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LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
LETTERS FROM THE 
 FAR EAST 
 
 ALICE PICKFORD BROCKWAY 
 
 Author of 
 " A Trip to the Orient " and " The Noisy Seven " 
 
 "A million a month in China 
 Are dying ^without God'' 
 
 PHILADELPHIA 
 
 THE JUDSON PRESS 
 
 BOSTON CHICAGO ST. LOUIS NEW YORK 
 
 LOS ANGELES KANSAS QTY SEATTLE TORONTO 
 
 ^m^ 
 
^-# 
 
 Copyright, 1919, by 
 GILBERT N. BRINK, Secretary 
 
 Published October 1919 
 
 OCT 29 1319 
 
 Cv;wU^;i 5491 
 

 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Pagb 
 
 The Author Traveling in Japan Frontispiece 
 
 Canadian Rockies 8 
 
 Bird's-eye View from The Bluff, Yokohama i6 
 
 The Bluff, Yokohama i6 
 
 Street at The Bluff, Yokohama. i8 
 
 Torii at Shinto Shrine, Yokohama 20 
 
 Shinto Shrine, Yokohama 20 
 
 Group of Schoolboys, Yokohama 22 
 
 Canal Scene, Yokohama 24 
 
 Chinese Village on the Way Up the River 26 
 
 River Scene , 26 
 
 River Scene 28 
 
 River Boats 28 
 
 Entrance to Temple, Kobe 30 
 
 Waterfall, Kobe 30 
 
 Woosung 32 
 
 Bridge on the Way to Ling Ying Temple, Hang- 
 chow 34 
 
 Images of Buddha Cut in the Rock Near Ling Ying 
 
 Temple, Hang chow 34 
 
 Street in Hang chow 36 
 
 Crowd in Street in Shanghai Waiting to See Fu- 
 neral Procession of Shen Kong Pao 38 
 
 Canal Scene, Hangchow 40 
 
 Kinhzva City Wall 42 
 
 5 
 
6 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Page 
 
 Fu Shin Wang Temple 42 
 
 Front View of Kinhwa Hospital 44 
 
 Stage, and Schoolgirls Giving the Christmas Enter- 
 tainment in Hospital Yard, Kinhwa 44 
 
 Boys' School and Teachers, Kinhwa 46 
 
 Class of Schoolgirls Studying English, Kinhwa. . . 46 
 River Scene, Showing Kinhwa in the Distance .... 48 
 
 City of Lanchi 48 
 
 Home of Miss Ford and Miss Thompson, of the 
 
 C. L M., Lanchi 50 
 
 Lanchi, Showing Pagodas 50 
 
 Resting in Our Chairs on White Cloud Mountain. 52 
 
 Graves on White Cloud Mountain, Canton 52 
 
 Homes of Boat People, Canton 54 
 
 Near Tung Shan, Canton 54 
 
 Christian Cemetery, Canton 56 
 
 New Kung Ye Hospital, Canton 58 
 
 Kindergarten School, Canton 58 
 
 Dedication of Chapel, Sun Chan 60 
 
 Lanchi 62 
 
 Steps Down to the River, and Woman Washing ... 62 
 
 View on the Way to the Caves 64 
 
 Church and Members at Li Tang Hsia 66 
 
 Bridge on Canal Going Up from Hangchow 68 
 
 Bridge Across Canal, Between Hangchow and San- 
 
 japoo — , 70 
 
 Home of Doctor Lung, on Hospital Compound, 
 
 Kinhwa 72 
 
 Hangchow Pagoda and River 74 
 
LETTERS FROM THE 
 FAR EAST 
 
 LETTER NO. I 
 
 IT was 9.30 a. m., on September 15, 191 7, and the 
 journey that we had planned to take six months 
 previous, had really begun. Not without excitement, 
 however; for just as we prepared to alight from the 
 auto at the North Station, we discovered to our conster- 
 nation that the hand-bag containing our pocketbook, 
 railway tickets, and claim checks for our baggage, had 
 been accidentally left behind. 
 
 We looked at our watch and gasped; only thirty 
 minutes to train time. We hastily got ourselves and 
 our hand baggage onto the sidewalk, and said to the 
 chauffeur, " Can you do it ? " 
 
 The reply was characteristic of the man : " I can 
 try." 
 
 We realized what it meant : a distance of six miles 
 each way ; to hunt up the missing bag, and get it into 
 our hands in time. We could see the congested streets 
 
 7 
 
8 LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 that lay between the North Station and Common- 
 wealth Boulevard, with traffic officers stationed at every 
 corner; and our hearts sank. Nevertheless we were 
 not going to say die; so gathering suitcases and um- 
 brellas, we entered the station and consulted together. 
 We did not remember the number of our seats in the 
 parlor-car or of our compartment from Montreal ; but 
 we hastily entered a telephone booth and summoned to 
 our aid Mr. Wheeler, of the Missionary Union, who 
 had purchased our tickets for us. He said he would 
 come at once. We then accosted the man in the bag- 
 gage-room, and explained to him our dilemma. He 
 was most obliging, and allowed us to identify our bag- 
 gage without the claim checks, and checked them with- 
 out the tickets; agreeing that they should be put on 
 board in case the tickets did not arrive in time. We 
 wished we might go as easily as our baggage ; and de- 
 cided to do so, tickets or no tickets ; and having learned 
 the number of our parlor-car seats in our conversa- 
 tion with Mr. Wheeler, we boarded the train and took 
 possession of them. 
 
 We saw Mr. Wheeler racing down the platform, 
 having done some lively sprinting all the way from the 
 Ford Building; and at the same time some one ran 
 along and thrust our bag into our hand ; we could only 
 gasp out that in the haste one of our suitcases had been 
 left in the auto. Some one, we hardly knew who, flew 
 back for it ; Mr. Wheeler had planned to try and hold 
 the train a few minutes, as he happily knew the engi- 
 
LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 9 
 
 neer; but a couple of minutes before the time arrived, 
 our suitcase was thrown onto the platform at our feet. 
 
 The good-bys were necessarily hasty and possibly 
 saved us all the pangs of parting by so being; and we 
 thankfully settled ourselves in our seats as the train 
 pulled out from the station, bound for Montreal. 
 
 The day passed comfortably and uneventfully. Our 
 train was on time ; and at 9.05 p. m. we pulled into the 
 station at Montreal, where we were to change cars. 
 
 Everywhere we were reminded of the war. Canadian 
 soldiers were in evidence at every place ; and when we 
 crossed the line into Canada, an official went through 
 the train, asking the destination of all passengers. 
 
 At ten-fifteen we were again on our way, and after 
 a comfortable night, awoke to behold the beauties of 
 the Canadian scenery. 
 
 In the dining-car the menu was simple, and on the 
 bill of fare was printed a warning against waste and 
 extravagance. The serving of beef and bacon on 
 Tuesdays and Fridays was prohibited, and the using 
 of veal, little chickens and pigs, and young lamb, was 
 forbidden. 
 
 On Sunday morning, September 16, we stopped at 
 a little Canadian town called North Bay. As we had 
 twenty minutes, we left the car for a walk on the 
 platform. Just as we did so, a small company of Sal- 
 vation Army soldiers, drew up near the station and 
 held an open-air meeting. It seemed a fitting reminder 
 that the day was the Sabbath. 
 
lO LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 The following morning we were by the shore of 
 Lake Superior, and for some time enjoyed the beauty 
 of this grand lake. The next day the scenery was not 
 very interesting, being prairie land mostly; but on 
 Wednesday morning, we beheld the Canadian Rockies 
 in all their grandeur. 
 
 All day we reveled in the wonderful scenery : high 
 peaks, deep gorges, rapid rivers. 
 
 We passed two train-loads of Chinese coolies, in 
 charge of English officers, who were on their way east, 
 and thence to France. They were all dressed alike in 
 blue cotton suits, and seemed happy, as with heads far 
 out of the windows they smiled, waved their hands, 
 and cheered as we passed them. 
 
 We were not sorry on Thursday morning, Septem- 
 ber 20, to reach Vancouver, and the end of our trip 
 by rail. Five days had been enough to make us glad 
 to rest. 
 
LETTER NO. II 
 
 ON our arrival at Vancouver, we went to the 
 hotel by that name, the largest in the city 
 and well kept. 
 
 We had not been here long, when we heard a dismal 
 sound, something between a roar and a groan, which 
 seemed to proceed from a brick building in the rear 
 of the hotel near our window. We surmised all kinds 
 of things, but finally learned that the building was 
 the rear of the Orpheum Theater, and that some lions 
 were on exhibition there for a week. As the sounds 
 continued at intervals during the day and night, we 
 were glad when, late Saturday evening, we saw the 
 large iron cages containing the beasts loaded onto a 
 truck and carried away. 
 
 Vancouver is a comparatively new city, and has 
 good buildings and clean streets. 
 
 We realized here, more than we had at home, the 
 results of the war. 
 
 " War bread " was served at the hotel; and people 
 everywhere were warned against waste and extrava- 
 gance. We did not then know how soon our own 
 country would be following in the same steps ; and that 
 what we saw there would soon be common in the 
 homeland. 
 
 II 
 
12 LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 On Sunday morning we attended divine service at 
 the First Baptist Church. It is a fine, gray stone 
 structure, and the service was plain and simple and 
 deeply spiritual. 
 
 The singing of the Doxology was followed by 
 " God Save the King." The minister, an elderly 
 man, spoke with great fervor, on " Prayer," and in his 
 own prayer mentioned with great earnestness " the 
 brave boys who have gone to the front." He said, 
 " Our boys are all going, and soon we will have no 
 boys left " ; but with it all, one felt the spirit of 
 bravery and resignation of those who knew their duty 
 and would pay the cost of doing it. 
 
 Our eyes by chance fell upon a frail little woman near 
 the front, who was dressed in black and looked poor 
 and broken-hearted, and who wiped her eyes sadly at 
 the close of the prayer. We felt she had given her 
 son. 
 
 In the afternoon we visited a Chinese mission con- 
 nected with the Episcopal Church. We found a small 
 Bible class of church-members, taught by one who had 
 been in China and could speak in Chinese. 
 
 A couple of days of rain kept us confined quite 
 closely in the hotel but on Wednesday we called an auto 
 and took a ride through the beautiful park for which 
 the city is noted — a national park, with a circuit of 
 twelve miles. Here are large trees, one being sixty- 
 four feet in circumference, and said to be two thou- 
 sand years old. 
 
LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST I3 
 
 There is also a hollow tree which is almost like a 
 small room inside. 
 
 From here we went to the shore, where are some 
 good beaches for bathing. 
 
 We saw some pretty residences, and visited China- 
 town, which is no larger than Chinatown, New York 
 City. 
 
