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A CAMP IN CONSOLATION VALLEY 
 
A GUIDE-BOOK 
 
 TO THE 
 
 LAKE LOUISE REGION 
 
 INCLUDING — 
 
 PARADISE VALLEY, VALLEY OF THE TEN PEAKS, 
 AND NEIGHBORHOOD OF LAKE O'HARA 
 
 WITH EIGHTEEN FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS 
 FROM PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN BY THE AUTHOR 
 
 WALTER DWIGHT WILCOX, F. R. G. S. 
 
 Author of "The Rockies of Canada" 
 
 COPYRIGHT 1909 BY 
 
 WALTER DWIGHT WILCOX 
 

 PRESS OF JCTDD & DETWEItER, INC. 
 WASHINGTON, D. C. 
 
 Two Cr,nh'% ^t^neived 
 JUL 6 ^^^^ 
 
 T COPY 'b/ 
 
PREFATORY NOTE. 
 
 The purpose of this little guide-book is to help visitors to 
 the Lake Louise region to spend their time as pleasantly as 
 possible. For the hurried traveler, an outline is given of the 
 most important trips. For those with unUmited time, a 
 considerable number of excursions are described — sufficient 
 to occupy the better part of a month. 
 
 The area described embraces the immediate neighborhood 
 of Lake Louise and the four adjoining valleys. This region 
 is one of the most interesting parts of the Canadian Rockies, 
 and is probably not excelled by any equal section in the 
 world for the number and variety of its scenic attractions. 
 In this part of the mountains, hardly ten miles square, are 
 found twenty peaks, fourteen of which are over ten thousand 
 feet and six are more than eleven thousand feet above sea- 
 level. The supreme idea of grandeur in mountain forms, 
 which is not dependent on height alone, is here realized in 
 these precipitous cliffs, which rise from 3,000 to 6,000 feet 
 above narrow, forested valleys. Glaciers two or three miles 
 long, countless snow-fields, rushing torrents and waterfalls, 
 rich forests, and park-hke expanses of Alpine flowers compel 
 unbounded admiration in every part of this region, but in 
 one respect especially this part of the Canadian Rockies has 
 no rival, whatever may be the diversity of opinion as to its 
 other charms, and that is in the beauty of its lakes. At 
 least three of these — Lakes Louise, Moraine, and O'Hara — are 
 easily without peers in the Canadian Rockies, while McAr- 
 thur and Wenkchemna lakes help make up a galaxy of 
 mountain tarns unequalled in any part of the world. 
 
 The work is the result of many summers of climbing and 
 scrambling in this the author's favorite part of the moun- 
 tains. The altitudes are those of the Topographical Survey 
 of Canada, supplemented in a few cases by the author's 
 
aneroid readings. The distances are calculations from the 
 author's own rate of walking, and the times required by the 
 various trips are obtained by adding one-fifth to same, :o 
 as to give a fairer average for those not in the best of tra i- 
 ing. No claim is laid to extrer le accuracy of detail, and 1 le 
 author invites such suggestior and information as may t^n- 
 hance the value of future ed ions. The illustrations have 
 been selected with the idea o giving the best general idea, 
 as well as to serve as a souveni. jf the more interesting views. 
 
 W. D. W. 
 Washington, D. C, July, 1909. 
 
 Page Four 
 
PART I. 
 
 LAKE LOUISE AND ITS IMMEDIATE VICINITY. 
 
 The following trips are recommended for those having 
 only a limited time at their disposal : 
 
 First day (morning) . — Ascent to upper lakes, and, if pos- 
 sible, to top of the Little Beehive (page 12). Afternoon. — 
 Walk around Lake Louise to end, or as far up valley as the 
 corduroy bridge (page 9). 
 
 Second day. — Ascent to Saddleback, with view of Mount 
 Temple and Paradise Valley (page 17). Afternoon.— Kow- 
 boat around lake. 
 
 Third day. — To Moraine Lake, in the valley of the Ten 
 Peaks, and, if possible, side excursion to Consolation Valley 
 (page 29). 
 
 Fourth day. — Paradise Valley to end, returning by way 
 of Giant Steps Falls (page 21) . 
 
 For those spending considerable time the following trips 
 are suggested: 1. To Lake O'Hara and Lake McArthur from 
 Hector. 2. Over the Mitre Col and return by Paradise Val- 
 ley. 3. To Lakes O'Hara and Hector or Field by way of 
 Abbot Pass. 4. Ascent of Mount Victoria. 
 
 Laggan, the railroad station for Lake Louise, is a small 
 settlement in the Bow Valley 5,037 feet above sea-level, 36 
 miles . northwest of Banff. It is a divisional point of the 
 Canadian Pacific Railway, and here also the time changes 
 from Mountain to Pacific, or vice versa. Near the station 
 is a granite shaft erected to the memory of Sir James He*- 
 tor, who, in connection with the Palliser Expedition, discov- 
 
 Page five 
 
ered, in 1858, the Kicking Horse Pass, by which the rail- 
 road crosses the highest range of the Rockies. The sur- 
 rounding forests were destroyed by fire many years ago, but 
 a vigorous growth of jack-pine is now rapidly covering the 
 bare hillsides. Vehicles and ponies meet all trains to con- 
 vey passengers to the chalet at Lake Louise. The distance by 
 new road is about three miles, but the time required for the 
 trip is nearly one hour, owing to the constant ascent, which 
 amounts to a total of 633 feet. 
 
 The Bow River, a swiftly rushing glacial stream, is crossed 
 by an iron bridge. Near this is a small' spring of excellent 
 water. The carriage road follows the Bow River a short dis- 
 tance, and then makes a gentle ascent through pine forests, 
 which soon open up and disclose the torrential outlet stream 
 from Lake Louise, on the left. Following this, on the west 
 bank, in constant and rather steep ascent, the road crosses 
 the stream (one mile) by a log bridge, and a long detour is 
 made through the woods in order to avoid the excessive 
 grades of the old road. Those who prefer to walk, however, 
 should follow the old road along banks of the stream to the 
 chalet, which may be reached on foot in 45 minutes from the 
 station. 
 
 Excellent views of the mountains, especially of Mount 
 Temple, are to be had from the new road as it winds through 
 light forests. A sharp turn is made (1% miles), and at two 
 miles the stream is again crossed and followed the remainder 
 of the distance to the chalet. Not far from the chalet the 
 electric-lighting plant is passed, and a few hundred yards 
 above this there is a dam where the water is collected for 
 power. The grade soon diminishes, and the noisy stream is 
 hushed as it flows in a broad channel through heavy forests. 
 Glimpses of snow-fields are caught amongst the tall and slen- 
 der spruce trees, and the blue-green waters of Lake Louise 
 are seen as the chalet is reached. 
 
 *Lake Louise Chalet, delightfully situated at the north- 
 east end of Lake Louise, has accommodations for 175 to 200 
 guests. There are 120 rooms, of which 83 have baths con- 
 necting. Though this hotel is located in the heart of the 
 mountains and the surrounding region was an unexplored 
 
 Page Six 
 
and almost unknown wilderness as late as 1890, the visitor 
 may now enjoy such modern comforts as electric lights, 
 steam heat, running water, and an excellent cuisine, amid 
 homelike and restful surroundings. The original log chalet, 
 built in 1890, burned down in 1892, and a small frame 
 structure, capable of accommodating a dozen guests, was 
 built in 1893. Additions were made from time to time to 
 provide for the rapidly increasing number of visitors. In 
 the summer of 1893 there were about 50 visitors to Lake 
 Louise, and in 1908 there were more than 5,700. The orig- 
 inal frame chalet is now incorporated in the general sitting- 
 room and music-room. Large, open fireplaces, where pine 
 and spruce logs burn brightly, temper the chill of evening 
 and early morning and give a cheerful aspect to the public 
 rooms. The verandas and large windows on the lake side of 
 the building give unrivaled views. 
 
 Rooms, American plan, $3.50 to $5.00; with bath, $4.50 
 and upward. Conveyance between Laggan and chalet, 50 
 cents each way; trunks, 75 cents for round trip; hand bag- 
 gage free. Guides and ponies for excursions in the vicin- 
 ity or for short camping trips and Swiss guides for moun- 
 tain climbing may be arranged for at hotel office. Sleeping- 
 car reservations, telegrams, and telephonic messages to Field 
 and Banff, at office. 
 
 ** Lake Louise, one of the most beautiful lakes in the 
 world, hardly known before 1890, when the first chalet was 
 built, is now justly celebrated for an unusual combination of 
 Alpine grandeur with beauty of forested slopes and richly- 
 colored water. The lake is 5,670 feet above sea-level, 1^ 
 miles in length by one-fourth mile in width, and opposite the 
 rock slide is 230 feet deep. The lake was visited as early as 
 1882 by Mr. T. E. Wilson, and again in 1886 by Dr. Ed- 
 wards, a British scientist, who named it after his eldest 
 daughter. The earliest available description of this spot is 
 given in "Among the Selkirk Glaciers," by Dr. Green, who 
 visited the lake in 1888. 
 
 Mount Victoria (11,355 feet), the most conspicuous feat- 
 ure of the view, is a lofty wall of rock running at 
 right angles to the line of vision, closing in the valley and 
 
 Page Seven 
 
forming a part of the continental divide between the waters 
 that flow into the Atlantic and those that drain into the 
 Pacific. Its base is a precipice about 1,500 feet high, while 
 its upper half is almost completely covered with snow and 
 glaciers from 200 to 250 feet thick, where they are crowded 
 over the upper part of the precipice. In hot weather the 
 thunder of avalanches is frequently heard, as immense 
 masses of ice break off and fall to the glacier below. As 
 the sound requires about 20 seconds to reach the chalet, these 
 avalanches are usually ended before the attention is called to 
 them. To the left, and somewhat nearer, a part of the 
 helmet-shaped Mount Lefroy is visible. 
 
 On the right may be seen, in relief against the sky, the 
 two rocky and nearly bare summits of Mount Whyte and 
 Mount Niblock. Still farther to the right is the cone-shaped 
 Mount Saint Piran, and to the left of this, and much lower, 
 is the dome of rock called the Beehive. To the left of the 
 lake the imposing precipices of Mount Fairview rise in an 
 impressive wall of rock, at the base of which rests a vast 
 slide of rock partially filling the lake. It represents the 
 erosive action of past ages on the upper cliffs of the moun- 
 tain. Visitors should be cautious in approaching this and 
 similar slopes on account of the frequent rock-falls. 
 
 It is very difficult, at first sight, even for those experienced 
 among mountains, to appreciate the true scale and perspec- 
 tive of such a scene. To get a better idea, the visitor should 
 gradually accustom himself to the following distances: It 
 is one mile and a quarter to the end of the lake, and about 
 two miles in a straight line to the nearest moraine debris, 
 where a stream is seen beyond the water. Above this the 
 glacier extends two miles farther to the lowermost cliffs of 
 Mount Victoria, to reach which from the chalet would re- 
 quire about two hours' hard walking. The summit of Mount 
 Victoria is about five miles distant in a straight line, and 
 rises more than a mile in vertical height above the lake. 
 
 The nearly vertical lower cliffs of Mount Fairview on the 
 left rises between 1,700 and 1,800 feet above the lake. If 
 the lake were deep enough to submerge three such cliffs, 
 piled one on top of the other, the bottom would be several 
 
 Page Eight 
 
hundred feet above sea-level. The top of this cliff is about 
 on a level with the ice of the Victoria glacier as seen at the 
 base of Mount Victoria. Another such cliff piled on top 
 of the first would reach the top of the hanging glacier, and 
 still a third cliff piled on top of the other two and placed in 
 front of Mount Victoria would leave fully 600 feet of the lat- 
 ter's snowy crest towering above. The Beehive, on the right, 
 is about the same height as this cliff, while Mounts Whyte 
 and Niblock, though rising over 4,000 feet above the lake, 
 are one-third of a mile lower than Mount Victoria. In rainy 
 weather the level of the clouds makes these facts strikingly 
 apparent. 
 
