TS 990 
 .H36 
 Copy 1 
 

 JUL 2811. ' 
 
 .t'''"!"> 
 
 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 
 
 Chap. 1 Copyright No. „ 
 
 Shelf.4.iA3.& 
 
 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 
 
 ALBERT 0. TROSTEL. 
 
 Albert 1 rostel & Sons^ 
 
 PROPRIETORS OF 
 
 PHOENIX AND STAR TANNERIES; 
 
 Located at Milwaukee. 
 
 OFFICE, 6J2-652 COMMERCE STREET, MILWAUKEE, WIS. 
 
 Boston Office and Warerooms, 55 South Street, Boston, Mass. 
 N. L. McKAY, Manager. 
 
 PhoPnix Kid ^^^ latest success. Mineral tanned leather 
 
 in calfskins. High, durable gloss finish on 
 
 grain. Similar in finish to Glazed Kid, but considered superior. 
 
 " KrOfTI=LlJStrC " ^ mineral tanned leather. High gloss 
 
 and boarded grain. 
 
 Russia dfllf Gambier tanned. Pliable and fine grain stock 
 
 in popular shades. 
 
 Kangaroo Calf and Sides. 
 
 Mellow leather, 
 filled flanks. 
 
 Well 
 
 Velveteen ^ smooth dull grain finished side leather. A 
 remarkable imitation of Wax Calf. 
 
 Satin Cllove Same as Velveteen, but larger sides. 
 
 ALSO MANUFACTURERS OF 
 
 Hemlock Wax Cair and Veals, Wax Flesh Splits, 
 
 Hemlock and Union Wax Upper, Flexible Insole Splits, 
 
 Oil and Plow Grain, Upper Tannage Insole, 
 
 Hemlock Slaughter Sole, Bright Grain. 
 
Stanle! Mani;facti:rinc Co. 
 
 MAKERS OF 
 
 Boot and Shoe Machinerv 
 
 No. 117 LINCOLN STREET, 
 
 Boston, Mass. 
 
 U. S. A. 
 
 
 PATTERN DRAFTING MACHINE. 
 
OF THE BLACKINGS. 
 
 
 CEMENTS. DRESS- 
 INGS, STAINS, Ac, 
 USEDBYTHEBCSDT 
 AND SHOE MAN- 
 UFACTURERS OF 
 THE WORLD ARE 
 
 MANUFACTURED ?Je 
 
 Boston Blacking Co. 
 
 Boston, Mass., U. 5. A. 
 
 ENGLISH BRANCH: LEICESTER, ENGLAND. 
 
 GERMAN AGENTS : KEATS MACHINERY CO., Frankfort a. M. 
 FRENCH AGENTS : A. HERMANN & CO., Paris, France. 
 
Bi 
 
 DESIGNING. CUTTING 
 AND GRADING 
 
 OOT AND SHOE PATTERNS 
 
 AND COMPLETE MANUAL FOR 
 THE STITCHING ROOM, 
 
 BY AN EXPERT OF THIRTY YEARS. 
 
 THOROUGHLY ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 Sv^^S'sJw; 
 
 
 Copyrighted by Joseph Van Ness, iSgg. 
 
 BOSTON, U.S.A. 
 
 PRESS OF SUPERINTENDENT AND FOREMAN. 
 
 1S99. 
 
 L 
 
^ 
 
 t?871fi 
 
 ^^Js^ 
 
 This measurement is from Bottom of Heel. 
 
 wear as long as any heel 
 on the market. 
 
 It is the cheapest, as 
 it IS a whole hael. 
 
 For Women and iVVen. 
 
 Patented February S, iSgS. 
 
 You save your rand 
 and do not have to use 
 any lifts. 
 
 Price $3.00 dozen, 
 Sizes 5, 7, 8, 9. 
 
 $3.50 doz. for n, 12, J3. 
 
 Russet, 5c. pair extra. 
 
 MEN'S 
 
 Countersink nails 1-4 inch. 
 
 Eureka Fasteners 
 
 FOR LACE SHOES. 
 
 These Fasteners are put 
 in shoes at same time you 
 do strings now, and if care 
 is taken they will last for 
 vears. 
 
 Cheaper than Strings 
 and 
 Saves Half of Labor. 
 
 Patclil apjJIK-d loi 
 
 Adopted by the Largest Manufacturers. 
 
 To be used wfiile making shoes. 
 
 They can be used over again. 
 Will not stretch. 
 
 Every shoe uniform. 
 
 C. S. Pierce, Brockton, Mass., U.S.A. 
 
 W^OCDf 
 
 THE IMPROVED COTE GRADING MACHINE. 
 
 ''EB »yecfciv6o 
 
 Patented 
 in 
 
 Europe 
 
 and 
 America. 
 
 J it 2; 1889 
 
 Patented 
 
 March l, 
 
 1892 
 
 s^^P?* vflfe'^is-fae' only machine which will grade widths of upper patterns. Whole sets of all widths 
 
 caH'tlE' graded from one width set of standards and so true tliat tiling up is not necessary. Pattern 
 
 men cannot fail to appreciate this feature. Absolute fitting of lasts is guaranteed, no matter what 
 
 the grade may he, American, EngMsh or Continental, without extra parts, labor or further adjustment. 
 
 This machine may be seen in operation at the office of 
 
 C. B. HATFIELD, 143 Federal Street, Boston, Mass. 
 
 LOUIS COTE, St. Hyacinthe, P. Q. 
 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Page. 
 
 CHAPTER I. Moulding the Last . . 3 
 
 CHAPTER n. Getting and Dissecting the 
 
 Standard ....... 6 
 
 CHAPTER HI. A Lady's Dongola Boot.— 
 
 Button.'^ in Right Position . . . 11 
 
 CHAPTER IV. The Cloth Lining and But- 
 ton Fly. — Vamping Through Linings. — 
 Getting the Button Fly. 14 
 
 CHAPTER V. Circular Vamp. — Rounding 
 
 OFF Corners . . . . . . 18 
 
 CHAPTER VI. Button Fly and Top Fac- 
 ing. — A Popular Foxing. ... 25 
 
 CHAPTER VII. Whole-Foxed or Seamless 
 Vamps, Cloth Quarters, and F"ly Lin- 
 ings ........ 28 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. Woman's Dongola Beaded 
 
 Vamp Gypsy Button Boot . . 33 
 
 CHAPTER IX. The Side Lace Shoe and 
 Climax Button Boot. — Front and Back 
 Quarters ....... 38 
 
 CHAPTER X. Woman's Le.\ther Congress. 44 
 
 CHAPTER XI. Button Boot With Rolled 
 
 Top ........ 46 
 
 CHAPTER XII. Front Lace Shoes . 50 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. Cloth Quarters and Welt 
 
 Shoes . . . . . . . 55 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. McKay, Oxford, Circular 
 Vamp, Foxed Quarters, and Circular 
 Linings ....... 59 
 
 CHAPTER XV. An Even Bead Oxford 65 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. Newports, Southern Ties, 
 
 and Low Cuts ...... 67 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. Strap Sandals and Opera 
 
 Slippers ....... 73 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. A Women's Cloth Con- 
 gress. Tips ...... "jj 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. Men's Shoes ... 80 
 
 
Contents. — Continued. 
 
 CHAPTER XX. Concerning Men's Vamps . 
 CHAPTER XXI. Men's Lace and Congress. 
 
 Lasting ....... 
 
 CHAPTER XXn. F"itting and Lasting the 
 
 Congress ....... 
 
 CHAPTER XXni. Grading Upper P.\t- 
 
 terns ........ 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. Grading by Hand . 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. Getting the Lining and 
 Button Fly, Working from EE, and 
 Grading Infants ..... 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. The Old One-Sixteenth 
 Inch Rule ....... 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. One Method Correct . 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. Grading Widths, Some 
 Use only Three-Width Patterns, Heel 
 Measure ....... 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. Grading Button Fly 
 
 P-\GE. 
 85 
 
 89 
 
 95 
 
 100 
 104 
 
 1 10 
 
 114 
 116 
 
 I 22 
 129 
 
 Veiours , ^- 
 
 oreatest 
 K^Cllf ^;4^ Success. 
 
 BLACK AND COLORS, 
 
 GLAZED AND DULL. 
 
 The glazed stock is equal 
 to the finest kid made any- 
 where, and shoe manufact- 
 urers ambitious of leading 
 should put "VELOURS 
 CALF " into their sam- 
 ples. It will supersede 
 diced and boarded chrome 
 skins. 
 
 Write for samples and prices. 
 
 Pfister d Vo^el 
 
 Z' J J /^ Tanners and 
 
 J^eather Co. corners, 
 
 '7/filwaukee, Wis. 
 
 37 Spruce Street, New York City. 
 161-3 Summer Street, Boston, Mass. 
 
 JK Ccchnical Journal 
 
 ]publi6bc^ cvcr\? CucsCtav 
 at 143 jFcDcral Street, 
 36o5ton, 11.5.3., IRoom U, 
 for tbe Sboe an^ Xeatber 
 CraC>c£i, br Sosepb Uan 
 V^cii. Sii'bscriinion, 52 
 per v^car, pavablc in a&= 
 vancc. 
 
 Per ScbMbfabriKant 
 und seine (Uerkfuebrer 
 
 is the German e<lition of SUPERINTENDENT 
 .i^ND FOREMAN, .ind is published on first and 
 fifteenth of every month, circulation mainly 
 on the continent of Europe. .Subscription S5 a 
 year, payable in advance. Aildress for either, 
 
 JOSEPH VAN NESS, 
 143 Federal Street, Boston, U.S.A. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 It is my purpose to write of and fully illustrate the art 
 of designing and cutting boot and shoe patterns so that up- 
 pers cut therefrom may fit the lasts perfectly. I shall con- 
 stantly keep in mind the operations to be performed on the 
 uppers in the fitting room, in the lasting room, and in all 
 other departments of the factory. My constant aim will be 
 to economize stock in the cutting room, to save time and 
 labor in the fitting room, and to produce patterns from 
 which, with our modern factory methods, may be made 
 shoes that fit well, look well, and are full of that more or 
 less definite something which we call "style." 
 
 I shall also treat at full length the various methods of 
 grading in sizes and widths with the different grading ma- 
 chines, comparing the results. I shall describe the various 
 methods of hand grading, fully illustrating all with careful- 
 ly drawn diagrams. 
 
 This is an undertaking of considerable magnitude, and 
 although I have been for the last thirty-five years almost 
 continuously travelling throughout the United States and 
 Canada, visiting repeatedly almost every boot and shoe 
 manufacturer in America, except where very heavy goods 
 only are made, instructing manufacturers, their superin- 
 tendents or foremen, and gathering points for myself, I 
 nevertheless hesitate at undertaking a task that is so filled 
 with detail and so difficult to make intelligible. 
 
 I am aware that there are publications on the subject 
 of boot and shoe patterns for which large prices are asked, 
 but I never yet have seen one by which the ordinary person 
 can, without previous training, become a thorough pat- 
 tern maker or designer, capable of doing practical work in 
 a shoe factory. 
 
 I will commence with women's, misses' and children's 
 boots and low cuts, heel and spring heel. I will treat 
 these in McKay's, welts and turns individually. Men's, 
 boys' and youth's will follow, and all will be illustrated with 
 the necessary diagrams. The writer will use his best en- 
 deavors to the end that the information may be of such 
 a character that any person mechanically inclined can from 
 it and the necessary practical exoerience become oroficient. 
 
 C. B. HATFIELD. 
 
 ROCHESTER, N. Y., October, 1897. 
 
DESIGNING, CUTTING AND GRADING 
 BOOT AND SHOE PATTERNS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 MOULDING THE LAST. 
 
 It is premised that we start with a proper last. Let 
 us begin with a woman's McKay sewed circular vamp don- 
 gola buttoned boot. To properly mould the last is the 
 first operation. Men do, or try to do, this in different 
 ways. In one a piece of upper leather is moistened, drawn 
 over the last, rubbed down and moulded until it fits closely 
 to the last at every point. It is fastened in this position with 
 tacks and remains on the last until thoroughly dried. Then 
 the leather is cut away around tht edge of the last where 
 the edge of the insole would come. Then a straight line is 
 cut from the centre of the cone, at the top, to the centre of 
 the toe, and up and down the centre of the heel. The 
 leather comes off the last in two parts, one from the inside, 
 the other the outside, in shell-like appearance. Partly by 
 moistening and partly by slashing the edges these shells 
 are flattened out. The mean average of these two pieces 
 of leather, on paper, is supposed to give a proper mould. 
 Such a mould may do for very coarse, heavy work, but it 
 is not sufficiently accurate for fine work. 
 
 Another method proceeds on similar lines with heavy 
 drill or canvas, using shellac to fasten to the last. The re- 
 sult is no better. 
 
 Positive proof that neither of these is the correct meth- 
 od is found as follows: Let two dififerent people mould the 
 same last by either method, and compare results. 
 
 The simplest, most positive, most practical method 
 was invented bv myself nineteen years ago — a method so 
 simple and so correct that when followed out and accord- 
 ing to instructions, ten different people in ten different 
 localities will all arrive at identical results. 
 
 Cut a piece of manila paper, about the substance of 
 that used by professional pattern makers, into shape ap- 
 proximating the shape of one-half the last, leaving it large 
 enough to cover one side. Next draw a line with a pencil 
 
4 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 from the centre of the comb of the last to the centre of the 
 toe on top, or as near centre c-.s the eye locates. If it be a 
 welt or turn last, line the last where the edge of the sole 
 would come on the shank. Lay the last on its side, tack 
 the paper to side of the heel, about half way up, and swing 
 the toe of the paper up and down until it is in the right po- 
 sition. (See diagram i.) Then tack it to the last at the 
 
 ball, and, while the paper is lying flat, tack it to the side of 
 the toe, springing the paper neither up nor down on the 
 last, but allowing it to lie naturally, thus preserving the toe 
 spring of the last. This is very essential: Use as many 
 tacks as you choose, but do not twist the paper. Next 
 slash the paper as seen in diagram i. \Miile the last is ly- 
 ing upon a support, rub the lower edge along the line of 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 5 
 
 the sole with a dirty handled knife, a bit of lead, or anything 
 which, being rubbed along the projection of the corner of 
 the sole of the last, will leave a black mark. See dotted line 
 "A," diagram i. Care must be taken at the lower back cor- 
 ner of the heel, or the paper will lift from the last and cause 
 a downward curved mark, as shown by dotted line B, dia- 
 gram I. 
 
 When you have thus determined the line of sole, bring 
 each piece as marked with the small numerals on diagram 
 I, — 1-2-3-4-5, etc., successively, one at a time, to the line 
 already drawn through the middle of the last. Mark with 
 pencil or cut with knife on the line until the whole is fin- 
 ished. After this operation pull out the tacks and remove 
 
 paper. Proceed in same way with the other side of the 
 last and another piece of paper. This gives you both sides 
 of the last on paper. 
 
 To obtain the mean average of these two sides — and by 
 that means to calculate what is necessary to cover one-half 
 of the last — mark on another piece of manila paper, around 
 first one of these half moulds, and then the other, in the 
 same relative position on each. See diagram 2. After this 
 cut out your mould, splitting all differences, or dividing be- 
 tween the lines with \'our eye. 
 
 You now have what is called the mould of the last, 
 which will be in this instance a woman's 4-C McKay 
 sewed. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 GETTING AND DISSECTING THE STANDARD. 
 
 The next step will be to get a shell or complete outside 
 Standard for an ordinary button boot, side lace, or any boot 
 that is seamed both front and back in the leg. Select a 
 piece of paper large enough to make a standard and place 
 the last mould on it. Set a pair of dividers for McKay 
 work, say five-eighths mch, and draw around the bottom of 
 the last mould. This gives sufiticient stock for lasting and 
 
 DIAGRAM 4. 
 
 covering the insole. It may take a little less or a little 
 more, the amount depending largely on the stock and the 
 factory. What is just enough for one factory is not enough 
 for another, owing mostly to the way the laster uses his pin- 
 cers. These things must be decided by the pattern maker, 
 for he has the opportunity to observe the results of his ef- 
 forts; and any one who proposes to become proficient in de- 
 signing must have a good store of sound common sense 
 and be willing to use it at any and all times as against the- 
 ory. 
 
 The next step is to get the floor line. See diagram 4, 
 F F. This is done by measuring down from about the 
 centre of the heel the height that the breast of the heel 
 is to be, in this instance three-fourths of an inch; and from 
 this point draw a line by means of a straight edge to the 
 ball of the mould. This represents the floor that the shoe 
 will rest on when finished, only it would be the thickness 
 of the sole lower. 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 7 
 
 Now erect a perpendicular line from the floor by 
 means of a right angled square, just touching the extreme 
 rear point of the mould at the heel, and extending upwards 
 say seven and a half inches. Then get the curve for the 
 back of the leg by means of a curve, drawn by your eye, 
 from the top, or near the top of the back of the heel of the 
 mould, to a pomt six inches upward from the bottom of the 
 mould and three-eighths of an inch backward from the ver- 
 tical. Some manufacturers of ladies' fine shoes have 
 adopted the leg curve for ladies' shoes, shown in diagram 
 No. 5. 
 
 DIAGRAM 5. 
 
 If you do not have this curve, measure across the 
 smallest part of the ankle, or where it curves in the great- 
 est, one-half the girth measurement of the ball of the last; 
 then add one-eighth inch for the two seams, front and 
 back, and erect another perpendicular from the floor. See 
 diagram 4, line A. 
 
 This being a 4-C, the standard height in America at 
 the back is six inches from the rand up. The height at the 
 front should be more, as the eye will tell you, so draw a 
 straight line across the top, slanting up at the front. Where 
 this line intersects the perpendicular measure back from 
 the perpendicular the same amount of space as the top of 
 
8 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 the back line lays bacjc of the back perpendicular. From 
 this point in front draw a straight line to the point of meas- 
 urement that you have across the ankle. See diagram 4, 
 line "B." 
 
 This finishes the leg except the curve at the throat, 
 which, unless you have some fixed curve, you must put in 
 with your eye, striking the comb of the last. 
 
 Now, using a size stick, get the length of the last. As 
 is quite generally known all ladies' lasts nowadays are made 
 at least one size longer than standard measure in America, 
 so that size four would draw five sizes on the size stick. 
 Consequently our present experiment draws five sizes. It is 
 now necessary to add 4H sizes to the length of the pat- 
 tern over the length of the last, from extreme bulge of heel 
 to extreme point of toe, to make it long enough to last. In 
 this case the extreme length of the standard would be 9/4 
 sizes. 
 
 It is better to end the toe of the standard on a curve 
 such as would be desirable in a seam to toe or "gipsy" cut, 
 such as side lace congress, gipsy, button, etc. See dia- 
 gram 4. 
 
 Now draw a horizontal line from the point of the toe 
 to the extreme bulge of the heel, and with a pair of dividers 
 divide into three equal parts. See diagram 4, lines "C," 
 "D." 
 
 By means of a square draw down from the horizontal 
 line at rear point of intersecting third, and upward from 
 first third. See diagram 4. 
 
 The centre of the shank on a size 4 is seven-eighths of 
 an inch ahead of the back perpendicular line drawn from 
 the third, D, and this is the place at which to end the curve 
 of a circular vamp except in extreme cases. The length of 
 the vamp on top in a finished shoe, size 4, varies according 
 to taste, but at the present time it is desired to be from three 
 and five-eighths to four and one-fourth inches. The shape 
 of the curve is entirely a matter of taste. 
 
 The standard may now be dissected for various styles 
 of shoes, but before proceeding further get out a standard 
 for a woman's spring heel 4-C; the only difference being 
 the height of the heel, showing that the floor line, F, must 
 be obtained from the shoe as it will be finished. See dia- 
 gram ID. 
 
 It will be observed that the curve at the back of the 
 leg is somewhat straighter in a spring heel shoe, and that 
 the throat curve is somewhat sharper. This is because the 
 foot is in a different position relatively to the leg than when 
 it is in a heel shoe. 
 
 Now notice diagram 11. This represents a standard 
 got out from a last made to carry a heel one and three- 
 fourths inches high at the breast. The diagram shows very 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 9 
 
 plainly a difiference in the curve at the back of the leg; it is 
 much sharper; the throat curve is straighter; and in these 
 particulars it is just the reverse of a spring heel shoe. 
 
 A continuation of the back curve in its present posi- 
 
 DIAGRAM 11. 
 
 Diagram 12 shows the standard with the curved line 
 of the vamp, the curved line of the front of the quarter 
 where the vamp is stitched and the lap that is required. 
 The amount of lap required is not uniform. In some fac- 
 tories more is required than in others. Some factories re- 
 
lO 
 
 Desi^nin^, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 quire one-fourth inch only, others three-eighths inch. It 
 is best in all cases to cut paterns with the lap that has been 
 in use in the stitching room of a factory. No advantage 
 is to be gamed by arbitrarily changing it. 
 
 For convenience of getting out the pattern, cut the 
 piece of paper representing the lap our of the standard. 
 Always make the lap for a plain vamp, and never allow for 
 beading, provided it be a beaded vamp, in the opening. 
 It is very easy to add the beading to the vamp when getting 
 it out. This serves to prevent confusion, for the question 
 
 DIAGRAM 12. 
 
 sometimes arises as to whether the standard was for plain 
 or beaded vamp. Diagram 12 also shows a foxing laid 
 out, with the lap, at bottom of quarter. Again referring 
 to diagram 12, you will notice near the top of the leg two 
 lines drawn across, one representing the lower edge of the 
 top facing, marked "H," the other representing the top 
 edge of the cloth lining, "L." This standard is made with a 
 wave top, for the purpose of getting out the first standard 
 button boot with an even bead around the edge of the up- 
 per where it is beaded. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 A LADV S DONGOLA BOOT. 
 
 To cut a ladies' dongola button boot pattern : first, cut 
 a piece of paper large enough to fold in the centre. Cut two 
 quarters at one cutting. They are then necessarily exactly 
 alike, the second one not increased in size as it would be 
 by marking around one to get the other. Mark around 
 the standard to get your quarters.. Cut out. This will of 
 course leave both the same size. Commencing at the bot- 
 tom end (see diagram 13) at "C," cut away for small quar- 
 
 DIAGRAM 13. 
 
 ter along the instep line three-sixteenths of an inch until 
 the curve of throat is reached, then cut away about one- 
 fourth of an inch. Measure in at the top of the quarter, say 
 three-fourths of an inch from the front and finish from the 
 top of throat curve to that point. The fly or button lap, as 
 it may be termed when the shoe is finished, will cover that 
 portion of the small quarter at the top. It will save stock 
 to cut it straight out from the lowest point of top and then 
 round the corner, as in diagram 13, letter "B." 
 
12 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 BUTTONS IN RIGHT POSITION. 
 
 Permit a digression at this point and reference to the 
 greatest source of trouble in a button boot, viz, the correct 
 positions of the buttons. By looking at the shoes in a last- 
 ing room in a great many shoe factories, it will be found 
 that the front seam on the instep of the last is very crooked. 
 Oftentimes it appears to run away to the inside. The bot- 
 tom end of the button fly between the vamp and the first 
 button bulges up, showing a bad fullness or wrinkle. Ex- 
 amination of the line of the small quarter under the button 
 fly shows that it is from three- eighths to five-eighths of an 
 inch below the front seam, having been drawn down there 
 by lasting. All this is the result of the buttons not having 
 been put on in their proper places to hold the small quarter 
 up where it belongs. 
 
