Glass .Jrli-^yj Book _'Gei4_ COPYRIGHT DEPOSI I- Digitized by the Internet Arciiive in 2010 with funding from The Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/littlejourneytomOOgeor LS9 k^ ■!i-y/// A LITTLE JOURNEY TO MEXICO FOR INTERMEDIATE AND UPPER GRADES By MARIAN M. GEORGE CHICAGO A. FLANAGAN COMPANY Copyright, 1901 By a. fIvAnagan company A Little Journey to Mexico To travelers just returned from a country where the climate is mild our March weather seems a bit disagreeable. Why not take this time, then, for a little journey to Aztec Land? — a land with a history more fascinating and wonderful than any fairy tale or romance you ever read. There we shall find June days the year round, and snow-covered mountains to use as toboggan slides when we wish a change. We may make our rooms lovely and fragrant with roses and violets gathered from gardens in December, pluck oranges and bananas from trees and eat strawberries every day in the year. In no country in the world should we be able to find a more interesting, picturesque people, more beau- tiful scenery or more novel experiences. Then, too, there is no long ocean voyage, with pos- sible sea-sickness, to be dreaded. A three days' ride in a Pullman car will take us to this country, for it is our next-door neighbor and sister republic — Mexico. Why is it called Aztec Land? Ah, that is a long story, and one I shall not try to tell here. If I should, you would quickly forget it. If I do not, you will 4 A LITTI.K JOl K\in K) MKXICO scurry away to the lil)ran' just as soon as you can and find out for yourselves. And tliat is exactly what I waiil you to do. Youi- teachci- will id! you what hooks to «z:et, for there is a list «ri\(ii in the teachers' edition of the Little Journeys for ihal very purpose. And these histories and stories of Mexico will tell you exactly what you wish 1o know. Hut 1 will «!:ive you just a tiny scrap of history and geography with which to start. A SCRAP OF HISTORY Mexico is sometimes known as Sj)anish North Amer- ica, because the country formerly belonged to Spain. The Spaniards, led by Cortez, came across the Atlantic. conquered the native Indians, and dixidcd the land among themselves. Mexico was ruled by the Spaniards for three hun- dred years, l)ut threw off the Spanish yoke in 183(3 and declared its independence. Since that time the country has had two emperors, Iturbide and Maximilian. But the reign of each was short. The country was in a constant state of revo- lution, and one civil war was followed by another until the election of President Porfirio Diaz in 1877. He brought law and order to the country, has served it wisely and well for twenty years, and is its honored j)resident today. To him more than to any other man connected with the history of .Mexico are due the peace and j)rosperity of the nation. Mexico has a population of about 14. 000.000. Prob- aljlv one-half of these are half-castes, or the descendants A LITTLE JOURNEY TO MEXICO. PRESIDENT DIAZ. G A ]. rn IK .101 KiNtY 10 MEXJt'O of Spanish fathers and Indian iiinihcrs; one-thiixl are puic Indian, and the reniaindiT are of Spanish descent antl fuivi<2;ners. Spanish is ilie lanfj;uag;e of the ma- jority of the people. And !io\v you wish to know iiow and when to go to Mexico, and what j)repai-at ions to make. These are ((uestions wiiieh your map and your own knowledge of Mexico must help \'ou to decide. Let us turn. then, lo the map given in the Little .lourney and see what it tells us. HOW TO QO We must first decide upon our route and make our preparations. There are many ways of reaching Mex- ico, but there is always a best way. See if you can find it . There is one railway which runs from the Rio firande at KI Paso to the City of Mexico, the capital. It passes through fifteen of the twenty-seven states of the republic, reaches e\('ry cily of thirty-five thou- sand or over but five, and a dozen important cities touched by no other line. The princij)al mining regions receive their supplies and export thcii' products o\er it; the most fertile agricultural districts are tapped by it, and the most important manufacturing centers are located on it. Every variety of cliniat(^ and soil exists along its lines. Can you t(>ll me the name of this road? There aic other gateways to Mexico, of course. We might go by way of San Antonio, Texas, or by steamer to Tampico or \'era Cruz, but as our j)arty starts from Chicago we shall probably find it more convenient to go by way of the Atchi.son, TopeRa and Santa Vo i-oad to A LITTLE JOURNEY TO MEXK'O 7 El Paso and take the Mexican Central to the capital, Mexico City. A few days' ride from Chicago will take us to the City of Mexico, and a month will enable us to see a great deal of this wonderful coimtry of which we have heard so much and know so little. WHEN TO GO Is there any reason why we should not go to Mexico in March? Let us see; consult your maps. Mexico lies between the tropics and the equator, and it would seem to be a very warm country. But this is not the case. Can you tell why? Have you considered the altitude? If you will look very carefully at different points on your map you will no- tice figures giving the altitude in various parts of the country. The figures show that most of the cities have a high altitude, and this accounts for the cool climate at these points. The high tablelands and snow-covered mountains also temper the rays of the tropic sun in the lowlands. In the tropics, where the days are hottest, the nights are usually cool. There is little difference in temper- ature between winter and summer, which in those regions are respectively termed the "dr}" season" and the ''wet season." Most tourists visit Mexico during the winter months of January and February, but the country is more at- tractive during the summer or rainy season. This is between Mory and October. At this time of the year it rains almost every day, but the showers alwavs come in the afternoon or even- 8 A LITTLE .lOrRXKY TO MEXICO iiig and arc (juickly ()\'(M-. 'Hie only places we should need to avoid in this season aic I lie cities very near the seacoast and ihosc in low altitudes, ^'cll()\v fever carries olT its \ictiins daily at \'cra Cruz, and causes that city to he much dreaded and ireneially ax'oided hy travelers in summer. But we are to make our liip in Mai'ch, and as Mexico alTords e\-er\' \ariety of wealliei' we shall need l)oth thick and thin clothing — overx'oats for the cold evenings and ulsters for the dry, dusty plains. ()ui- rain-coats and umbrellas ina\' safely ])e left at home at this season of the year. WHERE TO GO \\'here in .\h'\ico shall we go? In one month we cannot \'isit every j)art of the repuhlic. Certain points and representative cities must be selected, whicli will give an idea of the country as a whole. Here again the map should be consulted. I'^rom that we can trace out something of tlu^ geographical features of the land. This will help to determine where we wish to go. Mexico seems to be about one-lift h as large as tho I'nited States. It consists of twenty-seven states and the territory of Lower California. In the nortluMMi states of Mexico we may see the cactus country and herds of cattle on dry plains. If we wish to visit the mines, we shall find them in the centei' of Mexico. The maguay j)lantation may best be seen about the City of Mexico, and along the (lulf is the troj)ical r'cgion. with its coffee. tob;u'co. orange and banana plantations. A I>TTT1>K .lOURNRY TO AIEXTCO Suppose, then, tlmt wo visit the more iinportaiit cities on the line of the Mexican Central Railway, be- tween El Paso and Mexico City, msiking the latter place our headquarters. Short trips and excursions on other lines may bo made from that point. IN AZTEC LAND Southward bound at last! A three days' journey brings us to the Rio Grande, which forms the southern boundary of the United States. Crossing the