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JOURNAL 
 
 OF AN 
 
 E X O XJ R S I o ]sr , 
 
 FROM TROY, N. Y., 
 
 TO 
 
 Gen. Carr's Head Quarters, 
 
 AT WILSON'S LANDING, 
 
 (FORT POCAHONTAS,) ON THE JAMES RIVER, VA. 
 DURING THE MONTH OF MAY, 1865. 
 
 BY ONE OF THE PARTY. 
 
 TROY, N. v.: 
 1871. 
 

 .<:■? 
 
 /c 
 
r 
 
 -1< 
 
 PREFACE 
 
 The following description of our trip to Richmond 
 and vicinity, was written immediately after my return 
 from the scenes and incidents given in the following 
 pages, from notes and letters addressed to friends at 
 home, for my own entertainment, and without the least 
 idea at the time of putting into print, and now only at 
 the solicitation of some of our party on that occasion 
 have I consented to its private publication, that we may 
 occasionally refer to it, as an episode in our lives, and to 
 remind us of the generous hospitality of our host and 
 hostess. Gen. and Mrs. J. B. Carr, and of our visit to 
 scenes such as had not been before witnessed by us, and 
 in all human probability we would never look uj)on 
 again, from the same cause, in our land. 
 
 I would also state in this place what would almost 
 seem unnecessary from the foregoing, that it is but a 
 simple narrative of what we saw and heard during our 
 brief trip, without the least attempt at rhetorical display, 
 but merely narrating what came under our observation 
 during our ten days visit to the James River, and the 
 vicinity of Richmond. 
 
 I shall feel compensated for wliat little labor and time 
 haH been devoted l)y me in tlie preparation of tliis pa})er, 
 
if I have succeeded in recalling some trifling incident or 
 reminiscence that would have been forgotten but for its 
 brief notice in these few and imperfect pages. 
 
 March, 1871. W. H. Y. 
 
JOURNAL. 
 
 On the tenth day of May, 1S65, Mr. William Kemp 
 received an invitation from Major General J. B. Carr to 
 visit, with a few friends, liis head-quarters on the James 
 River, at Fort Pocahontas, previons to his being mus- 
 tered out of the service of the United States, which ffom 
 the then present appearances, (the war being virtually 
 ended) would occur before the coming fall. Upon 
 its receipt, Mr. Kemp made known the contents of 
 his letter to the following named persons, who accepted 
 the invitation as stated by Gen. Carr, and appointed the 
 following Monday as the day on which we should set out 
 upon our excursion. 
 
 The following persons composed our party : 
 William Kemp and Wife, D. W. Tuthill, 
 Mrs. Robert Morris, Wm. II. Young, 
 
 Jno. B. Gale, James C. Spencer, 
 
 Who left the city of Troy on Monday evening. May 
 12th, 1865, at 7 o'clock, on board the steamer Vanderbilt 
 for New York. We arrived in New York about 6 
 o'clock on Tuesday morning, and after a comfortable 
 breakfast at Delmonico's reached the cars of the 8 o'clock 
 A. M., Philadelphia train, which passed through Philadel- 
 phia and set us down at Baltimore about four o'clock i\ 
 
6 
 
 M. of that day (Tnesday). The steamer Adelaide, for 
 Fort Mouroe, lay about 200 yards from the depot, for 
 which we started on foot over dusty streets and through 
 lumbering piles of merchandise to the wharf, where we 
 felt quite relieved. When once safely on board we placed 
 our little carpet bags upon the deck, and our ladies oc- 
 cupied them for temporary seats, while Mr. Kemp, our 
 indefatigable master of ceremonies, made a raid on the 
 officer of the boat to secure our state rooms, for which we 
 had telegraphed from ISTew York. After a few moments 
 his genial countenance appeared, with the keys of our re- 
 spective rooms in his possession, to which we then pro- 
 ceeded, and after disposing of our parcels went out upon 
 deck to view the motle.y crowd of passengers jostling 
 each other upon the wharf. We could not but express 
 our surprise at the unusual number of the Hebrew per- 
 suasion, who appeared to outnumber even the contra- 
 bands and soldiers on board. Soon after 5 o'clock the 
 order was given to cast off, and the plank drawn on board, 
 when we observed quite a respectable number of those 
 who had come on board with us picking up their baggage 
 and going on shore again, which circumstance tended to 
 cause a sensation of a vacuum about the regions of the 
 diaphram in, at least, one of our party, and we could not 
 help asking ourself the question whether anything had 
 happened to the machinery, or other reason excej)t 
 scarcity of state rooms, that they felt obliged to cpiit our 
 vessel ? While thus musing, the engine was put in mo- 
 tion, and in a few moments we were headed for the 
 Chesapeake, and passing Fort McIIenry, were soon out 
 upon the broad waters of that bay. 
 
After tea we repaired to our state rooms, and soon 
 were stretched upon the mattresses, but were allowed to 
 sleep but little, as the constant slamming of the door 
 leading to the deck precluded all idea of a comfortable 
 night's rest, our room being next to the quarter deck. 
 About 4 o'clock on the morning of Wednesday we were 
 aroused by one of our party rapping vigorously at our 
 window, urging us to open the sash that we might look 
 upon one of the most beautiful sights we ever beheld ; 
 upon which the sash was thrown back and the window 
 opened, lie pointed toward the sun, which M^as about to 
 rise fi-om the water, apparently from a splendid pool of 
 blood. The only response he received in return for his 
 pains, was from one of the party inside, who said that was 
 nothing new to him, for he once saw the sun i-ise while 
 at College, which had the eftect to spoil the romance of 
 a sunrise at sea M'ith our friend. 
 
 We arrived at the Fortress about 8.30 a. m., (Wednes- 
 day,) where we remained about an hour, discharo-iucr 
 freight and passengers.for that point, and where we wit- 
 nessed an incident that was not a little amusing to our 
 party, although a serious disai^pointment to the officers of 
 the Adelaide. Among the many articles of freight which 
 were being put on shore, was a beautiful iron safe of 
 medium size, which, with the aid of six stalwart negroes 
 had been dragged about half way up the plank, when, 
 fi-om its weight, it settled down and refused to budge 
 another inch. At this moment several negroes on shore 
 seized the hands of those on the i^lank, and they gave the 
 word, when the sudden jerk given by those on shore 
 caused it to careen a little, and in another instant, with 
 
8 
 
 one bound, it plunged into the water between the boat 
 and wharf, sending up a cohimn of water which showered 
 ns beantifnlly as the spray descended. The contrabands 
 looked first into the water, then at each other, then con- 
 cluded that it was safe at the bottom, and continued their 
 work as if nothing had occurred. 
 
 We soon cast off, and were on our way to Norfolk. 
 Our course lay through numberless government vessels, 
 of as great a variety as were ever imagined. There were 
 four iron-dads, including the rebel iron-clad slanting-roof 
 Atlanta, taken by our forces near or at Savannah last 
 winter : one double turret, and the others single turrets. 
 They lay basking in the sun, with their awnings spread, 
 looking to us as if sunk, their decks even with the water, 
 and as we passed them the swells from our boat would 
 wash over them. There were also two double-enders, 
 as they are called, (one the Pawtuxet) iron-plated, and 
 painted lead color, looking like two-story canoes with 
 masts and smoke stacks, and there seemed to be a fleet of 
 small tugs moving about the roads, such as are common 
 in our river, which reminded us of the home we had late- 
 ly left. 
 
 After passing through these vessels, our attention was 
 called to the Rip Raps, the works of which are still in an 
 unfinished state, the derricks for raising stone pointing in 
 all directions, while immediately on our left, Sewell's 
 Point earthworks were plainly to be seen, although dis- 
 mantled of their guns. On our right, a square buoy 
 painted black is anchored, to designate the place where 
 the Merrimac found a resting place after her fatal en- 
 counter with our little Monitor. We then entered the 
 
Elizabeth river, passing on our ronte several gnn boats, 
 and one double-tnrretted monitor, wliicli appeared so 
 quiet that it seemed to be taking a comfortable snooze. 
 Passing by the marine hospital, which is a magnificent 
 building, beautifully situated among fine shade trees and 
 shrubbery on our right, we came to the landing at Nor- 
 folk, and as our boat neared the shore (10.45) our eyes 
 were gladdened by beholding on the wharf Maj.-Gen. 
 Jos. B. Carr, wife and son, who had come down to the 
 landing to meet us. We were not long in paying our 
 respects to them on shore, and after a short time spent in 
 disposing of our carpet bags, we were taken charge of by 
 the General. Our first stopping place after landing 
 was at the Post Office, E. W. Whipple, P. M., (a former 
 Trojan,) to mail the letters that we had prepared on our 
 way down, after which we called upon a friend of Gen. 
 Carr, Mr. Cole, President of the First National Bank 
 of that place, and a fine gentleman in every respect we 
 found him to be. 
 
 After a short call made there, we walked through 
 the principal street, where we found the contrabands 
 monopolizing every available cellar-door or street corner, 
 disposing of their wares, — molasses candy in huge sticks 
 on a board predominating, varied however, with cakes, 
 cherries, strawberries, tarts and other edibles not possible 
 to enumerate, while all along our way lay basking in the 
 sun negroes of all ages and shades, principally, however, 
 of the true Ethiopian stamp. 
 
 We were now reminded by the General that the time 
 had nearly arrived when we must embark in order to 
 take advantage of the tide to reach his quarters before 
 
10 
 
 sunset, and at 12 o'clock, m., we proceeded on board the 
 good pro])ellor Ironsides, Capt. Vanderveer, and steam 
 being up, we Avere off at once. We retraced our route 
 up the Elizabeth until we reached the James River, 
 where some of our party observed several fishing boats, 
 and on learning that they were fishing for oysters, the 
 Captain suggested that he had a dredge on board, and 
 would scrape up a few barrels if desired. Slowing up a 
 little, the dredge, being secured by a line on board, was 
 thrown overboard, and running along two or three times 
 the length of the vessel, it was hauled on board with 
 about one bushel of oysters as the result. It was then 
 thrown out a second and third time, and each time with 
 better success than the first. The Alderman and Mr. 
 Spencer were the first to ascertain what those bivalves con- 
 tained, and not being satisfied with one or two trials with 
 hand saws, jack knives, and hatchets, the Alderman im- 
 pressed a cavalry soldier into his service, who intimated 
 that as the war was over he would have but little use for his 
 sabre in future, so with one well-aimed slash he would 
 trim off the hill of an oyster, and with the end of the 
 blade would insinuate it between the shells, and presto, 
 oyster would front face on the Alderman, only to be en- 
 gulfed in his capacious maw. 
 
 By this time we were fairly upon the James river, and 
 were gradually nearing Newport News, on our right, be- 
 fore reaching which, the wreck of the Congress, or what 
 remains of it, is distinctly seen, with a sloop lying by it 
 taking off her copper, and saving such portions of the 
 wreck as could be made available. The spot is also 
 pointed out where the Cumberland succumbed to the 
 
11 
 
 powerful blow given her by the Merriinac, shattering lier 
 and sending her to the bottom in less time than any ves- 
 sel of her size in any previous conflict between Tiaval 
 vessels. Passing by Newport Ne\vs landing two or three 
 hundred yards, we observed a spar standing out of the 
 water at an angle of about forty-five degrees, and full 
 fifteen feet high, directly on our track, which we were 
 told was all that was visible of the rebel steamer Florida, 
 captured at Bahia, Brazil, by one of our war vessels and 
 sent as a prize to Fortress Monroe, creating quite a 
 sensation at that time. While lying in hur position, she 
 was found to be in a sinking condition, and before the 
 valuables on board could be removed, and barely giving 
 the crew time to escape, she went down where she now 
 lies. 
 
