'iSii^HH<; 1 * .««.•« ftt^ j^gm/Mt^ ^\ wB^m^^J t^' 3Sr lA )A^ i:,) • Class _^B_i:^S Rook ■3^') GopyrightN". CfiCXRICHX DEPOSm THE MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN THE MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN BY IDA D. BENNETT Author of "The Flower Garden," ''The Vegetable Garden,'' etc. WITH FOUR DIAGRA^fS AND SIXTEEN ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS NEW YORK FREDERICK A. STOKES COMPANY PUBLISHERS Copyright, 1919, by Fbederick a. Stokes Company All Rights Reserved uLl -8 ^^'i:^ S)0IA535171 CONTENTS CHAPTER^ PAGE I. The Location — with Plans ... 1 II. Soil and Fertilizers 15 III. Hotbeds 21 IV. Coldframes, Flats, and Open Ground Planting 37 V. The Annual Garden — with Table of Annuals . , 48 VI. Bedding Plants from Seed ... 58 VII . Bulbs for Summer Blooming ... 65 VIII. Plants for Various Situations . . 82 IX. The Amateur's Rose Garden . . . 101 X. Window and Porch Boxes . . . 109 XI. Vines for Every Place .... 116 XII. The Rock Garden 129 XIII. The Water Garden 135 XIV. The Old-fashioned Garden . . . 145 XV. Hardy Shrubs and Trees .... 156 XVI. The Hardy Lily Bed 173 XVII. .Bulbs for Fall Planting . . . . 179 XVIII. Fall Work in the Garden ... 185 XIX. Winter Protection 192 V vi CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE XX. Plant Enemies and Insecticides . . 208 XXI. The Value of a Definite Color Scheme in the Garden; a White, a Red, a Yellow and a Blue Garden, WITH Table of Plants .... 215 XXII. Bird Houses, Natatoriums and Feed- ing Stations 226 Table of Germination of Seeds . . 242 Index 245 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS A small garden full of variety and charm Frontispiece^ FACING FAOB Does this look like a promising garden spot? . 16 The result of a flower lover's work in one year . 16 As a low hedge plant the hydrangea panic ulata is unexcelled 17 A lovely mass of heliotrope, ageratum and tritomas 48 A successful treatment of a triangular space between drives 49 Red and white tulips used as a border for shrub- bery 74* A wide border of hyacinths and pansies . . . 75^ A small back yard devoted to roses .... 102^ A rose arch is a most effective support for climb- ing roses 103' A thrifty window box two months after planting. 124' ' Vines effectively used as porch decoration . . 125 Funkia overhanging a pool planted with water poppies 142 Iris used as a border for a pond 143 A hardy border of larkspur and hollyhocks . . 152 Foxglove planted against a background of shrub- bery 153 vii THE MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN CHAPTER I THE LOCATION Whknt one takes up the subject of the location of a garden one has to consider at tlie start just what ad- vantages are afforded by the piece of ground com- prising one's special domain. If it consists merely of a city lot with its few feet of turf in front and a few square yards of wall-enclosed back yard, the prob- lem will be the simple one of making that little patch of ground as attractive and prolific of bloom and beauty as possible ; and there are harder problems by far than this, though an undeveloped city back yard may look hopeless enough to the uninitiated. The small town lot affords greater advantages, as there is usually considerable space at the side or rear of the dwelling to allow of mass planting about boundaries and often of the laying out of a more or less formal 1 2 I\IAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN garden at one side. This is, of all, the happiest ar- rangement — that the garden shall he so situated as to be visible from the liA'ing-room windows, especially from those occupied by the busy mistress of the home. Usually the home is built and the garden added as an afterthought; this often results in an unfortunate placing, both from a practical and an aesthetic point of view. That the garden should be sufficiently retired from the street to insure priA-acy, and at the same time close enough to the house to become an intimate part of the life of the home, goes without saying. And this is only secured when the garden comes to us, through vistas opened by the friendly windows, so that one may pause from time to time in the day's employment to enjoy its beauty or run out for a mo- ment or two's work among the flowers. A garden that takes one far from the house will not receive the constant intimate attention that is the heritage of the one where odd moments are utilized ; one plans for spare hours in the one, for spare moments in the other. The plans illustrated, while by no means the last word in garden arrangement, should be helpful in planning the small place garden or the arrangement of a city lot. In Plan A the house is centrally located on the lot and both a flower and a vegetable garden are arranged for, with considerable planting of shrubbery about the THE LOCATION 3 base of tlie house and an inviting circle of turf in front of the rear door. The radiating beds of the flower garden are excep- tionally favorable where one wishes to grow a great variety of flowers and shrubs in a restricted area, as low-growing perennials and annuals may occupy the fore part of the beds and larger growths be gradually introduced as the beds recede until, in the rear, they give place to tall shrubs or small ornamental trees. This form of planting greatly increases the apparent extent of the grounds and also serves as a screen for unsightly objects in the rear. The long, straight paths make the care of the beds a simple affair and the number of beds and paths may be regulated accord- ing to the ground at command. A beautiful arrangement of the planting would be to run a triple row of tulips, hyacinths or narcissi along the edges of all the beds and sow English daisy seed, pansies, ageratums or other low-growing plants among them to cover the ground when they are through blooming. On the less sunny borders the lobelias would be beautiful, as would the dwarf morn- ing glories which remain open all day. The tufted pansies are permanent and beautiful border plants, especially the yellow ones, and one can compose very artistic color schemes by using flowers that harmonize with the edging plants in the different beds. Plan B is a much more formal laying out of a city PLAN A Base Planting About House Bloom A. Spiraea Van Houttei May B. Bocconia 7uly-Aug. C. Hydrangea paniculata Aug.-Sept/ BEDil D. Paeonies June E. Shasta Daisies July F. Gladioli Aug.-Sept. X. Auratum and Candidum Lilies June-July Height Color 4' -5' White 5' -8' Flesh color 5' White 18" -2' White, pink.red 18" -2' White 2' -3' Various colors 3' -5' White BED 2 G. Asters H. Nicotiana aflSnis I . Sahdaa J . Forsythias K. Tamarix BEDS L. German Iris M. Foxgloves July-Sept. Aug.-Sept. Aug.-Sept. May May-Sept. May-June June-July N. Deutzia (Pride of Rochester) June BED 4 O. Anthericums May P. Aquilegias June Q. Delphiniums (Gold Medal June-July ^Hybrids) R. Buddleia variabilis July. 18" -2' Various colors 2' -3' White.rose.etc. 2' -5' Scarlet 8' Yellow 8'-12' Pink 2' -3' All colors 2' -4' White, rose, purple 6' -8' White 18" -2' White 2' All colors 2' -6' Blue, white 6' Violet PLAN B Bl,OOM B. Pool infeardcn; plant Water June-frost Lilies X. Trellia in rear— Ampelopsis June-froat tricolor XX. Side trellises— Clematis Aug.-Sept. panicxilata Height Color Pink, yellow, white Trailing Blue berries 15' White Sunny side of garden; A. Ageratum B. Delphiniums C. Auratura and Candidum Lilies D. Tritomas E. Feverfew F. Asters G. Lychnis and Garden Spiraea H. Physostegia I . Clethra alnifolia J . Chionanthus K. Altheas Shady side of garden; A. Funkias B. Azaleas C. Rhododendrons D. Hydrangea arborescens E. Salvias F. Nicotiana sylvestris G. Dogwood H. Cercis Canadensis (Judas Tree) Pots on steps of porch; Chinese ELibiscus in variety, or Bambusa Metake may be used. All summer 6" Blue July-Aug. 3' -6' Blue, white June-July 3' -4' White, red spots Aug.-frost 2' -3' Flame color July 2' White July-Sept. 15"-18" Blue, white, red July 2' -3' Scarlet Mid-summer 4' -6' White, pink July-Aug. 3' -5' White May-June Tree White September Tree White, red, etc. Aug.-Sept. 2' White June 2' -4' Red, white June 2' -8' Red, white June 4' -6' White Aug.-Sept. 2' -5' Scarlet All summer 4' -6' White May Tree White April 5' Rose color h'£S r A. »"»''^ra-:; I i/, \ o o o o %/■■ o o Plan B 7 8 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN back yard, where utility is not so mucli considered as artistic effect. By using brick or stone division walls, cement walks and the like, considerable outlay may be indulged in, but the result will be permanent and satisfying. A very artistic effect may be achieved however, by the use of wooden trellises painted white, gravel or cinder paths and garden seats of wood. If a pool in the center is adopted it should be of concrete. Where this is not desired a rustic summer house may be substituted or a fountain or even a round garden seat, or a beautiful tree. Plan C with its accompanying table of planting is happily arranged at the side of the house, so fully in view from the windows of the living room and from the porch as to form an integral part of the whole. If a pergola outlines the half circle which characterizes the beginning of the garden it will form one more note in the symphony of the whole, or, if the porch is extended to cover the entire area between house and garden with steps leading to each separate path, rather than one broad series of steps, the result will be quaint and harmonious. Much attention has been paid in this design to the working out of a color scheme for the several beds, and careful attention to the harmony of adjacent beds. The same idea may be worked out in plans A and D. In this plan, as in A, the beds should all be edged with THE LOCATION 9 early spring flowering bulbs and later with blooming annuals or flowers of low growth. Plan D is an especially interesting plan for a for- mal garden, designed without special reference to the house, though it may be arranged quite as intimately as any of the others. Its special claim to preference lies in the fact that it may be extended from the small quarter of a circle, designed to fit into an odd bit of ground, to a half and even a whole circle, thus making an imposing formal garden. Like all the plans, consideration is given to the planting of low forms of flowers in the immediate foreground, pansies being especially suggested for the encircling outer beds, though verbenas or nasturtiums may be used where a more brilliant color scheme is desired. "Where the quarter or half circle is used, then tall perennials, shrubs and the like may be employed in the rear and in the straight beds which border the design; but when the complete circle is adopted, then it will be best to keep the height of the entire planting rather uniform so as to have more the effect of carpet bed- ding. It is charmingly adapted to a rose garden and. if desired, the central beds may be devoted to rose trees rather than to the lower growths. For the practical care of a garden there is nothing so good as clean, well-cared for gravel or cinder paths, especially if some sort of curbing is used to confine the beds. Bricks laid in the old-fashioned saw-tooth pat- PLAN C 3looom Border with red and white tulips BED 5.— Rose and White Shades A. Pseonies June B. Candiduni Lilies June C. Auratum Lilies July E. Gladioli Aug.-Sept. Height COLOB BED 1.— Blue and Whithj A. Ageratum All summer 6" Blue B. Hehotrope All summer 12" Violet C. Aquilegias June 18" Blue, white D. Delphiniums (Gold Medal Hybrids) E. Buddleias July-fall 2' -5' Blue, white All summer 6' Violet F. Hyacinths, KingoftheBlues May 9" Blue BED 2.— Yellow and White A. Sweet Alyssum All summer 6" White B. Anthericums May 18" White C. Anemones Sept.-Oct. 18" White D. Bachelor Buttons, double July 18" Blue E. Coreopsis, dwarf July-Sept. 12" Yellow F. Lemon Lilies June-July 18" Yellow G. Kerria May 3' -5' Yellow H. Forsythia April 3' -5' Yellow Border with triple rows of yellow.tulips BED 3.— Scarlet and White A. Candytuft All summer 9" White, red B. Verbenas All summer 12" Scarlet C. Shasta Daisies July 18" White D. Scarlet Lychnis July 2' -3' Scarlet E. Nicotiana affinis All summer 2' -3' White F. Salvias July on 2' -4' Scarlet G. Spiraea Van Houttei June 5'- 6' White H. Altheas Sept. 12' White, red Border with scarlet and white tulips BED 4.— Rose and White Shades A. English Daisy All summer 4" -6" Red, rose B. Petunias, large flowered All summer Trailing Red, white C. Vincas All summer 15" Red, white D. Scabiosa June-July 18"-24" Red, white E. Weigelia May-June 5' Rose, white 18" Red. white 2' -3' White 3' -5' White, red 3' All colors Aix>NG drive and about foundation of house, garage, etc. 1. Hjrpericum Moserianum July 1' Yellow 2. Spiraea Van Houttei May 4' White 3. Deutzia (Pride of Rochester) June 6' White 4. Altheas Sept.-Oct. 6' -12' Rose, white 5. Tamarix in variety May, June, Sept. 6' -12' Shades of rose This is a very interesting planting, as the carrying out of the color scheme ia each bed gives opportunity for study and research, resulting in much en- joyable knowledge. 10 PLAN C Plan C 11 PLAN D This plan is adapted to an irregular piece of ground and is especially suited to growing annuals and low-growing plants in the formal beds with tall-growing perennials or shrubbery in the borders at the rear. It will also develop satisfactorily as a plan for a rose garden in which case the central bed may be planted to tree roses or utilized for a rose arbor and in place of the shrubbery in the rear, rose trellises for such climbing roses as Mrs. Robert Peary, Climbing Meteor, Dr. Van Fleet and the like may be substituted. When used for growing annuals or other plants the central bed is designed for a cement lily-pool, or it may be planted to flowers, but the pool is much to be preferred. Where sufficient ground is at command the design may be repeated by laying out a similar series of beds on the far side of the shrubbery border. This gives a half circle and is a very attractive arrangement. The shrubbery in this case may be planted to paeonies, with good effect, especially if interspersed with quantities of hardy hlies. Boxes of small evergreens or box, placed at the intersection of the paths will be very ornamental. 12 U MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN tern, with brick paths between, are altogether charm- ing in the old-fashioned hardy garden; especially is this true where the enclosing walls are of brick. Paths made from sifted coal ashes, the rough part used as foundation and the white fine ash for surface, are economical, easily cared for and most comfortable to work on — qualities not possessed by brick, cement or gravel. Where the garden is enclosed by a wooden fence of artistic design, painted white, narrow boards also painted white may be used to enclose the beds and will be quaint and old-timey. Whatever the curb- ing and walls or fences are, the garden accessories should correspond. Brick walls and paths will neces- sitate garden seats of wood which may be painted a brick red ; cement walls call for cement benches, urns, etc., while the artistic wooden fence is best supple- mented with garden seats, arches and trellises of wood painted white. CHAPTER II SOIL AND FERTILIZERS Like the making of a garment, the making of a garden is largely a matter of material and style. But while the material of which our garments shall he composed is largely a matter of choice and taste, in the making of a garden we must deal with such ma- terial of soil, location and exposure as the good or bad of our environment supplies. Fortunately there is very little in the way of soil that cannot, by proper handling, be induced to respond to culture. I like to think that soil and plants are sentient things, feeling our moods and characteristics much as animals and humans do. If we deal with them generously and sympathetically, they will respond in kind, but the gardener niggardly in care, giving food and seed and moisture with a selfish hand, will reap a barren harvest. The only soil really unfit for cultivation is one of hard pan. Where this occurs there is really nothing that can be done except to remove it bodily and fill in the excavation with the best soil procurable. A 15 16 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN clay soil, on the contrary, is excellent for a rose gar- den when lightened with well-decayed manure and a proportion of leaf mold and sand ; such a soil may need underdrainage of tile or of broken stone and the like, but will not be lacking in fertility. A too sandy and light soil may be remedied by the addition of manure and leaf mold, or the decayed earth from the compost heap and from decayed sods, and so brought to a high degree of fertility and being light and warm will be in condition to work much earlier in the spring than the colder clay soil. Good loam such as produces a good crop of corn is an ex- cellent foundation for a garden as by the addition of muck and manure it may be adapted to a wide range of plants. Where a soil is in good mechanical condition, that is, soft and easily worked by the spade and fork, but seems dry and lacking in vitality, the addition of old well-rotted manure in the spring or fresh manure in the fall or late winter will put it in condition for the planting of most garden flowers. The proper pro- portion of manure is a wheelbarrow load to every square yard of soil. If the manure contains consider- able straw, this, decaying, will furnish a certain amount of humus which will counteract the dryness of the soil by retaining the moisture which a sandy soil allows to leach away. Sand forms a perfect drainage table by itself, but when combined with loam DOES THIS LOOK LIKE A PROMISING GARDEN SPOT? ■'h M-^^ ' ■• THE RESULT OF A FLOWER LOVER'S WORK IN ONE YEAR SOIL AND FERTILIZERS 17 and humus gives the warm, friable condition so neces- sary to successful plant growth. In cities it is ofttimes difficult to secure manure, especially old, well-rotted manure, for the garden, but there are few suburban or country places where it may not be had in abundance. Usually its place can be supplied from the various sources of waste fer- tility on the place. There are very few small town or suburban places in which poultry is not kept by many householders. Now poultrj^ manure is one of the best concentrated fertilizers we have; rich in nitrogen, free from weed-producing seeds and easily stored and handled. If the droppings are removed from the perches daily and stored in barrels, sprin- kling a layer of dry earth over each successive layer, it will be in excellent condition to apply to the ground in the spring. The sweepings from the floors should also be saved for the garden, and being mixed with a considerable proportion of straw or other scratch ma- terial may be consigned to the compost heap, together with all the rakings from the lawn, the refuse from the garden, garbage from the house — anything of a vegetable nature or that will decay without creating an objectionable odor. If such a compost heap is arranged in some out of the way corner and kept within bonds by a frame of boards, but open to biddy's activities, it will fur- nish an inexhaustible source of leaf mold or humus, 18 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN by the use of which, and a little bone meal, one may garden, quite independent of the bulkier manures. Another source of exceptional fertility is found in night soil that in country places might profitably be returned to the soil with the advantage of greater fertility and better sanitation. If a trench is dug through a garden bed, a foot or two at a time and such matter deposited and covered as soon as the liquid portion has seeped aAvay, the result will be a soil that will grow anything and be in a mechanical condition that makes working it a recreation rather than a toil. One of the finest garden spots I ever saw was produced from indifferent soil by this meaais alone. "Where poultry manure is used as a fertilizer a much less quantity is required than of stable manure — an eight quart pail full being sufficient for a square yard of ground and this should be trenched in so that the roots of newly planted things will not come into direct contact with it. By trenching is meant the method of laying back the soil across the end of a bed for one spade's depth and width, filling in the trench thus formed with manure and throwing the next row of spading onto this; in this way all the manure is buried a spade's depth below the surface where it remains moist, continues to decay, and at- tracts the roots of the plants down into deep soil in search of the food it offers. Manure left too close to SOIL AND FERTILIZERS 19 the surface encourages a surface growth of roots that are injured by drought and cultivation. The droppings from rabbits, Belgian hares and guinea pigs have the same value as the expensive sheep manure for which the florists charge so ex- travagantly and as it is easily saved and composited with dry earth, or simply dried by spreading out in the open air for a short time, it will form a well- worth considering source of garden fertility. Espe- cially is it suited to the enl'iching of window boxes and soil in pots. The waste water from the laundry and kitchen is valuable for any part of the garden, but seems especially acceptable to vines, which sel- dom are surfeited with moisture or food. Wood ashes are very valuable in the garden, espe- cially on a soil inclined to be wet, cold or sour. They furnish valuable potash and improve the mechani- cal condition of the soil; they should not, however, be mixed with manure, but rather be used as a sup- plementary addition, being applied after the ground is plowed or spaded and harrowed or raked in. Ap- plication should be made in spring rather than in the fall, while barnyard manure, on the contrary may be advantageously used in fall or early or late win- ter, especially if new or not well decayed. Bone meal is another valuable fertilizer and has the advantage of being always available. It does not, however, add humus to the soil and this should, when 20 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN bone meal is depended upon, be supplied from the compost heap or other source. When using bone meal on beds of hardy perennials, lilies, shrubbery and those plants which, from the nature of their growth are not disturbed annually, but remain for several years where planted, two grades, or more, of bone meal should be used ; a fine meal for immediate result and a coarse ground bone for more permanent effect. Even whole bones may be buried among shrub- bery and small trees to advantage. One quart of bone meal to a square yard of ground may be used on strong growing plants, a pint for annuals, while it may be omitted entirely on such plants as thrive best on rather poor soil. CHAPTER III HOTBEDS The hdtbed is so integral a part of the garden that it should precede rather than follow the construction of the garden itself, especially if the laying out of this is left until spring. For, while the ground is still cold with the snow and frosts of winter and the weather offers little inducement to out-door work, the hotbed with its mass of hot manure, underneath its covering of warm, mellow earth, is pushing and coax- ing forward, by heat and moisture and sunshine — all the potent forces of the still distant summer — ^the tiny seeds and roots and cuttings entrusted to its care, so that when the beds of the garden shall finally have been spaded and fertilized and raked and nour- ished by sun and rain and drying winds into just the right condition to receive them, they shall be ready by the dozens and scores and hundreds, to re- spond to the call for plants and still more plants, for the possibilities of a packet of seeds, sown under fa- vorable conditions, are out of all proportion to their cost. Even the first cost of a really first class hotbed 21 ^2 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN may often be met by a single season's production. Practically all hotbeds are the same in their work- ing, but there is considerable latitude in their con- struction, especially between the permanent construc- tion of one attached to a permanent home and one of temporary expedience. For a permanent hotbed there is nothing better than concrete and the expense of this form of con- struction is not great. For a small garden, including both flowers and vegetables, a bed three feet wide and fifteen long is ample. Florists make their beds much wider, but for the home gardener, especially the woman gardener, a bed three feet across is as wide as can be handled comfortably. The depth — whatever the size of the bed — will be the same, about four feet. In mild climates a more shallow depth will be prac- ticable, but in the colder parts of the country a con- siderable depth of manure is needed to give the neces- sary, continuous heat for a period of several weeks. The simplest way to construct a concrete hotbed is first to mark out on the ground where the hotbed is to be — a warm, southern exposure in the protection of a wall or building and with good natural drainage should be selected and as near the house as possible for convenience in caring for it. Next dig a narrow trench along this outline about four feet in depth and Vvith as smooth and even sides as possible. Into this trench a good quality of grout should be poured and HOTBEDS 23 the sides paddled, to press back any large stones and fill any hollow places which may occur. Above the surface of the ground forms will be needed to shape the upper part of the frame which should be a foot high in front and two feet high in the rear, the ends sloping evenly from rear to front. A frame of wood should be fitted to the top of the concrete on which to rest the sash ; this may be of two-by-four or two-by- six and should have long spikes driven through at intervals of a foot to bind it to the cement wall. "When the cement has thoroughly hardened the inside of the bed may be excavated — care being taken not to injure the cement walls, and the walls given a finish- ing coat of higher grade concrete. If a three foot bed is constructed and the regular florist's sashes — three-by-six — are used, it will be necessary to lay them lengthwise of the beds and they may be arranged to slide in grooves, or if the bed is against a wall or building, be fastened to the frame with hinges which will be found very convenient when it must be closed quickly in case of storm or other emergency. Old window sashes, if well glazed and painted, make excellent hotbed sashes and on some accounts are to be preferred to the longer florist's sash, as they enable one to open a shorter section of the bed at a time, which is often desirable where a variety of plants grow in one bed. Florists usually grow but one kind of plant in a hed ; hence all require 24 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN the same conditions of air and temperature. The home hotbed, on the contrary, contains plants requiring a wide variety of conditions, and partitions between the more delicate and the robust, and small sashes, just suited to their number, will facilitate caring for them. Concrete has one drawback — it is cold, and I have noticed that the plants close to the frame do not do as well as those farther from its chilling influence. For this reason an interlining of boards, any waste lumber about the place, will be of much assistance in forwarding the growth of the plants. The lumber does not need to be attached to the frame, just stood in place around the inside of the pit. The manure will support the boards sufficiently and it will not be necessary for them to extend