TS ,U5 Facts for Salesmen Rajmsters I:;/l ' \'\. United States Ryliber Company Copyrigto^i^. COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. Facts for Salesmen RAYNSTERS Information for Salesmen OF THE Clothing Division OF THE United States Rubber Company, Compiled BY THE Sales Department United States Rubber Company 1921 -^ AV Copyright, 19'21 By The United States Rubber Company m 19 1921 g)C!.A630l08 •Vx. € a ^ CONTENTS Foreword Page Chapter I — Evolution of '* Raynster " 1 Chapter II — Rubber 7 Chapter III — Compounds 11 Chapter IV — Fabrics 17 Chapter V — Designing of Clothing 29 Chapter VI — Manufacture and Construction of Rubber Surface Clothing 31 Chapter VII — Manufacture of Slipons, Single and Double Texture Clothing 50 FOREWORD This booklet tells how the United States Rubber Company's line of waterproof clothing is manufactured. Although the booklet is written for salesmen, to help them sell goods, no attempt has been made to develop selling arguments, or to provide ready-made phrases for selling talks. As its title indicates, it is a book of facts, and facts alone. But the plain facts about the fundamental factor in any sale — the article itself — should be of greatest value to the salesman. Their study should give him a clearer picture of the production organization of the Company, a more accurate knowledge of the building- up of the goods, a sounder conception of their value. The questions at the end of each chapter should not be overlooked. Practise in answering them should focus the information facts they bring out into more convincing expression. Because of the nature of the book, it is imperative that each salesman be responsible that the copy loaned him remain always in his possession. It must be re- turned on call. To n.ake revision and editing complete, it is hoped that every salesman will supply whatever suggestions and information he can. Facts for Salesmen Raynsters CHAPTER I EVOLUTION OF ' RAYNSTER" IN 18^3 a Scotchman living in Glasgow, Scotland, dis- covered a method of rubberizing cloth by dissolving rub- ber in naphtha, spreading the mixture upon cloth, then evaporating the naphtha. By this method a rubber film was left upon the cloth, rendering it impervious to water. The Scotchman's name was Mackintosh, and the coats made by this method were called Mackintosh coats — the first to be made and sold commercially. These garments were imprac- tical, for the rubber became soft and sticky in warm weather, and rigid and hard in cold. How to produce a rubber compound that was not suscep- tible to seasonal and temperature changes was the problem of the day. That problem was solved in 1839 by Charles Goodyear, when he discovered that a proper degree of heat effected a chemical combination between rubber and sulphur producing a compound stronger than crude rubber, that re- tained its elasticity and was not effected by varying degrees of heat and cold. Goodyear permitted three factories to use his patents — all three of which are now^ members of the United States Rubber Company System. During the pioneer days of the rubber clothing industry, the combination between the rubber and sulphur was effected by exposing the coated fabrics to the heat of the sun's rays R 1 Facts for Salesmen for a given time— the fabrics always being placed at an angle of fortv-five degrees, facing the sonth in order that the sun's heat might be distributed evenly over the surface. In this wav Gossamers, the first light-weight dress garments made of rubber-coated fabric in this country, were vulcanized. But this method had its limitations; since garments could not be cured during cloudy or inclement weather, production was severely retarded ; also, the amount of land required, and the time and labor necessary to lay out the cloth presented serious handicaps. ^ ,. *> ^^'^^ •• -^ 1^ Old Solarizing Method of X'^iilcaiiizius The difficulty was overcome by the development of a method of vulcanizing by which the garments were placed in an air-tight chamber and subjected to heat for a definite time. I'his method marked a great step forward, for the temper- ature could be accurately controlled, and scientific study and improvement was thus made possible. The first factory to discard the old solarizing method of vulcanizing garments today belongs to the Ignited States Rubber Company. R 2 EVOLITION OF "RaYNSTER About 1883 Gossamer coats began to lose their popularity and were superseded by the type now known as Single Tex- ture Slipons. The Gossamer type carried its light rubber coating on the exterior surface, having a plain cotton lin- ing, usually sheeting. The Single Texture Sliponwith the rub- ber coating inside could be made of a wide variety of the finest fabrics. This, together with modern designing methods, produced garments which were altogether more stylish. Double Texture coats followed close upon the heels of the Single Texture, and these, having the waterproof gum coat- ing between an outer and inner surface of fabric, presented a basis for still further style varieties and improvements, and were more strongly constructed to give long, sturdy service. What "RAYNSTER" Means. It is not difficult to adulter- ate the material in a rubber coat — rubber surface or slipons — and deceive the consumer and even the dealer. Externally two garments may appear the same, and yet be altogether at variance in their wearing qualities. One coat proves to be non-waterproof, it leaks and goes to pieces at the seams, the rubber cracks and decays: the other coat remains perfectly waterproof throughout, preserves its original style and finish and gives satisfactory service during its life. With the devel- opment and increasing popularity of waterproof clothing, nu- merous manufacturers and makers of raincoats entered the field. The manufacturer is responsible for every operation in the making of the garment from the raw materials to the fin- ished product, while the maker produces the garments from purchased rubberized fabrics. Multitudes of adulterated coats — raincoats in nothing but name and external appearance — were put upon the market. The public was led to infer be- cause of the names under which many of such coats were marketed, that they were manufactured by firms of estab- lished reliability. To combat these conditions, the United States Rubber Compan}^ decided to put their waterproof clothing products R 3 Facts for Salesmen on an unimpeachable quality basis and to produce a complete line of clothing for men and women, boys and girls, of all classes and for all purposes — a line possessing honest, in- built value. In its manufacturing department it had three of the oldest rubber clothing factories in America, each of which had attained a reputation through some particular point of superiority in its products. These three factories were the old Boston Rubber Com- pany, known for its high quality throughout; the American Rubber Company, which stood for the best in style and fin- ish; and the Stoughton Rubber Company which gained its reputation through the exceptional quality of the rubber compounds used in its proofings, and its skill in applying proofings to the fabrics. Each company brought with it the ideas and the results of the endeavors of the men who had established its success. The United States Rubber Company combined these ideas and results and adopted the best. Then, to protect its cloth- ing products against imitations the name "Raynster" was coined and registered in the U. S. Patent Office. "Ravnster" means that in style, grade of fabrics, workmanship, proofing compound and cement, the article upon which it is placed in- corporates the greatest dollar value which the leaders in this industry have achieved. The United States Rubber Company. Behind the " Rayn- ster" label stands the United States Rubber Company. It is the largest manufacturer of rubber clothing in the world. It is the largest company in the entire rubber industry in the world. Its distributing system covers every State in the Union, and extends through Canada; while through its Ex- port Department the Company is represented in all the com- mercial centers of the world. Manufacturing Advantages of the Company. The follow- ing is a bare outline of the advantages possessed by the Com- pany from a manufacturing viewpoint, which enables it to R 4 Evolution of "RAYNSTf:R place at the disposal of its salesmen goods which contain the greatest inbuilt value that the selling prices of the goods allow. The Company owns rubber plantations on the Island of Sumatra covering an area of approximately 140,000 acres. A constantly increasing supply of rubber of uniformly high 4-:'-^' , t-f^M A Section of the Plantation standard is assured. From the planting of the trees to the fin- ished manufactured product, the rubber is under the care of the Company's own employees. In addition to the laboratories at the factories the Com- pany maintains in New York a general experimental rubber laboratory in which scientists of repute are engaged in study- R 5 Facts for Salesmen ing the chemistry of this important substance, endeavoring to discover new uses for it and to develop better compounds for various purposes. At regular conferences, the chemists of all the factories meet in conference to exchange ideas and combine their sep- arately developed experiments into improved standards. A Planning Department works constantly to perfect the manu- facturing processes, a Mechanical Department designs nec- essary^ machinery, while the morale and efficiency of the or- ganization is maintained at high pitch through the Industrial Relations Department, which promotes in every way possible good-feeling and co-operation in the mills. In short, every factor known to modern business is uti- lized and developed that the great production machine shall operate as smoothly and accurately as the human element will allow. It is largely because of this efficient factory and inter- factory organization that the products of the United States Rubber Company, taken by and large, are unrivalled in giv- ing to the consumer the greatest value at lowest cost. The Company has earned its reputation by giving good service and full measure of value through many years. It is the aim of every loyal employee to guard that reputation. REVIEW 1. What three manufacturers of waterproof clothing were brought into the United States Rubber Company System.