 Thursday morning, September 2^^ dawned foggy 
 and rainy, and our feelings were worse than the 
 weather; but with all the courage we could command 
 we entered a taxi, and were driven rapidly to the 
 steamer. 
 
 The Empress of Russia lay at the dock, a huge, gray- 
 monster, with her three smoke-stacks rising above 
 high decks. She looked an unwieldy thing; but once 
 we were on board, our feelings changed. 
 
 Our stateroom was the largest and best we had 
 ever occupied. All the furnishings seemed to be de- 
 signed for beauty and comfort combined. Tha lounge 
 was as luxurious as a drawing-room in the finest hotel, 
 and with its open fire of bright coals, made one forget 
 where one was. 
 
 There was a Filipino band on board, which played 
 acceptably, even before we started. 
 
 The custom-house officer who examined the baggage 
 before it was put on board, was most courteous ; and 
 on being assured by us that we had no fire-arms or 
 explosives, and being told by the hotel porter that we 
 were from the hotel, set his mark upon our baggage 
 
14 LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 and allowed it to be put on board without subjecting 
 us to a requirement that it be opened. 
 
 At five minutes to three the gong sounded a warning 
 to visitors to go on shore; and a few minutes past 
 three the gangplank was drawn onto the dock, and 
 we moved slowly away from the pier. 
 
LETTER NO. Ill 
 
 THE Empress of Russia was filled to her full ca- 
 pacity. As usual there were all kinds of people. 
 A goodly number of Japanese, men, women, and chil- 
 dren, returning to their native land ; a large number of 
 missionaries; some English army officers; Filipinos; 
 and many others, we know not who or whither bound. 
 
 One dapper little Filipino, wearing a large wrist- 
 watch somewhat resembling a small clock, made him- 
 self quite agreeable; as did also a young student, a 
 native of the same place, who had been in the States 
 four years taking a medical course, but was returning 
 home, at the beginning of his junior year, to see his 
 sick mother. 
 
 We reached Victoria about 8 p. m., where the boat 
 stopped for about two hours, and we mailed our last 
 letters home. 
 
 So far we had been scarcely conscious we were on 
 a boat or moving at all, it had been so steady ; but we 
 had been in the bay and had reckoned too soon. A 
 paper bought at Victoria announced that a severe gale 
 was sweeping the coast, and we shuddered as we read 
 it. By midnight we were conscious we had struck 
 rough water, and before daylight we were pitching 
 miserably. 
 
 15 
 
1 6 LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 The following day and night it continued without 
 abatement. We went up, up, until we wondered if 
 we were going to the moon ; then down, down, till we 
 tried to estimate how far it was to the bottom. We 
 were sick and miserable; and questioned the sanity of 
 any one, ourselves included, who would leave a com- 
 fortable home for the rolling sea. 
 
 Even one of the stewardesses and some of the 
 waiters got sick, and the doctor admitted that there 
 was a " very heavy sea." 
 
 We were blessed with a wonderfully kind and effi- 
 cient stewardess and cabin-boy; the latter, as well as 
 all the waiters, being Chinese. He told us he had been 
 to sea sixteen years, and didn't get sick now, although 
 he used to. 
 
 The next day, though painfully aware we were pitch- 
 ing, we realized that the water had grown somewhat 
 smoother, and that we were not shipping seas as we 
 had done the day previous. Our cabin-boy also an- 
 nounced that it was ** little more better." 
 
 Sabbath morning, September 30, was clear and cold. 
 We saw the inspection, on deck, of the entire crew by 
 the officers. Afterward we attended divine service in 
 the dining-saloon. The service of the Church of En- 
 gland was read by the captain. The British jack cov- 
 ered the table which served as a reading-desk. 
 
 Early in the morning of October 2, we passed the 
 Aleutian Islands in the distance. They were barely 
 visible, and not many were on deck to see them. It 
 
Bird's-eye View of The Bluff, Yokohama 
 
 The Bluff, Yokohama 
 
LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 1 7 
 
 was much smoother and somewhat warmer; before 
 this it had been very cold. 
 
 Wednesday, October 3, was the day we dropped 
 from the calendar. 
 
 On Friday there were deck sports, followed by a 
 concert in the evening; while Saturday evening there 
 was a dance. 
 
 Sunday we awoke to find a smooth sea and the sun 
 breaking through the clouds which the day before had 
 obscured it. 
 
 Late in the afternoon we heard the news we were in 
 sight of land; and going to the forward part of the 
 ship, we beheld in the distance the purple line of the 
 mountains. 
 
 While we looked, the sun dropped behind the clouds, 
 which were transformed into a glory of gold, rose, and 
 pale blue. It was a magnificent sight, that gorgeous 
 sunset, with the mountains of Japan in the distance. 
 
 It was noon the next day, however, before we passed 
 quarantine inspection and docked at Yokohama. 
 
 The glory of the evening had passed, and a heavy 
 rain was falling, making everything muddy, wet, and 
 nasty. There is really nothing else to express it. The 
 Japanese coolies were wearing their quaint straw rain- 
 coats and carrying big oiled-paper umbrellas. How 
 used we became to this sight you will learn later. 
 
 We were annoyed and delayed for quite a while by 
 reason of not being able to locate one of our trunks ; 
 but finally it was found at the lower end of the dock 
 
1 8 LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 by Miss Munroe, from the Kemendine Girls' School, 
 who had come to meet us ; and we passed through the 
 customs, our baggage being well searched by the 
 Japanese examiner, who dove down into every corner, 
 bringing to light every small package or box. Finally, 
 however, finding nothing worthy of his notice, he 
 passed on to the next victim, and we were at liberty 
 to go. 
 
 New difficulties now arose. The cable we had sent 
 Miss Munroe, before leaving Vancouver, had been 
 delayed a week or so, and consequently she had been 
 unable to secure for us the boarding-place which she 
 had in mind. So as a last resort, we climbed into rick- 
 shaws, and were buttoned in behind a rubber curtain; 
 and thus protected, we made the steep ascent to the 
 Bluff, and sought for accommodations at the Bluff 
 Hotel, only to be informed that there were no rooms. 
 The city of Yokohama was full of Russian refugees, 
 and places were hard to get. 
 
 We decided to rest in the parlor and have tea ; and 
 while we were so doing, the lady who managed the 
 hotel came in. 
 
 Possibly our dejected looks appealed to her; but at 
 any rate, she said there were a couple of rooms which, 
 she had promised to some one else ; but we might have 
 them if we wished. Although they were not altogether 
 to our liking, we needed no second bidding to take 
 them, and found ourselves established in the place 
 before nightfall. 
 
LETTER NO. IV 
 
 THE day after our arrival in Yokohama we spent 
 visiting the shops, and found them most fascinat- 
 ing, with always something new to see. 
 
 It continued to rain. Some one remarked that those 
 who thought Japan was a land of continuous sunshine 
 and flowers, must have judged by the pictures they 
 saw of the cherry-blossoms. 
 
 On Wednesday we visited the Mary Colby School 
 for Girls, or as it is called in Japanese: "^ Soshinjo 
 gakko." 
 
 It is situated a little outside of the city ; and we went 
 first by trolley, and then by rickshaw. 
 
 The roads were bad from the recent rains ; but the 
 sights were interesting. The school is on a hill; and 
 at the foot our rickshaw men stopped, and we were 
 obliged to climb the rest of the way; and some climb 
 it was too. 
 
 We were just in time to see the girls at chapel. 
 They came in two by two, very slowly, singing a hymn. 
 When they were all in, they were seated. After the 
 chapel service was over, they left in the same manner. 
 
 Miss Converse, the principal, kindly showed us 
 around, and we saw the girls in their various class- 
 rooms, and visited the dormitory and other buildings. 
 
 19 
 
20 LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 After lunch with these kind friends, we started 
 back ; and it was raining again. 
 
 We were told that there was a typhoon expected that 
 night, and that it was likely to reach us some time be- 
 tween ten o'clock and midnight. The people were very 
 uneasy on account of a recent typhoon, just before our 
 arrival, which had proved quite destructive. All shut- 
 ters were securely fastened and windows closed. Some 
 persons even did not undress all night, but were in 
 readiness in case of trouble. 
 
 In our little book of " Daily Strength for Daily 
 Needs " this night we read : 
 
 The Lord shall preserve thee from all evil; 
 
 He shall preserve thy soul. 
 
 Under thy wings, my God, I rest ; 
 
 Under thy shadow safely lie. 
 
 By thy own strength in peace possessed, 
 
 While dreaded evils pass me by. 
 
 We wakened in the morning to find that the " dreaded 
 evil " had " passed us by " ; we had no typhoon. 
 
 Friday, October 12, we visited a Shinto shrine, 
 about two miles away. It was situated on quite a high 
 hill, and we had a good number of steps to climb to 
 reach it. 
 
 There were many stone tablets, covered with Japa- 
 nese inscriptions, and we obtained a fine view from the 
 hill. 
 
 We also visited a park or garden, which reminded 
 us of a children's playground at home; and there were 
 
Torii at Shinto Shrine, Yokohama 
 
 Shinto Shrine, Yokohama 
 
LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 21 
 
 scores of schoolboys lined up there, being put through 
 some kind of a drill. 
 
 On the way back we stopped at a small temple. We 
 also saw a man making a wooden idol in one of the 
 shops we passed; and were reminded of the words in 
 Isaiah 44 : 16, 17. 
 
 The next day Miss Munroe called and took us up 
 to Tokyo. It was an interesting ride of about one 
 hour by train. 
 
 Everywhere we saw signs of the destruction wrought 
 by the recent typhoon. 
 
 We visited a celebrated pearl shop first. The 
 Jananese pearls are the cultured pearls ; the people have 
 learned the art of raising them from the oysters. 
 
 After this, we went to a large department store. At 
 the door, every one was obliged either to remove their 
 shoes, or have cloth socks put on over them (if for- 
 eign). We did not wonder, though, when we entered, 
 and saw the floors all covered with beautiful Japanese 
 matting, immaculately clean. 
 
 Here we saw wonderful silks and many attractive 
 things. As there was a lunch-room here, we decided 
 to get our lunch, and were much interested, as we ate, 
 in watching the Japanese women and children who in 
 turn were observant of us. 
 
 After lunch we visited one of the popular temples. 
 This being Saturday afternoon, crowds were in evi- 
 dence. The road leading up to the temple was lined 
 on both sides with little booths, where all kinds of 
 
22 LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 things were on sale. It was the Coney Island of 
 Tokyo. 
 
 We were objects of interest; and whenever we 
 stopped at a booth a crowd immediately gathered. 
 
 The temple was at the end of this road, and there 
 were also many small shrines scattered around. 
 
