Df'ji^rTi'^ 
 
liil 
 
NORTH AMEiv 
 
 IN THE YEARS 
 
 1804, 1805, & 1806, 
 
 BY 
 
 ROBERT feUTCLIFF^ 
 
 N 
 
 PHILADELPHIA : 
 
 PUBLISHED BY B. & T. KITE, 
 ^"o. 20, North Third Street; - 
 
 1812. 
 
 rm 
 
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 v 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 .,ii 
 
 THE narrative and observations now pre- 
 sented to the public, were the fruits of a voyage 
 undertaken solely with commercial views. 
 They were written without any expectation of 
 their being copied, and without the remotest 
 thought of publication. But falling acciden- 
 tally under the notice of the Editor, he was 
 pleased with perusing them, and believed that, 
 if printed, they would also be agreeable to 
 many otliers. He accordingly communicated 
 this idea to the writer, who, after considering 
 the subject, with a proper degree of modesty, 
 consented to the proposal. 
 
 If the reader should derive amusement or 
 instruction from this work, he will naturally 
 wish to know something respecting the author. 
 He is the second son of the late Doctor Abra- 
 ham Sutcliff, who practised, with much skill 
 and reputation, as a physician, in Sheffield, and 
 who died there about twelve years since. At 
 Sheffield, the author, who was born and edu- 
 
cated in the religious Society of Friends, ser-j 
 ved his apprenticeship ; and afterwards settled 
 there in business as a merchant. In this line 
 fee continued for several years, and dealt exten- 
 sively with transatlantic connexions ; which, 
 after some time, rendered it expedient for him 
 to make two voyages to America, for the set- 
 tlement of his affairs. The latter voyage and 
 travels subsequent lo it, comprise the trans- 
 actions which are now offered to the public. 
 
 In the year 1806, the author returned to 
 England, and continued there till the year 
 .1811; when he conceived that a residence in 
 America, might prove more advantageous to 
 him. He accordingly, with his wife and one 
 daughter, the only surviving child of a very 
 numerous family, embarked for New- York, 
 in the sixth month last, with the view of 
 settling in that country. 
 
 Whilst the author was in America, he had 
 frequent intervals of leisure, which the nature 
 of his mercantile concerns rendered unavoida- 
 ble. Of some of these opportunities he avail- 
 ed himself, to \isit his connexions and friends 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 in various parts of the country ; having also 
 the view of gratifying his curiosity, and en- 
 larging the sphere of his information. Being 
 a man of observation, of a strong memory and 
 benevolent disposition, and having formed an 
 extensive acquaintance with respectable per- 
 sons in America, by whom he was treated 
 with kindness and attention ; he seems to have 
 been qualified to render an account of his tra- 
 vels both pleasing and interesting. The Edi- 
 tor therefore ventures to presume, that many 
 of the remarks and occurrences contained in 
 this little volume, will prove useful as well as 
 amusing to juvenile readers ; and that they will 
 not be destitute of information to persons of 
 mature years. The narrative appears to be 
 judicious, and is given with great simplicity ; 
 and the Editor has not the least doubt of 
 its strict veracity. The anecdotes rise na- 
 turally from the subject, and are generally 
 of a curious, novel, and instructive na- 
 ture. Thev are numerous, and form a pe- 
 culiar and striking feature of the work. 
 On the whole, the Editor persuades himself, 
 that these travels will not be unacceptable to 
 the generality of readers. 
 9thMonthy 1811, 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER 1. 
 
 The author leaves home— Peak in Derbyshii-e— -Manchester- 
 Liverpool-— Transactions before the voyage — Sets sail from 
 that port — Occurrences on the voyage — Arrival at New- 
 York— - Page 1—23 
 
 CHAPTER n. 
 
 New-York— Philadelphia — Account of the Mamoth — Norris- 
 Town — Sprin^-iVIill Ferry — Phiiadelphiii — Burlington — Am- 
 boy — New- York — Bnltimore — Washington — Alexandria — 
 
 Pa^e 24—46 
 
 CHAPTER HI. 
 
 Port-Tobacco — Fredericks burgh — Richmond — Negro trial— 
 
 Gouchluiid — FrederioKsburgti — Effects of Negro Slavery on 
 
 ..the Whites — Mount Vernon — George Town — Baltimore— 
 
 randy-Wme — Wilmington — Philadelphia — Jt^age 47 62 
 
 CHAPTER ly. 
 
 Occurrences, &c. in Philadelphia, during a stay of several 
 Months— Payees— 76 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Burlington — Allentown — New- York — Bristol— Philadelphia- 
 Yearly Meeting there— - ^ . . Pa^e 7T—d4, 
 
Viii CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Philadelphia, &c. — Trenton — New-York — Burlington — Philadel- 
 phia — NewciisUe — Baltimore — Washington — Richmond — 
 Alexandria — Contrast between Pennsylvania and the States 
 cultivated by Slaves - . - - Page 85 — 99 
 
 CHAPTER VH. 
 
 Washington — Frederick Town — York Town— Columbia — ^Lan- 
 caster — Merion— Radnor — - - - Po,ge 100 — 108 
 
 ' CHAPTER Vm. 
 
 Haverford — -Leaves Merion — Borden Town — Amboy — New- 
 York — Hudson — Nine Partner's Quarterly Meeting — Hudson 
 —Albany— Troy-- Page 109—128 
 
 . CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Genesee Country — Utica — Brothertown — Indian Tale— The Or- 
 chard — Indian Inn — Lakes Skaneatedes, Owasco, Seneca, 
 and Canandarque — An Atheist — Holland Land Company- 
 Prairies — Page 129—148 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Buffalo Town — Fenning'S Tavern — Falls of Niagara — Black 
 Creek — Fort Erie — Batavia — Vandeventer's Inn — Gansers 
 Tavern — Lake Seneca— Tioga Point — Eldridge's Tavern— 
 Elkland's— Muncy — Cattawessy — Roaring Creek — Maiden 
 Creek— Betlilehem— Falmouth— Merion — Page 149—175 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 Merion — Cruel murder of a black boy — A few lines addressed 
 to the authoi''s family — Preservation of a ship's company — 
 Baltimore— Emigrants from Germany and Holland — Elk- 
 cidgfe— Company of Slaves — Washington— A faithful Slave- 
 
 Pagc 176—194 
 
CONTENTS. iX 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Baltimore— Gunpowder Falls—Mary Stroud— Civilizing the In- 
 dians—Negro boy Sado— Battle of Brandyvvine, and events 
 in the neighbourhood— Westgrove— Another Negro boy— 
 Merion— Occurrences there, &c.— General Moreau— A Ne- 
 gro Slave who had been liberated— Dr. Franklin— 
 
 Page 159—222 
 
 CHAPTER Xni. 
 
 Woodside— Account of Captain H— Substitute for Soap— Year- 
 ly Meeting at Philadelphia— Merion Meeting-house— Vio- 
 lent tempest-"Dreadful massacre of Conestoga Indians — 
 
 Pa^e 223—340 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Dunkers— A barn— Piazzas— Management of Sheep— Merion— 
 Eclipse of the sun— Summer dress— James Simpson— Chad 
 fishery— Bee-eater— Wild grapes— Crab cider— Hogs— Fire 
 flies— Paper mills— Chestnut tree— Harvest— Ancient Deed — 
 J. Rowland— Wood felling— Indian corn— Pa^e 241—259 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Several brief narrations— Occurrences relative to the author's 
 voyage home, &c.— Iron works— Two German families— Mar- 
 ble Quari-y— A farm— Emigrants— Taking leave of hs friends 
 about Merion, intending for New-York— Occurrences on the 
 journey— Embarks for England— Cabin company— Occurren- 
 ces on the voyage— ,...-. .v i*a^ff 2^ 
 
TRAVELS 
 
 IN 
 
 NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 The author leaves hQme,~-^Peak in Derbyshire^- 
 Manchester — Liverpool — Transactions before th 
 voyage — Sets sail from thtt port. — OccjirrenCf^ 
 on the voyage. — Arrival at New-Tork, 
 
 A 
 
 %2d of the Sth^ Months 1804. 
 
 FTER having taken leave of my relations and 
 friends in Sheffield, I left home with my wife and 
 children. As bur road lay through Castleton, we 
 visited Peak's Hole, which was a great gratification 
 
 * To those who may not be accustomed to designate the 
 
 Months by their numerical names, the following Table may 
 
 be useful : 
 
 The 1st is commonly called January 
 
 2d • . . February. 
 
 od March. 
 
 4th April. 
 
 5th May. 
 
 6th June, 
 
 7Ui July. 
 
 8th August. 
 
 9th September. 
 
 lUth October. 
 
 llth Novenjber. 
 
 12th • December. 
 
 A 
 
2 TRAVEI. S IN 
 
 to the children, who had never before seen a natural 
 curiosity of equal interest. The habitations within 
 the cavern, with the maiiufactory of pack-thread 
 that was carrying on there, had a very singular and 
 striking effect, which had something in it more like 
 a dream or a vision, than a transaction of real life. 
 Yet I did not perceive on the countenances of 
 those who were employed in this subterraneous 
 abode, less appearance of being happy or cheerful, 
 than we see upon the faces we meet in the crowd- 
 ed streets of towns and cities:— -Such is the force 
 of habit. 
 
 After taking some refreshment, we set out upon 
 our next stage; and, believing it would be some 
 relief to the horses, I walked up the Winyards, 
 which, though a laborious walk, is far from being 
 an unpleasant one. This is, perhaps, one of the 
 most romantic roads in this country, on account of 
 the steep and lofty mountains through which it 
 winds its way; and, after having ascended the 
 summit, a very different scenery is presented to 
 the view : The most fruitful and populous part of 
 the coun ies of Lancaster and Chester lying in 
 full prospect before the eyes of the traveller, pre- 
 sents something like the appearance of one vast 
 city intermixed with fields and woods. 
 
 In the evening, we arrived safe at Manchester. 
 There we were hospitably entertained at the house 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 of T. H. jun. and were kindly shown through his 
 bleaching, dying, and printing works. We were 
 also shown a beautiful collection of dryed speci- 
 mens of herbs, flowers, &c. the production of 
 Botany Bay. These he had received from an 
 ingenious ypung man who had been transported 
 into that country when but a boy on a charge 
 of pilfering ; of which, I understood, it was ge- 
 nerally believed he was innocent. His habits of 
 industry and care did not forsake him, although 
 thrown amongst such a set of companions as Bota- 
 ny Bay and a Transport Ship may be supposed to 
 furnish ; and, in a few years, he had acquired 
 property to a considerable amoynt. 
 
 5th Mouthy 2od, Having concluded to take our 
 passage in one of the packet-boats which go be- 
 tween Manchester and Warrington, T. H. kindly- 
 accommodated us with his sociable to the water- 
 side. We got into the packet, and had a pleasant 
 sail nearly to Warrington, where we dined, being 
 about 18 miles. This is an easy mode of travelling 
 both as to expense and fatigue ; and when upon a 
 canal like t*hat of the Duke of Bridgewater's, and 
 in such a country as that through which we 
 sailed this day, the weather at the same time being 
 fine and clear, it could scarcely be otherwise than 
 very pleasant. In the evening we arrived at 
 Liverpool, and took up our quarters at our cousin 
 T. B.'s, 
 
TRAVELS IN 
 
 Sth Month, 24th and 25th^ were spent at Liver- 
 pool, in preparation for my intended voyage to 
 America. 
 
 5th Month, 26th, Being the first day of the week, 
 we attended the meetings at Liverpool, and spent 
 the rest of the day at our Cousin A. B/s, at Mile- 
 end, near Liverpool ; where we had the company of 
 Captain R, B. of the Romulus, an agreeable, con- 
 sistent friend, from Hudson City, in the State of 
 New- York. 
 
 Sth Month, 27th. In the morning cousin T. B, 
 kindly conducted me to the Lyceum j a splendid 
 public establishment of the nature of a news-room 
 or coffee-house, and library. Afterwards, accom- 
 panied by my wife and children, we paid a visit to 
 the Asylum for the Blind ; an institution well wor- 
 thy the support of the wealthy, where many persons 
 who have lost their sight, are instructed in various 
 branches of business, by which they are enabled to 
 pass their time usefully, and agreeably to them- 
 selves. After visiting this institution, we walked 
 to the Botanic Garden. Our relation being a sub- 
 scriber, had the privilege of introducing us as 
 strangers ; and we spent a pleasant hour or two, 
 having, in the compass of a few acres of land, an 
 opportunity of seeing a vast variety of plants, flow- 
 ers, shrubs, and trees, natives of every quarter of the 
 world, alive and flourishing as in the countries 
 from which they are brought. Amongst them I 
 noticed the banana and the sugar cane. 
 
NbRTH AMERICA. 
 
 After visiting these noble institutions, our feel- 
 ings were harrowed by seeing an unfeeling press- 
 gang dragging along a friendless poor man, whom 
 they had just hunted down in the streets. 
 
 5th Month 2^th. This day I paid a visit to 
 Captain N. onboard his ship called the Laura; 
 and after some conversation with him and his 
 agent, J. C. concluded to take my passage in her 
 to New- York ; for which I paid 35 guineas. 
 
 Sth Month, '^.^th. In the afternoon of this day, 
 I was requested by the Captain to be in readmess 
 to go on board in the evening ; accordingly, after 
 taking leave of my wife, children, and hospitable 
 relations, I went on board, accompanied by my 
 fellow-passengers, who were J. W. jun. and J. L. 
 both of Philadelphia; J. F. of Leeds, and W. W. 
 of New Orleans. After sleeping that night on 
 board, the wind proving contrary, and there being 
 no appearance of a change, we all came on shore 
 in the morning, and I returned to my wife and 
 children. Th s was, I believe, an agreeable disap- 
 pointment to ail of us, as the prospect of so long a 
 voyage, and the probability that we might never 
 see each other more, on this side the grave, had sat 
 rather heavily upon some of our minds at parting 
 the evening before ; and now, to have almost a 
 certainty of spending another day with my wife, 
 
 A 2 
 
TRAVELS IN 
 
 children, and near relatives, seemed to me a privi- 
 lege almost invaluable. 
 
 5th Months 30th, I spent this day with my wife 
 and children, in the family of my kind relatives, 
 and so pleasant it was to me, that it was like the 
 addition of one day to my being in the world, 
 
 5th Months Z\st, This morning my wife and 
 children, with part of cousin B.'s family, and 
 M. M. of Rochdale, accompanied me on board 
 the Laura, then lying about a mile from Liverpool, 
 near the Cheshire shore. As our boat passed by 
 the Princess, a ship of war, then lying in the 
 Mersey, we were a little entertained by the ship's 
 crew being ordered to man the rigging, just as we 
 were along side of them. In a few moments after 
 the word of command was given, the shrouds of 
 every mast appeared covered with seamen, from the 
 deck to the heads of the masts ; having the ap» 
 pearance of three lofty pyramids ; each beginning 
 with a file of men at the bottom, and finishing at 
 the top with a single individual. After spending 
 about an hour, and taking some refreshment on 
 board the L ura, we all returned safe to Liverpool, 
 where I slept this night. 
 
 \st of &th Months 1804. The wind becoming 
 more favorable, we received orders to be ready 
 to go on board again in the evening ; so I again 
 took leave of my wife and children j but as I had 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 7 
 
 before to return on shore, and the winds con- 
 tinued variable, there was a piobability that I 
 might have to return to them again in the morn- 
 ing. These circumstances took away a little of the 
 edge of our anxiety at parting, and rendered it not 
 quite so formidable as our first taking leave on the 
 29th ult. My cousin T. B. and W. B. accom- 
 panied us to the water-side, where a boat was 
 waiting for us. We got safe to the vessel, which 
 lay at anchor the whole of this night. The next 
 morning, being 6th Month, 2d, as the seamen 
 were raising the anchor, we were visited by R. B. 
 who kindly came at six o'clock in the morning 
 to inquire after our welfare. What little wind 
 we had was favourable ; and it being a clear and 
 beautiful s mmers day, the town ot Liverpool, 
 and country on both sides the Mersey, appeared 
 to great advantage as we sailed down the river. 
 
 After passing a little way into the Irish Channel 
 our Captain sent away the Pilot. On the Pilot's 
 leaving our ship, the captain requested that when 
 he got to his own vessel he would not present our 
 seamen with a bottle of spirits as was commonly 
 done in such cases, alledging that his men were 
 already so intoxicated they were scarcely able 
 to work the ship. This circumstance, though 
 seemingly of small importance, had nearly been of 
 serious consequence to us; and, for a time, there 
 seemed some danger of a mutiny amongst the 
 
8 TRAVELS IN 
 
 men. Such was the sourness which it produced, 
 that, during the whole voyage, they sullenly re- 
 fused the customary allowance from the Captain, 
 of a bottle of brandy at the end of every week ; 
 and, at one time, a ringleader in the business, who 
 had formerly served on board a ship of war, 
 broke out into very abusive language to the Cap- 
 tain, and treated him in such a manner that there 
 was some danger of the Captain firing his pistol 
 at him, I was sorry to find that this man had 
 been favoured with an education in our Society; 
 and that his mother was a valuable friend. Not- 
 withstanding his bad conduct towards the Captain, 
 he always behaved with kindness and attention 
 to me whenever I came in his way, and when I 
 spoke to him, which I did several times, endea- 
 vouring to convince him of the impropriety of 
 his conduct, in thus doing his utmost to break in 
 upon that subordination which was necessary to be 
 maintained in every ship. 
 
 After the pilot had left us, we proceeded along 
 the Welch coast, having the mountains of North 
 Wales in full view during the whole of the day. 
 The weather being calm and clear, it is scarcely 
 in the power of words to describe the grandeur 
 of the prospect, which indeed was such that 
 we could hardly regret the slow progress we 
 made. In the afternoon, when opposite one of 
 the highest mountains, we were alarmed by the 
 
NORTH AMF.RICA. 9 
 
 Boise of a very heavy discharge of cannon, from 
 one or two vessels which were some distance 
 a-head of us. At first we supposed it to be an 
 engagement between an English and a French 
 privateer; but, on coming nearer, we had reason 
 to believe they were two slave ships, which had left 
 Liverpool a little before us, and had taken the 
 opportunity of scaling their great guns, and exer- 
 cising their m^n, when in a situation that would 
 produce the greatest echo and noise ; a disposition 
 very prevalent in the world. 
 
 The night coming on, the beautiful and romantic 
 Welch scenery was hid from us, and, next mofiHug, 
 having made but little progress during- the night, 
 we found ourselves nearly opposite to Holyhead. 
 Having been favoured with a smooth sea, we 
 escaped sickness, and sat down to breakfast with 
 some appetite. Before we rose from table, a ship 
 that was coming up the Channel, put out her boat 
 and made a signal to speak with us. Our vessel 
 was accordingly managed in a way to put them 
 to as little trouble as possible ; and they soon 
 reached us. On their coming onboard, we found the 
 ship was the Liverpool, from New- York to Liver- 
 pool ; and the Captain being an old acquaintance 
 of the Master of our ship, they were rejoiced to 
 see each other . After an exchange of intelligence 
 and news papers, we parted from her, and sailed 
 slowly round the head of Holy -head, and soon had 
 
10 TRAVELS IN 
 
 a fine prospect of Caernarvon Bay ; but before the 
 evening closed, the sky was overcast, and the wind 
 got up, so that we were under the necessity of tak- 
 ing in^a great part of our sails ; and several of us 
 began to be very sick. 
 
 In the course of the night, which was very dark, 
 the wind became contrary ; and it was with great 
 difficulty we got through the narrow part of the 
 Channel, near St. David's Head, without fairly 
 putting back towards Liverpool. Tixe passage 
 was not accomplished, without several times tack- 
 ing from one coast to the other; and, could I have 
 had the management, I would gladly have put the 
 ship into Milford Haven, and did advise the Captain 
 to do it. However, we had cause to be thankful 
 that we got well out of this narrow sea, although 
 not without imminent danger of losing our cabin- 
 boy, who was washed overboard as he was carry- 
 ing the knives and forks from the caboose to the 
 cabin ; but, in passing through the railing, he got 
 entangled among some ropes which hung from 
 
 the rail, and was thus providentially preserved. 
 Nearly our whole stock of table knives and forks 
 were lost, which was a great inconveniency to us, 
 especially being just at the commencement oi our 
 voyage ; however I did not regret the loss of the 
 knives arid forks, seeing the boy's life was preserv- 
 ed. This accident made so strong an impression 
 upon the pcor lad, that he never recovered his spi- 
 rits during the voyage. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. U 
 
 Our first mate being an active man, made us a 
 few table forks from an old barrel hoop, using the 
 anchor as an anvil. These, with our pocket- 
 knives, served as a substitute for those we had lost. 
 This little occurrence manifests the propriety of 
 passengers providing themselves each with an extra 
 knife and fork. 
 
 About two days after this, we got clear of both 
 the English and Irish coast, and made a rapid 
 progress on our way across the Atlantic. There 
 seemed every probability of our being favoured 
 with a short passage ; but, in a voyage at sea, as in 
 the voyage of life, it often happens that our pros- 
 pects are not realized. 
 
 After about two weeks of fair wind in the gene- 
 ral, we began to experience hard gales, and from 
 unfavourable quarters ; so that for a week or ten 
 days, we made but little way. The patience of our 
 Captain being a good deal tried, and his temper 
 somewhat soured, he was liable to use harsh lan- 
 guage to his people, and particularly to a black 
 man who was steward of the ship. On one occasion, 
 the ship had laid to for several hours, not being 
 able to carry any sail, excepting a single one to 
 steady her. In this state she was left to drift be- 
 fore the wind, which wa^i then, to use the Captain's 
 expression, blowing* a hurricane, and she was of 
 course a good deal agitated. The waves, according 
 
12 TRAVELS IN 
 
 to the seamen's phrase, were running mountains 
 high. It happened, under these circumstances, that 
 one of th.j passengers, by a sudden roll of the ves- 
 sel, was near being thrown down the stairs into the 
 cabin ; but, catching hold of the mahogany hand- 
 rail, he saved himself at the expense of breaking 
 the rail. This the Captain did not observe till night 
 when we were all seated in the cabin. Then 
 he fell upon the poor black man, with vio- 
 lent and abusive language, charging him with 
 breaking the rail. After his passion was somewhat 
 subsided, I told him that 1 was a witness that the 
 black man was innocent of what he had charged 
 him with ; that, considering the kind of day we had 
 passed over, there was great cause to be thankful no 
 other damage had been sustained than the breaking 
 of the hand rail, and that, so far from giving way to 
 passion at trifling things in such a time as this, our 
 minds ought rather to be impressed with gratitude, 
 that we had been providentially preserved through 
 the storm. 
 
 At first, the Captain seemed offended at my free- 
 dom, and turned from me in displeasure. Nothing 
 more was said at that time ; however, after we were 
 all in bed, and the passengers mostly asleep, he 
 called to me, and, on my answering him, he said, 
 that he was convinced of the justice of my obser- 
 vations ; was obliged to me (or the hints I had 
 dropped, and that he was sorry tor his having 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 13 
 
 given way to passion, when far other sentiments 
 ought to have possessed his mind. This acknow- 
 ledgement was ingenuous on the part of the Cap- 
 tain ; and I believe he slept no worse for it. 
 
 In the course of the day, when the weather had 
 cleared up, altho' the wind still blew very hard, and 
 the waves were rolling along in awful grandeur ; 
 while the ship was yet lying to and drifting before 
 the wind, the other passengers and myself went upon 
 the upper part of the quarter deck, that we might 
 have a full view of the sea when thus agitated, and 
 appearing in all its majesty. There is something in 
 such a scene exceedingly humiliating. The most 
 powerful of men, when thus baffled, and riding on 
 the waves, every moment in danger of being swal- 
 lowed up, are indeed but " as the small dust of the 
 balance." Every sensible mind, when placed in 
 situations like these, must be alive to the senti- 
 ment which that expression conveys. As we thus 
 stood admiring how every wave, after rolling 
 along in majestic greatness, seemed to break at 
 our feet before it reached the ship, the first mate, 
 who was on the watch, called out aloud, for every 
 one to take care of himself. Observing that he ran 
 and placed himself under the quarter boards, near 
 one of the stansions, I immediately followed his 
 example, and, taking fast hold of the ropes, sat 
 down by him ; which I had scarcely done before one 
 
 B 
 
14 TRAVELS IN 
 
 of these huge Waves rolled completely over the ship ; 
 and we were, for a short timt;, overwhelmed by it. 
 Such was the force with which it struck the ship, 
 that she reeled to the other side, ami really trembled 
 under the stroke. One of the passengers having his 
 t)ack towards it, and not hearing the mate's warning, 
 was struck down with so nfiiicli violence^ and pre- 
 cipitated to the other side of the vessel with so much 
 force, that his head, striking against one of the 
 quarter boards, broke the board in pieces ; and a 
 pair of CiOth pantaloons which he held in h^s hands 
 at the time were washed overboard. Indeed we had 
 ^ great cause to be thankful to Divine Providence, 
 that we escaped wi.hout fu ther loss or damage ; and 
 it was matter of admiration to me, that. Whilst buri- 
 ed in the wave, my mind was preserved from any 
 considerable fear or anxiety as to tne consequences. 
 
 At this time, we were, I believe, in the gulf 
 stream ; for as the water passed ovv r us, it felt as 
 warm as new milk. The ship reeled so much to 
 one side, at the stroke of the sea, that we had a 
 second immersion as she righted, after recovering 
 from the shock. As it had blown a hard gale all 
 the preceding night, the ocean was become so very 
 rough pretty early in the morning, that a heavy sea 
 broke through the cabin windows, and rolled into 
 the beds on one side of the ship ; which occasioned 
 a great alarm ; and I have seldoni s^en men rise 
 more quickly from their beds than our companions 
 
NORTH, AMERICA. 15 
 
 did on that side of the cabin. | A little time after the 
 storm had subsided, and the sea was become calm, 
 we were entertained with the sight of a number of 
 flying fish, which, from time to time, continued 
 'to rif>e out of the sea, and after taking short flights, 
 dropped again ixito the water. These flying fish 
 appeared to be pursued by a number of dolphins, 
 which, for a considerable time, kept company with 
 the ship, so as to give us a full opportunity of ob- 
 serving their beautil\d colours, continually changing 
 to the various tints of azure, green and gold. The 
 gold fishes, which we see confined in glass jars, are 
 very beautiful ; but not at all to be compared with 
 the dolphin, which is, besides a much larger fish ; 
 generally weiging 8 or 10 pounds. Our seamen 
 caught several of them, and we found them very 
 good eating. Although the colours of the dolphin 
 are exceedingly beautiful while alive and in motion 
 in the sea, yet they are still more extraordinary when 
 the fish is taken out of the water, and is in the 
 agonies of death displaying then, every colour of 
 the rainbow, changing in rapid succession as loivg 
 as life remains. As the dolphins were in pursuit 
 of the flying fish, so the dolphins in their turn were 
 pursued by the sharks ; and such is the activity of 
 these voracious animals in seizing their prey, that, 
 whilst one of our pople was drag;;ing up a dolphin, 
 as quickly as he possibly could, a huge shark put up 
 his monstrous jaws and snatched the fish from the 
 hook. 
 
16 TRAVELS IN 
 
 The voracious shark also had his enemies ; for 
 the sailors by throwing out pieces of meat, enticed 
 him to come so near the ship, that one of the com- 
 pany who stood upon the main-chains had an op- 
 portunity of casting the noose of a strong rope over 
 his head ; and the other end of the rope being pas- 
 sed through a block, he was quickly hoisted upon 
 deck, where he lay some time striking the boards 
 with his tail with great violence. It^as curious to 
 see the agitation of the little pilot fishes, which ac- 
 companied the shark ; and when he was dragged 
 out of the water, they seemed to ^use their best 
 endeavours to follow him. 
 
 The pilot fish is something like the mackerel ; 
 but of a smaller size. On the shark's being thrown 
 upon the deck, several sucking fish fell from him 
 about 8 or 10 inches in length. These fishes, I 
 should suppose, are a considerable annoyance to the 
 shark, sticking close to various parts of his body 
 like a leech. The Captain not being willing that he 
 shouM be killed, on account of the dirt and disagree- 
 able smell that he would make j and the sailors not 
 being willing that he should escape punishment, 
 wantonly tied a piece of wood about the size of a 
 common oar to his tail, and then hoisted him again 
 and let him into the sea. Notwithstanding he had 
 been out of the water more than a quarter of an 
 hour, the moment he reached the sea, he dived 
 into the deep with the incumbrance at his tail. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. . 17 
 
 apparently with the greatest ease, and was out of 
 sight in a few seconds. 
 
 Of the various kinds ol fishes we saw on our pas- 
 sage, porpoises were the most common. They are 
 large, weighing from 20 to 30 stone j yet we fre- 
 quently saw large shoals of them extending as far 
 as the eye coald reach, and all driving along in 
 one direction ; frequently leaping quite out of the 
 water, and often passing close by the ship, so as to 
 afford the sailors an opportunity of striking them 
 with the harpoon and dragging them on board. 
 Some of the people, I observed, were partial to 
 the heart and liver of this fish when fried, as- 
 serting that they were scarcely to be distinguished 
 from those of a hog when dressed in the same 
 way. At one time we were entertained by the 
 sight of several whales, five of which passed close 
 to the ship, sporting and rolling along within a 
 few yards of us; making a loud noise in snorting 
 and spouting up the water from a hole in their 
 foreheads. These creatures were of large bulk, 
 and appeared exceedingly fat and sleek ; their 
 skins shining as if varnished. 
 
 Although there ,,does not appear any place of 
 rest for fowls in the wide ocean, yet numbers of 
 them are daily seen riding light pieces of cork on 
 the loftiest waves, and in the most tempestuous 
 
 B 2 
 
IS TRAVELS IN 
 
 weather. These are mostly of the petril tribe, 
 although sea-gulls are often seen at a great dis- 
 tance from land, especially on the banks of New- 
 foundland and in approaching them. 
 
 In passing these banks it is wonderful to see the 
 thick fog which generally prevails, so that, in a morn- 
 ing, the rigging and sai.s of the ship would be drip- 
 ping wet, as though they had been in a heavy shaw- 
 er during the night. In addition, the weather was 
 so cold ihat it was very uncomfortable to be without 
 fire, although it was the middle of summer, and 
 we were many degrees more to the southward 
 than England. These heavy fogs when seen at a 
 distance had many times much the appearance of 
 land ; and about the time of the setting sun, they 
 presented a great variety of appearances. Some- 
 times we might imagine we had the sight of a 
 splendid city, wnh towers, domes, and steeples, 
 rising belore us; and, in a wiiiL, the whole would 
 entirely vanish, and leave nothing to be seen but 
 the wide extended ocean, bounded by the horizon. 
 
 Being detained nearly two weeks in the gulf 
 stream, by light and contrary winds, our Captain 
 began to be anxious about the provisions and water, 
 in consequence of which he put the men upon their 
 allowance of beef and pork, which were now 
 handed to them by weight ; and we ourselves were 
 prohibited the use of fresh water, in washing our 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 19 
 
 hands and faces, and were obliged to use the sea 
 water which is far from being pleasant. Besides, 
 having had a considerable loss by the breakage of 
 ale and porter bottles, owing to their having been 
 put up when the liquor was new, the passengers 
 and officers of the ship were obliged to submit to 
 a certain allowance of these articles; and we now 
 began to be more frugal of our fresh provisions 
 than heretofore. 
 
 While our time was thus passing on in the gulf 
 stream, we were under some apprehensions of be- 
 ing carr'ed out of our course by the current; and 
 the sea being often as smooth as a fish-pord, we 
 occasionally hoisted out the boat, and taking an 
 iron pot, let it down into the sea, by which means 
 the direction of the current was ascertained. 
 Seme of us were at the trouble of sealing up a 
 bottle, inclosing a paper containing the lattitude 
 and longitude ; and, adding our names and places 
 of abode, we requested that the person who 
 might pick it up would inform any of the parties. 
 Although we had no great expectation of hearing 
 more of the bottle after it was thrown into the 
 sea, yet I had not been long in America before 
 the paper was handed to me, having been picked 
 upon the sands near Newport, in Rhode Island. 
 Thus, contrary to the received opinion respecting 
 the current of the gulf stream, it had been carried 
 in a north-westerly direction. There seemed n9 
 
20 TRAVELS IN 
 
 way of accounting for this circumstance, but by 
 supposing that the action of the wind had made 
 
 the bottle deviate from the course of the stream. 
 
 * 
 
 Having considerable time on our hands, we 
 amused ourselves in little experiments of this sort. 
 Several times we sunk well-corked empty bottles 
 to a considerable depth into the sea ; and although 
 great care was taken to have the corks tight and 
 sealed, yet it was invariably the case, when dra^v^l 
 up again, that the corks were found pushed into 
 the bottles, or that the bottles had filled with water 
 by its passing through the pores of the cork. I have 
 already observed that the water in the gulf stream 
 was warm as new milk ; but on sinking a ther- 
 mometer some depth in the sea, and hastily draw- 
 ing it up again, we found that the water below was 
 as cold as in any other part. 
 
 After a tedious time spent in the gulf stream, we 
 at length arrived on the coastof North America ; 
 and on 1st day morning, the 29th of the 7th Month, 
 we were favoured with the sight of Long Island. 
 A little after noon, we ran close in shore, so much 
 so that the ship was hastily put about, or she 
 would have touched the bottom in a few minutes ; 
 for, in turning round, she raked up the mud 
 so much as to discolour the water to a con- 
 siderable degree ; however we were soon in deep 
 water aguin. Thus, after having been for 8 weeks 
 
NORTH AMERICA. ' 21 
 
 at sea, where the eye had been almost wearied with 
 a continued sameness of prospects, and after hav- 
 ing had, for several hours, the delightful prospect 
 of farm-houses and plantations, we again launched 
 into the wide ocean. To be thus snatched from 
 green fields and woods, and cheerful habitations, 
 was a trial of patience to some of our companions ; 
 and, all the afternoon, I noticed an anxious looking 
 towards the land, in most of us. 
 
 The next morning, about four o'clock, 7th 
 Month, 30th, I was waked by the report of a 
 great gun, which was followed by considerable 
 bustle upon deck. After getting up, I understood 
 that a shot had been fired over us by an English 
 frigate, called the Boston, which, in company with 
 the Leander and Cambrian men of war, and Driver 
 sloop of v/ar, was then cruizing near us; and 
 as the cannon-ball that was fired over us, was an 
 earnest of what we might expect if we did not 
 stop to receive an officer from the frigate, the 
 topsaiis were immediately backed, and we short- 
 ened sail that they might have an opportunity of 
 coming to us. A Lieutenant and Midshipman 
 were sent on board. After spending about half 
 an hour in conversation with us, and exchanging 
 intelligence and newspapers, they left the ship ; 
 and, at parting, observed that they believed all our 
 seamen were citizens of the United States, and 
 therefore did not wish to examine themj but 
 
22 TRAVELS XN 
 
 that they hoped we would not hoist our sails until 
 we had a signal irom the frigate ; which was com- 
 plied with. 
 
 We were now again in sight of land, being near 
 Sandyhock, Having a fine view of the Jersey 
 Mountains, and it being a clear summer's morn- 
 ing, the country before us appeared excc^edingly 
 beautiful. In approaching the shore we observed 
 an appearance not less beautiful in what I believe 
 is called a land-loom. The whole country ap- 
 peared to be reflected in the atmosphere ; some- 
 thing like what we see from the banks of rivers, 
 when objects are reflected in the water. But 
 here, instead of the images appearing in the water 
 united at bottom to the objects, they were all re- 
 flected in the air, with their tops downwards ; and 
 each reflection seeming to touch the top of the 
 object reflected. 
 
 The different ships of war, which I have just 
 mentioned, made a very gay appearance; for 
 the weather being fine and clear, and but little 
 wind, they had most of their sails spread ; and 
 continued sailing to and fro before Sandyhook ; 
 the Never-sink Mountains being in the back 
 ground. Their object was to watch two French 
 frigates then lying in New-York, as the Lieutenant 
 of the Boston informed us, and, at the same time, 
 to examine all American ships in order to discover 
 if there were any oi the subjects of Great Britain 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 23 
 
 serving on board, with a view to impress them. 
 It appeared to be an arduous and delicate situa- 
 tion in which the Commander of thes j ships was 
 placed. Hav ng to fulfil the orders of his Govern- 
 ment on the one hand, and being in danger of 
 giving ofTence to the Americans on the other, it 
 seemed impossible for him to steer clear, unless 
 posse sed of a very uncommon share of prudence 
 and discretion. 
 
 In sailing up to New-York, we passed by the 
 two l^rench frigates, called the Didon and the 
 the Sybille. They appeared to be very full of men. 
 Soon after four o'clock in the afternoon, we ar- 
 rived at that city; and coming along-side the 
 wharf, we were handed on shore by J. W. who 
 kindly conducted us to our quarters, and we were 
 soon after joined by A. B. who drank tea and 
 spent the evening with us. Thus, after a pasjsage 
 of 58 days, we were favoured to land safe in 
 America, for which we have abundant cause to be 
 thankful. In passing through the streets to d'ur 
 lodgings, I was struck with the great variety 
 of fruit exposed for sale ; such as pine-apples, 
 mdons of various kinds, peaches, &c. &c. Me- 
 lons and pine-apples I bought for 3d. or 4d. each, 
 and other fruit in proportion. On goir.g to bed 
 this evening, I found that after being so long ha- 
 bituated to the motion of the ship, I could get 
 scarcely any sleep. 
 
24i ' TRAVELS m 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 J\'eiv-York. — Fhiladelfihia. — Account of the Mammoth, — 
 Korrhtoivn. — Spring Mill Ferry. — Fhiladelfihia. — 
 Burlington — 4mboy» — JVeiv- York. — Baltimore y Wash- 
 ington, — Alexandria. 
 
 7tk Month Zlst., 1804. This morning I was 
 conducted by ray companions to one of the Public 
 Baths kept in the city of New-York. These 
 Baths are upon a plan I had not seen before. On 
 each side of a long and spacious passage, is a 
 range of small rooms, in each of which is a Bath 
 sufficient to accommodate one person ; with suit- 
 able conveniences for dressing and undressing. On 
 the side of each Bath are two brass cocks, the 
 one furnishing warm and the other cold water ; so 
 that the bather may have the water at what tem- 
 perature he pleases. There is also a valve, by 
 means of which, if there is more water than is 
 pleasant, he may let part of it out. Some of these 
 Baths are made of white marble ; and are so con- 
 structed that a person may lie down or sit in them. 
 So grateful it is to remain a considerable time in 
 them, in the warm season of the year, that it 
 is a common practice for bathers to take books 
 with them to read while they thus indulge them- 
 selves in the Bath. There are also Baths in a 
 different part of the house set apart for females. 
 
^ORTH ASCKRICA, gjf 
 
 After spending a little time at the Bath, we re- 
 tufned to breakfast. On sitting down to it, I 
 jdoaild not avoid; npticing the difference there was 
 between an American and> an English breakfast 
 tables and I took out my pencil and put down the 
 different articles tha^t w^r^e on fhe table before me^ 
 ivhich were i>. tended for four persons only. The 
 articles were as follows :*--^coffee and tea, v/ithroUa^ 
 and bread and butter, broiled fish, and cutlets^ 
 huiig beef, boited eggs, a small species of lobster^ 
 radisH(ts,: and blackberries. The butter brought 
 upon the table, had -a piece of ice placed upon it, 
 which i& a general practice in tbis country, during 
 tiij« summer. This keeps the butter as cool and 
 hard as>in winter. Most of this day was spent ia 
 jjttssifig oui- luggage through the custom house ; 
 alrtd^'it is but justice to the revenue officers ia 
 this country to notice, that they are very obliging 
 in their behaviour; and, being allowed handsome 
 salaries, they are not in the practice of taking 
 fees or bribes. 
 
 ^i-Monlhy UU Beipg- invited by F. T. I ac- 
 Gortipahied hiRl- to his countrv-house, about two 
 nviles above New-York, on the East River, where 
 1' spent the evening. and slept. Being in. the heat 
 of suinmery and near the tide . watitrsy I> was con- 
 siderably annoyed wiih'muSque'uOei^ 1 returned 
 W\i\\- 3k T^ to New- York* the next morning, and, 
 
20 TRAVELS IN 
 
 after attending the monthly meeting there, dined 
 at J. B.'s» The next day 1 set out in the 
 mail stage for Philadelphia, in company with 
 J, L. and J. F. On our way, we dined at New- 
 ark, at Archibald Gilford's Tavern, and reached 
 Princeton to supper. The country we passed 
 through was pleasantly diversified with hill and 
 dale; and the luxuriant appearance of the fields 
 rf Indian corn, had a very striking effect upon one 
 who had not been much out of England. The 
 situalicms and appearances of Newark and Prince* 
 ton, are particularly beautiiul. But it was quite 
 dark before we reached Trenton, so that our 
 coachman was unable to see, his way, in driving 
 into the ferry-boat ; and the . wheels on one 
 side of the carriage passing into the boat whilst 
 those on the other side went into the Delaware, we 
 narrowly escaped a plunge into the water. The 
 passengers usually keep their seats in the carriage 
 while it is ferried over the rivers in this country ; 
 and, in general, the horses are so well trained, that 
 they are driven in and out of the boats without 
 any difficulty. On finding ourselves in this perilous 
 situation, we all got out of the carriage into the 
 boat as well as we could ; which was no very easy 
 task, as it was quite dark, and we were without 
 lamp or candle. The driver putting back his 
 horses, got clear of the boat, and in his second' 
 attempt drove fairly into it, and we crossed the 
 r^ver without further accident. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 2t 
 
 The next morning, the 4th of 8th Month, we 
 got safe to Philadelphia to breakfast. Here I 
 met with my brother J. S. and cousin T. W. whom 
 I accompanied to S. B's, in Arch-street, where 
 I took up my lodgings. The streets of Philadel- 
 phia all run parallel, or cross each other at right 
 angles, and many of them are planted with a row 
 of trees on each side. In. walking along them, I 
 was a good deal entertained with the loud, and 
 almost incessant chirping which is heard from the 
 trees in the evening, after sunset ; and which I un- 
 derstood was chiefly occasioned by the tree frog. 
 This species of frog makes its abode amongst the 
 branches of the trees, and makes a very considera- 
 ble noise iii the evening. 
 
 Bth 3Ionth^ 5th, I attended the Northern District 
 monthly meeting ; and, being kindly invited, I 
 dined and drank tea at J. W.'s, where I met with 
 R. J. — M. R.— -S. S. and T. S. The company of 
 so many friends, whom I had seen and known in 
 England, was very pleasant. 
 
 On the 6th of the 8th Month, I attended the 
 quarterly meeting for Philadelphia, which, though 
 one of the largest in America, did not continue 
 more than one hour and a half, there being but 
 little business before it, besides answering the 
 queries. As this was likely to be a XQrv abundant 
 
:JS TRAVELS IK" 
 
 fruit year, and man.y -friends had -large orchards^ 
 some individuals very pressingly cautioned them 
 against siyftering ;thdr cider to be distilled. The 
 ccncern.of friends, in this country, against the fre« 
 quentuse of spirituous liquors in their famili s, is 
 very great; and probably it is not jwithout just 
 cause. The trouble attendant on brewing and pre- 
 aerving malt liquor in warm climates is great ; and, 
 Qn the contrary, spirituous liquors are preserved 
 with so little difficulty, in so little room, and at so 
 e^isy ^(i •(CT^pens>e, that most famiies, especially in 
 the courxijry., give thjem the preference as a com* 
 axon hev^raige thrpughant the year, when diluted 
 iy,Uh wat^r. It is not from cider a)one th^y pro- 
 cure spirits. Large quantities are also dj^tillejl 
 from the juice of peaches. This is called peach 
 bra:ndy, and possesses a peculiar flavour and. colour 
 obtained from the kernels. The general price o£ 
 brandies of these kinds is about ^s. .6d. to 3s. 6d. 
 sterling per gallon; and they are, when ke^t aa 
 ^qu^l age, hut little ipferipr to French brandy.: 
 After the quarterly meeting, I dined with T, S.'a 
 family, being invited by him ; and, after dinner, 
 took a walk with him through his tan-yard. I ob- 
 served that they did not c^L^nfine themselves to oak 
 b^rk ; but made use of bark from other trees also, 
 t^ie particular kinds of which I do not recollect; 
 km I think a species of pine, called hemlock aR4 
 l^aeh^ and the walnut are pf the number. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 29 
 
 Bth Month^ 7tfu In the afternoon I accom- 
 panied some friends to take a view of the skeleton 
 of a Mammoth, which was carefully put together 
 and set up in a convenient room in the city. When 
 clothed with flesh, this animal must have been of 
 enormous bulk. The tusks were upwards of six 
 feet in. length, and the leg bones appeared about 
 the thickness of the waist of a middle sized person. 
 In comparing the bones of this animal with those 
 of an elephaat, a considerable diiference is observed, 
 particularly about the feet; those of the Mammoth 
 resembling the feet of a beast of prey more than the 
 elephant, appearing to be armed with sharp claws. 
 One of the claws, about eight inches in length, which 
 was found near the skeleton, I had in my hands. 
 An animal of such bulk, so armed, must have been 
 very destructive to the creatures around him. The 
 Indians have a tradition, that on this account the 
 Great Spirit directed that the whole species should 
 • become extinct. Near the banks of the large 
 rivers in this country, and generally near the salt 
 springs, the bones of these animals are found. In 
 the inland parts of America all kinds of cattle are 
 excessively fond of salt, and, as in other parts of 
 the world, there are here many springs whose 
 watc-rs are brackish. Contiguous to these springs, 
 the clay and earth, over which the waters have 
 ran, are impregnated with salt; and to these 
 p'aces, all kinds of wild cattle frequently resort, 
 and are seen licking the earth with great eagerness. 
 
 r. *^ 
 
so TRAVELS JN 
 
 These places are called Salt Licks, by the inhabi- 
 tants, and, on the banks of the Ohio, is a place of 
 this sort, called the Bigbone Lick, on account of 
 the great number of Mammoth bones which are 
 found buried in its vicinity. From this it seems as 
 if these enormous creatures stationed themselves 
 near the salt springs, that they might make a prey 
 of the animals which resorted to them ; and, it is 
 very probable, that the old Mammoths, in particu- 
 lar, might station themselves in places like these, 
 where, at last, they would die of old age. 
 
 The 8th and 9th were spent in Philadelphia. 
 The next day, accompanied by my brother J. S. 
 and T. W. I paid a visit to a relation at his estate 
 above Norristown, being about twenty miles from 
 Philadelphia. This plantation, consists of 300 
 acres of good land, 200 of which are cleared, 
 and 100 covered with wood. The wood land is 
 the most valuable, being so convenient for the 
 Philadelphia carpenters, &c. On the estate is a \ 
 well finished square stone house, about 15 yards in 
 length, with a wide boarded floor piazza, both in 
 back and front. These afford excellent acccm- 
 rtiodation during the summer season, whieh con- 
 tinues much longer, and in general is much \f armer,, | 
 here than in England ; as, in these piazzas, they > 
 frequently take tea and spend their evenings. 
 Besides the dwelling-house thtre is an excellent \ 
 iitcheu, and offices adjoining ; with a l^rge barn^ 
 
NORTH AMERICA- SI- 
 
 and stables sufficient ta accommodate 40 horses 
 and cows ; all well built of stone. The estate 
 extends the whole breadth betwixt the Schuylkill 
 and Perkiomen. On the former river there is a 
 Shad Fishery which is of considerable value ; and, 
 if prosecuted with spirit, might supply many fa- 
 milies with fish for the whole year. The house is 
 so situated that it commands one of the finest pro- 
 spects in Pennsylvania, and, being on a rising ground 
 is dry and healthy. The whole together forms 
 ©ne of the most beautiful spots I have seen in the 
 United States. This estate, with all its appendages, 
 cost about 3600/. sterling, which is but 12/. per 
 acre, the buildings included. There is also an ex- 
 cellent orchard of about 10 acres planted with the 
 choicest fruit-trees, which are just in their prime. 
 