 It is the height of folly to undertake to cut patterns 
 for button boots to the one-thirty-second of an inch, and 
 then allow by carelessness, neglect, or thi-ough ignorance, 
 the operative in the stitching room to put buttons on and 
 not have them in their proper places. It may be further 
 said that there is more trouble caused by want of attention 
 to the proper placing of buttons on button boots than by 
 any one thing that transpires in their manufacture. See that 
 every button is put on in its proper position. 
 
 A great many pattern makers, professional and ama- 
 teur, cut away the small quarter down the instep line only 
 one-sixteenth of an inch at the bottom to one-eighth of an 
 inch near the throat curve. This may be correct in the- 
 ory, but a dongola boot will not fit if cut in this manner. 
 The shoe will not be even at the bottom edges, when fold- 
 ed carefully along the instep seam and held by the thumb 
 and finger, the bottom edges drawn down by the other 
 hand. The out or button side of the upper will extend be- 
 low the inside from one-eighth to three-eighths of an inch, 
 unless when vamping, the lower end of the small quarter 
 is lapped clear by the centre seam all the way up to the 
 throat, while the positions for the buttons are being 
 marked. 
 
 Now this applies to a dongola button boot; but if cut 
 from heavy grain, split, buf?, or anything of that kind, the 
 small quarter should be cut away down the instep line from 
 one-fourth of an inch to five-sixteenths of an inch. 
 
 In fitting the small quarter of a button boot the re- 
 mark is often made, "Why, the small quarter beads ofT a 
 seam." But it does not. Only another theory. Look 
 over a lot of shoes in the factory ready to be vamped. It 
 will be found that the cloth lining does all the beading and 
 simply adds on to the small quarter down the front line. 
 There are a few factories in the United States where the 
 beading is done evenly down that line, but they are but few. 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 13 
 
 and the prices paid for that work arc correspondingly high. 
 Starting up the front of a small quarter three-eighths of 
 an inch back, cut away three-sixteenths of an inch down to 
 the front end of the small quarter. See "C," diagram 13. 
 This is done for the purpose of giving the operator who 
 closes the lining on to the outside a guide to work from, 
 
 DIAGRAM 14. 
 
 as well as to accomplish a purpose in closing the toe of the 
 lining. When cutting a pattern for a very cheap shoe, it 
 will be well to round the front end of the small quarter 
 clear down to the place where it meets the lower end of the 
 button fly. See diagram 14, "C." This would save stock 
 and take the thickness out from under the lower end of the 
 button fly and vamp, as shown at "C," diagram 14. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 THE CLOTH LINING AND HUTTON FLY. 
 
 The next step will be to get a cloth lining. It is 
 preferable in all cases where the cost of production will al- 
 low to cut two lining patterns, one for the full quarter, the 
 other cut away to match the small quarter. Leave on 
 about one-twelfth of an inch down the front, so that the 
 quarter may be set back a little on the lining. The cloth, 
 not being so liable to fray out, gives the operator (generally 
 termed the "closer on" or the "second closer") a guide to 
 stitch by, and does not require her to use her judgment as 
 to the amount of material to be trimmed away down the 
 front of the lining on the small side. In other words, she 
 is not obliged to gauge the distance back from the edge of 
 
 DIAGRAM 15. 
 
 the lining with her eye. If left to one lining pattern and 
 the judgment of the operator, where eye measurement is 
 used entirely, the next operator is very liable to use a dif- 
 ferent eye measurement. In consequence, the shoe coming 
 from one operator may have smooth linings through the 
 legs while that from the next operator wrinkles. 
 
 Linings are fitted with what is now generally adopted 
 as the regulation cloth seam, one-fourth inch. If a greater 
 seam allowance is required add the difference; if less, take 
 ofi the difference. 
 
 Fold a piece of paper large enough to cut both linings. 
 Lay the standard diagram 12 upon it and mark around, 
 commencing at the cross line "L," going entirely around 
 the standard, up the other side and again stop at "L." As 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 15 
 
 is understood, this pattern is for a ladies' dongola McKay- 
 sewed. So the pattern will be for a McKay lining. After 
 having marked around the standard, by means of a pair of 
 dividers, add one-eighth of an inch all around the bottom of 
 tliis, to give material equivalent for the stretch in the upper 
 obtained by lasting; and notwithstanding so much has al- 
 ready been allowed more must be added in the shank. See 
 diagram 15, "A." 
 
 While the standard is still in position, mark through 
 the lap of the vamp at the top; also at front of quarter. This 
 supplies a guide for the ending of the toe seam, as that is 
 desired to come up three-eighths of an inch back of the 
 front of the quarter, so as to match where the "closer on" 
 has stopped at the notch made in the front of the quarter. 
 
 DIAGRAM 140. 
 
 By doing this, there will be no hole left at the back of the 
 toe seam in the lining. 
 
 The majority of factories at the present time will find 
 their patterns cut on cheap work in such a manner that the 
 "closer on" runs down to about where she considers right 
 in stitching the outside on to the lining and then shoots ofif. 
 Since the toe seam of the lining generally commences at 
 the end of the quarter there is a bad hole left open at this 
 point. Likewise in a majority of factories making a finer 
 grade of goods the "closer on" stitches the outside on to 
 the lining clear down to the end of the quarter, when the 
 shoes are passed to "table girls," who rip them up a little 
 so that the linings may be turned back in vamping. This 
 also leaves a bad hole at the end of the toe seam. 
 
 Diagram 140 represents a lining running to the to|) 
 where no top facing is required. 
 
1 6 Desi^ninf^, Cuttini^, and Grading 
 
 VAMPING THROUCJH LININGS. 
 
 Vamping through linings may be considered here. 
 One can see that by this method of cutting patterns it costs 
 nothing to turn the linings back, for no table hands are 
 needed on the uppers. The patterns are cut so as to go 
 together by the edge of the lining and the outside in all 
 shoes of whatever description. An experience of years has 
 shown that it is absolutely impossible to vamp through the 
 linings of button boots and get smooth linings. Part of 
 the case may come fairly smooth, but others from the same 
 case will be wrinkled, because the vamper draws them un- 
 evenly, some not quite far enough forward, others too far. 
 The latter fault causes a tight heel lining. A shoe with a 
 tight heel lining, no matter how much time and trouble is 
 spent in lasting, will never draw well. By referring to dia- 
 gram 15, it will be noticed that the toe of the standard ends 
 at a point; therefore allow your lining to be about one- 
 eighth inch longer than the standard. Strike the top line 
 of the toe seam and have the front end of it cut a little be- 
 low the standard at the highest point back, three-eighths of 
 an inch from the front of th^ quarter, as shown in the 
 standard. Raise three-sixteenths of an inch above the 
 standard a short perpendicular, which gives the top line of 
 toe seam. See diagram 15, "A." Cut under about one- 
 eighth of an inch at the bottom, back of the lining, for al- 
 lowance for counter, from notljing to the height of two and 
 one-fourth inches. This completes the large lining. 
 
 To obtain the small lining, place the small quarter in 
 its proper position on the lining and mark around the front 
 of it, leaving one-twelfth of an inch down the front of the 
 quarter, "C," and at the bottom end of the quarter, or 
 three-eighths of an inch above. Cut up to the top to 
 match the large side of lining, "A." If no seam is. desired 
 in the toe of the lining, it would be well to cut off the three- 
 sixteenths of an inch which has been added for the seam 
 "A," and only make a notch to guide the operator in fit- 
 ting. However, the cloth is there, and it seems a great 
 waste not to toe seam and get the benefit of the strength 
 of the cloth across the vamp and ball of the foot. 
 
 GETTING THE BUTTON FLV. 
 
 The next step will be to get the button fly, or as it is 
 termed in some places, the button lap. It has been the 
 custom with many to give the fly quite a spring when cut- 
 ting the pattern in a way to make it hug closely to the shoe 
 on the scalloped edge. 
 
 Try one with no spring, having the small quarter cut 
 away according to directions, and put the buttons on the 
 shoe in just the correct positions. The result is likely to 
 be very pleasing. 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 17 
 
 To get the fly, mark round the large quarter front, top 
 and bottom. If you have no curve for fly, take about the 
 middle of the leg at the top for a start and bring down in 
 
 DIAGRAM 24. 
 
 as correct a sweep as possible, until you come almost to 
 vamp line. Then finish from bottom up. See diagram 
 24. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 CIRCULAR VAMP. 
 
 To cut a circular plain vamp, place the standard, dia- 
 gram 12, on a piece of paper, mark around the forward part 
 of it and back to the curve of back of vamp. This makes 
 ready to get out the one-half vamp. 
 
 The length of finishing the vamp at toe is to be just 
 the same as point of standard. Draw a straight line on 
 the top going one-sixteenth of an inch below at the highest 
 point on toe, "A"; also the same at end of curve of back 
 of vamp, "B." This will be equivalent for the seam that 
 will be taken ofT the large quarter. See diagram i6. 
 
 DIAGRAM 16. 
 
 Fold the paper at line "A"-"B," and cut out the half 
 vamp. This half vamp, if exactly duplicated in another 
 half, will make a whole vamp, as shown in diagram 17. 
 
 This vamp gives too much stock all around the bottom 
 where it is lasted, and the laster has much work to last it 
 in. When the shoe is finished wrinkles are likely to show 
 in the shank. The leather is drawn forward by the pincers 
 in lasting, and everything except the bottom edge of the 
 upper is stretched so as to make the shoe hug the last. 
 Consequently, the shoe shows a fullness all around the bot- 
 tom. This may be remedied by cutting the vamp, sprung 
 down, so that it touches the toe of the last rather hard at 
 first. After it is pulled over the last and fastened with the 
 usual toe tacks, the next pulls on the sides of the ball bring 
 the stock over the sole, leaving less to be "worked in." 
 The best method for cutting the vamp is as follows: — 
 
 Place diagram 16, after it has been cut out, on a piece 
 of paper large enough to cut a vamp. Mark around it, 
 and instead of folding the paper on the top straight line, 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 19 
 
 "A-B," drop the front of the line, say one-half inch to "C- 
 D." Score the paper so it will fold there; then fill out the 
 
 DIAGRAM 17. 
 
 toe at E by placing diagram 16 on the folded line. This 
 will give sufficient stock to last well. In diagram 18 this 
 
 DIAGRAM 18. 
 
 method is illustrated. This one point has a great deal to 
 do with the draught of a shoe. Observe that the wedge- 
 
20 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 shaped piece, "W" "W," is cut from the toe, effecting a 
 saving in stock, besides preventing shank wrinkles. Of 
 course this lias a tendency to throw up the back of the 
 vamp from the last and foot, and if second lasting is omit- 
 ted this is likely to show some in the finished shoe. In 
 that case the production will be of such a cheap character 
 that it will probably make no difference. It does prevent 
 the vamp and quarter lap seam from pressing hard upon 
 the foot. 
 
 Referrinsr to diagram i8, notice how the corners 
 are rounded off at "R." This is for a double purpose. In 
 the first place, the cutter will go around the corners with- 
 out stopping. One must always cut by, or over, or beyond, 
 a corner to cut it clear. Cutting bevond wastes stock, 
 
 DIAGRAM 20. 
 
 while the round corner does no injury, as the bottom of the 
 vamp laps on to the quarter sufficiently to cover it. 
 
 Diagram 20 shows the same vamp as shown in dia- 
 gram 18, three-sixteenths, on the back for beading or fold- 
 ing, dotted line "B B B B." It is rounded still more than 
 diagram 18, but when the vamp is folded and ready to be 
 stitched on to the quarter, there will be just about five-six- 
 teenths of an inch left on the round, so it will do no harm, as 
 the lap seam of quarter will cover it. There is a saving in 
 the amount of leather when cutting vamps as shown in di- 
 agram 20 over that shown in diagram 17. The upper 
 draws much better on account of the toe being sprung 
 down. The foreman who has a fair fund of common sense 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 21 
 
 and is at all mechanically inclined, will have no trouble 
 folding the vamp so it will be easy for the vamper to guide 
 it in lap, as dotted line shows where to commence and fin- 
 ish at the rounded corners. This is essential, as, if the op- 
 erators on the skiving and folding machines are not prop- 
 erly instructed, they are apt to skive and fold around the 
 place cut round to save stock, and this would not leave a 
 point for vamper. 
 
 ROUNDINI'. OFF CORNKRS. 
 
 Shoes are produced now with so little per pair profit 
 to the average manufacturer that any little point of saving 
 
 DIAGRAM 21 
 
 is really worth while. Look at diagram 21; notice the two 
 bottom corners of the quarters. This idea is in practice 
 in a large factory producing ladies' shoes. The manufac- 
 turer stated that it saves a good deal in a year, both in 
 stock and time of cutting, for the cutter does not have to 
 stop at the corners. Not having so much to turn in, it 
 is easier to last at the heel seat. Numerous tests proved 
 that the manufacturer was right. 
 
 At "A," diagram 22, the bottom of the quarter is 
 rounded of? to save stock. It also acts as a guide for the 
 stitcher. This may represent either plain or beaded fox- 
 ing. 
 
22 
 
 Designing, Cuttins;, and Grading 
 
 Diagram 23 represents a foxing rounded at the low- 
 er corners to save stock, showing by dotted line, "A," the 
 allowance for beading or folding. It is cut ofif at "C" di- 
 
 DIAGRAM 22. 
 
 agonally to prevent a lump forming in folding. 
 
 that is necessary should be done in the cutting room when 
 
 All cutting 
 
 DIAGRAM 23. 
 
 the shoes are cut, so that the operator in the stitching 
 
 room will not have occasion to use scissors and judgment. 
 
 The parts attending the folding of the foxing, closing 
 
 of the front and back seams, putting the foxings on and 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 23 
 
 staying the shoes, sliould receive close attention. A gauge 
 should be permanently attached to the machine for guid- 
 ing the work as to the depth of seams. It will hardly be 
 necessary to say that the smaller the seam taken the less 
 lump there will be. The operator should not be allowed 
 to trim with hand shears. Of course, if the seam is rubbed 
 a little previous to staying, it does no harm. A good many 
 manufacturers, however, allow the foot of the staying ma- 
 chine to do all the rubbing. 
 
 Close the back and front seams of the quarters. Also 
 fold the foxings and close the back seam. Next stitch fox- 
 ings on the quarters, after which stay the quarter down the 
 back through foxings and quarter all at one operation. 
 This prevents a double thickness of staying where the fox- 
 
 DIAGRAM 25. 
 
 ing is lapped on, and really strengthens the shoe at the 
 back seam, the stay being in one piece. 
 
 There has been a good deal of complaint about the 
 stitching of the edge of the foxings unless they are first 
 cemented on. This is not necessary if the machine is 
 properly adjusted. Use a sharp feed, relieving the strain 
 on the presser foot. 
 
 Referring back again to diagrams 17, 18, 19, 20, cut 
 vamps each way and test the saving of stock. When 
 cutting vamps after diagrams 18 and 19, throw the wings of 
 the vamp out towards the centre of the skin at every op- 
 portunity, for the wings, or the toe of the vamp, or any 
 
24 
 
 Desiarning, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 corner of a quarter, will turn and cut almost clean the 
 stock left from the throat of the vamp. 
 
 After getting out the fly, prick through at "A," "B," 
 corresponding with the lines, "L," "H," diagram 12, for 
 the purpose of having the same point at that place for 
 width of top facing and height of lining and "C." Point 
 ofif where the bottom of the first scallop will come as place 
 to finish the bottom of top facing, so that lower edge of it 
 will come at the juncture of the first two scallops, thus 
 preventing it from ever coming into the button-hole. Use 
 this fly to mark around for the fly lining, which in this case 
 is cut solid from leather, as illustrated in diagram 25. 
 
 Dotted line "A" represents the mark around the front 
 of the fly. This fly being solid leather, is set back about 
 three-sixteenths of an inch on the cloth lining, as illustrat- 
 ed in diagram 26. 
 
 DIAGRAM 26. 
 
 In taking the regulation one-fourth inch seam in the 
 cloth lining, the leather fly lining being so set back, only 
 requires one-sixteenth inch seam. Take the three-six- 
 teenths inch from the sheep fly lining pattern, so that 
 the curves will come right. This gives line "B," diagram 25. 
 Then cut away the bottom at "D" so as to give the opera- 
 tor a guide in fitting the shoe (see "D," diagram 26), and to 
 allow the lining to be thrown back in vamping without any 
 hand shearing. Slip the fly back until the front strikes 
 the line "B," diagram 25, so as to get width at "F E," and 
 mark around as dotted line, "F F." Add one-sixteenth 
 inch, as per line "E E." Measuring from the bottom by 
 means of the fly around the line "F F," it will be found 
 that top dotted line "A" which had been laid out runs too 
 far up and would make the lining too long at that place. 
 Prick through diagram 24 at "D." This gives line "P," 
 diagram 25, the correct one. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 BUTTON KLV AND TOP FACING. 
 
 In diagram 27 is made a fly lining, the front part of 
 /hich is cut from cloth and the button hole piece from 
 
 DIAGRAM 27 
 
 DIAGRAM 30. 
 
 sheep. This cloth "snipe" is closed on to the leather at 
 seam "A," dotted line "B" showing the lap, and, being 
 
 DIAGRAM 28. 
 
 cloth, is stitched on evenly at the front edge of the cloth 
 lining; but when the stitch reaches the intersection of the 
 
26 
 
 Desiafnin*'-, Cuttino;, and Grading 
 
 cloth and leather at the bottom "D," it will take but one- 
 sixteenth off from the leather at that point. 
 
 With either of the above By linings use top facings, as 
 shown in diagrams 28 and 29. 
 
 Diagram 28 shows the top of the large quarter and the 
 top of the button fly laid out with the necessary spring be- 
 tween fly and quarter at "A" to do away with the surplus 
 
 DIAGRAM 32. 
 
 lining or fullness that is sometimes seen. This top facing 
 is cut to be seamed at the back, as by this means it will cut 
 cheaper. At the bottom of the back of the facing (see 
 "B") it is cut under enough to match the one-fourth inch 
 seam in the lining and will absolutely prevent a wrinkle in 
 the lining at this place. 
 
 Diagram 29 shows the top facing for the small quarter 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 27 
 
 and it is shown so plainly that further explanation is not 
 necessary'. 
 
 Diagram 30 represents a full all leather fly lining. A 
 very few words will explain it. Dotted line represents 
 the edge of the cloth lining, and the top facing is 
 supposed to be stitched on. At "A," diagram 30, swing 
 out on fly lining so that in taking the one-sixteenth inch 
 seam it will reach the end edge of the top facing at "A," 
 causing no lump at that point, giving sufficient room to 
 stitch around the edge on to the quarter. In using whole 
 leather fly lining as shown in diagram 30, it will be necessa- 
 ry to use top facing as shown in diagram 31. 
 
 A still different style of fly lining is shown in diagram 
 32, where a sheep button hole piece runs clear to the top 
 
 DIAGRAM 33. 
 
 of the fly. The "snipe" of cloth is placed even with the 
 front of the cloth lining. The diagram shows the style so 
 plainly that further words seem unnecessary. With a fly 
 lining of this design it will be necessary to get out top fac- 
 ing patterns, according to diagrams 29 and 33. 
 
 A POPULAR FilXING. 
 
 In diagram 34 is shown another foxing popular at this 
 time. The way of cutting at "A" is presented to assist the 
 operator m folding it. The dotted line shows the finished 
 
 DIAGRAM 34. 
 
 edge after folding. In getting this or any other foxing, 
 get out a standard similar to diagram 12, except in so far 
 as changes are made in dissection. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 WHOLE-FOXED OR SEAMLESS VAMPS, CLOTH QUARTERS AND 
 KLY LININf;S. 
 
 For whole-foxed or seamless vamps cut standard 
 from diagram 12, except in dissection, and number it 
 diagram 35. Use diagram 12 to get the front of 
 quarter and back of vamp, for by so doing the lining, trim- 
 mings and button fly can be used as in diagram 12. 
 
 DIAGRAM 35. 
 
 Decide the back of vamp at "A," diagram 35, and draw 
 vamp lino "A," "A," allowing the usual distance for lap of 
 quarter. Then draw dotted line "B," "B." Cut through 
 on both lines and take out the piece representmg the lap. 
 
 Mark around the standard diagram 35 and find it in 
 diagram 36, on w^hich draw the line to fold, "A" "A," 
 striking the back line of vamp one-sixteenth inch under the 
 standard line and about on line with the toe of standard. 
 End the vamp the same length at toe as the standard. If the 
 cost of the vamp in cutting were not a factor to be consid- 
 ered, it would be well to drop the toe down at least three- 
 eighths inch, so as to take a gore out of the toe of the vamps. 
 This would reduce the amount of stock around the bottom 
 ol the last, but throw the heels of the vamp so as to cost too 
 much to cut. 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 29 
 
 Some do this and say they can get tongues or button 
 flies out of the centre. But the stock that can be cut into 
 
 DIAGRAM 36. 
 
 a vamp is generally the best of the skin, too vahiable to be 
 used in either tongues or flies. This vamp, if cut whole, 
 is generally put on the shoe by a cylinder machine, and 
 when stretched by bead and presser foot, would be too 
 long. Cut it off at the rear from one-eighth to three-six- 
 teenths inch, as seen at "E." The dotted line "D" "D" rep- 
 
 DIAGRAM 37. 
 
 resents the vamp as it will be after the folding at line "F" 
 "F" is taken off. The dotted line "H" shows where the 
 vamp is divided into front vamp and foxing. The foxing 
 in this case is generally closed on, and afterwards stayed 
 with a double needle machine, the same as the front and 
 back of the quarters. If desired, the vamp can be cut so as 
 to lap on the foxings, in which case the shoes can be 
 vamped on a flat bed machine, the same as a circular vamp. 
 It is as well also, when cutting this whole vamp pat- 
 
^o 
 
 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 tern to allow a little extra at the shank, as shown at "K," 
 diagram 36. 
 
 Of course, the quarters of this shoe are got from the 
 standard diagram 35, as in the circular vamp, except if in- 
 tending to use the linings of diagram 12, use the small 
 
 DIAGRAM 38. 
 
 quarter obtained from that to cut of? an equal amount on 
 the small quarter of diagram ^y. 
 
 Now cut and fit a cloth top shoe foxed as shown in 
 diagram 23. Use the vamp and linings taken from dia- 
 
 DIAGRAM 39. 
 
 gram 12. Here will be shown the advantage of a large 
 and small lining pattern. A cloth top is fitted easiest when 
 the lining is fitted "snug," the top facing cut from sheejiwhen 
 possible and the fly lining cut solid from leather and seal- 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 31 
 
 loped. This reverses the general way of fitting a leather 
 shoe, and uses the lining of top to fit from, in which case 
 it will be necessary also to have the top facing cut the 
 proper shape, not allowing anything on it for beading as 
 shown in diagram 38. 
 
