-* v.;•:^■■^':Jy■*- ^^^»* •■-vVf.,.-»;/vv-s:'L-r:»;-, .,- ;, :; KJrt«i' nil"! ""'... i,rOv.'."..J'.- .:k.. ,, ,! •-,.- '.*«-' j?>" .,1..'' .: ••■•..rj:.:. ■ ■ , ,. ( r:\^'.,.. %j'i. ■.•1. "■'--■" -*■,;■■■.■•■ """■"■■'*■'! i'-'= \'' ■ *'■'■ ynfr,^/- , .•.■T.Tr,'., r- . ,,M.. •■ ■ , .■■',-n<'jr. VL . . :' '0' '■ .' ■<•!■ P » < ^ ^ ^ \ 5 • . . . I ; ' • > ... ... •^. .«. rK*. ,. ... . ,^ »._.'.,'. (•■ iTt J..:,' '. ,.,'.;'i:-,;,-: ■". •''•'.*''•< ; . .■ -rK^iVi^.'i-'.'i-'' -.••", >. ■!.•, : ■ ■, yfy^ •yrv:r*:f,_ ,: fry: .. , ';. ■ •■■vi»f>..-.:'i :■:•.;' ■: ;- 'Vr* ■'■',, .,:■ .. • .,,« ^. .,-■, ,^ .^- -fj« • ^.;.;- ':.•'■'.•>i.■:*f*-''■ LETTERS FROM EUROPE: NOTES OF A TOUR THROUGH ^nglanir, Jfraitte, aiii^ StoitjerlanJr, BY E> THOMSON, D. D., LL. D. WITH A PREFACE BY BISHOP MORRIS. EDITED BY REV. D. W. CLARK, D. D. Ciiuinnati: PUBLISHED BY L. SWORMSTEDT & A. POE, FOR THE METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH, AT THE WESTERN BOOK CONCERN, CORNER OF MAIN AND EIGHTH STREETS. R. P. THOMrsON, PRINTER. 1856. Y^ 6 ! Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1856, BY SWORMSTEDT & POE, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of Ohio. xtl^tt. IF the volume of Dr. Thomson's Educational Es- says be favorably received, it is no more than it justly merits. But this volume Avill be much more popular than the former, for the reason that letters of travel are more in demand for general readers than essays, however able and elegant. These let- ters, reported back to his friends by Dr. Thomson, while on a tour in Europe to procure a University library, will afford great attraction for American readers. The fact that they were originally pre- pared for a weekly paper, and not designed for a book, is decidedly in their favor, allowing the writer more variety of topics, as well as more freedom of remark and diction about men and things in general. All readers acquainted with the author will give full credence to every assertion of fact, while his peculiar tact in pen-portraiture can not fail to interest all classes of readers. This volume will afford a rich mental repast. Like all the productions of its au- thor, it will improve the head and heart of every 4 PREFACE. attentive reader, by imparting knowledge and a love of truth. Having read some of these letters as they first appeared, and knowing the capability of the writer, I take pleasure in commending the work to a reading and enlightened public. T. A. Morris. Cincinnati, March, 1856. Coiitnits, LETTER I. PAOE. Tbip to New York 9 LETTER II.* PuKCHASEs — The Steamship Baltic — A Funeral — A Picnic 16 LETTER III. Getting ready to sail — The Ship — Bill of Fare — Amusements — Sunday at Sea — Ship's Progress — Dangers — Last Day out 24 LETTER IV. The Landing — Shore Sights — A Colloquy 38 LETTER V. Liverpool — Railroads — Verdure — Cholera — Books 44 LETTER VI. The Church — The Dissenters — The State — The Nobility 49 LETTER VII. English Ladies — The Queen — The Royal Family 58 LETTER VIII. House of Commons — Newspapers — Post-Office — Education — London Wesley AN Book Concbrn 65 LETTER IX. Westminster Abbey — Sights within— Tombs without 72 LETTER X. St. Paul's— Curiosities — The Great Bell — Cost of the Cathedral 78 LETTER XI. The Sabbath in London— Dr. Croly's Church- City Road Chapel— Wksleyan Editors 86 5 6 CONTENTS. LETTER XII. PAOB. The British Museum — Sculpture Galleries — The Library 94 LETTEE XIII. The Thames — Eiver Sights — The Exchange — The Bridges — The Parks 104 LETTER XIV. Tunnel of the Thames — Manner of Building the Tunnel — Engi- neer Brunel and his efforts — First Opening of the Tunnel 113 LETTER XV. Twickenham — Richmond — Sydenham — Crystal Palace — John Bull AND Jonathan 122 LETTER XVI. London Tower — Historical Reminiscences- — Armor and Statuary — Queen Elizabeth's Armory — The Tower a History — Victims of it 131 LETTER XVII . Books — The Educational Exhibition— Qualifications of Teachers. 