Tatting of To-day Published by The Ladies' World Edited by Louise S. Hauck W^ho will be glad to answer any letters relating to these designs, if a stamped, self-addressed envelope is enclosed Price 10 Cents The McClure Publications, Inc., 251 Fourth Avenue, New York Copyrighl, 1915, by McClure Pub.. In Needlework and Crafts Helps o For Ladies' World Readers The Ladies' World Filet Crochet Book Explicit Directions for Beginners, Seventy-five Simple and Practical Designs, and Three Alphabets, with Diagrams and Directions. Price 25 Cents. The Ladies' World Embroidery Book This Includes Over 150 Designs for Embroidery, Including Braiding, Initials, Household Linens and Lingerie. These Can be Supplied as Transfer Patterns or Ready Stamped Materials. Directions for Stitches and Diagram Designs for Cross Stitch are given. Price 10 Cents. Basket Making Directions for Making the Baskets Illustrated on Page 34 of the November, 1914, and on Page 22 of the January, 1915, Ladies' World. Can be Supplied for 4 Cents Each. Ribbon Decorations Illustrated on Page 16 of the November, 1915, Ladies' World. Directions for Making Ribbon Novelties. Price 10 Cents. Leather Work Patterns and Directions for the Designs on Page 16 of the November, 1915, Ladies' World. Price 15 Cents. Painting Boxes Patterns and Directions for Painting the Cookie and Pantry Boxes on Page 17 of the November, 1915, Ladies' World. Price 20 Cents. Paper Rope Work Directions for Making Paper Rope Lamp and Candle-stick with Shades, shown on Page 17 of the November, 1915, Ladies' World. Price 6 Cents. ©CU418001 Page 3 The Art of Making Tatting By Louise S. Hauck Who tvill be glad to answer questions if you are puzzled IN order to learn easily and quickly, and without trying orte's patience too much, in learning, how to make tatting, it will be wise to read the follow- ing thoughtfully and carefully. The knots of which the tatting is made consist of two stitches. These stitches form little loops through which the shuttle thread must run freely so as not to confine it. You will see in starting the work the consistency of this need. Here is a fact which must be absolutely re- membered in trying to learn. That the stitches are made with the left-hand thread and not with the shuttle thread. The shuttle is where the supply comes from. around the left-hand fingers, the shuttle in the right hand with the thread at the right of the shuttle, holding out the thread of the shuttle with the middle finger of the right hand. Now you will make the first stitch of the knot. Put the shuttle down in the ring against the space thread of the left hand, let the thread pass up be- tween the forefinger and shuttle, then over the shuttle and down between the shuttle and thumb. Now comes the knack of making the first little loop. Give the shuttle thread a little jerk, at the same time bending the left-hand fingers a little, holding the shuttle thread firmly; ,you will see the little loop In position for first stitch First half of first knot In position for second stitch Completed knot of under and over stitches How to hold the left-hand thread and shuttle TAKE the end of the thread between the forefinger and thumb, form a ring around the left hand, spreading out the rest of the fingers a little. You will now have a space between the forefinger and middle finger. In this space all the stitches are made that are used when working with one thread. Now take the shuttle between the forefinger and thumb of the right hand, with the thread at the right of the shuttle. Have the thread between the left hand and the shuttle about six inches long. If you have the thread too long it will bother you. be- cause you will have to hold the thread out with the middle flngei of the right hand. Now here i? the position for the first stitch. A ring of the thread will immediately fall in place. The loop will have the shuttle thread running through it, the left-hand thread will be over the loop, the end thread will then be underneath. The little loop is now brought back to the forefinger and thumb of the left hand by opening the fingers of the left hand. You will see that the loop will slip back easily enough. Hold the first stitch firmly between the forefinger and thumb of the left hand. All the knots are gently held be- tween the forefinger and thumb as you work. The second position for holding the shuttle in mak- ing the second stitch is thus: Allow a loop to form in the ring of the left-hand thread, and pass the space thread up between the thumb and shuttle, over the shuttle and down between the shuttle and forefinger; give the shuttle thread a little jerk; at the Page U same time close the left-hand fingers, hold the shuttle thread firmly and the loop will at once fall in place. Now look at this stitch carefully. (Of course you will understand that the shuttle must be worked in the loop you have formed with the shuttle thread.) You will see that the shuttle thread runs through the little loop, and the left-hand thread will be under- neath the little loop. Now open the fingers of the left hand and let the stitch come close to the first one made and you will have one complete knot. All tatting, no matter how elaborate, is made of these knots, whether it be made of one or two threads. A careful study of these directions will give you a clear understanding of how to make the tatting shown in the following pages. How to make the Picot WHEN you make the first stitch of the knot, do not bring the stitch close to the last knot made, but leave a space long or short as directed, then make the second stitch and bring that close to the right size as you work. The little finger will come in play and do the work for you. In this way: You will learn that by giving the thread a jerk with the little finger it will make the ring on the left hand larger and so, without your knowing it, this will take place. All the fingers of the left hand will come in play as you go on with the work, and by degrees you will learn to work so that you will be able to talk, too. How to work with two threads WHEN you work with two threads, you generally begin with a ring. When you are winding the shuttle to work with two threads, you will then not have need to tie the ends. When your shuttle gives out and it needs re-winding, leave the end quite long so as to tie the end of the shuttle thread to it. This is done with a square knot. To make a square knot TIE the ends close to the work. Lay the left-hand thread over that of the right, put the left-hand -One complete knot open 2—Completi and one picot before being drawn up knot closed 3 — Six knots J, — One complete ring first and bring the knot with the picot close to those already made. When you find that the hand thread is getting small, just give the thread of the left hand a pull downward from the forefinger and thumb. As you go on with the work you will also find that it is best to go gently, even if you can work fast. It is not necessary to draw the thread hard in working. You will find that the knots will look more even if you do not pull your work too hard. It is best to give the rings a second pull so that they will not open later on, as you work. It is quite impossible to close the ring