border to the Mexican town of Ciudad Juarez, we make a stop of an hour to have our bag- gage examined by the Mexican customs officials. Our first glimpse of Mexico is disappointing. We pass through a dry, barren region devoid of any kind of vegetation except the sago brush, cactus and a little coarse grass. Now and then, in some particularly desolate, dusty spot, is a small Indian vil- lage. It consists of a dozen or a hundred low, flat- roofed adobe houses, and a church which towers high above the humble buildings clustering around it. A group of men lounge against the sides of the build- ings or range themselves a- GiANT CACTI loug tho track and look with 10 A LITTLE JOrRXEY TO MEXICO curious eyes al llic train whizziiij^ by. Scantily clad, wrctcluMl l()()kin«r Indian womon are cooking over canij) fires outside tliese huts, or carrying!; water from the ditches near by. But we l)arely jjet a ^hnipse before tiie train speeds on and a new j)iclure presents itself. The mountains ^_i ADOBK HITS come into view, and soon we are wailed in by two ranges which lend a new interest to the landscape. Now we are passing near an inunense plantation or hacienda, as it is known in Mexico. These plantations are owned by very wealthy men. wiio emj)loy on them hundreds of workmen. The buildings belonging to the hacienda are clustered together and are often enclosed within walls or a kind of stockade. The haciendas are divided into farms and ranches. Part of the land is devoted to the raising of grain and the rest serves as pasture for imm3nse herds of cattle, sheep and goats. The latter are cared for by cowboys, who spend their davs in ridin"; about the lanches. If the ranch is not A LITTLE JOURNEY TO MEXICO 11 enclosed by a fence, the cowboy must watch the cattle to see that they do not stray awa}^ If the ranch is enclosed, he has to ride along the line of the fence very often, to see "that it is kept in repair. Sometimes we see the owners of these haciendas riding over their estates and giving orders to their men. Their riding costumes are gorgeous, and in the sash or belt a knife and revolver are sure to be fastened. The railroad does not pass through the cities and towns. These are always a mile or so away from the stations. But from this distance we catch glimpses of stately cathedrals and bright-tinted, flat-roofed build- ings which make us wish to see more of the towns. The Mexican Indians gather at the stations in great numbers at train time^ and it is here that we have our first opportunity to study their dress and personal ap- pearance. They look something like our American In- dians, having black eyes and hair, and copper-colored complexions. But they are only of medium height and are rather stout. The men wear coarse white cotton suits reaching to the knees or a little below. The legs and feet are bare. Most of the Indians wear sandals. This simple substitute for a shoe consists of a sole the size of th3 foot, with leather thongs for fastenings. The overcoat is little worn in Mexico. The serapz takes its place. This article of clothing, worn by men of all classes, is a woolen blanket, often highly colored. Red is most popular, but almost every color is worn. Sometimes the serape is striped and sometimes fig- ured, sometimes fine and sometimes coarse. That used for riding has an opening made in the center and 12 A Li'i'ii.i; .l(»^K\l:^ lo mkxico Mi:XI(A>: INDIANS it is slipped over the liead and allowed lo fall over the body. At other times it is wrapped about the body or folded and thrown over the shoulders. The most important part of a man's costume, how- ever, is his hat, or soinhrero. He hoards his earnings until he secures a fine hat, and then he is content. Xo matter how poor he is, how ragged or hungry, his headgear must be handsome. And these hats often cost a small fortune, or what means a small fortune to the Mexican. The best ones cost from twenty-live to considerably over a huiKhcd dollars. Sombreros are made of felt or straw, and are sugar- loaf shaped, with l^rims from six inches to a foot wide. Some of them have brims eml)roidered with gold or A LITTLE JOURNEY TO MKXICO Ki silver thread, and thick, lieavy gold and silver cords about the crown. The women wear simple dresses of cotton that leave their arms and feet bare. They wear no hats or shoes. Out of doors the head and shoulders are covered with a narrow blue or brown shawl called a rebosa. This A iMKXKAX OP THE Hr:TTi:R CLASS rebosa also serves as a carry-all for babies or bundles, and as a blanket at night. The children at the station look half starved, and are usually dirty and ragged. They come under the car windows and to the platform, and plead in soft, plaintive voices for centavos, and they rarely go away empty-handed. Their parents and numerous relatives crowd around the train and offer jugs of pulque, the Mexican beer, for sale. There are others with baskets of oranges, bananas and queer-looking fruits the names of which 14 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO MEXICO we tlu not know. Platters of eggs, jars of beans, eooked chicken, bread, cakes, tortillas, and glasses of ice are thrust into the windows to tempt us. The more nimble of these vendei-s dart fii*st to one and then to the oilier side of the train, and manage to effect a number of sales. Occasionally a man of the better class of Mexicans appears at the station on horseback, or takes a place in the cars. He wears a tight-fitting suit of dark cloth, embroidered with gold or silver })raid and trimmed with gold ()i- silxcr buttons. These men are, most of them, of Spanish descent, and are the wealthy owners of haciendas or plantations. Sometimes they are accomj)anied by their wives and daughters, who dress just as the ladies of the States do. The firot city of importance is Chihuahua, a famous market for hoi-ses and cattle; but it is not a typical Mexican town, so we decide not to visit it. Jk'low the station of Gutierrey we cross the Tropic of Cancer and enter the Torrid Zone. The line between the two zones is marked 1)\' a j^yr- amid. The country all about here is rich in minerals. All the towns through which we pass are or have been mining towns. Here and there by the roadside the tall chimneys of smelters loom up. Do ^ou know \\hat a smelter is? ZACATECAS Zacatecas is to be our first stopping place. It is said that there is no other city in Mexico which affords so many splendid views. Then, too. Zacatecas is one of the greatest mining towns in the world, and a stop A LITTLK .JOURNEY TO MEXICO 15 here will give us a good opportunity to study silver mining. About nine miles from the city the train begins to climb upward, in zig-zag lines and curves, until we reach a hilltop 8,000 feet above the level of the sea. The city lies in an immense gulch between two mountains and very little of it can be seen from the station. Zacatecas is the capital of the State of Zacatecas, and the center of the richest mining region in Mex- ico. It has a population of about 75,000. The country all about is honeycombed with mines, and these and the tall chimneys of smelters indicate the occupation of a great part of the inhabitants. The city seems to be built on a huge silver platform, for since the discovery of these mines more than a billion dollars' worth of silver has been taken from them. There are no level streets in Zacatecas; they are all up and down hill. They are narrow and badly paved, and the odors that arise from them testify to the fact that they are not well drained. The houses that border the streets are low and fiat- roofed. The walls are covered with plaster tinted a bright red, blue, yellow, or pink, and look decidedly odd to us. These dwellings have no windows looking upon the street; there is nothing to be seen from out- side but the blank walls. Zacatecas has its plaza and cathedral, as have all Mexican towns, these two places usually