*?&* / v *^* y % *^y , v , „ . . 6 v v^V V-^*>* X « • ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION THE ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES MAIN OFFICE 121 Washington Street SEATTLE, WASHINGTON E. M. ROBINSON, Manager W. F. PARISH, Secretary Price, $1.25 LIBRARY of CONGRESS TwoCowes Received FEB 1 1906 CLASS j^'xXc. No. COPY B. * lT"9 1^ ^> PREFACE. In my many years of active personal experience in the Barber trade and its co-relative branches, as Journeyman Workman, Master Barber, Chief In- structor and Manager of various Barber Colleges, I have been enabled by observation and practice to formulate and set forth the following plain, com- prehensive and detailed set of rules. I feel satisfied that if carefully studied, they must be of inestimable value to the prospective student, apprentice or jour- neyman, in acquiring a rudimentary or primary knowledge of the essential points or features of the Tonsorial art. The many illustrations coupled with the paragraphed explanations are so plain and complete in detail as to enable the student to thor- oughly comprehend them. When supplemented by a course at one of our colleges, can not fail to make of the most mediocre pupil, a competent artist. J=J 3 OC/i? SPOKANE HOME E. M. %0B1NS0N cManager and Chief Insiructor PART I. --HONING, STROPPING HONING ROOM Upon entering the college the student is first taken into the honing room, apart from the main working room, and is there taken in hand by the instructor, and taught the first lesson in honing and stropping the razor. This instruction is by per- sonal illustration; the manner of holding and turn- ing the razor in the hand by the fingers without turning the hand; the angle at which it should be drawn across the hone, 45 degrees, as illustrated below; starting the heel of the razor at or near the end of the hone and terminating the stroke with the point of the razor at the center of the hone, carrying it at all times at the angle above stated, and perfectly flat at all times. FIGURE NO. 1. CORRECT HONING POSITION. (Note carefully position of hand and angle at which razor is drawn. This is one of the most dif- ficult arts to acquire and should be carefully studied.) When reversing to take the back stroke, turn the razor with edge up, and do not commence back 8 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. stroke until the razor is held at the right angle and perfectly flat on the hone; carrying from heel to point, and then back to first position, as illustrated below. FIGURE NO. 2. Second Position, or Back Handed Stroke. These exercises are had with old razors furnished by the college, until the pupil has mastered the art of detecting when the proper smooth, sticky edge is obtained. This can be acquired only by practical illustration from the instructor who draws the razor across the thumb or finger nail of the pupil, who is thus enabled to detect by the sensitive feeling on the nail, how it feels when the desired edge is ob- tained. No amount of verbal instruction is effective in carrying to the novice's mind the character of the indescribable feeling above referred to; it can only be learned by actual college experience. The new tools are not furnished the student until they have thoroughly mastered the art of honing and stropping. There is nothing mysterious or intricate in learn- ing to hone properly; with proper attention and ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 9 instruction competency is readily acquired. Many times when trouble is had with razors, the operator is as much to blame as the razor. Barbers are mor- tal and have their off days, at such times they can- not get satisfactory work out of the best tools, in the best of condition. CHARACTER 01; HONE. The Belgian Water Hone is used exclusively in the Robinson system of colleges, for the reason that they are nearly all of uniform grade and fineness, and the student is not so apt to overhone on them as when a Swaty one is used. The latter vary so much in fineness and grit that the beginner is al- most sure to experience much trouble in overhoning on them. By dampening the hone frequently and using the rubber to produce a liberal quantity of grit, a smooth, keen, sticky edge can always be produced. The proper method of honing a razor is to draw the blade, edge foremost, across the stone with the heel in advance, at an angle of forty-five degrees, the razor will then pass diagonally across the grit of the stone, as indicated in figures Nos. 1 and 2, causing the teeth which compose the cutting edge to incline towards the heel. The figure below No. 3 shows a razor ready for stropping after being honed on a Belgian Water Stone, and was subjected to iden- tically the same microscopic examination as figure No. 4, which shows the condition of a razor after being honed on a Swaty. The relative frequency, size and angle of the teeth are clearly shown, and speak 10 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. volumes for the supremacy of the Water Hone, as against the Swaty, particularly for the beginner. FIGURES NOS. 3 AND 4. The upper figure, or No. 3, shows the Razor after Honing" on a Belgian Water Hone, while the lower, or No. 4, shows the same Razor after heing Honed on a Swaty. STROPPING. Next to correct honing, stropping is the most im- portant trick of the trade, as often after first securing a good edge on the hone, it is ruined by careless stropping. The edge and back must be both held ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 11 gently, though firmly on the strop and drawn over it with the razor held at right angles as shown in cut No. 5. FIGURE NO. 5. THE PROPER METHOD OF STROPPING. (Note position of hand in stropping.) It should be turned on the strop, edge up, same as on the hone, with the back always resting on the strop. The proper time to strop the razor is after the beard is lathered and prepared for shaving, as immediately after coming from the strop the edge is keener and smoother than is the case where it is laid aside for awhile. The razor should be turned in the hand by a movement similar to that employed in honing. 12 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. PREPARATORY OBSERVATION. After thoroughly mastering the art of properly preparing the tools to do satisfactory work, the student is now ready to enter the college proper and assume a position at the chair. That too many new ideas may not be crowded in the student's mind simultaneously, to their detriment and confusion, they are permitted to spend the first day or two in observing the manner in which the older pupils perform their work. This enables them to better memorize the various positions and move- ments in seriatim, and is a great aid in preparing them to receive and absorb to the fullest, the actual demonstration work which they are ready to receive from the instructor. PRIVATE DEMONSTRATION. In a private demonstration room, adjoining the main practice room, are several chairs at which the first actual lessons in Barbering are given. Here the student just commencing is removed from the direct observation of their class-mates or others, except the instructor, until they have acquired a measure of self confidence and enough dexterity in the use of the tools, as well as the position in which to hold and draw them, as will insure their freedom from embarrassment when they enter the college proper. This method of semi-private instruction, in effect and practice only at the Robinson System of Colleges, is provided particularly for lady pupils, and gentlemen whose modesty and sensitiveness ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 13 would cause it to appeal to them " until they become accustomed to the work and feel that they are the equals of their fellow students. WRIST AND FREE ARM MOVEMENT. The importance of developing the flexibility of the muscles of the wrist and forearm cannot be overestimated. By assiduous application to the Bot- tle exercise and free arm movement, this flexibility can be developed. Such exercise could be taken at home, prior to entering the college. With the aid of the lessons and instructions of this work much primary progress can be made which will be of great benefit in advancing the pupil rapidly. 14 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. PART II--SHAVING The successful barber must be an adept at shav- ing. It is pre-eminently the rock upon which their reputation is founded. Their success in drawing trade to the other departments of a well conducted shop, and in which the principal profits are made, will depend in large degree upon the ability to give a close, smooth, rapid shave. It is the first service performed on the patron, and if done in a gentle, smooth manner, will place the customer in such a satisfied and cheerful frame of mind that during its progress he will more read- ily listen to the operator's suggestions for a Hair Cut, Shampoo, or Massage, with the result that it paves the way to cause the customer to accept the greatest amount of service. A poor shave will have the reverse effect. You will not only lose the extra work, but subsequent patronage as well. The up-to-date barber will never ask the patron to accept of a hair cut as soon as he takes the chair. First go on and give the customer the cleverest shave possible; show him you are an artist as well as an agreeable person. He will then be more apt to accept your pleasantly phrased suggestions and take all, or nearly all, the service you offer and are competent to perform. There is more in method and in policy than might appear at first glance to the uninitiated. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 15 SHAVING MOVEMENTS. First: Take a position at the right side of the chair, the left hand on the head rest, the right hand on the reclining lever, permit the patron to be seated com- fortably, then gently recline the chair to the proper position. Second: Remove with the right hand the Hair Cloth, which should at all times, when not in use, be clev- erly folded and laid on the right arm of the chair. Spread it over the patron, drawing it well up over the cravat; then place the neck towel on the breast with the corner well back of the right ear; tuck neatly between collar and neck to the center, or apple in neck, then take the opposite corner in the right hand and carry back of the left ear, tucking in as on the other side. This will leave the lower end of the towel laying square across the breast and overlapping the Hair Cloth. Place the shaving pa- per below the end of the neck towel and you are ready for lathering. Third: Take the lather mug in the left hand and pro- ceed to the hot water boiler; rinse out cup and brush thoroughly before using on each customer; add a few drops of boiling water and stir the lather to about the consistency of cream. Apply to the beard by a gentle rotary movement, holding the 16 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. head in the palm of the left hand, so that it may- be turned at will with ease, completely covering the entire surface to be shaved. Avoid as much as possible getting the lather between the lips, and should any so lodge, remove it with the index finger covered with a portion of the towel. This is impor- tant, as much of the pleasure of a shave is marred by a careless daubing of the customer's mouth and mus- tache with lather. Rub the beard thoroughly with the right hand, then spread a smooth coating of lather over all por- tions to be shaved, this to keep the face from dry- ing in spots, while you are stropping the razor. Now wipe your hands dry and commence to strop. Fourth: Take the razor you are about to use and strop on the canvas side first, finishing up on the leather. With the right thumb draw a line of demarka- tion, removing the lather from above the center of the right ear, around and close under to the hair line. Wipe the thumb dry on the towel covering the head rest, and place it above the shaving line, drawing the skin tight and straight up, never side- ways. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 17 FIGURE NO. 6. First Position in Shaving*, Showing* How to Hold the Razor. Fifth: With the razor open in the right hand, as shown in figure 6 above, which is first position, proceed to draw the first downward stroke, cutting across the beard at an angle of forty-five degrees towards you. Continue downward about two thirds the length of 18 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. the cheek, cleaning the shaved portion of the face thoroughly as you go, so the left hand will not slip in drawing the skin tight when the second position or back handed stroke is employed as shown in figure 7. FIGURE NO. 7. (Second position or back hand stroke.) (Note carefully how far down the face is shaved in first movement and the point at which the second position commences.) ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 19 Sixth: With razor in hand as shown on preceding page, the second movement or position is commenced. With this movement the face should be shaved to the point of the chin, drawing the razor across the beard at an angle of forty-five degrees from you. Seventh: The operator now goes back to first position in holding the razor, commencing at the point of the chin and shaving the under jaw and neck down to the grain of the hair, as shown in figure below. FIGURE NO. 8. (Note carefully how far down the neck is shaved in this movement.) 20 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. FIGURE TSfO. 9. Pigmre 9 Shows the Operator Shaving" the Neck, Using- Third Position. Eighth: In completing the right side of the face, by shaving the lower part of the neck up to the grain line of the hair, the artist may take either the first or third position, preferably the latter, for the rea- son that in using it the operator is not required to ILLUSTRATED BOOK OP INSTRUCTION. 21 change his position, while in the former it is nec- essary to step directly back of the chair and hold the razor as illustrated in figure 6, shown on page 17. By employing the third position in shaving the lower part of the neck on the right side of the face, the razor must be drawn at the usual angle of forty-five degrees towards the operator, com- mencing at the bottom of the hair and drawing the stroke upward and towards the operator at the usual angle of forty-five degrees, as shown in fig- ure 9. Ninth: Should the lather dry while shaving the right side, turn the patron's head, presenting the left side of the face, relather it, and proceed to strop the razor. In starting to shave the left side of the face, trace out the line of demarkation as formerly on the right side; either of three positions, namely, the first, with the hand turned over, the right thumb on back of razor, as illustrated in figure 10. Or second position, using the back handed stroke, as shown in figure 7, or third position, as shown in figure 9, may be used in starting. This side of the face to be divided in shaving exactly sim- ilar to the right side. When the upper portion of the left side of the face is shaved, change to position as shown in figure 11, which is first position as used on left side, continuing to point of chin. 22 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. FIGURE NO. 10. (Note particularly this position; it is the most up-to-date, safest and speediest, for the reason that it is only necessary to rapidly turn the hand, to take first position without turning or changing the razor in the hand.) rL LU ST RATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. FIGURE NO. 11. Piirure U Shows the Operator Vuing Left Side of Pace. Pirst Position on 24 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. Then take second position, or back handed stroke, and shave to line of hair, as shown in figure 12. FIGURE NO. 12. Figure 12 Is Second Position on Left Side of Face. Now, back to third position, as shown in figure 9. This is one of the hardest places to shave. Great care must be exercised to keep the skin drawn tightly, as illustrated in figure 13 on next page. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 25 FIGURE NO. 13. (This same method of drawing the skin tight may be used on both sides of the face.) Both sides of the face being now completed, atten- tion is directed to the chin and underlip. In shav- ing the chin use first position, taking care to draw the skin tightly between the left thumb and index finger, as shown in figure 14 on next page, shaving from left to right side. 26 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. FIGURE NO. 14. Figure 14 Shows Method of Drawing" Skin Tight Across Chin. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 2 7 Shaving up to the crease and about one half inch below the point of chin, with the thumb and index finger gently raise the chin, and use first or second position in shaving, the neck downward to grain line of hair. Now step back of the chair and complete the neck shaving, using first position; raise to lower lip and finish in like manner, being careful to carry- razor flat on angle of lip. In shaving the upper lip, take razor in first po- sition as shown in figure 6, shaving the right side from within one quarter inch of the center or upper lip crease, to the corner of the mouth. Stretch the skin by placing the thumb below the corner of the mouth and the index finger on the nose. To shave the left side, turn the head slightly and take second position or back handed stroke, as shown in figure 7. Finish the center of crease, by pressing the skin out between the left thumb and index finger, hold- ing the razor in either the first or second position, whichever is most convenient. Tenth: The patron is now shaved once over. The next thing to do is to clean and close the razor before placing it on the work bench. Never leave it open. Procure towel dampened in hot water and wipe the face thoroughly of all lather; strop the razor again and pick up the water bottle with the right hand, holding the razor between the thumb and index finger, as shown in figure No. 15. ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. FIGURE NO. 15. (Note carefully this position. It is difficult to do cleverly at first, though most convenient and grace- ful.) ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 29 With the water bottle in the right hand, dash a small quantity in the palm of the left hand and dampen the face moderately. To give a medium close shave, start at the chin, drawing the razor quarterly against the grain, holding the razor at an angle of forty-five degrees. To give a very close shave, draw the razor directly against the grain of the hair, keeping the face dampened at all times. To determine when the whole surface of the face is properly shaved, keep the left hand flat on the face, never depend on the tips of the fingers, as you will be apt to skip small portions. Wipe the face again with a moderately hot towel. You are ready now to apply any one of the follow- ing face lotions or washes, Bay Rum, Witch Hazel Bay, Hazeline, Laureline, Almond Lotion, Lilac Anti- septic, Kern's Antiseptic Lotion, Antiseptic Cutizene or Florida Water. Rub in well with both hands, covering the whole face. Dry the face with a clean towel. Finish the patron with any one of the following face creams: Witch Hazel Cream, Oriental Cream, Menthol Cream, Camphor Cream, Cold Cream, Violet Face Cream, Cream of Roses, or Alaska Face Cream. Rub the cream in well, and fan the face with an open towel until the cream is thoroughly dried in. Then apply French Borated Talcum Powder, by sprinkling on the hands and rub in thoroughly. If the patron wears a mustache and wishes it curled or dyed, this is the position in which to do it. The curling may be done with a heated slate pencil or the fingers using tin foil or paper. When this is completed, raise the customer gently in the chair; 30 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. take the towel from in front and tuck in on the back of the neck and shave the neck in accordance with the style of hair cut worn. Take the water or tonic bottle in the right hand; place the left hand on the crown of the head. Ruf- fle up the hair gently and squirt enough water on to dampen slightly, rubbing the hair at the same time. Be careful to note the style the patron's hair was combed in taking the chair, and try to duplicate, using oil or vaseline if desired. The patron should always be asked if he cares for tonic of any kind to be used. If he so elects the hair should be brush- ed dry with a good stiff bristled brush before apply- ing tonic, then rub tonic in well with the hands. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 31 PART III--HAIR CUTTING The art of hair cutting can be successfully devel- oped only by those having a cultivated eye for form, judgment, good taste and mechanical skill acquired by large practice conscientiously performed. In the Robinson system of Colleges, the opportu- nities to bring out and fully develop all these at- tributes is offered on a generous scale. Every age and variety of subject in endless number, embracing all kinds and conditions of hair, as well as most every shaped head, is presented to the student to operate upon. This, coupled with expert instruction given in detail, by practical illustration, as well as verbal, cannot fail to make of anyone who takes an active interest in the art, and tries to learn, a thoroughly competent artist in this particular line. A close study of the shape of the patron's head, the exercise of good judgment in determining what form or character of hair cut will be most becom- ing, and infinite patience in working towards the accomplishment of the results sought, will go a long way in perfecting the operator. The great majority of people have to a greater or less extent some imperfection, defect or malfor- mation of the skull, and hence it is necessary that the successful barber be able to obliterate or at. least minimize the effects produced by these condi- tions, without embarrassing the patron by pointing them out, or seeking advice as to how to remedy 32 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. them. Here is where tact and good judgment of form will stand you well in hand. The following suggestions if carefully studied and memorized will prove of value in directing your ef- forts along right and successful lines: First: When the patron is shaved, and voluntarily or otherwise accedes to your solicitation for the priv- ilege of cutting or trimming the hair, make a minute, mental survey of the contour of the head. Note whether or not the last hair cut was a becoming one, as well as any