properly in the first attempt. You will have to pull the thread too hard and are liable to break the shuttle thread if you attempt to close the ring entirely with the first attempt. By-and-bye you will learn unconsciously to keep your ring just the thread under the thread with the left hand, take the left-hand thread in your left hand, lay the right-hand thread over it, pass the left-hand end through the ring you have formed, take hold of the end with the right hand and draw the knot so that you can have a good look at it. You will have a loop within a loop. Draw this knot just as close to your work as possible, and draw both ends at once so as to make a neat knot. Now cut off the ends. After you have made the ring that precedes the work on the second thread (work made with the spool thread is called a bar), if the bar has only a few knots, wind the spool thread, holding it the same as the shuttle thread, over the outstretched fingers of the left hand and wind it a number of times around the little finger to hold it firm. When you need to make, for example, a bar with five picots, it is best DEC II 1915 Page 5 to first wind the spool thread over the middle finger, then over the little. If your directions call for a bar of seven picots, then you may wind the spool thread around the middle finger, then the third finger, and lastly around the little finger. This will prevent you from unwinding the thread around the little finger and rewinding in order to give you enough thread to complete the bar. Care must be taken when work- ing with two threads so that you turn your work properly, or you will make the bar in the wrong place. For example, if you are going to make a bar with a ring at either end, you will have to turn your work up or down as the case may require. This you will have to determine. Directions for Making Ring Tatting SIX knots, one picot. Six knots, one picot, six knots, one picot, six knots. Draw shuttle thread up tightly so as to form a single perfect ring. Now, to make the second ring: No. 3 — Begin by leav- ing a little space from the first ring. Six knots. With a crochet hook, or a good-sized pin, pull the hand thread through the last picot of the ring just made, and put the shuttle through this loop and draw the thread close to the six knots previously made. Thus continue to make rings for the plain design of tatting. The ring with three picots in the center is made with- out a knot between each picot. No. U — The ring with five picots is made begin- ning with five knots, one picot, five knots, three picots with knot between each picot, five knots, one picot, five knots, close. No. 5 — Three knots, one picot, three knots, five picots, one knot between each picot, three knots, one picot, three knots, close, three knots. Join to first picot of ring just completed and proceed to finish ring. No. 5 Simple Edges and Insertions for Handkerchiefs, Infants' Garments and Underwear No. 6— Edge— Four knots between each picot in the small rings, eight knots between the single picots and one knot between each of the five picots, turn and repeat the large ring, joining at the first picot. The insertion isthelargeringthrough whichyoucanrun ribbon. Sew on the garment as it is, or crochet a single stitch in each of the five picots with five in chain between the rings. -E'lyt- and Insert No. 7 — Insertion — Four knots, one pi- cot, four knots, three picots with one knot between each picot, four knots, one picot, four knots, close. Turn, repeat the ring. Turn, four knots, join to picot four knots, three picots with one knot between each picot, turn. Proceed working these rings, joining each to the preceding one after making the first four knots of each ring. iVo. 7- ■ leaf No. 8 — Cloi'er Leaf — Six knots between each of the picots. The rings must be made close together. No. 9 — Insertion with two threads No. 9 — Insertion — Four knots between each picot in the rings — six knots in the connecting bars. No. 10 — Clover leaf insertion and edge, with two threads No. 10 — Clovef leaf insertion arid edge iviih two threads — Begin with a small ring. Four knots, one picot, four knots, five picots with one knot between each picot, four knots, one picot, draw together. With the spool thread work six knots, then make the second ring like the first. Then the bar with six knots. Proceed to make the clover leaf given before with six knots, one picot, six knots, one picot, six knots, one picot, six knots, one picot, six knots, close and repeat three times to make three rings of leaf. Repeat bar with six knots, then two small rings, then a clover leaf. No. 11 foi Edge and beadi, underwear No. 11 — Edge and insertion. Two threads — Ring: Six knots one picot, four knots one picot, one knot one picot, one knot one picot, one knot one picot, four knots one picot, six knots, close ring. With the spool thread: Eight knots, one picot, eight knots. With the shuttle: Six knots, join to the first picot toward you at the left and proceed to work like the first ring. Then proceed to work on the spool thread as the preceding bar. There are six chain cro- cheted between each picot in the centers of each bar. Page 6 An effective little beading and edge ivhich the beginner can make for underwear and infants^ gannents EdCe No. 12— Two threads WITH the shuttle thread make three knots, one picot, three knots, one picot, three knots, three picots, three knots, one picot, three knots, one picot, three knots, close. With the spool thread: Five knots, one picot, five knots, to make the bar. With the shuttle: Three knots, join in the second picot, three knots, three picots, three knots, one picot, three knots, close. With the spool thread: Five knots, one picot, five knots. With the shuttle: Three knots, one picot, three knots, join; three knots, three picots, three knots, one picot, three knots, one picot, three knots, close. Thus proceed, repeating the bars and rings. The crocheted edge for sewing onto the fab- ric is made by chaining six stitches between each picot on the bars. Made of No. 100 thread this will be very pretty for use on sheer materials, handkerchiefs and neckwear; while made from No. 60 crochet cotton it will be ap- propriate for underwear and doilies. Heavy linen thread is used for making tatting for trimming luncheon- sets, runners, pillow-covers and heavy linen covers. A charming edge for underwear, which may also be developed in heavy linen colored thread for finishing runners and luncheon sets Clover Edge No. 13~Two threads WITH the shuttle thread make five knots, one picot, three knots, one picot, three knots, one picot, three knots, one picot, five knots, close. With the spool thread: One knot, seven picots, with one knot between each picot, one knot. With the shut- tle make clover leaf: Five knots, one picot, three knots, join picot to the last picot of ring (that is, the last one made), three knots, one picot, three knots, one picot, three knots, close. Five knots, join, three knots, five picots with one knot between each picot, three knots, one picot, five knots; close. Five knots, join, three knots, one picot, three knots, one picot, three knots, one picot, five knots; close. Now take the spool thread and pass it through the