* j&* ^ VET.' A <»"*° • » * " a 6 
 
 ,4Q 
 
 P<6 
 
 
 
 
 >. V^' 
 
 
 
 
 
 • * v ^ 
 
 £/?** Vs. 
 
 
 
 
 
 v*^r»*^ 
 
 fc v 
 
 
 
 5* 
 
 <P 
 
 fc/^V v^\** %wV % 
 
 
 ■. X** .• 
 
 
r*5tfte>.* ^\.'-- % v ^.vat.^ ^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 •assist °^v> •>!»#>:: *W* «8®8M0lZ ^v* 
 
 w>. 
 
 «></> 
 
 v«* 
 
z ^< ? 
 
A JOURNEY TO THE 
 HOLY LAND 
 
 AND 
 
 Countries of the Mediterranean 
 
 BY 
 
 REV. JOSEPH F. BARTMESS 
 
 Edited from the diary notes by his son 
 EDWARD A. BARTMESS 
 44 Pink STREET 
 
 YONKERS, - NEW YORK 
 

 
 LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
 Tw« Copies Received 
 
 FEB 6 1907 
 
 Copyright Entry 
 
 LASS CU XXc.,J|p. 
 
 COFY B. 
 
 i 
 
 Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1907. 
 
 By EDWARD A. BART MESS, 
 
 In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 
 
To 
 
 tl\ose vJY\o 
 
 are interested iri 
 
 foreign travel 
 
 arid 
 
 to all tr\ose 
 
 dear relatives and friends 
 
 to ^r^orri rr\y father, at sonqe tirr\e 
 
 during l\is long and faithful rc\inistry 
 
 carried tl\e blessed gospel iiqessage, 
 
 tr\is book is rnost 
 
 faithfully inscribed 
 
 by 
 
 f|is son. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 Departure from home 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 Across the Atlantic, the ocean voyage.— Incidents 
 at sea 4 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 The Island of Madeira, and sea voyage to Gibraltar 13 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Gibraltar. The fortress, Neutral Ground, beggars, 
 
 and sail on the Mediterranean to Algiers 18 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 Algeria. Mosques, veiled women, flowers, fruits, 
 beggars, bakshish 23 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 The Island of Malta. Valetta. Citta Vecchia, the 
 Cathedral, harbor, warships, people, customs, 
 fortress, sail on the Mediterranean to Alex- 
 andria 27 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 The Land of Egypt. Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, 
 Mohammedan worship, the Nile, Hehopohs, 
 Egyptian scenes 35 
 
VI CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Palestine. Landing at Joppa, Valley of Sharon, 
 Ramleh, Valley of Ajalon, Judean Hills, Jeru- 
 salem, Bethany, Jordan, Jericho, Bethlehem, 
 Tomb of Rachel, Trinket venders, Pool of 
 Bethsaida, Mount of Olives, the sail to Caifa, 
 Mt. Carmel, Nazareth, Cana, Hermon, Ti- 
 berias, Sea of Galilee, Capernaum, Prelimi- 
 naries of a wedding, Syria 49 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 Smyrna. Tomb of Polycarp? A walk through the 
 
 city 71 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 Constantinople. The city, Saint Sophia, the Palace, 
 
 Robert College, the Turk 74 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 Athens. The Acropolis, Mars' Hill, ruins, sail to 
 Naples 82 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 Naples and Pompeii. Poem, "The Roman Sentinel," 
 journey to Rome 87 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 Rome. Its interesting ruins, works of art, St. 
 Peter's Cathedral, the Forum, the Coliseum, 
 Pincian Hill, Vestal Virgins, bad news from 
 our ship, flight from Rome 95 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 From Rome to London. Florence, The Alps, Paris, 
 
 English Channel, London, Liverpool 103 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 Homeward Bound. Rough seas, life aboard ship, 
 funeral in mid-ocean, preaching at sea, my 
 native land, Home 108 
 
• PREFACE. 
 
 1WTY father kept his diaries, private papers, and 
 other records in a black walnut box which 
 was made and presented to him by Mr. Jacob 
 Hahn. At irregular periods I find myself in a 
 retrospective mood which takes me to this box; 
 and as I look over its contents, I always find 
 something to interest, sadden and depress, as 
 well as much to gladden, uplift and inspire. 
 
 No doubt all have experienced the sweet sad- 
 ness of reading old letters of departed dear ones. 
 How they stir the deep springs of our being, 
 and we do not wish to part from them. How 
 they sometimes bring a dimness to the eyes, and 
 yet we cling to them. 
 
 One day while reading from two small memor- 
 anda books, which my father used on his trip to 
 the Holy Land, it occurred to me to publish his 
 notes in book form, believing that his relatives 
 and many old friends would find pleasure in pos- 
 sessing his own daily record of the trip. Those 
 interested in foreign travel might also enjoy the 
 book. 
 
 To the pseudo-critic, I would say that this 
 book, from its nature, precludes any pretense of 
 literary merit; therefore do not read it with 
 
Vlll PREFACE 
 
 that end in view — your time is too precious. To 
 the real critic I say, "Blessed are the merciful." 
 
 In perusing these pages, the kind reader will 
 remember that this is not intended to be a book 
 of reference, or an instructive treatise on foreign 
 travel, but it is humbly offered as a remembrancer 
 of my father, and gives thoughts and items of in- 
 formation which came to him, and were jotted 
 down while visiting each point of interest. 
 
 Subjects are never treated analytically, synthet- 
 ically or logically in a memorandum book or 
 diary, and the topics often end abruptly to be 
 resumed anon, out of place and connection. Some 
 subjects which the reader may think deserve 
 more space, may be scarcely mentioned, and situ- 
 ations, which he may desire more fully explained, 
 are left to his conjecture. In such cases, the in- 
 dulgent reader need only remember that he is 
 reading, so far as the thought is concerned, 
 simply diary notes, which were made hurriedly on 
 the spot, or written at night after the fatigue of 
 a day's travel. 
 
 I know, from experience, that note-taking, 
 while sight-seeing is usually irksome and few per- 
 sons make memoranda ; and again, I have seen 
 some tourists spending so much time on Icarian 
 flights of rhetoric in their notes, that they had 
 no eyes or time for the objects of their travel. 
 The idea that his diary notes would some day 
 
PREFACE IX 
 
 appear in print never entered my father's mind. 
 I have found some places in the notes, where I 
 should like to ask questions, but, alas, it is too 
 late. Such books contain only the raw material 
 necessary to the finished product. It has been my 
 aim to preserve, as far as possible, the language 
 used in the original notes, and thus retain the 
 element of personality. 
 
 As my mind has followed the record from 
 first to last, line by line, the familiar phrasing of 
 the thoughts has given precious companionship to 
 the work, and now as it is finished, I lay down 
 the manuscript with reluctance, while the heart 
 feels the loneliness of separation. 
 
 If the reader of this volume, besides gaining a 
 little knowledge, derives only a small portion of 
 the pleasure in its perusal that has come to me in 
 the preparation of its pages, I shall be sincerely 
 grateful. If, in the homes of my father's friends, 
 and others, this book becomes the unveiling of 
 a tablet to his memory, it shall accomplish that 
 whereunto it is sent. 
 
 Edward A. Bartmess, 
 
 Yonkers, New York, 
 November. 1906. 
 
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH. 
 
 Joseph Francis Bartmess, son of Jacob and 
 Sophia Bartmess was born Sept. 14, 1837, a t * ne 
 old homestead two miles west of Dayton, Tippe- 
 canoe County, Indiana. He was the youngest of 
 nine children. His early life was spent on the 
 farm of his widowed mother, his father having 
 died in 1847. He was converted in 1849, under 
 the preaching of Rev. John Surran, and was 
 baptized April 25, 1865. After a course of study, 
 he received Quarterly Conference license to 
 preach April 22, 1865, at Dayton, Ind., H. A. 
 Snepp, Presiding Elder. He had already preached 
 his first sermon Feb. to, T865, taking his text 
 from Acts 24:24. 
 
 On Sept. 13, 1859, he was married to Mary 
 Brodie. of Dayton, lnd., who in after years 
 proved many times that she possessed all the vir- 
 tues of a devoted wife, and all the graces of a 
 loving and tender mother. 
 
 He began his ministry in the church of the 
 United Brethren in Christ Sept. 21, 1866, having 
 been admitted to the St. Joseph Conference at its 
 session in Bourbon, Ind. He was ordained Oct. 
 10, 1868, at the session of the Conference held 
 by Bishop Weaver at Buchanan, Mich. He con- 
 
Xll BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH 
 
 tinued his ministerial work unceasingly, and with 
 unflagging energy, for thirty years, in Northern 
 Indiana and Southern Michigan, taking few vaca- 
 tions. During this time he was never absent from 
 any Annual Conference, was Presiding Elder 
 nine years, was three times elected to the General 
 Conference, and was also appointed a director of 
 the Board of Missions. At the session of Con- 
 ference held in September, 1895, ne did not ac- 
 cept a regular assignment, and was appointed 
 Conference Evangelist. 
 
 In the autumn and winter of 1895, he traveled 
 extensively in the West, visiting and preaching in 
 many of the Pacific coast churches. 
 
 In an issue of the Religions Telescope in 1899, 
 we find an article entitled "Honored Names," 
 from which we quote the following : 
 
 "The above face is a familiar one in a majority 
 of the homes in St. Joseph Conference. Rev. J. 
 F. Bartmess was born in Tippecanoe County, In- 
 diana. His early life was spent on the farm 
 where the foundation of the rugged physical con- 
 stitution which he possesses was laid .... 
 His first field of labor was Galveston, Ind., cir- 
 cuit. . . . Mr. Bartmess is a preacher of un- 
 usual ability, possessing a good voice and excel- 
 lent address. . . . He evidently retains much 
 of his youthful buoyancy, and strength of body 
 and mind, and while he is not serving a charge 
 
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH Xlil 
 
 this year, there is no reason why he should not 
 still render many years of good service to Christ 
 and the church." 
 
 For the substance of what follows in single 
 quotation marks, we are indebted to the memorial 
 article of Rev. L. A. Townsend, in the Dec. 13, 
 1905. issue of the Religious Telescope. 'He was 
 a member of the local church of Buchanan 35 
 years, and at three different times served the 
 church as pastor. He always loved his church 
 home, which was a dear place to him. When the 
 conference boundaries were changed by the Gen- 
 eral Conference in 1901, and the society of which 
 he was a member was transferred from the St. 
 Joseph to the Michigan Conference, he cheerfully 
 made the sacrifice, although it was tearing the 
 heart strings of love and affection, to leave the 
 work and workers of the St. Joseph Conference. 
 He attended the Michigan Conference held at 
 Lake Odessa in October, 1901, and was cheer- 
 fully welcomed into the fellowship of the brethren. 
 At this session of the Conference, by re- 
 quest, he gave a very inspiring lecture on his 
 trip to the Holy Land. 
 
 This was the first and last time that Michigan 
 Conference had the privilege of meeting him in 
 annual session. He was not very strong, having 
 received a light stroke of paralysis Aug. 19, 1901, 
 from which he had only partially recovered. On 
 
XIV BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH 
 
 the first Sunday in the year 1902 he attended 
 church for the last time. On this occasion he 
 taught his large class of young people in the Sun- 
 day School, but before another Sunday he had 
 received the second stroke, which rendered him 
 entirely helpless on the left side. Believing the 
 end to be near, he sent for his good friend, Rev. 
 R. P. Burton, and with him arranged every detail 
 for the funeral service. 
 
 'After weeks had passed, the health of his 
 faithful wife began to fail under the awful strain, 
 and the oldest son decided that his father should 
 be removed to the St. John's Riverside Hos- 
 pital, Yonkers, N. Y. This was done, Mrs. Bart- 
 mess accompanying her husband East, and living 
 at her son's home, not far from the hospital.' 
 
 In September of 1902 the household effects 
 were sold, the library being given away, and the 
 old homestead itself offered for sale. The loving 
 wife continued her daily visits to the bedside of 
 the afflicted one, although herself under a physi- 
 cian's care, until advised to leave Eastern climate. 
 Her return West was too late for climatic 
 changes to have any beneficial effect, and on Feb. 
 7, 1903, her gentle spirit returned to the God who 
 gave it. It was a sorrowful duty to tell an af- 
 flicted father the sad news of a mother's death, 
 and later to announce the death of Rev. Burton, 
 of whom previous mention has been made. 
 
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH XV 
 
 As his condition showed little change, in April, 
 1904, Rev. Bartmess was removed to that noble 
 institution in New York City — The Home for In- 
 curables, where every comfort of a Christian 
 home was afforded him. 
 
 During his years of illness, although deep in 
 the shadow, the same hopeful spirit so character- 
 istic of his life, often shone forth in his conver- 
 sation. In one instance, a request was sent from 
 an upstairs ward in which the patients were lonely 
 and discouraged, to have him brought to them in 
 his wheel chair to speak to them words of good 
 cheer. On one occasion he was found teaching 
 the Lord's Prayer and Twenty-third Psalm to a 
 young man who did not know them, and who died 
 a few clays later. At another time the patients 
 in another ward, feeling very despondent, asked 
 him if he would not offer prayer in their behalf. 
 This he did with great fervor, as he lay helpless 
 upon his bed. Many other similar incidents, 
 which illustrate his patience, courage and faith 
 while tried year after year in the crucible of af- 
 fliction, might be mentioned. 
 
 He was happy to see friends and visitors who 
 came to his bedside, and always welcomed the 
 clergy, both Protestant and Catholic. All these 
 visits, with those of his son and relatives were 
 bright gleamings of sunshine in his long dark day. 
 He loved, as a brother, the Rev. Charles A. Ash- 
 
XVI BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH 
 
 mead, who, for a certain period, called to see him 
 almost daily, and also administered the Commun- 
 ion Service. 
 
 The gospel which he had preached so long to 
 others, comforted and sustained him now. 
 Though weak in body, he possessed a strong and 
 abiding faith in God which never once wavered. 
 For months he lingered on the borderland be- 
 tween two worlds, waiting, watching, catching 
 faint glimpses of the Heaven beyond, and praying 
 to depart. On Sunday morning, Nov. 5, 1905, 
 he heard the Master's call, and passed to his re- 
 ward. The funeral services were held in the 
 church of which he was a member, and interment 
 was made beside his beloved wife and daughter, 
 in Oakridge Cemetery, near the old home in 
 Michigan. 
 
 "How beautiful it is for man to die 
 Upon the walls of Zion ! to be called 
 
 Like a watch-worn and weary sentinel, 
 To put his armor off, and rest — in Heaven. 
 
 His heart was with Jerusalem; and strong 
 As was a mother's love, and the sweet ties 
 
 Religion makes so beautiful at home, 
 He flung them from him in his eager race, 
 
 And sought the broken people of his God, 
 To preach to them of Jesus." 
 
 — Edward A. Bartmess. 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 OUTWARD BOUND. 
 
 "When forced to part from those we love, 
 Though sure to meet to-morrow, 
 
 We yet a kind of anguish prove, 
 And feel a touch of sorrow. 
 
 But oh! what words can paint the fears, 
 When from those friends we sever, 
 
 Perhaps to part for months — for years — 
 Perhaps to part forever." — Anon. 
 
 A long time was spent in deciding, and then 
 the task of getting ready began. What was 
 requisite for such a long trip from home, etc. 
 All these things finally accomplished, I, on Jan. 
 23, 1900, bade farewell to loved ones at home, and 
 boarded the 5:20 p. m. train at Buchanan, Mich., 
 for Buffalo, N. Y. T reached Buffalo next morn- 
 ing in time for the train for Yonkers, N. Y. On 
 arriving, my daughter-in-law met me at the train 
 and accompanied me to their home. I spent a 
 number of days very pleasantly visiting here. We 
 attended church on Sunday, and I was pleased to 
 hear Rev. George Pentecost, formerly of London, 
 England, preach a masterly discourse on the "Im- 
 portance of the New Birth." His language was 
 clear, ornate, and forceful. I also attended a 
 number of entertainments, and remember par- 
 
2 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 ticularly the unique drama of Ben Hur. I visited 
 the Museum of Natural History and Library. 
 
 At last the day so long talked of, and looked 
 for with so much interest, dawned, the day of 
 sailing. My son, Edward, accompanied me to the 
 city and in the Grand Central Station in New 
 York City, I bade him good-bye, and boarded a 
 special train chartered by the manager of the 
 cruise, and was off for Boston. Passing through 
 many beautiful villages and cities, we reached 
 Boston safely, and on the eve of January 31, 1900, 
 we embarked on the New England, a splendid 
 steamship of the Dominion Line. She was built 
 in Belfast, Ireland, in 1898. Length 565 feet, 
 breadth of beam, 59 feet. She has six decks, 215 
 state rooms, twin screw propellers, speed 17 knots, 
 carrying capacity 11,000 tons, and a crew of 269. 
 This vessel has a bilge keel to prevent rolling. 
 She is made entirely of boiler steel, with im- 
 mense iron braces, like bridge timber, to support 
 all its parts. The immense engines are almost 
 beyond our conception in magnitude and strength. 
 In the many different departments, parlors, 
 staterooms and dining rooms, the furniture is 
 elegant. This ship is said to have made the 
 fastest time between Liverpool and Boston. 
 She had already made twenty voyages. 
 
 The party of tourists numbered 525, all aglow 
 with the prospect of a grand trip to the Orient. 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 3 
 
 Some of the places to be visited are as follows : 
 Isle of Madeira, Gibraltar, Algiers, Malta, Val- 
 etta, Citta Vecchia, Alexandria, Cairo, The Pyra- 
 mids, Jaffa, Jerusalem, Jericho, Jordan, Dead Sea, 
 Bethlehem, Bethany, Caifa, Mt. Carmel, Naz- 
 areth, Gallilee, Beyrout, Smyrna, Cypress, 
 Rhodes, Constantinople, Piraeus, Athens, Naples, 
 Pompeii, Rome, Ville Franche, Nice, Monte 
 Carlo, the Riviera. 
 
A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 ACROSS THE ATLANTIC. 
 
 "Roll on thou deep and dark blue ocean — roll — 
 Ten thousand fleets sweep over thee in vain — 
 Man marks the earth with ruin, his control — 
 Stops with the shore." — Byron. 
 
 On the morning of February I, 1900, with all 
 on board, the steamship New England left Bos- 
 ton harbor on her long cruise to the above named 
 places. I was impressed by the large number of 
 visitors who came to say farewell to their de- 
 parting friends. Very few shed tears, but I saw 
 many an anxious look, and loving caress, which 
 said in words not to be misunderstood, how 
 hard it was to say good-bye. When the last 
 visitor was gotten ashore, which required some 
 time, the gangway was lifted and the ponderous 
 engines began the work of driving the vessel 
 across the Atlantic. It was 2,700 miles to the 
 Isle of Madeira, which was to be our first stop 
 after leaving Boston. 
 
 There were nearly three hundred ladies aboard. 
 There were fifty-two clergymen and a number of 
 eminent physicians. While I am on this part 
 of the description, I will say to the credit of the 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 5 
 
 Steamship Company, that the food is the very 
 best in variety and abundance. 
 
 Now I must begin my daily record. 
 
 Feb. i : This is the evening of the first 
 day out at sea. It has been very cold, but the 
 sea has been kind to me. I have, however, seen 
 a large number indisposed. Although the tables 
 are filled with every variety of food to tempt the 
 palate, many seats are vacant. The flowers on 
 the table, pinks and roses, are beautiful and fra- 
 grant. The ship has been rolling for some time, 
 but I have not missed a meal. We have run 340 
 knots to-day. 
 