being the most attractive features of a city. We take seats in the gravity car at the station and 1<> A LI II 1.1, .lot liXK'* 1(» .MKXKO just drop lo tlic market plaza, the force of y climbing, and sometimes on their knees, to the chapel. There are a number of vast old churches, convents now used as hotels, fine public buildings, palaces and bridges. There is a fire department, though it does not seem as though there could be any need of one, the buildings are so massively built and so little wood is used. The city is full of aqueducts, yet suffers for want of water. The water which comes through the aque- ducts is distributed by water carriers who make a regular business of this service. These water venders are picturesque objects, with their large red earthen jars suspended from straps encircling their foreheads — one in front and one be- hind, to balance each other. Some of the men wear leather jackets and have their heads covered with peaked leather caps. The lack of water is the cause of considerable suf- fering among the people of this place, for to its scarcity are due the unclean condition of the streets and the offensive odors; there is much sickness in the city and the death rate is very high. Water is scarce in most Mexican cities, and it may be due to this fact that the majority of the peons have an unwashed appearance. They cannot afford to buy 18 A i.rrri.i; .i()rHxi:v to .Mexico of liic \v;it(M- caiTici- and iiiiisi dcpi'iul onlirely for their water suj)ply upon the (htches, streams, or pubhc fountains. The fountains are usually crowded with women car- ryin'j; water jup:s, patiently waitinii^ their turn. Donk- eys laden with water jars jog along the country roads, WATER CARRIERS and in the mines and mining districts Intuans carry water in pigskins on their hacks. When we expi-ess a desii'e to \-isit the mines and are told of the \va\- in which we should be obliged to reach them, we are discouraged. The descent is made by ladders which are merely notched logs s?t upright. It seems to us an extremely difficult feat, yet the In- A LITTLIO .l()ri{\l'n TO MKXICO 19 (iiaii miners clinil) up and down these rude ladders very nimbly, sometimes carrying loads that weigh almost two hundred pounds. So we content ourselves with a visit to the reduc- tion works, where the ore is crushed and the valuable part separated from the less valuable or worthless. The men who work in the mines and the reduction works are anything but attractive looking. They wear almost no clothing, and in some of the mines none at all, because of the intense heat. They get from thirty to fifty cents a day, and yet they never go on strike. They seem to be quite content, but they will not save anything for the future. The managers find it necessary to watch them very closely and search them when they quit work to make sure that they do not steal any of the silver. The miners are very clever at this, however, and often manage to evade these watchful eyes. AQUAS CALIENTES From Zacatecas we journey on toward Aguas Ca- lientes, through hills and plains, into a rich agricultural region. All about Aguas Calient es lie vineyards, meadows, and fertile, well cultivated fields which yield corn and beans to supply much of the country. "Aguas Calientes" means ''hot waters," and it is from its famous hot springs that the city received its name. The baths are said to be excellent for rheu- matism and other diseases, and this, together with the healthful climate and beaut}^ of the place, has made it popular as a health resort. Aguas Calientes is also noted for its drawnwork, and as this can be bought 20 A i.rri'LK .lorHNKv to Mexico more (.'heaply there tliaii elsewhere in Mexieo, we are prepared to invest some sil\-er. l^-ei-y huly who comes to Mexico wishes to take one or more of these l)eautiful j^ieces of hnen to friends at liomo — a fact of wliieh the peons are' well aware. Long l^efore the train is due Indian men and women throng ihe station, canying bundles of hnen. When the train arrives they rush to the windows and plat- forms, and thrust })ieces of the fancywork into the hands of the passengers. Doilies, napkins, table covers, dresser and sideboard scarfs, and the daintiest linen and lawn handkerchiefs are spread before our admiring eyes. This drawnwork represents days of patient labor on the part of these Indian women, and many eyes are ruined by the close application it requires. This work is done in their own cal)ins and at the schools. Walking past these humble houses we often se(» through the ojxmi tloors the picture shown you on the opposite page. Man>' of the houses ha\-e no glass in ilie windows, but have the openings barred with iron, as do the houses of Cuhix. Beside these windows bird cages liang, and iheir feathered prisoners make the air ring with their clear, sw^et notes. Aguas Calientes is a beautiful little city of 40,000 inhabitants. The people in the ))lace seem to have a special fondness for flowers, wliieh floui'ish every- where. The garden of San Marcos, a |)ublic s(|iiare, is a per- fect wilderness of flowering j)lants. slu-ul)s and trees. Here the oleanders grow to the height of trees, and orange l)lossoms fill the air with their fragrance. Pan- A LTTTLF. JOURNEY TO MEXICO 21 sies, sweet peas, poppies, roses and lilies fairly crowd each other in this and many other gardens of the city. A large number of the houses are of adobe and only one story high, but their bright coloring inside and out and their neat surroundings make the place at- tractive. The prospect of a hot bath after our long, dusty ride is very pleasant, so we ride out to the springs, a couple INDIAN WOMEN AT WORK of miles from the city. The roadway is bordered by a small canal, or walled ditch, which is supplied with water from the springs. Along this canal men, women 9> A LITTLE JOURXEY TO MEXICO A CORNER IN Till; MARKKT and children may be seen washing their clothes and ])athino; at all hours of the day. Sunday is the principal market day hero, and the people for miles around flock into the city, bringuig loads of fruit, vegetables, grain, pottery and other articles for sale. The produce is arranged on straw mats on the ground, in booths, or on long benches. One corner will be devoted to flowers and birds in cages, another to crockery oi- baskets, still another to cotton goods, which are displayed on a string over a table; then there is a space filled with candies, and another with fruits, or perhaps with onions and tomatoes. A LITTLE JOUKNKY TO MEXICO 23 The marketplace occupies a whole square or block, and in and about this the poor Mexican women and men sit or stand patiently for hours, hoping to make a few sales. Sometimes the entire stock of a market- women is worth but a few pennies, and sometimes she sells nothing. One wonders how these people hve. Oranges are offered us for a penny apiece, and a penny will buy us a glass of the popular drink, pulque. Little copper-colored children play about and de- vour pieces of sugar-cane; gaily dressed girls patronize the candy booths, and their plainer, less fortunate sisters flit about in blue and brown rebosas. Ice-cream venders wander about the streets with their trays of cooling wares, and beggars greet us at every corner. The people tell us that it is a great pity we did not come in April, for it is at this time that the feast of San Marcos occurs. This is a celebrated fair, and thousands of people from all over the country attend it. The feast is something like our Thanksgiving and everyone eats turkey. Many curious costumes, and customs may then be seen. GUANAJUATO Southward bound once more, and this time to the most picturesque city in America, Guanajuato. Artists love to linger in this quaint, old-fashioned city, but they can never picture its charm. To reach this place we must leave the main line and take the street cars. The road now winds around among the hills, past