 **Excursion to end of lake (by boat, 20 minutes ; on foot, 
 25-30 minutes) is highly recommended, both by boat and 
 on foot, as one of the most satisfactory of the easier trips 
 at Lake Louise. The trail commences on your right, or 
 north shore of the lake, near the boat-house, and follows 
 the water closely throughout. The view changes constantly 
 and is highly interesting. There is a rustic pavilion (about 
 1/4 mile) commanding a fine view, and shortly beyond this 
 a small rivulet enters the lake, which bursts out of the ground 
 in a beautiful spring about 80 feet above. The snowy dome 
 of Mount Lefroy, the imposing peak of Mount Aberdeen, 
 and the nearer spires and minarets of a wall-like spur from 
 Mount Fairview appear as you progress. Near the lake end 
 there is a very good view of Mount Lefroy, seen through the 
 constricted and canyon-like valley, but even this imposing 
 mountain cannot arouse greater admiration than the frown- 
 ing cliffs that now appear directly ahead. Excessively steep, 
 and even perpendicular in places, for several hundred feet 
 of vertical height, these cliffs show an unusual variety of 
 color, partly due to the several kinds of stone of which they 
 are composed and to the iron and other minerals with which 
 the dripping water has stained the rock walls in vertical 
 bands. Crossing an open slide, decorated in midsummer by 
 false forget-me-nots and other Alpine plants, the trail leads 
 up to the base of the cliffs. Here, in the partial gloom of the 
 forest, the cliffs above can be more thoroughly studied. The 
 narrow shelves of rock, three or four hundred feet above, 
 
 Page Nine 
 
hardly seem adequate support for the clinging spruces which 
 are now seen directly overhead. Descending through a mas- 
 sive pile of rocks, which have fallen in past ages from the 
 cliffs, the trail reaches a flat meadow at the lake end (1% 
 miles) , filled with cotton grass and sedges. This nearly level 
 meadow, extending for nearly a quarter mile up the valley, 
 represents the former lake bed, now filled in with mud 
 and gravel from the glacier. In hot weather the discolored 
 stream may be seen extending a long way into the lake. 
 
 The Victoria Glacier and cliffs of Mount Victoria. — From 
 end of lake the trip may be extended (20 minutes) over a 
 good trail to a footbridge, near end of glacier, or (1% hours) 
 over more difiicult trail to edge of the middle glacier and 
 cliffs of Mount Victoria. The trail, crossing the ramifying 
 branches of the inlet stream, now becomes faint until in a 
 few hundred yards it enters a deep forest on the north side 
 of a brawling torrent and ascends rapidly in steep pitches, 
 crossing open slides filled with cow-parsnip and false helle- 
 bore, to reach the lowermost of the ancient bear-den mo- 
 raines, one of which is crossed by a rustic footbridge (2^ 
 miles from chalet). After crossing this bridge the trail 
 winds amongst the rocks and continues across a gravel wash 
 to a point near end of the glacier, where the torrential stream 
 is hemmed in by a low, rocky cliff. To avoid this the trail 
 turns to the right and seeks an outlet onto the well-defined 
 moraine of the glacier. From this point on the trail becomes 
 fainter, but there is no difficulty in following a fairly good 
 route over these moraine ridges for about three-fourths of a 
 mile farther, when the walking becomes much easier and 
 pleasanter to (5 miles) base of Mount Victoria. 
 
 The Victoria Glacier, three miles long by one-half mile 
 wide, can be explored from this part of the valley. A Swiss 
 guide should be employed to point out the interesting sights, 
 such as glacial tables, where the great boulders are seen sup- 
 ported on pillars of ice, glacial streams, the curious surface 
 lakelets, mouhns, crevasses, etc. The trip over the ice should 
 be extended to the base of the cliffs of Mount Lefroy (well 
 worth seeing at close range) and the base of Abbot Pass, 
 formerly known as the Death Trap. 
 
 Page Ten 
 
LAKE LOUISE AND MOUNT LEFROY 
 
The Lefroy Glacier is a branch of the Victoria Glacier, 
 lying between Mounts Lefroy and Aberdeen, and is over a 
 mile long by nearly half a mile wide. It is hemmed in by 
 the Mitre Mountain at its upper end, and by the precipices 
 of Mount Lefroy, which here rise in an unbroken wall about 
 2,500 feet above the ice. If the weather is warm the visitor 
 may be rewarded by seeing one of the inspiring avalanches 
 that descend either from the hanging glaciers of this moun- 
 tain or from those of Mount Victoria. 
 
 Dr. Scherzer gives the following information relative to 
 these glaciers: The Victoria Glacier originates at Abbot's 
 Pass, flows due north for a mile between the precipitous walls 
 of Mounts Victoria and Lefroy, makes an abrupt turn to 
 the northeast, and pursues a straight course for another two 
 miles before wasting away in the Lake Louise Valley. The 
 lower 1% miles present a remarkably even surface, so that 
 it may be ascended by the most inexperienced. The thick- 
 ness of the ice opposite the Lefroy tributary is probably from 
 500 to 600 feet. The calculated annual flow of ice down the 
 valley ranges from a few inches near the edges of the glacier 
 up to about 66 feet near the center of the stream. According 
 to measurements carried on by the Messrs. Vaux, and later 
 by Dr. Scherzer, the glacier retreated an average of 14% feet 
 yearly from 1899 to 1905. 
 
 *The Mitre Col (8,500 feet), lying between Mount Aber- 
 deen and the Mitre, may be ascended (guides advisable) by 
 way of the Lefroy Glacier and descent made into Paradise 
 Valley, passing the Giant Steps Falls and returning by trail 
 to chalet. This all-day trip, wdth its glacier and snow work, 
 gives a great variety of climbing and affords a constant suc- 
 cession of inspiring and beautiful views. The Mitre is as- 
 cended by way of this pass, but is a cliff-climbing problem 
 of considerable difficulty only hitherto solved by a very few 
 parties. 
 
 **The ascent of Mount Victoria (11,355 feet), recom- 
 mended as the most interesting of the accessible Alpine peaks 
 near Lake Louise, is made by way of Abbot Pass. This is a 
 high col or snow pass (9,588 feet) between Mount Victoria 
 and Mount Lefroy, named for Philip S. Abbot, who lost his 
 
 Page Eleven 
 
life here in 1896 while attempting the ascent of Mount Le- 
 froy. (See Appalachia, Vol. VIII, No. 2.) The rope is 
 usually put on shortly after rounding the rock buttress of 
 Mount Lefroy, from which point the snow-covered glacier 
 slopes lead up steeply into a narrow gorge hemmed in by the 
 precipices and hanging glaciers of Mount Victoria. Danger 
 of avalanches in this particular part suggested the original 
 name of the "Death Trap," still applied locally to the lower 
 part of Abbot Pass. From the summit of this pass a re- 
 markable view is unfolded on both sides, but more particu- 
 larly towards the south, where Mount Biddle and other lofty 
 and sharp peaks tower above a sea of snow and rocks, mak- 
 ing an awesome but inspiring panorama. The descent to 
 Lake O'Hara by way of Lake Oesa is steep in upper part, but 
 soon becomes less difficult. The ascent of Mount Victoria is 
 interesting and varied from the summit of Abbot Pass. A 
 rather steep rock buttress is climbed just above the pass lead- 
 ing out to a rocky arete. This is now followed either on the 
 rocks or the crest of a snow ridge to the summit, which, how- 
 ever, lying a mile or more in a straight line to the north, is 
 only reached after several hours' work. The difficulty of 
 this ascent along this high, exposed ridge depends, of course, 
 largely on weather conditions, and the Swiss guides will be 
 able to advise fully in regard to same. The variety of 
 work required and the constantly interesting panorama make 
 Mount Victoria one of the most advisable climbs, especially 
 as the entire ascent may be made with a comfortable hotel 
 as a base. The north arete of Mount Victoria is defended 
 by gendarmes and vertical precipices, and the ascent has not 
 been made as yet from this side. 
 
 *3Iirror Lake and Lake Agnes. — (To Mirror Lake, 30 
 minutes ; to Lake Agnes, 45 minutes. Horses may be taken 
 nearly to Lake Agnes, the higher of the two lakes, and last 
 part made on foot.) This trip, involving a climb of 1,000 
 feet to Mirror Lake and 1,200 feet to Lake Agnes, is very 
 interesting and gives a good general idea of the surrounding 
 mountains. 
 
 The trail commences north of the chalet, a little to the 
 right of the trail round the lake, and ascends in sharp grade. 
 
 Page Twelve 
 
almost without interruption for first half mile, through a 
 light forest of spruce and pine. The shrubby bushes are 
 mostly mountain rhododendron, flowering throughout July 
 and August, the bushes at higher altitudes being correspond- 
 ingly later. The trail passes a reservoir for the chalet water 
 supply, and at about 600 feet elevation turns to the left in a 
 nearly level traverse, and is thereafter of much easier grade. 
 The hardest and least interesting part of the climb is over at 
 this point. Gradually ascending, the trail enters a heavier 
 forest, and winding amongst some large moss-covered stones, 
 divides, the right-hand trail ascending sharply to come down 
 on Lake Agnes from above, the left-hand branch continuing 
 in easier grade to Mirror Lake, and thence to Lake Agnes 
 from below. Either route may be taken, but the left-hand 
 trail is advised, as it is easier and the scenery is revealed in a 
 more interesting manner. In a short distance from the 
 division of the trail Mirror Lake, a round pool 100 yards 
 across, is seen on the right, fed by the waters of Lake Agnes, 
 and seeking an underground outlet to Lake Louise. From 
 its secluded position in the forest and its small size, the water 
 is rarely disturbed by the breezes, and hence its surface 
 usually reflects the surrounding cliffs and trees in a mirror- 
 like surface. A rounded dome of rock called the Beehive, 
 from its peculiar shape, is the most striking feature from the 
 shores of Mirror Lake. The summit of this is about 750 
 feet above the lake and its upper cliffs are nearly perpen- 
 dicular. 
 
 The trail continues to the left of the lake and ascends 
 sharply for a short distance to an opening amongst the trees, 
 whence a fine view may be obtained of the snowy crest of 
 Mount Aberdeen to the south. The Lyall's larch, a tree re- 
 sembling the tamarack, is now seen on all sides, and is an 
 indication of the increasing altitude. The eastern cliffs of 
 the Beehive and the broken rocks which have fallen from 
 them in past ages are imposing from this point. As the trail 
 turns to the right it begins to skirt the base of the Beehive, 
 showing Mirror Lake below and giving a very extensive view 
 across the Bow Valley and the mountains of the Sawback 
 Range to the east The view rapidly increases in interest 
 
 Page Thirteen 
 
as the trail ascends in sharp zigzags, allowing a glimpse of 
 the outlet stream from Lake Agnes, which falls in a pretty 
 cascade over rock ledges to the right, and finally reaches a 
 steep flight of steps, ascending which the visitor stands upon 
 the heath-lined shore of — 
 
 Lake Agnes. — This lake, about one-fourth of a mile long, 
 is 6,875 feet above sea-level, or almost exactly 1,200 feet 
 above Lake Louise. It was named for Agnes Knox, who 
 visited it September 15, 1890, the first woman to reach the 
 lake, which must have been a very trying ordeal through the 
 trailless forests. The lake occupies the foot of a rather bar- 
 ren, cirque-like valley between the Beehive and Mount Saint 
 Piran, and overhung by the cliffs of Mount Whyte and 
 Mount Niblock. The north exposure and great altitude of 
 this little lake cause the snows of winter to linger round 
 these barren shores till midsummer, and the winter coat of 
 ice sometimes does not melt away till the first week in July. 
 Near the outlet stream is a rustic cabin erected as a shelter 
 against sudden storms. 
 
 From near the cabin the trail turns to the north, and, 
 ascending slightly, crosses the face of a steep, rocky slope, 
 whence, amongst the clinging trees, very inspiring views 
 may be had of the cliffs of the Beehive and distant moun- 
 tains. Traversing a bare slope, whence the snowy crest of 
 Mount Lefroy appears above the Beehive, the trail now de- 
 scends in sharp zigzags amongst open larch groves to join the 
 trail near Mirror Lake, 
 
 Many variations and extensions of this excursion may be 
 made by those desirous of getting a further insight into the 
 truly remarkable scenery to be enjoyed from near-by points, 
 of which the following, to the summit of the Little Beehive, 
 is strongly recommended. 
 
 From the highest part of the trail, as it crosses the bare 
 slope mentioned a few lines above, may be seen a line of 
 cliffs to the north, about one-fourth of a mile distant and 
 a few hundred feet higher, towards which an easy route 
 may be selected over the somewhat rocky and heath-covered 
 slope, gradually ascending so as to come out above the cliffs. 
 A grove of larches is entered and a shght descent made, only 
 
 Page Fourteen 
 
MOUNTS ABERDEEN AND LEFROY FROM THE LITTLE BEEHIVE 
 
to rise again in another hundred yards. Here it is advisable 
 to keep near the edge of the cliffs, so as to get a better view of 
 the scenery, which increases in interest till the rolling, larch- 
 crowned summit of the Little Beehive is reached. From the 
 edge of this cliff there is a — 
 
 ** Magnificent view of the snowy summits of Mounts Vic- 
 toria, Lefroy, and Aberdeen, and even distant Hungabee, in 
 Paradise Valley, now looming up in inspiring grandeur 
 across the deep, forested valley of Lake Louise, the banded 
 cliffs of the Beehive and the sparkling Mirror Lake at its 
 base, while farther to the left is the giant dome of Mount 
 Temple and Mount Fairview. To the east and north lies 
 the open sweep of the Bow Valley, showing the mountains 
 from near Banff around to the north, where may be seen 
 (by walking a hundred yards to the other side of the ridge 
 top) the Pipestone Valley, Mounts Molar and Hector, the 
 upper Bow Valley and Hector Lake, with the distant and 
 snowy peaks near the source of the Bow River. On a bright 
 day it is advisable to take luncheon in this spot and spend 
 several hours enjoying this almost unrivalled panorama. 
 To those who have been stimulated by this scene to make 
 further efforts the ascent is recommended of — 
 
 Mount Saint Piran (8,681 feet, named for town in Corn- 
 wall, birthplace of W. J. Astley, the first manager of the 
 Lake Louise chalet) . The mountain seems deceptively near, 
 but as a matter of fact the top of the Little Beehive is only 
 a little more than half the height from Lake Louise to the 
 summit of Saint Piran. There is no difficulty, however, for 
 vigorous walkers of either sex, provided with nailed shoes, in 
 reaching the rocky, nearly barren summit (40 to 50 min- 
 utes) from the Little Beehive. Route is obvious from below. 
 