 Feb. 2 : I must record that the sea was rough 
 all through the night, but a little more quiet this 
 morning. The passengers are recovering some- 
 what, and more are present at the meals. Lunch 
 is over now, and everyone seems to feel well. A 
 lady passenger told the following story: "An 
 Irishman had received some favor from a gen- 
 tleman, and the Irishman said he hoped the 
 gentleman would live to eat the hen that scratched 
 the dirt upon his grave." Everyone is full of 
 mirth, singing, promenading, etc., and various 
 other amusements are in order after meals. To- 
 day we sighted a ship, but whence it came, or 
 whither bound, we shall never know. Such are 
 our lives on the great ocean on which we are 
 all sailing. We catch a glimpse of each other, 
 
6 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 pass, and see each other no more. This evening 
 our log registers 342 knots. 
 
 Feb. 3 : This morning the weather is much 
 warmer. I have had a good rest, slept well, and 
 feel refreshed. The ship is now making good 
 time. I am eating three meals a day. We have 
 run 682 knots and I am still on deck. Our party 
 at the table consists of Rev. W. H. Penhallegon, 
 Airs. Emma Ritchie and daughter, Miss A. Eu- 
 genie Vater, of Lafayette, Ind., Miss Anna R. 
 Wilson, of Portland, Oregon, Mrs. Jane W. 
 Hall, of Pasadena, Cal., Prof. Lowell M. Mc- 
 Afee, Parkville, Mo., a maiden lady whose name 
 I do not recall, and the writer. We represent 
 seven states. 
 
 To-day we are beginning to realize that we are 
 far out at sea, and on a long voyage. We are cut 
 off from every portion of the world save the wild 
 waste of waters. Everything is so pleasant on 
 shipboard that it drives away loneliness. How 
 much we feel indebted to our Heavenly Father, 
 who rules in righteousness and tender love. 
 
 Feb. 4: This is Sunday. We sailed 362 
 knots during the last 24 hours. I am quite well, 
 and thinking of home and loved ones. 
 
 "As slow our ship her foamy track 
 Against the wind was cleaving, 
 
 Her trembling pennant still looked back 
 To that dear land 'twas leaving. 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 7 
 
 So loathe we part from all we love, 
 From ?.ll the links that bind us; 
 
 So turn our hearts where'er we rove 
 To those we've left behind us." 
 
 I have a very genial room-mate, Rev. Dr. 
 Noble, formerly pastor of a church in San Fran- 
 cisco. He served the Congregational Church in 
 that city for fourteen years. He told me of his 
 being instrumental in the conversion of Com- 
 mander Phillips, of the U. S. N. This is the 
 Commander who, in the Spanish-American war, 
 so beautifully manifested a Christian spirit in 
 devoutly thanking God for victory for the right. 
 Dr. Noble makes it very pleasant for me. He 
 is a good conversationalist, and has had a wide 
 range of experience. 
 
 This is a beautiful day. The air and sun are 
 conducive to our health. O, how mighty are 
 the works of the great Creator. This wonderful 
 ocean, how vast, how deep, how mysterious. I 
 am thinking of home and the dear ones who have 
 so kindly aided in permitting and making it 
 possible for me to take this cruise to the Orient. 
 
 It is now 12:15 p. m. The Rev. Dr. Barbour, 
 of Rochester, N. Y., Baptist, preached a fine 
 sermon which was full of spiritual power. His 
 theme was Faith and Love. On being introduced, 
 it was stated that he was pastor of one of the 
 largest churches in America. I am recording this 
 
8 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 day as a typical southern California day. The 
 sea is very smooth, and our great steel-clad 
 floating palace is running so steadily, that one 
 can read and write with ease. But, how soon a 
 change may come. Old Neptune has been toying 
 with us as a cat with the poor little victimized 
 mouse. We retire, trusting in Him who doeth 
 all things well. 
 
 Feb. 5 : Three hundred and seventy-five knots. 
 During the night a terrific gale broke upon us, 
 and we were tossed on mountain waves. Not 
 much sleep. Our satchels slid from one side of 
 our stateroom to the other. This morning the 
 ocean presents a scene of indescribable grandeur. 
 A number of times the ship took water, as wave 
 after wave broke over the upper decks. I have 
 seen the ocean in its strength lifting this ship 
 as though it were only a toy. Our morning 
 meal was eaten with much difficulty. The plates 
 and other dishes, were set in guards, or frames, 
 to prevent accident; but at times it seemed that 
 everything would be smashed. This is an expe- 
 rience not soon to be forgotten, and a good 
 educator for the party. O, thou mighty deep, so 
 placid at times, but now lifted into snow-capped 
 mountain waves and traversed by deep canons 
 into which our ship must plunge. Last evening, 
 while at dinner, a giant wave struck the ship 
 with the report of a cannon, and made her trem- 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 9 
 
 ble fore and aft. O, what power in an ocean 
 wave. 
 
 Rev. Myers, of Brooklyn, N. Y., gave a lecture 
 in the forward salon, on the Isle of Madeira, and 
 the City of Algiers. He spoke of the fruits and 
 flowers, and the queer mode of travel in Madeira 
 by sledges drawn by bullocks. He spoke of the 
 degradation of women in Algiers, and compared 
 their condition with the liberty of the wives and 
 daughters of America. May God hasten the 
 day when "Life, Liberty and the pursuit of happi- 
 ness will be shared equally by all." 
 
 Feb. 6: Three hundred and sixty-five knots. 
 The sea is still running high. This morning far 
 away we saw the white wings of a sailing ship, 
 but whither bound, we shall never know. I am 
 feeling quite well.' Passengers are rapidly recov- 
 ering and becoming acquainted. This afternoon 
 it is more calm. The ocean air has an invigorat- 
 ing effect. One sees some funny things and 
 hears droll expressions. A gentleman said that 
 to-day a woman ran to the ship's railing when it 
 was standing at an angle of 45 degrees, and 
 cried out, "O, if I were only on old terra cotta 
 again, I'm sure I would stay there." She evi- 
 dently meant to say terra firma. 
 
 We have sailed 1,800 miles, 900 more and we 
 shall have reached Madeira. The sea at this 
 point has presented what seemed to be some 
 
10 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 beautiful pictures. Far out, we saw what ap- 
 peared to be lakes of silver, bordered with beau- 
 tiful groves, and having great snow-capped 
 mountains in the background. This was a 
 mirage. As I look out on the expanse of waters, I 
 think how little the route we are pursuing has 
 ever been taken by man, and that for thousands 
 of years, the waves were oscillating and ever 
 changing unseen, while in the vast hidden depths 
 below, lie mysteries never to be revealed. 
 
 I write these lines as 1 sit in the magnificent 
 forward dining salon. While the good ship 
 speeds on I must be indulged in giving an out- 
 line of this extraordinary room. In the centre 
 above there is a glass dome which is richly deco- 
 rated in ebony and gold. The walls are finished 
 in light wood, resembling maple, exquisitely 
 carved and highly polished. The revolving chairs 
 for the table are placed there permanently with 
 strong bolts. They are also of light-colored 
 wood, upholstered, and carved to correspond 
 with the elaborate carving which decorates the 
 entire room. 
 
 Feb. 7 : Three hundred and eighty knots. 
 We expect to arrive at Madeira at 2 o'clock 
 p. m. to-morrow. Eight days out of sight of 
 land makes us long for ''Cities which have foun- 
 dations." This has been a beautiful day of golden 
 sunshine, southerly winds, and sea comparatively 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 11 
 
 smooth, while the ship sails like a seagull on the 
 
 "O, happy ship, 
 
 To rise and dip 
 
 With the blue crystal at your lip." 
 
 I am feeling well, having just partaken of a 
 sumptuous repast. The party are in high spirits 
 with the prospect of seeing land. The music on 
 board to-day is unusually fine. I look out and 
 can see nothing but a wide expanse of water. I 
 look within and all is life and animation. How 
 thankful I am for God's protecting and keeping 
 power. Some wish me to abandon the side trip 
 to Galilee, and go by way of Samaria; but I 
 fear seven days of horseback riding would not 
 be for the best. I begin to feel that I am quite 
 a sailor. 
 
 Someone has said that sea sickness is a com- 
 posite of la grippe, toothache, railroad accident, 
 gunshot wound, nightmare, with the pangs of 
 disappointed love. The beautiful sunshine has 
 been succeeded by clouds. Our good ship is 
 pushing against head winds and a heavy sea. 
 There are some indications of a storm, but the 
 passengers are promenading the decks for exer- 
 cise, and as a preparation for the evening meal. 
 
 Feb. 8: This is a beautiful morning, warm 
 and bright. The sea is calm. The ship runs 
 
12 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 steady, with a slight quivering caused by the 
 action of the propellors. She cleaves the emerald 
 wave and the pulsations of her great iron heart 
 are felt by all. The passengers are in high 
 hopes of seeing land once more, as the ship offi- 
 cers inform us that we shall reach Madeira at 
 2:30 p. m. to-day. 
 
 I have heard it said that after several days at sea, 
 one becomes lonely, but it is not so on the New 
 England. All is life, and many friendships are 
 made. My room-mate. Dr. Noble, is compan- 
 ionable. I have become acquainted with a num- 
 ber of other people who are very companionable. 
 Well, I must go on deck and bathe in the golden 
 sunshine and breathe the fragrant air as it floats 
 to us from the summer land of Madeira. It was 
 stated this morning at breakfast that Columbus 
 visited this island many years ago, • and while 
 there, married the daughter of a prominent of- 
 ficial. It was at Madeira that he conceived the 
 idea of his great sea voyage which resulted in 
 the discovery of the New World. 
 
 The cry of land ahead is heard. One can 
 scarcely realize it after so many days at sea, but 
 the passengers are sure. 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 13 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 THE ISLAND OF MADEIRA. 
 
 "Where summer sings and never dies, 
 O'erveiled with vines, 
 
 She glows and shines 
 Among her future oil and wines." — Read. 
 
 I turn my eyes in the direction of our hopes, 
 and there, to my delight, I can discern the out- 
 lines of the beautiful Isle of Madeira. — There she 
 is, like a rare gem of beauty, pinned on the bosom 
 of the ocean. The ship speeds on, and soon we 
 see the snow white villages as they nestle on the 
 terraces of the great sloping sides of an elevation 
 6,000 feet above the level of the ocean. With my 
 field glasses I can see a picture of exquisite 
 beauty. Who has not heard of the vineyards and 
 Madeira wine of this island. Here also are flow- 
 ers in rich profusion. Tropical fruits, figs, 
 oranges, lemons, and many others peculiar to such 
 a climate. I shall never forget the flowers, for 
 I have not seen such in my home land. Our good 
 ship has anchored three-quarters of a mile out 
 from the island, and now the whole face of the 
 bay is swarming with row boats to take us ashore. 
 Now, what is to be done as the sea is running 
 
14 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 high here, and the boats bob up and down like 
 corks. The faint-hearted will not venture, but 
 those who do, are well repaid. The bugle sounds 
 for breakfast, and I defer writing. 
 
 Breakfast over. I have come to the forward 
 salon to finish the description of our landing. 
 On reaching the shore, which required half an 
 hour hard rowing by the natives, we were met 
 by a Portuguese guide carrying an American flag. 
 This guide immediately took us under his care. 
 Lined up on the shore was a long row of ox 
 carts to take the passengers over the city of 
 Funchal, which is the capital of Madeira. The 
 houses, built of stone, are usually white. The 
 streets are narrow and paved with small stones, 
 blue, white and red, taken from the seashore. 
 These are arranged in the pavement in a manner 
 which shows some artistic skill, and present a 
 very pretty appearance. 
 
 Here are beggars of all descriptions. Some 
 are terribly deformed ; others blind. Some are 
 little children of tender years, and others very 
 aged. These beset us at all times and became 
 very annoying, but it seemed useless to give, for 
 there would be no end to their begging. The ox 
 sledges were rather pretty. The runners were 
 decorated with highly colored paints, and the 
 boxes, or beds, were made of bamboo, richly 
 upholstered, and having a canopy top. The run- 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 15 
 
 ners are kept well oiled to make them slip over 
 the stone-paved streets. They are oiled fre- 
 quently by a lad using a little bag of rags soaked 
 in oil. While the sledge is in motion he places 
 the bag in front of one of the runners and lets it 
 run over, then springs to the other side and does 
 the same to the other runner, and so keeps both 
 runners well lubricated. This makes them glide 
 easily over the hard pavement. I saw only one 
 span of horses and one vehicle with wheels on the 
 island. 
 
 We visited the Casino, also the Cathedral, built 
 360 years ago. It is a quaint old structure and 
 presented an oriental appearance. The Treasury 
 and post office were also visited. At the latter 
 place we did some writing and mailing of postal 
 cards. To deposit these cards in the mail, we 
 were obliged to go outside of the building, raise 
 an iron flap door in the wall, and there drop in 
 our mail. 
 
 Night comes on, and we are compelled to re- 
 turn to the ship, which we did with some reluc- 
 tance, all wishing we could have had more time 
 on this interesting island. However, we all 
 reached our ship in safety and rested sweetly dur- 
 ing the night. 
 
 Feb. 9: This is a delightful morning. The 
 sky is clear and the sun shines with a golden 
 lustre peculiar to the tropics. Our next stop 
 
16 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 will be at Gibraltar. There we shall send more 
 mail to our friends at home. O, America seems 
 so far away, and yet so dear. This is an English 
 ship and carries the flag of that nation, but as it 
 has aboard a large party of Americans, it also 
 flies the American flag. As we look at the stars 
 and stripes floating from the top of the mast, we 
 feel like singing "My Country, 'Tis of Thee." 
 The passengers are quiet to-day. As w T e speed 
 along, some are reading, some sleeping, some 
 playing shuffle-board, others engaged in con- 
 versation. 
 
 I remember one year ago to-day, the mercury 
 registered 26 degrees below zero at home, while 
 here it is 70 above. The ocean is calm, and far 
 away has the appearance of one of our western 
 prairies. This forenoon we saw a sail. It is re- 
 markable how a single craft will attract atten- 
 tion while out on the wide waste of water. The 
 distance from Madeira to Gibraltar is 610 miles. 
 
 Before I started on this journey, a pessimistic 
 person told me that it would be "so very monot- 
 onous and gloomy at sea," but I can say that time 
 has not dragged heavily along. On the contrary, 
 there have been many things to entertain and in- 
 struct. 
 
 Feb. 10: Far out at sea. The morning - is 
 delightful, with breeze soft as velvet. The sky 
 clear, save a few fleecy clouds floating far away. 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 17 
 
 The golden sunlight causes the crested waves to 
 sparkle like diamonds of frost upon the mountain. 
 We are due at Gibraltar at i p. m. The sea for 
 several days has dealt very kindly with us. Save 
 a slight cold, I am well. At Gibraltar we expect 
 to land by small boats and remain ashore until 
 ii p. m. Our table had its full number of pas- 
 sengers this morning, and all blend in a fraternal 
 bond of friendship. 
 
 Land is now in sight. Our good ship sails on 
 with Morocco on our right, and Portugal on our 
 left. We shall soon be in the Strait. A 
 strange appearance is seen in the water. It has 
 suddenly changed from a dark blue to a light 
 green color. Some say it is because the water is 
 becoming shallow. Now I can see the light houses 
 and the green hills on the shores of Africa, and I 
 can also see the mountains of Portugal. Africa, 
 how strange that sounds. 
 
 How strange to me that I am permitted to see 
 these historic shores. I think of Oliver Hadley, 
 who, when a young minister, left our Conference 
 and sailed for Africa to do mission work on the 
 dark continent. This work soon cost him his 
 life. 
 
18 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 GIBRALTAR. 
 "The Pillars of Hercules." 
 Well, here we are in the Strait of Gibraltar, 
 On the coast of Spain I see villages. The houses 
 appear white. On the African side I see vast 
 mountains lifting their summits in awful gran- 
 deur above the clouds. The passengers are 
 greatly excited over the scenery. I can see the 
 beautiful green valleys of Morocco. This is his- 
 toric ground, and these are eminently historic 
 waters. Here some of the greatest battles of the 
 past have been fought. Their names are recorded 
 in history. We are now passing a town called 
 Tariffa, a seaport of Spain. Some tell us that 
 here is where the word tariff originated, as they 
 once charged custom when vessels landed. Our 
 good ship reached her anchorage on time. Be- 
 cause of her immense size she cannot dock, and 
 is anchored one mile off shore. We were taken 
 to land in steam tenders. 
 
 This day I have set my feet for the first time 
 on the shores of Europe. Guides met us at the 
 gateway to conduct us to the different places of 
 interest. 
 
 Gibraltar, a city of 20,000 inhabitants, is built 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 19 
 
 on the northwest side of a great rock, which is a 
 mountain projecting into the sea. First we vis- 
 ited the National Garden. It is a rare treat for a 
 lot of tired, sea-tossed tourists to stroll through 
 those beautiful flower festooned walks. Tropical 
 fruits and flowers are seen everywhere. The 
 streets, like those of Funchal, are paved with 
 stone. 
 
 In visiting the fortifications, which can only be 
 done on certain days, we were greatly impressed 
 with the strength of this mighty fortress. It 
 looks as though no military power is able to re- 
 duce it. From every point of the compass, great 
 frowning cannon give warning to any approach- 
 ing foe. We went through the great serpentine 
 galleries, which are vast tunnels cut in the rock 
 and ascending toward the top. At certain points 
 along these galleries are rooms from which holes 
 are cut and through which point the cannon. It 
 is said there are 75 miles of tunnels in the great 
 fortification of Gibraltar. To rightly appreciate 
 it, one should visit the place and see its great- 
 ness. Here are some English hotels which are 
 first class. 
 
 After visiting a number of the shops and stores, 
 kept principally by English, we went over into 
 Spain. To do this, we must pass over what is 
 known as Neutral Ground. This is a small tract of 
 land which is the dividing space between two 
 
20 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 nations. Here were stationed on one side the 
 English guards, in their scarlet uniforms protect- 
 ing the interests of England, while on the other 
 side were Spanish guards protecting the interests 
 of Spain. As I looked at the latter swarthy men, 
 I could not help but "Remember the Maine." 
 The town which we visited in Spain is called 
 Lenia. It is a filthy place, revealing the most 
 squalid poverty. 
 
 We were beset with beggars on every side. 
 Many were blind. I am told their eyes were 
 destroyed when they were young, by insects, 
 which, for some superstitious notion, the moth- 
 ers refused to drive away. Articles offered for 
 sale, were inferior to those on the other side of 
 Neutral Ground under the flag of England. I 
 did not see a pleasing face in this part of Spain. 
 Articles for sale on the English side are much 
 cheaper, hence many of the people cross over 
 to Gibraltar to do some of their shopping, but 
 they are robbed on their return by the Spanish 
 officials. It makes no difference if the purchaser 
 he very poor. In the evening we returned to our 
 ship, tired, but well satisfied with our visit ashore. 
 
 We sailed at 1 1 130 that night. I spent the 
 evening on deck conversing with friends until a 
 late hour. The moon arose in silver splendor, 
 and from a cloudless sky poured a flood of light 
 over the ocean. We sat for a long time watching 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 21 
 
 the slowly receding form Of the fortress rock, 
 which guards the entrance to the Mediterranean 
 Sea. 
 
 Feb. 1 1 : We have entered and are now sailing 
 on the classic waters of the Mediterranean. All 
 through the night our ship has run as if she had 
 been a boat on a river, with no movement except 
 straight ahead at the rate of 17 knots an hour.. 
 This a. m. we find ourselves well out at sea, but 
 we can yet discern the snow covered mountains in 
 Spain. They are called the Sierra Nevadas, the 
 same as those of our own country. I presume 
 the Spaniards named both. Many of the pas- 
 sengers who were not accustomed to seeing 
 mountains, thought they were great white clouds. 
 