^ What were the strong features of each company's pro- duct.^ What were the advantages of this consolidation.^ 2. What guarantee of quality is the word "Raynster" to your customer.'' 3. How is the United States Rubber Company organized to insure a uniform, high-quality product.^ 4. What is the difference between a "Manufacturer" and a "Maker." R 6 CHAPTER II RUBBER Rubber is obtained from a gum juice called "latex" which slowly exudes from certain tropical trees when the bark is cut. Latex is not the sap of the tree. It comes from cells in the bark itself, and no one has yet determined definitely what its function in the life of the tree may be. Rubber is usually designated as "wdld" or "cultivated." Wild rubber comes chiefly from Brazil, South America, the most important va- »:*&> ?>■ ' »i' ^'^ Eii.ii^ ~. : i^ /> w ^ lapping on the plantation. One-quarter of the Tree at a Time is Tapped R 7 Facts for Salesmen riety being the Para, which is named after the main port from which the rubber is shipped. Less than fifty years ago (about 1880) seeds of the trees from which Para rubber is obtained were transplanted to the island of Ceylon. This was the be- ginning of the cultivated or plantation product, which today comprises over 90% of the total amount of rubber consumed in the civilized world. The United States Rubber Company's Rubber Planta- tion. The directors of the Company foresaw the tremendous importance which rubber would assume in the industrial field and invested many millions of dollars in estates in the far east for the cultivation of plantation rubber. The estates were purchased on the Island of Sumatra. Today the plantations of the United States Rubber Company comprise an area of approximately 140,000 acres. It is the largest group of rubber estates in the world owned by one company. At the central plantation laboratory the best modern methods of coagulating the rubber, washing, drjang and pre- paring it for use in the factories are practised. Because of the systematic and scientific manner in which it is collected, and treated, the rubber arrives in this country comparatively free from dirt and moisture and is ready for use. Its quality is uniform, its supply constant. ^^'ild rubber, on the other hand, often contains a large per- centage of moisture and foreign impurities, and this rubber must be unpacked when it arrives in port and submitted to a rigorous examination; and before use at the mill it must be specially cleansed and washed. Wild Para, however, makes an excellent cement and, in addition to the product of its own plantation, the Company uses a large quantity of Para rubber for cement-making pur- poses. Testing Rubber at Factory. When the rubber reaches the factory, it is carefully scrutinized, tested and classified ac- cording to quality. Each mill is equipped with a complete R 8 Rubber chemical laboratory and a full set of miniature experimental machinery for the making of rubber goods. Each mill main- tains its own staff of chemists who are continually endeavor- ing to improve the products, or to produce the same standard quality goods at cheaper cost. The three most important tests to determine the quahty of crude rubber are the Acetone Extraction, the Ash and the Moisture tests. These are control tests, conducted to ascer- tain that the rubber received is up to our standard. The Ace- tone Extraction test shows the amount of resinous matter present in the rubber. This resinous matter is the sap of the Plantation Rubber as it arrives. Rubber, after it is washed at factory and after cutting rubber tree, as distinguished from the latex. Too deep cut- ting is usually the cause of getting resin in the latex, which is not desirable. In the test, a weighed sample of the specimen of the rubber to be examined is immersed in acetone— a liquid which dissolves the resinous matter. The weight of the rub- ber is again taken, and the difference in weight serves in cal- culating the percentage of resin present. The Ash test shows how much mineral impurity there is in any lot of rubber. A definite sample portion of the rubber is placed under a temperature of 600 degrees Centigrade. The rubber, being an organic substance, burns away, and nothing but ash or mineral matter remains. The weight of R 9 Facts for Salesmen the ash is carefully noted and its percentage of the entire amount of rubber determined. The moisture test is made by cutting a rubber sample of given weight into small pieces and placing these in an electric oven at about 104° Centigrade (100° is boiling point for water in the Centigrade scale). The moisture is dried out, and the loss of w^eight in the sample represents the amount of moist- ure there was present. This test insures that no rubber is used in the manufacturing process which is not sufficiently dry, and is necessary because moisture would cause bubbles and flaws in the compound under the heat of vulcanization. REVIEW 1. What advantage does plantation rubber possess over wild rubber.^ How does this cut down operating costs in the mills. ^ 2. Why does the Company buy wild Para rubber.^ 3. What are the three most important tests made on the raw rubber.^ What do they guard against? R 10 CHAPTER III COMPOUNDS The combination of rubber with other substances is called a compound; and the process of combining the substances is known as compounding. The qualities of a compound, such as its strength, elasticity, resiliency, its ability to withstand the deteriorating effects of heat or light for any time-period, etc., depend fundamentally upon the proportions of rubber j and other substances used. j Elements in Rubber Compounds. The belief is frequent- ly encountered that various substances are added to rubber I to cut down the cost of production and increase the manufac- ' turer's profits at the consumer's expense. This is far from the truth. It should be very carefully noted by salesmen that the United States Rubber Company uses different grades of compounds on different grades of clothing. The following is an outline of the ingredients employed in making com- i pounds for waterproofing clothing, with the main purposes of each. (1) Rubber. (2) Sulphur, the most important chemi- ' cal ingredient which unites with the rubber to form a sub- j stance which has different properties from either rubber or sulphur. (3) Accelerators, such as litharge, which cut down the time necessary to effect the chemical change in the rubber and sulphur. (4) Softeners, or fluxes, such as pine tar or palm oil, used to promote mixing of the ingredients and the calendering out of the compound into a soft, plastic sheet of uniform smoothness. (5) Pigments, which impart the de- sired colors to the rubber, — such as carbon black (black), zinc oxide (white), lithopone (white), vermilions, red oxide (red), ultra marine blue (blue), chrome yellow (yellow). (6) Re- claimed stock (sometimes called shoddy) a stock obtained R 11 Facts for Salesmen from de vulcanized rubber goods, from which al! fabric mate- rial is separated. (7) Fillers, substances which give body and firmness to the rubber. 1. Rubber. It is a common belief that the real wearing value of a rubber coat, or any rubber goods, is in proportion to the weight of the compound; that heaviness is an unerring evidence of substantial value. As a matter of fact, the light- er the compound, generally speaking, the greater its strength, elasticity, resiliency and durability; and the explanation of this is, briefly, as follows: Rubber gum is a very light substance, having a specific gravity of .93.* It is the one lighter-than-water substance used in large quantity in compounds. The more rubber used in a compound up to a certain point, the greater the com- pound's strength, elasticity, resiliency and the better wull it resist cracking. As we have seen, the greater the propor- tion of rubber in any compound, the lighter will be its weight; and, in general, the greater the wearing utility of the garment made from it. 2. Sulphur. As has already been noted, other substances must be compounded with rubber to render it useful for prac- tical, commercial work. Of these, the most important is sul- phur, a mineral powder, which, used in the right proportions combines with rubber when the two are subjected to proper heat, and changes its properties so that it becomes stronger and more elastic, and does not become sticky and soft in warm weather, or hard and stiff in cold weather. A rubber surface garment is sometimes seen to be lightly covered with a fine, grayish powder. This results when the quantity of sulphur used in the compound is more than sufficient to com- bine chemically with the rubber. The free powder slowly comes t o the surface and crystallizes there in a fine deposit. ♦Specific gravity is the ratio between the weight of any volume of a substance and the weigrhtot an equal volume of water. A cubic foot of water weighs 62.5 pounds The weight of a cubic foot of rubber is 58.7 pounds. The weight of the cubic foot of rubber divided%v the weight of a cubic foot of water is the specific gravity of rubber. 