A ° 
 
 
 ^ 0' %. 
 
 ,4 0, . ^ 
 
 
 ^ , >o ^ 
 
 *° <£ %> 
 
 
 O 
 
 * ^ 
 
 r ^CP 
 
 
 A o^ 
 
 
 
 ^ ^. 
 
 
 *-^j » / I J^- 1 <§>• * K O 
 
 \ T * ° A 
 
 C\ "^ 
 
 
 •o ^<: ^> . 
 
 
 J? 
 
 4 • • S 
 
 
 
 .& . i ' » ■<*> 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 
 '"' 
 
 
 *^o< 
 
 w£ * *\ 
 
 
 A 
 
 
 
 ,> 
 
 «^ 
 
 ,.o v c 
 
 *> 
 
 v v 
 
 f> ' 
 
 " », 
 
 
 
 . ^ 
 
 j^> 
 
 
 
 *^ 
 
 / 
 
 sr*' 
 
 
 
 
 
 r^<7 
 
 ,^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 y^> 
 
 / 
 
 *o 
 
 
 
 
 
 »V 
 
 a *^ 
 
 
 
 A 
 
 
 <r 
 
 
 
 J 
 
 ,0 
 
 -V 
 
 -2> 
 
 A 
 
 
 •*»■ 
 
 
 V *' 
 
4 O 
 
 " " • * ^o 
 
 
 
 ^o. 
 
 ^"V 
 
 O 
 
 „4q, 
 
 
 <\ 
 
 
 : W 
 
 
 
 v 
 
 < o 
 
 > 
 
 
 oK 
 
 
 V 
 
 
 A ^ 
 
 
 ^0^ 
 
 ;-.V^/iSK-, ^;M-V^ 
 
 
 vs- 
 
/ RJwhtiyihtàxtfr L" Yuwi -a 
 
 -/ Dumbartûii < 'asiié 
 
Style-0 !-Graphic Pe 
 
 ! 
 
 r4 ^Hv' 
 
THE LIBRARYJ 
 OF CONGRESS 
 
 WASHINGTON 
 
 Entered according to act of Congress, February 17, 1881, by J. S. McCLA Y, in the office of the 
 Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 
 
 m 1 
 
 (1 
 
 Phoenix Printing Co. 
 
 > Printers. 
 
 Fowler. Miller & Co. ) 
 
 Win. H Lockwood, Electrotyper 
 
 Haktford, Conn. 
 
 Artist, 
 E U G E N E P E A R L , 
 New Yoik & Boston. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Preface, 5 
 
 On the Ocean, 7 
 
 Mal de Mer — Description of Steamer — Lovers' Tete-a-Tete. 
 
 Glasgow, 13 
 
 River Clyde — Arrival in Glasgow —Cathedral — Lakes — Castles — Edinburgh Castle 
 — Holyrood Palace — John Knox's House — Kenilworth — Shakspeare's Home — Arri- 
 val in London — Spurgeon. 
 
 London, 25 
 
 Sight Seeing Condensed — Fogs — Tower — Crystal Palace — Tussaud's Wax Works 
 — Underground Railway — Steamers on the Thames, etc. 
 
 Paris, 29 
 
 Across the English Channel — Days and Nights in Paris — Cathedrals — Gardens 
 — Monuments — Palaces — Arts — Jardin Mabille— Students' Ball — River Seine. 
 
 Lucerne, 41 
 
 By Rail — Thorwaldsen's Lion — Organ Concert — Ascent of Rigi, and Sunrise — Gla- 
 ciers and Ice Caves — Bear Town. 
 
 Fribourg, 49 
 
 Suspension Bridges — Concert — Mixed Linen — Curious Pantaloons — Swiss Lakes 
 — Geneva. 
 
 Chamounix, 52 
 
 From Geneva to Chamounix — Mountain Climbing — -Mont Blanc — Ice River — Cre- 
 vasses — Dangerous Paths — The Tête Noir — Gorge du Trient — Over the Simplon. 
 
 Milan, 60 
 
 Arcade Victor Emanuel — Cathedral — Borromeo — Leonardo da Vinci — A Celebrated 
 Singer. 
 
 Genoa, 62 
 
 Italian Royalty— Street Sprinkler. 
 
 Pisa, 65 
 
 Fleas — Leaning Tower —Arrival at Rome. 
 
iv Contents. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Rome and Naples, 67 
 
 Churches — Antiquities — Lectures. NAPLES — Ascent Vesuvius— Street Scenes — 
 Donkeys — Pompeii and its Obscene Frescoes — Return to Rome— Capuchin Con- ' 
 vent — Paintings. 
 
 Florence, 76 
 
 Grape Shot — Incidents — Immense Domes — Graves of Mrs. Browning and Theodore 
 Parker — Monuments to Michael Angelo, Dante, Galileo and Machiavelli — Ufizzi 
 Gallery — Roman Catholic Ceremonies. 
 
 Venice, 80 
 
 Sailing in Gondolas — Palaces — St. Mark's Church, Clock Tower, Campanile and 
 Square — Marino Falieri — Paper Money. 
 
 Munich, 85 
 
 Verona — Brenner Pass — Sight Seeing in Munich — Royal Brewery — Art Exhibition. 
 
 Heidelburg, 92 
 
 Tun — Black Forest — Picturesque Castle — A Historical Church. 
 
 Weisbaden, 93 
 
 Wise Deductions — Peculiar Translations — Palaces — Museums. 
 COBLENTZ, 96 
 
 Down the Rhine — Cable Towing — Ferries — Ehrenbreitstein — Pontoon Bridges. 
 
 Cologne, 99 
 
 Churches — Relics — Virgins. 
 
 Amsterdam, 102 
 
 Snub Nosed Punts — Pile Driving — Royal Museum — More Churches — Zoological 
 Gardens. 
 
 Hague, L04 
 
 A Sabbath— In the Woods— Paul Potter's Bull and Jan Steen's Oyster Feast- 
 Peculiar English — Exasperating Names. 
 
 London, L05 
 
 Across the North Sea— Windsor Castle — Zoological Wanderings — Masonic Hall. 
 
 Glasgow, 111 
 
 Fast Train — Remarks and Practical Information — The Temperance Question A- 
 broad — Incidents — Ocean's Freaks— Fun on Shipboard — Custom House Authorities. 
 
 Bad French, 119 
 
 â.ppendix. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 Gentle and Genteel Reader : 
 
 Preface. " Front face ! " Naturally faces are in front, and this Preface, although 
 written last, is in front. " The first shall be last, and the last shall be first." The 
 following chapters on European travel were written while abroad, with a Stylo- 
 graphic Pen, (no charge is made for advertising that useful article,) hence its pe- 
 culiar title. The " Funny Pencillings " the artist is responsible for. The results 
 of his artistic pencil are Pearl's, every one of them. He has undertaken to illus- 
 trate these pages, and the engravings are from sketches made on the spot. Most 
 undertakers are en-gravers of another-type, but in no case has the sense or inten- 
 tion been buried in his designs. Such an amateur of the beautiful, whether in 
 nature, art, or — woman, could hardly fail to em-W/*-ish whatever he might choose 
 to reproduce. When Mr. Pearl's " Craio " holds the mirror up to nature "she 
 must blush at the praise of her own loveliness." 
 
 The author speaks, or literally writes, of the artist's labors first, for he (the 
 author) is trying to regain his modesty, which commodity he got nearly out of while 
 abroad. 
 
 Having had a good time generally ; in fact a hugely, royally good time in partic- 
 ular, both on the " Big Pond " and beyond it, it would be cruel not to tell the world 
 all about it. Silence and cruelty being against the conscience of the writer, he 
 puts forth these left-handed (literally left-handed) letters, written " currente calamo" 
 amid the ups and downs of travel, boisterously while rocked in the cradle of the 
 deep, rapidly on the rail, diligently on diligences, loftily amid Alpine peaks, roman- 
 tically amid moss-clad ruined castles, reverently in the long drawn aisles, or be- 
 neath the mighty dome of minsters and cathedrals, profoundly in catacombs, in 
 void wastes and in the city full, rosily at peep of day, or dreamily at the bedside, 
 when the candle flickeringly expired and weary fancy flagged amain. 
 
 The most of these words once appeared in well-known journals, but the said 
 sheets considered the simple acceptance of the articles an honor which carried with 
 it sufficient compensation. Between honor and toast the author prefers the toast. 
 

 vi Peefage. 
 
 These "Salmagundi" are therefore served up as a hash. The fastidious reader may 
 taste more grit than grace in the dishes, and must not expect the flavor of Attic 
 salt, or the aroma of Falernian wine. Between viewing Nature, admiring Art and 
 noting the freaks of Cupid, the writer found little time to woo the muses. What- 
 ever sins may be laid to the charge of his unpretentious pen, it is innocent of 
 rounded periods and of classic polish, and as for long-drawn morals or sermons the 
 reader is referred to his pastor. " What is writ is writ ; would it were worthier.'' 
 
 To those contemplating a tour through Europe ; of money take sufficient quan- 
 tity ; also lay in a large stock of homebred principle. The Franks did not invent 
 virtue, neither did the Teutons institute the New England Sabbath. Secure a 
 theologian who draws his dogmas from Epicurus, Tyndall, etc. His sermons will 
 exorcise the god of sleep, if not the demon of doubt. For amusement and para- 
 dox, I commend you to a dogmatic dominie, who doubts whatever is revealed, and 
 denies whatever is divine. If of a plethoric habit, visit Naples. No leeches are 
 needed there. The mosquitoes of Naples, pert, saucy, sleepless, pugnacious, rav- 
 enous, poisonous, insatiable, innumerable, will deplete and phlebotomize you so 
 effectually in one night, that you will scale Vesuvius as light as a feather. Go, see 
 and swelter, and the author hopes you will enjoy it as well as he did. 
 
 These words of introductory gravity and wisdom cannot be concluded without 
 earnestly recommending the European tour to such of our youug friends as are 
 afflicted with " angina pectoris." True, some of us had a run of bad luck, but 
 many were effectually cured of heart disease (mostly contracted while en route), 
 and are said to be exceptionally happy in their matrimonial relations. Let us 
 wish them all " bon voyage." Some came home bachelors. The author con- 
 doles with them, " et id omne genus" who are still compelled to slumber on "alone 
 in their glory," without benefit of clergy or of curtain lectures. 
 
 If we did little good in Europe, we did no harm. We regret we could not stay 
 over to help Gladstone tame that bristling Land League in verdant Erin, and to 
 adjust the imbroglio between Greece and the Sultan. 
 
 Considerate reader, please overlook the shortcomings referred to, and also take 
 into consideration that it is easier to discuss Turkey at home. If the reader is 
 dissatisfied, be charitable, for the author assures you he meant well, if he didn't 
 know any better. J, S. M. 
 
 Hartford, Conn., February, 1881. 
 
ON THE OCEAN, 
 
 Greenock, Scotland, July, 1879. 
 
 We are with the " Tourjee " party on board the steamer Anehoria 
 of the Anchor line. I see by The Tribune that nearly six hundred 
 cabin passengers leave for Europe to-day. Left dock at 12.15 
 P. M. After leaving Sandy Hook we struck into a heavy sea. 
 The passengers nearly all succumb to mal de mer. Prof. D. is 
 taking a sure remedy, (oxalate of cerium,) but looks very serious. 
 Fred, is squaring accounts with Neptune. His face looks like 
 alabaster. The Prof, at last gives out and goes "down below."' 
 Dinner at 5 P. M. About forty, with strong resolution, try to 
 eat; but when soup is brought, at least twenty say the air is 
 ''bad" in the saloon, and start for some more convenient place. 
 Mr. P. orders bacon and greens, and when it is brought, says : 
 "I am not so hungry as I thought," and suddenly leaves. A 
 young lady next me at the table, with large blue eyes, orders 
 "roast beef rare." When it is set before her, her large eyes grow 
 larger, her face whitens, and with handkerchief to mouth she re- 
 tires in convulsions. 
 
 I laughed when experienced parties advised me to take an ulster. 
 The air is cold and the fog dampens everything so that I am 
 very glad the old ulster is at hand. Sunday, June 29th, I was 
 awakened at 4 A. M. by some lout of a fellow crying out: "I 
 say, steward ! steward ahoy ! bring me a glass of water with ice 
 in it!" I wish the steward had thrown him overboard. We 
 were promised amusement in the shape of " choral concerts," but 
 the only sounds so far are too guttural to be called musical. They 
 come from the depths, however, as all music should. About one 
 hundred take breakfast to-day. 
 
8 Style-0 î-Gteaphic Pens And 
 
 The writer bears oceanic grief without a qualm, and, in spite 
 of the fact that the ship is rolling like a porpoise, he thanks for- 
 tune and a good constitution that his appetite is so good that the 
 Anchor Line is likely to lose money on feeding him. 
 
 His hill of fare this morning consisted of beefsteak with fried 
 potatoes, ham and eggs, dry hash, two eups of coffee and et ceteras. 
 
 One tiling I noticed coming down New York harbor. Many 
 people drank freely of ginger ale, and so far as I remember every 
 one of them was afterward seasick.* If people would keep trash 
 out of them they would get along better. 
 
 Sunday, 29th — At noon we are two hundred and ninety-five 
 miles out. One-half the company have not yet recovered. Had 
 the usual devotional exercises and some faint attempts at singing. 
 
 Monday, 30th. — We have made three hundred and eight miles 
 since yesterday, making six hundred and three out of New York. 
 
 July 3. — Nothing of great moment occurring since the 30th, I 
 make no memoranda. Last evening we had a concert. There is 
 a great amount of musical and dramatic talent on board. A song- 
 was given by the " Mal de Mer Troupe," which vas exceedingly 
 funny. We have also several fine- pianists and the best harpist in 
 America. The last mentioned has played several evenings to the 
 enjovment of us all. His name is Aptomma's. 
 
 The following description of the latest steamer built for this 
 line, shows what efforts are made to make the "ocean ferry" safe 
 and comfortable. 
 
 The •■ Furnessia," which is the largest vessel ever built in Eng- 
 land, save the " Great Eastern," is one of the modern type of ves- 
 sels whose size, speed, and comfort make a passage across the 
 Atlantic a much inure easy and agreeable task than was the case 
 in times gone by. The other members of the fleet of vessels 
 owned by the Barrow Steamship Company are the "Anchoria," 
 "Bolivia," " Circassia," " Devonia," "Ethiopia," " Victoria," and 
 "California," and all these are at present employed in the Anchor 
 
 *E. B. Treat, of New York, has lately published a small work 
 by the celebrated Geo. M. Beard, M. P., which gives a course of 
 treatment by which seasickness may lie entirely avoided. 
 
Funny Pencilling^ in Europe. 
 
 uî^^ Sws.^^ 
 
10 Style-0 !-Graphic Pens and 
 
 Line from Glasgow and London to New York. Of these vessels 
 the " Anchoria," "Circassia," and " Devonia," were built at Bar- 
 row, and they have not only given very great satisfaction to the 
 owners and to those who have voyaged in them, but they have 
 won for themselves a reputation second to none enjoyed by steam- 
 ers engaged in the Atlantic service. The " Furnessia," is much 
 larger- than any of the other steamers owned by the Company, 
 and it is likely she will prove a worthy addition to this fleet. Her 
 dimensions are: length, between perpendiculars, 445 feet; beam, 
 44 feet 6 inches; depth of hold, 34 feet 6 inches; her gross ton- 
 nage is 5,500 tons, and her displacement when drawing 26 feet of 
 water, 9,900 tons. She will be brig rigged and have two funnels. 
 Her engines are of an inverted, direct-acting, surface-condensing 
 type of 600 nominal and 3,800 indicated horse power. The high 
 pressure cylinder measures 49 inches, and the low pressure cylin- 
 der 100 inches, the length of stroke being 5 feet 6 inches. The 
 working pressure of steam will be 90 lbs. to the square inch, and 
 the steam will be generated in four double-ended boilers, having 
 in all 24 furnaces. The diameter of the propellor is 20 feet 6 
 inches. The engines will befitted with Rogers' patent exhauster, 
 and special fire engines and emergency pumps, for pumping water 
 out of the ship in case of collision or accident, will be provided. 
 All the pumps will be connected with the bilges, and will be avail- 
 able to pump from the bilges, except to feed pumps. She will be 
 fitted with steam steering gear, steam winches, steam cranes, &c., 
 and when she arrives at Glasgow, Messrs. Bell and Coleman's re- 
 frigerating apparatus, for keeping meat fresh, will be introduced. 
 The " Furnessia," is to be fitted not only as a high class pas- 
 senger steamship, with accommodation of the most superb char- 
 acter for three hundred cabin passengers, and thirty second-class 
 passengers, and good airy and comfortable quarters for about 
 one thousand steerage passengers, but she will also have a large 
 cargo carrying capacity. 
 
 They take in coal at Glasgow in quantities sufficient to last 
 both -ways. Fuel is cheaper there, and as they generally have a 
 light load to New York, it also serves for ballast, There are 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 11 
 
 four hundred carcasses of beef on board, packed in an immense 
 refrigerator, so that we may, and probably shall, eat American 
 beef at Glasgow and Edinburgh. 
 
 "We are now pretty well acquainted with one another. We 
 have several clergymen on board, so that we are having a jolly 
 time. "We find the clergy handy to have around when we want 
 to make up a party to play euchre. There are also a great many 
 .school ma'ams here and they arc extremely intelligent. 
 
 Among the sixty male passengers the Masonic fraternity is 
 well represented, there being an average of one in three who 
 have traveled East. So betwixt clergymen, school teachers and 
 Freemasons, we have plenty of topics to discuss. The topic which 
 seems to prevail after dark is that always interesting one of love. 
 Last evening I saw a young gentlemen trying to kiss a girl back 
 of the wheel house at the stern. I do not know whether he ac- 
 complished his pleasant task or not, for I turned my eyes away, 
 having a fellow feeling for him, also remembering the golden rul< > : 
 " Do unto others as ye would they should do unto you." 
 
 July 4th. — We had a grand jubilee to-day. A large calithum- 
 pian band was organized. The instruments were mostly bur- 
 rowed from the cook, and consisted of tin pans, fog horns, etc. 
 The captain kindly ran up the Stars and Stripes, amid the cheers 
 of the crowd, and " music by the band." Then we had some 
 " Fregle of Edom " speeches, and closed the day by singing patri- 
 otic hymns, including " God Save the Queen." The latter song, 
 of course, drew out a speech from Capt. Hedderwick, the com- 
 mander of the ship. 
 
 July 7. — One sound has become very familar to us in the night. 
 It is the cry of the watch on deck as they ring the ship's bells, 
 " All's well." During the second night out, when nearly all were 
 sick, my roommate heard the cry and in the midst of "deathly 
 throws," blurted out. "What an infernal liar; there's nobody 
 well down here." 
 
 We sighted land at 6 P. M., and will land at Moville during 
 the night, arriving; in Greenock at 8 o'clock to-morrow morning. 
 
12 
 
 Style-0 !-Gkaphic Pens and 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 13 
 
 GLASGOW. 
 
 Passing up the Clyde in a small steamer wè saw Dumbarton 
 Castle and the monument to Henry Bell, the first steamboat 
 builder on the river. At Bowling a large number of ships and 
 other floating craft were laid up, and the oldest steamboat in ex- 
 istence. Lord Blantyre's Castle is on the right bank going up. 
 The River Clyde is an artificial stream, and large numbers of 
 dredges are at work keeping the channel clear. At high water 
 ships drawing twenty-one feel can go up to Glasgow. We saw 
 many fine looking cattle browsing on the grass or lazily chewing 
 their cud in the adjacent meadows. We also saw the fourth 
 largest steamer in the world named the Orient. She has four 
 masts. We saw several iron steamers in process of building at 
 several yards. 
 
 In the afternoon, after registering at the Grand Hotel here, we 
 strolled out to the Cathedral, which was began in the year 1 L75. 
 The stained glass is from Munich and is very beautiful. We also 
 visited the Necropolis, near by, where stands a monument in 
 memory of John Knox. Still strolling, we came to St. George's 
 Square, on which stand monuments to the Prince Consort, the 
 Queen, and Nelson. In front of the Royal Exchange is an eques- 
 trian statue of the Duke of Wellington. 
 
 At dinner, we came across a new custom. The proprietor re- 
 Fused to serve the food until grace was said. One of our clererv- 
 men helped us out, so we see they are good for something besides 
 card playing, which I alluded to in my first letter. 
 
 In this latitude the days are so long that a great deal can be 
 seen after dinner, which is generally served about G p. m. Day- 
 light lasts until 10 p. m., so this evening we saw West End Parle, 
 
14 StYLE-0 J-GrRAPHIC PENS AND 
 
 on which are planted some heavy guns, captured at Sebastopol, 
 also a steam beam engine built by James Watt. 
 
 July 9. — Left by the Caledonian railway for Balloch (twenty 
 miles) at 7.40 A. M., thence by steamer over Loch Lomond to 
 Inversnaid (twenty-one miles), thence by coaches (five miles) 
 to Loch Katrine, over which (seven and one-half miles) a little 
 steamer runs, connecting by coaches with rail at Callander (nine 
 and one-half miles) ; from Callander to Stirling Castle (fifteen 
 and three-cpiailer miles). Of course we did the Castle thoroughly. 
 Here Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned, and the guides show 
 you where she used to sit, looking through a hole in the wall ; 
 also the place where Q,ueen Victoria stood when she visited the 
 place a short time ago. I ought to have stated that the water 
 used in Glasgow comes from Loch Katrine, and is forced over the 
 mountain by means of pumps. The water is first class. As an 
 evidence of this the engineer of the steamer which carried us 
 over says the boiler in the boat is twenty-five years old and is 
 good yet. Returning to the castle it may be stated that it was 
 the birth-place of James II and of James V, who was crowned 
 here; and the favorite residence of James IV. Here James II 
 killed the Earl of Douglas, and the guide pointed out the window 
 from which the lifeless body was thrown. There was also a 
 secret passage under the castle through which the King used to 
 u;o out into the fields below. The battle field of Bannockburn is 
 also pointed out. Greyfrairs Church is near by (built 1494) and 
 is a good specimen of Gothic architecture. In it James VI was 
 crowned (1567), John Knox preaching the coronation sermon. 
 We saw the old divine's pulpit and the table he used for the com- 
 munion service. The old Royal Gardens at the foot of tin; cliff 
 are still preserved in the shape in which they were at the time of 
 James V. Across the valley on the opposite side from the gardens 
 is seen among other mountains Abbey Craig, five hundred and 
 sixty feet high, surmounted by the Wallace monument, two hun- 
 dred and twenty feet higher. 
 
 From Stirling we traveled to Edinburgh by rail, where we 
 arrived at Waverly station at 8.15 P. M. Our hotel (Royal) is 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 
 
 15 
 
 THE SCOTT MEMORIAL, EDINBURGH. 
 
16 Style— !-Graphic Pens and 
 
 nearly opposite the Scott monument on Princess street. It is 
 amusing to note tlie customs and peculiarities both of the people 
 here and also the members of our own party. One of us asked a 
 native " what time do your stores close?" He looked puzzled, but 
 finally said, "Beg pardon: Stores? stores'? Oh! you mean 
 shops, yes shops, they close at all hours, sir." We are learning 
 to address strangers, and each other, with the customary " Beg 
 pardon." The butter here is not salted, and it is distasteful to 
 many of us. The table d'hote is a great cause of discomfort. 
 Think of being eighty minutes at table as we were at Glasgow. 
 To an American business man, who is in the habit of bolting his 
 food in fifteen minutes, it seems a great waste of time. The long, 
 days may have some influence on the people by giving them the 
 idea, that there is "plenty of time," (a favorite expression.) 
 
 July 10. — < )nr party is now divided into four sections, with two 
 conductors to each section. J am, in common with most of the 
 party, very much disappointed in the arrangements made for us, 
 happily disappointed. Messrs. Graze & Son, under whom we 
 travel have, so far, provided lor every want consistent with the 
 customs of the land. I joined this excursion with many misgiv- 
 ings and expected to endure numberless annoyances. Everything 
 has worked smoothly and well. We have nothing to look after 
 except to see the sights and listen to the explanations given by 
 the conductors and guides. In all the large cities carriages are 
 provided from one to three days. Carriages are always provided 
 to and from hotels and railroad stations. Baggage, or luggage as 
 
 DO O ' OO O 
 
 it is called here, is labeled, and everything, to the minutest parti 
 cular, taken care of for us; We have traveled by special trains, 
 thus economizing our time. All travel is first-class, and the fees, 
 so annoying to single travelers, are all paid by Graze & Son. The 
 companionship of so pleasant a party as ours is extremely enjoy- 
 able and we are all having a pleasant, time. A few of the party 
 weid. to Ptoslyn Castle to-day, a part to Abbotsford, while I took 
 an independent excursion to Dundee, across the Tay bridge, about 
 two hours' ride. This wonderful bridge, approaches and all, is 
 about two and a half miles lone- and is eighty-eight feet above 
 
Funny Penciling* in Europe. 17 
 
 high water. A few weeks ago the Queen crossed the bridge and 
 was so impressed that she sent for the builder and knighted him. 
 It has a single track and was open to traffic on the 31st May, 
 1878. On my return to Edinburgh I expressed my opinion 
 against its faulty construction, and prophesied it would fall before 
 long.* Between the river Tay and Edinburgh I crossed the Frith 
 of Forth, five and a half miles wide at the ferry, dust above, 
 say two miles, the North British Railway Company are about to 
 build a suspension bridge, wdiich they intend shall rival our 
 Brooklyn structure. The place selected is a very favorable one 
 on account of a long point of land which reaches out into the 
 Frith. The lowest part of the floor of the bridge is to be one 
 hundred and eightv-five feet from the water. I was also informed 
 that the towers are to be five hundred and seventy-six feet in 
 height, wdiich may or may not be correct. 
 
 Dundee has 121,000 inhabitants, also thirty -five acres of docks, 
 and among other notable things a magnificent public bath house. 
 The latter is built of sandstone, and the interior is finely fitted 
 up with marble floors and tiling. In 1651 the city was taken 
 by Gen. Monk after a seige of six weeks. Lumsden, the govern- 
 or, was beheaded, and his head fixed upon one of the abutments 
 of the old steeple. Monk caused 11,000 persons to be massacred 
 during three days. The slaughter was, so says tradition, stopped 
 by the heart-rending spectacle of an infant in the street sucking 
 at the cold and blood-besmeared breast of its dead mother. 1 
 had occasion to inquire the price of steam engines and other ma- 
 chinery in this place, and find we can buy cheaper at home. 
 
 July 11.— We took carriages to-day around the Queen's Drive. 
 En route we visited Craig Millar castle, in which James Y Lived 
 when a boy, and once a favorite residence of Queen Mary. It is 
 now a very picturesque ruin, overgrown with ivy and other climb- 
 ing vines. From there around, under the hills, by a basaltic for- 
 mation called Samson's Ribs, we came to Holyrood Palace. This 
 is a place of almost overwhelming historic, interest. Here we 
 were shown many things, the most interesting being Lord Darn- 
 
 *It has since fallen. 
 
18 
 
 Style-0 !-Graphic Pens and 
 
 HOLYEOOD AND ARTHUR S SEAT. 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 19 
 
 ley's and Queen Mary's rooms; also the private staircase up 
 which crept the murderers of Eizzio. Queen Mary's and Charles 
 the First's beds, and some sofas and chairs used by them, were also 
 exhibited. Some fine tapestry brought from France by that most 
 beautiful but unfortunate Queen hangs from the walls. The 
 Chapel Royal is of absorbing interest. Here Charles I was 
 crowned, also James II, James III and James IV. Queen Mary 
 and Darnley were married within its walls, and Darnley is buried 
 there ; also the remains of David II, James II, James V, and his 
 Queen rest here. The date of the foundation of this chapel can- 
 not be later than 1150. Let me digress here to say that when I 
 see dates I almost invariably compare them with the date of the 
 discovery of America (1492). Many friends said to me before 
 starting, "' Why don't you see more of your own country ? " But 
 I am satisfied with my decision to see the old world first. It ele- 
 vates and rounds out one's life to explore these ancient edifices, to 
 tread where so many of the great and also infamous characters of 
 history have trodden, to look upon walls on which they have looked, 
 and to recall the memories brought down to us by the writers 
 who write no more. 
 
 The most wonderful castle we have yet seen is the Edin- 
 burgh. Of course I can not give all the interesting details. It 
 stands on the summit of a rock four hundred and forty-three 
 feet above the level of the sea. It is approached by an esplanade 
 three hundred by three hundred and sixty feet. Several monu- 
 ments stand on this road of minor interest. This castle, like the 
 others we have seen, has a moat, drawbridge, portcullis, etc. One 
 arch has eight gates and a portcullis also. Mons Megs is planted 
 on the citadel or highest point. This immense cannon was forged 
 at Mons in 1476, has been used in several battles and was burst 
 in 1682. Its bore is thirteen feet long and twenty inches in di- 
 ameter and it weighs five tons. A remarkable piece of ordin- 
 ance, considering the time it was made. Long lines of sovereigns 
 lived and died in this old stronghold. Here, also, the Scottish 
 Parliament used to convene. And here Queen Mary gave l?irth 
 to James I. The old Scottish crown is shown, together with 
 
20 Style-0 I-Graphic Penh and 
 
 scepter and sword of State. The crown wan first worn by Robert 
 Bruce and last by Charles II. We were shown the window out 
 <if which Mary lowered little James, from whence he was car- 
 ried to Stirling Castle, and there baptised a Roman Catholic. 
 Later years proved that ceremony of no account. Edinburgh is 
 a wonderfully interesting and beautiful city. Everything is 
 substantial, and its buildings and many residences palatial. Its 
 water reservoir contains 2,000,000 -allons. But facts multiply, 
 and without description I will name many points of interest: 
 John Knox's house, Calton Hill, Scott Mon, Prince Albert Me- 
 morial, Canongate Tolbooth, Royal Exchange, St. Giles Church, 
 where Jenny Geddes threw the stool at the head of the Dean, 
 and where John Knox preached. John was a powerful preacher, 
 and Queen Mary vouched for his praying qualities, for the rec- 
 ord reports her as saying. '"I am more afraid of John Knox's 
 prayers than of an army of soldiers." In Greyfriars Church-yard 
 many distinguished personages are buried : thirty-seven chief 
 magistrates of the city ; twenty-three professors and principals 
 of the university. Also, Allan Ramsey, the poet; William Ged, 
 the inventor of stereotyping ; Dr. Joseph Black, chemist; and 
 Robertson, the historian. The Martyr's Monument marks the 
 spot where many of the covenanters arc interred, who were exe- 
 cuted by Charles I and James II. A quaint inscription on one 
 stone attracted our attention. It reads : 
 Sacred to the Memory of Helen Blake, 
 
 She was, 
 
 But words are wanting: 
 Think what a wife should be, 
 And she was that. 
 
 July 18. — We rode all night, arriving at Kenilworth at seven 
 this morning. After breakfast we "did" the castle, which is 
 .sadly out of "repair." and very interesting. 
 
 Standing within the walls of Banqueting Hall, the imagina- 
 tion runs wild, and you seem to hear the jests, laughter and song, 
 while the spirits of those who once gathered there nit around, in 
 the mind's eye. and von look upon the banquet, and among those 
 
Funny Penciling* in Europe. 
 
 21 
 
 JOHN KNOX S HOUSE 
 
22 Style-0 1-Graphic Pens and 
 
 who were there, by the invitation of the Earl of Leicester in be- 
 half of Elizabeth for whom it was given. The tents that were 
 used and the appurtenances for the same filled seven carts. It 
 lasted seventeen days, at a cost of £1,000 a day, or nearly $5,000. 
 This took place in July, 1575. " The quantity of beer alone 
 which was drunk in the castle during this time amounted to three 
 hundred and twenty hogsheads, independently of a commensurate 
 quantity of wine and liquors, the daily consumption being sixteen 
 hogsheads of wine, forty hogsheads of beer, and ten oxen slaught- 
 ered every morning." Observes the writer Laneham : " The 
 cloc bell sung not a note all the while her Highness was there ; 
 the cloc stood also still withall ; the hands of both the tables 
 stood firm and fast, always pointing at two o'cloc, the hour of 
 banquet." 
 
 "When Leicester sought of gallant zeal the hand of Time to stay, 
 And, with refined devotion, made it banquet all the day." 
 
 The noble place is full of interest, and we turned away with re- 
 gret, from amid the shadows that the years had laid upon it, to 
 another spots where rests the ashes of one, a favorite of all the 
 intelligent world, the home and birthplace of William Shakspeare, 
 — Stratford-on-Avon. The place is quite old, and was famous 
 long before the time of his birth, but has become one of more in- 
 terest since his advent into the world (1564.) The visitors are 
 obliged to wait unless they happen to be among the foremost 
 ones, as they are allowed to show only a few at a time when there 
 is a crowd. So it took some time to pass through, and many were 
 disappointed in not having more time in this most interesting of 
 places. The kitchen is a room of moderate size, as are all the 
 rooms. The floor is laid with flagstones. The shop, the library, 
 the museum containing books, works of art and many other ob- 
 jects of interest, are seen, also two old relics; the desk which 
 he used when a pupil at the grammar school, and his chair. In 
 another room is hung a life-size painting of him at the age of 
 thirty-five. It is kept in an iron safe, which is thrown open 
 during the day and closed at night. Lastly, the room where 
 he was born, — where his baby cries made glad the mother's 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 23 
 
 heart, and his childish feet first learned to walk. You might 
 have heard a pin drop at the time I stood in the room, among the 
 few there, for the impression made upon us all was very marked ; 
 and more than ever did one wish that the silence of the room 
 might have speech, to tell of him who afterward gave to the 
 world so much beauty of thought. 
 
 It would be useless to attempt a description of the place and 
 surroundings. But it is a pleasant pastime to walk down through 
 the streets from Henley to what is called the New Place on Chapel 
 Street. Here nothing remains but the old well and a few of the 
 foundation stones ; but you see the grounds and garden and the 
 spot where much of his labor was performed. We next pass on 
 down to the Church of the Holy Trinity, which stands upon the 
 banks of the Avon, amid the ivy and lime-trees which line the 
 walk on either side. The graves of the Shakespeare family lie 
 in a row, and the inscription given below is nearly an exact copy 
 of that upon his tomb : — 
 
 " Good Friend For Jesvs Sake For Beare 
 To Digg The Dust encloased Heare 
 Blese Be Ye Man Yt Spares Thes Stones 
 And Cvrst Be He Yt Moves My Bones." 
 
 In this church may be seen an entry in the register book which 
 is of great interest: "William, son of John Shakespeare, bap- 
 tized on the 16th April, 1564." 
 
 The cottage of Anne Hathaway is still seen, and is in very good 
 condition. The following will speak for itself: — 
 
 " Here lyeth interred the body of Annie, wife of William Shake- 
 speare, who depted this life the 6 day of Aug. 1623." 
 
 We lunched at the " Red Lion," where Washington Irving 
 once stayed ; leaving Stratford at 3 o'clock and arriving in 
 London at 8 P. M., stopping at the Grosvernor House, Vic- 
 toria Station. We are tired out and look forward to Sunday 
 as a " day of rest." 
 
 Sunday, July 13. — This morning many of us went to hear 
 Spurgeon and were well paid. His text was from the fifth chap- 
 ter of Hosea, the fifteenth verse. He began bv savins; that when 
 
24 Style-0 !-Graphic Pens and 
 
 God leaves us we begin to cry out. If He is gone, hope is gone. 
 He made three points : 1st, Sin as it relates to our national 
 troubles; 2d, Sin in relation to its trials of believers, and 3d, 
 The trials of unbelievers. His sentences were terse and he had 
 a powerful hold on his audience. His remarks took a political 
 turn when discussing the first point. He spoke of the lament- 
 able fact that the hay crop is already a failure, and other crops 
 likely to be, unless it stops raining or, to use his own expression, 
 "unless the bottles of heaven are closed soon." lie, said, " Eng- 
 land has waged two unjust wars in which there could be no glory, 
 for it was the, strong lighting the weak. (Jut upon the policy that 
 makes people call England the growlers and Snarlers among na- 
 tions. England is to-day shedding innocent blood without just 
 cause. Surely the curse must follow, yes, it is at hand. Call 
 this political or not, it is true. Do what you will with it, I have 
 said it." < »ne expression used by him, was, "Don't let your life 
 be remembered by its faults." 
 
 I fancy it would hardly do for one of our clergymen to meddle 
 with politics as freely as Spurgeon did to-day. lie echoes public 
 sentiment, however, for they think here among the most intelli- 
 gent classes that the Zulu war was unnecessary and is being badly 
 managed. They seem to consider Lord Beaconsfield what we 
 should call a. demagogue. 
 
 I noticed, also, that he used gestures while praying, and that 
 he invited all members of " sister churches " to the communion 
 table, which ordinance he administered at the close of the sermon. 
 From which I learn he is an open communionist. 
 
 In the afternoon we went to Westminster Abbey and heard 
 seme good singing and poor preaching; but not Dean Stanley. 
 I walked from Westminster to the Thames, and strolling along 
 came across Cleopatra's Needle. 
 
 1 >ur party are beginning to get accustomed to European ways, 
 although the table d'hote, with its regular courses, does not 
 please us ; but we have got to bear it, the same as a rabbit has to 
 bear being lifted by its ears. 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 25 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 London, July, 1879. 
 The weather continues wet and cold. I am wearing, excepting 
 overcoat, the sain.' clothes that I should wear during our winter, 
 and at times feel uncomfortable at that. The failure of the crops 
 is now an assured thing. For nine months up to the present time 
 the weather has been terrible, heavy storms through the winter, 
 continua] rain all the spring. The dépression in trade and labor 
 is also getting to be a serious matter. The streets of the cities 
 and towns, where we have been, teem with idle men. It seems 
 to be worse than it is at home. I have gathered some informa- 
 tion regarding wages. At- Edinburgh, women are working in tin' 
 fields at twenty-five cents per day. Stone-cutters receive $1.40, 
 and policemen in London get a trifle less than one dollar per daw 
 Splendor, squalor and tilth are on every side, [mmense sums of 
 money have been and are being expended on government build- 
 ings and statues. All this added to the heavy drafts on the na- 
 tion's treasury made, by unnecessary war and foreign complications, 
 puts John Bull into his growling mood. To-day we went to the 
 Tower and saw so many interesting objects that it is almost im- 
 possible to enumerate them. I mention a few prominent points, 
 and first : The site of Bloody Tower, where the princes were mur- 
 dered. The smallest armor in the armory was made for one of 
 those princes. In the armory there are the armors worn bymany 
 of the Kings of England, ancient pikes of Cromwell's time, and 
 the old block and axe used for cutting off the heads of many his- 
 torical celebrities. All the arms issued to the British army go 
 through the Tower. There are deposited there at present 100,000 
 stand of the latest pattern, not including small arms, pistols and 
 
26 Style-0 .'-Graphic Pens and 
 
 swords. The walls in some places arc fifteen feet thick, especial- 
 ly m the prison used to confine prisoners of State, or those who 
 were obnoxious to the reigning sovereign. In St. John's Chapel 
 lie buried the remains of the Earl of Surrey, Thomas Cromwell. 
 Lord Hastings, Earl of Essex, Duke of Somerset, Annie Boleyn, 
 Lady Jane Grey and others. From the Tower we proceeded to 
 St. Paul's, and up to the top of the dome, where, if the fog had 
 lifted, we should have had a fine view of the city. In the cellar, 
 among lesser notabilities, are the tombs of Nelson and Wellington. 
 The catafalque or hearse used at the latter's funeral is also pre- 
 served with all it,- expensive trappings. Then we visited Keii 
 sington Museum, passing many statues and public buildings. 
 The overwhelming collection of interesting things at Kensington 
 forbids any attempt at description. 1 might as well try to write 
 up our Centennial exhibition, of which it reminded me. 
 