first leaf of the clover and fiasten the three leaves close to- gether. With the spool thread: One knot, seven picots, with one knot between each picot, then one knot. With the shuttle: Five knots, join to the second picot of clover, three knots, one picot, three knots, one picot, three knots, one picot, five knots. Then proceed to repeat the bar with the seven picots, and then the clover. No. 14— Double Clover Edge. Ttvo threads WITH the shuttle: Five knots, one picot, eight knots, one picot, eight knots, one picot, five knots, close. Five knots, making the first stitch of the knot just as close to the ring, just made, as it is possible to get it. Join. Eight knots, one picot, eight knots, one picot, five knots, close. Make an- other ring like the two preceding ones. If the clover leaf does not come very close together at the base of the three rings, slip the spool thread through the first leaf and fasten the rings together. Turn, five knots, join, in the picot of the first leaf made, five knots, three picots with one knot between each picot, five knots, one picot, five knots, close. With the spool thread: With a crochet needle draw the spool thread through the two picots (that is, the picot in the last leaf made, and the picot in the third leaf), thus bringing the spool thread in the proper place to begin the bar. Now with the spool thread make eight knots, one picot, eight knots, and draw them close to Used either as an insertion or ea and beading, this clover border will effective on underivear the double clover. Proceed to make the double clover and the bar until you have made what you need. Then you will observe that there is a difference in the work. The clover coming over the bar is the right side of the work. Now the next thing to do is to make the ring and bar at the top of the clover. Put the end of the shuttle thread through the picot (that is, in the ring where there is but one picot), and tie the spool thread to it. Draw the knot tight and cut close. Now take the work in hand so that the leaf with the three picots points from you, and with the spool thread make ten knots. Turn your work, and with the shuttle make ten knots and join between the two leaves where there is already a join, and then make ten more knots and close. With the spool thread: Ten knots, join in the picot at top of leaf and make ten more knots, then draw the knots close to the ring and proceed to work as directed until you have reached the end of your work. Now crochet seven in chain between each join in the bar and in the ring. Tatting is so serviceable that it makes practical as well as pretty beading and edge for lingerie THREE knots between each picot of the small ring. Nine knots in the bar. The large ring has three knots, one picot, three knots, three picots, three knots. one picot, three knots; close. To make the second large ring: Three knots, join, three knots, nine picots, three knots, one picot, three knots. Thus proceed as directed. Page 7 SIX knots, one picot, four knots and three picots with one knot between each picot, four knots, one picot, six knots, close ring. With the spool thread: Six knots, three picots with two knots be- tween each, six knots. The second ring is made like the preceding one and joined at the first picot at the left. Continue repeating with spool thread. The edge is made by crocheting two chain between the rings, and one chain between each one of the three picots. To hem the doily: Be sure you cut a perfect circle. Place a plate, tumbler, or anything that is perfectly round, on a piece of linen and mark carefully around the edge of the article used, and cut exactly on the marked line. You can easily destroy the circle if you are not careful in cutting out the disk. After A set of finger -hold or bread- and-hutter plate doilies of fine linen finished with a simple tatted edge will be acceptable to any housekeeper who loves dainty linens you are sure that your circle is perfect, turn down the edge as evenly and as little as possible, and then with a fine needle and thread run on the wrong side of the circle with small stitches on the right side. When you come to the starting point leave end of the thread with which you have been running and pull up slightly and evenly. Now turn down the hem as evenly as pos- sible and hem with very small stitches. You will be surprised how easy it will be to hem around a circle. This method holds good with anything that needs to be hemmed where the outer edge is wider than the inner. End the tatting for the doily with the spool thread. You may then sew the four ends together and cut them off after you have made sure that the thread is properly fastened. Any other edge may be used in the same way. No. 17-Edge. With two threads WITH the shuttle: Fourknots, one picot, one knot, one picot, four knots, three picots with one knot between each picot, four knots, one picot, one knot, one picot, fourknots; close. With the spool thread: Seven picots with one knot between each picot. With the shuttle: Seven knots, join in the first picot of ring. One knot, join in the second picot, four knots, three picots with one knot between each picot, fourknots, one picot, one knot, one picot, seven knots; close. With the spool thread: Seven picots with Edge for underwear, doilies, luncheon sets or rompers one knot between each picot. With the shuttle: Four knots, join, one knot, join, four knots, three picots with one knot between each picot, one picot, one knot, one picot, four knots; close. With the spool thread: Four knots. With the shuttle repeat the first ring joining in the two picots, and pro- ceed to work as directed. Beginning with the first ring, crochet one single stitch in each of the picots, three in chain between. This makes a very nice finish and looks pretty when it is put on the garment. Insertion or Edge No. 1 Edge No. 2 Insertion No. 2. Edge is made of single row Edge No. 1 TWO threads. No. 30 thread was used for making this. Wind the shuttle without breaking your thread. Ring, seven double knots, picot, seven double knots, draw up with spool thread. Chain, seven double knots, picot, seven double knots. Push the stitches closely with the shuttle thread. Ring, seven double knots, join to picot of first ring. Continue until your four rings are all joined in the first picot. Then chain five double knots, picot, two double knots, picot, two double knots, picot. ' five double knots. Begin at first ring seven double knots, picot. seven double knots, draw up chain, seven double knots and join to picot of chain made in first half wheel. Insertion — Ring seven double knots, picot, seven double knots. Draw up chain, seven double knots, picot, seven double knots and so on until four rings are joined together. Then close to the last ring. Seven double knots, picot, seven double knots, chain, seven double knots, picot, seven double knots and so on until the required length is reached. and Edge No. 2 TWO threads. Wind the shuttle without break- ing thread. Edge — Ring, five double knots, picot, five double knots, picot, ten double knots. Draw up, using spool thread and chain fourteen double knots. Fasten in last picot in ring and so on until the desired length is reached. Insertion — Same as edge except in chain make seven double knots, picot, seven double knots and join to the last picot in ring until the desired length is reached. Then go back on the chain side and join in each picot. Page 8 Showing Tatting Used on Collar ^^^^^i^S^P^^^^^^^^^^x^ HERE is a novel idea, and a practi- cal one as well. One linen handkerchief, measuring fourteen inches square; one spool of white sewing cotton No. 12; about quarter of a spool of No. 60 crochet thread; a patent steel crochet hook No. 10, and four strands of white or colored mercerized embroid- ery cotton will be needed to make this collar. To make the tatting FILL the shuttle with the No. 12 cotton— two double knots, picot, until there are eight picots and two double knots; draw it up close; allow quarter inch of cotton; three double knots, picot; two double knots, picot; two double knots, picot; two double knots, join through seventh picot of first ring, two double knots, picot; two double knots, picot; three double knots; draw up tightly; as close to it as pos- sible, three double knots. Join through last picot of ring just made, two double knots, picot, until there are six picots; three double knots, draw up tightly; close to last to it make a ring like the first of these three, which forms a clover leaf; continue for re- quired length. ng and crochet coiribined in an edge for neckwear and under^vear, bibs and infants* dresses To crochet the edge TIE on crochet cotton at first single wheel, chain eight, one single through first picot; chain four, one treble through closing of clover leaf; chain three, one single through middle picot: chain four, one double through small wheel; chain four, one single through second picot of clover leaf; same to end. Second row — Chain three, one double over chain of first row; chain two, two doubles over next chain; chain two, two doubles over next chain; same to end; break off, and draw thread through last loop. Crocheting along the edge of tatting gives a founda- tion to sew it on by. Press before using. To make the collar, fold the handkerchief exactly in half, and cut out the neck. Sew the tatting around it, having it full at the corners. Mark a circle around a spool in each corner and briar-stitch. Roll the collar in a damp cloth, allow it to remain fifteen minutes, then press over several thicknesses of flannel, wrong side up, until perfectly dry, and it is ready to wear. This size is to be worn over a waist. These collars may be as plain or as elaborate as time and inclination suggest. Tatted motifs may be set in. Page 9 A Night-gow^n Yoke Medallion No. 1 Medallion No. 2 Ten of each of these motifs required MOTIF No. 1, with two threads. With the shuttle thread': Twelve knots, one picot, twelve knots, close. With the spool thread, seven picots with one knot between each picot, beginning the bar with two knots and ending it with two knots. Turn and with the shuttle, twelve knots, join in picot, twelve knots, close. Repeat the bars and ring until you have made five rings and five bars. Tie with a square knot and cut off the ends. Motif No. 2, with two threads. Three knots, one picot, five knots, one long picot. three knots, three picots with one knot between each picot, three knots, one long picot, five knots, one picot, three knots, close. Turn and with the spool thread, two knots one picot, one knot. Turn and with the shuttle three knots, join, five knots, join to the long picot, three knots, three picots with one knot between each picot, three knots, one long picot, five knots, one picot. three knots, close. Turn and with the spool thread, two knots, one picot, one knot. Re- peat the rings and the little bars with the one picot, untiJ you have made eight rings. You finish the motif with the small bar. Join the shuttle thread to the first ring you made, tie a square knot and cut off the ends. Large motif for center-front Made toith two threads: Five knots, one picot, five knots, one picot, ten knots, close. With the spool thread make a bar with seven picots with one knot between each picot, beginning and ending with two knots. All the bars in this yoke are begun and ended with two knots. With the shuttle ten knots join in second picot of ring, ten knots, close. Turn, and with the spool thread make two knots, one picot, two knots. With the shuttle, without turning, make a ring five knots, one picot, five knots, close. With- out turning, with the spool thread make two knots, one picot, two knots. Join the spool thread back so as to bring the bars and small ring together. With- out turning make a bar of seven picots. Turn, with the shuttle, five knots, join in the first picot of motif No. 1, five knots, one picot, ten knots, close. Turn, and with the spool thread make another bar of seven picots. Turn, with the shuttle ten knots, join to picot in ring, ten knots, close. Turn and re- peat the little bar with one picot, and then the small ring, and make the bar with one picot. Join the spool thread so as to bring the bars close together. With- out turning make a bar with three picots with the spool thread. Turn, with the shuttle, five knots, one picot, five knots, one picot, one knot. Join to cen- ter picot of bar in motif, one knot, one picot, five knots, one picot, five knots, close. Five knots, join, five knots, five picots with one knot between each picot, five knots, one picot, five knots, close. Five knots, join, five knots, three picots with one knot between each picot, five knots, one picot, five knots, close. With the spool thread, make a bar of seven picots. Join in the center picot of last made ring. Without turning, and with the shuttle, five knots, join to first picot in bar at the left, eleven picots, with one knot between each picot, five knots, one picot, five knots, close. Without turning make a bar of five picots with the shuttle, nine knots, seven picots, with one knot between each picot, nine knots, close. Without turning and with the spool thread make a bar of five picots, with the shuttle and without turning, five knots, join to first picot of bar at the left, five knots, eleven picots with one knot between each picot, five knots, close. Without turning, and with the spool thread, make a bar of seven picots. Turn and with the shuttle, five knots, one picot, five knots. one picot, one knot. Join at the base of the ring and at the beginning of the bar, one knot, one picot, five knots, one picot, five knots, close. Five knots, join, five knots, one picot, one knot, one picot, one knot, join to center picot where there are five picots. Make one knot, one picot, one knot, one picot. five knots, one picot, five knots, close. Five knots, join, five knots, one picot, one knot, join to center picot of bar in motif, one knot, one picot, five knots, one picot, five knots, close. Turn and with the spool thread, make a bar of five picots. Turn and with the shuttle three knots, join seven knots, one picot, ten knots, close. Turn and with the spool thread, make the bar with one picot, small ring and a small bar, join these two bars and small ring so that they will come close together. Without turning make a bar of seven picots. Turn and with the shuttle, ten knots, join, five knots join to the first