58 7 divided by 6'* 5 is .9S, which means that the rubber is only .93 as heavy per cubic foot as water, which means that pure rubber will float. R 12 Compounds This phenomenon is generally termed" blooming" and is un- desirable only on the ground of appearance. 3. Accelerators. Properly to effect the rubber-sulphur combination in the method of vulcanization employed in man- ufacturing clothing, it is necessary to use an accelerator, such as litharge (lead oxide). If an accelerator were not used it would be necessary to employ such a large proportion of sul- phur that blooming would be inevitable. Litharge is a heavy material, about ten times as heavy as rubber, and therefore adds considerable weight. 4. Reclaimed Rubbers and Fillers. The use of re- claimed stock and fillers in rubber compounds has caused much discussion. The facts are simply that these substan- ces do bring down cost. Used judiciously they impart "body" to a compound, but, if used in excess they do reduce the service giving qualities of the garment. Many rubber goods bearing variations of the names of standard manufacturers are sold by enterprising agents at prices made possible largely because of the use of cheap, inferior compounds in rubberizing the goods. Compounds in U. S. "Raynster" Clothing. One of the biggest reasons why a consumer should purchase "Rayn- ster" clothing is that he is assured high quality and full value in the compound — the inbuilt factor that means service. The United States Rubber Company places every penny's worth of value in each compound used in their lines of clothing. How the United States Rubber Company Tests Com- pounds and Compounding Ingredients. It would require a long and technical treatment to describe fully all the tests conducted to ascertain that the compounding ingredients used in our waterproof clothing articles are up to the Com- pany 's standards. There are certain fundamental facts about rubber goods, however, which are both helpful and interest- ing to a salesman. Cracking. Cutting, checking, cracking or breaking of R 13 Facts for Salesmen any substance occurs generally at that place where there are large, rough -edged, or unevenly-sized particles of matter. In order that a rubber compound may have greatest tensile strength and possess highest resistance to checking, break- ing, etc., it is necessary that all the particles of matter, in all the ingredients, be small and of uniform size, and that the compound be so mixed as not to have any lumps within it. The utmost pains are taken in the factory laboratories that no ingredients are used which do net possess standard quali- fications. Chemical Tests. The tests which are niade on the ingre- dients used in the Company's compounds are numerous, and vary, of course, with the substances. Two typical tests which are made are the elutriation test and the sieve test. In the first of these, a sample of the powder to be tested is placed in water, in a glass vessel so equipped that the water and the finer powder particles run out at a definite rate, leaving the larger and rough edged particles behind; these latter are then examined under a microscope and the texture and shape determined. The sieve test is sup])lementary- In this, a sample of the powder to be tested is placed on a 200 mesh sieve. The percentage of particles which do not pass through the sieve is determined. I'he Company has rejected entire con- signments of powders which were shown by these tests to contain less than one-half of one per cent of unfit particles. Compound Tests. To determine the relative values of the different compounds in resisting checking, breaking, etc., samples trips are arranged in a series, like so many door hinges, between two solid blocks of wood which open and close in rapid succession; with each movement the rubber strips are flexed or folded upon themselves. At regular inter- vals the conditions of the samples being tested are examined and the time required to produce cracks in each sample is noted. R 14 Compounds Another cracking test consists in exposing sample strips of rubber compounds to rain, wind, and sun, noting each day the condition of each strip and the reUitive difference of time necessary to produce cracking. Strength, Stretch, and Permanent Elongation Tests. The strength test is made by placing a sample strip of compound in a machine which, when set in operation, pulls the rubber apart until it breaks, a recorder registering the number of pounds of force necessary to produce the break. At the same time the elasticity test is made, by measuring how far the rubber stretches before bi-eaking. The permanent elongation test consists in stretching the rubber sample on a frame for a given period of time and releasing it. The increase in length indicates the permanent elongation. These three tests are made on a series of compounds, and the measurements recorded. Ihe compounds are then set for a stated time in an electric oven and the heat within is raised to a temperature of ^35 degrees Fahrenheit. They are then removed and the three tests made over again. The results show the relative values of the compounds in resisting heat. The tests just described are not the only ones used by tlie Company to insure that their quality standard will be maintained. Coloring materials are tested to insure min- imum variation. All chemicals undergo special tests in ac- cordance with their nature and uses. Moreover, continual tests are made of samples of the compounds as they go through the difl'erent processes of manufacture and a batch not up to our standard is immediately recalled. In addition to this, the experimental chemists, employed by the Company, are in continual ciuest for new compounds, for variations in the proportions of chemicals, or for different ingredients whose use will improve, if even slightly, the rugged service our products can give. 7'he members of the Laboratory Control at the separate factories meet regularly for the exchange of ideas and the standardization of methods. R 15 Facts for Salesmen Keen minds are behind the "Eaynster" line, and no salesman need hesitate to state that the "Raynster" possesses the greatest inbuilt value possible per dollar of price. REVIEW 1. Two popular misconceptions of the use oi* chemicals in rubber goods are; (a) That chemicals add nothing to the qualities of the article and are used simply to cheapen the product, and (b) That the m.ore a rubber compound weighs, the greater its wearing qualities. What are the facts .^ 2. What chemical tests are used to insure that the chem- icals in the compound are uniform.^ 3. How do the tests of tlie various compounds insure that the United States Rubber Company's product is best fitted to stand up under all-weather use.^ 4. TTow are we assured that the products are kept up to our laboratory standards as they go through the factory processes? R IC CHAPTER IV FABRICS Fabrics of practicalh^ every kind and variety, suitable for clothing, are used by the Company. Rubber surface goods are usually made with cotton fabrics, plain or twill weave; while in the single and double texture line a wide variety of cloths is used, from those which are all wool, all silk, or all cotton, to those containing wool and cotton, or cotton and silk. Cotton and wool possess certain distinctive qualities by which each is recognizable. A knowledge of the general qual- ities of each of these materials will enable a salesman to de- termine the material of which a cloth on any of the Com- pany's garments is made, or, if the cloth be made of more Dry Goods Department R 17 Facts for Salesmen than one, what each is and the general proportions of each. Structure of Fabrics. Practically every fabric used in the Company's clothing is a woven fabric; i.e., a fabric consist- ing of two interlaced sets of threads running at right angles to each other. These threads are called warp and filling. Warp threads run in the lengthwise direction of a cloth ; fill- ing threads run crosswise. In most fabrics, the warp strands lie closely together, very straight; filling strands are usually more wavy and loosely woven. Warp and filling threads in turn, are composed of numberless smaller filaments, called fibres, and it is the quality of these fibres that determines the commercial value of the cloth. In some fabrics the warj) is a different material from that in the filling: other fabrics are made of warp and filling strands in which different materials have been mixed. For instance, a cloth composed of cotton and wool may have a cotton warp and wool filling, or the warp and filling may be composed of mixed cotton and wool fibres. Cotton and Wool. Wool makes a warmer cloth covering than cotton, and for two reasons. First, wool is a non-conduc- tor of heat. Second, wool cloths hold