 July 16. — Being provided with tickets by our guide we all went 
 to the Crystal Palace, where we were in about the sam:' predica- 
 ment as at Kensington. We heard some wonderful music, saw 
 many beautiful pictures, and scanned a great many other things 
 which might be expressed by the old term " too numerous to men- 
 tion." The afternoon was devoted, by some, to independent ex- 
 cursions in and about the city. 1 went to the London docks, the 
 tunnel miller the Thames, and took a steamboat ride oa the river 
 up above the bridges. i see they still adhere to the old custom 
 of having the wheelsman stand at the stem to steer the boat, in- 
 stead of at the bow, as we do, and keep a small boy to pasi bl 
 instructions to "slow her,"' "stop her," "back her," Am., instead 
 of using bells. Another matter connected with the railway sys- 
 tem attracts our 1 attention. It takes about fourteen men to start 
 a brain oi cars. Our trains being generally specials, we have to 
 be counted by the officials, in some instances six times. The la- 
 mentable ignorance, too, of these same men is pitiful. They never 
 know how far it is from one station to another, although we find 
 that a sixpence enlivens their memory and a shilling makes them 
 '• bright as a new dollar." We have used the underground rail- 
 road when possible, but it is not so pleasant nor so expeditious as 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 
 
 27 
 
 tli o elevated one in Now York. In the evening a large party weni 
 to sec Mme. Tussaud's wax-work show, which was very interest- 
 ing, although it' the figures of other notabilities are no nearer cor- 
 rect than were those intended for Lincoln, Grant and Johnson, it 
 would detract from the excellence of the exhibition. To-dav was 
 very pleasant, and the sun actually shone three times. 
 
 July 17. — Carriages again to Westminster Hall, Parliament 
 House, British Museum and National Gallery. At the Museum 
 we saw the celebrated Portland vase and the Elgin marbles. To- 
 night we leave for Taris, by way of New Haven and Dieppe. We 
 expect that some of the party will renew their experience of sea- 
 sickness, of which many still retain vivid recollections. 
 
 OUH ?(\ft\\ (VJWvNt QH \«t CO^vwtN"* 
 
28 
 
 Style-0 1-GnA.PHrc Pens and 
 
Funny Pencellings in Europe. 29 
 
 PARIS. 
 
 Paris, July, 1879. 
 Contrary to expectations, the trip across the Channel was made 
 over a smooth sea. and although some of the ladies staid on deck, 
 the larger number of the party had a good night's sleep. Cross- 
 ing from New Haven to Dieppe, including the time by rail from 
 London to the former place, occupied about eleven hours. We 
 made the run from Dieppe to Paris in thirteen hours and fifty 
 minutes, crossing the tortuos Seine no less than twenty-two times. 
 At Rouen nine officials each counted the number of the party. 
 The luggage being expressed to Paris, we did not have to go 
 through the hands of the customs officers until we got here. 
 Then, strangely enough, they selected one bag marked Rev. ■ 
 
 to represent the party. That went through all right, so all the 
 rest were passed without inspection. This reminds me that when 
 we arrived at Greenock the English officials were very strict in 
 their examination of all the baggage marked Rev. I am very 
 sorry to sec them so suspicions of clergymen. It looks badly for 
 the profession. So far my baggage has escaped attention, al- 
 though there was nothing contraband in it. The afternoon of 
 to-day was spent at our pleasure. Many of the ladies went shop- 
 ping, and are relating fabulous stories about buying kids for forty 
 cents per pair, and laces for "almost nothing." 
 
 Prof. 1). and the writer took a long walk, passing the Column 
 Vendôme, along and across some of the Boulevards into the gar- 
 den of the Tuilleries, up through the Place de la Concorde, where 
 stands the obelisk of Luxor, on the spot where Louis XVI. was 
 beheaded, and afterwards Marie Antoinette, Charlotte Corday, and 
 nearlv 3000 others. The guillotine was removed to what is now 
 
30 
 
 Style !-G rate cc Pens ami 
 
Funny Pencilling^ in Eueope. 31 
 
 tin' Place de la Hotel de Ville, where the great slaughter was car- 
 ried on. The ruin of the Tuilléries, burned in L873 by the Com 
 munists, showed itself from this point. We continued our walk • 
 along the beautifu] Champs Elysees to the greal Arc de Triomphe 
 de L'Etoile, up which we ascended to the top, where we saw one of 
 the most beautiful views 1 ever saw, or ever expecl to see. The 
 day was bright and clem-, not a cloud or hit of smoke obstructed 
 the eye. Ft was begun by Napoleon I. and finished by Louis 
 Philippe, in L836. The Lay-out of the boulevards radiating from 
 it reminds one of the plan of Washington, I). C. From this arch 
 Napoleon expected, in ease of an uprising of the people, to sweep 
 the streets with cannon. When the German army forced the cap 
 itulation of the city (1871) they took advantage of the admirable 
 idea, and hoisting their artillery to the top of the structure, they 
 provided againsit any trouble which might arise from a disappoint- 
 ed and humbled people. Through the archway, erected to com- 
 memorate the battles of Napoleon and France, the German army 
 marched and countermarched. While the city was besieged the 
 arch was protected by scaffolding and sand bags, and curiously 
 enough, the only damage it sustained was when the cannon of the 
 French governmenl was turned upon it to dislodge the followers 
 of the Commune. In the evening we lounged through some of 
 the. arcades, cafes, and viewed some of the boulevards, which are 
 brilliantly illuminated by the electric Light. They tell us that it 
 is much more costly than gas. It has au unpleasant way of vary- 
 ing in intensity., blazing up and dying down, but always more 
 brilliant than gas. They are not sparing of light here, and Paris 
 by night is a sight that must be indelibly fixed on the minds of 
 all who see it. We also took a ride on one of the little steamers. 
 which ply on the Seine. The transition from dirty, filthy, foggy 
 London to clean, bright and beautiful Taris, is wonderful. Hero 
 we were enabled to doff some of our heavy wraps, and we are pre- 
 pared to do the city in light marching order. 
 
 July 18. — Carriages being provided, our guide took us to the 
 Church of the Trinity. < harden of Monceax, Hotel des Invalides, 
 the tomb of Napoleon I., Grobeliens Tapestry Factory, the Morgue, 
 
Style-0 !-Geapiiic Pens and 
 
 FRONT, NOTRE DAME. 
 
Funny I'encillings in Europe. 
 
 33 
 
 
:;] Style-0 l-G-RAPHic Tens and 
 
 and the Church of Notre Dame. The ( îhurch of Notre Dame and 
 the Church of St. Louis, where rest the ashes of the First Napo- 
 leon, are especially interesting to me. Whenaboy J read Abbot's 
 life of the great Emperor, and he so gilded over the man's faults 
 that he became my hero then, and the impression still remains. 
 In the Notre Dame he was crowned with Josephine, and alas! that 
 after marriage to Marie Louise also took place. At the tomb my 
 thoughts upon that great man were interrupted by the annoying 
 way our English guide has of slurring the Napoleons and the 
 French generally. It reminds me of a poodle dog harking at an 
 elephant. I am surprised to find that the English people are op- 
 posed to France, seemingly for no other reason than that she is a 
 Republic, and their grief at the death of the Prince Imperial 
 seems to be inconsolable. We also took a run (the right word) 
 through the Loin re. which is very near our hotel. Mentioning our 
 hotel, [want to say a good word for it. The name is Hotel Rhone, 
 and although a trifle old-fashioned, its cuisine is excellent, the best 
 we have met with so far. We have some highly-educated ladies 
 with us, but somehow their French don't work, By the aid of 
 the Traveler's [nsurance Company's hand-book, under the head of 
 "Bad French," I am able to get along very well. One of our 
 number says the number of his room is "one cat," or twenty-four, 
 anyway when he says "one cat," the clerk hands him the key. 
 The French, according to the "Traveler's" authority, is ''Vaut 
 Ivawtr." I went to the barber's this morning and asked him to 
 raser (shave) me, which he did in an affecting way. bringing tears 
 to niv eyes. I thought of the shaving scene in Twain's Innocents 
 Abroad. By the way. every European traveler ought to read 
 that book.* 
 
 This evening a few of the young men got together and agreed 
 to go to that naughty place, the "Jardin Mabille." They did not 
 want it known to any of the ladies, neither did they care to in- 
 form some elderly married men of their intentions, so they stole 
 quietly away for a "walk on the Champs Elysees." What a sur- 
 prise it was to them when they had arrived at their real objective 
 
 * Published by American Publishing Co., Hartford, Conn. 
 
Funny Pencilling^ in Europe. 
 
 6b 
 
 JARDIN MABILLE. 
 
36 Style-0 [-Graphic Pens and 
 
 point, No". 87 Rue Montaigne, to find that many of the aforesaid 
 elderly gentlemen wen' already there. They having also been 
 anxious to keep their plans a secret, had hired a carriage and got 
 there first. I am satisfied also by certain indications that 'seme 
 one has "given it away " to the ladies. Probably seme of the 
 married men had to "confess" where they had been, and if one 
 woman knows anything of that kind the rest of the ladies in the 
 circle of her acquaintance are very apt to become possessors of 
 the secret. The place is simply a brilliantly lighted wine garden 
 with a good orchestra and a dancing pavilion, in which at times, 
 generally late in the evening;, the dance assumes something; of a 
 bacchanalian character. One grey-headed man said he was dis- 
 appointed because it was not one-half as had as he expected. 
 It is a wilderness of shrub-and-tree bordered walks, hung with 
 lights, with alcoves and inviting seats, and a music-stand in the 
 middle of ;i dancing-space in the centre. Different plants grow 
 from those set out by the horticulturist. It has very fine music. 
 of a rapid character, from early evening until midnight; and dur- 
 ing the early hours it is simply a very pleasant promenade and 
 lounge. Later in the evening, the dancing commences, shared in 
 by no portion of the respectable promenaders, but carried on en- 
 tirely by professionals or habitues. This dancing is composed of 
 the wildest waltzes, the cancan intermixed; and much of it, while 
 ludicrously amusing, is grossly indecent. Gentlemen very often 
 visit it; many gentlemen, of character and standing, take ladies 
 there, or those dearest to them; but they do not often publicly 
 state that they have done so. Under no circumstances musl a 
 lady, visiting this place, allow herself to become separated from 
 her escort, for own a minute; and it is not too severe a rule to 
 say that no lady should ever visit it, unless accompanied by 
 husband, father , or some person of years, with some female mem- 
 ber of his own family. [This plain statement of the proprieties is 
 made here from the knowledge that the Jardin Mabille will he 
 visited, and the desire that the least possible harm may accrue 
 from thai special "frolic" m which so many of the eminently-re- 
 spectable share.] 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 37 
 
 Something more objectionable than the Mabille, in .some of its 
 features, is the Closerie des Lilas, on the Boulevard St. Michel, 
 on the south side of the Seine, near the Luxembourg, a too-favor- 
 ite resort of students, grisettes, and yet more objectionable char- 
 acters. [A very moderate acquaintance with either of the places 
 named in this section, is quite sufficient-, pro bono publico .] 
 
 July 21. — Prof. I), is quite a master of the tongue that prevails 
 her.', but yesterday he failed. I attempted to call the hotel cat 
 by the old familiar kitty, kitty, puss, puss, pussy, and making no 
 impression I called on the Professor to help me out. He began 
 shah, (chat), shah! shah! ! shah! scat ! ! ! but the Palis cat did not 
 notice Yankee French. We have, by means of our guides and 
 carriages, economized the time, and, consequently have seen a 
 great deal. Among the most interesting places visited, which I 
 have not before mentioned, was the cemetery of Pere la Chaise, 
 where there are 18,000 tombs, among them that of Abelard and 
 Heloise, M. Thiers, once President of the French Republic, the 
 grave of Marsha] Ney, etc. The remains of Rachel and Rossini 
 rest here. In this cemetery the Communists of 1871 entrenched 
 themselves, and many of the tondis and monuments show the 
 marks of shot and shell. The Jardin des Plantes and Zoological 
 
 O 
 
 Museum was also taken in. Many other interesting points, in- 
 cluding several churches, were in the programme. On Sunday 
 many of the party went the round of the services at different 
 churches, and others cultivated the aesthetic in their nature by 
 visiting the Louvre, with its five miles of pictures. The writer 
 was one of the last-mentioned'party, considering it no worse to look 
 at the beautiful and artistic than to ride around and curiously 
 gaze upon the intricate and peculiar services of the churches. 
 To-day makes four and one-half days which we have spent here. 
 We are hah to go, hut we leave for Basle at ' s o'clock on the East- 
 ern railway, via Delle. 
 
 Basle, -Inly 22. — Arriving here at 7h o'clock this morning we 
 breakfasted at the Hotel Schweizerhoff, and then roamed about the 
 town to tin- Cathedral Die Pfalz. commanding grand views of the 
 Rhine and Black forest. We also spent an hour in the Media 
 
38 
 
 StYLE-0 l-GrRAPHIC PENS AND 
 
 Museum, where among other relics we .saw a chest with knife 
 and fork, said to have been the property of Erasmus. On our 
 way here we rode through some glorious scenery and many long 
 tunnels. Some of our young men pretended to find fault with the 
 fact that the cars are not lighted up for passing the aforesaid tun- 
 nels, and say they cannot hear the "exposure" — to temptation, I 
 presume, for the sexes in most of the coaches are mixed. To-night 
 we shall be in Lucerne. 
 
 STUDENTS BALL, 
 
Funny Pencilling^ in Europe. 
 
 39 
 
 BASLE. 
 
 STREET SCENE IN PARIS. 
 
40 
 
 Style-0 '-Graphic Pens an: 
 
Funny Pencilling* in Eubope. 41 
 
 LUCEEXE. 
 
 Lucebne, Switzerland, July 22, 1879. 
 We arrived here at 6 r. m. and settled for the night at the Lu- 
 cernhoff. On looking over our number we found that a larsre 
 party had been left at Paris. The driver of their carriage unfor- 
 tunately left tin mu at the wrong depot. This is the only serious 
 mistake that has happened since we started. Last evening we at- 
 tended a special organ concert at the Hoff Kirche, by M. Meyer. 
 I never heard music before; that is, I have listened to siimimr 
 
 ' * CO 
 
 and all sorts of instruments, from the banjo up to the organ, but 
 the wonderful execution, touch and perception of M. Meyer sur- 
 passed everything. He gave us a "Storm in the Alps," and a 
 most perfect imitation it was. The thunder rolled and rebounded 
 from mountain to mountain, the lightning's hiss and the pouring 
 rain were so perfect that all we had to do was to shut our eyes 
 and give ourselves up to the complete hallucination. Then to show 
 the capacity of the organ, the stops were changed, and we, seem- 
 ingly, listened to the singing of a perfect choir. The different 
 parts, the soprano, alto, tenor and bass, mingled sweetly together, 
 while at times they were given separately. While listening to its 
 entrancing strains we were almost carried up to Heaven. Among 
 the curiosities of the town are the "Lion," designed by Thorwal- 
 den, sculptured in the solid rock, and which commemorates the 
 Swiss soldiers who defended the Tuilleries in 1702. Also, the 
 Capellbrucke, a quaint bridge, which crosses, the Reusse. T ex- 
 pected that when we left Paris the journey and sight-seeing would 
 begin to pall, but it has proved the contrary. On oui- way we 
 passed quaint looking towns and immense peat bogs or fields. In 
 the latter we saw men and women cutting and piling the turf. 
 There were also innumerable thatched huts, in which it is stored 
 
42 
 
 Style-0 !-Graphig Tens and 
 
 to keep it dry. Just before we got here the snow-clad hills came 
 in view, and many of the ladies shivered at the sight. To-mor- 
 row we go to Vitznau, taking steamer for a sail on the lake. Re- 
 turning from Flttelen to Vitznau we shall ascend the Rigi moun- 
 tains by means of the railway, and spending the night at the 
 summit, we hope to have propitious weather which will admit of 
 our seeing the sun rise. 
 
 Jul v 24. — We have just returned from the ascent of Rigi Kulm, 
 which is nearly C000 feet above the sea. We went up by means 
 of the steam railway, which is similar in its appointments to the 
 one at Mount Washington. The steepest grade rises 1 in 4, while 
 that of Mount Washington is 1 in 3. It rained very hard while 
 we were going np and the air was extremely chilly. Many of the 
 party were not sufficiently clothed and consequently they suffered 
 very much. During the evening a dance was arranged, which 
 horrified some of the clergymen and served to warm up the blood 
 of the younger people. The early morning- to-day was not very 
 favorable, so that those' who arose at. 4 o'clock were not well 
 pleased with the reality of an expected sunrise. Before we left 
 the sun shone brightly, bringing out a great many peaks and 
 mountains, and was the grandest sight we have yet witnessed. 
 The view commands a circuit of 300 miles. Eleven lakes may be 
 
Funny Pencillings ix Eukope. T3 
 
 counted. In the distance are the snow-clad heights of the Ber- 
 aese Alps, the Jungfrau, Elger, Finster, Aahorn and many others. 
 No one, if opportunity offered, should fail to make the ascent of 
 the Rigi. From Vitznau, at the foot of the mountain, we re-em- 
 barked on the steamer Cassa for Lucerne, where we changed boats, 
 taking the William Tell for Alpnach, thence by diligence across 
 the Brunig pass to Brientz, and by steamer from the latter place 
 to Geissbach. The scenery along the pass is of extreme interest. 
 The mountains tower above you until their peaks are hidden by 
 the clouds. Below, in the valleys, villages with quaint looking 
 houses, dot the ever-varying landscape. On our arrival at Brientz 
 we had a specimen of some of the attempts made to swindle un- 
 wary travelers. In one of the diligences a, window was broken 
 and the people occupying it say it was broken before they got in- 
 to it, but the driver insisted that some one should pay him five 
 francs. He attempted to take a gentleman's baggage away from 
 him, but the other gentlemen prevented it. We finally got away 
 amidst the threatenings of the drivers. Another instance occur- 
 red, similar, but not so flagrant an imposition, at Lucerne, in 
 which one gentlemen paid one franc for a broken candlestick 
 which he never even touched. The hotel at which we are stop- 
 ping to-night, the Geissbach, is elevated four hundred feet above 
 the lake (Brientz,) and is approached from the landing by a rail- 
 way, the cars being drawn tip the declivity by means of a wire 
 rope and an ingenious arrangement which I will try to explain. 
 There are two cars, each provided with water tanks underneath. 
 ( )ne of the cars being at the top of the hill, the other at the hot- 
 torn, the tanks of the upper car are filled with water. The su- 
 perior weight sends that car down the hill, and the wire being at- 
 tached to both cars, the other is drawn up. When the car gets to 
 the bottom the water is let out of the tanks, and of course the 
 tanks of the other are filled. The whole apparatus, including an 
 exceedingly light iron viaduct, impressed me as being very dang- 
 erous. This evening the Geissbach Falls, in front of- the hotel, 
 were beautifully illuminated by means of colored lights, while a 
 band discoursed sweet music. 
 
44 Style-0 !-Graphic Peïns and 
 
 July 25. — We came by steamer from Geissbach over the lake 
 of Brientz, then took the ears for Interlachen. At the latter 
 place we entered carriages and were driven to Lauterbrunnen, 
 where we saw the Staubbach fall, which conies over a precipice 
 1000 feet high. Its appearance can he described by likening it 
 to a. -steam fire-engine playing water up to a great heighth, only 
 reverse the stream. It conies over the rock solidly at first, then 
 breaking into sprav, it again gathers itself into sheets as it 
 strikes the projecting rocks below. From Staubbach to Grindel- 
 wald, our next drive, we again had a good view of the Jungfrau, 
 Matterhorn and other mountains. On the way we passed an old 
 ruin, spoken of by Byron in Manfred and by Longfellow in Hype- 
 rion. At many points on the road men had stationed themselves 
 with their Alpine horns, with which they awakened wonderful 
 echoes. The best one was opposite where the rocks had formed a 
 complete sounding hoard. After reaching Grindelwald, about 
 thirty of us organized a pedestrian excursion to the "Superior 
 Glacier," which occupied about three hours of our time. At 
 the glacier a cave 150 feet in length had been hewn out of 
 the si. Hd [ce, which we entered, paying fifty centimes (ten cents) 
 for the privilege of enduring the sensation of being in an immense 
 refrigerator. On our way down I bought a dish of strawberries 
 with sugar, and a glass of milk for thirty centimes (six cents), 
 a refreshing instance of a generosity rarely met with in this 
 country. They had a tame woodchuck, which was exhibited 
 without il extra" charge. There is another glacier, called the 
 "Inferior." which occupies a valley that once united Grindelwald 
 and Valois. When the avalanche came down it buried two small 
 villages. The bell of a church was the only thing that was ever 
 recovered, and that now hangs in the tower of the church at 
 Grindelwald. One year ago an avalanche came down near tin' 
 village, which swept away two houses and covered the road over 
 which we passed. The trees here are much like the people. 
 They live in almost any place where they can gain a hold. We 
 saw some that seemingly grew on the bare rock. On our way up 
 the hills a large number of boys appeared with handsful of short 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 
 
 45 
 
 bushes, with which they thrashed the flies from the horses. We 
 were also besieged by girls and women with all sorts of articles, 
 which they wanted to sell. There were little booths or stalls 
 beside the road, where they kept their wares and worked at mak- 
 ing lace. They handled the bobbins with wonderful dexterity, 
 some of the operators being scarcely eight years old. They 
 showed us complete little models of Swiss chateaux, lace of all 
 widths, strawberries in baskets made on the spot from twigs 
 and leaves, together with simple hunches of flowers. Some of the 
 more persistent "sales ladies" ran along by the carriages for 
 miles. We tried some of the strawberries and found them very 
 small and exceedingly hitter. At one place where we stopped, a 
 gentleman of the party borrowed a glass, to drink from at a flow- 
 ing spring close by, for which he was charged one franc. So, you 
 see, the people are hound to get a living in some way. 
 
 GRINDELWALD. 
 
 July 26. — We left Interlachen at A. M. and came by way of 
 Thun to Berne (Bear), stopping at the latter place to see the won- 
 derful mechanical clock, four hundred and sixty years old, and 
 the bear-pits. This is a Bear town in earnest; the signs have 
 bears on them, and even the bakers cut their cookies into the 
 shape of bears. The clock was very interesting, and we had the 
 
46 
 
 Styli: '-Graphic Pens and 
 
 pleasure of hearing it strike two, and of witnessing the working 
 of its mechanical figures. The old man with the sceptre reversed 
 his hour-glass, the cock crew, and the bears marched around 
 their circle. The buildings in the town are very strongly put up. 
 The walls are in the form of a buttress, that is. widest at the bot- 
 tom. Nothing shorl of an earthquake would cause them to fall. 
 Umbrellas must be at a. discount, for the second story of the 
 houses project, so that they give a perfect protection rom sun 
 and rain, forming an arcade. 
 
 NO FEE : 
 
Funny Pencilltngs in Europe. 
 
48 Style-0 .'-Graphic Pens and 
 
 FEIBOURO. 
 
 Fribourg, July 27. 
 
 We arc in Fribourg, and have been wandering around or 
 resting. as suited us best. After so much incessant trawl and 
 sight-seeing, a day of rest is delightful. It gives many a chance 
 to write up their "Notes," or to send friendly and loving epistles 
 to " Amérique." , Conscience cannot trouble us tor not attend- 
 ing church, for what good can we receive when we cannot under- 
 stand the language? We are to attend a sacred concert this. 
 evening, to be given on the great organ by Fferr You'd. 
 
 In order, I suppose, that we might not lapse into heathenism, 
 a good old-fashioned New England social prayer-meeting Avas 
 held, in the parlors of the hotel where we stop, namely, tin.' 
 Hotel de Fribourg. Moody and Sankey hymns were sung, and 
 each one took part as the Spirit moved. There are two won- 
 derful suspension bridges here crossing over the river Saone, re- 
 spectively ( .K)Ô and 700 feet long, and 175 and 285 feet above the 
 water. They sway badly, but seem to be safe. The oldest one 
 was built, I think, in 1834, and at that time was a, remarkable 
 structure: is the longest single curve suspension bridge in the 
 world. By single curve is meant that the bridge ends on the 
 south side, where the middle of an ordinary bridge of the same 
 construction would be. The anchorage for the cables at both 
 ends is made in the natural ledge, so that no towers had to be 
 built. A house is cut ont of the same solid rock, in which the 
 bridge-tender and his family live. Tne Church of St. Nicholas, 
 in which stands the organ referred to in my last, was begun in 
 1285, and the tower (two hundred and eighty feet high) finished 
 in 1452. The sculptures of the Last Judgment, over the portal, 
 
Funny Pencilling^ tn Europe. 
 
 49 
 
 are very curious and interesting. We also saw the celebrated 
 lime tree, which is taken care of similarly to the way Boston 
 takes care of the old elm on the Common, being ironed and 
 propped up so as to keep it alive as long as possible. It is sup- 
 posed to have sprung from a twig brought by the bearer of the 
 news of the victory of Morat, 1470. The story goes that the 
 courier died on the spot from over-exertion. This city, like 
 Lucerne, is a walled town, with here and there its old watch 
 towers. The older streets have no sidewalks, and the gutters 
 are in the center of the roadway, which is also similar to Lu- 
 cerne. Some one says this place was founded before Christ. 
 Judging by my senses and its general appearance, I should be in- 
 clined to believe it. Another noticeable thing here is the plan of 
 cutting pantaloons, especially those worn by the bourgeois or com- 
 mon people. The style meets a want long felt by the youth of 
 America. They are very wide across the hips, giving an unlim- 
 ited capacity of pockets, each one holding something less than 
 half a bushel. They would be just the article to go chestnuting in. 
 
 te 
 
50 Style-0 !-Graphic Pens and 
 
 An annoying, yet laughable incident occurred here. The wash- 
 ing belonging to our party came into the office of the hotel badly 
 mixed. All names, and the cabalistic signs which laundry women 
 generally use, had accidentally been lost, and the party were in- 
 vited to select their own. Some of the linen was exceptionally 
 dainty, but those were just the pieces which no one seemed likely 
 to claim. I saw a clergyman looking at a very long stocking, the 
 striping of which was evidently suggested by a barber's pole. He 
 seemed dazed for a moment, but was finally brought to sense again 
 by a poke in the ribs from an unfeeling young man. 
 
 Some weeks after I heard our conductor say that many pieces 
 remained in his charge, and if not claimed before our arrival in 
 London, he had a faint idea of presenting them to his wife. 
 
 Geneva, July 28. — To-day we went by rail to Lusanne; from 
 there to Ouchv, where we took steamer at 11 o'clock through 
 Lake Leman to Geneva, landing us at 3 P. M. On the way we 
 passed the residence of Prince Napoleon, and thepld residence of 
 Madame De Stael, near Coppet, was pointed out. Four of the 
 party, all ladies, took a side trip to the < Vistle of Chillon, where 
 Bonavard was imprisoned, and saw where Lord Byron, Eugene 
 Sue and other celebrities have cut their names. In the evening a 
 concert was given at the great Cathédrale de St. Pierre, by Mr. 
 Haering, organist of the Cathedral. 
 
 THE PROGRAMME. 
 
 1. Prelude et fugue, ....... Bach. 
 
 2. Adagio de la Sonate Pathétique, . . . Beethoven. 
 
 3. Scene, Alpestre (Loi Manfred), . . . Schumann. 
 1. Pastorale: 
 
 (a) Prière, ....... Lefebure. 
 
 (b) Improvisation d'Orage, .... Haer 
 
 me 
 
 .^ - 
 
 (c) Cavatine (Fac ut portem), .... BossinL 
 5. Marche, funèbre (Samson), ..... Handel. 
 ,6. Chœur des Pèlerins (Tannhauser), . . B. Wagner. 
 
 Suivi de l'Air National, " God Save the Queen." 
 
 Geneva is a very pretty city, and there are rare temptations to 
 exchange filthy lucre for bijoutorie, a temptation yielded to by 
 several. Another attraction durine the evenine was a baud con- 
 
FrxxY Pencillings in Europe. 
 
 5] 
 
 cert given in a picturesque park on the shores of the lake. Rock- 
 ets were sent up at intervals, and red lights were burning most of 
 the time. The many bridges were well lighted, small pleasure 
 boats, each with two white and one red light, were sailing along 
 the shores, to all of which the moon added her soft effulgence to 
 make a beautiful scene, long to be remembered. I have just 
 learned that my information as to the time of the founding of 
 Fribourg was much like some of the guides and guide-books — 
 very unreliable. 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ v - 
 
 CHAMOUNIX. 
 
52 Style-0 1-Grafhic Pens and 
 
 CHAMOUNIX. 
 
 Chamounix, July 29, 1879. 
 
 The ride of fifty-three miles, from Geneva to this place, was ac- 
 complished in eleven hours. There were relays of horses at two 
 places on the road, and many delays that made the journey ex- 
 ceedingly tiresome and uncomfortable. Added to it all was the 
 eating of our Table d'Hote dinner at a late hour, which made our 
 dreams as frightful as though Mount Blanc itself was resting upon 
 us instead of its shadow. We tried to pass away the time while 
 en route by singing, telling stories and conundrums. The best of 
 the latter, given us by the wife of a clergyman, deserves to be re- 
 corded : In what color ought a secret to be kept? In violet (in- 
 violate). To-morrow we go up to Montarivert to sec the Mer de 
 Glace. 
 
 July 30. — Two parties were organized this morning; one, con- 
 sisting of twelve gentlemen, started on foot; the other, thirty in 
 number, was made up of twenty ladies, ten gentlemen, and thirty 
 mules. Being among the pedestrians, I follow their fortunes first. 
 We climbed to the summit of Montanvert with varying suc- 
 cess and continual shortening of breath. At the top three of 
 the twelve concluded not to risk the crossing of the glacier, so 
 they returned over the path they had already traversed. We en- 
 livened the frequent halts while ascending by stories and conun- 
 drums. One hv Prof. B. of.'Binghanipton, N. Y., was very good : 
 Why is a bad quarter dollar like the vale below ? Because it is 
 sham money (Chamounix) ! 
 
 Nine of the climbers concluded to cross and go down. the Mau- 
 vais Pas. With our guide we followed the trail across the ice, 
 passing between yawning crevasses where one slip up l'aise step 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 
 
 53 
 
 CREVASSES. 
 
54 ■ Style-0 !-( i i ; a r i i i < ■ Tens a n i i 
 
 would have sent us to eternity, the path in one place being less 
 than five feet in width. Then we had to climb up the debris of 
 loose stones, called Moraines, and ice on the sides of the gorge, 
 following along the face of the mountain to the " dangerous 
 steps." They are cut in the precipitous face of the reck, many 
 of them being less than eight inches wide. An iron hand-rail 
 has been placed in the most exposed places, and the way some 
 of the party clung to that reminded me of the simile. " like a 
 dog to a willow root.'" At intervals we stopped and looked 
 first into the abyss and then up at the towering cliffs, it is no 
 place for a timid person, or one who is likely to be dizzy. It 
 would be a good thing to take a bad mother-in-law along, but 
 don't allow any lady-love to attempt it. Our brave Novem made 
 the round trip, estimated at fourteen to sixteen miles., in six 
 hours, one hour of the time being wasted in waiting tor the 
 guide, who was afflicted with a great and unquenchable thirst 
 for fire-water. When we, on the return, reached the confines 
 of the village, we formed a platoon, and with alpen stocks at 
 right-shoulder-shift, we took the streets by storm, marching up to 
 our hotel " amid the plaudits of the assembled multitude." each 
 «aie of us vowing that we felt better than when we started. Oh ! 
 how we brags-ed when, two hours later, the mule crowd came in. 
 
 DO ' 
 
 some individuals being on foot, having been thrown oil by the 
 frisky and unmanageable creatures, and for which they paid 
 twelve and one-half francs. Out of the thirty only six went 
 around, three of them being ladies. The glacier is twelve miles 
 long and one-quarter of a mile wide. It moves from eighteen to 
 twenty-four inches in a day. the center and top moving faster than 
 the sides and bottom, following the same law that governs com 
 mon rivers. 
 
 July 31.— "We left Chamounix at 8 A. M. for the ride out the 
 Tête Noir Pass. Of course we passed through- wonderful seen, ay, 
 and 1 doubt whether a road can be found in all Switzerland 
 thai does not produce a feeling of wonder. The best views are 
 from the vicinity of Roche Percée, where the road is tunneled 
 through the rocks, and that from Fordaz over the valley of the 
 
Funny Pencilling^ in Europe. 55 
 
 EXHAUSTED. 
 
56 Style-0 1-G-raphic Pens and 
 
 Rhone. We spent the night at Vernayaz, about two miles from 
 Martigny. We explored the Gorge Trient during the evening, 
 and again the next morning. The rocks on each side of the gap 
 rise almost five hundred feet, in some places nearly meeting across 
 the chasm. A narrow and frail foot-bridge helps you to view the 
 most interesting portions. The water rushes through with tre- 
 mendous force, and, meeting with rocky obstructions, is often 
 broken into spray which pleasantly sprinkles the passer-by. The 
 Peissvache fall, two hundred and forty feet high, is also considered 
 one of the attractions of the town, and the Professor and I arose 
 at 5 A. M. and got up an appetite for breakfast by walking to it 
 and back, making three miles. 
 
 August 1. — We came by rail to Brigue, where, at 11 o'clock, 
 we took diligences for the passage of the Simplon. This road far 
 surpassed anything we have experienced. Not only the grandeur 
 and sublimity of its scenery impressed us, but we were lost in 
 admiration of the mind that was so bold and competent as to con- 
 ceive and execute such an undertaking. On the way wo passed 
 through several tunnels and snow sheds. We also enjoyed the 
 luxury of snowballing one another with snow from the side of 
 the road, and the thermometer at eighty-five degrees in the shade 
 at that. At one point an avalanche, which came down a few 
 weeks before we left home, was being cleared away, and we 
 passed through the cut which had been made, with the snow and 
 ice on cadi side of us rising fully twenty feet perpendicularly. A 
 cooling experience for the first of August, but it did not cool our 
 ardor tor sight-seeing. We felt very sorry for the poor stay-at- 
 homes who are enduring extreme heat. We expect to sympathize 
 with them more fully when we stay at Naples and Rome. The 
 short statistics of the Simplon road are that it was six years in 
 building, furnishing employment to 30,000 men, and cost 18,000,- 
 000 franc-, or $3,600,000. It is probably unnecessary to state 
 that tlie First Napoleon was the man to whose colossal mind is 
 due the beginning and completion of the work. The names of 
 the civil engineers ought to lie inscribed on a lasting monument, 
 for thev had seeminedv insurmountable difficulties to overcome. 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 
 
 57 
 
 TETE NOIR. 
 
58 Style-0 J-G-ràphic Pens and 
 
 We endured the trials and delay of the Italian custom house at 
 Iselle. Coining down the pass we came very near having to re- 
 cord a .-crions accident. In turning one of the sharp corners ai a 
 very steep grade the horses attached to the diligence ran too near 
 the wall, breaking a whiffletree, and the coach wheels slid along 
 sideways, the hubs striking hard against the wall, and for a mo- 
 ment it seemed as though the passengers would be precipitated 
 into the abyss below. On account of many delays and the ex- 
 treme heat Ave did not arrive at Stresa. Lago Maffêiore, until 3 
 o'clock the next morning. If we had been on time we should 
 have been there at midnight. It is fifty miles from Vernayaz to 
 Brigue and we made seventy-five and one-half miles over the pass. 
 This completes the most of our diligence riding and we are very 
 glad of it. Our company showed that they were possessed of a 
 great deal of good nature under distressing circumstances. But 
 if the ride over it was so tedious, think what the impatience and 
 trials of the builders mus1 have been, it is recorded that Napo- 
 leon in his great anxiety to have the work completed, often 
 ashed : " ( ^nand le Cannon pourra-t-il done passer au Simplon '.' " 
 (When can cannon pass the Simplon?) To-dav (Aug. 2d) we 
 leave by diligence a1 2 P. M. for Arena, thence by rail to Milan, 
 expecting to arrive about 7 in the evening. Lago Maggiore is 
 thirty-seven miles long,' about lour and one-half wide, and its 
 greatest depth 2,800 feet. The water is, in color, very green and 
 so clear that the bottom can be seen through great depths. We 
 sailed on or bathed in its waters as suited our individual tastes. 
 
Funny Pencilling* in Europe. 
 
 59 
 
 MILAN CATIIEDEAL. 
 
60 Style-0 I-Graphic Pens and 
 
 MILAN. 
 
 Milan, Italy, Aug. 3. 
 We bid farewell to Stresa and Lago Maggiore at the time ap- 
 pointed and landed here on time last evening. Our impres- 
 sions of this city are good, hasty though they be. The Arcade 
 Victor Emanuel is a great and beautiful building and occupied 
 by shops and cafes. The dome is of glass and so is the part of 
 the roof which covers the arcade proper. There are 2,000 gas 
 jets, those in the dome being lighted by a little ear which runs 
 around on a circular railway. Here we find paper money which 
 we used to call " shinplasters " so that our gold (French) com- 
 mands a premium of from 8 to 10 per cent. We attended the 
 services at the great Milan Cathedral and viewed its relics even 
 to the ghastly, dried and grinning corpse of Si. Borromeo. The 
 chapel of St. Borromeo is one mass of jewels. The shrine and 
 Avails are silver inlaid with gold and precious stones, which must 
 have cost an enormous amount of wealth. Ascending the tower 
 (about three hundred and fifty feet) we saw a marvellous com- 
 bination of towers, pinnacles and representations in marble, of 
 thousands of flowers, leaves, etc.. There are 136 spires, 4,200 
 statues and 9,000 other ornaments. The whole structure is 
 not yet completed hut has cost 550,000,000 francs or $110,000,- 
 <HH). The expense of keeping it in repair exceeds $50,000 per 
 year. The roof is made of slabs of marble. The lofty ceiling 
 is frescoed in imitation of fan tracery, of the decorated gothic 
 style. We should not have detected the deception if our at- 
 tention had not been particularly called to it. There is also a 
 remarkable statue of St. Bartholomew, which represents him as 
 standing; with his own skin, including scalp, hanging over lus 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 61 
 
 shoulder, after lie had been flayed alive. I omitted mention of 
 the mountains seen from the tower. We .saw the Alpine range, 
 including Mt. Blanc, Monte Rosa, the St. Bernard and Matter- 
 horn, right away to the Superga and Mt. Cenis. Conscience up- 
 braided me somewhat fir walking around and viewing the church 
 while services were in progress, and I thought that should a party 
 of Europeans enter one of our own places of worship in a similar 
 way there would lie a call for the police. They seemed very 
 glad, however, to take our francs. Our next point was the paint- 
 ing by Leonardo da Vinci of the " Last Supper," which we found 
 in the refectory of a monastery adjoining the Church St. Maria 
 della Grrazie» I should not record this but for the sake of show- 
 ing how much we can rely upon commissioners and guides. Ours 
 ■ •.-saved to point out the différent Apostles, and we were getting 
 into something of a devout frame of mind, which was interrupted 
 by his pointing out St. Paul as having the finest head of all. A 
 Methodist clergyman kindly informed him that Paul was not eon- 
 verted until after Christ's ascension to heaven. 1 presume he 
 will go on repeating his story to future tourists just the same as 
 he always has. Some other places we took en route including the 
 arch commemorating the completion of the Simplon, and the 
 Palace of Ans and Sciences. At the last place we saw Raphael's 
 "Nuptials of the Virgin," and many other remarkable and unre- 
 markable pictures. 
 