above the surface of the soil. If a temporary, or an inexpensive permanent hot- bed is desired it may be constructed from any waste lumber at hand. In this case the pit should be dug the required size and a frame constructed, using four two-by-fours for the corners. The two in the rear should be about six feet long, those for the front cor- ners five. On these corner posts the boards for the lining of the pit are nailed before lowering it into the pit. The height above ground will be the same as the concrete frame. A somewhat cheaper bed can be made by extending the side and end boards only a few inches below the surface of the ground, but this HOTBEDS 25 construction is not to be recommended, as much dam- age is frequently caused by moles and field mice find- ing their way into the bed, a whole planting being often destroyed in a single night. For this reason all knot holes and broken places in the boards should be closed with pieces of tin or wood. In putting the bed in commission fresh horse man- ure is necessary; this should be that which has ac- cumulated over night, if possible, for which reason it will be necessary to secure it from a public stable or one where a number of horses are kept. It should be mixed with a considerable amount of bedding or straw, as the burning of this alloy extends the heating period of the manure very materially. The manure alone would give a quick, intense heat soon dissipated. It is customary for florists and market gardeners to pile the manure in a long pile and wait for it to heat ; then fork it over and wait for it to heat again before filling in the pit. This is neither practical nor necessary in the management of a small hotbed; the small amount of manure used would simply dissipate its heat by much handling ; the better way is to place it at once in the pit, tramping it down in layers until within a few inches of the level of the ground, care being taken that it is tramped evenly all over, espe- cially in the corners. If this is not done the manure will settle more in one place than another, as fer- 26 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN mentation proceeds, and the earth will crack and sag in places, disturbing the planting. Over the manure in the bed a layer of an inch of old, well rotted manure — that from last year's hot- bed will answer — should be placed. The object of this is to feed the tender roots of the young plants and prevent their penetrating down into the fresh manure and being burned. Five or six inches of good mellotv soil free from stones, sticks and lumps should be placed on top of this and raked fine and clear; if much rough stuff is present it will be an advantage to sift an inch or two of the top with a sand sieve. If the soil is very dry it will be best to wet it down and wait for it to dry to a moist, mellow condition before planting the seed. Earth that will hold its form when pressed in the hand, but looks mellow and ''right" is best. If the manure is fresh and already heating when applied — and the presence of moisture on the sash will indicate this — the planting of the seed may be started in twenty-four hours. The temperature may also be ascertained by thrusting a fork down into the manure and leaving it a few moments, when the tines, on removing it, will show at once the amount of heat. In planting seed in hotbeds or other protected places it must be borne in mind that it will not be necessary to plant as deeply as in the open, unpro- tected ground. Conditions of heat and moisture be- HOTBEDS 27 ing under control, more sliallow planting may be practiced which will make a few daj's' gain in time of germination. There is one similarity, however, in all planting — the earth should be pressed firmly over the seed. The reason is this : when the seed ger- minates it sends out a little shoot with tiny, very tiny, little feelers on the end ; now if this shoot in emerg- ing finds itself in a little depression between two grains of earth — a cavity too small to be noticeable to the eye — it may not in those first critical moments of infantile life be able to connect itself with the atoms of earth on which its sustenance depends, for that little hole in the earth may prove a big and lone- some chamber to the little rootlet, across which it may not be able to creep in time. But if the earth is fine and soft and pressed snugly about each little seed there will be no disastrous spaces to cause decay. A piece of flat board with a handle on one face is a very handy tool to use in planting the hotbed. This will press the earth down evenly and is much better than the hand as it does not leave depressions in the ground to hold moisture and occasionally cause the fatal damping off so destructive to plant life. In planting the hotbed the seeds should be classified, planting, as far as possible, those requiring the same degrees of heat and air and moisture in the same sec- tion of the hotbed. Plants which make a tall, vigor- ous growth from the start should be planted in the 28 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN rear of the bed in order that they may not overshadow the lower growths. Cosmos, gourds and Cohaea scan- dens are a few of the plants that should be relegated to the rear. Plant each variety of seed either in long rows across the bed, especially those seeds that are sown in drills, or in little squares by themselves, separating each square or section by narrow strips of wood pressed into the ground. This prevents the seed of one plat washing into the next if too much water happens to be received at a time; it is also of much advantage when the time comes to transplant the plants to the garden, especially in the case of several colors of the same plant — as in the case of asters, which would be difficult to distinguish, but you will know, by the dividing strip of wood, that all on one side are white, on another pink, and so on. Very fine seed like begonias, carnations, etc., should not be planted directly in the ground of the hotbed, but rather in shallow boxes — codfish boxes and half size cigar boxes are about right — and these set on the surface of the soil ; other fine seed may be sown broad- cast over the surface of the soil, pressed down with the board and then be covered lightly with fine sand sifted over. Somewhat coarser seed may be sown on the surface and have an eighth of an inch of fine earth sifted over ; other seed may be sown in shallow drills and the earth pressed back over it and quite HOTBEDS 29 large seeds should be sown their depth below the surface. All bean-like seeds should be planted with the eye down ; Cohaea scandens and gourd seed should be set on edge ; planted flat they are quite apt to de- cay, rather than germinate. As a Japanese friend said, *'They are very corruptible." Each variety of seed should be plainly labeled with wooden labels, with both the name and date of plant- ing and, if known, the period of germination. This last is a most important memoranda as it advises when the plants in a particular plat should appear. With- out it one is quite apt to expect results too soon, to become discouraged and to commence digging up the ground to see if the seed has sprouted — a performance not at all conducive to successful germination. There is a wide divergence in the germinating period of various seeds; some, especially many annuals, ger- minate in from three to five days, others from five to eight and so on up to the slov;er growing gourds and hard-seeded plants which require from twelve to fif- teen days. But this is by no means the limit of seed dilatoriness, some seeds requiring a year to germin- ate. These, obviously, should not be planted in the hotbed, but rather in a protected bed in the open ground, or in a coldframe. When the planting of the hotbed or any one sec- tion of it is completed it should be sprayed carefully with a fine-rosed watering pot and covered with news- 80 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN papers and the sash closed until such time as the plants appear, when the papers should be removed and replaced on top of the glass directly above the plants and the sash slightly raised to admit air. Air is very necessary to plant growth and one should aim to give as much as possible without chill- ing the plants. On sunny days the sash can be raised from the start a few inches if the precaution is taken to throw a rug over the opening of the sash on the windward side and to close the sash as soon as the sun has left it. It is equally important to raise it as soon as the sun raises the temperature inside suffi- ciently, as the heat increases very rapidly under glass under a direct sun, and it requires but a brief season of too high temperature to lay low an entire planting of seed, some plants being especially susceptible to burning. The hotbed sliould not be allowed to dry out or be kept too wet. It is best, usually, to water in the morning, unless very dry at night and the weather promises to be dry ; a good wetting at night followed by a stormy day or several days necessitating the clos- ing of the bed may spell disaster, for there is no way of drying out a bed in wet weather. Protection will be needed on stormy days and nights. For this there is nothing so good as straw mats. Fail- ing these, old carpet makes a warm covering, espe- cially if protected by a canvas cover to shed rain. A HOTBEDS 31 strip of canvas large enough to cover the entire bed and extend down the sides, and coated with preserva- tive paint or oil, is an excellent investment, as it can be used spring and winter. If the corners are mitred or folded and secured with loops to fasten them about the frame so that they cannot be blown away, one can tuck away the hotbeds on the stormiest nights with no fear of frost. It is rarely expedient to start the hotbed before the frost is out of the ground. Taking into consideration the time in which the slowest seed will germinate — say two weekvS — and allowing six weeks more for the plants to have attained sufficient size for transplant- ing into the open ground after danger of frost is passed (which each one will know in his particular latitude), it will be a simple matter to decide just when the beds should be started ; it may be February in the vicinity of Philadelphia or further south, or late IMarch or April in JMichigau where we often find April 1st quite early enough. But north or south, east or west, it will be six or eight weeks before * ' com planting time.'* When all the plants are up and growing, lath screens over the sash during the hottest part of the day will be of benefit, espeeiallj^ as the weather grows warmer. Later these may be replaced by screens of wire if it is necessary to protect the beds against chickens, cats and other predatory attacks. Full ex- 82 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN posure to sun and air is best after the plants have made some growth, providing there is no hint of frost in the air. While the beds should never be allowed to suffer from drought it will be best to let them dry out occasionally, sufficiently to harden the plants and encourage a stockier, woodier growth of stock and branch. If there is room to transplant the plants in the bed or one has auxiliary beds in which they can be transferred, much benefit will accrue, especially to such plants as asters, balsams, cabbage, cauliflowers and the like, though most plants recover quickly from the effects of crowding if the transplanting is ju- diciously done. Especial care should be given to hardening off the plants for a few days preceding transplanting, both by withholding water and by giving full exposure to the weather ; but the night before actual transference begins the bed should be well soaked to enable the plants to store up a generous supply of moisture to serve them until the roots have recovered from the shock of transplanting and are ready to resume the work of extracting moisture from the soil. It goes without saying that the beds should be in complete readiness for receiving the plants, and this preparation should have been made several days in advance of transplanting and before a soaking rain if possible. Newly spaded and worked ground is in too light and porous a condition for the setting of plants HOTBEDS 33 or the sowing of seed; it should have time to settle and become close and firm but not hard. Where plants are to be set in straight rows, as in borders or in square beds it will be best to draw lines for the regular setting either by the aid of a garden line or by the use of a board. Where square beds are to be planted the use of a board is a great help as it gives a place to stand or kneel without treading on the bed and the space at which the plants should be set can be marked on the edge of the board with chalk, thus enabling one to work rapidly and accur- ately. If the board is the width of the space between the rows so much the better as it needs only to be moved its own width to mark the new line of plants. Only as many plants should be lifted at one time as can be gotten into the ground before they wilt. In lifting the plants press the trowel well down be- low the roots and lift a bunch of plants at a time, do not separate the plants until you are ready to plant them, and then carefully, one at a time. Make for each plant a hole with the trowel large enough to re- ceive the roots without crowding, place the plant in position and draw about the roots part of the dis- placed earth, pressing it firmly down and about the stem; pour in sufficient water to fill the hole; wait for it to seep away and then fill in the remainder of the soil. Do not press this down hard, but make it level, dry and fine above the roots. All the holes of 34 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN a row may be dug at first ; then the plants set and the water placed in each and the covering done last ; this makes the work go off more quickly as there is then no waiting for the water to soak away. After all the plants are in, go over the bed carefully and see if any wet spots appear ; if this is the case dry earth should be drawn over them. This dry mulch is the im- portant point in transplanting ; if the roots are well wet down and then protected with a dry mulch of soil there will be no check in the growth of the plant and practically no loss in transplanting. The dust mulch keeps the soil and water underneath cool and prevents its drying out. If the surface soil were al- lowed to remain wet, the w'ater would be all drawn to the surface by the action of the sun and the capil- lary action of the soil ; also the sun penetrating the open pores of the soil would heat the water, injuring the roots. Under the action of a wet soil and hot day, plants unprotected by a dust mulch are literally cooked to death. For this reason it will be readily understood that the beds should not be watered after planting, but should be left undisturbed for several days or until they show by the action of the plants that root growth is established. Should any plant show signs of wilting or of needing water it should be supplied by making a hole at one side of the plant, applying water and replacing the dry mulch. No protection of any kind should be given newly set HOTBEDS 35 plants unless protection from frost is required by a fall in temperature, and to avoid this it is better not to be in too mueb haste to set out plants, for it is far easier to protect plants in a compact mass in a hotbed than when distributed over several hundred feet of outdoor planting. Should a rain follow a planting and this be fol- lowed by sunshine, the beds should be gone over as soon as practicable to restore the dust mulch. A sea- son of clear, bright weather is always best for trans- planting; hot, muggy weather with frequent showers followed by hot sun the very worst, but a spell of wet weather with a grey sky is a very good condition, as there will be no steaming of the plants under those circumstances. It is a good plan to keep back a part of the plants in the initial planting so as to have a reserve to call on in case of accident to those already planted ; espe- cially is this desirable in the case of vegetable plants from which the cut worm takes so large an annual toll. Cosmos, gourds, and succulent stemmed plants arfe especially desired by the little brown and red worms that hide away so coyly in the daytime and work such havoc at night. Gourds, especially, should be protected by a collar of stiff paper or tin. Tin cans with the bottoms removed may be pressed into the ground around the plants, half the tin being beneath 36 iSIAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN the surface, care being taken to see that no worms are included in the enclosure. This having a reserve of plants is the strongest ar- g-ument for the possession of a hotbed. Often in bad years, having sufficient plants to replace those de- stroyed by cut worms, without the expense of pur- chasing the same, will more than meet the initial ex- pense of a bed. They always pay for the annual up- keep. In bad years it is no unusual thing to have to replant three and even four times, hunting for and killing the worms, morning after morning, before freedom from their depredations is secured. Espe- cially is this true when a garden borders on new sod or clover land which harbors an endless hoard of worms. CHAPTER IV COLDFRAMES, FLATS, AND OPEN GROUND PLANTING A COLDPRAME is a supplemental hotbed without the heat. Not requiring heating material it is not neces- sary that a pit be dug for it — the part of the frame of the hotbed which extends above the ground illus- trating the construction of the coldframe. A bed may be dug and shaped the size the coldframe is de- sired to be, just as one would proceed with a flower bed in the open ground. The coldframe is then placed over this and a sash provided and such heat as it requires will be supplied by the sun 's rays shin- ing on the glass which should usually face the south. If it is desired to use the frame in early spring, late fall, or winter, extra protection can be afforded by banking up about the outside of the frame with earth, sods or manure and providing mats or canvas for the top. A coldframe is a very useful adjunct of the garden as it furnishes a safe place for the growing of peren- nials for the coming season's use, especially those varieties whose slow germination unfits them for sow- 37- 38 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN ing in the hotbed or in the open border. It is also of prime importance where crowded conditions in the hotbed make transplanting into temporary quarters desirable. If half the plants can be lifted and set a couple of inches apart in a coldframe the advantage is evident. For temporary uses like this, a very good construc- tive arrangement of a coldframe is to have the frame fastened together with pins or bolts so that it can be taken apart when no longer needed. A spent hotbed furnishes a most excellent cold- frame as the soil is rich in plant food, but has the ob- jection of being needed before the ground is ready to receive the plants that must be disturbed ; a coldframe solves this difficulty as they may be put into it tem- porarily. Pansies should always be started in cold- frames if wanted for early spring blooming, though these can usually go into the open ground as soon as it can be worked in the spring. For the early starting of seeds where neither a hot- bed or coldframe is available, flats in the house offer an excellent substitute. Wherever a warm, sunny window — preferably a south or an east one, is avail- able, excellent results will follow indoor culture. Shal- low boxes — not over five inches deep for the large growths and two for fine, greenhouse plants, of any convenient size should be chosen. Boxes narrow enough to rest on the window sill, or better still, a COLDFRAMES 39 broad shelf under a window that will allow of the boxes being drawn away from the glass, are more convenient to handle, and like a hotbed, several kinds of seeds may be sown in a single box providing they have similar requirements of heat, moisture and air. A box fashioned after the manner of a hotbed — high in the rear and low in front and supplied with a glass — makes a miniature greenhouse, will be found very satisfactory and can be easily constructed by any one handy with saw and hammer. Codfish boxes and shallow cigar boxes make excel- lent flats for the finer class of seeds — carnations, heliotropes, begonias, cinerarias, gloxinias, cyclamen, all may be grown successfully in these. A few holes should be made in the bottom of the flats to furnish drainage and these should be covered with bits of glass or shard and a little fine sphagum moss scat- tered over the bottom of the box for drainage before putting in the soil. The best soil for flats is a compost of good garden loam or fibrous soil from the bottom of sods, mixed with a little leaf mold and clean white sand, thoroughly incorporated; with this the larger flats should be filled to within an inch of the top, the smaller flats to a half inch. The earth must be settled evenly and pressed off level with a bit of board or anything handy — a paper weight is a good tool to use. Such fine seed as begonias, gloxinias and the like should be sifted as thinly as possible over the 40 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN surface of the soil, pressed down but not covered, un- less with a light sifting of fine white sand, scarcely enough to cover the ground. Sand is better than soil for this purpose as it reacts against the tendency to produce the damping off fungus so troublesome in house culture. Larger seed may be covered with a light layer of soil, still larger planted in drills and covered once their width in depth. All flats or sections of seeds should be carefully labeled with name and date of sowing. After the seed is planted the small flats should be set in a pan of luke-warm water until the surface appears dark but not wet ; the larger flats may be watered with a fine-rose or a rubber sprinkler, taking care not to wash the seeds loose from the soil. Cover the flats with white paper, over w^hich lay a glass and give a position of as uniform heat as possible. No light will be needed until the seeds have germinated when the plants may be removed to a warm, light window and the paper removed, but placed between the box and the window glass, and the glass slightly raised, in- creasing the light and air as the plants will bear it. A width of cheese cloth stretched across the window will temper the light sufficiently for most plants. Plants grown in flats in the house require rather more attention than in a hotbed, as they are more tender, lacking the bracing out-door air. If the win- COLDFRAMES 41 dow can be raised a little while every day, care being taken that there is no direct wind across the flats, it will help materially until such time as the sash can be raised most of the day. The boxes must not be allowed to dry out, as the earth is very shallow in these little receptacles, nor must it be kept too wet or soggy; just a mellow, moist, growing condition must be maintained. Other treatment and require- ments are the same as in hotbed culture. Sowing seed in the open ground is usually a very satisfactory way of dealing with those plants which do not require an early start. Nearly all annuals may be started outdoors, but should be planted deeper than in a flat or hotbed and the earth firmed well above them. If the season is that of the early spring rains, there will be no need of protection but should the season be dry it will be best to give protection of a little lawn clipping, or a little brush to prevent too much drying of the soil. This should be removed after the sun has left the bed in order that it may have the benefit of the night dew. After the plants are up no shade will, usually, be needed unless the position is very arid and exposed. Frequent watering with a fine sprinkler will be needed if the season is dry and as soon as the plants are large enough to handle it will be necessary to thin considerably, espe- cially if they are to remain where planted — as is true in the case of annual poppies. These should be thin- 4!2 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN ned to stand from nine inches to a foot or more apart according to the variety. Plants which will stand transplanting may be lifted and planted elsewhere. Seeds of hardy perennials may be sown in the open ground and allowed to remain until fall or even the following spring; if planted in May no protection will be needed, but if planted in August it will be well to protect the planting with lath screens raised a foot from the ground. A very excellent way of starting hardy perennial seed is to sow it in long rows through the vegetable garden and give exactly the same treatment as that accorded the beets or other vegetables, thinning the plants when up and cultivating throughout the summer. In the fall they may be lifted and planted where they are to remain, or they may remain where planted until the follow- ing spring, protecting the plants, if of a character which is benefited by protection, by boards leaning against stakes driven into the ground between the plants, or by evergreen boughs laid over them, or better still, leaning against a pole attached to stakes driven between the rows. The evergreen branches should be set tips downward so as to shed rain and wet. Pansies, hollyhocks, garden pinks and all plants which retain a crown of leaves during winter are especially favored by this form of protection. In planting seed of annual poppies, foxgloves, sweet alyssum and the like it is only necessary to scatter COLDFRAMES 43 the seed broadcast and either press it into the soil with a board or, if the earth is dry, to rake it in and then tramp it firmly with the feet. As poppy seed is very fine and the work of thinning the plants con- siderable, it is a good plan to mix the seed with dry sand — about a cupful of sand to a packet of seed and to broadcast this as thinly as possible. Closely connected with the preparation of the ground and the use of fertilizers, is the selection and use of tools. It is impossible to work a garden with any degree of comfort and success without the assist- ance of suitable tools. At the same time, a multi- plicity of tools is apt to prove * ' an embarrassment of riches," so large a number of the gardening tools upon the market are manufactured to sell and to tempt out of the pocket of the amateur, that slippery American dollar, which is never so elusive as when one begins to dabble in soil and the things which per- tain thereto. Such tools, however, as are essential should be of the best quality and suited to the hand of the one who is to use them. A good spade, with the blade at the angle most convenient to use — some prefer a straight handle, while others can work better with one which throws the point of the spade out — and a step wide enough for a good foot-hold, is the first tool which will be needed. Following this, a good iron rake of the curved tooth variety, or a lawn rake may be used 44 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN very conveniently if preferred; a hoe of small blade and light handle, suitable for chopping in between plants of perennials and shrnbs, and a trowel. This should be of steel in one piece — no riveted handle sort should be invested in — and it will be well to pur- chase three or four trowels and keep them in dif- ferent parts of the garden, as they are apt to be needed when not available and the extra steps re- quired in running after them often result in a bit of work being neglected that would be done were the means of attending to it at hand when it was noticed. Also it will be found a wise precaution to tie a bit of bright ribbon to the handle of each trowel, as there is no garden tool so prone to loss and to be- ing covered up with the soil and weeds as this, and the bit of bright color helps to identify it. Where the garden is planted in long even rows and the plants set a reasonable distance — fifteen to eight- een inches — apart, the use of a hand cultivator of the Planet, Jr., type is possible and will so simplify the work of caring for the garden that twice the amount of space may be undertaken; the use of the cultivator produces a far thriftier growth of plants, but where the garden is laid out in formal beds it is not practicable and one must use the hoe and spading fork more or less. After the beds have been spaded up in the spring and put in thorough order it will not be necessary to do much deep digging, but rather COLDFRAMES 45 to keep the soil soft and open by maintaining a dust mulch. The best tool for this purpose and for all-around work in the garden is the scuffle hoe. This tool's flat blade, about nine inches wide and four inches deep, is set at an angle of about thirty degrees to the handle. In using it is pushed from one, stirring or scuffling the earth and producing a dry mulch of from one to three inches in depth according to the angle at which the handle is held and the vigor with which it is used. As there are no projections or parts to catch on the plants it can be pushed close to the stems and under the leaves without in the least dis- turbing them. In using, the worker walks backwards, thus avoiding the tramping on the newly worked ground as is necessary with all other forms of cultiva- tors. I know of no other tool or combination of tools with which one can accomplish the same amount of work with so little fatigue. By going over the gar- den with it the morning after a rain, a dust mulch is established which will, ordinarily, carry the garden on to the next rainfall. Its use in the eradication of weeds in the garden is invaluable. By going over the ground as soon as the first seed leaves of the weeds appear one can keep the garden entirely free from weeds the entire season with no more trouble than is required to maintain a dust mulch. In fact, with this tool there is no excuse for weeds. 