 * The vieiu from summit is magnificent, being an exten- 
 sion of that from the Little Beehive, and includes, besides, a 
 glimpse of the deep gorge or short valley north of Mount 
 Niblock, with a small lake far below. The altitude here is 
 almost exactly 3,000 feet above Lake Louise, and slightly 
 more than half the height of Mount Victoria above same. 
 This level also very nearly marks the extreme upper hmit 
 of vegetation. A few species of hardy Alpine plants, mostly 
 
 Page Fifteen 
 
composites, are visited on bright days by rare kinds of but- 
 terflies and insects, only found elsewhere in the Arctic re- 
 gions. The descent may be varied by climbers of a little 
 experience by following the south slopes in a direction 
 towards Mount Niblock and coming down the Alpine Valley, 
 which ends at Lake Agnes. 
 
 The Beehive (7,430 feet) may be ascended by skirting 
 Lake Agnes on the left or south side, using caution amongst 
 the unbalanced and somewhat treacherous rocks along the 
 shore, until a grassy and wooded slope is reached near the 
 end of the lake, when the very steep but safe (shoes should 
 be hob-nail'ed) ascent is made, 555 feet, to the pleasant, 
 larch-covered and nearly flat summit. From this point — 
 
 * The view of Mount Lefroy and the upper part of the 
 Lake Louise Valley is magnificent and awe-inspiring. The 
 visitor should cautiously approach the nearly vertical clifiFs 
 on the east and north sides to obtain an idea of their height 
 and steepness. From the flat top of the Beehive the trip 
 may be extended in a very interesting climb along the lower 
 ledges of Mount Whyte, which may be traversed in a direc- 
 tion towards Mount Victoria on a nearly level route, much 
 facilitated by trails made by the wild goats. The views are 
 interesting, and divide the attention with the cliffs on the 
 right and the beautiful Alpine flowers which grow amongst 
 these high ledges. The descent may be made directly to the 
 Lake Louise Valley, but this is a rough scramble at best. 
 The route should be studied out in order to avoid, as far as 
 possible, the scrubby brush and ledges which are the only 
 difficulties. 
 
 The Devil's Thumb (8,065 feet), a rocky cliff above the 
 Beehive, may be ascended easily from the above described 
 ledges or directly from the lower valley, but the route should 
 be chosen in advance, as it is possible to lose the bearings 
 when actually on the mountain side. 
 
 * The view is similar to that from the Beehive, but the 
 awe-inspiring cliffs on the Lake Agnes side are the most 
 interesting feature. 
 
 Ascent of pass between Mount Saint Piran and Mount 
 Niblock via Lake Agnes, and descent of the next valley to 
 
 Page Sixteen 
 
Temple 
 
 .\'o. 6 No. 7 Deltaform Neptuak Wliyte Lefroy 
 
 Abbot Pass Biddle 
 
the north, and return by Hector trail to the chalet. This 
 rather rough trip, requiring 4 to 5 hours, is recommended 
 only to those spending a long time at Lake Louise. The 
 ascent to Lake Agnes is made in the usual way, and the lake 
 shore is skirted over the broken stones and boulders on north 
 side of lake. The general trend of the valley is followed 
 with ease, turning gradually to the right, and an ascent made 
 towards the lowest part of the depression between Mounts 
 Niblock and Saint Piran. The snow patch on north side of 
 the pass, somewhat steep in upper part, must be negotiated 
 with care when frozen hard, after which there is no difficulty 
 in the descent of the valley to a small lake (5,900 feet), 150 
 yards across, overhung by the gloomy precipices of Mount 
 Niblock to the north, which latter rise nearly 4,000 feet 
 above this rarely visited and lonely tarn. The view is im- 
 pressive but forbidding. The descent of the outlet stream, 
 which soon becomes a succession of cascades and pretty falls 
 through heavy timber, is trying and rough. The trail is 
 found at length at a point about two miles from the chalet. 
 The great number of intersecting trails and old roads of the 
 last mile are confusing, but by taking every turn to the right 
 the chalet may be reached without loss of time. If this ex- 
 cursion is reversed, the services of some one familiar with 
 the trail should be secured to accompany the party for the 
 first mile or so, and the location of the upper valley contain- 
 ing the lake should be clearly in mind in order to avoid 
 mistakes and possible failure. 
 
 The Saddleback, an Alpine meadow about 1,800 feet above 
 Lake Louise, lying south of Fairview Mountain, from 
 which there may be obtained a magnificent view of Mount 
 Temple and Paradise Valley, may be reached in an hour 
 from the chalet, and is probably the finest of all the near-by 
 excursions. 
 
 The trail starts from the east end of the chalet, and, cross- 
 ing the outlet stream by a corduroy bridge, whence a fine 
 view of the lake is obtained, plunges at once into a deep and 
 mossy forest, and begins a rapid ascent of the lower slopes of 
 Fairview Mountain. The trail divides (6 minutes), the one 
 on the left being the main trail to Paradise Valley, the Val- 
 
 Page Seventeen 
 
ley of the Ten Pealcs, and Moraine Lake. The trail to the 
 right is followed, which, ascending rapidly, eventually turns 
 to the left and crosses the open track of a former snow-slide 
 (18 minutes; about one-third of the distance to the Saddle- 
 back) , whence a first view is obtained of the open Bow Val- 
 ley and the distant mountains of the Pipestone and upper 
 Bow Valleys. A much nearer view is also obtained of Fair- 
 view Mountain, the cliffs of which now loom above on the 
 southwest. The trail ascends in very sharp pitches and fre- 
 quent zigzags through spruce and larch groves. Upon reach- 
 ing an open flank of the mountain (40 minutes) there is a 
 view of the top of the Saddleback lying to the south, appear- 
 ing deceptively near, this point being only two-thirds of the 
 way from the chalet to the Saddleback. The enlarging view 
 and beautiful Alpine flowers are a partial compensation for 
 the somewhat arduous final part of the cUmb. The trail, 
 after a long traverse, makes the final ascent in several sharp 
 zigzags through a grove of fine larches. At the second turn- 
 ing the snowy crest of Mount Temple appears (53 minutes), 
 rising above the green slopes of the meadow, brilliantly white 
 and inspiringly beautiful in clear weather. As the slope 
 falls away the trail becomes indistinct in the grass and heaths 
 which here make an Alpine meadow, typical of the higher 
 Canadian Rockies. The visitor is very likely to see one or 
 more marmots or sifHeurs and hear their piercing whistles 
 while approaching this beautiful spot, and with care and pa- 
 tience in arousing their curiosity they may be approached 
 quite closely and photographed. There is a rare chance also 
 of seeing a herd of Rocky Mountain goats, either on the 
 south flanks of Fairview Mountain or near the base of Mount 
 Sheol, as you look into Paradise Valley. Somewhat above 
 the lowest part of the pass there is a log cabin (60 minutes), 
 placed here as a shelter in time of storm. Following a faintly 
 marked trail from near the cabin in the direction of Mount 
 Temple, and descending about 50 feet through the larch 
 trees, a small cliff is reached where there may be obtained an 
 **ExceUent view of Mount Temple and Paradise Valley. 
 This inspiring view, of its kind probably not excelled on this 
 continent, comprises the massive glacier-crowned Mount 
 
 Page Eighteen 
 
MOUNT TEMPLE FROM THE SADDLEBACK 
 
Temple (11,626 feet), one of the highest peaks of the Cana- 
 dian Kockies, rising 6,000 feet in almost vertical precipices 
 out of the green, forest-clad Paradise Valley. At the base 
 of the mountain is Lake Annette, a sparkling pool, clear and 
 green as an emerald. The milky, glacial torrent, descending 
 from the ice fields at the valley end, appears like a silver 
 thread winding amongst the forest trees 2,000 feet below. 
 The dark and frowning precipices of Mount Sheol hem in 
 the valley and shut off the view on the right. 
 
 Saddle Mountain, a rocky summit lying to the east, may 
 be reached in 20 minutes from this point without difficulty, 
 and is recommended as giving a good view of Pinnacle 
 Mountain, the Bow Valley towards Banff, and the remark- 
 able chffs of the mountain itself. The upper or highest part 
 of the ridge is selected as a route, and the only part requiring 
 caution is amongst the large, loose stones near the summit. 
 The climber should endeavor to get a view down the cliffs 
 on the east side of this mountain, approaching the verge of 
 the vertical precipices with care. 
 
 Fairview Mountain, which from the Saddleback resembles 
 a conical pile of debris, may be ascended in one hour from 
 this point. A trail commences near the cabin and winds up 
 the southeast face of the mountain, but the visitor may select 
 almost any route on this side of the mountain over as far 
 as the skyline on the right. This climb, though somewhat 
 monotonous, is entirely free from any difficulties. 
 
 *The view from the summit (9,001 feet) is very good, 
 especially of Mounts Victoria, Aberdeen, and Temple. The 
 panorama on the other sides comprises an immense sweep 
 of the Bow and Pipestone valleys. 
 
 A somewhat longer, though very interesting, walk may be 
 had by returning to chalet by way of Paradise Valley. The 
 descent is made from the viewpoint near the cabin (a rather 
 rough scramble) to reach the trail in Paradise Valley (30 
 to 40 minutes), near the base of Saddle Mountain, from 
 which point to the chalet will require about 1% hours. 
 
 Page Nineteen 
 
PART II. 
 
 PARADISE VALLEY. 
 
 Paradise Valley, so named from its unusual beauty, is the 
 first valley to the east of Lake Louise. It is about six miles 
 long by a mile or more in width, and, running northeast, 
 opens into the Bow Valley. About 5,900 feet in altitude at 
 its opening, the level of the valley floor gradually ascends 
 to over 7,000 feet at moraine of the Horseshoe Glacier. 
 Hemmed in by precipitous mountains, three of which are 
 over 11,000 feet high, namely, Mounts Temple, Hungabee, 
 and Lefroy, adorned with rich, primeval forests, waterfalls, 
 glaciers, and other natural attractions, this easily accessible 
 valley is well worthy of a visit. The upper part, owing to its 
 altitude and north exposure, is usually covered with snow 
 till the middle of July, and, if possible, a visit later in the 
 season is advisable. 
 
 The lower end of the valley is reached by trail (on foot 
 or horseback) in less than one hour from the chalet. The 
 trail (excellent for the first 3 miles) crosses bridge at outlet 
 of Lake Louise, and, ascending through deep forests, divides 
 (6 minutes — 175 feet above Lake Louise), the right-hand 
 trail ascending to the Saddleback. The left branch, gradu- 
 ally ascending, reaches (25 minutes) the path of a snow- 
 slide from the Saddleback, which it follows in a very steep 
 ascent till it attains a height of 375 feet above Lake Louise. 
 From here on trail gradually descends and (55 minutes — 
 about 3 miles) reaches point where Paradise Valley trail 
 branches off to the right or south. The approach to junction 
 of this trail may be recognized by a sharp turn where trail 
 crosses a shallow, ravine-hke depression 200 yards before 
 Paradise Valley trail is reached. About one-fourth mile iur- 
 
 Page Twenty-one 
 
ther on, the main trail, continuing east, crosses the Paradise 
 Valley stream by a corduroy bridge to reach the valley of 
 the Ten Peaks. 
 
 An alternative route thus far is by carriage road to the 
 Paradise Valley stream. Near the bridge over this a steep 
 trail commences and ascends along west bank of stream one- 
 fourth mile to upper trail. From here follow main trail back 
 one-fourth mile to junction with Paradise Valley trail. 
 