 Miss Lillian Norton, of Boston, who is creating a great furore 
 in musical circles in Europe gave an impromptu concert lor our 
 special pleasure, in the parlors of the hotel. She is the same 
 lady of whom it is reported that while singing in Liverpool at 
 thr great hall there, she burst into tears on rendering the piece 
 •"I know that my Redeemer Liveth." The audience were in sym- 
 pathy with her, and afterwards unharnessed the horses from her 
 carriage and drew her in triumph to her hotel. She is very 
 beautiful, very modest and social. She has a wonderful voice, ami 
 its effect upon her hearers is almost electrical. 
 
62 Style-0 !-Geaphic Pens and 
 
 GENOA. 
 
 Genoa, Aug.' 1, 1879. 
 Leaving Milan at 8 A. M., we arrived here at 2 P. M.. and took 
 up our abode in the Hotel Croix de Malte. On. the ride to the 
 depot at Milan we saw a curions method for sprinkling the streets. 
 An enormous wooden vessel, similar in shape to a hogshead, was 
 mounted on wheels. It was drawn by mules, and from the rear 
 hung a perforated leather hose. To the end of the hose a cord six 
 feet long was attached, with which a man walking behind swung 
 it to and fro. an indication that labor is plenty and cheap. A 
 Large party have gone out to the Campo Santo, or cemetery, about 
 one and a half miles, but a small number, including the writer, 
 preferred a sail on the harbor. The King and Queen of Italy are 
 here, and a grand fete is going on. The city and harbdr are to 
 be illuminated this evening in their honor. There are four war 
 ships attending on the King, one of which, the Venezia, we 
 boarded. An officer kindly detailed a man to show us around. 
 She is armed with twenty Armstrong guns. The largest weighs 
 39,937 pounds, and is ten-inch bore. She has a bull-dog looking 
 bow. made for ramming other vessels. There was a fine looking 
 crew on board, a splendid lot of men physically. She had some 
 small cannon loi- use on deck, and T asked our sailor friend if they 
 had a "«ratling mitrailleuse/' but they had not. He said the 
 Italian navv did not use revolving cannon, at least nothing Larger 
 than hand revolvers. In walking through the narrow streets we 
 are alternately startled by foul odors and by mothers picking ver- 
 min from their offspring. The statue of Columbus, erected in 
 lSiii*. is a beautiful monument in white marble, adorned with re- 
 lievos representing incidents in the career of the great explorer, 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 
 
 63 
 
 and fine figures of Religion, Wisdom and Strength, and of Amer- 
 ica at the feet of her discoverer, is very near the Turin rail- 
 road station. 
 
 August 5. — Last evening several of us saw, for the first time in 
 our lives, a live King and Queen. The city was one blaze of 
 light, a magnificent scene long to be cherished in our memory. 
 The most remarkable display was on the Via Roma, which was 
 linn-', once in a hundred feet, with red lambrequins across the 
 street, the edge of the decorations being covered with gilt fringe. 
 Then there were candles and different colored lights in all of tin' 
 windows of the houses on cadi side, even the cornices being hung 
 with lanterns. Pendent from cords stretched across tin' street 
 were immense chandeliers, imitating flowers, with many colored 
 lights hanging from their centers, meant to represent stamens. 
 About 9 o'clock King Humbert (or Umberto) and his Queer (for- 
 merly Duchess of Milan) came along in their carriage through the 
 Via Roma to the theater. They were received with vociferous 
 welcomes by the immense concourse of people. 1 had a splendid 
 
64 Style-0 I-Gteaphic Pens and 
 
 position from which to view the procession and the royal couple. 
 The King is a fine looking man and the Queen, evidently much 
 gratified at the hearty cries of " Margarita," " Margarita," smiled 
 very prettily. She looked beautiful and radiant with happiness. 
 After their ascension into the theatre they .both appeared on the 
 outside balcony and again were cheered. We forgot that repub- 
 lics despise royalty, and with waving hats and hands cheered also. 
 The thought of the possibility of an attempt at assassination pass- 
 ed through my mind, but fortunately nothing happened to mar the 
 happiness of the occasion. At Naples, last fall, a man undertook 
 to shoot this same King, and the faithful subject who received the 
 bullet in his own body, thus protecting him, rode in the proces- 
 sion. To-day we visit the Cathedral, (founded in 1100) which is 
 beautifully inlaid with black and white marbles. The remains of 
 John the Baptist are said to be preserved there. As I am a Bap- 
 tist I suppose 1 must try to get up a great deal of interest before 
 I view those remains. I have a feeling, however, that in the 
 midst of so much humbuggery that it is just possible the remains 
 don't belong to the said John at all. 
 
 Having visited several places of interest and made copious 
 memoranda. I shall be obliged to slight much that we have, 
 seen here. We viewed the sarcophagus containing all the re- 
 mains of John the Baptist, as alluded to in my last. John must 
 have had five arms, for here there are the bones of two, and 
 three other churches in Europe each exhibit the bones of one 
 arm reputed to have been used by him. The Cathedral S. Lo- 
 renzo was profusely decorated and ornamented, in addition to its 
 regular attractions, but whether in honor of the King or not, I 
 am unable to say. The Ducal Palace, formerly the residence of 
 the Doges, the Jesuit church (S. Àmbrogio), which is noted for 
 its decorations, the Palazzo Brignolo Sale and other points were 
 taken in. At the last mentioned place are pictures by Van Dyck 
 and Reubens. 
 
Funny Pencilling^ in Europe. 65 
 
 PISA. 
 
 Pisa, Aug. 6. 
 
 We arrived here last evening, accomplishing the ride from 
 Genoa in six hours. The railroad runs very near the sea the 
 most of the way, and passes through eighty-four tunnels, one 
 of them being nearly two miles long. On our way one of the 
 occupants of our car discovered an insect peculiar to " Sunny 
 Italy," though sometimes seen elsewhere. It staid but a fleeting 
 moment, and so no further description can be given of it, except 
 to record that it made some marvellous leaps for liberty. 
 
 This town will be remembered by us more from the fact that 
 we got very little sleep than by its sights. The inhabitants must 
 be in the habit of sleeping by day and howling by night. The 
 pandemonium of noises was increased by clouds of persistent 
 mosquitos. so that altogether we passed a most miserable night. 
 The sight of a whole row of homoeopathic bottles on the bureau 
 in our room bore testimony to the fact that my chum, the Pro- 
 fessor, had had a very hard time of it. After a, fair break- 
 fast, at which the poor waiters caught a great deal of abuse by 
 our disgruntled crowd, we went to the Leaning Tower, which is 
 one hundred and seventy-nine feet high and stands thirteen feet 
 out of plumb, or perpendicular. Trying to decide for myseli 
 whether it was built as it stands, or settled while building, I 
 walked around it (dodging the stones which the imitators of 
 ( nvlileo were continually dropping from the top), but failing to dis- 
 cover any cracks in the masonry, I feel inclined to side with the 
 first idea. Two hundred and forty-seven steps take you to the 
 uppermost balcony, and looking down into the interior the per- 
 spective causes it to assume the appearance of a truncated coir'. 
 
<><'. Style-0 !-Graphic Pens and 
 
 The best sights of Pisa are all close together in the Piazza, del 
 Duomo. The Cathedral is very interesting on account of its beau^ 
 tiful marbles, paintings, remarkable- bronze doors, and last, not 
 Least, it contains the lamp whose swinging suggested to Galileo 
 the application and possibilities of the pendulum. The Baptistry 
 is a beautiful circular marble building, with a dome one hundred 
 and ninety feet high. The pulpit is a remarkable piece of work 
 by N. Pisano. The relievos will repay minute investigation. 
 Several of the supporting pedestals rest upon the backs of exquis- 
 itely moulded lions. The dome sends back, to the practiced singer. 
 a wonderful harmonic echo, which sounds as though a whole choir 
 were repeating the notes. Some of our singers united in " Sweet 
 By and By," but many voices made a promiscuous echo. Next 
 comes the Campo Santo, founded in 1188. Archbishop Ubaldo 
 brought fifty shiploads* of earth from the Holy Land for this cem- 
 etery, so that those who wished (and had money enough) might 
 rest in sacred ground. There are many curious paintings upon 
 the walls, one of which is intended to represent an orthodox Hell. 
 The f;iee of Napoleon I is traceable in the different stages of tor- 
 ment, and the whole presents a terrible combination. At lundi 
 we were informed that, as the water was very bad all along oui' 
 way to Pome we had better provide ourselves with some means 
 to quench our thirst. The sight we presented to one another as 
 we started from the hotel was laughable in the extreme. Clergy- 
 men and temperance reformers were carrying suspicious looking 
 bottles, as well as the " unregenerate." The bottles all contained 
 nothing but " cold tea" (?) If our photographs had been taken 
 and sent home, they would have created a great sensation in 
 some of our staid New England towns. The trip from Pisa to 
 Home took ten and one-half hours, and at midnight we were 
 comfortably quartered at theHotel Costanzi. Heretofore we 
 have had ice at table without charge, but now we each have to 
 pay about ten cents per day for it. 
 
Funny Penctllings in Europe. 67 
 
 ROME AND NAPLES. 
 
 Pome, August 7. 
 Here we are in charge of Mr. S. Russel Forbes, and to-day, 
 with him, we have seen St. Peter's, the Tomb of Hadrian, 
 Theater of Marcellus, Temple of Hercules, and the Church of 
 St. Paul, which Mr. Forbes says has the most beautiful interior 
 of any similar edifice in the world. Mosaics of all the Popes 
 adorn the walls, there being twenty-four places left, which, 
 when filled, the millennium will probably take place. The eyes 
 of Pope Linus are diamonds. The entrance is toward the Tiber 
 and is being finished very slowly. The mosaics on the front of 
 the church required thirteen years to complete Returning to 
 the interior we see the altar canopy supported by lour pillar- of 
 alabaster, the gift of Mahomet Ali, Pasha of Egypt; also two 
 large statues, one of St. Paul, the other of St. Peter. The 
 roof is marvellous: in fact, above, below and all around, the sight 
 of so much beauty makes the beholder almost believe that lie is 
 dreaming. As the name indicates, the church was built to com- 
 memorate the death of the great apostle. Although first erected 
 m Constantine's time, it is not the original structure, that having 
 been destroyed by fire in L823. We also visited Pons Potto, an 
 old bridge begun B. C. 181, and from which the body of Heliogo- 
 balus was thrown, after being dragged through the circus. Some 
 of the arches have fallen and a suspension bridge has taken their 
 place. Next, the site of the Pons Horatius where Iloratius fought 
 so bravely, and from the same point we saw T the Sacred Island. I 
 enumerate as briefly as possible the rest of the day's work : Tem- 
 ple of Fors Fortuna, Temple of Vesta or Hercules; The Grate of 
 St. Paolo, I'vramid of Pins Cestus, Temple of Antoninus Pius, 
 
68 Style-0 [-Graphic Pens and 
 
 and the Pantheon-. At the last place rest the remains of Victor 
 Emanuel, at the right of the altar, and at the left is the tomb of 
 Raphael. 
 
 Aug. 8. — Last evening Mr. Forbes gave us a lectnre on Ancient 
 Ftome as a sort of preparation for to-day's tour. He thinks that 
 the site of the first Christian church in Rome has been discovered 
 and is trying to get permission to excavate it, it being on property 
 belonging to the Pope. Pie has crept into it on his hands and 
 knees, and with lights discovered the Baptistry in which the cere- 
 mony of baptism, by immersion, was. performed. We are to pass 
 under two arches which Paul must have passed on his journey to 
 Pome. The programme for the morning is, the Vatican Museum, 
 Tarpeian Pock, Forum and Column of Trajan, Temple of Mars 
 Ultor, and a portion of the walls of Rome, also the Lateran church 
 and Scala Sancta. The afternoon takes in the Catacombs, Baths 
 of Caracalla and the church St. Peter in Vincoli (in chains.) 
 
 Saturday, Aug. 9. — The programme was successfully completed 
 yesterday, and this morning we go by rail to Naples, leaving here 
 at 9.20 A. M., and arriving there at 4 P. M. We were frightened 
 about the air and water of Pome, but on investigation we are in- 
 clined to pronounce many of the statements we have heard as al- 
 most pure fabrications. The water which we use is brought sixiy 
 miles and is the best we have had since leaving home. The air 
 at all times during our stay has been refreshing and seeming] y 
 pure. Our sleeping room windows have been open all night and 
 conduced to make this part of our stay very pleasant. Mr. 
 Forbes says there are no marshes within fourteen miles, and the 
 sea is only twelve miles distant, " as the bird flies." The streets 
 are kept very clean, and so far our impressions of the city are 
 very favorable. I noticed a peculiar custom the drivers of horses 
 and donkeys have adopted. In one of the shafts of the carts are 
 two wooden pins, beeween which is hung a small bundle of hay, 
 or straw, so that the animal can reach around and snatch a mouth- 
 ful as he travels along. The plan seemed to obviate the necessity 
 of stopping to feed their animals at noon. I noticed also that the 
 managers of the different equipages put a great deal of confidence 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 69 
 
 in their burdened beasts, for the most of them (the managers) 
 were fast asleep upon their loads. We walked in the sun, also, 
 without any experiencing any trouble, which calls to mind an 
 Italian saying, that " None but Englishmen and dogs walk in the 
 sun." We met a funeral in which the body of the dead was borne 
 on the shoulders of six men, and the procession consisted of friars 
 who, as they walked, sang a peculiar dirge. As they passed, people 
 uncovered their heads out of respect to the dead, a beautiful cus- 
 tom which would do us no harm to adopt in America, One or 
 two incidents in connection with our sight-seeing while here, and 
 I will close. The Scala Sancta or Sacred Stairs, purport to be 
 the stairs to Pilate's house, and to have been brought from Jeru- 
 salem by the mother of Constantine. By ascending these stairs 
 on one's knees (not allowable any other way) a thousand years' in- 
 dulgence is said to be secured. Two of our party, one a Protes- 
 tant and the other a Unitarian clergyman, went through the task. 
 A portion of the party were lost in the Catacombs for a while, 
 but were fortunately discovered by the guides. The Unitarian 
 clergyman was extremely frightened, and his anxiety came very 
 near producing a panic among the ladies. I judge from what I 
 am told that he was " not prepared to die." St. Peter's toe, (in 
 St. Peter's church,) or rather its image, was kissed by several 
 Protestants, and very fervently by the clergyman above referred to. 
 
 Naples, Aug. 9. — The distance from Rome here (127 miles) 
 was done in seven hours. Several of our excursionists preferred 
 to remain at Rome until we return there. Arriving at 4.20 
 P. M., after table d'hote, we took a sail on the bay, and the fresh 
 breeze was very welcome to us after our hot journey in the cars. 
 Vesuvius is smoking considerably, and once or twice during the 
 evenins; it sent forth lurid flames. 
 
 August 10 — Sunday. — After passing a miserable night, on ac- 
 count of the attacks of myriads of mosquitoes, we are inclined to 
 think that the party that staid back were wise. We notice many 
 children on the streets in nature's garb, and they seem to be very 
 happy in spite of their poverty. The way they load the donkeys 
 here calls for the interference of another Bereh. Invariably the 
 
70 
 
 Sti le-0 [-Graphic Pens and 
 
 smaller the donkey the larger the load. Our conductors had ar- 
 ranged a scheme for sight-seeing to-day which was emphatically 
 " sat down " upon by the clergymen, backed up by a large ma- 
 jority of the laymen among us. A large party have chartered 
 a steamer to take them to the famous Blue Grotto on the island 
 of Capri. While they are gone the faithful few are writing- 
 letters home, wandering about the streets, visiting some of the 
 Churches and the Museum. Some are probably reading the 
 Bible and meditating upon holy things. 
 
 August 11. — About thirty of us drove to Vesuvius this morn- 
 ing. We started at midnight, arriving at the hermitage, the end 
 of the carriage road, at 4 A. M. Fifteen attempted the ascent to 
 the cone or crater, two of the party being ladies. There were 
 more than fifty guides awaiting us, and every one of them pro- 
 ceeded to make himself a nuisance. Most of us successfully ac- 
 complished the wearisome task without the help of guides, 
 although the fellows walked along, sometimes in front, hindering 
 us, and then dropping to the rear with many a " Sacre." One of 
 them kindly informed me about one hundred and flftv times, 
 
Funny Penctllings in Europe. 71 
 
 " You no gette top, you too much fattee." Just as we stood upon 
 the summit the sun and wind drove away the cloud within which 
 we had been enveloped, and we proceeded down into the crater. 
 There are two points from which fire issues, and from one of them 
 at nearly regular intervals the melted lava spouted forth, requir- 
 ing us to keep a lookout to see that none of it dropped on to us. 
 There are many deep fissures in the lava over which we walked, 
 and from which came the disagreeable fumes of carbonic acid gas. 
 The mountain seems to be getting uneasy, and there are indict 
 tions that it is getting ready for another eruption. The last one 
 occurred in 1872. The ascent occupied about two hours, but the 
 descent was easily done in ten minutes. Jumping into the ashes, 
 which are almost like small gravel, every leap we took would send 
 us down about ten feet. A great deal of care was needed to lift 
 our feet clear, for a stumble or trip would have sent us rolling to 
 the foot of the hill. Those who wore shoes could sympathize with 
 the people who formerly did penance by walking on pebble stones. 
 Of course we brought away many specimens of lava as souvenirs, 
 and some put copper into the melted lava which was thrown out, 
 and after it had cooled it made a very pleasing memento. 
 
 This afternoon we did Pompeii, which is fourteen miles from 
 Naples, by rail. We saw men at work excavating, viewed the 
 various places of interest, and bought some photographs of the 
 ruins at a very low rate. 
 
 The weather is fearfully hot and sultry, and we start on our jour- 
 ney back to Borne with pleasant anticipations of finding it cooler 
 there. The party that went to Capri failed to see the Grotto, the 
 sea beina; too rouç-h to allow them to enter the narrow and low 
 passage into the cave. 
 
 Eome, Italy, Aug. 12, 1879.— We arrived here at 1 P. M. to- 
 day. My last letter was very short, and was in keeping with the 
 general feeling of our party. We had to spend too much time 
 fighting flies, fleas and mosquitoes to further burden ourselves 
 with lengthy eorrespondenee. Being in a better mood I wish to 
 record a few observations about Naples and its vicinity. They 
 use very peculiar harnesses on the donkeys, horses and other 
 
72 Style-0 ! -Graphic Pens and 
 
 animals used to draw their nondescript vehicles. The ends of the 
 shafts of all their carts and wagons are elevated about one foot 
 above the backs of the burdened beasts, and some of the rigs were 
 very picturesque and ornamental. I have already written how 
 they overload, but I actually counted fourteen persons on a two- 
 wheeled vehicle, drawn by a donkey that could not weigh over one 
 hundred pounds. Mr. Forbes informs me that they found a Ma- 
 sonic temple at Pompeii. A table dug from the ruins has Masonic 
 emblems upon it, and the hall in which it was found shows unmis- 
 takable evidence of once having been a lodge. 
 
 There are some portions of the ruins of Pompeii that are only 
 shown to gentlemen. The frescoes on the walls of the structures 
 referred to are remarkably well preserved and grossly indecent 
 testifying to the fact that the city was as wicked as many of our 
 modern cities are now. The streets are extremely narrow and 
 the pavements are deeply worn into ruts by the passing of the 
 chariot wheels. So we leave the city so suddenly overwhelmed 
 eighteen hundred years ago. I cannot refrain from recording the 
 dearth of knowledge displayed by one of our travelers. He ac- 
 tually asked the guard why it was that they had let the city " get 
 buried up so." The guide, evidently used to similar queries, 
 soberly explained it. 
 
 August 13. — Yesterday afternoon was given to us for indepen- 
 dent action, but to-day we have again been in charge of Mr. S. 
 Russel Forbes. His explanations are remarkably clear and con- 
 cise. I have an idea that, if Julius Caesar was to wake from his 
 slumber in the Roman Forum, Mr. F. could tell him many things 
 about the old city that he never knew. We visited the Forum 
 Romanum, Coliseum, Palace of the Caesars, Capuchin Monastery. 
 Barberini Palace, and ended by driving to the hill of St. Peter and 
 taking in a panoramic view 01 the city. The place which most 
 interested me was the Forum Romanum. We suppose we stood 
 on the spot where Cicero declaimed and where Marc Antony 
 harangued the multitude after the assassination of Caesar. The 
 place, in the Via Sacra, where Virginias killed his daughter to 
 prevent her falling into the hands of Appius Claudius (449 B. C.) 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 
 
 73 
 
 VAULT OF CAPUCHIN MONASTERY. 
 
74 Style-0 !-Geaphic Pens and 
 
 was also pointed out. Another interesting point was the Palace 
 of the <J;rsars. This was the property of Napoleon III, and the 
 work of excavating it was carried on up to the date of the bat- 
 tle of Sedan, on which day the workmen finished uncovering the 
 House of Germanicus. On the site "of the House of Romulus 
 stand the oldest stone arches in the world, erected 730 B. (J. 
 
 The Capuchin Convent left a horrible and indelible impression 
 on our minds. . In the cemetery beneath the church rest, for a 
 while, in consecrated earth brought from Jerusalem, the remains 
 of the friars belonging to the Convent. But the space is small. 
 and when a brother dies it is customary to take up the body of 
 the one longest buried and place it with its brown gown still en- 
 folding it, in a niche in the w T all, thus making room for the latest 
 victim of death. When all the niches in the chapel are full, then,, 
 in the order of their death, the skeletons are pulled apart and 
 either piled up in regular order around the room, or used to make 
 grotesque shapes on the walls in imitation of stucco or fresco 
 work. Even chandeliers hang pendant from the ceiling, composed 
 entirely of dead men's bones. Many of the skulls have inscrip- 
 tions on them. I noticed the dead monks did not give forth such 
 disagreeable odors as did the living one who let us into the build- 
 ing. From the grave to art is a sudden, but in this case an ex- 
 tremelv pleasant, transition. Our next visit was to the Barberini 
 Palace, where we gazed on Guido Reni's picture of Beatrice Cenci,. 
 which our guide says cannot be Beatrice, for the reason that 
 Guido did not come to Rome until ten years after her death. He 
 also informed us that it was the portrait of Guide's sweetheart. 
 [ [< • had good taste when he fell in love with that beautiful face. 
 Of course we studied Cortona's fresco representing the Triumph 
 of Glory. At the casino in the Rospigliosi Palace we saw that 
 wonderful production of Guido, called the Aurora, and reluctant- 
 ly declined to buy the many copies urged upon us. And now, 
 turning unwillingly from our superficial glance at Rome, we 
 turn our faces northward to Florence, remembering that as 
 " Rome was not built in a day," therefore even its faded glories 
 cannot be described within the confines of an ordinary letter. 
 
jb'uNNY Pencillings in Euegpe. 
 
 (0 
 
 Let me say, for the benefit of any of my readers who may be 
 archaeological monomaniacs, a work on researches in Rome, writ- 
 ten by Mr. S. II. Forbes, is to be published soon. I doubt not it 
 will be very interesting, especially to those who have had the al- 
 most inestimable privilege of roaming over the works he de- 
 scribes. 
 
 ARCH OF TITUS. 
 
76 Style-0 [-Graphic Pens and 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 Florence, Aug. 15. 
 
 We arrived here about 7 o'clock last evening. The journey of 
 two hundred and thirty-two miles was without special incident. 
 Contrary to our expectations we find the weather very tolerable. 
 We are all enjoying a fair degree of health, which is remarkable, 
 considering the time of year. 
 
 Several of the members of our company are inclined to be 
 jocose. One "good thing," among many fired off by them, I feel 
 it my duty to record. You may remember of my describing our 
 exodus from the hotel at Pisa with sundry bottles under our arms 
 which were supposed to contain cold tea. On the cars some one 
 asked if it was safe, in and about Rome, to go unarmed. Mr. H. 
 replied that he thought the crowd w T ere pretty well armed now — 
 " with grape shot." His shot produced roars of laughter. In my 
 last I spoke of the case of a gentleman who asked why Pompeii 
 was allowed to be buried. In conversation with a lady about it, 
 she told me that when we first caught sight of Mt. Blanc a certain 
 nameless person looked anxiously for the smoke he supposed is- 
 sued from the top, and said he " never expected to see snow on the 
 sides of a volcano." Supposing him to be chaffing she drew out 
 the fact that he was in sober earnest. Fortunately such instances 
 of misinformation are few among us. Many laughable incidents 
 occur from day to day that serve to relieve us of many a hearty 
 laugh. In buying lunch at the stations, when en route, not know- 
 ing the language, we select such articles as we want, and guessing 
 how much the price should be, we hand out about twice the 
 amount. When change is returned, we carefully count it, look 
 wise, and give an assenting nod. During the last evening of our 
 
Funny Pencilling^ in Europe. . 77 
 
 stay in Eome several young ladies and gentlemen so far paid re- 
 spect to ancient tradition as to go down to the fountain of Trevi 
 and deposit a sou and drink of the water, so that, if the tradition 
 Le reliable, they are sure to return at some future day. While I 
 write a good Methodist parson suggests that, "like Hannibal, we 
 are foraging on the fat of the land." His remark is literally true, 
 for our potatoes are fried in oil, and the salad always swims in 
 tin' same oleaginous fluid. The parson referred to is an inveter- 
 ate punster, and among the hundreds perpetrated by him was au 
 extraordinary one in a most gloomy place, which makes it the 
 more deserving. It was : Why are the Catacombs like modern 
 cannon ? Because they have been rifled, which refers to the fact 
 that robbers have despoiled them of their precious contents. This 
 gives me a good opportunity to say that there are seventy Cata- 
 combs containing over one thousand miles of galleries. To-day 
 being a religious holiday, the picture galleries were all closed, so 
 we went to the following places : The Baptistry, which was built 
 from the remains of a pagan temple ; the bronze doors facing the 
 cathedral are marvelous works of art, and M. Angelo said of them 
 that they were worthy to be the gates of Paradise. Next came 
 the Duomo, which has a wonderful, mighty mosaic exterior of 
 marble. The dome of this structure is higher than that of St. 
 Paul or St. Peter's, being three hundred and fifty-two feet from 
 the base. In the Tiazza S. Croce stands an immense statue of 
 Dante, and back of it is the Church of Santa Croce, which was 
 commenced in 1294. The great interest here is in the fact that 
 many great men either rest here, or have monuments to perpet- 
 uate their names; namely, Michael Angelo, Dante, Galileo and 
 Machiavelli. 
 
 After dinner we took carriages tor a two-hours' drive in and 
 •about the city, going to the Protestant cemetery, where, among 
 others, Theodore Parker and Mrs. Browning lie buried. From 
 the cemetery we went to the Boboli Gardens and vicinity, where 
 we had a pleasing bird's eye view of the city, and from which, 
 with.the aid of a field glass, we got a good look at the former 
 observatory of Galileo. At the same, we saw the many bridges 
 
78 
 
 S t v i i e-C ) ! -( ; i : a i ■ 1 1 j i ■ Pens and 
 
 ,THE WRESTLERS 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 
 
 79 
 
 which unite the city across the river Arno. One of these, a 
 •stone arch, was built in 1237, and has withstood many floods 
 which have at one time and another swept the other bridges 
 away. One bridge is a " two-story affair," that is, there are two 
 bridges, one set upon the other. At present the bed of the river 
 is almost dry, very little water passing through it, and at times it 
 gives forth obnoxious odors. I neglected to mention that at one 
 of the churches we attended, we had the pleasure of seeing a live 
 Cardinal, also a, long procession, and hearing a grand mass. 
 
 There was an episode took place there which we could not get 
 explained and did not understand. While the ceremonies were 
 going on one of the gorgeously robed priests seemed to be out of 
 order, and immediately his vestments were stripped from him, he 
 resisting stoutly. We thought there was going to be a first-class 
 row, but it may be it was a. part of the show, and all ''on the 
 bills." 
 
 ST. PETER S, ROME. 
 
80 Style-0 I-Gtraphic Pens and 
 
 VENICE. 
 
 Venice, Italy, Aug. 18. 
 We left Rome at 7 last evening, rode one hundred and eighty- 
 three miles, arriving here at dawn. It was a novel and pleasing 
 experience to be borne in gondolas from the depot to our hotel on 
 the banks of the Grand Canal. Of course it took a great many 
 boats to carry us all, and the gondoliers seemed to vie with one 
 another as to which should land his boat first, so that we had sev- 
 eral exciting races. The landlord of the hotel stepped from one 
 boat to the other as we sped along, announcing to each one the 
 number of their room. After breakfasting; the larger number 
 took to their couches in order to make up for the loss of sleep 
 
 while en route. The ride from Florence to Boloç-na is rendered 
 
 o 
 
 somewhat unpleasant from the fact that, unless close attention is 
 paid to the windows, the cars arc filled with smoke and gas. by 
 reason of the numerous tunnels which have be passed. Thera are 
 no less than forty-five of them, one or two being over a mile long. 
 I should judge the cost of constructing that railroad, for the 
 eighty-two miles, must have been enormous. It being Sunday, 
 of course no regular sight-seeing programme could lie arranged, 
 but we could walk about and visit the churches and see the pig- 
 eons in St. Mark's square. Here, more than in any city we have 
 yet seen, does the (what we call) disregard of the Sabbath, reign 
 supreme among the inhabitants. In the evening a large band 
 discourse music in the square above referred to, and at hundreds 
 of small tables sat thousands of people eating, drinking and 
 carousing, while many more promenaded around the same. On 
 this beautiful square is the wonderful cathedral of St. Mark, with 
 its domes and Byzantine ornamentations. Here are the four 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe, 
 
 81 
 
82 Style-0 I-Gtraphic Pens and 
 
 bronze horses which Napoleon I took to Paris in 1797, but which 
 were brought back in 1815. Thev formerly surmounted the arch 
 of Nero at Rome. The guide honk says: "Five hundred col- 
 umns of valuable and choice marbles were gathered from all parts 
 of the world ; marbles were once demanded from vessels coming 
 eastward as harbor tithes lor the embellishment of the city.'' 
 The clock tower near the church is a curious and interesting 
 structure. The face of the dock has the hours upon it from one 
 to twenty-four, and the tower is surmounted by two giants, in 
 full view from the street, which strike the bell at the hour. On 
 fete and special days there is a procession of wise me]] of the east, 
 conducted by on angel to pay honor to the figure of the Virgin 
 in the center. The mechanism is complex and shows that some 
 mind wasted its genius. Opposite the church is a square brick 
 towei- three hundred and seventy-five feet high, capped by a pyra- 
 mid called the Campanile. Instead of steps the ascent is made 
 by means of inclined planes. Napoleon rode his horse up it, so, 
 of course, we had to ■"hoof it" to the top, which well repaid us 
 on account of the view we had of beautiful Venice. After dinner, 
 and also after sundown, Ave ordered our gondolas, in the same way 
 we should order our carriages at home, for a trip in and about the 
 city. Two extremely pleasant and memorable hours were spent 
 looking at the outside of the different palaces and public build- 
 ings. During a sudden shower we rested under the shelter of 
 the Rialto bridge, which was built in 1588, and is one hundred 
 and fifty-eight feet Long, forty-six wide and thirty high. Its 
 foundations rest on 12,000 piles. The city being built upon a 
 cluster of small islands, the different portions are united bv more 
 than three hundred bridges. The grand canal is the great artery 
 of the city and may well be called its marine Broadwav, The price 
 tor a gondola, with one oarsman, is very reasonable; my ride, 
 there being three others in partnership with me, cost only fifty 
 centimes or ten cents. In front of the houses, palaces and land- 
 ing places, stand many piles, which are driven for the double pur- 
 pose of tieing the boats and to fend them off the walls. Many 
 of them, (the piles), are painted in fanciful colors and are topped 
 
Funny Pencilling^ in Europe. 83 
 
 by ornamental wooden caps. Piles also stand at the corners of 
 the '" streets," to keep the frail craft from marring or scraping 
 their sides against the brick or marble, although the boatmen, 
 with remarkable dexterity, hardly ever hit them. The popula- 
 tion numbers 128,000, and one in four are paupers, so says " the 
 book," but it seems as though more than half were nearer right 
 judging from appearances. There being no use for beasts of 
 burden, it is worth remarking that it is very pleasant to .miss the 
 rattle, hurry, skurry and bang incident to the large cities. Our 
 sleep continues until late in the morning, undisturbed by the in- 
 fernal yells, whoops and jargon which we had to endure at Naples, 
 Pvome and some other places. 
 
 August 18. — To-day we visited the Doges Palace. Adjective 
 might be piled upon adjective until the English language was ex- 
 hausted, and then the failure to describe its solid walls and gorge- 
 ous interior would be complete. Ruskin says " The multitude of 
 works by various masters which cover the walls of this place is so 
 great, that the traveler is in general merely confused and wearied 
 by them." 
 
 In the council hall of the palace, where the portraits of the 
 Doges of Venice are religiously preserved, a black drapery covers 
 .the spot intended for that of Falieri. hearing the inscription : — 
 Spazio di Marino Falieri Decapitato. 
 
 His anger at one nobleman, who tried to blacken the fame of 
 his wife, caused him to head a conspiracy whose purpose was to 
 •exterminate all the nobility. He failed and was beheaded, as the 
 inscription shows. For five hundred years his name has been 
 blackened ; an instance of punishment after death. 
 
 We crossed and recrossed the Bridge of Sighs, which connects 
 the palace with the prisons. The dungeons underneath the build- 
 ing were also explored. Each cell has a small aperture to admit 
 food. We were shown the stone on which the executions took 
 place, and the little door which admitted the bow of the gondola to 
 receive the lifeless body and carry it out to be dropped into the 
 Adriatic. In the afternoon, by means of gondolas, we visited the 
 tombs of Titian and Canova, a glass factory and the Pesaro Palace. 
 
84 Style-0 î-Gtraphic Pens and 
 
 Venice is a good place to buy pictures, especially photographs 
 of the masterpieces of great painters. Jewelry, shell and glass 
 work arc also offered at very reasonable prices as compared with 
 what we have heretofore found. 
 
 I am proud of the fact that American Greenbacks are exchanged, 
 by the brokers here, at 1" per rent, premium, being equal to 
 English gold. This is true for many of our party have tested it 
 by turning their money into Italian paper. Here, as elsewhere 
 in the art galleries, we have met with what would seem to be fla- 
 grant specimens of the nude in painting and sculpture, in pass- 
 ing through a corridor of the Doges Palace, which contained 
 manv statues, of the kind referred to, our guide stated that they 
 were brought from Greece by one of the Sovereigns, which gave 
 an elderly lady an opportunity to remark that they "had better 
 carry them right back again." Our stay here lias been very pleas- 
 ant, and among the many beautiful visions fastened on our mem- 
 ory, Venice will ever stand out in lull relief. 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 85 
 
 MUNK'H. 
 
 Munich, Bavaria,, Aug. 20, 1879. 
 
 The journey from Venice, on the afternoon of the 19th, took 
 us to Verona, occupying about three hours. Taking carriages, we 
 drove to Diocletian's Amphitheater, second in size and grandeur 
 to the Coliseum at Rome. It is five hundred and six feet in 
 length by four hundred and four in width, one hundred and six 
 feet high, with seventy-two arches and forty-five tiers of seats 
 around the arena. By paying five cents we were admitted to the 
 interior, where we found a theater in full play. A wooden build- 
 ing contained the stage and the actors. There being no pro- 
 grammes we cannot record what the play was, but it seemed to 
 please the Veronese audience, for they broke out in frequent ap- 
 plause. There was a bride dressed in white satin and long veil, 
 who was evidently in trouble amounting almost to despair'. When- 
 ever a certain man appeared, she would weep, rave, rant and tear 
 around generally, about the same as stage heroines do at homo. 
 The thought " struck me very forcibly," as they say in prayer 
 meetings, that the scene was a very tame one, as compared with 
 
 many that have 1 n enacted there in the years gone by. The 
 
 tomb of Juliet, where Juliet's remains are not, also engaged our 
 attention ; and additional interesting points Were the Town Hall, 
 Scaliger Monuments, ami another Cathedral of the fourteenth 
 century. This is the time and this is the place for me to interpo- 
 late the fact that we are bored, seriously bored with th •' cathe- 
 dral business." 
 
 In order to go over the Brenner Pass we had to take the train 
 at 1 on the morning of the 20th, the date of this letter. The bass 
 itself, for centuries the route by which the Venetian merchants 
 
8ti Style-0 .'-Graphic Pens and 
 
 passed into Germany, was long the most frequented in Europe. 
 
 The railroad is a wonderful monument to the skill and perseve-- 
 rance of its projectors and executors. Its highest point is at the 
 Brenner Station (4.490 feet). In the fifty miles between Inns- 
 bruck and Brixen there arc twenty-three tunnels, two of whieh 
 are curved, and one describes a parabola, reissuing from the side of 
 the mountain several hundred yards lower than where it entered. 
 
 We had to endure two custom-house examinations, one when 
 we entered Austria and also at Kufstein. On our arrival here, 
 about 7 T. M.,we unfortunately found that the party must be sub- 
 divided into three sections, on account of the hotels having a great 
 run of custom from visitors to an art exhibition, whieh is now in 
 progress. 
 
 August 21. — The change from the decayed and decaying mag- 
 nificence of Italian cities to the more solid, substantial, yet beau- 
 tiful city of Munich, is a pleasant surprise to us. In this tour we 
 have proved to us the truth of the old saving that " Variety is the 
 spice of life." We have thought that the latter part of our jour- 
 nev would begin to pall, and all at once we are in the midst of some- 
 thing which tills its with joy and wonder. The difference in the 
 looks and carriage of the people, the sort of independent, go- 
 ahead air they have, also adds to oui' delight and brings up a feel- 
 ing that Ave are among men who can be trusted. We visited the 
 great bronze statue of Bavaria, which is. including the pedestal, 
 ninety-six feet high. It is the figure of a woman standing with 
 sheathed sword, and holding aloft with one hand a wreath, while 
 at her side is a sitting lion. The guide hook says her mouth is 
 fifteen inches wide. It was cast from cannon captured in differ- 
 ent wars, mostly from the Turks, and weighs sixty-lour tons. 
 Back of and around the statue is a building called the Hall of 
 Fame, in the corridors of which are busts of men famous in the 
 kingdom of Bavaria. We also drove through a very fine tri- 
 umphal arch called the Arch of Victory. 
 