 Our trip up the James was a delightful one, the 
 weather beautiful and a fine breeze accompanying us. 
 One of the most interesting objects, historically, on the 
 James, is Jamestown Island, upon which the first settlers 
 of Virginia erected the first church in the State, and 
 other buildings, all of which are now in ruins. All that 
 remains of the church is simply a single arch or doorway 
 of brick, and as seen from our boat it appeared to be about 
 twenty or twenty-five feet high, immechatoly in trout of 
 enormous trees, as if they had gi'own i:p tVoin the body 
 of the church, forming a beautiful Kackground to the 
 archway. 
 
 We reached Wilson's Wliarf(Foi-t PocalioTitas), Gen. 
 Carr's headcjuarters, about 7 o'clock, v. jr., wlicre we dis- 
 embarked, and ]»roceede(i to liis (piarters, formerly the 
 property of a Di'. Wilson, who skedaddled on the ap- 
 
12 
 
 proacli of our army, but has siuee returned, aud taken tlie 
 oath of allegiance, aud is (|uietlj awaiting the depaiture 
 of Gen. Carr, when ho intends to take possession again of 
 his property, aud try and be a loyal and law ;d)i(ling 
 citizen in future. The house was built about one hundred 
 and fifty years ago, is of wood, steep roof, dormer win- 
 dows in fi'ont, a large hall in the centre, wnth rooms cor- 
 responding on each side, Avith a dining room and kitchen 
 off the room on the left as you enter from the hall. The 
 view from the piazza in front, Iboldng out upon the James 
 river is very pleasant, the house being situated in a bend 
 in the river affording a delightful view for se^•eral miles 
 up and down. 
 
 After enjoying the hospitalities of the table abundantly 
 supplied by the General and his accomplished wife, we 
 take our meerschaum, and under the shelter of the front 
 piazza we rehearse and discuss the perils and hairbreadth 
 escapes of our journey thus far, and arrange our plans for 
 the succeecUng day, and it is now suggested that we each 
 seek our downy couch, or in the event of our not being 
 fortunate enough to find a downy one, we accept such as 
 may be prepared for us. Two of our party, Spencer 
 and Young, are invited to accept quai'ters with the Quarter- 
 master, who occupies Dr. Wilson's office for his sleeping 
 apartments, and we find it to be much more comfortable 
 than we had any idea of, for we were led to believe that 
 we were to occupy tents, and have soldiers' fare only, 
 while we find nearly all the comforts of a honu% surround- 
 ed with all the luxuries of the season. The others of our 
 party, Mr. Kemp and wife, Mrs. Morris, Mr. Tuthill, 
 and Mr. Gale, occupy apartments in the house with Gen. 
 
13 
 
 CaiT, there l)eiiig ample room and accomodations, and 
 here wc propose to lea\e them to sweet shnnl)ers and 
 pleasant divams in anti('i])atii>n. Wliih' most of our l>arty 
 have retired there are two of them at least engaged in 
 writing to their tamilies, at home, previons to retiring for 
 tlie night; and with the aid of a good kerosene lani]), (piill 
 pen and violet ink, we indite <>nr tlioughts n])on pa})ei', 
 and pre})are them foi- the mails, that leave this ]»ort early 
 in the moi'iiing. And now our camp bed is being pre- 
 pared foi' us and we are prepared for it. 
 
 Thursday Morning, May 18th. 
 
 We were lulled to sleep last night by the soft note ot 
 the whi])-]»oor-wil], and all else aj)])eared to he as quiet as 
 a chui'ch yard, except the occasional tram]) of the guard 
 as he ])asse<l in front of our (piarters. Once we were 
 awakened by the guard cliallenging some one to stand, 
 who after a short parley was allowed to proceed. From 
 that time until about 4 o'clock we slept soundly. Then 
 the bii'ds began theii' moi'niiig songs, and the air seemed 
 tilled with nuisic from those feathered M^arhlers, and our 
 frieiul Spencer could not content himself to lie there, but 
 insisted upon treating himself to the concert outside the 
 (quarters. 
 
 We took our breakfast about S o'clock, innnediately aftei" 
 which we received ordei's to be in readiness to accompany 
 the General on his tour over or around his fortifications. 
 We were ordered on board the Ironsides, where we all 
 proceeded, togetlicr with our cavalcade of almut til'tccii 
 saddh' horses, one and)idance an<l se\cral orderlies. Our 
 first visit was to Foit Powhatan, a few mih-s u]) the ri\cr 
 
14 
 
 under the immediate cliarge of Col. Sewell under Gen. 
 Carr. We visited all the ohjects of interest in and ahout 
 the Fort and M'ere handsomely entertained by the Colonel, 
 and soon re-end )arked on onr boat for the next fortification 
 a few miles still further n]> the river, Harrison's Landing, 
 which place we reached in about an honr after leaving 
 Fort Powhatan. The late John Tyler's residence can be 
 seen from this ])oint. On landing we were shown the 
 house, immediately fronting us, about forty rods from the 
 shore, where one of our Presidents was born, William H. 
 Harrison, his father Benjamin Harrison residing there 
 at that time. It is an old fashioned brick house, large 
 and airy, two stories and an attic with a splendid cellar 
 imder the whole house. It has the marks of a few shot 
 and shell on its front, thrown ft*om our gun boats as they 
 passed up the river, and one large one directly through 
 the roof The building is now used as a hospital for our 
 sick soldiers, many of whom were out up(^n the stoop and 
 door-ways, and some lying upon the grass about the house. 
 In passing near the house we observed the cherry trees, 
 full of ripe fi'uit, but every thing else appeared to be run- 
 ning to waste, as if there were no one who cared for it 
 enough to give it their attention. 
 
 From here we took horse and visited the Westover 
 House, about two miles distant, our horseback party con- 
 sisting of about thirty, among whom were Tuthill, Kemp, 
 Spencer, Gale and Young, neither of whom had ridden on 
 horseback for a long time, and all expected to see some 
 ground and lofty tunil)ling. Much to our astonishment 
 Young was the only one of our immediate party who 
 made any display and he being in the rear had the sport 
 
15 
 
 all to himself. He was the last one to mount his horse, 
 the others having got well under way. At the time the 
 General gave the word to forwai'd, Young had got only his 
 ' left foot in its place, and was about to throw his right 
 over the saddle, when his horse wheeled and started for 
 the cavalcade ahead. He secm'ed his seat, but his right 
 foot was kicking the big basket stirnip on that side, his 
 horse unmanageable and on a keen run, and (Ud not 
 slacken his speed imtil he came up with the party, when 
 Y. gained his stirrup, but was obliged to have a curb ])ut 
 on his horse in order to keep him in his place, after 
 which he was able to keep his position in line without 
 any difRculty. Mr. Spencer here changed his horse ti-om 
 the fact of his being too gay for him, his pants having an 
 aspiring tuni, already bade adieu to his boots, and grace- 
 ftdly appeared about his knees. 
 
 We soon arrived at the Westover House,* a nol)le old 
 brick structure, beautiftilly located, about three hundred 
 feet from the banks of the James. It was built by the 
 British Government about t^'o hundred years ago, for Mr. 
 William Byrd, senior. His son (bearing the same name), 
 whose tomb is situated in the middle of a once magnilicent 
 garden, covered with a neat looking summer house over- 
 grown with evergreens, from the inscription on the 
 monimient, must have been a very loyal subject, and 
 universally resj)ected. Below we give verbatim the in- 
 scription on two of the fom* sides of the monument : 
 
 " Harper' a Magazine for May, 1871, contains an interesting article on 
 the Westover Estate. 
 
16 
 
 The following inscription is on the front : 
 
 Here lyeth 
 
 The IIonoural)le William Byrd, Esq., 
 
 being born to one of the amplest fortunes in this country, 
 
 he was sent early to England for his education, 
 
 where under the care and direction of Sir Robkrt Soi'thwell, 
 
 and ever favoured with his particular instructions, 
 
 he made a happy proficiency in polite and various learning. 
 
 By the means of the same noble friend, 
 
 he was introduced to the acquaintance of many of the first persons of the age 
 
 for knowledge, wit, virtue, birth, or high station, 
 
 and particularly contracted a most intimate and bosom friendship 
 
 with the learned and illustrious Charles Boyle, Earl of Orrery. 
 
 He was called to the bar in the middle Temple. 
 
 studied for some time in the Low Countries, 
 
 visited the Court of France, 
 and was chosen Fellow of the Royal Society. 
 
 On the opposite side : 
 
 Thus eminently fitted for the service and ornament of his country, 
 
 he was made Receiver General of his Majesty's revenues here, 
 
 was thrice appointed public agent to the Court and Ministry of England, 
 
 and being thirty-seven years a member, 
 
 at last became President of the Council of this Colony. 
 
 To all this were added a great elegance of taste and life, 
 
 the well bred gentleman and polite companion, 
 
 the splendid economist and prudent father of a family, 
 
 with the constant enemy of all exorbitant power, 
 
 and hearty friend to the liberties of his country. 
 
 Nat: March 28, 1674; Mort : Aug. 26, 1744 ; An. Aetat 70. 
 
 The vandals who have visited this tomb from time to 
 time, have so defaced it by breaking off portions of it, that 
 it seems ready to tumble from its place. Large pieces are 
 now lying upon.the ground near it, and Mr. Tuthill pro- 
 posed that one of our party should carry home a piece 
 weio-hing about fifteen pounds and divide it up among our 
 curiosity seeking friends. The house is now occupied by 
 Union refugees who have here found a temporary home, 
 imtil they can retmii to then- own, unmolested by their 
 
17 
 
 former nei<j:hbor.s. Much of tlie furniture remains in the 
 house, just as it was left bv its former occupants. We 
 observed in the large hall an old fashioned spinning wheel. 
 In the drawing-room on the left stood a piano forte, upon 
 which one of our lady visitors, Mrs. Angel, gave us some 
 excellent music and favored us with a song accompanied 
 bv Dr. Thomas and Col. Angel. On the opposite side 
 was a ]>arlor organ, which also was made to send out its 
 tones to edifv our party. 
 
 The walls were all wooden paneled and painted, and 
 the ceilings were frescoed in relief The ornament 
 over the fireplace had been torn out by one of our 
 shot or shell, and its place supplied with rough Ijoards. 
 Our gun boats in passing had paid their compliments to 
 this house also, by sending a ten inch shell through tlie 
 front wall immediately below the second story window, 
 near the east end, tearing open the wall and passing 
 into the front chamber, where it exploded, tearing away an 
 imrnense chiniiiey and riddling the room, shattering the 
 wall and giving it the_ appearance of having been visited 
 by an earthquake. The refugees occupying this h<^»use re- 
 sembled limatics. There was a vacancy in their expression 
 such as you commonly find in the inmates of such asylums, 
 and they looked upon us with that vacant stare so 
 characteristic of peaceable madmen and women. In the 
 yard near the house sat an old negro, a perfect idiot. One 
 of our party inquired his age. His reply was incoherent 
 and ended with an idiotic horse laugh. 
 
