PN 3155 ,B8 Copy 1 ]^1ew York: Pick $ JiTZ^ERyan, fuBLipHER^. ^4 v ; : Library of Congress.' Chap.. Shelf.. :r^UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. <~\pi BURTON'S AMATEUR ACTOR, A COMPLETE GUIDE TO PEIYATE THEATRICALS. GIVING PLAIN DIRECTIONS FOR ARRANGING, DECORATING AND LIGHTING THE STAGE AND ITS APPURTENANCES; WITH RULES AND SUGGESTIONS FOR MOUNTING, REHEARSING, AND PERFORMING ALL KINDS OF PLAYS, PARLOR PANTOMIMES, AND SHADOW PANTOMIMES. ILLUSTRATED WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS, AND INCLUDING A SELECTION OF ORIGINAL PLATS, WITH PROLOGUES, EPILOGUES, k By C. E. BURTON. NEW YORK: DICK & FITZGERALD, PUBLISHERS, No. 18 Ann Stbeet„ Trt3i rf Entered according to Act of CongTess, in the year 2876, by DICK & FITZGERALD, in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at "Washington, D. C PBEFACE. It was the original intention of the Publishers to reproduce an English hand-book, written by " An Old Stager/' for the instruc- tion and guidance of amateurs. On careful examination, how- ever, it was found to contain considerable matter which an American tyro might fail to appreciate ; and it appeared, also, notably deficient in many important and necessary points of detail. It was preferred, therefore, to place the whole matter in able and experienced hands for thorough revision and adaptation, and the result is embodied in this little volume, which will, it is hoped, be found a complete and serviceable aid to the aspiring amateur actor. The difficulties usually experienced in the selection of plays for performance have been greatly lessened by the introduction, at the close of the volume, of a list of Farces, Comedies, etc., specially adapted for Amateur Parlor Performance, with a short description of the characters in each. 00 NTENTS. PAGE. HOW TO FORM AN AMATEUR COMPANY 7 THE MANAGER 7 THEATRICAL MUSIC 9 GENERAL ARRANGEMENTS 9 RULES EOR AN AMATEUR COMPANY 10 HOW TO ARRANGE A STAGE 12 eoldlng-door proscenium 14 Draped Proscenium 15 Framed Proscenium 17 The Stage 19 "Wings on Side Scenes. 21 Scenes 21 Green Curtain 22 Drop Curtain 22 Lighting the Stage 24 Colored Mediums for Eoot-Lights 25 Calcium-light Effects 26 Colored Eires 27 HOW TO PAINT THE SCENES 28 HOW TO PRODUCE STAGE EFEECTS 39 Moonlight and Lightning 39 Thunder, Rain, Wind, etc 40 Eires, Fountains, etc 41 Sunrise, Sunset, Ghosts, etc 42 Gauze Drop Curtains 43 PROPERTIES 43 Furniture 43 Banners, Shields, etc 44 Armor, Flowers, Implements, etc 45 CONTENTS. HOW TO MAKE UP DRESSES 45 Useful Hints on Coloe and Contrast 46 Wigs, Beards, etc 48 ON "MAKING UP" 49 Imitation of Various Faces 50 Nigger "Make Up" 51 .. 58 Moors and Red Indians 52 .. 58 Characteristic Dresses 52 to 59 GENERAL DIRECTIONS ON ACTING 59 The Passions Portrayed 63 Attitude, and Stage Business 64 Entrances and Exits 65 PREPARING FOR THE PERFORMANCE 68 Plots and Effects 71 Prologues . 74 Epilogues 78 SELECTION OF PLAYS 80 AFamilyFix 80 ThePhilopena 99 PARLOR PANTOMIME 119 General Directions 119 Love Under Obstacles - .121 SHADOW PANTOMIME 128 How to Arrange the Curtain — » 129 How to Manage the Light 130 Position of the Body, etc 132 Stage Action . . . : 133 How to Make Scenery 1 34 Costumes and Properthss 135 The Feejee Islanders at Home 136 SELECTED PARLOR PLAYS 142 BURTON'S AMATEUR ACTOR. HOW TO FORM AN AMATEUR COMPANY. Some active spirit usually sets the ball moving in the matter of getting up Private Theatricals. Now it is well for such a one to consider beforehand which of his ac- quaintances, male and female, are gifted with the kind of intelligence, vivacity or personal appearance that will best meet the requirements of his scheme, before he asks any one to join his company, for on a judicious primary selection success often depends. As the original members of an Amateur Company usually consider they hold pre- ferential rights over those that join afterwards, the import- ance of selecting those who seem to possess the greatest amount of dramatic talent becomes palpably evident ; so the founder of a company should look far a-field before he commits himself by any invitation to enrollment. The se- lection of acquaintances having been carefully and thought- fully made, and the assent of each person obtained, it be- comes necessary to call all the members together, for the purpose of properly organizing the company. This meet- ing is usually held at the house of the person who is dis- posed to place rooms at disposal for giving the entertain- ment. THE MANAGER. The first step is to select an Acting Manager, whose duties are to advise on the judicious selection of plays, train the members to the proper execution of their several parts, and act as chairman at their necessary meetings, 8 THE MANAGED rehearsals ; etc. It is palpable that the Acting Manager should be one possessiDg some literary attainments and ex- perience with the modern stage; not necessarily a profes- sional actor— far from it — but one familiar with the proper representation of plays and stage business. This implies that he should be a senior in the Company, possibly one more disposed to guide his juniors than take " a part"; at any rate, one whose authority, on all occasions, would be undisputed. Next in election should be a Stage Manager, to whom should be delegated the arrangement of the stage, the production of the scenes, properties and effects. This office should be filled by one possessing mechanical and artistic tastes and acquirements. He should direct in the absence of the Acting Manager. The Acting and Stage Managers should work in unison in carrying out the arrangement of the stage at dress rehearsals and on nights of performance. The office of Prompter is better filled, in an Amateur Company, by the Acting Manager, who, by drilling his actors, not only becomes familiar with each play, but with individual shortcomings, so that he is ever on the alert to prompt those who are most likely to require his aid. It need hardly be said that his prompts should be given sotto voce. The distribution of parts among the Company must be left wholly, or at least mainly, to the judgment of the Acting Manager, who should assign the va- rious parts to the different actors solely with reference to their several abilities and individual fitness, avoiding even the suspicion of favoritism. There are almost always, when the parts are distributed, some grounds for dissatisfaction and jealousy, real or imaginary, which only the strictest im- f partiality on the part of the Acting Manager can prevent from being the commencement of discord. In small Amateur Companies, the duties of both Acting and Stage Manager are usually fulfilled by one person, who is manager of the whole, in order to insure uniformity and smoothness in mounting the plays ; but where the actors are more numer- GESTEEAL AEEAXGEMENTS. 9 ous, and the scenery and properties are more pretentious, the Acting Manager will have his hands full enough by attending to the rehearsals, etc., leaving the details of tho stage to be cared for by the Stage Manager. THEATEICAL MUSIC. Music is a very necessary accessory to theatrical repre- sentations ; not only for filhng up time between change of scenes, and as accompaniment to songs, choruses, etc., but in adding to the effect of stage business j as, when sleep gradually steals over a person— a murderer creeps towards his victim— the moment of the deadly blow— the slow de- velopment of a phantom — the raging of a storm, etc. A piano, drum, cornet and violin will form a respectable or- chestra for Private Theatricals. Amateur performers on these instruments can generally be found who are willing to join the Company, otherwise professional musicians should be engaged. In either case, the musicians must act according to the instructions of the Acting Manager, and be especially attentive to the requirements of all stage business. Other instruments may be added, where attain- able, as long as the orchestra does not become too big for 1 the room the performances are given in. The orchestra should be placed in any convenient position that will not intercept the full view of the stage from the auditorium. A code of signals should be established between the Prompter and the Leader of the Band. GENERAL ARRANGEMENTS. The funds necessary for covering the expense of fitting up the stage, scenery, properties, effects, fighting, etc., are matters to be adjusted according to the special circum- stances attending the formation of each Company. Whether it be determined that the dresses shall be home- made, or supplied by a costumer, each member should provide the dress assigned to his or her part, accurately 10 RULES FOR AN AMATEUR COMPANY. made according to the design provided by the Stage Manager. The Members of every Amateur Company formed must distinctly understand — whether their parts be prominent or subordinate — that, in the interests of unity of design and perfect organization, so necessary for the proper working of any performance, they must be punctual to all appoint- ments made for rehearsals, etc., master their parts per- fectly, and obey willingly every direction of the Acting Manager, who must be regarded as undisputed com- mander-in-chief of all the forces. KULES FOR AN AMATEUR COMPANY. The annexed rules are of course subject to modification, but will form a sound basis whereon to work efficiently. [Title.] THE AMATEUR THESPIAN'S. I. — That this Club be called the Amateur Thespians. II. — That the Club be composed of Acting Members and Hon- orary Officers (to be known as "the Company"), and Patrons. III. — That the business of the Club be conducted by an Acting Manager, a Stage Manager, a Secretary and Treasurer. IY. — That every Acting Member shall pay an entrance fee of , and a monthly subscription of '-, to be paid in advance, and every Patron (Subscribing Yisitors to the Auditorium) an annual subscription of not less than . Y.— (a.) That ladies or gentlemen desirous of joining "the Company" be introduced by members at any Ordinary Meeting, and elected by ballot at the next Ordinary Meet- ing. Three black balls to exclude. (b.) That ladies or gentlemen be enrolled as Patrons on their being approved by two-thirds of the Company present at any Ordinary Meeting. YI. — That if any member be desirous of resigning, such person must give one month's written notice to the Secretary at the time of paying the monthly subscription. RULES FOR AN AMATEUR COMPACT. 11 Til.— That the Officers of this Club be elected annually, at a General Meeting of the Company called for the purpose. Till. — That all entrance fees, subscriptions, fines, etc., be paid to the Secretary, who shall give a receipt for same, and . periodically pay over ail cash so received to the Treasurer. IX. — That all scenery, fittings, costumes, properties, books and materials required shall be purchased out of the funds (by vote, including two-thirds of the Company present at any Ordinary Meeting), and then become the property of the Club; and any member damaging such property willfully, or through carelessness, shall make good the amount of damage done. X. — That every member shall implicitly obey the directions of the Acting Manager, whose authority must be subscribed to as absolute. XI. — That the designs for the costumes, together with the me- chanical, scenic, decorative, and all other artistic arrange- ments, be under the control of the Stage Manager, subject to approval of the Acting Manager. XII. — That the pieces be selected by ballot by the members of the Company, subject to the approval and judgment of the Acting Manager. XIII. — That the parts be assigned to the actors by the Acting Manager. XIT. — That all " calls" for Meetings of the Acting Members be punctually attended ; any member causing delay to the business of a Meeting, without satisfactory cause being assigned, shall be fined . XT. — That every member to whom any part has been assigned is expected to attend every rehearsal of which due notice or call has been given ; failure in this respect, or absence on the night of the performance, unless for reasons per- fectly satisfactory to the Acting Manager, may subject the offender to expulsion from the Club. XTL — That at the Annual Meeting, held at the end of each sea- son, the Secretary shall submit a Eeport on the proceed- ings, progress and property of the Club, together with the 12 HOW TO AKKANGE A STAGE. Treasurer's balance sheet of its funds, audited by two of the Patrons. XVII. — That any infringement of these rules shall subject a member to expulsion from this Club, on the majority of its Officers so deciding. XVIII. — That every member shall sign these Eules on admission to the Club, and such act shall be regarded as one of loyal subscription to the provisions made therein, in the cause of good organization and necessary discipline. HOW TO ARRANGE A STAGE. In country houses and city mansions rooms are often to D.D W w be met with which both as to size and height are admira- bly adapted for the requirements of Private Theatricals; HOW TO ARRANGE A STAGE. 