 In the afternoon we explored a church called Basilica Boniface 
 and modeled after St. Paul's at Koine, bui to which, except in 
 shape, it bears no comparison. Thence to the new Pinacotheck 
 
Funny Lencillings in Europe. 87 
 
 or picture gallery. Among the many remarkable paintings by 
 famous masters, we were specially impressed by four pictures : 
 Two by Reubens, entitled The Last Judgment and The Massacre 
 of the Innocents. Both pictures are terrible productions, and as 
 one sits and studies them, feelings of awe and terror gradually 
 get the mastery. The other two are by Donner and represent 
 heads of an old man and an old woman. The wrinkled cheeks, 
 neck and forehead are marvellously done. The short, gray and 
 stubbed beard of the man is excellent, while the velvet cap on his 
 head is so well portrayed as seemingly to change its sheen in the 
 varying light. Of course no one would conic to Munich and go 
 away without seeing the royal palaces. King Ludwig II, who 
 occupies the new palace, is twenty-six years old and unmarried. 
 Judging from his picture he is a good man and trustworthy. We 
 saw the bed on which he sleeps now. and another on which lie is 
 to receive curtain lectures when he gets married. While upon 
 the subject of beds, we saw one in the old palace, made for Maxi- 
 milian Emanuel, which was gorgeous with crimson and gold, and 
 which occupied forty men ten years to fabricate, costing $500,000. 
 In the next room was a remarkable mosaic table in marbles and 
 lapis lazuli, which cost 120,000 marks — are-mark-able piece of 
 furniture indeed. One room, called the Japanese department, as 
 its name indicates, is ornamented in the Japanese style. The 
 chandelier in this room was carved by Maximilian Emanuel, who 
 was a skilled worker in ivory. We looked upon tapestry hanging 
 in different rooms, some of it made two hundred and sixty years 
 ago at Lyons, which apparently was nearly as fresh and beautiful 
 as when it was new. the only sign of age being the loss of lustre 
 in the gold threads. The grand marble staircase leading up into 
 the palace no one but members of the nobility are allowed to 
 ascend or tread upon. The Loyal Chapel is a fine structure, hav- 
 ing two frescoed domes, one representing the Old and the other 
 the New Testament. From the chapel we turned our steps to the 
 ball room, thence to the picture galleries, where there were por- 
 traits of court beauties. One of the ante-rooms, frescoed in imita- 
 tion of the Pompeiian style, was designed and executed by the 
 
88 Style-0 1-G-raphic Pens and 
 
 court painter. The Throne Room was a gorgeous affair, and some 
 of the young ladies tried to ascend the throne, intending to scat 
 themselves in the King's chair, but the keepers suppressed their 
 desires, with horror depicted on their faces, at their wantof rever- 
 ence. Some of the flours are of marble, but most of them are of 
 inlaid woods, laid out in regular geometrical figures and very fine 
 specimens of what time, money and skill can accomplish. The 
 whole structure in extent and detail, equals if not exceeds tin.' 
 most of the palaces we have seen. Our day's work, you may 
 judge, left us Very tired, but in the evening many went to the 
 English Gardens, and hoard some good music from the orchestra 
 stationed there, and some tried the famous Munich beer. I 
 ought to have stated that we visited the government bronze foun- 
 dry- In the Museum connected with the establishment are the 
 modds of the most important productions. Among them are the 
 equestrian statue of Washington, Lincole and the Slave, Daniel 
 
 Webster, Edward Everett, &c. The city of Richmond has 1 n 
 
 a great patron, having had statues of Washington, Marshall, Jef- 
 ferson, Mason. Lewis and Henry. 
 
 Aug. '2'2. — To-day we intended to have gone to Stuttgart, hut 
 the majority preferring to remain her. ■.that city will he passed to- 
 morrow. Visiting the National Museum, where there is much that 
 is interesting in the way of curiosities and aged historical relics, 
 we saw among the collection the largest piece of topaz in the 
 world, many ancient clocks, dating back to 1679, one of the wheels 
 of the first carriage used in Bavaria in 1709, and beautiful vest- 
 ments from the year 1380 up to the present time. The Royal 
 Brewery being near, we went down just to sec German life in one 
 of its phases, and were well repaid. A\ ashing our mug. which is 
 the custom, we fell into line and passing over our thirty-five pfen- 
 nigs (8 cent -i we got our hen- and a biscuit. The mugs are made 
 from potter's clay, having the same appearance as the earthen- 
 ware manufactured at the pottery in Newark, and hold a little 
 more than a quart. I saw only one German who gave any signs 
 of intoxication, and he had a ///:" quart mug. As he walked he 
 lifted his feet rather high and had to "brace up" quite often. 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 89 
 
 Tell it not at the Hub. I actually came across some Boston ladies 
 sampling the beer, but as they besought me to " keep it dark/' 
 their names shall not appear. The natural beauty of the ladies 
 was heightened by the blushes which mantled their cheeks when 
 tlif author informed them that he was as ashamed of being there 
 as they evidently were. 
 
 The quantity of beer there imbibed may be judged from the 
 recent observations of a visitor, as recorded in a German news- 
 paper. "At thirty-five minutes past ten in the forenoon two fresh 
 hogsheads were tapped. One of them was empty at forty-eight 
 minutes, and the other at fifty-one minutes past ten. This would 
 be about 1,600 glasses sold in sixteen minutes — doubtless an ex- 
 ceptional occurrence even there." 
 
 This afternoon, in company with two others, I entered the art 
 exhibition in the Crystal Palace. I am told that it is held once in 
 ten years. One of the more remarkable pictures, is one by A. 
 Remeradlki. Two Circassian merchants have offered for sale to a 
 wealthy Roman citizen a beautiful slave girl .and a vase of rare 
 workmanship. The Roman cannot afford to buy both and he is 
 deliberating which he shall choose. The girl is tightly held by the 
 wrist by one of her owners, and stands with averted face and fright- 
 ened expression. A servant stands leaning upon a chair, evidently 
 thinking that he would rather have the girl. Some of the statu- 
 ary was very fine. One piece represents a nude slave girl, who is 
 struggling and writhing, trying to free herself from the manacles 
 encircling her wrists. Another is Pharaoh's daughter finding 
 Moses. The statue is appropriately placed on the side of a foun- 
 tain surrounded by shrubbery, which adds greatly to the effect. 
 Mention must be made of a painting which pleased me very much. 
 A fisherman has hauled his boat upon the beach and is engaged 
 in repairing it. His bronzed, weather-beaten face, his old, tern, 
 patched and faded shirt, are all true to nature and all combine to 
 make a noticeable picture. There are two very large paintings, 
 one of them representing the crowning of William at Versailles, 
 as Emperor of all Germany, the other is the battle of Sedan. A 
 bust named Uncle Tom, was neatly executed. The head was of 
 
90 
 
 Style-0 !-Geaphic Pens and 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 91 
 
 bronze, and in some way an old straw hat, cut from marble, cov- 
 ered it. So well was this hat done that we actually thought some 
 boy, or wag, had placed it there, until a closer examination re- 
 vealed the truth. 
 
 Now, a gallant word or two in praise of the German ladies. 
 Many of them are employed as clerks in the shops, and their in- 
 variable good nature and the readiness they showed to give us 
 information, quite won our hearts. Their pleasant smiles often 
 brightened our path, while their decollte dresses, trimmed with 
 pretty laces, displaying wealth of bust and shoulder, also added 
 to their charms, and the glances bestowed on us made us think of 
 "And soft eyes looked love to eyes that spake again." A few 
 statistics and dry facts, and we will leave Munich. Twenty gal- 
 lons of beer per year is the average to each man, woman ami 
 child. The population of Bavaria is 4,863,450, there being three 
 and one-half millions Catholics, and 5,000 Jews. No marriages, 
 between persons without capital, are allowed, except by consent 
 •of the poor officers. As a natural consequence over one-halt the 
 births are illegitimate. 
 
92 Style-0 !-Gkaphic Pens and 
 
 HEIDELBURG. 
 
 Heidelbueg, Aug. 24, 1879. 
 The journey to-day from Munich was begun at 6.40 A. M., and 
 ended here at 3.30 P. M., in time for us to visit the castle. At 
 Ulm we crossed the "Blue " Danube, which gave us the only sight 
 we shall get of that river. At the castle, which is half palace 
 and half fortress, we spent two pleasant hours and of course saw 
 the monstrous " Heidelburg Tun," and danced on it, which per- 
 formance is said to insure one against headache. In one apart- 
 ment is a great chimney, where they used to roast a whole ox at 
 once. From the tower a fine view of the city, the river and valley 
 of the Neckar and the Black Forest is presented. Many of us 
 attended services at one of the most interesting, historically, 
 churches in Europe, namely, the church of the Holy Ghost. 
 Founded in 1398, it remained until 1545 the property of the 
 Catholics, and shifted back and forth between the Lutherans, 
 Catholics and Reformers. Reform was begun in this church by 
 expelling the priests who said mass, and by Protestant preaching. 
 This was in the year 1546, before the reformation had been 
 established by law. The object of bitter strife, into which the 
 Empire was drawn, it was in 1705 divided by a wall, one-half 
 being given to the Catholics, and the other to the Protestants. 
 In 1719, the Elector, Charles Phillip, by promising to build a 
 new edifice in another part of the city, tried to have the Protes- 
 tants vacate, but they refusing, he drove them out, and re- 
 moved the dividing wall. The Reformers appealed to the Diet, 
 and the wall was again restored, and so stands to-day, Catholic 
 service going on on one side and Protestant on the other. From 
 here we go to Frankfort, and Tuesday we expect to enjoy a stay 
 at Weisbaden. 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 93 
 
 WEISBADEN. 
 
 Weisbaden, Germany, Aug.. 25, 1879. 
 
 A,few words about how much knowledge of the languages is 
 necessary to travelers in Europe. To start with, one can get 
 along without knowing any of them, except, of coarse, his verna- 
 cular. An observing person can pick up a great many words and 
 expressions, which help wonderfully. In making purchases I 
 have invariably found that prices were higher in the stores where 
 they have signs in the windows, " English Spoken," than at other 
 places. When buying, it is better to understand the figures spok- 
 en, although the obliging shop-keeper is ever ready to mark them 
 with pen or pencil. A knowledge of the money of the country 
 in which one may be, is indispensable. We began with the Eng- 
 lish coins, but about the time we got the " hang of it" we had to set 
 our wits at work to master French money, which, to our surprise, 
 was easily done. It is amusing, when we go shopping with the 
 ladies, to have them turn to us and ask, " How much is that in 
 our money ? " that being the only means they have of knowing 
 whether the article is " cheap " or not, and the way they turn 
 their pretty heads and arch their eyebrows as they deliberate, is 
 enough to turn the heads of susceptible men. 
 
 In Paris, and throughout France, and Switzerland, a very use- 
 ful word to know, when buying tickets, hiring carriages, or shop- 
 ping, is " Combien " (how much ?) To spell out the peculiar pro- 
 nunciation is very difficult, but as near as possible it is congbeang. 
 When speaking it, if you don't care for appearances, you will get 
 it nearly right by closing the nostrils between the thumb and 
 linger, or by using a patent spring clothes pin instead of the 
 fingers. In Italy, " Quanta eosta " stands for the same exprès- 
 
94 Style-0 .'-Graphic Pens and 
 
 sion, and very useful are the words " Troppo caro " which, with a 
 vigorous shake of the head, means too much, or too dear. In 
 Germany, " Wieviel " wùll generally reveal the price of an article or 
 needed service, and I should give the pronunciation as we-feel. 
 When traveling, it is often important to know how long the train 
 stops at a station. In French we get very near it by saying " Com_ 
 bien de minutes." Italian is " Quanti minuti," and Germans say 
 "Wie lang der halt." Much can be accomplished in the way of 
 pantomime, and many of us have become so au fait that we may 
 yet rival Fox himself. Our desperate attempts at talking are re- 
 ceived with good natured smiles, but it is very provoking, after 
 trying in vain to make ourselves understood, to have the native 
 say, " Vy don't you speak Eenglees ?" a scene which often happens. 
 In many hotels notices are posted in the rooms, in three or four 
 languages. The English used in some of them is peculiar; for in- 
 stance, at the hotel on the Rhigi, was the following announce- 
 ment : "Considering the great affluence of all nations to this 
 house, we beg to take good care of all objects of value, and to 
 lock well the door during the night." 
 
 Leaving Heidelburg at 9 A. M., after a ride of three hours, we 
 stopped at Frankfort-on-the-Main, where we saw statues of Gut- 
 tenburg, inventor of printing, Goethe and Schiller. We drove 
 through the old Jew quarters, where, until recently, all Jews were 
 obliged to reside, through Preacher street, by the house from 
 which Luther preached when on his way to the Diet of Worms, 
 thence to the Ptomer or Town Hall, built in 1406. Calling at 
 Bethmanus Museum, we saw Dannecker's statue of Ariadne, in 
 which a nude woman sits or inclines upon the back of a tiger. 
 We also saw an old bridge crossing the Main, which was erected 
 in 1342, and on which is the statue of Charlemagne. Resuming 
 our places in the cars, after an hour's ride we landed here in what 
 may well be called the Saratoga of Germany. It is a noted resort 
 for the wealthy classes, and its waters, which come boiling up 
 through the earth, bear the reputation of being very healthful. 
 The Emperor William has one hundred and fifty palaces, and one 
 of them is here, and it is a fine structure, resplendent with art, 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 95 
 
 statuary and decorations. In the evening we lounged into a con- 
 cert, given in a beautiful garden and evidently frequented by the 
 better classes of society. 
 
 Aug. 26 — Among other points visited, we spent an hour in the 
 museum, and about the same length of time in a fine Jewish syn- 
 agogue, which was beautifully decorated in the Byzantine style. 
 At the museum we saw a picture of Luther before the legate of 
 Pope Leo X at Augsburg. It is related that Catejan, the legate, 
 after a long and fruitless attempt to persuade Luther that he was 
 wrong, said, " I will have nothing more to do with the beast, he 
 has deep eyes and his head is full of speculations." 
 
 According to information, which I deem incorrect, Luther re- 
 plied, " I can do no otherwise. God help me." 
 
 That sentence was uttered at the Diet of Worms, and not at 
 Augsburg, unless my history has got mixed. To-morrow we go 
 down the Rhine, first taking carriage to Biebrich, about three 
 miles, where we take 'the steamer to Coblentz, where we spend the 
 night, then resuming our journey on the river, to Cologne. 
 
96 Style-O '-Graphic Pens and 
 
 COBLENTZ. 
 
 Coblentz, Aug. 28, 1879. 
 
 Leaving Biebrich by the steamboat at 10.30 A. M., an hour's 
 sail took us to " Bingen, dear Bingen on the Rhine." Of course 
 we saw and went into ecstacies over the different ruined and pic- 
 turesque castles, and were interested to see the " Mouse " and the 
 " Cat," and were charmed by hearing the story read of how the 
 rats ate up the wicked Bishop Hatton. If any reader desires a 
 detailed statement of the castles and other interesting points they 
 can easily read them up from the legion of books which have been 
 published about it. I give a few notes taken as we sailed. The 
 river is a very rapid one and its waters, at this time, are as tur- 
 bid as the Mississippi. Many tow-boats ply back and forth tug- 
 ging loaded and empty freight boats or barges. The I 
 some of the steamers are cigar-shaped, after the plan of our Bal- 
 timore Winans. Some are provided with an apparatus consisting 
 of wheels and gearing, which picks up a cable laid on the-bottom 
 of the river, and by it they pull themselves up the stream. How 
 far the cable extends I' could not learn, but saw it in use in sev- 
 eral places. 
 
 We passed swinging ferries, too, where a cable is anchored a 
 long distance up and in the middle of the stream, whence it is 
 carried to the side of the ferryboat,' the bight or slack being car- 
 ried on small pontoons to prevent its dragging on the bottom. 
 The boats lay alongside of a combination bridge and pontoon 
 which forms a stationary floating dock or wharf, and the teams 
 drive on and stand crosswise instead of lengthwise, as on our 
 boats at home. The stream acting on the sides of the boat, which 
 by means of the rudder is made to stand at an angle to the cur- 
 
Funny Penctllings in Europe. 97 
 
 rent, carries it across at a fair speed. We passed immense rafts 
 of timber which were being floated to a market. One of them I 
 estimated at four hundred feet in length by one hundred and sev- 
 enty-five in width, and it was guided by thirty-six men. The 
 Captain had a bridge of rough construction, and after the steam- 
 er style, he directed his crew from it. A large cabin occupied 
 the center, from which a black pipe projected, sending smoke 
 forth into the air. 
 
 Arriving at Coblentz about 2 P., M., we organized a pedestrian 
 excursion to the castle of Ehrenbrietstein, called the Gibraltar of 
 the Rhine. First crossing the long pontoon bridge, we turned to 
 the left and soon commence to walk up an easy grade. Any com- 
 mon walker can do it easily and without fatigue, and it is an un- 
 necessary expense to hire carriages. The view from the ramparts 
 was superb. The town was called by the Romans Confluentia, on 
 account of its situation at the meeting" of the rivers Moselle and 
 Rhine. The scene takes in both rivers, and the difference in the 
 color of the waters was very apparent, that of the Moselle being 
 dark brown, and the Rhine of a yellow gray. The boats, both 
 sail and steam, moving over the face of the rivers, appeared like 
 very small pleasure yachts. The castle, or fortress, is a wonder- 
 fully strong and seemingly impregnable structure. To an unmili- 
 tary man it appears to be a strange conglomeration, and seems to 
 be built after no special plan. The trip up and back, occupying 
 only two hours, it left time for a walk about the town, which was 
 improved by us, as follows : We first visited the church of St. 
 Castor, founded in 836, and the present structure dating from 
 1208. It contains many interesting monuments and frescoes. In 
 front of the church, in a large open square, stands a plain monu- 
 ment, erected by the last French prefect, to commemorate the 
 campaign against Russia. The inscription translated is, "Year 
 1812. Memorable for the campaign against the Russians. Under 
 Jules Devazan prefect." The Russian general who afterwards 
 occupied the town added a fine example of sarcasm : — 
 
 "Seen and approved by as, the Russian Commandant of city 
 ni' Coblentz, Jan. 1st, 181-1." Still wandering, we came aero-- a 
 
98 Style-0 [-Graphic Pens and 
 
 clock, rendered curious by the effigy of a man's face just under it, 
 in which the eyes rolled at each click of the escapement, and at 
 every hour the mouth opens also. The King has a large but un- 
 interesting palace here, which we passed. On the river front, near 
 the palace, was a marble statue called the Wacht am Rhine. There 
 are two substantial iron bridges spanning the river, in addition to 
 the pontoon bridge before mentioned. They are without draws, 
 being high enough to allow the river craft to pass under them. 
 Sitting at my window, I saw the operation of letting rafts, steam- 
 ers, etc., through the bridge of boats. The first motion is to lift 
 up two aprons, or flat doors, at each end of a long section of the 
 bridge. This section gradually drops down the river, being con- 
 trolled by cables running from the bows of two pontoons to an- 
 chors in the stream. As it is slacked away, it divides into two 
 sections, one going one side of the opening, and the other in the 
 opposite direction. One section is provided with steam winding 
 engines, which bring it rapidly back to its place, while the other 
 has gearing and apparatus propelled by hand, which serve the 
 same purpose. On the whole, Coblentz is an interesting place, 
 and the traveler can put in a pleasant day here very easily. 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 99 
 
 COLOGNE. 
 
 Cologne, Aug. 28. 
 Coming here by steamer from our last stopping place, we end 
 our sail on the Rhine. We confess the fact, that the river and its 
 scenery have not fulfilled our anticipations. Many scenes on the 
 Hudson and Connecticut rivers, far exceed in beauty and gran- 
 deur anything we have seen in the way of nature. Only the old 
 and ruined castles, with their credible and incredible histories, 
 made this part of the journey at all .interesting. Of course al- 
 lowances must be made that, having seen so much and traveled so 
 far, we were not in the mood calculated to drive one into ecsta- 
 cies ; but if we could only put up some castle on the heights along 
 our own river, and then treat them to a dose of nitro-glycerine, 
 we might possibly induce Europeans to come over and spend some 
 money with us, and so even up a little toward the large sums we 
 expend here. Cologne has 135,000 inhabitants, and is celebrated 
 for its cathedrals, its virgins (dead), its cologne and its filthy 
 odors. The last is caused by surface drainage. The one grand 
 point is the Cathedral. As I viewed its wonderful and superb 
 proportions and reads its history, which recounts the great amount 
 of treasure spent and being spent upon it, I thought of the num- 
 berless strokes of the chisel which have been made upon the stones, 
 and also of Col. Sellers' well-known exclamation, " There's millions 
 in it." We saw at this great Cathedral a marble jar which was 
 used to contain the wine made by the Saviour at the marriage sup- 
 per ; also some of the veritable wine, in a sealed glass bottle. 
 They have a handkerchief which lies in just the form it fell from 
 the Saviour's face ; also the skulls of the three Magi, whom Herod 
 sent out to find the Saviour. It just occurs to me that one church 
 
100 
 
 Style-0 [-Graphic Pens and 
 
 in Home exhibits a bottle containing milk from the breast of the 
 Virgin Mary. The Church of St. Ursula, containing the bones 
 of the eleven thousand virgins, next engaged our attention. The 
 bones are so protected, that many of our indefatigable relic hunters 
 were disappointed in not being able to carry off' a bone souvenir, 
 with which, when they got home, they might astonish the natives, 
 and cause them to show their ivory. One man in this town must 
 have had a great many children and called them all Johan Maria 
 Farina, for the name is painted on hundreds of signs in all quar- 
 ters of the city. He was the inventor of eau de cologne, and the 
 
 STREET SttNt \N COUQGVVt 0--^-<^ 
 
 proprietor of each store and shop which keeps the perfume, claims 
 to be his lineal descendant and to be the sole and only possessor 
 of th'' secret of its combination. To prove their statements, 
 they show long printed documents describing their lineage, and 
 any number of oaths subscribed, and sworn to before officials of the 
 t iwn, And more depositions follow by still other officials, that 
 the aforesaid functionaries are what they profess to be. It brings to 
 mind the great strife which existed at our Centennial between the 
 rival sewing machine and piano manufacturers. Having purchased 
 and tested some of the wonderful liquid from one of the " only 
 
Funny Pencillings -in Europe. 101 
 
 reliable manufacturers," I judge it is not as good nor as cheap as 
 that which we have at home ; certainly it does not retain its odor 
 so long. In front of our hotel (Victoria) is a very large square, 
 or more properly, a polygon. A large equestrian statue stands 
 upon it, erected by William III, in memory of his father. In 
 this square, during the early morning, the market women gather 
 with vegetables and fruits, which they offer for sale. More than 
 1,000 stalls were set up, and «very few minutes a difference of 
 opinion seemed to take place, when the tongues were let loose, re- 
 producing the old London Billingsgate. 
 
 An officer of the government inspected each person's stock, and 
 if anything was found not fit for sale, it was confiscated and the 
 seller locked up. .V small fee was also collected from each one .-is 
 a tax by the government. 
 
 The river often overflows its banks and the mark upon some 
 of the buildings surrounding the square, show it to have been 
 twelve feet deep there in 1784. 
 
 We saw many picturesque rigs in the shape of nondescript ve- 
 hicles, drawn, some by one dog. some by a pair of dogs, and one 
 by a woman and a cow harnessed together. 
 
102 Style-0 !-G-kafhic Pens and 
 
 AMSTERDAM. 
 
 Amsterdam, Aug. 30. 
 
 We left Cologne yesterday morning at 9.30 A. M., the ride oc- 
 cupying our time until 3 in the afternoon. The city is a very 
 pleasant one, and its many canals and bridges, cause our memory 
 to return to Venice, although in place of the light and graceful 
 gondola, we see the clumsy Dutch galliot, and snub-nosed punt. 
 Two hundred and eighty-seven thousand persons claim to have 
 tin 'ii' home here. Most of the houses arc of brick, painted a dark 
 brown, almost black, color. It is a pleasing sight to look upon 
 the busy housewife, who seems to have a penchant for continually 
 scrubbing the front step-. 
 
 As all the buildings require piles tor a foundation, we saw many 
 machines at work driving them. Their apparatus was of a primi- 
 tive type being in many cases the exact counterpart of that used 
 by the Emperor Trajan, when he built a bridgs across the Danube 
 2,000 years ago. I saw some drivers which used steam, but the 
 most of them raised the drop, or hammer, by means of a rope run- 
 ning up and over a pulley, then down a short distance it branced 
 out, so to speak, into twelve other ropes. Men were stationed at the 
 ends of these, and at a given word, similar to the sailors' song, of 
 heave ho, they pulled together, and let the weight drop suddenly. 
 Our guide said these laborers got about one dollar per day, hut 1 
 am disinclined to credit his statement, for at the rate they were 
 working it would ruin any man who undertook to put up a building. 
 
 The Royal Museum contains the finest picture gallery in Hol- 
 land. Among tin' most famous paintings are, Van der Heist's 
 Arquebusiers, and Rembrandt's Night Watch. 
 
Funny Pencilling in Europe. 103. 
 
 Two uninteresting churches occupied a short time, and then we 
 went to the King's Palace, which has a sombre exterior, but the 
 interior is costly, and the trappings and paintings are worthy of 
 examination. The foundations of the palace contain 18,600 piles. 
 Our stay of nearly two days gave us an opportunity to examin? 
 the best zoological collection on the continent. Let none of the 
 readers of this forget to go there, if it should ever be their fortune 
 to see this city. The buildings are all clean and free from the vile 
 odors which seem almost inseparable from such collections. The 
 grounds are nicely and tastefully laid out, and the collection 3Î 
 animals is the most extensive known, outside of London. I take 
 occasion to mention the great hippopotamus, which weighs 8,500 
 pounds, and opens his mouth to the width of five feet. Its mate 
 is not quite as large, but is reported to be heavier than any cap- 
 tured specimen, except the one before mentioned. We leave at 3 
 P. M., for Haarlem, where we stop an hour or two to listen to an 
 organ concert in the Groote Kerk. The instrument is the more 
 interesting from the fact that both Mozart and Handel have 
 pressed its keys. After the concert we continue on to the Hague. 
 
lud Style-0 I-Graphic Pens and 
 
 HAGUE. 
 
 Hague, Sept, 1. 
 
 Yesterday being Sunday, we went to the Dutch Reformed, and 
 then to the English Episcopal Church. At the latter, the officiat- 
 ing clergyman was so cold, prosy and heartless, that we consid- 
 ered we did penance then and there for all our misdeeds of the 
 past week. Mr. C. pertinently said he thought the sermon would 
 never begin, and after it began lie was afraid it would never end. 
 I will gently say that during the " fore part of the week " a party 
 went out to the Queen's Palace in the woods, and in the evening 
 they took a ride down to the seashore, and they report that they 
 were repaid for the outlay of time and money. To-day we have 
 been looking at some more pictures. Among the best known, are 
 Rembrandt's School of Anatomy, Paul Potter's Bull, in which 
 the figures are life-size, and Jan Steen's celebrated Oyster Feast. 
 Then a couple of churches were taken in. Here we came across 
 another instance of peculiar English, contained in the following 
 notice, which verbatim et literatim follows: — 
 
 "I engage those persons who do me the honor to reside at my 
 establishment, to place in my hands anything of value, which 
 they may have with them; it will be easily understood it is the 
 only way by which I can become responsible." 
 
 One comfort we have had in the midst of the Babel of tongues, 
 is that the locomotives exhaust, tin' dogs bark, the cats meow, 
 and the children cry in the good old English way. The names 
 on the signs are very interesting, and at the same time puzzling. 
 The only way they can invent such names is to put several alpha- 
 bets into a hat, stir them up, and draw at random. The follow- 
 ing is a specimen: — Noojjkrenijkubjjiaeiouy. 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 105 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 London, Sept. 3. 
 
 We left the Hauge at noon, September 1 , and taking dinner at 
 Rotterdam, embarked on the steamer Princess of Wales, and by 
 moonlight, sitting on deck in the midst of pleasant companions, 
 we watched the shores of the Continent fade out of sight. We 
 were subjected to a rigid examination of our baggage at Harwich. 
 Leaving the last place about 5 A. M., we were whirled away to 
 London. Fortunately we have had two days here of pleasant, 
 sunshiny weather, without a suspicion of fog, which inclines me 
 to take back what I said about it in my letter from Paris. 
 
 Being left to our own resources for amusement, fourteen of us 
 took the first day to go to Windsor Castle. We put in one of the 
 most enjoyable days we have had during our travels. ' The stables 
 first attracted our attention. The Queen has two hundred and 
 twenty horses in all, about one hundred being for her private and 
 personal use. We saw the favorite horse of the dead Prince Con- 
 sort, which is now thirty years old ; also the baby carriages in 
 which the Prince of Wales was drawn, and very plain they are 
 too. American mothers would not think they were good enough 
 for their offspring. Passing through Henry the Eighth's gateway, 
 we came to St! George's Chapel, which unfortunately tor us, was 
 closed for renovation. On the right are the residences of the 
 Military Knights of Windsor; a square tower in the center is the 
 Governor's dwelling, and a semicircular elevation at the terminus, is 
 Henry the Third's Tower, which is occupied by Victoria's Private 
 Secretary. On the left is the tomb house of Cardinal Woolsey, 
 which is now used lor the resting place of dead royalty, and is 
 called the Albert Memorial Chapel. Beyond and near the Win- 
 
106 
 
 Style-0 I-Geaphic Pens and 
 
 WINDSOE CASTLE. 
 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 
 
 !<»< 
 
 Chester Tower is the dwelling of the Dean of Windsor. Through 
 the Norman gateway we come to the Pound Tower, Avhere many- 
 scenes, both festal and tragical, have taken place. David, King 
 of Scotland, was confined here for twelve years. Here the Earls 
 of Surrey, Northumberland (afterward beheaded), Lauderdale, 
 Lindsay and the Marshal de Belleisle were at different times im- 
 prisoned. Here Philippa, Edward the Third's Queen, died and 
 Prince James, son of Robert. King of Scotland, was imprisoned 
 lor nineteen years. 
 
 The Queen's private apartments can only be seen by permission 
 of the Lord High Chamberlain in London, but we were shown the 
 Queen's Audience Chamber, in which the walls on three sides are 
 hung with superb specimens of Gobelin's tapestry, illustrating three 
 events in the life of Esther. Next came the Ball Room in which 
 are hung twenty-two paintings by Van Dyek. In succession came 
 the State Drawing Room, Ante Room, Grand Staircase, Waterloo 
 Chamber, Grand Ball Room and St. George's Hall. All the 
 grand feasts and dinners are given in the last mentioned hall, 
 which is of magnificent proportions, being two hundred feet long, 
 thirty-four feet wide and thirty-two feet high. 
 
108 Style-0 !-Gb,aphic Pens and 
 
 The ceiling is decorated with the arms of all the knights up to 
 the present period. Thirteen large windows allow the light to 
 enter, and between the panels, the names of the knights are paint- 
 ed on small shields, ami numbered to correspond with the armorial 
 bearings on the ceiling. 
 
 In the guard chamber are some interesting relics. A- portion 
 of the mast of the Victory, shot through by a' cannon ball, is sur- 
 mounted by a bust of Lord Nelson. There are also busts of the 
 Duke of Marlborough and the Duke of Wellington, with their re- 
 spective banners over them. Two brass cannon, captured in the 
 Punjaub, stand on either side of the bust of Nelson, and fastened 
 on the walls are ancient fire arms, spears and armour. From the 
 summit of the Round Tower the view which is presented to the 
 eye, is not easily forgotten. The counties pointed out to us were 
 Middlesex, Hertford, Essex, Oxford, Wilks, Kents, Hants, Bed- 
 ford, Sussex, Berks, Bucks and Surrey. A good idea of the ex- 
 tent of the castle and the beauty of its surroundings is also gained. 
 The famous Eton College is plainly visible, and by the aid of a 
 .field-glass, the view is greatly extended. 
 
 Our second day was spent by most of the ladies among the 
 shops, but a small party went to the famous London Zoological 
 Gardens. They are conceded to be the largest and best in the 
 world. Among the more interesting animals, were a Cape Ant 
 Bear, a monstrous Polar Bear, four Giraffes, a lordly Elephant, 
 two of the genus Hippopotamus, an interesting and lazy Sloth, 
 any number of Ostriches, Antelopes, Seals, etc. Here, as in Am- 
 sterdam, everything is kept with scrupulous cleanliness, which 
 adds to the pleasure one experiences, while in addition, the sur- 
 rounding grounds are beautifully laid out, and well taken care of. 
 On the way back we took a roundabout course, «luring which we 
 stopped a while at Hyde Park. 
 
 Arriving at the hotel about 2 P. M., I accepted a kind invita- 
 tion from an English friend to visit the Masonic Hall. I entered 
 the Grand Master's room, which is richly decorated, and viewed 
 with awe the gorgeously upholstered chair which the Prince of 
 Wales sometimes occupies. We also went into the various lodge 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 
 
 109 
 
 rooms and offices, and with my conductor's explanations of the 
 workings of Masonry, and its charitable institutions in England, 
 I succeeded m putting in two hours very pleasantly. 
 
 IN WANT. 
 
110 
 
 Style-0 [-Graphic Pens and 
 
 THE PORTIER. 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. Ill 
 
 GLASGOW. 
 
 Glasgow, Sept, 4, 1879. 
 
 Leaving London we were brought quickly through at the aver- 
 age rate of forty-five miles per hour. This afternoon we leave by 
 rail for Greenock, where we embark on the steamer for home. 
 
 Our journey is near its end. So far we have traveled six thou- 
 sand miles, not including the shopping excursions. Our ocean 
 journey will add three thousand more. 
 
 It may be asked whether it is advisable to go to Italy during 
 hot weather. Leaving out Naples, and taking prudent care of 
 one's self, I am inclined to say it can be done, if the physical con- 
 dition of the traveler is right to start with. Rome was the most 
 comfortable place we found ; Naples and Verona the worst. If 
 any of my renders are so unfortunate as to have to stop at the lat- 
 ter place, let me advise them not to drink the water, except it be in 
 the shape of tea or coffee, and then sparingly. By examining the 
 map. you will see that Rome is north, and Naples, even, is no far- 
 ther south than New York city. Nowhere, in or out of Italy, 
 did we have to endure extreme warm weather. We have covered 
 a great deal of ground in a comparatively limited time (eighty-five 
 days), and have been spared the many annoyances to which indi- 
 vidual travelers are subjected. Our conductors have attended to 
 all the details, relieving our minds of what would otherwise have 
 caused us much anxiety. To tell the truth the programme, or 
 prospectus, first issued, threw a glamour over some portions that 
 the reality failed to give, but we are generally satisfied that we ' 
 have had more than the worth of our money. Our railroad travel 
 has been first-class, but some of the hotels were not quite what we 
 
112 Style-0 .'-Graphic Pens ani» 
 
 expected. The art of keeping a hotel is one of the lost arts in 
 Europe, and there is too much of a tendency to swindle among 
 many of the landlords. The table d'hote is a tedious infliction 
 and a terrible waste of time, occupying in one instance two hours. 
 Many times have we looked at the curious conglomeration on the 
 dishes brought us, and been tempted to use the boyish, slangy 
 phrase, " What are you giving us." Some of the courses are ridic- 
 ulous. Take for example, boiled cucumbers, or a little bit of 
 cheese. Every change of course is governed by a bell, in the 
 hands of the head waiter, and dinner is not allowed to commence 
 until every one is seated. Our efforts to get anything outside of 
 the regular machine menu, were almost superhuman, and all such 
 things being reckoned as extras, added somewhat to our expenses. 
 Nowhere were we able to get a cup of tea at less than twenty 
 cents, and in some hotels they charged thirty. 
 
 Our outlay has varied ; the immediate expense was $500, but 
 you will readily see that other ways of spending money were al- 
 ways convenient. Some got along on $50 extra, while others 
 spent twenty times that sum. The temptation to spend money is 
 almost irresistible, so many are the objects of beauty and useful- 
 ness, and unless one keeps a cash account, which is a difficult and 
 irksome task, he is apt to wonder at the end, as one gentleman 
 said, "Where in thunder has it all gone to?" 
 
 There seems to be something demoralizing about the air in Eu- 
 rope, which allows men do many acts they would not think of 
 doing at home, and which renders them fit subjects for missionary 
 work when they get back to America. All of which reminds me 
 that a very appropriate hymn to be sung on the arrival of the 
 average traveler, commences : " Come ye sinners, poor and needy." 
 
 Regarding the drinking of water on the Continent, there is a 
 division of opinion. A great proportion of the party succeeded 
 in getting through without touching a drop of wine, or other 
 alcoholic stimulant. Many drank water without inconvenience, 
 where others have been made ill by doing the same. Several 
 have well earned the designation, water-proof, while others, just 
 as conscientious and good people, have been compelled to break 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 113 
 
 over life-long habits of abstemiousness ; therefore let each man be 
 a law unto himself. It speaks well for us that the hotel proprie- 
 tors growled because we took so little wine, and in some cases in- 
 sisted on having our conductor pay for it, whether drank or not. 
 
 One advantage in traveling with a company like ours, was the 
 opportunity it gave for incident, and the making of pleasant ac- 
 quaintances. It does not seem possible that another party can be 
 collected that can have fewer objectionable members. The pecu- 
 liar circumstances in which we were often placed, were calculated 
 to develop selfishness if it had existed, but each one seemed to 
 be actuated and governed by the sentiment, pro bono publico. 
 Laughable incidents were continually occurring , for instance, ai 
 Naples, ;i gentleman escorted a lady to an ice cream saloon, and 
 after the delicious compound had been made way with, he discov- 
 ered that his pocketbook was missing, and that he must borrow 
 money of the lady, to settle the bill. In the same city, a young 
 and lively housekeeper discovered a certain kind of bug, which 
 sometimes prove troublesome, and innocently remarked, " Why, 
 that is the first b — d b — g I have seen since I left home!" She 
 was extremely chagrined, although it was a very natural excla- 
 mation. 
 
 We leave Europe reluctantly ; we have had a glorious experi- 
 ence, but all pleasure must end sooner or later. 
 
 Home. 
 
 As political speakers often say, when they are going to talk an 
 hour longer, "just one word more," as a sort of postscript. On 
 Tuesday, the sixth day out from Greenock, we had a lively expe- 
 rience, and the pleasure (to those who were not sick) of witness- 
 ing a storm at sea. During the night of Monday, the hours were 
 enlivened by the smashing of crockery, the rattling of tin pans, 
 trunks chasseing on the cabin floor, and the hearty prayers of some 
 timid ladies. In the morning I met on deck the gentleman who 
 so often entertained us with his punning. He was convulsively 
 grasping the rail, and I saw him suddenly pocket his teeth, evi- 
 dently seeking to make as easy an exodus as possible, for that 
 which must come forth. Stepping up to him, we asked for anoth- 
 
114 
 
 Style-0 '.-Graphic Pens and 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 
 
 115 
 
116 Style-0 !-Graphic Pens and 
 
 er pun, and met the reply, " Go away, go away ; I am having 
 pimishment enough; every time this ship rolls my liver rolls 
 with it." 
 