 The Paradise Valley trail, from point of junction with 
 main trail, leads southward through heavy forests, and (4 
 minutes) allows the first view of the triangular peak of 
 Mount Hungabee at head of the valley. At length the nearly 
 level trail, skirting the swamps at the valley entrance, be- 
 comes rough (4 miles from chalet) as it crosses rock slides 
 from Saddle Mountain on the right. The scenery now ap- 
 proaches a cliiniax of grandeur when, after traversing some 
 virgin forests of spruce and crossing a small, mossy stream 
 (5 miles) that descends from the valley between Mount 
 Sheol and Fairview Mountain, the sound of the now rapid 
 creek is heard and openings in the forest permit views of the 
 surrounding mountains. To the north is Saddle Mountain 
 and the conical pile of Fairview Mountain. Above long 
 slopes of grass, the imposing cliffs of Mount Sheol rise on 
 the right, richly colored red and yellow, and beautified by 
 narrow ledges with clinging trees. To the south is Mount 
 Temple, crowned with a glacier of matchless purity and 
 whiteness. The trail, following the Paradise stream closely 
 for some distance, affords excellent views of the cliffs of 
 Mount Temple, which here rise more than a mile in vertical 
 height above the valley. The actual summit is nearly 6,000 
 feet above the trail, and the wall of ice above the cliff is from 
 200 to 300 feet thick. Crossing many openings in the for- 
 est made by snow-slides, the visitor arrives (2 hours 20 
 minutes) at the 1907 camp of the Alpine Club of Canada. 
 The trail crosses stream (bridge), and after half a mile re- 
 crosses (footbridge). 
 
 The two streams making the Paradise Valley creek here 
 unite, one coming from meadows in the extreme north- 
 
 Page Twenty-two 
 
western side of the valley and descending in a fine cascade 
 called the Giant Steps Falls (one-half mile above) , and the 
 other from similar meadows on the other side of the valley. 
 Trail now rapidly ascends a ridge between the two streams, 
 through spruce forests, allowing a fine view of rapids on the 
 left until, after a sharp ascent, open meadows and larch 
 groves diversify the landscape. The scenery here approaches 
 a second climax of beauty, and throughout the next mile 
 there is a constant succession of excellent views in every 
 direction. The trail becomes faint in places as it crosses the 
 open meadows on west side of stream, some distance above it, 
 and finally ends near the glacial moraine in the very center 
 of the valley. 
 
 The open, upper part of Paradise Valley, during the 
 months of July and August, is a veritable Alpine flower 
 garden of great beauty. The rolling ridges, crowned with 
 larches, are masses of color — red, yellow, white, and purple — 
 when the painted cups, arnicas, and asters are at the height 
 of their glory. The two swampy meadows on either side of 
 the central ridge which divides the upper valley are filled 
 with equisetums and masses of white cotton grass. On every 
 side are mountains of varied form, making a great encircling 
 amphitheater or cul de sac, with a narrow opening down the 
 valley as the only apparent outlet. Taking up the peaks in 
 detail, the triangular rock pyramid at end of valley is Mount 
 Hungabee (11,447 feet). On the right is a lesser peak and 
 the long wall of Mount Lefroy forming an imposing preci- 
 pice. Separated by a glacier is the difficult Mitre Mountain, 
 showing two peaks from this point of view. On the other 
 side of the Mitre Pass, to the north, is a high spur of Mount 
 Aberdeen, beyond which the lower slopes of Mount Aberdeen 
 and Mount Sheol are seen extending down the valley. Start- 
 ing once more with Mount Hungabee, there are seen on the 
 left three lesser peaks, the first of which is a part of the same 
 ridge. Between the rounded dome to the south and the 
 easily recognized Eiffel Peak, with its cleft, tooth-like sum- 
 mit, is the AVastach Pass. To the left of Eiffel Peak is the 
 remarkable Pinnacle Mountain, which has baffled all at- 
 
 Fag€ Twenty-three 
 
tempts to climb it, separated by the Sentinel Pass from 
 Mount Temple, now showing a remarkable resemblance to 
 Mount Stephen at Field. 
 
 Excursions in upper part of Paradise Valley. — There are 
 three excursions to be made from this part of the valley, one 
 at least being recommended as an interesting enlargement 
 of the usual visit. Taking them up in order of their advis- 
 ability, they are: 
 
 1. To Giant Steps Falls, a very beautiful trip, walking 
 only rough in places, and requiring only half an hour more 
 than to return by the trail as the latter is taken up at union 
 of the two streams, near footbridge. 
 
 2. To summit of Wastach Pass, a mountain pass of aver- 
 age roughness, giving a fine view into upper part of Valley 
 of the Ten Peaks, the climb requiring one hour to summit 
 and considerably less to return. This trip is not for the 
 totally inexperienced climber. 
 
 3. To lower part of Sentinel Pass, with view of Pinnacles; 
 a rough trip through woods and rock slides ; very interesting 
 for a strong walker, requiring from 1 to 2 hours, according 
 to extent of trip taken. 
 
 ^'^ Giant Steps Falls, a beautiful cascade or succession of 
 falls, remarkable for the peculiar formation of the rocks, 
 though of no great height or grandeur, is in many respects 
 unsurpassed for its size. They may be reached as follows: 
 From the trail end near the moraine (if horses are taken, 
 they should be sent down — 1% miles — to footbridge at junc- 
 tion of the two streams) , near some table-like rocks covered 
 with heaths and trees, or from any part of the upper valley, 
 proceed northwestwards, crossing the low ridge and descend- 
 ing to the fiats at base of the Mitre. Some large trees, ap- 
 parently broken off by a strong wind made by a snow-slide 
 from Mount Lefroy, are first passed. The meadows are 
 crossed, or rather skirted on the right, and the stream fol- 
 lowed as it changes from a sluggish, meandering brook, 
 hemmed in by clay banks, to a rapid torrent, flowing over a 
 bed of solid rock. On the right there is a most attractive 
 open grove, with banks of heaths edging the almost level 
 
 Page Twenty-four 
 
GIANT STEPS FALLS 
 
stone pavement. The water glides for one-eighth mile in 
 sparkling ripples over the stone floor, ever falling against 
 the left bank, and then forced back again by projecting 
 points of rock. The peculiarly hard and homogeneous rock is 
 polished by former glacial action, the striations and grooves 
 of which are clearly apparent on every side. In the after- 
 noon sun, on a bright day, the gliding waters seem like a 
 stream of molten silver. Suddenly the torrent commences 
 a succession of leaps and falls over immense rectangular 
 blocks of stone, and a succession of truly remarkable views 
 are to be obtained from the banks as the water descends these 
 giant steps of solid rock. The falls are at their best on hot 
 days and in afternoons when the glaciers are melting most 
 rapidly. A swampy meadow, swept clean of trees by a snow- 
 slide, is crossed and the stream followed (one-half mile) to 
 junction of streams, where the trail is found. 
 
 "^Wastach Pass (from Indian word meaning "beautiful" — 
 8,338 feet) may be reached in one hour from upper part of 
 valley. Lying south of Eiffel Peak, this pass gives an excel- 
 lent view into the upper Valley of the Ten Peaks, and is a 
 popular route to same. Cross the upper meadows by keeping 
 near or on the forest-covered slopes of the moraine of the 
 Horseshoe Glacier. Follow the last large stream on the south 
 side of valley a short distance, then cross same and ascend 
 any of the numerous gulches towards the pass. The country 
 is open and attractive, beautified by flower-lined vales, and 
 many small streams descend the horizontal ledges, making 
 the clift's drip and glisten in the sunlight. As the lower part 
 of the pass is approached the vegetation ceases, and the ascent 
 is made over broken stones and rock-slides. " The last part 
 of ascent, somewhat steep, should be made on left side of the 
 pass, where goat trails facilitate the climbing. "^The view 
 into the Valley of the Ten Peaks, including Mount Delta- 
 form and four other peaks of the "VVenkchemna Range, is 
 one of the wildest and most desolate in the mountains. 
 
 * The Pinnacles or rock towers on north side of Pinnacle 
 Mountain may be well seen from the lower part of the Sen- 
 tinel Pass, lying between Pinnacle Mountain and Mount 
 
 Page Twenty-five 
 
Temple. Though this kind of formation is common in the 
 Rockies, no other similar towers have been discovered that 
 surpass these in height and symmetry in any accessible part 
 of the mountains. The entire mountain is more or less 
 eroded into sharp ridges, steep precipices, and lofty pin- 
 nacles. The largest rock tower is conspicuous from many 
 parts of the valley, and is roughly estimated to be 300 feet 
 high. 
 
 (a) Easiest route is to cross stream on south side of val- 
 ley, and, ascending a thickly forested slope, skirt a pile of 
 massive rocks (bear-den moraines), at the base of Pinnacle 
 Mountain till the open, grassy vale is reached at base of the 
 Sentinel Pass. From an altitude of 7,500 feet, where the 
 vegetation ceases to grow, there is a good view of the pin- 
 nacles. Experienced mountaineers can ascend the slope to 
 ridge, above the conspicuous rock-towers, somewhat to right. 
 From base of this tower (8,200 feet) a very fine view is ob- 
 tained, but caution is necessary, as even the largest stones are 
 unstable and treacherous. 
 
 (b) An alternative route is by ascending slopes above 
 snow patch on west base of Pinnacle Mountain. This leads 
 to ridge (8,500 feet), whence a fine view of the pinnacles is 
 obtained from above. On account of loose stones, experienced 
 climbers only should make this ascent. 
 
 * Sentinel Pass, so called from the pinnacles, resembling 
 sentinels, on Pinnacle Mountain, and very appropriate also 
 from a small tower on the pass itself, which has a remarkable 
 resemblance to a sentinel on guard, may be reached from 
 Paradise Valley without much difficulty. From the summit 
 (8,55^6 feet) there is * an excellent view of Mount Fay and 
 the lower part of the Wenkchemna Range. The view into 
 Paradise Valley is wild and awe-inspiring. 
 
 At almost equidistant points on the circumference of a 
 circle about three miles in diameter, the center being the 
 Horseshoe Glacier in Paradise Valley, there are five passes: 
 the Mitre (8,500 feet), Wastach (8,338 feet), Wenkchemna 
 (8,521 feet), Opabin (8,450 feet), and Abbot (9,588 feet), 
 connecting five different valleys. These passes, either singly 
 
 Page Twenty-six 
 
NORTH SLOPE OF PINNACLE MOUNTAIN 
 
or in various combinations, may be used as routes for a con- 
 siderable number of very interesting excursions. Camps, sta- 
 tioned in one or more of the several valleys, are generally 
 necessary if more than one of these passes is crossed in a 
 single day. 
 
 Lake Annette (named for wife of W. G. Astley, first man- 
 ager of the chalet) , a small, clear lake at the base of Mount 
 Temple, may be reached from the lower part of Paradise 
 Valley. The branch trail to this lake is hard to locate, but 
 may be discovered as follows : It is three-fourths of an hour's 
 walk from junction of Paradise Valley trail with main trail, 
 or half an hour's walk below Alpine Club camp grounds. 
 The trail commences in an open slide, exactly opposite the 
 north sky-line of Mount Temple cliffs, and this slide may be 
 identified as the only one in the valley, which is covered by a 
 uniform growth of young evergreens about 25 feet high, with 
 virgin forest on either side. The trail commences in south 
 corner of this slide, and, once the woods are entered, is fol- 
 lowed with ease. The stream is crossed by a log bridge, from 
 which the lake (250 feet above) is reached in eight min- 
 utes. A recent snow-slide has thrown down many trees near 
 the lake. Good view of cliffs of Mount Temple. 
 
 * Mount Temple (11,626 feet, named for Sir Richard 
 Temple by Dr. Dawson) may be climbed conveniently from 
 Paradise Valley by the Sentinel Pass. The climb, which is 
 long and arduous, presents no mountaineering difficulties. 
 From pass a route is followed somewhat to right of the arete, 
 which comes down to the pass. At about 11,000 feet the 
 shoulder should be turned on the left and the south slope 
 reached, whence the top is easily attained. If unaccompa- 
 nied by guides (not advisable), the tops of couloirs and other 
 significant points should be marked by piles of stones, as the 
 route in descent may otherwise be entirely lost. *View from 
 the summit is magnificent on a clear day, including the most 
 easterly ranges of the Rockies to the Selkirks, and from the 
 high peaks near the Athabasca Pass southward to Mount 
 Assiniboine and the Kananaskis Pass. 
 
 Page Twenty-seven 
 
* Mount Aberdeen (10,340 feet, named for Lord Aber- 
 deen) may be easily ascended from upper part of Paradise 
 Valley. The ascent is monotonous and tiring, over scree 
 slopes and rock-slides throughout. From its central location 
 the view is remarkably fine, especially of Mounts Victo- 
 ria, Lefroy, Hungabee, and the peaks of the Wenkchemna 
 Range. A cap of snow and glacier descends the north slope, 
 and there is at times a pool of sapphire-blue water near the 
 actual summit. 
 
 Page Twenty-eight 
 
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PART III. 
 
 VALLEY OF THE TEN PEAKS, MORAINE LAKE, AND 
 CONSOLATION VALLEY. 
 