 I. 
 
 This plantation was formerly in the possession 
 
 of a friend from London, of the name of Vaux, 
 
 who built the house and made the improvements 
 
 upon it. When he resided there with his family, 
 
 during the American war, being in full view of 
 
 the great American encampment at Valley Forge, 
 
 and on the opposite side of the river Schuylkill, 
 
 he had frequently the company of General Howe, 
 
 and the other British Commanders. One day it 
 
 happened that he had Howe to breakfast and 
 
 Washington to tea ; and being a friend who wished 
 
 well to all men, he made no distinction between 
 
 the contending parties, he left his hou.^e opf^r. t9 
 
SS ' TRAVELS IN 
 
 all. This was the general practice of friends dur- 
 ing the war, particularly with those who stood 
 true to the principles of their profession ; and this 
 proved the best policy ; for though attended with 
 some loss of provisions at the time, yet they were 
 generally preserved from any serious suffering in 
 their persons, by their hospitable conduct. 
 
 ^th Months i2th. This being the 1st day of the 
 week, our relation conducted us to l^rovidence 
 meeting, a few miles distant from his house. After 
 meeting we were kindly invited to dinner^ by a 
 friend who was a stranger to us. We felt and 
 acknowledged his kindness, but returned with our 
 relation, in whose family we spent the remainder 
 of the day. Notwithstanding this was the hottest 
 season of the year, we had a very liberal supply of 
 ice upon the table; which I found my relation had 
 the means of procuring without trouble or expence 
 to himself. Amongst the buildings in his purchase 
 was an ice-house, which every winter is replenish- 
 ed by some of his neighbours, for the privilege 
 of supplying themselves in the summer. I noticed 
 that the two female servants employed in the fami- 
 ly, had, both of them, been lately hired from on 
 board a vessel lying in the Delaware j and which 
 had recently arrived from Amsterdam with several 
 hundred Germans, mej^, women, and children, of 
 that description of people called, in America, Re^ 
 demptioners. These are people in lo.y cireum- 
 
WORTH AMERICA. 3^ 
 
 Stances, who, being desirous of settling ki An^erica, 
 and not having money to pay their passage, agree 
 with the Anverican Captains of vessels to be taken 
 ©ver on condition of hiring for a term of years, on 
 their arrival m America, to masters who are willing 
 to advance 10 or 12 guineas to be deducted out of 
 their wages ; and it not unfrequently happens that 
 they agree to serve two, three, or four years for 
 meat and clothes only, on condition of their pas- 
 sage being paid. Yet, as wages, in the general^ 
 are rather high in Atnt rica, it will easily be sup* 
 posed thdt an active and clever person, conversant 
 IB son>€ business, will make much better terms on 
 landing, than the old and infirm ; or than those ivho 
 come over ignorant of any business. 
 
 The two female servants I have just mentioned 
 were both widows ; and one of them had two chil- 
 dren with her in the family, who were quite young. 
 This woman had lost her husband abont the timje 
 of their arrival on the American coast; and tine 
 husband of the other, being a sea-faring man be- 
 longing to Holland, had, as I understood, lost 
 his life and property by an English ship of war. 
 Although these two females had obtained a settle- 
 ment in a country enjoying many privileges beyond 
 that which they had left ; yet, I think, no feeling 
 mind could behold them thus circumstanced, 
 placed amongst strangers of whose language they 
 were almost wholly ignorant : and habituated i9 
 
I c 
 
 S4 TRAVELS IN 
 
 customs very different from those to which they 
 had now to conform, without sensations of com- 
 passion ; and it was very pleasant to me t© observe 
 that the general deportment of my relations towards 
 them was respectful. 
 
 I noticed many families, particularly in Penn- 
 sylvania, of great respectability both in our Society 
 and amongst otheJrs, who had themselves come 
 over to this country as Redemptioners; or were 
 the children of such. And it is remarkable, that 
 the German residents in this country have a cha- 
 racter for greater industry and stability than those 
 of any other nation. 
 
 In the plantation adjoining my relation's, we 
 visited a lead mine on the banks of the Perkio- 
 men, which was then worked by a Frenchman. He 
 invited us to go down into it, where, at the depth 
 of about 12 feet, I saw a vein of lead ore 18 inches 
 in thickness ; and as it is wrought at a very easy 
 expense, there was a great piobability of its being 
 a very valuable acquisition. But these things, like 
 many others in the world, have the stamp of great 
 uncertainty upon them. 
 
 Sth Month, isth. We returned this day tb 
 Philadelphia. In our way, we stopped at the Buck 
 Tavern, where we supped and breakfasted. After 
 .breakfast we crossed the Schuylkill, at Spring Mill. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 33 
 
 Ferry, and had a sight of a vineyard of about five 
 acres, under the management of a Frenchman. 
 As the vines were not suffered to grow more than 
 three feet in height, it had something the appear- 
 ance of a field of raspberries. By the pruning 
 down the vines, the fruit, generally, becomes much 
 finer than when suffered to spread, as is commonly 
 the case in England. This day the thermometer 
 stood at 76, in the shade, at two o'clock in the 
 afternoon. I believ^e that we have sometimes as 
 hot days in England, during the summer months, 
 as are commonly felt in America ; but there be- 
 ing a much longer continuance of hot weather 
 in the latter country, it is, of course, more fa- 
 vourable for ripening various kinds of fruit. Hav- 
 ing been very kindly invited, I dined at E. Us^ 
 the father of one of our companions on the voyage 
 from Liverpool. The generous attentions I ex- 
 perienced in this family, I trust I shall not soon 
 forget. On sitting down to dinner, I found myself 
 in company with three other Englishmen, whom 
 this kind family had also invited : they were J. S. 
 of Manchester j J. N.of Wakefield j and J. F. of 
 Leeds* 
 
 Bth Monthy 14M, was employed in Philadel- 
 phia; and, after business, I drank tea and spent 
 the evening at B. J's. He was one of that little 
 band of friends who visited the South of France a 
 few years ago. 
 
iJ6 TRAVELS IB 
 
 Qth Mdnth tSih Spent part of this day at- J. 
 W.'s, where 1 had the company of R. J. and M. 
 R. The lively and cheerful flow of R. J.'s sjjirits 
 remains widi her i» her old age; no dottbt, in a 
 great measure, the result of a well-spent life ; and 
 she enjoys, in a remarkable degree, the love and es* 
 teem of her neighbours and friends. In the evening 
 I called on Wm. Savery's widow, who appeared to 
 be dejected, on account of the recent loss of a be- 
 loved husband. Few men have finished their 
 course, in the possession of more esteem and regard 
 from mankind in general ; and his mind dwelling 
 near to the Fountain of Life and Love* his charity 
 was unbounded. Exclusive of the testimony of 
 the meeting to which he belonged, I noticed a num- 
 ber of tributes to his memory, in a variety of peri- 
 odical publi cat lonsy both in prose and verse. 
 
 ^th Month t6th» Spent a pleasant evening at 
 D. Bacon's. He, like the last mentioned friend^ 
 was a man highly esteemed in the circle of his 
 acquaintance ; and, being of a sweet disposition, 
 had a great place amongst young friends, when his 
 advice was wanted. He is since deceased. 
 
 ^h 3lQnth \7th. I dined and spent a part 
 of the day at Janfies P< mbertoft's, 3^. .kind 
 and hospitable friend of this meeting. Although 
 approaching to his 90th year, he was then of 
 considerable activity in offices of k.ndntss to his 
 
NORTH AMERICA. ^'^ 
 
 friends. Having lived nearly all his time in this 
 city, he has had the opportunity of observing its 
 regular, although rapid progress, from a small 
 town to a great commercial city. Amongst other 
 things, he mentioned to me that he well remem- 
 bered the time when there was but one ironmon- 
 ger's shop in the place ; and when there was only 
 one ship in the trade between Philadelphia and 
 London ; and the arrival of this vessel used to be 
 of so much importance, that marriages were some- 
 times delayed until its return. Such is the great 
 increase of this city, that it is now said to contain 
 106,0C0 inhabitants ; more than 1000 families of 
 whom are of our society. 
 
 ^th MontK tStk. Being the first day of the week, 
 I attended Frankfort meeting; afterwards dined at 
 N. W.'s, and in the afternoon drank tea at A. G.'s, 
 where I slept. And the next day I returned to 
 Philadelphia, A. G. kindly giving me a seat in his 
 carriage. 
 
 8th Month, 20th. Most part of this day was 
 employed at Philadelphia, in writing to my family 
 in England. Having an opportunity of noticing 
 a thermometer, I observed that it stood at 82 in 
 the shade. The next day was employed in busi- 
 ness at Philadelphia ; and I supped and spent the 
 evening at J. W.'s. 
 
fl 
 
 8 TRAVELS IN 
 
 ^tli MoJithy 22d. I set out for New-YoTk in 
 the packet-boat, by way of Burlington, and had a 
 pleasant sail up the Delaware, being about 20 
 miles. The fare I paid was 13i pence to Bur- 
 lington. The next day I attended Burlington meet- 
 ing, and on the 24th, set out in the public stage for 
 Amboy, passing through a great part of West Jer- 
 sey. In our way we breakfasted at Croswick's, 
 where I noticed a noble meeting-house and school, 
 which friends have built there, with spacious 
 grounds about them, all in neat order. This night 
 I lodged at the inn at Amboy, Hnd was pleasantly 
 lulled to rest by the plaintive notes of the Whippoor- 
 wiil. This bird is often heard in the dead of the 
 night, in the summer season, in America. Its song 
 is an unceasing repetition of the three syllables of its 
 name, " Whip-poor-will," in soft and plaintive 
 accents. 
 
 %th Months 25tk, This morning I went on 
 board the packet for New- York, and in the passage 
 we passed by the Romulus, Capt. R. B. from Liver- 
 pool. By this vessel I had the pleasure of receiv- 
 ing letters from my friends in England, and also 
 agreeable accounts of my wife and children, who 
 were at Liverpool when she left that port. 
 
 I staid at New-York till after the 11th of the 9th 
 n,onth. In this city I once dined at the house of 
 , in company with several English friends. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. * 39 
 
 This individual is a remarkable instance of the 
 instability of human things. A very short time 
 since he was one of the most wealthy merchants 
 in this city, and stood high in the estimation of 
 friends, and that deservedly. By the Indians who 
 visited New- York, he was looked up to as a father ; 
 and his house was always open to them. When 
 by a sudden reverse, arising from circumstances 
 which he could not control, his property was 
 dissipated and lost. 
 
 9th Month, Sc^ and 4^tk, were employed in busi- 
 ness. One day, in passing along the streets, I was 
 entertained with the sight of two Indian young 
 men, with each a bow and arrow in his hand, trip- 
 ping nimbly along, like two wild animals yet un- 
 broken to the yoke. I also attended the sale of a 
 forge and saw mill, with four dwelling-houses, and 
 50 acres of land, distant 40 miles from New- 
 York, and 10 miles from Hudson's River. The 
 whole sold for 270l. sterling. Before I left this 
 city, I wrote several letters to my family and 
 friends in England, by the Josiah, Collins. 
 
 9th Month, 12th, I left New-York in the stage, 
 for Philadelphia, arrived there the next day ; 
 and, after staying one night, set out for Baltimore 
 in the stage, by way of Derby, Chester, Wilming- 
 ton, Head of Elk, and Havre. de-Grace. Here I 
 
40 TRAVELS IN 
 
 crossed the Susqutharsnah, a noble river, being 
 about ORG mile over. Thence I proceeded to the 
 
 r 
 
 Gunpowder Falls, where I saw some considerab^e 
 ij-on works. 
 
 ^th Month^ \5th, I came to Baltimore, and 
 being pressingly invited by J. T. I took up my 
 quarters at his house. As I was a stranger in 
 Baltimore, and had no acquaintance with him, but 
 had accidentally met with him at a friend's hous€, 
 as I was delivering a letter, I felt the greater ob- 
 ligation to him for his generous attention. 
 
 9th Months 16tli. After being employed the fore- 
 part of the day in business, I was invited to dinner 
 by G, M. an open-hearted old man, and father^ 
 in-law to J. T. with whom I spent part of the day. 
 In the afternoon I called upon G. M. who, a consi- 
 derable time back, had emigrated with his father, 
 of the same name, and several branches of the 
 family, into this country, out of the noi;thern parts 
 of Yorkshire, 
 
 9th Months 17th, I left Baltimore, and, in the 
 Evening, came to Washington City ; or rather to 
 the scite on which the Metropolis of the United 
 States is intended to be built; for, as yet, little is 
 done towards the foundation of a city, excepting 
 the public offices, and houses for the accommoda- 
 tion of the oflficers and clerks in the various de-» 
 
^*OIlTH AMERICA. 41. 
 
 partments of the State, and a few imis and taverns; 
 but, as George Town is adjoining to it, they to- 
 gether make up a population of about 8000 inha- 
 bitants. 'J he capitol will be a noble building 
 when finished ; and is beautifully situated on a 
 commanding eminence; whence every part of the 
 city may be seen ; and whence also is a fine pros 
 pect of the Navy Yard, and of the Potowmack as 
 far down as Alexandria; being a distance of 6 or 
 7 miles. Upon the whole, the situation is one of 
 the most eligible spots for a city that I have ever 
 seen; and the plan being deliberately drawn out, 
 and every thing done with regularity and order, it 
 bids fair at some future day, to be one of the 
 most elegant and regularly built cities in the world ; 
 and, what is of more consequence', the situation is 
 dry and healthy. To a contemplative mind, there 
 is something very iateresting in the consideration 
 of the representatives of an extensive empire, like 
 that of the United States, thus jointly fixing 
 upon the most eligible situation for iheir chief 
 city. 
 
 After taking tea at George Town, I crossed the 
 Potowmack, and went down that evening to 
 Alexandria, a beautiful little city, situated on that 
 river, at a spot where it is about one mile over, 
 and so deep that ships of war ride at anchor, 
 before the town. 
 
 D2 
 
42 TRAVELS la 
 
 A worthy friend, of this city, mentioned to me 
 a remarkable preservation experienced there during 
 the v/ar. ^Vhile the town was in the hands of the 
 American Government, the English Commander 
 had, for some reason, given orders to burn it ; and 
 a ship of war, containing ev^ery requisite for its de- 
 struction, was ordered up the Potowmack. The in- 
 habitants, as may well be conceived, were in the 
 utmost consternation ; but, at the moment when 
 they were in the greatest confusion and distress ; 
 whilst the ship was steadily making her way within 
 sight of the town, and all was given up for lost, 
 there being no prospect of help, at this critical mo- 
 ment, the ship struck upon a sandbank, where she 
 remained immoveable. The town was thus provi- 
 dentially saved from destruction, by that Ali-pow- 
 erful arm, which so often interposes in the affairs 
 of men; sometimes brirging down those who by a 
 series of success seem to think themselves out of 
 the reach of accident ; and sometimes raising up 
 others who by a long train of adversity had thought 
 themselves even below hope. 
 
 9th Mcnthy ISth. I lodged last night at Alexan- 
 dria. Soon after I fell asleep, I was suddenly 
 waked by the noise of a number of horns. It ap- 
 peared to me that the instruments used were cow- 
 horns ; and they mad^ a prodigious oellowing in 
 the dead of the night. On inquiring I found that 
 it was the constant practice of the watchmen of 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 43 
 
 this city, on meeting, to take their rounds, to 
 serenade the citizens with a loud blast from their 
 horns, which they carry with them, and which are 
 used for the same purpose as the watchmen's rat- 
 tles in England. This morning, in company with 
 two friends, I crossed the Potowmack, and paid a. 
 
 visit to a family at N This family, consist- 
 
 uig chiefly of females, were born at Wickersly, 
 near Rotheram. Their mother was of a family 
 near Settle who are of the Roman Catholic per- 
 suasion. The family came over early in the set' 
 tlementof Maryland by Lord Baltimore ; and the 
 bricks of which the house is built, they informed 
 me, were brought over in the same ship with their 
 progenitors. The house is constructed upon the 
 plan of some of our old English mansions ; and the 
 garden is laid out in the old English style. It is 
 remarkable that I have never yet seen a garden, in 
 America, walled round as in England. I believe 
 that one principal reason is the warmth of the cli- 
 mate, and the clear, fine atmosphere, which pre- 
 clude the use of fruit walls. Besides, walls would 
 obstruct the free current of air, which would be an 
 objection to them. Yet I have frequently seen 
 gardens handsomely fenced round to the height of 
 6 or 7 feet, with neatly planed boards, painted 
 white or green. It abated greatly the pleasure I 
 should have received from the hospitality of this 
 family, when I was informed that they were in 
 possession of upwards of one hundred Negro 
 
44 TRAVELS IS 
 
 slaves ; numbers of whom I saw at work in the 
 fields, the garden, and about the house. 1 hey 
 appeared to be a remarkably stout, robust race of 
 men, and, in point of health, had, to all appear- 
 ance, greatly the advantage of their owners. A 
 person, not conversant with these things, would be 
 naturally led to think, that where families have the 
 opportunity of employing a number of slaves^ 
 every thing about their houses, gardens, and plan- 
 tations, would be kept in very nice order. How- 
 ever, the reverse of this is generally the case ; and 
 I was sometimes ready to think that the more 
 slaves there were employed about a house and 
 plantation, the more disorder appeared. I am 
 persuaded, that in a well-regulated family, with 
 one or two hired servants, much more neatness, 
 order, and comfort may be preserved, than can be 
 maintained by treble the number of slaves. I have 
 been in families where several slaves were kept 
 which have scarcely afforded the common neces- 
 saries of life. I have sat at table in families where 
 two or three slaves have waited upon us, and yet 
 there has not been a lodging-rooin or accommoda- 
 tions at night, equal to what many a labouring man 
 in England is able to furnish ; and, to compare the 
 accommodations of a slave-holder, in some of the 
 Southern States, with what the meanest of the 
 Pennsylvanian farmers are accustomed to, would 
 be still more unfavourable to the former. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 4o 
 
 fi 
 
 9th Months \9th. After attending to some busi- 
 ness, P. J. and several other friends joining us, we 
 took a boat with an intention of visiting Pvlount 
 Vernon ; but, after sailing a few miles on the 
 Potowmack, the wind got up very high, and 
 we found it would be unsafe to land : so, after 
 taking a view of that beautiful spot from the river, 
 we found it most prudent to return* Before we 
 had got half way back to Alexandria, the wind 
 still increasing, a great part of our company pre- 
 ferred walking 7 or 8 miles in the heat of the day,, 
 to the danger of continuing their voyage on the 
 river; and they were accordingly put on shore at 
 the first convenient landing. On approaching the 
 shore, I was entertained with the sight of a WMTd* 
 ber of beautiful tortoises, that were seated upon, 
 the edge of a large boat which lay a wreck at the 
 water side. Their colours were as beautifuUv 
 variegated as the wings of the butterfly. After 
 landing a part of our company, we beat up the 
 river in the best manner we could : and, had I not 
 been a pretty good swimmer, I should frequently 
 have considered myself in extreme danger ; but 
 knowing that if the boat had filled with water, I 
 was able to swim on shore, I had not much fear 
 about me. 
 
 Qth Months 20th, I attended Alexandria monthly 
 meeting in the forenoon ; and, there being a vessel 
 lying here, which was about sailing for I^iverpool, 
 
46' TRAVELS IlJ 
 
 I wrote and forwarded several letters to my rela- 
 tives in England. Although the atmosphere on 
 the continent is in general very clear ; yet I could 
 not avoid noticing, that, in this part of America, 
 it was still clearer than in any place I had before 
 seen. The stars seemed to glitter with a brilliancy 
 exceeding any thing I had already been witness 
 to. So great was their lustre, that, waking about 
 midnight, and observing a considerable degree of 
 light shining into the chamber, at first, I thought 
 it might be from the moon ; but^ on recollection, 
 I knew this could not be the case, and looking 
 out at the window, I found the light proceeded 
 from several brilliant stars, which shone with such 
 brightness as to cause the shadow of any inter* 
 vening object, much in the same manner as the 
 moon. The inn I slept at, is kept by an English- 
 man of the name of Gadsley, and is conducted in 
 a manner much superior to most inns in this coun- 
 try, or many in England. Every thing was pre- 
 served neat and clean, with good beds, and not 
 more than one or two in a chamber. 
 
 Note. — James Pemberton, a friend mentioned in page 36, 
 is since deceased ; and an interesting" account is giren of liirn 
 in the 10th part ef " Piety Promoted," by J. G, BcTan. 
 
NORTH AMKRICA. 47 
 
 CHAP. IIL 
 
 Port- Tobacco — Frederickahurg — Richmond — Negro tri- 
 al — Gouchland — Fredericksburg — Effects of A^'egrJ 
 Slavery on the Whites — Mount Vernon — George Toivn 
 -—Baltimore — Brandy Wine — Wilmington — Pkiladcl- 
 fihia. 
 
 On the 2\ St of 9th Months 1804, I left Alexan- 
 dria, crossed th^ Potowmack, and went down to 
 Port-Tobacco. In my way I passed through 
 Piscattaway, where I dined, and where, amongst 
 other things, broiled squirrels were served up at 
 table. In travelling along this day, I observed 
 that the population of this part of the country 
 consisted chiefly of black people ; and, in many 
 parts of the road, I noticed it was mostly tracked 
 with the bare feet, some of which appeared to 
 be immoderately large, arising, probably, from 
 their almost constant practice of going barefoot. 
 In many places I had an opportunity of seeing the 
 farmers busily employed in treading out the grain 
 in the open fields, with their horses. These were 
 mounted with several negro boys, who continued 
 riding round and round in a circle, in which the 
 sheaves were spread. At the same time, a num- 
 ber of negro men were employed in casting off 
 the straw, when the grain was trodden out, and 
 replacing it with fresh sheaves. Sometimes I havc 
 seen ten or twelve horses go round in one circle ; 
 one negro boy having the care of two or three 
 horses. 
 
43 TRAVELS IN 
 
 9th Months 22t/. In passing by the public 
 grave-yard at Port-Tobacco, I observed on one 
 of the grave stones, the name of Gray inscribed, 
 with the addition that he was a native of the parish 
 of Sheffield. 
 
 9th Months 23d, In travelling along the road, 
 I was a little entertained with several parties of 
 females riding to their places of worship ; some 
 of whom were escorted by a negro boy who rode 
 behind one of the girls. On coming to a gate, or 
 any other impediment, the negro jumps nimbly oif 
 the horse, and, after rendering the service required, 
 as nimbly runs after his mistress and again resumes 
 bis seat, without any detention of the party. 
 
 Yesterday I visited Colonel Ware, at his hab- 
 tation, by whom I was kindly treated. Many 
 habitations in this part of the country are exceed- 
 ingly private and retired ; and the situations of 
 some of them beautiful beyond description; but 
 that cruel system of negro slavery, seems to hang 
 like a dark cloud over all their pleasant scenes. In 
 the afternoon of this day, I returned to Alexandria, 
 and, in crossing the Potomack, was ferried over 
 by two negro slaves, who gave me an account of .^ 
 two of their fellow slaves being drowned, in cross- 
 ing this ferry during the last winter, at a time 
 when large quantities of ice were floating down the 
 stream, which overset the boat. I believe, it somt- 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 4@ 
 
 times happens, that these poor creatures are very 
 unnecessarily exposed to dangers, when they dare 
 not remonstrate with their owners. 
 
 Arriving at Alexandria in time, I attended their 
 afternoon meeting, and dined with W. P. a valu- 
 able old customer ; and afterwards supped and 
 spent the evening with his partner J. B. a worthy 
 Minister. 
 
 9th Montlh '^.-ith, I set out in the mail stage 
 for Fred -ricksburg, where I spent the evening, and 
 lodged at the house of a hospitable person of the 
 name of J. C. who, though noi a member of our 
 society, has a regard lor friends and their prin* 
 ciples. In some conversation I had with him, he 
 told me that he came over to America with his 
 parents, in early life, from Ireland; and being soon 
 left an orphan, had many difficulties and dis- 
 couragements to surmount ; but that he hdd been 
 favoured to establish himself here. I IouulI he 
 was considered by his neighbours, as a man of re- 
 spectability ; and by many of them w as supposed to 
 be a member of our society. Although convinced 
 of the truth of our principUs, yet I believe he has 
 never applied to be received as a member ; and 
 being at a considerable distance from any meeting 
 of friends, and having but little of their society, 
 except the transient call of such as may be travel- 
 ling that way, it is probable he never may applv. 
 
 E 
 
60 TRAVELS I-N 
 
 9M 3Ionth, 25th» I pursued my way to Rich- 
 mond in the mail stage, through a beautiful coun- 
 try, but clouded and debased by Negro slavery. At 
 the house where I breakfasted, which is called the 
 Bowling-green, I was told that the owner had in his 
 passession 200 slaves. In one field near the house, 
 planted with tobacco, I counted nearly iD women 
 and children, employed in picking grubs from the 
 plant. In the afternoon I passed by a field in 
 which several poor slaves had lately b.en executed, 
 on the charge of having an intention to rise against 
 their masters. A lawyer who was present at their 
 trials at Kichmond, informed me that on one 
 of them being asked, what he had to say to, the 
 court on his defence, he replied, in a manly tone of 
 voice ; " I have nothing more to offer than what 
 General Washington would have had to offer, had 
 he been taken by the British and put to trial by 
 them. I have adventured my life in endeavouring 
 to obtain the liberty of my countrymen, and am a 
 willing sacrifice in their cause : and 1 beg, as a fa- 
 vour, that I may be immediately led to execution. 
 I know that you have pre-determined to shed my 
 blood, why then all this mockery of a trial ?" 
 
 In the evening I arrived at Richmond, the capi- 
 tal of Virginia. In one respect, this has a good 
 deal the appearance of an English town, having a 
 cloud of smoke hanging over it, occasioned by the 
 lise of pit-coal. They have great plenty of this 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 51 
 
 article in the neighbourhood, a considerable quan- 
 tify of which they ship to other parts of the United 
 States. There is also a navigable canal for the 
 conveyance of coal, on which a great deal of busi- 
 ness is done, and the canal appears to be as well 
 managed as those in England. 
 
 9th Month^ 26th, Having business with C. A. of 
 Gouchland, ati^ distance of about 30 miles on a 
 cross road, I hired ahorse and rode to his house 
 in the course of the day. My road lying, part of 
 the way, through extensive plantations cultivated 
 by negro slaves, many cf whom dwell in small 
 clusters of huts at no great distance from their 
 master's house, I had the curiosity to look into 
 some of their iitde habitations ; but ail that I exa- 
 mined were wretched in the extreme, and far in- 
 ferior to many Indian cottages I have seen. 
 
 In passing along i observed in some places that 
 the land was very productive in tobacco, being a 
 fine rich black mould. 
 
 9th 3Io7ith, 27th, I slept at C. A's, and this 
 morni.jg set ont for Fredericksburg, being, ac- 
 companied by his young man, our road lying 
 through the woods great part of the way. At the 
 place where we dined, we were waited on by two 
 mullatto girls, whose only clothing appeared to 
 
^:2 TRAVELS IN 
 
 be loose garments of cotten and woollen cloths^ 
 girt round the waist widia small cord. I had ob- 
 served that this was a common dress of the work- 
 ing female Negroes in the fields ; but, when engaged 
 in business in the house, it seemed hardly sufficient 
 to cover them. In the yard, 1 observed a number 
 of slaves engaged in the management of a still, 
 employed in making spirits from cider. Here 
 again I had the curiosity to look into some of the 
 Negro huts, which like those I had before seen, pre- 
 sented little else but dirt and rags. In travelling 
 along, I saw several plantations of cotton, in some 
 of which the negro children were gathering the wool. 
 In the afternoon, as our road lay through the woods^ 
 I was surprised to meet a family party travelling 
 along in as elegaat a coach as is usually met with 
 in the neighbourhood of London ; and attended by 
 several gaily dressed footmen: a sight not very 
 common in the back woods of this country. The 
 evening coming on, and no inn being near, we 
 took up our quarters at the house of a planter of 
 the name of Holiday, where we were well accom- 
 modated. 
 
 9th Month, 28th, We came to Fredericksburg 
 and lodged at Fisher's Tavern. The next morning, 
 I was waked early by the cries of a poor Negro, 
 who was undergoing a severe correction, previously 
 to his going to work. On taking a walk on the 
 banks of the Rappahannock, the river on which 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 5^ 
 
 this towa is seated, I stepped into one of the large 
 tobacco warehouses which are built here, for the 
 reception and inspection of that plant, before it is 
 permitted to be exported. On entering into con- 
 versation with an inspector, as he was employed in 
 looking over a parcel of tobacco, he lamented the 
 licenciousness which he remarked so generally 
 prevailed in this town. He said, that in his remem- 
 brance, the principal part of the inhabitants were 
 emigrants from Scotland, and that it was consi- 
 dered so reproachful to the white inhabitants, if 
 they were found to have an illicit connection with 
 their female slaves, that their neighbours would 
 shun the company of such, as of persons with 
 whom it was a reproach to be acquainted. The 
 case was now so much altered that, he believed, 
 there were but few slave holders in the place who 
 werj free from guilt in this respect: and that it 
 was i.ow thought but little of. Such was the bru- 
 tality and hardness of heart which this evil pro- 
 duced, that some amongst them paid no more 
 regard to selling their own children, by their 
 female slaves, or even their brothers, and sisters, in 
 the same line, than they would do to the disposal 
 of a cow or a horse, or any other property in the 
 brute creation. To so low a degree of degrada- 
 tion does the system of negro slavery sink the white 
 inhabitants, who arc unhappily engaged in it, 
 
 E2 
 
54 
 
 TRAVELS IN 
 
 9th Months 2Qth. Having paid my fare last 
 night to go in the mail stage to Alexandria, I re- 
 paired to the Tavern this morning, at the 
 
 hour appointed by the landlord, who is also clerk 
 to the stage ; but the circumstance of my lodging 
 at another inn, on account of the vermin with 
 which I had been annoyed when I last slept at the 
 
 Tavern, had so displeased the man, that 
 
 he had sent oflP the stage considerably before the 
 usual time, in order that I might be disappointed 
 of getting to Alexandria this day. As I stood at 
 the door of the Tavern, remonstrating with the 
 landlord on account of his mean and unkind con- 
 duct in treating me thus, J. C. rode up to us on 
 an excellent horse of his own ; and as soon as he 
 understood how the landlord had behaved to me, 
 he immediately dismounted and insisted upon my 
 pursuing my journey upon his horse; I accord- 
 ingly accepted his generous offer, but, before I 
 set out, I complained to the post-master, who re- 
 turned the money I had paid at the Tavern, and, 
 at the same time declared, that if ever he again 
 detected the landlord in the like base conduct to 
 any traveller, he would remove the mail stage 
 to another inn. The circumstance of pursuing my 
 journey on horseback, afforded me an opportunity 
 of visiting Mount Vernon, the habitation of the 
 late General "Washington j and I was shown thro.igh 
 the house by a person who had the care of it. 
 The situation is beautiful, being a rising ground. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. $ 
 
 K 
 
 commanding a fine prospect of the river Poto- 
 mack and the surrounding country. In the even- 
 ing, I arrived safe at Gadby's Tavern in Alexan- 
 dria, having enjoyed, on horseback, a much more 
 ple?sant ride, than I should have had in the stage. 
 Thus it sometimes happens that our enjoyments 
 arise out of disappointments. 
 
 9th Month^ 20th. A respectable person at the 
 inn being about to return towards Fredericksburg, 
 afforded an opportunity of sending back J. C.'s 
 horse, and I accordingly availed myself of it, I 
 supped and spent this evening at E. S.'s, a valuable 
 medical friend in this city. 
 
 loth Month, istand 2d, were spent at Alexandria 
 in commercial engagements. The next day I took 
 my passage in the packet for George Town, and 
 had a pleasant sail up the Potowmack ; having a 
 fine view of Washington city, particularly of the 
 capitol and of the President's house ; which are in 
 sight all the way from Alexandria. In the eveni; g 
 I came to George Town, and staid at an inn, in 
 company with a Messenger who had just arrived 
 from Spain, with dispatches for the American 
 Government ; and, he being an agreeable intelli- 
 gent person, the time I was with him was spent 
 satisfactorily. 
 
 10/^ Mouthy 4ih. I set out for Baltimore, in 
 company with Thomas Washington, a relation of 
 
56 TRAVELS IN 
 
 the General of that name. With this person I 
 had some acquaintance, having met with him be- 
 fore. In travelling along, he gave me a little 
 account of a visit he paid to Paris, at the time of 
 the Revolution. Amongst other things, he men?* 
 tioned to me the extreme indifference with which 
 many poor men paid the forfeit of their lives, 
 during that awful period. At one time he accom- 
 panied the American Ambassador, to a place whence 
 he had a near view of a number of these victims, as 
 they were about to be executed ; and where he was 
 so near that he could hear their conversation : which 
 V\^as as light and frivolous as of men engaged in. 
 the common or ordinary concerns of life. One of 
 them remarked to his companion, that he would 
 take care that he would have nothing to do with' 
 Rov^olutions in the next world, seeing he had met 
 with so poor a reward in this. 
 
 Several of our companions in the stage were 
 French people, and amongst them a Catholic 
 priest. There was something singular in this 
 man's conduct and conversation. Sometimes he 
 appeared very devoutly reading a book of devo- 
 tion ; and, in a moment, he would shut up his book 
 and begin singing with the greatest gaity, and 
 talking nonsense to his female companions. In 
 the afternoon I arrived at Baltimore, and took up 
 my quarters at J. T.'s. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 57 
 
 10th Mouthy 5th, A vessel being afjout to sail 
 for England from this port, I employed the day 
 in writing to my family and friends there ; and, in 
 the evening, I supped with old friend G. M. 
 
 IQth^ Months 6th» This day I was engaged in at- 
 tending to my concerns in Baltimore ; and the next 
 being the 1st of the week, I attended the meeting in 
 that city, and supped and spent the evening with 
 J. M. an old customer, who having acquired a large 
 property in trade, has now retired from business. 
 I was informed that his eldest son had addressed 
 Wm. Patterson's daughter, in order to marriage ; 
 but having Jerome Bonaparte for a rival, had met 
 with a disappointment ; she having given the pre- 
 ference to the Frenchman, to whom she is now 
 married. I had an opportunity of seeing Jerome 
 and his bride, and could perceive in his counte- 
 nance and person, a great resemblance to the 
 portraits we see of the French Emperor. 
 
 10th Month, 8th, was employed in writing to 
 my friends in England ; and, an opportunity offer- 
 ing, I forwarded several letters and papers to them. 
 
 10th Month, 9th, I left Baltimore. The road 
 in some parts lying through the woods, and the 
 wind being very high, we found so.ne difficulty in 
 getting along, on account of a great number of 
 large trees which were blown down and laid across 
 the road. However we got safe to Havre-de- 
 
•J-S TRAVELS IN 
 
 Grace ; but the wind continuing" high^ it was^ 
 thought unsafe to send the mail across the Sus- 
 quehannah, which is here upwards of a mile over; 
 so we concluded to lodge here, and see what the 
 morning might produce. As we were a mixed 
 company in the stage, the conversation turned on 
 various subjects ; and the poor Negro slaves being 
 frequently in sight, as we passed along, they be- 
 came one of course. I observed one passenger to 
 be a warm advocate for the slave trade ; and he, 
 in very strong terms, condemned the conduct of 
 friends who were active in the cause of the Negroes, 
 Amongst other things, he remarked that there was 
 a tailor in Philadelphia, a Quaker, of the name 
 
 of , whose work-board being at a front 
 
 window, he had an opportunity of noticing the pas- 
 sengers in the street, and that whenever he saw a 
 Negro whom he judged to be a runaway slave, he 
 would, in a moment, jump from his work-board 
 and run into the street. If he found the Negro to 
 be really a runaway, he would take him under his 
 protection, and send him to some settlement in the 
 back parts of Pennsylvania, where he would be 
 sure to find employment ; and thus he went on 
 from day to day, in what the slave merchant 
 considered no better than highway robbery. The 
 man who was making these observations, I found 
 had been in that trade ; and that T. H. was the 
 friend he alluded to. 
 
KORTH AMERICA. $9 
 
 10th 31onth^ 10th, The winds having some- 
 what abated, we ventured to cross the Susque- 
 hannah ; but it being the time of low water, and the 
 force of the winds having driven down the water 
 very considerably the boats could not approach the 
 firm land by more than 100 yards, and we had to 
 mount upon the backs of the boatmen, who car- 
 ried us through the mud ; but with considerable 
 difficulty, and not without now and then letting us 
 down in the mire. On getting fairly over, 1 found 
 a number of friends by the river side, on their way 
 to Baltimore yearly meeting ; and amongst them 
 M W. formerly of Sheffield. In the course of 
 the afternoon I passed by A. A. near the Head of 
 Elk. In the evening I came to Newport, where 
 I slept, having had the company of J. Pleasants, of 
 Philadelphia. 
 
 10th Ilonth^ 11th, I came to Wilmington, and 
 was kmdly entertained at S. S.'s and J. G.'s ; the 
 former of whom accompanied me to the Brandy 
 Wine River Mills. Ihese mills are mostly in the 
 hands of friends; and although not the most ex- 
 tensive, are in the coni>traction and situation perhaps 
 equal to any. I'hey are eight in number, and eacli 
 grind upon an average, per day, about three tons 
 and a half of flour, and about ten tons of Indian 
 meal ; going through all the processes of grind- 
 ing, dressing, packing. Sec I'hey are so situated, 
 that vessels receive and discharge their cargoes 
 
6f TRAVELS IN 
 
 alongside the mills. The neighbourhood of these 
 mills is romantic and beautiful, and is one amongst 
 the many pleasant spots I have seen in this coun- 
 try. Indeed the town of Wilmmgton has every 
 advantage ; its situation being on a rising ground, 
 and its streets, intersecting each other at right 
 angles. 
 
 10th Month, 12ihy was spent pleasantly at 
 Wilmington, in the families of J. G. and S. S. 
 In this place, as is many towns in this coun- 
 try, I observed that a considerable proportion of 
 the uihabitants were friends, and what to an 
 Englishman had something remarkable in it, I 
 noticed that the females at the inn, where I took 
 my place in the stage, appeared like plain consist- 
 ent friends, and indeed they were such, for ought 
 I know to tjj^e contrary. 
 
 10th Mouthy ISth, I took my departure for Phila- 
 delphia, the road lying through a pleasant country, 
 diversified with hill and dale, and commanding a fine 
 prospect of the Delaware and the opposite Jersey 
 shore, nearly all the way. In passing by some 
 farms near Wilmington, I was struck with the sight 
 of several fields of Indian corn, the crops on which 
 were finer than any I had ever before seen. On 
 inquiry, I found they belonged to an innkeeper, who 
 had manured them well. From various observ- 
 tions I have made, I have no doubt that the land 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 6.J 
 
 ia this country, generally speaking, would, when 
 plentifully manured, yield much greater crops than 
 can commonly be obtained in England ; chiefly 
 owing to their summer, or season of vegetation 
 continuing a greater length of time than with us. 
 In the evening I arrived at Philadelphia. 
 
 10th Month. 14th, Th's being the first day of 
 the week, 1 attended meeting; and, in the after- 
 noon was at the burial of S. E. who had been a 
 friend and customer of mine some years. The uncer- 
 tainty of life, and the fluctuating state of thin s ia 
 the world, were seldom more fully exemplied than 
 in the case of this young man. Few men have pur- 
 sued business -with more reputation and success 
 than he had done ; so that, in a few years, he had 
 honourably acquired a very large property ; and, 
 only a very few weeks before, was united to an ami- 
 able young woman, to whom he had for some time 
 been sincerely attached. At this moment, when 
 every thing on earth seemed to smile around him, 
 and there was every prospect of many years of 
 happiness, a blight was brought over all, in an 
 unexpected and av/ful way. He was suddenly 
 deprived of reason, and, after a few weeks con- 
 finement, departed this life, leaving a mournful, 
 although instructive lesson of the mutability of all 
 earthly enjoyments. Having received an invitation 
 from my countryman T. S. I supped and spent the 
 evening at his house. 
 
 F 
 
62 TRAVELS IN 
 
 lOth Month, 15th and 16th^ I was employe J in 
 business ; and having an opportunity, by a vessel 
 which was ready for sailing, I wrote to my family. 
 The next day I spent an hour or two in Doctor 
 R.'s family. The Doctor, although advanced in 
 years, is still very active in business ; and his wife, 
 who is an elderly woman, continues to be very 
 active in her family. I found them amidst a nu- 
 merous group of promising children ; some of 
 whom are arrived at years of maturity. The con- 
 versation I had with the Doctor was interesting, 
 he having been intimately acquainted with many 
 of the leadii^g characters In the Revoluti^, par- 
 ticularly with General Washington, and the Presi- 
 dent, T. Jefferson. As Doctor R. had constantly 
 been a warm advocate for the abolition of Negro 
 slavery, he sometimes endeavoured to introduce 
 the subject in conversation v;ith the General j but 
 always found him extremely backward at saying 
 any thing on these occasions, as if conscious of the 
 cruelty of the practice, although he was involved 
 in it. Though a man of great character and 
 talents in many respects, yet the detention of his 
 Negro slaves in bondage during his life, will al- 
 ways be a shade to his virtues. Yet it is but jus- 
 tice to notice that, by will, he provided for the 
 liberation of his slaves, who in course became free- 
 men at his death. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 6 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 A 
 
 Occiirreticesy tfc. in Philadelphia^ during a stay of 
 
 several Months. 
 
 11th 3Ionth, 2d, I supped and spent the even- 
 ing at S. S.'s, where a sister of John Pemberton's 
 widow was present. She informed me, that her 
 father was frequently in the practice of entertain- 
 ing different parties of Indians, who came to Phi- 
 ladelphia on public business ; and that having once 
 invited a number of chiefs, who were then in the 
 city, to breakfast, they came to the house rather 
 earlier than the servants expected, accompanied by 
 their interpreter. However they were introduced 
 into the breakfast room, where a servant was en- 
 gaged in brightening up some of the brass work 
 about the fire-place, and were desired to sit down 
 until her master made his appearance. They had 
 not sat long, before one of the Indians made an 
 observation in his own language, which the inter- 
 preter was desired to put into English ; but this he 
 objected to, alledging that what the Indian had 
 said was a matter of indifference, and not worth 
 repeating. On being closely pressed to keep back 
 nothing the Indians might say, as every thing from 
 them would be interesting, he complied, and said 
 that the remark which the Indian made was this : 
 " Lookj" said he to his fellow Indians, *' at that ser^ 
 
64 TRAVELS IN 
 
 vant, how she labours at those andirons. I dare say, 
 if we had come yesterday, we should have found her 
 at the sanie employment; and if we come to-mor- 
 row morning, it is ten to one but we shall still 
 find her at the same work. How foolish these 
 white people are ! thus to labour and toil about 
 things which can answer no good purpose j cer- 
 tainly these white people must be fools I" I'hus 
 the Indians judge the civilized part of the world; 
 and what is called the civilized world, is not behind 
 in judging the Indians; so apt are we to judge 
 one another. 
 
 10^/z Month^ 13th, In conversation with a friend 
 of the name of R. W. he informed me that, in the 
 early part of his life, he was on the island of the 
 Havanna, where he had some considerable business 
 to transact ; but being ignorant of the Spanish 
 language, an Irish Roman Catholic Priest kindly 
 lent him his assistance on various occasions ; and,' 
 so effectually, that the Priest was the means of his 
 acquiring a large property, during a short stay 
 there. At the .time of parting with this friendly 
 Priest, he presented him with a purse of one 
 thousand dollars, as a small compensation for the 
 assistance he had received ; but the truly Catholic 
 Priest declared, that he would not accept of any 
 compensation of this sort; adding, *' All 1 ask of 
 you, in return for any service I may have rendered 
 you, is, that if, at any future period, you happen to 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 6S 
 
 meet a countryman of mine in need of assistance, 
 you would do to him as I have done to you." 
 This affords one amongst many proofs, that the 
 truly Christian spirit is not confined to any pro- 
 fession of religion. 
 
 2d of 12th Month. After attending the North 
 
 meeting, I called at the widow , where 
 
 I saw the body of a young man fro.n Sheffield, 
 who was found dead in his bed that morning. I was 
 conducted into the room by another person from 
 Sheffield. From the appearance of the deceased, 
 it seemed that he had departed without the least 
 struggle. He v/ent to bed in usual health. How 
 imcert lin is the tenure of human life! 
 
 On the 1st of 1st Month, 1805 , I attended the 
 burial of the above-mentioned young man, in 
 company with several of my countrymen ; amongst 
 whom was Phineas Bond, the British Con.uU 
 The Bishop of Pennsylvania performed what is 
 called the burial service, after the manner of the 
 Church of England. 
 
 tst Month^ 4th, This day was remarkably cold, 
 
 far beyond any thing I had ever experienced ia 
 
 England. The thermometer beir.g down as low 
 
 as 12, about 20 degrees below the freezing point. 
 
 The river Delaware, which is more than a mile 
 
 over, and which has a strong current, was quicklr 
 
 ¥ 2 
 
(36 TRAVELS IN 
 
 frozen over to that degree, that horses and car- 
 riages, heavily laden, were seen traversing from 
 one side to the other in great numbers ; chiefly 
 with fire wood from the Jersey shore. Exclusive 
 of these, parties of pleasure were seen driving along 
 in sledges or sleighs upon the ice. These kinds of 
 carriages are made in various fantastic lorms 
 resting upon s'iders shod with iron or steel. 
 
 1st Jllonth 6th. In company with T. W. I 
 crossed the Delaware upon the ice. The tide fio\YS 
 to the height of about 6 feet in this river, and in 
 it are some sand banks which are seen at low 
 water. These circumstances produce a very singu- 
 lar and romantic appearance, by the large sheets of 
 ice being obstructed and accumulated in various 
 parts of the riveT, having the resemblance of large 
 blocks of white marble piled on heaps. There 
 being a constant intercourse between the two 
 shores of the Delaware, it is curious to observe 
 the various means which the owners of the ferrv 
 boats use, to counteract the efTecrs oi the frost, on 
 its first setting in, so as to preserve the commu- 
 nication open. On these occasions they make use 
 of a boat that has two sliders, one on each side 
 the keelv shod with iron ; and, as the shallow parts 
 of the river are first frozen, thoy sail as usual over 
 the deep parts, and on coming to those which 
 are frozen, they drag the boat out of the water, 
 and push it along the ice, until they come to the 
 
deep places, when the boat is a^;ain plunged into 
 the waten Thus they go on till they reach the 
 opposite shore ; and as it will, in course, some- 
 times happen, in the early part of the frost, that be- 
 tween the ice and the shallow water, the ice is not 
 sufficiently strong to support the boat; in this case 
 it is common for one of the ferrymen to sit at the 
 head of the boat, with his feet hanging out, loaded 
 with a pair of heavy iron bound boots, and, with 
 a long pole in his hands. With these he labours 
 with all his niight to break the ice, and make way 
 for the boat. 
 