13 but for these, so variable are they as to disposition of parts and adjoining rooms, that it would be impossible to give a common plan, on which absolute directions could be given. On the other hand, nearly all town and suburban houses conform to a common type, which is given in Fig. 1, where- in B indicates the back room, the part usually devoted to the stage, and F the front room, usually devoted to the audience; though this disposition may be reversed with advantage, when the back room gives sufficient accommo- dation for the audience, as the additional side space pro- vides convenience for actors in waiting, but more especially for the properties, for working " effects," etc., and the or- chestra. D D indicates the part occupied by the usual folding doors, which form the opening through which the stage is seen, whichever be the disposition of front and back rooms ; D indicates the usual doors leading from the staircase, S j and d a door that exists when a third room leads out of the back room. Such third room may be used as a dressing-room or store-room for properties, when the back room is devoted to the stage. The dressing-rooms are usually the bed-rooms upstairs, sometimes small rooms down-stairs; in either case they are reached by the stairs, S, through either of the doors, D,. whichever be the disposi- tion of F and B for stage and auditorium. Where this type of house construction exists, the folding doors provide for a " Proscenium," or the partition necessary to separate the stage from the auditorium. In houses where this ar- rangement of rooms does not exist, it becomes necessary to divide the longest room in the house into two equal or unequal parts by a draped or built-up proscenium, in a manner hereafter described. The Auditorium should be arranged with low forms or benches for the children in front, cane-bottom set- tees for the young people in the middle, with sofas at the back and stuffed chairs at the sides for the elders, while a portion next to the prompt-side should be set apart for the 14 HOW TO ARRANGE A STAGE. orchestra, should there not be accommodation for the musicians behind the curtain. It is well to have one or two lively youths in the front, to see that the visitors are promptly provided with places, that the youngsters keep their places, and do not stand up or interrupt the perform- ance. A Folding-door Proscenium is readily formed if that side of the frame- work is next to the audience on which the pair of doors do not fold back, for then it is only neces- sary to drape the opening with crimson or other dark- colored curtains, arranged in graceful folds, as shown in Fig. 2. If the side on which the doors fold back is that presented to the auditorium, then a built-up proscenium of still more imposing aspect may be formed, by throwing the doors back to a suitable angle and fitting on framed top and angle-pieces, covered with canvas (painted to match the color of the doors), in the manner shown in HOW TO ARRANGE A STAGE. 15 Fig. 3. Where a room has to he divided into stage and audi- torium, a proscenium must he formed out of drapery, as FIG. 3. shown in Fig. 4, or he "built up with three frame-work panels, as shown in Fig. 5. A Draped Proscenium is the simplest and quick- est to make, consequently the "best for extemporized purpos- es, as, when a play is got up at the spur of the moment, all that is required is a lath, about 2 inches by 1£ thick, and nearly as long as the width of the room, four long win- dow-curtains of merino or other thick but pliable material for the sides, and others for festooning the top. Or the top and side draperies may be formed of chintz entwined with muslin, so as to give a very light and elegant aspect to the proscenium, while a pair of green, red, or other dark- colored curtains are employed for the drop. Whenever there is time to procure the best material for this kind of prosce- nium, it is better to purchase crimson baize for the top 16 HOW TO AEEANGE A STAGE. and side draperies, green baize for the central curtain (see page 22), and amber-colored trimmings to border the crimson baize with, the Grecian "meandering square" being the most appropriate pattern. The two side curtains are first tacked to one side of the lath in fluted plaits, then the top-piece is tacked over, and festooned with amber-colored cord. The pair of central curtains are tacked flat to the other side of the lath with their thin edges overlapping, and cords arranged so that they may be drawn up as shown in Fig. 4, or lowered to close in the stage as indicated by the dotted lines. The reefing cord should embrace each curtain, and be sewn to their front edges at the proper spots for producing symmetrical fes- toons, and pass over rings (used as pulleys) fixed to the lath. To ensure the fall of the curtains on the reefing cords being loosened, bullets should be sewn into their front edges just below tho point at which the cords are HOW TO ARRANGE A STAGE. 17 fixed, and again within an inch or two of the ground. The lath thus draped must now be drawn up in position by FIG. 5. means of stout ropes fastened to its ends, passed through a screw or staple rings, screwed or driven into the walls on each side of the room as near to the ceiling as possible. The back view of this arrangement is shown in Fig. 4. The supporting rod may be arranged so as to be adjustable to the width of any room, by employing two overlapping laths, which after being put together so as to fill out a re- quired width are then screwed together. A Framed Proscenium may be built up with three panels, in the following manner : — Strips of pine 11 inches wide, 1 inch thick (before rough planing), are cut into lengths suitable for forming the three panels, shown in Fig. 5. The exact size of the two side and top panels is of course dependent on the width and height of the room. If very wide, this proscenium may be supplement- 18 HOW TO AEEANGE A STAGE. ed with curtains on each side and drapery above, after the disposition shown in Fig. 2 j but as a rule, a width of from two to three feet will prove sufficient, their length being governed absolutely by the height of the room that has to be fitted up. The pine strips being cut to the required lengths, a panel frame is formed by placing the four lengths together ? as shown in Fig. 6, care being taken that the ends are perfectly squared. They are then primarily connected together by four long stout screws ; which, how- ever, only act as dowel pins, real strength being given by cutting four angle-pieces out of sheet iron and screwing them on to the four strips, in the manner as indicated in Fig. 6. The screws should be greased with tallow before PIG. 6. insertion, to allow of their being readily withdrawn, should it prove desirable to take these frames to pieces, for the purpose of closer packing at the end of each season. The frames thus formed are then covered with muslin, primed and colored according to the directions given under the head of Scene Painting. In Fig. 5 the side panels are supposed to be 2 feet 6 inches or 3 feet wide, which ad- mits of figures of the Tragic and Comic Muses being in- serted. Where, however, the panels cannot be wider than two feet, it is better to replace the figures with tragic and comic masks, grouped with appropriate accessories and ribands. The top panel is suspended near the ceiling, as presently described ; the side panels are connected to it by iron hooks and eyes, and their lower ends are made fast to two blocks nailed to the floor by the same means. To prevent any light from the stage showing through the two HOW TO ARRANGE A STAGE 19 cracks left where these three panels join each other, they must be covered over at the hack with strips of glued muslin, which may afterwards be painted over with white- wash, to make the job effectual and add strength to the structure. The muslin must be evenly stretched upon the frames, as it is fastened down to the sides with tacks, and the edges of the muslin should be folded double to give extra strength to the fabric where the strain comes upon the nails, the tacks of course being knocked through the seam thus formed. The Stage for amateur performances in a private house may be fitted up in the following simple and econom- ical manner, designed with the view of obtaining the necessary points of support for scenes, side scenes, or wings, sky borders, curtain, etc., with the least amount of injury to the walls of a handsomely papered parlor; it pre- sents further advantages in leaving the floor free from all encumbrances, and admits of everything being rigged up and removed in less than an hour, when once the several parts have been properly put together. The first thing is to get a curtain pole, P, Fig. 7, nearly as long as the width of the room that is to be devoted to the stage ; this is suspended by cords from two stout hooks, driven into the walls on each side of the room, at a height of 8i feet from the floor, at the point fixed upon for the erection of the proscenium. The next thing to do is to fit, by loops over this pole, two half-inch poles, L L, which must be carried to the wall at the back of the stage, and there fixed to two similar hooks driven in 8 feet apart, and at the same height from the floor as the others. As it is neces- sary both ropes should be fixed " taut," it is better to at- tach two India-rubber springs, S S — such as are used for making doors self-closing— to the ends of each of them, so adjusted as to be 3 or 4 inches short of the wall when slack, which necessitates the springs being pulled out to get their terminal rings over the hooks. On being fixed; 20 HOW TO ARRANGE A STAGE. HOW TO ARRANGE A STAGE. 21 these, of course, act as stretchers, and cause the pole and pair of cords to form a firm frame- work, on which the scenes, etc., can be suspended. The loops allow of the ropes being readily adjusted on the pole at any convenient or variable distance from each other. Each rope is furnished with six adjustable sus- pending hooks, H, of the form shown in Fig. 8 ; two pair for borders, B, two pair for wings or side scenes, W, and two pair for scenes, C, Fig. 7. The borders, B, are mounted on long rollers fitted with loops, by which they are affixed to the sus- pending hooks. Every border is appropriate to the scene— as, "sky," for a sea or landscape; "wood," for a forest; "rock," for a cavern; -F^Tg. " ceiling," for a cottage, hall, etc.; " drapery," for a saloon, etc. The Wings or Side Scenes, W, are mounted on short laths and rollers, with cords attached to the ends of the laths, by which they are suspended to the hooks. This arrangement, shown in Fig. 7, admits of great free- dom of adjustment for the side scenes, as they can be set parallel with, or at any desired angle to, the scene ; or be pushed far on, or drawn back off the stage. When rolled up they occupy little space. The Scenes are mounted on a pair of light rollers, and are attached to the suspending hooks by cord loops fixed to each roller. To save material and space, the scenes and wings are painted on both sides ; the wings back to back, so that by their simple rotation a change can be effected; but in the scenes they are painted head and tail— that is to say, the sky on one side corresponds to fore- ground on the other side ; so that, to reverse the sides in a cramped space, it is only necessary for two persons to raise each end of the lower roller and fix its loops to the sus- pending hooks, then unloop the roller that had previously been uppermost, and gently lower it to the ground. The 22 HOW TO ARRANGE A STAGE. borders are also painted back to back. For scene-shifting it is necessary to have two pair of folding steps, if the scenes are higher than can be reached when one stands upon a chair. When the room admits of lofty scenes, it is a convenient plan to raise and lower the scenes by means of endless ropes, working through rings or pulleys, P P, attached to the side ropes, S S, and floor j in which case the rollers of the scenes, C, are attached by S -hooks, H, to loops made on the endless ropes, R R ; as shown in Fig. 9. The Green Curtain that closes the opening in the proscenium, F, Fig. 7, is tied by tapes on to an iron rod, D, suspended from the pole, P, and is looped up or closed by the arrangement of cords shown in Fig. 4, which can be worked by the Prompter from his own particular corner. The Drop Curtain. The cur- tain may be made of green baize or green mushn, doubled. Up the back of the curtain, along a strong linen tape, must be firmly sewn rows of brass rings, each row being about two feet from the side edges of the curtain, and about the same distance from each other, and the rings in each row are to be placed about six inches apart. Ahem is made at the bottom of the curtain, through which a stiff wire should be run to keep it steady. The curtain may be fixed to the top of the frame by means of strong tacks. Cords are now passed through the rings and fastened to the wire, then passed over pulleys on the upper piece of the frame. On pulling the cords, if the pulleys and rings HOW TO AEEANGE A STAGE. 