some of the greatest silver mines in the world, and many reduction works. The high- 24 A Li'iTiJ-: .lont.NKV vo .Mexico way is crowded with a busy throng, and with long hnes of l)uri"()s hid(Mi wiih jjfccious metal. The city stands in a ravine l^etween high cliffs, as do most mining towns: the honses are built on the edges of terraces or the cliffs wherever there is room. The buildings look as though they were sliding down hill, or just ready to tumble into the valley below. The people reach these hillside homes by climbing from terrace to terrace, up a white stairway leading from the great ravine. These are the better class of houses, and are built of a kind of sandstone, of various colors. In Guanajuato many of the houses are four stories in height and are made extremely attractive by their roof gardens, and balconies covered with flowering vines. Some of the most beautiful homes of all Mexico are to be seen perched on these cliffs. Artificial lakes, ornamental trees and shrubs, plants and vine-cov- ered walls make attractive the tiny level spaces on the hillsides. In the lower part of the town the more humble houses are crowded together. The streets are nar- row, crooked, and steep, and badly paved with cob- ble stones. A carriage is a difficult thing to drive in this place, and it is best to use burros in going about. Guanajuato is what you might call a "smelly" place. There is no system of sewerage, and a great numlier of deaths occur each year. Hut water car- riers are not needed, for the city is supplied with water through ]^ipes, as are our cities and towns. The place l)oasts many fine j)ul)lic l)uildings, among which is a magnificent theater built of green stone. A LITTLE JOURNEY TO MEXICO 25 ^^V" ''•■f*si^l mi jf^BH krB^h l^B^^B^flBGn^Bi^l^^^Plf^l B^BMHSi ---,-f -, ■ 'i-'.vyc . I J .11 .hi T^ ;/■ .'wi^: ^ ■ i mmiM GUANAJUATO This is said to be finer than any structure of its kind in New York. The churches, also, are well worth a visit. One of the most expensive of these had to have a space blasted for it in the hillside. But these things do not interest us so much as the mint and the public pantheon, the city cemetery. The mint is said to turn out more money than any other in Mexico, and is one of the largest and finest in the country. Money is coined here in the same way as in the mints of the United States. A visit to the pantheon is interesting indeed. There 26 A l.riTLK .lorHNKV TO MEXICO are few ^ra\('s licrc. The bodies are for the most deposited in \aiilis huili licr ii})oii tier in the thick of the pantheon. A certiiiu rent is charged for space each; a corpse is allowed to remain five years, and then is taken out, if the rent is not renewed. If the body has l)ecome a mumni}', it is placed upright against one of the arched corridors of the catacombs beneath the cemetery, with rows of other mummies. If only bones remain, they are thrown in a heap upon the floor of the tomb. Guanajuato has been a famous mining center for three hundred years. Wonderful stories are told of the wealth which has been taken from these hills, and the fortunate people who found it. The very streets were paved with silver bricks for squares, for the christ- ening procession of the children of these silver kings. Solid silver altar-railings, weighing tons, were presented to the churches. And the pit}^ of it is that the people who worked the hardest to secure all this wealth got so little of it. Twelve hours each day the miners spend in these mines — six in working, and the other six in going down into the mines and returning. The ascent and descent into these dark tunnels are attended by great danger. One false step may mean death. Yet the miners are glad to have this work. The pay is pitifully small, but they must have food. This food, we find, consists largely of boiled pump- kin, and cornmeal gruel. On Sunday meat is perhaps added, and such meat! — the dried lieads of cattle, sheep and goats! The silver mills have been built as strong as forts. A LITTLE .TOTTRNEY TO I\IE\TfO 27 in order to resist the attack of })an(ls of robbers who are, or at least have been, ready at all times to de- scend upon these treasuries. These bandits are dis- appearing now, however, or have mended their ways. Sometimes we see a body of rurales riding across the countr}^ These men are the country policemen and soldiers who assist in keeping the Indians in subjection and protect the lives and property of peaceful citizens and travelers. They are a fine looking body of men, and are said to be the best horsemen in the world. They are armed to the teeth, and well mounted. Their uniforms are of leather or of light gray woolen cloth, and their belts or sashes of some bright color, usually red. An unusual interest attaches to the rurales from the fact that there is not another military company of men in the world with a history which resembles theirs. For you must know that most of them were formerly robbers and outlaws who preyed upon the traveling public and the wealthy citizens! President Diaz is a very shrewd man. He had faith in the old saying that "It takes a thief to catch a thief." So he invited the leaders of these powerful gangs of bandits together, and held council with them. He asked them how much they made a month as out- laws. They told him. He then asked them if they would not prefer to earn their bread honestly in the service of the government, by serving as soldiers and police. He offered them wages higher than they were in the habit of receiving, if they would abandon their former practices and become useful, loyal citizens. 28 A l.ITTLK .lOURXEY TO MEXICO All ihoso who acfeplt'd were to be pardoned for past offenses. Those who returned to their old oceupation were to be shot at sio:ht, without trial. Many of the outlaws accepted tlie offer, and most of those who refused to do so have been killed or driven from the cotmti-y. ■■ Irnpuatol'" llic coiuluctor calls, and when the train comes to a standstill at this station, we all go out to buy strawberries. Great baskets and little baskets are offered to us at prices ranging from ten cents up. Every day in the year strawberries are offered here for sale, and the famous strawberty farms about the place supply the markets of a great many Mexican towns. A short li dc brings us to Queretaro, the Opal City, one of the most attractive places in the republic, and full of interest to those wdio are acquainted witii the history of Mexico. It was in this cit}' that the treaty of peace between the I'nited States and Mexico was ratified. Here, also, occurred the first meeting of the patriots to take their stand against the King of Spain, and })lan for the in- dependence of Mexico. At this place the Empire of Mexico received its death blow, and the Emperor, Maximilian, was ex- ecuted. • Consulting our guide l)ooks, we find that (Queretaro is the capital of the State of (^uereXaro, and a city of about oO.OOO iiihnbilants. It is an important mamifacturing center for cot- ton goods, leather and leathcrwai'c. and sugar. It has one gf the largest cotton f.