:^ The Practical Designer FOR WOMEN'S. MISSES'. JUNIORS' & CHILDREN'S CLOAKS & SUITS, Shirt Waist Suits and Dresses WITH GRADING and SPECIAL MEASUREMENTS ACCORDING TO THE MOST APPROVED & Up-To-Date METHOD ^pertally i3p0igne& iffor ^flf ilnatrurtion BY ISIDOFl ROSEISTFELD w NEW YORK. U. S. A. 1911. COPYRIGHT 1911, BY I. ROSENFELD. ENTERED IN THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS WASHINGTON. D. C. /n n^/ ISIDOR ROSENFELD i THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER PREFACE. The system illustrated ami explained in this work is, in man\- respects, easier and simpler to learn than T have ever seen. The principle on which they are l)ased is similar to nianv \va\s which I have given in my previous instructions, but more simplified in many ways and made more convenient for controlling correct divisions, and positive proportions, without the uncertain aid of misleading measurements. The system is based on the positive proportions, easily connectable to any size or style, which cannot fail to create in the designer or cutter who adopts it that confidence without which success is impossible. This work has been in jjreparation for many years, and is all exceptional work bearing on the subject. Having carefully studied the work of the most noted systematical and practical methods, they are thoroughly explained. Through many years of practical experience in teaching methods of de- signing and garment cutting, and through a wide acquaintance with the needs of the trade, I came to the understanding of the fact that the simpler a system the better result will be obtained by its use. and the more acceptable to all right- minded designers and garment cutters. It has been, therefore, my principle to adopt such a system for all kinds of garments and my principles have been, I believe, so successful that all who studv this work will be more than ever safe from their troubles. I hope that the satisfaction I feel in completing this work, as I believe this to be the best, will be appreciated by our progressive trade.. THE AUTHOR. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER IXTRoDrCTIOX. Recognizing tlie great need of a niddern work on designing and garment cutting for women, misses, juniors and children, I prepared the system which will probably answer the purpose of all kinds of garments. The interest of this work impressed me to write such a system from the outgrowth of many years of practical experience, and comliines a simplicity and accuracy that were ne-\-er before published in the details of designing and garment cutting. The natural result, I believe, will be found in this work for all those who desire a good stud_\- on this subject. It is gathered from facts of many years' travelling through the field. However, I am glad to say that thousands of readers will have the oppor- tunity of looking into practical w(.irk on designing and garment cutting, and to such an extent that has become necessarw which I have enlarged upon, adding many facts, as it is practically a new work. This is certainl)' a new WLirk which T hope that, in time, will be properly recognized and given attention. It is. I think, the greatest work of the twen- tieth century. The standing of practical designers depends upon the practical development of garment cutting. This is remarkably true. I am sure that the one who studies this work will be led to mechanical control of practical knowledge in designing and garment cutting. ISIDOR ROSENFEI.D. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER THE GRAMMAR OF DESIGNING AXD GARMENT Cl'TTING. Tlie grammar of garment cutting is adapted by the first 10 numbers which are producing the height and width proportions of the woman's body. These numbers are called grammar numbers, and they are as follows: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. These numbers shall be divided into two classes : They are called odd and even. These numbers are originators of the height and width proportions. In order to begin to produce the regular proportions for the female form, we write out the 10 numbers as follows: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 and con- nect the odd and even numbers as shown. Now connect the odd numbers, 1 to 3 and 5 to 7. Now add these numbers, as from 1 and 3 are 4 ; 5 and 7 are 12. Now connect the even numbers, 2 and 4 are 6 ; 6 and 8 are 14. Now add all ready numbers, which are 4, 12, 6 and 14, which amount to 36 inches which is the size of garment and the beginning number of the width proportions. In order to get the other width proportions, add the beginning number of 36, which is the number 3, to the total amount of 36 which will make it 39 inches for the standard bust measurement. In order to get the waist measure- ment, take 1/3 of 36 and 1 inch less which is 11 ; now take these 11 inches from 36 which leaves 25 inches for the waist measurement. In order to get the hip measurement, take 1/2 of 36 and add to the waist measurement which is 25 inches and this will make 43 inches for the standard hip measurement which is 43 inches for the standard hip measurement. In order to get the height proportions the grammar numbers are again used as beginning 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, connect the beginning and ending number between 1 and 10 as follows : 1 and 10 are 11. 4 and 7 are 11. 2 and 9 are 11. 5 and 6 are 11. 3 and 8 are 11. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER Now use again the first numbers, as 1 and 10 are 11. Now add these numbers which make 6 x 11 which will amount to 66 inches or 5 feet 6 inches, which is the total height to the body. This action is shown by the proportional measurements. If the pro- portional measurements are changed, we shall know how much the measure- ments are increased or decreased, which will be changed according to the style of the garment or according to the latest models from time to time. These height proportions, which are made by this method, are only for woman's size. The smaller sizes are to be followed according to the age with the dififerent heights as follows : The misses" sizes 18 shall measure in height 5 feet 5 inches. The misses' sizes 16 shall measure in height 5 feet 4 inches. The misses' sizes 14 shall measure in height 5 feet 3 inches. Juniors' sizes are as follows: The juniors' size for 18 shall measure in height 5 feet 4 inches. n 5 feet 3 inches. IG 5 feet 3 inches. 1-5 5 feet 1 inch. 14 5 feet inch. 13 4 feet 11 inches. 1'3 4 feet 10 inches. The children's sizes are as follows : Size 14 measures in height 5 feet 12 4 feet 10 inches. 10 4 feet 3 inches. 8 4 feet 4 inches. 6 4 feet 4 3 feet S inches. 3 3 feet 4 inches. 1 3 feet For dividing this height find lesson, "How to divide the heiarht." THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER THE MEASURE OF A WOMAN BY PROPORTION. No table of proportions that I have yet seen in print gives an established and perfect form for obtaining divisions and sub-divisions of either height or circumference measures and none of them, therefore, can be relied upon to secure satisfactory results. Some years ago the fact was deeply impressed on my mind that a cor- rect system of proportions of the human form, applicable to every shape, nor- mal, stooping or erect, was greatly needed by the trade. This impression incKiced me to some principles that should be sound in theory, on which to construct such a system that should completely fulfill the requirements of proportionate and disproportionate forms with equal exactness. My investigations were commenced on the supposition that the average height of woman is five feet six inches, and my calculations were made to har- monize with this. The resulting scale of proprrtions radiates from this height, modified and corrected by proportions of bulk, is thoroughly illustrated and explained in these pages. The scale is automatic, and every size of any height required can be found. To illustrate how the sizes and proportions of the body are obtained, I submit the following problem : A RULE OF PROPORTIONS. The rule of proportions already explained will be found to be equally applicable to the female figure and serves well to bring out the many peculiari- ties of the form. The height of the body is divided into three principal parts ; the first part is the head space, from the top of the head to the socket-bone. The second part is the natural waist length in back, from socket-bone to the hollow of the waist. The third part is the skirt length in front, from natural waist to the ground. In a lecture on proportions I expressed these views, and also proceeded to sketch an outline of a system of measurements on the several positions for the human form, which measurements might be so combined that the total height as well as other details should be the outcome and not the basis of the method employed. The rule of proportions to be immediately fully described and illustrated is founded on such a plan. The standing height of the female figure is five feet six inches, or sixty-six inches, and includes the length or space of head. We first take ofif 1/8 of the height, which is 8 1/4 inches for this height, and the balance of this is left for the indication of clothing. The total height is divided into eight units. These units are planted to simplified purposes. One unit covers the head space. Two units cover the waist length and five units cover the length of skirt in front. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER HOW TO FIND THE HEIGHT. Having the total height of a figure measuring 5 feet 6 inches, we draw a straight hne of this length from A to B and one at right angles with its top, from A to C, which shall be one-half length of the first line. A to C is one- half of A and B. Now connect C to B by a line and make half of this, which is D. From the pivot, B by D, sweep the curved line to the straight line which gives E, just equal to the natural waist length, from head to hollow of the waist and again from the waist to the floor, which is called the length for skirt in front. Let this sub-division continue and oljtain other points. Now take one- third of the distance from A to E, this will make J. This is the head space which we do not cloth. Now take one inch below J, which makes K. Now divide the space from K to E, which makes I. Raise up 3/4 of an inch to make L. The spaces from A to J is the head space, from J to K allow one inch for the collar stand. Regard- ing the natural waist length, we now take the space from K to E and half of this space makes I, from I to L is 3/4 of an inch. Now we can understand that from K to L is the depth of size, 7 inches ; and from L to E is the side body length, which is 8 inches for this height. From E to F draw a straight line and divide this space, which makes C. Now sweep from C to H ; from E to H measures 10 inches for this height. This space is called the raise. This space or measurement is used for riding breeches, bloomer or divided riding skirts. From H to B measures 31 inches for this height. This space can be used for the inside length for riding pants, riding breeches and bloomers. M is half of H and B, N is 3 inches up from M. N is the natural point of the knee line. Having the number for any height, we can understand and safely deviate any height for correcting forms by reducing the one height or increasing the other. The size remains the same. Whatever the size of breast may be, the height is regulated by its own length, according to the divisions as given in this problem or the table else- where given in this work. When the height increases the length of natural waist, front and back depth all increases in the same ratio. The scale which I give includes the allowances needed in drafting. To make the system of propor- tions perfectly clear and easy to use for the student, I prepared a table of sizes which will assist in quickly obtaining the results of these measurements. For childrens' and junior garments we shall follow a different method of dividing the height regarding the build of these two forms. The reason why these two bodies difl:'er is that they do not wear any tight corsets and. there- fore, the change is to be made between the socket bone and the waist line which calls for the back depth. Regarding a correction for the space between the socket bone and waist line we shall divide the waist line as, for instance, at the waist line for junior size 15, which is 14 1/4 inches. We shall take 1/3 of this 14 1/4, which makes 7 1/8 ; and in order to get the back depth we shall take of? 1/3 of an inch from 7 1/8, which will make 6 5/8 inches for the back depth. Now add 1/3 of an inch which you have taken off from 7 1/8 and add to the lower part of 7 1/S which will make the under arm length 7 5/8 inches. For the children's sizes, for instance, take size 6 ; where the waist length is about 11 inches; now divide this 11 inches which will make 5 1/3 inches. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER Now take off only 1/4 of an inch of 5 1/3 which will leave 5 1/4 inches for the back depth and will make the under arm length 5 3/4 inches. The reason why these changes are made in these two dififerent sizes is to lengthen the deepness of the back length which is needed for this size regarding the good fitting gar- ment. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER PROPORTIONAL HEIGHT SCALE. The proportional and Antomatic Table of sizes in these pages gives the length for depth, side body, natural waist and skirt length in front, ranging from 5 feet to 6 feet, arranged to correspond with the width of breast from 3? to 48 inches. Although it only gives them to 48 inches, it can readly be calcu- lated what increase is needed for any size above this figure by comparing the difference between the size below and adding it to 48 to get the size wanted. The number on the top line of each little space is the natural waist length. The second row is the depth of size in back, from top line to the breast line. The third row is the side body length, from under arm to waist line. On the bottom of this table of proportions we have the proportional skirt lengths for any height wanted. The complete heights are placed under the height number and it shows all the lengths. This table gives 147 different sizes and many more combinations which are valuable and simplifies the method of correcting measures. In applying it to practical use we give the following examples, which will make it clear and readily understood. Suppose we have a person measuring 36 breast, and whose height is 5 feet 6 inches, and want to find the proportion for use in drafting. We first look for the breast size, 36, on the side ; and on the number of height, 5 feet 6 inches. Now we go down from the last number till we are opposite 36, and we find in the little box space 15 1/2 natural waist length, 7 inches depth of size in back, and 8 l/"2 inches side body length under arm. Take another case : 42 size on the side, and on the top 5 feet 10 inches, and, going down from the last, find the space opposite 42, and we have length of waist 16 7/8 and also the other measurements. In the same way we find all and every size for use. In drafting proportionate garments apply the sizes found on the scale or table of proportions, and when the height increases or decreases find the corre- sponding size. This can easily be found because it is seldom necessary to deviate more than two sizes from the proportionate. The manner of using the table for short or tall figures is the same as the regular form. By using the table of proportions in the manner explained, anv size cor- responding to the form can be easily found, and it is, therefore, valuable not only for regular height, but also for short and tall forms. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER Proportional Height Scale and Automatic Table for female figures. Height in Feet 5 3/1 5/2 5/3 5/4 3/5 5/6 5/7 5/8 3/9 5/10 5/11 5/12 SIZES 32 133/4 6 7% 14 6'/8 7% 141/4 6 1/4 8 141/2 63/8 81/8 143/4 61/2 81/4 15 65/8 83/8 151/4 63/4 8I/2 151/2 6% 85/8 153/4 7 83/4 16 71/8 8% I61/4 7'/4 9 I61/2 7% 9% 163/4 71/2 91/4 34 13% 6'/8 73/4 141/8 6'/4 7% 14% 63/8 8 145/8 6I/2 81/8 14% 65/8 8 1/4 151/8 63/4 83/8 153/8 6% 8I/2 155/8 7 85/8 15% 7% 83/4 16% 71/4 8% 16% 73/8 9 165/8 71/2 9% 16% 75/8 91/4 17 73/4 91/4 36 14 6'/4 73/4 14'/4 63/8 7% 141/2 6'/2 8 143/4 65/8 81/8 15 63/4 8 1/4 15 1/4 6% 83/8 151/2 7 81/2 153/4 7% 85/8 16 7 1/4 83/4 l6'/4 7% 8% 161/2 71/2 9 163/4 75/8 9% 38 I4I/8 63/8 73/4 143/8 61/2 7% 145/8 65/8 8 14% 63/4 8% 151/8 6% 8 1/4 153/8 7 83/8 155/8 7'/8 8'/2 15% 7'/4 85/8 16% 73/8 83/4 16% 7 1/2 8% 165/8 75/8 9 16% 73/4 91/8 17% 7% 91/4 40 14'/4 6'/2 73/4 14'/2 65/8 7% 143/4 63/4 8 15 6% 8% 151/4 7 81/4 151/2 71/8 83/8 153/4 71/4 8I/2 16 73/8 85/8 16'/4 71/2 83/4 I61/2 75/8 8% 163/4 73/4 9 17 7% 9% 171/4 8 91/4 173/8 8% 9 1/4 42 143/8 6% 73/4 145/8 63/4 7% 14% 6% 8 151/8 7 8'/8 153/8 71/8 81/4 155/8 71/4 83/8 15% 73/8 81/2 16% 71/2 85/8 16% 75/8 83/4 165/8 73/4 8% 16% 7% 9 17% 8 9% 44 l4'/2 63/4 73/4 143/4 6% 7% 15 7 8 151/4 71/8 8'/8 151/2 7 1/4 8«/4 153/4 73/8 83/8 16 71/2 81/2 I6I/4 75/8 85/8 161/2 73/4 83/4 163/4 7% 8% 17 6 9 171/4 8% 9% 171/2 81/4 91/4 46 145/8 6% 73/4 14% 7 7% 151/8 71/8 8 153/8 71/4 81/8 155/8 73/8 8I/4 15% 71/2 83/8 16 75/8 83/8 16% 75/8 8I/2 163/8 73/4 85/8 165/8 7% 83/4 16% 8 8% 17% 8% 9 173/8 81/4 9% 175/8 83/8 91/4 173/4 8I/2 9'/4 48 143/4 7 73/4 15 7'/8 7% l5!/4 71/4 8 151/2 73/8 81/8 153/4 71/2 8'/4 I61/4 73/4 8I/2 16'/2 7% 85/8 163/4 8 83/4 17 8% 8% 171/4 81/4 9 17 1/2 8% 91/8 PROPORTIONAL SKIRT LENGTH Front 37 '/2 381/8 383/4 393/8 40 405/8 411/4 41% 421/2 43% 433/4 443/8 45 Side 39'/2 40'/8 403/4 413/8 42 42% 431/4 43% 44'/2 45% 453/4 463/8 47 Back 41'/2 42'/8 423/4 433/8 44 445/8 45«/4 45% 461/2 47% 473/4 483/8 49 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER THE STUDY ON WIDTH PROPORTIONS. Many people would like to know how and where the bust is increased ; also the other measurements, as the waist and hips. The majority fail to think of this great importance, and this is why the question of the standard measure- ment for bust, waist and hip was never answered. The bust measurement espe- cially was always a misunderstood measurement. It often happens that a bust measurement is not known ; or. if it is known, it is not known how much the bust should be for a 3G size or how the bust should be increased for the size wanted ; and so the waist and hip measurements are misunderstood regarding this increase. Therefore, I have prepared a practical outline for simplifying this method by clearly showing and explaining how to make and test such measurements for yourself. To control these width proportions have patience and read carefully the further instructions. See Diagram No. 2. To begin showing the operations of the width division, we draw a line from A to B ; this is 1/3 of 3G which is 12 inches, C is 1/2 of A and B. Now make a circle at C to meet A and B ; this circle will measure 36 inches, size of chest measurement. Now draw a line from C to D ; this space shall also meas- ure 12 inches, or 1/3 of 30 inches. Now draw lines from A to D and from B to D, and measure for bust from A, B and D and back to A ; this will give full bust measurement, 39 inches. Now make E between A and C, and F between C and B, and connect with lines to D. Now measure these lines from F to D. and E to D. This v\'ill give full waist measurement, 25 inches. For hip meas- urement make from C to D 1/3, which is from C to G. Now measure from C to G; and from A, B, D to A will give full hip measurement, 43 inches. Changes on width proportion for either size are only made in order to build the model of fashion for each season, and such measurements can be had bv the writer free of charge. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER Diagram No. 2 13 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER A TEST OF SYSTEMATICAL KNOWLEDGE AND THEIR PRINCIPLES. A system of designing and garment cutting will be carried out with a great many principles. The first one of our principles is to kno^v the different sorts of fittings, as the tight fitting, three-quarter fitting, half fitting and full fit- ting. Every one of these garments shall be adopted in a different manner and shape. The tight fitting garment has its strict fitting points, the spaces between gores are not changeable for any reason. Before measuring tight fitting gar- ments have seams taken off' both sides of the gores, and after measuring for each gore it shall amount to half the waist measure wanted for the size. The ha!f fitting garments shall be tested the same way as the tight fitting, except the waist. It is not necessary that the waist for half fitting garments shall be tested. Should you want to measure it, it should measure half of the size wanted without the seams taken oft': for size 06 the waist should measure 18 inches, in- cluding seams. The hip for half fitting garments shall be always full. The three-quarter fitting garment shall be tested the same way as the tight fitting, and shall also carry the same gores as the tight fitting garment. The waist of this garment shall be increased with the curving or shaping of the waist, which makes it three-quarter fitting. This garment shall only be drafted from a tight fitting outline and no other. The full fitting, which is called a box coat, is cut only in two parts ; no shape or waist effect is required, therefore the waist at the hip is not measured for this garment. It is tested only across the chest and bust, the hips shall be cut very full. The test of patterns is, to a great extent, necessary for those who wish to be accurate in their measurements. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 14 Model loattems should be tested before they are used for fashion work or gard- ing. The testing should Ijegin at the depth of size, natural waist lengtii or full length coat. The size should be earefuU}- examined at tlie nock and arndiole, as these parts of the coat are the most important parts built for the size, otherwise the size is not measured across for the size it is only a controlling nnmljer for its use. The bust measurement directly adapted for the connection to the size or so Ciilled chest measure, the bust measure is an increase on the chest line and it shows the development of bust. This bust measurement is changed into action al'lei' ih'afts are reqiiii'oil. A bust line is, therefore, adapted which is taken from or between the regular breast or chi^t line to 1 lie natural waist line in front, and where the breast can be measured to tlie depth of size on hack where a .special line shall be made across. The waist is measured on the waist line in front of the garment. Tiie waist shall be measured on the long waist snug. 'I'he waist measuring shall be carefully considered on tight fitting It is not necessary to mea.sure the waist for half fitting garment. It should be 3 inches more than the waist measures. The waist for box coats shall not be measured. The hip shall be measured the same way as the waist on the liipline. The liip shall always be measiii'ed full for all parts of the garment seams siiall be taken off first and after, the insii'e ^pa(■e shall lie mea'sured. The bottom of short coats shall not be measured. Full length coats or capes sJiall measure half way as much as tlie full length of the garment measurement. Suppose the length of the coat or cape is 50 inches, the half of your coat or cape shall uieasui-e also fiO inches. This means that the full bottom shall be 100 inches. 15 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER THE SYSTEM OF I'JfAl'TlCAE ^•AEUE. The value of 'a^ system is its .simiilicity and its correctness is greatly de- pendent upon their approved outlines. This system is placed on original outlines and useful measurements. The platform measurements of this sptem axe as follows:- Size, Bust, AVai.'^t and Hip. These measurements are called, "Width Proportions."' Except these measurements we have deptli of size and natural waist lengih. L These measurements are called : hight Divisions. The reader will find these topics all explainal in the following pages. The simplicity of this s)-steni, lies in the constructional conditions, where connection's are made at the beginning. As the height and width measurements arc combined and they work its necessity To operate this sj^stem the student only needs to know the size of garment wanted and the length of natural waist length Any bust measurement can l:>e connected to any size. The waist and hip mea.surements we can either incrtase or decrease. The foundation lines are the saane for all kind.s of style or fitting wanted. The original outgrowing numbers for our model size can be obtained by carefully studying its needs for \he trade. The model size used' for manufacturing woman's garments is 3G size. The size 3G, shall therefore carry out aJl its standard width measurements io be enrolled from the 36 size number. The first outgrowing measurement we call the bust. In order to get the bust measurements we count the difference be- tween the 2 size numbers o and (!. This amounts to 3. Now add these 3 inches to the size which is 3G and Uii-; will make 39 indbes bust measure. The next measurment we want is the waist. Take lj3 of 36, and 1 inch less will make 1 finches, take off these 11 inches from 36, and it will leave clear '2.5 inch- es, which will lie the waist measurement. Al'liT this we look for the hip mea.suremcnt. Take 1/2 of 30, which is 18, add 18 to 2.5 in. waist, will make 43 inch, hip measurement. These three measurements are controlled by the size 36 only. These meas- urements can be changed at any time wanted, regarding st3de of model, meaning if smaller or larger busts, waist and hip wanted for the same size, otherwise these are the standard niioasurements of the size 36. There are a great nian-y who do not Imow the creation of tlie size wanted or where the size of the model should be measur- ed. The size of the model can be obtained by measuring around the chest. As a rule this measurement works overbuilt vnth 1 inch On live models this measur- ment should be measured snug, and it Mill ]irove a proper size number of the body for women'? garments. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER The .Misses model sizu is IG ^yuai's oi' age, and luea^iuvs :>4 iiiehes anmiid llie cliest. Tills chest measureineiit is used as a g'uide muuber. The bust, aneasureiiieut is developed from the chest size. In order to get the bust we add the first number of 34, which is 3, to 34 and it will make 37 bust measurement. Ilegarding the waist measurement, take 1/3 of 34, which is 11 1/4, which leaves 22-3/4. This space shall be fulfilled to 23 inches for waist measurement. Regarding the hip measure- ment, add half of size IT to the 23 waist measurement which will make in hip meas- urement. The Junior Model size is 12 years of age and measures 30 iuihes around the chest. This Junior chest measurement is used for the size guide. The increase of bust for this size is 1 inch less than the misses size. The misses size increases 3 indies and Junior only 2 inches. This will make for Junior size 12, 30 chest and 32 inches bust measurement. The waist for this junior size is the same as the misses size, 23 inches, as the waist for the Junior figure is greatly increased as a tight fitting cor- set is not worn by this model. For the hip measurement take half of the age num- ber of this size 12, and add it to chest numl:>er which is 30 inches, tliis will make G and 30, 36 inches for hip measurement. The Children's Model size is 6 years of age, measuring 26 inches aroimd the breast. The waist for this size is 24 inches. One more than the Junior waist meas- urement is, as the child of this age is built very fttll in the waist. The. hip measure- ment for this form is very flat, add the breast numbers and ii. which will give you 32 inches hip measurement. Each one of these models are to be considered as a dilTeiN iii luiili rrnm each dllier. The other divisional measurements can be found in the l'ulli>\viiiii' pa.u'es or in the proportional table of measurements. The complete tables of divisions are divided in many sections and sizes. The woman's regular sizes are from 32 to 44. The misses sizes are from 1 1 to 18. The jimioTS sizes are from 12 to IG. The chidlren sizes are from 2 to 14. The woman's sizes are called according to their chest measurement. The misses sizes are called according to their age from 14 to 18 years old. The juniore sizes are called according to their ages from 12 to IG years of age. The eliildren's sizes are called according to their ages from 2 to 14 years of age. The complete table of proportional measurements can be found in the I'ollow- ing pages. 17 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER Proportional Measurement for Women's Garments for the height of 5 feet 6 inches. Natural Inside Width Back Waist Sleeve of Size Bust Waist Hip Depth Length Lengt'i Back Collar 32 35 23 41 6H 15>i 17 (>H 6/2 34 37 24 42 678 15^8 \7)2 7 634 36 39 25 43 7 15^. 18 1% 7 38 41 26 44 7'b 1558 I8J4 7/2 7K 40 43 27 45 7 '4' 15^ 183^ 7% 7/2 42 45 2.^)4 46 7-^-: 15'- 18 8 7K 44 46 30 47 7'i' 16 19 8K 8 The width oj back ond collar measurements on this table is showing half way only, included with seams. SCALE METHOD ON DKAFTING. For this s}sl,em of (Iviii'tiuL;' we are using a siniplilid divisional scale. This scale is not sold to non - pupils, therefore, 1 have prepared a table of all kinds of , divisions which -svill fulfill the requirements of time saving. The system of 'drafting in these pages is explained hoth ways, scale ni\ethod and inch method. ] s-hall explain the differonts of scale method & inch method, scale method is called the divisional way of d.rafting as to follow 1/8. 1/4, 1/2, of size or any other di- vibion, this is followed on the scale, and without the scale we use the inches which amounts to 2 1/4 — i 1/2 — or 9 inches on 3(i size, or more or less for any other sizes. I am also showing and explaining in the instruction both ways as I mention the amounts 1/6 of size or 3 inches, l/Sjof size or 6 inches. The devision is followed by the half size, when I say 1 ^H or 1 /S of 30 thisfmeans 1/G or 1/8 of 18 inches. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 18 The measurements which we use for drafting pr.,portional sizes are as follow: Back Depth, from, A. to B. Natural Waist Length, from A. to C. Chest all around which is the size, at E. Waist all around' at G. Bust all around at F. Hips all around at, II. Sleeve length fmni 1. In .1. 19 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER L E S S OX 1 . I. 1 shall now cDiiiiiii'iicr |(i e.xiilain the ilral'tiuj;' of a woiiii'iis iiioilel size 30. This begins the foimilation liiie^ foi- the liodv. from neek (1o\mi lo tlie hip. We shall iTse the follow iiig slaiidai'd nieasureiuents I'ov ilrafting a regiihir 3G size. Baclv Deptli T iiiehes Bust 39 inches Xatui'al waist leiiglh ]."> 1 ■.' iiielies Waist 25 inches Size or Chest -'ICi iuelies Hip +3 inches Xow liegiii tu iliafl ihc lines from A. to U. ami from .V. to \\ . From A. to B is 7 inch Imck ilejith. from A to C is l-Vl/S in. natural waist length. Fram C to D is G inches hip Icngtli. The liip line is always (i inelies helow tlie waist line. .vTow cross all lines from A. B. C. D. Now measure from B. to G. and from L).; to E. '?/3 yards of size oi' Vi inches. jN'ow draw a line f rem E. to G. up to U. now take( half of B. and G. to make H. from H. to ' is 1 1/4 inch, now dxaWta line from I. up to J. from A. to K. is 1/6 of a size. Or 3 inches. From/K. to L. is 1 inch now connect a line from L. to J. out .M. In order to get the correct width of shoukler for any size use a square from L. to J. and this will give a correct width of shoulder At M. from G. to F.i's 1/6 of size. Or 3 inches draw a line up f roni\ F. to Q. from Q. to P. is 1/6 of size, and from P. to 0. is also 1/6 of size or 3 inches. is the neck and shouldeiy point of front. Fi'om D. to E. is 1/12 of size or or 1/12 inch, from C. to S. is 2 inches. Now draw a line from E to S and from S to A. this line buildte the shape of the body. Xow dra^- a line from the neck point to T at the neck depth, this line builds the front shiiiil(]er. The lines of this diagram sliall be named in-order to keep track of them as these are the foundation lines for all drafts. The line at A. is eallecli, To/i linr. The line at B. is called llmi^i line. The line at? C is called Wal.4 Vuir. The jine at D. is called ////) lhic. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 20 r.,esson No. 1 21 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 2. ■g The beginning oC tlii? Irsson is tlie =arae a? Lesson 1. Now contimie licssnn Now measure the shonkler at tlie back in order to get the proper shoiiMer widtli in front, measure first tlie back shoulder fi-om L to M and mark the same from to XJ. In order to connect tlie arm hole make from F In Y 1 - 1/'? inches and connect with line to U. This will complete the outline of the front arm hole, now measure the bust from T to Y is 39 bust measure or in inches this will amount to 19 - 1/3 inches. From Y to I is three inches for seam allowance, from P to W is 1/6 of size or 3 inches. Now connect a line from W to 1 which will malce the chest effect, we now begin to work the back, from E to Z is 1/G nf size or '■] inches, from S to XX is 1 inch less tlian from K to Z. now draw a line from Z to XX toll. 'I'.tiv'de T t(. ._' makes .'!.;;, cro'jS a small line from 33 I" 34, from M to 3-t is the Iwick put of llie ai'.'ii hole. Now begin to work the side !)ody of a tight fit'.nu' gniiiient, freiii Z to ': is 3/ i cf an inch, from XX to 3 is one inch. Now connec,-: lines from 2 to 3 and trom 3 tc H. After having this lino completed allow from '1 to N 3/1: of an i!;(li and from F to 13 also 3/4 of an inch. Now draw a line from N down to 13, divide bet\^■epn N to IT makes 0. Divide Ijetween 3 and, -i this will give T, di'aw a line from C, lo 7 down to 8, from G (o 5 is 1 inch. Both sides of ? iiMrk 2/-1- of an inch at 9 and hi Both sides of 8, 11 and 12 is also 3 !-4 of an inch. X'ow connfct lines from G to 9 and It), this will make a tight fitting effect ori the waist line, 7iow cross lines from 9 to 12 and from 10 to 11. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER Lesson _ 23 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 3 . liiis lessou will complete the tight fitting garment, fmni 4 to 1-i is 1 iudi. \my draw a line from 14 to N 1/4 of an inch space, in front from N, from 13 to 15 IS 1 inch, from E to 16 is also 1 inch, now^ cross line from 14 to 16 and from 4 to IJ this is a full increase of the side hip. From 18 to 19 is 1 1/-2 of the size or 1 1/2", from IS +0 ^O is 2 - 1/4" or one eight of size. Now draw a line from 14 to 2''. to reach 21, draw a line from 1 against 19 to reach 21 and. 22. Measiire from 21 to 32 P invi'es, also correct from 14 to 16, 6 inches for hip space. Draw a line front 24 ti. 16 this will finish the length of hip in fiont. Xow we begin the outline Lf a dart in front, divide the chest from F to 1, to make 23. Now take the amoimt be- tween 1 and 23 and place same from 1!) and 24 and draw, a line from 23 against 24, 20. and 25. Xow divide the space from 23 and 26 to make 30, from 20 to 27 is 1 inch, 25 to 28 1 - 1/4 inches. From 20 to 29 is 3 inches. Now connect lines from 30 to 27 and. from 30 to 29 and 31. Xow draw a line from 27 to 28, now cross the jiarallel lines with the waist from 27 to 31. Xow connect square line from 27, 31 and 32 . The space between 31 and 32 shall be carefully even in length, in order to have the dart of this garment correctly understood. Xow we begin to curve this complete outline, curving begins at the neck part and back at A, we first tost a sixth of the size from L toA and what- ever is over bnilt toward A. We curve down to T which is the deptlijof the size line, now hollow the both shoulders als o curve from M, 34^ from 34 to IT. to XX as slmwn on diagram. From X we directly begin to curve and finish at Z, now \\e increase from 34 to X a 1/2 inch up, and 3/8 for a se*ani and we again curve for the side from X to H to No. 3. From 3 to 2 we again curve separately from the waist line, now curve from X with a seam allowed to 5, at 5 raise the seam allowance for the inside side body and curve to 'G. N., now at the Same time we complete the front' arm hole, from U to V and N, thils completes the work of the arm hole, we again begin to curve for the inside side bodies, now begin the side curve from 5 to 9 and 10 to be finished strong at the waist line, now we start with the curve from the wai~t to the hip line from 9 to 13 and 10 to 11. This places the curves on the hip. Xow begin the side hip curving, from 4 to 15, have the same amount of curving as 9 tpi 12, from 14 to 16 makes a strong curve which is about 3/4 of an inch, this part of the garment should alw-ays carry the strongest curve as this is the strongest ]iart of the hip wanted for a tight fitting garment. Now begin to curve the dart in front up from 30 about 1 inch, begin to curve; 27 and 28 also from 30, 29, 31 and 32,at 30 always curve strong in order to have the dart lost at the finishing of 30 and up to 1 inch. Now curve from 16 to 32 and from 28 to 22 and a half inch up as shown on diagram. Xow begin to curve the neck from to W to 39, from W to 39 always allow the san»e, from 39 curve to 1, from 1 to 19, from 19 to 21 and 22, aiwavs in- crease to front by shaping with 1/2 ineli towards the front at 22. '^\^k completes the tight fitting garment. This garment wn be used for all sorts of tiglit fitting outlays wanted. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 24 Lesson 3 25 THE PEACTIGAL DESIGNEE LESSON 4 . TIGHT FITTIXG JACKET TWO DAETS IN FRONT This lesson begins the same way as lesson 3, this diagram is showing two darts in front also the button stand and collar. To begin the darts we take half of N to 14 which makes 23. Now take half of 1 and 21 makes 24, this line shows lis the height of raising np the darts for the bust. Now we begin to make the space between the darts, from 24 to 25 is 2 1/2 inches, from 25 to 26 is 3 inches, from 21 to 27 is 2 3/4 inches, from 27 to 28 is 3 3/4 inches. Now draw lines from 25 to meet 27 and 29, also to meet 28 and 30. Now we make the side lines for the dart, ivon\ 27 to 31 is 1/4 inch, from 27 to 32 is 1/3 inch, from 28 to 35 is 1/2 inch, from 28 to 3(!is2inches.Now cross parallellinesfromSland 35 to 37, now make all side lines for the darts from 25 to 31, 48 also 25 to 32, 47 is 1/4 from 29. Now draw lines from 26 to 35 and to 46, 46 is 1/4 from 30, again from 2G to 36 to meet 37. Now square line from 35 and 37 down to 38, this completes the two darts. The bottom stand for tight fitting is one inch, the allow- ance shall always be made on the breast and hip lines. From 1 to 20 is 1 inch and from 22 to 50 is also 1 inch for button stand, from 50 to 51 is a half inch allowed from the waist line lost. Now begin to draft the collar and lapel, in order to begin the collar we shall first decide the opening of the coat, the opening shall always be marked on the outside of the Imtton stand, for short lapels we begin the lapel on the breast line. Now before we begin to draft the collar we make one inch space for (■nllnrstandfrom to 42 tliisl is from the front neck ]ioint to the stand line for the coUar. Now draw a line from 20 to 42 and 43, from 42 to 43 is 1/6 of size or 3 inches, 43 to 44 is one inch, connect 44 to and curve the neck to W down way to 39 and 40, from W to 39 is 3 inches, this spare can be changed to any width wanted. From 39 to 40 is two incho- lajicl mitcli, from 39 to 41 is the collar notch, this space shouhl always be l/'A" lo-s llian llic lapel, from 43 to 45 i& 2 - 1/2", to draw a line to 41 or an inch lower than the notch of the collar to shape out the collar between 45 and 41 and finisli up at 39. Now cirrve the front 20 to tlie waist front and from the waist begin to shape out with a half inili fi'om 50 to 51, curve the bottom of front, now curve 14 to 16 with 6 i>elic<. from 3; to 38 and 36 to 46 .shall ako be 6 inches, now curve from- 16 to 38, curve 40, 47 and 48 to 49. 