 After satisfving ourselves with examining everything 
 connecter! with the house and its surroundings, we again 
 mounted our horses and proceeded to visit an old burning 
 
18 
 
 ground some tliree hundred yards from the liouse, where 
 we came upon a flock of Turkey Buzzards, the first 
 many of our party had ever seen. These being frightened 
 at our appearance from a repast upon the offal of a bullock 
 whi(.*li lay in the woods near the tombs, left their meal 
 and soared above and aromid us with their peculiar peek- 
 cry. Gen. Carr informed us they were the canary birds 
 of the army, and their song was a short and alarming one 
 aj)parently. After a short time spent m examination of 
 the inscriptions upon the tombs, which were principally 
 in Latin, we retraced our steps to the Landing, stopping 
 a short time in the fortifications. 
 
 We there witnessed an artillery drill by a squad of 
 soldiers, who went through the evolutions of loading and 
 tiring with as great regularity, precision and dispatch as 
 though the enemy were outside our breast works, and were 
 determined to keep them tliere oi- destroy them. After 
 paying a parting and hasty ^isit to the old Harrison Man- 
 sion, our horses were put on board the Ironsides together 
 with the ambulances. We turned oiu- steps in that direc- 
 tion and soon our boat was headed for Fort Pocahontas, 
 after lla^ing a very interesting -s-isit in and about the 
 vicinity of Harrison's Landing. 
 
 On our way do^^^l the river the place was pointed out 
 to us where Gen. Grant crossed the James with his army 
 upon a pontoon bridge on the occasion of his last visit to 
 Gen. Lee. At the landings on each shore were still to be 
 seen remains of a portion of the elevated trestle work upon 
 which the bridge was laid a few rods fi-om the water, while 
 here and there may be seen a pontoon boat that had Ijeen 
 rendered untit for use by accident or design. This spot 
 
19 
 
 will l)e pointed out to the traveler as lie passes iij) and 
 down the James, as one of the landmarks in the history of 
 this rehelliiin in which Gen. Grant made a forwai'd move- 
 ment only to seenre a victory. When once npon the track 
 of his foe, he has never been known to tnrn his back upon 
 him. 
 
 A little incident occurred just jM-evions to our embarka- 
 tion at Harrison's landiiii;' in which the Alderman played 
 a very conspicuous part. .Just before going on board of 
 our boat a little shower came up, when our municipal 
 friend, either from fatigue or fear of a little fresh water 
 damaging the choicest selection of his wardrobe, sought 
 refuge in one of the ambulances with the ladies of our 
 party, without iirst obtaining an order from the command 
 ing officer, whereupon the Provost Marshal was ordered 
 to bring charges against said Alderman for such conduct, 
 (Charges and specifications herewith.) 
 
 Hkai) Quarters Flagship Ikonsiijes, I 
 May 18tli, 1865. [ 
 
 General Order No. 101. 
 
 A general Court Martial wilj convene on board the Flag-.sliii) Ironsides 
 at 3:30 p. M. May IStli, 18(55, for the trial of William Konji), citizen of 
 Troy, an Alderman, and President of tlie Board of Education of said city 
 of Troy upon the annexed charges and specifications. 
 Detail for the Court : 
 
 ScROEON W. Tno^fAS, 38 Inft. 
 Captain W. S. Howe, A. Q. M. 
 William H. Young, Civilian. 
 
 None other than the al)ove named can l)e detailed without manifest 
 injury to the service. Ca])t. VV. S. Howe, A. Q. M. will act as Recorder. 
 
 I5y command of Ma.i.-Gen. Carr. 
 A. W. Angel, A. A. A. 0. 
 
 CHARGES I'HKFKUKKI) AGAINST Mr. KEMP, OF TROY, N. Y. 
 Charge. — Conduct unljccoming an Alilerman and a Gentleman. 
 
Wihiesses. 
 
 20 
 
 Si'KCMFicATiON. — III tliis, that William Kemp of Troy, did intrude njion 
 tlio company of ladies, In- riding in an ambulanfc from Harrison house to 
 the wharf. All this on or about May 18th, 1805. 
 
 Joseph Grkkn, Provost Marshal. 
 
 Mrs. Carr, Mr. Galk, 
 
 Mrs. Kemp, Gkn. Carr, 
 
 Mrs. Morris, Dr. Thomas, 
 
 Mrs. Anukl, Qr. Master Howe, 
 
 Mr. Tuthill, Col. Angel, 
 Mr. Spencer, 
 
 After bearing witnesses on both sides, tbe Alderman 
 was allowed to be lieai-d in his defence. Tbe principal 
 l)oint taken l)y bini was, that be was invited to take a 
 seat in said and)ulance by Mrs. Gen. Carr, and tliat under 
 the circumstances he justified himself from the fact that 
 Gen. Carr was absent at that mc^nient, and he considered 
 an invitation from Mrs. Carr as equivalent to an order 
 from the General. After a severe reprimand from the 
 Court be was allowed his liberty from that moment. 
 His position at that time in the Councils of the city of 
 Troy as chairman of the committee on Streets and Alleys 
 was of so important a character, that they waived the 
 punishment he so richly deserved, (drowning), and dismis- 
 sed the case with a reprimand. Tpon the rendition of 
 the verdict, he manifested in a very feeling manner to 
 all present his heartfelt thanks, after first appealing to his 
 tearless wife for her sympathy in bis trying situation. 
 
 After tbe court bad completed their labors Me bad 
 nearly reached our head quarters, where we soon disem- 
 barked and a few minutes' walk brought us to our former 
 quarters. We then arranged our plans for the succeed- 
 ing day, deciding upon a visit to Petersl)urgh. Our 
 orders were to be in i-eadiness at (> o'clock, on tbe 
 following morning, (Friday 19tb.) During tbe remain- 
 
21 
 
 der of the evening, the General received several of the 
 former residents of this vicinity, who had lately returned 
 and taken the oath of allegiance, and wished to present 
 their claims for their property, then in the posses- 
 sion of our forces, particulars of which I propose to give 
 at length in their proper place, one of which however 
 I will mention here as it occurred at this particular tiine. 
 Two very seedy looking individuals came up to the 
 General, one of them removing from his head what 
 would be called a miserable apology for a hat, and re- 
 quested that they might be allowed to visit the family 
 burying ground, but a short distance from the fort through 
 which they would be obliged to pass. The General gave 
 them a pass, and they proceeded on their way. They 
 had gone but a short distance when one of them turned 
 around, and I observed the tears trickling down his sun- 
 burned cheeks, as he turned his face again towards the 
 hallowed ground, which had been left undisturbed by 
 our forces. 
 
 The balance of the avening was spent by our party in 
 writing to our friends and families, after which our ex- 
 hausted bodies sought repose upon our conches, in the 
 hope that we might be refreshed and ready for the du- 
 ties and fatigues of the day following. 
 
 We arose early on Friday morning, which was bright, 
 clear, and full of promise for a pleasant day's excursion. 
 At 6 o'clock, precisely, we were all on board our flagship 
 Ironsides. Capt. Howe, our Quartermaster, had at- 
 tended to getting our supplies, horses and ambulances on 
 board at an earlier hour. Our craft being headed up the 
 
 James, we soon left Fort Pocahontas, with Broadway 
 4 
 
22 
 
 landiiiii^ for our destiiuition. On reacliiiiii; City Point we 
 were all disappointed to see so large an amount of ship- 
 ping- lying at the Mdiarves and anchored in its immediate 
 vicinity, wdiile the ntmost activity prevailed on the part 
 of the stevedores in loading and unloading materials for 
 the army. AVithout being able to give the exact num- 
 ber of vessels, T slionld say there were from eighty to 
 one hundred of all classes, steam-tugs, ferry-boats, ships, 
 gunboats, schooners, brigs, and in fact every conceivable 
 thing in the shape of a vessel could be seen from our 
 steamer. There must have been from twenty-five to 
 thirty locomotis-es on board vessels anchored in the 
 stream, waiting their turn to proceed to the wharves and 
 discharge their cumbrous freight, while on all sides were 
 barges, sloops and schooners, wutli their decks covered 
 with freight cars, among which Mr. Tuthill recognised 
 quite a number that were built by Gilbert, Bush & Co. 
 of our own city. We also saw at the Point a brig lying 
 upon her beams ends, that had been run foul of the day 
 before, capsized and sunk, with men at work upon her, 
 preparatory to raising her. 
 
 Passing by City Point, our vessel turned her head 
 from the James, and headed for Broadway Landing, sit- 
 uated but a few miles from City Point on the Appomat- 
 tox, and after a short time we found our craft making 
 preparations for coming to at the landing, Mdiieh was not 
 particidarly interesting to us, as it appeared quite unin- 
 habited, with the exception of a few Union soldiers and 
 several huts. Our landing effected, orders were imme- 
 diately given to disembark, and in a very short time all 
 were on shore, Gen. Carr and staff, ladies and gentlemen, 
 
23 
 
 the ladies takiiiii' tiieir aiiil)iilanees, and the i;(iitlcii;ui 
 tlieir horses. AVhen the order came to iiiouiit. each 
 gentleman appeared to be at once in his seat in the 
 saddle. AVlien the word forward was given, we all started 
 at the usual rate, full gallop, the ambulances following, 
 with a corps of orderlies in their rear. 
 
 We now ascended a hill, through a ravine, our horses 
 jumping the streams and ditches, and threading our way 
 through underbrush, until we reached a fine plateau, 
 stretching out over a vast territory of table land for two 
 or three miles. We then came upon what was once a 
 beautiful forest of pine trees, but is now a wilderness of 
 stumps, ranging from two to three feet high, through 
 which we made our way as best we could, often being 
 obhged to change our course to the right or left to avoid 
 the carcasses of dead horses or mules that were scattered 
 promiscuously along our path. On our course we were 
 often reminded of the desolation of war, in the total de- 
 struction of fences, but a solitary one of which Me ob- 
 served during our whole journey of eight miles into 
 Petersburg!!, (and that one was being built,) the debris of 
 abandoned camps, little mounds designating where some 
 poor soul had found a resting place, and been mustered 
 out of service in this army to join the innumerable hosts 
 that have j^receded them to another and a better world. 
 Thoughts like these would thrust themselves upon us 
 while journeying through this field of death and destruc- 
 tion, marked as it was at every footstep, until some more 
 wonderful sight impressed u})on our vision the ruins that 
 were constantly brought before us ; trees cut doMii w ith 
 sliot, others so cut up that it seemed as if another bullet 
 
could not find a resting place unless dispnted by an occu- 
 pant already lodged there, — broken and twisted rails, 
 from the City Point and Petersburgh railroad. 
 
 As we neared the city. Gen. Carr and party visited 
 his bomb-proof cabin, made under ground, which was his 
 headquarters for nearly six weeks, and where, by the 
 light of a tallow candle, he issued his orders to his army. 
 Part of this rude structure still remains, as he left it at 
 the time of his advance on Petersburgh. 
 