46 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN Another tool wliich will be needed in spring and fall is a good garden line and reel. This may be easily manufactured at home or may be bought at a reasonable price of any dealer in garden supplies. For laying out round beds and similar work a garden pole, instead of line, will be useful. This is easily made by drilling holes six inches and a. foot apart in a strip of inch lumber about two inches wide. At one end there should be a larger hole into which a stout, pointed stake with a shoulder is inserted so as to turn easily and the top of the stake should have a peg or nail in the end to prevent its dropping out. A sharp, somewhat slimmer peg or several of these, should be provided to fit the smaller holes which are used for measuring. By using a tool like this it is possible to mark off a garden like the circular rose garden in Plan D or Plan C at almost one operation, by using a long enough pole and from four to five pegs. A carrier in which plants may be transferred from the sandbox to the garden or house will be found of use and a very convenient one may be made by taking a straight piece of board about twelve inches wide and eighteen or twenty long and nailing strips of wood about three inches wide along the sides and fitting a handle, which may be improvised from a barrel hoop soaked until pliable and nailed exactly in the middle of each side of the board so that it COLDFRAMES 47 will hang evenly when loaded. A watering pot, a hose and nozzle and plenty of wire and lath screens, twine or raffia for tying, labels and stakes for staking plants about complete the sum of the necessary garden tools. CHAPTER Y THE ANNUAL GARDEN The annual garden may be said to be the inception of the garden proper. It is the first word in garden culture for the majority of people; for many it is the only word, as it may be written in colors of flame and pencils of light across the transient way of the peripatetic Wanderer from one brief camping ground to another farther on when the *' wanderlust" calls. The permanent garden shares the dignity of old established homes and traditions; it suggests quiet streets and deep, well cared for grounds, sloping away into generous distances, but the annual garden may be a little patch of bloom beside the door or down the path to the gate; it may be but a bit of ground reclaimed from the ash pile and rubbish heap of a city back yard, but it will be none the less lavish of bloom and fragrance for its sordid surroundings, nor the less beautiful when surrounded by well kept lawns and shrubbery. The speed with which an annual garden may be brought into bloom — a brief ten weeks from the first 48 THE ANNUAL GARDEN 49 breaking of the sod, to a riot of color — gives it an importance second to no phase of garden culture. If a permanent, hardy garden is in contemplation, and it is desired to proceed economically and conserva- tively by growing one's own plants from seed — which may be done by the hundreds at a cost of the same plants by dozens from the florists — ^then the use of annuals to fill the beds until the perennials are ready is invaluable as the seed may be sown broadcast in the beds in April or May, according to the latitude, and thinned or transplanted in May to give abundant room for growth, and the first year of the garden may have no embarrassing hiatus of bloom, but be a sheet of beauty from early summer to frost; for all annuals lend themselves remarkably well to mass bed- ding, especially where grown one variety of flower in a bed. It rarely pays to mix annuals in formal beds, though that may be done with good effect in borders along the foundations of the house, along the fence or drive or other informal positions; even then it is best to colonize each variety by itself, alternating the clumps if -desired, or planting low-growing sorts in front of taller growths. Many of our ornamental bedding plants may be raised from seed and treated as annuals. Especially is this true of the tuberous sorts, as the cannas and dahlias, coleus and salvias, which are usually bought of the florists, may be easily started in hotbed or 50 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN house and bedded out when all danger of frost is past, and a few cents' worth of seed will give several dollars' worth of plants, which will give quite an air to the lawn and garden. Ricinus or castor bean, one of the most imposing ornamental plants we have, is so easily grown from seed that its use should be more in evidence, especially in these sections of the cities or towns where lots are still divided from each other by unsightly fences and the rear of the lots defined by alleys. Here the ricinus may be very useful in hiding all that is unsightly and obtrusive, and this is true of many of the taller growing annuals — the Cleome pungens, annual sunflowers, cosmos, euphor- bias, Nicotiana sylvestris and the like — while for low beds about the house or lawn there is nothing better than the brilliant verbena, the persistent petunia, which comes in so many beautiful shades and color- ings and blooms until real cold weather, or the Phlox Drmnmondi. Indeed, there is scarcely a need of the flower gar- den, except that of permanence, that may not be met by an excursion into the realm of annual flowers, and the requirements for their growth are of the simplest — just fairly good garden soil, worked fine and mel- low and enriched with some old, well-decayed manure and, if possible, some leaf mold or earth from a com- post heap, and a sufficient supply of water during the growing season, especially when the flowers are THE ANNUAL GARDEN 51 developing, for annuals do not have tlie root system possessed by the long-lived perennials and shrubs. Bone meal is a good fertilizer for annuals, and a little nitrate of soda worked into the soil about the plants after they are up and have been cultivated once, will hasten them along wonderfully sometimes, but should not be used on those few plants that do best in rather poor soil, like the nasturtium, which, given too much food, produces a rank growth of leaves at the expense of blossoms. Tall hedges, low hedges, screens, massed bedding, ribbon bedding, vines for all positions — porches, per- golas, trellises, vases, window and porch boxes, hang- ing baskets and the like — may all be recruited from the useful annual roster. Annuals are especially useful in filling in beds or edgings planted to spring blooming bulbs— tulips, hyacinths and the like — especially where it is not desired to lift these when their season of bloom is past. A light scattering of seed of any low-growing, or slender annual — one that does not make a suffi- ciently strong root growth to interfere with the wel- fare of the bulbs, such as petunias, verbenas, asters, phlox, lobelias, the dwarf morning glories and any number of other flowers— will keep that portion of the garden in full bloom for the remainder of the season. Better still, plants of such annuals as it is desired 52 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN to use may be started in the hotbed or flats in the house so as to be ready to plant out as soon as the tulip or other bulbs have ceased blooming; in this way they will be ready to furnish bloom much more quickly than if planted in the open ground. Candy- tuft is one of the annuals that comes into bloom very quickly, but as it gives but one florescence, repeated sowings of seed should be made, the second about the time buds begin to show on the first plants; in this way a succession of this most desirable plant will be assured. The schizanthus is another desirable plant, repeated sowings of which are necessary for a suc- cession of bloom. These little plants, with their ex- quisite mass of flowers of all delicate shades of white, pink, rose, mauve and the like, come into bloom very soon after growth begins, and present a perfect pyra- mid of bloom, each plant a symmetrical bouquet, per- fect, complete, but the first florescence is practically all there is of it so that successive sowings should be made if one desires a mass of continuous bloom. One of the plants which requires a little special treatment is the scabiosa. This for best results should be started early in hotbed or flats, and transplanted out as soon as danger of frost is past, so that it may come into bloom before hot weather, as it is not at its best in extreme heat. It is one of our most beau- tiful annuals, and the range of color is unusual, white, flesh-pink, rose, terra cotta, crimson, purple- THE ANNUAL GARDEN 53 black, azure — all beautiful and distinctive. As the scabiosa has little foliage it should be massed rather closely, and the tall stems will be the better for some support, as slender bamboos or strings drawn across the beds to which the stems may be secured, but as inconspicuously as possible. The scabiosa is one of our very best cut flowers, remaining fresh in water a considerable time and the buds opening well. Cosmos is another annual which should be started under heat early, and transplanted when the nights and ground are warm. It should have a wann, sunny situation and abundant room — not less than three feet between plants, and five would be better. Give rich soil, stake with a sturdy stake at least five feet long and driven well into the ground, for the cosmos is badly twisted and broken by high winds, and when once down cannot well be raised again, but is then better allowed to lie on the ground, where each branch will root at the joint and grow erect from that point, making a fine and sturdy clump. They make an ex- cellent boundary line between the vegetable and flower garden or other part of the grounds, and do exceedingly well where they can have the cultivation given the vegetables. Verbena seed will germinate much more quickly if soaked in quite warm water over night, and seed of the annual morning glories, especially the Japanese variety, should be soaked in warm water until they 54 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN sprout, and then planted in warm soil in a sunny situation. Or if this is not convenient and it is pre- ferred to plant direct in the open ground after the nights and soil are warm, then the}^ should be dropped thinly in a shallow drill and hot water poured over them before filling in the earth ; this will make several days' difference in the germination period. Asters will make much finer plants if transplanted once at least before being set where they are to grow, and balsams will not give the fine, double blossoms desired if they are not transplanted once at least. On the other hand, some annuals will not bear trans- planting at all, so must be sown where they are to bloom, as the various annual poppies. The perennial forms, however, transplant readily. In planting canna, the seed, which is very hard, should have a hole filed or sandpapered on one side and then be soaked in hot water until the inner shell bursts. It should then be planted in pots, plunged into the hotbed or a box of sand in a warm window and grown until time to plant out where it is to re- main. Re-pot if the plant requires it. Many an- nuals are greatly benefited by the use of marsh earth or muck in the bed. Especially is this the case with the salvia, which grows to unguessed proportions under this stimulus. This, if old, may be spread over the beds and spaded in, but if fresh a hole should be THE ANNUAL GARDEN 55 dug, filled with it and covered with earth and the sal- via, canna, etc., set in it. Little, if any, trace of the muck will remain when the plant has completed its season growth. The accompanying list of annual plants is merely suggestive, as there is not room to list the various members of each plant family, but any good cata- logue will supply such additional data as may be desired. 56 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN ;z:aa ^52;^ Icq a a a a s a^ a^: a^vij^:^ a |<5 ^<;»^<;-tj<;<;^^. !<^ a l^^ fe o o .3 .^*.^.^ «.■#! ^IJ J J J.-#|| il.^'.^'l ■a s'aS 2'e« 4) p m « >> O ■= .ti 2-^ --2 -»J>aB.i '^6^S& to .., (yi CO eo ei <^ IM OO 53S -Q-Q a> o a s g s a a a a a^asa a p D I 3 p 3 3 ■«>^,<>^>^<<<^«< < a a g«a a a a CD I a &3 13 asiiiaa ^ c^^^^J aT aT 1!3 i-3 if gg=S^=5 3 §11= « £ 2 -a -Co"© 2^-3 O ^ C^ 7? (M I* -H ^ !3Oi»O5-^«-^00C5C0T^C ■<*< C» OM > i-# i-ioo>c5->*<«cio5t»a» ;4!t«33:isa« 343^3 343«S343« S-n S3 g &-c" 2 § s S " £ :^'l 6i^a2 is 3 3 3 3 3 ! mit of the growing of the Victorias, especially Victoria Trickeri, which does not require artificial heat, but THE V/ATER GARDEN 137 may be planted out in open pools when the nights are warm — early in June, usually. The simplest way to construct an artificial pool is to mark out the circumference on the ground and then to dig a trench two and a half feet deep and as narrow as can be handled, making the sides as smooth and even as possible. Concrete will then be poured into this, using rather small gravel in the mixture and paddling it away from the sides so that in setting the concrete may have a smooth, firm surface. After the concrete has become perfectly hard (and sufficient time must be allowed for this part of the work) the inside of the pool may be dug out down to the bottom of the concrete wall and a cement floor laid, great oare being given to the joining of the floor and wall, for it is at the angle of floor and wall that trouble from leakage usually occurs. It is better to cove this angle and leave the work as smooth as possible. If this is done, both in the rough and in the finishing coat which is applied over all, any cracks which occur in future will be easily located and repaired. Rough- ness here frustrates all attempts to locate the trouble and necessitates the going over the whole angle if re- pairs are needed. As the top of the pool should be a few inches above the ground — just how high being a matter of taste — forms will be required for this part of the work or concrete blocks shaped to the curve of the circle can 138 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN be used, or, if one prefers that effect, the top can be laid in cobble or rocks. Either effect will be good, but where smooth concrete is used in other parts of the garden, walks, walls, seats, etc., the curb would better conform to these. In the two-foot pool about one foot of good soil is required, marsh earth and well-rotted cow manure being the best combination. Over this, after the lilies are planted, an inch of clear white lake sand should be spread. This will disappear during the summer, but may be resurrected again the following spring by peeling off the quarter of an inch of muck that will have formed from the decay of vegetable matter and the dust that has settled in the water. It is not necessary, however, that this foot of earth be used as the lilies may be planted in large boxes of cedar or galvanized iron tubs instead. These need not be over a foot deep and should be filled with the same soil used for the pool. There are certain advan- tages in this mode of planting as it makes possible the inspection of the bottom of the pool should a leak occur. Leaks in a well-constructed pool are not usual, but do occur sometimes, and in a pool filled with earth it is very difficult to repair them when full of growing plants. They seldom occur in the fioor of the pool, but rather at the angle and in the wall, and when necessary to deal with them a trench must be dug around the wall, inside the pool, first letting out all THE WATER GARDEN 139 the water, until the trouble is found. Of course Avhere the lilies are in tubs the matter is simple, as a few hours' work will put things in order again. Small cracks above the earth line and in the wall are often successfully handled by painting with white lead. These are caused, of course, by frost, but properly protected in winter, frost will never find its way into the interior of the pool. Winter protection consists of letting out the water and filling the pool with dry leaves heaped high. Over these a cover of canvas or lumber must be placed, the center being sufficiently high to shed w^ater freely. Two oblong structures of matched boards, two feet longer than the pool and as much wider as half the diameter, the center and ends resting on stout supports, and securely attached at the center, make a very satisfactory cover as it can be stored against a wall in a barn or other convenient place, while a round cover is very awkward to house anywhere. There are so many beautiful varieties of water lilies offered by the florists who specialize in this form of plants that it is difficult to make a choice. Perhaps the best selection for the beginner would be one or two plants each of IMarliacea rosaea, and Marliacea chromatella, both hardy nymphasas, constant and pro- lific bloomers, and perfectly hardy. They come into bloom early, usually showing buds when the leaves are removed from the pool in the spring, though there 140 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN is no water in the pool, and the ground but slightly damp. Marliacea ros^ea is a beautiful pink flower five inches in diameter, and Marliacea chromatella a some- what smaller, lemon yellow flower. The finest white is Nymphaea tuberosa Richardsoni, but unfortunately it is a rather shy bloomer when grown with other varieties and at all crowded. It is by far the hand- somest of all the day blooming hardy Nymph^as. But one should not confine the planting to the day bloom- ing Nymphseas alone, as these close their flowers at about four o'clock or earlier in the afternoon, just at a time that they would be most appreciated. How- ever by planting a few night bloomers — which open early in the evening, remaining open until late the following morning, blooms will be open at the most interesting time of the day. These night bloomers are of the tender variety and must be purchased each year of the florists or wintered in a warm greenhouse, but they well repay the additional care and expense, as they much exceed in size and beauty the hardy Nymphaeas, being often twelve and fourteen inches in diameter and of surpassing beauty of color and form. The blue Nymphaeas are especially admired and those are easily grown from seed planted in shallow, water tight dishes of soil covered with an inch of water and placed in the hotbed close to the sash. The seed should be scattered on top of the water, when it will sink to the bottom, germinating in about six days. THE WATER GARDEN 141 When the little plants are large enough to handle they should be pricked out into inch pots and plunged in a dish of water and grown on until June, when they may be planted out in shallow water in the pool. They will bloom the first year, but the blooms will be small. The second year they will have attained size and blossoms ten to twelve inches will be produced. The various lotus are easily grown from seed, in much the same way, but as the seeds of the lotus are large and very hard they must be filed or sandpapered until a white spot shows on the side of the shell; treated in this way and placed in a warm hotbed nearly every seed will produce a plant. Seeds of most of the best varieties of lotus can be obtained of water lily specialists, and as the seed can be purchased at from fifteen to twenty-five cents a packet, and the growing plants cost from three to six dollars each, it is quite worth one's while to experiment with the seed. It is not best to grow the Nymphaeas and lotus in the same pool. For one thing the lotus require a more shallow water than the Nymphseas, not more than six inches being desirable, while the Nymphagas require twelve for best results. Again the root growth of the Nymphaeas is entirely distinct from the lotus, being club formed and not extending far from the original point of planting. For best results all small plant buds should be removed from these main roots each spring and the strength of the root given to the pro- 142 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN duction of one or two strong plants. On the other hand the lotus forms a rhizome root, of immense pro- portions. One lotus root planted in a twelve-foot pool will circle the pool in two seasons, hugging the wall and sending up tall leaf scapes and blossom stalks at intervals of a foot or eighteen inches, completely ob- scuring a view^ of the floating Nymphaas. If one wants to grow them in connection with Nym- phaeas then it would be well to place another wall in the center of the pool three or four feet in diameter and make the earth in this higher than in the rest of the pool and in this plant the lotus ; they will then make a beautiful center for the pool and will not in- terfere with floating lilies. If one wishes to stock the lily pool with plants of home growing, then only so much water should be let into the pool as will saturate the soil and leave just enough water on the surface to float the tiny pads of the seedlings. More must be added very grad- ually and carefully as the plants increase in size and length of stem. In planting the seedlings, merely press the roots down into the sand, and if inclined to float at first, place a little stone over each root. Water can be brought into the pool either by piping or by means of a hose from whatever water supply one has. The letting out of the water, however, re- quires a drain of tile carried from the lower side of the pool to a main drain or to a pit filled with gravel -«•: "\ *■■ pi m s ' HBBSBw^. '**^ ' ''' ^-S-v 1; |HHHH||Kiy ^^^^H -^%g>^WMW i^^^H ■P^^^'^ .