more still air between their fibres, and still air is a poor conductor of heat. The warmth of the body, therefore, does not quickly pass through a good wool garment. The wool fibre is curly, or wavy, and more elastic and re- silient than cotton. It absorbs more moisture and retains it a longer time. But cotton, it is interesting to note, is con- siderably stronger than the majority of wools. Wool. Wool is obtained from the fleece covering of certain animals, chiefly sheep and goats. To classify these wools is practically impossible. Their quality is conditioned not alone by the breed of the animal, but by its health and cleanliness, the nature of pasturage, and climatic condi- tions. The best grades of wool come from the Merino — a sheep native to Spain but which was introduced into Austra- R 18 Fabrics lia, England, Saxony, America and other countries. Saxony, Merino and certain types of Australian wool are generally preferred, and command the best prices, because of the fine- ness, elasticity, and felting or shrinking capacity of the fibres. The wool fibre has a very peculiar and interesting con- struction. Its outer surface consists of a layer of scales lying one upon another, presenting a more or less smooth, hard surface which reflects the light and gives the finished fabric its luster. The finer and more numerous these scales, the softer, more pliable and wavy the fibre; when the scales are large and fit over one another very tightly and closely, there is no freedom of motion and the fibre is straigh tan drigid. The waviness of fibres makes them well adapted for good spin- ning and felting. Wools whose fibres are wavy, soft and fine, make the best clothing. Worsted and Wool. Wool garments are usually spoken of as being made of worsted yarn or woolen yarn. Cloth made of worsted yarn is smooth, lustrous, and exceptionally strong; cloth made of woolen yarn has an uneven, fuzzy surface and is not so strong as the worsted. This difference results from the different ways of treating the fibres prepar- atory to weaving the fabric. In making worsted yarn, the fibres are run through a card- ing machine, which combs them and lays them parallel to one another. The fibres are run into a loose rope, or sliver, which is put through a special combing process, on a Combing Ma- chine. In this process all the short fibres are pulled out, leav- ing only those of a uniform, standard length to be made into yarn. The extra length of these fibres gives the increased strength to the worsted cloth, for the long fibres can be twist- ed more, thus securing a tighter grip upon one another. The hard, smooth, lustrous surface characterizing worsted fabric is secured through laying the fibres parallel before twisting or spinning them, and the use only of fibres of uniform length. When woolen yarn is used a fabric having a fuzzy surface R 19 Facts for Salesmen is produced. The wool fleece is run through carding ma- chines, but the purpose is simply to disentangle the fibres and remove foreign substances. No combing operation is per- formed to cull out the short fibres. No attempt is made to lay the fibres parallel in the carding operation or in any succeed- ing operation in the manufacture of woolen yarn: everything is done to arrange the fibres in a criss-cross indefinite fashion. From the carding machine the fibres are run into slivers, taken to the spinning sales, and spun into yarn. Because of the criss-cross condition of the fibres, their ends project; and the finished yarn, and therefore the finished fabric, has its characteristic fuzzy surface. Weaving. The weaving process is the same for both worsted and woolen yarns. It is done on looms, by inter- lacing two sets of threads, the warp and filling. R 20 •.W-VV-.V^AV-V-A^.-.V Facts for Salesmen There are three primary types of weaving in clothing gar- ments: the plain, twill, and satin weaves. In the plain weave, the warp and filling threads pass over and under each other uniformly throughout the fabric. In this weave, the threads are interlaced to the greatest extent, and the resulting fabric is therefore stronger than a fabric of any other weave made of similar warp and filling strands. The twill weave occurs in many forms, but each is char- acterized by a series of pronounced diagonal lines or ridges on the face of the fabric. The satin weave produces a cloth with a very smooth lus- trous surface. This is accomplished by passing each filling thread over a series of warp threads, then under one, etc. ; or the order ma}' be reversed, and each warp thread might pass over a number of filling threads, under one, etc. In either case the surface of the cloth produced will consist of smooth, parallel strands. The smooth surface reflects the light rays and gives the cloth its rich, lustrous appearance. The satin weave is used only with silk yarns, where the peculiarly char- acteristic lustre of the weave can be brought out to advantage as in linings, or facings. Finishing. When the plain woolen or worsted fabric has been woven, it is measured and inspected. All knots and loose threads are removed and anj^ breaks in the threads are repaired. The cloths are then fulled. Fulling consists essentially in shrinking the cloth, rendering it stronger, more compact and firm. It is done by soaking the cloth in hot water and soap, scouring it, and rubbing the fibres and yarns together by passing the cloth through two wooden rolls. By this process some woolen cloths are fulled to nearly one-half their original length and width. The amount of fulling distinguishes certain varieties of cloth; in the treatment of broadcloth, for instance, and other nap finished wools, the fulling is carried to a point where the R 2^2 Fabrics fibres become densely matted, obliterating all traces of the weave and giving the cloth the appearance of felt. (Napping consists in passing the cloth over one or two large drnms or cylinders whose surfaces are studded with fine steel hooks or teasels; the ends of the fibres are pulled out and the thick, fuzzy surface on the cloth is thereby produced). This napped surface is produced on cotton fabrics in a similar manner. Printed and Dyed Cloths. A printed fabric is one in which the patterns in any variety of colors, have been impressed upon one surface only. A dyed fabric is entirely impregnated with a color. A printed fabric may be distinguished from a dyed cloth very readily by unravelling a sniall portion and noting whether the fibres are of the same color throughout. Cotton. Cotton is a vegetable product, grown on cot- ton plantations. Its commercial value depends upon the length, fineness, strength and cleanliness of its fibres, and these qualities vary in the products of difterent plantations in different parts of the world. To classify cottons for commercial purposes, a minute system of grading has been established. The following out- line shows the principal varieties of cotton, in the order of their relative commercial values. PRINCIPAL VARIETIES OF COTTON j Sea Island Qualities Fibre Iji" to 1^", strong and silky Where grown Southeastern Coast of U. S. Ariz., So. Cal. Estimated crop produc- tion for 1920 in bales of 500 lbs. each 1,8G8 Arizona Egyptian 1 Egyptian and ^ Sakellarides Fibre VA" to 1^" Fibre l}i" to IH'' Ariz, and So. Cal- ifornia Egypt 92,561 1,127,140 Peruvian Peeler American Upland Fibre 1^" to l}4" Fibre 1^" and over Fibre 34" to iVs" R 23 South America Southern States of U. S. Southern States of U. S. 165,000 1,425,000 13,372,369 Facts for Salesmen Manufacture of Cotton Fabrics. Cotton does not require the elaborate treatment that does wool in being prepared for manufacturing. After the cotton is picked on the plantation, the seeds are removed on a Ginning Machine and the cotton is compressed in bales — in which form it arrives at the tex- tile mills. Here the cotton passes through the following pro- cesses: Picking, which separates the matted fibres and beats out the dirt, leaves and remaining seeds; Carding, which fur- ther cleanses the cotton, combs the fibres, and lays them par- allel to one another in the form of a loose rope or sliver; Spin- ning, which twists the strands of fibres, thus forming them into yarns of desired weight, twist and strength ; and Weav- ing, in which process the yarns are interwoven with each other, making the fabric. Sometimes cotton yarn is put through an additional process called Combing, in which the short fibres are removed. This process is similar to that used in the making of worsted yarns. Testing of Fabrics Used in Company's Clothing. Ihe United States Rubber Company has established definite standards to which all fabrics which are purchased must con- form before acceptance into the factories. Here one of the many advantages of our tremendous organization is seen in concrete effect. The Company buys fabrics in such large quantities that it can practically order goods manufactured to its own specifications. Tests have been instituted to de- termine that the cloths purchased contain no injurious sub- stances, such as copper and manganese in the dyes; that they contain the proper amount of wool, silk, or cotton, that they are dyed fast, that they possess standard strength, weight and fineness of weave. Wool. The test for ascertaining that the wool fabrics pur- chased contain the specified amount of wool depends upon the fact that a solution of caustic soda completely dissolves wool. A sample