 To-day I attended religious services in the for- 
 ward salon. Rev. McLein, of New Haven, Conn., 
 preached from John 17:19, "For Their Sakes I 
 Sanctify Myself." The sermon was plain, simple 
 and practical. Our ship sails on. What memo- 
 ries cluster around this great sea. Here' were 
 many incidents of sacred story. On this sea the 
 prophet Jonah, shipped from Joppa for a city in 
 Spain called Tarshish. Here on these shores, 
 cities have flourished and fallen back into ob- 
 livion, except as they are traced on the pages of 
 history. 
 
 Our people in America are taking their noon- 
 day meal, while we are at supper. The air is 
 
22 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 cooler than at Madeira. The passengers are ob- 
 serving the Sabbath, which is the same to the 
 Christian, whether on sea or land. Cleaving the 
 waters of the Mediterranean, Spain on one side, 
 Africa on the other. Our next stop will be Al- 
 geria. 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 23 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 ALGERIA. 
 
 "A soldier of the Legion lay dying in Algiers, 
 There was lack of woman's nursing, there was dearth 
 of woman's tears." — Norton. 
 
 Feb. 12 : We have had a fine run from Gibral- 
 tar, and now the ship is safely anchored in the 
 harbor of Algiers on the north shore of Africa. 
 Chartered boats carrying the American flag, took 
 us ashore. Five of us hired a carriage, and very 
 soon we were driving through the streets of the 
 city to view the sights of this most wonderful 
 place. 
 
 Algiers is controlled by the French. The Mo- 
 hammedan, or Moorish, part of the city, is ex- 
 tremely oriental. Here are women with veiled 
 faces, as in Egypt. Some wear flowing robes, 
 while the men appear dressed as in the days of 
 Abraham. We visited a Mosque, and were met 
 by a solemn faced official dressed in Mohamme- 
 dan costume. Carpets were spread on the floor, 
 but we dare not step on them, until we were 
 provided with sandals or slippers. Then he 
 quietly conducted us around, and in broken Eng- 
 lish, explained to us something of their form of 
 
24 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 worship. There are no seats in the Mohammedan 
 churches. We saw numbers of the people on 
 their knees, with bowed heads, and seemingly 
 concentrated thoughts, as they breathed forth 
 their prayers to Allah. Next we went to the burial 
 place of their dead. Everything seemed so 
 strange to us. The manner of conducting their 
 work was an object of interest. Work shops 
 were small. Some shoemakers had their kit of 
 tools and bench on the sidewalk. How different 
 in America. We observed the manner in which 
 the Mohammedan makes shoes, and we also ob- 
 served that as a rule the masses go bare foot. 
 
 Here we were again beset by beggars, blind, 
 lame, and leprous, on every side, which the guide 
 drove away. One little girl with a sweet face and 
 beautiful dark eyes kept following us and reach- 
 ing out her hand. I gave her a coin which 
 seemed to delight her. She ceased to hold out 
 her pretty little hand, saying in quite good 
 English "baksheesh." Some of the streets are 
 so narrow that only three persons can walk 
 abreast. Through these, vehicles never pass, 
 but the ever present donkey is here bearing his 
 burden, and always claims the right of way. 
 Returning to our carriages, we drove over the 
 French portion of the city, which, like Paris, is 
 beautiful. 
 
 We were taken to the governor's palace, and 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 25 
 
 enjoyed a pleasant walk through a grove of 
 forest trees. Oranges, figs, lemons and dates, 
 all flourish in abundance in and around Algiers. 
 The houses are white, built of stone with roofs 
 made of red tiling which gives them a bright and 
 pretty appearance. I was struck with the high 
 order of intelligence the Bedouins seemed to pos- 
 sess. Some of the women were dressed in white 
 satins and silks. Many appeared beautiful so 
 far as form, forehead, and sparkling eyes were 
 concerned, but their faces were veiled. Our 
 carriage ride, which was delightful, lasted four 
 hours, and after our long voyage from Gibraltar, 
 was greatly enjoyed by all. 
 
 We bade adieu to the city of Algiers. When 
 the ship's anchor was raised from the bottom of 
 the sea, the anchor chain brought up some earth 
 on which was a shell, that I was fortunate enough 
 to secure. I have had this shell mounted with 
 gold, and it makes a very pretty souvenir. I have 
 it on my watch chain. I do not wear it as an 
 amulet, to prevent evil, but simply as a remem- 
 brancer of my visit to the beautiful city of Al- 
 giers. This city at one time was infested with 
 pirates. 
 
 Feb. 13 : Our ship is again plowing the his- 
 toric waters of the Mediterranean. We are mak- 
 ing good time. We have said good-bye to Al- 
 giers forever, and feel that it was a great priv- 
 
26 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 ilege to visit the place, and set our feet on the 
 dark continent of Africa, whose shores are still 
 in sight. Sardinia is seen in the north. We have 
 passed the site of ancient Carthage, and are now 
 in the waters of the same great sea where Hanni- 
 bal waged war against the Romans. Now we are 
 passing the islands of Galita. They are bold and 
 prominent as they rise from the sea. One looks 
 like a camel in repose. How delightful the 
 balmy air which comes to us from the African 
 shore. 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 27 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 THE ISLAND OF MALTA. 
 
 "And when they were escaped, then they knew that the 
 island was called Melita."— Acts 28 :1. 
 
 Feb. 14: 6:30 a. m. I was on deck in time to 
 see the sun rise. The scene was transcendently 
 glorious. The sun came forth out of the ocean, 
 and poured a flood of light over the water, which 
 took on a gorgeous rose color, changing to gold. 
 The whole heavens were painted with a splendor 
 which pen can but feebly describe. 
 
 Our ship is now at the Island of Malta. The 
 bay is swarming with row-boats, painted in gay 
 colors, and all carrying flags, on which was a 
 lone star. We gazed in wonder, and reverential 
 awe, on the island which we were about to visit. 
 Nearly two thousand years ago Saint Paul landed 
 here. His wrecked ship went to pieces in the 
 fury of the waves, and the whole crew barely 
 escaped with their lives. Wet and cold, they built 
 a fire on this desolate shore. This fire not only 
 warmed the cold shipwrecked mariners, but also 
 a venomous viper which fiercely fastened on the 
 apostle's hand. To the utter astonishment of the 
 
28 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 natives, he shook it oft' into the fire and received 
 no harm. At first they thought he was a mur- 
 derer, escaped from the sea, whom judgment still 
 followed. When they saw no harm came from 
 the bite,, they concluded he was a god. Such is the 
 fickleness of human nature. ( hie day we are 
 borne on the high swells of admiration, and the 
 next we sink in the vortex of popular contempt. 
 Saint Paul lived on this island for a time, in great 
 favor with the governor, w hose name was 
 Publius. 
 
 i after landing we were conveyed to the 
 depot in c; Lir carriage drive here cost 
 
 only a sixpence. The city in which we landed is 
 called Valetta. Here the British government has 
 a fleet of warships, and because of the war in 
 South Africa, there was a large number of \ 
 anchored in the bay. Soldiers coming and g 
 gave the place a warlike appearance. 
 
 We visited the palace of the Governor, hut 
 could not enter at first because some meeting 
 in session. When the meel r, we were 
 
 permitted to enter. There were four of us. We 
 saw some of the most beautiful tapestry — flowers 
 wrought in various colors by the needle. We 
 were permitted to sit in the governor's chair. We 
 saw many things of interest to us. It is stated 
 that "It is yet the custom here, as in mediaeval 
 times, to ring bells in stormy weather, for the 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 29 
 
 purpose of warding off evil spirits and storm dis- 
 asters. The bells for this purpose are blessed by 
 priests and they are rung even in the dead of 
 night, to the perpetual annoyance of unbelievers." 
 Next, we passed into the Armory, where we saw 
 a vast display of ancient armor from both Greece 
 and Rome. We saw various implements of war- 
 fare, both offensive and defensive, spears, hel- 
 mets, shields, coats of mail wrought out of brass 
 and steel which had been used in ancient warfare. 
 Passing down the stairs, we were shown a large 
 carriage in which Emperor Napoleon rode with 
 the Governor of the island when he conquered it. 
 The carriage was a curiosity. It was very heavy, 
 and the tires on the wheels were bolted on in 
 sections. It did not possess the grace and ele- 
 gance of one of Studebaker's carriages made in 
 South Bend, Indiana. It was richly finished, and 
 no doubt in its day, was considered stately. 
 
 Our Maltese guide next conducted us to lunch, 
 which consisted of a cup of cocoa and biscuit. 
 The butter was made from goat's milk. We were 
 not a little amused to see the milk venders dis- 
 tributing their milk. They drive the goats around 
 on the streets, and stop in front of the various 
 residences. The customer desiring milk stands 
 and waits until it is milked from the goat. On 
 receiving the milk, he hands a half piastre to the 
 vender, who drives the goats to the next house 
 
30 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 and so continues until all his customers have been 
 served. This method had its advantages — there 
 is no chance for adulteration. The goats were 
 large and beautiful, very different from those in 
 America. We were told that one animal would 
 give 14 pints of milk at a milking. 
 
 We boarded the train after leaving our friend 
 with the goats, and a seven-mile ride brought 
 us to Citta Vecchia, another city of historic in- 
 terest. Along the way we passed many beautiful 
 gardens, and were told that the soil in those 
 gardens was brought from Palestine on barges. 
 The gardens were enclosed by stone walls, and 
 each one had a square stone house where the 
 gardener ate his lunch and kept his tools. 
 
 In Citta Vecchia we visited several places of 
 interest, among which was the site of the reputed 
 house of Publius, the chief man of the Island, 
 whose father Paul healed of a malignant disease. 
 This is recorded in the twenty-eighth chapter of 
 Acts. We also saw the Grotto, where the apostle 
 stayed for three months and then sailed for 
 Rome. I have no language to describe the Cathe- 
 dral, the church of Saint Paul. The paintings 
 were by Michael Angelo. One represented the 
 shipwreck of Saint Paul. In the Grotto under- 
 neath St. Francis Church was a life size statue 
 of Saint Paul in marble. Some of the gateways 
 were of solid silver. Wherever the eve turned 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 31 
 
 were paintings of sacred character. We saw St. 
 Paul's Bay, where the shipwreck occurred, and 
 where the apostle reached the shore. 
 
 We returned to Valetta and visited the Chapel 
 of Bones, where we saw the skulls of 2,000 per- 
 sons. These were arranged in a very artistic 
 manner so as to display them properly from the 
 floor to the dome. They were placed close to- 
 gether, while the bones of the other parts of the 
 body were corded up on shelves. These were the 
 bones of the Crusaders, who fell in battle with the 
 Turks, while on their way to rescue the holy city, 
 Jerusalem, from the hand of the Infidel. On an 
 altar, the following words were inscribed in 
 Latin : 
 
 "The world is a theatre, and human life is a 
 tragedy, 
 
 Every earthly thing is a personification of 
 vanity. 
 
 Death breaks and dissolves the illusion, and the 
 boundary of all worldly things. 
 
 Let those who visit this place ponder well these 
 maxims, and pray for the perpetual rest 
 of the dead lying here, and carry with 
 them a lively remembrance of death. 
 
 Peace by with you." 
 
 We next visited the school and museum. Here 
 are taught law, medicine and theology. The stu- 
 dents looked intelligent, and indeed all of us were 
 impressed by their appearance. The Maltese are 
 
32 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 dark complexioned, below medium height, and 
 have well developed heads. The young lady 
 clerks in stores were pretty, and intelligent. Al- 
 though their language is a mixture of Arabic and 
 Italian, they spoke the English language well. 
 They are reported to be a law abiding and indus- 
 trious people. The women wear a very unique 
 bonnet, or head covering, which is a bonnet and 
 cape combined. It is a one-sided affair made of 
 silk, black in color. It is stiffened on one side 
 by wire or rattan, which side they hold with 
 their left hand to protect their faces from the 
 sun, or the gaze of curious American tourists. 
 The name of the bonnet is "faldeta." 
 
 The harbor is a great rendezvous for the Brit- 
 ish warships. About thirty of immense size are 
 anchored in the bay. We saw a shipload of 
 militia on their way to South Africa, to relieve 
 a post so that the regular troops could go to the 
 front. They were nearly all young men, and 
 dressed in their scarlet uniforms, presented an 
 imposing picture. It seems dreadful to have this, 
 the flower and strength of the nation, destroyed 
 by the ravages of war. For awhile their ship lay 
 close alongside of ours, and they sang "God Save 
 the Queen," "My Country, 'Tis of Thee," and 
 gave cheers for America and England. As they 
 crowded the decks of their gallant ship, our party 
 took many snap-shot photographs of them. 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 33 
 
 We visited many stores, and were very much 
 interested in going through the markets. We 
 saw one thing that differed from our American 
 custom. We decapitate a fowl, and then divest it 
 of its feathers, but the Maltese pick the feathers 
 from the live creature, and kill it afterward. 
 
 We were delighted with the climate, which is 
 much like that of Southern California. The 
 whole face of the country between Valetta and 
 Citta Vecchia was a continuous succession of gar- 
 dens, each surrounded by a stone wall and pro- 
 vided with a small garden house. We saw the 
 natives using an exact type of the oriental plow, 
 which was simply a forked limb of a tree. One 
 side constituted the beam of the plow. This was 
 long, and to it was attached an ox, while the other 
 part was short, and formed the plow. In this 
 crude way they scratched the soil. At this sea- 
 son of the year vegetables were ready for use. 
 Barley was 20 inches high. The air was like that 
 of June. I could but think of my home in Michi- 
 gan, how cold it is there, while here winter is 
 scarcely known. But, O, this is not America. 
 
 The British fortifications here, as well as at 
 Gibraltar, possess great strength. Since Paul went 
 ashore, dripping with the saline waters of the sea, 
 surely God and man have wrought wonders in 
 this emerald isle. Malta is called "England's eye 
 in the Mediterranean." We left this interesting 
 
34 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 place with pleasant memories of the city and its 
 inhabitants. 
 
 Feb. 15: We left Malta on the evening of 
 Feb. 14, just as the great cannon thundered forth 
 the evening salute, and the vast rocks echoed, 
 while the smoke arose in dense volumes and 
 spread over the great ships of war. 
 
 Our gallant ship sailed all night and nothing 
 unusual happened. This morning finds us far 
 out at sea, and out of sight of land, rushing on 
 toward Egypt, which will be our next stop. This 
 evening we had a lecture on Palestine by Rev. 
 Penhallegon, of Decatur, 111., after which Mr. 
 Timothy B. Hussey, of North Berwick, Me., gave 
 an instructive talk on Palestine, in which country 
 he had resided a number of years. He used a 
 large map of Jerusalem to illustrate his subject. 
 
 Feb. 16: We are still on the Mediterranean, 
 cutting through the waves, but expect to anchor 
 in the harbor of Alexandria, Egypt, at 5 o'clock 
 next Saturday morning. The day has been un- 
 eventful, with nothing of importance to record 
 except that a fine entertainment was given this 
 evening. After the entertainment, a collection 
 was taken for the widows and orphans of the 
 South African war. The amount received was 
 over $50. 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 35 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 THE LAND OF EGYPT. 
 
 "Still through Egypt's desert places, 
 Flows the lordly Nile, 
 
 From its banks the great stone faces 
 Gaze with patient smile. 
 
 Still the Pyramids imperious 
 Pierce the cloudless skies, 
 
 And the Sphinx stares with mysterious 
 Solemn, stony eyes." — Longfellow. 
 
 Feb. 17 : We were dressed and on deck before 
 sunrise. The ship's speed slackened, and the 
 sailors began to take soundings. A light is seen 
 on the shore. Now we see it ; now it has van- 
 ished. Again it flashes and is seen far out at 
 sea. 
 
 We are in the Bay of Alexandria, and for the 
 first time, catch a glimpse of the shores of the 
 land of the Pharaohs. Now, by means of our 
 marine glasses, we see the steam tug with pilot 
 aboard, leaving the shore. The tug reaches our 
 ship, a rope ladder is thrown over the side, and 
 he ascends. He is dressed in English costume 
 and wears a scarlet cap. He immediately goes 
 to the captain's room and is now conferring with 
 
36 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 him in regard to our landing, which we expect to 
 be accomplished by 9 o'clock A. m. 
 
 What memories cluster around this old city 
 which we are about to enter ! We shall not re- 
 main here long, but shall proceed by rail to Cairo. 
 The sea presents a fine picture, a most beautiful 
 green, changing to light and dark blue. One 
 of the party said that if a painter were to pro- 
 duce a picture of the scene, it would be con- 
 demned by the critics as overdrawn. We are 
 having some difficulty in landing, because of the 
 shallowness of the water. In due time we landed 
 at Alexandria, being transported thither in small 
 row-boats manned by native Egyptians. On 
 reaching the harbor, we found it swarming with 
 row-boats. There was a clatter and a jam and 
 incoherent railing of the boat men, all anxious 
 to secure their share, and more if possible, of the 
 passengers. 
 
 In about one hour we were all safely landed 
 on the wharf, and for the first time, we could 
 truly say that we were in the land of the Pha- 
 raohs. We had not time to look about Alexandria. 
 but we secured our baggage and a nice box lunch, 
 provided from the steamer, and soon we were off 
 for Cairo, 131 miles distant. We had a delight- 
 ful ride in the quaint little English cars, which 
 had doors opening in the side. We passed 
 through a rich level country. It was as level as 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 37 
 
 the sea when calm, and as rich as earth can be 
 made. We passed many Egyptian villages, and 
 some good sized cities. The villages consisted of 
 mud huts, some of which were built round, others 
 square or rectangular. 
 
 We saw great numbers of cattle, camels and 
 donkeys. The crops of cotton, sugar cane, barley 
 and garden vegetables looked very luxuriant in 
 growth. The plow and ox yoke were such as the 
 people used in the time of Joseph. At one place 
 we saw many people gathered at a funeral. The 
 dead are not buried in the ground, but in stone 
 sarcophagi, or caskets, which remain above 
 ground. We caught a glimpse of the great pyra- 
 mids on our way. It was amusing to see the 
 natives riding donkeys and camels. As far as the 
 eye could reach over the level valley of the Nile 
 we could see fields of barley and cotton. 
 
 On the way, our train stopped for a rest, but 
 at 5 p. m. we reached Cairo. As we left the 
 train, such pulling, yelling, and gesticulating I 
 have seldom seen. Each of us must receive a 
 ticket of assignment to our respective hotels. 
 This caused a terrible jam and required one- 
 half hour. As each ticket was sent to us, we were 
 assigned to a certain omnibus. Here a crowd of 
 Arabs beset us on every side, wishing to carry 
 our satchels, or do some little service, for which 
 to demand a small fee. As we were about to 
 
38 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 enter our omnibus, we were again beset by a 
 crowd of beggars calling for ''baksheesh" which 
 means a present. We hear "baksheesh" every- 
 where. One is compelled to resort to force to 
 protect himself. I was deeply impressed at see- 
 ing so many who were blind. I was told it was 
 caused by flies and other insects, which prey on 
 the little children's eyes. Some attribute it to the 
 dust of hot summer. The Egyptians wear a cone- 
 shaped scarlet cap. Some are dressed in the most 
 extravagant style. 
 
 Feb. 18: This forenoon we visited one of the 
 mosques, of which there are 360 in the city. Slip- 
 pers were given to us, and as we were about to 
 put them on our feet our guide interposed, say- 
 ing that Americans need not put them on, but 
 simply dust their feet. This we did, and passed 
 inside to visit the interior of the mosque. If the 
 marble exterior was imposing, the interior far 
 surpassed it in beauty. I shall not attempt de- 
 scription. We saw several tombs of the 
 Khedives. These were of immense size and very 
 elaborate, being inlaid with marble, silver and 
 mother of pearl. 
 