 We mounted the temple steps and entered. There 
 were various places for worship; and in front of the 
 most central place we saw many people kneeling. Most 
 of them were old people; though there were some 
 young women with little children. Their prayers 
 seemed to be mostly short. They threw a piece of 
 money into the coffer, prayed, clapped their hands to 
 waken the god, and went away. 
 
 There was one god of healing that seemed to be 
 much worshiped. The people come there with their 
 ailments, rub their hands on the idol, already smooth 
 from the oft-repeated friction, and then rub the dis- 
 eased part of their bodies. We saw one girl rubbing 
 her throat, and a woman her leg. 
 
 There were also paper prayers tied to a wire netting. 
 These, we were told, were efficient only when tied on 
 with the thumb and one finger ; which we judged to be 
 quite a difficult task. 
 
 Before another god, the god of the children, we 
 saw many little baby garments left there by childless 
 wives, who were praying for children. 
 
 We passed out of the temple, by the big bronze in- 
 cense-burner, down the steps into the yard. Here we 
 
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LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 23 
 
 saw a number of beggars. One, a man with a long 
 beard, was squatting on the ground, with an emaciated 
 child across his knees, and was repeating something 
 over and over — presumably asking alms. 
 
 One sight we saw on our way home, which illus- 
 trated the difference between the Christian and the 
 heathen. In the train, a well-dressed man was reading 
 a Japanese Bible. That a man should be seen reading 
 the Bible in a public place is rather uncommon, even in 
 America, and we thanked God that the light had begun 
 to shine for Japan. 
 
LETTER NO. V 
 
 OCTOBER 14, being Sunday, we attended the 
 Union Church in the morning. In the after- 
 noon we took a walk and stepped into the Catholic 
 Church on our way home. Here we saw various kinds 
 of people: Japanese, Chinese, and some of doubtful 
 nationality. 
 
 As we came out, we heard the notes of a bugle, and 
 just before reaching the gate of the hotel, we met a 
 long procession of school children, who had been to 
 Yokohama Park. 
 
 We stood while they passed by; and a pretty sight 
 it was. First, came the larger boys, carrying guns 
 over their shoulders; these were followed by the 
 smaller children, boys and girls, down to the very little 
 ones; all happy, laughing children. There were hun- 
 dreds of them. 
 
 A little after 3 a. m., on October 17, we were 
 wakened by an earthquake of considerable violence. 
 The house shook, and the windows rattled; and al- 
 though we knew Japan was noted for its earthquakes, 
 we were decidedly glad when it was over. We felt 
 two others of less violence in the time of our stay. 
 We wished we might have visited Japan at the season 
 of cherry-blossoms and wisteria, as we always see it 
 24 
 
LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 25 
 
 pictured, instead of at the time of typhoons, earth- 
 quakes, and rain. For the rain continued. 
 
 These two extremes in Japan have been graphically 
 set forth in two little poems called " The Optimistic 
 and Pessimistic Versions of Fair Japan." The Op- 
 timistic Version is as follows : 
 
 Oh, fair Japan ; Oh, rare Japan ; 
 
 Thou land of ancient trees, 
 Where lotus-blossoms fringe thy paths 
 
 And perfume every breeze. 
 
 Where lilies bend their fragrant heads 
 
 To kiss thy plashing streams. 
 And dark-skinned Musurves, almond-eyed, 
 
 Wake long-forgotten dreams. 
 
 Thy hills, crown-capp'd with sacred groves. 
 
 Enclose thy gilded shrines; 
 In grottos where the iris blooms, 
 
 Droop sweet wisteria vines. 
 
 Mysterious languor seems to hang 
 
 O'er mountain, plain, and rill ; 
 An unreality of life. 
 
 Does all the senses fill. 
 
 Thine ancient shrines to Buddha blest. 
 
 Glinted with golden fire. 
 Proclaim a soul-sustaining rest. 
 
 And ecstasy inspire. 
 
 Oh ! sweet it is to dwell with thee, 
 
 " Land of the Rising Sun," 
 Where beauty, age, and mystery 
 
 Combine themselves in one. 
 
26 LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 After reading this, try the Pessimistic Version, and 
 choose for yourselves : 
 
 Oh, hang Japan ; oh, dang Japan, 
 
 A land of gnats and fleas. 
 Where noisome odors fill the air 
 
 And float on every breeze. 
 Where men run naked in the streets, 
 
 Wear spectacles for clothes, 
 And old and young, and rich and poor, 
 
 Eschew the use of hose. 
 
 Oh ! land devoid of knives and forks, 
 
 Of tables, chairs, and beds, 
 Where women black their teeth, and shave 
 
 Their little babies' heads. 
 I've had enough, I have no use 
 
 (A quiet New York man) 
 For all this nude simplicity 
 
 Careering round Japan. 
 
 I've had enough of cloisonne, 
 
 Of ivory carvings too; 
 Of ancient, rare, Satsuma jugs 
 
 (Which probably are new) ; 
 I hate the sight of Buddha fat, 
 
 He's too infernal calm; 
 And temples, shrines, red lacquer ware 
 
 And Daimios I damn. 
 
 Boy, bring my clothes up from the wash 
 
 As quickly as you can. 
 Sir Edwin Arnold writes of bosh 
 
 A lot about Japan. 
 I'm shivering cold, I'm wringing wet, 
 
 I've been an idle dreamer ; 
 To Yokohama let me get, 
 
 And there thank God ! a steamer. 
 
Chinese Village on the Way Up the River 
 
 River Scene 
 
LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 2/ 
 
 That afternoon, in company with Mrs. Fisher, one 
 of the missionaries, we attended a bazaar held at the 
 Young Women's Christian Association. 
 
 The rooms were attractive, and the bazaar called to- 
 gether a good crowd of people. Their articles were 
 pretty and attractive. 
 
 Thursday, October i8, was rainy in the morning; 
 but as it broke away just before noon, we decided to 
 take the trip to Kamakura which we had been post- 
 poning in hopes of a fair day to take. When we had 
 finished our early lunch, the clouds had begun to re- 
 turn; but we decided to go just the same. It was 
 about a fifty minutes ride by train. 
 
 Reaching Kamakura, we took rickshaws, visiting 
 first the two temples, one of which is very ancient, 
 dating from the end of the twelfth century. The 
 approach to this temple, which is called the Hachiman 
 Temple, is quite imposing and picturesque. One 
 passes through three torii, and across a pretty stone 
 bridge, and then ascends a long flight of stone steps 
 to the temple itself. On the left of these steps as we 
 ascended we saw a very old icho tree, nearly twenty 
 feet in circumference, and said to be over a thousand 
 years old. This temple is dedicated to the god of war; 
 and in it are many implements of war. 
 
 The other temple, the Hase-dera, contains a great 
 image of the goddess of mercy. This is behind folding 
 doors, and can only be seen indistinctly by the light of 
 a few candles, which the priest moves up and down. 
 
28 LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 It is made of brown lacquer, gilded over, and is thirty 
 feet high. 
 
 The Diabutsu, or big image of Buddha, for which 
 Kamakura is specially noted, we visited last. 
 
 This huge bronze image is forty-nine feet and seven 
 inches high, and ninety-seven feet in circumference. 
 The face is over eight feet long, and the eye nearly 
 four feet long. The circumference of the thumbs 
 is three feet. It is hollow inside, and one can enter, 
 going up nearly to the neck. In the head is a small 
 shrine. 
 
 When we reached the train, rain began to fall ; and 
 by the time we alighted from the trolley in Yokohama, 
 it was descending in torrents. We climbed the muddy, 
 slippery hill leading to the hotel, the rain running from 
 our umbrellas into our shoes. 
 

 ■|BBB|HII|HB 
 
 River Scene 
 
 River Boats 
 
LETTER NO. VI 
 
 ON the twenty-second of October we got our first 
 view of Fujiyama, the sacred mountain of 
 Japan. We had tried many times to see it ; but it had 
 been hidden behind banks of clouds. This was not an 
 altogether clear view of it, for clouds were at the base ; 
 but the snow-capped summit rose above, showing clear 
 against the sky. 
 
 The following day we visited the Bluff Gardens. 
 There were not many flowers in bloom at this season 
 of the year, only a few cosmos; but the lawns and 
 shrubbery were beautifully kept. 
 
 A company of schoolgirls, of about high-school age, 
 were enjoying their recess in the gardens while we 
 were there. How they did run and chase each other 
 and frolic. We pointed to our camera and asked them 
 if we might take their pictures; they nodded and then 
 posed very prettily for us. When we had finished, 
 they laughed and clapped their hands, seeming pleased 
 at what we had done ; then they called " Good-by " and 
 scampered away. 
 
 We enjoyed two blissful days of sunshine, then came 
 a day of clouds, and the next morning the torrents 
 resumed their steady fall. The water ran from the 
 gutters as from a faucet; and some one desiring to 
 
 29 
 
30 LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 catch rain-water, filled a pitcher in about one minute. 
 The following day the weather cleared, and it was 
 uncomfortably warm in the sun. 
 
 Monday we had a most enjoyable lunch with the 
 Fishers; and Tuesday, October 30, the S. S. China 
 reached Yokohama. She came in early in the morn- 
 ing, bringing an addition to our party; and in the 
 evening we all went on board, ready to sail at seven 
 the next morning. 
 
 The day dawned free from rain and the sea was 
 smooth, giving us a comfortable trip to Kobe, which 
 place we reached the following morning about nine 
 o'clock. 
 
 As the steamer was anchored at a buoy in the harbor, 
 we went ashore in a tender, and taking rickshaws, 
 visited first, some of the stores, and then one of the 
 temples ; after which, we went to the home of Doctor 
 Thomson, one of our missionaries, whose guests we 
 were to be for lunch. 
 
 His home is delightfully situated on Kitano Cho, 
 Nichome, on the side of a hill, from which is obtained 
 a wonderful view of Kobe and the harbor, where lie 
 many ships ; while in the rear rise the mountains which 
 make Kobe so beautiful. 
 
 The Thomsons had supposed we were to be their 
 only guests ; but there being a number of missionaries 
 on board the China, quite a few of them found their 
 way to this spot ; and the Thomsons, the most hospita- 
 ble of people, invited them to stay; so that thirteen of 
 
Entrance to Temple, Kobe 
 
 Waterfall, Kobe 
 
LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 3 1 
 
 US sat down to the table, and Mrs. Thomson, like 
 Martha of old, served. As we sat down at the table, 
 one of the unexpected guests remarked, " It must be a 
 great pleasure to Mr. and Mrs. Thomson to have a few 
 friends drop in on them this way." But whether it 
 was a pleasure or not, they certainly made every one 
 feel most welcome ; although we knew neither of them 
 was well at the time. 
 