23 are properly adjusted; the curtain will rise easily. When » D I> / id's ! ^^ ^/\|! ,C | > 6 *i ' /J ■ ' ml / /'/// ^ ^ FIG. 10. A A— Top of the Frame. B B— Curtain. C— Cords and Rings. D D— Pulleys. E E— Wire. the curtain is up the cords are fastened to a hook secured FIG. 11.— BACK OF THE fiTTRT ATW. to the left side of the frame about three feet from the floor. 24 HOW TO ARRANGE A STAGE. For a small stage only three rows of rings are necessary. The annexed engravings (Figs. 10 and 11 ) will show tho simplicity of the arrangement. Lighting the Stage. This is readily effected if gas is attainable, otherwise lamps must he employed. The simplest method of fitting up gas footlights is to procure a plank the width of the opening in the proscenium, on which fix an iron pipe fitted with fish-tail burners, nine inches apart, and a T joint to admit of its connection by two elbow joints, and the necessary length of iron tubing, with the gas supply beneath the flooring, in the manner shown at G- G, Fig. 7. But this can only safely be en- trusted to a gasfitter. The connection with the house sup- ply should be made in the side of the stage selected as the "prompt corner," so that the height of the gas may be regulated by the Prompter by means of a stopcock, to meet the requirements of each scene. To reflect the light from the burners well over the stage from floor to sky borders, several sheets of tinned iron, soldered together to correspond to the length of the plank, must be fixed at the proper angle found by trial. The bottom edg^e of the sheet of tin being placed against the back edge of the plank, a bearing is secured, and it can then w be kept at the right inclination by -chain sup- ports, as shown at G-, Fig. 7. It is also advan- tageous to have gas burners on each side of the stage itself, not only for working by when the curtain is down, but to serve as " wing lights" for the better illumination of the side j scenes, W, and to counteract the density of the shadows of the actors, thrown by the I foot-lights on the wings. When gas is not attainable, lamps must be employed, mounted with semicircular sheet tin reflectors, as shown in Fig. 12, which also serve to screen the fights when necessary, by the simple act of turning HOW TO AHHAKTrE A STAGE. 25 the open side to the wall. Dwarf dome-shaped lamps of the Argand construction are "best suited for the " float" or footlights. Some four or five of them can be placed on a plank, B, fitted with a reflector, E, similar to the gas float previously described, but with the addition of a light frame, H, which can be turned up when the stage has to be darkened, as shown in Fig. 13. Mediums must be provided both for foot and wing fights when required to throw suitable tints upon the stage— such as moonlight, firelight, etc. For the wing lights colored glasses are best, but for the footlights stout wire frames covered with colored silk or "tammy" are the more durable and cheaper. Pale phosphorescent blu- ish green being the proper tint for moonlight, deep blood- red for firelight, yellow for bright, sunny scenes, rose tint for sunset; but the two first are the most important for the footlights — all the others for the wing lights. The colored glasses, M, are supported by stout wires, "W W, soldered to the upper part of the tin reflector, E, as shown in Fig. 12. The wire frames covered with colored material, M, may be simply rested against the two uprights, U, of the float lights, L, as shown in Fig. 13, and laid one upon the other in front of the floats when not in use. Two young- sters should be delegated to attend to the footlights and mediums, and be provided with seats on each side of the front row of the auditorium. 26 HOW TO AKEANGE A STAGE. Calcium-light Effects can be produced with an ordinary magic lantern fitted with Si condensers. A blight divergent beam of light tinted blue, green, red, violet, is often required for ghost, moonlight, firelight, demoniacal, lightning, etc., " effects," and this is produced by the ordinary optical system of a magic lantern, L, con- sisting of the "condensers," C, and the "power," P; or, as at the theatres, with the condensers only, in what is called a "■ theatre (calcium) light." It is therefore better to procure a lantern of the form shown in Fig. 14, wherein the sliding FIG. 14. tube carrying the power, P, is removable, rather than the ordinary article with a conical front tube. The powerful Argand lamp usually supplied with magic lanterns may be used, but the effects produced will not compare with the vividness of the calcium light. The safest and most com- pact calcium-light apparatus is that shown in Fig. 14, wherein the oxygen is condensed into a small iron bottle, O, and the hydrogen (carbureted) is obtained from the ordi- nary house supply. The house gas is conveyed from a tap, T, (inserted in iron gas tube, G, Fig. 7, in the prompt cor- ner) by a flexible India-rubber tubing to the oxyhydrogen jet, J, and connected therewith, the oxygen bottle being HOW TO ARRANGE A STAGE. 27 connected in a similar manner. The cock from the house gas supply b^ing turned full on, the hydrogen tap of the jet, J, is first turned full on to clear the tubes and jet, and is then turned nearly down and the gas lighted. When the lime cylinder on which the flame impinges is well warmed, the lever tap of the condensed gas bottle is turned very gently till a sufficiency of oxygen is mixed with the hydrogen to make the lime glow with an inteuse incandescent light. The hydrogen tap may be turned a little more, and then the lever of the bottle, and so on, till the light has been " coaxed up" to the brightest attainable, for if suddenly brought to this point, the lime cylinder would probably crack. The oxygen tap of the jet, J, is turned full on from first to last and never used, all adjust- ments being made direct from the bottle, 0, by the lever of the valve head. By pushing the fight towards the con- denser of the lantern or pulling it away, the rays may be made to form a diverging, parallel, or converging beam of light. The arrangement of condensed gas herein described is not so universally known as the gas bag system, with its cumbrous pressure boards and half-hundred weights, oc- cupying much space, which can ill be spared on a drawing- room stage ; nevertheless such an apparatus is procurable from those opticians who go ahead with the times. It is the method universally adopted at the New York thea- tres, and ought to be everywhere, if only for the reason of its perfect immunity from danger, a serious explosion being a thing impossible. The magic lantern is service- able for many other effects that can only be produced by its means on an amateur stage. Colored Fires are procurable of the firework makers, but on account of the suffocating smoke they give off they are — both in consideration of actors and audience — better avoided, and the lime-light with colored mediums resorted to in place thereof. If absolutely necessary, they should be burnt upon a short-handled iron shovel, and as 28 HOW TO PAINT THE SCENES. soon as the curtain is down the shovel should be plunged into a pail of water standing ready, and the windows, doors, etc., thrown open, to ventilate the stage as quickly as possible. HOW TO PAINT THE SCENES. The kind of scenery required has been described in the previous chapters j and, it will be noted, all framework is avoided, for the reason that anything like "flats," or those scenes which divide in the centre, would occupy too much space when not in use to be suitable for a drawing-room stage ; while, on the other hand, scenes, side scenes, and borders mounted on rollers occupy the smallest possible space when wound up, and side scenes, when mounted on laths and rollers, are quite firm enough to shut out the wings and meet all other requirements. It is as well, however, to meet the position that not un- frequently presents itself to go-ahead amateurs, wherein there is not sufficient time to prepare scenery, when an entertainment is got up on the spur of the moment, or where the lady of the house, having a nervous dread of damaged wall-papers, " really thinks that scenery is going a little too far." Under such circumstances there is only one way to meet the difficulty, and that is to adopt the mediaeval dodge of " The Classic Period of the Stage," viz., indicate every scene by a printed placard fixed upon a curtain of the darkest colored material that can be ob- tained (a deep mulberry tint being the best as a general background to the dresses), and at such a height as to be seen above the heads of the actors ; this curtain of course being hung at the very back of the room or stage. Then boldly . make the best of things by giving some such Opening Address as the following : PROLOGUE. Curtain draivs up and discovers the Manager. Ladies and Gentlemen : — I am Stage Manager, [boivs a self-introduction] HOW TO PAINT THE SCENES. 29 But without scenery, Gorgeous decorations and machinery. [Shrugs his shoulders disparagingly. Sole properties — two chairs, one table. Such a fix might any man disable. [Despairingly. But, as Necessity begets Invention, Let us at once establish a convention. The scenes not being Morgan's, must be Fancy's sketch, "Which on imagination please oblige me just to etch; And, that all changes you may discern with ease, I've invented these distinctions, "Which you'll notice if you please. This denotes a Scene — {whistles} this an Act — [rings bell} Pray pay attention to that stubborn fact ! But our dresses have been bought regardless of expense, "Which we all hope may beget your admiration, most intense. What need for grief? — Men in the olden time Placed all their trust in reason and in rhyme ; And a rude platform's unattractive plane Foreran the stately stage of Drury Lane. By pageantry or ballet-girls effected, A most tremendous hit was ne'er expected. Then all relied on Shakespeare — Avon's bard, Beaumont and Fletcher, Jonson, Foote, Kinnaird. Scenes ! — they had none, but on a covered frame, Hung at the back, was there inscribed the name Of whereso'er the mimic scene was laid — As, Macbeth's Castle— Open Sea — A Glade. Then trusted Managers to classic fame, More than the clap-trap of a painter's name. Having enlisted in our Thespian band, We by such ancient customs take our stand ; On this rough tablet we the lines display, Which carry you, in Fancy, far away To woods and forests, valleys, mountains steep, To halls of dazzling light, or dungeons deep, In the mind's eye ; and if they're viewed aright Will serve for painted scenes, almost — perhaps not quite. 30 HOW TO PAINT THE SCENES. Our actors may not hope to equal one Like Kernble, Bannister or Elliston; Or Suet — he who, in a storm caught tripping, Foreswore his name— and swore that he was Dripping. Our actresses cannot expect to vie With brightest Stars that gem the Thespian sky; Despair they need not, for they yet will find None to the softer sex can prove unkind ; While youth and beauty form the female shield, The stoutest censor to the fair must yield. Then let me lastly your indulgence crave For any faults we may perchance to have. And should our feeble efforts naught avail ; Should after all our best endeavors fail ; Still let some mercy in your bosom live, And if you can't applaud, at least forgive. It must "be remembered that many pieces may be selected wherein the scenes are laid in modern interiors, and much may be done by arranging the room used as a stage to make it look homely or luxurious, according to require- ment. Thus, should there be a window at the back, by putting up common check curtains or delicate chintz, elegant muslin or rich damask, fitting up the fireplace to match, and selecting kitchen, bed-room, boudoir or draw- ing-room furniture to correspond, with appropriate wall decorations, such as common colored prints, framed paint- ings, vases, mirrors, etc., the aspect of a garret, cottage, bed-room, boudoir, library or drawing-room may be given to one and the same room, to make it serve for varied scenes. Much may be said in favor of such arrangements, as thereby no space is lost that, as a rule, can ill be spared ; and the danger of making the actors look gigantic, by dwarfing the room with side scenes and top borders, is avoided. Nevertheless, there are many good plays suited for home representation that require the accessories of scenic effect to make the tout ensemble sufficiently realistic. In preparing the flats and side wings to represent the in- HOW TO PAINT THE SCENES. 