 We now ascend a little hill, and the steeples of Peters- 
 burgh are plainly to be seen rising up, with a fine back- 
 ground. As we came up to a little old fann house, occu- 
 pied by contrabands, we halted for a few moments, and 
 indulged in the first cool and refreshing di-aught of well- 
 water that we had tasted for a long time, our sable fi-iends 
 vying with each other in administering to our wants. 
 The remainder of our journey was through a valley as 
 bare of vegetation as if a fire had passed over it. Here, 
 for the first time on our route, a solitary grave marked 
 with a head and footboard, near a tree, met our eyes. I 
 endeavored to read the inscription, but fi'om my seat was 
 unable to distinguish the letters painted upon the head- 
 board. Passing along a short distance we came to a little 
 stream, clear and rippling, where we halted to give our 
 horses a hurried di^aught, and again we were reminded of 
 the destructive elements of war. A foot-bridge had been 
 made of the iron rails from the roadbed running to Peters- 
 burgh just above us, five or six of which had been care- 
 fully laid abreast of each other, being just long enough to 
 span the stream at that point. 
 
 Ascending the hill immediately in front we come upon 
 
25 
 
 the direct road leading into Petersburg]!, jnst before 
 entering upon whicb we pass under a beautiful and grace- 
 ful iron bridge, M'liicli the railroad crosses. Passing 
 under it, and a short distance from it we enter the out- 
 skirts of the city. Upon either side of the road are scat- 
 tered the residences of the poor whites or contrabands, 
 principally the latter. As we ride along, not a house 
 could we discover but that liad received a shot or shell, 
 and in many instances dozens of them, through their 
 sides or roof. We noticed one particularly, the Gas 
 house, which the General told us had been a fine target 
 for our guns, as it was on an elevated position. It had 
 received 2nany compliments, tearing it open and throwing 
 down its massi\-e walls, ri})})ing up the tin roof from end 
 to end. The trees, too, bore evidence of ha\ang stood in 
 the way of our bullets at the time they were sent in that 
 direction. We rode along quietly, looking at the sad 
 havoc thus made, until our eyes gi'ew tired of looking at 
 the ventilated dwellings. We tlien turned our attention 
 to the inhabitants, who looked upon our cavalcade as a 
 " military necessity," and proceeded listlessly along about 
 their calling. Now that the despised Yankee had pos- 
 session of this city, the people were subdued, and like 
 Micawber, seemed "waiting for something to turn u}»." 
 At short intervals we would meet the jiatrol on guard, 
 and as they recognized the stars on the GeneraFs shoulder, 
 they would stop and present arms until he had passed, 
 when they woidd resume their duties as before. 
 
 We rode through the principal streets, but saw \ery 
 few ladies out, and those we did see looked as if they 
 were not familiar with the Ladies' Book for 18G5,for their 
 
26 
 
 dresses and general costume looked as if they belonged 
 to a different era. 
 
 The General and party called upon Gen. Ferraro, who 
 entertained us at his quarters as well as circumstances 
 would permit. The}' were in a very comfortable and com- 
 modious house, built of Ijrick, and had a fine yard, in the 
 middle of which was a two-story Ijriek building, intended 
 for the slaves of the family in fonner times, we supposed, 
 as on examination we found quite a number of the Afri- 
 can species assend)led in and about it. 
 
 After a sliort time spent \-ery pleasantly with the Gen- 
 eral, we momited our horses again and made our way to 
 the residence of General Potter, who was so seriously 
 wounded at Fort Hell, near Petersburgh. We found 
 him at a fine mansion, situated in the centre of a square 
 surrounded by l)eautiful shade trees. We rang the bell, 
 which was answered by a middle-aged white lady, who 
 informed us that the General would see us in his room. 
 We found him sitting up in his arm-chair, very pale and 
 weak, although gaining rapidly. He informed us he had 
 indulged in riding out for the past two or three days, and 
 hoped to be able to leave for New York the following 
 week. After paying our respects to him, we proceeded 
 to visit the rebel fortifications about the city. 
 
 Our first visit was to the mine, but a mile or so from 
 the city. On our appi'oach to it we passed through the 
 rebel's camp-gi'ound, their rifle-pits and fortifications. 
 At this point the two armies were not more than 
 five hundred feet distant from each other. We visited 
 the tunnel which our men dug from their lines under 
 and into those of the enemy. After putting in the 
 
2T 
 
 powder and exploding- the mine, killing and vronnding 
 nianv of tlie enemy, the ati'air resuUed in a di.'^a.strons 
 calamity for oni- forces, from an oi'der not Ueiiig promptly 
 obeyed by subordinates of onr army. The opening made 
 in the earth l)y that explosion I should judge to be about 
 the size of one block in our city, although the size of the 
 mine wliere the magazine was cx]»loded was not more 
 than twenty -h\o feet s<[uarc. We picked uj) (piiteanum- 
 l)er of pieces of shell, some small sliot, and a few bayo- 
 nets at this point, hut the ground had been visited by 
 thousands already, and all small arms and other relics had 
 l)ecome (piite scarce. There was plenty of shot and 
 scraps of- shell still to be picked u]) there, however, and 
 could we have had the means of tran.sportation at hand, 
 we could have collected a ton in a very short time. 
 
 We \isited all the works in this immediate \ncinity, in 
 eluding the cemetery, which our forces intended t<T occu- 
 py innnediately aftei' the explosion of the mine, and we 
 observed holes cut in the sides of the road where the 
 rebels sought refuge from our shot. Riding l)ack by an- 
 other road, we beheld evidences of our well-aimed shot 
 upon the most prominent buildings as we passed. 
 
 The most common conveyance used l)y tlie peasantry 
 in that vicinity was the old-fashioned two-wheeled cart, 
 drawn by as poor a lot of mules as one M'ould wish to 
 see, with harness that might have l)een made a century 
 ago, tied together with rojies or strings as the case re- 
 quired, with r()j>es for lines, and everything connected 
 with it of the same character. We now conmiciiciMl i-i-- 
 tracing our steps, and taking a different road bade fare- 
 well to Petersburgh and its ruins, first however sto})ping 
 
28 
 
 at a house familiar to the General for a draiia^ht of well 
 water, and then tui-iied dui- horses' heads towards Broad- 
 way landing. We soon came n])on a train of army 
 wagons numbering neai'ly one hundred, in I'oule for 
 City Point, six nndes in front of each, dri\en by a con- 
 traband without lines, but armed with a long black snake 
 wliij) which tliey would handle with considei';il)le skill 
 talking in a sort of jargon to their nudes. It was a siglit 
 worth seeing, to those of us who had never beheld a train 
 of army wagons before, and who will not probaldy 
 see their like again. We have looked at the pictures of 
 an army train in the illustrated ])apers, but they must be 
 seen moving to give anything like a coi-rect idea of them. 
 After proceeding about two miles from the city the Gen- 
 eral took us to visit another battle ground with which 
 he was familiar, having been present during several en- 
 gagements. At one time their works were but a few 
 hundred feet from those of the enemy. On this held, 
 which was quite near the railroad, we picked up several 
 guns, shot, shell, bullets, and other relics. Gen. Carr 
 called our attention to little spots all over the field where 
 the grass had grown u]) (pnte raidc and high, stating that 
 at each of those little spots a man had fallen, and been 
 buried there. We examined many of them. In some, 
 the earth that had been thrown upon the remains had 
 been waslied off b}^ the hea^'y rains, leaving, in many 
 instances, whole bodies exposed to view, others only por- 
 tions, but (|uite enough to give us a I'ealizing sense of the 
 horrors of war. Beside each little mound could be seen 
 some ])ortion of the clothing worn by him who was 
 sleeping so unconsciously by. One we remember, whose 
 
29 
 
 face was turned upwards, and whose skull was as white 
 as alabaster, had but a few shovelfids of dirt thrown upon 
 the body. One shoe with tlie Ijones of the foot inside it, 
 a few feet from the body, a liannel shirt torn and soiled, 
 told too plainly what manner of death and burial he had 
 received. That man had once been a little prattling boy, 
 his mother's pride perhaps, nursed, cherished, schooled 
 and prepared for active life. Perhaps he had died a 
 father, and his children can never know when and where 
 he fell. How sad, if we allow our thoughts to dwell 
 upon the realities and vicissitudes of this life, in all its 
 varied scenes. 
 
 While musing thus upon the battle-field, the screaming 
 locomotive comes thundering along, and our horses prick 
 up their ears, and we must give them our attention. 
 We here select a few relics, and deposit them in the 
 keeping of our orderlies, and take up our line of march 
 for the landing, once more striking out at this place 
 upon the road we passed over in the morning. Mr. 
 Tuthill had abandoned his horse at Petersburgh, becom- 
 ing a little fatigued from the exercise, and had taken a 
 seat in one of the ambulances with the ladies. The 
 weather was exceedingly warm — the sun was pouring 
 down upon us his most scorching beams, which drew 
 upon us who were on horseback many a doubtful com- 
 pliment from some of our more fortunate companions in 
 the ambulances. We here came upon a small stream, into 
 which we all dashed with our horses, and while refresh- 
 ing them the Alderman's horse, wliicli had been wound- 
 ed in one of our engagements, feeling a little more 
 
 fatigued than tlic rest, made a feint to lie down in the 
 5 
 
30 
 
 water, and in doing so splashed the water over liis neigh- 
 bor, Yonng. Kemp at that instant observed his dispo- 
 sition, and giving him a hearty kick in the sides, he 
 recovered his feet, while our whole party enjoyed a 
 hearty laugh at the Alderman's expense. 
 
 We reached the Landing without any further incident, 
 and at half past three o'clocl^ we started once more, on 
 board our flagship, for the General's headquarters at 
 Wilson's Wharf, Fort Pocahontas, where we arrived in 
 safety about 6 o'clock, feeling quite fatigued with our 
 day's excursion to and from Petersburgh. 
 
 On our return. Gen. Carr received orders to break up 
 his camp at Fort Pocahontas and Harrison's Landing, 
 and proceed to City Point to take command of that posi- 
 tion, which interfered a little with our arrangements, as 
 our programme was made out to visit Richmond on the 
 day following. But the General insisted upon our 
 making the visit as anticipated, although his late order 
 would prevent him from accompanying the party. It 
 was arranged, however, that Mrs. Carr should accompany 
 us, and we were to leave in the morning for City Point, 
 and there take the steamer for Richmond. ^ 
 
 Early on Saturday moi-ning the General made arrange- 
 ments to visit Brandon House, on the opposite side of the 
 river from his quarters, as we would have time to do so 
 before the boat from tlie Fortress reached City Point. 
 Accordingly after breakfast the Ironsides was called into 
 requisition again, and we steamed across the James, 
 and about two miles below we effected a landin"; near 
 the shore, making our steamer fast to the remnants of a 
 pier that liad been burned, leaving only a few j)iles stand- 
 
31 
 
 ino- after which we took the small boat and reached the 
 shore. 
 