49 is a half inch shape up from 50. When cutting the front, a notch shall be made at the l)eginning of tlu' la|iol. This completes the Jacket with the two darts. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 26 Lesson 4 27 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 5 . TIGHT FITTING FRENCH SEAM GARMENT. This garment is drafted tlie same way as Les'son No. 3, this draft is onlv changed with the French seams. In order to begin, we allow on the back shoulder from N to M, 3/4 of an inch for a seam which is placed in the middle part of tli(^' back shoulder 25. 25 in half of M and L, from 25 to 5 draw a straight line, fnun 6 to :^5 draw a line with round stick to meet the straight line on the Lireast line The curve from 25 to G shall not be very round in order to correspond with I he- straight line of the back from 25 to 5, this completes the french seam at the back. Now begin the french seam at the front; in order to begin take half of and U, makes 32, now allow 3/8 on both sides to 33 and 34 for a full seam to correspond with the back shoidder. Draw a line from 33 to 37 which is lost to 18 and 23, tJiis makcd the outside front, from 34 draw a line to 38, from 34 to 38 is a pHralk;! line, this space shall be 3/4" parallel space between the two lines 33 and 34, 37 and 38. Now curve at 38 to 37 crossing the connection at 37 down to 19, 20 and 24, this completes the french seam in front. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 28 29 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER L E ^' ,S N (I . FOURTEEN GORE GARMENT The foundation of this diagram is the same as the others, now we begin tlie differnt actions, from, S to X is ]/12 of size or 1 - 1/3 inches from R to Z is 1 more inch or 2 - 1/2 inches, from X to 3 is one-half inch, from Z to 2 is 3/1 of an iueli lapped back for the hip increase. From 3 to 10 is also 1 - 1/2 inch, from 2 to 3!i is also 2 - 1/2 inches.. .Now mark from 10 to 9 again a 1/2 inch from 39 to 40, 3/4 of an incli. The difference in the spaces between the hip and waist is always 1 inch, if the gore measures on the hip line 2 - 1/2 inches it measures on the waist 1 - 1/2 inch. Now divide the shoulder for two seams, before we place the seams in place, we allow from M to 34, 3/4 of an inch on one seam as on diagram .5 and after we divide for the shoulder seam^. From L to 43 is 2 inches, from 34 to 44 is also 2 Indies, now couTiect straight lines from 43 to X and from 44 to 10. After complet- ing the straight lines draw curved lines from 3 to 43 and from 9 to 44, these curved lines shall meet on the breast line with the straight lines, now make the lines from the waist to hip as follows : From X to Z, from 2 to 3, from 10 to 39, and from 9 to 40, now take half of H and X makes G, alfeo half of 9 and 15 makes 7, now draw a line from5, 6, 7 and 8 from 6 to 5 is one inch wp, now decrease the waist part at 7 and increase the hip at ®, now both sides of 7 take out 3/4 of an inch to 4 and 14, booth sides of 8 also 3/4 of an inch to 11 and 12, now cross lines from 6 to 4 and 14 also from 4 to 11 and from 14 to 12 this finishes the side seami, now we begin in the front, from 15 to 16 is always 1 inch for tignt fitting garments, from 18 to 19 is 1 - 1/2 inch and from 18 to 21 is 2 - 1/4 inches, this part of the garment is also the same for all tight fitting garments. Now Ijegin the darts in front, to have a proportional raise up for the darts, we divide N to 16 which makes 23, also from 1 to 22 makes 24, now cross a line from 23 to 24. Measure from 24 to 25, 2 - 1/2 inches and from 25 to 2G, 3 inches, now make these spaces on the wailst line with a 1/4 inch more than on the top line, from 22 to 27 is 2 - 3/4 inches, and from 2T to 28 is 3 1/4 inches now draw lines from 2."i to 27, also from 26 to 28, 30. Now decrease the waist in front, buth sides of 27 and 28, from 27 to 31 is 1/4 inch, and from 27 to 32 is a 1/2 inch, from 28 to 35 is a 1/2 inch and from 28 to 36 is 2 inches, from 29 to .")! is a 1/4 inch also 30 to 52 is a 1/4 inch, now draw lines from 25 to 31 down to o'K draw lines from 25 to 32 and 51, from 26 to 35, 52, from 26 to 36, 37. At this ]>art of the garment be very cari'ful, dnnv a parallel lino l'i-om 35 to 3T and square a line down to 38, from 37 to 38 shall be 6 inches, also from 16 to 42, now connect 42 to 38 with a cuiTed line. Now begin to make the frencli seams in front, in order to begin measure the space at back from L to 43 and make the same from to -15, now measure from 44 to 34 and make the same from to 45, now measure from 44 TO 34 and make the same from U to 46, now allow from 45 to 20 3/S of art inc^ and ri-iim 46 to 17 also 3/8 of an inch. Now this space from 17 to 20 will match the widlli of 43 and 44, now draw lines from 20 to 25, 17 to 26, draw lines from 45 1(1 2.") and from 46 to 53. Xow curve the lines from 45 to 25 as shown on dia- gram to 31 and 50 with a straight line, again froni 20 to 25, 32 and 52. From 46 to 54 connecting with 26, 36, 37 and .'iS, now ciii\e tlic bottom frou; '>t l( -"il, 50 and 49, 49 is a 1/2 inch up from 48. 'J'his comiiletes the 14 gore fitting. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 30 LessDii 6 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 7 . 18 GOEE TIGH'J' FITTING GAEMENT. Tlie foundation of this garment is the same as the 14 goPe lie dit- ference in tliis draft is that this has one more seam running across the shoulder. Xow begin to work at the back, from R to Z is 2 - i^ inches, from S to X is 1 inch less or 1 - l/-± inches, between X and 3 is 1/4 of an inch, from Z to 2, 5/S of an inch lapped over to tlie back, from 3 to 4 is 1 - 1/2 inch, from 2 to 11 is 2 - 1/2 inches, this makes gore 2. From 4 to 5 ib 3/8 of an inch and from 11 to 12 is 5/8 of an inch. From 5 to 6 is 1-1/2 inches and from 12 to 13 is 2-1/2 inches. This completes gore 3. From 13 to 14 is 5/8 of an inch, from 6 to 7 is a 1/2 inch, now begin to divide the back shoulder from L to 43 is 1-1/2 inch, and from 34 to 44 is also 1-1/2 inehete, now take half of 43 to 44 which makes M, now draw straight line from 43 to X, from M to 4, from 44 to 6, now make curved lines with the round stick from, 43 to 3, from M to 5 and from 44 to 7, this completes the french seams. at the back, now begin the side bodiefe, from 7 to 8 divide, makes 9, divide also from I to Ni makes 6. Now draw a line from 6 to 9 and 15, from G to 5 is 3/4 of an inch up to the arm hole, now take out on the waist line on Ijoth sideb of 9, 55 and 56-1/2 inches and allow on the hip line from 15 to 16 and 17, 3/4 of an inch, now draw lines from 5 to 55 to 56 which is the waist line, now from 55 to 17 and from 56 to 16, from G to N - is the same as the other drafts which is 3/4 of an inch, from 8 to 10 is 1 inch, now maJie 1/4 inch space from N to the front way of arm hole and draw a line to 10. From E to 19 is 1 inch, now draw line from 10 to 19. The foundation of the front is the same as other tight fitted fronts only the french seams are planned the same way as on the back of this diagram, at the beginning we fiiift make the outlmes for the darts, from X to 10 take half which is 23. 24 is half of 1 to 25, sow cross a line from 23 to 24 this shows the length of the dJarts raising up, now measure the spaces for the darts, from 24 to 30 is 2 inches, the same is from 20 to 21 and from 21 to 22, now measure the spaces on the waist line, from 25 to 26 is- 2-1/4 inches the^-same is from S6 to 27 and 28, now take out between 26 and 29 a 1/4 inch, from 27 to 30 is 1/2 inch, from) 28 to 31 is 1-1/2 inches, now draw lines from 20 to 26 down to 46, from 21 to 27 down to 48, from 22 to 28 down to 35. Xom- draw lines from 20 to 29 and 47, from 21 to 30 and 48, from 22 to 31 and 36. Measure from 28 to 35 and malce the same from 31 to 36, now connect 10 to 19 with 6 inches and curve 19 to 36, now, curve from 35 to 48, 45, 47, 46, to 32, 32 is a 1/2 inch curved up from 50, from 46 to 47 is 1/8 of an inch. Now begin the french seams at the front, from to 37 ibthe same as from Jj to 34, from U to 38 is the same as from 34 to 44, now divide the space from 37 to 38 makes 39, now draw a line from! 39 to 21, now measure, the space from M tn 43 and 44 and make the same from 39 to 4° 41. Now cross lines from 41 to 20 ;iiil 40 to 22, now cross a line from 37 lost to 20 as this place of the garment shall ii:it lip increased for ibe l)ust effect. Now draw a 'line from 36 to 58, the space be- THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 32 tweeii '.''.' aiiil -'18 >:liall Ix' tlie ilduljle aiiinunt of IjS aucl 40 as the luii-t is only in- creased on this pni-t of the garment. Now hegin to curve from :^', to 20, U and -Ki, from A 1 to 20, 20 and -tT from Tl!)' to 21, 27, 45 again from ?,'.K 21, ISO and 48, from 40 to 22, 28 and ;3o, from 38 to 58, 31 and 3(5, wl;eu cutting out this garment seams shouhl he allowed on the hack, lioth sides of ;M, II down to the waist lost, also at the front 38 to 10, also 37" and 41 lost to the waist line. This completee the 18 gore tight fitting garment. Lesson 7 33 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER HALF FITTING GARMENT. LESSON 8. This garment begins tlie same way as the others, with the exception of its style, which is half fitted; this diagram is also followed by the same measurement as all other drafts. To begin, measure the depth of natural waist length and hip lengtli at A, B, C to D as all others ; from B to G aiid D to E "is 2/3 of size, or 12 inches; now divide B to G which makes H; from H to I is 1 l/l inches. Now draw a line from I to J, this is the width of back line ; from A to K is 1/6 of size, or 3 inches ; from K to L is 1 inch. Draw a line from L to J and M to I. Now take half of M and I which makes 25 ; N is 1 inch below 25 ; from M to N is the arm-hole at the back. Then take half of I and H which makes 26. Take a straight stick from J against 26, and draw a line at the same time from 26 to V, and make a mark at 4, which is on the hip line, from 4 to 2 is 1 inch, and from V to 3 is also 1 inch. Now cross a line from 3 to 4, from 3 cross a line between 1 and 26 ; 21 is 1/2 inch ; raise up at the side body from N for a seam allowance. From G to 5 and E to 6 is 3/4 of an inch ; this 3/4 of an inch is here planned the opposite way than the tight-fitting garment ; the 3/4 of an inch space is not used, as this garment is cut with one side body, and w^e only occupy one seam in- stead of two. To make this clearl)^ understood, between the tight- and half- fitting, for a tight fitting this 3/4 of an inch is increased for a seam ; for a half fitting this 3/4 of an inch is decreased, as we do not need the seam lor this garment, as the garment has one gore less than the tight-fitting gar- ment. Now begin the front; from 8 to 9 is 3/4 of an inch; from 6 to 14 is 1 inch ; from E to 23 is 3/4 of an inch. Then cross lines from G to 9, from 9 to 14, and from 7 to 23. Begin the front shoulder from O to T; cross a line from O to 24, the front shoulder; this is always the same width as the back shoulder. Draw a line from 24 to F for the front arm-hole. Now measure the bust ; from T to U is half of bust measurement ; from U to 1 is 3 inches, for seams. Cross a square line from 1 to 22 ; from Y to Z is 3/4 ■of an inch; this is half of the regular allowance. From Y to 12 is 2 1/4 inches always. Now cross lines from 9 to 12 and from 1 to Z and 20 : from 20 to 13 is i/2 inch. Now begin the dart : X is half of F and 1. Measure 1 to X and take the same from Z to 28. Now cross a line from X to 28, 15 and 11. Then divide X to 15 which makes 10. This is the line for the dart in front. The dart for half-fitting garments is a half decrease, as the tight-fitting garment, from 15 to 16 is 1/2 inch; from 15 to 17 is 1 1/2 inch. Now cross a straight line from 10 to 16 and 18, also from 10 to 17. Then cross a parallel line from 15 to 27 and draw a straight line down to 19; from 27 to 19 should be the same as from 16 to 18. All outlines are now ready. Begin to curve: from A, L, M, to N; from N to V and 2; this completes the back. Now begin the side body from 21 to 3 and 4. also from 21 to 5, 7 and 23, and bot- tom from 4 to 23. Then begin the front: from G, 9, 14 and 19 the arm-hole, from G to 24 and shoulder to O; from O to W, 1, Z and 13 to 18. as shown on diagram. Tliis completes the haii-fitting jacket. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 34 18 u 31 Lesson 8 35 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER HALF FITTING JACKET, FliENCH tiEAM, BliUAD BACK. L E S S N 1) . This gannont is drafted by all means the same ^^•ay as I lie first half fitting jacket, this draft changes at the French seams. Begin the same way, from J draw a line straight against the half space between H and 1 down to 1 also mark the hip at 4 the same time. From 4to 2 is 1 inch, now cross a line from lto2, from 1 to 3 is 1 inch, now cross a line from 4 to 3, from 3 to J make a round curve to meet the .-traight line between H and I. From M to N is 3/4 of an inch allowed for the -rams which arc ]daccd at J, this seam is not placed in the eenti.T of the slioiilder, as the back of this garment is broad. Fi-om' C to 5 is 3/4 of an inch, also from E to 6 is 3/4 of an inch, connect with a line from 7 to 23, from 8 to 10 is 3/4 of an inch, from 6 to 14 is also 3/4 of an inch, now cross lines from c to 10, from 10 to 14. Now measure the bust as always, frm T to U is 19 1/2 inchefe,. half of bust measurement 39, from* U to V 3 inches for seams, now cross a square line from V do^ni to 22, Y is the waist line, from JY to Z is 3/4 of an inch, from Y to 12 is 1/8 of size or 2 1/4 inches for a 3G size. Now cross a line from V to Z and 20, also from 10 to 12; from 10 to 12 is the long waist line; also correct from 10 to 14 6 inches and draw a line from 14 to 20. Now mark the dart line as always, hdce lialf of F to V, which makes X, now measure A' to X and hd and from X to 1 or between D and I. This completes the half fitting front with a dart on top. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 40 n Leison 1 2 ^ Q O 41 HALF FITTING GARMENT. DRESS SACK WITH A SHAWL COLLAR. LESSON 13. This garment is built uii the hah'-htting foundation; the garment ful- fills the requirements of the two-part jacket. To begin: We draw the same outlines as always from A to B ; C and D is the depth — natural waist length and hip length. The width of back is built the same way ; 1 is the width of back line and G is the regular box line ; divide from I lo G which makes N. Now draw a line from N to R and 2 ; take both sides of N, 3/4 of an inch at 4 and 5 ; both sides of R, 2 inches at 20 and 31 ; from 2 to 3 is 1 inch. Then cross lines from 4 to 21 and 2; also from 5 to 20 and 3. This com- pletes the side seam. The garment requires an underarm seam ; this under- arm seam- is lost to the pocket. To mark the place for the pocket draw a line down from F to 2 inches below the waist line. Draw a line somewhat slanting to the front ; now measure the pocket. The center of the pocket to 17 is 2 1/2 inches, and to 18 is also 2 1/2 inches; so the pocket measures 5 inches. Begin to mark the underarm seam: from G to 10 is 1 inch, and from 18 to 11 is also 1 inch; draw a straight line from 10 to 11, and shape both sides as shown on diagram. The st)de of this garment does not require any dart and, therefore, there is no allowance in front on the waist line. The button standard for this garment is 1 1/2 inches, as for all half-fitting gar- ments. This garment is cut with a shawl lapel. To begin, shape the neck for the garment very low from O to W down. Mark the opening at 6, then draw a line from 6 to 12 ; from O to 12 is 1 inch for the collar stand ; from 12 to 13 is 1/6 of size, or 3 inches; from 13 to 14 is 1 inch; draw a line from 14 to O. Now measure from 13 to 15, allowing 2 1/2 inches for width of collar. Then draw a parallel line from 15 to 19, and curve from 19 to G for the original shawl lapel. For the top collar draw a line from 14 to 22, and curve all around 14, 13, 15, 9, 19 and 23. This is the top collar. The under collar is from 9, 15, 13, 14, O and W, to 24. The top collar should be traced out before the front is cut out. and curve the side body before cutting out the pattern. This completes the dress sack with a sliawl collar. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 42 Lesson 13. 43 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER ETON COAT LESSON 14. The Eton is built on tlie same oxit-lines as all other garments, these garments are planned to natural waist length only. From A to B is 7" depth, from A to C is 1.5-1/3" natural waist length, now draw lines from A to W and from B to K, from C to V. Now make the box-lines the same as the others, from B to 6 is 2/3 rds. of si^e or 12 inches, and from C to El is also 13", draw, a line from E to G and up to top line, now divde B and G which makes H, frora, H to I is 1-1/1", draw a line from P to.Q, from Q to P ite 1/6 of size or 3", froml P to is also 1/G of size or 3", from- P to W is also 1/G of size or 3", and a seam allowed. From C to S is 2". draw a line from 8 to A, now connect line from the front neck point to t!ic back depht T. Measure the back shoulder from L to M and make the same from O to U, draw a line to F, now take half of I and G which makes N, from X to .5 or i'> is 3/4" on both sides, draw a straight line from down from N to make 7, from 7 to E to 10 is 2 1/3 incha;. Now connect lines from 5 to 10 and froml (I to E, the lenght of waist ?hal be made sliorter inbaek for this garment by a half inch as shown on diagram, as 8 to D — ■ — 10 to 4 E to 9 '. Now measure the bu?t, from T from T to S is 19 1/2" this is 39 bust measure, from S to E there ite 3 inches inehefei for seams, now make a stright line down, from E to V and Y, from '\' Id Y is 1/2 of size or 2 1/4 inches this makes a long waist in front Fronii ? to Z is ^/4 inches, this space is only raised, up in order to get the close tight fitting neck. l*"i'<)iu Z to 1 is one inch for button stand, from R to S iS also one inch, from Y to X is also one inch for button stand. , Now curve both lines from Z, K, V and Y, this line is the depht of front and 1 to X is 1 inch, the lines for button stand. Curve this the same as the inside iine from Z to Y. For hook and eye front use the depth of this front without t)ie b^itton stand and for buttoning purposes including the 1 incli space used outside line from 1 to X Xnw we begin to curve, froni A, Tj. to il, M to 5 also curve on both sides of the side Imdy tn -1 nnd (1 to 9. Xnw curve the arm-hole from G to 14, 14 to (i and round up to U. Frdin U to O is tlie front shoulder, the two shoulders should 1)0 should 1» curved alike, now cur\x' he neck from to Z and the book for buttoning from Z to 1. Xow curve the^ bottom of the waist from D to 4, liallow out a small amount as shown on diagram from 10 towards Y. We curve at Z a 1/3 inch up and finish up to X. This eoinplotes the Eton Coit witliont ■;iny ilart iu front, til is will make n loose finii lUid no gathering is required. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 44 Lesson 14. 45 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER ETON WITH IWKT IN FRONT. LESSON 15. This draft is made the same way as tlie first Eton, the front of this Eton is clianged so as to the dart. From V to X allow 3/4 of an inch, from V to Y is the same as) the first draft 2 1/2 inches, draw a line from R to X down to 14, now in or- der to get the dart in front, we divide the dhest F to E makes S, now measure tlie space from E to S and take samel from 14 to 2, divide from Z to S raakete 1, make the dart, from Z to 2 is 1 inch, from Z to 3 is 2 inches. Now draw lines 1 to 3, now me- asure from 1 to 2 and make the same from 1 to 15, now curve from 1 to 3 and ] to 15, also from 10 to 15 and from 2 to Y up to 14 as show diagram. Take special notice for the way of curving this dart, this is rounded out instead of shaping to the part of gore from 1 to 15 and from 1 to 2. Now curve carefully the front from W to E X and 14, from 2 to 14 curve up aB shown on diagram, this front has no button stand. This completes the Eton Coat with a dart in front. • ETON WITH A FEEiNCH SEAM. L E S N 1 G . The french seam eton is by all means drafted with the same out-liia-- 36 the first and second eton, this draft only changes with the french seams on front and back. To begin the frenctli seamis divide the back shoulder from Ij to M makes 10, now divide at the bottom from D to 4 makes 9, now draw a line somewhat round, this is the place for the french seams. Now begin tftlie front, divide from to IT makes 11, now connect a line from 11 -to the dart connection at 1. When cutting this pattern, allow seams on both jiavts from 11 to 1, 2, 3, both ]iartls otherwi.se all scamis are aJllowed. This completes the eton witli the french seams. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 46 Lesson 1 5 Lesson 16 47 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER Lesson 1 7 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 48 KTOX FU'dNT WITH A DAIM' (J\ TOl". /. !•: s s X 1 r . This |iall('i'ii is i ii( mit 'Vnin a Civiu-li seam eton, out siile ami iiKside front parts. 'W) lifuiii this, mai-k out ihc front part 1 from H. T, J, G, to H, \dien tlii>l'ioiit[)art is markril out. plai-o tlie iuside front, ])aTt 2 over the outside front \Yidii 3/i inch left over from J to C and N" to 0, this 3/4 of an inch is reduced a« we do not want any seams at tliis place. Now mark the other parts of the insid.e front;, from 1), V., all arouml the arm liole (o A, B, C, M, to D. N"ow finish the bottom, till in the break at J, curve from B to F, now allow scams at the dart, from D to \i is 3/8 of an inch, also from K to 1, now draw lines L to M anil K to M, this will complete the Eton front with the dart on top. B L () USE. L E S S ON IS. The l.ilouse is planned on the same foundation lines the other drafts, ivom A to B is 7 inches depth, from A to C 15 1/2 inches natural waist lenglit, cross lines from A to W, from B C now begin the box lines, from B to G ia 2/3rds of the size 13 inclies also C to E, now divide from B to G makes H, from H to I is l-J/4 inch. Xow raise a line from I to J, now measure from A to K 1/G of size or 3 inches, from K to L is always 1 inch, now cross a line from L crossing at J to M. II is the width of shoulder, the proper way to get M is by maldng a square line from L to J, M to meet at I, now begin to draft the line, from C to D is always 2 inches, now cross a line D to A, this completes the incline of the body. 'Xow begin the front, fron^ G to F is 1/6 of size or 3 inches, now raise a line from F to Q, from Q to F is 1/G of size, ateo from P to is 1/6 of size or 3 inches, now cross a line from to T, T is at the depth point in back this line gives the front shoulder, in order to hm-e the proper w'idth of shoulder in front, measure the back shoulder first from L to M and the same to U. Now draw a line from U to F for the front arm hole, now measure the bust, from T to S is half of bust 19-1/3 inches foi; 39 bust measurement, and from S to E is 3 inches for seams, and draw a line from W to R and XX Xow divide the space from 1 to G makes X. draw a line from X to 7, now take out both sides of X 3/4 of an inch at 5 and 6 at the waist line both sides of 7 take out 3 inches at 4 and 9, nowl cross lines from 5 to 4 and from 6 to 9 fter having all lines we shorten the length of waist as shown lui the diagram, from D to 8, from 8 to 4, from E to 9 is 1/2 inch up or shorten in waist length. Xow begin to curve from A to L, from L to M, from M tn .1 the hack arm hole, from 6 begins the front ami hole raise up a seam allowance I'lnui r, as showTi on the diagram and curve' to G and, U this is the front arm hole, rmm <) tn V make the same curve as from L to M, now curve the front neck froui () to W, the front for this garment shall be full, there is no shape only a straight line is needeii. now curve the side seam from 5 to 4 and 6 to 9. Xow curve the htittmn from S to 4 and from 9 to XX, the bottom curve of the front shall cirel'ully he followed as shown on the diagram, this completes the blouse. This diao-ram is the foundation for all lilouse ef?ect garments. 49 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER TUmC SKIRT. LESSON Id. This draft is not connected with any other skirt draft, this skirt is usual for all short garments cut to the natural waist line, or for tunict effect garments. Mea- surements are as followB : — 35 inch Waist, 42 inch Hip, 12 inch front length. To begin we draw a sjjuare line from A to D and from A to C, now measure from A to D half of waist 12-1/2 inclies, from D cross a line up to E. 6 inch- es and cross to F. ilark from A to B 6 inches for the liip line, foim A to C is full length of this skirt 12 inches, now take half of F to E makes K, from K to L is 1-1/2 inches, now curve from F to L iip to E. 'Xow follow with a curve from G to H parallel with the curve of F, L and E, now curve the, same way from C to I, now measure the space which is from A to F, now take half of tliis from B to G, now cross a line from F to G and C, C is full length, now measure half of hip from G to H, now cross a line from E to H and I, from E to I is the length in back. The skirt can be made to any length wanted. Cross a line from F against B to reach jST, this line is drawn after the draft is all eomulete, F B iN" is the front part of this ekirt and E H I is the back part of this skirt. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 50 51 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER HOW TO DRAFT A BUTTERFLY SLEEVE. L E S SOX 20. This draft is started the same way as all other drafts with the exception that tliis ilraft changed regaa-diug the biitterflj- sleeve at the side length. To begin we draw all lines as usual. A to B is 7 inches length depth. A to C is 15-1/2 inches natural waist length. Xow cross lines A, B, C, from B to , G and C to E. Now connect line from ft up towards IT. Divide B to 6 makes H. From H to I is 1-1/ 1th inches. Raise up a line from I to J. Now make from A to K 1/6 of the size, or 3 inches. From K to L is 1 inch alwaj-B. From C to S is 2 inches. Now comiect line from A. Now place the square from L against J to meet I and which will make M. il is the proper width of shoulder at the back. Now we go further to the front part, from G to F is l/6th of the size or 3 inches. From F to Q raise a line up from Q to P is l/6th of the size or 3 inches, the same as from P to 0. Now connect a line from to T which will give the foundation line for the front shoulder. Now measure from L to M which the back shoulder and place the same from to H for the front shoulder. Now measure from T to S 1/2 of bust which is 20 inches for 40 bust. From S to E is 3 inches for seams allowed. Now finish the front neck and make from P to W l/6th of the size and from W to 1 divide 3/Sths for the seam ; from 1 to Z is 3/4ths of an inch raised up. Now draw a line from Z against R down to 6. From V to X is 3 inches or l/6th of the size. Now begin to draw lines for the butterfly sleeve, divide between I and F which makes N ; draw- a straight line down from N to 7 and majce between N to G and N to 5 1/2 of an inch on both sides of 7. From 7 to 9 and from 7 to 4- is 2in ches. Now draw a line from 5 to 4 and from G ot 9. Now before we go any fur- ther with the butterfly sleeve, we shall decide about the deepness of armhole for tlie luitterflv sleeve. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 52 Lesson 20 Lesson 21 53 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER The deepness for the butterfly sleeve is to be decided between 6 and E. With this diagram is shown we have l/4th of depth armhole which is from G to 11. This is l/4th' of the side length which will make 2 l/8th inches. iXow cross a line from M to 2, froniil to 2 is 12 inches increased direct for the but- ierfly sleeve outside length. This length can be made in any amoimt wanted. Now cross a square line down from 2 to 3 ; this space betwees 2 and 3 cannot be decided unless the measurement is taken parallely from 12 up to the top line is about 8-1/2 inches. Now take this amount of 8-1/2 inches and measure from 2 to 3 and con- nect 3 to 12. This completes diagram of butterfly sleeve on the back. In order to begis the front of the butterfly sleeve, allow from T to 13, 3 inches in order to increase the width of butterfly sleeve in the front and connect 13 to U which is the front shoulder. Now correct from U towards 13 the same length as we have of M to 2 which is 12 inches, and place the same from U to 1-1. Now measure parallel again from 11 against the top line of front sleeve wliich is from U to T which will make abot 7-1/2 inches and place the same from T to 15. Now Connect 15 to 11 and curve from 15 to 14 which completes the front butterfly sleeve. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 54 HOW TO CUT OUT KIMOO SLEEVE TO MAKE IT ONE PIECE. LESSON 2 1. To cut out this butterfly sleeve, we first cut out the back, from A to D aud from D to 4. At D and 4 we have this garment somewhat ehortened at the waist as shown on the' diagram between 8 and 4, that is about 1/2 of an inch shorter. Now cut out further as from 4 to 13, 3, 2, J, L to A, this is the back. Now cut out the front. Begin at 0, Z, R, XX, from G to XX is 1 inch, X to 9 up to 11, from 11 to 15, from 15 to 14, from 14 to U up to 0, this is the front cut out. Now begin to place the two patterns together is order to make the one piece butterfly eleeve. Make all around first tlie back part from A, B, C, D, E, F, G, now make a parallel mark as shown on the diagram, from G to H, J out to F and place the front part to H, J which is the width of the shoulders. Further out as from J to K the front part must not meet a 3/4th of an inch parallel space as they cannot meet. ^Now mark further from K to L, M, N, 0, P up to H. Now correct the neck, from A, X is 1/2 of an inch lower to be cut out in order to gett his cut begin to curve from P to E and finish at X. The back of this draft is cut with fullness on the bottom between B and C, m order to take off fullness at the bottom where broken lino is, from C to S connect X, as from S to B is an increase of fulness, this completes tliis leason. 55 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER HOW TO MAKE A BUTTERFLY SLEEVE WITH ITXDEH ARM SLEEVE. LESSON 22. For this draft use the regular oue piece butterfly sleeve. See diagram. Kjis center of neck. Connect lines from K to G and from K to D, from F to N, G to 0, and from E to L, D to M is 1-1 /4th of an inch space. Now cut out this piece from N, F, 0, G and E, L to D M, and place them as shown next to diagram and meet them as shown, D, G, P, and mark all aroimd, N", 0, M, L. Allow a full Spuare from M, up to A as shown on the diagram and after allow 1/3 of an inch seam all around on this diagram and when this under arm piece Is cut out as 0, N, and M to L and this will give you the proper and comfortable action for a butterfly sleeve. HOW TO MAIvE A RAGLAN STYLE BUTTEEFLY SLEEVE. LESSON 23. Use the same one piece butterfly sleeve as before. Draw the same lines from K to G, and M to D. Now take 1/2 from K to G which makesM. From M to JST is 1 inch. Now divide from K to D which makes 0, and from to P is 1 inch. Cuiwe as shown on the diagram, from K, to G, from K to P and D. Now cut and allow seams of all parts, otherwise this diagram is complete. S. P. — For all drafts on this buttei-fly sleeve or changes for butterfly sleeves we have seams allowed at the diagram as usual. Wherever special seams are needed. I will mention to do so. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 56 Le$son 22 Lesson 23 57 THE P 11 A C T I C A L DESIGNER HOW TO CUT A YOKE. LESSON 24 The y,.Ke (ail be cnt for every garment. y This 3'oke is placed on a regular foundation of blonse pattern. In order to begins raise at the back from T to Z and 1 to E, 1 1/3 inches and cross a line from Z to R. Now divide from E to Z which makes D. From D to K is 3/4ths of an inch towards tlie arm liole. In order to make 3 scallops, on the whole width of liack. Now connect a scallop surve from T to J, ^nd from J raise up a curve up to E lost to the arm-hole ; this makes one scallop curve from K to J, and 1/3 of a curve at T which will make these three scallops when the back is opened. At the front, we raise irp from F to E and from V to R is 1-1/3 inches. CroteS a line from 'E to R and divide which makes S. From S to Q is 1 inch towards the front of the armhole and raise a line down from Q to W. Now make a curve from E to W and from AY to V. This ■nail also make 3 scallops when the front is opened, allow for seams on both parts, upper and under parts, on the front and back. Seams for this part shall be 1/3 of an inch on each side in case of an over lap seam, allow about 3/4 of, an inch especially fortlie raising part for such. This diagram is completed. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 58 llUW TO DKAFT A LONG HALF FITTING lULPLESS COAT WITH A SHALIi COLIvAR. L E S S N 2 . To begin, to draft use the regular foundation line, and measure for the depth, waist and hip. The full lenght of this garment is about 43 inches. The width of back for this garment is the same as usual 3/4 for seams, from M to N are also allowed as usual, the space at the waist line for the back from 12 to 16 is 1/G of size or 3 inches for size 36, and one more inch at the hip line which is 4 inches from 11 to 18; between 16 and 19 is 1/2 of an/ inch; from 18 to 17 to increase the side body is also 1/3 of an inch. Now draw straght lines down from IG against .18 down t 31 which is the bottom and from 19 to 17 down to 30. At the under arm from G to 9 and E to 5 is 3/4 of an inch. Inside. Cross the back this this space is thro«ai a line from 9 to 10 against E down to 2o which is the inside side body towards the back. From 4 to 3 is also 1/2 of an inoli, draw a line from G to 3 ; from 3 against 5 down to 33. The french , Beams crossing the shoulder are divided injialf which is at the back; from L to 'iST wliicli makes 36 and at the front shoulder divide from to U which is the regular width of the shoiilder built accord- ing to this back space or L to M. Tlie center of the front shoulder is 27. From 27 to 37 is 3/8 of an inch, and from 27 to 36 is also. This amounts to 3/4 of an inch allowed for the french seams which we allowed at the back from il to N. In order to continue the front part, divide the front for the dart line from F toY which makes X. Now allow on the waist line from 6 to 3/4 of an inch, and take the space from Y to X at the waist line; from 7 to 30, draw a stight lline down from X to 30 down to 29. Now divide from 30 to X whichmakes 28; connect 59 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 36 to 28 and draw i^arallel Hues from 37 to 38 and curve at from 38 to 28 as shown on the diagram on 31. The space between 30 and 31 all the way down to 29 and 32 is 3/-1 of an inch, the buttons stand for this garment; from Y to Z is 2 1/2 inches for single breasted top coat, the opening begins half between breast and waist line, tlie collar begins at the stand line which is from to S 1 inch. Draw a line from the opening at 2 up to S and W. From S to W is 1/Gth of the size which is 3 and ' 1/2 iucli imore for the seam. The width stands from W to 23 is also 1 inch. From W to 24 is 3 inches width of the collar, and curve parallel to Y lost to 2 in order to get a top collar, for this garment, follow the broken line from 23 to XX. The outside iis the under collar. Width tJie lapel connect at Y. The pocket for this garment is cut bias. Start it 1 inch below the waist line; from 31 to 34 the inside edge of the pocket which is 35 is about 1 1/2 inches for the edge of the side body and about half way of the hip space. The opening of such pockets is about 5 inches, the bottom for all long coats shall be finished round ; order to do so, measure the space always between the waist down to the bottom line which is about 25 inches, whien is on this diagram from C to 15. Connect this 25 inch to each seam) this is from 16 to 21 from 19 to 20 from 10 to 25 from 3 to 23 and in the front from 13 to 14 is 1-1/2 inclics. Xow curve the bottom as shown on the diagram all searas allawcd. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 60 Lessen 25 61 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER SHORT BOX COAT. LE S S N 26 . This coat is drafted on.; the same foundation lines as all other garments, the fit of this garmentis very loose, the garment consists of two j^arts which are the front and back. To begin, draw all lines as usual, A, B, C, D for depth, natural waist length now cross all lines, from B to G and from D to E is 2/3rds. of size or 13 inches, for this size H is half of B to G, from H to I is 1 1/4 inches, now make connections as usual, for the shoulder. Now take half of I and G makes X, both Bides of IST mark 3/4= of an inch as 2 and 3. Now connect |3 to E with a tsraight line, now/ work the front out-lines as alwa3-s, from T to V half of bust measure and from V to X is 3 inches for seamj allowance. Now cross a line down in front X to 1, now measure from 1 to o to hip, measure on 2/3rds or li-S/Sths inches for 43 hip measure, from 5 to 6 is 2 inches for fulness, now connect a line from 6 to 2,''this is the side for the front, the button stand for'tliis coat is 2 inches for a fly front but- ton. If regular buttoning front is wanted, allow only 1 1/2 inches as for a half fitting jacket. The bottom packet for 'this coat is the same as for any other coat. The top or breast pocket begins at 19, 19 is 1 inch ^rom F, from 19 to E is 4 inches or a 1/2 inch I less than 1/8 of the size, the slantness of this breast pocket can be made to taste, from V to E is 1 inch. Tlie width of the veil is also 1 inch from 19 to 20 or from E to' 21. Xow finish the bottom in front, from 1 to 8 is 2 inches, 8 to 7 is the bottom stand 2 inches, now raise from E to 4 a 1/2 inch and curve to D, now in order to finish front measure first the back side from 3 to 4, and take the same from 2 to 6 with a 1/4 inch longer. Now make a lost round curve from 6 to 8 and 7. The measurements for this coat are" the same as all others. Tliis completes THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 62 Lesson 26 63 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER DOUBLE BEKASTEJ) AUTOMOBILE COAT. LESSON 37. Tliis garment is drafteed on the same outlines as the hox coat. The measurements of this garment are also the same as all others. Tli/is djaft has has a button stand of 1 inches for a double breasted front, from Z to W is 3/4: of an inch for raising up the neck of a button up neck, from W to 10 is 4 inches button stand, also from Z to 9, from X to Y, from 7 to 8, from 9 to 10 is 1-1/3 inch, tills tlie raise up for the lap over, now begon to curve the front from W to 10, 9, V, S, 14 to 15, from, 14 to 15 is 2 inrhes. Now cut a dart at W down to 23, from W to 23 is 3 inches, take both sides of W about 1/8 of an inch lost to 23. The out-side breast pocket shall mea-sure 1/8 of the size or 4 1/3 inches for this 36 size, the lower pocket sliall measure 1/G of the size or 6 inches for this size. The width for flops are not a staaidard rule, it can bo made to any width or shape wanted. This garment can be cut with or without a seam in back, if no seams are wanted, take a seam off shown on back, this coat can be shaped on the side as it sho'wn as the shaping at the back, from 4 to 12 and the front from 5 to 13, the other parts of this garment is shaped as others. This completes the automolnic top coat. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 64 Lesson 27 65 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER BEGULAN TOP COAT. L E S S N ■> s . This garment is drafted on the same priiu-iples as the sliort box coat alsa by the ?an>e iiKarurements, to begin draw all lines as usmal at A. B. C. I>. depth natural waist length, hip length, N is the full length of coat, from P> lo Q is \2l/3]Kl€«. of size or 12 inches for 3G.' H is Mf or B and G, from H to I is 1 1/4 inches, draw a line up from I to J and lines for the slioulders as usual. Now divide I to G makes 4, now draw a line from 4 to E down to the bot- tom Ijne 11, this makes the side or back. Now measure from 4 to 5 1 1/2 inches, now complete the front shoulder as usual, also measure the bust and 3 inches allowed for seams to X, from X draw a straight line down to 1, this is the hip line. Now measure from 1 to E the hip measure and from II to 3 is 2 inches, now cross a line from 5 to 3 down to 13, in order to finish the bottom, take from 11 to 12 1 inch up and corve to N. Now measure from 4 to 13, and make the same from 5to 13, now allow the button stand, from X to Y and from 7 to 8 is 2 1/2 inches, now draw a line in front from Y to 8 and 14 to 15 Xow connect 15 to 13 with a curved line. The lapel of this garment is the same a.s other, from W to Z is 3 inchas, from ? Z to 10 is 2 1/2 inches, this space can be changed to any widthwanted, now connect 10 to Y w-itii a round line, the trace of the collar and lapel is showing the effect when fhc collar and lapel is finished. Now Ijegin the regular shoulders, first start at the back f i-om L to 4 draw a lime, now j)lace a square on the line halfway to meet the shoulder poont from 2 to M, now divide 2 and M makes G, now curve as shown on the diagram, from L to n down to tlio arm-hole at 4. Now begin the front shulder, from to 23 is 3/4 inf an inch, now draw a line from 23 to the arm-hole notch at 30. Xow square A line across from 24 to meet the shoulder i>oint at U, now divide from 24 to U makes 25. Now curve from 23 to 25 and 30, this completes the regular slioulder at the front and back, the regular pockets are as usual, thlis top is marked for a flap instead of a veil as shown on diagram. The side pocket is marked from the regular pocket in order to begin the side pocket draw a stright line down from F to 32, is at the hip line and 31 is the waist line, now diviide from 31 to 32 makes 16 whtre the regular pocket takes place. Now measure from 31 to 20 1-1/2 inch, also from 32 to27 1-1/2 inch, now draw a line from 26 to make the place for the side pocket, now mark the well as shown on diagram. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 66 Lesson 28. 67 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER J.WEKNESS TOP COAT. LESSON 29. 'I'liis garment is djaftoii on the ^^ame out-lines as tJie Ijo.x coat, to begin Ij make the changes of this garment, divide from I to G makes 4, now draw a line from -i to M, now begon tlie front, from 4 to 5 i? 1 1/3 inches, draw a line to 3 down to 13, now divide G to W makes 16, cross a line from 16 to 17. now curve the frost arm hole from V lo 17, also curve the back shoulder from L to J .Al down with a straight line to 1,2, 12 is 1 inch up from 11. Now make the front cape, make a round line from the front shoulder from U to C, now sweep from C! by the curved line which gives 6 in front, the front of tlie cape part begins at the neck from Z X 8 down to 6, from 7 to 8 is 3/1 of an inch, at the front shoulder at U and 2 make a lost dart to 18. The button stand for this garment is 2 inches only, asi there is no use for any more. This garment here showe a button up neck, from 20 to Z is 3/4 of an inch, from Z to 10 is 2 inches, now curve from to Z, 10, Y, 9, from 14 ti 15 is always 2 inches. This garment shall be cut of a full box coat, the garment has no sleeves as the arm-hole is not cut in tlie usual way, the arm-hole begins at U, and fisished at 17. The cape begins from 0, IT. 2, C around to 6 and up to 8, X, Z to 0. This completes the Inverness coat. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 68 Lesson 29 69 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER BUTTER - FLY SLEEVE CAPE. LESSON 3 0. This gariiieut is drafted on the out line or the box coat, the biitter-1'ly sleeve can be attached to any style of garment wanted, to begin this garment complete first the regular box coat, 'J'o begin the butter-fly sleeve, divide -G to E malces W, now cro.«s a line frmn \^' to 9 asd 10, now cross aline from the back shonlder, L M to Y, from ^I to Y measure any length for the sleeve, this len.2rth is 13 inches. Now place a square from M to Y and draw a line down from Y to 6, from Y tov6 is the ^yidth of sleeve, this width cannot be measured, unlesis the space is measured, from 9 up to the top line of sleeve M and Y, when having this measure from Y to 6. When^ having the 'width from Y to 6, cross a line from 6 to 9 as the 9 is the connection of the back, this completes the butter-fly sleeve on the backy To begin the butter-fly sleeve at the front, place a square to T and U ^^^^^ is the front shoulder line, from T square a line out to 17, now measure from 10 square way np to 23 and take the same amount from T to 11, now draw a line from 10 to 17 out to 18 in order to have the inside slee\'e length alike, measure from 9 to 6 and take same, from 10 to 18. Now allow from T to 7 inches as the front is too marrow and cross a line fromi U to 7 and 17, from U to 17 make the same as from M to Y, now curve from 17 to 18. Now curve the under arm-hole from 18, 17, 10 down to 3 and 13, this completes the front sleQve and from G to 9 down to 13 completes the back arm hole. Now curve the front sleexe on top from 17, 7. TJ to 0. The measurements for this garment is the same as usual. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 70 Lesson 30 71 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER OPERA CLOAK L E S S ON 3 1. This garaieut is drafted on the same measurements as all ttlier garments, in drafting this garment changes to a groat extent, this garment is only used for evening wear. To licgin draw all lines as usual, from A to B is 7 inches depth, from A to (' is 15 1/2 inches natural waist length, from C to D is 6 inches hip length and from A to E is .50 inches full length, now cross all lines from B to G and from D to ,T is 3/3rds. of size or 12 inches for a 3G size. Now take the width of back as usual, H jK half of- B and G, from H to I is 1 1/4 inches, now draw a line up to M and extend the shoulder as usual to N, from G to * is 1/6 of size or 3 inches for a 36 size. Now measure the space from I to * and make the same from * to 0, cross a line up fronii to Q, from Q to P is 1/6 of size or 3 inches, from P to R is 1/6 of size or 3 inches, from P to 3 is also 1/6 of size or 3 inche?, from 3 to 4 is 3/4 of an inch. For this garment the bust is not measured the same way as for other garments, from to T measure 1/4 of the size or 9 inches for a 36 size. Now cross a line down from T to U, from TJ to V is 1/2 of an inch, now cross a line in from 4 to T, Y down to Z and W, W is 2 inches below Z, from 4 to 6 and from W to S LS 4 inches button stand for a double breasted front, this front can be made any style front wanted. Now make the front shoulder, from R to F is 6 inches shoulder to the line, draw a lone from F to 0, now make the circel for the globe a m-hole by * from to 10 and I. The space is gathered into the arm-hole, from to F, N and I, when the shoulder is complete. The back of this cape can be made cither way, without a seam or with a seam in the back, if no seam in back is wanted use the straight line fi'om A to E, this cape shall be cut shapy as it is called tlip whopple style. To draft the Whipple back, draw out a line from the dc])th point 2 out to the waist point 0, this increases from E to 3, now curve at 2 as shomi on the diagram, now curve froim 3 to 8, this completes the npera cape. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 72 Lesson 3 I . 73 HALF FITTING GARMENT. THE SHOET TWO PIECE CAP^ L E S S N 3 2 . This cape is d rafted on the usual foundatiou lines and meaisureraents as follows:- Size 36 inches, bust 39 inolies, depth 7 inches and waist length 15 1/2 oiu-hcs, full length 2'i inches. To begin ilraw the outlines as usual, from A to B is the depth, from A to (' is natural waist length, from C to D is 6 inches length. Now cross all lines from B U^ C and from 1) to E is 3/3rds. of size or 12 inches. H is half of G and B, f oni H to I is 1 1/1 inches, now raise a line from I to J, from A to K os 1/6 of size or 3 inches, K to L is 1 inch, from G to P is 1/6 or 3 inches, draw a line from Q up, from Q to 1' is l/(i or .'i inches, from P to is also 1/6 of size or 3 inches, from P to K OS 1/C of size oi- 3 inches, with 3/8 for a seam allowed to 8; from S to 4 is 3/1 of an inch up and to 12 sliall measure 30 inches, to make tliis clearly understood, divide always the amount in half and 5 inches less for the back, and 5 inches more for the front. Now draw the back side lines from 13 againist or up to M. For the front also from 7 up to U, now curve the back at the shoulder from L lost with round curve at J down to M, from 13 to 14 is 1 incli, curve 14 to E. Now the front from 12 to 9, in order to be surve that tlie proper lengths for the side seam, measure the back from L, M, down to 14 and apply the same amount to the front from to U to 12, it shall be 1/4 of an inch longer. Now curve the neck part for the front and back. This completes the long shoulder seam cape. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 78 Lesson 33 79 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER SINGLE BREASTED HIDING COAT. L E S S ON 3 6. This garment fe drafted on the same princijjles as the first t ight fitting Jacl^et, les.-on 3. (Some measurements regarding the style of the garment are changed, this garment is used mostly for irding purposes, the measurements for this garment are as follows: 7 isches Depth, 39 bust. 15-1/3 inches natural waist n-u-ih 25 inches Waist, 17 1/2 inches fashionable waist longd^b. 43 inches Hip. 30 size or cliest. 40 inches full length. 18 incln's inside sleeve length. To begin we draw the out-lines the same as for the other Jackets. From A to B i's 7 inches depth, from A to C is 15 1/3 inches natural wa'st length, from A lo 1 1 is 17-1/2 inches fashionable waist length, from A to XX is 40 inches full length of coat, now measure from C to Z 6 inches for the regular liip line, Cross lines from A to AV, from B to 20, from C to 19, from D to 13, from Z to 11, from XX to 13, after having all lines crossed begin to make the bos as always, from B to G is 2/3rds. of size or 12 inches, from D to E is also the same, now draw a line from E G to the topliae, now divide B to G makes, H, from H to I is 1 1/4 inches, now raise line fro ml to J, this lise makes the width of back, from A to K is. 1/(3 of size or 3 inches, fromK to L is 1 inch, now connect a line from JI to I, now begin the front, from G to F is 1/6 or 3 inches . now draw a line from ^F to Q. from Q to P is also 1/6 or 3 inches, from P to is also 1/6 of size or 3 inclies, fi-om 1' to \V make also 1/6 or 3 inches for the front neck. Now make the THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 80 Lesson 36 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER iucliiiu I'l-oiu / til 1{ 1-12 inches or 1/12 of size, frmii I' to S is 3 inche.-, imw cros- lines from S l^iw, At) inches, Bust, 43 inches, Waist, 30 inches, Hip, 45 inches. Depth, 7 1/4 inches. Waist lcn,iitli, 1.-) 3/1 inches, Full length, Mil inches, Sleeve length, is inches, Begin to draft as usualy, from A to B is 7 1/4 inches, d.epth, from A to C ia 15 3/4 inclies waist length, from (' ti) I) is 6 inches hip space, from A to E is 30 inches full length of coat, now cross all lines as usual, now measure from B to G and from D to H 2/3rds. of size as always, cross a line from H to G up, now shown on diagram. Xnw sc*e to it that when the fold in front is made, the pocket space shall be opened from 1-1 to 13, also the under arm seam from 12 to 15 as shown on the diagi-am. Now allow the button stand, the button stand can be allowed also before the fold is made for the stout- ness, and straighten out as usual. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 100 ^" fSp* ' '^ A ) J ^,- 1 ^— — k- 1 ) Lesson 45 101 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER THE HOOD. L E .S 6' U A' 4 5 . To begiu the liood we make use of tlie front and back upper parts from a box eoal. 'l"o bei;iii we mark out the haek I'riim A, B, C, D. Now couneci the front shoulder seam at E, F, and mark out the neck from E to K for the front pni'l. 'riiis is shown on number 1. Now see Xo. •,'. Now divide the front neek IVoui K to E makp?l, from I to J is 1 inch. Now curve from J to the width of shoulder at F and D. Now before making a further curve we make the length of this hood from A to B is Ji inelus the same is fi-oni 1! to (i. now u^ake a square ijne ^ip from G to H. now spuare out the shoulder line I'roni H. ('. F and D, out to 11. now finish the curve from J, F and 1) down to G, from G to L is 1/3 of G to B. Now make the round curve from L to H, this part appears at the neck part when the collars is all complete. After completing this collar see No. 2. Wlien the collar is all cut out it is followed up as shown on the diagram, from A to B is the length in bnek, or fi-oni the neck dow-n on the back which makes a point at B, fold from L by B and H as sliown on the fold L to L, the connection of the neck part is from A, I, J, the curved line from J to H lays over the shoulder when 1 to A is buttoned to the neck ]iari (if this IkkiiI wIumi eulting tliis hood iihiee lo a loubl the bottom part of this liodd from 1! to h in order to h;ne it -eandess when folded from B to L, the seillUs cannot be seen. This eoni]i|etes the hocid. THESAIiJti; COLL.VK' LE SS .\ 4 (i . To begin the sailor collar mark out the frc)ut and back jiart of shirtwaist, we first mark out the back part wdiich is shown on the diagram, from A to B, C, D and K, frouii A to B will be the lengUi of the sailor collar in the back, this space is the length of the depth measure, this shall be the proper lengtli for the sailor collar, this length can also be changed in case of style wanted. Now connect the front part at lite shoulder aiul the back, th^ should', r at (! lo D antl F to E by placing these to each other lap over 3/8 of an inch one to another in order to have the right si'?e for neck. Before placing the front to this shoulder connection, mark the opening of the sailor collar from H to J, now cross a line from G to J for the sailor collar and allow from .1 to 1 1 inch to imike the collar 1 inch longer so as to ^dbuv all-seams ne- cessary, from 1 to M is ahvpys 1 inch, this is also for seams allowance to be used for seams on both sides of this collar, now cross a line from M to the width of shoulder at E and F. now curve the line down from J^ aiul V to cross line at the back from B to V to meet .\ whieh makes the width of the collar at the back, now curve as .shown on the diagram for the regular shape of the sailor collar from .\, B, X, E, F, M. 1. .'. up to G, D and A, this completes tlie Sailor Collar. Should we want a round effect sailor collar at the back part, curve as shown from F, E to B this is shown on the diagram with a traced line. This completes the sailor collar. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 102 (^' ^ Lesson 46 103 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER THE SHIELD F()K 'I'liE SAIl.oi; COLLAR L E S S X 4 T . To begin the shield we mark out tlie lu-ek part ti> front, the front part which is shown on the lines for the sailor collar from G, H to J and place it on another sheet of paper, mark all around from G, H. f to J, from I to J is always 1 inch, from J to X is also 1 inch, now increase from G to A, the width of the liaek part in order to get the right meastircmcnts we conned the back part of this u'l-uient and lap over for a full seams which is 3/-1: of an inch at G where the slioulder seam connects. Xow we use from A to X 3 inches and lost to F witli a straight line down to X as shown on diagram. This part as a rule is cut open which is showing on diagram Xo. ■^' on this page. DIAGRAM Xo. II. Diagram Xo. 2 iis most of tlie^time cut from draft without the back part con- nection. When diagram X^o. 3 is wanted simply draw the front part as shown before on the diagram Xo. 2, from G to F is 3 inches the same from D to E lost for the same width as diagram Xo. 1 at J, 1 and M, from H to I shall be 1 inch longer than tbc ojicning for the sailor collar. All these parts have seams allowed. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 104 Diagram 11. Diagram 1. Lesson 47—48 HALF FITTING GARMENT THE STANDING COLLAR. L E ,s' S y 4 8. To begin to draft, measure first the neck of the pattern, which is abotit ]4 inches, in full. Allow 1 inch for seams, making 1.5 inches. Now draw lines from A to B and A to C : from A to P. is 3 inches, the widthof the collar, and from A to C is 1.5 inches, the size of the collar; from C to D is also the \\idth, .'5 inches. Draw a line from D to B ; take half of A and C, making F; friim I' draw a line to E; from E to G is .S/4 inch. From B to H and D to I is alsci :!/! inch; from A to K and C to J is 1/2 inch. Now make all curves as shown on the diagram. THE LAP OVER COLLAR. /. E .S' ,S A 4 9. This collar is out in 1/3 seizes only, when measuring the neck wanted use 1/2 of measurement, now we increase to draft, now draw a line from A, B to C, from A to B is 1 inch, from B to D and E is also 1 inch, this means the space in back, now measure from E, F 1/2 of the size of the neck, divide this space which makes I, now make a curved line with a round stick from D toi F, from F to G is 1/2 of an inch, now curve the line from (i to p], tliis oouiplrtes the stand for this collar from from F to K is the same amoimt as the width of collar, now cross a line from K to J and divide which makes X, cross a line from F : up to L, now measure Now measure from B to C :5 iiirlu'- width of (nll,-ir, tlir same from I to H and'F to E to ]) which is tlie l)aek jiart and from F t" .1 wliii-h is tlie fornflJart of this collar. tin- widtli of cdlhir frnm F to L. now iiiakr itc curves as sIkwh at E at the back part of neck and shape up to C, curve from tlio imint from J to Ij to F as shown on the diagram, this collar has all seams allowed. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 106 Lesson 49 Lesson 50 THE STORM CULLAi;. L E ^' ti)II;ir i.< ini/reased the same way a- tlir laji over collar, this collar cliaiiir- es on the oxer liuilt width, when making line on the liottom which is from D to ,N we first make frcjni R to C the regular width of collar which is 3 inches and draw a line from D against C to make N in order to have the right over built or big spring which is needed in order to fit this collar perfectly. Xow cross the width fi-om I to H and from F to J and F to L, the width of this collar shall be about "i inches, from F to 1\ i~ always the uame as the width of collar as to connect a line to I in order to meet L as usual, when all these outlines are complete as usual, stand from D, E and F to (i shall be over built with a 1/2 inch height. Tlii- collar shall be cut in -t gores, to be made at H and Q. H is the top part of the collar from H to O and from H to F we allow 3/1 cd" an inch on both sides on the bottom at Q on both j-ides of S and K, we allow 1/4 of an inch, now draw lines from P, to I, R, from to X to S, now cur\e as shown on diagram, P, I. P. 0, X, S, the back part from E, D. C to X, the front from J, L. F to G, when cutting out this collar trace the back part from N. M, M, O. X, S, E, D, C to X, this is the back part of the front from P, I. R, V. L. J to P. when this collar is complete, allow peamn at I', 1 In \\. 0, X to S, 107 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER Lesson 5 I Lesson 52 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER |08 THK AIT()M()1',I1J-: COLl.Ai; LEtlecve from ."i to H and P, not S to iX and P. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER — «A Lesson 54 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER THE SI>EK\K WITH SOME FCEIvXESS. LESSON 55 This sleeve begins the same wny at- the first sleeve, to begin measure from A to J3 1/3 of size or G int-lies lor a 36 size, from B to D is 18 inches for inside sleeve length, erosB all lines from A to F, from B to S, from E to H, from D to Q, now measure from A to F 2/3 ; of the size or 13 inches for a 3G size, the same amount place irom I) to <.,), now draw a line from F to Q, from 'G to V is 1 1/2 inches, C i~ half of A and B, now cross a line from C Y, take half of C and V makes T. now square a line down from T to make U, half of T and U ife the star (*) from G tn S and to Wis a 1/2 inch both sides, from 11 to X is 1 inch tn'r the iii-idc elbow cui-ve . now divide the bottom divide the bottom line from D to 1 makes J, draw a line down to K, from J to K is 2 inches, now cross a line from K against I out to P. From I to is 1 inch, from U to P is alto 1 inch, this is the bottom of the top sleeve, from E to X is 3 1/2 inches, from X to ^l is 3 inches this is the outside elbow, from K to L is 3 inchw-, now cross line- from 1\ to X and up to C, this is the outside of the to]) sleeve, now cross linc< from L to ^1 u[) to T, this is the outisjde of the inside sieve. Xow allow from I^ to K a 1/3 inch also from to Q a 1/3 inch, and cross a line from 1\ to (), now cross lines for the inside elbow from Q to N and P to X, also from W to X and S to X, now curve the top sleeve by the 'star (*) from V to C, now shape from V to S d.own to the inside elbow X', also curve the under sleeve at the arm-hole from T to W as shown in the diagram. To cut out this sleeve place another sheet of paper under- neat the draft and cut all around tlie top sleeve, take for the bottom jiart of tlie un- sleeve at U and (,), aftei- ba\ iiig cnt out the top sleeve, u.se the linttum |)allern as the to]) sleeve, and cut dut from llic original draft the under sleeve. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 112 LESSON 55 113 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 56. A SLEEVE WITH ALL SIZES OF FULLNESS. For this sleeve we shall use the sleeve No. 2. This is a sleeve with some fullness. To begin this, cut out the top sleeve only, and mark out on another sheet of paper as shown from A, E, C, F, D, to B. Now draw all lines out from C These spaces are 1 inch from each other, H, I, J, E, G. Make top curves from the front part of sleeve, beginning at F, to meet all spaces from E, G, H, I, J. These curves are connected to the lines of every size of fullness wanted. Now any size of fullness can be taken oflf of this diagram. Suppose we want a sleeve with the fullness to H. trace all around from A, E H down to C B and up to A. This is the outline of tracing of either sizes of sleeve wanted. The fullness of the sleeve shall only be increased on a top sleeve ; the under sleeve remains as usual. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 114 Lesson 57 OXE T'lECK SLEEVE WITH FLTjLXESS OX THE IJOTTo.M LESSoy 5: To begin this sleeve use a cut-out initteiu '>f ilic lirst sleeve, mark out first the top sieve from A to J, C, X, D, B to A. Now connect the under sleeve at C, from (* to E and from X to F widili ;! I cH" an inch, N' and P is the elbow. Now mark out the under sleeve all around, as shown on the diagram, from E to F. I. H, G, L and E. Xow curve the bottom of the sleeve from B to D, I and H, the bottom of this sleeve gives a blouse effect cuff, now curve the top of the sleeve, from A to K. ^I to U, from J to K is 1 inch de- creased from the top sleeve, and from L to !\1 i* 1 inch increased for the Tinder sleeve. This makes the one piece sleeve width fullness on the liottiiiii or the blouse sleeve. 115 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER Lesson 58 ONE PIECE sjj':i':vii wnii i-tllness ox tiik toi' LESSON 58 To begin tliis sleeve make the lirsl slee\e and mark out the top sleeve first from A to B, D, C, i, J. to A, now ((iimect the under sleeve at the bottom F to D and ill as sIkiwji on the diagram, now mark all aroimd the under sleeve to G and H down to F. Wlicii the Iroth sleeves are marked out, begin to make the top curve, from A in T\. 1, Tj t(i (j. from J to K is 1 inch and from H to L is also 1 inch, from J lo Iv decrease the fullness of the top sleeve and from H to L increase the fullness of the under sleeve, to cut begin from A to K. I, L, G, E, F, D, B and A, this completes the one piece slee\-e with fullness on top. ONE PIEOH r)l!ESS SLEEVE. LESSON 59. To liegin this sleevi out the to]-> sleeve on a shoe B. S to A, Now connect the mule first i-ul ihc ()i'iL:inal tight-fitting sleeve, and mark paper as -;ho\\ 11 nil th<> diagi'am, from A, V, W, L), „, ,_, ,„ .., _,,„,, , ..ic under sleeve tn tlie toji sleeve on the top part at C and E, from C to E and from W to E is :i/ luf an inch ispaee lape over, when the muler sleeve is connected mark all around from E, C, G, H, L E to E. Now mark the connection. Curve on the top from A, 1\, M, to G, ^lien curv- THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 116 Lesson 59 ing make cliang-es as follows, ivmn .^ to K is 1 inch decTfasod I'ur fuliu-^s ul the top sleeve, and from L to Isl is 1 inch encrcased for the under sleeve, this com- pletes the curve for the sleeve on top, now look over carefully the sleeves after the top and under sleeves are connected as tlie sleeve is now marked out, it is useful witii a dai't on the outside elbow as shown from I) to X and from I to X. For a tight fitting one piece sleeve, cross a line from the bottom of the inside sleeve lengths from B to H, now cross a line from E to F down to N and measure the size of cuff both sides of F, the cuff shall measure 1/4 of the size or 9 inches for a 3KK\-K. Thi.- sleeve shall l)e earned out IVnm, a verv I'lill top sleeve, to begin tliif sleeve we first prepare a very large top sleeve as shown on diagram. How to cnt a slee\e with all sizes of fullness. For this sleeve take the largest sleeve from diagram mentioned, tliis top sleeve shall be curved at the outside from C to D as shown on the diagram, now mark the spaces on top of the top sleeve where small darts shall take place as shown on diagram, from A, F, G, H, I, J. & E, The deepness nr thci.se darts shall be 3 inches only amount taken out for these darts shall be considered as to the size of the arm - hole wanted. I'le very careful to raise up the small amount on bothe sides of the dart as shown on the diagram. This; completes the sleeve witli the darts on to]!. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER Lesson 62 Lesson 61 119 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER THE EAGLAX SLEEVE. LESSON 61. To begin the ragian sleeve we first complete the sleeve number 1. Xow measure the space from A to B, take half of this makes W, now draw a Hue up fromW to D and E, f rom W to D place the width of the shoulder of the jacket for this sizes, from D to E is 3/4 of an inch, from E to F is also 3/4: of an inch. Now connect lines from E to C and from F to V and curve the top sleeve . as shown on the diagram. A EAGLAN SLEEVE WITH A DAET IN SHOULDEES. LESSON G2. The beginning of this sleeve is the same as the first raglan sleeve witli the ex- ception that this has dart placed at the center line which is ivom W to D. In order to begin make from D to F and from D to E 3/4 ths of an inch and curve lines lost to W. Now allow from E to li and from F to G 3/4tlis of an inch and draw line from G to V and from H to C, curve as shown on the diagram. This completes the Eegular sleeve with a dart in the shoulders, otherwise, we ha\e all seams allowed to these sleeves. For a seam over the top sleeve, split Lesson 62 from D, W down to the bottom of the top sleeve half width of the cuff and allow for this seam. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 120 SKIRTS 121 THE P 1! A C T i (J A L D E tj 1 U N E R LE>'-e\ri-y gored skirts. Now tin- width for the front gores shall be eandully deeideil bdore commencing to draft the outlines for skirts as. the from gore for all skirts shall be 1/2 of the width of either gore^ the width for the front gores are a< follow^ :- five gore skirts .-hall be. frmu '.'-t/'i iuehes, Se\en gore skirt shall be, froui ■.;-l 4 iiuhess- Eiiie gore skirt, shall be. front •.' iiKties, Eleven gore skirt, shall be, frinii. I -f/a inches, TJiirtecn gore skirt, shall be, front, 1-3/8 inches, Fifteen gore skirt, shall be, front, 1-1/4 inches, Seventeen gore skii-t, shall be, front, 1-1/8 inches, Nineteen gore skirt, shall Ih'. front. 1 inch. The 19 gore skin -hall be the very last and most to be cut in gores, for any- more gores tlian i;i tb.' pleating niu.-t lie made. Now we commence to draft, the measurements for this sicirt are as follows :- Waist ■!:> inehe-. Hi], 43 inches. Front length 41 inches, Siile length 13 inches. Back length 45 inches. 'I'o bruin to draft draw a lino from A to B and A to D, fi-nm A to C is ■ ;j id' :>.o iiu he> for waist measurement, from C to D is 3 iiiebes tor the hip increase, now ,(|uare a line up from I) to E. from!) to E is ii iiirbc-. now cross aline fniniE to.\, now take 1 /•.' of A to E makes J I, from 11 tod is 1 inch, now ero-s fr .V J to E. this curve is the natural line for the waist, now mea-^ure from A to (4 and from E to F (i inches and cross a line from Ci to F, now mea-uic 1/5 of the hip from G to F which is 43 inche-s hip measurement or t ■? or this •.'l-l/'3 inches, now" cross a line from E against F down to Ta now measiwe the length in front, from A to F> is H inches, and fi'oni V. to I. is the back Icni^tb ITi incbi's. For futher insli'nclions ■:ee the ne\t li'sscn. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 122 -®B LESSON 63. 123 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 64. FIVE-GORE SKIRT. To begin lesson No. "2 we shall decide on how many gores this skirt shall be cut. Xow suppose yon want a 5-gore skirt. Make the front suitable for a .3-gore skirt, which is 2 1/2 inches on the top waist line from A to I ; on the bottom line fr( in B to K is the double amount of A to I. This shall always be kept in mind — that the bottom of the front should measure twice as much as the top of the front. Xi..\v n:easure the hip length from J to M and make the bottom circle from 11, K, Z\l to L ; now divide on waist line from I to E for a side dart and seam, which makes this skirt a 5-gore ; also divide the bottom curve from K to L, making AI ; now cross a line from J to M, which completes the seam line at the side. Com- mence to work on the waist line for proper measurements. At I take 1/8 inch on both sides and curve down to the hip line ; after being complete with the curve at the front, measure over the waist, from A, I, J to E ; this will amount to IG 1/2 inches. Now take of¥ 12 1/2 inches for a 25 waist measurement from 16 1/2 inches leaves the amount over of -i inches, which we do not want. Divide this amount, of -1 inches, on both sides of J, from J to O and from J to N, ; curve from O to X and N to \' down to the hip line. Be careful to make this curve lost right below the hip line with the round curve on the straight line ; before cutting out this draft raise a small amount up at O and X so as to straighten out the curve at the waist line when the s) to K is 4-1/2 inches tliis conqih'tes the front. Xdw Pleasure from A to (_' 1/2 of the waist, from (' toD ■'! inches, fnini D In K (1 Inches, these utiine- are the same as the heginning, now mal gore skirt enmnieiice the front suit-able for a 1) gore \\i;iel) IS 2 iiielies, from A to 1 is 2 inches, from B to Iv is 4 inelies now cross a line from I to K which completes the front of the skirt, now measure the hip G inches below the waist as usual, curve the iusido on top from A to E thi- is always 1 inch below the straight line, now make the back length line, frnm K down to L, always measure the hip first before yon cut this line in order to meet E. F, L. Xow divide from this 9 gore skirt, from I to E in four sections also the same from K to L, from I to is 1 section, from to J is the 'ind section, from J to X i3 tlie ;5rd sccti(m, from X to E is the 4th section on tli-' waist line. Xow make the same sections on the bottom line from K to il, from ^I to (^. from Q to Y, from. Y to L, now cross lines from O to M, from (i to <^). from X to Y and from E to L is the back length, this completes the se<-ti()ns of gores for the 9 gored skirt. Xow measure over the waist as usual and take nut the amount which is over built at O, from () to S from to T at Gr both sides to \' and W at both sides of X, R and P, now make these curves lost to the hip line as usual, before taking this amount out. In- careful to measure over tlie wai-^t in c/rder to balance the waist measurement and raif the side saddle ridins" skirt. LESSON 77. SIDE-SADDLE RIDIXG SKIRT.— BACK PAR' Begin new outlines for the back part; the back part of this skirt shall he drafted separately and shall be drafted in the opposite way from the front part. This draft begins on the other edge of paper, and when drafting the outlines draw all lines towards you, instead of drafting the front from you to- wards the other side or edge of the paper. Xow begin the outlines from A to V> and A to K; from A to I is half of waist, and allows 3 inches more, which amounts to 13 1/2 inches; from A to G and from I to J is 2 inches; from G to Y is 6 inches ; from Y to M is 1 1/2 inches ; from Y to X is G inches ; from M to B is 43 inches, side length ; cross all outlines, as shown on the diagram, from M to M, which is 1 inch: from H to O is R 1/4 inches, or one-fourth of the waist measurement; from O raise a line up to P; from P to E is 2.5 inches waist and allow G more inches. This amounts to 31 inches. From I to K is 4- 1/2 inches: from X to Q is IS inches: cross lines from P to O, O to J, 1 to K, and K to E. Measure from E to X one-fourth of hip. or 10 :)/4 inches ; THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER !46 Lesson 76 147 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER cross a line from N to C: frimi X to D, which is 3 inches; from D to F is 5 3/S inches, or one-eighth of hi]) measure. Square a line out by K and E, and allow IS inches; from C to S is 6 inches; cross a line from F to S ; meas- ure from F to T, the same length as on the front part from K to M. In order that these two lengths shall be the same; curve as shown on the diagram. From H lost to B ; from H to P ; from P to ; from Q to J : from J to K ; from K to E ; from E to R. from R to F and F to T ; from T to B, be very careful to have the side seams of the front and liack alike in length, as these two parts are to be connected to each other. This completes the back of the side-saddle skirt. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER \48 LESSON 78. |;1.()().M1.;rS.— I'ROXT I'ART. 'I his garment tlilTcrs in all cases frcm the ullier garments. Tlie meas- ures II 1 this garment are taken diii'erently from other garments. The meas- urements are as follows: Ontsidc length, 43 inches; raised measurement, K) inches; waist measurement, 2 1 inches; hip, I'? inches; knee, 1.'! inches. ()utside length measurement is taken tiom the natural waist line down Ic the hittom. The raise measurement is taken frcm the waist line opposite the full length of hip, which is about 10 inches. The waist and hip is taken as usual. Knee measurements should he taken tight around the knee. To draft draw lines for the front part of this garment, from A to R and from A to D; from A to B is 10 inches, raised, and from A to D is 42 inches outside length. Divide from B to D making Y ; raised 2 inches up from Y makes C ; then take one-third of C to D, which makes E ; C is the natural' knee line, and E is the changed knee line for the fullness or lap over which this garment needs. Draw all lines across and name all lines in order to know their usefulness. The line at .\ is the waist line; the line at B is the hip line; the line at C is the natural knee line, at E the increased knee line; the line at the liottom, D, is not used for this. Begin to work on the hip line, as this garment is mostly curved by the hip measurement. From B tci H is 42 inches, hip measurement, on halves, or lo 1/2 inches; cross a line np H to R ; from H to I is one-eighth of hip measurement, or 2 1/2 inches. Measnre from R to O one-half of waist measurement, or 6 inches; from O to P is 2 inches ; from P to O is 1/2 inch, from R to X is also 1/2 inch ; cross a line from X to Q. Divide B and I, making S; measure from B to S and place the same amount from E to W on the bottom line ; cross a line from \V up to L; this is the center line of the front part. Measure on the bottom line E on both sides of \\', on bottom halves or both of ^^' '•> and (! shall Ije one- eighth of the bottom, which is 13 inches, or one-half wa}-. This will amount to 6 1/2 inches. .Mlow i>n both sides from 5 to V 1 inch; from (i to (i 1 inch for fullness. Measure from I inside to V 3/4 of an inch and cross a line dow n to T. Allow from B to U 1 inch. Begin to work the crutch of the front part, measuring from H to I and place the same from H to J ; cross a line out to the side line ; now divide J and I making M ; cross from M to H wath a short line; this line will be the notch in front. From M to N is 1/2 inch. Begin to curve from J and X to I ; from I to T and from T to F ; this com- pletes the inside part of the front. Curve the outside part from (J to [' . and di wn ti' anie as fi)r the bloomers, except measurements arc taken from the knee, Ijelow which are the calf and ankle measurements. The measurements fur this garmcnL are as follows : Outside length, 42 inches: hip, 43 inches; raise, 10 inches ; knee, 13 inches ; waist, 24 inches; t^'alf, l."i inches; ankle, 12 inches. The knee measurement for this should l)e taken tight. The calf and ankle measurement is also taken close. The upper part of this garment l:)e- gins the same way. The original knee line at E is one-third of C to D; from E to F is one-third, or the same amount as from C to E. Divide between E and D, making G. Be careful to work all measurements as men- tioned that go below the knee. Work all measurements on (|uarters; at V both sides of 1 and 3 make one-eighth of measurement, wdnich makes onc- fourth of the knee, or (i 1/2 inches; now work the calf measurements on Jioth sides of W, which are 3 and 4, making one-eighth of 15 on each side or 7 1/3 inches. Measure the same on both sides of T, 5 and 0, which is 12 inche.s ankle, or 6 inches both sides ; all lines are made on sides. Connect from the top lines as usual ; from U to O with a curved line ; from 2 to 4 and from 4 to 6 ; from I to 1 ; from 1 to 3, and from 3 to 5 ; curve between 5 and fi as shwn on diagram. Be careful to follow all curves as shown on diagram. Be careful to follow all curves as shown on the front part. This completes the front part of the riding breeches. LESSON 81. RIDING BREECHES.