 The Valley of the Ten Peaks, seven miles long, formerly 
 called the Wenkchemna Valley, from the Indian word mean- 
 ing "ten," is the second valley east of Lake Louise. Entering 
 the Bow Valley at about 5,700 feet, in a flat and swampy 
 tract, the grade is slight as far as Moraine Lake, which is the 
 central point in location and interest, and then the valley 
 floor rises rapidly and continuously up to its end in the high 
 and barren Wenkchemna Pass (8,521 feet). Hemmed in 
 by the very rugged Wenkchemna Range to the south, and 
 Mounts Temple, Pinnacle, and Eiffel on the north, it is the 
 wildest and, in many respects, the grandest of the five val- 
 leys. A short but beautiful branch valley enters from the 
 south near Moraine Lake, and with its two equisite lakes, a 
 fine glacier, and Alpine peaks, is well worthy of a visit. The 
 upper, barren part of the Valley of the Ten Peaks was dis- 
 covered first, and from its forbidding nature was called Deso- 
 lation Valley until the remarkable beauty of the lower part 
 became known, whereupon the name was changed. The 
 peaceful charm of the south branch suggested, in contrast, 
 the name Consolation Valley before the latter change was 
 
 made. 
 
 For those who have only one day for this excursion, the 
 following plan is recommended: From chalet to Moraine 
 Lake (8 miles— 2% hours) on foot or horseback; luncheon 
 at the lake, and either a short walk down the lake shore or a 
 visit to Consolation Valley (35 minutes going; 1 hour round 
 trip). An early start (8 to 9 o'clock) should be made, so 
 as to take advantage of the cool part of the day and have 
 plenty of time to enjoy the scenery upon arrival. Lunch- 
 eons and horses should be arranged for the night before. It 
 
 Page Twenty-nine 
 
should be remembered that it is much less tiring, both for the 
 saddle-horses and their riders, if all level parts of the trail 
 are availed of to make good time, as otherwise the trip will 
 be prolonged to three hours or more. 
 
 The trail starts in near east end of chalet, and, crossing 
 outlet stream by a corduroy bridge, ascends rapidly till (6 
 minutes) the trail divides, the left-hand branch being fol- 
 lowed. (For details of trail, see page 21.) The turbulent 
 Paradise stream is crossed by a log bridge (3 miles — 1 hour) . 
 The trail now commences to ascend rather steeply, with short 
 stretches of level grade. A small, clear stream, descending 
 from a lake on the north side of Mount Temple, is passed in 
 a deep ravine (1% hours). Ascending constantly through 
 a sparse growth of larches and pines, the trail reaches the top 
 of a ridge (1% hours — 6,650 feet altitude). There is now a 
 short streteh amongst morainic ridges which form the clear- 
 cut entrance to the valley, the trail turns to the right, begins 
 to descend, and there is unfolded, quite suddenly — 
 
 **A magnificent view of the entire lower Valley of the 
 Ten Peaks, with Moraine Lake in the distance. The trail is 
 high above the valley, in which the broad and sluggish 
 stream is seen far below. The blue-green Moraine Lake, three 
 miles distant, looks deceptively near, and beyond it the 
 Wenkchemna Range and Consolation Valley are seen in a 
 most impressive panorama. The trail, narrow and rocky, 
 gradually slopes downward the entire distance to Moraine 
 Lake, the interest being maintained throughout. The tim- 
 ber in this part of the valley was unfortunately burned in 
 1904, but a profusion of wild flowers, fireweed, painted cup, 
 yarrow, and arnicas makes this place unrivaled for color in 
 any part of the mountains from June to September. One 
 slope is entirely covered with the cream-colored blossoms of 
 the rather rare and interesting "erioganum." The view into 
 Consolation Valley improves, and, at one mile from Moraine 
 Lake, there is an excellent and striking view of the Tower 
 of Babel and the perpendicular cliffs of Mount Babel, with 
 its gendarmes and rock towers. The trail enters the green 
 forest one-fourth mile from the lake, and descending, reaches 
 the camping ground at north end of the lake. 
 
 Page Thirty 
 
MORAINE LAKE 
 
Alternative route is by the new carriage road, completed 
 nearly to valley entrance in summer of 1908. Inquiry 
 should be made at chalet as to possibility of using road as 
 far as made, and then by trail the last three miles. 
 
 ^^Moraine Lake (6,190 feet), a most beautiful sheet of 
 water, named from the ancient moraine which forms the 
 lake, is slightly over a mile in length, intensely blue or blue 
 green in color, very clear, and fed by cold streams and 
 underground springs, which may be seen bubbling up in 
 many places under the water. The lake abounds in brook 
 trout from 1 to 2 pounds in weight, but has been over-fished 
 in late years. The lake is enclosed on the south side by the 
 imposing cliffs of the Tower of Babel, Mount Babel, Mount 
 Fay, and several ' others of the Wenkchemna Range. The 
 west shore is a slope of green timber, in which may be seen 
 still standing the tall spars of dead timber, relics of a pre- 
 historic forest fire, which apparently visited this valley about 
 75 years ago. The early morning reflections, which rarely 
 last after 9 o'clock, are marvelous. The best view of the lake, 
 which the visitor should not fail to see, is from the top of the 
 moraine. Cross outlet stream 100 yards below old log- jam, 
 where there is a footbridge. Ascendiag trail a few yards, 
 turn to right and climb slope where it is easily accessible. 
 This moraine, 80 feet above the lake, gives a magnificent 
 view, far more impressive than from below, and when the 
 lake is calm the impression is of looking into a sapphire bowl 
 deep-set among rugged mountains. 
 
 ^Another view of the lake, quite different in character, is 
 obtained by walking 10 minutes along trail which skirts the 
 north shore of the lake. The first part is somewhat swampy, 
 but in five minutes a small stream is crossed, and from here 
 on the trail is dry and excellent, through a beautiful grove 
 of young trees, for one-fourth mile, till another stream is 
 reached and a gravel flat covered with willows. This is an 
 excellent place to take luncheon. The lake here is broader, 
 and through a deep gorge southwards the sharp, snowy crest 
 of Mount Fay, unseen at other end of lake, looms grandly. 
 From the vertical precipices on either side, crowned with 
 
 Page Thirty-one 
 
walls of ice, waterfalls descend in slender silvery streams, and 
 avalanches fall, on warm days, with some frequency. 
 
 Consolation Valley, a typical Alpine valley of great beauty, 
 may be hurriedly visited in 1 to 1% hours from Moraine 
 Lake. The trail crosses the outlet stream about 100 yards 
 below the lake, and, winding through the ridges of the 
 moraine, crosses the rock slides beyond and commences to 
 ascend the forested lower slopes of the Tower of Babel. After 
 traversing the green forest for a short distance the noise of 
 rushing water is heard, and the trail, bordered by wild 
 flowers, approaches the roaring torrent that descends from 
 Consolation Valley. Bending to the right, the stream is soon 
 left behind as the trail, having gained the level of the valley 
 opening, passes through a thin growth of young trees. On 
 the right is the Tower of Babel, and glimpses of the snowy 
 peaks at the valley end are enjoyed through the scattered 
 spruces. The trail enters a strip of heavy forest and reaches 
 an open meadow. The visitor should here turn to the left, 
 to the banks of the broad, sluggish stream, where (35 min- 
 utes) there is an — 
 
 **Excellent vieiu of Consolation Valley, the forests and 
 mountains being reflected in the quiet water. The whole 
 scene is dominated by Mount Bident (10,109 feet), a ser- 
 rated, glacier-clad peak of remarkable beauty. This view 
 combines every element of grandeur and beauty character- 
 istic of the Canadian Rockies — vertical cliffs and glaciers, 
 forests, meadows, and a water surface, the reflections in which 
 give an added interest to the surroundings. 
 
 *The Consolation lakes, about one-half mile up the valley, 
 may be reached by the trail which follows the west side of 
 stream. The first lake is more than half a mile long, very 
 deep and clear, and enclosed by rock-slides and forests. In 
 this lake, as in the stream below, there is excellent fly fishing 
 for brook trout averaging about one pound or less. At one 
 point on the west shore a bank of perpetual snow may be 
 used as a landing place for the fish, making an exceptionally 
 rare combination. Unfortunately, these lakes are now being 
 excessively fished by irresponsible parties, whose selfish in- 
 terests will result in the termination of legitimate sport 
 
 Page Thirty-two 
 
within a short time unless stringent game laws are enforced. 
 Trail crosses and is now on east bank of lake. 
 
 Separated about 75 yards by a rock-slide through which 
 the water percolates, the upper lake is considerably smaller 
 and rests against the snout of a glacier. By ascendiag the 
 valley for a short distance and climbing the moraine, this 
 glacier may be easily reached and traversed safely for a con- 
 siderable distance. The glacier is unusually interesting, as 
 the medial moraines are clearly marked, and there are sev- 
 eral remarkable surface lakelets and other features deserving 
 attention. 
 
 The Tower of Babel (7,580 feet) may be ascended by way 
 of the steep and grassy slopes near middle of the valley. In 
 order to avoid heavy scrub and timber, the route should be 
 studied out in detail before commencing the ascent. The 
 top of the Tower of Babel is unusually flat, though the hori- 
 zontal ledges have been split into deep and rather ominous- 
 looking cracks by ages of exposure. *The view, especially of 
 Moraine Lake, 1,400 feet below, is interesting and unusual. 
 By following the ridge southwards, climbers of a little expe- 
 rience may easily reach a point several hundred feet higher 
 and get a good view of the towers and gendarmes on the east 
 face of Mount Babel. The visitor is cautioned not to attempt 
 the descent to Moraine Lake over the scree slopes on the west 
 side of the Tower of Babel, as this is excessively dangerous on 
 account of frequent rock-falls from the rapidly disintegrating 
 gorges above. 
 
 The pass at end of Consolation Valley (8,300 feet) may 
 be used by fair climbers as a route to the very beautiful and 
 interesting region round and near Boom Lake, where there 
 is excellent fishing. For a prolonged sojourn, a camping 
 outfit should be sent round by way of the Vermilion Pass. 
 
 The WenkcheTnna Lake and upper Valley of the Ten 
 Peaks may be reached over a fair trail from Moraine Lake 
 in 1% to 2 hours. The trail skirts the north shore of the 
 lake, crossing a stream from Larch Valley about half way 
 down the lake, and then pursuing a rough but picturesque 
 route along the forest-lined and rock-ledged banks to near 
 end of lake (20 minutes), where the inlet stream bursts from 
 
 Page Thirty-three 
 
its banks of willows and enters the lake. This stream is 
 remarkable as being one of the few, if not the only, clear 
 glacial stream in the mountains. The trail ascends through 
 light timber and open swampy meadows in successive sharp 
 pitches, about 2% miles, always to the right of and above 
 the Wenkchemna Glacier, the moraines of which may be 
 seen occasionally through the trees. At this point (50 min- 
 utes from lake end) the forest opens out, and for nearly a 
 mile the trail traverses a beautiful Alpine park, which, in 
 late July and August, is a veritable garden of wild flowers 
 unsurpassed in the mountains. Through open stretches the 
 eye wanders over extensive fields of lilac-colored asters of 
 vigorous growth, scarlet painted cups, white valerian, and 
 yellow arnicas. Through the trees the cliffs and serrated 
 peaks of the Wenkchemna Range rise superbly. Skirting 
 the base of a snow-slide, covered with bent spruce-scrub and 
 broken stones, the trail crosses a grove of larch trees, gradu- 
 ally ascending to a high gulch or pass with patches of per- 
 petual snow (where horses can proceed no farther), then 
 descends about 100 feet to the small but remarkable — 
 
 **Wenkche7nna Lake (about 7,500 feet), a mountain tarn 
 entirely surrounded by broken masses of rock of great size. 
 In this wild setting, only relieved on the north by a green 
 slope and a few trees, the little lake nestles and peacefully 
 reflects the stupendous mountains that surround it. The ice- 
 cold and green water, clear as crystal, comes from melting 
 snowbanks, which in several places border the lake shore all 
 summer. The entire Wenkchemna Range, from Mount Fay 
 to the Wenkchemna Pass, including the gigantic wedge- 
 shaped Mount Deltaform, with its glacial couloir, is seen to 
 the east and south. Apparently near, but about 3 miles dis- 
 tant, is the Wenkchemna Pass, leading over into Prospectors 
 Valley. The visitor is advised to follow north shore, crossing 
 the rocks by which a smaller lake is cut off on the right, and 
 then cross the immense masses of rock till the entire range 
 can be seen reflected in the water. To the west is the great 
 rock peak of Mount Himgabee, seen through a gap, and to 
 the right, forming part of the valley boundary, are two un- 
 named peaks, the most distant of which, with flat summit 
 
 Page Thirty-four 
 
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and deeply eroded gullies, resembles an ancient ruin. Both 
 this and the unnamed peak to the right are marvels of light 
 and shade in the afternoon sun. Somewhat more to the right 
 is the "Wastach Pass, an easy route into Paradise Valley, and 
 to the north Eiffel Peak, here showing to great advantage, 
 its vast slopes being crowned by a rounded mass of nearly 
 vertical cliffs rent into several deep-cut needles. The lake, 
 while not much more than one-fourth mile in diameter, is 
 so surrounded by rough rocks that it requires nearly an hour 
 to walk around it. The visitor can ascend the valley through 
 open, treeless moors and over snow patches of increasing size 
 to summit of Wenkchemna Pass (1 hour — 8,521 feet). This 
 is part of the continental watershed, the valley to the west 
 (Prospectors Valley) lying in British Columbia, and the 
 water draining into the Pacific by the Vermilion River. 
 Across the valley there is a long rock wall, culminating in 
 the sharp-peaked Mount Biddle on the right. In the valley, 
 nearly 1,000 feet below, a remarkable limestone tower is 
 clearly seen. This pass may be used as a route to the glacier- 
 bearing Opabin Pass, which leads to Lake O'Hara, as well 
 as the ascent of Mounts Hungabee and Deltaform. 
 