145 LETTER XVIII. Leaving London — The Necropolis — Winchester — ^Portsmouth — Walks about the City — Portchester Castle — A Legend 152 LETTER XIX. A Conversation — English Society — Pa.tent Medicines — English Civility — Reserve — A Peculiarity — A Popular Preacher 164 LETTER XX. Stability — Admiral Nelson — British Civil Law — De. Dodd — Legit- imacy 177 LETTER XXI. National Slowness and Inflexibility — Cousin Jonathan 188 LETTER XXII. English Prudence and Scrltulousness — Marriage in England — Freedom in England — Britain's Greatness — America and Ens- land 193 LETTER XXIII. Havre AND Paris — Switzerland 202 LETTER XXIV. Macon — Geneva— The Rhone — John Calvin — Rosseau and Voltaire 309 CONTENTS. 7 LETTER XXV. PAGE. Geneva Manufactures and Laws— A Conversation — Byron — "Ho- * TEL Gibbon " -216 LETTER XXVI. Lausanne, Basle — Hotel Accommodations 223 LETTER XXVII. Strasbourg— A Railway Ride— Royal Academy— Notre Dame— The Great Clock 228 LETTER XXVIII. Traveling — Insurance and RjUlways — Swiss Postal Regulations — Bill of Fare— The Bankers 238 LETTER XXIX. French Character— Suavity— Politeness and Depravity 248 LETTER XXX. French Society — A Contrast 254 LETTER XXXI. French Vivacity and Enthusiasm— Funerals— A Persevering Lover- Reverence FOR Napoleon. 258 LETTER XXXII. French Taste and Fickleness— The Madeleine— Royal Changes •• -266 LETTER XXXIII. French Government— The Empress— The style in which Protest- antism IS Tolerated— Louis Napoleon as President— The Hope for France 273 LETTER XXXIV. Westminster Normal Institution— Details respecting Wesleyan Schools- Training College— Annual Examination 284 LETTER XXXV. Return Voyage— Calais— Collins and Cunard Steamships— The Loss of the Arctic LETTERS FEOM EUROPE. You requested me to write a series of traveling letters. "Well, I may as well begin now. I reached New York city by the New York and Erie railroad. There was nothing noticeable on the way, except the diminished travel by this route from Dunkirk eastward. We had but two cars from Dunkirk — till we came within a short distance of this city — and they were more than neces- sary, as we only numbered about fifteen persons in each car. We were promised night-cars in the bill, but we saw nothing of them ; indeed, the whole arrangement was less comfortable than we are accustomed to meet with between Cincinnati and Cleveland. Although I have traveled not a little of late years, I know of no railroad over which I pass with so much comfort and sense of safety as the Little Miami and Columbus road. Better cars I have met with, but more accuracy in ar- rangement, more order in the company, more politeness in the conductors, I have not. Great credit, I opine, is due to Mr. C, the Superintendent, and to Mr. S., the General Ticket Agent at Cincinnati. Such men are of value to cities. GOING ABROAD. In preparing to travel in foreign lands, the first thing to be done is to obtain a passport. For this one must 10 LETTERS PEOM EUROPE. apply to the Department of State at Washington City. If the applicant be a native, the application must be accompanied with proof of his nativity, and if he bo not, with his naturalization papers, which the Depart-' ment will return with the passport. It must also be accompanied with a description of the person; thus, for example, "Eyes gray, nose straight, chin round, hair dark, mouth large, hight five feet five inches English measure, and age forty-three." According to our laws,' if an alien be naturalized, his children, who are minors, though born in a foreign land, are citizens when they come of age. If an individual is going no farther than England, his passport may be of no consequence to him; but if he intends visiting the continent, he will find it indispens- able. I am told the authorities abroad are very partic- ular at present, and the war which rages in Europe now accounts for this. It is difficult to obtain a passport of our foreign embassadors, as it is not easy, when a man is in a foreign country, to give satisfactory evidence of his citizenship. In visiting Europe take no sealed letters; this were a fraud on the post-office, and might subject you to a fine — take no American reprints; these would probably be taken from you. For my own part, my passport and my Bible is about all I care to take. Perhaps Shak- speare would not come amiss occasionally, but I have no English copy. Moreover, I need to employ all my spare time in forming my English tongue to French words. LIBRARIES. My object in going abroad, as you know, is to purchase a, library, with the handsome donation which Mr. William Sturgess has made to the Ohio Wesleyan University for that purpose. As there are many of your readers who LIBRARY CLASSIFICATION. 