 Another timid gentleman became possessed with the idea that 
 the vessel would roll over, and ever and anon (when he was not 
 engaged in more urgent business), he would exclaim ; " There she 
 goes! oh my soul'she is going over." In one stateroom four gen- 
 tlemen were having a circus. The tumbling they did, would have 
 brought down the house, had it been on a stage. Some heavy 
 waves came crashing down upon the hurricane deck, casting their 
 spray far above the top of the steamer's funnel. Several ladies 
 were injured by being thrown about, two receiving severe cuts 
 upon the head. One was launched backwards across the dining 
 saloon, and fell, striking her head against a chair. The shock and 
 terror produced insensibility, but fortunately no permanent injury. 
 Post Nubila Phoebus made the rest of the journey very enjoy- 
 able. We sighted land on Saturday, about 9 A. M., having taken 
 <>n a pilot the day before, from boat Xo. Id. A pool Avas made 
 as to what the number would be, and it was taken by an Illinoisan. 
 Some wages were put up whether the right or left foot of the 
 pilot would touch the deck first, but I am not able to record the 
 result, although it seemed to be a very important matter. At 4 
 o'clock, Sunday afternoon, we came to anchor at Sandy Hook, and 
 undergoing inspection by the quarantine officers, and fumigation 
 of the ship by their assistants, we proceeded up the harbor. At 
 • i o'clock we were through the custom house. A few words about 
 that department may not come amiss. Some members, who had 
 honestly " declared " everything to the United States officials, who 
 met us at Sandy Hook, were rigidly searched, and made to pay 
 sums varying from two to twenty-five dollars. I doubt not Un- 
 cle Sam was none the richer for it, either. Those who had kept 
 silent, refusing to make out a list, on the plea of not knowing 
 what was dutiable, got off nicely. Many an official, under a 
 frowning countenance, hid an " honest heart, etc?" No! An 
 earnest desire to make something for himself, and as he talked, 
 he held his ham I behind his back, the fingers playing a panto- 
 
Funny Pengillings in Europe. 117 
 
 mime. Many dollars went into many fingers. One officer said 
 to a Western gentleman: "If I mark yeur baggage all right, will 
 you consider me?" The answer being in the affirmative, the cab- 
 alistic chalk marks were put on, the baggage loaded, and the gen- 
 tleman about to &o, when the servitor of Uncle Sam said: " You 
 said you would consider me, sir," " So I do," said he, " 1 consider 
 you an internal scoundrel! " 
 
 The parting in New York had been dreaded, but the excite- 
 ment attendant upon the examination of baggage, prevented any 
 very tearful exhibition. So endeth the second (and last) lesson. 
 
118 
 
 Style-Ô !-Graphic Pens and 
 
 The author on his' arrival home, held a reception, was asked tô 
 make a speech and tell all he knew, one of the audience remark- 
 ing: "It won't take long." .Without previous preparation, but 
 depending wholly on the inspiration of the moment, he essayed 
 an extempore essay, with the above result. 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 
 
 119 
 
 BAD FRENCH FOP, THE UNINITIATED. 
 
 English is spoken very widely if not generally, in France, and 
 the French-speaking provences adjoining it; but even a moderate 
 acquaintance with prominent words will be found useful, in the 
 event of the tourist being accidently placed where he finds neith- 
 er English, nor interpreter. For the benefit of such — the few 
 following pages are intended ; and with intelligent use of them, 
 much may be accomplished. Three divisions are maintained 
 throughout, however placed : English, French, and the French 
 nearly as it is made to sound in speaking. 
 
 The accents being useless, except to a French scholar, (and for 
 them this Phrase Book is not intended), they have beenj.eft out. 
 
 NUMERALS AND ORDINALS. 
 
 ENGLISI 
 
 I. FRENCH. 
 
 PRONUNCIATION, 
 
 One, 
 
 Un, 
 
 
 oon. 
 
 Two, 
 
 Deu.>\ 
 
 
 deu. 
 
 Three, 
 
 Trois, 
 
 
 trwa. 
 
 Four, 
 
 Quatre, 
 
 
 Kawtr. 
 
 Five, 
 
 < 'in que or 
 
 cinq, 
 
 sankg. 
 
 Six, 
 
 Six, 
 
 
 ziss. 
 
 Seven, 
 
 Sept, 
 
 
 set. 
 
 Eight, 
 
 Huit, 
 
 
 wheet. 
 
 Nine, 
 
 Neuf, 
 
 
 noof. 
 
 Ten, 
 
 Dix, 
 
 
 diss. 
 
 Eleven. 
 
 Onze, 
 
 
 onz. 
 
120 
 
 SïYLE-0 1-G-RAPHic Pens and 
 
 ENGLISH. 
 
 FRENCH. 
 
 PRONUNCIATION, 
 
 Twelve, 
 
 Douze, 
 
 dooz. 
 
 Thirteen, 
 
 Treize, 
 
 trayz. 
 
 Fourteen, 
 
 Quatorze, 
 
 kahtors. 
 
 Fitter 11 
 
 Quinze, 
 
 kanz. 
 
 Sixteen, 
 
 Seize, 
 
 sayz. 
 
 Seventeen, 
 
 Dix-sept, 
 
 diss-set. 
 
 Eighteen, 
 
 Dix-huit, 
 
 di^s-wheet. 
 
 Nineteen, 
 
 Dix-neuf, 
 
 diss-noof. 
 
 Twenty. 
 
 Vingt, 
 
 vant. 
 
 Thirty, 
 
 Trente, 
 
 t l'ont. 
 
 Forty, 
 
 Quarante, 
 
 k; trou t. 
 
 Fifty, 
 
 ( ïnquante, 
 
 sankant. 
 
 Sixty, 
 
 Soixante, 
 
 swassant. 
 
 Seventy, 
 
 Soixante-dix, 
 
 swassant-diss. 
 
 Eighty, 
 
 Quatre vingt, 
 
 kawt-vant. 
 
 Ninety, 
 
 Quatre-vingt-dix 
 
 kawt-vant-diss. 
 
 ( >ne Hundred, 
 
 Cent, 
 
 sawnt. 
 
 One Thousand, 
 
 Un Mille, 
 
 < ion meel. 
 
 (hie Million, 
 
 T'a M 'il ' 'nui, 
 
 <» mi ineelvonu;. 
 
 First, 
 
 Premier (<?, fem.), 
 
 prem-yare. 
 
 Set '< Did, 
 
 Second [e, fem.), 
 
 se-kond. 
 
 do 
 
 Deuxième, 
 
 ilvoozhee-em. 
 
 Third, 
 
 Troisième, 
 
 trwazee-em. 
 
 Fourth, 
 
 Quatrième, 
 
 kawtree-em. 
 
 Fifth, 
 
 1 ïnquieme, 
 
 sawnkee-em. 
 
 Sixth, 
 
 Sixième, 
 
 zissee-em. 
 
 Si \ i nth, 
 
 Septième, 
 
 set tee-em. 
 
 Eight, 
 
 Huitième, 
 
 wheetee-em. 
 
 Ninth, 
 
 Neuvième, 
 
 noovee-em. 
 
 Tenth, 
 
 Dixième, 
 
 dizzee-em. 
 
 Eleventh, 
 
 ( onzième, 
 
 onzee-em. 
 
 Twelfth, 
 
 Douzième, 
 
 dooze-em. 
 
 Thirteenth, 
 
 Treizième, 
 
 treze-em. 
 
 Fourteenth, 
 
 Quatorzième, 
 
 katorzee-em. 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 
 
 L21 
 
 ENGLISH. 
 
 Fifteenth, 
 
 Sixteenth 
 
 Seventeenth, 
 
 Eighteenth, 
 
 Nineteenth, 
 
 Twentieth, 
 
 Thirtieth, 
 
 Fortieth, 
 
 FRENCH. 
 
 Quimzieme, 
 
 Seizeieme, 
 
 Dix-septieme, 
 
 Dix -huitième, 
 Dix- neuvième, 
 Vingtième, 
 Trentième, 
 Quarantième, 
 etc., etc.; 
 
 PRONUNCIATION. 
 
 kanzee-em. 
 
 seezee-em. 
 dissitee-em. 
 
 disswheete-em. 
 
 dissnovee-em. 
 
 vantee-em. 
 
 trontee-em. 
 
 karontee-em. 
 
 etc. 
 
 A FEW NAMES OF VERY COMMON OBJECTS AND 
 
 PERSONS. 
 
 ENGLISH. 
 The bread, 
 The salt, 
 Some butter, 
 A knife, 
 A fork, 
 The dish, 
 A napkin, 
 The eggs, 
 Beef, 
 
 Roast beef, 
 Some potatoes, 
 Oysters, 
 Mutton, 
 Veal, 
 
 Some pork, 
 Some cherries, 
 The table, 
 Pepper, 
 Mustard, 
 That church. 
 
 ( With different prefixes.) 
 
 FRENCH. 
 
 Le pain, 
 
 Le sel, 
 
 Du beurre, 
 
 Un couteau, 
 
 Une fourchette, 
 
 L'assiette, 
 
 Une serviette, 
 
 Des œufs, 
 
 Le bœuf, 
 
 Rosbif, 
 
 Des pommes de terre, 
 
 Les huîtres, 
 
 Le mouton. 
 
 Le veau, 
 
 Du porc, 
 
 Quelque cerises, 
 
 La table, 
 
 Le poivre, 
 
 La moutarde, 
 
 Cette église, 
 
 PRONUNCIATION. 
 
 leh pan. 
 
 leh sel. 
 
 deuh berr. 
 
 oon cohto. 
 
 oon forchet. 
 
 L 'ashy et. 
 
 oon survyet. 
 
 doz ufe. 
 
 leh beff. 
 
 r-r-oasbif. 
 
 day pom deh tair. 
 
 lez weeter. 
 
 leh mootong. 
 
 leh vo. 
 
 deuh pork. 
 
 kelke sareese. 
 
 lah tahble. 
 
 leh pwavr. 
 
 lah mootard. 
 
 set eeeclees. 
 
122 
 
 Style-0 [-Graphic Pens and 
 
 ENGLISH. 
 
 This street, 
 The street corner, 
 A bottle, 
 
 The goblet (glass), 
 A cup, 
 Some coffee, 
 A cup of .tea, 
 A big fish, 
 The little dog, 
 My soup, 
 Your brandy, 
 Our cucumbers, 
 A spoon, 
 The carriage, 
 The railway, 
 The shoes, 
 A pair of boots, 
 A coat, 
 The trowers, 
 A new vest, 
 The waiter, 
 The prison, 
 The doctor, 
 
 do 
 The hotel, 
 A stairway, 
 A bed 
 
 The bed-chamber, 
 A furnished room. 
 A beef-steak, 
 
 FRENCH. 
 
 Cette rue ci, 
 
 Le coin de la rue, 
 
 Une bouteille, 
 
 Le verre, 
 
 Une tasse, 
 
 Du cafe, 
 
 Une tasse de the, 
 
 Un gros poisson, 
 
 Le petit chien, 
 
 Mon pot d'il' . 
 
 Votre eau de vie, 
 
 Nos concombres, 
 
 Une cuiller, 
 
 La voiture. 
 
 Le chemin defer, 
 
 Les souliers, 
 
 Une pair de bottes, 
 
 Un habit, 
 
 Les culottes, 
 
 Un gilet nouveau, 
 
 Le gar cou, 
 
 La prison, 
 
 Le docteur, 
 
 Le médecin, 
 
 LJiotel, 
 
 Un escalier, 
 
 Un lil , 
 
 PRONUNCIATION. 
 
 set reuw see. 
 
 leh quan deh lah roo. 
 
 oon bootyee. 
 
 leh verr. 
 
 oon tas. 
 
 deuh cafFay. 
 
 oon tas deh tay. 
 
 oon gro pwasson. 
 
 leh paytee sheeon. 
 
 mon po-tahj. 
 
 vootr o devee. 
 
 no concombr. 
 
 oon koolyare. 
 
 lah vwateur. 
 
 leh shaman deh fair. 
 
 lay solyair. 
 
 oon piar day boat. 
 
 oon abbee. 
 
 lay cooloat. 
 
 oon jelay novo. 
 
 leh garsoon. 
 
 lah pre-zon. 
 leh docterr. 
 leh maydeesan. 
 lotel. 
 
 oon eskalyay. 
 oon lee. 
 L<i chambre a coucher, leh shambr ah cooshay 
 Une chambre garnie, oon shambr garnee. 
 Un biftek, oon biftek. 
 
 A beef-steak well done, Un biftek bien cuit, oon biftek beyon quee. 
 
 do rarodone, do saignant, do sagnyong. 
 
 Fried Potatoes, Pommes de terre frites ,pom de tayr frète. 
 
 A lookimi'-o-lass, Un miroir, oon meerwa. 
 
 An umbrella, Oon parapluie, oon paraplu. 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 
 
 123 
 
 ENGLISH. 
 
 Thomas's hat, 
 
 The other horse, 
 
 Wine 
 
 Some water, 
 
 The comb, 
 
 The window, 
 
 The door, 
 
 A great house, 
 
 The porter, 
 
 Breakfast, 
 
 Dinner, 
 
 Supper, 
 
 A handkerchief, 
 
 The watch, 
 
 A little clock, 
 
 A room, 
 
 Our gloves, 
 
 The shirt, s 
 
 A trunk, 
 
 My Basket, 
 
 The theatre, 
 
 A theatre-box, 
 
 Reserved seats, 
 
 FRENCH. PRONUNCIATION. 
 
 Le chapeau de TVicmiasleh shappo dehTomas. 
 
 L'autre cheval, 
 Le vin, 
 De Veau, 
 Le peigne, 
 La fenêtre, 
 La porte, 
 
 lotr shayvol. 
 leh van. 
 detlo. 
 
 leh pine. 
 
 lah faynayter. 
 
 lah poart. 
 
 Une grande maison, oon grond miyeson. 
 
 Le portier, 
 Le dejeuner, 
 Le diner, 
 Le souper, 
 Un mouchoir, 
 La montre, 
 Une petite cloche 
 Un appartment, 
 Nos gants, 
 Les chemises, 
 Une malle, 
 Mon pannier, 
 Le theatre, 
 Une loge de theatre, 
 
 leh portya. 
 
 leh dejunay. 
 
 leh decnay. 
 
 leh soopay. 
 
 oon mooshwar. 
 
 lah montr. 
 
 oon patee cloash. 
 
 oon appartmawng. 
 
 no gawnt. 
 
 la shem-eese. 
 
 oon mal. 
 
 mawng panya. 
 
 lah teeatr. 
 
 oon loaj deh teeatr. 
 
 plass numayroatay. 
 
 Places numérotées, 
 A seat in the theatre, Un place au theatre, oon plass oh teeatr. 
 A ticket of admission, Un billet d'entrée, oon beyea dawntray. 
 
 The porter, 
 
 A chamber maid, 
 
 Meats, 
 
 The baggage, 
 
 An attendant, 
 
 A body servant, 
 
 Le concierge, leh consairghe. 
 
 Une femme de chambrev on fam deh chambre. 
 
 Viandes, veeond. 
 
 Le bagage, leh bahgahzj. 
 
 Un valet de place, oon vallée deh plass. 
 
 Un valet de chambre, oon vallée deh shombr 
 
124 Style-0 I-Geaphic Pens and 
 
 QUESTIONS, ANSWERS AND INQUIRIES, OFTENEST 
 
 USEFUL. 
 
 RAILWAY TRAVELLINGS. 
 
 [To buy a ticket, etc., at the office.] 
 Traveler. — Monsieur, je desire un billet pour Paris. (Pro- 
 nounced : Jube dayseer oon beyea poor Parreese. English : 
 
 Sir, I wish a ticket to Paris.) 
 Ticket-Seller — Certainement, Monsieur ; quelle classe voulez 
 
 vous ? (Pro. Sertanmong, Mossiew ; kel clahs voolay voo ? 
 
 Eng. Certainly, sir ; what class will you have ?) 
 Trav. — Qu 'el est le prix des places ? (Pro. Kel ay leh pree de 
 
 plass ? Eng. What is the price of places ?) 
 Ticket-S. — Les premieres coûtent cinquante francs, et les secondes 
 
 trente francs. (Pro. La prameyer cootont sankont fronk, ay 
 
 la segond tront fronk. Eng. The first cost fifty francs, the 
 
 second thirty.-) 
 Trav. — Donnez moi les secondes, s il vous plait. (Pro. Donneh 
 
 mwa lay segond, seel voo play. Eng. Give me the second, 
 
 if y ou please.) 
 Ticket-S. — Combien de places, Monsieur ? (Pro. Combeyon deh 
 
 plass, Mossiew? Eng. How many places, sir?) 
 Trav. — Une pour moi seulement. (Pro. Oon poor mwa, sool- 
 
 mawng. Eng. One for myself only.) 
 Ticket-S. — Voici, Monsieur. (Pro. Wahsee, Mossiew. Eng. Here 
 
 it is, sir.) 
 
 [Making Inquiries.] 
 Question. — A qu'elle heure part le train pour Paris ? (Pro. Ah 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 125 
 
 kel oor par leh tran poor Parree ? Eng. At what hour does 
 
 the train start for Paris ?) 
 Answer. — Le train part a dix heures. (Pro. Leh tran par tah 
 
 dee soor. Eng. The train leaves at ten o'clock.) 
 Q,u. — Ou nous arrêterons nous pour diner? (Pro. Oo noo sarray- 
 
 teron noo poor denay? Eng. Where do we stop for dinner? 
 Axs. — A Rouen, Monsieur. (Pro. Ah Euan, Mossiew. Eng. At 
 
 Rouen, sir.) 
 Qu. — Combien de temps sarrete-t-on ici? (Pro. Combeyon deh 
 
 torn sah rayteton esee ? Eng. How long time do stop here ?) 
 Aus. — Vingt minutes d 'arret. (Pro. Vant meenwheet darray. 
 
 Eng. Twenty minutes of stoppage.) 
 Qu. — A quelle heure partirons nous ? (Pro. Ah kel oor parteron 
 
 noo ? Eng. At what hour do we start ?) 
 Ans. — Dans quinze minutes, Monsieur. (Pro. Dawn kanz meen- 
 wheet, Mossiew. Eng. In fifteen minutes, sir.) 
 Qtj. — Est ce le train pour Dijon? (Pro. Ay see leh tran poor 
 
 Deejzhon? Eng. Is this the train for Dijon ?) 
 Ans. — Non, Monsieur ; ce train est dix minutes en retard. (Pro. 
 
 Non, Mossiew ; seh tran a dee meenwheet on raytard. Eng. 
 
 No, sir ; that train is ten minutes behind.) 
 Ans. — Oui, Monsieur ; ce train en droit. (Pro. Wee, Mossiew; 
 
 set tran on drwat. Eng. Yes, sir ; that train on the right,) 
 Qu. — Changeons nous a la prochains station ? (Pro. Shonjayon 
 
 noo an lah proshain stahshon ? Eng. Do we change at the 
 
 next station ?) 
 Ans. — Non, Monsieur ; le premier change est a Bellegarde. (Pro. 
 
 Nong, Mossiew ; leh premya shonje es tah Belgard. Eng. 
 
 No, sir ; the first change is at Bellegarde.) ' 
 
 [ Warnings and Demands .] 
 Guard or Porter. — Monsieur a-t-il davantage de bagage ? (Pro. 
 
 Mossiew ah teel dah vantahzj deh bahgahzj ? Eng. Has the 
 
 gentleman any more baggage ?) 
 Trav. — Non, Monsieur — tout le bagage est dans la voiture. (Pro. 
 
 Nong, Mossiew-too leh bahgahzj ay dawn lah vwahteur. Eng. 
 
120 Style-0 [-Graphic Pens and 
 
 No, sir — all the luggage [American, "baggage"] is in the 
 carriage.) 
 
 Guard. — Vos billets, Mesdames et Messieurs. (For. Vo beyea, 
 Maydam ay Messiew. Eng. Your tickets, ladies and gentle- 
 men.) 
 
 Guard. — En voiture, Messieurs ! — en voiture! (Pro. On vwah- 
 teur, Messiew ! — on vwahteur ! Eng. Take your carriages., 
 gentlemen !) 
 
 Guard. — En voiture, de suite, Messieurs, s'il vous plait I (Pro. 
 On vwahteur, deh sweet, Messiew, seel voo play ! Eng. Take 
 your carriages, gentlemen, in a hurry, if you please !) 
 
 Guard. — Change de voitures, Messieurs! (Pro. Shonjay deh 
 vwahteur, Messiew ! Eng. Change carriages, gentlemen !) 
 
 TAKING carriages and riding. 
 
 Trav. — (To Cabman, on stand,) Cocher, ete vous libre? (Pro. 
 Coshay, ettay voo leebr ? Eng. Cabman, are you free ?) [dis- 
 engaged.] 
 
 Cabman. — Non, Monsieur, J attends quelqu'un. (Pro. Nong, Mos- 
 siew zjahttond kelkoon. Eng. No, sir ; I am waiting for 
 
 some one.) 
 Cabman. — Oui, Monsieur — je suis libre. (Pro. Wee Mossiew, jeh 
 
 swee leebr. Eng. Yes, sir ; I am disengaged.) 
 Trav. — Donnez mois votre carte. (Pro. Donneh mwa voatr cart. 
 
 Eng. Give me your card — i. e., the card of prices which all 
 
 French cabmen carry with them.) 
 Trav. — Je vous prends a la course. (Pro. Je voo prand ah lah 
 
 coorse. Eng. I engage you for the route to which I wish to 
 
 go.) Or, 
 Trav. — Je vous prends a l'heure. (Pro. Je voo prend ah loor. 
 
 Eng. I take you by the hour.) 
 Cabman. — Oufaut-il vous conduire Monsieur ? (Pro. Oo fo teel 
 
 voo condweer Mossiew? Eng. Where does the gentleman 
 
 wish to be taken ?) 
 Trav. — Au Grand Hotel ; or, au Boulevard Poissonnière, numéro 
 
 cinquante-huit. (Pro. Oh Gron Dotel; or, oh Boolevard 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 127 
 
 sonyer, numéro sankont-wheet. Eng. To the Grand Hotel ; 
 or, to the Boulevard Poissoniere, number fifty-eight.) 
 
 Trav.— Allez/ (Pro. Allay! Eng. Goon!) 
 
 Trav. — Marchez ! marchez ! (Pro. Marshay ! marshay ! Eng. 
 Faster ! faster !) 
 
 Trav. — Pas si vite ! or, Allez plus doucement ! (Pro. Pah se veet ; 
 or, allay ploo doosmong. Eng. Go more slowly. 
 
 Trav. — (When getting out of the cab, to have it wait) — Attendez 
 moi ici : je vais revenir : or, je reviens dans quelque minutes. 
 (Pro. Je vay rayqaneer ; or, je rayveeon dawn kelk meen- 
 wheet. Eng. Wait for me here, I will return ; or, I will re- 
 turn in a few minutes.) 
 
 Cabman. — Mon argent, Monsieur ! (Pro. Mong arjong, Mossiew ! 
 Eng. My money, sir ! 
 
 Trav. — Voici. (Pro. Vwassee. Eng. Here it is.) 
 
 Cabman. — Plus encore le pour boire, Monsieur ! (Pro. Ploo san- 
 coar leh poor bwar, Mossiew ! ■ Eng. More yet, sir ; the drink- 
 money !) 
 
 Trav. — Combien de pour boire ? (Pro. Combeyon deh poor bwar ? 
 Eng. How much drink money ?) 
 
 Trav. — Ce n est pas possible de payer rien de plus. (Pro. Ce nay 
 pah posseebl deh paya reeon deh ploo. Eng. It is not possi- 
 ble [for me] to pay any thing more.) 
 
 Trav. — Arrêtez ! or, arrêtez vous, cocher ! (Pro. Arraytay ; or, 
 arraytay vous, coshay. Eng. Stop ! or, stop, coachman.) 
 
 EATING AND DRINKING. 
 
 Orders to Waiters. — Garçon, faites moi servir. (Pro. Gahsoon, 
 fayt mwa sareveer. Eng. Waiter attend on me.) Je desire 
 diner. (Pro. Je deseer deenay. Eng. I wish dinner.) Don- 
 nez moi du potage a la Julienne. (Pro. Donnay mwa deuh 
 potahj ah lah Jzhulion. Eng. Grive me some soup a la Julien- 
 ne.) Du rosbif bieen cuit. (Pro. Deuh roosbif beeyon quee. 
 Eng. Some roast-beef well done.) Du rosbif saignani. (Pro. 
 Deuh roasbif sainyong. Eng. Some roast-beef rare.) Du 
 pore roti. (Pro. Deuh pork roatee. Eng. Some roast pork.) 
 
128 Style-0 [-Graphic Pens and 
 
 Du pain. (Pro. Deuh pan. Eng. Some bread.) Encore un 
 peu plus de beurre. (Pro. Oncoar oon pew ploo deh burr. 
 Eng. A ltttle more butter.) Une tasse de cafe. (Pro. Oon 
 tass deli caffay. Eng. A cup of coffee.) Un verre d'eau, 
 (Pro. Oon vayr doe. Eng A glass of water.) Un verre d'eau 
 glacée. (Pro. Oon vayr doe gl assay. Eng. A glass of ice- 
 water.) Pes pomme de terre. (Pro. Day pom deh tayr. 
 Eng. Some potatoes.) Une bouteille de vin rouge, (Pro. Oon 
 bootye deli van ruzjli. Eng. A bottle of red wine.) Une demi- 
 boideille de vin blanc. (Pro. Oon daymee bootye de van blong. 
 Eng. A half-bottle of white wine.) Apportez moi un assiette 
 propre. (Pro. Apporteh mwa oon awsyet proapr. Eng. 
 Bring me a clean plate.) Un fricassee de poulet. (Pro. Oon 
 frecassay deh poolay. Eng. A chicken fricasee.) Deux cote- 
 lets de veau, (Pro. Deuh cotaylay de vo. Eng. Two veal cut- 
 lets.) Du mouton bouilli, (Pro. Deuh mootong boolee. Eng. 
 Some boiled mutton.) Deux œufs frits. (Pro. Deuz ufe freet. 
 Eng. Two fried eggs.) Du poissons bodilli. (Pro. Deuh 
 pwassong boolee. Eng. Boiled fish.) Du pain au sucre. 
 (Pro. Deuh pan o sukr. Eng. Some cake.) Du pâtes de 
 fruits. (Pro. Deuh Pahtay de fruee. Eng. Some fruit pies.) 
 Du sucre. (Pro. Deuh soocr. Eng. Some sugar.) Le sel. 
 (Eng. The sait.) Un autre cuiller. (Pro. Oon otre queelay. 
 Eng. Another spoon.) Une assiette, un couteau, une four- 
 chette et une serviette. (Pro. Oon awsseyet, oon coeto, oon 
 forshet et oon sairveeyet. Eng. A plate, a knife, a fork and 
 a napkin.) L'addition, s'il vous plait. (Pro. Laddishong, 
 seel voo play. Eng. The bill, if you please.) 
 
 GREETINGS. 
 
 Bon jour, Monsieur. (Pro. Bong joor, Mossiew. Eng. Good- 
 morning, sir.) Bon soir, (Pro. Bong swar. Eng. Good-eve- 
 ning, when meeting; and good night, when separating.) 
 Adieu ! (Pro. Ahdeyou. Eng. Good-bye. Au revoir, (Pro. 
 rayvwar. Eng. Farewell, but to return — literally, good- 
 bye for a little while.) J'aiVhonneur de vous -saluer. (Pro. 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 129 
 
 Sjay lonner deh voo salooer. Eng. I have the honor to salute 
 you.) Permittez moi de prendre conge de vous. (Pro. Per- 
 meetay mwa deh prondr conjay deh voo. Eng. Permit me 
 to take leave of you.) Merci, Madam ! (Pro. Mayrsee, Mah- 
 dam ! Eng. Thank you, Madame!) Mille remerciements, 
 Mademoiselle. (Pro. Meel raymayr shemons, Madmwasel. 
 Eng. A thousand thanks, Miss.) Je vous remercie, Monsieur m 
 (Pro. Je voo raymayrci, Mossiew. Eng. I thank you, sir.) 
 
 INQUIRIES, ETC. 
 
 Pardon, Monsieur ! (Pro. Pardong, Mossiew ! Eng. Beg par- 
 don, sir ! [always to be used in accosting a stranger or mak- 
 ing apology for any contretemps.]) Je vouz prie de m' 'indi- 
 quer cette addresse, etc. (Pro. Sje voo pree deh mandeekay 
 cet address, etc. Eng. I beg you to indicate to me that ad- 
 dress, etc.) Pans quelle direction est l'Eglise de St. Poch ? 
 (Pro. Dawn kel derecshon ay lay glee de San Roash ? Eng. 
 In what direction is the church of St. Roch?) Ou est située 
 cette rue/ (Pro. Oo ay seetuay set roo? Eng. Where is 
 that street situated ?) Quelle est cette maison ? (Pro. Kel 
 ay set myeson ? Eng. What house is that ?) Enface est-ce 
 une maison de modes ? (Pro. On fass ay se oon myeson deh 
 moad ? Eng. Is that the fashion-shop, opposite ?) De quel 
 cote la Bourse, a droite ou a gauche? (Pro. Deli kel cotay 
 lah Boors, ah drwat on ah goash ? Eng. Which way is the 
 Bourse, to the right or the left ?) J'ai besoin d'habbits. (Pro. 
 Sjay 1 >a-swan dabbee. Eng. I desire some clothes [in buying].) 
 Quel en est le prix, etc. (Pro. Kel on ay leh pree, etc. Eng. 
 What is the price, etc.) C'est trop cher. (Pro. See ay tro 
 share. Eng. That is to dear or high-priced.) 
 
 FINDING INTERPRETER OR OUIDE. 
 
 Je desire un interpreto. (Pro. Sje da seer oon antayrpret. Eng. I 
 wish an interpreter.) Je voudrais un gaorcn pour me montre 
 les places principales. (Pro. Sje voodray oon garsoon poor 
 montr me lay plass pranseepal. Eng. I require a servant 
 
130 Style-0 !-Graphic Tens and 
 
 to point me out the principal places [of interest.]) Je desire 
 un valet de place qui parle V Anglais. {Pro. Je claseer oon 
 vallée deh plass ke barl long-glay. Eng. I wish a valet who 
 speaks English.) Y'a-t-il quelqu'un ici que parle Anglais .' 
 [Pro. Eeateel kelkoon esee kee pari Ongglay? Eng. Is there 
 any one here who speaks English?) Qui voulez vous qui m 
 accompagner adjourdhut? (Pro. Kee voolay voo kee mac- 
 compang adjerdwhee ? Eng. What do yon ask, to accom- 
 pany me during this day ?) Qui demandez vous, etc. (Pro. 
 Kee demondah voo, etc. Eng. What do you demand, etc.) 
 
 ENTERING, FINDING PERSONS, ETC. 
 
 Q. (Knocking, or at a door.) Puis-je entrer ? or, me permittez 
 vous cl entrer ? (Pro. Pweege ontra ? or, me permeetta voo 
 dontra ? Eng. May I come in ? or, Will you permit me to 
 enter ?) A. Entrez ! or, Certainement ! (Pro. Ontray ! or, 
 Certanmong. Eng. Come in, or, Certainly.) Q. Monsieur 
 H., est-il a la maison ? or, est-il chez lui ? (Pro. Mossiew 
 H., esteel ah la myesomg ? or, esteel sha luee ? Eng. Mr. H., 
 is he in the house? or, is he at home?) A. Oui, Monsieur, 
 Mom. H, est dans sa chambre. (Pro. Wee, Mossiew, Mossiew 
 H. a don sah shombr. Eng. Yes, sir, Mr. H. is in his room.) 
 Q Puis-je le voir? (Pro. Pweege sje leh vwar? Eng. Can 
 I see him?) Or, Demande: lui s'il puet me recevoir. (Pro. 
 Daymanday luee see peut me raysayvwar. Eng. Ask him if 
 he is able to see me.) A. Non, Monsieur, Mon*. H. n'est pas 
 a la maison; or, n'est pas die: lui. (Pro. Nong, Mossiew, 
 Mossiew H. neeay |>ah ah lah myeson; or, neeay pah sha luee 
 Eng. No, sir, Mr. H. is not in the house ; or, is not at home.) 
 Q, .A qiielle lien re rentrer a-t-il f (Pro. Ah kel oor rontrara- 
 tecl? Eng. At what hour will he return?) Remettez mon 
 carte ci Mans. H., s il vous plait. (Pro. Kametta mon cari ah 
 Mossiew H., seel voo play. Eng. Send my card to Mr. H., 
 il you please.) 
 
Funny Pencillings in Europe. 131 
 
 language. 
 
 Parlez vous le Français? [Pro. Parlay vue leh Fronsay ? Eng. 
 Do you speak French?) Parlez vous l'Anglais? (Pro. Par- 
 Lay voo longglay ? Eng. Do you speak English ?) Y' a-t-il 
 quelqu'un ici qui parie l'Anglais? (Pro. Eecateel kelkoon 
 esee kee par] Longglay? Eng. Is any one here who speaks 
 English?) M'entendez vous? (Pro. Mantanday vous ? Eng. 
 Do you understand me?) Me comprenez vous? (Pro Me 
 compranay voo ? Eng. Do you comprehend me?) Je vous 
 comprends tres-bien. (Pro. Sje voo comprond tray beeon. 
 Eng. I understand you, very well.) Je ne vous comprends 
 pas. (Pro. Sje ne voo comprond pah. Eng. I do not under- 
 stand you.) Qui appeliez vous, etc. (Pro. Cappella voo, etc. 
 Eng. What do you call, etc.) Répétez, s'il vous plait ; or, ré- 
 pétez, je vous prie. (Pro. Raypaytay, seel voo play; or, ray- 
 pee tay sje voo pree. Eng. Repeat, if you please, or, I beg 
 you.) Je parle mal de Français: parlez plus doucement, je 
 vous prie (Pro. Sje pari mal deh Fronsay : parlay ploo 
 ducemong, sje voo pree. Eng. I speak bad French: speak 
 more slowly, I beg you. I 
 
 IN SUDDEN SICKNESS OR ACCIDENT. 
 
 Je suis malade. (Pro. Sje swee mahlad. Eng. I am sick'.) Je 
 suis très malade. {Pro. Sje swee tray mahlad. Eng. I am 
 very sick.) J'ai mal a la tete. (Pro. Sjay mal ah lah tayt. 
 Eng. I have sickness in the head.) Ma jambe est cassée. (Pro. 
 Ma jhomb a cazzay. Eng. My leg [or my arm — mon bras, 
 brah] is broken.) Je vous prie de nie faire conduite immédi- 
 atement chez un pharmacien. (Pro. Sje voo pree deh me fair 
 condwee immeedjatemong shez oon pharmahsheeon. Eng. 1 
 beg you to have me taken at once to a doctor's shop.) Con- 
 duisez moi immédiatement chez un docteur Anglais, Messieurs, 
 je vous prie. (Pro. Conweesa mwa immeedjatemong chez oon 
 clocter Ongglay,' Messiew, sje voo pree. Eng. Take me im- 
 mediately to an English doctor, gentlemen, I beg you.) 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
INDEX 
 
 Views of Scotland and England. By Alice J. Osborne, Boston 
 La Grande République. By W. W. Eunyan, A. M., Marion, N. Y 
 
 Paris. By Mary B. Ingham, Cleveland, Ohio 
 
 From Chamounix to Genoa. By Mrs. K. M. Bruce, Lynn, Mass. 
 
 Rome to London. By C. W. Barron. Boston 
 
 Reminiscences of Rome. By Juliette Wyman, Boston. . 
 Rome. By Mrs. E. C. Marsh, Haydenville, Mass. . . . 
 A Visit to the Pope. By A. F. Lewis, Fryeburg, Maine, 
 Vesuvius and Pompeii. By B. H. Polk. Vicksburg, Miss. 
 
 The Rhine. By a Tourist 
 
 European Railroads. By Rev. H. W. Jones, St. Johnsbury, Vt 
 
 Pagk. 
 3 
 
 !) 
 
 12 
 
 16 
 
 22 
 
 28 
 
 43 
 
 46 
 51 
 55 
 
Appendix. 
 
 VIEWS OF SCOTLAND AND ENGLAND. 
 
 BY ALICE J. OSBORNE, BOSTON. 
 
 "We came in sight of the Irish coast Monday eve, at 6 P. M., 
 and although the eve was stormy, fog thick and wind piercing, 
 the passengers thronged on deck to have a view of blessed 
 terra firma once more. It will be strange to you to know that 
 at 11 o'clock p. m. it was yet light, but in this northern lati- 
 tude there are only two or three hours of darkness. At 10 
 p. m. the pilot came on board, bringing with him a bundle of 
 morning papers, and such a scramble for those papers ! I 
 finally succeeded in getting one, but judge of the disgust of 
 the whole company when we found no American news what- 
 ever, except a small unimportant announcement of a 4th of 
 July accident, and did not even mention where that occurred. 
 And so it is here in Europe. The London press has columns of 
 news about the Zulu war, French politics, court items, etc., but 
 three inches of space will condense the American news. If 
 the Queen cuts her nails, or the Princess bangs her hair in- 
 stead of frizzing it, or the Lord High Chancellor of the Royal 
 Exchequer stubs his toe, it is made the subject of a long and 
 exhaustive article, but our great Republic is nothing but a 
 " howling wilderness," at least so one would think to examine 
 the London dailies. However I'll quiet my wrath sufficiently 
 to proceed with our trip. Tuesday morning, July 8th, saw us 
 steaming up the Clyde, and indeed half the romance and beauty 
 of the scene was lost to me through the ludicrousness of the 
 situation. Every poor, unfortunate Scotchman on the boat 
 was tackled by a tourist, note-book in hand, and unmercifully 
 pumped. (I neglected to say that at Greenock we were trans- 
 ferred to one of the Clyde steamers). I almost expected to 
 see them vanish into thin air after the operation. At Glasgow 
 we landed and were driven to the Grand Hotel, and it was 
 
4 Appendix. 
 
 graud. But it was amusing to see the people turn out en 
 masse to view us. Tom, Dick and Harry, with his " sisters 
 and his cousins and his aunts," stared wonderingly at us, and 
 evidently thought that Scotland was invaded and about to be 
 taken. One of our party overheard one say to another, 
 " What's the matter here?" and the reply was, " Oh, a thou- 
 sand Americans have just come." I suppose we did present 
 a, spectacle. A long procession of vehicles crowded with trav- 
 elers with "big box, little box, band box and bundle." How- 
 ever, we had a charming time at Glasgow. Do you know that 
 Glasgow is twice as large as Cincinnati? I never knew that. 
 Wednesday morning we started on our tour through the 
 Scottish lake region, and oh ! what a day it was ! At Ballock 
 Pier (whither we went by rail from Glasgow) we took steamer 
 through Lock Lomond. I little thought when I used to sing 
 the Scotch song beginning, " The sun has gone down o'er the 
 lofty Ben Lomond," that I would be privileged to view his 
 purple ruggedness through the eyes of flesh instead of those 
 of imagination, and I believe I fully appreciated the privilege. 
 As we neared the pier at Stronachlocker (don't try to pro- 
 nounce that, it will give you the lockjaw) the scene was inde- 
 scribably grand. Ben Lomond frowned upon us almost over- 
 head, Ben Venne, Ben Voirleck and other peaks closing about 
 us. At Stronachlocker we took a coach for Inversaid, a glo- 
 rious ride of six miles over the Highlands. Think of a pro- 
 cession of coaches, open vehicles, each holding twenty-five 
 jolly people, and then conclude whether or not we enjoyed 
 that ride. We then took the little steamer " Rob Roy " for 
 the length of lovely little Lock Katrine, and you lovers of 
 Walter Scott, fancy the treat we had in viewing the histor- 
 ical scenes made memorable by his pen. We passed Ellen's 
 Isle, the abode of fair Ellen of the Lady of the Lake, saw the 
 Goblin's Cave and other hiding places of Rob Roy, the spot 
 of the encounter between Fitz James and Roderick Dhu, Lan- 
 dirck Mead the Muster place, and many other intensely inter- 
 esting spots. As we neared the Trossachs, the climax of 
 beauty was reached — the loveliest view I ever saw. After 
 lunch at the hotel we had another magnificent drive of eleven 
 miles through the Trossachs (a wild glen of great beauty) to^ 
 Callander. I wish I could convey to you the enjoyment of 
 that ride, but there are not words enough in the dictionary to 
 tell you how glorious it was. Well, the spirit was upon me, 
 and I sang Scotch songs, all I ever knew. But I must hasten.. 
 