 The Wenkchemna Glacier, which occupies the southern 
 part of this valley, lying against the foot of several of the Ten 
 Peaks, has many remarkable features. Being of the pied- 
 mont type, its breadth, 3 miles, is proportionally great for 
 its length, which is only from one-half to one mile. A large 
 part of its surface is completely buried in morainic debris, 
 which serves as a protecting cover to the inert and sluggish 
 mass of ice beneath. The clear and limpid glacial stream 
 descending into Moraine Lake proves how little eroding ac- 
 tion is going on under this extraordinary glacier. About 
 2% miles above Moraine Lake the glacier is apparently ad- 
 vancing, and the forest is being overridden and buried in 
 the frontal moraines. (For fuller details, see "Glaciers of 
 the Canadian Rockies and Selkirks," by Dr. WiUiam Hittell 
 Sherzer.) 
 
 Larch Valley and Sentinel Pass. — Larch Valley is a short 
 but beautiful upland vale between the south slopes of Mount 
 Temple and a long ridge which sweeps down in a graceful 
 
 Page Thirty-five 
 
curve from the base of Eiffel Peak. It heads in the Sentinel 
 Pass and a rocky amphitheater between Mount Pinnacle and 
 Eiffel Peak. It contains three small lakes and commands 
 fine views of the rugged mountains to the south, and is a 
 beautiful place in itself, though involving a hard climb to 
 reach. 
 
 From Moraine Lake the ascent (800 feet) is most con- 
 veniently made by following the old fire-guard, which is 
 picked up about one-half mile from the lake on trail from 
 chalet. From the larch groves in the upper Valley of the 
 Ten Peaks the open ridge to the north is easily ascended, the 
 climb here being, of course, much less than from Moraine 
 Lake. 
 
 From the nearly barren ridges above the highest lake the 
 route by which Mount Temple is climbed is easily made out. 
 Note a natural bridge in cliffs on side of Mount Temple, 
 about 3,000 feet above the valley. From lake the ascent of 
 Sentinel Pass is easily made in 30 to 40 minutes. The steep 
 slopes should be climbed somewhat to right on Mount Tem- 
 ple side, avoiding the apparently easier cliffs to the left. 
 
 Eiffel Peak and the mountain west of the Wastach Pass 
 may be ascended without difficulty and without g-uides from 
 camps in upper part of the Valley of the Ten Peaks. 
 
 Peak northeast of Mount Temple may be easily ascended 
 from the ridge where the trail, entering the Valley of the 
 Ten Peaks, makes a sharp turn to the right and Moraine 
 Lake is first seen. Near the summit the east arete is made 
 of a remarkable and rather xm usual slate formation. On and 
 near the summit there is disclosed a very excellent — 
 
 * View of the Wenkchemna Range and Consolation Val- 
 ley and a broad outlook over the Bow and Pipestone Valleys. 
 
 About 800 feet below, nestling in a secluded rocky vale, 
 may be seen a blue lake about one-third of a mile long, with 
 its end against the cliffs of Mount Temple. The descent 
 may be varied by keeping somewhat more to the west and 
 coming down on a small pool at base of east cliffs of Mount 
 Temple, where a high waterfall descends upon a bank of 
 snow. 
 
 Page Thirty-six 
 
From high bench, a mile farther south on lower slopes of 
 Mount Temple (reached by leaving Moraine Lake trail one 
 mile north of lake and climbing the steep but open grassy 
 slopes) , a magnificent view of Consolation Valley, the Tower 
 of Babel^ and Mount Babel may be enjoyed. From this 
 point the view is unsurpassed for a certain wild and imposing 
 grandeur. Above the fire-swept zone there are scree slopes 
 rising several hundred feet higher to the vertical cliffs of 
 Mount Temple, where the ambitious climber may obtain 
 more extensive and possibly more impressive views. 
 
 The circuit of Moraine Lake is a trip recommended to 
 those camping at or near the lake. Follow trail to end of 
 lake and cross the inlet stream about one-fourth of a mile 
 above its mouth. Traverse woods in direction of Mount Fay 
 to the sharp-pointed end of lake, where a small, muddy 
 stream enters. Cross the flats and skirt shore of lake north- 
 wards, through thick scrub and timber (trying and diffi- 
 cult), climbing to base of cliffs about 200 feet above. By 
 following the now easy route along the ledges, inspiring and 
 constantly varied views of cliff and lake scenery may be en- 
 joyed. In one place there is a small cave where the roof 
 overhangs a considerable distance. The ledge leads out to 
 slides, the first of which should be crossed rapidly for fear 
 of falling stones, the others being safe. 
 
 None of the peaks of the Wenkchemna Range should be 
 attempted without Swiss guides and a well-prepared camp- 
 ing outfit. The guides stationed at the chalet will give all 
 necessary information to those planning to climb any of 
 these difficult but interesting Alpine peaks. Mount Delta- 
 form is the most dangerous of this group, and has only been 
 climbed once. Mount Hungabee, which, with Deltaform, 
 are attacked by way of the Wenkchemna Pass, is similar in 
 difficulty. These peaks, ranking with the most difficult of 
 European mountains, should be attempted only by expert 
 climbers, with a well-organized party of Swiss guides and 
 under favorable weather conditions. 
 
 To Moraine Lake, Wenkchemna Lake, and over the Was- 
 tach Pass, thence by Paradise Valley to chalet (about 25 
 
 Page Thirty-seven 
 
miles) is a magnificent walk, with no climbing difficulties, 
 but is only recommended to strong walkers, as being some- 
 what too long for the average ability. This trip might be 
 made easier by taking saddle horses as far as Moraine Lake. 
 It is a combination of several excursions described elsewhere, 
 and gives a great variety of highly interesting scenery. 
 
 Page Thirty-eight 
 
LAKE O'HARA AND MOUNT LEFROY 
 
PART IV. 
 
 LAKE O'HARA REGION. 
 
 Lake O'Hara and the upper part of Cataract Brook Valley 
 are unexcelled by any part of the mountains in variety and 
 beauty of scenery. Though somewhat less rugged than the 
 Valley of the Ten Peaks, and less grand than Paradise Val- 
 ley or Lake Louise, this region appeals more strongly to the 
 artist and the camper. Meadows, forests, and lakes are here 
 combined in pleasing variety in a broad valley surrounded 
 by mountains of strong and impressive outlines. It is pos- 
 sible to visit Lake O'Hara hurriedly in one day, but the vis- 
 itor is strongly advised to spend at least one night in camp, 
 so as to do at least partial justice to this very interesting 
 region. 
 
 The lake may be visited most conveniently by taking the 
 train to Hector station, where horses and guides, previously 
 arranged for, should be met. Hector may also be reached 
 by direct trail from the chalet (on foot or horseback) in 
 three hours. This trail commences north of the chalet, and, 
 following the original road to Laggan a short way, branches 
 off to the left and skirts the base of Mount Saint Piran and 
 Popes Peak, coming out east of Sink Lake, and then follow- 
 ing the railroad track to Hector. 
 
 From Hector (5,190 feet) the trail ascends the east bank 
 of Cataract Brook, a roaring torrent of clear water which 
 enters Wapta Lake a few yards below. The scenery is bar- 
 ren and desolate, but the attention is soon attracted by the 
 canyon-like walls of the torrential stream. In a short quar- 
 ter hour, after a steady ascent of 400 feet, the top of the ridge 
 is reached, and the trail now keeps a nearly level grade for 
 the next three miles. The valley is entered through burnt 
 timber and muskegs, and the two Narao Lakes and the slug- 
 gish stream are seen on the right (30 minutes). A grassy 
 
 Page Thirty-nine 
 
meadow is reached (50 minutes), whence may be seen a part 
 of Mount Victoria, glacier-crowned, on the left, the Wi waxy- 
 Peaks, Mount Schaffer, and Mount Odaray, far up the val- 
 ley, with Cathedral Mountain on the right. Shortly after 
 this a gravel wash is crossed, where the trail must be followed 
 with care, and on the other side of this the burnt timber is 
 left behind (one hour) and the green timber entered. The 
 scenery now rapidly improves, and, in fact, is an ascending 
 climax all the way to Lake O'Hara. The trail crosses the 
 clear, rushing stream, which affords a succession of delight- 
 ful views for several miles, by a bridge (one hour and fifty 
 minutes; 6,150 feet), and continues on west side of stream. 
 The ascent is rapid up to some meadows near the base of the 
 Wiwaxy Peaks, and at length (three hours) the first glimpse 
 of the small lake near outlet of Lake O'Hara is caught, and 
 in fi^e minutes more, after passing through a grove of 
 spruces, the richly colored waters of Lake O'Hara appear 
 directly ahead. 
 
 ^"^ Lake O'Hara (6,664 feet), claimed by some to be th& 
 most beautiful lake in the world of its size, is an emerald- 
 green sheet of water nearly a mile long, almost completely 
 enclosed by forest-clad mountains. It was named after Col. 
 R. O'Hara, one of the early visitors to this region. The stu- 
 pendous cliffs of Mount Victoria and Mount Lefroy rise 
 above it to the north and east, and the sharp peaks of Mounts 
 Yukness, Hungabee, and Biddle make the views to the south 
 even more interesting, while from the farther shores the 
 circle is completed by Mounts Schaffer, Odaray, Stephen, 
 Cathedral, and the Wiwaxy Peaks, making the total of high 
 and interesting peaks visible from this small lake far greater 
 than from most others of much larger size. The first oppor- 
 tunity should be taken to walk along the south shore (on 
 the right) nearly or quite to the end of the lake (30 min- 
 utes round trip). A faint game trail indicates the way, 
 which is comparatively easy. The visitor should also cross 
 the outlet stream (felled trees) and walk a few hundred 
 yards along the north shore, in order to get an excellent 
 view of the Opabin Pass, with Mounts Hungabee and Biddle 
 on either side. 
 
 Page Forty 
 
LAKE O'HARA AND OPABIN PASS 
 
The following three excursions will give the best idea of 
 the surrounding region: 
 
 1. To top of clijfs below Opabin Pass, by way of meadows 
 and upper lakes, returning by gulch on east side to Lake 
 O'Hara (11/2 hours). 
 