11 may go on a similar errand, suffer me to note down a little of the results of my reflection and experience as I go along. 1. The first thing to determine is the classification. There is a convenient one given in Brunei's Manual du Libraire. The Smithsonian Institute has, I learn, pub- lished a paper on this subject, though I have not seen it. We have agreed upon the following, which is more log- ical, though perhaps not more convenient, than any clas- sification we have met with : Civil Proper. Ecclesiastical. 'Ancient History. Modern History. Chronology. (_ Biography. American. English. Foreign. Physics. ' Natural Philosophy. Agriculture. Chemistry. Medicine. Geography. (^ Travels. 'Anatomy and Physiology. Zoology. Natural History .{ Botany. Proper. Mineralogy. [_ Geology. ^ ^ {Moral Philosophy. Mental Philosophy. Logic and Rhetoric. Educational. Religious. Politics and Polit- ical Economy. Jurisprudence. ^Arithmetic and Algebra. Pure. ^Geometry. ' Mechanics. Astronomy. Technics, Architecture. Mixed. i Military Tactics. Mechanical Arts. (^Engineering. 12"* LETTERS FROM EUROPE. f Drama, Epic. Poetry. i Miscellaneous. •' (^ Fiction. f Lexicons. Grammars. Classical Texts. Philology. w ;-> ^. 0) CI a s 'o l^ Q 1. ^ (Dictionaries and Encyclope- dias. Periodicals. Miscellaneous. Polygraphic. 2. The next thing, if your sum is limited, is to fix upon the amount you will spend in each department. Of course, the figures you make are only approximations. Much must be left to the discretion of the purchaser; but a guide is important to him, more especially if men of difi'erent tastes — as with every faculty — are to be sat- isfied. It may be interesting to the public, as well as to the generous donor, to know that we have assigned the largest amount to the "Religious." 3. The third thing is to determine upon the object — whether it be special or general. In buying for a col- lege, we should aim to procure rare and valuable works, rather than current literature. The latter can be pur- chased at any time; the former only to advantage in foreign markets. The use of a college library is differ- ent from the use of a family library. Gibbon's Rome, for example, is a useful book, and should be in the fam- ily library. It is not important that it should be in a public or college library. Turner's Anglo-Saxons may be less read, less useful in general ; but it is more important for a public library. If one goes to the library for Gib- bon, he is disappointed if he do not find it ; but the dis- appointment is not a serious one ; for he may find the PRECAUTIONS, 13 book, perhaps, in the first respectable house he enters. If, however, he go there for Turner's Anglo-Saxons, and do not find it, the disappointment is a severe one ; for he may search a county, and not obtain it. 4. It is important, and may preserve us from imposi- tion, to get the best works on Bibliography, before making purchases, to secure letters to librarians and pro- fessors in the difi"erent cities, and to make connections with reliable booksellers in each place. Any one going on an errand such as mine, will find it to his advantage to consult with Professor Jewitt, of the Smithsonian t? Institute, and Dr. Cogswell, of the Astor Library. 5. In the next place, it is well before starting to make out as perfect a classified list as possible; and for the convenience of purchasing, to have a separate list ar- ranged according to the markets. As a general thing, books are cheapest in the countries where they were first published. But old books — unless in English — are gen- erally found, I am told, in greater numbers, and at lower prices, in Paris than in any other market. No book that has been republished on this side of the water should be purchased on the other. I have, there- fore, procured a Trade Sale Catalogue, from which I can ascertain what works I need not import. This I take with me. Mr. Henry Stevens, of London, the Agent — I believe— of the Smithsonian Institute, has lately pub- lished a little book containing a well-selected catalogue of English books, which I would advise any of my friends who desire to purchase a good English library, to obtain. ASTOR LIBRARY. The Astor Library was founded by John Jacob Astor, of New York city, who bequeathed for its establishment and maintenance four hundred thousand dollars, in four annual installments, dating from his death, in 1848. 