31 terior of a room, cheap wall paper and borders in imita- tion of cornices may "be arranged in the shape of panels, and form an elegant scene with little labor and outlay. A limited number of typical scenes, by a judicious interchange of side scenes, borders, etc., may be made to go along way for the purposes of private theatrical representations ; and these may be produced at trifling cost, if ; as is usual, some one with artistic taste is to be found amongst one's circle of friends who is ready to enter into the enterprise. Certain rules must be attended to in the production of the designs for such scenes, to avoid the absurdities that might arise where the actors are forced into too close prox- imity with the scenery. Thus perspective views are better avoided ; but, if necessary, the foreground must be pro- portionate to the height of the actors — whether they be children, youths or adults— and any perspective view must be represented as in the distance. "Wood scenes must rep- resent the trunks of trees rather than the upper foliage, with plenty of undergrowth, bold patches of ferns, etc. Kocky valleys must have large boulders or ledges in the foreground. Modern streets must only embrace the lower portions of the houses ; ancient ones may have a market- place fountain in the foreground, with the houses receding or lying far behind. So with the side scenes — if a cottage is represented, the porch only should be given. " Sky n borders, for out-of-door scenes, are quite inappropriate, as they come too close down upon the heads of the actors ; so the side and back scenes are better closed in with vine trellis, or other foliaged borders. This kind of defect is not felt where ceiling, forest, or cavern borders are em- ployed. The aspect of a scene may be materially altered by using " accessory pieces," which are made of separate bits of linen strengthened by pasting brown paper on each side and fastened to the scenery by means of diagram pins and discs of cork, so as to cover certain parts of the 32 HOW TO PAINT THE SCENES. scene. Thus for an antique chamber the walls must be ornamented with armor and stags' heads, but when a library or parlor aspect is desired, accessory pieces repre- senting family portraits must be affixed to the panels. Again, in a modern interior, the cracks in the wall that meet the requirements of a dilapidated room are covered over with accessory pieces which represent water-color drawings in gilt frames. Other accessory pieces may rep- resent mirrors, statuary or clocks on brackets, and these, in conjunction with the hints previously given, as to the use of varied appropriate draperies hung upon a curtain pole suspended in front of the window, furniture, etc., pro- vide means for ringing the changes upon interiors to a wonderful extent. If we desire a village scene, we can take a landscape, and by the addition of a cottage porch, a tree, and a vine trellis or forest border, and a signboard accessory hung below the border in front of the porch converts this into a village inn. If we want a garden scene, the porch or tree gives place to a flower-bed side scene, in conjunction with a white garden-palings " ground piece" across the back of the stage, if required. If a smugglers' cave is desired, we form our landscape into a seascape, by fixing in front of it an accessory piece representing waves ; in front of this, at a suitable distance, a rock-ground piece in reversed position ; and rocky side scenes and border make up the entrance to the cave, with sea and sky in the distance. These are sufficient hints to indicate how such a set of stock scenes (painted only as occasion calls for, be it observed) may be worked to give very varied aspects, by the employment of a little inge- nuity on the part of the Stage Manager of the Company. Bridges are exceptional requirements, but when needed may be made up with a couple of planks resting on fold- ing steps, placed on each side of the stage, with a car- penter's trestle for a central bearing ; appropriate hand- HOW TO PAIXT THE SCENES. 33 rails and uprights, painted balustrades, etc., being added, according as a rustic, castellated, Chinese or other special foreign aspect has to be given to it. "Practicable" doors may be made with a tall fire-screen or clothes-horse; one frame, covered with brown paper, muslin, etc., apxu-opriately paneled, is placed be- tween two side scenes connected by a top piece, painted to suit the character of an exterior or interior, as may be needed, i- ig. 15. C C, clothes-horse ; S S, side scene. Window-frames are made of black tape tacked across and interwoven to represent square or diamond panes. Where persons have to pass or look in at or out of a win- dow, scenes with such windows must have another scene behind them to represent a bright, dark, or moonlit sky, interior, or other appropriate background. S c /o Having said enough about designing and planning the scenery, it is time to give some instructions how to prepare 34 HOW TO PAIXT THE SCEKES. and paint scenes. First, it is necessary to select a room or outhouse lofty enough to admit of the full-sized scenes be- ing fixed upon the sketching frame ; the size suited for or- dinary rooms is 9 feet high by 10 feet wide, but of course they can be made lower or higher, should the room select- ed for the stage be shallow or lofty. Next, a sketching frame must be constructed of four laths united together, so that their faces may lie in one plane ; or, to save the after attachment of the cloths to the rollers, the rollers may be made to form part of the sketching frame, as ' shown in Fig. 16, wherein U U are two uprights, each formed of two pieces, the front ones being as deep as the diameter of the rollers, with their upper edges cut off at an angle as shown at A, so as to form crotches in which the rollers get a bearing. The rollers being screwed to the back pieces of the uprights, a frame is formed. But if this 5 6 7 8 jjyyM Uj f 3 ?, i 5' 'V . tT^i m*m&m - irn^mmm plan is adopted, great care must be taken in squaring the cloth to the rollers, before it is finally tacked down, or the scenes when painted will be out of the perpendicular. By workmanlike employment of square and plumb line, this error at starting can be avoided j a perpendicular, at right angles with the horizontal line of the roller, being struck at the left-hand edge, wherefrom the artist must work his design. The cheapest material for scenery, and that best able to stand wear and tear, is common unbleached muslin. A sufficient quantity, cut to proper lengths, having been pro- cured, they must be sewn together at the edges till the re- HOW TO TAINT THE SCENES. 35 quired width is obtained, and then the entire cloth must bo stretched upon the frame with tacks. Having first wetted the cloth ah over, and allowed it to dry to get all creases out, it is next primed {see page 37) on both sides and over the joins, and again alio wed to dry. The next step is to draw in the outline of the design with charcoal, and here a few hints are given how to secure the proportions on a large surface. Some scene painters enlarge by first di- viding their design (made to scale) into squares {see Fig. 17), then they divide their canvas into a corresponding set of squares {see Fig. 18), and next sketch into each large square the portion of the design included in the cor- responding small square. This system may be carried to FIG. 18. a slavish extent that mars the bold effect capable of being produced by a good free-hand artist. Another plan for laving out the canvas is to stretch two long measuring iapes across the primed surface, so as to divide it horizon- tally into three sections, then by employing two similar tapes fixed as required, vertically, divide the space into small or large compartments, according as a given portion of the sketch design is full of detail or otherwise. The 36 HOW TO TAINT THE SCENES. tapes (see Fig. 19) must be parallel with the rollers and the vertical guide line struck on the left-hand side of the cloth. The scale of feet and inches on the tapes will often prove of service where there is much detail over several adjoining divisions. Of course the sketch design must also he divided into three horizontal divisions and small or large compartments, to counterpart the laying out of the canvas. o VJJl c -sy~~ r 1) FIG. 19. Fig. 19 represents a stretched cloth laid out as de- scribed. The upper horizontal section being devoted to sky, the crossed tapes are not really required for this por- tion, as clouds are better dashed in with a free hand. As the design in the first portion of the middle section is very open work, a large compartment can be laid out for it ; but as there is detail in the next portion, a more circumscribed area is embraced by the vertical tapes. When the design as far as the second vertical tape has been sketched in, the left-hand tape is removed and fixed on the other side of the central one, small or large compartments being laid HOW TO PAIXT THE SCENES. 37 off as the work in that part of the design demands, and so on till the same is entirely sketched in. Side scenes may be painted separately, by simply tacking the lengths against the wall of the painting room, or a full-sized scene cloth may be stretched and marked out into 2 fee Lor 2 feet 6 inch widths, within which the wings may "be sketched and painted. Sky borders and ground pieces may be produced in the same way, only these are of course painted the length instead of the width of the cloth ; and it must be borne in mind that sky borders are the longest of all, as they must close in the outside edges of the side scenes. The " priming 7 ' is prepared by soaking over night two pounds of light-colored glue (broken into small pieces) in sufficient cold water to cover it completely; in the morn- ing the glue will be quite soft, and the whole should then be melted in a pot over a gentle fire until thoroughly dis- solved. (This, if allowed to cool, would solidify into a strong jelly, and is known under the name of "size.") While still hot, add to it about two gallons of hot water. In another pail smash up whiting with water till it is of the consistency of cream, then gradually add the size and water previously made, till the mixture is as thick in ap- pearance as good milk ; lastly, stir in a little more than half a pint of common molasses. This is the preparation employed for surfacing the muslin, two coats of which, on each side, are laid on with a large whitewashed or house- painter's brush. It is also used for mixing with the ground colors, obtainable at the paint stores, for the pro- duction of the body colors with which scenes are painted in what is termed distemper. The colors that will be found most generally useful are Venetian red, red lead, yellow ochre, yellow chrome, Brunswick green, ultramarine, indigo, brown ochre, burnt sienna and lampblack. By judicious intermixture various other colors and tints are produced, the most important 38 HOW TO PAINT THE SCENES. being ultramarine with various proportions of white prim- ing, for sky and water tints. It may save disappointment by mentioning that ultramarine will not mix with other colors, muddy tints being the result. Red lead with vari- ous proportions of priming, for warm cloud tints, autumnal foliage, high lights, or trunks of trees. Brunswick green and yellow chrome for all shades of light green. Bruns- wick green and indigo for dark green. "Where metallic tints are necessary, foil paper must be employed ; these are cut out to the required shapes and are fixed to the cloth with thick paste; when dry they are shaded over with distemper. Before beginning to lay in distemper colors the effect to be produced must be well considered, or tried experiment- ally on a small scale beforehand ; for it is necessary to work quickly, and blend one color into another while wet, or, when dry, the effect will be streaky or hard. In mixing the colors it must be remembered that distemper dries lighter by from twenty to thirty shades, so that what would look effective and artistic while wet would come out very washy and weak when dry. Again, allowance must be made for the coloring being illuminated by artificial light, rich in yellow rays. You must commence by laying in the middle or half tints, over which are worked the high lights and shades. Broad effect with bold treatment must be aimed at, and niggling at details avoided, as scenery is not intended for close inspection; and here, truly, Distance lends enchantment to the view. All dark lines, etc., must be " marked up," with the proper pigments mixed with strong size. Distemper colors should be mixed in red earthen pipkins, as they must be kept warm during use, or the size would set and would not work freely. Enough has now been said to assist those who have ar- tistic taste and skill, but have not had any previous knowl- edge of scene-painting in distemper. Of course, no one HO"W TO PRODUCE EFFECTS. 