-ictot-ics in the coimtry A LIT^IT.K JOURNEY TO MEXICO 29 and perhaps the model one of America. Tiiis is say- ing a good deal. We did not expect to find Mexico ahead of the States in this respect. In this factory over two thousand men are employed. They re- ceive about seventy-five cents a day and work twelve hours out of the twenty-four. This would seem small wages and a long day's work to workmen in the States. But the factory is a "missionary of beauty" to its emploj^ees. It has lovely patios filled with tropical flowers, fountains and fine statues, which cost a great sum to maintain, and the owners think it pays. Queretaro is also noted for its opal mines, which have been worked for centuries and continue to produce great quantities of opals. When we arrive at the sta- tion the natives are there with any number of the gems to sell. They hand the stones through the car windows to the passengers, who are very sure to buy some of the pretty jewels. These opals are not larger than the fourth of your thumb nail, and of different colors. Those sold at the trains are usually defective or worthless. The larger and better gems are not cheap. Leaving the station, we pass under the great aque- duct which supplies the city with water from the mountains. The water comes from a stream about five miles from the city, and is brought through a tunnel and this aqueduct, which is 165 years old. Just after leaving the city we get our first glimpse of the palm tree, and of beautiful groves of orange and lemon trees. The train now passes through grand mountains with lovely valle3's between; crosses a plain and climbs the mountains to an elevation of over 8,000 feet. 'M) A LITTLK .lorH.NKY TO MEXICO A\'li('ii tlic train starts down tho valley toward the City of Mexico we lind places at the windows, to get a view of the great drainage canal begun 294 years ago. This was intended to drain the lakes on the plains of Mexico and j)revent the flooding of the cap- ital. It failed to accomplish its object, and now a tun- nel has l)een built for this purpose. The snow-co\ercd peaks of the volcanoes Popoca- tepetl and "The Lady in White" are soon seen in the distance and we know that in another hour we shall be in Mexico City. THE MAQUAY PLANT As we approach the city of Mexico we pass through miles of maguay plantations. Do you know what the maguay is? In the United States we call it the cen- tury plant, and use it to ornament our lawns. To the Mexican people it is useful rather than orna- mental. It furnishes them with everything from a needle to a housetop, with food, drink and fuel. The roots are cooked for food; the leaves dried and used to shingle houses; from the fiber of the leaf is obtained thread from which cloth, twine, rope, and paper are made, and the whole plant serves for fuel. The rope is braided into mats to be used for chairs and beds. We often see these mats in the market- place, with piles of oranges, bananas, and other fruits and vegetables piled upon them. The maguay is sometimes called "the needle and thread plant." Along the edges of the fleshy leaves are slender thornlike needles. If one of these needles is desired, all one has to do is to push it backward A LITTLE JOURNEY TO MEXICO 31 into its sheath and then pull it from its socket. It comes forth, bearing with it many tiny fibers. If the needle is twisted as it is pulled out the fine fibers unite and make a strong thread, which is attached to the needle all ready for use. But the plant is valued most for the juice it yields. This is called honey water, and from it is made pulque, the national drink. The Mexicans are very fond of this beverage and thousands of barrelfuls are used daily in the City of Mexico alone. The drink is mildly intoxicating, but not so much 80 as beer. The pulque shops are often gaily decorated with pictures and flowers, but these are not necessary to announce the existence of such resorts. The odor that greets the passer-by betrays their presence in the neighborhood. The shops are usually crowded with ragged, idle people, but at six o'clock in the evening they are closed. Would you like to see how this pulque is gathered? Then look at this man in the field where the maguay plants are growing. See these long, straight rows of hugh plants stretching away in every direction. Many of the leaves must be at least ten feet high and a foot in breadth. In another part of the field are some much smaller plants — young ones that were but tiny slips when set out. They need little or no care while growing, but require from seven to ten years to mature. The maguay blossoms but once and then dies. The flower stalk, which comes from the center of the veg- etable, rises to a height of from twenty to thirty feet and is covered with hundreds of yellowish blossoms. io A LIl^l'LE JOUUXEY TO MEXICU rUK MAGLAN I'LANl The plant is seldom allowed to blossom, however. The peasants watch it very carefully in the spring when the flower stalk is ready to appear. At the right time the heart or center of the stem is cut out. leaving a hollow as large around as a wash bowl or basin, and about two feet deep. The sap which the plant has stored to nourish the flower flows at oiicc" inio this depression and soon tills it ; the collector must empty it twoor three times a day. The collector can-ies a loiii;-. lliin ^ioui'd. which he places in the hollow of the j)lant. He applies his lips to one end of the gourd and extracts the sap by suc- tion. It is then placed in ;i pigskin hanging over his shoulder, oi- in jafs on ilic l)a('k of his donkey. A LITTLK JOURNEY TO MEXICO 33 The pigskins are emptied into vats and the sap al- lowed to ferment, when it is called pulque. A pulque train goes daily to the city to supply the demand. It is not difficult to recognize' these trains. The odor announces the contents of the cars. A maguay plant yields from eight to fifteen pints daily for a period of three or four months, and then dies. As a plant is valued at from ten to twelve dol- lars, a maguay "plantation is a valuable piece of property. MEXICO CITY Mexico City at last! A reception committee of something like a hundred cabmen meet us at the sta- tion and greet us noisily. We do not need to ask the fare. This is indicated by the color displayed on the cabs. Each vehicle has a small blue, red, or yellow flag, which shows the class of the carriage, and its price. We have been told that the most popular hotel for Americans is the Hotel Iturbide, and when we drive to its doors, we find it to be a palace, which was once oc- cupied by Emperor Iturbide, of Mexico. It is altogether unlike any hotel we have ever seen before, and the patio or court, through which we pass, is exceedingly interesting. Our rooms are furnished much like hotel rooms in the States. Those opening on the courts on the sunny side are very pleasant in the daytime. But as they are not supplied with heat, the evenings spent in them are cheerless and cold. It is necessary to keep our wraps on while sitting in the house, A^et out in the sunshine of the streets half of the people are going about with bare heads, arms and feet. 34 A LITTL1-: .lOlH-XKY I'o MKXK'O I'AlKi i)F JIOTKL ITrRHIDK Wo find no mat dies and soaj) in oui' I'oonis, and arc intoinicd thai we must pi-oxidc these things for our- selves. When we go out to ))ur('hase them we find it rather chflicuH to make our way throuirh the streets. It is kite in the afternoon and the narrow sidewalks A LITTLIO .lOrilNEY 'I'O .MKXICO .'^5 arc crowded. Each block of a street lias a difTereiit name, and when one is not acquainted with this fact, it is easy to miss the way. The names of the saints are often given to streets in Mexico, as is sometimes done in other Roman Cath- ohc countries. The streets are narrow, but most of them are well paved and kept clean by sweepers. The stores of Mexico have fancy names, as do those of Cuba. But the red flag here indicates a butcher shop and not an auction store. The windows are very attractive from the streets and much like the shop windows at home, but on entering drygoods stores we find few goods displayed on the shelves or in glass show cases. Everything is packed carefully away in boxes, and if we wish to see an article we must ask for it. In all the large stores and in many of the small ones we find salesmen who can speak a little English. Everything seems very expensive at first, but when we remember that a dollar here really means but fifty cents of our money, prices do not seem so extravagant. Then, too, Mexico is not a manufacturing country. Most of the articles for sale have been imported from the States or from Europe, and this adds to the cost . The matches we buy, however, are made in Mexico, and the smallest boxes