14 LETTERS FROM EUROPE. His will committed the management of the funds, and of the library, to ten individual trustees — among whom were Washington Irving, Fitz Green Halleck, and Joseph G. Cogswell. In 1849 the Trustees obtained from the Legislature an Act of Incorporation, and soon after were organized by electing Washington Irving President, and S. B. Ruggles Secretary. Mr. Cogswell was from the first designated as Superintendent of the Library. Of the sum bequeathed, $75,000 was to be devoted to the library building, $120,000 to the purchase of books, and the residue — $205,000 — after paying for the site of the building— $25,000— namely, $180,000, as a fund for maintaining and gradually increasing the Library, and to defray the necessary expenses of taking care of the same, and of the accommodation of persons consulting it. The site selected is on Lafayette Place. The amount paid for the building does not include the ex- pense of equipping it. The shelves alone cost $11,000; their running length is nearly thirteen thousand feet. Nearly all the $120,000 has been expended, and the Library now has over eighty thousand books upon its shelves. The Library is a brick building, of Byzantine archi- tecture, reposing on a lower story of brown stone, and ornamented with arched doors and windows, stone mold- ings and mullions, projecting cornice, corbals, and entab- lature. The main entrance is by a flight of thirty-six marble steps, leading to the second story, which is the main floor of the Library proper. This is one hundred feet long, sixty-four wide, fifty high ; lighted by ten win- dows in front, eight in rear, and a broad sky-light above, extending two-thirds the length of the room. From the side walls to the columns which support the roof, a series of alcoves, open in front and rear, fills up the space on each side, leaving corridors two and a half feet wide COGSWELL AND STURGESS. 15 along the walls. Each alcove has a light gallery eleven feet above the floor, and these galleries in front of the wall shelves aff"ord a continued corridor from end to end. The open area in the center is surrounded by a light iron railing. The Library is accessible to all, but the books are not removable. Dr. Cogswell, the Librarian, has been very kind to me, and has favored me with letters to several booksellers in the old world. I can not close this letter without renewing my ac- knowledgments to Mr. Sturgess, for whom I trust the prayers of the Church will not cease to be offered. His liberality and catholicity will speak powerfully to pos- terity. The brethren of the Book Concern are well, and have laid me under obligations by their attentions. 16 LETTERS FROM EUROPE. I HAVE made some good purchases in New York. In buying libraries in Europe, Dr. Cogswell necessarily bought duplicates of many books. I was fortunate enough to obtain, at the Astor Library, some of them, and at rates far below what they could be purchased for in Europe. Among the books thus obtained are the fol- lowing : Cauchy Exercises de Mathematiques. D'Alembert Opuscules Mathematiques. D'Alembert Systeme du Monde. D'Alembert Traite' d' Equilibre et du Mouvement des Fluides. D'Alembert Reflexions sur la cause des vents. D'Alembert Recherches sur la precession des Equi- nosces. Bailly Histoire d' Astronomic Moderne. Pontecoulant Systeme du Monde. Freytag's Arabic Lexicon. La Croix Traite d' Cakul. Differential. Individuals residing in cities have great advantages for the purchase of books. By watching book-stalls and auctions, old and valuable books may sometimes be pur- chased for a song. Dr. Cogswell sent a duplicate copy of an arithmetic which was published before the Reforma- tion, to an auction in this city, where it was sold for six cents. He has since been offered one hundred francs, by a bookseller of Paris, for the other copy. Such works as D R . F S T E R . 