39 will make a scene who has not had practice in the use of pencil and brush. As regards shifting scenery, it is better, as a rule, to drop the curtain at the end of each scene ; the exception being in the case of trick-scenes or instantaneous changes in fairy pieces, or plays where dreams, visions, etc., are enacted, and these are rarely attempted by amateurs. HOW TO PRODUCE EFFECTS. Moonlight is best produced by placing all the wing lights, fitted with the appropriate mediums, on one side of the stage only, so as to rake the stage with slanting beams of green light. The magic lantern may also be brought into use with effect ; a medium being placed in its stage, and the light arranged for diverging beam, the rays may be directed slantingly through a cut open window, if a moon is necessary, a round hole must be cut out of the cloth, over which aperture a piece of fine linen must be glued, and when dry the disc must be well greased with salad oil. This must be illuminated from behind by the magic lantern, with the rays made parallel or sufficiently so to concentrate all the light upon the disc ; by suitable mediums a cold, bright or harvest moon may be represent- ed. On removing the light the moon is no longer visible, or it may be obscured by a bank of clouds cut out of brown paper and worked across the scene with cords. Lightning is best imitated by aid of the magic lan- tern. A violet medium being placed in its stage, the fight is exposed and cut off rapidly or in a flickering manner by the operator's hand placed before the nozzle. If the en- tire stage is to be illuminated with lightning flashes, it is better to place the lantern at the back of the auditorium, using what is called a "long focused" power, and cutting off all rays but those that just fill the aperture in the proscenium by an oblong card diaphragm cut to size by trial. This method of working from the back is also an 40 HOW TO PRODUCE EFFECTS. excellent method for illuminating the entire stage with moonbeams for a fairy glen, a phosphorescent green medium "being employed. In ghost scenes a weird effect is thus produced. A tolerably good imitation of lightning may be made by throwing a pinch of gunpowder through an open flame. There are tin tubes made for the pur- pose with fine holes at one end, to allow a small portion of finely powdered rosin to be dusted through aflame. Pow- dered lycopodium is also used, as it makes less smell in burning than either gunpowder or rosin. s Thunder is resembled by shaking a piece ( of sheet iron. With a little practice an admir- I able representation of the raging of a storm may be rendered. Hain is imitated, as to the various degrees of intensity of a storm, by the masterly use of a long square tube, crossed with partitions, as shown in Fig. 20, charged with a sufficient quantity of peas. On reversing and inclining this instrument the peas fall from one partition to another, and a noise is produced that sounds like the patter of a heavy fall of rain. Accord- ing as this tube is inclined from the horizontal to the perpendicular, so the patter becomes softer or louder. Wind is imitated by scraping the edge of J a broad strip of wood over a length of silk. n G . 20. Crashes are imitated according to the nature of the supposed cause. Thus, a door being broken in is repre- sented by turning the cogs of a watchman's rattle; the breaking of glass or crockery by turning over once or more a box filled with metal cuttings, such as sheet tin or brass, or broken crockery. Battle Scenes by the clashing of several basket- handled iron toy swords ; the roll of musketry or rifles by HOW TO PRODUCE EFFECTS. 41 means of a rattle ; the booming of cannon by strokes on a drumhead with a muffled drumstick ; the cries and cheers of the combatants by those not engaged on the stage. All such sounds must be made "off," while these on the boards engage in combat, exchange pistol or rifle shots, or else "look off," as if at a distant battle or field of action. Burning Buildings must be treated as off the stage, and the stage illuminated by all the wing lamps being brought to one side, fitted with red glasses. A lan- tern behind the audience may, with a suitable long slip slide in its stage, be made to produce a flickering effect — ■ now blood-red, now yellow, now dark, now yellow, now red again — with a very sensational addition to the acting. Fires in grates, furnaces, etc., must be produced by cutting out part of a side scene on which the grate, fur- nace, alchemical retort, etc., is painted. Cover the aper- ture with linen, as previously described for the moon (see page 39), paint up with red, yellow and purple varnish colors, and then illuminate the back. Moving Waterfalls, Fountains, etc., maybe imitated very effectively by a not very complicated contri- 42 HOW TO PRODUCE EFFECTS. vance made as shown in Fig. 21, wherein an endle:^ LaaO of silver tissue is made to move downwards by thb c*ctiou of a drum supported on two uprights and wc*ked by a crank handle. This contrivance is placed uetween two half scenes of rocky aspect for a waterfall, and the higher it is carried up the better the effect. By a modification ot this arrangement, with accessory rol^rs, water sprites may be arranged so as to be seen through the falling tissue, or this may be placed behind t* u cut out cloth " represent- ing a fountain. In any caoO the transparent silver tissue must be effectively lighted by the magic lantern, its stage being fitted with radiums of various tints. Sunrise, fe^nset, and Night Effects may be produced by i. similar arrangement, by providing for an endless bcvcL: scene, on the two surfaces of which a sky, graduated from the roseate hues of morn to the ruddy tints or eve, through the gloaming of twilight into the deej> blue shades of night, is artistically painted. Such aricmgements may be regarded as aims too ambitious for auvdteurs, but there is no real difficulty in carrying these iato effect, if a little ingenuity, carpentering, and a mod- erate outlay of cash can be commanded. Vampire Traps, for the sudden appearance of such hobgoblins as the " Bottle Imp," " Heme the Hunter," etc., cannot be provided for the floor of the stage in a private house, so an arrangement must be made at the wings with two side scenes in counterpart, between which the actor stands, and the front wing is sharply drawn aside when he is to appear. A similar arrangement is suited for secret panels in a wall, only in this case the back wing is drawn slowly aside, a screen being placed behind the actor. Ghosts may appear by a similar arrangement at the wings, but the most effective and ghastly way is to throw the vision on to a dark wing by the magic lantern, the character being painted on a double slip slide, It is grad- PROPERTIES. 43 ually unfolded to view by drawing aside the two slips, whereon clouds of mist are painted, the light being at the same time gradually increased in brilliancy. Gauzes are employed for the gradual discovering of a fairy or witch scene. These are made of white or black tar] etan muslin, according as light or dark mist, smoke, etc., has to be indicated. Two or three layers, a little larger than the opening of the proscenium, are arranged one behind the other in front of the side scenes, and these are furled one at a time till the actors are fully discovered. This produces a very weird effect. PROPERTIES. Properties, or curtly " Props," comprise stage furniture and domestic uteusils of all kinds, even down to buckets, brooms, gridirons, candlesticks, bull's-eye and other lan- terns, bottles, medical or spiritual, flagons, eatables, whether real or make-believe ; such weapons for clown and pantaloon as rolls of sausages, flat fish, carrots, tur- nips and cabbages, dead cats, brickbats, etc. Pantomimic masks, fairy wands, and flowery banks are at a theatre produced and kept by the Property Man, while swords, pikes, guns, pistols, armor belong to the domain of the Armorer. On an amateur stage no such division of labor can be entertained, the common -sense plan being for the Stage Manager to see that all properties required for each piece are provided; then each performer must see that any article he or she has to carry on the stage is to hand, whilst the Stage Manager must look after all properties that are to be on the stage, when the scene is set. To check omissions, the Prompter calls over the list of proper- ties required for each scene before the curtain is rung up. Furniture must be selected to suit the scene, whether drawing-room, dining-room, boudoir, bedroom, kitchen , or poverty-struck. To avoid encumbering the joint-stock green and property room, adjoining the stage, it would be 44 PROPERTIES. well to bint that a table and two chairs, of the kitchen type, by judicious treatment, with table-cloths, rich in color, clean, white or dirty, and chair covers of various cuts and patterns, may be made to assume very varied aspects. High back chairs of antique character may be imitated by cutting out a back in pasteboard, painting it up, and covering the seat and legs with muslin, painted to a corresponding style and pattern. All such coverings occupy little space, and allow a change of aspect in the furniture being quickly effected. In a banqueting scene, a good effect may be produced by placing a half scene across the back of the stage, painted to represent an antique buffet, covered with silver dishes, golden flagons, tankards, etc., of bold design, to represent properties. Banners, etc., may be painted on thick paper. Those who carry them must be instructed to keep the painted side always facing the audience. Shields of various shapes may be cut out of paste- board, and armorial bearings emblazoned thereon, or be covered with foil, and bossed or spiked. Spears, etc., may be made out of broom handles, to which spear heads turned out of wood, or battle axes cut out of pasteboard, are spliced. The shafts may either be painted over or wound round with strips of red cloth, fastened down with brass-headed nails. Swords, Scimetars, Daggers, etc., may be cut out of thin wood to the required shape, then covered with tin foil, and finally rubbed over with black lead and polished. The handles may be formed by rolling paper round the wood and binding with thick string. If a, murder has to be committed, the blade of the knife or dagger should be kept bright, and one side blotched with blood-colored varnish ; the bright side must be kept next to the audience till the blow is struck ; when the handle HOW" TO MAKE UP DftESSES. 45 must be rotated quickly in the actor's hand, so that the blade may be withdrawn with the bloody side outwards. Armor may be very fairly made up out of paste- board, and then either black-leaded, or covered with tin foil and black-leaded, or covered with silver foil, according as dark or bright armor is required. Brass armor may be imitated by sewing gilt foil, scales or bosses— obtainable of the stage ornament makers— on to long gray or red stock- ings and long armed elastic shirts, and cloth cut to shape. Kelinets may be made up with gore-shaped pieces of pasteboard (somewhat in the shape of the pieces of silk in an umbrella), to which a gorget is stitched with stout waxed thread, and a practicable visor, and a plume of feathers made out of tissue paper, added. Breastplates, thigh pieces and greaves may, with a little ingenuity, be worked up into form out of pasteboard; but body armor may be avoided by adopting an overcoat, such as the Knight Templars wore, emblazoned with armorial bearings. Fairy Wands may be formed out of cheap fishing rods, willow rods or rattan, bound round, spirally, with tape and colored tinsel. Wreaths of Flowers are made out of colored papers. Agricultural Implements, such as hay rakes, spades, forks, etc., must be imitated in pasteboard and wood, if the real articles are not obtainable. Domestic Utensils are always on hand, so no dis- play of ingenuity is called for with properties of this description. HOW TO MAKE UP DRESSES. The directions for costume should be given out by the Stage Manager, so that their colors may harmonize, not only one with another, but likewise with the scenery to be employed ; and all the company must attend implicitly to 46 HOW TO MAKE UP DRESSES. his instructions, that the artistic elements of the entertain- ment may not be marred. Thus, if the scenes are laid chiefly among green woods, green dresses should, as much as possible, be avoided, for the reason that they would not stand out in contrast against a mass of the same color; so red against red, white against white, must be avoided. What in optics are termed complementary colors, always give the rule for proper artistic contrasts. There are three primary colors, blue, yellow and red. The comple- mentary color of each of these is always the result ob- tained by blending the two others. Thus, the comple- mentary color of red, is a blend of blue and yellow, or green ; that of blue, is the combination of red and yellow, or orange ; that of yellow, the mixture of blue and red, or purple. What is true in this respect with regard to the proper background for the costumes, also applies to the rules for proper contrasts in the making up the dresses themselves, and also as to the harmony of colors in an assemblage of costumes. Uniformity of tint produces optical illusion, if the eye is allowed to dwell upon it for any time, as may readily be proved by a very simple ex- periment. Place a large scarlet wafer on a piece of white paper, gaze on it steadfastly for a minute or so, then remove the eye to the paper, and a green image will be seen, and the edge of the paper will appear bordered with a green fringe of colors. As regards juxtaposition of tints, if two scarlet costumes were placed side by side, but one happened to be a greater depth of color, it would not only make the other appear pink, but its own color value would be heightened. The annexed is a list of well-known harmonious con- trasts of colors :— Red — Green. Red-orange — -Green-blue. Orange — Blue. Tellow-greeu — Violet-red. Yellow — Yiolet. Orange-yellow — Blue-Yiolet. Sulphur-yellow — Black. HOW TO MAKE UP DEESSES. 