 1st Month, 7th, I supped and spent the even- 
 ing at B. J.'s, in whose service is a young French- 
 man, a son of one of those friends who reside at 
 Nirne^ or in that neighbourhood ; and I believe 
 he conducts himself agreeably in the family. I have 
 noticed a number of friends in I^hiladelphia, who 
 have come from var:ous parts of the continent of 
 Europe. They appear thankful for the encourage- 
 ment and protection they meet with in this favoured 
 land ; and some of them having felt the heavy 
 hand of oppression in their native country, know 
 better how to estimate the value of the privileges 
 which they here enjoy. 
 
 Ut^ Month, 8th, I spent this afternoon at 
 J. D.'s, a friend who, some years past, came from 
 the neighbourhood of Darlington, with hi« wife 
 and family. There is something so remarkable in 
 
S8 TRAVELS IN 
 
 the circumstatices of his leaving England, that I am 
 tempted to give them as related from his own 
 mouth. He being a merchant of great respecta- 
 bility and liberality, who by industry has realized 
 a large property, I believe they may be relied on. 
 For some time before he left England, his thoughts 
 had been turned towards Pennsylvania ; but before 
 he had come to anv fixed resolution, he dreamed 
 that he had met with a friend, from that country, 
 who was able to give him every necessary inform- 
 ation on the subject. A short time after this dream 
 he came accidentally to Darlington, where be saw a 
 person in the street, who exactly resembled the 
 friend he had seen in his dream. He accordingly 
 applied to him, and found the individual he was 
 speaking to, was John Pemberton, of Philadelphia, 
 who was at that time on a religious visit to Great 
 Britain, Having received what information he 
 thought necessary, he made arrangements for his 
 voyage to America, and, with his wife and children, 
 took a final leave of England. 
 
 1st Months 9th* I drank tea and spent the even- 
 ing with R. J. at her comfoitab^.e habit.>iion. It 
 was pleasant to see how cheerful n i lively this 
 valuable friend is preserved in old age. On notic- 
 ing the coldness of the weather she obs rved that 
 it was the most inclement season she had witnessed 
 for 40 years. Considering how green and lively 
 her faculties are preserved in the winter of her age, 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 69 
 
 it is not surprising that she maintains the esteem 
 and affection of her friends and neighbours. 
 
 1^/ Month, 14t/i, I dined at J. "W.'s, in com- 
 pany with Doctor Fothergill of Bath, who had 
 lately come over to America, on account of his 
 health. At J. W.'s hospitable table, we were 
 treated with wild venison, which had been sent 
 to him from among the Indians. Another of the 
 company was a partner in a house at Antwerp. 
 I was sometimes ready to think that Philadelphia 
 might be considered as a kind of central depot, in 
 which is found people of every nation on the 
 earth ; and where all appear to unite cordially, as 
 in one common family. Such are the beneficial 
 effects of a free and liberal policy, the seeds of 
 vrhich were sown by that enlightened patriot Wil* 
 Ham Penn. 
 
 1^^ Month, 20th, The frost still continuing very 
 intense, and the ground covered with snow, the 
 use of wheel carriages was in a great measure 
 discontinued : even the stage coaches being placed 
 on sliders. Carriages fitted up in this way, glide 
 along with such silent celerity, that the laws require 
 the horses should have small bells fixed to their har- 
 ness, that passengers in the streets may have notice 
 of their approach ; otherwise they would be liable 
 to many accidents. On kvel ground, or in th^; most 
 trifling descents, there is so little friction upon Uje 
 
7Q TRAVELS IN 
 
 sliders, that I have often noticed the traces to be 
 quite slack for a consiJerable time, when they have 
 been driving a!»^g with great swiftness; the pres- 
 sure on the reins being sufficient to keep the car- 
 riage in motion. The noise of carriage wheels, 
 which is, in gencHil, very tonsidtrr.ble, especially 
 in the principal streets ; is now supplanted by the 
 tinkling of bells on every hand. 
 
 \st Months 2l5?, to 1st Months Z\st. The frost 
 still continuing very severe, I made frequent ex- 
 cursions upon the ice of the Delav/are, where a 
 great many ships lay bound fast by the frost. One 
 very large vessel, I noticed, called the Connecti- 
 cut, which had now been fr.ot near one month, 
 with her w^hole complement of hands on board; 
 being nearly one hundred in number. This ship 
 was intended for a voyage to Domingo, and was 
 completely armed as a regular vessel of w^ar. As 
 most of the men had received part of their wages 
 in advance, and the owners were fearful they might 
 take advantage of the ship being thus detained and 
 leave her, they had fixed a strong net work all 
 round her, reaching from the beam nearly as high 
 as the yards. The crew being thus inclosed, had 
 the appearance of a flock of birds in a cage. This 
 kind of net w^ork is sometimes made use of in time 
 of action to prevent being boarded by the enemy. 
 
 The Negroes in the island of Domingo, having 
 thrown off the French yoke and set up an Em- 
 
3fORTH AMERICA. Tl 
 
 peror of their own colour, the French Government 
 had, in consequence declared them rebels ; and, 
 having prohibited all intercourse w.th th m, this 
 circumstance occasicjmrd the America. .s to ai-m 
 their ships which traded to that islatid. About 
 this time James Pemberton sent a number of 
 friend's books to the Black Emperor, as a present, 
 accompanied with letter ; to which James receiv- 
 ed a reply and acknowledgement, written in a very 
 singular style ; the substance of the reply was, as 
 I undersiood it, that he was obliged to him for the 
 books; but that he was determined to be Emperor 
 of Haiti, (the Indian name for Domingo,j in defi- 
 ance of both the French and the Quakers, Not- 
 withstanding this determination, he has since been 
 cut off by his enemies. 
 
 This day I attended Market-street Meeting, and 
 afterwards dined with A. A, and M, R. and spent 
 a great part of the afternoon with them very pleas- 
 antly. 
 
 2d Month, 1st. This day I dined at J. D.*s, in 
 company with J. F. one of the persons who ac- 
 companied me on my voyage from England. The 
 extreme severity of the weather had brought down 
 several kinds of water fowls from the northern 
 parts of this continent, which were quite unknown 
 to the naturalists in this country. J. F. shewed 
 Kie one of them, which he had purchased, and 
 
fS TRAVELS IN 
 
 >vhich appeared to be a species of duck ; but was 
 much larger, and of a more beautiful plumage 
 than the common kind. 
 
 2t/ Monthy 4th, I attended the quarterly meeting 
 in this city, in which a testimony on account of 
 W. Savery, was produced and read, expressive of 
 the high estimation in which he was held by friends 
 here. 
 
 ^d Mo)7th^ 14M. Being invited, I attended the 
 marriage of J. W. and A. A. of Philadelphia, 
 where I met with my countrywoman A. A. and 
 her companion M. R ; and also T. S. formerly of 
 Kendal, who is now married and well settle'd in 
 this city. 
 
 2d Month, 21st, I still continued in Philadel- 
 phia ; and this afternoon was pleasantly spent at 
 S. S.'s. The next day I attended the Middle 
 Monthly Meetin^^:, where I was gratified with the 
 sight of a young man presenting an acknowledge- 
 ment to friends, on account of having taken up 
 arms ; for which he had been disowned. During 
 the time of his separation, he had married an amia- 
 ble young woman, who was convinced of the truth 
 of friends' principles, and joined the society. 
 The impression made upon the meeting, on his 
 presenti?ig an acknowledgement, was such, that 
 he was reinstated in the society before the meeting 
 separated. 
 
N»R'rH AMERICA. 73 
 
 Being invited by J. E. I supped and spent the 
 evening at his house. A person was also in com- 
 pany with us, who had made himself remarkable, 
 in being a principal leader and mini; ter am- ng 
 those seceders, who g^ve themselves the name of 
 Free Quaktrs; and who, during the war with Eng- 
 land, gave friends a great deal of trouble. The 
 ground of their offence against friends, was, chieflj^, 
 the operation of the rules of discipine, in a 
 variety of cases, that arose out of circums anc(s 
 attending the revolution ; particularly with respect 
 to taking up arms in defence of the country ; and 
 things of that nature. This person appears to be 
 a man of good abilities, but of strong passions ; 
 and he is considered as the main support of his 
 society ; which is now red\iced to a very small ' 
 number, and will most likely become extinct on his 
 removal. 
 
 2d Months 2Mh, In company with T. S. his 
 wife, and several other friends, I drank tea and 
 spent the evening with J. W. and his bride. The 
 company consisted mostly of natives of England, 
 and on this account the visit was peculiarly grati- 
 fying to me in a foreign land. 
 
 Zd Months \sU This afternoon at B. J.'s, one 
 
 of our company wxis a young woman who was 
 
 there on a visit. Her usual residence was in one 
 
 of the new settlements, on the banks of the Uhio, 
 
 G 
 
^4 TRAVELS IN 
 
 about 5OO miles from Philadelphia. She informed 
 us that many families on the banks of this great 
 river, are supplied with shop goods from vessels 
 which navigate it, and are fitted up with counters, 
 shelves, and drawers, in the same manner as are 
 shops on land, and well stored wiih all kinds of 
 goods. As they sail along the river, on coming 
 near a plantation, they blow a horn or conch shell, 
 to give notice of their arrival; \xhtn the planters, 
 with their wives and daughters, repair to these float- 
 ing shops, and select such things as they are in want 
 of; and make payment in the produce of their 
 plantations ; such as grain, flour, cotton, tobacco, 
 dried venison, the skins of wild animals, he. &c» 
 The shopkeeper having disposed of his goods in 
 this way, returns home with the produce he has 
 collected, and again renews his stock, and pro- 
 ceeds on another voyage. The young woman re- 
 marked, that four or five of these floating shops 
 have passed by her father's house, in the course of 
 a day. 
 
 She likewise informed us, such was the primitive 
 simplicity in which they lived, that it was a very 
 unusual thing to have locks on their doors ; and 
 that when more strangers called upon them, than 
 they had beds to accommodate them with, it was 
 customary for the family to spread temporary 
 bed? upon the floor, on which they passed the ! 
 night, leaving their own to the strangers. Yet 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 7S 
 
 notwithstanding the homely fare of some of the 
 back settlers, luxury is making rapid strides among 
 them; so that many of the most costly manufac- 
 tures of Europe and Asia, begin to find a ready 
 sale in some of their infant towns and cities ; and 
 several extensive manufactories are already esta- 
 blished at Pittsburgh and in the neighbourhood ; 
 where coals are cheaper and more plentiful than in 
 England. In some places the mountain side pre- 
 sents a front of coal, as our rocks of stone in Eng- 
 land. 
 
 Sd Months 2d, Sd, and 4.4 /i, were spent in Phi- 
 ladelphia. The 2d I drank tea and spent a pleas- 
 ant evening at my kind friend T. S.\s formerly of 
 Kendal. On the 3d I attended the North Meeting, 
 and was afterwards kindly entertained by J. W.'s 
 family, in which I spent an agreeable evening in 
 company with A. A. and R. J. ; and on the 4th 
 spent part of the day at my friend T. S.'s, in com- 
 pany with A, A. and her companion M. R. 
 
 od Month, 10th. I went over to Germantown, at- 
 tended their meeting, and returned to Philadelphia 
 in the evening. At Germantown I perceived that 
 many of the friends were descendants of German 
 parents; and I should suppose that most of the 
 towns people are of German extraction, I observ- 
 ed here a number of stocking makers, who manu- 
 facture an excellent and substantial article. 
 
TQ TRAVELS IN 
 
 Sd Month, 11 th. I dined at the house of a friend, 
 a native of Bermudas. In the course of conver- 
 sation he informed me, that his business having led 
 him to St. Eustatia, he was there at the time that 
 island was captured by Admiral Rodney ; and was 
 witness to many transactions consequent on the 
 capture of such an island ; which, like every other 
 effect of war, produced great distress and misery 
 to the inhabitants. 
 
 Sd Month, 22d. After about three months conti- 
 nuance the frost broke up, which was such as had 
 not been felt for the last 40 years, and during which 
 even the largest rivers were so frozen, that heavy 
 carriages passed over them daily, as on dry land. 
 At one time I had the curiosity to measure the ice 
 on the river Delaware, and found it was 22 inches 
 in thickness. Now the wind having shifted to the 
 southward^ the snow and ice were fast disappear- 
 ing; and, on taking a ride towards Gloucester 
 Point, it was curious to hear the loud croaking and 
 whistling, that proceeded from the frogs in every 
 pool of water I passed by. • 
 
 4th Month, 5th. During my stay in Philadelphia, 
 I often experienced the generous hospitality of my 
 friends in that city, in very frequent invitations 
 to one or other of their houses. In the recollec- 
 tion of their kindness the feelings of gratitude 
 often arise in my breast. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 17 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Burlington — Allentonvn-^Keiv- York — Bristol — Phila- 
 delphia^-Yearly Meeting there. 
 
 On the 6th of the 4^th Month, I left Philadelphia on 
 my way to New-York, and, after a pleasant sail 
 of three hours, arrived safe at Burlington. Among 
 the passengers in the packet, was a British sailor 
 on his way to England, being summoned as an evi- 
 dence between the owners and underwriters of a 
 slave ship. He told me, that he was the only suN 
 vivor out of 380 persons; 350 of which were 
 slaves. 
 
 We read that a sparrow does not fail to the 
 ground without the notice of our heavenly Father. 
 How great then must be the responsibility of the 
 owners of one of these slave ships, who, inthe wan- 
 tonness of power, or the gratification of a base and 
 sordid disposition, thus exposes the lives of his fel- 
 low-creatures to every species of suffering, and 
 very frequently, as in the above case, to a premature 
 death 1 
 
 I recollect once being in conversation with a 
 person concerned in the traffic, and who was dis-. 
 po-^ed to defend it ; at length, being hard pressed, 
 he gave up the point, in a good deal of warmth, 
 with this remarkable declaration : '* Why, Sir, 
 
 G2 
 
T8 . TRAVELS IN 
 
 " you can't suppose that the Almighty looks so 
 " narrowly into our actions as you do I'' — Thus we 
 see that the great adversary deceives his victims 
 into a belief, that their actions are not seen bv the 
 Omniscient Eye. I spent the evening and slept 
 under G. D.'s hospitable roof. 
 
 4th 3Io7ith^ 7th, I attended Burlington Meet- 
 ing ; and in the afternoon set out in the stage for 
 AUentown. My companion in the stage was a 
 young man lately returned from St. Domingo. He 
 had resided several years there, and had been wit- 
 ness to many atrocious cruelties which had been 
 perpetrated on that island, both by the white and 
 black people ; and which are too shocking to re- 
 late. In making a comparison between the whites 
 and blacks, as to the faculties of the mind, he 
 declared that he could perceive no difference, 
 where the advantages of education had been equal. 
 
 Ath Months 8th. I lodged last night at Al- 
 lentown, and came this day to Amboy ; and, after 
 dinner, went on board the packet for New -York, 
 where I arrived safe this evening. I have often 
 admired the prospects around Amboy, as well as 
 those from the Sea, throughout the whole passage 
 to New- York, particularly in passing Stiten and 
 Long Islands, and when the eye catches a first view 
 of that city. The whole is indeed extremely beau- 
 tiful, but not easily described. 
 
NORTH AMERICA, 79 
 
 Ath Month^ 12t/i, Since my arrival in New- 
 York, I have been engaged principally with busi- 
 ness. On the llth I accompanied several of my 
 countrymen on board the Laura, on their way to 
 England, and was ready to murmur that I was not 
 to continue one of the party. Whilst I stood upon 
 the battery, watching the ship as she made her way 
 towards the Narrows, the weather being fine and 
 clear, somewhat like one of our finest summer 
 days, I thought that I had scarcely ever beheld a 
 prospect more delightful. 
 
 This afternoon, the 12th, I took my passage la 
 the packet, and came again to Amboy in the even- 
 ing, where I lodged ; and, on the 13th, I came to 
 Bristol. On the 14th, being first day, I attended 
 the meeting at this place. 
 
 I have often had to notice the hospitality of 
 friends in this part of the world. Here again I 
 witnessed it, in the generous attention of a friend 
 of this place, who kindly invited me to his house ; 
 where I dined. This friend I found was a relation 
 to the Wilson's of Kendal. After spending an 
 hour or two satisfactorily in his family, I went on 
 board the packet for Philadelphia, accompanied 
 by several friends from this neighbourhood, who 
 were on their way to the yearly meeting about to 
 be held in that city. The weather being warm 
 and fine, and having a clear moonlight evening, 
 
80 TRAVELS IN 
 
 we had s^n agreeable sail down the Delaware ; the 
 pleasure of which was heightened, by the unre- 
 served conversation of a number of sensible friends 
 on board the packet. After landing near the spot 
 where William Penn held his treaty with the In- 
 dians, I made the best of my way to my old quar- 
 ters in Arch-street, where I lodged this night. 
 
 Ath Months \5thy ?1805. I attended the first 
 sitting of the yearly meeting in Philadelphia. This 
 yearly meeting com.^ rises the following quarterly 
 meetings, (viz.) Philadelphia, Abington, Bucks 
 Concord, Cain, Western, Southern, Burlington, 
 Haddonfield, Salem, and Shrewsbury. The first 
 sitting was chiefly occupied in calling over the 
 representatives, reading several certificates of public 
 friends present, from distant yearly meetings, and 
 in answering the five first queries. 
 
 In the afternoon the remaining queries were 
 answered. 
 
 4<th Month^ 16th At the third sitting a number 
 of epistles were received from different yearly 
 meetings on this continent, as well as one from 
 that held in London, Six thousand copies of the 
 latter were ordered to be printed, for distribution 
 within the district of this yearly meeting. 
 
KORTH AMERICA. 81 
 
 Last evening I attended a committee of the 
 yearly meeting, appointed for the revisal of the 
 discipline. 
 
 In the afternoon, I attended the fourth sitting ; 
 the early part of which was employed in reading- 
 several certificates of public friends present. Some 
 committees were also appointed; and a report 
 from the committee on the revision of the disci- 
 pline, was read and agreed to. 
 
 4th Month, 17th, In the morning, I attended 
 the fifth sitting, when the consideration on the 
 state of society, as it appeared from the answers 
 to the queries, was entered into. The minutes of 
 the meeting for sufferings were also read ; and an 
 epistle to the yearly meeting in London was read 
 and agreed to, 
 
 la the afternoon was the sixth sitting, when a 
 report of the state of Westown School was read. 
 Afterwards a discussion took place on the subject 
 of report of the Committee on Indian affairs 
 being read in the meeting ; but it ended without 
 any decision of the question at that time. A testi- 
 mony respecting Wm. Savery was read, and also 
 one on account of another deceased friend, which 
 concluded the meeting agreeably. 
 
82 TRAVELS IN 
 
 4^th Months 18^/z. Meetings for worship being 
 held at the three different meeting-houses in this 
 city, I attended that in Pine-street, and afterwards, 
 being kindly invited, I dined at N. W.'s, in com- 
 pany with a large number of friends, from different 
 parts of the continent. 
 
 In the afternoon, I attended the seventh sitting 
 of the yearly meeting, when it was almost imme- 
 diately agreed, that the report from the committee 
 on Indian affairs should be read; and it turned out 
 very interesting and satisfactory to the meeting at 
 large. After this sitting, I drank tea and spent a 
 pleasant evening at W. A.'s, in company with 
 J. S. a worthy minister, and a broom-maker j a 
 humble occupation, like that of the apostles of old. 
 
 4ith Months 19th. I attended the eighth sitting, 
 when the minutes of the last yearly meeting were 
 fead ; also the report of die committee on the revi- 
 sion of the discipline. In consequence of this 
 report, it was agreed that any friend paying money 
 in lieu of personal service in war, even though the 
 money thus paid should be applied to the uses of 
 the parochial p.oor, would infringe upon our tes- 
 timony against that dreadful evil. 
 
 In the afternoon, I attended the ninth sitting, 
 which was in various concerns of the society 
 
>'ORTH AMERICA. 83 
 
 In the evening I attended the Westown School 
 Committee. 
 
 4th Month, 20/'. I attended the tenth and last 
 sitting of the v early meeting. The epistles to 
 several yeaaly meeiings were read and greed to ; 
 afterwards several fvmale ^"riends were introduced 
 from the women's meeting. After a short pause, 
 one of them addressed herself to thv meeting; but 
 more particularly to those employed in bus andry, 
 who composed a large p ;rt of the body then pre- 
 sent. In lively and animated language she re- 
 mark d to them, that the nature of their employ- 
 ment ;fforded, in a peculiar manner, an opportu- 
 nity of observing the wonderful works of the 
 creation ; but, at the same time, she expressed a 
 fear that some of them did not sufficien ly, in 
 these thmgs, regard the Almighty and Beneficent 
 Author of every mercy. In the recollection 
 thereof, the words of a pious author occurred 
 to her m.emory, which were descriptive of a mind 
 truly alive to the feelings of gratitude and adora- 
 tion to the Great First Cause of all things ; and 
 are as follows : — 
 
 " He looks abroad into the varied field 
 
 " Of Nature, and th' poor, perhaps, compared 
 
 " With those whose mansions g-litter in liis sight, 
 
 " Calls the delightful scenery all his own. 
 
84 TRAVELS IK 
 
 " His are the mountains, and the vallles his; 
 
 " And the resplcndant rivers. His t' enjoy. 
 
 ** With a propriety that none can feel, 
 
 " But who, with filial coniidence inspir'd, 
 
 ** Can hft to Heaven an unpresumptuous eye, 
 
 " Can smilinp; say, * my father made them all 1' 
 
 *• Are tliey not his by a peculiar right, 
 
 " And by an emphasis of interest his, 
 
 ** Whose eye they fill with tears of holy joj^ 
 
 " Whose heart with praise ; and whose exalted mind, 
 
 ** With worthy thoughts of tl;ut unwearied lo\e 
 
 " Whiich plann'd, and built, and still upholds a world, 
 
 *♦ So cloth'd with beauty, for rebellious man ?" 
 
 During the time of expressing the above lines, 
 an unusual solemnity prevailed j and although a 
 very large number of friends were present, which 
 might amount to two thousand, yet not the least 
 discordant sound was heard. After the women 
 friends had withdrawn, some discussion took place 
 relative to the slave trade, in which it was lament- 
 ed that the endeavours of friends and otiiers, had 
 not produced the desired effect ; but, that it was 
 still carried on wdth rather increasing avidity. Un- 
 der these considerations, friends were called upon 
 in the most impressive terms, to remember the op- 
 pressed Africans, in their supplications at the 
 Throne of Mercy ; and, under the weight thereof, 
 the yearly meeting concluded to general satisfac- 
 tion. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 85 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Philadelphia, Is^c.—Tren ton — jYeiv- York — Burlington^ 
 Philadelphia — Xeivcastle -Baltimore — Washington— 
 Richmond — Alexandria — Contrast between Pennsyl- 
 vania and the States cultivated by Slaves. 
 
 .r 
 
 I remained at Philatiielphia, or in its vicinity, 
 for some wet^ks after the yearly meeting ; and the 
 13th of 5th Month, 1805, was spent at my relation's 
 W. B. Our time passed on very agreeably in travers- 
 ing his plantation, or farm, on the Banks of the 
 Schuylkill and Perkioming. The more I see of 
 it, the more I am convinced that it is one of the 
 most beautiful and healthful situations I have 
 known, either in America or in England. The 
 ground rising till it becomes elevated high above 
 the banks of the rivei's, commands a prospect as 
 delightful as can well be conceived. A view of 
 some of oar Noblemen''j Parks, on the more exten- 
 sive scale, may give a faint idea of the prospect 
 here seen ; for even with such it is comparing 
 small things with great ones, or putting art in com- 
 petition with nature. As far as the eye can com- 
 mand, one wide spreading Forest is seen, interspers- 
 ed with plantations or farms, and sheets of water; 
 
 H 
 
86 TRAVELS IN 
 
 which have a hale the appearance of lawns and 
 fishponds, such as are seen about the ancient seats 
 of our nobility; but upon a scale exceeding all 
 comparison. 
 
 ot/i Month^ 14th to the 16/A. I continued at my 
 relations ; and, in one of our walks along the mar- 
 gin of the Schuylkill, I observed a neat little cot- 
 tage, inhabited by a black family, to which the for- 
 mer orvner of the plantation had given their free- 
 dom, with this cottage and a few acres of land. 
 This little domain was managed with great econo- 
 my, and afforded them a comfortable and independ- 
 ent livelihood. We picked up several land tortoises, 
 a species of animal which abounds in these mea- 
 dows. Hi. re is also a great abundance of that kind 
 of tortoise, called the snapping turtle, which makes 
 very good soup ; and, as far as I am able 'o judge, 
 nearly equal to that made from the sea turtle. The 
 snapping turtles are voracious animals, destructive 
 to young ducks and goslings, laying hold of them 
 by the legs and dragging them under water to 
 devour them. 
 
 5th Months 17th, My relation kindly brought me 
 to Philadelphia in his coach, and remained with me 
 at our lodgings until next day ; after which I spent 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 87 
 
 about a week in the company of my friends in Phi- 
 ladelphia. 
 
 5th P4onth^ 24ft/2, I put 10 hogsheads of tobac- 
 co on board the Rose, Captain Hathaway, for 
 whxh I paid fourpence halfpenny per pound, 'ihe 
 Captain offering to take with him any iiitle matter 
 r was inclined to put under his care, I transmitted 
 a packet of letters, and several little articles for 
 my family ; and with them eight land tortoises, 
 which all got safe to England. In the same vessel 
 M. H. took her passage home, in company with 
 an English family, and a young man from Lan- 
 caster, in Pennsylvania. They were favoured to 
 arrive safe at Liverpool ; but this poor young man, 
 taking his passage in the Ontario, on his intended 
 return to America, was lost at sea ; the ship having 
 never been heard of after she left Liverpool. 
 
 After parting with Capt. H. I set out for New- 
 York, accompanied by J. J. and his sister ; and 
 having five other friends in company, we took the 
 whole stage to ourselves, as we were all going to 
 attend the yearly meeting in New- York. On our 
 way we passed the Delaware at Trenion, where we 
 d'med. I have remarked that some people in Ame- 
 rica, have a great predeliction for wearing boots, 
 and for smoaking segars. Even children of five 
 or six years of age, are sometimes seen, in their 
 
88 TRAVELS IN 
 
 Loots, smoking segars. At Trenton, I was enter- 
 tained with the sight of a company of journeymen 
 tailors, at the work-board, all booted as if ready 
 for mounting a horse. This article of dress is full 
 as expensive here as in England ; yet a boot-maker 
 told me, that he sometimes sold no less than three 
 pairs within the winter to some individuals who 
 earned their bread by their daily labour ; and, for 
 these, they paid 3Ss. sterling per pair. In the af- 
 ternon we passed Princeton, and, that night, lodg- 
 ed at Brunswick. 
 
 5th Month^ 25th, We breakfasted at Elizabeth 
 Town ; and arrived at Panles-hook Ferry about 
 noon. Here I saw a fleet of armed vessels, /. e* 
 four ships and one brig. As they were full of men 
 and guns, and the men were dressed in uniforms^ 
 they had a very warlike appearance. This fleet 
 was just returned from the island of St. Domingo, 
 with a very valuable cargo of coffee ; and was said 
 to have made the most successful voyage ever re- 
 membered. At the ferry we were told it was 
 
 O 's fleet, and was principally belonging to a 
 
 merchant in New-York of that name, who had ac- 
 quired very great riches thereby. This was a re- 
 markable instance of the great extent to which the 
 merchants of this country carry their mercantile 
 concerns ; yet so uncertain is trade, that this man 
 stopped pavment a few months afterwards. We 
 
NOHTH AMERICA. 88^ 
 
 crossed the North River, and arrived at New-York 
 to dinner; where X toak up my lodg ngs at my old 
 friend P. P/s, v/hom I. found in a weak state of 
 health. 
 
 5ih Month, 26ih, I attended New-York meet- 
 ing ; afterwards dined at J. B/s, in company with 
 two friends from Canada. In the afternoon I drank 
 tea at J. M.'s, in company with several other 
 friends: and spent the evening at C. and E. C. s. 
 
 5f.h Month, SXst, The last five days I spent in 
 attending the yearly meeting at New-York ; and 
 on the evening of the 31st attended a Committee 
 on Indian Affairs. This committee corresj)onds 
 with the Indians, who are disposed to be instruct- 
 ed and assisted by friends. I observed that the 
 communicatio .8 from the Indians consisted chiefly 
 in requests that friends would furnish them with 
 iron- work, and workmen to assist them in building 
 their houses and barns. 
 
 e>th 3hnth^ tst, I went to Flushing oii Long 
 Island, along with my relation T. W, and another 
 friend. On the 3d we returned io New- York, and, 
 in the afternoon, I set.out for Philadelphia, in the 
 Amboy Packet, in comp my with a French mer- 
 chant, his wife, and three children. They came 
 
 from Bordeaux, whence they were just arrived, 
 
 H2 
 
90 TRAVELS IN 
 
 We had also on board a young man from Montego 
 Bay, in Jamaica. The afternoon Leingfine and clear, 
 the wind fair, and the company agreeable, we had 
 a delightful sail to Amboy, being about 30 miles, 
 
 &th Mouthy 4th. I came to Burlington; and after 
 a pleasant evening spent in the family, slept at 
 G. D.'s. 
 
 6th Mouthy 5th, This morning I called upon J. 
 H. with whom I spent an hour or two very pleas- 
 antly, in company with Geo. Dillwyn. Most of 
 the time, we sat upon the benches at his door, the 
 weather being very fine and warm. It is verj^ com- 
 mon here to have benches, facing each other, on 
 the outside of their houses, at the doors, under the 
 shade of trees planted in the streets; where they 
 frequently sit enjoying the fresh breeze, and the 
 shade. Burlington is a pleasunt place in these re- 
 spects: the principal street being fronted by the 
 Delaware, has the benefit of the cool air blowing 
 from it. This evening I arrived at Philadelphia, 
 after a pleasant sail of 18 miles down the Dela- 
 ware. 
 
 7th Months 28th, After spending about seven 
 weeks in Philadelphia and its neighbourhood, 
 principally in attention to commercial engagements, 
 I this day set out, accompanied by Edward Wil- 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 91 
 
 son, for Bdtimore, in the Newcastle packet-boat. 
 We had a pleasant sail down the Delaware, and ar- 
 rived at Newcastle a little before noon ; 40 miles. 
 This place has the appearance of considerable an- 
 tiquity, though it is not very large ; and, in the 
 neighbourhood of it are many thorn fences, which 
 are seldom found in America. 
 
 7th Months 29ih^ We set out this morning for 
 French- Town, by the stage, where we arrived to 
 breakfast, 16 miles; and that place being on the 
 banks of the Chesapeake Bay, we there met with 
 the Baltimore Packet, in which we embarked, after 
 our refreshment. In sailing down the Bay, the 
 weather being fine, the Captain sent his boat along 
 shore to collect drift wood, for the fire; and she 
 soon returned well loaded. On board the packet, 
 we dined, supped, and lodged, and breakfasted next 
 morning. For all this and our passage, we paid 
 five dollars each. 
 
 7th Month^ 30th. After breakfasting on board 
 the packet in Chesapeake Bay, we landed at Balti- 
 more ; and, passing a few miles up the river Potap- 
 sco, I spent the remainder of the day in business, 
 and took up my lodgings at J. T.'s. 
 
 Sth Mouthy Sd. This evening I visited Ellicott's 
 Mills, in company with J. T. and his wife. The 
 overseer of these mills informed me they could 
 
92 ■ TRAVELS IN 
 
 * _ 
 
 grind and pack SCO barrels of fiour per day. A 
 barrel being 196lbs. or 14st. the annual returns, 
 at 3s. per stone, would be nearly 200,0001. '1 he 
 stones were 7 feet in diameter. 
 
 mh Months 6t/u I left Baltimore, in company 
 with T. M. of Sandy Springs. In the evcnmg we 
 reached George-Town, where he is employed, by 
 the corporation, to fill up the deep channel of the 
 Patowmack, on the south side of Mason's Island, 
 in order to turn the stream of that river to the side 
 next to GeorgCrXown, that the harbour may be 
 deepe,ned. Near Bladensburg we passed a Caro- 
 lina Slave Merchant, vrith a company of slaves, 
 men, women, and children ; who all stopped at the 
 door of the inn where we dined. Some of them 
 appeared much dejected ; and, on my questioning 
 them, they told me they were taken from their 
 relatives and friends b}- force.. One of the.females 
 being known to a black man in the stage, he asked 
 her how she came there, knowing her to be a free 
 black. She replied, that same time since, her 
 husband had been taken from her, and carried 
 into the Carolmas ; and that she had determined 
 to follow him in his bondage. This appeared to 
 be a remarkable proof of conjugal affection, and. 
 showed a high degree of sensibility : but, in thus 
 following her husband, there is great reason to 
 fsar, from the general conduct of these Slave 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 93 
 
 Merchants, that she herself would be sold as a slave 
 by this mm; who, under pretence of taking her to 
 her husba 'd, would proba')ly betray her. This 
 night I lodged at Wm. Morgan's, in George-Town, 
 at whose house T. Moor also lodged. Q./ 
 
 8th Month^ 7th, I went to Washington city. 
 The next day I visited Doctor Thornton, of the 
 Patent OfRce, and was shown a variety of curious 
 models. I noticed one in particular, for picking, 
 carding, and spinning cotton, which might be 
 wrought by a child of five or six years old j and 
 though in but little compass, would spin 18 threads 
 at once. In the afternoon I visited General 
 Mason's residence on Mason's Island, which is a 
 very beautiful spot. In this excursion I had the 
 company of T. Moor, Samuel Brooks, and the 
 Mayor of the city, who assisted in rowing the 
 boat. The great officers of these cities are not 
 above occasional offices of this kind. In the even- 
 ing, I came to Wm. Morgan's, and lodged there. 
 
 8th Months 9th. I sailed down the Patowmack 
 to Alexandria, and took up my quarters with my 
 kind friend and relative P. J. who had married 
 M. L. a cousin of my brother J. L. 
 
 8fh Month, \3th, I spent this day at Fredericks- 
 burg, a considerable town on the Rappahannock, 
 to which I came in the stage yesterday. Some 
 
 / 
 
94 TRAVELS IN 
 
 business continues to be done here in tobacco ; but 
 that trade is much on the dechne. 
 
 Sth Mont/iy 14th, I came to Richmond, through 
 a country cultivated b)'^ black slaves ; where, as 
 a matter of course, poverty and wretchedness 
 seem to abound. The different appearance of 
 those States, in which slaves are employed, when 
 compared with Pennsylvania and the other States 
 where slavery is not permitted, is truly astonishing. 
 
 Sth Monthy \5th. I spent this day at Rich- 
 mond. In the evening I walked to IVIanchester, over 
 the bridge at James's River, which at this place is 
 nearl) half a mile wide. From my own observations, 
 and the information I received from an inhabitant, 
 Richmond appears to be a place of great dissipa- 
 tion ; chiefly arising from the loose and debauched 
 conduct of the white people wi.h their black 
 female slaves. It sometimes happens here, as in 
 other places, that the white inhabitants, in selling 
 the offspring of these poor debased females, sell 
 their own sons and daughters, with as much indif- 
 ference as they would sell their cattle. By such 
 means, every tender sentiment of the human 
 breast is laid waste, and men become so degraded, 
 that their feelings rank but little above those of 
 the beasts of the field. In the treatment of their 
 offspring, how far do some of the brute creation 
 surpass thtiii ! 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 95 
 
 An active clever woman of this plaee, with a 
 servant and two children, came with me in the 
 stage part of tiie way to Fredericksbiirgh. She 
 told me that she was a native of Edinburgh, and 
 that her husband and lamilx' had bee?i se tried for 
 some time in Richmond, as linen-drapers and mil- 
 liners ; had been successful in business, and had 
 the prospect of a continuance of success ; but, as 
 a longer residence there, would, in their view, be 
 attended with almost certain ruin to the morals of 
 their chi dren, they had determined to leave the 
 place, and remove to a less exposed situation ; 
 where they would not be tried with the con- 
 taminating influence and effects of this unhollowed 
 system of slavery. For an active, industrious 
 couple, with a numerous rising family, thus to 
 come to the resolution of quittmg a lucrative bu- 
 siness and situation, on these grounds, is, I think, 
 a mark of best wisdom and sound judgment, and 
 is worthy the imitation of all those who are alike 
 circumstanced. 
 
 Sth, Month^ 16th. I left Richmond in the 
 morning ; and reached the Bowling-green Tavern 
 to dinner. The owner of the plantation on which 
 this Tavern stands, it was said, had more than 200 
 slaves in his employment. I reached Fredericks- 
 burgh this night. In passing along, I saw some 
 Yams growing, at a little distance, south of Fred- 
 ericksburgh. 
 
96 TRAVELS IN 
 
 ^th Mentha 17th. I came this day to Alexan- 
 dria. In coming we passed Mount Vernon, the 
 habitation of the late General Washington, a little 
 on the right, about 10 or 12 miles from Alexan- 
 dria. When we came within about 5 miles of this 
 city, the stage driver told us that before sun-rise 
 in the morning, while it was yet rather dark, close 
 by the place we then were at, his 4 horses suddenly 
 stopped ; but for what cause he could not con- 
 jecture. However, on giving them a smart stroke 
 or two with the whip, they suddenly started for- 
 ward, when he immediately saw a very large 
 snake entangled amongst their legs ; but, push- 
 ing on with great violence, they soon cleared 
 themselves ; and the stage drove directly over it. 
 The sound of the horses hoofs, and the sensation 
 
 he felt when the carriage passed over the snake, 
 raised in him the idea of driving over several 
 
 sheaves of wheat ; and, to the best of his judgment, 
 from the fauit view he had of the reptile, he be- 
 lieved it to be as thick as the calf of of a man's leg. 
 The passengers were alarmed, but, on recovering 
 from their fright, insisted upon getting out, and en- 
 deavouring to find the smike, believing that he must 
 be disabled by the wheels of the carriage. They ac- 
 cordingly searched about the place, but could see 
 nothing of him ; and, as there was a stream near, 
 they supposed he had got into it, and had floated 
 down with the current. The senior Magistrate of 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 97 
 
 Alexandria was present in the stage, as the driver 
 gave this account ; and being well acquainted with 
 the man, considered him worthy of credit. 
 
 ^th Month^ 18th. I attended Alexandria meet- 
 ing ; and, in the afternoon, drank tea with a friend 
 from Birmingham, now well settled here with his 
 wife and children. My home was at P. J.'s where 
 I lodged and wrs kindly, entertained. 
 
 The number of black slaves kept in and near 
 Alexandria, is very great. On market days many 
 come out of the country with fruit, vegetables, 
 &c. and some, even girls of 10 or 12 years of age, 
 are seen walking the streets with baskets on tluir 
 heads, without any cl -thing. Some, both men and 
 women, are nearly wi hout clothing ; and what little 
 is allowed to many of them is all in rags. Their com- 
 mon full dress is a coarse sacking or linsey woolsey 
 shirt and trowsers for the men ; and, for the women 
 a long garment or a petticoat, and a short waist- 
 coat of the same meterials ; both sexes go without 
 shoes or stockings, and mostly without hats. I 
 understood from a respectable person that farther 
 to the South he has seen, at the houses of what 
 are called gentlemen, the young blacks waiting 
 at table, quite naked ; without discovering any 
 appearance of shame either in master or slave. 
 
 There is a very striking contrast between the ap- 
 pearance of the horses or teams in Pennsylvania, 
 
 I 
 
98 TRAVELS IN 
 
 and those in the Southern States where slaves are 
 kept. In Pennsylvania we meet great numbers 
 of waggons, drawn by 4 or more fine fat ho.ses ; 
 the carriages firm and well made, and covered 
 with stout, good linen, bleached almost white ; 
 and it is not uncommon to see 10 or 15 together, 
 travelling cheerfully along the road, the driver 
 riding on one of his horses. Many of these come 
 more than 300 miles to Philadelphia, from the 
 Ohio, Pittsburgh, and other places ; and I have 
 been told by a respectable friend, a native of i hi- 
 ladelphia, th t more than ICOO covered carri ges 
 frequently come to Philadelphia market. Indeed 
 the appearance of them on market-days, in Market- 
 street, which is 2 miles in length, and about 40 
 yards in width, is such as no stranger can havr a 
 just conception of; to say nothing of the adjoining 
 streets, which are crowded with farmers's carts and 
 waggons from every quarter. 
 
 The appearance of things in the Slave States is 
 quite the revet se of this. Wc sometimes meet 
 a ragged black boy or girl, driving a team consist- 
 ing of a lean cow and a mule j sometimes a ieaa 
 bull or an ox, and a mule ; and 1 have seen a miile, 
 SI bull, and a cow, each miserable m its appear- 
 ance, composing one t. am, with a half-nakc d 
 black slave or .wo, ridir g or drivirg, as occasion 
 suited. The carriage or waggon, if it may be 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 99 
 
 called such, appeared in as wretched a condition 
 as the team and its driver. Sometimes a couple 
 of horses, mules, or cows, &c. would be dragging 
 a hogshi^ad of tobacco, with a pivot or axel driven 
 into each end of the hogshead, and something like 
 a shaft attached, by which it was drawn or rolled 
 alon.^- the road. I have seen two oxen and two 
 slaves pretty fully employed m getting along a 
 single hogshead; and some of these come from a 
 great distance inland. 
 
 In the evening of this day, I had a pleasant sail 
 up the Patowmack to George-Town, where I 
 lodged. 
 
100 TRAVELS IN 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 JJai hlngton — Frc de rick - To ivn — York- To 7i;n— Co/w pi- 
 bia— 'Lancaster — Merlon — Radnor. 
 
 19tk of 8th Months 1805. I spent this day at 
 vVa&hington City and George-Town ; dined at 
 Doctor Thornton's, an old school-fellow, and a 
 descendant of Governor Pickering of Tortola. I 
 likewise spent the evening with the Doctor at the 
 Patent Office, from which we had a beautiful pros- 
 pect down the Potowmack. 
 
 I spent two days more at Frederick-town, being 
 detained by the stage. Great numbers of black 
 slaves are kept in this part of Maryland. One 
 farmer was mentioned to me who kept upwards of 
 200 ; and from the quantity of land he had under 
 cultivation, there did not appear to be more than 
 10 acres to one slave; which of course could yield 
 but little profit to the owner. I was to:d of one 
 couple of slaves he had, who lived as man and wife, 
 and were valued at more than 400l. on account of 
 their stout healthy children ; whom he could sell 
 at a very high price when young. From the infor- 
 mation I received, it appeared that breeding slaves 
 was the best part of his business. Such is the 
 corrupt state of things where slavery is per- 
 mitted. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 101 
 
 8ih Months ^od, I came to Hanover, in compa- 
 ny with two persons of the name of Smith, grand- 
 sons of a friend in the ministry who formerly re- 
 sided at Marlborough, in Chester county, I'ennsyl- 
 vania. John Woohnan mrtkes honourable mention 
 of this friend in his journal. 
 
 ^th Mor.th^ 94th. This morning we passed 
 through Yotk-Town, where we breakfasted. At the 
 Assizes or Sessions, which were held at that time, 
 a boy of about 15 years of age, v/as convicted of 
 the wilful and deliberate murder of his play-fellow, 
 a little boy two or 3 years younger than himself. 
 The reason he assigned for this cruel act was, that 
 his comprmion had won a few pence from him at 
 some game of chance. A lawyer v/ho had attend- 
 ed the trial, was with us in the stage, and said that 
 the culprit appeared urxoncerned as to the issue ; 
 and when convicted, showed no en.ot'on ; but with 
 a great deal of indifference requested that his ac- 
 quaintances would attend at his execu'ion ; which 
 they did. 
 
 At noon we^came to the Susquehanna, on the op- 
 posite shove to Columbia, where we dined. Th:s 
 is one of the most beautiful and roman;ic parts of 
 America. The river is here about one mile broad, 
 with a number of beautiful little is-ands spread 
 over it. Y^ hat added greatly to the beauty of the 
 scene, were the high rocks which rise from the 
 
102 TRAVELS IJT 
 
 margin of the river, and near which were seen ma- 
 ny eagles and fish-hawks soaring in the air ; the lat- 
 ter frequently darting into the water, where they 
 make a prey of the fish. In rising again, it fre- 
 quently happens that the eagles pursue the hawks, 
 and compel them to let go their prize ; and such is 
 the swiftness of the eagle, that he will often dart 
 down and seize the fish, before it reaches the 
 water. 
 
 In the shallow parts of the river, many beautiful 
 white herons are seen, stalking along in search of 
 food, making a beautiful variety in the prospect. 
 
 I saw a number of large fiat-bottomed boats in 
 this river, some of which had come upwards of 
 300 miles, and could carry 1000 bushels of wheat. 
 The largest of them are more than 70 feet in length, 
 but calculated for one voyage only, and for floating 
 down the rivers with the stream, over shallows and 
 falls ; for when they arrive at the place of their 
 destination, they are taken in pieces and the 
 timber is used for other purposes. Exclusive 
 of these boats, which are culled arks, and have 
 frequently a kind of cottage upon them, in which 
 several persons are accommodated during the 
 voyage ; there are also many large floats of timber 
 which are so fixed together, that they appear like 
 one large compact body, on which a small dwelling- 
 house is built for the accommodation of a family. 
 
 13 ^ 
 
NORTH AMEKICA. I0o 
 
 These floats sometimes contain several thousand 
 feet of timber, which are conveyed in this way se- 
 veral hundred miles, at a very trifling expense. Af- 
 ter crossing this beautiful river in the ferry- boat, we 
 came to Columbia, a small new built town rising 
 fast into importance. Here we again entered into 
 the stage, and passing through a fine well-cultivated 
 country, on a good turnpike-road, we came to 
 Lancaster ; which is considered the best inland 
 town in North America, and is about 12 miles 
 di^:tant from Columbi.^ 
 
 Sth Month, 25 ih. This was the first day of the 
 week: and there being no meeting of friends in 
 Lancaster, I was induced to inquire if no friend 
 resided there, and was informed of a person resident 
 in the town, who was a member of our society. 
 I called upon him and was kindly entertained by 
 him the whole of the afternoon. After a little 
 conversation with him, I found he was a father 
 to one of my customers in America. I have often 
 thought it a great privilege in our society, that 
 such an interchange of hospitality and freedom pre- 
 vails among us. It has a great tendency to smooth 
 the path of life, especially to strangers in a strange 
 land. In the course of conversation in this familv, 
 I found that Major Andre and Colonel Despard 
 had both taken up iheir lodgings with them, 
 when prisoners on parole to the Americans. 
 They spoXe very respectfully of Major Andre, who 
 
104 TBAVELS IN 
 
 had so conducted himself as to gain much upon 
 the aflection of the whole family. Some of his 
 drawings and letters were shewn to me, which 
 they preserved with great care. 
 
 8th 3Ionth^ 2Gth, The short time I remained 
 in Lancaster, I found that considerable business 
 was done in the mar-ufactory of locks, latches, and 
 rifle guns, all of which are esteemed to be superior to 
 those imported from England. This day I came to 
 Philadelphia and hud the company of Judge Yates 
 the whole of the way. In the evening, I attended 
 the burial of C. W. a young man whom I had left 
 but a few days before in^^ood health. 
 
 Bth Month^ 3l5f. The last five days have been 
 spent at Merion. At this pla:e I w: s told that 
 as William Penn v;as on^e comir g up from New- 
 castle to Philadelphia, a fiiend in the v ssel re- 
 marked that both the wind and the tide were agairist 
 them; Wiliam P nn immediat ly replied, that 
 " himself had been sailing against wide and tide 
 all his life." I'his reply was very descriptive of 
 the difficulties which this great man encoup.tered 
 
 in the world. 
 