 We were conducted by the General to the Ijroad walk 
 leading from the river to the mansion, on both sides of 
 which was the choicest variety of flowers, of all des- 
 criptions apparently, and in the most profuse quantities. 
 We selected boquets from the assortment, only to cast 
 them aside on finding others more beautiful. We reached 
 the house, which stands about three hundred feet from the 
 river, shaded with noble old trees, and on coming to the 
 portico of the front door we found marks of musket 
 shots all around the door way and against the stone steps 
 leading to it. The front door was closed, but an orderly 
 was sent to open it, and soon our voices were heard 
 commenting upon the devastations that had run riot 
 through this once happy home. The family had aban- 
 doned it, carrying off all the valuables possible, leaving 
 much of the bulky ])ortion on the premises, and when 
 our soldiers visited it, they completed the work of de- 
 struction by tearing up the inside work, smashing win- 
 dows, and throwing down the doors. We noticed quite 
 a quantity of broken bottles and demijohns, Avhich had 
 been used for targets by our soldiers, in the wine closet, 
 and picture frames from which the paintings had been cut 
 standing against the walls or thrown upon the floor. In 
 one room a large pile of papers was heaped u]), and on 
 examination we found them to be letters addressed to the 
 Harrisons, Ritchies, and other F. F. V.'s,from which some 
 of our relic collectors selected such as they desired, re- 
 gretting that they co\dd not take the whole collection 
 for curiosity's sake. 
 
32 
 
 After making a few selections from tlie otlier articles 
 that were strewn upon the floors, and tlioronghly examin- 
 ing the rooms of tlie mansion, we again proceeded to the 
 garden, and there fonnd a fine strawberry bed, where we 
 feasted upon the choicest variety of that luscious fruit to 
 our entire satisfaction. While thus engaged, several re- 
 ports of iire-arms were heard in close proximity to us, 
 and being informed by the General that a guenlla had 
 been shot and left in his tracks but a few days before in 
 this vicinity, we felt a little anxiety lest we might be ex- 
 posed to the range of one of their leaden messengers. 
 The General sent one of his orderlies to ascertain who 
 were the parties engaged in that pastime. He soon re- 
 turned and informed us that some of the men from the 
 Ironsides had brought their own fowling pieces, and had 
 secured some quails in the neighborliood, which quieted 
 om* fears. 
 
 Among the many varieties of fruit we found a number 
 of fig trees, the fruit of which was about the size of 
 robins' eggs. The magnolias were the largest specimens 
 ever beheld by any of our party, one of which was 
 secured by Mr. Gale, the flower measuring full ten 
 inches across, and his only regret was that he could not 
 preserve it in its present state until he could reach home. 
 In the garden in the rear we observed a beautiful little 
 rocking horse tliat had been thrown there l>v some of the 
 vandals who had visited the ])lace, wliich recalled to our 
 mind the fact that here too, children had sported and 
 gambolled, and we could only imagine in our minds 
 where they had found a place free from the invaders' 
 ruthless hands. We inquired of an old negress how 
 
33 
 
 many slaves her master had on this ])]antation. Her 
 reply was, "Lor, Massa! yon could not count 'em in all 
 day." It was said there was more than six miles of rail- 
 way on this estate, laid down by the proprietor for the 
 trans])ortation of his ]>roducts, and for other plantation 
 purposes. 
 
 After luxuriating- among the flowers until we became 
 satiated, the General informed us it was time to return. 
 We proceeded to the beach where we found thi'ee of the 
 former slaves belonging to this estate who had return- 
 ed to their former home, and Avere living as best they 
 could upon the premises. They offered us some excellent 
 butter-milk, upon which some of our ])arty indulged, for 
 which we tendered them some fractional currency. They 
 looked at it again and again, turned it over and examined 
 it carefully, when one of our . company asked one of the 
 females if she knew what it was. She replied it was 
 money, " Yank money ; we money no good ; Yank 
 money buy." Without knowing the value, not being 
 able to read, she hid it away about her person, seemingly 
 quite satisfied. Our sailors gave the old slaves a few 
 loaves of bread, and we embarked again on board the 
 Ironsides, bidding adieu to one of the loveliest si)ots we 
 had \isited up to this time. We soon reached our land- 
 ing, and made immediate preparation to })r(>ceed to City 
 Point to take the boat for Richmond. 
 
 We made a brief visit only at Fort Pocahontas on our 
 return from r>i-;ui(l<)ii House, and were soon on our way 
 to City Point, which ])lace we i-eachtMl amid a violent 
 shower in time to take the Government boat llt'(\ Jacket 
 for Richmond. 
 
34 
 
 We shortly started, our boat carrying about two hun- 
 dred passengers. The first point of interest after leaving 
 City Point was the celebrated Bermuda Ilundi-ed, and 
 from that place to Richmond we were shoM'h by some of 
 the passengers particular parts of the shore and river 
 memorable for historical events connected with the war. 
 All along on the blufts were formidable fortifications, 
 many of them very prominent, others where masked bat- 
 teries were planted to intercept our gunboats, while all 
 along the shores on either side were scattered torpedoes 
 that had been fished up and cast ashore. Here and there 
 were visible sunken vessels lying where they were placed 
 in the river liy both armies, while at other places little 
 flags were visible, apparently floating on the surface of 
 the water, denoting that there torpedoes were sunk and 
 had not yet been removed. We passed the wreck of one 
 of their iron-clads, which had been disabled by the fire 
 of our heavy guns, making it a complete wreck, leaving 
 a solitary gun upon the quarter-deck, dismounted, point- 
 ing to the Northern shore. A little farther up we passed 
 the famous Dutch Gap Canal, with its bomb-proof case- 
 mates dug in the sand all along the banks of the shore in 
 the vicinity, (resembling swallow-holes, only on a larger 
 scale, in some of our sand banks at the lower ])art of our 
 city,) where the men engaged in digging the canal would 
 hasten for refuge when the enemy's shell began to 
 whistle about their ears. The opening for the canal is 
 but tw(t hundi'ed and twenty feet long, and the cutting 
 perhaps thirty feet deej). The water is al)out seven feet 
 deep, and vessels drawing six feet have passed through, 
 saving thereby seven miles of i-i\'er travel. It was sug- 
 
35 
 
 gested that one of Osgood's steam dredging machines 
 should iinish the joh, as in a short time it would give 
 them ten or twelve feet of water through it, and make it 
 a permanent and serviceable canal. 
 
 A few miles further up two ocean steamei-s, the James- 
 town and the Yorktown were sunk side bv side, their 
 paddle-wheels and walking-beams still above the water, 
 serving as an anchorage for drift-wood only, as the channel 
 is sutticient to admit of vessels passing by them on either 
 side. These two vessels served as tenders to the Merri- 
 mac at the time she made a raid upon our war vessels at 
 Newport News. As we neared Richmond, the Hewlett 
 Battery, once a very formidable one, was being dis- 
 mantled and the guns placed upon schooners lying at 
 the landing inmiediately below. A few rods fi-om the 
 battery is the Hov.dett house, or what remains of it ; a 
 mere skeleton, ha^-ing been riddled by shot from our 
 gunboats, the chimneys and a few upright timbers only 
 remaining, reminding us of an airy and well ventilated 
 building. Obstructions from this point to the city of 
 Richmond are quite frequent, consisting of sunken vessels, 
 and in some instances large piers filled with stone, sunk 
 even with the water's edge are to be seen, with the cur- 
 rent of the river rippling over them, making it at the 
 present time ditHcult for pilots to attempt to pass through 
 them, especially at night. As we approach Richmond, 
 and but a few miles below it, a rebel ram lies upon its 
 side, its deck, ap]>arently made of railroad iron, presenting 
 itself to us as we pass hj, and as we are about to make 
 our landing at tlie wharf, the wreck of a very large iron- 
 clad, the Virginia, which was hh.wii uj) at the time the 
 
36 
 
 rebels evacuated Riclimond, its hull and inacliinery a 
 mass of wreck and ruin, still lies in the position left by 
 them after the explosion. Just previous to landing, an 
 officer recorded the names of all the passengers, place of 
 residence, and their business to Richmond. Wlien we 
 came to the landing, which bears the name of " The 
 Rocketts," we soon found our way on shore, and while 
 waiting for the Alderman to secui-e us a conveyance to 
 the hotel, an elderly contraband accosted one of our 
 party with, " Massa, shall I tote your baggage ?" to 
 which he rephed that he would " tote " his own baggage, 
 when our sable friend retired in disgust. We had now 
 taken Richmond in earnest, and the next thought was 
 " What shall we do with it T for it seemed very like an 
 elephant, when our musings were abruptly interrupted 
 by the appearance of the Alderman with an omnibus, or 
 we should say, an apology for one, but we had no choice 
 but to make ourselves as comfortable as possil)le, and ac- 
 cepted the apology. It was now about six o'clock in the 
 evening of Saturday, and as we rode along towards the 
 hotel, objects of interest were pointed out to us by a very 
 clever Ohio Quartermaster General. A large barge was 
 lying in the canal, with its sign in large letters near the 
 bow, " U. S. Sanitary Commission," its deck covered 
 with crutches, while tin cups, blankets, boxes and barrels 
 could be seen through its windows ; then the Libby 
 Prison with its sign painted in large letters, so that he 
 who ran might read ; Castle Thunder also bore its name 
 in a similar-looking distinctly lettered board, both of 
 which had been recently placed upon them. Next came 
 the walls of the ruins of the late fire, resembling very 
 
much that of our own ofrcat fii-e of May 10th, 1862, 
 which did not attract our particulai- attention from the 
 fact that we were all too familial- with such scenes. We 
 were set down at the Spotswood House, a steel engraving 
 of which faces the title page. This hotel was destroyed 
 by fire on the night of Christmas, 1S70, a description of 
 which appeared in the daily paj^ers of that date. The 
 rooms occu]»ie(l ])y most of our ]»arty were on the northwest 
 corner of the fifth story. As we entered the oftice we could 
 not help noticing the uniforms of the rebel and Union sol- 
 diers as they passed and re-passed, while occasionally some 
 of them might be observed enjoying a (juiet tete-a-tete. 
 
 After tea the gentlemen of our party proceeded to the 
 oftice, where we found boys selling Confederate money 
 put up in one hundred dollar packages, for fifty cents, or 
 one-half cent on the dollar. We invested a few green- 
 backs of the fifty cent denomination, and stuft'ed our de- 
 pleted poeketbooks with the legal-tenders of the Confed- 
 erate persuasion.. 
 
 Two of our party, on learning our friend Merriam's 
 residence, started for his headquarters, and were not long 
 in discovering his wdiereabouts. We found him the same 
 jolly, good-natm-ed, jovial individual he always appeared 
 to be while conducting one of our city journals before 
 the war. We found him engaged, and promising him 
 another \'isit on the following morning, returned to our 
 hotel. 
 
 We met several Trojans, some military and others civ- 
 ilians. The latter, like ourselves, had come to see the 
 sights, while the former were there on duty. Mr. Gale 
 
 visited the billiard saloon in the basement of the Spots- 
 6 
 
38 
 
 ^^'Ood Hotel, and ])laved a couple of t^ames with a stran- 
 ger there. After he had finislied playing, we asked him 
 what they charged a game for the use of the tables, to 
 wdiich he replied he did not know, but referred us to 
 the stranger, who was paying the score at the other end 
 of tlie table. 
 
 After writing to our friends at home, and enclosing 
 several hundred dollars of the rebel emission, being part 
 of our recent purchases, we retired to our rooms, to pre- 
 pare for our visit, on the following day, to the principal 
 points of interest in and about Richmond. Our rooms 
 were located in the first story as we descend from the 
 balcony on the roof. 
 