of the cloth is first weighed, then immersed in caustic soda; after a specified time, the portion of the cloth R 24 Fabrics remaining is removed and washed, dried, and weighed. The difference in weight indicates the amount of wool which was present and the percentage is then calculated. A very simple method for showing the relative amount of wool in a fabric, is to burn a small portion of the cloth. Wool, being an animal product, burns very slowly. It has an unmis- takable, strong odor. Cotton burns rapidly, leaves very little ash, and has no distinguishing odor. The difference in the effect of combustion upon cotton and wool is readily seen by burning a cloth made of cotton warp and wool filling. Silk. The test for silk in a silk-cotton fabric is con- ducted similarly to the solution test on wool, but the solu- tion is one in which silk dissolves. The weight of the sample cloth is taken before and after the test, and the difference in weight noted; the percentage of silk which was present is then calculated. Color. Two tests are made on all dyed and printed fab- rics for fastness of color. The first is carried out by placing the dyed fabric in water for a given time and noting whether or not the water becomes color stained. The second test is supplementary and consists in removing the wet sample and placing it on a white fabric. If the dye runs, it is instantly determined, for the white fabric shows the stain. Strength. Each fabric purchased is tested for strength by the Grab method. A sample of the fabric, of definite length and width, is placed between the jaws of a Grab Test- ing Machine, and strained to the point of rupture, a dial re- cording the number of pounds of force required to produce the break. Samples of each fabic purchased are thus tested, both for warp and filling strength, and if the cloth does not measure up to our minimum, established standard, the en- tire lot is rejected. Cotton fabrics possess greater strength in a moist than in a dry atmosphere, the increase of strength depending upon the amount of moisture present. Because of this fact, each R 25 Facts for Salesmen Grab Testing Machine factory takes into consideration the humidity of the atmos- phere, determined by a suitable instrument and makes the necessary allowance on the result as indicated on the Grab R 26 Fabrics Machine. The strength of all pnrchasecl cloths under vary- ing conditions is therefore uniformly ascertained. Weave. Fabrics are tested for fineness of weave by count- ing the number of warp and filling strands per square inch , over different areas in various samples. Each cloth purchased must not go below our standard minimum. Weight. The weight test gives final assurance that a fab- ric is not only of standard strength and fineness of weave, but that it actually contains the proper amount of material. The laboratories in the mills are equipped with delicate torsion scales which indicate the precise weight of the fabric. The Manufacturing Department of Ihe Company con- ducts all these tests with minute care. Fabrics which do not ; conform to our established specifications are rejected. Every precaution is taken that the cloths used on the Company's clothing articles are of the very highest qualities which the selling prices of the articles allow. REVIEW^ 1. Define the following terms: warp worsted yarn carding picking filling ginning sliver woolen yarn fulling combing napping Which of these terms refer to processes used in the manufacture of both woolen and cotton cloths.^ Which to only one .^ 2. What are the three chief kinds of weaves.^ Which two are most extensively used in the Company's clothing products .^^ 3. What are the chief tests used to determine the percent- age of cotton and wool and cotton and silk in fabrics? What simple test can be used for approximate results.^^ 4. What three chief tests are made on all fabrics.^ In this respect, what advantage is offered by the great size of the United States Rubber Company? R 27 CHAPTER V DESIGNING OF CLOTHING The Clothing Division of the United States Rubber Com- pany maintains four designing departments, each of which speciaHzes on one of the following: (1) Men's rubber surface and Slipons: (2) Women's and misses' rubber surface and Slipons : (3) Boy's rubber surface and Slipons: and (4) Repello cloth coats. Each department has its own chief de- signer with staff of assistants. These designers are men who are backed with many years of practical experience. Leadership of Company in Clothing Styles. In addi- tion to modes created by our own Company, generally speaking waterproof clothing follows the accepted seasonal st^des. Its leadership is traceable to the efficiency of its de- signing departments, of the personnel responsible for the final adoption of new styles, and to the progressiveness of the Clothing Division in securing the latest foreign and American models. The latest and best styles of English and French coats are obtained for the designers, through the foreign representa- tives and branches of the Company. Suggestions are received from the Company 's salesmen and managers — men who are always in contact with the dealers throughout the country. Through these various means, the pulse of style demand is continuously determined. At the approach of each season, each designer works out his patterns and sample garments are made up. Before any new style is finally accepted as a model, and the garments produced in quantity, it is approved by the head of the Clothing Division, representing the sales organi- zation — a man w^ho is an affirmed leader in the clothing in- R 29 Facts for Salesmen dustry constantly in touch with the sales force and with trade conditions and tendencies. Samples approved, they are returned to the factory. The necessary number of garments is made up and shown to the branch store buyers for their selection according to their par- ticular needs. This briefly, is the story behind the development of a new style "Raynster. " The design and construction features in ev^ery coat produced are the products of many weeks and mctnths of thought on the part of men who have had years of practical experience, who are especially trained in the work and who are in the best possible position to know trade ten- dencies. There is a logical reason for the style design of every part of each garment manufactured. "Raynsters" are dis- tinctive for their appropriateness and attractiveness of de- sign. The styles are varied and numerous, always progres- sive, but in conformance with good taste. R 30 CHAPTER VI MANUFACTURE AND CONSTRUCTION OF RUBBER SURFACE CLOTHING The manufacture of the Company's rubber surface waterproof clothing is divided into the following processes: TEXTILES RUBBER COMPOUNDING INGREDIENTS Testing Pic^kiaq of biirrH and kin)ts, l> rushing Drying Tests and classification Test! Final inspection and shipping Churning Washing and Drying Rubber. A garment coated with gum containing particles of sand, or dirt, will crack where these R 31 Facts for Salesmen particles occur. Rubber, arriving at the factory, therefore, must be well washed before it is used. Rubber is washed on a machine containing two horizon- tally-placed steel rolls, over which flows a steady stream of lukewarm water. The rolls revolve at different speeds, at least one roll being grooved. As the rubber is drawn through the rolls, it is shredded apart, impurities are squeezed to the surface and washed away in the cu.rrent of water. This pro- f Crude Rubber Being Washed cess is continued until inspection shows that all dirt has been removed. The rubber is now in the form of wrinkled sheets, well saturated with water. That the rubber be dry before being mixed with other in- gredients and used as proofing on fabrics is essential. If moistin-e be allowed to remain in the rubber, the heat of vul- canization will produce blisters and a faulty product will re- sult. After washing, therefore, the rubber is thoroughly dried in a darkened room in which the temperature and humidity are automatically maintained at the proper point. R 3^2 Manufacture and Construction Mixing and Compounding. Drying completed, the rubber is toiigli and must be broken down into a soft, plastic mass preparatory to mixing, so that it will properly absorb the compounding ingredients. The mill upon which the breaking down operation is performed, the Grinding Mill, is equipped with two steam heated steel rolls, through which the rubber is run until it is dough-like in its consistency. In this condi- tion it is delivered to the Compounding Room. Preparing Crude Rubber for the Cracker (Warming Mill) In the Compounding Room the rubber is cut into units of specified weight so that there will be no mistake in mixing in it the proper proportions of chemical ingredients — sulphur, litharge, etc. These ingredients, nearly all of which are min- eral powders, are then carefully weighed out in proper amounts and placed together in a "batch" which is then ready for mixing. The weighing out of compound ingredients is very important, and is done under the careful supervision of the foreman of the Calender Room. R 33 Facts for Salesmen Mixing. Upon the thoroughness with which the rubber absorbs the powder ingredients, depends the durabihty of the product. No small lumps must be allowed to remain in the mixture, nor any unevenly distributed particles, or the rubber film on the finished garment is likely to