imperfections or irregularities, such as cowlick, scars, thin spots, etc. Then form your own idea as to what style would be best suited to the case in hand. This requires but a minute and will save much time and trouble and produce better results than if no study of conditions were made. Second: A physiognomical observation, by glancing through the mirror from the rear of the customer, is also an important point in order to enable the artist to do a becoming job. Third: The ear-lock: Front of the ear should never be cut so high as to expose the end of the cheek bone, especially when it is prominent and the temple re- cedes (is hollow), and it should be cut either square or round and never pointed. Fourth: It is poor taste to cut the hair high up at the back. It should run down an inch or two below the bottom ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 33 of the ear, according to the length of the neck and cut horseshoe shape and not too square, especially on a broad neck, but on a thin neck it should be cut fuller at the sides. A rather pointed round shape lengthens the appearance of a short, broad neck, while a less pointed, or fuller round shape broad- ens it. Fifth: The hair should not be left too blunt at the edges. When it is worn short and cut at the back it should be almost feather edged. This gives it a finished appearance. To define lines is too artificial and like the creases of ready made clothing. Sixth: The artistic hair cutter aims at improving the ap- pearance of the shape of the head by leaving the hair rather full over part of the head, lacking in fullness, and by cutting it shorter (thinner) over the too prominent parts, so as to give the head an even and well rounded contour. Seventh: A large and perfect shaped head will stand a short cut, while a small, or irregularly shaped head should be covered by the aid of long hair. Eighth: To work rapidly and cleverly on a hair cut, it is essential that the habit of holding and using the shears and comb to the best advantage to save time and avoid cumbersome movements, be studied and religiously practiced. The most generally accepted method of starting is to commence on the side of the head, just above the ear, though, if preferred, 34 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. the operator may commence at the back with equally good results. Figure No. 16 gives the proper method of holding the tools. FIGURE NO. 16. (Proper method of holding shears and comb. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 35 It will be noted that the shears and comb are both held in the right hand at all times, thus enabling the operator to avoid the delay incident to changing the comb from the right to the left hand, when the hair is held between the index and second finger, pre- paratory to clipping. The comb is held between the third and fourth or little finger, with the taper end resting firmly against the heel of the right hand. This position gives free use of the shears while the hair is held in the left hand. The following plates are of the latest, most popu- lar, and up-to-date hair cuts, and will give the student or journeyman a clear and comprehensive insight into the styles which should most largely occupy their attention, and to which practice should be most directed. Plate No. 17 illustrates a Clipper Cut or Full Crown. It is a very dressy and chic way of cutting the hair on young men, ranging from ten to sixteen years, and is invariably becoming to persons of that age. It is simple and rapid to perform. The clippers are used more extensively than in any other; it is only important that care be exercised in lining up grace- fully from the crown of the head to the point at which the clippers are dispensed with, and the shears employed to finish on the longer hair in front. The length of the hair from the crown of the head to the front should increase gradually without any per- ceptible joggle, or difference, effacing the line at which the clippers and shears met. 36 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER POT/JVEGES. ! FIGURE NO. 17. PigTire 17 Illustrates Clipper Cut, or Pull Crown. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 37 FIGURE NO. 18. Figrure 18 Illustrates a Half Crown Hair Cut. 38 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. The half crown cut illustrated in Plate No. 18 is performed in exactly the same manner, except that the clipper line should terminate about one inch above the top of the ear, leaving the hair in front somewhat longer and fuller looking than the clipper cut shown in plate No. 17, and finds its most appro- priate subjects ranging from sixteen to eighteen years. FIGURE NO. 19. Figure No. 19 Illustrates a Quarter Shingle Cut. This is what is termed a quarter shingle; is pop- ular with young business men and clerks and has ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 39 a tendency to give fullness of appearance to the back of the head and neck. To people inclined to slenderness, the bottom is trimmed square. This style becomes most any shaped head, and is particularly suited to heads lacking the proper con- tour of fullness at the back, and with a full fore- head and face. It is also adapted to cover a thin or long neck. It is quarter shingled and may vary in length in proportion to the size of the head and length of the neck, from three to four inches all over the head, excepting on the back of the neck and around the ears it is shingled about an inch shorter, on the tip ends, not too high up; from one half to one inch high. When it is to be worn parted in the center and brushed down flat, the front hair should be left long enough to reach down to the ears, and avoid a break at the corners of the forehead. But when it is intended to be roached up or brushed back, the top lock may be cut a little shorter. Either the cen- ter, side or double part may be worn with this cut. Or it may be worn brushed back. Pompadour style (without parting). 40 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. FIGURE NO. 20. The above plate illustrates identically the same style of cut as No. 19, except the hair is wavy. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OP INSTRUCTION. 41 FIGURE NO. 21. Plate No. 21. This plate shows a medium full back, "a la mode." This style is pretty much like No. 20, excepting that it is cut a little longer. It is becoming to medium size head. The back view shows the circle of a full horseshoe and the proper height that it should be cut. 42 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. FIGURE NO. 22. Plate No. 22.. This plate shows long hair as worn by musicians, elocutionists, lecturers, preachers, and other professional men. The hair is about four inches long all over the head and shingled around the edges down to one and one half inches. It is cut very low down on the neck, to almost reach down to the coat collar. It may be worn parted in the center, side, or brush- ed back without parting, German student style. The style becomes most any shaped head, but is more becoming to small heads and long necks. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 43 FIGURE NO. 23. Figure No. 23 Represents the Pompadour Cut. The pompadour illustrated above (No. 23) while not so much employed as formerly, is nevertheless still much in vogue among a certain class. In mak- ing this cut, the hair is dampened and a little pomade or vaseline is rubbed well into the hair to make it lay or brush up while the line of trimming is being struck. This line should taper only slightly down- ward from the front to the crown or back. 44 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. FIGURE NO. 24. Military, or English. Peatlier Edg-e. The hair cut illustrated in Plate No. 24 above, is one not easily performed; the neck trimming or shaving is much harder than in hair cuts that re- quire a perfectly round or square outline on the bottom. In this style it is necessary to draw a nearly straight shaving line from behind the ear, along the quarter of the neck to as far down as the hair grows. It is called and generally known as the "Military or English Featheredge." It is much in vogue among military men and those who dress in uniforms. To trim to a feather edge and make a ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 45 neat job, the fine end of the barber comb or a special neck comb must be used. The clippers are never employed in this hair cut; the work is entirely done with comb and shears. The front is finished much the same as the half shingle shown in plate No. 19. FIGURE NO. 25. The "Duchess," or "Martha Johnson." The Duchess or Martha Johnson hair cut shown in plate No. 25 is worn mostly by children, ranging in age from three to ten years. As illustrated, the front is cut on a slight curve about midway down the forehead, and in the back it is cut or bobbed off at the hair line on the neck. It is left quite full all around, so that the ears and just back of the temple may be heavily covered. 46 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. FIGURE NO. 26. The above figure shows a side view of a "Business Cut," and is similar to the "A-la-mode" shown in Figure 21, except that it is not cut so high in the neck. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 47 LINING UP. One of the most essential points in producing a neat looking hair cut is to use great care in out- lining the bottom and edges; drawing the curve or straight line, as the case may be, in a true uniform manner. This will give the appearance of good balance. It is also important that from the starting line at the bottom and side edges, the finish give the appearance of a very gradual, in fact, almost im- perceptible increase in length, to the point of great- est fullness or length of hair. 48 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. USE OF CLIPPERS. In later years the style of hair cutting has in a very general way undergone many changes. Where formerly the clippers were frequently resorted to as an aid in rapid work, the introduction and adop- tion of the new or latest styles, as illustrated in this book from actual photographs and line drawings from life, have been of such a character as to almost elim- inate the clipper. Nowadays the patron demands a hair cut of a style that requires that the work be done almost entirely with the shears and comb. However, it is important to learn to operate the clippers in a dexterous and rapid manner. This can be accomplished by paying close attention to learning from the start to give a full stroke from extreme to extreme and not crowd them along too fast; carry them on a true line, controlling them in such a way that they will not wobble. One of the best exercises is to draw a line on a piece of paper; trace it out while moving the side of the clipper along the line and endeavor to note the progress of running true to the line. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 49 FIGURE NO. 27. SINGEING. The practice of singeing the hair as illustrated in the above cut, which shows the proper method, is employed in most cases on persons whose hair is of fine texture, inclined to brittleness and of sparing growth and density. By singeing, the ends of the hair are supposed to become hermetically sealed, and to retain all the natural oil that would, to some degree, otherwise bleed or leak out of the 50 ROBINSON SYSTEM OP BARBER COLLEGES. hair, and thereby rob the sebaceous glands and hair follicles of the nutriment requisite to its growth and development. It also prevents the hair from splitting at the ends and breaking off. Singeing should be done im- mediately after the hair is cut and the taper must be passed rapidly over the hair ends, while the same is held in the comb or finger. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 51 PART IV--BEARD TRIMMING A FEW POINTS TO BE OBSERVED IN TRIMMING BEARD. First: The beard and the hair should never be discon- nected on the temple; they should be cut to blend into each other evenly. Second: When a beard is trimmed close to the side of the face and the chin beard is worn long, it should be of a gradual length so as to meet the long beard without showing a blunt edge or a notch at the side of the chin, so as to avoid the appearance of a chin beard and the newly grown beard on the other part of the face. Third: When the beard is worn long, or a medium length, the side below the ears on the end of the jaw should be trimmed so as to avoid bushiness. It should also be trimmed of a gradual length under the jaw and chin and come to a close cut on the lower part of the neck. Fourth: When the beard grows sparingly, or of a lighter shade, on the side of the face, and grows thick, or of a darker shade, on the chin, it should not be trim- 52 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. med very close over the chin or light part, so as to equalize the appearance. Fifth: After having trimmed a beard or mustache the proper shape with the shears, a razor held firmly over the comb should be drawn over the surface of the beard or mustache by combing it, to shave the rough, straggling hair and give the beard a soft appearance. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 53 FIGURE NO. 28. "ENGLISH MILITARY" This style whisker is becoming to most any face, excepting a very short or full face. It is shaven up on the side, from the corner of the mouth straight back to 1 or 1% inches below the ears. It is trim- med short — about one half inch long on full face and from 1 to iy 2 inches on a thin face. With this whis- ker the mustache should be rolled well up and comb- ed out loose and brushed back, or the curling iron may be used to give it an easy bend. 54 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. FIGURE NO. 29. rigmre No. 29 Shows a Russian Point Trim. This style of beard is becoming to a thin face or to a pointed or narrow chin. It is trimmed y 2 to % inch long on the side, according to the fullness of the face. Gradually increasing in length to iy 2 inches at the center of the chin. On the side of the chin clear up to the mustache it is cut to give the chin the proper shape, and trimmed under the jaw to bring it down to a feather edge on the neck and also on the cheek when the beard grows up high and thick. The top of the cheeks and lower part of ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 55 the neck may be either shaven or clipped, then the edges of the beard featheredged to blend with the shaven edge. The mustache is slightly bent with a curling iron, or with the ringers, then combed or brushed up loosely. FIGURE NO. 30. THE VAN DYKE OR BUSINESS MAN'S STYLE is one of the most popular both in style and com- fort. It is very largely worn in hot weather; it gives the profile of the face in a more clear way 56 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. than most any other style. In addition it is a trim that is easily accomplished by taking care to have the point terminate exactly below the center line of the chin, and the length of the hair gradually dimin- ish to a point nearly opposite to the corners of the mouth. From there to the hair line above the ear it should be closely cropped and cleverly blended into the hair line. FIGURE NO. 31. rigmre No. 31 Illustrates the "Lord Dundreary" Trim. Shows the "Lord Dundreary," whisker — old but stylish and becoming to a tall man and dignifying ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 57 to the appearance of the wearer, hence suitable to a professional man. This beard runs down to the corner of the mouth and the chin is shaven straight down, a little wider on the neck. It is slightly trimmed at the ears, from the hair down to the end of the jaw below the ears; then the straggling hairs clipped down to avoid bushiness and the ends of the whiskers trimmed to a point. This should be done twice or three times a month. The hair on the temple should be trimmed down to blend with the whiskers. In dressing this beard, it should be oiled with a little brilliantine, then brushed down from the ears and brushed back from the chin. 58 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. FIGURE NO. 32. The Parted Beard, or "Dude Lewis" Trim. THE DIVIDED BEARD. Worn almost exclusively by members of the legal and medical profession. In trimming this beard, the first thing to do is to thoroughly brush the beard to either side from the middle, draw an imaginary line from the lobe of the ear vertically and trim the outline accordingly. This gives the square jawed appearance, and widens the effect of the face. This is the desideratum. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 59 FIGURE NO. 33. THE FULL BEARD. This shows a "Full Beard;" this may be worn with or without a mustache and the length and fullness should be in correspondence with the size of the wearer, and should be trimmed weekly or semi- monthly. The sides by the ears should be cut short enough to harmonize with the fullness of the face, also on the end of the jaw bone below the ears. The end is trimmed to a point, either round or sharp, 60 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. to suit the wearer's fancy and be in keeping with the features. The wild hairs should be clipped to give it a neat, smooth appearance. When through trimming a beard the razor should be used over the comb (to shave the end of the hair, which is cut square off by the shears), to give it a soft feeling. BEARD TRIMMING. Beard trimming is also an art, equally as important, if not more so, than hair cutting. The face of a per- son is noticed before a glance of the head is taken. Whatever beard a man wears, it should be trimmed and shaped to harmonize with his features; whether it is a full beard, or other style of whiskers. Every man should wear some kind of beard, as it was given man to ornament his face, as hair is given to orna- ment the head of a woman. It also gives distinction of power. In olden times a long and heavy beard was considered an indication of wisdom. A hand- some man is handsomer with the proper style of beard, and homely or coarse features are softened by the wearing of becoming whiskers, which detract from the coarseness of the features. A full beard when properly trimmed becomes most every man, but when it does not grow full enough, or of any even thickness, it may be shaven in various styles. The short, broad face is improved by a chin beard, while a long, thin face is broadened and ap- pears shorter by wearing side whiskers. A mus- tache shades off a large nose, also covers a homely ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 61 mouth, bad teeth and thick lips. The Imperial (or goatee) is trying to certain types of face, although it has been extensively, and is still, worn by many. THE MUSTACHE. Mustache trimming should also be done with art and not only with the aim of shortening it. Few mustaches are improved by trimming. An extremely long, straggling mustache may be trim- med down some, without giving it a stiff, bristle- like appearance. Or a ragged mustache may be trimmed to improve the shape and be made to look smooth, and some mustaches may look fairly well trimmed down brush style, but it must be shingled some to give it a shape. The square cut — broom style — is almost too ugly to be worn. Another homely way to trim a mustache is to cut it short over the mouth and to leave long ends, Chinese like. The ends should always be trimmed down to harmonize with the balance. A mustache should always be dressed or rolled to give it a natural, easy appearance. When it is rolled on paper or curled with an iron or slate pen- cil it should be combed out in an easy and natural way. Artificial appearances should always be avoid- ed. It is very poor taste to leave the mustache rolled up in a bunch. 62 ROBINSON SYSTEM OP BARBER COLLEGES. PART V--HAIR DRESSING No up-to-date barber, and especially lady barbers, can well afford to neglect learning the art of hair- dressing. It has of late years become one of the principal sources of income to many of the first class shops, and so long as the country is blessed with prosperous times, the competent hairdresser must continue to enjoy a large patronage. Much of the success that attends the competent artists in this line is the result in a large way, of personal effort. In every community where social entertainments, dances, weddings and parties of one kind and an- other are held, and upon all public occasions, the average lady would be only too glad to have her coiffure prepared by a competent artist, if such service were at hand. If through personal effort a number of the lead- ing ladies of the community can be induced to try the experiment, it will be surprising how soon a good trade can be developed in this line, both at the shop, and in making calls, by appointment, at the residences of patrons. There is no calling that can be learned so readily and easily, and none that so little stock and so much of labor is used in turning out satisfactory work. This means nearly all clear profit. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OP INSTRUCTION. 63 Another great advantage offered to lady barbers learning the hairdressing trade, is the splendid op- portunity it presents of enabling them to meet and become favorably acquainted with the foremost women of the community. It is, therefore, neces- sary for the artist to learn the trade thoroughly and completely, familiarizing themselves with the latest Parisian and Domestic coiffures. The only place the trade can be learned in this manner in the North- west is at one of the branches of the "Robinson System of Barber Colleges." By a careful study of the following plates a good idea of the method of starting to prepare and the progress and development of the work during the accomplishment of a stylish and up-to-date hair- dress may be had. The trade is taught complete in all its branches in all the institutions under this management. These plates were made from life drawings of Hairdress prepared by our Lady In- structor. The following five plates give, in seriatim the form and mode, from start to completion, of a pointed pompadour, showing the back and front side view, as finished. _i__f : IJ 64 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. FIGUXE NO. 34. Plate No. I. Wave the hair all around the head, part the hair transversely from ear to ear, also make a side part- ing and raise the hair on the sides, leaving it very fluffy and fasten with combs as indicated in the design. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 65 FIGURE NO. 35. Plate No. 2. With the hair which has been tied in the center of the head toward the back, after dividing it into three parts from three rolled puffs. FIGURE NO. 36. Plate NO. III. Add a stem of hair about thirty inches long and 66 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. with part of it first form a ring which is held in the left hand, then with the right hand form another ring which is placed on one side. Repeat this on the other side. FIGURE NO. 37. Plate No. IV. After fastening the knot at the base of the neck, add the ornament, which is composed of two branches of roses and leaves forming a half crown and raised in front. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 67 FIGURE NO. 38. Plate No. V. PROFILE VIEW OF THE TERMINATED COIFFURE. 68 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. FIGURE NO. 39. NEW PATENT OR POINTED POMPADOUR. This is a strikingly beautiful Coiffure for ladies having a short, full appearing face. It has the effect of giving a lengthened appearance to the countenance, as shown in this front view. The dip gives it a smart, chic tone; it is easily prepared. The two smaller plates give the type of ready-to-use pompa- dour employed in its construction. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OP INSTRUCTION. 89 FIGURE NO. 40. Fignre No. 40 illustrates the "Mary Anderson" or Parted Hairdress, Pront View. ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. FIGUBE NO. 41. Figure No. 41 is the Bide View of the same Eairdress as Figure No. 40, and is one of the latest and most fashionable prepared. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 71 FIGURE NO. 42. Figure No. 42 represents a much similar Hairdress, ex- cept that it is made up lower down in the Neck. 72 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. SHAMPOOING FIGURE NO. 43. The above Figure shows the Artist in the act of Sham- pooing the Head. In applying the shampoo material, either in liquid or paste form, care must be exercised to not use too much water, nor permit the lather to run into the eyes or down the neck. In rinsing the hair over the basin, the work should be done thoroughly, and the head and neck well dried before allowing the patron to as- sume an erect position, thus obviating the difficulty, often experienced, of allowing water to run down the face and neck of the customer. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 73 MANICURING. Manicuring is the art of trimming the nails evenly, cutting the cuticle, bleaching, polishing and treating hang nails. The trade is thoroughly taught in our Colleges and the latest and most modern tools are furnished the student. Competent instructors direct your every movement. The average price for the service is 50 cents and the time required to perform it is from twenty min- utes to one-half hour. Men are usually charged as much as 50 per cent, more than ladies for like service, owing to the rougher character of the hands. 74 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. HAIR TREATMENT AND KNOWLEDGE. Hair is, indeed, very like money, when one comes to think of it. When you have plenty of money, you don't appreciate it; 'tis the same with hair. Your hair, like your money, fades away easily and you hardly realize what has happened to you. So one day you put your hand to your head and realize that you are a candidate for the front row. Or something causes you to go into your jeans for the roll and you are surprised at the way it has shrunk. Something has happened to your hair, and it is going. Something also has knocked your roll. Thus, there are two kinds of hair decay — natural and acquired. To speak simply and without puz- zling scientific jargon, it may be said that natural hair decay is difficult to overcome. The edict of Nature is largely irrevocable. But much may be done to ward off Nature's march toward no-hair. Just as an old man may prolong his life by care, proper living, the use of nutrient food, and so on, so the hair may be helped and the decay-process fought by treatment, by the use of preparations containing chemical factors which stimulate hair- growth. And it may be said that most of the hair- tonics have more or less healing and stimulating properties and their intelligent use is to be com- mended. The other kind of hair-decay or hair-sickness — ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 75 the acquired condition — is temporary. This tem- porary weakness or loss of hair is caused through some general illness, as typhoid, for example; or it may be caused by disease caught from a brush or comb. In cases of this kind, treatment is always beneficial. The sick hair requires attention just as much as any other form of specific illness. The query is, What is the form of hair sickness and how can it be best treated? At present, hair knowl- edge is somewhat limited to specialists, but infor- mation of this kind is rapidly spreading among the barbers. In time the intelligent barber will know much. At present he guesses. Neuralgia is a frequent cause of falling hair. In a case of this kind electric scalp massage is a cura- tive agency. The value of the shampoo lies chiefly in the fact that in all scalp diseases, whether marked or even scarcely discoverable, cleanliness is the first essential of a cure. The shampoo brings about this condition. Again, many disease-breeding mi- crobes cannot withstand soap and water. A good lather is death to them, so, on general principles, the shampoo ?s the simplest remedial and curative agent for hair trouble. At the rool of each hair on the body there is a cell or atom of matter called pigment, and this gives the hair its color. When, from any cause, this pigment dries up or is exhausted, grayness sets in. The physicians call this pigmentary atrophy. Atrophy is easily explained. When a thing fails to reach full development, or decays after full de- velopment, it is said to be atrophied. For instance, old age is a condition of atrophy, while youth might 78 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. be said to be a condition of hypertrophy. Or, to make it simpler, atrophy is less than enough, while hypertrophy is more than enough. The enlarged heart is hypertrophy; the shriveled limb is atrophy. Perfection is the medium line between atrophy and hypertrophy, and there is no living being who ex- actly stands on this line. (The publishers are indebted to the "Barbers' Journal" for much of these valuable suggestions.) ILLUSTRATED BOOK OP INSTRUCTION. 77 PART VI.-MASSAGE Massage is a necessary adjunct in our modern life. In the old days, before men thought so much, when they lived by muscle, not by brains, massage was unknown except to a few of the leaders, such as Caesar and others. These world-worn men, con- ducting marvelous enterprises, sleeping little and eaten up with ambition, suffered the same as the modern man does. That is, they were victims of overwork and their health fell away. They there- fore employed a crude form of massage to coun- teract the effects of the physical and mental hard- ships they underwent. But the majority of the people were living a slow mental life, and neces- sarily exercising in order to get their livelihood, either in war or in the field, or in rough workman- ship, they had no need for massage. Nowadays, however, this is all changed. A large part of the world makes its living entirely through thought, while the other millions who earn a live- lihood through muscle effort alone have necessarily more mental activity than the men of a thousand years ago. They read books, they read the papers, they pursue pleasure; so that it may be said gen- erally that the modern average physical condition has no comparison with the ancient. To offset this tendency to degeneration the hygienists have step- ped in and have loudly preached the benefits of 78 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. exercise, bathing and massage, particularly the lat- ter. Massage is a stimulator. It makes the blood more active. It brings the sluggish blood from certain inner centers of the body and fetches it to the exterior, to the muscles, to the skin. It is a regenerator. Chemical facial and scalp massage are particu- larly valuable. In the face and in the scalp are many small arteries and capillaries. These become clogged with impure blood. Owing to an enfeebled or slow heart action, the rich blood, purified with the oxygen taken into the lungs, does not fully reach these minute capillaries, and therefore they are not thoroughly cleansed at each heart beat, as they are, in fact, in the body of an athlete or a thor- oughly healthy man. And it is right here that mas- sage steps in. With the hand or by aid of machin- ery it kneads the skin of the face and scalp, it com- presses, depresses and fetches the blood into the millions of capillaries and minute veins. In this way the dead matter is removed and a healthful and tonic effect is produced. In the primitive stages of massage, mechanics were not known, but today they are. Many men have brought massage to a science and have called in mechanical aid to get the best results. There- fore, we now have in the tonsorial trades two forms of massage machines, one driven by compressed air and one driven by electricity. These machines are so perfected and are now fitted with specially designed applicators that they duplicate the work of the mere human a thousand- fold. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OP INSTRUCTION. 79 The machines now being offered the barber trade have a place in every good-class barber shop, and in high-class shops are an absolute necessity. It has been the experience of barbers that, where these machines are in use, they attract curiosity, and that their service, once taken, becomes a regular part of the shaving operation. It is also equally certain that in a short time the machines pay for the first cost, and after that they give an enormous return on the investment. If any barber is not yet posted on the question of massage, both as a science and as a feature of shop work, he should drop a line to the nearest branch of the Robinson System of Barber Colleges, and learn at first hand, the more important details of administering it, and the special benefits to be derived from it. There are three kinds of massage that are espe- cially worthy of learning thoroughly. The Chemical, invented and most successfully in- troduced by Mr. E. M. Robinson, manager and chief instructor. The Vibratory and the straight Elec- trical. The plain Head and Face Massage is most resorted to in country barber shops, where the trade is usually not so exacting in the service required. The general principle or object sought in mas- sage is to open up the pores of the skin, remove all impurities, apply to the cuticle and scalp re- juvenating and life restoring chemical aid in cases where Nature has failed to make proper provision therefor, cause a more general and thorough cir- culation of the blood to the exposed portions of the body, particularly the face, remove crow's feet and 80 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. wrinkles, give the skin a glossy and healthful ap- pearance, cause an increased growth of hair, through supplying the hair follicles with proper nutriment and specifically to improve and beautify the com- plexion. No lady or gentleman who is at all fastidious in their taste, and desirous of making the most, or as much as they should, of their