this article clearly show the attitudes for which provision must be made. Four Wide Back— Small Chest Diagram 9 shows the change necessary for a coat needing more blade, or in other words, greater length from the center of the back to the front of the scye (arm-hole). This customer has a wider back and a smaller chest. If the under-sleeve is short after making the change, work in the back of the scye a little more and press the fullness well away to the blades, as shown by the arrow points. To Shorten Back Diagram 10 illustrates how to shorten the back of a coat. (Oh page three figure 2 was illustrated, show- ing the erect attitude. ) The accompanying sketch 10A shows very clearly the need for alteration. In altering such a garment, carefully drop the back three-quarters to an inch, as shown by the dotted lines and arrow points. Shorten the amount dropped at the bottom. Raise the back notch, as pointed out by the hand in the illustration. Then distribute the extra fullness at the top of the sleeve, caused by raising the back notch. Reduce the blade of the back, as illustrated by the dotted lines, since an erect figure needs a smaller back. To Lengthen Back {Refer to figure on Page Three, showing stooping figure) Raise up the back three-fourths to an inch, and drop the back notch, as pointed out by the hand. Shorten the forepart at the bot- tom of side, the amount the back is raised or face bottom of back with cloth. Redistribute the extra fullness of the under-sleeve at the Lfi»£ 6*cA bottom of the armhole. It may also lie necessary, in order to give more blade, to make in addition to the above changes, the alterations as shown in diagram 9. Sketch 11 A accompanying this diagram 11 illustrates the garment before al- teration. Pagi Fivi Sloping Shoulders (See figure 6 on Page Four) Square or High Shoulders {See figure on Page Four) This may be overcome in some in- stances by padding the shoulders. The proper alteration is shown by the dotted lines. Slope the shoulders and lower the scye, and drop the back and front notches. This change will enable the sleeves to give in easily. If, on the other hand, the shoulders are sloped without sink- ing the scye, the sleeves will be far from being satisfactory. Sketch 13 A illustrates the incorrect fit. Extreme Hiorh Shoulders In addition to changes made on diagram 12, lower the top of the back, as outlined by the dotted lines, making the back of the neck a little wider. Cut down shoulder seam of back, as shown. Hook in shoulder seam of forepart, as illustrated. Straighten the shoulder. (See arrow points, and let out out- lay in the gorge of forepart.) Then take off the forepart, as per dotted lines. This figure, in addition to causing tightness in the shoulders, usually develops a horizontal crease at the back of the neck. If the fault is merely tightness in the shoulder, the changes shown in diagram 12 will usually be sufficient. In extreme cases, and when the crease is evident at the top of the back, as shown in the smaller sketch, the changes illustrated in diagram 13 must be made, in addition to the following: Take out all the padding in the shoulders. Put cut in the canvas two and one-half to three inches down from shoulder end. Invert v's in lining to corre- spond to cuts in canvas. If padding is around the arm's scye remove it from the shoulder. When all is open and free, stretch well with the iron, where marked on diagram 12. One Shoulder Low (See figure mi Page Four) It is usually the right shoulder which is low. Make the changes as illustrated by the dotted lines at the top of the center seam, top of hack, and shoulders. I'mjr SlX One Shoulder Low (Continued from Page Six) A frequent occur- rence in a garment having a low shoulder defect is that it hits on the hip at the same side as the 1< >\v shi wil- der. In this case drop the hack and sink the scye. Shorten the hack at the bottom the amount dropped. Also slope the shoulders at the end of the fore- part. J fitting on the hip on the same side as the low shoulder usually arises from the other shoulder requiring a high shoulder — hence the drag. See sketch showing the defect. Showing Left Shoulder High and Right Shoulder Low Coat Requiring a Longer Back on One Side and Low Shoulder on the Other Make the one shoulder low by the alteration as shown on the right back. Raise back up on left side and center seams as shown by arrow points. Drop inch on left side and take off top of back seam as per dotted lines. Lengthen left side of back at bottom. JZ>A/ 7 The acci impanying sketch was drawn to show the left shoulder high and right shoulder low. The coat would thus shi iw a drag from the left shoulder to the right hip and will have too much spring on the right side in addition to the usual fullness, causedbythelow shoulder at the back of the arm. Another way of al- tering this defect is shown in diagram 17. Coat Needing More Spring Rip side seams to within four inches from top and put back on, short all the way down. Shorten back at bottom of side seam along forepart. In more e x t r e m e cases drop the back (as in diagram 10, page five) in addition to above changes. Page Seven Fullness in Forepart at Bottom of Scye Circular Creases in Front of Scye Too much suppres- sion in the under arm cut. The remedy is ob- tained by reducing at the top of cut. (See diagram 23.) Forward the scye. Too Much Breast Take in at the under arm and. as per dotted line, for- ward the scye, or rip out the drawing threads or tape in front of scye. Open up vest in canvas and press breast Circular Creases Below Front of Scye Deepen and a d v a n c e the scye. If facings are tight or twisted readjust them. To remedy this defect ad- ance the scye as shown in dia- gram 22, or if facings are