 9M Monthy 21st. The last three wc ks I con- 
 tinued at Merion, occasionly going to Philadel- 
 phia on busiress. In the afternoon of tl is day I 
 visited P. A. and his wife at H. Bowman's. 
 
NORTH a:.ip:rica. 105 
 
 they are an ancient couple of plain, honest friends, 
 both in the ministry. The grandfather of the for- 
 mer came amongst friends in a remarkable way. 
 He resided near the sea coast in the Jerseys, and 
 being an active lively yomig man, he used some- 
 times to employ himself in playing upon a violin 
 amongst his neighbours ; especially when the young 
 people were collected to dance and make merry. 
 After one of these occasions, as he was returning 
 hom^e, late in the evening, he observed a human 
 skull lying upon the sand ; which", as he passed by, 
 caused some serious reflections; but they passed 
 off for the present. Going that way again some- 
 time after, the impressions were renewed, and 
 while he was musing over the skull, which had 
 thus, a second time, been the means of bringing 
 into his mind a train of serious reflections, he con- 
 cluded to bury this dry bone which had so power- 
 fully preached to him. He covered it carefully 
 up in the earth, and went home, enjoying the 
 pleasing reflection of having performed this last 
 office to the remains of a fellow-creature. Such, 
 however, were the weight and solemnity occasioned 
 by the impressions of his mind from this circum- 
 stance, that a total change in his life and conversa« 
 tion succeeded ; and, shortly after, he joined friends 
 and became a valuabl>i minister in the society. 
 Some mention is made of this friend, 1 believe in 
 Thomas Chalkley's Journal. H.s name was Ed- 
 ward Andrews. 
 
106 TRAVELS IV 
 
 9th Mjiithy 2?;lh, I siil remained at Merioa ; 
 and, this morning, attended meeting there. In the 
 afternoon, I had the curiosity to take a view of a 
 large methodist meeting, held near us, called a 
 camp meexing ; which had been continued about 
 a week, almost night and day. The concourse of 
 people was very great ; and numbers of them, it 
 was said, \r.\(l come several hundred miles to attend 
 the meetii.g. Many lents and huts were erected 
 on the spot ; and a great number of carriages of 
 various descriptions, such as coaches, coachees, 
 chairs, covered waggons, carts, &c. &c. were col- 
 lected under the shade oT a lofty forest. From 
 some conversation I had w th one of the conductors 
 of this assembly, I understooil that great exertions 
 had been used to preserve order, especially through 
 the night ; and, that, at tt;n o'clock in the eveni' g, 
 patroles vv'ent round the encampment to see that 
 all were in their proper tents and places. Those 
 who had not a birth within the camp were sent out. 
 Their meetings had been kept up for several days 
 With almost incredible zeal, from early in the morn- 
 ing until late in the evening; and, even after tliey 
 had withdrawn into their huts and tents, numbers of 
 them continued in prayer through a great part of 
 the night. It may well be supposed therefore 
 that the preachers were a good deal exhausted ; 
 especially as their language and gestures were 
 generally violent. Some of the most zealous 
 would quite exhaust themselves in less than an 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 107 
 
 hour ; but, there being a considerable number on the 
 stage on which tiey preach d, their places were sup- 
 plied immediately on then sitting .iovvn. I observ- 
 ed that a great number ot Xegro families attended ; 
 and maiiy ot them in handsome carriages. The 
 w ole number of persons composing this meeting 
 was said to be 50uO. 
 
 10th Mo?ith^ Zd, I spent the last four days at 
 Merion. We have lately had the agreeable com- 
 pany of divers friends, some of whom left Phila- 
 delphia on account of the yellow fever, which 
 prevailed m the city. 
 
 10th Months 4<th. I attended Merion meeting, 
 where we had the company oi Kl zabeth Coggeshall 
 and Elizdbeth bird. Auer meeting I spent so.ne 
 time gwith chem pleasantly, at the house of a 
 young man who had been disowned lor taking up 
 arms ; but who had lately been reinstated ; and mto 
 membership about the same time. 
 
 10th Months 5th, Joseph Paul kindly took me 
 in his carriage, to see a large encampment on the 
 Ridge Road, where many poor peroons were acom- 
 modated, who nad left Philadelphia to avoid the 
 infection of the yellow fever. Afterwards, we visit- 
 ed t:;e gardens and green-houss of Wm. Hamilton, 
 where we saw a number of plants and shrubs, 
 natives of every quarter of the world. 
 
108 TRAVELS IN 
 
 10€h Mont/u \Oth. I went to Radnor monthly 
 meeting ; at which was a couple, who were about 
 to be married ; for whose accommodation the meet- 
 ing at Meri.n was agrted to be hi id on 5th day, 
 inste-id of 6th ; and the alteration appearing eligi- 
 ble for a continuance, was so determined. Alter 
 meeting, I dined at J. H.'s, and supped and spent 
 the evening at O. J.'s. This friend was one of 
 those who suffered banishment on account of their 
 supposed attachmenc to the British, during the 
 re\olution. His sister told me that on William 
 Pern's arrival in America, he lodged at her great 
 grandfather's at Merion. At that time her grand- 
 father was a boy of about 12 yeaxs old ; and being 
 a lad of some curiosity, ai)d not often seeing such 
 a guest as Wm. Penn, he privately crept to :he 
 chamber door, up a (light of steps, on the outside of 
 the building, which waso. ly akg-housc. On peep- 
 ing through the latchet-ho!e, he was struck with 
 awe, in beholding this great man upon his knees, 
 by th'- bed-side ; and could distinctly hear him in 
 Drayer, and thanksgiving, that he was thus pro- 
 vided for in the wilderness. This circumstance 
 made an impression upon the lad's mind, which 
 was not effaced in old age. 
 
VORTH ABIERieA. 109 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Haverford — leaves Merion — Borden Town — Amhoy^ 
 New- Tork — Hudson — Nine Partners — ^tarter ly 
 Meeting — Hudson — Albany — Troy. 
 
 12th of \Qth Months 1805. I returned from 
 Radnor to Merion, and this day attended Haverford 
 meeting, at which were several strangers. This is 
 one of the oldest meeting-houses in America ; and 
 at rhe early settlement of this meeting, friends of 
 Philadelphia went every third first day to attend 
 it ; most of them coming on foot a distance of 
 about ten miles. At that time nearly the whole 
 of the road was through a shady forest. Amongst 
 the rest, Wm. Penn used to come on horseback 
 and would occasionally take up a little bare-footed 
 girl behind him, to relieve her when tired. By 
 the early minutes of the monthly meeting, it ap- 
 pears that several friends were appointed to mark 
 out a road through the woods from Philadelphia, 
 to Haverford and Radnor meetings. 
 
 \Otk Month 13th, I attended Merion meeting, 
 at which was Sarah Harrison, who visited us at 
 our lodgings after meeting ; and we spent the after- 
 noon with her at the widow George's, 
 
 10th Month, 14M, was spent at Merion, prin- 
 cipally in writing to different correspondents in 
 America, K 
 
110 TRAVELS IN 
 
 \Vth Month, 15th, was employed in writing to 
 my dear wife and the children, and to some of my 
 relations and friends in England. 
 
 lOlh Month, 16th, was spent at Merion in writ- 
 ing, and in the very acceptable company of a 
 family, our fellow-boarders, w^hom I was about to 
 leave with regret ; intending next day to set out on 
 a viiit to my cousin H. M.'s family at Hudson on 
 the North River, and to my cousin J. E.'s, at Elk- 
 land's, near the head of the Susquehanna. 
 
 10th Month, 17th. This day I came to E. W.'s, 
 and J. P. being so kind as to take me to Frank- 
 fort in his carriage, I embraced the opportunity 
 of visiting a brother of his on the banks of the 
 Delaware, where I spent an hour or two agreeably. 
 Afterwards, he took me in his chaise to the stage 
 office, whence I rode to the shore opposite Borden 
 Town in the Mail Pilot. In crossing the Dela- 
 ware to that place, I fell in company with a respec- 
 table old Scotchman, who had been amusing him- 
 self in fishing. He told me that he had sometimes 
 had the company of General Moreau in his amuse- 
 ments, of whom he spoke highly, as a man of mild 
 and agreeable manners. I spent this evening at 
 Borden Town, the residence of the noted Thomas 
 Payne. My lodgings being at the tavern from 
 whence the stage set out early in the morning, I 
 
XORTH AMERICA. Ill 
 
 was thrown into a mixed company of the towns- 
 people. Being a stranger, this extraordinary 
 person was introduced as a subject of conver- 
 sation ; but the company being of different reli- 
 gious and political sentiments, I found that nothing 
 correct could be gathered respecting the charac- 
 ter of this mail, even amongst his townsmen and 
 neighbours. Some of them asserted that he was a 
 drunkard'; othrs the contrary. Some asserted that 
 he was not fit to live, and others with equal earnest- 
 ness that h. was an upright honest iiian, and kind 
 and friendly to the poor. Perhaps all might have 
 some ground for their assertions, by viewing dif- 
 ferent periods of his life ; but what appeared the 
 most remarkable was an observation of the land- 
 lady, who asserted her belief, that he was an 
 enemy to American fredom, and that he was 
 supported by Great Britain, and was the friend of 
 that Government. In proof of her assertion, she 
 said that he had treacherously mixed black sand 
 in the American gunpowder, intended to be used 
 against the English. All this, however, manifested 
 that the mind of man is liable to be darkened and 
 clouded by party spirit, which so much prevails in 
 the world ; and which seems inseparable from free 
 Governments, when mankind, individually, are un- 
 willing to come under the government of the Prince 
 of Peace. 
 
11.2 TvRAVELS IN 
 
 10th Month^ \8th, I set out for Amboy, through 
 the Jerseys. 
 
 10th Motith, ldth» I came to South Amboy ; 
 some parts of the road were through a IVuittul land, 
 and others through a h\nd almost as sandy and bar- 
 ren as the deserts ol Arabia* 
 
 10th Month, 20th. I was unexpectedly detained 
 at Amboy, the packet not arriving in time. — 
 This being first day, and there being no meeting 
 near the place, I spent my time in walking along 
 the sea shore, and observing the variety of marine 
 productions that were spread along the coast. 
 Having my little bible, it was not the least of 
 gratifications, occasionally to sit down upon a piece 
 of the wreck of some stranded vessel, which the 
 stormy ocean had cast upon the beach, and read a 
 page- or two in that instructive volume. Whilst 
 thus employed I could not help pitying that poor 
 man of Borden Town, whose name 1 have recently 
 mentioned, for having so unwisely deprived him- 
 self of the great consolations which the Scriptures 
 afford, by cultivadng a disbelief of the truths 
 which have been recorded for our comfort and 
 instruction through time. — The situation of Amboy 
 is peculiarly beautiful as to prospects. It com- 
 mands a full view of the Neversink Mountains, 
 and of the light-house at Sandy-Hook, by which 
 vessels generally pass in going to and from New- 
 
NORTH AMERICA, 113 
 
 York and the Atlantic ; particularly those in the 
 European trade. Other vessels also come up the 
 Raritan and the Hackinsack rivers, which add to 
 the beauty of the scene. 
 
 10th Mojith^ 2Ut, I went on board the packet 
 for New-York, directly after a breakJast made 
 chiefly of stewed oysters. These shell- fish abound 
 so much here, that little children are taught to eat 
 them to breakfast. The landlady told me, that she 
 sometimes had 2 or 300 bushtls in the cellar, at a 
 time in the winter season. After being on board 
 about a quarter of an hour, we were invited by 
 signal to touch at Perth Amboy, on the opposite 
 shore ; where we landed about ten o'clock, and 
 took in two families for New- York. As we sailed 
 along this Bay, I had an opportunity of seeing the 
 oyster fishers, who were busily employed. The 
 instruments they generally used, somewhat resem- 
 bled two hay-rakes, with long iron teeth, having 
 the handles, which are very long, pinned together 
 about two feet from the heads of the rakes, so as 
 to open and shut like a pair of large pincers. 
 These instruments, which are called tongs, are 
 opened wide when the heads are let down from 
 the boat ; and, so soon as they reach the bottom, 
 the men close them, and the teeth of the rakes 
 meeting drag the oysters together. By this method 
 from one to three or four oysters are taken at a 
 time. K 2 
 
jH travels in 
 
 In sailing from Perth Amboy to New-York, 
 we picked up a good new boat, worth 10 or 12 
 guineas, which was drifting out to sea. Having 
 been so detained at Perth Amboy, and the wind 
 proving unfavourable, we did not arrive at New- 
 York until after dark. As the yellow fever had for 
 some time prevailed at New-York, 1 was desirous of 
 being put on shore at Brooklyn, on Long Island ; 
 but, the night being dark with wind and rain, I 
 could not prevail upon the Captain of the packet to 
 land me ; nor could I obtain a boat of any kind 
 to take me over, I was therefore under the neces- 
 sity of going to New- York, where all was silent and 
 solitary ; and what used to be the busiest parts, 
 were now without an inhabitant to be seen. 
 
 Having landed at Quince's Wharf, I went along 
 Water-sireet to the Fly- market Wharf, hoping to 
 meet with the ferry-boat; but here likewise all was 
 silence and solitude. I then went through the 
 whole length of Fly-market, which h.d the ap- 
 pearance of having been untrodden for weeks past ; 
 the light of some lamps shewing the boarded floor 
 to be as clean as that of a parlour. From the Fly- 
 market, I crossed Pearl-street, into Maiden-lane, 
 and went on to Broad-way, to the City He tel, a 
 large spacious inn ; where I was the only guest. 
 When I was here last, the house was crowded with 
 company : so much had this awful visitation varied 
 the scene in every part of this busy city. Some 
 
NORTH AMEHICA. IIJ 
 
 of Its inhabitants, with whom I had been well 
 acquainted, had been suddenly taken a\y ay by the 
 ravages of that dr^iadful disease. The next morn- 
 ing I left New-York, and passing through Green- 
 wich, and over Harlem Bridge, I arrived at 
 T. W.*s to d nner. There I spent the afternoon in 
 company with one of the Pilots for the Sound, a 
 healthy od man between 80 and 90 years of age, 
 who frequently walked ,20 miles a-day. In coming 
 up to T. VV.'s, I passed through Greenwich, a vil- 
 lage to which the business of New-York, together 
 with the banks and public offices, were removtcl on 
 account of the yellow fever. The bustle and con- 
 fusion occasioned thereby is not easily conceived. 
 For the accommodation of the merchants, many 
 temporary wooden buildings were erecttd. 
 
 lOtfi Monthy 23d, I accompanied T. and E. 
 W. to West Chester meeting J and, in the after- 
 noon, drank tea and spent a few hours with I. C.'s 
 family, who were under affliction on account of 
 the decease of his wife. She had been lately re- 
 moved by the yellow fever, having, it was sup- 
 posed, taken the infection the day previtjus to 
 her coming to West Chester; to which place the 
 familv had removed for safety from tLe infection. 
 The removal of this valuable friend, has been a 
 very trying dispensation to her husband and family. 
 If r understand right, she has left 13 children. 
 
llQ TKAVELS IN 
 
 In conversation with her daughters, I under- 
 stood that that the family were not aware that her 
 complaint was the yellow fever, until after her 
 decease. She was preserved in so much stillness 
 and quietness, and, apparently, under so little 
 bodily pain during the progress of the disorder, 
 that they had no apprehension of its being this 
 dreadful complaint, until afterwards informed by 
 the medical attendants. I lodged this night and 
 the preceding at T. W.'s. 
 
 10th Mouthy 24th, I came down with T. W. 
 in his chair, to Greenwich, on business. There I 
 received letters from home, and also forwarded 
 divers others to England, by the Centurion. 
 
 10th Mouthy 25th, This day and yesterday I 
 made my home at F. T.'s, where 1 lodged. 
 
 10th Month, 26th. This afternoon I left F. T.'s, 
 and went on board a Hudson packet, called the 
 Traveller, of which Ely Bunker, a friend of Hud- 
 son, was owner and captain. As soon as the tide 
 served, we sailed up the North River, having in 
 company a young man from HuJson, and a young 
 woman that was on her way to visit a sister who 
 lay sick at Hudson. 
 
 10th Months 27th, This and the preceding night 
 I4odged on board the packet. In sailing along this 
 
NORTH AMKaiCA, llf 
 
 river, the scenery a:id prospects are in many 
 places g- and and beautiful in a high dtg' tQ ; espe- 
 cially in sailing by the Highlands, Sioney Point, 
 and the Katskill Mountains. Sometimes, for a 
 considerable distance, the rocks rise from the edge 
 of the river, in bold, lofty precipices, similar to 
 those of Middleton Dale, in Derbysh.re ; and the 
 river in m.my parts, is from one to two miles 
 over. This gives room for the vc:ssels, which 
 navigate the rivc:r, to pass and repass each oth.,r 
 v/ithout danger ; although the number is said to be 
 upwards of 1600. They consist chiefly of sloops 
 of about 70 tons burthen ; yet large ships are oca- 
 sionally seen as high up as Hudson's and Athens, 
 being about 150 miles up the country. In sailing 
 on this river, we sonittimcs had the sight of 15 or 20 
 vessels within a short distance of us ; and Captain 
 B nker mentioned that he had sometimes seen 50 
 in company. Although this river is pretty straight, 
 in general, yet it frequently vv inds its way between 
 lo.ty rocks aud mountains, which cause a variety 
 of currents in the wind, so as to require a good 
 deU of care and management to v/ork the vessels 
 to advantage. It was aniusmg sometimes to ob- 
 serve that, while we lay becalmed on o-e side of 
 the stream under a lofty rock, the vessels which hap. 
 pened to bj on the contrary side, wojld skim past 
 us like an arrow, with a fair wind, leaving us far 
 behind; and at the same time .he company would 
 divert themselves at our difficulties as they g ided 
 
118 TRAVELS IN 
 
 past ; but, before we got many miles, it sometimes i 
 happened that the tables were turned ; and the winds 
 would favour us to get before those wh<> had so 
 recently derided us. To persons disposed to 
 moralize, there was somewhat instructive in these 
 changes of scene j as we may not unfrequently 
 observe similar occurrences in our passage through 
 life. 
 
 lOth^ Morth^ 2Sth, I arrived at Hudson early 
 in the afternoon, and paid for my passage, of 
 about 150 miles, one dollar and a half; and was 
 charged three quarters of a dollar per d ^y for 
 board and liquor daring the voyage. As we 
 were about leaving the sloop, a boy came on 
 board, and abruptly told the young woman, our 
 fellow-passenger, that her sister, whom she was 
 come to see, had just breathed her last. This 
 proved more than the poor girl could bear ; and 
 she was not in a situation to leave the vessel while 
 I staid. It was a great pity that more caution 
 was not observed in conveying such afflictive intel- 
 ligence. In stepping ashore at Hudson, one of the 
 first persons I met with was George Bunker, the 
 first mate of the ship in which I came over 
 to America, whose family reside here. He 
 kindly sent his son as my guide to T. C.'s, whence 
 I went that evening to H, iM.'s, and lodged at his 
 house on the banks of Claverick Creek, 
 
NORTH AMEHICA. Hy 
 
 lOfh Month^ 29th, I spent this day pleasantly at 
 Sunnyside, the residence ofartlation, and went with 
 him over his farm. He has purchabed 300 acres 
 ©f land, with a dwelling-house and barn, for 900], 
 sterling. The estate runs near a mile on the 
 banks of a river, which is stored with plenty of fish, 
 and which passes into the North River about five 
 miles below. On t..e opposite side of the farm, 
 there is a good turnp ke-road, leading to Hudson, 
 &c. About 100 acres are cleared from wood, 
 and are in a good state of cultivadon ; remaining 
 £00 acres being wood land, are esteemed the 
 most valuable. There are about 20 acres of 
 meadow near the river. This land is very rich 
 and productive j and the whole of the est..te, 
 if .in many paris of Yorkshire, wou:d be thought 
 good and valuable land: inferior, I believe, is 
 sometimes sold for lOOl. per acre. 
 
 loth Months ZOth, This morning I walked to 
 the residence of H. M. jun. near his mill on 
 Claverick Creek. At this mill is a fall of about 
 30 feet, over one of the most rugged rocks I ever 
 saw. In England the strata of rocks commonly 
 lie horizontally, but here they are nearly perpen- 
 dicular, forming many rugged points and pin- 
 nacles, over which the water is thrown with no 
 little foam and noise. After dining, and spending 
 a few hours very pleasantly, we returned to Sun- 
 nyside in the evening. 
 
120 TRAVELS IX 
 
 10th Months 3:. 9?. I'his clay I came to Hudson 
 meeting, in compa- y wi.h as many of H. P*i.'s 
 fannily as could r.de in thtir couchee, a handsome 
 carriage drawn by two horses. Ater meeting I 
 dined at the house of a worthy elder. In conversa- 
 tion he gave me a little history of H. B. whose near 
 neiglihour and friend he had b.en for many years; 
 even ior some time before she appeared as a 
 minister. Her first appearances, he observ d, 
 were very acceptable, and in a good degree of 
 humili y. About that time he accompanied J. T. 
 on a visit to her, who expressed his belief that she 
 was rightly called, and encouraged her in the 
 exercise of her gift. This circumstance tended 
 to open her way more fully in the minds of friends^ 
 and her communic tions became more fr quent, 
 and were enlarge^'. Notwithstanding this, the 
 friend observed to me, that he very often had his 
 fears on her account, and sometimes imparted them 
 to her. About the time she applied for a certifi- 
 cate to visit England, he felt more forcibly her 
 danger, a id that it would l)e increased by her in- 
 troduction to the cities of Europe ; and it was 
 some time before he could determine to sign her 
 certificate ; but the fear of apj^earing singular, 
 outweighed his better feelings, and he accordii g y 
 signed it. Notwithstanding- the very fallacious 
 sentiments she had p»-opa!^aied, I felt charity 
 and good-will towards her ; and called to gee her 
 husband j she being from home. 
 
KORTH AMERICA. 121 
 
 tlth Month^ 1st. I spent this day pleasantly at 
 Sunnyside. In the morning I went out with my 
 cousin Charles into the woods, and caught an Amer- 
 ican hare in a hollow tree ; but we were obliged 
 to hew down the tree before we could come 
 at the prize. The A«ierican hare is not like 
 either the hare or the rabbit of England, but has 
 the appearance of a mixture of both. When the 
 poor creature was taken, it cried like an infant. 
 
 llth Months 2d, I remained at my relation's, 
 and, in the afternoon, accompanied my cousin 
 Samuel on the water, with a design of taking a 
 minx, but we were disappointed. 
 
 llth Month, 3d, I attended Hudson meeting, 
 and afterwards visited H. B.'s family from Eng- 
 land, in cotnpany with my relations. 
 
 llth Monthf 4th, I set out for Nine Partners 
 Quarterly Meeting, accompanied by Charles 
 Marriott and three of his sisters. We took our 
 provisions with us in the coachee, and found the 
 innkeepers very cheerfully spread a table, with a 
 cloch and knives and forks, being well satisfied 
 with the profit on the feed of our horses and the 
 little liquor we drank. This being the general 
 practice, ii makes travelling more easy as to ex- 
 pense ; for the whole the innkeeper had to receive 
 
 L 
 
522 TRAVELS IN 
 
 « 
 
 of US, being a company of 5 or 6, was not more 
 than half a crown at dinner. By retail, a glass of 
 brandy or rum and water, such ns is commonly 
 called for in England, is charged at the inns 3id. 
 Although the means of intoxication are more 
 easily attained than in England, yet I think, on 
 the whole, that all classes are more sober here 
 than in my native land. The frequent elections 
 have a strong tendency to promote intemperance ; 
 but as a seat in the legislature in this country, is 
 not, in its consequences, so lucrative as in England, 
 there is not the same inducement for corruption 
 and intemperance. This evening we reached 
 Jonathan Marriott's, and lodged there. 
 
 11th Mont/i, 5th, We continued our rout and 
 reached T. M.'s to dinner, where we spent the after- 
 noon, and lodged at night. This friend made re- 
 spectful mention of Tho. Colley, whose companion 
 he was for some time in his travels in this country. 
 During the Revolution, T. M. Miih some other 
 friends, was taken prisoner by the British, and 
 confined a long time on board a prison ship. 
 Whilst there, he employed himself in making a 
 variety of little articles in wood, some of which 
 he showed me. They were very neatly executed, 
 and bore testimony that they h id been made, 
 rather to pass on time than to earn wages. In 
 one of these memorials of his captivity, he had 
 
 I 
 
JJORTH AMERICA.' 12 
 
 r\ 
 
 a quantity of tea, which had been gathered in the 
 woods about his dwelling. It had much the ap- 
 pearance and flavour of common bohea tea. 
 
 ilth Month, 6th, I attended Nine Partners 
 ; Quarterly Meeting. At this meeting there were 
 three friends in the gallery, sitting near together, 
 whose ages united made about 300 years. After 
 meeting, we spent an hour or two in the school 
 for friends' children, where the teachers kindly 
 brought forward a few of their best readers, both 
 boys and girls, and gave us a specimen of their 
 abilities in that branch of learning. Some of them 
 read well, and did credit to the institution. 
 Amongst the teachers, I observed a young couple, 
 who had been married some time : the husband 
 was between 17 and 18 years old, and the wife a 
 little older, but not much. One consequence of 
 such early marriages is, that four or five genera- 
 tions are frequently seen living at the same time. 
 In the afternoon I visited T. R. and his wife, 
 in whose company we spent half an hour pleasant- 
 ly. After leaving them, we set out for Stamford 
 quarterly meeting, and lodged at A. S.'s. 
 
 11th Mo?:thy 7th. Came to P. U.'s, where I 
 lodged. Here I saw several articles very neatly 
 painted, and which appeared to me neater and 
 more lively than oil painting, and which, I was 
 
124 TRAVELS 1* (^ 
 
 informed, consisted of nothing but the colouring- 
 substance ground down with curds. Here I also 
 saw a quantity of sewing silk made in this coun- 
 try, and produced from silk worms raised in 
 Mansfield, in Connecticut; in which place upwards 
 of ten tons of silk had been p^roduced the laat year. 
 In the afternoon of this day we visited M. C. at 
 his farm, which is one of the neatest and best 
 conducted I have seen. There I saw a ram from 
 the Straights of Magellan, which had been presented 
 to him by his brother Captain H. who had brought 
 it from thence. The animal was of great strength, 
 and much larger than any English sheep. He had 
 two large horns standing upwards, somewhat like 
 those of a goat ; and two others growing ftom 
 near the roots of the former, twisted like those of 
 other sheep. His colour was black, and his wool 
 of a coarse quality. Afterwards we visited Captiiin 
 S. C. at his farm, which is, I believe, a very good 
 one; and it has an excellent house and good accom- 
 modation, and is very pleasantly situated. On our 
 way this friend met and passed us, with a waggon 
 load of slaughtered hogs for the next country store ; 
 hut he soon returned, and we supped and spent a few 
 hours very pleasantly with him and his wife. As 
 Captain C. was the commander of the Fortitude, 
 in which I came over to America the first time, 
 in company with Thomas Scattergood, this visit I 
 afforded a pleasing opportunity of talking over a 
 
NORTH AMERlbA* 125 
 
 Variety of circumstances that occurred during our 
 voyage. 
 
 llt'i Months 8th* I attended Stamford quar- 
 terly meeting. From my observations here and in 
 other meetings, in New-York State in particular, 
 I thought some friends, active in the discipline, suf- 
 fered loss, by placing too high a stamp on a 
 coarse homely appearance in dress and furniture, 
 without sufficiently coming under that ameliorating 
 influence which draws out of any reliance on par- 
 ticular forms of dress and furniture. Truth and 
 sound sense lead into neatness, decency, and mode- 
 ration in these respects ; but extremes do harm. By 
 keeping the eye and attention constantly fixed too 
 much on outward things, the better part is in some 
 danger of being neglected. In the evening we 
 returned to J. M.'s, where we lodged that night j 
 and the next morning set out for Suiinyside, 
 where we arrived safe in the evening. 
 
 Wth Months tOth. I attended Hudson meeting. 
 Afterwards dined and spent a few hours w.th T. C. 
 a valuable public friend ; and, in the evening, re- 
 turned to my relations. The three following days 
 were spent pleasantly in their family. A. part of 
 the time was occupied in taking two diawings of 
 the house, &c. &c. intended as a present for my 
 cousin's sister in England, whxh will give her 
 
 friends there some idea of American scenery. 
 
 L2 
 
326 TRAVELS IN 
 
 lith Months 14th. I attended Hudson meeting,' 
 and afterwards dined and spent a little time with | 
 Captain R. B. in his family. In the afternoon, ac- 
 companied by several of H. M.*s family, and E. C. 
 I went across the North River to Athens. After 
 spending about an hour there, I took leave of these , 
 agreeable young friends, and went on board the I 
 sloop, called the First Counsellor, for Albany. The 
 time I spent at my cousin M.'s, was pleasanter 
 to me than any I have passed in this land ; and his 
 house was the most like home. 
 
 11th 3Ionth^ 15th. I slept last night onboard 
 the packet ; and this day arrived safe at Albany, 
 after a pleasant sail up Hudson River, on the 
 banks of which are many beautiful prospects. 
 Albany has more the appearance of an English 
 town, than any I have seen in America. Some 
 of the streets are narrow and irregular, and 
 many of the houses are old. On c.pproaching the 
 city, in sailing up the river, the roofs of many of : 
 the buildings, from being covered v/ith tin plates 
 instead of slate, exhibit a very singular and glit- 
 tering appearance in the sun. I lodged this night 
 at the coffee -house in Albany. 
 
 11th Months 16th, This day I rode up to Troy, 
 on B. S.'e horse, which he was so kind as to fur- 
 nish me with, to Whites Town, near Uiica. Troy 
 is a beautiful city, and improving rapidly. It is 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 127 
 
 already of considerable extent, although, like 
 Hudson, of but few years standing. Divers of 
 the steeples and towers of their public buildings, 
 being covered with tin plates, as at Albany, gives 
 the place a very splendid appearance. I lodged 
 this night at Troy, having had the company of a 
 friend from New- York, in the evening. 
 
 lUh Months 17th. I attended the meeting at 
 Troy in company with the before-mentioned friend. 
 Here is a very neat meeting-house, kept clean and 
 in good repair. There is something not quite right, 
 or at least something that produces very unpleasant 
 feelings and reflections, in suffering meeting-houses 
 to-become dirty and out of repair. We sometimes 
 judge of the estimation in which people hold their 
 guests by the room assigned for their reception and 
 entertainment. What those people think who 
 siuTer their places for worship to remain a scene of 
 dirt and ruin, whilst perhaps their own habitations 
 are superfluously elegant, I cannot comprehend ; 
 I fear it bespeaks their having no very high idea of 
 the Divine Majesty, to whose service they profess 
 to appropriate such buildings. This meeting-huuse 
 at Troy, 1 was informed, was built chiefly by two 
 female friends, whose husbands had some time 
 before been disowned for dealirg in spirituous 
 liquors ; this traffic being contrary to the rules of 
 friends in New- York bt:te. Those persons not 
 seeing the propriety of the rule, or not choosing to 
 
123 TRAVELS IK 
 
 forego the profits of this branch of their trade, 
 had suffered themselves to be disunited. At 
 the same time they declared that aUhough 
 friends disowned them, they would not disown 
 their friends. Since their separation they have 
 attended friends meetings for worship ; and, 
 being people of property, they have, on all occa- 
 sions, encouraged their wives to be generous in 
 their contributions towards the necessary expences 
 of the society. I was told that in this instance 
 their two wives had furnished the means of defray- 
 ing nearly the whole expvnse of building this 
 handsome meeting-house. In the afternoon I 
 parted with J. B. and set out for Schenectady on 
 the Mohawk River. I arrived there early in 
 the evening where I lodged. This day I sent 
 letters to my dear wife by J. B. to be forwarded 
 from New-York. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 129 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Genesee Country — Utica — Brothertown— ^Indian Tale^-^ 
 The Orchard— ^Indian Inn— •shakes Skaneatedes^ Owas- 
 cOy SenecUy and Canandarque — ^n Atheiat — Holland 
 Land Comfiamj — Prairies. 
 
 18th of nth Month., 1805. I crossed the Mo- 
 hawk river, and travelled about 30 miles on the 
 Genesee Turnpike. Having company I stopped 
 with him at an inn, where we lodged. This inn 
 does no credit to the country. 
 
 lUh 3'Ionth^ 19M. I was joined by an agree- 
 able young man from Hudson, of the name of 
 Osborne, who is in the practice of the law. He 
 had also in company with him a respectable trades- 
 man from Balls-town Springs ; so we travelled along 
 pleasantly through the romantic valley of the Mo- 
 hawk, and, in our journey, sav/ a few straggling 
 Indians climbing up the mountains. In the even- 
 ing we came to the smaller falls of that river, 
 where the navigation is aided by a number of well 
 constructed locks. The fall is about 70 feet. 
 Here is a pretty little town having some good inns, 
 and standing in a most beautiful and romantic situa- 
 tion, somewhat resembling Matlock ; but the 
 scenery is more rugged and stupendous. 
 
 Here we lodged ; and the next morning, the 20th 
 9f 11th Month, we set out, along the German 
 
130 TRAVELS in" 
 
 Flats, to Kerseymere, where we breakfasted at 
 a x'ery good inn, although about 200 miles inland. 
 In travelling this road, we sometimes observe ves- 
 tiges of the devast.ition formerly made, through 
 the instigations of the English or French Govern- 
 ments, by the Indians, as they were prevailed upon, 
 sometimes by one power and sometimes by the 
 other, to join in their wars and quarrels. Kow 
 degrading that men, placed in authority, and pro- 
 fessing to be the followers of Christ, should be 
 thus employed in working upon the simplicity of 
 the poor Indians ! In the afternoon we came to 
 Utica,an improving place, of considerable business, 
 a little distance from Fort Schuyler. In the even- 
 ing I came to B. S.'s, where I lodged and left the 
 horse which his son so kindly lent me at Albany ; 
 having replaced him with one I bought at Fort 
 Schuvler. 
 
 11th Month 21st. This day I passed through 
 Clinton, where I dined ; and, in thv! evening came 
 to an Indian village, called Brothertown. Here I 
 was comfortably accommodated at the house of 
 an Indian, whose name was Obadiah Scipio. His 
 wife Elizabeth, is the daughter of an In iian Chief 
 of the name of Fowler. She was a personable 
 woman and of an expressive countenance, and 
 was very industrious. Her dairy produced ex- 
 cellent cheese ar,d butt, notwithstanding a 
 great part of her time was employed in spin- 
 
NORTH America; 131 
 
 ning for the fami'y apparel, which was very- 
 decent, it was mostly prepared lor the weaver 
 by her own household ; and, whilst I was in the 
 house, a female weaver of .he viilnp^e, brought in 
 a piece of cloth made irom yarn spun in this 
 family, which wa's such as would have done cre- 
 dit to any female in England. This reputable 
 Indian couple had four fine healthy children, who 
 sat by the fire ; and, though of a copper colour, 
 their countenances were far from unpleasing. 
 Their names were Denis, Calvin, Cinthia, and 
 Celinda. 
 
 The schoolmaster of this Indian village, who 
 is paid by friends, introduced me to a chief of 
 the name of Hendricks, with whom I had some 
 conversation ; and we sat about an hour bv the 
 fire-side of a pretty large family of Indians, where 
 it was pleasant to see the spinning-wheel go 
 briskly round. There were 16 or 18 Indians 
 round the fire ; the older part of the family sat 
 on a bench in front, and the little Indians on the 
 ground on each side. The fire was made at the 
 end of the building, and the smoke found its way 
 through the roof, without the aid of a chimney. 
 The walls and roof were hung with ears of Indian 
 corn, and other winter provisions. It is difficult 
 to describe my feelings, on sitting down with an 
 Indian family in this way. In a sympathising 
 
132 TRAVELS IN 
 
 mind, sensations of pity and compassion will pre- 
 dominate. On the other hand, it is not un'ikely 
 that a si miliar feeling may prevail in the breasts of 
 these children of the forest, towards those who 
 may consider themselves as raised far above them 
 in education and civilized life. It is remarkable 
 that an Indian boy or girl is rarely found willing 
 to change native habits, for those of towns and 
 cities ; but there are many instances, I am told, of 
 those who are called civilized people, assimilar.ing 
 their manners with the Indian's ; and of giving their 
 mode of life the preference. Man, as man, is a 
 strange and incomprehensible being Avhen left to 
 himself ; whether in what is called a savage or a 
 civilized state. In either, when so left, he stands 
 equally a ready instrument, in the hand of the 
 common enemy of the peace and happiness o^ the 
 world. 
 
 I spent the remainder of this evening by Scipio's 
 fire-side, and was accommodated with a good bed 
 at night, on which I slept comfortably. Both the 
 sides and ceiling of that part of the building in 
 which I lodged, were covered with ears of Indian 
 corn in the husk ; which, to me, hud a novel but 
 not an unpleasant appearance. 
 
 lUh Months 22d. I visited the Indian school- 
 master and his school, and was presented with a 
 few specimens of writing. Here I met with a 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 133 
 
 little poem on an Indian boy, who was sent to 
 Hartford college for his education, which I thought 
 worth copying, it being founded on facts. It is as 
 follows :— 
 
 From Susquehanna's farthest springs. 
 Where savage tribes pursue their game^, 
 
 Ilis blanket ty'd with yellow strings. 
 An Indian of the forest came. 
 
 From council grave the fathers rose. 
 Viewing the hopeful youth with joy ; 
 
 To Ha'rtford's Hall, o'er wastes of snows, 
 They sent their tawny-coloured boy. 
 
 Awhile he wrote, awliik he read. 
 Awhile he learnt the grammar rules ; 
 
 An Indian savage, so well bred. 
 
 Much credit promis'd to the schools. 
 
 Some said in laAV he would excel ; 
 
 And some in physic thought he'd shine j 
 Others, who knew him passing well. 
 
 Hop d he might prove a sage divine : 
 
 But those of more discerning eye, 
 Could then far other prospects show. 
 
 As oft he threw his Virgil by. 
 To wander with his dearer bow. 
 
 The tedious hours of study spent. 
 The drowsy lecture haply done. 
 
 He to the woods a hunting went ; 
 But sigh'd to see the setting sun. 
 
 M 
 
134 TRAVELS IN 
 
 The shady bank, tlie murm'ring' stream, 
 The -w^oody wilds, his heart possess'd ^ 
 
 The dewy lawn, his morning dream. 
 In fancy's gayest colours dress'd. 
 
 " And why," he cry'd " did T forsake 
 " My native woods, for gloomy walls ; 
 
 *' The silver stream, the limpid l;ike ; 
 ** For these dull books and college halls? 
 
 •* A little could my wants supply ; 
 
 " Can wealth or honour give me more ? 
 ** Or will my father's God deny 
 " The humble treat he gave before ? 
 
 " Where Nature's ancient forests grow, 
 •* The flowering laurel never fades ; 
 
 •* There is my heart ; and I must go, 
 ** And die amidst my native shades."-' 
 
 He spoke, and to the western springs, 
 Stripp'd of his gown, his way he bent ; 
 
 His blanket tied with yellovv strings. 
 This native of the forest went. 
 
 Returning to his native plain. 
 
 The Indians welcom'd him with joy ; 
 
 The Council took him home again, 
 And bless'd their tawny -colour'd boy. 
 
 From the Indian village of Brother Town, I 
 came to another settlement of theirs, called the 
 Orchard. Many of their habitations are formed 
 principally of the bark of trees, attached to posts, 
 which are fixed in the ground j the roofs being 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 135 
 
 also of bark j but as it is taken off the trees in 
 broad pieces, they contrive to make a pretty warm 
 dwelling, A few chiefs, and others, have good 
 houses of wood, well furnished; and some of the 
 Indians, being very good workmen, and having 
 complete sets of tools, I have seen houses of their 
 building superior to many in England. 
 
 As the whole of this day's journey lay amongst 
 the Indians, whose habitations are pretty numerous 
 in this quarter, I had a fair opportunity of forming 
 some judgment of the progress they have made in 
 the useful arts of civiliztrd life ; and I confess it is 
 my opinion, that many in these villages, are further 
 advanced in this respect, and enjoy more of the 
 comforts of life, than many of the inhabitants of 
 the remote parts of Great Britain and Ireland. 
 
 In passing by one of their habitations, I noticed 
 the Indian manner of preparing deer skins for use. 
 After taking off the hair, they sew up the skin 
 like a bag ; and one end being suspended by a 
 support, the lower end is brought close over a 
 vessel, containing a small fire, of green wood 
 at the bottom. The carbonic acid ascend* 
 ing with the smoke, so impregnates the skin, 
 that it becomes a durable and elastic leathery 
 very suitable for their shoes, or moccasons, and 
 other useful purposes. This operation was going 
 forward under the piazza of a very good frame- 
 
13^ TRAVELS IK 
 
 house; and,- from the appearance of the inhabi- 
 tants, I suppose the master was a chief of the first 
 order. Upon his head he had a very grotesque 
 kind of cap, much resembling a lofty antique hel- 
 met. His daughter, who appeared to be a girl 
 about 13 years old, had a very pleasing Indian 
 countenance ; and her arms were ornamented with 
 silver bracelets of considerable breadth, both above 
 and below the elbow. Though her dress was en- 
 tirely in the Indian fashion, with moccasons, leg- 
 gins, blanket, &c. j yet, being neat, clean, and of 
 finer materials than usual, she had not an inelegant 
 appearance. These people understood a little 
 English ; but, at several of their habitations, where 
 I called in the course of the day, they either could 
 not or would not understand what I said. Some 
 of the younger boys and girls laughed immo- 
 derately, on my inquiring of them the road ; but 
 without being able, seemingly, to give me any 
 other answer. As I went along, I met with two 
 clever-looking Indian young men, carpenters, hav- 
 ing their tools with them. And under the piazza 
 of a commodious Indian dwelling, I saw, hung up 
 in neat order, the harness and yokes of horses and 
 oxen. There was also a good farm yard surround* 
 cd with barns and stables, the whole having every 
 appearance of good management. 
 
 In the evening I joined my old companion again 
 on the Genesee road j having parted with him in 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 137 
 
 going to B. S.*s. This night we took up our lodg- 
 ings at a very good inn, kept by a Doctor Stockden. 
 Ahhough in the midst of the Oneida Indians, and 
 300 or 400 miles inland from Philadelphia or New- 
 York, the room in which I slept was elegantly fur- 
 nished. It had an excellent bed, &c, the floor was 
 spread with good carpet, and the curtains of the 
 windows and of the bed were of smart Man- 
 chester print. I observed several stout Indian 
 men sitting in the bar room ; but they were not 
 suffered to get intoxicated, which I thought was 
 greatly to the Doctor's credit, as many of the ta- 
 vern keepers supply them to excess. 
 
 lUh Months 22d* We set out early and came 
 to a large good inn, belonging to an Oneida Indian, 
 who has assumed the name of John Denny. This 
 is a large brick house, having four good rooms, 
 and a spacious passage and staircase on the ground 
 floor. I'he rooms were not less than 18 feet by 
 20 feet, lofty and well finished. He had an offer 
 of 821. 2s. 6d. a year rent for it, or one dollar 
 per day, which he had accepted. This house 
 of Denny's, and that belonging to Stockden, 
 were built by Indian workmen, and do theni great 
 credit. Denny has two daughters, one of whom 
 was lately married to a German, a respectable 
 farmer j and her father, according to a promise 
 he made, gave him one bushel of dollars as her 
 portion ; and, I was told, he sometimes says, that 
 
 M2 
 
138 travp:ls in 
 
 if his other daughter marries a prudent respectable 
 young man, he will give her two bushels of dollars 
 for her portion. 
 
 The Genesee turnpike road passes through a 
 large tract of land belonging to this Indian ; and 
 has so much raised the value of it, that he has 
 sold some small lots near the road, as high as 61. 
 sterling per acre, which is a great price in such a 
 remote situation. 
 
 A5 I sat in John Denny's house, I was told by. 
 an intelligent person of the family, that build- 
 ing so good a house, and making such improve- 
 ments had nearly cost him his life, by raising the 
 envy and indignation of the neighbouring chiefs. 
 Under the influence of these unworthy passions, 
 they had called him before one of their council 
 Bres, and informed him that they had taken his 
 proceedings into consideration, and were deter- 
 mined that he should leave the improvements he 
 had made, and remove into some other part of the 
 country ; that they had observed he was become 
 proud, like the white people ; that the house he 
 had built was very unbecoming an Indian ; and 
 that he must quit it without further delay. In 
 reply, he told them that he was ready to comply 
 with the orders of the chiefs of his nation, provided 
 they would make him satisfaction for the great * 
 expense he had been at ; but not otherwise. The | 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 139. 
 
 V 
 
 council broke up ■without any thing further being 
 done at that time. 
 
 Shortly after another council was held by the 
 chiefs ; and a messenger was sent to the house 
 requiring his attendance ; but, fearing some vio- 
 lence was intended, he refused to comply. This 
 refusal so irritated the chiefs so far that they imme- 
 diately sent out four warriors, with orders to put 
 him to death ; but, observing them as they ap- 
 proached the house, he put himself in a posture 
 of defence ; and, being joined by his brother andr 
 two white persons who happened to be in the 
 house, they were able to make such a defence, 
 that, after a sharp contest, in which both sides 
 suffered severely, the warriors were compelled to 
 fly, covered with blood, being grievously wounded. 
 Thus circumstanced, he applied for protection to 
 the government of the United States ,• and abjuring 
 his allegiance to the Oneida nation, and taking the 
 oaths of allegiance to the United States, he became 
 a citizen thereof. In consequence of this conduct, 
 an officer of the United States duly apprised the 
 Oneida chiefs that John Denny was now become a 
 citizen thereof, and of course was under the protec- 
 tion of that government ; and that the government 
 was determined to protect him. The officer also 
 stated, that if the Oneida nation committed any fur- 
 ther outrage against Denny, it would be considered 
 as a breach of the treaty of peace and amity then 
 
149 TRAVEIrfi I^' 
 
 subsisting between them, and they might take the 
 consequences, which would fall very heavily upon 
 them. Since this period, he has not been dis- 
 turbed by the Indians; but is going quietly for- 
 ward with the improvement of his lands, which 
 are rising rapidly in value. 
 
 My companion, who had come with me from 
 near Skenectady, having some busiHCss with John 
 Denny, the Indian, respecting a mill seat which 
 he wished to purchase, I left him, and pursued 
 my way on the Genesee road. In the evening I 
 reached Moss's tavern, in company with an agree- 
 able person, whom I met with soon after leaving 
 John Denny's house. In travelling along this day 
 I saw some wild deer cross the road. They ap- 
 peared more light and active than those in the 
 parks of England ; and, in bounding along, seemed 
 almost as light as air, being at that time pursued 
 by a hunter's dog. Here they are hunted for food, 
 and not for sport, as in England. 
 
 11th 3Ionth^ 24th, I travelled along the Genesee 
 turnpike, and passed many fine tracts of land, 
 covered with beech, the sugar maple, &c. &c. 
 Much of the land in these parts, i believe, could 
 scarcely be sold for 10s. per acre, to be paid for 
 in cash ; and yet, in the neighbourhood of many- 
 principal towns in Great Britain, would be 
 thought cheap at lOOl. per acre. From the n^any 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 141 
 
 local advantages of soil, climate, &c. I think it is 
 very prob;sble that the long-extended line of the 
 Genesee turnpike-road, may, in a few y^ars, be as 
 [thickly inhabited as some parts of Europe are at 
 this time. In the afternoon I refreshed mvself 
 and horse at a comfortable inn on the outlet of 
 the Lake Schaneatetes, which forms a sort of mill- 
 dam, covering a space of about 3 miles by 15. 
 It was pleasant to observe, on this outlet, a num- 
 ber of mills, sufficient to do the work of some 
 thousands of Virginia slaves. It is greatly to be 
 lamented that the absurd policy of the Southern 
 States, has placed these poor creatures as a barrier 
 against every improvement in mechanics, &c. 
 Vice as well as virtue brings its own reward , but 
 the sufferings of those poor objects, on whom this 
 false policy of the vicious exerts its baneful in* 
 fluence, are much to be lamented ; and a truly 
 feeling mind will deeply sympathize with the un- 
 happy sufferers, thus deprived of every outward 
 consolation that can make an existence in the 
 world desirable. 
 