appearance, can afford to neglect the study and practice of mas- sage. It is infinitely more important than Hair- dressing and Manicuring, however essential these latter may be. The Chemical Massage. This treatment is especially intended to restore falling hair, avoid the spread and development of "Alopecia Areata" (Bald Spots), and to so enliven and tone up the scalp and hair follicles as to pro- mote a healthy and luxuriant growth. Only the purest of ingredients are employed in compounding the two different formulas used in this treatment. The first, or No. 1, application is preceded by a thorough massage and steaming of the scalp. This is done with the largest of special hoods, and when the pores are opened up and have exuded all local impurities, the head is thoroughly sham- pooed and the hair cleansed of all oily or greasy substances. Then the chemicals are applied and after being well rubbed in the hood is brought into use again, to drive the chemical com- pound into the roots of the hair and the pores of ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 81 the scalp. Then apply tbe hood, which steams the scalp thoroughly and opens up the pores, it also drives the chemicals into the roots of the hair, kill- ing the hair parasites that find lodgment in tbe tollicles; it completely loosens and removes the dandruff germ, and by its great cleansing properties removes the substances upon which they in part exist. Its curative properties have been highly recom- mended by eminent physicians who have tried it in this city. This system of massage is taught only in the Robinson System of Colleges. The chemicals can only be driven into the roots of the hair follicles by the use of the steaming hood. Vibratory Massage. There are on the market a variety of machines for administering the Vibratory Massage. In the larger cities where both direct and alternating elec- trical currents and compressed air are to be had daytime as well as night, machines designed for such use are employed. They are quite expensive, though add much to the appearance of the shop; however, they are not one whit more effective, or more easily operated than is the Dry Cell Battery Machine that does not depend on power plants for motive. The latest Dry Cell Battery Machines on the market will give from 450 to 500 massages; they have a battery of twelve cells, are portable, compact and ueat. 82 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. They are guaranteed to give 2,500 vibratory move- ments per minute, and this is as great a speed as any machine can be worked on the face. In all other respects they are identical to the power ma- chine, the same make and style of kneading, cleans- ing and massaging bulb and rubber agitator is used. The machine is so arranged that three different speeds may be attained, the minimum, or that used in tempering the face, head and neck, to the move- ment. The secondary, used in the cleansing process, and the maximum, used to knead the skin, remove crow's feet, wrinkles, horizontal lines from the brow, and to make or give to the cheeks, forehead and neck that plump, rosy and beautiful appearance. The skilled masseur or operator who graduates from the Robinson System of Colleges, is enabled to apply the treatment in a scientific and successful manner. Electrical Massage. This is the application of electricity direct to the patron's face, after the current has been passed through the operator's hands, by means of an elec- trode fastened to the wrist with a strap. It differs from the Vibratory in that by this system you get an actual current of electricity to pass through- out the skin on the face and neck. It draws the circulation to the skin, stimulates the face nerve system, and is in general, one of the most effective agencies in bringing about a healthy condition and good color to the face. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 83 PART VII-SKIN DISEASES AND ANTISEPTICS Q. What precaution would you take in shaving a face on which there was any kind of skin disease? A. Provide for strict antiseptics, or an antiseptic condition, so that contagion would be avoided. Be- fore shaving use a hot water towel; bathe the face and discard the towel. After shaving would sterilize all instruments used. Would also wash the face with an antiseptic. Would also wash my own hands in antiseptic wash, a solution of Formalin, carbolic acid, or something similar. Q. What effect does close shaving have on the skin? A. After shaving close, with a microscope you can see exudation of blood, though, of course, it is not visible to the unaided eye. The effect of close shaving on the skin is to render it all the more liable to skin diseases, especially to those which are contagious. Also, if the person so shaved has within him the germs of a skin disease, close shav- ing will bring it to the front. Q. What effect does facial massage have? A. Facial massage has two distinct effects: First- ly, the kneading process causes the skin to exude and give out certain deleterious matter it has ac- quired from the air, which is more or less filled with dust, or which accumulates in the system. The kneading given in facial massage works this out. Secondly, Facial massage brings into the minute 84 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. capillaries of the skin a fresh supply of blood, forc- ing the blood into every capillary to which the mas- sage is- applied. This, of course, makes for a much healthier facial condition, so that facial massage is a cleanser as well as a stimulator. Q. What is eczema? A. Eczema is an inflammation of the skin, ac- companied by papules, pimples, etc., and is usually attended with a discharge of serum. Q. What is Acne? Describe its appearance. A. Acne is a general term used to designate a skin upon which there is marked pustular inflam- mation. This comes from a diseased condition of the sebaceous glands; it often affects the hair fol- licles. Acne is best represented by a face which is usually covered with pustules or pimples. It is generally accompanied with sluggish circulation. Q. Name three antiseptics. A. Formalin, Corrosive Sublimate and Carbolic Acid. Q. What are they used for, and what is their effect? A. They are used for washes in connection with shaving, for the purpose of preventing contagion. When used this way, they are germ-killers. They are also used for sterilizing the various tools and implements used by the barber. Q. If you should use a lance, needle, tweezers, etc., on a man's face, how would you cleanse them? A. They could be cleansed by boiling in water, into which has been introduced a little potassium carbonate, which will prevent rusting. If there is ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 85 not time for this, they may be dipped in a solution of Formalin or pure Carbolic Acid, after which they should be rinsed in distilled water. Q. If you should cut a man how would you check bleeding? Name three astringents. A. Would check bleeding by using pressure, that is, take a towel and, with the fingers, press the cut together so as to prevent the flow of blood. Or would use astringents. The names of three astrin- gents are Sulphate of Iron, Alum, and Tannic Acid. Or would use a Styptic preparation in liquid or powder form. Q. How would you cleanse a cup for shaving? A. By washing it out with boiling water, or by washing it out with an antiseptic solution, such as Formaldehyde or the like. Q. How would you cleanse a razor? A. After carefully wiping it, would place in a sterilizer or would boil in hot water, or would treat it to a four per cent, solution of Formaldehyde or other antiseptic. Q. How would you cleanse brushes, combs, etc.? A. Would place them in a sterilizer in which steam or antiseptic fumes are used v A comb can be sterilized by dipping into a four per cent. Formalde- hyde solution, that is, 2*4 tablespoonfuls of Form- aldehyde to a quart of water. Brushes may be ster- ilized by wrapping them up over night in a cloth soaked in the same solution. On the Hair and Scalp. Q. How does the hair derive its life? A. The hair derives its life from the blood and S6 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. lymphatics from which it absorbs the natural food supply. Q. Why does the hair fall out? A. Falling hair may be caused by a great many conditions which may be described as local and constitutional. The local conditions are lack of proper nourishment, disease of the hair follicle, atrophy and shrinkage of the hair bulb, and then again there are various parasitic conditions which will cause falling of the hair. Alopecia is another disease. In constitutional cases we find syphilis. Q. Why does the hair turn gray? A. The normal pigment coloring matter is ab- sorbed from the blood. The color of the hair de- pends upon four facts, namely, first, diffused pig- ment; second, granular pigment; third, air condi- tions, and, fourth, the superficial character of the hair. The cortex plays the chief part in determin- ing the color of the hair. Grayness or Canities may be either acquired or hereditary. It may be partial or complete, or it may be sudden or slow. Congenital Canities usually occurs in the form of gray tufts, and the acquired Canities or grayness may be either premature or senile. The hair in Canities is usually dry, stiffer and often coarser than normal. It is usually due to the absence of pigment and the pres- ence of air. Q. Why do you singe the hair and what is the effect? A. The hair should be singed frequently. It is the usual notion among barbers that the hair when cut bleeds. I believe that the opinion is that the singe- ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 87 ing of the hair, will prevent this bleeding. Singe- ing of the hair, in my opinion, is very beneficial. Q. Why does the hair split and break at the ends? A. This condition is usually called Fragilitis Cranium. We usually find that when the ends of the hair split, that the bulb is also atrophied and sometimes even broken and split. Q. What effect does continuous cutting have on the hair? A. It tends to make the hair more coarse and we believe also that it makes the hair stronger, although not in every case. Q. What effect does alcohol have on the hair? A. It has a very beneficial effect, when used in the form or composition of a tonic. Q. What do you understand by dandruff? A. Dandruff is of two varieties, Seborrhoea, Sicca or Aleoso, and Pityriasis Simplex; that is, greasy and dry dandruff. In the greasy type the two little se- baceous glands which surround each hair secrete an abnormal amount of sebaceous or oily matter This is deposited on the scalp at the mouths of the hair follicles in the shape of dandruff. The dry dandruff is usually caused by the opposite condi- tion of the sebaceous glands. We believe that the primary cause of dandruff is a parasite or germ found in and about the follicle and the sebaceous glands. Q. Is dandruff transmissible? A. Yes. 88 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. Q. Why? A. Because we believe that it is due primarily to a germ or parasite which is easily carried from one person to another. Q. What is the cause of an oily condition of the scalp? A. The secretion of too much oil by the oil or sebaceous glands is very apt to cause a very oily condition of the hair and scalp. Q. What causes extreme dryness of the scalp? A. Lack of proper nutrition, lack of sebaceous matter which should be secreted by the sebaceous glands. Q. What is the effect of scalp massage? A. The effect of scalp massage is very bene- ficial, because it stimulates the blood and nerve sup- ply of the scalp. This tends to supply a greater amount of nutrition to the hair and glands. Q.' What effect does brushing have on the scalp? A. Brushing the hair once a day with a brush not too stiff is very beneficial. But excessive brushing of the scalp with a very stiff brush is very apt to cause an irritated condi- tion of the scalp and if the brush happens to be un- clean it may be the means of transmitting a great many diseases. — ("Barbers' Journal.") ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. S9 SCIENCE IN THE BARBER SHOP. As an Aid to Attract, Interest and Benefit Customers. George A. Schmidt, Sr., Chicago, in "Barbers' Journal." Few, if any, sayings are of greater practical value than is the late Professor Huxley's definition of sci- ence, which he puts into these words: "Science is, I believe, nothing but trained and organized common sense, differing -from the latter only as a veteran may differ from a raw recruit. The vast results obtained by science are won by no mystical faculties, by no mental processes other than those which are practised by every one of us in the humblest and meanest affairs of life. The man of science, in fact, simply uses with scrupulous ex- actness the methods which we all habitually arid frequently, use carelessly." Carnegie, the millionaire ironmaster, also ac- knowledges that he made his millions by adopting new and scientific methods in his business; and if others of our successful business men were as frank, they would have to acknowledge the same thing. Not their own smartness alone, but their co-operation with those who "knew how," better than they did themselves, enabled them to use their executive abilities to make fame and fortunes. Science, as above explained, will enable you to climb from the over-crowded lower levels of busi- ness towards the top, where there is room and air and light to grow in. We quote the above authorities as an excuse for 90 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. our persistent efforts to make others see things as they appear to us. We express repeatedly our un- shakable conviction that practical science, the kind Professor Huxley explains, is the only safe and sure method to "get there." It is not at all necessary that every barber should study chemistry and dermatology; that would do more harm than good; in fact, much harm has been done to the barber profession because some members of the craft forgot that all kinds of knowledge must be made to suit the party whom you try to interest and benefit. Practical science, the most valuable kind, grows and develops. "Through practice to science" should be the motto of the barber. It is not at all necessary that every member of the profession should be able to give the Latin names and the history and peculiarities of skin diseases which might be contracted or observed in the barber shop. Simplicity should guide the barber in his conduct towards his customers. "Putting on airs" does not attract customers. Better let your customer imagine he is the smarter man; but, if the con- versation turns that way, or you think it wise to lead it in that direction, show your knowledge about skin cultivation and germ eradication by explain- ing that it is very much like, and as simple as the cultivation of the soil. As Agri- Horti- and Flori-culture increase the yield of the soil and make "the skin of the earth" more beautiful and profitable, so does the barber's work, and his directions improve appearances as well as health, vigor and comfort. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 91 Real knowledge is like seed; it grows and de- velops in a natural way, something like the tree. There are a number of prominent barbers whose establishments have grown and branched out so that their proprietors not only practice and direct the cultivation of the skin of the face and scalp, but they give also baths, shampooing, manicuring and massaging a proper attention. There are many reasons why barbers should as- sume the direction of progressive methods of skin culture. His profession is the oldest one in the field, and the only one which practises skin sterili- zation according to correct principles. To recognize the scientific side of the barbers' work, we must put a magnifying glass to our mind's eye; then we can observe how the soap solution, which the modern barber applies to his customers' beard is massaged into the skin, under the hair to be shaved off. And then, by the gradual addition of water, with gentle friction, kneading and rubbing (either at pleasure or according to the rules of some learned masseur) loosens, detaches, wraps up in a soap film and finally lifts up and holds firmly in a creamy, heavy lather, not only the hairs to be cut by the razor, but everything which ought to be re- moved from the human skin. While doing this job, the work may be likened to the oyster-fishers whose improved tools detach the luscious bivalves, gather them in nets and brings them up to the surface. As the spider catches the insects by surrounding 92 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. them with delicate webs, so does the barber work while making his lather on a person's face. So far, this has been done only to catch the bits of hair to be shaven off; but if you do the same thing on a diseased portion of skin and add to the lather that particular medicament which acts on the mi- crobes causing the trouble — as salt does on leeches, which loosen their grip as soon as it is applied — you will be able to gradually catch and remove all of the minute pests which are the cause of the va- rious skin, troubles. Many an ailment which baffled the skill of em- inent skin specialists has been cured without any chemically acting medicine, simply by the method above described. As it is inexpensive, it pays to try it. If you bear in mind the likeness of the human skin to the surface of the earth, you will under- stand why different "tools," different kinds of soaps may be needed. As the ax, and saw, the plow, hoe, spade, harrow, etc., are needed as the forest, the prairie, the field, garden, etc., is to be cultivated, as the animals as well as the weeds to be destroyed and removed to make room for useful plants require different appliances, so it is with the human skin. In cases where the above simple treatment is not sufficient, modifications of the described "tool" may be needed, but we will reserve the explanation of such special cases for another essay. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. PART VIII-FORMULAS 93 The following Formulas are from the recipes of Prof. McConnaughay, and will be found to be the best, cheapest and most easily prepared. They em- brace about all that are necessary for the successful practitioner. BROWN HAIR DYE. Take four pounds of green walnut hulls. Put them in one and one-half gallons soft water and boil down to three pints. Strain off through cloth until clear of sediment. To one quart of this add one quart alcohol, and three ounces glycerine. Use as other restorers, once a day until the de- sired shade is obtained. The hulls should be gath- ered in August. QUININE HAIR TONIC AND SEA FOAM. The strong point in favor of this preparation as a sea foam is that it acts at the same time as a tonic for the hair. Formula: Alcohol 1 pint. Glycerine //2. ounce. Tincture of Cantharides y 2 ounce. Aqua Ammonia y 2 ounce. Sulphate of Quinine 30 grains. Oil of Cloves one drachm. Rock (or table) salt % ounce. Distilled or rain water one pint Directions— When using as a sea foam, wet the 94 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. hair and rub briskly with the finger ends until the foam has disappeared. Then take a towel and rub partly dry. When using as a dandruff cure, sea foam twice a week, dampen the hair twice a day for two weeks, after which use once a week as a sea foam. This will keep the scalp in fine condition. CREAM FOR CHAPPED HANDS AND FACE. Formula: Quince seed % ounce. Distilled extract Witch Hazel 1 pint Glycerine % pint. Alcohol !/4 pint. Powdered Boracic Acid 1G0 grains Carbolic Acid 32 drops. Perfume to suit. Directions for Making. First put Quince seed in Witch Hazel and let stand twenty-four hours. Then strain through cheese cloth and add the other ingredients. PYTHIAN CREAM FOR THE FACE AND HANDS. Formula. Gum Tragacinth (in flake), V 2 ounce. Glycerine, four ounces. Distilled or rain water, y 2 gallon. Directions for Making. Put Gum Tragacinth in water and let stand until thoroughly dissolved, and strain through a cheese cloth. Then add the glycerine and a sufficient amount of Pythian boquet to perfume. Color pink ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 95 with powdered carmine. It should be about the consistency of cream. If too thick add more water. There should be a half gallon of water to the four ounces of glycerine when finished. BAY CREAM. This differs from Pythian Cream only in the per- fume. Some like the Bay Rum better. Directions. Use the formula of the preceding, and then add perfume with genuine Oil of Bay. COLD CREAM. The only difference between this and the two pre- ceding creams is that instead of perfume a com- pound of Alcohol and Menthol is used. Directions. Use the same body as for Pythian Cream, and then add Alcohol and Menthol as follows: Put six drachms of Menthol crystals into an ounce of Alcohol. When the Menthol is thoroughly dissolved add this combination to one half gallon of the cream. The presence of the Menthol gives this preparation a very cooling effect, hence its name. BAY RUM. No. 1. Bay Oil, y 2 ounce. Oil of Pimento, *4 ounce. Alcohol, 3 pints. Water, 3 pints. 96 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. No. 2. Magnesium, 14 pound. Oil of Bay, y± pound. Mash them well together and put them in a filter and pour in two quarts of water. Let it filter slowly and then add two quarts Alcohol. IMITATION OF BAY RUM. No. 3. Oil of Bay, 3 drachms. Oil of Pimento, y 2 drachm. Water, iy 2 quarts. Acetic Ether, iy 2 ounces. Alcohol, 2 quarts. Mix and let stand three days, then let filter. CAMPHOR ICE. Oil of Sweet Almonds, 2y 2 ounces. White Wax, 2y 2 ounces. Spermaceti, Zy 2 ounces. Gum Camphor, % ounce. Mix together, melt and pour into small salve box. MENTHOL SALVE. Mutton Tallow, 1 ounce. Lard, 1 ounce. Menthol (in crystals), 3 drachms. Melt together and pour into small boxes. Both the Camphor Ice and the Menthol Salve are good for tender faces. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 97 SILVER GLOSS SHAMPOO. White Castile Soap (the very best), 1 pound. Refined Carbonate of Potash, % pound. Distilled or rain water, 1 gallon. Table Salt, y 2 ounce. Directions. Shave the soap fine, put into the water, which should be contained in a porcelain vessel. Let it boil until the soap is thoroughly dissolved and strain off into another vessel, then add the pure salts of Tartar while still hot. Add the salt and enough more boil- ing water to replace the amount that has boiled away, and continue to stir until it becomes only luke- warm; then add a few drops of the Oil of Cloves (or some other perfume) if desirable. Finally pour off in small jelly jars and set away for use. One gallon made in this way will make five gallons of ordinary shampoo, by simply adding four more gallons of water. This quantity should not cost over fifty cents. One teaspoonful is enough to clean any ordinary head of hair. In cleaning ladies' hair it is well to add a little Ethylic Ether, commonly called sulphuric ether — never use hard water. EGG SHAMPOO. This preparation should be used immediately af- ter mixing. Take one fresh egg, one teaspoonful of silver gloss shampoo, and one quarter teaspoonful of powdered borax. Mix together with an egg beat- er, and then use as other shampoos. 98 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. A CHEAP SEA FOAM. Take two ounces of the silver gloss shampoo, two ounces of Alcohol, one ounce of Glycerine and one pint of water; shake well together and perfume to suit your fancy. The shampoo or sea foam can be colored a nice yellow by making a tea of saffron and water, adding enough after straining it to get the desired results or color. Powdered carmine can also be used to color a red or pink color. BRILLIANTINE. Take one ounce good Glycerine, one quarter ounce of Rose Geranium, and one ounce water; mix thor- oughly. This preparation is a good one, and can be made very cheaply by using a less amount of the perfume. It never separates and is good as long as there is a drop of it left. BLACK HEADS. What are known as Black Heads are generally found in the skin of people who are addicted to the use of much pork. Such people are also, as a rule, rather careless about bathing their faces. A hint to the wise will be sufficient. Let them not be afraid that a rough towel will scratch their face. Formula. Alcohol, 4 ounces. Boracic Acid, 2 drachms. Distilled or rain water, iy 2 ounces. Apply this three times a day after first having thoroughly washed the face and rubbing dry with a coarse towel. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 99 HAIR BLEACHING. First clean the hair with the Silver Gloss Shampoo and when dry apply peroxide of hydrogen until damp. When dry, again repeat the application, and con- tinue to repeat it until nearly as light as desired. The hair will continue to bleach a little lighter for about three days, and hence it is necessary to dis- continue the application when the hair is a shade darker than desired. WHITENING FOR THE FACE. Put one ounce of the Oxide of Zinc into a plate and pour over it three ounces of soft water. Mash Zinc with a spoon until it is all dissolved. Pour the solution into a pint bottle and fill up with Witch Hazel. When the weather is cold, pure soft water may be used instead of Witch Hazel; but the preparation would sour in warm weather. Apply with a soft cloth. BARBER'S ITCH. Fear of this disease causes many men to shave themselves, and this class would otherwise be among the very best customers. When these men observe how careless the aver- age barber is with his towels, mugs, tools, etc., they become disgusted a- 1 purchase a shaving outfit of their own and quit the barber's chair, except when a hair cut is wanted. Scabies or itch, in its various forms, is a disease caused by the irritation produced from the presence in the skin of what is called the itch mite or ova of the same. The cure involves the destruction of these parasites. 100 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. Get a doctor if possible to diagnose and prescribe for the case. If this is not convenient try the fol- lowing: An ointment made from the flour of sulphur and lard, or Sulphur and Vaseline, is about the best remedy known. Rub in well at night and wash off in the morning. Or take Citron Ointment, 1 ounce and mutton Tal- low 1 ounce; melt together and stir till cool. This is a good salve for all skin diseases. POMADES. In selecting material for Pomade have a butcher get you some fine leaf lard and some of the finest suet, which should be taken from young animals. Render out separately in a porcelain vessel and strain off. Directions. Take lard, 1 pound. Tallow, 1 pound. Mix them, heat gently, and cook for one hour over a slow fire; remove and let stand a few minutes to settle; now pour off carefully. When almost cold add some suitable perfume, say Oil of Bergamont 4 drachms, Oil of Lemon 3 drachms, Oil of Cassia 2 drachms, Oil of Nutmeg 75 drops. Mix thoroughly with the Pomade and pour into small jars. ILLUSTRATED BOOK OP INSTRUCTION. 101 ENGRAVING FLUID. This is a fluid combination used for etching or marking Razors, Shears or other metallic tools. Formula. Bluestone, one ounce. Table salt, one ounce. Water, six ounces. Cover metal with soap, write mark or character with needle or pencil, then fill traced lines with fluid and let stand five minutes. Wash clean and dry thoroughly. ELECTROLYSIS. This, one of the latest and most important ad- juncts of the Barbering and Hairdressing trade, is taught thoroughly in our Colleges. It is the art of removing by the aid of or with the Electrical Needle, warts, moles, superfluous hair and other facial blem- ishes. First — The operation of Electrolysis, properly per- formed, never fails. Second — The length of time depends on the num- ber and strength of hairs, if they have been tampered with or not. Third — 25 to 35 hairs can be removed at a sitting of half hour (according to case). Several sittings can be given in succession the same day. Fourth — The operation is comparatively painless, causing merely the slightest stinging sensation. Fifth — It leaves no scar or trace. 102 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. TRADE PRICES. 1st Class. 2nd Class Hair Cut 35 .25 Shaving 15 .10 Beard Trimming 50 .25 Shampooing 50 .35 Mustache Dyeing 1.00 .10 Sea Foam 25 .10 Singeing the Hair 25 .25 Razor Honing 50 .25 Neck Shaving 10 .05 Application of Hair Tonic 10 .10 In dyeing the hair, the charge is based on length and thickness of hair and beard, and varies from $2.00 to $10.00 for a complete job. HAIR DRESSING. Fancy. Ordinary. Hair Dressing, Plain 50 .25 Hair Dressing, Fancy 1.00 .75 Curling and Trimming Top Bangs... .50 .25 Shampooing Medium Length Hair... .50 .25 Shampooing Heavy Hair 1.00 .75 Shampooing Short Hair 50 .25 Trimming and Curling Short Hair all over 1.00 .50 Singeing Long Hair all over 1.00 .50 Singeing Short Hair 50 .25 Bleaching Medium Length, each ap- plication 1.00 .50 Bleaching Long Hair, each applica- tion 1.50 1.00 Dyeing Short Hair, all over 5.00 2.00 Dyeing Medium Hair, all over 10.00 5.00 Dyeing Long, Heavy, Grey Hair, all over 25.00 15,00 ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 103 MASSAGE SERVICE. 1st Class. 2nd Class. Shops. Shops. Vibratory Massage 50 .35 Electrical Massage 50 .S5 Plain Massage 35 .25 Chemical Head Massage or Hair Treatment 5.00 2.00 ELECTROLYSIS. Per sitting $2.50 Each sitting requires about thirty minutes, less service proportionately cheaper. 104 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. FINIS. In the rapid compilation of this Book of Instruc- tion, it is only reasonable to suppose that some more or less important oversight of essential branches has been committed; and in some few cases other departments have not been dealt with in such elaborate detail as might be wished. How- ever, the prospective student or journeyman will find much that will be of value to them in perfecting their ability. It is the only work of this character issued by any barber college, wherein the illustrations have been taken from life. The Benson-Morris Company, Engravers and Lith- ographers, of Seattle, took the sketches upon which these illustrations are based, from poses given by our Manager and Chief Instructor, Mr. E. M. Rob- inson, in person. They were taken in the main work room and will give those interested a clear idea of the system employed in training and devel- oping our students into scientific as well as suc- cessful practical Tonsorial Artists. The Hair Dressing plates are likewise from life, the work being performed by our Lady Instructor of that and the Manicuring Department. Every co-relative branch of the barber trade, in- cluding Hair Cutting, Shaving, Singeing, Shampoo- ing, Electrical, Vibratory, Chemical and Plain Head and Face Massage; Hairdressing, Electrolysis and Manicuring, is thoroughly and completely taught by the very best of Instructors at the different branches oi the Robinson System of Barber Colleges. The End. INDEX Page Character of Hone 9 Correct Honing- Position (illustration) 7 Electrolysis 101-103 Finis 104 Formulas 93 Brown Hair Dye 93 Quinine Hair Tonic and Sea Foam 93 Cream for Chapped Hands and Face 94 Pythian Cream for the Face and Hands . 94 Bay Cream 95 Cold Cream 95 Bay Rum (No. 1 ) 95 Bay Rum (No. 2) 96 Imitation of Bay Rum 96 Camphor Ice 96 Menthol Salve 96 Silver Gloss Shampoo 9 7 Egg Shampoo 9 7 Cheap Sea Foam 98 Brilliantine 9S Black Heads, Formula 98 Hair Bleaching 99 Whitening for the Face 99 Barber's Itch 99 Pomades 100 Engraving Fluid 101 Page Hair Cutting 31 Proper Method of Holding Shears and Comb (il- lustration) 34 Clipper Cut (illustration) 36 Half Crown Hair Cut (illustration) 37 Quarter Shingle Cut (illustration) 38 Cut "a la Mode" (illustration) 41 Professional Cut (illustration) 42 Pompadour Cut (illustration) 43 English Feather Edge (illustration) 44 "Duchess" Cut (illustration) 45 Business Cut (illustration) 46 Use of Clippers (illustration) 48 Lining Up 47 Singeing (illustration) 49 Beard Trimming 51 English Military Trim (illustration) 53 Russian Point Trim (illustration) 54 "Van Dyke Trim (illustration) 55 Lord Dundreary Trim (illustration) 56 The Divided or "Dude Lewis" Trim (illustra-) tion) 58 The Full Beard Trim (illustration) 59 Hair Dressing 62 Plate No. 1, Hair Dressing 64 Plate No. II, Hair Dressing 65 Plate No. Ill, Hair Dressing 65 Plate No. IV, Hair Dressing 66 Plate No. V, Hair Dressing "A Terminated Coiffure" 67 New Patent or Pointed Pompadour (illustration) . . 68 "Mary Anderson" or Parted Headdress, Front View (illustration) 69 "Mary Anderson" Headdress, Side View (illustration) 70 "Mary Anderson" Headdress, Slightly Modified, Rear View (illustration) 71 Hair Dressing Prices 102 Hair Treatment and Knowledge 74 Honing Room 7 Homing, Second Position (illustration) 8 How to Hold Water Bottle (illustration) 28 Massage Page 77 The Chemical Massage 80 Vibratory Massage 81 Electrical Massage 82 Massage Prices 102 Manicuring 73 Our General Manager (illustration) 6 Our Seattle Home (illustration) 4 Our Spokane Home (illustration) 5 Preface 3 Preparatory Observation 12 Proper Method of Stropping (illustration) 11 Private Demonstration 12 Science in the Barber Shop 89 Shaving i4 Shaving Movements 15 First Position (illustration) 17 Second Position (illustration) 18 Third Position (illustration) 20 First Position, Left Side (illustration) 23 Second Position, Left Side (illustration) 24 Drawing Skin Tight (illustration) 25 Drawing Skin Tight Across Chin (illustration).. 26 Stropping 10 Shampooing (illustration) 72 Skin Diseases aosd Antiseptics 83 The Art of Beard Trimming 60 The Hair and Scalp 85 The Mustache 61 Trade Prices 102 Wrist and Free Arm Movement 13 237 90 W*s <> V*.^T'\** V*^!* v v *♦ .785^. \/ /flfc\ V^.' SV -•V .- V^>* ...\' # ' -^ o* ...... % /V"- HECKMAN BINDERY INC. # MAY 90 N. MANCHESTER, INDIANA 46962