— BACK PART. To begin the liack part mark out the frrmt and place it on another slieet of paper and mark across all the lines lor waist, hip, knee, calf and bottom line, which is the ankle part ; also cross the centre line from L to K up, down to NN ; from K to L is 4 1/2 inches ; this top part is followed the same way as the bloomers. From L to .A is one-half of waist, or 6 inches ; from A to P is 3 inches ; cross a line from P to K as usual and make the dart one-half of this space, which is O ; both sides of O, \' and W is 1 inch lost to T ; T is 4 inches below O ; from B to U, 2 inches for seams ; from I to H is one-sixteenth of hip measurement, and from H to M is always 1 inch. Allow for seams all around; from 1 to A^ is 1 inch; from 3 to F is 151 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER Le Lesson 80 1 inch, from 5 to D is also 1 inch; from 2 to C is 1 inch; from 4 to E is 1 inch; from 6 to G is alsi;i 1 inch. Now curve the bottom of the pants from ( r to D as shown on diagram ; allow from the knee down to the bottom 1 inch for button stand ; from C to Z and from G to X curve carefully the inside line for the back part. P.e careful to follciw the curves as shown on this diagram. Seams are all allowed fiu" the front and back part of this garment. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 152 LESSON 82. PAXTAT.OOXS.— 1"R()\T \'.\\m V makes C wdiich give.-; the knee line. Cross all lines. Begin to work the hip measurement from 1) to H, which is 42 inches hip measurement on hal\-es; from 11 to 1 is -12 inches hip measurement on the eighths; cross a line up from H to K; measure the space between Tl and 1 and place the same from H to J and cross' a line as shown frnm J tn X. Xow measure from K ti: O 24 inches waist measurement on hal\es: from () to I' is 2 inches; from P to O is 1/2 inch down; cross a line fn.m R, (J lost tn .X; divide fnui I to P.. making S. Measure the space between P) and .^ and |ilace the same frtjm I^ to W. Xow cross a line up from W up to the top line to meet L ; measure the bottom on both sides iif \\' ; this space should measure 16 inches; from W to -'i is 4 inches, so the width from .S to 4 amounts to S inches; cross a line from 4 to P> to connect with the cur^•e at X; from i to I! is 3/4 of an inch; now cross a line from G to :! ; curve from I hist to the knee line up to 1. This completes the inside part of this front. Cross a line from I to J, which makes M; from M to H cross a line; from M to .X is 1/2 of an inch; curve from R, J, X to I; now hollow out the bottom of the front pants at W from 4 to 3. To cut out this front part of the pants begin at Q, V, B, 2 and 4 to o. and from O to f^. R. J. X, 1. 1, .'i and tJ. This completes the front part of the pantaloons. LESSON 83. PAXTALOONS— P.ACK PART. To Ijegin this part of the garment we always cut out the front part first and place it on another sheet of paper. Cross all outlines from the waist, hi|), knee and bottom, also the centre line from Iv down to W. Measure from L to Iv, which is 4 inches; measure the waist iov the back part from L to ,A, which is 24 inches on hah-es ; from A to P allow ;5 inches for seams; fr(.;m P to K cross a line and divide, which makes C) ; take out both sides of O, 1 inch on either side, which makes \' and ^^' ; from O to T is 4 inches deep ; shape from V and W lost to T; from B to U allow 2 inches for seams; from 2 to 3 allow 1 inch for seams ; from 4 to 3 allow 1 inch for seams. Measure the inside part for the under pants ; from O to PI is one-sixteenth of hip measurement, and from H to Tvl is 1 inch ; cross a line from K to J. which is the strong part of the crutch, and curve as shown on the diagram from K, J. I to M ; from 1 to Y is 1 inch for seams allowed; same from 3 to F ; now ciu've as shown the small amount from P to P' all the wav down to E; shape 153 THE P E A C T 1 C A L DESIGNEE Lesson 83 Lesson 82 Ijotli sides of the under pants on the bottom Hne as shown at E and F. This curving shall be started about 6 inches up at E and F; the amount of increase at E and F shall be about 1/4 of an inch. Curving will give the under part of the pants the proper shape for this garment when made up. This com- pletes the garment with all seams all<;iwed. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 154 LESSON 84. THE STOUT SKIkT. To begin the stout skirt be very careful to sec the ditfcrcnce in meas- urements between the waist and the hip, and also the difference in lens^th between the front and back, as the stout form L;reatly changes in measure- ment. The waist for stout is very large, according to the hip, as the hip measurements are very small. The measurements for this skirt are as fol- lows: Waist, 30 inches; hip. -1.') inches; front length. 11 inches; side length, -111 inches; back length, .'!9 inches. To draft, draw a line from A to C and frum A to II ; from A to l'> is one-half of waist measurement ; from B to C is ;J inches ; from C to D is ;5 inches, only, instead of having C inches from C to D, from A to E is the balance amount between C and 1), which is :! inches, in order to comjilete the stout- ness in front for this skirt. Take one-half of A and E. making (i, from G to I' raise up 1 inch; cross lines from E to F and F tn 1); curve as shown on diagram; E and F to D; this is the waist line for this skirt; making the length for this skirt, E to H, 41 inches front length. We make the hip line, tn m A tci K, 6 inches, and from D to M is also G inches, for hip space. Now make a curved line, K to M. and measure one-half of the hip from K to M down to R and measure from D to R, 39 inches for the back length. Begin the front from E to I, allowing 3 inches ; from H to J. 6 inches ; from I to J cross a line for the front. Begin to curve at I both sides ; from I to O is 1/3 inch ; from I to O is also 1/2 inch ; now make curves lost to V. To make this a 5-gore skirt we di\-ide from O to D, making N, and from J to R, makes P G and from F to Fl (J inches; draw a line from (i t (\% 16i/i 87s 8% THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER I60 Misses' Sizes PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS FOR MISSES' GARMENTS. Size. Breast. Bust. Waist. Hip. Depth. Natural Waist Length. Inside Sleeve Length. Width of Back. Collar. 14 32 3.3 23 39 6% 14% 161/2 63/4 6 16 34: 37 23 40 6% 1.5 17 7 614 18 36 39 24 41 6% 151/4 171/0 71/4 6I/0 The width of back and collar measurements on this table is showinc the half wav onlv, with seams included. 161 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 88. MISSES' SIXTEEN SIZE FRENCH SEAM TIGHT-FITTIXG GARMENT. The outlines for the misses' sizes are the same as the 36, nnlv the numbers are changed regarding this size. The measurements for this size are as follows : Size 16 inches. Hip -iO inches. Chest 34 inches. Depth 6i 4 inches. Bust 37 inches. Natural waist length... 15 inches. Waist 23 inches. Inside sleeve length. .. .17 inches. To draft, draw a line from A to W and from A to D ; from A to B is 6 V2 inches in depth, and from C to A is 15 inches natural waist length; from C to D is one-third of size for the hip length, or 5 3/4 inches ; draw all lines from A to W, B to X, C to 1, D to XX; then measure from B to G and D to E two-thirds of chest measurement, which is 34, or 11 3/8 inches ; cross a line up from E to G up to the top line ; then take one-half of B to G, which makes H ; from H to I is 1 1/4 inches. Draw a line up from I tQ J ; from A to K is one-sixth of size from K to L, which is 1 inch always ; cross a line from L against J to make N. then square a line to meet I ; from G to F is one-sixth of the size ; from O to R is one-sixth of size ; from R to O is one-sixth of the size ; from R to \\' is one-sixth of the size, from D to 36 is one-twelfth of the size, or 1 1/3 inches : from C to DX is 1 7/S inches; cross a line from 36 to DX, and from DX up to A; cross a line for the front shoulder from C) to T ; T is at the depth back point. Meas- ure first the front shoulder before measuring the back shoulder from L to N, and place the same amount from O to U ; from F to FX is one-twelfth of size ; cross a line for the front armhole from U to FX. Allow for a seam from N to M 3/4 inch all the way down the back line. Divide from L to M. making 25, where the French seam will be placed. Now we begin to work the bottom from 36 to 7, which is one-sixth of the size, or 3 3/4 inches. From D'X to 5 is 1 inch less, or 1 3/4 inches ; cross a line from 7 to 5 ; from 5 to 35 ; from 10 to 7 is 3/4 inch ; from 5 to 6 is 1 inch ; cross a line from 10 to 6 and from 6 to 25 ; cross a line somewhat round to meet the straight line at the breast line; from G to 14 and from E to 13 is 3/4 inch; cross a line from 14 to 13; 15 is at the waist line; take one-half of G and 15, making 8; divide also from H to 14, makes 9 ; 9 to 35 is 1 inch up ; cross a line down from 35, 9, 8 to 37; take out on both sides of 8 to 11 and 13, 3/4 inch, which is decreased on the waist line on both sides of 37 to 38 and 29 3/4 inch; cross lines from 11 to 29; from 13 to 28; from 11 up to 9 and 13 up to 9; from 15 to 16 is 1 inch; from 14 towards the front take out 1/4 inch; cross a line down to Ki, as shown on diagram; from E to 31 is 1 inch; from 13 to 30 is also 1 inch; cross lines from 15 to 30, and from 16 to 31 ; measure one-half of bust from T to V, which is 37 ; from V to X allow 3 inches for seams ; now square a line down from X to 23; from Z to 1 is one-twelfth of size; from Z to 3 is one-eighth of size; cross a line from \V to X ; from X to 1 down to 4 ; cross a line from 16 to i to 3 for the long waist line ; begin to make the dart in front, then divide across the chest from F to X, making 33 ; measure from X to 33 and apply the same amount from 3 to 17; then take one-half of 17 and 33, making 37; from 17 to 18 is 1 inch ; from 31 to 33 is 1 1/4 inches ; from 17 to 19 is 3 inches ; mark a line out from 18 to 30 and cross a straight line down from 30 to 34. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 162 The space between 20 and 34 shall measure the same, and from 18 to 22 ; cross lines from 37, 18 to 22, and from 3; to 19, and 20 down to 24; begin to make the French seam in front ; divide the front shoulder from O to U, making 32. Allow both sides of 32, 33 and 34, 3/8 inch ; draw a line from 33 to 37, then draw a line from 34 to 38. following the line from 33 to 37 ; curve the line at 38 lost to 37, 19 and 20 down to 24, as shown on the diagram ; also curve from 37, 18 to 22. Now begin to curve the complete outlines, from A to L ; from L to M ; from M to 35 raise a seam up to 35 for the side body ; curve to G, 14, X and F up to U ; curve also the front shoulder from U to O and the front neck part from O to W down to X ; curve one-half inch at 1 to 3 and 4, as shown on diagram ; curve up from 22 to 4, as shown on diagram ; curve from the waist to the hip and raise a line ; allow a small amount as shown on diagram from 5 to 7, 6 to 10, 11 to 29, 13 to 28, 15 to 30, 16 to 31. Then curve the bottom ; 3 and 4 the same as we have at the back from C to D ; be careful to curve strong at the front hip from 16 to 31, which amounts to al)out 3/4 inch. The other curve should amount to about 1/4 inch only for the hip part. This is cut out the same wav as the 36 French seam tight- fitting. 163 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 89. MISSES' SIXTEEN SIZE HALF-FITTING JACKET. To Ijegiii this garment we sliall use all measurements as usual for any other size 16. Begin same foundations from A to B. 6 ^/2 inches de]:)th ; from A to C, 15 inches, and from C to D one-third of size, which is 3-1 inches chest, or 5 3/1: inches. Draw all lines as usual from A, B, C and D; measure from B to G and from A to C two-thirds of size, or 11 3/8 inches, and draw a line up and down from A to G; divide from B to G, which makes H, and from FI to I is 1 1/1 inches, as usual. All others are followed the same way as the first tight-fitting. This size garment and the effect of it together is built the same way as size 3G of the same style. The space fromV to 3 and 2 to 4 is 1 inch, or the same way as on size 3G. The space l^etween G and 5, A and 7, is 3/4 inch ; between 8 and 9 is 3/4 inch. The dart for the front is also built the same way as on 36. Divide the chest part from 1 to F, which makes X, and take the same S]5ace from Z to 38. Draw straight lines down from X to 23 down to 11 ; from Y to Z is 3/4 inch, as on 36. The dart which is on both sides of 15 is from 15 to 10, 1/2 inch, and from 15 to U is 1 1/2 inches. From 11 to 18 is 3/4 inch. Draw a square line from 16 to 27, and a straight line down from 21 to 31, and finish with curves as shown on the diagram, or the same as the 36 size. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 164 18 a 31 K'^ Lesson 98 165 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 90. SHORT BOX COAT, SIZE SIXTEEN. _ To begin all these drafts, use all measurements as the first draft for this size. The measurements from A to B. from A to C, from C to D, is the same as always for Ifi size. In order to begin the bo.x coat's action, divide from I to J, which makes N ; take both sides of N, 3/4 inch, which makes 3 and 3 ; connect 3 to E, which is the box line and the hip line connected. Now raise up from E to 4, 1/2 inch, and curve from 4 lost to D ; make the bottom of this back somewhat round for making the side line for the front part. Meas- ure from E to V one-half for bust ; from \' to X is 3 inches; allow for seams. Draw the line down from X to 1, which is the hip line; measure from 1 to 5, 40 hip measurement on the two-thirds, which amounts to 13 3/8 inches. From 5 to 6 is 2 inches, \\hich is allowed for fullness ; connect (i up to 2 for the side line and connect this side line of the front according to the back. The side seam shall be longer by 1/8 inch; as the back side measures from 1 to 8, it is 1 1/2 inches; connect with a curve from 6 to 8 on to :. The buttons stand for this coat, which is from X to V. and should be 1 1/2 to 2 inches. The pocket for this garment should be followed the same wav as size 36, and some smaller following the size Ki or 34 chest. The lower pocket is always placed according to the front arm-hole line, which is from O to F down to the pocket place. This line gives us the center of the pocket. The pocket shall be placed 2 inches below the waist line for this short garment. The size of the pocket shall be 1 inch less than one-third of the size. This amounts to 4 3/4 inches, and should be equally divided on both sides of the centre line, which is IT and 18 for long coats. This pocket can be placed at least 3 inches below the waist line, and for long garments (! inches below the waist line. This completes this diagram. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 166 Lesson 90 167 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 91. MISSES' SIXTEEN SIZE SLEEVE WITHOUT ANY FULLNESS. To l)ei;in tliis sleeve, we follow the same rules as 36, only the size changes. To begin, draw a line from A to F and from A to D ; from A to P) is one-third of size, or 't 3/-i inches. Half of A and B is C ; from .\ to F is half of the size, or 8 1/3 inches; from ?> to D is inside sleeve length, which is 1 ; inches for this style. E is half-way of B and D. Cross all lines from A. B, E and D; from D to I is half the size, or 8 1/2 inches. Connect a line from I to F; from G to \' is one-twelfth of size, or 1 3/8 inches. Take half of C and \'. which makes T, and square a line down from T to U, and connect from \' to C (see diagram No. 2). From T to X is 1 inch; divide from I to D, which makes j ; from J to K is 2 inches, and draw a line against 1, which makes from I to O 1 inch. From ( Mo P is also 1 inch; from H to N is 1 inch, which is inside elljow line ; from (_'r to S is 1/2 inch. Draw a line from C to N and N to G; from P to N up to S, or, if a straight top sleeve is wanted, draw a line from P to II and from H to S; from K to L is 1 1/2 inches. Connect a is inside elbow line; from G to S is 1/2 inch. Draw a line from S to N and line from K to E and from L to M. and from M to \\' : from X to W" is 3/-1: inch. Then curve the top part of the sleeve with a circle, which is made by the star. From \" to C finish up the front cur\'e ; from A' to S, this star is half between T and U ; curve the undersleeve at W and raise the same, as shown on the diagram, and then cur\e against T down to G, as shown on the diagram. The inside cur\e at the elbow line should be somewhat filled in, so as not to have the lines broken. The same instructions should be used for the outside of the elbow of this sleeve. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 168 Lesson 9 1 169 HALF FITTING GARMENT. LESSON 92. MISSES' SIXTEEN SIZE FIVE-GORE SKIRT. The sj'Stem of skirts lor misses are also the same as the 36 size skirt, only the front changes in width and the other measurements are followed ac- C(ir(lini( to the size wanted. The measurements for this skirt are as follows: Waist 23 inches Front length 40 inches J 1 i|) -10 inches Side length 41 1/3 inches Rack length 43 inches To draft, draw lines from A to B and A to D ; from A to C is one-half of waist measure, or 11 1/2 inches ; from C to D is 3 inches ; from D cross a line up to E, which is on^-six th of the size that this skirt should be. This skirt is sizes Ifi to 34, which is 5 3/4 inches ; cross line from E to A ; from A to G is the hip line, -5 3/4 inches, the same as from E and F ; cross a line from G to F and measure one-half of the hip ; make a curve as shown on the dia- gram from A and J to E ; then measure the length from A to B, 40 inches, in the front ; from J to M is 41 1/3 inches side length ; from E to L is 43 inches back length ; from A to I is 2 inches ; from B to K is 4 inches, which is the bottom of the front. Divide from I to E, which makes J ; from K to L makes M; cross a line from J to M, which is the side seam for this skirt, take out one-eighth of an inch lost down to the hip line with a curve, then measure over the waist from A and I to E, and take out the over-built of waist on both sides of J. which makes N and O lost with a curve to the hip, as shown on diagram. Be careful to allow a small amount raised up at N and O in order to keep the equal roundness of this garment when having it sewed up. This skirt can also be cut with as many gores as wanted. Only the width of front must be changed to all difterent gores ; the width of front for misses' size are as follows : For .5-gore skirt, 2 inches ; for T-gore skirt, 1 3/4 inches; for 9-gore skirt, 1 1/2 inches; for 11-gore skirt, 1 1/4 inches; for 13- gore skirt. 1 1/S inches ; for 1.5-gore skirt, 1 inch ; for l~-gore skirt. T/8 inch ; for 19-gore skirt, 3/4 inch. These are the front widths to be used for misses' skirts. The front lengths for skirts should be followed according to the hip measurement ; the back length should be followed the same as mentioned above. The proper space between front and back length measurements for a misses' skirt should be 3 inches. The seams for this skirt are not allowed. Seams should be allowed when tracing of¥ this skirt separately. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 170 Lesson 92 171 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER EXTRA STOUT PROPORTIONS.— FOR HEIGHT OF 5 FEET 10 INCHES. Size or Chest. Bust. Waist. Hip. Natural Back Waist Depth. Length. Sleeve Length. Width of Back. Collar. 44 48 34 48 8 17 171/2 83/8 sVi 46 50 35 49 8% nVs 173/4 8% 81/2 48 53 36 50 81/2 in/4 18 8% 83/4 50 54 37 53 83^ 173/s 181/4 Qi/g 53 56 38 54 9 I71/2 I8I/2 93/8 91/4 54 58 40 56 91/4 17% 18% 9% 91/2 56 59 43 58 91/0 1734 19 9% 93^ 58 61 45 60 934 17% ISVi 10 10 60 63 48 63 9% 18 I91/2 10 ^s IOI/4 CHILDREN'S STOUT MEASUREMENTS. Natural Inside Width Waist Sleeve of Size. Breast. Waist. Hip. Depth. Length. Length. Back. Collar. 6 36 36 34 5% 101/2 11 53/4 51/2 8 38 38 35 5% 111/2 13 6 5% 10 30 30 36 6 13 1/2 13 6I/4 6I/4 13 33 33 37 6I/4 13 131/2 6I/2 61/4 14 33 34 38 61/2 131/2 14 6% 6I/2 The width of back and collar measurements on this table is showing the half way only, with seams included. thp: practical designer 172 Junior Sizes proportional measurements for JUNIORS' GARMENTS. Size. Breast. Bust. Waist. Hip. Depth, Natural Waist Length. Inside Sleeve Length. Width of Back. Collar. 12 30 32 23 36 6I/4 131/2 151/2 61/2 6 13 31 33 231/0 37 6% 133/4 16 6% Gi/s 14 32 34 24 38 6% 14 I6I/2 63/4 6I/4 15 33 35 241/2 39 6T/s 141/4 163/4 6% 63/8 16 34 36 25 40 7 141/2 17 7 6I/0 17 35 37 251/2 41 71/8 143/4 llVi 71/8 6% 18 36 38 26 42 -1/4 15 171/0 71/4 6% The width of back and collar measurements on this table is showing the half way only, with seams included. 173 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 93. SIZE TWELVE.— JUNIOR'S I5()X COAT. I^'or this garment we use the regular measurement of the size wanted. Follow the same outline as the first junior draft of the sime size. The length of this garment is 40 inches, as from A to l(i. After having all outlines com- plete we first divide from I to G. which makes X : take from N to G. 1 1/2 inches; cross a line from N to K down ti> 11 ; this line gives the width of hack on the side towards the front; E is on the hip and hox lines: from T to X is the bust measurement as alwa\s ; cross a straight line down from 7 to V, which is the bust measurement; from X to Y .'i inches are allowed for seams; cross a straight line down from X to S, the hip line; measure the hip from 8 to r> on the twi)-thirds; allow 1 inch from !• to 10 for fullness; cross a line from G over to 10 and down to ■-' : this completes the side part of this garment. Allow •'! inches for button stand from S to Y and from X to Z. Should we want the side of this coat shaped it shall be shaped from the arm hole. This completes the garment with all seams allowed. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 74 Lesson 93 175 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 94. JUNIOR HALF-FrrriNG FRENCH SEAM JACKET.— SIZE TWELVE. The junior size is followed by the same instructions as all others except measurements are changed according to the age or proportions. Age 12 is the first size for junior. The measurements for this size are as follows: Chest 30 inches Flip 36 inches Bust 32 inches Depth 6 1/4 inches AX'aist 23 inches Waist length 13 1/2 inches Sleeve length 1.5 1/2 incher. These measurements can also be found in the proportional table for junior sizes. To begin we draw lines from A to 39 and A to D ; from A to B is the depth of size, 6 1/4 inches ; from A to C is the natural waist length, 13 1/2 inches ; from C to D is the hip space ; from C to D is one-third of size, 5 inches. Be careful to keep in mind that the breast size of 12 is lio inches. All parts should be followed according to the size number, which is 30; cross all lines at A, B, C and D ; from B to G and D to E is two-thirds of size, or 10 inches ; draw a line from E to G up to U, then take one-half of B to G, which makes H ; from H to I is also 1 1/4 inches ; cross a line up from I to J ; from A to K is one-sixth of size, or 2 1/2 inches ; from K to L is alwa3'S 1 inch ; cross a line for the back shoulder from L against J to make M ; square a line down to meet I so as to make the width of shoulder in back; then make the back body line; from D to Y is one-twelfth of size; from C to S is 1/2 inch more ; connect a line from Y to S ; from S up to A ; from G to F is one-sixth of size ; now cross a line up from F to Q, then measure from O to R and from R to O, which is one-sixth of size ; from R to W' is also one-sixth of size ; cross a line from O, which is the neck point to T, for the front shoulder line ; measure from L to M the width of shoulder on back and place the same from to U; cross a line from U to F for the front armhole ; then measure one- half of bust, which is 32 inches from T to V ; from V to X, allow 3 inches for seams; square a line down from X to Z, which is on the waist line; from Z to 1 is 1/2 inch ; cross a line down from X to 1 and 4, then measure over for a button stand from X to 25, which is 3 inches, and the same from 1 to 3 and 4 to 43, from Y to 7 is one-sixth of size, and 1/2 inch more ; from S to .-) is 1 inch less than from Y to 7 ; from 7 to 31 is 3/4 inch ; from 5 to (^ is 1 inch ; cross line from 7 to 5 and from 31 to 6; cross a line from 5 to 48, then connect with a round curve from (i up to 48 on the breast line. Before dividing the shoul- der, which is 48. we first allow from M to N 3/4 inch and divide from L to N to make 48; from G to28 is 3/4 inch; from E to 27 is also 3/4 inch; cross a line from 8 to 27. then towards the back from 8 is 1/4 inch; from 9 to II THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER !76 Lesson 94 177 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER is 1/2 inch, from -i] tn 29 is 1/2 inch, tlie same as from E to 30; from 12 to l.j is 3/4 inch; cross a line from 29 to 1.") and from 15 up to G; from Z to 2 is one-eighth of the size; cross a line from lo to 2, then divide the chest part for the dart. Divide from F to X, making 49; take the same from 50 to 1 1 and cross a line from 49 to IT down to 21 ; divide from IT to 49, making 28; from IT to IS is 1/2 inch; from 21 to 22 is '-i/i inch; from IT to 19 is 1 inch: cross lines from 2S to 1S down to 22; from 28 to in and to 20; -.'(1 is the square line from Is. Xow square a line down from 20 to 24, then divide the front shoulder for the front seam; from (J to U take one-half, making 32. Allow both sides of 32 to 33 and 34, 3/8 inch ; now- cross a line from 33 to 28 ; cross a line down to the front from 34 to 51 ; curve at 28 from 33 down to 18, and the same way from 34 to 51, 28 down to 19 and 20. This completes the French seam in front. Now curve the neck part from O to V lost to 40; from \\' to 40 is about 2 1/2 inches; cross a line up from 4(1 to ;59 for the front lapel, which is also about 2 1/2 inches; mark the opening, which begins at 26. for this garment; cross a line from 26 to 35 to ;i6 ; 35 is 1 inch from O ; from 35 to 36 is one-sixth of the size it should l)e. The space at the liack from 36 to 3T and from 35 to O curve from 3T and O down to 40; make a cur\-ed line from 39 to 26; the collar from 36 to 38 is 2 inches in width; from 3!1 to 41 is about 1/2 inch space; from 40 to 41 is about 1 1/2 inches ; make a straight line from 38 to 41 and curve as shown on diagram ; make all curves by beginning at the back from A to L and from L to M to round the arm holes from N and 8 and G to U; from U to O is the front shoulder; shape both shoulders alike; shape the hip pari from 5 to 7; from 6 to 31 ; from 11 to 3() and from 15 to 29, also the front from 19 to 20 and 24, also from 28, 18 and 22. Be careful to have the length from 20 and 24 the same as from 18 to 22 ; curve from 22 to 43 and 1/2 inch up. To niake this jacket with a no-seam back take 3/8 inch off from A to 44 and from Y to 45 and cross a line as the line shows; use the increase that is abo\e at the waist line from S to 4(5 and the same from S to 4T at the inside part of the back; All seams are allowed. LESSON 95. JUNIOR'S LONG CAPE.— SIZE TWEIA'E. To begin this ca])e we draw the same lines as for a box coat. The button stand is 3 inches for a double-breasted coat front. When the draft of the box coat is all complete, draw a line up by the sides from 13 against 10 up to M and curve around from the shoulder at the back from L and M down lo 10 and 14. This completes the back part. The front outline is also com- pleted the .same way. After having these side lines complete according to the hip measurement, raise the same line up to the shoulder line at U and clu-ve from the front shoulder at O and U to N lost to 12. When cutting out this skirt cut the straight line at the back from A and E ; from A to L, J to .M, 1(1 and 14; from bfto 14 is always 1 inch up-curve; 14 is lost to E. This eouii)leU's the back. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 178 The front curxe from O to W, 16 and 15 ; to 3 and 9 ; from to 12 and from O and U down to 12. The length towards L and M to 14, which is the back part, should be connected to the front part from O and U to 13. This front should be 1/4 inch longer. This completes the long cape. 179 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 96. A YOKE FOR BOX COAT.— SIZE FIFTEEN. This yoke can be applied to any coat wanted, or to any size wanted. As a rule yokes should be cut for bo.x coats or full garments only. After having the outlines all cut out, be careful to have the breast line cross the pat- tern, which is on this diagram. At the back, from A to B and X to D, after having these lines, we begin the yoke part at the back, as from A to E and from B to F is 1 1/3 inches, and when one-point yoke is wanted, to one-half back, divide E and F, which makes X ; cross a straight line from X to M. \\'hen a three-point yoke is wanted at the back, follow the breast line as shown on the diagram ; from N to O is 1 inch ; cross a line down from O to P and curve from P up to R, then down to A. At P we have a full point, and at A we have one-half point. When this garment is all cut out double we have at the center back one full point and one point to either side, which makes it a three-point yoke. \\'hen cutting this back for a yoke be careful to cut the center hack on the fold of cloth in order to have no seams for this back. Follow the same instructions on the front from C to G and from D to H, which is 1 1/2 inches up; cross a line from G to H ; be very careful to notice the button stand lines at the front, which is from L to H and from I to D, and to divide from the button stand, which is L to G, which makes J ; cross a line from J to K for the one-point yoke on the front ; curve from ( i to K, up to L, out to H. Should we want a three-point yoke in front, a.s shown on back, we also curve from L to D, according to breast line. This completes the outline of this yoke. When cutting out this garment be careful to cut both sides separately and allow seams as follows : From E, M and F, which is the back; from G, K, L and H, or if a breast line is wanted, from A, R,. P and F and from J. K, L and D allow seams both sides. The upper part is the yoke, the liottom part is the lower part of this garment, ^^'hen raised seams are wanted be careful to allow all space allowance, which is about 3/4 inch, or any other lapover that may he wanted. This completes the voke garment. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 180 Lesson 96 181 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 97. THE JUNIOR SLEEVE.— SIZE TWELVE. 'Iliis sleeve for the junior size should be followed by the chest number and the inside length for sleeve wanted. According to this size, the junior sleeve should always be cut with some fullness. The measure for this sleeve is as follows: The size of sleeve is .SO; the inside length for sleeve is !•") l/"2 inches. To draft, draw a line from A to F and from A to D ; from A to B is one-third of size; from B to D is 15 1/2 inches for the inside sleeve length. Half of B and D makes E; cross all lines from A to F ; from B to G; from D to I and divide A to B, which makes C ; Measure from A to F, and from D to I, which is two-thirds of size, and cross a line from I to F ; the measure from G to V is one-twelfth of size; cross a line from C to V, then divide from C to V, making Y ; cross a straight line from Y to U ; divide Y to U, making the star ; divide the bottom line, D to I. which makes J; from J to K is the straight line down, measuring 2 inches; cross a line from K against I ; from I to O is 1 inch ; from O to P is also 1 inch; from H to N is 1/2 inch; now connect with lines from O to N and P to N ; from G on both sides to S and W is 1/2 inch ; connect a line from S to N and W to N ; from K to L is 2 inches; from E to X is 8 inches; from X to M is 2 1/2 inches; cross a line from K to X up to C: from R, M and T; cross the undersleeve at the bottom, which is 1/2 inch at R and O, and cut lines from R to Q. This is the bottnm of the undersleeve; curve the sleeve on tup; the curve by the star from \", finishing at S; curve the under- sleeve at T and raise up o/^ inch, as shown on diagram, to \V. This com- pletes the junior sleeve, size 12. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 182 Lessen 97 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 98. JUXIOR'S FIVE-GORE SKIRT.— SIZE TWELVE. JJefore beginning the junior skirt we first look over the waist and hip measurements, and also the front length of the skirt. The front length for skirts can be changed at any time when wanted, as we have no standard length whatever for skirts. The full-length skirt for juniors shall be followed according to the breast number, which is 30 inches for size 12. Regarding the straight line, we can make it to anj^ length wanted. The measurement.- for this skirt are as follows : Waist 33 inches Front length 30 inches Hip 36 inches Side length 31 inclies Back length 32 inches We draw a line from A to D and from A to B ; from A to C is one-half of the waist measurement ; from C to D is 2 inches ; from D to M is 3 inches up ; cross a line from M to A ; from A to E is one-third of the size of this breast measurement ; cross a parallel line for the hip according to the waist, which makes F; measure from E to F one-half of hip measurement; draw a line from M against F down to L, which makes the back length; curve from A and H to M, the waist line; measure from A to B, 30 inches; from H to K is 31 inches ; from M to L is 32 inches for the back length ; curve a line at tiie bottom from B, K and L ; now make the front part from A ; 1 is 2 inches up ; from B to J is 4 inches. This completes the front. Shape both sides of I about 1/8 inch to either size; divide from I to M, which makes H; measure over your waist from A to M and see the over- built from one-half of waist and take out whatever there is over-built on botii sides of H at X and X ; raise a small amount at X and X ; before curving allow seams and curve from X, and N lost to the hip line and side seam. When no straight length is wanted follow the changes made in front to shorten length for about 3 inches ; measure from B to O is 3 inches, which measure will make 27 inches in front; and from B to P is 6 inches short, which will make 24 inches, to the length in front. When one of these lengths is wanted be careful to curve to the back line equally. AI'. seams should be allowed. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 184 Lesson 98 185 THE PRACTICAL DESiaNEii LESSON 99. JUNIOR'S CIRCLE SKIRT.— SIZE TWELVE. The measurements for this skirt are the same as the 5-gore skirt. Draw lines from A to C and A to B ; from A to C is one-half of waist and from C to D is 3 inches up. Measure the front length from A to B ; make the hip line one-third of size below the waist from E to F; measure one-half of hip from E and F and connect a line from D against F to J, which makes the back line of this skirt ; measure the back length from D to J and the side and front lengths; curve the bottom from B to I and J; always curve the waist first from A to H and D; from C to 2 should be 1 inch top curve. This completes the circle skirt. Be careful to allow all seams. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 186 Childrens' Sizes PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS FOR CHILDREN'S GARMENTS. Xalural Inside W'idlh Waist Sleeve .if Size. r.reasi. W'aisl. llip. Depth. Length, i.en-tli. I'.aek. Cellar 2 22 2-2 -^S 5 !) ii :, 4V.. 4 24 ■).', ill ^14 Id ID 0V4 ■") i; 2(i 24 )2 51., 11 1 1 5% •^Vi ,s 2X 2') ',:] 5% ^2 1 2 C> 51/, 10 ;5o 2r,i:. ]\ (1 1:! l:l 6V4 5:54 13 :n 2(i ',:, (;>4 i:;i., II (1 1 t; 14 ;!2 ■)~ iii 11' .. M l.-) IV;4 •i'j The width nf liael< and ccillar nieasiMenients nn this tahle is .showin;; the half \\a\' nnh-. with seams inclnded. 187 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 100. REEFER COAT.— SIZE SLX. For this garment we should use all measurements, following size 6. This garment is cut in three parts'. The measurements for this garment are as follows : Size 6 — Breast "20 inches Deptli 5 inches Waist 24 inches \\'aist length 11 inches Hip .32 inches Sleeve length 10 inches To draft, draw a line fmm A tn R and from A to D ; from A to B is the depth ; from A to C is the natural waist length ; from C to D is the hip length ; the hip length is always one-third of size below the waist line; draw all lines as usual. From A. B. C and D, from B to G and D to E is two-thirds of size, or 8 3/4 inches for this size ; draw a line from E to G up to U ; take one half of B to G, which makes H ; from H to X is 1 1/4 inches ; cross a line up from N to J ; make the neck space at the back ; from A to K is one-sixth of size ; from K to L is 1 inch ; connect a line from L against J to M and square a line down from M to N. which makes the width of shoulder and also the width of back. In order to begin this back at the waist and hip we divide H and N, which makes I ; place a straight ruler from J against I and square a line down from I to the waist line, which makes 16, and mark at the same time at the hip line, which makes 17; from 16 to 19 is 1/2 inch, and from 17 to IS is 1 inch; connect 18 to 16 and IT to 19. then take one-half of I and N and cross a line up from 19 for a side body : take one-half between J and X which makes ^Xfrom XX to AX is 1 inch lower; cross a line from AX, as shown on the diagram, and curve the back between the space at N and I losl to 16, and at the same time curve from the same place to 19 lost to 17 and 18 ; from G to 9 is 3/4 inch ; same from E to 5 ; cross a line from 9 to 5 for the side body, then increase the hip from the waist line down for the side bod}' from 10 to E ; draw a line from 4 to 3, which is 1/2 inch ; from 5 to 8 is 3/4 inch ; cross a line from 3 to 8 and from 3 to G. This completes the ^ide foi the front ; from G to F is one-sixth of the size ; cross a line up from F to Q, from O to P ; from P to O is one-sixth of the size ; cross a line from O to T for the front shoulder. In order to measure the front shoulder we first meas- ure the back shoulder from L to M and place the same from O to U ; connect a line from U to !■" for the front arm-hole ; measure the breast from T to X ; from X we allow 3 inches for seams ; cross a straight line from Y to 6 ; from Y to Z and from 6 to 7 is 3 inches allowed for button stand on the double- breasted front. From 7 to 1 is 1 1/2 inches ; correct from 3 to 8 the hip length and connect with a curve on the bottom from 1 ; mark the opening of this coat at 2; from O to S is 1 inch for the stand line at the collar. \\'hen the line is crossed straighten out to 1/4 inch from O to 23 ; curve the neck from 23 out to A' ; from R to C is 2 1/2 inches ; from V to W is the lapel measure of 3 inches ; connect a line from W with a round stick lost to 2. From V to 25 is the notch of collar. This should be 1 inch less than from V to W ; measure width of collar at the back, measuring from XB to 24. which is 2 inches; cross a line somewhat curved from 24 to 2.5 ; curve a small amount at the back collar 23 to 24 ; curve the hips from the waist as shown on the diagram. When curving the side body at the arm-hole allow 1/2 inch up at X and C and curve as shown. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER Lesson 100 1 89 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 101. CHILD'S IlOX COAT.— SIZE SIX. Before commencing to draft we first look np the measurements for the size wanted. The measurements for this liarment are as follows : i ireast 'Hi inches Waist length 11 inches Waist 24 inches Inside slee\e length 10 inches Depth 5 inches Hi]5 :V2 inche,^ Begin to draw the outlines frcmi A to R and from A U> Ki ; from A to B IS 5 inches deep; from A to C is 11 inches waist length; from .