 2. To Lake Oesa by north shore, returning by south shore 
 (2% hours). 
 
 3. To Lake McArthur (3 miles; 2^4 hours round trip). 
 1. The lower part of the Opabin Pass is well worthy of a 
 
 visit, and the following route is the most interesting: Take 
 the main trail, which turns west a few yards from the lake, 
 and which, ascending a low ridge, leads down to a meadow 
 (4 minutes) completely surrounded by forest. This beau- 
 tiful place, whence the views of the mountains are most in- 
 teresting, w^as Colonel O'Hara's favorite camping ground. 
 The trail turns to the right, following a mossy stream, but 
 the visitor will see an open meadow to the southeast in the 
 direction of the Opabin Pass, following which and then cross- 
 ing a narrow bit of forest he will soon arrive on the shore of 
 a long, narrow lake (12 minutes) . This sheet of water, with 
 its rocky forest-lined shores, while not comparable to Lake 
 O'Hara, would in any other situation command unbounded 
 admiration. The walking (along west shore) amongst the 
 rocks and fallen trees is trying, but the end is reached in a 
 short one-fourth hour. From this end of lake, where a 
 rock-slide from Mount Schaffer is crossed, an easy rout€ is 
 now observed up the grassy slopes, on right of the rounded 
 dome of rock directly ahead. The top of bench (7,240 feet) 
 is reached after 20 minutes of climbing. An extensive high 
 valley, with ridges and ledges of shaly rocks, is now dis- 
 closed, leading up to the snow-covered base of the Opabin 
 (Indian word meaning "rocky") Pass. Some little time can 
 be pleasantly spent wandering around amongst the attrac- 
 tions of this delightful region. The cliff edge also should 
 be approached, whence a very *fine vieto of the Wiwaxy 
 Peaks and the lakes in the valley below may be enjoyed. 
 The descent is made on the east side of the rounded dome, 
 where a steep grass slope, east of a rock-slide and west of the 
 stream, may be found. (Do not go too far to right.) This 
 
 Page Forty-one 
 
stream divides some distance above the lake, and enters by 
 two branches about 150 yards apart, 
 
 2. *Lake Oesa may be visited (a very interesting excur- 
 sion), by following the north shore of the lake, as a varia- 
 tion of route, to near its end, where the steep shores and the 
 open slopes above, suggest ascending so as to come out above 
 the slides of immense rocks. A small, green lakelet (6,990 
 feet), without apparent outlet, which, however, supplies the 
 waterfall at end of Lake O'Hara, is reached (50 minutes). 
 Above this, the stream becomes a boisterous torrent, hemmed 
 in by rock-slides and wild gorges. The stream is crossed 
 and followed closely on west bank, the scenery being most 
 interesting and constantly varied. Leaving the stream for a 
 short time, a scramble is made up an interesting rock-slide 
 to right of cliffs, which appear to block the way. Above 
 these (7,350 feet), an interesting vale of ledges is entered 
 and easily ascended, passing a green pool on the left (1^ 
 hours). The vegetation now almost totally disappears, the 
 valley assumes a wild and desolate aspect, and in a short time 
 the barren shores of Oesa (Indian word meaning "ice") 
 Lake is reached (7,398 feet — 1% hours). This region is 
 strongly marked by the striations and grooves of former 
 glacial action. From this point the route to Abbot Pass may 
 be clearly seen leading up to a deep cleft between Mounts 
 Lefroy and Victoria. The return should be varied by de- 
 scending the slopes luest of the waterfall at Lake O'Hara and 
 following the west shore of same. 
 
 3. *Lake McArthur is a remarkable lake, easily reached 
 from Lake O'Hara in one hour. The trail near lake which 
 leads to Colonel O'Hara's meadow should be followed. This 
 is an old Indian trail, a relic of prehistoric days, when the 
 Kootenay Indians used it as a route to reach and trade with 
 the various tribes on the plains. It is hard to follow through 
 the meadow, but with care it will be seen to lead west to a 
 shallow gulch, and is well marked in the forest. Ascending 
 steep pitches, the top of first bench is reached (20 minutes), 
 and the first view of the pyramidal Mount Owen is seen 
 to the west. The trail, becoming faint as it crosses open 
 meadows, passes a small lake on the left. Cross these 
 
 Page Forty-two 
 
LAKE McARTHUR AND MOUNT BIDDLE 
 
meadows towards a rocky gulch somewhat to the right, where 
 there is a small stream. The trail is on the south or left of 
 this. The summit of pass (7,110 feet) is reached (35 min- 
 utes) and the valley opening, where Lake Mc Arthur is situ- 
 ated, may be seen to the south between Mount Schaffer and 
 Park Mountain, about three-fourths mile ahead. (Just be- 
 fore reaching summit of pass there is a small meadow filled 
 with great rocks. One particularly large boulder, with strata 
 tilted up to the west and a loose slab on east side, should be 
 passed on east side, turning to left.) The slopes are de- 
 scended, attention being given to the route taken, but keep- 
 ing in general somewhat to the left till the base of gulch is 
 reached, where, ascending by a well-marked goat trail to top 
 of a rocky bench, there is no further difficulty. The visitor 
 should now mark his route by piles of stones on conspicuous 
 points, so as to return by same gulch. Crossing the barren, 
 rolling ridges of this high valley, the sapphire-blue waters 
 of Lake McArthur are soon seen in the distance. 
 
 *Lake McArthur (7,359 feet; named for J. J. McArthur, 
 who discovered it) , one of the largest lakes at such high alti- 
 tude in the mountains, Ues in a short Alpine valley between 
 Mount Schaffer and Park Mountain, and is overhung on the 
 southeast by Mount Biddle (10,876 feet). A large glacier 
 descends from the latter peak and enters the lake. This lake 
 is remarkable for the extreme coldness and clearness of the 
 water and for its wonderful sapphire-blue color, having no 
 trace of the blue-green characteristic of most Rocky Moun- 
 tain lakes. Owing to its high altitude, it is covered with ice 
 most of the year, and even in midsummer floating masses of 
 ice drift over its surface. On the extreme right-hand corner 
 there are some whirlpools where the lake seeks a subter- 
 ranean outlet. Towards the left there are some interesting 
 cliffs and rocks, whence the best view of the lake is obtained. 
 Visitors should carefully examine the surrounding mountain 
 slopes, especially the western slopes of Mount Schaffer, as this 
 is a favorite haunt of the Rocky Mountain goat, and it is 
 more than likely that some of these interesting animals may 
 be seen. 
 
 Page Forty-three 
 
LIST OF INTERESTING BOOKS AND PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 "Among the Selkirk Glaciers." (In Chapter XVII is an 
 interesting account of an early visit to Lake Louise.) W. S. 
 Green. Macmillan & Co., London. 
 
 "Climbs and Exploration in the Canadian Rockies." H. E. 
 M. Stutfield and J. Norman Collie. Longmans, Green & 
 Co., London. 
 
 "The Canadian Alpine Journal." Published annually by 
 the Alpine Club of Canada. 
 
 "In the Heart of the Canadian Rockies." James Outram. 
 The Macmillan Co., New York. 
 
 "The Rockies of Canada." Walter Dwight Wilcox. G. P. 
 Putnam's Sons, New York. 
 
 SPECIAL SUBJECTS. 
 
 "Alpine Flora of the Canadian Rocky Mountains." Stew- 
 ardson Brown and Mrs. Charles Schaffer. G. P. Putnam's 
 Sons, New York. 
 
 "Mountain Wild Flowers of Canada." Julia W. Hen- 
 shaw. William Briggs, Toronto. 
 
 "Glaciers of the Canadian Rockies and Selkirks." Wil- 
 liam Hittell Sherzer. Published by the Smithsonian Insti- 
 tution. 
 
 Attention is also called to the very interesting "Prelim- 
 inary Report," by Dr. Dawson, and the exceedingly rare 
 "Palliser Papers." A "Report on the Geological Structure of 
 the Rocky Mountains," by R. G. McConnell, is of interest to 
 geologists. Besides Appleton's Canadian Guide Book and 
 Baedeker's Guide to Canada, there have been published in 
 the last few years a great number of articles relating to this 
 and other parts of the Canadian Rockies in the following 
 magazines: Appalachia, the Alpine Journal, the Geograph- 
 ical Journal, the National Geographic Magazine, the Journal 
 of Geology, etc. 
 
 Page Porty-Uve 
 
LIST OF BOOKS RELATING TO THE HISTORY OR EARLY EXPLO- 
 RATION OP THE CANADIAN ROCKIES. 
 
 'The Northwest Passage by Land." Viscount Milton and 
 Dr. Cheadle. 
 
 ''Canada on the Pacific." Charles Horetzky. 
 
 "Voyages." Sir Alexander Mackenzie. 
 
 "Overland Journey Round the World." Sir George 
 Simpson. 
 
 "Saskatchewan and the Rocky Mountains." Earl of 
 Southesk. 
 
 "Ocean to Ocean." Rev. George M. Grant, 
 
 "Adventures on the Columbia River." Ross Cox. 
 
 Canadian Pacific Railway Reports. 
 
 NOTES FOR WALKERS AND CLIMBERS. 
 
 The exhilaration of the mountain air and the entire 
 change of climate have a tendency to make visitors over- 
 estimate their physical powers, especially in the first ex- 
 cursions taken. Travelers of a sedentary life should be 
 extremely careful not to attempt too much, and even those 
 who have hardened their muscles by golf, tennis, and other 
 outdoor sports must gradually accustom the heart and lungs 
 to a rarefied air and an entirely new kind of exercise. By 
 adopting the following ideas the best results will ensue: 
 
 1st. The first few days should be devoted to walks along 
 roads or trails that are comparatively level. If any small 
 ascents are made they should be done leisurely. It is highly 
 important to have a pair of comfortable, thick-soled shoes, 
 well filled with hob-nails or Swiss Alpine nails. A pair of 
 canvas or other leggins and an old suit are advisable. 
 
 2nd. The secret of mountain climbing, thoroughly under- 
 stood by the Swiss guides, is "festina lente" — making haste 
 slowly. This is especially true during the first hour of a 
 day's climb, when the heart is becoming accustomed to the 
 
 Page Forty-six 
 
extra exertion in a rarefied atmosphere. More physical en- 
 ergy may be destroyed by rushing along during the first half 
 hour than in any two or three subsequent hours of the day's 
 work. Remember that the chief object of any excursion is 
 to enjoy the grandeur and beauty unfolded along the way. 
 Nothing so plainly marks the tyro as record-breaking pro- 
 clivities. 
 
 3rd. In all big chmbs the exertion expended in descent is 
 more tiring than in the ascent. The mountaineering diffi- 
 culties also are more serious, as the footholds are less easily 
 seen. Have the moral courage and good judgment to turn 
 back in time to reach camp or hotel before nightfall, 
 
 AN APPEAL EOR THE PRESERVATION" OE NATURAL BEAUTY. 
 
 There is a strong movement on foot both in the United 
 States and in Canada towards the preservation of natural 
 scenery. Those who have had the rare pleasure of being a 
 first visitor to any of these beautiful lakes of the Canadian 
 Rockies and seen nature in her primitive glory may thor- 
 oughly appreciate the destructive effect of the ordinary camp. 
 Trees are ruthlessly cut down or destroyed by camp fires, 
 branches are hacked off for fire-wood or bedding, the bark 
 is blazed from trees and replaced by a multitude of names of 
 those seeking a misguided notoriety, while the green carpet 
 of grass and beautiful Alpine flowers is changed into a waste 
 of empty cans and broken glass. Unfortunately such rude 
 transformations almost invariably occur at the most attrac- 
 tive point of view, making a strong contrast between nature's 
 sublimity and man's heedlessness. 
 
 It would be a most excellent thing if, through the efforts 
 of the officials of the Rocky Mountains Park of Canada, sup- 
 plemented by an aroused public sentiment, working through 
 clubs organized for the purpose, a rational system of camp 
 supervision were decided upon and rules enforced by 
 mounted forest rangers. Every forest-lined lake or stream; 
 every lonely mountain tarn or Alpine meadow — in fact, all 
 places in any part of the world where beauty and grandeur 
 is preeminent over utihty — are a portion of the natural her- 
 
 Page Forty-seven 
 
itage and inalienable rights of all the people. Any one who 
 destroys this beauty and takes away some of the pleasure 
 that belongs to those who come after is, in a sense, a robber 
 and a malefactor, no less than if he should cut down the 
 shade trees and ruin the gardens of a private home. It must 
 be remembered, however, that the effectiveness of this effort 
 to preserve natural beauty depends, in its final working out, 
 upon the individual visitor, who, unfortunately, is often 
 overwhelmed with the limitlessness of the forests and the 
 grandeur of nature and is led, moreover, to admire and over- 
 estimate the apparent knowledge and experience of his 
 guides, little realizing that in many cases these selfsame 
 guides may be spending their first season in the mountains, 
 having little or no appreciation of that beauty which they 
 are so ready to destroy. 
 
 A FEW CAMP DON TS. 
 
 Don't place your camp on the borders of lakes or streams 
 or in any fine scenic viewpoint. 
 
 Don't cut down and mutilate trees. Don't write your 
 name at the expense of the bark and often the life of a noble 
 tree. 
 
 Don't build a camp-fire in mossy ground or heavy brush. 
 
 When breaking camp, don't fail to pour on water until 
 the last spark, deep down in the ground, is extinguished. 
 
 Don't let your camp resemble a rubbish pile. Burn up 
 papers and refuse and hide all empty cans in a deep part of 
 the forest, leaving your camp-ground as near like what you 
 found it as possible. 
 
 Don't be a record-breaker in killing game or fish. Sen- 
 timent has changed in recent years, and many an alleged 
 sportsman degenerates into a "game-hog" when he takes 
 more life than is reasonable or necessary. 
 
 Page Forty-eight 
 
NOTES ON WEATHER. 
 
 A little knowledge of weather conditions will often save 
 valuable days or prevent disastrous results in mountain- 
 climbing. Those who understand the weather in any part 
 of our continent will soon notice the similarity of changes 
 in the Canadian Rockies, affected only in a slight degree by 
 the mountains themselves. 
 