17 this, however, are prized not according to their intrinsic value, but their scarcity. I have succeeded in ascertain- ing the lowest cash price of this market for all the works I want; this will prevent me from buying any work abroad that I can obtain at the same price at home. Books of current literature, like every thing else, are growing dearer. Pardon me for saying so much about books. You know how natural it is for us to suppose that what is of interest to us, is likewise interesting to every body else in the world. On the morning of last Sabbath I had the privilege of preaching in the Pacific-Street Church, Brooklyn. Dr. Foster, the pastor, was detained from church by the affliction of his family. In the afternoon I heard a neat, evangelical, impressive discourse on salvation by faith, from Rev. Dr. W., in South Second-Street Church, Wil- liamsburg, of which our worthy brother Miley, late of the Ohio conference, is pastor. In the evening I at- tended the Pacific-Street Church, Brooklyn, where I ex- pected to preach at that time, but Providence sent Dr. T., a professor of the Wesleyan University, to my relief. He preached on the gain of godliness a well-composed, well-argued, but exquisitely-speculative discourse. Its speculations were, however, with one exception, strictly within the limits of Wesleyan orthodoxy, so at least thought I. On Tuesday morning the youngest child of our friend Foster deceased; it was a babe, only two weeks old. Mark, I do not say only a babe, for the life of a rational immortal spirit opens many "seals,'' and its death opens the gates of heaven. The cholera seems to be increasing in this city, but I trust we have passed the crisis of the season, and shall soon pass the crisis of the sickness. 2 18 LETTERS EROM EUROPE. UNEXPECTED HOSPITALITY. On Monday evening, a gentleman residing on Clinton- street, Brooklyn, who is connected with the Pacific-Street Church, called upon me and literally captured me, trans- ferring me and my baggage, by carriage and steamboat, to his beautiful home, there to spend my time during the residue of my sojourn in this city. My reception at his hearth was as cordial as his own greeting. Such kind- ness is an oasis in the desert of life. Hospitality and attention may be expected from relatives and acquaint- ances, and especially when we are abroad on a public mis- sion in which they, as well as we, are interested; but when it comes from entire strangers, and unanticipated, it is noteworthy, and seems to indicate a religious spirit ingrafted upon a stock of native liberality — it is worthy to entertain angels. My host was once a Methodist preacher, but his health failing he was compelled to enter upon business, which God seems to have prospered. His prosperity, instead of injuring, appears to have blessed his family, all of whom, save one, are connected with the Church. May God convert that one ! My friend's moth- • er — a guest of his family — is a widow, who mingles with profound grief profound resignation, and finds increasing support with increasing dependence. His daughter is a sweet little girl, whose charming voice floats over the me- lodeon's ''sea of solemn tones" at the hour of evening prayer. The garden of mine host blooms with perpetual roses, ingrafted on native sweet-briers, and it is vocal with the notes of the canary and the linnet, the sky-lark and the mourning dove. Come, north wind, and come thou south, ever blow upon this garden, that the spices thereof may flow out. THE BALTIC. This is one of the best steamships of the Collins line. She is to sail July 22d, and I have secured a passage in AN infant's burial. 