 After lunch we visited a beautiful waterfall and 
 then returned to the steamer, which sailed at mid- 
 night. 
 
 The following day we passed through the Inland 
 Sea of Japan, the beauties of which are indescribable ; 
 and at sunset we reached one of the most beautiful 
 parts, called " The Narrows." The sea was full of 
 little fishing-boats; and at this place the lights from 
 the different lighthouses glimmered and sparkled in 
 the twilight, like brilliants upon the bosom of the 
 deep. 
 
 We passed through the narrow opening just as 
 darkness settled down, leaving Moji on the left, and 
 Shimonoseki on the right, both gleaming with scores 
 of twinkling lights. 
 
 The next morning we reached Nagasaki, and again 
 went on shore by launch. 
 
 There was little of special interest in this place; 
 but we took rickshaws for a trip to the little fishing 
 village of Mogi, about four and a half miles from 
 Nagasaki. As the way was over the mountains, we 
 
32 LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 had to have two men for each rickshaw, a pushman 
 as well as a pullman. 
 
 The trip was the most wonderful of any we had 
 taken in Japan. We not only obtained a fine view 
 from the mountain, but saw much of the rural life 
 of Japan. 
 
 We passed through many magnificent groves of 
 bamboo, past babbling brooks and trickling water- 
 falls. 
 
 Mogi itself is a quaint little village, with narrow 
 streets and no sign of anything other than Japanese. 
 We saw many fishing-boats of the sampan type. On 
 the way many of the little children laughed and waved 
 their hands, calling out " Ohio " (good morning). 
 
 On the way back we stopped at some of the stores 
 in Nagasaki, to purchase some shell goods, this being 
 the place where most of the tortoise-shell work is done. 
 
f 
 
LETTER NO. VII 
 
 THE following day was Sunday. In the morning 
 we attended divine service. In the afternoon the 
 sea grew rough and continued so until we reached 
 Woosung, early the next morning. Even there the 
 waters were lashed by the wind, and the tender that 
 came out to meet us, bobbed up and down wildly ; and 
 while we were crossing the gangplank to go aboard, a 
 wave of unusual violence struck us in the face and 
 drenched us on one side. 
 
 It was cold as well as windy, and even sitting in the 
 lee of the smokestack we were so uncomfortable that 
 we were glad to seek the surer shelter of the cabin. 
 
 How glad we were to reach the jetty, and there 
 find a welcome from Mr. Stafford, Mr. Kulp, and 
 others ; and in Mr. Kulp's auto to proceed to the mis- 
 sionary home! 
 
 The following morning we visited the school for 
 Cantonese girls, conducted by Mrs. Bryan, where one 
 hundred girls are in attendance. They sang very 
 sweetly, repeated a couple of psalms, and then went 
 through some vigorous calesthenics. 
 
 In the evening we had a call from Mr. Kulp and 
 Doctor Huntley, who explained to us the new Yangtse- 
 poo settlement work, among the mill-workers. 
 
 33 
 
34 LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 On Thursday, November 8, we took the two-fifty 
 (or as it is given in the time-table, 14.50) train for 
 Hangchow, a ride of four and one-half hours. 
 
 The first part, being by daylight, was very interest- 
 ing, as we passed through prosperous farming sec- 
 tions and villages, by canals and cemeteries, and in 
 sight of towering pagodas. 
 
 We traveled second-class, as do nearly all foreign- 
 ers. Our traveling companions interested us, though 
 we attracted but little attention from them. 
 
 We were met at the Hangchow station by Mrs. 
 MacKenzie and her son Kenneth, and after passing a 
 superficial customs examination and giving our card 
 to the inspector, we took rickshaws for the Union 
 Girls' High School, where Miss Peterson, the princi- 
 pal, met us on the steps. 
 
 It is a beautiful compound, surrounded by a wall 
 with gate-house at the entrance. 
 
 We had heard much of the wonderful chrysanthe- 
 mums of Japan; but here we beheld them finer than 
 any we had seen in Japan; while asters, morning- 
 glories, and other flowers were still in bloom, though 
 it was raw and cold, and the following day proved to 
 be rainy as well. However, we could not afford to 
 waste the day entirely, as our time was limited; so 
 taking rickshaws, we went forth on a shopping expe- 
 dition, visiting silk shops, the famous fan shop, and 
 a jeweler's. 
 
 The next morning the sun was shining, and getting 
 
LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 35 
 
 an early start, we crossed West Lake in boats, and 
 proceeded by rickshaws to Ling Ying Temple, a very 
 ancient temple, which has been recently rebuilt. 
 
 Before reaching the temple itself we came to a 
 cave, around which were rocks carved with numerous 
 figures of Buddha. There is also a small hole in the 
 top of the rock which forms the roof of the cave, 
 through which the image of Buddha was said to have 
 fallen. After passing this cave, we ascended some 
 steps and reached the temple itself. 
 
 Here were some very large gilded images of Bud- 
 dha, as well as smaller ones. In a long building, at 
 one side of the temple, there are five hundred idols of 
 various sizes and descriptions ; these also are gilded. 
 
 The ride to this temple was through the country 
 districts and over very rough roads. 
 
 Pilgrims come from long distances to worship here. 
 We saw some women who said they had come one 
 hundred miles; while beggars held out their baskets, 
 entreating us for money. They were mostly either 
 very young or very old. 
 
 At one place where were a number of straw huts, 
 many children ran out and followed us, holding out 
 their baskets and beseeching the " Honorable foreign 
 lady " to " Do a good deed." 
 
 The trip was a wonderful experience. 
 
LETTER NO. VIII 
 
 SUNDAY, November ii, was bright and cold. 
 There had been a frost in the night, but the 
 chrysanthemums in the garden still remained. In 
 the afternoon we visited a number of little Sunday 
 Schools, held in different parts of the city. 
 
 We went first to the place where the schoolgirls, 
 who go out to teach in these schools, assembled and 
 had a short service before going out. The schools 
 themselves were made up mostly of small children 
 from the streets. Probably nearly, if not all, were 
 from heathen homes. 
 
 They began by singing; and in every school we 
 heard that song, which has perhaps been translated 
 into more languages than any other, "Jesus loves 
 me." 
 
 Afterward we went to Mr. Sweet's little chapel. 
 Here were a few grown people as well as children. 
 
 We ended by attending a memorial service for Mr. 
 Sweet, held in the pretty new Baptist church. 
 
 The church was tastefully decorated, and every one 
 was presented on entering with a white paper rose to 
 wear as a badge of mourning, and at the close of the 
 service with a picture of Mr. Sweet. 
 
 This faithful servant of God entered into rest after 
 
 36 
 
LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 2i7 
 
 twenty-seven years of labor for Christ in China. He 
 was the founder of Wayland Academy, and the boys 
 of that school attended in a body; many of them were 
 moved to tears by the words spoken by the Chinese 
 evangelist, who was himself nearly overcome by emo- 
 tion. Near the close of the service a large picture of 
 Mr. Sweet was unveiled. 
 
 After the service we had dinner at Mr. Moore's old 
 house, with Mrs. MacKenzie and Kenneth and Pro- 
 fessor Ewing, and one or two other invited guests. 
 
 Just as we were thinking of going home, we were 
 told that there was a large fire not far away. Accord- 
 ingly we all went. It proved to be quite a disastrous 
 fire, and numbers of families were made homeless. 
 
 We saw them carrying furniture and bedding to 
 places of safety. They had practically no apparatus to 
 fight the fire. 
 
 Monday, November 12, we returned to Shanghai, 
 Mrs. MacKenzie with us. 
 
 Thursday we visited the oldest cotton-mill in China. 
 We saw the raw cotton, and followed it through the 
 entire process, till it was made into cloth and folded 
 ready for market. 
 
 There were many women and children employed 
 there. The women weavers were said to be the best 
 paid of any women in China, receiving forty cents a 
 day. 
 
 When we asked the question as to the minimum age 
 at which children were employed, they replied they had 
 
38 LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 none under six years, which would be equivalent to 
 five years by our way of reckoning. 
 
 After visiting the mill we went to the Shanghai Bap- 
 tist College, where we had tiffin with Doctor and Mrs. 
 White. 
 
 On Sunday, November 18, there was held the largest 
 Chinese funeral ever known in Shanghai. 
 
 The man was Shen Kong Pao, a former high official 
 under the Manchus, who had been dead for two years ; 
 but as is often the custom in China, considerable time 
 had elapsed before the funeral, while the family waited 
 for a propitious day. 
 
 He had been regarded by some ^s the prime cause 
 of the first revolution in China; he was immensely 
 wealthy, being the owner of the Hanyang Iron Works, 
 mills, and railroads; but on account of political trou- 
 bles he had been obliged to mortgage these to Japan, 
 to which country he himself was banished for a num- 
 ber of years, returning to China only a short time 
 before his death. 
 
 The cost of this funeral was two hundred thousand 
 dollars. There were banners and flowers of all de- 
 scriptions, hired mourners, and all kinds of paper of- 
 ferings to be burned at the grave. There were bands 
 of music and mounted escorts, and things that no for- 
 eigner had ever dreamed of. 
 
 The catafalque was a most magnificent affair, 
 covered with red satin, heavily embossed with gold 
 dragons and various other designs. The dragon was 
 
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 1 ;■■ ■.- 11 
 
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 ;I^^Bp 
 
 ti- ■■/. f 
 
 J^^^ 
 
 S 
 
 1 
 
 
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 BH^^fc.^^Wf' ^^-'^^sl 
 
 ^^^'kV 
 
 
 ^^''' ^'" 
 
 :::v'Pi|El 
 
 ^^S ' '-^ 
 
 1' A^'Afal 
 
 ^^^t ■' ^ 
 
 ■I^R v7^ S' ab 
 
 ^^Sm 
 
 ^"^w 
 
 
 
 ^jk 
 
 pw^W^ 
 
 im 
 
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LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 39 
 
 the five-clawed one, which can be used only for the 
 royal family; and the carrying poles were also red. 
 This was the same one that was used for the empress 
 dowager, her son, and Yuan Shi Kai. It was carried 
 by thirty-two carriers, robed in gorgeous red satin em- 
 broidered robes; these bearers being relieved at inter- 
 vals by thirty-two others. 
 
 The next day we saw another funeral, as different 
 from this one as it was possible for two funerals to 
 be — 2L poor man this time. The coffin was an ugly 
 black wooden affair, suspended by ropes from a pole in 
 the hands of two men. A man walked ahead with a 
 Chinese gong for music, and heading the procession the 
 never-absent bunch of spirit money. There were one 
 or two gaudy affairs, intended for ornaments; while 
 the coffin was followed by rickshaws containing the 
 mourners. There were no paid mourners, but the 
 genuine tears were running down the cheeks of the 
 relatives as they wept and wailed. One was an old 
 lady, who we fancied might be the mother; another, 
 who we thought might be the wife; and numerous 
 little children. They had the coarse white cotton cloth 
 bound round their heads for mourning. 
 