^iv! ' '.;^ ^■[ ^SM^^'.' THE WATER GARDEN 143 at a little distance. It should enter the pool on the bottom by means of an angle tile, the opening of which should be level with the floor of the pool and well cemented into place. This opening, a three or four inch tile, can be closed by a wooden plug, also cemented in, through which a one inch hole is bored to be closed by an inch wooden rod extending above the water. If a ten or twelve inch tile is placed above this to keep back the soil it will be found that it makes a more reliable stop than a plumber's trap, which is always liable to leak and give trouble. The swelling of the wooden rod hermetically seals the opening and in fall, or whenever it is desired to let out the water, it is easily removed by passing a chain around it and lifting it with a lever and fulcrum, as a crowbar and a block of wood. Water lilies are often troubled with the grey aphis or plant lice; these are sure to appear in August if the plants have been allowed to become crowded. They are absolutely deadly, both on the Nymphaas and the lotus. Nymphseas can be sprayed with kero- sene emulsion to eradicate them, but kerosene must never be used on the lotus, nor can it be used on pools containing gold fish. For this reason the pads must not be allowed to crowd until they stand out of water. "When the lice do appear the remedy is to spray with water at a hundred and forty degrees for one thing, and to get into the pool, either by wading or by means 144 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN of a long ladder laid across the pool or resting on a tile in the center and covered with a board, and re- move every leaf above water and if necessary the buds and blossoms also. It is surprising how quickly they will replace themselves so that the pool is not rendered unsightly for more than two or three days. A better way, however, is to remove all the faded and old leaves frequently so as to leave open places between the plants all the time ; the effect is much better than of a pool crowded with leaves. This cannot be done in the case of the lotus, and removing the lice by hand has to be resorted to as they quickly ruin the plant if allowed to increase. A few gold fish should always be kept in the pool as they act as scavengers, destroying the larvae of the mosquito and other insects and are of themselves ob- jects of much interest, becoming very tame and com- ing up to eat from one 's hand if fed regularly in the same place. Though they find sufficient food in a well stocked pool they are very fond of the bread which they eat from one's hand, swimming in and out between one 's fingers. CHAPTER XIV THE OLD-FASHIONED GARDEN The old-fashioned garden of hardy perennials, with its rows of hollyhocks, its beds edged with spice pinks, its Sweet Williams and none -so-pretty has all but disappeared from the village home, giving place to the conventional bed of cannas, salvias or geraniums, but is appearing in a much developed, glorified form in the country homes of the well-to-do, few of which are to-day without their old-fashioned or ''grand- mother's garden." In some of these gardens the floral display rivals in perfection of bloom and glow of color any achievement of the showy bedding plants, many of the perennial flowers — larkspurs, foxgloves, Canterbury bells and the like — being grown in pots in cool greenhouses until ready to burst into bloom, when they are planted out to take the place of hardier perennials which have but that day finished their season of bloom. In this way an unbroken succession of bloom is produced, but it seems to me that the real spirit of the perennial garden is lost, for the deep, underlying principle of the perennial garden is per- 145 146 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN manency and age. Just as we value an old article of silver or china or furniture that has been handed down from mother to daughter for generations, over a similar article that has just been bought from a dealer, even though it may be of equal antiquity and undoubted genuineness, so the old-fashioned garden should have its sentiment, its legends, to have the real old-time spirit, and although we cannot all inherit old plants and gardens, we can, at least, establish those that will in time come to have a beauty and dignity of place and association. The hardy perennial plants are the garden's most profitable asset, increasing in value from year to year and earning a rich increment of size and progeny. I think the inception of a hardy garden should have much to do with sentiment ; that one should first plant those things which most appeal to one and those which are in any way associated with one's intimate life. Plants gleaned from the gardens of dear friends, especially those who no longer meet with us, have a subtle charm quite distinct from those which merely represent a financial transaction. There are two points to be considered in the laying out and planting of a garden of hardy plants; one that the garden must be allowed room to grow — it should not be planted in a strictly circumscribed space, so that the first planting sets the limit for all future planting, but rather, it should be so arranged that THE OLD-FASHIONED GARDEN 147 beds may be lengthened or new beds added as the oc- casion arises, for all, or most, perennials increase, either by self sowing, by off-shoots or by root division, and a very modest planting to-day will be the nucleus of an extensive one later on. Secondly, a large num- ber of plants of one variety is far more effective than many kinds of plants singly or few in number, and the edging of beds of tall perennials with low-growing plants is distinctive of all old-fashioned gardens and adds a special charm to the planting. If, in the beginning of our hardy garden it is not practicable to plant all the various sorts by the dozen or score, then one should use judgment in planting what is available. The important ones — those that will remain undisturbed for years until in time they attain noble proportions, like the dictamnus, which is a plant of generations rather than of years — should not be placed as near neighbors, so that in time they will encroach upon the room needed by each other, but should rather be neighbored by shorter lived or less important plants which, one will not hesitate to remove when their room is needed "by the more im- portant plant, and the idea of permanence should not be lost sight of. One should have a clear idea before planting anything, just what the effect will be. Many perennials have no objection to frequent upheavals, but to others it means a check in growth and often complete dissolution. Color incongruities are more 148 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN often disastrous than any other form of incompati- bility. I recall a planting in my own garden that re- sulted most disastrously and might just as well have been averted by an instant's thought. In this case, having a surplus of Oriental poppy plants to dispose of in a hurry, several were set in a border containing a fine plant of dictamnus; the result when the two bloomed together was something to make a flower lover mourn; of course in this case the remedy was to re- move the poppies, but two or three weeks ' discord was created in the garden by mere thoughtlessness and I dare say the plants are still gossiping about it. In considering color juxtaposition it should be borne in mind that when in doubt one should always use white. White is the great peace-maker and can be introduced with good effect almost anywher.e. It is especially good with scarlet and where two inhar- monious shades of red have been inadvertently placed side by side, the introduction of white may relieve an embarrassing situation. Almost all shades of yellow harmonize with blue, mauve with pink. Blue planted in the rear of the garden increases the apparent dis- tance and extent of the garden while white brings the planting nearer, lessening the apparent size of the garden. Many plants are at their best in long rows, rather than in massed beds ; the hollyhock and foxgloves are good instances of these. The garden spiraea is good THE OLD-FASHIONED GARDEN 149 in long rows used as a background for lower growing plants such as the lychnis and feverfew. A bed that always affords much satisfaction at its time of bloom has a close row of aquilegias in the front row which bloom first; back of these, coming into bloom at the same time is a row of scarlet lychnis and white fever- few, alternated, and backed by the tall garden spiraea ; the effect is delightful and after these have faded the last and rcur rows of physostegia finish up the color symphony of that bed for the year. The ulmaria is a perennial plant of the spiraea family that is beautiful when grown in long rows. This combines well with scarlet and may be edged or bordered with any good scarlet flower blooming at the same season. The ulmaria, to be at its best, should be lifted and divided every third year. Unless this is done the plant makes so dense and woody a root growth that no moisture can penetrate it and only scant and inferior bloom is produced, but if divided and the plants set eighteen inches apart in good soil and freely supplied with water during the growing and olooming season, it will be one of the marked features of the garden. German iris is another plant requiring frequent di- vision and resetting in good soil, though it need not be reset more than once in three years, unless it shows signs of failing in bloom. Each clump taken up should have all the old woody root discarded, only the 150 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN new growth with strong", live eyes being retained, and these may be set in a clump or circle, the roots turning outward, so as to form a fine clump when in bloom, for a strong clump should be aimed at that the effect may be good the first year after planting. Lift and divide in August or before new growth starts. Hardy phlox is another of the perennials that re- quires frequent dividing. The roots may be lifted every second or third year, according to the growth they have made, and pulled or chopped apart and re- set singly in fresh soil. The dictamnus on the other hand should never be disturbed, once it is planted, but top-dressed with old manure in fall or spring and this worked into the soil; that is all the care this fine plant requires. The aquilegias require little care, once established, beyond keeping the weeds away and the soil, which should approach that of the woods as nearly as pos- sible, mellow and moist. The aquilegia self-sows and the little seedlings may be lifted and easily trans- planted, but the old plants do not transplant very well and should be left undisturbed if possible. The double blue and white columbine, however, may be lifted by passing a spade down well below the roots and transferring it to a new position. Never pull up a plant, nor dig it out with the trowel if there is any doubt of its transplanting safely, but lift it on the spade with all the earth that belongs to it and trans- THE OLD-FASHIONED GARDEN 151 fer it to a hole already prepared, in one operation. Foxgloves, which are often hard to transplant, will do nicely if moved in this way. Paeonies are of the plants which should not be dis- turbed unless it is necessary. If not blooming well and remedial measures have failed it may be well to lift, dividing if the clumps are old and large and to reset in a more favorable location. Failure to bloom is sometimes caused by too deep planting (there should not be more than two inches of soil over the top of the clump), by sour soil — remedied by application of lime; by poor drainage — indicated by sour soil; lack of sunshine, or — and this is almost always the real trouble — lack of sufficient water when the plant is making growth and developing its flowers. It will frequently be found that paeonies that have had a poor blossoming season, followed by a rainy summer, give abundance of fine flowers the following season. Another thing that often injures the paeony is cut- ting off the foliage before it matures and dies a nat- ural .death ; this should never be done. Nearly all of the old-time garden favorites have been greatly improved in the last ten years. Espe- cially is this improvement noticeable in the holly- hock and in the paeony. The new double hollyhock, Newport pink, is an exceptionally beautiful flower, perfect in color, flower and manner of growth. A long row of them in full bloom in July and August is 152 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN worth going a long way to see. The hollyhock requires little care in general, but of late years what is known as the blight has much injured the plantings, unless treatment with bordeaux mixture has been given early in the growing season, as soon as the stalks begin to form, and repeated at intervals on the underside of the leaves until the blight has been checked. Both the old-fashioned larkspurs and the newer named delphiniums, especially the Gold Medal del- phiniums, are practically everblooming, for if the plants are cut back to the ground when through their first season of bloom a second crop of flowers lasting well through the fall will be produced. The del- phiniums may be planted outdoors in May in the vege- table garden and cultivated during summer and lifted and planted where they are to remain in the fall or the following spring. Usually they will give single spikes of bloom the first year so that one may make selections of the more desirable sorts, though there are few discards in this beautiful flower which often grows five or six feet tall with spikes of beautiful flowers from a foot to eighteen inches long in all the shades of blue from the palest azure to the deepest ultramarine, with pink, white, black or bronze eyes. Surely no flower of the garden is more worthy of ex- tended cultivation. Of the Sweet Williams no sort has attracted more favorable attention than the Newport Pink , a distinct A HARDY BORDER OF LARKSPUR AND HOLLYHOCKS FOXGLOVE PLANTED AGAINST A BACKGROUND OF SliRUBBEIlY THE OLD-FASHIONED GARDEN 153 new color which originated in one of the famous gar- dens of Newport. It is what florists call a water- melon-pink and is an admirable sort for bedding and massing. The ever-blooming hybrid Dianthus lati- folius atrococcineus is another distinctive sort, bloom- ing the first season from seed, and is a continuous bloomer. The color is an intense crimson scarlet al- ways attracting attention in the garden. It makes admirable edgings for beds of taller plants and a fine border for lily pools, where it may be alternated with sweet alyssum with excellent effect. A chapter on hardy perennials cannot, in the na* ture of things be exhaustive when included in a gen- eral garden book; it can only touch here and there the high lights of the garden's catalogue, but cer- tain things stand out conspicuously, either because of their merits or popularity, and call for more than a passing mention. Of plants which seem especially at- tractive and winsome none appeals to me more strongly than the anthericum or St. Brunos lilies, whose waxen bells, like miniature candidum lilies, are produced on eighteen inch spikes in May. One should plant these, not singly but by the dozen, and give them a little space by themselves, as when crowded by the too-near presence of other plants they will not thrive, being not at all assertive of their rights. They like a moist, mellow soil in a semi-shaded situation. 154 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN A position where they can have the morning sun will do admirably. Blooming at the extreme opposite of the garden year, in October, the Japanese anemones give abun- dance of beautiful, daisy-like flowers at a time when other flowers are scarce. These require a somewhat shaded, protected position and a moist, woodsy soil for best results. The plants increase by underground growth, the rhizome raots spreading rapidly through the bed and throwing up numerous plants. For this reason they should be disturbed as little as possible as it is difficult to cultivate the ground without de- stroying many of the plants, so that it is best to wait until growth begins in the spring before working over the beds. The double forms are the more beautiful and the white is, perhaps, the loveliest of the sorts, though the soft rose-pink, and silvery-rose are each beautiful. Indeed one could scarcely do better than to plant the entire collection of anemones, for few flowers surpass them in delicate beauty. A long border planted to the several varieties is a distinct acquisition to the hardy garden. In semi-shaded spots in the garden the astilbes give beautiful spikes of feathery pink and of white flowers. These are the astilbes forced by the florists for Easter, and are not at all hard to grow in the hardy border if given good soil and sufficient water. THE OLD-FASHIONED GARDEN 155 For late fall flowering the hardy chrysanthemums are indispensable. They should be planted in a warm sunny position, beside a south wall of a building if possible, as they perfect their flowers late in October, often being still full of bloom when the first snow storm whitens the ground. For this reason the brighter colored sorts are preferable and there are many shades of pink, red, bronze and yellow to be had, all desirable and of easy culture. The Shasta daisy, which belongs to the same family but blooms in July and later, is easily raised from seed, often blooming the first year. The roots increase in size rapidly and may be lifted every spring and reset, so a planting of an initial dozen the first year will give several score of plants the succeeding summer. They may be planted in any good soil in a sunny situa- tion and will take care of themselves. A new Japan- ese variety, Nipponicum, blooms in September and October on two foot stems with large, pure white flowers. CHAPTER XV HARDY SHRUBS AND TREES The planting of hardy shrubs and ornamental trees should be one of the earliest undertakings in the de- velopment of a new home. Most hardy perennials and all bulbous and annual plants give immediate re- sults, but these larger, stronger growths require time to adjust themselves to their new conditions and de- velop into effective size and florescence. There are few places so small that room for a few shrubs can- not be found, or so large that some effective sorts may not be selected to add beauty and grace to the landscape. One very effective use of shrubbery consists in banking about the base of stables, barns and other out-buildings. This is especially desirable when these buildings are, as is usualty the case in the small place, in plain view of the house. A successful planting of attractive shrubs in such locations not only serves to mask an otherwise unattractive object, but also brings into the outlook from the windows, a wealth of beautiful form and color throughout the various 156 HARDY SHRUBS AND TREES 157 seasons of the year. For such positions it is desirable to select plants that will give the longest season of bloom ; those which have attractive foliage of an orna- mental nature or those which are attractive with bright berries or colored bark in winter. Evergreens are always desirable and may be used as a back- ground for shrubs bearing bright berries or bark with charming effect. The objection is often raised that the number and size of the doors of a barn or stable leave little room for planting, and this is, in a measure, true, but if, instead of opening the doors back against the barn they are merely opened at right angles and a post set for them to swing against, or if they can be made to slide on hangers, a very appreciable difference in the available planting space will result. Usually it will be found that quite tall shrubs can be used here. A rear fence, a division line between lots where it is not desired to have the lawns continuous, an angle in a building the harsh lines of which need softening, all afford excellent opportunities for the planting of shrubs and trees. One of the most successful uses of flowering trees consists in using them to top a high board fence or brick or stone wall, where they are especially effective when in bloom. For this purpose it is better to select those which make a crown of branches rather than those which are clothed with foliage from the ground 158 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN up. Cercis canadensis is an excellent, medium-sized flowering tree, completely covered in early spring with wreaths of deep pink buds. The dogwoods are de- lightful trees for the purpose and all of the flowering peaches, crabs, cherries and plums, especially the double-flowered ornamental sorts. Aralia spinosa is an enormously effective thing when, in mid-summer, its gigantic leaves are crowned with great masses of greenish white flowers and always the tamarix' feathery foliage and dainty bloom is a joy and delight. Catalpa hignonioides is a strong claimant for popular favor wherever a conspicuous, showy tree is needed and is especially good when seen above a mass of lower foliage. For massing under banks, at the base of high build- ings or in front of tall evergreens try the dwarf horse chestnut, Aesculus parviflora, with its long racemes of creamy-white flowers. Equally desirable in this position are the dwarf evergreens. The dwarf moun- tain pine is an admirable little tree, rarely growing over six feet in height, but frequently spreading over the ground to twice that distance; trailing junipers are also excellent and the yews, especially the Ameri- can variety, which rarely exceeds five feet with a diameter of twice that measure, and which, in season, is completely covered with its bright red berries are excellent things to plant in front of taller evergreens HARDY SHRUBS AND TREES 159 at the base of a barn, or wherever they can be seen to advantage from the house. Of the flowering shrubs there is, to my mind, noth- ing else so good as the deutzias. All the varieties of this plant are fine, but for a tall sort I should unhesi- tatingly choose Pride of Rochester and should plant it singly, in groups and as a specimen on the lawn. For a low-growing deutzia I should select Deutzia gracilis and plant it in front of evergreens or taller-growing shrubs so that it might have an effective background for its wealth of lovely white flowers. Then, having planted freely of these two deutzias I should go on and plant all the other varieties of deutzias I could buy, beg or borrow, for I can assure you there is not one which is not well worth cultivating. Certain of the spiraeas make desirable hedge plants where a light, graceful growth is desired. Spiraea Van Houtte is the best of sorts, and Spiraea Pruni- folia fl. pi. equally as good. Where one has an abun- dant water supply one may plant freely of the vari- ous hydrangeas, especially paniculata grandiflora and arhorescens, but where it is impossible to water these shrubs sufficiently they are apt to prove a little disap- pointing. Paniculata makes a dense root growth quite close to the surface of the ground and for this reason is apt to suffer in a dry spell. It is a good plan to mulch heavily with old barnyard manure in the fall, removing the coarsest in the spring and covering the 160 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN remainder with a few inches of good earth. This protects and nourishes the roots. A heavj^ mulch of lawn clippings during summer is also helpful, but is quite useless if chickens are allowed access to it as they will scratch it off and, to be effectual, it should be undisturbed. Left alone it forms a felt-like mat through which neither weed can spring nor heat or drought enter. In somewhat sheltered situations the altheas are very satisfactory and may be used as backgrounds for lower growths, as specimen plants or kept trimmed low as hedges. They are beautiful no matter how they are used but require a little protection in win- ters in localities of cold, unsettled weather. This may take the form of rough manure about the roots and strips of matting or burlap wound about the top. Often the interposition of a windbreak of some sort will be sufficient. A number of shrubs of one variety is always far more effective than several plants all different and, where there are a number of separate plantings to be made, it will be well to emphasize some particular variety in each planting, though the entire planting need not be of the one sort, but combined with some other which harmonizes or contrasts well with it or which blooms at a different season. The planting of shrubs and trees is a simple opera- tion, but there are certain conditions which make for HARDY SHRUBS AND TREES 161 success. In the first place the soil should be suitable — well drained, fertile loam, well enriched with well decayed manure. If the soil is poor, gravelly or clay it should be replaced by better ; if the spot is low and wet then resource should be had to underdraining. The planting of trees and shrubs, being a permanent affair, should be done right at the start, for the work cannot be done over every year or two as may be done with annuals and perennials of sorts. The ground should be very thoroughly worked over and then the holes dug for each separate tree and shrub, making the holes deep and wide enough to hold the roots in a natural position at the same depth, or slightly deeper, than they were before transplanting. If their position in woods or nursery is known, then it will be well to place them in the same relative po- sition in their new location — that is, the side of the tree or shrub which faced the north should again be set to face it if possible. The shrubs should be out of the ground as short a time as possible and as far as practicable be pro- tected from drjang out by wrapping with moss and burlap which should not be removed until all is ready for setting the plant in the ground. If the wrap- pings appear dry, plunge plant and all in a bucket of lukewarm water for a few moments. Two people can handle large shrubs and trees better than one alone. Let one hold the tree erect in the hole while 162 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN the other replaces the earth about the roots, working it in between the roots so that they do not rest against each other. If any roots are broken they should be trimmed back to sound tissue, using a sharp knife. After the roots are covered with earth, press it down firmly with the feet, pour in sufficient water to nearly fill the hole, allow this to seep away and then fill in the remainder of the earth and make all smooth and fine about the tree. A mulch of litter will be of bene- fit as it will keep the ground moist and cool. As a general thing spring planted shrubs do best but it depends largely upon the care they receive during the summer. If neglected and allowed to suf- fer for water they will not make the vigorous root growth that will enable them to stand the coming winter. More plants are winter killed from summer neglect than from the severity of the weather. Where the fall is long and mild, good success often follows fall planting. In this case the shrubs should not be moved until they have shed their leaves ; then they should be gotten into the ground as soon as pos- sible that they may become established and make some root growth before freezing weather. If a heavy mulch is given considerable growth will be made as the earth is much warmer at this time of year than the atmosphere and the roots can work to advantage. This is not the case in early spring when the earth warms slowly and it is no uncommon thing for plants HARDY SHRUBS AND TREES 163 to remain dormant for two or three weeks after planting and if a dry season follows the growth may not be satisfactory unless water is supplied freely. Another point of importance in planting shrubbery is to buy the stock of reliable florists or nurserymen. It is seldom satisfactory to purchase of one's local dealer unless one can see the plants in bloom and know what he is getting. For this reason all large nurserymen guarantee their stock and are willing to replace any that prove untrue to name or that, given proper care, fail to grow. One's local florists are seldom as liberal in this matter and, although one saves freight or express by purchasing at home, the other disadvantages often more than offset this. On the other hand, most greenhouse plants, especially bedding plants, are much better bought at home as one receives much better value for the money. The matter of pruning shrubs is one which receives much more attention and causes more anxiety than it should. In my opinion more pruning is done than is necessary. A few shrubs, like the hydrangea, re- quire heavy pruning — about a third of the last year's growth or, in the case of straggly, weak growths, one- half should be removed in late winter or early spring. This makes for stockier growth and larger panicles of bloom. If a shrub is growing in a stocky, thrifty manner there is little need of pruning other than to keep it symmetrical. What pruning is done should 164. MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN be in the way of removing all weak growth, such limbs as cross and rub each other and sufficient inside pruning to allow the sun and air to penetrate all parts of the plant. Some plants, like certain spiraeas and deutzias, make too dense a growth and it is often a benefit to cut out the centers quite severely, but all pruning of this class of plants should be done in the early summer just after the plants are through bloom- ing, as all spring blooming plants bloom on the old, last season's growth and spring pruning would seri- ously reduce the amount of bloom. Fall and mid-sum- mer bloomers, on the other hand, should be pruned very early in the spring, as these plants bloom on the new growth. All dead or broken wood should be trimmed from any class of shrubs, trees or roses. In trimming large shrubs and trees all limbs should be cut close to the branch from which they are sev- ered, making a slanting cut parallel to it. Where the limb is of much size the wound should be given a coat of paint or grafting wax to protect it from the weather until the bark has had time to close over it, which it will do in time, if no stub is left. A good mulch of manure or rough litter in winter will be of benefit to all shrubs and trees and of equal benefit during the dry, hot weather of summer, but it must be remembered that the roots of trees extend outwards to an equal area with the branches and a mulch to be effectual must cover an equal amount of HARDY SHRUBS AND TREES 165 space and be protected against the wind and anything which would disturb it. Evergreen branches laid over the mulch in winter form the best possible protection, or a strip of wire poultry netting will be useful. In summer it is simply necessary to keep chickens away from it to preserve it intact. Economy in the purchase of shrubbery may often be effected by a wise selection of varieties. Any considerable planting runs up into money fast, espe- cially if the larger sized shrubs are selected. Fortu- nately successful planting depends as much upon a number of plants of one variety as upon the size and distinction of the sorts. A dozen plants of one variety of spiraea, for instance, is far more effective than one plant each of twelve varieties — try it and see if I am not right. If, therefore, one has several strips of lawn to em- bellish with shrubbery and wishes to economize