 This forenoon I witnessed the Mohammedan 
 worship, which in this form, bordered on the ri- 
 diculous, and was at times disgusting and hideous. 
 The dervishes would howl and go through the 
 most exhausting physical gyrations I ever saw. 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 39 
 
 One old deceiver took a lamp chimney and pre- 
 tended to eat it. 
 
 The Egyptians are shrewd in their way, and 
 very much given to lying. Donkeys are seen 
 everywhere. All Egyptians of the middle and 
 lower classes go barefoot, and wear a Moham- 
 medan dress which looks very droll to us Ameri- 
 cans. The women are veiled. We visited the 
 reputed well of Joseph. It was an immense hole 
 20 feet square, drilled down through the solid 
 rock to a depth of 280 feet. Everything about it 
 showed it to be of great age. We were shown the 
 place where the last of the Mamalukes were 
 slain. One of them caused his horse to leap down 
 from a high precipice to escape, but was cap- 
 tured by a Khedive Ali Pasha. His noble horse 
 was killed, but the Mamaluke finally escaped. 
 There are marks of the horse's feet in the solid 
 rock shown to the credulous, but our director said 
 it was a modern device, simply to mark the place. 
 We were shown the spot where the Virgin Mary 
 rested with the child Jesus, while on her flight 
 into Egypt. We stood on the banks of the Nile, 
 not far from the place where Moses was found in 
 the bulrushes. 
 
 All these scenes awakened hallowed memories. 
 The appearance and habits of the people helped 
 to prove the divine truth of the Bible. We took 
 a stroll through many narrow streets and wind- 
 
40 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 ing ways of old Cairo. The traveler can be ac- 
 commodated with nearly everything, but pay is 
 expected by the natives for every favor. O, the 
 poverty, dirt and wretched condition of these in- 
 dolent people. We found the cemeteries very 
 interesting. We saw aqueducts built by the 
 Romans and were struck by their great size and 
 strength. Most of them are still standing, but 
 time is doing its work. 
 
 Monday, Feb. 19: Breakfast over, carriages 
 at the door, and we are away on a sight-seeing 
 trip. 11 a. m. We have just returned from an 
 extensive drive through the city of old Cairo. 
 The Mosque of Mahomet, built 666 years A. D., 
 by Sultan Hassen, showed age and extreme dilap- 
 idation of a once rich and splendid edifice. We 
 were stopped at the door by officials of the 
 Mosque, and slippers were placed on our feet. 
 When we came out of the Mosque, these slippers 
 were removed in a graceful manner by Egyptian 
 girls, who did not forget to extend their hands for 
 "baksheesh." It seems that every child is born 
 with "baksheesh" in its mouth and the dying have 
 the word upon their lips. Next we visited the old 
 Coptic Church, which is indeed a relic of an- 
 tiquity. It is called Abu Sargah, and is con- 
 sidered a good type of the ancient Egyptian 
 church. Tradition says that the crypts under the 
 church served as a refuge for the Holy Virgin 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 41 
 
 after her flight into Egypt. This crypt dates 
 from the Arab conquest, while the church above 
 is of more recent origin. 
 
 We next visited the island of Barada and 
 saw the Nilometer, where the rise and fall of the 
 river Nile is recorded. It is said to be on the site 
 where Moses was taken from the water. At 2 
 p. m. lunch is over and we are off for another 
 drive to see more of the Mohammedan mosques. 
 One built of marble is the finest in the city. It 
 was erected by one of the great rulers of the city, 
 but is fast going to ruin. I shall not attempt a 
 description. Nearly all the mosques present an 
 old appearance and show decay. May God 
 hasten the day, when on the fallen ruins of the 
 Mohammedan Church, shall be forever estab- 
 lished the kingdom of our Christ ; when the Koran 
 shall be forsaken, and the Christian's Bible fill 
 the world with truth and light. 
 
 As I sit in my room writing these lines, from 
 my window I can see a marriage procession. A 
 band is in front, and carriages of friends follow- 
 ing. I see something on the top of a man's head 
 like a cabinet organ. After him follows the 
 bride in a closed carriage, made more secure by 
 many Turkish rugs of various colors laid over 
 and hung about the carriage. Some of the equi- 
 pages are richly furnished, and leads me to think 
 that the marriage is of the better class. In this 
 
42 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 country woman is a mere toy or burden bearer, 
 and not like the queen of the American home. I 
 am convinced that the strength of any nation, 
 depends on the elevation of woman to her proper 
 place. 
 
 Feb. 20: To-day a long cherished desire has 
 been gratified — we have visited the Pyramids of 
 Egypt. These have been so minutely described in 
 almost every encyclopedia and guide book of 
 travels in this land, that for me to attempt a 
 description here is superfluous. The trip from 
 our hotel to the Pyramids was made in carriages 
 drawn by horses. The roads were macadamized 
 and bordered on each side by beautiful Acacia 
 trees. The valley of the Nile is a marvel of 
 beauty. Barley, alfalfa and garden vegetables 
 were growing as in the month of June in Amer- 
 ica. We met long caravans of camels carrying 
 their great loads of produce to the Cairo market. 
 Flocks of goats and Egyptian cattle were also 
 on their way to market. Sugar cane, oranges, 
 and all kinds of produce, are brought to market 
 on camels and donkeys. 
 
 There is one more burden bearer that I must 
 mention — woman. The mothers, wives and 
 daughters of the nation were going to market 
 barefoot, bearing heavy loads on their heads. 
 Instead of murmuring because of their hard lot, 
 they all seemed to be happy. The men were 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 43 
 
 dressed in white, and the women in black. We 
 passed a constant stream of humanity pouring 
 into the great city of Cairo. The physical endur- 
 ance of these people is marvelous. The immense 
 size of the Pyramids, like Niagara, grows on one 
 until he is almost bewildered. It required the 
 toil of 100,000 men twenty years to finish this 
 work. When I looked at the large size granite 
 blocks, dressed and placed in position, I was 
 dumb with wonder at the accomplishment of a 
 task so great. I passed through the entrance to 
 the tombs of the kings, and climbed the side of 
 the largest Pyramid until I had a fine view of the 
 valley of the Nile, and the great desert. 
 
 The Sphinx was next visited. This is also 
 another object of wonder. It is of great size, 
 and cut out of the solid rock. Such a 
 work is beyond the conception of the ordi- 
 nary individual. Standing on the base of 
 the great Sphinx, and while the sands of 
 the Desert of Sahara are drifting about me, I 
 write these lines. On our return, we visited the 
 Egyptian museum of Gizeh, which is open every 
 day from 9:30 a. m. to 4:30 p. m. We avoided 
 visiting the museum on Tuesday, as this is a free 
 day and open to all the lower classes of Arabs. 
 There are collections of antiquities in about eighty 
 rooms. We looked into the faces of the Rameses, 
 and I was especially interested in viewing the re- 
 
44 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 mains of old King Pharaoh, of the Exodus. 
 While I looked at the form, face and hands, my 
 thoughts went back to the time when the hard- 
 hearted old king so terribly abused God's people, 
 requiring them to make bricks, and compelling 
 them to gather a portion of the material, thus 
 abusing and tyrannizing over them until their cry 
 arose to God, who raised up a Moses to lead his 
 people out from this land of cruel bondage. We 
 saw many bricks of the same kind, that is, made 
 of mud and straw, as in the time of Moses. 
 
 One sees a great many things which appear 
 droll; a man sawing wood by holding the saw 
 and rubbing the stick upon it. I saw young 
 girls sitting down in the street, making camel's 
 dung into cakes, with their hands. These cakes 
 were dried and sold in the markets for fuel. 
 Goats and donkeys occupy the sidewalk, the goats 
 being driven from door to door and milked, in- 
 stead of sending the milk around by a milk 
 wagon. Eggs are small and in great demand. 
 Here cocoanuts hang on the stately palm trees. 
 
 Feb. 21 : To-day we visited Heliopolis, city of 
 the sun. Here was the great Egyptian school, 
 and here Moses received his education. We 
 looked on the only remaining obelisk. It is of 
 red granite, and stands as it stood when Moses 
 looked upon it thousands of years ago. Near this 
 great center of education, we were shown the 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 45 
 
 spot where Joseph and Mary rested with the babe. 
 The heart of a Christian is stirred by these things. 
 Here were the brick-yards of Egypt, and in this 
 very place we saw thousands of sun dried bricks 
 such as were made in the time of Moses, and 
 things no doubt are much the same now as then. 
 
 From the veranda of our hotel we see some 
 little acrobats, dressed in gay colored livery, per- 
 forming for us. Later. I am riding in a boat 
 on the Nile. Cocoa trees make a fringe of beauty 
 on the banks. O, this wondrous river Nile. I 
 am delighted to have the privilege of sailing on 
 the waters of the river where God, through the 
 word of Moses, caused it to run red with blood. 
 The sun is hot, like a typical South California 
 day. We see a man fishing, and recall to mind 
 the time when the fish in the river died. The 
 beauty and fertility of the Nile valley is unsur- 
 passed. When we had gone up the river as far 
 as we desired, our party disembarked. An old 
 Arab carried two of us on his back to the shore, 
 and then called for "baksheesh." On the banks 
 of the river we visited two Egyptian villages, and 
 were much interested in the mode of life of the 
 natives. We, however, were as much of a curios- 
 ity to them as they were to us. We could see the 
 women peeping through the crevices of the door 
 to catch a glimpse of the strange people from far 
 away America. I am more and more convinced 
 
46 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 that no nation can rise higher than the condition 
 of its women. 
 
 We saw many of -them carrying mortar in large 
 vessels on their heads to the men who were laying 
 brick. From a scaffolding which was not held 
 together by nails, but tied with ropes, the. men 
 continued to work in apparent security. Here 
 sugar cane is eaten by the Egyptians and Arabs. 
 The drawing of water was a primitive operation. 
 ( )xen and milch cows were hitched to a beam, 
 and. by going around in a circle, turned the 
 great wooden wheel on which is a band of ropes 
 having earthen jars attached. These jars fill with 
 water at the bottom of the well, or pit, and then 
 empty at the top into a large trough, which in 
 turn discharges into a ditch. In this manner 
 they irrigate their land. The poor animal is 
 blindfolded when started at the wheel, and she 
 continues to go round and round until stopped 
 by her driver. Thus far I have not seen a man 
 intoxicated in Cairo. Men jostle each other 
 through the narrow streets, but are polite and ap- 
 pear to have little trouble with each other. 
 
 Feb. 22: Washington's birthday in America. 
 The morning is cool, but as the sun ascends, it 
 will be hot again. T haw been reading the Bible 
 account of Joseph presenting his father to Pha- 
 raoh. 
 
 T am sitting on the porch of the Khedivial 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 47 
 
 hotel and looking at various modes of travel. 
 Some are mounted on camels and donkeys, others 
 on bicycles ; some are traveling by street car, 
 while the Arabs are walking barefoot. Veiled 
 women with the oriental water pitcher on their 
 heads, and men with great leathern bottles on 
 their backs are passing and repassing. There 
 goes a nobleman in a splendid equipage, pre- 
 ceded by trained runners dressed in gorgeous 
 livery. We could enumerate many other inter- 
 esting sights, but this morning must bid adieu to 
 Cairo. Farewell to Cairo, its river and valley, 
 forever. 
 
 After a ride of 130 miles through a fine coun- 
 try called the Delta of the Nile, we find our- 
 selves again in Alexandria. We had a carriage 
 drive for two hours over the city, visited Pom- 
 pey's Pillar and some of the principal streets, 
 after which we were taken to the wharf, where 
 many boats were waiting to carry us to our dear 
 old ship. We have become much attached to this 
 vessel. It has carried us thousands of miles, and 
 is our temporary home. After an absence of five 
 days, we are glad to reach home. 
 
 ( )ur ship is now bearing us out on the waters of 
 the great Mediterranean, and is heading for the 
 ancient city of Joppa, Palestine, which we hope 
 to reach to-morrow morning. Alexandria is re- 
 ceding from view. Farewell, Egypt, forever. 
 
48 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 The wonders of thy land, the many hallowed 
 memories shall ever remain engraved on mem- 
 ory's tablet. When thy monuments have all 
 crumbled, and the remains of thy temples are 
 forever obliterated ; when thy minarets and ob- 
 elisks have all fallen, and returned to dust, the 
 pages of history will still recite thy former great- 
 ness to future generations. 
 
 One of our party met with a painful accident 
 on entering the small boat to be carried to the 
 ship at Alexandria. She had her hand on the 
 edge of the boat when it collided with another 
 boat, and it was badly crushed. A jeweler filed 
 the rings off her fingers, and the ship's surgeon 
 dressed the wound. No deaths have occurred 
 aboard ship since we started, for which we are 
 truly thankful. Our manager has assured us that 
 none of our party shall be buried at sea. 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 49 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 PALESTINE. 
 
 Blest land of Judea ! thrice hallowed of song, 
 Where the holiest memories pilgrim-like throng, 
 
 In the shade of thy palms, by the shores of thy sea, 
 On the hills of thy beauty, my heart is with thee. 
 
 — Whit tier. 
 
 Feb. 23 : The outlines of Palestine are in view. 
 At 9 a. m. we shall land at Joppa. We had a 
 good rest last night. This morning there is a 
 strong head wind. Some of the party are fearful 
 we shall have a dangerous landing. Breakfast 
 is almost ready, and the passengers are all ready 
 for the landing. We have left a hot climate, low 
 lands and deserts, and are now in a higher alti- 
 tude. It is much cooler. 
 
 Our party all landed safely at Joppa. Here we 
 visited the house of Simon, the tanner. This vil- 
 lage had some of the finest and cheapest oranges 
 we have yet seen. Our visit here is much too 
 short. All is hurry, and now we are off for 
 Jerusalem. Passing through the Valley of Sharon 
 we gathered a few lilies of beautiful scarlet 
 color. We stopped at Ramleh, where Joseph of 
 Arimathea lived. Passing through the Valley of 
 
50 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 Ajalon, we reached the Judean Hills, and then 
 the mountains round about Jerusalem. Here we 
 are in the city over which Jesus wept. 
 
 After securing our rooms at the hotel, we 
 started out with our guide and visited the Place 
 of Wailing. We were taken through some of the 
 darkest and filthiest streets I have ever seen. O, 
 the wretchedness ! We could hardly pass the 
 loaded camels. There is a brightening day for 
 Jerusalem. More liberty is granted by the Turk- 
 ish government. We visited many fine stores and 
 shops. 
 
 Feb. 24: We were called early this morning 
 and breakfasted on the best of bread, butter, cof- 
 fee and honey. At 8 a. m. we started for the 
 Jordan, Jerico and the Dead Sea. Passing 
 toward the east, we visited the Garden of Geth- 
 semane, at the foot of the Mount of Olives. Far- 
 ther on we passed the cemetery on the side of the 
 hill overlooking the Valley of Jehoshaphat. 
 
 Here we first saw lepers. A group of them 
 stood by the wayside. Some had both hands off, 
 and, holding up the stumps, cried out most pite- 
 ously for help. Many were blind and deformed. 
 Some with one foot gone, hobbled after our car- 
 riage and cried out for "baksheesh." 
 
 Leaving this sad scene, we proceeded on the 
 road from Jerusalem to Jericho. We passed the 
 place where the man fell among thieves, and saw 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 51 
 
 the inn where the good Samaritan met him and 
 rendered assistance. Jesus used this incident 
 as an illustration to teach the lawyer whom he 
 should consider his neighbor. We saw the brook 
 Cherith, where Elijah was fed by the ravens. It 
 was a delightful picture to see the shepherds lead- 
 ing their flocks on the mountains of Judea. 
 
 The road from Jerusalem to the plain of Jeri- 
 cho is serpentine in its way through the moun- 
 tains, but smooth as a floor, and made of solid 
 rock. Our long train of carriages descended 
 3,800 feet to the Dead Sea. Jericho, once known 
 as the City of Palms, is where Rahab received the 
 spies, and where Joshua commanded the people 
 to march around the city while the priests blew 
 trumpets. The walls fell. 
 
 This afternoon we have visited the Dead Sea 
 and the fords of the Jordan where Israel crossed, 
 and where Jesus was baptized. On our way here 
 the Bedouins had a quarrel and it was somewhat 
 amusing to see them. Finally a cigarette all 
 around from our guide, settled them and on we 
 went. There were three horses abreast. The 
 drivers raced with each other at a frightful rate. 
 
 We are now stopping at the Gilgal Hotel, near 
 the site of ancient Jericho. To-day we drank 
 from the pool of Elijah, which is spoken of in the 
 Bible as the place where Elijah healed the bitter 
 waters and made them sweet. Many of our party, 
 
52 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 fatigued with the day's journey, have retired. 
 I shall do likewise, as to-morrow is Sunday, but, 
 nevertheless, we must start by half-past six for 
 Jerusalem. On the way we expect to visit Beth- 
 any, the home of Martha, Mary and Lazarus. 
 
 Our party is attended by great armed Bedouins, 
 who are acting as our guards. On our way we 
 passed a caravan of 200 camels. What a sight 
 it was to see those men and ships of the desert on 
 their way to Jerusalem. In strong contrast was 
 the sight of 28 carriages, each drawn by three 
 horses abreast and filled with sight-seeing Amer- 
 icans. Our Bedouin guards were mounted and 
 with great swords hanging from their sides they 
 galloped along the line to protect our party from 
 wild roving bands of desert robbers. 
 
 Feb. 25 : This forenoon we returned from 
 Jericho to Jerusalem. We visited the town of 
 Bethany, and saw the house of Martha and Mary. 
 From appearances it was the identical house in 
 which they lived. It was built entirely of stone 
 and was of great age. When we consider the 
 town of Bethany was never destroyed, it strength- 
 ens our belief that this was the original home of 
 Martha and Mary. We visited all the places of 
 interest in Bethany. It seemed strange to us that 
 we were on the spot where our blessed Lord 
 raised Lazarus from the dead, and where Mary 
 chose the good part. 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 53 
 
 We arrived in Jerusalem at I p. m., in time 
 for lunch, after which we visited the Church of 
 the Holy Sepulchre, and other places of interest. 
 This evening we attended an English church, the 
 pastor of which thinks the Jews will be gathered 
 home to this city. He says when he came to Je- 
 rusalem a few years ago, there were only 8,000 
 Jews here, but now they number 50,000. He 
 spoke earnestly about their conversion and said 
 that he had received more than 500 Jewish con- 
 verts into his church. 
 
 Feb. 26: We arose early this morning and 
 after breakfast four of us, with a guide, took a 
 carriage for Bethlehem, six miles distant, south 
 of Jerusalem. On our way thither, our drago- 
 man pointed out the Valley of Hinnon. We vis- 
 ited the tomb of Rachael, for whose hand Jacob 
 served fourteen years. RachaeFs remains repose 
 here alone where she gave up her life for that of 
 her infant son. Benjamin. Jacob's grave is in He- 
 bron. We all experienced sorrow as we stood 
 by the lonely grave of Rachael. Our next stop 
 was at Solomon's Pools. They are situated in a 
 valley through which runs a stream in time of 
 rain. There are three pools nearly 150 yards 
 long. The lower one is the largest. They were 
 great in their day. After visiting the pools, we 
 were driven into the village of Bethlehem, and 
 were shown the place where the infant, Christ, 
 
54 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 was born. A feeling of deep reverence took pos- 
 session of our hearts. We ministers, on bended 
 knees breathed a prayer of thanks to God for the 
 "unspeakable gift." The site of Bethlehem has 
 never been disputed. The sanitary condition of 
 the town is not good. Squalid women, children, 
 dogs and donkeys occupy the sidewalk, the don- 
 key having the right of way. It appeared to us 
 that the whole village had come out to see us. 
 The trinket venders beset us in the wildest man- 
 ner, almost dragging us into their stores and 
 shops to purchase their wares. Here the workers 
 in mother-of-pearl are seen, making beautiful 
 articles from the crude shell. These articles are 
 of trinket variety, and are for sale. One part of 
 the village was a great improvement on the other. 
 The buildings were entirely of stone from foun- 
 dation to roof. 
 