crack; just as it is if crystalline particles of matter are present. Skilled operators control ihe mills on which the rubber and chemicals are mixed. The Mixing Mill is larger than the Grinding Mill, though similar in construction, having two steel rolls, supplied with steam and cold water fittings to maintain a definite temper- ature and revolving toward each other at different speeds. The rubber is first run through the mill until it is warm and soft and forms a continuous sheet around one roll. The rolls are then brought slowly together so that the rubber sheet is just carried against the second roll, thus forming a little bank on top. The batch of chemicals is then emi)tied in the mill which carries the chemicals through the rolls and works them into the soft rubber mass. Frequently the operator slashes the rubber sheet with a knife and doubles it back upon itself, to secure the most thorough possible uniformity of mixture. By regulating the supply of steam or cold water, the temper- ature is never allowed to get above a certain point, as an ex- cess of heat at this stage would slightl}' pre-vulcanize the compound, and render it less plastic on the calender. xVs a further precaution that no lumps remain in the com- pound preparatory to calendering, the mixture, after having been allowed to remain for a time in a cool storeroom to re- gain its maximum strength, is put through a Refining Mill. This mill consists primarily of tw^o heavy rolls equipped with heating appliances, very similar in construction to the Grind- ing Mill. The operator adjusts the rolls until they almost touch each other; and as the rubber compound passes through, any lumps that might possibly have remained in it are broken down. The compound is now ready for calender- R 34 Manufacture and Construction ing, in which process the gum will be sheeted out into layers and run onto the fabric lining. Preparation of Fabrics for Calendering. When the fabrics to be used in making rubber surface coats have passed the various tests described on pages 24-27, special operators set to work to pick out all knots, loose threads, and burrs, and make The Calendar yardage examination. The cloth is then thoroughly brushed « in a brushing machine, and the loose nap and threads are re- moved through suction pipes. It is very essential that the surface of the cloth be uniformly smooth, so that the coating of gum may be evenly distributed; knots or burrs in a cloth would eventually pierce through the calendered gum coating when the garment was handled and folded. R 35 Facts for Salesmen The fabrics are then carefully dried on a dr\'ing machine. This machine is made with a series of large drums, all of which are equipped w^ith steam fittings. Over these warmed drums the fabrics are slowly run so that they are dry before going into the proofing process. The effect of using damp cloths is similar to that of using moist rubber — blistering of the rubber film results. Calendering. A calender is a machine having either three or four steel rolls, which sheets out the rubber and applies it evenly to the fal)ric. All the rolls are equipped with steam and cold water appliances, by means of which the calender operator maintains the rolls at an even temperature. The batch of rubber and the rolls of the calender must be of uni- form temperature, neither too hot nor too cold, or the gum does not calender out into a soft, plastic sheet of uniform smoothness. The calender operators in the factories are well trained, experienced workmen. Skilled men are absolutely essential to this job — thousands of dollars' worth of rubber passes through the calenders every day, and an inefficient man would cause high spoilage. As indicated in the diagram, gum is fed into the calender between the upper rolls, forming R 36 Manufacture and Construction a smooth, soft sheet around roll B. (diagram) The cloth is fed between the two lower rolls, and the sheet of calendered gum is pressed firmly upon the cloth, securing perfect adhe- sion. The thickness of the layer of calendered gum thus ap- plied may be varied by adjusting the distance between the calender rolls. The rubber surface of the calender coated cloth is sticky, or tacky, and has a highly lustrous appearance. It is there- I ' --5 "■'vm -^mm im mmimf Clothing Cutting fore passed through another machine which consists mainly of a dust box and two separate series of brushes. The dust box deposits a fine coating of powder upon the rubber surface — the color depending upon the desired color of the finished product — while the brushes work a fine film of the powder into the gum. As the cloth comes from this machine, the rubber surface has a soft, rich, velvet appearance and is no longer sticky. It is wound up on a drum while an operator carefully examines it for defects. R 37 Facts for Salesmen Superior Finishing on Company s Coats. The rubberized doth is then specially treated on a so-called Finishing ]\Ia- chine — a machine consisting essentially of two smooth steel rolls, both of which are equipped with steam heat and cold water appliances. When the rolls are of proper temperature, the coated cloth is run through; the surface powder already brushed into the rubber film is pressed into the rubber sur- face, making permanent the rich, velvety finish. Coat Makiiifj The fine finish on the rubber surface of the Company's garments is achieved partly through this additional treat- ment in the manufacturing process, and partly through the use of a special compound ingredient. The use of this ingre- dient adds the further, unique advantage of enabling the Company's rubber surface clothing products to resist, to the greatest degree, despoiling agents. Tn this way, the ageing qualities of the garments are greatly increased. Quality Inspection. All possible precautions are taken at the factories that every piece of calendered cloth is up to R 38 Manufacture and Construction our standard in every way before it goes to the cutting room. Every day, before the compounds are run on tlie calenders, samples of each compound are taken to the factory's chem- ical laboratory and tested for strength, stretch and perman- ent elongation. Special mills and calenders are maintained for running white goods in order that these goods may not be soiled. The workmen in the calender department are care- fully trained, and careful attention is paid to the proper upkeep of machinery. Constant supervision is exercised throughout the entire work. Cutting. The calendered cloth is now ready to be cut into the various parts of garments. Many layers are cut at once — from forty to seventy-five — depending upon the weight and texture of the material. To get the cloth in the plied-up form for cutting it is first wound up on an immense drum, one layer upon another, until the desired number of layers have been applied, and is then sliced off and laid upon the cutter 's table. The actual cutting is done by power machine. Upon the top layer of rubberized cloth the operator, using previously prepared perforated patterns, marks the outlines of the pat- terns for the different parts of the garments — fronts, backs, collars, sleeves etc. The parts are then cut out, marked and done up in bundles for the makers. Making. In the Making Department center the activities of all the preceding departments. Here all parts of the coat are assembled. When it is known that there are many differ- ent styles of rubber surface coats, each of which has twenty or more different parts, we may get some idea of the organ- ization ]:>robIems that develop here. Add to this also that each of these styles is made up in eight or nine different sizes, fabrics and colors, we begin to realize the importance of, and the many-sided nature of, the problem the Making Room presents. Chaos would result unless a well conceived method were R 39 Facts for Salesmen Hanger cemented on and riveted Extra reinforcing rivet holding front and collar All henimed Ejctra reinforcing pieces added at vent Rubber Surface Coat R 40 I Manufacture and Construction in use. In the United States Rubber Company's factories a simple but efficient plan eliminates practically all possibil- ity of mixing parts, without causing confusion to the makers. It is based on the Post Office system. Each maker has a num- bered box. As the parts are cut, in the Cutting Room, they are marked with the maker's number, and put in the box. The different parts come in, in this way, until the complete supply is ready. The maker simply opens his box and takes them out. When so many variations are possible, it is inevi- table that some errors will be made. But the Post Office meth- od of distributing parts, when the magnitude of the problem is taken into consideration, makes the system as near perfect as seems now possible. The great majority of rubber surface coats have no stitch- ing, because it is unnecessary. Vulcanization welds the parts together. The first operation in the Making Department, therefore, is the cementing of the edges on the various j^arts. The parts of the coats are then prepared in the following general order. No attempt is here made to describe in detail the operations of the makers; these operations vary with the different styles of garments and are important only from a manufacturing view point. (For indentification of parts, see diagram on page (-10). (1) Sleeves — consisting of two parts, oversleeve and under- sleeve. Edges