the expenditure as far as possible it will be found a most excellent plan to make a mixed planting on the most urgent section, selecting those shrubs which, by their manner of root formation, offer possibilities of rapid increase and use the products for the subsequent plantings. When these new offspring have reached a presenta- ble size they may be retained and the other sorts which can now be spared, removed to another loca- 166 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN tion, planting out the youngsters in their vacated positions. There are three classes of plants which lend them- selves very readily to propagation through root divi- sion, layering and root offshoots. The first is found in those plants which make an exuberant root system of many fine feeding roots and many stems. A good ex- ample of this class of plants is found in the Hydran- gea arhorescens, which may be lifted, pulled apart and the several plants reset without in any way disturb- ing its growth intention. In this respect it differs materially from Hydrangea paniculata, which, while making a generous root system, has but the one main stem and so is incapable of subdivision. The former, however, is similar in habit to many perennials which are increased by root division — as the shasta daisies, violets, daisies, etc. Often a plant of Hydrangea arhorescens purchased from the florist will admit of the removal of two or three smaller parts without seriously impairing the appearance of the original plant and if these are set out and well cared for they will quickly develop into blossoming plants, for this form is an early and relia- ble bloomer. Spiraea Anthony Waterer is another shrub which may be increased by pulling apart the roots ; indeed this plant is benefited by occasional treatment of this sort, doing much better and flowering more freely. HARDY SHRUBS AND TREES 167 Planted in front of taller shrubs it is a very desira- ble and reliable plant and if the faded flowers are removed after the spring florescence it will continue to produce flowers throughout the summer. One of the most easily propagated plants is found in the symphoricarpus or snow berry, indeed, in the case of this pretty shrub the difSculty is not to in- crease one 's stock, as the new growth is usually pros- trate the first year, lying supinely on the ground and, if left undisturbed, will throw out roots at the joints and rapidly produce attractive little plants as robust as the parent stock. Lifting the branches occasionally will prevent this but usually one likes to have the new plants form. I do. After becoming rooted the branch should be severed between the new and the parent plant. As the root growth is dense, consist- ing of a mass of healthy feeding roots, the young plants can be lifted almost any time and reset with- out much check to growth. The pale, pinky-white flowers come in mid-summer, followed by the white berries which remain on the bush well into the winter and are very attractive. Somewhat similar in its manner of increase is the deutzia Pride of Rochester — a magnificent shrub which challenges our admiration when covered with its drooping, bell-shaped flowers in late June and which, under favorable conditions assumes the pro- portions of a small tree. Like the symphoricarpus, 168 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN the branches are more or less inclined to a prostrate habit, or, because of their flexibility, are easily pegged down and root easily at the joint, but do not make as vigorous root growth and the joint should have a lit- tle earth drawn over it and be pegged down for best results. This shrub is so altogether desirable that half a dozen branches may be devoted to the produc- tion of new plants, one or more being produced from each branch. Of those shrubs which throw up suckers from the roots the lilac will occur to most people as a well-known example, so if in buying the newer, double-flowered, named sorts one will insist upon purchasing plants upon their own roots and not be satisfied with grafts, he may soon become possessed of a quite respectable planting of lilacs of notable size and color of bloom. The suckers should be re- moved as soon as they have had one season's growth for the protection of the parent plant, which will be much depleted in bloom by their presence if allowed to remain permanently. One of the most beautiful foliaged shrubs, the fern- leaved sumac, forms root rhizomes which send up fre- quent volunteer plants which should be removed and replanted. This is one of the most beautiful orna- mentals with which I am acquainted, quite rivaling the Japanese maples. The leaves are compound or pinnate, fifteen to eighteen inches long and of a dark, rich green on the upper surface, the stem a rich HARDY SHRUBS AND TREES 169 crimson, an elegant, fern-like spray which is very use- ful in cut flower work and in autumn turns to the most vivid crimson imaginable. It does best when protected from severe wind, from which it seems to shrink, distorting its symmetrical growth. In good rich soil a half dozen offshoots may appear the next year after planting, and once one has become familiar with its beauty all will be welcome. Another shrub or small tree with similar charac- teristics is the Aralia spinosa or Hercules' club, as it is commonly called. This also has the compound leaves, somewhat resembling the black walnut, but of gigantic proportions, between two and three feet in length and quite as broad, giving the tree a most tropical effect. It is very easily transplanted and a few trees in a clump are exceedingly effective. Where only a single shrub is wanted it is not at all difficult to hold it in check by hoeing out the shoots as they appear. The euonymus, or burning-bush, as it was known to the Indians, propagates itself by the means of its coral berries, which appear in quantities in late sum- mer and fall and remain on the bush until winter. One finds the volunteer plants appearing every spring in places where one least expects them and can lift and transplant them wherever desired. One which for years has been a resident of my garden has a pedi- gree dating back to early colonial days when its an- 170 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN cestor grew in the doorj^ard in the old homestead at Valley Forge. A grandmother journeying, a young wife, into what was then the wilderness of central New York, hrought with her to her new home a slip of the burning bush, to keep alive, in the new home, some familiar reminder of the old. In later years a daughter, still following the lure of the trail as it looked toward the setting sun, carried a younger scion t^ the far plains and woods of northern Indiana and when my own mother, still following the westering trail, made a new home for herself and little ones in Michigan, an offshoot from the bush in Indiana was donated, and grows and bears its chocolate col- ored flowers and ruddy berries as freely as in the limestone soil of Chester County, Pennsylvania. Another most attractive shrub which may be easily raised from spring sown seed is the Buddleia, a plant with long racemes — in the newer forms over twenty inches long — of violet mauve flowers of a delightful violet fragrance. Spring sown seed will often pro- duce flowering plants the first season and the second will attain a height of three to five feet and be a perfect bouquet of bloom throughout the summer. The branches are somewhat pendulous and in the young state are the better for a little support. They afford delightful material for cut flower work and the odor has that fugitive, elusive quality of the violet^ HARDY SHRUBS AND TREES 171 seeming to come from different directions at times and to elude one's search. It will be found a most excellent plant to use in connection with, the Spiraea Yan Houtte, as it comes into bloom after that splendid plant has rested on its laurels for the summer and keeps the hedge row alive with bloom and fragrance. LIST OF SHRUBS AND TREES LOCA- NAME SEASON HEIGHT COLOR TION* Abelia grandiflora Summer Small shrub White, rose X Y ^sculus Hippocastanum fl. pi June Tree W;hite X Y Amorpha Montana. . . .June 4'- 6' Violet, purple X Aralia spinosa Aug. 10'-15' White X Y Azalea amcena May 2' Crimson Y Azalea mollis May 2' Yellow, orange, flame Y Bajberry aquifolium.. .May 10'-12' Yellow flowers, scarlet berries X Y Barberry thunbergii . . . May-June 8'-10' Barberry vulgaris May- June 8'-10' Violet X Y Buddleia Variabilis Veitchiana July-frost 6' Violet, mauve X Y Calycanthus Floridus . . May-June 4'- 6' Purplish brown Y Caragana (Chamlagu).. April-May 3'- 4' Yellow X Caryopteris Mastacan- thus Summer-autumn 3'- 4' Lavender, blue X Catalpa bignonioides.. .June 20'-30' White, spotted XY Cephalanthus occiden- talis Mid-summer 4'- 6' Creamy white X Cerasus Hortensis fl. pi . April Tree Pink, white X Cercis Canadensis April Tree Crimson X Y Chimonanthus f ragrans.April 6'- 8' Yellow X Chionanthus \'irginica. . June 6'- 8' White X Y Cladrastus lutea June Tree White X Y Clethra alnifolia July- Aug. 3'- 5' Creamy white X Y CornusFlorida, rubra. .May-June 8'-10' White, pink Y Crataegus monogyna alba plena May- June 10-12' White X Cratasgus monogyna pauli May-June 10'-12' Bright scarlet X Cydonia Japonica May-June 4' Scarlet X Cytisus Laburnum .... June 6'- 8' Yellow X Y Daphne Cneorum May 6"-8" Pink X Y Desmodium penduli- florum Sept. 3'- 4' Rose, white X Y Dimorphanthus man- churicas, aurea All summer Tree Variegated leaved X Y *X indicates full sun; Y, partial shade; Z, full shade; XY and XYZ, locations combining sun and shade. m MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN LIST OF SHRUBS AND TREES (Continued) NAME SEASON Dimorphanthus argen- tea All summer Deutzia, Pride of Roch- ester June Deutzia crenata fl. pi. . .June Deutaia candidissima . .June Deutzia gracillis June Diervilla floribunda I\Iay-June Diervilla Candida May-June Elgeagnus lonpipes .... Summer Fagus sylvatica pur- purea. All summer Forsythia Fortunci .... April Halesia tetraptera. . . . .May Hydrangea grandiflora paniculata Aug.-Sept. Hydrangea arborescens.June Kalmia, latifolia, augus- tifolia May-June Lonicera Tartarica, alba, rosea June- Aug. Laburnum Cytisus .... May-June Magnolia Kobus May Magnolia purpurea. . . .AH summer Philadelphus coronarius fl. pi June Philadelphus purpurea- masculata June Pyrus Japonica May Potentilla f ruticoaa .... July-fall Rhodotypes kerrioides. . May Rhus Cotinus. Mid-summer Rhus glabra laciniata.. .All summer Rhus typhina All summer Sambucus nigra All summer Symphoricarpus race- mosus July-Aug. Spiraea Van Houttc May Spirsea Thunbergii May Spiraea, Anthony Waterer ..All summer Syringa, Mme. Casimir Perier May Syringa, President Grevy May Syringa, Souvenir de Louis Snathe May Syringa, Vir^iuite May Tamarix Af ncana May Tamarix Indica Aug.-Sept. Tamarix aestivalis July Vitex Agnus-castus .... Late summer Viburnum plicatum. . . . June Viburnum Lantana May-June Viburnum Carlesi " " Xanthoceras sorbif olia . !May LOCA- HEIGHT COLOR TION* Tree Variegated leaved X Y 6'- 8' White X Y 6'- 8' Pink X Y 6'- 8' White X Y 2' White X Y 6'- 8' Crimson X Y 6'- 8' White X Y 6'- 8' Orange fruit XY Tree Purple XY 8'-10' Yellow X Y Tree White XY 4'- 5' White X 5'- 6' White Y 4'- 8' White, rose Y 6' White, rose X Y Tree Yellow X Y Tree White X Y 10'-12' Purple X 10'-12' White X Y Z 10'-12' White, spotted purple X Y Z 4'- 6' Scarlet X Y 23^' Yellow X Y 4'- 5' White XY 8'- 9' Purple X Y 4' Crimson fruit X Y 4' Brilliant fall foliage X Y 6'-10' Golden X Y 3'- 4' Pink Z 5'- 6' White X Y 3'- 4' White XY lH'-2' Crimson XY 6'- 8' White XY 6'- 8' Blue XY 6'- 8' Reddish-purple X Y 4' Blush pink XY 8'-10' Pink X Y 8'-10' Pink X Y 8'-10' Pink X Y 6'- 8' Lilac X Y 6'- 8' White X Y 9'-12' - WHte X Y Dwarf J White X Y Tree White X CHAPTER XVI THE HARDY LILY BED From the middle of Au^st until the ground freezes one may plant bulbs of hardy lilies with certainty of successful florescence and growth the following spring, but if the planting is deferred until spring, nothing but disaster may be looked for. I know that many catalogues offer bulbs of hardy lilies and recommend their planting in the spring, but the bulbs so offered are those which remained unsold in the fall and this method is taken to reduce the loss as much as possible. Lily bulbs, to do well after transplant- ing, should remain out of the ground the shortest possible length of time and bulbs that have been out of the ground from August, September or even Octo- ber until spring are practically worthless. The well-known hardy garden lily candidum, or lily of the Annunciation, is one of the first to ripen its bulbs as it is the first to bloom. In August it completes its period of growth and takes a brief rest before throwing out the crown of leaves which re- main green throughout the winter; this is the season 173 174 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN at which the bulbs should be lifted and reset. They do not feel the change then and have time to make this fall growth in the new situation. In planting the candidum lilies the bulb should be placed but an inch or two below the surface, as this lily differs materially in this respect from other lilies, which, with hardly an exception, require deep planting. Like all lilies, a situation which affords protection from hot sun in summer and still affords sufficient sunshine, is necessary for best results; for this reason lilies do best when planted among the shrubbery or the plants of the hardy border. A mulch of lawn clippings during the hot, dry weather of summer, drawn well up about the stems of the plant, is beneficial. Anything which prevents the earth becoming hot and baked will make for the well- fare of the bulb. The most important lily after the candidum, and far excelling it in beauty, is the stately auratum. This is, of all lilies, the finest and most satisfactory. It should be planted by the dozen and if the length of the purse permits, by the hundred. Plant in well drained soil, for water about the bulbs is fatal to all lilies, and set the bulbs nine inches deep in thor- oughly dug and worked soil, well enriched with old, well-decayed manure, but be careful that none of this comes in contact with the bulb. A considerable hole should be made in the mellow soil to the required THE HARDY LILY BED 175 depth and a handful of clean, sharp sand placed in the bottom; on this place a little pad of sphagnum moss and on this set the bulb and pack about it suffi- cient sand to cover it and fill in the hole with earth and place a stick or stone to mark the location ox each bulb. A good sized stone placed at one side of each point, so that the lilies may come up on the same side of each stone is a safeguard when clearing off the bed in the spring and is less apt to be de- stroyed than a small stake. Where the drainage is not naturally good it will be time well spent to excavate the bed to a depth of two or more feet and fill in several inches of broken stone and gravel, discarding the subsoil, if undesirable, especially if it contains clay or hardpan and using the surface soil in its place and adding a good garden loam, leaf mold and some sharp sand to the surface layer. Worms and ants — two chief enemies of lilies — are much less apt to exist in well drained soil than in damp or unwholesome earth. For low beds of solid color or for borders on beds of taller lilies the little Siberian lily, tenuifolium, is exceedingly interesting and satisfactory. It grows only about a foot high and its dainty, recurved blos- soms are of the most dazzling vermilion scarlet imag- inable. It is one of the first to bloom and is per- fectly hardy. The bulbs are small and should not be planted quite so deep as the larger varieties. 176 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN Exceedingly popular and of the easiest culture, the Speciosum lilies are found in nearly all gardens where lilies are known and loved. They differ materially in manner of growth, being less erect than the candi- dums and auratums, and branching quite freely. The flowers, which are sharply recurved, show the pure white, green veined flower of Speciosum album, the white, splashed and spotted with crimson of Specio- sum roseum and the deeper colored crimson and rose of the Speciosum melpomene. The Speciosums are a more persistent lily than almost any other fine variety and should be planted in permanent quarters and not disturbed as long as they are doing well. Should trouble appear, however, the bulbs should be lifted during their period of rest and examined; usually it will be found that worms or ants have made nests in the bulbs, or decay has attacked them. In either case the bulbs should be thoroughly cleaned and all injured or decayed scales removed (usually these may be utilized to start new bulbs, as, if planted in clean sand, each scale Avill produce, at its base, a tiny bulblet which in two or three years will develop into a blossoming bulb) and the bulb reset in a new place in perfectly clean soil and with sharp sand about it. It is a question if any lily other than white will rival our affection for the old candidum, but there are several white lilies and white, tinted with other THE HARDY LILY BED ITT shades which are very desirable. Longiflorum multi- florum, so popular as an Easter lily, succeeds ad- mirably in the open ground. Lilium Philippense, a new lily from the Philippines, as its name indicates, comes very highly recommended and much resembles the Harrisi, but the flowers are rather more slender and much longer — nearly nine inches — the diameter of the flower being some six or seven inches, so it will be seen that it is something of a flower. The growth, however, is not as stately as that of the candidum or auratum, being only about two feet high. Browni is a beautiful lily, tall and statelj^, with trum- pet shaped flowers of a creamy white inside and pur- ple outside, while the beautiful Parryi — another trum- pet-shaped flower — has long, wax-like chalices of golden yellow, a color almost as desirable as white. Washingtonianum gigantium — a variety often reach- ing the imposing height of six or eight feet, and Hansoni, a beautiful yellow, dotted with purple, are other of the rarer sorts, while any number of orange red and spotted lilies are to be had, some of them quite desirable, but should be selected from the blos- soming plant rather than from the catalogues, to avoid disappointment. Protect the lily bed in fall, after the ground has frozen lightly, with a few inches of rough litter held in place with brush and do not remove until severe freezing weather has passed in the spring and then 178 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN only remove the coarsest, leaving sufficient to pro- tect the young shoots, in case of a late frost, for lily shoots are very tender when first they appear above ground and I have seen a whole bed of four or five inch shoots literally cooked by a late frost, and while that does not alwaj^s kill the bulb it does do away with any chance of bloom for that season. CHAPTER XVII BULBS FOR FALL PLANTING I WOULD like to urge every owner of a garden or a bit of permanent lawn, to make a special effort this fall towards the liberal planting of spring-blooming bulbs, for, believe me, they are the most valuable asset of the garden. Hardy shrubs and perennials are equally important in point of possession but do not yield the immediate return that one realizes from hardy bulbs. All of the bulbs which the florists offer for fall planting are specially prepared in Hol- land and in Japan for the trade and each bulb holds, folded in its enveloping sheath of scales or tissue, the embryo flower bud, which only requires the fos- tering care of nature to spring into insistent life and beauty at the awakening of spring. Crocus, hyacinth, tulips, scillas, anemones and all the fair cortege of swaying, fragrant blossoms are as certain to repay the trifling cost and trouble of their planting as weeds are to spring up, or grass to grow where it is not wanted. Shrubs give little, if any, return the first year and many of them re- 179 180 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN quire several years to come into sufficient size and beauty to be notable, but bulbs are at their best from the start and require little attention for several years after planting; many of them, especially the narcis- sus, jonquils, daffodils, and hardy lilies, requiring to be left entirely alone until a crowded condition makes it necessary to lift and divide the clumps and reset in fresh soil. Crocus are at their best when planted in the grass of the lawn, about trees, and in situations where it will not be necessary to run the lawn mower at too early a day, as they require time to mature their leaves before being cut, otherwise there will be no lovely chalices of white, of gold or of blue the follow- ing spring. In planting it is only necessary to lift a bit of sod and thrust the corm down an inch or more into the soil, pressing back the sod above it, and that is all. Buy the large, mammoth, many- flowered sorts which give a dozen or more blooms to a bulb and plant them singly and in groups in as care- less, natural a way as possible. Crocus may also be used to border beds of peren- nials or to fill in beds of larger bulbs such as tulips, hyacinths or lilies and are especially effective with scillas. The tulip and the hyacinth are, probably, first in the affection of the flower loving gardener. Certainly they are, of all spring-flowering bulbs, the most showy. BULBS FOR FALL PLANTING 181 Tulips have the advantage of being easily raised and so moderate in price that all may afford to plant liberally of them and it is always an economy, when planting this bulb to purchase by the hundred rather than by the dozen. If one is not desirous of geomet- rical designs it will be found cheaper to buy the mixed bulbs, but where beds of uniform color and height are desired one should study the catalogues and select those of uniform height and equal season of bloom. I like to grow tulips as a border to beds of hardy perennials or shrubbery, planting the bulbs about a foot apart and four inches deep. This al- lows the bulbs to make a natural increase into effective clumps. In planting in solid beds or as a border where the bulbs are to be lifted after ripening and replanted in the fall, they should be set but five inches apart. Hyacinths, which require practically the same treat- ment, should be planted at least seven inches apart and four deep. Like all bulbs they require rich, well drained soil but no manure should be allowed to come in contact with the bulbs and only old, well decayed manure should be incorporated in the soil of the bed. Narcissus, the most beautiful and satisfactory of all spring bulbs, should be planted in long rows for best effect and in a position where they can remain undisturbed for several years. I like a position on 182 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN the east side of a shrubbery border or hedge best, as the ground is then protected from the sun during the hottest weather, when the bulbs are ripening and preparing for another season's bloom, while the de- ciduous nature of the shrubs allows an abundance of sunshine early in the spring when the bulbs are in bloom. Plant narcissus four inches deep and twelve inches apart. This allows for the increase of the bulbs, which form in a circle around the orig- inal bulb and the clumps should not be disturbed until they have completely closed up the space be- tween them, and not even then until they begin to show, by a falling off in bloom, that this is neces- sary ; then the bulbs should be lifted and divided and reset in fresh soil. It is always well to set in triple rows, as the effect is better from the start, and, if only the largest bulbs are used for the new planting — the smaller being planted in some less conspicuous place to develop — the effect will be good from the start. Narcissus, daffodils and jonquils all require the same treatment. In selecting narcissus one should choose freely of the big, trumpet varieties, such as Horsfeldii, Em- peror, Empress, Sir Watkins, Mrs. Langtry and the like; these mammoth blooms are not only very beau- tiful and conspicuous, but have the additional merit of remaining in bloom a surprising length of time. The old-fashioned Von Sion should find a place in BULBS FOR FALL PLANTING 183 every garden and the Poet's Narcissus should be one of the most conspicuous; this and the Pheasant's Eye are exceedingly fragrant and a very satisfactory cut flower. There are many other spring-blooming bulbs of lesser importance and less certainty of culture which are useful for filling in odd corners, but none is of the importance of these few already mentioned and many of them fail entirely in the hands of the ama- teur. In sections where the snow remains on the ground all winter, snowdrops may be cultivated with success and are one of the most welcome harbingers of spring, but are unreliable in sections where the winter is broken with sudden changes of temperature. Where it is practicable to grow them they should be planted two inches deep and three inches apart iu well-drained soil. Blooming at about the same time, the Lebanon Flower, Puschkinia libanotica, is effective for planting back of lower-growing bulbs or for nat- uralizing among shrubbery where it may remain undisturbed for three or four years. This has large spikes of white flowers delicately striped with blue and resembles somewhat the single hyacinth. Orni- thogalums are striking plants with tall spikes of white flowers with jet-black centers and an agree- able perfume and should be grown in clumps of a half-dozen or more in the hardy border, or inter- spersed among shrubbery. 