 CLOTH QUARTERS. 
 
 To get the cloth quarters, mark around diagram 13. 
 laying ofT foxing from standard diagram 12. See dia- 
 gram 39. 
 
 Dotted lines show where the leather quarters in dia- 
 gram 13 come. Since one-fourth inch seam is considered 
 
 DIAGRAM 40. 
 
 DIAGRAM 41. 
 
 best for cloth, and since one-twelfth inch, has a'ready been 
 allowed in leather standard diagram, add a little over one- 
 eighth incii here with the dividers. 
 
 When fitting this cloth top shoe, use the same linings 
 used in the leather top. So figure that the inside of the 
 shoe will be the same as the leather shoe. 
 
 Where it is possible, use a whole button fly lining, 
 when fitting the shoe from the lining. 
 
 No matter where the fitting commences, whether on 
 the small quarter or at end of button fly, place the lining 
 about one-eighth of an inch from the edge of the cloth out- 
 side, for the small quarter has a guide to place at the end of 
 
32 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 the lining at the back of the toe seam. Keep the lining one- 
 eighth of an inch from the edge all the way round the shoe. 
 This will give one-eighth of an inch of cloth not trimmed 
 away so the cloth will not fray out in beading. 
 
 FLY LININGS. 
 
 To get the fly lining use the leather fly. See dotted line, 
 diagram 40, which is the line of the front of the fly, but as 
 this fly lining is of leather, it should be set back on the 
 cloth lining three-sixteenths of an inch, it is cut away from 
 nothing at the top to about three-sixteenths as it runs 
 down. The notch shown at A is to allow the lining to be 
 thrown back in vamping without using hand shears. 
 
 Notice that the tops of the cloth quarters, diagram 39, 
 are cut straight from one high point to the other. This 
 costs no more than to cut down to the curve, and is less 
 trouble to cut. It also aids to hold the cloth firmer while 
 being closed on. 
 
 Diagram 41 shows the cloth fly with the fly lining lined 
 inside (see lines "A," "A," "A," "A," "A,") and the front of 
 the top facing and cloth lining dotted in (see dotted line B) 
 and also the outside line having the line of the cloth fly. 
 The fly lining is scalloped. 
 
 This describes the proper fitting of cloth that has not 
 been "backed up." Cloth that is "backed up" may be cut 
 from the leather patterns and fitted as leather shoes are. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 WOMAX'S DONGOLA BEADED VAMP GVPSV BUTTON BOOT. 
 
 Next cut a woman's dongola beaded vamp gipsy but- 
 ton boot. To save time use diagram 12, and by marking 
 around it get diagram 42. 
 
 DIAGRAM 42. 
 
 It will be apparent to any one why the toe is fin- 
 ished to a point. It is easier to last, as there is less leather 
 to hst in than if cut straight. 
 
 Use the small quarter made for leather, and the same 
 linings and facings. In equipping a factory, this will 
 reduce the number of patterns. Of course, while 
 saying this, it must be understood that there must be pat- 
 terns for different styles of lasts, but use the same general 
 standard, provided the shoe to be cut is to be put on the 
 same last. In this day of progress, it probably is useless to 
 discuss the old method of trying to make one set of patterns 
 fit many different styles of lasts. This is all wrong 
 unless the body part of the lasts are similar, and differ 
 only from balls forward. 
 
 Some factories use the same set of patterns for all the 
 different styles of lasts. In one of these, the proprietor 
 stated that it cost him 24 cents a pair for fitting button 
 boots. With that system it will never cost less in 
 that factory, and the work is d:?ne poorly at tnat. 
 In this factory six pairs of button boots have been 
 
34 
 
 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 ripped apart and revamped in one day. This manufacturer 
 is a man of large experience in the business, and not long 
 ago wanted the vampers to vamp his shoes without first 
 sewing, or tacking, as they call it, the bottom ends of the 
 quarters, and the operatives said it could not be done and 
 would not try it. 
 
 Another factory turning out women's fine shoes had 
 no patterns for cloth shoes, but cut them by "sliding" the 
 leather patterns. The same factory cut all widths shoes, 
 and never had anything but "A," "C," "E," patterns in 
 width. Is it economy? 
 
 DIAGRAM 43. 
 
 If a factory has many styles of lasts and patterns and 
 a wave or a certain curve top is used on many of them, 
 why not, if the top of one set of patterns is correct as to 
 height, and width, hold to that as a standard in getting out 
 other, or new styles, whether they are the same style last 
 or another? By this method the same patterns can be 
 used for top facings, and not only save confusion and lia- 
 bility of wrong cutting, but expense in patterns. If a few 
 top facings be cut wrong by mistake, they nmy be used on 
 the next case of shoes calling for the same style top. 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 oO 
 
 Before concluding this work some methods of mark- 
 ing and numbering patterns and lasts as adopted by suc- 
 cessful manufacturers will be illustrated. 
 
 To get button fly for diagram 42, use the button fly 
 diagram 30, and for back of vamp use diagram 12, which 
 gives diagram 43. 
 
 For a half vamp button as shown in diagram 44, use 
 standard as per diagram 12 to mark around and get outline, 
 (see diagram 44) and back of vamp, (see toe of standard 
 "A"). At B back line of vamp is shown, dotted line "C" 
 representing the front curve of small quarter under the 
 vamp. Small quarter is shown all the way up front by 
 dotted lines which will be recognized at once. Dotted line 
 
 DIAGRAM 44. 
 
 "D" represents the line of vamp as it will be after the edge 
 is folded. Use the small quarter linings and trimmings 
 from diagram 12. 
 
 As to button shoes with whole or seamless vamps. If 
 the buttons are put a little too far down from their proper 
 positions, they will cause the vamp to rise up out of a 
 straight line just below where the quarters strike the last 
 at the instep. The trouble arises where a large seam is 
 used in first closing, and the buttons put on a little too 
 low, and may be remedied by adding a little to the stand- 
 ard along on top the instep line. Common sense must 
 be used with all systems, and since conditions vary, an 
 expert must be willing to vary. Just so in the dropping 
 of the toe of the vamp. Conditions and results must gov- 
 ern without regard to theory. But putting the buttons 
 
36 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 on in their correct positions is a positive rule, and safe to 
 be relied on under all conditions. 
 
 A few words about beading. After the shoe is "first 
 closed," "stayed" and the outside is "closed on" to the lin- 
 ings, observe the following words about "second closing" 
 on the scallops: 
 
 In the first place in a good many factories the scallop- 
 ing is done so poorly that it is almost no guide for the 
 "closer on." The shape entirely depends on her skill. In 
 such factories, if the operator has learned, when first start- 
 ing at that branch, to swing the shoe in a steady, even curve 
 as it is stitched and trimmed at the same time, and to make 
 a very sudden sharp turn at the bottom of the scallop she 
 will get nice round scallops, as shown in diagram 45, in- 
 
 DIAGRAMS 45, 46, 47. 
 
 stead of a sort of round (see diagram 46 as to the dififer- 
 ence) bottom or end of scallops. But how often are seen 
 cases of shoes with the scallops all "saw tooth," like dia- 
 gram 47, caused entirely by the closer on swinging the 
 shoe much more rapidly on one side of the scallops than 
 the other while the sewing machine is stitching and trim- 
 
 There is but one remedy. Get another "closer on," 
 for the one who has become accustomed to swing the shoe 
 in a wrong manner rarely unlearns, and almost never learns 
 to do it correctly. Scalloping is done too carelessly and 
 has been done so for many years. 
 
 Provided the scallops have not been thrown all out of 
 shape in closing on, it is an easy matter to bead, or turn 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 37 
 
 and cord the edges. This beading, done on a machine, and 
 the machine in good order, is an easy operation compared 
 to the old hand^iiring process where tl.c work was accom- 
 plished by main force, and then pounded by hammers. The 
 great trouble with beading machines is they are not kept 
 in good order. The same attention is not paid to them 
 tiiat there is to the stitching machines. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 THE SIDE LACE SHOE AND CLIMAX BUTTON BOOT. 
 
 A "side-lace" shoe is undoubtedly one of the neatest 
 shoes ever worn by a lady, for there are no buttons or 
 lumps of any kind showing on the sides, and on a well- 
 shaped foot, made on a proper last, gives a splendid 
 appearance. 
 
 Here is where the trouble comes in this shoe. The last 
 must be very nearly correct in form, for there are no but- 
 tons to set over, and if the lacing is left open to fit the foot, 
 and the last is not correct, the front seam is crooked, and the 
 peculiar beauty of this shoe is lost. This is the shoe that 
 
 DIAGRAM 48. 
 
 shows up a bad shaped last. This is the shoe that demands a 
 well-shaped foot. Try some of your lasts with a side-lace 
 boot if you are at all in doubt of their being correct. It is 
 well to try women's, misses' and children's this way to see 
 the actual fit oi the last on the foot. The side-lace never 
 fails to show up defects back of the ball. 
 
 However, this being a nice shoe on the foot, it is a pe- 
 culiar one for which to cut the pattern. If not cut right it 
 is difficult to fit, and if cut right it is one of the easiest. 
 
 Mark around a standard, obtained as directions were 
 given for diagram 12, and call it diagram 48. First get the 
 large side as shown in diagram 48. Then draw the lace 
 line, "A" "A," being particular to have it come well for- 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 39 
 
 ward at the bottom. This will allow the shoe to go on the 
 foot easily. Mark where the back quarter laps under the 
 front quarter at B. Get out a quarter for front and another 
 for back, punching stab holes at lap B as a guide for the 
 vamper. Lay off the top of the lining position as "L," 
 then the bottom of the facing as "H." 
 
 KRONT AND BACK QUARTERS. 
 
 In getting out the front and back quarters, add on the 
 bottom as shown in diagram 49, front quarter, and diagram 
 50, back quarter, in both of which dotted lines "A" "A" 
 
 DIAGRAM 49. 
 
 show the bottom line of the large sides as taken from the 
 standard. B B shows the addition for allowance for the in- 
 side shank to make it last easier. The allowance is also 
 shown in diagram 48 at bottom. 
 
 Next, mark around diagram 48 from L to L to get lin- 
 ing, and add one-eighth of an inch all around the bottom; 
 in the shank put a little more (see diagram 51) and take ofT 
 if for McKay or welt for counter as B. Put on front quar- 
 ter (diagram 49) evenly all around front and toe, and mark 
 round the back of it, which leaves dotted line "C," after 
 
40 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 which cut out a piece from the Hning •^hree-sixteenths each 
 way from dotted line "C." See Hne "D D." 
 
 DIAGRAM 50. 
 
 One piece of pattern will do for both sides of the lin- 
 ings for the shoe, as one is cut without the hole, and the 
 
 DIAGRAM 51. 
 
 other with. Next get side facing, which is so simple an op- 
 eration that diagram 52 only need be shown. 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 41 
 
 In fitting place it on tlie lining with the hole in the cen- 
 tre line in the centre and stitch it on as shown in diagram 
 
 DIAGRAM 52. 
 
 53. Close the two linings (drill) back and front, after which 
 with a pair of scissors cut the top and bottom open at H 
 
 DIAGRAM 53. 
 
 when the linings are ready for the top facings. To get the 
 top facing mark around standard diagram 48 from H to H, 
 
4- 
 
 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 which is shown by hues "A A" on diagram 54, pointing off 
 at "H H," diagram 48, for width of facing. Then from 
 one-sixteenth of an inch at top. B B, diagram 54, cut under 
 until at the bottoms, "C C," it is one-fourth of an inch, 
 which will fit the lining seams at the front and back. Use 
 front and back quarters to get the ends D E, as shown in 
 diagram 53. 
 
 DIAGRAM 54. 
 
 Then stitch the top facing on the lining, after which 
 the lining is closed on by the edges of the outside, com- 
 mencing at the bottom of the side stay at one side, and so 
 keep up stitching till clear around the upper. 
 
 "climax" button boot. 
 
 Ne.xt take a very peculiar button boot. Commence 
 by marking around standard, diagram 12, and down the 
 front of the quarter, so that the same vamp may fit, using 
 
 DIAGRAM 55. 
 
 the same lining patterns as well as trimming patterns. 
 This boot, known as the "Climax," is generally cut from 
 heavy stock, such as grain leather. The vamp is used 
 plain, — not beaded. This gives the quarter by drawing a 
 straight line as indicated by dotted line "A." Fold the pa- 
 per and cut out the quarters, as illustrated in diagram 55, 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 43 
 
 with folded line dotted at "A." While the paper is folded, 
 cut at "B," shown as gore, in diagram 56. 
 
 If the shoe is not a familiar one it may be better under- 
 stood b}' placing diagram 55 on standard diagram 12 and 
 then placing the gore piece, diagram 56, folded where it is 
 
 DIAGRAM 56. 
 
 shown on diagram 12. The stab holes, C C C C, diagram 
 56, are to be pierced so that in fitting they are placed to 
 ooints E E E E, diagram 55, as the correct spring is so 
 given to gore diagram 56. After getting the outside fitted, 
 close the lining on, and complete as any button boot. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 WOMAN S LEATHER CONGRESS. 
 
 Next take a woman's leather congress. Mark around 
 standard, diagram 12, and get outline, after which mark 
 gore, as illustrated in diagram 57. Also line "A" where 
 the shoe is divided into front and back quarters, "B," "C." 
 Of course common sense would teach that the lower the 
 bottom of the goring, the easier the shoe will go on the 
 foot, but again, if it is too low the shoe will yield at that 
 point when being worn. 
 
 However, we will dissect the standard and get front 
 quarter, diagram 58. Dotted line "A" shows the allow- 
 
 DIAGRAM 57. 
 
 ance for folding, three-sixteenths of an inch. It may be 
 beaded on top if desired. 
 
 Diagram 59 shows the back quarter and the lap is 
 shown at B, dotted line, while dotted line "C" shows the 
 folded edge. In getting out a congress of any kind, width 
 of goring must be one of the first considerations, (diagram 
 60), for after laying off the bottom of the goring, the 
 height of top of shoe is governed more or less by the width 
 of gore to be used. 
 
 This congress is simple. One can see that to make it 
 in cloth, or serge, it is only necessary to add the difference 
 in seams. The linings can almost be cut from the outsides, 
 but would come a little short on the bottom and would be 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 45 
 
 full on the heel where the^counter comes. Diagram 6o 
 shows the srore. 
 
 DIAGRAM 53. 
 
 DIAGRAM 59. 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 BUTTON BOOT WITH ROLLED TOP. 
 
 To illustrate a button boot, with a straight top rolled 
 over inside. See diagram 6i. 
 
 Mark around a standard, say. in this instance diagrarn 
 12, as will be seen by the lines. Dotted line A A, is the top 
 of diagram 12. 
 
 To make a roll top, it will, of course, be necessary to 
 allow about one-fourth of an inch higher, as the shoe to be 
 finished will need to be 6 inches high at the back, finished, 
 from the vamp up, to look well. Add to line B B, cutting 
 off diagonally at "C C"; that part is to roll over inside, con- 
 sequently it should not be so long. 
 
 DIAGRAM 6L 
 
 Roll the top from nothing at the comer of the small 
 quarter at D, diagram 61, until it gradually turns about 
 three-sixteens of an inch at E, (diagrams 61 and 62), and 
 then make an even roll until reaching the button fly at "A," 
 diagram 61, gradually nmning to an even bead at B, as 
 shown in diagram 62. 
 
 This method also allows an even bead up the front of 
 the small quarter, as illustrated in diagram 63, until reach- 
 ing '"A"; when it reaches B, diagram 63, it is full roll. This 
 method is adopted because the lining can be closed on to 
 the outside at one continuous operation of stitching. 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 47 
 
 DIAGRAM 62. 
 
 DIAGRAM 63. 
 
48 
 
 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 Therefore the "closing on" will be no more expensive than 
 the regular evenly beaded shoe. After being closed on the 
 work of beading is no more than a regular even bead; but 
 the header can do a much better job at this shoe if she will 
 work with the linings toward her, for then she can see how 
 the beading is being done. 
 
 By referring to diagram 6i, it is easy to follow the line 
 of rolling on the whole or large quarter, then on the small 
 quarter, and on the button fly. 
 
 It will be noticed at P, diagram 6i, that the end of the 
 large quarter and fly lining to match, are dropped, or slightly 
 
 DIAGRAM 64. 
 
 cut under. This is where they go under the vamp, and it will 
 be found that there is plenty of stock still remaining, 
 Springing the fly, if one chooses, may be done. It will cer- 
 tainly cut as cheaply by straightening that way, and no ob- 
 jections to it appear, except it may cause more wrinkles 
 at the throat of the shoe. Diagram 64 will show very clear- 
 ly the respective tops of large quarter and fly as to roll top. 
 Referring again to diagram 62, the heavy line all 
 round is the button fly proper, while the dotted line is the 
 fly lining, setting back on the cloth lining in front at C C, 
 and coming out flush with the top face lining at D. 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 49 
 
 While on this point it is proper to say that it is prefer- 
 able to use a solid sheep, or napa, fly Hning, on roll tops, 
 though of course by educating the help one can get results 
 in most unexpected cases. At a large factory making wo- 
 men's shoes a specialty in the State of Maine all kinds of 
 shaped tops on button boots are rolled successfully, even 
 where one would suppose it was practically impossible. 
 But the foreman of the fitting room was a man who did not 
 know the word "can't" in his department. He simply in- 
 sisted on good work and finally his help had become ex- 
 perts at roll tops. They make a very neat finish. 
 
 DIAGRAM 65. 
 
 Referring again to diagram 61, see at L and H, where 
 the lines are drawn. This gives the height of or top edge of 
 the lining and the bottom of the facing, obtained by mark- 
 ing round the standard and diagram 61. Recollect that 
 the top of the outside rolls down so the top facing will be 
 cut three-eighths of an inch narrower than it shows drawn 
 round the top of standard diagram 61, one-fourth of an inch 
 for allowance and one-eighth of an inch for allowance to 
 where it is seamed on quarter. 
 
 The top of standard as shown on diagram 65 is marked 
 A A A A, and the front B. The fold of top is dotted line 
 "C C." The top of facing is D D. 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 FRONT LACE SHOES. 
 
 Front lace shoes come next and of course it is best to 
 take a dongola McKay, say a 4 C. Mark around standard, 
 diagram 12, which will give the lines of a button boot. 
 Then starting at the back of the vamp, as shown in diagram 
 66, begin to cut away the front, so that it may be open 
 slightly when lasted, and when it is first put on the foot, 
 since it must be made to accommodate the foot with a low 
 instep, as well as to fit a high instep, by leaving it more or 
 less open at the lacing. The shoe will also stretch after 
 wearing a few times so it will draw closer together at the 
 
 DIAGRAM 66. 
 
 lacing; but the amount to cut away must be determined by 
 pattern cutter. There are various opinions and no fixed rule 
 can be given. Attention is directed to the fact that it is 
 cut away on the quarters gradually from the back of the 
 vamp up to the top. Often the fitter who laces them to- 
 gether with cord of some kind, previous to their being 
 lasted, draws them so closely together that they cannot 
 separate sufficiently while being lasted, to find their normal 
 condition. Thus fastened a shoe cannot be properly lasted. 
 The laster is then held responsible, where the whole trouble 
 is in lacing. Shoes coming to the laster with the buttons 
 on correctly, or laced correctly, are a pleasure to last, pro- 
 vided the pattern is cut right. It is asking too much of the 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 5 1 
 
 laster to try to remedy a fault caused by some one who 
 handles the shoe before it reaches him. There would be 
 less trouble between the last'ers and their employers if these 
 
 DIAGRAM 67. 
 
 two faults, unnecessary themselves, were avoided, and they 
 could be avoided entirely by proper attention to those two 
 important points. 
 
 Dotted line "A," diagram 66, shows the front line of 
 button boot, and line L shows top edge of lining, while H 
 
 DIAGRAM 68. 
 
 shows bottom of top facing. The dotted line B shows the 
 curve top of standard button boot. This lace we will make 
 roll top and also straight top. For the lining, see diagram 
 
52 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 67, and so far as the bottom and back line are considered, 
 they resemble the lines of the lining of the button boot. In 
 front the line "A" shows the front edge of the front facing, 
 which is the same line as the front of standard diagram 66. 
 However, observe it is cut away about one-eighth of an 
 inch from near the bottom end of the quarter at B until 
 near the top, C, so the lining will not have to be cut away 
 with the hand shears after the front facing is stitched on. 
 There are two guides, one at the top and the other at the 
 bottom, to place the front facing correctly. The toe seam 
 runs about one-eighth of an inch above the end of 
 
 DIAGRAM 70. 
 
 the quarter. Notice the slit, E, at the lower end of 
 the front facing, see diagram 68. In stitching the 
 front facing on the lining the stitch should run ofif 
 at E and the part marked X not stitched through 
 but left loose. This will enable the operator to "close on" 
 the shoe, and the vamper to throw back the lining without 
 the necessity of its going to the "table girl" to be cut in 
 with the hand shears,and is a neater and less expensive way 
 The linings are closed at the back ready for the top facing. 
 See diagram 69, in which dotted line "A" shows the top of 
 facing line; "B" shows where the quarter is folded and line 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 :)3 
 
 "C" shows the top line of quarter. It is best to 
 allow a little extra on the front end so it will not 
 run short. After closing the quarters on either a 
 button boot or lace that rolls inside at the top, be 
 sure and stop off the cloth stay on the double needle ma- 
 chine some three-eighths of an inch from the top, or it will 
 make a bunch where it is turned over. When staying all 
 roll top work, the operator should commence at the bottom 
 of the quarters, as it is easy to cut it off near the top. To 
 get out the quarter to be folded down the front, see diagram 
 70, the dotted line "A" representing the fold, where it is to 
 
 DIAGRAM 71. 
 
 roll over, and dotted line B the front line to where it will be 
 finished after the front folding is done. Care should be 
 taken to first close up to the corner "C" and then swing so 
 as to follow the break at that point, as the quarters should 
 be closed clear to the edge, but on a line with the outside. 
 This quarter is not cut for an outside stay or facing, but the 
 one in diagram 71 is a duplicate of diagram 70, ex- 
 cept it has no fold in front. After leaving guides A A by 
 which to place front facing on correctly, it is cut away so as 
 to reduce the thickness in front, instead of cutting the 
 quarter full down the front edge and then putting on the 
 
54 
 
 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 facing by the edge all the way down and having 
 a "table girl" cut this away with hand shears. It 
 is best not to use a trimming knife on the ma- 
 chine for this purpose, as rt allows the operator 
 to cut away material which is needed. The cutting 
 of it away in the pattern saves hand labor, as a cutter 
 will cut just as many quarters in an hour this way as he will 
 
 DIAGRAM 72. 
 
 in the full pattern, and then the surplus stock instead of be- 
 ing on the floor, where the table girl has cut it off, is in the 
 skin to be cut into something else. Diagram 72 shows the 
 facing cut so as to be plain edge. If fold is wanted simply 
 add it, and then fold the edge before putting the facing on 
 the quarter. 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 CLOTH QUARTERS AND WELT SHOES. 
 