picot at the right of bar in motif, five knots, close. Turn and repeat the small Page 10 bars and small ring, and without turning make a bar of seven picots. Turn and with the shuttle, ten knots, one picot, ten knots, close. Turn and repeat the small bars and ring close together as directed before; with- out turning make a bar of seven picots. Turn and with the shuttle, ten knots, join, five knots, join in first picot in bar of motif, five knots, close. Turn and with the spool thread make a bar of seven picots. Join in the last picot in bar |'of motif and the first picot of first ring made at the beginning. This completes the top of centerpiece. Tie the two threads carefully with the square knot, and cut off" the thread. Now lay the piece down with the wide side up. At the top there are three bars, slip one end of the spool thread through the center picot in the first bar in motif No. 1 and tie the shuttle thread to it with a square knot. Cut off the ends. Joining the motifs to center-front TAKE the work in your left hand and turn the work down so that when you begin to work the picots will point up. Make a bar of seven picots. Turn and with the shuttle, twelve knots, join to the picot of small ring and to the center picot of one of the rings in motif number 2, twelve knots, close. Turn and with the spool thread make another bar with the seven picots, join to the center picot of the next ring in motif, repeat the bar and join, in the center picot of the next ring of motif, repeat th^ bar. Turn, with the shuttle ten knots, and join in the long picot of motif, ten knots, close. Without turning make a bar of seven picots, join in the first of the three picots, in second ring. Turn, five knots, five picots with one knot between each picot, five knots, close. Without turning, with the spool thread make a bar of five knots. Turn and with the shuttle, five knots, one picot, five knots, close. Without turning, with the spool thread, five knots. Turn, with the shuttle, five knots, five picots, with one knot between each picot, five knots, close. Without turning and with the spool thread make a bar with the seven picots, one knot between each, join to the base of ring opposite. Without turning, ten knots, join at the base of motif No. 1, ten knots, close. Five knots, one picot, five knots, close. Turn, make a bar of seven picots, join- ing the third picot to the third picot in the bar at the left. Then when you have finished the seventh picot and ended with the two knots, join in the center picot of motif. Repeat the bar and join to first picot of the next bar. Repeat the bar and with the shuttle, twelve knots, join to center picot of bar of the third from the first joining of same bar, three knots, join t) the center picot of motif No. 2, twelve knots, close, and join to first of the three picots in ring of motif No. 2. Make a bar of seven picots, and join at long picot of motif — repeat the bar and join in first picot of next ring. Repeat the bar. Turn, and with the shuttle thread, twelve knots, join to center picot of ring at the left, and to the center picot of bar on motif No. 1, twelve knots, close. Turn, repeat the bar of seven picots, and join to center picot of next bar in motif No. 2. Repeat the bar and join in the first picot of the next bar of motif. Turn and with the shuttle, five knots, join in the third picot of bar, five knots, join in the middle of the three picots of ring in motif, eight knots, join to the first picot of next ring on motif No. 2, five knots, close. Turn, with spool thread repeat the bar with seven picots, join to the long picot of motif, repeat the bar and join in the middle of the three picots of next ring in motif. Repeat the bar, join in the last of the three picots, of next ring of motif No. 2. Turn, with the shuttle thread ten knots, join in the center of the three picots of next ring in motif No.2, and in the center picot of bar of next motif No. 1, ten knots, close. Turn and repeat the bar. Join to the last picot of the bar in motif No. 1, which means there will be two picots between the ring and join. Repeat the bar and join in the center of bar in motif No. 1. Repeat the bar, join in the last picot of the same bar, three knots. Turn and with the shuttle thread, ten knots, join to the center picot of bar and the middle picot of the three in ring of next motif No. 2, ten knots, close. Turn with the spool thread, repeat the bar and join in the long picot. Repeat the bar and join in the first picot of the next ring. This leaves three picots of the ring free, at the left. Repeat the bar. Turn and with the shuttle ten knots, join to the center picot of next ring on next motif No. 1. Three knots, join to the second picot of bar, ten knots, close. Turn with the spool thread, repeat the bar. Join to the last picot of bar. Repeat the bar, join to the center picot of bar on motif No. 1. Repeat the bar, turn. With the shuttle, ten knots, join to the center picot of motif No. 1, three knots, join to the center of the three picots, to last motif No. 2, ten knots, close. Turn, with the spool thread repeat the bar, and join in the middle of the three picots of the next ring of motif No. 2. Repeat the bar and join to the middle of the three picots of the next ring of the motif. This brings you to the middle of the back of the yoke. Thus continue until you come to the center piece. Now you work on the lower edge of center-front large motif. Slip the shuttle thread through the last picot of the third bar from the bottom of the yoke. At the left, just side of the bar with the one picot, tie a square knot, and proceed to make the bar with the seven picots. Turn and with the shuttle, five knots, one picot, five knots, join to the third picot of same bar, five knots, one picot, five knots, close. Five knots, join, five knots, two picots with one knot between each picot, one knot, join to picot of small ring, two knots, join to the middle picot of ring in motif, two picots with one knot between each picot, five knots, one picot, five knots, close, five knots, join, five knots, one picot, five knots, close. Turn and with the spool thread, repeat the bar and join to the middle picot of ring on motif. Cut the thread long enough so that you can tie a square knot. Next you slip the spool thread through the fourth picot of the ring at the left, holding the work so that the top is down. This is the ring with the eleven picots. Tie the square knot and with the spool thread make the bar with the seven picots. Turn and with the shuttle, two knots, eleven picots with one knot between each picot, two knots, close. Turn and still with the shuttle, five knots, one picot, five knots, one picot, five knots, close, five knots, join, five knots, one picot, five knots, one picot, five knots, close. Five knots, join, five knots, five picots, with one knot between each picot, five knots, one picot, five knots, one picot, five knots, close. Five knots, join, five knots, one picot, five knots, close. Slip the shuttle thread back at the first ring and fasten it by putting the shuttle through the loop so as to bring these five rings close to the one with the eleven picots, without turning repeat the bar. and join in the fourth picot