 We thought of the contrast, as far as outward ap- 
 pearances went, but knew both men had gone to meet 
 their Maker, and death had made no distinction. 
 
LETTER NO. IX 
 
 ON Monday, November 19, we left Shanghai, 
 taking the train again to Hangchow, and spend- 
 ing the night at the home of Mr. and Mrs. Taylor, of 
 the China Inland Mission. This Mr. Taylor is the eld- 
 est son of J. Hudson Taylor, the founder of this 
 mission. It was truly a joy to meet them, and they 
 did all in their power to make us comfortable. 
 
 In the morning we walked through the streets to the 
 shore, where we took the launch, which was to carry 
 us as far as Tonglu. 
 
 The scenery up this river is beautiful beyond de- 
 scription; the mountains rising on both sides; the 
 river narrow and winding; the fall foliage; the tem- 
 ples and pagodas — all these give a variety and charm 
 seen nowhere else. 
 
 One who has never seen anything of China except 
 the coast cities, has seen but little ; and visiting Hong- 
 kong and Shanghai is in no way seeing China. It is 
 the interior which really shows one China and Chinese 
 life. 
 
 At Tonglu we took the opportunit}^ to go ashore 
 and to walk through the village, as the boat in which 
 we were to continue our trip would not start until the 
 next morning. 
 40 
 
LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 4 1 
 
 Hearing the sound of Chinese music, and following 
 in the direction from which the sound came, we found 
 one of those famous open-air theaters, where plays 
 are carried on at certain times in connection with the 
 heathen worship. 
 
 To us, who were unable to understand what was 
 said, it looked like a lot of clowns performing, as the 
 actors were all dressed in grotesque costumes, with 
 either masks or painted faces, and danced round on 
 the stage, brandishing swords and knives. 
 
 After watching this a short time, we walked through 
 the principal street, lined with all kinds of shops and 
 full of all kinds of smells. 
 
 Very early the next morning, while the stars were 
 still shining, the boatmen, ten in all, were up and start- 
 ing up the river. 
 
 The scenery grew more wonderful and beautiful as 
 we entered that part of the river called the loong; on 
 account of its winding shape like a dragon, which they 
 call by that name. 
 
 We were two days going from Tonglu to Lanchi, 
 where we left the large boat for a smaller one. 
 
 At Lanchi we visited the home of the missionaries 
 of the China Inland Mission, two ladies (one other 
 having died recently) , the only foreigners in the city. 
 
 We took a long walk through the city and back by 
 way of the country, outside of the city wall. 
 
 The following day, about two o'clock, we saw the 
 city of Kinhwa, with its wall and pagoda. Then we 
 
42 LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 passed under the thirteen-arched stone bridge and 
 drew up at the steps where we were to land. 
 
 What a joy, after nearly three years' absence, to 
 walk its streets again, and once more enter the mis- 
 sion compound and feel at home. 
 
 The next morning we visited the large temple called 
 Fu Shin Wang Mieu, where they were holding their 
 special worship, which occurs once in every three 
 years. 
 
 The hideous idols, the yellow-robed priests chant- 
 ing and beating gongs, the pictures of lost souls in the 
 torments of hell, all made us realize that we were in a 
 heathen land. 
 
 On our return our hearts were gladdened by a visit 
 to the hospital, for there we saw the work that was 
 being done in Christ's name for the suffering ones of 
 China. 
 
 In the evening we attended a feast given by one of 
 the Chinese doctors in our honor. It consisted of 
 twenty-five courses. One must attend one of these 
 feasts to appreciate it fully. 
 
 The next day being Sunday, we attended Sunday 
 School and church at the Baptist church, and Sunday 
 School in the afternoon, in the chapel at the dispen- 
 sary. 
 
 After this we took a walk to the spot where the 
 new church is being built, and then to the pagoda, the 
 two extremes — the Christian and the heathen. 
 
 Another day we went to the temple alluded to above. 
 
Kinhwa City Wall 
 
 Fu Shin Wang Temple 
 
LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 43 
 
 There were crowds of people, many of whom had come 
 in from the country. The crowds welcomed us and 
 urged us to eat, one woman even buying candy for 
 us and continually asking us to eat it, which we dared 
 not do. They felt it was an honor for us to come, and 
 seemed extremely friendly. 
 
 They listened as some of the party spoke to them of 
 the gospel, and then asked where they could hear it. 
 
 In the afternoon we sent the Bible-woman to talk to 
 them and to distribute tracts. 
 
 Oh, the opportunities for seed-sowing if only there 
 were more laborers ! 
 
LETTER NO. X 
 
 WE found it most touching, as well as interest- 
 ing, to go down to the hospital dispensary at 
 the hours when the patients came in. It reminded us 
 of the days of old, when the poor, the halt, the maimed, 
 and the blind came to the Master. We longed for 
 power to help them all. 
 
 One day we saw a young girl, with a man who was 
 probably her father. They had come in one hundred 
 and twenty li (forty English miles), which is a long 
 distance where traveling is so difficult. She had some 
 bone disease, and the doctor was obliged to tell her 
 that she could not be cured. 
 
 Our hearts ached for her as the tears filled her eyes 
 when she realized that her journey had been fruitless ; 
 and we wished the Great Physician were again on earth 
 to heal and bless. 
 
 The patients who come to the dispensary, and need 
 further treatment, are sent to the hospital. 
 
 One day three men walked sixty li to ask for help 
 for one of the outstations. It was about to be closed 
 up for want of money to carry on the work. A Chris- 
 tian man from Hangchow offered to conduct meetings 
 and do Christian work there for fifty dollars, Mexican, 
 a year, including house rent; he to find his own rice. 
 44 
 
Front View of Kinhwa Hospital, with Benches in the 
 Yard for the Christmas Celebration 
 
 Stage, and Schoolgirls Giving the Christmas Entertain- 
 ment in Hospital Yard, Kinhwa 
 
LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 45 
 
 He said he would rather work for less money and 
 preach the gospel. 
 
 Two of the Christians in the place had been hiring 
 him for two months and paying him themselves. They 
 all looked very poor. 
 
 When we told them we would help them, one of the 
 men raised his hand and said : " May Jesus bless you 
 and give you his peace. There are many inquirers 
 there and you will help lead them to Jesus." 
 
 Christmas Day dawned fair and cold. A fall of 
 snow a few days previous made it seem really like 
 Christmas. 
 
 After breakfast we went down to the hospital, and 
 in the main ward held a Christmas service. 
 
 All the patients who were able, together with the 
 doctors, nurses, and servants, were assembled there. 
 First was the song, " Hark the Herald Angels Sing," 
 then reading in the Bible the story of the birth of 
 Christ, by one of the doctors; prayer, and a few words 
 spoken by an ex-preacher, who was a patient at the 
 time, and then a beautiful Christmas-tree was brought 
 in. 
 
 It was a wonderful sight to the sick ones ; and they 
 eagerly stretched up their heads to see it. 
 
 There were gifts for all ; and though small, yet the 
 smiling faces and shining eyes showed they were ap- 
 preciated. Probably they were the first Christmas 
 gifts any of the patients had ever received. 
 
 A bountiful dinner was served at Doctor Mac- 
 
46 LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 Kenzie's; and after dinner all of us foreigners had 
 our pictures taken in a group. Our Christmas-tree was 
 at the home of Miss Relyea. As we walked over 
 through the narrow streets, and looked up into the 
 sky, a beautiful star, of unusual brilliancy shone above, 
 so grand, it reminded us of the Star of Bethlehem. 
 
 Before we gathered round the tree, we were sere- 
 naded by the schoolgirls, who stood on the porch and 
 sang Christmas carols. Also ten little ones, wearing 
 crowns, with beautiful stars on them, went through a 
 star-drill. They all carried red lighted candles; and 
 the effect was charming. 
 
 The tree was a genuine pine-tree ; handsomely deco- 
 rated, and well laden with gifts for all. 
 
 We could scarcely realize then we were in China; 
 but as we walked through the Chinese streets on our 
 way home, we became conscious once more that we 
 were in the Middle Kingdom. 
 
Boys* School and Teachers, Kinhwa 
 
 Class of Schoolgirls Studying English, Kinhwa 
 
LETTER NO. XI 
 
 ON December 29 we left Kinhwa and started down 
 the river for a trip to Canton. It was bitterly 
 cold, and we nearly lost our courage and went back; 
 but finally decided to persevere, and reached Shanghai 
 on New Year's Day, 19 18. 
 
 After a stay of six days in this city, days which were 
 all extremely cold — we sailed on the Empress of Asia, 
 January 7, for Canton, via Manila. 
 
 The wind was high when we went on board, but 
 as we had to wait for the tide, we did not sail until 
 three o'clock the following morning; by which time, 
 although there was a little swell on, we managed to 
 keep quite comfortable. The following day we 
 noticed that the discouraging chill had gone from the 
 air. 
 
 We sailed along by the Island of Formosa, which is 
 two hundred miles in length and looks like a series of 
 mountains, rising abruptly from the sea, showing peak 
 on peak, some snow-capped, and some above the 
 clouds. The sea was a deep blue, with whitecaps which 
 glistened in the sun. 
 
 Formosa not only exports large quantities of tea, but 
 also about four-fifths of the camphor used in the 
 
 47 
 
48 LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 world. It belongs to Japan, having been taken from 
 China. 
 
 Three days after leaving Shanghai, where we were 
 shivering with cold, we were uncomfortably warm. 
 White suits appeared on deck, worn by all who were 
 fortunate enough to have them. We were running 
 down by the coast of the Philippine Islands, and Fri- 
 day morning, January 11, we docked at Manila. 
 
 After a visit to the stores, we took an auto and rode 
 out into the country. We saw many of the little native 
 houses, set up on posts, the roofs being thatched with 
 coconut leaves. We visited the military barracks ; the 
 old Spanish part of the city; passed the ancient 
 churches, some of which looked nearly ready to crum- 
 ble to ruins; the old city wall, with its arched gate- 
 ways; the Philippine University, with its School of 
 Medicine; the Hospital, Bureau of Science, and va- 
 rious other buildings. 
 
 The women were gaily, yet modestly attired, in the 
 thinnest of garments. It was all picturesque. 
 
 On account of the heat, however, which we were 
 told was cool for Manila, we were not sorry when at 
 3 p. m. the following afternoon, we steamed slowly 
 away, though feeling some regrets to leave these beau- 
 tiful islands. 
 