 Diagram "]■>, represents a cloth quarter cut for a foxing, 
 and on it is shown a patent leather front facing with the 
 fold on. Of course this facing should be folded before be- 
 ing placed in its present position. Dotted line "A" re- 
 presents the front of the cloth quarter as well as dotted line 
 A A all around. Dotted line " V> " represents the front of 
 fold on facing before it is folded. Line "C" is the front of 
 
 DIAGRAM 73. 
 
 facing when finished. Line "D" is back of facing. Line E 
 at the bottom shows where the foxing edge will be. 
 
 After closing on the top it goes to the header. Steady, 
 or non-movable, iron or fingers or no irons are far better 
 than vibrating ones for all straight work. After an operator 
 becomes accustomed to it, she can do more and better work 
 on a flat anvil with no irons for turning, for she can roll 
 the necessary amount by manipulating the outside or lining 
 with her fingers. Turning irons are suitable where punch- 
 
56 
 
 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 ing out is required, and on crooked work, but they are of no 
 use on straiglit work. Do not use any cement or paste or 
 otJTcr adhesive substance in turning or beading. Simply 
 turn, and the gauge f(>r-aniount of I'oll is given by trying the 
 curves of the front facings where they are to be stitclied to 
 the outside. Do not allow the operators to cement 
 the outside quarters to the linings along the front 
 stay, or facing. Use no cement, paste or glue here. 
 The operator who stitches the outside to the facing 
 can hold them correctly at no extra expense or trouble, and 
 if the patterns are cut correctly, there is no use of "fitting" 
 them by "table girls." That expense will thus be saved, 
 and the shoe is not hardened at that place. If the shoe has 
 no beaded front, the trimming knife can be used up the 
 fronts when closing on, but if it be folded, or have a folded 
 outside facing on, it must be stitched and the lining front 
 
 DIAGRAM 74. 
 
 facing be left extended a little, and afterwards sheared off. 
 In women's shoes where too soft material for inside front 
 facings is used, there is no way except to let the shoes go to 
 table girls, who trim out the inside facing with hand shears. 
 The shoe is now ready to be vamped after the eyelets are 
 put in. 
 
 By cutting the patterns according to this direction, it 
 will be found, when you come to vamping, that the lining 
 is ready to be thrown back and no hand shear work. After 
 vamping close the toe seam of the linings in a lap seam, and 
 then stitch (on the machine) across the lower end of the 
 tongue, a little below the end of the quarters. This serves 
 to reduce the lump at the point of juncture of so many 
 thicknesses. Tlien tack clear througii both quarters and 
 the tongue, which will hold the tongue in proper position, 
 while the strain, if any, will come, if the tongue is pulled up, 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 57 
 
 on the end of the tongue where it is stitched fast to the 
 lining. 
 
 The getting out of a misses' shoe of any kind is so 
 similar to woman's that it does not seem necessary to 
 dwell upon it. Of course the ball measure of the last gov- 
 erns the ankle measure of button boot patterns. However, 
 the attention of all is called to the very large heel measure 
 often seen in misses' shoes, caused by too much and too far 
 back, so called, instep measure of the last. It is suggested, 
 also, that the best way to try the shape of the last from the 
 ball back to the heel, is to make a pair of side lace shoes 
 on the last, and then try them on a fairly well shaped foot. 
 Notice the front seam on the foot. Attention is called to 
 diagram 74, which was a 13-E taken from a spring heel last, 
 in which the heavy lines A B C D represent the wrinkles 
 so often seen in shoes worn by misses. One cause of these 
 is that the throat curve is often made too straight. Another 
 is the last. Mould your spring heel last carefully, and while 
 so doing, mark the place where your last maker calls instep 
 measuring position, of your last on your mould, and after 
 you have obtained your standard, see if that high point in 
 your last does not come about where "\'" is in diagram 74. 
 Rather a strange place for an instep. 
 
 WKLTS. 
 
 In making welts use a McKay pattern, just as it is, 
 
 except the vamp which should be about 3-16 smaller all 
 round the outside until coming near the lap on the quarters, 
 which should be left as McKay, since it is to fit on the Mc- 
 Kay quarters, and the shank will require about the same as 
 McKay. But around the outside of the vamp, if one can 
 save 3-16 of stock, the patterns for the welt vamp will cost 
 nothing. In getting out a pattern entirely and exclusively 
 for "turns," make the curve at the back of the leg consider- 
 ably straighter than for McKay or welt, for in second last- 
 ing a turn the heel of the last stretches out the heel of the 
 upper, and results in a much sharper curve in back of the 
 leg of the shoe than one i)uts in the pattern. A curve that 
 may look all right to the eye when the top of the leg of the 
 empty shoe is drawn up by the hand, will be much sharper 
 when on the foot, for the ankle is then romided up. If a 
 shoe is stuffed with cotton or some similar substance clear 
 up to the top, one can see the curve the leg will have on 
 the foot. If too much curve be in tire back, it will result in 
 the heel of the foot working up and down, and the foot will 
 not be crowded back in the heel of the shoe. In other 
 words, the shoe on the foot will act somewhat on the prin- 
 ciple of a bellows. 
 
 In such a case, the leg of the shoe is really too far for- 
 ward, and carries the foot forward, leaving the heel of the 
 
58 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 foot moving up and down, thus wearing the heel of the 
 hning and stocking out. If you examine the heel of the 
 lining after the shoe has been worn a while, you will find it 
 worn through. It is a good idea to cut all vamp patterns 
 from metal, even though the rest of the set be bound, as one 
 can then alter the vamp if it be a little too large, and it is by 
 trifles the profit on shoes comes nowadays. 
 
CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 MCKAY OXFORD, CIRCULAR VAMP, FOXED QUARTERS AND 
 CIRCULAR LININGS. 
 
 Next take a McKay, dongola oxford, circular vamp, 
 roll, or dropped top. First get a standard the same as for 
 button boots. Mould the last carefully, though in low 
 
 DIAGRAM 75. 
 
 cuts it is not necessary to pay attention to the height of 
 the heel, as in high shoes, or boots. A floor line is not 
 necessary. 
 
 After having got the low cut standard, next cut under 
 on the front to allow the shoe to be open for lacing, or 
 drawing the lacing. See diagram 75. 
 
 DIAGRAM 76. 
 
 Next lay off the vamp line. Then, allowing lap, lay ofl 
 the front of the quarter. If a foxed shoe is desired lay 
 ofif the top of the foxing, then, allowing lap, lay ofif the bot- 
 tom of the quarter. It seems advisable to end a foxing, 
 if possible, at the top of the back of the shoe as shown in 
 diagram 75, "C," to prevent a lump, which is always caused 
 by ending it, as seen at "B," in diagram 76. 
 
 If it be a whole or seamless vamp, it is generally best 
 
6o 
 
 Desi^ninff, Cutting, and Gradins; 
 
 that it be finished as seen at "C," diagram 75. Refer- 
 ence to diagram jy will show how the foxing is got out 
 from the standard, diagram 75. The dotted line "A" on 
 diagram jj represents the stock allowed for folding, as 
 this is to be a beaded foxing. 
 
 DIAGRAM 77. 
 
 WHOLE QUARTERS. 
 
 Diagram 78 shows a whole quarter got out from the 
 same standard with the allowance for beading or folding 
 on in front. Diagram 79 shows the fox quarter. Notice 
 points "A" "B." where the stock of the quarter is cut away 
 to prevent a double thickness. It also serves as a guide 
 to assist the operator in stitching it on. At the front the 
 outside lacing facing will be seen with the allowance for 
 
 DIAGRAM 78. 
 
 folding on it. "C C" shows the line of the quarter cut away 
 so as to save stock in cutting, and save all hand shearing. It 
 will give two positive guides D, E, for the operator to place 
 the facing in the right position; also a guide will be noticed 
 at "H." 
 
 Some foremen or forewomen insist that it is necessary 
 to cement the outside stay to the quarter after the front 
 edge has been folded, to assist the operator in stitching it. 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 6i 
 
 It would not seem necessary, if these guides are given for 
 holding it on. 
 
 The style of the stay may be changed as desired, but 
 the fronts of all should fit where the guides are. Slow 
 
 down your folding machine if it runs so rapidly that the 
 operator cannot guide sufficiently fast for it, but fold facings 
 on the machine. Always have the folder in good order. 
 Next get out vamp, diagram 80, which is a duplicate 
 
 DIAGRAM 80. 
 
 of the vamp obtained for a button boot. 
 
 A few more words about dropping the toe of the 
 vamp. Drop it when the stock is soft, and the shoe or boot 
 is held by any method on the instep when being lasted. But 
 
62 
 
 Desi^nin^, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 one must decide such matters for himself by results ob- 
 tained in each individual factory. 
 
 Diagram 8i shows the foxed quarter with the fold on 
 in front. — Referring- to diagram 75 notice straight lines 
 ■'O" "P." These represent the ending of the leather 
 quarter lining at "O" and the back of the cloth toe lining 
 at "P." 
 
 DIAGRAM 81. 
 
 This is the cheap way to line the oxford, and of course 
 there is an inside lacing facing on the cloth lining as may be 
 seen in diagram 82, which is the facing, and diagram 83, in 
 which may be seen the cloth lining with the facing attached. 
 "A" represents the line of facing as finished, while "B" 
 represents the line of the standard; "E" is the point end of 
 
 DIAGRAM 83. 
 
 the quarter as got from the standard, "D" is where the 
 front lacing is cut in to throw back the lining without any 
 hand shearing or table work. There should be no cement 
 or glue used on the lining anywhere. There is no use for 
 any. 
 
 Diagram 84 shows the quarter lining and it is got from 
 the quarter by marking around, which gives dotted line 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 63 
 
 "A." Now as the outside quarter is to be turned over 
 about three-sixteenths in fitting, of course it will require 
 so much less at the top of the lining. Drop down and 
 ahead about three-sixteenths, as shown on line "B" on top 
 and dotted line "C" at back; then cut under at "D" for 
 counter for McKay sewed. A lining for turn work should 
 be cut differently. Diagram 85 will show the dotted line 
 
 DIAGRAM 84. 
 
 "A," the line of the standard, and down the front line "B" 
 is the line of the front of the quarter. 
 
 This line may be cut in any form, for instance, as dot- 
 ted line "C" shows, but, of course, in such a case the back 
 of the cloth lining must be made to correspond. 
 
 DidJs 
 
 DIAGRAM 85. 
 
 The corner cut out at "D" is for the purpose of allow- 
 ing the lining to be thrown back without any hand shear- 
 ing, or table work, as tihe end of the lining quarter at "E" 
 comes to where it is vamped. This also takes out the lump 
 that would be there if the quarter was beaded clear down 
 and under the vamp. It is best to add along the front edge 
 
64 
 
 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 of the quarter lining, about one-eighth inch, so as to let it 
 project from the front of the outside quarter to trim away 
 afterwards. If it be a beaded facing on the outside, or a 
 beaded quarter, the only practical way to trim out the lining 
 is with hand shears, for the stock used in the quarter lining 
 is too soft to allow a trimmer to be used successfully. If it 
 be a plain edge quarter, then, of course, it can be trimmed 
 off in "closing on" by the machine. 
 
 Diagram 86 shows the cloth lining and standard mark 
 will be seen in the dotted line. 
 
 DIAGRAM 86. 
 
 To fit the shoe with the least trouble (a) close the quar- 
 ters and stay them, stopping off the stay three-eighths inch 
 from the top; (b) close the heel seam of the quarter linings; 
 (c) stitch the cloth linings to the quarter linings; (d) close 
 around the top of the quarters on to the quarter linings; 
 (e) roll the top on a beading machine, using no turning 
 fingers; (f) stitch all round, and down the front; then eyelet, 
 vamp and close the toe seam of lining. Stitch the tongue 
 to the cloth lining three-eighths inch ahead of the end of 
 the quarter, to prevent so much of a lump at vamping point, 
 tacking through the quarters and tongue. 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 
 AN EVEN BEAD OXFORD. 
 
 To make an even bead oxford, round the corner of the 
 quarter, so the operator may close the outside on the Hn- 
 ing at one operation, and allow on the top of the quarter 
 lining about one-twelfth inch, so the operator can close on 
 with a trimming knife. Before the oxfords are lasted they 
 
 DIAGRAM 87. 
 
 should be laced slightly open. Probably the best way to 
 do that, having all open alike, is to provide a wedge-shaped 
 piece of iron or wood fastened to the facer's bench, and 
 when lacing the shoes lace around the wedge. 
 
 Diagram 87 shows a neat oxford to fit the same lin- 
 ings. 
 
 Diagram 88 shows another which cuts very cheaply. 
 It is called a plug circular vamp. Use the same linings as in 
 
 DIAGRAM 88. 
 
 preceding styles. It is just as well to have but one set of 
 linings for all oxfords to be used on the same last, provided 
 they are all the same outline. 
 
 Diagram 89 shows another style of oxford, obtained by 
 marking around and through standard diagram 75, at line 
 of curve of vamp as at diagram 89 "B," so that one may 
 use the same set of lining patterns. 
 
66 
 
 Desioning, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 In cutting this style, (diagram 89), you are referred to 
 diagram 90, for half vamp. If the paper be folded on line 
 "A," (diagram 90), it will give a whole vamp. In this the 
 
 DIAGRAM 89. 
 
 lacing facing cuts very cheaply, and by putting a piece of 
 leather or cloth in the vacancy, "D," (diagram 89) it makes 
 a very nice style. The piece of insertion should be cut as 
 diagram 91 and as dotted line "A" shows the edge of the 
 
 DIAGRAM 90. 
 
 facing. In diagram 91, it is cut under about one-eighth 
 inch to prevent too much thickness at lacing edge. In 
 diagram 89, the inserted piece is shown all round by dotted 
 lines. 
 
 DIAGRAM 91. 
 
 To get the facing in diagram 89 spring up just enough. 
 Cut a pattern from the hole "D," as shown in diagram 92. 
 using it as a guide in fitting. 
 
CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 NEWPORTS, SOUTHERN TIES, AND LOW CUTS. 
 
 Diagram 130 represents a low cut. It represents the 
 instep in its correct position without being forced down by 
 a tight lacing or buttoned too hard. The gore is shown by 
 "A." There is no lacing to this shoe. It can be adapted 
 to men's wear, or children's shoes, and is easy on the foot. 
 The vamp is cut whole, being folded on line "B," which 
 
 DIAGRAM 130. 
 
 throws the tongue "D" down into the gore instead of being 
 sprung up in fitting. 
 
 Diagram 131 shows the gore piece, and should be 
 whipped together at "A" by hand. Use only a few stitches 
 so as to hold in position while being fitted. Just draw the 
 edges at "A" together and it will give a curved line up the 
 front if the gores are cut with a curve at that point. The 
 draught of the gore is in the right direction to make the 
 shoe fit well. If a congress could only be cut so that the 
 
 ^^ — -"^ r\-—- 
 
 ? 
 
 
 
 _ — 
 
 V- 
 
 -\ 
 
 D 
 
 ja./<3l 
 
 \ 
 
 
 ""*- ~~ 
 
 ~ "^ -^ 
 
 \ 
 
 
 
 
 DIAGRAM 131. 
 
 DIAGRAM 132. 
 
 gore, instead of simply drawing hard across the ankle, 
 would draw from instep to heel, an easier fitting shoe could 
 be obtained, beside the leg would be gently forced back, and 
 the heel would not get so far forward. The wrinkles which 
 show so badly just above the vamp at the back would not 
 be there. 
 
6S 
 
 Designinc^, Cutting, and Gradino; 
 
 Diagram 132 shows a pattern used to mark the gore 
 so as to fit correctly. 
 
 DIAGRAM 133. 
 
 Diagram 133 shows the quarter lining cut from sheep, 
 and at "A" the dotted line shows the line of the opening of 
 the vamp. 
 
 Diagram 134 shows the sheep tongue lining, dotted 
 line A showing the edge of the centre piece. 
 
 DIAGRAM 134. 
 
 Diagram 135 shows one-half of the drill vamp lining, 
 it being cut folded at "A." In getting out the patterns 
 for this shoe three-sixteenths inch should be added at "E," 
 diagram 130, to fold before it is fitted. The first operation 
 will be to fold at "E," then to put gores in where they be- 
 long, using cement or glue, and taking diagram 132 to 
 
 DIAGRAM 135. 
 
 mark the gores. After letting the cement set, stitch around 
 the gOre close to the edge of the leather from F to H (dia- 
 gram 130), one row. Next close tongue lining to quarter 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 69 
 
 lining at B (diagrams 133 and 134), and this should be 
 a closed and rubbed seam. Next stitch vamp lining to the 
 quarter lining and tongue lining. Then close the heel 
 seams of vamp, and lining, after which place the lining 
 inside the vamp and stitch a row all round until you reach 
 the gores. The second row of stitching will fasten the lin- 
 ing in. Then trim ofif the surplus lining on the top. 
 
 In lasting this shoe care and judgment must be exer- 
 cised. Since the front or instep line is cut under the line 
 
 DIAGRAM 93. 
 
 of the last to allow the gore to draw sufficiently on the foot, 
 the laster may draw it down some in the shank, but not too 
 much. Some foremen think it best in making any gored 
 shoe to stitch in one or two pieces of drill or webbing from 
 one side of the gore to the other so as to prevent the strain 
 in lasting coming wholly on the gore. When the shoe 
 comes off the last trim out the pieces with hand shears. 
 
 Diagram 93 shows another style obtained from same 
 outline. "A" represents cloth. Dotted line "C" is line to 
 fold. "B" is the leather vamp. Of course the edges of the 
 
 DIAGRAM 94. 
 
 facing and the fancy cut edges will be raw, as there is no 
 stock to fold, but they may be thinned down. 
 
 Diagram 94 shows a cut for oxfords called "Elec- 
 tric." This can be folded on the edge where the insertion 
 or plug goes. 
 
 Diagram 95 shows a "Newport button" or button ox- 
 ford. The general idea of design is balanced all through, 
 and the cutting and fitting exactly the same as an ordin- 
 
70 
 
 Designings, Cuttinsr, and Gradino; 
 
 ary button boot; in fact it is only the lower part of a but- 
 ton boot. 
 
 Diagram 96 is a "Southern tie" and a very popular 
 shoe (1897) on the Pacific coast. This is rather a peculiar 
 
 DIAGRAM 95. 
 
 shoe to fit, and yet easy if the pattern is cut correctly, and 
 no table work. You will notice that all the propositions 
 unusual in pattern cutting, advised in this work are for the 
 purpose of obviating the uncalled-for "table fitting," or as 
 
 DIAGRAM 96. 
 
 it is sometimes called "pasting," formerly considered as 
 necessary as sewing machines. 
 
 The beading on this shoe where the lining is stitched 
 on must of necessity be what is termed "even cord," as the 
 
 J/q.?7. 
 
 DIAGRAM 97. 
 
 ear, where the eyelet holes are, will not admit of roll. Their 
 shape precludes such a result. The standard, diagram 96, 
 is got as usual from the last, after which lay out vamp line 
 and lap; then the tongue and quarter. The back of the 
 tongue must not be too far to the rear, or the shoe will be 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 71 
 
 difficult to get on the foot. The outHne of the vamp is 
 shown on diagram 97. 
 
 DIAGRAM 98. 
 
 Diagram 98 shows one-half the tongue as obtained 
 from the standard, the Hne being the fold. This is for a 
 tongue with no seam in it. Where a seam up the front 
 is desired, better Hues can be secured by cutting the front 
 to the curves desired. 
 
 i)/a yf. 
 
 DIAGRAM 99. 
 
 When lasting a whole "tongue southern tie," have the 
 laster put a little paste in between the outside and lining 
 of the tongue, as it then dries to the shape of the last, and 
 holds its curves better. 
 
 DIAGRAM 100. 
 
 Diagram 99 shows the quarter with the vamp lines 
 dotted. 
 
 Diagram 100 shows one-half the vamp lining cut for 
 the drill, and the standard in dotted lines shows how to get 
 the vamp. 
 
72 
 
 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 Diagram loi shows the quarter hning cut in such a 
 manner as not to vamp through, leaving plenty of room 
 for the counter. The margin to close on by will be seen 
 around the top. It is cut in at "A" for the purpose of allow- 
 ing the tongue to be fitted in. 
 
 In this place it is preferable to stitdh the tongue lining 
 on to the vamp lining first. Stitch the tongue lining on to 
 
 ^iCL.lOl. 
 
 DIAGRAM 101. 
 
 the tongue, the tongue to the front of the vamp, care being 
 taken not to stitch through the vamp lining. Stitch the 
 quarters on to the quarter lining down to the slit "A," dia- 
 gram loi. Bead the quarters, stitch the vamp on, leaving 
 the lining loose, then stitch the vamp lining to the quarter 
 lining from "A," diagram loi, down to the bottom. 
 
 DIAGRAM 102. 
 
 Diagram 102 is a "Southern button." It is about the 
 same fitting as the "Southern tie," except the shoe requir- 
 ing two quarters, as one must be long enough to fold so as 
 to make the button fly, and the other is short, only taking 
 the buttons. It being a circular vamp makes it cut cheap- 
 er. 
 
CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 STRAP SANDALS AND OPERA SLIPPERS. 
 
 A one "Strap Sandal" has been a very favorite shoe in 
 Canada, and most Canadian ladies who wear low cut shoes 
 seem to prefer this to any other. A good deal depends on 
 the last this shoe is made on as to its fit on the foot. An 
 Oxford last is not the correct on-e. 
 
 A last to make a good fitting strap sandal should be in- 
 clined toward the "rocker bottom," and especially so at the 
 toe; while for "opera" slippers, a real "rocker bottom" last 
 is required, though with proper judgment some spring in 
 the shank may be used. One of the points in fitting a san- 
 dal is the "binding." There have been improvements in the 
 mechanism for binding, and the crude way in which it was 
 formerly done, by stitching it fast on one edge, then turn- 
 ing it over and stitching the other down, is out of date . 
 
 DIAGRAM 136. 
 
 An "English binder" on a cylinder sewing machine 
 with a feed at both top and bottom, does the work 
 well. The work moves along very nicely and gives 
 good results. However, a good operator is quite an assist- 
 ance. The binding should fit the binder very accurately, 
 and it will be necessary to see that the needle sews a little 
 closer on the outside edge than on the under side of the 
 binding. 
 
 Another part of fitting on sandals is putting in the lin- 
 ing. Some fitters paste the lining in nearly edge to edge, 
 then trim out the lining to the edge of the outside with 
 hand shears. It is usually better to stitch the lining to the 
 outside with a coarse stitch, using a trimming knife on the 
 machine before binding. Some factories cut the lining by 
 the outside. When the strap is pieced this brings the 
 seam of the piece in the same place both in the lining and 
 
74 
 
 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 outside. But if tlie strap is made with the seam in a different 
 place it reduces the lump at that point. In lasting a sandal, 
 or in fact any low cut shoe that is not held at the instep by 
 lacing, buttons or some other way, it is wrong to pull with 
 the pincers in the shank, or behind the ball of the last, as 
 such a shoe can be drawn out of shape in such a manner. It 
 is difficult to make a really first class line of button boots and 
 low cuts, and have them lasted by the same lasters. Also 
 if making strap sandals, or sandals of any kind, they should 
 not have the buttons put on until they are finished, for, if 
 
 DIAGRAM 137. 
 
 put on before, the laster is liable to button the strap and try 
 to make it hug the instep. 
 