47 Whatever the shade of one, the complementary color must be of equal intensity. Deep shades mnst not come in con- trast "with light shades of the same color or their comple- ment aries. As regards the material of showy costumes, much may he done by the revamping of old silks, satins, velvets, furs, coats, vests, etc. ; the employment of German velvet, brown holland, glazed musfin of bright color, trimmed with black or white cambric, imitation lace, furs, gold and silver fringe, different colored curtain trimmings, foils cut out to diamond form, or stamped out in the shape of leaves, bosses, crosses, jewelry, magical emblems, etc., imitation pearis, colored beads, and fancy trimmings of various kinds — all of which may be obtained at little cost. Silk or cotton stockings may be stained in a great variety of colors by the employment of proper dyes. Striped stockings in great variety are now purchasable at a cheap rate ; black, wmite and gray are to be found in most wardrobes, or may be bought of any hosier. Old slippers may be made to look mediaeval by covering them with black velvet slashed with crimson, blue or amber- colored satin, trimmed with rosettes of different colored ribbons. Ankle boots fitted with large buckles, cut out of tinsel or foil paper, may be made to look of the Georgian period. Walking boots fitted with bufi leather flaps and lace, may be converted into those of cavalier aspect ; or with cream-colored cardboard rims into top boots. With black extensions, into the jack boots of the huntsman, military officer, fisherman, or Californian miner's cut. Fishing boots can be turned to romantic service. Sashes and scarfs of many colors ; belts, black, brown and metallic, with big buckles, may be turned to effective account. Enough has now been said on making up dresses to suggest how, with material generally at hand, or readily procurable at a cheap rate, a great variety of appropriate 48 HOW TO MAKE UP DEESSES. and effective costumes may be got together. All the play- books give directions for the costumes required, and such instructions must be followed as nearly as possible, in which the foregoing hints will prove serviceable. Ladies' apparel is more readily convertible into female theatrical costumes than men's habiliments, so that but little need be said regarding it, as feminine taste will readily suggest and contrive ways and means for meeting the directions given in the play-books, and young ladies know well how to make themselves look lovely with pearl powder, rose blush, penciled eyebrows, patches, and gay dresses, as artificial aids to heighten their natural charms. Wigs and Bsard.3 maybe made out of silk, worsted and tow. The basis of a wig may be a white cotton night-cap. This is sewn up to fit the outline of the head, the superfluous bag is cut away, then it is turned inside out, and the material selected is stitched down to it, or long hair may be stitched to the margin of a crown, hat, cap, or other head-dress, if such article has not to be removed at any time. FIG - 22. Beards are worked upon a wire framework of the form shown in Fig. 22. Hair beards in great variety of forms and color are purchasable at most hair-dressers' at a very cheap rate. Very outre patterns may be hired for the night from the theatrical wig-makers. Moustaches may be fastened to the upper lip with basilicon ointment, or produced in great variety of form by the aid of burnt cork. The Trick or Fright Wig is an ingenious ar- rangement by which the hair on the scalp is made to rise upright on pulling a thin cord, which hangs down and is operated by the performer's hand. It is mostly used by negro minstrel performers among their other burlesque extravagancies of costume. It would not ; however, be out ON " MAKING UP." 49 of place on the head of the low comedian or funny man of a piece, where, in one of the stage " situations," he is laboring under the effects of a u scare." Even if this does • not legitimately occur in the course of the play, a very little ingenuity could introduce some little circumstance or occurrence which would "lead up" to the requisite climax of abject terror on the part of the funny man, provided he possessed a trick wig, and desired to " make a point " with it. ON "MAKING UP." A performer's appearance depends so greatly on the " making up " of the face, that a few words on the subject are indispensable. Wigs, beards, moustaches, etc., are generally easily obtainable, but in their use a great deal of judgment and good taste is needed. The materials requisite for making up the face consist of a box of good water-colors, a piece of India ink, some fine chalk, dry rouge, pearl powder, and a few camel's-hair pencils. Before applying any of the colors and pigments to the face, the skin should be first washed, to remove any natural greasiness, and then thoroughly dried. When the object in view is only to improve the complexion, the fore- head, neck, etc., should be judiciously whitened with pearl powder; the cheeks require a sufficient application (not too much) of rouge, laid on with a hare's foot or the fore- finger, and carefully blended off at the edges in as natural a manner as possible. It must be borne in mind that in the use of rouge or any other appliances, while exaggera- tion is allowable, this must never overstep the extreme of nature. Under the strong glare ' of the stage lights, the natural face appears pallid without some addition of artificial color, but amateurs should avoid the usual ten- dency to overdo it. The art of painting the face consists in concealing the paint. To impart to the face a comic appearance ; rouge may be applied to the end of the nose, 50 ON " MAKING UP." on the forehead, and rather more strongly than usual on the cheek bones, in order to intensify the prominent parts of the face; the comic expression is made permanent by bringing out the comic hues of the face, which is most suc- cessfully accomplished by assuming the desired u broad grin/*' and tracing before a mirror the wrinkles produced with a brush dipped in a reddish-brown water-color. An expression of anger, a natural scowl or a simper, may be permanently given to the face in the same manner. In order to find out whether the right expression is properly obtained, it is a good plan to step back from the glass and stand under a strong light at a distance equal to that which the performer's position on the stage would be from the nearest portion of the audience. In making up a face to represent an old man, a bald wig with straggling gray hairs on each side of it should be drawn over the head, and entirely conceal the natural hair. The color of the face must be made to assimilate with the color of the bald part of the wig. The hues of the face are then deepened with a brush dipped in India ink of the proper depth of color, the wrinkles between and below the eyes and across the forehead brought out, also the crow's foot at the outer corners of the eyes, the lines from the nose to the corners of the mouth, and the furrows in the neck penciled out in the same manner. To give the face an emaciated and sickly appearance, the entire face must first have a coating of white to cover the natural color, and the pallor increased by a bluish tint under the eyes and under the cheek bones, to give them ,thc necessary sunken look, and the lines from the nose to the corners of the mouth deepened, in order to give more prominence to the cheek bones. A piece of black court plaster laid over a front tooth makes it appear as if the tooth was gone, and changes greatly the expression of the mouth. The making up for Ethiopian business admits of very ON "MAKING UP." 51 great variety, and requires more care than it might be sup- posed. It is not as easy to act " nigger " as many young Thespians imagine, as it needs a very close study of the action, voice and peculiarities of the genuine article, and a natural gift of mimicry to reproduce them. Unless an actor possesses these qualifications, he had better leave nigger business alone, and take up some other hue of acting ; but if he does possess them, he will know better than any one can tell him how to dress his part. The ordinary plantation nigger will need a regular curly horse-hair wig ; his face black as the ace of spades ; his lips painted red and greatly exaggerated in thickness, and his eyes opened widely, so as to show the whites. His gar- ments old, patched and ludicrously ill-fitting; his action slouching, careless and thoroughly characteristic. The exquisite, stylish darky should have a fine wavy, rather than curly, wig of real black hair, his face lighter in color, with the cheeks brought out with carmine, and much less "lip." His dress extravagantly showy, and his demeanor a half well-bred, half insolent swagger. Between these two extremes there are many gradations, in which must be included the good old Uncle Tom style of negro, with white wig, eyebrows, etc., and well-worn but neat clothes. The best preparation for coloring the face, hands, etc., is finely pulverized burnt cork, which can be obtained ready made in small packages. Before applying this, it is advisable to give the skin a very thin but complete coating of lard, which prevents the color from penetrating the pores, and allows of its being easily wiped off with a greasy cloth; the black should be laid on with a hare's foot or puff, and will adhere to the grease on the skin without being rubbed in. The rouge may be applied to the lips in the same manner. Some prefer laying the color mixed with water or beer on the dry skin. It feels more comfortable applied in that manner, but this is more than counterbalanced by the diffi- 52 ox "making up." culty in washing it off, and the redness and heat of the skin afterwards. It will do very well for the hands, as they are more easily cleansed, and any grease on them would be apt to smear off. The coloring of the hands mnst he a close imitation of the real negro's, as it is almost impossible to describe the parts, especially of the inside of the hand, that must be lighter in color than the rest. Moons and Red Indians require a face color of Spanish brown, ap- plied in the same manner as burnt cork. At the first dress rehearsal the Stage Manager should direct and assist in making up the faces j but on all after occasions this should be done by each actor for himself, only giving the Stage Manager the trouble of putting in the finishing touches. Crowns may be shaped out of pasteboard covered with gilt foil, and studded with tinsel gems. Hats of various shapes may be made up with old felt hats or of pasteboard trimmed with fringe, gold, silver or cotton lace, feathers, etc. Feathers can be well imitated by snipping and curl- ing doubled pieces of tissue paper of various colors, and mounting the paper on copper wire. Jockeys' caps are made of half gores of colored silk, satin or German velvet, peaked with pasteboard. Burglars' caps with half gores of brown plash, and ear-flaps tied on the top or under the chin. Striped night-caps, blue and white, red and white, etc., are effective for Neapolitans, smugglers, etc. Scarlet night-caps for countrymen, brewers, Continental peasants, etc. Kings' and Queens' dresses may be made up with crowns, royal mantles