 Some of the mills were employed in the manu- 
 factory of cloths. On the banks of this lake are 
 many delightful situations, which would be highly 
 valued in a country like England. On every side 
 they descend with a bold slope, and are generally 
 covered with fine timber, excepting here and there 
 an insulated plantation, where the [ground is 
 
142 TRAVELS IN 
 
 cleared. These cultivated farms add greatly to 
 the beauty and variety of the scenery. After 
 taking some refreshment at an inn in the viUage, 
 which is close by the lake, I again mounted my 
 horse, and, in the evening, came to an improving 
 town, and took up my quarters at Boswick's 
 Tavern. 
 
 11th Months 25th, After passing by the Lake 
 Ovvasco, I arrived at Cayuga, where I breakfast* 
 ed at a very good inn. Cayuga is situated at the 
 outlet of the lake of that name, where there is a 
 bridge over the lake 1700 yards in extent, which 
 I passed after paying 13^d. toll. I was informed 
 that on the setting in of the frost, the preceding 
 winter, more than 1500 sledges, loaded with pro- 
 duce, passed this bridge in one day. This lake is 
 nearly 40 miles in length, and about 4 in breadth, 
 and opens an extensive communication with New- 
 York, by joining the Mohawk and North Rivers, 
 with the exception of a short portage or carrying- 
 place, where the vessels cannot pass. 
 
 In the evening I came to Ge^ieva, a handsome 
 town, situated on a high groimd on the banks of 
 Lake Seneca. This lake also extends about 40 
 miles in length, and generally from 3 to 5 miles 
 in breadth ; and is navigated by sloops. On in- 
 quiry I found that land sells here from 13s. 6d. to 
 27s* per acre, though of very good quality. There 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 14^ 
 
 feeing a bold shore all along this lake, there are, 
 as may well be conceived, many beautiful situa- 
 tions on its banks. 
 
 This night I lodged at Powel's Tavern, in 
 Geneva, which is, in every respect, a most excel- 
 lent inn, and capable of accommodating a large 
 number of guests. At this inn, I met with an 
 agreeable and entertaining young man, with whom 
 I spent the evening. 
 
 llth Months 26f/i, This day I passed the out- 
 let of Lake Canandarque, and the town of that 
 name. The lake is nearly equal in magnitude to 
 Lake Seneca, and the town extends to its borders. 
 These lakes abound with a variety of fresh water 
 fish, particularly salmon and salmon-trout ; and, 
 what is a little extraordinary, the latter are much 
 larger than the former, frequently weighing from 
 70 to 80lbs. each. 
 
 In the evening I came to General Hall's Tavern, 
 where I was well entertained by him and his 
 family. The General, though an innkeeper, 
 stands very high in the estimation of his country- 
 men. In the Revolution, though very young, he 
 was a Sergeant ; and, having little or no property, 
 he has been raised to the rank of a General on 
 account of his good conduct, and he is now ac^ 
 quiring wealth. 
 
144 TRAVELS IN 
 
 iltk Month. 27th, After leaving General 
 Hall's, I crossed the Genesee River, and soon 
 came to an Indian village, where I called at one 
 or two dwellings, wishing to have some conversa- 
 tion with the inh ibitants ; but we were unable to 
 make each other understand. 
 
 Before crossing the river, I passed through 
 Hartford, where are several good inns. 
 
 In the course of the day I met with many 
 Indians ; and after dining at Ganier's Tavern, I 
 came to Beamus's Tavern, where I lodged. I'he 
 last 5 or 6 miles of my way lay in a line through 
 the thick forest; the roads, in many parts v/here 
 the ground is soft, being formed of the straight 
 trunks of trees, laid close to each other across the 
 road, and then covered with earth or gravel; but 
 in some parts the latter is neglected, and the path 
 lies over the bare timber. 
 
 At the last-mentioned inn I met with what I had 
 often heard of, but seldom, if ever seen, a professed 
 atheist, who openly advocated his opinions. To 
 all appearance he was sober; yet his arguments 
 were extremely weak ; indeed the poor man seemed 
 to be labouring under great mental darkness. 
 Although this was a season of the year in which 
 thunder and lightning are not common; yet, it 
 was very remarkable, that during the time the 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 145 
 
 atheist was delivering his opinions, the thunder 
 rolled over our heads in an awful manner, accom- 
 panied with vivid flashes of lightning ; and, as we 
 were surrounded with an almost boundless forest, 
 a most solemn effect was produced. This, how- 
 ever, he seemed not to regard. I was not disposed 
 to think uncharitably of any one, on account of his 
 opinions respecting religion ; yet I confess I was not 
 a little perplextd, in my endeavours to make out 
 what could be this man's modves, for propagating 
 his cold and comfortless doctrines; and was not able 
 to d( vise any common ground of action, unless it 
 were a desire to gain celebrity, even through ab- 
 surdity. 1 am aware th t it is not in any man's 
 power to command his religious opinions ; yet a 
 great deal depends on our cultivaiing, or reject- 
 ing such as offer themselves to our notice,. In 
 considering the character of this poor atheist, 
 who I am told, is a man of good moral con- 
 duct, I am ready to think that some have suf- 
 fered loss, under the apprehension that it is of 
 little consequence what our religious ..pinions are, 
 provided a good moral conduct is observed ; as if 
 religion and morality were the saine thing.' But, 
 alas I notwithstandmg a truly reUgious character 
 will ver be foun 1 a character of clean moral con- 
 duct ; yv t, as in the case of this deluded individual, 
 some moral characters may be found, who can 
 
 even deny the God who made them, and thus shut 
 
 N 
 
 
146 TRAVELS IN 
 
 up the fountain of every mental consolation ; yea, 
 even of hope itself. 
 
 The Indian town I passed through is called 
 Cannawagas. 
 
 11th 3fonthy 28th. This day I passed through 
 Bataviaj and, near this place, met an Indian with 
 his dog, driving a flock of sheep before him of 
 about 30 or 40 in number. In the course of the 
 day I met several hunting parties of Indians, and 
 came to Vendeventer's Tavern in the evening; 
 which I spent with one of the Holland Company's 
 Surveyors. He and his companions had been oc- 
 cupied in the woods, more than three months, 
 and had not in all that time, slept in a house or 
 on a bed. He was a youvig man of stability, very 
 agreeable, and well informed. The tract of land 
 they were surveying, was purchased by some per- 
 sons in Holland, and is therefore called the 
 Holland-land-Purchase. It consists of 3,500,000 
 acres, for which they paid at the rate of l^d. per 
 acre. The principal proprietor is Schimmelpennick. 
 ''fhis land they are now selling from 9s. to 27s. per 
 acre, but purchasers may be accommodated with 
 the money remaining at interest, provided they 
 settle upon the purchase, and improve the land. 
 By their books of surveys, I observed that they 
 meted out the tract into divisions and ranges, which 
 are numbered j a squ?u:e gf about 10 miles making 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 147 
 
 a township ; and these townships being subdivided 
 into lots for farms. The maps describe every 
 stream and mountain, the quality of the land in 
 each division, and the timber upon it, in a very 
 neat and accurate style. This surveyor, by living 
 so much in the woods, had acquired a good deal 
 of the Indian air in his dress, wearing leggins and 
 moccasons, as is the manner of the Indians, with 
 whose company he was sometimes obliged to be 
 contented. 
 
 11th Months 29th. This day I passed over a 
 large extent of country, of a very unusual appear- 
 ance in America. It consisted of what are called 
 prairies, or pastures. These are large tracts of 
 land, some miles over, where the trees have all 
 been levelled with the ground, by some violent 
 wind or hurricane ; and which the Indians, by oc- 
 casionally setting fire to the dry grass, &c. have 
 kept clear for the g,reater conveniency of hunting ; 
 and also for planting and grazing. The large trees 
 thus blown down, drag up with their roots consi- 
 derable quantities of earth, which, as the tree de- 
 cays away leave a little mound, with a cavity on 
 that side of it where the earth was torn up. This 
 rugged appearance of the earth through the whole 
 extent of these prairies, is a convincing proof of 
 the manner in which the ground has been cleared. 
 
148 TRAVELS IN 
 
 In riding along these pastures, I met several 
 parties of Indians, who, from the quantity of their 
 baggage, seemed to be pretty wealthy, having 
 several loaded horses. Thus far I have not met 
 with the least rudeness or improper behaviour 
 from these people ; though I have several times 
 passed individuals, as well as large companies of 
 them, when I have been without a companion, 
 and might have been an easy prey. 
 
KORTH AMERICA. 149 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Buffalo Towri'-^Fenning's Tavern — Falls of Niagara^-^ 
 Black Creek — Fort Frie—-'Batavia-~'^Vandeve7itej'*9 
 Jnn<-^Ganser*s Tavern — Lake Seneca. Tioga Point--' 
 Fldridge^s Tavern — Elkland's—Muncy — Catawessy---' 
 Roaring Creek — Maiden Creek — Bethlehem-"- Ply' 
 mouth— Merion. 
 
 29th, 11th Months 1805. In riding along yes- 
 terday, a few n>iles from Buffalo Creek, I thought 
 I could very distinctly hear the noise of the Falls 
 of Niagara, although then about 24 miles from 
 that stupendous cataract. Th-R distance at which 
 the people in these parts say the Falls may be 
 heard, when the wind and other concurring cir- 
 cumstances are favourable, is almost incredible. I 
 met with a reputable looking farmer, driving a team 
 of iour fine oxen upon the road, who told me, 
 with all the gravity of a man speaking the truths 
 that he sometimes heard them very plainly at his 
 residence, 40 miles distant from them ; whea 
 the wind was favourable, or the air calm and 
 serene. Last night I came to Crow's tavern in 
 Buffalo Town, on Buffalo Creek, just upon its 
 outlet into Lake Erie. Crow, the ''keeper of this 
 inn, told me that in cold weather, or when the wind 
 suited, the noise of the Falls was generally heard 
 in Buffalo ; which is a distance of 20 miles from 
 them. In this place is commonly a number of 
 Indians, many of them being setded in the neigh- 
 bourhood, some of whom are accounted clever 
 
 N 2 
 
150 TRAVELS IN 
 
 farmers. I saw one of these, of the name of 
 Little Billy, a chief, accompanied by his squaw, 
 going into a merchant's warehouse, with whom they 
 did business ; and I was told, that this Indian rais- 
 ed more horses and horned cattle than any other 
 farmer in the neighbourhood ; and had, by this bu- 
 siness, acquired considerable property. 
 
 nth Months SOth, After breakfasting at Buf- 
 falo Town, I crossed the Rapids, about three miles 
 below Lake Erie. These Rapids are a very con- 
 siderable River, being at this place nearly one 
 mile over, and conveying a vast body of water, 
 which passes in its course from Lake Erie 
 to Lake Ontario. I observed, as I rode along, 
 a number of large fishes that were thrown on 
 shore ; and saw many ravens hovering about and 
 devouring them. In travelling upon the banks of 
 the Rapids, for many miles, the roaring of the 
 Falls is heard resembling distant thunder. Being 
 in Upper Canada, which is under our ov/n govern- 
 ment, it felt to me something like being in Eng- 
 land, and occasioned a pleasing sensation. Here 
 I observed a number of good farm-houses ; the 
 pastures and the wheat looked remarkably fresh 
 and green, and a large fine herd of cattle were 
 grazing in the fields. In conversing I found that 
 many of the inhabitants are of German or French 
 descent. In the afternoon I came to Fenning's 
 Tavern at Chippaway, a town on the Cteek of that 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 151 
 
 name. Here is a block-house fortification, at which 
 an Fnglish garrison is stationed. From the windows 
 of this tavern, clouds of mist are seen rising from 
 the Falls ; and the noise of them is so loud, that a 
 person seems to be close upon them, although they 
 are nearly three miles distant. I was informed by 
 several of Fenning's family, that the concussion 
 occasioned by the descent of so large a body of 
 water, is such, that in a still summer's evening, a 
 constant tremor of the earth is perceptible ; and 
 the loose glass in the windows is so shaken as to 
 produce considerable noise. 
 
 12th Months isL I lodged last night at Fen- 
 ning's Tavern, where i had as good accommoda- 
 tion as could be desired, in this family I met 
 with a young man, who had his education in our 
 society, and is a commissioner or surveyor under 
 the English government, for the disposal of lands 
 to new settlers. This young man kindly offered 
 me his company and assistance, in visiting the 
 curiosities in this neighbourhood. However it be- 
 ing first day, and there being no meeting near, I 
 preferred speeding the forenoon alone. There- 
 fore, immediately after breakfast, I walked down 
 to the Falls by myself ; the tremendous noise, with 
 the volumes of spray and mist arising from them, 
 being a sufficient guide to the spot. The first 
 view of this wonderful cataract, is from the prin- 
 cipal road, which, though not the most complete. 
 
152 TRAVELS lie 
 
 is perhaps as beautiful as any ; but being from a 
 situation which is level v/ith the river above the 
 Falls, a considerable part of the cataract is hid from 
 the eye. After taking a circuit of about a mile, 
 the path leads down a steep precipice, which is 
 descended with considerable difficulty, and not 
 without the aid of a long ladder, placed there by 
 a neighbouring planter, as well for his own con- 
 veniency, as for that of strangers. Immediately 
 below the cataract, the river is confined between 
 two steep rocks that form a deep winding valley, 
 through which the waters flow in their course to- 
 wards Lake Ontario. This valley is terminated 
 by a perpendicular rock of 53 yards in height, 
 which runs across, forming an angle pointing up 
 the river, over which this vast body of water pre- 
 cipitates itself with astonishing rapidity, and with 
 a noise so tremendous that it can scarcely be de- 
 scribed. On the top of the rock is a small island, 
 which divides the cataract into two parts, and in 
 such a manner that the greater part of the water 
 pours over the rocks at the extreme head of the 
 valley, and the rest on one side of it. A little 
 above, opposite Chippaway, the river is two miles 
 over ; but directly above the Falls it narrows to 
 about a mile in breadth. I was informed by 
 Joseph Ellicot and his brother, at whose house I 
 lodged, that they had twice measured the falls, and 
 found them to be 158 feet in hei^';ht, and about 
 1800 ysyrds in width from the opposite edges of 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 15S 
 
 the river^. I was told by the ftrryman, that about 
 16 miles above the Falls, the river was nearly one 
 mile in width, and that, in the middle, it was 40 
 feet in depth ; and, in common, the stream raif 
 at the rate of six miles in the hour. If this is 
 really the case, and I have no cause to doubt it, 
 the quantity of water passing over the Falls, and 
 continually suspended between the top and bottom, 
 may be more than 400,000 tons. If the additional 
 weight and v 4ocity, gained by a fall of 158 feet, 
 be added, the weight of these prodigious columns 
 of water would exceed three millions of tons» 
 Such an enormous specific gravity failing at once 
 into the gulph below, may bring the accounts of 
 the Falls being heard, under favourable circum- 
 stances, at the distance of 40 or 50 miles, within the 
 limits of credibility.t 
 
 ►■■II I ■ " III — ...li^ai I -I M 
 
 • Note. This includes both Falls and the intersecting island, 
 which is about 459 yards over. 
 
 \ Note. Arrowsmith in his map of the United States, 
 says, "this column of water is supposed to descend into 
 the chasm about 65 feet.'* He also observes, " It is said by 
 those who have visited this stupendous cataract, that the 
 descent into the chasm is very difficult, because of ihc great 
 height of the banks. A person having descended, however, 
 Btiay go to the bottom of the Falls, and take shelter behind the 
 torrent, between the falling water and the precipice ; where 
 there is a space sufficient lo contain a number of persons, in per- 
 fect safety ; and where conversation may be held wihout inter- 
 ruption from the noise j wlilch is less than at a considerable 
 distance."— -Editor, 
 
154 TRAVELS Iia 
 
 Having reached the bottom of the precipice, 
 and approached as near to the cataract, as I could, 
 with apparent safety, I sat down, and spent about 
 two hours in contemplating this astonishing natural 
 curiosity, which is said to be the greatest cataract 
 in the world. The tremendous roar arising from 
 the Falls, added to the awful sublimity of the 
 spectacle of such an uncommon body of water 
 rushing headlong from the rock, with the beautiful 
 surrounding perspectives altogether form a scene 
 which it is impossible to describe. As the morning 
 was bright and clear, a beautiful rainbow was 
 constantly observable in the clouds of mist and 
 "^pray, that are continually rising from the water 
 below. Here I hekUmy forenoon meeting, and 
 though no words were uttered, it could scarcely be 
 called a silent meeting; the objects before me 
 loudly proclaiming the power and majesty of the 
 Great First Cause and Creator of all things. 
 
 In the afternoon I returned to the inn, and, after 
 dinner, was invited by the commanding officer of 
 the English garrison to drink tea with him, and 
 his wife and family, in the fort. I accepted his 
 invitation, and spent the evening with them very 
 pleasantly. This officer, whose name is Tallant, 
 had spent some time in Sheffield, a few years 
 bsck, and had married his wife at Liverpool ; she 
 is an agreeable young woman, and well acquainted 
 with some friends of Liverpool. They had a fine 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 155 
 
 child with them, and upon the whole seemed hap- 
 pier than could be expected in such a situation. 
 They behaved with great kindness to me ; and it 
 appeared a gratification to them to entertain an 
 Englishman. 
 
 12th Months 2d, This morning I had the com- 
 pany of W. S. a minister of our society, belonging 
 to Ptlham monthly meeting, in this neighbour- 
 hood. He kindly mvited me to his house, to spend 
 a few days with him, but I could not conveniently 
 accept his invitation. In the forenoon I paid 
 another visit to the Falls, and it being a dark cloudy 
 day, the whole view had a more gloomy and solemn 
 aspect. There being none of the glare and glitter 
 of the sunshine, the eye could rest steadily upon 
 it; and, having a pencil and paper with me, I 
 took a sketch of the scene. 
 
 In the evening I came to D. P.'s of Black Creek 
 meeting, at whose house I lodged. This is a plea- 
 sant situation, on the banks of Lake Erie ; and 
 D. P's estaolishment presents an agreeable spe- 
 cimen of a Back Wood family. In the room 
 where we breakfasted, was a loom for weaving ; 
 in another apartment were spinning wheels, and 
 some of the girls actively platting straw and mak- 
 ing it into hats and bonnets for the family. In 
 addition to our tea and toast, we had excellent 
 broiled fish taken in the Lake, where they easily 
 
156 TRAVELS IN 
 
 procure great quantities. These persons were so 
 situated, that, in their own family, they had the 
 mt an^ of procuring nearly all the necessaries, and 
 even ma y of the luxuries of life. It was a very 
 beautiful sight, to see ten fine orderly -..hildren 
 sitting round the table with .their father and mo- 
 ther, who were still iu the prime of life, and living 
 independently of the uncertainties of commerce. 
 Thv; eldest daughter appeared to be about 16 years 
 old. One of the sons, who was but a boy, enter- 
 tained me with an account of his having lately killed. 
 a bear, as it was in pursuit of his fatner's hogs. 
 The English government, in order to encourage 
 the settlement of Upper Canada, grant to new 
 settkrs, 200 acres of land for heads of families, 
 and 50 acres additional for each child ; reserving 
 to the crown the minerals and the wi ite pines. 
 D. P. gave me the perusal of his grants, from 
 which 1 gathered the conditions. Some little ex- 
 pense attends the grants in the fees of office, 
 though bat trifling, and their taxes amount to a 
 very small sum per annum for each 100 acres. 
 
 12th Month, Sd, I left Black Creek ; and the 
 morning being clear an ? calm, the scenery around 
 was beautiful; After riding about 10 miles on the 
 banks of Lake Erie, I came to Fort Erie, where 
 I got some refreshment at th inn, and proceeding 
 a little furt'ier, I got into the ferry-boat, in com- 
 pany with an old drunken Indian, and his squaw. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 15/ 
 
 These poor creatures I had seen the morning be- 
 fore, at the inn, endeavouring to persuade Penning, 
 the landlord, to exchange spirituous liquors for a 
 piece of printed callico, wnich the Indian had re- 
 ceived as a present from the ageiit ot the British 
 Government in Canada. I was glad to observe 
 that Penning had the uprightness to refuse taking 
 advantage of. this poor creature, which he might 
 easily have done, as the Indian was then in a state 
 of intoxication, and scarcely able to utter any 
 thing but " Whisko," the name he gave to spirits. 
 I was told in Canada, that many thousand pounds 
 per annum are expended in presents to the Indians, 
 in order to insure their friendship in time of war ; 
 and that the greater part of these presents are ex- 
 changed for spirituous I'quors, which they use to 
 great excess, many times to th . loss of their lives, 
 and always at the expence of their health. 
 
 After crossing the Rapids, I passed through the 
 Prairies, or large open plains, already described. 
 In the evenmg I slept at an inn kept by a person 
 called Esquire Ransom. This is the title given 
 to all justices of the peace, and my landlord was 
 one, and a miller also. It seemed to me a little 
 strange, that men in such low stations snouid be 
 appointed magistrates. On makuig a remark to 
 this effect, they also thought it very strange that 
 we should measure peoples understanding by their 
 wealth. O 
 
158 TRAVELS iwr 
 
 12th Month, 4ih» I travelled this day mostly 
 through the woods, and met with some Indian 
 
 hunters, who behaved with civility. On one large 
 tree I saw an Indian painting that had been re- 
 cently done. The figures were, Indians, bows, 
 and arrows, and deer with arrows pierced through 
 the neck. The colours were chiefly black and 
 red, upon the white ground of the tree where the 
 bark was taken off. In passing through thtse 
 woods I saw divers very fine and lofty pines ; some 
 of them were 12 or 14 feet in circumference, and, 
 I suppose, not less than 170 feet in hight. I saw 
 many which had been blown down, and, in their 
 fall, had, with their reots, torn up mounds of 
 earth of considerable height. At night I came to 
 Batavia, and took up my quarters at the house of 
 J. E. and his brother, where I was kindly and 
 generously entertained. We had a part of a fine 
 haunch of vensison for supper, which they told me 
 they had bought of the Indiaas at lid. per lb. and 
 which was the regular sum paid for the best parts 
 of the fattest deer. 
 
 In the centre of a good room, in which I slept, 
 was fixed one of the most beautiful and curious 
 clocks I have ever seen. It was in the form of 
 an elegant mahogany pillar, on the capital of which 
 were four faces. On one of them was an orrery, 
 shewing the motions of the earth and planets 
 round the sun. On another face were marked 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 159 
 
 the hours and minutes ; and on the third face were 
 marked the names of 24 musical tunes, with a 
 pointer in the centre, which| being placed against 
 any name, repeated that tune every quarter, until 
 the pointer was moved to another. On the fourth 
 face was seen, through the glass, the curious 
 machinery of the clock. The value set upon this 
 ingenious piece of mechanism was 1003 dollars, 
 or 2251. The cabinet work of the case, as well 
 as the engravings and paintings about it, and also 
 the movements, although done in a beautiful and 
 workman-like manner, had all been executed 
 by men, none of whom had served an apprentice- 
 ship to their respective lines of business. The 
 mechanism was executed by the grandfather of 
 the kind friend in whose house it stands. This 
 family are remarkable for ingenuity, and have ren- 
 dered essential services to this country, by the 
 improvements they have made in the machinery 
 of flour mills. One of their progenitors had been 
 clock-maker to a King of England, and was con- 
 sidered a first-rate mechanic in his day. Thus 
 propensities and talents sometimes run in families 
 from one generation to another. 
 
 12^^ Mouthy 5th, After breakfast my hospita- 
 ble friends shewed me into the land office of the 
 Holland purchase, where every thing is arranged 
 in great order j and several clerks and surveyors 
 
160 TRAVELS IN 
 
 are employed. At one of the desks I saw 
 the surveyor whom 1 had met with a few days 
 before, in his Indian habiliments, just come out 
 of the woods, in which he had been surveying. 
 He was now transformed into a smart looking 
 clerk, so that I scarcely knew him. In the fore- 
 noon I left Batavia, and passed several hunting 
 parties of Indians. Yesterday, while breakfasting 
 at Vandevtnter's, I observed them sending out a 
 boy to a neighbouring settlement of these people, 
 to buy Indian corn ; and, on inquiring the cause, 
 I was told that in the settlements of the white 
 people thereabouts, the corn harvest had generally 
 failed. This not having been the case with the 
 Indians, the white people were therefore indebted 
 to them for support that season. The mistress of 
 Vandeventer's Tavern, who is a sober religious 
 woman, informed me that she sometimes employed 
 the Indian females in needle work, at which some 
 of them are exceedingly clever. On my inquiring 
 how it happened that they decreased in numbers 
 so fast, she told me that she often had conversation 
 on this subject, with the females she employed ; 
 and, on close inquiry, they would freely confess 
 that they used various unnatural means to prevent 
 an increase. On the landlady pleading with them, 
 and endeavouring to convince them of the sinful- 
 ness of their practices, they would sometimes 
 reply, that it was Impossible for them to carry 
 about a child, and also the skins, &c. which their 
 
KORTH America; 161 
 
 husbands procured in the woods ; and which they 
 were always forced to carry in the hunting season. 
 Such is the affecting situation of these poor Indian 
 mothers. 
 
 In the afternoon I came to Capt. Ganser's Ta- 
 vern, in approaching which, I observed a young 
 Indian female, who was standing not far from the 
 road, apparently full of trouble. On coming near 
 the house, I heard a noise very much like the 
 growling of a wild beast ; and on looking into the 
 hopsc, I saw a stout young .ndian singing a kind 
 of war song in his own language. The master of 
 the inn told me that he was much intoxicated, and 
 had been beating his wife, the female i had just 
 seen. She had, notwithstanding, taken from him 
 his toDiahawk and scalping knife, and put them 
 out of his way ; ar;d I was informed tiiat it is the 
 general practice of the Indian females, to take 
 awav these instrumenis of death, whenever there 
 is any appearance of intoxication. Even the li tie 
 girls are so instructed, ..hat when ver they see the 
 men in the way of being intoxicated, they will slily 
 take away these instruments and hide them until 
 the drunken fit is over. 
 
 After leaving this place I passed by a settlement 
 of white ptople, who were mostly Scotch High- 
 landers. Here I heard a company of drsmken 
 
 Indians singing their war song j and, passing ou ^ 
 
 O 21 
 
^2. TRAVELS IN 
 
 few miles farther I overtook a company of Indian 
 women with their children. The women were 
 disposed to talk with me, but I could not under- 
 stand a word they said, except scos, scos, and too 
 scoss ; the first of which I knew meant good, and 
 the latter, not good. Not long after I parted with 
 them I came to Cannawagas, an Indian village, 
 near the Genesee river, which I crossed, and, in 
 the evening came to Osmar's Tavern in Hartford, 
 where I spent the evening with two young men, 
 who had also been on a visit to the Falls of Niagara. 
 
 12t/i 3fo7ithy 6th. This morning I came to 
 General Hall's inn to breakfast. This repast con- 
 sisted of tea and toast, and broiled venison. In 
 the evening I came to Canandarque, and lodged at 
 Taylor's hotel. 
 
 12th Months 7th. This morning, as I arose, 
 I saw many Indians, both men and women, com- 
 ing into the town on business with the i;hop-keepers ; 
 and, when about mounting my horse, I saw a beau- 
 tiful salmon trout borne by two men upon a pole 
 which was put through the mouth and gills of the 
 fish. I thought it could not be less than 4 or 5 
 feet long, as its tail trailed upon the ground when 
 thus carried. 
 
 In the afternoon I passed through Geneva, and li 
 dined there ^t Powers hoteU In the evening I 
 
 
JfORTH AMERICA.' 1^ 
 
 rode about 8 miles on the banks of Lake Seneca ; 
 anJ lodged at Captain Knight's tavern, a beautiful 
 situation on the banks of the Lake. The landlord 
 informed me that he had been a long time in the 
 service of Daniel Offley, a friend of Philadelphia, 
 of whom he spoke with respect. 
 
 12th Month, 8th. This day I travelled along 
 the Bank of Lake Seneca, on which are many 
 pleasing prospects. I had, through the day, the 
 company of a young man, a son of the postmaster 
 at Newtown ; and, in the evening we came to Ely's 
 tavern in Hector township. One son of our land- 
 lord was called Hector, being the first white boy 
 who was born in the township, alter its settlement ; 
 he appeared to be about 12 years old. This part 
 abounds with deer and black squirrels, of which 
 sort of provisions they had plenty in the house ; and 
 we had some for supper. The squirrels were very 
 fat, much more so than I could have expected. 
 
 12th Month, 9th. We left Ely's tavern early, and 
 passed through a romantic country, where we had a 
 view of one of the prettiest water falls I had ever 
 seen. It descended, as by an easy flight of steps, down 
 the declivity of a mountain, at the foot of which 
 is Lake Seneca. I was told that both the white 
 inhabitants and Indians kill a great many deer by 
 hunting them down into the Lake, on which they 
 continue to pursue them in a boat or canoet I'he 
 
 '^y 
 
164 TRAVELS IN 
 
 pursuers soon overtake the deer, throw a halter 
 over the horns, and dragging it to the side of the 
 vessel, take the life of the poor animal with a large 
 knife, and then drag it on shore. 
 
 About noon we reached Catherines, a village at 
 the end of Lake Seneca ; at this village there is a 
 wharf, and some business is carried on in vessels of 
 about 50 tons burden. After taking some refresh- 
 Hient, we passed on through Catherines* Swymp, 
 a deep narrow valley v/ith mountains on each hand, 
 covered with lofty trees. Here, as the ev ning 
 approached :he valley resounded with the howling 
 of wolves ; the sound very much resembling the 
 noise of a number of larg- dogs, howling as they 
 sometimes do in the night, or on hearing the sound 
 of the horn. My companion, by w^iy of encourage- 
 ment, informed me that he had never heard of an 
 instance of either a wolf or a bear attacking a man, 
 except in case of themselves or their young beting 
 first wounded ; and, from whut I can learn, I be- 
 leive this statement to be correct. 
 
 This evenirg we came to Newtown and had 
 good accommod >tions at Ellis's tavern, where I 
 spent seme time with a person of the name of 
 Goldbride, who informed me that he was the first 
 person who had attempted the Lavigation of the 
 Shoumonge into he Susquehanna, and so down 
 to Baltimore and the Chesapeake Bay. In this first 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 165' 
 
 attempt he sustained considerable loss, and several 
 of the boatmen were drowned; but, from the im- 
 provements made in the navigation of this river, 
 considerable business is now done upon it. 
 
 12th Month, lOth, I left Newtown, and, tra- 
 velling along a thinly peopled country, came to a 
 small inn kept by one esquire Wynkoop, where I 
 got some refreshment. The innkeeper was not 
 only a justice oi the peace, but also a watchmaker. 
 Having broken the glass of my watch, he put a 
 brass cap over the face as none of his glasses 
 would suit. He appeared to be a very ingenious 
 artist; and as a Magistrate, possessed a good 
 share of useful knowledge. I perceived an edition 
 of Burn's Justice on the shelf, with his watch-mak- 
 ing tools, and therefore I suppose he administered 
 justice according to law. Towards evening I 
 came to Tioga Point, where is the junction of 
 the Shoumonge with the Susquehanna; and took 
 up my quarters at Doctor Hopkin's, an acquain- 
 tance of my relation J. E. to whose habitation 
 at Elklands I was bending my coarse. This 
 night I lodged at the Doctor's, ynd, next morning 
 set out for Elklands. After travelling along 
 the Bank of the Susquehanna, and passing by 
 Sugar Creek, I came to Dotherly's tavern in the 
 evening, on the Ban cs of Tawandy Creek. Here 
 I supped, and the next morning breakfasted on 
 wild venison. 
 
166 TRAVELS IN 
 
 12M, Months 12th. This morning I left Dother- 
 ly's, and rode many miles through ihe woods, with- 
 out seeing one habitation, or meeting with one indi- 
 vidual. The land in general is of good quality, 
 and the forest trees are mostly beech, hiccory, oak, 
 a species of pine, called hemloc, and the sugar 
 maple. From the last, considerable quantities of 
 sugar are made ; and I saw several sugar camps, 
 fenced in, where the sap is collected in small 
 wooden troughs, about two feet long, coarsely 
 made with the hatchet, and capable of containing 
 one or two gallons each. One of these troughs is 
 placed at the foot of each tree, and above it a hole 
 is pierced, with an inch and a half auger. In the 
 hole is fixed a spout, about one foot long, made 
 of the elder tree, with the pith taken out. As the 
 sap is collected, it is carried to the boilers, which 
 are fixed in the camp. Some farmers not only col- 
 lect sufficient sugar and treacle for their own 
 use, but have several hundred pounds weight to 
 dispose of to the grocers. After travelling about 
 12 miles, I came to a habitation called Eldridge*s 
 Tavern. The situation of this inn was very soli- 
 tary and romantic, in the midst of a very extensive 
 forest. The mistress of the house told me that 
 her husband and she had lately emigrated from 
 London, where they had carried on business in 
 Longacre, more than 14 years. 
 
 In the course of this day I came safe to my 
 relation's at Elklands, and found his family well. 
 
NORTH America." 167 
 
 The situation he has chosen is very solitary ; his 
 nearest neighbmr being about one mile off; but 
 there are several at about thai distance ; and some 
 of them being of our society, they have united 
 and built a meeting-house near them. 
 
 12th Month, 13th. I spent this afternoon at 
 J. H's, whose family were busily employed in 
 making maple sugar. J. H. is a minister in good 
 esteem, has an agreeable wife and a group of fine 
 children, who have plenty of employment in 
 clearing and cultivating his plantation in this wil- 
 derness, which, however, appears to be an excel- 
 lent soil ; and the situation being dry and healthy, 
 on a rising ground, there is every probability that 
 at some future day this may become a property of 
 great value. 
 
 12th Month, Uth. This day I visited E. H's, 
 a nephew of J. H's. He, with his wife and one 
 fine child, had but lately come into this country, 
 and had cleared only a very few acres, but which 
 appeared to be well managed, and very produc- 
 tive. He had just nailed up the skin of a large 
 bear, against the side of hia house. He had shot the 
 beast, whilst in the act of seizing one of his hogs, 
 having been led to the scene of action by the 
 shrieks of the poor animal, while under the rude 
 embraces of the bear. By E. H.'s attention, the 
 
168 TRAVELS IN 
 
 tables were quickly turned in favour of the hog, 
 which was rescued, and was in a fair way of re- 
 covering from its wounds. 
 
 12th Months 15th. I attended Elklands meet- 
 ing. During the sitting of it, a company of 
 hunters came in, and, h aving their rifle guns at the 
 door, behaved in a becoming manner until the 
 nveeting broke up. 
 
 12th Month, 16th, I spent this day at my re- 
 lation's. In the course of it I saw two of his 
 men cut down a hemlock tree, which is a species 
 of pine. This tree was 4* yards in circumference, 
 and 50 yards in length j yet it was of but little 
 value here. The timber which most abounds on 
 this farm is the sugar maple, the beech, the locust, 
 and the oak. This day I saw a family from near 
 Derby, in England, of the name of Lambert, who, 
 I understood, were likely to do well. 
 
 12th Month, 17th. I rode from Elkands to 
 Muncy, acro-s the Allegany Niountains, in com- 
 pany with J. H. and one of his n .ghbours. When 
 near the top of the Allegany Mountains, we passed 
 the company of hunters who had attended the 
 meeting at Elklands. The priixipal objects of 
 their pursuit were deer, although they had no ob- 
 jection to meeting with i bear or a wolf. In 
 passing down the Allegany Mountains, we came 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 169 
 
 near the house of a man of the name of Webster^ 
 who had killed 36 bears the last season. 
 
 In the evening we came to Muncy, where I took 
 up my lodgings at W. E.'s, a very hospitable friend. 
 This being the evening preceding the monthly 
 meeting, upwards of 20 friends lodged at his 
 house ; and, as far as I could judge, were both lib- 
 erally and comfortably entertained. I was told, by 
 a neighbour, that it was not very uncommon for as 
 many as 30 strangers to dismount at the door of 
 this friend's house, in the course of an evenings 
 and for themselves and horses to be all well ac- 
 commodated. W. E. has a family of 8 or 10 
 children, and his wife, who is an amiable woman, 
 sometimes appears in the ministry. Here I met 
 with my cousin S. 1\L, who has taken up her abode 
 at this place for the present. It affords a fine field 
 for the exercise of her talents j and I believe she 
 makes herself exceedingly useful. 
 
 12th Mouthy 18th, A deputation from Half- 
 moon valley montaly meeting, attended this meet- 
 ing at Muncy, with a proposition to unite these 
 two monthly meetings into a quarterly meeting ; 
 the friends of each of them havinr: to travel about 
 150 miles to their respective quarterly meetings^ 
 according to the present arrangement. 
 
 P 
 
it'O TRAVELS IN 
 
 After attending the monthly meeting, I dined 
 and spent the afternoon at W. E's, where I had the 
 company of my relation J. E. and that of many 
 other friends from the neighbouring meetings. 
 
 12th Months 19th. I spent this day at W. E's, 
 who appeared to be much employment as an agent 
 in the sale and purchase of lands in these parts ; 
 and, I understand, he has, by this means, acquired a 
 large property. A. sale of 100 acres of land was 
 made while I was here. The estate sold for about 
 S30l. sterling, with a tan-yard and some buildings 
 and other improvements thereon. It was consider** 
 ed well worth the money ; although, 10 or 15 years 
 ago, 501. would have been thought a good price 
 for the land ; it being 150 miles inland from Phi* 
 ladelphia; but there are now many good houses 
 and plantations scattered up and down in the 
 neighbourhood; and the roads are generally in 
 good order. ^ 
 
 12th Monthy 20th, I came this day to Jersey 
 town where I slept. In passing through the woods 
 this afternoon, I saw a flock of wild turkeys run* 
 Hing along the ground. 
 
 VJth Months 21st, This morning I came about 
 12 miles on my way en the banke of the Susque- \ 
 hanna opposite to Cattawessy, and breakfasted at 
 the house of a friend of the name of YarnaU 
 
NORT II AMERICA. 171 
 
 Observing something very wild and singular in the 
 countenance of an infant, which the friend's wife 
 was nursing on her lap, I inquired if it was her 
 own ; on which she informed me it was the child of 
 Jin Indian, and that she had taken charge of it. 
 
 After breakfast I attended Cattawessy monthly 
 meeting. Here I took up my quarters at J. L's, 
 a friend I had before been acquainted with. 
 J. L. and some of his neighbours were endeavour- 
 ing to dispose of their property at Cattawessy, 
 with a view of removing to the Ohio, the tide of 
 emigration now setting in strongly that way. Gene- 
 rally speaking, it is observable that local attach- 
 ments are very slight in this country, 
 
 12th Months 22<^. I came to Roaring Creek, 
 and attended the meeting there. Afterwards I 
 spent the afternoon and lodged at W. P's, having 
 been kindly invited to his house, by him, when at 
 J. L.'s. A neighbour of W. P.'s told us, that, some- 
 time before, when hunting deer with his dog and 
 rifle gun, he was suddenly alarmed by a :arge wolf 
 running by hjtp. On presenting his gun, he observ- 
 ed a considerable number following after as fast as 
 they could run, being in all 17 large wolves. They 
 all passed by without taking the least notice of 
 him ; however he fired at the last of them, and 
 killed him on the spot; the rest pursuing their 
 
172' , TRAVELS IJJ 
 
 rout without taking the least notice of their fallen 
 companion. 
 
 In that neighbourhood many friends had sold 
 their plantations, and had gone to reside in Upper 
 Canada, where they had each a grant of 2 or 300 
 acres from the British Government, without fur- 
 ther expense than the fees of ofEce, which are very 
 small, as already noticed. 
 
 12th Months 23cl, I came this day to Miller'd 
 Tavern, where, in the evening, I observed a hun- 
 ter exercising himself in shooting at a mark, with 
 his rifle gun. The mark at which he shot, was a 
 lighted candle. The accounts that are given of 
 the expertness of these shooters, are almost in- 
 credible. Most of this day's journey was through 
 a rough, stony country, very little of it being in a 
 state of cultivation ; but the sides of the mountains 
 were mostly covered with the flowering laurel ; and 
 the streams of the Mahony were seen winding 
 along the vallies. At the tavern where I dined 
 there was a hunter who, the landlord said, had shot 
 one hundred deer that season. 
 
 12tk Month, 24th, I came on with J. M. to a 
 German tavern, about 6 miles from Hamburg, 
 where we lodged. At this house I found but one 
 person who could speak English, and he being 
 out when I rose in the morning, I was unable to 
 make the family understand what I said to them. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 25'S* 
 
 t2th Month, 25th. I came this day to T, L.'sV 
 at Maiden Creek. Afterwards, at the house where 
 I lodged, I met with a venerable looking man, 
 whose countenance was almost lost in a large 
 bushy beard, which C3ttended a considerable way 
 down his breast. On conversing with him, it ap- 
 peared he was of the religious society called 
 Dunkers. I enquired of him the reason why the 
 lAen of their society were so tenacious of their 
 beards, and expected to have heard some motive 
 assigned that had at least the appearance oi 
 weight; but in this I was disappointed; for he 
 either could not, or would not assign any other 
 than this :" That as they beleived the practice of 
 shaving originated from a desire in the men to 
 make themselves agreeable to the women, it was 
 unbecoming the gravity of a religious character to 
 act from such motives," 
 
 12th Month, 26th. I came this day to BetKlehfem;^ 
 a town inhabited almost entirely by Moravians* 
 They have here a well-conducied boarding-school 
 for girls, where children of all persuasions are 
 taught every branch of learning that is deemed ne* 
 cessar^^ for females; and, for this purpose, the best 
 masters and mistresses are procured from different- 
 parts of Europe and America. 
 
 The inn is large and commodious, and conducted- 
 
 XTith a good deal of order and regularity; and is^ 
 
 P 2 
 
ir4 TRAVELS lU 
 
 not inferior to some of the principal inns in Eng- 
 land. Soon after I alighted, I was invited by a 
 repectable old man to look over the schools that 
 evening. I was glad of the offer, as I had an op- 
 portunity of seeing nearl) 100 of the girls collected, 
 and of hearing many of them repeat a number of 
 short pieces in verse and prose. 
 
 12th MoJith, 27th, I remained at Bethlehem, 
 and this morning was again kindly invited, by the 
 person who was my conductor last evening, to go 
 over the different apartments in the school and 
 establishment. I gladly accepted his offer, and 
 was well pleased with the neatness and order that 
 prevailed throughout the whole. This town is 
 pleasantly situated on the banks of the Lehigh, a 
 branch of the Delaware, which is navigable 
 down to Philadelphia. The town was founded by 
 Count Zinzf ndorff, and a large tract of good land 
 was purchased here by him, which is now of very 
 great value. 
 
 I2th, Mouthy 29th, I went to Plymouth, and 
 attended the meeting there, and afterwards came 
 forward to Spring Mills, where I dined at 1\ L.'s, 
 in company with N. W. jun. who, with T. L.'s 
 sister, narrowly escaped with their lives as we 
 came from Plymouth. They were both in a single- 
 horse chaise, and the horse being in high condition 
 5ind fuU of spirits, took fright at something he saw, 
 
KORTH AMERICA. 1^5 
 
 atid set ofF on a full gallop : the rein breaking, he 
 became ungovernable, so that one of the wheels 
 soon came in contact with a post, on which the 
 carriage was immediately whirled over, and they 
 were both thrown out with great violence ; but pro- 
 videntially they received little or no injury. 
 
 This afternoon I returned safe to Merion, having, 
 in this excursion, travelled about a thousand miles. 
 
1716 TRAVELS I>f' 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 Merion — Cruel murder of a black boy — A few lines ad-^ 
 dressed to the author* s family — fireservation of a shifts 
 comfiany'-^Baltimore'-^Emigrantsfrom Germany and 
 Holland — Elkridge-^Comfiany of slaveS'-^Washing- 
 ton — A faithful slave^ 
 
 12th Month, Sist, 1805, I was employed in my 
 commercial concerns in Philadelphia. In posing 
 along the market-house in this city, the variety of 
 wild animal food exposed to sale was very striking ; 
 such as bear*s flesh, oposums, racoons, squirrels, 
 deer, badgers, or ground hogs, &c. &c. ; besides 
 a great variety of wild fowls. Many of the latter 
 were of beautiful plumage, but quite unknown^ 
 to me. 
 
 1806, 1st Months 1st, I returned to Merion, 
 and spent the following day there, in writing ta 
 my family and friends in England. I thought it 
 remarkable, especially at this season of the year, 
 that, notwithstanding there was- a good deal of> 
 plate in constant use, in the house where I lodged, 
 the doors were never looked at night, nor even had' 
 any locks on them : the only fastening to the prin- 
 cipal front door, was a nail or a pin put over the 
 latch ; and even this prec;^ution was not unfre-- 
 quently omitted. From what I could learn, it was 
 genenerally the practice, in this neighourhood,. to- 
 leave the doors unlocked, although the township lifs^ 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 177 
 
 upon one of the most public turn-pike roads in 
 America, only about 7 miles from Philadelphia, a 
 city containing considerable more than one hundred 
 thousand inhabitants. 
 
 As my commercial and other engagements occu- 
 pied chief of my time during my further stay in 
 America, I shall now again make occasional ex- 
 tracts from my diary, instead of detailing the vari- 
 ous transactions it records. 
 
 1*^ Months 5th, I attended Merion meeting, 
 and spent the afternoon at H. B.'s, whose neigh- 
 bour, R. J, handed me a note, containing an 
 account of the number of families, &c. in the 
 Middle Monthly Meeting of Philadelphia, as they 
 stood in the 1st Month, 1800, as follows ; — 
 
 Total number of Members 1330 
 
 Families 280 
 
 Male heads of Families . 160 
 Men Friends 21 years of age and upwards . 200 
 
 In the year 1806, the time when the note was 
 handed to me, the numbers in that monthly meet- 
 ing were increased, and amounted to between 3 and 
 4 hundred families. 
 
 1*^ Month) loth. In conversation with H. B. he 
 related to me an effecting narrative of a black boy, 
 who came under, the observation of his brother J. R. 
 and resided near his dwelling at Lewis-Town, in 
 Delaware State. It happened that the master of 
 
17$ TRAVELS IN 
 
 this poor lad had missed a piece of leather, and he 
 charged the boy, who was his slave, wiih stealing 
 it. The boy denied the charge. However, as 
 the master was unable to discover what was be- 
 come of the leather, and looked upon the denial 
 of the charge as a thing of course, he was very 
 much irritated that hti was unable to bring any proof 
 against the lad. In order lo extort confession, the 
 master tied him up by the hands, a considerable 
 height from the ground, and fixed a heavy piece 
 bf wood (a fence rail) to his feet. In this situa- 
 tion he beat the poor bov in so unmerciful a man- 
 ner, that he died under the torture thus cruelly 
 inflicted by his brutal master. ScarcJy had the 
 poor little innocent breathed his last, under 
 these torments, before the master's son, smitten 
 with remorse on being the occasion of such 
 dreadful cruelties, confessed that it was himself 
 who had stolen the leather, for which the poor 
 little slave had just paid the forfeit of his life. 
 However void of the feelings of humanity, it may 
 well be supposed, that this hard-hear.ed master 
 was not a little mortified at having wantonly put 
 to death a valuable slave : but, such was the pro- 
 tection which that State afforded these oppressed 
 fellow-creatures, that the master escaped punish- 
 ment, as is commonly the case on occasions of 
 murder committed by the whites on their black 
 slaves. 
 