 Diagram 136 shows a two strap sandal. 
 
 Just cut a whole vamp, and afterwards cut it pieced, 
 as at "A"-"B." The strap, one-half, is cut separate (sea 
 diagram 137) and folded at line "A." Diagram 136 shows 
 where it is stitched on the vamp. This makes a very neat 
 and cheap slipper, the straps being fastened with buttons on 
 the sides. It is generally bound on the edges. 
 
 DIAGRAM 138, 
 
 Another sandal is shown at diagram 138. It is an- 
 other cheap cutter as compared with its finished appear- 
 ance. Referring to diagram 139 it will be seen how cheaply 
 the vamp cuts. 
 
 A good many vampers have used a drill lining in the 
 top of i)ution and lai-e boots, sometimes using a fancy siitcli 
 across it where the bottom of the facing would come if one 
 were used. But it is rare such a lining is seen without bad 
 wrinkles, especially down the back curve. Diag'am 140 il- 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 75 
 
 lustrates the manner in which to get out the linings which 
 run to the top and no facing to prevent wrinkles. It is all in 
 the little outward sweeps at the top as seen at "B B." "D D" 
 represents the lines of the outside quarters, and A A the 
 seams taken in the linings (supposed to be one-fourth inch). 
 It will be seen by reference to the diagram that this swell at 
 the top of the linings makes the seams of the quarters at 
 the tops fit perfectly the seams of the linings. The idea is 
 
 DIAGRAM 139. 
 
 that the tops of the linings must be large enough so that 
 the lining seams and the seams of the outside quarters 
 match each other, while just below there the linings must 
 be small enough to fit inside smoothly. This does it. It is 
 sometimes preferable to cut the tops of the cloth linings 
 straight across from the two highest points, as it is easier 
 for the lining cutter. They are closed on with a trimming 
 knife so it costs nothing to cut it out. All sewing machine 
 
 DIAGRAM 129. 
 
 companies now have a wide throat plate — used in closing 
 on with a knife — so as to leave a wide extension of cloth 
 outside of the stitch to prevent it fraying out. 
 
 Of the work on women's opera slippers, reference to 
 the last having already been made, it is necessary to only 
 look at the one peculiarity of the cut of the upper, as illus- 
 
76 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 trated in diagram 129. It is shown with a straight cut 
 seam with the full Hne, while the curved Hne shows the 
 proper way to cut it. As may be readily seen, if this side is 
 closed and stayed, as the back of a button boot, it will result 
 in the top and bottom edge being reduced in length, while 
 the centre will bulge, and show a fullness. This will cause 
 it to hug the foot, and last under better. This upper must 
 not be dropped at the toe of the vamp, and should not be 
 touched with the pincers back of the place where the 
 vamp comes on top of the last. Allow three-eighths inch 
 for lasting in this shoe and three sizes longer than the last 
 for turns, all owing to conditions. Nearly all opera slippers 
 are more or less made turns. People unacquainted with the 
 methods and facilities that Haverhill, Mass., possesses would 
 hardly believe how cheaply turns can be produced. 
 
CHAPTER XVm. 
 
 A woman's CONOR KSS. TIPS. 
 
 Diagram 141 shows a serge congress, the quarter cut 
 as usual. Diagram 142 shows it in an improved way to 
 save stock. 
 
 DIAGRAM 141. 
 
 DIAGRAM 142. 
 
 DIAGRAM 143. 
 
 Diagram 143 shows the way it is usually cut, and dia- 
 gram 144 shows the saving in the new way, which will aver- 
 
78 
 
 Desi^nin^, Cuttint^, and Grading 
 
 age one and one-half yards of serge saved on 60 pair cases. 
 Of course the vamp will be somewhat straighter on the 
 front line in a finished shoe, but the lining, being cut to the 
 shape of the last, serves to plump it out. 
 
 The 142 cut seems to want more pulling down at the 
 sides of the ball in lasting; but, being serge, is drawn down 
 
 DIAGRAM 144. 
 
 very easily. In fact, it can be lasted at the sides with the 
 fingers. A shoe from this pattern will never become squatty, 
 as a serge congress often does. Of course, such a shoe is 
 not expected to be very stylish. 
 
 DIAGRAM 145. 
 
 The next will be an ordinary patent tip (diagram 145) 
 cut as usual, while diagram 146 is the same tip cut to save 
 stock and gives the same appearance in the shoe as 145. 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 79 
 
 In putting tips on shoes, it is well to have them about one- 
 eighth inch back from the edge of the vamp all around, for 
 then the tacks just catch and a good deal of stock saved. 
 
 DIAGRAM 146. 
 
CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 MEN S SHOES. 
 
 In starting on a man's standard it is necessary to se- 
 lect a last, and of course a middle size, say a 7 or 8; also as 
 to width, a 3 or 4 wide if the goods are to be fine, and a 5 or 
 6 wide if the goods are to be coarse. Begin with a fine Mc- 
 Kay sewed button, as it will probably be best suited for a 
 start. After having selected the last, draw the lines up the 
 front and down the heel as central as the eye gives it. Then 
 proceed to get a paper mould as described for getting it in 
 women's work. After obtaining the mould mark around 
 it, and add one-half an inch to the bottom for lasting. See 
 diagram looX. This one-half inch added is added on the 
 
 DIAGRAM 100X. 
 
 bottom of the last for stock to last over, and if very heavy 
 stock to be used may require more. After that measure 
 down from the mould at the heel to obtain the floor line 
 "A." Erect a perpendicular at heel "B" one-fourth of an 
 inch, inside the full part of the heel. 
 
 After drawing the perpendicular at the heel, measure 
 up five and one-half to six inches from the bottom of the 
 last for the height of the back of the leg. Generally it is 
 best to cut the leg higher when the shoe is coarse and 
 cheap, than when it is to be a fine shoe. The curve at the 
 back of the leg must be put in with the eye in absence of 
 any assistance such as prepared curves. 
 
 After getting the back curve, find out the girth of the 
 ball of the last. Make the front of the ankle across where 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 8i 
 
 the back curve is sharpest the same measure as half the ball 
 after adding sufficient for front and back seam. Then slant 
 the top of the leg in front, back toward the heel, as the ankle 
 will require to be larger where the ankle bone comes. 
 When the shoe is on the foot the swell of the ankle joint as 
 it projects takes up the leather so as to curve the* back of 
 the leg of the shoe a good deal more than it curves when 
 the shoe is ofT. This prominence of ankle joint is much 
 greater in men than in women. 
 
 Shoes made on the wider widths of lasts are generally 
 for stout people, while the reverse applies to thin people. 
 Consequently in getting out patterns, this should be taken 
 into consideration. 
 
 After getting the front of the leg, to get the top some 
 eye judgment must be used, so that the shoe will look well. 
 Put in the throat curv^e, which will be much straighter, or on 
 a larger radius than that used on women's shoes for the 
 same reason of the lesser curve on the back of the ankle. 
 The ankle joint pushes out the upper at the point against 
 which it rests, acting upon the back of the ankle and the 
 throat in such a manner as to curve it inward. 
 
 If the top of the last is too thick, it will cause a fullness 
 just below the ankle joint, and upon standing with the 
 weight of the body upon the foot wrinkles will be observed 
 running lengthwise of the foot between the ankle joint and 
 the top of the vamp. A fullness extends over the counter 
 which will probably settle into small wrinkles after the 
 shoe has been worn a few times. 
 
 These small points if obviated in lasts and patterns will 
 certainly result in a shoe of better appearance both ofT and 
 on the foot. 
 
 Next try the last with the size stick. Better allow four 
 sizes more in length of pattern, until a different allowance 
 is found necessary. A good trial or two will settle such 
 points, and no positive allowance can be laid down, as con- 
 ditions in different factories vary so. 
 
 The difference in the stock used in the vamps is great, 
 and allowance of length must be governed entirely by what 
 is necessary. If the factory cuts nothing but calf, or any 
 stock with about the same amount of stretch in it, of course 
 it is easy to determine the allowance. 
 
 If the pattern man who works for a factory, whether 
 he be in the factor}' or doing the work outside, is a man of 
 good shoe factory experience, which is necessary to suc- 
 cess, and is also endowed by nature with a good fund of 
 common sense, he should be allowed a good deal of lati- 
 tude. He should show in results that his end of the busi- 
 ness is loaded down with means of saving in many ways. 
 A man who is really good on patterns, should also be really 
 good in all his ideas of fitting shoes. He should be capable 
 
82 
 
 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 to go into the fitting room with his ideas. If he advances 
 any new ones, whether they be original or borrowed, they 
 should be thorouglily tried, and if found beneficial, adopted. 
 
 We have now the standard for a man's button shoe, 
 except laying out the vamp and the lines of lap on the 
 quarters. The length of vamp is governed entirely by 
 ideas. In this measure off on the toe about five-eighths of 
 an inch for lasting and then measure back four inches as 
 length. The height of the back of vamp or golosh is also 
 a matter of opinion in this standard. 
 
 After laying out the vamp line "C," allow one-third inch 
 for lap, which gives the bottom of the quarter ,shown by 
 dotted line "D"; but when reaching the front lap of vamp 
 on the quarters, allow a little surplus stock so that when the 
 vamp in being stitched on, if very soft, stretchy material. 
 
 DIAGRAM lOIX. 
 
 it will still find' place to catch on. Then cut out the lap on 
 standard, and round the toe of vamp up to straight fold 
 line "E." 
 
 It is now an easy matter to get out the quarters as per 
 diagram loiX. It is well to round off the bottom at "A," 
 as it takes out the lump. Dotted line "B" shows the lap of 
 vamp and line "C" shows the small quarter cut away. 
 This is usually left a square comer at "D." The top of 
 the quarters are stitched to the lining clear across both 
 quarters until the fly is reached, then the upper is rolled 
 over at the top so as to turn down inside about three-six- 
 teenths of an inch. When stitched around the small quar- 
 ter, the front is either stitched down on the lining and the 
 cloth lining trimmed off and left raw edge, or the cloth 
 lining is folded by hand so that the folded edge will be 
 just right to make a smooth lining. The small quarter is 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 8- 
 
 sometimes then left raw edge and in other cases it has the 
 proper allowance for folding, and is folded. This makes 
 neat finish, but is unnecessarily expensive. 
 
 Here is illustrated a way to tit this button shoe, 
 and yet after the help has had a little practice it gives a first 
 class result at a much less expense. 
 
 Round the corner of the small quarter at "D," as dot- 
 ted line shows. Then get out the fly from the large quarter 
 as shown in diagram 102X, in which line "A" is exactly the 
 front of the quarter until it reaches point on which to swing 
 "B," when dotted line "C" the rest of the way up is the 
 quarter. 
 
 Place the pencil on point shown at "B" and swing the 
 quarter to get the spring in the fly, then the back of the 
 
 DIAGRAM 102X, 
 
 DIAGRAM 103X. 
 
 fly as laid ofif by the eye, generally from about half the 
 width of the leg at the top. 
 
 If a button fly is to be plain, it is advisable to 
 spring it some, as even the stretch it gets over the turning 
 iron will lengthen the edge. In men's shoes it is generally 
 folded along the edge, the edge allowance being put on the 
 pattern and then stitched to the fly lining, allowing the 
 edge to project a little so that it may be trimmed off closely 
 by a Barber trimmer, if the stock be of a firm character or 
 by hand shears if the stock be soft. 
 
 This fly is arranged to fold on the Lufkin machine all 
 around the outside edge as will be seen by reference to 
 diagram 103X, dotted line "A." 
 
84 
 
 Desiffninsf, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 Use diagram 102X and add around the edge. Dia- 
 gram 102X is also useful to get out the fly lining. See dia- 
 gram 104X. 
 
 After folding the fly, it is best to close it on to the large 
 quarter, leaving the top down to where the top of the 
 quarters will be rolled when finished, but before closing 
 the outside on to the lining, it is well to fit the button fly 
 lining on to the lining. It will be noticed in diagram 104X 
 
 DIAGRAM I04X. 
 
 that there is left on in front at "A" one-quarter inch to fold 
 over and make a stay by stitching through. 
 
 The margin "B" is left on, to trim off, after being 
 closed on. Of course it is not necessary to leave the one- 
 quarter inch on in front, if one does not care to make it 
 answer for stay. 
 
 A man's button may also be cut to close on in same 
 way as the straight top woman's. This reduces the ex- 
 pense, but some do not like it, as it leaves an even cord 
 or bead down the side of the fly. It does very well on me- 
 dium priced work, however. . 
 
CHAPTER XX. 
 
 CONCERNING VAMPS. 
 
 Next get out a half vamp from diagram looX, and 
 call it diagram 105X. 
 
 This vamp as got from the standard would nearly 
 always be too long where it is vamped to fit the quarters, 
 caused principally by the stretch in vamping. It is usual 
 to cut ofif at the heel say three-sixteenths of an inch as dot- 
 
 1no..mX. 
 
 DIAGRAM I05X. 
 
 ted line "A" in diagram 105X, but some of large experience 
 claim that it is not stretched on the bottom in fitting and 
 does not need shortening, hence at the top cut off only at 
 dotted line "B." 
 
 Where one uses a machine (cylinder) with a feed both 
 under the work and the foot also feeding, the vamp will not 
 
 DIAGRAM I06X. 
 
 stretch so much. 
 
 Another way to prevent, in a great measure, the 
 stretching of the vamp is to "foot line" with a piece of drill 
 from the heel to the ball, by cementing it on the vamp while 
 it is still fiat. This serves also to prevent the vamp from 
 
86 
 
 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 stretching so much while being lasted. Vamps cut from 
 calf, or any small skin, where it is necessary in getting good 
 vamps to keep the toe to the back bone and heels to the 
 flank, are sure to stretch, if not prevented in some manner. 
 
 And now about vamps being closed at the heel, or 
 made to interlock. If it be desired to have a shoe draw in 
 the very best possible manner, it is best to cut the vamp so 
 the fore part is about on a line with the top of the last. 
 This will give it just about the proper "spring," and in pa- 
 tent leather it is almost necessary to adhere to this plan, as 
 this is a shoe to be Jiandled carefully. 
 
 In standard diagram looX, the vamp is got out with- 
 out regard to closing at the heel or interlocking. An inter- 
 locking or reversing vamp, so as to cut the heel of one into 
 the throat of the other, is shown in diagram io6X. Round 
 ofif the lower comer of the heel, as it sometimes saves stock 
 and is easier cut. 
 
 DIAGRAM I07X. 
 
 Diagram 107X Shows a standard from the same last 
 as diagram looX, and the same outline; but it also shows 
 how an interlocking vamp is got at the first effort, also 
 leaving the sides or wings of the vamp as high as possible 
 and still have them interlock. 
 
 In making it interlock, the spring of the vamp may 
 not be just as the last would call for it, for in this case it 
 is governed by the amount of opening, or throat, at the 
 heel. 
 
 Get the fold line of the vamp in the following way. 
 First, it is necessary to get the one-half throat at D, E, with 
 dividers. Then place one point of dividers at H, and meas- 
 ure twice, which gives you "F." This is the width of the 
 vamp at heel- See that one-half the measure from E to O 
 is measured up from F, by finding it at K, which gives you 
 the fold as shown at dotted line P. This gives the line to 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 87 
 
 fold to get half of the vamp, and if done carefully a revers- 
 ing vamp that will not waste any stock in cutting will be 
 the result. 
 
 Regarding men's vamps. — A "right and left" vamp is 
 needed on the so-called "bull dog" of circular vamp, be- 
 cause the toe is so far to the inside, and the outside ball 
 swells out so much. In factories cutting the finest shoes 
 for which a good price is obtained, patterns are generally 
 cut right and left. Lasts, as the majority are made, have 
 the comb and the shanks in such positions, relative one to 
 the "other as to preclude the possibility of a perfect shoe 
 from a straight pattern. 
 
 This may not give quite the vamp desired, but the 
 heights at sides will be all possible to get. In wide lasts, 
 a good vamp is got this way, and as the coarser grade of 
 shoes are mostly made on wide lasts, the shoes come out 
 very satisfactorily. It is said by manufacturers that it is 
 quite a saving to have two styles of vamp patterns in cut- 
 ting some stock of large spread, one to reverse, and the 
 same vamp closed at the heel, and to have the cutter exer- 
 
 DIAGRAM I08X. 
 
 cise his judgment in cutting by using either, or that which 
 cuts best in each case. 
 
 In practice this really saves leather. In coarse goods 
 they are often run right together in vamping, some open 
 and some closed heels put on the same case of shoes. Re- 
 peatedly the two shoes of one pair w^ere made differently, 
 one with the open vamp, the other with the closed 
 heel. Afterwards it was impossible for any one to 
 tell which was which, one deciding one way, and the next 
 the contrary, and after a few days the same person in more 
 than one instance selected the opposite from the one he had 
 selected formerly. 
 
 To get the closed heel vamp, take the half-vamp got 
 from diagram 107X and by marking around it as seen in 
 diagram 108X, get the fold line "A." Then to have the toe 
 correct mark around the toe as line "B," which will cut 
 away the surplus as shown by dotted line "C." For a last 
 with a very hollow shank, this spring vamp is as good as 
 any, if the stock to be cut is fairly heavy. It gives a sur- 
 plus of stock to draw into the shank. 
 
88 
 
 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 To get out the lining for the button shoe, mark around 
 the standard diagram looX, which gives Hne "A" "A," dia- 
 gram 109X, and through the vamp and quarter lap. This 
 gives lines "B," "C." Add on all around the bottom about 
 three-sixteenths of an inch (see line "D") and then cut away 
 down the heel from line of vamp as seen at "E." Put on toe 
 seam from bottom of quarter. Next take off one-fourth 
 inch at top, as shown by line "F," for the top of the outside 
 is to roll over. Notice line "L," which marks ofif the top of 
 the lining. If a top facing is to be used, line H shows bot- 
 tom of facing. When closing the outside on to the quar- 
 ters let the cloth lining project above the quarters a little, 
 to prevent fraying out; but if a top facing is to be used, close 
 on with a small seam only. 
 
 Common sense teaches that the quarters will roll a lit- 
 tle more with a full lining than when a facing is used. The 
 
 DIAGRAM I09X. 
 
 extra roll is caused by closing the quarters on a little lower 
 on the whole lining. It is usual to stitch an inside back 
 stay on the lining down to the vamp lining, leaving lining 
 and stay entirely loose from vamp line to the bottom. This 
 allows the shoe to draw to the last. Nothing will then in- 
 terfere with the counter, beside it does away with the lump 
 caused by seaming. This shoe is generally vamped through 
 the lining with good results. 
 
 It may be, as is sometimes the case, that it will be nec- 
 essary to add say one-eighth inch up along the instep on a 
 standard when getting it out for a button shoe. This ap- 
 plies when a rather large seam is to be taken up the front 
 in fitting the shoe, and when a stay is to be made of the fly 
 lining to prevent the side of the vamp from bowing up at 
 that point in lasting. All such trifles should at once be 
 remedied by the pattern man. 
 
CHAPTER XXr. 
 
 men's lace and congress, lasting. 
 
 The lasting of men's shoes is a matter on which a good 
 deal could be written. In the first place consider hand 
 lasting. A prevailing opinion is that a man's upper should 
 not be back lasted. It is claimed by some that more stretch 
 can be got out of a shoe to back last it. 
 
 The shoe should be drawn well over the toe, a tack or 
 two driven, and the sides of the toe and the heel fastened 
 well before the sides of the ball are lasted. I prefer the 
 tacks at the toe on the end of the last be drawn after the 
 side tacks are in, and so allow the upper to be lasted along 
 the ball wfthout the lastcr having to work against the 
 straight line of the vamp strained lengthwise. 
 
 DIAGRAM I I IX. 
 
 If one wishes to use his own mixture on a patch of 
 cloth for a box, I would recommend powdered glue in 
 liquid acetic acid, adding rye flour until it is of the right 
 consistency. Oil of cloves in it is good to prevent mildew 
 or mould. 
 
 As to lace shoes, to match the button boot just de- 
 scribed. Mark around standard diagram lOoX and through 
 vamp and quarter line. Swing back from the end of quar- 
 ter at the front bottom end to about five-sixteenths inch 
 at top front, more or less if you choose. This gives a lace 
 standard. There is nothing special to get out for this, as we 
 have the vamp in the button shoe, and to get out the quarter 
 is simply to mark around the quarter in the standard. The 
 lining is obtained the same as in the button, except the front 
 
90 
 
 Designinof, Cutting:, and Gradins; 
 
 line, and that is obtained from the quarter, while the front of 
 the lining should be cut away under the facing on the same 
 principle as in woman's. If a folded front is wanted on the 
 quarter, it is put on, and the same applies to the vamp. 
 Common sense cuts patterns, a natural gift gets up new de- 
 signs. Rules apply in all cases if used with judgment- 
 There is no arbitrary set of rules for pattern makers. 
 
 The congress shoe may be taken next. First get out 
 a whole vamp. Then get out a standard as for 
 diagram looX; but as there is no seam to be taken 
 ofif the front of the leg, and as it is a congress, cut under 
 measure slightly at this point. If any other change reduce 
 the width at top of leg, so as to make the gore hug the 
 leg, and prevent any fullness at that point. 
 
 DIAGRAM 112X. 
 
 DIAGRAM 113X. 
 
 Next lay out the vamp, diagram iiiX, and lap on the 
 quarters and gore. Measure each side of the centre of the 
 leg top, for the gore, making it as wide as desired. Then 
 lay ofif the lap of gore under the quarters, after which cut 
 out all laps and use this standard to get the pieces. Get 
 out the vamp, following with the back quarter and gore, 
 as seen in diagram 112X and 11.3X. 
 
 Next we will get out the front quarter pattern which 
 we will use to "cut in" the quarters after they have been 
 crimped. See diagram 114X. This quarter we will use to 
 get the crimp form, which may be a wood crimp, or the iron 
 form used on a crimping machine. The front line should 
 be sharpened at the throat, or rather the front of the leg 
 should be thrown forward, as seen in diagram 115X, in 
 which the dotted line shows the front quarter cutting in 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 91 
 
 pattern, and the full line the shape to make the crimp. Dif- 
 ferent stock may work better with less or more curve in it. 
 
 DIAGRAM I I4X. 
 
 Now for blocking pattern for the front quarter, dia- 
 gram 116X. Place the front of it on dotted line B, which 
 
 Dia.nsx. ' 
 
 DIAGRAM I I 5X, 
 
 will represent the fold of a piece of paper and will be the 
 centre line of the blocker. Mark around the bottom of the 
 
92 
 
 Desi^ninor, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 front pattern from C to D and from D to E. Then place 
 the finger on the place marked A and swing the front pattern 
 so as to get another mark from H to K. Then place the fin- 
 ger on spot marked L and swing again, keeping the front 
 of the front quarter near line B. Mark from O to P, after 
 which mark across the top as at R. This gives the amount 
 of stock, roughly estimated, after which an allowance is 
 made to compare with that shown in diagram ti6X. 
 