out of figured crimson table-cloths, colored muslin under-dresses, embossed leather belts, stock- ings of deep color, slippers slashed with velvet and satin, and trimmed with rosettes, etc., of colored ribbon. Roman Dresses are readily made up out of sheets trimmed with "meandering-square" borders of various de- sign and colors for the toga, and the feet sandaled with colored worsted binding. OX ''MAKING UP." 53 Monks' Habiliments are readily made of a loose cowled garment of washed-out purple calico, tied in at the waist with knotted cord, and the feet sandaled with sad- colored worsted binding. An ordinary dark brown domi- no is equally good; and, failing these, a lady's hooded water-proof cloak will answer the purpose. Clergymens' Hobes may be rapidly improvised out of a table-cloth and a pair of black pantaloons, arranged with the legs hanging down on each side of the wearer's neck; the body of the unmentionables may be pinned up to look like a hood ; a white clerical tie completes the attire. Demons can be effectively made up according to ap- propriate color. If red-hot fiends are required, crimson worsted tights made like a long- armed undershirt and a pair of long stockings should be provided, the ends of which can be tucked in and covered by a pair of old pantaloons cut short. From the waist to the knee the body is covered with a black velvet fluted skirt, bordered with two rows of crimson worsted binding, the rest of the velvet being stud- ded with small pieces of green foil, cut in the snape of beetles' wings, connected with a pearl bead head, from which two red antennae are struck out ; an embossed gilt- leather belt encloses the waist. The head is covered with a plum-colored velvet helmet-shaped cap, with flat horn peaks projecting from each temple ; this skull cap is edged with pearl bead trimmings, and a snake mawe of silver tissue and green tinsel entwined is coiled up on the top of the head with the tail hanging down the back ; a long wig of black and green worsted is stitched round the inside of the cap ; black velvet bracelets, studded with green tinsel, completes the costume. This is a most effective dress for a superior demon. Common cindery imps may be dressed in black tights with red or green tinsel horns, and very shoH and tight red or green satin breeches. Comic demons may be fitted with elastic tails made of spiral wire loosely cov- 54 OX " MAKING UP." ered with bluish-gray crape ; such may be pulled out to a great length, and when freed they return to their original dimensions; they also may be made to assume very varied grotesque convolutions. Nondescript demons may be made up in black muslin puffy dresses of vague form, trimmed with green tinsel, long-rayed stars, sombre green stockings and green foil lantern-shaped helmets or head- pieces. Fairies only want a judicious display of white, pink and blue muslin, pink silk stockings, plenty of bright span- gles about the head, painted gauze wings and wands of many colors. The younger members of the friendly circle must be enlisted for fairy characters. Witch.es are made up with a pasteboard conical hat, with a frilled cap under and well round the face ; scarlet baize hooded cloak, trimmed with black or green tinsel mystic symbols ; blue and white checked petticoat, black or gray stockings and buckled shoes. Brigands. — Conical pasteboard hat, trimmed with red worsted binding ; black beard and moustache, white shirt, large turn down collar, gaily colored neckerchief, tied with a slip knot; arms tied in above and below elbow with red ribbons ; old black pantaloons cut off at knee, trimmed up each side with red worsted binding, and studded with sleigh bells ; many-colored sash, tied round waist, with ends hanging down; poniard and pistol stuck in sash; white stockings, criss-crossed with red worsted binding up to knees, and tied with rosette and streamers ; carbine. To give variety an old black jacket, or one made up of green velvet, trimmed with gilt ball buttons, ribbons, etc., maybe worn, hussar fashion, on the left shoulder. Conspirators' Costumes must, of course, corre- spond to period of play; but the conventional melodramatic type is made up with black felt slouched hats, long black OX " MAKING UP." 55 hair hanging down back, Charles I. style of monstache and imperial, black eyebrows, deep lace collar, black jacket and knickerbockers; bull" leather belt with huge brass buckle, pistols, dagger stuck therein and rapier may be added ; gray stockings, ankle boots with buckles, or long black or buff boots; long, full scarlet cloak, fox effect. This does for any mysterious being of the melodramatic cut ; but if much given to lurking in shady comers, the cloak should be black, trimmed with large black bugles, to form glittering masses for effect ; a black, grayish-green or scarlet feather may be placed in the hat for variety. Smugglers are made up with blue and white striped cotton night-cap, long black (worsted) hair sewn inside edge, full black bushy beard, blue and white cotton shirt, black neckerchief sailor-knotted, brown holland skirt, with two rows of black, blue, or red worsted binding round bot- tom, black leather belt, big buckle, pistols stuck therein, and sea boots, made of black muslin, pasted on stout brown paper, or of black wax-cloth. Neapolitan Fishermen are made up much in the same way, but the caps may be red and white; a gay colored scarf replaces the belt, a dirk, the pistols, and Okie and white striped stockings with buff slippers will effect the difference. Eighteenth Century Costumes may be made up out oi old shooting jackets, trimmed with gold and silver lace, or of maroon, chocolate, red, pink, yellow and blue paper-muslin, to imitate satin coats, cut to fashion of period, trimmed with lace, imitation bright cut steel buttons, etc. ; long vests of chintz ; black, gray, or pink stockings, with buckled shoes or jack-boots ; wide-brimmed felt hats turned into three-cornered hats, trimmed with feather, gold, silver, or cotton lace ; worsted or tow wigs, or the hair brushed back with a tie or pigtail, and pow- dered ; dress swords, or rapiers. 56 ON "MATTING trp. w Poles. — Square pasteboard caps, and "black coats trim- Died with fur, breast corded and frogged, scarlet necker- chief, high boots furred round the top. Burglars and Roughs of the present period may be readily made up with a common cap, hair brushed short, black or carrotty whiskers, beard and moustache of. the bushy cut; old brown or gray shooting jacket, well patched and dirtied ; red, blue, or yellow cotton necker- chief, black breeches, gray stockings and brown leather gaiters, face dirty red, corked eyebrows, eye-sockets deepened with antimony, surgical strappings on nose or forehead, and black patch over one eye as accessories ; a life preserver sticking out of pocket, or a stout knobby stick under arm is suggestive. If a bull or other degraded looking dog can be made to follow ^to heel/ 7 it will be all the more effective and characteristic. Bear in mind dogs are capable of being "made up 77 to look "to character, 77 and dirt will go a long way in effecting this. Scamps are readily made up with a dilapidated stove- pipe hat, with a red cotton spotted pocket-handkerchief showing under, lank hair, chin blued to give an unshaven aspect, and a haggard "■ make up 77 of face, collarless neck, seedy old out-at-elbows swallow-tailed coat, that has scraped acquaintance with the pavement, buttoned up to suggest a shirtless body; dirty, baggy, patched trousers of a fast check pattern ; cracked and muddy boots. Jockeys' dresses can be made up with half gores of German velvet to form the cap, in alternate colors, such as black and white, red and white, blue and white, etc., with black card-board peaks; white shirt sleeves, with a loose brightly-colored silk body to form the jacket ; belt ; eream-colored drawers made into knee breeches ; boots, with card-board tops stitched on ; spars and whip. Joim Bull, assumed by a stout person, requires a fluffy white hat, fiery face, short hair ; mutton-chop whis- ON " MAKING UP." 57 kers only ; blue scarf with white spots, large carbuncle pin therein ; dark blue coat (if necessary made out of paper- muslin unglazed side out), brass buttons ; buff vest ; huge watch chain and bunch of seals ; cream-colored drawers made into breeches ; top-boots ; big stick. Yankee. — The traditional Yankee, with very short striped pantaloons, and long straps, and whose leading ec- centricity consisted in "whittling," has almost passed from the stage. The modern improvement is usually dressed in plain gray home-spun garments, cut country style. The head is made up with a straight flaxen wig, sallow complex- ion, the tip of the nose reddened, and a general rugged ap- pearance given to the face by slightly increasing the natural hues and wrinkles. The Yankee characteristics are brought out much less by eccentricity of costume than by the voice, action, and general demeanor. Dundreary Swells. — Full evening dress, or a morn- ing costume, with gaiters, huge shirt curls, and the charac- teristic billy-goat whiskers and beard. Highlanders. — Glengarry cap, eagle's feather or heather sprig therein, fastened on by silver buckle \ car- rotty worsted locks ; white shirt and red neckerchief; plaid shawl to form the kilt ; plaid scarf over shoulder ; tartan hose over pink stockings ; sporran, philibeg, dirk, claymore, and Scotch jewelry as accessories, when requisite. Paddy.— Dilapidated white hat with black band, and a short pipe stuck therein; short sandy tow wig; blue and white neckerchief, with slip knot, round neck ; darkish green swallow -tailed coat (made of green paper muslin, un- glazed side out, if necessary), brass buttons ; scarlet vest ; yellow breeches tied at knees with red ribbons ; gray ribbed stockings ; shoes and buckles ; shillalah under arm. Country Bumpkin.— Dwarf round felt hat, sandy worsted locks sewn under edge; smock frock; crimson neckerchief; long leather gaiters. 58 ON " MAKING UP." Red. Indians are readily made up with a night-cap, bordered with scarlet cloth, worked out white and blue bugles, covered over with pea-hen feathers, arranged in two full rows, one on each side of the head, pointing back- wards from the forehead and hanging downwards at the back of the head, black (thread) lanky hair showing under ; red face, tattooed with indigo and bright vermilion ; bright Eed Indian pattern shawl, worn as a cape ; dark brown holland skirt to knees, trimmed with red and worked with black and white bugles ; long leather gaiters, worked with colored beads and bugles, and tufts of many-colored worsted up outside legs ; spear, bow, tomahawk, scalp, for accessories, as required. {See page 52.) Triggers. — Woolly wig, maae out of old horsehair chair stuffing, sewn to a skull cap ; face, neck and hands corked j white shirt ; large turned down collar, trimmed with blue binding ; pink and white broad striped calico breeches to a little below knee: broad belt with large buckle; black stockings. ( See page 51 . ) Planter. — Very broad brimmed straw hat, lanky (black thread) hair sewn under, untrimmed beard and moustache, white cotton jacket, striped blue and white shirt, black belt and buckle, nankeen colored pants, slip- pers j stick to whittle, or slave whip, as accessories. Trappers, Gold Miners, etc — Broad-brimmed \vhite felt hat, lanky black (thread) hair, shaggy beard and moustache, or bushy black beard for variety ; red shirt, colored neckerchief, old gray or other colored walking trousers, cut to knees ; black belt and buckle, bowie knife and revolver therein j high black boots. Jack Tars are easily made up, with round straw hats with name of ship on dark blue ribbon j hair brushed back and terminating in a sturdy (worsted) pigtail; black bushy beard, over a jolly red face and pimpled nose ; white shirt, with broad turn down collar and cuffs, trimmed with GENERAL DrEECTIOXS OX ACTING. 59 light blue braid; black neckerchief with sailor's knot; white duck or deep indigo-blue trousers, full at the bot- tom; broad black belt and big brass buckle, pumps and buckles ; pistols, cutlass and boatswain's whistle, as acces- sories, when required. Mrs. Ganip and "sitch like" characters, are takingly made up with large coal-scuttle bonnet, gaily trimmed with ribbons, and preposterous flowers of the peony or hollyhock style, frilled cap showing under; flaring red shawl, black skirt, gouty boots ; big-bellied umbrella ; an inexhaustible basket, containing gin bottle, rubber over- shoes, snuff, peppermint-stick, pocket-handkerchief, brush and comb, sausages, etc., mixed " permiscous. 