tight et them out. Coat Tight at lop Button Rip the lining and canvas in front "i scye and open the lining at the fac- ing. Steam up fronts well, stretch and press breast forward to front. Re- adjust canvas and linings. Take as small a seam as possible. For perpendicular fold between blades, take off center seam as per dotted lines. Alterations at Back x\rm This is caused by a sleeve which is imperfectly put in at the back scye. Rip the armhole around the back scye and draw in well with front, pressing carefully to the blade. ( See diagram 9. on page five. ) If sleeve runs up arm when raising to front close the scye at the under arm cut as per dotted lines. Raise the front notch one - half and drop back notch one- half, repitching the sleeves as shown in diagram 24. Page Eight To Raise or Lower Collars To raise collar raise on out- lay back of neck and gorge. If the collar gets too long, shorten it. To lower the collar lower collar at back of neck or gorge and reduce the stand of the collar. If the collar is lowered at the neck without taking oft' stand, the collar will some- times get too short unless the neck point is hooked in one-quarter of an inch. Collars may be made lower or higher without ripping the seams by a judicial use of the iron as suggested To lower 'the collar, stretch well on fall edge of the collar and shrink on crease edge, and to raise the col- lar lay out the collar straight on the crease edge and stretch well. To Lengthen Collar Collar Riding Up Rip off the collar : pass the collar back at the notch and make a wider notch. Dis- tribute the collar fullness where short. Collar Standing Away at Back of Neck Take in the center seam of the back at the top and raise as per dotted lines. Shorten collar amount necessary. tru Take all of the padding out of the shoulders and stretch up well. Hook in neck and shorten top of back as per dotted lines. Stretch bottom edge of collar well. To eliminate "the fall edge on collar riding up. -no-then the edge by stretching well. Vest Too Large in Front From Waist Down Pass the b a c k down. Lengthen the scye of the forepart andshorten vest hack at bottom. Then take away surplus at the side seams at the waist if necessarv. Vest Too Loose in Front of Scye l'ass up the back as per dotted lines and shorten forepart at the side. I'iiiji Sim Vest Tight at Bottom Buttons and Loose at Waist in Back Forward Attitude (S« Small Sketch) Pass the back up as per dotted lines. This will also alter a vest that sticks out and acts loose at the vest opening when the wearer is seated. Vest Standing Away at Side of Neck The vest back is too short at the neck point. Let out the neck point as per dotted lines by put- ting- on a block at the top of the back, as shown by dotted lines. Take off the front of waist and fly and straighten the scat as shown by dotted lines. Trousers Cutting in Seat This is caused by Vest Standing Away From Back of Neck hollowing the under- side too much at the crotch, thus giving too much space be- tween A and B. The remedy is caused by reducing the crotch as out- lined by dotted lines. Pass up the back. Shorten the forepart at sides and take in the back seam at the Take three-quarters of an inch off the underside and top ; shorten the neckstrap as shown by dotted lines. one-quarter inch off topside. This alteration will neces- sitate shortening the legs one-half inch. NOTE. — This change may not appear logical to many but it is the best remedy. The usual thing done is to let out the crotch instead of taking in, with the result that the trousers are worse than before. The only time a crotch should be let out is when the trousers are too tight in the thigh. Page Ten To Reduce the Waist of Trousers If necessary to reduce the waist above one and one- half inches, half the aim unit should be reduce d in the front, and half in the back, as shown by dotted lines. A waist should never be reduced one and one-half at back or bursted legs will and the side pockets and hip pockets will be too much to the back. above ensue forced derside as per dotted lines. The underside should be joined three- fourths to an inch shorter, accord- ing to the degree of twist. Crease Swinging to Outside of Leg See Sirlc/i Two Rip leg seam from the bottom to crotch and resew, keeping the un- derside on short, three-fourths to one inch, according to the degree of twist, and shorten the under- side at the bottom the amount passed down. Twisted Legs This defect often causes much annoyance to a cus- tomer and to the alteration man, yet it is one of the simplest of changes if the proper course is pursued. Crease Swinging to Inside of Leg See Dia. 35 and Sketch One First ascertain if it is caused 1>v the improper joining of parts w h i c h m ust meet at IK itches. The remedy is as follows : Rip the side seam up to the hip notch and resew, keeping under side on short all the way down to the bot- tom. Take oft" un- Conclusion In conclusion let us say that we have endeavored to suggest altera- tions which will cover the most common defects confronted in the every day sale of clothing at retail. We have tried to make every point as plain as possible ; in this way making lengthy descriptions not necessary, having aimed at conciseness. sketch Two The remedies of the defects suggested herein are the result of many years experience and if the prin- ciples laid down are followed they will simplify many problems that would otherwise be very troublesome. The alteration will "stay put," eliminating many comebacks, will create a higher efficiency and reduce the cost considerably. I'niji Elf LIBRARY OF CONGRF<:<: in ° B14 082 670 4 • LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 082 670 4 Conserv»tion Resources Lig-Free» Type 1 Ph 8.5, Buffered