 DIAGRAM I I6X, 
 
 There seems to be no set rule whereby any one can get a 
 perfect blocker the first time, as it largely depends on the 
 stock to be crimped, the manner in which it is to be 
 crimped, whether by machine or by hand, or on a brake. 
 It also depends a good deal on the man who crimps it. It 
 is well to use the rule laid down as far as practical, being 
 governed in many instances by the case in hand. Sometimes 
 repeated trials may be needed. 
 
 DIAGRAM 117X. 
 
 When the front quarter is crimped with the form 
 sharper than the cutting-in form, it is expected that the cut- 
 ter will see that the crimp curve is made to match that of 
 the cutting in pattern by twisting or straightening the 
 leather. 
 
 Diagram 117X shows all parts of a whole cut lining 
 with edges folded around the gore so clearly that there is 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 9: 
 
 scarcely any explanation needed. Get the outline from 
 standard diagram iiiX, and only depart from the regula- 
 
 DIAGRAM 119X. 
 
 tion pattern at the tops marked "A A." Here it should be 
 thrown out so as to meet the top edges of the outside. 
 
94 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 These two little swells are essential points in making a 
 smooth lining. The point at B is slightly cut under so as 
 to give a surplus of lining up the instep. This will prevent 
 the shoe from hitting too hard at that point in the lining 
 and so preventing the outside from coming down tightly to 
 the last, as is often seen in congress shoes. 
 
 In diagrams ii8X and 119X is shown the congress lin- 
 ing cut in two pieces, as is sometimes desired. This is so 
 simple as to need no explanation. 
 
CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 FITTING AND LASTINi; THE CONGRESS. 
 
 In fitting men's congress, there are many ways of 
 reaching the same end. Some factories believe in pasting 
 the work al! through the upper. Others use a lot of cement, 
 and others use various machines for folding the gore edges 
 of the lining. Again others fit and fold by hand, using no 
 cement whatever. 
 
 It is by comparison only that we are able to arrive at 
 proper deductions. 
 
 First fit a common cheap congress. The lining has the 
 front seam closed, then the edges of the lining where the 
 gore is fitted and folded or left raw edge as desired. Some- 
 times in a very cheap shoe it is left raw edged, and the fold- 
 ing is quite a disputed point. Some use a "Marshall" 
 folder, which has a single thin steel blade, hung on to a 
 swinging frame, rising and falling, being controlled by a 
 treadle. This machine only folds one part, or fold, at a time, 
 but an operator can become quite expert and work it very 
 rapidly. 
 
 The "Shippee" folder is a "gang" machine, comprising 
 six folders, three for each foot, and constructed so that each 
 folds two sizes, say 9 and 10. The whole pattern must be 
 cut specially for this machine, as the gore of a size 9 is the 
 same size as the size 10, the difference in the leg measure 
 being put entirely in the front and back quarters. This 
 machine folds the entire lining, at all edges, at one opera- 
 tion, and does very accurate work after the patterns are fit- 
 ted to it, or it to the patterns- The machine being heated, 
 serves to keep the fold perfectly. 
 
 In other factories the edge of the lining is folded by the 
 eye alone and with a rubbing bone, or sometimes a heated 
 flat iron pressed so as to retain the fold. In some factories 
 the lining is folded with the fingers, as the quarter is being 
 stitched on. I have seen operators who had worked in this 
 manner so long that they had become experts and could get 
 a nice finish and do the work very rapidly. But it must 
 have been a task to teach the operators. 
 
 The majority of those who make men's congress seem 
 to be in favor of folding by machine. In cheap congress 
 generally the gore is marked with a piece of red chalk, 
 around a pattern where the quarters are to be lapped on. 
 This gives a good guide for the operator. In some facto- 
 ries the lining is taken, after being seamed up the front, to 
 the cement or pasting table, and there fitted inside the front 
 
96 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 (iuarter. The gore is also cemented in between the lining 
 and outside on the front quarter. It is cemented to the 
 back quarters in the same manner, leaving the back edges 
 of lining and quarters open. Then it goes to the stitcher, 
 who stitches it where the laps are. Cheap shoes are some- 
 times vamped, and the back seam closed clear down 
 through lining and outside wrong-side-out, which brings 
 the seam to the inside. Afterwards they are trimmed and 
 rubbed, the inside back stay stitched on, covering the seam. 
 
 The quarters alone with the lining are sometimes 
 closed, being vamped afterward. The cementer or table 
 hand sticks the web strap in the top of the front at the time 
 she cements and the operator on the machine places the 
 rear web. 
 
 In fitting a fine congress the quarters will have a folded 
 edge where they lap on the gore, and it is a matter of choice 
 and custom whether the quarters are folded before they are 
 stitched on the gore. They may have an allowance of a 
 seam added, then placed on the gore wrong side up and a 
 row of stitching put on to hold them; then rolled over on 
 the edge and when right side up another row stitched close 
 to the folded edge. This last method makes a very nice 
 finish, but it needs better operators then when the edges of 
 the quarters are folded first and then stitched on to a line 
 on the gore. 
 
 To avoid the fullness so often seen in the front of a 
 congress shoe, be particular as to the position of the instep 
 on the last. This does not mean necessarily to have a dif- 
 ferent position to measure a last, but to see that the so- 
 called waist does not extend up too far on the last on to the 
 instep of the foot. Any shoe that is not buttoned or laced up 
 the front will bring into prominence this fault if it exists in 
 the last. The lining where pieced by cutting it in two 
 pieces, lapping at the bottom of the gore, is often left loose 
 and not sewed together. In many large factories in the 
 East the linings are cut by dies and a beam machine. This 
 permits many thicknesses to be cut at once and allows the 
 cloth to be laid out the whole width. The dies are some- 
 what expensive, but like all such improvements are the 
 means of making large savings daily. 
 
 When lasting congress shoes there is sometimes used 
 a counter cut almost with square corners on the upper 
 sides. This counter is as high as can be used between 
 vamp seam and bottom. In lasting, the gore will stretch if 
 the upper be pulled very hard forward. The laster some- 
 times pulls the shank in hard after the heel has been tacked. 
 The counter is thus held against the vamp seam at the back 
 of the gore. When the shoe comes ofif the last wrinkles will 
 show just forward the end of the counter, showing how the 
 counter presses up and the leather pulls down toward the 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 97 
 
 shank. This indicates that the shoe has been lasted too 
 hard down in the shank. 
 
 Observe congress shoes on the last just after they 
 are lasted. Notice how the gore is stretched, thus allow- 
 ing the forward part of the shoe to be drawn out of place by 
 too much lasting at the outside shank. This is often shown 
 by the curve downward in the centre of the vamp, which is 
 generally cut on a straight line. The same often occurs in 
 a bal if the lacing is too loose. 
 
 Another method is the cutting of a circular seam bal 
 generally finished with three or four rows of stitching 
 around the quarter some three-fourths inch from the front 
 edge and about the same distance from the back seam and 
 top, while the lower seam is put about where the line of 
 the top of the vamp in a whole cut. 
 
 A Creole congress is a peculiar shoe, and though not 
 made in the finest grades, is sold in large quantities. It is 
 
 DIAGRAM 125X. 
 
 not an expensive shoe to cut, provided large spready skins 
 are used and competent cutters employed. Since the shoe is 
 cut in one piece; having but the back seam it requires con- 
 siderable experience and judgment to place the pattern, for 
 the upper must not be cut from that part of the skin so as to 
 crimp on the back and hip lx)nes. 
 
 The pattern presented has long been in use in a factory 
 and cuts cheaply, still leaving stock for crimping. 
 
 In cutting a new pattern it should be thoroughly tried 
 before being accepted and adopted, for every kind of leather 
 to be crimped needs a dififerent allowance. It is not possible 
 to say just where the allowance must be without trial; such 
 matters rest a good deal with the conditions of the factory 
 and the workmen. 
 
 It is usual in fine stock on any shoe, say kangaroo or 
 dongola, to crimp it wrong side out, so that the grain will 
 not be destroyed by the edge of the crimp form. Sometimes 
 
98 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 two pieces are crimped at one time, the grain sides being 
 placed against each other. 
 
 Diagram 125X shows the cutting in pattern for the 
 Creole congress, and diagram 126X shows the blocker line. 
 
 A shows the fold, and dotted lines B C D E F show the 
 various lines caused by swinging diagram 125X on points 
 I, 2, 3, as shown, after which the allowances for the taking 
 up in crimping. 
 
 In many factories there are to be found quite a number 
 of cutters cutting leather up into vamps, using blockers of 
 all sizes and not throating them. At another table can be 
 seen the "sorters," who sort up these vamps into weights, 
 picking out at the same time the qualities, after which they 
 are throated by other cutters. This necessitates two hand- 
 lings and two operations of cutting. 
 
 In other factories the cutter cuts them complete, and 
 sorts them at the same time. The latter method seems the 
 
 DIAGRAM 126X. 
 
 better one, for if the one cutter is expected to complete his 
 job a little more care in cutting will be given a first-class 
 vamp, still conditions should govern. 
 
 Again, if the cutter finishes his vamps when he first 
 cuts them he may have two sets of vamp patterns, one to 
 interlock, the other closed heel, working them together as 
 he finds the stock best suited. 
 
 A good many cutters have worked in the same factory 
 for many years and are working now just as they worked 
 years ago, when the cost of shoemaking was not so much 
 of an object as was the quality turned out. Now the sav- 
 ing of trifles assures the success. How long will it take a 
 careless cutter, or one of poor judgment, to waste his daily 
 wages? Some of the very best and closest cutters are found 
 in some small obscure factory in some out of the way town, 
 and neither they nor the people they work for know they 
 are superior workmen. 
 
 Boys' and youths' shoes are so near to men's in princi- 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 99 
 
 pie that the only difference is in height of leg and vamps; 
 and almost no congress are made smaller than men's. 
 
 DIAGRAM 127X. 
 
 Diagram 127X shows a style of tongue for men's lace 
 and the same is shown in diagram 128X as it should be 
 
 DIAGRAM 12eX. 
 
 stitched to the quarter, from B to A. This tongue is one of 
 the best for men's shoes. If put on as shown here it will 
 draw smoothly and lay to the foot. 
 
CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 GRADING UPPER PATTERNS. 
 
 There are several machines for grading upper patterns. 
 Each has some claims to special merit, and several em- 
 body the best known means of obtaining widths of sole 
 patterns. It is claimed for the improved Cote, and for 
 the Reid machine also, that on these complete sets of all 
 widths may be graded from one size and width of pattern. 
 The Cote machine is adapted to grade sets of patterns 
 by the centimeter and by the English or American 
 systems of measurement, without any change and without 
 e.xtra parts. 
 
 Lasts are graded to fit the sole patterns; that is, sole 
 patterns are got out first and the bottoms of the lasts fitted 
 to them. But the upper patterns must be made to fit the 
 lasts. No matter if the sole patterns are graded wrong, tihe 
 lasts are made to fit them; but if upper patterns are graded 
 wrong they will not fit the lasts. To prove that sometimes 
 the sole patterns are graded wrong, let us grade a set only 
 1-16 inch across the full ball on women's shoes. The lasts 
 are graded to fit them, but we now understand that this is 
 wrong for anything above child's sizes. It makes the grade 
 between sizes only 3-16 inch, leaving the larger sizes too 
 slim in proportion to the smaller sizes, though by means 
 of the "fan" on the last lathe a gain of on grade of one- 
 quarter inch between sizes may be made, though the soles 
 grade only 1-16 inch. 
 
 There is not at this writing any perfect system among 
 last manufacturers whereby the turning lathe in different 
 last factories turns exactly the same set of lasts from the 
 same model. If five different last manufacturers are given 
 the same model last to turn sets of sizes from, there is no 
 assurance that like results will be obtained from all. 
 Thoug*h the largest of each set may be of the same length, 
 determined by a positive measure, called the "size stick," 
 the girths of the largest lasts at given points are almost sure 
 to vary. So may the smallest of the set, because the larg- 
 est and smallest are the furthest away from the model size 
 in the machine. If the turning lathe is set in different fac- 
 tories so as to obtain different results, that difference will 
 be greatest in the sizes that are furthest from the model. 
 The lathe is laid out in regular sizes in length on the levers 
 used to set tJhe machine, but the "fan" also regulates the 
 grade, and different operators may bring out quite different 
 results in lasts by adjustment of the fan. 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 lOI 
 
 Any one familiar with what is termed the ''top switch" 
 on upper pattern grading machines knows that although 
 the bodies of all the machines of any one make are set to 
 rurn out like sets of patterns, different operators may make 
 quite different sets of patterns by the way each sets the 
 switch. This explains to some extent how the last lathe 
 gives different results, thougli one unacquainted with the 
 construction of the lathe would suppose it would give like 
 results in all factories. Three sets of lasts in the same shoe 
 factory produced in three different last factories, and all 
 supposed to be turned from the same model, may be so en- 
 tirely different that they could be used if mixed together 
 and called one lot. 
 
 DIAGRAM 150. 
 
 When trying widths of lasts to see how they are 
 graded, do not forget to take one of each width and place 
 them on the table to compare the toe spring. Then try the 
 largest of each width and see that the shank spring is uni- 
 form. Some shoe manufacturers prefer their wider width 
 lasts longer on the toe from ball forward, commencing say 
 at D wide i-8 size longer, and E 1-4 size, and E E 3-8 size 
 longer, for as the width increases the instep "fulls up" and 
 seems to move forward, appearing to make a shorter ball. 
 Then we get the length of the vamp on the wide widths by 
 the addition on toe. 
 
 When grading a set of lasts, if the ball of a 4-C woman's 
 is 2 1-2 inches across the sole, as some shoe manufacturers 
 have it, and another 4-C is 2 3-4 inches across the ball, as 
 
I02 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 other manufacturers have it, quite a difference will appear 
 in the largest sizes of the set. 
 
 The madhine for grading both sole and upper patterns 
 which I prefer is the invention of Louis Cote, of St. 
 Hyacinthe, P. 0. Geo. W. Parrott's was the original 
 grading machine. It is nearly forty years since he 
 brought it out. It was not then, however, in its present 
 perfected form. 
 
 In place of a tracing wheel on grading machines, 
 whidh often becomes worn out on account of getting stuck 
 fast, I prefer a diamond with a thin marking edge, which 
 works equally as well on binders' board, iron, and zinc. 
 
 On the Cote machine one can do almost anything — 
 even grade widths. The points all swing on pivot joints, 
 and can scarcely wear so as to affect the accuracy of grading. 
 Any heig'ht of leg may be worked on the madiine, but it is 
 arranged so that it gives the best of results on a small boot 
 pattern where the leg is not run a regular grade. 
 
 Another machine quite well known, as the sale of it has 
 been pushed, is the "Hartford." It is adapted to both sole 
 and upper pattern grading. 
 
 There has also been invented a grading machine 
 with a cutting or punching attachment that cuts the pattern 
 as fast as it is graded. 
 
 In hand grading we have the proportional system, the 
 1-16 system of rules illustrated some years ago in Shoe 
 and Leather Record of London, England. Then we 
 have the " Radii " system, invented by the writer, which 
 I will endeavor to prove is the nearest correct of any 
 and the only one that gives 'fhe grades of bhe upper as de- 
 manded by the lasts. I shall show why this is so, but I do 
 not often teach it now because it is too slow a process. 
 These are times of push and rush, and anything that will an- 
 swer and expedite in a shoe factory is adopted. 
 
 Formerly upper patterns were sometimes graded by 
 using thick pastelboard, stacking up pieces enougti for a set 
 of whole sizes, then cutting dow-n through all, the grade 
 being obtained by the differential slant of the knife. 
 
 Thirty years ago a last was laid on its side on a piece 
 of paper and a pencil drawn around it, the last in the mean- 
 while being rolled a little eadh way with the pencil. Then a 
 pattern was gotten out and a set hand gra'ded. After they 
 had been tested by a manufacturer to see if they "came" 
 pretty well, 10 or 20 sets would be gotten out, the grading 
 being done wholly by hand. The cutting was done by tin- 
 ners' straight shears, and a few carpenters' gouges. Then 
 they were "trued up," anywhere from 1-16 to 3-16 being 
 taken off with a carpenter's coarse rasp, after Which they 
 were bound on a small anvil with a wooden mallet. Some- 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 103 
 
 times they were run through a tinner's roll to run down the 
 binding smoothly. Such a thing as running the binding 
 on with a machine was not thoug'ht possfble. 
 
 When grading proportional it is usual to get the pieces 
 from the standard, having this standard as near the middle 
 of the set to be graded as possible. In this instance we will 
 take a 4-C woman's to start with and diagram 150. This 
 diagram represents the large quarter of a woman's button 
 boot. First mark around the quarter, being very careful 
 to have the corners sharp. That will do away with the ne- 
 cessity of lining each side of the corner with a line from the 
 centre. In this process it is wholly immaterial where you 
 centre to draw radiating lines, for the result is all a matter 
 of proportion. 
 
CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 GRADING BY HAND. 
 
 If one is to hand grade one will need a pair of propor- 
 tional dividers, and can pay from $2.00 to $20.00 for them; 
 a pair costing $5.00 at the headquarters for drawing tools, 
 are good enough. Some insist that they must be nine 
 inches long, but while that length is convenient, equally 
 good results may be obtained from a pair six inches in 
 length. 
 
 DIAGRAM 151. 
 
 The proportional divider is simply a pair of dividers 
 with a movable fulcrum, laid ofif with lines and figures by 
 which to set the line on the fulcrum. For instance it is 
 marked 4 on aline. Now by shifting the sliding centre so that 
 the line on which the 4 is located is even with the line on 
 the leg of the divider, the long end when open is just 4 
 times as long as the short end. The short end equals just 
 4 spaces on the long end. So if the short end is set on 5 
 it is just 1-5 of the long end, and so on. These propor- 
 tional dividers are generally laid out from 2 to 9 or 10, and 
 the principle is just the same. But when commencing to 
 grade sizes we have nothing to do with the figures on the 
 leg. First set the long end so that one leg rests on the 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 105 
 
 point of the toe at "C," diagram 152, and the other on point 
 at "B." Next mark around the standard diagram 152, after 
 whidi draw the line "A" "A" from point of toe to about the 
 centre of heel bulge. Then find one-half, as at B, and ob- 
 tain the length of the 4-C complete. Reverse the dividers 
 and the short end must be just 2 sizes on the size stick. Of 
 course it will not come the first time trying, but keep try- 
 ing until the long ends will fit from "C" to "B," and the 
 short ends register 2 sizes on the stick. 
 
 In laying out the centre point from which to draw radi- 
 ating lines, use judgment and so place it that the lines will 
 not cross each other in ruling, as in diagram 151, as seen at 
 
 DIAGRAM 152. 
 
 This diagram is shown for explanation. At "A" you 
 will see how lines i and 2 interfere with each other, yet 
 otherwise one could get the same result in the finished set. 
 Have the quarter diagram 150 lined ready to grade. 
 
 Use diagram 150 and place a needle in what we call Hhe 
 centre at "A." Draw lines sufificient to break the circles 
 all around. If a straiglit line or a continuous curve is any- 
 where on the pattern, only one is needed at each end, as at 
 the bottom of the quarter from corner to corner, "B" to 
 "C." Across the leg near the top draw the horizontal line 
 as seen at "D." At that point a positive measurement is 
 wanted, as grade and the dividers will not give it so cor- 
 rectly as they do the rest of the pattern. 
 
 Next place one long leg of the dividers in the centre 
 at "A," diagram 150, and on line i at "E." 
 
 Reverse the dividers, being careful not to move the 
 legs, and with the short end measure one space from "E" to 
 "H," diagram 150. Then measure on line 2 from centre to 
 intersection of quarter at "K." Reverse the dividers and 
 
io6 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 space on line 2 as at "L" and so on with 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 
 up to line i. 
 
 On lines 17 and 18 mark out just 1-4 inch from quarter 
 leg. You now have size 8, four sizes from the model. 
 
 It will be easy to understand that since you took one- 
 half the length of the standard diagram 152 for the long end 
 of dividers, the short end registering two sizes on the size 
 stick, if the dividers had been long enough to have meas- 
 ured the entire length of the standard and the short end had 
 measured 4 sizes the result would have been the same. So 
 a pair of small dividers answer just as well as the larger and 
 more expensive ones. 
 
 DIAGRAM 153. 
 
 Having the quarter 4 and 8 sizes, change the dividers. 
 Set the fulcrum on 4. The short end of the dividers will be 
 just one-fourth of the long end; reversing, and with the 
 short end dividing between, the sizes 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 are 
 obtained. While the dividers are set just as they now are, 
 run in on line i and get sizes 3 and 2. 
 
 For half sizes put leg of the dividers half way between 
 the whole size in any one place, and space out and in from 
 that point. Continue all around until reaching lines 18 and 
 17, when 1-16 of an inch is a whole size, on each side, as 
 that increases or decreases the sizes just 1-8 inch, which is 
 correct, as 1-8 inch on eadi quarter makes 1-4 on both and 
 that is the same as the ball of the last changes in sizes. Dia- 
 gram 153 will show the quarter spaced whole sizes and 
 lined part of the way around. 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 107 
 
 To line from space to space use the standard 4 size, 
 keeping the circles as near their relative position as possi- 
 ble. This spacing and lining is a matter of care only. 
 Should you desire a lesser grade at the top leave it until 
 the last of the work and then instead of setting the dividers 
 on 4 division, you set at 6 or 8, making the grade less on 
 top, as seen at "A," diagram 153. At the front can be seen 
 a full grade in height. 
 
 Remember that if you use a lesser grade on the quar- 
 ters in the height you must use the same on the top of the 
 button fly, {\y lining and drill lining. 
 
 One thing to be said in favor of hand grading is that 
 all machines grade the laps on all places where the laps 
 are left on the model pattern to work from. If it be 5-16 
 lap in that standard it will be considerable more on the size 
 7 or 8 woman's and proportionally less on the sizes under 
 
 DIAGRAM 154. 
 
 the model size. One would not realize how much this 
 throws a set of patterns out unless he grades another set 
 with no laps allowed, and then put the laps on with the 
 dividers. Such tests are always instructive. 
 
 Another test is to mould a last very carefully, say size 
 3 woman's, then get out a standard and grade in any man- 
 ner; or make test grades on machines and bv all known 
 hand systems, after which mould the size 8 last as care- 
 fully as possible. Place it on standard size 8 graded up, 
 and see how you have been following the grade of the lasts. 
 
 The trou'ble is that we do not grade uppers as the lasts 
 call for, except by the Radii system, and that is too slow to 
 use at present. The proportional system here illustrated 
 is not correct when the requirements of the lasts are taken 
 into consideration, as any one can see almost at a glance. 
 
io8 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 In diagram 153 at "B" the grade is really greater than 
 at "D"; yet at "D" the last is at its fullest measurement 
 point, and just about over the centre of the shank where 
 scarcely any grade is in the sole. Therefore, nearly all the 
 grade which is in the last 1-4 inch must be furnished by the 
 two quarters, while at "B" the grade of the sole at the ball 
 is 1-12 inch, and that means that the two quarters and the 
 vamp at that measurement point only require 1-6 all to- 
 gether. 
 