NORTH AMERICA, X^g 
 
 1^/ Months 12th, On a retrospect of my tra- 
 vels in this ContinCi-t, I couid not avo-d recalling 
 to mind the beauty and grandeur of the surround* 
 ing scenery, which I have so often admired ; whe- 
 ther in looking down from the Allegany Mountains 
 upon vast forests, extending, on every hand, as far 
 as the eye can reach ; or in wandering along the 
 banks of those extensive lakes in the Genessee 
 Country, and Upper Canada, in the midst of 
 which, the stupendous cataract of Niagara stuns 
 the ear. Equally mpressjv^ was the scene in 
 sailing on those majestic rivers, the Delaware, 
 the Hudson, the Potowmack, or the Susquehanna, 
 whose ever vaiying banks open prospects extremely 
 wild and beautiful ; or in traversing those almost 
 bounuless forests which still remain in an unculti- 
 vated state, where 1 often beheld the native Indian 
 families rambling in search of game. In all these 
 changing scenes, however striking and impressive, 
 the recollection of my near connexions at home 
 was almost ever with me ; and the remembrance 
 of these tender ties induced a short address to my 
 wife and family, which led me to exhibit the ef- 
 fects of divine love in a few additional stanzas. 
 Though they may have litth to recommend them, 
 I insert the lines in this place :*-*• 
 
 Tho» far divided, still I feel thee near, 
 
 And oft, on thee, remembrance loves to dwell, 
 
 As on a friend well tried, and doubly dear, * 
 
 Whose worth my heart-can better feel than tell. 
 
180 TRAVELS IN" 
 
 Thro* all thy conflicts, may the hand of pow^, 
 Lead thee m safety on the devious way; 
 
 And watch around thee, thro' each varying hour. 
 Thy guard and guide unto the latest day. 
 
 Those tender plants the pledges of our love. 
 True to themselves, as to known duty true, 
 
 By thy example led, oh! may they prove. 
 The joys of virtue; and her paths pursue. 
 
 As oft, at early dawn, or evening's close. 
 
 These widely, waving woods, I pensive trace. 
 
 This tender wish within my bosom flows. 
 In love unbounded still by time or space. 
 
 Kot this Atlantic»s vast extended flood. 
 Encircling many an Isle in his embrace; 
 
 Kor these wide forests that have ages stood, 
 A shade and shelter to an Indian race; 
 
 Not all the deeps where oceans waves combine. 
 With ev»ry forest's broad extended space. 
 
 More widely spread than does that love divine. 
 Which, as it flows, embraces every race. 
 
 With its mild influence cloth'd, the mind can view. 
 
 All human kind with one benignant eye; 
 Whate'er their nation, or whate'er their hue. 
 For suffering man the heart can heave a sighr 
 
 Behold yon slave with wretchedness cast down. 
 Torn from his wife and children's weeping eye. 
 
 He toils unpitied in a land unknown. 
 
 And eats his bitter bread with many a sigh. 
 
 Free and untainted, from its source sublime, 
 Tho' the pure current of the gospel flowsj 
 
 ,.3fet what avails it to this favour'd clime. 
 If man, obdurate stiU, no pity knows' 
 
N0RTH A3IERiqA. 181 
 
 Or what avails it, the fair freedom rear. 
 
 Her beauteous throne upon a fertile land. 
 If there ten thousands still the chain must wear^ 
 
 And, unregarded, lift the suppliant hand! 
 
 1st Monthy 18th, I spent this day at Philadel- 
 phia. In crossing the floating bridge at the upper 
 ferry, I observed the people engaged in a singular 
 kind of harvest, being employed in breaking up 
 and taking away large quantities of ice, to lay up 
 for summer use. Those who have never visited 
 warm climates, can scarcely conceive how pleasant 
 the use of ice is, for various purposes of the table, 
 in the summer season. 
 
 1st Month, 25th. In crossing the Schuylkill on 
 the floating bridge, at the upper ferry, I passed a 
 Negro boy apparently about 12 5'ears of age. 
 Rouiid his neck an iron collar was locked, and 
 from each side of it an iron bow passed over his 
 head. His dress was a Jight linsey jacket and 
 trowsers, without hat, shoes, or stockings. Soon 
 after passing the boy, whom I supposed to be a 
 runaway slave, I met a person of whom i inquired 
 the reason of the boy's havng so mach iron about 
 him. The man replied ihat the boy was hi., jnd 
 was so often running away that he had used that 
 method to prevent him. 
 
 1st Month, 29ih, After having passed several 
 days at Mcrion, chieny in ^writing to my family 
 
 ' Q 
 
182 TRAVELS IN 
 
 and connexions, I went this day to Philadelphia, 
 and forwarded various letters and papers to Eng- 
 land. Afterwards I dined at J. A.'s, an English- 
 man, who had often kindly invited me to his house. 
 He had been sent to this country by D. B. on 
 business. J. A. gave me an account of singular 
 preservation experienced by the ship's company 
 in crossing the Atlantic, when more than 50O 
 miles from land* His narrative was nearly as 
 follows ; — Lying awake early one morning, he was 
 alarmed by the people's continuing a long time at 
 the pump. Abc.ut five oVlock the Captain came 
 down and informed him that the ship had sprung 
 so considerable a leak, that he was fearful the 
 consequence would be s.rious, for th^ water gained 
 fast upon them; that in all prob..bility it would not 
 be many hours before the vessel would sink, and 
 that there was no altern tive but taking to the long- 
 boat. Preparations were accordingly made to 
 leave the ship, by providing the ftw stores and 
 necessaries they were able to stow in the boat. 
 While this was doing the water increased so rapidly, 
 that, early in tKe forenoon, it filled the lower hold 
 and began to make its appearance on the cabin 
 floor. About noon all were under the absolute ne- 
 cessity of leaving the ship, from an expectation she 
 would go down every moment. With this avv ful pro- 
 pe> t before them, the ship's company committed 
 vthemselves to the waves, with scarcely a ray of hope 
 
NORTH AMERICA. t83 
 
 of ever reaching the land. The afternoon was spent 
 with heavy hearts, being every moment in danger of 
 having their boat overset or filled with water. 
 When the darkness of the night came on, it added 
 to the horrors of their situation. However, soon 
 alter it was dark, about eight o'clock, the Captain 
 stood up, and being stiff with long sitting in a confin- 
 ed posture, stretched himself out, with his face to- 
 wards that part oi th? horizon, where the moon 
 was at that moment risi-.g and casting a stream of 
 light along the surface of the waters. This afforded 
 hii li an opportunity of discovering a vessel which, 
 providentially, at that very time, was passing be- 
 tween them and the moon just as she rose above the 
 waves. The prospect of so unexpected a deliver- 
 ance, gave such new strength to the poor sailors 
 at the oars, that, in a short time they came up 
 with the ship, and were all taken safely on board. 
 
 It is difficult to describe the feelings of a grate- 
 ful mind, on an occasion like this ; but from such 
 an event, we may all draw this useful lesson : not 
 to be too much discouraged even under the most 
 adverse circumstances of life. 
 
 On the ZOth of the Ut Month, I left Merion, 
 and this day, the 1st of 2d Month, I cix)ssed the 
 Susquehanna to Charlesiown, and thence came to 
 Bush. Here I rested about an hour at an inn, the 
 landlord of which told me that he was a native of 
 
584 TRAVELS IN 
 
 London, and had received his education in Christ 
 Church Hospital. On coming over to America 
 about 60 years ago, he landed near the place where 
 Baltimore now stands ; but, at that time, the town 
 was not begun, altho' it now contains near 30,000 
 inhabitants, and is one of the best built towns I have 
 seen. Indeed I do not know any in England su- 
 perior to it in beauty. In the evening i came to 
 an elegant inn ca'.led the Stone-house, and the next 
 day reached Baltimore, and it being 1st day, I at- 
 tended the meeting there. 
 
 2d 3fout/h 3^. I attended the quarterly meetr, 
 ing at Baltimore, which was held iu the new 
 meeting-house, a very handsome brick building, 
 about 30 yards in length and proportionably broad. 
 It cost nearly 60 Ol. This meeting-house is so coiij? 
 structe^., that both men and wonien keep their seats 
 when the meetings for worship close, which are 
 held previously to proceedingto their respective bu- 
 siness. The partition which divides the house into 
 two parts, is so constructed, that it winds round a 
 windlass with flat sides. The pannels of the par- 
 tition are joined to each other by hinges ; are so 
 proportioned that they wrap round the windlass as 
 truly and regularly as a piece of canvass ; and are 
 so nicely managed, that in winding up or letting 
 down, they make no more noise than a common 
 curtain. It is obvious that the first range of pan- 
 nels at the top, next to the windlass, must be the 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 185 
 
 narrowest j and that they must gradually increase 
 in breadth to the lowest range, otherwise they 
 could not wrap regularly round the axle. The 
 gradual decrease in the breadth of the pannels has 
 a very pretty effect, when the shutters are down ; 
 and, contrary to my expectations, I did not observe 
 that the meeting suffered any inconveniency from 
 the voices of the women, in the other division of 
 the house. 
 
 2cl Months Afth^ This day I visited a friend, his 
 wife and family, who in company with several 
 others had lately emigrated from the neighbour- 
 hood of Fyrmont in Germany. Their object in 
 coming to America, was, that they and their chil- 
 dren might have more of the company of friends. 
 As the wages of the poor are very low in that part 
 of Germany, not exceeding 3d. or 4d. per day, 
 and the necessaries of life are high in proportion, 
 few labourers there can afford to hu\e any thing 
 better than coarse rye or barley bread, sprinkled 
 with a little salt, to their tea or coffee ; and these 
 Germans, b ing all labouring people in low cir- 
 cumstances, found a great alteration in their situ- 
 ation every way, and appeared very thankful for 
 the change. 
 
 2d Month, 5th. In the course of the day I vi- 
 sited a family of friends, who had lately emigrated 
 fvrom Amsterdam, of the name of Poppeleim, and 
 
186 Tfi-AVELS IN 
 
 who had come to this country with the same views 
 as the Germans just mentioned ; but, being men 
 of property, were engaged in business. These 
 friends having been eye witnesses of the ravages of 
 war, which of late have so desolated some of the 
 finest countries in Europe, often expressed their 
 thankfulness, in broken EvigUsh, that they were 
 permitted thus to sit down in a land, where peace 
 and plenty so genera ly prevailed. One of the last 
 mentioned family, of the name of Valentine, a man 
 of a very delicate constitution, and who had suf- 
 fered a great deal tnrough bad health, and the 
 almost constant state of alarm his country had 
 been kept under for years past, by contending 
 armies, used sometimes to say to his brothers : 
 " How thankful ought we now to feel for being 
 thus placed amongst fj lends ; we can sleep peace- 
 fully in our beds, and, rising in the mornirg, we 
 can pursue our business without interruption or 
 alarm ; and can sit down in a land of plenty, eating 
 our bread in quietness and peace*" This evening 
 I supped with I. P. an English friend, who some 
 years back had emigrated from York, and is now 
 well settled in business here. 
 
 2^. Months 6th, I attended Baltimore week-day 
 meeting. In the afternoon I set out for Washing- 
 ton city, in company with E. W. and slept this 
 aight at his house near Elk ridge, where he has a 
 valuable estate^ and a large well constructed floirr- 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 187 
 
 mill. iDuring the continuance of the war car- 
 ried on by Great Britain, in this country, he 
 Was tried with the loss of all his property, and a 
 long confinement in prison i but his integrity and 
 perseverance rose abov^e all his difficulties ; and he 
 is now placed in a situation of life far above most 
 of his persecutors. 
 
 2^. Months 7th» I left E. W's hospitable roof, 
 and, in the evening, came to Bladensburg, where 
 X had the company of a young surgeon to supper, 
 of the name of Jo^"i Bell, who had accompanied 
 the American squadron in the late expedition 
 against the Dey of Tripoly, and was at the storm- 
 ing of the fort and town of Derne, on the coast 
 of Africa. In hearing narratives of this kind, the 
 mind is often lost in astonishment in the consi- 
 deration that a man, endowed with reason, can 
 bring himself to believe there is any thing meri- 
 torious in thus exposing his life and limbs to de- 
 struction, and oftentimes when he is a total 
 stranger to the causes of the quarrel which he has 
 espoused. How lamentable is it that the noblest 
 faculties of man should be debased, and the funda- 
 mental principles of the christian religion trodden 
 underfoot, through the indulgence of ferocious and 
 warlike dispositions. 
 
 ^d, Monthy Bth. In travelling this day, I passed 
 by a company of black slaves, chained together. 
 
IftS TRAVELS IN 
 
 with a white man of a savage countenance, holding 
 a large pistol in his hand, driving them before him. 
 Behind was a cart, in which were some Negro 
 children, who had been torn from their parents by 
 this member of civilized and polished society, who 
 was now taking them down into Georgia, there 
 to remain in abject slavery for life. In viewing 
 this painful scene as it passed before me, it was 
 almost impossible to avoid noticing how different 
 were the countenances of the infant company in 
 the cart, compared with that of their unfeeling 
 conductor. On the former were seen the smiles 
 of innocence, whilst on the latter sat brooding a 
 mixture of cruelty and avarice, which no pen or 
 pencil can describe. 
 
 In the afternoon I came to Washington city ; 
 and on the 9th I attended the meeting at Wash- 
 ington. After meeting I was kindly invited by 
 M. P. to her son-in-law^s house, who is Secretary 
 of State J but, having engaged to spend the after- 
 noon elsewhere, I was obliged to decline the offtr. 
 In the evening I had the company of a native of Fal- 
 mouth ; but, of late years, he has been employed in 
 the national dock-yard at Washington city, as naval 
 architect. I understood that he had, early in life, 
 been invited over to this country by Doctor 
 Franklin, as one skilled in ship-building. Having 
 had his education in our society, it appeared in- 
 consistent that he should be employed in coa- 
 
- KORTH AMERICA. 189 
 
 structing ships of war ; but I found he had forfeited 
 his membership. However, I am mistaken, if the 
 building of ships of war is not a burden greater 
 than he will be able long to bear. A friend of 
 the name of J. A. supped with us this evening. 
 Ke was from Providence in Rhode Island, and 
 gave us an interesting narrative of a journey he 
 took through the wilderness parts of this continent, 
 to New Orleans in Louisiana. A consid Table 
 part of the way he went by water in canoes, hav- 
 ing Indian conductors, and passed through many 
 Indian settlements, by the chiefs of which he 
 was, in general, kindly and hospitably entertained. 
 At one Indian village in particular, the chief, 
 calling together the inhabitants to a place where 
 they held their public meetings, and placing 
 Jonathan by his side, made a long harangue. The 
 substance of it was, his approbation of the prin- 
 ciples and practices of friends, concerning which 
 he had obtained information at some former pe- 
 riod, and which he then endeavoured to explain 
 to the Indians about him. Amongst other things 
 he remarked, it was a self-evident truth, that the 
 Power which gave life and breath to man, alone 
 had the right to take it. At another settlement 
 of Indians, he was agreeably surprised to find 
 what great progress was made in agriculture and 
 manufactures. He was told, that in this district 
 there were 200 looms employed by Indians ; and 
 at the table of the chief at which he was enter- 
 
190 TRAVELS IN 
 
 tained, there wp>s every kind of vegetables and 
 fruit common in the cities of America ; such 
 as pease, beans, cabbages, aspiragus, melons, 
 peaches, &c. At dinner, amongst other things, a 
 quarter of roasted lamb was served up; a thing 
 hardly to have been expected at an Irdian table. 
 
 2d Monthy 10th, This morning I visited S. B. 
 at his office in the 'I'reasury, of which he is the 
 head cierk. From the Treasury A was kindly 
 conducted by J. P. to his mjther'i:, who was 
 then resident with her son-in-law, J. M. the pre- 
 sent Secretary of State to the United States. I 
 spent a little time pleasantly with the Secretary, 
 who was confined to his house, by a hurt he had 
 received upon his knee j and although pretty much 
 a stranger in the family, I received a kind invita- 
 tion to call at his house, whenever business might 
 lead me to Washington city. 
 
 As I had never seen Thomas Jefferson, the 
 President of the United States, this hospitable 
 family offered to introduce me to him, and the 
 Secretary's brother-in-law accompanied me to t"he 
 Pres dent's house, where I was received by him 
 with a shake by the hand, as though we had been 
 old acquaintance ; and immediately he entered into 
 conversation with as much freedom as if we had 
 been long known to each other. After sitting a 
 
IfORTH AMERICA. - 191 
 
 short time in this friendly way, I informed him, 
 that as my object in calling upon Tiim, deserved 
 scarcely a better name than curiosity, I should be 
 very sorr)^ to detain him ; especially as his time 
 must be fully occupied with the important con- 
 cerns of Government ; Congres. being then sitting. 
 After this, rising from my chair, he came forward, 
 and again taking me by the ha d, bade me farewell. 
 From his disregard to all useless forms and cere- 
 monies, not excepting those of religion, his ene- 
 mies accuse him of being deficient both in religion 
 and politeness. But there are men, that have 
 seen a great deal of the world, who beli ve, on 
 good grounds, that where true rel gion and true 
 politeness most abound, there we see least of 
 forms and ceremonies, and that true religion and 
 true politeness generally go hand in hand. 
 
 Having received an invitation from one of the 
 Members of Congress, to attend their si" ting, I 
 this day went to the Capitol and heard iheir de- 
 bates. 1 also visited the Hall where the Senate 
 was sitting ; but as th-rre was nothing very interest- 
 ing before them, I had not an opportunity of 
 hearing their principal orators. 
 
 After visiting the Senate and House of Repre- 
 sentatives, I sptnt a short time in the Supreme 
 Fed ral Court ; where the Chief Justice was then 
 sitting. Although a great part of the Caiptol is 
 
192 TRAVELS IN 
 
 already finished, in a convenient, and indeed, in a 
 superb style, yet a great deal remains to be done 
 before the whole will be completed. 
 
 After dining at Washington, I set out for Balti- 
 more ; and arrived there the 2d of I2th Month, 
 accompanied by E. W. and his wife, from their 
 own habitation, where I lodged last night. E. W. 
 gave me an affecting account of a black slave, 
 residing near his house, who is a pattern of inte- 
 grity and industry. Such is the confidence re- 
 posed in him by his master, that for many years 
 past it has been his practice to send this slave to 
 Baltimore, with his waggon laden with various 
 kinds of produce, the sale of which he intrusts to 
 this black man ; also the care of receiving and 
 bringing home the money ; by which means it fre- 
 quently happens that large sums of money pass 
 through his hands. This service he has performed 
 so much to the satisfaction of his master, that he 
 scarcely ever ventures to employ any other person 
 for these purposes. 
 
 This faithful slave has a wife and a large family 
 of children, who reside in a hut close by his mas- 
 ter's house. He is alowed a small portion of time 
 weekly to do something for himself and famdy; 
 and being frec;uently employLd bv the neighbours 
 to do little errands for them in Baltimore, he has, 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 193 
 
 during many years of care, and frequently by hard 
 labour when others were at rest, scraped together 
 about 2001. He lately made an offer of all this 
 to his master for the freedom of his family; but 
 the master absolutely refused to give him his liberty 
 on any condition, alledging that he could not meet 
 with another in whom he could so confide. 
 
 The poor man had greatly flattered himself w^^ith 
 hopes, that considering his time of life, being now 
 about 50 years old, a much smaller sum would have 
 procured his liberty ; and it would indeed have pur- 
 chased that of almost any other slave in the neigh- 
 bourhood. On finding his master inexorable, his 
 disappointment and distress were extreme, and, in 
 the anguish of his hearr, he determined to leave 
 his wife and children, and take the first opportu- 
 nity of quitting the country for ever. However 
 he concluded first to call on E. W. who had 
 always been his friend and adviser, to inform him 
 of his resolution. E. W. sympathized with him 
 in his affliction, but did not let that suffice ; for he 
 went immediately to the master, and used every 
 endeavour to prevail upon him to accept the 
 money offered, and, to grant the man and his 
 family their free Jom. In order to induce the mas- 
 ter's compliance, E. W. represented to him the 
 exceedingly unge )crous return he was making to 
 the poor man for his fidelity and industry ; as the 
 only plea urged by this unfeeling master, for his 
 
 H 
 
194 TRAVELS IN 
 
 cruel conduct, was the uprightness and integrity 
 of the Slave ! I But, alas ! avarice is deaf to all 
 arguments except those of self-interest ; it was 
 therefore in vain that E. W. thus pleaded the 
 cause of suffering virtue ; for the hardened task- 
 master was inexorable to all his reasonings ; and 
 the poor black man and his family remain in bon- 
 dage, living witnesses to what a pitch of obdurac}% 
 avarice and self-interest can harden the heart of 
 man. As nothing that E. W. could say had any 
 effect upon the master, he thought it his duty to 
 endeavour to reconcile the poor slave to his hard 
 lot, and to persuade him not to leave his wife and 
 family, as it appeared his full determination to 
 have done. In this he was more successful; for 
 the poor man concluded to remain with them, and 
 endeavour to bear his burden with patience. 
 
 ««f 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 195, 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Baltimore — Gu7ifioivder Falls — Mary Stroud — Civil- 
 zing the Indians'--'JVegro Boy Sado-— Battle of Brari' 
 dy-wine^ and events in the neighbourhood — Westgrove 
 --^Another jYegro Boy — Merion — Occurrences there^ 
 i^c. — General Moreau — A J^egro Slave Toho had been 
 liberated — D^-. Franklin, 
 
 2ci Month, ISth, 1806. I attended Baltimore 
 monthly meeting, and afterwards dined at J. M.'s, 
 a friend who after many years successful applica- 
 tion to business, had retired from it, and was em- 
 ploying a part of his leisure hours, in promoting 
 £n extensive work for supplying the town with 
 water, in which he h^ embarked considerable pro- 
 perty conjointly with many others. I took a walk 
 with him to view the work as it was in progress, 
 and, from what I could judge, it will be attended 
 with very great expense ; but no doubt it will prove 
 highly beneficial to the inhabitants of Baltimore. 
 
 2ci Month, 24:th. This day I dined with G. M. 
 an ancient friend, who filled the office of inspector 
 of beef and pork, exported from the Port of Bal- 
 timore. The United States not requiring any 
 oaths from those appointed to offices under gov- 
 ernment, it frequently happens that friends accept 
 of them. 
 
196 TRAVELS I^ 
 
 2cl Months iSth, I visited G. P. one of the 
 friends lately come from Amsterdam to settle in 
 Baldmore. They had opened a shop here which 
 they had furnished with the manufactures of 
 France and Germany ; and, for the short time they 
 had been in business, had met with good encourage- 
 ment. I was rather surprised to see that in some 
 of the shops in this p'ace^ as well as in Philadel- 
 phia, although nearly the whole stock consisted 
 of the manufactures of other countries, yet but 
 little of it was from England. 
 
 2d 31onth^ 16th. I attended Baltimore forenoon 
 meeting, and in the afternoon attended by J. T. 
 and G. M. left that city. In the evening we came 
 to H. J.'s, a minister who is well respected in this 
 neighbourhood. His house and plantation lie near 
 the Gunpowder Falls, and not far from the meet- 
 ing which bears that name. I was told of a re- 
 markable preservation which the friends of this 
 meeting experienced during the revolutionary war 
 in America. As our society generally had shewn 
 an attachment to the government of England, at 
 the breaking out of the r.,volution, and had, as a 
 body, adhered to their peaceable principle in re» 
 fusing to take any active part in the struggle, there 
 were many amongst the most violent of the revolt- 
 ing colonists, who were greatly exasperated against 
 friends. However a few individuals in the society, 
 were not so careful as in common prudence they 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 19!^ 
 
 ought to have been ; and several of them were 
 accordingly tried, convicted, and executed, as 
 traitors to their country. The conduct of these 
 imprudent individuals, increased the disgust of 
 tho^e violent partizans, and it sometimes happened 
 that innocent friends were dragged from their 
 meeting-houses to orison. At that period, a part 
 of the American army lay neyr the Gunpowder 
 Falls meeting-house, which, however, did not pre- 
 V<fnt friends from holding their meetings for wor- 
 ship. Amongst the troops of which this part of 
 the army was composed, there was a Colonel of a 
 regiment of dragoons, whose resentment against 
 friends was raised to such a pitch of malice, that 
 one day, when traversing the country, he came to 
 the most extraoidinary and cruel resolution of 
 putting to the swovd, the friends who were then' 
 collected at their place of v/orship; considering^ 
 them as no better than a company of traitors. 
 Drawing up his men near the spor, he ordered 
 them to halt, in order to make arrangements for 
 the execution of his dreadful purpose. At this, 
 moment an awlul silent pause took place, in 
 which he felt his mihd so .powerfully smitten 
 widi convictioa, that he not only drew off his 
 men, but conceived very favourable sent.ments of 
 the society ; and continuing to } ield to his convic- 
 tions, he afterwards joined in communicn with 
 friends, and continued faithfal to the. principle o£ 
 truth as professed by them. 
 
 K 2 
 
198 TRAVELS IN 
 
 2d Month, 18lh, This morning we passed by 
 Ncttingham meeting-house, in the neighbourhood 
 of which John Churchman formerly resided. 
 About noon we came to S. C.'s to dinntr, where 
 we had the company of JVIary Stroud, one of the 
 fifteen children of Joseph Gilpin, mentioned by 
 Thomas Chalkley in his Journal, page 313, Edit. 
 1766. This friend was in very low circumstances 
 at the time Thomas Chalkley first visited him, and 
 his habitation was a cave by the side of a moun- 
 tain ; although many of his descendants, at this 
 time, are people in opulence in America. The 
 cave is now in the possession of one of them, at 
 whose house I was oace hospitably entertained, 
 and who considers it as reflecting honour upon the 
 family, rather than as being any disparagement ta 
 it. Mary Stroud, although about ICO years old, 
 still retained her facuLies in an extraordinary 
 manner, and her observatians were often shrewd 
 and pointed. 
 
 2d Month, t9th. I attended the quarterly meet- 
 ing at London Grove, the closing sitting of which, 
 was one of the largest I ever was at. VV. J. and 
 R. M. two valuable American ministers, were 
 here j the latter of whom appeared in an extraor- 
 dinary manner, and being a young man of afe 
 amiable disposition, and pleasing delivery, he will,. 
 1 trust, continue a useful ornament in the church. 
 Yet how frequently do we see the fairest hopes. 
 
NORTH AMERICA^ 199 
 
 and prospects clouded ; sometimes by the unwise 
 attentions and adulations of the admiring crowd* 
 It is greatly to be lamented, that even those who 
 in an especial manner are placed as guardians and 
 overseers of the shepherds, are not altogether clear 
 of fanning that little spark of vanity, which the 
 grand enemy contrives, in one form or other, to 
 light in almost every human breast. 
 
 On coming out of the house after the breaking 
 up of the meeting, I was surprised at the great 
 number of horses and carriages standing on the 
 ground before the meeting-house. The space 
 they occupied consisted of several acres ; and, from 
 the best judgment I was able to form, there were 
 nearly 200 carriages of different descriptions, 
 mostly on springs, and more than double that 
 numbers of horses, exclusive of those used in the 
 carriages. The trifling expense at which horses 
 and carriages are kept in the country parts of Amer- 
 ica, enables even those in slender circumstances 
 to keep them, which certainly is a great privilege 
 in warm climates. After this meeting I took my 
 leave of several of my friends, never expecting to 
 see them again on this side of ihe grave, 
 
 I spent part of this afternoon with J. P. an agree- 
 able friend, who had devoted some years to the in- 
 struction of the fndians in letters and agriculture, 
 &c, and had been long amongst them in their settle- 
 ments. He related a variety of little anecdotes 
 
 •* 
 
200 TRAVELS IN ■ 
 
 concerning these untutored sons of the forest> char- 
 acteristic of their habits and manners, from which 
 it seemed, that the restraints and conftnement of 
 mechanics rnd labourers in civilized life, are con- 
 sidered by them as the greatest of hunrian niiseries ; 
 and that one nation should even wish to spread 
 their manufactures amongst other natioiis, and thus 
 become labourers to those for whom they have no 
 knowledge or regard, was, in their eyes, the height 
 ef human folly. 
 
 As^ the plan in which J. P. was engaged did 
 not profess to interfere with the religious concerns' 
 rif the Indians, they were not often a subject of 
 conversation j yet the Indians would sometimes' 
 observe, that they should have no objection to 
 attending Friends* meetings, if it were not too 
 long to sit doing nothing, without the privilege of 
 a pipe. Instances, however, have occured, anlongst 
 such untutored individuals, v. herein they huve evin- 
 ced conviction that the Great Spirit may be known 
 and worshipped in silence. 
 
 On my arrival at S. P.'s, I found his wife in a 
 poor state ot health ; and although considerably' 
 reduced by sickness, yet her natural lively and 
 cheerful disposition seemed to rise superior to her 
 bodily afRiction. She made respectful mention of 
 a number of European friends, who had visited 
 Her habiLation j particularly M. R, and J. W. ;. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 201 
 
 the manners of the latter, and her dialect, in broad 
 Irish, had entertained her very much. 
 
 While in this family, I could not avoid noticing 
 the innocence and simplicity of a little Negro 
 boy, named Sado ; and on my making some in- 
 quiry, Martha Painter gave an account to the 
 following effect: — Importing Negro slaves from 
 the coast of Africa, is contrary to the laws of the 
 United States, notwithstanding some of the 
 Southern States allow the keeping of slaves, and 
 it sometimes happens that an American ship is 
 detected transgressing the law, in which case both 
 ship and cargo are confiscated. Not long since, 
 two American ships with cargoes of slaves were 
 seized by a frigate belonging to the United States, 
 and brought to the Port of Philadelphia, where 
 they were both condemned j but the poor black 
 people on board were put under the care of the 
 Society instituted for the Abolition of the Slave 
 Trade, and were all provided with places as ser- 
 vants or apprentices. Amongst the latter was 
 little Sado, who was put out to S. P. Although 
 he was treated with the greatest tenderness, yet he 
 was often seen weeping at the recollection of his 
 near connexions. He said, that himself and sister 
 were on a visit at a relation's, and thiit, after the 
 family had retired to rest, they were suddenly 
 alarmed, in the dead of the night, by a company 
 of Man-ste^lers breaking into their habitation. 
 
202 ' TRAVELS IN 
 
 They were all carried ofF towards the Sea, where 
 they arrived at the end of three days, and were 
 confined until the vessel sailed. Sado's sister was 
 placed in a situation near S. P.'s, which afforded 
 them frequent opportunities of seeing each other- 
 Not long after this Negro boy had been brought 
 into S. P.'s family, he was taken ill of a bad fever ; 
 and, for a time, there appeared but little hopes of 
 his recovery, although the best medical help was 
 obtained, and every kindness and attention was 
 shewn to him. While he laid in this state, M. P. 
 inquired of him, if there v/as any thing he wished 
 to have, or if there was any thing she couM do 
 for him ; as they desired to do every thing in their 
 power to relieve him. In reply, he expressed his 
 thankfulness for their good intentions, but said, 
 ** There was nothing they could do that would 
 cure him; yet if he was at home with his mother, 
 she would soon make him well ;^ adding that " there 
 was a plant grew in his country, the leaves of 
 which she gathered, and poured hot water upon 
 them, covered his body all over with them, and it 
 always soon made him well.*' Martha desired him 
 to prescribe the plant, and they would endeavour to 
 procure it. He replied, " It v/as not to be had in 
 this country, for he had often looked for it in 
 
 f 
 
 Vain." 
 
 There being now scarcely any prospect of his 
 recovery, his mistress was desirous of administer- 
 
NORTH AMEHICA. 203 
 
 ing some religious consolation, and observed to 
 him, as he had always been a very good boy, she 
 had no doubt that if he died at this time, his 
 spirit would be admitted into a place of everlast- 
 ing rest and peace- On hearing this, he quickly 
 replied, " I know that if I die I shall be happy ; 
 for as soon as my body is dead, my spirit will fly 
 away to my father and mother, and sisters and 
 brothers, in Africa." The boy recovered. His 
 good conduct had gained him the favour and re- 
 spect of the whole family, and I have no doubt 
 that the care bestowed upon his education, will, 
 in due time, afford him a brighter prospect of a 
 future state, than that of returning to Africa, 
 
 I have sometimes turned my attention to the 
 orderly conduct, and pleasing dispositions of some 
 of these Black children, whom I have seen in 
 friends' families. On considering that they have 
 been violently torn from their near relatives and 
 friends, and exposed to all the horrors and sick- 
 ness of transportation in a slave ship ; I have 
 compared them with the kidnappers, and with the 
 owners, captains, and crews of slave ships, who 
 assume the name of Christians, and, with the 
 greatest self-complacency, make pretentions to 
 being governed by the precepts and example of 
 Christ i whilst they give the appellation of Hea- 
 thens and Infidels to these poor unoffending Negro 
 children, as a cover to their cruelty. In such a 
 
^4 TRAVELS IN 
 
 contemplation and comparison, the mind is over- 
 whelmed with sorrow, at the idea of the atrocity 
 and darkness in which human nature may be in- 
 volved, by the unbounded thirst of gold. 
 
 2ci Month, 20th, I left S. P.'s hospitable roof 
 accompanied by his brother-in-law J. T. The 
 ground I travelled over this day was the scene of 
 much bloodshed during the revolutionary war; it 
 being that part of the country where the bat- 
 tle of Brandywine was fought. My companion 
 was present at the time, with several other 
 friends, who were led forth by the dictates of hu- 
 manity, in order to lend some assistance to the 
 poor wounded and dying soldiers, that lay scat- 
 tered over ihe fields, through an extent of several 
 miles. On this occasion friends* meeting-house of 
 Birmingham was converted into an hospital, in 
 which many of the poor mangled creatures breathed 
 their last, and m here many more suffered the am- 
 putation of their limbs, with many other pain- 
 ful operations concomitant with the carnage of 
 war. Amongst those who ended their earthly 
 course in this meeting-house, were several officers, 
 who were buried in friends burying ground. One 
 of them, a near connexion of the Duke of North- 
 umberland, was a young man of the name of ' 
 Percy, whose amiable and exemphiry conduct 
 under his severe sufferings, had procured him the 
 
KORTH AMERICA. 205 
 
 particular regard and esteem of the friends about 
 him. The shocking situation of some they found 
 in the fields, would not bear description ; in others 
 who lay lifeless on the ground, it was some time 
 before any wound could be discovered, a single 
 bullet having passed through some vital part ; 
 others had the fleshy part of a leg or a thigh torn 
 to pieces by larger balls, and had sunk under the 
 loss of blood. 
 
 These scenes of horror were followed by others, 
 if possible, siill more revolting to human nature. 
 Those who have travelled much in America must 
 have observed the deep channels that are in many 
 places worn in the declivities of their fields, owing 
 to the great depth of soil and the heavy showers 
 to which they are subject in that country. It so 
 happened that the dead bodies of many of those who 
 were slain in this battle, were interred in these chan- 
 nels, and remained so for some time undisiurbed • 
 but, afterwards, some heavy rains falling, the earth 
 v/as washed away, and many of the dead bodies 
 were again exposed to view in a putrid state. 
 
 After spending an hour or two at West Chester 
 v/e came to S. J.'s, where we dined and spent the 
 rest of the day. At this friends hous, , General 
 Agnew made his head-quarters for some time 
 before the battle of C^ermantown, where he lost 
 his life. That part of the English army under his 
 
 S 
 
206 TRAVELS IN 
 
 command was encamped in S. J.'s fields and 
 orchard, round about the house. 
 
 2nd Months 21sU This morning I came to J. K.'s 
 habitation and spent a few hours with him in con- 
 versation respecting my friends in England, he 
 having lately returned from a visit to that nation, 
 
 ^d Months 2%d. I slept last night at W. T.'s, 
 and this day w&nt over J. T.'s est. te, where I visit- 
 ed the old family mansion, which was erected 
 on the first settlement of this country. In many 
 parts of America, and particularly in this neigh- 
 bourhood, it is the practice ot many farmers to 
 reserve about 15 or 20 acres of land for hay, 
 which they continue to mow from one generation 
 to another, many of them laying on but little or 
 no manure ; but taking the advantage of situation, 
 where the land may easily be irrigated or over- 
 spread with water from time to time, hy this 
 means they obtain heavy crops of grass without 
 the aid of manure, and thus supply themselves 
 with winter fodder at an easy expense. On in- 
 quiry of TV. T. and P. P. two very respectable 
 farmers and land-owners, they informed me that, 
 upon an average, they got about 2^ tons per acre 
 each year, upon this plan. The land usually 
 chosen for this purpose is not a dead flat or 
 marshy land, but commonly the two sides of a 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 207 
 
 narrow valley of easy ascent on each hand, having 
 a small stream running through the bottom. When 
 the land is to be watered, the stream at the upper 
 end of the valley is diverted from its natural bed, 
 and is conducted in narrow channels along each 
 side of the valley, on as high ground as the head 
 of the stream will admit ; and, by placing obstruc- 
 tions to the current of the streams, in different 
 parts of the artificial channels, the w ater continues 
 to trickle down ihe sides of the valley, so as plen- 
 tifully and regularly to water the roots of the 
 grass, but not in such quantities as to cover the 
 herbage. 
 
 In the course of the day we paid A. S. a visit, 
 and in the evening came to A. H.*s, another 
 brother-in-law to J. T. Here I met with one of 
 the oldest copies cf the English Bible I had ever 
 seen ; it was translated by Coverly, at a period 
 when the sacred volume was not dividi d into chap- 
 ters and verses, and both the language and the 
 type bore evident marks of great antiquity. The 
 word shoes I noticed was always spelled shoon, 
 and righteousness was always spelled rightwiseness, 
 and in many othei^ respects the language was so 
 very different from what it is at this day, as scarce- 
 ly, in many places to be like the same tongue. 
 
 During part of the revoUitionary contest, this 
 friend's house was the head-quarters of General 
 Stirhng, and, sometimes, consultations were held 
 
208 TRAVELS IN 
 
 here by the American General Officers, at which 
 Gener .i Washington attended. While the armies 
 lay in this neighbourhood, the farmers suffered 
 severt ly in their property j one instance of which 
 this friend mentioned to me, as descriptive of the 
 situation oi things amongst them ; — A near neigh- 
 bour who had a considerable stock of cheese on 
 band, which it was found needful to hide to pre- 
 vent being plundered of it, was in hopes an op- 
 portunity might occur when it might be sold at si 
 fair price, and to a regular customer; but it so 
 liappened. that some officers who were encamped 
 in the vicinity, had got some information respecting 
 this stock of cheese. One of them sent a servant 
 to the mistress of the housL-, who stated, that his 
 master was extremely anxious to taste one of her 
 cheeses, having been told that she made a better 
 article than any of her neighbours, and that not 
 having tasted any of a long time that v/as fit to 
 eat, he would freely give her a guinea for a small 
 one. However the servant was not able to ascer- 
 tain the fact, and of course returned without 
 accomplishing his errand. Upon this the officer 
 went himself to the house, and, after a deal of 
 persuasion, prevailed upon the mistress to furnish 
 him with two or three, for which he very freely 
 gave her a guinea each. 
 
 He had watched the mistress so closely, that he 
 discovered where the stock of cheese was laid up. 
 
NORTH AMiiRiCA. 209 
 
 without appearing to have observed whence she 
 brought the cheeses for him. After many expres- 
 sions of thankfulness, that he had been supplied 
 with such an excellent article, he returned to the 
 camp ; but the result was, that, next day, a party of 
 armed soldiers came to the house, and, after forci- 
 bly taking the money which the officer had paid the 
 day before, they went to the room where the 
 cheese was kept, and carried the whole off, with- 
 out paying any thing for it. Such is the morality 
 of war I 
 
 2^ Months 23d. We rode to W. J,'s house, 
 at West Grove, to breakfast ; and after attending 
 their meeting, spent the afternoon at his house, in 
 pleasant conversation with himself and his wife, 
 who is an agreeable cheerful woman. WJ. gave 
 me a little history of the emigration of his family 
 into this country, from Ireland : — Being in very 
 low circumstances, they were glad to put up with 
 what was then considered the worst lot of land in 
 that part ; and on their first coming here they were 
 visited by a friend who was already settled, and 
 had got his house built, and his land in a state of 
 cultivation. This friend being touched with com- 
 passion, went home and told his own family, how 
 deeply he felt for the poor Irish family, who, he 
 feared would never be able to get bread to sup- 
 port themselves, the land was so very indifferent ; 
 
 and taking out a bushel of malt, sent it to them to 
 
 S 2 
 
31^ TRAVELS IN 
 
 make a little beer to support their spirits under 
 their discouraging prospect. Such is the altera- 
 tion that has taken place, that, at this time, the land 
 which was then thought insufficient for the support 
 of one family, is now divided into several planta* 
 tions or farms, each of which is considered as 
 amply suffi ient for the support of a family in 
 cas., and even in affluence. One of .hese plan- 
 tatio s is that now beloiiging to W. J. and on 
 which he resides. 
 
 This night I lodged at P. P.'s. Here also I 
 met with a smart litde Negro boy, who had been 
 stolen from his parents in Africa, and was placed 
 m this faiiiily by the Abolition Socieiy. He had 
 the character of being a boy of a bright capacity ; 
 and although not verv comuni ative to his mas- 
 ter and mistress, he was open and free with the 
 children of the family, and would often, by the 
 fireside in the winter evenings, recite to them the 
 mournful sory of his being made captive ; with 
 many shocking circumstan.es that attended his 
 transportation in the slave ship ; from which he was 
 liberated by an American ship of war. 
 
 After breakfast I set out for Mtrion, in corn- 
 pan) with 1. J. and in my way passed by the front 
 of Westc wn school. 1 his school is managed iipon 
 a plan, somewhat similar to that at Ackwordi, but 
 with this difference, that the children of friends in 
 
NORTH AMEHICA, 211 
 
 affluent circumstances are not excluded. The 
 number of scholars in the house is generally 
 about 200, including boys and girls. 
 
 In the evening I came to Merion where I found 
 letters from my family and friends, as late as the 
 Srth of 12tii Month; which contained the pleasing 
 account of their being a'l well. 
 
 3d Month, 2i7. Being the first of the week I 
 attended meeting in the forenoon, and spent the 
 evening at H. B.'s, where I had the company of 
 his father and mother, and R. J. ; the latter being 
 far aJvinced in years, of an active lively disposi- 
 tion, and having a retentive memory, would fre- 
 quently favour me with little anecdotes of ihe tirst 
 settlers in the neighbourhood, which he had re- 
 ceived from the parties themselves, in the early 
 pa t of his life. Amongst the rest he related a 
 litde story which he had heard from an ancient 
 frie.id at whose house he had lodged, of the name 
 of ilcbecca Wood. When a little girl she u?ed 
 sometimes lo wa k from Derby, where she re:.ided, 
 to Haverford meeting, the distance of a few miles. 
 One day as she was walking along, she was over- 
 tatien by a friend on horseback, who proved to be 
 William Penn. On coming up with her he in- 
 quired where she was going ; and on her iniorin- 
 in.; him, he, with his usual good nature, desired 
 her to get up behind him ; and, bringing his horse 
 
213 , TRAVELS IN 
 
 to a convenient place, she mounted, and so rode 
 away upon the bare back. Being without shoes 
 or stockings, her bare legs and feet hung dangling 
 by the side of the governor's horse. Although 
 William Penn was at this time both governor 
 and proprietor, he did not think it beneath him 
 thus to help along a poor bare footed girl on her 
 way to meeting i and notwithstanding the maxims 
 and customs of the world, these little kind offices 
 to those in low stations in life, were so far from 
 lowering him in the estimation of those he was 
 appointed to govern, that there perhaps never was 
 a governor, who stood higher in the opinion of 
 those governed by him, than William Pean did. 
 
 In repeating this anecdote, the old friend gene* 
 rally concluded her story with the observation, that, 
 " there were no such governors novv-a-days.'' 
 
 Sd Months 5th, I had the company of O. and 
 J. J. the latter of whom related to nie a tran- 
 saction of his, when but about 14 years of age, 
 which manifested a considerable degree of firm- 
 ness in one so young. At the time of the revolu- 
 tion, a neighbour was conaemned to death for his 
 attachment to the Eng.ish government. Under 
 these melancholy circumstances, the near connex* 
 ions of the sufferer, were anxious that the body of 
 their unhappy relative, should be decently interred 
 in the fanciUy burying ground at Merion j but con- 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 213 
 
 siderlng to what pitch of indignation the minds 
 of thj people were raised against him, it appeared 
 to be a very hazardous task to take the body from 
 the place of execution, surrounded by th.^ great 
 crowd of spectators who were there assembled, to 
 be witnesses of the last struggles of their devoted 
 countryman. Hov/ever, J. J. although but a boy, 
 undertook the task, and proceeded through the 
 multitude, without any attendant, went up to the 
 executioner, and demanding the body, brought it 
 off in a hearse, himself being the driver ; and con- 
 ducted it safely to the relatives of the deceased. 
 His youth and the singularity of the circumstance, 
 seemed to command the respect of the multitude. 
 
 2d Month, Sth, I came from Philadelphia to 
 jVIerion. The sun now having considerable power, 
 I was struck with the loud chirping noise, that 
 issued from every little pond or pool of water, as 
 I passed along, which, I w^as informed, proceeded 
 from a species of frog that inhabits those places, 
 and is commonly the first of the animal creation 
 to usher in the spring. The chirping of these 
 frogs in the spring, and of the tree-frog in sum- 
 mer, form no inconsiderable part of the rural 
 sounds we are accustomed to hear in America ; 
 to which might be added the notes of various other 
 kinds of frogs ; particu'arly of the deep toned bull 
 frog, whi:h in a still summer's evening, when the 
 wind has been favourable, I have sometimes heard 
 
214 TRAVELS IN 
 
 at the distance of more than a mile. Although 
 these sounds are strange to an English ear, vet 
 there is something in them which is far from be- 
 ing unpleasant. 
 
 3d Months 16th. In the forenoon I attended 
 Menon meeting, and spent the atternoon at R. j.'s, 
 who entertained me with an account of the man- 
 ner in which Phineas Pemberton and his wife, 
 first became acquainted with each other ; and they 
 being the first of that family who came to America, 
 the story was interesting: — Phineas, when a boy, 
 was an apprentice to a groc^-r in Manchester, and 
 I believe the house in which he lived is still stand- 
 ing, as J. P. one of his descendants, on h.s late visit 
 to England, had the curiosity to take a look at it, 
 when in that neighbourhood. It happened, on a 
 market-day, that whilst Phineas was serving ilie 
 customers, there came in a country friend and his 
 daughter, of the name of Harrison, to purchase 
 groceries for the family : and as they waited to be 
 served, the daughter, who was but a litde girl, 
 employed herself in eating cherries out of a small 
 basket she had brought with her. As soon as 
 Phineas was at libertv, he furnished the friend and 
 his daughter with the groceries they wanted ; and 
 the little giri havi; g some of her cheirie^. to 
 spare, gave them to Phineas. Pleased with her 
 genero&ity, he insisted upon her taking a paper of 
 
NORTH AMKBICA. 215 
 
 raisins in return. From this trifling circumstance, 
 an attachment originated which ended but with 
 their lives. They were united in marriage whtn 
 of a suitable age i soon after which they emigrated 
 to America, and afterwards became the heaus of 
 one of the most respectable families in Philadtl- 
 phia. The young woman's father also went over 
 to America with them. 
 