 As we passed out from among them, we saw the 
 island round which Admiral Dewey sailed, thus gain- 
 ing an entrance to Manila Bay, which led to our taking 
 these islands from Spain. 
 
River Scene, Showing Kinhwa in the Distance with 
 Arched Stone Bridge 
 
 City of Lanchi 
 
LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 49 
 
 The next day the sea was rough and choppy. We 
 heard there were but eight in the dining-room at lunch ; 
 we ourselves were not there to see. 
 
 There were several distinguished people among the 
 passengers : one a French general, splendid in his blue 
 uniform; another, Lord Montague; and a third, Major 
 Burgoyne, M. P., of the general staff. 
 
 Of the latter we saw considerable. He was a jolly, 
 friendly sort of man, who had met with various ex- 
 periences during life, and had been in the war from 
 its beginning. He was recently from the Italian 
 front, and was on his way to India. He did us many 
 a kindness, the last one being to close a refractory 
 steamer trunk, packed to its fullest capacity, by sitting 
 on it and tugging at the straps. He finally accom- 
 plished it, strapped and locked it; and he was Major 
 Burgoyne, M. P., worth his million. 
 
 We reached Hongkong Monday morning, January 
 14, and were made happy by seeing Doctor Chambers 
 come on board. He had come from Canton on purpose 
 to meet us. We sighed contentedly, and knew our 
 troubles regarding baggage, passport, permit to leave 
 the city, trains, etc., were at an end. He would attend 
 to all ; and he did, making it possible for us to leave for 
 Canton the same day. 
 
 After lunching at a restaurant, we took the ferry 
 across to Kow Loon; and boarded the 2.50 train for 
 Canton, which we reached about 7 p. m. 
 
 On the way our train ran over and killed a man. 
 
50 LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 His poor, mutilated body was placed in the baggage- 
 car and brought to Canton. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Speicher met us at the station in 
 Canton and took us to their home, where we were to 
 be entertained. 
 
Home of Miss Ford and Miss Thompson, of the 
 C. I. M., Lanchi 
 
 Lanchi, Showing Pagodas 
 
LETTER NO. XII 
 
 WE found the weather in Canton delightful, with 
 neither the cold of Shanghai nor the heat of 
 Manila. 
 
 Wednesday, Doctor Lung's family came to see us, 
 bringing fruit and flowers. Thursday, we accepted an 
 invitation to their home to dinner, and afterward 
 visited the ivory, jade, and fan shops. Friday, we 
 saw the boys of the Pooi Ching School drill, and then 
 went to Doctor Chambers' to supper. 
 
 On Saturday, a party of nine of us went up White 
 Cloud Mountain. We took rickshaws to the foot of 
 the mountain, when most of the party made the ascent 
 on foot, but two of us took chairs. It was a steep 
 climb. Had it not been for the evident discomfort of 
 the chair-bearers, we should have enjoyed this method 
 of travel; but when one sees on the backs of the men 
 the cruel marks made by the crosspieces which rest on 
 their shoulders, one's pleasure is somewhat lessened. 
 
 This particular journey was exceptionally hard, 
 being up, up, all the way. There were hundreds of 
 steps. 
 
 The men prepared for the ascent by rolling up their 
 trousers, and some of them stripped naked to the 
 waist. 
 
 51 
 
52 LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 There were three bearers for each chair (although 
 neither of us who rode was heavy), and the men 
 groaned as they proceeded, while their labored breath- 
 ing told us they were not doing it for effect as is some- 
 times the case. 
 
 The mountain is literally one large burying-ground, 
 being covered with graves of an expensive kind, simi- 
 lar to tombs in the side of the mountain. There were 
 also small temples and shrines along the way. 
 
 Nearly at the summit, where our chair-bearers 
 stopped, is a somewhat larger temple ; and living here 
 in seclusion we found a Buddhist priest. Shut away 
 from the world, he devotes his time to the worship of 
 Buddha. He was very kind to us, inviting us to come 
 in and have tea. He also broke off some pink roses 
 from a bush growing by his door, and presented them 
 to us. The view from the mountain is grand. 
 
 The descent was accomplished with more ease to the 
 men, but less to us ; for we had to brace ourselves in 
 our chairs constantly, to keep from being thrown for- 
 ward, out of our chairs. 
 
 Along the roadside, between the mountain and Can- 
 ton, were crowds of beggars of every description, who 
 ran along beside our rickshaws, holding out their 
 baskets, and asking for money. 
 
 One of these brought before us very clearly the 
 scenes in the Bible and of the Great Physician. The 
 man was a leper. Most of his fingers were gone, and 
 he ran up to us crying as did the lepers of old, " Have 
 
'^4.. 'w^JB 
 
 ^■P"- ^f^y/i 
 
 
 In 
 
 1 
 
 KM*" 
 
 Wk^T^^'' ' ""J 
 
 tw^-rt^ 
 
 i;3 
 
 Wm 
 
 *^. 
 
 Resting in Our Chairs on White Cloud Mountain 
 
 Graves on White Cloud Mountain, Canton 
 
LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 53 
 
 pity." How we longed to be able, as did Jesus, to put 
 forth our hands and heal him. 
 
 Monday morning, January 21, we went into the city 
 in company with Major Burgoyne (who had come up 
 to Canton for a few days), Doctor Chambers' son 
 Willie, and Doctor Lung as guide. We visited the old 
 execution ground, where so many ghastly scenes had 
 been enacted, though the place is no longer used for 
 this purpose. They preserve, however, some bones 
 and skulls in large jars to show as relics. From there, 
 we went to see the old water-clock, said to be thirteen 
 hundred years old ; but it was disappointing when we 
 saw it, after having heard so much regarding it. 
 
 After this, we visited the Temple of Hell, now some- 
 what dilapidated, but still used for worship, as we saw 
 worshipers even then, bowing low before the burning 
 joss. There are also many fortune-tellers in this 
 temple, and in the rear, a restaurant and a theater. 
 
 Saturday, we went by launch down the Pearl River, 
 about eight miles, to the military station of Whang Po, 
 where we saw several Chinese gun-boats anchored. 
 We went ashore at the village of Sun Chau, just oppo- 
 site, which had recently been swept by fire, and was 
 almost wholly destroyed. The people were doing their 
 best to rebuild. We were especially saddened to see 
 the only little chapel in the place in ruins, with no 
 immediate prospect of its being rebuilt. It was a joy 
 to us to be able to devise plans which set on foot the 
 rebuilding of this house of worship. 
 
LETTER NO. XIII 
 
 ON Sunday we walked out a little way to what is 
 called " The City of the Dead." Here we saw 
 a fairly well-preserved temple, about five hundred 
 years old, in which were numerous gilt idols in a good 
 state of preservation ; while beyond, were many small 
 rooms, in which were placed coffins of the wealthy 
 dead, awaiting a lucky day for burial. Some of these 
 coffins had already been there several years, and would 
 probably remain as much longer as the priest in charge 
 thought he could get money from the relatives to 
 pay the monthly rental of the room. 
 
 In front of these coffins were placed the offerings 
 of food and wine, with the burning joss or small oil 
 lamp. 
 
 We saw one coffin which had been brought from 
 America, containing the body of a man who had died 
 more than two years previous. In front of the coffin 
 was a large portrait of the dead man. 
 
 We picked up a number of things which had been 
 discarded in a room where the burial had already 
 taken place. These included a vase, which had held 
 the joss-sticks, old wine-cups, some ornamental lions, 
 and an ancestral tablet. The priest said we might 
 have them, and washed them for us. He was very 
 54 
 
Homes of Boat People, Canton 
 
 Near Tung Shan, Canton. 
 Native Houses 
 
LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 55 
 
 courteous, showing us about and answering all our 
 questions. 
 
 From this place of heathen worship and supersti- 
 tion we returned to the Baptist church, while the con- 
 gregation were singing " The Great Physician," and 
 listened to a fine sermon in Cantonese by Mr. Ander- 
 son, and thought of the wonderful difference between 
 the heathen and the Christian. 
 
 In the afternoon we walked down to the river-bank 
 and were rowed across the river in a little native boat, 
 in company with Miss Coffee and four of the Chris- 
 tian schoolgirls, to attend a little Sunday School held 
 for the children of the boat people. 
 
 The little room in which it was held might have 
 been twelve by fifteen feet, with a still smaller one 
 opening out of it where the older children were gath- 
 ered together. There were forty present, not counting 
 several babies who were strapped to the backs of chil- 
 dren hardly large enough to carry them. 
 
 We have seldom seen such neglected looking little 
 ones. Many of them were barefoot ; nearly all, dressed 
 in rags and very dirty ; but they listened as the bright 
 Christian schoolgirl talked to them, and sang very well 
 " Jesus Loves Me." 
 
 After the meeting we went into one of the homes of 
 these boat people, built on piles over the water. Of 
 course the majority of these people live in their little 
 boats by the river-bank ; but a few of the more fortu- 
 nate have little houses built in this way. 
 
56 LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 This particular home was the abode of the mother 
 and sister of one of the smartest and brightest Chinese 
 girls we have ever known, now a dentist in San Fran- 
 cisco, who built this home for them when on a visit to 
 China, a few years ago. It was very neat and clean 
 inside. 
 
 The girls who went with us on this trip seemed very 
 zealous, one of them talking about the gospel to the 
 woman who rowed us back. 
 
 February 11 was Chinese New Year. We took a 
 trip into the city, all the way by chair, and found it 
 most interesting. The streets had all been thoroughly 
 cleaned, and the houses as well. Strips of red paper 
 inscribed with Chinese characters, were posted over 
 all the doors. Every one was out, dressed in their best. 
 We passed many Chinese houses, and looking in could 
 see the New Year's decorations. 
 
 In many instances the rooms were small, cheerless, 
 and dark; a large number of them being without win- 
 dows or any outside light, except what was ad- 
 mitted through the front door which opened onto the 
 narrow, dark street. Some of the better homes, how- 
 ever, had a sort of skylight overhead. 
 
 The rooms were decorated with tinsel and paper 
 ornaments, and sometimes a Chinese lily in full bloom 
 added to the attractiveness of the interior. Also a 
 small table was generally seen, set with fruit and can- 
 dies; while joss was burning before the idols, which 
 always occupy the conspicuous place in a heathen home. 
 
LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 57 
 
 The air was fragrant with the odor of burning joss 
 and sandalwood, and a great improvement to the odors 
 which we found filling the air the time previous, when 
 we had visited the city and the streets were being 
 cleaned for New Year's, and the accumulated filth of 
 a whole year was stirred. 
 
 We saw New Year's callers entering the homes, and 
 both visitors and hostesses would bow and shake their 
 own hands, saying, " Koong Hei " (Happy New 
 Year). 
 