\ to Ki is ?1 inches full length ; from C to D is one-third of size for the hip space ; cross i line from A to R; from B to Z; from C to 5; from D to 8 ; from 16 to G. After having all lines complete, measure on the hreast line from T> to G and from D to E ; on the hip line two-thirds of size or S 5/8 inches for this size; cross a line from E and G up to U ; divide from B to G on the breast line, which makes H; from H to I is 1 1/4 inches; draw a line tip from I to J; from A to K is one-sixth of size ; from K to L is 1 inch up ; connect a line from L to J out to M. which makes the shoulder width; connect a square line down from 'SI to I; make the top line in back: from D to 11 is one- twelfth; from C to \2 is one-half more; connect a line from 11 to 12 and from 1 2 up to A ; from G to F is one-sixth of size ; draw a line up from F to O ; from O to P is one-sixth of the size ; draw a line from O to T ; cross the Hue for the front shoulder line ; measure the front shoulder from O to L' ; before measuring the front shoulder measure the back shoulder from L to AI and place the same from O to U ; connect a line from U to F for the front arm hole; measiu'e one-half of the breast, which is 26 for this size, or one-halt is K) inches from T to X; from X to Y is 3 inches for seams allowed: cross a line down from Y to 3 and 8 and 3, on the waist line : from 3 to 4 allow one- half inch and draw a line down from Y to 4 down to the bottom ; allow the button stand from Y to Z, which is 3 inches ; from 4 to 5, and from S to V, which is on the top ; R to S is 1/2 inch up. and in order to raise for the closed neck. Now curve frorn S to V dow-n to Z ; from Z draw a straight line down to 6 and T; from 6 to 7 is 1 1/2 inches; divide at the armhole between the front and back; from I to G take one-half, which makes X; cross a straight line from X against E, which is the back line on hip down to 1 ; from 1 to XX is 1 inch up; curve from XX to 16; measure one-half of hip line from .^ to 9 ; from 9 to 10 is 1 inch, allowed for fullness ; cross a line from G against 10 to 2; from G to 2 will be one-eightth longer than the length from X' to XX. Xow we mark the place for the pockets: cross a line down from F to 18 for the hip line; then take one-half between waist and hip. which is between G and 1.S, making 13; cross a line at 13 to a small slant towards the bottom in front and mark one-sixth of the size to both sides of 13, which makes 14 an-.i I."). riiis makes one-third of size for pocket. In order to make the slant side pocket make from 17 to 20 in ch. and from IS to 19 also 1 inch for the slant - ness; draw a line from 20 to 111. and from 19 to 22; 20 to 21 is the width of veil ; curve the arm-liole as shown from M tci X and G up to U. Always cur\ e the slioulders as shuwn on diagram. This garment is cut with all seams allowed. In case a seam is noi needed, take 3/8 inch off at A and 16 across a line as shown on diagram. Thi.-- com]deies the child's size lo box coat. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 190 Lesson 1 1 191 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 102. FRENCH SEAM COAT.— SIZE TEN. This garment is followed according to measurements of size 10. The measurements are as follows : Breast 28 inches Depth 3 1/2 inches Waist 25 1/2 inches Waist length 13 inches Hip 34 inches Full length 30 inches Inside sleeve length 12 inches To draft, draw a line from A to R and from A to 1.5 ; from A to B is the depth; from A to C is the natural waist length; from A to 1.5 is tlie full length of garment, which is 30 inches; from C to D is one-third for hip space; cross all lines from A, B, C, D and 15 ; when having all lines crossed measuring from B to G and D to E two-thirds of size ; cross a line up from E and G to U ; divide from B to G, making H ; from H to I is always 1 1/4 inches ; raise line up as usual and connect a shoulder line from A to K, making one-sixth of the size; from K to L is 1 inch up, to make the shoulder line, and from L to M to I as usual ; from M to N allow 3/4 inch ; cross a line from M to I and the same from N down from G to F is one-sixth of the size ; cross a line from F up to Q ; from O to P and from P to O is one-sixth of the size ; cross a line from O to T as usual and measure the front shoulder from O to U the same as from L to jM ; connect a line from U to F for the front arm-hole ; measure from D to 11 on the hip line one-twelfth of size, and from C to 13 is 1/2 inch more; cross a line from 12 up to A and against 11 down to the bottom, making 15 ; measure one-half of breast from T to X, and from X to Y allow 3 inches for seams ; square a straight line down from Y to 6 ; from 6 to 7 allow 1/2 inch. We allow from T to 1 and from Y to Z 2 inches for button stand. This button stand is allowed for a single-breasted front ; cross a straight line down from Z to 13 and 14; from 13 to 14 is 1 1/2 inches; from 12 to 16 is one-sixth of size, and from 11 to 18 is 1 inch more; cross a line from 16 to 18 down to 21 for the back ; now divide the shoulder at the back from L to N, which makes 26 for the French seam ; then cross a line from 26 to 16 ; from 16 to 19 is 1/2 inch, the same as from 18 to 17 ; cross a straight line down from 19 to 17 and down to 20. Make a curve at 19 lost to H. This completes the French seam at the back part. From G to 9 and from E to 5 is 3/4 inch space ; cross a line from 5 up to 9 ; 8 is at the waist line ; from 8 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 192 Lesson 102 193 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER to 10 is 1/2 inch ; cross a line from 9 to 10 and from 10 to E down to 25 ; from 4 to 3 is 1/2 inch ; cross line from G to 3 against 5 down to 22, which makes the hip lines at the side. Now begin the dart in front; divide from F to Y. which makes X ; measure the space X to Y and place the same on the w-aist line from 7 to 30 ; cross a straight line down from X against 30 down to 29. Be careful to have the bottom from 14 to 29 about 3/4 inch more than on the waist line from 1 to 30 ; from 30 to 31 is 1/2 inch, the same as from 29 to 32 ; cross a line from 31 to 32 for the side part of front ; divide X and 30, making 28; divide the shoulder at the front; from O to U makes 27 ; allow both sides of 27, 3/8 inch for seams, which makes 36 and 37 ; cross first a line from 36 to 28 and from 37, with a space lost also to 38 ; curve the inside line from 36 lost at 30; curve a line from 37 to 38, and 28 and 31 as shown on the diagram. This completes the seam in front. To make the shawl collar for this garment, curve from O to R lost down to V and make the stand line from 2 to S out to W, as usual ; from O to S is ! inch for the stand space. Between W and 23 is th esame as from O to S ; from W to 24 is the width', of collar ; make a curve from 24 to V lost at 2 for the shawl collar. The width of collar in front can be made to taste or st3de wanted. The under collar should be cut out from 24 and AV to 23, O and R to V. Should you want a top collar you cut out from 24, W and 23 straight down to XX ; from XX to 2 and V up to 24. The top collar should always be traced before the collar is cut apart or the under collar is taken off. The pocket for this garment is shown on the diagram somewhat slant. The original place of pocket should always be at the middle part of hip space at the front. This pocket is begun with a 1/3 inch between 4 and E as shown at AX; cross a line from AX to 31 in front; take one-half of AX and 31, which makes 33; allow both sides of 33, 34. and 35 for one-sixth of size to make this pocket one-third of the size. Shape the flap in this pocket as shown on the diagram. Flaps can be made to any width wanted. This completes the French seam coat. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 194 Lesson 103 LESSON 103. CHILD'S SLEEVE WITHOUT FULLNESS.— SIZE SIX. To begin the sleeve we use the breast measurement of the garment and inside length for the sleeve. The size we use follows size 6, or 26 inches breast measurement, and 10 inclies inside sleeve length. To begin, draw a line from A to F and from A to D : from A to B is one-third of size, or 4 .3/4 inches ; from B to D is the inside sleeve length, E is the elbow line. Now cross a line from A, B, E to D ; C is half A and B ; cross a line from F to I ; from G to V is one-twelfth of size, or 1 1/8 inches ; now cross a line from V to C and take half, which makes T ; from T to X is 1 inch. Di- vide from D to I, which makes J ; from J to K is 1 1/2 inches ; from H to N is 1/2 inch; from O to P is also 1/3 inch. Connect O to N, and N to G; then connect a line from P to H and from H to S ; from K to L is 1 inch ; from E to ]\I is 2 inches ; connect a line from K to E, which is the top sleeve ; now connect a line from L to M and M to X ; from X to W is 3/4 inch ; cross a square line down from T to U and divide between, which makes the star. Make the curve at the star from \' to C and finish up the curve from V to S; finish the curve for the undersleeve from \\" with a seam marked to T down to G. At O and L increase the undersleeve length to Q and R with the space which is shown with a straight line from I, crossing out to Q, which is about 1/2 inch ; the inside length for the top sleeve is from S down to P, and the inside length for the undersleeve is from G to Q This completes the child's sleeve with all seams allowed. 195 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 104. CHILD'S SHORT CAPE.— SIZE TEX. To begin this cape we draw lines as usual according to the measure- ments of the size. Begin to draw lines according to the waist line and hip length, which is from A to B and C to D. Follow this cape according to the size of the breast. After having all outlines complete and the width of back line, which is from B to I up to J ; make a curved line from A to L for the back of neck and from L to J make a curved line out to the front to meet Z, which is the regular waist line. Curve a line from the front at O to meet at the back the regular waist line to Y ; measure round from L to M and place the same for the front shoulder line from O to M, then sweep a circle by O from M to be finished at 2 and 3 ; from S to 4 is -3/4 inch up for a closed neck, and from 4 to .5 ; from \' to \\". Allow at 2 to .3. 1 inch for the button stand, and curve as shown on the diagram. Seams and bust measurement are meas- ured as usual on this garment. From T to X is the breast measurement, and from X to V allow 3 inches for seams as usual. When more fullness is wanted for this cape in front, make a curve from L' to Y to meet U to C. This will make the fullness in front. This cape has all seams allowed. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 196 Lesson 1 04 197 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 105. CHILD'S ONE-PIECE CAPE. To make a circle cape cut out the back and front of a short box cape. To begin, mark out the back first. From A to B is the length ; A to C is the neck at the back; from C to D is the shoulder width. Connect the front shoulder to the back shoulder as shown on the diagram from C to D. After this mark out the front neck from C to F ; also the front from F to G and all around ; cross a line out from the shoulder C and D to F. Begin to sweep from length of back at B by C to meet E and G, which is the length of the cape in front. This completes the short circle cape in front. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 198 Lesson 103 199 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 106. CHILD'S OXE-PIECE SKIRT.— SIZE TEX. The measurements for this skirt are as follows: Waist 25 1/2 inches Front length 20 inches Hip 34 inches Side length 20 1/2 inches Back length 21 inches To begin, draw a line from A to B ; from A to C is half of waist meas- urements; from A to B is front length for the skirt; following the chest measurement, which is 20 inches. Xow measure for the hip length below the waist line from A to E one-third of the size of this garment , the one-third should follow according to the breast size of the waist, which is 30 inches ; one-third of this size should amount to 5 inches. This means one-third of 15. Measure a parallel space from D to hip line which meets F; measure on this line half of 34, or 17 inches. Meas- ure the front length of the skirt from A to B ; then draw the back line from D against F to J, and measure the back length. Curve the waist ; G is half-way between A and D ; from G to H is 3/4 inch ; curve from A and H to D ; measure from H to I for side length, and make the bottom curve from B to J. This completes the skirt. This draft has no seams allowed ; onlv one seam should be allowed on this skirt, which should be from D to J when cut out. This seam can also be allowed when making the foundation lines. In drafting allow the seam, and an additional 1/2 inch, measuring the waist from A to C. From C to D is always 3 inches, and when the seam is allowed on the waist, the seam should also be allowed when measuring the hip from E to F. Seams can always be allowed by making foundations in the same manner. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 200 Lesson 1 06 201 HALF FITTING GARMENT. LESSON 107 ONE-PIECE SLEEVE WITFI FULLNESS ON THE BOTTOM.— SIZE SIX. For this sleeve cut out the first sleeve. After having all cut out, mark out the top sleeve, A, B, D, C to A. When the top sleeve is all marked out connect the undersleeve at the top, C and H ; when connecting be careful to connect the under and top sleeve according to shape from A, K to M to G. When this undersleeve is placed according to above rule mark out the under- sleeve all around as shown from E, G, E, F to H. Curve the bottom for the sleeve from B to H, then curve the top part as usual from A to G; from J to K is 1 inch less, and from L to M is 1 inch more. All these sleeves have seams allowed. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 202 GRADING FOR WOMEN'S, MISSES', JUNIORS' 8c CHILDREN'S Cloaks and Suits 203 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER THE INTEREST OF GRADING. Even.- garment worn by women, misses, juniors and children are manu- factured in different sizes, in order to suit all kinds of shapes and forms. In wholesale manufacturing the medium sizes are adapted for the model or sample garments on which all designs and ideas are worked, and when this model is finished to the full satisfaction of the designer or concern regarding the st>le and fit, all the different sizes are graded from the model pattern. Here is where the grading plaj'S its part, and where all the responsibility rests on the one .who grades the patterns. Here is where the grader must have the practical knowledge of proportions and how to apply the rules of proportions to the main fitting actions. It should be known that it makes no difference by what s\stem the pattern is cut the grading has nothing to do with it. If the model size fits to perfection the whole set will be perfect. In women's garments the medium size is 36. In misses' garments the medium size is 16. In juniors the size is 15. In children's garments the medium size is 6. These four forms are strictly different from each other. The child grows very fast until the age of 15J, therefore the body wavers in length and in circumference, but alwa3-s flat in formality. •The junior also grows fast until the age of 16. The bust for this age is somewhat developed and waist more shapeh*. The hip is also a great deal developed. The difference between these two forms sholud be particularly noticed, as they are most of the time misunderstood by all. The misses do not grow in height as fast as the child and junior, but she develops more in circumference, especially around the bust, until the age of 21. The women remain about the same, with the exception that some have extra large busts and narrow chests with ven,- large hips. Before commencing to grade, we need to decide where grading should be done. The size of the garment should be the first outlook, so as to know how much to increase or decrease, also the difference between the height and width of garments. Any portion of a garment that has any gather, folds, pleats or shirring is not necessary to be graded. To obtain satisfactory.- results, use your patterns as you draft them. Face up and cut your model patterns of heavy paper and place them to be graded according to the system of grading. Be ver\- careful and exact in measuring the distance between the patterns. Be very exact, accurate and have patience. By doing so you will save both time and material. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 204 CORRECTION ON GRADING. W'hen commenciniy to grade be very careful to remember the size of the model pattern, also the size to be graded, or increase from the model pattern. It is also proper to keep in mind the different sections that are used for design- ing and garment cutting, which arc as follows : the women's sizes, misses' sizes, juniors' sizes and children's sizes. We need to keep in mind the dif- ferent sections in order to know what increase is necessary for their sections. It is also proper to know what proportionate measurements are required for the different model sizes for either section. Be careful to have all seams allowed before grading. It should not make any difference what sort of pattern is used or what the size of the garment is. Whatever part of the garment it is, we should always be sure the seams are allowed. Folds, seams and shirring are not to be graded, for the sim- ple reason that all the grading that is to be done is followed according to the most outgoing part of the garment. MANUAL OF GRADING SIZES. The grading sizes for the medium women's sizes. We use size '36 for the model pattern. For the misses, size 16 for the model pattern. For the junior size we use size 15 for the model pattern. I'^or the children's size we use size (i or 10 for the model pattern. For infants' size we use size 4 for a model pattern. For the regular stouts, which are women's sizes only, we use size 45 for a model pattern. For short stouts we use size 42 for a model pattern. For extra stouts we should use size 48 for a model pattern. The grading for all these stouts are to be followed according to the space between size, as usual. The skirts for all dift'erent sizes should be graded according to the waist and hip measurements only. Lengths for all skirts have no special rule. 205 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 108. HOW TO GR.\DE A BLOUSE.— 36 TO 38. Before beginning to grade, prepare the pattern on a draft. It is proper and practical to draft a pattern directly for the grading purpose. When the draft is drawn complete cut out the front and back seperately and place on a separate sheet of paper for the back only, as the back should be the first part to be graded. Now draw a line from the back from 10 to 11 and shift the pattern in 1/8 inch from 10 to A and from 11 to D. This is the be- ginning for grading the width or the size of the pattern from 36 to 38. From 36 to 38 we should grade 1 inch, as the space between 36 to 38 is 2 inches, and we grade half of the amount for half of the patterns. Now increase up from A to 10 and from L to 9 and from M to H 1/8 inch lost to B ; from 5 to B is 1/4 inch; from 4 to 12 is 1/8 inch. This completes the back grading tor the blouse. Before we begin the front part we should know how much we have increased the width between 36 and 38. This width measurement should be decided on the breast lines only at T. We have allowed at the back 1/8 inch, and from o to B we have allowed 2/8 inch. This amounts to •^/8 inch graded on the width of the back. Now it means that we have -5/8 ch to increase for the width of the front We begin to increase the front, and from 6 to C all the way down is 3 to E, which is 1/8 inch. The proper way to begin to grade the front of the blouse is to draw a line from 1 to 2 and place the pattern there from X to Z ; make the cur\-e according to the pattern of th'' neck from 2 to T. When this curvx is made, shift the front pattern back from 1 to X and 2 to Z and from 7 to O. First divide between 7 and O, which makes S, and make the cur\-e from S to 2, which is the middle cur^e from S to 2. Now allow for the height of shoulders, raising up from O to S and from U to 8, 1/8 inch. Now you can allow 1/8 inch all the way down on the side body from 6 to C and 3 to E, and finish up from E the waist curve as shown on the diagram. Look over again the increasing of the depth and also the height, which is the increase of the depth from the breast line up to the neck. For grading larger and smaller sizes increase or decrease the same amount ; for grading two larger sizes at a time, increase twice the amount ; or, by grading two smaller sizes, de- crease twice the amount. Always be careful not to increase or decrease more than is needed. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 206 Lesson 108 207 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 109. HOW TU GRADE A BOX COAT FROM SIZE 3G TO SIZE 38. ' Before commencing to grade, cut out front and back separately. As a rule we use size 36 for a model pattern for women's sizes. After having the front and back pattern cut out. place the back on a separate sheet of paper and mark all around as follows : From A. B, C, G, F and E to D. It is proper to have the breast line on each part of the pattern, as on the back the bixast line is from B crossed to F. E.xtend a line from B, which is the back de^ ih point from B to D, which increases the neck part, and again from B to E, which increases the width of the shoulder. Increase or grade from 36 to 38; from A to N and from D to ]M is 1/S inch, also from E to L is 1/S inch in height and width ; from F to K and from G to J is 3/8 inch. The length for this coat is shown from C to H and from J to I. and is graded according to the length. This length can be increased from 1/2 inch to 1 inch. For women's garments we should grade a very small amount in length for women's sizes. For copying the next size, which is size 38. according to the increase which has been made, use the original model pattern. This completes the back part. Place the front part on a separate sheet of paper, mark all around and increase from Y to Z and O to X. which is 1/8 inch. Increase the shoulder in height from E to B at the front neck point to A 1/S inch. Regarding the proper increasing of the neck, I have prepared an outline which will give the proper action for this part of the garment. In order to begin, straighten front part under the arm-hole as shown at W. This line from W to U is 1 1/2 inches up. Draw a line up against A. which will show the proper increases for the height and width and for the height of neck. In order to increase the ending part for the neck, mark oft the amount for buttcn stand, which is from I to X. Take half from W to X, which makes V, and extend lines from V to beginning of the neck notch or beginning of lapel to F, and also to the finishing of the lapel which is from V to H. Increase from F to C, which is 1/8 inch, and from II to D is 1/4 inch. Increase the front part from I to J all the way down to N. which is 1/2 inch. Xow increase the length in front at bottom, the same as you increased the back length. The place for pocket should also be increased in height. The original pocket for 3() size, which is shown on the diagram, is at R and O ; for size 38 increase 1/2 incli for lower pocket, which is from O to T and from R to S. For smaller sizes decrease to the same amount in height for the size of pocket. This completes. the box coat srrading. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 208 Lesson 109 209 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON no HOW TO GRADE A LOXG CAPE, SIZES 3G TO 38. In beginning to grade cut out front and hack pattern and mark out first part on a separate sheet of paper. Mark out the l>ack from A, D, G, and C to B up to A and X ; G is tlie lireast line. Draw a Hne from X against D, which will increase the space for a larger size from E to F or for a smaller size below A. Increase size 36 to size 38 ; increase from A to E and from D to F ]/8 inch ; from G to H is 1/4 inch all the way down to C and I. If a longer cape is wanted for larger sizes increase from B to Y and I to J 1/2 inch. This completes the back grading. In order to begin the front part for grading mark out front on a sheet of paper, cross a line on front pattern at T and X. Draw a line from N to O out to O and draw bias line for increasing at K and P, following the slantness of O and O; from K to S, from P to R and from O to O is 1/8 inch ; increase from Size 3G to 38 and from X to X all the way down to M ; U is 1/4 inch. Xow use the cur\e from Q to X, as shown on the diagram with a broken line all the way down to Z; from T to \' and L to W' is 1/2 inch; increase from \V to Y ; U to Z is 1/2 inch, for increasing the length from one size to another. It ..s not necessary to grade women's sizes in length, as all sizes can remain alike in length. The size for itself grades at the upper part from the breast line uj) to the neck. For smaller sizes decrease to the same amount as we increase for larger sizes ; reduce 40 size to a 3(5 the same way. This com- jiletes this grading. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 210 Lesson 1 10 211 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 111. lUJW TO GRADE A HALF-FITTING' SEAM JACKET. To grade this garment we also complete the pattern and cut out the original parts in order to ha\-e the breast and waist line and all other founda- tions. Mark each part of the garment separately on a separate sheet of paper before commencing to grade this pattern. We have to keep in mind that this garment is cut in four parts, two for back and two for front. Begin to grade at the back ; from A to B is the depth line. Cross a line against D from the depth point and also a line from B to E and increase from A to H and from D to I ; from E to J is 1/8 inch for increase of depth; from F to K increase a full 1/16 inch, as this part of the waist of garment should in- crease a very small amount ; from G to L increase a full 1/8 inch. Draw lines as shown from 11 and I to T and K to L to make the 38 size. Now mark out the second part, from M," N, O, P, R, S, K, and T to M; from M to T is 3 inches. Draw a line from T against N in order to extend the shoulder line : increase all around 1/8 inch from M to U, from N and V, and from O to W ; from P to Y and R to X is 3/16 inch. Curve as shown on the diagram. Be careful to draw a straight line, which is increased from the breast at O and W, as this space from O to P and W to Y is not increased in height. The increase is only made from the depth up from W up to N and V and U. This completes the second part. To begin part 3, or the inside part of front, mark out the original pattern, A, B, C, D. E, and F up to A; also increase at the side from C to J, D to K, E to L, a full 1/8 inch. From B to X and A to N is 1/8 inch; increase for the height and from .\ and N towards the front to F and Q, also 1/8 inch increased for size 38. In order to get the right point towards the front, draw a line from C against A to make N, as this line gives the original increase for this part of the garment. Begin part 4, or the "front part. Before making the front part we should always look up the increase we have made to all raised parts. Look over the increase that we have made at the back, side and inside part. In order to know the in- crease, we look up carefully each separate part. Side and inside part of front we have increased 1/8 inch. This 1/8 inch should be increased full in order that this 3/8 inch should amount to 4/8 ov 1/2 inch. .\t the inside part of the front we have increased 1/8 inch; this will amount to .5/8 inch. As men- tioned already, we have to increase 1 inch from one size to another to com- plete one size. Now see the outlines that you have to increase. We have increased 5/8 inch, so we have a balance of 3/8 inch left for the front, then place this 3/8 inch from V to A and from W to B for the front increase. Now increase the depth from R to Y ; from S to Z is 1/8 inch towards the front, and from S to O always increase with a snug 1/4 inch, lost to XX with 1/8 inch only. To\\-ards the front from U to C always increase one-half of the amount that is increased between V and A. Make the increased line from Y, Z, XX. C and .\ to B. This completes the fourth part. When grading, be careful to look over each gore to see that it is graded. We must at times grade every part towards the front in order to increase the width, and also one side of every gore is graded. The inside part of front, or part 3, is graded on both sides, as this part of the garment answers two purposes ; first, under the armhole to finish up the increase effect towards the back, and the other, which is the bust increase. This completes the grading of the half- fitting French seam jacket. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 212 213 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 112. HOW TO GRADE A TIGHT-FITTING GARMENT, 36 TO 38. Before commencing to grade this garment cut out all parts separately and mark tliem out on a separate sheet of paper as usual. When commencing to draft lines for the required proportions Ijc careful to have the waist and breast line accurate. We always begin to grade part of the back first, .\ftei having all your outlines marked out separate count them over carefull}- and see how many parts in which the garment is divided. This garment has front and back and two side bodies. This means that this garment is cut in four pieces. Increase at the depth point at the back from A to B and from D to T ; from E to K is 1/8 inch, the same all around from F to L, from G to M and from H to N. This completes the back part, or part one. Begin the side body, or part two, and increase the width 1/8 inch from A, H and I ; from B, T and C to K and D to L. This completes part 2. Now increase part three, or the underarm side body, from F to G, from E to H ; from D to I is 1/8 inch. This completes part three. At the very last we should begin to grade the front part, or part four. Before beginning the front look up the increase that has been made for the raised parts and count the increase in order to know the balance of increase for the front. We should always in- crease 1/8 inch at the side part, which is from B, O, C, P, and D to Q. Count the increase wdiich you have made to all parts. At the back we have 1/8 inch. The underarm side body is also 1/8 inch, and at the side of front we also have 1/8 inch. This means we have increased 1/2 inch, so now we have another 1/3 inch to be increased. All this is allowed at the outside part from I to S, from H to R, and from L to M towards the front or neck point. From L to M we increase a snug 1/4 inch, which is lost with 1/8 inch to K and U and j to T; increase one-half of the amount you have increased from I to S for the width of the lapel. Now follow the breast line for the size 38 out- lines. For all sizes follow the same instructions. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 215 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 113. HOW TO GRADE A TIGHT-FITTIXG FRENCH SEAM, .S(! TO 38. Before we begin to grade we cut out each part separately. This gar- ment consists of five parts. Be careful to have the breast and waist lines in parts as shown on diagram. Begin at the back and mark out all around from A. E, F. G, H, C, B and D up to A; cross lines from the depth point, which makes D tt) E and F; allow 1/8 inch from A to I, E and J ; from F to K same as from H to M : from G to L should be a snug 1/8 inch ; now make a curve from I to J and L to M. This completes the back part. To begin the second part, mark out the original pattern on another sheet of paper ; cross a line from the arm point to B and from B to H ; make a line increase from H to J, and from A to I is 1/8 inch, raised to the arm depth; allow 1/S inch from G to K; from F to L the second 1/8 inch, and from E to AI 1/8 inch. Curve lines as shown from I, J, K. L and !M. This completes the second part. To begin part three, which is the underarm side body, increase at the inside part from D to G and from E to H ; from F to I is 1/8 inch ; curve a line as shown to the breast line. This completes part three. Begin part four, which is the inside part of front ; mark out the original part from A, E, F, D, C and B, all around the armhole up to A ; draw a line from B to the shoulder point in front to E, which makes the increase in front ; then increase from B to G and from C to H ; from D to J is 1/8 inch, and make a line as shown on diagram. Allow at the shoulder for the depth increase from A to I, and from E to L is 1/8 inch. Allow 1/8 inch from E to L all the way down from F to M. This completes part four. Before we commence the outside front part, or part five, we should look over the increase in width that we have made for the raised and gores. We have allowed for the back part 1/8 inch, and for the inside part of back 1/8 inch ; for the underarm body 1/8 inch, and for the underarm side in front also 1/8 inch, and towards the front also 1/8 inch. This amounts to 5/8 inch, which is allowed for the width. We should see that the amount left is increased for the front. In order to make the increase of 1 inch we ha\e yet 3/8 inch left to be increased in front ; allow on the front part from D to H and from E to I 3/8 inch ; cross a straight line from E to H to J for the inside part of this draft, and connect from J against C for the neck point in front an.^ allow for the depth point from A to F ; from C to G 1/8 inch ; from C to G towards the front we allow 1/4 inch, and lost parallel for G to H with a cur\e as shown on diasrram. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNE 216 Lesson 1 1 3 217 THE PRACTICAL DE SIGNER LESSON 114. HOW TO GRADE A SLEEVE. When grading" sleeves it does not make any difference whether the sleeve is cut with or without fullness. The grading is ahva^-s done the same way. Before commencing to grade cut out the top and undersleeve, separate and place them on a separate sheet of paper and mark them out all amund. Commence at the top sleeve and mark out the original top sleeve from D, E, F, G, A, I, B, C and D to H ; H is 1/2 of the inside length ; from D to C, cross a line from M to B in order to have the right increase for the cuff to all sizes; then cross a line from D to A ; N is one-half of A and D ; cross lines out as shown ; F is one-half of the circle between A and D ; G is about one-half of A and F ; E is one-half of F and D ; increase from A to M 1/-4 inch, from I to J is 1/4 inch ; from B to K is 1/8 inch ; from C to L is about 1/2 inch ; now connect with lines all around from L and K to 'M. at the top from G to O and F to P; at F to O allow 1/4 inch lost, as shown on diagram. The increase begins with the same amount as from A to M, 1/4 inch, and always lost at O, as shown on diagram. This completes the top sleeve. The undersleeve is increased the same way. At the outside lap, from R to Y we should have a line drawn from \\' ; from 1^ to Y is 1/4 inch ; in- crease from S to 3, which is 1/4 inch; fromT to 4 is 1/8 inch. Allow 1/2 inch from U to 5 and T to 4 in order to have the same length as the top sleeve. V is one-half of W and U ; cross a line from U to T out to 4 in order to have the right increase at the bottom. Curve the armhole from Z to \V in order to match the curve of the original sleeve. This completes the grading of the sleeve. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 218 Lesson 1 14 219 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER Lesson 1 1 5 HOW TO GRADE A OXE-PIKCE SLEEVE. When grading a one-piece sleeve we have to increase on both sides. When we have a one-piece sleeve complete, place it on a sheet of paper and mark all around from A, F, X. E and D to B ; cross lines from A to D and from B to X. We also cross a straight line lengtlnva}" to. centre of sleeve from F to C ; increase from A to G and from X to M and E to K 1/4 inch ; make a curve parallel from A, L. X and K, and from D to J and from B ta H 1/4 inch. Make the outside lines so as to increase from G to H and from K to J. For all one-piece sleeves the system of grading should be followed the same waA". This completes the grading of the one-piece sleeve. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 220 HOW TO GRADE A BUTTERFLY SLEEVE BLOUSE. To begin, cut out a one-piece butterfly sleeve blouse pattern and place on a separate sheet of paper and mark the line at the back from 1 to 2 ; this is from the neck down to the waist line, and shift in with 1/8 inch from 1 to A and 2 to B ; from B to 3 and C to 4 allow 1/8 inch ; from C to 5 and D to 6 allow 3/8 inch. Now allow at the front from J to 15 and from I to 14, 1/8 inch all the way down; in the front from I to 13, and from H to 12 is also 1/8 inch ; from H to 11 and from G to 10 is 3/S inch ; from O to 1(» and from F to IC, also from X to C and E to 7 is 1/8 inch ; from F to 9 and from E to 8 we allow the same space as we increased from D to 6 and from G to 10, which is 3/S inch parallel from 8 to 9. Be very careful when grading this pattern at the neck part that the neck is increased 2/8 inch, as shown from A to 1, and from J to 15. This completes the butterfly grading. 221 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 117. HOW TO GRADE THE SAILOR COLLAR, No. 1. To begin, cut out the regular sailor collar. Allow 1/8 inch at the center back for increasing the neck part from A to C and from B to D ; from I to H and from M to J allow the length at the front part, 1/4 inch, and lost with the curve from J up towards F and F to X. This completes the grading of the sailor collar. LESSON 118. HOW TO GRADE A STA\'DL\G COLLAR, No. 2. The standing collar should not be increased in height unless for a spe- cial width wanted. The increasing or decreasing should be made at the two ends, which is from K to A, H to B and from J to C ; from I to D 1/4 inch on both sides, which should amount to 1/2 inch, as from size to size wanted. This completes the standing collar grading. LESSON 119. GRADING FLAT COLLAR, No. 3. This collar is also graded at l)oth ends. As this collar is round m shape, we should draw a straight line at the two curved points, which is at A and G. The grading for this collar should be made in such a way that when the neck is increased, or is made for larger sizes, the opening for the inside part of the collar should be larger, and we therefore increase or grade from A to C; from G to E is 1/8 inch, and curved at the broken lines as shown in the diagram from C, K and from E to K paralled spaces of 1/S inch should be increased at the back from C to T The same parallel space of 1/8 inch should be made from H to F and lost from F to X. In the same way you can also decrease this collar for the smaller size. This completes the grading of the flat collar. The grading for any other collars should be followed by the same method. The lapel or short collar should also be graded 1/8 inch on both ends, or if grading at the front part of the collar is inconvenient, then grade 1/4 inch at the back seam of the collar. Collars which are cut out in many pieces should be graded, each one separately, in order to increase all parts alike. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 222 223 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 120. HOW TO GRADE A FIVE-GORE SKIRT FROM 2o TO 26 WAIST MEASURE. Before grading the skirt we first complete the pattern and allow all seams. When all seams are allowed place each gore on a different sheet of paper to be graded. The front of each gored skirt should not be graded. This should remain the same for all sizes and the grading should be only done at the inside parts or gore. \\'hen increasing the side gore, increase towards the back. Always keep in mind the waist and hip measurements needed as the size of the original pattern. Commence to grade, mark out the inside gore No. 2, I, G, H and J up to I ; increase towards the back from I to K : J to L is one-half of the amount to be increased, and the other one-half should be increased at the third gore from O to R and from P to O, as shown on the diagram. Before increasing this amount we should keep in mind the waist measurement needed, as the size of the original waist measurement. Now suppose the waist measurement for this original is 25 inches, this makes 12 1/2 inches half way. Should we want a 26-inch waist skirt, we should also take one-half of this, which makes 1.3. and watch the increase between 12 1,'2 and 1-3. This difference makes 1/2 inch. Allow from I to K 1/4 inch, and from O to R 1/4 inch all the way down. This completes the system of grading for skirts. When many gores are wanted we divide this 1/2 inch into as many gores as are wanted, except the front of the skirt. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 224 Lesson I 20 225 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 121. HOW TO GRADE MISSES' BLOUSE, SIZES 16 TO IS. To grade, cut out the front and l)ack pattern and Ijegin to grade the back first; place the Ijack part on a sheet of paper and mark out the 1)ack from 10 to 11. Shift the back part towards the inside 1/8 inch from A to 10 up from L to 9 ; and from M to H is 1/4 inch ; from M to N is 1/8 inch and from 5 to B is 1/4 inch ; from 4 to 12 is 1/8 inch. After having the back completed it is proper to memorize the amount which has been allowed for the width and length of this part. In the length, which we grade from A to 10, from L to 9 and from M to H, is 1/4 inch, which means an increase for the height or length of waist. Between the two different sizes and width we have graded 3/8 inch, and the outside of T is 1/8 inch ; lietween .5 and B we increased 1/4 inch. In order to begin the front grading we should know how much more is to be allowed in front in regard to the width, also we have to allow for the height. In order to liegin the front we draw a line from 1 to 2 and make the curve to 7 ; now shift the pattern inside from 2 to Z and 1 to X, and from 7 to S 1/2 inch, the it:- crease from 6 to C 1/8 inch. Before we go any further we should see that the grading is sufficient between one size and another. The grading that we now do is to increase from size 16 to 18, which is 2 inches for full width be- tween the two sizes, or 1 inch half way for grading. This means that size 18 measures at Ijreast .'56 inches; size 16 measures at breast 34 inches. In order to know the amount to be graded we should take half of 36, which makes 18, and half of 34, which makes IT. Here we clearly see the space which is graded and which lietween 17 and 18 is 1 inch. Now we have to see if we graded this 1 inch, we have graded 3/8 inch to the back width, we have graded to the front 5/8 inch in width, which is 1/2 inch in front and 1/3 inch to the side. This totals 8/8 of an inch, or the full 1 inch, and completes grading of width in regard to the height, which is increased from the breast line up to the shoulder point. We always follow the proportions between the size, which is 1/4 inch from U to 8 and from O to S, the same as the back part. In order to get the neck part right we should divide from O to 7, which makes S or the middle curve, and curve to 2, which is the front part. When every- thing is completed, finish the curve at the side and waist line at E. Follow the same instructions for this grading for smaller sizes, which should be decreased, as the larger size. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 226 Lesson 121 227 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 122. HOW TO GRADE MISSES' HALF-FITTING GARMENT, SIZE 16 TO 18. This garment liegins the same way as the tight-fitting, the only differ- ence in this garment being that we have to grade each part somewhat more, as the garment has only four parts to be graded. As we have one piece less, which is the underarm piece, the foundation lines are also the same as others and the depth is increased to the same amount as the tight-fitting garment; the increase from E to J, F to K and G to L is a full 1/8 inch. We also increase from O to W, P to Y and R to X. The space from N to V for the shoulder is graded the same way as the tight-fitting. From C to J, from D to K and from E to L; the space A and N down to F and Q should also be graded full 1/8 inch on the front part. Part four should be graded outside, which is left over and is 3/8 inch from V to A and W to B. The depths, which are at part four, are from R to Y and from S to Z, or between B should grade 1/4 inch for misses' size between 16 and 18. Great care should be taken to see if a sufficient amount is graded for the width between 16 to 18, as there is only 1 inch to be graded. This completes this grading. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 228 Lesson I 22 229 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 123. HOW TO GRADE A MISSES' SIZE FRENCH SEAM TIGHT-FITTIXG. Before commencing to grade be very careful to look over the propor- tionate measurements for misses' size. In order to see the difference of increasing between the depth and natural waist length and the width from one size to another and so get the different depths to be made. The depth and waist length should increase in length twice as much as the women's sizes according to the proportionate measurements. Complete the French seam tight-fitting and cut out each gore separately on a sheet of paper and mark them all around. We first start the l^ack part one ; from A to D is the depth point at the back; cross a line from D to E and D up to F; cross an outline from the waist and hip and increase from A to I, E to J, F to K 1/4 inch for the depth raising; now allow on the waist a snug 1/8 inch from G to L and from H to M ; allow 1/8 inch for the increase, then make curves from I, J, K, L and M. This completes part one. To begin part two also have the depth line at B and G; cross a line from B against H, which is the back shoulder point ; from A to I and from H to J is 1/4 inch ; from G to K, F to L, E to M, is also 1/8 inch ; now connect curves I, ], K and L to M. This completes part two. For part three allow inside part from D and G, from E to H and from F to I 1/8 inch. Begin part four, or the inside part of front. After having marked all out on a separate sheet of paper, cross a line from B against E in order to meet the front point for this shoulder; from A to I and from E to L is 1/4 inch; from B to G, C to H and D to J increase 1/8 inch ; increase 1/8 inch in front from L down to M, then look over the gores before increasing the front. We have increased 1/8 inch to five parts of the garment, and we have a balance to be increased in front of 3/8 inch, which is increased from D to H and from E to I and from A to F ; from C to G is 1/4 inch for raising up the depth ; cross line from H and D to J ; cross a line from J against C to make the front neck point at G ; from C to G should be 1/4 inch to parallel curve at H. This completes the fifth part. The total amount for grading between 16 and 18 is 1 inch half way. Follow same instructions for all misses' sizes, grading. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 230 231 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 124. HOW TO GRADE MISSES' SLEEVE.— SIZE 16 to 18. The misses' sleeve is graded the same way as size 36. When begin- ning to grade mark out separately top of undersleeve and decrease from A to M 1/4 inch ; from B to K is 1/8 inch, and from I to J is 3/16 inch, which is the lost part between 1/4 and 1/8 ; from G to O and F to P is 1/4 inch graded. Make a curve as shown on the broken lines from M, O, P lost at Q, if length is increased. Increase parallel space wanted from C to L and B to K ; no increasing or decreasing is made for inside part of the sleeve from D and H to C. The luidersleeve is graded the same way from R to Y 1/4 inch, the same from X to Z ; from S to 3 is 3/16 inch ; from T to 4 is 1/8 inch for increased length to parallel space of 5 and 4. Now change the curve at the underarm for the undersleeve from Z to W, as shown on the diagram. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 232 -•® LESSON 125. HOW TO GRADE A CIRCLE SKIRT. For this skirt we can follow the same instructions as the other skirt. This skirt has no gores whatever, and is not to be changed. Complete the original pattern for this skirt and mark out on a separate sheet of paper. Place the front from A to B against a straight line; from A to E is the hip line. Draw a line from E to O, which is the back part of the waist and in- crease from C to F ; for the full amount of increase in this waist allow same down at the bottom from D to G and draw a straight line. Be careful to change the curve of the waist and begin about half-way from the waist ; from A to F make a curve. This skirt should have seams allowed heiore grading. This completes the grading of the circle skirt. 233 HALF FITTING GARMENT. LESSON 126. HOW TO GRADE MISSES' SKIRT.— SIZE 16. The skirt for misses' size are to be named the same as the jacket for model size. It should be known that the misses' skirt, size 16, should carry the waist and hip measurements of the size 16 jacket. Before commencing to grade complete the gores of skirt needed. This skirt for grading has five gores. Cut out and separate all gores and mark them out on a sheet of paper and do not increase the front in Avidth. Whatever width increasing is needed it should be increased only on the inside gores, the same as size 36 skirt is graded. The front of this skirt is increased in length — it does not remain the same in length. . >■■ The length changes as shown on diagram. Before increasing the inside gores for the width, measure from G to X. The hip space of this size is showing for grading this skirt ; cross a line for both gores from X against I and from Z against O and increase in width from I to K and from O to O as much as is needed for waist measurement. This increase should be parallel all the way down to the bottom from J to T and P to R. The lengthening of this skirt should amount to about 1 inch from B to E, from D to F, from H to Y, from J to M, from N to V and from R to S. This completes the grading of the misses' 16 size skirt. For any other skirt allow in width whatever overbuilt from 16 up to a larger waist, equally separated, and no allowance is made whatever to the front in width The same is to be done in decreasing for whatever size wanted. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 2 34 "^0^- % Lesson 1 26 235 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 127. HOW TO GRADE A JUNIOR BLOUSE FROM SIZE 15 TO IT. Before beginning to grade, cut out the front and back patterns and mark out each one on a separate sheet of paper. We first begin the back part. Draw a line from 10 to 11, following the waist length at the back. Move the back patterns in from 10 to A and 11 to D 1/8 inch; this 1/8 inch is to increase the neck part at the back. In order to go further we should look up the waist and length for the 15 and 17 sizes. In order to see the difference between the two lengths, which is 14 1/4 for size 15 and 14 3/4 for size 17. This is 1/2 inch, the difference between the two sizes. We therefore increase from A up and from L to 9 ; from M to H is 1/4 inch, so from D to 13 and from 4 to 14 1/4 inch at the waist. This means that we have divided or increased this amount, which is the difference between the two sizes, to equal parts ; half at the top and half at the bottom. From M to N is 1/8 inch; from 5 to B is 1/4 inch; from 4 to 12 is 1/8 inch. This completes the back part. To begin the front part : Before we begin the front part we should decide how much we have increased the width at the back part, which should be decided at the breast line. We have increased at T, which is the breast line, 1/8 inch, and from B to 5 is 2/8 inch, which amount: to 3/8 inch. We should know how much there is to be increased regarding the \\idth. For tliis purpose we should look up the breast measurements of the two sizes, which are sizes 15 and 17 The breast measurement of size 15 is 33 inches, and the breast measurements of 17 is 35 inches. We should find the difference of the two measurements, which is from 33 to 35. This space amounts to 2 inches. We should grade half of this amount, which is 1 inch, as we have used 3/8 inch, and have 5/8 inch more to be increased for the front part. Begin to grade the front. Draw a line from 1 to 2 and place the front against this line and make the curve follow the front neck from 2 to 7. Now move the pattern back from 1 to X, from 2 to Z and from 7 to O, then divide the space between 7 and O, which makes S — this is the middle line of the space — and curve S to 2, which is the proper neck part. From O to S and from U to 8 is 1/4 inch ; from 6 to C and from 3 to 9 is 1/8 inch. This completes the increase of the additional 5/8 inch for the front. Increase from 3 to E and from X to 15 1/4 inch for lengthening the waist, just as well as we have increased the back. For different sizes, larger or smaller, in- crease or decrease the same way. This completes this grading. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 236 Lesson 127 237 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 128. HOW TO GRADE A LONG BOX COAT.— SIZE 12. Before beginning to grade this garment we should always complete the pattern. Mark out the back separately, as shown on the diagram. From A, B, C, G, F, E and D, mark lines to breast line from F to B. B is the depth point which is taken off the draft from A to B ; cross a line from B against D in order to get the increase of neck for the back part, also cross a line from B and E in order to get the increase for the shoulder point at the back. Increase for the difference of depth from A to N and from D to M, also increase from E to L for the width of shoulder 1/i inch ; from F to K and from G to J is 3/8 inch; from C to H and from J to I is 1 inch; increase for the length. This completes the back part. To begin the front, mark out the front as usual from E, U, K, O, M, I, H and F. When the front is all complete mark out. We should carefully decide what size we want to be graded from this size pattern. When two sizes are needed to be graded we should first look at the original size of this pattern, which is size 12, and measure 32 inches for bust measurement. In order to get the 14 size we should look for bust measurement, which is 31 inches. The difference of these two sizes is 2 inches, and in order to follow this half way we should make this 1 inch dift'erence. To begin to increase the front increase from K to L and from O to X 1/8 inch, and from E to B and to A is the shoulder part of 1/4 inch. Before we increase the front we look over the increase we have made regarding the width at the back and front side, which measures 1/2 inch. Now we have another 1/2 inch increase, which is allowed from I to J, and from H to D we should increase towards the front one-half the amount between I and J ; from AX to N and from O to P we allow the same for the length, increasing, as we have, at the back in order to get the right increase at C to FI. We should get a straight line up at the front of armhole from W to U and mark the double-breasted front allowance from I and X, which is 3 inches, in order to divide from W to X, which makes \' ; cross a line from U to A and from V against F and H in order to get the right connections for the neck part of this garment. \\'e should grade the place for pocket. The original pocket is shown at the line from R to O. From S and T is shown in a larger size pocket ; from R to S and from Q to T is 1/2 inch. This completes the grading of size 12 bo.x coat and increased for size 14. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 238 Lesson 1 28 239 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 129. HOW TO GRADE A JUNIOR'S LONG CAPE.— SIZE 12 TO 13. Before commencing to grade always complete the pattern and mark out on a separate sheet of paper. Always mark out the back first, as shown on the diagram, from A, D, G and C to B ; cross a line at the depth part from X and G, then connect a line from X against D in order to increase the neck part for a larger size, and increase in height from A and E, for the depth 1/4 inch, and from D to F 1/4 inch. This increase should be carefully made according to the changes of the different sizes wanted. Begin to increase for the width from G to H ; from C to I is 1/8 inch ; from B to Y and from C to J we should increase the length. It can be made to any length wanted. This increase amounts to 1 inch. This completes the grade of the back part of this cape. Begin the front b}^ marking out on a separate sheet of paper as shown on diagram from O, N and M, and from L, T, K and P to O ; then cross a line at the breast from N to T and from N square a line up to the shoulder point. This line originates from the front armhole. Now cross a line from N against the beginning of the neck point at P, and cross a line against K ; now increase for the larger size from O to Q and from P to R ; K to S 1/4 inch, and from N to X and M to U we also increase 1/8 inch. Before we make the increase at the front for this cape we should carefully consider this front, and look at the proportional measurements for the larger size wanted. Grade from this size in order to know the difference in breast measurements. When we have 1 inch difference on the breast between size 12 and 13 we should take one-half of this increase between the two sizes and increase the same from the size 12 up to the size 13, as we have increased the back 1/8 inch; at the side is also l/s inch, consequently we have left for the front 1/4 inch, which is from T to V and from L to W ; from K to S we should always have one-half of the increase, which is made from T to V and from L to W; from L to Y we should increase the length to same amount as we have at the l)ack from B to Y and from I to J. Be careful to keep in mind the size needed to be increased from the ordinary model size. Junior sizes are fol- lowed by single instead of double sizes. This completes the grading of the junior's size. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 240 Lesson 1 29 241 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 130. HOW TO GRADE THE JUNIOR SLEEVE.— SIZES 12 TO 13. Before commencing to grade we should complete the pattern on a separate sheet of paper and separate the top and under sleeve. Mark out the top sleeve from A, H, G, F, D and C to B, then cross lines from D to A and from D to B. At B we increase the difference of width wanted on the size of the bottom of sleeve. From A to H we increase the width of sleeve wanted on the top. First divide the space between A and D which makes E, then square a line up from E and F and from E to G and from E to H. These lines should be straight in order to grade the sleeve as simple as possible. Increase A to I 1/4 inch, lost against M, L and K; from C to K we increase the diiTerence of length of sleeve wanted ; this increase amounts to 1 inch, which is finished at J. This completes the top sleeve. Mark out the undersleeve on a separate sheet of paper, then cross a line from A against C; this line produces the width of bottom of sleeve; at D increase first the length of this sleeve from B and E, and from G to H the same amount as on the top sleeve. Increase a line from A against B ; from B to E is 1/4 inch all the way down lost equal to the bottom; from G to H is the same space. This completes the undersleeve curve. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 242 LESSON 131. HOW TO GRADE A OXE-PIECE SLEEVE.— SIZES 12 TO 13. After having completed the one-piece sleeve, mark out sleeve on a sep- arate sheet of paper, as shown on the diagram from A, B, C, E and D to G; now square lines from C to A and from E to B ; increase from A to H 1/4 inch; from E to K is 1/4 inch, also from B to I ; C to J is 1/4 inch. Curve all around as shown on the diagram from H, ^l. L, K and J from C to J ; from F to N and from B to I is the increase of length followed by the out- lines according to the fullness of the larger sleeve wanted ; also curve from I to H the same way as on the other side from K to J. This completes the one-piece sleeve grading. 243 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 132. HOW TO GRADE A JUNIOR'S FIVE-CORE SKIRT.— SIZE 12. In beginning to grade be careful to cut out the gores belonging to this skirt. This skirt shows five gores, including the front, which is not graded in width. The width for skirt should be graded for side width of gores, mean- ing all gores except the front. Increase the width from I to K and from O to O before commencing to grade ; measure from G to the hip line and from L down to the hip, and cross lines from X to I and from Z to O. These lines show the increase in height, at the same time when increasing the waist allow this amount ; which increases the waist all the way down to the bot- tom from K and T and from Q to R. For junior skirts we also increase the length of skirt, as shown on the diagram, to all parts of the skirt, also the front from B to E and D to F, from H to Y, from T to M and from N to V ; from R to S allow 1 inch for lengthening the skirt. The length of skirt can be increased to any amount wanted. This completes the grading for the size 13 5-g:ore skirt. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 244 LESSON 133. now TO GRADE A JUXIOR'S CIRCLE SKIRT.— SIZE 12. This skirt has no gores whatever and can be graded. After having the draft all complete, the grading can be placed on the same sheet of paper. Before commencing to grade draw a line from the hip deepness, which is from A and E against C. Xow increase the difference of waist from C to F and allow the same space all the way down parallel to G and H ; from G to H and from B to I is an increase of 1 inch, the difference in length. Follow the perforated line as shown on the diagram. This completes the grading of the circle skirt. 245 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER Special Measuremerits THE PROBLEM OF SPECIAL GARMENT CUTTING. The use of special garment cutting for women is still misunderstood tor many reasons. The majority of tailors who make special garments to order fail to understand the use of special garment cutting, and clothes are cut carelessly, and the result is that after the garment is complete it is use- less. The fitting of ladies' garments particularly requires the knowledge and familiarity with a system of special garment cutting. But this part of the knowledge is not generally known to those who make use of garment cut- ting; so, therefore, garments made by them are not fashionable, being mis- fitted and crippled. Another reason why these garments do not fit is because those who cut them have no system and are not familiar with the fashion of all sorts for ladies' garments, which are as follows : Half-fitting, 3/4-fitting, 7/8-fitting, or a very full garment, which is called a box coat. It is understood that in these are many failures of the ladies' tailor- made garments. I have, therefore, prepared a set of twelve measurements for ladies' garments in such a way that they cannot fail to prove the build of all kinds of forms as: Normal, stooping, slim, erect and stout forms. We need no complicated rules for this measurement, only a tape meas- ure is necessary. Anyone who follows the instructions will be able to take a correct measurement. They are transferable to anyone who can cut garments by a special measurement system and will be useful for this pur- pose. These measurements are planned on the style of musical notes ; that is, anyone who can cut by a system of special measurements can also read the build of a form when measurements have been taken. The build of the form will be distinctly shown by the measurement, and these measurements will indicate the build of the form as follows : The full or flat chest, small or large waist, small or large bust, small or large hip, also regular or over-built back, short or long side length, short or long natu- ral waist length and front waist length, short or long back or front, straight or round back, square or sloping shoulders, short or long neck, or if the fig- ure is short, slim, erect, stout or normal. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 246 These sections of the form can l)e seen by carefully looking over the measurements after they have been taken. It is understood that this re- quires a little practice in special garment cutting', in order to know the use of every measurement which is taken, as follows: The first measurement we call the front depth — this measurement gives us the build of the form in front and shows us whether the form is long in front over the chest and high at neck. The second measurement is called the arm blade — this meas- urement gives us the width of back; it also shows us if the width of back is round. This measurement carries a great responsibility for the size needed as regards the chest, that is, if tlie arm blade measurement is over-built or increased, and the front decreased. Should this lie the opposite wav, the arm blade measurement should be a very narrow one. and means that the chest of this garment will be a very large one. It should be known that if the arm blade is very large, according to the size, that this means a round back. Regarding a correct understanding of what we call over-built for this size, I explain as follows : The regular arm blade for size 36 is about 32 inches, which means one-half or 11 inches. If the measurement should be 23 inches or 11 1/3 inches, one-half of it, it means 1/2 inch over-built from the regular arm blade for 3G size. It should Ije understood that this increased arm blade means an increased width of back. The third measurement is called back depth. This measurement gives us the depth in back from the neck to the bottom of the armhole. The fourth measurement is the natural waist length. This measurement gives the correct length in back from the neck down to the hollow of the waist. The fifth measurement is the full length of the coat from the neck in back to the length of the garment needed. The sixth measurement is the chest. This measurement gives the guide for the size of garment by which it is regulated. The seventh measurement is the bust. This measure gives the full extent of the bust increase or the fulness of the bust. The eighth measurement is the waist. This measurement is taken over the small- est part of the waist and gives the idea whether the waist is over-built for the size wanted and how much it is over-built. The ninth measurement is the hip. This measurement is to show if the hip is full, medium or flat for its regular measurement. The tenth measurement is the inside slee\e length from underarm to waist. The eleventh measurement is the side body from underarm down to the waist length on the side. The twelfth measurement is the long waist in front from the socket bone (or from the back collar but- ton) to the long waist in front. This measurement will show how much the waist in front is lower than tiie natural waist line, or how nuicli tlie form is French waisted. For further instructions see the diagrams and rules of taking special measurements. 247 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER THE RIGHT WAY TO TAKE SPECIAL MEASUREMENTS. In taking a customer's measure it is absolutely essential that the per- son feel perfectly at ease in every way. The measure should be taken over a shirt waist or blouse. No jacket should be worn when measurements are taken. It is understood that special measurements cannot be taken without a corset. When taking measurements it is proper to see that the person stands in a natural position, in order to get the proper measurements of the way the person is built, otherwise the pose will inevitably and imconsciously result in a misfit, causing trouble and unpleasantness. PjC very careful in measuring to place the 'tape close to the body — neither too tight nor too loose — and see to it that the tape is not slanting. The success of special garment cutting depends greatly on the balance, which the measurements alone can ascertain. It is, therefore, necessary that the body of the person should be in its natural pose when the measurements is taken. I must again impress upon you the necessity of so arranging mat- ters so that the person keeps her body in its proper pose while measuring as there are a great many whose natural build is somewhat sloping, and who will stand erect, which should be avoided, during the act of measuring. The measurements according to this system is taken, without excep- tion, alike for all garments. In order to make it practical, it is proper to memorize the names of the measurements and also to know the number of measurements as follows : The first measurement, which I call front depth, is taken from the center of back at A, and taken all around at the front of armhole towards the back and again up to A. The second, which is arm blade, is taken the same way as the front depth, and from A around towards the back to the center to B. Third: Back depth from A to B. Fourth : Natural waist length from A to C. Fifth : Full length of garment from A to D. Sixth : Chest is all around I to E, which is size of garment. Seventh: Bust is taken all around at F. Eighth : ^^'aist is taken all around at G. Ninth : Hip is taken all around at N. Tenth: Inside sleeve length is taken from I to J. Ele\enth : Under arm is taken from I to K. Twelfth : Front waist length is taken from the center of back at A ddwn to the front to G. This completes the measurements for the up])er part of the body for all kinds of jackets, blouses, waists or dresses. For skirts take measurements as usual — waist, hip, front length, side length and back length. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 248 ■lC''*^J '^"k 249 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 137. Xo. 1.— HO\\- TO DRAFT A JACKET BY SPECIAL MEASUREMENTS. The art of cutting garments by special measurements are of great use to all who cut garments for all kinds of builds, \^'hen drafting be careful to make use of all measurements that are taken. To save trouble check off all measurements that are used, so as not to have any mistakes ; also memo- rize the names of measurements to know which measurement vou are using. For this draft measurements are as follows : Front depth 28 inches. Bust 40 inches. Arm blade 25 inches. \\'aist 36 inches. Depth Ti/o inches. Hip 4.3 inches. Natural waist length... 1.5 inches. Inside sleeve length.... 18 inches. Full length 28 inches. Under arm length ' inches. Chest 38 inches. Front waist length 22 inches. Begin to draft. From A to B is 7 1/2 inches depth; from A to C is l-") inches natural waist length ; from C to D is 6 inches hip length ; from A to E is 28 inches for full length. Before crossing the lines place the under arm length 7 inches from the waist line up to the breast line, and from C to F this under arm length measure gives a test for the depth from A to B ; this under arm length shows if the depth is being taken short or long for the body measure. Now divide the space which is left between the depth and side length, which makes G. Cross all lines from A. G, C, D and E, and measure on the hip line from D to H, which is 1 1/2 inches; and on the waist line from C to I is 2 inches ; then cross lines from H to I and from I to A. This is the body or guide line for the fitting from where all measures begin, and J is the depth point on the body line. Measure from J to K, 25 inches for arm blade, which makes 12 1/2 inches ; from K to M is only 3 inches. Bear in mind that the chest measure is the size number. Draw a line from M to N ; from N to P and P to O, which is one-sixth of size, or 3 1/8 inches. Cross a line from M to O up to R, this is the front depth line ; then place the front depth measure 28 on the size number on the scale, or 14 inclies, which is half of 28 ; from M to O and R take off one- sixth of size for the back neck at A to ^' and from R to O. Point Q shows that the form for which this measure was taken is somewhat short in front. This amount of shortness in front is shown on the draft at front depth point from Q to O. This special outline distinctly shows the build of the body according to the measurements. Now draw a straight line from O to S, which is one-sixth of size, following the line of O and P. Now cross a line out from S to T, which is also one-sixth of size, or 3 1/8 inches for a 38 size. This outline shows the change of neck made according to special measurement. Cross a line from O to J as this line is the foundation for the front shoulder. I THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 250 Lesson 1 37 251 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 138. No. 2.— SPECIAL }iIEASUREMEXT DRAFT. This draft sliows another operation of the special measurements in a different build. The measurements are as follows: Front depth 29 inches. Bust 40 inches Arm blade 23 inches. Waist 2G inches. Depth 71 •> inches. Hip -12 inches Natural waist length. . .1.3 inches. Inside sleeve length.. .. 18 inches. Full length 28 inches Under arm length .... 6H inches Chest 38 inches. Front waist length 23 inches. Now begin to draft. From A to B is 7 1/2 inches depth measurement : from A to C is 15 inches natural waist length ; from A to E is 28 inches full length of coat ; from C to D is 6 inches hip length. Before crossing the breast line measure the under arm length up from the waist length C to F, then take one-half of F and B, making G, and cross a line from G for the breast line ; also cross all other lines as ustial. Make the body line and measure on the hip line from D to H 1 1/3 inches; from C to I is 2 inches; now cross a line from I up to A and down to H ?nd 46. Begin to work the arm blade on the breast line from J to K, which is half of 23 arm blade, or n 1/8 inches; from K to M is 3 inches. Draw a line up from M to N; from N to P is one-sixth of size from P ; cross a line up to O and measure one- sixth of size : then cross a line from M to O up to R and apply the front depth measurement, which is 29 inches on halves, or 1-1 1/2 inches from M against O. When marking the correct neck point at the front we first take oft' from R to O one-sixth of size for the back of neck, which is at A. Now cross a line from O to J to make the front shoulder and see the increase at the front neck point from O to O ; then cross a parallel line from O to S and measure one-si.\th of size : from S to TT is also one-sixth of size with a seam allowed. Make the width of back and divide from G to K. which makes 9 ; from 9 to 10 is 1 1/4 inches: cross a line from 10 to 12; from A to W is one-sixth of size ; from A\' to ^' is 1 inch. Cross a line from Y to 12 out to 13 and square a line down from 13 to 10; this makes the width of shoulder and back. In order to get the front shoulder measure first, the back shoulder from \' to 13 and apply the same amount from O to U. Measuring the bust from T to Y is half of bust measure and from V to Z is 3 inches for seam. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 252 Lesson 1 36 253 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 139. No. 3.— SPECIAL MEASUREMENT. This diagram completes Lesson No. 2. From H to 23 is one-sixth of size of chest measurement and 1 to 15 is 1 inch less than H to 33 ; from 15 to 16 is 1 inch ; from 23 to 24 is 3/4 inch. Now cross a line from 16 to 24 and 16 to 9, also from 15 to 9 and to 23 down to 45; then divide from 10 to 12 making I I Cross a line out to 14 and make a little curve from 13 to 14 for the back part ; from K to 4 and from L to 30 is 3/4 inch ; cross a line from 4 to 30 to make 1? on the waist line and divide between 1' and 16 to make 8 ; also divide between 4 and 9 to make 7 ; from T to 47 is 1 inch up ; now cross a line from 47 down to 7, 8 and 20, and take out both sides from 8 ; 3/4 inch to 18 and 19. Allow both sides of 20 on the hip line 3/4 inch at 21 and 22; cross lines from 18 to 22 and 19 to 21 and from 18 to 19 up to 7; then allow from L to 26, 1 inch; and from 30 to 25 also 1 inch; cross from 17 to 25 and from 2 to 26 ; from 17 to 2 is always 1 inch; at 4 towards the front is always 1/4 inch. Now we measure the waist line in front for the front waist length measurement, which is 23 inches, and first take off one- sixth of this size allowing 1 inch less for seams, and apply the balance from Q to 3, which makes the long waist line in front. Supposing we have these 23 inches for front waist length we look up first the size of chest of this gar- ment and take one-sixth off for the back neck and measure from the centre of the back when we take these measurements. If this one-sixth of the size amounts to 3 1/8 inches, we take off 1 inch for seams which leaves a balance of 2 1/8 inches. Taking 2 1/8 inches from 23 inches leaves a balance of 20 7/8 inches. Measure this 20 7/8 inches from Q to 3 and cross a line from 2 against 3 out to 5 ; from Z to 1 is always 1 1/2 inches. Cross a line from TTto X down against 1 to 5, 6 and 39, and divide the chest part between M and X, making 28 ; take this space between X and 28 and place the same from 1 to 27 ; then cross a line from 28 against 27 down to 36; 31 is the long waist line ; from 31 to 32 is 1 inch ; from .31 to 33 is 3 inches. Divide between 28 to 31 which makes 29 and connect lines on both sides of 31 from 29 to 32 and 33 down to 34 ; from 36 to 35 is 1 inch ; cross lines from 32 to 35 down to 37, and place a square to the line frim 32 to 34, and square a line down to 38. Now curve all parts at the waist and hip, as usual, and lengthen all gores lost from the hip and follow carefully the hip curves by lengthening. Be careful to have all lengths from hip to the bottom line in order. To begin we measure the straight line from I to 46 at the back and place the same length from 15 to 45, from 16 to 44, from 19 to 42, from 18 to 43, from 17 to 40, from 2 to 41, from 34 to 38, 32 to ;K and 5 to 39. This part of the gar- ment should be curved the same as any other tight-fitting garment. After liaving this diagram complete, test the armhole for the special sleeve meas- uremnt draft, ^^'hen beginning test, place a square line to the back line from 10 to 50 and cross a line towards the front with a full one-half seam; lower at the back shoulder point at 13 and cross with a line to the front arm- hole which makes 51. Measure the space from 50 to 10 on thirds, which shows 36 on thirds, or (i inches. This shows the top of sleeve or depth of the armhole. Now measure for the width with a cross line from 13 to 51, also on thirds, which gives 38 width measurement for the sleeve on thirds, or 6 1/2 inches. \\'hen beginning to draft the sleeve for this armhole keep in mind the two measurements, and also remember which of these two meas- urements is the depth of armhole and the width of armhole. The natural sleeve notch is shown pointing out at M, and no other notch is necessary. Tliiscompletes the special measurement draft. \\'hen cutting any other style half-fitting or box coat, the same meas- urements and rules should be applied. This garment is also cut with seams same as all others. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 254 LESSON 140. No 4— HOW TO CUT BY SPECIAL MEASUREMENTS WITHOUT SEAMS ALLOWED. When beginnint;- to draft draw lines, as usual, and use the same meas- urements. The measurements fcr this garment are as follows: Front depth 28 inches. liust -11 inches. Arm blade 23 inches. Waist 26 inches. Back depth T inches. Hip 43 inches. Natural waist length 1-") inches. Inside sleeve length 18 inches Full length 21 inches. Under arm length 8 inches. Chest all around 38 inches. Front waist length 23 inches. To begin to draft draw lines from 1 to 4 ; from I to 2 is 7 inches back depth ; from 1 to 3 is 15 inches natural waist length ; from 3 to 4 is 6 inches hip length; or from 1 to 4 is 21 inches full length. Now cross all lines from ], 2, 3 and 4; from 4 to 5 is 1 1/2 inches; from 3 to 6 is 2 inches. Draw lines from 5, 6 and 7 up to 1. Measure the arm blade from 7 to 8 which is 23 on scale, or 11 1/2 inches. Draw a line up from 8 and down to 9 and 10; then take half of 7 and 8, which makes 11. From 11 to 12 is 3/4 inch. Draw line up to 13 ; from 1 'to 14 is 1/8 of size, or 2 3/8 inches for this size, or chest measure. It should be known that for special measurement we use the chest measurement as a size number for all parts of the garments ex- cept the bust and the other special measurements. From 14 to 15 is 1 inch. Draw the shoulder line from 15 to 13; 16 and 12 is the same as always. From 8 to 31 is one-eighth of chest, or 2 3/8 inches; from 32 to 33 and from 33 to 34 is also one-eighth of chest. Draw a line from 31 against 34 and measure the front depth, which is 28 on the scale, ^jt 14 inches; from this 14 inches take off 2 3/8 inches for the back of neck, which is at I to 14, and take this ofif at 35 to 36. Draw^ a parallel line from 35 to 37 parallel with line 33 and 34; from 37 to 38 is one-eighth of chest. Measure the bust from 7 to 39, which is 41 inches, or half of it, 20 1/2 inches. From 5 to 18 is one- eighth of chest; from 6 to 17 is one-twelfth of chest; from 17 to 20 is 1 inch : 255 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER from 20 to 9 take half, which makes 21; 19 is half of 11 and 8. Draw a line from 19 down to 21 and 22; on both sides of 21 to 24 and 25 take out 3/4 inch; on both sides of 22 allow 1/2 inch to 26 and 27, and cross lines from 19 to 24 and 25. Cross lines from 24 to 27 and 25 to 26; from 9 to 53 is 1 inch; from 40 to 42 is 1 inch. Now measure the front waist length from 35 to 41. ^^■hen measuring the front waist length take ofif one-eighth of chest, which belongs to the back neck, or begin to measure from 36 to 35 and down to 41, which is 23 front waist length. Now make the dart in front and divide the chest and take out the same amount as usual. For the French seams follow the same as always and do not allow for seams. From 10 to 57 is 3/4 inch, and from 10 to 58 is 1 inch. The allowance in front for a dart on a tight-fitting is 1 inch. For a half-fitting garment, 1/2 inch. The front waist length is always followed by special measurement. When drafting without seams be very careful to see that the back depth and natural waist length should be taken very snug in length. This completes the special measure draft without seams allowed. A Sleeve Without Seams Allowed. — When a sleeve without seams is wanted, use the same outlines ; but. in order not to have the sleeve too full according to the size or measurements wanted, use the depth and width of sleeve one size smaller, as the measurements and this will give the sleeve without seams. The inside length for the sleeve should be followed by the measurements as usual. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 256 Lesson 140 257 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER A STUDY OF SPECIAL GARMENT CUTTING. These two figures show the differences between prportional and dis- proporticnal. No. 1 shows the straight development of the proportionate form. The back of this form is built as straight as possil^le and the bust is situated the proper way with straight lines. The waist effect is also built in proper place straight down to the hip line. The sitting form of Figure No. 1 is as straight as possible, and is noticeable between the line crossing lengthwise and the parallel space, also the waist space of the sitting depth of the liip across the front. Figure No. 2 shows a disproportionate build with round back, or round from the socket bone down to the hip, and broken in front, and makes the front effect short from the neck down to the waist, and which gives the back depth from the socket bone down to the breast line very long, and the front neck down to the breast very short. These two figures point out the use of special measurements and give the difference between the proportional and disproportional method. I have, therefore, pre- pared a system of special garment cutting which will serve the purpose for cu.tting garments for all kinds of disproportional and broken figures. For further instructions see the special measurements for drafting. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 258 LESSON 14L HOW TO CUT THE SLEEVE OF SPECL\L MEASUREMENTS. Before commencing' the draft for the special sleeve, we need to look up the depth and width of the armhole, which is taken off from the draft for this sleeve. The special sleeve carries three (3) measurements which are as follows : Depth of armhole ...36 inches. Width of armhole ;!S inches. Inside sleeve length 18 inches. Begin to draft. From A to B is 36 on thirds, or 6 inches ; now cross a line A to F; then measure from A to F, 38 on halves for the width of sleeves. Measure from B to D for the inside length of sleeve. Divide the elbow line between B and D which makes E, and cross all lines and meas- ure from D to I, the width of measurement 38 on hahes, the same as you have measured from A to F, and cross a line up from I to F. Divide .\ and B, which makes C; from G to V is one-twelfth of depth length, which is 36 on twelfths, or 1 1/2 inches for this size. Cross a line from \' to C and divide, which makes T. Cross a straight line down from T to U and divide, which makes the Star. From T to X is always 1 inch for the under sleeve. Now divide D to I, making J; from J to K is 2 inches; from H to N is 1 inch space. Now cross a line from K against I ; from I to O is 1 inch ; from O to P is also 1 inch; from G to S is 1/2 inch. Now cross the inside line for the under sleeve from O to N and N to G, and for the top sleeve cross a line from P to H and from H up to S ; from K connect a line to E, which is the top sleeve. From K to L is 1 1/2 inches, and from E to M is 2 1/2 inches. Now draw a line up from L to M and from M to X ; from X to W is 3/4 inch, and one seam towards the armhole. Lengthen the luider sleeve from O to O and from L to R, with the same amount as the straight line from the bottom, which is built out at I to Q and amounts to about 3/8 inch. From O to Q parallel to R, which is the under sleeve. Now make a top curve with a circle by the star between T and U. The starting of this curve should be made from V to C. The under sleeve curve should begin at W and T down to G. Curve the breaks at the elbow at E, M and N and H. This completes the special measurement sleeve. This sleeve is cut without anv fulness; should you want a sleeve with fulness, the only change we have to make is to build the width of the sleeve on the two-thirds between A and F and D to I instead oi using half divisions for the sleeve witliout any fulness. 259 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER THE l.MI'ORTANX'E OF FITTING. The fitting of ladies' garments requires great confidence. To become an expert fitter it requires many real experiments. In order to give a cor- rect theory I have prepared this lesson to aid the beginner and enlighten those who are somewhat ad\-anced and to gain the confidence which is par- ticularly needed for this action. The first time you try on a garment }-<>u act very awkwardly, inex- perienced ; and get excited easily. You are afraid to place your hands on the garment to be fitted. In your excitement you do not know where to begin. At last you start to pull the garment up and down. You dance around the person like a kangaroo and get through in a hurr}'. The result is that the garment is put out of shape altogether. The measure might have been taken correctly and the pattern cut accordingly, but the garment is ruined when the fitting is not done properly. The majority who do fitting fail to think this matter over and to see to the best advantage the reason that they are not familiar with the easiest and most certain rectifications necessary in an ill-fitting garment. It is a bad -policy to tell your customers that "the garment will be all right," when it is not so. Naturally, the inex- perienced fitter is in a hurr\- and thinks that he can make the garment fit perfectly when the customer is gone. No ! Never do that. Fit the garment to perfection. Look up every part of the garment. See to its proper length and fitting part, decide what sort of fitting the garment is supposed to have when it is made up, and never mind how long it takes. It is much wiser than to have many fittings and have 3rour customer call a dozen times for fittings and get the customer tired and disgusted with the whole job. To fit a garment properly you must have patience and be sure to have all your changes marked on the garment or on an alteration blank. It is also the duty of the fitter to make the changes in order that the tailor should understand the alteration marks, because if alterations are misunderstood by the tailor the result will be that the garment will be a misfit and the same alterations will ha\-e to lie made again. Abox'e all, you must have full con- fidence in yourself. Special Notice. — Td sa\e trouble of making many fittings, do not take the garment a])art when fitted. Leave it in one in order to see the proper hang of it until the fitting is finished. All marks for the alterations should be made with soap chalk. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 260 Shirt Waists and Dresses 261 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 142. THE SHIRT WAIST. To begin the shirt waist we use the measurements as always. The measurements for this waist are as follows : Size 36 inches. Depth 7 inches. Bust .39 inches. Natural waist length. . .I.tIA inches. Waist 2.5 inches. Inside sleeve length.. . .IS inches. To begin we draw a line from A to D and from A to S ; from A to B is 7 inches depth ; from A to C is 15 1/2 inches natural waist line ; from C to D is 6 inches below the waist length ; from B to G and from D to E is two-thirds of size, or 12 inches; H is one-half of B and G; from H to I is 1 1/4 inches. Draw a line from I to J, which gives the width of back line; from A to K is one-sixth of size, or 3 inches ; from K to L is 1 inch up for the neck curve. Now cross a line from L against J to AI, and square a line down from M to meet I. This connection between L and M to I should be made with the square, in order to meet all points at the same time from L, J and M to I. By doing this we do not have to measure a certain width for the shoulder, as these lines produce the width of shoulder for any size wanted. jNIake the body line from D to Z, which is one-twelfth of the size, or 1 1/2 inches ; from C to X is 1/2 inch more, or 3 inches ; crjiss a line from Z to X and from X to A to the neck point. Now begin the front ; from G to F is one-sixth of the size, or 3 inches. This part of the garment is the same for all sizes above 36, and is 3 inches. For smaller sizes than 36 this part should be followed with one-sixth of the size. Cross a line up from F to O ; from Q to P is always one-sixth of the size ; from P to O is also one- sixth of the size ; from P to R is one-sixth of the size, and from R and S allow one seam ; from S to Y is 3/4 inch up. Curve the neck in front from O to Y and cross a line for the front shoulder from O to T. This line pro- duces the front shoulder. Before measuring the front shoulder be sure to measure over back shoulder from L to M, and place the same amount from O to U for the front shoulder. Connect U to F and measure one-half of the bust from T to V which is 39 inches, and from V to W is 3 inches for seams ; also connect a line from Y against \\' down to 12, which is the bot- tom part of this front. \Mien completing the same lines from \' to W cross a square line down to 11, in order to have the increase f(ir fulness from 11 to 12, divide the space between I and G, making X. Cross t. square line down froin X and 4 ; for both sides of N take out 3/4 inch ; at ] and 2 and THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 262 142 both sides of 3, which is on the waist Hne, take out 2 inches ; at 5 and 6 divide the space between 3 and 4, which makes 7 ; now cross lines from 5 to 7 and 6 to 7, and connect the Hnes between 5 and 7 to 3 inches, making 8 ; the same way between 6 and 7, making 9. Curve the front from 8 and 11 and 12, which is the bottom part of this front; also curve the back part from 9 to 10 ; from X to 10 is -i inches. Begin to curve at the back of neck from A and L over the shoulder to M, for the armhole from M to 2, and from 1 against G up to U. The front shoulder from U to O and from O to Y is the front of neck part ; also shape the sides as shown on the diagram. This completes the shirt waist. If a broader back is wanted, divide the armhole from I to F and take out the same amount, or see the Butterfly Blouse. 263 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 143. THE SHIRT WAIST WITH A SIDE RODY. This garment is drafted the same as the regular shirt waist. This gar- ment only changes with the side body. After having all outlines complete, take from G to 1 and from E to "?, 3/4 inch ; and cross a line from 1 to '?. This space between GI and E2 is not used. Now divide from X to 3, mak- ing 4; from 4 to .^> is 1 1/2 inches, and (i is half between 4 and 5. Cross a line down from 6 to 9; from I to 16 is 1 1/4 inches; cross a line up from '! to 16 and 17, and divide the hip space between C and D and 41 to E, which makes 7 and 8 : also cross a line from 7 and 8 and at both sides of 9, which makes 10 and 11, and allow 1/2 inch; then cross lines from 10 to 4 and from 1 1 to 5. The side seam for this shirt waist is the same as the first shirt waist. This draft also shows a dart in front in case it is wanted. For this dart we first divide the chest from F to ^\' and take one-half, which makes 21). and measure the space between W and 20 and place from 31 to 21 on the waist line. Before making this space on the waist line divide 14 and 1.5 to make 31 ; 15 is the square line down when seams are all allowed, and 14 is the extension line from the neck against the bust down from Y and W to 14 and 12. Now make the line half way between 14 and 1.5. From 31 to 21 is the space of W and 20. Now cross a line from 20 against 21 down to 30 ; from 15 to 61 is 2 inches for long waist line; 19 is the long waist line and centre line for the dart; from 19 to 22 is 1 inch; from 19 to 23 is 2 inches. Divide from 19 to 20, which makes 25, and connect lines from 25 to 23; again from 35, 23 and 27, and ciu've this dart from 39, 35, 22, 36 and again from 25, 23, 27 and 28. The space between 27 and 28 should be the same as from 22 to 26. Connect with a curve from 22 to 26 out to 13 and 18 to 12, and curve the sides, as shown on diagram, from 4 to 10 and 5 to 11. The hip'^ are, as usual, from 2 to 8 and from 51 to 24. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 264 3U 23 Lesson 143 265 HALF FITTING GARMENT. LESSON 144. now TO CL'T A I.IXIXG WITH TWO IWRTS TN FRONT. Regin this draft the same as usual. Tii order to begin the two darts in front we (hvide the space from G to 9, which makes A2. Now divide from R to 1, which makes Al, and cross a hne from Al to A2, and measure from .\1 to .\;i. which is 5 1 '2 inches; from .\:) to .\l is 3 inches; also from 2 to Y is 2 1/2 inches, and from Y to 12 is •'! inches. This draft is taken originally from a blouse. In order to get the two darts we should increase from \" to 1. 1 1/2 inches; and connect a line from R against 1 down to 2. The space between 2 and XX is not used for this fitting. Cross lines for the darts from .\:"! to Y. and from .\4 to 12; from Y to X is 1/4 inch; from Y to 1] is 1/2 inch; from 12 to i:! is 1/2 inch, and from 12 to 11 is 2 inches. Xow connect cm-vcs fri^nn .\;i to X and 11, and from .A4 to i:i and 14 down to ].">. Increase l"i with a jtarallel line opposite to 1:1. and tinish u]i 15 to n with a curved line. The back of this garment is the same as the blouse. Cur\e from X to :> out to X\. and fri^m 2 to :> is about 3/4 inch This comidetes the diagram. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 266 Lesson 1 44 267 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 145. THE PRINCESS DRESS. To begin the princess dress we first draft the outlines of a tight I'rencn seam fitting and complete the draft to be cut out. \Mien all gores are marked out draw a straight line down at the back from A and B to C : then cross a line down from D down to E. \Mien drafting these lines for making the length of the princess we should commence the increase for the length from the hip line ; at the same' time we have to look out that the bottom of this draft is neither too narrow nor too full. \\'e also have to decide the length of this draft from the waist line to the ground on the side ; from the waist to the ground in front and from the waist line down to the ground in back. The proportionate lengths from the waist to the ground should be 44 inches in back; on the side 42 1/2 inches, and in front 41 inches. Xow cross all lines down from the hip, as shown on the diagram ; from A to C is 44 inches ; from Y to E should be 1/2 inch less, or 43 1/2 inches. Make the same length from X to G at the first side body, and from Z to 7 make 1/2 inch less, which is 43 inches. Make the same 43 inches from T to J, and from 2 to M measure the side length, which is 42 1/2 inches, and apply the same 42 1/2 inches at the front hip from 3 to O. Now we apply the length for the front from R to S, which is 41 inches. At the inside part of this front from T to U measure 1/2 inch more, which is 41 1/2 inches: also from V to O is 41 1/2 inches. Be very careful to increase the lines down by lengthening from the finishing at curve of the hip. The length in front from R to S should be made straight ; also the front from P to Q should be as straight as possible. When all curves are complete meas- ure over the bottom for each gore separately, and see to it that the iDottom of this garment does not measure more than the double amount of the lengtli in back from top to bottom. The length of the dress should be .59 1/2 inclies. This garment has all seams allowed. If a half-fitting princess lin- ing is wanted, use the half-fitting outlines and follow the same instructions. For a closed back and front or front and back panels see Lesson 39. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 268 T.esscn 145 2&9 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 146. HO\\" TO ALLOW PLEATS OX A P.LOL'SE. When pleats are wanted on any two-piece garment, like a blouse, ciil out the front and back pattern, as shown, and begin the back first. Place the back pattern on a separate sheet of paper and allow for pleats just as much as is wanted from A to 1 and from D to 2. The amount which is al- lowed should raise up to the back of neck from 1 L. The amount for pleats can be allowed exactly. If three pleats of 1/2 inch are needed in back, allow from A to 1 and from D to 2, 3 inches. Allow double amount for pleats. The pleats should always cross at the shoulder seam. The front part is worked in the same manner. To begin mark out the front all around from O, U. 6, 9, X and Z to O. From Z to 3 and from X to 4 allow 3 inches, or the same amount as allowed on the back part, and raise the allowance in front up to the neck point opposite O ; then curve the bottom from Y to X as shown on the diagram. When pleats are placed in proper place on the front or back cut out the curves of the neck as shown on the original pat- tern. This completes this diagram. LESSON 147. PLEATS ON BLOUSE WITH A YOKE. If a yoke is connected with a garment where pleats are needed, as shown on the diagram from R to IT. draw a line across from R to 18 and connect with a curve from 18 to 17. The back is made the same way. The yoke is cut across from T to 15. The fulness is allowed from T to 16 and D to 2. The seams should be allowed for both top and bottom when a yoke is attached or cut for such garment. The round curve at the back from 15 to 16, and on the front from 17 to 18, is allowed or prepared so as the lower part can be trimmed ofl'. The pleats are gathered up for the lower parts of this garment. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 270 Lesson 128 271 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 148. CRIXOLIXE CUFF. This cuff is connected to a short sleeve for dresses and shirt waists The beginning of the outhne of this cuff is the same as usual. Begin to draw a line from A to B, which is about 12 inches, for the regular width and 1 inch more for seams. Xow take one-half of A and B, which makes G and draw a straight line up from A to DG to H and B to C. The width from A to D and B to C is 10 inches ; from A to F and B to E is 6 inches. Cross a line from E to F, and the space between F and D and E to C is left over a 4-inch space. Take on both sides of E and F 1 inch, making E to K and E to J ; also from F to M and from F to L. Connect all these to I with curves, as shown on the diagram, from A to X, and from B to O is 1 inch: then connect from X' to M and from O to K up with straight lines ; from G to S is 1 inch space and make a curve from XS to O, from D to P; from C to Q is 1 1/2 inches space. Xow connect this straight line from O to J and from P to L ; from H to R is 1 inch and curve OR to P. This will com- plete this cuff". If a continuation narrow cuff" is wanted, draw a line out from H to T, which is about 4 inches, and draw a straight line across at T and measure from T to U ; from T to V is o inches on each side. This is the front part of the narrow cuff, which amounts to 10 inches, and after seams are taken off the front of this cuff will measure clear 9 inches. Xow connect U to O and V to P and cut out this cuff. Cut the two inside parts at the curved lines, as follows: From X. ^I, I, K, O and S to X and from L to P, R, Q, J and I to L is the narrow front cuff and is the frcmt part from P to \" and R to T and O to L'. This front part of the cuff" can remain also in one ])iece witli the inside part at U, R and P. all seams liein'.:. allowed. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 272 Lesson 129 273 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 149. HOW TO DRAFT A CUFF. To begin draw a line from A to B, this .*hall be the amount for the cuff which is about 12 inches and one more inch for seams, which is altogether about 13 inches. Now take one-half of A and B, making C. Now draw a line up from A B and C. from C to D fe 3/4 of an inch. Now niake a curved line from A to B to D. From A to E. from D to F, and from B to G is the width of the cuff which is about 4 inches. This vridth for the cuff can be changed in regard to the style or taste. Now make a curved line from E F to •G the same as the line belo*. From E to 1 and from G to H is 1 inch for extending the width of the cuff on top part. Now connect a line from A to I and from B to H and make curves at I and H as shown on the diagram. From A to K and from B to M is 1 1/2 inches allowed for the bottom face of this cuff and curve the bottom line from K, L to ]\I as shown width the broken line. The diagram this bottom face must not be allowed if this cuff is sewed on to the bottom of tliat ~leeve. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 274 LESSON 150. THK HIGIJ-STAXDIXG COLLAR. This cnllar tiegins the same as ihe ordinary stand in, ;.;■ cnllar. Draw a hne from B to D, which is the full size of the collar, 14 inches, and allow 1 inch more for seams. E is half between 15 and D. Raise the line up from II to A, E to F and D to C ; from B to A and from I) to C is about '■'> inches for the regular height ; from B to H and D to I is 3/1 inch. Connect with round curve from H to E and from I to E; from .\ to K and from C to J is 1/3 inch. Draw straight lines from H to K uj) to P and the same from I to J u]) to R; from K to P and J to R is 1 inch in height. T is half of the space between A and F, and S is also half between I'" and C. Begin U> make curves from f^W to F. and from 1' up to \' and lost at I^. This completes the high-standing collar, with all seams allowed. This collar is used for shirt waists and dresses. 275 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 15L :\iissES' r. LOUSE. This l)louse Isegin? with the same foundations as all others. Fellow according to the regular propdrtions ( f size Ki. The measurements for th's size are as follows : Back de])th fi% inches. Bust -u inches. Natural waist length.. .15 inches. Waist 2:! inches. Size of chest 34 inches. Hip 40 inches. iSegin to draft by drawing a line from A to \\' and from .\ to C: from .\ to 15 is 6 3/4 inches; the hack depth and from A to C is lo inclies for r.atural waist length. Now draw lines across from A to W, and from R to R and C to V. Measure from B to G, and from C to E is two-thirds of size, or 1 1 3/8 inches. Draw a Dline up from E to G and divide between B and G, which makes H ; from H to I is 1 1/4 inches. Draw a line up from I to J, as usual, and from A to K is one-sixth of size, or 2 7/8 inches for this size, and from K to L is 1 inch. Cross a line from L and J to M, and square a line down from M to I, as usual, for the width of the back and. shoulder. From G to F is one-sixth of size, or 2 7/8 inches. Cross a line from F to Q and from Q to P; from P to O is also one-sixth of size, or 2 7/8 inches; from P to W is one-sixth of size with one seam allowed. From W to Z is 3/4 inch, as always; from C to 8 is 2 inches. Now draw a line up from 8 to A and connect a line from O to T, which gives the front shoulder. Measure the space at the back shoulder from L to M and place the same at O to U and connect a line to F for the front arm. Now measure half of bu.st from T to S, which is 18 1/2 inches for this size, and from S to R is 3 inches allowed for seams. Extend a line from Z against R down to the bot- tom to XX and divide the space between I and G to make N. At both sides of N to 5 and 6 take out 3/4 inch, and cross a line down from N to 7 ; both sides at 7 to 4 and 9 are 2 inches. Now connect lines from 4 to 5 and 9 to (i, which completes the side seam. Shorten the waist length 1/2 inch for the blouse from 8 to D and E to 9. The waist length should be shortened witli a full seam from the full waist length. Now connect a line from 9 to X ; from y to X is one-sixth of size, or 2 7/8 inches for this size, and curve up from X to XX with 1 inch from the straight line, as shown on the diagram. Now shape the armhole. .\11 seams are allowed. For the tunic skirt see instructions for size 36. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER Lesson 146 277 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 152. JUNIOR BLOUSE.— SIZE 15. The measurements for this are as follows: Breast 3-3 inches. Back depth 6% inches Bust 35 inches. Natural waist length. . . 141/4 inches. Waist 341/^ inches. Inside sieve length 16% inches. Hip 39 inches To begin to draft draw a line from A to W and A to D ; from A to B is 6 5/8 inches back deptli, and from A to C is 14 1/3 inches natural waist length. Now draw lines across from A, B and C; from B to G and from C to E is two-thirds of size, or 11 inclies for this size. Cross a line from E and G to U, and divide B to G, which makes H ; from H to I is 1 1/4 inches, as usual. Draw a line up from I to make J ; from A to K is one-sixth of size, or 2 3/4 inches ; from K to L is 1 inch. Now connect from L and J to M a square line down, as usual. This completes the width of back of shoulder. From C t oS is one-twelfth of size, and 1/2 inch more allowed amounts to 1 7/8 inches. Draw a line from S to A ; from G to F is one-sixth of size, and from Q to P and from P to O is also one-sixth of size ; from P to W is one-sixth of size with seam allowed, or W to Z is 1/2 inch for the neck raised up. Connect the front shoulder from O to T and take tlie- back shoulder measurements from L to M, measuring the same amount from O to U. For the front shoulder connect a line from U to F for the front of armhole. Measure from T to V for half of bust measurement, which is 17 1/2 inches. From V to X allow 3 inches for seams. Now ex- tend a line from Z against X to R ; from X square a line down to Y, and divide the space between I and G at the center of armhole, making 2 ; from 2 to 3 is 1 inch, N is half of N. Square a straight line down from N to 1 and 8 ; at both sides of 1 to 4 and 5 take out 1 1/2 inches, and connect a line from 2 to 5 and 3 to 4; Y is one-sixth of size, or 2 3/4 inches below the waist line in the front. Now connect a line from 4 to Y out to R ; from R to 6 is 1 inch curved up. This completes the blouse. If a hip allowance is wanted for this blouse, as shown with the broken lines on the diagram, allow lines below the waist line from D to 7, which is one-twelfth of size, or 1 3/8 inches, and connect from 7 to S on both sides of 8, 9 and 10, which is 1 inch; also connect 9 to 5 and 10 to 4, the front line from 6 and R straightened down to 11. This space between S, 7, 5 and 9 and 4 to 10 and 6 to 11 is one-third of size, or 5 1/2 inches. Complete the same as shown on the diagram. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 278 Lesson I 5 2 279 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 153. CHILD'S PRINCESS DRESS.— SIZE G. Begin this draft as usual. Measurements to be followed according to proportions of size 6. Draw lines from A to R and A to E ; from A to ]', is the back depth; from A to C is natural waist length; from C to D is the hip length, which s one-third of the size, and from A to E is the full length of the dress. From D to ZZ is one-twelfth of size, or 1 1/8 inches, and the space from C to X is 1/- i"ch additional, which is 1 -5/8 inches. From B to G and from D to G is two-thirds of size, or 8' 5/8 inches. Now cross lines from G to U and F, then divide B and G, which makes H ; from H t;_o I is 1 1/4 inches ; from A to K is one-sixth of size ; from K to L is 1 inch. Square lines for the shoulder from L against J to make M and connect with a line to I, which connects the shoulder width and height of shoulders; from G lu N is one-sixth of size. Draw a line up from N to O ; from O to P is one- sixth of size ; from P to O and P to R is also one-sixth of size, and allow one seam, which is 3/8 inch ; from T to V is one-half of breast measurement ; from V to W allow 3 inches for seams. Draw a line down from W to Y ; from R to S is 3/4 inch, which is raised up in front for a high neck. Now connect a line from S against W down to XI, which is the straight line in front for this dress. Divide the space between I and G, which makes 5, and from 5 to 4 is 1 inch; then take one-half of 4 and 5, which makes 1. Draw a line down to the hip line, which makes 3. At 2 is the waist line between 6 and 7; from 2 to 6 and 2 to 7 is 1 1/2 inches. Now connect lines from 4 to 6 and 5 to 7 and from 6 to 3 and 14; also connect a line from 7 to 3 down to 1.5, which will make the side seam for this garment. When this side seam is all completed begin to make a French seam on the middle of back shoulder. Divide from L to M, which makes 16, and divide X to 7, which makes 8 both of sides 8, and take otit 1/2 inch, which makes 10 and 11. Draw a line down from 8 to the hip line, which makes 9, and cross lines from 10 and 11 against 9 to connect a straight line from 11 up to Ifi and from 10 round a line up to 16, which is connected at the breast line at H. Now draw lines from li) against 9 down to 13 and from 11, also against 9. which makes ^2. This comjiletes the back. The French seam at the front we divide, also the shoul- der half-way between Q and U, which makes 17; from Y to XX take one- half, which makes Z. Now divide the chest, which is from N to W, also take the space of \\' and V from Z to 18 on the waist line; then draw a line from V against 18 down to 19. Now divide from 18 to V, which makes 20, and connect with a curved line from 20 up to 17; from 18 to 21 is about 1/t inch. Draw line from 20 against 21 down to 22. This space between 19 and 22 is 1 inch, which is thrown out, as we have no use for this amount. From AX to Al is 1 inch longer in front. Connect from XI with a curve to 14. This completes the front part. In order to make the back of this garment without the center seam at the back, take ofif from 11 to A.\ 1 inch and con- tiect from .A A up to 16 and down to 12, as shown with broken lines on the diagram. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 280 LeSson 153 281 THE r i{ A C T 1 C A L DESIGNER LESSON 154. CHILD'S SLEEVE.— SIZE 6, WITHOUT ANY FULLNESS, FOR 2G- INCH BREAST. To begin, draw a line from A to I"" and D; from A to B is one-third of size, or 4 .^/S inches. C is one-half of .A and B; from B to D is 11 inches for inside slee\-e length; E is one-half of B and D ; E is the elbow line. Now cross all lines from A, B, E and D, and measure from A to F and from D to I, half the size, or 6 1/2 inches. Cross a line from F to I ; from G to V is one-twelfth of size, or 11/8 inches. Cross a line from C to A' and take half of this space to make T. Draw a square line down from T to U and half between, which makes the "Star" ( '■■ ) From T to X is 3/4 inch; from X to W is also 3/4 inch ; from G to .S is 1/2 inch and from H to M is 1/2 inch. Take half of D and I to make J ; from J to K is 1 1/2 inches. Draw a line from K to I, O and P; 1 to O is 1/2 inch, and from O to P is also 1/2 inch, then draw a line from O to N and G, and from P to H and S. The line at O should reach to O; the space fmm O to O sliould be the same space as from L to R; from K to L is 1 inch ; from F to AI is 2 inches. Now con- nect lines from K tu F and R and M up tn \\' and draw a line from R to O, which is the inside sleeve. Now cur\e the top sleeve from C to V and com- plete the curve from \' to S. The undersleeve is from \\' to T and G; at \\' is a mark with seam allowance, and all seams are otherwise allowed. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 282 LESSON 155. GRADING RULES FOR SHIRT-WAIST SUITS AND DRESSES. The grading for dresses should be followed for the upper and under part separately, meaning that the blouse should be graded according to the regular rule of grading, wliich has no connection with the lower part, and which is the skirt. No changes are made when grading as regards the connec- tion of theblouse with the skirt. The rule for grading all different sizes can be found in each instruction or diagram separatel)% which is in the list of con- tents. The grading for the lower part — which is the skirt — is also graded in- dividually, which for all sizes can also be found in the list of contents. When grading for the lower part — which is the skirt — is also graded individually, which for all sizes can also be found in the list of contents. When grading a one-piece dress, use the same method as for grading a tight-fitting French seam lining, \^"hen increasing or grading the lower parts of the tight-fitting lining the same space should be graded all the w-ay down — which is graded around the hip. No special allowance can be made regarding the width at the bottom. The abore rules will serve the purpose for all sections, which are : women's, misses', juniors' and children's dresses. Grading for separate shirt- waists is about the same as for blouses, which are to be found on the different pages. 283 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 156. HOW TO GRADE A CHILD'S l'.LOUSE.— SIZE 6 TO 8. To begin to grade cut out the model pattern size 6 and see that the proportion of the next size to be graded at the space is size 6. From size 6 to size 8 — breast, waist, hips, back dei^th and natural waist length, is the measurement. The first measurement we use is the depth and waist length. In order to find out how much to increase in height look up the space between the two different waist lengths, then place the cut-out back pattern on a sheet of paper and draw a line at the back from l(t to 11, which is shown on the broken line, and move the pattern in 1/8 inch from 10 to A and 11 to D. On the top allow from A to 10 and from L to '.) ; M to H is 1/4 inch, as this is the difference between the two sizes. From AI to N is also 1/4 inch; from .J to B allow 1/4 inch, which lengthens the waist length from 10 to 13. This completes the back grading. Now begin the front grading. The front should begin from the front edge. Draw a line from 1 to 2 and |)lace the front pattern to the line and mark the neck curve up to T, then shift the pattern back frcmi 1 t(j X, 2 to Z and '^ to O to allow the 1/2 inch ; from O to S and from U to 8 is 1/4 inch. Mark around armhole. From fi to Cand from 3 to 9 is 1/8 inch. Now mark the bottom curve. From 9 to E is 3/4 inch; from X to 15 is 3/4 inch. Now curve the bottom from E to l."J, which com|:)letes the blouse grading. Sec if you have allowed the difference of the two sizes between size G and 8, which is 26 and 28 breast. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 284 156 285 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 157. HOW TO GRADE A CHILD'S BOX COAT. The beginning of this grading' is the same as for Junior's size. We first cut out front and back pattern. To grade from size 6 to size S begin to grade the back part and increase the difference of depth between A and X, D, M and E to L. The Hue from B to D will increase the neck part. For larger sizes from X to M: from E to L towards the armhole is 1/8 inch, and from F to K and from G to J is 1/8 inch. Xow increase the length for chil- dren's sizes by 2 inches, which is from C to H and from J to I, and begin the front part of grading from Y to Z and from O to X which is 1/8 inch ; from B to E is the front shoulder. From .-X increase to same amount as you have increased for the back shoulder, which increases about l/i inch. The same space should be increased at the front of neck from F to C and H to D. X'ow increase from I to J all the way down to X to the bottom 1/-1 inch. From H to D use only half as much as in the breast from I to J. The length of this front should be increased to same amount as the back part. The pocket for children's sizes is also graded larger and deeper, according to the size. The regular pocket is Q to R ; the pocket for larger sizes, which is from 6 to 8, should be a half lower, and is shown from T to S. This com- pletes this grading. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 286 Lesson 157 287 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER ■J ® LESSON 158 HOW TO GRADE A CHILD'S TWO-PIECE SLEEVE.— SIZE 6. Before commencing to grade complete sleeve and cut out separately. Place each part of the sleeve on a separate sheet of paper and mark out care- full)^ We first mark out the top sleeve, as shown on the diagram, from A, B, C, D. F. G and H. When the sleeve is all marked out cross lines from D to B and from D to A ; these lines show an increase for top and bottom of sleeve. Now divide from A to D to make E and cross lines out from E, G, F, H ; from A to I is 1/4 inch lost to L ; from B to J and from C to K increase 1 inch for the length of sleeve, and connect a line from J to K. This completes the grade of the top sleeve. To begin the grading of the undersleeve, mark the undersleeve the same way on a sheet of paper from A. B and C to D ; then cross lines from A to C and from A to E ; from B to E is 1/4 inch, from C and D to J is 1 inch, which increases the length of sleeve. The length of sleeve should be increased the same for both top and undersleeve alike. Now connect from E and I to J. This completes the grading of this sleeve. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 159 CHILD'S OXE-PIECE SKIRT GRADING. •,nd <= Jm ^^?i" ""' ""^ ^^^ P^"^''*? ^""^ P^'^'^^ °" ^ separate sheet of paper and see that the measurements ot the original pattern regarding- the waist to the hip are correct also see that measurements for the larger sizes which vou are to grade are half of the waist and half of hip towards \he back, as shown from C to F and from D to G. The line from E to C shows the raisin., up at the back part for the waist from I! to I and G to H. Increase the skirt length 2 inches for children. 