from the left in the ring with the eleven picots. Repeat the bar and join in the eighth picot of same ring, repeat the bar, join in the center picot of next bar at the right. Repeat the bar and join in the first picot of the next bar. Re- peat the bar, join in the fifth picot of the same bar. Repeat the bar, join in the center picot of the next bar, repeat the bar and join in the picot of the next Page 11 ring of motif No. 2; another bar, join in the third picot of the next ring; another bar, join in the middle of the five picots; another bar, join in the same place in the next ring; another bar, join in the last picot of the bar in motif; another bar joined in the center picot of the bar in motif; another bar joined between the two bars, another bar joined in the long picot be- tween the next two rings in motif; another bar joined in the same place between the two rings of the motif; another bar joined in the third picot of the three in the next ring of motif; another bar joined in the third picot of the next ring in motif; another bar joined in the first picot of the next motif No. 1; another bar joined in the center picot of the next bar of the motif; another bar joined in the first picot of the next bar in the motif, another bar joined in the last picot of the same bar, repeat the bar. Turn, with the shuttle thread, five knots, join in the fourth picot of bar, five knots, join in the picot of ring, five knots, close. Turn and with the spool thread repeat the bar, join in the third picot of ring. Join the next bar in the same place in the next ring. Repeat the bar, join in the first picot of bar of the next motif No. 2. Repeat the bar, join fourth picot of same bar, repeat the bar, join in the first picot of the next bar of motif. Repeat the bar, join in the last picot of the same motif. Repeat the bar, join in the long picot of the next motif. Repeat the bar, join in the third picot of ring. Repeat the bar, join in the third picot of the next ring. Repeat the bar. Join in the first picot of the next bar. Repeat the bar. Turn and with the shuttle thread, seven knots, join in the picot of motif at the left, five knots, join in the one picot left on the bar, seven knots, close. Turn and with the spool thread, repeat the bar, join in the center picot of next bar. Repeat the bar, join in the center picot of next bar. Repeat the bar, join in the last picot of the same bar. Repeat the bar, join in the long picot between the next two rings. Repeat the bar, join in the center picot of the next bar. This brings you to the middle of the back of the yoke. Next you will crochet a row of double trebles to run the ribbon through. The thread over the needle twice, taking off two stitches at a time, two chair, stitches between each treble. Edge for top of night-goTvn yoke THE edge of the top is worked thus: Slip the shuttle thread through one of the chain stitches, and tie it so that it will not open. It is wise to just sew the end and then cut the rest of the end off, that is, after you have tied the thread to the chain stitch. Five knots, one picot, five knots, three picots with one knot between each picot, five knots, one picot, five knots, close. With the crochet hook draw the thread through the second crochet stitch and slip the shuttle through to fasten it. Then slip the thread through the next second crochet stitch before you begin the next ring. Do not make the rings so close that they will draw up the yoke; it will make the yoke considerably smaller if you do. Border for Centerpiece and Doilies This forget-me-not edge is exceptionally effective as a finish for centerpieces and doilies of fine round-thread linen. It can be carried out in heavy, white or linen colored thread for icse on towels, runners and lunch cloths. Forget-me-not Edge TWO threads. With the shuttle thread make seven knots, one picot, seven knots, close. With the spool thread, five picots, with one knot between each picot. With the shuttle, seven knots, join in picot of ring, seven knots, close. With the spool thread, holding work down, two picots with one knot between each picot, holding the work in the same position and with the shuttle thread, three picots, with three knots between each picot, close. Three knots, join to picot in ring, five knots, one picot, five knots, one picot, three knots, close. Three knots, join in picot, three knots, one picot, three knots, one picot, three knots, close. With the spool thread, two picots, with one knot between each picot. Turn, seven knots, join between the two rings where there is already a join, seven knots, close. Turn, with the spool thread, five picots with one knot between each picot. Turn, with the shuttle, seven knots, join in the same place with the other three rings, seven knots, close. Holding the work in same position, five picots, with one knot be- tween each picot. With work in same position, make seven knots, one picot, seven knots. Turn, with spool thread, two picots, with one knot between each picot, join in center picot of bar, two picots with one knot between each picot. Turn, with shuttle, seven knots, join at the three rings, seven knots, close. Without changing position, make the bar with five picots, and then the ring with seven knots, one picot, seven knots, and thus proceed to vi'ork as directed. If you wish to sew the tatting on a centerpiece that is round, crochet five in chain, with a single crochet in the center picot of bar at top, five chains, with the thread over the needle twice, work between the two rings (or at the picot part of the four rings), and crocheting two stitches at a time, thus making a double treble. This makes the work even. If you want the work to be straight, crochet seven In chain and proceed in the manner. Page IS Head — A ring formed by making four double linots, onepicot, four double Itnots, one picot, four double knots, close ring. Body — Working closely up to the first ring, make nine double knots, one picot, nine double knots, close. Abdomen of butterfly must be left until wings are started. Wings — Make a large ring of three double knots; make eleven long picots with one double knot be- tween each; make thirty double knots. Close ring very carefully, lest the thread holding all these stitches should break. Make the second ring for the foundation of the left wing in the same manner, without breaking the thread. Before starting around the wings again for the next row, pass the thread over the body of the but- terfly and through the wing-foundations, pulling thread firmly to fasten body and wings tightly to- gether. Be careful not to break thread, however, until you have fastened body and wings thoroughly, as upon the firmness of this fastening depends the strength of the butterfly. Abdomen — Begin a ring with four double knots, one picot, two double knots, one picot, two double knots, one picot, two double knots; fasten in nearest long picot of right wing of butterfly; two double knots, fasten in picot at end of body; two double knots, fasten in long picot of left wing of butterfly; two double knots, one picot, two double knots, one picot, two double knots, one picot, four double knots, close. Fasten off thread. 