184 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN Although entirely hardy, bulbs do better if given a covering of rough manure or litter in the fall. This not only protects but prevents the heaving of the ground under the action of frost, a process which often tears the tender roots away from the bulb or, if planted too shallow, throws it out of the ground, either process proving fatal. PLANTING TABLE FOR BULBS Distance Depth apart Planting Name inches inches season Anemone 1 6 Spring Crocus 2 21/2 Fall Colchicums 3 3 Fall Hyacinths 4 7 Fall Jonquils 3 6 Fall Narcissus 4 12 Fall Scillas 3 3 Fall Snowdrops 2 3 Fall Tulips 4 5 Fall Ixias 2 3 Fall Winter aconite 2 3 Fall The ''depth" indicates the soil above the bulb. CHAPTER XVIII PALL WORK IN THE GARDEN Fall work in the garden should really commence about the fifteenth of August, at which time one should begin to make sowings of hardy perennials for the next year's garden. I always try to get my pansy seed into the ground by the middle of the month if possible and to lift and move my Annuncia- tion lilies at that time. They are then dormant and the disturbance does them no harm, though even a week later it will, as they will have again begun preparation for the next season's period of bloom. This, too, is the season for lifting and resetting all of the narcissus family. "Wistarias can be trimmed this month with advantage also. Where one has the convenience of a coldframe or a spent hotbed the conditions for sowing seeds of hardy perennials are all that could be desired, but where these are not at hand or the hotbed has been utilized for summer plants, like crinums or amaryllis, then one must improvise a plant bed in some out- of-the-way corner. Any bit of good, friable soil will 185 186 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN answer. It should be made fine and mellow and should, by preference, be surrounded with a board frame. This need be but a few inches high and may be just four boards held together with stakes, or the boards may be nailed together at the corners and the frame set over the ground after the seeds are planted. If there is any probability of the ground being dis- turbed by chickens, cats or dogs, it will be best to ^ail lath across the top of the boards, placing them the width of the lath apart. This is a good plan any way, as it affords a shade for tender little seedlings. Seeds of many hardy perennials may be sown in the fall, making a distinct gain in time and also lessening the amount of work to be done in the spring, when there is always more to do than one can find time for. Among the seeds which it best pays to sow are the antirrhinum, digitalis, delphinium, poppies — espe- cially perennial varieties — nicotianas, primrose, or cowslips, lychnis, sweet alyssum, golden saxatile, hi- biscus and the like. Such fine seed as poppies do not need to be covered ; merely scatter as thinly as possible over the soil. As poppy seed always comes up much too thick no mat- ter how thinly one trys to sow it, it is a good plan to mix a packet of the seed with a teacup full of dry sand and scatter this as thinly and evenly as possible. FALL WORK IN THE GARDEN 187 Larger seed, like that of the pansy, can be sown in shallow drills, pressing the ridges of soil back upon it and pressing all down firmly with a piece of smooth board. This pressing down of the soil is very impor- tant and insures the tiny seed against drying out, as might occur, did it lie in ever so small a hole between two grains of earth. Press all these particles of earth together and the little seed is safe. Plant each variety of seed in a section by itself, as was done with the spring sown seeds in the hot- bed, separating them with strips of wood and label- ing each with name and date of sowing. "Water the bed thoroughly, but with a very fine-rosed watering pot, unless the soil is quite moist, when only a light watering will be needed. Cover for the first few days witTi a newspaper, or until the seedlings appear. Then remove so that they may have all the sun and air possible. If, later in the season, before severe cold weather, there should be an empty coldframe or hotbed avail- able, the more tender sorts of plants may be trans- planted into it, setting the little plants an inch or more apart each way, according to the amount of room.. Pansy plants will come up and make consid- erable growth before cold weather and it is a dis- tinct advantage to transplant into a coldframe anc'. winter under glass. Handled in this way they should be showing buds when ready to transplant into the 188 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN open ground in April and be in bloom by the first of May. The plants which are left in the open beds should be protected at the approach of cold weather by hav- ing sash, boards or canvas placed over the beds — anything which will shed water — and being lightly banked with leaves. Evergreen boughs, when avail- able, make the very best of covering. In growing the hardy grasses it is quite important that they should be started in spring and wintered over in a coldframe and set into permanent places in the following spring. Treated in this way, one will soon come into possession of a valuable stock of these stately plants at a very nominal cost. ]\Iost hardy perennials and shrubs which bloom in the spring may be moved in the fall with marked benefit, providing the work is done early enough to allow the roots to become established before cold weather. Deciduous shrubs should not be lifted be- fore the leaves have fallen or begun to fall, but after that time the work should progress as rapidly as possible. Spring blooming plants which have an evergreen crown of leaves may be lifted any time after they have completed their season's growth, but such plants as the Japanese anemone should not be disturbed at this season. These and the chrysanthe- mums, golden glow, tritomas and other late bloomers are better divided and moved in the spring. FALL WORK IN THE GARDEN 189 As soon as the first frost has killed the summer annuals the beds should be gone over and all dead growth removed and the beds raked over and put in shape for spring work. It is an excellent plan, when the beds are to remain empty until late spring, to sow some sort of a cover crop — crimson clover, rye or the like — and turn this under in the spring sufficiently early for it to decay before putting in the new crop of annuals or other flowers. This re- places the constantly decreasing supply of humus, as well as protects the ground from leaching during winter — another source of wasted fertility. If one has found a certain planting unsuccessful, either from an unfavorable location or from a poor arrangement of form and color, one can, at this time, rectify the error by changing the arrangement. One of the most interesting features of gardening is this studying out of the question of form and color har- mony. It is not always possible to strike just the right note in the planting of unfamiliar things, but it is always possible to learn from experience and to profit by one's failures. If one has found a plant- ing unharmonious and is at a loss as to just what new combination to try, one can quite easily solve the problem by gathering the flowers of the plant in question and carrying them around the garden, placing them by the side of different plants until one is found which harmonizes with it. If the plant is a 190 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN large, free-flowered one so that large sprays can be taken, these may be stuck in the ground and one can retire to a distance and note the effect. Flowers which combine well in a bouquet will always combine well in a garden. One of the combinations I have always found suc- cessful is scarlet and white. Nicotiana affinis and salvias always are fine together; so also are scarlet lychnis and white clematis. There is a soft, rose- colored lychnis which, when it can be induced to bloom sufficiently early, as in warm, protected bor- ders, is lovely with the white of Deutzia gracilis. In- deed, white is a perfectly safe combination for mixing with any other color. Most shades of mauve will harmonize with yellow and with many shades of rose and scarlet, but do not go well with reds or magentas. At this time of the year one should repair all gar- den construction, as of fences, trellises, pergolas, seats, gates, paths and the like. An already weak- ened part is quite apt to succumb under a winter storm or avalanche of snow or sleet. Then, too, it is a distinct advantage to have all this part of the work out of the way before the busy days of spring, when there is always so much more to do than there is time for. The fall is, of all times, the best for getting rid of weeds, as at this time all such growths may be pulled up and burned, preferably on the spot in which they grew, and thus the seedling of FALL WORK IN THE GARDEN 191 another crop be prevented. If carried any distance there is danger of scattering the seeds, and those already shed beneath the plant are not destroyed but are left to germinate and make trouble another year. If all seed pods are kept off of perennial plants the care of the garden will be much simpli- fied, as seedling plants are just as much trouble to eradicate as any other form of weed growth. Phlox, especially, should not be allowed to self -sow, as it is sure to prove a nuisance, especially when it gains a foothold in the paony beds, as it will come up in the clumps and it is impossible to dislodge it without injury to the pseonies. Frequently it becomes neces- sary to lift the plants and disentangle the roots from the phlox. CHAPTER XIX WINTER PROTECTION The whole subject of winter protection resolves itself into an intelligent understanding of what one should protect from, the various conditions of the winter weather and the habits and constitutions of the things to be protected. People living in regions of perpetual winter snow, where the fall comes early and remains on the ground until well into the spring months have the question practically settled for them offhand; it is merely necessary to leave things to Mother Nature who will take excellent care of them. There is no covering which man can devise which will equal in efficiency the blanket of cold, white snow, as it protects equally from cold, sudden changes to a higher temperature and sunshine, which odd as it may seem, is really worse for a plant at the winter season of its existence than severe cold, for this reason — the sunshine stirs the plant to life, drawing the sap up into twigs and branches, then the cold swoops down, freezing the imprisoned sap and ex- panding it beyond the capacity of the plant's cells, 192 WINTER PROTECTION 193 "whicli, unable to stand the strain, are ruptured and the plant destroyed. Any protection which ignores this condition must prove ineffective. The most perfect covering is one which preserves the most even temperature, and for this re-ison it is best to defer placing any kind of covering over plants, trees or shrubs till they have completed their season of growth and shed their leaves and become practically dormant. If, in addi- tion to this, the ground is already frozen so that the protection ma}^ hold the frost in the ground, so much the better. To keep the majority of plants in cold storage from the time they are laid down in the fall until they are awakened in the spring should be the aim with all but the most tender of plants. Tender roses and water lilies, on the other hand, are benefited by a covering which keeps out frost, though not excluding air, for plants need air even during their long winter's sleep. For this reason it is al- ways well, in protecting such plants as do not die down to the ground in fall, to give the necessary amount of covering and then protect the covering itself by boards or something which will shed water, always remembering to allow room for the circula- tion of air. In covering single plants of low growth it is generally convenient to pile leaves lightly about it and then turn a box over the whole. This not only keeps out wet but retains the leaves in place, but in 194 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN doing this it will be well to knock out both ends of the box and set it with the closed side against the weather, then if the leaves do become wet they will quickly dry out and not remain a wet, moldy mass about the crown of the plant. But dr^mess about the crown of a plant is impos- sible if a poorly drained soil permits water to set- tle about the roots in winter. There are many plants which are not injured, but rather benefited, by a wet soil in summer, but only marsh and aquatic plants enjoy a damp bed in winter, so where there is not sufficiently good drainage to insure the prompt shedding of water the bed should be raised suffi- ciently, by the addition of more soil or by cutting down the surrounding soil or the digging of a drain- age channel about and away from the plant, fol- lowing the slope of the land, to insure against trou- ble. Some plants are not injured by the presence of ice about the roots in winter, while others are very sensitive. I have a beautiful variegated woodbine or vitis on the north side of the house where the ice banks up over the roots every winter, but it comes out flourishing in the spring, though not afforded the slightest protection throughout our long, severe north- em winters ; the drainage, however, is perfect. I think it always is better to leave a plant unpro- tected, as to its top, if it is hard}^ enough to endure WINTER PROTECTION 195 this treatment, but few plants are injured by a good mulch of rough barn-yard litter about the roots, which not only protects but feeds. Where a plant is protected beyond its actual needs a tender growth is likely to be favored in the late days of winter or early spring, which the cold, usually following on unseasonable weather, injures. Anyway, this tender growth is seldom as desirable as the hardier more rugged putting forth of the unprotected plant and the greatest difficulties I have met with in wintering plants has come from injudicious protec- tion—protection which seemed demanded but proved enervating to the plant. Plants which die down to the ground in winter usually have sufficient top growth, if broken down about the plant, to give all the protection needed. Plants which do not die down, but make a winter crown of leaves, like the hollyhocks, Canterbury bells, and pansies, are often a problem, as they require a considerable amount of air during winter. Ever- green boughs provide the very best covering, as they shut out wind and sun and admit air. Where plants are grown in long rows I have had good results by driving a few notched stakes into the ground be- tween the rows lengthwise of the beds, placing poles on these and hanging evergreen boughs over the poles, the ends trailing on the ground. This is an excel- lent arrangement for roses, azaleas, rhododendrons 196 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN and the like, also for pansies, foxgloves and flowers of that sort. In places where the beds are not too much in evidence, and evergreen boughs not avail- able, corn fodder may be used and the sweet-corn patch may have its usefulness extended by furnishing a warm covering for the taller plants in need of shelter. In protecting tender roses, azaleas and rhododen- drons, however, I have found it profitable to further protect the roots by placing pieces of sod about them, bringing it well up about the stems and fastening it there with stout cord. Most of the injury to tea roses occurs near the ground where the frost heaves the earth away from the stem, admitting the cold, and it is no unusual thing to find the stems rup- tured at this point. This the sod effectually prevents. Small plants may be quite covered in this way and will come through the winter in fine shape. Vines of a tender nature, especially clematis, should be laid down if practicable and covered with dry leaves and boards. Hardy vines, especially those which cling naturally to walls, as the trumpet vine, Boston ivy and the like, should not be disturbed. The Boston ivy is somewhat tender and may be protected during its first winter or two by tacking burlap, matting or old carpet over it, first securing the ends of the burlap, etc., to strips of wood and securing these in turn to the wall or trellis on which the WINTER PROTECTION 197 vine is growing. It is a good plan, in putting up trellises or netting for vines, to have their winter protection in mind and arrange them so that they can be released with little trouble. Wire netting which is stapled firmly to a wall cannot be easily re- moved. Better staple it to a stout piece of wood which in turn may be attached to the house by hooks at the top, and to stout stakes driven into the ground at the base. Bulbs and hardy lilies need little protection other than a mulch of rough barn-yard manure. All trees and shrubs are improved by the same treatment. In the vegetable garden the tender globe artichokes should have the large leaves cut back and the crowns of the plants covered with coal ashes. The cold frames should be provided with water-proof coverings and mats for the more severe months of the winter. It is seldom that anything is needed inside the frames. The lily pools should have the water drained off, the pool filled with leaves and a cover of boards or canvas put over all. The cover should extend a cou- ple of feet on all sides of the pool and the leaves be stuffed tightly between the edges and the pool, as quite as much damage results to the walls of the pool from the heaving of the ground under frost as from frost inside the pool. If one is the fortunate possessor of a few discarded 198 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN doors they may be made useful in affording a snu^ corner to some tender shrub too large to burlap. The door should be placed at an angle to shut off the sun and the prevailing wind and firmly braced in position or it may cause far more damage than it prevents. Care of house plants during winter depends so largely upon the conditions under which they are to be grown that only general hints will be really prac- tical. When there is a conservatory, where the plants can, at will, be shut away from the atmosphere of the living room and given a semi-greenhouse condi- tion, the matter resolves itself into a simple matter of heat, moisture and proper ventilation; but where one must depend upon a bay window, which is really a part of the living room, or even just the ordinary living room windows, then the matter becomes more complicated and the wise flower lover will content herself or himself with growing those plants least exacting in their requirements. It is possible, however, so to arrange a bay window of fair proportions that it becomes, in effect, a minia- ture conservatory or greenhouse, and this without an unreasonable outlay. The important point here is a watertight floor which may be separated from the liv- ing room floor, either by sinking it somewhat below the level, by introducing a strip of wood in the shape of a sill so that any water on the floor of the bay WINTER PROTECTION 199 may not intrude upon the living room floor, or by the construction of a shallow groove at this point, connected with the outside of the house so as to carry off any surplus moisture. For, while we are not planning to convert the bay window into an aquatic garden, we do want to make it possible to spray the occupants of the bay thoroughly over, under and through their foliage and, no matter with how fine a spray this is done, more or less water will trickle to the floor. Of course the floor must be cov- ered with some waterproof material, tile, cement or even linoleum, but if this can be arranged, it is al- most safe to say that one may make a success of almost any variety of plants one wishes to grow, provided there is the proper amount of sunshine and even ordinary care. We hear a great deal about coal stoves and fur- naces being uncongenial sources of heat, and that plants will not thrive where gas is used. I do not agree with this theory in its entirety. I have grown the most delicate flowers successfully in rooms heated with an ordinary coal stove by giving them abundant room to grow, warm south and east windows and showering them thoroughly every day or two. I have also had excellent success with furnace heated rooms, but in this case the furnace used contained a very large and effective water pan in which the water was 200 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN always at the boiling point, so that abundant mois- ture was supplied to the atmosphere. Some arrangement for closing off the bay from the adjoining room should be provided, if possible, either in the way of curtains, sliding glass doors or similar means, as this will allow one to regulate the temperature and moisture at will. A register in the bay with a pan of water inside, occupying about half of the opening in the register, is an excellent arrangement, as there is, then, a constant current of warm, moist air arising. If one wishes to grow a considerable variety of flowers it will be well to fit the tops of the lower sash with shelves for the accommodation of such plants as require a higher temperature, for it must be remembered that heat rises and the top of the sash is much warmer than the sill. One should never crowd the flowers, no matter what accommodations you are able to give them. Give each plant sufficient room so that no part of it touches its neighbor; if you have any kind of success with your plants this winter they will grow, and they will blossom, and blossoms need room, not alone to bloom but to exhibit their beauty and this they cannot do if crowded together, and don't, don't, don't waste the energy of your plants by constantly turning them around in a mistaken desire to give each part its supply of sunshine. The plant will at- WINTER PROTECTION 201 tend to that if you will just leave it alone and, in a few weeks, will present a solid bank of perfect, beau- tifully colored foliage with buds springing from every twig. No one thing, unless it is poor drainage, will so surely cause the buds of many plants to blast as changing their position when they are coming into bloom. It is always a misfortune that plants in the house have to receive their light from one side, but, as one 's house or bays are usually arranged, this is unavoid- able, and the best thing to do is to give the plant room and let it adjust itself. Another very common mistake in growing house- plants is to give them too large a pot which the plants waste their energy in a vain attempt to fill with roots. Of course there are a few plants which make an excessive root growth, such, for instance, as the Asparagus Sprengeri or the cyperus. These both require large pots and generous feeding to be at their best at any time, while, on the other hand, geraniums, which make a small growth of fibrous root, require rather limited quarters in which to do their best. It is better to grow plants in quite small pots and shift frequently into those just one size larger as they fill the pots with roots, not before, and alwaj^s, always give abundant drainage of broken crock, char- coal and sphagnum moss in the bottom of the pots. The bigger the pots the more drainage material is 202 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN needed, and be sure and leave sufficient room at the top — at least an inch — for watering. And right here is where the average amateur falls down — in watering her plants. Of course there are people who care enough to grow plants who some- times forget to water them at all, but the opposite course is more universal and plants are deluged with water day after day whether they need it or not. With facilities for spraying it will not be necessary to water the earth in the pots of any but the most moisture-loving plants, until they are quite dry ; then sufficient water should be given to soak thoroughly the ball of earth, so that it runs through into the saucer — which should always be emptied as soon as the drainage has ceased. Sometimes it will be noticed that water runs through at once; this indicates one of two things — either the earth is so filled with fibrous roots that the water cannot penetrate and runs off between the earth and the sides of the pot, or the earth is too hard for it to pass through. In the first place the plants should be repotted or, if this is not practicable, a sharp stick should be run down through the ball, opening up numerous channels for the water, and the surface soil thoroughly stirred. Plants in this condition are much benefited by standing in a basin of water until the earth is thoroughly soaked. Where it happens that the earth in the pot is hard it should be stirred up from the surface as much as WINTER PROTECTION 203 possible and watered by standing in a basin of water. Such a condition, however, indicates the use of poor soil, soil containing too little humus, and it would be well to repot with a good compost containing one part leaf mold, one part sharp sand, one of good garden loam and one of old, well-rotted manure. Plants are in much better condition for watering when the surface soil is kept loose and friable. Plants which have been repotted in good, rich soil in late summer or fall should not need fertilizer during the winter, but where they are growing and blooming freely it sometimes seems called for, and for an indoor fertilizer I have found nothing better than the fol- lowing. One and one-half part (ounces or pounds) Nitrate of Soda. One part (ounces or pounds) Sulphate of Potash. One-half part (ounces or pounds) Phosphate of Soda. Mix and pulverize the material thoroughly. When required for use put a rounding tablespoonful of the mixture in a gallon of hot water and use when cool in the proportion of a teacupful to a six-inch pot. Of course one may use the commercial fertilizer, which is much cheaper, but the ingredients from the druggist are strictly pure, odorless and go much further. 