cost but a cent, or centavo. These matches are said to be the best in the world. They are very tiny and ignite at both ends. Some of them are made of wax in place of wood, and in light- ing these we find it best to hold the lighted end up- right if we want a quick blaze. Many of the native merchants carry their stock about with them, in their hands or on their heads or 36 A LITTLE JOURXEY TO MEXICO hacks or shoulders. They make their sales while wan- dering- up ;iiid down t he streets, or [\wy find a conven- ient place in the street or road or on the sidewalk, and spread their wares there. These street inerchanls are a constant source of in- terest to us. There goes a pottery vender now, and not far behind is a basket seller, literallv covered with A BASKKT VKNDKK baskets, which seem to be fastened to him with strings. There are men and women with trays of fhdccs, very fancifull}' colored, but these Mexican sweetmeats are not so good as they look and do not tempt us who have tried them before. Occasionally we meet a bird seller in a sheltered corner of the street, with a tiny brown bird perched on his finger. Other captives are kept in small wicker A LITTLE JOURNEY TO MEXICO 37 cages of his own manufacture, which are shing over his shoulders. He places the little creatures on our* hands to prove to us how very tame they are, and they show no desire to get away. And there goes a man with a bag of charcoal, and another with a basket of oranges, and near by, in an alley, a poultry merchant. A crate of live turkeys is slung from his shoulders and a couple of fowls are held in his hand. Flower sellers with bas- kets of violets meet us every block or two and offer us huge bunches of violets at ridiculously low prices. There is one vender or pedler who is more per- sistent than all the others — the lottery ticket seller. These venders we meet at every street corner, at every hour of the day or night. Some are men, some are women and some children. The majority of them, we are told, are thieves, who make this business a cloak for their real business of pilfering. The lottery is very pop- ular in Mexico and is a regular institution of the coimtry. The government sometimes runs the lottery itself, and realizes a large revenue from the business. Every one A FOWL VENDKR 38 A i-ini-i: .iourxey to Mexico seeiiLs to })atroiiiz(' it— the \Hn)V as well as the rich, the business man as well as liic idler and gambler. MaiiN peons are employed as porters, and it is not an uncommon sijrht to see them carry barrels of wine, hug;e piecesof furniture, or even pianos, through the streets. The first morning of our stay in the capital we are awakened by the clanging of many bells; it is time for early ma.ss. We hasten out and join the crowds u})on the street, for we are anxious to see the great cathedral, of which we have heard so mucli. In Mexico Sunday is a holiday, and is not observed as in the States. The places of amusement are all kept open and the Mexican goes from morning mass to the bullfight in the afternoon, or the theater in the evening. Every Mexican town has its central plaza or public scjuare and its cathedral. Sometimes there are a number of these plazas, and an alamcda or small park. The cathedral usually faces the central })laza. This is the case with Mexico City. The grand plaza is in the heart of the city. In the plaza is a little flower garden, and great trees all about lend their shatle to the crowds that gather in this tiny park. A bandstand is in the center of the plaza, and our guide tells us that everj^ Sunday morning and during the evenings of the week the militar\- band plays here of the poorer classes. The Alameda, a j)ark near by, is frequented chiefly by the better classes, and there is nuisic there, also, on Sunday. Every city and town has its bandstand in the plaza and music provided ])y the government, two or three evenings of each week. The music is of the best, too, A LITTLK .lOURNEY TO INIKXICf) :]0 for the Mexican people are natural musicians, and among them are found some of the finest musical per- formers in the world. The cathedral is on the west side of the plaza, facinii; east. It is the largest place of worshi[) in Amei'ica, THE ALAMEDA— CITY OF MEXICO and the richest in the world. It is built in the shape of a Greek cross, and within its walls are found, not one but many chapels. The cathedral is always open, as Roman Catholic churches are everywhere, so we may enter at our pleas- ure. People are passing in and out of its doors con- stantl3^ Inside the building are the kneeling figures of men and women, for mass is said in the cathedral every hour. 40 A LITTLE .lorUXKY To MFA'ICO The «!;i'aiiiU' walls uf lliis cclilice cusl two million dollars, and it is magnificent, both within and without. It is said to have more ^o\d and silver on and about its altars than any other church hi the world. The great railings around the altars are of solid silver, and the lofty candlesticks are of gold. The dome is painted with figures illustrating Bible stories, and many rare and valuable paintings hang upon the w^alls. At one time this church possessed wealth almost V)e- 3'ond calculation, but it was taken awa}'. The churches of Mexico owned so much of the wealth of the country that the government feared their in- fluence with the people. So a great deal of the church property was confiscated and many convents and mon- asteries \vere closed, or sold to be used for various purposes. That is the reason that some of these fine old buildings are now used for hotels and schools. Let us climb the stairs that lead to one of the towers, for a birdse^'e view of the cit}'. The ascent is a long and tiresome one, for it takes us two hundred feet above the ground. But we feel repaid for the trouble when we see the city spread out before us like a map. We are in the midst of a beautiful valley, sin-rotmded by mountains. Just outside the city are green fields and plains, dotted with lakes, and be3'ond that the mountains that shut in the valley. From this ])ositi()n we get a fine view of the snow- covered peaks of Popocate])etl and his companion, the ''Woman in White." West of the cathedral is a hill crowned b}^ the Castle of Chaj)ultepec. To the north is another liill on which is biiill the famous Church of Cluadalupc. A LITTLE JOURNEY TO MEXICO 41 And what a host of church towers raise their lofty spires above the houses of the city! The towers of forty-six large churches may be counted, besides that of the cathedral. The religion of the people is Roman Catholic, and this accounts for the 127 fine church buildings to be found in the capital. It is eas}^ from this position to see the plan upon which the city is built. The streets run from north to south, and from east to west. They all seem to lead to the plaza. South of the city is the lake which, through aque- ducts, supplies the place with water — Lake Charles. On the east is Lake Tezcuco. Mexico City is built on a plain surrounded by moun- tains. Formerly the drainage was poor, but recently a large sewer was built through the mountains at great expense. This will reduce the death rate of the city very much. On the eastern side of the plaza stands the National Palace, the largest building of its sort in the world. It is low, but very broad, covering more acres of land than any other place in existence. It is not at all a fine looking structure, but it is an important one. It is here that the laws of the country are made, and here President Diaz holds audiences and makes his home at times. The building also contains the chief offices of the government, and a weather bureau and observatory. On Monday morning all the idle, curious and pleas- ure-seeking people of Mexico come to the Grand Plaza to hear the band play and see the president review the troops before the National Palace. A LITTLK JOrilXKY TO .MKXH'O 43 On the upper l);ilc()ny sit the