Appendix. 5 
 
 At Callander we took the cars for Stirling, where we 
 stopped long enough to view the Castle, from the top of 
 which we had the finest view in Scotland. Resuming the 
 cars, we arrived in the beautiful city of Edinburgh at 7 p. m., 
 and went to the Royal Hotel, where we were handsomely en- 
 tertained. The hotel is opposite the park in which is situated 
 the famous monument to Sir Walter Scott, in full view of the 
 Castle, Calton Hill, Salisburg Craig, and other notable places. 
 Next day parties were formed for visiting Abbotsford, Mel- 
 rose and Roslin, but, as I had not fully recovered from that 
 wretched experience on ship-board, I decided to rest, in view 
 of the hard work to be done in London. Friday we were 
 taken to Craigmillar Castle, three miles from Edinburgh, a 
 grand old ruin, and a favorite resort of Mary Queen of Scots. 
 In her bed-room we were shown a work-basket and some 
 china said to be hers. Considering that basket to be at least 
 three hundred years old, I thought it was in a remarkable 
 state of preservation, and when I had a quiet opportunity I 
 said to the old guide, "Do you honestly believe that basket 
 ever belonged to Mary Queen of Scots?" His reply, in broad 
 Scotch, was brief, but pointed: " Madam, I have my doubts." 
 After Craigmillar, we took the famous Queen's Drive, 
 around an eminence affording a fine view of the city; thence 
 to Holy rood Palace. The Palace is not a ruin, as I supposed, 
 but in tolerably good repair. Indeed, a part of it is annually 
 used by the Queen when she visits Edinburgh. But the part 
 connected with poor Mary Stuart is open to the public. First 
 we were shown the picture gallery, a very large hall with por- 
 traits of Scottish Royalty, for about a million years I should say, 
 or something less, by the number of them, then the apartments 
 of Lord Darnley. While the crowd were viewing these rooms, 
 I slipped away alone to find those of Queen Mary. I found 
 the one answering the description in my guide, where Rizzio 
 was murdered, and was calling up all the emotions proper to 
 the occasion, when I found I was mistaken. It was the room 
 above. So I restrained them till I went up to the proper room, 
 and by that time the crowd began to arrive, and I had no 
 chance for sentiment. But, nonsense aside, it did leave a 
 strange impression to see her furniture, bed with faded hang- 
 ings, tapestry, etc., and then again at Edinburgh Castle to go 
 into the rooms where her son (afterward James I. of England) 
 was born, and, when eight days old, was let down out of the 
 window four hundred feet over the rocks in a basket, and con- 
 
6 Appendix. 
 
 veyed away in safety from his enemies. Indeed, Holyrood 
 had such a fascination for me that I afterward took a carriage 
 and drove back again to view the ancient pile, that has been 
 the scene of so much happiness and misery. But again I 
 must hasten. We saw John Knox's house, "White; Horse 
 tavern, where Ben. Jonson lived, and many other places of 
 interest which I have not space to mention. 
 
 Friday, with universal regret, we left Edinburgh. Riding 
 all night by special train, we reached Kenil worth at 6 next 
 morning, where we breakfasted. Kenilworth Castle is the 
 most imposing ruin we have yet seen. I was prepared to be 
 interested, from its historical associations, but was not pre- 
 pared for such massive grandeur, such great stretch of towers, 
 battlements and walls. It was a miserable, muggy, rainy 
 morning when we visited the ruins — enough to take the poeti- 
 cal romance out of anything — but I do not believe there was 
 one of all that company but was impressed by the lonely 
 grandeur of that magnificent ruin. We saw the banqueting 
 hall where the Earl of Leicester so royally entertained Queen 
 Elizabeth, looked into the gloomy depth of the well where 
 history tells us the unhappy Amy Robsart was thrown, 
 although I believe that Sir Walter Scott disposes of her dif- 
 ferently. 
 
 From Kenilworth we went to Stratford-on-Avon. Of course 
 the first place of interest was the house in which the world's 
 greatest creative genius, Shakespeare, was born. It did seem 
 strange to walk through the rooms, go up and down the stairs, 
 look through the same windows where the immortal Shakes- 
 peare spent his youthful days. Yes, more than strange; it 
 seemed almost sacrilege for a troop of curious travelers, note- 
 book in hand, to go wandering idly through the rooms, some 
 of whom I verily believe hardly knew whether Shakespeare 
 was a king or a boot-black. Afterward we visited the Shakes- 
 peare memorial church in the ancient graveyard on the banks 
 of the quiet Avon, where lies the body of the poet. A beau- 
 tiful church, with handsome stained-glass windows, one of 
 which, representing the " Seven Ages of Man," is called the 
 " American Window," from American contributions. 
 
 Once more on the cars, and four hours brings us within the 
 smoky precincts of London. Here our section, numbering 
 sixty-four, separates from the other divisions, goiug to the 
 Grosvenor Hotel, and I, for one, am very sorry to part with 
 friends made in the other divisions. However, we expect to 
 
Appendix. 7 
 
 meet in Rome. This morning we* went to hear the famous 
 Spurgeon, unci, through the courtesy of a pew-holder, we had 
 splendid seats, very near the pulpit. We were there an hour 
 before service. At a given signal, one of the ushers clapping 
 his hands three times, all those waiting for seats took those 
 that were vacant, after which the outer doors were opened, 
 and such a stream of humanity as poured into that building! 
 They say it seats 6,000, and it was certainly full. I saw mem- 
 bers of all our divisions in various parts of the house. I was 
 disappointed in Spurgeon's appearance, but not in his preach- 
 ing. He is a dull, stolid-looking man, but preached a good, 
 practical, gospel sermon. Text — Hosea v : 15. There was no 
 organ or other instrument. Singing led by a Precentor with 
 a voice like a fog-horn. This afternoon went to Westminster 
 Abbey, and were again fortunate enough to obtain seats when 
 multitudes stood, one lady near me fainting away. What can 
 I say about Westminster, with its magnificent architecture, its 
 wilderness of statues and its imposing service ? It will be im- 
 possible to convey to you by pen what was conveyed to me by 
 sight and sound. The sermon was by Canon Farrar, instead 
 of Dean Stanley, the regular rector. I heard others say it was 
 good, but, as for me, I could not tell whether it was good or 
 not. I did not hear it. I was lost to everything but the 
 beauty and grandeur of the edifice, and music by the boy 
 choir. I think if the angel Gabriel had preached I could no 
 more than have told the text. I shall go to Westminster 
 again at my leisure. 
 
 Shall I say in as few words as possible how England im- 
 presses me; and Scotland as well? I like the Scotch people 
 — they are courteous, sincere, and so solid. John Bull, how- 
 over, is John Bull at home as well as abroad ; civil enough if he 
 is let alone, but beware how you step on his corns. But I don't 
 like the way they have of doing things. Their cars are so 
 queer ; little boxes holding four or eight, entered from the 
 side, then you are locked in, no comforts or conveniences. 
 And their engines, contemptible looking affairs, as if they 
 hadn't got their growth. But I do confess to traveling with a 
 greater sense of security than in America. They tell me acci- 
 dents are rare. Our special train from Edinburgh to London 
 caused great wonderment along the route, as the spectacle of 
 twenty first-class carriages on one train is almost unheard of, 
 as the great mass of the people travel second-class. Then the 
 hotels are so queerly furnished. No stationary wash-stands 
 
8 Appendix. 
 
 and no gas. What would we think at home of the Grand 
 Hotel of Cincinnati, or the St. Nicholas of New York, being 
 lighted by candles? It does seem too odd. But they say it is 
 so all over London, and will be so all over the continent: no 
 gas in hotels, except in the parlors, dining-rooms and halls; 
 and by the way, this half inch of my candle warns me that I 
 must draw this to a close. But I will say a word about dining 
 in courses. I suppose we may as well get accustomed to ir, 
 for that's the way it will be until we get back home ; but as for 
 me, I don't like this eating in instalments. First a little soup, 
 then fish, then something else, then meat, then something else, 
 then vegetables, then something else, then dessert, then salad, 
 then cheese, each time a grand change of plates with a flour- 
 ish. I often feel as I finish my dinner that I would like to go 
 to the nearest restaurant and order " corned beef and cabbage 
 and plenty of it." Perhaps these Europeans think that we 
 Americans who come over to view their castles, relics, etc., 
 are so tilled with emotions that it is not necessary to till us 
 with anything else. But I am like the small boy who thought 
 water was "fillin' but not sustainin'." Emotions will do occa- 
 sionally, but not for steady diet. 
 
 However, we are having a grand time. Our conductors are 
 gentlemen, consulting our wishes and pleasure constantly, as 
 for instance, when at breakfast one morning in Edinburgh, by 
 hearing for the first time, first a real Scotch bagpipe, next a 
 real Highland piper brought into the dining-room by Mr. 
 Gray, conductor of the 2d section. Our conductor, Mr. Abele, 
 a Frenchman, is very courteous, and the girls declare " too 
 handsome for anything." To-morrow we go to St. Paul, South 
 Kensington Museum, Crystal Palace, the Tower, etc., and in 
 the evening a small party of us go to hear Nilsson and Kel- 
 logg, both in Mignon ; and Tuesday evening shall hear Ad- 
 elina Patti in Faust. I shall not have come to Europe in vain 
 if I hear Patti. We have Tuesday and Wednesday also here, 
 and Wednesday night are off for Paris. 
 
 But these Europeans don't know how to keep a hotel. And 
 their money! Dear me, how it does bother me to remember 
 that a "penny" is two cents, and " trip-pence" is four cents, 
 and a " six-pence " is twelve cents, and a shilling is twenty- 
 four cents, and a crown is $1.24, etc., etc. But enough of this. 
 My candle is almost out. 
 
Appendix. 
 
 LA GRANDE REPUBLIQUE. 
 
 BY W. W. RUNYAN, MARION, N. Y. 
 
 I. 
 
 Vive la belle France! From far ascends the cry. 
 Long live fair France! our pealing shouts reply. 
 Land of Gambetta, land of Lafayette, 
 Our fathers loved thee, and we love thee yet. 
 Land of Corneille, who nerved thy gentle tongue 
 To voice dramatic grandeurs when he sung; 
 Land of great Hugo, laureled king of men, 
 Whose realm is thought, whose scepter is the pen; 
 Land of Thiers, Guizot, De Stael, Racine, 
 Sweet Fenelon, and fervid Lamartine, 
 Pierre, Dauguerre, La Place, and Fontenelle, 
 Columbia loves thee more than verse may tell. 
 Thou giant champion of the hopes of man, 
 We hail the free, erect, Republican ! 
 O, land of song, of science, and romance, 
 Proud warriors' tramp and peasants' jocund dance, 
 Of bowers and sunshine and the luscious vine, 
 On thy fair plains, lo ! Freedom rears her shrine. 
 
 II. 
 
 Too oft, alas ! have shrieks thy heavens rent, 
 And throned oppression scoffed thy loud lament; 
 Too oft thy hopes dissolved in idle dreams, 
 And fruitless gore enriched thy gliding streams, 
 While tyrants foul have stained Ihy sacred sod, 
 And fouler atheists dared blaspheme their God ! 
 Oft Havoc's cry has chilled thy shudd'ring air, 
 
10 Appendix. 
 
 While cities reddened in her torch's glare: 
 Proud fane and forum, palace, temple, spire, 
 Dew-like exhaled before the vandal tire; 
 The Ax grew drunken at the bloody block, 
 Hope fled affrighted from the hellish shock, 
 While maniac Riot, mad with gory lust, 
 Stamped truth, law, virtue, victims in the dust. 
 Art groaned to see her stately fabrics fall, 
 And conscious Nature donned an ashen pall. 
 Scarce frowned such horror on the seething main 
 When primal Chaos held its ancient reign. 
 
 III. 
 
 How changed the scene ! New hopes, new visions rise 
 
 To bless the lands and daze their wishful eyes. 
 
 Upstarting strong, yet lovely as a bud 
 
 From out a soil of ashes and of blood, 
 
 Enfranchised France holds Europe's wond'ring gaze, 
 
 And startles monarchs with a sore amaze. 
 
 Fresh life awakes the pulses of her soul ; 
 
 Fresh tides of glory through her being roll. 
 
 She sees again her bright tri-color wave 
 
 In folds triumphant o'er the free and brave. 
 
 Where late the scepter armed a despot's hand, 
 
 Now smiling Peace extends her magic wand ; 
 
 Glad music breathes where sadness poured her moan, 
 
 And bloom again the glories that had flown. 
 
 New France the homage of mankind compels, 
 
 Since Liberty with Law concordant dwells. 
 
 To her in hope the sighing millions turn, 
 
 And from her trial docile nations learn. 
 
 IV. 
 
 Land of my sires, the banished Huguenot, 
 
 As now I muse the exile's mournful lot, 
 
 A nameless longing all my spirit thrills: 
 
 I pant to tread — to kiss — thy vine-clad hills, 
 
 To quaff the story of thine Arts and Arms, 
 
 And test the magic of thy countless charms. 
 
 Belle vue! Spurn kingcraft still, and traitors' toils; 
 
 Bid Commerce win on sunny seas her spoils; 
 
 Bid Labor thrive the lord of his own vine, 
 
Appendix. 11 
 
 Which o'er their cot a queenly Love shall twine ; 
 Bid Knowledge light on all thy hills her torch, 
 And lure thy children to her sacred porch ; 
 Bid holy Conscience, free from gag and chain, 
 Revere her God in forest, field, or fane; 
 And War, the vulture, tempt — 0, nevermore — 
 To tear thy limbs and batten on thy gore. 
 So shall the Muse in rapt prophetic trance 
 Hymn lofty peans to thy future, France! 
 
12 Appendix. 
 
 PARIS. 
 
 Versailles, its Gardens and Fountains — Burial Places of Kings 
 
 and Queens. 
 
 BY MARY B. INGHAM, CLEVELAND, OHIO. 
 
 Paris is delightfully clean, apparent from the moment we 
 come in sight of the gilded dome of the Hotel des Invalides, 
 visible for miles before we enter the city proper. We paid a 
 visit to this celebrated building and found that but one hun- 
 dred and twenty veterans of the Imperial Army are quartered 
 here. The Republic intends making a military school of it 
 before long. The Tomb of Napoleon, just in rear of this, is 
 one of the loveliest and most restful spots in this restless world 
 of impulsive and revolutionary people. The sarcophagus con- 
 sists of an immense block of polished granite brought from 
 Finland, weighing nearly sixty tons, and it cost over 135,000 
 francs. Tattered and faded battle-flags, grouped at regular in- 
 tervals, surrounded it. The vault wherein this grand tomb 
 awes the sight is an open crypt twenty feet deep and thirty-six 
 feet across, with shining granite walls which bear ten reliefs 
 representing the various Councils and Administrations of 
 France. Its pavement is mosaic, with names of Napoleon's 
 principal victories encircled with laurel wreaths; colossal 
 Caryatides, a silent guard, twelve in number, also symbolize 
 the warrior's triumphs. The back of the magnificent altar, 
 dedicated to St. Louis, bears the familiar words: "I desire 
 that my ashes may repose on the banks of the Seine, in the 
 midst of the French people whom I have loved so well." 
 Under the same dome are four other burial places — those of 
 Napoleon's faithful aids, Du roc and Bertrand — also of Jerome 
 
Appendix. 13 
 
 Bonaparte, King of Westphalia, dead since 1860, and of Jo- 
 seph Bonaparte, King of Spain, who died 1844. 
 
 There is yet ample space for Napoleon III. and his ill-fated 
 son, Louis Eugene, Prince Imperial, whose early death hoth 
 England and France now deplore; but who is there to bring 
 their remains from Chiselhurst? Surely the childless widow 
 must weep that in the great past she only reigned queen of 
 fashion, not queen of hearts. 
 
 Notre Dame Cathedral, where the Emperors of France have 
 all been crowned and married, demanded a large share of our 
 attention. The inevitable beggar asking for alms, and the 
 curiosity vender with marvelous works of art valued each at a 
 franc or less, haunt its entrance and almost prevent egress. 
 
 From this some of us visited the Morgue; not from a 
 morbid desire to behold unpleasant things, but for real in- 
 formation as to the unfortunate dead. About three hundred 
 and fifty people annually commit suicide in the Seine. These 
 bodies are exposed on zinc stretchers, with head and shoulders 
 raised against an inclined plane; those advanced in decompo- 
 sition are behind the others, with streams of ice water falling 
 upon them. I saw but one body ; that was of a sad-looking 
 man dressed in black, his pale face pitifully asking for friends 
 among the crowd gazing through the barred screen. The 
 Louvre, with its miles of pictures, the Pantheon, Places de la 
 Bastile, de la Concorde, Vendôme, Arc de Triomphe, were- 
 all visited. One of the most interesting buildings was the 
 Chapelle Expiatoire, situated in the Rue d'Anjou St. Honore r 
 erected as expiation for the cruel deaths of Louis XVI. and 
 Marie Antoinette. The French have a strange way of mur- 
 dering people and then feeling repentant afterward, and giving 
 permanent expression thereto in chapels open daily for mass 
 and for the souls of the abused departed. We have enjoyed 
 delightful drives through the grand boulevards, looked in upon 
 the Jardin des Plantes, Luxembourg, and the dismantled Tuil- 
 eries, and by gaslight through the popular promenade and 
 pleasure grounds of Parisians — the Champs Elysees. The gas 
 companies now furnish illumination, as well as the electrical 
 light people, so that there is no lack of brilliant effect. Each 
 vehicle carries a lamp, and the panorama of moving lights is 
 curious enough, as there are thousands of wheeled convey- 
 ances. Much of the beauty of Paris is due to Napoleon III., 
 who widened streets, built sewers, and effected other transfor- 
 mations impossible to any but a heroic soul. 
 
14 Appendix. 
 
 The Buttes Chanmont is the most picturesque part of Belle- 
 ville, the Five Points of Paris. Here originated the Com- 
 mune, and the inhabitants of that quarter look hard enough 
 to engineer another 1871 campaign. Marks of their petro- 
 leum shell-! and other dreadful conceptions are everywhere. 
 We passed the Roquette Prison, and just in front saw the fine 
 foundation stones of the Guillotine. The streets on both sides 
 are tilled with dealers in relics, crosses and immortelles, and 
 with manufacturers of tombstones, for Père le Chaise is the 
 favorite home of Parisian dead. 
 
 The grand cafes and open air resorts for eating and drink- 
 ing speak volumes for the lack of home life in this wonderful 
 city. Multitudes of people, coming from incomprehensible 
 places, seem to live in the cafes and streets, in one of which 
 we drank some of the best coffee ever poured out. 
 
 Since reading Jean Valjean's exploits in "Les Misérables" 
 I have desired to see the sewers here, but access is difficult to 
 obtain. These extend for two hundred miles underground, 
 are lighted with gas, and traversed in small tram-cars, and 
 discharge into the Seine ten miles below the city. 
 
 Outside of Paris we spent three days; two at Versailles, 
 penetrating even into the secret chamber of Marie Antoinette. 
 The magnificence of this palace is rigidly preserved. Among 
 its elegant contributions to art we select " David's Coronation 
 of Josephine by Napoleon," a painting of nameless power, 
 and Vela's statue of "Napoleon's Last Hours at St. Helena," 
 in the same room, as the greatest achievements. The contrast 
 depicted by brush and chisel brought forcibly to mind the fact 
 that Josephine's child sat upon the throne of the empire, not 
 Marie Louise's, and the discarded Queen yet lives pre-eminent 
 — one of the strange retributions of an omniscient Providence. 
 
 Is there anything artificial more beautiful than the gardens 
 and fountains of Versailles? Yet it is the touch of nature in 
 bloom and water that causes the exterior to eclipse by far the 
 interior of this historic patchwork. The grand Trianon and 
 state carriages were duly inspected, and we never expect to 
 look upon anything more gorgeous than the coach prepared 
 for Charles X. and remodeled for Napoleon III. 
 
 St. Cloud, now a dreary ruin, destroyed by the French to 
 save its sacking by the Prussians, reminded us sadly of some 
 of the faux pas of our own civil war. Yesterday, by dint of 
 much effort, we spent our third day outside the city at St. 
 Denis, visiting the burial places of fifty Kings and Queens, 
 
Appendix. 15 
 
 beginning with Dagobert, first King of France, who died in 
 755; Clovis, his son, and the remainder of his posterity. In 
 a dreadful cell, where a light is kept constantly burning, we 
 saw the iron coffins into which were put the royal victims 
 of the Revolution, after their heads were cut off. I never 
 want to visit St. Denis again — it is too dreary — most of which 
 we saw by the flame of a lamp borne by a lugubrious guide, 
 who spoke mournful French very slowly for our especial benefit. 
 Not all the historic interest centering in Paris and Versailles, 
 not all the grandeur of an Empire whose glory is departed, 
 not all the fatigue attendant upon the multum in parvo of an 
 excursion, sufficed to keep our ladies out of the shops. Our 
 funds were willingly exchanged for gloves and laces, for 
 dresses of silk and of velvet, for cardinal capes and bewitch- 
 in a- bonnets, to be sent to London awaiting our departure for 
 America; and pin-money melted like snow in the sun in the 
 presence of the Magasin au Petit Thomas and the Beau Mar- 
 chais. Thus it always is ; the feminine instinct hath ever its 
 own way, and the lords of creation sigh in vain over green- 
 backs transformed into golden napoleons and drawn from the 
 pocket by the magic of woman's wiles. 
 
16 Appendix. 
 
 FROM CHAMOUNIX TO GENOA. 
 
 Mount Blanc in the Summer — Through Glaciers and Tete Noire 
 Pass — Milan and Lago Maggiore — Italy's King at Genoa. 
 
 BY MRS. K. M. BRUCE, LYNN, MASS. 
 
 My last letter took you to the eve of our departure for 
 Chamounix. Well, bright and early next morning we got up 
 to a glorious day and our first diligence- ride. We chose to 
 start at 7, so as to get there an hour earlier. We were twenty- 
 two, counting the driver and brakemen, in the great lumber- 
 ing affair, with six horses, three abreast, and they went gallop- 
 ing along. 
 
 Old Mount Blanc's white night-cap went dodging about, 
 now here, now there, as we wound along the smooth road, 
 and about 11 o'clock we came in fall view of his majestic pro- 
 portions. The sky was blue as blue can be, and that dazzling 
 whiteness cut clearly against, and seemingly overhung us. 
 Nearer and nearer we came, till we wound around into the 
 level and smiling valley of the Chamounix, where was the 
 Mount Blanc range, with its glaciers coming right beside us. 
 It chokes in my throat as I write, and I can only grieve that 
 no pen can describe to you a faint conception of what our two' 
 last weeks have been. We had a long time to gaze upon the 
 scene before dinner, and after dinner we went out into the 
 gardens, and looked right up at the dome, and through a tele- 
 scope we could see the light of a little chalet at the highest 
 point before beginning the real ascent, and looking away into 
 the great chasms in the snow. 
 
 The next morning, after breakfast, forty of us mounted 
 
Appendix. 17 
 
 mules, with funny saddles, like a chair, while many more 
 started for a walk. 
 
 The gait of those mules was ludicrous in the extreme. With 
 much laughter we started for the famous glacier, the " Mer de 
 Glace" (sea of ice). For two or three miles the road was 
 level, and then we struck the mountain. A narrow zig-zag 
 path is made up the face of it, so that one could call through 
 the trees to another riding three rods ahead of him, and you 
 can well imagine much fun was had, as well as many exclama- 
 tions of astonishment, when at a new turn the beauties of the 
 scene rose more and more to view. 
 
 Two hours and a half of this brought us to the chalet, where 
 we dismounted and took our alpenstocks for the sharp descent 
 to the glacier. We had a guide to every two persons, and 
 with a hot scramble we reached the bottom, and then ! came 
 the crossing. 
 
 With a firm plunge of the alpenstock, and a leap with the 
 aid of the guide's hand, we crossed from hummock to hum- 
 mock, over little rivers of pure cold glacier water, nearly a 
 mile to the opposite side. We looked down crevices where 
 no mortal who should fall there would ever return alive, and 
 threw rocks down to hear them bound till the sound was lost. 
 
 O , with some others, went on around down the Mauvais 
 
 Pas and home another way, but the most of us returned to the 
 top of the mountain — over six thousand feet — and descended 
 to Chamounix again, reaching there at 9:80 p. m., well jolted, 
 I can assure you. 
 
 My particular mule seemed to appreciate the weight of his 
 burden. He would plant three feet, and "boost" with the 
 fourth. I said to the conductor, " Be sure you get me a big- 
 mule now, you know I am heavy." The conductor said, " Oh, 
 Messis Bruce, you may be sure of that. The guide wants not 
 to lose his ?nule. : " 
 
 The next morning we were put into carriages, holding four, 
 to cross the mountains to Vernayaz, our first experience in 
 rough roads, which, added to the lameness of the mule ride 
 and the dust of so many carriages, all whirling down hill 
 whenever the horses could trot, made it a memorable day. 
 
 We went through the Tete Noire Pass, where we saw the 
 wildest of wild scenery; now looking up from the bottom of 
 a ravine, the great cliffs like huge jaws threatening to crush 
 us. now hundreds of feet in thu air, tunneling the rock or on 
 galleries built out and overhanging the precipice, and every. 
 
18 A PPENDIX.. 
 
 where that a patch of ground could be found where it was 
 possible for a hill of potatoes or a square yard of grass to 
 grow would be seen the little chalet and the industrious family, 
 all at work in the open air. 
 
 About 5 p. m. we reached the last climb, and there right 
 before us, like a long lane between the mountains, was the 
 valley of the Rhone, and then began the descent. 
 
 Wo again repeated the zig-zag, I know not how many times, 
 but 1 counted forty-five times, never losing sight of the valley, 
 until at last we reached level ground and bowled away up the 
 valley to our hotel, " The Hotel des Gorges du Trient," 
 directly opposite the gorge and river which gives it its name. 
 Such a lovely hotel, and, after the dust was washed oft", such 
 a dinner! But I can't afford to waste my adjectives on hotels, 
 when such grand scenery is in view. 
 
 As soon as we had eaten, we started out by the light of the 
 full moon to enter the gorge. 
 
 Imagine a stream working its way for countless centuries 
 through solid rock, till it has worn for itself a tortuous bed 
 through rock some 600 feet high — width varying from 16 to 
 60 feet, and in some places the water 30 and even 40 feet deep, 
 of a milky color, and rushing over rocks and down falls with 
 terrific roar and dashing spray. Then this gorge crossed and 
 re-crossed by a slight foot-bridge, that trembles with the thun- 
 ders of the torrent, and wonder not at the exclamation of a 
 gentleman who came out as we went in, "Ladies and gentle- 
 men, I feel as if I had seen God.'' 
 
 After enjoying the scene awhile we came out, and retired 
 to recuperate for the morrow's trip. 
 
 In the morning wè went two hours' distance in the cars, and 
 then commenced the long looked for diligence ride on Napo- 
 leon's road, the Simplon Pass. Was ever such a day! It was 
 intensely hot, but the mountain breezes tempered the heat to 
 us, and we ascended by the ever-recurring doubles, higher and 
 higher, losing the Rhone valley again and again till just be- 
 fore we reached the summit, after 8 p. m., for the last time we 
 saw it apparently only a few miles distant,. and then began a 
 frolic, a game of snow ball on August 1st. lee, ice water, 
 fragments of glaciers were around us everywhere. Vegeta- 
 tion was reduced to Alpine roses and short grass. We were 
 above the snow line, and now we entered upon the dangerous 
 part of our route. 
 
 For lono* distances shelters of stone are built against the 
 
Appendix. 19 
 
 {mountain, with holes above to let the light in, and holes below 
 for the goats to come in at, and in one place a waterfall came 
 directly on our heads, and we looked down hundreds of feet 
 through the sheet of water which threw its spray in our faces. 
 
 Every fifteen or twenty minutes there were "refugee" 
 houses, where storm-bound travelers can go for shelter. 
 
 Soon we came to the celebrated Hospice. Alighting, we 
 entered and were welcomed by the monks, who showed us 
 into a room where they offered us bread and wine. We par- 
 took of the courtesy, patted the great St. Bernard dogs, and 
 again wended our way, now passing the summit, and rapidly 
 descending, till we came down into the celebrated " Gorge of 
 Gondo," the wildest and grandest bit of scenery in all Switzer- 
 land. Great convulsions of nature, assisted by a stream of 
 water, have produced a gorge of the same nature as the 
 ■" Gorge du Trient," which I have described, only man}' times 
 more vast and awful. 
 
 It is too late now for avalanches, but we passed through 
 several of them, and saw many more which the summer's 
 sun had failed to diminish. At one place it had rushed down 
 the mountain side, tearing away the roadway, filling the bed 
 of the stream, and even clear across the ravine, some 60 to 80 
 feet deep. The snow had been tunneled in numbers of places, 
 and dug away in others, and we passed through those relics of 
 the winter's fury, breaking off snow and ice as we went, and 
 looking up at the frowning rocks overhead with a shudder for 
 those who must pass through in the dangerous times of the 
 year. 
 
 Soon we went past a monument with "Acre Italia, 1805 — 
 Nap. Imp.," and in another half hour we whirled through our 
 first Italian village, and passing the custom-house, continued 
 our journey through the valley. 
 
 After a while the full moon arose, and what was more, the 
 moon rose and set three times that night, as we descended 
 farther and farther into the valley. We stopped for dinner 
 at 9 p. m. and continued our ride by the beautiful Lago Mag- 
 • goire. We bowled along, thinking, and drinking in the beauty 
 of the scene ; and in the "wee morning hours " we drove into 
 a great hotel; our rooms were given us, and just as the red 
 glow of morning began to tinge the clouds and mountains we 
 crept into beds in a room fit for a bridal party. 
 
 That was a tremendous ride, but we slept late and break- 
 fasted at eleven. Then we took a row-boat with cushioned 
 
20 Appendix. 
 
 seats and awnings, and a swarthy Italian to row us out to the 
 lovely island of "Isola Bella" (beautiful island), where is the 
 chatteau of the Borromeo family, with its beautiful hanging- 
 gardens. We were captivated with its beauty, and its many 
 relics — the room where Napoleon I. had slept, where Queens 
 had been, the mosaics, marbles, pictures and fountains. It 
 was very delightful; and after rowing clear around the island, 
 Ave returned to the hotel and started for Arona, where we took 
 the cars, and in an hour or so we whirled into the station at 
 Milan. This was the first dirty railway ride we have had since 
 we left home. 
 
 Tn the court-yard sat Miss Lillian Norton and her mother, 
 who were anxiously expecting us. After dinner they invited 
 us to ride around the city, which we did. Lillian has made 
 great success here. She showed us some of the tokens of ap- 
 preciation and esteem which she has received in the different 
 cities where she has sung, and what is better still, she sang for 
 us. In the execution which she showed when she sang for me 
 two }*ears ago she has added much greater breadth of style, 
 and the dramatic stage manner, which insures success. She is 
 much thought of here. Last week she refused an offer from 
 Carl Rosa to sing in an English opera, and has offers from both 
 Mapleson and Strakosch. However, she is engaged in differ- 
 ent cities in Italy for the most of this coming fall and winter, 
 and cares not to come to America until she can come with 
 an established European reputation. May success attend her. 
 She has voice, beauty, and a winning manner, which cannot 
 fail of triumph. Sunday afternoon we invited her to sing for 
 the party, which she did to their great delight. 
 
 I have not spoken of the Cathedral. We attended service 
 there, the most unsatisfactory one I have heard, as there were 
 two separate ones going on at the same time, and it was a per- 
 fect jumble. It is a magnificent Cathedral. We were shown 
 many relics in silver, gold, carved work, embroidery, etc., and 
 in the crypt we saw the body of Cardinal Borromeo, the 
 founder of that famous family, who is held in great venera- 
 tion by the Milanese on account of his devotion to the people - 
 of Milan in the time of the great plague, for which he has 
 been canonized. 
 
 We did not make a long stay in Milan. I forgot to men- 
 tion that we heard the famous orchestra of the theater of " La 
 Scala." A magnificent band it is, too. 
 
 On Monday we started for Genoa — the dirtiest ride of all. 
 
Appendix. 21 
 
 We were like a procession of stokers and stokeresses when we 
 arrived there. It was early in the day, and the whole city was 
 draped up in carnival and festival attire, in recognition of 
 King Humbert's and Queen Marguerite's presence. 
 
 We saw the sights in the afternoon, and at night went up 
 to the "Via Roma" to see the King and Queen pass by with 
 their retinue. The whole city and the bay were illuminated. 
 The streets leading to the theater, where he was to come, were 
 hung with clusters of white fuschias, the sepals of each flower 
 being scarlet cups of burning oil. Then there were scarlet 
 and gold banners hung across the streets everywhere. Every 
 lamp-post had a wreath of Marguerites in gas jets, and oppo- 
 site the theater was one gigantic wreath of flame which cov- 
 ered one whole side of the building. 
 
 The procession passed close by us, their majesties bowing in 
 recognition of the "bravos" of the excited crowds, and when 
 they arrived at the theater they came out on the balcony and 
 remained some moments. The Queen is very beautiful, and 
 was magnificently dressed in white satin, lace' and diamonds. 
 The King is also handsome. 
 
 The whole scene was one long to be remembered. The 
 picturesque costumes of the Italians, the quaint old buildings, 
 the shouts of the multitude, and oh, the jam, when we came 
 back to the hotel ! 
 
 At 12 to-night we ascend Vesuvius, so as to see the sunrise 
 — to-morrow go on to Pompeii. 
 
22 Appendix. 
 
 ROME TO LONDON. 
 
 Along the Mediterranean — At Pisa and Genoa — Two Weeks in 
 Switzerland — Over the Simplon, Tele- Noir and Brunig Passes. 
 
 BY C. W. BARRON, BOSTON. 
 
 Probably the most interesting railway routes in Italy are to 
 be found upon the Maremme Railway, between Rome and 
 Pisa, and upon the continuation of this west-coast line to 
 Genoa. The first road carries one along the Mediterranean 
 shore and through Italian gardens and old Estruscan cities rich 
 in historic interest, while the second is for the most part cut 
 through the rocky cliffs which rise boldly from the sea. After 
 a night at Pisa and a morning drive among its palaces and 
 eighty churches, during which we rang the bells in the top of 
 the famous leaning tower, swung the lantern in the grand old 
 cathedral as it swung when it suggested to Galileo the idea of 
 a pendulum, awoke the long-ringing echoes in the old marble 
 baptistry, and trod the holy dust of the Campo Santo, we were 
 off for Genoa over this picturesque coast route. It was a suc- 
 cession of more than eighty tunnels, and the most charming 
 marine views set in frames of jagged black rock. One mo- 
 ment we were high above the Mediterranean, looking through 
 its clear waters at the white pebbles and sands beneath, or 
 watching its graceful ebb and How among the weed-covered 
 rocks; the next, we were in the heart of the mountains, and 
 then a gleam of sunlight would Hash through the car window 
 a view of an Italian town, crowded into a narrow ravine in the 
 mountains, busy with Italian life and bright with ancient fres- 
 coes; again smoke and darkness and then the Mediterranean, 
 
Appendix. 23 
 
 with its ever-changing colors, and flecked with many a sail. 
 The lemon gardens and olive groves were growing more and 
 more indistinct in the twilight when we descended from the 
 cars at Genoa, beside the colossal statue of Columbus, erected 
 not many years ago in the Piazza Acquaverde. The narrow, 
 tortuous and uneven streets of Genoa, with their frescoed walls 
 and mediaeval palaces, are of interest to every visitor; but the 
 most interesting spot to us was the Campo Santo, outside the 
 walls of the city. Having been surfeited with variegated mar- 
 ble, in churches and palaces, with marble busts, statues and 
 groups in all shades of Italian dirt, we welcomed the clear, 
 living stone of the tombs of the wealthy Genoese. Many of 
 the sculptures were novelties to be found nowhere else in the 
 world. These were decidedly modern, often ridiculously so. 
 When you see a youth carved in marble, arrayed in the most 
 fashionable garments of his day, narrow boots, spring-bottom 
 and tight-knee pantaloons, a close-fitting cut-away coat, " Pic- 
 cadilly'" collar, and stiff hat, carved as weeping at the tomb of 
 his ancestor, you who have seen only Roman togas and nature's 
 coverings in all the museums of statuary you have ever visited, 
 know not at first whether to admire or laugh. Bayard Taylor 
 once said, as proof of the awkwardness of a gentleman's 
 beaver, that no sculptor had yet been found brave enough to 
 put a "plug " hat upon any of his statues; but he was mis- 
 taken, for here we found the veritable beaver hat in marble. 
 All the fashions of the day, the feminine and the masculine, 
 are embalmed in the stones of this Campo Santo. This sud- 
 den juxtaposition of ancient art, as represented at Florence 
 and Home, and modern art, as found here, might give rise to 
 an essay upon their comparative values, were it not so patent 
 a truth that there is little of natural grace in a modern gar- 
 ment. T would not be understood as depreciating the merits 
 of the art displayed here, for there is much to admire, many 
 admirably-worked family groups, some strikingly realistic 
 death-bed scenes, and a few finely-wrought allegorical figures. 
 Several of the monuments cost $20,000; but all of them are 
 private, that is, are for the glory only of the artist and his 
 wealth}' patron. 
 
 Out over the fat Lombard plain, then in the glory of its 
 summer verdure, and we are at Milan. 
 
 A short railway ride brought us to Arona, whence we went 
 by steamer up Lago Maggoire to Stresa. The afternoon here 
 was spent most delightfully upon the lake and at the Borro- 
 
24 Appendix. 
 
 mean Islands, most important of which is the Isola Bella. 
 Notwithstanding the unfavorable opinion of the guide-books, 
 those of the party who visited the island voted it one of the 
 most romantic and fascinatingly beautiful spots seen upon the 
 trip. We wandered through the stately halls of the palace, 
 its shell and lava grottos, occupying half a score of good-sized 
 rooms, and after enjoying a view of the lake and the moun- 
 tains which seemed pressing it in a gigantic embrace into one 
 long ribbon of green and blue, we passed into the garden, 
 which rises one hundred feet above the lake, in a series of ten 
 terraces, over and under which grow the fruits of almost every 
 clime. Having been planted two centuries ago, the gardens 
 have lost much of the artificial appearance they once had, and 
 their moss-covered stone balustrades and time-beaten statues 
 lend an appearance of age and of nature's work, quite impos- 
 sible in a garden of to-day. 
 