 In the morning we arose quite refreshed, and after 
 having secured our breakfast, began our observations. 
 The first thing that attracted our attention was the ab- 
 sence of glass from every window sash in the house, 
 and the besmeared and blackened appearance of the 
 walls throughout the entire building. Upon inquiry we 
 learned that at the time of the blowing up of the rebel 
 rams, and the explosion of the ammunition at the State 
 Armory and elsewhere in and about the city, hardly a 
 house escaped having the glass in its windows more or 
 less shattered. What astonished us more than all was 
 that up to the present time there was not a box of glass 
 to be had in all the city. The consequence was that 
 with every di'iving storm the rain would beat into the 
 rooms thus exposed, and the halls and rooms would be 
 flooded with water, Mdiich would soak through the floors 
 and ceilings, giving them the appearance referred to. 
 
 We now set out, and our first visit was to the late 
 
39 
 
 rebel Capitol, which we approached through the side 
 gate. Just as you enter between the gate and the State 
 House, is Crawford's statue of Washington, which is said 
 to be thirty feet in height, and is pronounced the Unest 
 equestrian statue in this country. Washington is seated 
 on his horse, feeing the south, his left hand grasping the 
 reins, his right arm extended, pointing to the south. 
 Immediately beneath the statue and surrounding it, are 
 six pedestals, three of which are occupied respectively 
 by statues of Patrick Henry, Mason and Jetferson ; the 
 other three would have been occupied, we presume, had 
 the rebels been successful, by Jeff. DaAis and some of his 
 cotemporaries. At a short distance, and in the same 
 grounds, is a life-size, full-length, white marble statue of 
 Henry Clay, enclosed in an iron railing, co\'ered over 
 with a circular roof to protect it from the weather. It is 
 an excellent likeness of the original, but looks a little 
 antiquated, dressed as it is in a swallow-tailed coat. The 
 right hand of the statue is minus one linger. 
 
 We then visited the State House, lately used by the 
 rebel Senators and Kepresentatives as the capitol of the 
 so-called Confederate States of Amei-ica. We approach 
 it by a flight of stone steps, in front of which is stationed 
 a guard of soldiers. As we reached the landing, our eyes 
 beheld one of the dirtiest looking halls we ever entered. 
 Confusion worse confounded presented itself. We made 
 our way through the crowd to the hall of the House of 
 Representatives, and here the climax of poverty in re- 
 gard to furniture and carpets was to ])e seen. We were 
 informed that everything remained just as it was left bv 
 the reljcls with the exception of the Speaker's chair, 
 
40 
 
 wliich had been divested of its covering by the curious, 
 and now presented a dismal looking mass of curled hair. 
 One of our party seated himself upon its ruins, and 
 while there secured a lock of the hair from beneath it, 
 which he managed to secrete in one of his capacious 
 pockets. Any attempt to describe the utterly dilapi- 
 dated appearance of the hall would be futile. It must 
 be seen to be appreciated. The Senate Chamber was 
 closed to visitors. We were allowed, however, to look 
 through the sash, and see it just as it was left by that 
 body at the time they evacuated it. We observed in 
 the halls several cases of paper of English manufacture, 
 some of which were opened, which furnished us evidence 
 of British neutrality. 
 
 After doing the State House, we next proceeded to 
 the quarters of the " Herald " establishment, presided 
 over by our townsman, Major Wm. H. Merriam, and his 
 faithful dog Pepper. The Major received us with that 
 cordiality for which he is justly celebrated by all his 
 friends who have paid him a visit. He kindly proposed 
 to furnish us with ambulances, with which we might 
 visit the most important localities in and about the city. 
 After an hour or more spent in listening to his hair- 
 breadth escapes and humoi-ous as well as instructive con- 
 versation, our ambulances came up to the door, and we 
 set out upon our explorations. 
 
 Our first visit was to the notorious Castle Thunder, 
 where so many of our prisoners were crowded into dark 
 and damp dungeons, to starve and die by slow torture 
 and cruelty at the hands of their keepers, and at the in- 
 stance and with the knowledge of the rebel authorities. 
 
41 
 
 "W^e gave this building but a hurried and cursory exami- 
 nation, it being occupied by but few prisoners and these 
 were principally deserters and bounty-jumpers from our 
 own army. In one room we observed shackles, hand- 
 cuffs, and balls and chains, used by the rebels upon some 
 of our men while confined there, which made our blood 
 curdle in our veins to behold. 
 
 From there we visited the loathsome Libby Prison, 
 which at this time contained but two prisoners, Colonels 
 Ould and Hatch of the rebel army. The crime for 
 which they were incarcerated was that of robbing our 
 prisoners of money and clothing sent to them by their 
 northern friends, while confined there. The money they 
 appropriated to their own use, and the clothing and ar- 
 ticles of food were either sold or given to the rebel com- 
 missioners for their own half-starved army. They oc- 
 cupied a large room in the third story, and by peering 
 through a crack in their door, and sticking our finger 
 through the paper they had placed against it, we could 
 see them in a i-ecliuing position, reading, unconscious 
 that we were looking at them. On entering this prison 
 we were told by the guard that we could not visit certain 
 portions of it, which only increased our desire to do so, 
 and here again the Alderman, who never despaired of 
 accomplishing his purpose when he once set about it in 
 earnest, suborned a sergeant, and invited him to go 
 through the building and point out to us all its wonders, 
 of which we had heard and desired to see. lie accord- 
 ingly went with us through the building, and showed us, 
 in the cellar, where Col. Straight and about one hundred 
 others escaped through the wall, and then under the 
 
42 
 
 street into an adjoining yard, by tlie way of tlieir tmmel, 
 made during many a long and tedious night. On the 
 same floor Avas the, cell of the notorious Dick Turner, the 
 turnkey of the Lil^hy, who it is said by some escaped 
 through the window of his cell by removing one of the 
 ])ei'pendicular iron rods that were in front of it. Some, 
 however, assert, with a knowing leer, that he will never 
 be heard of again. He is gone, at all events, and his 
 bedding and part of his clothing still remain on the floor, 
 just as he left it at the time of his departure. The floor 
 of this cellar is paved with cobble stone, and the dirt re- 
 moved from the tunnel made by Col. Straight and his 
 party, had been carefully scattered over its surface and 
 trampled down so as not to excite the suspicion of the 
 guard. It was ingeniously planned and successfully car- 
 ried out, as the accounts of it published at the time fully 
 show. The only comfortable article of necessity in the 
 whole building was a plentiful supply of water, every- 
 thing else being of the most disgusting character. 
 
 Our authorities were engaged in cleaning the build- 
 ing from cellar to garret, and such a mass of filth as was 
 heaped up on the street in front of this building was 
 sickening to l)otli sight and smell, remnants of old cloth- 
 ing, shoes and rags forming a large proportion. In tlie 
 buDding were scores of Union soldiers, visiting it, and a 
 large majority of them were engaged in splitting ofi' 
 from the doors or the upright posts supporting the floors 
 large pieces of them as relics from their once prison 
 home. AV^e were shown a place where one of our own 
 soldiers was confined for nearly a year ; it was under a 
 small stairway, where the ceiling was so low that he 
 
43 
 
 could not stand upright. We secured, by the aid of a 
 soldier s jack-knife, a piece of the door leading to this cell, 
 arid before we left the l)uilding the entire door was 
 tlirown down, and was being divided among the eager 
 chip-hunters. We were fortunate in securing the services 
 of the Sergeant, for we were enabled to visit the entire 
 building, with the exception of tlie room occupied by 
 Colonels Quid and Hatch, (^u cur departuiv we thanked 
 our worthy cicerone, and we saw one of our party show- 
 ing: him some of our new currenev, leaving him to exam- 
 ine it at his leisure. 
 
 Our next Ansit was to the recent residence of the 
 late President of the C(Uifederate Stales of America, 
 at present the headquarters of General Tlalleck. On 
 entering, we were told by the Sergeant stationed at the 
 door that we could only visit the reception rooms of the 
 late President, and that we must not go upon the back 
 piazza. We walked into the main room, so recently oc- 
 cupied by Jeff. Davis, President, and which was in the 
 same state as left by him, the fiirniture the same precisely. 
 We sat in his chairs, lounged on his sofiis, and viewed 
 our noble selves in the same mirror on the chinmey piece. 
 The furniture was covered with i-icli brocatelle, but in 
 other respects everything was of a plain, sul)stantial char- 
 acter. We lool-ed out upon the i)iazza and into the gar- 
 den, but saw nothing to wari'aut their forbidding ns to 
 put our foot into it. 
 
 Here President Lincoln lii'ld his levee while on his 
 ^^8it to this place, wliicli brought to our minds the fears 
 entertained at that time of the possibiw^of his assassi- 
 nation before he left, fears which found their fulfillment 
 
44 
 
 in his assassination soon after reaching his home in Wash- 
 ington. 
 
 From this point we visited the cemetery, very pleas- 
 antly located, on the outskirts of the city. No carriages 
 were allowed in the grounds, unless on funeral occasions, 
 so we left our ambulances and strolled about the walks. 
 We came across the tomb of President Monroe, which 
 was by far the most elaborate tomb we saw in the grounds. 
 A little to the right was the resting place of John Tyler, 
 of " Tippecanoe and Tyler too" fame. No tomb or head 
 stone marks the spot where rests the remains of the 
 former President. It is distinguished by a deal board 
 fence, painted white, enclosing a single grave, and is 
 pointed out to strangers as the grave of John Tylei'. In 
 this enclosure there is a solitary rose bush, bearing a 
 green rose, and one of our party secured one full blown 
 from it, as the first of the kind he had ever seen. 
 
 From this point we have a good view of Manchester, 
 on the opposite side of the river, now only accessible from 
 this side by a pontoon bridge, the long bridge havmg 
 been burned at the time of the evacuation by Lee's army. 
 The piers alone are standing, monuments of the ungrate- 
 fulness of their own people. 
 
 Belle Isle, another slaughter-pen of Union prisoners, 
 lies out before us, near the middle of which is a white 
 board fence, enclosing perhaps an acre of ground, where 
 so many of our brave soldiers found a resting-place, being 
 released by death from the terrible sufferings endured at 
 that place. 
 
 We retrace our steps, again take our aml)ulances, and 
 ride down towards the Tredegar Iron Works, of which 
 
45 
 
 we heard so much iu connection witli the mauutacture of 
 munitions of war for the rebels, wliich remain unharmed, 
 and appear to he very tine and sul»stantial l)uihUngs. 
 
 Innnediately nortli of these works are seen the ruins of 
 the Virginia State Armory, wliich resembled somewhat 
 the ruins of the Union Depot after our great fire of May, 
 18()2. covering about the same space. At the time it was 
 fired, it was filled with aniuiunition, and its bursting 
 shells filled tlie inhabitants with terror, as explosion fol- 
 lowed explosion in rapid succession. Just before the re- 
 bellion broke out, the Meneely Brothers hung a large bell 
 in the tower of this building, and one of them informed 
 us that up to tlie ])resent time they had not received its 
 equivalent from these higli-toned chi\ah-ous F. F. Y.'s. 
 