 The cyclonic whirls, from 500 to 1,000 miles in diameter, 
 move in from the Pacific at fairly regular intervals through- 
 out the year. Upon their intensity and rate of motion de- 
 pend the amount of rain or snow that falls and the duration 
 of each storm. The approach of one of these storms is almost 
 invariably indicated at least 24 hours in advance by the 
 feathery cirrus clouds, which first appear on the western 
 horizon and cross the sky rapidly, gradually becoming 
 thicker and forming a hazy veil over part, or all, of the sky. 
 The wind shifts to south or southwest, and cumulus clouds 
 begin to form, moving in the same direction. If the wind 
 is very strong and hot, the storm usually breaks in a series of 
 local thunder-storms, sometimes followed by general rains. 
 If the wind is less strong, or from the east, and the tempera- 
 ture is low, the storm begins in a gentle, steady shower and 
 lasts from two to three days or more. The passage of the 
 center of the storm is marked by a rising barometer, the 
 clouds lifting somewhat, the temperature dropping, while 
 new snow falls upon the mountains or even in the valleys. 
 It often rains or snows, however, many hours after the 
 barometer begins to rise. In general, the more rapid the 
 approach of a storm and the heavier the rainfall, the more 
 rapid is the clearing. West or northwesterly winds are an 
 almost certain indication of clearing. Cold, frosty nights 
 are a sign of continued fair weather. In mid-summer, even 
 during the finest weather, the valleys are often filled with 
 heavy fog in the early morning, and many excursions 
 are missed from apprehension of an approaching storm. 
 Such fogs may be distinguished by the fact that they entirely 
 cover the valley to its lowest parts, while the air is cold and 
 
 Page Porty-nine 
 
69 
 
 66 
 
 60 
 
 50 
 
 74 
 
 57 
 
 65 
 
 51 
 
 53 
 
 43 
 
 55 
 
 44 
 
 46 
 
 39 
 
 41 
 
 31 
 
 42 
 
 32 
 
 78 
 
 56 
 
 there is no actual fall of mist or rain. At about 9 or 10 
 o'clock these fogs begin to rise and melt away in the sun, 
 showing a perfectly clear sky above. 
 
 The following average weekly thermometer records were 
 taken by the author at Lake Louise in the summer of 1894 : 
 
 7-9 A. M. 1-2 P.M. 7-9 p. M. 
 
 July 25-31, inclusive 49 59 51 
 
 August 1-7, inclusive 53 
 
 August 8-15, inclusive 49 
 
 August 16-22, inclusive 56 
 
 August 23-29, inclusive 50 
 
 August 30-September 5, inclusive 42 
 
 September 6-12, inclusive 41 
 
 September 13-19, inclusive 37 
 
 September 20-26, inclusive 31 
 
 September 27-October 3, inclusive 33 
 
 Hottest day, August 19 57 
 
 Coldest day, August 28 35 41 40 
 
 NOTES ON PROVISIONS, ETC., FOR A CAMPING TRIP. 
 
 One of the most difficult things about outfitting a camping 
 trip, whether it lasts a few days or several months, is to know 
 the quantity and quality of the provisions. On a short trip 
 this is relatively unimportant, but for anything over a week 
 or ten days a careful study should be made of the "grub- 
 pile." In general, the camper-out in the Canadian Rockies 
 is exposed to constant low temperatures, except at midday, 
 and, moreover, he is naturally taking an abnormal amount 
 of exercise. For these reasons the heat-producing foods — fat 
 pork, bacon, chocolate, and sweets — and the energy-producing 
 foods, such as beans and bacon, should form a large part of 
 the commissariat. Fresh meats and vegetables being out of 
 the question, a supply of dried fruits (apricots, apples, 
 prunes, and peaches) and desiccated vegetables is absolutely 
 necessary. From my own experience the following table is 
 approximately correct. Weights are given in pounds and 
 decimals. In order to find required quantity, multiply to- 
 gether the number of individuals in the party, the number 
 of days, and the given decimals : 
 
 Page Fifty 
 
Absolute Necessaries on Long Trips. Advisable. 
 
 Bacon 1-00 Cocoa.... 03 
 
 Flour 1(^0 Cornmeal J^ 
 
 Baking powder 05 Eice.... 
 
 c.„i^ ... .05 Hardtack 1" 
 
 Salt. 
 
 .05 
 
 20 
 
 Onions ^0 
 
 Sugar ^" v^.i.<.-o 
 
 rj,g° , 04 Preserves and jam 
 
 Coffee" ...... 08 Pickles. 
 
 ;Dp„ns 20 Sweet chocolate. 
 
 Dried 'fruit! .'.".'!! ! 07 Self-rising flour and syrup. 
 
 On short trips many of these items may be left out and 
 their places taken by fresh bread, canned meats, sardmes, 
 eggs, butter, and potatoes. _ -ex. 
 
 One of the most important items in camp cookmg is tresh 
 bread made with baking powder and locally called "ban- 
 nock " Only about one in ten of all the camp cooks has the 
 faintest conception of making a light and appetizing ban- 
 nock. The following directions will give excellent results: 
 Measure out twenty parts (twenty tablespoonfuls, for in- 
 stance) of flour, one of baking powder, and one-half of one 
 of salt, and mix thoroughly and intimately m a bowl. Make 
 a depression in the flour and add cold water, stn^mg the 
 flour in from the sides till nearly all the flour is mixed and 
 the dough, though light and spongy, is moderately firm. 
 Stir or knead as little as possible. Take two frying pans, 
 well greased with bacon fat or else well sprinkled with dry 
 flour, and make a thin loaf covering entire bottom of pan, 
 from' one-half to three-quarters of an inch thick. Heat over 
 a bright, clear camp fire, so as to cook a bottom crust without 
 burning; then stand the skillet up on chips to keep off the 
 ashes by means of willow branches run through hole m han- 
 dle so that the upper surface is exposed to intense radiation 
 from a clear fire. The loaves should rise and brown rapidly 
 and be turned frequently, so as to be thoroughly cooked m 
 20 minutes. By improvising an oven from an old cracker 
 box and placing hot cinders below and above, the Hghtest 
 soda biscuits may be cooked in a few moments. By adding 
 lard or bacon fat, bannocks can be made Hghter. By add- 
 ing more water the latter can be used for maldng pancakes, 
 
 Page Fifty-one 
 
which should be cooked in very clean pans over a small, hot 
 fire. The batter should not stand, but be mixed as used. 
 Self-rising buckwheat flour mixed with a little water can be 
 rapidly converted into pancakes which are delicious with 
 maple syrup. 
 
 Camp fires for cooking should be as small as possible, and 
 only very dry wood used, as the heat and smoke are trying at 
 best. 
 
 Owing to the altitude, everything cooked by boiling re- 
 quires two or three times as long to cook as in other parts of 
 the country. This is especially true of onions, beans, etc. 
 Coffee, and even tea, may be boiled a short time, as boiling 
 only corresponds to a gentle simmering at sea-level. Coffee 
 should be carried in sealed cans, and used in a proportion of 
 not less than one cup of ground coffee to five of water. 
 
 Nothing is more delicious than fresh trout, especially if 
 well cooked. Thoroughly clean the fish, sprinkle salt and 
 pepper, and roll in corn meal. Fill the frying-pan with 
 fish, placed on their backs if freshly caught — otherwise they 
 will curl out of the heat — and use a cupful of bacon fat or 
 lard to cook with. Place a tin plate over the fish and cook 
 Tapidly, changing the level of frying-pan so that the hot 
 grease reaches every part uniformly. If possible, cook one 
 aide through before turning the fish, so as not to break them 
 up. In twenty minutes they should be thoroughly cooked, 
 the outside showing a rich golden brown color. 
 
 A single grouse may be made to do for several men by 
 making a "slumguUion," by cutting in small pieces and 
 stemng in water to which is added flour, onions or potatoes, 
 and seasoning. 
 
 The chief requisites in good camp fare is a clear, brisk fire 
 and a little care and attention to details. It should be borne 
 in mind that camp cooking, however it may appear at first, 
 is really the cleanest in the world, the only kind we could 
 watch and afterwards enjoy. The only extraneous matter 
 that falls into camp dishes is ash and cinders from a clean, 
 wood fire. 
 
 Experience in folding blankets will save many a sleepless 
 night. Lay a canvas cover or some horse blankets over the 
 
 Page Fifty-two 
 
spruce or balsam bed. Blankets should be laid so that the 
 lower part may be folded under at least 25 inches. The sides 
 are then folded under in like manner or pinned with safety- 
 pins so as to make a kind of sleeping-bag. Other blankets 
 are folded under in like manner in successive layers, so that 
 there is no opening where the cold air may enter. If sleep 
 is not otherwise possible, draw top of blanket over the head, 
 leaving only the nose outside. This is equal to an extra 
 blanket in warmth-giving value. 
 
 Page Fifty-three 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Abbot Pass, 10, 11, 12, 26, 42. 
 
 Abbot, Philip S., 11. 
 
 Alpine Club of Canada camp, 22. 
 
 Astley, W. J., 15. 
 
 Bannock, How to cook, 51. 
 
 Beebive, Tbe, 8, 13. 
 
 Ascent of, 16. 
 Blankets, How to fold, 52. 
 Books on Canadian Rockies, 45. 
 Boom Lake, 33. 
 Bow River, 6. 
 Camp fires, 52. 
 Cataract Brook, 39. 
 Cathedral Mountain, 40. 
 Chalet, Lake Louise, 6. 
 Cliffs at Lake Louise, 9. 
 Consolation Lakes, 32. 
 Consolation Valley, 29, 32. 
 Death Trap, 12. 
 Desolation Valley, 29. 
 Devil's Thumb, 16. 
 Edwards, Dr., 7. 
 Eiffel Peak, 23, 35, 36. 
 Fairview Mountain, 8, 19. 
 Fishing in Boom Lake, 33. 
 Consolation Lakes, 32. 
 Moraine Lake, 31. 
 Giant Steps Falls, 23, 24. 
 Goats, Rocky Mountain, 18, 43. 
 Green, Dr., 7. 
 Hector Lake, 15. 
 Grouse, How to cook, 52. 
 Hector, Sir James, 5. 
 Hector Station, 39. 
 Horseshoe Glacier, 25, 26. 
 How to climb mountains, 46. 
 Kicking Horse Pass, 6. 
 Knox, Agnes, 14. 
 Kootenay Indians, 42. 
 Laggan, 5. 
 Lake Agnes, 12, 14. 
 Annette, 19, 27. 
 Louise, 7. 
 McArthur, 43. 
 Oesa, 42. 
 O'Hara, 39, 40. 
 Larch Valley, 33, 35. 
 Lefroy Glacier, 11. 
 Little Beehive, 14. 
 Lyalls Larch, 13. 
 Marmot, 18. 
 McArthur, J. J., 43. 
 Mirror Lake, 12, 13. 
 Mitre Pass, 11, 26. 
 Moraine Lake, 31. 
 Circuit of, 37. 
 Mount Aberdeen, 13, 28. 
 
 Mount Babel, 30. 
 Bident, 32. 
 Biddle, 35, 43. 
 Deltaform, 34, 37. 
 Fairview, 8, 19. 
 Fay, 26, 31. 
 Hector, 15. 
 
 Hungabee, 23, 34, 37. 
 Molar, 15. 
 Niblock, 8. 
 Odaray, 40. 
 Owen, 42. 
 Temple, 18, 27. 
 Schafeer, 40. 
 St. Piran, 8, 15. 
 Sheol, 19. 
 Victoria, 7, 11. 
 Whyte, 8. 
 Yukness, 40. 
 Narao Lakes, 39. 
 
 Notes for walkers and climbers, 46. 
 O'Hara, Col. R., 40, 41, 42. 
 Opabin Pass, 26, 41. 
 Pancakes, How to cook, 51. 
 Paradise Valley, 18, 21. 
 Park Mountain, 43. 
 Pinnacle Mountain, 19, 23. 
 Pinnacles, The, 25. 
 Pipestone Valley, 15. 
 Preservation of natural beauty, 47. 
 Provisions for a camping party, 50. 
 Saddleback, The, 17. 
 Saddle Mountain, 19. 
 Sawback Range, 13. 
 Sentinel Pass, 26, 35. 
 Sherzer, Dr., 11, 35. 
 Siffleurs, 18. 
 
 Temperatures at Lake Louise, 50. 
 Temple, Sir Richard, 27. 
 Trail to Lake O'Hara, 40. 
 Moraine Lake, 30. 
 Paradise Valley, 18, 21. 
 Saddleback, 18. 
 Upper lakes, 12. 
 Trout, How to cook, 52. 
 Tower of Babel, 30, 31, 33. 
 Valley of the Ten Peaks, 29. 
 Victoria Glacier, 10. 
 Wapta Lake, 39. 
 Wastach Pass, 25, 26. 
 "Weather, Notes on, 49. 
 Wenkchemna Glacier, 34, 35. 
 Lake, 33, 34. 
 Pass, 26. 
 Valley, 29. 
 Wilson, T. E., 7. 
 Wiwaxy Peaks, 40, 41. 
 
 Page Fifty-four 
 
Wapta. L. 
 
LE N '09