 We returned to Jerusalem for lunch, and then 
 went with our guide to visit the Mosque of Omar, 
 which stands on the site of the ancient temple of 
 Solomon. I think this Mohammedan church is 
 the finest I have yet seen. The interior of the 
 great dome sparkles with mosaics of pearl. I 
 shall not attempt to describe the richness and 
 grandeur of this edifice. 
 
 Next we visited the stables of Solomon. These 
 have been exhumed and are in an excellent state 
 of preservation. We next went to visit the Pool 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 55 
 
 of Bethsaida. It lies very deep below the surface 
 and has the appearance of being the original pool 
 where Christ healed the man, who told 
 him that when the waters were troubled, he had 
 no one to put him into the pool, but while he was 
 waiting some one stepped in before him. We saw 
 the Hall of Pilate, which has been brought to 
 light from the depths of the ruins. After slum- 
 bering there nearly two thousand years, this Hall 
 was well preserved. The color of the paint was 
 still bright. One is almost bewildered with the 
 many things he hears and sees. 
 
 Feb. 27 \ Dark and raining. This morning I 
 started to visit the Jewish quarters, but after vis- 
 iting a few places, the rain came down in such 
 torrents that I decided to go no further, and re- 
 turned to my temporary home, the Howard 
 Hotel, to dry my clothing. Those who continued 
 sight-seeing this morning, returned dissatisfied. 
 This is the season of tourists, and they are pour- 
 ing into Jerusalem. A Gaze party has just left, 
 and besides our large party, under able man- 
 agement, Cook landed a party last night. The 
 ladies' parlor had to be given up to sleepers. I 
 am convinced that this city, and some others in 
 this country of the Orient, are greatly supported 
 by tourists. 
 
 I am very solicitous, indeed I am anxious, in 
 regard to our seven days' horseback ride from 
 
56 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 Jerusalem to Galilee. I am not very well, but if 
 I take this ride, I must make the best of it. I 
 trust that the same Hand that has led me thus 
 far, will continue to lead me safely through the 
 land of Jesus, and the land of Abraham, Isaac 
 and Jacob. 
 
 This afternoon I have visited the Mount of 
 Olives, and looked over the city of Jerusalem. It 
 was one of the finest views I have ever seen. As 
 the Saviour sat here and looked at the city of 
 His day, with its temple in which the ancient 
 people of God worshipped, as He saw it in. all its 
 glory, He wept because, in prophetic vision, He 
 beheld its downfall. Leaving the Mount of 
 Olives, we went into the Garden of Gethsemane, 
 where Jesus wept and prayed. Next we visited 
 the Tombs of the Kings, which were truly won- 
 derful. 
 
 Feb. 28 : Still it rains. My cold caused me to 
 cough considerably during the night, and, as I 
 am not feeling well I have decided that it would 
 not be prudent for me to go for the horseback 
 ride across Palestine. I am disappointed, but 
 this is a world of disappointments. The party are 
 all excitement over the horseback trip. The most 
 friendly feeling exists in the party. The trip is a 
 great undertaking, but the Lord has been good 
 to us. 
 
 I am now about 7,000 miles from my home. I 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 57 
 
 have received no letter yet from my homeland ex- 
 cept from Bro. Sickafoose. I expect mail from 
 my wife and oldest son at Bey rout. In this far 
 distant foreign land it is a comfort to think that 
 I have a home and loved ones. 
 
 I am sitting in the Howard Hotel, looking out 
 on the southern part of Jerusalem, and have vis- 
 ited all places of note in and around the city : 
 namely, Mount of Olives, Jordan and the Dead 
 Sea, Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Tombs of 
 the Kings, Solomon's Pools, and Jewish quar- 
 ters. How many times I have heard of the dogs 
 and donkeys of Jerusalem. The dogs have a 
 wolfish look, but seem to be peaceable. They are 
 the scavengers of the city, and appear to realize 
 their inferior dog position in the city's economy ; 
 but pedestrians must all stand aside for the don- 
 key, for he realizes that he has the right of way 
 on the sidewalk. The butter here is the poorest I 
 have ever eaten. It is churned in a goat-skin. 
 The milk is placed in the skin, which is then 
 shaken and kicked about until it is, as they say, 
 "finish." This is a great word among the Arabs 
 — finish. In the city of Cairo, Egypt, I remem- 
 ber calling for milk in my coffee at the hotel, but 
 the waiter shook his head and said "finish." By 
 this he meant that the milk was exhausted — 
 there was none. 
 
 I am jotting down these notes in a small 
 
58 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 pocket memorandum book, and I now discover 
 that I am on the last page of volume i, and must 
 procure another book. As I close the first vol- 
 ume, I must record that I am now enjoying the 
 cherished desire of many years, the event of my 
 ministerial life, a trip to the Holy Land. 
 
 March t : This morning we have said fare- 
 well to Jerusalem, and are on our way to Joppa, 
 where we shall board the ship for Caifa, on oui 
 way to Galilee. O, what memories cluster 
 around these historic places. The cars are ready 
 to start. Good-bye, Jerusalem, Bethlehem and 
 Bethany, cities in which Jesus was born, rested, 
 taught and lived. In the present city of 60,000 
 there is not a mill, factory or newspaper. When 
 we contemplate its past glory, and contrast it 
 with its present condition, with the hand of the 
 Turk still heavy upon it, we are convinced that 
 the fate promised by Christ is still resting on 
 Jerusalem. 
 
 We are now on board the steamer for Caifa, 
 with the weather warm and balmy. Joppa is in 
 full view on the shore, with its matchless groves 
 of oranges. We have transversed the Mediterra- 
 nean Sea from one end to the other, a distance of 
 nearly 2,000 miles. How good our God is, and 
 how manifold His mercies. We render praise 
 and thanksgiving to Him for His protecting care 
 on this long voyage. 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 59 
 
 Near this place Jonah took ship to flee from 
 the call of God to preach the gospel at Nineveh. 
 We landed at Caifa at 9 in the evening. It was 
 dark. We were taken ashore in rowboats. The 
 Arabs were unusually boisterous, and finally 
 came to blows. My cold is more severe, and is 
 affecting my eyes, head, throat and lungs. 
 
 March 2: We were booked for Mt. Carmel, 
 but for the present were brought to a nunnery. 
 We are, however, in full view of the mountain 
 where Elijah called down fire from Heaven. Our 
 carriages are ready and we start for Nazareth. 
 Just before we entered the Plain of Esdraelon. 
 we stopped for lunch. Mt. Carmel is in full view, 
 where God sent fire to consume the sacrifice, and 
 where he slew four hundred prophets of Baal. 
 The scenery here is picturesque. The Plain 
 spreads out before us in wondrous beauty. In 
 this Valley, the Philistines fought with King 
 Saul, and in this vicinity ended the life of Saul 
 and his sons, among whom was the noble Jona- 
 than, David's most intimate friend. I look on 
 this scene with much emotion. We have passed 
 the place where Deborah and Barak overcame 
 the Canaanites, and where Jael drove the nail 
 into the temple of the enemy's leader. 
 
 I am now sitting in the shadow of a great rock 
 on the way to Nazareth, six miles distant. We 
 have crossed the Plain of Esdraelon, and while 
 
60 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 our Arabian horses are resting at the foot of the 
 mountain, I have come on before to find time to 
 write. The view is magnificent. Two villages 
 are in sight. To-night we shall stay at Nazareth, 
 where Jesus was raised from the dead. How our 
 hearts swell with emotions at the thought of 
 being near this place. The country about here 
 presents a fine subject for a painter. There are 
 three priests in the carriage in which I am riding. 
 The four horses drawing the vehicle are re- 
 quired to do their best in crossing the plains, 
 which were almost impassable because of recent 
 rains. It recently rained continuously for 20 
 hours. 
 
 Now the party have left the carriages and are 
 walking up the mountain side to relieve the 
 horses. We have now reached Nazareth, and 
 are stopping at a Catholic Hospice, where we 
 were well entertained. This town was the early 
 home of Jesus. It is now a city of 8,000 inhab- 
 itants and possesses some good bazaars and 
 hotels. We visited the home of Joseph and Mary. 
 
 Oriental life and customs are seen on every 
 hand. We saw the maidens of the town come to 
 the Virgin's Fountain, fill their pitchers, enjoy a 
 little social gossip and then place their pitchers 
 on their heads and walk away to their homes as 
 if those pitchers, which hold at least two gallons, 
 were simply ornaments for their heads. This 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 61 
 
 fountain flows out of a rock, and at this point, 
 pours forth from two great stone spouts, and 
 flows over a stone floor where the women come 
 to wash clothing. 
 
 March 3: We left Nazareth at 7:30 a. m. 
 and proceeded around the Mountain, again hav- 
 ing an excellent view of the town. Soon we ar- 
 rived at Cana, of Galilee, where our Lord 
 wrought His first miracle — the turning of water 
 into wine. We visited the same fountain where 
 the servants obtained the water, which, after it 
 was turned to wine, the governor pronounced the 
 best of the feast. 
 
 The village of Cana is not very clean. The 
 people live mostly in mud huts. The faces of the 
 women have a discouraged look, and they all 
 have an unkempt appearance. There is great deg- 
 radation of society here under Turkish rule. 
 We visited the place where the marriage referred 
 to in the New Testament occurred. Bidding 
 adieu to Cana, our procession of 21 carriages 
 moved on up the Lebanon Valley toward the Sea 
 of Galilee. We rested and took lunch at a place 
 by the wayside near a pool of water. The day 
 was hot and our noble horses were very warm. 
 As there was not a tree in sight, we ate our 
 lunch in our carriages. As I write these lines, I 
 remember that our Lord went back and forth 
 to Jerusalem and Capernaum. 
 
62 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 I have left the carriages and walked ahead and 
 now I have a fine view of the lofty hills on the 
 other side of the sacred Sea of Galilee. Mt. 
 Tabor and Mt. Hermon are in view. As I walk, I 
 am thrilled with the first sight of the sea and 
 mountains. Hermon is covered with snow and 
 ice and its grandeur fills my heart with emotion. 
 How much I wish my friends could also behold 
 this beautiful scene ! I am reminded of the song, 
 and it is now on my lips, "O, Galilee, sweet Gali- 
 lee." On this very ground Jesus fed the five 
 thousand. On my "left is the Mount of Beati- 
 tudes, where He preached the sermon on the 
 Mount. 
 
 We are now entering Tiberias, and the people 
 of the town have come out to see us. They could 
 see our train of carriages coming down the 
 mountain side for half an hour before we reached 
 the town, and they have lined the roadway on 
 both sides — young men and maidens, and an es- 
 cort of Turkish soldiers, thus showing great re- 
 spect to the strange Americans. At our first 
 meal in Tiberias we dined on fresh fish from the 
 Sea of Galilee. I am settled in a good room and 
 shall rest. 
 
 March 4 : Sunday. I am sitting by the Sea of 
 Galilee, watching the fishermen who are taking 
 fish from their boats as Peter, James and John 
 did in the days of Christ. There are women with 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 63 
 
 their water pitchers wading out into the sea to 
 fill them. We have crossed the sea to Caper- 
 naum. I have read that part of the New Testa- 
 ment aloud which relates to the ministrations of 
 our Lord about this place. 
 
 What a lovely trip we had across the sea. I 
 behold but a few ruins and broken columns, 
 which are all the visible remains of ancient Ca- 
 pernaum. This city, in His day, was exalted unto 
 Heaven, but now, according to His word, is 
 thrust down to Hell. We saw gardens, flowers 
 and lemon trees, and also saw them baking bread. 
 Next we took a boat, manned by Arabs, and 
 were soon landed on the ancient site of Bethsaida. 
 Here the roses rivaled those of Southern Cali- 
 fornia. Oranges, figs, and lemons grow in rich 
 profusion. The day is warm. We shall take 
 lunch here overlooking the sea. Our Arabs are 
 keeping up such a jargon that I can scarcely 
 write. They are not modest, according to Amer- 
 ican standards. We were carried to our row- 
 boats in the arms of Arabs who were almost 
 naked. 
 
 Last evening we attended the preliminaries of 
 a wedding. We heard the cry and saw a pro- 
 cession advancing carrying a light. We followed 
 and were received into a hall where there was 
 music and dancing. The mother of the bride 
 appeared delighted, and led in the merriment of 
 
64 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 the evening. Presently a servant entered carry- 
 ing a tray containing cups of fine jelly and a lot 
 of silver spoons. Each of lis Americans took a 
 spoon, dipped it into a cup of jelly, and, after 
 tasting it, placed the spoon in an empty glass. 
 After each of us had been served in turn in this 
 manner, next came a tray of small cups of coffee. 
 After partaking of the coffee, we insisted on see- 
 ing the bride. She was a good looking girl and 
 shook hands with each of us. Next came the 
 groom, a solemn faced boy of 15 years. He also 
 shook hands with all American tourists, then re- 
 turned to his seat. More dancing followed and 
 we left. The couple will be married eight days 
 later. 
 
 This afternoon we took a stroll through the 
 town and were astonished at its unsanitary con- 
 dition. Here are these people in ignorance, while 
 Protestant Christianity would educate and uplift 
 them. In the morning we shall start for Caifa, 
 where we shall meet our ship. We must soon 
 bid farewell to Galilee forever. To me it is the 
 most beautiful sheet of water I have ever seen. 
 This is the place where Peter, James and John 
 left their unmended nets to rot on the shore, and 
 followed the blessed Christ who made them fish- 
 ers of men. 
 
 This evening I attended services in a Scotch 
 Presbyterian Hospital. I visited the sick and 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 65 
 
 was called on to pray. An Arabic woman acted 
 as interpreter, sentence by sentence, as I offered 
 prayer. It was a joy to mingle with Christians 
 so far from home. I was deeply moved with 
 sympathy for the poor suffering ones who were 
 afflicted here where the Master cured so many, 
 but He is still carrying on His blessed work 
 through this institution. We shall leave here at 
 7 a. m. to-morrow. 
 
 March 5 : All are astir preparing to start on 
 our journey. Sixty-two horses must be made 
 ready. We have a long hill to climb in starting 
 for Caifa where we shall meet our ship, but we 
 must remain over night at Nazareth. Our de- 
 parture was rather imposing. A line of Turkish 
 soldiers, armed, and in full uniform, were drawn 
 up on each side of the street. A large number 
 of citizens gathered to see us start. When all 
 was ready a blast from a bugle was given as a 
 signal and our 20 carriages began to move up the 
 side of the mountain. It was an inspiring spec* 
 tacle to see so large a party of American citizens, 
 returning from a visit to the places frequented h y 
 their loving Lord. After a slow march of two 
 hours, we could look directly down on the Sea of 
 Galilee, the River Jordan, and the ancient sites 
 of the Capernaum and Bethsaida. To the north, 
 snow capped Mt. Hermon lifted his majestic 
 form to an altitude above the clouds. The day 
 
66 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 was perfect and the sea appeared to slumber in 
 peace as when Jesus said, ''Peace, be still." We 
 reached an altitude of 1500 ft. and the scene 
 seemed to lie in grace and beauty just below us. 
 Surely this was the most inspiring picture of na- 
 ture I have ever had the privilege to behold, and 
 the scene will never be forgotten. 
 
 "Blue sea of the hills ! — in my spirit I hear 
 Thy^ waters, Genesaret, chime on my ear; 
 
 Where the Lowly and Just with the people sat down, 
 And thy spray on the dust of His sandals was thrown. 
 
 Beyond are Bethulia's mountains of green 
 And the desolate hills of the wild Gadarene, 
 
 And I pause on the goat crags of Tabor to see 
 The gleam of thy waters, O dark Galilee." 
 
 Along our way we met caravans of camels 
 driven by great rough looking Bedouins, but the 
 entire road from Tiberias on the Sea, to Naza- 
 reth, was made safe by the Turkish guards. 
 
 We are now safely domiciled in a strong 
 monastery which affords us excellent entertain- 
 ment. To-day on our return from Galilee we 
 again passed through Cana. I bathed my hands 
 in the stream of the same fountain from which 
 the water was taken that was turned into wine. 
 This stream gushes from the rock and makes a 
 pool which is curbed with hewn stone. There is 
 an abundance of this water for the entire village, 
 and it is a novel sight to see the women come to 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 67 
 
 this fountain to fill their pitchers. In all nry 
 travels in the Orient I have seen only one man 
 carrying water. I presume they think it is be- 
 neath their dignity. 
 
 March 6: Morning at Nazareth. I arose 
 early, as we have a long drive to-day, but with 
 our four Arabian horses, we expect to arrive at 
 Caifa at i P. m. Just now some Arab boys are 
 quarreling for the privilege of blacking the shoes 
 of a priest. These baksheesh people are very 
 hard to satisfy. 
 
 Our carriages are now ready and we say fare* 
 well to the only home of our blessed Lord. How 
 often in memory we shall return and behold those 
 hills, made sacred by the footprints of Him who 
 redeemed us. Oriental life is seen on every hand, 
 and the firm grasp of the Turk will ever keep it 
 so until God shall lift his heavy hand from the 
 necks of the groaning people. 
 
 11:15 a. m. We have made good time this 
 forenoon, having just finished lunch, and are rest- 
 ing under a large live oak in full view of Mt. 
 Carmel. We see the range of mountains, and on 
 the spot where Elijah offered sacrifice, stands a 
 building. What a privilege to look on these his- 
 toric places, where God manifested His power 
 and vindicated His prophet. In imagination I 
 can hear the prophet calling down fire from 
 Heaven to consume the sacrifice. 
 
68 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 We are far on our way now ; Caifa is in view, 
 and the day after to-morrow we shall board our 
 ship again, after twelve days of travel without an 
 unoccupuied hour. This is like a June day. 
 Farmers are plowing their fields, and the fig 
 trees are putting forth their leaves. Oranges of 
 the finest quality are grown in this Mediterra- 
 nean country. We have reached Caifa in good 
 time, and are again in the same hospitable place 
 where we stopped before we started to Galilee. 
 Our accommodations are excellent. Mt. Carmel, 
 behind which the sun is hidden long before he 
 sets, is still in full view. We expect our ship to- 
 morrow. We have heard that the sea at Joppa 
 is very rough and this may delay our ship. We 
 expect to drive up Mt. Carmel to-morrow and 
 visit the spot where Elijah prayed for rain. To- 
 day I called at the office of the American Con- 
 sul, over whose building the Stars and Stripes 
 were floating, but he was not in. 
 
 March 7: Last night we were at the Hospice, 
 a Catholic Institution kept by Sisters, and we 
 were well entertained with vocal and instrumen- 
 tal music. This morning the sea is more calm, 
 and we are waiting for our carriages before 
 making the ascent of Mt. Carmel. This climate 
 is much like that of Southern California. We 
 are learning a great deal about geography and 
 human nature on this wonderful trip. As I look 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 69 
 
 out of my window, I see the town of Acre, where 
 the Crusaders made their headquarters. This 
 forenoon we ascended half way up Mt. Carmel 
 in carriages, but were obliged to walk the re- 
 mainder of the distance to the summit. We vis- 
 ited a monastery situated on a high point run- 
 ning out into the sea, also the Grotto, or reputed 
 cave where Elijah lived, near the School of the 
 Prophets. I shall read my Bible with new inter- 
 est. 
 
 Word comes to us from Mt. Carmel that our 
 ship, with the Egyptian section of our party, is 
 in sight. We have been separated twelve days, 
 and it will be pleasant to meet again. I must 
 soon leave this strange people, these historic 
 grounds and this Institution, kept by the Sisters, 
 who have made our stay very pleasant. The 
 houses here are of stone, with tile floors and roof, 
 and have no wood about them except the window 
 frames and doors. I have not heard a fire alarm 
 during my sojourn in the Orient. 
 