 We now proceeded to take a look at some of the prom- 
 inent residences, and rode through the principal streets. 
 We passed by the house occupied by Gren. Lee, and here 
 we will merely mention that our ladies occupied the 
 handsome amindance formerly owned by the General, 
 which was captured at the time of his surrender, and is 
 now in the possession of our officers and used for their 
 benefit. 
 
 We now left our ladies at the hotel, and proceeded to 
 Major Merriam's headquarters, to thank him for his kind- 
 ness and deliver up our ambulances. We learned he had 
 just retired for his usual nap about this time in the day, 
 so we wended our way back to the hotel, having finished 
 Richmond in the short space of a few hours. 
 
 While waiting in the office of the hotel, Mr. (^ale was 
 accosted l)y the son of a formei- postmaster of Troy. 
 Recognizing Mr. Gale, he introduced himself, and was 
 
46 
 
 ill turn iiitrt^diu'od to otlier niein])ers of our pai'tv. He 
 iiitoriu('(| us tliat lie liad l)eeii iu tlic rehel service ever 
 since tlu' r('Iii'Ili(^ii liroke out, in some capacity or other, 
 and liis full suit of ii;ray uniform was evidence enough 
 that he had recently been engag-ed in some position in 
 their service. In alluding to the war he invariably used 
 the terms, ''youi- army,'' and '' oui' army," showing to us 
 conclusixely that his sympathies were still M'ith the sub- 
 jugated and whipped section. We became disgusted with 
 his convei'sation, and two of us left him abi'uptly for the 
 tea-tal)le, which was ready for us. We did not mince 
 our words when talking to the rebels whom we met, 
 but were as free in the expression of our views as 
 if we had been in the streets of Troy, and without the 
 least apprehension on our part of being garroted or dis- 
 turbed by them. We could not help thinking how difter- 
 ent would have been our case had we used such expres- 
 sions a sliort month previous. 
 
 Mr. Spencer \4sited the Zion M. E. Church in the eve-' 
 ning, unaccompanied by any of our party, and his de- 
 scription of what he saw, which is given below, is worthy 
 of a place in this connection in our journal. 
 
 Much had been said during the rebellion on the mat- 
 ter of "tiring the Southern heart."" This was specially the 
 case after some important Union \ictory on the field, or 
 •when it was apparent that ''the cause" \\as losing gnumd 
 in the esteem of their o\\n ])coi)le. TiuMi it was that the 
 leaders saAV the necessity of fanning the tlame by appeal- 
 ing to the passions to keep up the hot blood of rebellion. 
 In Richmond, the place of meeting generally selected for 
 this purpose was the Zion Methodist Episcopal African 
 
47 
 
 Church. So frequently had reports of meetings of this 
 nature been made in our Nortliern papers, tliat it had 
 been ahnost impressed on the mind that this partieuhir 
 church contained in itself some electrical powei- to "tire 
 the heart." It was proposed, therefore, by some of our 
 party, on Sabbath morning-, that in the evening' we attend 
 ser^^cein this famous place. As the day advanced, how- 
 ever, other and more important matters presented them- 
 selves, so that this was forgotten. AVhen the hour for 
 starting arrived, Mr. Spencer eudea\ored to tiud some 
 who were ready to go. Only the Alderman could be 
 found, and he was so pleasantly engaged in comersation 
 with the ladies in the parlor that it seemed ungallant to 
 interrupt the meeting. Mr. Spencer, however, j-esohed to 
 start out alone ; but where to find the place, or in what 
 direction to go, lie Avas utterly at a loss to know. Not 
 one out of the many applied to at the Spotswood were 
 able or willing to give the information. Not being dis- 
 posed to give up the project, he started out. 
 
 After going a short distance, he met a couple of col- 
 ored women, mother and daughter, of whom he made 
 in«iuiries. It was really amusing to see, even in these 
 women, the apparent simple ignorance of everything 
 asked of them, until they had satisfied themselves that it 
 was friends with whom they were talking. Satisfied of 
 this, they M'ould suddenly discover that they knew all 
 about what you asked. ''Lor a bless your soul, massa ! 
 yes," they would exclaim, and then answei- your (|U(stion. 
 It was so amusing, that before he readied the chnrcli he 
 interrogated a number of colored peoj.le, ohl and voung, 
 whom he met, and in every instance the same kind of 
 
48 
 
 shrewdness was manifested. The church was quite a 
 long distance from the hotel, but was finally reached, and 
 then for the first time the thought of getting back home 
 safely after the sendee, occurred. There were strong in- 
 dications of rain, and the whole atmosphere foretold a 
 severe storm. After the great efibrt made to see this fa- 
 mous place, Mr. Spencer determined also to witness the 
 services of the evening. 
 
 The edifice is large, built in the form of a cross, with a 
 deep gallery, and altogether capable of seating a large 
 congregation. The place was well filled, principally of 
 course with colored people, but quite a number of Union 
 soldi'ers came in and took seats in difterent parts of the 
 house. Everything was conducted with the utmost de- 
 corum. A minister from Maryland, who was totally 
 l)lind, preached. He went through the forai of reading 
 the Scriptures and giving out the hymns, as though he 
 had perfect eyesight. The sermon was, so far as theology 
 was concerned, quite deep and profound, so much so that 
 at least one of the audience was (piite at a loss to com- 
 prehend it. His counsel to his colored brethren, how- 
 ever, more than made up for what was dark in theology. 
 He spoke of the changed condition of their relation to 
 society ; how they were now thro^\■n upon their own re- 
 sources ; what were their privileges, and what the coun- 
 try would expect of them ; advising them, first of all, to 
 be loyal to their country, peaceful towards all, industrious 
 and temperate in their habits, and strive for improvement 
 in intellectual attainments, so that the time for their ele- 
 vation as citizens might not be far distant. The entire 
 services were interesting, and the singing particularly fine. 
 
49 
 
 Being seated near tlie door, Mr. Spencer was for some 
 time annoyed by a low M-liispering behind him, and be- 
 coming tired of it, turned to ascertain what was the 
 cause. There sat two fine looking contrabands, one of 
 whom it appeared, by his own engagement, was to have 
 been married that evening, the second Sunday in the 
 month, but he himself thought the next Sabbath was the 
 appointed time, until corrected by his friend. This was 
 the cause of the disjjute. Appealing to a third person 
 for a decision as to the date of the month, Arc, it was de- 
 cided against him, when the poor fellow seemed com- 
 pletely cast down ; — what would his betrothed think of 
 him '{ 
 
 The sermon being tinished, and there being unmis- 
 takable indications that the storm was about to fall, Mr. 
 Spencer thought it best to make his way back to the 
 hotel. On gaining the street a darkness indescribable 
 was found to exist. After' leaving the church, not a light 
 was to be seen, and not knowing the way, he was obliged 
 to stop and wait for a flash of lightning to be guided a 
 few steps, and then wait a repetition. Owing to the 
 deep darkness, and an utter ignorance of the streets, he 
 wandered quite out of the way, which was not pleasant, 
 especially when the fact was recalled to mind that it was 
 not an unfrequent thing to see reported a dead Yankee's 
 being found in the streets in the morning. Two things, 
 however, (piieted his fears in a measure ; flrst, that it was 
 so dark that he could not well be told from a flrst-rate 
 rebel, and second, he was well armed with a good re- 
 volver, (the revolver being safely stowed away in a car- 
 j)et bag at the hotel.) The Spotswood was safely reached 
 
50 
 
 at last, and if ever there was inward rejoicing, it was in 
 this case. 
 
 Soon after tea we repaired to our rooms, where we 
 spent the evening in writing home, and preparing for an 
 earlj start for Wilson's Landing. At four o'clock on the 
 following morning we were awakened by the servant, for 
 tlie boat, and we prepared to bid adieu to the late rebel 
 Capital. At six o'clock we wei-e at the Rocketts again, 
 and here in a rain storm we were obliged to pass through 
 the Provost Marshal's office and register our names and 
 places of residence ; after which, passing through a side 
 door, we found ourselves upon a Mdiarf leading to the 
 steamer. While passing along towards the City Point 
 boat, one of the ci'ew of the Ironsides hailed us, saying 
 the General had sent her up for us. We had just time 
 to get Mr. Tuthill from the other boat Ijefore she left. 
 We then proceeded on board the Ironsides, witli our 
 faithful Captain Yanderveer, and all felt as if we were 
 at home again. We started at once, passing down the 
 James, and re-viewing the obstructions with eager in- 
 terest. We reached Wilson's Wharf in time for dinner, 
 for which we were all prepared. After dinner, General 
 Carr, Mr. Gale, Mr. Kemp and the ladies, took the am- 
 bulances and rode over to and around the fort, while 
 Tuthill and Young retired for a little rest, both being- 
 very much fatigued. 
 
 Here I propose to relate a few incidents that occurred 
 at the General's headquarters at different times during 
 our visit, which were so different fi-om the ordinary busi- 
 ness transactions of civil life, that it may be interesting 
 
51 
 
 to recall them. At one time, a ladv, her daughter, and 
 a colored servant once their slave, came to the General to 
 reclaim a mule, wliich our forces had contiseated on one 
 of their raids. The first question asked her hy the (Jen- 
 eral was, " have you taken the oath of allegiance V to 
 which she replied that she had not. The General, point- 
 ing to the Provost Marshal's office, informed her that it 
 would t)e necessary to take the oath hefore he could do 
 auvthing t(*\var(ls restoring her undo, stating at the same 
 time that she was not obliged to do so — that the act was 
 voluntary. She stepped aside with her daughter,, and 
 they discussed the snbject by themselves, and started 
 for the Provost Marshal's otHec. In a few moments they 
 returned with the necessary paper, and the mother said 
 she would now take the mule, when the General asked 
 her if she had taken the oath ; she said her daughter had, 
 but the General informed her it would be necessai-y for 
 her to take it, as she claimed the nude, and she could not 
 have it uidess she did. Another tete a tete between 
 mother aud daughter, and off they started a second time 
 for the Pi-ovost Marshal. During all this parleying the 
 colored girl stood near the stoop apparently extremely 
 pleased at her own thoughts, when Mr. Kemp asked her 
 name. She replied ''Sara Ami." lie remarked that she 
 seemed pleased at souiething she saw or lieard, and in- 
 (juired what it was. ''Lor, Massa, I was tinkiug what a 
 bitter ])ill it was for ole Missus to take dat oat, for oh, 
 how Missus hates dat oat, and Pse so glad she has got to 
 take it/' and then she smik'd au(hbly, a la African, in 
 which we all joined. Au<l now "ole Missus" came 
 back armed with the paper shesodreaded to execute, but 
 