 It is often observed where hand grading is practiced 
 that the largest sizes come tightest on the last, though the 
 soft, stretchy upper leather used nowadays permits mis- 
 takes to be made and not show as formerly wlien brush or 
 Curacoa kid were all we had for women's shoes. 
 
 Do not forget that at lines 18 and 19 there is 1-16 inch 
 grade. Grade the vamp, and as all the vamp patterns are 
 cut folded so as to have botli sides alike, fold a piece of 
 
 DIAGRAM 155. 
 
 paper large enough, and then mark around the half vamp as 
 got from the working standard. Call it diagram 154, after 
 which select the point easiest to work from as centre of radi- 
 ating lines. Draw lines sufficient to break all curves. Too 
 many lines do no injury, but only serve to make unneces- 
 sary work. 
 
 The lines as drawn in diagram 154 will apply to all or- 
 dinary' circular curve vamps. It is best not to round the 
 corners on vamps or quarters until the set is out, as all 
 should have the same amount of stock cut ofif. If the 
 rounded corners were graded the round would be greater 
 on the larger sizes, while we expect to lap the same on all 
 sizes, and to lose the same amount of stock in folding the 
 edges. 
 
 Next set the dividers by diagram 152 so that the long 
 legs register one-half the standard, as from "C" to "B," 
 
Boot and Shoe Pattterns. 
 
 109 
 
 while the short legs register t\, o sizes on the size stick, as 
 it was worked in grading the quarter. Place one long leg 
 in "A," diagram 154, and the other long leg in the inter- 
 section of the line i and the back curve of the vamp at "B." 
 Reverse the dividers and point oiif on line i at "C." Then 
 take the same method with eadi line 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, after 
 which again reset the dividers on 4, or one-quarter length 
 on small end to the long end, as this has so far given us 4 
 sizes from the model. Now we have a 4 size and size 8, 
 and only want to sub-divide and get the intermediate sizes. 
 Setting on one-fourth gives one size on the short end. 
 Space on one size at a time, out or in, larger or smaller, as 
 desired. This gives spacing a^ may be seen on diagram 
 154, after which line all around with the model size as a rule 
 to draw the pencil against. 
 
 DIAGRAM 156. 
 
 The diagram is only ruled part of the way, as it shows 
 the spacing better. Judgment or common sense must be 
 exercised in meeting with other curves on vamps. 
 
 Diagram 155 illustrates this. In such a case we can 
 use but a half vamp, as the grade comes partly where the 
 paper would be folded. If one becomes accustomed to 
 hand grading one will not be worried s'hould lines cross 
 each other so that at times one cannot cut off the grade at 
 the lines. Then one will only prick through and work from 
 the prick marks to line again. Sometimes it is almost im- 
 possible in crooked work to prevent the larger pieces in 
 certain locations from coming inside the smaller ones. 
 Practice and familiarity will set all right. 
 
 Diagram 156 shows the circular vamp with a different 
 centre to grade from, but it will only work on a half vamp, 
 as you can see, because it also grades on the fold edge. 
 
CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 GETTING THE LINING AND THE BUTTON FLY, WORKING 
 FROM E E, AND GRADING INFANTS. 
 
 Next we will get a lining from the standard and mark 
 around as shown in diagram 157, after which centre and 
 draw radiating lines as shown, always remembering how to 
 increase the height of the quarters, as they must corre- 
 spond; also the width of the leg. Though we are aware of 
 the fact that this grading is not as the lasts require it in all 
 ways, yet the whole set of patterns is to be used to cut shoes 
 from, and they must be got out so that the different parts 
 of the shoes will come together right in the fitting room, or 
 
 DIAGRAM 157. 
 
 there will be endless trouble. In other words the lasters 
 have for 3'ears pulled the shoes on the lasts so that they have 
 answered, but the head of the fitting department cannot get 
 the shoes together unless the patterns are cut so as to come 
 somewhere nearly right. 
 
 There probably is no use to illustrate the grading on 
 the lining, for the process is just the same in all the set, and 
 on different parts. 
 
 X^ext we will get the button fly as shown in diagram 
 158. Centre it to one side, for if centered in the cen:re of 
 the fly it will make very close work on both sides. Use 1-32 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 1 1 1 
 
 grade at "A" in front of leg, obtaining the balance of grade 
 at back of fly. 
 
 Diagram 159 shows the full standard lined out to grade 
 by this system, and as the process is similar to all the rest 
 there is no necessity to space in this diagram. Any one who 
 desires to use this proportional system should be able from 
 these instructions to apply it to any kind of a pattern. 
 
 DIAGRAM 158. 
 
 All widths of women's lasts are supposed to grade the 
 same in size, namely 1-4 indh in girth. 
 
 Conceding that the lasts are correct, that we have all 
 widths, and that our first order calls for E E patterns, 2 1-2 
 to 8, first mould a 4 last and get out a standard. From that 
 next get the quarters, vamp lining and other parts to grade 
 from. Now a E E pattern is very much larger, of course, 
 
112 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 than an A, as the mould of the last gives it. You are grad- 
 ing from a very large surface, and as the grade is by the 
 system in proportion to the surface graded from in all direc- 
 tions, a much greater grade is obtained between sizes from 
 a E E -width than from a A A; yet the grade between the 
 sizes of lasts is 1-4 inch in A A and E E, both the same. 
 
 Either you get considerably too much grade from the 
 E E or too little from the A A last. How can you recon- 
 cile one to the other? Yet for years this process was ac- 
 cepted as correct. Thousands of sets of patterns were got 
 out thus, and the lasters were blamed if the shoes did not 
 fit. Or the trouble was laid to the fitting room. 
 
 After grading a set of patterns as above by hand, the 
 easiest and best way to get the set in metal or board is to 
 
 DIAGRAM 159. 
 
 cut ofif each piece to the outside line and then mark aroimd 
 it on the metal or board with a fine awl. Then cut down 
 to the next size or half size and mark around that, and so 
 on down to the smallest. Of course this destroys your 
 graded paper, but you have the set ready to get out. If you 
 want a duplicate it is easy to mark around your set of metal 
 or board patterns. 
 
 The foregoing method of grading brings very much 
 the same result as does the method or system lately ex- 
 plained and illustrated by Mr. Day of London; yet there is 
 some difference, as for instance the proportional _sy stem as 
 taught by others, so far as I am acquainted, pays no atten- 
 tion to the results in the top of the leg,' and not doing this 
 gives a result entirely wrong, as can be seen illustrated in 
 diagram 160. 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 1 1 
 
 You will see that the smallest size has the most flare of 
 leg at the 'back at top. This is of course wrong, as it should 
 be of the same general character clear through the set. This 
 should hold good in all but infants', where the size o or i 
 should be much fuller a)t the top In proportion to the rest 
 of the shoe than size 5, which is generally supposed to end 
 the infants' sizes. 
 
 Hand grading is the best method to use when working 
 on infants' shoes, though a good many use the difTerent 
 machines and seem satisfied with results. When getting out 
 infants' patterns mould smallest size last and get out stand- 
 
 DIAGRAM 160. 
 
 ard. Then get out the largest standard from the largest 
 last, varying in leg as deemed best, after which get the 
 pieces of the largest size and smallest size and grade be- 
 tween with the proportional dividers, as this is the only 
 method of obtaining a proper result. After a set of infants' 
 has been graded do not allow a file put on them for trueing 
 up. for fear of losing the small curves necessary to bring 
 out a small shoe. 
 
 There appears no necessity of going into grading on 
 the "proportional" system any further, as the rule is carried 
 out in all cases. 
 
CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 THE OLD OXE-SIXTEENTH INCH RULE. 
 
 Next come to the old 1-16 inch rule used by many. It is 
 sometimes assisted by the eye and partly combined at times 
 with the "sliding" system, or "rule of thumb," and practice. 
 Any one using this system with satisfaction to themselves 
 certainly does not understand the need of lasts, for it is like 
 some others, a system of itself, without regard to require- 
 ments. Perhaps you can fully understand what there is 
 bo it just as well without diagrams. 
 
 After getting your large quarter, mark around it and 
 with a divider set on 1-16 of an inch, space up the front of 
 the quarter along the instep until you reach the curve of 
 the throat. Then space 1-8 inch up the front of the leg, 
 when line so as to make a good joint of leg and instep lines. 
 Down the front curve of the quarter is a matter (speaking 
 of women's patterns) of judgment, of care on curves, of try- 
 ing to reach the bottom of the quarter witli a whole increase 
 of I- 16 inch gain. 
 
 Commence say with women's patterns, as there is so 
 much more to a woman's pattern than a man's. Men's pat- 
 terns are composed of so few pieces, and the stock cut by 
 them is of such a character that less definiteness in detail is 
 needed. See that there is 1-16 on bottom. While laying 
 out the front curve of the quarter add on the point 2-3 of a 
 size from the size stick, to increase the length, one-third 
 being put on the back of vamp :n that particular place, and 
 on the bottom end of curve add 1-3 size. Then in sHding 
 the curve gradually reach from one point to the other. 
 
 In grading sizes there seems to be a great difference of 
 ideas as to how much each size gains or loses in height. 
 Of course the body of the patterns is regulated in grade by 
 the lasts, but the height of the leg in grade is decided by 
 the individual who has that part of the business to settle. 
 Some manufacturers have the grade very small, and say 
 that a buyer always decides on his purchase from the sam- 
 ple shown, which is, in woman's, generally a 3 1-2 or 4, and 
 that they do not say anything if the larger sizes do not 
 grade much in height. Of course if one can keep down the 
 grade on top of the leg it will result in a large saving in up- 
 per stock. Others say they want 7 or 8 to resemble the 4 in 
 all ways. In hand grading by any method this can be regu- 
 lated according to desire; &o also in using some machines. 
 Where a shoe factory has its own equipment of pattern mak- 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 1 1 5 
 
 ing it is easy after settling the point to grade all alike, but 
 where the factory has patterns made outside in a pattern fac- 
 tory, one should always send a large and a small size quar- 
 ter of the same set which is satisfactory, that the pattern 
 maker can govern his grade accordingly. This is especially 
 necessary when ordering part of a set, as is often done. 
 Sometimes a manufacturer orders sets of linings only for 
 the sets he has on hand in widths; and simply sends a 4-C 
 lining to the pattern maker who did not make the original 
 ■ sets. 
 
 When grading lengths of the vamps, some manufac- 
 turers want only half a grade in the throat, so that the larg- 
 est sizes will not run back on the instep as far as a full grade 
 would bring them. This of course necessitates more work 
 on the ends of the quarters, as they must be correspond- 
 ingly lengthened. This is but little extra trouble if the 
 grading be done by hand, but on the machines it involves 
 much extra work, and on some of them it is impossible. 
 So also as to width of top facing. Some want the same width 
 in all sizes. The outside front facings of a front lace shoe 
 are generally all the same width, and it is almost as easy to 
 get them from the front of the quarter patterns and then 
 get the widths with dividers if a plain straight facing; but 
 if they are fancy cut on one side then it is best to grade 
 them on the backs and use the graded set backs to get a 
 hand grade width. 
 
 Machine grading changes the back end of the tip, if to 
 be perforated, so that the same edge perforations will not 
 work. In grading tips it is well to get all the grade except 
 the back line. 
 
CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 ONE METHOD CORRECT. 
 
 There is one method of pattern grading, \vhich so far 
 as grading is concerned, is ajbsolutely correct, and only one. 
 By this system one can grade ten sizes, provided the lasts 
 are graded properly that many sizes and all will fit equally 
 well. Not only that but any last, the largest or smallest 
 even of a set of ten sizes, may be moulded and a standard 
 got from it, and then the entire set graded up or down from 
 that standard with the certainty that all will fit alike. 
 
 When the system here referred to was developed the 
 grading machine was almost unknown. In a series of ex- 
 periments and tests I demonstrated the method of moulding 
 
 DIAGRAM 161. 
 
 a last which is set forth in the first chapter of this work. I 
 proved that when a reasonable amount of care is used that 
 method of moulding produces a correct result. 
 
 Having a correct method of moulding the last I next 
 turned my attention to the grade of upper patterns as re- 
 quired by the lasts. I went to a last factory and selected a 
 good model 4-C. From that I had a set of lasts made on a 
 straight grade of 1-4 inch from 11 misses to a woman's 7. 
 Of course this was not correct to make shoes from, but I 
 was not making shoes, I was making experiments. I was 
 careful in these early experiments that the lasts graded 
 right. 
 
 After this I laid all aside but the size 11 and the wo- 
 man's size 7. I had nine grades between or ten lasts. If 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 1 1 7 
 
 I could find the amount required for uppers of these nine 
 grades I could easily find one-ninth or one grade. So I 
 tried to get a chart of the grade. The size stick helped me 
 for it gave a positive grade as to length. I wanted some- 
 thing just as positive in all directions. I had nobody's ex- 
 periments in this line to assist me as all grading systems 
 previously used were exclusive of the demands of the lasts, 
 and mainly by "rule of thumb." 
 
 I moulded the 11 and 7 carefully getting out standards 
 from each, caring only to have the legs pitch the sr.me. I 
 got the ankles from the ball measure, and left the top of the 
 leg entirely out of the question, for that was to be a matter 
 of taste. 
 
 I marked around the 7 standard as shown in diagram 
 161, and drew Hne "A" "A" from the point of the toe to 
 about the centre of the heel. Then I drew line "B" from the 
 
 DIAGRAM 162. 
 
 corner toward the centre of the throat, but only beyond 
 where it intersects line "A" "A." 
 
 Next I placed the size 11 standard inside of the 7, as 
 at diagram 161, and divided the leg equally in front and 
 back. I then marked around standard 11. Next I placed 
 a pin in centre D and struck out radii i, 2, 3, 4, 5, and so 
 on up to 14. In drawing these I only looked to breaking 
 of curves all around. Then I marked across the legs near 
 the top, calling it E, and found that I had 9-16 between 
 each, fronts and backs. Of course you understand that 
 great care was taken that the upper standards 1 1 and 7 were 
 just right in allowance for lasting. 
 
 Next I took the measure between the 7 and 11, on line 
 I, and transferred it to centre, as seen at "H." Then I took 
 the difference at "K," line 2, and transferred it to centre, 
 as shown: and so on, each one successively until I had the 
 
ii8' Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 whole 14 measures in the centre of the chart, and these 
 lines I termed "Radii." 
 
 Now that I had nine grades in a small chart, I could 
 set my proportional dividers on 9, or one-ninth — ^that is 
 have the short legs one-ninth the length of tlie long legs — 
 when any measurement of the long legs would result in one- 
 ninth on the short, or nine grades on the long end would 
 be one grade on the short end. If I had one grade cor- 
 rectly it was just what I wanted. 
 
 Then I got a 4-C standard, marked around it, as seen 
 in diagram 162, cut my little radii, and putting it so that 
 lines I, 10 and 11 intersected, placed a pin in the centre, 
 holding it in position with a tack at the top. Then I drew 
 lines 2, 3, and 4 and so on up to 14, according as they were 
 on the radii. I also numbered them the same. 
 
 With my dividers on one-ninth, I took the measure of 
 
 DIAGRAM 164. 
 
 line I on the radii on the long leg. Then I had the one 
 grade on the short end. So I merely run out on line i up 
 to size 7, taking measure of line 2 on the radii and run out 
 from size 4 up to 7. Then I took measure on line 3 and 
 proceeded as before. And so on around the work. 
 
 I took my 4 standard and ruled up to size 7, just as the 
 lasts called for it, spacing at or near the top of the leg 1-16 
 each size both back and front. Then I had the 4 and 7 out- 
 sides except the tops. 
 
 I laid out my vamp curve by first drawing on diagram 
 163 the straight line "A" "A" from point of toe to full of 
 bulge of heel on my size 4 standard, by taking 4 5-8 inches 
 from the back of the heel forward to the line B, for that 
 brought the end of the vamp line to the centre of the shank. 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 119 
 
 Then I measured where I wanted the top of the vamp to 
 end for length. 
 
 I then divided the entire length of the standard on line 
 "A A" into three equal distances, after which I drew a rig'ht 
 angled line down at the rear one-third, as seen at D. From 
 the front one-third I drew perpendicular line as seen at E. 
 This gives the thirds equally divided. Now divide your 
 largest size the same way, the straight line corresponding 
 as to height at heel, diagram 164. 
 
 Next cut out the lap of quarter and vamp, as seen in 
 diagram 163, II. This gives you a hole to see through. 
 
 Place the standard 163, or size 4, on size 7, diagram 
 164, so that the toe of the 4 will be on the straight line, as 
 seen at A, diagram 164. The heel end of the straight lines 
 
 DIAGRAM 163. 
 
 should correspond, as at B, 164; and the front perpendicular 
 lines at C should be upon one another. Then mark through 
 the vamp from D to E, 164, a solid line, and dotted line 
 from E to K. Next slit the 4 on the 7 until the rear per- 
 pendicular lines L are one upon the other with the straight 
 lines upon each other. Mark down the rest of the vamp 
 lines, as seen at O, and you will have the size 7 vamp closely 
 corresponding with the size 4. If it should be a little out it 
 is not detected with the eye, and if the vamp is deficient the 
 deficiency is made up by the quarter. The entire standard 
 or upper is correct to fit on the last. 
 
 If a foxing is desired, first lay out the foxing in the size 
 4 standard, and then try the means just employed in dis- 
 secting for vamp. It is much easier than it appears; but 
 
I20 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 like almost any other mechanical process, may require con- 
 siderable practice to become expert. 
 
 It is the same process on a low cut, for a low cut is 
 nothing but a high boot with the leg cut off. We are al- 
 ways insured as to the fitting qualities on the last, and any 
 one can see that no laps are graded, but only body of the 
 pattern. 
 
 After getting the large size 7 quarter from the size 7 
 standard, and the size 4 large quarter from the size 4 stand- 
 ard, mark around the large one, then place the 4 inside, as 
 illustrated by diagram 165, dividing the difference all 
 around about equally, so as to make it more convenient to 
 grade. It will be noticed that whole sizes only are shown in 
 
 DIAGRAM 165. 
 
 diagram 165, but this was done so that the engraver of the 
 diagrams would not be obliged to do such fine work as half 
 sizes would represent. 
 
 The cross lines at the various positions from the large 
 to the small quarter are frequent enough only to break the 
 curves. Notice that we now have a size 4 and 7. Of course, 
 that is four sizes, or three grades. Set the proportional di- 
 viders on the one-third mark on dividers, and then with one 
 long leg on the 7 and the other on the 4, get the divisions 
 on each line. After grading from 7 to 4, run on the inside 
 of size 4 until the necessary smaller sizes are obtained, say 
 a 3 and 2. 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 121 
 
 There are lines at the toe of the quarters, as seen on 
 diagram 165, sufficient to show the idea, and a continuation 
 of spacing and Hning is all that is required to make a full 
 set of quarters. 
 
 Diagram 166 shows the largest and size 4 vamps laid 
 out for grading a set on the same principle as the quarters. 
 It is well to use the largest standard in ruling the lines, as 
 the other would run short on all corners. Ruling across 
 often enough to break the curves answers every purpose. 
 In getting the rest of the set of patterns get out the 4 and 
 
 7 fly and grade between. Then when getting out the top 
 facing, if preferred, keep the whole set one width. 
 
 In fact, with this method the dissection of any and all 
 parts is made with the positive assurance that the whole set 
 will come together as if they had grown there, something 
 no one can do with machine grading. Yet machine grading 
 may be preferred because so rapid in comparison with this 
 slow method. 
 
 A good many people are using the various machines 
 for grading who do not thoroughly understand them, and 
 oftentimes fail to obtain as gfood results as thev might. 
 
CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 GRADING WIDTHS. SOME USE ONLY THREE WIDTHS OF 
 PATTERNS. HEEL MEASURE. 
 
 At the time I invented the Radii system, many sets of 
 women's and misses' lasts were turned with the 3-16 grade 
 in girth, and at that time one last maker in Lynn told me 
 that he graded children's soles 1-16 across the balls, and 
 misses' 1-14, and women's 1-12 of one inch. So when I 
 asked him how he graded the lasts he said he did not know, 
 but it was just as the turning lathe left them, except the fin- 
 ishing, which meant shaving and polishing. 
 
 Men's lasts have for a long time been graded very sim- 
 ilar to the present grade, and there has not been very much 
 change in the finest grade?, but the last manufacturers who 
 once made a specialty of peg lasts are nearly all now mak- 
 ing efforts in the finer grades. 
 
 Grading widths is not generally well understood. There 
 must be some definite point settled before measurements 
 can be accepted. If "around the ball" means straight 
 around, then let it be so understood. If it means at an angle 
 from the inside ball to the outside ball, then let there be a 
 positive angle. If we have a ball measure for the foot, then 
 let us have a measuring position so far forward from the full 
 of the heel, and at a certain diagonal across the foot or last. 
 When a positive position is definitely settled upon let it be 
 applied to both the foot and last alike, so that one person 
 can measure the foot, and another the last, and with a cer- 
 tainty that they both agree in every particular. 
 
 No one should grade patterns in widths, unless he has 
 by some means satisfied himself that there is a certain def- 
 inite grade of the lasts to be worked upon, and what that 
 grade is. In doing this it is necessary to know also if each 
 width has a sole of its own, or whether one sole answers 
 for more than one widfh, and if it does, what widths it is 
 used on. Not infrequently the same insole is used in mak- 
 ing two or more sets of lasts in width, and on children's 
 shoes one last is often used for two widths, the only dififer- 
 ence made in the upper pattern being in the width of ankle. 
 
 Some manufacturers use only three widths of patterns 
 to get six widths of shoes, and get what they seem to be sat- 
 isfied with by cutting up and down, and crossing a vamp 
 on to a quarter and fussing and fitting. 
 
 There is nothing less expensive to a shoe manufacturer 
 than complete sets of lasts and complete sets of patterns, 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 123 
 
 when all things are considered, provided lasts and patterns 
 are right. 
 
 Feet var}' much in shape as well as in measurement, 
 and were it not for the readiness by which button and lace 
 shoes are adapted to size and shape of feet by moving the 
 buttons and leaving the lace to adjust itself, we would have 
 much more trouble. Few factories have lasts where any 
 two sets are of the same rear part. That is, the parts back 
 of the ball do not resemble each other. Then, again, in 
 widths, how few manufacturers have insisted that all of one 
 style shall have the same toe spring? But the wider the 
 width, the greater the toe spring is often seen. 
 
 Again, the instep of the wider widths are liable to grow 
 too far ahead and too prominent, thus cutting short the 
 chance for a middling long vamp, as it would not last down 
 on the sides. Some of our most prominent manufacturers 
 try to overcome this difficulty by increasing the length of 
 the last, the increase being wholly on the toe. I have found 
 lasts that varied but 3-16 grade between widths. 
 
 A majority of the trouble in patterns is caused by tak- 
 ing too much for granted. A pattern that is successful in 
 one factory may be all wrong in another factory, where con- 
 ditions are different. In troubles that come upon you in 
 this connection common sense must be the good friend 
 who will help you out of your difficulties. 
 