7, GENERAL DIRECTIONS ON ACTING. We do not for a moment pretend to be able to make our readers perfect actors, much less profess to offer au exhaus- tive article on the art of acting; for in the first place, suc- cess must depend upon the possession of a certain amount of natural aptitude for the imitation of character and the expression of the passions; and in the second place, it would be impossible to condense into one short chapter all that has been or could be written on elocution and appro- priate action, so we will only attempt to point out what is most important to be borne in mind by amateur actors and actresses. Don't be nervous ! When you have once made up your mind to join the ranks of an amateur company, enter heart and soul into the spirit of the enterprise, and never let the feeling come upon you that you are making a fool of your- self; for recollect if you do, any acting manager who knows his duty will let you know it; and if a bit of " gentle fooling" is worth doing, " go the whole hog" and do it heartily. Avoid nervousness when rehearsing with your compan- 60 GENEEAL DIRECTIONS ON ACTING. ions, and especially when before an audience. When you go upon the stage, do not let your heart come into your mouth, as the saying is, or mentally ask yourself, " Am I going to make a slip of any of my part V but enter boldly and say what you have to say self-collectedly. If you look into the auditorium, never attempt to recognize the faces of friends or foes, for an impish boy putting on a grimace, indicative of " what a mess you are making of it, 77 may upset you, or the bland smile and nod of recognition of some acquaintance may put you out, and the perception of some lady friend's roguish giggle may shut you up entirely. If you have to laugh, laugh out heartily and naturally, and never let it degenerate, through nervousness, into an abortive "Ha, ha," coming from the bottom of the throat instead of the top of it. Bear in mind, putting all ner- vousness aside, that laughing, like singing, requires honest practice. On the othee hand, nevee attempt to SUEJf OTTNT ~ NEEVOTTSNESS BY TOO EEEE A DISPLAY OE nonchalance, as it too often degenerates into mere vulgar impudence. Learn your part thoroughly! This is not only a duty to yourself, but to those with whom you act ; for should you forget a portion of the text, omit a cue, or come to a dead stand, you will cause others, who have learnt their parts well and conscientiously, to come to grief as well as your- self. Again, one who is known to boast that he knows his part well, and, fairing at rehearsal, amends his assertion by saying he will be " all right when the night comes," leaves his fellow actors in a state of suspense very detrimental to inducing that calmness of mind which is so conducive to Thespian success. Such selfish indolence ought to be stig- matized as it deserves whenever it comes under the obser- vation of an Acting Manager. Whenever there are con- versational bits, especially when the sentences are short, or but a mere interchange of a word or two right through a long dialogue, it is safe to learn your co-actor's pail as GENERAL DIRECTIONS OX ACTING. 61 well as your own, instead of the cues only, if you would ensure perfect success. First learn your own part till you have got it by heart perfectly, and are sure of the correct pronunciation of any out-of-the-way words, and get some one to test you without the book. Next try your part in conjunction with those you are immediately associated with in the piece, so as to be well prepared for the first renearsal. At rehearsal the Acting Manager will point out any defects or miscon- ceptions, and how you may improve your part generally. With improved conception, now study your part for appro- priate action, by-play, and any other kind of stage business the character and the situation demand. As at the first rehearsal the Acting Manager tests his company for their perfectness in the words of the play, correct reading, and conception of the parts, at the second rehearsal he will not only test them over the same ground, but also as to appropriate action and stage business, so that at the third rehearsal all ought to have a pretty correct notion of how to act their several parts, as well as being pat with the words, and be ready for a call for a dress rehearsal antecedent to the night of the performance. Speak out distinctly and as slowly as the part admits of. It is a very common thing to find a beginner try to get through his part as fast as a school -boy rattles orThis lesson in geography, and with the same amount of emphasis ; or to speak in a whisper, so that no one can guess at a word he says. This can only be got over by training and practice, through the constant watchfulness of the Acting Manager, keeping a constant check upon all such railway excursions of speech. Even in patter songs and parts every word must be distinctly enunciated, as any one well knows who has once heard that great master in patter parts — Charles Mathews. Emphasize your sentences! so as to give force to the part, and facilitate a just comprehension of the author's 62 GENERAL DIRECTIONS ON ACTING. text; but never let emphasis degenerate into rant or drivel. Emphasis involves the correct expression of the tragic, amatory and comic passions, ail the gradations of feeling and temperament, and makes the greatest call on the intellectual powers or genius of the actor. A chapter might he written upon this one head alone and yet fail to knock the perfect perception of feeling into a reader, for an actor, like a poet, "must be born, not made." It is, therefore, better to carefully note the rendering of our best actors and actresses, though even they are often too con- ventional and " stagey" to be strictly natural in their delivery. Mind your cues ! As your fellow actor in a scene his tale unfolds, keep your eyes and ears open for your own ewe— that is, the last word or two of the dialogue he has to speak before it is your turn to give forth, or it may be some act or action that gives you the signal to take up the acting. Where the paragraphs are long or of moderate length, it is easy to recollect your cues ; but where they are short, it is safer to learn your fellow actor's part as well as your own, that all may come pat, and the dialogue move smoothly. Suit the action to the ivord and the word to the action, neither too soon before, nor too late after, the word to be illustrated with appropriate action. Action must be natural, not exaggerated, or it degenerates into burlesque, rant or drivel. Facial expression forms a large part of the actor's stock in trade, as it adds immensely to a correct expression of toe passions depicted, whether they be those of love or hatred, power or despair, rage or calmness, admiration or contempt, pleasure or pain, malignity or tenderness, sarcasm or genial wit, etc.; and although lew persons use exactly the same method of portraying their emotions and passions, there are certain conventional rules adopted in general for giving them expression on the stage. GENERAL DIRECTIONS ON ACTING. 63 Anger is depicted by drawing the lips open so as to show the teeth firmly set ; shaking the head in a menacing man- ner, the eyes open widely, the eyebrows contracted, and the hands clenched. Fear is shown by a sudden shrinking backwards, as if preparing fur flight; the eyes and mouth widely opened, and the hands raised and trembling, as if to repel the object feared. Grief requires a solemn, impassive countenance; the eyelids lowered ; the head dejected; the hands nervously clenched, and pregnant sighs. Hatred is depicted by drawing back the foot nearest to the audience ; the head averted in the same direction ; the hands stretched out as if to repel the object hated, and the countenance expressing anger. Jealousy watches stealthily every movement of its object, with flashes of anger, grief and scorn, with an occasional gleam ot pleasure. Joy shows itself by a smiling, radiant face, dancing and clapping of hands. Scorn is expressed by turning with aversion from its ob- ject, the eyebrows elevated, the head drawn up, the cor- ners of the mouth drawn down, and the mouth set as if to say the word " pooh," accompanied by a wave of the hand, palm outwards. Wonder or astonishment is shown by resting the hands on the bended knees; the head forward; the eyes and mouth open; followed by a gradual straightening of the body and elevation ot the hands and arms, with the mouth set as if to say "Oh!" Trying to recollect something is done by bending the head down, with the eyebrows thoughtfully knit ; tapping the forehead with the forefinger. Recollection, following the foregoing effort, is expressed by raising the same forefinger upward, with a sudden gleam of intelligence and satisfaction on the countenance. 64 GENERAL DIRECTIONS ON ACTING. Attitude.— Your "pose" should be calm and dignified, except when the character demands different treatment. This, however, must never be exaggerated, except in the case of burlesque. On the other hand, although restlessness should be avoided, never stand stock still, or bolt upright like a tailor's dummy, unless in acting, as a supernumerary, the part of a soldier on guard. When a fellow actor is re- citing an adventure or legend, let your attitude, whether sitting, leaning or standing, indicate rapt attention and interest in what he is saying. This leads to the following important remark, viz., facial expression, appropriate ac- tion and attitude must not be studied to give effect to your own part only, but also to aid your fellow actors by adding co-operative expression to their parts, and give unity of conception to the scene represented. In some cases restlessness of attitude becomes necessary to the sit- uation, either in illustration of your own part or that of others, even to the extent of pacing the stage to and fro in an excited state of comic rage, etc., especially when you have to declare you are perfectly calm — not in the least de- gree excited, an assertion your entire action must ludi- crously contradict. If you have to rise from your chair and look off in nervous fear at something approaching, whether that something be ghost, burglar or assassin, rise and walk a step or two forward; but never hang hesitating over the cushion, and then when you have to dissemble plump back upon that domestic article for human support ; for such apparent loss of control over your centre of gravity may disturb the gravity of the audience, and evoke a gen- eral titter at what should be a very solemn moment. What ought I to do with my Hands and Arms f This is a question often asked by novices in the Thespian art. Well, though it has been said, as a rule, stand still, never let your upper limbs hang monotonously by your sides, like a toy grenadier. Quietly raise one hand to the waistband, sash ; or vest pocket, and let it rest there awhile ; fold the GENERAL DIRECTIONS ON ACTING. 65 arms across the chest, or place them behind the back, shrug the shoulders, or make other gestures with one or both arms, appropriate to what the others are saying ; anything, in fact, to avoid a monotonous pose, as long as it is not absurdly out of character with the scene or character represented. Never turn your Back to tlie Audience, unless it is abso- lutely necessary for you to do so, much less speak in such a position. Take Time yourself and give others Time for every Sen- tence to be distinctly delivered, so that the audience may have every chance of clearly comprehending all that is being said. It is a very common shortcoming of amateurs to speak too close upon the utterances of their fellow- actors, not unfrequentiy giving the answer to a question that has not been completely put, and so confusing actors and spectators alike. Business is a stage technicality for pantomimic action, employed in a variety of ways to suggest motive, or some event taking place oft" the stage, that either is not or could not be enacted thereon — such as the course of a boat or horse race — in which the characters' interests are involved. The turns of a battle or a naval engagement, or the pro- gress of a conflagration, the representation of cooking and eating a steak, or pointing out the victim for an assassina- tion while conspirators are slowly creeping across the back of the stage, may be cited as examples of u business." Farces very often abound with directions for business, and the success ot the piece depends upon the aptitude of the performers in giving humorous finishing touches to the author's text. Attend to Stage Entrances and Exits, as given in the stage directions for each play. In Fig. 23 is given a diagram to facilitate the proper comprehension of the terms em- ployed, and indicated by the well-known conventional symbols. 66 GENERAL DIRECTIONS ON ACTING. It will be seen from this disposition of entrances, doors ; etc., that the actor is supposed to face the audience, and not to look up the stage. D. R. C. D. C. D B. IT. E. Scene. . L. c. L.C L. U. E. i|j B . 3 E. L. 3E. jg" b.2e. 9