52 
 
 it was mule or no mule, and she thus secured him. That 
 lady was the owner of sixteen hundred acres of land in 
 that vicinity, and when she came into the (xeneral's 
 quarters she brought one dozen eggs, and wished to ex- 
 change them for twenty-tive cents worth of sugar, which 
 exchange she effected with Mrs. Carr, and when about 
 to leave she asked the (ieneral if he had an old coffee- 
 pot about his quarters that he M'ould give her. Such is 
 the case with most of those residing in that vicinity, 
 arising from their secession 2:)roclivities. At another 
 time an old white-haired man, Mr. Ferguson, came to see 
 the General in relation to a silver comnnmion service, 
 which he had understood the (ireneral had possession of, 
 and which he wished to reclaim for the Parish of AVest- 
 over. Gen. Carr had learned but a few weeks before 
 that one of the captains in his camp was using a silver 
 goblet he had obtained of a contraband for drinking his 
 whiskey from, and immediately ordered the captain to 
 send it to him, which order was duly conq)lied with, 
 when it was found to be part of the connnunion plate 
 formerly used by Westover Parish. The (General in- 
 formed some of the neighbors that he had such pieces of 
 silver-ware in his possession, and this old gentleman came 
 to ascertain if it was the property of his Parish. It was 
 brought out and shown him, when he grasped the goblet, 
 at once recognizing it, saying at the same time that he 
 had often prayed that he might once more grasp the 
 sacred emblem, and restore it to the })arish, as it was 
 placed in his keeping at the time he felt it his duty to 
 fly from our apj)roaching army. He said the clergyman 
 of the parish called upon him with the vessels, and stated 
 
53 
 
 tliat lie was about to leave for Richmond, and wished 
 him to take charge of them until such time as they could 
 be restored to their proper place, upon the restoration of 
 peace. He at first declined to accept the trust, but upon 
 being persistently pressed, he finally agi^eed to do the best 
 he coidd. Pie immediately went out to his barn with 
 them, put them up in a box securely, as he thought, and 
 placed the box in a hole dug under the barn, and left 
 them there, fervently praying they might one day l)e re- 
 stored to their former place. Soon after this occurred he 
 was arrested by the Union forces, and sent to Point Look- 
 out, for his rebel proclivities. There he remained nearly 
 a year, as a prisoner, and he said that during the whole 
 time he was in our hands he was kindly treated, and 
 when he was allowed to leave for his home, had it not 
 been for his six motherless daughters who needed his 
 care, he would have regretted leaving so comfortable a 
 home and so many pleasant acquaintances as he had made. 
 We each examined the ser\nce, comprising but two pieces, 
 and on each piece wefound engraved, in plain letters, of 
 the old style : " Presented to the Parish of "Westover by 
 Colonel Frans' Lightfoot, 1Y27." They were of solid 
 silver, the goblet being ten or twelve inches high, and 
 the plate about eight inches in diameter. He appeared 
 wonderfully pleased upon obtaining possession of them 
 again, and was profuse in his thanks to the General for 
 their preservation and restoration. 
 
 As it had now become generally known among the in- 
 habitants in that immediate vicinity that the General and 
 his army were about to evacuate this post, they came 
 
 flocking in to see him, with claims for their property held 
 
 8 
 
54 
 
 by liiin aud liis officers. Some with claims for furniture, 
 bedding, horses, mules, carts, and indeed everythint^ that 
 had been gobbled up by our army as they passed over 
 the country. One of the officers had a piano in his 
 quarters ; that, too, had its claimant. The Quartermaster 
 had a fine little l)lood horse, that he liad secured and used 
 for his own purposes, and had him well cared for, so that 
 it had l)ecome quite a pet of his. One evening a long, 
 lank, whiskey-visaged individual, wearing a very coarse 
 straw hat, came into camp, stating that he had a claim for 
 a horse that formerly belonged to him, and that he 
 wished to prove the property and reclaim him. The 
 General told him to describe the horse, stating his age 
 and all he knew about him, which description was some- 
 thing like this : he was nine years old, of a dark bay 
 color, with an imperfection in one eye, and was a little 
 vicious withal. The only horse in camp that answered 
 to his description was the one referred to above, of the 
 Quartermaster's. So he was sent for, and brought up be- 
 fore the General's quarters, when an old contraband was 
 called upon to state the age and quahties of the animal. 
 lie gave his age as seven years ; was told to look again, 
 which he did, and gave the same answer. He was then 
 asked which eye was injured or imperfect. He grasped 
 the horse by the nostrils, looked him steadily in one eye, 
 and passed his clenched list near it, opening his hand just 
 as he passed it by the eye. The same operation was per- 
 formed with the other eye, when he pronomiced him 
 sound on the eye in all respects, the claimant all the while 
 gaping and listening, with an occasional wag of his head. 
 The General weighed the testimony in his mind, and 
 
55 
 
 decided that tliis was not liis liorse, and ordered him back 
 to the stables, while the claimant went away, muttering 
 to himself and friend that that was his horse anyhow. 
 
 Such was the character of many of the claims that 
 now poured in upon General Carr; he decided their cases 
 promptly, and if the evidence was conclusive, and they 
 had taken the prescribed oath, their j^roperty was innne- 
 diately handed over to them. 
 
 We now began our preparations for our departure 
 and on Tuesday morning we gathered our relics together 
 in the Quartermaster's quarters, consisting of old muskets, 
 shot and pieces of shell, bayonets, and such other relics as 
 we had collected, and piling them together in a heap, the 
 General ordered a box made large enough to contain the 
 whole of them, which after bemg packed and secured 
 with iron straps, was forwarded by express to one of our 
 party at Troy. 
 
 The General had telegi-aphed, the evening before, for 
 the City Point boat to stop at Fort Pocahontas for us on 
 her way down to Fortress Monroe, on Tuesday morning. 
 The telegraphing was by means of the army signals, 
 which is done during the day by the use of a flag, and at 
 nif>:ht with a flaming torch. The distance from this Fort 
 to City Point was about thirty miles, and in order to 
 have the line of communication complete. Gen. Butler 
 had caused the trees on the direct line to be cut away so 
 as not to interfere witli the signals. Viewing, from the 
 top of the tower at the Fort, the line thus cut through 
 the woods, (which is about four miles long,) it had the 
 ap])earance of a canal, and seemed as straight as a line 
 could be drawn, and ai)parently flfty feet wide, although 
 
56 
 
 it must have been twice and perhaps three times that 
 width. 
 
 We had hardly finished packing our box, when we 
 were notified that the boat was in sight that was to break 
 up our visit with the General and his family, civil and 
 military. We lost no time in wending our way to the 
 landing, and stepping on board the faithful Ironsides we 
 put out into the stream. Meeting the boat there we 
 transferred ourselves and baggage on board, in a very 
 short time, bidding our friends a reluctant good-bye, and 
 in a few minutes we left Wilson's Landing behind us, 
 never more to see it again with that company, in all human 
 probability. The General's dog, Molly, accompanied us 
 on the Ironsides, and as soon as the boats came together, 
 jumped on board the Fortress Monroe boat, and it was 
 with some difficulty that it was secured and returned 
 again, and then only at the last moment. 
 
 We found the officers of the boat very gentlemanly, 
 and we were provided with good acconnnodations. The 
 day was beautiful, and we amused ourselves with viewing 
 again the peculiar localities along the river, made memor- 
 able by their former history and their connection with re- 
 cent events during the M^ar. We reached Fortress Mon- 
 roe about 4 o'clock, where we were told we would have 
 to wait from one to two hours for the boat from Norfolk 
 for Baltimore. So we passed on shore, and there we 
 learned that Jefl". Davis had arrived only the day before, 
 and was at that time safely ensconced in a casemate of 
 the Fort. We visited the Fort only so far as to look into 
 the moat, about thirty feet wide and some twelve feet 
 deep, immediately in front of the angular wall, where, 
 
57 
 
 upon the outer end of a Ijridge leading to a sally-port was 
 stationed a guard whose instructions were not to let any 
 person enter without a proper pass from the commanding 
 officer. Not having the necessary document at our dis- 
 posal, we retraced our steps in search of some strawber- 
 ries, which we were not long in procuring from an old 
 Amazonian wench, who supplied us with a saucer of 
 cream and berries, for twenty-live cents each, which were 
 despatched in a hurry. She gave us a vivid description 
 of Jefi*. Davis's march from the river to the Fortress, 
 through the principal thoroughfare, with a chuck-chuck- 
 chuck, as she described it, suiting the action to the word. 
 
 After examining the main stores on the wharf, and 
 takmg a hasty survey of the vicinity, we made our way 
 to the landing, and in a few minutes the steamer from 
 Norfolk was reported in sight, and shortly after arrived. 
 We were not long in finding our way on board, and the 
 Alderman proceeded at once to the Captain's office to 
 secure staterooms for our party, which proved to be a 
 more difficult matter- than was anticipated. They were 
 secured, however, and our party were under many obliga- 
 tions to the })erseverance of the Alderman for his success 
 in obtaining them, for it is doubtful whether another one 
 of the party woidd have succeeded as well as he did, in 
 securing rooms for us all. 
 
 After securing our tea, which was the next tiling in 
 order, we found it was becoming dai-k and we were well 
 on our way up the bay for Baltimore. We all sought 
 our staterooms at an early hour, and awoke nu Wednes- 
 day morning at the Baltimoi'c wharf 
 
 Here it was decided our party should dinhdml, or in 
 
68 
 
 other words sejoarate, as Messrs. Gale and Yoimg deter- 
 mined to visit Washington and witness the grand re\'iew 
 of Sherman's army which was to take place that day, 
 while the rest of the party would sj^end part of the day 
 in Baltimore, and visit Philadelj)hia in the evening. 
 
 Messrs. Gale and Young proceeded to the Eutaw 
 House, got their breakfast and took the early train for 
 Washington, arriving there about nine o'clock. Much to 
 their surprise, they found that the head of the column, 
 with General Sherman, had commenced moving at eight 
 o'clock and had consequently reached a point outside the 
 city. It is useless here to attempt a description of the 
 remainder of the fifty thousand men that passed up the 
 avenue. Sutiice it to say that from eight o'clock in the 
 morning until three o'clock in the afternoon it had not 
 all passed any one given point, and they were still com- 
 ing when we took the cars for Baltimore at that time, for 
 we were satisfied that Washington was no place for us to 
 stop in, hungry and weary as we were. Sullivan's Band, 
 of our own city, M'as among and a part of the procession 
 on that occasion. 
 
 We reached Baltimore in time to take the night train 
 of the same day (Wednesday), for New York, and ha^^ng 
 secured a good meal near the depot, we took our seats in 
 the cars, and made preparations for a night's lodging 
 under weary circumstances. 
 
 We omitted to mention that we visited the Capitol at 
 Washington; it being our first visit to that memoral)le 
 city, we of course could not leave it until we had paid 
 our respects to that wonderful piece of architecture. We 
 had formed some idea of the magnificence of the build- 
 
59 
 
 ing-, bnt we iievci" read any description that gave us an 
 idea of the wonderful structure, or that would compare 
 with our observations of it. Its marble halls and stair- 
 eases sur]>asscd anything that we had ever conceived of. 
 The RotuiuLu with its historical paintings, and dome still 
 in an unfinished state, was marvellous in our eyes. In 
 fact w^e were lost in admiration of its grandeur, and we 
 left it, promising ourselves another \asit at a time when 
 we could devote more leisure to its examination. 
 
 We reached New York about six o'clock on Thursday 
 moniiug, after a night of very questionable rest, and at 
 once proceeded to take the cars for our homes. 
 
 In due time our whole party reached their homes in 
 safety, and many a time and oft have we met and recalled 
 the pleasant visit on the James, so full of incident and in- 
 terest, never to be forgotten by us, but ever alluded to as 
 an excursion for which we all feel greatly indebted to our 
 fellow citizen. General Carr, and his estimable lady. 
 
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