204 MxVKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN All the asparagus ferns require a fertilizer during winter; indeed the only way to grow these plants indoors is to use fertilizers, for unless this is done the plants require so large a pot as to be unmanage- able. Asparagus Sprengeri, when grown in tubs or window boxes out of doors in the summer, makes a magnificent growth and, if potted in fall in a twelve- inch pot and kept well watered and fertilized, makes a fine showing all winter and is quite sufficient, in itself, for the decoration of one window or corner of the room. The pot should stand on a pedestal where the long sprays can sweep down unrestrained and one which is easily turned is preferable, for, al- though this plant requires little light, it should be turned occasionally towards the light to prevent the sprays turning up and backwards. Another most satisfactory plant for the house is found in the aspidistra. This plant needs only to be potted in good compost, containing a reasonable amount of old, well decayed manure or some bone meal, or both, regularly supplied with water and the leaves kept free from dust by sponging or showering. It does well in almost any window, but probably bet- ter in an east or north window where a little sun- shine comes. Once established, it should not be dis- turbed, as it dislikes change. For this reason the pot should not be turned around in the window. All the primrose family make satisfactory winter WINTER PROTECTION 205 plants, especially the Baby primroses. These are practically ever bloomers and require only to have the withered flower stalks removed as they fade. Primroses appear to best advantage when grown in window boxes, making that loveliest of all things — a primrose window. Choose clear scarlets and pure whites by preference. Plunge the pots in boxes, filling in between with sand or sphagnum moss, kept constantly moist and they will be things of beauty all winter. Do not overwater and see that the drain- age in the pots is sufficient and that the crown of the plants stands rather high in the pot, so that water may run from, rather than settle around, the crown, but always allow an inch of space between the soil and the top of the pot in potting any plant, for the necessary watering. Calceolarias and cinerarias are most satisfactory plants for winter blooming, as they are certain of bloom and easily cared for. Cinerarias are apt to be infested with green lice and for this must be sprayed with tobacco tea, or if not in bloom may be treated with hot water— at about 136° if the plant is to be dipped, which should always be done if practicable, or 140° if used as a spray. The hot water bath may be used in place of insecticides in nearly all cases of infected plants with superior re- sults. The hot bath not only kills all insect life, but also cleanses and refreshes the foliage. It is sure 206 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN death to the red spider — that pest so difficult to dis- lodge. In using fill a large pail or dish, place a cloth or paper over the soil and place the hand on this, straddling the stem of the plant and dip the entire plant in the water, holding it there at least a minute or while you count sixty. Almost all greenhouse plants may be grown from seed started in flats in the house in early spring or in flats in a hotbed, potted off as soon as large enough to handle into thumb pots and plunged in boxes of wet sand in the open air in a sheltered position — on the east side of the house, if possible. They should be shifted into larger — just one size larger — pots as they fill with roots until by fall they should be in six-inch pots and full of buds ready for winter bloom- ing. Where one has a penchant for geraniums it will be well worth while to plant seed of Lady Wash- ington or Pelargonium geraniums in spring for win- ter blooming. These are so much finer than the zonale geraniums and so much more certain to bloom that they should always find a place in the winter window garden. If one has a few palms, aspidistras and ferns, then one may supply blossoming plants by planting freely of spring blooming bulbs such as tulips, narcissus, hyacinths, crocus and the like. Begin planting in September and continue until the first of December, planting in window boxes, by preference, but putting WINTER PROTECTION Wl a considerable number of Easter lilies, narcissus and like tall-growing things in pots — at least three large bulbs of narcissus or tulips in a four-inch pot. Place these in a cool dark cellar until the pots fill with roots and growth shows above ground, then bring up in relays as needed. In this way one may have abundance of the loveliest flowers all winter, and these forced bulbs have a freshness and spring-time beauty not approached by any other class of plants. They are perfectly certain of bloom, inexpensive and of such easy culture as to be perfectly safe for the amateur to undertake. As far as possible plants should be protected from a low temperature at night but this should be done by making the windows secure against draught and keeping the temperature of the room above freezing rather than by moving them out of the windows at night — an undertaking full of annoyance and labor and likely to result in more or less damage to plants. A night temperature of about fifty degrees will keep plants in good shape. Should plants become frosted, however, they should be at once removed to a cool dark room where the temperature can be lowered to barely above freezing, until they thaw out, or they may be taken to a cold hath room and sprayed with water not over 33 degrees. After being frozen all injured leaves and twigs should be removed and the plant brought into as rapid growth as possible. CHAPTER XX PLANT ENEMIES AND INSECTICIDES From tlie burgeoning of the first leaf until the lay- ing aside of the garden after the completion of its season of growth, all sorts of enemies dispute the possession of flower and leaf. We plant a garden in April fondly cherishing the happy delusion that it belongs to us, but, apparently, this is not the case, as every bug and worm and beetle and fly known to science claims squatter 's-right to the free enjoyment of our possessions. Almost the first pest to put in appearance will be aphis of all sorts and colors, but of a uniformly ravenous appetite. Usually the first plants to be af- fected will be the roses. These, indeed, may be said to set the pace for the garden pests, for, first or last, nearly all those which make life a burden for the gardener make their initial appearance in the rose bed. The aphis first appears as a fly, a tiny, and, under the microscope, a beautiful creature of gauzy wing and slender body. In some species of aphis eggs 208 PLANT ENEMIES AND INSECTICIDES 209 are laid by this winged female, which in turn hatch into other egg-laying creatures. In some cases the young produced in the first few broods are viviperous, that is, they are produced alive, a complete insect and only the last brood of the season are produced from eggs which remain in crevices of the bark of the plant until the following spring, when they hatch, producing the winged female of the first appearance. The result, as far as the plants are concerned, is the same, the rapid destruction of the foliage and serious injury of the plant. There are several remedies which may be resorted to, both as remedial and as preventive measures. Tobacco dust sprinkled over the young shoots before the leaves develop will often keep them in check. The hot-water bath is effective after they have gained a foot-hold, and where the bushes are of sufficient size to be dipped into a basin of hot water, forms one of the most effectual and satisfactory reme- dies used. In using water for dipping it should not exceed one hundred and thirty-five degrees in heat, a somewhat higher temperature being practicable when used as a spray. Plants can stand a hot water bath which is death to all soft bodied insects. Kero- sene emulsion, if care is taken not to use it of suffi- cient strength to burn the foliage, is usually efficient on all but the gray lice; for this variety of louse I have found nothing really fatal. They infest my honeysuckle and defy all the insecticides I can bring 210 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN to bear upon them. I tliink they are some special breed sent to keep me humble. Rose slug — small green caterpillars which feed on the underside of the leaves or draw two leaves to- gether as a shelter while they eat out the buds from the tips of the shoots — are usually the next pest to put in an appearance. These may be destroyed by hand-picking or by spraying the underside of the leaves with whale oil solution, or dusting with helle- bore when the foliage is damp. Rose thrips are more troublesome than any other insect, as they leave the plant at the least disturb- ance, returning when all is quiet to complete their work. Whale oil soap syringed on the underside of the leaves is the best remedy. Readana sprayed on and under the foliage at intervals of a few days for two or three applications will usually remove them for the season. Red spider, which affects all hard wooded plants at times, can only be kept at bay by a moist atmosphere, as this particular insect thrives in a dry, hot atmos- phere, but once it has gotten a foothold, there is no better remedy than the hot water bath. Spraying with Fir Tree oil is also effectual. Aster beetles are quite sure to put in an appear- ance as soon as the flowers show bloom. The prac- tical remedy here and in the case of rose bugs, is hand picking. These bugs are sluggish insects and if PLANT ENEMIES AND INSECTICIDES 211 they are picked and dropped in a pan of water con- taining a little kerosene, early in the morning, when they are still sluggish, they will soon be disposed of. Where this is considered too tedious the plants may be sprayed with either Paris green solution or ar- senate of lead. Mildew on roses, sweet peas and other flowers is usually controlled by shaking flour of sulphur over the plants when they are wet with dew. In hot, muggy weather one should not water late in the afternoon plants inclined to mildew. All fungoid diseases indicated by the browning or spotting of the foliage should be handled with a spray of Bordeaux mixture, getting the wash onto every part of the plant and repeating two or three times in the season. Eoses, hollyhock, clematis, foxgloves and many other plants are subject to various fungoid diseases and it is a good plan to spray all plants known to be suscep- tible before the blight appears. Aquilegias, asters, cosmos and dahlias are much troubled with a little worm which invades the stalk just below the surface of the soil. In the ease of the aquilegia this is a little pink worm about half an inch long which excavates a nest in the crown of the plant where it changes into a chrysalid and takes its winter nap. Its presence is first detected by the wilting of the top of the plant when it is usually too late to save the plant. If the plant is taken hold of 212 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN by the top it will often come entirely away, revealing the worm and its nest. Sometimes there is sufficient growth about the lower side of the crown to supply a new plant and it is only necessary to destroy the worm. When the plant has just begun to wilt if the entrance hole of the worm is found and a sharp wire or hairpin introduced, the worm can be found and killed and often the plant will recover. The earth should always be drawn up above the wound. The treatment is the same for all plants affected with borers and the preventive measure is to pour Paris green solution about the roots of the plants at inter- vals from the time they are set until fully grown. Where asters have been affected with what is known as the ^* aster disease '^ they should not be planted in the same ground again for two or three years. In treating plants for insects of any and all kinds it may be simplified by remembering that for all bugs, worms or lice which eat the plants Paris green or arsenate of lead is the standard remedy, but that these insecticides are powerless against those which do not eat the tissue of the plants but merely suck their juice. For these and all soft bodied pests, kerosene emulsion is the remedy ; this and hot water. For all hard shelled beetles and scale the caustic washes like whale oil, caustic potash, lime sulphur solution and the like are best. While formulas are given for the preparation of all PLANT ENEMIES AND INSECTICIDES 213 insecticides it will be much easier for the amateur to buy the various preparations on the market and use according to directions. Kerosene emulsion paste, ready to use by adding water, and Bordeaux mixture and lime sulphur wash are especially handy to use and save a tedious prep- aration, INSECTICIDES Paris Green. Use 1 pound with an equal amount of thoroughly slaked lime in from 100 to 300 gallons of water and keep thoroughly stirred when using. Arsenate of Lead. Use the prepared paste form at the rate of one pound to fifty gallons of water. Kerosene Emulsion. Dissolve one-half pound of soap in one gallon of boiling water, add two gallons of kerosene and force through a force pump re- peatedly until it forms a milk-like emulsion. Add twent3^-five gallons of water and use. If allowed to stand for any length of time it must be re-churned with the pump, as the oil will have separated some- what from the water. Use rain water for mixing. Where it is necessary to use hard water, milk should be substituted for the soap, using one gallon of milk to two of kerosene or substitute quarts for gallons in small gardens. Combined Insecticide and Fungicide. Mix four ounces Paris Green or one pound of Arsenate of Lead 214 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN with fifty gallons of Bordeaux mixture and use for spraying rose bushes, and all plants addicted to fun- goid disease and the attacks of leaf-eating insects. In using Bordeaux it is best to buy the commercial preparation. Hellebore. — Mix thoroughly one ounce of fresh white hellebore and three gallons of water. These few formulas if persistently used will be sufficient to keep the garden free from insects of all kinds but must be used in season to be of value. Wood alcohol, used in full strength with an at- omizer, is another very effectual insecticide for any insect with which it comes in contact and is espe- cially valuable in the rose garden. It has the ad- vantage of being convenient to use, as the atomizer can be kept in one's garden basket or even slipped in the pocket and so be at hand to use when one notices the presence of insects on the plants. CHAPTER XXI THE VALUE OF A DEFINITE COLOR SCHEME IN THE GzVRDEN The idea which seems to prevail in most gardens is to fill it with flowers and still more flowers, adding whatever caprice of the moment dictates or whatever novelty happens to strike the fancy from time to time. The color relations which these new additions may bear to the old inhabitants of the garden is ap- parently little thought of, if indeed it ever occurs to the owner of the garden that as long as a flower is a flower and has individual merit there can be any possible objection to its presence; in fact, with the average gardener, it seems really to be a matter of pride to possess as many varieties of plants as pos- sible. But one has not learned the true art of garden- ing until one learns to hold his hand and to go slowly when adding to a garden's store. Especially is this true when the garden, as it ex- ists, is a happy expression of color and beauty. It is a safe conclusion that the average garden should be subtracted from rather than added to. If the garden, in its entirety is the result of carefully 215 216 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN thought out plans then there is little need of caution, as the owner is not apt to run amuck among strange flowers of unknown colors, but even here it is well to pause and consider whether it is not well to let well enough alone; at least one should always take the precaution of informing himself as to just the color and shade of all new introductions to the garden. A trial garden is perhaps the most valuable posses- sion a gardener can have. Here plants may be grown experimentally, and transferred to the permanent garden as they prove their fitness, and given just the conditions and environment that will bring out their good points to perfection. To emphasize the value of a color scheme one has but to think of various inharmonious colors and imag- ine them together, not for one day or for several but for the entire season of their bloom, through a succession of years. It is not bad color work that a number of colors should occur in any one garden but it is bad work when several tones of a color* clash. As an example, blue and red may appear in the same garden with much less discord than scarlet and magenta. If one has no color scheme and is at a loss to invent one a visit to the milliner's and the massing together of quantities of flowers will very soon demonstrate how much better the effect of the proximity of certain colors is than of others, and having determined this one may lay plans accord- A COLOR SCHEME IN THE GARDEN 217 ingly. When one desires a great diversity of color then one must remember that white is a great peace- maker and intersperse white flowers liberally between any shades that have the least taint of enmity. It is seldom the case that one needs to discard a favorite flower because of an inharmonious shade, as nearly all flowers come in a wide diversity of colors and tones and among these one may select a suitable one. Where one is uncertain as to what to use or what he really wishes in color the adoption of some one color — ^say, yellow — with white will produce a charm- ing color effect to which another year, if one's taste has sufficiently crystallized, one may add another color, say, blue or pink, and have a color scheme that should be satisfying in the extreme. But the use of one color in a garden is a fascinating development of color work and through its adoption one learns much of the possibilities along these lines, makes the ac- quaintance of many heretofore unknown members of old families of flowers and finds it altogether a de- lightful study. Or one may have a definite color scheme for each season of the year — spring, fall — and fill the early garden with masses of brilliant colored tulips of the desired color — scarlet or soft pink — with hyacinths to correspond and the white of crocus and other bulbs, while the summer garden may be emphasized with S18 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN blue of iris, delphiniums, monkshood, forget-me-nots, anehusas, blue pansies, bachelor buttons, browallias, lobelias and the like, and the fall garden may be gorgeous with the yellow and white of chrysanthe- mums, dahlias and golden glow. It will be found immensely interesting to take the catalogues and make a list of all the flowers of a certain color, together with their time of blooming. It will be found, for instance, that there are a great many more blue flowers than one supposed, and the same is true of the other colors, so that if one has a preference for certain colors he will be surprised to find how liberally the florists are catering to that preference. A garden which has several divisions or is cut up by shrubbery, arbors or hedges offers admirable op- portunity for color work, as the separate parts can be devoted to separate color schemes rather than to separate flowers. This would add immensely to the interest of a garden and is worthy of serious consid- eration in planning a new garden. There is another arrangement of a color scheme which might appeal to some, and that is the shading of beds and borders of plants. This requires a thor- ough knowledge of the shades of color of the flowers employed or the aid of an experienced florist, but very pretty effects can doubtless be obtained by the use of flowers of a given color shaded from the palest A COLOR SCHEME IN THE GARDEN 219 tints down to the strongest tones obtainable. Pansies afford an excellent opportunity for this form of planting and delphiniums another, as these shade from purest white and pale blue down to the strong- est ultramarine. Roses give an infinity of shade gradations and some very successful color rchemes may be worked out with this flower. Where one has the knack of so growing roses that they will give a mass of bloom at one time the rose garden laid out in concentric beds, surrounding a central bed of tree roses is excellent, the roses shading from a rich, dark crimson of the center trees down through suc- cessive shades to pale pink or pure white, as the case may be, at the outer edge. Or the center may be white, shading to dark red at the outer circle. Often it will be found necessary to employ more than one variety of flowers to produce the desired color gradation but this only adds to the interest and tests one's knowledge of flowers or adds immensely to it. There is another point to be borne in mind in plan- ning the color effects of the garden and that is the effect color has on the apparent dimensions of the garden. The presence of white always brings the planting nearer the eye, while blue retires it so that where the effect of space is to be increased, as in small gardens, it will be wise to plant the white and bright colors near the front of the garden using such 220 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN colors as lavender, mauves and especially blues for the rear beds, as this will make them appear farther away and so increase the apparent dimensions. Again, if one wishes to enjoy the novelty of a gar- den of one color for a single season one may plant as many different plants of the desired color as are available and so form a wide working acquaintance with the possibilities of that color and if, at the end of the season, one finds that interest flags or that so much of one color has become oppressive, then those plants which least appeal to one's interest or taste may be discarded and their place filled with white or some other harmonizing color. It is rarely that one will wish to discard a really good perennial, nor will one easily tire of any good white, and white is the one color that one can take long chances with — it seldom needs uprooting to keep the garden peace. If one has room for experimental beds or borders where flowers of one color can be grown for two or more seasons — so that the perennials may have time to express themselves — then the best of these may, in time, find their way to the permanent garden either to form a one-color scheme or to add their color note to the mixed garden. A COLOR SCHEME IN THE GARDEN 221 PLANTING TABLE FOR BLUE GARDEN NAME SEASON HEIGHT CLASS Aconitum Napellus June-July 3' - 5' Perennial Ageratum — " Little blue star "... All summer 4"- 5" Annual *'Blue perfection" All summer 4"- 8" Annual "Princess Pauline" All summer 8" Annual Anchusa italica May- June 3' - 5' Perennial Aquilegia ccerulea July 2' Perennial Browallia, speciosa major Mid-summer and fall ' ' 2' Perennial Brachycome All summer 9"- 1' Annual Caryopteris Sept.-frost 3' Perennial Canterbury bell June- Aug. 6"- 5' Perennial Cornflower, cyanus July-Sept. 2' - 3' Perennial Convolvulus All summer 20' vine Annual Dwarf convolvulus All summer 1' Annual Japanese convolvulus, juno. . .All summer 20' -30' Annual Eryngium July and Sept. 2' - 3' Perennial Echinops ritro July-Sept. ' 2' - 3' Perennial Gentian Aug. 2' Perennial Lavender July- Aug. 2' Perennial Lindelofia May 2' Perennial Linum All summer 2' Perennial Lithospernum April-Sept. Creeping Perennial Larkspur July-frost 2' - 3' Annual Lupin May- June 18" Perennial Lobelia June-Nov. 6"-15" Perennial Maurandia July-frost 10' Perennial Myosotis May-Oct. 9"-10" Annual Platycodon July-Aug. 18" Perennial Salvias — ^Azurea Aug.-Sept. , 3' - 4' Annual Pitcheri Aug.-Sept. 3' - 4' Perennial Uliginosa June-frost 5' - 6' Perennial Virgata June-July j 18" Perennial Stokesias July-frost 18" Perennial Violas June-frost 6"- 9" Perennial PLANTING TABLE FOR RED GARDEN NAME SEASON HEIGHT VARIETY Agrostemma — Flos Jovis June-July 12" Perennial Coronaria June-July 2' - 3' Perennial Amaranthus — Cordatus June-July 3' - 5' Annual Cruentus Jime-July 3' Annual Antirrhinum.tall July-Sept, 3' Annual Half -dwarf July-Sept. 18" Annual Armeria Formosa All summer 12" Perennial Asters, in variety Aug.-Oct. 18"- 2' Annual Althea — " Duchess de Brabant ".Sept.-Oct. 12' -15' Perennial " Rubis" Sept.-Oct. 12' -15' Perennial Anemone — Japonica rubra Sept.-Oct. 2' - 3' Perennial *' Prince Henry " Sept.-Oct. 2' - 3' Perennial Aubretia Leichtfini May- June Dwarf Perennial Balsam All svunmer 18"- 2' Annual Begonia Erfordia All summer 12"-15" Annual Luminosa, Vernon All summer 12"-15" Annual Candytuft June 1' Annual Cardinal climber July-frost 30' Annual 222 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN PLANTING TABLE FOR RED GARDEN (Continued) NAME SEASON HEIGHT VARIETY Carnation, Marguerite Aug.-fro3t 12"-18" Perennial Celosia, plumed July 2J^'-3' Annual Centaureas, Sweet Sultans June 2' Annual Cercis Canadensis April 12' -15' Perennial Cornus rubra ]May 12' -15' shrub Perennial Clarkia— "Brilliant" July-Aug. 2' -214' "Scarlet Queen" July-Aug. 2' -2I2' Annual Cypress vine July-Oot. 15' Annual Cosmos Sept.-Oct. 4' - 6' Annual Chrysanthemum, hardy Sept.-Nov. 2'- 23^' Perennial Clematis — Montana rubeus April-May Vine Perennial , Coccinea June-frost Vine Perennial Daphne'Gneorum May 6"- 8" Perennial Dianthus — "Fireball" All summer 1' Biennial Latifolius atrococcineus fl. pi.. All summer 18" Perennial Goum All summer 2' Perennial Hollyhock July-Aug. 5' - 6' Perennial Impatiens Sultana All summer 2' Annual Lobelia cardinalis Aug.-Sept. 2' - 3' Perennial Lychnis June- July 2' - 3' Perennial Lathyrus All summer 8' -10' vine Perennial Lonicera Ledebourii May 4' - 6' Perennial Nasturtium All summer 6' -10' Annual Petunia, brilliant All summer 15" Annual Phlox— "Geo. A. Strohlein" Au^.-Sept. 2' - 3' Perennial "Prof. Vircho" Aug.-Sept. 2' - 3' Perennial "Tragedie" Aug.-Sept. 2' - 3' Perennial Phlox Drummondi .AH summer 15" Annual Pentstemon, barbatus torreyi. . .June- Aug. 3' - 4' Perennial Poppy, Goliath Oriental June 18" Perennial Potentilla June-Aug. 18" Perennial PjTus Japonica May 3' - 6' Perennial Rhododendron June 3' - 6' Perennial Salvia July-frost 3' - 5' Annual Scarlet runner bean All summer Vine Annual Stock—" Blood Red " July-frost 18"- 2' Annual "Crimson King" 18"- 2' Annual Sweet William Mid-summer to frost 18"- 2' Perennial Tritoma Sept.-frost 2' - 3' Perennial WaUflower, Goliath May 18" Annual Weigelia, Eva Rathke All summer 4' - 5' Perennial Zinnia — "Red Riding Hood". . .All summer 2' Annual Dark Scarlet All summer 2' Annual Bright Scarlet All summer 2' Annual PLANTING TABLE FOR WHITE GARDEN NAME SEASON HEIGHT VARIETY Antirrhinum — Giant white July-Nov. 3' Annual " Mount Blanc" July-Nov. 18"-3' Annual Adlumia cirrhosa July 18" Biennial Achillea Ptarmira All summer 2' Perennial AcrocUnium Napellus All summer 15" Annual Ageratum, Imperial dwarf white. All summer 8" Annual Alyssum, Little Gem All summer 4" Annual A COLOR SCHEME IN THE GARDEN 223 PLANTING TABLE FOR WHITE GARDEN (Continued) NAME SEASON HEIGHT VARIETY Aquilegia alba June-July 18" Perennial Arabia alpina. April 6" Perennial Asters, id variety. .... July-Oct. 18" Annual Anemone — Japomca alba Sept.-Oct. 2' - 3' Perennial '• Whirlwind 'V, . Sept.-Oct. 2' - 3' Perennial Antnencum — Liliastrum gigan- teuni . . May 18" Perennial Armena alba AU summer 9" Perennial Astilbe, white pearl June- July 21"- 2' Perennial Althea, Jeanne d Arc. Sept.-Oct. 12' -15' Perennial Andromeda — Flonbunda May 2' - 4' Perennial Japonica May 4' - 6' Perennial Araha spinosa ... Aug. 12' -15' Perennial Azalea Japomca alba May- June 2' Perennial Balsam, white perfection July-Aug. 18"- 2' Annual Boccoma cordnta July-Aug. 5' Perennial Boltoma asteroides . July-Sept. 4' - 6' Perennial aelhs (bngh.sh daisy) All summer 4"- 6" Perennial Calendula, pongei fl. pi Late summer and /- . ,. ^ „ ^^11 1' Annual Canterbury bell July 3' Perennial Campanula carpataca All summer 6' Perennial Cornflower All summer 2' Annual Candytuft, Empress All summer 9" Annual Chrysanthemum — .'.' ^^^^ Edward " Fall 2' Perennial Inodorum Mid-summer to eu . T^ • », , ^^°^^ 2' Perennial Shasta Daisy, Alaska July-Oct. 15"-18" Perennial Clarkia alba fl. pi June-July 2"-30" Annual Cleome alba July-Aug. 3 14' Annual Cosmos, Lady Lenox Sept. 4' - 6' Annual Convalleria (Lily of Valley) May " 9" Perennial Ctuonanthus June 6' - 8' Perennial Clethra . . July-Aug. 4' - 5' Perennial Cratsgus Oxyacantha May 12' -15' Perennial Clematis — Paniculata Sept. Vine Perennial Montana grandiflora April-May 20' vine Perennial Virginiana Aug. 20' Perennial Recta fl. pi. June- July 2' - 3' Perennial Delphinium album July-Sept. 18' - 2' Perennial Digitahs June-July 3' Perennial Datura (Brugmansia) Late summer 3' - 5' Perennial Deutzias, m variety June 5' - 6' Perennial Hibiscus, Crimson Eye July-Aug. 4' - 5' Perennial HoUyhock . . . July-Aug. 5' - 6' Perennial Ipomea — Grandiflora" June-frost 20' Annual ^ 'Japanese-Aphrodite" July-frost 30' Annual Iris, in variety June-July 2' - 3' Perennial Lobeha, white gem June-Nov 6" Annual Lupine. . . . May- June 2' Perennial Lihum — Candidum June 2' - 3' Perennial Auratum. . . July 3' - 4' Perennial Speciosum album Jvdy 2' Perennial Lilac— Vulgaris alba May 6' -12' Perennial Mme. Cassimir Perier" May-June 6' - S' Perennial Ligustrum Ibota" (Jap. Privet) June- July 6' - 8' Perennial 2M MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN PLANTING :TABLE FOR WHITE GARDEN (Continued) NAME SEASON HEIGHT VARIETY Lonicera (Bush Honeysuckle) — Morrowi May 6' Perennial Tartarica June 6' Perennial Lathyrus, White Pearl All summer 8' -10' Perennial Nicotiana afBnis All summer 2' - 3' Annual Pansy — "Giant Snow Queen".. .AH summer 9" Perennial "Giant Snow White" AU summer 9" Perennial Petunia — Snow Ball All summer 12" Annual Pure White _. All summer 12"-15" Annual Phlox Drummondi All summer 9" Annual Phlox amoena April-May 4" Perennial Subulata alba April-June 4" Perennial "Diadem" July-Sept. 1' Perennial " Mrs. Jenkins" July-Sept. 3' Perennial "Jeanne d'Arc" July-Sept. 2J^' Perennial Physoategia alba Mid-summer 4' - 6' Perennial Platycodon July 2' - 2K' Perennial Polygonum auberti Late summer and fall 15' Perennial Pyrethrum uliginosura stellata . . Aug.-Sept. 2' Perennial Philadelphus June 6' - 8' Perennial Rodgersia All summer 3' - 4' Perennial Schizophragma hydrangeoides. .. June-July 12' -15' Perennial Stenanthiun Aug.-Sept. 4' - 5' Perennial Spiraea — Aruncus June-July 3' - 6' Perennial FiUpendula June 15" Perennial Ulmaria June-July 3' - 4' Perennial Stokesia Sept. 18" Perennial Thalictrum dipterocarpum Aug.