 Time, too, has made large spreading trees of saplings and 
 shrubs. The lake winds here sigh, through a small forest of 
 stately North American pines, bend the wide-spreading boughs 
 of the cork tree, play in the fragrant magnolia groves, and 
 rustle a hundred vines and plants of the tropics. Chinese 
 grasses, the sensitive plant that folds its petals at the tenderest 
 touch, ivies of all kinds, black bamboo, lemons, limes, citrons, 
 oranges and cedars of Lebanon — all are here, and I have 
 scarcely begun to enumerate; and of the artificial beauties — ■ 
 grottos, fountains and walks — I will say nothing. At 11 P. m. 
 we took diligences for the passage of the Simplon. The en- 
 tire trip is a twenty-hours ride, and we preferred to take the 
 least interesting portion of it by night. Breakfasting at Domo 
 d'Ossola shortly after sunrise, we remounted and re-entered the 
 diligence, prepared for views of the grandest Alpine scenery, 
 and we were not disappointed. It was a long climb to the top 
 of the pass, and desiring to make the railroad connection at 
 Brieg, the gentleman of the party often walked over the steep- 
 est part of the road, plucking the Alpine roses and making 
 snow-balls from the remains of the slides that the past winter 
 came down from the mountains and filled the valley so that 
 for many weeks during the summer the roadway ran through 
 snow tunnels. The Hospice, near the highest point of the 
 pass, was reached about 5:30 p: m., and the descent was a most 
 exciting one. The driver of the diligence in which your cor- 
 respondent rode had imbibed freely at the taverns along the 
 road, and a warm discussion arose among the occupants of the 
 
Appendix. 25 
 
 top of the coach as to his condition : the gentlemen maintained 
 that he had only been " bracing up " and would be the steadier 
 for his "tips," while the ladies declared him recklessly drunk. 
 It did seem as though the "bracing up" had been slightly 
 overdone when the horses, smarting under the lash, went leap- 
 ing down the mountain, turning sharp curves where only a 
 few shrubs and granite posts a foot high and six feet apart lay 
 between us and the valley, more than 2,000 feet below. The 
 gentlemen said it was all right, that there wasn't a bit of 
 danger, and then braced their feet and grasped the seat rail- 
 ing with bot.h hands, as a yawning gulf opened in front and in 
 a moment was passed by the turn of the road. At Berisal, 
 half way down the mountain, we changed horses and drivers 
 and descended over the less dangerous portion of the pass at 
 a more moderate pace. The train had departed from Brieg, 
 and we were forced to put up for the night at the various 
 hotels in that place. The hotel proprietors probably understood 
 that we would miss the train, and seemed quite well prepared 
 for our coming. It was whispered that they had something 
 to do with our failure to make the railroad connection. The 
 party which followed us a few days later also found all efforts 
 to bribe the diligence drivers into a more rapid pace in making 
 the ascent of the road, or to detain the train or secure a special 
 railroad conveyance, unavailing. It was the first time in the 
 trip we had failed to be upon time, and fortunate was this fail- 
 ure for us; for the next day, the one upon which we should 
 have made the Tete-Noir pass into the valley of Chamouni, 
 was stormy. But we did not care for the rain during our rail- 
 way ride up the valley of the Rhone to Vernayaz, where we 
 spent the afternoon in resting, and, after the rain had abated, 
 in visiting, near by, the Gorge du Trient and the Pissevache 
 Cascade. Sunday, planned to have been a day of rest at Cha- 
 mouni, was a day just fitted, as far as the weather was con- 
 cerned, for the enjoyment of nature and of the rugged scenery 
 of the Tete-Xoir Pass. Four years ago this pass was only a 
 mule path, but the road has been relocated upon the Martigny 
 side, and curved into a less steep roadway, and widened in the 
 valley of the Eau Noir upon the other side. Light mountain 
 wagons, holding four persons and drawn by three horses, are 
 the only vehicles seen upon the road. 
 
 We could scarcely have been favored with better weather in 
 which to catch our first view of the Mont Blanc chain. It 
 was not clear about the mountain peaks, but one after another 
 
26 Appendix. 
 
 the light clouds were unveiled from the snow-capped heads, 
 the rocky needles and the high glaciers, affording us a suc- 
 cession of most striking pictures. As we rode down the 
 valley past the Mer de Glace, we gazed in admiration at the 
 snow-capped mountains towering up under the clouds, and 
 were satisfied that the beauty of the Vale of Chamouni had 
 not been exaggerated, when lo! the curtain of clouds parted, 
 and at dizzy heights above the snow-capped mountains, and 
 above the clouds, rose slender spires of bare rock, their sides 
 too steep for any lodgment of ice or snow; and as they rested 
 with bases hid in the clouds, they seemed rather let down 
 from above than of the earth beneath. That evening, stand- 
 ing upon the hotel balcony, jutting out over the rushing 
 waters of the Arve, I saw the setting sun bathe in crimson 
 old Mont Blanc and the spires and domes of its long row of 
 giant sentinels. This was, indeed, a glorious sight, but no 
 mountain view can ever equal, for me, that of the Aiguille 
 Verte and the Aiguille du Dru, so effectively unveiled for us 
 as we entered the valley. 
 
 The next morning we watched, for a time, through the hotel 
 telescope, a party of adventurous climbers making the ascent 
 of Mont Blanc. Then we were off for our little climb up to 
 the Montanvert and across the Mer de Glace. Most of the 
 party took mules for the ascent, which returned to meet them 
 at the Chapeau upon the other side. "We should all doubtless 
 have been delighted with the trip if we had not previously 
 read such glowing descriptions of its wonders. We expected 
 a sea of ice, suggesting congealed waves, etc. But when we 
 descended to a great snow-dump, and walked across its ice- 
 iields, incrusted with a half-melted mixture of ice and sleet, 
 as freely as one would walk anywhere with ice or snow under 
 his feet, we wished all the poets and poetical writers of prose 
 — well, retaught the commandment concerning false witness- 
 ing. Of course, the glacier, though a comparatively small 
 one, was interesting, but it would have been more so if we 
 had read less of it; and just here I am led to remark upon the 
 imperfect idea one receives from most books of travel and 
 works descriptive of foreign scenes. The person whose un- 
 imaginative mind sees everything just as he reads of it is a 
 rarity, and to him there are few disappointments and few de- 
 lights in travel. 
 
 Often we spend time and labor to fix in our minds an im- 
 perfect picture of that of which we read, and then in later 
 
Appendix. 27 
 
 years a moment's observation supplants it with a picture in 
 true colors. I begin to think that the best preparation for 
 foreign travel may be found in a good atlas and a set of ency- 
 clopaedias, and, of the two, the atlas is preferable. The geog- 
 raphy of a country is about the only thing not reconstructed 
 or modified in one's mind by travel. 
 
 Another diligence ride and we were at Geneva. A day was 
 spent here in shopping, visiting the few sights of the place, 
 a.nd in attending a concert upon the cathedral organ. We 
 have had special concerts for our party upon four of the most 
 famous organs of Europe — those at Haarlem, Geneva, Frei- 
 burg and Lucerne — and, contrary to expectation, we were best 
 pleased with those at the first two places. The following day 
 was spent in a tour of Lake Leman, including a visit to Chil- 
 lon Castle, and in a pleasant railway ride from Lausanne to 
 Freiburg. 
 
 All the platform steps were occupied with sight-seers, who 
 had deserted their seats within to catch a parting view of 
 Mont Blanc, or to gaze in admiration upon the best lake view 
 Switzerland offers — Lake Geneva, as seen from the railroad, 
 looking down into the deep blue of the lake and across to the 
 French Alps, where the sloping woodlands and deep ravines 
 were hung with a delicate creamy mist, whose tints no painter 
 can transfer to canvas. Freiburg and Berne were hastily in- 
 spected the succeeding day, and then we were off for Inter- 
 laken. A carriage excursion to Lauterbrunnen and Grindel- 
 wald occupied the succeeding day, and Sunday we rested. A 
 night at the Giessbach to witness the illumination of the falls, 
 and then our last Alpine pass, the Brunig, was made, bring- 
 ing us to Lake Lucerne. A night on the Kighi, favored with 
 clear weather in which to witness the sun rise, a tour of the 
 lake, including a visit to Altorf, the scene of William TelFs 
 exploits, and a glance at the sights of Lucerne — Thorwald- 
 sen's lion, the glacier garden, the bridges — and the party were 
 off for Basle, but your correspondent was off for Paris. Some 
 persons object to this method of party travel on account of 
 being obliged to follow a programme; but the greatest free- 
 dom has been accorded to us, and when persons desired to go 
 on ahead of the party, or to follow after to obtain needed 
 rest, they have been furnished their tickets and all possible 
 assistance. 
 
28 Appendix. 
 
 REMINISCENCES OF ROME. 
 
 Air and Water in Rome — Its Antiquities — Its Art — Advice to 
 
 Tourists. 
 
 BY JULIETTE WYMAN, BOSTON. 
 
 Is it safe to visit Rome in mid-summer ? This is a question 
 which has agitated many a tourist, and many a one has halted 
 at Florence, within a few hours ride of the Eternal City, not 
 daring to approach nearer, for fear of the dreaded malaria. 
 
 I can imagine nothing more tantalizing or disappointing 
 than to come so near this " Promised Land," and then to be 
 denied the sight, especially to one who has a taste for art or 
 antiquities. 
 
 Never shall I forget with what fear and troubling I entered 
 Rome, in August, 1879. Before leaving America my mind 
 had been much "exercised" on this point. I felt that I could 
 not go near this Mecea of my dreams without being drawn 
 irresistibly thither. I knew I should risk much for even one 
 view of the Colosseum, the Roman Forum, St. Peters, etc., 
 hut the many warnings I received from friends, as to the fatal 
 eti'ects of the Roman malaria, did make me waver somewhat 
 in my purpose. I was told that it would be very unsafe to 
 sleep in Rome with a window open, even a crack, at night ; 
 that one must never go out after sundown, and that to breathe 
 the air of the Campagna after that time would be sure to give 
 one the fever. 
 
 Notwithstanding all this, behold our party leaving Pisa, at 
 noon of a hot August day, en route for Rome, knowing that 
 we must cross the Campagna, with all its pestilential vapors, 
 at night. 
 
Appendix. 29 
 
 The day, though hot, was not as oppressive as many we 
 have in New England, and the pleasant party of six, in our 
 compartment, passed the afternoon very happily, occasionally 
 refreshing ourselves with the contents of a big paper parcel 
 (which had been put up for us at the hotel at Pisa) and of 
 sundry bottles, some of which contained milk or cold tea, and 
 some the beverage of the country. 
 
 Ice-water is very difficult to obtain on an Italian railway. 
 Boys do come to the car windows, sometimes, crying " Aqua," 
 and you pay for the miserable stuff, which will be sure to 
 make you sick. Few people dare to drink it, except in very 
 small quantities, when thirst is unbearable, and then it is much 
 better to take small pieces of ice in the mouth (if you can get 
 it). I tried this all through the journey, with great success, 
 drinking very little water, and keeping quite free from illness 
 thereby. 
 
 But to return to the subject. We are on the Roman Cam- 
 pagna, and night has shut in. As we are whirled rapidly 
 along, weird shapes loom up before us in the darkness; we can 
 faintly see the wide stretch of desolate country, and know we 
 are approaching Rome. 
 
 Now, there was one tired, sleepy individual in that party 
 who had thought all her life of "going to Rome" as a joy 
 almost too great to be realized, and here she was, with scarcely 
 a "thrill," near its very gates. 
 
 The previous night had been spent most wretchedly at Pisa. 
 What with the heat, the mosquitoes, fleas, and the noise kept 
 up all night by a company of soldiers in the vicinity, I, for one, 
 had not been able to get "forty winks." So, as the darkness 
 crept on, tired nature began to give way, and I was about to tuck 
 myself away in one corner of the .softly-cushioned carriage 
 for a comfortable nap. But no! — this would never do — this 
 would be little short of suicide! Had I not been told that to 
 sleep when crossing the Campagna at night was certain death? 
 — that the guard always .closed the car windows to exclude 
 the malarial vapors, etc.? I roused up sufficiently to give this 
 cheering information to my companions, and was feebly re- 
 signing myself to my cushions again, when they all declared 
 that I should not go to sleep; and for two or three hours there 
 was a trial of strength between them and Morpheus, they 
 gaining the victory. One kind-hearted gentleman cudgeled 
 his brains for all the funny stories he could think of to keep 
 me awake; and so, by the aid of frequent shaking and pineh- 
 
30 Appendix. 
 
 ing from the others, I was saved from that fatal sleep, and not 
 far from midnight the guard called ont "Roma,'' and we were 
 driven to Hotel Costanzi. 
 
 On being shown to our room, Sunshine and I had quite a 
 discussion as to whether it would be safe to leave a window 
 open, and, finally concluding that we should surely die with- 
 out a little fresh air, ventured to open the casement quite a 
 crack. I remember that I went off to sleep that night with 
 ttye firm conviction that I should never leave Rome alive. I 
 had crossed that dreadful Campagna at night, and, in my 
 wearied and exhausted state, should undoubtedly have the 
 Roman fever, and die in a foreign land. 
 
 After a most refreshing sleep, however, untroubled by mos- 
 quitoes or anything else, I awoke next morning and laughed 
 at my fears; nor did I give the subject another thought while 
 I remained. 
 
 We certainly found this the most comfortable spot in Italy. 
 During my stay of eight days in Rome, every night was de- 
 lightfully cool/ There is quite a chill in the air toward morn- 
 ing, so that we found it necessary to have an extra covering 
 to draw up at that time. The chief danger lies in exposure 
 to sudden changes of temperature. It is necessary to go 
 always armed with an extra wrap; else, on entering the great 
 churches, art galleries, etc., one will experience a chill, after 
 the intense heat outside. It is my opinion that, if a person 
 has tolerable health, and knows how to take proper care of 
 himself, as regards diet, exposure to chills, etc., he need have 
 no more fear of contracting malarial fever in Rome than in 
 New York or Philadelphia. 
 
 Well, and how could we "do"' Rome in a week? With 
 such a wealth of ruins, art treasures, churches, etc., such an 
 embarras de richesse spread out for one to choose from, it is, 
 indeed, bewildering. 
 
 Of course, it woul be useless to attempt more than a super- 
 ficial view of the Vatican treasures, or of the other galleries 
 of art, in so short a time ; but Ave certainly did bring away a 
 very lasting impression of such works as Raphael's "Trans- 
 figuration,'' G-uido's "Aurora,"' and "Beatrice Cenci" (whose 
 sad, beseeching eyes you can never see in any copy), as well 
 as some of the wondrous sculptures of the Vatican and Capitol 
 Museums. 
 
 Shall we ever forget those moments spent in the Roman 
 Forum, with our enthusiastic conductor, Mr. Forbes, the 
 
Appendix. 31 
 
 archaeologist, who entered into an account of those historic 
 remains with a fervor only equaled by the rays of the burning 
 Italian sun. The latter finally overcame my interest in 
 archaeological pursuits, and I took refuge under the shadow 
 of the three beautiful columns of the Temple of Castor and 
 Pollux, while I went back in imagination two thousand -years, 
 saw the legions of Julius Csesar marching over the Via Sacra, 
 and heard the speech of Marc Antony over his dead body. 
 
 Mr. Forbes will point out to you the exact site of the rostra 
 from which Cicero spoke (which he learned from observing 
 the sun as described by Pliny); the place where Antony made 
 his celebrated speech; the spot where Virginia was killed, and 
 even the foundation stones of the butcher's shop where her 
 father procured the knife. Here we looked down into an 
 opening of the great drain, the Cloaca Maxima, built nearly 
 •600 years B. Q., and which still drains the city. Truly, those 
 old Romans built for eternity. 
 
 The pavement of the Forum is 24 feet below that of mod- 
 ern Rome, owing to the accumulation of earth and debris, so 
 that it is no easy matter to excavate these extensive ruins, 
 which have been buried for centuries. This great change in 
 the grade of the city is noticeable in many other places. The 
 Pantheon, for instance, was originally approached by a flight 
 of steps, but now you really have to step doitm into the portico. 
 
 Next to the Forum, I suppose the Colosseum is the most 
 attractive ruin in Rome; and here, as in the former place, 
 we found Mr. Forbes, a most thorough and interesting guide. 
 It is my belief that under his guidance one can learn more of 
 Rome in a few days than in many weeks of wandering about 
 with the best guide-book in the world, or with the help of. 
 ordinary guides. Our enthusiasm carried us up to the very 
 top of the Colosseum (and oh! what a hard climb it was in 
 that burning sun); but we felt repaid when we looked down 
 upon the great arena from that height, and imagined that great 
 sea of 100,000 faces eagerly watching the bloody contests going 
 on below. It seemed to me that the Roman plebians had the 
 best seats in the building, for at that height one could better 
 take in the vast extent of the arena, and moreover, be at a safer 
 distance from the wild beasts. No doubt the Vestal Virgins 
 thought differently, if we may judge from Gerome's picture, 
 where they are represented in the first tier of seats, next the 
 i mperor, their murderous thumbs all turned down (because the 
 Emperor turned his down, of course), as a sign that the fallen 
 
32 Appendix. 
 
 gladiator is to be put to death. We did not follow the rash 
 example of "Daisy Miller'" and go to see the Colosseum by 
 moonlight; the reason being that there was no moonlight. All 
 these rains are closely guarded, and you are not allowed to 
 carry away a fragment of stone; but it would take an arm} 7 to 
 prevent a party of Americans from pilfering relics. 
 
 I was much amused, when visiting the ruins of the Palaces 
 of the Cresars, at the way,in which the sentinels dogged our 
 -steps and watched the stragglers. A few of us happened to 
 loiter behind the rest, however, when one sly fellow pretended 
 to have just discovered an antique coin in the earth, which he 
 in a stealthy manner offered to one of us, at a bargain; but 
 that was altogether too — transparent. This only proves how 
 easy it is for any one to purchase relics, of these trusty custo- 
 dians, if he feels disposed to be so de-relic-t. 
 
 These ruins on the Palatine are very extensive and interest- 
 ing. You walk over fragments of mosaic pavement where 
 once great Caesar trod, and are shown one house in which the 
 frescoes are finely preserved, better than any at Pompeii, it is 
 said. Mr. Forbes points out the stall'where Caligula kept his 
 famous horse, that he is said to have created a Roman Consul, 
 and fed with gilded oats in a golden 'manger. As Mr. F. re- 
 marked, you can believe it if you like. At all events, I have 
 no doubt that the horse was more worthy of being a Consul 
 than his master of being an Emperor. 
 
 We visited the vast ruins of the Baths of Caracalla, where 
 1,500 bathers could be accommodated at once. Verily, those 
 old Romans believed in water, and it is a thousand pities that 
 their descendants of the present day should be so unlike them. 
 Some of them evidently never use it, either for drinking or 
 bathing purposes. It is stated that in the imperial epoch the 
 supply of water for Rome was fifty million cubic feet in a day, 
 or ten times the actual supply of London. It must be remem- 
 bered that besides these gigantic baths there were thousands 
 of fountains in the ancient city. 
 
 But enough of ruins. Well — St. Peters; of course we wan- 
 dered down the long nave, stood under its great dome, and 
 tried to realize its vastness, and couldn't. I believe nobody 
 does at first, so that was all right; but I, for one, was not im- 
 pressed as I ought to have been, with its grandeur and beauty. 
 I felt much more a sense of awe when I stood under the 
 majestic dome of the Pantheon, shorn of all its decorations, 
 and looked up through the great circular aperture," b.y which 
 
Appendix. 33 
 
 alone the building is lighted. The rains of nearly two thou- 
 sand years have been allowed to beat through upon the pave- 
 ment of the church, which does not seem to be much the 
 worse for it. This building is the grandest, relic of Rome's 
 ancient glory, and is in a perfect state of preservation, though 
 stripped of its outer coating of marble and despoiled of its 
 interior decorations. Here lie the remains of King Victor 
 Emanuel, and of a greater than he — Raphael, the king of 
 painters. 
 
 If one wishes to see a truly beautiful interior, let him visit 
 the church of St. Paul's, just outside the walls. It is finished 
 with the most costly marbles, from pavement to ceiling ; mala- 
 chite, verd antique, porphyry, lapis lazuli and alabaster are 
 freely used. The great malachite altars, and the exquisite mo- 
 saics and stained glass windows, are unsurpassed. There are 
 no shabby spots here; nothing tawdry to mar the beauty, 
 which cannot be said of some of the grandest cathedrals of 
 Italy. 
 
 A visit to Rome would not be complete without a sight of 
 the Catacombs ; so we rode out on the Appian Way to the 
 Catacombs of St. Calixtus, passing the tomb of the Scipios 
 and under the Arch of Drusus. It was interesting indeed to 
 feel sure that St. Paul passed under this arch and that these 
 very same stones were pressed by his feet, when on his way to 
 Rome to stand before Caesar. They say that these Catacombs 
 contain fifty miles of underground passages. I should not 
 care to be the one to verify it. It was good to see the light of 
 day — even of the scorching Italian sun, after that dark, damp 
 and dismal abode of death. 
 
 We visited many other places of historic interest, among 
 them the Tarpeian Rock and the house of Rienzi ; and were 
 taken down to see the foundations of the bridge which was 
 kept so valiantly by Horatius, "in the brave days of old." 
 Mow vividly came to mind, then, the words of Macaulay, 
 which every school boy knows: 
 
 "Hew down the bridge, sir Consul, 
 Willi all the speed ye may; 
 I, with two more to help me, 
 Will hold the foe in play." 
 
 Then, after the bridge had fallen, and "alone stood brave 
 Horatius," his appeal before he plunges into the river: 
 
34 Appendix. 
 
 "O Tiber! Father Tiber ! 
 To whom the Romans pray, 
 A Roman's life, a Roman's arms, 
 Take thou in charge this day/' 
 
 One of my pleasantest mornings in Rome was spent in 
 driving about the city with two or three friends; upon the 
 Pincio, where you have a fine view of the city; then to the 
 Rospigliosi Palace (it would be convenient to call it the Roast- 
 pig, but they do not pronounce the g),to see the lovely Aurora, 
 then to the Corso shopping. We were looking at Hawthorne's 
 ''Marble Faun,'' beautifully illustrated, when we inquired if 
 there was really such a place as "Hilda's Tower," described 
 there, and on being directed to it, immediately drove thither, 
 and sure enough! there was the place just as pictured in the 
 book — the shrine to the Virgin, and all! Evidently there is 
 no one to trim the lamp now, for it was not burning, and we 
 looked around in vain for the gentle Hilda's white doves. 
 We went away charmed with our discovery, and felt that Haw- 
 thorne's fascinating story would have a new interest,- after 
 seeing Hilda's Tower and the Faun of Praxi tiles. 
 
 One can hardly help having "sunny memories" of Rome, 
 if he visits it in summer, and it is very unwise for any one to 
 expose himself to the intense heat in the middle of the day. 
 It was our custom to go out from 9 till 12, then lunch and 
 siesta, and sight-seeing again from 3 till 6. Between 12 and 3 
 is the hottest part of the day, and the Romans suspend all 
 business during that time. It is best to avoid beinsr out at 
 noon, especially if walking. The less walking one does here 
 the better. Carriage hire is very cheap, as, indeed, we found 
 it almost everywhere, and it does not pay to exhaust one's 
 strength with walking in this hot climate. I tried it one day, 
 to my sorrow. I had been driving about with some friends, 
 and, when nearly noon, they left me at a shop where I wished 
 to purchase some of those fine photographs which you can 
 obtain here at half what they cost in America. It was not far 
 from the hotel, and I knew I could find the way. Well, I 
 walked very confidently for a couple of blocks, then I got 
 confused, and went into several shops to inquire. By the aid 
 of a little bad French, and repeating "Albergo Costanzi" 
 often, I succeeded in finding the way; but bitterly I repented 
 of my folly^ especially when I had to cross that great piazza 
 where the Triton Fountain is(theBarberini, I think), exposed 
 
Appendix. 35 
 
 to the full glare of the sun; and when, at last, I dropped upon 
 a chair in the cool Costanzi parlors, it seemed like Paradise 
 after — Purgatory. 
 
 One word I must say about the "Albergo Costanzi," for I 
 do not believe there can be found on the continent of Europe 
 a hotel that excels it for comfort, good cuisine, good attend- 
 ance, etc. It is situated on the Quirinal, the healthiest loca- 
 tion in Rome, on the site of Sallust's Baths. The water 
 which we drank there came through the same source which 
 supplied the Romans of Sallust's time — the Marcian Aque- 
 duct, constructed 146 B. C, which brings water from the 
 Sabine Mountains, 50 miles away ; and there is no better water 
 in all Europe. It was delightful to notice at the Costanzi an 
 absence of that obsequiousness in the servants to which we 
 had become so accustomed. They did not appear as if they 
 "expected something" every time they performed the slight- 
 est service. One lady who was quite ill there a number of 
 days received the tenderest care possible, and, wonderful to 
 relate, had hard work to make the attendant accept any 
 remuneration! When she left, the gentlemanly "portier " 
 ordered them to put up a lunch for her of the choicest tid-bits 
 that the house afforded! 
 
 There is one thing that will add much to one's comfort and 
 amusement in these foreign hotels, shops, etc., and that is a 
 knowledge of French. By all means know something of the 
 language before starting on a European trip. Even a few 
 words will help one amazingly; and even when thrown to- 
 gether at random, contrary to all the rules of "Fasquelle," the 
 meaning is generally understood. All through Switzerland 
 and Italy French is spoken to some extent by nearly every- 
 body. Of course, in the hotels there are some English-speak- 
 ing servants, and in the large stores a few English clerks can 
 be found; so that one can get along without any foreign 
 tongue, especially when traveling, as we did, with a conductor 
 who can speak a dozen languages. Still I would say, learn just 
 as much French as possible before starting for Europe, and I 
 promise you it will add greatly to your pleasure. Never mind 
 how many mistakes you make. Those polite Frenchmen or 
 Italians never laugh at us, as we should at them, if they mur- 
 dered the king's English before us. Will Sunshine and I ever 
 forget how we -parlez- oous-ed for an hour or more at a shop in 
 Paris, making most egregious mistakes? N'importe! We 
 made ourselves understood, and it was great fan! 
 
86 Appendix. 
 
 But, pardonnez-moi — I was talking about Rome, and how I 
 have been roaming. 
 
 And now the time has come (no doubt you think it none 
 too soon) to say good-bye to Rome. 
 
 And did I feel satisfied with a week of it ? Of course not ; 
 neither should I with a month. Yet I am very thankful for 
 that week. "Half a loaf is better than no bread"; and when 
 it is not plain bread, but a rich cake, filled with such rare 
 plums as this city of the Caesars, who would not be grateful 
 for & slice? I said farewell with a feeling of sadness, and ps 
 we steamed out across the Campagna I stretched my head out 
 of the car windows many times, vainly trying to catch a last 
 glimpse of the dome of St. Peter's. At last, -when we were 
 many miles away, and I had given up all hope of seeing it, I 
 glanced out once more, and beheld it towering grandly over 
 the city, though nothing else was distinguishable. 
 
 Then I was impressed with its grandeur; much more so than 
 when examining its fine marbles and mosaics, or attending 
 vespers under its majestic dome. I gazed upon it until it was 
 lost in the dim distance, feeling a great sense of thankfulness 
 that this dream of my life had been realized. 
 
 Addio! dear, delightful, dirty Rome, addio! 
 
Appendix. * 37 
 
 ROME. 
 
 " The Old" in Rome — Quirinal Palace — Villa Borghese — Pincian 
 Hill — Vesper Service in St. Peter's — Bambino — Street Scenes. 
 
 BY MRS. E. C. MARSH, HAYDENVILLE, MASS. 
 
 With the exception of the lands of the Bible, it seems to 
 me that nowhere in the world is the idea of "the Old" so im- 
 pressive and pervading as at Rome. The Fornm and the 
 Colosseum, the immense ruins of the Baths of Caracalla, and 
 the Palaces of the Caesars, the triumphal arches, the old walls, 
 the Catacombs — all these are the remnants of a people and a 
 civilization so utterly vanished and forgotten that we find it 
 difficult to realize that they ever existed. Many of our party, 
 on comparing notes, found the impression had been general 
 that the Forum was one building instead of seven, as we found 
 on visiting it. Here we stood on the original pavement, where, 
 over the Via Sacra, rolled the chariot wheels of the victorious 
 emperors, returning from their bloody campaigns, loaded with 
 spoil, and bringing trains of slaves. Here stood the Basilica 
 Julia, erected by Julius Caesar, and named for his favorite 
 daughter; on the other side the Basilica Portia — the Curia 
 Hostilia, where the Senate used to meet — the Comitium, or 
 open space in the Forum, where, as Livy tells us, stood the 
 Rostra or platform, from whence Cicero and other orators 
 addressed the people. We tried to fancy Marc Antony deliv- 
 ering his celebrated oration on the death of Csesar from this 
 same Rostra. By the way, we found that the word rostrum, 
 as we use it, is incorrect. The name is derived from the 
 brazen beaks of captive vessels taken by the Romans, which 
 
38 Appendix. 
 
 were fixed upon the square stone platform erected upon the 
 Comitium. These were the Rostra, used always in the plural 
 number. We found some delicate maiden hair fern growing: 
 upon the rough sides of this interesting structure, and, of 
 course, captured some, to press in our guide-books. The spot 
 where Virginia was killed by her father is shown in the 
 Forum, and near by is the large oblong opening of the Cloaca 
 Maxima, or great drain of Rome, built of large blocks of tufa, 
 by Tarquinius Superbus, 530 years B. C. A large stream of 
 water still rushes along, as it did two thousand years ago. The 
 lone column of Phocas, standing in front of the arch of Sep- 
 tiniius Severus, is an impressive object. Since Italy has par- 
 tially thrown off the Papal yoke, the antiquities are taken 
 much better care of, and the excavations of the Forum and 
 the other ruins, during the last ten years, have brought to 
 light many interesting relics. The Via Sacra, or ancient road- 
 way, ran from the Colosseum the whole length of the Forum, 
 up to the Capitol. We passed over this road from the Forum 
 to the Colosseum, under the arch of Titus, glancing, as we 
 went through, at the sculptures of the table of shevv-bread and 
 the golden candlestick. The great Flavian Amphitheater, in 
 ton n, as Mark Twain quite irreverently terms it, "a looped 
 and windowed bandbox with a side bitten out," is, on the 
 whole, the most impressive ruin of Rome. In the Forum, 
 your attention is divided among many different objects, but 
 the Colosseum is one grand, solemn thing — a vast monument 
 of age and lost glory. It made our hearts thrill to stand 
 under the grand arches and look into the arena where man's 
 strength and skill had been shown in mortal combat, and 
 where so many Christian's had bravely met their fate. Here 
 was the Emperor's seat, marked by two great pillars of traver- 
 tine. Most of us, with many weary teps, climbed to the top 
 of the wall, and felt richly repaid for the toil, in viewing the 
 grand panorama of Rome, spread out beneath. Recent ex- 
 cavations have discovered much of the machinery of the 
 arena-grooves in the stone-work underneath, showing how the 
 movable stage was raised and lowered. The last performance 
 in the Colosseum was a bull-fight, held at the expense of the 
 Roman nobles, in 1332. 
 
 The vast ruins of the Palaces of the Csesara cover the Pala- 
 tine Hill, and visiting them, as we did, under the guidance of 
 Mi-. Russell Forbes, the arehaiologist and explorer, we gained 
 a great deal of information, and were able, in some degree, 
 
Appendix. 39 
 
 to see order and plan in what, without his explanations, 
 would have seemed a chaos of wrecks and rubbish. Here 
 were once the Palaces of Augustus, Tiberius, Caligula, Domi- 
 tian, and Nero's Golden House, besides the House of Germani- 
 cus, and various temples and basilicas. Mosaic pavements, 
 stucco roofs, and frescoed walls remain, in a fragmentary state, 
 but showing beautiful workmanship and brilliant coloring. It 
 was an interesting fact, mentioned in connection with the 
 painted walls of the House of Germanicus, that they were un- 
 covered by the workmen of Napoleon Third, on the very day 
 of the battle of Sedan. The site of the Basilica Jarvis is 
 shown, where Paul is supposed to have stood before Nero. A 
 beautiful piece of the tribune rail still stands. 
 
 On the southeast corner of the Palatine Hill are the remains 
 of Roma Quadrata and the House of Romulus, with the oldest 
 stone arches in the world, built 730 B. C. The marks of the 
 mason's chisel are still shown on some of the stones. We 
 were followed in our rambles over the ruins by two officials, 
 who were keeping guard over the stones and rubbish to pro- 
 tect them from the ravages of relic-hunters. One of them, 
 however, politely presented some of the ladies with sprigs 
 from a precious old ilex tree, some hundred years old, so we 
 were not left without a token of our visit to the Palaces of the 
 Caesars. 
 
 After seeing Old Rome all day, we had a little of New Rome 
 in the evening, driving through the Corso, which was very 
 brilliant with numerous gay shops, and throngs of moving 
 people. We lingered in the Piazza Colonna, where, by the 
 column of Marcus Aurelius, a line band plays every evening. 
 
 The part of modern Rome that pleased us most was the 
 Quirinal Palace, the residence of the King and Queen of Italy. 
 As they were just at this time absent from home, visitors were 
 admitted. It was the first Palace we had seen that looked 
 elegant and comfortable to live in. The floors were richly 
 carpeted and furnished in modern style — grand drawing-room, 
 with yellow satin hangings and furniture, throne-room in 
 crimson brocade, and small parlor and Queen's boudoir in 
 blue. In this room we saw a full-length portrait of Mar- 
 guerita in blue satin and velvet, with necklace of pearls, and 
 a marble bust of Humbert. The state dining-saloon, magnifi- 
 cently decorated and appointed, had immense chandeliers of 
 Venetian glass, with a thousand glittering pendants. A 
 smaller room was shown us, where the Royal family did their 
 
40 Appendix. 
 
 eating, as the guide said, "tous les jours.*' The garden of the 
 palace contains statuary, and a curious labyrinth of ever- 
 greens. 
 
 One of our finest views of Rome was from the height on 
 which stands* the church of St. Peter in Montouio, erected 
 near the spot where St. Peter suffered crucifixion. From the 
 level space in front of the church, the eye takes in a most 
 beautiful panorama — the yellow Tiber, curving through the 
 midst of the city, and losing itself on the distant reaches of the 
 Campagna; the ruins of temples, baths, aqueducts, surrounded 
 and hemmed in by buildings of modern date; the domes 
 of Sf. Peter, the Pantheon, and other churches; the towers of 
 St. John Lateran, and the Egyptian obelisk near it; far to the 
 southeast, toward Naples, the magnificent church of St. Paul, 
 outside the city gates ; directly in front, as you look off the 
 terrace, beyond the baths of Caracalla and the tomb of Caius 
 Cestus, on the Appian way, rise, in the blue distance, the 
 Sabine Hills and the Albanian Hills, with Frascati, Albano, 
 and other beautiful villages and villas, nestled among foliage- 
 covered slopes. 
 
 Driving in Rome is most delightful, and also very cheap. 
 One franc for a course (any point within the gates); for two or 
 three persons, two francs an hour. The pavements are very 
 smooth, and are kept very clean. Men are sweeping nearly 
 all the time, and all refuse is cpiickly removed. The drivers 
 go fast, and each carries a card of regulations and fixed prices. 
 One of our finest drives in Rome was forth from the Porto del 
 Popolo, through the park and gardens of the Villa Borghese. 
 By the liberality of the owner, the grounds are free to all, and 
 greatly is the privilege appreciated and improved by all classes. 
 The park is of great extent, penetrated by fine roads and 
 adorned with fountains, statuary, and rare trees and shrubs. 
 Returning, we took a winding road near the gate, which 
 brought us to the Pincian Hill, the noted promenade of the 
 Romans. Another splendid view of Rome' is obtained from 
 the terrace, with the world's Cathedral for the central point. 
 Its vast dome is best seen at a distance, and this view of it 
 was our best in Rome. We looked our last upon its interior 
 at a vesper service, which we were fortunate enough to find 
 just commencing, as, pushing aside the thick leather curtain, 
 we entered the stately nave. A long procession of priests and 
 canons and altar boys were passing from one of the side 
 chapels into the enclosure back of the high altar. Some of 
 
Appendix. 41 
 
 them were ornamented with lace capes and bibs, having a 
 special use and signification no doubt, but looking very com- 
 ical upon those rotund, red-faced men. An organ, which 
 looked exceedingly small, so near the great baldichino, with 
 its twisted bronze pillars 90 feet high, was placed within the 
 enclosure, and upon a platform built up in front of it, stood 
 the choir of twelve or fourteen men and boys. The priests 
 led in concert, and the singers responded at very frequent in- 
 tervals. In fact, the service was mostly singing, and very fine 
 singing, too. Solos were sung in the soprano, alto and tenor 
 parts, by voices most beautifully clear, sweet and thrilling. 
 There was such an echo, that the chorus singing produced a 
 confused blending, rather trying to the ear. We gazed regret- 
 fully back as we passed under the mighty dome, thinking our 
 eyes were looking their last at the scene. 
 
 I have not time to say anything of the Capitoline Museum 
 and its wonders. We spent a morning there, a few of us, in 
 a most enjoyable manner, wandering about in quiet, missing 
 agreeably the accustomed crowd and rush of the collective 4th 
 section, and having no guide but the accurate and exhaustive 
 Baedeker. On our way home to lunch we ascended the inter- 
 minable stairs to the church of Ara Coeli, to see that wonder- 
 ful Bambino we had heard so much about. A solemn-looking, 
 brown-robed priest unlocked a cupboard for us and produced 
 the image, which is about the size of a good large doll. It is 
 ugly to look at, but is covered with sparkling jewels, from 
 head to foot — amethysts, emeralds, rubies and diamonds. It 
 has a little carriage and horses of its own, is taken to the bed- 
 sides of sick people to cure them, and has special worship and 
 offerings from Roman children at Christmas time. The energy 
 and muscular strength of a few still held out to mount another 
 flight of steps, at the other side of the square, and find the 
 remains of the Tarpeian Rock. A woman with dark, beauti- 
 ful eyes, but with a sad and weary look, opened a door from 
 the street into a garden, and we were soon standing on the 
 famous spot, looking off upon the Forum and the Palaces of 
 the Cœsars. 
 
 The morning we were to leave Rome, as early as six o'clock, 
 some of us went to the Fountain of Trevi, drank of the water, 
 and threw in our small coin, which of course secures our 
 return to Rome at some future time, according to the old tra- 
 dition. On our way back to the hotel we stopped and bought 
 fruit for our long railway trip to Florence, of a bright-eyed 
 
42 Appendix. 
 
 young Roman, who had artistically disposed his tempting dis- 
 play of grapes, pears, peaches and apricots for sale. 
 
 Beauty and art are everywhere in Italy. Many a lovely 
 family group did we see in the doorways, as we rode through 
 the narrow streets, and dark-eyed, beautiful cherubs — beauti- 
 ful enough, in spite of rags and dirt, to be the models for some 
 of the Holy Families of Andrea del Sarto and Raphael. Even 
 the horse troughs in Rome are often sculptured in bas-reliets. 
 Perhaps they are the old sarcophagi, once consecrated to nobler 
 uses. 
 
 At 10J o'clock of an intensely hot morning, we left the 
 railway station of Rome. Glorious old Roma! full of poetry 
 and history and classic memories! I left it with sad and glad 
 feelings. Sad — thinking I should never see it again; glad — 
 that I had been permitted to see it at all. May it be soon and 
 wholly redeemed from superstition. Viva JW Italia! Viva 
 Uino'aiu 11 
 
Appendix. 43 
 
 A VISIT TO THE POPE. 
 
 BY A. F. LEWIS, FRYEBURG, ME. 
 
 Early in our sojourn in Rome it occurred to many of us 
 that we ought to pay our respects to His Holiness the Pope. 
 There is a superfluity of red tape and court etiquette to be 
 observed before we can enter his august presence. Signor 
 Barattoni drew up a petition to the Holy Father to grant the 
 party an audience. This petition was signed. by the whole 
 party, and, translated into English, it would read: 
 
 Holy Father: We, the undersigned, Americans of the 
 United States, have come at this season to visit for the first 
 time the historical city of Rome ; and, although we cannot 
 call ourselves children of Your Holiness, we cherish the hope 
 that in the goodness of your magnanimous heart you will 
 grant us the high honor to allow us to present to you our re- 
 spects before our forced departure, which will take place on 
 the evening of Thursday next. Hoping that such privilege 
 will be granted, we subscribe ourselves of Your Holiness the 
 most humble petitioners. 
 