 We also saw the hopelessness of the poor and help- 
 less in a heathen land ; for while all these gaieties were 
 going on in the homes, the beggars still begged in the 
 streets ; and among others, we saw an old man, clothed 
 in rags, lying by the side of the road, shaking with 
 palsy, and holding out his poor withered hand, crying 
 to the passers by to " Have pity " ; but the crowds 
 moved on, apparently untouched by this most common 
 sight. No poorhouses, asylums, or free hospitals for 
 the unfortunate ones in China! Nothing but a beg- 
 gar's life and a beggar's death, and no hope beyond ! 
 
LETTER NO. XIV 
 
 WE had several New Year's callers; eight on 
 New Year's Day. But the New Year's celebra- 
 tion lasts almost a month, although the first week is 
 the most important. 
 
 We had accepted an invitation from Doctor Cham- 
 bers to spend the remainder of our stay in Canton with 
 him; and were therefore brought into closer touch 
 with the different schools, which were all nearer his 
 house. The boys' school, called the Pooi Ching School, 
 was almost directly opposite, across the street; and 
 our hearts were frequently stirred by hearing the 
 Christian hymns which these boys sang in their daily 
 services ; and the old familiar hymn, " There is a Foun- 
 tain filled with Blood," never sounded sweeter than 
 when sung in Chinese by these boys. 
 
 While we were there. Doctor Chambers spent a week 
 at Ying Tak, conducting special revival meetings ; and 
 although we were not privileged to be present, our 
 hearts were made glad by the things he told us on his 
 return, of these meetings so full of interest. 
 
 One or two incidents are well worth recording : 
 
 One man, of about forty years of age, heard the 
 gospel for the first time at these meetings, and was 
 deeply touched and truly converted. At the close of 
 
 58 
 

 New Kung Ye Hospital, Canton 
 
 Kindergarten School, Canton 
 
LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 59 
 
 the service he went forward and told Doctor Cham- 
 bers he knew he had been listening to the truth, and 
 wished to join the " Jesus church." Doctor Chambers 
 baptized him with twelve others before he left — three 
 women and ten men. 
 
 One was a young lad of sixteen, who had already 
 suffered persecution for Christ's sake, having been 
 beaten and abused by his uncle, but had stood firm. 
 He took great interest during these meetings in trying 
 to lead others to Christ. 
 
 In addition to the thirteen who were baptized, there 
 were about thirty inquirers. 
 
 On Saturday, February 23, we went on the launch 
 to Sun Chau, the place already referred to, where fire 
 had destroyed the village; but this time it was to at- 
 tend the dedication of the little chapel in which we were 
 so interested, and which had been built on the site of 
 the one that had been burned. 
 
 They had worked until ten o'clock the previous night 
 to finish the preparations, and it was as neat and pretty 
 as a little street chapel of that kind could be. 
 
 To a foreigner, it was exceedingly simple; but to 
 the people of this village it was beautiful, and the little 
 benches which served for seats were all they expected. 
 
 We were led to the front of the room by the Bible- 
 woman, and seated in a comfortable chair facing the 
 audience, and in front of the platform. 
 
 The room was crowded, many standing round the 
 door. 
 
6o LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 The services began with singing " Beulah Land," 
 which was followed by prayer, and then singing " Gos- 
 pel Bells." Doctor Chambers made the principal ad- 
 dress, and we were called on to say a few words. Two 
 Chinese preachers from Canton also spoke briefly ; then 
 came more prayers, and the Doxology was sung in 
 closing. 
 
 As we lingered in the room after most of the peo- 
 ple had left, a woman with a baby in her arms came 
 and looked in. The baby was broken out with small- 
 pox. She was but a few feet from us; but one con- 
 stantly meets this in China. It only serves to make 
 one realize more than ever the wonderful protecting 
 power of the heavenly Father. 
 
 February 25 we went to an elaborate feast given in 
 one of the restaurants, in honor of the engagement of 
 Doctor Lung and Miss Hoh, the daughter of an army 
 physician. She herself was a teacher in the girls' 
 school. There were four tables of guests, each seating 
 eight people, and every one seemed in gay spirits, the 
 engagement being most pleasing to both families. 
 
 It was one of the most beautiful evenings we saw in 
 China; being the fifteenth of the Chinese month, and 
 consequently full moon. 
 
 On March 9 we attended a noon wedding at the 
 Tung Shan Church, the bride being one of the school- 
 girls. 
 
 She was brought to the church in a chair covered 
 with flowers, and walked down the aisle led by a 
 
Dedication of Chapel, Sun Chan 
 
LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 6 1 
 
 Chinese woman and followed by the bridesmaids. 
 The bridegroom met her in front of the pulpit. We 
 could not see her face, as it was nearly hidden by the 
 pink silk which served as a wedding-veil. 
 
 The service began with the singing of a hymn by 
 the congregation ; and concluded with " All the Way 
 My Saviour Leads Me." 
 
LETTER NO. XV 
 
 ON Sunday we witnessed a baptismal service at the 
 church. There were several candidates: one a 
 man of middle age, with a kindly happy face; the 
 others, girls from the school. 
 
 A little more than a week later we learned that one 
 of these dear girls had been taken out of the school 
 and also cruelly beaten by her mother, because she 
 had become a Christian. One of the teachers thought 
 the mother did not know of the girl's baptism, as she 
 had said she would kill her if she were baptized. How 
 much some of these native Christians have to suffer 
 for the faith! We could but think of the old hymn, 
 so applicable in these cases : 
 
 Through floods and flames, if Jesus lead 
 I'll follow where he goes. 
 
 March 26, with sad hearts, we bade good-by to 
 Canton and those who had become so dear to us there, 
 and taking a boat, proceeded to Hongkong, where we 
 arrived the following morning, in a drizzling rain, with 
 a high wind blowing. 
 
 We shuddered as we thought of what awaited us, 
 when we should leave the shelter of the harbor; but 
 62 
 
Lanchi 
 
 Steps Down to the River, and Woman Washing 
 
LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 6^ 
 
 our passage was engaged. So we boarded the S. S. 
 Columbia with what bravery we could mustei, and 
 sailed before noon. 
 
 We went to the table for tiffin, but left hastily, and 
 were glad to keep in the seclusion of our cabins for 
 a while. 
 
 We arrived at Shanghai on Saturday, the day before 
 Easter ; on the Lord's Day we not only attended church 
 in the morning, but in the evening were privileged to 
 hear Miss Dora Yii speak in the Y. M. C. A. She has 
 an earnest, consecrated spirit, and no one can esti- 
 mate the amount of good she is doing for her own 
 people. She spoke in very good English. 
 
 We remained twelve days in Shanghai, in doubt 
 whether to sail for home or return to Kinhwa, and 
 finally decided to do the latter, arriving there on April 
 15, after a beautiful trip up the river. 
 
 We had never taken this trip in the springtime 
 before, and were charmed with the beauty of the 
 flowers, especially the azaleas, which covered the moun- 
 tainsides. 
 
 The following Friday we took a trip by chair to 
 the caves, about twenty-five li from Kinhwa. 
 
 The scenery here, as we ascended the mountain 
 where the caves are located, was grand beyond de- 
 scription. Here again we saw the pink and yellow 
 azaleas, and also the purple wisterias. A rapid stream 
 ran down the gorge, and various waterfalls added to 
 the picturesqueness of the scenery. 
 
64 LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 The day was hot, but the cave, when we reached it, 
 delightfully cool. 
 
 It was as large as many a city church, and con- 
 tained a pool of water. On one side were some rudely 
 carved images of Buddha and the remains of the joss 
 which had been burned before them. 
 
 Here in the coolness, away from the sun and heat, 
 we rested and had a picnic dinner. 
 
 Some of our party went on farther up the mountain, 
 to another cave; but as it was impossible for the 
 chairs to go any farther, and the climb was a hard 
 one, we remained with some of the others in this 
 place. 
 
 It was a long trip, but we would not have missed it. 
 
View on the Way to the Caves 
 
LETTER NO. XVI 
 
 SUNDAY, May 5, we took a chair ride of about 
 twelve li, to our oldest outstation, that is Li Tang 
 Hsia. 
 
 The day was perfect, being bright and sunny, but 
 not hot. Our way led out of the city, across the stone 
 bridge which spanned the river, into the country. We 
 passed fields of waving wheat and barley (the winter 
 crop), and of the young tender rice just growing up 
 out of the mud and water (for rice always has to be 
 planted in water) ; passed wild roses, morning-glories, 
 buttercups, and many other flowers. The southern 
 mountains rose before us in their grandeur, and the 
 sky was blue above. 
 
 After about two hours, we drew near to the place; 
 which fact was made known to us by the pastor's com- 
 ing out to meet us : a very common custom in China 
 when one is expecting guests. 
 
 This church was started about fifty years ago, and 
 has something like forty members. 
 
 The building is old and dilapidated; the room in- 
 side about sixteen by twenty feet, with mud floor and 
 walls, the latter having been whitewashed. For seats 
 there were narrow benches without backs, somewhat 
 resembling our sawhorses. The platform at one end 
 
 65 
 
66 LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 of the room tipped perceptibly if one stepped on one 
 side of it. 
 
 Before the service we had the congregation come 
 outside, and took a picture of them, which delighted 
 them as well as us. 
 
 The preacher is a good-looking young man, a 
 graduate of Shanghai Seminary, but not ordained. 
 He and his family live in rooms adjoining the chapel. 
 The roof to these rooms leaks so badly that when it 
 rains hard, there is not a dry spot where the family 
 can sit, and recently the water stood inches deep on the 
 kitchen floor. One of the children has had pneumonia 
 twice as a result of living in this damp place. The 
 pastor receives a salary of seventeen dollars, Mexican, 
 a month. The church-members have been praying for 
 ten years for a new church (which would also include 
 a home for the pastor). 
 
 The church-members are very poor, as one would 
 know to see them; yet they raised fifty dollars last 
 year, which must have meant self-denial to them. 
 Many of them are old, and some have been tried in 
 the fire, standing firm through the Boxer uprising of 
 1900. 
 
 Even lately the pastor's life has been threatened, and 
 one of the members whom we saw that day, a Chris- 
 tian of only three years' standing, has been bitterly 
 persecuted and threatened, because he refused to iden- 
 tify himself with the heathen life of the community 
 by carrying a lantern in the parade to the idols. 
 
LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 6y 
 
 He said, " You can kill me, but I will not carry the 
 lantern." 
 
 In the afternoon the Lord's Supper was celebrated. 
 As the preacher is unordained, they can only have the 
 ordinance when some one comes who has authority to 
 administer it. On this occasion it was Mr. Dickie, of 
 the C. I. M. of Kinhwa, our own evangelistic worker 
 having had to return to America on account of his 
 wife's health. We had a full day with the three ser- 
 vices, and returned to Kinhwa, tired, but feeling repaid 
 for our effort by what we had seen. 
 