 In recurring to the little story of Phineas Pem- 
 berton, we have an example of the instability of 
 things in this changing scene. It is but a very 
 few years pv,st| that several branches of this family, 
 seemed to stand foremost in rank both in the so- 
 ciety, and in the American world in general; and 
 there was every probability that thr name and 
 family might continue numerous and respectable 
 for many generations. But, if I recollect right, at 
 the time I am writing, James Pemberton, who is 
 now about 84 years of age, is the only remaining 
 branch of the family who bears the name ; and if 
 he should be the last, it may be truly said, that the 
 sun ef the family has gone down in brightness.^ 
 
 3d Months 25th, I came to Philadelphia, where 
 I supped and spent the evening at John Elliott's, 
 an ancient valuable friend, a native of Leicester. 
 
 * See Note, page 46. 
 
'216 TRAVELS IN 
 
 He left England In early life, along with his pa- 
 rents, who, having imbibed favourable sentiments 
 of America, had bidden a final farewtll to their 
 native land. In the recollection of this friend, I 
 have often thought that the general tenor of his 
 life and conversation, possessed as much of what 
 I should call sterling Christianity, as I have ever 
 observed in any other man. In him were seen the 
 innocence and simplicity of a child, although he 
 was a man of considerable literary attainments and 
 reputation in the world. Through life he *had 
 been an active and able advocate of the enslaved 
 Africans ; and, though not backward in giving a 
 sentiment on the passing public transactions of the 
 day, he was far from being a busy-body in matters 
 of this kind ; and such was the religious subjection 
 into which his mind was brought, tha^, in lamenting 
 or approving the measures of those in authority, 
 it was done with a meekness and calmness, which 
 evinces that he was biassed by no narrow, party 
 spirit in the observations he made ; but that they 
 were the effusions of a heart " which felt and 
 cared for all." Being an industrious man, and suc- 
 cessful in business, he had the means as well as 
 the inclination of serving his friends and strangers. 
 Frequent opportunities of the latter offered in this 
 city, where emigrants from almost every nation 
 in Europe, are often arriving, - 
 
NORTH AMEllICA. 21?' 
 
 od Mojithy 26 thy I was accompanied by John 
 Parish to A W.'s, at whose house we supped and 
 spent the evening. A. W. some years since, ac- 
 companied J. P. on a religious visit to friends at 
 Pyrmont, and was with him in that place when he 
 departed this life, in the assurance of a happy 
 eternity. On A. W.'s return, he had to pass 
 through a part of the country occupied by the 
 allied army, then engaged in its operat'ons against 
 France. He was seized and taken before the 
 commanding officer, who took great oflence at his 
 plain language, and not taking off his hat ; and, 
 after a good deal of abusive language, struck liim 
 to the ground. Afterwards, when A. W. had time 
 given him to explain who and what he was, the 
 General appeared extremely ashamed of his con- 
 duct, and extorted a promise from him, that he 
 would not expose him on account of this cruel and 
 unworthy behaviour towards a peaceable stranger. 
 For this reason, in repeating the story, he always 
 avoided giving the name of the General. 
 
 After passing the limits of the German lines, 
 he soon came within those of the French army, 
 commanded by General Moreau, and was taken 
 before him by some of the soldiers on the out- 
 posts ; but here he was treated with great kind- 
 ness, and a passport was given him, which enabled 
 him to pursue his iourney without further molesta^ 
 
 tion. About the time that I am writing, General 
 
 1 
 
218 TRAVELS IN 
 
 Moreau being exiled to America by the French 
 Emperor, A. W. has had an opportunity of ac- 
 knowledging, and of returning his kindness. The 
 General has taken up his residence about 20 miles 
 from Philadelphia, having his wife and family 
 with him. Several friends paid a good deal of 
 attention to them, on account of his humane and 
 generous conduct. Thus thi'j little act of genero- 
 sity to an unprotected stranger, proved the cause of 
 many kind attentions to himself and family, when 
 the scene was changed, and when he, from bemg a 
 victorious Genv ral, commanding a powerful army, 
 was become an exile in a foreign land. This little 
 history affords a useful lesson to men in power. 
 
 ^d Months 27thy was employed in writing to my 
 family and friends in England : and, with my let- 
 ters I forwarded a number of John Parish's 
 pamphlets on the Slave Trade, at the author's 
 request. 
 
 od Months 29th, I supped and spent the even- 
 ing at R. B.'s, at Merion, and observed in his 
 yard a Negro of an interesting countenance. Onj 
 inquiring who he was, H. B. informed me, that a 
 few da) s ago the poor man came up from Dela- 
 ware State, and, at the recommendation of his 
 brother, H. B. had taken him into his family for 
 protection. At the same time he related to me the 
 foUovring narrative : — Some time since the master 
 
 :' 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 219 
 
 of this black slave died, leaving behind him 
 a widow, and one son, a profligate young man. 
 As the master lay on his death-bed, he called 
 this faithful slave to him, and taking him by the 
 hand, told him that he felt his end was fast ap- 
 proaching, and that his mistress would have little 
 to depend upon for her support, except what she 
 might be able to make of his labour ; and there- 
 fore he begged that he would continue to be faith- 
 ful to her, after the master should be laid in the 
 silent grave. In a very short time the master 
 died, and the slave continued his services to his 
 mistress, and much to her satisfaction ; enabling 
 her, for several years, to live comfortably, and also 
 to administer to the wants of her profligate son ; 
 so thit, under a grateful sense of his worth, she 
 determined to make this black man free, and also 
 his family, consisting of a wife and three children. 
 A writing was accordingly drawn up, and duly- 
 executed, wh; reby they were all liberated ; and 
 the happiness of this family, under these circum- 
 stances, may be more easily conceived than de- 
 scribed. II heir industry and sobrieiy, manifested 
 whilst in bondage, now had its full eff'ect ; and all 
 went on happdy and comfortably, until the profli- 
 gate son, before mentioned, who had by idleness 
 and drunkenness reduced himself to extreme ne- 
 cessitv, . onceived the cruel plan of invalidating 
 the indenture which his mother had executed, to 
 
22G TiiAvriLs IK 
 
 give this worthy Negro family their liberty ; and 
 actaally sold the father, mother, and the three 
 children, to a company of Georgia slave dealers, 
 who were th n in the neighbourhood. They being 
 eonscious that the young man had no right thus 
 IG sell the family, had determined to take them 
 itway in the dead of the night, to preclude the pos- 
 sibility of applying to any magistrate for pro- 
 tection." However, the N« gro had got some 
 Intim tion of what was going forward, and, in 
 consequ.nce, kept loaded fire arms in bis house, 
 being deterndned to shoot any person who should 
 attempt to break into his habitation. These pre- 
 cautions being known to the slave dealers, they, 
 for some time, did not venture to molest him 
 but he ai d his wife being soon wearied with liv- 
 ing in this state of anxious suspence, consul ed a 
 fellow Negro, in whom they placed confidence, as 
 to their best method of proceeding ; and it was 
 i?oncluded that the whole familv should leave that 
 part of the country, and settle in Pennsylvania, as 
 soon as possible J where they would be out of the 
 reach of the slave dealers. No sooner was this 
 determination come to, than their perfidious 
 iriend, for the sake of a trifling reward, went to 
 the Georgia slave traders, to betray the whole 
 family into their hands ; and, in the middle of the 
 night, they were seized, bound, and forcibly taken 
 from their comfortable hal)itation, in order to be 
 put on board a sma 1 sloop which lay in the river,. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 221 
 
 near at hand. On coming near the river, the 
 poor black man, who had been placed on horse- 
 back, behind one of these Georgia men, suddenly 
 broke loose, and leaping from the horse, plunged 
 headlong into the river, which he quickly swam 
 across, and, getting into the woods, escaped from 
 his inhuman pursuers. On this occasion, the agi- 
 tation of the poor wife and children was beyond 
 expression ; and to silence the shrieks and cries of 
 this miserable family, these unprincipled men beat 
 them unmercifully ; and the last which the poor 
 Negro man saw of this scene, as he fled into the 
 woods, was their be ating his wife upon the head, 
 in the most brutal manner. I'o a person who has 
 not been an eye-witness to such scenes, it may ap- 
 pear incredible that transactions of so attrocious 
 nature, could occur under a form of government 
 like that of the United States ; but the slavery of 
 the Negroes having long since been introduced, 
 the evil consequences resulting from it have not 
 vet been rooted out of the Southern States ; where 
 a warm climate seems to have enervated both the 
 bodies and the minds of the white inhabitants. It 
 is, however, to the credit of the people of Fennsyl- 
 vania, and the States to the eastward and north- 
 ward of them, that almost every thing in their 
 power has been done, to induce their southern 
 neighbours to relinquish the infamous, and de- 
 basing system of persimal slavery ; and there can 
 
 be scarcely a doubt, if they persevere in their 
 
 T 2 
 
222 TRAVELS IN 
 
 honourable endeavours, that they will, in the end, 
 be crowned with success. 
 
 In conversation this evening with Samuel Bryant, 
 a son of the Judge of that name, he mentioned 
 that Doctor Franklin was an intimate friend of his 
 fathers', and that in consequence there was a fre- 
 quent intercourse between the two families. 
 Amongst a number of anecdotes relating to the 
 Doctor, he recited one, respecting his religious 
 opinions, which appeared to me worth preserving : 
 It is as follows : — At the time the Doctor lay 
 upon his death-bed, he was visited by a young man 
 who had a great respect for his judgment in all 
 things ; and having entertained doubts in his own 
 mind, as to the truth of the scriptures, he thought 
 that this awful period, afforded a suitable oppor- 
 tunity of consulting the Doctor on this important 
 subject. Accordingly he introduced it in a solemn 
 weighty manner, inquiring of the Doctor what 
 were his sentiments as to the truth of the scriptures. 
 'On the question being put, although he was in a 
 very weak state and near his close, he replied, 
 *' Young man I my advice to you is, that you culti- 
 vate an acquaintance with, and a firm belief in the 
 Holy Scriptures J this is your certain interest^" 
 
N0RTH AMERICA. 223 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 TVoodside.'-^Jccount of Ca/itain H. — 4 Substitute for 
 
 Soa/i. Yearly Meeting- at F/iiladel/ihia. — Merion 
 
 Meeting- House. — Viol€?it Temfiest. — Dreadful Mas- 
 sacre of the Cotiestoga Ivdiaris. 
 
 2dofA>th Months 1806. I spent this evening at 
 O. J,'s country house, in the vicinity of Merion. 
 It is a large handsome building, beautifully situ- 
 ated, and commanding a fine prospect of the 
 Delaware for many miles below Philadelphia. 
 The farm is under the direction of a free Negro, 
 and appears to be well managed. 
 
 6^/2 ofUh Month, I attended Merion meeting, 
 and spent the afternoon at WooJside. This is a 
 beautiful spot, commanding a fine view of Phila- 
 delphia and of the country round it, although 
 about 5 or 6 miles distant from that city. This 
 was formerly the residence of Governor Mifflin. 
 It has since been much improved and beautified, 
 at considerable expense by the present proprietor 
 G. A. Yet one of the greatest ornaments about 
 the house, is his worthy father-in-law, John Parish. 
 Though far advanced in life, and grown old in his 
 services to the Negroes and Indians, whose steady 
 advocate he has been, along series of years, yet his 
 conversation is still as lively and interesting as that 
 of any young person* In the course of the after* 
 
224. TRAVELS IN 
 
 noon he read over several communications he had 
 received from both Blacks and Indians : some of 
 which were highly interesting, 
 
 lOth of4<th Month, Amongst those of my ac- 
 quaintance in Philadelphia, at whose houses I 
 have been generously entertained, was Captain H. 
 whom I had seen at Liverpool. I mention his 
 name in this place, to introduce an account of a 
 remarkable preservation which he experienced not 
 long ago, attended with some circumstances ge- 
 nerally known in Philadelphia:- — He had been for 
 some time commander of a ship in the East India 
 trade, and had acquitted himself so much to the 
 satisfaction of his employers, that he was engaged 
 to go oiit again in that trade, as commander of the 
 Hindbstan, in which very large property was em- 
 barked. The wuole management of the outfit 
 had been committed to his care, and every thing 
 being made ready for the voyage, the vessel was 
 on the point of sailing. At this period he found 
 his mind so oppressed at the prospect of the 
 voyage? that he felt himself under the necessity of 
 requesting the owners of the ship, to liberate him 
 from his engagement of taking the command ; but 
 could assign no other reason than the oppression 
 on his mmd at the prospect of the voyage before 
 him ; observing, that he had no apprehension the 
 shin would not prosecute her voyage ia safety. 
 He further stated, that as far as coneernecl mmself, 
 
NORTH AMEKICA. 2t?5 
 
 he could noi feel satisfied to take the command of 
 her ; but considering his engagements, he was de- 
 termined to fulfil them as far as lay in his power, 
 if it was insisted upon. 
 
 The owners, at firsts seemed disposed to enforce 
 his compliance ; yet, after a little time of reflection 
 they gave up the point, there being several well- 
 qualified Captains ready to supply his place. The 
 command of an Indiaman is a situation eagerly 
 sought after, being considered the most profitable 
 of any in the commercial line, as it affords many 
 opportunities of making larger pre fits than any 
 other trade. Another Captain was accordingly 
 appointed in the place of Captain H. and the Hin- 
 dostan left Philadelphia, in appearance as fine^ a 
 ship as had of late sailed from that port; but she 
 was never heard of after she left the Delaware. 
 
 Thus was Captain H. preserved to his family 
 and friends, by duly attending to those urgent 
 though incomprehensible impressions upon his 
 mind. Some years afterwards he brouglit over 
 M. R. to England, on her return from her last 
 visit to America. 
 
 Ath Months 14?/^, I went to Philadelphia, whence 
 I transmitted some letters to my friends in Fng, 
 land by way of New- York ; a-d, in the aftern on, 
 in company with R. E. we rode over to J. H.'s, and 
 
226 TRAVELS IN 
 
 supped and spent the evening at his house on the 
 banks of the Schuylkill ; where he has a productive 
 farm, which appears to be well managed. The 
 road up to the house was planted on each side 
 with Engli- h quicksets, which appeared to thrive 
 better than any I had seen in this country, I un- 
 derstand that the winters here are generally too 
 sharp for them, so that they rarely answer as a fence. 
 However the native American thorn m^kes a good 
 hedge; and, in some parts of the Delaware State, 
 I have seen it used to considerable advancac^e. It 
 is a much greater ornament to a plantation, than 
 either the common worm fence, or that of the posts 
 and rails which generally prevails throughout the 
 United States. I'he farmers o- ject to hedges in 
 general, • llegiug that they harbour birds and ver- 
 min of different kinds, which injure the crops. 
 
 ^th Month, 15th, 16th, and 17th, were spent at 
 Merion and in its neighbourhood. In the economy 
 of a family in this country, I frequent y observed 
 a practice well worthy of imiiation, where soap is 
 an expensive article, in many families it is the 
 custom to preserve the bones that are collected in 
 the kit :hen after a meal. When a sufficient quan- 
 tity is obtained, they are put into a pan provided 
 for the purpose, and some ley, made from wood 
 ashes, is poui ed upon them. 1 he pan being placed 
 near the fire, it the ley is of sufficient strength to 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 227 
 
 float an egg, it soon e:5ttracts all the fat ; and dis- 
 solves the gristly parts in the course of a day or two. 
 The bones are then taken out, and the liquor is 
 left near the fire, and kept to a gentle boiling heat, 
 or near it, anotter day or two ; or until the liquor 
 has attained a ropy consistence. It will then 
 answer all the purposes of soap ; and, if a proper 
 quantity of coinmon salt be added, it hardens and 
 becomes real soap. Many families in America 
 never use any other kind. 
 
 4th Months 21st, I came to Philadelphia, and 
 attended the first sitting of the yearly meeting, 
 which began at ten o'clock this morning. The 
 number of friends attending was great ; but it 
 would be difficult to form a correct estimate of the 
 whole ; yet I suppose there were not less than two 
 thousand men friends present. One of the door- 
 keepers at Arch-street meeting-house, where the 
 women friends assembled to transact their busi- 
 ness, had the curiosity to count th'^m as they came 
 out; and found that upwards of nineteen hundred 
 females had been assembled there. After open- 
 ing the meeting, friends proceeded to answer the 
 queries, and went through seven of them. It 
 was pleasant to observe that a large proportion of 
 those who attended were } oung persons ; to whom 
 many instructive observations were made. After 
 an agreeable sitting of about two hours, the meet- 
 ing adjourned until the afternoon. Between meet- 
 
228 TRAVELS IN 
 
 ings I dined and spent on hour two very plea» 
 santly at John Elliott's, -where I had the company 
 of many friends from different parts of the Con- 
 tinent of America. 
 
 In the afternoon I attended the second sitting 
 of the yearly meeting; when the answers to the 
 remaining queries were read ; and several reports 
 respecting the establishment of schools, and the 
 instruction of the native Indians, where brought in 
 and taken into consideration. 
 
 Ath Month^ 22d, At nine o'clock I attended 
 the third sitting of the yearly meeting. After ap- 
 pointing a committee to hear and judge of an 
 appeal, the general epistle from the yearly meeting 
 in London was read ; and six thousand copies of 
 it were ordered to be printed and distributed 
 through the inferior meetings. Epistles from the 
 different yearly meetings on this continent were 
 also read. 
 
 After meeting I dined at David Bacon's, in 
 company with H. J. a friend who had devoted 
 some years to the instruction of the Indians, in the 
 useful arts of civilized life, during v/hich time he 
 dwelt amongst them on the banks of the Allegany 
 river. From the conversation I had with this 
 friend, as well as with others who had given up 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 229 
 
 4imch of their time to the same purpose, It will 
 probably be a work of time, requiring a long 
 exercise of patience and perseverance, before the 
 Indians can be brought into a state of complete 
 civilization. It has often appeared to me that 
 there is a natural wildness and quickness in them, 
 which all the pains or labour of the well-disposed 
 white inhabitants will find it difficult to subdue. 
 However, there are different degrees of stability 
 and prudential care amongst these people, in their 
 natural state ; many amongst them paying some 
 attention to agricultural pursuits, and, in summer, 
 providing for the wants of winter ; whilst others 
 disclaim all thouglit or care for the future ; and 
 hold in contempt all their neighbours, who depend 
 on any other means for support than hunting* 
 Although friends reside amongst them, they are 
 still, at certain times, in the practice of sacrificing 
 to idols of their own carving, some of which were 
 in the form of an Indian warrior of a gigantic 
 stature ; to whom they sacrificed dogs, 8iC. 
 Notwithstanding this, they hold a tradition that 
 the universe was created, and is supported, by an 
 all-powerful Being, whom they call the Great 
 Spirit ; whose influence is felt in every human 
 breast, approving for good, and reproving for evil. 
 
 22</ of^^th Month, At three o'clock in the after- 
 noon of this day we met again, when the minutes 
 
 of the me,eting for sufferings were read, the consi- 
 
 U 
 
iJoU TRAVELS IN 
 
 deration of which occupied the remaining part of 
 this fourth sitting, 
 
 Ath Months 2Zd, We met again this morning 
 at nine o'clock, it being the fifth sitting; when 
 the state of the society, as set forth in the 
 answers to the queries, was taken into considera- 
 tion, and much advice was given on the subject of 
 the deficiences that appeared. 
 
 We met again at three o'clock, it being the 
 sixth sitting; when the report of the state of 
 West-Town school was read, and several subjects 
 relating to that institution were considered. 
 
 4th Month, 24//2. This forenoon, meetings foi» 
 worship were held at the three different meeting- 
 houses in the city. In the afternoon, at three 
 o'clock, the yearly meeting resumed its business, 
 this being the seventh sitting. 
 
 A report from the Committee on Indian Affairs 
 was brought in and read, with a statement of the 
 receipts and expenditure of the committee, by which 
 it appeared that there remained a balance in the 
 hands of the treasurer, of about 20001. currency ; a 
 part of which sum was ordered to be handed to the 
 Delaware tribe of Indians, whose forefathers had 
 -shown great kindness to Friends, on their first | 
 landing in this country; the recollection of which 
 Jiad great weight on Friends' minds at this time, in 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 23J 
 
 the distribution of this money. Thus the good 
 deeds of the forefathers of this tribe of Indians, 
 were visited upon their children's children, some 
 of whom stood in great need of the assistance now 
 afforded, and to whom it would be very useful in 
 providing husbandry utensils, &c. &c. I observed 
 that friends were generally careful not to hand 
 their presents in money; but preferred sending 
 them various kinds of tools both for husbandry 
 and carpenters' work; and they would also, on 
 some occasions, hire a workman to put them in a 
 way of using their tools. 
 
 After the close of this sitting, a friend informed 
 2ne that he had a prospect of removing to the 
 Ohio, and shewed me two certificates of lands he 
 had purchased in that State, said to be of excel- 
 lent quality, for which he engaged to give lis. 3d. 
 per acre, to be paid by instalments at two, three, 
 and four years. 'I'he number of friends who have 
 emigrated into that State, in the course of the last 
 few years, is said to exceed 800 families ; and their 
 increase still continued to be so great, that the 
 establishment of a new yearly meeting in those 
 parts, began to be seriously thought of. 
 
 Ath Months %5th, I attended the eighth sitting 
 of the yearly meeting, which began at ten o'clock 
 this morning, and the whole of it was employed 
 
S5"2 • TRAVELS IJSi 
 
 in the consideration of the report brought in Liv 
 the committee appointed to revise the discipline. 
 
 In the afternoon we met again, at three o'^clock, 
 being the ninth sitting, and proceeded in the con- 
 sideration of the report of the committee on the 
 revision of the discipline. 
 
 Ath Months 2Qth, We met again at nine o'clock, 
 being the tenth sitting. Friends were occupied 
 during the whole time on the revision of the dis« 
 cipline, but chiefly on the subject of using and 
 dealing in spiritous liquors, and of friends keeping 
 inns. Much was said to discourage the practice, 
 nn account of the exposed situation of the families 
 of those engaged in this line of business. On the 
 other hand, it appeared to some, that were all 
 inns in the hands of steady, consistent friends, it 
 would be a great blessing to any country, and 
 would hav^e a t^^ndency considerably to check that 
 txjrrent of profligacy and dissipation, which too 
 generally prevails in inns and taverns. 
 
 We met again at three o'clock in the afternoon, 
 it being the eleventh sitting ; when the meeting 
 proceeded in its deliberations on the revision of 
 the discipline. 
 
 Ath Month, 27th. The first day of the week I 
 attended the North Meeting in the forenoon ; and 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 233 
 
 in the afternoon, that held in Market-street. At 
 the latter, R. M. a friend from the neighbour- 
 hood of New- York, in the course of his testimony, 
 explained the difference between the terms wis- 
 dom and knowledge ; the former embracing not 
 only the knowledge of what is right, but also the 
 practice of it ; for this only, he said, was true 
 wisdom. On the other hand, how many, alas ! 
 are possesssed of the knowledge of what is right 
 and good, but fall short in firmness and integrity 
 to uphold and practice it. This, he said, was 
 knowledge, but not wisdom. 
 
 Ath Months 28th, This morning, at nine o'clock, 
 I attended the twelfth sitting of the yearly meet- 
 ing ; the fore part of which was occupied in the 
 further discussion of the report of the committee 
 , on the revision of the discipline ; and some altera- 
 tions were finally agreed upon, and others were 
 left for farther consideration next year. 
 
 The meeting then proceeded to the reading 
 and consideration of several epistles addressed to 
 different yearly meetings on this continent ; and also 
 of one to the yearly meeting in London ; which, 
 with some small alterations, were approved and 
 adopted. After a solemn pause, and a prayer to 
 the Divine Being, the meeting concluded its twelftk 
 gittingj and the last for this year. 
 
^S4 TRAVELS liX 
 
 Sth Month, 2d, I attended Merion week-day 
 meeting, and spent the afternoon pleasantly in 
 company with R. J. and H, B. whom I assisted 
 in planting several paper-mulberry trees, on the 
 vacant ground near the meeting-house, which were 
 intended to be a shade for friends' horses in the 
 summer seasor. There is generally a plot of 
 ground round the country meeting-houses in 
 America, sometimes of several acres, planted with 
 shady trees, under which the horses and carriages 
 of friends stand, during meeting time, and which 
 forms a most interesting piece of scenery. 
 
 5th Mouthy 3d. At Merion I this day received 
 letters from my wife and children dated the 14th 
 of 2d Month, giving accounts of their welfare. 
 Persons who have never removed from their 
 native country, can hardly conceive the pleasure 
 that is derived from the correspondence of near 
 connexions when separated from them in a distant 
 land. 
 
 Sth Monthy 4th, I attended Merion meeting it 
 being 1st duy, and afterwards had the company of 
 R. S. and A. K. of Philadelphia to dinner. These 
 two young men were both of them descendants of 
 German parents who had left their native country, 
 in order to enjoy the blessings of religious liberty 
 m this land ; a privilege which neither the Em- 
 peror, nor the petty Princes of Germany, had 
 *:he gogd sense or policy to allow. 
 
N6RTH AMERICA. 2^5 
 
 Sth Months 9th, This day was remarkably 
 tempestuous ; and in the evening there was so 
 gi*eat a light over the cities of Philadelphia and 
 Chester, that they appeared to be on fire j and 
 next morning we received accounts, that in Phi- 
 ladelphia 30 houses had been burnt down in a 
 central part of the city, and that in Chester two 
 large ships w^^re burnt. Within about two miles 
 of my lodgings the same evening, a powder mill 
 was blown up, and one person who had the manage- 
 of it, lost his life by the explosion. Not many 
 days before the accident, being well acquainted 
 with the man, I had some conversation with him 
 on the danger of his occupation ; but the great 
 wages he received outweighed all apprehensions of 
 his danger, and he seemed to have made up his 
 mind to continue the emplo5'ment, notwithstand- 
 ing he had before been blown up, and narrowly 
 escaped destruction, with the loss of one eye, and 
 the use of several of his fingers. So many dread- 
 ful accidents happening around us at the time 
 called forth serious and awful reflections. 
 
 3th Mouthy 10th, Being invited by one of the 
 proprietors, I accompanied him to the ruins of the 
 powder mill which was yesterday destroyed; when 
 i saw the remains of the poor man, who had lost 
 his life by the explosion. His whole appearance 
 was too shocking to be described. The afflicted 
 
TRAVELS IN 
 
 widow, who was a young woman, and several 
 small children, stood weeping round him. 
 
 5th Mouthy \7th. This afternoon I spent at 
 R. J.'s. Whilst here, a drove of cows passed by on 
 their way to Philadelphia market ; one of them a 
 handsome looking heifer, with a fine calf by her 
 side, attracting R. J.'s attention, he bought them 
 both for 31. 12s. 
 
 5th Months 27th, I had the company of R. J. 
 to tea this afternoon, who presented me with an 
 account of a most extraordinary persecution that 
 was carried on in the year 1763, against the last re- 
 maining part of a particular tribe of Indians. 
 This tribe, from their residing at Conestoga, were 
 called the Conestoga Indians. On the first arrival 
 of the English in Pennsylvania, they sent messengers 
 to welcome them, with presents of venison, corn, 
 and skins ; and entered into a treaty of friendship 
 with William Penn. This treaty hud been since 
 frequently confirmed, and had never been violated, 
 either on the part of the Indians or the English, 
 until the time tiiat these cruel transactions took 
 place. It has always been observed that Indians, 
 settled in the neighbourhood of white people, con- 
 tinually diminish ; and this tribe had dwindled 
 away till there remained in the village no more 
 than seven men, five women, and eight children. 
 Of these, Shebeas, who was i\ very old man^ !:iad 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 23/ 
 
 assisted at the treaty with William Penn in the 
 year 1701, had ever since continued a faithful 
 friend of the English, and bore the character of 
 an cxceeding'y good man ; for, considering his 
 cxtraciion, he was naturally of a most kind and 
 benevolent temper. This little remnant of Indians 
 were in the constant practice of addressing every 
 new Governor of the Province, and they ac- 
 cordingly present'^d an address to John Penn, a 
 new Governor, on his arrival ; assuring him of their 
 fidelity, and praying for a continuance of that 
 favour and protection they had hitherto experienced. 
 
 This address was scarcely presented, when the 
 horrible catastrophe occurred, which I am about to 
 relate. In the townships of Paxton and Done- 
 gal, in the county of Lancaster, a number of peo- 
 ple, actuated by the wildest religious enthusiasm, 
 in which they were encouraged by some furious 
 zealots amongst their preachers, conceived the 
 notion that they ought to extirpate the heathen 
 from the earth, as Joshua did some nations of old ; 
 that they themselves, as Saints, might possess the 
 land, i ired with this dreadlul kind of zeal, on 
 the 14th of the 12th Month, 1763, 57 men well 
 mounted, and armed with firelocks, hatchets, and 
 hangers, came down from th:; two before-mentioned 
 townships, and, surrounding the little Indian vil- 
 lage at dawn of day, broke in upon the inhabitants 
 all at once, and fired upon, stabbed, and hewed in 
 
1 
 
 336 Travels lU 
 
 pieces the poor defenceless creatures who hap- 
 pened to be in their huts; among them the good 
 old Shebeas was hewed in pieces in his bed. The 
 daughter of the venerable Shebeas, who for several 
 years past had devoted her time to waiting upon 
 her beloved father, was also slain* After taking 
 off the scalps of those who were thus murdered, and 
 setting fire to the village, the murderers mounted 
 their horses and rode away; disappointed in not 
 having found ail the Indians at home, 14 out of the 
 20 being absent. It is not, perhaps in the power of 
 language to express the feelings of the remaining 
 14 Indians, some of whom were little children, on 
 iheir return to the village^ when they beheld the 
 mangled remains of their near and dear connexions, 
 and saw their habitations a heap of smokuig ruins* 
 
 The Magistrates of Lancaster, hearing of what 
 had past, came over and took the survivors under 
 their protection, doing all in their power to con- 
 sole them ; and, taking them by the hand, led them 
 to Lancaster ; where, for their greater security, 
 they lodged them in a strong stone building in the 
 town, in which they were supposed to be in per- 
 fect safety. Ihe Governor, John Penn, imme- 
 diately issued a proclamation, enjoining all officers 
 both civil and military, to assist in bringing to 
 justice the perpetrators of this horrid outrage. 
 
l^ORTH AMERICA. 5;3^ 
 
 The remaining 14 Indians continued in the house 
 provided for them in Lancaster, in the centre of 
 the town, unconscious of danger, till the 2rth of 
 the 12th Month, being 13 days from the time their 
 village had been destroyed. On that day a com- 
 pany of men, 50 in number, well mounted and 
 armed, rode hastily into Lancaster, made the best 
 of their way to the house where the poor Indians 
 were lodged j with violence broke open the door; 
 and with fury in their countenances rushed in upon 
 these unarmed and defenceless creatures. The In- 
 dians seeing no protection nigh, nor any possibility 
 of escape, immediately divided into their little 
 families ; the affrighted children clinging to their 
 distressed parents. In unutterable anguish they 
 fell upon their knees, protesting their love to the 
 English people, and that in their whole lives, they 
 had never done them any injury. While thus im- 
 ploring mercy of these hard-hearted men, they 
 were without distinction, hewn down with hatchets, 
 and, in a few moments, were all laid lifeless on the 
 floor; a deplorable instance amongst many others, 
 of what a pitch of wickedness the mind ©fman 
 may be brought to, when acting under wrong im- 
 pressions of imagined religious zeal. This cruel 
 massacre was completed in one of the largest in- 
 lands towns in America, in the broad face of day, 
 and in so public a manner, that after the commission 
 of this attrocious murder, the miscreants all came 
 cnat and stoo^ at the door of the house, besmeared 
 
-240 • TRAVELS IN 
 
 with blood, gave three loud huzzas, mounted their 
 horses, and rede away. Notwithstanding this pub- 
 licity, and a proclamation by John Penn, the Gov- 
 ernor, offering a reward of 2001. for the discovery 
 of any of them, yet such was the dread in which they 
 were held, that none of them were brought to 
 justice. 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 24l 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Du7ikers—'A Barn-'^Piazzas — Management of Wieeji — ■ 
 Merion-^Rclijise of the Sun — Summer Dress— ^ James 
 Sim/ison — Chad Fishery — B ee-eater—^Wild Grafies — 
 Crab Cyder— H'jgs — Firf^ Flies — Pajier- Mills — Chest- 
 nut Trees — Harvest — Ancient Deed — /. Rowland. 
 — Wood Felling — Indian Coim. 
 
 eth Month., Bth, 1806. I attended the Valley 
 meeting at which I noticed some of the Dunkers. 
 They are a religious society who make a point of 
 never taking off the beard, I observed a comely 
 looking young man, whose beard had so luxuriant 
 a growth, that it spread a considerable way ov^* 
 his breast, and gave him a very patriarchal ap- 
 pearance. At the close of the meeting several 
 friends invited me to their houses, but being pre- 
 viously engaged, I accompanied iVI, R. and dined 
 with him. After dinner he shewed me his barn, 
 stables, &c. which are the most complete I have 
 seen either in England or America. The barn is 
 of stone and sta.Kls on descending ground, having 
 a south aspect. It is about 40 yards in length by 
 10 in breadth, and 9 yards high in front. Along 
 the north side of the barn is a range of vaults 
 which communicate with it, and are on the same 
 level with the barn. The centre vault, whi h com- 
 municates with the cow-house, is fitted up as a 
 
 X 
 
342 TRAVELS lU 
 
 dairy ; and the other vaults are made use of to 
 preserve roots, &c. for the cattle, such as beets, 
 carrots, turnip?, potatoes, pumpkins, &c. As the 
 carriage-road into the barn runs over the vaults, 
 as high as the topmost floor of the barn, the vaults 
 are preserved cool in the summer, and free from 
 the frost in winter. The whole of the ground, 
 floor of the barn being set apart for sta'oles and 
 cow-houses as is commonly the case with barns 
 in Pennsylvania, there is accommodation for a 
 great number of horses and cows. Along the 
 front of the barn, about 8 feet from the ground, a 
 wooden stage projects about six feet from the 
 wall, inclosed overhead six or seven feet high, and 
 also at the ends and side, forming a gallery the 
 length of the building ; having several communi- 
 cations or door-ways out of the barn into it. In 
 the floor of this gallery are several trap doors, 
 through which they throw fodder for the cattle into 
 the yard during the winter months. It is obvious 
 that an appendage of this sort must be very useful 
 in a farm-yard, as it also aflfords a comfortable 
 shelter to the cattle from rain and snow. 
 
 In the afternoon M. R. accompanied me to my 
 cousin W. B.'s, and, in our way, we passed over 
 the ground occupied by the American Army under 
 General Washington, as an entrenched camp, 
 during the war. The remains of the entrench- 
 ments are still visible, although the scite is again 
 
NQRTH AMERICA. 
 
 243 
 
 become a thick wood ; so rapid is vegetation in this 
 part of the world. 
 
 After fording the Schuylkill, which is here broad 
 and shallow, having several islands in it covered 
 with lofty trees, we came upon W. B.'s plantation, 
 and soon afterwards reached his habitation. We 
 found the family sitting in the shade of the piazza, 
 in the front of the house, where we joined them 
 in taking tea, and enjoyed the freshness of the 
 breeze, and a beautiful prospect of a great part 
 of the country between his house and Philadelphia, 
 a distance of about 20 miles; and in the plea- 
 santest part of Pennsylvania. The privilege of 
 sitting under the shade of these piazzas, enjoying 
 the fresh air in the afternoons and evenings, fully 
 compensates for any inconvenience that is suffered 
 from the heat, in the warmest part of the day. 
 These piazzas are commonly six feet wide with 
 boarded floors. On seeing families seated in them 
 in their tranquil summer evenings, it constantly re- 
 minded me of the patriarchs of old, sitting at the 
 doors of their tents in the cool of the day. 
 
 eth Month, \Uh, was pleasantly spent at the house 
 of a relation ; and it was gratifying to find that he 
 was paying considerable attention to his flock of 
 sheep, also that his labours were in a fair way of be- 
 ing crowned with success. Hitherto the farmers in 
 
244 TRAVELS IH 
 
 this part of the worlds have paid but little attention 
 to their sheep, suffering the butchers to select 
 the best formed for the market, leaving the most 
 ordinary for stock. The natural consequence of 
 such a plan was that the breed continually dege- 
 nerated. Against this mode of proceeding my 
 relation had the good sense to remonstrate, and to 
 reserve for stock the best part of his flock. The 
 beneficial effects of this plan are so manifest, that 
 I have no doubt the neighbouring farmers will be 
 induced to follow his example. I think I have 
 before noticed how fond the cattle are of salt in 
 these parts. At the front of the house is a beau- 
 tiful lawn of many acres, gently descending to- 
 wards the Schuylkill, in which nearly 100 sheep 
 were feeding ; and so partial were they to salt, 
 that I have seen the girls go amongst them with a 
 handful of it, and by scattering a little amongst 
 them, entice the whole flock up to the house. 
 
 &th Months \2th. In coming down to Phila- 
 delphia, I noticed that the turnpike-road crosses 
 a 6ne vein of marble, which, at a little distance, is 
 worked to a great advantage. 
 
 Qth Months 14th, I attended a meeting at 
 Merion, of which public notice had been given, 
 on account of James Simpson, a Minister, who 
 intended being there. In consequence the house 
 was well filled, chiefly by persons of other persua- 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 245 
 
 sions ; amongst them, were one Senator, four 
 Judges, and four magistrates, who all behaved in 
 a becoming manner. This friend is far advanced 
 in years, and much esteemed by friends in Phila- 
 delphia and the neighbourhood ; yet he follows 
 the occupation of a broom-maker, and frequently 
 comes down to that city in a handsome little car- 
 riage, loaded with his manufacture. Although 
 a broom-maker may be accounted a mean occu- 
 pation with some men, yet few pastors stand higher 
 n the estimation of their flock than he does. 
 
 Gth Months IQth, This day was remarkable for 
 an almost total eclipse of the sun. About eleven 
 o'clock in the forenoon, I passed along the road 
 from my lodgings to H. B 's, wh' n all seemed as 
 quiet as at midnight ; some stars appearing, and 
 the birds being gone to roost. Although not so 
 dark as it commonly is in the night, yet there was 
 something awfal in the stillness and appearance of 
 the scene, there being scarcely a breath of air 
 stirring. The portion of the sun that was visible, 
 was only about a 24th part, and it cast a faint 
 glimmering light through tht* leaves of the trees, 
 the shadows of which appeared like shell-work 
 upon the ground. 
 
 6th Month^ 26th, The weather now becoming 
 warm, I had noticed several little boys and girls 
 
 vcomc to the meeting at Merion, without shoes and 
 
 X 2 
 
246 TRAVELS IN 
 
 Stockings, although in other respects well dressed ; 
 a number of men friends also, in the upper seats, 
 sat without coats and stockings, having long cot- 
 ton trowsers which came down to their shoe tops. 
 One young man who sometimes appears in the 
 ministry acceptably, had on a striped, cotton jacket 
 and trowsers, and a drab hat. Although these 
 appearances in dress are not familiar to an English- 
 man, yet habit soon reconciles us to them. And a 
 person who has not experienced it, can hardly 
 conceive how pleasant a light dress is in these warm 
 climates, as, at every motion, the limbs are so free 
 from obstructions. After a long warm summer, 
 wht;n the cold weather first comes oh, the incum- 
 brance of heavy clothing is much greater than 
 might be expected. 
 
 6th Months 28t/u This evening I was in com- 
 pany with James Simpson, he still continuing his 
 religious visits in this neighbourhood. I have al- 
 ready mentioned this friend with respect, but to 
 describe him completely would be a difficult task; 
 as it may be truly said that in person and dress, as 
 well as in the manner and subject of his mjnistry, 
 he is truly an original.* In his external appear- 
 ance, he is thin and upwards of six feet high,- his 
 visage is very long, and his face of an Ind.an com- 
 plexiijn, with small, quick eyes corrcspoi.d ng, 
 and, to appearaixce, he may be about 80 ye rs 
 
 * He is sinc€ deceased. 
 
NORTH AMFRICA. 24/ 
 
 qf age. In the gallery he commonly wears a dark 
 coloured cotton cap, fitting closely to his head, 
 and over his shoulders a long dark coloured cloak. 
 Notwithstanding his singular appearance, he is not 
 less remarkable in his manner when exercised in 
 the gallery. He uses considerable action and 
 gesticulation, and his sentiments in general, are 
 almost a continual exposition of the Mosaic 
 Law, with references to the counterpart in the 
 Gospel dispensation, which he explains in a way 
 that I never heard equalled; and with a volubility 
 of expression, and quickness of recollection, that 
 are astonishing to a stranger, 
 
 ^th Mouthy 29th. I this morning paid a visit 
 to J. J. and his wife, at their habitation. This 
 family, with many others i have met w^th, contra- 
 dict a notion which prevails in England, " That 
 the Americans are generally short lived." The 
 husband is in his 95th year, and his wife in her 
 89th year. One of his sisters is of he same age, 
 ani another sister is in her 85th year; and 11 of 
 them may, from every appearance, live some years 
 lo' w^er. J. J, told me, that he had ofien heard his 
 faincr speak of his having seen the fuu dation laid 
 of the first house that was built in Philadelphia ; 
 and 1 understood that he was one of William 
 Penn's most intimate fri-nds. 
 
 I spent this evening at B. J.'s country n sidence. 
 This house, which is substantiiii aud well built, 
 
248 TRAVELS IN 
 
 and finished in an expensive manner, stands on 
 a rising ground just above the Falls of the Schuyl- 
 kill, commanding a fine prospect of Philadelphia 
 and the river Delaware, both above and below 
 that city, being only about four miles distant. 
 The prospect embraces many beautiful country 
 residences on every hand. B. J. had lately made 
 a purchase of the house and 35 acres of land 
 adjoining. In this purchase was also included a 
 good farm-house, with an orchard, garden, out- 
 houses, and a cottage or two. In one of these 
 cottages, close by the Falls, a family resides, who 
 are employed by B. J. in the book-binding busi- 
 ness. The situation is as pleasant as can well be 
 conceived. 
 
 At this part of the river, the Chad Fishery 
 is prosecuted with great spirit in the early 
 pvrt of summer. Almost every farmer who hap*- 
 pens to have a field on the banks of the river, 
 keeps a net for this purpose; and, with a little 
 industry, may, in the course of two or three weeks, 
 lay up a supply for the whole year. The fish are 
 salttd, and are brought cut, through the winter, as 
 a relish at breakfast and supper. 
 
 I have some imes stood by in the evening watch- 
 ing the people takmg these fish. The nets used are 
 aboot 50 or 60 yards in length, anri about 6 feet in 
 width J the lower side being weighted with lead, and 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 24^ 
 
 the upper side supported with pieces of cork. One 
 end of the net is fixed firm to a stake on the edge 
 of the river, whilst the other end is taken out in a 
 small boat towards the other side. After getting 
 to the extent of it, the boat is rowed down the 
 river, bringing the end of the net with it, and 
 at length it comes to land, a little bejow the stake 
 to which the other end of the net is fastened, 
 forming a circular inclosure, within which the fish 
 are secured. As the net approaches the bank of 
 the river, the fishes are seen struggling in all di- 
 rections ; till at last they are brought close to the 
 shore, when they are quickly gathered up, and 
 thrown into the boat. Several hundreds are, at 
 times, taken at one draught; but as the fishing is 
 continued through the night, during the season, the 
 farmers often think themselves well paid with 20 
 or 20, as they weigh about 5 pounds each. 
 
 In the early part of the season, I think the chad 
 is nearly equal to trout. Although the practice 
 of eating it at breakfast and supper, is not com- 
 mon in England, I soon found myself very par- 
 tial to the chad at breakfast, with coffee and toast, 
 it being first nicely broiled over the hot embers of 
 a wood fire. 
 
 7th Month, 1st. In walking this day, I ob- 
 served the people to be generally engaged in reap- 
 ing barley, wheat, and rye. The farmers here: 
 
250 TRAVELS 11^ 
 
 get in their harvest with little difficulty, in conse- 
 quence of the clear settled weather which generally 
 prevails during their long summers. Unsound 
 grain is a thing scarcely ever heard of. 
 
 7th 3Ionth^ ^d. I spent the afternoon and 
 drank tea at H. B's. His bee-hives having been 
 considerably annoyed by a bird, called the Bee- 
 eater, he took out his fow^ling-piece, and shot one 
 of them; and on opening the craw, we found 
 many bees which it had devoured. So destructive 
 are these birds, that a nest of them would destroy 
 several hives in the course of a summer, if left 
 undisturbed. 
 
 7th Months 2d. I attended the Preparative 
 Meeting at Merion, and in the evening hiid a 
 pleasant walk to Dr. H's. A considerable part 
 of the road leading to his house, is lined with 
 cedar, sassafras, shumack, sweet chestnut, &c. &c. 
 but what has r. most singular and pleasing effect 
 is, that most of the higher trees are entirely over- 
 grown with ^vines, which spread over them with 
 great luxuriance ; and, when the grapes are ripe, 
 present a very inviting appearance. They are of a 
 small black kind, and very pleasant to the palate, 
 particularly in pies and tarts ; in which, according 
 to my taste, they exceed almost every other kind 
 of fruit. They are often preserved in jars, for 
 this purpose to be used in winter. Some of the 
 
NORTH AMERICA. "251 
 
 best wine I ever tasted, was made from this kind 
 of grape. 
 
 7th Mo7ith, Sth, was employed in business at 
 Philadelphia, where I dined with my hospitable 
 friends J. and A. W. In the evening I paid the 
 bride's visit to S. N. She was the relict of the 
 late W. S. and is a worthy friend. T. N. her 
 husband, having been a kind and intimate friend of 
 W. S's, had been appointed by him as his executor. 
 After waiting a suitable time, he made the widow 
 an offer of marriage ; which was in due season ac- 
 cepted. Thus he may at once, fiU the character of 
 husband, and fulfil the irust reposed in him by his 
 deceased friend. He is of an open, generous dispo- 
 sition, and possesses amply the means to indulge his 
 inclination. I have heard T. N. mention, that he 
 left England with his parents, when about four 
 years old, and that he had no recollection of any 
 thing in that country, except the skylark, which he 
 well remembered to have heard singing in the air. 
 This friend is one amongst many I have known in 
 this country who have emigrated from England, 
 and have been successful in business ; but who are 
 seldom heard of in their native land. 
 
 7th 3Ionth, 6th. After attending meeting, I 
 accompanied R. J. to his brother J. J's where 
 we drank tea. Before we left his house, he gave 
 
252 TRAVELS IN 
 
 A. 
 
 US a laste of his cycler, made from a species of 
 apple, called the Virginia crab, the produce of his 
 own orchard. It was superior to any liquor I have 
 ever tasted of the kind ; indeed I have seldom 
 drank a glass of wine equal to it, either as a body 
 or flavour. 
 