19 her, the price of which is a hundred and thirty dollars. Had I got off earlier I should have preferred a sail ves- sel, as being more comfortable, and equally safe, perhaps more so. For the benefit of those of my friends in the west who intend to visit Europe, allow me to say, that ap- plication for a passage in a steamer should be secured weeks beforehand. Although I applied about a week be- fore the day of sailing, I was under the necessity of taking a berth in the forward saloon, which is not quite so comfortable as the other, more especially if the passage be a rough one. THE FUNERAL. One afternoon, during my stay in Brooklyn, I received an invitation to attend the funeral of our friend Foster's child. The corpse lay in a beautiful coffin, which was placed on a marble table crowned with roses. A few friends had collected, without special invitation, to sym- pathize with the family. Cicero says, that since life, like the fruits of the earth, must be gathered, there is some- thing beautiful in the death of an old and good man, who is gathered to his fathers like as a shock of corn, fully ripe, in its season. I have thought there was something beautiful also in the death of an infant, which is plucked like a bud before it is faded or worm-eaten, and before its fragrance is wasted, to adorn and perfume the bosom of its owner. To those, however, who are connected with the dying by ties of consanguinity and affection, death is always mournful. Thanks be to the Gospel, which moderates our grief and sanctifies our sorrows ! The heathen mother, when her child dies, tears her hair, and rends the heavens with her lamentations, realizing that terrible description of Rachel wailing and refusing to be comforted, because her children are not. The Gospel tells us the child sleepeth, and shall wake again in 20 LETTERS FROM EUROPE, the resurrection at the last day. If mother and child were traveling the same route, though in diflFerent vehi- cles, the former would not be distressed if the latter, by a more speedy transit, reached the place of destination first. She would be comforted with the reflection that she would soon overtake it. More particularly would she check the rising sigh, if she knew that the child would be in good hands. I was greatly pleased with a little incident that a mother gave me the other day. A child lay dying. Feeling unusual sensations, she says, "Mamma, what is the matter with me?" Mother. "My child, you are dying." Child. "Well, mamma, what is dying?" Mother. ''To you, dear child, it is going to heaven," Child. "Where is heaven ?" Mother. "It is where God is, and Christ, and the Holy Grhost, and the angels, and the good men made perfect." Child. "But, mamma, I am not acquainted with any one of those, and I do not like to go alone; won't you go with me?" Mother. "0, Mary, I can not, God has called you only, not me, now." Turning to the father she asked the same question. Then piteously appealing to each of her brothers and sis- ters, she repeated the same interrogatory, and received the same response. She then fell into a gentle slumber, from which she awoke in a transport of joy, saying, "You need not go to heaven with me, I can go alone. I have been there, and grandmamma is there, and grand- papa is there, and aunt Martha;" and with a sweet smile, and a countenance bright as with the glory of opening heaven, looking upward and whispering, "Yes, I am coming," she passed away. A mother, however, would not have her child pass GREENWOOD CEMETERY. 21 away, even into heaven. She would not have the new fountain of aflfection opened in her heart sealed up, nor need she. I like the philosophy of the father who count- ed his graves in numbering his family — so many on earth, so many in heaven; and they in heaven may think of us, and love us. That was a pretty illustration which father Collins was accustomed to relate. A sea captain departed on a long voyage shortly after his wife gave birth to a son. As the son grew up he learned that he had a father; he saw his portrait, he heard his character de- scribed, he grew familiar with it, he felt aflfection spring- ing up in his heart for his absent parent; he traced him from port to port, and watched and longed for his return. When his father's vessel came into port he was the first to board her, and stepping up to the captain he seizes him by the hand, and says, "I am your son; come with me, and I will show you where mother is." May not such scenes occur in the harbor of heaven? Greenwood is the most beautiful cemetery in this