 Our ship has arrived and we are all aboard. It 
 seems like home again. To-night we start for 
 Beyrout, Syria, where we expect to arrive to- 
 morrow. Farewell, Palestine, forever. My 
 room-mate, Dr. Noble, is ill and I have changed 
 rooms. I slept well last night, but am much dis- 
 appointed in getting no mail from home. 
 
 March 8: This day is ever remembered by 
 
70 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 me, as 52 years ago my father died, and I always 
 remember it wherever I am. Here in this far 
 away land I record my fond remembrance of him 
 who worked and planned for his children. Our 
 ship is now about to anchor in the harbor of 
 Beyrout. The great snow covered mountains of 
 the Lebanon range are in full view. The Jordan 
 River has its source in these majestic mountains. 
 Our party is now landing in small boats, but 
 as the weather is rainy. I think I shall not go 
 ashore now. Beyrout is beautiful in appearance, 
 and one of the most attractive objects is the Amer- 
 ican College. To-day on board the ship, I met Mr. 
 Niselv. of Dayton, Ind., who is well acquainted 
 with all my old friends and neighbors in that 
 locality. We had a pleasant visit together. He 
 is engaged in educational work in Beyrout. Some 
 say that Beyrout has over 100,000 inhabitants. 
 This is the extreme eastern point of our cruise 
 and we now turn the ship's prow westward. Some 
 of the passengers are again seasick, but I have 
 not yet experienced the dread complaint. 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 71 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 SMYRNA. 
 
 "And unto the angel of the church in Smyrna write." 
 
 — Revelations 2 :8. 
 
 March 9 : The morning dawns bright and 
 clear as crystal. On our right are seen the great 
 snow-covered mountains of Asia Minor. Dur- 
 ing the night we passed Cyprus, and to-day we 
 shall pass Rhodes, and to-morrow morning land 
 at Smyrna. There is a strong head wind but the 
 Captain says we can make better speed for the 
 wind gives a better draft to the fires under the 
 boilers of the engines. We are making excellent 
 time. The motion of the ship renders writing 
 somewhat difficult. The ship is making 321 miles 
 per day. 
 
 The bugle sounds for breakfast. I notice the 
 passengers are not so merry as they were at first 
 because of the fatigue of travel, but all seem 
 happy. To-day I received a package of letters 
 from my son Edward. It was a real treat, and 
 afforded me a pleasant surprise. Our grand old 
 ship is now passing the Isle of Rhodes. It has 
 no trees or verdure, and appears the very throne 
 
72 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 of desolation. It contains a lighthouse whose 
 beams flash far out to sea to warn voyagers and 
 give them safety. This lone light tower, standing 
 out on a lofty peak, appears to me like a sentinel 
 soldier, standing at the post of duty. The great 
 Colossus has long since fallen, and we shall see 
 no traces of its ancient greatness. 
 
 March 10: I am now writing at the tomb of 
 Polycarp, the martyred Bishop of Smyrna. We 
 arrived at 7 :uo this morning. Smyrna is a large 
 town in Asia Minor, famous for its rugs. It is 
 situated on a beautiful bay, which at present is 
 full of ships. The people appear better educated, 
 and more advanced than those in many of the 
 towns which we have visited. We took a walk 
 through the bazaars and saw many of the rugs 
 and carpets. 
 
 One of our party had a quarrel with the guide, 
 who was negligent of his duty. I have learned 
 by experience that every tourist must be cautious 
 or he will be most shamefully imposed upon by 
 some of the guides, who are ready to fabricate 
 almost anything which they think will please the 
 American taste. I have seen many people who 
 do not live, but simply exist ; while, on the other 
 hand, there are some of our lady tourists in our 
 party who require so much waiting on, that our 
 ship steward appears to have a fatigued look 
 whenever they call him. 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 73 
 
 This afternoon we are spending our time in 
 the cabin writing. Our ship has given a shrill 
 whistle which sounds to me much like our fire 
 alarm in Buchanan, and we are informed that we 
 shall start for Constantinople at 5 p. m. 
 
 March 1 1 : Sunday morning. Our good ship 
 sped on through the night, winding its way 
 among the many islands in this part of the Med- 
 iterranean Sea, while our Captain remained on 
 the bridge all night long with watchful eye on 
 our course, lest we should be wrecked on the 
 rocks. 
 
74 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 "The European with the Asian shore 
 Sophia's cupola with golden gleam, 
 
 The cypress grows — Olympus high and hoar, 
 The twelve isles, and the more than I could dream." 
 
 — Byron. 
 
 Now we are passing through the Dardanelles, 
 not far from the site of ancient Troy. The Dar- 
 danelles is 40 miles long and from 1 to 4 miles 
 wide. From both sides its forts of frowning can- 
 non stand guard over the land of the Sultan. The 
 Turk holds both sides of the Dardanelles. We 
 are now in the same latitude as New York, and 
 the morning is cold. We have passed through 
 the Dardanelles, crossed the Sea of Marmora and 
 are passing up the Bosphorus, which enters the 
 Black Sea. After steaming up the Black Sea a 
 short distance, we shall return at 3 p. m. and 
 land at Constantinople. We have traveled so far 
 north since leaving Palestine that the weather here 
 is as cold as Michigan. I am sitting in the for- 
 ward salon awaiting the hour for religious 
 service. 
 
 This morning I obtained permission from the 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 75 
 
 chief engineer to visit his department, the magni- 
 tude of which grows on one. The ship has two 
 main shafts of steel 15 inches in diameter and 
 180 feet long. These pass through the stern of 
 the ship and on the end of each is the mighty 
 propeller, which, under the influence of steam, 
 drives the vessel forward at the rate of 380 miles 
 a day. 
 
 5:30 p. m. We are now anchored in the Bos- 
 phorus, and Constantinople is in view. It pre- 
 sents a gorgeous appearance. The great Mosque 
 of Sancta Sophia, with its four tall minarets, 
 the palace of the Sultan, and in fact the whole 
 city is spread out before us. We shall remain 
 aboard to-night and go ashore to-morrow. The 
 weather is cold. Our mail has just been brought 
 aboard, and O, what an eager crowd to hear 
 from home and friends. Mail from America 
 inspires everyone with new life. I received a 
 letter from my wife, one from my sister-in-law, 
 Mrs. Elizabeth Hawkins, and one from my son, 
 Edward. I was exceedingly glad to receive 
 these letters from my home, and I do hope that 
 those which I have written will reach their 
 destination. 
 
 I have read the "Prince of India", by General 
 Wallace, wherein is recorded the great conquest 
 of Mohamet, his victory over Constantine, and 
 the taking of this city of Constantinople, and to- 
 
76 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 morrow we expect to walk the streets and visit 
 the places of interest. As I look out and see 
 a boat approaching bearing the American flag, 
 my patriotic American heart beats faster. 
 
 March 12: This is Monday morning and we 
 are still anchored in the channel in front of the 
 city, but we shall go ashore at 8 a. m. Two sad 
 deaths have occurred in our party. 
 
 We have landed and I am on the top of Galata 
 Tower, having a fine view of the city. This 
 forenoon we took a boat ride up the Golden Horn 
 and back again. Our ascent of the Galata Tower 
 was fatiguing, but I was repaid by the view I 
 had of the city with its million inhabitants. This 
 great city, called by the Turk, Stamboul, or 
 Istamboul, is the ancient Byzantium. Here, two 
 civilizations and religions struggled for mastery. 
 On May 29, 1453, ^ le Turks, numbering 250,000, 
 led by Mahomet the Conquerer, successfully 
 stormed the city, which was valiantly defended 
 by that noble Monarch, Constantine XIII, with 
 only 5,000. 
 
 Constantinople fell into the hands of the Turk, 
 who entered amid awful pillage, rapine, and 
 slaughter, and still holds the city as his capital. 
 
 On that fateful day the Christian religion and 
 its emblems were swept away, and the Moslem 
 religion, which remains to this day, was es- 
 tablished. 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 77 
 
 We visited Sancta Sophia. The present church 
 was built in the sixth century by the Emperor 
 Justinian. It required ten thousand workmen 
 seven years to complete the structure. Materials 
 were brought from every part of the Empire. It 
 contains remains of many pagan temples. The 
 dome of the tabernacle was of pure gold, sur- 
 mounted by a gold cross weighing 75 pounds and 
 encrusted with precious stones. All the sacred 
 vessels were of gold. Altar cloths embroidered 
 with gold and pearls. The altar itself was a mass 
 of molten gold, into which were thrown pearls, 
 sapphires, diamonds, onyxes, and everything 
 which could increase its value. Its cost was 
 about sixty-five million dollars. 
 
 It was taken from Constantine by Mahomet, 
 who made some changes in this, the greatest 
 wonder of antiquity of its kind now in existence. 
 The architecture and design are of a high order. 
 Many of the columns were brought from afar, 
 some from Heliopolis, Egypt, others from Ephe- 
 sus. The dome is 180 feet high and more than 
 100 feet in diameter. Sancta Sophia must be 
 seen to be properly appreciated. 
 
 This citv is noted for its dogs. I counted 17 
 in one pack. They are on every square. -.They 
 are owned by everyone, and yet have no 
 master. Dogs everywhere. They are protected 
 by law, and superstitiously held in reverence, but 
 
78 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 like the Turk, they appear to be in a miserable 
 condition. As a rule the streets of Constantino- 
 ple are paved with cobble stones, and are not 
 very clean. The bazaars are fine. The Turk is 
 an active solicitor of trade. 
 
 We visited the Museum of Antiquities and the 
 Tomb of Alexander the Great, which is one of 
 the finest works of marble in existence. We 
 were shown the reputed skull of the ambitious 
 conquerer, and many clay tablets and cylinders 
 which have shed much light on the obscurity of 
 antiquity. To-morrow we hope to visit the 
 Palace and Treasury of the Sultan. 
 
 March 13: I have been out on deck with an 
 agent of this steamship company, who is very 
 well informed. I had a fine view of the Palace 
 of the imprisoned brother of the Sultan. Accord- 
 ing to Turkish law, the brother of the Sultan 
 must be killed, but in this case, instead of killing 
 him, they built a palace in which to imprison 
 him. I call it a palace because it has a palatial 
 appearance. This great city grows on one the 
 longer he beholds it. The German Embassy and 
 Hospital are in full view of our ship. Our ves- 
 sel was too large to dock in the Bosphorus, and 
 we were obliged to land in steam tenders. The 
 weather is cool and much like that of many 
 places of America in the Middle States. 
 
 Last evening we had a lecture from a professor 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 79 
 
 of the Robert College. This college was founded 
 by Mr. Robert, of New York, in 1863, and is 
 supported by New York men. It has 300 stu- 
 dents, and is doing excellent work. The lecturer 
 said that the Americans were accused of being 
 responsible for the Armenian massacre. This 
 was true in the sense that America enlightened 
 the Armenians, and when enlightened, they 
 would not endure the tyranny to which they were 
 subject, and in their efforts to throw off the yoke, 
 were massacred. 
 
 This afternoon we visited the palace of the 
 Sultan. It was a magnificent building with walls 
 of alabaster, marble and crystal stairs, silver 
 tables, mirrors of immense size and perfect in 
 quality, elegant furniture and beautiful decora- 
 tions. The Throne Room alone cost one million 
 dollars. Soon we must leave the seat of Otto- 
 man power, and proceed to Athens, Rome, Na- 
 ples and other places. 
 
 March 14 : I was on deck this morning before 
 sunrise, and later old Sol arose and revealed the 
 city in its glory. Of the cities which I have 
 visited, Constantinople is far above them all for 
 beauty of situation. Last night we slept aboard 
 ship in the middle of the Bosphorus. Con- 
 stantinople is situated on a number of elevations, 
 each having a name, but all included in the city. 
 Very few visitors here go away with a feeling 
 
80 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 of disappointment. The government is said to 
 be rotten, the soldiers superstitions, and the 
 Sultan an effeminate coward, who scarcely looks 
 out of his palace without a military escort. The 
 whole Ottoman Empire is held together by the 
 jealousy of the other powers. 
 
 On leaving the city this morning we steamed 
 up the Bosphorus to the Black Sea, passing a 
 continuous line of cities and forts. The natural 
 scenery is unsurpassed. On the European side 
 is the Robert College. The students raised the 
 Stars and Stripes and came out on the campus 
 and the roof of the building to greet us. Our 
 ship gave a salute, and waved hundreds of Amer- 
 ican flags. Cheer after cheer went up from the 
 ship and was returned with equal spirit by the 
 students. After steaming a short distance into 
 the Black Sea, we then returned to Constantino- 
 ple and as we passed the American College 
 another salute was given. 
 
 Now we must bid adieu to Constantinople, the 
 seat of Ottoman power, under which government 
 we have been ever since we entered Palestine. 
 We must now leave the Turk, who, for all we 
 know, has treated us with as much respect as he 
 is capable. What protection he has given us we 
 do not fully know, as this is an absolute Mon- 
 archy. An American who has been granted 
 "life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness" does 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 81 
 
 not feel the safety here that he does in his own 
 country. Our gallant ship now leaves Constanti- 
 nople, passes into the Sea of Marmora, thence 
 through the famous Dardanelles, which connects 
 it with the Aegean Sea. 
 
82 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 "Athens, the eye of Greece, mother of arts 
 
 And eloquence, native to famous wits." — Milton. 
 
 March 15: The weather is dark and rainy 
 this morning. Last night we passed the site of 
 ancient Troy. Prof. Penny delivered an illus- 
 trated lecture on Athens. We are now in the 
 Aegean Sea and will stop at Piraeus, where we 
 shall take the train for Athens. 
 
 On Tuesday of this week, our manager asked 
 me to change my state room. This I did to his 
 pleasure, as well as my own, for I received a 
 better room amidships. It is an outside room and 
 I am well pleased. We have had a white squall, 
 during which the sea was lashed into foam. 
 
 To-day we have been passing through a great 
 number of islands, one of which is the Isle of 
 Patmos, to which John was banished. Instead 
 of pining away in banishment, he gave to the 
 world the wonderful Book of Revelations, which 
 is the consummation of the New Testament Scrip- 
 tures. What wonderful surroundings. One has 
 well said that to sail through Grecian waters is 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 83 
 
 to float through history. The city of Athens is 
 now in full view, and our pilot has come aboard. 
 
 We have remained here at anchor all after- 
 noon, as the wind is too high for our ship to 
 enter the harbor. If the wind does not abate, 
 we shall not land at all, and our disappointment 
 will be very great. Our Captain is very careful, 
 but we still have hope of landing. Here we are 
 in view of the Acropolis, and Mars' Hill, where 
 Paul delivered his wonderful discourse in setting 
 forth the doctrine of the Christian religion. I 
 think cruising is a good school in which to cul- 
 tivate the grace of patience, yet some of our party 
 seem very deficient in this virtue. We all hope 
 to land, but fear that we may not. Patrick Henry 
 once said "When our fears correspond with the 
 danger, the danger is past." 
 
 March 16 : This morning at an early hour our 
 ship raised the anchor and steamed into the har- 
 bor. At Piraeus we boarded the train for Athens, 
 which is five miles distant. W T e are now visiting 
 this celebrated city, and are much impressed with 
 the general appearance of cleanliness everywhere. 
 Our present impression is that the Greek is far 
 superior to the Turk. Good sanitary conditions 
 prevail everywhere; clean streets, and houses 
 which look like home. 
 
 After leaving the train, we secured a guide, 
 and are fortunate in having an educated Greek, 
 
84 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 who speaks English quite well. We first visited 
 the Theseum Temple, built 430 B. C, after which 
 the Temples of Jupiter and Minerva were viewed, 
 and then we ascended Mars' Hill. Standing on 
 the spot where the apostle Paul preached his great 
 sermon to the Athenians, I took my Bible, and 
 turning to the seventeenth chapter of Acts, read 
 the chapter aloud to the audience. Athens, the 
 great seat of learning, was the home of Socrates, 
 Demosthenes and many immortal sages of Greece, 
 All about us are splendid ruins of such great 
 magnitude that it would require many pages to 
 describe the tenth part. 
 
 This afternoon we visited Dr. Schliemann's 
 Museum of Antiquities and saw many statues 
 taken out by the excavators. Some were exceed- 
 ingly beautiful and convinced us that the Grecian 
 artist put his very soul into his work. Another 
 object of interest was the Tower of the Winds. 
 The ancient Greek worshipped the wind, and he 
 built this tower in the form of an octagon, so that 
 its angles were directed not only to the four 
 cardinal points, but also to the northeast, north- 
 west, southeast and southwest. 
 
 Next we were taken to the Palace and shown 
 the Throne of King George, which was very fine, 
 but not equal to that in the Palace of the Sultan. 
 We were all pleased and much impressed with the 
 educational institutions, which betoken the high 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 85 
 
 ideals of the Greek in the building of character. 
 Athens, the seat of learning in the days of Soc- 
 rates, is still holding up its banner for the highest 
 type of mental culture. Our guide is an excellent 
 linguist and well versed in ancient lore, thus 
 making our visit to the points of interest a great 
 pleasure. We shall sleep aboard ship to-night, 
 as she lies at anchor in the bay of Salamis. To- 
 day we saw a funeral procession in which the 
 corpse, that of a young woman, was borne 
 through the streets with face uncovered, on the 
 way to the Greek Church. After the funeral serv- 
 ices, the body was placed in a hearse and con- 
 veyed to the cemetery. 
 
 March 17 : Morning is bright and the air soft. 
 The country lying between Piraeus and Athens 
 is much like that of southern California and it 
 did our hearts good to see wheat and olive trees 
 growing in the same field. We have visited 
 Athens to-day and again returned to the ship, the 
 whistle of which was sounded, calling to us to 
 bid farewell to classic Greece. We can say fare- 
 well, but we shall never forget. 
 
 Everyone is astir aboard ship and the venders 
 of various kinds of trinkets and souvenirs are 
 rapidly packing their goods to go ashore. The 
 whistle sounds again, the anchor is lifted, and 
 our ship sails out of the Salamis Bay into the 
 Aegean Sea and points her prow toward Naples, 
 
86 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 as night settles down over the sea and darkness 
 upon the deep ; but not so in the brilliant salon 
 of the New England, where a fine stereopticon 
 lecture is given on Rome, Naples and Pompeii. 
 Our party retire, all expressing themselves de- 
 lighted with their visit to Athens. During the 
 night we pass numerous islands, but have not 
 heard of their historic importance. 
 
 March 18: The sea is choppy and very few- 
 guests are at the table. The bright cheerful look 
 has faded from the faces of the passengers, the 
 ladies, as usual, seeming to suffer most. 
 
 Religious services were held in the forward 
 salon this forenoon. To-day is wearing away and 
 no land in sight, but we have the promise of 
 being in Naples at six o'clock to-morrow morn- 
 ing. At 4 p. m. we listened to a good gospel 
 sermon delivered by a Presbyterian minister, Rev. 
 James Ross. His text was "I am crucified with 
 Christ, nevertheless I live ; yet not I, but Christ 
 liveth in me, and the life that I now live in the 
 flesh, I live by the faith of the Son of God, who 
 loved me and gave Himself for me." This dis- 
 course, delivered to us while far at sea, was up- 
 lifting and soul refreshing. The day has passed, 
 and we are entering the strait between Sicily and 
 Italy. Some of our party are making ready to 
 leave the ship at Rome. 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 87 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 NAPLES AND POMPEII. 
 
 My soul to-day 
 Is far away 
 
 Sailing the Vesuvian Bay; 
 My winged boat 
 
 A bird afloat 
 Swims round the purple peaks remote. 
 