 Afterwards we called upon D. J. an ancient 
 friend, whose parents were amongst the first set- 
 tlers of this province. In the evening we called 
 upon J. Z, a friend whose progenitors came from 
 Germany. On my noticing a number of fine hogs 
 in his orchard, which appeared very attentive to 
 the fall of the fruit, he told me that he annually 
 brought up about twenty of them, which derived a 
 great part of their support from peaches, apples, 
 &c. during the day ; and, in the evenings and 
 mornings, they were supplied with milk from his 
 dairy. As he made a considerable quantity of 
 butter for the Philadelphia market, the old milk 
 and butter milk went in aid of the fruit in the 
 orchard, to bring forward the hogs, which are 
 fatted with Indian corn, at the close of the year, 
 to a large size. 
 
 7/A Months 7th* In the evening we called upon 
 H. B. who was engaged amongst his reapers in 
 the wheat field. He calculated that his produce 
 this year would be 30 bushels of wheat per acre; ; 
 
UORTH AMERICA. 253 
 
 an increase which must pay the farmer well, 
 where the land, generally speaking, is rented at 
 10s. an acre per annum ; there being no tithes, 
 and the taxes amounting to scarcely Is, per acre. 
 
 7th Months 9th, The evening being serene and 
 pleasant, I took a walk in company with our 
 neighbour R. B. and visited some of the neigh- 
 bouring families. Although this may be deemed 
 the hottest season of the year, I found no inconi. 
 venience from the exercise of walking, but it 
 must be remembered that our clothing was very 
 light. In passing along we were entertained with 
 the appearance of great quantities of fire flies, in 
 the fields and woods around us. They had the 
 appearance of immense quantities of bright sparks 
 of fire, flying in all directions amongst the grass 
 and corn, as well as the leaves and boughs of the 
 loftiest trees, 
 
 7th Mouthy 15th> Having been several times 
 kindly invited, I dined with P. W. a respectable 
 paper-maker in the neighbourhood of Merion, 
 where I spent the afternoon pleasantly. The 
 situation is beautifully romantic, being in a deep 
 narrow valley, the steep hills on each side of which 
 are covered with wood. The mill which would 
 be considered as an extensive one even in England, 
 -^ almost wholly employed in making writing and 
 
 y 
 
254 TRAVELS IN 
 
 printing paper, with large quantities of which he 
 supplies the printers and stationers in Philadelphia. 
 During the visit he gave me a little histor) of his 
 life. About 20 years ago, being then 12 years of 
 age, he left Mentz, his native place in Germany, 
 accompanied by his father, who died on the pas- 
 sage to this country. Being of that class of emi« 
 grants called redemptioners already mentioned, 
 P. W. on the arrival of the ship in the Delaware, 
 was hired by Henry Drinker, and was employed 
 about the house as a waiting boy, and assistant to 
 the girls in the kitchen. After spending nearly 
 four months in this family, and having acquired the 
 English language, he had the good sense to dis- 
 cern, that it would be more to his interest to be 
 taught some manufacture ; and requested liberty 
 of his master to be put apprentice to a paper- 
 maker, which was readily granted, although his 
 first indenture was not yet expired. After having 
 obtained a knowledge of the manufacture of paper, 
 he, by industry and care, acquired sufficient pro- 
 perty and credit to enable him to begin business ; 
 which he has now, for several years, carried on to 
 advantage. 1 never was in a paper-mill where 
 the business was managed with more neatness and 
 order. As 1 sat in the house it was pleasant to 
 reflect on such an instance of successful industry. 
 He has a rising family of healthy looking children 
 about him, with an amiable wife and several 
 sisters. 
 
NORTH AMERICA 2:>5 
 
 |n returning to my lodgings. I had the curiosity 
 to take the dimensions of a chestnut tree, of the 
 sweet kind, which stood by the way side ; and 
 found it more than 27 feet in circumference, and 
 its thickness continued in regular proportion to 
 the height of about seven yards, which was the 
 length of the bole, clear of branches, 
 
 7th Month, \6th. I have noticed for a day or 
 two past, that the harvest for wheat, rye, and 
 barley, is entirely over, not having continued more 
 than two weeks. The serene and settled weather 
 generally prevalent here, with the practice of work 
 people of all descriptions turning into the harvest 
 field, makes short work of it. It is not customary 
 here, as in England, for the women to work 
 in the harvest field at all. In this neighbourhood 
 the blacksmiths, wheelwrights, weavers, taylors, 
 &c. &c. all shut up their shops to assist the far- 
 mers. 
 
 7th Month, 20th* I attended Merion meeting, 
 and in the afternoon visited an ancient friend of 
 the name of Mary Price, who, although upwards 
 of 80 years of age, generally walks about a mile to 
 meeting ; and, considering her years, continues to 
 be an active, lively woman. At her house I was 
 shewn a deed of conveyance, of five thousand acres 
 of land, the purchase-money for which was one 
 hundred pounds, reserving a quit-rent to William 
 
256 TRAVELS XW 
 
 Penn and his heirs, of Is. per acre. The saftffe 
 land, where inclosed, now sells for 121. per acre, 
 being a six hundred fold advance in the course of 
 120 years, on the intrinsic value of the land. The 
 above-mentioned deed was a conveyance from 
 Charles Lloyd, and a female of the name of 
 Davies, to a person of the name of Humphreys* 
 This deed is in the hands of M. P's daughter- 
 in-law, who is a descendant of the Lloyds of 
 Dollebran. 
 
 7th Months 21 5^, was employed in writing to 
 my wife and family, when I informed them of my 
 intention of sailing for England, in the John 
 Morgan, Captain Bunker, with whom I was well 
 acquainted, and whom I knew to be a skilful, 
 careful seamen ; but notwithstanding my intentions^ 
 I was prevented, by unforeseen circumstances, 
 from sailing in this ship ; for which I have reason 
 to be thankful, as in her voyage to England she 
 struck upon a rock in the night, on the coast of 
 the Isle of Man, and was lost. 
 
 7th Mouthy 22d* I had a pleasant walk to the 
 Falls c>( the Schuylkill, having business to transact 
 with a person there. On my way thither, I was 
 informed of the decease of Joshua Rowland, an 
 amiable young man, of Lewis-Town, near the 
 mouth of the Delaware. Although not more 
 than 25 years old, his loss will be severely felt by 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 255^ 
 
 the black people in that neighbourhood. He had 
 been an ardent and steady friend to that oppressed 
 race, and the means of rescuing many of them 
 from a state of slavery, who had been cruelly 
 forced into bondage, by a set of unprincipled 
 men, from Georgia, who sometimes hover about 
 this part of the Delaware State and Maryland, 
 and carry off whole families of free Negroes in 
 the night. They take them on board small vessels, 
 in the neighbouring creeks, and so ship them off 
 to Georgia and the Carolinas, where they are 
 sold to the planters. 
 
 I have seen several of the black people whom 
 he had rescued and sent up to his brother-in-law, 
 Henry Bowman. The latter had procured them 
 situations in the interior of Pennsylvania, out of 
 the reach of these barbarous men. Not long ago, 
 a mother, with seven children, was thus carried 
 off, in the dead of the night from this neighbour- 
 hood. Thi J flagrant act deeply excited J. Row- 
 land's attention ; and, after ridi.og nearly one thou- 
 sand miles, he was enabled to rescue the whole 
 family, and bring them safe home to their native 
 place, although they had been dispersed and sold 
 into various hands, by the kidnappers, in different 
 parts of Georgia. 
 
 A very short time back, this excellent young 
 man was taken ill of a fever, which, notwith- 
 standing every help w^as afforded him, made so 
 
 Y 3 
 
258 TRAVELS IN 
 
 regular yet rapid a progress, that in a few days 
 all hopes of his recovery were at an end. Through 
 the whole, his mind was preserved calm and se- 
 rene, and, when sensible that the closing period 
 of time was at hand, he requested that his 
 domestics might be called into the room. These 
 consisted of two white servants, two Negroe 
 boys, and a little orphan girl, whose mother had 
 been many years a nurse in the family, out of 
 respect to whom, he supported and educated the 
 child. The mind may conceive the situation 
 and feelings of this little group, yet I am ready to 
 believe it is impossible for the pen to describe it. 
 After a short but awful pause, he addressed each 
 of them in the language and accents of a father ; 
 for indeed as a parent he had always conducted 
 himself towards them. Having communicated to 
 them counsel and advice suited to their several 
 jtates and conditions, he gently turned his face 
 from them, and quietly resigned himself, and left 
 the world without a sigh or struggle; a bright ex- 
 ample of faithtulness to his Divine Master, and a 
 more intelligible exposition of the Gospel of Jesus 
 Christ, than whole volumes of controversy* 
 
 7th Mouthy 23d and 24th. I continued at my 
 lodgings at Merion, making some arrangements 
 for my return to England. 
 
 I have sometimes noticed how expert the people 
 erf America are with the saw and the axe, and as 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 259* 
 
 an instance of their dexterity, I may mention what 
 a very respectable mill-wright, whose veracity may 
 be relied on, this day told me. He said that him- 
 self and one assistant had cut down, in one day, 
 25 forest trees, of which a considerable part were 
 oak, and which averaged 6 feet in circumference. 
 He added, that on using extraordinary exertion, 
 they cut down one tree of this bulk in 7^ minutes* 
 
 7th Month, 27th, 2Sth, and 29th, I was em^ 
 ployed in preparations for my return home, the 
 prospect of which was more pleasing to me than 
 I can express. In walking out into the fields 
 about this time, I noticed the crops of Indian corn 
 in the neighbourhood, which, in the line of hus» 
 bandry, are truly grand and beautiful at this season 
 of the year, far exceeding any thing of the kmd 
 to be met with in England. Many ol the plants 
 rise to the height of 10 or 12 feet, terminating at 
 the top with an elegant kind of flower somewhat 
 resembling a tuft of feathers. The leaves or blades 
 which shoot from the stalk, and branch from it 
 all the way up, are about the breadth of four 
 inches, and from two to three feet in length. Th6 
 whole gives a field of Indian com a most luxuriant 
 appearance. 
 
260 TRAVELS IN 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Several brief Kar rations'— -Occurrence relative to the 
 Author*s Voyage Home^ Ijfc. — Iron Works^—Two Ger- 
 man Families — Marble Quarry — A Farm — Emigrants 
 -—Taking leave of his Friends about Merioji^ i7it€7iding 
 for JVew-York—Occurrences on the Journey— Embarks 
 for England—Cabin Coin^iany— Occurrences on the 
 Veyage. 
 
 Sth Months 1st and 2d, 1806, were mostly spent 
 at B. J.'s pleasant residence at the Falls of Schuyl- 
 kill. Whilst here we visited the works of a calico 
 printer, who resides and carries on his business in 
 the neighbourhood. We were informed that his 
 principal business was printing India calicoes, which 
 are broughc in great quantities to Philadelphia, in 
 American ships trading to the East Indies. 
 
 8^^ Mouthy 4th, In the course of this day, 
 O. J. and his mother-in-law called upon us. This 
 venerable female, who is now far advanced in 
 years, has survived a numerous fiock of lovely 
 daughters, I think 10 in number, who havt, in 
 succession, been taken away from the troubles of 
 time, just as the affections of a mother would be 
 likely to feel most keenly the privation. 
 
 I had often remarked a settled grief upon her 
 countenance, notwithstanding the affluence that 
 was manifest in every thing around her j but had 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 261 
 
 not heard the mournful story till I had it from her 
 own mouth. 
 
 8th 3Iont/i, 6th. I had received several kind 
 invitations from both J, and C. S. to pay them a 
 visit at their habitations, at Shoemakers Town, 
 before I left this country. They are a family 
 for whom I ha\e entertained a great esteem, ever 
 since I have known them ; and the quarterly 
 meeting at Abington falling at this time, I proposed 
 embracing both objects ; and, setting out after 
 dinner, came to C. S.'s this evening. Here I was 
 hospitably entertained, and had the agreeable com- 
 pany of several friends from Philadelphia and the 
 neighbourhood. 
 
 8^^ Month, 7th. I accompanied this party of 
 friends to Abington quarterly meeting, whi^h was 
 very large. The meeting-house is a regular, well- 
 built, stone-building, and capable of holding a great 
 number of people. It is situated on a piece of 
 ground containing several acres, and which is co- 
 vered with a great number of large forest trees. 
 
 ^th Month, 8th, After breakfast we returned 
 to J. S.'s, where we spent an hour or two plea- 
 santly, with a number of valuable friends residtnt 
 in this quarter. The weather was very warm, 
 but the house was spacious, with wide passages 
 
262 TRAVELS IN » 
 
 through it, and no want of windows ; and they with 
 the doors being thrown open, it gave a free and 
 lively circulation to the air, which is very reviving 
 in this climate. 
 
 After sitting a little tinne in the parlour, a cir- 
 cumstance occurred which I think I shall not soon 
 forget. We entered into general conversation, 
 after which a silent pause ensued; and as I sat 
 musing on the prospect of my voyage home, with 
 some little anxiety respecting the perils of it, a 
 friend of Philadelphia, who sometimes appears in 
 the ministry, broke the silence that prevailed, by 
 remarking that his mind had been occupied in 
 the consideration of my voyage, and that for my 
 encouragement he might say, he had a belief that 
 I should be favoured to arrive safe in my native 
 land, in two months from that time. No observa-. 
 tion was now made on this intimation, but, oa 
 reaching my lodgings, I wrote to my wife inform- 
 ing her of the circumstance, and that I trusted the 
 friend would prove a true prophet. My letter 
 reached her hands two or three weeks previously 
 to my landing. 
 
 After spending the morning as above related-, 
 most of us attended a public meeting at German- 
 town, about six or seven miles distant, and being 
 requested by T. F. I accompanied him with seve- 
 ral other friencls to his country house, which he 
 
XORTH AMERICA. ' J^63 
 
 calls Wakefield. There we dined in a room on a 
 level with the cellar, which I found very pleasant 
 the weather being very warm, and the situation 
 admitting plenty of light. A dining-room so situ- 
 ated, is a great privilege at this season of the year, 
 in a climate like this. 
 
 After spending a pleasant hour or two here I 
 came to Philadelphia, where I found letters from 
 my wife of as late a date as towards the end of the 
 5th month. In riding along the street, I passed 
 by J. G's house, and his wife, a native of Lan* 
 caster, kindly inviting me to take tea, I spent a 
 little time with them, and in the evening returned 
 to my lodgings at Merion. 
 
 In recurring to the intimation respecting the 
 time of my return to England, there are several 
 circumstances attending it, which I think are 
 worthy of remembrance, though they are a little 
 out of the regular course of my narrative. It has 
 been already mentioned, that it was my full inten- 
 tion to sail in the John Morgan, but that I was 
 disappointed by the owners making an alteration in 
 the time for her departure. After this T. W, and 
 I had concluded to sail for Greenock, in the 
 Frances, she being a fine, new vessel with good 
 accommodation ; but in this design I was again dis- 
 appointed, the ship sailing before I could be quite 
 yeady. In her passage she encountered a violent 
 
264 TRAVELS IN 
 
 Storm, which nearly reduced her to a wreck ; and 
 such were the difficulties the ship's company had 
 to encounter, that several of the passengers and 
 seamen lost their lives. Notwithstanding I was fa- 
 voured to escape these imminent perils, there was 
 considerable probability of my not reaching Eng- 
 land by the time mentioned ; as I still remained at 
 Kew-York, when it wanted only about four weeks 
 to the completion of that period ; and after we got 
 on board, we were detained on the American coast 
 nearly two weeks, by calms and light winds. Yet 
 we crossed the Atlantic ocean from thence in the 
 short period of 9 days. On the 10th day, and 
 23d of our voyage, we made soundings off Cape 
 Clear, and on the 26th day landed safely at Liver- 
 pool, where 1 was affectionately received by my 
 near relations in that town, within the time which 
 the friend had predicted I should return. I for- 
 bear making any farther comments on these cir- 
 cumstances. But in the course of events I felt 
 m my heart the sentiments of humble thankfulness 
 to the great Preserver of Men. 
 
 8th Months Mth, I spent this day at J. H's 
 in company with M. E. from Elklands. She was 
 then on a visit to her father, who had been seized 
 with a paralytic affection, which had entirely de- 
 prived him of the use of speech j yet I have seldom 
 seen a man preserved in such innocent cheerful- 
 ness as he was. It is wonderful to observe what 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 26^ 
 
 a degree of happiness the mind is capable of en- 
 joying, under privations like these, when it has 
 been preserved in a good degree of innoccncy. 
 
 Qth Month, 13t/u A friend in the neighbour- 
 hood gave me an account of an acquaintance of 
 his, a native of Ireland, but who now resides 
 near Lancaster, in the State of Pennsylvania, 
 which I think worth preserving. This person 
 left Ireland when he was nearly 16 years old, and 
 his whole property when he landed amounted only 
 to about 12 guineas. He has now established 
 extensive iron works where he resides, in which 
 he employs upwards of 50 waggon teams ; and the 
 profits of which, last year, amounted to twenty-five 
 thousand pounds. What makes it the more re- 
 markable is, that two persons possessing a large 
 capital had been ruined some time before, in an 
 attempt to establish the same concern. 
 
 8th 3Ionth, 14th. In walking out this evening; 
 I met with two German families on their way to 
 the Ohio. On entering into conversation with 
 them, they informed me, that they were yet 500 
 miles distant from the place of their destination. 
 They were a company of fine, healthy looking 
 people, and travelled along with apparent chear- 
 fulness. The older females and the little ones were 
 upon beds in their covered waggons, whilst the 
 
 7. 
 
266 TRAVELS IN 
 
 young women, with tb.eir husbands, fathers, and 
 brrjthers went on foot. Parties of this sort I have 
 oiten seen travelling along, in the old Patriar- 
 chal style, seeking a country where they hoped to 
 meet with more tranquillity and repose, than they 
 had witnessed in the old principalities of Germany. 
 
 Considering the stability and industry which so 
 eminentlv characterize most of the German emi- 
 grants, I am inclined to believe that things must be 
 very much out of order, in their native la.id, before 
 men like them, would come to the resolution of 
 taking a final farewell of thtir near connexions 
 and friends ; with the perils and inconveniencies of 
 so long a voyage before them. 
 
 ^th Mouthy 17th, I paid a visit to our neigh- 
 bour Doctor H. After tea we called upon a family 
 of the rsame of Crow, where I saw a little esta- 
 blishment iust as it stood in the first settlement of 
 the country. It consisted of a small workshop, 
 containing a set of tools proper for blacksmiths 
 and carpenters, which at that period, must have 
 been an almost invaluable appendage to a farm- 
 house. The Doctor complained to us that he had 
 lately lost nearly the whole of his ducks and geese ; 
 which had been devoured by a large species of 
 tortoise. This animal creeping on the bottom ol 
 the pond, seizes the unsuspecting fowis by the 
 feet, and dragging them under water^ eats tiiem* 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 267 
 
 at its leisure. The Doctor had a respectable esta- 
 blishment for the education of his children ; having 
 an extensive library, with a pair of large globes, 
 and an amiable ) oung woman from England as 
 tutoress, who was well qualified for her office, hi^ 
 children being mostly girls. 
 
 Qth Month. ISt/i^ I went over to Philadelphia; 
 and having had several pressing invitations from 
 Doctor G. who had been a fellou'-student with 
 my brother William at Edinburgh, I dined with 
 him. The Doctor is one amongst the few of that 
 profession, who retain their integrity by continu- 
 ing to be consistent members of our society ; and 
 he is a very useful member of the monrhly meeting 
 to which he belongs. In the aftern jon I {^pent a 
 little time at John Elliott's and Sannuel Fisher's ; 
 and took my farewell of them all, with sentiment* 
 of esteem, and of gratitude for the many instances 
 of their kind attentions to me. "White in this city, I 
 received letters from my wife and family down to 
 the 6th Mon'h 16th, with satisfactory accounts of 
 their welfare. 
 
 8th Months 20th, O. J. having kindly offered 
 me a seat in his carriage, I accompanied him to 
 the annual general meeting in the Valley ; at which 
 a great number of friends and others attended ; 
 indeed, a great many more than the house, though 
 large, was able to contain, 
 
268 TRAVELS IN- 
 
 After meeting, we accepted an invitation from 
 J. C. and dined at his house, where we sat down 
 to table with him and his wife, their aged father 
 and mother, ten daughters and one son ; being a 
 fair sample of an American farmer's family. I 
 was informed that his neighbour D. G. a respecta* 
 ble farmer, with whom I have often been in compa- 
 ny, has ten sons and one daughter. 
 
 Considering the accounts I had read, of the 
 homely fare and accommodations of the planters 
 in America, I was struck with the number and 
 elegance of the carriages we saw on the road, in 
 going from meeting to the house where we dined ; 
 part of the way lying through the forest, and some 
 part through a country in a high state of cultivation, 
 the prospects were beautifully diversified. 
 
 In our way home, we took tea at the pro- 
 prietor's of an extensive marble quarry, who 
 kindly conducted us into it ; where we had an op- 
 portunity of seeing the people at work, in sepa- 
 rating large blocks from the solid rock. This 
 vein of marble, which appeared to be from 15 to 
 '20 yards in width, runs in the direction of south- 
 east, and north-west, through a stratum of lime- 
 stone, a few feet below the surface of the ground ; 
 and it has the appearance of there having been 
 a cleft in the limestone rock, into which the mar- 
 ble had been poured in a liquid state. Col. H. at 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 269 
 
 whose house we were generously entertained, and 
 who is owner of the quarry, informed us that he 
 had sold thirteen thousand cubic feet from it in 
 one year, at 4s. 6d. per foot. The weather being 
 fine, and our little party consisting of several 
 agreeable men and women friends, the day was 
 spent very pleasantly. 
 
 8//z Months 2-2d. A. B. a friend from England, 
 paid me a visit, having some prospect of taking a 
 farm in this neighbourhood. His predecessors 
 for several generations, had lived upon a farm on 
 Delamere Forest in Cheshire ; but the steward to 
 the present proprietor, having turned him off the 
 farm, he, with his widowed mother, and several 
 sisters and a brother, had lately come over ta 
 America, with the view of taking and managing a 
 cheese farm, upon the Cheshire plan. 
 
 Qth Months 23d, I accompanied A. B. to 
 G. A.'s in order to have some conversation with 
 him respecting a farm he had to let, and to view it. 
 This farm was in a good state of cultivation, with 
 an excellent house, a very large barn, and stabling 
 for many horses, with other conveniences on an 
 extensive scale. The spring house, or dairy, in 
 particular struck my attention, having a trench of 
 spring water, about 2 feet wide and 4 or 5 inches 
 deep, running all round the room, paved at the 
 bottom, and inclosed at the sides with slabs of white; 
 marble, Z 2 
 
270 TRAVELS Iff 
 
 I have before observed, that in the spring water 
 which surrounds the floor of the dairies in this 
 country, are placed the vessels which contain the 
 milk, &c. and all is thus preserved sweet and cool, 
 in the hottest part of the summer. Another 
 eonveniency I noticed in this farm-yard, was an 
 appendage to the hog-sty, being a vault, near 
 which was a stream of water, all within the inclo- 
 sure wherein the hogs were confined. The advan- 
 tages and comfort thus resulting to these animals, in 
 hot weather must be obvious. On this farm, was 
 also an excellent orchard of several acres, the trees 
 of which were at this time in their prime, and 
 .now in full bearing, and having been planted by 
 the late Governor Mifflin, whose residence was 
 here, they were well selected. Such abundance 
 of fine fruit I never before beheld, in the same 
 compass of ground ; two ot three of the best trees 
 were literally broken down with the weight of the 
 fruit. The rent G. A. proposed for his farm, 
 with all these appendages, was about 20s. per 
 acre ; and, the quantity being short of 100 acres, 
 the rent would amount to little more than legal 
 interest for the money which had been exptnded 
 in buildings. As it was not more than an hour's 
 ride from Philadelphia, and the land of good quali- 
 ty, I thought the price very reasonable. 
 
 8t/i Months 24th. I attended Merion meeting 
 \n the forenoon j and in the afternoon visited and 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 271 
 
 drank tea with John Parrish, in company with 
 B. J. Most of the afternoon we sat in the piazza 
 in front of the house, at Woodside, where we had 
 a fine view of Philadelphia, the Jerseys, and the 
 intervening country. We were much entertained 
 with the little Humming Birds, flying about the 
 flowers near our seats. 
 
 Stfi Months 27th» My business requiring that 
 I should see a person who was at the Yellow 
 Springs, I this day took a ride thither. At the 
 inn where I breakfasted, which was the General 
 Paoli Tavern, I met with a family who had landed 
 a few days before in Philadelphia, and were now 
 on their way to the Ohio. As they spoke neither 
 Englisli no French, I was unable to make out 
 from what part of the continent of Europe they 
 eame j but, from their dress, I supposed from 
 Switzerland. The men wore a plain jacket and 
 trowsers, with very large shallow crowned hats a 
 and the women had their hair plaited in long braids] 
 which hung down their backs, with jackets and 
 petticoats just the reverse of the fashions of the pre- 
 sent day. Altogether they had the appearance of a 
 stout, hardy race, and, in this company, I under- 
 stood there were four generations. The master of 
 the inn informed me that he had reason to believe 
 they had a very large property with them, in the 
 waggons in which they travelled. On my arrival at 
 ihe Yellow Springs, I bathed and drank the waters-, 
 
2^2 TRAVELS IN 
 
 which are I believe, a chalybeate. In the evening 
 I returned to Merion, where I lodged, but was 
 kept awake for a while in reflecting on the wide 
 wasting effects of war, probably in consequence of 
 meeting with the family of strangers at the Paoli 
 Tavern. That spot was rendered famous by the de- 
 struction, as is said, of some hundred Americans, 
 who lay encamped there, and were surprized in the 
 dead of the night by a detachment of the English 
 army, and put to the sword. The consequence of 
 which was, I have been informed, that a party of 
 English met with the same fate in a similar way, 
 from the swords of the Americans, on the banks of 
 Hudson River. In addition to that event, I under- 
 stood, from the master oi the inn, that the family of 
 strangers I had mentioned, all of whom appeared 
 to be persons of respectability, had been compelled 
 to seek shelter in a foreign land, to avoid the 
 scourge of the sword, which had recently over- 
 whelmed their country. 
 
 How little do the potentates of the world and 
 their ministers, calculate on the miseries they pro- 
 duce. And ah I how little do they consid' r what 
 responsibility, in the nature of things, they must 
 inevitably entail upon themselves in a future state 
 of being. 
 
 ^th Months 28th, was spent in Philadelphia, 
 where I dined with T. S. and paid a farewell visl 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 273 
 
 to his family, whose kindness and hospitality I 
 have frequently experienced. 
 
 Sth Months 29th, The afternoon of this day 
 was agreeably spent in the company of O. J. his 
 mother, and sisters, at their country residence ; 
 and, after passing a pleasant evening in their so- 
 ciety, I took my final farewell of them, with 
 sentiments of gratitude for their attention and hos- 
 pitality to me, who was a stranger amongst them. 
 
 Sth Ilonthy 20th and S\st^ were employed in 
 taking leave of a number of friends in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Merion, to whom I feel under great 
 obligation, for their kindness and attention to me, 
 during my residence in this quarter. The after- 
 noon of the latter day I drank tea at R. J.'s, in 
 company with him and several other friends. In 
 the evening we took, in all probability, a final fare- 
 well of each other, with many expressions of af- 
 fection on their part, which were equally felt on 
 my own ; having contracted a sincere regard for 
 the little company of friends resident at Merion. 
 
 9/^ Mo7ith, 1st. This morning I left Merion 
 on my way to New-York, in order to take my 
 passage for England, b^ing accompanied by A. B. 
 In my way I passed through Philadelphia, but 
 being limited for time, I had opportunity of cal- 
 
'274 TRAVELS IN 
 
 ling upon only a few friends ; some of whom kindly 
 attended me to the Burlington packet, which lay 
 at Arch-street wharf. I. and J. P. two generous 
 hearted young men, remained with me tintil we 
 put off into the Delaware, and spread our sails to 
 the wind, which in about one hour and a half 
 wafted us safe to Burlington ; a distance of near 
 20 miles. Here I called upon G. and S. D, J. 
 H. ard several other friends, who felt dear to 
 me in the prospect of parting with them, perhaps 
 never to see them more in this state of being. 
 After taking an affectionate farewell of them, A. B. 
 and myself set out in the stage for Amboy, and 
 passed through Croswicks. Here friends have a 
 large well-built meeting-house, with a school and 
 other conveniences on a large scale. We lodged 
 that night at Crasabury. One of our companions 
 in the stage, was a person of the name of Reckless, 
 who informed me that he was a descendant of the 
 Sheriff of that name, formerly of Nottingham, and 
 mentioned by George Fox in his Journal. This 
 family have increased in number and consequence 
 since coming into America, and have founded a 
 town which bears their name. 
 
 2th Month, 2d» We came safe to Amboy, and, 
 about two o'clock in the afternoon, set sail for 
 New- York ; yet, having but little wind, we did 
 not reach the Narrows till after dark. The wind 
 beginning to blow very strong, the Captain of the 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 2/5 
 
 Packet thought it unsafe to attempt passing them ; 
 he therefore put the ship aboat, with an intention 
 to run into Princes Bay, and there lie at anchor 
 till next morning, being a distance of near 20 
 miles. As we were running before the wind, at 
 the rate of 6 miles an hour, in the dead of the 
 night, with a very rough, sea, the vessel sud- 
 denly struck against something which immediately 
 stopped her progress ; and she swung round with 
 great violence and noise. At the first alarm I ran 
 upon deck, when I found that our vessel had run 
 foul of another, which was lying at anchor ; and 
 our bowsprit was entangled in ihe rigging of the 
 other ship. This so broke the force of the shock, 
 that we sustained but little damage, and in a short 
 time got clear of each other. We had great cause 
 to be thankful for so signal a preservation, many 
 vessels having been lost, with the people in them, 
 when in much less apparent danger than we were 
 on this occasion. 
 
 9th Month, 3d, After lying at anchor several 
 hours, at day-light we again made sail for New- 
 York, where we were met by some of our friends 
 at the wharf, and I again took up my quarters at 
 my kmd friend S. P.'s. '' 
 
 9th Month, 5th. Yesterday I called upon se- 
 veral of my friends to take leave of them, and this 
 day, accompanied by J. W. and T. W. I went on 
 board the Oliver Elsworth, with a view of taking 
 
276 TRAVELS IN 
 
 my passage for Liverpool ; and being satisfied, 
 both with the Captain and the ship, I concluded 
 to go in her, and paid my passage accordingly. 
 In the afternoon, J. M. having kindly offered me 
 a seat in his carriage; I rode with him to his 
 country house, and was generously entertained 
 under his hospitable roof. 
 
 ^th Months 6th. This morning I went out with 
 J. M. to attend upon a black man, who had come 
 from New-York, to treat for the purchase of a 
 chaise which J. M. wished to sell, having lately 
 purchased a new one upon a different construction. 
 In conversation I gathered a little of the history 
 of this black man, who by his industry and and ma- 
 nagement, had aquired a considerable freehold 
 property in houses in the ciiy, and could now* 
 with propriety, indulge his family with the conve- 
 niency of a chaise. 
 
 A few years past he was in very low circum- 
 stances, but coming under the notice of J. M, 
 who has been, I believe, amongst the foremost in 
 befriending the poor blacks, he was put for- 
 ward and assisted in business, and with so much 
 success, that he is now become a very respectable 
 tradesman. Indeed he ranks much higher than many 
 of thosf, who have so strenuously contended that 
 the poor blacks are little or nothing removed from 
 the brute creation ; ar.d that they may be bought, 
 sold, and degraded, as having neither the feelings 
 
KORTIl AMERICA. 2/7 
 
 nor faculties of men. So erroneous is this idea, 
 that I have met with slave merchants, who were 
 far inferiour to this black person, in the faculties 
 of the mind. 
 
 After a pleasant morning thus spent at J. M.'s, 
 he brought me to New- York, and shewed me 
 through the cellars of his extensive brewery in 
 that city. The remaining part of the dav, was 
 spent in preparations for my voyage to England. 
 
 ^th Months 7th. This morning I attended New- 
 York meeting, and afterwards dined at my cousin 
 B. B.'s ; and drank tea and spent the evening with 
 some other of my friends. 
 
 The afternoon meeting wa^ disturbed this day, 
 by a singular character, who, 1 understood, was 
 often very troublesome. After the meeting had 
 sat some time in silence, he got up, and, with a 
 loud voice and violent gesticulation, declared that 
 he came there that day, in order to bear his solemn 
 testimony against silent meetings. 
 
 ^th Month, Sth, This day was mostly employed 
 in packing up my luggage, and putting it on board 
 the ship. 
 
 9th iMonth, 9th, This morning, between six 
 and seven o'clock, I went on board the '. 'liver 
 Elsworth, attended by several friends of New- York, 
 who kindly accompanied us, and remained until 
 
 Aa 
 
278 TJIAVELS IN 
 
 the ship weighed anchor about eight o'clock. I 
 then took a final farewell of " this delightful 
 land," in which, although I have met with many 
 things to try my faith and patience, I have 
 nevertheless met with kind-hearted, affectionate 
 friends; many of whom feel nearer and dearer to 
 me than I h^ve language to express ; and whose 
 Icindness and hospitality, I trust will never be 
 effaced from my memory. 
 
 Although a voyage to America may be consi- 
 dered as a laborious and perilous undertaking, yet 
 I have thought myself well repaid, in the pleasing- 
 event of many amiable and worthy friends having 
 thereby been added to the list of my acquaintance ; 
 ivhom, in all probability, I should otherwise never 
 have known; and who, as to myself, would have 
 hten as though they had never been. 
 
 As the loss of friends by death or otherwise, 
 may be considered as one of the severest of priva- 
 tions to a sensible mind ; so, on the other hand, 
 any addition to the number may be truly consi- 
 dered as one of the most valuable acquisitions^ 
 Yet such are our various propensities, that many, 
 no doubt, look upon the satisfaction arising from 
 sources of this kind, as little better than the phan- 
 toms of the imagination : and not to be compared 
 with the pleasures arising from wealth or worldly 
 honours. 
 
 Having weighed anchor, and got all sails 
 spread, we glided gently along, having but little 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 279 
 
 wind. The weather being fine and clear, we had 
 a beautiful autumnal prosp ct of the country 
 around us, all the way down to Sandyhook ; and 
 there being no sickness amoi.g the passengers, we 
 enjoyed the scene. Our comnanv consisted of a 
 reinarkai;le diversity as to the countries whence 
 they came. One caiue from Delhi in Persia; 
 two w re Hindoos, a man and woman ; one came 
 from BerbicL in South America ; one from Jamaica; 
 one from Ireland; one from Scotland; four from 
 England; and one was a military officer from 
 Bengal. Besides these, the Captain and Mate 
 of the ship were North Americans, and the ship's 
 Steward was a native of Germany. 
 
 Notwithstanding this great national variety, in 
 our cabin's company, and a great diversity in re- 
 ligious profession, yet considerable harmony pre- 
 vailed; which in a great measure arose from the 
 constitution of our little republic, the government 
 of which was formed, at the request of the Cap- 
 tain, in the outset of the voyage. The plan. 
 a<lopted was to divide the company in the cabin, 
 into three committees, who took the government 
 into their hands by turns ; each having the direction 
 of affairs for a certain number of days in rotation ; 
 during which the Steward and Cook applied to che 
 acting committee for instructions, in all affairs 
 -relative to eating and drinking ; these being mat- 
 ters in v/hich the judgment of passengers is very 
 
o 
 
 so TRAVELS i^f 
 
 likely to differ; especially when consisting of iiii- 
 lives of so many different parts of the world. The 
 Captain foresecirig this, had wisely proposed to us 
 this mode of arrangement, and thus removed all 
 responsibility from himself, whilst it left him more 
 fully at liberty to manage the ship. 
 
 A little before we left New-York, there had 
 been some very boisterous weather, the effects 
 of which we had an opportunity of noticing, as 
 we passed by Sandyhook ; where we saw several 
 vessels which had suffered sever-ely. One in par- 
 ticular had lost all her masts, and was endeavour- 
 ing to make her way to New- York, by means of a 
 little canvas spread upon some temporary poles, 
 which they had set up. Another had her top-mast 
 broken off, and still hanging by the rigging ; how- 
 ever the weather was then clear and calm, and for 
 several days no sickness appeared amongst us. 
 For twelve days we made but very slow progress ; 
 but on the thirteenth day we got upon the Banks 
 of Newfoundland, w^here the vessel was stopped 
 a few hours, during which we took some fish; 
 after which we hoisted our sails and cleared the 
 Banks early the next day. 
 
 A little before we reached the Banks, the wea- 
 ther being very fine and calm, we discovered a sail 
 to the eastward, which like ourselves, made but 
 •very little progress; yet, in the course of the fore* 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 281 
 
 noon, we came within five or six miles of each 
 other, when the wind nearly died away, and the 
 sea became as smooth as a fish-pond. As the ship 
 in sight was deemed likely to be coming from 
 England, some of our people had a great desire ta 
 get along-side of her, in order to inquire what news 
 she brought. The boat was in consequence let- 
 down into the sea, and the mate and several pas- 
 sengers got in and rowed away, until they had an 
 opportunity of getting on board ; when they found 
 that she was a ship bound to Philadelphia fron\ 
 Rotterdam. 
 
 After leaving this vessel, a young man from 
 Manchester having a desire to bathe in the sea^ 
 all being smooth and calm, stripped himself for 
 that purpose. The Captain of the Philadelphia 
 ship observing this, took his speaking trumpet, 
 and warned him aga nst going into the sea; as they 
 had observed a large shark hovering about them, 
 all the morning ; but the young man supposing he 
 was ohly in jest, paid no regard to him, and leaped 
 into the sea, where he swam about a little time, 
 and then got s:.'fely into the boat again. How- 
 ever, on the boat*s approaching our vessel, the 
 shark was discovered in company with her, watch- 
 ing for his prey, and continued hovering round 
 our ship for some time. Lookiiig at all the cir- 
 cumstances of the case, it may be consi ered a 
 
 singular and wonderful preservation, tht^t this 
 
 A a^ 
 
f§^2 TRAVELS IN 
 
 young man was not devoured ; for had he con? 
 tinned one minute longer in the water, in all pro- 
 bability he would have been destroyed. By this 
 little excursion of the boat I saw the extreme 
 folly and danger of leaving a ship at sea, even in 
 the finest weather ; except in cases of absolute 
 necessity ; for this boat had not got above half 
 way to the other ship, when a squall came on with 
 a thick haze, by which we lost sight of them, and 
 they of us. Had this state of the weather con- 
 tinued but for a few hours, they, in all likelihood, 
 would have been lost. When this alteration in the 
 weather took place, and the boat disappeared, I 
 confess I was extremely alarmed ; although, on the 
 company's leaving the ship, I gave one of them a 
 small pocket compass, fearing that by some acci- 
 dent, they might be separated from us. On my 
 expressing my fears to the Captain, he said that 
 he scarcely knew a boat leave the ship in a calm 
 like this, but a squall of wind came on. 
 
 On the 14th day of our voyage, being the 23d of 
 the 9th month, after taking soundings on the Banks, 
 the wind freshened, and being in our favour, we 
 sailed about 220 miles, and on the 15th day, the 
 wind still increasing, we sailed about 230 miles in 
 our direct course. On the evening, between seven 
 and eight o'clock, we descried a ship going right 
 before the wind, like ourselves, with all sails set ; 
 and by ten o'clock, being about two hours und ^ 
 
VORTH AMFRICA. 
 
 28^ 
 
 half we came up with her, and passing close by, 
 we 'found her to be the British Packet from 
 Halifax, in passing, we observed the men were 
 all at their guns, with lighted matches, supposing 
 our ship was an enemy in pursuit of them. We 
 soon lost sight of them, our vessel being much the 
 better sailer. 
 
 On the Ibth day we sailed near 220 miles, and 
 on the irth day about 140 miles; on the 18th 
 about 220 mi es ; on the 19th about 120 miles ; 
 and on the 20th day about 240 miles. Sailing in 
 this rapid manner, the motion of the ship through 
 the waves caused a foam as white as milk ; a long 
 train of which might be seen to a great distance 
 behind the vessel ; and the hissing noise the ship 
 produced, excited the idea of a huge mass of red 
 hot iron, passing through the water. On the 21st 
 day of our voyage, we sailed about 120 miles ; on 
 the 22d day about 120, and on the 23d about 250; 
 and this day we made soundings off Cape Clear. 
 Thus, from the 14th to the 23d, being the space 
 of 9 days> we sailed from soundings to soundings 
 on the two sides of the Atlantic Ocean ; a very 
 short space of time, to traverse so vast a sea. 
 On the 24th day we entered the Channel, and 
 early in the morning passed in sight of W^^terford 
 Light.house. In the course of the day we also 
 passed the Tusco Rocks, having sailed nearly i^O 
 miles. 
 
2S4 TRAVELS IM 
 
 On the 25th day, about midnight, we came- 
 close in with the point of Holyhead ; and, about 
 one in the morning, came in sight of the Skerries 
 Light-house. This was the last night we were out 
 at sea, and to me it appeared by far the most 
 dangerous ; for the wind being very high, and the 
 tide running very strong along this rocky coast, 
 made so much noise, that the seamen were unable 
 to hear the captain give his commands ; and being 
 close in with the Isle of Anglesea, v/e appeared to 
 be completely land-locked. 
 
 As I stood by the captain, he requested me to 
 reach the speaking trumpet, which was the only 
 time he hac^ occasion to make use of it for this 
 purpose during the voyage. All was agitation 
 and bustle for a time ; the loud roaring of the 
 winds aid waves was such, thatreven aided by 
 the speaking trumpet, it was with difficulty the 
 Captain could make himself heard by the poor sea- 
 men, who were aloft in the rigging, using every 
 exertion to keep the ship from driving upon the 
 rocks; with the wind blowing right upon them. 
 
 I had now crossed the Atlantic four times, but 
 had not before heard so loud an uproar of winds 
 and waves as at this period ; which, I suppose, was 
 in part owing to the tide at this time running out 
 with violence round the point of Hoi) head, and 
 adding to ijie loud howling of the winds in the 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 285 
 
 neighbouring mountains, which then appeared 
 nearly to surround iisi These were to nne the 
 most awiul moments, I had experienced, in all my 
 travels, and, by those who know any thing of the 
 coast, our situation may be more easily conceived 
 than I can describe it. As the ship was thus with 
 difficulty working her way through the discordant 
 elements, every moment in danger of striking upon 
 the rocks, we happily came in sight of the Skerries 
 Lights, which removed all our fears. To be re- 
 lieved from a situation of such great anxiety and 
 danger, was indeed cause of thankfulness, and I 
 trust will not soon be forgotten. 
 
 Although there v/ere neither moon nor stara 
 visible, yet the bleak mountains around us were 
 distinctly seen, and at times did not appear to be 
 more than a stone's cast from the ship ; but this 
 appearance was in all probability deceptive, as it 
 was scarcely possible we could have escaped ship- 
 wreck, had we really i)een so near the rocks. 
 
 Immediately after coming in sight of the Lights, 
 a signal gun was fired from our ship ; and in a few 
 miimtes a pilot-boat came alongside us, and we 
 took a Pilot on board. The wind about this time 
 subsiding, we gently made our way up the Channel j 
 and early in the morning, cast anchor off the 
 Cheshire coast, where we remained till day-light 
 of the 26th day of our voyage, being the 5th of the 
 
286 
 
 TRAVELS IN 
 
 10th Month. On arising and going upon deck, 
 I found we were surrounded by a fleet of near 20 
 sail of ships, several of them, like ourselves, being 
 from America, and all waiting the return of the 
 tide. 
 
 The morning being warm and fine, after so 
 tempestuous a night, we enjoyed the prospect 
 around us ; and, about eleven o'clock, we and the 
 rest of the v<-ssels in company, weighed anchor. 
 Having but little wind, most of our sails were 
 spread to it, and we gently m:de our way to the 
 Mersey. In this interval, our cabin company all 
 sat down to dinner together. Notwithstanding 
 we were so diversified, both with respect to 
 country and to habits, and manners ; yet, having 
 been so closely confmed within the narrow limits 
 of tlie ship J daily eaiing and drinking together, 
 and being sharers in every danger, an attachment 
 was produced, so that I could not avoid feeling a 
 sensation of seriousness in the reflection, that this 
 was, in all likelihood, the last time we should meet 
 together again in this world. 
 
 I have sometimes thought it a little remarkable, 
 that of all the variety of the people we had on board, 
 if I except a near relation, I received more kind- 
 ness and attention from the poor Hindoo man, 
 though he was in the station of a servant, than 
 from any other person. Although he did not 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 287 
 
 bear the name of a Christian, yet in Christian 
 virtues he far excelled many who bear the name ; 
 and I sometimes was ready to wish I could have 
 entered into his thoughts when he heard, as was 
 sometimes the case, some of our Christian pas- 
 sengers, advocating the Justices and propriety of 
 Negro slavery. He himself was of a darker hue 
 than many slaves. 
 
 On my leaving the ship, there were divers 
 articles which it was not necessary should pass the 
 Custom-house ; and which I wished to take with 
 me to my relation's in Liverpool. On getting 
 these matters together, and being about to have 
 them taken away, with ihe permission of the officer 
 on board, I was surprised at this kind Hindoo 
 stepping forward, and insisting upon taking them 
 to my quarters in the town, where he delivered 
 them safely at the house of my relation, a distance 
 of more than a mile from the ship, without accept- 
 ing any other reward, than the satisfaction of 
 doing a kind office to one he believed to be his 
 friend. The articles he took, were mostly natural 
 curiosities, with some specimens of Indian inge- 
 nuity ; and I was entertained, with the interest which 
 seemed to be excited in the people who stood 
 gazing at this friendly Indian, as he traversed the 
 streets with his burden j both himself and his load 
 being equally objects of attention to the curious. 
 
'288 
 
 TRAVELS IN 
 
 It is ever a matter of deep regret to see mea, 
 who profess to be believers in the Gospel of 
 Christy and who have had the privilege of' read- 
 ing it, and judging of irs excellent, debasing 
 themselves by the practice of every mean and 
 sordid vice, allowed by the selfish policy of the 
 world : on the other hand, it is exceedingly pleas- 
 ing to behold those, whom, because they have not 
 had the same privileges, we are ready to designate 
 by the names of Heathens and Inficie^s ; but who 
 by r.garding the law in themselves, become exam' 
 pies of many excellent Christian virtues: Thus 
 manifes.ing that God is no respecter of persons. 
 
 Being favoured once more to set foot on my 
 native land, for whkh I have great cause to be 
 thankful, J. W. and myself walked up to my 
 relation's at 'Mile-end, where we met with a 
 hospitable and alTectionate reception. 
 
 After .spending this night and the forepart of - 
 the following day with them, we set cut in the 
 long coach for Manchester. In observing the 
 extreme oppression exercised upon the poor horses, 
 in these heavy carriages, I found a great draw^ 
 back irom the pleasure which otherwise would 
 have been derived from travelling by land. 
 
 We got safe to Manchester the same evening, 
 whtre we lodged ; and early the next morning, we' 
 
NORTH AMERICA. 28l 
 
 again took coach, and set off for Sheffield, where 
 we were favoured to arrive safe and well in the 
 evening; and I had the heartfelt satisfaction of 
 once more joining my family and friends, after an 
 absence of more than two years. 
 
 In this period I had travelled upwards of ten 
 thousand mil^s, without meeting with any unplea- 
 sant accident. When I consider that in this 
 space I twice crossed the Atlantic Ocean, and 
 that sometimes my way lay through the uncleared 
 forests of America, where I often met with va- 
 rious tribes of what are called Savage Indians, I 
 want language to express the feelings of gratitude 
 which often arise in my breast, for my numerous 
 preservations and unmerited favours. 
 
 riNiSt 
 
 B b 
 
3lt77-l 
 
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
 
 011 290 380 A