re- gion. Lovely by natui'e, it has been greatly improved by art. We met several funeral processions on our way out and back. There are now about thirty interments a day in these grounds alone. As a funeral procession enters the gate, the bell tolls ten times. It is supposed that if it tolled ten minutes for every death that occurs in the city, it would not cease during the twenty-four hours. At this time it could not, I suppose, within the day, strike more than seven times for each death. The wicked and the good alike desire to render the place of the de- parted beautiful, and thus to diminish the natural dread of the grave. Hence, where wealth and taste are found, the cemetery is always a beautiful spot. Here we have monuments of all forms and styles. Many of them are doubtless the result of a misguided judgment and morbid afifection. 22 LETTERS FROM EUROPE. THE PICNIC. In the midst of death we are in life. On the day after the funeral, the Sabbath school of the Pacific-Street Church had its annual picnic. They proceeded by boat to Fort Hamilton. There, in a grove, were a few seats arranged as on a camp-ground, near by were a few barrels of water, and some temporary tables. All around were the children, some on swings, some on see-saws, some re- posing after exhaustion, some catching girls, others catch- ing lizards, some gathering flowers, others gathering kisses, some looking on, and others collecting around a brass band employed to play "Katy Darling," etc. It was a scene of enjoyment, marred only by a little rivalry among the boys, which, on one occasion, led to a show of fight — that was, however, soon dissipated — and an acci- dent or two of no serious consequence. I arrived on the ground after dinner, and left before tea, and thei*efore just saw what a New York picnic is. Besides all that I have told you, it was to me lemonade, mulberry pie, bread and butter, etc., all with a good relish, and a pleas- ant conversation. This affair cost from $150 to $200. The political economist might find fault with it, but I am inclined to think it may be a remunerative expenditure. Such occasions bring old and young, grave and gay, to- gether, and very frequently promote health, harmony, and happiness. They should, however, be under discreet management, and there should be put upon the bill of fare a suitable intellectual dish, and an invocation of the Divine blessing. I do not intimate that these things were want- ing on this occasion ; I was present only part of the time. The Church here — I mean our Church — is in stahi quo. There is here, as every-where, a great want of zeal, a consciousness of power, with an impression that it is not properly developed and applied — a conviction that a SIGNSOFTHETIMES. 28 change is coming over us, and an inquiry, What is to be? There is a growing tendency to Congregationalism, seen in the pewing of churches, the preliminary arrangements of appointments between pastors and people, the call on the part of both for an extension of the term of the preacher's service, etc. From many hearts goes up the prayer, *' Lord, what wilt thou have me to do?" Many, too, are praying that God would send forth laborers into his immense harvest that is already ripe. The missionary work demands an increase of laborers. Where are the moral heroes among us ? 24 LETTERS FROM EUROPE. ITrHEN I agreed to -write you a few letters, I determ- ''^ ined to pen the little things, for the great ones have often been written. Among the small things comes the money. The Englishman says, "With a pound in my mouth I can go where I please;" but it is not always safe to carry the pound in the mouth. The most convenient mode of carrying money for traveling, is the following: Deposit in the hands of a friend, in whom you may con- fide, the sum you wish to expend, and get him to procure you a letter of credit from some banker who has corre- spondence in Europe. It may be in such a form as this : ITew York, July, 1854. Messrs. A. ^ B., London — Dear Sirs, — We hereby open a credit on account of C. D., Esq., for £1,000, say a thousand pounds ster- ling, to be used by him for traveling expenses, and for your reim- bursement vre -^ill dravr on E.