-Sept. 4' Perennial PLANTING TABLE FOR YELLOW GARDEN NAME SEASON HEIGHT CLASS Alyssum, Golden Saxatile May 1' Perennial Antirrhinum, "Golden Queen". .July-Nov. 18"- 2H' Annual Argemone July 3' Perennial Aquilegia chrysantha May- July 2' -234' Perennial Anthemis tinctoria All summer 15" Perennial Asphodelus luteus July 3' Perennial Baptisia tinctoria June 2' Perennial Balsam July 2' Annual Canary Bird Vine AU summer 6' - 8' Annual Calendula — Pure Gold All summer 1' Annual "Double Sulphur" Callirhoe All summer 9"-12" Perennial Caltha May 1' Perennial Celosia plumosa July- Aug. 2' - 234' Annual Chrysanthemum segetum July-Sept. 3' Annual Pompon Late fall. 2' Perennial Coreopsis June-frost 2' Perennial Cosmos, Klondyke Sept.-Oct. 4' - 6' Annual Cephalaria June-July 6' Perennial Chamaelirium June 2' Perennial Corchorus June-Oct. 6' - 8' Perennial Dimorphotheca All summer 12' -15' Perennial Doronicom May 1' - 3' Perennial A COLOR SCHEME IN THE GARDEN 225 PLANTING TABLE FOR YELLOW NAME SEASON Eschscholtzia All summer Erysimum All summer Epimedium sulphurum All summer Helianthus, in variety June-frost Hollyhock July Hunnemannia July Hemerocallis May-July Heliopsis Aug.-Oct. Hypericum All summer Ins — Ochroleuca May Aurea May Pseudacorua June Marigold. . . July-Aug. Lysimachia — Ciliata July Punctata Aug. Portulaca All summer Rudbeckia fulgida Aug.-Sept. Ranunculus May-June Sanvitalia All summer Stock. July-frost Senecio — Veitchianus July-Aug. Clivorum July-Aug. Silphium Aug.-Sept. Tagetes AH summer Thermopsis June- July Thalictrum July-Aug. Tritoma sulphurea Aug.-Sept. TroUius Europffius May- July Viola, Luteu8 Splendens June-frost Zinnias June-frost GARDEN (Continued) HEIGHT CLASS 12"-18" Annual 18" Perennial 8"-10" Perennial 1'- 7' Annual 1'- 7' Perennial 2' Annual 21^'- 5' Perennial 3'- 5' Perennial 2' Perennial 2}i' Perennial 3' Perennial 4' Perennial 18"- 2' Annual 2' Perennial 2'- 3' Perennial 6" Annual 3' Perennial 2' Perennial 6" Annual 12"-15" Annual 2' Perennial 3' Perennial 6'- 8' Perennial 1' Annual 3' Perennial 3'- 4' Perennial 21^' Perennial 2' Perennial 6"- 9" Perennial .12"-18" Annual CHAPTER XXII BIRD HOUSES, NATATOEIUMS AND FEEDING STATIONS Few things add so charmingly to the interest of the home grounds as the presence of birds, especially those more attractive species that require some spe- cial provision for their comfort in the way of nesting places, abundant food supply and the presence of water for drinking and bathing, and all in a position that insures a moderate degree of safety for their enjoyment. The robin, the blue jaj^ the cat bird and the Eng- lish sparrow we have with us always. The flicker or high-holer (or any one of the friendly, intimate names by which this big fellow of the woodpecker family is known) is common on most lawns. The mourning dove, that most exquisite member of the family, is common wherever trees for the construction of its slovenly-built nest grow — usually a pear tree or an evergreen will be its choice — while the oriole hangs its pensile nest from the outermost tips of the maple trees. But the little house wren, the bluebird and the martin will not make their homes with us unless 226 BIRD HOUSES AND NATATORIUMS 227 suitable domiciles are provided for their occupancy and these must be in position early in the spring, before the return of the birds. That, in the case of the bluebird, will be any time in March, so that the houses should be up by the end of February. Mar- tins come later and once supplied with an acceptable house will return year after year to the same abode. Unlike the bluebird they are not driven away by the sparrows, paying absolutely no attention to their attacks. A pair of martins came the past summer to a five-room house on my lawn which was intended for bluebirds, but these had been driven away by the sparrows. The martins tried to gain entrance through the small openings; the sparrows attacked them vigorously but the martins never even turned their heads to look at them and only left when they found the entrance too small for them. Martins require an entrance hole about two inches in diameter and the inside diameter should be at least the length of the bird — at least six inches square or better still six by eight inches — and the house must be many roomed, for martins always nest in colonies, never singly. Bluebirds will nest singly or in apart- ment houses and wrens are solitary or gregarious as circumstances decide. Last year wrens and English sparrows occupied, quite peacefully, the same house, a ten-room structure in an especially inviting position between a large mulberry and a big pear tree. One 228 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN fateful summer a poor little wren, who had, in some tragic way, lost his mate, after days of mourning and calling for her, made an alliance with a little hen-sparrow and set up housekeeping in a box under the eaves and I was much surprised the following fall to hear some unmistakable wren notes issuing from the throat of an undersized little cock-sparrow. On examining the nest it was curious to observe how the traditions and instincts of each class of birds had been adhered to in its construction, the feathers so dear to the heart of a sparrow, and the evergreen twigs, without which no wren considers its nest com- plete, being about equally evident, and the crowning touch of a wren's nest — spider eggs, with which he always decorates his nest — were much in evidence. If one wishes to attract birds to build about the lawns and buildings it will be well to know first the habits of the different birds; which are terrestrial, building in trees and those that are given to nesting in boxes, on brackets and in buildings. It is also well to consider those that build in brush heaps, as the brown thrush, or thrasher, as it is commonly called ; those preferring brambles, as the cat bird, and indigo bunting, which much affect the blackberry bushes; and those choosing ledges in porch and out buildings, as, for example, the phoebe. One pair of phoebes have had a nest on a stringer in the woodshed where I am constantly going in and out. Last year BIRD HOUSES AND NATATORIUMS the male bird only appeared, and for days haunted the shed and porches, even trying persistently to enter the windows of the home, apparently in search of his lost mate. The little wrens, which for years have nested in the many houses provided for them about the premises, will always come into the house if an opening is found. An aperture in the wall for the admission of the hose that feeds a large aquarium, always is under observation and if found open insures a visit from the wren who will sometimes perch on the side of my work basket when I am at work and has even been known to perch on an extended finger. These domiciliary visits are not encouraged, however, for fear he may fall a victim to one of the many Persian kittens that claim special residence here. The wren is, of all our birds, the most easily pro- vided for, as it is not at all fastidious as to the quarters provided, and will nest in single or apart- ment houses with equal content. A favorite box with one pair was a codfish box with the lid shoved on and an inch-wide hole cut through near the lower corner. Almost any box that is available can be fashioned into homes for birds by the use of hammer and saw. Take a starch or soap box, for instance. Re- move the lid, saving the pieces in as perfect condition as possible. Put two partitions through the box, the first being a straight piece the length of the box and as wide as the inside depth. Then another piece the 230 IMAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN length of the inside width of the box must be cut and a slit sawed half way through the middle and a cor- responding slit through the lengthwise piece. This allows the two pieces to fit together, dividing the box into four compartments. The lid should then be nailed in place and an inch hole bored with an auger near the lower right hand corner of each compart- ment. Two of these may be on the front and one on each side of the box, so that one entrance need not be directly over another. Under each opening bore another small one and fit in this a peg for a lighting perch. Each compartment should be large enough for the bird to enter and turn around, as the hen always sits facing the opening when brooding her eggs and fledglings ; this makes for convenience when being fed by her mate. A roof that will shed water is more desirable than a flat surface and this may easily be fashioned by cutting two three-cornered or triangular pieces for front and back and nailing them in place and attach- ing straight sides to these to form the slanting roof. Very presentable houses may be constructed in this simple way if a little attention is given to detail in painting. Green makes a good foundation color for box and roof, and the triangular pieces may be striped in green and white with white for the perches. Larger boxes for martins may be made in the same way, mak- BIRD HOUSES AND NATATORIUMS 231 ing the inside diameter of nests six by six by six with the entrance about two inches in diameter. Very attractive houses may be made from cheese boxes, but are more trouble to construct, owing to the difficulty of adjusting the partitions, but they well re- pay the extra labor. For a five room bluebird or martin house a single cheese box is used and the first thing to do is to find a round piece of wood — a bar- rel head is just right — for the top and bottom. Find the exact center of these and of the cheese box and with an inch and a quarter auger cut a hole through all four pieces, having them exactly in line. These are for the insertion of a piece of wood — a piece of a curtain pole is just right — around which the box is to be built. Pieces of wood as long as the distance from the center hole to the edge of the box and as wide as its depth are next fitted into the box and nailed with thin brads to sides and bottom. Holes are then cut with a very sharp bit near the bottom of each compartment — two inches for martins, one and three-fourths inches for fly catchers, one and one- fourth inches for chickadees, one inch for wrens and one and a half inches for Carolina wrens and tree swallows. Under each opening place a perch as sug- gested for the square boxes, and attach the top and bottom to the box. To do this it will be necessary to introduce some solid strips of wood, round or square, inside the nests, as the thin wood of which 232 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN the cheese boxes are made affords little chance for solid work. The top and bottom being in place, the ornamental part of the house will be next in order. A very- pretty finish is made by securing a strip of round wood an inch or a trifle more in diameter — a window shade roller will do — and saw it into length exactly that of the space between the top and bottom boards and nail these in place, forming a pillared portico or veranda about the house. The window pole is now inserted into the holes provided for it and three small iron or wooden brackets attached to the part that ex- tends above the house, nailing them to the top and to the pole, which should have some ornamental heading to finish it. Three larger brackets finish the under part of the box. The whole should then be given a coat of dark green paint — the green used for outside window blinds wears best— and the trimming, pil- lars, perches, brackets and pole should be painted white. The free end of the pole should then be fitted into an iron water pipe about eight or ten feet long and this set in a socket in the ground. An old well cylinder set in concrete makes an excellent socket and by this installation the pole can be easily lifted out to clean the house each spring. Ten-room houses are constructed in the same way by using the double cheese boxes, putting in partitions half the depth of the box, fitting a round piece of wood over these and BIRD HOUSES AND NATATORIUMS 283 supplying another series of partitions, care being taken that the openings alternate, no one being over another. This style of house will prove very accept- able to martins and birds which dwell in colonies. Often one has in his possession old-fashioned wooden clocks which have long since ceased to be of service and have been relegated to the garret. These make excellent wren houses, as it is only necessary to remove the works^ insert partitions and supply en- trances, and give a coat of weather-proof paint and erect them in some convenient position under the roof of the porch or on the trunk of a tree. Once one has formed the bird house habit it is surprising how many things one finds adaptable. Small kegs, with a thatched roof, may be suspended from the limbs of a tree and one of the prettiest houses I have seen was made from a candy pail with a barrel head for a bot- tom and a peaked thatched roof, all erected on a pole and giving house room to a number of families of wrens. In putting up houses on trees it is usually most convenient to drill a hole in the back, near the top, and driving a spike in a tree hang the house on that. This does Very well if the proximity of limbs afford a little support so that there is no danger of its being blown down. .A more secure way is to nail a strip of board to the back of the box, letting it extend two or three inches beyond the box, and nail g34 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN through this into the tree. Thus adjusted it will be secure against almost any wind. Cheese boxes have not served their full duty when used exclusively for nests, for they make excellent feeding stations for the winter birds. For this pur- pose I like two lids, separated by three pieces of curtain pole about ten inches long, the upper, of course, turned downward and the lower up. They should be nailed to the top of a post at a convenient place for filling and will be found well patronized by the birds. Grain, bread crumbs, weed seeds, — any food suitable for small birds, — may be used to attract them. For the larger birds, like jays, rose breasted grossbeaks and cardinals, the spiked feeding stations are desirable. These may be simply a block of wood with a spike driven through it nailed to a convenient post or tree and an ear of corn impaled on the spike. A chunk of bread or of suet will attract any of the woodpecker family. Such a station in view of my dining room window has for several summers been full of interest from the regular visits of a pair of red-headed woodpeckers which feed and carry por- tions of food to their nest in a tree across the street and as soon as the young are large enough to fly bring them to feed also. A piece of wood a foot or fifteen inches long and about nine inches wide is pointed at each end and two pieces of board about eight inches long and five wide are nailed to the BIRD HOUSES AND NATATORIUMS 235 two top sides to form a roof. About two-thirds of the distance from the top a square of wood with a spike nailed through from the back is nailed and a perch, consisting of a bit of tree branch, is nailed beneath for the accommodation of the woodpeckers. The jays usually stand on the com or spike to eat, but woodpeckers eat from below up. Most feeding stations and houses attached to trees are more sat- isfactory if painted an inconspicuous green or gray. The sliding cars which run on wires and so afford no footing for cats or squirrels are other satisfactory structures, easily made b}^ any one handy with tools. These are usually about a foot long by six inches wide and have pointed ends about nine inches high which support two roof boards. A narrow ledge is put along the open sides to prevent the food spilling out and a wire is run, through a hole in the end ga- bles, from tree to tree or from other supports — the end of a porch and a tree being convenient. A cord attached to the car and running over a pulley on the tree will allow the car to be drawn up to the porch to be filled and then slid back along the wire until far enough from the house to give confidence to the birds when first they begin to use it. In the summer the water supply is more important than food, as the birds will be able to forage for themselves and seldom affect localities lacking in nat- ural food, but much may be done to furnish a supply 236 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN of such food as is especially acceptable to birds by planting trees, shrubs and grains that will attract them. No one tree can be planted that will attract so wide a variety of birds as the Russian mulberry. From the time the first fruit begins to redden in June until sometime in September the trees will be alive with a surprising variety of birds and many of the early spring migrant birds will visit the trees for insects they find on the twigs and the seeds of the berries which they gather from the ground. Last spring a large flock of juncos stayed about the trees several weeks, scratching over every foot of the ground in search of food and so tame were they that they paid little attention to my presence, scratching away, with both feet at once, within a yard of me. Mountain ash attracts many migrant birds and the trees are seldom without birds as long as a berry remains. Where mulberries are planted little if any damage is done to other fruit, as the birds much pre- fer them and many fruit growers plant them for protection. The following list of shrubs, trees and vines which attract birds will be suggestive, as some, or all of them, may be found growing wild in one's vicinity and may be easily transplanted to one's door yard. BIRD HOUSES AND NATATORIUMS 237 Trees. Eussian mulberry Dogwood Wild sand cherry Black cherry Choke cherry Hack berry Box elder White thorn White ash Mountain ash European ash Balsam fir Eed cedar White spruce Hemlock Pitch, white and Norway pine Shrubs. Elders Raspberries Blackberries Sumacs Juniper berries Service berries Holly berries Huckleberries Spice bush Haws Snow berries Shad bush Fever bush Barberry Cornels Dangleberries Black alder Privet Choke berry Buckthorn Swamp gooseberry Wild rose Thimbleberry Indian currant Arrow wood Sheep berry High bush cran- • berry Vines. Wild grape Virginia creeper Bitter sweet Moonseed Matrimony vine Clematis Honeysuckle vine Trumpet vine Plant Sarsaparilla Buckwheat Sunflower Japanese millet Poke berry Wild rice Hemp Oats Clover Sunflowers are especially interesting things to grow, for, as soon as the seeds begin to ripen, the patch will be full of linnets whose pretty little call of * ' See-veet, see-veet" can be heard all day long and if one goes quietly down among the tall rows of sunflowers they can be approached within two or three feet, and if alarmed will only retreat to a near-by flower. Often I have called and been answered, as their note is one of the easiest to imitate. At this season of the year MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN the linnet is rather shabby in his old summer suit and is more intent in filling his little crop with the fattening seeds than in his personal appearance, but he is a very attractive and engaging little acquaint- ance at any time. A clover field is a joy indeed when it brings, in early May, the gay little bobolink, and if there is a brush heap or low tree close by where he may light and pour out his soul in song one may well begrudge any duty that calls one away from his immediate vicinity. But to return to the question of water. Water for drinking must be available, of course, but water for bathing is just as necessary and bird baths should be scattered about the lawns and gardens, wherever they will be convenient and safe for use. They should always be placed near a tree or other resting place easily reached, for the bird cannot fly far when wet and in such condition is an easy prey for cats. A bath placed on a pedestal with a wire stretched above it a few feet from the ground is excellent. A tall stump with hollow top fitted with a large hanging basket of earthen ware, the drainage holes plugged and a perch fixed half way down the basin for the accommodation of small birds that could not bathe in the deep water, had a wire stretched from a corner of a porch to a fence some distance away and was so popular with the birds that there was never an hour of the day that did not see the wire covered with BIRD HOUSES AND NATATORIUMS 239 birds of all sorts waiting for a chance to bathe. Large trees nearby added security and shade. A wire nest, such as is used in poultry houses, is sunk in the ground under a windmill tower covered with wire netting and roses. The wire nest, given a coat of cement and always filled with fresh water from the tap, is much loved by brown thrushes, robins and other large birds who bathe and fly into the netting to dry and preen themselves. I have seen a dozen brown thrushes there at one time. The flickers like a dish set on the ground under the apple trees. The big lily pool, of course, attracts many birds, especially the mourning doves, and one memorable day saw three blue herons about to make a descent upon its placid waters. Fortunately for the welfare of the gold fish which, with the frogs, claim the lily pool as their especial domain, my presence frightened them away, but the presence of herons so far from the lake was something unknown before and proved quite an exciting episode. But one need not depend entirely on houses of wood and fountains of concrete and stone for the comfort of the birds, for one may grow very com- modious nests and baths of gourds with little trou- ble and expense, letting nature do the fashioning in many quaint and curious forms. Almost every need of the birds may be supplied at the expense of a few packets of seeds and a little time and labor. 240 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN The gourds best adapted for nests are the Turk's cap gourds, the calabash, the Hercules' club, and tho dipper. The club gourds are long and about five inches in diameter and when thoroughly ripe and dry should have a hole two inches in diameter cut near the upper part of the large portion and the contents removed. The gourd should then be attached to the side of a tree in the same position a hollow limb would naturally occupy. Put a little fine sawdust in the bottom for nesting, as that is all the material used by the woodpeckers and flickers which use this form of nest. The smaller calabashes and the Turk's cap should have a hole an inch or an inch and a quarter in one side and be fastened up on the top of a porch pillar or other sheltered position for wrens or chickadees. A larger hole is necessary for blue- birds. The large calabashes, often fifteen to eighteen inches in diameter, when sawed in two make excellent natatoriums and feeding dishes, but are not so well adapted for nests, as they cannot be divided into compartments very well. The raising of gourds is a very simple operation, providing one has a long season in which to mature the fruit. The seed should be started very early in the house or hotbed, planting two or three seeds in thumb pots plunged in the earth of the hotbed or in a box of damp sand in a warm place in the house for BIRD HOUSES AND NATATORIUMS S41 best results. Plant out in a warm, sunny position when the nights and soil are warm — not before. They must have sufficient support from the start so that there will be no setback to their growth and when a sufficient number of fertile flowers have set, the ends of the vines may be shortened in order to throw the strength of the vine into the ripening of the fruit. Some seasons it is impossible to get a single ripe gourd even on strong, rampant vines, while more favorable seasons will give an abundance of fruit, but in the warmer sections of the country they should be as easily raised as squashes. They should have sufficient water at all times and good rich mellow soil. They are very fascinating things to raise, be- cause there are so many kinds and such curious forms, and as when dried they are practicably indestructible, one good crop should furnish bird supplies for several years. 242 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN TABLE OF GERMINATION OF SEEDS In the following table it will he noticed that certain flowers appear in two or more sections. When this occurs the first section indicates the shortest time in which perfectly fresh vigorous seed, planted in a warm hotbed or in flats in the house or greenhouse should appear. The longer time is required by less vigorous seed sown under less favorable conditions and in the open ground. Self-sown seed in the open ground will usually not appear until much later than the same seed sown in a prepared seed-bed, and weeks later than seed sown in hotbed or other protected position. FROM 3-5 DAYS Ageratum Layia elegans Sweet William Ammobium Leptosyne maritima Tradescantia Asters Marigold Tri folium Celosia Mimulus Tunica Centaurea Mina lobata Verbascum Chrysanthemum Salvia Veronica Cypress Vine Sedum Virginian stock Cosmos Silene schafta Viscaria Calliopsis Sphserogyne Vittadenia Gilla Stevia Whitlavia Hollyhock Stock Zinnia Lavatera FROM 5-7 DAYS Acacia Convovulus Gaillardia Acroclinium Chrysanthemum Geranium Asters Indicum Gypsophila Amaranthus Cineraria Hedysarum Arabis alpina Clitoria Hablitzia BeUis Coleus Helenium Beta Coreopsis HeUchrysum Brorapton stock Crucianella Hibiscus Bromus Cuphea Iberis Browallia Cynoglossom Linum Calliopsis Dahha Linaria Candytuft Dianthus Lobelia Cannabis Daisy Lupinus Carnations Dolichos Lychnis Centaurea Eschscholtzia Ice plant Cacalia Eupatorium Malva Catchfly Gilia Matthiola BIRD HOUSES AND NATATORIUMS MS FROM 5-7 DAYS (Continued) Mesembryanthernum Nigella Scarlet runner Mignonette Nicotiana Salpiglossis Morning Glory CEnothera Schizanthus Mirabilis Picotee Sunflower Momordica Pinks Wall flowers FROM 7-8-10 DAYS Abutilon Commelyna Viola Achimines Deutzia Papaver Agrostemma Digitalis Pentstemon Antirrhinums Dracocephalum Petunia Armeria Erianthus PhaceHa Abronia Gaura Phlox Drummondi Adonis GiUa Poinsettia Balsams Gloxinia Potentilla Begonias Gnaphalium Portulaca Bartonia Hibiscus Sweet sultan Baloon vine Humulus Rudbeckia Bryonopsis Kaulfussia Thunbergia Clarkia Lychnis Tropaeolum Calceolaria Lathyrus Valerian Canna Molina Verbena Capsicum Pansy Zea Campanula , FROM 10-12 DAYS Achillea Calandrina Helianthemum Alyssum saxatile Calonycton Linaria Artillery plant Campanula Ipomopsis Arctotis grandis CHanthus Larkspur Anchusa Cyperus Scabiosa Aquilegia Dicentra Scutellaria Asphodelus Euphorbia Silphium Aubretia Feverfew Spiraea Bidens Galtonia Sweet peas Blue bells Geum Xeranthemum Brachycome Gypsophila FROM 12-15 DAYS Anemone sylvestris Antigonon Campanula Tenore Achyranthus Asters, perennial Calandrina Acacia Calhrhoe Datura 244 MAKING OF A FLOWER GARDEN FROM 12-15 DAYS (Continued) Didiacus Myosotis Rieinus Delphiniums Nicotiana Ranunculus Gazanopsis Nierembergia Shasta daisy Gourds Peas Stokesia Hunnemania Perilla Thalictrum Lantana Petunia, double Torenia Kudzu vine Platycodon Verbena venosa Mandevillea Polemonium Vinca Maurandia FROM 15-20 DAYS Acanthus Cobaea scandens Iris Agapanthus Cuphaea Liatris spicata Anemone Dictamnus Primula sinensis Antigonon Geranium Rivina humihs Armeria sanguineum Smilax, Boston Asparagus Heliotrope Solanum robust um Bocconia Impatiens sultana Passiflora Calla Hemerocalhs Wisteria FROM 20-35 DAYS Adiumia Clematis integrifolia Musa ensete Clianthus Cianthus Dampieri Phlox, perennial Baptisia australis Delphinium Phormium Berberis vulgaris nudicaule Physanthus Campanula fragilis Funkia Tritoma uvaria Campanula Gentiani acaulis Yucca Leutweiana Hibiscus speciosa Wild cucumber Clematis diversifolia Humea elegans Cyclamen ONE YEAR OR MORE Adiumia Fuchsias Lupinus polyphyllus Ampelopsis Geranium Musa Anthericum sanguineum Tradescantia Clematis, in variety Iris Viola odorata Dictamnus Lilies Iiiiil«^^^^