2nd row around right wing: Make a tiny ring of two double knots, catch into picot of abdomen which is nearest to the body; one double knot, catch into the same long picot to which the abdomen is fastened; one double knot, catch into next long picot; two double knots, close ring. Make a ring of two double knots, catch into next two long picots with a single knot; two double knots, one picot. two double knots, close ring. Pass the thread under the last ring forward, catch- ing it in the second or last of the two long picots to which the last small ring was fastened. Make a ring like last small ring, catching it to the next long picot. Pass thread under ring and catch into the last of these long picots mentioned above. Make a ring of four double knots, catch into next two long picots, three double knots, one picot, four double knots, close ring. Pass thread under ring, catching into last of these two long picots. Make a ring of four double knots, catch into one long picot, four double knots, one picot. four double knots, close ring. Pass thread under ring, fasten into long picot. Make the last ring with four double knots, catch into the last two long picots, four double knots, one picot, four double knots, close ring. Pass the thread under ring, fasten securely to last long picot, and break. 3rd row: With two threads, begin by fastening extra thread under first small ring of last row. close to abdomen of butterfly. Make four double knots over this thread, catch into adjoining picot of abdo- The butterfly medallions may be repeated to form yokes or inserts for night-gowns, combination garments and neckwear; also bed-room linens, towels, candle-shades, pin-cushion covers and other novelties. The size of the thread determines the size of the medallion. These would be beautiful repeated to form the edge for a centerpiece men; two double knots, one picot, three double knots, catch into picot of second small ring of preceding row. Make two double knots, one picot, one double knot, one picot, one double knot, one picot, three double knots, catch into picot of next small ring; three double knots, catch into last picot of this first loop; one double knot, one picot, two double knots, one picot, one double knot, onepicot; three double knots, catch into picot of next small ring. The third loop ismadewithfourdouble knots, catch thread into last picot of preceding loop; one double knot, one picot, one double knot, one picot, one double knot, one picot; four double knots, catch thread into picot of next ring. Last loop is made with five double knots, catch thread into picot of preceding loop; * two double knots, one picot; repeat from * twice more. Five double knots, catch into picot of last small ring of preceding row. Fasten extra thread very care- fully at this point, to insure against its slipping and the consequent loss of this last loop; cut close to knot. 4th row: Continue with bobbin thread as follows: Draw thread through nearest picot of last loop, make a fastening stitch, leaving the thread long enough to reach without pulling, from the point where loops end and this last row commences. Make a similar fasten- stitch in each picot of this loop. Carry thread, with- out pulling, along the edge of all the loops, until you reach the picot in the loop nearest the abdomen. 5th row: Make a ring of four double knots, catch in last picot of abdomen, four double knots, close. Another ring of four double knots, catch into thread joining last two picots of adjoining loop; two double knots, one picot, two double knots, close. Pass thread under this ring to the nearest picot (one of the two joined by thread into which this ring is fastened). Make another ring of four double knots, catch into nearest picot of next loop, two double knots, one picot, four double knots, close. Fasten off thread securely; break thread. 6th row: Tie the bobbin thread and the extra thread to the extreme end of the abdomen of the butterfly (it makes it less bungling to use the bobbin thread by tying it around the abdomen, leaving a piece long enough to work with as an extra thread). Over extra thread make three double knots, one picot with one double knot between, three double knots; catch thread into picot of central small ring of preceding row. Make a second loop like this first one, fastening it to picot of last small ring of the preceding row. Tie the extra thread securely, but do not break it, as you will need it to make the outside loops on the other wing. The second wing is made exactly like the first one, but you must, of course, work in the other direction from the body of the butterfly. Antennse — Draw the bobbin thread through one of the picots of the head, for one of these, pulling it through until it is long enough to work over as an extra thread. Tie in a firm knot, so that it will not slip. Make seventeen double knots over this extra thread. Make a ring of seven double knots; close. Tie the two threads very firmly, and cut close to knot. The other antenna is made like the first. Page 13 A Beautiful Collar of Tatting and Crochet Tatting medallions of any shape or size TO make this collar, a spool of medium crochet lace thread with a spool of No. 12 cotton are required ; a tatting shuttle, a patent steel crochet hook No. 11, and a collar pattern, cut in stiff paper. To make the tatting medallions FILL the shuttle, break the thread from the spool; measure eleven finger-lengths from the shuttle, do not cut it off, but let it hang down. Throw the shuttle thread over your left hand and work over it with shuttle, three double knots, one picot; three double knots, one picot, three double knots, one picot; three double knots, draw it up gently, tight and close. Throw the loose piece over the left hand, hold it be- tween the thumb and first finger, close to the wheel. With shuttle thread work over the piece around your hand, three double knots, one picot, two double knots, picot, two double knots, picot, two double knots, picot, two double knots, picot, three double knots; there are five picots here. Turn work over. With shuttle thread work three double knots, join it (using the crochet hook for the purpose) through third picot of first tiny wheel; three double knots, picot, three dou- ble knots, picot, three double knots; draw it up as before. Go on the same way until you come to the eighth wheel, which is the last. Here you make three double knots, join through third picot of seventh wheel; three double knots, one picot; three double knots; join through first picot of first wheel; three double knots; draw up close; make one more outside piece, tie the threads in a tight knot, cut off close and sew on the wrong side securely, so it will be sure not to come undone when laundered. The medallions are joined where they fit best on the pattern. Make the medallion up to the sixth in- side wheel; with outside thread make your two picots, two double knots; join through third picot; finish this like the others. Make the seventh wheel, then your two outside picots; join and finish same as the other medallion. To make the large crochet roses First round: Chain seven, join with slip-stitch through third of chain; chain six; into this space work five trebles, with two chain between; chain two, join with