 On Monday the conductor had the petition forwarded di- 
 rectly to the Pope, through influential friends of his, and 
 Monday evening the welcome intelligence was received that 
 His Holiness would grant us an audience on Tuesday at 12:30 
 p. m. Then we were informed as to costumes and court cus- 
 toms. The ladies were to wear black dresses and white kids, 
 with black veils on their heads; the gentlemen, full-dress 
 suits, white ties and kids — gloves to be taken oft' before our 
 presentation to the Pope. Those who were not supplied with 
 •court suits must buy them or hire them (as many did) at a few 
 •dollars expense. 
 
44 Appendix. 
 
 Our guide had forgotten to inform us of another little bit 
 of the papal court etiquette, till but a short time before the 
 hour named for the reception, viz., that we must kneel to the 
 Pope when he entered the room, and kneel in turn and kiss 
 his hand when he came to us individually and offered it. This 
 announcement fell like a bomb-shell in the party; for while 
 there was great anxiety, or curiosity, to see the great head of 
 the Romish Church, there was a lively discussion, especially 
 among the numerous clergymen of the party, about the pro- 
 priety and principle of getting down on their knees to the 
 Pope of Rome. In vain did our conductor assure them it was 
 but a form of the court, and of no significance in regard to our 
 particular views of theology and religion. "How can we," 
 said they, "stand up before our people at home, after having 
 bowed the knee to this modern Baal?" And so, quite a num- 
 ber, after having hired their court costume, at considerable 
 expense, declined, for consistency and conscience sake, to use 
 it for a papal visit. We could not look upon it as did some 
 of our good friends; nevertheless, we respected their con- 
 science. Our idea was, when we go to court, be it Roman or 
 any other, we ought to conform to the rules of that court; or, 
 in other words, " when you are with the Romans do as the 
 Romans do" — so far as custom and court etiquette are concerned. 
 
 They tell a story, that once, when a number of persons were 
 given an audience by Pius IX., some failed to kneel when he 
 entered the room, but remained standing. Observing this, 
 the Pope remarked, ironically, "Ah, I see we have a new ad- 
 dition to the statues of the Vatican Museum." 
 
 Therefore, the sensible advice was given that all those who 
 were not prepared to conform to the rules of etiquette of the 
 court of the Vatican should refrain from going; and when 
 those determined to go entered the carriages at the hotel door, 
 it was found that they numbered just fifty, including Signor 
 Barattoni. We drove down the Via Condotti, over the ancient 
 bridge of St. Angelo, and on through the Piazza in front of 
 St. Peter's, around the church, into an inner court of the 
 Vatican. Alighting from our carriages, we entered the im- 
 mense building, and were conducted up so many flights of 
 marble stairs that it makes our back ache even to remember 
 them. At last we entered a long, narrow hall, richly frescoed 
 and adorned, where fifty red chairs were ranged on either 
 side, with a sort of raised dais on one end, on which was a 
 bust of some dead Pope upon a costly pedestal, with a sort of 
 
Appendix. 45 
 
 throne-like chair in front of it. Here we sat down to wait, 
 with fast-beating hearts, the entrance of the great head of the 
 Catholic Church, who we expected would shortly honor us 
 with his presence. It was just 12:20 when we arrived — ten 
 minutes ahead of the appointed time. We waited ten min- 
 utes, and we waited fifty-five other minutes, and still no Pope 
 came. To be sure, there was a finely-carved ceiling in blue 
 and gold, and there were large pictures on the walls to look 
 at, and the handsome throne-chair; but we wanted to see the 
 Pope. At 1:25 we were requested to leave the Throne-Room, 
 and, passing on through two others, were ushered into a 
 square apartment called the Room of the Tapestries, from the 
 elegant specimens of this work hung upon the walls on three 
 sides. Fifteen minutes later the Holy Father appeared. We 
 all knelt, but he motioned us to rise. If we had felt any 
 trepidation before, we were put entirely at our ease the mo- 
 ment we saw the pleasant face of Leo XIII., and felt the 
 kindly influence of his presence. How did the Pope look? 
 Well, he is a benign old man, with a fair, serene, gentle face, 
 and certainly not unpleasing. He had on a white silk skull- 
 cap, and was dressed like a venerable baby, all in white. He 
 wore a long robe, which came down to his feet, made of the 
 softest and most beautiful white woolen stuff which you can 
 imagine. There was a short cape about his shoulders, 
 trimmed with white silk, and a sash of white watered silk 
 ribbon confining the robe at the waist, and white kid slippers. 
 Around his neck was a gold chain, attached to which was a' 
 cross, and his ring, on this occasion, was a cameo, bearing the 
 image of the Virgin. He appeared quite pleased to see so 
 many Americans in one party, and, commencing at the left of 
 our semi-circle, he offered his hand to each one and passed 
 slowly around the room, stopping with every three or four to 
 talk a moment or two, Signor Barattoni acting as interpreter, 
 the conversation between them being in Italian. He spent 
 some twenty minutes with us, and, when about to leave the 
 room, stopped near the door and expressed good wishes for 
 the party through the remainder of the tour, and throughout 
 their lives; and said he hoped they would remember with 
 pleasure Italy, Rome, and their visit to the Vatican. Then, 
 while we knelt, he blessed us and our families, and our audi- 
 ence was at an end. 
 
46 Appendix. 
 
 VESUVIUS AND POMPEII. 
 
 Night Ride to Vesuvius— Guides and Ponies — Climbing to the 
 Summit — Pompeii — The Exhumed City and What we Saw 
 There — Licentiousness of these Ancients — Rude Mills, Ovens, 
 Bread, etc. 
 
 BY B. H. POLK, VICKSBURG, MISS. 
 
 A little after midnight I take a seat with the driver of one 
 of the twelve carriages that are to convey the greater number 
 of our part} 7 to the hermitage, about half way, in elevation, 
 up Vesuvius. These carriages were all with folding tops, 
 holding five persons, one with the driver and four inside, and 
 drawn by three horses abreast, the third one being only for 
 this drive and hitched by a movable arrangement alongside 
 the near horse. This drive lasted three hours and a half, being 
 about equally divided between the journey through the long 
 city of Naples and the ascent of the mountain. The ascent 
 begins near the eastern terminus of the city and before you 
 pass out of it. The moon was a little past the full, and the 
 sky was unbroken even by a cloud as big as }'Our hand. 
 
 About a half a mile or more before leaving the city we came 
 to the headquarters for guides and ponies, and here experi- 
 enced a siege I had never seen before or ever want to see again. 
 It beggars description. Almost in a twinkling the streets 
 swarmed with the most ill-favored and piratical looking scoun- 
 drels, some with donkeys, some with staffs, some with nothing 
 but their bad faces, and all noisily crowding about the car- 
 riages seeking to be employed. They led their animals up to 
 the carriage doors, piled their walking sticks into the vehicles, 
 held out their straps for us to touch that they might then claim 
 
Appendix. 47 
 
 that we had engaged their services, and were persistent to a 
 degree that was both laughable and annoying. Our conductor 
 brought partial order out of the chaos by ascertaining who 
 wanted animals and who wanted chairs in which to be carried 
 up, and then engaged these; but forty others took after us, and 
 the whole swarm of them went whooping and yelling up the 
 road w r ith us, some walking, some riding, while others held to 
 the tails of the animals and pounded them with sticks to in- 
 crease their speed. To say that they kicked up a dust that 
 nearly suffocated us expresses it mildly. 
 
 The day was fairly dawning when we reached the hermitage. 
 Here the carriages stop for the present, but the Government 
 is at work on a road that will enable vehicles to reach the base 
 of the cone. About thirty of us in all concluded to under- 
 take the ascent. And here again Bedlam broke loose and 
 continued until the riders were mounted, some ladies in chairs, 
 and the doleful looking caravan was under way. If I did Vesu- 
 vius I wanted to do it myself, so I was one of a very few who 
 started out on foot, and continued unassisted till I stood upon 
 the summit looking down into the bowl-like conformation, 
 and the two unequal peaks therein sending up their fire and 
 smoke, and now and then shooting out a bushel or so of red 
 hot lava. It was a very exhaustive trip of two hours duration, 
 and very many of the dirty vagabonds who had stuck to us 
 were rewarded by being employed to pull and push at mem- 
 bers of our party who had lost their wind and their spirits at 
 the same time. These fellows know pretty well the capacity 
 of the average American, and his readiness to call for assist- 
 ance in trying times, even if it is expensive, and when one of 
 them swears up and down at the outfitting station that he will 
 foot it up Vesuvius or die in the attempt, they do not become 
 discouraged, but follow on clear up to the crater, rarely ever 
 reaching it without being sought to lend a helping hand, either 
 to push or pull some one, to carry his surplus garments, or, 
 perchance, make a perambulating wineshop of himself by 
 carrying the numerous bottles that have been brought along 
 for the stomach's sake. 
 
 "Well, every one who undertook the trip made it; went 
 down into the bowl, crossed the fissures around its edge that 
 were sending out their heat and sulphurous smoke, walked 
 over the fields of lava that had been made only eight days ago, 
 and was still hot, climbed the main crater and perspired within 
 the very heat of its gentle vomitings, lit our cigars and burned 
 
48 Appendix. 
 
 the corners of letters at the fissures, and dug molten lava 
 from the sides of the baby crater to mould around our copper 
 pieces, or to let cool for specimens to bring home. We did 
 all these v things and got our lungs full of vile air, and came 
 down by a short and steep cut on the jump — some of us 
 tumbling heels over head and nearly burying ourselves in the 
 fine lava — and at last reaching our hotels near noon, so nearly 
 worn out as to feel it were an accident if our bodies hung 
 together. And yet in less than two hours we started for 
 Pompeii, taking carriages to the depot, a long way from our 
 hotel, and then the cars for the exhumed city. 
 
 What shall I say of Pompeii? I am sure I do not know. I 
 can state with all my reading on the subject I found the houses 
 which have been uncovered in a much better state of preserva- 
 tion than I had expected, and was enabled to form a clearer 
 idea of the habits of its former inhabitants than I supposed 
 would be possible. There are no evidences that any of these 
 people lived luxuriantly, but on the contrary their rooms were 
 small, poorly lighted, worse ventilated, and devoid of comfort. 
 Some writers speak of them as having lived in splendor. I 
 cannot believe it from the well preserved things to be seen 
 there. They had some bronze ornaments and marble statuary, 
 but they had poor bread. Their walls were frescoed, but the 
 rooms were small and without windows. Their houses were 
 one story high, jammed together, with very narrow streets, 
 with certainly no front yards and no indications of back ones. 
 What they luxuriated in cannot be seen among the relics left 
 to this generation. It is true they had their public baths, and 
 perhaps their private ones, and it is not a wide stretch to 
 imagine they needed them. 
 
 It" is estimated that about one-third of the city has been un- 
 covered, and yet only one small window of glass, about sixteen 
 inches in length and three in width, has, so far, been discov- 
 ered. The Government has a force at work excavating right 
 along towards the mountain, and we were taken to that point 
 and saw the buildings being brought to light after a burial of 
 just eighteen hundred years. It was almost startling to see 
 how clear and bright they looked after this long slumber under 
 ground. Those old fellows had fast colors in those days, for 
 many of the fresco paintings on the walls look almost as 
 bright as if put on but a week ago, and after being exposed to 
 the hot sun of Italy for months, and even years, retain their 
 color in a remarkable degree. We had seen an evidence of 
 
Appendix. 49 
 
 this in Rome, in the house of Germanicus, on the Palatine 
 Hill, adjoining the Palace of the Cresars, which has recently 
 been exhumed after being buried twelve hundred years, the 
 paintings upon whose walls were quite good and strikingly 
 fresh and clear. And there was another thing those ancients 
 understood, and that was the art of making mortar that would 
 stand for ages as firm and strong as when first dried from the 
 trowel of the mason. 
 
 Still, having seen the homes of these people, their clumsy 
 manner of doing things, and the many witnesses of their licen- 
 tious lives, I can't admire them even though they are credited 
 with intelligence and were the possessors of some arts that 
 have been lost to us. Why, in Pompeii, there are houses con- 
 taining so many evidences of vulgarity that even these Italians 
 of the present day, who are by no means fastidious on such 
 subjects, deem it necessary to keep closed and shut out from 
 the view of ladies; and in the museum at Naples there is a 
 room filled with such questionable works of art, that have been 
 found during excavations of this renowned city of the past, no 
 female is ever permitted to enter its doors. I speak of this 
 thing because it is not often alluded to by writers, and because 
 it is the most striking feature of the history of Pompeii handed 
 down by art in paintings and bronze and sculpture, so far un- 
 earthed. Houses, the character of which can barely be hinted 
 at in print, were designated by the most shameful symbols, 
 prominent from the street, and in enduring marble that marks 
 the tread of centuries — symbols that stand as monuments to 
 disgust a civilized people. I presume writers seldom mention 
 these things because it would detract from the poetry of the 
 place; but the things I speak of stand out boldly in Pompeii, 
 and one must pass through its streets, deserted now by aught 
 else save lizzards, with closed eyes, if he does not see them. 
 As we stood there, with Vesuvius frowning down upon us from 
 the distance, it was an easy matter to entertain the conviction 
 that Pompeii existed long enough, and that the Almighty 
 smote it none too soon. 
 
 We were shown the houses of Glaucus — they call him the 
 "Tragic Poet" — of Sallust, of Diomede, and other prominent 
 characters in Bulwer s novels, but there was no monument to 
 that loving blind girl, who rescued lone and Glaucus and the 
 miserable priest from the clutches of the wily Arbaces, and at 
 last led Glaucus and lone through the horrors of a ghastly 
 day to the seashore. I thought of" that faithful little woman 
 
50 Appendix. 
 
 often in my ramble through Pompeii, and when I stood in 
 Grlaucus' house, where the flowers must have grown and blos- 
 somed under her gentle care, I forgot that she was an ideal 
 character, and imagined where she stood and how she looked 
 as she prepared the bouquet for the kindly master whom she 
 loved so well. 
 
 We saw the rude, clumsy mills with which the Pompeiians 
 ground their grain, standing just as they stood eighteen hun- 
 dred years ago; we looked into the oven which baked then- 
 bread, and from which eighty loaves were taken cooked too 
 brown for the use of those who found them so long after 
 baking; we saw their amphitheater — a child as compared with 
 the one at Verona, and a mere baby by the side of the full 
 grown one at Rome. We saw their public and private baths, 
 their forums and temples of justice, their churches, and the 
 immense well, the caving in of which opened a hole to light 
 above, and led to the discovery of the buried city. We walked 
 over the tiled floors that are as smooth and bright as though 
 cemented yesterday, and we tried to steal mementoes of the 
 place, but the Italian guards were so thick and watched us so 
 closely we could only carry away a few yards of the floor from 
 the house of Sallust. We tried to get away with one of the 
 bodies which lie in state in the Museum, and which gave forth 
 no ordor after so long a burial, but it was too heavy for us. 
 So we passed out the city under the archway that formerly led 
 to the sea, now far awaj-, as a grateful breeze came to us 
 across the lovely expanse of water, and took the cars for 
 Naples. 
 
Appendix. 51 
 
 THE RHINE. 
 
 The Seven Mountains — Rohmidseck and the Convent of Nonnen- 
 wertli — The Legends of the Picturesque River — Castles and 
 Vineyards — Coblenz and Ehrenbreitstein — " Fair Bingen" and 
 Its Beautiful ' Surroundings. 
 
 I5Y A TOURIST. 
 
 We went on board the express steamer Kaiser Wilhelm, just 
 above the bridge of boats at Cologne, for our da3^'s journey up 
 the river Rhine. The day was made for such a trip as this, 
 and we enjoyed every moment it gave us upon the romantic 
 and historic stream, which for ages has been the great high- 
 way of Europe, and whose borders are crowded with the noble 
 relies of by-gone days of pomp and rugged splendor. The 
 distance from Cologne to Biebrich, which is the landing-place 
 for the great watering-place of Wiesbaden, is about 125 miles, 
 and the voyage between the two points, in going against the 
 current, is made in twelve hours, with three intermediate 
 stops at Bonn, Coblenz and Bingen. The down trip is made 
 in nine hours or less, but there is no special advantage in that, 
 for the voyager can count no time lost that is spent amid such 
 enchanting scenes. There is little to be seen of special inter- 
 est below Bonn, although the fading view of Cologne arrests 
 the attention for a while. Some time before Bonn is reached, 
 however, the graceful forms of the Seven Mountains, which 
 rise from the river's northern bank beyond that city, and just 
 above Konigswinter, are seen. They form the gateway to the 
 most romantic regions of the Rhine, and are themselves 
 crowned with ruined castles and enriched by numerous 
 legends. 
 
ô2 Appendix. 
 
 But we are Hearing the Drachenfels, which forms the out- 
 post of the line of peaks extending northward from this point. 
 The Drachenfels rises to a height of a little over a thousand 
 feet, and some of the others are nearly five hundred feet 
 higher. The Castle of Drachenfels is 916 feet above the 
 Rhine. It is near here where Siegfried is supposed to have 
 killed the dragon, and the product of the vineyards which 
 terrace the southern slopes is known as Drachenblut. Sieg- 
 fried bathed himself in the dragon's blood, and so became in- 
 vulnerable, except in a single spot a stray leaf chanced to pro- 
 tect at the time of his wonderful bath. 
 
 The Rhine steamers are fitted up with tables on deck, and 
 an ubiquitous waiter calls attention to the picturesque places 
 by announcing the products of the vineyards at so many 
 marks per bottle. The prices are generally quite low, and 
 the traveler can sip the products of the most famous vine- 
 yards, such as those of Assmannshausen, Rudensheim and 
 Johannisberg, while gazing upon the sunny slopes which gave 
 the liquor forth, or the amber Moselblumchen and Braune- 
 berger while floating past the mouth of the beautiful Mosel, 
 at Coblenz, and all at a mere fraction of what the wines cost 
 in America, and much less even than the German hotel- 
 keepers charge. But the waiter omitted the Drachenblut 
 from the list, so that I cannot report upon the magical quali- 
 ties of which it is still said to be possessed. If it imparts in- 
 vulnerability to the inner cuticle as the dragon's blood of old 
 did to the outer, it ought to be kept on draught where certain 
 American "drinks" are dispensed. 
 
 Above Konigswinter, on the opposite bank of the Rhine, 
 rises the ruined. Castle of Rolandseck, whilst the old nunnery 
 of Nonnenwerth is half hidden by the trees on an island in 
 the river. Roland was a brave French knight and a paladin 
 of Charlemagne. He fell in love with Ilildegunde, the fair 
 daughter of Count Heribert, lord, of the Seven Mountains, 
 and then went to the crusades. News came back that he had 
 fallen before the Infidels, and Ilildegunde betook herself to 
 the neighboring convent. The rumors of his death proved 
 untrue, and Roland came back to find his love lost to him for- 
 ever. In despair he built the castle, a crumbling arch alone 
 of which now remains, where he could overlook the walls 
 which held Ilildegunde. He saw her often, but there came a 
 time when a funeral procession was all that he descried. 
 From that moment he never spoke again, and it was not long 
 
Appendix. 53 
 
 before he died of a broken heart. Schiller's "Bitter Toggen- 
 burg" was suggested by this legend. 
 
 But there is a romantic legend attached to every castle we 
 shall pass during the day, and I will not weary your readers 
 by relating them. An unpoetic writer sums them all up very 
 briefly.: "The history of the Rhine," says he, "from one end 
 to the other, is very simple. There are always two sisters 
 who are in love with the same gentleman, who always goes to 
 the crusades and marries, and always comes back a ghost, and 
 marries again in spite of a baron, who always locks one of 
 seven daughters in a castle, which is attacked, sacked, and 
 razed to the ground by two brothers, both of whom also try 
 the crusades, then return, and both marry, or think of marry- 
 ing, the same lady, who always ends the matter by jumping 
 into the Rhine, where she makes whirlpools and attends wed- 
 dings, till she finally frightens some one into marrying her." 
 This outline does not fit especially the story of Roland and 
 Hildegunde, but it does many another of the Rhine legends, 
 and some of its elements are sure to exist with every castle. 
 The number of drowned maidens who haunt the waters is 
 something prodigious, and should all of them put in an ap- 
 pearance at once the navigation of the river would certainly 
 be impeded. 
 
 We reach Coblenz shortly before 3 o'clock, after passing 
 Chateau Rheineck, Hammerstein, the old town of Audernach, 
 with its extensive ruin, and the picturesque town of Neuwied. 
 Coblenz is charmingly situated at the junction of the Mosel 
 and the Rhine. Upon the opposite bank of the Rhine is the 
 great fortress of Ehrenbreitstein, where some twenty-five 
 hundred of the Emperor Wilhelm's soldiers are housed, while 
 twice as many more tire in the city over the river or in the 
 neighboring forts, which bristle upon all the hills. Even the 
 portals of the magnificent railroad bridge are fortified, and 
 present the aspect of a castle rather than that of a roadway 
 for peaceful travel and traffic. Surely, the "watch on the 
 Rhine " will be well kept. 
 
 Above Coblenz are more castles and more vineyards. First 
 appear Stolzenfels and Lalmeck, which are nearly opposite 
 each other, the latter standing at the mouth of the river Lahn, 
 while the other occupies the summit of a cliff over four hun- 
 dred feet high on the south bank of the Rhine. The castle of 
 Stolzenfels is owned by the royal family of Prussia, and has 
 been restored at a cost of over a quarter of a million of dol- 
 
54 Appendix. 
 
 lars. The castle of Marksburg is another imposing relic of 
 feudal times which has been restored. Near Bornhofen are 
 the ruins of the castles of Sterrenberg and Liebenstein, better 
 known as the "Brothers," which tell another tale of love and 
 the crusades. Higher on the river is the imposing castle of 
 Rheinfels, also in ruins, and then come Schonberg, Q-utenfels, 
 Stahleck, Furstenberg, Heimburg, Nollingen, Rheinstein, the 
 "Cat"' and the "Mouse," and I don't know how many others. 
 Above the little town of Caub, and in the middle of the river, 
 is the Pfalzgrafenstein, a castle-like structure, erected about 
 the beginning of the thirteenth century as a toll-house. Of 
 course, the gloomy old structure has its legend. This time it 
 was the obstinate daughter of a Count Palatine, in the time 
 of Henry VI., who would marry, and did marry, in spite of 
 locks and bars. We have, meanwhile, passed many pictur- 
 esque towns, including Boppard, St. Goar, Bacharach and 
 Lorch; and also the Lurlei, where the Siren of the Rhine had 
 her dwelling-place. The southern slopes bear long, regular lines 
 of vines, and in many places earth has been placed in crevices 
 and corners to give the vines a foothold and a lodgment. 
 
 Fair Bingen is upon both the Rhine and the Uahe, which 
 Hows into the Rhine at the foot of the gentle declivity upon 
 which the town rests. The slopes are covered with vineyards, 
 and we are in the heart of the richest wine district. Assman- 
 shausen, which produces the only red wine made on the Rhine, 
 is below, Rudesheim is nearly opposite, and Geisenheim a little 
 way above. Back of the latter town, on a vine-clad eminence, 
 is Schlofts Johannisberg. The picturesque castle of Ehrenfels 
 is on the opposite side of the Rhine from Bingen, and a short 
 distance below the town, and in the river at the same point 
 rises the famous Mausethurm, or Mouse Tower, where, the 
 legend tells us, the wicked Archbishop Hatto of Mayence was 
 devoured by an army of mice. The reliability of this story 
 is somewhat shaken by the discovery that the structure was 
 built about a century after the Archbishop lived and died. 
 
 Above the Niederwald the shores are flatter and less inter- 
 esting than below, although there are in this section several 
 ancient and very picturesque towns, one of which is Eltville, 
 where, one of the earliest printing presses was set up. It was 
 nearly dark when the steamer "drew up near the deserted 
 palace ot the Duke" of Nassau at Biebrich, from whence we 
 had a carriage-ride of some three miles to Wiesbaden. 
 
Appendix. 55 
 
 EUROPEAN RAILROADS. 
 
 UY REV. H. W. .TONES. 
 
 A stranger notices the substantial character of the whole 
 " plant." Expense seems nowhere to have been considered, 
 but only how to make everything as for all time. The bridges 
 are of solid masonry or iron. Nowhere is a wooden one, 
 whether over or under the track, to be seen. A deep rock- 
 cutting is rare, the hill is tunneled instead. Such burrowing 
 might almost be said to be as common in Europe as it is rare 
 in America. Going from Genoa to Pisa we passed through 
 more than eighty tunnels, some of them more than a mile 
 long. One of our party remarked that we were under ground 
 more than half the time, and, on reflection, the idea seemed 
 plausible. In Germany, along the Rhine, the entrances of 
 the tunnels are beautiful gateways, imitating, if not rivaling, 
 the architecture of its finest castles. A stone gateway at each 
 end of an important bridge, with a tower over a principal pier, 
 is not a rare sight. The railroad bridge spanning the Rhine 
 at Cologne has towers rising from each pier, and a gateway of 
 rich masonry at each end, crowned by an equestrian statue. 
 The fact that the government generally owns the railroads 
 partly explains how such embellishments can be afforded. 
 The station-houses in the cities are generally imposing build- 
 ings. That at Milan is one of the sights of the city. That 
 at Genioa is very fine, having a columned porte cochere in its 
 front, where passengers can leave or take carriages under 
 cover, and before it stands the fine statue of Columbus. The 
 accommodations within doors, however, are seldom up to our 
 American standard. 
 
 The international line over the Brenner pass is a magnifi- 
 cent specimen of engineering, — the road from Verona to 
 
56 Appendix. 
 
 Innsbruck and Munich. The altitude attained is 4,485 feet, 
 to gain which the road frequently doubles on itself, and in 
 places the grade is 1.40, or 132 feet to the mile. Tunnels are 
 frequent. The speed upward is of course slow. I expected 
 to shoot down like a spent rocket, but the descent was hardly 
 swifter than the ascent. Along this route I noticed the seven 
 telegraph wires, descending from the poles, gathered in a 
 bundle and laid out of sight in the masonry of the tunnels, 
 instead of being hung on insulators along the walls, as else- 
 where. 
 
 The rails used are generally of the heaviest patterns used in 
 America, with a very thick face, and the joint is that now gen- 
 erally preferred among ns, known as the "Fish "joint. The 
 length seems always the longest, thirty-six feet or more. 
 
 The road-bed is always of the solidest construction, de- 
 fended against land-slides often by buttresses, walls laid in 
 mortar, and against undermining by similar walls or sloping 
 embankments, faced with stone set on edge, like a city pave- 
 ment or a St. Louis levee. Indeed, large portions of the 
 banks of the Rhone and of the Rhine are faced with this style 
 of wall to defend the lands on either side from washing. The 
 Austrian and German roads are superbly ballasted with 
 broken stone, which seems to be an effectual preventive of 
 dust. In Italy and in Holland, however, we suffered more 
 from this evil than even in America. The turf-covered sides 
 of the cuts and embankments that one sees along all European 
 railways are no insurance against this bane of travel. 
 
 The locomotive, outside of America, at least in Western 
 Europe, is an ugly, black monster. Probably that is what it 
 always seems at first sight everywhere. But in America, by 
 contrast, and I think really, it is often a beautiful machine. 
 Our Hinckleys and Masons and Baldwins have vied with each 
 other till they have produced what must perforce excite the 
 admiration of every observer, whose fear has sufficiently sub- 
 sided to allow a fair judgment. A really graceful arrange- 
 ment of parts is possible and has been attained. The later 
 patterns are as much more beautiful than the earlier as our 
 top carriages are better shaped than the Canadian calèche. 
 Adding to this cylinder-heads, connecting-rods, pitmans, and 
 other parts of polished steel ; and brass and zinc and friction 
 metal, daintily disposed and burnished; and rougher portions 
 lightened up by ga}^ colors and ornamental painting, our loco- 
 motive emits beauty as well as speed along its way. But the 
 
Appendix. 57 
 
 European affair, even in Italy, home of the fine arts, where 
 frescoes and landscapes, and arabesques and medallions are as 
 abundant as if they flew in the air and stuck to every thing- 
 sticky, as gnats and leaves do to freshly-painted houses, the 
 locomotive is as homely a mass of iron as the human imagina- 
 tion can invent. To match such superb bridges, stations and 
 tunnels, one would look for something better, at least in the 
 countries of Brunelleschi and Kaulbach. Not a thought or a 
 centime seems to have been spent on form or coloring, and we 
 are drawn over those fine roads and amid those homes of beau- 
 tiful art by engines Avhose pieces have been put together with 
 an eye simply to efficiency, and every part that does not play 
 upon some other part, painted a dingy green, perhaps relieved 
 by some stripings of black, — huge hulks of homeliness. The 
 note of the American species is not generally admired, but it 
 bas kept pace with the rest of the machine in improvement, 
 and has certainly grown more mellow and musical in the lapse 
 of years. The European species retains still the wild squeal 
 of the undeveloped age. It must be also as uncouth and un- 
 comfortable to the engine men as it is unattractive to other 
 people. On some roads I saw a little shelter, projecting a foot 
 or two over their heads, but usually a mere wall before them, 
 with windows, is all the protection the engineer and fireman 
 have against the weather. 
 
 The cars are almost universally shorter than in America. 
 The longest are about the length of our long freight cars. 
 They usually run on six wheels, constituting a single truck — 
 a style of running gear which transforms most readily every 
 unevénness of track, whether lateral or vertical, into a corres- 
 ponding jerk of the traveler, with whom, but for the perfec- 
 tion of the tracks, it would go hard indeed. The wheels of 
 every species of vehicle are almost universally cast with 
 spokes, and have steel tires bolted on. One remarks the 
 almost entire absence of brakes and other hanging apparatus 
 under the cars. This, with their skeleton-like wheels, makes 
 them look open below, and high, almost as if on stilts. The 
 brakes are confined to the locomotive and the rear car, and in 
 long trains, one or more brake-cars between. In these cars 
 the guards ride, keeping watch of the train from projections 
 at the sides and towers above, that furnish a good view, but 
 complete the disfigurement of the train, so well begun by the 
 locomotive. The signal cord is not unknown, but where used 
 is hung outside, under the eaves. 
 
58 Appendix. 
 
 The freight ears, called "goods wagons*' in England, are in 
 Great Britain generally open, what we call platforms or flats, 
 and provided with tarpaulins, which, in that moist climate, 
 must be in requisition at least often enough to prevent their 
 getting lost. Coal is generally moved in sacks, whether in 
 transit or in city delivery. On the Continent box cars are the 
 more common, and made of iron. 
 
 The lighting of the passenger cars, everywhere alike, for 
 night service, and by day where tunnels are frequent, is over- 
 head by tubular lamps, set in glass bowls, that catch all drip- 
 pings. They are reached from the roof. 
 
 The radical difference between American and foreign pas- 
 senger cars is in the compartment plan. The European car is 
 simply the old stage coach, or rather several coaches set in 
 one frame. Often the outlines of the stage coach are pre- 
 served on the outside, as if to suggest the line of descent. In 
 other words, the vehicle is divided by partitions into several 
 small rooms, having doors at the ends, — that is, at the side of 
 the car — and two seats, each marked off by head and arm 
 rests, as for three or four persons. These sit facing other 
 three or four, one seatfull riding backward. In England, and 
 again in Switzerland, we rode once or twice in cars which 
 were entered from platforms at the ends, as in America. 
 Sometimes the partition divides the space, as in the cars which 
 took us from Harwich to London. But the universal aim 
 seems to be to divide the travelers into companies of six or 
 eight, and prevent all communication with others. If these 
 six or eight are acquainted, and mutually agreeable, the plan 
 has its advantages. It is a convenience, too, in certain cases 
 of sickness, or in taking a lunatic to an asylum, or a criminal 
 to jail. But even in these cases the advantages areas well 
 secured by our drawing-room cars. In other cases the dis- 
 advantages are manifold. The publicitj- of a large ear is 
 almost absolute defense against personal assault or insult, such 
 as often does happen, and is always liable to occur on a Euro- 
 pean train. The frequent partitions cut off the view of the 
 country. On the Brenner Pass the traveler is defrauded of 
 half his money by this nuisance. In America he has the 
 benefit of thirty windows; in Europe of but six; and, if he 
 sit in the middle, he can see only the roots of the mountains, 
 without knowing whether they have any tops or not. The 
 difficulty of finding one's place in such a train is very great. 
 It must be done before the train starts; there is no passing 
 
Appendix. 59 
 
 from car to car afterward. To recognize your compartment 
 out of so many all alike, often without a number, in the hurry 
 of a short stoppage perhaps, or ride to the next station in the 
 wrong place, or perhaps to be shut out and left behind, such 
 are some of the alternatives. One never knows, except by 
 accident, who are his fellow-travelers. The very upholstery 
 of such a carriage, that is otherwise comfortable, is often a 
 nuisance. Always there is a head-rest, and always it is too 
 high, at least for ordinary people. One has to reach up to get 
 the benefit of it. The idea of having to stand up to lie down! 
 In warm weather this closet is hot. The rides over the burning 
 plains between Pisa and Milan, and the Roman Campagna, 
 in compartments that had been warmed up by that fierce 
 sun, were exasperated by the vast retentive power of so much 
 plush and curled hair. But these inconveniences, if the mass- 
 ing of them allows their retaining so mild a name, are over- 
 shadowed by the utter want of mercy which the system shows 
 toward those occasional necessities of the traveler for which 
 ours provide, in at least one corner of every car. As if to 
 mock these calls, one may find, after long scrutiny among a 
 multitude of placards, in a long depot, one pointing out the 
 desired retreat, but as inaccessible as the North pole, by rea- 
 son of its distance from his compartment, or the lock on his 
 door, or the uncertain length of the stop. One seems hardly 
 less mocked if he finds posted in, perhaps, two cars in a whole 
 three months trip a notice to persons in his case to mention it 
 to the guard ! Whether such a notice ever does answer the 
 purpose I do not know. But of this I am sure, that the suf- 
 ferings on this account which one party of Americans en- 
 dured from this barbarous system, in a single day, on the 
 Brenner Pass, would make a story horrible enough to sweep 
 the system out of existence — if it had been an American 
 system. 
 
 Another illustration of the disregard of the railroad service 
 for the comfort of its passengers is found in the scarcity of 
 water. Station restaurant keepers, like hotel keepers, may 
 perhaps be expected to furnish either none at all, or only that 
 which is nndrinkable, in order to force the sale of their 
 higher-priced beverages. But one would expect better of a 
 railroad corporation. Yet a drink of fresh water is one of 
 the almost inaccessible things on any continental railway. 
 Here and there in Italy one hears the cry, "Aqua fresca!" or, 
 in Germany, " Wasser!" shouted by a vender of the precious 
 
60 Appendix. 
 
 beverage, at so many centimes or pfennige a glass, and, if 
 there is time, a bargain can be struck and the drink secured. 
 In a few instances, in Italy on!}-, I think, an employe brought 
 water to the car doors. But, as a rule, none was to be had, 
 for hour after hour, through a long day's ride. No searching 
 through all the rooms in the successive station-houses passed 
 availed. If by chance a well appeared on the premises, there 
 was neither bucket nor pump in it, or the signals for starting 
 nipped the pursuit in the bud. Experience at length taught 
 us to carry mugs, and on those long rides by rail, whenever 
 the symptoms indicated two or three minutes stop of the train, 
 a race began, in which the gentlemen, and often the ladies, of 
 the party joined in search of water. Many carried bottles of 
 tea, which they replenished at the hotel before starting. By 
 these devices, after experience had taught them, we were at 
 length able to provide comfortably for ourselves. If only 
 some one had forewarned us — as I now do my readers — it 
 would have saved us much distress. 
 
 The division of all railroad, accommodations into classes, 
 first, second, and third, is noticeable, and carried to such an 
 extreme as to appear to an American ridiculous. It is never 
 overlooked. Every train has its compartments, distinguished 
 outside usually only by the numbers, I, II, III; inside by dif- 
 ferent grades of furnishing. The station-houses have separate 
 waiting-rooms, and often separate standing*-places on the plat- 
 forms, and separate refreshment rooms. Steamboats, even 
 the smaller passenger boats on the Clyde, the Rhine and the 
 Swiss lakes, observe the distinction. Forgetting it, I have 
 found myself repulsed, almost rudely, when foraging in the 
 wrong place for a lunch, and reminded to look elsewhere for 
 the accommodations that belonged to my sort, though how 
 the man knew that I was not a third-class man I never could 
 find out! 
 
 One cannot help noticing how much more effort it takes to 
 start a train elsewhere than in America. With us, the con- 
 ductor calls to the passengers, "All aboard," and waves his 
 hand or his lantern to the engineer, a signal or two from the 
 whistle and the bell of the locomotive, and the train is off. 
 In Italy an official rings a country tavern dinner-bell, other 
 officials hurry along to shut and fasten the car doors, shouting 
 "Pesta! Pesta!" (or something which sounds like it) with 
 earnest gesticulations, to delaying passengers, hurried and 
 vehement discussions ensue between several uniformed ones 
 
 R D - 1 9- 
 
Appendix. 61 
 
 on the platform, before the conclusion of. which half the doors 
 are open again and several men straggling — for who wants hi& 
 imprisonment to begin a minute sooner than it must? — the 
 guards again shout "Pesta! Pesta!" the passengers disappear, 
 the doors slam again all along the train, an official puts a brass 
 whistle to his mouth and blows a signal, which the locomotive 
 imitates surprisingly, even to pith and timbre, — and the train 
 is oft*. This would be hardly an exaggeration taken as the 
 representative "start" for all the Continent. 
 
 The lettering on the cars is a constant succession of inter- 
 esting conundrums. We tacitly challenged each other to see 
 who would guess them first without help. I will give you 
 some of them, but am not cruel enough to leave you without 
 the answer till another letter "K Bay. Sts B.," or "K B. S. 
 B.," stands for "Koenighche Bayern Staats Bahn" (or "Eisen- 
 bahn "), and means Kxwal Bavarian States Iron Road. "M. 
 N. E." stands for " Main-Neckar Eisenbahn," and means the 
 road running along the Main and Neckar rivers. "S. F. R." 
 stands for " Strada Ferrata Romana," meaning Roman Iron 
 Street, or Railway. "S. F. A. I.," or "F. A. I.," as I saw it 
 abridged on the caps of the officials, was too much for us, and 
 we had to call in an interpreter. He unfolded it as " Strada 
 Ferrata Alta Italia," meaning Railway of Upper Italy. 
 
 We could learn something about railroads from our far-oft" 
 neighbors, and they something from us. They could teach us 
 solidity, and safety from accident. We could teach them com- 
 fort, safety to health, and I know not how many other things. 
 They far excel us in the road and station houses — the real 
 estate. We beat them out of sight and sound in the rolling 
 stock and the ease of doing business. 
 
-S» ! 
 
 >> 
 
 V * 
 
 ■c.v 
 
 W* : <^\ °^> ***** ' m - 
 
 ^ ^. 
 
 o" * 
 
 
 
 0? L ' . 
 
 "ov 1 
 
 
 W 
 
 

 
 c~ ♦ 
 
 -s ^ 
 
 * «? ^ oil 
 
 V ' . . « * .0 o ' ". "» <• ^, 
 
 D0BB.BR0S. \>J> :MMJK° * <P 
 
 '. ST. AUGUSTINE 
 
 FLA. ,«^°% ^ r 0^ t -^* ^O 
 
 '...* ,0 
 
 JAN 7 9 £ % 
 
 3?0B4 
 
 *W