of seams which show, and bottom edge of sleeve also, are carefully hemmed. By hennning is meant the folding back of an edge upon itself, along its margin, thus gi\'- ing an edge of double thickness, firm and neat appearing. (2) Pocket Laps — consisting usually of two parts, one cut slightly larger than the other. These are laid together, lining surfaces toward each other, and the edges of the larger part are folded down over the edges of the smaller. The over-lap- ping corners are cut to make a neat fit. This pocket lap is sturdy. (3) Backs — hemmed around their entire edge, and back R 41 Facts for Salesmen pieces are added at vents. The back piece itself is in two parts, hemmed on all sides, reinforcing the vent. (4) Collars — There are two distinct types of collars used; the plain collar, cemented directly on the coat, and the band collar (or Century) a shaped collar made u]) before attaching to the coat. (5) Fronts — front and front facing, hemmed and cemented together. Between these, stays, of rubberized fabric, are add- ed to reinforce those places at which the buckles or buttons Hanger cernented between the collar bands and riveted Extra nvet reinforcement holding collar and front Fabric coated on both sides with rubber Outer collar band Inner collar band Rubber Surface CoHar will be later attached. Eyelets for ventilation are added un- der the arm scyes. (6) Pockets — a slit is made in each front to fit the size of the already prepared pocket lap. Around the edge of slit is placed a strong piece of cord, cemented with the same high-grade cement used on all seams, and over this cord the pocket edge is folded. There is considerable strain at the edges and ends of a pocket. The cord on the Company's coats safeguards against tearing or ripping. Pocket lap is carefully adjusted and cemented in place. Special pocket stays are added for reinforcement. Then the pocket itself is added, on inside of front, thoroughly rolled down and trimmed neatly. All parts having been prepared, sleeves, front, back and R 42 Manufacture and Construction collar are joined together. Where any two parts come together the seam edge that shows is always carefully hemmed so that the finished garment is neat appearing and strong. All seams are cemented. At every seam, because of the hem- ming at edges on various parts, as noted, rubber meets rub- ber; and because of this, the seams are fused together during vulcanization, realizing a moisture-excluding union. Two parts of lapel cemented together Area where pocket cover is cemented to inside of coat Pocket cover cemented to inside of coat Pocket stay Rubber Surface Pocket Inspection and System of Work in Making Room. When the maker has finished work on all the garments called for by 1 his ticket, he takes them to the foreman of the Making De- partment. Each garment is carefully examined. The Manu- H facturing Department has made its system of inspection very rigid. Each maker is held responsible, not alone for the qual- ity of his ovAU workmanship, but also that the quality of every part in each garm ent he assembles is standard. He is instructed not to use any part that is not perfect; when in- s])ection shows that a maker has done so he is obliged to R 43 Facts for Salesmen make over the entire ganiient or rij) out the defective part and substitute a new part. Some of the work in the Making Room is done according to a sectionized plan; i.e., the work is specialized, each maker concentrating on individual operations. This plan is so oper- ated, however, that a defective part in any finished article is immediately traceable to the i)ersons responsible. No op- erator in any section is allowed to accept, from the i)receding operator, work that is not standard. Each clothing factory maintains a training school for ma- kers. The best known methods of performing every operation are taught and no maker is allowed to take his or her place in the Making Room until the required standard of workman- ship has l)een attained. Cement. It is evident that the service given by a rubber surface garment depends largely upon the cement used in binding the parts together, and in this respect, as in others, the United States Rubber Company has a noteworthy and a unique advantage. The cement used on the Company's gar- ments is not made of pure gum — a feature claim of many waterproof clothing makers, nor is it made of high-grade re- claimed stock. The Company's cement is superior in that it is made of a specially prepared rubber compound. It has body and strength. It cures into a homogeneous, elastic, moisture-excluding substance that will retain its desirable qualities during the life service of the coat. The rubber used in making our cement is Wild Para, than which no better has yet been found for cement making purposes. One of the very best testimonies to the unusually high quality of the Com- pany's cement is the fact that during the Great War the Uni- ted States Government, after a thorough investigation of the cements used on various raincoats, adopted that which was made by the United States Rubber Company as a universal standard. R 44 Manufacture and Construction Vulcanizing. When the coats are made up and approved at the final Making Room inspection, they are ready to be vulcanized. In this process the rubber and sulphur chemic- ally combine, forming a rubber gum that is elastic, dry and resilient and capable of retaining these qualities through varying degrees of heat and cold. Curing is another name for vulcanization. The clothing vnlcanizer is an immense, air-tight oven, or chamber, equipped with a series of coiled steam pipes. ;»^ ^^^^^Tn^-^^ X'ulcanizing Rooms Within the vnlcanizer the garments are hung on forms; the door is securely closed, and the temperature within is slowly increased until it reaches the point which has been ascertained by the laboratory department of the Company to be best for vulcanizing. This point, and the length of time it is main- tained vary according to the compound. Each vnlcanizer is equipped with a dial gauge upon which an indicator graphi- cally records the temperature within at every moment. The operator knows the exact rate at which the vulcanizing heat R 45 Facts for Salesmen is to be raised and the dial is not only a precise guide to him, but, in leaving an unalterable record of the cure, is a check upon the work. Finishing. The coats are taken from the vulcanizer and brought to the Finishing Room where another close inspec- tion of each article is made. Rivets are added at the ends of collars, pockets, and at all points where strain occurs in wear. Fasteners are put on, varying acc( rding to the style of coat. The types of fasteners are: ball and socket, snap and ring, metallic button and buckles. They are carefully attached to the coats at the proper places, which have been already rein- forced with stays in the Making Room, as described. Final Inspection. Packing and Shipping. A final examin- ation of each individual coat is now made. Every possible precaution has been taken by the Manufacturing Department to cull out all defective garments. Final examination is made by trained inspectors. Every defective coat is set aside and the defect referred back to the person responsible. The ticket which follows the work through the factory is so ar- ranged that the operatoi's who perforni the work on each part of each garment are known. When final inspection shows that a garment is in standard condition it is folded and packed in a carton, reafly for ship- ment. REVIEW 1 . What is the purpose of th e grinding mill ? 2. What two things are to be guarded against in mixing.^ Wliy is skill necessary here? 3. Why is such extreme care taken in preparing the fabrics for calendering? 4. Review the general order in which coats are assembled. (a) How are the pockets in our coats strengthened against ripping? R 46 Manufacture and Construdtion (b) Why are the seams especially sturdy ? (c) What fact can be advanced to prove the superiority of our cement? 