 When preparing to grade widths, it is advisable, after 
 measuring the lasts, to mould the model size of each width 
 carefully, to be sure that all lasts of each set give similar 
 curves in like positions. Nothing will give the pattern man 
 a more correct idea of the work before him than a complete 
 set of last moulds, each marked so as to be used intelli- 
 gently at any time. This does away with repeated mould- 
 ings. 
 
 No man is capable of making models for lasts until he 
 knows how to get correct standards of upper patterns from 
 them. He may make models, but he does not know what 
 he will get for shoes from them until he has standards. 
 
 A pattern from a last of a certain size and width should 
 have a certain heel measure. Heel measure in a pattern is 
 just as essential for a good fitting shoe as ball measure. 
 
 To get the heel measure of the pattern it is absolutely 
 necessary for a last model maker to either know how to get 
 a proper standard from any new last he may get up, or have 
 some one near him who does know. This standard must, 
 to a certain extent, decide if his model be correct. And 
 the more progressiye last manufacturers will do this soon. 
 
 After strapping and moulding one size of each width, 
 it is easy enoug'h to see what is needed in getting out pat- 
 terns in widths to fit the lasts. 
 
124 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 Pattern making has, within a few years, become a pro- 
 fession which requires a thoroughly practical knowledge of 
 the fitting room. Unless the pattern maker's work is in 
 harmony with the requirements of that room in putting 
 uppers together, his patterns will be a failure. A pattern 
 maker should visit the fitting room often and notice if but- 
 tons are in correct positions on the button boots. 
 
 The heel measure of a woman's pattern is reckoned 
 from the sharpest curve of the quarter at the throat to the 
 bottom of the last at the heel. Where the upper and counter 
 turns under the last on a 4-C button boot this measurement 
 should be 1 1 1-2 inches, and then run less on each nar- 
 rower width 5-16 inch and on wider widths the increase 
 should be 5-16, while on E width the increase should be a 
 
 DIAGRAM 200. 
 
 little more than the 5-16, and on EE the increase would be 
 well to be 3-8, although in regular width grading generally 
 holds to 5-16 increase for each width. 
 
 In grading widths on the top of the leg, AA or AAA 
 width is generally worn by a slim woman who has scarcely 
 any swell at the calf, and the top should not be increased in 
 proportion, whereas a woman wearing an E or EE is almost 
 always fleshy and has a large calf, hence top of the leg 
 should be larger than a regular grade. Of course this is 
 not always done in grading, but any one can understand 
 that it is likely to 'be proper. Again the button or lace for 
 a fastening comes to our relief, for buttons can be moved 
 and lacing can be left open. 
 
 The grading of widths in women's shoes is a matter of 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 •25 
 
 dose penciling and cutting, and is mudh the hardest to get 
 out. A sliglit variation in men's patterns from the exact- 
 ness necessary in women's is not noticed. The lines are not 
 so particular nor the curves of the outline so sharp and de- 
 fined. Then there are so few pieces in men's to come to- 
 gether, whereas in women's we have many small, sharp 
 curves. The stock used on the finer grades of women's de- 
 mands more care. 
 
 Take a standard of a 4-C, diagram 200, and line around 
 it. Grade out to EE and into AA, making three grades 
 larger and three grades smaller than the model. This is 
 
 -^l>ia.3.0l. 
 
 DIAGRAM 201. 
 
 shown for all the widths of lasts of the same length, but if 
 there is increase in the wider widths in the length 
 of toe from ball forward, simply add the extra on 
 the toe of the wide sizes. At H space 1-16 inch 
 for each width and at K space 1-8 inch for each 
 width. In lining the bottom from L to O have 
 the standard 4-C, or whatever standard you use to work 
 from on spaces at HH. Have the fullest part of the bulge 
 at heel at P even, so that you will get the proper curve at 
 bottom of the heel as seen at R. If this is not done the 
 
126 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 wider widths will be cut under at this point, and the nar- 
 rower widths will be left too full at extreme bottom. The 
 lining of the grading of widths is so very simple and ap- 
 parent that it is not necessary to dwell on it. It is 'best to 
 line up the front from the toe to curve of throat, shifting the 
 standard as necessary, until the throat is reached. Then the 
 lines will run out as shown at SS. Then line down the front 
 of the leg, spaced at KK i-8 inch to each width, being 
 careful to guide by the spacing at KK and moving the 
 standard up until the throat curve strikes on the instep line 
 and the two make a continuous line. 
 
 DIAGRAM 202. 
 
 At the top of the leg draw a horizontal line W, resting 
 on the two highest points as at TT, and draw it away be- 
 yond the leg at each side. Then space up and down for 
 each width as much as you please. 
 
 A space of 1-16 inch is generally preferred. If the 
 sihoes must be cut cheaply as possible, it is well sometimes 
 to keep all the larger widths the same height and grade 
 none, grading down the narrower widtlis. Such matters 
 are to be governed entirely by conditions. 
 
 By these general rules widths will all have a family re- 
 semblance, and, provided your men's, 'boys', women's and 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 127 
 
 misses' lasts are or-raded 1-4 inch in width and trhe soles 1-12 
 inch, the patterns will fit all widths alike. 
 
 Diagram 201 shows the quarter graded from 4 C to 4 
 EE down to 4 AA. Up the instep, across the top, on the 
 bottom and down the back, the grading in widths is the 
 same as in standard diagram 200. The front of the quarter 
 is graded in this diagram so as to have all widths of quar- 
 ters the same length. 
 
 Diagram 202 shows the same 4 C quarter graded up to 
 a 4 EE and down to a 4 AA in the way many pattern 
 makers are now grading. I^ must necessarily cause the 4 
 EE quarter to grow longer as seen at H and shorter on the 
 AA as seen at K, diagram 202. The result of this method 
 of grading in width is not often noticed by any one who is 
 not "up" in the knowledge of patterns, and is so much less 
 work than the method shown in diagram 201. 
 
 DIAGRAM 203. 
 
 In diagram 202 it will be noticed that the point of the 
 quarter grows wider on wide widths and narrower on nar- 
 row widths very rapidly, too rapidly to look well. The 
 method shown in diagram 201 is better. In this, as may be 
 seen, a perpendicular line has been drawn on the point of 
 quarter at X. Notice that the EE and AA quarters end at 
 the same line, thus keeping them all of equal length. Also 
 you will see that the throat of the vamp increases only 1-16 
 inch to the width as it is also graded at line G 1-32 inch to 
 the width. 
 
 There are other methods used by pattern makers in 
 grading widths, but it seems unnecessary to illustrate 
 further. One method used by many, results in throwing 
 the legs of the different sizes further forward or back, as the 
 case may be, consequently the legs of the shoes in different 
 sizes do not stand with like pitch. 
 
1 28 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 In the width grading system here described I have been 
 entirely guided by the lasts, but have likewise made free use 
 of common sense — a necessity to successful pattern making. 
 
 In lining down the front curve of the quarters, it is 
 necessary to keep the standard quarter by which you work 
 in alignment, for if it is twisted your curves will not har- 
 monize. In diagram 203 is shown the vamp graded from a 
 4 C to 4 EE, and 4 AA showing as in the previous widths 
 only the extreme and the standard 4 C. At HHH the 
 grade is 1-16 inch and at K it is only 1-32 inch. It is only 
 graded in one-half vamp, so as to cut on fold line. This 
 
 DIAGRAM 204. 
 
 grading is illustrated so plainly in diagram 203 as to pre- 
 clude the necessity of further explanation. 
 
 Next refer to diagram 204 for explanation of grade in 
 the width of lining pattern. At HHH the grade is 1-16 
 inch and the grade at K is 1-8 inch, while at O the perpen- 
 dicular line retains the same length of lining where it meets 
 the quarter, for lining and quarter must compare. The 
 front of the lining is graded to match the grade of the vamp. 
 Notice that at the back of the heel near the bottom the 
 grade is the same as the quarters. 
 
CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 GRADING BUTTON FLY. 
 
 Probably the most difficult part of width grading has 
 been the button fly. To illustrate this properly will require 
 a few extra diagrams, but as the result is so satisfactory it is 
 well to go to the bottom of the matter. In the first place 
 we will grade and cut each quarter in the various widths 
 desired, to get the fronts of the flys, by marking around the 
 quarters at top front, and a short way along the bottom ends 
 
 ;])ia^OJ. 
 
 Dia.20S. 
 
 DIAGRAM 205. 
 
 DIAGRAM 205. 
 
 of the front or instep line, leaving plenty of paper back of 
 the front lines. Cut out each button fly as far as lined; see 
 diagrams 205 AA, A, B, C, D, E, EE. 
 
 Next cut these flies out, on the lines, leaving plenty of 
 stock back, so that they resemble diagrams 205, being cut 
 on the lines. Next get, say, a duplicate of a 4 C fly as 
 shown in diagram 205, and then cut the back of it to suit 
 the requirements as to sweep, width, etc. 
 
 Next place the fly so cut in front as seen in diagram 
 
Designing, Cutting, and Gradine 
 
 Dta^oj. 
 
 DIAGRAM 205. 
 
 DIAGRAM 205. 
 
 Di a. 2 OS. 
 
 DIAGRAM 205. 
 
 DIAGRAM 205 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 
 
 131 
 
 206 one upon the other, with the space down the front of 
 the leg to suit your own ideas regarding the grade of each 
 width. If an opinion has not been formed place them 1-16 
 inch from the edges of each other, as the 4 C is about one- 
 half the width of the leg. Grade the legs in width 1-16 inch, 
 being careful to keep the front equidistant until the throat 
 curve is reached. Just below that we will reduce the grade 
 a trifle by sliding each up and down on a perpendicular line, 
 until we have reached the grade we desire on the instep line. 
 Then, liolding all firmly in place, drive a needle through the 
 
 Dia.^oi, 
 
 DAIGRAM 205. 
 
 DIAGRAM 206. 
 
 two marked HH. Of course, afterwards, they may all be 
 placed in the original position if desired by sticking two pins 
 through them all. 
 
 Again place the flies one upon the other, the widest 
 being at the bottom, and the backs not yet cut to line as 
 seen in diagram 207. Have the lower ends lying back, one 
 upon the other about 1-32 inch, more or less, as may be de- 
 sired, and up the instep a little further, as seen in diagram 
 207, after which drive the needles through the places 
 marked "K." Now you remove them all, and taking your 
 original, which in this instance is a 4 C, lay it down on the 
 
132 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 Dia^o7 
 
 DIAGRAM 207. 
 
 DIAGRAM 208 
 
 DIAGRAM 208. 
 
 DIAGRAM 208. 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 13- 
 
 DIAGRAM 208. 
 
 DIAGRAM 208. 
 
 DIAGRA'M 208. 
 
 DIAGRAM 208. 
 
134 Designing, Cutting, and Grading 
 
 board, and then lay the 4 C, 205, with holes pricked at HH, 
 and KK and having the front, top and bottom directly un- 
 der the 205, mark through the prick holes. Now your 4 C 
 original is all ready to get the corresponding curve of back 
 on each width. 
 
 Next take EE, 205, and push the pins through the 
 original 4 C and down through the corresponding holes 
 HH in the EE, after which mark around the back of the 
 original 4 C on the EE a little more than half way down 
 the whole length. Next repeat the operation with the pins 
 in holes KK. Afterwards use the 4 C to finish the top of 
 back. Repeat the operation with each width, and then cut 
 the back of each. 
 
 DIAGRAM 208. 
 
 See the best results of width grading of flies as shown 
 in diagram 208 AA to EE. 
 
 There are those who after much experience grade 
 widths by a little slipping and the use of the eye. 
 
 It seems hardly necessary to show the grading in 
 widths of top facings, as they are generally kept all the 
 same in width and merely grade in their length. The same 
 may be said as to the fly linings as they are generally got 
 from the flies. If a small lining is wanted, or if using a 
 large and small lining pattern, which seems advisable if 
 the conditions of the factory will permit, it is best to cut 
 
Boot and Shoe Patterns. 135 
 
 them both at once, for a double thickness of paper is cut 
 just as quickly as a single. Then reduce the front line to 
 correspond with the small quarter. Then, too, when both 
 are cut at once they are of necessity exact duplicates. It 
 would seem as though the ordinary man could from these 
 hints apply the system to all width grading. Common 
 sense is a great factor in width grading, but one must be 
 careful to see that the lasts grade correctly. If one intends 
 grading in widths it is very convenient to have a set of 
 spacing points made from sheet steel, and arranged as fol- 
 lows, to be ready for any emergency: 1-32, 1-16, 1-12, 3-32, 
 1-6, 1-8, 3-16, 1-4, 5-16 and 1-3 inch. 
 
 Have them made very perfect at first, then you may 
 always depend on them, and much time is saved that would 
 be expended in setting dividers. In laying out the fly to 
 be scalloped, it is best to lay out the top and bottom scal- 
 lop first with eye, by the aid of a copper cent, or a dime, 
 after which see how deep your chisel cuts, then set the di- 
 vider and lay out the number of scallops you desire. 
 
 Some pattern makers grade widths of vamps on the 
 grading machines. This saves time, but is not always 
 correct, as may be proved by cutting the largest vamp 
 of each width in paper carefully from the patterns, 
 then just as carefully cut the quarters in paper and test 
 the fit, comparing with the model size and width. Use 
 paper to test anything of this kind, for one cannot get a 
 proper test by trying the bound pieces. 
 
 Low cuts can be graded one width each way from the 
 model width so they will work fairly well on the lasts, but 
 you will prdbaibly find they increase too rapidly in height 
 at the rear or heel of quarters. In using the machine for 
 grading low cuts in widths, you grade on the same princi- 
 ple used in grading soles in widths. 
 
 [the end.] 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 CONVENIENT RACK FOR PATTERNS. 
 
 The diagram here shown is an arrangement of pigeon 
 holes, for patterns. Each set is supposed to have a dis- 
 tinct number, and any set, no matter how many there may 
 be, may be placed in a moment by an entire stranger to 
 the system, as well as by one accustomed to it. The 
 extreme simplicity of the arrangement is apparent. 
 
 
 1 
 
 i. 
 
 i 
 
 4' 
 
 .r 
 
 I 
 
 7 
 
 r 
 
 9 
 
 fO 
 
 a 
 
 /I 
 
 13 
 
 i-i 
 
 li 
 
 ' /(, 
 
 ,/ 
 
 /\ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 c 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 p 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 EJ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 F 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Each pigeon hole is numerically numbered at the 
 top, while at the end the letters A B C D, and so on, rep- 
 resent all on that line. In a small memorandum book 
 hanging in immediate proximity is recorded the number 
 of each set, commencing with the lowest. Suppose we 
 want to find set No. 21. We look in book at 21, and see 
 it is in " S-C." Now we look at pigeon hole on line of 
 figure 5, and then cross over at " C," and we have it. 
 No. 181 set is wanted. We find in the indexed book that 
 it is at " 12-B." We look on line of holes 12, and where 
 it intersects " B " we find the set. 
 
INDEX 
 
 Page. 
 Appendix 137 
 
 Beading, A few words about 36 
 
 Button boot with rolled top , ... 46 
 
 Button boot, the Climax 42 
 
 Button fly. Getting the ... 16 
 
 Button fly, Grading the 110 
 
 Buttons in right position 12 
 
 Mutton shoe. To get out linings for a man's, 88 
 
 Button shoes with seamless vamps . . 35 
 
 Cement, Use no, or paste or glue 5^' 
 
 Climax button boot 42 
 
 Circular linings . . 59 
 
 Circular vamp iS- 59 
 
 Closing rounded corners --> -3 
 
 Cloth lining, To get a . 14 
 
 Cloth quarters 31. 54 
 
 Complete sets of lasts and patterns not 
 
 expensive 123 
 
 Congress, A man's Creole 97 
 
 Congress, A woman's serge . 77 
 
 Congress, Kitting a man's 95 
 
 Congress, Lasting a man's 95 
 
 Congress shoe, To avoid fullness in the 97 
 Congress, Woman's leather . .44 
 
 Corners rounded off 20 
 
 Curve, Getting the leg 7 
 
 Dividers, The proportional ... 104 
 
 Dongola beaded vamp gypsy button boot 33 
 Dongola boot, A lady's 11 
 
 E. E., Working from 
 Even bead Oxford, An 
 
 1 10 
 65 
 
 Fly linings . . 32 
 
 Fly, The lining of 25 
 
 Floor line. Getting the 6 
 
 Foxed quarters 59 
 
 Front lace shoe 50 
 
 Front quarter pattern. The . 90 
 
 Front seam, crooked 12 
 
 Grading by hand . .■ . . .104 
 
 Grading by radii system too slow .... 107 
 
 Grading infants' no 
 
 Grading for half sizes 106 
 
 Grading machines. The Cote 102 
 
 Grading, The correct method 116 
 
 Grading, The old one-sLxteenth inch rule 114 
 
 Grading, The proportional system ... I02 
 
 Pace. 
 
 Grading, The radii system . 102 
 
 Grading upper patterns 100 
 
 Grading widths 122 
 
 Grading widths at top of leg ' -4 
 
 Grading widths not generally understood 122 
 
 Half vamp button 35 
 
 Heel measure 123 
 
 Infants' shoes. Hand grading best on 113 
 
 Introduction i 
 
 Lap required not uniform 9 
 
 Lasting men's shoes 89 
 
 Lasts, graded to fit sole patterns 100 
 
 Lasts, Grading sets of loi 
 
 Lasts, Trying width of loi 
 
 Last, Moulding the . 3 
 
 Lathe, The last turning 100 
 
 Leather fly lining 27 
 
 Leg curve for ladies' shoes 7 
 
 Linings, Circular 59 
 
 Lining, Grading the no 
 
 Linings, Vamping through 16 
 
 Low cuts 67 
 
 Low cuts, how graded . '35 
 
 Low cut, How to last the . . 69 
 
 Low cut. How to stitch the . . . 68 
 
 McKay Uxford 59 
 
 McKay pattern for welts 57 
 
 Men's Congress 89 
 
 Men's lace 89 
 
 Men's shoes, drawing the perpendicular 80 
 
 Men's shoes, fitting the button fly . S3 
 
 Men's shoes, getting the back curve of . 80 
 
 Men's shoes, getting the standard . 80 
 
 Men's shoes. The quarters of 82 
 
 Misses' shoe, similar to woman's ... 57 
 
 Moulding the last 3 
 
 Napa fly lining 49 
 
 New facts ... .67 
 
 Newport button 69 
 
 Opera slippers . 75 
 
 Oxford, McKay 59 
 
 Pattern grading machines 10 1 
 
 Patterns, Grading upper 100 
 
 Patterns, graded to fit lasts 100 
 
 Pattern making a profession 124 
 
Index. — Continued. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Quarters, Cloth 3'' 54 
 
 Quarters, Fixed 59 
 
 Quarters, Front and back 39 
 
 Quarters graded down to 4 AA .... 127 
 
 Quarters, Whole 60 
 
 Rolled top. Button boot with 46 
 
 Rounding off corners 21 
 
 Sandals, How to fit 72 
 
 Sandals, Strap 73 
 
 Sandal, Two strap 74 
 
 Scalloping done poorly 36 
 
 Seam allowance for linings 14 
 
 Seamless vamp ... 28 
 
 Sewed circular vamp, McKay ... 3 
 
 Side lace shoe, The 37 
 
 "Sliding" 34 
 
 Slippers, Opera 75 
 
 Small linings, To obtain the 16 
 
 Small quarters. Beading off 12 
 
 Southern button 72 
 
 Southern tie 67, 70 
 
 Standard, Dissecting the 6 
 
 Standard, Getting the . . 6 
 
 Standard height in America 7 
 
 Stitching the fly 24 
 
 Page. 
 
 Strap Sandals • 73 
 
 Tips 79 
 
 The Cote grading machine 102 
 
 Tongue southern tie, A whole -71 
 
 Top facing 27 
 
 Top facings. Width grading of, not neces- 
 sary 134 
 
 Top switch on pattern grading machines. 
 
 The • . . loi 
 
 Vamping through lining.s 16 
 
 Vamping and no hand shear work .... 56 
 
 Vamp circular 59 
 
 Vamps, Concerning men's 85 
 
 Vamps, Grading width of, on grading ma- 
 chine not correct 135 
 
 Vamps, Men's right and left 87 
 
 Vamp, Seamless or whole foxed ... .28 
 
 Vamp, The closed heel 87 
 
 Welt shoes S4> 57 
 
 Whole foxed vamp 28 
 
 Whole quarters 60 
 
 Widths have a family resemblance ... 126 
 
 Woman's leather Congress 44 
 
 Woman's opera slippers, Of the work on . 75 
 
ESTABLISHED 1878. 
 
 0. A. MILLER, Proprietor. 
 
 MANUFACTURERS OF 
 
 Solid Wood Lasts, 
 
 Patent jointed Last?, 
 
 Solid and Split Followers, 
 
 Hollow Fillers, 
 
 Innersole Patterns, 
 
 The Miller 
 
 Men's Twin Treeing Machines, 
 
 Women's Twin Treeing; Machines, 
 
 MANUFACTURERS OF 
 
 Miller's Twin Treeino- Machines 
 
 for 
 
 Men's and Women's Shoes, 
 
 Split Tree Feet, 
 
 and other 
 
 Treers' Specialties. 
 
 Barry Hinged Split Followers, 
 
 Baker Solid Split Followers, 
 
 NORTHAMPTON, ENG. BROCKTON, MASS., U.S.A. 
 
 Brockton and Arthur Streets, 
 
 J. HOOLEY, nanager. 
 
 BOSTON OFFICE, 
 
 82 Lincoln Street. 
 
 Agencies in France, Germany and Australia. 
 
JUL 27 ia99 
 
UNITED SHOE 
 MACHINERY CO. 
 
 MANUFACTURERS AND LICENSORS OF THE 
 FOLLOWING NOTED SHOE MACHINERY ; 
 
 The Goodyear Shoe Machinery System, 
 The McKay Shoe Machinery Specialties : 
 
 RAPID STANDARD SCREW MACHINE, 
 
 UNIVERSAL SLUGGING MACHINE, 
 
 LOOSE NAILING MACHINE, 
 
 TWIN TAPER NAIL TACKING MACHINE, 
 
 STAPLE FASTENING MACHINE, 
 
 NEW RAPID HEEL LOADING AND ATTACHING MACHINE, 
 
 ROTARY HEEL TRIMMING AND RANDING MACHINE, 
 
 SPRING HEEL TRIMMING MACHINE. 
 
 The Consolidated, Chase, McKay Gopeland, and 
 Boston Lasting Machines, 
 
 The Davey and McKay Peggers, 
 
 The Eppler Welt System, 
 
 The Goddii Metal Fastening System. 
 
 ADDRESS 
 
 McKAY SHOE MACHINERY DEPARTMENT, 86 Lincoln Street, Boston. 
 GOODYEAR SHOE MACHINERY DEPARTMENT, 100-104 Bedford Street, Boston. 
 GENERAL OFFICES AND LASTING MACHINERY DEPT.,111 Lincoln St., Boston, U.S.A. 
 
 'r™=r UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CD, 'r-r 
 
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
 iiil III III ill I III I I 
 
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