 We might add here, that a letter received from the 
 pastor of this church, in the summer, reported six 
 baptisms, a number of inquirers, and the marked pres- 
 ence of the Holy Spirit. 
 
 On June 4 we once more left Kinhwa, taking the 
 boat for Hangchow. There was a good-sized party 
 of us, and we were en route for Mokanshan, to escape 
 the heat, of which we had already had a sample. This 
 trip was one of the most uncomfortable we had in 
 China, owing largely to the numbers of fleas and other 
 unmentionable insects, which made the night hideous 
 and sleep well nigh impossible; but we remembered 
 that " Even this shall pass away," and it did ; for we 
 found ourselves once more at Hangchow, where we 
 took another boat for a night's ride on the canal, the 
 first part of the way being on the Grand Canal. 
 
 Early in the morning we reached Sanjapoo, where 
 we took chairs for Mokanshan. 
 
68 LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 It was a pretty ride, the first part of the way being 
 across the plains, where we saw rice-fields and groves 
 of mulberry-trees; passed through several Chinese 
 villages and by little shrines for worship. 
 
 We reached Mokanshan about noon, in the rain, 
 and found ourselves above the clouds. 
 
LETTER NO. XVII 
 
 THE next morning we looked out on a sea of 
 clouds below us, with here and there a mountain 
 peak visible above; but when the clouds cleared away, 
 the scenery was wonderful. Some one has compared 
 Mokanshan to Switzerland; and the former did not 
 suffer by the comparison. 
 
 June being the rainy season, however, we had little 
 else, for it rained almost incessantly. We thought we 
 had never seen so much rain in our lives before, unless 
 it was in Japan. Much of the time we lived above the 
 clouds literally, if not in spirit. 
 
 With July came the heat, and we wondered how 
 the people lived at all in the plains below, when it was 
 so withering even there on the mountain. 
 
 There was a July Fourth celebration which nearly 
 everybody attended. 
 
 Mokanshan is the summer home of many of the 
 missionaries, who have cottages there, and in this way 
 try to escape the prostrating heat. We therefore met 
 many of these charming people. 
 
 For amusements they have fine tennis-courts and a 
 swimming-pool. The walks are extremely pretty, be- 
 ing through the bamboos, but not easy, on account of 
 being up or down steps nearly all the way. There is 
 
 69 
 
yo LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 very little level walking. We spent the months of 
 June and July, and half of August here, leaving on 
 August 14 for Shanghai. 
 
 After a sleepless night, we rose at four o'clock in 
 the morning, and were in our chairs at five. The first 
 hour, descending the mountain, it was cool and beauti- 
 ful. Down, down we went, through groves of bam- 
 boo and pine, wondering what would happen if our 
 bearers should stumble; but we braced ourselves in 
 our chairs as the men tripped down the steps at a lively 
 pace, and reached the plains in safety. 
 
 The sun was up by this time, high enough to be felt, 
 as we emerged from the sheltering coolness of the 
 woods, and the rest of the way it was hot ; but we made 
 the trip in good time, two hours and a quarter to 
 Sanjapoo. 
 
 Here we took a little launch, and for four hours 
 were crowded into a small cabin. It was warm, but 
 there was a good breeze, and we reached Hangchow 
 about noon. 
 
 Here it was hot indeed; but kind traveling com- 
 panions did all in their power to make things easy for 
 us, and we were soon on the train, bound for Shang- 
 hai, which we reached about 7 p. m. 
 
 We were cheered on looking out of the car window, 
 when we drew into the station, to see the smiling face 
 of Mr. Sun, the porter from the Missionary Home, 
 who was down to meet us, and proved himself, as he 
 had often done before, most kind and helpful. 
 
LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 7 1 
 
 As the sun had set, it was cooler; and though we 
 felt the heat, there was a good breeze stirring. 
 
 Shanghai seemed almost like home; and the next 
 day brought us home mail and happiness; also the 
 meeting with Mr. King of Canton, in Shanghai to 
 meet his wife, who was expected to arrive from Amer- 
 ica in a few days. 
 
 One evening we attended a band concert at the 
 Public Gardens, and found it comfortable, with a cool 
 breeze blowing; but the following day was blistering 
 hot, as even the residents of the city admitted; and 
 from that time until we sailed for home, four weeks 
 later, the weather was the worst of the whole summer. 
 
 One evening we took a ride down Nanking Road. 
 It was at the close of an unusually hot day, and the 
 streets were thronged with people. Most of them were 
 Chinese, who were dressed in white. 
 
 The buildings were lighted with electric lights, and 
 some of the larger ones handsomely illuminated, with 
 rows of Chinese characters made with the lights. 
 
 Every evening the sidewalks were filled with people 
 who came out from the little shops : men, women, and 
 children, seeking a little coolness after the heat of the 
 day. Little children were often seen sleeping on their 
 mothers' laps, or in the arms of an older brother or 
 sister ; men slept in chairs, regardless of the passers-by; 
 and every one seemed trying to get a little comfort 
 after the prostrating heat. 
 
LETTER NO. XVIII 
 
 SUNDAY evening, August i8, we visited the Rick- 
 shaw Mission, in company with Mr. Matheson, its 
 founder. Until he started this work, six years ago, 
 nothing had been done for these needy and neglected 
 people, who are perhaps treated more unkindly than 
 any other class. 
 
 The hall where the meeting was held was crowded, 
 and men were standing on the sidewalks. 
 
 Their faces were a study, and they seemed interested 
 in what was said. When he asked all who wanted to 
 know Jesus to manifest it by rising, the great majority 
 of men near the front, and some farther back, were 
 on their feet. 
 
 The mission is never closed day or night, and the 
 men may sleep there if they have no other place. They 
 are also invited to come when in need of any kind ; and 
 many a one has been helped into a hospital through 
 this agency. 
 
 There are also meetings for the wives of these men 
 and Sunday Schools for the children. In all, there are 
 two of these halls, and one hundred and twenty dif- 
 ferent places where the gospel is preached in the open 
 air. Many men have been converted, and some of 
 these are now preachers. 
 72 
 
LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST J^i 
 
 Mr. Matheson calls it the " Hard-working Men's 
 Mission " ; and the name is an appropriate one. 
 
 On August 26 we met the steamer from Canton, 
 which brought the prospective bride, whose engage- 
 ment feast we had attended while in that city. As the 
 bridegroom could not reach Shanghai until the follow- 
 ing day, the duty of caring for her fell upon us. 
 
 A married sister brought her up, and we welcomed 
 her gladly. 
 
 The wedding took place on the twenty-ninth at the 
 Missionary Home. It was a simple, but pretty affair; 
 being a combination of Chinese and foreign usages. 
 
 The bride was dressed in white, quite contrary to 
 Chinese custom, as this is their color for mourning; 
 and although her dress was cut in Chinese style, she 
 wore a foreign veil, and carried a bouquet of flowers. 
 
 The double parlors had been prettily decorated with 
 cut flowers, and at 5 p. m. the strains of the wedding- 
 march sounded on the organ, and the bridal party 
 entered. It was our privilege to lead the bride to the 
 place of ceremony, where she was met by the groom. 
 
 The Chinese pastor of the Cantonese church mar- 
 ried them, and at the close of the ceremony simple 
 refreshments were served. 
 
 On Sunday, September 15, one day behind schedule 
 time, we left Shanghai on the S. S. Colombia, of the 
 Pacific Mail Line, and began our homeward journey; 
 with mingled feelings of joy and sadness. Our jour- 
 ney had been a wonderful one, and the thoughts that 
 
74 LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 
 
 we might never again see the places and people that 
 had become so dear to us, caused us pain; but home 
 was ahead ; and we looked with joy to what lay beyond. 
 
 We had good weather and a comparatively smooth 
 sea till we reached Kobe, but stormy weather between 
 there and Yokohama. The rest of the way it might 
 have been called good. 
 
 At Honolulu we had a most enjoyable day, being 
 met by our friends Mr. and Mrs. George, who enter- 
 tained us royally, and took us in their auto to the 
 principal places of interest, the city of Honolulu, the 
 Pali, and beautiful Waikiki Beach. The- day passed all 
 too quickly, and we were again on board ship, and 
 bound for San Francisco. 
 
 On the evening of October 9 we saw the lights of 
 the city sparkling like stars; we came to the Golden 
 Gate, while the search-lights were continually being 
 thrown across the waters. It was a beautiful sight, 
 which we shall long remember. 
 
 It was too late to pass inspection that night, so we 
 anchored until morning. But there was little sleep for 
 any one; and by three o'clock in the morning people 
 were astir. Our journey by water was over, and we 
 once more found ourselves in the homeland. 
 
 While in China, we saw some verses written by 
 Henry Van Dyke, and set to music by some one in 
 Japan. They were called " Home Thoughts from 
 Europe." We substituted some verses of our own 
 composing, using the same chorus, and called them 
 
Hangchow Pagoda and River 
 
LETTERS FROM THE FAR EAST 75 
 
 " Home Thoughts from the East." We give them 
 here in closing these letters : 
 
 It is fine to cross the ocean to countries far away, 
 From Honolulu Island, to Yokohama Bay, 
 To see Mount Fujiyama, with its peak of glist'ning snow, 
 And Japan's wealth of flowers in the valley far below. 
 
 (Cho.) But it's home again, and home again; America for 
 
 me; 
 My heart is turning home again to God's country ; 
 To the land of youth and freedom, beyond the ocean bars, 
 Where the air is full of sunshine, and the flag is full of stars. 
 
 We count ourselves most happy to visit ancient shrines ; 
 To behold the cherry-blossoms and the fair wisteria vines ; 
 To see colossal Buddha and mount some temple stair. 
 To see paintings, silks, and ivories, and costly cloisonne. 
 
 (Cho.) 
 
 We are charmed with ancient China and its mountains, high 
 
 and grand, 
 Which remind us of the mountains in our own dear native 
 
 land; 
 With its miles of open country, its pagodas towering high. 
 From brilliant turf beneath our feet, to blue and vaulted sky. 
 
 (Cho.) 
 
 There are things beyond description in these lands beyond 
 
 the sea; 
 In these Oriental countries, charming to you and me ; 
 But their glories are forgotten, their memories abate, 
 At the sight of San Francisco and the glorious Golden Gate. 
 
 So it's home again, and home again ; America for me ; 
 My heart is turning home again to God's country ; 
 To the land of youth and freedom, beyond the ocean bars, 
 Where the air is full of sunshine, and the flag is full of stars.