president and iiis ofli- cers in brilliant iniiforms. Hundreds of men and women and children crowd about the square, watching the proceedings. After each regiment has paraded for an hour before the admiring eyes of the multitude, it is given permission to withdraw, and marches back into the country, whence it came. The Mexican soliders are very insignificant-looking little men. The mere exertion of carrying their ])ig muskets seems to tire them. They tramp about the country from town to town, and with them go their wives and children. The march is often long and hard for all, for when the children tire the father takes them up in his arms and carries them. The patient wife tramps along at his side, carrjdng a huge bundle of clothing and provisions on her head. When night comes the straggling soldiers go into camp, and the women make fires and prepare the poor meal. The western and southern sides of the plaza are made up of broad porches called portales. These ex- tend over the fashionable stores and fine shops, being supported by columns with arches between. These porches are turned into booths or bazars by day, but at night the merchandise disappears, and homeless Mexicans make them a resting place for their wear}^ heads. Just east of the cathedral we find the National Museum, which contains a collection of antiquities of interest to every traveler. Here are relics of the races inhabiting Mexico before the present race ex- isted, and among these curiosities are many old idols. One of the treasures of this museum is Iho Calendar 44 A LITTLE JOI'RXEY TO MEXICO Stone of tlic Aztecs — a huge circular stone covered with characters that no one has ever been able to de- cipher. Near the plaza is the national pawn-shop. This is a very old institution, having been established more than a hundred and fifty years ago. It was founded in the hope of relieving from the greed of the ordinary pawn-shops the }:)oor and those in temporary need. A loan approaching the value of the article pawned is made. If the pledge is not redeemed within a stated time the article is sold. Almost everything that can be thought of is brought here. As there are many rare and beautiful objects that can be bought cheaper here than in the stores, it is a favorite shoj)ping place for many. Now let us walk over to the flower market, adjoin- ing the cathedral. If we had been there at sunrise we should have seen the Indians coming in with their lovely, fragrant burdens, from the little towns around Mexico City, and from the Viga Canal. As we walk about among the flowers and examine the many beautiful species, a dozen peons crowd around us and thrust huge bunches of blossoms into our faces. Flowers here are ridiculously cheap. A few pennies will buy a bushel, and how can we carry so many? But wo need not worry long about that. A bright-eyed, ten-year-old Indian boy is ex])ectantly waiting near by, with a basket in his hand, lie will carry our flowei*s for a small fee; what is more, he in- sists on doing so. Mexico is surely the land of flowei-s. Nowhere have we seen such cpiantities of blossoms. They are re- A LITTLE JOURNEY TO MEXICO f. 45 THE THIEVES MARKET markable alike for their size, and for the richness and purity of their coloring. One corner of this market is devoted to birds, and here we find numberless parrots, cardinals with beau- tiful red plumage, canaries, both brown and yellow, mocking birds, humming birds, and many others the names of which we do not know. A policeman stands at every cross corner, but our guide cautions us to be watchful of our pockets, as Mexico City is noted for its expert thieves. Tourists are very apt to lose watches, pocketbooks, handker- chiefs and other small articles carried within sight or reach of the petty thief, 4(i A LITTLK .FOCHNKY TO MF:XIC0 A\'(' Mi'c iiiiicli iiilcrcstcd lo licar ihal there is in the cily ;i |il:icc known as the ThieNCs" >hirket. and we de- cide to \isit tliis uni(|ue institution. When we in- ([uire wliy the authorities allow the thieves to dispose MARKF.TrLACE fFrorn "To Nassau, (Julia and Mexico," by the Ward Line Steambtiip (,'o.) of their |)hnKler in this pubhc fashion the ii;uide shrugs his shoulders and says, ''Qnicn sabc?'' (Who knows?) Sunday seems to be a favorite day for the Mexiean people to do theii- marketing, and many of them go diiectly to the market from church. One of the principal markets is south of the cathe- dral. The markets aie interesting to every tourist. There one can see the fruits of the tropics, not far away; all the vegetables and flowers of the country; })Oultry, meats, crockery or pottery, and even drygoods. There are beans, ])eas, green corn, tomatoes, water- melons, squashes, Chile peppere, and fruits without number. A LITTLIO JOURNEY TO MEXICO 47 These are arranged very much as was the produce for sale in the markets of other cities we have visited, but the marketplace itself is much larger. Not far from our hotel and the central plaza is the Alameda, a beautiful little park of which we have already spoken. We find it a very pleasant place to spend a part of the da}^; stone seats are provided for those who wish to rest and listen to the fine music; and there are walks among the trees for others. Carriages are constantly driving by to the Paseo — the fashionable driveway of Mexico City. It is a road THE PASEO which leads from the city out to the hill called Chapul- tepec, on which the castle is built. This drive is about three miles long, very wide, and is shaded on 48 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO MEXICO either side by great trees. There is a promenade, also, with stone benches, and at re<2;ular intervals beds of flowers, and statues. From five o'clock until dark this roadway is thronged with carriages and men on liorseback, and on Sun- days the poorer peo]3le walk along the roadside or rest on the benches. There are many fine horses and carriages in the pro- cession that files down San Francisco Street about dark, and the horsemen attract special attention with their elal)orate trappings. Their saddles and bridles cost a small fortune, and their suits are equall}' fine. MEXICAN HOMES AND HOME LIFE There are many kinds of dwellings in Mexico, but the same style of architecture is employed that we have seen in Cuba and Puerto Rico. There are palaces and there are huts of sun-dried bricks and mud. There are structures of hay and reeds, and others built of branches of trees covered with leaves, and the poorest of them all oftentimes cover the happiest people. Everything alwut these Mexican houses is so dif- ferent from what we have been accustomed to, that we find them a constant source of surprise and interest. The Mexican home does not appear a very cheerful place from the outside. It looks to us much like a prison. High stone walls surround it. and the win- dows have heavy iron bars across them. Such safe- guards were necessary at one time, because of the rol:)bers that infested the land. The robbers have been driven from the country now, but the people continue A LITTLE JOURNEY TO MEXICO 49 to construct their dwellings just so, because their fore- fathers (lid. The houses are built close to the sidewalks, and are usually two or three story buildings, with flat roofs HOMES OF COUNTRY PEONS and thick walls. The walls are of stone, but some of them are covered with plaster, tinted a delicate pink, blue, salmon, yellow or cream color. In the city the houses have windows overlooking the street, and small balconies where the ladies of the household sit and watch the passers-by. Suppose we enter one of these homes. The front door is amazing in size. You could not move it if you tried with all your might. The doorway is large enough to admit a locomotive with a train of cars. OU A Ll'ITLi: .lUrUNEY l<) MEXICO But it is not necessary for us to touch the door. A servant stands near to ^uard the entrance, day