 Round purple peaks 
 It sails and seeks 
 
 Blue inlets and their crystal creeks. 
 Where high rocks throw 
 
 Through deeps below 
 A duplicated golden glow. 
 
 Far vague and dim 
 The mountains swim 
 
 While on Vesuvius' misty brim 
 With outstretched hands 
 
 The gray smoke stands 
 O'erlooking the volcanic lands. 
 
 Here Ischia smiles 
 O'er liquid miles 
 
 And yonder bluest of the isles 
 Calm Capri waits 
 
 Her sapphire gates 
 Beguiling to her bright estates.— Read. 
 
88 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 March 19: Monday. Our ship was detained 
 in the Strait of Messina, and we are several hours 
 behind schedule time. The Italian sun and air 
 begin to send life through the ship's party, and all 
 are astir. We are passing the Isle of Capri, with 
 its wonderful Blue Grotto and Sorrento, the home 
 of Tasso. Some of our party will visit the Grotto, 
 but fears are entertained that the sea will run too 
 high for entrance. This forenoon our ship an- 
 chored in the beautiful Bay of Naples. On the 
 shore gardens are growing, trees are blooming, 
 and the air is soft as velvet. We were carried 
 ashore in steam tenders, and thence in carriages 
 to the station where we took the train for 
 Pompeii. 
 
 On arriving at the buried city we secured an 
 Italian guide who could speak English and visited 
 the Museum, where we saw many exhumed 
 bodies of the unfortunate people. These bodies, 
 nearly two thousand years old, were in an excel- 
 lent state of preservation. But more marvelous 
 to see are the disinterred houses, baths, temples, 
 amphitheatres, and stately dwellings. The fres- 
 coing on the walls showed its color as bright as 
 the day it was placed there by the hand of the 
 Italian artist. Some of the buildings showed 
 commodious apartments, decorated with beauti- 
 ful mosaics. The streets showed the very marks 
 worn in the pavement by chariot wheels. What 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 89 
 
 a vast amount of work was required to remove 
 the ashes and lava from this buried city, but the 
 treasures unearthed have richly repaid the arche- 
 ologist for his labor. Whatever else may be 
 false or counterfeit, these things before us are 
 real and present to view the ruins of a city, which 
 in the midst of affluence and a high state of cul- 
 ture, was in one short day sent to its grave for a 
 slumber of two thousand years. While walking 
 those silent streets and standing amid the ruined 
 walls of those once beautiful homes, I thought of 
 Glaucus, Sallust, lone, and Nydia, the blind 
 flower girl spoken of in Lord Lytton's book, "The 
 Last Days of Pompeii." 
 
 THE ROMAN SENTINEL. 
 
 * "Darkly o'er a Roman city, 
 
 Monstrous clouds were rolling by, 
 Lightnings flashed and deep toned thunders 
 
 Loudly rumbled through the sky; 
 While the earth was wildly rocking, 
 
 As a ship upon the sea 
 Falls and rises on the billows, 
 
 When the storm winds are set free. 
 
 S ?t u : c t. ere insert a poem which was recited in 
 High School 27 years ago. I do not know the author, 
 and possess the poem only in memory. While visit- 
 ing Pompeii in August, 1891, I was shown the city's 
 gate so faithfully kept by the hero of this poem, whose 
 body was found 'in an angle in the wall."— E. A. B 
 
90 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 "Rivers of consuming fire 
 
 Rolled adown the mountain side, 
 Over vineyards bright and lovely, 
 
 Over meadows far and wide ; 
 While the smoke and falling ashes, 
 
 Filled the black and sultry air, 
 Weirdly lighted by the lightning, 
 
 And the mountain's lurid glare. 
 
 "At the city's gate in armor 
 
 Stood a Roman sentinel, 
 Past him ran the rushing rabble, 
 
 'Round him dust and ashes fell ; 
 Proud and firm with mail clad fingers 
 
 Clasped about his gleaming spear, 
 Heeding nothing but his duty, 
 
 Feeling neither hope nor fear. 
 
 "Onward rushed the frighted people 
 
 Fleeing from the fiery tide, 
 Darker grew the air around him, 
 
 Still he stood with sullen pride, 
 Boldly gazing, fiercely frowning, 
 
 At the fast approaching flame, 
 Till at last a look of anguish 
 
 O'er his swarthy features came. 
 
 "Far away his thoughts were drifting 
 
 To the distant hills of Rome, 
 Where, beside the yellow Tiber, 
 
 He had left his humble home. 
 And he seemed to hear a matron 
 
 Bidding him no longer stay, 
 Mingled with his children's voices 
 
 Calling him to come away. 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 91 
 
 "Sweet the vision, sad, but fleeting, 
 
 To himself he firmly said, 
 Never has a Roman warrior 
 
 From his post of duty fled. 
 Though the mouth of hell engulf me, 
 
 I will boldly meet my fate, 
 I will show the Roman legions 
 
 How to keep the city's gate. 
 
 "Then the black cloud creeping lower 
 
 Blotted out the lurid light, 
 Like a deluge from the ocean 
 
 Sweeping o'er the land at night, 
 And a flood of falling ashes 
 
 Coming from the midnight skies, 
 Buried deep that fated city 
 
 From the sight of human eyes. 
 
 "In the endless march of ages 
 
 Centuries crept slowly past, 
 Islands rose amid the ocean, 
 
 Mountains disappeared at last, 
 Rippling rivers changed their courses, 
 
 Empires crumbled to decay, 
 Glorious cities went to ruin, 
 
 Mighty nations passed away. 
 
 "Once again a human footstep, 
 
 In that ancient city falls, 
 And in melancholy beauty, 
 
 Gleams the warm light on its walls. 
 Graven on enduring marble, 
 
 Pictured in the crumbling clay, 
 Is the story of the glory 
 
 Of a power passed away. 
 
92 A JOUENEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 "Standing in his time worn armor 
 
 Still in death, erect and tall, 
 There they found the Roman soldier 
 
 In an angle in the wall. 
 Still his bony hand was firmly 
 
 Clasped about his rusted spear, 
 Still he told to after ages, 
 
 That a Roman knew no fear. 
 
 "Hero of that silent city 
 
 By your bold and tragic fate, 
 You have shown the Roman legions 
 
 How to keep a city's gate. 
 With a soul by death undaunted 
 
 When a storm of fire swept past, 
 By no human terror haunted, 
 
 You were faithful to the last." 
 
 Musing on the mutability of all earthly things, 
 I turned thoughtfully away from these silent 
 streets to other scenes. 
 
 Those who climbed to the summit of Mt. Ve- 
 suvius, say they did not see much, and complained 
 of a hard trip. From our present position we 
 can see a cloud of smoke arising from the vol- 
 cano, and during the night, flashes of fire lit up 
 the sky. Vesuvius is no longer a thing of wonder 
 here. If, however, the volcano should become 
 active, as in the days when Pompeii was blotted 
 out, the people in the surrounding country would 
 again become terror stricken. 
 
 Taking the train, I was borne along the shores 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 93 
 
 of the bay to the city of Naples, where carriages 
 were waiting. In driving about the city, we 
 marvelled at its beauty. The streets were 
 thronged with well-dressed people, who seemed 
 to be holding a high holiday. This forenoon I 
 received mail from America which thrilled me 
 with delight. How sweet, in a foreign land, to 
 hear from those we love. To-morrow we shall 
 have another drive over the city before proceed- 
 ing to Rome. 
 
 March 20 : The bright morning, soft air, and 
 beautiful Italian skies, inspire one for the day. 
 We slept sweetly on the ship anchored in the Bay 
 of Naples. All is astir on board, as many passen- 
 gers leave the ship here, some remaining in 
 Naples, and others proceeding to Rome. 
 
 12 m.: I have just returned from a drive ^ 
 through the city of Naples. We visited the 
 Aquarium and saw many species of strange fish, 
 many of which were of brilliant color and to me 
 of unknown order. Among those which inter- 
 ested us was the Nautilus, concerning which 
 Oliver Wendell Holmes wrote his noted poem. 
 This Aquarium is connected with a college, and 
 forms a part of the Zoological Department, for 
 which it affords specimens for study. We also 
 visited the Museum, which contains many master- 
 pieces of sculpture and painting, and a vast col- 
 lection of relics of antiquity. 
 
94 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 At 3 p. m. we left Naples for Rome, 118 miles 
 distant. While passing through the farming dis- 
 tricts we were impressed by the beauty of the 
 Italian valleys, every foot of which appeared to 
 be under cultivation. We saw only one plow 
 during this entire trip, as the soil, which appeared 
 to be rich, is always turned over with a spade 
 instead of a plow. In many fields we saw com- 
 panies of spaders, working abreast, turning over 
 the soil; sometimes a man and his wife; and 
 again a young man and his best girl were seen 
 side by side, spading. The Italians use cattle for 
 work, and we saw many, which were very large, 
 beautiful and white, drawing loads. Many of the 
 trees which had evidently been planted, were 
 trimmed closely at the top, and at the foot of each 
 tree, a grape vine had been planted and trained 
 to run up the tree which was its support. The 
 vines were trained from tree to tree, thus giving 
 a very pleasing appearance. At 9 p. M. we 
 reached Rome, the Eternal City. 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 95 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 Yet this is Rome, that sate on her seven hills, 
 And from her throne of beauty ruled the world. 
 
 — Mitford. 
 
 March 21 : This forenoon we had a drive over 
 the old Appian Way, and while passing over its 
 well worn stones, I thought of Saint Paul when 
 he took courage, at seeing the three taverns. This 
 paved highway is still in a good state of preserva- 
 tion. Next we visited the Catacombs, those un- 
 derground sepulchres of the dead, which extend 
 three stories beneath the surface. We were con- 
 ducted through its dark passageways by an intel- 
 ligent monk, to whom explaining things to us 
 seemed to be a real pleasure. Here we saw many 
 paintings, wrought in the second and third cen- 
 turies, which, we were told, are of much value in 
 settling many points of controversy. There are 
 twelve miles of Catacombs open, and seventeen 
 miles yet to open. We next visited the Church 
 of San Giovanni in Laterano, which one must 
 see to appreciate. It is certainly a marvel of 
 aesthetic splendor. In a grotto underneath, is a 
 
96 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 masterpiece in marble representing Christ's de- 
 scent from the cross. A light is kept burning 
 near this statue. 
 
 Our drive along the Appian Way brought us 
 out into the country which environs the city. The 
 soil appears productive and well cultivated. The 
 old Roman Aqueduct traverses this part of the 
 Campagna and is a very impressive relic of the 
 past. On all sides of us are seen ruins of the 
 primitive glory of Rome. This afternoon we vis- 
 ited shops, banks and stores, and also took a walk 
 across the Tiber, passing over a massive stone 
 bridge and returning over a modern steel struc- 
 ture. The Tiber is a muddy river ; at least it was 
 very muddy when I saw it, but this may have 
 been caused by recent rains. 
 
 A gentleman from Canada, and I, took a long 
 walk through the most important streets, among 
 which is the famous street, Corso, and we also 
 visited the Fountain of the Tritons, which pours 
 forth copious streams of pure water. 
 
 March 2.2\ Thursday. I rested well during 
 the night and am ready for the day's trip. This 
 forenoon we visited St. Peter's Cathedral, which 
 I shall not attempt to describe as I do not feel 
 equal to the task. We also visited the Vatican 
 and saw paintings by Raphael and Michael 
 Angelo. Our guide told us that these paintings 
 are the finest in the world. No words from my 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 97 
 
 pen can portray the life-like scenes of the Vatican 
 Palace as presented on canvas. Some of the 
 paintings which impressed me most, were The 
 Transfiguration of Christ, The Martyred Jerome, 
 Working of Miracles, The Life of Jesus, showing 
 scenes from the various periods of his life, and 
 The Bathes of Constantine. 
 
 This afternoon I am sitting on a step at the 
 Roman Forum. Here is the Basilica of Constan- 
 tine, of which only three great arches remain. 
 The ruins of the Forum are too vast for me to 
 record in detail. On every side are remains of 
 ancient mosaic floors, broken columns, and fallen 
 arches. Here the halls echoed to the tread of the 
 Caesars ! 
 
 How many momentous events have occurred 
 in the old Forum Romanum, which was the 
 throbbing heart of the Eternal City of the Roman 
 Empire. Here Catiline was made to feel the 
 scorching power of the oratory of the mighty 
 Cicero. Near the Forum are the ruins of the 
 palaces of the Caesars, the Triumphal Arch of 
 Titus, the Golden House of Nero, and the Coli- 
 seum, all of which in their fallen condition, are 
 but a faint shadow of their former greatness. As 
 I stand near the Coliseum, I remember that some 
 of the greatest or earth's tragedys occurred here, 
 where gladiators fought in the arena, and Chris- 
 tians were thrown to wild beasts. Here Sparta- 
 
98 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 cus, we are told, for "twelve long years met 
 upon the arena every shape of man or beast the 
 broad Empire of Rome could furnish, and never 
 lowered his arm." 
 
 My visit to the Coliseum shall never be forgot- 
 ten. As I stood amidst the awesome ruins of 
 the amphitheatre I was almost overcome with 
 wonder at its magnitude, and I remembered that 
 it was largely built by captive Jews, who groaned 
 under the yoke of Rome." No one can form a 
 proper conception of the greatness of Rome with- 
 out visiting it, and sitting down amidst its 
 temples, monuments, columns, amphitheatres, 
 statues, sepulchres, palaces, baths, arches, and 
 other remains of its former greatness. 
 
 Modern Rome is a beautiful city with an excel- 
 lent municipal government. The sanitary condi- 
 tions are good and this is very noticeable to the 
 tourists after visiting Cairo, Jerusalem and Con- 
 stantinople. Our party are now gathering to hear 
 the lecture. 
 
 We have taken a drive on Corso, the finest 
 street of the city, and afterwards visited the 
 Gardens on Pincian Hill, from whose lofty ele- 
 vation we beheld the whole city, the Campagna 
 beyond, and farther away the sea as it melts into 
 the dim line of the horizon. From this hill, the 
 greatness of St. Peter's Cathedral is revealed. To 
 my mind, it is the greatest of all churches of its 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. \)\) 
 
 kind. From this hill, we have a fine view of the 
 Arch of Titus, which was erected to commemo- 
 rate the conquest of Jerusalem. We saw a clock 
 in the Pincian Gardens running by water power. 
 A number of years ago this beautiful hill was a 
 deserted waste, where the ghost of Nero was be- 
 lieved to have wandered in the Middle Ages. 
 
 Our lecturer told us that Vesta was the God- 
 dess of Fire. She was a virgin divinity, and 
 maidens called Vestal Virgins kept the fire burn- 
 ing. These virgins were ten years learning, ten 
 years practicing, and ten years teaching. At the 
 age of thirty they were permitted to go, mingle 
 with society, and marry if they chose. They 
 were commanded to lead a chaste, virtuous life, 
 and if any violated these commands, they were 
 buried alive. We were told that a few sad exam- 
 ples are recorded. 
 
 March 23: Friday. This is our last day in 
 Rome. It rained during the night, but the 
 weather is clearing. I made a few purchases to- 
 day, and found the stores finer than I anticipated. 
 Our hotel accommodations have been the best that 
 we have had since leaving New York. The Ital- 
 ian language is the mother tongue here, but the 
 French language is also used considerably. I 
 have greatly enjoyed my stay in Rome, but must 
 soon go away, no doubt forever. I have been 
 stopping at the National Hotel. 
 
 LOFC, 
 
100 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 March 24 : This is the day we had planned to 
 start for Naples, to take the ship for Nice, Monte 
 Carlo, and the Riviera, and accordingly, arrange- 
 ments had been made for an early breakfast. The 
 steward came to our room and informed us of a 
 telegram received from Naples, which states that 
 our party cannot leave Rome to-day. Our curios- 
 ity is greatly aroused. At breakfast the bulletin- 
 board stated that we would not go to Naples, but 
 that our baggage was on the way to Rome. Our 
 fears are thoroughly aroused and we hear rumors 
 of sickness aboard the ship. What will be the 
 result of all this? What has become of my bag- 
 gage, which is somewhat scattered, part of my 
 clothing being in the laundry ? Will they put all 
 the baggage together and fumigate it, and shall I 
 lose a part or all of my belongings? I must be 
 patient and await further developments. 
 
 10 a. m. I have just returned from Hotel 
 Minerva, where I have heard that Mrs. Thomp- 
 son, wife of Captain Thompson, has died of Sy- 
 rian fever aboard the ship at Naples. Three of 
 our party have died since the cruise began. We 
 are still in suspense concerning our future. Our 
 manager's arrival from Naples may dispel our 
 fears and set all things right. May the same 
 Hand that has led us through our long sea voy- 
 age still continue to lead us until we return to 
 our homes. 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 101 
 
 We have just learned that our baggage will be 
 sent from Naples to our respective hotels. Here 
 is another problem, as Dr. Humphrey and I oc- 
 cupied the same stateroom, and our things were 
 not all packed. We are quartered at different 
 hotels in Rome, but now we must find each other 
 and then find and separate our baggage. We are 
 also informed that we are now on our own ex- 
 pense. This does not please us, and we hope that 
 it will not continue long. We are still waiting to 
 hear something further, but are kept in suspense. 
 
 At last we have received our sentence, which 
 has come to us with a crash: Smallpox on the 
 ship. Our baggage was thrown together and sent 
 to Rome after us. We must get out of the city 
 as soon as possible at our own expense. I have 
 seldom seen such excitement. Some of the ladies 
 cried, and all our hearts are made sad, but we are 
 told to keep quiet or we shall be quarantined. We 
 were informed that the ship would leave Naples, 
 but that none of us must think of going aboard. 
 Imagine our feelings, so far from home, and now 
 on our own responsibility and any moment liable 
 to be detained in quarantine. 
 
 March 25 : Three carloads of baggage have 
 arrived from Naples. Every stateroom was 
 cleared, and our baggage was very much mixed, 
 but I think each one finally received his own, as 
 each one's baggage was marked by the number of 
 
102 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 his stateroom. What a time there was claiming 
 baggage. Three of the party and I, after secur- 
 ing our belongings, procured tickets and took the 
 first train for Florence. Our party was like a 
 frightened flock of quails, darting out from under 
 a brush heap and scattering everywhere. The 
 intention is to again meet the ship at Liverpool. 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 103 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 FROM ROME TO LONDON. 
 
 Singing through the forests 
 Rattling over ridges 
 
 Shooting under arches 
 Rumbling over bridges, 
 
 Whizzing through the mountain, 
 Buzzing o'er the vale, 
 
 Bless me! this is pleasant, 
 Riding on the rail. — Saxe. 
 
 March 26: I am quartered in an excellent 
 hotel in Florence, where I arrived last evening. 
 On our way here we passed many beautiful villas 
 in the valley of the Tiber, and had fine views of 
 the vine clad hills of Italy. This district is de- 
 voted to grape culture, and the honey produced 
 here is superior to any I have ever eaten. The 
 employees at our hotel excel in good manners, and 
 politeness appears to be the normal condition 
 everywhere. This afternoon I must take a hasty 
 view of the city and then start for Paris. I find 
 it hard work to travel so rapidly. The population 
 of Florence is 180,000. I must seek for a Cook's 
 Office and secure my ticket for Paris, and also 
 exchange my money into English or French cur- 
 rency. This constant change of currency in trav- 
 
104 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 eling is very inconvenient, and often occasions 
 considerable loss to the tourist, since there are 
 those who take advantage of him. 
 
 We took the train this afternoon enroute for 
 Paris, and have passed through some beautiful 
 scenery. Some of the mountain sides wer ter- 
 raced. The train is now stopping in Bologna. 
 