5. How is the quality of material and workmanship check- ed through the construction of the coat? R 47 Facts for Salesmen The Fire Coat, as its name implies, is one that is snbjected to unusual service and put to the severest test for its water- proof quality. For this reason it must be made of a strong fabric, and a jean is used. This fabric is double coated, the seams are sewed and cemented, giving added strength. In its make-up are included the following features: — 48'' length with full sweep, giving absolute freedom to the fireman, a corduroy collar for neck comfort, adjustable straps and buckles on the sleeve, so that the garments may be tightened around the wrist if desired. Storm Fly front for added protection, galvanized snap and ring fasteners that will not rust. R 48 Manufacture and Construction The Regulation Police Coat is made to meet the demands of the policeman, who is exposed to all kinds of weather for indefinite periods. It is cut extra long, has a double over- jacket extending over the back, front and tops of sleeve, giving double protection at the most vulnerable part of the coat. In addition, the inside back is ventilated to prevent condensation of moisture on the inside of the coat, ball and socket fasteners permitting the garment to be easily opened when necessary. Other rubber coats are designed for street or general wear for various department uses and in fact, to meet any con- dition where a rubber coat is required. R 49 CHAPTER VII MANUFACTURE OF SLIPONS SINGLE AND DOUBLE TEXTURE CLOTHING The testing of the rubber, the compound ingredients and the fabrics, and the preparaton of these substances for use in the factory is done with the same care and in the same way as has been before described. No details of this work, therefore, are here repeated. Likewise many processes em- ployed in the manufacture of rubber surface coats and Shp- ons are the same. This chapter attempts to give only as much additional information as will be necessary for a clear picture of the essential differences between the manufacture of the two types of clothing. Single Texture coats comprise all those having fabric outer surface and rubber lining; double texture coats refer to those ha\ ing fabric outer surface and fabric lining, the gum being interposed between the two and therefore invisible. In both types the gum coatings consist of many layers, built up one upon another, on the fabric. Preparation of Rubber Compound. Single and Double Texture coats must he soft and pliable as well as waterproof. The w^eight of the garment depends upon the service for which it is intended. The gum for these types of clothing is therefore especially prepared. The rubber is compounded, passed through the Refining Mill and, unlike the process explained in the paragraph on calendering, is cut into small pieces and taken to the Churn- ing Room. Here the rubber compound and a rubber solvent — Naphtha — are mixed and churned until the rubber is completely dissolved. R 50 Manufacture of Slipons The resulting compound, having the consistenc}^ of an emulsion is then drawn from the churn in cans, ready for use in coating the fabric on the Spreading Machine. Spreading. The picture shows the type of spreading ma- chine used in the factories. It consists primarily of a knife blade suspended directly over a hard rubber roll. The gum compound is spread upon the cloth as it passes between the roll and the blade. The distance between these is very minute, Spreader Room and but a very fine coating of gum is applied. This coating, being very soft, sinks into every pore on the surface of the cloth. After the fabric comes through the roll and blade, it travelsover a long series of heated pipes or plates; the naphtha is evaporated, leaving the fine layer of rich gum compound upon the fabric. The entire process is then repeated, the di- rection of the cloth being reversed as each succeeding layer of gum is applied. The purpose of alternating the direction of the cloth is to secure a smoother surface on each layer R 51 Facts for Salesmen thereby increasing the strength and waterproof qualities of the cloth. Thus are the layers of rubber coating on Slipons built up, one upon another, the number depending upon the \yeight and texture of the cloth. Six to twelve coatings are the or- dinary limits. Through a long series of careful tests on cloths rubberized in various ways with varying munbers of gum lay- ers, the laboratory departments at the clothing factories have determined the most efficient proofing for every fabric used. In the case of double texture garments, both outside fab- ric and fabric lining are spread with gum in this way; then the two are doubled and firmly united by pressing them be- tween the rolls of a Doubling Calender. Striping and Proofing. The rubber lining on single texture clothing is sometimes striped, so that it closely simulates the appearance of cloth. These stripes, on the Company's gar- ments, are of actual rubber, not prints, and are applied on a special machine. They retain their cloth-like appearance throughout the life service of the garment. In addition to rubber coating the fabrics, the cloths on single and double texture garments are further proofed by a special process devised by the Company. Because of this treatment the fabric siu'face of the garment does not become soaked and heavy with rain. The natureof the work in the succeedingoperations — cut- ting, making, vulcanizing, finishing, inspecting, packing — is essentially^ the same as in the manufacture of rubber surface coats. The same watchfulness and care are exercised through- out all the work and before the coats are packed, they are in- dividually examined by a trained corps of inspectors. The Manufacturing Department has done everything humanly possible to make each coat that leaves the factory worthy in every way of the "Raynster" label, the heart of which is the Honor Mark of a great company. R 52 Manufacture of Slipons Outstanding and Constructional Features. (1) Workman- ship on seams. The seams of the Company 's single and double texture coats are cemented, stitched and strapped, securing a waterproof, sturdy and neat appearing union between all parts. Two coatings of cement are applied at each^seam; one Cement Brush cemented, one edge folded over, stitched and cemented Cemented and strapped Lapped Seam (Diagram A) Brush cemented and stitched Again cemented and folded over Used Seam (Diagram B) Cemented and strapped to the joining edges, before they are stitched together, the second after they have been stitched. The cement is made of wild Para rubber, especially compounded with other ingre- dients. The advantages of the Company's cement, and the R 53 Facts for Salesmen preference shown by the Government for it (hiring the war, should be remembered. In the first process the cement is apphed by brush, as on other Company coats, and not by the fingers, so that it is worked into each little depression on the cloth, between the warp and filling strands, Then as the seam is stitched to- gether, the needle and thread draw along some of the cement from the first coating, so that the needle holes are complete- ly filled. The second cement coating finishes the work; the needle holes are entirely plugged with cement and the inside seam surface is made perfectly smooth, (see diagram page 53.) A strip of cloth of the lining material, from one to one and a quarter inches wide, which has been waterproofed on the Spreading Machine, is cemented on the rubber side, laid over each seam and firmly rolled. This strip is called strapping. It is the final guarantee that the seams are waterproof. The strapping, moreover, strengthens the seams and gives a fin- ished appearance to the coats. In the case of single texture garments, a color and type of strapping is chosen which best harmonizes with the rubber lining. (2) Usco Seam. A special seam has been devised by the Company, called the Usco Seam, by which the parts are so joined that no stitching is visible to the eye. This is the high- est combination of utility and appearance that has yet been realized in the waterproof clothing industry, and is a feature to be emphasized when selling garments made with this seam. In an ordinary seam (diagram A) the two cemented edges are turned down and held down by stitching, the Usco Seam, after being brush cemented, stitched and cemented again, is turned down and held down by an extra coating of cement, so that no stitching is apparent. (Diagram B) The Usco Seam is also strapped on the inside by the rubber-coated and cemented strip of fabric. (3) Stafast Collar. For heavy double texture and heavy single texture coats, such as Ranchkote, Ruggedkote, Real- R 54 Manufacture of Slipons Button sewed on to button sUy between front and tront facing. Invisible to the eye Seam cemented, stitched, cemented and strapped Extra reinforcing pieces at ' Edges hemmed and double stitched Slipt R 55 Facts for Salesmen Hanger cemented Edges hemmed on and stiched EMges hemmed and double stitched Outer collar band Seam cemented, iched, cemented and strapped Slipoii ('ollar Outside of pocket . Pocket lining Area where pocket cover is cemented to inside of coat Slipon Pocket R 56 Manufacture of Slipons kote, a special stay-fast collar has been devised, the patent for which is controlled by the Company. A serious weakness in heavy double texture garments was that the hangers tore loose from their attachment to the coat collars, due to the weight of the garment. The "Stafast" collar overcomes this weakness by rivetting the hanger, not only through the col- lar, but also through a portion of the back of the coat. This is accomplished by a slight change in the cut of the back patt- ern, so that the back of the coat runs up under the collar. (Diagram ) (4) The diagram shows how the Company's "Raynster" Slipons are reinforced and finished at all vital points. Edges hemmed Rivet goes through coat and two collar bands Outer collar band Inner collar band Edges hemmed and double stitched Stafast Collar REVIEW 1 . How does the method of applying the rubber compound in single and double texture clothing differ from that used on rubber surface clothing.^ R 57 Facts for Salesmen 2. What advantage can be claimed through our method of straping on lining of single texture clothing? 3. Why can a salesman feel confident tliat the seams of the "Raynster" are waterproof? 4. Advance three special constructional features as selling arguments. R 58 Manufacture of Slipoxs t :f<. In the Slipon line, whether men's or women's, as ilhis- trated, many standard or staple fabrics are used, and in addition fancy nimibers, the style of the garment varying from season to season just as styles change in ready-to-wear clothing. R 59 Mil LIBRARY OF CONGRESS lllilliilllllllillil . 018 373 648 6 •I '1 I ii