289 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 160. THIi TABLE FOR ALL KLXDS OF DIVISIONS. The tal)le I have prepared for all kinds of divisions is to serve as a time saver for figuring. This table is useful for dividing any amount, large or small, which will help to divide the width of gores to any amount of inches, also which helps to simplif}- the use of the scale method. Regarding all kinds of divisions it will please those who are not willing to carry their instruments witli them. There is a scale for every division. When a certain division is wanted, for instance, we divide the bottom of the skirt by about 15 gores. In this case we take half of 1.5, which makes 7 1/2. Leave the front ofif all the time. Now look for the width of the bottom of the skirt, which is about 4.5 inches. Look first on the divisional table 45 inches; then look for the amount of gores, which is 7, on the top line of this table, and come to the connection of two mmibers, and you will find the amount each gore should measure on the bottom. The same rule is used for dividing the top part of the skirt which is the waist ; look for the amount of the draft and see how nianv parts vou would like to have the amount divided into. THE PRACTIC AL DESIGNER 290 TABLE OF ALL KINDS OF DIVISIONS. Vi y» '/3 !4 1/5 1/6 1/7 1/8 1 /9 1/10 1/12 '2— 6 4!/i 4 3 2 1 /2 2 1 3/4 Ij/; 1 1/4 11/8 1 ~" '3— 61/2 47/g 4J^ 3=J^ 2 5/8 2 3716 VJ/A \% 1 3/8 1 3/16 1 1/32^ '4-7 5% 45/g 31/2 2 7/8 2 1 /4 2 13^ | |/2 | |/ 4 11716" 15-71/2 55/8 5 35/8 3 21/2 2 1/16 "Tr« \H ■ X I >3 ~ 16—8 6 534 4 3 3/16 2 5/8 2 1/4 2 13/4 13/8 1 3/16" 17— 8/2 6^8 5^8 414 3 1/2 2 3/4 2 3/8 2/g 11/8 13/8 11/ 4 18-9 6% 6 4/2 3 5/8 3 2 1/2 214 2 13/4 T17 2~ 19—9/2 7/8 61/8 4^ 3 3/4 3 3/16 25/8 2/8 21/8 17/8 15/8 " 20—10 7/2 6/g 5 4 3 1/4 2 3/4 2/2 2 1/ 4 2 I 5 /8~ 21-10/^ 75/g 7 5!4 4 3/16 3172" 3 2/8 2 3/16 2 1/16 1 3/4 22-11 814 7/8 5/2 4 3/8 3 5/8 3 1/8 23^ 2 3/4 2 1/6 I 7/8~ 23—11/2 8/2 754 534 4 5/8 3 3/4 3 1/4 2/g 2 1/2 2 3/16 2 4 7/8 4 3 3/8 3 2 5 /8 ~2 1/4 2 1/16 25-12/2 y/8 8/8 6/4 5 3/16 43/16 3 1/2 3/r 2 3/4 2 3/8 2 1/8 26—13 93/4 83/4 6/2 5 3/8 4 3/8 3 5/8 314 2 7/8 2 1/2 2 3/16 27-13/2 lU/g 9 6/4 5 5/8 41/2 3 3/4 334 3 2 5/8 2 1/4 28—14 10/2 9/8 8 5 3/4 4 5/8 4 3/2 3 1/16 2 3/4 2 3/8 29-14/2 lO/g 9/4 7/4 5 7/8 4 7/8 4 1/8 35/« 3 1/8 2 7/8 2 1/2 30—13 11/4 10 7/2 6 5 43/16 3/4 3 1/4 3 2 1/2 3I-I5/2 11/8 103/8 7/4 63/16 5 3/16 4 1/4 3/8 3 1/2 3 1/16 2 5/8 32—16 12 103/4 8 6 3/8 5 3/8 4 1/2 4 3 1/2 3 1/8 2 5/8 33— 1 6/2 123/4 11 8!4 6 5/8 5 1/2 4 5/8 4/g 3 5/8 3 1/4 2 3/4 34—17 123/4 11/8 8/2 834 6 7/8 5 5/8 4 3/4 4/4 3 3/4 3 3/8 2 3/4 35-17/2 13/8 11/4 7 5 7/8 5 4/8 3 7/8 3 1/2 2 7/8 36—18 13/2 12 9 7 3/16 6 5 1/8 4/2 4 3 5/8 3 37— 1 8/2 13/8 123/8 9/4 7 3/8 6 3/16 5 3/16 45/r 4 1/16 3 3/4 3 1/16 38—19 1414 1214 9/2 7 5/8 6 3/8 5 1/4 434 41/8 3 7/8 3 1/8 39—19/2 145/8 13 934 7 7/8 6 1/2 5 1/2 4/r 4 1/4 3 7/8 3 3/16 40—20 15 133/8 10 8 6 5/8 5 5/8 5 4 3/8 4 3 1/4 41—20/2 153/8 133/4 10!4 8 3/16 6 7/8 5 3/4 5/8 4 1/2 4 1/16 3 1/4 42—21 153/4 14 10/2 8 3/8 7 6 5/4 4 5/8 4 1/8 3 3/8 43-21/2 16/8 143/g 1014 8 5/8 7 3/16 6 1/8 53/r 4 3/4 4 3/16 3 3/8 44—22 I6/2 143/4 11 8 7/8 7 3/8 6 1/4 ^V?. 4 7/8 4 1/4 3 1/2 45—22/2 16/8 15 ii'4 9 7 1/2 6 1/2 554 5 4 3/8 3 1/2 46—23 17^ 153/8 11/2 93/16 7 5/8 6 5/8 534 5 1/8 4 1/2 3 5/8 47-23/z 175/g 153/4 1134 9 3/8 7 7/8 6 3/4 5/8 5 1/4 4 5/8 3 5/8 48—24 18 16 12 9 5/8 8 7 6 5 3/8 4 3/4 3 3/4 49—24/2 183/8 183/4 163/8 1634 12!4 12/2 9 7/8 83/16 7 1/8 7 1/4 6/8 6'4 5 1/4 5 5/8 4 7/8 5 3 3/4 50—25 10 8 3/8 3 7/8 51-25/2 19/8 17 1234 103/16 8 1/2 7 3/8 6/e 5 3/4 5 1/16 3 7/8 52—26 19/2 173/8 13 10 3/8 8 5/8 7 1/2 6/2 5 7/8 5 1/8 4 53—26/2 54—27 19/8 2014 1734 18 13/2 13/2 10 3/4 10 7/8 8 7/8 9 7 5/8 7 3/4 6/8 634 6 6 1/8 5 3/16 5 1/4 4 1/16 41/8 55-27/2 205/8 183/8 1334 11 93/16 7 7/8 6/8 6 1/4 5 3/8 41/8 56—28 21 1834 14 113/16 9 3/8 8 7 6 3/8 5 1/2 41/4 57—28/2 213/8 19 14'4 113/8 9 1/2 81/8 7/8 61/2 5 5/8 4 1/4 58—29 213/4 193/g 14/2 11 5/8 9 5/8 81/4 7V4 6 5/8 5 3/4 4 3/8 59—291/^ 21/8 1934 1434 11 7/8 9 7/8 8 3/8 7/8 6 3/4 5 7/8 4 3/8 60—30 21/2 20 15 12 10 8 1/2 7/2 6 7/8 6 41/2 291 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER LESSON 161-162-163. SYSTEMATICAL OUTLL^ES FOR BODY SKETCHING. The s3-stem of body sketching" is a guide for fashion work. The body BH sketching is not to be followed up in sizes or in other measurements. The "* ' system we use for this purpose is a certain space which is 1 or 2-inch box, and which we call a square outline or a square space. The life model space which we use is 4 1/2 inches. The system for this work is to memorize the square spaces or to find how man}- spaces are to be used. For instance: If three-fovu"ths, one-half, or one-fourth s])aces are to be used. If the diagram or sketch is to be followed by 1 inch body, then follow 3/-i, 1/2 oi 1/4 inch for less than full spaces. Natural waist length should be three spaces or boxes. This means from the neck to the hollow of waist. The space which is to be used for the width can he clearly seen on the diagram. For the skirt we have 8 1/2 spaces, or S spaces net in front from the waist down to the ground. The additional half-space is to be used for raising up the belt of the sketch in the liack. The width space is also shown on the diagram. The additional shape or fullness for the bottom of this square can also be added when wanted. It is proper lor every one who makes a stud}' of designing and gar- ment cutting to have a little knowledge of the proportional outlines for sketching upper and l>nver body — mpqning waist and skirt. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 294 295 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNii.i< PHILOSOPHY OF CORRECTIONS PHILOSOPHY OF CORRECTIONS ON DESIGNING AND GARMENT CUTTING. 1. Drafting is the first iu-tion in order to get t'le principal outlines tor tjie builds. In this action we find suitable needs in order to build liases for our models. Drafting for the model size is built according to full par- ticulars of a proportional sample size wanted, which is situated according to the height. The connecting garment to this size — meaning skirts to be drafted according to the waist size X)i either branch. Drafting by special measurements are followed according to their measurements without having anything to do with any size number, or height division — meaning strict s])ecial measurement drafting. A careful study is always needed in using special measurements, in order to make corrections that are needed. As a rule, practical people will always find corrections to their special measure- ments. 2. Before commencing to draft a proportional garment be careful to study the height of the person, and all measurements that are connected with the height ; as depth, side length and natural waist length. When cutting for a short built person the measurements for depth, side length, natural waist length, and also sleeve, should measure short. When cutting for a medium height, all length measurements should be medium in length. When cutting for slim persons, all length measurements should be long, according to the regular maesurements. 3. When the measurement of the chest is larger than the bust we use the chest measurement for the bust and the bust measurement for chest. 4. The pocket should always be placed for short jackets 3 inches below the natural waist line in front. For long coats the pocket should be placed 3 inches below the waist for all kinds of lengths, as the natural waist length is alwa3's followed out by the height of the figure. Regarding the stj'le of pockets there is no rule. The size of large or low pockets for jackets is 1/2 inch, more than one- fourth of the size. For a 36 size this amounts to 5 inches. The breast pocket is 1/2 inch less than one-fotu'th of the size. For 36 size this amounts to 4 inches, such as top garments, automobile or rain coats. These pockets are to be made larger. The size of large pockets should measure 6 inches, and the size of the small pocket or top breast pocket should measure 5 inches. Patch pockets should always be cut larger than others. The depth of patch pockets should be carefully considered, and to have them at least 2 inches more in length than they are in width. The slantmg pockets are to be made according to the style wanted. 5. Pleats and vents for coats should not be cut or taken oft' at the natural waist line, as it makes the garment look too short-waisted. Such pleats should begin at least 2 inches below the natural waist length, unless the garment is to be cut short-waisted. Where pleats are to be separated they should be allowed on the pattern and notched on the bottom of the coat in order to know how much is to be allowed for the pleat. Short pleats should be equally allowed all the way down. Skirt pleats should begin at least :; inches lielow the waist, so as not to increase the waist belt with the fullness of pleats. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 296 6. Special attention is called to those who cut stout .garments. The armhole should be extra lar,L;e in size, and 1/2 inch depth should be made from the breast line. The neck should be deeply curved, and stand collar should be cut with a very short stand. Jackets for this should only be cut with a single-breasted front and 1 inch button stand, as the double-breasted makes the stout form very clumsy looking. The skirt for a stout form should he cut in very few gores. 7. The width of sleeves may Ije used according to the style wauled. The top fullness for sleeve must be carefully followed for style wanted. The top of sleeve can Ije changed to any width wanted. In lenglhening or short- ening the sleeve be careful to liave the elbow one-half of the inside sleeve length. iS. The bottom width for all kinds of coats must be systemized to suit all lengths. When cutting a short coat, about :iO inches long, the bot- tom for the coat should measure twice as much as the length ; and tl^e double measure of the bottom should measure 60 inches. If a narrow bottom is needed, make it somewhat less. The regular bottom for skirts should be '^ yards all around. If a skirt with pleats is wanted in this case decrease the bottom of the skirt. \\'hen increasing or decreasing this skirt be careful to make the changes on both sides of everv gore. 9. The first or proportional length for jackets is 18 inches. To con- tinue all other lengths alwa_\s add 6 inches. To increase any other propor- tional length add 6 inches and 18 inches, making it 24 inches in length; then add 6 inches to 24 inches, making 30 inches in length, and add (i inches to 30 inches, making 36 inches length ; add 6 inches to 36 inches, making 42 inches in length; add 6 inches to 42 inches, making 48 inches in length; add 6 inches to 48 inches, making 54 inches length; add 6 inches to 54 inches, making 60 inches. In order to get any size of length wanted, as threc-roL.rtlis length, one-half length or one-fourth length, we first look for the full length, vvHich is 60 inches, and take one-half of this, wdiich is 30 inches. This amount is known as the medium length. To ger onc-iourth length we should first get the shortest length, which is 18 inches, and count from 18 to 30, which is 12 inches. Now take one-half of 12, which is 6, and add 6 to 18, which makes 24 inches for a short length for jacket. To get the three-fourths length look for the one-half length, which is 30 inches, and take one-half between 30 and the full length, which is (lo inches, one-half between 30 and GO makes 15, and add 15 to the medium length, which is 30. making 45 inches for three-fourths length coat. It is understood that the full length should measure 60 inches. In case 60 inches for the full length is too long for some garments, take 6 inches less in order to make this length somewhat shorter, which will make a seven-eighths length. 10. How to find the width of back for different ways of taking meas- urements. The width of back can be found in man}- ways, as follows : As to size of breast measurement, as to armhole build, and as to direct measure- ments. The most practical way is to follow the measurements according to the size of breast, as the breast mcasuv-ement is followed according to the build of the form. The direct measurement for the width of the back is absolutely useless, as the width of back cannot be taken according to any garment worn by some people, as all the garments are cut with a different width of back, therefore we cannot get the width of back measurements by any other means. Use the width of back measurement for regular size, ac- cording to the size of breast, and for special size according to the system of special measurements. 297 THE P K A U T i C A L DESIGNER n. How t'l svstemize the darts for all garments: Before commenc- ing to draft look over the style, in order to find what sort of fitting the gar- ment is supposed to have. In case it is a tight-fitting garment always allow 1 ]/2 inches in front on straight waist line. If a half-fitting garment is wanted alwavs allow 3/4 inch in front on the straight waist-line for the dart. If there is no dart no allowance should be made. Any allowance would only increase the front. For top garments allow the same amount for the dart. A 14 and 18-gore fitting is followed according to the tight-fitting garments, A 14-gore garment should carry 2 darts in front, and the space between darts should be 2 1/2 or 3 inches. At the first dart we should take out 1/4 to 1/2 inch. At the second dart, which is the inside part, we should take out 1/3 to 2 inches. The 18-gore garment should carr}- 3 darts in front. The space lietween these darts should be spaced equally 2 inches from the outside pare of front. The darts for the 18-gore should be curved toward the side body. At the first dart we take out 1/4 inch, at the second dart 1/2 inch, at the third dart, which is the inside dart towards the side body, we should take out 1 1/3 inches. Further instructions for this garment are to be found in the follow- ing pages, where such garments are shown completely on the diagram. Iv. How to systemize all sleeve lengths: The regular sleeve length is known as 18 inches for side length. I shall explain how the sleeve length can be followed according to the size and according to the height, to make it a proportional length for sleeve. According to the size, take one-half of breast, which is IS inches, and, according to the height, we should take one- fourth of height, which is 16 1/2 inches for 5 feet 6 inches height, and 1 1/3 inches more makes it 18 inches sleeve length. This proportional sleeve length can be followed the same way as length for all sizes. For smaller sizes we always make the sleeve short. For larger sizes we can follow the propor- tionate measurements, which are to be found in these pages. A three-fourths length should measure 13 1/2 inches; a one-half length sleeve should measure 9 inches, and a one-fourth length sleeve should measure 4 1/2 inches. 13. The reversible garment is cut full and always followed by box coats or blouse garments. The collar for such garments are cut in one, on front and back. No side seams needed. When placing the side seams on top of each other, take ofl: 3/4 inch. For long coats or capes, open cloth in order to be able to cut this garment the width of cloth. For these garments we must have a seam in the back, as the width of cloth is not sufficient. The sleeve for these garments should be cut in one piece, including the cuff. It is also possible to cut a reversible long coat without a seam in back, if cut across for the Empire Style. 14. Button stands should be allowed according to the style of gar- ment wanted. All sinffle-breasted tieht-fittinti' jackets should carrv 1 inch button stand. It does not make any dift'erence in how many gores the jacket is cut. Single-breasted one-half fitting jackets should have 1 1/2 inches but- ton stand. The Hy front jacket should have 2 inches button stand. Double- breasted jackets should have 3 inches button stand. Eton or blouse jackets can carry any style of button stand. Top garments or other coats or capes should have more button stand to lap over the jacket. The button stand for single-breasted top garments should l)e 2 1/2 inches, with or without the fly front. Double-breasted top coats and automobile coats should have 4 inches button stand. Double-breasted rain coats should carry 3 inches button stand For coats that button up to the neck follow the rules of single or double- breasted fronts as above mentioned. Button stands are not to be changed for anv size. The same stands should be used for all sizes. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 298 15. Length of garmeiils on a fashion-plate. If you wish to find the length of garment remember the natural waist length, which is 15 1/2 inches, then take a narrow strip of paper and place it to the waist length on the back of the fashion-plate and mark the paper from the socket bone to the waist line, then see how many times this space measures below the waist line. If only once more, the length of the garment should be 31 inches. If only half as much, the length should be 23 1/4 inches. IG. Lengths for jackets and coats for women's size should not lie changed any for different sizes. For misses' size change 1/2 inch when grading larger or smaller size. For junior size change 1 inch in length. l''or children's size change 2 inches in length when grading for larger or smaller sizes. IT. Length for dresses on women's sizes are not to be changed. For misses' size change 1 inch in length. F"or junior sizes 1 1/2 inches in length, and children's size 2 inches in length, when grading larger and smaller sizes. 18. When taking measurements for skirts where the front length of the skirt is about the same as the back length, this signifies tliat the figure is a straight waist — meaning erect or somewhat stout. When the front lengths for skirts are greatly changed, or much longer than the back length, this can be followed as the stout skirt. 19. How to lengthen a coat : W'hen a longer coat is wanted for a half or tight-fitting garment, make the draft as usual to the hip line and make all curves. After all curves are ready begin to increase the length from the hip line down to any length needed, or follow the same method as the tight-fitting princess lining. 20. Sleeve lengths for misses' and juniors' sizes should be followed ac- cording to the size as to proportions, and women's size for the inside sleeve length should be 18 inches for all sizes. 21. Cuff widths should be followed according to the style of garment. The regular width of cuff is 12 inches. The narrow width is 9 inches. The very full width for evening garments is 18 inches for all women's sizes. For misses' size this rule should be changed to 1 inch less. For juniors' sizes 2 inches less ; for children's sizes 3 inches less than for women' garments. 22. No cuff's should be cut 1 inch larger than the width of sleeve in front. The height of cuff should be followed according to the style of gar- ment. The regular height of cuff is 3 inches. 23. Collars of all kinds should be cut according to the size of the neck for all garments. The width of collar should be followed according to the style. When cutting a collar with a lapel, the collar should be 1/4 inch narrow-er than the lapel. 24. Lapels are to be followed according to the style of garment. The regular width of lapels for single-breasted jackets is 1 l/2 inches, or 2 inches for the double-breasted, and for single-breasted coats lapels should be 2 1/2 inches to 3 inches. 25. Flaps and welts should be followed according to the style of gar- ments. The correct width of pocket flaps is 3 inches, and welts 1 1/4 inches. These parts are a matter of taste. 26. Butterfly sleeves are to be connected to three-fourths, one-half or loose-fifting garments only. It will not answer for tight-fitting garments. 27. When the bust or hip in special measurements proves too small, increase same with 1 size in order that the garments will not be too snug around the bust or hip. 299 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER ^8. Capes should be cut by the size and bust measurement. No special measurements are required. The regular outlines should be used in all cases for all styles of capes. 29. For seams in all kinds of garments allow 3 inches only. If French seams or any other special cuts are made, allow for seams accordingly, and allow the same amount for all sizes. 30. When a fashion-plate shows a closed back and a closed front, then the garment is buttoned on the side oi on the shoulders. ;>]. The grading changes on all different sizes or garments. In be- ginning to grade certain garments for women, misses, juniors and children, the different changes are as follows : The width for all sizes are to be fol- lowed the same way as regards the height measurements for all different sizes. A great change takes place in the back depth and natural waist^length. The depth and waist length for women's sizes increase alike — that is, the waist length increases a certain amount. The depth increases the same amount. For misses" size the rule is about the same. For juniors' and children's sizes the waist length increases 1/2 inch in length. The depth in- creases 1/4 inch, and the side body also 1/4 inch. On blouses for juniors' and children's sizes the space, which is divided for the depth and underam length, is to be increased at both ends for top and bottom, which is the U]5j5er neck and shoulder for the waist line. For such garments, which are continued from the waist down to the hip. change the waist line according to tlie amount of longest waist for the different sizes ; or, if wanted, this rule can be changed. The waist line can remain straight for all sizes, and the change of underarm can be made at the breast line where the armhole be- gins. For children's garments use the same method. Great care must be taken when grading odd sizes for juniors and children. 32. When grading children's and juniors' garments be very careful to look at the proportional measurements, as the juniors' and children's sizes are greatly changed regarding their proportions. 33. In grading garments which have many gores be careful to hud out how to divide the amount of increase or decrease; for instance, 14 and 18- gore garments, which are strictly tight-fitting, are graded the same way as the tight-fitting French seam garment. 34. liox coats, etons, lilouses and butterfly sleeves are graded bv the same metho'i. 35. Skirts are all graded alike. The front part is never graded for skirts ; otherwise increas'* the amount of waist and hip of all gores alike. Before completing the grading be very careful to see if you have increased or decreased sufficiently or not so as the garment is not overbuilt. 36. When grading collars always grade them for length only, not the width. A half-collar should be graded half the amount, and a full or open collar should be graded the full amount of the size which is given on the table of proportions. " 37. The sailor collar with the shield should lie graded on one style or method. 38. When a collar is cut ii' many pieces, grade each part separately. 39. Cuffs are graded according to the sleeve, and the same amount as the sleeve is graded in the front. The height of cuffs is not graded. 40. \\hen taking special measurements for a large size take all measiu-ements snug. For slim figures take all measurements full. For me- dium bodv take measurements medium. THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 300 41. Special measurements for front waist leng.th : If the measurement does not reach over the regular waist line use the regular waist line in this case for all garments. 42. For testing and measuring waists : When a test or measuring over for waist is needed, take off seams of every gore, which amounts to 3/8 inch for all sorts of garments except skirts. For .skirts we allow one-half for seams and measure the inside part of the garment. For the hip use the same method. This rule should be followed for all kinds of tight-fitting gar- ments. When the measurement or test is wanted for a half-fitting garment, use the same method, but allow 3 inches more than the measurements call for. 43. ^^'hen a narrow bottom is wanted on skirts, increase the amount on the waist line. After the waist measurement of 3 inches is allowed add ] inch more, which makes 4 inches, or more if you desire. If full bottom is wanted allow 2 inches instead of 3 inches. To understand these outlines we should increase the waist line for a decreased bottom as needed, and if in- creasd bottom is wanted we should decrease the waist line. This will liring the results of changing widths of bottom of skirts. 44. Yokes should lie cut across on blouses or jackets above the breast line about 1 1/2 inches. It is proper to have the yoke cut bias, or down towards the front. Seams should be allowed on both upper and lower parts m cutting across for a yoke. A special allowance should be made for seams. If a lap seam is wanted allow additional amount. 45. The empire style should be cut across below the breast line, or between breast and waist line, and seams should be allowed for a yoke, with additional amount allowed for a lap seam. 4(i. W'hen splitting any part of a pattern where tlicrc is no seam al- lowed do not forget to allow for additional seams. 47. When making changes for collars, and also sailor collars, be care- ful to follow the neck part of the garment for which these collars aie cut. 48. Collars should be cut carefully and followed by the opening of the garment. If openings are changed on coats the collar should follow the same way, as the stand of the collar is connected with the opening line of the neck on all garments, which are cut with collars. 49. All kinds of lengths for all kinds of skirts. Man}- different lengths for skirts are called as follows : First Ankle length Fourth Round length Second Instep length Fifth Dip length Third Short round length Sixth Medium sweep length Seventh Long sweep length These lengths of skirt are to be followed with different measurements, which in most cases change towards the back length of the skirt, and some- what changed on the front inside length, and should be known that the lengths are to be followed for the medium height, which is 5 feet, 6 inches. Body lengths for different kinds as above are as follows: Regular length of skirt is 41 inches in front, 42 1/2 inches side, 44 inches back for round length skirt, which is 3 inches, and spa^e between front and back length. The short round length is 40 inches front, 41 1/2 inches side and 43 inches back length. The instep length is 39 inches front, 40 inches side, and 41 1/2 inches back length. The ankle length, which may also be called the rainy day skirt, is 38 inches front, 39 inches side, and 40 inches at back length. These are all the short length skirts from the regular size length up. We should follow- long skirts from the regular length down. The depth length is about the sanie as the regular lengths in front, which is 41 inches, side length 41 1/2 inches and back length \ t inches. The medium sweep length is also 41 301 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER inches front, 43 inches side, and 45 inches at the back. The l'>n;^' sweep length is also 41 inches in front, 43 inches side, and 46 inches at the back. For a lonjj trail skirt there is no limit to the lengths. For a medium allow for the trail 12 inches to the medium back length and lose with a curve to the front. .j(». If the hips are too large the amount which is over-lniilt can be taken ofif the back at hip, and if hips are too small, according to the proportionate draft, the amount which is to be increased should also be increased toward the back at all seams from the side seam to the back, and no decreasing should be done at the front part for the hip measurements. 51. How to measure the waist and hip when a test for hip is wanted: Take off seams of both edges where seams take place and measure the inside space for waist or the hip part, and the waist or hip should measure 1/2 inch more than the measurements call for. When measuring the waist for the skirt, the amount should be just what is wanted, and the hip should measure a little more than wanted, in order that the hips will not be snug for the skirt. 53. General notice to those who wish to create a new style of gar- ment or any sort of section. Before starting your creation have a record of certain actions as follows : Your length of garment, length of sleeve, whether front is to be single- or double-breasted, lapel collar, notch collar, lay-over collar, stand-up collar, or no collar, cufifs or no cuflfs, and if you wish to have a cufF mark your style for it, the style of pocket, style of flaps on pocket, how many pockets, how many buttons or buttonholes should garment have, the size and style of button and buttonholes. After completing all particulars decide about your main action, which is the length of the front and back of this garment, which means the shape or cut in front or back part of garment — tight-fitting, half-fitting or loose-fitting. After you have completed your record for style you can start to draft your model size pattern. Be sure to have your sample suitable size for your section of garment, as regards women, misses', juniors' or children's sizes. As a rule, each one of these sections are built with different model sizes, except the women's garments. 53. When a large waist measurement is needed to be connected to the draft in this case always look up the proportionate measurements, follow- ing the breast sizes of the garments, and see the difference between the pro- portionate waist, and large waist measurements for instance, if you have the measurements for size of a 38 size. For this purpose look up the proportionate waist measurements for size 38, which is about 26 inches. Now see the dif- ference between 26 and use large waist measurement, which is 28 inches The difference between the two waist measurements is 2 inches. For this case, take half of this, which is 1 inch, and add this inch to the front pari where the seam is allowed to the dart to the waist line. Be careful to allow this amount to the front before you take off the dart from the front, and fol- low the dart according to the amount which has been allowed to the front. If there is a whole lot allowed, meaning for the waist, increase about 3 to 4 inches more as the proportionate waist measurements. This dart should be followed according to half of the space which is allowed in front, in order not to have the dart too much bias. 54. If waist is too large, take off the amount which is over-built at the front part, where the dart takes place, and a small amount can also be taken off at all parts towards the back, especially at the side body. In case the waist is too small increase this amount. strictly to the front only; as in this case, where the waist is too large, the figure is' built stout. THE P RACTICAL DESIGNER 302 KLIJCS TO HE KEMEMr.Rkl-.l). Xcver mind how lure. if you are in doubt, call on us and we will make it sure. riie surest way is the best. The simplest way is the easiest. .A test is the best. Knowledge is power. Knowledge makes proht. Knowledge makes money. If you knew more you could make more monev. If you learn more you can earn more, ."^tudv; don't delav. INDEX. PAGli. Title 1 Preface ^ Introduction 3 The Grammar of Designing and Garment Cutting 4-5 The Measure of a Woman Ijv Proportion fi A Rule of Proportions 6 How to Find the Height "^ The System of Heights 8 Proportional Height Scale 9 Proportional Height Scale Table ^0 The Study on Width Proportions 1 ^ The System of Width Proportions 13 A Test of Systematical Knowledge 13-11 The System of Practical Value 15-1« Proportional Measurements for ^^'omen's Garments Ti* Scale Method on Drafting ■' 1''' How to Measure for a Regular Size 18 Lesson 1, On Drafting 19-20 Lesson 2, On Drafting 31-22 Lesson 3, A Tight-fitting Garment 33-24 Lesson 4, A Tight-fitting Jacket with Two Darts 25-26 Lesson 5, A Tight-fitting French Seam Fitting 27-28 Lesson G, M-Gored Tight-fitting 39-30 Lesson 7, 18-Gored Tight-fitting 31-32 Lesson 8, Half-fitting Garment 33-3 1 Lesson 9, Half-fitting French Seam, Broad Back 35-3(> Lesson 10. Half-fitting French Seam, Narrow Back 37-38 Lesson 11, A Lost Dart in Front 39-40 Lesson 12, Half-fitting Jacket with Dart on Top 39-40 Lesson 13, Dressing Sack with Shawl Collar 41-42 Lesson 14, Eton Coats 43-44 Lesson 15, Eton with a Dart in Front 4.5-46 Lesson 16, Eton with a French Seam 45-46 Lesson 17, Eton Front with a Dart on Top 47-48 Lesson 18, Blouse 48-50 Lesson 19, Tunic Skirt 49-50 Lesson 20, Butterfly Sleeve Draft ^^'^l''ll Lesson 21, Kimono Sleeve in One Piece 52-.54 Lesson 23, Butterfly with Under Arm Sleeve 55-.56 Lesson 23, A Raglan Style Butterfly Sleeve aS-oG Lesson 24, To Cut a Yoke 'l' Lesson 25, Long Half-fitting Hipless Coat ^8-bO Lesson 26, Short Box Coat 61-62 Lesson 27, Double-breasted Automobile Coat 6.5-64 Lesson 38, Raglan Top Coat 6.D-66 Lesson 39, Inverness Coat /a Jf\ Lesson 30, Butterfly Sleeve Cape '^-^-^I* Lesson 31, Opera Cloak ^1'^^ Lesson 32, Short Two-piece Cape ^-^-'4 Lesson 33, A Circle Cape ^^"^'^ Lesson 34, A Circle Cape, with Shoulder Dart ^^'-^7 Lesson 35, Long Shoulder Seam Cape '-'8 Lesson 36, Lesson 37, Lesson 38, Lesson 39, Lesson 40, Lesson 41, Lesson 42, Lesson 43, Lesson 44, Lesson 45, Lesson 46, Lesson 47', Lesson 48, Lesson 49, Lesson 50, Lesson 51, Lesson 52, Lesson 54, Lesson 55. Lesson 56, Lesson 57, Lesson 58, Lesson 59, Lesson 60, Lesson 62, Lesson 61, PAGE. Single-breasted Riding Coat 79-82' Cut-away Front Riding Coat 83-84 Double-breasted Riding Coat 85-86 A Closed Back and Closed Front 87-88 Single-breasted Vest 89-90 Double-breasted Vest 91 To Draft All Kinds of Sizes 92-94 The Study of the Stout Form 95 Box Coat' for a Stout Form 96-97-98 To Cut Out the Pattern for the Stout 99 Hood 100-101 Sailor Collar 101-102 Shield for a Sailor Collar 103-104 Standing Collars 105 Lap Over Collars 105-106 Storm Collar 1 06 Automobile Collar 107-108 Flat or Dutch Collar 107-108 First Draft on Sleeves without Fullness 109-110 Sleeve with Some Fullness 111-112 Sleeve with All Fullness 113 One-piece Sleeve with Fullness on the Bottom 114 Sleeve with Fullness on Top 115 One-piece Dress Sleeve 115-116 Dart Sleeve 117 Raglan Sleeve with a Dart on Shoulder 1 18-119 Raglan Sleeve 118-119 SKIRTS. Lesson 63, Lesson 64, Lesson 65, Lesson 66, Lesson 67, Lesson 68, Lesson 69, Lesson 70, Lesson 71. Lesson 72, Lesson 73, Lesson 74, Lesson 75, Lesson 76, Lesson 77. Lesson 78. Lesson 79. Lesson 80. Lesson 81, Lesson 82, Lesson 83, Lesson 84, Lesson 85, Lesson 86, Lesson 87, Beginning Skirts 121-133 5-gored Skirt 133-124 7-gored Skirt 125-126 9-gored Skirt 127-128 ll-gored Flare Skirt 129-130 15-gored Skirt 131-132 Empire or Girdle Skirt 133-134 Girdle Belt 133-134 Flounce Skirt 135-136 Circle Flounce Skirt 137-138 Circle Skirt 139-140 Princess Skirt 141-143 Divided Riding Skirt 143-144 Side Saddle Riding Skirt, Front Part 145-146 Side Saddle, Back'Part 145-147 Bloomers, Front Part 148-149 Bloomers, Back Part 148-150 Riding Breeches, Front Part 150-151 Breeches, Back Part 150-151 Pantaloons, Front Part 152-153 Pantaloons, Back Part 152-153 Stout Skirt 154-155 A Very Stout Skirt 154-155 Skirt with Seams Allowed 156-157 Skirt with More or Less Fullness 157-158 Proportional Stout Measurements for \\'omen 159 Short and Stout Proportions 159 PAGE. MISSES' SIZES. Proportional Measurements for Misses 160 Lesson 88, Misses' French Seam, Tisjht-fitting 1()1-162 Lesson 89, Misses, Half-fitting Jacket 1 ():?- 1 (it Lesson 90, Misses' Short Box Coats Uia-KJtJ Lesson 91, Misses' Size Sleeve 1fi7-168 Lesson 92, Misses' Size 5-gored Skirt 1(i9-170 Extra Stout Proportions for \\'nmcn 171 Childi-cn's Stout Measurements Til JUNIOR SIZES. Proportional Measurements for Juniors 173 Lesson 93, Junior Box Coat 173-171 Lesson 91, Juniors' Half-fitting French Seam Jackets 175-177 Lesson 95, Juniors' Long Capes 177-178 Lesson 96, A Yoke for the Box Coat 1 79-1 80 Lesson 97, A Junior Sleeve 181-18"2 Lesson 98, Juniors' 5-gored Skirt 183-184 Lesson 99, Juniors' Circle Skirts 185 CHILDREN'S SIZES. Proportional Measurements for Children 186 Lesson 100, Child's Reefer Coat 187-188 Lesson 101, Child's Box Coat 189-190 Lesson 102, Child's French Seam Coat 191-193 Lesson 103, Child's Sleeve without Any Fullness 194 Lesson 104, Child's Short Two-piece Cape I95-19R Lesson 105. Child's One-piece Cape '. 1117-198 Lesson 106, Child's One-piece Skirt 199-200 Lesson 107, Child's One-piece Sleeve, Fullness on Bottom 201 GRADING FOR ALL SIZES. Interest of Grading | 203 Corrections on Grading 201 Manual of Grading Sizes 204 Lesson 108, Blouse Grading 205-206 Lesson 109, Box Coat Grading 207-208 Lesson 110, Long Cape Grading 209-210 Lesson 111, Half-fitting Jacket Grading 211-212 Lesson 112, Tight-fitting Jacket Grading 213-214 Lesson 113, Tight-fitted French Seam Grading 215-216 Lesson 114, Two-piece Sleeve Grading 21 7-218 Lesson 115, One-piece Sleeve Grading 219 Lesson 116, Butterfly Blouse Grading 220 Lesson 117, How to'Crade the Sailor Collar 221-222 Lesson 118, Standing Collar Grading 221-222 Lesson 119, Flat Collar Grading 221-222 Lesson 120, 5-gored Skirt Grading, Size 36 223-224 Lesson 121. M'isses' Blouse Grading, Size 16 225-226 Lesson 122, :\Iisses' Half-fitting Jacket Grading 227-228 Lesson 123, Misses' French Seam Tight-fitting Grading 229-230 Lesson 124. }ilisses' Sleeve Grading 231 Lesson 125. Misses' Circle Skirt Grading 232 PAGE. Lesson 126, Misses' 5-gui-ed Skirt Grading 233-234 Lesson 12T, Junior Blouse Grading 235-236 Lesson 128, Junior Box Coat Grading 237-23S Lesson 129, Junior Long Cape Grading 239-240 Lesson 130, Junior Two-piece Sleeve Grading 241 Lesson 131, Junior One-piece Sleeve Grading 242 Lesson 132, Junior 5-gored Skirt Grading 343 Lesson 133, Junior Circle Skirt Grading 344 SPECIAL MEASUREMENTS. The Problem of Special Garment Cutting 245-246 The Right Way of Taking Special ^leasurements 347-248 Lesson 137, First Draft on Special Measurements 349-250 Lesson 138, Second Draft on Special Measurements 251-253 Lesson 139, Third Lesson on Special Measurements 353 Lesson 140, Special Measurements without Seams 254-256 Study of Special Garment Cutting 257 Lesson 141. Special Sleeve 258 Importance of Fitting 259 SHIRT WAISTS AND DRESSES. Lesson 142. Shirt Waist 261-263 Lesson 143, Shirt Waist with a Side Body 263-364 Lesson 144, Lining with Two Dart in Front 265-266 Lesson 145, Princess Dress 267-268 Lesson 146, To Allow Pleats on a Blouse 269-270 Lesson 147, Pleats on a Blouse with a Yoke 369-270 Lesson 148, Crinoline Cuff 271-27-.' Lesson 149, To Draft a Cuff 273 Lesson 150, High Standing Collar 274 Lesson 151, Misses' Blouse Drafting 275-376 Lesson 152. Junior Blouse Blouse Drafting 277-278 Lesson 153, Child's Princess Dress 279-280 Lesson 154, Child's Sleeve Drafting 281 Lesson 155, Grading Rules for Waists and Dresses 283 . Lesson 156, Child's Blouse Grading 283-284 Lesson 157, Child's Box Coat Grading 285-386 Lesson 158, Child's Two-piece Sleeve Grading 387 Lesson 159, Child's One-piece Skirt Grading 388 Lesson 160, Table of All Kinds of Divisions 289-290 Lesson 161, Systematical Bust Sketching 291-392 Lesson 163, Systematical Back Sketching 293 Lesson 163, Systematical Skirt Sketching 391 Lesson- 164, Philosophy of Corrections 295-301 Rules to Be Remembered 303 H 96. 85 •■« HECKMAN BINDERY INC. APR 85 N. MANCHESTER, INDIANA 46962