slip-stitch through third stitch of chain. Second round: Into each hole work one single, four doubles, one single. Third round: Chain four, hook it through last single of first shell; repeat around the row. Fourth round: Into each hole work one single, five doubles, one single. Fifth round: Chain five, hook it through last single of first shell in previous row. Sixth round: Into each hole put one single, seven doubles, one single. Seventh round: Like fifth, only add one stitch to each chain. Eighth round: Into each hole, one singe, nine doubles, one single. Ninth round: Like fifth, adding two stitches to each chain. Tenth round: Into each hole work one single, eleven doubles, one single; cut off thread about nine inches long, draw it through last loop, and use this piece for sewing the roses together. The second size roses are the same, only leave off the tenth and ninth rounds. For the third size, make five petals instead of six; widen to the seventh round; the tiny ones are only four rounds, five petals. The illustrations showing two tatting medallions and a large rose will aid in following the instructions. To make the collar JOIN two medallions. Now make part of another, place all on the paper pattern, and join the un- finished medallion so it will fit and lie flat; continue this way along the outer edge, and when you have enough made to go around, baste them on the paper pattern. Sew the roses in place, face down; make another row of medallions, fitting it on the paper as you work. Join it to the two front wheels each side the collar; baste it, then sew it to the roses; be- tween the roses make simple fagot stitch with the crochet cotton. A row of crocheted edging finishes the neck. Press the collar gently on the wrong side, with a warm iron, while still on the paper; rip it off care- fully. Dampen collar, place over Turkish toweling, then press on the wrong side, with a moderately hot iron, until dry. Page H Dainty yokes and edgings for little girls' dresses, babies' dresses and narrow yokes for underwear, as well as edge for dining-room linens, can be developed from this border, which may be used as insertion or edging Clover Leaf Edge TWO threads. Begin with the shuttle thread, six knots, one picot, six knots, five picots with two knots between each picot, six knots, one picot, six knots, close. Second leaf: six knots, join in the sin- gle picot opposite, six knots, five picots with two knots between each picot, six knots, one picot, six knots, close. Make another like this. When finished take a crochet hook and draw the shuttle thread through the space between the first and second leaf and fasten as closely together as possible. Just pull the shuttle thread and you will get the leaf as close as is needed. Now take the spool thread, eight knots, one picot, eight knots, three picots with two knots between, eight knots, one picot, eight knots. Join in the middle picot of opposite leaf, eight knots, one picot, eight knots. With the shuttle, five knots, join in the first of the five picots of the center clover leaf, five knots, one picot, five knots, close. With the spool thread, five knots. Now make another leaf the same as the first three leaves which form the clover, making sure that you join at the proper place. Turn so that this last clover points toward you, and with the spool thread make five knots. Turn the clover from you and with the shuttle, five knots, join in the single picot, five knots, one picot, five knots, close. Turn the work and with the spool thread, eight knots, join opposite in the corresponding bar, eight knots and join in the center picot of the side leaf of clover, eight knots. Join in the picot opposite bar to the right of the three picots of the same bar, eight knots, three picots with two knots between, eight knots, one picot, eight knots. Turn, with the shuttle, make six knots, one picot, six knots, two picots with two knots between. Join in picot at the opposite bar, two picots with two knots between, six knots, one picot, six knots, close. Six knots, join, six knots, join in the first of the five picots, in the leaf. Make four more picots with two knots between, six knots, one picot, six knots, close. Six knots, join, in the picot of the second leaf, six knots, five picots with two knots between, six knots, one picot, six knots, close. Now join the three leaves so that they are close together. Turn and with the spool thread, eight knots, join in the opposite picot, and proceed with the work as directed. No. 60 crochet cotton may be used for in- fants' yokes, and No. 30 for underwear. Even coarser thread may be used. The edge is very durable, made of linen thread. Luncheon sets fin- ished with this edge, made of coarse thread, are most satisfactory and attractive. Forget-me-not Insertion or Yoke TWO threads. With the shuttle thread, seven knots, one picot, seven knots, close. With the spool thread, begin with the knot, make seven picots with one knot between each picot. With the shuttle, seven knots, join in picot of ring, seven knots, close. Make seven knots, one picot, seven knots, close. With the spool thread, holding the rings toward you, repeat the bar. Turn, and repeat the two rings (see narrow edge). The width of the lace depends on the number of bars and double rings you start your work with. Finish with a bar when you have obtained the width you want. Turn the work with the rings pointing up. With the shuttle, repeat the ring, joining in the picot. Turn, and repeat the bar, holding the work toward you. Turn, with the shuttle, repeat the ring and join in the same place as the previous ring. Turn, and rfepeat the bar with the spool thread. Turn and repeat the ring and join in the same place. Repeat the ring and join between the next two rings. Turn and repeat the bar. Turn and repeat the ring, joining in the same A four-leaf clover design that can be used fur medallions, in- sertion or edge on neckivear and babies' garments, and may be adapted to a yoke for night- gowns or infants' dresses place as before. Repeat the ring and join in the next two rings. Turn and repeat the bar and the rings until you come to the top of your work, finishing with the forget-me-not. Turn the work down and with the spool thread, repeat the bar. Holding the work in same po- sition, repeat the ring. Now lay the work over the fingers, with the last made ring pointing to the right, and with the spool thread, beginning with the knot, make three picots, joining in the center of the seven picots previously made, three picots. With the shuttle and turning the work down, repeat the ring and join in the picot of ring. Repeat the ring with the one picot. Repeat the bar, joining in the center of the seven picots. Proceed until you come to the top. This brings your work to the point shown in the illustration. No. 60 crochet cotton should be used for underwear and house linens; No. 100 for handkerchiefs and infants' gar- ments. This design may be repeated to any width and is very pretty for square yokes. Made of heavy Mnen or ecru thread it will be a decorative fin- ish for dining-room covers of natural colored linen. Page 15 Six-pointed motif TWO threads. With the shuttle make a ring of six picots with one l