 March 27 : We traveled all night and at dawn 
 were crossing the Alps into the Republic of 
 Switzerland, and while on top of the mountains 
 we encountered a snow storm. The morning is 
 cold. We have had an interesting time in passing 
 from one country to another, changing cars, and 
 having our baggage inspected by the Custom 
 House officials. 
 
 The part of France through which we are now 
 passing does not possess as much rich farming 
 land as I had expected, and therefore the people 
 live mostly in villages. We passed through many 
 fine villages and cities after leaving Switzerland 
 and saw considerable timber land. The people 
 here use a good deal of willow, and also cultivate 
 it. In some places we saw women working in the 
 fields. After we entered France, our train ran 
 very fast. 
 
 March 28: Wednesday. We arrived safe in 
 Paris last evening, and stopped at a hotel con- 
 venient to the station. After satisfying the inner 
 man, and walking about a little, we retired and 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 105 
 
 slept well under feathers, which covering is quite 
 common in this country. This morning the 
 weather is cold, and we feel unprepared for low 
 temperatures. 
 
 This trip across the continent of Europe is not 
 for the purpose of sight-seeing, but for the pur- 
 pose of meeting our ship at Liverpool. We had 
 finished our entire cruise as planned, with the ex- 
 ception of one day's sight-seeing at Nice, Monte 
 Carlo and the Riviera. We feel that after all in 
 exchanging sight-seeing at these places for a 
 trans-continental trip, and a glance at London 
 and Paris, we have not been the loser. 
 
 The lectures provided for us on our cruise 
 were very instructive and helpful, and reflected 
 great credit on the eminent gentlemen who de- 
 livered them. The subjects and speakers were 
 as follows: 
 
 "Madeira and Algiers," by Rev. Cortland 
 Myers, D.D., of Brooklyn, N. Y. 
 
 "Gibraltar and Malta," by Rev. A. Z. Conrad, 
 D.D., of Worcester, Mass. 
 
 "Jerusalem and the Land of Promise," by 
 Rev. W. H. Penhallegon, D.D., of Decatur, 111. 
 
 "Naples and Pompeii," by Rev. A. Z. Conrad, 
 D.D., of Worcester, Mass. 
 
 "Constantinople and its Conquest by the 
 Turks," by Prof. Van Millingen, of Robert Col- 
 lege, Constantinople^ Turkey. 
 
106 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 "Rome and St. Peter's," by Prof. L. Reynaud, 
 of Rome Italy. 
 
 "The Forum," by Prof. L. Reynaud, of Rome, 
 Italy. 
 
 The following five lectures were given by Prof. 
 Geo. B. Penney, of the University of Kansas, 
 Lawrence, Kansas: 
 
 "Memphis and the Old Empire, or Lower 
 Egypt," 
 
 "The Monuments of Thebes and the New 
 Empire, or Upper Egypt," 
 
 "Round About Constantinople, Smyrna, and 
 Ephesus," 
 
 "The Old and New Athens," 
 
 "The Antiquities of Rome." 
 
 We have seen Paris as if by lightning, and are 
 now on our way to London. The country in this 
 part of France is beautiful and adapted to agricul- 
 ture. We are soon to cross the English Chan- 
 nel. 
 
 March 29: We found a rough channel to 
 cross, but I rested well. This morning we are 
 on English soil and among English speaking peo- 
 ple. We have been so long among peoples of 
 other languages that England seems very home- 
 like. We enjoyed our short stay in France, but 
 I think we shall enjoy England better. 
 
 We are now on the train speeding toward Lon- 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 107 
 
 don, and are very thankful that we are not ill or 
 quarantined in Rome. At 8 a. m. we are at 
 New Croyden, England. The cold weather this 
 morning affects us considerably, having become 
 somewhat accustomed to the tropics. From our 
 car window England appears to be well kept and 
 the towns and villages numerous. 
 
 Later : We have arrived in London, and after 
 partaking of a good breakfast, have been enjoying 
 a few of the sights of this great city. First we 
 visited the Parliament buildings, then Westmin- 
 ster Abbey, and Nelson's Monument, after which 
 we strolled through some of the principal streets. 
 
 5 p. m. : We are now in Liverpool, a distance 
 of 200 miles from London. The day has been 
 fine and our ride to this city was most delightful. 
 We passed one of the homes of one of the Roths- 
 childs and saw many of his race horses grazing 
 in the fields. The country is well farmed, has 
 many flocks of sheep, and was a delight to the eye. 
 Our train ran very fast, on as good a roadbed as 
 I ever passed over. The cars are little coaches 
 with no conductor or brakeman passing through. 
 Four of us occupied one of the coaches. 
 
108 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 HOMEWARD BOUND. 
 
 Home, kindred, friends and country — these 
 Are the ties from which we never part ; 
 
 From clime to clime, o'er land and seas 
 We bear them in our heart. — Montgomery. 
 
 We are stopping at the Nelson Hotel, and have 
 met several Americans from New York. This is 
 the terminus of our long land trip, and to reach 
 it we have traveled 1400 miles from Rome. Our 
 baggage, or luggage, as the English say, has been 
 a great care. It is a gOod thing to have, but incon- 
 venient while traveling here, and I am glad that I 
 had no steamer trunk to look after. I lost my 
 mackintosh by leaing it on the train either in Italy 
 or .Switzerland, and discovered the loss to late to 
 recover the missing garment. 
 
 As I have looked over England to-day, I have 
 remembered many things which our friend, Mrs. 
 Anne Kendall, used to relate to us concerning the 
 mother country. 
 
 March 30: Friday. I remained in Liverpool 
 last night with Mr. Beltz, one of our party with 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 109 
 
 whom I have traveled from Rome. The morning 
 is quite cold but I must go out and seek some in- 
 formation in regard to our steamship, we are not 
 yet free from suspense and I trust that the de- 
 velopments of this day will bring permanent 
 relief. Happily for us, our sight-seeing was 
 almost at an end before the trouble came. If it 
 had occurred at Cairo our trip would have been 
 a failure. Personally, I have had a very profita- 
 ble journey although at times some anxiety, as 
 we know not what an hour may bring forth. 
 
 4 o'clock p. m. : We are standing on the dock 
 and our dear old New England is before us at 
 anchor in the middle of the Mersey River. Some 
 of the bystanders say that she has smallpox 
 aboard and is quarantined ; others say that the 
 tide is out and that she cannot dock until high 
 tide. We have been somewhat amused in asking 
 people questions in regard to her as they stand 
 gazing from the dock. One man said that her 
 name is the Canada. We noticed two ragged 
 looking boys looking on and we approached them 
 and asked them the name of the ship. One boy 
 replied "The New England, sir. She has been 
 off on a cruise to the Mediterranean with a lot 
 of millionaires." We asked how many million- 
 aires there were in the party. He replied, "O, 
 there was a lot of them." We did not tell the 
 boy that we were of the number. 
 
110 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 March 31 : Saturday. I am feeling well this 
 morning. We shall start for Portland, Maine, 
 on the steamship Cambroman, which leaves from 
 Princess Dock at 3:30 p. m. to-day. After so 
 long a journey the thought of turning our faces 
 homeward is a cheering one. We have enjoyed 
 looking about the docks and shipping of Liver- 
 pool, which are immense. 
 
 Later : We left Liverpool aboard the Cambro- 
 man on time. We parted from a Mr. Dingwall, 
 a dear, good man who has been with us on the 
 long journey, and as he waived us good-bye he 
 appeared to be much affected by the separation. 
 This is a staunch ship with a good name and be- 
 longs to the Dominion Line. She is pronounced 
 seaworthy, but I apprehend that she will roll con- 
 siderably during the homeward voyage. 
 
 April 1 : Far out at sea again. This ship, un- 
 like the New England, rolls and pitches much to 
 our discomfort, but we hope to reach home bye 
 and bye. How very much isolated one feels 
 when at sea, and how fully he appreciates the 
 saying, "Out at sea." There is a clergyman with 
 me named Beltz, from whom I shall part at 
 Portland. 
 
 April 2 : Monday. The sun shines brightly 
 but the air is cold. We are farther out in the 
 sea to-day and the ship is still rocking. I in- 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. Ill 
 
 tended to write to-day but the ship's motion is 
 not favorable to writing. 
 
 We have aboard 254 boys from seven to twenty 
 years of age, who have come from Dr. Barnar- 
 do's Home, and are on their way to Toronto, 
 Canada, where they will be received into a Home 
 and from there distributed to people who desire 
 to take them. Those taking a boy to rear will 
 be paid for their trouble. Boys from sixteen to 
 twenty will go to Dr. Barnardo's farm of 10,000 
 acres, where they will learn farm work. I am 
 informed that the doctor is a gentleman of Irish 
 descent who has been engaged in this work for 
 thirty-three years. Many of the little boys are 
 now out on deck, and some look as though they 
 needed a mother's attention, but the poor children 
 are all orphans. Many of the youths have a 
 bright and intelligent appearance. 
 
 Mr. Geo. G. Mitchell, who is Superintendent 
 for Dr. Barnardo, told me the following touching 
 story: "A woman was found on the Thames 
 embankment in London, in an unconscious con- 
 dition. Two children were clinging to her. At 
 first it was thought she was intoxicated, so she 
 was taken to the Police Station. When restored 
 to consciousness it was discovered that she was 
 dying of starvation. She was taken to a hospital 
 where she died. The boy and girl were taken to 
 Dr. Barnardo's Home, where they were brought 
 
112 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 up to respectable manhood and womanhood. The 
 boy became a physician, and the girl is now the 
 wife of a Presbyterian minister." This is only 
 one story among hundreds, illustrating the work 
 which this humane institution is doing. 
 
 It is now raining and our ship rolls and pitches 
 considerably. There are some indications of an 
 approaching storm. The captain told me that we 
 should be 10 days at sea. The time now begins 
 to seem long. 
 
 April 3 : Tuesday. I retired early and rested 
 well. To-day the sun shines, the sea runs high 
 and the ship rolls, but we are rolling homeward. 
 There is not much news on shipboard. The 
 bugle is calling for breakfast. Later : It is even- 
 ing. A storm has been raging all day and the 
 sea breaks over the deck while the wind blows 
 fiercely. I certainly have seen a storm at sea, 
 but while it is still on I shall retire, knowing that 
 my Father holds it in his hand. 
 
 April 4. Wednesday morning: The wind is 
 blowing a hurricane and the sea runs very high. 
 Our ship with her powerful engines is still plow- 
 ing her way on through the crested waves of the 
 stormy Atlantic. I have often desired to expe- 
 rience a storm at sea, and now I have had all 
 that anyone could wish for. The sailors are ad- 
 justing the ropes on the lifeboats, which makes 
 one think that they are on the alert for danger. 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 113 
 
 Last night at nine o'clock the engines stopped. 
 To have such a thing occur in mid-ocean while 
 a storm was on, produced a strange sensation. 
 We soon ascertained that it was because some 
 of the machinery had become heated. The pas- 
 sengers are much affected by the storm. 
 
 This evening we shall be half way between 
 Liverpool and Portland. My people are not ad- 
 vised as to my whereabouts, but I trust the sea 
 will calm and all things end well. The grand old 
 New England is lying at Liverpool, but I shall 
 probably reach home before she starts for Boston. 
 
 James H. Moore is captain of the steamship 
 Cambroman. The crew numbers 188, there are 
 three engines,, the length of the vessel is 430 feet, 
 beam 46 feet, five decks, speed 13^2 knots. She 
 has made 75 voyages. 
 
 April 5 : I rested tolerably well but awoke 
 realizing the ship was rolling at a fearful rate, 
 with the great waves breaking over her decks 
 and dashing with tremendous force against the 
 cabin windows. O, this restless sea — these os- 
 cillating waves. 
 
 "Type of the Infinite ! I look away 
 Over thy billows, and I cannot stay 
 
 My thought upon a resting place, or make 
 A shore beyond my vision, where they break; 
 
 But on my spirit stretches, till it's pain 
 To think; then rests, and then puts forth again." 
 
114 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 I can scarcely write these lines because of the 
 ship's motion. There were more passengers at 
 the meal this morning than usual, but I fear this 
 rough sea will cause a return of their former 
 seasickness. The American tourist can endure 
 a certain amount of seasickness with equanimity 
 because every revolution of the propeller drives 
 the ship toward home. We regret that just now 
 the propeller is too much of the time out of water, 
 beating the air. Our ship has made 244 knots 
 to-day. A Scotch passenger, in religious talk, 
 said that the sword of God's justice was not 
 broken on the knee of mercy, but only sheathed 
 in the scabbard of the atonement. 
 
 P. M. : The sea is becoming more quiet, the 
 air warmer, and it is pleasant on deck. The 
 darkness of night is descending upon us. After 
 a pleasant interview with Superintendent 
 Mitchell, I have retired to my stateroom. 
 
 April 6: The sea is delightfully calm this 
 morning. I discover a ship far to the south- 
 east. She is a sailing vessel and evidently has 
 experienced rough weather, as one mast is gone 
 and the sails are badly shattered. Whence she 
 comes and whither bound, none of us know. 
 
 How majestic is the ocean to-day. The pas- 
 sengers are on deck in a merry mood and even 
 the stern old captain is playing at shuffle-board. 
 Many young ladies who have been kept in their 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 115 
 
 state rooms during the storm now appear on deck 
 in bright colors. O, how the warm sun and 
 breeze exhilarates. The sea is smooth, and the 
 Cambroman is making good time. It cannot sail 
 too fast for the travel-worn tourists. 
 
 I meet a good many English passengers aboard 
 who are anxious to have me tell them of my 
 trip to the Orient. My experience on this jour- 
 ney is worth a great deal to me. Evening is 
 approaching. Soon we shall retire for another 
 night at sea. I wonder how all things are at 
 home in America. To-day the log registered 
 299 knots, which is better than yesterday. I have 
 been reading Mark Twain's "innocents Abroad," 
 or "The New Pilgrim's Progress." What a 
 humorous way he has of putting things. 
 
 April 7 : We are in a heavy fog with the ship 
 rolling and pitching. This is the eighth day out 
 at sea and I feel like being ashore again. This 
 morning before sunrise, when daylight began to 
 chase the shadow from off the deep, I was awak- 
 ened by the sound of the ship's whistle. Sup- 
 posing another vessel to be passing, I arose to see 
 the stranger, and opening my state room window 
 and thrusting out my head, I found myself in a 
 fog bank thicker than you can imagine. Then I 
 knew the sound which I heard was only the fog 
 horn. I returned to bed thankful that I had a 
 bed, and the old ship continued to speed along. 
 
116 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 At 5 :oo p. m. to-day, I was called upon to 
 perform the funeral services of a child. Although 
 I have conducted the same services many times 
 on land, out at sea there was something unusually 
 solemn in the service. There were a goodly num- 
 ber on deck to attend the services, and the grief 
 of the poor mother was very great. At the 
 proper time the ship slowed down, and, as the 
 words of the service were pronounced, "We now 
 commit the body to the deep," two young men 
 who had the little form in charge tipped the board 
 and the little one's body dropped into the sea, 
 there to remain until "the sea shall give up her 
 dead" in the glorious resurrection morn. 
 
 April 8: This is Sunday morning, and before 
 another Sunday I hope to be at my home. The 
 day is bright but the ship rolls terribly. I held 
 religious services in the salon, preaching from 
 John 14:9. We had a precious hour out on the 
 great ocean. How sweet it is thus to honor God 
 in His service. We are now on the upper deck. 
 The sun is warm but the wind cold. Sunday 
 evening : The captain of the ship has come to me 
 and asked if I would hold divine service. 
 
 April 9. Monday morning : The day is bright 
 and sea smooth. We shall be in Halifax at 9 :oo 
 p. m. this evening. From our upper deck we 
 see three ships, two of which are fishing smacks, 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 117 
 
 and the third a steamer bound for some port un- 
 known to us. 
 
 Passengers who have been shut off from land 
 for many days find a ship at sea an object of 
 great interest. We have not seen land since 
 March 31, but have faced some rough seas which 
 will make our landing a source of greater delight. 
 We sighted land this afternoon. 
 
 The land was a cheering sight to us even if 
 it was the rugged and formidable shores on which 
 Halifax is situated. We arrived at Halifax at 
 9:00 p. m. Nearly all the passengers disem- 
 barked, leaving the ship quite lonely. 
 
 April 10 : Tuesday. There was so much con- 
 fusion during the night that I did not sleep well. 
 This morning I find myself the only remaining 
 tourist aboard. I have become anxious to reach 
 home. The interesting part of our famous trip 
 has ended and now home is the best place after 
 
 all. 
 
 I have just had a very pleasant interview with 
 the captain and Dr. Smylie, the ship's surgeon. 
 These gentlemen are very courteous and our in- 
 terview contributed greatly to my enjoyment. 
 The chief steward, Frank James, was very kind 
 to me during the return voyage. The name of 
 my table steward is James Martin, and my bed- 
 room steward is Hugh Roberts. Both are fine 
 fellows and were very companionable during 
 
118 A JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND 
 
 the voyage of eleven days across the stormy At- 
 lantic. 
 
 April ii: I awoke this morning in the beauti- 
 ful harbor of Portland, Me. The magic touch 
 of one's native land stirs every drop of patriotic 
 blood in the veins of a true American. 
 
 "Breathes there a man with soul so dead, 
 Who never to himself hath said, 
 
 This is my own, my native land? 
 Whose heart hath ne'er within him burned. 
 As home his footsteps he hath turned, 
 
 From wandering on a foreign strand." 
 
 How beautiful the flag appears on the shore 
 after the long voyage. Soon I shall be off for 
 Boston, and then New York, where I shall meet 
 loved ones. 
 
 The day is bright, breakfast over, stewards all 
 tipped, and I am ready to go ashore. 9:00 a. m. : 
 I have left the ship Cambroman, ended my travel 
 on the sea, exchanged my express checks and 
 English gold for United States money, and am 
 now on the train enroute for Boston. Reaching 
 Boston on time, I took a surface car for the South 
 Station, where I arrived a few minutes before my 
 train was scheduled to leave, and I am now spin- 
 ning along toward Xew York City. 
 
 I arrived at the Grand Central Station in New 
 York on time, and in a few minutes was on the 
 
AND COUNTRIES MEDITERRANEAN. 119 
 
 train for Yonkers. My son had gone to the 
 city to meet me and I am sure that I passed him 
 on the way, which I regret very much. He did 
 so much to make it possible for me to take this 
 trip, and has contributed much to my enjoyment. 
 
 Here I am in the city of Yonkers, and my son, 
 Edward, insists on my staying at least two weeks. 
 
 I have enjoyed my stay at Yonkers very much, 
 visiting many places of interest in New York 
 City, and also attending the Ecumenical Confer- 
 ence of Missionaries. After this enjoyable visit 
 I returned home, arriving April 27, 1900. 
 
 How thankful I am for the kind care of God, 
 and my safe return. I pray that my life may be 
 better because of a larger experience, wider range 
 of vision, and trust that I may be more conse- 
 crated, and have more of the spirit of Him who 
 went about doing good. 
 
 "The earth is the Lord's, and the fullness 
 thereof; the world and they that dwell therein." 
 
W 98 
 

 ^ >" 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 :. '^** : 
 
 s W 
 
 
 * 4o «* 
 
 
 
 **'>, 
 
 
 - "W • 
 
 % "^ : 
 
 
 \^:) 
 
 •A 
 
 V^ppva 
 
 <►. 
 

 
 d°* 
 
 
 
 
 4* V 
 
 «T ** w ^ 
 
 
 /% V 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■ 9 '**pA* <>*'->>* V'^^V <• 
 
 ^rfifc./** «. V \^:.X ^..tfte** * v 
 
 
 - ^ :4ffif: «b>* 
 
 
 ,4 0, 
 
 WERT 
 
 BOOK8INDINC 
 
 Grantvtlte Pa 
 
 JUL* AUG 1989 
 
 * W 
 
 ^