and nip:ht. He admits us now and we pass throufi;h a pas- sage to a court or patio. Antl what a pleasant contrast to the gray, cold walls outside! Sometimes, in walk- ing about the city, we have caught glimpses of beautiful gardens through half-open doorway's. But we have never before \entured beyond the heavy carved doors so jealously guarded from curious, inquisitive eyes — and robbers. The house is built in the form of a hollow square. In tlu^ center of the building is a courtyard or patio. If the house is large there may be more than one court. Sometimes it is paved with tiles, or brick, or stone, and then, again, it may be carpeted with grass. But almost always it is made attractive with trees and plants and flowering vines. In the center is a well — or it may be a fountain — and all about the courtyard are cages of singing birds. The windows of the house open out on this court and here is the favorite playground of the children and the gathering place of older meml^ers of the family. A porch or gallery extends around the patio. The porch is supported by heavy columns, covered with vines. This sheltered nook makes a cool retreat fromthe heat of the sun, and the noonday meal is often eaten in its shade. The first, or lower floor, of the house is used for the kitchen, store rooms, stables and servants' quartei'S. In order to reach the pailor we climb up a stone stair- case, which leads us to a gallery running around the second story. The parlor, recej)tion room and bed- rooms are upon the second Hoor. A LITTLE JOURNEY TO MEXICO 51 The rooms have very high ceilings and some of them frescoed walls. The floors are of tile, stone or cement. Let us enter the parlor. The floor is carpeted and the furniture upholstered. There are two large arm chairs, smaller chairs and a sofa arranged stiffly around the walls. There are lace curtains at the barred win- dows, but no pretty bookcases, no tables covered with papers and magazines, no cozy corners, or pictures. It appears rather bare to us, and in the evenings, which are quite cold, these large rooms seem very cheerless. Are you curious to know what a kitchen is like in one of these homes? Then come with us. The Mex- ican lady who is our hostess tells us that we need not expect to see a stove. There is no such thing in her house, nor, indeed, in any of her neighbors' houses. We find the kitchen dark and scantily equipped. In place of a stove there is a raised bank, or wall, of adobe about three feet high, two feet wide and five or six feet long. In this cooking range are depressions in which are little fires of charcoal. These fires are cov- ered with earthen pots and jars. Several vessels are placed over each fire. Glancing at the contents, we find beans, onions, tomatoes, soups and meat. There is no chimney in this kitchen, and, so far as we can see, little use for one, as no smoke comes from the fires. The fumes from the charcoal escape through an opening in the roof over the range and through the open door. Families do not make their own bread, and griddle cakes, waffles, and muffins are unknown. Pies, tarts, and cakes are seldom found on the table of the Mexican, but many fruit beverages are used. D'J A LITTLK .lOlKXEV TO MEXICO Tlic l)rcakfasl cunsists of a cui) of coffee, or clioco- late, with bread, and this is often served in the bed- rooms. In Mexican homes there is no fixed hour for the meal. Xo two meml)ers of the family are expected to take this first breakfast together. At twelve o'clock the family meets at a second breakfast, which r-orresponds to oui" dinner. This is the important meal of the day. Much ceremony is observed in serving this and the evening repast. Xo two dishes are served at once, and considerable time is spent at table, especially at the midday meal. During the dinner hour, from twelve to three, many of the business houses are closed. Most of the ])usi- ness is transacted during the forenoon. After dinner comes the nap, and afternoon hours are often em- ployed in recreation. There are many servants in these homes, for the mis- tress does no work. Her time is devoted entirely to her faniil}', her church, and to her social duties. These latter are somewhat different from those of ladies of the States. There are no receptions, teas, club meetings, or lectures for the Mexican women to at- tend. Spanish Mexicans have dark eyes and hair, and dark complexions. The men are intelligent, refined, and courteous, and those of the higher class are well educated. The women ai'e delicate looking, graceful, and some of them very beautiful, l)ut they are indolent and not fond of books or study. Black is the favorite color with married women and is much worn by both women and children for attendance at church. A LITTLE JOI'RNEY TO MEXICO .).i A MEXICAN GIRL SPINNING But on the street, driving, and at balls, the theater, and bullfights, very bright colors and gay costumes are worn by both men and women. Women of the higher class often wear the black lace mantilla to mass in the morning and the white lace scarf in the evening ; but the hat or bonnet is usually worn in the afternoon upon the street or in the carriage. The women of the middle class wear a black woolen shawl, which they wrap about the head and shoul- ders. The young girls or ladies of the better class are not allowed to walk out alone. They are always accom- panied by a relative or a servant. 54 A LITTLK .lOlKM-.Y TO MEXICO ^'ounii women are not eniployecl l)v business houses in Mexico, if we except an occasional shop girl. Xo occupalion is open to tlieni except teaching. If poor, they must he content to do sewing, or with positions as servants. When you ai-e introduced to a Mexican he places himself at your orders, and tells you that his house is your home. Of course, he does not mean this. It is merely a courteous way of telling you he would be {jleased to have you call. The Mexicans are not a hospitable people, however, except when living on haciendas, far from the cities. Toiu'ists, or people remaining in the country but a short time, seldom have an opportunity to see any- thing of the home-life of the people of the better classes. In order to do this one must come well provided witli letters of introduction. Once admitted to a Mexican home, the stranger is made one of the family circle. If he happens to ex- press an admiration for anything he sees in the house, no matter what, he is immediately told that it is his. But to accept anything so offered would be a great breach of etiquette. It is not expected that he will take anything given in this extravagant fashion. But nowhere in the world will you find the people more polite and courteous than in Mexico. Our atten- tion is called to this every day. A Mexican never en- ters a door or passes up a staircase ahead of his guest, never precedes his companion if the latter is older or ranks higher than him.self. Every man in Mexico .seems to smoke, and among the lower classes the women and children smoke also. A LITTLE .lOTRNEY TO MEXICO 55 Smoking is permitted in all the restaurants and hotels, in the theaters, shops, on the trains and street cars, and in fact almost everywhere. Even the shopkeeper who sells you an opal ring will smoke while making the sale. Would you like to go to the top of this fine house for a view of the city? The roof is flat, as are the A PUBLIC LAUNDRY roofs of all the other houses. The walls are built around the edges of the platform, and in warm weather people frequently sleep on their housetops. Over many of the houses are the family washings hanging to dry. There is no danger of soot, because you see there are no chimneys, and consequently no smoke. Chimneys are not needed, for the houses 56 A T.ITTT.E .lOrRXEY To .MEXICO are lieatcd witli cliarcoal, if they are warmed at all, wliic'li is iiol very often. Tlie Mexican people think that heated houses are not healthful. Some of the lar